Skip to main content

Full text of "Ordnance gazetteer of Scotland : a survey of Scottish topography, statistical, biographical, and historical"

See other formats 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


O  11 D  N  A  iN  C  E 


GAZETTEER    OF    SCOTLAND: 


A  SURVEY  OF  SCOTTISH  TOPOGliAFHY, 


Statistical,  §iagntpTrir;tl,  iiiiiJ  fjistaiicil 


EDITED  BY 


FRANCIS   H.   GROOME, 

A.SSISTANT    KDITOK    OF    '  Til  K    CI.OBE    ENCYf'LOI'.Eni.V.  ' 


rvN^^s^^^^, 


VOLUME    II. 


E  D  I N  B  U  E  G II : 

THOMAS     C.     JACK,     GRANGE     PUBLISHING     WORKS. 

LONDON:    4.^    LUDGATE   HILL. 

GLASGOW:    48    GORDON    STREET.       ABERDEEN      26    BROAD    STREET. 

18  8  4. 


V.-?. 


742145 


Ardviaick  Castle,  Suthcrlandt-liirt;. 


l.iiili  Arkai-f,  Iiiveiiic'ss-.sliiie. 


IX 


Cndgluill  Hijuse,  Ceres,  t.fufchiie. 


Ciaigicvar  Castle,  Loocliel-Cushnie,  Aberd-unshiru. 


(lid  iMiin-wbin  Custle,  liutlierhuidsliiie. 


Duiii'ubiii  Castle,  Siitlimlaiidshlre. 


XI 


Dunottar  Castle,  Kiucaidiue.^htre,  in  the  lith  eeutury.         Kn.piii  Slezer's  TUeatruia  Scot(it  (lOl'y). 


Dimkuld,  Pcrlhshiie,  in  Uie  17tli  Leiitury.     From  Slezers  TutiUrum  itodtt  (lo'JJ). 


XII 


Lj(f^^^ 


S^^^£.i^i^®*a«!S5^ 


*fS-5s^>-^ 


Fort  Aui^ustus,  Invrness- shire. 


■<ya.£(^aN  /J 


frciidraught  lluuse,  /Vbunicuiishiiu,  wiUi  thu  luiiis  of  the  old  C'astlu 


XIII 


Sculptured  Front  of  Old  College,  Glasgow  (founded  in  1450). 


Piirt  of  the  (iiiadniuglc,  Old  College,  (Jlasgow. 


XIV 


nriiP'! 


-  ' •-  ■ t  B 


Gordon  Castle,  Monysliire.     From  Nattfcs' Scotia  i)«/)(0(«. 


Iiivertic.ss  at  tlic  cmi  of  tlio  ITtli  cMiliiry.     I'roiii  SlczcrV  Tlii:«ti-am  Si-oIki  (ic.'.t:}). 


XV 


Perth  ill  the  17ih  uoiituiy.     From  Slezei's  T/uatrum  Scout  (1693). 


I'.us.T  ut  lviiliooni:ikie,  '  crths  liic,  iii  l.i.^l  vuiilu.y. 


XVI 


ORDNANCE    GAZE 


^FfTBARTHOLOMEW    EDINBURGH 


c^-> 


r 


{  -,  r^-n    <^    ^  7  ^  >^-^  i 


^, 


.'^^^ 


• 


D 


Biui-'^.tU^lyWSl, 


En^^.-»ituih,irjrh 


CORWAR 

Corwar,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Colraonell 
parish,  S  AjTshire,  3^  miles  ESE  of  Banhill  station. 

See  COLMONFXL. 

Cor3miulzie.     See  CoRRiEsniiziE. 

Coryvreckan.     See  Cokkievrechan 

Coshieville,  a  place,  with  an  inn,  in  Strath  Appin, 
Dull  parish,  Perthshire,  5i  miles  W  by  N  of  Aberfeldy, 
on  a  road  leading  northward  to  Tummel  Bridge,  over  a 
pass  1262  feet  high. 

Cessans.     See  Glamis. 

Costa,  a  headland  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
mainland  of  Orkney,  on  the  mutual  border  of  Evie  and 
fUrsay  parishes.  Projecting  to  a  point  4  miles  EXE  of 
the  Brough  of  Birsay,  it  comprises  a  hill  478  feet  high, 
and  presents  to  the  ocean  a  bold  precipitous  cliff.  See 
Evie. 

Costerton  House.     See  Crichtox. 

Cotbum,  a  hill  (559  feet)  on  the  i_utual  border  of 
Turriff  and  ilonquhitter  parishes,  N  Aberdeenshire,  i^ 
miles  NE  of  the  town  of  Turriff. 

Cotehill,  a  loch,  measuring  1 J  by  1  furlong,  in  Slains 
parish,  E  Aberdeenshire,  1  mile  W  by  X  of  the  church. 

Cothal,  a  place  with  factories  of  tweed  and  woollen 
cloth  in  Fin  tray  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Don,  7k  miles  XNW  of  Aberdeen,  and  2|  NXW 
of  Dyce  Jimction.  The  factories  were  established  in 
1798,  and  are  famous  for  both  the  quantity  and  the 
quality  of  the  tweeds  which  they  turn  out. 

Cotiiiemuir.     See  Keig. 

Cotton,  a  village  in  Auchindoir  and  Kearn  parish,  W 
Aberdeenshire,  7  furlongs  ESE  of  Rhynie. 

Coul,  a  mansion  in  Contin  parish,  SE  Ross-shire,  a 
little  NE  of  the  parish  chm'ch.  Built  in  1821,  it 
is  a  handsome  edifice,  with  finely-wooded  policies ;  its 
owner.  Sir  Arth\ir-Geo. -Ramsay  Mackenzie,  eleventh 
Bart,  since  1673  (b.  1865;  sue.  1873),  holds  43,189 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £5215  per  annuni 

Coul,  a  mansion  in  the  parish  and  1  mile  EXE  of  the 
station  of  Auchterarder,  SE  Perthshire. 

Coulatt,  a  loch  on  the  mutual  border  of  Knockando 
and  Dallas  parishes,  Elginshire,  4  mUes  "W  by  X  of 
Knockando  church.  Lying  1100  feet  above  sea-level, 
it  measures  li  by  1  furlong,  and  sends  off  the  Burn 
of  Coulatt,  flowing  6^  miles  E  and  SSE  to  the  Spey,  7 
furlongs  SSE  of  the  said  church. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  85, 
1876. 

Coull,  a  coUier  hamlet  in  Markinch  parish,  Fife,  If 
mile  XW  of  Markinch  town. 

Coull,  a  parish  of  S  Aberdeenshire,  whose  church 
stands  3;^  miles  XX W  of  Aboj-ne  station,  this  being  32i 
miles  W  by  S  of  Aberdeen.  It  is  bounded  X  by  Leochel- 
Cushnie,  E  by  Lumphanan,  S  by  Aboyne,  W  by  Logie- 
Coldstone  and  Tarland-Migvie.  Irregidar  in  outline,  it 
has  an  utmost  length  from  XXE  to  SSW  of  5f  miles,  a 
varjdng  breadth  of  5|  furlongs  and  4|  miles,  and  an  area 
of  9053  acres.  The  drainage  is  carried  mainly  to  the 
Dee,  but  partly  also  to  the  Don — by  the  Bum  of  Tarland 
to  the  former,  and  to  the  latter  by  the  Bum  of  Corse. 
In  the  extreme  SE  the  surface  sinks  to  410  feet  above 
sea-level,  thence  rising  westward  to  Scar  Hill  of  Tilly- 
duke  (984  feet),  and  northward  to  *Mortlich  (1248), 
Leadhlich  (1278),  *Crag  (1563),  and  Loanhead  (994), 
where  asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  culminate  on 
the  confines  of  the  parish.  The  rocks  are  all  of  primary 
formation,  the  eastern  hills  consisting  chiefly  of  reddish, 
the  western  of  grepsh,  granite  ;  and  the  soils  vary  from 
gravel-mixed  clay  to  loam  and  moorish  uplands.  A 
'  Druidical '  circle  on  Tomnaverie,  a  number  of  small 
cairns  upon  Corse  Hill,  and  ti-aces  of  the  Terry  Chapel 
on  Xewton  of  Corse  make  up  the  antiquities,  with  the 
ruined  castles  of  Corse  and  Coull.  The  latter  at  the 
opening  of  the  13th  century  was  the  seat  of  the  great 
Durward  family,  of  whom  it  was  said  that,  a  Durward 
dying,  the  church  bell  of  Coull  tolled  of  its  o^vn  accord. 
A  stately  pile,  it  measured  some  50  yards  square,  and 
had  five  turrets  and  four  hexagonal  towers.  Corse  Castle 
bears  date  1581,  and,  though  long  roofless,  is  compara- 
tively entire.  The  lands  of  Corse,  forming  part  of  the 
barony  of  Coull  and  O'Xeil,  were  in  1476  bestowed  on 
19 


COUPAR-ANGUS 

Patrick  Forbes,  armour-bearer  to  James  III. ,  and  youngest 
son  of  the  second  Lord  Forbes.  Among  his  descendants 
were  Patrick  Forbes  (1564-1635),  Bishop  of  Aberdeen 
from  1618  ;  and  his  son,  John  Forbes  (1593-1648),  the 
scholar  and  Episcopalian  confessor,  whose  estate  was 
repeatedly  ravaged  by  the  famous  freebooter  Gilderoy. 
The  bishop's  male  line  failing  with  his  grandchildren, 
Corse  passed  to  the  Forbeses  of  Craigievar,  and  now  is 
held  by  the  late  Sir  John  Forbes'  second  son,  James 
Ochoncar  Forbes,  Esq.  (b.  1837  ;  sue.  1846),  who  owns 
1946  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1679  per  annum.  His 
modem  mansion,  near  the  old  castle,  is  3^  miles  NW 
of  Lumphanan  station,  and  4J  NE  of  CouU  church. 
Two  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  2  others  holding  between  £100  and  £500, 
and  1  between  £50  and  £100.  In  the  presbytery  of 
Kincardine  O'Xeil  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  CouU  has 
since  1621  given  off  the  Corse  di\-ision  quoad  sacra  to 
Leochel-Cushnie  ;  the  living  is  worth  £202.  The  church 
(1792  ;  restored  1876  ;  220  sittings)  has  a  fine-toned  bell 
that  was  cast  in  Holland  in  1644.  A  public  school,  with 
accommodation  for  103  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  83,  and  a  grant  of  £79,  12s.  6d.  Valua- 
tion (1881)  £4006,  15s.  7d.  Pop.  (1801)  679,  (1831) 
767,  (1851)  734,  (1871)  824,  (1881)  783.— Ord  Sur.,  sh. 
76,  1S74. 

Coull,  Braes  of.     See  Lintrathex. 

CouUin.     See  Cuchullix. 

Coulmony  House.     See  Ardclach. 

Coulport,  a  hamlet  on  the  W  side  of  Roseneath  parish, 
Dumbartonshire,  on  Loch  Long,  4  miles  N  by  W  of 
Cove.  It  maintains  a  feiry  across  Loch  Long  to  Arden- 
tinny,  and  has  a  new  pier,  erected  in  1880,  when  also  seve- 
ral acres  were  laid  out  for  feuing  purposes.  The  Kibble 
Crystal  Palace,  in  the  Glasgow  Botanic  Gardens,  was 
removed  from  Coulport  in  1872. 

Coulter,  a  loch  in  the  S  of  St  Ninians  parish,  Stirling- 
shire, near  the  foot  of  the  Lennox  Hills,  6;^  miles  SSW 
of  Stirling.  "With  an  utmost  length  and  width  of  5  and 
3  furlongs,  it  is  shallow  towards  the  "W,  but  very  deep 
to  the  NE  ;  contains  perch  and  pike  ;  and  sends  off  its 
superfluence  by  Auchenhowie  Bum  to  the  Carron.  Dur- 
ing the  great  earthquake  of  Lisbon  (1735)  it  was  vio- 
lently agitated,  and  sank  about  10  or  12  feet. — O/d. 
Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

Coulter,  Lanarkshire.     See  Culter. 

Coultra.     See  Balmerixo. 

Countesswells,  an  estate,  with  an  old  mansion,  in 
Peterculter  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  4f  miles  WSW  of 
Aberdeen.  Its  owner,  ilajor  And.  GammeU  of  Drum- 
tochty  Castle,  holds  5208  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£5470  per  annum.  There  are  a  post  oflBce  of  Countess- 
wells under  Aberdeen  and  a  public  school. 

Coupar-Angus,  a  to^^m  and  a  parish  partly  in  Forfar, 
but  mainly  in  Perth,  shire.  The  town  stands  in  the 
centre  of  Strathmore,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Isla,  on  a 
small  tributary  of  that  river,  4J  miles  SE  of  I31air- 
gowrie,  12|  XE  by  X  of  Perth,  and  15  XW  of  Dundee  ; 
whilst  its  station,  the  junction  for  Blairgowrie,  on  the 
Scottish  Midland  section  of  the  Caledonian,  is  15|  miles 
from  Perth,  22  from  Dimdee,  62f  N  by  W  of  Edinburgh, 
and  79^  XE  of  Glasgow.  The  part  of  it  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  rivulet  is  in  Angus  or  Forfarshire  ;  and,  being 
the  older  portion,  occasioned  the  whole  to  be  called 
Coupar-Angus.  Dating  from  a  remote  antiquity,  the 
town  was  long  a  time-worn,  decayed,  and  stagnant  place, 
but  within  recent  years  has  undergone  great  revival  and 
improvement,  and  become  a  centre  of  much  traffic  and  a 
seat  of  considerable  trade.  It  is  governed  by  nine  police 
commissioners,  under  selected  sections  of  the  general 
police  and  improvement  act  of  Scotland,  adopted  in  July 
1871  ;  and  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  departments,  branches  of 
the  Bank  of  Scotland,  the  Union  Bank,  and  the  Xational 
Bank,  a  local  savings'  bank,  five  jirincipal  inns,  a  gas 
company,  a  town-house  with  a  steeple,  a  literary  associa- 
tion, masonic  and  good  templar  lodges,  a  Bible  society,  a 
young  men's  Christian  association,  bowling  and  curling 
clubs,  and  a  volunteer  corps.     In  1874  a  much-needed 

2S9 


COUR 

water  supply  was  iutroJuccJ,  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £4000, 
from  springs  on  the  Pitcur  estate,  Avhich  are  guided  to 
a  reservoir  close  to  the  Dundee  turnpike,  containing 
55,000  gallons.  There  are  three  linen- works,  a  tannery, 
farina  works,  a  brewery,  and  steam  saw-mills.  A  grain 
market  is  held  on  Thursday,  and  cattle  markets  fall  on 
the  third  Thursday  of  every  month  but  June,  August, 
September,  and  October.  The  Queen  has  driven  thrice 
through  Coupar- Angus,  on  11  Sept.  and  1  Oct.  1S44, 
and  31  Aug.  1S50.  Henry  Guthrie  (1600-76),  Bishop 
of  Dunkcld,  was  a  native.  A  Roman  camp  here,  imme- 
diately E  of  the  churchyard,  is  supposed  to  have  been 
formed  either  by  Agricola  or  LoUius  Urbicus,  and  seems 
to  have  been  a  square  of  1200  feet,  with  two  strong 
ramparts  and  wide  ditches  ;  but  now  is  represented  only 
by  remains  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  ramparts.  In 
1164  King  Malcolm  the  ilaiden  founded  the  Cistercian 
abbey  of  St  Mary's  within  the  area  of  this  Roman  camp. 
A  large  and  stately  structure,  richly  endowed  by  several 
of  the  Scottish  kings  and  by  the  Hays  of  Errol,  it  passed 
at  the  dissolution  to  the  Balmerino  family.  An  ivy- 
clad  fragment,  in  the  SW  corner  of  the  churchyard,  is 
all  that  is  left  of  it,  a  beautiful  arch  having  been 
demolished  in  17S0  to  furnish  material  for  the  parish 
church.  This,  dating  originally  from  1681,  was  in  great 
measure  reconstructed  in  1780,  and  thoroughly  rebuilt 
in  1859.  Other  churches  are  the  Free,  U.P.  (1790), 
Evangelical  Union  (1789),  Original  Secession  (1826), 
and  Episcopal  (1847).  A  new  one-story  public  school, 
erected  (1876-77)  at  a  cost  of  £2700,  with  accommoda- 
tion for  502  children,  had  in  1880  an  average  attendance 
of  299,  and  a  grant  of  £286,  18s.  6d.  Pop.  (1793)  1604, 
(1841) 1868,  (1861)  1943,  (1871)  2149,  (1881) 1959. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  of  Arthur- 
stone,  Balbrogie,  and  AVashington,  is  bounded  N  by 
Alyth,  NE  by  Meigle,  SE  by  Meigle  and  Kettins,  S  by 
Cargill,  and  NW  by  Caputh,  Blairgowrie,  and  Bendochy. 
Its  greatest  length,  from  NE  to  SW,  is  6  miles ;  its 
lireadth  varies  between  5  furlongs  and  2|  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  4769|  acres,  of  which  184  are  in  Forfarshire,  and 
70^  are  water.  The  Lsla,  winding  lOg  miles  '  in  many 
a  loop  and  link,'  roughly  traces  all  the  northern  and 
north-western  border ;  along  it  lies  a  considerable  ex- 
tent of  haugh-land,  protected  by  embankments,  7  feet 
high,  from  inundations  by  the  river.  The  rest  of  the 
area  mainly  consists  of  the  level  grounds  of  Strathmore, 
but  is  bisected  from  NE  to  SW  by  a  ridge,  along  which 
runs  the  great  highway  from  Perth  to  Aberdeen,  and 
which  commands  a  splendid  view  of  the  Sidlaw  Hills 
along  the  one  side  of  the  strath,  and  of  the  Grampian 
ilountains  on  the  other.  In  the  extreme  SW  the  sur- 
face sinks  to  100  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to 
224  near  Keithick,  172  at  Kemphill,  210  at  Easter  Den- 
head,  and  208  near  Arthurbank.  The  formation  is  Old 
Red  sandstone  ;  and  the  soil  is  mainly  a  good  sandy 
loam.  Mansions  are  Balgersho  House,  Keithick  House, 
lsla  Park,  Balbrogie,  Arthurstone,  Denliead,  Kinloch, 
and  Bankhead  ;  and  6  proprietors  hold  'each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  15  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  14  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  45  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Giving  olf  a  portion  quoad  sacra  to  Meigle, 
Coupar-Angus  is  in  the  j)resbytery  of  Jleigle  and  synod 
of  Angus  and  Mearns ;  the  living  is  worth  £442.  Valua- 
tion (1882)  £16,297,  14s.  2d.,  of  which  £1844,  16s.  Id. 
was  for  the  Forfarshire  section.  Pop.  of  civil  parish 
(1801)  2416,  (1831 ) 2615, (1861) 2929, (1871) 3055, (1881) 
2819,  of  whom  265  were  in  Forfarshire  ;  of  q.  s.  parish 
(1871)  2797,  (18S1)  2i,i&.—0rdSur.,  shs.  48,  56,  1868. 
See  the  Rev.  C.  Rogers'  and  Major-Gen.  A.  S.  Allan's 
licntal  Look  and  Jli^torical  Notices  of  the  Abbey  of 
Coupar-Aiifjus  {2  vols.,  Grampian  Club,  1879-80). 

Cour,  a  mansion  in  Saddell  parish,  Kintyre,  Argyll- 
shire,  on  Kilbrannan  Sound,  7i  miles  N  by  E  of  Carra- 
dale. 

Courance,  a  hamlet  in  Kirkmichael  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, 9  miles  NW  of  Lockerbie,  under  wliich  it  has  a 
post  office.  Courance  House  is  the  seat  of  John  Seton- 
Wightman,  Esq.  (b.  1846  ;  sue.  1879),  who  owns  2750 
aiTes  in  the  .shire,  valued  at  £1705  i)er  annum. 
290 


COVESEA 

Courthill.     See  Lanoside. 

Cousland,  a  village  in  Cranston  parish,  Edinburgh- 
shire, ;!^  miles  ENE  of  Dalkeith,  under  which  it  has  a 
post  office.  It  was  burned  by  the  Protector  Somerset  in 
1547,  at  the  time  of  the  battle  of  Pinkie.  A  chapelry 
of  Cousland  was  annexed  to  Cranston  parish  about  the 
era  of  the  Reformation  ;  its  chapel  stood  on  the  SW 
side  of  the  village,  and  has  left  some  remains. 

Couston.     See  Bathgate. 

Couthally.     See  Cowtiially. 

Couttie,  a  hamlet  in  Bendochy  parish,  E  Perthshire, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  lsla,  1  mile  NW  of  Coupar- 
Angus. 

Cove,  a  fishing  village  in  Nigg  parish,  Kincardineshire, 
with  a  station  on  the  Caledonian  railway,  4f  miles  S  by 
E  of  Aberdeen,  under  which  it  lias  a  post  office.  At 
it  are  St  Mary's  Episcopal  church  (1868),  a  public  and 
an  Episcopal  school,  an  hotel,  and  a  harbour,  which, 
mainly  natural,  or  very  slightly  improved  by  art,  serves 
often  as  a  place  of  refuge  to  boats  in  high  north-easterly 
winds.  The  fishermen  engage  in  various  kinds  of  fishery, 
and  have  considerable  reputation  for  the  drying  and 
smoking  of  haddocks.  A  cave  enters  from  the  beach  in 
the  vicinity,  and  probably  gave  name  to  the  village. 
Pop.  (1861)  385,  (1871)  450,  (1881)  550. 

Cove,  a  charming  watering-place  in  Roseneath  parish, 
Dumbartonshire,  to  the  right  or  E  of  the  entrance  to 
Loch  Long,  IJ  mile  WNW  of  Kilcreggan,  and  6  miles 
by  water  WNW  of  Greenock.  Of  modern  growth,  and 
conjoined  as  a  police  burgh  with  Kilcreggan,  it  comprises 
a  number  of  neat  villas  and  cottages.  At  it  are  a  post 
office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph 
departments,  a  steamboat  pier,  and  Craigrownie  quoad 
sacra  church.     See  Kilcreggan  and  Craigrownie. 

Cove,  a  fishing  hamlet  in  Cockburnspath  parish, 
Berwickshire,  3  furlongs  E  of  Cockburnspath  station. 
Its  harbour,  3  furlongs  further  to  the  eastward,  is  ap- 
proached through  a  sloping  tunnel,  which,  hewn  out  of 
soft  rock,  is  65  yards  long,  and  just  wide  enough  to 
admit  a  horse  and  cart ;  it  has  a  pier  for  ii.sliing-boats  on 
a  little  bay,  surrounded  by  cliffs  100  to  200  feet  in 
height.  The  hamlet,  consisting  of  little  more  than  a 
score  of  one-story  cottages,  had  a  fishing  population  of 
21,  of  whom  no  fewer  than  11  perished,  within  -h  mile 
of  home,  in  the  disastrous  gale  of  14  Oct.  1881. 

Cove,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kirkpatrick- 
Fleming  parish,  Dumfriesshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Kirtle 
Water,  1  mile  W  of  Kirkpatrick  station. 

Cove.     See  Ulva  and  CAOLisroitT. 

Cove-a-Chiaran.     See  Campbeltown. 

Covesea  (j)Opularly  Causca),  a  little  village  on  the 
coast  of  Di"ainie  parish,  Elginshire,  5J  miles  NNW  of 
Elgin,  and  3^  W  of  Lossiemouth.  The  shore  here  is 
rocky,  precipitous,  and  strikingly  picturesque.  In  one 
place  a  gently  sloping  road  leads  through  a  natural  arch, 
with  stately  pillars,  to  a  stretch  of  fine  natural  meadow  on 
the  beach,  shut  in  to  the  landward  by  smooth  and  mural 
Old  Red  sandstone  cliffs,  GO  to  100  feet  high  ;  elsewhere 
are  caves,  fissures,  arches,  stacks,  and  fantastic  forms  of 
rock,  various  and  romantic  as  the  ruins  of  a  vast  city, 
and  far  too  numerous  to  be  appreciablj'  damaged  Ibr 
ages  to  come  by  either  the  elements  or  the  hand  of  man. 
Two  pecidiarly  interesting  objects  are  an  isolated  rock, 
which,  looking  like  an  inverted  pyramid,  is  60  feet  high, 
30  across  the  top,  but  only  8  aci'oss  the  base ;  and  the 
Laird's  Stable,  a  cavern,  which,  once  the  abode  of  a 
hermit,  was  used  as  a  stable  by  Sir  Robert  Gordon  of 
Gordon.stown  during  the  '45.  In  another  cave,  near 
llopeman,  have  been  found  a  flint  arrow-head,  bones  of 
tlic  beaver  and  the  crane,  and  other  traces  of  prehistoric 
occui)ancy ;  and  the  roof  of  a  third  is  sculptured  with 
figures  of  the  half-moon,  sceptre,  fish,  and  suchlike 
symbols  of  ancient  Celtic  art.  A  reef  or  chain  of  skerries, 
extending  parallel  to  the  coast,  about  J  mile  from  the 
shore,  was  the  scene  of  many  shijiwrecks ;  but  since 
1846  it  has  been  crowned  with  a  lighthouse,  built  at  a 
cost  of  £11,514,  and  showing  a  revolving  light,  visible 
at  the  distance  of  I85  nautical  miles.  The  light  a]>])ears 
in  its  brightest  state  once  every  minute,  and,  from  W  by 


COVINGTON 


COWPITS 


N  i  N  to  SE  by  E  ^  E,  it  is  of  the  natural  appearance  ; 
but  from  SE  by  E  ^  E  to  SE  J  S,  it  has  a  red  colour. 
See  pp.  323-337  of  Jas.  Brown's  Round  Table  Club 
(Elgin,  1S73). 

Covington,  a  hamlet  and  a  parish  iu  the  Upper  Ward 
of  Lanaikshire.  The  hamlet  stands  lietvreen  the  Clyde 
and  the  Caledonian  railway,  \\  mile  X  by  E  of  its 
station  and  post-to^vn  Thankerton,  this  being  33^  miles 
S\V  of  Edinburgh  and  36J  SE  of  Glasgow  ;  at  it  is  the 
parish  chmxh  (230  sittings),  an  old  building  enlarged  in 
the  early  part  of  last  century.  A  neighbouring  tower, 
built  in  1442  by  Lindsay  of  Covington  barony,  is  now  a 
fine  ruin  ;  and  Covington  Mill  was  the  place  where  that 
famous  martyr  of  the  Covenant,  Donald  Cargill,  was 
seized  by  Irving  of  Bonshaw  in  May  16S1. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  of  Thankerton, 
Kewtown  of  Covington  (7  furlongs  XXE  of  Thankerton), 
and  Hillhead  (f  mile  XXE  of  the  church),  comprises 
the  ancient  parishes  of  Covington  and  Thankerton, 
united  some  time  between  1702  and  1720.  Bounded 
XW  by  Pettinain,  E  by  Libberton,  SE  by  Syming- 
ton, and  "W  by  Carmichael,  it  has  an  utmost  length 
of  5  miles  from  XXE  to  SSW,  viz.,  from  the  Clyde 
below  Brown  Ford  to  the  top  of  Tinto  ;  its  greatest 
breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is  2g  miles ;  and  its  area  is 
5167|  acres,  of  which  53  are  water.  The  Clyde,  here 
winding  3|  miles  west-north-westward  and  northward, 
roughly  traces  all  the  boundary  with  Libberton ;  and 
three  or  four  bums  run  to  it  through  the  interior  or  on 
the  borders  of  the  parish.  In  the  extreme  XE  the  sur- 
face sinks  to  630  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to 
829  at  Hillhead,  1049  near  Wellbrae,  1013  at  Chester, 
661  at  Thankerton  bridge,  and  2335  on  Tixxo ;  it  is 
divided  among  meadows  or  low  well-cultivated  fields 
along  the  Clyde,  pastoral  slopes,  and  heathy  uplands. 
Nearly  two-fifths  of  the  entire  area  are  under  the  plough, 
and  about  80  acres  are  in  wood.  Other  antiquities  than 
Covington  Tower  are  a  cairn,  three  camps,  and  a 
'  Druidical  temple.'  Here,  in  1S28,  his  father  being 
parish  minister,  was  bom  the  late  Lord  Advocate,  "Wil- 
liam Watson,  who  in  ISSO  was  raised  to  the  peerage  as 
Baron  Watson  of  Thankerton.  St  John's  Kirk  is  the 
only  mansion :  and  2  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  more,  2  of  less,  than  £500.  Covington  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Biggar  and  synod  of  Lothian  and 
Tweeddale  ;  the  living  is  worth  £265.  A  public  school 
at  Xewtown  of  Covington,  ^"ith  accommodation  for  70 
children,  had  (ISSO)  an  average  attendance  of  44,  and 
a  grant  of  £48,  3s.  Valuation  (1882)  £6487,  9s.  Pop. 
(1801)  456,  (1831)  521,  (1861)  532,  (1871)  454,  (1881) 
444.— Crrf.  Sur.,  sh.  23,  1865. 

Cowal,  the  mid  eastern  district  of  Argyllshire.  Its 
north-western  extremity  is  an  isthmus  between  the  head 
of  Loch  Fyne  and  the  boundary  with  Perthshire  ;  whilst 
its  north-eastern  is  a  range  of  mountains  along  the 
boundary  with  Perth  and  Dumbarton  shires,  to  the 
head  of  Loch  Long ;  and  all  the  rest  is  a  peninsula 
bounded  E  by  Loch  Long  and  the  Firth  of  Cl3'de,  S  by 
the  Kyles  of  Bute,  and  W  by  Loch  Fyne.  Its  length, 
from  the  head  of  Glen  Fyne  on  the  XXE  to  Lamont 
Point  on  the  SSW,  is  37  mUes  ;  and  its  greatest  breadth 
is  16  J  mUes.  It  comprehends  the  parishes  of  Lochgoil- 
head  and  Kilmorich,  Dunoon  and  Kihnun,  Strachur  and 
Stralachlan,  Inverchaolain,  Kibnodan,  and  Kilfinan,  and 
the  quoad  sacra  paiishes  of  Ardentinny,  Inellan,  Kiru, 
and  Sandbank,  with  the  chapelries  of  Strone,  Toward, 
Kilbride,  and  Tighnabruaich.      See  Argyllshire. 

Cowcaddens.     See  Glasgow. 

Cowdailly.     See  Cowth.a.lly. 

Cowdenbeath,  a  village  in  the  S  of  Beath  parish,  Fife,  2 
miles  WS  W  of  Lochgelly,  and  3  furlongs  X  by  W  of  Cow- 
denbeath station  on  the  Edinburgh,  Perth,  and  Dundee 
section  of  the  Xorth  British,  this  being  5J  miles  EXE 
of  Dunfermline.  It  has  a  post  office  under  Lochgelly, 
with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, a  Free  church,  and  a  public  school ;  and  in  the 
neighbourhood  are  the  extensive  collieries  of  the  Cowden- 
bea^th  Coal  Co.  Pop.  (1861)  1148,  (1871)  1457,  (1881) 
2712. 


Cowden  Castle,  a  mansion  in  Muckart  parish,  Perth- 
shire, 2J  miles  EXE  of  Dollar.  Occupjang  the  site  of 
an  ancient  fortalice,  which  belonged  to  the  see  of  St 
Andrews,  it  is  the  seat  of  John  Christie,  Esq.  (b.  1824 ; 
sue.  1859),  who  owns  1672  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£1625  per  annum. 

Cowdenhill,  a  hamlet  near  Borrowstounness,  NW 
Linlithgowshire. 

Cowdenknowes,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  part  ancient 
and  part  modern,  in  Earlston  parish,  BerAvickshire,  on 
the  left  bank  of  Leader  Water,  1  mile  S  of  Earlston 
village.  Its  strong  old  tower,  with  deep  pit  beneath 
and  '  hanging  tree '  outside  (the  latter  cut  down  barely 
50  years  since),  was  the  seat  of  those  ancestors  of  the 
Earls  of  Home  whose  feudal  cruelties  called  forth  the 
malediction — 

'  Vengeance  !  vengeance  !  when  and  where  ? 
Upon  the  house  of  Cowdenknowes,  now  and  ever  mair.' 

Their  estate  has  long  been  alienated,  and  now  is  held  by 
William  Cotesworth,  Esq.  (b.  1827),  who  owns  2331 
acres  in  Berwick  and  Roxburgh  shires,  valued  at  £2702 
per  annum.  Behind  the  house  rises  Earlston  Black 
Hill  (1031  feet),  a  picttiresque  conical  eminence,  crowned 
with  remains  of  a  Roman  camp.  All  know  the  plaintive 
air  and  one  at  least  of  the  three  versions  of  the  ballad — 

'  "  O  the  hroom,  and  the  bonny,  bonny  broom. 
And  the  broom  of  the  Cowdenknowes," 
And  aye  sae  sweet  as  the  lassie  sang 
I'  the  bught,  milking  the  ewes." 

But  the  broom-sprinkled  braes  and  haughs  of  Cowden- 
knowes— '  one  of  the  most  classical  and  far-famed  spots 
in  Scotland' — ^had  been  sadly  stripped  of  their  golden 
adornments  by  the  so-called  march  of  agrictdtural  im- 
provement, when,  in  the  winter  of  1861-62,  the  hand  of 
Xature  nipped  what  man  had  spared.  See  pp.  133-137 
of  Lauder's  Scottish  Rivers  (ed.  1874). 

Cowey's  Linn,  a  waterfall  of  35  feet  in  leap  in  Eddie- 
stone  parish.  Peeblesshire,  on  a  head-stream  of  Eddlestone 
Water,  3  miles  X  by  W  of  Eddlestone  village. 

Cowgate.  See  Ditsdee,  Edixeuegh,  and  Macch- 
lixe. 

Cowglen,  a  hamlet  and  a  mansion  in  Eastwood  parish, 
Renfrewshire,  2  ndles  W  by  S  of  PoUokshaws.  Coal 
and  limestone  are  worked  iu  the  vicinity. 

Cowhill  Tower,  a  mansion  in  Hol}"wood  parish,  Dimi- 
friesshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Xith,  4^  miles  XXW 
of  Dumfries. 

Cowie,  a  fishing  village  and  a  stream  of  Kincardine- 
shire. The  village,  in  Fetteresso  parish,  stands  on  the 
X  side  of  Stonehaven  Bay,  and  f  mile  X  by  E  of  Stone- 
haven town.  Anciently  it  was  a  free  burgh,  under 
charter  of  Malcolm  Ceannmor,  who,  on  a  rock  over- 
looking the  sea,  is  said  to  have  built  a  small  fortalice — • 
the  Castle  of  Cowie.  Of  this  some  vestiges  remain, 
while  its  First  Pointed  chapel,  which  afterwards  be- 
longed to  Marischal  College,  Aberdeen,  is  a  picturesque 
ruin,  with  a  burjing-ground  still  in  use.  Cowie  House, 
hard  by,  is  a  seat  of  Alex.  Innes,  Esq.  of  Raemoir  (b. 
1812  ;  "sue.  1S63),  who  o-wns  4750  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £2847  per  annum.  Cowie  Water,  rising  on 
the  western  border  of  Glenber\ie  parish  at  1000  feet 
above  sea-level,  winds  13  miles  eastward  through  the 
rocky  and  wooded  scenery  of  Glenbervie  and  Fetteresso 
parishes,  and  at  Stoxehavex  falls  into  Stonehaven  Bay. 
It  is  fairly  stocked  with  small  trout ;  is  subject  to  high 
freshets,  which  often  do  considerable  damage ;  and  is 
crossed,  |  mile  XXW  of  Stonehaven,  by  the  grand 
fourteen -arched  Glenury  Viaduct  of  the  Aberdeen  rail- 
way, which,  in  one  part  190  feet  high,  commands  a  fine 
view  of  the  river's  ravine,  the  vale  and  town  of  Stone- 
haven, Dimnottar  Castle,  and  other  features  of  the  sur- 
rounding landscape. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  66,  67,  1871. 

Cowiefauld,  a  hamlet  in  Strathnnglo  parish,  Fife,  2 
miles  WSW  of  Strathmiglo  \illage. 

Cowie's  Linn.     See  Cowey's  Lixx. 

Cowlairs.     See  Gl.\sgow. 

Cowlatt,  Loch.     See  Coulatt. 

Cowpits,  a  village  in  Inveresk  parish,  Edinburghshire, 


COWSHAVEN 

on  the  right  bank  of  the  Esk,  U  mile  S  of  Mussel- 
bui-<;li. 

Cowshaven.     See  ABEnroiTv. 

Cowthally,  a  ruined  castle  in  Carnwath  parish,  Lanark- 
shire, on  the  edge  of  a  moss  H  mile  NW  of  Carnwath 
viUage.  From  the  reign  of  Da'vid  I.  (1124-53)  to  1603 
it  was  the  seat  of  the  powerful  family  of  Somervillc, 
which,  ennobled  in  1430  under  the  title  of  Baron  Somer- 
ville,  became  extinct  in  1870  on  the  death  of  the  nine- 
teenth Lord.  P.urned  by  the  English  in  1320,  but 
aftenvards  rebuilt,  it  was  surrounded  by  moat  and  ram- 
part, and  accessible  only  by  a  drawbridge.  James  Y. 
and  VL  were  both  entertained  here  with  great  magni- 
ficence, the  latter  punningly  remarking  that  the  castle 
rather  should  be  called  Goiv-daily,  because  a  cow  and 
ten  sheep  were  killed  there  every  da}'.  See  Drum  and 
the  eleventh  Lord  Somerville's  curious  Memorie  of  the 
Somervilles  (2  vols.,  1815). 

Coxton,  an  old  castellated  mansion  in  St  Andrews- 
Lhanbride  parish,  Elginshire,  2  miles  ESE  of  Elgin.  A 
tall  square  structure,  ^^'ith  turrets  at  the  angles,  it  bears 
date  1644,  but  is  fully  a  century  older;  and  it  was  the 
residence  of  the  Inneses  of  Invermarkie,  but  belongs 
now  to  the  Earl  of  Fife.  See  vol.  1.  of  Billings'  Baronial 
Antiquities  (1845). 

Coyle  or  Coila  (popularly  Kill),  a  stream  of  Kyle  dis- 
trict, AjTshire.  It  rises  in  the  S  of  Ochiltree  parish 
close  to  the  boundary  with  Coylton,  and  winds  14i 
miles  north-westward  to  the  river  Ayv,  at  a  point  3j 
miles  E  of  the  town  of  Ayr.  It  makes  a  cascade,  25 
feet  ^vide  and  15  feet  in  fall,  under  the  ridge  on  which 
stands  Sundrum  House  ;  its  yellow  trout  are  good,  Init 
not  over  plentiful  ;  and  at  llillmunnoch,  on  its  bank. 
Burns  makes  the  '  Poor  and  Honest  Sodger '  return  to 
his  ain  dear  maid. 

Coylton,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  Kyle  district,  Ayr- 
shire. The  village  stands  2  miles  W  by  N  of  Drongan 
station  and  6  ESE  of  Ajt,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office,  and  consists  of  two  parts,  Coylton  proper  and 
New  Coylton.  It  is  traditionally  said  to  have  got  its 
name  from  the  'Auld  King  Coil'  of  Coilsfield,  but 
figures  in  old  records  as  Quiltoun  and  Cuiltoun. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  of  Craighall, 
Woodside,  Rankinston,  and  Joppa,  is  bounded  N  by 
Tarbolton,  E  by  Stair  and  Ochiltree,  S  by  Dalmellington, 
SW  by  Dalr}Tnple,  W  by  Ayr,  and  NW  by  St  Quivox. 
Its  greatest  length,  from  NNW  to  SSE,  is  8^  miles  ;  its 
breadth  varies  between  7  furlongs  and  3§  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  11,752|  acres,  of  which  160|  are  water.  From  a 
little  below  Stair  church  to  just  above  Mainholm,  the 
river  Ayk  winds  7f  miles  west-south-westward  along  all 
the  northern  and  north-western  border  ;  to  it  flows  the 
Water  of  CoYiiE,  latterly  through  the  NE  interior,  but 
chiefly  along  the  boundary  with  Ochiltree  and  Stair. 
Lochs  Mautnaham  (1 J  x  J  mile)  and  Snipe  (li  x  §  furl. ) 
lie  on  the  Dalrymple  border ;  and  on  the  Ayr  border  is 
Loch  I'ergus  (3x1  furl.).  Where  the  Ayr  quits  the 
parish  the  surface  sinks  to  less  than  50  feet  above  sea- 
level,  thence  rising  to  139  feet  near  Craighall,  356  at 
Raithhill,  253  near  Joppa,  799  at  Craigs  of  Co3de,  1241 
at  Ewe  Hill,  1122  at  Brown  Rig,  and  1426  at  Benwhat, 
which  last,  however,  culminates  just  beyond  the  southern 
border.  Coal,  ironstone,  trap  rock,  sandstone,  lime- 
stone, and  potter's  clay  are  worked,  the  recent  great 
increase  in  the  population  being  due  to  mining  develop- 
ment ;  plumbago  was  mined,  from  1808  till  1815,  on 
the  farm  of  Laigh  Dalmore  ;  fire-clay  abounds  in  the 
neigld)Ourhood  of  a  limestone  (|uarry  ;  and  Water-of- 
Ayr  stone,  used  for  hones,  was  raised  for  some  years  on 
Knocksho"gle  farm.  The  soil  of  the  holms  or  flat 
grounds  along  the  streams  is  light  and  loamy,  on  a 
sandy  or  gravelly  bottom  ;  elsewhere  it  is  inostly  a  poor 
cohesive  clay  on  a  stilf,  cold,  tilly  subsoil,  with  patches 
of  moss  or  peat.  About  70  per  cent,  of  the  entire  land 
area  is  in  tillage,  23  in  pasture,  and  7  under  wood. 
Antiquities  are  a  large  stone,  Ijy  tradition  associated 
with  tlie  name  of  '  Auld  King  Coil ;'  the  castellated  por- 
tion of  Sundrum  House  ;  fragments  of  the  old  parish 
church  ;  and  the  sites  of  two  pre-Reformation  chapels. 
292 


CRAIG 

A  field  on  Bargleuch  has  yielded  four  stone  coflins  ;  and 
silver  coins  of  Elizabeth,  James  VI.,  and  Charles  I. 
have  been  dug  up  on  Bargunnoch  farm.  JMansions  are 
Sundrum,  Gadgirth,  Rankinston,  Martnaham  Muir,  and 
Oakbank  ;  and  the  property  is  divided  among  14  land- 
owners, 6  holding  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  3  of  between  £100  and  £500,  1  of  from  £50  to 
£100,  and  4  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Coylton  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  the 
living  is  worth  £331.  The  church,  built  in  1836,  is  a 
good  Gothic  edifice,  with  a  tower  upwards  of  60  feet 
high,  and  contains  744  sittings.  Two  public  schools, 
Coylton  and  Littlemill,  with  respective  accommodation 
for  293  and  220  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  191  and  134,  and  grants  of  £162,  12s.  6d.  and 
£96,  19s.  Valuation  (1860)  £10,481,  (1882)  £20,454, 
8s.  9d.,  including  £911  for  railway.  Pop.  (ISOl)  848, 
(1831)  1380,  (1861)  1604,  (1871)  1440,  (1881)  3100.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  14,  1863. 

Crag  or  Craiglich,  an  eminence  (1563  feet)  on  the 
mutual  border  of  CouU  and  Lumphanan  parishes,  Aber- 
deenshire, 7^  miles  SSW  of  Alford. 

Craggie  or  Creagach,  a  loch  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Lairg  and  Rogart  parishes,  SE  Sutherland,  3^  miles 
ENE  of  Lairg  village.  Lying  525  feet  above  sea-level, 
it  measures  1  mile  by  2J  furlongs,  and,  with  a  stiflish 
breeze,  affords  as  good  trouting  as  any  in  Sutherland. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  102,  1881. 

Craggie  or  Creagach,  a  loch  in  Tongue  parish,  Suther- 
land, receiving  the  superfluence  of  Loch  Loyal,  and 
sending  ott'  its  own  to  Loch  Slaim,  through  two  short 
reaches  of  the  river  BoRGiE,  each  1  furlong  long.  L)'- 
ing  369  feet  above  sea-level,  it  is  1§  mile  long  from  S  to 
NNE  ;  varies  in  breadth  between  IJ  and  3h  furlongs  ; 
and  contains  magnificent  trout  and  salmo-ferox,  mth 
occasional  salmon  and  grilse.  One  of  its  trout  scaled 
8\hs.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  114,  1880. 

Craibstone.     See  Aberdeen,  p.  17. 

Craichie.     See  Dunnichen. 

Craig,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Colmonell  parish, 
S  Ayrshire,  on  the  Stinchar,  2  miles  ENE  of  Colmonell 
village. 

Craig,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kilmaurs  parish, 
Ayrshire,  between  Carmel  Water  and  the  river  Ir\ane, 
4  miles  W  by  S  of  Kilmarnock.  Its  owner,  Allan  Pol- 
lok-Morris,  Esq.  (b.  1836;  sue.  1862),  holds  165  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £846  per  annum. 

Craig.     See  Neilston. 

Craig,  a  hamlet  and  a  coast  parish  of  Forfarshire. 
The  hamlet,  Kirkton  of  Craig,  stands  on  the  brow  of  a 
gentle  acclivit}',  1^  mile  SSW  of  Montrose,  and  com- 
mands a  splemlid  view  over  Montrose  Basin  and  town 
away  to  the  Grampians. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  fishing  villages  of 
Ferryden  and  Usan  or  Ulysses'  Haven,  comprises  the 
ancient  parishes  of  Inchbrayock  or  Craig  and  St  Skeoch 
or  Dunninald,  united  in  1618.  It  is  bounded  N  by 
Montrose  Basin  and  the  mouth  of  the  South  Esk,  SE 
by  the  German  Ocean,  S  bj^  the  Dysart  section  of 
j\Iaryton  and  by  Lunan,  SW  by  Kinnell,  W  by  Far- 
nell,  and  NW  by  Maryton  proper.  Its  utmost  length 
is  5|  miles  from  ENE  to  WSW,  viz.,  from  the  Ness 
to  tiny  Nicholls  Loch  upon  Ross  Muir ;  its  width 
varies  between  1^  and  2J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  4865j 
acres,  of  which  345J-  are  foreshore,  and  137i  water. 
The  northern  border  slopes  gently  do-\vii  to  Montro.se 
Basin  ;  and  Rossie  island  there,  lying  at  the  head  of 
the  South  Esk's  eOlucnce  to  the  sea,  and  separated 
from  the  mainland  only  by  a  narrow  channel,  belongs 
to  Craig,  but  will  be  separately  noticed.  The  E  coast 
is  rocky,  and  toward  the  S  precipitous,  at  Boddin 
Point  rising  rapidly  to  200  feet  above  sea-level.  On 
the  Ness,  or  most  easterly  point  of  the  coast,  where  the 
South  Esk  falls  into  the  sea,  is  a  lightliouse,  whose  light, 
fixed  white  till  1881,  is  now  double  intermittent  or 
occulting,  visible  at  a  distance  of  17  nautical  miles.  The 
interior,  with  gradual  southward  and  south-westward 
ascent,  forms,  for  the  Tuost  part,  an  undulating  table- 
land ;  and,  attaining  234  feet  near  Balkeillie,  426  near 


CRAIG 

Balstout,  and  503  near  the  Keformatory,  commands 
from  many  points  extensive  views.  The  rocks  are 
chiefly  erujjtive  and  Devonian,  and  include  greenstone, 
amj-gdaloid,  sandstone,  and  limestone.  A  eoai-se  sand- 
stone is  worked  in  several  quarries  for  building ;  lime- 
stone was  long  extensively  worked  ;  and  many  varieties 
of  beautiful  pebbles  are  found  in  the  amygdaloid.  The 
soil  in  the  E  is  sandy,  westward  inclines  to  moorish, 
and  in  the  central  and  much  the  largest  section  is  a 
strong  rich  loam.  Fully  five-sevenths  of  the  entire 
area  are  in  cultivation,  a  little  less  than  a  fourth  being 
either  in  pasture  or  commonage,  whilst  some  300  acres 
are  under  wood.  An  old  castle  stood  on  the  coast,  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  Boddin,  and  has  left  slight 
vestiges  called  Black  Jack  ;  and  a  square  earthen  bat- 
tery, traditionally  said  to  have  been  thrown  np  by 
Oliver  Cromwell,  stood  on  a  small  headland  at  the 
mouth  of  the  South  Esk.  The  most  interesting 
antiquity,  however,  is  the  strong  castle  of  the  barony 
of  Craig, — a  barony  nearly  identical  with  the  present 
estate  of  Rossie.  Frequently  mentioned  by  Scottish 
chroniclers,  it  stood  on  the  N  side  of  the  parish,  and  is 
now  represented  by  a  tower  and  gatewaj",  and  by  part 
of  a  dwelling-house  added  in  1639.  Mansions  are  Rossie 
Castle,  Dunninald  House,  and  Usan  House ;  and  the 
property  is  divided  among  4  landowners,  1  holding  an 
annual  value  of  over  £5000,  2  of  over  £2000,  and  1  of 
over  £400.  Craig  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Brechin  and 
synod  of  Angus  and  Meams ;  the  living  is  worth  £360. 
The  parish  church,  erected  in  1799,  is  a  good  building 
with  a  square  tower  SO  feet  high,  and  figures  finely  in  the 
landscape  ;  a  Free  church  is  at  Ferryden.  Four  public 
schools — Craig,  Ferryden  Senior,  Ferryden  Infant,  and 
"VVesterton — with  respective  accommodation  for  143, 160, 
165,  and  42  children,  had  (18S0)  an  average  attendance 
of  99,  144,  165,  and  25,  and  grants  of  £8S,  Os.  6d., 
£91,  Is.,  £132,  10s.,  and  £32,  3s.  Rossie  Reformatory, 
towards  the  soirth-westem  comer  of  the  parish,  oh  miles 
SW  of  Montrose,  was  established  in  1857,  and  had  on 
an  average  72  inmates  in  1880,  when  its  total  receipts 
were  £1193,  inclusive  of  a  Treasury  allowance  of 
£1093.  Valuation  (1882)  £12,486,  8s.  2d.,  including 
£1225  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801)  1328,  (1831)  1552, 
(1861)  2177,  (1871)  2402,  (1881)  2589.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
57,  1868. 

Craig  or  Craig-of-Madderty.     See  St  David's. 

Craigallion,  a  loch  in  Strathblane  parish,  SW  Stir- 
lingshire, 2  miles  AVSW  of  Strathblane  station.  Lying 
380  feet  above  sea-level,  it  measures  3|  furlongs  by  1^, 
and  has  finely-wooded  shores. 

Craigandarrocb.     See  Ballater. 

Craiganeoin,  a  deep  natm-al  amphitheatre  in  Moy  and 
Dalarossie  jtarish,  Inverness-shire,  1  mile  SE  of  Moy 
church.  Surrounded  by  high  rocks,  and  accessible  only 
through  one  narrow  passage,  it  was  used  in  old  tiu.es 
by  the  Highland  caterans  for  concealing  their  wives 
and  children  during  their  raids  into  the  low  countr}- ; 
and  was  the  scene  of  a  skii-mish  in  the  '45,  known  as 
the  Rout  of  Moy. 

Craiganfhiach  or  Raven's  Rock,  a  precipitous  crag  in 
the  W  of  Fodi-lertj"  parish,  Ross-shire.  It  gives  off  a 
ver}'  distinct  echo,  and  is  near  a  strong  chalj^beate  spring, 
the  Saints'  Well. 

Craiganoin.     See  Craigaxeoix. 

Craiganroy,  a  commodious  and  safe  harbour  in  Glen- 
shiel  parish,  Ross-shire,  at  the  S  corner  of  Loch 
Duich. 

Craigarestie,  a  chief  summit  of  the  Kilpatrick  Hills, 
in  Old  Kilpatrick  parish,  Dumbartonshire.  It  cul- 
minates 1^  mile  NKE  of  Bowling,  on  the  SW  side  of 
Loch  Humphrey,  at  1166  feet  above  sea-level. 

Craigbamet,  an  estate,  \vith  a  mansion,  in  the  W  of 
Campsie  parish,  S  Stirlingshire,  If  mile  W  by  N  of 
Campsie  Glen  station.  Its  o\vner,  Major  Chs.  Graham- 
Stirling  (b.  1827  ;  sue.  1852),  holds  3343  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £1716  per  annum. 

Craigbeg,  a  hill,  1054  feet  high,  in  Dm-ris  parish,  Kin- 
cardineshire, 5^-  miles  ESE  of  Banchory. 

Craigbhockie  and  Craigboddich,  two  lofty  cliffs  in 


CRAIGDOW 

Loth  parish,   Sutherland,   confronting   each  other  on 

opposite  sides  of  a  small  burn  running  to  Loch  Glen. 

Craigcaffie  Castle,  the  old  square  tower  of  the  NeU- 
sous  in  Inch  parish,  Wigtownshire,  3^  miles  NE  of 
Stranraer.  It  was  surroimded  by  a  fosse,  but  never 
could  have  been  a  place  of  much  strength  ;  now  it  is 
occupied  b)-  farm  labourers. 

Craig  Castle.  See  Auchixdoir  axd  Keakx,  and 
Castle  Craig. 

Craigchailliach,a  summit(2990feet)in  the  Finlarig  sec- 
tion of  Weem  parish, Perthshire,3;i  miles  K  by  W  of  Killin. 

Craig  Cluny,  a  precipitous  granite  height  in  Crathie 
parish,  Aberdeenshire,  IJ  mile  E  of  Castleton  of  Brae- 
mar.  It  overhangs  the  public  road,  and  is  clothed  far 
up  with  rowan,  weeping  birch,  and  lofty  pines.  See 
Charters  Chest. 

Craigcrook  Castle,  a  picturesque  old  mansion  in 
Cramond  parish,  Edinburghshire,  nestling  at  the  foot 
of  the  north-eastern  slope  of  Corstorphine  Hill,  1 
mile  W  of  Craigleith  station,  and  3^  miles  W  of  Edin- 
burgh. Built  probably  in  the  16th  century  by  one  of 
the  Adamsons,  it  was  sold  in  1659  to  John  Mein,  in 
1670  to  John  HaU,  in  1682  to  Walter  Pi-ingle,  and  in 
1698  to  John  Strachan,  who,  dying  about  1719,  be- 
queathed for  charitable  uses  all  his  propertj* — 334  acres, 
valued  now  at  £1259  per  annum.  From  early  in  this 
century  till  1814  it  was  the  residence  of  the  publisher, 
Archibald  Constable  (1775-1827),  whose  son  and  bio- 
gi'apher,  Thomas  (1812-81),  was  bom  here,  and  who  in 
1815  was  succeeded  by  the  celebrated  critic  and  lawyer, 
Francis  Jeffrey  (1773-1850).  The  latter  describes  it  as 
'  an  old  narrow  high  house,  18  feet  wide  and  50  long,  with 
irregular  projections  of  all  sorts,  three  little  staircases, 
turrets,  a  large  roimd  tower  at  one  end,  and  an  old 
garden  (or  rather  two,  one  within  the  other),  stuck  close 
on  one  side  of  the  house,  and  surrounded  with  massive 
and  aged  walls,  15  feet  high.'  He  straightway  set 
about  the  task  of  reformation  ;  and  during  the  thirty- 
five  summers  that  he  passed  at  Craigcrook,  by  extending 
and  remodelling  the  gardens  (a  prototype  of  those  of 
'  Tully-Yeolau '  in  Scott's  Waverley),  and  by  additions 
to  the  house  in  1835  and  earlier,  he  made  it  at  last  a 
lovely  and  most  delightful  spot.  See  Cockburn's  Life 
of  Lord  Jeffrey  (2  vols.,  Edinb.  1852). 

Craigdaimve,  a  sea  inlet  on  the  W  side  of  North 
Knapdale  parish,  Argyllshii'e,  branching  from  the  Sound 
of  Jiu'a  near  Keils  Point. 

Craigdam,  a  hamlet  in  Tarves  parish,  Aberdeenshire, 
1\  mile  SW  of  Tarves  village.  At  it  are  a  U.  P.  church 
(1806  ;  600  sittings)  and  a  girls'  public  school. 

Craigdarroch,  an  estate,  Avith  a  mansion,  in  Glencaim 
parish,  Dumfriesshire,  2\  miles  W  of  Moniaive.  Its 
owner,  Robert  Cutlar  Fergusson,  Esq.  (b.  1855 ;  sue. 
1859),  holds  2264  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1755 
per  annum.  Craigdarroch  Burn,  rising  upon  the  eastern 
slope  of  Cornharrow  Hill  at  1500  feet  above  sea-level, 
close  to  the  boundary  with  Kirkcudbrightshire,  runs  6 
miles  east-by-southward  to  the  vicinity  of  Moniaive, 
where  it  unites  with  Dalwhat  and  Castlefern  burns  to 
form  the  river  Cairx. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  9,  1863. 

Craigdarroch,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion,  in 
Contin  parish,  SE  Ross-shue,  4  miles  WSW  of  Strath- 
peffer.  The  mansion  stands  amid  romantic  scenery, 
near  the  north-eastern  shore  of  Lcvch  Achilty. 

Craig-David.     See  Bervie  Brow. 

Craigderg,  a  ridge  of  granitic  rocks  in  Inverness  parish, 
Inverness-shire,  adjacent  to  the  side  of  Loch  Dochfour. 
An  ancient  watchtower  stood  upon  it,  and  is  sujjposed 
to  have  been  an  outpost  of  Castle-Spiritual. 

Craigdhuloch,  a  stupendous  cliff  in  the  SW  comer 
of  Glenmuiek  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  adjacent  to  the 
boundary  with  Forfarshire.  It  overhangs  the  S  side  of 
the  small,  dark,  sequestered  Loch  Dhuloch  ;  soars  to 
the  height  of  more  than  1000  feet;  and  is  thought  by 
some  observers  to  be  grander  than  the  famous  rocks  of 
Lochnagar. 

Craigdow,  a  loch  (If  x  \h  furl.)  on  the  mutual  border 
of  Kirkoswald  and  Maybole  parishes,  W  Ayrshire,  3i 
miles  SW  of  Maybole  town. 

2P3 


CRAIGELLaCHIE 


CRAIGFORTH 


Craigellachie  (Gael,  crcag-eagalach,  '  rock  of  alarm '), 
a  bold  aiul  wooded  height(1500  feet)  on  the  mutual  border 
of  Duthil  and  Alvie  parishes,  E  Inverness-shire,  near 
the  left  bank  of  the  Sjiey,  above  Aviemore  station.  It 
gave  the  clan  Grant  their  slogan  or  war-cry,  '  Stand  fast, 
Craigellachie. ' 

Craigellachie,  a  village  in  the  N  of  Aberlour  parish, 
W  Hantl'sliire,  lincly  seated,  300  feet  above  sea-level,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Spey,  which  here  receives  the  Fid- 
dich,  and  here  is  crossed  by  a  handsome  iron  bridge, 
with  round  embattled  towers  at  the  angles  and  a  single 
arch  of  100  feet  span,  erected  in  1815  at  a  cost  of  £8000, 
as  also  by  the  viaduct  (1857)  of  the  Great  North  of 
Scotland  railway.  The  junction  of  the  Jlorayshire, 
Keith,  and  Strathspey  sections  of  that  system,  it  is  12^ 
miles  SSE  of  Elgin,  14|  WSW  of  Keith,  68  XW  by  W 
of  Aberdeen,  33^  NE  of  Boat  of  Garten,  and  121f  N  by 
E  of  Perth  ;  and  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments,  two  insurance 
agencies,  gas-works,  an  hotel,  an  Established  church, 
with  116  sittings,  and  a  girls'  school,  vnth.  accommoda- 
tion for  81  children.  "Water  has  been  introduced,  and 
building  actively  carried  on  since  the  summer  of  1880, 
when  a  new  street  was  sanctioned  round  the  top  of  the 
lofty  quartz  crag  above  the  station,  on  feus  given  off  by 
Lord  Fife  at  £8  per  acre. — Ord.  Sicr.,  sh.  85,  1876. 

Craigencat,  a  hill  on  the  N  border  of  Dunfermline 
parish,  Fife,  |  mile  E  by  S  of  Loch  Glow,  and  If  SSE 
of  Cleish  village.  Rising  to  an  altitude  of  921  feet 
above  sea-level,  it  mainly  consists  of  basaltic  rock, 
which  is  quarried  for  dykes  and  road-metal,  and  it 
exhibits  very  regular  basaltic  columns  with  many 
horizontal  divisions. 

Craigend,  a  farm  on  the  N  border  of  Newabbey 
parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  3J  miles  NW  of  Newabbey 
\'illage.  A  rocking-stone  on  it,  15  tons  in  weight,  may 
be  put  in  motion  by  a  child. 

Craigend,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Strathblane 
parish,  Stirlingshire,  3^  miles  N  by  W  of  Milngavie. 
The  mansion,  Craigend  Castle,  was  built  in  1812,  and 
is  a  splendid  edifice,  standing  amid  fine  grounds ;  its 
owner  is  the  ex-diplomatist,  the  Right  Hon.  Sir  Andrew 
Buchanan,  G.C.B.,  of  Dunburgh,  Bart.  (cr.  1878),  who, 
born  in  1807,  succeeded  his  father  in  1860,  and  holds 
883  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £948  per  annum. 

Craigend,  a  hamlet  and  a  moor  in  Campsie  parish, 
Stirlingshire.  The  hamlet  lies  on  Powburn,  adjacent  to 
the  Blane  VaUey  railwa}',  2  miles  E  by  S  of  Strathblane 
station.  The  moor  extends  from  the  southern  -sdcinity 
of  the  hamlet  to  the  boundary  with  Baldernock,  and 
attains  an  altitude  of  634  feet  above  sea-level. 

Craigend,  a  village  in  Perth  East  Church  parish,  Perth- 
shire, 2  miles  S  of  Perth.  At  it  are  a  public  school  and 
a  U.P.  church  (1780  ;  413  sittings). 

Craigend,  a  mansion  in  Liberton  parish,  Edinburgh- 
shire, near  Craigmillar  Castle,  2J  miles  SSE  of  Edin- 
burgh. Built  in  1869,  it  is  a  large  edifice  in  the  Gothic 
style,  and  has,  at  the  SE  corner,  a  circular  tower  60  feet 
high. 

Craigendarroch.    See  Ballatek. 

Craigends,  an  estate,  with  an  old  mansion,  in  Kil- 
barchan  parish,  Renfrewshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Gryfe,  3  miles  NNW  of  Johnstone.  Its  owner,  .John 
Charles  Cunninghame,  Esq.  (b.  1851  ;  sue.  1866),  holds 
3136  acres  in  tlie  shire,  valued  at  £9985  per  annum,  in- 
cluding £2508  for  minerals. 

Craigengelt,  an  estate  in  the  SW  of  St  Ninians 
pni-ish,  Stirlingshire,  W  of  Loch  Coulter,  and  5J  miles 
WNW  of  Denny.  It  includes  a  considerable  mass  of 
the  Lennox  Hills,  and  contains  a  circular  cairn  or 
mound  called  the  Ghost's  Knowe,  which,  300  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, is  engirt  by  twelve  very  large  stones.  This 
is  one  only  out  of  several  artificial  inounils,  clothed  with 
fine  grass,  and  called  the  Sunny  Hills  ;  and  Craigengelt 
is  believed  to  have  been,  in  olden  times,  the  scene  of 
many  tragical  events. 

Craigengower,  a  liill  in  Straiton  parish,  Ayrshire, 
9  furlongs  SE  of  Straiton  village.  Rising  to  a  height  of 
1160  feet  aViove  sea-level,  it  is  crowned  with  a  handsome 
294 


monument  to  Colonel  Blair,  who  fell  in  the  Crimea ;  and 
it  commands  an  extensive  view. 

Craigenputtoch,  a  lonely  farm  at  the  head  of  Dun- 
score  parish,  in  Nithsdale,  Dumfriesshire,  lying,  700 
feet  above  sea-level,  at  the  SW  base  of  Craigenputtoch 
Moor  (1038  feet),  10  miles  WSW  of  Auldgirth  station, 
and  15  WNW  of  Dumfries.  From  May  1828  to  May 
1834  it  was  the  home  of  Thomas  Carlyle  (1795-1881) 
and  his  wife,  Jane  Welsh  (1801-66),  she  having  inherited 
it  from  her  father,  whose  ancestors  owned  it  for  many 
long  generations,  going  back,  it  may  be,  to  great  John 
Welsh  of  Ayr  (1570-1623).  Here  he  wrote  Sartor  Ee- 
sartus,  here  received  two  visits  from  Lord  Jeffrey,  and 
hence  sent  Goethe  a  description  of  his  residence  as  'not 
in  Dumfries  itself,  but  15  miles  to  the  NW,  among  the 
granite  hills  and  the  black  morasses  which  stretch  west- 
ward through  Galloway,  almost  to  the  Irish  Sea.  In 
this  wilderness  of  heath  and  rock  our  estate  stands  forth 
a  green  oasis,  a  tract  of  ploughed,  partly  enclosed,  and 
planted  ground,  where  corn  ripens,,  and  trees  afford  a 
shade,  although  surrounded  by  sea-mews  and  rough - 
woolled  sheep.  Here,  with  no  small  effort,  have  we 
built  and  furnished  a  neat  substantial  dwelling  ;  here, 
in  the  absence  of  professional  or  other  office,  we  live  to 
cultivate  literature  according  to  our  strength,  and  in 
our  own  peculiar  way.'  In  1807,  the  3-ear  succeeding 
the  death  of  Mrs  Carlyle,  he  bequeathed  the  estate — 773 
acres,  valued  at  £250  per  annum — to  Edinburgh  Uni- 
versity, to  found  ten  equal  competitive  'John  Welsh 
bursaries,'  five  of  them  classical,  five  mathematical. — 
Orel.  Sicr.,  sh.  9,  1863.  See  Carlyle's  Reminiscences 
(1881),  and  his  Life  by  J.  A.  Froude  (1882). 

Craigenscore,  a  mountain  in  the  N  of  Glenbucket 
parish,  W  Aberdeenshire,  21  miles  N  of  the  church.  It 
has  an  altitude  of  2000  feet  above  sea-level. 

Craigentinny  (Gael,  creag-an-teine,  '  rock  of  tire '),  an 
estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  South  Leith  parish,  Mid- 
lothian, lying  between  Edinburgh  and  the  Firth  of 
Forth,  2;^  miles  EXE  of  the  city.  The  property  of 
Samuel  Christie-ililler,  Esq.  (b.  'l811 ;  sue.  1862),  it 
extends  over  only  652  acres,  yet  is  valued  at  £5739  per 
annum.  This  high  rental  is  due  to  the  fact  that  here 
are  the  most  extensive  meadows  in  Scotland,  all  of 
which  have  been  under  regular  sewage  irrigation  for 
upwards  of  35  years.  The  produce  is  annually  sold  to 
cow-keepers  at  £16  to  £28  (in  one  year  £44)  an  acre,  and 
the  gi'ass  per  acre  is  estimated  at  from  50  to  70  tons. 
It  is  cut  five  times  a  year  ;  and  two  men  suffice  to  keep 
the  ditches  in  order  {Traits.  Eight,  and  Ag.  Soc,  1877, 
p.  24). 

Craigenveoch,  a  mansion  in  Old  Luce  parish,  Wigtown- 
shire, on  the  N  side  of  Whitefield  Loch,  3;^  miles  ESE 
of  Glenluce.  Built  in  1876,  it  is  a  splendid  Scottish 
baronial  pile,  the  seat  of  Admiral  Right  Hon.  Sir  Jn. 
Chs.  Dalrymjile  Hay,  third  Bart,  since  1798  (b.  1821  ; 
sue.  1861),  who,  having  previously  represented  Wake- 
field and  Stamford,  was  in  1880  elected  member  for  the 
Wigtown  burghs,  and  who  owns  7400  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £6601  per  annum. 

Craigflower,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Torryburn 
parish,  SW  Fife,  3:^  miles  E  of  Culross.  It  was  the  i)ro- 
perty  of  the  Right  Hon.  Sir  Jas.  Wm.  Colvile  of  Ochil- 
tree (1810-80),  Indian  jurist  and  privy  councillor,  who 
owned  1002  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2279  per 
annum. 

Craigfoodie,  a  hill  and  a  mansion  in  the  N  of  Dairsi' 
parish,  Fife.  The  hill,  culminating  3^  miles  NE  ot 
Cupar,  at  554  feet  above  sea-level,  presents  to  the  SW 
a  mural  front,  partly  consisting  of  columnal  basalt. 
The  mansion  stands  on  the  SE  slope  of  the  hill,  If  mile 
NW  of  Dairsie  station. 

Craigford,  a  village  in  St  Ninians  parish,  Stirling- 
shire, distant  1  mile  from  Bannockburn. 

Craigforth,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Stirling 
parish,  Stirlingshire.  Tlie  mansion  stands  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  river  Forth,  2  miles  WNW  of  the  town  ; 
and,  together  with  the  estate,  takes  name  from  a  bohl 
and  wooded  crag.  It  is  a  seat  of  Geo.  Fred.  Wil. 
Callander,  Esq.  of  Akukinglass  (b.  1848  ;  sue.  1851), 


CRAIG-GIBBON 


CRAIGIELANDS 


who  holds  601  acres  in  Stirlingshire,  and  51.670  in 
Ai'gyllsliire,  valued  respectively  at  £1886  and  £5626  per 
auuum.  Here  lived  and  died  the  antiquary,  John  Cal- 
lander (1710-S9). 

Craig-Gibbon,  a  summit  in  a  detached  section  of 
Metliven  parish,  Perthshire,  3h  miles  SSW  of  Dunkeld. 
One  of  the  Lower  Grampians,  it  rises  to  a  height  of  1263 
feet  above  sea-level,  and  is  surmounted  by  an  obelisk. 

Craig-Gowan,  a  wooded  height  (1437  feet)  in  Crathie 
and  Braemar  jiarish,  SAV  Aberdeenshire,  9  furlongs  S  by 
E  of  Balmoral.  On  it  are  Prince  Albert's  Cairn  (1863), 
and  others,  the  first  of  which  was  reared  on  11  Oct.  1852, 
by  the  Queen,  the  Prince  Consort,  and  all  the  royal 
children,  according  to  age.  See  Balmoral  and  p.  101 
of  the  Queen's  Journal  (ed.  1877). 

Craighall,  a  village  in  the  NW  of  Coylton  parish, 
Ayrshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Ayr,  and  4  miles 
E  b)-  N  of  AjT  town. 

Craighall,  an  estate,  with  a  ruined,  castellated  man- 
sion, in  Ceres  parish,  Fife.  The  ruined  mansion  stands 
on  the  N  side  of  a  deep  wooded  den,  traversed  by  a 
bm-n,  3 J  miles  SE  of  Cupar  ;  and,  buUt  by  Sir  Thomas 
Hope,  King's  Advocate  to  Charles  I.,  still  presents  a 
grand  appearance.     See  Pinkie. 

Craighall,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Rattray 
parish,  Perthshire,  3  miles  N  of  Blairgowrie.  *  A  modern- 
ised ancient  edifice,  on  a  pentnsulated  rock,  rising  214 
feet  sheer  from  the  Ericht,  and  formerly  defended  on 
the  land  side  by  a  fosse  and  two  towers,'  the  mansion 
■was  visited  by  Scott  in  the  summer  of  1793,  and  was  one 
of  the  prototypes  of  '  Tidly-Veolan'  in  Wavcrley.  The 
Rattrays  of  Craighall-Rattray  are  said  to  date  back  to 
the  reign  of  Malcolm  Ceannmor  (1057-93) ;  and  the 
present  proprietor,  Lieut. -Gen.  Clerk  Rattray,  C.B. 
(b,  1832  ;  sue.  1851),  holds  3256  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £2928  per  annum. 

Craighall,  New,  a  collier  village  on  the  mutual  border 
of  Liberton  and  Inveresk  parishes,  Edinburghshire,  near 
New  Hailes  station  on  the  North  British,  and  2  miles 
WSW  of  Musselburgh.  At  it  are  an  Established  chapel 
of  ease  (1878),  built,  like  the  houses,  of  brick,  and  the 
Benhar  Coal  Co. 's  school,  which,  with  accommodation 
for  403  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of 
240,  and  a  gi-aut  of  £166,  6s.  Pop.  (1861)  336,  (1881) 
978. 

Craighall,  Old,  a  collier  village,  with  a  school,  in 
Inveresk  parish,  Edinburghshu'e,  If  mile  SSW  of 
Musselburgh. 

Craighead.     See  Cajipsie. 

Craighead,  a  village  in  Redgorton  parish,  Perthshire, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Almond,  1  mile  N  by  W  of 
Alraondbank  station. 

Craighead,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Blantyre 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Clyde,  1 
mile  S  of  Bothwell  village. 

Craighead,  a  place  where  Caaf  Water  forms  a  fine 
cascade  in  a  narrow  wooded  dell,  on  the  mutual  boun- 
dary of  Dairy  and  Kilwinning  parishes,  Ayrshire. 

Craiffheads,  a  village  connected  with  Barrhead  town, 
in  Renfrewshire. 

Craighirst,  one  of  the  Kilpatrick  Hills  in  Old  Kil- 
pati-ick  parish,  Dumbartonshire,  2\  miles  N  of  Dun- 
tocher.  It  has  an  altitude  of  1074  feet  above  sea- 
level. 

Craighlaw,  an  estate,  with  a  handsome  modern  man- 
sion, engirt  by  w-ell-wooded  policies,  in  Kirkcowan 
parish,  Wigtownshire,  IJ  mile  W  by  N  of  Kirkcowan 
village.  Its  owner,  Malcolm  Fleming  Hamilton,  Esq. 
(b.  1869  ;  sue.  1876),  holds  6300  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £2577  per  annum. 

Craighom.     See  Alva,  Stirlingshire. 

Craig  House,  a  fine  old,  many-gabled  Scottish  man- 
sion ill  St  Cutlibcrts  parish,  Midlothian,  on  the  north- 
eastern slope  of  wooded  Craiglockhart  Hill,  2j  miles 
SW  of  Edinburgh.  Haunted  ('tis  said)  by  the  ghost  of 
one  Jacky  Gordon,  it  belonged  to  Sir  William  Dick, 
Knight,  of  Braid,  who,  from  being  Lord  Provost  of  Edin- 
burgh, and  possessor  of  £226,000,  equal  to  £2,000,000 
of  our  present  money,  died  in  the  King's  Bench  a  pauper 


in  1655.     Lons:  after,  it  was  the  residence  of  the  his- 
torian, John  Hill  Burton  (1809-81). 

Craigie,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  Kyle  district,  Ajrr- 
shire.  The  village  stands  4  miles  S  of  Kilmarnock, 
under  which  it  has  a  post  ofiice. 

The  parish,  incluiling  part  of  the  ancient  parish  of 
Barnweill,  was  itself  united  to  Riccarton  till  1647. 
It  is  bounded  N  by  Riccarton,  NE  by  Galston,  E  bv 
INlauchline,  SE  by  Tarbolton,  SW  by  Monkton,  anil 
NW  by  Symington.  Rudely  resembling  a  triangle, 
with  south-westward  apex,  it  has  an  utmost  length  from 
NE  to  SW  of  5|  miles,  an  utmost  breadth  of  4i 
miles,  and  an  area  of  6579J  acres,  of  which  3  are 
water.  Cessxock  Water  winds  1  mile  along  the  Galston 
border  ;  but  the  drainage  is  mostly  carried  southward  or 
south-westward  by  the  Water  of  Fail  and  the  Pow 
Burn.  The  surface  is  undulating,  attaining  507  feet 
above  sea-level  near  Harelaw  in  the  NW,  and  458  near 
Pisgah  in  the  S,  heights  that  command  a  brilliant 
panoramic  view,  away  to  Ben  Lomond,  Jura,  and  the 
Irish  coast.  Coal,  both  bituminous  and  anthracitic, 
has  here  been  mined  in  several  places  and  at  different 
times,  though  never  with  much  success  ;  whilst  the  work- 
ing of  limestone  of  the  finest  quality  has  lately  been  aban- 
doned, chiefly  on  account  of  the  distance  from  railway. 
Great  attention  is  paid  to  dairy -farming,  more  than  half  of 
the  entire  area  being  in  pasture,  whilst  about  170  acres  are 
under  wood.  William  Roxburgh  (1759-1815),  physician 
and  botanist,  was  born  at  Underwood  in  this  parish. 
Its  chief  antiquities  are  artificial  mounds,  which  either 
were  seats  of  justice  or  military  encampments,  and  the 
ruins  of  Craigie  Castle,  \^  mile  WSW  of  the  church.  A 
very  ancient  structure,  this  was  the  seat,  first  of  the 
Lindsays,  and  then  of  the  Wallaces  of  Craigie.  (See 
LocHRTAN  House,  Wigtownshire.)  Mansions  are 
Cairnhill,  Barnweill,  and  Underwood.  Craigie  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayi' ;  the 
living  is  worth  £300.  The  church,  erected  in  1776, 
stands  at  the  village,  as  also  does  a  public  school,  which, 
with  accommodation  for  126  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  40,  and  a  grant  of  £30,  14s. 
Valuation  (1882)  £10,724,  5s.  2d.  Pop.  (1801)  786, 
(1831)  824,  (1861)  730,  (1871)  618,  (1881)  590.— Ort^. 
Hxir.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Craigie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  St  Quivox 
parish,  Ayrshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  Ayr,  and 
1^  mile  E  by  S  of  Ajt  town.  Wallacetown  lies  on  the 
estate,  whose  owner,  Rich.  Fred.  Fothringham  Camp- 
bell, Esq.  (b.  1831  ;  sue.  1860),  holds  2099  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £3770  per  annum. 

Craigie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Dundee  parish, 
Forfarshire,  near  the  Fii-th  of  Tay,  2  miles  E  by  N  of 
Dundee  town.  Its  owner,  David  Chs.  Guthrie,  Esq.  (b. 
1861  ;  sue.  1873),  holds  309  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £979  per  annum. 

Craigie.     See  Perth  and  Belhelvie. 

Craigie,  a  village  in  Caputh  parish,  Perthshire,  4J 
miles  WSW  of  BlairgowTie,  under  w-hich  it  has  a  post 
office. 

Craigie  or  Creagach,  Loch.     See  Borgie. 

Craigiebams.     See  Duxkeld. 

Craigiebuckler.     See  Banchory-Devenick, 

Craigiebum,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  JIoflFat 
parish,  Dumfriesshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  Jloffat 
Water,  2g  mdes  E  of  Mott'at  town.  Craigicljurn  Wood 
was  a  favourite  haunt  of  the  poet  Burns  about  1789,  the 
birthplace  of  Jean  Lorimer,  his  'Chloris.' 

Craigiehall,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  the  SE  of 
Dalmeny  parish,  Linlithgowshire,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Almond,  7  furlongs  W  of  Cramond  Bridge,  and  3J 
miles  W  by  S  of  Davidson's  Mains.  Its  owner,  James 
Charles  Hope  Vere  (b.  1858  ;  sue.  1872),  holds  2217  acres 
in  Mid  and  West  Lothian,  valued  at  £5433  per  annum. 
(See  also  Blackwood,  Lanarkshire. )  The  park  around 
the  mansion  is  finely  wooded  ;  and  the  Almond,  where 
skirting  it,  forms  a  picturesque  cascade  beneath  a  rustic 
bridge.     See  Dalmexy. 

Craigielands,  a  neat  modern  village  in  Kirkpatrick- 
Juxta  parish,  Dumfriesshire,  near  Beattock  station,  and 

295 


CRAIGIEVAR 

2i  miles  SSW  of  Jlottat,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
otfice.  Craigiclands  House,  a  modem  mansion,  is  in  its 
southern  vicinity. 

Craigievar  (Gael,  creagach-bharr,  '  the  rocky  point '), 
a  hamlet  and  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Luniphanan 
and  Leochel-Cushnie  parishes,  central  Aberdeenshire, 
35  and  4g  miles  NNW  of  Lumphauan  station,  this 
heing  27  miles  W  by  S  of  Aberdeen,  under  which  there 
is  a  post  ofiice  of  Craigievar.  The  liamlet  has  a  public 
school ;  and  fairs  for  cattle,  sheep,  and  horses  are  held 
at  it  on  the  Friday  before  the  third  Wednesday  of  April, 
the  Friday  before  26  Jlay  (or  26th,  if  Friday),  the 
Thursday  after  the  last  Tuesday  of  June  0.  s.,  the  day 
of  July  after  St  Sairs,  the  Thursday  after  the  second 
Tuesday  of  August  0.  s.,  and  the  Friday  after  the  first 
Tuesday  of  September  0.  s.  The  estate  belonged  to  the 
Jiortimcrs  from  1457  and  earlier  down  to  1610,  when  it 
was  purchased  by  "William  Forbes  of  Menie  (1566-1627), 
a  cadet  of  the  Forbeses  of  Corse,  who,  '  by  his  diligent 
merchandising  in  Denmark  and  other  parts,  had  become 
extraordinary  rich.'  His  son  and  namesake  (1593- 
1648),  a  zealous  jCovenanter,  and  the  breaker  up  of  the 
freebooter  Gilderoy's  band,  was  created  a  baronet  in 
1630 ;  his  sixth  descendant,  the  present  and  eighth 
baronet,  Sir  William  Forbes  (b.  1836  ;  sue.  1846),  holds 
9347  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £8539  per  annum. 
The  Mortimers  are  said  to  have  commenced  the  castle, 
but  to  have  been  stayed  by  lack  of  funds  ;  by  William 
Forbes  it  was  finished  in  1626.  Built  of  granite,  a  tall, 
narro-n-  clustered  tower,  seven  stories  high,  it  is  in  the 
best  style  of  Flemish  castellated  architecture,  one  of  the 
most  perfect  specimens  extant,  and  as  such  is  figured  in 
five  of  Billings'  i)lates — three  showing  the  exterior  ^vith 
its  corner  tuiTcts,  corbelling,  and  crow-stepped  gables  ; 
one,  the  banqueting  hall,  with  mighty  fireplace,  oaken 
furnishings,  and  '  curiously  plaistered '  ceiling  and 
chimney-iiiece  ;  and  the  fifth,  a  bedroom,  not  so  unlike 
Queen  Mary's  at  Holyrood. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  76,  1874. 
See  vol.  i.  of  Billings'  Baronial  Antiquities  (1845). 

Craiglea,  a  hill  (1737  feet),  with  a  slate  quarry,  in 
Fowlis- Wester  parish,  Pertlisliire,  on  the  Logiealmond 
estate,  6|  miles  NW  of  Methven  Junction.  The  slate 
vein  is  of  excellent  quality;  yields  two  kinds  of  slates, 
the  one  dark  blue,  the  other  of  a  sea-green  hue  ;  and  has 
long  been  worked  to  the  extent  of  above  1,200,000  slates 
a  year. 

Craigleith,  an  islet  of  North  Berwick  parish,  Had- 
dingtonshire, 1  mile  N  of  North  Berwick  town.  Measur- 
ing 14  by  1  furlong,  it  rises  to  a  height  of  80  feet ; 
consists  of  greenstone,  bare  and  barren ;  and  is  inhabited 
only  by  rabbits,  jackdaws,  and  sea-fowl.  In  1814  Sir 
Hew  Dalrymple  bought  it  from  the  Town  Council  for 
£400. 

Craigleith,  an  extensive  sandstone  quarry  near  the 
W  border  of  St  Cuthberts  parish,  Edinburghshire,  J 
mile  E  of  Blackball  village,  and  2  miles  W  bj'  N  of 
Edinburgh  ;  close  to  it  is  Craigleith  station  on  the  Leith 
branch  of  the  Caledonian.  Belonging  to  the  upper 
group  of  the  Calciferous  Sandstone  scries,  it  i)rcsent3  a 
deep  excavation  12  acres  in  area,  and  longsu]i)>]ied  most 
of  the  stone  with  which  the  New  Town  of  Edinburgh 
was  built,  its  original  rental  of  only  £50  rising  to 
£5500  during  the  great  building  ))criod  in  Edinburgh, 
from  1820  till  1S2G.  The  Craigleith  stone  is  of  two 
kinds — the  one  of  a  fine  cream  colour,  called  liver  rock  ; 
the  other  of  a  greyish  white,  called  feak  rock.  Three 
trunks  of  great  fossil  coniferous  trees  have  been  here 
discovered. 

Craigleoch,  a  cliff  on  the  western  verge  of  Rattray 
parisli,  rerthshire,  at  a  very  romantic  gorge  in  the 
chaiiml  of  tlie  river  Ericht,  a  little  al)ovc  Craigjiall. 

Craiglockhart,  an  ancient  baronial  fortalice  in  Lanark 
ptirish,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  Mouse  Water, 
opposite  Jerviswood.  It  jirobably  was  erected  by  some 
remote  ancestor  of  the  Lockliarts  of  Lee  ;  but  it  figures 
very  slightly  in  either  records  or  tradition  ;  and  it  now 
is  a  ruined,  lofty,  pictures(|Ue  tower. 

Craiglockhart,  a  wooiled  basaltic  hill  in  Colinton 
parish,  Jlidlothian,  I  mile  ESE  of  Slateford,  and  2.J 
296 


CRAIGMILLAR  CASTLE 

miles  SW  by  W  of  Edinburgh.  Attaining  a  height  of 
550  feet  above  sea-level,  it  commands  a  wide  westward 
view,  awaj^  to  the  frontier  Grampians  ;  at  its  base  is  a 
skating-pond,  formed  in  1873  by  Mr  Cox  of  the  Edin- 
burgh Gymnasium.  It  got  its  name  from  the  neigh- 
bouring square  tower  or  keep,  built  by  an  ancestor  of 
the  Lockliarts  of  Lee  about  the  middle  of  the  13th 
century,  and  now  rejiresented  by  only  the  basement 
arched  story  ;  and  in  turn  it  has  given  name  to  a  man- 
sion, a  poorhouse,  an  Established  mission  church,  and 
a  hydropathic  establishment,  in  its  vicinity.  The 
mansion,  built  about  1823,  stands  between  the  hill  and 
Slateford,  on  the  verge  of  a  wooded  bank,  sloping  down 
to  the  Water  of  Leith.  The  Edinburgh  Poorhouse,  at 
the  back  or  SE  of  the  hill,  was  built  in  1869,  and,  as 
enlarged  in  1878,  has  accommodation  for  827  inmates. 
The  church,  an  iron  one,  opened  in  1880,  is  near  the  old 
tower,  as  this  again  is  near  the  hydropathic  establish- 
ment, which  occupies  a  commanding  site  to  the  SW  of  the 
hill,  and  which,  designed  by  Alessrs  Peddie  &  Kinnear, 
was  erected  during  1878-80,  being  a  plain  but  dignified 
edifice,  rustic  Italian  in  style,  with  central  tower,  slightly 
projecting  wings,  and  accommodation  for  200  visitors. 

Craigluscar,  a  hill  (744  feet)  in  Dimfennline  parish, 
Fife,  3  miles  NW  of  Dunfermline  town.  A  limestone 
quarry  near  its  summit  exhibits  a  bed  of  trap  interjposed 
between  two  of  limestone. 

Craiglush,  a  loch  (2  x  ^  mile)  in  Caputh  parish,  E 
Perthshire,  traversed  by  Lunan  13urn,  which  runs  from 
it  1  furlong  south-south-eastward  to  the  beautiful  Loch 
of  Lows. 

Craigmaddie,  an  estate  in  Baldernock  and  Strathblane 
parishes,  Stirlingshire,  2  miles  NE  of  Milngavie.  It 
contains  a  stately  modern  mansion  ;  a  fragmentary  ruin 
of  the  moated  tower  of  the  Galbraiths,  dating  from  1238 
or  earlier  ;  a  group  of  cairns,  alleged  to  mark  the  scene 
of  a  battle  between  the  Danes  and  the  Picts  ;  that 
singular  cromlech  known  as  the  Auld  Wives'  Lift  ;  a 
lake  of  about  10  acres  ;  a  fine  expanse  of  park  and  wood ; 
and  an  extensive  moor,  rising  to  an  altitude  of  633  feet, 
and  going  into  junction  with  Craigend  Aloor. 

Craigmark,  a  mining  village  in  Dalmellington  parish, 
Ayrshire,  1  j  mile  NNW  of  Dalmellington  town.  Pop. 
(1861)  543, (1871)  616, (1881) 383. 

Craigmarloch,  a  small  village  on  the  mutual  border 
of  Kilsyth  parish,  Stirlingshire,  and  Cumbernauld 
parish ,  Dumbartonshii'e. 

Craigmile,  an' estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kincardine 
O'Neil  parish,  S  Aberdeenshire,  1^  mile  E  of  Torphins 
station. 

Craigmill,  a  small  village  in  the  Clackmannanshire 
section  of  Logic  parish,  at  the  southern  base  of  Abbey 
Craig.  It  formerly  was  notorious  for  the  smuggling  of 
whisky. 

Craigmill.     See  Rattuay. 

Craigmillar  Castle,  a  grand  old  ruin  in  Liberton 
parish,  Midlothian,  3  miles  SE  of  I'^dinburgh.  Crown- 
ing the  brow  of  a  gentle  eminence,  it  commands  from  its 
topmost  roof  a  magnificent  view  of  Arthur's  Seat,  the  S 
side  of  the  city,  the  firth  and  the  shores  of  Fife,  Aber- 
lady  Bay,  and  the  Pentlands ;  and  itself  consists  of  a 
lofty  square  keep  or  tower,  an  inner  ivy-clad  court,  and 
a  quadrangular  embattled  wall,  30  feet  high,  with 
circular  corner  towers — the  whole  engirt  by  an  outer 
rampart  or  else,  in  places,  by  a  moat.  The  '  new  part,' 
to  the  W,  was  added  so  late  as  1661  ;  the  keep  must  be 
older  than  1427  (the  earliest  date  preserved) ;  but  much 
of  the  building,  as  it  stands  to-day,  was  reared  most 
likely  after  its  burning  by  Hertford  in  1544.  '  On  the 
boundary  wall,'  says  Sir  Walter  Scott,  'may  be  seen 
the  arms  of  Cockburn  of  Ormiston,  C'ongalton  of  Con- 
galton,  ]\loul)ray  of  Barnbouglc,  and  Otterl)urn  of  Red- 
ford,  allies  of  the  Prestonsof  Craigmillar  ;  whilst  in  one 
corner  of  the  outer  court,  over  a  ])ortal  arch,  are  the 
arms  of  the  family,  three  unicorns'  heads  couped,  with 
a  cheese-i>ress  and  barrel  or  tun,  a  wretched  rebus  to 
express  their  name ' — this  sculptured  fragment  bearing 
date  1510.  Within  are  the  noisome  diniu'fons,  in  whose 
partition  wall  a  skeleton  was  found  bricked  up  (lil3); 


CRAIGMORE 

the  kitchen,  with  mighty  oven  ;  Queen  Mary's  bower, 
■\rith  two  or  three  dubious  relics  ;  her  bedchamber, 
measuring  but  7  by  5  feet,  yet  having  two  \vindows  and 
a  fireplace  ;  and  the  great  banqueting  hall,  36  feet  long, 
and  22  feet  broad,  with  walls  10  feet  in  thickness, 
chimney  11  feet  wide,  a  barrel-vaulted  roof,  and  deep 
embrasured  windows,  on  the  stone  seat  of  one  of  which 
may  be  faintly  traced  a  diagram  of  the  old  game  of  the 
'  Walls  of  Troy. '  The  name  of  this  place  occurs  pretty 
early  in  the  national  records,  in  a  charter  of  mortifica- 
tion granted  in  1212  by  William,  son  of  Henry  de 
Craigmillar,  whereby  he  gives,  '  in  pure  and  perpetual 
alms,'  to  the  church  and  monastery  of  Dunfermline,  a 
certain  toft  of  land  in  Craigmillar,  in  the  southern  part 
leading  from  the  town  of  Xidreif  to  the  church  of 
Liberton,  which  Henry  de  Edmonton  holds  of  him. 
Later,  Craigmillar  belonged  to  one  John  de  Capella,  and 
from  him  it  was  purchased  in  1374  by  Sir  Simon 
Preston,  whose  descendants  retained  it  for  nearly  three 
centuries,  and,  during  that  pei'iod  held  the  highest 
offices  in  the  magistracy  of  EtUnburgh.  In  1478  John, 
Earl  of  ilar,  'ane  fair  and  lustie  man,'  was  here  im- 
prisoned b}'  James  III. ,  his  brother,  and  only  removed 
to  meet  his  doom  by  treacherous  lancet  in  the  Canon- 
gate  ;  and  James  V.,  with  Gawin  Douglas,  his  tutor, 
was  sent  here  during  his  minority,  when  the  pest  was 
raging  in  Edinburgh.  Queen  Marj^,  after  her  return 
in  1561,  made  Craigmillar  so  frequent  a  residence, 
that  a  neighboui'ing  hamlet,  where  her  French  retinue 
lodged,  retains  to  this  day  the  name  of  Little  France  ; 
in  December  1566  we  read  of  her  lying  here  sick, 
and  ever  repeating  these  words,  *  I  could  ■wish  to  be 
dead. '  Here,  too,  in  the  same  month,  her  divorce  from 
Darnley  was  mooted  by  Both  well,  Murray,  Le  thing- 
ton,  Argyll,  and  Huntly,  in  the  so-called  '  Conference 
of  Craigmillar,' and  propounded  to  Mary  herself;  and 
to  Craigmillar  it  was  at  fii'st  proposed  to  have  Darnley 
conveyed,  instead  of  to  Kirk  of  Field.  Mary's  son, 
James  VI. ,  is  said  to  have  planned  at  Craigmillar  his 
matrimonial  excursion  to  Denmark;  and  Mary's  de- 
scendant. Queen  Victoria,  in  1842  drove  by  its  ruins, 
which  have  been  sketched  and  Avi'itten  of  by  'fat,  fodgel' 
Grose,  Sir  Walter  Scott,  Thomson  of  Duddingston,  Sir 
Thomas  Dick  Lauder,  Hill  Burton,  and  many  others. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  32,  1857.  See  vol.  i.  of  Billings' 5aro«iaZ 
Antiquities  (ISio),  a.n.^  Historical  Sketches  of  Craigmillar 
Castle  (Edinb.  1875). 

Craigmore,  a  precipitous  hill,  1271  feet  high,  in  Aber- 
foyle  parish,  Perthshire,  flanking  the  Laggan's  northern 
bank,  and  culminating  1  mile  XW  of  Aberfoyle  hamlet. 

Craigmore.     See  Bex-ax-Armuinn. 

CTaig-na-Ban,  a  roimded,  granitic,  fir-clad  hiU  (1736 
feet)  in  Crathie  and  Braemar  parish,  SW  Aberdeenshire, 
1|  miie  SE  of  Abergeldie.  On  it,  to  save  his  own  life, 
a  wizard  is  said  to  have  hunted  do^^m  a  -n-itch  and  handed 
her  over  to  justice  ;  and  on  it  Prince  Frederick  William 
of  Prussia  gave  the  piece  of  white  heather  (emblem  of 
good  luck)  to  the  Princess  Royal  on  the  day  of  their 
betrothal,  29  Sept.  1855. 

Craig-na-Faoilinn,  a  stupendous  crag,  934  feet  high, 
in  Durness  parish,  Sutherland,  overhanging  the  public 
road  at  the  head  of  Loch  Eriboll,  near  the  mouth  of 
Strath  Beg. 

Craignafeile,  a  stack  or  rocky  tower-like  islet  off  the 
NE  coast  of  the  Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness-shire,  near  a 
cascade  falling  to  the  sea,  in  the  vicinity  of  Loch  Staffin. 
It  presents  some  resemblance  to  a  statue  in  Highland 
costume ;  hence  the  name  crcag-na-fheilidh,  '  the  rock  of 
the  kilt.' 

Craignaiolar  or  Creag  na  h-Iolaire  (Gael,  'eagle's 
crag'),  a  rocky  hill  (1750  feet)  projecting  from  a  moun- 
tain range,  in  Duthil  parish,  Elginshire,  3:^  miles  NNW 
of  the  parish  church.  It  has  several  fissures,  one  of 
which,  near  the  western  extremity,  cuts  it  sharply  from 
top  to  bottom.     See  also  Bex-ax-Armuinx. 

Craignair.     See  Buittle. 

Craigneil,  an  ancient  fortalice  in  Colmonell  parish, 
SW  Ayrshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Stincliar,  7  fur- 
longs S  of  Colmonell  village.     Built  in  the  13th  century, 


CRAIGNISH 

it  was  a  hiding-place  of  Robert  Bruce  ;  was  afterwards 
a  feudal  prison  and  place  of  execution  ;  and  is  now  a 
picturesque  ruin,  crowning  a  rock}-  mount,  and  com- 
manding a  view  of  the  Stinchar's  valley  from  Penmore 
to  Knockdolian. 

Craignethan,  a  ruined  castle  or,  rather,  fortified 
manor-house,  in  Lesmahagow  parish,  Lanarkshire,  ^ 
mile  ENE  of  Tillietudlem  station  on  the  Lesmahagow 
branch  of  the  Caledonian,  and  5i  miles  WXW  of  Lanark- 
It  stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Xethan,  1|-  mile 
above  its  influx  near  Crossford  village  to  the  Clyde  ;  and 
is  said  to  have  been  rebuilt  by  the  celebrated  architect. 
Sir  James  Hamilton  of  Fynnart,  commonly  kno^vn  as 
the  Bastard  of  Arran.  He  was  beheaded  in  1540,  but 
three  years  later  the  family  estates  were  restored  to  his 
son.  Sir  James  Hamilton  of  Evandale.  Popularly  iden- 
fied  with  the  '  Tillietudlem  '  of  Old  Mortality,  Craig- 
nethan, to  quote  James  Hunnewell's  Lands  of  Scott 
(1871),  'is  a  mere  shell  and  wreck  of  its  former  self; 
yet,  like  most  ruined  castles,  it  is  not  wanting  in 
pictm-esqueness  and  romance.  It  is  approached  by  a 
road  like  that  described  in  the  novel — jsteep,  winding, 
and  stony,  and  leading  through  a  ford  of  the  Nethan. 
This  is  a  shallow  stream,  flowing  over  a  rocky  bed,  and 
bending  around  a  point  that  rises,  with  grey  crags  and 
steep,  gi'ass  or  tree  clad  banks,  to  a  commanding  eleva- 
tion, on  which  is  the  castle,  built  of  sandstone,  now 
faded  and  weather-worn.  The  extent  of  Craignethan 
once  was  great ;  even  now  there  is  a  large  garden  -nithin 
its  walls.  The  keep,  at  the  outer  or  river  side,  is  very 
ruinous  ;  and  indeed  the  whole  structure  is  much  dila- 
pidated, large  quantities  of  materials  having  been  taken 
from  it  for  the  construction  of  ignoble  buildings.  But 
there  can  still  be  found  in  it  many  picturesque  combina- 
tions of  wall  and  tower,  of  stone-arched  ceiling,  or  of 
broken  vaulting,  streaming  with  graceful  ivy-sprays,  or 
of  shattered  battlements,  garlanded  with  shrubbery. 
A  story  told  of  many  old  residences  is  told  of  this : 
Queen  Mary  is  said  to  have  occupied,  dm'ing  several 
days  before  the  battle  of  Langside,  a  large  hall,  yet 
partly  existing,  and  called  the  Queen's  Room.  Craig- 
nethan has  been  an  important  fortress,  held  by  Hamil- 
tons,  by  Haj's,  and  by  Douglases.  The  scenery  around 
it  has  some  degree  of  grandeur  as  well  as  beauty  ;  and 
Sir  Walter,  on  his  visit  in  1799,  was  so  much  pleased 
with  the  place,  that  the  proprietor  oflered  him  use  for 
life  of  a  small  house  within  the  walls.  I  was  told  that 
the  novel  is  commemorated  here  by  quite  a  large  periodi- 
cal festivity,  held  bv  the  families  of  farmers  and  others, 
and  called  the  Tillietudlem  Ball. '— C/rcZ.  Sur.,  sh.  23, 
1865.  See  also  J.  B.  Greenshield's  Annals  of  the  Parish 
of  Lesmahagoiu  (Edinb.  1864). 

Craigneuk,  a  mining  Aillage  in  Dalziel  parish,  Lanark- 
shire, If  mile  WXW  of  Wishaw,  and  If  ESE  of 
Motherwell.  Forming  since  1874  part  of  Wishaw  police 
burgh,  it  has  a  Primitive  Methodist  chapel,  a  small 
Roman  Catholic  school,  and  a  pubKc  school.  Pop. 
(1S61)  716,  (1871)  1377,  (1881)  2330. 

Craignish,  a  South  Argyll  parish  on  the  W  coast  of 
Argyllshire,  adjoining  the  steamboat  route  from  Glas- 
gow, via  the  Crinan  Canal,  to  Oban,  and  containing  the 
hartdet  of  Ardfern,  -nnth  a  post  oflice  under  Lochgilp- 
head, 18  miles  to  the  SE.  It  anciently  was  called 
indiscriminately  Kilmorie  and  Craignish,  and  it  retains 
a  burial-ground  and  a  ruined  chapel,  still  bearing  the 
name  of  Kilmliori.  Its  south-south-western  half  is  pen- 
insidar,  and  its  entire  outline  approaches  that  of  a 
scalene  triangle,  with  south-south-westward  vertex.  Its 
peninsula  is  bounded  E  by  Loch  Craignish  and  W  by 
the  Atlantic  Ocean  ;  on  its  other  sides  the  parish  bor- 
ders on  Kilninver,  Kilchrenan,  and  Kilmartin.  Its 
greatest  length,  from  NXE  to  SSW,  is  11  miles,  and 
its  average  breadth  is  about  2  miles.  The  extent  of 
coast  is  fully  16  miles.  Loch  Craignish,  o]iening  from 
the  lower  part  of  tlie  NE  side  of  Loch  Crinan,  pene- 
trates 6  miles  to  the  XNE,  and  diminishes  in  width  from 
3  miles  at  the  mouth  to  7  furlongs  near  the  head,  where 
it  forms  a  commodious  harbour,  with  good  anchorage. 
Craitruish  Point  Hanks  the  W  side  of  the  loch's  mouth, 
^  297 


CRAIGNOOK 

and  terminates  the  parish's  peninsula ;  and  both  that 
point  and  the  small  neighbouring  island  of  Garbhreisa 
are  faced  A\-ith  cliffs.  A  sti-ait,  called  Dorusmore  or  the 
Great  Door,  between  Craignish  Point  and  Garbhreisa,  is 
swept  by  a  rapid  tidal  current,  but  has  a  deep  channel, 
and  is  usually  traversed  by  the  steamers  from  Port  Crinan 
to  Oban.  Abreast  of  the  mainland,  chiefly  in  the  S  and 
within  Loch  Craignish,  are  upwards  of  twenty  islands 
and  numerous  islets  and  rocks,  serried  round  with  ro- 
mantic cliffs.  The  peninsula  commences,  in  the  south- 
south-western  extremity,  in  a  near  point ;  extends 
to  a  length  of  about  6  miles  ;  widens  gradually  to  2J 
miles  ;  swells,  on  the  eastern  side,  into  numerous  green 
eminences  of  300  feet  and  less  in  elevation  ;  has,  along 
Loch  Craignish  shore,  a  narrow  strip  of  land ;  and  is 
cut  there  into  numerous  little  headlands  and  winding 
baylets.  A  flat  tract,  less  than  J  mile  broad,  and  very 
slightly  elevated  above  the  sea ;  extends  from  the 
western  shore  across  the  head  of  the  peninsula  to  a 
rivulet  in  the  E,  running  along  the  boundary  with 
Kilmartin.  The  district  N  of  that  tract  is  partly  a 
section  of  the  valley  of  Barbreck,  extending  upward 
from  the  head  of  Loch  Craignish,  and  mainly  a  rugged, 
heathy,  hilly  region,  attaining  an  extreme  altitude  of 
700  feet  above  sea-level,  and  commanding,  from  its 
higher  points,  extensive  and  diversified  views.  There 
are  twelve  lakes,  many  rills,  and  numerous  perennial 
springs.  The  prevailing  rock  is  claj^  slate.  The  soil  of 
the  arable  grounds  is  principally  a  loamy  mould,  less 
fertile  than  it  looks  to  be.  Much  good  land,  or  land 
which  might  be  profitably  reclaimed,  lies  waste.  Re- 
mains of  a  large,  strong,  mediaeval  fortalice  are  near  the 
north-western  boundary  ;  and  vestiges  of  rude  forts, 
supposed  to  be  Scandinavian,  are  in  eleven  places. 
Craignish  Castle,  standing  on  the  peninsula,  2^  miles 
from  the  point,  includes  a  strong  old  fortalice,  which 
withstood  a  six  weeks'  siege  by  Colkitto,  but  is  mostly 
a  good  modern  mansion,  rebuilt  about  1832  ;  its  owner, 
Fred.  Chs.  Trench-Gascoigne  (b.  1814),  holds  5591  acres 
in  the  shii-e,  valued  at  £1013  per  annum.  Other  man- 
sions are  Bakbukck  and  Dail  ;  and  the  property  is 
divided  among  6  landowners,  3  holding  each  an  annual 
value  of  £r00  and  upwards,  2  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  and  1  of  from  £50  to  £100.  Craignish  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Inverary  and  synod  of  Argyll ;  the  living 
is  worth  £215.  The  church,  8  miles  NW  of  Kilmartin, 
was  erected  in  1826,  is  a  neat  edifice,  and  contains  500 
sittings.  There  is  also  a  Free  Churcb  preaching  station. 
Craignish  public  and  Barbreck  girls'  schools,  with  re- 
spective accommodation  for  85  and  41  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  35  and  33,  and  gi-ants 
of  £43,  10s.  6d.  and  £41,  4s.  Valuation  (1882)  £3889, 
12s.  Id.  Pop.  (1801)  904,  (1831)  892,  (1861)  618,  (1871) 
481,  (1881)451. 

Craignook.    See  Craigneuk. 

Craignure,  a  hamlet  in  Torosay  parish.  Mull  island, 
Argyllshire,  on  a  small  bay  of  its  own  name,  at  the  SE 
end  of  the  Sound  of  Mull,  2\  miles  NW  of  Achnacraig. 
It  has  an  inn,  a  post-office  under  Oban,  and  a  steamboat 
pier. 

Craigo,  a  village,  with  a  public  school,  in  Logiepert 
parish,  Forfarshire,  on  the  North  Esk's  right  bank,  with 
a  station  on  the  Aberdeen  section  of  the  Caledonian,  3^ 
miles  NNW  of  Dubton  Junction,  and  6^  NNW  of 
Jlontrose.  Craigo  House,  Ih  mile  S  by  E  of  Craigo 
station,  is  the  property  of  Thos.  Macpherson-Grant, 
Esq.,  W.S.  (b.  1815;  sue.  his  cousin,  Thos.  Carnegy, 
Esq.,  1856),  who  holds  4713  acres  in  the  .shire,  valued  at 
£7082  per  annum.  Pop.  of  village  (1861)  359,  (1871) 
376,  (1881)  124,  a  decrease  due  to  the  stoppage  of  a  flax 
.spinning-mill  and  a  bleachfield.     See  Logikpkut. 

Craigoch,  a  ])urn  in  Portpatrick  parish,  Wigtownshire, 
running  4  miles  west-south-westward  to  the  North  Chan- 
nel at  Dunskcy  Castle,  5  furlongs  SSE  of  Portpatrick 
town.  It  KUii]ilios  a  small  artificial  lake,  stocked  with 
trout,  in  the  vicinity  of  Dunskey  House. 

Craigowl.     See  Glammi.s. 

Craigphadrick,  a  wa«ded  hill  in  Inverness  parish, 
Inverne-sshire,  between  Beauly  Firth  and  the  valley  of 
208 


CRAIGSTON  CASTLE 

the  Ness,  If  mile  W  of  Inverness  tovra.  Terminating  th  3 
north-western  hill-flank  of  the  Great  Glen  of  Scotland, 
it  rises  to  an  altitude  of  430  feet  above  sea-level ;  and 
its  rocky  tabular  summit  is  crowned  with  a  double- 
walled,  rectangular  vitrified  fort,  240  feet  long  and  90 
wide,  which  commands  an  extensive  view.  The  palace 
of  King  Brude,  near  the  river  Ness,  which  Columba 
visited  in  565,  was  by  Dr  Reeves  identified  vdih  Craig- 
phadrick ;  but  Skene  observes  that  '  it  seems  unlikely 
that  in  the  6th  century  a  royal  i)alace  should  have  been 
in  a  vitrified  fort,  on  the  top  of  a  roclcy  hill  nearly  500 
feet  high,  and  it  is  certainly  inconsistent  with  Adamnan's 
narrative  that  the  vSaint  .should  have  had  to  ascend  such 
an  eminence  to  reach  it'  {Cellic  Scotland,  ii.  106,  note, 
1877). 

Craigrie,  a  village  in  the  parish  and  5  furlongs  WSW 
of  the  town  of  Clackmannan. 

Craig  Rossie,  a  green  hill  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Auchterarder  and  Dunning  parishes,  Perthshire,  2^  miles 
E  by  S  of  Auchterarder  town.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
conspicuous  of  the  Ochils,  rising  to  an  altitude  of  1250 
feet  above  sea-level. 

Craigrostan.    See  Craigrotston. 

Craigrothie,  a  village,  -n-ith  a  public  school,  in  Ceres 
parish,  Fife,  IJ  mile  WSW  of  Ceres  town.  It  is  a 
burgh  of  barony,  governed  by  a  bailie  and  councillors. 
Pop.  (1861)  308,  (1881)  192. 

Craigrownie,  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Roseneath 
parish,  Dumbartonshire,  comprising  the  police  burgh  of 
Cove  and  Kilcreggan.  It  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dum- 
barton and  sjniod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  the  stipend  is 
£120.  Its  church  stands  at  the  E  side  of  the  entrance 
to  Long  Loch,  near  Barons  Point ;  in  its  vicinity  is 
Craigro\vnie  Castle.  Pop.  (1871)  1103,  (1881)  1136. 
See  Cove  and  Kilcreggan. 

Craigroy,  an  eminence  in  the  W  centre  of  Ross-shire, 
5  miles  ESE  of  the  head  of  Loch  Maree. 

Craigroyston  or  Rob  Roy's  Cave,  a  cavern  in  Buchanan 
parish,  Stirlingshire,  at  the  E  side  of  Loch  Lomond,  7 
furlongs  N  by  W  of  Inversnaid.  It  occurs,  within  a  steep 
rugged  rock,  a  little  above  the  water's  edge ;  is  wild  and 
deep  ;  and  has  a  narrow  entrance,  partly  concealed  by 
fallen  blocks.  Robert  Bruce  spent  a  night  in  it  after 
the  battle  of  Dalrj' ;  and  Rob  Roy  frequented  it  as  a 
place  of  consultation  with  his  subalterns  for  planning 
his  raids. 

Craigs,  a  hamlet  in  Liberton  parish,  Edinburghshire, 
5  furlfyigs  NE  of  Liberton  village. 

Craigs.     See  Duntocher. 

Craigs,  a  mansion  in  the  parish  and  2  mUes  ESE  of 
the  town  of  Dumfries. 

Craigs,  Stirlingshire.     See  Rum  ford. 

Craigskean,  an  old  baronial  fortalice,  now  reduced  to 
a  ruinous  frngment,  in  Maybole  parish,  Ayrshire. 

Craigs  of  Blebo.    See  Blebo  Craigs. 

Craigs  of  Coyle.    See  Coyltox. 

Craigs  of  Ness,  a  rocky  gorge  on  the  mutual  border 
of  Straiton  and  Dalmellington  parishes,  Ayrshire,  in  the 
course  of  the  river  Doon,  immediately  below  its  efflux 
from  Loch  Doon.  Cliffs  on  each  side,  230  feet  high,  are 
richly  clothed  with  shrubs  and  trees,  and  form  so  close 
a  gorge  as  to  leave  a  width  of  not  more  than  4  or  5 
yards  for  the  fretting  current  of  the  river. 

CraigspajTOW,  a  hilly  section  of  Newburgh  parish, 
Fife,  projecting  southward  from  the  main  body  of  the 
parish,  and  rising  to  an  altitude  of  about  600  feet  above 
sea-level. 

Craigston.     See  Barra. 

Craigston  Castle,  a  mansion  in  King-Edward  parish, 
NW  Al)crdeenshire,  4^  miles  NNE  of  Turriff.  Founded 
in  1004-7  by  John  Urquhart,  Tutor  of  Cromarty,  it  con- 
sisted originally  of  a  central  tower  and  tAvo  projecting 
wings,  but  was  so  altered  by  connecting  archwork  as  to 
be  made  quadrangular,  and  is  now  an  interesting  edifice, 
with  beautiful  grounds  and  plantations  ;  among  its  por- 
traits are  three  by  Jameson  and  four  of  the  dethroned 
Stuarts.  The  present  owner,  Francis  Edward  Romulus 
Polhud-Uniuhart  (b-  1S48  ;  sue.  1871),  holds  3998  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2856  per  annum. 


CRAIGTHORNHILL 


CRAIL 


Craigthornhill,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Glas- 
ford  parish,  Lanarksliire,  5  miles  S  by  E  of  Hamilton. 

Craigton.     See  Peteeculter. 

Craigton,  a  village  in  IMonikie  parish,  Forfarshire,  5 
miles  "SVNW  of  Carnoustie,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office. 

Craigton,  an  estate,  with  an  old  mansion  and  a  bleach- 
iield,  in  the  Dumbartonshire  section  of  New  Kilpatiick 
parish.  The  mansion  stands  near  the  eastern  base  of 
the  Kilpatrick  Hills,  3J  miles  NE  of  Duntocher ;  is  a 
large  edifice  of  1635 ;  and  has  been  converted  into 
domiciles  for  the  operatives  of  the  bleaclifield.  The 
bleachfield  lies  on  Craigton  Burn,  a  rivulet  rising 
on  the  Kilpatrick  Hills,  and  running  3 J  miles  south- 
eastward to  the  Allander ;  and  contains  all  appliances 
for  the  best  treatment  of  yarns.  A  public  school 
adjoins  it. 

Craigton,  a  village  in  Airlie  parish,  "W  Forfarshire,  4 
miles  S\V  by  W  of  Kirriemuir.     See  Airlie. 

Craigton,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Abercoru 
parish,  Linlithgowshire,  2  miles  NW  of  Winchburgh 
station. 

CraiguUian,  a  loch  in  Strathldane  parish,  SW  Stir- 
lingshire, If  mile  WSW  of  Strathblane  village.  "With 
an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  3|  and  1 J  fui'longs,  it 
lies  380  feet  above  sea-level,  on  a  j^lateau  that  terminates 
in  an  imposing  range  of  basaltic  columns,  popularly 
called  the  Pillar  Craig. 

Craig  Vinean,  a  long,  wild,  wooded  ridge  of  hill  in 
Little  Dunkeld  parish,  Perthshire,  between  the  con- 
fluent Tay  and  Bran,  culminating  1§  mile  W  of  Inver 
village,  at  1247  feet  above  sea-leveL  Diversified  all 
over  with  rocky  protuberances,  sharp  undidations,  and 
deep  hollows,  it  both  contains  charming  close  views 
within  its  ovm  recesses,  and  commands  wide  prospects 
from  its  vantage-grounds  ;  and  it  forms  a  romantic 
feature  in  the  envii'ons  of  Dunkeld. 

Craigwood,  a  pyramidal  hill  (558  feet),  with  a  terrace 
around  it,  in  Dunkeld  parish,  Perthshire,  a  little  to  the 
E  of  Dunkeld  town.  It  commands  a  very  fine  view  of 
Dunkeld,  and  of  the  mountain-passes  diverging  thence. 

Crail,  a  seaport  town  and  a  parish  of  the  East  Neuk 
of  Fife.  A  royal  and  parliamentary  burgh,  the  town  is 
picturesquely  situated  in  a  gullj!",  beyond  which  the  red- 
roofed  houses  rise  again.  It  is  2-|  miles  WSW  of  Fife 
Ness,  10  SE  of  St  Andrews,  and  4^  NE  of  Anstruther 
station,  this  being  38f  miles  NE  of  Edinburgh  ;  and  on 
the  Anstruther  and  St  Andrews  railway,  now  (1882)  in 
course  of  construction,  it  is  to  have  a  station  of  its  own. 
It  dates  from  remote  times,  figuring  so  far  back  as  the 
first  half  of  the  9th  century  as  a  seat  of  commerce  with 
the  Netherlands,  an  important  fishing  and  fish-curing 
station.  And  still  it  retains  an  old-woiid  character ;  still 
down  towards  the  sea  rise  massive,  antique  dwelling- 
houses  ;  and  though  the  gates  are  gone,  the  name  of 
'  2)orts '  preserves  their  memory.  A  royal  castle  or 
palace,  the  occasional  residence  of  David  I.  (1124-53), 
surmounted  the  low  cliff  a  little  E  of  the  harbour,  but, 
excepting  the  merest  fragment  of  a  wall,  has  wholly  dis- 
appeared. So  old,  however,  is  the  parish  church,  that 
many  have  fancied  the  '  sair  Sanct '  himself  may  have 
prayed  ^^ithin  its  walls — a  fancy  forbidden  by  the  style 
(Second  Pointed)  of  its  architecture.  As  repaired  in 
1828,  it  contains  900  sittings,  and  consists  of  an  aisled 
nave,  80  feet  long ;  a  chancel,  reduced  from  55  to  22§ 
feet ;  and  a  western  tower,  with  stunted  octagonal 
spire.  The  SW  porch  has  been  destroyed,  but  the 
dedication  cross  is  yet  decipherable  on  the  walls,  into 
which  has  been  built  a  far  more  ancient  cross,  sculp- 
tured with  animals  and  other  emblems.  Till  1517 
this  church  of  St  Macrubha  was  held  by  Haddington 
Cistercian  nunnery,  whose  prioress,  with  Sir  William 
ilyreton,  then  made  it  collegiate,  for  a  provost,  ten  pre- 
bendaries, a  sacrist,  and  choristers.  On  9  June  1559, 
John  Knox,  attended  by  a  'rascal  multitude,'  preached 
from  its  pulpit  his  Perth  'idolatrous  sermon,'  with  the 
usual  outcome  of  pillage  and  demolition  ;  and  to  it  in 
1648  the  Earl  of  Crawford  presented  James  Sharp,  arch- 
bishop that  was  to  be.     The  castle  had  a  chapel  dedi- 


Seal  of  Crail. 


cated  to  St  Rufus  ;  and  the  site  of  another,  at  the  beach 
to  the  E  of  the  town,  is  known  as  the  Prior  Walls.  A 
Free  church  and  a  U.P.  church  are  in  the  town,  which 
further  has  a  neat  town-hall,  a  post  office,  with  money 
order,  savings'  baidc,  and  telegraph  departments,  a  branch 
of  the  Commercial  Bank,  a  local  savings'  bank,  7  insur- 
ance agencies,  a  public  library,  a  principal  inn,  two 
public  schools,  a  brewery,  and  gas-works.  The  neigh- 
bouring golf  links  are  small  and  uneven,  gi'eatly  inferior 
to  those  of  Balcomie,  IJ  mile  further  to  the  eastward. 
The  harbour  is  hard  to  enter,  and  neither  the  oldest  nor 
the  best ;  for  the  ancient  havi-n,  Roome  Bay,  i  mile 
eastward,  is  naturally  larger  and  better  sheltered,  and 
could,  at  comparatively  trifling  cost,  be  converted  into 
a  deep,  safe,  and  accessible  anchorage  for  fully  200  ves- 
sels. But  at  present  Ci-ail's  commerce  comprises  little 
more  than  import  of  coals,  and  the  export  of  grain  and 
potatoes,  for  a  small 
surrounding  district ; 
and  the  harbour  re- 
venue was  only  £82  in 
1867,  £134  in  1874, 
£190  in  1880,  and 
£126  in  1881.  Fish- 
ing is  carried  on  to  a 
noticeable  extent,  but 
to  an  extent  much  less 
than  at  some  other 
towns  and  villages  of 
Fife,  or  indeed  at  Crail 
itself  in  the  days  when 
its  sun-dried  haddocks 
were  widely  famous  as 
'  Crail  capons. '  Of  late 
years  Crail  has  become  a  favourite  resort  of  summer 
visitors,  for  whose  accommodation  several  handsome 
villas  have  been  built.  The  burgh,  first  chartered  by 
Robert  the  Bruce  in  1306,  is  governed  by  a  provost,  2 
bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  5  other  councillors  ;  with  St 
Andrews,  Oupar,  Kilrenny,  the  two  Anstruthers,  and 
Pittenweem,  it  retm-ns  a  member  to  parliament ;  the 
municipal  and  parliamentary  constituency  numbering 
190  in  1882,  when  the  corporation  revenue  and  burgh 
valuation  amounted  to  £226  and  £3444.  Pop.  (1841) 
1221,  (1861)  1238,  (1871)  1126,  (1881)  1145. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  by  St  Leonards  and  Kings- 
barns,  NE  by  the  German  Ocean,  SE  by  the  Firth  of 
Forth,  S  by  Kilrenny,  SW  by  Carnbee,  and  NW  by 
Dunino.  Its  utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  6f  miles  ; 
its  breadth  varies  between  1  and  2§  miles  ;  and  its  area 
is  6782f  acres,  of  which  399^  are  foreshore.  The  coast, 
6  miles  in  extent,  is  bold  an  cT  rocky,  and  little  diversified 
by  creek  or  headland.  Its  most  marked  features  are 
Fife  Ness  at  the  N  side  of  the  entrance  of  the  Firth  of 
Forth,  and  the  skerries  of  Carr  and  Balcomie.  Kippo  Bum 
traces  2§  miles  of  the  Kingsbarns,  and  Chesters  Burn  2 
miles  of  the  Dunino,  boundary ;  whilst  a  rivulet  runs  to 
the  Firth  at  the  town.  The  land  rises  steeply  from  the 
shore  to  a  height  of  from  20  to  80  feet  above  sea-level, 
thence  swelling  gently  west-north-westward  to  300  feet 
near  Redwells,  400  near  Kiugsmuir  House,  and  looking 
all,  in  a  general  view,  to  be  flat,  naked,  and  uninterest- 
ing. It  has  little  wood,  and  not  a  lake  or  hill  or  any 
considerable  stream  to  relieve  its  monotony  ;  but  com- 
mands, from  its  higher  grounds,  a  very  lovely  and  ex- 
tensive prospect.  The  prevailing  rocks  are  of  the  Car- 
boniferous formation.  Sandstone,  of  good  quality  for  all 
ordinary  purposes,  occurs  in  almost  every  quarter  ;  and 
limestone  abounds,  but  lies  too  deep  to  be  easily  worked. 
Coal  and  ironstone  have  both  been  mined  ;  and  clays 
have  been  dug  for  local  brickyards.  The  soil  varies  in 
character,  from  the  richest  black  loam  on  the  immediate 
seaboard,  to  thin  wet  clay  in  the  NW  ;  and  the  rent 
has  varied  accordingly,  from  £1,  10s.  to  £8  an  acre. 
Between  Balcomie  and  Fife  Ness  is  an  ancient  stone 
work,  supposed  to  date  from  the  9th  century,  and 
l)opularly  known  as  the  Danes'  Dyke  ;  other  anticjuities 
are  the  ruined  fortalices  of  Barns,  Balcomie,  and  Airdrie. 
These  are  all  separately  noticed,  as  likewise  are  the 

299 


CRAILING 

mansions  of  Kingsmuir,  Kirkmay,  and  Wormistone. 
Eight  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500 
and  upwards,  6  of  between  £100  and  £500,  11  of  from 
£50  to  £100,  and  14  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Crail  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  St  Andrews  and  synod  of  Fife ;  the  liv- 
ing is  worth  (1882)  £379.  The  two  public  schools,  East 
and  West,  with  respective  accommodation  for  ISO  and 
142  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  110 
and  84,  and  grants  of  £91,  12s.  and  £56,  14s.  lid. 
Valuation  (1882)  £11,631,  6s.  8d.  Pop.  (1801)  1652, 
(1831)  1824,  (1S61)  1931,  (1871)  1847,  (1881)  1740.— 
Ord.  Suri,  sh.  41,  1857.  See  the  Rev.  C.  Rogers' 
3:(!istcr  of  tlie  Collegiate  Church  of  Crail  (Grampian 
Club,  187'7). 

Crailing,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  Teviotdale,  in 
Roxburghshire.  The  village  stands  on  Oxnam  Water, 
IJ  mile  ESE  of  Nisbet  station  on  the  Jedburgh  branch 
of  the  North  British,  4^  miles  NE  of  Jedburgh,  and  7 
SSW  of  Kelso,  under  which  it  has  a  post  oiEce. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  and  station  of 
Xisbet,  comprises  the  ancient  parishes  of  Crailing,  Nisbet, 
and  Spittal.  It  is  bounded  NW  and  NE  by  Roxburgh, 
E  by  Eckford,  SE  by  Oxnam,  SW  by  Jedburgh,  and  W 
by  Anerum.  Its  greatest  length,  from  N  by  W  to  S  by 
E,  is  4|  miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is  4 
miles  ;  and  its  area  is  6043^  acres,  of  which  78  are  water. 
The  Teviot,  ^^inding  4^  miles  east-north-eastward  on 
the  Jedburgh  border  and  through  the  interior,  here  from 
the  S  receives  OxxAM  Water,  whose  last  2J  miles  belong 
to  Crailing.  The  surface,  where  the  Teviot  quits  the 
parish,  sinks  to  150  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to 
619  feet  near  Littlelonley,  on  the  S  side  of  the  river  ;  on 
the  N,  to  774  at  Peniel  Heugli  and  527  near  Blackrig 
jdantation.  On  Peniel  Heugh  is  the  Yv'^aterloo  Column, 
150  feet  high,  whose  top  is  gained  by  a  spiral  staircase, 
and  which  bears  inscription,  '  To  the  Duke  of  Wellington 
and  the  British  Army,  AVilliam  Kerr,  sixth  Marquis  of 
Lothian,  and  his  tenantry,  dedicate  this  monument,  30 
June  1815.'  These  heights  excepted,  most  of  the  parish 
consists  of  parts  of  the  lowest,  warmest,  richest,  and  most 
lovely  region  of  the  Teviot's  basin.  The  rocks  of  the 
hills  are  eruptive,  those  of  the  valley  Devonian;  and 
sandstone,  of  fine  building  quality,  has  been  quarried 
in  two  places.  The  soil  in  general  is  a  light  loam. 
About  300  acres  are  imder  wood,  less  than  lOUO  are  in 
permanent  pasture,  and  nearly  all  the  rest  is  under  the 
plough.  A  Roman  road  may  still  be  traced  in  the  west ; 
and  two  camps,  supposed  to  be  Roman,  have  left  some 
vestiges  on  Peniel  Heugh.  David  Calderwood,  the 
Church  historian,  here  entered  on  the  ministry  about 
1604  ;  and  Samuel  Rutherford  (1600-61),  the  eminent 
Covenanting  di\ane,  was  the  son  of  a  Nisbet  farmer. 
MouNTEViOT,  a  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Lothian,  is  one  of 
the  three  chief  mansions,  the  others  being  Palace  and 
Crailing  House,  a  plain  modern  mansion,  which  crowns  a 
gentle  eminence  above  the  wooded  banks  of  Oxnam  Water. 
Its  owner,  Jn.  Paton,  Esq.  of  Crailing  (b.  1805 ;  sue.  1826), 
holds  1493  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2323  per  annum, 
and  shares  nearly  all  this  parish  with  the  Marquis,  the 
latter  owning  its  northern,  and  the  former  its  southern, 
division.  Crailing  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Jedburgh  and 
synod  of  .Merse  and  Teviotdale  ;  the  living  is  worth 
£370.  The  church,  rebuilt  about  the  middle  of  last 
century,  is  a  very  plain  structure  containing  300  sittings 
A  Free  church  contains  262  sittings  ;  and  a  public  school, 
with  accommodation  for  81  cliildren,  had(1880)aii  average 
attendance  of  63,  and  a  gi-ant  of  £49,  9s.  6d.  Valuation 
(1882)  £9374,  19s.  6d.  Pop.  (1801)  669,  (1831)  733, 
(1861)  673,  (1871)  657,  (1881)  638.— On/.  Sur.,  shs.  17, 
25,  1864-65. 

Crammag  or  Crummag,  a  precipitous  headland  on  the 
W  coast  of  Kirkmaiden  parish,  Wigtownshire,  5  miles 
NW  of  the  Mul)  of  Galloway.  It  is  cut  olf  from  tlie 
neighbouring  moi>T  by  remains  of  a  trench  and  a  vitrified 
ram  part. 

Cramond,  a  village  in  the  NW  corner  of  Edinburgh- 
shire, and  a  pari.>5h  partly  also  in  Liidithgowshire.     Tlie 
village  is  pr<-ttily  situatc<I  on  the  Firth  of  Forth,  at  the 
E  side  of  tlie  mouth  of  tlie  river  Almond,  5  miles  S  of 
300 


CRAMOND 

Aberdour,  3  WNW  of  Craigleith  station  on  the  Leith 
branch  of  the  Caledonian,  and  5  WNW  of  Edinburgh, 
with  which  it  communicates  four  times  a  day  by  omnibus. 
Its  name  in  Celtic  signifies  '  the  fort  upon  the  Almond ;' 
and  it  occupies  the  site  of  an  important  Roman  station, 
which  was  connected  by  a  fine  military  way  with  the 
great  English  Watling  Street  and  with  Antoninus'  Wall, 
and  which  has  yielded  coins  of  eleven  emperors,  three 
altars,  a  ))avemeut,  and  other  Roman  remains.  From 
1628  to  1730  it  gave  the  title  of  Baron  to  the  family  of 
Richardson.  At  it  are  a  post  ofiice,  boys'  and  girls' 
schools,  and  the  parish  church. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  seaport  of  Granton, 
the  villages  ofDAVinsoN's  Mains  and  Cuamond  Bridge, 
and  a  small  part  of  Leith  burgh,  is  bounded  N  by  the 
Firth  of  Forth,  E  by  St  Cuthberts,  S  by  Corstorphiue, 
SW  by  Kirkliston,  and  W  by  Dalmeny.  Its  greatest 
length,  from  E  to  W,  is  4 J,  or  from  ENE  to  WSW  5|, 
miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  2  miles  ;  and 
its  area  is  6662  acres,  of  which  704|  are  foreshore,  and 
42J  are  water,  whilst  1185  belong  to  Linlithgowshire. 
Cramond  Island,  f  mile  NNE  of  the  village,  may  be 
reached  at  low  water  on  foot,  and,  measuring  3  by  1^ 
furlongs,  aflbrds  pasturage  for  a  few  sheep  ;  IJ  mUe 
further  is  another  still  smaller  basaltic  islet.  Inch 
Mickery.  The  shore  line,  5  miles  long,  is  fringed  at 
places  with  low  beds  of  mussel-mantled  rocks,  and  backed 
by  a  terrace,  marking  the  former  lower  level  of  the  land ; 
the  walk  along  it  from  Grauton  to  Cramond  village  is 
one  of  the  pleasantest  round  Edinburgh.  The  Almond 
winds  3§  miles  east-north-eastward  and  north-north- 
eastward to  the  Firth,  roughly  tracing  all  the  Linlith- 
gowshire boundary  ;  from  Craigiehall  onward  its  banks 
are  finely  wooded.  The  surface,  though  undulating, 
nowhere  much  exceeds  200  feet  above  sea-level,  except 
iu  the  S  which  includes  the  northern  slopes,  but  not 
the  tower-crowned  summit  (520  feet)  of  fir-clad  Cor- 
STORPHINE  Hill.  The  whole,  however,  is  so  richly 
adorned  with  mansions  and  parks,  woods  and  well- 
cultivated  fields,  as  everywhere  to  present  a  charming 
aspect.  The  trees  include  the  four  splendid  sycamores 
of  Braehead,  Cammo,  Cramond  House,  and  Craigiehall, 
which,  with  respective  height  of  101,  75,  89,  and  70  feet, 
girth  12f,  ISJ,  ISi,  and  16^  feet  at  1  foot  from  the 
ground  ;  and  Cramond  House  has  also  a  beech  and  an 
oak,  85  and  60  feet  high,  and  26^  and  10  feet  iu  circum- 
ference. The  rocks  belong  mainly  to  the  Calciferous 
Limestone  series,  but  diorite  intrudes  on  Corstorphiue 
Hill,  and  basalt  at  five  dillcrent  localities — on  the  coast, 
at  the  Almond's  mouth,  and  on  its  banks  higher  up. 
Clay  ironstone  has  been  raised  here  by  the  Curron  Com- 
pany ;  and  a  mmeral  sining,  iu  the  grounds  of  Barnton, 
as  Marchfield  Spa  enjoyed  once  some  medicinal  celebrity. 
The  soil  is  various,  but  on  the  whole  is  good.  Oyster 
and  other  fisheries  have  greatly  declined  in  value,  but 
employment  is  given  by  Granton's  industrial  establish- 
ments, by  the  ink  and  chemical  works  of  Caroline 
Park,  by  the  British  and  Oriental  Ship  Coating  Com- 
pany, and  by  Cramond  Iron  Company,  which  dates  from 
1771.  Families  formerly  connected  with  this  parish 
were  those  of  Hope  of  Grantouu,  Ramsay  of  Barnton, 
Howison  of  Braehead,  Adamson  of  Craigcrook,  Inglis  of 
Cramond,  Argyll,  and  Balmerino  :  amongst  its  illus- 
trious natives  or  residents  were  John  Law  of  Lauriston 
(1671-1729),  projector  of  the  Mississippi  scheme;  Geo. 
Cleghorn  (1716-89),  professor  of  anatomy  in  Dublin 
University;  Jas.  Hamilton,  M. D.  (1749-1835);  John 
Philip  Wood  (1760-1838),  antiquary;  Archibald  Con- 
stable (1775-1827),  the  celebrated  publisher;  his  sou 
and  biographer,  Thomas  Constable  (1812-81) ;  Scott  s 
darling,  Marjorie  Fleming  (1803-11);  Francis  Lord 
Jetfrey  (1773-1850),  the  famous  critic;  and  Andrew 
Lord  Rutherford  (1791-1851),  an  eminent  judge  of  ses- 
sion. At  Jlarchfield,  too,  the  late  William  Sharpe  ot 
Hoddam  bred  ilarthaLynn,  the  dam  of  Voltigeur,  from 
whom  all  the  best  racing  blood  in  England  is  tlfsceuded. 
Cramond  House,  a  little  eastward  from  the  village,  is  a 
handsome  and  commodious  mansion,  founded  about  1680, 
and  greatly  enlarged  in  1772  ;    a  square  three-storied 


CRAMOND  BRIDGE 


CRATHES  CASTLE 


tower  to  the  XW  is  the  only  remains  of  a  15th  century 
palace  of  the  Bishops  of  Dunkekl.  Its  present  owner, 
successor  of  the  Inglises,  is  Lieut. -Col.  John  Cornelius 
Craigie-Halkett  (b.  18-30  ;  sue.  1877),  who  holds  637 
acres  in  Midlothian,  valued  at  £2520  per  annum.  Other 
mansions  are  Barntox,  Bkaehead,  Broomfield,  Craig- 
CROOK,  Dry  law,  Lauristox,  JIuiRHorsE,Cammo  or  Xeav 
Saughtux,  and  Silverkxowes  ;  and  10  proprietors 
hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  7  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  7  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  23 
of  from  £20  to  £50.  Cramond  is  iu  the  presbytery  of 
Edinburgh  and  sjTiod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  the 
li\"ing  i5  worth  £480.  The  cruciform  parish  church, 
originally  dedicated  to  St  Columba,  was  rebuilt  in  1656, 
and,  as  enlarged  in  1701  and  ISll,  contains  958  sittings. 
Other  places  of  worship  are  noticed  imder  Graxtox  and 
Davidsox's  Maixs  ;  and  five  public  schools — Cramond, 
Cramond  female,  Davidson's  Mains,  Granton  mixed  and 
infant,  and  Lennie — with  respective  accommodation  for 
164,  70,  123,  211,  and  62  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  86,  58,  98,  209,  and  49,  and  grants  of 
£67,  6s.,  £46,  5s.,  £67,  9s.,  £16-3,  4s.  6d.,  and  £36, 12s. 
Valuation  (1860)  £23,078,  (1882)  £38,606,  of  which 
£983  belonged  to  the  Linlithgowshire  section,  and  £3600 
was  for  railwavs,  waterworks,  &c.  Pop.  (1801)  1411, 
(1831)  1984,  (1861)  2695,  (1871)  3020,  (1881)  2945,  of 
whom  84  belonged  to  Linlithgowshire. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh. 
32,  1857.  See  John  P.  Wood's  Ancient  and  Modern 
State  of  the  Parish  of  Cramond  (Edinb.  1794). 

Cramond  Bridge,  a  hamlet  in  Cramond  parish,  at  the 
boundary  between  Edinburgh  and  Linlithgow  shires, 
on  the  river  Almond,  and  on  the  Queensferry  highroad, 
5  miles  WXW  of  Edinburgh,  and  IJ  mile  SSW  of 
Cramond  village.  It  has  a  post  office  under  Cramond, 
a  good  inn,  and  an  eight-arched  bridge,  erected  in  1823. 
See  Beaehead. 

Cramond  Regis.     See  Bakxtox. 

Crane,  a  deep  triangular  lochlet  (§  x  J  furl. )  in  Dunsyre 
parish,  E  Lanarkshire,  amid  the  moorish  south-western 
Pentlands,  1100  feet  above  sea-level,  and  3^  miles  NW 
of  Dunsyre  village.     It  abounds  with  perch  and  pike. 

Cranloch.     See  St  Axdrews,  Elginshire. 

Crannich.     See  Weem. 

Cranshaws,  a  Lammermuir  hamlet  and  parish  in  the 
N  of  Berwickshire.  The  hamlet  lies,  676  feet  above 
sea-level,  on  the  right  bank  of  "Whitadder  Water,  16 
milfs  SE  by  E  of  Haddington,  and  9  KW  of  Dunse, 
under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 

The  parish  consists  of  two  sections,  which  are  sepa- 
rated from  each  other  by  a  strip  (J  mile  broad  at  the 
narrowest)  of  Longformacus,  and  the  northernmost  of 
which  contains  the  hamlet.  This,  with  an  utmost 
length  and  breadth  of  2|  and  22  miles,  is  bounded  N 
by  the  Gamelshiel  section  of  Stenton  in  Haddington- 
shire, E  and  S  by  Longformacus,  and  W  by  Whitting- 
ham  in  Haddingtonshire.  The  southern  and  larger 
division  measures  5^  miles  from  E  to  W  ;  has  a  varying 
width,  from  X  to  S,  of  IJ  and  3|  miles  ;  and  is  bounded 
KW,  N,  and  E  by  Longformacus,  S  by  Greenlaw  and 
Westruther,  and  SW  by  Lauder.  Including  30^  acres 
of  water,  the  total  area  is  8738;^  acres,  of  which  2589 
belong  to  the  northern,  and  6149:^  to  the  southern,  por- 
tion. The  Whitadder  runs  3|  miles  on  or  near  to  the 
northern  and  eastern  border  of  Cranshaws  proper,  whose 
highest  points  are  Cranshaws  Hill  (1245  feet)  and  Main- 
slaughter  Law  (1381) ;  whilst  Dye  Water  runs  5  miles 
east-by-southward  along  all  the  northern  boundary  of 
the  lower  division,  whose  surface  rises  from  less  than  700 
feet  above  sea-level  to  1298  on  Dunside  Hill  and  1522  on 
Blyth  Edge.  The  rocks  are  Silurian  ;  and  much  of  the  soil 
is  poor,  the  arable  land  along  the  streams  amounting  to 
only  some  900  acres.  A  tumulus  crowns  Mainslaughter 
Law,  which  is  said  to  have  got  its  name  from  the  battle 
fought  in  1402  between  Hejibum  of  Hailes  and  the  Earl 
of  Dunbar.  The  fine  old  peel  tower  called  Cranshaws 
Castle,  standing  towards  the  centre  of  the  northeni 
section,  measures  40  bv  24  feet,  and  is  65  feet  high  ;  a 
former  stronghold  of  the  Douglases,  and  the  haunt  of  a 
drudging  brownie,  it  now  is  the  seat  of  the  eldest  son 


of  the  Earl  of  Morton,  Sholto-George-Watson  Douglas, 
Lord  Aberdour  (b.  1844),  who,  holding  2551  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £1050  per  annum,  divides  this  parish 
with  2  other  landowners.  It  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Dunse  and  sjtioiI  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale;  the  living  is 
worth  £200.  The  church,  at  the  hamlet,  was  built  in 
1739,  and  contains  120  sittings  ;  whCst  a  public  school, 
with  accommodation  for  55  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  35,  and  a  grant  of  £52,  14s.  6d. 
Valuation  (1882)  £2492,  16s.  Pop.  (1801)  166,  (1831) 
136,  '1861)  134,  (1871)  142,  (1881)  106.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
33,  1863. 

Cranston,  a  parish  en  the  XE  border  of  Edinburgh- 
shire, containing  the  villages  of  CorsLAXD,  Edgehead, 
and  Ford,  the  last  being  i  mile  W  by  N  of  Pathhead, 
and  4J  miles  ESE  of  Dalkeith,  under  which  it  has  a 
post  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  tele- 
graph departments.  Irregular  in  outline,  Cranston  is 
bounded  XW  by  Inveresk ;  X  by  Tranent,  and  E  by 
Ormiston  and  Humbie,  in  Haddingtonshire ;  SW  by 
Crichton  and  Borthwitk  ;  and  W  by  Xewbattle  and 
Dalkeith.  Its  greatest  length,  from  XX'W  to  SSE,  is  42 
miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  3^  fur- 
longs and  3g  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  5102J  acres,  of  which 
2f  are  water,  and  677^  belong  to  the  Cakemuir  section, 
lying  If  mile  S  of  the  SE  angle  of  the  main  body. 
Ttxe  Water,  here  a  very  small  stream,  bisects  the 
parish  north-north-eastward,  running  chiefly  within  the 
beautiful  parks  of  Oxenford  and  Prestouhall.  "\^^lere, 
below  TMiitehouse  mill,  it  passes  into  Ormiston,  the 
surface  sinks  to  300  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  lising 
north-westward  to  500  feet  near  Airfield  and  637 
near  Mutton  Hole,  whilst  in  the  Cakemuir  section  it 
attains  an  altitude  of  over  1000  feet.  The  formation 
belongs  to  the  Carboniferous  Limestone  series ;  and 
sandstone,  limestone,  and  coal  are  largely  worked,  the 
last  in  Edgehead  and  Prestonhall  collieries.  About  250 
acres  are  under  wood  ;  and  nearly  all  the  remaining  area, 
with  the  exception  of  rather  less  than  a  third  of  the 
Cakemuir  division,  is  in  a  state  of  high  culrivation. 
Cranston  Dean  Bridge,  over  the  Tyne,  on  the  southern 
border,  with  three  semicircular  arches,  each  17  feet  in  span 
and  46  high,  is  a  modem  structure ;  as  likewise  is  Lothian 
Bridge,  also  over  the  Tyne,  which,  82  feet  high,  has  five 
semicircular  arches,  each  50  feet  in  span,  sitrmounted 
by  ten  segment  arches  of  54  feet  in  span  and  8  feet  of  rise. 
Cakemuir  Castle  is  the  chief  and  almost  sole  antiquity ; 
the  quaint  old  manse,  near  Prestonhall,  having  been  de- 
molished forty  or  fifty  years  since.  A  hospice  formerly, 
connected  with  that  of  Soutra,  it  bore  the  monkish 
inscription — '  Diversorium  infra,  Habitaculum  supra. ' 
To  the  Cranston  family  this  parish  gave  the  ritle  of 
Baron  in  the  peerage  of  Scotland  from  1609  till  the 
death  of  the  last  and  eleventh  Lord  in  1869.  The  man- 
sions are  Oxextord  and  Prestoxhall,  4  proprietors 
holding  each  an  annual  value  of  more,  and  1  of  less, 
than  £500.  Cranston  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dalkeith 
and  sjTiod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £372.  The  parish  church,  near  Ford,  the  second 
built  within  this  century,  is  a  good  Gothic  edifice,  with 
a  tower ;  and  at  Ford  itself  is  a  U.  P.  church.  Two 
public  schools,  Cousland  and  Cranston,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  93  and  116  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  S3  and  113,  and  grants  of  £63,  6s. 
and  £99,  4s.  Valuation  (1882)  £9048,  including  £19 
for  a  shoi't  reach  of  the  !Macmerry  branch  of  the  X'orth 
British.  Pop.  (1801)  895,  (1831)  1030,  (1861)  1035, 
(1871)  1036,  (1881)  998.— Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  32,  33,  1857- 
63. 

Cranstonhall.     See  Glasgow. 

Craspul  or  Craisaphuill,  a  loch  (4|  x  1^  furl.)  in 
Durness  parish,  XW  Sutherland,  1  fuilong  W  of  Dur- 
ness manse,  and  ^  mile  XE  of  Loch  Bhrlay,  like  which 
it  is  fed  by  subterraneous  tunnels  through  limestone 
rocks,  and  abounds  in  excellent  trout. 

Crathes  Castle,  a  mansion  in  Banchory -Teman  parish, 
XW  Kincardinesliire,  ^  mile  X  of  the  left  bank  of  the 
Dee,  and  Ig  WXW  of  Crathes  station,  this  being  14 
miles  WSW  of  Aberdeen,  and  3  E  by  X  of  Banchory.     A 

301 


CRATHIE  AND  BRAEMAR 

line  old  chateau-like  btriictuiv,  with  a  lofty  gi-anite  tower, 
s([uare  and  turreted,  it  was  built  partly  iu  152S,  partly 
at  later  periods,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  Burnetts  of  Leys, 
whose  founder,  Alexander  de  Burnard,  in  1324  obtained 
a  charter  of  lauds  in  Kincardineshire.  His  great-grand- 
son, Robert  Burnett  (flo.  1409),  was  the  first  '  Baron  o' 
Leys,'  a  title  familiar  from  an  ancient  ballad  ;  and 
Thomas  Burnett,  twelfth  proprietor  of  Leys,  and  imcle 
iif  Bishop  Gilbert  Burnett,  was  in  1626  created  a  baronet 
of  Nova  Scotia.  His  eighth  descendant.  Sir  Robert 
l>umett  of  Leys,  eleventh  Bart.  (b.  1S33  ;  sue.  1876), 
iiwns  12,025  and  84  acres  in  Kincai'dine  and  Aberdeen 
shires,  valued  at  £5007  and  £109  per  annum.  See 
Banchory -Terxan. 

Crathie  and  Braemar,  a  large  parish  of  SW  Aberdeen- 
j-hire,  whose  church  stands,  920  feet  above  sea-level, 
near  the  left  bank  of  the  Dee,  7^  miles  W  by  S  of 
Ilallater  station,  and  51  of  Aberdeen,  under  which 
Crathie  has  a  post  office. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  of  Castletok, 
comprises  the  ancient  parish  of  Braemar,  annexed  at  a 
period  unknown  to  record.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Kirk- 
inichael  in  Banffshire,  and  by  Strathdon  ;  NE  by  Glen- 
muick ;  SE  by  Glenmuick,  and  by  Gleuisla  in  Forfarshire ; 
S  by  Kirkmichael  and  Blair  Athole,  in  Perthshire ;  W  by 
the  Glenfeshie  portion  of  Ahne,  in  Inverness-shire  ;  and 
XW  by  Duthil-Rothiemurchus,  also  in  Inverness-shire. 
Irregular  in  outline,  it  has  a  varying  length  from  E  to 
W  of  8^  and  24  miles,  a  varying  width  from  N  to  S  of 
9J  and  16|  miles,  and  an  area  of  183,2371  acres,  of 
which  9S0f  are  water.  The  Dee,  rising  close  to  the 
Inverness-shire  border,  runs  11  miles  south-south-east- 
ward to  the  Geldie's  confluence,  and  thence  winds  25^ 
miles  east-north-eastward,  mostly  through  the  middle 
of  the  parish,  but  for  the  last  4|  miles  along  the 
Glenmuick  boimdary.  During  this  course  it  descends 
from  4060  feet  above  sea-level  at  its  source  to  1318 
where  it  receives  the  Geldie,  1214  at  the  Linn  of  Dee, 
1108  at  Victoria  Bridge  near  Mar  Lodge,  872  opposite 
Crathie  manse,  and  720  at  the  Girnock's  confluence 
in  the  furthest  E  ;  its  principal  affluents  here,  all  of 
them  rising  in  Crathie  and  Braemar,  and  all  de- 
scribed in  separate  articles,  are  Geldie  Burn,  Lui  Water, 
Ey  Burn,  Quoich  Water,  Clunie  Water  with  its  tributary 
GaUader  Burn,  Feardar  Burn,  Gelder  Burn,  and  Girnock 
Burn.  Lakes,  witli  their  utmost  length  and  breadth, 
and  with  their  altitude  above  sea-level,  are  Loch  Etch- 
achan  (4  X  3i  furl. ;  3200  feet).  Loch  Brodichan  (21  x 
1  furl. ;  2303  feet).  Loch  Callader  (6J  x  1^  furl. ;  1627 
feet),  Loch  Ceannmor  (1 J  x  f  furl.  ;  2196  feet),  and 
Lochxagar  (2^  X  1|  furl. ;  2570  feet),  besides  thirteen 
smaller  tarns.  From  W  to  E  the  chief  elevations  to  the 
left  of  the  Dee  are  *Braeriach  (4248  feet),  *Bex  Mac- 
DHUi  (4296),  Derry  Cairngorm  (3788),  Carn  a  ilhaim 
(3329),  Cam  Crom  (2847),  Sgor  Mor  (2666»,  Carn  j\Ior 
(2057),  *Beinna'  Chaoruinn(3553),  Beinn  Bhreac(3051), 
Meall  na  Guaille  (2550),  Creag  a  Bhuilg  (2190),  *Bena- 
I'.OURD  (3924),  Carn  Elrig  Mor  (2068),  Carn  Eas  (3556), 
Cam  na  Drochaide  (2681),  'Ben  Avon  (3843),  Carn 
Liath  (2821),  Jleikle  Elrick  (2318),  *Meikle  Geal  Charn 
(2533),  *  Brown  Cow  Hill  (2721),  Culardoch  (2933), 
Craig  Leek  (2085),  Meall  Alvie  (1841),  Leac  Ghorm 
(1946),  Tom  Bhreae  (2276),  An  Creagan  (1857),  and 
Creag  Mhor  (1643),  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits 
that  culminate  on  the  borders  of  the  parish.  To  the 
left  or  W  and  S  of  the  Dee  rise  Caiuxtoul  (4241  feet). 
The  Devil's  Point  (3303),  *Monadh  Mor  (3651),  Beinn 
Bhrotain  (3795),  Carn-Cloich-mhuilinn  (3087),  Duke's 
Cliair  (2010),  Carn  Geldie  (2039),  *Carn  an  Fhilleir 
(3276),  •AnSgarsoch  (3300).  Cnapan  Garbh  (2206),  Carn 
Liath  (2676),  *  Beinn  lutharn  Mhor  (3424),  Mor  Shron 
(2819),  Cam  Aosda  (3003),  *  The  Cairnwell  (3059),  Sron 
Dubh(1909),  Carn  an  Tuirc  (3340),  *  Cairn  na  Glasha 
(3484),  Creaf'  Choinnich  (1764),  Carn  nan  Sgliat  (2260), 
Creag  nan  Leachda  (2549),  Meall  an  t-Sluichd  (2771), 
Creag  Doineanta  (1910),  the  Princess  Royal's  Cairn 
(1479),  Ripe  Hill  (1678),  Cam  Fiaclan  (2703),  •Locii- 
NAOAU  (3786),  Princess  Alice's  Cairn  (1278),  Prince 
Albert's  Cairn  (1437),  Creag  a  Ghaill  (1971),  *Conach- 
302 


CRAWFORD 

craig  Hill  (2777),  *Meall  Gorm  (1809),  and  Creag 
Ghiubhais  (1593).  Containing  thus  parts  or  the  whole 
of  three  of  the  four  highest  summits  in  Scotland,  Crathie 
presents  a  landscape  as  varied  as  it  is  beautiful — its 
clear-flowing  salmon  river  and  sweep  of  valley  with 
broad  plantations,  green  fields,  and  stately  mansions,  its 
rounded  corries  and  narrow  glens,  its  somlare  deer-forests 
and  heathery  grouse  moors,  all  set  in  a  ring  of  trackless, 
serrated  mountains.  (See  Aberarder,  Alt-na-Giutha- 
sACH,  Carr,  Caiiixaqueex,  Charters  Chest,  Coruie- 
MULZiE,  Craig-Cluxy,  Craig-Gowax,  Craig-na-Bax, 
Garrawalt,  Moxaltrie,  etc.)  The  prevailing  rock 
is  granite,  alternating  in  jdaces  with  gneiss,  lime- 
stone, and  quartz,  near  Castleton  traversed  by  a  vein  of 
serpentine ;  the  soil  of  the  arable  lands  is  generally  a 
light  sandy  loam.  Woods  and  natural  forests  of  Scotch 
firs,  larch,  and  birch  must  cover  an  enormous  area, 
acres  on  acres  of  rocky  hillside  having  been  planted  with 
millions  of  trees,  both  native  and  foreign,  within  the 
last  hundred  years,  whilst  in  Mar  Forest  are  firs  from 
two  to  three  centuries  old,  and  containing  100  or  200 
cubic  feet  of  timber  (pp.  273-275,  2'raiis.  Highl.  and  Ag. 
Soc. ,  1874).  The  mansions  are  Balmoral  Castle,  Aber- 
geldie  Castle,  Ixvercauld  House,  and  Mar  Lodge ; 
the  Queen,  the  Earl  of  Fife,  and  Farquharson  of  Inver- 
cauld  holding  each  an  annual  value  of  more,  and  31 
other  proprietors  of  less,  than  £100.  Giving  off  since 
1879  the  quoad  sacra  pai-ish  of  Braemar,  Crathie  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Kincardine  O'Neil  and  S3'nod 
of  Aberdeen ;  the  living  is  worth  £370.  The  parish 
church  is  a  plain  edifice  of  1806,  seated  for  800, 
and  adorned  ■\\'ith  a  two-light  stained-glass  window, 
erected  by  Her  Majesty  in  1873  to  the  memory  of 
Xorman  Slacleod,  who  preached  his  first  sermon  as 
court  chapdain  here  on  29  Oct.  1854.  At  Easter  Bal- 
moral, on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Dee,  across  a  sus- 
pension bridge,  is  Crathie  Free  church,  ^vith  a  spire ; 
other  places  of  worship  are  noticed  under  Castletox. 
Besides  the  school  there,  Crathie  public,  Aberarder, 
Abergeldie  female,  and  Crathie  Side  schools,  with  re- 
spective accommodation  for  98,  184,  39,  and  67  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  65,  15,  18,  and  35, 
and  grants  of  £48,  2s.,  £22,  17s.,  £14,  6s.,  and  £46, 
8s.  6d.  Valuation  (1860)  £7868,  (1881)  £14,430.  Pop. 
(1801)  1876,  (1831)  1808,  (1861)  1574,  (1871)  1566, 
(1881)  l61B.—0rd.  Sur.,  shs.  65,  64,  75,  1870-76.  See 
the  Rev.  .Tames  M.  Crombie's  Braemar  and  Balmoral 
(2d  ed.  1875). 

Craufurdland  Castle.    See  Crawfxjrdland. 

Crawford,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  the  upper  ward 
and  the  south-eastern  extremity  of  Lanarkshire.  The 
village,  toward  the  NW  corner  of  the  parish,  stands  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Clyde  (here  crossed  by  a  chain  bridge 
of  75  feet  span),  opi)osite  the  influx  of  Midlock  and 
Camps  Waters,  and  adjacent  to  the  Caledonian  railway, 
2|  miles  SE  of  its  post-town  and  station,  Abington,  this 
being  43J  miles  SW  of  Edinburgh.  Enjoying  anciently 
the  privileges  of  a  burgh  of  barony,  it  was,  prior  to  the 
railway  period,  an  important  resting-place  for  travellers, 
but  now  is  little  more  than  a  rural  hamlet,  with  an 
hotel,  the  parish  cliurch,  and  a  public  school. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  of  Leadhills, 
is  traversed  for  12^  miles  by  the  main  trunk  of  the 
Caledonian,  wliich  here  attains  its  summit  level  (1012 
feet),  and  here  has  the  stations  of  Abington  and  Elvan- 
foot.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Lamington  ;  NE  by  Culter  ;  E 
by  Tweedsmuir,  in  Peeblesshire  ;  SE  by  Jloflat  and  Kirk- 
]iatrick-Juxta,  in  Dumfriesshire  ;  S  by  Closeburn,  and 
SW  by  Durisdeer  and  Sanquhar,  all  three  also  in  Dum- 
friesshire ;  W  and  NW  by  Crawfordjolin.  Its  utmost 
lengtli,  from  N  to  S,  is  144  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to 
W,  varies  between  IJ  and  llg  miles;  and  its  area  is 
68,839i  acres,  of  which  313  are  water.  Evax  Water  is 
formed  by  several  head-streams  in  the  E  of  the  parish  ; 
otherwise  the  drainage  system  has  been  alreadj'  sketched 
under  the  Clyde,  which  here  from  its  source  near  the 
soutliern  boundary  takes  a  northerly  course  of  28  miles, 
and  wliich  here  receives,  on  the  left  hand,  Powtrail,  Elvan, 
and  Glengonner  Waters,  ami,  on  the  right,  Little  Clydes 


CRAWFORDJOHN 


CRAWFURDLAND  CASTLE 


Bum  and  Midlock  and  Camps  Waters — all  of  tlieni  rising 
in  Crawford,  and  all  of  them  separately  noticed.  Where 
the  Cl3xle  quits  the  parish,  the  surface  sinks  to  800  feet 
above  sea-level,  these  rising  southward,  south-eastward, 
and  eastward  to  mountain  watersheds  of  the  Southern 
Highlands,  which  separate  Clydesdale  from  Nithsdale, 
Annandale,  and  Tweeddale  The  chief  elevations  from 
N  to  S  to  the  W  of  the  Clvde  are  Eavengill  Dod 
(1758  feet),  Wellgrain  Dod  (1813),  Lousie  Wood  Law 
(2028),  Dun  Law  (2216),  Green  Lowther  (2403),  and 
Ballencleuch  Law  (2267)  ;  whilst  to  the  E  rise  South- 
wood  Rig  (1556),  the  Pinnacle  (1819),  *Coomb  Dod 
(2082),  YearngiU  Head  (1804),  Wintercleuch  Fell  (1804), 
*Whiteside  Hill  (1817),  and  Earncraig  Hill  (2000),  where 
asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  culminate  on  the 
borders  of  the  parish.  The  glens  or  vales  for  the  most 
part  have  considerable  breadth  of  bottom,  and  are  partly 
dry,  partly  wet  and  spongy.  The  rocks  are  in  places 
metamorphic,  but  chiefly  Silurian.  Roofing  slate  has 
been  worked  in  one  small  quarry  ;  lead  ore  is  extensively 
mined  at  Leadhills,  where  also  many  valuable  minerals, 
as  gold,  silver,  calamine,  blende,  manganese,  malachite, 
azure  copper  ore,  iron  pjTites,  etc.,  have  been  found. 
The  soU  on  the  banks  of  the  Clyde,  and  near  the  mouths 
of  its  affluents,  is  variously  alluvial,  loamy,  sandy,  and 
gravelly ;  that  of  nearly  all  the  remaining  area  is  moorish. 
About  2200  acres  are  arable,  less  than  160  are  under 
wood,  and  all  the  rest  is  either  pastoral  or  waste. 
Crawford  Castle,  or  Tower  Lindsay,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Clyde,  opposite  Crawford  village,  is  a  ruined 
baronial  stronghold,  once  defended  by  a  moat ;  from  the 
close  of  the  12th  century  till  1488  it  was  the  seat  of  the 
Lindsays,  who  in  1398  received  the  earldom  of  C^a^^•fo^d. 
(See  Cults  and  Balcarees.)  The  parish  is  traversed 
b}'  a  Roman  road,  branching  off  near  Elvanfoot  to  Xiths- 
dale  and  Annandale,  and  flanked  by  two  well-preserved 
Roman  camps  on  Boadsberry  HUl  and  White  Camp 
farm.  It  also  contains  three  native  camps  or  hill-forts, 
and  the  sites  of  several  pre-Reformation  chapels.  jSTew- 
ton  House  is  the  only  mansion  ;  but  the  property  is 
divided  among  12  landowners,  8  holding  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  1  of  between  £100  and  £500, 
1  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  2  of  from  £20  to  £50. 
Detaclied  from  Leadhills  for  church  and  school  and 
registration  purposes,  Crawford  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Lanark  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  the  living  is 
worth  £335.  The  church,  rebuilt  in  1875,  contains 
2S0  sittings  ;  and  three  public  schools — Crawford,  Daer- 
Powtrail,  and  Summit — with  respective  accommodation 
for  103,  27,  and  53  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  57,  14,  and  22,  and  gi'ants  of  £71,  93., 
£27,  16s.,  and  £32,  14s.  Valuation  (1860)  £13,774, 
(1S82)  £22,598,  17s.  Pop.  of  civil  parish  (1801)  1671, 
(1831)  1850,  (1861)  1590,  (1871)  1829,  (1881)  1763; 
oiq.  s.  parish  (1881)  698.— Orel.  Sur.,  shs.  15,  16,  1864. 

Crawfordjolm,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  the  SW  of 
the  upper  ward  of  Lanarkshire.  The  village  stands,  950 
feet  above  sea-level,  near  the  left  bank  of  Duneaton 
Water,  6|  miles  N  by  E  of  Leadhills,  and  4  W  of  its 
post-town  and  station,  Abington,  this  being  43^  miles 
SW  of  Edinburgh.  At  it  are  a  post  office,  2  inns,  the 
manse,  the  parish  church,  and  a  public  school ;  and  by 
Dorothy  Wordsworth,  who,  with  her  brother  and  Cole- 
ridge, drove  through  it  in  August  1803,  it  was  described 
as  '  a  pretty,  cheerful-looking  village,  but  one  that  must 
be  very  cold  in  A\'inter,  for  it  stands  on  a  hillside,  and 
the  vale  itself  is  very  high  gi'ound,  unsheltered  by 
trees.'  One  specialty  has  Crawfordjohn,  that  the  curl- 
ing-stones made  at  it  are  the  best  to  be  found  in 
Scotland. 

The  parish,  containing  also  Abixgton  village,  is 
bounded  N  by  Douglas,  NE  by  Wiston,  E  by  Laraing- 
ton,  SE  by  Crawford,  SW  by  Sanquhar  and  Kirkconnel 
in  Dumfriesshire,  W  by  Auchinleck  and  Muirkirk  in 
Ayrshire.  Its  utmost  length  is  12J  miles  from  E  by  N 
to  W  by  S,  viz. ,  from  Abington  to  the  Ayrshire  boundary ; 
its  breadth  diminishes  from  9|  miles  in  the  E  to  7  furlongs 
in  the  W  ;  and  its  area  is  26,460^  acres,  of  which  103;}:  are 
Water.    The  Clyde  flows  2i  miles  northward  along  all  the 


eastern  boundary,  whilst  the  south-eastern  is  traced  for 
24  miles  by  its  afiluent,  Glengonner  Water.  Snar  Water, 
draining  the  south-eastern  district,  runs  6  miles  north- 
ward to  Duneaton  Water ;  and  Duxeatox  Water  itself 
rises  close  to  the  Ayrshire  border,  and  thence  winds  19 
miles  east-by-northward  to  the  Clyde,  its  first  6j  miles 
following  the  Douglas,  and  its  last  If  mile  the  Wiston, 
boundary.  Where  the  Clyde  quits  the  parish,  the  sur- 
face sinks  to  750  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to 
1130  at  Knock  Leaven,  1260  at  Black  Hill,  1400  at 
Mountherrick,  1584  at  Drake  Law,  1620  at  Rake  Law, 
1808  at  Wanlock  Dod  (just  within  Sanqubar),  1616  at 
Cairn  Kinny,  and  1843  at  Stony  Hill  (just  within 
Auchinleck).  The  rocks  are  mainly  metamorphic  and 
Silurian,  partly  carboniferous  ;  and  they  include  lime- 
stone and  white  sandstone,  with  traces  of  coal  and  of  lead 
and  copper  ores.  The  soil  of  some  of  the  low  gi-ounds 
along  the  streams  is  a  deep  rich  loam',  of  others  sandy 
or  gravelly  ;  whilst  here  and  there  on  the  hill-slopes  it 
is  a  strong  red  clay,  and  elsewhere  generally  moorish. 
Some  3200  acres  are  arable,  and  not  more  than  50  are 
under  wood.  Vestiges  of  three  old  castles  are  at  Moss 
Castle,  Glendorch,  and  Snar ;  and  ti-aces  of  one  large 
ancient  camp  crown  the  SE  shoulder  of  Black  Hill ; 
whilst  near  Shieldholm  is  another,  supposed  to  be 
Roman.  In  1839,  the  Eglinton  Tournament  year.  Prince 
Louis  Napoleon,  Fi'ench  emperor  that  was  to  be,  arrived 
at  Abington  inn,  wet,  tired,  and  hungry,  from  a  day's 
grouse-shooting  on  Crawford  Muir.  He  could  get  no 
sitting-room,  so  took  bis  supper  by  the  kitchen  fire, 
slipped  away  to  bed,  and  early  next  morning  started  again 
on  foot.  Abington  House  is  the  only  mansion  ;  and  3 
proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  up- 
wards, 6  of  between  £100  and  £500,  and  5  of  from  £20 
to  £50.  Giving  off  a  small  portion  to  LeadhUls  quoad 
sacra  parish,  Crawfordjohn  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Lanark 
and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  the  living  is  worth 
£356.  The  parish  church,  enlarged  and  repewed  in  1817, 
contains  310  sittings.  At  Abington  is  a  Free  church ; 
and  three  schools  —  Crawfordjohn,  '\^^litecleuch,  and 
Abington — with  respective  accommodation  for  72,  23, 
and  93  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  64, 
12,  and  50,  and  grants  of  £54,  17s.,  £27,  8s.  2d.,  and 
£53.  Valuation  (1882)  £11,007,  193.  Pop.  (1801)  712, 
(1831)  991,  (1861)  980,  (1871)  853,  (1881)  8id.—0rd. 
Sur.,  sh.  15,  1864. 

Crawford  Priory,  a  mansion  in  the  N  of  Cults  parish, 
central  Fife,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Eden,  3  miles 
SW  of  Cupar.  Built  in  1813  by  Lady  Mary  Lindsay 
Cra^rford,  who  in  1808  had  succeeded  to  the  Crawford- 
Lindsay  estates  on  the  death  of  her  brother,  the  twenty- 
second  Earl  of  Crawford,  it  was  originally  a  splendid  castel- 
lated edifice  in  the  Gothic  style,  but  fell  into  neglect  and 
dilapidation,  till  in  1871-72  it  was  thoroughly  renovated 
and  enlarged,  a  carriage  porch  and  vestibule  being  then 
erected  at  the  S  entrance,  and  a  Gothic  tower  and  spire, 
115  feet  high,  at  the  E  side,  whilst  a  portion  of  the 
interior  was  converted  into  a  private  Episcopal  chapel. 
It  now  is  a  seat  of  George  Frederick  Boyle,  sixth  Earl  of 
Glasgow  (b.  1825  ;  sue.  1869),  who  owns  5625  acres  in 
the  shire,  valued  at  £9085  per  annum.  See  also  CuM- 
brae,  Hawkhead,  and  Kelburx. 

Crawfordton,  an  estate,  with  a  modem  mansion,  in 
Glencairn  parish,  W  Dumfriesshire,  IJ  mile  from 
Moniaive.  Its  owner,  George  Gustavus  Walker,  Esq. 
(b.  1831),  was  county  member  1865-68  and  1869-74; 
and  holds  7660  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £3478  per 
annum. 

Crawfurdland  Castle,  a  mansion  in  Kilmarnock 
parish,  Ayrshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Crawfurdland 
Water,  3  miles  NE  of  Kilmarnock  town.  Comprising 
a  strong,  tliick-walled,  ancient  tower,  and  a  fine  modern 
Gothic  centre,  it  has  been  for  upwards  of  six  centuries 
the  seat  of  a  branch  of  the  Craufurds  ;  its  present  holder, 
Lieut. -Col.  Jn.  Reg.  Houison-Craufurd  (b.  1811;  sue. 
1871),  owns  1876  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1988 
per  annum.  (See  also  Braehead.)  Crawfurdland  Water, 
formed  by  two  head-streams  in  Fenwick  parish,  close  to 
tlie  Renfrewshire  border,  winds  8^  miles  south-westward 

303 


CRAWICK 

through  Fenwick  and  Kilmarnock  parishes,  and,  IJ  mile 
NNE  of  Kilmarnock  town,  unites  with  the  Fenwick  to 
form  Kilmarnock  Water.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Crawick,  a  rivulet  of  NW  Dumfriesshire,  formed,  at 
780  feet  above  sea-level  and  -within  a  mile  of  the  Lanark- 
shire border,  by  the  confluence  of  Wanlock  and  Spango 
Waters.  Thence  it  winds  8  miles  south-south-westward 
along  the  boundary  between  Sanquhar  and  Kirkconnel 
parishes,  and  fulls  "into  the  Nith  f  mile  WNW  of  San- 
quhar town. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  15,  1864. 

Crawick  Mill,  a  village  in  Sanquhar  and  Kirkconnel 
parishes,  Dumfriesshire,  on  Crawick  Water,  1  mile  NW 
of  Sanquhar  town.  It  lies  within  Sanquhar  burgh 
bounds,  and  has  an  extensive  carpet  and  tartan  factory. 

Cray,  a  place  in  Kirkniiehael  parish,  NE  Perthshire, 
on  the  left  bank  of  Shee  Water,  15  miles  N  by  W  of 
Hlairgowrie.  Here  are  a  Free  church  and  Cray  House, 
whose  Q-wner,  Mrs  Robertson,  holds  437  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £113  per  annum. 

Crayinch,  a  wooded  islet  of  Kilmaronock  parish,  Dum- 
bartonshire, in  Loch  Lomond,  ^  mile  NE  of  Inchmurrin. 
Triangular  in  shape,  it  measures  2  by  1 J  furlongs. 

Creack,  a  village  in  Auchindoir  parish,  W  Aberdeen- 
shire, 3i  miles  SW  of  Rhynie. 

Creagach.     See  Ciiaggie. 

Creca.     See  Axxan. 

Cree,  a  river  of  Galloway,  issuing  from  Loch  Moan, 
which  lies,  675  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  mutual 
boundary  of  Ajt  and  Kirkcudbright  shires.  Thence  it 
winds  11  miles  south-south-westward  along  that  bound- 
ary, and  next  21J  miles  south-eastward  along  all  the 
boundary  between  Kirkcudbright  and  Wigtown  shires, 
past  Newton -Stewart,  till  at  Creetown  it  falls  into  the 
head  of  Wigtown  Bay,  the  lena  jEstiiarium  of  Ptolemy. 
On  its  right  lie  the  parishes  of  Barr,  Colmonell,  and  Pen- 
ninghame,  on  its  left  of  MinnigatT  and  Kirkmahreck  ; 
and  on  its  left  it  receives  Minnoch  Water,  Penkill  Burn, 
and  Palnure  Burn.  Navigable  for  small  craft  as  high 
as  Carty,  it  assumes  near  Penninghame  House  a  lake- 
like appearance,  widening  at  intervals  to  close  on  a 
furlong ;  here  were  of  old  the  celebrated  '  Cruives  of 
Cree,'  i.e.,  salmon-traps  in  the  stone  cauls  or  dam-dykes, 
which,  serving  the  country-folk  for  bridges,  came  to  be 
well-known  landmarks.  Throughout  most  of  its  lower 
course  the  'crystal  Cree'  flows  through  flat  flowery 
meadows,  its  banks  being  only  occasionally  adorned  Avith 
heathery  knolls  and  lichened  or  fern-clad  rocks ;  but 
from  Bargrennan  upwards  its  scenery  is  wild  and  moun- 
tainous, a  succession  of  desolate  moorlands.  Trout  may 
be  caught  in  considerable  quantities  in  the  upper  waters  ; 
salmon  and  sea-trout  at  several  good  casts  about  Penning- 
hame House  ;  and  smelt  or  sperling,  during  March,  in 
the  brackish  waters  of  the  estuary. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  8, 
4,  1857-63.  See  pp.  12-22  of  Wm.  M'Hraith's  Wigtovm- 
shire  (2d  ed.,  Dumf.,  1877). 

Creebridge,  a  village,  with  a  public  school,  in  Minni- 
gaff  parish,  Kirkcudl)rightsliire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Cree,  opposite  Newton-Stewart,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  a  five-arch  bridge,  erected  in  1813  at  a  cost  of 
£6000. 

Creed  (Gael.  Av^Jiuinn  Ghride),  a  rivulet  in  the  S  of 
Stornoway  parish,  Lewis  island,  Ross-shire.  Formed 
by  two  head-streams  at  an  altitude  of  300  feet  above  sea- 
level,  it  winds  9J  miles  east-south-eastward  to  the 
western  side  of  Stornoway  Harbour,  f  mile  SSW  of 
Stornoway  town.  It  traverses  Loch  an  Oash  and  Loch 
a  Chlachain,  and  makes  a  fall  opposite  Sir  James 
Matheson's  Grotto,  up  to  which  point  it  abounds  in  sea- 
trout,  grilse,  and  salmon. — Ord.  Sitr.,  sh.  105,  1858. 

Creeinch.     See  Crayixch. 

Creetown,  a  small  seaport  towTi  in  Kirkmabreck  parish, 
SW  Kirkcudbrightshire,  on  the  estuary  of  the  river 
<Jree  or  head  of  Wigtown  Bay,  3|  miles  as  the  crow 
Hies  NE  of  Wigtown,  and  1  mile  S  of  Creetown  station 
on  the  Portpatrick  railway,  this  being  64  miles  SE  of 
Newton -Stewart,  and  43^  WSW  of  Dumfries.  A 
village,  called  Creth,  occupying  its  site,  was  in  1300  the 
rendezvous  of  an  PZnglish  army  ;  and  either  that  village 
or  a  successor  to  it,  bearing  the  name  «f  Ferrytown  of 
304 


CREICH 

Cree,  became  nearly  extinct  in  the  ISth  century.  The 
present  town,  founded  in  1785,  embraced  some  houses 
which  still  remained  of  the  old  village,  and  was  made  a 
burgh  of  barony  in  1792,  to  be  governed  by  a  bailie  and 
four  councillors,  elected  triennially  by  the  resident 
feuars.  It  stands  between  Moneypool  and  English- 
man's Burns,  amid  a  great  expanse  of  beautiful  scenery ; 
and,  chiefly  consisting  of  modern  houses,  each  with  its 
garden  and  orchard,  relies  in  great  measure  for  support 
on  the  neighbouring  granite  quarries.  At  it  are  a  post 
office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  railway 
telegrajih  departments,  2  chief  inns,  a  public  school, 
the  parish  church  (1834  ;  800  sittings),  and  a  neat  U.P. 
church  (300  sittings)  ;  whilst  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood are  the  mansions  of  Barholm  and  Cassencarie. 
Capt.  Jas.  Murray  Denniston  (1770-1857),  author  of 
Legends  of  Galloway,  died  at  Creetown.  Pop.  (1841) 
984,  (1851)  1302,  (1861)  968,  (1871)  805,  (1881)  970.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  4,  1857. 

Creggans.     See  SritACHrR. 

Creich,  a  parish  of  N  Fife,  extending  to  within  5 
furlongs  of  the  Firth  of  Tay,  and  containing  the  villages 
of  Luthrie  and  Brunton,  each  ^vith  a  post  office  under, 
and  respectively  54  and  6|  miles  NW  of,  Cupar-Fife. 
It  is  bounded  NW  by  Flisk,  NE  by  Balmerino,  E  by 
Kilmany  and  Moonzie,  S  by  Monimail,  SW  by  Dunbog, 
and  W  by  the  easternmost  section  of  Abdie,  having 
an  utmost  length  from  NNE  to  SSAV  of  3^  miles,  a 
width  of  1|  mile,  and  an  area  of  2341  acres.  The  sur- 
face, sinking  in  the  south-eastern  corner  to  less  than 
200  feet  above  sea-level,  is  elsewhere  a  congeries  of  hills, 
which  on  the  NW  border  attain  568  feet,  and  at  Black 
Craig  in  the  NE  665 — heights  that  command  a  magni- 
ficent view  of  the  Tay's  basin,  away  to  the  Sidlaws  and 
the  Gi'ampians.  Some  of  the  hills  are  cultivated  to  the 
top  ;  others  are  partly  covered  with  plantations  ;  and 
others,  again,  are  rocky  and  heathy.  Several  burns, 
rising  here,  unite  near  Luthrie  to  form  Motray  Water,  a 
tributary  of  the  Eden.  The  rocks,  eruptive  mainly, 
include  greenstone,  am3'gdaloid,  clinkstone,  and  basalt ; 
and  a  laminar  or  stratified  trap  has  been  worked  in  one 
quarry,  basaltic  clinkstone  in  another.  The  soil  is  vari- 
able, ranging  from  black  or  thin  sharp  gravelly  loam  to 
clay  or  moss.  On  Green  Craig  is  a  hill-fort,  consisting 
of  two  concentric  lines  of  circumvallation  ;  and  a  little 
to  the  SE  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  parish  church,  and  of 
Creich  Castle,  which,  three  stories  high,  and  47  feet  long 
by  39  broad,'  appears  to  have  been  a  place  of  very 
considerable  strength,  and  was  defended  on  one  side  by 
a  morass,  now  drained,  on  the  other  by  outworks.  In 
1502  the  estate  around  it  was  acquired  from  the  Littles 
or  Liddels  by  Sir  David  Bethune,  whose  daughter, 
Janet,  Lady  Buccleuch,  is  the  '  Lad  ye  of  Branxholm ' 
in  Sir  Walter's  Lay,  and  whose  great-granddaughter 
was  one  of  the  '  Queen's  four  Maries  ; '  it  passed  by 
purchase  to  the  Bethunes  of  Balfour  about  the  middle 
of  the  17th  century.  Of  Parbroath  Castle,  a  seat  of  the 
Setons,  in  the  S  of  the  parish,  hardly  a  vestige  remains. 
Natives  were  the  Rev.  Alex.  Henderson  (1583-1646), 
the  zealous  Covenanter,  and  John  Sage  (1652-1711), 
nonjuring  Archbishop  of  Glasgow.  Creich  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Cupar  and  synod  of  Fife  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £282.  The  parish  church,  i  mile  NNW  of 
Luthrie,  is  a  good  Gothic  structure,  built  in  1832,  and 
containing  252  sittings.  A  Free  church  stands  near 
Brunton.  The  public  school,  with  accommodation  for 
80  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  74,  and 
a  grant  of  £59,  8s.  Valuation  (1882)  £4044,  16s.  8d. 
Pop.  (1801)  405,  (1831)  419,  (1861)  377,  (1871)  387, 
(1881)  386.— On/.  Stir.,  sh.  48,  1868. 

Creich,  a  very  large  Highland  pari.sh  in  the  S  of 
Sutherland,  containing,  towards  its  SE  corner,  the 
village  of  Bon.\r-Bridge,  and  traversed  for  5g  miles  by 
the  Sutherland  railway,  with  Invershin  station  thereon, 
3i  miles  NNW  of  Ardgay,  and  17^  NW  of  Tain.  It  is 
bounded  at  its  north-western  extremity  by  Assynt  and 
Eddrachillis  ;  along  its  north-eastern  side  by  Lairg, 
Rogart,  and  Dornoch  ;  at  its  south-eastern  corner  by  the 
upper  waters  of  Dornoch  Firth   which  separate  it  from 


CREID 

Edderton  in  Eoss-shire  ;  and  along  its  south-western 
side  by  Kincardine,  likewise  in  Koss-shire.  From  SE  to 
NW  its  greatest  length  is  31^  miles  ;  its  breadth  vaiies 
between  1|  and  9^  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  110,736f  acres, 
of  which  735  are  foreshore  and  1911^  water,  it  thus 
being  nearly  half  the  size  of  all  Midlothian.  Lakes 
of  the  interior,  from  SE  to  NW,  Avith  their  utmost 
length  and  width  and  their  altitude  above  sea-level,  are 
Loch  MiGDALE  (2  miles  x  3  furl.  ;  115  feet)  Loch  a' 
Ghobhair  (4x1  furh  ;  7-12  feet).  Loch  an  Lagain  (7^  x 
If  furl.  ;  446  feet),  sending  off  the  Evelix,  Loch  Laro 
(7ixli  furh  ;  600  feet),  Loch  na  Claise  Moire  (7x3 
fiu'l.  ;  774  feet),  Loch  na  Faichde  (4x1^  furl.  ;  1400 
feet).  Loch  Garn  nan  Conbhairean  (4  x  If  furl.  ;  1104 
feet),  and  a  number  of  smaller  tarns.  On  the  Dornoch 
border  lies  Loch  BriE  (1^  x  J  mile  ;  527  feet)  ;  on  the 
Rogart,  Loch  Cracail  Mor  (6xlJ  furh  ;  620  feet);  on 
the  Kincardine,  Loch  Ailsh  (7  x  4^  furl.  ;  498  feet) ;  and 
on  the  Eddrachillis,  Gorm  Loch  Mor  (7x4  furl.  ;  846 
feet).  The  river  Cassley,  issuing  from  the  last,  hurries 
2O2  miles  south-eastward  along  tlie  middle  of  the  parish 
to  the  OiKELL,  which  itself  winds  So^  miles  south- 
south-eastward  and  east-south-eastward  along  all  the 
Kincardine  boundary,  through  Loch  Ailsh  and  the  Kyle 
of  Sutherland,  to  the  head  of  Dornoch  Firth,  at  Bonar- 
Bridge.  At  Invershin,  lower  down  than  the  Cassley,  it  is 
joined  from  the  N  by  the  Shix,  whose  last  5J  miles  lie 
either  on  the  boundary  with  Lairg  or  through  the 
interior  of  Creich.  The  surface,  hilly  everywhere,  in 
the  NW  is  mountainous,  attaining  1090  feet  on  ileall 
Moraig,  937  on  Meall  Mor,  1318  on  Cnoc  a  Choire,  1341 
on  Beinn  an  Rasail,  1785  on  Beinn  na  Eoin,  2345  on 
Meall  an  Aonaich,  and  3273  on  Benmore  Assynt,  the 
loftiest  summit  of  Sutherland.  Benmore  is  made  up  of 
Silurian  quartzite  and  trap ;  lower  down  are  carboni- 
ferous and  Old  Picd  sandstone  rocks.  Very  hard  trap 
has  been  worked  in  two  quarries  :  and  a  small  vein  of 
manganese  occurs  at  Rosehall,  which,  in  common  with 
Flode,  Pulrossie,  and  other  places,  also  yields  excellent 
clay  ;  but  coal  and  shale  have  been  sought  for  in  vain. 
Woods  cover  a  considerable  area  round  Bonar-Bridge, 
where  the  soil  of  the  plough-lands  is  mostly  a  light 
gravelly  loam  ;  and  there  are  several  good  arable  and 
sheep  farms.  The  largest  of  the  latter  is  Invercassley, 
which,  extending  to  35,000  acres,  comprises  much 
black  land,  lying  high,  and  so  exposed  to  wind  and 
frost.  Prof.  Harry  Rainy,  M.D.  (1792-1876),  was  a 
native.  Antiquities  are  a  '  Pictish  tower  '  and  a  stone 
circle  near  Rosehall,  two  groups  of  stone  circles  near 
Bonar-Bridge,  and,  near  the  church,  a  vitrified  fort  on 
the  Dun  of  Creich  and  a  standing  stone,  8  feet  long  by 
4  bro^d,  which  is  said  to  have  been  reared  on  the  grave 
of  a  Danish  chieftain.  Rosehall  House  is  the  principal 
mansion,  and  3  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value 
of  £1800  and  upwards,  3  of  between  £500  and  £830,  4 
others  of  more,  and  2  of  less,  than  £100.  Creich  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Dornoch  and  synod  of  Sutherland ; 
the  living  is  worth  £260.  The  parish  church,  on  Dor- 
noch Firth,  3|  miles  ESE  of  Ardgay,  was  built  in  1790, 
and  contains  500  sittings.  There  are  also  two  Free 
churches  of  Creich  and  Rosehall ;  and  four  public 
schools — Bonar-Bridge,  Invershin,  Larachan,  and  Rose- 
hall— with  respective  accommodation  for  158,  47,  100, 
and  90  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of 
60,  20,  47,  and  71,  and  grants  of  £50, 15s.,  £34,  £53,  13i3. 
6d.,  and  £60,  lis.  6d.  Valuation  (1860)  £5466,  (1882) 
£11,732,  lis.  4d.,  including  £649  for  railway.  Pop. 
(1801)  1974,  (1831)  2562,  (1861)  2521,  (1871)  2524, 
(1881)  2223,  of  whom  1571  were  in  Bonar,  and  652  in 
Rosehall,  registration  district. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  102, 1881. 

Creid.     See  Creed. 

Creinch.     See  Ceayinch. 

Creoch,  Loch.     See  Cumnock,  New. 

Cretan,  a  stream  and  a  sea-loch  in  the  N  of  Argyll- 
shire, separating  the  district  of  Appin  from  the  parish 
of  Ardchattan.  The  stream  rises  4f  miles  SSE  of  Balla- 
chulish,  on  the  south-western  slope  of  Sgor  na  h-Ulaidh 
(3258  feet),  at  2500  feet  above  sea-level,  and  thence  winds 
11^  miles  west-south-westward  to  the  head  of  the  sea-loch. 
20 


CRICHTON 

The  lower  part  of  its  glen  is  finely  wooded,  and  here  it 
receives  the  Ure,  and  traverses  Loch  Fasnacloich  ;  its 
waters  are  strictly  preserved,  and  the  salmon  and  trout 
fishing  is  good. — The  sea-loch  curves  8  miles  west-south- 
westward,  nm-th -westward,  and  south-westward  to  Loch 
Linnhe,  opposite  the  upper  part  of  Lismore  Island,  and 
nowhere  is  more  than  1|  mile  broad,  whilst  narrowing 
to  2  furlongs  at  its  mouth  near  Shian  Ferry,  and  to  1 
furlong  towards  its  head  near  Creagan  Ferry,  being 
crossed  at  these  two  ferries  by  different  routes  from  Oban 
to  Ballachulish.  With  an  average  depth  of  15  fathoms, 
and  a  spring-tid«  of  15  feet,  it  affords  good  harbourage 
in  all  its  lower  parts.  By  Dorothy  Wordsworth  it  is 
described  as  '  a  large  irregular  sea-loch,  with  low  sloping 
banks,  coppice  woods,  and  uncultivated  grounds,  with  a 
scattering  of  cornfields  ;  as  it  appeared  to  us,  very 
thinly  inhabited  ;  mountains  at  a  distance.'  See  Glex- 
ceeeax. — Orel.  Sur.,  shs.  45,  53,  1876-77. 

Creth.     See  Ceeetown. 

Crianlarich,  a  hamlet  in  Killin  parish,  W  Perthshire, 
at  the  mouth  of  Strathfillan,  with  a  station  on  the  Cal- 
lander and  Oban  railwa}-,  5^  miles  SE  of  Tyndrum. 
Lying  522  feet  above  sea-level,  it  has  an  hotel  and  a 
public  school,  and  by  coach  communicates  with  Ardlui 
at  the  head  of  Loch  Lomond,  9  miles  to  the  SSAV. 

Crib  Law,  a  hill  (1389  feet)  in  the  Selkirkshire  por- 
tion of  Roberton  parish,  3  miles  ENE  of  the  meeting- 
point  of  Selkirk,  Roxburgh,  and  Dumfries  shires. 

Crichie,  a  hill  (500  feet)  in  the  N  of  Kintore  parish, 
Aberdeenshire,  If  mile  S  by  W  of  Inverurie.  Bruce 
was  encamped  here  in  1308  at  the  time  of  his  victory 
over  the  Comj-ns  in  Bocetie  parish. 

Crichie  House,  a  mansion  in  Old  Deer  parish,  NE 
Aberdeenshire,  |  mile  SE  of  Stuartfield. 

Crichope  Linn.     See  Closebuex. 

Crichton,  a  parish  on  the  E  border  of  Edinburghshire, 
containing,  at  its  northern  extremity,  the  village  of 
Pathhead,  on  the  road  from  Edinburgh  to  Lauder,  5 
miles  ESE  of  Dalkeith,  and  3|  N  of  Tynehead  station. 
Tynehead  itself  and  Fala  Dam  hamlet  "(2|  miles  SE  of 
Pathhead)  also  belong  to  Crichton,  which  is  bounded 
NE  by  Cranston  and  by  Humbie  in  Haddingtonshire, 
SE  by  Fala,  the  Blackshiels  section  of  Humbie,  the 
Cakemuir  section  of  Cranston,  the  CowbraehUl  section 
of  Borthwick,  and  the  Falahill  section  of  Stow,  SW  and 
W  by  the  main  body  of  Borthwick.  Its  utmost  length, 
from  N  to  S,  is  4i  miles  ;  its  width,  from  E  to  W,  varies 
between  3§  furlongs  and  3^  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  4821^ 
acres,  of  which  nearly  f  acre  is  water.  Ttxe  Water, 
rising  close  to  Tynehead  station,  meanders  3  miles 
north-north-eastward  along  all  the  western  border  ;  the 
interior  is  drained  by  several  subaffluents  of  Humbie 
Water.  The  surface,  sinking  near  Pathhead  to  close  on 
400  feet  above  sea-level,  and  to  600  at  Costerton,  attains 
804  feet  at  a  point  7  furlongs  ESE  of  the  church,  and 
900  upon  Crichton  Moss.  The  rocks  belong  mainly  to 
the  Carboniferous  Limestone  series,  •with  a  patch  of  basalt 
on  the  higher  ground ;  limestone  has  been  largely  worked ; 
and  coal  occurs,  though  not  under  conditions  to  be  pro- 
fitably mined.  The  soil  over  fully  four-fifths  of  the 
area  is  rich  and  deep,  accessible  most  of  it  to  the  plough, 
and  yielding  abimdant  crops  ;  the  high  lands  are  shel- 
tered by  belts  of  thriving  plantation.  A  ri<iug-gi-ound 
at  Longfaugh,  commanding  a  wide  and  beautiful  pro- 
spect, is  crowned  by  remains  of  a  fort,  supposed  by  some 
to  be  a  Roman  camp  ;  but  Crichton's  chief  antiijuity 
is  Crichton  Castle,  a  magnificent  massive  ruin,  which 
forms  the  grand  feature  in  the  landscape,  as  it  rises  from 
a  projecting  terrcplein  within  a  hundred  yards  or  so  of 
the  top  of  the  hill  on  the  Tyne's  right  bank,  ^  mile  S  of 
the  church.  A  Turstan  de  Creicliton  is  one  of  the 
witnesses  to  the  charter  of  foundation  of  Holyrood 
Abbey  (1128) ;  his  most  famous  descendant  was  Sir 
William  Crichton,  the  founder  of  both  castle  and  church, 
who,  as  chancellor  of  Scotland,  was  alternately  rival  and 
friend  of  Sir  Alexander  Livingston,  and  who  in  1440  at 
Edinburgh  Castle  beheaded  the  young  Earl  of  Douglas 
and  his  brother — an  act  of  treachery  for  which  his  own 
fortress  was  taken  and  dismantled  by  the  Douglases.    (See 

305 


CRICHTON 

Douglas  Castle.  )  In  1445  Sir  William  was  made  Lord 
Crifhton,  the  third  holder  of  which  title  lost  his  estates 
in  14S4  for  joining  Albany  against  James  III.  After  four 
years'  tenure  bv  the  minion  Ramsay,  they  were  granted 
in  14SS  to  Patrick  Hepburn,  first  Earl  of^BoTHWELL,  by 
whose  great-grandson,  Darnley's  murderer,  they  were 
once  more  forfeited  in  1567.  Nine  years  later  James  VI. 
bestowed  them  on  his  ill-starred  cousin,  Francis  Stewart, 
fifth  Earl  of  Bothwell;  and  subsequently  they  passed 
through  the  hands  of  a  dozen  proprietors,  from  one  of 
whom,  Hepburn  of  Humbie  {c.  1649),  the  Castle  was 
nicknamed  Humbie's  Wa's,  till  at  last  they  came  to  the 
Callendars.  Queen  Mary  feasted  in  the  castle  hall,  on 
occasion  of  the  marriage  here  of  her  natural  brother.  Sir 
John  Stewart ;  but  Crichton's  chief  interest  lies,  with 
most  readers,  in  the  visit  paid  to  it  by  '  Marmion. ' 
Scott's  lines  describe  the  ruin  faithfully  : — 

'  Crichton  !  though  now  thy  miry  court 

But  pens  the  lazy  steer  and  sheep; 

Thy  turrets  rude,  and  tottcr'd  keep. 
Have  been  the  minstrel's  loved  resort. 
Oft  have  I  traced  within  thy  fort, 

Of  mouldering  shields  the  mystic  sense. 

Scutcheons  of  honour  or  pretence, 
Quarter'd  in  old  armorial  sort, 

Remains  of  rude  magnificence. 
Nor  wholly  yet  has  time  defaced 

Thy  lordly  gallery  fair ; 
Nor  yet  the  stony  cord  unbraced. 
Whose  twisted  knots,  with  roses  laced. 

Adorn  thy  ruin'd  stair. 
Still  rises  unimpair'd  below 
The  courtyard's  graceful  portico 
Above  its  cornice,  row  and  row 
Of  fair  hewn  facets  richly  show 

Their  pointed  diamond  form.' 

'Crichton,' he  adds  in  the  Notes,  'is  a  large  ruinous 
castle  on  the  banks  of  the  Tyne,  built  at  different  times, 
and  ^vith  a  very  dilferent  regard  to  splendour  and  accom- 
modation. The  oldest  part  of  the  building  is  a  narrow 
keep  or  tower,  such  as  formed  the  mansion  of  a  lesser 
Scottish  baron  ;  but  so  many  additions  have  been  made 
to  it,  that  there  is  now  a  large  courtyard,  surrounded  by 
buildings  of  different  ages.  The  eastern  front  of  the 
court  is  raised  above  a  portico,  and  decorated  with 
entablatures  bearing  ancliors.  All  the  stones  in  this 
front  are  cut  into  diamond  facets,  the  angular  projections 
of  which  have  an  uncommonly  rich  appearance.  The 
inside  of  this  part  of  the  building  appeal's  to  have  con- 
tained a  gallery  of  great  length  and  uncommon  elegance. 
Access  was  given  to  it  by  a  magnificent  staircase,  now 
quite  destroyed.  The  soffits  are  ornamented  with  twin- 
ing cordage  and  rosettes  ;  and  the  whole  seems  to  have 
been  far  more  splendid  than  was  usual  in  Scottish 
castles.'  So  that  Crichton  still  offers  a  signal  contrast 
to  its  grim  square  neighbour,  Borthwick,  even  although, 
since  Sir  Walter's  day,  its  courtyard  has  been  encum- 
bered by  the  fall  of  a  huge  portion  of  the  massive  north- 
eastern tower.  Costerton  House,  3^  miles  ESE  of 
Pathhead,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish,  is 
the  principal  mansion,  the  seat  of  David  Ainslie, 
Esq.  ;  and  the  property  is  mostly  divided  among  5 
heritors.  Crichton  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dalkeith  and 
.synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  the  living  is  worth 
£353,  exclusive  of  manse  and  glebe.  The  collegiate 
church  of  SS.  JIary  and  Kentigern,  1|  mile  SSW  of 
Pathhead,  was  founded  in  1449  for  a  provost,  8  pre- 
bendaries, a  sacrist,  and  2  singing  boys.  Second 
Pointed  in  style,  it  was  to  have  been  cruciform,  but 
never  received  the  nave,  so  now  comprises  a  chancel, 
with  sedilia ;  transej)ts,  the  northern  of  which  is  blocked 
up  with  an  un.siglitly  vault ;  and  a  massive,  square, 
sad<lie-backed  tower.  The  chancel,  which,  serving  for 
parish  church,  contains  500  sittings,  is  disfigured  by  a 
gallery,  and  several  of  the  windows  have  been  blocked 
up  ;  but  the  whole  might  at  no  great  cost  be  restored  to 
its  pristine  beauty.  A  public  school,  with  accommoda- 
tion for  209  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance 
of  183,  and  a  grant  of  £174,  lis.  Valuation  (1882) 
£8343,  including  £532  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801)  923, 
(1831)  1325,  (1861)  1364,  (1871)  1223,  (1881)  1094.— 
Ord.  Snr.,  slis.  32,  33,  1857-63.  See  Billings'  Baronial 
306 


CRIEFF 

and  Ecclesiastical  Antiquities  (1845) ;  Sir  Thos.  Dick 
'La.wiiev's  Scottish  Rivers  {new  gA.  1874);  and  J.  W.  SmaU's 
Leaves  from  my  Sketch  Books  (1880). 

Crichup  Linn.     See  Closeburn. 

Criech.     See  Creich. 

Crieff  (Gael,  crubha,  '  haunch  '),  a  to^\•n  and  a  parish 
of  central  Perthshire.  The  town  stands  on  ground 
ascending  from  the  Earn's  left  bank,  100  to  400  feet 
above  sea-level,  at  the  terminus  of  the  Crietl"  Junction 
and  the  Crieff  &  Methven  branches  of  the  Caledonian, 
opened  respectively  in  1856  and  1866.  By  road  it 
is  6h  miles  E  by  S  of  Connie,  and  by  rail  18  W  of 
Perth,  108  SW  of  Aberdeen,  38  WSW  of  Dundee,  9 
NNW  of  Crieff  Junction,  26  NNE  of  Stirling,  62^  NNW 
of  Edinburgh,  and  56;^  NNE  of  Glasgow.  Boldly  rest- 
ing on  a  sunny  or  southward  slope,  and  sheltered  from 
cold  winds  by  pine-clad  eminences,  this  '  Montpelier  of 
Scotland '  has  long  been  famous  for  its  pure,  dry 
climate  no  less  than  for  its  exquisite  sunoundings. 
'  From  every  street,'  to  quote  the  Beauties  of  Upper 
Strathearn,  '  a  landscape  of  rare  sweetness  and  beauty  is 
disclosed.  The  valley,  here  widening  to  10  or  15  miles, 
is  studded  E,  S,  and  AV,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach, 
with  mansions  and  villages,  embowered  in  oak  or  pine 
woods.  Here  and  there  the  Earn — no  mean  stream — is 
seen  gliding  along  its  winding  course,  now  with  the 
dash  of  a  mountain  torrent,  and  anon  with  the  measured 
tread  of  a  royal  pageant,  till  the  eastern  view  is  lost 
under  the  receding  slopes  of  the  Ochils.  On  the  N  and 
NAV  the  Grampians,  with  Bex  Choxzie  (3048  feet)  for 
centre  piece,  rear  their  dark  forms  against  the  sky-line, 
in  summer  and  autumn  shining  in  their  natural  bloom.' 

Charters  were  dated  from  Crieff  so  long  ago  as  1218, 
and  for  centuries  it  has  been  recognised  as  the  capital  of 
Strathearn,  the  seat  of  the  great  civil  jurisdiction  of  tlie 
Earls  Palatine  till  1483,  and  of  the  criminal  courts  of 
the  Stewards  or  Seneschals  down  to  the  abolition  of  herit- 
able jurisdiction  in  1748.  The  'kind  gallows  of  Crieff,' 
whence  sometimes  of  a  morning  a  score  of  plaids  had 
dangled  in  a  row,  still  stood  at  the  western  end  of  tlie 
town,  when  Scott  came  hither  in  1796  ;  and  he  notes  in 
Waverley  how  the  Highlanders  M'ould  touch  their 
bonnets  to  it,  with  the  ejaculation — '  God  bless  her  nain 
sell,  and  the  Tiel  tamn  you  ! '  To  this  day  may  be  seen 
the  ponderous  iron  stocks,  and  near  them  an  octagonal 
stone  fleur-de-lis,  10  feet  in  heiglit,  tlie  cross  of  the 
burgh  of  regality  of  Drummond  (1688)  ;  whilst  further 
to  the  eastward  is  the  Cross  of  Crieft',  transferred  to  its 
present  position  little  more  than  a  century  since  from 
the  ancient  barony  of  Trowan,  and  by  some  archieolo- 
gists  pronounced  to  be  of  Norman,  by  others  of  Runic, 
character  {Sculptured  Stones  of  Scotland,  1867).  Other 
antiquities  the  town  has  none  ;  for  its  massy  Tolbooth 
of  1685,  with  cage  and  clock-tower  and  corbie-stepped 
gables,  was  demolished  in  1842  ;  and,  though  it  gave 
shelter  to  the  great  Montrose,  Crieff  dwindled  into  a 
mere  kirktown  between  1483  and  1683.  Then  it  began 
to  revive,  George  Drummond  of  Milnab,  afterwards 
provost  of  Edinburgh,  giving  off  pieces  of  his  lands  in 
feu  ;  but  on  26  Jan.  1716,  it  was  burned  to  the  last  house 
by  350  of  the  Chevalier's  Highland  adherents.  For 
some  years  it  lay  in  ruins  ;  but  from  1731  James  Drum- 
mond, titular  third  Duke  of  Perth,  bestirred  himself  in 
the  work  of  repair  and  improvement,  laying  out  James 
Square  and  extending  the  town  westward,  whilst  found- 
ing a  large  linen  factory.  This  was  destroyed  in  tlie 
'45,  when  tlie  loyal  town  narrowly  escaiied  a  second 
singeing,  and  the  Drummond  estates  were  forfeited  to 
the  Crown.  By  the  commissioners,  however,  who 
managed  them  from  1752  to  1784,*  bleacliing,  tanning, 

*  In  1784  the  Drummond  estates  were  conferred  by  George  III. 
on  Captain  James  Druiiininnd,  who  claiiiicd  to  be  heir-male  of 
Lord  .Tohn  Drummoiid,  brother  of  the  third  Duke  of  Perth, 
and  who,  In  1707,  was  created  Haron  Perth.  They  now  are  held 
by  his  grand-daughter,  Clementina  Heatlicdte-Drumniond -Wil- 
loughby.  Baroness  Willoughby  de  Eresby,  and  Joint  Hereditary 
Chamberlain  of  Kngland,  having  been  uiisiiecessfully  claimed 
(lSfJS-71)  by  George  Drummond,  Earl  of  Perth  and  Melfort,  aa 
nearest  heir-male  of  the  third  Duke.  See  Dkliimu.n1)  Castlk, 
Pkktu,  and  Strathearn. 


CRIEFF 

paper-making,  and  other  imlustries  were  fostered  to  a 
height  that  bade  fair  to  make  Crietf  an  important 
industrial  centre  ;  and  the  woollen  manufacture  was 
added  in  1812,  about  which  time  three  whisky  distil- 
leries, with  eight  malting  house,  were  also  started.  The 
last  were  all  closed  in  1S28  ;  and,  generally  speaking, 
Crielfs  mauufaetui'es  received  a  signal  blow  from  tlie 
termination  of  the  great  war  with  France,  as  well  as  from 
changes  in  fashions,  machinery,  and  modes  of  transit. 
Prospects  brightened  once  more  with  the  opening  of  the 
railway  ;  and  since  1856  Crieft  .\\s  made  rapid  progress, 
so  that,  where  scarcely  thirty  years  ago  villas  and  cot- 
tages ornees  were  'almost  totally  wanting,'  they  now 
may  be  counted  by  dozens,  and  only  within  the  last 
decade  £200,^^00  has  been  expended  on  new  buildings. 
Wordsworth  and  his  sister  Dorothy  here  passed  the 
night  of  9  Sept.  180-3  ;  and  on  10  Sept.  1842  the  Queen 
drove  through  the  town,  which  has  given  birth  to  the 
poet  David  Mallet  (1700-65),  the  chemist  Prof.  Thos. 
Thomson  (1773-1852),  and  Prof.  Jas.  Gibson,  D.D. 
(1799-1871). 

The  old  Drummond  Arms,  where  Prince  Charles 
Edward,  after  reviewing  his  forces,  held  a  stormy 
council  of  war  (3  Feb.  1746),  was  recently  feued  to  the 
Commercial  Bank  of  Scotland,  and  premises  for  the 
bank  and  a  large  hotel  have  been  built.  The  Royal, 
too,  one  of  three  other  hotels,  besides  two  temperance 
ones,  has  been  greatly  enlarged  ;  but  the  chief  hospice 
<br  tourists  and  invalids  is  Strathearn  House,  the  large 
hydropathic  establishment,  erected  in  1867  at  a  cost  of 
£30,000,  1  mile  NNE  of  the  station.  It  stands  440  feet 
above  sea-level,  on  the  southern  slope  of  the  sheltering 
Knock,  in  grounds  70  acres  in  extent ;  and  is  a  dignified 
Elizabethan  structure,  four  stories  high,  and  345  feet 
long,  with  a  turreted  square  tower  and  200  apartments, 
of  which  the  dining  and  drawing  rooms  are  84  feet 
long,  30  ^vide,  and  15  and  30  high.  It  has  Tm-kish 
and  other  baths  in  great  variety  ;  and  its  water-sup- 
j)]y,  20,000  gallons  per  diem,  is  brought  from  springs, 
gathered  in  a  reservoir  an  acre  in  extent,  and  4  miles 
distant,  and  by  Prof.  Brazier  of  Aberdeen  was  reported 
to  be  one  of  the  finest  and  purest  waters  he  had  ever 
examined.  At  or  near  the  town  are  a  post  office,  with 
money  order,  savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph 
departments,  branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland  and  the 
British  Linen  Co.,  Clydesdale,  Commercial,  Korth  of 
Scotland,  and  Union  Banks,  a  local  savings'  bank,  an 
ugly  to'ssTi-house  (1850),  containing  a  mechanics  library, 
a  masonic  lodge,  a  recreation  ground  (1880),  gas-works, 
a  commodious  station  (improved  1873),  a  cemetery,  a 
bridge  across  the  Earn  (rebuilt  1867-68)  three  manufac- 
tories of  woollen  shirtings,  blankets,  tweeds,  and  plaid- 
ings,  two  chemical  manure  works,  two  tanneries,  and 
one  distillery.  There  are  two  Saturday  papers  published 
— the  Liberal  Stratlicarn  Uerald  (1856)  and  the  Liberal- 
Conservative  Cr if ff  Journal  [Idibl).  Tuesday  is  market- 
day,  and  fairs  are  held  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  every 
mon*h  ;  but  the  famous  Michaelmas  Tryst,  where 
30,000  black  cattle  would  be  sold  by  the  Highlanders  to 
English  drovers  for  30,000  guineas  and  upwards,  was 
removed  to  Falkirk  about  1770.  MacKy,  in  his 
Joanicy  Throiujh  Scotland  (1723),  has  sketched  its 
humours  with  a  vigorous  hand  ;  and  Robert  Donn's 
Gaelic  poem  describes  the  home-sickness  that  came  over 
him  while  counting  of  droves  in  its  enclosures. 

Nowhere  is  the  great  building  acti\-ity  of  modem 
Crieff  displayed  more  markedly  than  in  its  schools  and 
churches.  The  ancient  parish  church  of  St  Thomas  was 
demolished  in  1787,  when  forty  gold  coins  of  Robert  I. 
were  found  in  its  Gothic  walls.  On  its  site  arose  the 
plain  East  church,  with  an  ill-designed  bell-tower  ;  but 
this,  in  turn,  in  1881  gave  place  to  a  goodly  Gothic 
edifice  in  Strathearn  Terrace,  built  at  a  cost  of  £4500, 
and  seating  1000  worshippers.  The  "West  church,  built 
as  a  chapel  of  ease  in  1838,  and  raised  to  quoad  sacra 
status  in  1864,  also  contains  1000  sittings.  In  1881 
the  Free  church  was  rebuilt  in  Comrie  Street,  at  a  cost 
of  £4500,  exclusive  of  site  ;  and,  Scoto-Gothic  in  style, 
has  860  sittings  and  a  massive  tower,  whose  .slated  spire 


CRIEFF 

rises  to  120  feet.  The  U.P.  church  (533  sittings)  was 
rebuilt  in  1837  ;  St  FiUan's  Roman  Catholic  church 
(200  sittings)  in  1871;  and  St  Columba's  Episcopal 
church  (600  sittings)  in  1877,  the  last  at  a  cost  of  £6000, 
in  the  Early  Decorated  style,  with  a  spire  130  feet  high. 
There  are,  moreover.  Baptist  and  Independent  chapels. 
Thomas  Morison,  native  of  Muthill,  and  builder  in 
Edinburgh,  d}-ing  in  1826,  left  the  residue  of  his 
fortune  to  accummulate  to  the  value  of  £20,000,  with 
which,  in  1859,  was  founded  Morison's  Academy,  a 
Scottish  Baronial  structure,  standing  in  gi-ounds  10  acres 
in  extent,  just  to  tlie  N  of  the  town,  whilst  St  Mar- 
garet's College,  at  the  E  end  of  Crieff,  was  afterwards 
purchased  by  the  seven  trustees  for  the  rector's  residence 
and  boarders.  As  remodelled  in  1878,  the  Academy  has 
a  rector,  English,  mathematical,  and  modern  languages 
masters,  and  a  lady  superintendent,  and  gives  a  liberal 
education  to  120  boys  and  girls  of  the  upper  and  middle 
classes.  Taylor's  Institution,  under  6  managers,  was 
founded  by  William  Taylor  of  Cornton,  tallow  chandler 
in  Crieff  (d.  1841),  for  the  children  of  the  poor  of  the 
parish,  and  in  1859  was  enlarged  by  addition  of  a 
female  industrial  school.  It  and  the  public  school,  with 
respective  accommodation  for  252  and  450  children,  had 

(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  211  and  309,  and  giants 
of  £170,  9s.  and  £247,  4s. 

Having  adopted  the  General  Police  and  Improvement 
Act  in  1864,  Crieff  is  governed  by  a  senior  and  a  jimior 
magistrate  and  10  police  commissioners.  Its  municipal 
constituency  numbered  560  in  1882,  when  the  bm-gh 
valuation'amounted  to  £20, 439,  the  revenue  being  £1098, 
including* assessments.  Pop.  (1776)  1532,  (1792)  2071, 
(1835)  3835,  (1851)   3824,    (1S61)    3903,    (1871)   4027 

(1881)  4469,  of  whom  110  were  in  Muthill  parish,  and  3 
in  that  of  Monzievaird  and  Strowan. 

The  parish  comprises  two  divisions,  united  by  a  strip 
5  furlongs  wide  at  the  narrowest,  and  belonging — the 
southern  to  Strathearn,  the  northern  to  Gleualmond. 
The  southern,  containing  the  town,  is  bounded  NE  by 
Monzie  and  FowUs-Wester,  SE  by  Madderty  and  the 
Innerpeftray  section  of  ilonzie,  S  and  SW  by  Muthill, 
and  W  by  5lonzievaird-Strowan  ;  whilst  the  northern, 
containing  Corriemuchloch  hamlet,  is  almost  enclosed 
by  the  main  and  outlying  portions  of  !Monzie  and 
Fowlis-Wester.  The  utmost  length  of  the  whole  is  IO5 
miles  from  SSE  to  NXW,  viz. ,  from  the  Earn  at  Stra- 
geath  Ferry  to  the  summit  of  Beinn  na  Gainimh  ;  the 
utmost  wi(ltn  of  the  southern  division  is  3^  miles  from 
E  to  W,  of  the  northern  7i  miles  from  SE  to  XW  ;  and 
the  area  of  the  entire  parish  is  20,546|  acres,  of  which 
162  are  water,  and  90|  lie  detached  within  Fowlis- 
AVester.  The  Earn  winds  4 J  miles  south-eastward, 
roughly  ti-acing  all  the  iluthill  boundary  ;  and  its 
tributary,  Tueiiet  Water,  flows  2  miles  southward  along 
the  Monzievaird  and  Strowan  border,  which  higher  U]' 
is  traced  by  Barvick  Burn.  The  Shaggie  Burn, 
another  of  the  Tm'ret's  affluents,  has  here  a  west-south- 
westerly run  of  1^  mUe,  and  it.'self  receives  Keltie 
Burn,  flowing  4^  miles  south-south-eastward  along  the 
boundary  with  Monzie.  Lastly,  the  Almuxd  takes  a 
winding  east-south-easterly  course  of  10  miles  in  the 
northeru  division,  during  which  it  descends  from  870  to 
500  feet  above  sea-level.  The  surface,  sinking  at  the 
SE  corner  to  less  than  100  feet,  thence  rises  to  911  feet 
on  the  Knock  of  Crieff,  1196  on  the  Hill  of  Callander, 
and  2498  on  Stonefield  Hill ;  in  the  Glenalmond  i)ortio!i 
the  chief  elevations  are  Beinn  na  Gainimh  (2367  feet), 
Meall  Reamhar  (2186),  and  Dun  ilor  (1520).  The  rocks 
are  chiefly  Old  Red  sandstone  in  the  south,  and  clay- 
slate  in  the  N  ;  the  soil  near  the  town  is  a  pretty  ricli 
loam,  but  elsewhere  ranges  from  sandy  or  gravelly  to 
stiff,  reddish,  tilly  clay.  With  the  exception  of  some 
560  acres  under  wood,  the  whole  almost  of  the  Strath- 
earn division  is  under  cultivation  ;  the  Glenalmond 
portion,  on  the  other  hand,  is  everywhere  Highland  in 
character.  Anti(iuities  are  the  Roman  camp  of  Fen- 
Docii,  Clach-xa-Ossian,  a  fort  on  Dun  Mor,  and  a 
cairn  on  tlie  opj)osite  hill.  Ferx  Thwer  is  the  prin- 
I  cipal  mansion  ;  and  8  proiirietors  liold  each  an  annual 
'  307 


CRIEFF  JUNCTION 

value  of  £500  and  upwards,  11  of  between  flOO  and 
£500,  32  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  60  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Crietf  is  in  tlie  presbytery  of  Auchterarder  and 
sjTiod  of  Pertli  and  Stirling  ;  the  living  is  worth  £293. 
Valuation  (1868)  £17,926,  13s.  2d.,  (1882)  £30,680, 
15s.  Sd.  Pop.  (1801)  2876,  (1831)  4786,  (1861)  4490, 
X1S71)  4598,  (1881)  4852.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  47,  1869. 
See  S.  Korner's  I'ambles  ronnd  Crieff  and  Uxcursicnis 
i7i(othe  IIighlands{Edinh.  1858);  Bean'tiesof  Upper  Strath- 
earn  (Crieff,  1854  ;  3d.  ed.  1870)  ;  and  Orieff,  its 
Traditions  and  Characters,  with  Anecdotes  of  Strathearn 
(Edinh.  1S81). 

Crieff  Junction,  a  station  in  Blackford  parish,  Perth- 
shire, at  the  deflection  of  the  Crietf  Junction  railway 
from  the  Caledonian,  2^  miles  SSW  of  Auchterarder, 
and  9  SSE  of  Criefl'. 

Criffel,  a  barren  though  verdant  granitic  mountain- 
group  of  SE  Kirkcudbrightshire,  commencing  in  New- 
abbey  parish  near  the  Kith,  and  running  south-westward 
across  Kirkgunzeon,  Urr,  and  Colvend,  down  almost  to 
the  shore  of  the  Solway  Firth.  It  culminates  in  conical, 
peaked  Knockendoch  (1867  feet),  2^  miles  S  by  W  of 
Newabbey  village,  and  from  this  '  huge  Criffel's  hoary 
top,'  as  Wordsworth  calls  it,  commands  in  clear  weather 
a  map-like  \dew  of  the  Solway's  basin  and  the  Cumber- 
land mountains  beyond,  with  far-away  glimpses  of 
Arran,  Ireland,  and  the  Isle  of  Man.  'Drayton,'  saj-s 
Dorothy  Wordsworth,  'has  prettily  described  the  con- 
nection this  neighbourhood  has  with  Cumberland  when 
he  makes  Skiddaw  say — 

'  "  Scurf  ell  from  the  sky, 
That  Annandale  doth  crown,  with  a  most  amorous  ej'e 
Salutes  me  every  day,  or  at  my  pride  looks  grim, 
Oft  threat'ning  me  with  clouds,  as  I  oft  threat'ning  him." ' 

According  to  a  prophecy  ascribed  to  Thomas  the  Rhymer, 
'  in  the  evil  day  coming  safely  shall  nowhere  be  found 
except  atween  CrifFel  and  tha  sea.' — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  5, 
1867. 

Crimond  (anc.  Creichmont,  '  clay  hill '),  a  hamlet  and  a 
coast  parish  of  Buchan,  NE  Aberdeenshire.  The  hamlet, 
Ij'ing  2J  miles  inland,  is  3  miles  ESE  of  Lonma}'  station, 
8|  SE  by  S  of  Fraserburgh,  and  9  NW  of  Peterhead, 
under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  fishing  hamlet  of 
Rattray,  formerly  a  royal  burgh,  2  miles  to  the  ENE, 
is  bounded  SW,  NW,  and  N  by  Lonmay,  NE  and  E  by 
the  German  Ocean,  and  SE  by  St  Fergus  in  Banffshire 
(detached).  Its  utmo.st  length  is  6§  miles  from  ENE  to 
WSW,  viz. ,  from  Rattray  Head  to  a  little  beyond  the 
Loch  of  Kininmonth  ;  its  width  in  an  opposite  direction 
varies  between  1|  and  2|  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  6281^ 
acres,  of  which  243^  are  water,  and  148i  foreshore. 
The  coast-line,  2§  miles  in  extent,  includes  the  low, 
rocky,  shelving  promontory  of  Rattray  Head  ;  and  else- 
where presents  a  broad  band  of  flat  beach,  backed  by  bent- 
covered  sand-hills.  The  interior  rises  abruptly  from  the 
shore  to  106  feet  above  sea-level  near  the  coastguard 
station,  and,  thence  descending  gradually  towards  the 
centre,  ascends  again  gently  southward  and  south-west- 
ward to  136  feet  near  South  Mosstown,  228  at  Upper 
Ridinghill,  and  284  at  Lochhills.  Loch  STR.\TnBEG, 
2§  miles  long,  and  from  2  to  4i  furlongs  broad,  lies  on 
the  northern  border,  and  receives  burns  and  runnels 
draining  the  interior  ;  the  Loch  of  Kininmonth  (3x1 
furl.),  in  the  SW,  has  been  recently  drained.  Streams 
of  pure  water  are  scarce,  most  being  tainted  with  iron. 
Dark  blue  granite  prevails  in  the  E  ;  red  granite,  gene- 
rally in  a  cruml)ling  condition,  is  found  in  the  W  ;  trap 
rock  is  also  abundant ;  and  limestone  was  at  one  time 
quarried.  The  soil  near  the  coast  is  light  and  sandy  ; 
towards  the  centre  is  generally  of  a  black  loamy  nature, 
resting  on  a  clay  bottom  ;  and  elsewhere  is  cold  and 
wet.  Nearly  five-sevenths  of  the  entire  area  are  arable, 
less  than  one-eighth  is  pastoral,  and  plantations  cover 
a  considerable  extent.  Crimond  estate  belonged  once 
to  the  Earls  of  Errol,  whilst  Logic  was  the  seat  of 
a  branch  of  the  Gordons ;  but  both  belong  now  to 
Ethel,  daugliter  (b.  1869)  of  the  late  Sir  Alex.  Banner- 
man  of  CiuMONMOGATE.  Logie  was  the  scene  of  the 
308 


CRINAN 

fine  old  Jacobite  song,  0  Logic  o'  Biichan,  believed 
to  have  been  written  about  1736  b}'  George  Halket, 
schoolmaster  at  Rathen  ;  and  at  a  spot  called  the  Battle 
Fauld,  tradition  points  out  the  grave  of  the  hero  of  the 
famous  ballad,  Sir  James  the  Rose.  A  circular  mound, 
called  Castle  Hill,  at  the  E  end  of  Loch  Strathbeg,  was 
the  site  of  a  castle  of  Com}-n,  Earl  of  Buchan  ;  and  near 
it  are  the  First  Pointed  ruins  of  St  ]\Iary's  chapel  of 
Rattray  ;  whilst  on  the  farm  of  Netherton  of  Logie  is 
an  ancient  Caledonian  circle  in  a  high  state  of  preserva- 
tion. John  Farquhar  (1751-1826),  known  as  'the  rich 
Farquhar  of  Fonthill,'  was  a  native.  Rattray  House  is 
the  principal  mansion  ;  and  3  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  more,  5  of  less,  than  £100.  Giving  off 
a  south-western  portion  to  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
Kininmonth,  Crimond  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Deer  and 
synod  of  Aberdeen ;  the  living  is  worth  £296.  The 
present  church,  at  the  hamlet,  was  built  in  1812,  and, 
containing  500  sittings,  has  a  steeple  and  clock  ;  its 
ruined  predecessor,  near  the  manse,  f  mile  N  by  W,  is 
said  to  have  been  a  prebend  of  St  Machar's  at  Aberdeen 
in  1262,  and  bears  date  1576.  A  public  school,  with 
accommodation  for  142  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  98,  and  a  grant  of  £84,  2s.  Valuation 
(1881)  £5997,  12s.  7d.  Pop.  of  civil  parish  (1801)  862, 
(1821)  900,  (1841)  767,  (1851)  893,  (1871)  887,  (1881) 
827  ;  of  ecclesiastical  parish  (1881)815. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs. 
97,  87,  1876. 

Crimonmogate,  a  mansion  in  Lonmay  parish,  Aber- 
deenshire, 1^  mile  W  of  Lonmay  station.  Grecian  in 
style,  with  a  hexastyle  granite  portico,  it  was  built 
towards  the  middle  of  the  present  century  at  a  cost  of 
£10,000 ;  in  its  finely-planted  grounds  is  a  granite 
obelisk  to  the  memory  of  Patrick  Milne,  who  bequeathed 
the  estate  to  the  Banuermans.  The  present  owner.  Sir 
George  Bannerman  of  Elsick,  tenth  Bart,  since  1682  (b. 
1829  ;  sue.  1877),  holds  7660  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £7745  per  annum. 

Crinan,  a  village,  a  sea-loch,  and  a  canal,  in  Argyll- 
shire. The  village,  called  sometimes  Port-Crinan,  stands 
in  Kilmartin  parish,  on  the  northern  side  of  the  sea- 
loch,  not  far  from  the  W  end  of  the  canal,  5^  miles 
WNW  of  Lochgilphead,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office  ;  at  it  are  an  excellent  inn,  a  wharf  and  slip,  and 
a  lighthouse.  The  steamers,  in  the  line  of  communica- 
tion between  Glasgow  and  Oban,  call  at  it ;  and  here 
the  Queen  and  Prince  Albert  spent  the  night  of  18  Aug. 
1843  on  board  the  royal  yacht. — The  sea-loch,  extend- 
ing 4^  miles  north-westward,  opens  into  the  upper  part 
of  the  Sound  of  Jura,  adjacent  to  the  mouth  of  Loch 
Craignish  ;  and  leads  the  way,  round  Craignish  Point, 
to  the  passage,  between  Scarba  and  Luing  islands,  to 
the  Firth  of  Lorn.  Its  head  is  narrow  and  tame  ;  but 
most  of  its  north-eastern  side  is  rich  in  interesting 
features  ;  and  its  mouth,  3  miles  wide,  between  Craig- 
nish and  Ardmore  Points,  with  a  group  of  islets  in  its 
own  waters,  and  with  the  northern  extremity  of  Jura  in 
front,  is  strikingly  ])icturesque. — The  canal  goes  from 
the  middle  of  the  AV  side  of  Loch  Gilp,  9  miles  west- 
north-westward,  to  Loch  Crinan,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Crinan  village,  and  enables  vessels  of  200  tons  burden, 
from  the  upper  Firth  of  Clyde  to  the  Firth  of  Lorn,  to 
avoid  the  difficult  and  circuitous  passage  of  70  miles 
round  the  Mull  of  Kintyre.  Projectecl  by  Sir  John 
Rennie  in  1793,  at  an  estimated  cost  of  £63,678,  it  was 
opened  in  1801  at  an  actual  cost  of  £141,810  ;  and  even 
then  other  loans  had  to  be  obtained,  which  by  1814 
had  burdened  the  Company  with  a  debt  of  £67,810.  It 
is  cut  chiefly  through  chlorite  schist,  traversed  by  trap 
dykes,  and  showing  indications  of  great  geognostic  dis- 
turbance ;  and  has  eight  locks  between  Loch  Gilp  and 
the  summit-level  (59  feet),  and  seven  between  that  and 
Loch  Crinan,  thirteen  of  these  locks  being  each  96  feet 
long  and  24  wide,  and  the  other  two  108  feet  long  and 
27  wide.  The  average  depth  of  water  is  only  10  feet, 
the  canal  being  fed  by  reservoirs  on  the  hill  above,  whose 
bursting  (2d  Feb.  1859)  washed  away  part  of  the  banks 
and  choked  the  channel  for  upwards  of  a  mile  with  dihris. 
The  repairs  took  a  sum  of  £12,000,  which  was  disbursed 


CRINGLETIE 

by  Government.  The  canal  is  used  chiefly  by  small 
coasting  and  fishing  vessels,  by  goods  steamboats  plying 
between  the  Clyde  and  Inverness,  and  by  an  elegant, 
roomy,  and  well-appointed  steamboat  conveying  passen- 
gers between  large  steamers  at  Ardrishaig  and  Port- 
Crinan.  Since  1818  the  canal  has  been  managed  by  the 
Commissioners  of  the  Caledonian  Canal.  Its  revenues 
arising  from  the  tolls  have,  on  the  average,  been  barely 
sufficient  to  cover  the  current  expenses  of  maintenance 
and  repair.  The  receipts  and  expenditure,  in  most 
years,  have  been  nearly  equal,  in  the  year  ending  30th 
April  1S64  being  £3605  and  £4545;  in  1869,  £4316  and 
£4394  ;  in  1873,  £4614  and  £4727  ;  in  1876,  £5057  and 
£4341  ;  in  1878,  £5966  and  £4381  ;  and  in  1879,  £5730 
and  £4929,  whilst  the  passages  in  the  last-named  year 
numbered  2668. 

Cringletie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Eddlestone 
parish,  Peeblesshire,  3  miles  KNW  of  Peebles.  The 
mansion,  standing  on  a  finely-wooded  plateau,  to  the 
right  of  Eddleston  Water,  was  rebuilt  in  1863  in  the  old 
Scotch  manor-house  style,  and  contains  some  fine  family 
portraits  by  Gainsborough,  Raebum,  and  othere.  For 
more  than  two  centuries  it  has  been  the  seat  of  a  branch 
of  the  Murraj's,  which  has  produced  a  gallant  soldier 
and  an  eminent  judge — Col.  Alex.  Murray  (d.  1762), 
and  Jas.  Wolfe  Murray,  Lord  Cringletie  (1760-1836). 
The  son  and  namesake  of  the  latter  (b.  1814)  holds  5108 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2647  per  annum. 

Crocach.     See  Cbokach. 

Crocketford,  a  village  on  the  mutual  border  of  Urr 
and  Kirkpatrick-Durham  parishes,  Kirkcudbrightshire, 
near  Achenreoch  and  Milton  Lochs,  9  miles  "WSW  of 
Dumfries.  Founded  by  the  Buchauites  in  1787,  it  has 
a  post  office  under  Dumfries,  and  a  public  school ;  near 
it  is  Crocketford  House. 

Croe,  a  clear-flowing  river  of  Glenshiel  parish,  SW 
Koss-shire,  formed  by  two  head-streams  at  an  altitude 
of  180  feet  above  sea-level,  and  nmning  5^  miles  west- 
north-westward — latterly  along  the  Kintail  border — to 
the  head  of  Loch  Duich.  It  abounds  in  sabnon  and  sea- 
trout,  but  is  preserved. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  72,  1880, 

Croftanrigh.     See  Dalrt  and  Edixbuegh. 

Crofthead.     See  Neilstox. 

Crofthead,  a  large  mineral  village  in  Whitburn  parish, 
SW  Linlithgowshire,  3|  miles  S  by  W  of  Whitbm-n 
village,  and  1^  mile  EXE  of  Crofthead  station  on  the 
Morningside  section  of  the  North  British,  this  being  6| 
miles  SSW  of  Bathgate.  It  has  itself  a  Free  church 
and  a  public  school ;  and  it  practically  forms  one  with 
Fauldhouse  and  Greenbum  villages,  lying  1  mile  WSW 
and  I  mile  SW.     See  FArLDHOusE. 

Croftinloan,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Logierait 
palish,  Perthshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Tay,  2 
miles  SE  of  Pitlochrie.  Its  owner.  Admiral  Jack  Henry 
Murray  (b.  ISIO),  holds  110  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £225  per  annum. 

Croftmartaig,   a  hamlet    adjoining    the    village    of 

ACHAKX. 

Croftness,  a  hamlet,  with  a  Christian  Knowledge 
Society's  female  school,  in  Glenlivet  quoad  sacra  parish, 
Banflshire. 

Crofts.     See  Ceossmichael. 

Crogo,  a  hamlet  in  the  SE  of  Balmaclellan  parish, 
KE  Kirkcudbrightshire,  1^  mile  XXW  of  Corsock. 

Croick,  a  quooxl  sacra  parish  in  Kincardine  parish, 
Ross-shire,  whose  church  (1827),  manse,  and  school  stand 
in  the  Black  Water's  sequestered  valley,  10  miles  W  of 
its  station  and  post-town,  Ardgay.  It  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Tain  and  sjTiod  of  Ross  ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £120,  with  a  manse  and  a  glebe  worth  each  £5  a  year. 
— Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  102,  1881.     See  Kincardine. 

Crokach,  a  loch  in  Assynt  parish,  Sutherland,  3  miles 
X  of  Lochinver.  Lying  380  feet  above  sea-level,  it  is 
1|  mile  long,  and  from  ^  furlong  to  3  furlongs  wide  ;  is 
studded  with  thirteen  islets ;  and  contains  fine,  well- 
shaped  trout. 

Crokach,  a  loch  in  the  SW  corner  of  Reay  parish, 
Sutherland,  5^  miles  W  by  X  of  Forsinard  station. 
Lying  950  feet  above  sea-level,  it  contains  two  islets, 


CROMARTY 

and  presents  an  irregular  outline,  with  utmost  length 
and  breadth  of  5^  and  4  furlongs. 

Crolin.    See  Croulix. 

Crom,  a  loch  on  the  mutual  border  of  Fodderty  and 
Kincardine  parish,  Ross-shire,  7J  miles  NW  of  the  head 
of  Loch  Glass.  Lying  1720  feet  above  sea-level,  it  has 
an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  f  mile  and  3^  lurlongs^ 
and  communicates  with  the  river  Carron. 

Cromack.     See  Ceammag. 

Cromal  or  Cromwell's  Mount,  a  circular  elevation  in 
Ardersier  parish,  XE  Inverness-shire,  on  the  ridge  of  hill 
behind  Campbeltown.  It  rises  about  20  feet  above  the 
adjacent  level  of  the  ridge  ;  is  crowned  by  an  ancient 
Caledonian  fort,  with  a  rampart  5  feet  high  and  360 
feet  in  circumference  ;  and  commands  a  very  extensive 
view,  including  parts  of  seven  or  eight  counties. 

Cromar,  a  sub-district  of  Aberdeenshire,  on  the  X  side 
of  the  middle  reach  of  the  river  Dee.  It  comprehends 
the  parishes  of  Coull,  Tarland^  and  Logie-Coldstone,  and 
a  small  part  of  Glenmuick. 

Cromarty,  the  county  town  and  a  parish  of  Cromarty- 
shire. A  seaport  and  parliamentary  burgh,  the  town 
lies  low  on  the  southern  shore  of  the  Cromarty  Firth,  2 
miles  W  by  S  of  its  Sutor-guarded  entrance,  4J  miles  E 
by  S  of  Invergordon  by  water  and  8  by  the  shore-road 
and  Invergordon  ferry,  llf  SSE  of  Tain,  9  XXE  of 
Foitrose,  and  19^  XXE  of  Inverness.  For  more  than 
three  centuries  the  sea  has  been  steadily  gaining  on  its 
site,  so  that  where  the  old  biirgh  stood  is  covered  deep 
by  each  returning  tide  ;  but  at  a  remote  period  the  sea 
came  higher  up  than  now,  and  its  ancient  margin  is 
marked  by  an  eminence  that,  rising  abruptly  from  the 
level  to  a  height  of  100  feet,  next  forms  a  tableland,  and 
thence  sweeps  gently  upward  to  the  Southern  Sutor. 
On  the  said  eminence,  right  above  the  town,  stood  the 
old  castle  of  the  Urquharts,  a  massy,  time-worn  building, 
battlemented,  stone-roofed,  and  sis  stories  high.  It  was 
rased  to  the  ground  in  1772,  and  its  place  is  occupied  by 
Cromarty  House  ;  hard  by,  a  column,  40  feet  high,  is  sur- 
mounted by  Handyside  Ritchie's  life-size  statue  (1859)  of 
Cromarty's  most  celebrated  son,  the  stonemason  geolo- 
gist and  author,  Hugh  Miller  (1802-56).  Even  before 
his  day  the  antique  gabled  houses  of  'Old  Cromarty' 
had  mostly  disappeared ;  but  their  successors  have  in 
turn  grown  old,  and  the  whole  place  presents  an  appear- 
ance of  picturesque  decay  and  desolation,  30  out  of  its 
287  domiciles  standing  imtenanted  in  1881.  The  Bay 
of  Cromarty  forms  one  of  the  finest  natural  harbours  in 
the  world,  and  during  winter  storms  ship  after  ship 
comes  pressing  into  it  for  shelter.  Thither  they  are 
guided  by  a  lighthouse,  whose  fixed  red  light  is  visible 
for  13  nautical  miles,  and  which  was  built  on  the  Point 
in  1846  at  a  cost  of  £3203.  From  a  commodious  quay, 
constructed  in  1785,  and  repaired  and  extended  in  1880, 
goods  valued  at  £25,000  were  shipped  to  London  in  1807. 
But  by  the  railwa}'  the  commerce  of  Easter  Ross  has 
been  diverted  to  Invergordon  ;  and  fishing  and  fish- 
curing  are  now  the  only  industries  of  Cromarty.  It  still 
is  head  of  the  fishery  district  between  Findhorn  and 
Helmsdale  Loch,  in  which  during  1880  there  were  cured 
2223  barrels  of  white  herrings,  besides  1504  cod,  Ung, 
and  hake, — taken  by  298  boats  of  2451  tons  ;  the  persons 
employed  being  904  fishermen  and  boys,  8  fish-curers, 
12  coopers,  and  831  others,  and  the  total  value  of  boats, 
nets,  and  lines  being  estimated  at  £30,505.  A  brewery, 
a  hemp  and  cloth  factory,  and  one  or  two  timber-yards 
have  all  been  closed  ;  two  fairs  have  become  extinct ; 
but  a  weekly  market  is  held,  in  name  at  least,  on  Tues- 
day. There  are  three  churches — the  16th  century 
parish  church,  described  as  '  a  true  Presbyterian  edi- 
fice ;'  an  Established  Gaelic  church,  built  about  1785  ; 
and  a  Free  church  :  and  Cromarty  has  besides  a  post 
office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph 
departments,  branches  of  the  Caledonian  and  Commer- 
cial Banks,  5  insurance  agencies,  3  hotels,  a  neat  town- 
hall  (1782)  with  cupola  and  clock,  a  masonic  lodge, 
and  3  benevolent  societies.  A  royal  burgh  once,  it  was 
reduced  in  1672  to  the  rank  of  a  burgh  of  barony,  but 
by  the  Reform  Act  of  1833  unites  with  the  other  five 

309 


CROMARTY 

Wick  burghs  in  returning  a  member  to  Parliament ;  and, 
having  adopted  the  General  Police  and  Improvement 
Act  of  1862,  is  governed  by  a  provost,  9  councillors,  and 
9  police  commissioners.  Its  parliamentary  and  muni- 
cipal constituency  numbered  83  in  1882,  when  its  valua- 
tion amounted  to  £1922.  Pop.  (ISOl)  1993,  (1831) 
2215,  (1851)  1988,  (1861)  1491,  (1871)  1476,  (1881) 
1352, 

Tlie  parish,  forming  the  north-eastern  extremity  of 
the  Black  Isle  peninsula,  is  bounded  N  by  Cromarty 
Firth,  SE  by  the  Moray  Firth  and  Rosemarkie,  SW  by 
Rosemarkie,  and  W  by  Resolis.  Its  utmost  length,  from 
NE  to  SW,  is  7i  miles  ;  its  width,  from  NW  to  SE,  varies 
between  1 J  and  2h  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  7060  acres. 
The  coast-line,  9h  miles  long,  presents  for  3  miles  to  the 
Moray  Firth  a  huge  brown  wall  of  beetling  precipice, 
rising  to  225  feet  near  JI'Farquhar's  Bed,  and  463  at 
the  Southern  Sutor,  whose  highest  knoll  is  termed  the 
Gallow  Hill,  from  its  having  been  the  place  of  execution. 
The  northern  shore,  on  the  other  hand,  all  along  Cro- 
marty Bay,  is  fringed  by  the  level  strip,  already  noticed, 
behind  which  the  green  bank  slopes  ujiwards  to  a  height 
in  places  of  100  feet ;  further  inland  the  surface  ascends 
to  the  broad  AuDMEANACii  ridge,  attaining  241  feet  near 
Newton,  477  near  Bannan,  and  548  near  Glenurquhart. 
The  Sutor,  or  '  Hill  of  Cromarty,'  to  quote  Hugh  J\Iiller, 
'  is  one  of  a  chain  belonging  to  the  great  Ben  Nevis  line 
of  elevation  ;  and,  though  it  occurs  in  an  Old  Red  sand- 
stone district,  is  itself  a  huge  primary  mass,  upheaved 
of  old  from  the  abyss,  and  composed  chiefly  of  gi'anitic 
gneiss  and  a  red  splintery  hornstone.  It  contains  also 
numerous  veins  and  beds  of  hornblend  rock  and  chlorite 
schist,  and  of  a  peculiar-looking  granite,  of  which  the 
quartz  is  white  as  milk,  and  the  felspar  red  as  blood.' 
In  the  cliff  are  two  lines  of  caves — one  hollowed  by  the 
waves  long  centmies  ago,  and  another  that  the  surf  is 
still  busy  scooping  out.  I\Iany  of  the  former — as  the 
Doocot  or  Pigeon  Caves,  and  the  inferior  though  better- 
kno^\'n  Droi)ping  Cave — 'are  lined  with  stalactites,  de- 
posited bj'  springs  that,  filtering  through  the  cracks  and 
fissures  of  the  gneiss,  find  time  enough  in  their  passage 
to  acquire  what  is  known  as  a  petrifying,  though,  in 
reality,  only  an  incrusting  quality.'  Garnets  are  plenti- 
ful along  the  shore,  where,  too,  are  the  Clach  Malloch 
or  Cursed  Stone,  an  enormous  granitic  boulder,  and  five 
vast  natural  archways  in  the  rocks.  But  for  full  exposi- 
tion of  Cromarty's  sermons  in  stones  the  reader  himself 
must  turn  to  Hugh  Miller's  Scenes  and  Lcjends  of  the 
North  of  Scotland  (1835)  and  My  Schools  and  School- 
masters (1854),  which  further  record  its  memories  of 
JIacbeth,  Thane  of  Cromarty  ;  of  Wallace's  fabled  defeat 
of  the  English,  4 J  miles  SW  of  the  town  ;  of  the  Chap- 
lain's Lair;  of  the  Black  Years  (1694-1701);  of  the 
Meal  ilob  (1741),  etc.  Towards  the  close  of  the  13th 
century  one  William  Urquhart  of  Cromarty  was  heritable 
sherifi"  of  the  county ;  among  his  descendants  was  the 
ail-but  admirable  Sir  Thomas  Urquhart  (1613-60),  trans- 
lator of  Rabelais,  and  author  of  128i  folio  quires  of  MS., 
wherein  he  discussed  as  many  or  more  original  inventions. 
That  wily  statesman,  Sir  Geo.  Mackenzie  of  Tarlaat  (1630- 
1714),  was  created  Viscount  Tarbat  in  1685  and  Earl  of 
Cromartie  in  1703.  His  second  son,  Kenneth,  who 
became  a  baronet  in  1704,  obtained  the  extensive  estate 
of  Cromarty  ;  but  his  eldest  son.  Sir  Geo.  Mackenzie, 
member  for  the  shire,  was  driven  by  bankruptcy  to  sell 
it  in  1741  to  William  Urquhart  of  ItlELDHUM.  Five 
years  later  the  earldom  was  attainted  in  the  person  of 
George,  third  Earl,  for  his  part  in  the  '45  ;  nor  was  it 
revived  till  1861,  and  then  in  favour  of  his  fourth 
descendant,  Anne  Hay-Mackenzie,  Duchess  of  Suther- 
land, with  limitation  to  her  second  son,  Francis,  Viscount 
Tarbat.  There  are  now  in  the  ]>arish  6  lesser  land- 
owners, 1  holding  an  annual  value  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  2  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  3  of  from  £20  to  £50  ; 
but  much  the  largest  proprietor  is  Col.  Geo.  Wm.  Holmes 
Ross  of  Cromarty  House  (b.  1825  ;  sue.  1852).  His 
estate  extends  over  7946  acres,  of  which  4112  arc  arable, 
2625  in  pasture,  and  1209  under  wood  ;  its  rental  has 
been  raised,  by  reclamations  and  other  inn)rovenients, 
310 


CROMARTYSHIRE 

from  £5144  in  1850  to  £6128.  The  soil  is  principally 
loam,  but  clay  abounds  in  some  parts,  and  moorish  soil 
in  others  ;  and  the  rent  of  an  acre  ranges  from  10s.  to  60s. 
The  moorish  land  reclaimed  at  a  cost  of  £20  per  acre 
was  previously  under  wood  ;  on  the  other  hand,  all  the 
available  waste  has  been  planted  (pp.  107-111  of  Trans. 
Uighl.  and  Ag.  Soc,  1877).  Cromarty  is  in  the  pres- 
bytery of  Chanonry  and  synod  of  Ross  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £399.  Prior  to  the  Reformation  there  were  six 
chapels  within  its  bounds,  three  of  which  were  dedicated 
to  SS.  Duthac,  Bonnet,  and  Regidus ;  but  scarcely  a 
vestige  remains  of  any  one  of  them ;  whilst  a  Red  or 
Trinitarian  priory,  founded  about  1271,  has  vanished 
utterly.  In  1875-76  two  new  board  schools  were  built 
at  a  cost  of  £6000  in  the  town  and  at  Peddicston,  4 J 
miles  to  the  SW.  With  respective  accommodation  for 
300  and  120  children,  these  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  164  and  40,  and  grants  of  £134,  8s.  6d. 
and  £19,  5s.  Pop.  (1801)  2413,  (1831)  2901,  (1841) 
2662,  (1861)  2300,  (1871)  2180,  (1881)  2009.— On/.  Sur., 
sh.  94,  1878.  See  P.  Payne's  Life  of  Hugh  Miller  (2 
vols.,  1871),  andWm.  Fraser's  Earls  of  Cromartie  :  their 
Kindred,  Country,  and  Correspondence  (2  vols.,  1876). 

Cromarty  Bay,  a  southward  expansion  of  Cromarty 
Firth,  4§  miles  wide  across  a  chord  drawn  west-by- 
soiithward  from  Cromarty  to  Newhall  Point,  the  distance 
from  that  chord  to  the  inmost  recess  of  the  shore  being 
1^  mile.  Its  sandy  south-western  corner,  ofi'ering  at 
low-water  a  broad  expanse  of  foreshore,  is  known  as 
Udale  Bay. 

Cromarty  Firth,  the  estuary  of  the  river  Con.vn,  in 
Ross  and  Cromarty,  commencing  between  Marj'burgh 
and  Dingwall,  5|  miles  N  of  the  head  of  Beauly  Fii'th, 
and  thence  extending  19|  north-eastward  and  eastward 
to  the  Moray  Firth,  where  its  entrance,  7  furlongs  broad, 
is  guarded  by  the  North  and  South  Sutors,  400  and 
463  feet  high.  Its  width  is  If  mile  near  Kinnaird 
House,  1§  at  Kiltearn  manse,  1  at  Balconie  Point, 
1 J  at  Alness  Bay,  f  at  Invergordon,  and  7|  miles  from 
the  head  of  Udale  Bay  north-eastward  to  the  head  of 
Nigg  Bay ;  but  that  of  its  channel  nowhere  exceeds  9 
furlongs  above  Invergordon.  On  its  right  lie  the  parishes 
of  Urquhart,  Resolis,  and  Cromarty,  on  its  left  of  Ding- 
wall, Kiltearn,  Alness,  Rosskeen,  Kilmuir  Easter,  Logie 
Easter,  and  Nigg ;  and  it  receives  the  Peft'ery,  Ault- 
grande,  and  Alness  rivers  on  its  left  side,  which  is  closely 
followed  by  the  Highland  railway.  Again  we  must  turn 
to  Hugh  Miller  for  a  description  of  the  broad  and  deep 
lowest  reach,  as  viewed  from  the  Moray  Fii'th  in  a  clear 
morning  of  summer  : — '  The  foreground  is  occupied  by 
a  gigantic  wall  of  bro^^Ti  precipices,  beetling  for  many 
miles  over  the  edge  of  the  firth,  and  crested  by  dark 
thickets  of  furze  and  pine.  A  multitude  of  shapeless 
crags  lie  scattered  along  the  base,  and  we  hear  the  noise 
of  the  waves  breaking  against  them,  and  see  the  reflected 
gleam  of  the  foam  flashing  at  intervals  into  the  darker 
recesses  of  the  rock.  The  waters  find  entrance,  as  de- 
scribed by  liuclianan,  through  a  natural  postern  scooped 
out  of  the  jniildle  of  this  immense  wall.  The  huge  pro- 
jections of  clilf  on  either  hand,  with  their  alternate 
masses  of  light  and  shadow,  remind  us  of  the  out-jets 
and  buttresses  of  an  ancient  fortress ;  and  the  two  Sutors, 
towering  over  the  opening,  of  turrets  built  to  command 
a  gateway.  The  scenery  within  is  of  a  softer  and  more 
gentle  character.  We  see  hanging  woods,  sloping  pro- 
montories, a  little  quiet  town,  and  an  undulating  line 
of  blue  mountains,  swelling  as  they  retire  into  a  bolder 
outline  and  a  loftier  altitude,  until  they  terminate,  some 
20  miles  away,  in  snow-streaked,  cloud-cajiped  Ben 
Wyvis.'— On?.  Sur.,  shs.  83,  93,  94,  1881-78. 

Cromartyshire,  a  county,  interlaced  with  Ross-shire, 
in  the  N  of  Scotland.  It  comprehends  an  ancient 
sheriirdom,  hereditary  in  the  family  of  Unpihart  ol'  Cro- 
marty, and  detached  districts  annexed  in  tlie  latter  part 
of  tlic  17th  century,  at  the  instance  of  Viscount  Tarbat, 
afterwards  Earl  of  Cromarty.  The  ancient  sherifl'dom, 
or  olil  shire,  comprises  Cromarty  parish,  the  greater 
part  of  Resolis  parish,  and  an  undefined  portion  of  the 
Mullbuy  ;  and  is  usually  stated  to  have  a  length  of  about 


i®RAT 


T^^TiTBARTHOLOMtW    EDINBURGH 


i  f  F  [  rllj  J    ji^x^AULY;  CROMAilTrAlTiD  MORAY 


J 


CROMBIE 

16  miles,  a  breadth  of  about  6h  or  7  miles,  and  an  area 
of  about  39,690  acres.  The  detached  districts  are  a 
district  surrounding  Tarbat  House,  on  the  NE  seaboard 
of  Cromarty  Firth  ;  a  district  commencing  on  the  Dor- 
noch Firth  a  little  E  of  Tain,  and  extending  eastward 
to  the  Moray  Firth  in  the  vicinity  of  Geanis  ;  two  small 
tracts  in  Kincardine  pai-ish,  adjacent  to  the  river  Carron  ; 
a  district  extending  west-north-westward  from  the  vici- 
nit}"^  of  Dingwall,  and  including  Castle-Leod  and  part  of 
Ben  Wyvis  ;  two  tracts  on  the  N  of  respectively  Loch 
Fannich  and  Loch  Nid  ;  a  tract  along  the  S  side  of  the 
middle  and  upper  parts  of  Little  Loch  Broom  ;  the  large 
district  of  Coigach,  lying  between  Loch  Broom  and 
Sutherland,  and  extending  to  Loch  Enard  and  Rhu  More 
promontory ;  and  the  Summer  islands,  lying  in  the  N 
side  of  the  mouth  of  Loch  Broom.  These  eight  are  esti- 
mated to  measure  aggi-egately  about  344  square  miles, 
or  220,586  acres.  The  ancient  valuation  of  the  property 
was  £12,896  ;  but  the  modern  valuation  of  the  property, 
and  all  the  other  modern  statistics,  are  merged  into 
those  of  Ross-shire.  Tlie  county  has  a  court  of  lieuten- 
ancy of  its  own  ;  but  it  has  no  sheriff  or  even  sheriff- 
substitute  of  its  own ;  and,  as  to  its  fiscal  affairs,  its 
parliamentary  representation,  and  even  its  parochial 
distribution  and  its  territorial  character,  \vith  tlie  ex- 
ception only  of  Cromarty  parish,  it  is  always  practically 
treated  as  simplj'-  a  component  part  of  Ross-shire. 

Crombie,  a  small  village  and  an  ancient  parish  in  the 
SW  extremity  of  Fife.  The  village  stands  1^  mile  S  of 
Cairneyhill,  and  3^  miles  SW  of  Dunfermline.  The 
parish  is  now  incorporated  with  Torryburn,  comprising 
that  part  of  it  to  the  S  of  the  Burn  of  Torry,  and  also 
certain  detached  lands,  which,  distant  7^  miles,  are 
annexed  quoad  sacra  to  Saline.  Its  church  stood  on  a 
commanding  site,  overlooking  the  Firth  of  Forth,  and 
is  now  represented  by  some  ruins. 

Crombie,  a  burn  in  Kingoldrum  parish,  Forfarshire. 
It  rises  2  miles  JT  of  Kingoldrum  village  ;  runs  past  that 
village  ;  describes  a  semicircle  toward  the  E  ;  proceeds 
If  mile  west-south-westward;  and  falls  into  the  river 
Jlelgum. 

Crombie,  a  burn  in  the  S  of  Inveraven  parish,  Banff- 
shire, rising  close  to  the  Aberdeenshire  border,  at  2400 
feet  above  sea-level,  and  running  7:^  miles  north-north- 
westward to  Livet  "Water  at  Tombae. 

Crombie,  a  burn  and  an  old  castle  in  Marnoch  parish, 
Banffshire.  The  burn,  rising  near  the  Ordiquhill  border, 
runs  3  miles  southward  to  the  Deveron  at  Marnoch 
manse  ;  and  the  castle  stands  on  the  right  side  of  the 
bm-u,  IJ  mile  N  of  the  said  manse.  Supposed  to  be 
very  ancient,  and  looking  to  have  been  a  place  of  some 
strength,  it  now  consists  of  three  stories,  but  formerly  was 
much  higher  ;  and  belongs  now  to  the  Earl  of  Seafield. 

Crombie  Point,  a  small  headland,  a  small  harbour, 
and  a  hamlet  in  Torryburn  parish,  SW  Fife,  on  the 
Firth  of  Forth,  1^  mile  SE  of  Torryburn  village,  and 
If  W  by  N  of  Charlestown.  The  harbour  is  a  calling 
place  of  the  Granton  and  Stirling  steamers. 

Cromdale,  a  parish,  chiefly  in  Elginshire,  but  partly 
also  in  Inverness-shire.  In  its  Elginshire  portion,  on  the 
Spey's  right  bank,  is  Cromdale  station  on  the  Strathspey 
section  of  the  Great  Iv'orth  of  Scotland,  3  miles  NE  of 
Granto\vn  station  and  21  SW  of  Craigellachie  Junction  ; 
near  it  are  a  post  office  under  Grantown,  a  new  public 
school  (1877),  the  parish  church  (1809;  900  sittings), 
and  a  viire  suspension  footbridge  (1881)  over  the  Spey, 
195  feet  in  span. 

The  parish,  till  1870  mainly  in  Inverness-shire,  con- 
tains also  the  town  of  Ghantown  ;  the  station  of  Dava, 
at  the  XW  border,  Sh  miles  NNW  of  Grantown  ;  the 
station  of  Advie  ;  and  the  station  of  Broomhill,  3| 
miles  SSW  of  Grantown.  It  is  bounded  XW  by  Eilin- 
killie;  NE  by  Knockando;  E  by  Inveraven,  and  SE  by 
Kirkmichael,  in  Banffshire  ;  S  by  Abernethy,  and  SW 
by  Duthil,  in  Inverness-shire  ;  and  W  by  Ardclach,  in 
Nairnshire.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NE  to  SW,  is  16 
miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  N  W  to  SE,  is  llg  miles ; 
and  its  area  is  64,253  acres,  of  which  899;^  are  water.  The 
Spey  winds  20^^-  miles  north-eastward  along  the  border 


CROOK 

and  through  the  interior,  descending  in  this  course  from 
about  680  to  480  feet  above  .sea-level  ;  and  the  Divie 
and  Dorbock,  feeders  of  the  Findhorn,  rise  in  the  NW 
corner  of  the  parish,  the  Dorbock  issuing  from  Lochin'- 
DORB,  which,  2^  miles  long  and  from  IJ  to  5  furlongs 
broad,  lies  at  an  altitude  of  769  feet  on  the  Edinkillie 
boundary.  To  the  S  of  it  lie  Loch  an  t-Sithein  (2f  x  1 
furl.),  Lochan  Dubh  (1  x  4  furl. ),  and  Loch  Ruigh  a' 
Bhuair  (2x1  furl.).  Chief  elevations  to  the  left  or  W 
of  the  Spey,  from  NE  to  SW,  are  Gallow  Hill  (1210 
feet),  Geal  Charn  (1487),  Carn  na  h-Eige  (1673),  Larig 
Hill  (1783),  Creag  a'  Bharrain  (1324),  Cam  an  Loiti 
(1798),  Carn  na  Doire  (1294),  Carn  Bad  na  Caorach 
(1557),  Craig  Tiribog  (1586),  and  Beinn  Mhor  (1545); 
whilst  to  the  right,  on  the  Banffshire  and  Inverness- 
shire  border,  rise  Tom  a  Chait  (1646  feet),  Creag  an 
Tarmachain  (2121),  Carn  Eachie  (2329),  and  Tom  Biath 
(1163),  tliese  latter  belonging  to  the  heathy  Cromdale 
Hills.  Granite  is  a  predominant  rock  ;  and  limestone 
of  prime  quality  abounds  in  places,  and  has  been  largely 
worked  for  both  building  and  manure.  The  soil  of  the 
haughs  along  the  Spey  is  very  fertile  ;  that  of  the  other 
arable  lands  is  generally  thin  and  dry.  Barely  a  tenth 
of  the  entire  area  is  under  the  plough,  and  woods  and 
plantations  cover  at  least  as  much,  the  country  round 
Granto\vn,  and  indeed  the  whole  strath  of  the  Spey, 
being  finely  adorned  with  trees.  On  May  1,  1690,  the 
war  in  Scotland  between  James  VII.  and  William  of 
Orange  was  virtually  ended  by  the  affair  of  the  Haughs 
of  Cromdale,  when,  at  a  spot  2h  miles  E  by  S  of  Crom- 
dale station,  the  dragoons  of  Sir  Thomas  Livingstone 
surprised  Buchan's  sleeping  Highlanders,  800  in  number, 
slaying  more  than  300,  and  taking  100  prisoners. 
The  ruined  castle  of  Muckerach  is  separately  noticed,  as 
like^ase  is  Castle-Grant, whose  owner,  Ian  Charles  Grant- 
Ogilvie,  eighth  Earl  of  Seafield  (b.  1851  ;  sue.  1881), 
is  almost  the  sole  proprietor.  In  the  presbytery  of 
Abernethy  and  synod  of  Moray,  Cromdale  comprises  the 
ancient  parishes  of  Inverallan  and  Advie,  and  is  now 
divided  into  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Inverallan  and 
Cromdale,  the  latter  being  worth  £298,  with  manse  and 
glebe.  Besides  two  schools  in  Grantown,  four  public 
schools — Achanarrow,  Ad\ae,  Cromdale,  and  Dava — 
with  respective  accommodation  for  70  90,  100,  and  50 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  33,  34, 
55,  and  29,  and  grants  of  £40,  2s.,  £26,  lis.,  £35,  16s., 
and  £36,  13s.  6d.  Valuation  (1881)  £13,554,  2s.,  of 
which  £1627,  18s.  was  in  the  Inverness-shire  section. 
Pop.  (1801)2187, (1831)  3234,  (1861) 3943, (1871)  3817, 
(1881)  3642,  of  whom  1166  were  in  Cromdale  quoad  sacra 
parish. — Ord.   Sur.,  shs.  74,  75,  84,  85,  1876-77. 

Cromlix,  a  barony  in  Dunblane  parish,  Perthshire, 
around  Dunblane  town.  Cromlix  Cottage,  4  miles  N 
of  Dunblane,  is  a  seat  of  the  Hon.  Arthur  Hay  Drum- 
mond,  the  late  Earl  of  KinnouU's  third  son  (b.  1833  ; 
sue.  1866),  who  owns  7465  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£4240  per  annum.  The  mineral  wells  of  Cromlix  are 
noticed  in  connection  with  Duxblaxe  Hydropathic 
Establishment. 

Cromore.     See  Eeisoet,  Loch. 

Cromwell  Park,  a  village,  with  bleach-works,  in  Red- 
gorton  parish,  Perthshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Almond,  1^^  mile  NW  of  Almondbank. 

Cromwell's  Fort.     See  Ayr  and  Inverness. 

Cromwell's  Mount.     See  Broxmouth. 

Crona,  two  small  flat  islets  of  Assynt  parish,  Suther- 
land, 5  furlongs  SW  of  Oldany  island. 

Cronberry,  a  village  of  recent  origin  in  Auchinleck 
parish,  Ayrshire,  2  miles  NE  by  N  of  Lugar.  It  owes 
its  origin  to  iron-works  of  the  Eglinton  Iron  Co.,  and 
has  a  school  in  connection  therewith.  Pop.  (1871)  997, 
(18S1)  799. 

Crook  or  Creuch,  a  summit  (1446  feet)  on  the  western 
border  of  Kilmalcolm  parish,  Renfrewshire,  f  mile  from 
the  A3'rshire  border,  and  5  miles  S  by  W  of  Greenock. 

Crook,  a  place  on  the  N  border  of  St  Ninians  ii;irish, 
Stirlingshire,  on  tiie  Haimock  rivulet,  1^  mile  ESE  of 
Stirling.  Miss  Elizabeth  Hamilton  (1758-1816)  resided 
at  it  whilst  writing  her  Cottagers  of  Glenburnie. 

311 


CBOOK 

Crook,  an  inn  on  the  mutual  liorder  of  Tweedsmuir 
and  Dmiunielzier  parishes,  S  Peeblesshire,  standing,  746 
feet  above  sea-level,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Tweed,  1 J 
mile  NNE  of  Tweedsmuir  church  and  12  miles  SSE  of 
Biggar,  under  which  it  lias  a  post  oflice.  A  well-known 
hostelry  in  the  old  coaching  days,  it  now  is  only  a  resort 
of  anglers  for  the  head-waters  of  the  Tweed.  Nether 
Oliver  Dod  (1673  feet)  culminates  f  mile  to  the  WSW. 

Crook,  Forfarshire.     See  CuuicK. 

Crookedholm,  a  village  in  Kilmarnock  parish,  Ayr- 
shire, on  the  right  bank  of  the  Irvine,  li  mile  ESE  of 
Kilmarnock  town,  and  f  mile  N  of  Hurlford  Junction. 
At  it  are  a  public  school  and  a  worsted  siiinning-mill, 
in  connection  with  carpet  factories  in  Kilmarnock.  Pop. 
(1S61)  6-20,  (1S71)  770,  (ISSl)  657. 

Crook  of  Alves,  a  hamlet  in  Alves  parish,  Elginshire, 
8i  furlongs  N  of  Alves  station. 

Crook  of  Devon,  a  small  old  village  in  the  Kinross- 
Bhire  section  of  Fossoway  parish,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Devon,  at  its  sharp  westward  bend  or  crook,  witli  a 
station  on  the  Devon  Valley  section  of  the  North  British, 
14  mile  ENE  of  Rumbling- Bridge,  and  6  miles  WSW  of 
Kinross.     It  is  a  burgh  of  baronJ^ 

Crookston,  an  estate,  with  a  ruined  castle,  on  the  E 
border  of  Abbey  parish,  Renfrewshire.  The  estate  be- 
longed in  the  12th  century  to  Robert  de  Croc,  a  gentle- 
man of  Norman  ancestry,  and  passing  by  marriage  in 
the  13th  to  the  illustrious  family  of  Stewart,  was  then 
united  to  the  estates  of  Darnley,  Neilston,  Inchinnan, 
and  Tarbolton.  It  was  held  by  Henry,  Lord  Darnley 
(1546-67),  who  became  the  husband  of  Queen  Mary ; 
and  in  1572  was  granted  to  his  younger  brother  Charles 
Stewart,  fifth  Earl  of  Lennox.  Afterwards  it  passed 
through  many  hands  to  the  Duke  of  Montrose,  and 
was  purchased  from  the  second  Duke  in  1757  by  Sir 
John  Maxwell  of  PoUok.  The  castle  stands  on  the 
summit  of  a  wooded  slope,  overhanging  the  left  bank  of 
Levern  Water,  3  furlongs  above  its  influx  to  the  White 
Cart,  and  3J  miles  ESE  of  Paisley.  Once  a  massive 
edifice,  with  centre,  two  lofty  towers,  and  battlemented 
wings,  surrounded  by  a  rampart  and  a  moat,  it  now 
consists  of  only  one  shattered  tower,  50  feet  high.  John 
Wilson,  Tannahill,  Motherwell,  Burns,  and  many  anony- 
mous poets  have  celebrated  Crookston  in  verse ;  and 
most  persons,  though  on  little  better  authority  than 
loose  tradition,  believe  that  it,  not  Wemyss,  was  the 
scene  of  Lord  Darnley's  betrothal  to  Queen  Mary  in 
1565,  and  the  place  where  they  spent  the  days  im- 
Diediatel}-  after  their  marriage.  A  stately  j'ew,  known 
as  'the  Crookston  Tree,'  standing  a  little  to  the  E,  and 
popularly  regarded  as  having  been  a  favourite  haunt  of 
the  royal  lovers,  became  eventually  blasted  and  leafless, 
less  from  natural  decay  than  in  consequence  of  being 
hacked  and  hewn  by  relic-hunters  for  pieces  to  be  con- 
verted into  snuff-boxes  and  small  ornamental  ai'ticles, 
till  it  was  eventually  rooted  up  by  Sir  John  Maxwell  in 
1817.  Common  tradition,  too,  asserts  that  Queen  Mary 
from  Crookston  Castle  viewed  the  battle  of  Langside, — 
a  tradition  adopted  by  Wilson  in  his  poem  of  the  Clyde, 
and  by  Sir  Walter  Scott,  both  in  his  novel  of  The  Abbot 
and  in  his  History  of  Scotland;  but  the  castle  is  3A 
miles  W  by  N  of  the  battlefield,  is  completely  hid  from 
it  by  intervening  heights,  and,  moreover,  was  in  the 
rear,  not  of  the  Queen's  army,  but  of  the  enemy. — Ord. 
Siir. ,  sh.  30,  1866.  See  David  Semple's  Tree  of  Crocston  : 
being  a  Refutation  of  the  Fables  of  the  Courtshi})  of  Queen 
Marie  and  Lord  Darnley  under  the  Yew  Tree  (Paisley, 
1876). 

Crookston,  an  estate  in  Borthwick  and  Stow  parishes, 
Edinburghshire.  Its  mansion,  in  the  NE  of  Stow, 
stands  on  the  left  bank  of  flala  Water,  If,'  mile  N  of 
Fountainhall  station,  and  is  the  seat  of  John  Borthwick, 
Esq.  (b.  1825;  sue.  1846),  who  holds  9723  acres  in 
Edinburgh  and  Berwick  shires,  valued  at  £5851  per 
annum.     See  Borthwick. 

Croot,  a  loch  (12  x  jf  furl.)  in  Kirkmichael  parish, 
Ayrshire,  near  Ijarnsheau  Loch,  and  3J  miles  NE  of 
Kirkmichael  village. 

Crosbol.     See  Cuaspul. 
312 


CROSSGATES 

Crosby.     See  Tkoon  and  Duxdonald. 

Cross.     See  Luce,  Water  of. 

Cross.     See  Bakvas,  Lewis. 

Crossall,  a  sTnall  eminence  in  Dalmeny  parish,  Lin- 
lithgowshire, If  mile  ESE  of  Queensferry.  It  is  sur- 
mounted by  remains  of  an  ancient  stone  cross,  and,  in 
pre-Reformation  times,  was  a  station  of  devotees  on 
pilgrimage  to  Dunfermline. 

Cross  and  Bumess,  a  united  parish  in  the  N  of 
Orkney,  comprising  the  south-western  and  north- 
western limbs  of  Sunday  island,  and  also,  in  its  quoad 
civilia  estate,  the  island  of  North  Ronaldsha3\  It 
contains  a  post  office  of  the  name  of  Sanday,  with  money 
order  and  saviags'  bank  departments,  under  Kirkwall ; 
and,  bordered  on  the  E  for  1^  mile  by  Lady  parish,  is 
on  all  other  sides  surrounded  by  the  sea.  Cross,  which 
forms  the  south-western  section,  terminates  in  a  dismal 
moor  of  200  acres,  separating  it  from  Bukness.  Well 
sheltered  by  Eday  from  westerly  winds,  it  presents  a 
diversified  surface,  which  rises  at  two  points  to  more 
than  300  feet  above  sea-level,  and  breaks  down,  at  one 
of  its  heights,  in  a  coast  precipice  perforated  by  curious 
caverns  ;  a  considerable  lake  is  occasionally  visited  by 
flocks  of  wild  swans.  Burness,  separated  on  the  E  from 
the  greater  part  of  Lady  parish  by  Otterswick  Bay,  has 
flat  shores  and  a  verdant  fertile  surface.  The  rocks  are 
sandstone,  sandstone  flag,  and  a  little  limestone.  The 
neiglibouring  sea-waters  produce  enormous  quantities  of 
shell-fish.  This  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  North 
Isles  and  s)mod  of  Orkney  ;  the  living  is  worth  £245. 
There  are  two  parish  churches.  Cross,  with  248  sittings, 
and  Burness  with  262.  In  May  1880,  in  making  ex- 
cavations for  the  foundations  of  an  addition  to  the 
manse,  it  was  discovered  that  the  old  building,  lately 
demolished,  had  been  standing  on  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
broch.     For  schools  and  population  see  Sanday. 

Crossbasket,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  the  NE 
corner  of  East  Kilbride  parish,  Lanarkshire,  f  mile  W 
by  S  of  High  Blantyre  station. 

Crossbost,  a  hamlet  in  Lochs  parish,  Lewis  island, 
Outer  Hebrides,  Ross-shire,  on  the  northern  shore  of 
salt-water  Loch  Luirbost,  9  miles  SSW  of  Stornoway, 
imder  which  it  has  a  post  office.  Near  it  are  a  new 
Free  church  (1881),  and  Luirbost  public  schooL 

Crosschain  Hill.     See  Fala. 

Crossfield  Hill.     See  Unst. 

Crossford,  a  village  in  the  N  of  Lcsmahago  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Clyde,  imme- 
diately above  the  Nethan's  influx,  4^  miles  NW  by  W 
of  Lanark,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office.  At  it  are 
Free  and  U. P.  churches;  and  near  it  are  the  ruins  of 
Ckaignethan.  '  In  1686,'  saj's  honest  Patrick  Walker, 
'  many  people  gathered  together  about  Crossford,  where 
there  were  showers  of  bonnets,  hats,  guns,  and  swords, 
which  covered  the  trees  and  ground  ;  companies  of  men  in 
arms  marching  along  the  water  side  ;  coni[)anies  meeting 
comjianies  all  through  other,  and  then  all  falling  to  the 
ground,  and  disap])earing,  and  other  companies  appear- 
ing the  same  way.  I  went  there  three  afternoons 
together,  and,  as  I  could  observe,  there  were  two  of  the 
people  that  were  together  saw,  and  a  third  that  saw  not ; 
and  though  I  could  see  nothing,  yet  there  was  such  a 
fright  and  trembling  upon  those  that  did  see,  that  was 
discernible  to  all  from  those  that  saw  not,'  etc.  (Cham- 
bers's Domestic  Annals,  ii.  485).  Pop.  (1841)  431, 
(1861)  530,  (1871)  543,  (1881)  816.— O^t^.  Sur.,  sh.  23, 
1865. 

Crossford,  a  village,  with  a  public  school,  in  Dunferm- 
line parish,  Fife,  Ih  mile  WSAV  of  Dunferndine  town. 

Crossford.      See  Glencaiiix,  Dumfriesshire. 

Crossgatehall,  a  hamlet  in  Inveresk  parish,  Edin- 
burghshire, 2  miles  SSE  of  Inveresk  station. 

Crossgates,  a  village  on  the  inutual  border  of  Dun- 
fermline and  Dalgety  parishes,  Fife,  with  a  station  on 
the  North  ]'>ritish  railway,  3^  miles  ENE  of  Dunferm- 
line. Inhabited  chiefly  by  colliers,  it  is  surrounded  at 
near  distances  by  extensive  coal  mines  ;  adjoins  lines  of 
mineral  railway,  communicating  with  St  David's  har- 
bour on  Inverkeithing  Bay  ;  and  has  a  post  office,  with 


CROSSGATES 


CROSSPOL 


money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments, 
2  hotels,  a  U.P.  church  (1802;  531  sittings),  and  a 
public  school,  -which,  with  accommodation  for  160 
children,  had  (ISSO)  an  average  attendance  of  124,  and 
a  grant  of  £91,  2s.  Pop.  (1841)  646,  (1861)  1115,  (1871) 
1181,  (1881)  1215. 

Crossgates,  a  hamlet  on  the  "W  border'of  Cults  parish, 
Fife,  3  furlongs  SW  of  Pitlessie. 

Crossgellioch,  a  wild  mossy  moor  in  Carsphairn 
parish,  N  Kirkcudbrightshire.  Three  Covenanters,  plain 
country  men,  when  returning  from  a  conventicle  in  the 
vicinity,  in  the  winter  of  1684,  were  met  here  by  Claver- 
house  and  a  party  of  his  men,  and  were  summarily  shot. 
Their  bodies  were  bm-ied  on  the  moor  ;  and,  at  a  recent 
period,  were  found  embalmed  in  the  moss,  '  shrouded  in 
their  hosen,  in  their  coats,  and  in  their  bonnets,  exactly 
as  they  fell.' 

Crossgills,  a  hamlet  in  Ruthwell  parish,  S  Dum- 
friesshire, 3  furlongs  NW  of  Ruthwell  station. 

Crosshall,  a  colliery  village  in  the  SW  of  Polmont 
parish,  Stirlingshire,  2^  miles  SSE  of  Falkirk. 

Crosshall,  an  ancient  monument  in  Eccles  parish,  Ber- 
%vickshire,  1  mile  N  of  Eccles  village.  It  comprises  a 
monolithic  sandstone  pedestal,  9  feet  square  and  2^  high, 
and  a  monolithic  sandstone  column,  rising  fully  10  feet 
from  the  pedestal,  through  which  it  passes  deep  into 
the  ground,  and  carved  in  its  N  and  S  faces  with  curious 
sculptures.  It  is  thought  by  some  antiquaries  to  have 
been  raised  to  the  memory  of  a  Percy  of  Northumberland, 
by  others  to  have  been  erected  after  the  second  crusade, 
in  the  latter  half  of  the  12th  century,  to  the  memory  of 
the  father  of  Sir  John  de  Soulis.  The  place  where  it 
stands  was  formerly  called  Deadriggs,  and  is  tradition- 
ally said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  a  bloody  battle. 

Crosshands,  a  village,  with  a  public  school,  in  Mauch- 
line  parish,  Ayrshire,  2  miles  KNW  of  Mauchline 
village. 

Crosshill,  a  village  in  Kirkmichael  parish,  AjTshire, 
and  a  quoad  sacra  jjarish  partly  also  in  Kirkoswald  and 
Maybole  parishes.  The  village  stands  on  the  left  bank 
of  Girvan  Water,  3  miles  SE  of  Maybole,  and  2S  NE  of 
Kilkerran  station.  Chiefly  consisting  of  a  long  regular 
street  of  one-story  houses,  running  at  right  angles  from 
the  river,  it  has  a  post  office  under  Maybole,  with 
money  order  and  savings'  bank  departments,  a  principal 
inn,  an  Established  chui'ch  (1838),  a  Free  chui'ch,  and  a 
school.  The  quoaA  sacra  parish,  constituted  in  1853,  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  s}'nod  of  Glasgow  and 
Ayr ;  its  two  public  schools,  Crossbill  and  Kilkerran 
Hillside,  with  respective  accommodation  for  270  and 
61  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  159 
and  52,  and  grants  of  £125,  14s.  and  £39,  3s.  Pop. 
of  village  (1841)  116-3,  (1861)  1107,  (1871)  835,  (ISSl) 
740  ;  of?,  s.  palish  (1871)  1372,  (1881)  1284,  of  whom 
1006  were  in  Kirkmichael. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  14,  1863. 

Crosshill,  a  south-eastern  outbreak  of  Baillieston 
village,  in  Old  Monkland  parish,  Lanarkshire. 

Crosshill.     See  Govanhill. 

Crosshill.     See  Strathave^. 

Crosshouse,  a  village  in  Kilmaurs  parish,  Ayrshire, 
on  Carmel  Water,  2^  miles  W  of  Kilmarnock,  and  1 
mile  SSAV  of  Crosshouse  station.  At  it  is  the  handsome 
Established  church  (1882 ;  450  sittings)  of  a  quoad 
sacra  parish,  formed  out  of  Kilmaurs  and  Dreghorn,  and 
also  a  public  school.  Coal  has  long  been  wrought  in  the 
vicinity,  and  ironstone  during  the  last  12  or  13  years. 
Pop.  of  village  (1861)  468,  (1871)  713,  (1881)  631 ;  of 
q.  s.  parish  (1881)  2424. 

Crosshouses,  a  hamlet  in  Kettle  parish,  Fife,  2  miles 
SE  by  E  of  Kettle  village. 

Cross  Isle,  a  small  island  in  Dunrossness  parish, 
Shetland,  off  the  mouth  of  Quendal  Bay,  3^  mUes  WNW 
of  Sunburgh  Head. 

Crosskirk,  a  place  on  the  SW  coast  of  Westray 
Island,  Orkney,  distant  1  mile  from  Westray  manse. 
A  pre-Reformation  church  here  was  used  by  Presby- 
terians till  about  1776,  and  then  became  ruinous ;  its 
ancient  burjing-ground  is  still  in  use. 

Crosslee,  a  hamlet  in  Stow  parish,  Edinburghshire, 


on  the  south-eastern  verge  of  the  county,  near  Gala 
Water  and  Bowland  station,  3  miles  S  of  Stow  village, 
under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 

Crosslee,  a  village  in  Houston  parish,  Renfrewshire, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Gryfe,  2^  miles  NW  of  John- 
stone station.  A  cotton  mill,  built  here  in  1793,  was 
burned  down  about  1858  ;  and  the  villagers  now  are 
mainly  employed  in  the  neighbouring  oil-works  of 
Clippens.     Pop.  (1861)  383,  (1871)  379,  (1881)  400. 

Crossmichael,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  central  Kirk- 
cudbrightsliire.  The  village,  pleasantly-seated  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  lake-like  Dee,  with  a  station  upon  the 
Glasgow  and  South-Western,  3|  miles  NW  of  Castle- 
Douglas,  has  an  inn  and  a  post  office  ;  but  its  cross,  St 
Michael's,  round  which  was  held  a  Michaelmas  fair,  has 
long  since  disappeared. 

Containing  also  Clarebrand  hamlet  and  a  north- 
western outskirt  of  Castle -Douglas,  the  parish  is 
bounded  NE  by  Kirkpatrick-Durham  and  Urr,  SE  by 
Buittle,  S  by  Kelton,  SW  by  Balmaghie,  and  NW  by 
Parton.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NAV  to  SE,  is  5g  miles  ; 
its  breadth,  from  NE  to  SW,  varies  between  2f  and  4| 
miles  ;  and  its  area  is  10,148J  acres,  of  which  220J  are 
water.  The  Dee  winds  44  miles  south-south-eastward 
along  all  the  boundary  with  Balmaghie,  Urr  Water 
4|  along  that  with  Kirkpatrick-Dm-ham  and  Urr  ;  and 
in  the  interior  are  Lochs  Culgruft  (2x1  furl.),  Erncrogo 
(3  X  li),  RoAX  (3i  X  2g),  and  Smaddy  (1  x  f ),  with  three 
or  four  tinier  lakelets.  The  surface,  which  sinks  along 
the  Dee  to  less  than  200,  and  along  Urr  Water  to  less 
than  100,  feet  above  sea-level,  has  a  general  north- 
north-westerly  rise,  being  studded  by  a  number  of  low 
eminences,  and  culminating  at  711  feet  on  the  western 
shore  of  Loch  Roan.  The  rocks  are  chiefly  Silurian  ; 
and  the  soils  of  the  arable  lands,  along  the  streams  and 
among  the  hills,  which  in  places  are  cultivated  up  to 
the  top,  are  extremely  various,  including  fine  alluvium 
and  rich  loam,  -with  some  tilly  clay,  but  chiefly  present- 
ing a  sandy  character.  Near  Glenlochar  Bridge  stood 
an  abbey,  whose  history  is  utterly  lost ;  and  of  six  moats, 
the  largest  and  best-defined  is  that  of  Crofts,  which 
rises  in  several  stages  to  a  round  grassy  plat,  280  feet  in 
diameter,  and  commands  a  beautiful  prospect.  Weapons 
and  urns,  supposed  to  be  Roman,  have  been  found  ;  and 
a  cau-n  at  Blackerne  yielded  in  1 756  a  silver  ring  and  an 
amber  bead,  now  in  the  Edinburgh  Antiquarian  iluseum. 
Mansions  are  Greenlaw,  Glenlochar  Lodge,  Danevale 
Park,  MoUance,  and  Ernespie  ;  and  10  proprietors  hold 
each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  17  of  be- 
tween £100  and  £500,  2  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  7  of 
from  £20  to  £50.  Crossmichael  is  in  the  presbji;ery  of 
Kirkcudbright  and  synod  of  Galloway ;  the  living  is 
worth  £339.  The  parish  church,  at  the  hamlet,  was 
built  in  1751,  and  contains  650  sittings  ;  in  the  grave- 
yard is  a  tombstone  to  '  William  Graham,  shot  dead  by 
a  party  of  Claverhouse's  troop,  for  his  adherence  to 
Scotland's  Reformation  Covenants,  1682.'  There  is  also 
a  U.P.  church,  near  Castle-Douglas;  and  two  public 
schools,  Crossmichael  and  Clarebrand,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  200  and  100  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  89  and  79,  and  grants  of  £96, 
Is.  6d.  and  £88.  7s.  6d.  Valuation  (1860)  £10,725, 
(1882)  £15,024,  '4s.  lOd.  Pop.  (1801)  1084,  (1831) 
1325,  (1861)  1536,  (1871)  1492,  (1881)  lZi3.—0rd. 
Sur.,  sh.  5,  1857. 

Crossmill.     See  Corsemill. 

Crossmyloof,  a  village  in  the  NW  comer  of  Cathcart 
parish,  Renfrewshire,  1  mile  NE  of  Pollokshaws,  and 
1^  SSW  of  Glasgow,  under  which  it  has  a  post  and 
telegraph  office.  At  it  are  a  public  school,  an  Established 
mission  station,  and  an  extensive  bakery,  started  in 
1847.  At  a  council  of  war  here,  according  to  a  popular 
myth,  Queen  Mary,  on  the  morning  of  the  battle  of 
Langside,  laid  a  small  crucifix  on  her  hand,  saying,  'As 
surely  as  that  cross  lies  on  my  loof,  I  will  this  day 
fight  the  Regent,'— hence  the  name  Orossmyloof.  Pop. 
(1841)  587,  (1861) 939,  (1871)  988,  (1881)  1195. 

Crosspol,  a  bay  in  the  S  of  Coll  island,  Argyllshire. 
It  measures  2  miles  across,  but  lies  exposed  to  tlie  S  and 

313 


CROSSRAGUEL 

the  SW,  and  is  profusely  studded  with  sunken  rocks. 
A  sandy  beach,  about  a  mile  long,  fringes  it  on  tlie  N, 
and  is  the  chief  feature  of  its  kind  in  Coll. 

Crossraguel,  a  ruined  Clngniac  abbey  in  Kirkoswald 
parish,  Ayrshire,  2  miles  SW  of  Maybole.  It  seems  to 
have  derived  its  name  (Lat.  CmxRcjaJis,  'king's  cross') 
from  a  cross  of  St  Oswald,  King  of  Xorthumbria  {oh. 
643),  but  itself  was  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  ]\Iary,  and 
was  founded  about  1240  by  Duncan,  first  Earl  of  Car- 
rick,  for  Clugniacs  of  Paisley,  from  which  it  was  made 
exempt  in  1244.  The  last  of  its  abbots,  Queutin 
Kennedy,  in  1562  held  a  famous  dispute  with  John 
Knox  at  ]\laybole  ;  he  died  in  1564,  when  a  pension  of 
£500  a  year'was  conferred  upon  George  Buchanan  out 
of  the  abbey's  revenues.  Their  bulk  was  granted  to 
AllanStewart,  who,  as  commendatorvisitingthebounds  of 
Crossraguel  in  1570,  was  pouncedon  by  Quentin'suephew, 
Gilbert,  fourth  Earl  of  Cassillis,  and  carried  olf  to  the  sea- 
castle  of  DuNTRE,  there,  in  the  Black  Vault,  to  be 
'  roasted  in  sop '  until  he  consented  to  subscribe  '  a  five- 
year  tack  and  a  nineteen-year  tack  and  a  charter  of  feu  of 
all  the  lands  of  Crossraguel,  with  all  the  clauses  necessar 
for  the  great  King  of  Carrick  to  haste  him  to  hell '  (Cham- 
bers's Dom.  Ann.,  i.  65-67).  To  the  Earl's  desire,  how- 
ever, to  turn  it  to  his  own  account  we  probably  owe  the 
partial  preservation  of  the  abbey.  Its  ruins.  Second 
Pointed  in  style,  comprise  some  portions  of  the  domestic 
buildings  on  the  S  side,  the  walls  of  the  church,  and 
the  square  chapter-house,  with  high  arched  roof  upborne 
by  a  clustered  pillar.  The  roofless  church  is  a  narrow 
aisleless  oblong,  measuring  internally  160  by  25  feet,  and 
divided  nearly  midway  by  a  gabled  wall,  containing  a 
doorway.  The  choir  ends  in  a  three-sided  ap.se,  and 
retains  an  aumbry,  sedilia,  and  an  altar  tomb.  See 
vol.  iL  of  Grose's  Antiquities  of  Scotland  (1791),  and 
vol.  i.  of  Billings'  Baronial  and  Ecclesiastical  Antiquities 
(1S45). 

Crossroads.     See  Grange,  Banffshire. 

Crossroads.     See  Dreguoex,  Ayrshire. 

Croulin  Isles,  a  group  of  islets  in  Applecross  parish, 
Ross-shire,  off  the  N  side  of  the  entrance  of  Loch  Carron. 
Croulinmore,  the  largest  of  them,  is  1  mile  long. 

Crovie,  a  fishing  village  in  Gamrie  parish,  NE  Banff- 
shire, on  the  E  side  of  Gamrie  Bay,  1  mile  NE  of  Gar- 
denstown.  Supposed  to  have  been  founded  early  in  the 
ISth  century,  it  stands  in  a  rocky  ravine,  which  is 
traversed  by  a  brook  ;  and  it  presents  the  gable  end  of 
its  houses  to  the  sea,  the  other  end  to  a  bank  of  the 
ravine.     Pop.  (1881)  258. 

Crowbutt,  a  hamlet  in  Chirnside  parish,  Berwickshire, 
1  mile  NE  of  Chirnside  village. 

Crowlista.     See  Uig. 

Croy,  a  station  in  the  W  of  Cumbernauld  parish, 
Dumbartonshire,  on  the  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  section 
of  the  North  British,  Ig  mile  SSE  of  Kilsyth,  and  11 J 
miles  NE  of  Glasgow. 

Croy,  a  hamlet  on  the  NE  border  of  Inverness-shire, 
and  a  parish  partly  also  in  Nairnshire.  The  hamlet  lies 
8  miles  SW  of  Nairn  and  3  S  of  Fort  George  station, 
which  is  lOi  miles  NE  of  Inverness,  and  under  which 
it  has  a  post  office. 

The  ])arish,  containing  also  Clephanton  village,  6^ 
miles  SW  of  Nairn,  comprises  the  ancient  parishes  of 
Croy  and  Dalcross,  united  in  the  latter  part  of  the  15th 
century.  Bounded  N  by  Nairn  parish,  E  by  Cawdor, 
S  by  Aloy  and  Daviot,  and  NW  by  Daviot  and  Petty, 
it  has  an  utmost  length,  from  NNE  to  SSW,  of  10^  miles ; 
a  varj-ing  width  of  1^  and  4§  jniles  ;  and  a  land  area  of 
22,779  acres.  This  last  includes  the  Leys  or  .south- 
western division,  which,  severed  from  the  main  body  by 
a  .strip  (5  furlongs  wide  at  the  narrowest)  of  Daviot,  is 
on  all  other  sides  surrounded  by  Inverness,  its  greatest 
length  and  breadth  being  6J  and  IJ  miles.  The  river 
Naiun  winds  122  miles  north-eastward  along  the  bor- 
ders and  through  the  interior  of  the  main  portion,  from 
just  below  Daviot  House  to  just  above  Kosi'lif  Id  ;  the 
Loch  of  the  Clans  (2  x  1  furl.)  lies  in  the  northern  ex- 
tremity, and  on  the  Petty  boundary  is  Loch  Flcmington 
(4A  X  If  furl.).  The  beautiful  strath  of  the  Nairn  here 
314 


CRUDEN 

sinks  from  400  to  100  feet  al)ove  sea-level ;  but  the  sur- 
face generally  is  flat  and  forbidding  in  aspect,  including 
the  wide  bleak  moors  of  Clava  and  Culloden,  and  only 
in  the  south-eastern  corner  rising  steeply  to  1000  feet 
on  Saddle  Hill,  1027  on  Creagan  Glas,  and  1787  on 
Beinn  Buidhe  JIhor.  The  rocks  are  variously  granite, 
gneiss.  Old  Red  sandstone,  unconsolidated  drift,  and 
liassic  limestone,  the  last  of  which  has  been  calcined  for 
economic  purposes.  The  soil  in  the  eastern  division  is 
of  all  descriptions,  so  interspersed  with  one  another  that 
scarcely  two  continuous  acres  can  be  found  of  the  same 
quality ;  that  of  the  western  is  also  various,  but  forms, 
on  the  whole,  a  fine  mixture  of  clay  black  land  and 
sandy  or  gravelly  materiah  Great  improvements  have 
been  effected  since  1845,  hundreds  of  acres  that  once 
were  barren  moor  having  either  been  planted  or  brought 
under  the  plough.  A  remarkable  ancient  Caledonian 
monument,  comprising  two  concentric  circles  of  large 
stones,  two  large  slabs  within  the  inner  circle,  and  a 
huge  upright  of  conglomerate  a  few  feet  W  of  the  outer, 
crowns  a  round  gravel  mound  on  the  NW  border  of  the 
parish  ;  and  remains  of  crannoges  or  ancient  lake-dwell- 
ings, formed  of  alternate  strata  of  stones,  earth,  and  oak, 
and  resting  on  oaken  piles  strongly  fixed  by  transverse 
beams,  were  discovered  at  the  draining  of  a  lake  in  the 
eastern  end  of  the  parish.  The  Stones  of  Clava  are 
separately  noticed,  as  likewise  are  the  battlefield  of 
Culloden,  the  ruins  of  Dalcross  Castle,  and  the  four 
mansions,  Cantray  House,  Holme  Rose,  Kilravock  Castle, 
and  Le3'S  Castle.  Seven  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  more,  and  five  of  less,  than  £500.  Croy  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Nairn  and  synod  of  Moray  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £384.  The  parish  church,  at  the  hamlet,  was 
built  in  1767,  and  contains  527  sittings  ;  a  Free  church 
stands  1  mile  to  the  SSW.  Two  schools,  Clava  and 
Croy,  with  respective  accommodation  for  100  and  150 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  32  and 
129,  and  grants  of  £36,  10s.  and  £129,  3s.  6d.  Valua- 
tion (1880)  £10,399,  19s.  2d.,  of  which  £3699,  Is.  6d. 
was  in  Nairnshire.  Pop.  (1801)  1601,  (1831)  1664, 
(1861)  1873,  (1871)  1841,  (1881)  1709.— Oni  Sur.,  sh. 
84,  1876. 

Cruach  or  Stob  na  Cruaich,  a  mountain  (2420  feet) 
on  the  NW  border  of  Perthshire,  culminating  If  mile 
NW  of  Loch  Laidon. 

Cruachan.    See  Ben  Gritachan. 

Cruachlussa  (Gaeh  'mountain  of  plants').  See 
Knapdale,  NonTii. 

Crucifield.     See  Unst. 

Cruden  {c7vju  or  crush  Dane,  according  to  the  popular 
etymology),  a  coast  parish  of  Buchan,  NE  Aberdeen- 
shire, with  a  post  office  of  its  own  name  at  Auchiries 
hamlet.  Si  miles  SSW  of  Peterhead,  and  9|  NE  of  its 
station  and  post-town,  Ellon,  with  which  it  communicates 
daily  by  coach.  It  is  bounded  NW  by  Longside,  NE 
by  Peterhead,  E  by  the  German  Ocean,  S  by  Slains  and 
Logie-Buchan,  SWand  W  by  Ellon.  Its  utmost  length, 
from  E  to  W,  is  7^  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  varies 
between  2J  and  6^  miles;  and  its  area  is  18,444J^  acres, 
of  which  164^  are  foreshore  and  14  water.  Except 
for  2  miles  of  sands  at  Cruden  Bay,  the  coast-line, 
7^  miles  long,  is  fringed  with  a  range  of  stupendous 
cliffs,  projecting  the  headlands  of  Hare  Craig,  Jlurdoch 
Head,  and  Wardhill,  and  indented  by  Long  Haven, 
Yoag's  Haven,  North  Plaven,  the  Bullers  of  Buchan, 
Robie's  Haven,  and  Twa  Havens,  whilst  off  them  lie 
Dunbuy  islet  ami  a  long  sunken  reef,  the  Scares  of 
Cruden.  The  clifls  to  the  S,  100  feet  high,  consist  of 
greenstone  or  basalt  ;  and  those  to  the  N,  at  j)oints 
attaining  200  feet,  of  reddish  granite,  with  trap-dykes 
on  the  l')lackhill.  Inland  the  general  surface  sinks  little 
below  100,  ami  little  exceeds  200,  feet  above  sea-level ; 
but  rises  to  281  at  the  Hill  of  Ardilfery,  354  at  the  Hill 
of  Auquharney,  447  at  the  Corse  of  Balloch,  346  at  Hill- 
side of  Aldie,  and  374  near  Newtown,  the  three  last  close 
to  the  Longside  border.  Cruden  Water,  rising  just 
within  Longside,  winds  11  miles  east-l>y-southward  to 
the  northern  corner  of  Cruden  Bay,  dividing  the  parish 
into  two  nearly  equal  parts,  and  receiving  the  burns  of 


CRUGGLETON 

Lacca  and  Gask  ;  its  current  has  been  utilised  to  drive 
a  wool-mill  at  Auquhaniey  and  several  meal-mills  lower 
down.  Great  quantities  of  peat-moss  lie  along  the 
northern  boundary  ;  and  forests  of  oak  and  other  hard- 
wood trees  anciently  occupied  much  of  the  area,  luit  now 
are  represented  only  by  a  few  old  trees,  dwarfed  by  the 
sea-breeze  that  has  stunted  the  clumps  and  plantations 
of  Slains  and  Auquhamey.  Granite  and  trap  are  the 
prevailing  rocks ;  and  the  former  has  been  quaiTied 
along  the  northern  cliffs,  under  great  disadvantages  of 
both' working  and  transport.  The  neighbouring  waters 
teem  with  fish  ;  and  at  a  cost  of  £3000  a  new  harbour 
has  recently  been  formed  at  the  village  of  Poet  Erroll, 
where  Cruden  Water  falls  into  the  bay  ;  it  consists  of 
an  outer  and  an  inner  basin,  the  latter  5400  square 
yards  in  area.  On  the  plain  skirting  Cruden  Bay 
Malcolm  II.  of  Scotland  is  said  to  have  defeated  Canute, 
afterwards  King  of  England,  in  1014  ;  but  the  battle  is 
one  of  those  which,  in  Dr  Hill  Burton's  words,  '  only 
find  a  local  habitation  and  a  name,  along  with  the 
usual  details,  from  late  and  questionable  authority.' 
A  mound,  evidently  artificial,  and  popularly  called  the 
Battery,  cro^\-ns  a  height  to  the  N  of  the  Hawklaw,  and 
to  the  SE  of  that  mound  are  remains  of  what  seems  to 
have  been  a  vitrified  wall.  Another  artificial  mound, 
the  Moathill,  a  seat  most  probably  of  feudal  justice,  and 
an  eminence,  called  Gallowhill,  where  criminals  were 
executed,  are  on  Ardiffery  farm ;  whilst  Highlaw,  1  mile 
from  the  coast,  is  cro^vned  by  a  tumulus,  said  to  have 
been  used  for  beacon  fires,  and  commanding  a  fine  view 
over  the  low  surrounding  country,  away  to  the  Gram- 
pians. A  'Druidical  circle,'  J  mUe  W  of  the  parish 
church,  was  demolished  in  1831 ;  a  necklace  of  jet  and 
amber,  three  stone  cists,  flint  implements,  a  rude  old 
granite  font,  and  other  relics  of  antiquity,  have  been 
from  time  to  time  discovered  ;  and  the  Bishop's  Bridge 
over  Cruden  "Water,  near  the  church,  was  built  in 
1697  by  the  Right  Rev.  Dr  Jas.  Drummond  of  Brechin, 
and  widened  by  the  Earl  of  Erroll  in  1763.  Slaixs 
Castle,  however,  is  the  chief  artificial  feature  in  the 
parish,  where  8  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value 
of  £500  and  upwards,  4  of  between  £100  and  £500,  and 
3  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Giving  off  portions  to  Ardallie, 
Blackhill,  and  Boddam  qiwad  sacra  parishes,  Cruden  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Ellon  and  sjmod  of  Aberdeen ;  the 
living  is  worth  £800.  The  parish  church,  on  the  right 
bank  of  Cruden  Water,  1  mile  SSW  of  Auchiries,  was 
built  in  1776,  and  enlarged  in  1834,  when  two  round 
towers  were  added ;  it  contains  820  sittings,  and  has 
a  church-hall  beside  it.  At  Hatton,  If  mile  WXW, 
stands  the  Free  church  (1844)  ;  and  |  mile  SSW  is  St 
James's  Episcopal  church  (1843  ;  440  sittings),  which. 
Early  English  in  style,  has  a  nave  and  chancel,  a  spire 
90  feet  high,  an  organ,  and  three  stained-glass  windows. 
Of  St  Olave's  or  Glaus'  chapel,  near  the  New  Bridge, 
said  to  have  been  founded  by  Canute,  the  last  remains 
were  carried  away  for  road-metal  in  1837.  Errol  Epis- 
copal school  and  the  public  schools  of  Auchiries,  Bog- 
brae,  Coldwells,  and  Hatton,  with  respective  accommo- 
dation for  140,  102,  68,  90,  and  150  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  87,  78,  72,  100,  and  108,  and 
grants  of  £50,  13s.,  £61,  18s.,  £54,  £72,  16s.,  and 
£92,  3s.  Valuation  (1843)  £8792,  (1881)  £16,072,  13s. 
6d.  Pop.  (1801)  1934,  (1831)  2120,  (1861)  2743,  (1871) 
3124,  (1831)  ?AU.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  87,  1876. 

Cruggleton,  an  ancient  coast  parish  of  SE  Wigtown- 
shire, united  in  the  middle  of  the  17th  century  to  Kirk- 
madrine  and  Sorbie,  and  now  forming  the  south-eastern 
section  of  the  present  Sorbie.  Its  ruined  Norman  church, 
3  miles  S  of  Garliesto\vn,  belonged  to  Whithorn  priory, 
and,  consisting  of  nave  and  chancel,  measures  67^  by  30 
feet.  Cruggleton  Castle,  3  furlongs  to  the  E,  stoocl  on 
a  bold  rocky  headland,  over  100  feet  high,  mid-way 
between  Rigg  or  Cruggleton  Bay  and  Port  Allan.  Sup- 
posed to  have  been  built  by  Nor.semen,  it  was  long 
the  seat  of  the  Irish  M'Kerlies;  is  .said  to  have  been 
captured  by  both  Edward  I.  and  Wallace  ;  and  after 
passing  through  many  hands,  came  eventually  to  the 
Agnews.     It  is  now  represented  by  only  an  arch,  the 


CUILLIE 

foundations   of  some   walls,   and  distinct  traces  of  a 
fosse. 

Cruicksfield,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  the  S  of 
Bunkle  parish,  Berwickshire,  4  miles  NE  of  Dunse. 

Cruick  Water,  a  sti-eara  of  NE  Forfarshire,  rising  at 
the  northern  extremity  of  Fearn  parish,  and  running 
15|  miles  south-south-eastward  and  east-north-eastward 
through  Fearn,  Menmuir,  and  Stracathro,  till  it  falls 
into  the  North  Esk,  5  furlongs  E  of  Stracathro  church. 
A  capital  trouting  stream,  but  possessed  of  little  beauty, 
it  descends  from  1480  to  118  feet  above  sea-level,  and 
becomes  after  heavy  rains  a  voluminous  and  furious 
toiTent,  though  dwindling  to  a  mere  rill  in  time  of 
drought.— Oat;.  Sur.,  sh.  57,  1868. 

Cruikston.     See  Crookston. 

Cruin.     See  Ixchcruin. 

Cruister,  a  hamlet  near  Sandwick,  in  Dunrossness 
parish,  Shetland. 

Cruivie,  a  ruined  square  tower  on  the  lands  of  Straiton, 
in  Logic  parish,  NE  Fife,  2|  miles  NNE  of  Logie 
church. 

Crummag  Head,    See  Cramjiag. 

Crutherland,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Glasford 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  Calder  Water, 
2f  miles  SE  of  East  Kilbride. 

Cryston.     See  Chrtstox. 

Cuan,  a  narrow  sound  separating  Luing  island  from 
Seil  island,  in  KUbrandon  and  KUchattan  parish,  Argyll- 
shire. It  has  a  very  strong  current,  running  at  the  rate 
of  7  or  8  miles  an  hour ;  and,  in  consequence  of  the 
church  standing  near  it,  gives  name  popularly  to  the 
parish. 

CuchuUins  or  Coolins,  a  group  of  savagely  picturesque 
mountains  in  Bracadale  and  Strath  parishes,  Isle  of 
Skye,  Inverness-shire.  Rising  from  the  sea-shore  to  the 
E  of  Loch  Brittle  and  N  of  Loch  Scavaig,  and  extending 
north-eastward  to  Glen  Sligachan,  eastward  to  the  valley 
of  Strath,  they  occupy  an  area  of  about  35  square  miles, 
and  are  a  confused  assemblage  of  barren  heights,  from 
2000  to  3000  feet  high,  distinguishable,  by  striking 
differences  in  outline,  feature,  and  colouring,  into  two 
great  sections.  The  southern  and  larger  of  these  con- 
sists of  smooth,  conoidal  masses,  that  rise  from  a 
labyrinth  of  low  ground — each  separate  from  its  fellow, 
nearly  all  streaked  from  summit  to  base  with  broad 
reddish  sheets  of  dihris,  and  many  of  them  abrupt, 
acclivitous,  and  rounded  like  vast  bare  cones.  The 
northern  section,  on  the  other  hand,  consists  of  singularly 
rugged  and  sen-ated  ranges  and  masses  of  mountains, 
intersected  by  wild  ravines,  and  shooting  up  in  sharp 
and  jagged  peaks.  It  is  mainly  formed  of  hypersthene, 
whose  dark  metallic  aspect  is  relieved  by  scarce  one 
blade  of  vegetation  ;  and,  strongly  attracting  rain-clouds 
from  the  ocean,  it  often  is  lashed  with  storms.  Always, 
even  amid  the  blaze  of  summer  sunshine,  a  region  of 
desolation,  without  any  play  of  colours,  it  looks  under  a 
■WT-eathiug  of  clouds  to  be  little  else  than  an  assemblage 
of  deep  and  horrible  abysses,  which  the  eye  vainly  en- 
deavours to  penetrate ;  dark  Loch  Coruisk  lies  in  its 
very  core.  The  loftiest  peak  is  Scuir-na-Gillean  (3183 
feet),  4i  mUes  S  of  Sligachan  inn  ;  and  six  other  summits 
are  estimated  to  exceed  3000  feet  above  sea-leveh  See 
chaps.  V.  and  vi.  of  Alexander  Smith's  Summer  in  Skye 
(1865). 

Cuckold-Le-Roi.     See  Cocklerue. 
Cuen  or  Loch  nan  Cuinne.     See  Baden. 
Cuff  Hill.     See  Beith,  Ayrshire. 
Cuil,  a  bay  in  Appin,  Argyllshire,  opening  fi-om  Loch 
Linnhe,  4.^  miles  NE  of  Shuna  island.     With  a  semi- 
circular outline,  on  a  chord  of  1;^  mile,  it  is  engirt  with 
a  fine  sandy  beach,  receives  the  river  Duror,  and  is 
often  frequented  by  large  shoals  of  herrings.— Ore?.  Sur., 
sh.  53,  1877. 

Cuilhill,  a  village  in  Old  Jlonkland  parish,  Lanark- 
shire, 2  miles  AV  of  Coatbridge. 

Cuillie  or  Culaidh,  a  loch  in  the  upper  part  of  Kildonan 
parish,  Sutherland,  2i  miles  SSW  of  Forsinard  station. 
Rudely  triangular  in  shape,  it  has  an  utmost  length  of 
3  and  2  furlongs,  and  teems  with  trout. 

315 


CUILTRANNICH 

Cuiltrannich,  a  hamlet  in  Kenmore  parish,  Perth- 
shire, luar  the  north-western  shore  of  Loch  Tay,  9  miles 
NE  of  Killin. 

Cuilunum  Moss,  a  hamlet  in  Port  of  Monteith  parish, 
S\V  Perthshire,  1|  mile  WNW  of  Port  of  Monteith 
station. 

Culag,  a  rivulet  of  Assynt  parish,  SW  Sutherland, 
issuing  from  a  lochlet  2  miles  SE  of  the  summit  of 
Canisp,  and  thence  running  8  miles  west-north-westward 
to  the  head  of  Loch  Inver,  at  Culag  Hotel  It  expands 
in  its  course  into  a  series  of  eight  or  nine  small  lakes, 
which  teem  with  trout,  and  in  which,  too,  sea-trout  and 
grilse  are  sometimes  taken. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  107,  1881. 

Culbin,  a  sandy  desert  on  the  southern  coast  of  the 
Moray  Firth,  extending  across  the  entire  breadth  of 
Dyke  and  Moy  parish,  Elginshire,  into  Kinloss  parish, 
Elginshire,  and  Auldearn  parish,  Nairnshire.  Compris- 
ing some  9500  acres  of  what  was  once  the  very  garden 
of  Jloray,  it  began  to  be  overwhelmed  with  sand  as  far 
back  as  1100,  according  to  Boece  ;  but  the  barony  itself 
of  Culbin  was  not  destroyed  till  1670-95,  '  the  which 
was  mainly  occasioned  by  the  pulling  up  by  the  roots  of 
bent,  juniper,  and  broom  bushes,  which  did  loose  and 
break  the  surface  and  scroof  of  the  sand-hills.'  Now  all 
is  covered  with  sand  or  sand-hills,  to  a  depth  in  places 
of  100  feet.  The  worst  jiarts  lie  immediately  west  of 
the  lagoon  and  mouth  of  the  Findhorn  river,  and  these 
underwent  so  great  a  change  as  to  shift  the  river's  mouth 
nearly  2  miles  eastward,  and  to  overwhelm  the  ancient 
town  and  harbour  of  Findhorn. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  84,  94, 
1876-78.  See  vol.  iii.,  pp.  119,  120,  of  Chambers's 
Domestic  Annals  of  Scotland  (1861). 

Culblean,  a  hill  range  in  tlie  E  of  the  Tullich  section 
of  Glenmuick  parish,  SW  Aberdeenshire,  4  miles  NE 
of  Ballater.  Extending  about  5  miles  south-by-eastward 
from  Morven  Hill  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Dee,  it  has  an 
altitude  of  1750  feet  above  sea-level,  and  at  its  southern 
end  contains  the  curious  natural  excavation  called  the 
Vat.  Here,  on  30  Nov.  1335,  the  Scottish  regent,  Andrew 
Murray  of  Bothwell,  defeated  David,  thirteenth  Earl 
of  Athole,  who,  setting  his  back  to  a  rock,  said  it  should 
flee  as  soon  as  he,  and  so  fell,  with  many  of  his  3000 
followers. 

Culbockie,  a  village  in  Urquhart  and  Logie-Wester 
parish,  Koss-shire,  9  miles  ENE  of  Dingwall,  under 
which  it  has  a  post  office.  At  it  stands  a  public  school ; 
and  fairs  are  held  here  on  the  fourth  Wednesday  of 
April,  the  first  Wednesday  of  July,  the  last  Wednesday 
of  October,  and  the  second  Wednesday  of  December. 

Culbumie.    See  Kiltarlity. 

Culchary,     See  Cawdor. 

Culcreuch,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Fin  try  parish, 
Stirlingshire.  The  mansion,  standing  1^  mile  NNW 
of  Fintry  village  and  5  miles  E  by  S  of  Balfron,  is  a  fine 
edifice,  with  beautiful  grounds.  Its  present  owner  is 
Sir  Geo.  Home-Speirs,  tenth  Bart,  since  1671  (b.  1832  ; 
sue.  1849),  who  in  1858  married  the  niece  and  heiress  of 
the  late  Alex.  G.  Speirs,  Esq.  of  Culcreuch,  and  who 
holds  7172  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2098  per 
annum.  A  large  cotton  factory,  5  furlongs  SW  of  the 
mansion,  near  Newtown  village,  was  erected  by  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  estate  about  1796. 

Culdees  Castle,  a  mansion  in  Muthill  parish,  Pertli- 
shire,  standing  on  a  commanding  site,  amid  a  fine  })ark 
near  the  left  bank  of  Machany  Water,  ^  mile  WSW  of 
Muthill  station,  and  4J  miles  SSE  of  Crieff.  Its  owner, 
Rt.  Thos.  Napier  Speir  of  Burnbrae,  holds  1619  acres 
in  I'ertlishire,  valued  at  £1972  per  annum. 

Culduthel,  a  hamlet,  with  a  public  school,  in  the 
parisli  of  Inverness,  3  miles  S  by  E  of  Inverness  town, 
under  which  it  has  a  post  oHice. 

Culhom  House,  a  seat  of  tlie  Earl  of  Stair  in  Stranraer 
parish,  Wigtowiisliire,  1^  mile  SE  of  Stranraer  town. 
Jiuilt  for  a  barracks,  it  is  a  large  clumsy  brick  edifice, 
but  stands  amid  iinely-wooded  policies. 

Culkein.     See  Assynt. 

Cullalo  Hills.  See  Aberdoue  and  Aucutertool, 
Fife. 

Cullean.     See  Colzean. 
.316 


CULLEN 

CuUen,  a  coast  town  and  parish  of  Banffshire.     A 
seaport  and  royal  and  parliamentary  burgh,  tlie  town  is 
situated  on  Cullen  Bay,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Burn  of 
Deskford,   5|  miles  W  by  N  of  Portsoy  station,  with 
which  it  communicates  thrice  a  day  by  omnibus,  and 
which  is  21  miles  NNW  of  Tillynaught  Junction,  8f  W 
by  N  of  Banft',  18  NNE  of  Grange  Junction,  and  61| 
NW  of  Aberdeen.     Its  mean-looking  Old  Town,  stand- 
ing a  little  inland,   about  the   year  1822  was  utterly 
demolished,  to  make  way  for  improvements  at  Cullen 
House  ;  a  somewhat  ancient  part,  called  Fishertown  or 
Seatown,  on  the  shore,  has  a  very  irregular  appearance, 
and  is   inhabited  chiefly  by  fisher-folk.      Close  to  the 
eastern   extremity   of   Seatown,    but   on   much   higher 
ground,  is  the  New  Town,  which,  built  in  1822  and 
subsequent  years  in  lieu  of  the  demolished  Old  To^vn, 
presents  a  regular  and  pleasant  aspect,  with  its  open 
market-place   and  its   three  streets,   respectively   300, 
400,  and  550  yards  long,  and  which  at  first  was  planned 
to  be  fully  double  its  existing  size.     It  enjoys  the  most 
charming  environs,  in  the  sweep  of  its  crescent  bay,  in 
the  rocky  grandeur  of  the  neighbouring  coast,  and  in  the 
lawns  and  woods  of  Cullen  House,  away  to  the  conical 
Bin  Hill  of  Cullen  (1050  feet),  2|  miles  to  the  SW. 
At  the  town  itself  are  a  post  office,  under  Fochabers, 
with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, branches  of  the  Union  and  North  of  Scotland 
Banks,  6  insurance  agencies,  gas-works,  a  public  library, 
a  news-room,  and  3  hotels,  to  one  of  which,  built  in 
1829,  a  town-hall  is  conjoined,  with  council,  court,  and 
ball  rooms.     The  cruciform  parish  church,  St  Slary's, 
5  furlongs  SSW  of  the  town,  was  founded  by  King 
Robert  I.,  and  made  collegiate  in  1543  for  a  provost,  6 
prebendaries,   and   2   singing   boys,    by  Sir  Alexander 
Ogilvie  of  Deskford,  whose  recumbent  effigy  surmounts 
a  large  and  richly-ornamented  tomb  in  a  mural  recess  ; 
as  enlarged   by  an  aisle   about   1798,   it  contains  800 
sittings.     Other  places  of  worship  are  Seafield  chapel  of 
ease  (1839 ;  450  sittings),  a  Free  church,  and  an  Inde- 
pendent chapel ;  whilst  a  public  school,  with  accommo- 
dation for  300  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance 
of  348,  and  a  gi-ant  of  £329,  4s.     In  the  cemetery  is  a 
grey  granite  obelisk,  14  feet  high,  erected  in  1876  to  the 
memory  of  Provost  Smith.     The  Castlehill,  an  eminence 
overhanging  the  sea,  is  cro^vned  by  remains  of  an  ancient 
fort,  whence  vitrified  stones  have  been  extracted  ;  but 
whether  this  is  the  royal  castle  where  died  Elizabeth, 
the  Bruce's  queen,  or  whether  it  stood  nearer  Cullen 
House,  is  doubtful.     The  eminent  physician,  Sir  James 
Clark,  Bart.  (1788-1870),  was  a  native  of  Cullen.     Its 
harbour  was  formed  in  1817,  and  enlarged  in  1834,  by 
tlie  Earl  of  Seafield,  at  a  cost  of  more  than  £10,000. 
With  a  depth  at 
the  pier-head  of  8^ 
feet  at  neap,  and 
of    12    at    .'ipring 
tides,  it  is  one  of 
the   best  artificial 
havens      in       the 
Moray  Firth.    The 
chief  imports  are 
coals,     salt,     and 
staves ;     and    ex- 
ports are  herrings, 
dried    fish,     oats, 
potatoes,  and  tim- 
ber.   The  catching 
and  curing  of  fish 
is  the   staple   in- 
dustry ;  and  there 
are    also    a    boat- 
building yard,  a  rope  and  sail  works,  a  woollen  factory,  and 
a  brewerv.     Fairs  for  cattle  and  horses  are  held  on  the 
third  Friday  of  May  and  the  first  Friday  of  November. 
Dating  its  burgh  privileges  from  the  reign  of  William 
the  Lyon  (1105-1214),  Cullen  is  governed  by  a  provost. 
2  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  a  billet  master, 
and  6  other  councillors  ;   with  Elgin,  Banff,  Macduff, 
Peterhead,  Kintore,  and  Inverurie,  it  returns  a  member 


Seal  of  Cullen. 


CULLENOCH 


CULLODEN 


to  parliament.  Its  parliamentary  and  municipal  con- 
stituency numbered  322  in  1882,  when  the  burgh 
valuation  amounted  to  £3615,  whilst  the  corporation 
revenue  was  £67.  Pop.  (1841)  142-3,  (1851)  1697,  (1861) 
1821,  (1871)  2056,  (1881)  2033. 

The  parish  of  Cullen,  triancfular  in  shape,  is  bounded 
N  by  the  Moray  Firth,  E  "by  Fordyce,  and  SW  by 
Rathven.  Its  utmost  lengtli,  "from  N  to  S,  is  If  mile  ; 
its  utmost  width,  from  E  to  W,  is  1^  mile  ;  and  its 
area  is  925  acres,  of  which  38|  are  foreshore,  and 
15  water.  The  coast-line,  IJ  mile  long,  presents  a 
bold  rocky  front  to  the  Bay  of  Cullen,  which  is  2| 
miles  wide  across  a  chord  drawn  from  Scar  Nose  to 
Logic  Head,  and  which  from  that  chord  measures  7 
furlongs  to  its  innermost  recess.  Three  singular  masses 
of  rock  here  have  been  named  the  Three  Kings  of  Cullen, 
most  likely  after  the  Magi,  or  Three  Kings  of  Cologne — 
Caspar,  Melchior,  and  Balthazar — whose  skulls  are  sho\vn 
in  the  cathedral  there.  The  deep-channelled  Burn  of 
Deskford,  other'wise  known  as  Cullen  AVater  (Gael,  cul-an, 
'  back-lying  water'),  flows  2^  miles  north-north-westward 
along  all  the  Rathven  border ;  and  the  surface  attains 
143  feet  above  sea-level  at  the  cemetery,  and  211  towards 
the  centre.  A  bed  of  stratified  quartz,  reposing  conform- 
ably on  a  thick  stratum  of  compact  greywacke,  underlies 
all  the  parish  ;  Old  Red  sandstone  forms  two  of  the  Three 
Kings,  ^  mile  W  of  which  are  two  patches  of  New 
Red  sandstone,  on  disrupted  greywacke  and  beneath 
beds  of  drift ;  and  in  the  S  is  fine  lias  clay,  well 
marked  by  lias  fossils.  The  soil  near  the  shore  is 
a  mixture  of  sand  and  gravel,  and  elsewhere  ranges  from 
strong  clay  or  light  loam  to  a  fine  rich  loam  incumbent 
on  a  soft  clay  bottom.  Cullen  House,  near  the  parish 
church,  is  a  huge  pile  erected  at  various  periods ;  the 
whole,  as  remodelled  and  enlarged  in  1861  by  the  late 
Mr  David  Bryce,  is  a  noble  specimen  of  Scottish  Baronial 
architecture.  It  crowns  a  steep  rock  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Buru  of  Deskford,  across  which  a  one-arch  bridge 
of  82  feet  span  leads  to  the  grounds  and  park,  which, 
beautiful  with  streams  and  lakelets,  trim  lawns  and 
stately  groves,  extend  far  into  Rathven  parish,  and 
among  whose  adornments  is  a  graceful  temple,  com- 
manding a  splendid  view  over  the  neighbouring  sea. 
The  house  itself  is  rich  in  works  of  art ;  and  its  charter- 
room  contains  a  valuable  series  of  documents,  extending 
back  three  centuries  from  1705.  Sir  Walter  Ogilvie, 
Knight,  of  Auchleven,  younger  brother  of  that  Sir  John 
Ogilvie  who  received  a  grant  of  the  castle  of  Airlie, 
towards  the  middle  of  the  15th  century  married  Mar- 
garet, sole  daughter  and  heiress  of  Sir  John  Sinclair  of 
Deskford  and  Findlater,  and  thereby  acquired  the  said 
estates.  His  seventh  descendant  was  in  1638  created 
Earl  of  Findlater.  That  title  expired  with  James, 
seventh  Earl,  in  1811  ;  and  Cullen  now  is  held  by  Ian 
Charles  Grant-Ogilvie,  eighth  Earl  of  Seafield  since  1701 
(b.  1851 ;  sue.  1881),  who  owns  48,946  acres  in  Banffshire, 
valued  at£34, 260  per  annum.  (See  also  Castle-Grant.) 
Three  lesser  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of 
from  £50  to  £100,  and  23  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Cullen 
is  in  the  presb3'tery  of  Fordyce  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £226.  Valuation,  exclusive  of  burgh 
(1882),  £1217,  4s.  lOd.  Pop.  of  entire  parish  (1801) 
1076,  (1831)1593,(1861)1975,(1871)2215,  (1881)2187. 
Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  96,  1876. 

CuUenoch,  the  ancient  name  of  Laurieston,  a  village 
in  Balmaghie  parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  6  miles  WNW 
of  Castle-Douglas.  It  was  the  meeting-place  of  the 
Kirkcudbrightshire  war  committee  of  the  Covenanters, 
constituted  in  1640. 

Cullen  of  Buchan.     See  Gamrie. 

Cullen  Park,  a  mansion  in  Avondale  parish,  Lanark- 
shire, close  to  Strathaven. 

Cullen  Water.     See  Deskford,  Burn  of. 

Cullerley.     See  Echt. 

Cullicudden,  a  hamlet  and  an  ancient  parish  in  Reso- 
lis  parish,  Ross-shire.  The  hamlet  lies  on  the  SE  shore 
of  Cromarty  Firth,  4|  miles  WSW  of  Invergordon,  and 
25^  N  of  Inverness  ;  at  it  are  a  public  school  and  a  post 
office,  with  money  order  and  savings'  bank  departments. 


The  parish,  united  to  Kirkmichael  subsequent  to  1688, 
now  forms  the  western  district  of  Resolis.  A  fragment 
of  its  church  is  still  standing.  A  quarry  of  sandstone 
suited  for  many  kinds  of  public  buildings,  and  varying 
in  colour  from  red  to  deep  yellow,  has  long  been  worked 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  hamlet. 

CuUin.     See  CrcHVLLiN. 

CuUisaid  or  Cuil  na  Sith,  a  loch  in  the  SE  of  Tongue 
parish,  Sutherland.  Lying  390  feet  above  sea-level,  it 
measures  Ih  furlongs  by  1,  and  sends  ofl'  a  stream  1§ 
mile  east-north-eastward  to  the  head  of  Loch  Loyal. 

CuUivoe,  a  hamlet  and  a  bay  in  North  Yell  parish, 
Shetland,  40  miles  N  of  Lerwick,  under  wliich  the 
hamlet  has  a  post  and  telegraph  ofiice. 

Culloden  (Gael,  cul-oitir,  '  back-hnng  coast-ridge '), 
an  estate  and  a  battlefield  on  the  NE  verge  of  Inverness- 
shire,  in  the  parishes  of  Inverness,  Croy,  Daviot-Dun- 
lichity,  and  Petty.  Culloden  House  stands  1;^  mile  SE 
by  S  of  Culloden  station  on  the  Highland  railway,  this 
being  close  to  the  Firth  of  Beauly  and  3|  miles  ENE  of 
Inverness.  Backed  by  plantations,  it  commands  a  magni- 
ficent view,  and  '  has  been  renewed  in  an  elegant  style ' 
since  1746,  when  our  engraving  shows  it  to  have  been  a 
plain  four-storied  edifice,  with  battlemented  front  and 
central  bell-turret.  "Within  it  hang  portraits  of  'Grey' 
Duncan  Forbes  (1572-1654),  M.P.  and  provost  of  Inver- 
ness, who  bought  the  estate  from  the  laird  of  M'Intosh 
in  1626  ;  of  his  great-grandson  and  namesake,  the  cele- 
brated Lord  President  of  the  Court  of  Session(1685-1747) ; 
and  of  many  others  of  the  line — 'a  cluster,'  Hill  Burton 
observes,  '  of  open,  handsome,  and  ingenuous  counte- 
nances.' The  present  and  tenth  laird,  also  a  Duncan 
Forbes  (b.  1851  ;  sue.  1879),  holds  5655  acres,  valued 
at  £4553  per  annum. 

About  If  mile  ESE  of  the  mansion  is  the  battlefield, 
Ctilloden  or  Druramossie  Muir,  a  broad,  flat,  sandstone 
ridge  that  from  500  feet  above  sea-level  sinks  gently  to 
300  feet  along  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Nairn,  across 
which  rise  the  steeper  heights  of  Croy  and  Dalcross 
parish— Saddle  Hill  (1000  feet),  Creagan  Glas  (1027), 
and  Beinn  Bhuidlie  ]\Ihor  (1797).  Planting  and  culture 
have  somewhat  changed  its  aspect,  so  that  now  it  is  but 
an  opening  in  a  wooa, — an  opening  the  size  of  a  park  of 
6  or  8  acres, — traversed  by  a  carriage  road  from  Inver- 
ness to  Nairn,  and  studded  with  grassy  mounds  that 
mark  the  graves  of  the  slain.  In  the  summer  of  1881 
these  graves  were  cared  for  by  the  present  proprietor, 
one  stone  being  inscribed  ■with  the  names  of  the  clans 
M'Gillivray,  M'Lean,  and  M'Lauchlan,  whilst  there  are 
separate  stones  for  Clan  Stewart  of  Appin,  Clan  Cameron, 
and  Clan  M'Intosh,  and  two  graves  are  marked  'Clans 
mixed. '  Then  on  a  new  '  Great  Cairn, '  CO  feet  in  height, 
a  slab  has  been  placed,  s-ith  this  legend  : — 'The  Battle 
of  Culloden  was  fought  on  this  moor,  16th  April  174f>. 
The  graves  of  the  gallant  Highlanders  who  fought  for 
Scotland  and  Prince  Charlie  are  marked  by  the  names 
of  their  clans.' 

The  invasion  of  England  over  and  the  battle  of  Fal- 
kirk won,  the  Highland  army,  from  besieging  Stirling 
Castle,  retired  to  Inverness,  where,  on  12  April  1746, 
news  reached  them,  scattered  and  disorganised,  that  the 
Duke  of  Cumberland  had  marched  from  Aberdeen. 
Fording  the  deep  am!  rapid  Spey,  he  on  the  14th  entered 
Nairn,  where  the  Prince's  outposts  halted  till  he  was 
within  a  mile  of  the  town,  beginning  their  retreat  in 
.sight  of  the  British  army.  Next  day,  the  Duke's  birth- 
day, the  royal  camp  was  a  scene  of  festivity,  provisions 
being  plentifully  supplied  by  a  fleet  of  storesliips  that 
had  followed  along  the  coast ;  but  the  Prince,  enjoying 
no  such  advantage,  found  himself  forced  to  hasten  the 
issue  of  the  contest  by  a  third  appeal  to  arms.  It  was 
therefore  resolved  in  a  council  of  war  to  attack  the 
enemy's  camp  in  the  night,  and  thus  to  compensate,  so 
far  as  might  be,  for  inferiority  of  numbers,  and  yet  more 
for  the  want  of  cavalry  and  cannon.  But  as  a  surprise, 
to  be  successful,  must  be  ellected  with  speed  and  concert, 
it  is  manifest  that  prompt  obedience  and  accurate  calcu- 
lation are  indispensable.  The  Highlanders  did  not  finish 
their  preparations  till  the  evening  was  far  advanced, 

317 


CULLODEN 

and,  the  night  being  very  dark,  they  could  not  com- 
plete their  march  until  it  was  too  late  to  hazard  an 
onset  with  any  prospect  of  advantage.  Orders  were 
therefore  given  for  a  retreat,  and  the  wearied  clansmen, 
retracing  their  steps  under  a  load  of  melancholy  and 
suspicion,  resumed  their  original  gi-ound  on  Culloden 
Muir.  In  the  opinion  of  the  wisest  among  Charles's 
officei-s,  his  arm}',  after  a  march  at  once  so  harassing 
and  discouraging,  should  have  taken  up  a  position  be- 
yond the  liver  Nairn,  where  the  bank  was  high  and 
inaccessible  to  cavalry.  But  to  such  reasonable  pro- 
posals he  turned  a  deaf  ear,  being  moved  by  a  romantic 
notion  that  it  was  unworthy  of  him  to  retire  in  the 
presence  of  an  enemy,  or  even  to  avail  himself  of  any 
sujieriority  that  might  be  attained  by  the  judicious 
choice  of  a  field  of  battle.  He  would  rather  await  the 
onset  of  the  Duke  of  Cumberland,  who,  profiting  by  the 
experience  of  Cope  and  Hawley,  made  his  dispositions 
with  much  more  skill  and  foresight  than  had  been 
shown  at  Frestonpaus  or  Falkii'k. 

Before  commencing  the  march,  written  instructions, 
which  had  been  communicated  to  the  commanders  of 
the  difl'erent  regiments,  were  read  at  the  head  of  every 
company  in  the  line.  They  ran,  that  if  those  to  whom 
the  charge  of  the  train  or  baggage  horses  was  entrusted 
should  abscond  or  leave  them,  they  should  be  punished 
with  instant  death  ;  and  that  if  any  officer  or  soldier 
misconducted  himself  during  the  action,  he  should  be 
sentenced.  The  infantry  marched  in  three  parallel 
divisions  or  columns,  of  five  regiments  each,  headed  by 
General  Huske  on  the  left,  Lord  Sempill  on  the  right, 
and  General  Mordaunt  in  the  centre.  The  artillery  and 
baggage  followed  the  first  column  on  the  right ;  and  the 
dragoons  and  horse,  led  by  Generals  Hawley  and  Bland, 
were  on  the  left,  forming  a  fourth  column.  Forty  of 
Kingston's  horse  and  Argyllshire  men  led  the  van. 

The  charge  of  ranging  the  Highland  army  in  line  of 
battle  on  this  important  occasion  was  entrusted  to 
O'Sullivan,  who  acted  in  the  double  capacity  of  adjutant 
and  quartermaster-general.  This  officer,  in  the  oiiinion 
of  Lord  George  ^lurray,  a  high  authority  certainly,  was 
utterly  unfit  for  such  a  task,  and  committed  gross  blun- 
ders on  every  occasion  of  moment.  In  the  present 
instance,  he  did  not  even  visit  the  ground  where  the 
army  was  to  be  drawn  up,  and  committed  a  '  fatal  error  ' 
in  omitting  to  throw  down  some  park  walls  on  the 
left  of  the  English  army,  which  being  afterwards  taken 
possession  of  by  the  Duke  of  Cumberland,  it  was  found 
impossible  to  break  the  English  lines  from  the  destruc- 
tive flank-fire  opened  therefrom  on  the  right  of  the 
Highland  army,  as  it  advanced  to  the  attack.  While 
the  Duke  of  Cumberland  was  forming  his  line  of  battle, 
Lord  George  Murray  was  very  desirous  to  advance  and 
demolish  these  walls ;  but  as  sucli  a  movement  would 
have  broken  the  line,  the  officers  about  him  considered 
that  the  attempt  would  be  dangerous,  and  he  therefore 
did  not  make  it. 

The  Highland  army  was  drawn  up  in  three  lines. 
The  first,  or  front  line,  consisted  of  the  Athole  brigade, 
which  had  tlie  right,  the  Camerons,  Stewarts  of  Appin, 
Frasers,  M'Intoshes,  il'Lauchlans,  M'Leans,  John  Roy 
Stewart's  regiment,  and  Farquharsons,  united  into  one 
regiment ;  the  M'Leods,  Chisholms,  M'Donalds  of  Clan- 
ranald,  Keppoch,  anil  Glengarry.  The  three  M 'Donald 
regiments  formed  tlie  left.  Lord  George  ^Murray  com- 
manded on  the  right.  Lord  John  Druiiimond  in  tlie 
centre,  and  the  Duke  of  Perth  on  the  left,  of  the  first 
line.  There  had  been,  a  day  or  two  before,  a  violent 
(■ontention  among  the  chiefs  about  precedency  of  rank. 
The  M'Donalds  claimed  tlie  riglit  as  their  due,  in  sup- 
l)ort  of  wliich  claim  they  stated,  that  as  a  reward  for  the 
fidelity  of  Angus  J^I  'Donald,  Lord  of  tlie  Isles,  in  pro- 
tecting Robert  the  Bruce  for  upwards  of  nine  months  in 
Ids  dominions,  that  prince,  at  the  battle  of  Bannock- 
Iturn,  conferred  the  post  of  lionour,  tlie  riglit,  on  the 
•M'Donalds, — that  this  ])Ost  had  ever  since  been  held 
by  them,  unless  wlien  yielded  from  courtesy,  as  to  the 
chief  of  tlio  il'Leans  at  tlie  battle  of  Harlaw.  Lord 
George  Murray,  however,  maintained  that,  under  the 
318 


CULLODEN 

Marquis  of  Montrose,  the  right  had  been  assigned  to  the 
Athole  men,  and  he  insisted  that  that  post  should  now 
be  conferred  upon  them.  In  this  rmseasonable  demand. 
Lord  George  is  said  to  have  been  supported  by  Loehiel 
and  his  friends.  Charles  refused  to  decide  a  question 
with  the  merits  of  which  he  was  imperfectly  acquainted ; 
but,  as  it  was  necessary  to  adjust  the  difference  imme- 
diately, he  prevailed  upon  the  commanders  of  the 
M 'Donald  regiments  to  waive  their  pretensions  in  the 
present  instance.  The  M'Donalds  in  general  were  far 
from  being  satisfied  with  the  complaisance  of  their  com- 
manders, and,  as  they  had  occupied  the  post  of  honour 
at  Prestonpans  and  Falkirk,  they  considered  their  de- 
privation of  it  on  the  present  occasion  ominous.  The 
Duke  of  Perth,  while  he  stood  at  the  head  of  the  Glen- 
garry regiment,  hearing  the  murmurs  of  the  M'Donalds, 
said,  that  if  they  behaved  with  their  wonted  valour 
they  would  make  a  right  of  the  left,  and  that  he  would 
change  his  name  to  M 'Donald  ;  but  the  haughty  clans- 
men paid  no  heed  to  him. 

The  second  line  of  the  Highland  army  consisted  of 
the  Gordons  under  Lord  Lewis  Gordon,  formed  in 
column  on  the  right,  the  French  Royal  Scots,  the  Irish 
piquets  or  brigade.  Lord  Kilmarnock's  foot  guards, 
Lord  John  Drummond's  regiment,  and  Glenbucket's 
regiment  in  column  on  the  left,  flanked  on  the  right  by 
Fitz-James's  dragoons,  and  Lord  Elcho's  horse-guards, 
and  on  the  left  by  the  Perth  squadron,  under  Lords 
Strathallan  and  Pitsligo,  and  the  Prince's  body-guard.s 
under  Lord  Balmerino.  General  Stapleton  had  the 
command  of  this  line.  The  third  line,  or  reserve,  con- 
sisted of  the  Duke  of  Perth's  and  Lord  Ogilvy's  regi- 
ments, under  the  last-mentioned  nobleman.  The 
Prince  himself,  surrounded  by  a  troop  of  Fitz-James's 
horse,  took  his  station  on  a  very  small  eminence  behind 
the  centre  of  the  first  line,  from  which  he  had  a  com- 
plete view  of  the  whole  field  of  battle.  The  extremities 
of  the  front  line  and  the  centre  were  each  protected  by 
four  pieces  of  cannon. 

The  English  army  continued  steadily  to  advance  in 
the  order  already  described,  and,  after  a  march  of  eight 
miles,  formed  in  line  of  battle,  in  consequence  of  the 
advance  guard  reporting  that  they  perceived  the  High- 
land army  at  some  distance  making  a  motion  towards 
them  on  the  left.  Finding,  however,  that  the  High- 
landers were  still  at  a  considerable  distance,  and  that 
the  whole  body  did  not  move  forward,  the  Duke  of 
Cumberland  resumed  his  march,  and  continued  to 
advance  till  within  a  mile  of  the  enemy,  when  he 
ordered  a  halt,  and,  after  reconnoitring  the  position  of 
the  Highlanders,  re-formed  his  army  for  battle  in  three 
lines,  and  in  the  following  order. 

The  first  line  consisted  of  six  regiments,  viz.,  the 
Royals  (the  1st),  Cholmondeley's  (the  34th),  Price's 
(the  14th),  the  Scots  Fusilcers  (the  21st),  Monro's 
(the  37th),  and  Barrel's  (the  4th).  The  Earl  of  Albe- 
marle had  the  command  of  this  line.  In  the  interme- 
diate spaces  between  each  of  these  regiments  were  placed 
two  pieces  of  cannon,  making  ten  in  all.  The  second 
line  consisted  of  five  regiments,  viz.,  those  of  Pulteney 
(the  13th),  Bligh  (the  20th),  Sempill  (the  25th),  Li- 
gonier  (the  4Sth),  and  Wolfe's  (the  8th),  and  was  under 
the  command  of  General  Huske.  Three  pieces  of 
cannon  were  jdaced  between  the  exterior  regiments  of 
this  line  and  those  next  them.  The  third  line  or  corps 
de  reserve,  under  Brigadier  Jlordaunt,  consisted  of  four 
regiments,  viz.,  Battereau's  (the  62d),  Howard's  (the 
3d),  Fleming's  (the  3(3th),  and  Blakeney's  (the  27th), 
flanked  by  Kingston's  dragoons  (the  3d).  The  order  in 
which  the  regiments  of  the  dilierent  lines  are  enume- 
rated is  that  in  which  they  stood  from  right  to  left. 
The  flanks  of  the  front  line  were  protected  on  the  left 
by  Kerr's  dragoons  (the  11th),  consisting  of  three 
squadrons,  commanded  by  Lord  Ancrum,  and  on  the 
right  by  Cobliam's  dragoons  (the  10th),  consisting  also 
of  three  S(piadions,  under  General  Bland,  with  the  ad- 
ditional security  of  a  morass,  extending  towards  the 
sea  ;  but,  thinking  liimself  (juite  safe  on  the  right,  the 
Duke  afterwards  ordered  these  last  to  the  left,  to  aid  in 


CULLODEN 


CULLODEN 


an  intended  attack  upon  tlie  riglit  flank  of  the  High- 
landers. The  Argyll  men,  with  the  exception  of  140, 
who  were  upon  the  left  of  the  reserve,  remained  in 
charge  of  the  baggage. 

The  dispositions  of  both  armies  are  considered  to 
have  been  well  arranged  ;  but  both  were  better  cal- 
culated for  defence  than  for  attack.  The  arrangement 
of  the  English  army  is  generally  considered  to  have 
been  superior  to  that  of  the  Higlilanders  ;  as,  from  the 
regiments  in  the  second  and  third  lines  being  placed 
directly  behind  the  vacant  spaces  between  the  regiments 
in  the  lines  before  them,  the  Duke  of  Cumberland,  in 
the  event  of  one  regiment  in  the  front  line  being 
broken,  could  immediately  bring  up  two  to  supply  its 
place.  But  this  opinion  is  questionable,  as  the  High- 
landers had  a  column  on  the  flanks  of  the  second  line, 
which  might  have  been  used  either  for  extension  or 
echelon  movemeut  towards  any  point  to  the  centre,  to 
support  either  the  first  or  the  second  line. 

In  the  dispositions  described,  and  about  the  distance 
of  a  mile  from  one  another,  did  the  two  armies  stand 
for  some  time,  each  expecting  the  other  to  advance. 
Whatever  may  have  been  the  feelings  of  Prince  Charles 
on  this  occasion,  those  of  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  ap- 
pear to  have  been  far  from  enviable.  The  thoughts  of 
Prestonpans  and  Falkirk  could  not  but  raise  in  him 
direful  apprehensions  for  the  result  of  a  battle  aflecting 
the  very  existence  of  his  father's  crown  ;  and  that  he 
placed  but  a  doubtful  reliance  upon  his  troops  is  evident 
from  a  speech  which  he  now  made  to  his  army.  He 
said  that  they  were  about  to  fight  in  defence  of  their 
king,  religion,  liberties,  and  property,  and  that  if  only 
they  stood  firm  he  had  no  doubt  he  should  lead  them  on 
to  certain  victory  ;  but  that  as  he  would  much  rather  be 
at  the  head  of  one  thousand  brave  and  resolute  men 
than  of  ten  thousand  mixed  with  cowards,  if  there 
were  any  amongst  them,  who,  through  timidity,  were 
difiident  of  their  courage,  or  others,  who,  from  con- 
science or  inclination,  felt  a  repugnance  to  perform  their 
duty,  he  begged  them  to  retire  immediately,  and  pro- 
mised them  free  pardon  for  so  doing,  since  by  remaining 
they  might  dispirit  or  disorder  the  other  troops,  and 
bring  dishonour  and  disgrace  on  the  army  under  his 
command. 

As  the  Highlanders  remained  in  their  position,  the 
Duke  of  Cumberland  again  put  his  army  in  marching 
order,  and,  after  it  had  advanced,  with  fixed  bayonets, 
within  half  a  mile  of  the  front  line  of  the  Highlanders, 
it  again  formed  as  before.  In  this  last  movement  the 
English  army  had  to  pass  a  piece  of  hollow  ground, 
which  was  so  soft  and  swampy,  that  the  horses  which 
drew  the  cannon  sank  ;  and  some  of  the  soldiers,  after 
slinging  their  firelocks  and  unyoking  the  horses,  had  to 
drag  the  cannon  across  the  bog.  As  by  this  last  move- 
ment the  army  advanced  beyond  the  morass  which  pi'o- 
tected  the  right  flank,  the  Duke  immediately  ordered  up 
Kingston's  horse  from  the  reserve,  and  a  small  squadron 
of  Cobham's  dragoons,  which  had  been  patrolling,  to 
cover  it ;  and  to  extend  his  line,  and  prevent  his  being 
outflanked  on  the  right,  he  also  at  the  same  time  ordered 
up  Pulteney's  regiment  (the  13th),  from  the  second  line 
to  the  right  of  the  Royals  ;  and  Fleming's  (the  36th), 
Howard's  (the  3d),  and  Battereau's  (the  62d),  to  the 
right  of  Bligh's  (the  20th)  in  the  second  line,  leaving 
Blakeney's  (the  27th)  as  a  reserve. 

During  an  interval  of  about  half  an  hour  some 
manoeuvring  took  place,  in  attempts  by  each  army  to 
outflank  the  other.  Meanwhile  a  heavy  shower  of  sleet 
came  on,  which,  though  discouraging  to  the  Duke's 
amiy,  from  the  recollection  of  the  untoward  occurrence 
at  Falkirk,  was  not  considered  very  dangerous,  as  they 
had  now  the  wind  at  their  backs.  To  encourage  his 
men,  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  rode  along  the  lines 
addressing  himself  hurriedly  to  every  regiment  as  he 
passed.  He  exhorted  his  men  to  rely  chiefly  upon  their 
bayonets,  and  to  allow  the  Highlanders  to  mingle  with 
them,  that  they  might  make  them  '  know  the  men  they 
had  to  deal  with.'  After  the  changes  mentioned  had 
been  executed.  His  Highness  took  his  station  behind  the 


Royals,  between  the  first  and  the  second  line,  and  almost 
in  front  of  the  left  of  Howard's  regiment,  waiting  for 
the  expected  attack.  Jleanwhile,  a  singular  occurrence 
took  place,  characteristic  of  the  self-devotion  which  the 
Highlanders  were  ready  on  all  occasions  to  manifest 
towards  the  Prince  and  his  cause.  Conceiving  that  by 
assassinating  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  he  would  confer 
an  essential  service  on  the  Prince,  a  Highlander  re- 
solved, at  the  certain  sacrifice  of  his  own  life,  to  make 
the  attempt.  With  this  intention  he  entered  the 
English  lines  as  a  deserter,  and,  being  gi'anted  quarter, 
was  allowed  to  go  through  the  ranks.  He  wandered 
about  with  apparent  indiflerence,  eyeing  the  different 
officers  as  he  passed  along,  and  it  was  not  long  till  an 
opportunity  occurred,  as  he  conceived,  for  executing  his 
fell  purpose.  The  Duke  having  ordered  Lord  Bury,  one 
of  his  aides-de-camp,  to  reconnoitre,  his  lordship  crossed 
the  path  of  the  Highlander,  who,  mistaking  him,  from 
his  dress,  for  the  Duke  (the  regimentals  of  both  being 
similar),  instantly  seized  a  musket  from  the  ground,  and 
discharged  it  at  his  lordship.  He  missed  his  aim,  and 
a  soldier,  who  was  standing  by,  shot  him  dead  on  the 
spot. 

The  advance  of  Lord  Bury  to  within  a  hundred  yards 
of  the  insurgents  appears  to  have  been  considered  by  the 
Highlanders  as  the  proper  occasion  for  beginning  the 
battle.  Taking  ofl'  their  bonnets,  they  set  up  a  loud 
shout,  which  being  answered  by  the  royal  troops  with  a 
huzza,  the  Highlanders  about  one  o'clock  commenced 
a  cannonade  on  the  right,  which  was  followed  by  the 
cannon  on  the  left ;  but  the  fire  from  the  latter,  owing 
to  the  want  of  cannoneers,  was,  after  one  round,  discon- 
tinued. The  first  volley  from  the  right  seemed  to 
create  some  confusion  on  the  left  of  the  royal  army,  but 
so  badly  were  the  cannon  served  and  pointed,  that 
though  the  cannonade  was  continued  upwards  of  half  an 
hour,  only  one  man  in  Bligh's  regiment,  who  had  a  leg 
carried  off  by  a  cannon-ball,  received  any  injury.  After 
the  Highlanders  had  continued  firing  for  a  short  time, 
Colonel  Belford,  who  directed  the  cannon  of  the  Duke's 
army,  opened  fire  from  the  cannon  in  the  front  line,  at 
first  aiming  chiefly  at  the  horse,  probably  either  because 
from  their  conspicuous  situation  they  oftered  a  better 
mark  than  the  infantry,  or  because  it  was  supposed  that 
Charles  was  among  them.  Such  was  the  accuracy  of 
the  aim  taken  by  the  royal  artillerj',  that  several  balls 
entered  the  gi-ound  among  the  horses'  legs  and  be- 
spattered the  Prince  with  the  mud  that  they  raised ; 
and  one  of  them  struck  the  horse  on  which  he  rode  two 
inches  above  the  knee.  The  animal  became  so  unman- 
ageable, that  Charles  was  obliged  to  change  him  for 
another,  and  one  of  his  servants,  who  stood  behind  with 
a  led  horse  in  his  hand,  was  killed  on  the  spot.  Ob- 
serving that  the  wall  on  the  right  flank  of  the  Highland 
anny  prevented  him  from  attacking  on  that  point,  the 
Duke  ordered  Colonel  Belford  to  continue  the  cannonade, 
with  the  view  of  provoking  the  Highlanders  and  draw- 
ing them  on  to  attack.  They,  on  the  other  hand,  en- 
deavoured to  lure  the  royal  army  forward,  and  sent  down 
several  parties  by  way  of  defiance.  Some  of  these  ap- 
proached three  several  times  within  a  hundred  yards  of 
the  right  of  the  enemy,  firing  their  pistols  and  brandish- 
ing their  swords  ;  but  with  the  exception  of  the  small 
squadron  of  horse  on  the  right,  which  advanced  a  little, 
the  line  remained  immovable. 

ileanwhile.  Lord  George  Murray,  observing  that  a 
squadron  of  the  English  dragoons  and  a  party  of  foot, 
consisting  of  two  companies  of  the  Argyllshire  men,  and 
one  of  Lord  Loudon's  Highlanders,  had  detached  them- 
selves from  the  left  of  the  royal  army,  and  were  march- 
ing down  towards  the  I'iver  Nairn,  conceived  that  it 
was  their  intention  to  flank  the  Highlanders,  or  to  come 
ujion  their  rear  when  engaged  in  front,  so  directed  Gordon 
of  Avochy  to  advance  with  his  battalion,  and  prevent 
tlie  foot  from  entering  the  enclosure.  Bat  before  this 
battalion  could  reach  them,  they  had  broken  into  it,  and 
throwing  down  part  of  the  east  wall,  and  afterwards  a 
piece  of  the  west  wall  in  the  rear  of  the  second  line, 
made  a  free  passage  for  the  dragoons,  who  formed  in  tho 


CULLODEN 

rear  of  the  Prince's  army.  Upon  this,  Lord  George 
ordered  the  guards  -ind"  Fitz-Jamcs's  horse  to  form 
opposite  to  tiie  dragoons  to  keep  them  in  check.  Each 
party  stood  upon  one  side  of  a  ravine,  the  ascent  to 
which  was  so  steep,  that  neither  couhl  venture  across  in 
presence  of  the  other  with  safety.  The  foot  remained 
within  the  enclosure,  and  Avochy's  battalion  was 
ordered  to  watch  their  motions. 

It  was  now  high  time  for  the  Highlanders  to  come  to 
%  close  engagement.  Lord  George  had  sent  Colonel 
Kerr  to  the  Prince,  to  know  if  he  should  begin  the 
attack  ;  the  Prince  ordered  him  to  do  so,  but  his  lord- 
ship, for  some  reason  or  other,  delayed  advancing.  It 
is  probable  he  expected  that  the  Uuke  would  come 
forward,  and  that  by  remaining  where  he  was,  and 
retaining  the  wall  and  a  small  farmhouse  on  his 
right,  he  would  avoid  the  risk  of  being  flanked. 
Perhaps  he  waited  for  the  advance  of  the  left  wing, 
which,  being  not  so  far  forward  as  the  right,  was 
directed  to  begin  the  attack,  and  orders  had  been  sent 
to  the  Duke  of  Perth  to  that  effect ;  but  the  left  remained 
motionless.  Anxious  for  the  attack,  Charles  sent  a  fresh 
order  by  an  aide-de-camp  to  Lord  George  Murray,  but 
his  Lordship  never  received  it,  as  the  bearer  was  killed 
by  a  cannon-ball  while  on  his  way  to  the  right.  He 
sent  a  message  about  the  same  time  to  Lochiel,  desiring 
him  to  urge  upon  Lord  George  the  necessity  of  an  imme- 
diate attack. 

Galled  be3'ond  endurance  by  the  fire  of  the  English, 
which  carried  destruction  among  the  clans,  the  High- 
landers grew  clamorous,  and  called  aloud  to  be  led 
forward  without  further  delay.  Unable  any  longer  to 
restrain  their  impatience.  Lord  George  had  just  resolved 
upon  an  immediate  advance  ;  but  before  he  had  time  to 
issue  the  order  along  the  line,  the  M'Intoshes,  wath  a 
heroism  worthy  of  that  brave  clan,  rushed  forward 
enveloped  in  the  smoke  of  the  enemy's  cannon.  The 
fire  of  the  centre  field-pieces,  and  a  discharge  of  mus- 
ketry from  the  Scotch  Fusileers,  forced  them  to  incline 
a  little  to  the  right ;  but  all  the  regiments  to  their 
right,  led  on  by  Lord  George  ]\Iurray  in  person,  and  the 
united  regiment  of  the  M'Lauchlans  and  M'Leans  on 
their  left,  coming  down  close  after  them,  the  whole 
moved  forward  together  at  a  pretty  quick  pace.  When 
within  pistol-shot  of  the  English  line,  they  received  a 
murderous  fire,  not  only  in  front  from  some  field-pieces, 
which  for  the  first  time  were  loaded  now  with  grape, 
but  in  flank  from  a  side  battery  supported  by  the 
Campbells,  and  Lord  Loudon's  Highlanders.  Whole 
ranks  were  swept  away  by  the  terrible  fire  of  the  Eng- 
lish. Yet,  notwithstanding  the  carnage  in  their  ranks, 
the  Highlanders  continued  to  advance,  and,  after  giving 
their  fire  close  to  the  English  line,  which,  from  the 
density  of  the  smoke,  was  scarcely  visible  even  within 
pistol-shot,  the  right  wing,  consisting  of  the  Athole 
Highlanders  and  the  Camerons,  rushed  onward  sword 
in  hand,  and  broke  through  Barrel's  and  Monroe's  regi- 
ments, which  stood  on  the  left  of  the  first  line.  These 
regiments  bravely  defended  themselves  with  their  spon- 
toons  and  bayonets  ;  but  such  was  the  impetuosity  of 
the  onset,  that  they  would  have  been  cut  to  pieces  had 
they  not  been  supported  Ity  two  regiments  from  the 
second  line,  on  whose  approach  they  retired  behind  the 
regiments  on  their  right,  after  sustaining  a  loss  in  killed 
and  wounded  of  upwards  of  200  men.  After  breaking 
through  these  two  regiments,  the  Highlanders  hurried 
forward  to  attack  the  left  of  the  second  line.  They  were 
met  by  a  tremendous  fire  of  grape  from  the  three  field- 
pieces  on  the  left  of  the  second  line,  and  by  a  discharge 
of  musketry  from  Bligh's  and  Scmpill's  regiments,  which 
carried  havoc  through  their  ranks,  and  ma<le  them  at 
first  recoil  ;  but,  maddened  by  despair,  and  utterly 
regardless  of  their  lives,  they  rushed  upon  an  enemy 
wiioni  they  felt  but  could  not  see  amid  the  cloud  of 
smoke  in  which  the  assailants  were  wra])]ied.  By  the 
Stewarts  of  Appin,  the  Frasers,  the  M'Intoshes,  and 
the  other  centre  regiments,  a  charge  as  fierce  was  made 
on  tlie  foe  ])efore  them,  driving  them  back  upon  the 
•ecoud  line,  which  they  also  attempted  to  break ;  but, 
320 


CULLODEN 

finding  themselves  unable,  they  gave  up  the  contest, 
not,  however,  until  numbers  had  been  cut  do^^•n  at  the 
cannon's  mouth.  While  advancing  towards  the  second 
line,  Lord  George  Murray,  in  attempting  to  dismount 
from  his  horse,  which  had  become  unmanageable,  was 
thrown  ;  but,  recovering  himself,  he  ran  to  the  rear  and 
brought  up  two  or  three  regiments  from  the  second  line 
to  support  the  first ;  but  though  they  gave  their  fire, 
nothing  could  be  done, — all  was  lost.  Unable  to  break 
the  second  line,  and  terribly  cut  up  by  the  fire  of  Wolfe's 
regiment,  and  by  Cobham's  and  Kerr's  dragoons,  who 
had  formed  en  jwtcnce  on  their  right  flank,  the  right 
wing  also  gave  up  the  contest,  and,  turning  about,  cut 
their  way  back,  sword  in  hand,  through  those  who  had 
advanced  and  formed  on  the  ground  they  had  passed 
over  in  charging  to  their  front. 

In  consequence  of  the  unwillingness  of  the  left  to 
advance  first  as  directed.  Lord  George  Murray  had  sent 
the  order  to  attack  from  right  to  left ;  but,  hurried 
by  the  impetuosity  of  the  M'Intoshes,  the  right  and 
centre  did  not  wait  till  the  order,  which  required  some 
minutes  in  the  delivery,  had  been  communicated  along 
the  line.  Thus  the  right  and  centre  had  considerably 
the  start,  and,  quickening  their  pace  as  they  went  along, 
had  closed  with  the  front  liue  of  the  English  army  before 
the  left  had  got  half  way  over  the  ground  that  separated 
the  two  armies.  The  diff'erence  between  the  right  and 
centre  and  the  left  was  rendered  still  more  considerable 
from  the  circumstance,  as  noted  by  an  eye-witness,  that 
the  two  armies  were  not  exactly  parallel  to  one  another, 
the  right  of  the  Prince's  army  being  nearer  the  Duke'a 
than  the  left.  Nothing  could  be  more  unfortunate  for 
the  Prince  than  this  isolated  attack,  as  it  was  only  by  a 
general  shock  on  the  whole  of  the  English  line  that  he 
had  any  chance  of  victory. 

The  clan  regiments  on  the  left  of  the  line,  fearful 
that  they  would  be  flanked  by  Pulteney's  regiment  and 
the  horse  which  had  been  brought  up  from  the  coiys  de 
reserve,  held  back.  After  receiving  the  fire  of  the  regi- 
ments opposite  to  them,  they  answered  it  by  a  general 
discharge,  and  drew  their  swords  for  the  attack  ;  but, 
observing  that  the  right  and  centre  had  given  way,  they 
turned  their  backs  and  fled  without  striking  a  blow. 
Stung  to  the  quick  by  the  misconduct  of  the  M 'Donalds, 
the  gallant  Keppoch  advanced  with  drawn  sword  in  one 
hand  and  pistol  in  the  other  ;  but  he  had  not  gone  far 
when  a  musket-shot  brought  him  down.  He  was  fol- 
lowed by  Donald  Roy  M 'Donald,  formerly  a  lieutenant 
in  his  own  regiment,  and  now  a  captain  in  Clanranald's, 
who,  on  Keppoch's  falling,  entreated  him  not  to  throw 
away  his  life,  assuring  him  that  his  wound  was  not 
mortal,  and  that  he  might  easily  join  his  regiment  in 
the  retreat ;  but — with  the  exclamation,  '  My  God  ! 
have  the  children  of  my  tribe  forsaken  me?' — Keppoch 
refused  to  listen  to  the  solicitations  of  his  clansman, 
and,  after  recommending  him  to  look  to  himself,  and 
receiving  another  shot,  he  fell  to  rise  no  more. 

Fortunately  for  the  Highlanders,  the  English  army 
did  not  follow  up  the  advantage  it  had  gained  by  an 
immediate  pursuit.  Kingston's  horse  at  first  chased  the 
M 'Donalds,  some  of  whom  were  almost  surrounded  by 
them  ;  but  they  were  kept  in  check  by  the  French 
piquets.  The  dragoons  on  the  left  of  the  English  line 
were  in  like  manner  kept  at  bay  by  Ogilvy's  regiment, 
which  faced  about  upon  them  several  times.  After 
these  ineffectual  attempts,  the  English  cavalry  on  the 
right  and  left  met  in  the  centre ;  and,  the  front  line 
having  dressed  its  ranks,  orders  were  issued  for  the 
whole  to  advance  in  pursuit. 

Charles,  who,  from  the  small  eminence  on  which  he 
stood,  had  observed  with  the  deepest  concern  the  defeat 
and  flight  of  the  clans,  was  about  to  advance  to  rallj 
them,  contrary  to  the  earnest  entreaties  of  Sir  Thomas 
Sheridan  and  others,  who  assured  him  that  he  would 
not  succeed.  All  their  expostulations  would,  it  is  said, 
have  failed,  had  not  General  O'SuUivan  laid  hold  of 
the  bridle  of  Charles's  horse,  and  led  him  off  the  field. 
It  was,  indeed,  full  time  to  retire,  as  the  whole  army 
was  now  in  full  retreat,  followed  by  Cumberland's  forces. 


CULLODEN 

To  protect  the  Prince  and  secure  his  escape,  most  of  his 
horse  assembled  about  liis  person  ;  but  tlicre  was  little 
danger,  as  the  victors  advanced  ver}-  leisurely,  and  con- 
fined themselves  to  cutting  down  defenceless  stragglers 
who  fell  in  their  way.  After  leaving  the  field,  Charles 
put  himself  at  the  head  of  the  right  wing,  which  retired 
in  such  order  that  the  cavalry  sent  to  pursue  could  make 
no  impression  on  it. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  field  of  battle,  Charles 
separated  his  army  into  two  parts.  One  of  these  divi- 
sions, consisting,  with  the  exception  of  the  Frasers,  of 
the  whole  of  the  Highlanders  and  the  low  country  regi- 
ments, crossed  the  river  Nairn,  and  proceeded  towards 
Badenoch ;  the  other,  comprising  the  Frasers,  Lord 
Jolin  Drummond's  regiment,  and  the  French  piquets, 
took  the  road  to  Inverness.  The  first  division  passed 
within  pistol-shot  of  the  body  of  English  cavalry  which, 
before  the  action,  had  formed  in  the  rear  of  the  High- 
land army,  without  the  least  interruption.  An  English 
officer,  wiio  had  the  temerity  to  advance  a  few  paces  to 
seize  a  Highlander,  was  instantly  cut  down  by  him  and 
killed  on  the  spot.  The  Highlander,  instead  of  running 
away,  deliberately  stooped  down,  and,  pulling  out  a 
watch  from  the  pocket  of  his  victim,  rejoined  his  com- 
panions. From  the  evenness  of  the  ground  over  which 
it  had  to  pass,  the  smaller  body  of  the  Prince's  army  was 
less  fortunate,  as  it  suffered  considerably  from  the 
attacks  of  the  Duke's  light  horse  before  it  reached 
Inverness.  Numerous  small  parties,  which  had  de- 
tached themselves  from  the  main  body,  fell  under  the 
sabres  of  the  cavalry  ;  and  many  of  the  inhabitants  of 
the  town  and  neighbourhood,  who,  from  motives  of 
cui'iosity,  had  come  out  to  witness  the  battle,  were 
slaughtered  without  mercy  by  the  ferocious  soldiery, 
who,  from  the  similarity  of  garb,  were  perhaps  unable 
to  distinguish  them  from  Charles's  troops.  This  indis- 
criminate massacre  continued  all  the  way  from  the  field 
of  battle  to  a  place  called  Mill-burn,  within  a  mile  of 
Inverness.  Not  content  with  the  profusion  of  blood- 
shed in  the  heat  of  action  and  during  the  pursuit,  the 
infuriated  soldiery,  provoked  by  their  disgraces  at  Pres- 
tonpans  and  Falkirk,  traversed  the  field  of  battle,  and 
massacred  in  cold  blood  the  maimed  and  dying.  Even 
some  officers,  whose  station  in  society,  apart  altogether 
from  feelings  of  humanity,  to  which  they  were  utter 
strangers,  should  have  made  them  superior  to  this 
vulgar  triumph  of  base  and  illiberal  minds,  joined  in 
the  work  of  assassination.  To  extenuate  the  atrocities 
committed  in  the  battle,  and  the  subsequent  slaughters, 
a  forged  regimental  order,  bearing  to  be  signed  by  Lord 
George  Murray,  by  which  the  Highlanders  were  enjoined 
to  refuse  quarter  to  the  royal  troops,  was  afterwards 
published,  it  is  said  under  the  auspices  of  the  Duke  of 
Cumberland  ;  but  the  deception  was  easily  seen  through. 
As  no  such  order  was  alluded  to  in  the  official  accounts 
of  the  battle,  and  as,  at  the  interview  which  took  place 
between  the  Earl  of  Kilmarnock  and  Lord  Balmerino,  on 
the  morning  of  their  execution,  both  these  noblemen 
stated  their  entire  ignorance  of  it,  no  doubt  whatever 
can  exist  of  the  forgery.  The  conduct  of  Charles  and 
his  followers,  who  never  indulged  in  any  triumph  over 
their  vanquished  foes,  but  always  treated  them  with 
humanity  and  kindness,  high  as  it  is,  stands  higher  still 
in  contrast  with  that  of  the  royal  troops  and  their  com- 
mander. 

From  the  characteristic  bravery  of  the  Highlanders, 
and  their  contempt  of  death,  it  is  likely  that  some  of 
those  who  perished,  as  well  on  the  field  after  the  battle 
as  in  the  flight,  did  not  yiekl  their  lives  without  a 
desperate  struggle  ;  and  history  has  preserved  one  case 
of  individual  prowess,  in  the  person  of  Golice  Macbane, 
that  deserves  to  be  recorded.  This  man,  who  is  repre- 
sented to  have  been  of  the  gigantic  stature  of  6  feet  4^ 
inches,  was  beset  by  a  party  of  dragoons.  Assailed,  he 
set  his  back  against  a  wall,  and,  although  covered  with 
wounds,  defended  himself  with  target  and  claymore 
against  the  onset.  Some  officers,  who  observed  the 
unequal  conflict,  were  so  struck  witii  the  desperate 
bravery  of  Macbane,  that  they  gave  orders  to  save  him  ; 
21 


CULLODEN 

but  the  dragoons,  exasperated  by  his  resistance,  and  the 
dreadful  havoc  he  had  made  among  their  companions, 
thirteen  of  whom  lay  dead  at  his  feet,  would  not  desist 
till  they  had  cut  him  down. 

According  to  the  official  accoimts  published  by  the 
government,  the  royal  army  had  only  50  men  killed, 
and  259  wounded,  including  18  officers,  4  of  whom  were 
killed.  Lord  Robert  Kerr,  second  son  of  the  JMarquis  of 
Lothian,  and  captain  of  grenadiers  in  Barrel's  regiment, 
was  the  only  person  of  distinction  killed  ;  he  fell  covced 
with  wounds,  at  the  head  of  his  company,  when  the 
Highlanders  attacked  his  regiment.  The  loss  on  the 
opposite  side  was  never  ascertained  with  any  degi'ee  of 
precision.  The  number  of  the  slain  is  stated,  in  some 
publications  of  the  period,  to  have  amounted  to  upwards 
of  2000  men,  but  these  accounts  are  exaggerated.  The 
loss  could  not,  however,  be  much  short  of  1200  men. 
The  Athole  brigade  alone  lost  more  than  the  half  of  its 
officers  and  men,  and  some  of  the  centre  battalions  came 
off"  with  scarcely  a  third  of  their  men.  The  M'ln- 
toshes,  who  were  the  first  to  attack,  suffered  most. 
With  the  exception  of  three  only,  all  the  officers  of  this 
brave  regiment,  including  M'Gillivray  of  Drumnaglass, 
its  colonel,  the  lieutenant-colonel,  and  major,  were  killed 
in  the  attack.  All  the  other  centre  regiments  also  lost 
several  officers.  M'Lauchlan,  colonel  of  the  united 
regiment  of  M'Lauchlan  and  M'Lean,  was  killed  by  a 
cannon-ball  in  the  beginning  of  the  action,  and  M'Lean 
of  Drimmin,  who,  as  lieutenant-colonel,  succeeded  to 
the  command,  met  a  similar  fate  from  a  random  shot. 
He  had  three  sons  in  the  regiment,  one  of  whom  fell  in 
the  attack,  and,  when  leading  oft'  the  shattered  remains 
of  his  forces,  he  missed  the  other  two,  and,  in  returning 
to  look  after  them,  received  the  fatal  bullet.  Charles 
Eraser,  younger  of  Inverallochie,  lieutenant-colonel  of 
the  Eraser  regiment,  and,  in  the  absence  of  the  blaster 
of  Lovat,  commander  of  it  on  this  occasion,  was  also 
killed.  When  riding  over  the  field  after  the  battle,  the 
Duke  of  Cumberland  observed  this  brave  youth  lying 
wounded.  Raising  himself  upon  his  elbow,  he  looked 
at  the  Duke,  who,  offended  at  him,  said  to  one  of  his 
officers :  '  Wolfe,  shoot  me  that  Highland  scoundrel 
who  thus  dares  to  look  on  us  with  so  insolent  a  stare. ' 
Wolfe,  horrified  at  the  inhuman  order,  replied  that  his 
commission  was  at  his  royal  highness's  disposal,  but 
that  he  would  never  consent  to  become  an  executioner. 
Other  officers  refusing  to  comiuit  this  act  of  butchery,  a 
private  soldier,  at  the  command  of  the  Duke,  shot  the 
hapless  youth  before  his  eyes.  The  Ajjpin  regiment  had 
17  officers  and  gentlemen  slain,  and  10  wounded  ;  and 
the  Athole  brigade,  which  lost  fully  half  its  men,  had 
19  officers  killed  and  4  wounded.  The  fate  of  the  heroic 
Keppoch  has  been  already  mentioned.  Among  the 
wounded,  the  princijial  was  Lochiel,  who  was  shot  in 
both  ankles  with  grape-shot  at  the  head  of  his  regiment, 
after  discharging  his  pistol,  and  while  in  the  act  of 
drawing  his  sword.  On  falling,  his  two  brothers,  be- 
tween whom  he  was  advancing,  raised  him  up,  and 
carried  him  off  the  field  in  their  arms.  To  add  to  his 
misfortunes,  Charles  also  lost  a  considerable  number  of 
gentlemen,  his  most  <levoted  adherents,  who  had  charged 
on  foot  in  the  first  rank. 

Lord  Strathallan  was  the  only  person  of  distinction 
that  fell  among  the  low  country  regiments.  Lord  Kil- 
marnock and  Sir  John  Wedderburn  were  taken  prisoners. 
The  former,  in  the  confusion  of  the  battle,  mistook, 
amidst  the  smoke,  a  party  of  English  dragoons  for  Fitz- 
James's  horse,  and  was  taken.  Having  lost  his  hat,  he 
was  led  bare-headed  to  tlie  front  line  of  the  English 
infantry.  His  son,  Lord  Boyd,  who  held  a  commission 
in  the  English  army,  unable  to  restrain  his  feelings, 
left  the  ranks,  and,  going  up  to  his  imfortunate  parent, 
took  off  his  own  hat,  placed  it  on  his  father's  head,  and 
returned  to  his  place  without  uttering  a  word. 

At  other  times,  and  under  different  circumstances,  a 
battle  like  that  of  CuUoden  would  have  been  regarded 
as  an  ordinary  occurrence,  of  which,  when  all  matters 
were  duly  considered,  the  victors  could  make  small 
boast.     The  Highland  army  did  not  exceed  5000  tight- 

321 


CULLODEN 

ing  men ;  and  when  it  is  considered  that  they  had 
been  two  days  without  sleep,  were  exhausted  by  the 
march  of  the  preceding  night,  and  hatl  scarcely  tasted 
food  for  forty-eight  hours,  the  wonder  is  that  they  fought 
so  well  as  they  did,  against  an  army  almost  double  in 
point  of  numbers,  and  labouring  under  none  of  the  dis- 
advantages to  which,  iu  a  more  esjjecial  manner,  the 
overthrow  of  the  Highlanders  is  to  be  ascribed.  Never- 
theless, as  the  spirits  of  the  great  majority  of  the  nation 
had  been  sunk  to  the  lowest  state  of  despondency  by  the 
reverses  of  the  royal  arms  at  Prestonpans  and  Falkirk, 
this  unlooked-for  event  was  hailed  as  one  of  the  greatest 
military  achievements  of  ancient  or  modern  times  ;  and 
the  Duke  of  Cumberland,  who  had,  in  consequence,  an 
addition  of  £25,000  per  annum  made  to  his  income  by 
parliament,  was  regarded  as  the  greatest  hero  of  ancient 
or  modern  times.  In  its  consequences,  as  entirely  and 
for  ever  destructive  of  the  claims  of  the  unfortunate 
house  of  Stuart,  the  battle  was  one  of  the  most  imjjort- 
ant  ever  fought.  Though  vanquished,  the  Highlanders 
retired  from  the  field  with  honour,  and  free  from  that 
foul  reproach  which  has  fixed  an  indelible  stain  upon 
the  memories  of  the  victors. 

After  the  carnage  of  tlie  day  had  ceased,  the  brutal 
soldiery,  who,  from  the  fiendish  delight  which  they  took 
in  sprinkling  one  another  with  the  blood  of  the  slain, 
'  looked,'  as  stated  bj^  one  of  themselves,  '  like  so  many 
butchers  rather  than  an  army  of  Christian  soldiers,' 
dined  on  the  field  of  battle.  After  his  men  had  finished 
their  repast,  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  marched  forward 
to  take  possession  of  Inverness,  and  on  his  way  received 
a  letter,  which  had  been  addressed  to  General  Bland, 
signed  by  six  of  the  French  ofiicers  in  the  insurgent 
army,  ottering  in  behalf  of  themselves  and  their  men  to 
surrender  unconditionally  to  His  Royal  Highness.  As 
he  was  about  to  enter  the  town  he  was  met  by  a  drum- 
mer, who  brought  him  a  message  from  General  Staple- 
ton,  olfering  to  surrender  and  asking  quarter.  On 
receiving  this  communication,  the  Duke  ordered  Sir 
Joseph  Yorke,  one  of  his  ofiicers,  to  alight  from  his 
horse,  and  pencil  a  note  to  General  Stapleton,  assuring 
him  of  fair  quarter  and  honourable  treatment.  The 
town  was  then  taken  possession  of  by  Captain  Campbell, 
of  Sempill's  regiment,  with  his  company  of  gi'enadiers. 

Xotwithstauding  the  massacres  which  were  committed 
immediately  after  the  battle,  a  considerable  number  of 
wounded  Highlanders  still  survived,  some  of  whom  had 
taken  refuge  in  a  few  cottages  adjoining  the  field  of 
battle,  while  others  lay  scattered  among  the  neighbour- 
ing inclosures.  Many  of  these  men  might  have  recovered 
if  ordinary  attention  had  been  paid  to  them  ;  but  the 
stern  Duke,  considering  that  those  who  had  risen  in 
rebellion  against  his  father  were  not  entitled  to  the 
rights  of  humanity,  entirely  neglected  them.  But,  bar- 
barous as  such  conduct  was,  it  was  only  the  prelude  to 
enormities  of  a  still  more  revolting  descrijition.  At  first 
the  victors  conceived  that  they  had  completed  the  work 
of  death  by  killing  all  the  wounded  they  could  discover ; 
but  when  they  were  informed  that  some  still  survived, 
they  resolved  to  despatch  them.  A  Mr  Hossack,  who 
had  filled  the  situation  of  provost  of  Inverness,  and  who 
hud,  under  the  direction  of  President  Forbes,  jjcrformed 
important  .services  to  the  government,  having  gone  to 
pay  his  respects  to  the  Duke  of  Cumberland,  found 
Generals  Hawley  and  Huske  deliberating  on  this  in- 
liuman  design.  Observing  them  intent  upon  their 
object,  and  actually  proceeding  to  make  out  orders  for 
killing  the  wounded  Highlanders,  he  ventured  to  remon- 
strate against  such  a  barbarous  step.  '  As  his  majesty's 
troops  have  been  happily  successful  against  the  rebels, 
I  hope,'  he  said,  'your  excellencies  will  be  so  good  as 
to  mingle  mercy  with  judgment.'  Hawley,  in  a  rage, 
••ried  out,  '  D — n  the  l)Uiipy  !  does  he  pretend  to  dictate 
here  ?  Carry  him  away ! '  Anotiier  ofiicer  ordered  Hos- 
sack to  be  kicked  out,  and  the  order  was  obeyed  with 
such  instantaneous  precision,  that  tlie  ex-i)rovost  found 
Inmself  at  the  bottom  of  two  fiights  of  stejjs  almost  in  a 
twinkling. 

In  terms  of  the  cruel  instructions  alluded  to,  a  party 
322 


CULLOW 

was  despatched  from  Inverness  the  daj'  after  the  battle 
to  put  to  death  all  the  wounded  they  might  find  in  the 
inclosures  adjoining  the  field  of  Culloden.  These  orders 
were  fulfilled  with  a  punctualit}^  and  deliberation  that 
is  sickening  to  read  of.  Instead  of  despatching  their 
unfortunate  victims  on  the  spot  where  they  found  tliem, 
the  soldiers  dragged  them  from  the  places  wliere  they 
lay  weltering  in  their  gore,  and,  having  ranged  them  on 
some  spots  of  rising  ground,  poured  in  volleys  of  mus- 
ketry upon  them.  Next  day  parties  were  sent  to  search 
all  the  houses  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  field  of  battle, 
with  instructions  to  carry  thither  all  the  wounded  High- 
landers they  could  find  and  despatch  them.  Many  were 
iu  consequence  murdered ;  and  the  young  laird  of 
M'Leod  was  heard  frankly  to  declare,  that  on  this 
occasion  he  himself  saw  seventy-two  persons  killed  in 
cold  blood.  The  feelings  of  humanity  were  not,  how- 
ever, altogether  obliterated  in  the  hearts  of  some  of  the 
officers,  who  spared  a  few  of  the  wounded.  In  one  in- 
stance the  almost  incredible  cruelty  of  the  soldiery  was 
strikingly  exemplified.  At  a  short  distance  from  the 
field  of  battle  there  stood  a  small  hut,  used  for  shelter- 
ing sheep  and  goats  in  cold  and  stormy  weather,  into 
which  some  of  the  wovmded  had  crawled.  On  discover- 
ing them  the  soldiers  immediately  secured  the  door,  to 
prevent  egi'ess,  and  thereupon  set  fire  to  the  hut  in 
several  places,  and  all  the  persons  within,  to  the  number 
of  between  thirty  and  forty,  perished  in  the  flames. 

Another  instance  of  fiendish  cruelty  occurred  the 
same  day.  Almost  immediately  after  the  battle,  nine- 
teen wounded  officers  of  the  Highland  army,  unable  to 
follow  their  retiring  companions,  secreted  themselves  in 
a  small  plantation  near  Culloden  House.  Thence  they 
were  afterwards  carried  to  the  courtyard  of  the  mansion, 
where  they  remained  two  days  in  great  torture  weltering 
in  their  blood,  and  Mitliout  the  least  medical  aid  or 
attention  but  such  as  they  received  from  the  President's 
steward,  who,  at  the  hazard  of  his  own  life,  alleviated 
the  suflerings  of  his  unhappy  countrymen  by  several 
acts  of  kindness.  These  wretched  sulferers  were  now 
tied  with  ropes  by  the  brutal  soldiery,  thrown  into 
carts,  and  carried  out  to  a  park  wall  at  a  short  distance 
from  Culloden  House.  Dragged  out  of  the  carts,  they 
were  ranged  in  order  along  the  wall,  and  were  told  by 
the  ofiicer  in  command  of  the  party  to  prepare  for  death. 
Such  of  them  as  retained  the  use  of  their  limbs  fell  down 
upon  their  knees  in  prayer ;  but  they  had  little  time 
allowed  them  to  invoke  mere}-,  for  in  a  minute  the  sol- 
diers received  orders  to  fire,  and,  from  a  distance  of  only 
two  or  three  yards,  the  unfortunate  gentlemen  were  almost 
all  instantly  shot  dead.  To  complete  the  butchery, 
the  soldiers  were  ordered  to  club  their  muskets  and  dash 
out  the  brains  of  such  as  showed  any  symptoms  of  life, 
an  order  which,  horrible  to  tell,  was  actually  fulfilled. 
A  gentleman  named  John  Fraser,  who  had  been  an  offi- 
cer in  the  Master  of  Lovat's  regiment,  alone  survived. 
He  had  received  a  Ijall,  and,  being  obsei'ved  to  be  still 
alive,  was  struck  on  tlie  face  by  a  soldier  with  the  butt 
end  of  his  musket.  Though  one  of  his  cheek-bones  and 
the  upper  part  of  his  nose  were  broken,  and  one  of  his 
eyes  dashed  out  by  the  blow,  he  still  lived,  but  the 
party,  thinking  they  had  killed  him,  left  him  for  dead. 
He  would  probably  have  expired,  had  not  the  attention 
of  Lord  Boyd,  son  of  the  Earl  of  Kilmarnock,  when 
riding  past,  been  fortunately  attracted  by  the  number 
of  dead  bodies  lying  together.  Espying,  at  a  little  dis- 
tance from  the  heap,  one  body  stirring,  his  lordship 
went  up,  and  having  ascertained  from  the  mouth  of  the 
sufferer  who  he  was,  ordered  his  servant  to  carry  Mr 
Fraser  to  a  cottage  near  at  hand,  where  he  lay  concealed 
for  three  months.  He  lived  several  years  afterwards, 
but  was  a  crijqile  for  life. 

See  The  Culloden  Papers,  1625-1748  (1815);  Hill 
Burton's  Life  of  Duncan  Forbes  (ISiS),  and  vol.  viii. ,  pp. 
486-496,  of  his  Jlistory  of  Scolland  (ed.  1876);  Robert 
Chambers's  History  of  the  llehcllion  (1S47);  and  Alex. 
Charles  Ewald's  Life  and  Times  of  rrincc  Charles 
Stuart  (2  vols.,  1876). 

CuUow,  a  farm  in  the  parish  and  near  the  hamlet  of 


CULLY 

Cortachy,  NW  Forfarshire,  5  miles  N  of  Kirriemuir. 
A  sheep  fair  is  held  here  on  the  last  Friday  of  April. 

Cully.     See  Cally. 

CuUykhan,  a  romantic  ravine  in  the  E  of  Gamrie  parish, 
Bantlshire,  traversed  by  a  brook,  and  descending  to  the 
sea,  near  Troup  House. 

Culmallie.     See  Golspie. 

Culquhanny.     See  Colquhony. 

Culrain,  a  station  in  Kincardine  parish,  N  Ross-shire, 
on  the  Highland  railway,  3  miles  NW  of  Ardgay,  under 
which  it  has  a  post  and  telegraph  office.  Near  it  is 
Culrain  Lodge. 

Culross  (Gael,  'back  or  neck  of  the  peninsula'),  a 
small  town  and  a  parish  in  the  detached  district  of  Perth- 
shire.     A   royal   and   parliamentary  burgh,   the  town 


Seal  of  Culross. 

stands  on  the  Firth  of  Forth,  2i  miles  SSE  of  East 
Grange  station,  this  being  6  miles  W  by  N  of  Dunferm- 
line, and  7f  ESE  of  Alloa.  It  occujnes  the  face  of  a 
brae,  amid  gardens  and  fruit-trees,  and,  as  seen  from 
the  Firth,  has  a  pleasing  and  picturesque  aspect ;  but, 
once  a  place  of  importance,  it  has  fallen  into  gi'eat  decay. 
It  had  a  Cistercian  abbey  which  possessed  much  wealth, 
and  worked  large  neighbouring  coal  mines ;  it  conducted 
so  great  a  trade  in  salt  and  coal  that  sometimes  as  many 
as  170  foreign  vessels  lay  off  it  simultaneously  in  the 
Firth,  to  receive  the  produce  of  its  salt-pans  and  its 
mines  ;  it  carried  on  a  great  manufacture  of  the  round 
iron  baking-plates  called  girdles,  w'hich,  as  noticed  in 
Scott's  Heart  of  Midlothinn,  rendered  its  hammermen 
pre-eminently  famous ;  and  it  acquired,  towards  the  close 
of  the  ISth  century,  extensive  works  for  the  extraction 
of  tar,  naptha,  and  volatile  salt  from  coal.  It  lost,  how- 
ever, all  these  sources  of  prosperity,  and  with  them  its 
proper  characteristics  as  a  town  ;  and  it  now  is  an  old- 
world,  sequestered  place,  whose  chief  attractions  are 
its  beautiful  surroundings  and  various  architectural  an- 
tiquities, of  which  the  '  Palace,'  a  house  near  the 
middle  of  the  village,  bearing  dates  1597  and  1611, 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting.  Its  abbey,  dedicated 
to  SS.  ilary,  Andrew,  and  Serf,  was  founded  in 
1217  by  Malcolm,  Earl  of  Fife,  and,  with  the 
lands  belonging  to  it,  was  granted  to  Sir  James 
Colville,  who,  in  1609,  was  created  Lord  Colville  of  Cul- 
ross. The  aisleless  choir,  First  Pointed  in  style, 
remains  of  the  abbey  church,  together  with  a  fine, 
lofty,  and  very  perfect  western  tower,  originally  central, 
of  early  Second  Pointed  character ;  and  the  former,  as 
modernised  about  1S24,  serves  as  the  parish  church,  con- 
taining nearly  700  sittings.  The  rest  of  the  abbey  is  in 
ruins.  A  recess  on  the  N  side  of  the  church  is  the 
burial-place  of  the  Bruce  family,  ami  shows  white 
alabaster  effigies  of  Sir  George  Bruce  {ob.  1625),  his  lady, 
and  their  eight  children,  and  a  niche  for  the  .silver 
casket  in  which  was  enshrined  the  heart  of  Edward, 
Lord  Bruce,  who  fell  in  a  duel  near  Bergen-op-Zoom  iu 


CULROSS 

1613.  Culross  Abbey  House,  in  the  near  vicinity  of  the 
church,  was  built  in  1608  bj'  Edward,  Lord  Bruce  of  Kin- 
loss  ;  and,  bought  from  the  Earl  of  Dundonald  by  Sir 
Robert  Preston,  by  him  was  nearly  demolished,  and  after- 
wards rebuilt  in  1830,  being  now  a  spacious  edifice, 
delightfully  situated,  commanding  an  extensive  prosjiect 
of  the  basin  of  the  Forth,  and  having  in  its  policies  a  noble 
medlar  tree  and  a  Spanish  chestnut,  80  feet  high,  and 
19  J^  in  girth  at  1  foot  from  the  ground.  It  again  belongs 
to  the  Bruces  in  the  person  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin,  who  holds 
in  Perthshire  232  acres,  valued  at  £1871  per  annum. 
(See  Broomhall.  )  The  ancient  parish  church,  |  mile  W 
by  N  of  the  abbej%  was  formally  superseded  by  the  abliey 
church  in  1633,  and  is  now  represented  by  some  ruins 
of  Norman  or  First  Pointed  origin,  with  several  interest- 
ing tombstones.  At  the  E  end  of  the  town  are  vestiges  of 
a  chapel,  built  in  1503  by  Robert  Blackadder,  Archbishop 
of  Glasgow,  and  dedicated  to  St  Mungo  or  Kentigern, 
who  is  commonly  stated  to  have  been  educated  by  St 
Serf  at  the  monastery  of  Culross,  against  which  Skene 
maintains  that  Kentigera  died  in  extreme  old  age  in 
603,  and  that  Servanus  did  not  found  the  church  of 
Culross  till  between  the  years  697  and  706  {Celt.  Scotland, 
ii.  31,  184,  257).  Anyhow  an  Episcopal  church.  Transi- 
tion Norman  in  style,  with  nave,  apse,  N  organ  chamber, 
and  bell-gable,  containing  a  chime  of  three  bells,  was 
dedicated  to  St  Serf  in  1876.  There  are  also  a  Free 
church  and  an  endowed  school,  called  Geddes'  Institu- 
tion, which,  rebuilt  by  the  late  Miss  Davidson  at  a 
cost  of  £1500,  gives  education  to  twenty  boys  and  girls, 
and  possesses  one  free  Edinburgh  bursary.  A  public 
school,  with  accommodation  for  140  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attejidance  of  103,  and  a  grant  of  £92, 
7s.  6d.  To  the  E  of  the  town  are  remains  of  a  hos]iital 
founded  for  six  aged  women  in  1637  by  the  first  Earl 
of  Elgin,  the  recipients  of  whose  charity  now  live  in 
a  modern  building  erected  by  Sir  Robert  Preston. 
Charities  of  considerable  value  were  instituted  also  by 
Dr  Bill,  Sir  Robert  Preston,  and  Miss  Halkerston  of 
Carskerdo.  The  town  has  a  post  office  under  Alloa, 
with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, 2  inns,  a  plain  town-house,  and  a  fair  on  the 
third  Tuesday  of  July.  Erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony 
in  1484,  and  into  a  royal  burgh  in  1588,  it  is  governed 
bj'^  a  provost,  2  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and 
4  councillors  ;  and  unites  ^\-ith  Stiklixg,  Dunfermline, 
Inverkeithing,  and  Queensferry  in  returning  a  member 
to  parliament.  The  parliamentary  constituency  num- 
bered 59  in  1882,  when  the  annual  value  of  real  property 
amounted  to  £1647,  while  the  corporation  revenue  for 
1881  was  £51.  Pop.  (1851)  605, (1861)  517,  (1871)  467, 
(1881)  373.     Houses  (1881)  96  inhabited,  22  vacant. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  of  Blairburn, 
Comrie,  and  Low  Valleyfield,  is  bounded  NW  by  Clack- 
mannan, NE  and  E  by  Saline,  Carnock,  and  Torrybnru 
in  Fife,  S  by  the  Firth  of  Forth,  SAV  and  W  by  Tulli- 
allan.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  4  miles  ;  its 
breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  If  and  3|  miles ; 
and  its  area  is  8949  acres,  of  which  1311^  are  foreshore 
and  54  water.  The  surface  rises  abruptly  from  the  shore 
to  250  feet  above  sea-level  behind  Low  Valleyfield,  and 
undulates  thence,  in  gentle  inequalities,  throughout 
most  of  the  parish,  attaining^  317  feet  near  Mounteclaret 
in  the  N,  but  nowhere  forming  anything  that  deserves 
to  be  called  a  hill.  Bluther  and  Grange  Burns  are  the 
chief  streams.  The  rocks  are  mainly  carboniferous ; 
but,  with  the  exception  of  Blairhall,  the  once  extensive 
collieries  are  now  too  much  exhausted  to  afibrd  a  profit- 
able return.  One  pit  near  Culross  Abbe}'  House  was 
carried  almost  a  mile  beneath  the  Firth,  communicating 
there  by  a  sea-sliaft  with  an  insidated  wharf  for  tiie 
shii)ping  of  its  coal  ;  and  was  reckoned  one  of  the 
greatest  wonders  in  Scotland,  but  was  drowned  by  the 
great  storm  of  Jlarch  1625.  Tradition  relates  that 
James  VI.,  revisiting  his  native  country  in  1617,  and 
(lining  at  the  Abbey  House,  expressed  a  desire  to  see 
this  mine  ;  that  he  was  lirought  by  his  host.  Sir  Gcorgfl 
Bruce,  to  the  said  wharf ;  and  that,  on  seeing  himself 
surrounded  by  the  waves,  he  raised  his  customary  cry  of 

323 


CULROY 

'Treason.'  'Whereon  Sir  George,  pointing  to  an  elegant 
pinnace  moored  at  the  wharf,  offered  him  the  choice  of 
going  ashore  in  it,  or  of  returning  by  the  way  he  came  ; 
and  "the  King,  preferring  the  shortest  way,  was  taken 
directly  ashore,  expressing  much  satisfaction  at  what  he 
had  beheld  (Forsyth's  Beauties  of  Scotland,  ISO.".).  Iron- 
stone occurs  in  thin  seams  between  beds  of  clay  slate, 
in  ililfereut  places,  though  not  plentifully  enough  to 
defray  the  expense  of  working  ;  and  a  bed  of  limestone 
18  feet  thick  is  found  in  one  place  at  an  awkward  inclina- 
tion. Fire-clay  also  occurs,  and  has  been  used  for  pot- 
tery. The  soil,  for  the  most  part  argillaceous,  is  mixed 
in  many  places  with  sand,  and  rests  commonly  on 
masses  of  sandstone  or  shale.  Natives  were  Robert  Pont 
(1529-1606),  churchman  and  senator  of  the  College  of 
Justice;  Henry  Hunter,  D.D.  (1741-1802),  a  distin- 
guished divine  ;  and  Thomas  Cochrane,  tenth  Earl  of 
Dundonald  (1775-1860),  author  of  Autobiograp/iij  of  a 
Seaman.  The  principal  mansions  are  Culross  Abbey, 
Culross  Park,  Valleyfield,  Comrie  Castle,  Blair  Castle, 
Brankston  Grange,  Balgownie  Lodge  (old  but  modern- 
ised), and  DrxiMARLE  Castle,  whose  ancient  predecessor 
was  the  traditional  scene  of  the  murder  of  l^ady  MacdutF 
and  her  children.  Seven  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  5  of  between  £100  and  £500, 
and  ItJ  of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the  presbytery  of  Dun- 
fermline and  synod  of  Fife,  Culross  has  been  a  collegiate 
charge  since  about  1640,  when  the  town  was  at  the 
height  of  its  prosperity  ;  the  stipend  of  each  minister 
is  on  an  average  £200.  Valuation  (1871)  £9328,  4s.  6d., 
(1882)  £6855,  lis.  7d.  Pop.  (1801)  1502,  (1831)  1488, 
(1861)  1423,  (1S71)  1354,  (1881)  1130.— Ord  Sur.,  sh. 
39,  1869.  See  The  Legends  and  Commemorative  Cele- 
bratiois  of  St  Kcntigem  {Edinh.  1872);  the  Rev.  A.  W. 
Hallen's  '  Notes  on  the  Secular  and  Ecclesiastical  Anti- 
quities of  Culross,' in  vol.  xii.  oi  Frocs.  Sac.  Ants.  Scotl. 
(1878);  and  D.  Beveridge's  Culross  and  Tulliallan 
(Edinb.  1882). 

Culroy,  a  hamlet  in  Maybole  parish,  Ayrshire,  3  miles 
N  of  Maybole  town. 

Culsahnond,  a  hamlet  and  a  parish  in  Garioch  district, 
Aberdeenshire.  The  hamlet — a  farm-house,  the  church, 
and  the  manse — stands  at  600  feet  above  sea-level,  near 
the  left  bank  of  the  Ury,  4|  miles  NNE  of  its  post-town 
and  station,  Insch^  this  being  27A  miles  NW  of  Aberdeen. 

Containing  also  Colpy  post-office  hamlet,  and  bounded 
N  by  Forgue,  NE  by  Auchterless,  E  by  Rayne,  S  by 
Oyne,  SW  and  W  by  Insch,  the  parish  has  an  utmost 
length  from  N  to  S  of  5  miles,  a  varying  width  from  E 
to  W  of  If  and  3§  miles,  and  an  area  of  6995  acres, 
of  which  1  is  water.  The  drainage  is  carried  south-south- 
ea-stward  by  the  upper  Ury;  and  the  surface,  sinking  in 
the  S  to  310  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rises  northward 
to  431  feet  at  Little  Ledikin,  521  near  Mellenside,  607 
at  Fallow  Hill,  1078  at  the  wooded  Hill  of  Skares,  and 
1219  at  the  Hill  of  Tillymorgan.  A  fine  blue  slate  was 
quarried  prior  to  1860;  and  a  vein  of  ironstone,  extend- 
ing across  the  parish  from  Rayne  to  Insch,  was  proved, 
by  specimens  sent  to  Carron  works,  to  contain  a  large 
projiortion  of  good  iron.  A  subterranean  moss,  in  some 
parts  more  than  8  feet  deep,  occurs  on  Pulquliitu  farm  ; 
and  a  strong  mineral  spring,  said  to  be  beneficial  in 
scrofulous  complaints,  is  at  Saughen-loan.  The  soil  is 
mainly  a  yellowish  clay  loam,  lighter  and  mixed  with 
fragments  of  slate  on  the  uplands,  and  at  Tillymorgan 
giving  place  to  moss  and  inferior  clay.  Plantations  cover 
a  considerable  area.  Cairns  were  at  one  time  numerous ; 
two  stone  circles  have  left  some  traces  on  Colpy  farm  ; 
two  sculptured  standing -stones  (figured  in  l)r  John 
Stuart's  great  work,  1866)  are  on  the  lands  of  Newton  ; 
and  stone  coffins,  flint  implements,  etc.,  have  been 
from  time  to  time  discovered.  Newton  and  William- 
stun  are  the  principal  mansions ;  and  5  proprietors 
hoM  each  an  annual  value  of  more,  3  of  less,  than 
£100.  Culsalmond  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Garioch 
ami  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  living  is  worth  £220.  The 
parish  church,  an  old  building,  was  the  scene  of  one  of 
tlio.-.e  contests  that  led  to  tlic  Disrupti(m  ;  and  the 
neighbouring  Free  church,  Kariy  Eiiglisii  in  style,  with 
324 


CULTER 

a  tower,  was  erected  in  1866  at  a  cost  of  £2000,  its 
predecessor  from  1843  having  been  a  mere  wooden 
shed,  in  the  'deep  hollow  of  Caden.'  There  are  also 
an  Independent  church  and  Tillymorgan  Episcopal 
chapel  (1851)  ;  whilst  Culsalmond  public  school  (re- 
built 1876)  and  Tillymorgan  Episcopal  school,  witii  re- 
spective accommodation  lor  150  and  64  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  100  and  43,  and  grants 
of  £61,  8s.  and  £33,  13s.  6d.  Valuation  (1881)  £6415, 
16s.  5d.  Pop.  (1801)  730,  (1831)  1138,  (1861)  1165, 
(1871)  896,  (1881)  828.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  86,  1876. 

Culsh.     See  Deer,  New. 

Culter,  a  station,  an  estate,  and  a  rivulet  on  the  SE 
border  of  Aberdeenshire.  The  station  is  on  the  Deeside 
railway,  within  Peterculter  parish,  near  the  influx  of 
Culter  rivulet  to  the  river  Dee,  1%  miles  WSW  of  Aber- 
deen. The  estate  is  mainly  in  Peterculter  parish,  partly 
in  Drumoak,  and  from  the  13th  century  till  1726  be- 
longed to  a  branch  of  the  Cummings.  Culter  House 
here,  1  mile  NE  of  the  station,  is  a  large  old  mansion, 
said  to  have  been  built  by  Sir  Alexander  Gumming,  who, 
in  1695,  was  created  a  Baronet,  and  whose  son,  Sir 
Archibald  (1700-75),  for  a  time  was  ruler  of  the 
Cherokees.  It  now  is  a  seat  of  Rt.  Wni.  Duff,  Esq.  of 
Fetteresso  and  Glassaugh,  who,  born  in  1835,  has  sat 
for  Banfi'shire  since  1861,  and  who  owns  1588  acres  in 
the  shire,  valued  at  £1747  per  annum.  The  rivulet, 
rising  on  the  W  border  of  Cluny  parish,  meanders  10 
miles  eastward,  through  Cluny  and  on  Cluny's  boundaries 
with  Midmar  and  Edit ;  expands  into  Loch  Skene,  on 
the  mutual  boundary  of  Echt  and  Skene  ;  and  proceeds 
thence  4  miles  south-eastward,  partly  on  the  same 
boundary  partly  through  Peterculter,  to  the  Dee.  Its 
lower  reaches,  with  features  of  lake  and  linn,  steep 
banks  and  wooded  cliffs,  bridges  and  mills,  present  a 
series  of  romantic  scenes.     See  Peterculter. 

Culter,  a  village  in  the  upper  ward  and  the  E  of 
Lanarkshire,  and  a  parish  partly  also  in  Peeblesshire. 
The  village  stands  upon  Culter  Water,  2f  miles  SSW  of 
Biggar,  and  Ig  mile  SSE  of  Culter  station  on  the 
Peebles  branch  of  the  Caledonian,  this  lieing  If  mile  W 
by  N  of  Symington  Junction,  and  17^  miles  W  by  S  of 
Peebles.  It  chiefly  consists  of  neat  houses,  embowered 
among  shrubs  and  trees  ;  at  it  are  the  Tmrish  church,  a 
public  school,  and  a  post  office  under  Biggar ;  whilst  a 
Free  church  stands  1  mile  to  the  N. 

The  ]iari.sli  is  bounded  N  by  Biggar  and  Skirling,  E 
by  the  Killjucho  and  Glenholm  portions  of  Broughtou, 
SE  by  Drummelzier,  SW  by  Crawford  and  Lamington, 
and  NW  by  Symington.  In  shape  resembling  a  rude 
triangle  with  southward  apex,  it  has  an  utmost  length 
from  N  by  W  to  S  by  E  of  7|  miles,  an  utmost  breadth 
from  E  to  W  of  3|  miles,  and  an  area  of  11,932^  acres, 
of  which  48o  are  water,  and  1713  belong  to  Peeblesshire, 
being  also,  however,  claimed  for  BiloI'GHTON'.  The 
Clyde  winds  2|  miles  north-north-eastward  along  all 
the  Symington  border  ;  and  its  affluent  Culter  Water, 
formed  by  three  head-streams  in  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  parish,  runs  6|  miles  northward  and  north-west- 
ward, first  through  a  narrow  glen,  where  it  makes  some 
romantic  falls,  and  next  across  a  finely- wooded,  culti- 
vated plain.  The  surface  sinks  near  Culter  station,  at 
the  NW  corner  of  the  parish,  to  665  feet  above  sea- 
level,  thence  rising  eastward  to  1345  feet  on  the  Har- 
tree  Ilills,  and  southward  to  820  near  Cornhill,  745  at 
Highfield,  939  at  Nether  Hangingshaw,  1187  on  Snaip 
Hill,  1596  on  Turkey  Hill,  1880  on  *Scawdmans  Hill, 
2087  on  *King  Bank  Head,  1578  on  Ward  Law,  2454  on 
*Culter  Fell,  1769  on  Woodycleuch  Dod,  1679  on 
Knock  Hill,  1874  on  Snowgill  Hill,  and  2141  on  *Hill- 
shaw  Head,  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits  that 
culminate  on  the  Peeblesshire  border.  The  northern 
district,  including  the  Peeblesshire  section,  comprises  a 
considerable  jiortion  of  the  broad  dingle  extending  from 
the  Clyde  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Symington  eastward 
to  the  lower  reach  of  Biggar  Water  ;  with  its  mansions, 
lawns,  and  groves,  it  presents  an  aspect  more  like  that 
of  a  rich  English  level  than  like  that  of  a  Scottish  hill 
region.     The  southern  district  exhibits  a  striking  con- 


CULTERCULLEN 

trast  to  the  northern,  a  long  range  of  green  hills,  partly 
planted  and  parked,  rising  steeply  from  the  plains  and 
gradually  merging  into  heathy  mountains,  the  '  divide  ' 
between  Clydesdale  and  Tweeddale.  The  rocks  include 
some  Devonian  conglomerate,  but  are  mainly  Silurian  ; 
whilst  the  soil  over  most  of  the  lower  grounds  is  a  sandy 
loam,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  Peeblesshire  section 
inclines  to  clay,  and  on  the  braes  and  hills  is  light  and 
dry.  About  one-third  of  the  area  is  either  regularly  or 
occasionally  in  tillage,  and  upwards  of  400  acres  are 
under  wood.  The  antiquities  include  live  circular 
camps,  two  tumuli,  the  remains  of  Cow  Castle  near  the 
eastern  border,  and,  in  the  Peeblesshire  portion,  the  site 
of  Hartree  Tower.  Culter  Allers  House,  near  the 
village,  a  Scottish  Baronial  edifice  of  1882,  is  the  seat 
of  John  Menzies  Baillie,  Esq.  of  Culter  Allers  (b.  1826  ; 
siic.  1880),  who  owns  4648  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£2010  per  annum  ;  and  other  mansions,  separately 
noticed,  are  Birthwood,  Cornhill,  Culter  Mains,  and  Har- 
tree. In  all,  3  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of 
more,  and  4  of  less,  than  £500.  Culter  is  in  the  i)resby- 
tery  of  Biggar  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  the 
living  is  worth  £290.  The  parish  church,  built  in 
1810,  contains  300  sittings  ;  and  the  Free  church, 
dating  from  1843,  was  restored  in  1874  at  a  cost  ex- 
ceeding £900.  The  public  school,  with  accommodation 
for  89  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  66, 
and  a  grant  of  £64,  lis.  Valuation  (1882)  £8941, 
7s.  6d. ,  of  which  £2141,  14s.  6d.  was  in  Peeblesshire. 
Pop.  (1801)  369,  (1831)  497,  (1861)  665,  (1871)  593, 
(1881)  blL—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  24,  1864. 

CultercuUen,  a  village,  with  a  public  school,  in 
Foveran  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  1|  mile  E  by  S  of  Udny 
station,  and  15  miles  N  by  W  of  Aberdeen,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  office. 

Culter  Mains,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Culter 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  3^  miles  SW  of  Biggar. 

Cultoquhey,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  on  the  W 
border  of  Fowlis-Wester  parish,  Perthshire.  The  man- 
sion stands  24  miles  NE  of  Crietf,  and  is  a  gi'aceful 
edifice  in  the  Tudor  style,  after  designs  by  Smirke. 
The  property  of  the  Maxtones  since  1410  and  earlier, 
the  estate  is  now  held  by  Jas.  Maxtone  Graham,  Esq. 
(b.  1819  ;  sue.  1846),  the  thirteenth  in  unbroken  male 
descent,  who  assumed  the  name  of  Graham  on  succeed- 
ing in  1859  to  the  lauds  of  Redgorton,  and  who  owns 
2519  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £3117  per  annum. 

Cults,  a  parish  of  central  Fife,  containing  to  the  "VV  the 
post-office  village  of  Pitlessie,  4  J  miles  S  W  of  Cupar  and 
2i  E  of  its  station  and  post-town,  Ladybank,  this  being 
28^  miles  N  by  E  of  Edinburgh.  Bounded  N  by  Moni" 
mail  and  Cupar,  E  by  Ceres,  S  by  Kettle,  and  W  by 
Kettle  and  CoUessie,  it  has  an  utmost  length  from  N 
to  S  of  2|  miles,  a  varying  width  from  E  to  W  of  9 
furlongs  and  2|  miles,  and  an  area  of  2925  acres,  of 
■which  95  lie  detached,  and  1  is  water.  The  Eden  winds 
3  miles  north-eastward  along  the  CoUessie  and  Cupar 
borders  and  through  the  interior  ;  where  it  quits  the 
parish  in  the  furthest  N,  the  surface  sinks  to  close  on 
100  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to  698  feet  near 
Brotus  in  the  SW  and  622  at  Walton  Hill,  which  latter, 
however,  culminates  just  within  Ceres.  The  rocks  are 
chiefly  carboniferous  ;  and  sandstone  and  limestone  are 
extensively  worked,  whilst  coal  was  at  one  time  mined. 
The  soil,  in  the  N,  is  a  light  brownish  sand ;  in  the  centre, 
is  chiefly  a  soft  black  loam ;  on  the  sides  and  tops  of  the 
hills,  is  a  strong  fertile  clay.  A  fort  on  the  western 
slope  of  Walton  Hill  is  the  only  antiquity  of  Cults, 
whose  greatest  son  was  Scotland's  greatest  painter.  Sir 
David  Wilkie  (1785-1841),  born  in  the  simple  manse. 
His  father  was  parish  minister,  and  at  the  school  here 
Davie  is  said  to  have  liked  best  '  to  lie  agroufo  on  the 
grun  wi'  his  slate  and  pencil,'  at  the  church  to  have 
sketched  the  portraits  for  'Pitlessie  Fair'  (1804)  and 
the  '  Village  Politicians '  (1806).  Crawford  Piuury  is 
the  chief  mansion,  and  the  Earl  of  Glasgow  is  chief  pro- 
prietor, 3  others  holding  each  an  annual  value  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  1  of  iVom  £50  to  £100,  and  5  of 
from  £20  to  £50.      Giving  off  a  portion  to  Springfield 


CUMBERNAULD 

quoad  sacra  parish.  Cults  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Cupar 
and  synod  of  Fife  ;  the  living  is  worth  £210,  The 
church,  1  mile  ENE  of  Pitlessie,  was  built  in  1793,  and, 
as  enlarged  in  1835,  contains  430  sittings  ;  the  interior 
is  adorned  with  a  noble  piece  of  sculpture  by  Chantrey, 
erected  by  Wilkie  in  memory  of  his  parents.  At 
Pitlessie  also  are  a  U.P.  church  and  Cults  public  school, 
which,  with  accommodation  for  150  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  82,  and  a  grant  of  £64, 
17s.  Valuation  (1882)  £6596,  17s.  8d.  Pop.  (1801) 
699,  (1831)  903,  (1861)  800,  (1871)  767,  (1881)  704.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  40,  1867. 

Cults,  a  hamlet  in  the  Aberdeenshii-e  section  of 
Banchory-Devenick  parish,  near  the  left  bank  of  the 
Dee,  with  a  station  on  the  Deeside  railway,  4  miles 
WSW  of  Aberdeen,  under  which  it  has  a  post  and 
telegraph  office.  At  it  are  a  Free  church  and  an  en- 
dowed school ;  and  near  it  stands  Cults  House,  whose 
owner,  Rt.  Shirra-Gibb,  Esq.  (b.  1847  ;  sue.  1880), 
holds  981  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1669  per 
annum.  Two  stone  coffins,  containing  human  remains, 
were  found  a  little  to  the  N  of  this  mansion  in  1850  ; 
and  three  large  cairns  are  still  on  the  estate. 

Culvain,  a  summit,  3224  feet  high,  in  Kilmallie  parish, 
Inverness-shire,  2^  miles  SSE  of  the  head  of  Loch  Ar- 
chaig. 

Culzean.     See  Colzean. 

Cumbernauld,  a  thriving  town  and  a  parish  in  the 
detached  section  of  Dumbartonshire.  The  town  is 
situated  on  the  high  road  from  Glasgow  to  Edinbiu'gh 
through  Falkirk,  1^  mile  N  of  Cumbernauld  station  on 
the  Caledonian,  and  2  miles  SW  of  Castlecary  station  on 
the  North  British,  this  being  15i  miles  NE  of  Glasgow, 
6i  W  by  S  of  Falkirk,  and  SIJ  W  by  N  of  Edinburgh. 
A  picturesque  old  place,  sheltered  to  E  and  SE  by  the 
grounds  of  Cumbernauld  House,  it  was  created  a  burgh 
of  barony  in  1649,  and  has  a  post  office  under  Glasgow, 
a  branch  of  the  Royal  Bankj  a  local  savings'  bank,  2 
chief  inns,  gas-works,  many  new  handsome  villas,  and  a 
cattle-fair  on  the  second  Thursday  of  May.  The  parish 
church  here  is  an  old  building,  containing  660  sittings  ; 
the  Free  church  dates  from  1826,  having  belonged  to 
the  Original  Secession,  but  has  been  lately  almost  rebuilt ; 
and  there  is  also  a  new  U.P.  church.  Haudloom 
weaving  of  checks  and  other  striped  fabrics  is  still 
carried  on,  but  mining  and  quarrying  are  the  staple 
industry.     Pop.  (1861)  1561,  (1871)  1193,  (1881)  1064. 

The  parish,  contahiing  also  the  village  of  Condohrat, 
was  disjoined  from  Kirkintilloch  in  1649,  under  the 
name  of  Easter  Lenzie.  It  is  bounded  NW  by  Kilsyth, 
NE  by  Denny,  and  E  by  Falkirk,  all  three  in  Stirling- 
shire ;  S  by  New  Iilonkland,  in  Lanarkshire  ;  and  W  by 
Kirkintilloch.  Its  utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is 
7^  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  4  miles ; 
and  its  area  is  11,804  acres,  of  which  168J  are  water. 
Fannyside  Loch,  2g  miles  SE  of  the  town,  is  the  only 
one  that  has  not  been  drained  of  several  lakes  ;  it  is  6| 
furlongs  long  and  from  1  to  2  furlongs  broad.  The 
new-born  Kelvin  traces  3|  miles  of  the  north-western, 
and  Luggie  Water  4|  miles  of  the  southern,  border; 
whilst  the  former  throughout  is  also  closely  followed  by 
4  J  miles  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal.  The  surface  is 
prettily  diversified  with  gentle  acclivities  and  fertile 
vales,  sinking  in  the  AV  to  close  on  200  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  rising  eastward  to  482  feet  at  Croy  Hill,  513 
near  Carrickstone,  528  near  West  Forest,  and  580  near 
Garbet  on  Fannyside  Muir,  which,  yielding  now  nothing 
but  gorse  and  heather,  was,  do^vn  to  a  comparatively 
recent  period,  occupied  by  a  renmant  of  the  ancient 
Caledonian  Forest.  Here,  till  at  least  1571,  the  savage 
white  cattle  still  ran  wild,  since  in  that  year  a  writer 
complains  of  the  havoc  comuutted  by  the  King's  party 
on  the  deer  in  the  forest  of  Cumbernauld  and  its  '  quhit 
ky  and  buUis,  to  the  gryt  destructione  of  polecie  and 
hinder  of  the  commonweil.  For  that  kynd  of  ky  and 
bullis  hes  bein  keipit  this  money  yeiris  in  the  said 
forest ;  and  the  like  was  not  mentenit  in  ony  uther 
partis  of  the  He  of  Albion.'  The  rocks  are  partly  erup- 
tive,  partly   belong   to   the   Carboniferous    Limestone 

o25 


CUMBRAE,  GREAT,  BIG,  OR  MEIKLE 

Bcries.  A  colliery  is  at  Xetherwood  ;  ironstone  has  been 
mined  to  a  snialfextent  by  the  Cairon  Company  ;  and 
limestone,  brick-clay,  sandstone,  and  trap  are  all  of  them 
largely  worked,  the  sandstone  for  building,  the  trap  for 
road-metal,  paving,  and  rough  masonry.  The  soil 
varies  in  quality,  but  is  ehielly  a  deep  clay  of  tolerable 
fertility.  Fully  eleven-sixteenths  of  the  entire  area  are 
under  the  plough ;  woods  may  cover  one-sixteenth  more ; 
and  the  rest  is  pastoral  or  waste.  Antoninus'  AVall, 
ti-aversing  all  the  northern  border,  nearly  in  the  line  of 
the  canal,  has  left  some  scanty  remains  ;  and  a  Roman 
road,  leading  southward  from  Castlecary,  is  partially 
traceable  on  Fannyside  Muir.  On  the  standing-stone 
of  Carrickstone  Bruce  is  said  by  tradition  to  have 
planted  his  standard,  when  marshalling  his  forces  on 
the  eve  of  the  battle  of  Bannockburn  ;  and  pre-Reforma- 
tion  chapels  are  thought  to  have  existed  at  Achenbee, 
Achenkill,  Chapelton,  Kildrum,  Kilmuir,  and  Croy. 
Cumbernauld  House,  standing  amid  an  extensive  park, 
i  mile  ESE  of  the  town,  superseded  an  ancient  castle, 
wliich,  with  its  barony,  passed  about  1306  from  the 
Comyns  to  Sir  Robert  Fleming,  whose  grandson.  Sir 
iMalcolm,  was  lord  of  both  Biggar  and  Cumbernauld  ; 
it  is  now  a  seat  of  John  William  Burns,  Esq.  of  Kilma- 
hew  (b.  1837  ;  sue.  1871),  owner  of  1670  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £3394  per  annum.  Other  mansions 
are  Dullatur  House,  Nether  Croy,  and  Greenfaulds  ;  and 
4  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  16  of  between  £100  and  £500,  12  of  from  £50 
to  £100,  and  35  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Taking  in  quoad 
sacra  a  small  portion  of  Falkirk  parish,  Cumbernauld  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Glasgow  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and 
Ayr  ;  the  living  is  worth  £380.  Three  public  schools — 
Cumbernauld,  Condorrat,  and  Arns— and  Drumglass 
Church  school,  with  respective  accommodation  for  350, 
229,  50,  and  195  children,  had  (18S0)  an  average  at- 
tendance of  225,  98,  30,  and  171,  and  grants  of  £230, 
6s.  6d.,  £90,  3s.,  £41,  5s.,  and  £1G2,  8s.  6d.  Valuation 
(1860)  £15,204,  (1882)  £25,098,  15s.  Pop.  (1801)  1795, 
(1831)  3080,  (1861)  3513,  (1871)  3602,  (1881)  4270.— 
Old.  Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

Cumbrae,  Great,  Big,  or  Meikle,  an  island  of  Bute- 
shire in  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  2^  miles  E  of  Bute  at  the 
narrowest,  and  1|  mile  WSW  of  Largs  in  Ayrshire. 
Resembling  a  pointed  tooth  in  outline,  with  Farland 
and  Portachur  Points  for  fangs,  and  between  them  the 
town  of  Millport  on  isleted  Millport  Bay,  it  has  an 
utmost  length  of  3|  miles  from  NNE  to  SSW,  viz.,  from 
Tomont  End  to  Portachur  Point ;  an  utmost  width, 
from  E  to  W,  of  2  miles  ;  a  circumference  of  10^  miles  ; 
and  an  area  of  3120^  acres.  A  road  has  been  lately 
formed  right  round  the  island,  whose  immediate  sea- 
board is  a  low,  flat  beach,  backed  generally  by  steepish 
slopes,  and,  to  the  SE,  by  bolder  but  verdure-clad  cliffs 
that  rise  to  302  feet  within  3  furlongs  of  the  shore,  and 
present  in  the  Lion  Rock  a  quasi-miniature  of  Arthur's 
Seat.  The  interior  is  hilly,  culminating  at  417  feet 
towards  the  centre  of  the  island,  to  the  W  of  three  little 
loclis,  one  of  which  sends  off  a  rivulet  southward  to 
ilillport  Bay.  The  principal  rock  is  Old  Red  sandstone, 
disru2)ted  and  overlaid  by  various  traps.  The  sand- 
stone is  similar  to  that  of  the  mainlancl,  from  which  it 
appears  to  have  been  severed  by  sea  erosion  ;  the  traps 
are  chiefly  greenstone,  and  in  the  form  of  dykes  have 
strangely  altered  the  sandstone  strata,  fusing  and  recon- 
.solidating  them  into  a  dark  quartz -like  substance. 
Many  of  the  dykes,  having  better  withstood  the  de- 
uudating  influence  of  air  and  water,  stand  out  boldly 
from  the  sandstone  ;  and  two  especially,  to  the  SE,  look 
like  Cyclojjean  walls,  100  and  205  feet  long,  and  40  and 
75  feet  high.  These  are  deemed,  in  the  island  folklore, 
to  be  remains  of  a  huge  bridge,  reared  by  witchcraft 
ami  devilry  to  link  Cumbrae  to  the  Ayrshire  coast.  The 
soil  is  varied.  On  the  higher  parts  of  the  island  it  is 
ligiit,  gravelly,  and  thin,  bedded  on  moss,  and  covered 
witii  heath  ;  in  some  of  the  valleys  is  a  fertile  loam,  and 
produces  excellent  crops  ;  along  the  E  coast  is  light  and 
sandy  ;  and  in  the  S  abounds  in  marl.  Draining,  sea- 
weed manuring,  and  liming  have  effected  great  improve- 
826 


CUMLODDEN 

ments  ;  and  wheat,  early  potatoes,  and  turnips  are  very 
extensively  gro\\"n.  Most  of  the  farms  carry  .stocks 
of  from  20  to  40  dairy  cows.  The  climate  is  both 
healthy  and  pleasant,  less  moist  than  that  of  Arran 
or  the  mainland.  Included  once  in  the  Hebrides, 
Cumbrae  was  held  by  the  Norsemen ;  and,  after 
its  cession  to  Scotland,  belonged  for  some  time  to 
the  Stewarts,  who  later  mounted  the  throne.  A  cairn 
on  the  NE  coast  and  the  remains  of  Billikellet  are 
the  only  antiquities,  as  no  traces  are  left  of  the  camp 
that  Haco  is  said  to  have  formed  on  the  eve  of  the  battle 
of  Largs.  In  1609  we  find  the  captain  of  Dumbarton 
Castle  complaining  that  '  Robert  Huntar  of  Huntarston 
and  Thomas  Boyd,  provost  of  Irwyn,  had  gone  to  the 
Isle  of  Comra,  and  tane  away  all  the  hawks  thereon,' 
which  hawks,  it  appears,  were  a  famous  breed  belonging 
to  the  king.  The  Garrison  is  the  only  mansion,  and 
its  owner,  the  Earl  of  Gla.sgow,  divides  the  island 
with  the  Marquis  of  Bute  ;  but  7  feuars  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  between  £100  and  £200,  30  of  from  £50 
to  £100,  and  59  of  from  £20  to  £50.  By  itself  Great 
Cumbrae  is  a  parish  in  the  presbytery  of  Greenock  and 
s}'nod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  the  living  is  worth  £160. 
Places  of  worship  are  noticed  under  Millport  ;  and  a 
public  school,  with  accommodation  for  300  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  185,  and  a  grant  of 
£156,  14s.  Valuation  (1882)  £16,910.  Pop.  (1801) 
506, (1831)  912, (1861)  1236,  (1871)  1613,  (1881)  1856. 
—Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  21,  1870.  See  D.  Landsborough's 
Excursioiis  to  Arran  and  the  tivo  Cumbraes  (Edinb.  1851), 
and  Arch.  M'Neilage,  '  On  the  Agi-iculture  of  Buteshire ' 
in  Trans.  Highl.  and  Ag.  Soc,  1881. 

Cumbrae,  Little,  an  island  of  Buteshire,*  1^  mile 
SSW  of  Millport,  and  about  the  same  distance  E  of  the 
southern  extremity  of  Bute  and  W  of  the  Ayrshire 
coast.  Triangular  in  shape,  with  base  to  SW  and  apex 
to  NNE,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  If 
mile  and  7f  furlongs,  whilst  its  area  is  estimated  at  700 
acres.  The  surface  rises,  in  a  series  of  terraces,  to  409 
feet  above  sea-level  toward  the  middle  of  the  island, 
and,  with  exception  of  a  few  patches  of  potatoes  and 
ordinary  garden  produce,  is  all  wild  moorland,  burrowed 
by  rabbits,  and  grazed  by  scattered  sheep.  The  geolo- 
gical formation  is  Secondary  trap,  resting  on  a  sub- 
stratum of  Old  Red  sandstone.  A  circular  lighthouse, 
30  feet  high,  the  earliest  but  one  in  Scotland,  was  built 
on  the  highest  point  about  1750,  and  commands  a  mag- 
nificent panoramic  view  ;  but  has  been  superseded  by 
another  lighthouse  on  the  western  coast,  which  was 
built  in  1826,  raises  its  lantern  106  feet  above  high 
water,  and  shows  a  fixed  light,  visible  at  a  distance  of 
15  miles.  A  strong  old  tower,  on  an  islet  oft"  the  E 
coast,  believed  to  have  been  erected  as  a  watch-post 
against  the  Scandinavian  rovers,  was  surrounded  by  a 
rampart  and  a  fosse,  and  accessible  only  by  a  draw- 
bridge. It  belonged  to  the  Eglinton  family,  who  still  are 
proprietors  of  the  island ;  gave  refuge,  in  times  of  trouble, 
to  that  family's  friends  ;  was  surprised  and  burned  by 
the  troops  of  Oliver  Cromwell ;  and  now  is  roofless  and 
dilapidated.  On  the  NE  slope  of  the  hill  are  the  tomb 
and  ruined  chapel  of  St  Vey.  Valuation  (1882)  £308. 
Pop.  (IS.",!)  17,  (1861)  20,  (1871)  11,  (1881)  23. 

Cuminestown,  a  straggling  village  in  Monqnhitter 
parish,  N  Aberdeenshire,  6  miles  ESE  of  Turrift',  under 
which  it  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order  and  savings' 
bank  departments.  Founded  in  1763  by  Cumine  of 
Auchry,  it  contains  a  branch  of  the  Aberdeen  Town  and 
County  Bank  and  the  plain  Episcopal  chapel  of  St  Luke 
(1844  ;  130  sittings),  whilst  adjoining  the  parish  church 
and  Free  church  of  Monqnhitter.  A  fair  is  held  at  it  on 
the  Thursday  after  27  AprU.  Pop.  (1841)  477,  (1861) 
459,(1871)572,(1881)565. 

Cumlodden,  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Glassary  and 
Inverary  jiarishcs,  Argyllshire,  on  the  NW  side  of  Loch 
Fyne,  its  church  (1841 ;  300  sittings)  standing  1  mile 
WSW  of  Furnace  and  8  miles  SW  of  its  post-town, 
Inverary.     Constituted  in  1853,  it  is  in  the  presbytery 

*  Little  Cumbrae  is  assigned  in  the  census  to  West  Kilbride,  but 
to  Ardrossan  in  the  Ordnance  maps  and  valuation  rollM. 


CUMLODEN 

of  Inverarj'  and  synod  of  Argyll ;  the  minister's  stipend 
is  £120.  Two  public  schools,  Cunilodden  and  Furnace, 
wdth  respective  accommodation  for  78  and  110  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  48  and  78,  and 
grants  of  £23,  10s.  "2d.  and  £78,  6s.  Pop.  of  q.  s. 
parish  (1871)  826,  (1881)  837  ;  of  registration  district  of 
Cumloddcn  and  Minard  (1881)  1142. 

Cumloden,  a  summer  residence  of  the  Earl  of  Gal- 
loway in  Minnigatf  parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  pictur- 
esquely seated  upon  Penkill  Water,  2  miles  NE  of 
Newton-Stewart. 

Cummertrees,  a  village  and  a  coast  parish  of  Annandale, 
Dumfriesshire.  The  village  stands,  f  mile  inland,  on 
Pow  Water,  near  Cummertrees  station  on  the  Glasgow 
and  South- Western  railway,  llf  miles  ESE  of  Dumfries, 
and  3J  W  of  Annan,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  of  Powfoot, 
and  comprising,  since  1609,  the  ancient  piarish  or  chapelry 
of  Trailtrow,  is  bounded  N  by  St  ]\lungo  and  Hoddam,  E 
by  Annan,  S  by  the  Sol  way  Firth,  and  W  by  Ruthwell 
and  Dalton.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  o\  miles ; 
its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  2^  and  4g 
miles  ;  and  its  area  is  11,747^  acres,  of  which  2206|  are 
foreshore  and  75^  water.  The  river  Annan  winds  2^ 
miles  E  by  S  along  all  the  northern  boundary  ;  and  Pow 
Water,  entering  from  Ruthwell,  flows  through  the 
interior  south-eastward  to  the  Firth,  which  here  at  high 
water  has  a  breadth  of  4  to  6  miles,  at  low  of  only  3  to  7 
fui'longs.  At  flow  of  tide,  its  waste  of  level  sand  is 
swept  by  the  Solway's  celebrated  '  bore,'  which,  rushing 
upwards  at  the  speed  of  8  or  10  miles  an  hour,  roars 
with  a  tumult  heard  overfall  the  parish,  and  sometimes  12 
or  15  miles  further  northward.  The  seaboard,  3g  miles 
long,  is  low  and  sandy,  in  the  E  alone  attaining  to  65 
feet  above  sea-level ;  but,  however  featureless  by  nature, 
it  has  its  interest  as  one  of  the  scenes  in  Scott's  novel  of 
Redgauntlct.  Inland  the  ground  rises  slowly  northward 
to  87  feet  near  Hurkledale,  160  at  Muirhouse,  183  at 
Upper  Mains,  242  near  Norwood,  and  350  on  Repentance 
Hill,  from  which  again  it  descends  rather  rapidly  to 
less  than  100  feet  along  the  Annan.  The  rocks  are 
mainly  Devonian.  Limestone,  30  feet  thick  and  contain- 
ing 96  per  cent,  of  carbonate  of  lime,  is  extensively 
worked  at  Kelhead  ;  and  sandstone  has  been  got  from 
two  quarries.  The  soil  is  sandy  along  the  coast  ;  in 
some  of  the  central  parts  is  a  fertile  loam  incumbent 
on  limestone  ;  and  northward  is  loam  incumbent  on 
sandstone,  whilst  elsewhere  it  ranges  from  a  thin  wet 
cla}''  incumbent  on  hard  till,  and  requiring  much  manure 
and  labour,  to  reclaimed  bog,  drained  and  improved  at 
great  expense.  About  6200  acres  are  regularly  or 
occasionally  in  tillage,  and  1300  under  wood.  In  a 
field  called  Bruce's  Acres,  on  the  farm  of  Broom, 
Robert  Bruce  is  said  to  have  sustained  a  severe  repulse 
from  the  English.  Hoddam  Castle  and  the  Tower  of 
Repentance,  the  chief  antiquities,  are  separately  noticed, 
as  also  are  the  mansions  of  Kinmount  and  Murray- 
thwaite.  The  Marquis  of  Queensberry  is  much  the  largest 
proprietor,  5  holding  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  1  of  between  £100  and  £500,  and  2  of  from 
£20  to  £50.  Giving  off  a  small  portion  to  Bridekirk 
quoad  sacra  parish,  Cummertrees  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Annan  and  synod  of  Dumfries  ;  the  living  is  worth 
£200.  The  church,  which  was  founded  by  Robert 
Bruce  has  been  repeatedly  rebuilt  and  enlarged,  and 
now  contains  450  sittings.  Two  public  schools,  Cum- 
mertrees and  Trailtrow,  with  respective  accomm  odation 
for  130  and  44  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  86  and  32,  and  grants  of  £69,  lis.  and  £39, 10s. 
Valuation  (1882)  £9607,  13s.  5d.  Pop.  of  civil  parish, 
(1801)  1633,  (1831)  1407,  (1861)  1232,  (1871)  1116, 
(1881)  1092;  oi  quoad  sacra  parish  (1871) 1072, (1881) 
1068.— Orr/.  Sur.,  shs.  6,  10,  1863-64. 

Cumming's  Camp.     See  Bourtie. 

Cuinming's  Castle.     See  Dalsw^inton. 

Cummingstown,  a  straggling  coast  village  in  Duffus 
parish,  Elginshire,  1 J  mile  E  of  Burghead.  Pop.  (1851) 
155,  (1871)  2SS,  (1881)244. 

Cumminstown.     See  Cuminestown. 


CUMNOCK,  NEW 

Cumnock  (Celt,  cuwar,  'meeting,'  and  oich,  'water'), 
a  town  of  Ayrshire,  chiefly  in  Old  Cumnock  parish,  but 
partly  also  in  Auchinleck.  It  lies  in  a  sheltered  hollow, 
362  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  left  bank  of  winding 
Lugar  Water,  joined  here  by  Glaisnock  Burn,  5  furlongs 
WSW  of  one  station  on  the  main  line  of  the  Glasgow 
and  South-Western,  and  ^  mile  N  by  W  of  another  on 
its  Ayr  and  Cumnock  section,  by  rail  being  15f  miles 
SE  of  Kilmarnock,  49i  S  of  Glasgow  (39;^  via  Barrhead), 
33  SW  of  Carstairs,  6"!^  SW  by  W  of  Edinburgh,  42| 
NW  of  Dumfries,  and  17:^  E  by  S  of  Ayr.  With  central 
square,  three  spacious  streets,  and  a  number  of  narrow 
lanes,  it  presents  a  pjleasant,  well-to-do  appearance,  and 
has  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and 
telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scot- 
land, the  Clydesdale  Bank,  and  the  Royal  Bank,  15  in- 
surance agencies,  3  hotels,  a  gas  company,  an  athenaium 
(1792),  a  fine  cemetery,  and  2  Saturday  papers — 
the  Cumnock  Express  (1866)  and  the  Liberal  Cum- 
nock Ncics  (1880).  Thursday  is  market-day,  and 
fairs  are  held  on  the  Thursday  in  February  after  Old 
Candlemas  (cattle  and  horses),  the  Thursday  after  6 
March  (race  and  hiring),  the  Wednesday  after  6  June 
(cattle),  the  Wednesday  after  13  July  (cattle  and  hiring), 
and  the  Wednesday  after  27  October  (fat  stock).  The 
snuff'-box  manufacture,  so  famous  50  years  since,  is 
wholly  extinct,  transferred  to  Mauchline  ;  and  though 
there  are  two  establishments  for  the  weaving  of  tweeds 
and  other  woollen  stutts,  a  pottery,  and  two  dairy  and 
agricultural  machine  works,  mining  is  now  the  staple 
industry,  the  neighbourhood  abounding  in  coal  and 
blackband  ironstone.  The  central  square  was  formerly 
the  churchyard,  and  the  present  churchyard  was  once  the 
place  of  execution  ;  it  contains  the  graves  of  two  Cove- 
nanting worthies,  shot  here  in  1685,  and  also  the  ashes 
of  the  Prophet  Peden  (1626-86),  which,  buried  in  Auchin- 
leck kirkyard,  were  forty  days  after  lifted  by  dragoons, 
and  reinterred  at  the  foot  of  the  Cumnock  gallows.  The 
parish  church,  rebuilt  in  1867,  is  a  good  Second  Pointed 
structure,  with  1100  sittings,  stained-glass  windows,  a 
turret  clock,  and  a  fine  organ,  the  last  erected  in  1881. 
There  are  also  a  Free  church,  a  U.P.  church  with  900 
sittings,  a  new  Congregational  church  (1882)  on  the 
Auchinleck  side  of  the  Lugar,  and  a  handsome  Roman 
Catholic  church  (1881-82).  The  public  school,  too, 
built  since  the  passing  of  the  Education  Act,  is  a  very 
elegant  and  commodious  edifice,  among  the  finest  in  the 
South  of  Scotland.  Having  adopted  the  Lindsay  Act 
in  1868,  Cumnock  is  governed  by  a  senior  magistrate 
and  8  other  police  commissioners.  Its  municipal  con- 
stituency numbered  472  in  1882,  when  the  burgh  valua- 
tion amounted  to  £8043.  Pop.  (1801)  1798,  (1851)  2395, 
(1861)  2316,  (1871)  2903,  (1881)  3334,  of  whom  93  were 
in  Auchinleck  parish. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  14,  1863. 

Cumnock,  New,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  Kyle  district, 
E  Ayrshire.  Nearly  adjoining  Afton-Bridgend,  Path- 
head,  and  Mansfield,  the  village  stands,  600  feet  above 
sea-level,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nith,  at  the  influx  of 
Afton  Water,  and  has  a  station  on  the  Glasgow  and 
South-Western  railway,  b\  miles  SE  of  Cumnock,  and 
21|  SE  of  Kilmarnock.  At  it  are  a  post  office,  with 
money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments, 
branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland  and  the  Royal  Bank, 
9  insurance  agencies,  3  chief  inns,  and  a  parish  library 
(1828)  ;  a  fair  is  held  here  on  18  May. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  or  hamlets  of 
Afton-Bridgend,  Pathhead,  Mansfield,  Castle,  Connell 
Park,  Craigbank,  and  Dalleagles,  formed  till  1650  part 
of  Old  Cuninoek.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Old  Cumnock 
and  Auchinleck  ;  E  by  Kirkconnel  and  Sanquhar,  in 
Dumfriesshire  ;  SE  and  S  by  Dairy  and  Carspliairn,  in 
Kirkcudbrightshire  ;  SW  by  Dalmellington ;  and  NW 
by  Ochiltree.  Its  greatest  length  is  15  miles  from  ENE 
to  WSW,  viz.,  from  the  Dumfriesshire  border  near 
Glengaber  Hill,  to  the  Dalmellington  boundary  near 
Benbain  ;  its  breadth  varies  between  3|  furlongs  and 
10|  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  48,357^  acres,  of  which  261J 
are  water.  The  Nith,  rising  in  the  SW  corner,  winds 
\b'i  miles  northward,   north-eastward,    and    eastward 

3?7 


CUMNOCK,  OLD 

througli  the  interior,  its  left  bank  bcinj:;  closely  followed, 
from  the  village  downwards,  by  the  Glasgow  and  South- 
western railway  ;  of  its  numerous  feeders  here,  the 
principal  is  Aftox  Water,  flowing  9  miles  northward 
from  tlie  southern  extremity  of  the  parish.  The  drain- 
age goes  thus  mainly  to  the  Solway,  but  partly  also  to 
tiie  Firth  of  Clyde,  as  Black  and  Guelt  "Waters,  sub- 
allluents  of  the  river  Ayr,  trace  most  of  the  Ochiltree 
and  Auchinleck  boundaries.  North-westward  of  the 
village  are  three  little  lakes  in  a  row,  Meikle  Creocli 
Loch  (3  X  2f  furl.),  Little  Creoch  Loch  (3  x  1 J  furl. ),  and 
Klack  Loch  (2  x  1  furl. ).  The  surface  sinking  along  the 
shallow  and  sluggish  Nitli  to  less  than  600  feet  above 
sea-level,  is  everywhere  hilly,  mountainous  in  the  S. 
Chief  elevations  to  the  left  of  the  Nith  from  its  source 
are  Prickeny  Hill  (1G76  feet).  Black  Hill  (1076),  Cars- 
gailocb  Hill  (1176),  CarnivanHill  (1061),  High  Polquheys 
(1027),  *Craigdully  Hill  (1352),  Cuiisanx-one  Hill 
(1547),  Clocklowie  Hill  (1441),  and  *Niviston  Hill 
(1507),  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  cul- 
minate on  the  confines  of  the  parish  ;  to  the  right  rise 
Enoch  Hill  (1S65),  Benty  Cowan  (1560),  Milray  Hill 
(1724),  Ashmark  Hill  (1218),  Auchincally  Hill  (1662), 
Struthers  Brae  (1778),  Wedder  Hill  (1961)  Dalhanna  Hill 
(1177),  Blackwood  Hill  (898),  Hare  Hill  or  the  Knipe 
(1950),  Bl.^ckckaig  Hill  (2229),  *Blacklarg  Hill  (2231), 
*Alwhat  (2063),  and  *Albang  (2100).  The  rocks  in  the  S 
are  chiefly  Siluiian,  in  the  N  carboniferous.  Limestone 
and  sandstone,  the  latter  coarse-grained  and  yellowish 
white  in  hue,  have  both  been  worked  in  several  quarries  ; 
and  coal,  partly  cannel,  partly  sj^lint,  is  mined  at  Afton, 
Bank,  Knockshinnock,  Lanemark,  Pathhead,  and  South 
Boig.  Galena  has  been  got  in  considerable  quantities  on 
the  Afton  estate  ;  and  ironstone  occurs  plentifully  in 
bands  and  balls.  The  soil  of  the  Silurian  tracts  is 
chiefly  of  a  gravelly  nature,  and  that  of  the  Carboni- 
ferous tracts  is  generally  argillaceous.  Fully  6000 
acres  have  been  reclaimed  from  a  waste  or  almost  un- 
profitable condition  since  1818  ;  and  now  about  9300 
acres  are  either  regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  whilst 
some  270  are  under  wood.  An  ancient  tumulus  on 
Polquhaise  farm  was  found,  on  removal,  to  contain  a 
sarcophagus  and  fragments  of  human  bones.  One 
baronial  fortalice  stood  near  the  village,  another  at 
Blackci'aig,  and  a  third  near  the  source  of  the  Nith  ;  but 
all  have  disappeared  and  left  no  vestige.  In  March  1882, 
at  Craigs,  near  the  foot  of  Blaekcraig,  in  lonely  Glen 
Alton,  a  shepherd  found  40  gold  and  over  140  silver 
coins  of  James  V.  ilansfield  House,  Lochside  House, 
Craigdarroch,  and  Bank  House  are  the  principal  man- 
sions ;  and  10  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of 
i;500  and  upAvards,  5  of  between  £100  and  £500,  3  of 
from  £50  to  £100,  and  20  of  from  £20  to  £50.  New 
Cumnock  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  the  living  is  worth  £250.  The 
parish  church,  between  Afton-Bridgend  and  New  Cum- 
nock villages,  was  built  in  1832,  and  is  a  handsome 
edifice,  containing  1000  sittings.  There  are  also  three 
Free  churches — New  Cumnock,  Afton,  and  Bank  ;  and 
tliree  public  schools — Bank,  Dalleagles,  and  New  Cum- 
nock— with  respective  accommodation  ibr  160,  85,  and 
450  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  182, 
75,  and  295,  and  grants  of  £127,  lis.,  £30,  18s.  4d., 
and  £249,  18s.  Valuation  (1860)  £17,496,  (1882) 
£34,592,  13s.  6d.,  including  £2934  for  railway.  Pop. 
(1801)  1381,  (1831)  2184,  (1861)  2891,  (1871)  3434, 
(1881)  Z78\. —Ord.  Sitr.,  shs.  15,  14,  1864-63. 

Cumnock,  Old,  a  {)arish  in  the  E  of  Kyle  district,  Ayr- 
shire. It  contains  the  station  and  most  of  the  town  of 
Cumnock,  besidesasmall  partof  Lr(!AulK(iN-wouKs,and 
formed  one  narish  with  New  Cumnock  till  1650,  when, 
being  curtailed  by  the  separation  of  New  Cumnock,  it 
changed  its  name  from  Cunmock  to  Old  Cumnock.  It 
is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  Auchinleck,  E  and  S  by  New 
Cumnock,  and  W  by  Ochiltree.  Its  utmost  length,  from 
E  to  \V,  is  9^  miles  ;  its  Ijreadth,  from  N  to  S,  varies 
between  9  furlongs  and  4^  miles;  and  its  area  isl4,20!i^ 
acres,  of  which  69.^  are  water.  All  the  Auchinleck 
border  is  traced,  first,  Viy  Guelt  Water,  running  2S  miles 
328 


CUNNINGHAME 

north-westward  to  Glenraore  Water  ;  next,  by  Glen- 
more  Water,  running  4g  miles  west-north-westward  to 
form  Lugar  Water  ;  lastly,  by  the  Lugar  itself,  wind- 
ing 7^  miles  west-by-southward  :  and  a  number  of  burns 
flow  northward  through  the  interior  to  these  three 
streams.  In  the  NW,  near  Pennyfadzeoch,  where  the 
Lugar  quits  the  parish,  the  surface  sinks  to  close  on  300 
feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to  693  near  Whitehill, 
1198  at  Hogh  Mount,  764  near  Sliield,  1081  at  Avisyard 
Hill,  1034  at  Airds  Hill,  and  1352  at  CraigdoUyeart 
Hill  in  the  SE.  The  scenery,  tame  in  places,  in  most 
presents  a  pleasing,  finely  cultivated  aspect,  and  along 
the  Lugar  is  often  highly  picturesque.  The  roc;ks  are 
chiefly  carboniferous.  Limestone  and  sandstone,  both  of 
excellent  quality,  are  worked  ;  and  bituminous  and 
anthracitic  coal  is  mined.  The  soil  by  the  Liigar  is 
frequently  a  fine  alluvium,  and  elsewhere  is  mostly  of  a 
clayey  nature,  incumbent  on  strong  till  ;  but  on  the 
higher  lands  is  mossy.  About  2000  acres  are  moorland, 
500  or  so  are  planted,  and  the  rest  are  all  under  the 
plough.  The  chief  antiquities  are  ruins  of  Ferringzean 
Castle  within  the  policies  of  Dumfries  House,  traces  of 
Boreland  Castle  on  the  S  side  of  the  parish,  vestiges  of 
a  small  pre-Reformation  chapel  on  the  farm  of  Chapel- 
house,  and  graves  or  memorials  of  several  martyrs  of  the 
Solemn  League  and  Covenant.  Hugh  Logan,  '  the 
Laird  of  Logan  '  and  celebrated  wit  of  Ayrshire,  resided 
on  Logan  estaite  ;  and  James  Taylor,  the  associate  of 
Miller  of  Dalswinton  in  the  invention  of  steam-navigation, 
superintended  the  mines  on  that  of  Dumfries  House 
about  the  close  of  the  18th  century.  ]\Iansions,  all 
separately  noticed,  are  Dumfries  House,  Garrallan,  Glais- 
nock,  and  Logan  ;  and  6  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  7  of  between  £100  and  £500, 
21  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  28  of  Irom  £20  to  £50. 
Old  Cumnock  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  the  living  is  worth  £315,  or  £365 
with  voluntary  supplement  from  heritors.  Garrallan 
public,  Old  Cumnock  public,  and  Old  Cumnock  Roman 
Catholic  school,  with  respective  accommodation  for  100, 
600,  and  216  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance 
of  93,  574,  and  140  children,  and  grants  of  £75,  3s., 
£471,  9s.,  and  £128,  3s.  6d.  Valuation  (1860)  £14,424, 
(1882)  £27,225,  12s.  9d.,  including  £4899  for  railways. 
Pop. (1801) 1991, (1831)  2763,  (1861)  3721, (1871)  4041, 
(1881)  4860.— 6')-d  Sur.,  shs.  14,  15,  1863-64. 

Cumrue,  Loch.     See  Kirkmichael,  Dumfriesshire. 

Cumston.     See  Compstone. 

Cunnigar,  an  artificial  mound  in  Midcalder  parish, 
Edinburghshire,  between  Alidcalder  village  and  the 
river  Almond.  On  it  witches  are  said  to  have  been 
burned  in  bygone  days. 

Cunninghame,  a  poor-law  combination  and  a  terri- 
torial district  in  Ayrshire.  The  combination  includes 
only  part  of  the  district,  yet  extends  southward  into 
Kyle,  comprisingthe  parishes  of  Ardrossan,  Beith,  Dairy, 
Dreghorn,  Dundonald,  Dunlop,  Galston,  Irvine,  Kil- 
birnie.  West  Kilbride,  Kilmarnock,  Kilwinning,  Loudon, 
Stevenston,  Stewartou,  and  Symington.  The  poorhouse 
contains  accommodation  for  279  inmates.  Pop.  (1871) 
102,015,  (1881)  106,014.— The  territorial  district  is  the 
northern  one  of  the  three  districts  into  which  Ayrshire  is 
divided.  It  comprises  the  parishes  of  Ardrossan,  Beith, 
Dairy,  Dreghorn,  part  of  Dunlop,  Fcnwick,  Irvine,  Kil- 
birnie.  West  Kilbride,  Kilmarnock,  Kilmaurs,  Kilwin- 
ning, Largs,  Loudon,  Stevenston,  and  Stewarton  ;  and 
contains  the  towns  and  villages  of  Ardrossan,  Saltcoats, 
Beith,  Dairy,  Dunlop,  Fenwick,  Irvine,  KilViirnie,  Glen- 
garnock.  West  Kilbride,  Kilmarnock,  Kilmaurs,  Cross- 
house,  Kilwinning,  Largs,  Fairlie,  Newmilns,  Darvel, 
Stevenston,  and  Stewarton.  It  is  bounded  N  and  NE 
by  Renfrewshire,  E  by  Lanarkshire,  S  by  the  river 
Irvine,  which  separates  it  from  Kyle,  SW  and  W  by 
the  Firth  of  Clyde.  Its  greatest  length  from  N  W  to  SE 
is  29i  miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth  in  the  oj)posite 
direction  12;i'  miles.  The  surface  is  jdeasantly  diversi- 
lii'd  witli  liill  and  dale,  and  rises,  in  the  N  W,  into  con- 
siderable heights,  but  cannot  be  said  to  have  any 
mountains.     The  chief  streams,  besides  the  Irvine,  are 


CUNNINGHAMHEAD 

the  Rye,  the  Caaf,  the  Garnock,  the  Dusk,  the  Lugton, 
the  Auiiick,  the  Fenwick,  and  the  Craufurdlarul  or 
Kilmarnock.  The  only  considerable  sheet  of  fresh 
water  is  Kilbirnie  Loch.  Trap  rocks  constitute  most  of 
the  hills,  but  carboniferous  rocks  prevail  elsewhere,  and 
are  rich  in  sandstone,  limestone,  ironstone,  and  coal. 
Extensive  iron-works  are  at  Dairy  and  Glengarnock,  and 
very  productive  coal  mines  are  in  various  places.  The 
dairy  husbandry  rose  to  high  perfection  in  Dunlop, 
Beith,  and  Stewarton  in  the  latter  part  of  last  century,  and 
it  has  ever  since  maintained  a  high  character  thi'ougliout 
most  of  the  district.  The  ancient  family  of  De  Morville, 
the  constables  of  Scotland,  were  in  the  r2th  and  13th  cen- 
turies proprietors  of  almost  all  the  land,  and  they  are 
supposed  to  have  had  their  residence  at  either  Glengar- 
nock or  Southannan.  Many  other  families  subsequently 
became  proprietors  ;  and  not  a  few  of  them,  particularly 
those  of  Eglinton,  Gleneairn,  and  Loudon,  took  a  lead- 
ing part  in  the  affairs  of  the  kingdom  during  its  most 
agitated  times.  The  district  appears  to  have  been  at 
one  time  under  the  control  of  the  corporation  of  Irvine, 
and,  for  a  long  period  prior  to  the  abolition  of  feudal 
jurisdictions,  it  formed  a  bailiwick  under  the  Earls 
of  Eglinton.  Valuation  (1882)  £434,248,  including 
£38,512  for  railways.  Pop.  (1831)  63,453,  (1861)  95,593, 
(1881)  105,231.  See  Ayrshire  and  Cunninghame, 
Topographised  by  Timothy  Pont,  A.M.,  1604-8,  %oith 
Continuations  and  illustrative  Notices  by  the  late  James 
Dobie  of  Crummock  (1876). 

Cunninghamhead,  a  mansion  in  Dreghorn  parish, 
Ayrshire,  near  Cunnmghamhead  station  on  the  Glasgow 
and  South-Western  railway,  this  being  4  miles  WNW 
of  Kilmarnock.  Its  owner,  Richard  Kerr,  Esq.  (b. 
1845  ;  sue.  1853),  holds  560  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £1440  per  annum. 

Cunninghar.     See  Tillicoultry. 

Cunning  or  Cunnan,  a  holm  of  about  50  acres  at  the 
right  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  river  Doon,  in  Ayrshii-e. 
It  formerly  lay  on  the  left  side  of  the  river,  but  came  to 
be  on  the  right  side  in  consequence  of  the  river  altering 
its  course  ;  and,  though  now  in  Kyle  district,  it  belongs 
to  the  Carrick  parish  of  Maybole. 

Cunningsburgh.      See    Conningsburgh    and    DuN- 

ROSSNESS. 

Cunnoquhie,  an  estate,  with  a  handsome  modern 
mansion,  in  Monimail  parish,  Fife,  1  mile  NE  of  Moni- 
mail  church,  and  4^  miles  W  by  N  of  Cupar.  Its 
owner,  Mrs  W.  Pitcairn,  holds  561  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £937  per  annum. 

Cunzierton,  a  hill  (1100  feet)  in  Oxnam  parish,  Rox- 
burghshire, 6^  miles  ESE  of  Jedburgh.  It  is  crowned 
witb  a  large,  double-trenched,  ancient  Caledonian  camp ; 
and  is  engirt,  at  about  150  feet  from  the  summit,  with 
a  defensive  mound. 

Cupar,  the  north-western  of  the  four  divisions  of  Fife, 
consisting  chiefly  of  the  upper  and  middle  basin  of  the 
Eden,  and  of  the  parts  of  the  seaboard  of  the  Firth  of 
Tay  from  the  boundary  with  Perthshire  to  a  point  a  few 
hundred  yards  W  of  the  original  Tay  Bridge,  and  nearly 
opposite  Dundee.  It  comprises  the  parishes  of  Abdie, 
Auchtermuchty,  Balmerino,  Ceres,  Collessie,  Creich, 
Cults,  Cupar,  Dairsie,  Dunbog,  Falkland,  Flisk,  Kettle, 
KUmany,  Logie,  Monimail,  Moonzie,  Newburgh,  and 
Strathmiglo,  with  parts  of  Abernethy  and  Arngask.  Its 
length  north-eastward  is  about  17^  miles ;  and  its 
breadth  is  about  10  miles.     See  Fife. 

Cupar  or  Cupar-Fife,  a  town  and  a  parish  of  central 
Fife.  A  royal  and  parliamentary  burgh,  the  political 
capital  of  the  shire,  and  a  seat  of  considerable  trade,  the 
town  stands  100  feet  above  sea-level,  amid  undulating  and 
richly-wooded  environs,  mainly  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Eden.  By  road  it  is  12g  miles  S  of  Dundee,  10  W  by  S 
of  St  Andrews,  and  30  NNE  of  Edinburgh  ;  whilst  by 
the  Edinburgh,  Perth,  and  Dundee  section  of  the  North 
British  it  is  5^  miles  NE  of  Ladybank  Junction,  25^ 
ESE  of  Perth,  4"4  ENE  of  Stirling,  13;|  NNE  of  Thornton 
Junction,  29  NE  of  Dunfermline,  \i^  NNE  of  Edin- 
burgh,  llf  SSW  of  Tayport,  and  16^  S  of  Dundee  via 
the  new  Tay  Bridge.      It   had  a  royal  charter  from 


CUPAR 

David  II.  in  1363,  but  prior  to  that  appears  to  have 
been  a  royal  burgh,  and  has  made  some  figure  in  history. 
A  castle  which  stood  on  the  eminence  now  called  School 
Hill,  but  which  has  utterly  disapjjearod,  was  the  seat  of 
the  Macdulfs,  Earls  of  Fife,  who  first  are  heard  of  in  the 
reign  of  David  I.  (1124-53).  Almost  a  hundred  years 
earlier,  according  to  Leighton's  Fife  Illustrated,  '  when 
the  castle  of  Cupar  was  the  residence  of  Macduif,  the 
lord  or  Maormore  of  Fife,  it  was  the  scene  of  that  horrid 
tragedy,  the  murder  of  his  wife  and  children  by  Macbeth, 
of  which  Shakespeare  has  made  such  a  beautiful  use  in 
his  Y>l-a,y  oi  Macbeth.'  But  Skene  has  shown  that  the 
whole  well-known  tale  of  Macduff,  '  Thane  of  Fife  ' — a 
title  unknown  to  history — appears  first  in  the  Chronicle 
of  Fordun  and  his  interpolator  Bower,  i.e.,  belongs  to 
the  14th  and  15th  centuries  {Celtic  Scotland,  iii.  303-306, 
1880).  The  court  of  the  Stewartry  of  Fife  was  lield 
at  this  castle  till  the  forfeiture  of  Albany,  Earl  of  Fife, 
in  1425,  when  it  was  transferred  to  Falkland.  The 
proverbial  expression,  '  He  that  will  to  Cupar  maun  to 
Cupar,'  alludes  to  the  times  when  Cupar  was  the  seat 
of  the  ancient  courts  of  justice  for  Fife,  and  signifies 
much  the  same  as  '  A  wilful  man  must  have  his  own 
way.'  Theatrical  representations,  called  Mysteries  or 
Moralities,  professing  to  serve  purposes  such  as  now  are 
served  by  at  once  the  pulpit  and  the  press,  were  ex- 
hibited on  the  northern  slopes  of  the  School  Hill,  then 
called  the  Playfield,  for  many  ages  till  the  Reformation 
— among  them  Sir  David  Lindsay's  Satyre  of  the  Thrie 
Estaitis  (1535),  that  scathing  attack  on  the  priests, 
which  has  been  termed  '  by  far  the  greatest  interlude  ir 
English  literature.'  Whether  Sir  David  was  born  in 
Monimail  at  the  Mount  or  in  East  Lothian  is  a  moot 
question,  but  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  Mount  was  his 
property  and  frequent  residence,  and  that  he  sat  for  Cupar 
in  the  parliaments  of  1542  and  1543.  Many  of  the 
kings  and  princes  of  Scotland,  including  nearly  all  the 
Jameses,  Mary  of  Guise,  Queen  Maiy,  and  Charles  II. , 
visited  the  town,  and  were  entertained  by  its  magistrates, 
Charles  getting  '  some  desert  to  his  foure  houres  in  the 
Tolbooth,  and  a  musicke  song  or  two  from  Mr  Andro 
Andersone,  scholemaster  ther  for  the  tyme,'  6  July  1650. 
John  Knox,  in  1560,  preached  here  to  the  Lords  of  the 
Congregation  ;  and  a  noted  conference  was  held  in  the 
previous  year,  on  Tarvit  Hill,  \%  mile  to  the  S,  between 
the  Congregation  and  Mary  of  Guise,  the  Queen  Regent. 
The  Rev.  William  Scot,  who  wrote  the  Jpologetical 
Narration  of  the  State  of  the  Kirk  of  Scotland,  was 
minister  of  Cupar  from  1595  till  1642,  and  at  his  own 
expense  erected  the  spire  of  the  parish  church,  which 
still  exists.  A  handsome  mural  tombstone  to  his  memory 
is  still  to  be  seen  in  the  churchyard,  though  its  Latin 
inscription  is  quite  illegible.  In  the  churchyard,  too, 
is  a  plain  upright  stone  inscribed  : — '  Here  lies  interred 
the  heads  of  Laur.  Hay  and  Andrew  Pitulloch,  who 
sulFered  martyrdom  at  Edinburgh,  July  13th,  1681,  for 
adhering  to  the  Word  of  God  and  Scotland's  covenanted 
work  of  reformation  ;  and  also  one  of  the  hands  of  David 
Hackston  of  Rathillet,  who  was  most  cruelly  murdered 
at  Edinburgh,  July  30th,  1680,  for  the  same  cause.' 
Which  Hackston  was  one  of  the  twelve  murderers  of 
Archbishop  Sharp  on  Magus  Muir  in  1679.  At  Cupar, 
in  1718,  the  Archbishop's  descendant.  Sir  James  Sharp, 
Lord  George  Murray,  and  Sir  David  Threipland  of 
Fiugask  were  arraigned  for  their  share  in  the  '15,  but 
the  proceedings  against  them  proved  abortive.  John, 
Lord  Campbell  (1781-1861),  Chancellor  of  England,  was 
born  in  a  house  still  standing  in  the  Crossgate,  his 
father  being  parish  minister ;  and  the  Life  of  him 
by  his  daughter,  published  in  1880,  contains  much  of 
interest  relating  to  Cupar.  Another  native  was  the 
portrait  and  landscape  painter,  Charles  Lees,  R.S.A. 
(1800-80). 

Old  Cupar  lay  all  on  the  left  or  N  side  of  the  Eden, 
and  had  six  gates  or  ports  at  thorouglifares  which  mostly 
retain  their  ancient  names.  The  West  Port  stood  at 
the  W  end  of  lionnygate  ;  the  Lady  Port  towards  the 
northern  extremity  of  Lady  Wynd ;  the  East  Port 
almost  opposite  the   Town  llall  ;    the  Bridge  Port  at 

329 


Seal  of  Cupar. 


CUPAR 

a  point  where  the  Eden  now  is  crossed  by  the  South 
Bridge  leading  to  the  North  British  station  ;  the  Mill 
Port  at  Millgate  ;  and  the  Kirkgate  Port  at  the  W  end 
of  Kirkgate.  The  present  town  comprises  three  principal 
streets,  several  lanes  and  alleys,  some  suburbs  on  the  N 
and  E  and  AV,  and  a  considerable  suburb  on  the  S  side 
of  the  Eden ;  containing  many  new  houses,  it  presents 
a  well-built,  cleanly,  thri\ing  "appearance.  It  has  been 
lighted  with  gas  since  1830  ;  and  in  December  1876  a 
new  water-supply  was  introduced  from  two  storing  ponds 
at  Clatto  and  Skelpie,  about  4^  miles  SSW  of  the  town. 

The  Town  Hall 
stands  at  the  junc- 
tion of  St  Catherine 
Street  and  Cross- 
gate,  and  is  a  plain, 
neat  'structure,  sur- 
mounted by  a  cupola 
and  belfry.  The 
County  Buildings, 
in  St  Catherine 
Street,  were  en- 
larged in  1836  and 
again  in  1872,  pre- 
sent a  neat  though 
plain  facade,  and 
contain  the  county 
hall,  the  sheriff 
court  -  room,  and 
offices  for  the  public 
clerks.  In  the  county  hall  are  a  fine  portrait  of  John,  Earl 
of  Hopetoun,  by  Sir  Henry  Raeburn ;  a  very  valuable  por- 
trait of  Lord  kellie  in  his  official  robes,  by  Sir  David 
Wilkie  ;  portraits  of  George  II.,  George  III.,  and  Queen 
Charlotte,  by  Ramsay,  son  of  the  'Gentle  Shepherd;' 
besides  a  copy  of  a  good  portrait  of  Lord  Elgin,  Viceroy 
of  India,  and  marble  busts  of  his  lordship  and  of  the 
late  J.  H.  E.  TVemyss  of  Wemyss  and  Torrie,  M.P. 
The  old  county  prison,  on  the  S  side  of  the  Eden,  now 
serves  as  the  Fife  Artillery  Militia  storehouse.  The  new 
prisonoccupiesaconspicuous  site  a  little  to  the  NE  of  the 
town,  and  built,  at  a  cost  of  over  £3000,  on  a  greatly 
improved  plan,  is  now  under  Government  management, 
aud  has  accommodation  for  33  male  and  13  female 
prisoners.  Opposite  the  TowTi  Hall  stood  an  ancient 
cross,  which,  comprising  an  octagonal  base  and  a  round 
pillar  surmounted  by  a  unicorn,  was  taken  down  in 
1817.  Its  pillar  was  presented,  at  hir  own  request, 
to  Colonel  Wemyss  of  Wemyss  Hall,  and  by  him  was 
re-erected  on  the  lower  northern  slopes  of  Tarvit  Hill 
(to  the  S  of  the  town),  at  the  very  spot  on  which,  it  is 
believed,  the  treaty  between  Mary  of  Guise  and  the 
Lords  of  the  Congregation  was  subscribed.  The  Corn 
Exchange,  built  in  1862  at  a  cost  of  £4000,  is  an  edifice 
in  the  Gothic  style,  with  a  spire  136  feet  high  ;  it 
contains  46  stalls  for  market  business,  and  was  designed 
to  serve  also  as  a  music  and  lecture  hall,  but  has  not 
good  acoustic  qualities.  The  railway  station  stands  on 
the  S  side  of  the  Eden,  and  is  handsome  and  com- 
modious ;  near  it,  on  the  Kirkcaldy  road,  is  a  statue  by 
Mr  Ho\yie  of  Edinburgh,  of  the  Disruption  worthy, 
David  Maitland  Makgill  Crichton,  Esq.  of  Rankcilour 
(1801-51).  One  piece  of  ground  for  a  public  park  was 
gifte<l  to  the  town  in  1871  by  Provost  Hood,  another, 
adjoining,  in  1872,  by  Provost  Nicholson.  The  Lady 
Burn,  intervening,  was  then  arched  over,  and  the  two 
gifts,  with  the  original  cart-haugh,  now  form  a  continuous 
park,  comprising  some  15  acres  of  green  meadow,  and 
torming  one  of  the  most  valualde  amenities  of  the  burgh. 
The  original  ])arish  church  stood  3  furlongs  NW 
of  the  town,  but  within  the  old  walls,  on  a  rising 
ground  near  Springfield  House  ;  became  a  ruin  in  the 
early  part  of  the  15th  century  ;  and  was  completely 
obliterated  in  1759.  Its  successor,  in  Kirkgate  Street, 
built  in  1415,  is  said  to  have  been  a  beautiful  Gothic 
structure  of  poli.shed  .sandstone,  measuring  133  feet 
in  length  by  54  in  width  ;  but  it,  too,  fell  into  decay, 
and  was  taken  down  in  1785.  The  present  church, 
then  erected,  partly  on  the  same  site,  is  a  plain  unattrac- 
830 


CUPAR 

tive  building,  containing  1300  sittings.  The  church  of 
1415  had  a  tower,  to  which  the  spire  already  mentioned 
was  added  by  Mr  Scot  in  the  beginning  of  the  17th 
century  ;  and  this  tower  and  spire  are  separated  from 
the  present  church  by  an  intervening  vestry  or  session- 
house,  into  which  part  of  one  of  the  aisles  of  the 
former  church  was  converted.  The  ancient  church  of 
St  ^lichacl,  on  the  S  side  of  the  Eden,  crowned  a 
a  small  conical  eminence,  St  Michael's  Hill,  now  mostly 
covered  with  the  plantation  that  shelters  the  NE  en- 
trance to  Tarvit  House,  the  seat  of  James  Home  Rigg, 
Esq.  of  DoAvnfield.  The  present  church  of  St  ]\Iichael 
stands  in  the  town,  was  erected  in  1857  at  a  cost  of 
£1800,  and,  altered  and  improved  in  1871,  contains  810 
sittings.  With  a  legacy  of  £7500,  bequeathed  by  the 
late  Sir  David  Baxter  of  Kilmaron,  a  tine  new  Free 
church,  mixed  Gothic  in  style,  Mith  tower  and  spire  135 
feet  high,  was  built  (1876-77)  on  the  N  side  of  the  Bonny- 
gate.  Other  places  of  worship  are  Bonnygate  U.  P.  church 
^1866 ;  a  handsome  structure),  Boston  U.  P.  church  (1850), 
a  Baptist  chapel,  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel  (1879  ;  the 
upper  flat  of  a  dwelling-house),  and  St  James's  Epis- 
copal church.  The  last  stands  on  or  very  near  the  site 
of  St  Mary's  Dominican  friary,  which,  founded  by  one 
of  the  Earls  of  Fife,  was  by  James  V.  annexed  to  St 
Andrews,  and  the  last  remnant  of  which,  a  part  of 
its  church,  consisting  of  fine  sandstone  masonry, 
was  removed  at  the  forming  of  St  Catherine  Street, 
now  containing  the  Episcopal  church.  This,  as  rebuilt 
about  1870,  is  a  neat  Gothic  structure  of  white  freestone, 
with  nave  and  one  side  aisle,  and  with  a  new  organ, 
erected  in  1876,  that  far  surpasses  any  other  in  the 
county.  Two  burgh  schools,  dating  back  to  the  reign 
of  Charles  I.,  were  in  1823  superseded  by  an  academy, 
which  in  turn  gave  place,  in  1831,  to  a  Madras  academy, 
founded  and  endowed  b}'  the  late  Dr  Andrew  Bell. 
New  buildings  were  then  erected,  but  the  old  ones 
also  were  retained  ;  and  the  whole  may  be  described  as 
sufficiently  good  and  commodious,  though  the  playground 
is  somewhat  small,  extended  about  1865,  but  since 
curtailed  by  the  erection  of  additional  class-rooms  and 
sheds  for  shelter  of  the  pupils.  In  the  middle  of  the 
original  playground  there  stood  till  about  1860  an 
old  one-story  building,  occupied  as  a  sewing  school 
at  one  end,  and  at  the  other  as  a  class-room  for 
pupils  whose  fees  were  provided  by  the  parochial  board  or 
other  local  charity.  This  was  superseded  by  the  erec- 
tion in  Kirkgate  of  a  modern  suite  of  class-rooms,  which 
in  ISSl  were  greatly  enlarged,  mostly  out  of  accumula- 
tions of  an  annual  sum  of  £40  bequeathed  by  the  late 
Alexander  Bogie  of  Balass  and  Newmill  '  for  the 
education  of  poor  children  '  in  Cupar  parish.  This 
Kirkgate  school  and  the  academy  are  both  under  the 
management  of  Dr  Bell's  trustees  (the  lord-lieutenant 
of  the  county  and  Cupar  parish  ministers,  provost, 
and  dean  of  the  guildry),  in  whom  is  vested  the  estate 
of  Egmore  in  Galloway,  which  in  1881  yielded  £746 
towards  the  expenses  of  the  institution.  The  upper 
school  of  the  Madras  Academy  gives  instruction  in 
English,  classical  and  modern  languages,  mathematics, 
drawing,  etc. ,  to  200  pupils  ;  whilst  its  lower  school 
and  South  Side  or  Kirkgate  school,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  288  and  450  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  296  and  211,  and  grants  of 
£246,  9s.  and  £153,  6s.  The  Baxter  Institute,  at  West 
Port,  for  the  education  of  young  ladies,  was  built  and 
endowed  in  1871  by  the  late  Sir  David  Piaxter.  The 
Duncan  Institute  (1870),  in  Crossgate,  founded  for  the 
working  classes  of  Cupar,  Dairsie,  and  Kilconquhar  l)y  the 
late  Miss  Duncan  of  Edcngrove,  is  a  handsome  edifice  in 
the  Scotch  baronial  style,  with  a  spire  114  feet  high  ; 
and  contains  2  reading-rooms,  a  library,  a  recreation 
room,  a  lecture  hall,  a  musoum,  and  a  billiard  room. 
A  handsome  and  commodious  Parish  Sabbath  School 
Hall,  lately  erected  at  a  cost  of  over  £2000,  contains  a 
memorial  window  to  its  founder,  the  late  John  Pitcairn, 
Esq.  of  Pitcullo.  Other  institutions  are  a  local  asso- 
ciation of  the  Educational  Institute  of  Scotland,  2 
amateur  musical  associations,  a  young  men's  Christian 


CUPAR 

association,  an  Established  Church  3'oung  men's  mutual 
improvement  society,  a  floral  and  horticultural  society, 
chess,  ciarliug,  golf,  cricket,  bowling,  and  athletic  games' 
clubs,  4  masonic  lodges,  a  property  investment  company, 
2  friendly  societies,  a  temperance  society,  and  Good 
Templars'  and  Foresters'  lodges. 

The  town  has  a  head  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  railway  telegraph  depart- 
ments, offices  of  the  Royal,  National,  Commercial, 
Clydesdale,  and  British  Linen  Co.'s  banks,  a  national 
security  savings'  bank,  23  insui-ance  agencies,  5  hotels, 
and  3  weekly  newspapers — the  Thursday  Liberal  Fife 
Herald  (1822),  the  Thurstlay  Conservative  Fifeshire 
Journal  (1833),  and  the  Saturday  Fife  Neics  (1870). 
A  weekly  corn  market  is  held  on  Tuesday  ;  a  horse 
and  cattle  market  on  the  first,  and  an  auction  mart 
for  cattle  on  the  first  and  third,  Tuesdays  of  every 
month  ;  fairs  and  feeing  markets  on  the  first  Tuesday 
of  August  and  either  on  11th  November  or  the  fol- 
lowing Tuesday.  Large  trade  is  done  in  the  selling  and 
grinding  of  corn  ;  and  other  industries  are  brewing, 
malting,  dyeing,  tanning,  flax-spinning,  and  the  weaving 
of  all  kinds  of  linens ;  whilst  much  business  accrues 
from  the  town's  position  and  character  as  the  political 
capital  of  the  county.  It  was  distinguished,  too,  at 
one  time  for  the  production  of  beautiful  specimens  of 
typography  and  the  publication  of  many  useful  books, 
Cupar  being  then  the  seat  of  publication  for  St  Andrews 
University.  The  earliest  extant  charter  constituting 
Cupar  a  royal  burgh  is  David  II. 's  of  1363.  The  burgh 
is  governed  by  a  provost,  3  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a 
treasurer,  and  12  councillors,  who  also  act  as  police 
commissioners  ;  and  it  unites  with  St  Andrews,  Crail, 
Kilrenny,  the  Anstruthers,  and  Pittenweem  in  sending 
a  member  to  parliament.  A  guildry  exists  apart  from 
the  dean  of  guild  court,  a  shadowy  relic  of  the  old  times 
of  monopoly,  that  lingers  on  chiefly  or  solely  because 
its  president  is  ex  officio  a  trustee  of  the  Madras  academy. 
Five  incorporated  trades — hammermen,  wrights,  weavers, 
tailors,  and  fleshers — also  prolong  a  formal  existence  from 
the  past.  The  municipal  constituency  numbered  725 
and  the  parliamentary  733  in  1882,  when  the  annual 
value  of  real  property  within  the  burgh  amounted  to 
£20,830,  10s.  4d.  (£15,178  in  1871),  whilst  the  corpora- 
tion revenue  for  1881  was  £193.  Pop.  of  parliamentary 
burgh  (1851)  5605,  (1861)  5029,  (1871)  5105,  (1881) 
5010.     Houses  (1881)  1118. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  of  Brighton, 
Springfield,  and  Gladney,  comprises  the  ancient  parish 
of  St  Michael-Tarvit,  annexed  in  1618.  It  is  bounded 
N  by  Kilmany  and  Dairsie,  E  by  Dairsie  and  Kemback, 
S  by  Ceres  and  Cults,  W  by  Monimail,  and  NW  by 
Moonzie.  Its  greatest  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  3g  miles  ; 
its  greatest  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is  3^  miles ; 
and  its  area  is  5737  acres,  of  which  IJ  are  water. 
The  river  Eden  winds  4|  miles  north-eastward  and  east- 
north-eastward  along  the  Ceres  border  and  through  tlie 
interior ;  it  originally  traced  all  the  boundary  between 
Cupar  proper  and  St  Michael-Tarvit,  but,  in  conse- 
quence of  an  artificial  straightening  of  its  course  at 
the  town,  has  now  a  small  portion  of  St  Michael's 
en  its  N  bank.  Lady  Burn,  coming  in  from  Moni- 
mail, and  receiving  an  affluent  from  the  confines  of 
Dairsie,  drains  most  of  the  northern  district,  and  falls 
into  the  Eden  at  the  E  end  of  the  town.  The  sur- 
face is  beautifully  diversified  by  undulations  or  rising- 
grounds,  and  makes  a  rich  display  of  culture  and  wood. 
In  the  extreme  E  the  Howe  of  Fife  or  Stratheden 
declines  to  less  than  80  feet  above  sea-level,  thence 
rising  to  313  feet  at  Hawklaw  and  400  at  Kilmaron 
Hill  on  the  left,  and  to  600  at  Tarvit  Hill  on  the 
right,  side  of  the  Eden.  A  ridgy  mound  of  fresh-water 
gravel,  commencing  at  the  School  Hill,  the  site  of  the 
ancient  castle  of  Cupar,  strikes  northward  up  the  flank 
of  Lady  Burn,  and  runs  in  a  serpentine  direction  till  it 
culminates  in  a  sort  of  peak — the  Mote  or  Moat  Hill, 
traditionally  said  to  have  been  the  meeting-place  of 
councils  of  war  and  courts  of  justice  under  tlie  '  Thanes 
of  Fife.'      Sandstone  conglomerate  prevails  along  the 


CURLING  HALL 

Lady  Burn,  and  elsewhere  white  sandstone  of  excellent 
building  quality  ;  whilst  trap  rocks,  chiefly  greenstone 
and  clinkstone,  form  most  of  the  rising-grounds.  The 
sandstone  is  worked  in  four  quarries,  the  greenstone  in 
two.  The  soil,  in  the  N  and  the  E,  is  chiefly  a  friable 
loam  on  a  gravelly  subsoil ;  in  the  S  and  the  W,  is 
more  inclined  to  sand  ;  but,  almost  everywhere,  has 
been  highly  improved,  and  produces  the  finest  crops. 
The  mansions  are  Kilmaron,  Tarvit,  Springfield,  Wemjss 
Hall,  Dalgairn  (formerly  Dalyell  Lodge),  Hilton,  Cairnie, 
Pitbladdo,  Prestonhall,  Foxton,  Ferrybank,  Belmore, 
Bellfield,  Bonville,  Blalowan,  and  Westfield,  and  most 
of  them  are  separately  noticed.  Six  proprietors  hold 
each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  28  of  between 
£100  and  £500,  43  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  93  of  from 
£20  to  £50.  Cupar  is  the  seat  of  a  presbytery  in  the 
synod  of  Fife  ;  and  it  includes  the  greater  part  of  the 
quoad  sacra  parish  of  Spkingfield.  The  charge  is 
collegiate,  the  two  ministers  officiating  alternately  in 
the  parish  church  and  St  Michaers,'and  the  living  of  the 
first  charge  being  worth  £448,  of  the  second  £411. 
An  ancient  chapel  stood  on  the  lands  of  Kilmaron. 
Brighton  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  67 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  37,  and  a 
grant  of  £26,  4s.  Valuation  (1866)  £25,280,  6s.  5d., 
(1882)  £36,480,  8s.  iA.,plus  £1680  for  railway.  Pop. 
(1801)  4463,  (1831)  6473,  (1861)  6750,  (1871)  7102, 
(1881)  nOi.—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  48,  40,  1868-67. 

The  presbytery  of  Cupar  comprehends  the  quoad  civilia 
parishes  of  Abdie,  Auchtermuchty,  Balmerino,  Ceres, 
CoUessie,  Creich,  Cults,  Cupar,  Dairsie,  Dunbog,  Falk- 
land, Flisk,  Kettle,  Kilmany,  Logic,  Monimail,  Moonzie, 
Newburgh,  and  Strathmiglo,  and  the  quoad  sacra 
parishes  of  Freuchie,  Ladybank,  and  Springfield.  Pop. 
(1871)  30,679,  (1881)  26,693,  of  whom  7507  were  com- 
municants of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878. — The  Free 
Church  also  has  a  presbytery  of  Cupar,  M-ith  churches 
at  Newburgh,  Auchtermuchty,  Ceres,  CoUessie,  Cupar, 
Dairsie,  Falkland,  Flisk,  Kettle,  Logic,  Monimail,  and 
Strathmiglo,  which  together  had  2307  communicants  in 
1881. — Lastly  the  United  Presbyterian  Synod  has  a  pres- 
bytery of  Cupar,  with  2  churches  in  Auchtermuchty,  2 
in  Ceres,  2  in  Cupar,  and  6  in  respectively  Freuchie, 
Kettle,  Lathones,  Pitlessie,  Rathillet,  and  St  Andrews, 
the  12  having  2746  members  in  1880. 

Cupar-Angus.     See  Coupar-Angus. 

Cupar-Grange.     See  Coupar-Grange. 

Cuparmuir,  a  village  in  Cupar  parish,  Fife,  If  mile 
W  of  Cupar  town.  It  consists  of  a  few  scattered  cot- 
tages, with  a  tile-work  and  a  sandstone  quarry. 

Cupinshay.    See  Copenshay. 

Cur,  a  stream  of  Strachur  parish,  Cowal,  Argyllshire, 
formed  by  two  head-streams  at  an  altitude  of  380  feet, 
and  running  6f  miles  south-westward  and  south-east- 
ward to  the  head  of  Loch  Eck.  Its  course,  for  the 
first  2  miles,  is  rough  and  rapid,  and  forms  several  fine 
cascades  ;  but  lower  down  becomes  smoother,  and  makes 
a  number  of  beautiful  turns. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  37,  1876. 

Curate's  Steps,  a  small  pass  at  the  side  of  the  river 
Ayr,  near  Sorn  Castle,  in  Sorn  parish,  Ayi'shire.  It 
got  its  name  from  a  tradition  that  an  obnoxious  Epis- 
copalian minister  fled  by  it  from  his  enraged  flock,  in 
the  times  of  forced  Episcopacy  prior  to  1688. 

Curate's  Well,  a  copious  intermittent  spring  on  the 
glebe  of  Dunsyre,  in  Dunsyro  parish,  Lanarkshire.  It 
issues  from  two  circular  patches  of  soft  sand,  engirt  with 
very  hard  clay  and  gravel ;  and  at  intervals  of  five  or  ten 
minutes  it  bubbles  up  as  if  emitting  air. 

Curgarff.     See  Cougarf. 

Curgie,  a  small  bay  in  Kirkmaiden  parish,  Wigtown- 
shiri',  on  the  W  side  of  Luce  bay,  3  miles  N  of  the  Mull 
of  Galloway. 

Curlee  or  Caerlee.     See  Innerleithen. 

Curling  Hall,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Largs 
parish,  Ayrshire,  near  tlic  shore,  a  little  S  of  the  town. 
It  includes  part  of  the  battlefield  of  Lakgs,  and  contains 
a  memorial  of  the  battle,  in  the  form  of  a  sculptured 
stone,  with  an  inscribed  copper  plate  affixed  to  it  by  Dr 
John  Cairnie  in  1823. 

831 


CURE 

Curr,  a  hill  (1849  feet)  in  llorehattle  parish,  Rox- 
burghshire, oi  miles  E  by  S  of  Morebattle  village,  and 
^  mile  from  the  English  Border. 

Curreath,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion,  in  Dun- 
donald  parish,  Ayrshire,  3  miles  ENE  of  Troon. 

Ciirrie,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  W  central  Edinburgh- 
shire. The  village,  a  pleasant  little  pkce,  stands  on  the 
steep  left  bank  of  the  Water  of  Leith.  here  spanned  by 
a  14th  century  bridge,  6  miles  SW  of  Edinburgh,  having 
one  station  (Curriehill)  on  the  main  line  of  the  Cale- 
donian, and  another  (Currie)  on  its  Balerno  loop  ;  at  it 
is  a  post  office,  \vith  money  order,  savings'  bank,  insur- 
ance, and  telegraph  departments.  Pop.  (1861)  345,  (1871) 
329,  (1881)  255. 

The  parish  containing  also  the  villages  of  Balerno 
and  Hermiston,  is  bounded  N  by  Corstorphine,  E  by 
Corstorphine  and  Colinton,  SE  by  Penicuik  and  the 
Listonshiels  section  of  Kirkliston,  SW  by  Midcalder, 
W  by  Kirknew'ton,  and  NW  by  Ratho.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  NNE  to  SSW,  is  8^  miles  ;  its  breadth 
varies  between  4^  furlongs  and  4^  miles ;  and  its  area  is 
11,236  acres,  of  which  132 J  are  water.  The  Water  of 
Leitii,  coming  in  from  the  uplands  of  Midcalder,  winds 
1\  mile  north-north-eastward  along  the  Kirknewton  bor- 
der, next  6  miles  east-north-eastward  across  the  middle 
of  the  parish,  receiving  by  the  way  Dean,  Cock,  and 
BAVEL.4.W  Burns,  and  other  still  smaller  tributaries. 
Near  the  Colinton  and  Penicuik  boundaries  lie  Clubbie- 
dean,  Harelaw,  and  Threipmuir  reservoirs,  supplying 
the  Edixbuugii  waterworks  ;  and  the  Union  Canal  runs 
2|  miles  through  the  northern  interior  in  the  \dcinity  of 
Hermiston.  The  surface,  in  the  N  forming  part  of  the 
Corstorphine  plain,  has  a  general  southerly  rise  to  the 
Pentland  Hills  from  less  than  200  feet  above  sea-level  to 
800  on  Warlaw  Hill,  1250  near  Craigenterry,  and  800  at 
East  Rig.  The  rocks  belong  mainly  to  the  Calciferous 
Limestone  series,  traversed  at  Ravelrig  by  a  mass  of 
diorite  ;  whilst  just  to  the  SE  of  Threipmuir  reservoir  is 
one  of  three  separate  localities  among  the  Pentlands, 
where  rocks  of  Ujiper  Silurian  age  are  so  surrounded  and 
covered  unconformably  by  the  Lower  Old  Red  sandstone, 
that  their  relations  to  the  Lower  Silurian  series  can  no- 
where be  ascertained.  Excellent  9:indstone  abounds 
along  the  left  bank  of  the  Water  of  Leith,  especially  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Balerno,  and  has  been  largely 
(juarried  ;  limestone  of  inferior  quality  has  been  worked 
ou  the  Malleny  estate ;  and  a  German,  one  Joachim  Gonel, 
proposed  in  1683  to  open  a  copper-mine  near  East  Mill, 
but  the  scheme  would  seem  to  have  fallen  to  the  ground. 
The  soil  of  the  uplands  is  moorish  ;  but  that  of  the  low 
tracts  is  rich  and  highly  cultivated,  the  rental  of  one  or 
two  farms  here  having  increased  700  per  cent,  within 
the  last  150  years.  Dairy-farming  and  sheep-farming 
are  also  carried  on  ;  and  within  the  parish  are  2  large 
paper-mills  and  2  snuff  manufactories.  Sibbald  and 
other  antiquaries  identified  Currie  with  'Coria,'  the 
cluef  seat  of  the  Damnonii  in  the  2d  century,  a.d., 
which  Skene,  however,  places  at  Carstairs  ;  among  its 
antiquities  are  a  supposed  Roman  station  on  Ravelrig 
Hill  and  the  ruins  of  Lennox  Tower  and  Curriehill 
Castle.  Illustrious  natives  or  residents  were  Sir  Thomas 
Craig  (1538-1608),  author  of  Jus  Feudalc ;  the  Lord 
Clerk  Register,  Sir  John  Skene  of  Curriehill  (1549-1612), 
legal  antiquary  ;  his  son.  Lord  President  Sir  James 
Skene  (1580-1633) ;  Sir  Archibald  Johnston,  Lord  War- 
riston  (1010-63),  lawyer  and  statesman  ;  Jas.  Anderson, 
LL.D.  (1739-1808),  wTiter  on  agriculture  ;  General 
Thomas  Scott  of  Malleny  (1745-1841) ;  John  Marshall, 
Lord  Curriehill  (1794-1868) ;  and  his  son  and  namesake 


CUTTLEHILL 

(1827-81),  also  an  eminent  judge.  The  principal  man- 
sions are  Baberton,  Curriehill,  Hermiston,  Lennox  Lea, 
Lyraphoy,  Malleny,  Ravelrig,  and  Riccarton  ;  and  13 
proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  up- 
wards, 9  of  between  £100  and  £500,  9  of  from  £50  to 
£100,  and  25  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Currie  is  in  the  pres- 
bytery of  Edinburgh  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweed- 
dale  ;  the  living  is  worth  £395.  The  parish  church,  at 
the  village,  successor  to  one  that  down  to  the  reign  o. 
Charles  I.  appears  to  have  been  subordinate  to  the 
collegiate  church  of  Corstorphine,  was  built  about  1785, 
and  contains  800  sittings.  A  Free  church  for  Currie 
and  Colinton  stands  at  Juniper  Green ;  at  Balerno 
are  a  U. P.  church  and  St  Mungo's  Episcopal  chapel; 
and  two  public  schools,  Balerno  and  Currie,  and  Balerno 
Episcopal  school,  with  respective  accommodation  for 
176,  200,  and  126  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  103,  122,  and  57,  and  grants  of  £82, 
5s.  6d.,  £95,  18s.,  and  £39,  4s.  Valuation  (I860) 
£18,692,  (1882)  £32,217,  including  £8443  for  railways 
and  waterworks.  Pop.  (1801)  1112,  (1831)  1883,  (1861) 
2248,  (1871)  2360,  (1881)  2390.— Orc^.  Sur.,  sh.  32,  1857. 

Currie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Borthwick  parish, 
Edinburghshire.  The  mansion,  standing  on  a  head- 
stream  of  Gore  Water,  2\  miles  SE  of  Gorebridge,  con- 
sists partly  of  a  former  inn,  partly  of  excellent  additions, 
and  reposes  among  sheltering  wood  under  the  shadow 
of  Borthwick  Castle.  Its  owner,  Stuart  Brown,  Esq. 
(b.  1818),  holds  904  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £866 
per  annum.  A  previous  mansion,  demolished  about 
1809,  stood  on  a  rising-gi-ound  overlooking  the  old 
church  and  valley  of  Borthwick. 

Curriehill,  an  estate,  vdilx  a  mansion,  in  Currie  parish, 
Edinburghshire,  1  mile  SW  of  Curriehill  station  on  the 
Caledonian,  this  being  5J  miles  SW  of  Edinburgh.  A 
castle,  a  little  W  of  the  mansion,  figured  as  a  place  of 
strength  in  the  time  of  Queen  Mary,  being  held  by  the 
Queen's  opponents.     See  Cuerie. 

Cushieville.     See  Coshieville. 

Cushnie,  an  ancient  parish  in  Alford  district,  Aber- 
deenshire, annexed  in  1798  to  Leochel,  and  now  form- 
ing the  western  section  of  that  parish.  Cushnie  or 
Sockaugh  Hill,  at  the  meeting-point  with  Towie,  Logie- 
Coldstone,  and  Tarland,  7  miles  SW  of  Alford  village, 
has  an  altitude  of  2032  feet  above  sea-level,  and  com- 
mands a  very  extensive  view.  Cushnie  Burn,  rising  on 
the  north-western  shoulder  of  the  hill,  runs  4^  miles 
east-north-eastward  along  Cushnie  Glen  and  the  Howe 
of  Cushnie  to  a  confluence  with  Leochel  Water  at  Brigton 
of  Ininteer.  Cushnie  barony,  originally  called  Cus- 
scnin  (Gael,  ch'oisinn,  'corner'),  belonged,  in  the  12th 
century,  to  a  family  of  its  own  name ;  went  by  marriage, 
in  the  early  part  of  the  14th  century,  to  the  Leslies, 
ancestors  of  the  Earls  of  Rothes  ;  and  passed,  in  1628, 
to  the  Lumsdens.  The  old  House  of  Cushnie,  built  in 
1707,  has  long  been  uninhabited  ;  but  near  it  a  small 
neat  mansion  was  erected  by  the  late  proprietor,  the 
Rev.  Hy.  T.  Lumsden  (died  1867),  whose  widow  holds 
3000  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2588  per  annum. 
His  uncle,  Matthew  Lumsden,  LL.D.  (1788-1856),  was 
an  eminent  orientalist. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  76,  1874.  See 
Leochel-Ci'shnie. 

Cuthill  or  Cuttle,  a  suburb  of  Prestonpans  town, 
Hadilingtonsliire.  Separated  from  the  W  end  of  that 
town  by  a  rill,  it  is  a  dingy  unpleasant  place  ;  and 
formerly  had  a  salt  work,  a  magnesia  manufactory,  and 
an  extensive  pottery. 

Cuttlehill,  a  mansion  in  Aberdour  parish,  Fife,  | 
mile  E  by  S  of  Crossgates  station. 


332 


DAAN 


DALAROSSIE 


D 


DAAN,  a  bum  of  Edderton  parish,  Ross -shire, 
formed  hy  two  head-streams,  and  running  2| 
miles  north-north-eastward  to  the  inner  Dornoch 
Firth,  at  Ardmore  Point,  If  mile  W  by  N  of 
Meikle  Ferry. 

Daer  Water,  the  principal  head-stream  of  the  Clyde, 
rising  in  the  extreme  S  of  the  parish  of  Crawford  and  of 
the  cbhire  of  Lanark,  at  2000  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the 
NE  slope  of  Gana  Hill  (2190  feet),  within  J  mile  of  the 
Dumfriesshire  border  and  of  a  sub-affluent  of  the  Annan. 
Thence  it  runs  lOJ  miles  northward  to  a  confluence  with 
Powtrail  "Water,  at  a  point  2 f  miles  S  of  Elvanfoot ;  and 
their  united  waters  thenceforward  bear  the  name  of  the 
river  Clyde.  Traversing  a  dreary  region  of  bleak  moun- 
tains and  moorish  uplands,  and  joined  by  sixteen  little 
affluents,  it  has  a  rapid,  noisy,  and  frolicsome  cm-rent ; 
enjoys  high  repute  as  a  trouting  stream  ;  and  gives  the 
titie  of  Baron  (ere.  1646)  to  the  Earl  of  Selkirk.— Orrf. 
Sur.,  sh.  15,  1864. 

Daharick,  a  moor  in  Midmar  parish,  Aberdeenshire, 
said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  a  battle  between  Wallace 
and  Comyn. 

Daiglen,  a  bum  in  Tillicoultry  parish,  Clackmannan- 
shire, rising  at  an  altitude  of  1750  feet,  and  running  If 
mile  south-eastward  to  form  with  Gannel  Bum  the  Bum 
of  Tillicoultry. 

Dailly,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  Carrick  district,  Ayr- 
shire. The  village  of  New  Dailly  stands  on  the  left 
bank  of  Girvan  Water,  7  furlongs  SSE  of  Dailly  station, 
on  the  Ayr  and  Girvan  railway,  this  being  5i  miles  EXE 
of  Girvan,  and  7^  SSW  of  Maybole,  under  which  it  has 
a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  tele- 
graph departments.  Greatly  improved  and  enlarged 
since  1825,  it  is  substantially  built  and  regularly  aligned ; 
at  it  are  a  principal  inn,  the  parish  and  Free  churches, 
a  public  school,  and  a  working  men's  club.  Pop.  (1841) 
591,  (1861)  650,  (1871)  554,  (1881)  696. 

The  parish,  called  ancientlv  Dahnaolkeran  ('dale  of 
St  Keiran  '),  had  its  church  till  1691  at  Old  Dailly,  U 
miles  to  the  WSW  ;  in  1653  it  was  shorn  of  a  large  tract 
to  form  Barr  parish,  but  acquired  a  small  annexation 
from  Kirkoswald.  It  includes  Ailsa  Craig  :  yet  itself 
at  no  point  touches  the  sea,  being  bounded  NW  and  N 
by  Kirkoswald,  NE  by  Kirkmichael,  E  by  Kirkmichael 
and  Straiton,  S  by  Barr,  SW  and  W  by  Girvan. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  7|  miles ;  its 
breadth,  from  N  to  S,  varies  between  I5  and  6  miles  ; 
and  its  area  is  18,078^  acres,  of  which  82|  are  water. 
GiRVAX  Water,  followed  pretty  closely  by  the  railway, 
winds  9J  miles  west-south-westward  through  the  nortli- 
western  interior  or  along  the  northern  and  western 
borders  ;  and  several  burns  run  to  it  from  the  interior. 
In  the  SW,  where  it  passes  off  into  Girvan,  the  surface 
sinks  to  close  upon  50  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising 
north-eastward  to  500  feet  at  High  Craighead,  329  near 
Kilgrammie,  700  at  Quarrel  Hill,  and  850  at  Kirk  Hill ; 
south-eastward  and  eastward  to  908  at  Green  Hill,  1059 
at  Hadvard  Hill,  981  at  Peat  Pag,  1049  at  Barony  Hill, 
1007  at  Caim  Hill,  and  1385  at  Garleffin  Fell.  The 
rocks  belong  partly  to  the  Calciferous  Sandstone  series, 
partly  to  the  Carboniferous  Limestone ;  and  coal  is 
worked  at  Bargany  and  Dalquharran,  limestone  at  Craig- 
head, while  sandstone  also  is  plentiful.  The  tract 
along  Girvan  Water  is  a  pleasant  vale,  fertile,  richly 
wooded,  and  well  cultivated ;  the  soil  is  here  partly 
alluvial,  and  elsewhere  ranges  from  argillaceous  or  light 
and  dry,  incumbent  on  gravel,  to  thin,  wet,  and  spongy 
on  the  hills,  which,  naturally  heathy  or  mossy,  have 
been  in  places  reclaimed,  and  almost  everywhere  afford 
good  pasturage.  Baronial  fortalices  stood  at  Old  Kil- 
kerran,  Dalquharran,  Brunston,  and  Penkill ;  a  chapel 
of  St  Macarius  *  stood  at  Machrykill,  another  of  Our 
Lady  in  Ladyrjlcn,  and  a  third  at  Altichapel ;  whilst 

*  In  Procs.Ayr  and  Wigtown  Archceol.  Soc.  (18S2)  is  a  notice  of 
the  sole  relic  of  this  chapel— a  stone  supposed  to  have  been  a  bap- 
tismal font  of  hi^h  antiquity. 


on  the  western  shoulder  of  Hadyard  Hill,  which  com- 
mands a  magnificent  view,  is  a  doubly-entrenched  camp, 
possibly  formed  in  the  days  of  Robert  Bruce,  and  measur- 
ing 300  feet  by  195.  Natives  of  Dailly  were  the  poet, 
Hew  Ainslie  (1792-1878) ;  Thos.  Thomson  (1768-1852), 
lawyer  and  antiquary ;  and  his  painter  brother,  the  Rev. 
Jn.  Thomson  of  Duddingston  (1778-1840):  and  Prof. 
Alex.  Hill,  D.D.  (1785-1867),  was  minister  from  1816  to 
1840.  Mansions,  all  separately  noticed,  are  Bargany, 
Dalquharran  Castle,  Kilkerran,  Killochan  Castle,  and 
Penkill  Castle  ;  and  5  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  2  of  between  £100  and  £500, 
and  6  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Dailly  is  in  the  presbj-tery 
of  Ayr  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ajt  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £397.  In  1881  it  was  all  but  resolved  to  rebuild 
the  parish  churcli  (1766;  600  sittings),  but  for  the  pre- 
sent things  are  at  a  standstill.  Four  schools — Dailly 
public,  Kilgrammie  public.  Old  Dailly  public,  and  Wal- 
laceto^vn  Works — with  respective  accommodation  for  227, 
109,  75,  and  90  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  168,  55,  39,  and  89,  and  grants  of  £135,  14s., 
£27,  13s.,  £40,  14s.,  and  £61,  4s.  Valuation  (1882) 
£16,288,  18s.  lOd.,  plus  £2618  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801) 
1756,  (1831)  2074,  (1861)  2050,  (1871)  1932,  (1881)  2204. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  14,  8,  1863. 

Dairsie,  a  parish  in  the  NE  of  Fife,  containing  at  its 
eastern  border  the  village  of  Dairsiemuir  or  Osnabm-gh, 
5  furlongs  NNW  of  Dairsie  station,  this  being  3^  miles 
SSW  of  Leuchars  Junction,  and  3  ENE  of  Cupar,  under 
which  it  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  and  railway  telegraph  departments.  Bounded 
NW  by  Kilmany  and  Logie,  N  and  E  by  Leuchars,  SE 
by  Kemback,  SW  and  W  by  Cupar,  the  parish  has  an 
utmost  length  from  E  to  W  of  2|  miles,  a  var\-ing 
breadth  from  N  to  S  of  5  furlongs  and  2J  miles,  and 
an  area  of  2560^  acres,  of  which  5;^  are  water.  The 
Eden  winds  2^  miles  north-eastward  along  aU  the  Kem- 
back border ;  and  where,  close  to  Dairsie  station,  it 
quits  this  parish,  the  surface  declines  to  less  than  100 
feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  westward  and  north- 
westward to  505  feet  on  Foodie  Hill,  and  554  on  Ckaig- 
FOODIE,  which,  presenting  to  the  SW  a  precipitous  and 
quasi-columnar  front,  commands  a  verj-  extensive  view. 
Sandstone  abounds  in  the  S ;  and  trap-rock  is  quarried 
in  two  places.  The  soil,  in  most  parts  fertile,  in  many 
is  rich  and  deep ;  and  little  or  nothing  is  waste.  Dairsie 
Castle,  a  ruin  on  a  rising-ground  near  the  Eden,  was  the 
meeting-place  of  a  parliament  in  1335,  and  was  occupied 
by  John  Spottiswood,  Archbishop  of  St  Andrews,  when 
■writing  his  History  of  tlie  Church  and  State  of  Scotland. 
Craigfoodie  is  the  chief  mansion  ;  and  4  proprietors  hold 
each  an  annual  value  of  £1000  and  upwards,  2  of  between 
£500  and  £1000,  1  of  from  £100  to  £500,  and  3  of  from 
£20  to  £50.  Dairsie  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Cupar  and 
synod  of  Fife  ;  the  living  is  worth  £400.  The  parish 
church  containing  313  sittings,  was  'built  and  adorned 
after  the  decent  English  fashion '  by  Archbishop  Spottis- 
wood in  1621.  A  squat,  four-bayed  oblong,  ^ith  octa- 
gonal bell-turret  and  dwarf-spire,  it  'only  shows,'  says 
Hill  Burton,  '  that  the  hand  of  the  builder  had  lost  its 
cunning,  and  that  neither  the  prelate  nor  his  biographer 
had  an  eye  for  mediaeval  art  ;  it  is  a  piece  of  cold 
mimicry,  like  the  work  of  the  cabinetmaker  rather  than 
of  the  architect,'  etc.  {Hist.  Scot.,  vii.  102,  ed.  1876). 
There  is  also  a  Free  church  ;  and  a  public  school,  with 
accommodation  for  135  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  112,  and  a  grant  of  £90,  9s.  Valuation 
(1882)  £6573,  3s.  lid.  Pop.  (1801)  550,  (1831)  605, 
(1861)  638,  (1871)  687,  (1881)  693.— Ord.  Sur.,  shs. 
48,  49,  1868-65.  See  vol  L  of  Billings'  Antiquities 
(1845). 

Dairsiemuir.    See  Dair.sie. 

Dalarossie  (Gael,  dail-a-rois,  '  field  of  the  point '),  an 
ancient  parish  of  NE  Inverness-shire,  now  annexed  to 
Moy.  More  populous  than  Moy,  it  lies  along  the  Find- 
hom  river,  and  on  its  left  bank,  3|  miles  SW  of  Findhorn 

333 


DALAVICH 

bridge  and  20i  SE  of  Inverness,  has  a  church  (1790  ;  450 
sittings)  and  a  public  school. 

Dalavich,  an  ancient  parish  and  a  registration  district 
in  Lorn,  Argj-Ushire.  The  parish,  now  annexed  to  Kil- 
chrenan,  lies  along  the  loch  and  river  of  Avich,  onward 
to  Loch  Awe,  on  whose  western  shore,  14  miles  WNW 
of  Inverarv,  stand  its  church  and  its  public  school. 
Pop.    of  district  (1871)   217,   (ISSl)  225.      See   KiL- 

CHKEN'AX. 

Dalbaxber,  a  village  on  the  E  border  of  Fowlis-Wester 
parish,  Perthshire,  2  miles  WSW  of  Methven  village. 

Dalbeattie,  a  thriving  police  burgh  in  Urr  parish,  SE 
Kirkcudbrightshire,  standing,  SO  feet  above  sea-level,  on 
Dalbeattie  Bum,  7  furlongs  from  its  influx  to  Urr 
Water,  with  a  station  on  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western 
railway,  5J  miles  ESE  of  Castle -Douglas,  15i  NE  bv  E 
of  Kirkcudbright,  14i  SW  of  Dumfries,  108i  SSW  of 
Edinburgh,  and  106J  S  by  E  of  Glasgow.  Founded  as 
a  mere  village  in  1780,  this  '  Granite  City  of  the  South ' 
owes  its  quick  recent  extension  to  the  neighbouiing 
quarries  of  Craignair  in  BriTTLE,  to  the  opening  of  the 
railway  in  186u,  and  to  its  situarion  near  the  Ukk, 
which,  for  large  vessels,  is  navigable  as  high  as  Dub  o' 
Hass,  5  miles  to  the  S,  and  for  small  craft  up  to  quite 
close  to  the  town.  It  consists  of  a  main  street  with 
others  diverging,  and  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments,  a  branch  of 
the  Union  Bank,  11  insurance  agencies,  4  hotels,  a  gas 
company,  a  town-hall  with  illuminated  clock,  a  mechanics' 
institute  (1877),  a  literary  association,  bowling  and 
quoiting  greens,  masonic,  oddfellows',  and  foresters' 
lodges,  etc.  There  are  extensive  bone,  paper,  bobbin,  saw, 
and  flour  mills,  dye-works,  an  iron-forge,  and  concrete 
iforks  ;  but  Dalbeattie's  chief  industrial  establishments 
are  the  great  steam  granite-polishing  works  of  ilessrs 
Newall  and  Messrs  Shearer,  Field,  &  Co. ,  which  employ 
several  hundreds  of  workmen  as  quarriers,  hewers,  and 
polishers ;  have  furnished  granite  for  the  Liverpool  docks, 
the  Thames  Embankment,  lighthouses  in  Ceylon,  and 
the  paving  of  many  large  cities  at  home  and  abroad ; 
and,  besides  other  monuments,  supplied  that  at  Hughen- 
den  to  Viscountess  and  Viscount  Beaconsfield.  Hiring 
fairs  are  held  on  the  second  Tuesday  of  April  and  Octo- 
ber. Dalbeattie  forms  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  the  pres- 
bytery and  synod  of  Dumfries,  its  minister's  stipend 
being  £300.  A  new  parish  church.  Early  English  in 
style,  with  900  sittings  and  a  spire  130  feet  high,  was 
built  in  1880  at  a  cost  of  £5000  ;  and,  at  a  cost  of  nearly 
£2000,  a  new  Free  church,  Romanesque  in  style,  was 
bmlt  in  1881.  Other  places  of  worship  are  a  U.P. 
church  (1818 ;  350  sittings),  an  Evangelical  Union 
church,  St  Peter's  Roman  Catholic  church  (1814  ;  300 
sittings),  and  Christ  Church  Episcopal  (1875),  another 
Early  English  edifice,  with  tower  unfinished.  A  public, 
a  female  public,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  school,  with 
respective  accommodation  for  500,  65,  and  154  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  384,  57,  and  80, 
and  grants  of  £327,  lis.  2d.,  £47,  2s.,  and  £65,  lis. 
Under  the  General  Police  and  Improvement  Act  of  1862, 
the  burgh  is  governed  by  a  senior  and  two  junior  magis- 
trates and  six  other  police  commissioners.  Its  munici- 
pal constituency  numbered  750  in  1882,  when  the  annual 
value  of  real  property  amounted  to  £9712.  Pop.  of 
burgh  (1841)  1430,  (1861)  1736,  (1871)  2937,  (1881) 
3862;  of  qiLoad  sacra  parish  (1881)  4132.— Ord.  Hur., 
8h.  5,  1857. 

DaJblair.     See  GLEXMt'iR, 

Dalcaimie  Linn.     See  Beheeth. 

DalcapozL     See  Duxkeld  and  Dowallt, 

Dalchally,  a  glen  in  Glenisla  parish,  Forfarshire, 
tntversfil  by  Cally  Water  to  the  river  Lsla  at  a  jioint  6 
miles  N  of  Glenisla  church. 

Dalchonzie,  an  estate,  with  a  modem  mansion,  in 
Coriirio  parish,  Pertlishire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Earn,  2^  miles  W  of  Comrie  village. 

Daichosnie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Fortingall 

parish,   N\V   Perthshire,   near   the   right  bank  of  the 

Tummel,  \\  mile  ESE  of  Kinloch  Rannoch.     Its  owner. 

General  Alaatair  M'lan  M'Donald,  of  Dux  Alastaik 

334 


DALGETY 

(b.  1S30  ;  sue.  1866),  chief  of  the  M'Donalds  of  Keppoch, 
holds  14,000  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2676  per 
annum. 

Dalchreichard,  a  hamlet,  with  a  public  school,  in 
Urquhart  and  Glenmoristou  parish,  luverness-shire,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Moriston,  1  mile  W  of  Torgyle 
Bridge. 

Dalcross,  a  ruined  castle  in  the  united  parish  of  Croy 
and  Dalcross,  NE  Inverness-shire,  2  miles  SE  of  Dalci'oss 
station  on  the  Highland  railway,  this  being  6f  miles 
NE  of  Inverness.  Bmlt  by  the  eighth  Lord  Lovat  in 
1621,  it  afterwards  passed  to  the  il'Iutoshes,  whose  nine- 
teenth cliief,  Lachlan,  lay  here  in  state  from  9  Dec.  1703 
till  18  Jan.  1704,  when  2000  of  the  Clan  Chattan  fol- 
lowed his  remains — scanty  enough,  one  would  fancy — to 
their  last  resting-place  in  Petty  ehmxh.  Here,  too, 
the  Royal  troops  were  put  in  array  immediately  before 
the  battle  of  Culloden.  Dalcross  stands  high  (362  feet 
above  sea-level),  and  commands  a  continuous  view  from 
ilealfourvonie  to  the  Ord  of  Caithness  ;  it  consists  of 
two  square,  lofty,  corbie-gabled  blocks,  joined  to  each 
other  at  right  angles.     See  Croy. 

Dalcruive  or  Dalcrue,  a  place  in  Methven  parish, 
Perthshire,  2  miles  XE  of  ilethven  village,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Almond,  which  here  is  crossed  by  a  fine 
bridge,  erected  in  1836-37,  with  one  semicircular  arch 
of  SO  feet  span. 

Daldawn  or  Dildawn,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  man- 
sion, in  Keltou  parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Dee,  3  miles  SW  of  Castle-Douglas. 

Dalduff,  an  ancient  baronial  fortalice  in  Maybole 
parish,  Aj'rshire,  now  represented  by  only  ruinous 
walls,  3  nules  SE  of  Maybole  town. 

Dale,  a  village  of  Shetland,  3J  miles  from  its  post- 
to^vn,  LerAvick. 

Dalgain.     See  SoRX. 

Dalgamock,  an  ancient  parish  in  Xithsdale,  Dumfries- 
shire, annexed  to  Closebum  in  1697.  It  nearly  sur- 
rounded the  original  parish  of  Closeburn ;  and  its 
beautiful  churchyard,  l|  mile  S  of  Thornhill,  contains 
the  grave  and  tombstone  of  the  persecuted  Covenanter 
James  Harkness.  Here  stood  a  village,  a  burgh  of 
barony,  where  a  famous  market-tryst  was  held,  that 
seems  to  have  been  continued  after  most  or  all  of  the 
houses  had  disappeared,  and  is  alluded  to  in  Burus's 
lines  : 

'  But  a'  the  next  week,  as  I  fretted  wi'  care, 

I  gaed  to  the  trj'st  o'  Dalgamock ; 
And  wha  but  my  fine  fickle  lover  was  there  ! 

I  glowi-'d  as  I'd  seen  a  warlock,  a  warlock ; 

I  glowr'd  as  I'd  seen  a  warlock.' 

Dalgarven,  a  village  in  Kilwinning  parish,  Ayrshire, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Garnock,  contiguous  to  the 
Glasgow  and  Soi;th-Westem  railway,  2  miles  N  by  W 
of  Kih\inning  town. 

Dalgenross.     See  Dai.gixross. 

Dalgety  or  Delgaty,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in 
Turiitl'  parish,  N  Aberdeenshire,  2  miles  EXE  of  Turrilf 
town.  For  three  centuries  and  a  half  the  property  of 
the  Hays  of  ErroU,  it  was  sold  in  1762  to  Peter  Garden, 
Esq.  of  Troup,  and  by  his  son  resold  in  1798  to  James, 
second  Earl  of  Fife,  whose  nephew.  Gen.  the  Hon.  Sir 
Alexander  DuS"  (1778-1851),  long  made  it  his  residence. 
Finally  it  was  purchased  by  a  younger  brother  of  the 
present  Governor  of  iladras,  Ainslie  Douglas  Ainslie, 
Esq.,  who,  born  in  1838,  changed  in  1866  his  name 
C rant-Duff  to  that  of  Ainslie,  and  who  holds  2822  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1768  per  annum.  The  oldest 
part  of  Dalgety  Castle,  with  walls  more  than  7  feet 
thick,  is  older  perhaps  than  its  earliest  extant  date 
(1579);  and,  added  to  at  various  jjcriods  down  to  the 
present  century,  the  whole  is  now  a  stately  Sf[uare, 
winged  pile,  its  battlements — 66  feet  from  the  ground — 
commanding  a  beautiful  view.  The  grounds  are  finely 
wooded,  and  contain  a  lake  (2JxifurL).  —  Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  86,  1876. 

Dalgety,  a  coast  pari.sh  of  SW  Fife,  containing  the  vil- 
lages of  St  Davids,  Fordel,  and  Mossgreen,  with  part  of 
Cko-ssgates,  and  traversed  down  to  the  coast  at  St  Davidft 


DALGINSOSS 

by  the  Fordel  mineral  railway  ;  whilst  its  church  stands 
l|  mile  W  by  S  of  the  post-towu  Aberdour,  and  4^  miles 
AV  by  S  of  Burntisland.  It  is  bounded  W  and  N  by 
Dunfermline,  NE  by  Aberdour,  and  SE  by  the  Firth  of 
Forth,  here  from  1£  to  4J  miles  broad.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  N  to  S,  is  4^  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to 
AV,  varies  between  4^  furlongs  and  2|  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  3710:j  acres,  of  which  SoZ^  are  foreshore  and  12f 
water.  The  coast-line  is  fully  5J  miles  long,  if  one 
foUows  the  bends  of  Barnhill,  Braefoot,  Dalgety,  and 
Donibristle  Bays,  the  largest  of  which,  Dalgety  Bay, 
measures  6J  furlongs  across  the  entrance,  and  3;^  thence 
to  its  inmost  recess.  From  the  shore,  which  in  places 
is  beautifully  wooded  right  down  to  the  water's  edge,  the 
surface  here  and  there  rises  steeply  to  100  feet  and 
more  above  sea-level,  thence  gently  ascending  through- 
out the  interior,  till  close  to  the  northern  border,  J  mile 
E  of  Crossgates,  it  attains  426  feet.  A  darkly-wooded 
glen,  cleaving  the  grounds  of  Fordel,  is  traversed  by  a 
brook  which  makes  a  fine  waterfall  of  50  feet ;  and  a 
beautiful  little  loch  is  at  Otterston,  which  still  boasts 
some  magnificent  trees.  Among  them  are  a  beech  and 
an  ash,  90  and  80  feet  high,  and  15|  in  girth  at  5  feet 
from  the  ground  ;  but  a  gale  of  January  1882  laid  low 
two  venerable  walnut-trees,  the  largest  of  which  girthed 
15§  feet  at  16  from  the  ground.  The  rocks  are  chiefly 
of  the  Carboniferous  formation,  and  include  great 
abundance  of  sandstone,  limestone,  and  coal ;  the 
last,  of  very  superior  quality,  is  mined  at  Fordel.  The 
arable  soil  is  loam,  partly  light  and  dry,  more  generally 
deep  and  strong.  A  village  of  Dalgety  stood  at  the  head 
of  Dalgety  Bay,  4  mile  SSE  of  the  present  church  ;  but 
the  ivy-clad  ruins  of  St  Bridget's  kirk,  dating  from 
the  12th  century,  are  aU  that  now  mark  its  site.  First 
Pointed  in  style,  these  retain  a  piscina  and  a  number  of 
quaint  old  epitaphs  ;  whilst  Chancellor  Seton,  first  Eaid 
of  Dunfermline  (1555-1622),  is  bui'ied  in  a  vault  to  the 
W.  Almost  the  last  to  preach  within  their  walls  was 
Edward  Irving.  Other  antiquities  are  Fordel  Castle  and 
a  fragment  of  Couston  Castle,  at  the  E  end  of  Otterston 
Loch,  the  retreat  this  of  Charles  I.'s  persecuted  chaplain, 
the  Rev.  Robert  Blair  (1583-1666),  whose  grave  is  at 
Aberdour ;  of  Seton's  favouiite  residence,  Dalgety 
House,  not  so  much  as  a  stone  remains.  The  chief 
mansions  are  Donibristle  House,  Fordel  House,  Cock- 
AiRNiE,  and  Otterston  (1589),  the  two  last  both  the 
property  of  Captain  Moubray,  R.N.  (b.  1818  ;  sue. 
1848),  whose  ancestor,  a  cadet  of  the  Bai-nbougle  Mou- 
brays,  settled  here  in  1511,  and  who  owns  500  acres  in 
the  shire,  valued  at  £794  per  annum.  In  all,  3  pro- 
prietors hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards, 
2  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  5  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Giving 
off  its  northern  portion  to  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Moss- 
green,  Dalgety  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dunfermline  and 
.synod  of  Fife  ;  the  living  is  worth  £358.  The  present 
church,  built  in  1830,  is  a  good  Gothic  structure,  con- 
taining 500  sittings ;  and  2  public  schools,  Hillend 
and  Mossgreen,  with  respective  accommodation  for  116 
and  220  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of 
102  and  168,  and  grants  of  £80,  lis.  and  £147. 
Valuation  (1882)  £7695,  15s.  5d.  Pop.  (1801)  890, 
(1831)  1300,  (1861)  1569,  (1871)  1310,  (1881)  1321.— 
Old.  Sur.,  shs.  32,  40,  1857-67.  See  pp.  25-54  of  J.  C. 
R.  Buckner's  Rambles  Hound  Aberdour  (Edinb.  1881). 

Dalginross  (Gael,  dail-chinn-rois,  '  field  at  the  head  of 
the  point '),  a  village  in  Comrie  parish,  Perthshire,  on 
the  peninsula  between  the  AVater  of  Ruchill  and  the 
river  Earn,  3  furlongs  S  of  Comrie  town.  Dalginross 
Plain,  to  the  S  of  the  village,  contained  two  Roman 
camps,  one  of  them  occupying  an  area  of  16  acres,  sup- 
posed by  some  antiquaries  to  liave  been  the  '  A'^ictoria  ' 
of  the  ninth  Legion.     See  Blairinroar. 

Dalguise,  a  village,  with  a  Society's  school,  in  Little 
Dunkeld  parish,  central  Perthshire,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Tay,  with  a  station  on  the  Highland  railway,  4^ 
miles  NNAV  of  Dunkeld,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
and  telegraph  office.  The  railway  crosses  the  Tay,  ^ 
mile  N  of  the  station,  on  a  latticed  iron-girder  viaduct 
360  feet  in  span,  resting  on  one  stone  pier,  and  terminat- 


DALINTOBER 

ing  at  each  end  in  handsome  towers  and  wings  of 
masonry  71  feet  long,  and  there  it  begins  to  open  on  the 
beautiful  Vale  of  Athole.  Dalguise  House,  near  the  vil- 
lage, is  partly  an  old  building,  partly  modem  ;  the 
estate  was  given  by  AA'^illiam  the  Lyon  to  Dunkeld 
chm-ch,  and  in  1543  was  transferred  by  Bishop  Crichton 
to  John,  second  son  of  Steuart  of  ArntuUie,  whose  de- 
scendant, John  Steuart,  Esq.,  tenth  Laird  of  Dalguise 
(b.  1799;  sue.  1821),  holds  1750  acres  in  Perthshire, 
valued  at  £1036  per  annum,  but  is  non-resident,  having 
been  one  of  the  earliest  settlers  in  Cape  Colony,  where 
he  is  Master  of  the  Su[ireme  Court. 

Dalhalvaig.     See  Reay. 

Dalhonzie.     See  Dalchonzie. 

Dalhousie  Castle,  a  noble  mansion  in  Cockpen  parish, 
Midlothian,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  South  Esk,  2J 
miles  S  by  AV  of  Dalkeith,  1§  mile  SE  of  Bonnyrigg, 
and  1^  S  by  AV  of  Dalhousie  station  on  the  AVaverley 
route  of  the  North  British,  this  being  9  miles  SE  of 
Edinburgh.  In  the  first  half  of  the  12th  centm-y  Simon 
de  Ramsay  received  a  grant  of  lands  in  Midlothian  from 
David  I.  ;  in  1296  and  1304  AA'^illiam  de  Ramsay  swore 
fealty  to  Edward  1.  of  England  for  the  lands  of  '  Dal- 
wokie.'  His  sou.  Sir  Alexander,  was  one  of  the  great 
Scotch  leaders  in  the  AVar  of  Independence,  the  capturer 
of  Roxburgh,  who  for  reward  was  starved  to  death  in 
the  Castle  of  Hermitage  (1342);  in  1400  his  namesake 
and  fourth  descendant  successfully  defended  Dalhousie 
against  Henry  lA".  of  England.  This  Sir  Alexander 
was  slain  at  Homildon  (1402),  as  was  another  at  Flodden 
(1513).  In  1618  George  Ramsay,  eleventh  in  descent 
from  the  first  Sir  Alexander,  was  raised  to  the  peerage 
as  Lord  Ramsay  of  ]\Ielrose,  a  title  changed  in  the  fol- 
lowing year  to  that  of  Lord  Ramsay  of  Dalhousie  ;  and 
in  1633  his  son  and  successor,  AVilliam,  was  created  Earl 
of  Dalhousie  and  Baron  Ramsay  of  Kerington.  During 
his  time  we  find  Oliver  Cromwell  dating  his  letters  from 
Dalhousie  Castle,  8  and  9  Oct.  1648.  The  fifth,  sixth, 
seventh,  and  ninth  Earls  were  all  of  them  soldiers, 
George,  the  ninth  (1770-183S),  for  service  done  in  the 
Peninsula  being  raised  in  1S15  to  the  peerage  of  the 
United  Kingdom  as  Baron  Dalhousie  of  Dalhousie.  His 
third  son  and  successor,  the  Indian  administrator,  James 
Andrew  Brouu-Ramsay  (1812-60),  was  born  and  died  at 
Dalhousie,  at  Dalhousie  received  a  call  from  the  Queen 
and  Prince  Albert  on  4  Sept.  1842,  was  Governor- 
General  of  India  from  1847  to  1855,  and  in  1849  was 
created  Marquis  of  Dalhousie,  of  Dalhousie  Castle  and 
the  Punjaub.  This  title  died  with  him,  but  those  of 
Earl  of  Dalhousie  and  Baron  Ramsay  devolved  on  Ms 
cousin,  Fox  Maule,  second  Lord  Panmure  (1801-74), 
whose  cousin  and  successor  Admiral  George  Ramsay 
(1806-80)  became  a  peer  of  the  United  Kingdom  in  1875 
as  Baron  Ramsay  of  Glenmark.  His  son,  the  present 
and  thirteenth  Earl,  John  AVilliam  Ramsay,  Commander 
R.N.,  K.T.  (b.  1847),  is  eighteenth  in  descent  from  the 
first  Sii"  Alexander,  and  holds  1419  acres  in  Midlothian 
and  136,602  in  Forfarshire,  valued  respectively  at  £3452 
and  £55,602  per  annum.  (See  Brechin  and  Panmure.) 
Dating  from  the  12thcentui-y,  Dalhousie  is  described  by 
the  Queen  as  '  a  real  old  Scottish  castle,  of  reddish  stone;' 
but  by  the  ninth  Earl  it  was  so  altered  and  enlarged 
tliat  it  is  hard  to  say  how  much  is  old  and  how  much 
modern.  Anyhow  it  is  a  stately  castellated  pile,  with 
lofty  tower  and  a  fine  collection  of  family  portraits  ;  on 
10  Oct.  1867  it  narrowly  escaped  entire  destruction  by 
fire,  with  the  loss  of  the  third  story  and  attics  of  the 
central  portion.  The  park  is  finely  wooded,  and  the 
garden  of  singular  beautj'.  Less  than  a  half  mile  to  the 
NW  flows  Dalhousie  Burn,  which,  rising  near  New- 
bigging,  runs  5  miles  north-eastward  along  the  boundary 
of  Carrington  with  Lasswade  and  Cockpen,  and  through 
the  interior  of  tlie  latter  parish,  till  near  Dalhousie 
station  it  joins  the  South  Esk.  A  pretty  streandet, 
%dth  steep  but  wooded  banks,  it  makes  a  descent  from 
about  700  to  less  than  200  feet  above  sea-level. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  32,  1857.  See  Peter  Mitchell's  Parish  of 
Cockpen  in  the  Olden  Times  (Dalkeith,  1881). 

Dalintober,  a  suburban  village  in  Canipbclto-wn  parish, 

335 


DALJARROCH 

Argyllshire,  on  the  N  side  of  the  head  of  Campbeltown 
Loeh.  Lyins;  within  the  parliamentary  boundaries  of 
Campbeltown  bingh,  it  is  a  thriving  place,  with  a  sub- 
stantial small  pier. 

Daljairroch,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Colmonell 
parish,  S  Ayrshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Stinchar, 
near  Pinmore  station,  and  4' miles  ENE  of  Colmonell 
village.  Comprising  1927  acres,  it  was  sold  in  1875  for 
.i4S,000.     There  is  a  post  office  of  Daljarroch. 

Dalkairnie  Linn.     See  15erbeth. 

Dalkeith,  a  town  and  a  parish  in  the  E  of  Edinburgh- 
shire. The  town  stands,  182  feet  above  sea-level,  on  a 
peninsula  from  3  to  5  furlongs  wide  between  the  North 
and  South  Esks,  and  by  road  is  4^  miles  S  by  W  of 
Musselburgh  and  6  SE  "of  Edinburgh,  whilst,  as  ter- 
minus of  a  branch  line  3|  furlongs  long,  it  is  8|  miles 
SE  of  Edinburgh.  It  is  also  accessible  from  Eskbank 
station,  5  furlongs  to  the  SW,  on  the  main  Waverley 
route  of  the  North  British,  this  being  8|  miles  SE  of 
Edinburgh  and  90J  N  by  W  of  Cadisle.  A  low  and 
flat-backed  ridge,  the  peninsula  slopes  more  steeply  to 
the  North  than  the  South  Ksk  ;  of  the  town's  fair  sur- 
roundings this  picture  is  given  in  David  Moir's  Mansie 
Wauch : — '  Pleasant  Dalkeith  !  with  its  bonny  river, 
its  gardens  full  of  gooseberry  bushes  and  pear-trees,  its 
grass  parks  spotted  with  sheep,  and  its  grand  green 
woods.'  The  High  Street  widens  north-eastward  from 
30  to  85  feet,  and  terminates  at  a  gateway  leading  up  to 
Dalkeith  Palace,  the  principal  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Buc- 
cleuch,  which  palace,  as  centring  round  it  all  the  chief 
episodes  in  Dalkeith's  history,  must  here  be  treated  of 
before  Dalkeith  itself. 

The  Anglo-Norman  knight,  William  de  Graham,  a 
witness  to  the  foundation  charter  of  Hol3'rood  Abbey 
(1128),  received  from  David  I.  the  manor  of  Dalkeith  ; 
his  seventh  descendant,  John  de  Graham,  dying  without 
issue  about  the  middle  of  the  14tli  century,  left  two 
sisters,  his  heiresses,  of  whom  one,  ]\Iarjory,  conveyed 
Dalkeith  by  marriage  to  the  Douglases.  '  In  my 
youth,'  says  Froissart,  '  I,  the  author  of  this  book, 
travelled  all  through  Scotland,  and  was  full  fifteen  days 
resident  with  William,  Earl  of  Douglas,  at  his  castle  of 
Dalkeith.  Earl  James  was  then  very  young,  but  a  pro- 
mising youth,'  etc.  Doughty  Earl  James  it  was  who, 
capturing  Hotsimr's  trophy,  cried  out  that  he  would  set 
it  high  on  the  tower  of  his  castle  of  Dalkeith — a  taunt 
that  led  to  the  battle  of  Otterburn  (1388).  In  1452  tlie 
town  was  plundered  and  burned  by  the  brother  of  the 
murdered  sixth  Earl  of  Douglas,  but  the  castle  held  out 
gallantly  under  Patrick  Cockburn,  its  governor  ;  in 
1458  James  II.  conferred  on  James  Douglas  of  Dalkeith 
the  title  of  Earl  of  JMorton ;  and  at  the  second  Earl's  castle 
James  IV.  first  met  his  afiianced  Queen,  the  Princess 
Margaret  of  England,  3  Aug.  1503,  when,  '  having 
greeted  her  with  knightly  courtesy,  and  passed  the  day 
in  her  company,  he  returned  to  his  bed  at  Edinburgh, 
very  well  content  of  so  fair  meeting.'  In  1543,  Cardinal 
Beaton  was  committed  prisoner  to  Dalkeith  Castle, 
which  in  1547  had  to  yield  to  the  English  victors  of 
Pinkie  after  a  valiant  defence.  James,  fourth  Earl  of 
Morton,  the  cruel  and  grasping  Regent,  built  at  Dal- 
keith about  1575  a  magniiicent  palace,  richly  adorned 
with  tapestries  and  pictures,  and  fitter  for  king  tlian 
subject — the  '  Lion's  Den  '  the  country  people  called  it. 
Hither  on  Sunday,  June  11,  1581,  just  nine  days  after 
the  Lion's  head  had  fallen  beneath  the  Maiden's  axe, 
James  VI.  returned  from  the  jtarish  kirk  with  two 
jiipers  playing  before  him  and  with  the  Duke  of  Lennox, 
Morton's  accuser  and  successor.  The  Modern  Solomon 
revisited  Dalkeith  in  1G17,  when  Archibald  Symson,  the 
parish  minister,  addressed  to  him  a  congratulatory 
poem,  Philomela  Lalkethcnsis ;  and  in  1633  Charles  I. 
was  here  magnificently  entertained.  In  the  winter  of 
1637-38,  Ibllowing  close  on  the  Liturgy  tumults,  the 
Privy  Council  adjourned  from  Linlithgow  to  Dalkeith 
Palace,  whither  twelve  out  of  the  sixteen  'Tables,' or 
commissioners,  representing  the  supplicants  of  every 
estate,  came  to  present  their  menacing  [irotcstation  ;  and 
in  the  si)ring  of  1639  these  Tables  made  themselves 
836 


DALKEITH 

masters  of  the  palace.  "Within  it,  besides  military 
stores,  were  found  the  regalia — crown,  sceptre,  and 
sword — which,  with  all  reverence,  were  brought  back 
by  the  nobles  to  Edinburgh  Castle.  Francis  Scott, 
second  Earl  of  Buccleuch,  purchased  Dalkeith  from  the 
ninth  Earl  of  Morton  in  1642.  Dying  in  1651,  he  left 
two  daughters,  Mary  (1648-61)  and  Anne  (1651-1732), 
who,  successively  Countesses  of  Buccleuch  in  their  own 
right,  married,  at  the  early  ages  of  11  and  12,  Walter 
Scott  of  Highchester  and  the  ill-fated  Duke  of  Mon- 
mouth, both  of  them  lads  of  only  14  years.  The  Countess 
Mary's  custodier  was  the  celebrated  General  Monk,  who 
as  such  had  a  five  years'  lease  of  Dalkeith  (1654-59),  and 
lived  there  quietly,  busying  himself  with  gardening,  but 
ever  regarded  jealously  by  Cromwell.  Her  mother,  who 
for  third  husband  had  taken  the  Earl  of  Wemyss,  is 
described  by  Baillie  as  a  witty,  active  Avoman,  through 
whom  Monk  acted  on  the  Scottish  nobles,  and  through 
whom  the  Scottish  nobles  acted  in  turn  on  ilonk  ;  and 
that  '  sl}^  fellow'  is  said  to  have  planned  the  Restoration 
in  rooms,  still  extant,  overhanging  the  Esk.  Monmouth 
himself  must  often  have  been  here  ;  in  1663  he  and  his 
child  spouse  were  created  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Buccleuch 
and  Earl  and  Countess  of  Dalkeith.  The  Duchess  of 
the  Lay  of  the  Last  Minstrel,  she,  after  Monmouth's 
execution  (1685),  lived  chiefly  at  Newakk  Castle  in 
princely  style,  more  rarely  at  Dalkeith  Palace,  which,  as 
it  stands  to-day,  was  mainly  built  by  her.  Her  grandson 
and  successor,  Francis,  second  Duke  of  Buccleuch  (1695- 
1751),  in  whose  time  Prince  Charles  Edward  passed  two 
nights  at  Dalkeith  (1  and  2  Nov.  1745),  married  the 
eldest  daughter  of  James,  second  Duke  of  Queensberry  ; 
and  their  grandson  Henry,  third  Duke  (1746-1812), 
inherited  the  dukedom  of  Queensberry  in  1810.  With  a 
younger  brother,  assassinated  at  Paris  in  1766,  he  had 
made  the  grand  tour  under  the  tutelage  of  Adam  Smith ; 
and  he  did  much  to  improve  his  tenantry  and  vast 
estates.  To  him  Scott  owed  his  appointment  (1799)  as 
sherifl'-depute  of  Selkirkshire  ;  and  his  son  and  successor, 
Charles  William  Henry  (1772-1819),  is  also  remembered 
as  a  kindly  friend  to  both  Sir  Walter  and  the  Ettriek 
Shepherd.  His  son,  Walter-Francis  Montagu-Douglas- 
Scott  (b.  1806  ;  sue.  1819),  has  entertained  royalty 
twice,  in  the  persons  of  George  IV.  (15-29  Aug.  1822) 
and  Queen  Victoria  and  Prince  Albert  (1-6  and  13-15 
Sept.  1842).  He  is  the  fourth  largest  landowner  in 
Scotland,  holding  432,338  acres,  valued  at  £187,156  per 
annum,  viz.,  3536  in  Midlothian  (£28,408,  including 
£1479  for  minerals  and  £10,601  for  Granton  harbour), 
253,514  in  Dumfriesshire  (£97,530),  104,461  in  Rox- 
burghshire (£39,458),  60,428  in  Selkirkshire  (£19,828), 
9091  in  Lanarkshire (£1544),  and  1308  in  Fife,  Kirkcud- 
bright, and  Peebles  shires  (£3SS).  See  Bowhili,, 
DnuMLANRiG  Castle,  and  Buanxholm.  Such  are 
some  of  the  memories  of  Dalkeith  Palace,  which,  crown- 
ing a  steep,  rocky  knoll  above  the  North  Esk's  right 
bank,  was  mainly  rebuilt  by  the  Duchess  of  Monmouth  in 
the  early  years  of  the  18th  century.  Her  architect.  Sir 
John  Vanbrugh,  better  known  for  his  plays  than  his  build- 
ings, chose  as  a  model  Loo  Palace  in  the  Netherlands  ; 
the  result  is  a  heavy-looking  Grecian  pile  of  reddish  stone, 
with  recessed  centre  and  projecting  wings.  The  interior, 
however,  is  rich  in  treasures  of  art — six  family  portraits 
by  Gainsborough  and  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  Wilkie's 
]iortrait  of  George  IV.,  three  landscapes  by  Claude,  and 
other  paintings  by  Holbein,  Rembrandt,  Annibal 
I'aracci,  Van  Dyck,  etc.,  with  the  furniture  given  to 
Monmouth  by  Charles  II.  The  park,  extending  into 
Newton  and  Inveresk  parishes,  and  ringed  by  a  high 
stone  wall,  has  a  total  area  of  1035  acres,  130  of  which 
are  occupied  by  a  remnant  of  the  ancient  Caledonian 
Forest.  One  kingly  oak  is  93  feet  high,  and  girths  18^ 
feet  at  1  foot  from  the  ground  ;  whilst  an  ash  and  three 
beeches,  with  respective  girth  of  Vi'i,  17,  10;^,  and  14^ 
feet,  are  95,  110,  103,  and  95  feet  liigh.  Landscape 
gardening  has  done  much  to  enhance  the  beauties  duo 
to  an  undulating  surface  and  to  the  windings  of  the 
rivers  Esk,  which  iinite  7  furloiigs  below  tJie  jtilace  ;  and 
tJie  formality  in  the  ueneral  disposition  of  the  grounds 


DALKEITH 

and  in  the  planting,  that  offended  both  Gilpin  and 
Stoddart,  is  ever  softening  with  the  lapse  of  years.  See 
William  Fraser,  The  Scotts  of  BuccJeuch  {Edinh.  187S). 

Apart  from  castle  and  palace,  Dalkeith  has  nothing 
more  notable  in  its  history  than  Mr  Gladstone's  electoral 
address  of  20  March  1880.  Connected  ^\ith  it  by  birth, 
education,  or  residence  were  the  poet,  John  Rolland 
(flo.  1575);  David  Calderwood  (1575-1650),  ecclesiastical 
historian;  Archibald  Pitcairne  (1652-1713),  poet  and 
physician  ;  the  judge,  William  Calderwood,  Lord  Polton 
(1661-1733)  ;  John  Love  (1695-1750),  Buchanan's  vin- 
dicator, and  rector  of  the  grammar  school  from  1739  till 
his  death ;  Alexander  Wedderburn,  Lord  Longborough 
and  first  Earl  of  Rosslyn  (1733-1805),  Lord  High  Chan- 
cellor of  England  ;  the  historian,  Principal  William 
Robertson,  D.  D.  (1721-93)  ;  Henry  Dnndas,  Viscount 
Melville  (1742-1811)  ;  John  Kay,  the  caricaturist  (1742- 
1826),  for  six  years  'prentice  to  a  Dalkeith  barber  ; 
Ralph  Wardlaw,  D.D.  (1779-1853),  an  eminent  divine  ; 
Robert  Mushet  (1782-1828),  of  the  Royal  Mint  ;  and 
Norman  Macleod,  D.D.  (1812-72),  who  was  minister 
from  1843  to  1851. 

Nor,  apart  from  its  church,  has  the  town  miich  to 
show  in  the  way  of  antiquities — a  few  old  sculptured 
stones  let  into  modern  buildings,  '  Cromwell's  orderly 
house  '  in  Chapelwell  Close,  and  a  fragment  of  a  piscina 
in  an  old  house  near  the  palace  gate.  The  market-cross 
has  long  since  disappeared,  but  hiring  fairs  are  held  on 
the  last  Thursday  of  February,  the  first  Thursday  of 
April,  and  the  second  Thursday  of  October  ;  horse  and 
cattle  fairs  on  the  Thursday  of  May  after  Rutherglen 
and  the  third  Tuesday  of  October,  and  corn  markets  on 
every  Thursday  in  the  year.*  The  Corn  Exchange,  built 
in  1855  at  a  cost  of  £3800  from  designs  by  the  late  D. 
Cousin  of  Edinburgh,  is  a  large  hall,  172  by  50  feet,  and 
45  feet  high,  with  open-timbered  roof  and  a  gable-front 
to  the  High  Street,  adorned  by  a  panel  bearing  the 
Duke's  arms.  The  Town-hall,  a  plain  old  building, 
stands  also  in  the  High  Street ;  the  Foresters'  hall,  in 
Buccleuch  Street,  measuring  80  by  45  feet,  seats  800 
persons,  and  was  erected  in  1877  at  a  cost  of  £4700 ;  and 
the  Combination  poorhouse,  for  eleven  parishes,  at  Gal- 
lowshall,  accommodates  121  inmates,  and  was  built  at  a 
cost  of  £4058  in  1849,  being  the  first  of  such  houses  in 
Scotland.  Dalkeith  has  besides  a  post  office,  with  money 
order,  savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, branches  of  the  Commercial  (1810),  the  National 
(1825),  the  Royal(1836),  and  theClydesdale  Banks  (1858), 
a  National  Security  Savings'  bank  (1839),  20  insurance 
agencies,  6  chief  inns,  gas-works  (1827),  a  working  men's 
club  and  institute  (1867),  a  scientific  association  (1835), 
a  science  school  (1870),  an  agricultural  society  (1836), 
Liberal  and  Conservative  clubs  (1879),  a  masonic  hall,  a 
town  mission  (1846),  a  Royal  Infirmary  auxiliary  society 
(1841),  a  total  abstinence  society  (1837),  bowling, 
cricket,  and  curling  clubs,  two  papers — the  Thursday 
Dalkeith  Advertiser  and  the  Saturday  Dalkeith  Herald, 
etc.  The  streets  are  fairly  well  paved,  but  the 
drainage  is  very  defective,  as  also  was  the  water  supply, 
till  in  1878  an  arrangement  was  made  with  the  Edin- 
burgh Water  Company  to  bring  in  a  fresh  supply  from 
the  Moorfoot  Hills,  under  their  recent  Extension  Act, 
the  works  being  carried  out  in  1879  at  a  cost  of  £6000. 
Ironfounding,  brushmaking,  and  market-gardening  are 
the  leading  industries. 

The  old  or  East  Parish  church  is  of  unknown  date  ; 
but  Pope  Sixtus'  bull  of  1475  refers  to  the  collegiate 
establishment  of  St  Nicholas  of  Dalkeith,  consisting  of 
a  provost,  5  canons,  and  5  prebends,  as  having  been 
'founded  and  endowed  from  ancient  times.'  Second 
Pointed  in  style,  it  consists  of  an  aisled  navs  (78  x  53 
feet),  a  choir  (44  x  27)  with  trigonal  apse,  N  and  S  tran- 
septs, and  a  western  clock -tower  and  octagonal  spire  85 
feet  high.  The  choir,  however,  which,  with  its  canopied 
niches,  is  much  more  highly  decorated  than  the  rest  of 

*  The  weekly  corn  market  was  changed  from  Sunday  (on  which 
it  had  been  held  '  past  memory  of  man  ')  to  Thursday  by  an  Act 
of  the  Scottish  Parliament  of  15S1,  which  also  appointed  the  yearly 
October  fair. 
22 


DALKEITH 

the  fabric,  has  long  been  roofless,  cut  off  from  the  nave 
by  an  unsightly  wall ;  and  forty  years  since  nave  and 
transepts  were  '  choked  with  galleries,  rising  tier  above 
tier  behind  and  around  the  pulpit — a  curious  example 
of  Scotch  vandalism.  There  was,  however,  something  of 
the  picturesque  in  the  confused  cramming  of  these  "lofts" 
into  every  nook  and  corner,  in  the  quaint  shields,  de- 
vices, and  texts  emblazoned  in  front  of  the  seats  allotted 
to  different  guilds.  The  weavers  reminded  the  congre- 
gation of  how  life  was  passing  "  swiftly  as  the  weaver's 
shuttle,"  and  the  hammermen  of  how  the  Word  of  God 
smote  the  rocky  heart  in  pieces'  (Life  of  Norman  Macleod, 
1876).  Now,  as  restored  by  the  late  David  Bryce,  R.  S.  A. , 
in  1852,  the  church  contains  760  sittings,  and  presents 
a  goodly  appearance,  but  for  the  lack  of  the  choir,  in 
which  are  two  recumbent  effigies,  probably  of  James, 
first  Earl  of  Morton,  and  his  dame,  as  also  the  graves  of 
the  young  Countess  Mary  and  her  sister,  the  Duchess  of 
Monmouth.  The  West  Church,  on  a  commanding  site 
above  the  North  Esk,  was  erected  in  1840  at  the  cost  of 
the  Duke  of  Buccleuch,  and  is  a  cruciform  Early  English 
structure,  ■with  950  sittings,  and  a  spire  167  feet  high. 
King's  Park  U.P.  church,  also  Early  English  in  style, 
with  700  sittings  and  a  spire  of  140  feet,  was  built  in 
1869-70  at  a  cost  of  £3300  ;  and  Buccleuch  Street  U.P. 
church,  a  Lombardo- Venetian  edifice,  in  1879,  at  a  cost 
of  £8767.  Other  places  of  worship  are  Back  Street  U.  P. 
church  (436  sittings),  a  Free  church,  a  Congregational 
church  (300  sittings),  Wesleyan,  Baptist,  and  Evangelical 
Union  chapels,  St  David's  Roman  Catholic  church  (1854  ; 
500  sittings),  and  St  Mary's  Episcopal  church  (1845 ;  250 
sittings).  The  last,  situated  just  -within  the  gateway  of 
the  ducal  park,  is  a  beautiful  Early  English  building, 
comprising  a  nave  with  open  roof,  a  chancel  elaborately 
groined  in  stone,  and  a  S  vestry.  Back  Street  public 
school,  the  new  Burgh  public  school,  and  the  Roman 
Catholic  school,  \Wth  respective  accommodation  for  204, 
500,  and  235  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance 
of  107,  340,  and  135,  and  grants  of  £94,  15s.,  £239,  10s., 
and  £117,  9s. 

Under  the  successive  holders  of  castle  and  palace, 
Dalkeith  was  for  centuries  a  burgh  of  barony  ;  on  the 
abolition  of  hereditary  jurisdictions,  in  1747,  the  Duke 
claimed  £4000  for  the  regality,  and  was  allowed  £3400. 
In  terms  of  Acts  passed  between  1759  and  1825  twelve 
trustees  were  appointed,  of  whom  the  baron-bailie  was 
always  one  ;  but  in  1878  the  General  Police  Act  was 
adopted  after  repeated  rejection,  and  the  toi,\Ti  is  now 
governed  by  a  chief  magistrate,  2  other  magistrates,  and  9 
commissioners.  Valuation  (1882)  £27,806.  Pop.  (1841) 
4831,  (1851)  5086,  (1861)  5396,  (1871)  6386,(1881)  6711. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  of  Lugton  and 
the  greater  part  of  Whitehill  village,  is  bounded  NW 
by  Newton,  NE  by  Inveresk,  E  by  Cranston,  SE  and 
S  by  Newbattle,  and  SW  by  Lasswade.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  E  to  W,  is  3f  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth, 
from  N  to  S,  is  If  mile  ;  and  its  area  is  2345^  acres,  of 
which  IJ  are  water.  The  North  Esk  -u-inds  2|  miles, 
mostly  through  the  interior,  but  partly  along  the  Lass- 
wade and  Newton  borders,  till,  near  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish,  it  is  joined  by  the  South  Esk, 
which,  entering  from  Newbattle,  has  a  northerly  course 
here  of  2  miles.  As  the  river  Esk,  their  united  waters 
flow  on  1  furlong  north-eastward  along  the  Newtou 
boundary ;  and,  at  the  point  where  they  pass  into  In- 
veresk, the  surface  declines  to  100  feet  above  sea-level, 
thence  rising  gently  south-south-westward  and  south- 
eastward to  182  feet  at  Dalkeith  High  Street,  300  at 
Longside,  and  400  near  Easter  Cowdcn.  The  rocks 
belong  to  tlie  coal-measures  of  the  Carboniferous  forma- 
tion, and  coal  is  largely  worked,  whilst  an  extensive  bed 
of  brick  and  tile  clay  occurs  at  Newfarm  and  near  Gal- 
lowshall.  The  soil  is  generally  a  good  deep  loam,  with 
subsoil  of  clay  and  gravel ;  and  the  rent  of  the  land  is 
high,  particularly  tliat  occupied  by  gardens.  The  Duke 
of  Buccleuch  holds  about  seven-eigliths  of  the  entire 
parish,  2  other  proprietors  holding  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  31  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  52  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  113  of  from  £20  to 

337 


DALLACHY 

£50.  Part  of  Kestalrig  deanery  till  1592,  and  now  the 
seat  of  a  presbytery  in'tlie  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweed- 
dale,  Dalkeith  is  divided  ecclesiastically  into  East  and 
"West  parishes,  the  former  a  living  worth  £506.  Two 
schools  under  the  landward  board,  Dalkeith  public  and 
Whitehill  colliery,  with  respective  accommodation  for 
163  and  121  children,  liad  (ISSO)  an  average  attendance 
of  137  and  98,  and  tcrants  of  £128,  9s.  6d.  and  £36, 10s. 
Valuation  (1860)  £23,847  ;  (1882)  £34,868,  plus  £2154 
for  raUways  and  waterworks.  Pop.  (1801)  3906,  (1821) 
5169, (1841)  5830, (1861) 7114, (1871) 7667, (ISSl) 7707. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  32,  1857. 

The  presbytery  of  Dalkeith,  established  in  1581,  com- 
prises the  ancient  parishes  of  Borthwick,  Carrington, 
Cockpen,  Cranston,  Crichton,  Dalkeith,  Falaand  Soutra, 
Glencorse,  Heriot,  Inveresk,  Lasswade,  Newbattle,  New- 
ton, Ormiston,  Penicuik,  and  Temple  ;  the  quoad  sacra 
parishes  of  West  Dalkeith,  North  Esk,  Rosewell,  Roslin, 
and  Stobhill ;  and  the  chapelry  of  New  Craighall.  Pop. 
(1871)  45,099,  (1881)  50,932,  of  whom  8990  were  com- 
municants of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878. — The 
Free  Church  also  has  a  presbytery  of  Dalkeith,  compris- 
ing the  churches  of  Carlops,  Cockenzie,  Cockpen,  Dal- 
keith, Gorebridge,  Loanhead,  Musselburgh,  Ormiston, 
Penicuik,  Roslin,  and  Temple,  which  together  had  2688 
members  in  1881. 

Dallachy.    See  Bellie. 

Dallas,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  central  Elginshire. 
Tlie  village  stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lossie,  11 
miles  SW  of  Elgin,  and  84  SE  of  Forres,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  office. 

The  parish,  containing  also  Kellas  village,  3J  miles 
to  the  ENE,  is  bounded  N  by  Elgin,  E  by  Birnie,  SE 
by  Rothes  and  Knockando,  W  by  Edinkillie,  and  NW 
by  Rafford.  Rudely  triangular  in  outline,  it  has  an 
utmost  length  of  10^  miles  from  its  north-eastern  angle, 
near  Lennocside,  to  Carn  Kitt}-,  at  its  south-western 
apex  ;  an  utmost  breadth  from  E  to  W  of  7  J  miles  ;  and 
an  area  of  22,024|  acres,  of  which  122  are  water.  The 
Lossie,  issuing  from  Loch  Trevie,  near  the  south-western 
corner  of  the  jjarish,  winds  154  miles  north-north-east- 
ward and  east -north -eastward  through  the  interior, 
descending  in  this  course  from  1300  to  300  feet  above 
sea-level ;  near  Lennocside,  at  the  north-eastern  corner, 
it  is  joined  by  Lennoc  Burn,  flowing  4  miles  northward 
along  all  the  Birnie  border,  and  forming  a  waterfall,  the 
Ess  of  Glenlatterach  ;  whilst  Black  Burn,  another  of 
the  Lossie's  affluents,  runs  3f  miles  north-eastward  along 
all  the  boundary  with  Rafford,  thence  passing  off  into 
Elgin.  LodisDanas(3i  X  11  furl.) and  Trevie (1  x  ^furl.) 
lie  right  upon  the  Edinkillie  border ;  Loch  Coulatt  (1 J  x 
1  furl.)  falls  just  within  Knockando  ;  and  fifteen  loch- 
lets,  tinier  still,  are  dotted  over  the  south-western  in- 
terior. From  NE  to  SW  the  chief  elevations  to  the 
right  of  the  Lossie  are  Mill  Buie  (1100  feet).  Cairn  Uish 
(1197),  Meikle  Hill  (932),  Cas  na  Smorrach  (1146),  and 
Carn  Kitty  (1711) ;  to  the  left  rise  wooded  Mulundy  Hill 
(708),  another  Mill  Buie  (1216),  and  Carnache  (1179). 
These  hills  are  variously  arable,  planted,  and  heathy  ; 
the  straths  are  well  cultivated,  and  exhibit  much  natural 
beauty.  Granite  is  the  prevailing  rock,  but  sandstone 
and  grey  slate  have  both  been  quarried  ;  the  soil  is 
generally  light  loam  on  a  gravelly  bottom  along  the 
J.ossie,  a  vegetable  mould  incumbent  on  till  in  parts  of 
tlic  uplands,  and  moor  or  moss  along  the  southern  bor- 
der. Tor  Castle,  J-  mile  N  by  E  of  the  village,  was 
built  in  1400  by  Sir  Thomas  Gumming  of  Altyue,  and, 
lung  the  Cummings'  stronghold,  consists  now  only  of 
ruined  outworks  and  a  moat.  The  property  is  mostly 
"lividcd  among  three.  Dallas  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
I'orres  and  .synod  of  Moray  ;  the  living  is  worth  £188. 
The  present  church,  near  the  village,  was  built  in  1794, 
and  contains  250  sittings  ;  its  ancient,  heatlier-tliatched 
j)redece.ssor  was  dedicated  to  St  Michael ;  and  a  stone 
shaft,  12  feet  high,  in  the  kirkyard,  surmounted  by  a 
fleur-de-lis,  is  tlie  old  market-cross.  A  Free  church 
stands  J  mile  NE  of  the  village ;  and  two  public  schools, 
Dallas  and  Kellas  female,  witli  respective  accommoda- 
tion for  140  and  GO  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
338 


DALMELLINGTON 

attendance  of  85  and  27,  and  grants  of  £81,  9s.  6d.  and 
£18.  Valuation  (1881)  £5542,  12s.  Pop.  (1801)  818, 
(1841)  1179,  (1861)  1102,  (1871)  1060,  (ISSl)  915.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  85,  1876. 

Dallintober.     See  Dalintober. 

Dalmahoy  (Gael,  dail-ma-thuat.h,  'field  to  the  north'), 
a  mansion  in  Ratho  parish,  Edinburghshire,  1|  mile  S 
by  E  of  Ratho  village,  and  24  miles  W  by  N  of  Gurriehill 
station.  Built  partly  in  the  early  years  of  last  century, 
partly  at  subsequent  periods,  it  has  grounds  of  great 
beauty,  commanding  tine  distant  views,  and  open  to 
strangers.  The  estate,  having  belonged  from  1296  and 
earlier  to  the  family  of  Dalmahoy,  passed  in  the  middle 
of  the  17th  century  to  the  Dalrymples,  from  whom  it 
was  purchased  about  1750  by  the  seventeenth  Earl  of 
Jlorton  ;  and  Dalmahoy  is  now  the  chief  seat  of  Sholto- 
John  Douglas,  twentieth  Earl  of  Morton  since  1458  (b. 
1818  ;  sue.  1858),  who  holds  8944  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £9041  per  annum.  (See  also  Aberdour  and 
CoNA. )  Dalmahoy  Crags,  overlooking  the  Caledonian 
railway  IJ  mile  SSW  of  Dalmahoy  House,  rise  to  an 
altitude  of  680  feet  above  sea-level,  stoop  precipitously 
to  the  AV,  and  constitute  a  grand  feature  in  the  general 
landscape  of  the  Western  Lothians.  Dalmahoy  has  an 
Episcopal  chapel,  St  Mary's. 

Dalmally,  a  village  in  Glenorchy  parish,  Argyllshire, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Orchy,  near  the  north-eastern 
extremity  of  Loch  Awe,  with  a  station  on  the  Callander 
and  Oban  railway,  24J  miles  E  of  Oban,  62;^  WNW  of 
Stirling,  and  16  by  road  NNE  of  Inverary.  Nestling 
among  trees,  and  at  the  same  time  commanding  magnifi- 
cent views  of  the  basin  and  mountain  screens  of  Loch 
Awe,  it  is  a  favourite  resort  of  anglers,  and  has  a  post 
office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph 
departments,  an  hotel,  a  Free  church,  a  public  school, 
and  a  fair  on  the  Friday  of  October  after  Kilmichael ; 
whilst  on  an  islet  in  the  Orchy  here  stands  Glenorchy 
parish  church  (1811  ;  570  sittings),  an  octagonal  Gothic 
structure  with  a  spire. 

Dalmary.     See  Gartmore. 

Dalmelling.    See  Dalmullen. 

Dalmellington,  a  small  toAvn  and  a  parish  on  the  S 
border  of  Kyle  district,  Ayrshire.  The  town  stands, 
600  feet  above  sea-level,  in  a  recess  sheltered  by  hills, 
at  the  terminus  of  a  branch  (1856)  of  the  Glasgow  and 
South-Western,  f  mile  NE  of  the  Bogton  Loch  expan- 
sion of  the  river  Doon,  and  9  miles  SE  of  Hollybush,  15 
SE  of  Ayr,  51  SSW  of  Glasgow,  and  72  SW  of  Edin- 
burgh. Dating  from  the  11th  century,  and  a  burgh  of 
barony,  it  was  long  little  else  than  a  stagnating  village, 
but  in  recent  times  has  become  a  centre  of  traffic  in 
connection  with  new  neighbouring  iron-works  ;  at  it  are 
a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and 
telegraph  departments,  a  branch  of  the  Royal  Bank,  4 
insurance  agencies,  2  hotels,  gas-works,  a  reading-room 
and  library,  and  a  public  school,  erected  in  1875  at  a 
cost  of  £3000,  whilst  fairs  are  held  here  on  the  last 
Thursday  of  February  and  the  day  after  Moniaive,  i.e., 
on  the  second  or  third  Saturday  of  August.  The  parish 
church,  built  in  1846,  is  a  handsome  edifice  in  the  Saxon 
style,  with  a  lofty  tower  and  640  sittings ;  and  other 
places  of  worship  ai'e  a  Free  church  (400  sittings),  an 
Evangelical  Union  chapel,  and  the  Roman  Catholic 
church  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Rosary  (1860  ;  170  sittings). 
Pop.  (1801)  1299,  (1871)  1514,  (1881) 1453. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  mining  villages  of  Ben- 
quhat,  liurnfoothill,  Craigmark,  Lethanliill,  and  Water- 
side, is  bounded  N  by  Coylton  and  Ochiltree,  E  by  New 
Cumnock,  SE  by  Carsphairn  in  Kirkcudbrightshire,  SW 
by  Loch  Doon  and  Straiton.  Its  greatest  length,  from 
N  Wto  SE,  is  9^  miles ;  its  breadth,  from  NE  to  SW,  varies 
between  1^  and  4^  miles ;  and  its  area  is  17,9265  acres,  of 
which  144  are  water.  Locli  D(K)N,  with  utmost  length 
and  width  of  5|  miles  and  6^  furlongs,  lies  just  within 
Straiton,  680  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea;  and,  issuing 
from  it,  the  river  Doon  winds  lOJ  miles  north-westward 
along  all  the  rest  of  the  Straiton  border,  near  the  town 
expanding  into  Bogton  Loch  (6  x  2\  furl. ),  and  receiving 
Muck  Water  and  other  burns  from  the  interior.     On  the 


DALMELLINGTON 


DALMEN7 


Kirkcudbrightshire  border,  4  miles  SSE  of  the  town,  is 
Loch  Muck  (5xl|  fiud. ).  Below  Dalharco,  where  the 
Doon  quits  Dalmelliugton,  the  surface  sinks  to  500  feet 
above  sea-level,  thence  rising  eastward  and  south-east- 
ward to  1103  feet  near  Hillend,  986  on  Green  Hill,  1426 
on  Benquliat,  925  on  Craigmark  HUl,  1521  on  Bex- 
EEOCH,  1333  on  Benbain,  1107  on  Knockskae,  1621  on 
Bexbeack,  1760  on  Wixdy  Staxdakd,  1484  on  Camp- 
bell's Hill,  and  1071  on  Muckle  Eritf  Hill.  A  plain  or 
very  gentle  slope  lies  along  the  Doon  over  a  length  of 
about  3  miles  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town,  and,  measuring 
1  mUe  in  extreme  width  at  the  middle,  has  nearly  the 
figm-e  of  a  crescent,  narrowed  to  a  point  at  both  ex- 
tremities. The  surface  everywhere  beyond  that  plain 
rises  into  continuous  eminences  or  mountain  ridges,  of 
which  that  nearest  the  Doon  almost  blocks  its  com'se  at 
the  NW  angle  of  the  parish,  and  extends  away  eastward 
as  a  flank  to  the  plain,  till  it  terminates  abruptly,  to 
the  NE  of  the  town,  in  a  splendid  basaltic  colonnade  300 
feet  high  and  600  feet  long.  Two  other  ridges  run 
south-eastward  and  southward,  and  to  the  N  are  ad- 
joined by  a  ridge  extending  into  New  Cumnock.  The 
hills,  in  general,  have  easy  accli\dties,  and  in  only  three 
places,  over  short  distances,  are  precipitous ;  yet  they 
form  mountain  passes  of  picturesque  character,  in  one 
or  two  instances  of  high  grandeur.  Two  of  the  ridges, 
on  the  way  from  the  town  to  Kirkcudbrightshire,  ap- 
proach each  other  so  nearly  for  upwards  of  a  mile,  as  to 
leave  between  them  barely  sufficient  space  for  the  public 
road  and  the  bed  of  a  mountain-brook  ;  two  others 
which  flank  the  Doon  at  its  egress  from  mountain- 
cradled  Loch  Doon,  are  rocky  perpendicular  elevations, 
and  stand  so  close  to  each  other  for  about  a  mile,  as  to 
seem  cleft  asunder  by  some  powerful  agency  fi'om  above, 
or  torn  apart  by  some  convulsive  stroke  from  below. 
The  gorge  between  these  heights,  a  narrow,  lofty-faced 
]iass,  bears  the  name  of  the  Xess  Glen,  and  opens  at  its 
north-western  extremity  into  the  crescent-shap^jed  plain. 
The  springs  of  the  parish  are  pure,  limpid,  and  perennial, 
and  issue,  for  the  most  part,  from  beds  of  sand  and 
gravel.  The  rocks  are  partly  eruptive,  partly  Silurian, 
partly  carboniferous.  Sandstone,  limestone,  coal,  and 
ironstone  abound.  The  coal  belongs  to  the  most 
southerly  part  of  the  Ayrshire  coalfield,  is  of  excellent 
quality,  has  been  worked  in  numerous  pits,  and  aflords 
a  supply  not  only  to  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  but 
to  places  in  Galloway  30  miles  distant.  The  ironstone 
also  is  of  good  quality,  and  has  been  extensively  worked 
since  1847.  Iron-works  were  erected  in  that  year  at  the 
villages  of  "Waterside  and  Craigmark,  and  had  five  out 
of  eight  furnaces  in  blast  in  1879.  The  soil,  along  the 
river  side,  is  chiefly  a  deep  loam  ;  on  the  north-western 
acclivities,  is  a  wet  argillaceous  loam,  resting  on  sand- 
stone ;  on  the  hills  of  the  NE  and  E  is  moss  ;  and  on 
those  of  the  S  is  partly  peat  but  chiefly  light  dry  earth, 
incumbent  on  Silurian  rock.  About  1310  acres  are 
regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  750  under  wood,  and 
275  in  a  state  of  commonage,  whilst  about  1150,  now 
pastoral  or  waste,  are  capable  of  reclamation  for  the 
plough  ;  and  150  at  a  spot  |  mUe  below  the  to\\'n  are 
morass,  resting  on  a  spongy  bed,  and  embosoming  some 
oaks  of  considerable  si^e.  An  ancient  moat,  surrounded 
^vith  a  deep  dry  fosse,  and  supposed  to  have  been  a  seat 
of  feudal  justice  courts,  rises  on  the  SE  of  the  toA\'n  ;  and 
within  the  town  itself  an  edifice  lately^stood,  which, 
known  by  the  name  of  Castle  House,  is  said  to  have 
borne  date  1003  ( i),  and  supposed  to  have  been  constructed 
with  materials  from  a  previous  strong  castle  beyond 
the  moat.  Another  ancient  structure,  believed  to  have 
been  a  place  of  considerable  strength,  and  traditionally 
associated  with  a  shadowy  King  Alpin,  surmounted  a 
cliff  in  a  deep  glen,  and  was  protected  on  three  sides 
by  mural  precipices,  on  the  fourth  side  by  a  fosse.  The 
Roman  road  from  Ayr  to  Galloway  passed  through  the 
parish,  and  was  not  entirely  obliterated  till  1830.  Three 
very  large  cairns,  one  of  them  more  than  300  feet  in 
circumference,  were  formerly  on  the  hills.  Dalmelliug- 
ton figured  largely  in  the  Stuart  persecution  of  the 
Covenanters,  and  is  rich  in  traditions  respecting  their 


sufferings.  Mr  M'Adam  of  Craigengillan  and  Berbeth 
is  much  the  lai'gest  proprietor  ;  but  3  otliers  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  2  of  between  £10ft 
and  £500,  5  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  25  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Dalmellington  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and 
synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  the  living  is  worth  £212, 
Dalmellington,  Benquhat,  Craigmark,  Lethanhill,  and 
Waterside  schools,  with  respective  accommodation  for 
300,  203,  222,  292,  and  585  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  137,  149,  181,  216,  and  328,  and 
grants  of  £135,  8s.  6d.,  £123,  14s.  6d.,  £151,  13s.  6d., 
£150,  10s.,  and  £292,  13s.  Valuation  (1882)  £18,082, 
plus  £2987  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801)  787,  (1841)  1099, 
(1851)  2910,  (1861)  4194,  (1871)  6165,  (ISSl)  6384,  of 
whom  772  belonged  to  Benquhat,  525  to  Burnfoothill, 
383  to  Craigmark,  1165  to  Lethanhill,  and  1473  to 
Waterside.— 0/-rf.  Sur.,  shs.  14,  8,  1863. 

Dalmennoch,  a  small  bay  in  Inch  parish,  Wigtown- 
shire, on  the  E  side  of  Loch  Ryan,  3^  miles  NNE  of 
Stranraer.     It  has  excellent  anchorage. 

Dalmeny,  a  village  and  a  coast  parish  of  NE  Linlith- 
gowshire. The  village  stands  3  furlongs  N  by  E  of 
Dalmeny  station  on  the  Queensferry  branch  of  the 
North  British,  this  being  If  mile  SE  of  South  Queens- 
ferry  and  8|  miles  WNW  of  Edinburgh,  under  which 
there  is  a  post  office  of  Dalmeny  ;  a  pretty  little  place, 
it  commands  from  its  rising-gi-ound  a  fine  view  over  the 
neighbouring  Firth. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  hamlet  of  Craigie,  in- 
cludes the  island  of  Ixchgarvie,  but  since  1636  has 
excluded  the  roj'al  bm-gh  of  South  Queexsfeery,  which 
it  surrounds  on  all  the  landward  sides.  It  is  bounded 
N  by  the  Firth  of  Forth  (here  from  9  furlongs  to  3| 
miles  broad),  E  by  Cramond,  S  by  Corstorphine  in  Mid- 
lothian and  hj  Kirkliston,  and  W  by  Abercom.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  4|  miles  ;  its  \vidth, 
from  N  to  S,  varies  between  IJ  and  3  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  6797^  acres,  of  which  16f  are  water,  and  656 
belong  to  the  detached  Aldcathie  portion.  The  river 
Almoxd  winds  2J  mUes  east-north-eastward,  roughly 
tracing  all  the  Midlothian  border ;  and  Dolphington 
Burn  runs  to  the  Firth  through  the  interior,  whose  sur- 
face nowhere  much  exceeds  200  feet  above  sea-level.  It 
is,  however,  charmingly  diversified  by  the  three  rocky 
and  well-wooded  ridges  of  Dundas,  Mons,  and  Craigie, 
and  falls  rather  rapidly  northward  to  the  Firth,  where  the 
shore-line,  4f  miles  long,  is  backed  by  a  steepish  bank. 
The  rocks  belong  to  the  Calciferous  Sandstone  series, 
with  patches  of  basalt  intruding  at  South  QueensfeiTy, 
Dundas  Castle,  Craigiehall,  and  Hound  Point,  and  a 
larger  one  of  diorite  over  much  of  Dalmeny  Park.  The 
soil  of  Aldcathie  and  of  the  higher  grounds  is  generally 
a  shallow  clay,  on  a  cold  bottom  ;  but  that  of  the  slopes 
and  low  gi'ounds  is  a  fertile  loam,  whereon  thrive  first- 
rate  crops  of  wheat,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  as  also  the 
luxuriant  and  pictui'esque  plantations  of  the  Earl  of 
Roseberv.  Noteworthy  are  two  ash-trees  at  Craigiehall, 
which,  80  and  90  feet  high,  girth  10;^  and  16  feet  at  1 
foot  from  the  ground.  Employment,  other  than  that 
of  agriculture  and  those  connected  with  South  Queens- 
ferry,  is  furnished  by  recently-established  oilworks. 
John  Durie,  a  learned  divine  and  would-be  uniter  of 
divided  churches,  was  minister  from  1648  to  1656  ; 
and  William  Wilkie,  D.D.  (1721-72),  eccentric  author 
of  the  forgotten  Epigoniad,  was  born  at  Echline  farm. 
In  1C62  Sir  Archibald  Primrose,  Bart.,  lord-clerk-regis- 
ter of  Scotland  and  a  lord  of  session,  late  lord-justice- 
general,  purchased  from  the  fourth  Earl  of  Haddington 
the  barony  of  Barnbougle  and  Dalmeny ;  his  third 
son,  Archibald,  was,  in  1700,  created  Baron  Primrose 
and  Dalmeny  and  Viscount  Rosebery,  in  1703  Earl  of 
Rosebery  ;  and  his  fifth  descendant,  Archibald  Philip 
Primrose  (b.  1847  ;  sue.  1868),  holds  24,220  acres  in  Mid 
and  West  Lothian,  valued  at  £24,844  per  annum  (£2616 
for  minerals).  See  Rosebery  and  JIallexy.  On  3 
Sept.  1842,  a  very  wot  day,  the  Queen  and  Prince  Albert 
drove  over  to  lunch  at  Dalmeny.  The  jiark  is  described 
in  her  Joui'nal  as  '  beautiful,  with  trees  growing  down 
to  the  sea.     It  commands  a  very  fine  view  of  the  Firth, 

339 


DALMIGAVIE 

the  Isle  of  May,  the  Bass  Rock,  and  of  Edinburgh.  The 
grounds  are  very  extensive,  being  hill  and  dale  and 
wood  The  house  is  quite  modern  ;  Lord  Rosebery 
built  it,  and  it  is  very  pretty  and  comfortable.'  On  16 
Aug.  1877  Her  Majesty  again  visited  Dalmeny  Park. 
Other  mansions,  both  separately  noticed,  are  Dundas 
Castle  and  Craigiehall.  Dalmeny  is  in  the  presbji:ery 
of  Linlithgow  and  s}Tiod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ; 
the  li\'ing  is  worth  £434.  The  church,  at  the  village, 
contains  350  sittings,  and,  consisting  of  nave  and  chancel, 
is  the  most  perfect  specimen  of  Norman  architecture  to 
be  found  in  Scotland.  "Without,  the  chief  feature  is  '  the 
main  entrance  door  in  a  porch  projecting  to  the  S,  the 
archway  of  which  is  supported  on  two  plain  pillars  with 
Norman  capitals.  There  are  over  this  door  the  remains 
of  a  line,  concentric  with  the  arch,  of  sculptured  figures 
and  animals,  many  of  which  are  fabulous,  and  bear  a 
considerable  resemblance  to  those  which  appear  on  the 
ancient  sculptured  stones.  .  .  .  The  interior  has  a  fine 
massive  simple  effect.  The  small  chancel,  lower  than 
the  rest  of  the  church,  is  in  the  form  of  an  apse,  con- 
sisting of  a  semicircle  with  the  arc  outwards,  under  a 
groined  arch,  the  ribs  of  which  are  deeply  moulded  and 
ornamented  with  tooth-work.'  So  wrote  Dr  John  Hill 
Burton  in  Billings'  Antiquities  (1845);  and  at  Dalmeny 
that  able  antiquary  and  historian  was  fitly  buried,  13 
Aug.  1881.  Two  public  schools,  under  a  common 
school-board,  Dalmeny  and  South  Queensferry,  with 
respective  accommodation  for  160  and  275  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  102  and  149,  and  grants 
of  £82,  7s.  and  £101,  lOs.  Valuation  (1860)  £11,404, 
(1882)  £17,251,  8s.  9d.  Pop.  of  parish  (1801)  765,  (1831) 
1291,  (1861)  1274,  (1871)  1492,  (1881)  1643,  of  whom  612 
were  in  South  Queensferry  parliamentary  burgh  ;  of 
registration  district  (1871)916,  (1881)  Wil.—Ord.  Sur., 
8h.  32,  1857. 

Daimigavie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Moy  and 
Dalarossie  parish,  NE  Inverness-shire,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  upper  Findhorn,  19  miles  SSW  of  Tomatin. 
Its  OAvner,  .ffineas  Mackintosh,  Esq.  (b.  1813),  holds 
7000  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £489  per  annum. 

Dalmonach.     See  Boxhill. 

Dalmore,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Stair  parish, 
Ayrshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Ajt,  3  miles  S  of 
Tarbolton. 

Dalmore,  a  seaport  village  in  Rosskeen  parish,  Ross- 
flhire,  on  the  Cromarty  Firth,  f  mile  SE  of  Alness  station, 
and  25  miles  W  of  Invergordon.  From  Belleport  pier, 
J  mile  to  the  E,  considerable  quantities  of  timber  are 
shipped  for  the  N  of  England ;  and  there  are  also  a 
distiller}-,  a  flour-mill,  and  a  steam  saw-mill. 

Dalmuir,  a  burn  and  a  village  in  Old  Kilpatrick 
parish,  Dumbartonshire.  The  burn  rises  among  the 
Kilpatrick  Hills  in  Cochno  and  other  head-streams,  col- 
lecting which  in  the  north-eastern  vicinity  of  Duntocher 
it  thence  runs  2^  miles  south-westward  to  the  Clyde. 
The  village  stands  on  the  burn,  3  furlongs  above  its 
mouth,  and  1|  mile  SE  of  Kilpatrick  village,  with  a 
station  on  the  Dumbarton  section  of  the  North  British, 
9f  miles  NW  by  W  of  Glasgow,  under  which  it  has  a 
post  office.  Near  it  are  chemical  works  and  the  huge 
Clydebank  shipbuilding  yard  and  engineering  works, 
whli-li  cover  30  acres,  and  employ  2000  men. 

Dalmullin  or  Dalmelling,  a  place  in  St  Quivox  parish, 
Ayrshire,  If  mile  E  by  N  of  Ayr.  A  Gilbertine  priory 
was  founded  here  in  1230  by  Walter,  Lord  High  Steward 
of  Scotland ;  but  in  1238  it  became  a  cell  of  Paisley 
Abbey. 

Daimyot.    See  Du.vmy.\t. 

Dalnacardoch,  a  .shooting-lodge  (erst  a  stage-coach 
hostelry)  in  I>lair  Athole  parish,  Perthshire,  on  the 
great  Highland  road  from  Pertli  to  Inverness,  and  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Garry,  6  J  miles  WNW  of  Struan  station. 
Here  Prince  Charles  Edward  passed  the  night  of  29  Aug. 
1745  ;  and  here  on  9  Oct.  1861  the  Queen  and  Prince 
Consort,  travelling  incognito,  had  '  a  shal)l)y  pair  of 
horses  put  in,  with  a  shabby  driver  driving  from  the  bo.\.' 

Dalnaspidal  (Gael,  dail-an-spi'leal,  'field  of  the  hos- 
pice'), a  station  on  the  Highland  railway  in  Blair 
340 


DALEY 

Athole  parish,  Peri;hshire,  within  5  furlongs  of  the  foot 
of  Loch  Garry,  and  15f  miles  WNW  of  "Blair  Athole 
village.  Near  it  is  a  shooting-lodge  of  the  Duke  of 
Athole  ;  and,  named  after  an  ancient  hospitium  or  small 
inn,  it  lies  amid  a  wild,  bleak,  alpine  tract,  where 
numerous  standing  stones  and  cairns  mark  the  graves  of 
persons  who  fell  in  battle  or  perished  in  the  snow.  A 
party  of  Cromwell's  troops,  encamping  here,  were 
attacked  and  worsted  bj'  the  men  of  Athole  and  some  of 
the  Camerons  of  Lochiel ;  and  here,  on  the  night  of  16 
March  1746,  Lord  George  Murray  divided  the  force  with 
which  he  proposed  to  take  Blair  Castle. 

Dalnavert,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Alvie  parish, 
Inverness-shire,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Spey,  1^ 
mile  ENE  of  Kincraig  station. 

Dalness,  a  shooting-lodge  in  Ardchattan  parish,  Argjdl- 
shire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Etive,  5i  miles  NNE  of 
the  head  of  Loch  Etive,  and  18  NE  of  TaynuUt.  The 
Etive  here  makes  a  very  fine  waterfall. 

Dalnotter  House,  a  mansion  in  Old  Kilpatrick  parish, 
Dumbartonshire,  adjacent  to  the  Clyde,  f  mile  SE  ot 
Old  Kilpatrick  village. 

Dalpersie  or  Terpersie,  a  small  old  castellated  mansion 
(now  a  farraliou.se)  in  Tullyuessle  parish,  Aberdeenshire, 
1  mile  NW  of  Tullyuessle  church. 

Dalquhaxran  Castle,  a  fine  mansion  in  Dailly  parish, 
Ayrshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  Girvan  Water,  5  furlongs 
E  of  Dailly  station,  this  being  7f  miles  SSW  of  Maybole. 
Built  about  1790,  it  was  the  seat  of  the  Right  Hon. 
Thos.  Fran.  Kennedy  (1788-1879),  who  sat  for  the  Ajt 
burghs  from  1818  till  1884,  and  whose  son  and  successor, 
Fran.  Thos.  Romilly  Kennedy,  Esq.  (b.  1842),  holds 
4142  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £5941  per  annum,  in- 
cluding £900  for  minerals. 

Dalquhum.     See  Renton. 

Dalree.     See  Dalry. 

Dalreoch,  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Cardross  parish, 
Dumbartonshire,  with  a  station  on  the  Vale  of  Leven 
raihva}',  ^  mile  N  by  W  of  Dumbarton.  Constituted  in 
1873,  it  includes  the  Dumbarton  suburbof  West  Bridgend, 
and  is  in  the  presljytery  of  Dumbarton  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ajt.  Stipend  £120.  The  church,  in  West 
Bridgend,  was  erected  iu  1871,  and  is  a  handsome  edifice. 
Pop.  (ISSl)  3634. 

Dalrigh.     See  Dalry. 

Dalruadhain.    See  Campbeltown. 

Dairy,  a  town  and  a  parish  in  Cunninghame  district, 
AjTshire.  The  town  stands  on  a  rising-ground  between 
Rye  and  Caaf  Waters,  and  at  the  right  side  of  the  river 
Garnock,  3  furlongs  W  by  N  of  Dairy  Junction  on  the 
main  line  of  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  railwaj', 
this  being  15^  miles  SW  of  Paisley,  22i  SW  of  Glasgow, 
70i  WSW  of  Edinburgh,  Hi  NW  of  Kilmarnock,  9  NE 
of  Ardrossan,  6if  N  by  W  of  Irvine,  and  17^  N  by  W  of 
AjT.  A  tract  of  countrj'  around  it  was  anciently  under 
special  royal  jurisdiction,  and  bore  the  name  of  the 
King's  District  or  Valley  (Gael,  dail-righ)  ;  and  a  field 
on  which  its  first  houses  were  built  was  called  the  King's 
Field  (Gael,  croftanrigh),  a  name  that  it  still  retains 
in  the  slightly  modified  form  of  Croftangry.  The  parish 
church,  St  Margaret's,  dependent  once  upon  Kilwin- 
ning Abbey,  and  originally  occupying  a  different  site, 
was  rebuilt  on  that  field  about  the  year  1608,  and  gave 
origin  to  the  town.  The  site  is  eligible  enough  for  a 
seat  of  traffic  and  industry,  and  commands  an  extensive 
southward  and  north-eastward  view ;  but,  owing  to 
great  freshets  in  the  Garnock,  the  Rj'e,  and  the  Caaf,  it 
sometimes  has  almost  the  aspect  of  an  island.  The 
town  was  long  no  more  than  a  petty  hamlet,  in  1700 
comprising  but  six  dwelling-houses,  and  about  the  be- 
ginning of  this  century  numbering  barely  800  inhabit- 
ants ;  afterwards  it  rose  somewhat  speedily  to  the 
dimensions  of  a  smallish  town,  with  a  population  of 
about  2000  in  1835.  Some  nine  j-ears  later  it  started 
into  sudden  importance  as  a  seat  of  business  for  the 
great  neighbouring  iron-works  of  Blair  and  Glengar- 
XOCK  ;  and  then  assumed,  along  with  its  environs,  an 
appearance  so  different  from  what  it  had  borne  before, 
that  a  visitor  acquainted  with  it  only  in  its  former  cor- 


DALRY 


DALEY 


(lition  woiild  hardly  have  kuo\TO  it  for  the  same  place. 
Now  consisting  of  twelve  streets,  it  contains  great 
numbers  of  well-built  modern  houses  and  not  a  few  ex- 
cellent shops,  and  has  a  post  office,  ■with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  telegi'aph  departments, 
branches  of  the  British  Linen  Co.,  Clydesdale,  and 
Union  banks,  16  insurance  agencies,  4  hotels,  gas-works, 
town  buildings,  with  library  and  reading-room,  a  Good 
Templars'  hall,  assembly  rooms,  3  woollen  factories,  a 
worsted  mill,  an  oil  and  stearine  factory,  etc.  Thurs- 
day is  market-day,  and  a  fair  is  held  on  .31  July  and  1 
August.  A  gravitation  water  supply,  capable  of  afford- 
ing 130,000  gallons  per  diem,  has  been  introduced  at  a 
cost  of  £9000  ;  and  in  the  centre  of  the  town  is  a  hand- 
some granite  fountain.  The  parish  church  was  rebuilt  in 
1771,  and  again  in  1S71-73,  the  present  being  a  cniciform 
Gothic  edifice,  with  1100  sittings,  stained  ^vindows  of 
Munich  glass,  and  a  tower  and  spire  124  feet  high. 
Other  places  of  worship  are  the  AVest  Established  church, 
a  Free  church,  a  U.  P.  church  (508  sittings),  and  St 
Palladius'  Roman  Catholic  church  (1851  ;  500  sittings). 
Besides  a  j^ublic  school  at  Burxside  and  Kersland 
Barony  school  at  Dex,  the  3  public  schools  of  Blair- 
mains,  Townend,  and  AYest  End  (enlarged  at  a  cost  of 
£3000),  and  Dairy  female  industrial  Church  of  Scotland 
school,  with  respective  accommodation  for  100,  296, 
625,  and  192  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance 
of  44,  293,  476,  and  166,  and  grants  of  £32,  13s.,  £263, 
8s.,  £449,  6s.,  and  £130,  3s.  Pop.  (1851)  2706,  (1861) 
4232,  (1871) 4133,  (1881)  4021. 

The  jmrish  contains  also  the  villages  of  Blair  AVorks, 
Burnside,  Den,  Drakemyre,  and  Riddens,  with  part  of 
Glengarnock.  A^ery  irregular  in  outline,  it  is  bounded 
N  by  Kilbirnie,  NE  by  Beith,  SE  by  Kilwinning,  S  by 
Kihvinniug  and  Ardrossan,  AV  by  AVest  Kilbride,  and 
NAV  by  Largs.  Its  utmost  length,  from  KXAV  to  SSE, 
is  9  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  EXE  to  AA^SAV,  varies 
between  J  mile  and  6|  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  19,361 
acres,  of  which  77  are  water.  The  river  Girxock,  com- 
ing in  from  Kilbirnie,  flows  6|  miles  south-by-westward 
through  the  interior  and  along  the  Kilbirnie  and  Kil- 
winning borders  ;  it  is  followed  throughout  this  course 
by  the  Glasgow  and  South-AVestern  railway,  and  receives 
on  the  right  hand  Rye  and  Caaf  AVaters,  and  Bombo 
Burn  and  Dusk  AA^'ater  on  the  left.  The  surface,  sinking 
in  the  extreme  S  to  85  feet  above  sea-level,  thence 
rises  north-eastward  to  239  feet  at  Muirhead,  334  at 
Bowertrapping,  and  357  near  East  Middlebank — north- 
north-westward  and  northward  to  302  near  Linn  House, 
869  at  Gill  Hill,  1099  at  Baidlaxd  Hill,  1216  at  Cock 
Law,  1261  at  Green  Hill,  652  at  Carwinxixg  Hill,  and 
1378  at  Rough  HlU,  whose  summit,  however,  falls  just 
A\ithin  Largs.  The  rocks  are  partly  eruptive,  partly  car- 
boniferous. Limestone  has  long  been  largely  worked  ; 
and  coal  is  mined  of  excellent  quality,  partly  in  seams 
from  2|  to  5  feet  thick.  Ironstone,  of  very  rich  quality, 
began  to  be  worked  about  1845,  when  two  farms  which 
had  been  sold  to  the  Glengarnock  Iron  Company  for 
£18,000  were  shortly  afterwards  resold  to  the  Blair 
Iron  Company  for  £35,000.  Agates  have  been  found  in 
the  bed  of  the  Rye.  The  soil  along  the  Girnock  is  deep 
alluvial  loam,  and  to  the  E  of  it  is  chiefly  thin,  cold, 
retentive  clay.  In  some  parts  to  the  AV  of  the  Girnock, 
it  is  an  adhesive  clay  ;  along  the  base  of  the  hills,  has 
generally  a  light  dry  character,  incumbent  on  either 
limestone  or  trap ;  and  elsewhere  is  often  reclaimed  moss. 
Antiquities,  other  than  those  of  Blair  and  Carwinning, 
are  cairns  and  a  moat  near  the  to^vn — the  Courthill 
Mound,  which,  excavated  in  the  winter  of  1872,  was 
found  to  contain  large  deposits  of  human  bones  and 
ashes.  The  Blairs  have  been  lairds  of  Blair  for  wellnigh 
seven  centuries  ;  one  of  the  line.  Sir  Bryce,  was  foully 
murdered  at  Ayr  by  the  English  in  1296.  Anotlier  of 
Dairy's  worthies  was  Sir  Robert  Cunningham,  physician 
to  Charles  II.  ;  and  Captain  Thomas  Craufurd  of 
Jordanhill  (1530-1603),  who  gallantly  took  Dumbartox 
Castle  in  1571,  spent  the  close  of  his  life  at  Kersland. 
The  chief  mansions  are  Blair,  Gifl"en,  Kirklaxd, 
Linn,   Maulside,  Ryefield,    Swindridgemuir,   Swinlees, 


and  AA^'aterside  ;  and  8  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  43  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  32  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  88  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Dairy  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Irvine  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  the  living  is  worth  £364.  AA'^est  and 
Kersland  Barony  churches  are  chapels  of  ease.  A^alua- 
tion  (1860)  £70,893  ;  (1882)  £44,227  ;  ^J^iW  £6798  for 
railways.  Pop.  (1801)  832,  (1831)  1246,  (1841)  4791, 
(1851)  8865,  (1861)  11,156,  (1871)  10,885,  (1881)  10,215. 
—Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Dairy,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  N  Kirkcudbrightshire. 
The  village  stands,  200  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Ken,  near  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
parish,  3^  miles  NNAV  of  New  GaUoway,  and  9|  NAV 
by  N  of  Parton  station,  with  which  it  communicates 
t\vice  a  day  by  omnibus.  Called  variously  Dairy, 
Claughan  of  Dahy,  and  St  John's  Town  of  Dairy,  it 
offers  a  picturesque  assemblage  of  houses,  irregularly 
scattered  over  a  considerable  space  of  gi'ound,  with 
gardens,  hedges,  and  rows  of  trees  ;  at  it  are  a  post 
and  telegi-aph  office,  a  branch  of  the  Union  Bank,  a 
good  hotel,  and  a  public  hall  (1858).  Pop.  (1861)  639, 
(1871)  637,  (1881)  585. 

The  parish  was  anciently  one  with  Kells,  Balmaclellan, 
and  Carsphairn,  comprising  the  entire  district  of  Glen- 
kens,  and  had  several  chapels,  all  subordinate  to  a 
mother  church.  It  is  bounded  NAV  by  New  Cumnock, 
in  Ayrshire  ;  N  by  Sanquhar  and  NE  by  Penpont, 
in  Dumfriesshire  ;  E  b}-  Tjmron  and  Glencairn,  also  in 
Dumfriesshire ;  SE  by  Balmaclellan  ;  SAA^  by  Kells  ;  and 
AV  by  Kells  and  Carsphairn.  Its  utmost  length,  from 
N  by  E  to  S  by  AV,  is  15 J  mUes  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to 
AA'',  varies  between  1^  and  71  mUes ;  and  its  area  is 
34,729|  acres,  of  which  194  are  water.  In  the  extreme 
N,  close  to  the  meeting-point  of  Kirkcudbright,  Ayr, 
and  Dumfries  shires,  the  AVater  of  Kex  rises  at  1870 
feet  above  sea-level,  and  thence  winds  21J  miles  south- 
south-westward  and  south -south -eastward,  mainly 
along  the  Carsphairn  and  Kells  borders  ;  it  is  joined  by 
Carroch  Burn,  Black  AA'ater,  Earlston  Bum,  and 
other  streams  from  the  interior,  and  by  Garpel  Burn, 
which  rims  south-westward  along  the  boundary  with 
Balmaclellan.  That  with  Glencairn  is  traced  for  2;^  miles 
by  Castlefern  Burn  ;  and  in  the  interior  are  these  four 
lakes,  Avith  utmost  length  and  breadth  and  altitude, — 
Lochixvar  (4|-  X  2h  furl.  ;  770  feet),  Knocksting 
(IJ  X  li  furl.  ;  980  feet),  Regland  (1^  x  ^  furl.  ;  900 
feet),  and  Knockman  (IJ  x  ^  furl.  ;  875  feet).  At  the 
southern  extremity,  where  the  Ken  quits  the  parish, 
the  surface  sinks  to  165  feet  above  sea-level,  thence 
rising  northward  and  north-eastward  to  559  feet  near 
Kirkland,  825  near  Gordonston,  700  at  Ardoch  Hill, 
1062  at  Corse  Hill,  1127  at  Stroan  Hill,  1262  at  AVether 
HUl,  950  at  Mackilston  Hill,  1127  at  Gleushimeroch 
Hill,  1154  at  Lochlee  Hill,  1188  at  Fingland  Hill,  1300 
near  Cornharrow,  1376  at  ManwhUl,  1900  at  *Benbrack, 
1750  at  Coranbac  Hill,  1900  at  *Ewe  Hill,  2063  at 
*Alwhat,  and  2100  a*  Lorg  Hill,  where  asterisks  mark 
those  summits  that  culminate  on  the  borders  of  the 
parish.  Granite  and  trap  are  the  prevailing  rocks  ;  but 
lalue  slate  occurs,  and  has  been  quarried.  The  southern 
district  consists  in  gi'eat  measure  of  rich  arable  land 
and  fertile  holms,  interspersed  with  wood  ;  the  northern 
is  all  an  assemblage  of  swelling  liills  and  heathy  moun- 
tains. A  pavement,  found  at  Chapelyards,  on  Bogue 
farm,  in  1868,  is  thought  to  mark  the  site  of  a  religious 
house  ;  and  besides  several  moats,  cairns,  and  hill-forts, 
there  are  remains  of  a  stronghold  on  an  islet  in  Lochin- 
var,  a  trench — the  'AA^highole' — near  the  top  of  a  hill 
on  Altrye  farm,  the  Gordons'  old  tower  of  Earlston, 
and,  at  the  village,  a  large  stone,  known  as  St  John's 
Chair.  David  Landsborough,  D.D.  (1782-1854),  poet 
and  naturalist,  was  a  native  ;  so,  too,  was  John  Gordon 
Barliour  (1775-1843),  author  of  several  works,  and 
a  friend  of  Hogg  and  'Christopher  North.'  He  is 
buried  in  the  churchyard,  where  also  rest  three  mar- 
tyred Covenanters.  The  old  church  was  associated 
with  a  Tam-o'-Shanter-like  legend,  and  in  it  Grierson 
of  Lag  stabled  his  troopers'  horses  ;  whilst  at  this  vil- 

341 


DALRY 

lage  originated  the  great  Covenanters'  rising,  that  ended 
at  Rullion  Green.  Three  proprietors  hold  each  an  an- 
nual value  of  £500  and  upwards,  3  of  between  £100 
and  £500,  3  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  13  of  from  £20 
to  £50.  Dalrj-  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcudbright 
and  synod  of  Galloway  ;  the  living  is  worth  £337.  The 
]n-esent  parish  church  was  built  in  1S32  at  a  cost  of 
£1400,  and  contains  700  sittings.  At  the  village  is  also 
a  U.P.  church  (1826  ;  200  sittings) ;  and  Glenkens  Free 
church  stands  at  Bogue,  li  nnle'to  the  E.  Three  public 
schools— Corseglass,  Dairy,  and  Stroanfreggan— with  re- 
spective accommodation  for  37,  125,  and  32  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  12,  105,  and  10,  and 
grants  of  £27,  2s.,  £78,  lis.  8d.,  and  £25,  9s.  Valua- 
tion (1860)  £7792,  (1882)  £13.275,  13s.  4d.  Pop.  (1801) 
832,  (1831)  1246, (1861)  1149,  (1871)  1074, (1881)  988. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  9,  1863. 

Dairy.     See  EDiXBuncir. 

Dairy,  Dalrigh,  or  Dalree,  a  place  in  the  W  of  Killin 
parish,  W  Perthshire,  near  StrathfiUan  Free  church, 
and  li  mile  SE  of  Tyndrum  station.  It  was  the  scene 
in  1306  of  a  sharp  skirmish  between  Robert  Bruce  and 
^lacdougal  of  Lorn,  when  the  famous  Brooch  of  Lorn, 
graphically  described  in  Scott's  Lord  of  the  Isles,  and 
said  to  be  still  in  possession  of  the  Macdougals  of  Dun- 
oily,  was  torn  from  Bruce. 

Dalrymple,  a  village  and  a  parish  on  the  SW  bor- 
der of  Kyle  district,  Ayrsliire.  The  village,  a  pleasant 
little  place,  stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Doou,  9  fur- 
longs SE  of  Dalr3Tnple  station  on  the  Ajt  and  Girvan 
section  of  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western,  this  being 
4^  miles  SSE  of  Ayr,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 
Near  it  is  a  pirn  mill,  supplying  the  Paisley  Anchor 
Thread  Co.     Pop.  (1861)  261,  (1871)  309,  (1881)  300. 

The  parish,  containing  also  Skkluon  JIills,  is  bounded 
NW  by  Ayr,  NE  and  E  by  Coylton,  SE  by  Dalmelling- 
ton,  S  by  Straiton  and  Kirkmichael,  and  W  by  May- 
bole.  Its  utmost  length,  from  WNW  to  ESE,  is  7^ 
miles ;  its  breadth,  from  NE  to  SW,  varies  between  \^ 
and  4|  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  7960  acres,  of  which  127| 
are  water.  The  'bonny  Doox,'  running  amidst  alter- 
nations of  bold  and  wooded  banks  and  fertile  haughs, 
winds  lOf  miles  west-north-westward  along  all  the  Kirk- 
michael and  Maybole  boundary ;  and  Loch  ilAUTNAHAM, 
»vith  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  1\  and  ^  mile,  lies 
on  the  Coylton  border  290  feet  above  sea-level,  and  sends 
off  a  rivulet  south-westward  to  the  Doon.  In  the  interior 
are  Lochs  Snipe  (1-J^xi  furh)  and  Kerse  (3x1  furl.). 
Where  the  Doon  quits  the  parish,  near  Macmanniestou, 
the  surface  sinks  to  120  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising 
to  305  near  Balsarroch,  379  near  Merkland,  417  near  Ben- 
ston,  533  at  Laurieston,  545  at  Knockshinnoch,  1112  at 
Bow  Hill,  and  1406  at  Kilmein  Hill — little  roiinded 
eminences  that  command  extensive  and  varied  views  over 
land  and  firth  to  Arran,  Ben  Lomond,  and  the  Grampians. 
The  rocks  are  partly  eruptive,  but  chiefly  Devonian  and 
carboniferous  ;  and  limestone  and  ironstone  are  worked. 
The  soil  on  a  few  of  the  eminences  is  barren  clay,  on 
most  is  argillaceous  loam,  and  on  the  lands  along  the 
streams  and  lochs  is  a  sandy  or  gravelly  loam.  Some 
1900  acres  ai"e  hill  pasture  or  meadow,  about  500  are 
under  wood,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  land  is  arable. 
The  chief  antiquities  are  remains  of  three  Caledonian 
forts  and  traces  of  the  Roman  road  to  Ayr.  Dalrymple 
barony,  belonging  in  the  13th  century  to  a  family  of 
its  own  name,  from  which  are  descended  the  Earls  of 
Stair,  passed  in  1371-77  to  John  Kennedy  of  Dunure, 
ancestor  of  the  Marquis  of  Ailsa  and  Earl  of  Cassillis, 
who  is  at  present  chief  proprietor.  Mansions  are  Shel- 
don and  Hollybush  ;  and  4  proprietors  besides  the  Mar- 
quis hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards, 
2  of  between  £100  and  £500,  and  5  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Dalrymple  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  the  living  is  worth  £394.  The 
church,  near  the  village,  was  built  in  1849.  There  is 
also  a  Free  church  (1863) ;  and  Dalrj'mple  public  school 
and  the  Dalmellington  Iron-works  srhool  at  Kerse,  with 
respective  accommodation  for  150  and  165  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  129  and  135,  and  grants 
342 


DALSERF 

of  £107,  9s.  and  £101,  13s.  Valuation  (1882)  £11,742, 
lis.  8d.,  i)lus  £4451  for  railways.  Pop.  (1801)  514, 
(1831)  964,  (1861)  1325,  (1871)  1412,  (1881)  1362.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  14,  1863. 

Dalserf,  a  Clydesdale  village  and  parish  in  the  Middle 
Ward  of  Lanarkshire.  The  village,  standing  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Clyde,  1  mile  E  of  Ayr-Road  station,  3  miles 
ESE  of  Larkhall,  and  7  SE  of  Hamilton,  was  formerly  a 
place  of  some  size  and  importance,  but  has  long  been 
going  steadily  into  decay,  and  now  consists  of  only  a 
few  low-roofed  cottages,  situated  among  gardens. 

The  parish,  which  also  contains  the  villages  of  Mill- 
IIEUGU  and  Rosebank,  and  most  of  the  town  of  Lakk- 
HALL,  formed  anciently  the  chapelry  of  JMachan  under 
Cadzow  or  Hamilton,  itself  being  known  as  Machanshire ; 
and,  having  passed  from  the  Comyns  to  the  royal  Bruces, 
and  from  them  again  to  an  ancestor  of  the  Duke  of  Hamil- 
ton, was  afterwards  divided  among  junior  branches  of 
the  Hamilton  family,  and,  probably  about  the  era  of  the 
Reformation,  was  constituted  a  parish,  taking  name  from 
Dalserf  village.  It  is  bounded  NW  by  Hamilton,  NE  by 
Cambusnethan  and  Carluke,  SE  by  Lesmahagow,  and 
SW  by  Stonehouse.  Kite-shax3ed  in  outline,  it  has  an 
utmost  length  from  N  by  W  to  S  by  E  of  5§  miles,  an 
utmost  breadth  from  E  to  W  of  3^  miles,  and  an  area  of 
7035f  acres,  of  which  79^  are  water.  The  Clyde  winds 
4g  miles  north-westward  along  all  the  Carluke  and  Cam- 
busnethan border  ;  Cander  Water  2:^  miles  north-north- 
westward to  the  Avon  along  the  Stonehouse  border ; 
and  Avon  Water  itself  3|  miles,  also  north-north-west- 
ward along  the  Stonehouse  and  Hamilton  border.  Where 
the  Clyde  Cjuits  the  parish,  opposite  Lower  Carbarn,  the 
surface  sinks  to  less  than  100  feet  above  sea-level,  thence 
rising  to  345  feet  beyond  Larkhall,  477  at  Strutherhill, 
576  at  Canderdikehead,  and  623  at  Cander  Moss,  in  the 
southern  corner  of  the  parish,  whose  interior  forms  a 
sort  of  plateau  between  the  Clyde  and  the  Avon.  The 
rocks  are  chiefly  of  the  Carboniferous  formation.  Coal 
abounds,  and  is  extensively  mined  at  Ashgill,  Broomhill, 
Canderside,  Cornsilloch,  Skcllyton,  etc. ;  ironstone  is 
known  to  be  plentiful ;  and  sandstone,  of  quality  to 
furnish  excellent  building  blocks,  is  largely  quarried. 
The  soil,  along  the  Clyde,  is  rich  alluvium  ;  on  the  banks 
rising  steeply  from  the  Clyde,  is  of  various  quality  ;  and, 
on  the  higher  grounds,  is  mostly  strong  heavy  clay. 
All  the  land,  except  a  small  patch  or  two  of  moss,  is 
either  regularly  or  occasionally  cultivated.  The  tract 
adjacent  to  the  Clyde  lies  almost  in  the  heart  of  the 
luxuriant  range  of  the  Clydesdale  orchards,  and  was 
famed  for  its  fruit  from  ver}'  early  times  ;  but,  o\\4ng  to 
frequent  failure  of  crops  and  increasing  importation  of 
fruit  from  England,  Ireland,  and  foreign  countries,  has 
ceased  to  be  exclusively  devoted  to  orchard  purposes. 
The  dairy,  on  the  other  hand,  for  butter,  cheese,  and 
fatted  calves,  has  much  attention  paid  to  it.  The  Rev. 
John  Macmillan,  founder  of  the  Reformed  Presbyterians 
in  1743,  lived  for  some  time  near  Millheugh,  and  lies  in 
Dalserf  churchyard ;  and  the  Rev.  James  Hog,  one  of 
the  twelve  vindicators  of  the  famous  Marrow  ^Modern 
Divinity  (1721),  was  parish  minister.  The  principal 
mansions  are  Buoomhill,  Dalserf  House,  and  Millburn 
House;  and  much  of  the  property  is  divided  between 
the  Hamiltons  of  Raploch  and  the  Hamiltons  of  Dalserf, 
the  latter  holding  3200  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£4700  per  annum.  Three  other  proprietors  hold  each 
an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  11  of  between 
£100  and  £500,  19  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  36  of  from 
£20  to  £50.  In  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton  and  synod 
of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  this  parish  is  divided  into  the 
quoad  sacra  parishes  of  LAiUvn.\LL  and  Dalserf,  the 
latter  being  worth  £373.  The  church,  at  the  village, 
was  built  in  1655,  and  contains  500  sittings.  Two 
public  schools,  Dalserf  and  Shawsburn,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  202  and  300  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  198  and  189,  and  grants  of 
£191,  3s.  and  £168,  3s.  Valuation  (1860)  £19,313, 
(1882)  £34,594,  8s.  Pop.  (1801)  1660,  (1831)  2680,  (1861) 
4876,  (1871)  7341,  (1881)  9376,  of  whom  2674  were  in 
Ddhcvi  quoad  aacra  parish. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  23,  1865. 


DALSHOLM 


DALZIEL 


Dalsholm  or  Dawsholm,  a  village  in  New  Kilpatrick 
parish,  SE  Dumbartonshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Kelvin,  4;^  miles  NW  of  Glasgow.  It  has  a  paper-mill 
and  beautiful  environs ;  and  near  it  is  an  ancient  artitieial 
mound,  the  Courthill,  supposed  to  have  been  a  seat  of 
feudal  courts  of  justice. 

Dalskaith,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Troqueer 
parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  3  miles  SW  of  Dumfiies. 

Dalswinton,  a  small  village,  with  a  public  school,  in 
Kirkmahoe  parish,  Dumfriesshire,  2  miles  SE  b}'  E  of 
Auldgirth  station,  and  7i  NNW  of  Dumfries,  under 
which  it  has  a  post  office.  Dalswinton  House,  1  mile 
SSE,  and  within  ^  mile  of  the  Kith's  right  bank,  is  an 
elegant  and  commodious  mansion,  erected  by  LIr  Patrick 
Miller  (1731-1815),  Burns's  landlord,  on  the  site  of  an 
ancient  castle  of  the  Comyns.  This  self-made  genius 
launched  on  an  isleted  loch  (2x1  furl. )  one  of  the 
earliest  steamboats,  with  the  most  perfect  success,  14 
Oct.  1788.  '  He  spent,' says  Carlyle,  'his  life  and  his 
estate  in  that  adventure,  and  is  not  now  to  be  heard  of 
in  those  parts,  having  had  to  sell  Dals^^'inton  and  die 
quasi-bankrupt,  and,  I  should  think,  broken-hearted' 
{Reminiscences,  i.  129, 130).  The  estate,  held  formerly  by 
ComjTis,  Stewarts,  and  Maxwells,  is  now  the  property  of 
William  MacaliHue-Leny,  Esq.  (b.  1839;  sue.  1867),  who 
holds  5724  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £4282  per  annum. 

Dalton,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  Annandale,  Dum- 
friesshire. The  village  stands  on  Dalton  Bm-n,  6  miles 
SSE  of  Lockerbie,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 

The  parish,  comprising  the  ancient  parishes  of  Meikle 
and  Little  Dalton,  and  annexed  to  Mouswald  from  1609 
till  1633,  is  bounded  N  by  Lochmaben,  NE  by  Dr3'fes- 
dale  and  St  Mungo,  SE  by  Cummertrees,  S  by  Ruth- 
well,  and  W  by  Mouswald.  With  a  very  irregular  out- 
line, it  has  an  utmost  length  from  NNW  to  SSE  of  5| 
miles,  an  utmost  breadth  from  E  to  W  of  3§  miles,  and 
an  area  of  6941  acres,  of  which  55  are  water.  The  river 
Anxax  ■\^•inds  4^  miles  south-eastward  along  all  the 
Dryfesdale  and  St  Mungo  border,  and  its  tributary, 
Dalton  Burn,  twists  and  turns  5f  miles  SSE,  ENE,  and 
N,  through  the  interior ;  whilst  Pow  Water,  rising  in 
the  S,  passes  off  direct  to  the  Solway  Firth  through 
Ruthwell  and  Cummertrees.  The  surface,  nowhere 
lower  than  150  feet  above  sea-level,  is  flat  or  but  gently 
imdulated  over  all  the  S  and  E  of  the  parish,  but  in  the 
NW  attains  604  feet  at  Butterwhat,  720  at  Almagill, 
and  800  at  Holmains.  The  rocks  are  partly  eruptive, 
partly  Devonian,  and  largely  Silurian.  The  soil,  in 
most  of  the  low  tracts,  is  light  alluvial  loam  ;  in  most  of 
the  higher  ground  is  sand  and  gravel  ;  and  in  some 
parts  is  a  cold  clay  on  a  till  bottom,  with  a  few  patches 
of  reclaimed  bog.  About  600  acres  are  pastoral  or  waste, 
500  or  so  are  under  wood,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  land  is 
arable.  AVm.  Beattie,  M.D.  (1793-1875),  biographer  of 
the  poet  Campbell,  was  a  native.  Dormont  and  Eam- 
MEESCALES  are  the  chief  mansions  ;  and  3  proprietors 
hold  each  an  annual  value  of  more,  5  of  less,  than  £500. 
Dalton  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Lochmaben  and  synod  of 
Dumfries  ;  the  living  is  worth  £283.  The  parish  church, 
built  in  1704,  contains  300  sittings  ;  and  a  public  school, 
with  accommodation  for  85  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  60,  and  a  grant  of  £51,  17s. 
Valuation  (1882)  £7077,  6s.  3d.  Pop.  (1801)  691, 
(1831)  730,  (1861)  679,  (1871)  577,  (1881)  579.— Orel. 
Sur.,  sh.  10,  1864. 

Dalton.     See  Lightburx. 

Daltonhook,  a  place  on  the  SW  border  of  Dryfesdale 
parish,  Dumfriesshire.  It  has  lime-works  and  vestiges 
of  an  ancient  strong  tower. 

Dalvaddy,  a  hamlet  in  Campbeltown  parish,  Argyll- 
shire, 3  miles  W  of  Campbeltown  town.  Coal  of  an 
inferior  quality  is  mined  adjacent  to  it,  and  is  conveyed 
by  a  canal  to  Campbeltown. 

Dalveen,  a  wild  pass  (1200  feet)  over  the  Lowther 
Mountains,  from  the  head -streams  of  Powtrail  AVater  in 
Crawford  parish,  Lanarkshire,  to  those  of  Carron  Water 
in  Durisdeer,  Dumfriesshire. 

Dalvey,  a  place  in  Croradale  parish,  S  Elginshire,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Spey,  6  miles  NE  of  Grantown. 


Dalvey  House,  a  handsome  modern  mansion  in  Dyke 
and  Mov  parish,  Elginshire,  crowning  a  knoll,  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Muckle  Burn,  2i  miles  W  by  S  of 
Forres.  Its  owner,  Norman  Macleod,  Esq.  (b.  1857  ; 
sue.  1876),  holds  1328  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£1357  per  annum. 

Dalwhat  Water,  a  stream  of  Glencaim  parish,  W 
Dumfriesshire,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  1680  feet  within 
^  mile  of  the  Kirkcudbrightshire  border,  and  running  10 
miles  east-south-eastward,  till,  f  mile  below  Moniaive, 
it  unites  with  Craigdarroch  and  Castlefern  Waters  to 
form  Cairn  AVater.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  9,  1863. 

Dalwhinnie,  a  station  on  the  Highland  railway  in 
Kingussie  parish,  Inverness-shire,  on  the  Truim's  left 
bank,  1  mile  NE  of  the  head  of  Loch  Ericht,  13  miles 
SSW  of  Kingussie,  and  58f  NAV  of  Perth.  Here  are  a 
post  and  telegraph  office  and  the  Loch  Ericht  Hotel, 
successor  to  an  inn,  which,  built  by  Government,  was 
an  important  stage  in  the  old  coaching  days,  from  its 
vicinity  to  the  Pass  of  Drumochter.  At  Dalwhinnie, 
Cope  held  a  council  of  war  on  27  Aug.  1745,  and  two 
days  later  Prince  Charles  Edward  was  joined  by  Dr 
Cameron,  bringing  Cluny  Macpherson  ;  at  Dalwhinnie 
inn,  too,  the  Queen  and  Prince  Consort,  during  their 
'  Third  Great  Expedition '  incognito,  passed  the  night 
of  8  Oct.  1861,  supping  off  two  miserable  starved  High- 
land chickens,  T\"ith  onl}'  tea,  and  without  any  potatoes, 
and  on  the  morrow  receiving  a  visit  from  the  present 
Cluny  Macpherson  (pp.  165,  166,  of  the  Quee7i's  Journal, 
ed.  1877). 

Dalwick.    See  Da  wick. 

Dalyell  Lodge.     See  Dalgairn. 

Dalziel,  a  central  parish  of  the  middle  ward  of  Lanark- 
shire, containing  the  village  of  Craignetik,  and,  at  its 
western  border,  the  greater  part  of  the  police  burgh  of 
Motherwell,  this  being  2h  miles  NE  of  Hamilton, 
124  ESE  of  Glasgow,  and"  5|  SSE  of  Coatbridge. 
Bounded  NAV  and  N  by  Bothwell,  NE  by  Shotts,  SE 
by  Cambusnethan,  and  SAV  by  Hamilton,  it  has  an 
ritmost  length  from  NAA''  to  SE  of  3J  miles,  an  utmost 
breadth  from  NE  to  SAV  of  2§  miles,  and  an  area  of 
3085  acres,  of  which  45f  are  water.  South  Calder 
AA^ater  traces  all  the  Shotts  and  most  of  the  Bothwell 
boundary  as  it  meanders  westward  to  the  Clyde,  which 
itself  flows  north-westward  for  2g  miles,  and  again  for  3f 
furlongs,  along  the  Hamilton  border.  Sinking  beside 
the  Clyde  to  less  than  100  feet  above  sea-level,  the  sur- 
face thence  rises  eastward  to  259  feet  near  North  Mother- 
well, 308  near  AVindmillhill  Street,  and  322  near  Middle 
Johnston,  and  forms  in  the  centre  and  towards  the  SE 
a  flatfish  ridge  or  low  plateau.  The  rocks,  belonging  to 
the  Carboniferous  formation,  abound  in  coal,  ironstone, 
and  sandstone  flag,  whose  working,  conjointly  with  the 
establishment  of  iron  and  steel  works  at  Motherwell, 
has  led  to  the  abnormal  growth  of  population.  The  soil 
on  the  low  grounds  along  the  Clyde  is  fertile  alluvial 
loam,  and  elsewhere  is  mostly  a  heavy  yellow  clay. 
About  50  acres  are  disposed  in  orchards,  and  woods  or 
plantations  cover  400  more.  The  Roman  AA^'atling  Street 
ran  through  this  parish  from  ESE  to  AA'"NW;  and  a  bar- 
tizaned  summer-house  in  the  grounds  of  Dalzell  House, 
commanding  a  brilliant  view,  was  built  in  1736  on  the 
site  of  a  Roman  camp.  This  Dalzell  House,  J  mile 
from  the  Clyde's  right  bank,  and  If  SSE  of  Mother- 
well, was  built  in  1649  by  Hamilton  of  Boggs,  two  years 
after  his  purchase  of  the  estate  from  the  Earl  of  Carn- 
wath,  whose  ancestors,  the  Dalzells,  had  held  it  from 
time  immemorial.  Described  by  Hamilton  of  AA'ishaw 
as  'a  gi'eat  and  substantial  house,'  it  adjoins  a  much 
older  peel-tower,  50  feet  high,  with  walls  8  feet  in 
thickness;  its  owner,  John  Glencairn  Carter  Hamilton, 
Esq.  (b.  1829  ;  sue.  1834),  possesses  2460  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £14,959  per  annum,  including  £10,779 
for  minerals.  Six  other  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  16  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  20  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  26  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  In  the  presbytery  of  Hamilton  and  synod  of  Glas- 
gow and  Ayr,  this  parish  is  divided  ecclesiastically  into 
Dalziel  and  South    Dalziel,  the  latter  a  quoad  sacra 

343 


DAMFF 

parish  constituted  in  1880,  its  church  tlie  old  parish 
church  (1789 ;  enlarged  1860 ;  658  sittings)  in  AVindmill- 
hill  Street.  Dalziel  itself  (a  living  worth  £210)  has 
now  its  church  in  Merry  Street,  Moth eu well,  under 
which  and  Craigneuk  other  places  of  worship  are  noticed. 
Five  schools — Craigneuk,  Dalziel,  Jluir  Street,  Mother- 
well Iron-works,  and  ^Motherwell  Roman  Catholic — with 
respective  accommodation  for  666,  448,  400,  425,  and  238 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  350,  433, 
271,  473,  and  317,  and  grants  of  £293,  ISs.,  £340,  lis., 
£150,  12s.,  £402,  13s.  6d.,  and  £233,  14s.  Another 
Roman  Catholic  school,  at  Craigneuk,  was  opened  in 
ISSO.  Valuation  (1860)  £21,956,  (1880)  £61,325,  (1882) 
£55,942.  Fop.  (1801)  611,  (1831)  1180,  (1861)  5438, 
(1871)  9175,  (1881)  13,864.— Orrf.  Siir.,  shs.  23,  31, 
1S65-67. 

Damflf.    See  D.^^mph. 

Damhead,  a  village  in  Arngask  parish,  at  the  meeting- 
point  of  the  counties  of  Kinross,  Fife,  and  Perth,  in 
a  vale  of  the  Ochil  Hills,  3  miles  NN\V  of  Mawcarse 
station,  and  4f  N  by  E  of  Milnathort.  It  has  a  post 
office  under  Kinross. 

Damph  or  Loch  an  Daimh,  a  lake  of  Lochbroom 
parish,  in  the  Coigaeh  district  of  Cromart3'shire,  10 
miles  E  of  Ullapool.  Hill-girt,  and  fringed  with  birch 
woods  along  its  south-eastern  shore,  it  lies  at  an  altitude 
of  672  feet  above  sea-level,  is  If  mile  long  from  SW  to 
NE,  and  has  an  utmost  width  of  Iq  furlong.  It  sends 
off  a  streamlet  to  the  Oykell,  and  its  waters  are  well 
stocked  with  trout— Orr^.  Sicr.,  sh.  101,  1882. 

Damph,  a  lake  in  Applecross  parish,  W  Ross-shire, 
^  niUes  E  of  Shieldaig.  Lying  among  high  mountains, 
it  measures  3^  miles  in  length  by  i  mile  in  width  ; 
abounds  in  trout;  and  sends  off  the  Balgay  to  Upper 
Loi-h  Torridon. 

Dams,  a  village  in  Kettle  parish,  Fife,  14  mile  S  of 
Kettle  village. 

Damsay,  an  island  of  Firth  parish,  Orkney,  in  Firth 
Bay,  4  miles  WNW  of  Kirkwall.  Measuring  scarcely 
a  mile  in  circumference,  it  is  so  beautil'ul  as  to  have 
been  sometimes  styled  the  Tempe  of  the  Orkneys  ;  it 
anciently  had  a  strong  castle  and  a  famous  church, 
which  have  entirely  disappeared  ;  and  it  now  is  used 
for  the  jiasturing  of  a  few  hundreds  of  sheep. 

Damsbum,  a  hamlet  in  Logic  parish,  Clackmannan- 
shire, 1^  mile  W  of  Alva. 

Damside,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Auchterarder 
parish,  Perthshire,  If  mile  NE  of  the  town.  Its  owner, 
Mrs  Macduff-Duncan  (sue.  1872),  holds  353  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £491  per  annum. 

Damyat.     See  Uunmyat. 

Dandaleith,  a  beautiful  haugh  in  Rothes  parish,  Elgin- 
shire, on  the  left  bank  of  the  Spey,  with  a  station  on 
the  Morayshire  railway,  2^  miles  SSE  of  Rothes  village, 
ami  f  mile  NW  of  Craigellachie  Junction. 

Dane's  Dyke.     See  Cuail. 

Daneshalt  or  Dunshelt,  a  village  in  Auchtermuchty 
parish,  Fife,  1^  mile  SE  of  Auchtermuchty  town,  under 
which  it  has  a  post  office.  It  is  said  to  have  got  its 
name  from  the  Danes'  first  halting  here  in  their  lliglit 
from  Falkland  Moor ;  and  at  it  are  gas-works,  a  linen 
factory,  farina  works,  and  a  public  scliool,  which,  with 
accommodation  for  83  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  56,  and  a  grant  of  £41,  15s.  Poj).  (1861) 
567,  (1871)  483,  (1881)  414. 

Danevale  Park,  a  mansion  in  Crossmichael  parish, 
Kirkcudl)rightshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Dee,  2f 
miles  NW  of  Castle-Douglas.  Its  owner,  "Wm.  Renny, 
Es<|.  (b.  1849  ;  .sue.  1879),  holds  610  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £1036  per  annum. 

Dankeith,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Symington 
jiarisli,  Ayrshire,  4f  miles  SE  of  Kilmarnock. 

Danna,  an  inhabited  island  in  North  Knapdale  parish, 
Argyllshire. 

Danskine,  an  inn  in  Garvald  parish,  Haddingtonshire, 
5.i  miles  SE  Vjy  S  of  Hadilington. 

Dara,  a  livulet  in  the  N  W  of  Aberdeenshire.  It  ri.ses 
on  tiie  southern  confines  of  Alierdour  jiarish,  and,  bear- 
ing for  .some  distance  the  name  of  Idoch  Water,  runs 
344 


DABNICE 

10  miles  south-westward,  past  Newbyth  and  Cumines- 
town,  till,  making  a  bend  near  the  middle  of  Turriff 
parish,  it  thence  runs  3  miles  north-westward  to  the 
Deveron,  a  little  below  Turriif  town. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
86,  1S76. 

Dara  Den.     See  Dura  Den. 

Dardar,  a  ravine  in  Aberdour  parish,  Aberdeenshire, 
traversed  by  an  impetuous  brook  to  the  Moray  Firth. 
A  cascade  of  three  successive  leaps  occurs  in  the  brook's 
course,  and  in  times  of  freshet  makes  a  somewhat  grand 
and  striking  appearance. 

Dargavei,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Er,skine 
parish,  Renfrewshire.  The  mansion,  1  mile  SSW  of 
Bishopton  station,  was  built  partly  in  1574,  partly  at  a 
i-ecent  period  ;  and  is  in  the  French  style  of  Queen  Mary's 
reign  ;  its  owner,  AVilliam  Hall-]\Iaxwell,  Esq.  (b.  1847  ; 
sue.  1866),  holds  803  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1621 
per  annum. 

Dargie,  a  village  in  Liff  and  Benvie  parish,  Forfarshire, 
near  ^lylnefield,  and  4  miles  W  of  Dundee. 

Dark  Mile.     See  Archaig. 

Darleith,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  the  SW  of 
Bonhill  parish,  Dumbarton.shire,  3  miles  N  by  W  of 
Cardross.  Its  owner,  Archibald  Buchanan  Yuille,  Esq. 
(b.  1812  ;  sue.  1879),  holds  1292  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £845  per  annum. 

Darlington.     See  Stewarton. 

Darmead  Linn.     See  Cambusnethan. 

Darnaway  Castle,  a  noble  mansion  in  Dyke  and  Moy 
parish,  Elginshire,  in  the  valley  of  the  Findliorn,  IJ 
mile  W  of  that  river's  left  bank,  and  2i  miles  SSE  of 
Brodie  station,  this  being  3|  miles  W  by  S  of  Forres, 
under  which  there  is  a  post  office  of  Darnaway.  Crown- 
ing a  gentle  eminence,  and  overtopping  a  vast  extent  of 
forest,  it  commands  a  magnificent  view,  and  was  built 
about  1810,  being  a  large,  oblong,  castellated  pile  of 
very  imposing  appearance — a  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Moray, 
M'ho  owns  21,669  acres  in  Elginshire,  valued  at  £9420 
per  annum.  Of  the  castle  founded  here  by  Randolph, 
Earl  of  Moray,  early  in  the  14tli  century,  nothing  is 
left  but  the  banqueting  hall,  which,  forming  a  back 
Aving  to  the  modern  mansion,  measures  89  feet  in  length 
by  35  in  width,  and  has  an  arched  oaken  roof,  somewhat 
similar  to  that  of  the  Parliament  House  in  Edinburgh. 
It  contains  a  portrait  of  the  '  Bonny  Earl  of  Moray '  who 
was  murdered  at  Donibristlc  ;  and  in  it  Queen  Mary 
held  her  court  in  1564.  The  park  is  finely  wooded, 
upwards  of  ten  millions  of  trees  having  been  planted 
towards  the  close  of  last  century,  to  fill  up  gaps  in 
Darnaway  Forest,  which  extends  into  Edinkillie.  See 
Moray,  Dyke,  Donieuistle,  Douxe,  and  Castle- 
Srv ART.— Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  84,  1876. 

Darnconner.     See  Dernconnek. 

Darngaber,  a  village  in  Hamilton  parish,  Lanarkshire, 
near  Quarter  Road  station,  and  3  miles  S  of  Hamilton 
town. 

Damhall,  a  seat  of  Lord  Elibank  in  Eddlestone  par- 
ish, Peeblesshire,  on  a  rising-ground,  ^  mile  WNW  of 
Eddlestone  station.  Originally  a  Border  tower,  from 
1412  the  -seat  of  the  Murrays  of  Haltoun  or  Blackbarony, 
it  was  greatly  added  to  in  the  first  half  of  the  17th 
century,  and  now  is  a  massive  square  chateau-liko 
edifice,  with  beautiful  grounds  and  a  fine  old  limetree 
avenue.  JIontolieu-Fox  01ii)hant-Murray,  tenth  Baron 
Elibank  since  1643  (b.  1840  ;  sue.  1871),  holds  2660 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2297  per  annum.  See 
Eliisank,  Ballkncrieb'f,  and  Pitiieavles. 

Darnick,  a  village  in  Melrose  parish,  Roxburghshire, 
near  the  right  bank  of  the  Tweed,  7  furlongs  W  of 
Melrose  town,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office.  Dar- 
nick Tower,  the  chief  of  three  peels  that  once  stood 
clustered  here,  and  the  finest  specimen  extant  of  its 
kind,  was  founded  by  the  Heltons  about  1425,  but, 
razecl  and  cast  down  by  the  English  in  1545,  appears  to 
have  been  repaired  or  rebuilt  in  1509 — the  date  of  the 
crest  (a  bull's  head)  above  the  entrance  door.  A  massive 
square  tower,  battlemented  and  corbie-gabled,  with  side 
stair-turret,  it  still  is  habitable,  and  still  is  held  by  a 
descendant  of  its  founder,  Andrew  lleiton,  Esq.,  F.S.A. 


DARNLEY 


DAVIOT  AND  DUNLICHITY 


(b.  1827  ;  sue.  1870),  whose  eousin  and  predecessor  con- 
verted it  into  a  kind  of  Border  antiquarian  museum. 
Scott  coveted  it  sorel}%  to  make  an  armoury  of  it,  and 
from  it  was  jestingly  dubbed,  by  his  familiar  friends, 
tlie  Duke  of  Darnick.  Pop.  of  village  (1841)  280,  (1871), 
435,  (1881)  371.  See  James  Wade's  History  of  ildrosc 
Abbey  (Edinb.  1861). 

Damley,  an  ancient  barony  in  Eastwood  parish,  Ren- 
frewshire, 1^  mile  E  of  Barrhead.  It  belonged  for  ages 
to  a  branch  of  the  house  of  Stewart,  and  in  1460  gave 
the  title  of  Baron  to  Sir  John  Stewart,  who  in  1488 
became  Earl  of  Lennox,  and  whose  fourth  descendant 
was  Henry  Lord  Darnley  (1546-67),  the  husband  of 
Queen  Mary.  It  still  gives  title  of  Earl  (ere.  1675)  to 
the  Duke  of  Richmond  and  Lennox,  but  by  the  first  of 
his  line  was  sold  in  the  beginning  of  the  18  th  century 
to  the  Duke  of  Montrose  ;  and,  passing  again  by  sale  in 
1757  to  Sir  John  JMaxwell  of  PoUok,  belongs  now  to 
Stirling-Maxwell  of  Pollok  and  Keir.  It  gives  a  prefix 
name  to  several  seats  of  manufacture  and  other  locali- 
ties within  its  limits. 

Daxnow,  a  hamlet,  with  a  public  school,  in  Kirkcowan 
parish,  Wigtownshire,  4  miles  NW  of  Kirkcowan  village. 

Damwick.     See  Daenick. 

Darra,  a  hill  in  the  S  of  Turriff  parish,  Aberdeen- 
shire. 

Darrach,  a  conspicuous  hill  in  the  W  of  Denny  parish, 
Stirlingshire,  an  eastwai'd  abutment  of  the  Kilsyth 
Hills  that  culminates,  at  an  altitude  of  1170  feet  above 
sea-level,  3f  miles  W  of  Denny  town. 

Daniel.     See  Glendaeuel. 

Darvel  or  Derval,  a  village  chiefly  in  Loudon  parish,  and 
partly  in  Galston  parish,  Ayrshire,  on  the  river  Irvine,  If 
mile  E  of  Newmilns  station,  this  being  7^  miles  E  by  S 
of  Kilmarnock.  Regularly  built  and  fairly  prosperous, 
it  mainly  depends  on  haudloom  weaving  and  the  manu- 
facture of  muslins  ;  and  has  a  jJost  ofliice  under  Kilmar- 
nock, a  branch  of  the  Union  Bank,  gas-works,  a  Free 
church,  a  public  school,  a  working  men's  institute,  and 
a  subscription  library.  The  working  men's  institute  was 
erected  in  1872  at  the  instance  of  Miss  Brown  of  Lan- 
fine,  and  contains  an  amusement  room,  a  reading-room, 
and  a  committee  room,  capable  of  transmutation  into  a 
hall  accommodating  500  persons.  The  lands  of  Darvel 
belonged  anciently  to  the  Knights  Templars,  and  were 
independent  of  tenure,  not  even  holding  of  the  Crown. 
Pop.  (1841)  1362, (1861)  1544,  (1871) 1729, (1881)  1718. 
—Urcl.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Dava,  a  station  on  the  Highland  railway,  at  the 
mutual  border  of  Cromdale  and  Edinkillie  parishes, 
Elginshire,  8h  miles  NNW  of  Grantown,  under  which 
it  h  as  a  post  and  telegi'aph  office.  Here,  too,  is  a  public 
school.     See  Cromdale. 

Davarr  or  Devar,  a  small  island  in  the  mouth  of  Camp- 
beltown Loch,  Campbelto^vn  parish,  Argyllshire.  Rising 
300  feet  above  sea-level,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and 
breadth  of  5  and  4  J  furlongs,  and  serves  as  a  natural  break- 
water to  Campbeltown  harbour,  protecting  it  from  wind 
and  wave.  To  the  S  side  of  the  loch's  mouth  it  is 
joined  by  a  sand-bar  |  mile  long,  bare  at  low  water  ; 
and  its  north-eastern  point  is  crowned  with  a  light- 
house, that  shows  a  bright  white  light  every  half  minute, 
visible  at  the  distance  of  17  nautical  miles. 

Daven,  a  triangular  loch  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Logie-Coldstone  and  Glenmuick  parishes,  Aberdeenshire, 
^\-ithin  ^  mile  of  Loch  Kinord,  and  IJ  mile  NW  of 
Dinnet  station.  Lying  480  feet  above  sea-level,  it  has 
an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  6  and  4|  furlongs, 
contains  pike  and  perch,  and  sends  off  Dinnet  Burn 
rimning  2^  miles  SE  to  the  Dee  at  Mill  of  Dinnet. 
Close  to  it  are  to  be  seen  the  remains  of  a  native  town, 
which  Skene  identifies  with  'Devana,'  a  name  preserved 
in  that  of  the  loch  itself.  See  Abehdeex,  p.  17. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  76,  1874. 

Davids,  St,  a  seaport  village  in  Dalgety  parish,  Fife, 
on  the  NE  horn  of  Inverkeithing  Bay,  at  the  terminus 
of  the  Fordel  mineral  railway,  li  mile  E  by  S  of  Inver- 
keithing. It  has  a  good  harbour,  and  exports  immense 
quantities  of  coaL 


Davids,  St,  a  village  in  Maddirty  parish,  Perthshire, 
on  the  estate  of  Craig  of  ]\Iadderty,  If  mile  S  by  W  of 
Madderty  station.  Founded  by  the  late  Lady  Baird 
Preston  of  Fern  Tower,  it  superseded  a  decayed  old 
burgh  of  barony,  and  is  a  beautiful  place,  with  a  hand- 
some endowed  schoolhouse. 

Davidson's  Mains  or  Muttonhole,  a  well-built  village 
in  Cramond  parish,  Edinburglishire,  H  mile  WNW  of 
Craigleith  station,  and  3^  miles  AVNW  of  Edinburgh. 
It  has  a  post  office,  wath  money  order,  savings'  bank, 
insurance,  and  telegraph  departments,  a  station  of  the 
Edinburghshire  police,  the  Free  church  of  Cramond, 
and  a  public  school.  Pop.  (1841)  470,  (1861)  599, 
(1871)736,  (1881)  740. 

Davington,  a  hamlet,  with  a  public  school  and  a  Free 
church,  in  Eskdalemuir  parish,  Dumfriesshire,  near 
the  right  bank  of  the  AVhite  Esk,  16i  miles  NNW  of 
Langholm. 

Daviot,  a  hamlet  and  a  parish  in  Garioch  district, 
central  Aberdeenshire.  The  hamlet  stands  5  miles 
NNW  of  Inverurie,  this  being  16:|  miles  NW  of  Aber- 
deen, under  which  Daviot  has  a  post  ofiice. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  Fyvie,  E  by  Old 
Meldrum,  SE  by  Bourtie,  SW  and  W  by  Chapel  of 
Garioch,  and  NW  by  Rayne.  Its  utmost  length,  from 
NNW  to  SSE,  is  31  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to  W, 
varies  between  2^  furlongs  and  3|  miles  ;  and  its  land 
area  is  4454  acres.  Lochter  Burn  traces  aU  the  Bourtie 
boi'der  ;  and,  where  it  quits  this  parish,  the  surface 
sinks  to  200  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  with 
gentle  undulations  to  401  feet  near  Lumphart,  415  at 
the  church,  513  near  Wicketslap,  529  near  Loanhead, 
and  434  at  Knowhead.  The  prevailing  rock  is  trap  in 
the  central  higher  grounds,  coarse  gneiss  in  the  S  and 
E.  The  soil,  on  the  lower  grounds,  is  generally  peat 
humus  on  bluish  clay  ;  on  the  slopes,  is  commonly  a 
rich  loam  or  a  strong  clay  ;  on  the  higher  grounds,  is 
gravelly  and  thin.  About  3700  acres  are  in  tillage,  180 
under  wood,  100  moss,  and  150  either  waste  or  very 
slightly  reclaimed.  Three  stone  circles  and  two  pre- 
Reformation  chapels  stand  or  have  stood  within  the 
parish.  Glack,  with  its  lofty  tower,  is  a  conspicuous 
object  ;  and  other  mansions,  also  separately  noticed, 
are  jMounie  and  Fingask — 4  proprietors  holding  each  an 
annual  value  of  more,  and  4  of  less,  than  £100.  Daviot 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Garioch  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £153.  The  church,  built  in  1798, 
contains  400  sittings  ;  and  a  public  school,  with  accom- 
modation for  150  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  at- 
tendance of  101,  and  a  grant  of  £92,  17s.  Valuation 
(1881)  £5.532,  7s.  Pop.  (1801)  644,  (1831)  691,  (1861) 
614,  (1871)  597,  (1881)  old.— Urcl.  Sur.,  shs.  76,  86, 
1874-76. 

Daviot  and  Dunlichity,  a  united  parish  of  NE  Inver- 
ness-shire mainh',  but  partly  also  of  Nairnshire,  388 
acres  at  its  north-eastern  extremity  belonging  to  the 
main  body,  and  12,600  towards  the  S  forming  a  detached 
portion,  of  that  count}'.  The  parishes  of  Daviot  and 
Dunlichity  were  united  in  1618,  but  still  are  so  far  dis- 
tinct as  each  to  have  its  church,  that  of  Daviot  standing 
near  the  Nairn's  left  bank,  6f  miles  SE  of  Inverness, 
under  which  there  is  a  post  oliice  of  Daviot,  whilst  that 
of  Dunlichity  stands  1  mile  EXE  of  the  foot  of  Loch 
Dundelchack  and  6f  miles  SW  by  S  of  Daviot  church. 
The  united  parish,  then,  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  Croy- 
Dalcross,  SE  and  S  by  Moy-Dalarossie,  SW  by  Boleskine- 
Abertarff,  and  NW  by  Dores,  the  Farraline  section  of 
Boleskine,  Inverness,  and  the  Leys  section  of  Croy.  Its 
utmost  length  is  22g  miles  from  NE  by  N  to  SW  by  S  ; 
and  its  breadth  varies  between  4i  furlongs  and  7:^  nules. 
The  river  Nairx,  rising  towards  the  S  of  the  parish, 
winds  22J  miles  north-north-westward  and  north-north- 
eastward, chiefly  through  the  interior,  but  for  the  last 
3i  miles  along  the  Croy  and  Dalcross  border  ;  during 
this  course  it  descends  from  2480  to  close  on  300  feet 
above  sea-level.  The  southern  Nairnshire  section  is 
drained  to  Loch  Ness  by  the  Faiugaig,  formed  by  two 
head-streams  near  Dunmaglass  Lodge,  and  running  2 
miles  north-north-westward  till  it  passes  into  Dores, 

845 


DAVO 

Besides  twenty-six  tiny  lakelets — eighteen  of  tliera 
dotted  over  Drummossie  Muir — there  are,  in  the  in- 
terior, Lochs  CoiRE  (5  X  23  furl.  ;  altitude,  865  feet)  and 
Clachax  (4  X  J  mile ;  683  feet),  and,  on  the  Dores 
border.  Lochs  Buxaciiton  (i  x  ^  mile  ;  701  feet),  DuN- 
DELCHACK  (3i[  miles  X  1  mile  ;  702  feet),  and  Ruthven 
(9  X  2^  furl.  ;  700  feet).  The  surface  sinks,  as  we  have 
said,  to  close  on  300  feet  along  the  Nairn,  and  thence 
south-south-westward  the  chief  elevations  to  tlie  right 
or  E  of  its  course  are  *Beinn  na  Buchanich  (1312  feet), 
*Beinn  a'  Bhenrlaich  (1575),  Meall  na  Fuar-ghlaic  (1552), 
*Carn  nan  Uisgean  (2017),  Reinn  Bhreae  (1797),  *Carn 
Glac  an  Eich  (2066),  Cam  Mor  (1222),  *Carn  na  Sao- 
bhaidh  (2321),  Cam  Doire  na  h-Achlais  (206G),  and 
*Carn  Ghriogair  (2637) ;  to  the  left  or  AV  of  the  Nairn 
are  Drummossie  Muir  (874),  *Creag  a'  Chlachain  (1000), 
Creag  Dhubh  (1450),  Stac  na  Cathaig  (1463),  Garbh- 
bheinn  Bheag  (1711),  Beinn  Bhuidhe  (2329),  *Carn 
Odhar  (2618),  Beinn  Dubh-choire  (2261),  *Meall  Donn 
(1560),  Beinn  Bhuraich  (2560),  and  *Carn  na  Saobhaidhe 
(2658),  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  culmi- 
nate on  the  bordersof  the  parish.  Gneiss,  granite,  Old  Red 
sandstone  conglomerate,  and  black  and  blue  bituminous 
shale  are  the  chief  rocks.  Numerous  low  sand-hills, 
seemingly  formed  by  flux  and  reflux  of  some  great  body 
of  water,  are  on  both  sides  of  the  Nairn,  extending  from 
Daviot  Bridge,  2  miles  higher  up.  ]\Iarl,  to  a  depth  of 
from  5  to  6  feet,  formed  an  extensive  bed  in  Tordarroch 
Moss,  at  a  depth  of  from  5  to  7  feet  below  the  surface ; 
and  was  largely  and  effectively  used  for  improving  the 
lighter  arable  lands.  The  soil,  in  some  places,  is  light 
and  sandy  ;  in  others,  wet  and  spongy,  on  a  clay  bottom ; 
in  others,  a  black  mossy  humus  ;  and  in  many,  a  com- 
pound of  two  or  more  of  these.  Daviot  Castle,  near 
Daviot  House,  was  built  in  the  beginning  of  the  15th 
century  by  David,  Earl  of  Crawford  ;  a  square  three- 
story  structure,  surmounted  by  round  turrets  at  the 
angles,  and  girt  by  a  wall  enclosing  an  extensive  area, 
and  b}'  a  fosse  with  a  drawbridge,  it  seems  to  have  been 
a  place  of  great  strength,  but  is  now  represented  by  only 
fragmentary  ruins.  Dun-Daviot  Hill,  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  church,  appears  to  have  been  used,  in  times  of  danger, 
as  a  signal  station.  Remains  of  ancient  Caledonian 
stone  circles  are  at  Daviot,  Gask,  Farr,  and  Tordarroch ; 
and  several  ancient  tumuli  on  the  hills  have  been  found 
to  contain  funereal  relics.  Daviot  House  and  Farr 
House  both  stand  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nairn.  The 
former,  7  furlongs  NNE  of  Daviot  church,  is  a  com- 
modious modern  mansion  ;  the  latter,  6|  miles  SSW,  is 
partly  old,  paiily  modern.  Other  estates  are  Brin, 
FLifHiTY,  and  Dunmaglass  ;  and  in  all  8  proprietors 
hold  an  annual  value  of  more,  3  of  less,  than  £100. 
This  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Inverness  and  synod 
of  Moray  ;  the  living  is  worth  £356.  Daviot  church 
(500  sittings)  was  rebuilt  in  1826,  Dunlichity  (300)  in 
1758  ;  and  service  is  performed  in  them  alternately,  A 
Free  church  stands  4if  miles  SSW  of  Daviot  church  ;  and 
5^  miles  further  SSW  is  St  Paul's  Episcopal  church  of 
Strathnairn,  which,  originally  erected  in  1817,  was 
rebuilt  in  1869  at  a  cost  of  £900,  and  contains  200 
sittings.  The  five  schools  of  Daviot,  Dunmaglass,  Farr, 
Nairnside,^  and  Strathnairn,  the  three  first  public  and 
the  last  Episcopalian,  with  respective  accommodation 
for  83,  50,  90,  90,  and  150  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  34,  19,  37,  58,  and  48,  and  grants 
of  £41,  12s.,  £32,  18s.  6d.,  £41,  7s.,  £48,  15s.,  and 
£49,  10s.  Valuation  of  Inverness-shire  portion  (1880) 
£10,358,  8s.  Id. ;  of  Nairnshire  portion  (1882)  £1465, 10s. 
Pop.  (1801)1818, (1831) 1738, (1861)  1741,  (1871)  1598, 
(1881)  1252.— On^.  Sur.,  .shs.  84,  73,  74,  83,  1876-81. 

Davo,  a  romantic  wooded  ravine  in  Garvock  parish, 
Kincardineshire.  It  contains  a  quarry  of  excellent 
buiMing  red  sandstone. 

Davoch.     See  HAi.F-DAVAcn, 

Dawan.     Si(!  Daven. 

Dawick  House,  a  modem  castellated  mansion,  stand- 
ing amid  finely-wooded  ground.s,  in  the  NE  corner  of 
Dmmmclzior  parish,  Peeblesshire,  2^  furlongs  S  of  the 
Tweed's  right  bank,  and  it  mile  SSW  of  Stobo  station 
346 


DECHMONT  HOUSE 

this  being  6^  miles  WSW  of  Peebles.  Held  by  the 
Veitches  from  the  13th  to  the  close  of  the  17th  century, 
the  estate  then  passed  to  the  lawyer,  James  Naesmyth 
(d.  1706),  who  was  known  as  the  '  Deil  0'  Da'wlck.'  His 
grandson  and  namesake,  the  second  baronet  (sue.  1720  ; 
d.  1779),  was  the  eminent  botanist,  Linnoeus'  pupil,  who 
planted  in  1735  the  Dawick  avenue  of  silver  firs,  and  to 
whom  Scotland  owes  the  introduction  of  the  lai'cli  in 
1725.  His  great-grandson,  the  present  Sir  James  Nae- 
smyth of  Posso,  fifth  Bart,  since  1706  (b.  1827  ;  sue. 
1876),  owns  15,485  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £3557 
per  annum.  On  a  knoll,  1-|  furlong  S  by  W  of  the 
house,  still  stands  the  old  church  of  Dawick  parish 
(suppressed  1742),  which  serves  now  as  the  family 
mausoleum. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  24,  1864. 

Dawsholm.     See  DALSHOLir. 

Dead  Burn,  a  burn  in  Newlands  parish,  Peeblesshire, 
running  3  miles  south-south-westward  to  Lyne  Water, 
at  a  point  2i  miles  SSE  of  Linton. 

Dead  Loch.    See  Yarrow. 

Deadman's  Gill,  a  burn  in  the  E  of  Mouswald  parish, 
Dumfriesshire,  whose  bank  is  traditionally  alleged  to 
have  been  a  place  of  execution. 

Deadmen's  Holm,  a  piece  of  alluvial  flat  in  Tarbolton 
parish,  A}Tshire,  opposite  the  mouth  of  Bloody  Burn. 
It  and  the  burn  are  alleged  to  have  got  their  name  from 
being  the  scene  of  some  ancient  massacre  or  tragedy. 

Deadriggs.     See  Crosshall,  Berwickshire. 

Dead  Water,     See  Castleton,  Roxburghshire. 

Dean,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Boyds,  Earls  of  Kilmar- 
nock from  1661  to  1746,  in  Kilmarnock  parish,  Ayr- 
shire, on  a  gentle  rising-ground  above  the  right  bank 
of  Kilmarnock  Water,  1  mile  NNE  of  Kilmarnock  town. 
Dating  from  some  very  early  period  unknown  to  record, 
it  was  destroyed  by  accidental  fi.re  in  1735,  and  is  now 
a  massive  picturesque  ruin. 

Deanbumhaugh,  a  hamlet  in  Roberton  parish,  partly 
in  Roxburghshire,  partly  in  Selkirkshire,  on  Borthwick 
Water,  7|  miles  WSW  of  Hawick,  under  which  it  has  a 
post  office. 

Deanston,  a  manufacturing  village  in  Kilmadock 
parish,  Perthshire,  on  the  swift  Teith's  right  bank,  1 
mile  W  of  Doune.  It  presents  an  appearance  greatly 
superior  to  that  of  most  seats  of  manufacture,  consisting 
chiefly  of  extensive  cotton-mills  founded  in  1785,  and 
of  dwelling-houses  for  the  workpeople,  but  including 
Deanston  House  ;  and  has  a  post  office  under  Stirling, 
a  large  school,  a  circulating  library,  and  a  savings'  bank. 
James  Smith  (1789-1850),  as  manager  of  its  mills  from 
1807,  made  great  displays  of  genius,  and  stands  on  the 
roll  of  fame,  among  the  Wattses  and  the  Arkwrights 
as  a  mechanician,  among  the  Youngs  and  the  Sinclairs 
as  the  inventor  of  tliorough  drainage,  and  among  the 
Howards  and  the  Clarksons  as  a  philanthropist.  Pop. 
(1841)  982,  (1861)  727,  (1871)  627,  (ISSl)  700. 

Deanston,  Ayrshire.     See  Stewarton. 

Dean  Water,  a  small,  deep,  sluggish  river  of  W 
Forfarshire,  issuing  from  Forfar  Loch  (171  feet),  and 
running  13J  miles  west-south-westward,  through  or 
along  the  borders  of  Kinnettles,  Kirriemuir,  Glamis, 
Airlie,  Eassie,  and  Meigle  in  Perthshire,  till  it  falls  into 
the  Isla  1  mile  N  of  Meigle  village,  after  a  total  descent 
of  barely  50  feet.  It  abounds  in  pike,  perch,  and  prime 
tront— Orel.  Sur.,  shs.  57,  56,  1868-70. 

Deasthack,  a  burn  in  Kiltarlity  parish,  Inverness- 
shire,  running  to  the  Beauly  at  Fasnacoil. 

Dechmont,  a  hill-summit  on  the  SW  border  of  Cam- 
buslang  parish,  Lanarkshire,  5h  miles  SSE  of  Glasgow. 
The  highest  point  of  the  hill-range  that  terminates 
north-westward  in  Carmunnock,  it  has  an  altitude  of 
602  feet  above  sea-level,  and  commands  a  magnificent 
view,  whose  beauties  form  the  theme  of  a  descriptive 
poem  by  John  Struthers.  The  Beltane  fires  long 
blazed  from  its  summit ;  and  on  its  slopes  were  formerly 
many  Caledonian  cairns  and  suchlike  structures,  now 
almost  totally  obliterated. 

Dechmont  House,  a  mansion  in  Livingstone  parish, 
Linlitiigowshire,  3^  miles  WSW  of  Uphal'l  station.  Its 
owner,  Airs  Jleldruni,  holds  1200  acres  in  the  shire 


DEE 


DEE 


valued  at  £18G0  per  annum.  A  little  to  the  NE  are 
Declimont  village  and  Dechmont  Hill  (686  feet),  which 
commands  a  very  extensive  prospect. 

Dee,  a  river  chiefly  of  S  Aberdeenshire,  but  partly  also 
of  Kincardineshire.  It  rises  from  tlie  very  bosom  of 
the  Cairngorm  Mountains,  in  the  SW  corner  of  Aber- 
deenshire, close  to  the  boundary  with  Banff,  Inverness, 
and  Perth  shires  ;  and  runs  first  south-south-eastward, 
but  generally  east-by-northward  along  the  Braemar  and 
Deeside  districts  of  Aberdeenshire,  across  a  wing  of 
Kincardineshire,  and  along  the  boundary  between  Aber- 
deenshire and  Kincardineshire,  to  the  sea  at  Aberdeen. 
Its  length,  if  one  follows  its  windings,  is  87^  miles,  viz. , 
2J  from  the  source  of  Garchary  Burn  to  its  confluence 
\vith  Larig  Burn,  11^  thence  to  the  Linn  of  Dee,  6| 
thence  to  the  Clunie's  influx  near  Castleton,  9  thence  to 
Balmoral,  9J  thence  to  Ballater  Bridge,  13|  thence  to 
Aboyne  Bridge,  15|  thence  to  Banchory  Bridge,  17| 
thence  to  the  old  Bridge  of  Dee,  and  1§  thence  to  its 
mouth  in  the  North  Sea.  Its  drainage  area  is  esti- 
mated at  700  square  miles  ;  and  from  4060  feet  above 
sea-level  at  the  Garchary's  source  it  descends  to  1976  at 
the  Larig's  confluence,  1640  at  the  Geusachan's  influx, 
1214  at  the  Linn  of  Dee,  1066  near  Castleton,  872  near 
Balmoral,  663  at  Ballater,  397  at  Aboyne,  296  at  the 
Bridge  of  Potarch,  102  at  Drumoak  ferry,  and  72  at 
Peterculter.  Its  velocity,  above  Castleton,  is  fitful  and 
various,  ranging  from  cascade  to  current,  from  torrent 
to  pool ;  but,  below  Castleton,  averages  3^  miles  per 
hour,  with  a  mean  depth  of  4  feet,  and  is  so  regular  as 
nowhere  to  furnish  water-power  to  a  mill.  Its  tribu- 
taries partake  of  its  own  character,  being  mountain- 
torrents  in  the  upper  part  of  the  basin,  and,  in  the 
lower,  gently  gliding  streams ;  or,  in  some  instances, 
are  impetuous  first,  next  slow.  Its  waters  are  remark- 
able for  both  perennial  flow  and  limpid  purity ;  con- 
tinue, a  long  way  down  its  course,  to  be  almost  wholly 
unafi'ected  by  any  such  circumstances  as  pollute  most 
other  rivers ;  and,  even  in  its  lower  reaches  where  the 
drainage  of  farms  and  villages  runs  into  them,  are  com- 
paratively well  protected  from  defilement  by  skilful 
methods  of  land  drainage. 

The  Dee  has  been  almost  universally  identified  with 
the  Deva  of  Ptolemy,  but  the  Latin  editions  prior  to 
1525  all  read  Leva,  and  Skene  observes  that '  the  distance 
both  from  the  Firth  of  Tay  and  from  Kinnairds  Head 
corresponds  more  closely  with  the  mouth  of  the  North 
Esk  than  with  that  of  the  river  Dee.'  By  Celtic 
scholars  Dee  itself  has  been  variously  interpreted  by 
'  dark '  or  '  smooth  '  or  '  double  water,'  the  last  signifi- 
cation referring  to  the  river's  two-fold  soi;rce,  in  the 
Larig  and  Garchary  Burns.  The  Garchary,  issuing  from 
Well  Dee  (4060  feet)  between  Cairntoul  and  Braeriach, 
hurries  2f  miles  east-south-eastward  to  a  confluence 
with  the  Larig,  which,  itself  rising  from  the  Wells  of 
Dee  (2700  feet)  between  Braeriach  and  Ben  Macdhui, 
runs  IJ  mile  southward,  and  midway  is  joined  by  a 
half  subterraneous  torrent  rushing  1  mile  westward  from 
its  source  (4200  feet)  upon  Ben  Macdhui.  And  which, 
then,  is  the  veritable  head-stream  ?  Dr  Hill  Burton 
elects  in  favour  of  the  Larig,  as  less  desperately  flighty, 
more  voluminous,  and  more  in  the  line  of  the  glen, 
than  the  Garchary ;  but,  on  the  whole,  the  latter  carries 
the  day,  by  its  longer  descent  and  very  much  higher 
birth.  The  scenery  of  the  meeting  of  the  two  streams  is 
terrible,  wilder  even  than  that  of  Glen  Sannox,  Glencoe, 
or  Coruisk  ;  and  serves  to  explain  how  the  influence  of 
alpine  landscape  has  darkened  the  imagination  of  the 
Highlanders,  and  given  aspects  of  gloom  and  supersti- 
tion to  their  traditions.  Hogg,  speaking  of  Ben  Macdhui, 
exaggerates  nothing,  but  fails  to  give  due  force  and 
fulness  to  his  picture,  when  he  says — 

'  Beyond  the  grizzly  cliffs  that  guard 

The  infant  rills  of  Highland  Dee, 
Where  hunter's  horn  was  never  heard, 

Nor  bugle  of  the  forest-bee, 
'Mid  wastes  that  dern  and  dreary  lie, 

One  mountain  rears  its  mighty  form. 
Disturbs  the  moon  in  fiassing  by, 

And  smiles  above  the  thuuderstorm.' 


A  barrren  and  desolate  region,  of  which,  as  a  boy, 
Hill  Burton  was  told  by  Donald  that  it  was  '  a  fery 
fulgar  place,  not  fit  for  a  young  shentleraan  to  go  to  at 
all ; '  and  of  which,  some  forty  years  later.  Hill  Burton 
wrote  that,  '  if  we  compare  this  defile  to  another  of  the 
grandest  mountain  -  passes  in  Scotland — to  Glencoe — 
we  find  a  marked  dill'ercnce  between  them.  The  scene 
of  the  great  tragedy,  grand  and  impressive  as  it  is,  has 
no  such  narrow  walled  defiles.  The  mountains  are  high, 
but  they  are  of  the  sugar-loaf  shape — abrupt  but  never 
one  mass  of  precipice  from  top  to  bottom.  Cairntoul 
resembles  those  hills,  though  it  is  considerably  more 
precipitous  ;  but  Braeriach  is  as  much  unlike  them  as  a 
tower  is  distinct  from  a  dome.'  Through  this  narrow 
glen,  then,  that  begins  to  widen  below  the  Geusachan's 
influx,  the  united  waters  of  Garchary  and  Larig  flow,  as 
the  Dee,  over  a  broken  rocky  bed  in  alternate  sweeps, 
rapids,  and  cascades,  till,  at  a  place  6|  miles  above 
Castleton  of  Braemar,  it  forms  a  remarkable  series  of 
small  falls — the  Linn  of  Dee.  The  Linn  is  a  natural 
sluice  of  rock,  with  rugged  sides,  and  jagged,  shelving 
bottom,  300  yards  long,  and  at  one  point  barely  4  feet 
wide — an  easy  jump.  Through  it  the  river  shoots  in 
small  cascades  ;  and  it  is  spanned  by  a  handsome  white 
granite  bridge,  opened  in  1857  by  Queen  Victoria.  The 
river,  about  IJ  mile  below  the  Linn,  begins  to  touch 
some  marks  of  cultivation ;  but  it  soon  afterwards 
enters  Mar  Forest,  through  which  it  flows  to  some 
distance  beyond  Castleton,  receiving  in  it  the  Lui  and 
the  Quoich  from  the  N,  and  the  Ey  and  the  Clunie 
from  the  S.  It  next  traverses  Invercauld  Forest ;  pro- 
ceeds thence  past  Balmoral  and  Abergeldie  ;  receives 
two  small  tributaries,  from  respectively  the  N  and  the 
S,  in  the  vicinity  of  Balmoral ;  passes  on  to  Ballater ; 
and  receives,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  that  village,  the 
Gairn  or  Gairden  from  the  N,  and  the  Muick  from  the 
S.  Its  scenery  between  the  Linn  and  Ballater  is  noticed 
in  our  articles  on  Braemar  and  Balmoral,  and  its 
scenery  around  Ballater  and  for  some  miles  further  on 
is  described  as  follows  by  William  Howitt :  '  The  hills 
are  lofty,  grey,  and  freckled ;  they  are,  in  fact,  bare 
and  tempest-tinted  granite,  having  an  air  of  majestic 
desolation.  Some  rise  peaked  and  splintered,  and  their 
sides  covered  with  cUhris,  yet,  as  it  were,  bristled  with 
black  and  sharp-looking  pine  forests.  Some  of  the  hills 
run  along  the  side  of  the  Dee,  covered  with  these  woods, 
exactly  as  the  steep  Black  Forest  hills  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Wildbad.'  Meadow,  cornfield,  and  garden, 
however,  begin  to  show  themselves  as  one  approaches 
Ballater,  ever  more  and  more  as  the  river  rolls  on  towards 
the  sea. 

The  Dee,  from  a  point  about  3^  miles  E  of  Ballater, 
flows  through  a  gradually  widening  valley,  still  narrow, 
but  with  less  and  less  of  its  former  Highland  character  ; 
and  it  forces  its  way  through  a  comminuted  compound 
of  granite,  gneiss,  porphyry,  greenstone,  and  hornblende 
debris,  and  receives  on  both  banks  numerous  small  tri- 
butaries. It  enters  Kincardineshire  at  a  point  3J  miles 
SE  of  Kincardine  O'Neil,  and,  traversing  that  county 
over  a  run  of  9f  miles,  receives  in  it,  on  the  right  bank, 
the  tribute  of  the  Feugh.  Retouching  Aberdeenshire  at 
the  SW  corner  of  Drumoak  parish,  it  thence  runs  14^ 
miles  along  the  boundary  between  the  two  counties  to 
the  sea  at  Aberdeen  ;  and,  from  the  point  of  its  entering 
Kincardineshire  onward  to  its  mouth,  oilers  alternations 
of  tame  hill  scenery  and  beautiful  lowland  landscape. 
From  source  to  mouth  it  traverses  or  bounds  the  parishes 
of  Crathie,  Glenmuick,  Aboyne,  Birse,  Kincardine 
O'Neil,  Strachan,  Banchory-Tcrnan,  Durris,  Drumoak, 
Peterculter,  Maryculter,  Banchory-Devenick,  Nigg,  and 
Old  Machar ;  and  in  our  articles  on  these  fourteen 
parishes  full  details  are  given  as  to  the  villages,  man- 
sions, and  other  features  of  its  course. 

The  Dee  was  once  the  most  finely  wooded  and  the 
best  fishing  river  in  Scotland ;  and,  though  much 
damaged  by  entails,  manufactories,  and  stake-nets,  it 
still,  for  wood  and  fish,  has  scarce  a  rival  among  British 
rivers.  Salmon  contrive  to  force  their  way,  up  all  its 
currents  and  obstructions,  to  points  above  the  Liun, 

347 


DEE 

and,  though  not  now  caught  in  any  such  quantity  as  in 
bygone  days,  are  still  taken  in  great  numbers.  About 
20,'000  salmon  and  40,000  grilse  are  caught  in  an  average 
season  ;  but  these  numbers  include  those  taken  by  stake- 
nets  and  on  the  beach  adjacent  to  the  river's  mouth. 
The  best  catch  of  the  1881  season  was  got  about  the 
middle  of  July,  when  some  600  fish  were  landed  in  a 
single  day  from  the  Pot  and  Fords.  The  finest  reach  of 
the°  river  for  rod-fishing  extends  from  Banchory  to 
Ballater.  Clean-run  salmon  have  often  been  taken  by 
the  rod  so  early  as  the  1st  of  February,  in  the  waters 
above  Ballater,  at  a  distance  of  50  mUes  from  the  sea  ; 
but  they  rarely  ascend  the  Linn  till  after  the  middle  of 
May.  As  a  rule  they  run  small,  7  to  10  lbs.  on  an 
average.  The  connections  of  the  river  with  the  water- 
supply  and  commerce  of  Aberdeen,  as  also  the  diversion 
of  its  channel,  are  noticed  in  our  article  on  that  city. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  U,  65,  66,  76,  67,  77,  1870-74.  See 
chaps,  xxiii.  -xxv.  of  Sir  Thomas  Dick  Lauder's  Moray 
Floods  (Elgin,  1830  ;  3d  ed.  1873) ;  James  Brown's  Kew 
Deeside  Guide  (Ab.,  1843) ;  and  Dr  John  Hill  Burton's 
Cairngorm  Mountains  (Edinb.  1864). 

Dee,  a  river  of  "W  Kirkcudbrightshire,  issuing  from 
Loch  Dee,  a  lonclv  lake  that  lies  among  the  heathery 
lieights  of  Minnigatf— Laraachan  Hill  (2349  feet), 
Curleywee  (2212),  Craiglee  (1741),  and  Cairngarroch 
(1800).  Itself  750  feet  above  sea-level,  Loch  Dee  is  7 
furlongs  long  and  from  1 J  to  4  furlongs  ^vide ;  its 
waters  are  still  well  stocked  with  trout,  which  have, 
however,  been  sadly  thinned  by  pike,  and  which  average 
1  lb.  in  weight,  though  seven  or  eight  years  since  a 
monster  of  12  lbs.  was  taken  here.  Leaving  this 
mountain  lake,  the  Dee,  or  Black  Water  of  Dee,  Avinds 
18^  miles  east-south-eastward  till,  after  traversing 
Stkoan  Loch,  it  is  joined,  just  opposite  to  Parton 
station,  by  the  "Water  of  Ken,  a  stream  of  much  larger 
volume  than  its  own.  For  the  next  5  miles,  on  to 
Glenlochar  Lodge,  their  miited  waters  assume  the  aspect 
of  a  long  narrow  lake — called,  indeed,  sometime  a  second 
Loch  Dee — that  widens  here  to  half  a  mUe,  and  there 
contracts  to  barely  a  hundred  yards.  From  Glenlochar, 
on  past  the  islets  of  Threave  Castle  and  Lodge,  our 
river  sweeps,  through  a  rocky  channel,  llf  miles  south- 
ward and  south-south-westward  to  Kirkcudbright  town, 
thence  3  miles  southward  through  a  broadening  estuary 
to  its  mouth  in  Kirkcudbright  Bay.  It  thus  has  a  total 
course  of  38  J  rniles,  during  which  it  traverses  or  bounds 
the  parishes  of  Minnigaff,  Kells,  Girthon,  Balmaghio, 
Parton,  Crossmichael,  Kelton,  Tongueland,  Kirkcud- 
bright, Twynholm,  and  Borgue,  and  during  which  it 
receives  Cooran  Lane,  the  Ken,  and  Tarf  Water,  with  a 
number  of  lesser  tributaries.  It  is  navigable  to  Tongue- 
land,  or  about  7  miles  from  the  Solway ;  and  it 
sometimes  rises  in  freshets  to  8  feet  above  its  ordinary 
level  Its  waters,  particularly  before  their  confluence 
with  the  Ken,  are  so  mossy  and  dark-hued  as  to  render 
its  name  of  Dee  or  '  dark  stream,'  and  specially  its 
duplicate  name  of  Black  Dee,  entirely  appropriate. 
Its  salmon,  too,  are  of  a  darker  colour  and  much  fatter 
than  those  of  most  rivers  in  the  S  of  Scotland,  and  are 
held  in  high  estimation ;  its  waters  contain  also  sea-trout, 
river-trout,  pike,  perch,  and  large  quantities  of  pearl- 
mussels.— Ort^.  ,Swr.,  shs.  8,  9,  5,  1863-54. 

Dee,  Bridge  of,  a  south-western  suburb  of  Aberdeen, 
on  the  river  Dee,  2  miles  from  the  centre  of  the  city. 
It  has  a  iiost  office  under  Aberdeen. 

Dee,  Bridge  of,  a  village  on  the  SE  border  of  Bal- 
maghie  parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  on  the  right  bank 
of  tiie  Dee,  with  a  station  on  the  Kirkcudbriglit  raihva}', 
3  miles  SW  of  Castle-Douglas.  It  has  a  Christian 
Knowledge  Society's  school. 

Deechoid  or  Deadh  Choimhead,  a  hill  (1255  feet)  in 
ihickaiiu  ])arish,  Argyllshire,  5i  miles  E  by  S  of  Oban. 

Deer,  a  place  in  jlorton  ]iarish,  Dumfriesshire,  near 
Morton  Castle,  and  2^  miles  N  by  W  of  Tliornhill.  It 
has  remains  of  an  entrenched  strong  fortification,  sup- 
posed to  Jiave  been  a  Roman  castellum. 

Deer,  an  ancient  parish  and  a  presbytery,  partly  in 
Baufl'shire,  but  chiefly  in  Aberdeenshire.  The  ancient 
348 


DEER,  NEW 

parish  was  divided,  about  the  year  1694,  into  the  present 
parishes  of  New  Deer  and  Old  Deer.  The  presbytery, 
meeting  at  Maud,  is  in  the  synod  of  Aberdeen,  and 
comprises  the  old  parishes  of  Aberdour,  Crimoud,  Kew 
Deer,  Old  Deer,  St  Fergus,  Fraserburgh,  Longside,  Lon- 
may,  Peterhead,  Pitsligo,  Eathen,  Strichen,  and  Tyiie  ; 
the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Ardallie,  Blackhill,  Boddam, 
Fraserburgh  West  Church,  Inverallochy,  Kininmonth, 
New  Pitsligo,  Peterhead  East  Church,  and  Savoch ; 
and  the  chapelries  of  New  Maud,  Techmuiry,  and  Peter- 
head Robertson  Memorial  IMission  Church.  Pop.  (1871) 
49,199,  (1881)  54,420,  of  whom  14,052  were  communi- 
cants of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878. — The  Free 
Church  also  has  a  presbytery  of  Deer,  with  2  churches 
at  Peterhead,  and  11  at  respectively  Aberdour,  Clola, 
Fraserburgh,  Longside,  New  Deer,  New  Pitsligo,  Old 
Deer,  Pitsligo,  Rathen,  Strichen,  and  St  Fergus,  which 
together  had  2832  communicants  in  1881. 

Deer  or  South  Ugie  Water.     See  Ugie. 

Deer- Dike,  a  substantial  earthen  fence  along  the  mutual 
boundary  of  Garvock  and  Laurencekirk  parishes,  Kin- 
cardineshire. Probably  part  of  an  enclosure  round  a 
deer-forest,  comprising  most  or  all  of  Garvock  parish,  it 
continued  tUl  last  century  to  be  tolerably  entire,  and 
still  has  left  distinct  traces. 

Deer-Law,  a  hill  (2065  feet)  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Yarrow  parish,  Selkirkshire,  and  Lyne  parish,  Peebles- 
shire, 2  miles  NW  of  St  Mary's  Loch. 

Deemess,  a  parish  of  Orkney,  comprising  a  peninsula 
in  the  extreme  E  of  Pomona  and  the  islands  of  Copen- 
shay,  Cornholm,  and  Horse.  Its  kirkto^^Ti  stands  on 
the  E  coast  of  the  peninsula,  8^  miles  E  by  S  of  Kirk- 
wall, under  which  it  has  a  post  ofiice.  Extending  from 
Moul  Head  south-westward  to  the  isthmus  that  connects 
it  with  St  Andi'ews  parish,  and  measuring  5  miles  in 
length  by  3  in  extreme  breadth,  the  said  peninsula  is 
bounded  W  and  NAV  by  Deer  Sound,  E  by  the  North 
Sea,  and  SE  by  Newark  Bay ;  the  islands  lie  from  1| 
mile  to  3  miles  to  the  E.  From  the  shores,  which  are 
haunted  by  myriads  of  sea-birds,  the  surface  of  the 
peninsula  rises  to  a  somewhat  tabular  summit.  The 
soil  consists  mostly  of  loam,  resting  on  red  clay,  and  is 
highly  susceptible  of  improvements,  such  as  draining 
and  a  liberal  application  of  shell  sand,  of  which  there  is 
an  inexhaustible  supply.  From  50  to  60  boats  are  em- 
ployed in  the  herring  fishery ;  kelp  is  manufactured ; 
and  very  strong  ropes,  fitted  for  various  economic  pur- 
2)Ose8  of  the  farmer,  are  made  from  the  shoots  of  Empe- 
trum  nigrum,  from  the  roots  of  Arundo  arcnaria,  and 
from  the  herbage  of  Holcus  lanatus.  Several  tumuli 
are  on  the  higher  grounds  ;  and  remains  of  a  large 
Pict's  house,  called  Dingy's  Howe  or  Duncan's  Height, 
stand  near  the  end  of  the  isthmus.  The  parish  is  united 
quoad  civilia  to  St  Andrews,  from  which,  however,  it 
was  separated  quoad  sacrain  1845;  Deerness  itself  being 
a  living  in  the  presbytery  of  Kirkwall  and  synod  of 
Orkney,  with  stii>end  of  £120,  a  manse,  and  3  acres  of 
glebe.  The  church  was  originally  a  parliamentary 
one.  There  is  also  a  Free  church  ;  and  three  public 
schools — Deerness,  St  Andrews,  and  Tankerness — with 
respective  accommodation  for  155,  55,  and  80  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  92,  50,  and  44, 
and  grants  of  £80,  4s.,  £41,  and  £33,  14s.  Valuation 
of  civil  parish  (1881)  £1976,  16s.  6d.  Pop.  of  same 
(1801)  660,  (1831)  661,  (1861)  831,  (1871)  863,  (1881) 
867. 

Deer,  New,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  Buchan  district, 
NE  Aberdeensliire.  The  village  stands  towards  the 
middle  of  tlie  parish,  2|  miles  WSW  of  ilaud  Junction, 
this  being  13  miles  W  by  N  of  Peterhead,  16  SSW  of 
Fraserburgh,  antl  31^  N  by  E  of  Aberdeen,  under  which 
New  Deer  has  a  jwst  office,  with  money  order  and 
savings'  bank  departments.  Anciently  called  Auch- 
rcddie,  it  includes  at  its  south-eastern  cutskirt  a  suburb 
retaining  that  name  ;  and  it  straggles  for  over  a  7nile 
along  the  ascending  ridge  of  a  steepish  liill.  Within 
recent  years  it  has  undergone  great  improvement,  good 
new  dwelling-houses  having  taken  the  place  of  low  old 
huts  ;  and  it  has  branches  of  the  North  of  Scotland  and 


DEER,  NEW 

Aberdeen  Town  and  County  banks,  11  insurance  agencies, 

2  local  savings'  banks,  2  hotels,  a  market-place,  a 
public  hall  (1864),  a  children's  library,  agricultural 
and  horticultural  societies,  and  fairs  on  the  third 
Wednesday  of  January,  the  "Wednesday  after  12  April, 
the  Thursday  before  "26  May,  the  Wednesday  after 
19  June,  the  second  Tuesday  of  August,  the  Wed- 
nesday after  19  October,  and  the  Thursday  after  22 
November.  A  public  school,  ^^'ith  accommodation  for 
240  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  163, 
and  a  grant  of  £139,  17s.  Pop.  (1861)  475,  (1871)  643, 
(1881)  753. 

The  parish,  containing  also  part  of  New  JIaud,  is 
bounded  N  bv  Tj-rie,  NE  by  Strichen,  E  by  Old  Deer, 
SE  and  S  by  Ellon,  SW  by  Tarves  and  Methlick,  W  by 
Fj-vie  and  ilonquhitter,  and  NW  by  King-Edward. 
In  outline  rudely  resembling  a  triangle  with  south- 
.south-eastward  apex,  it  has  an  utmost  length  from 
NNW  to  SSE  of  12^  miles,  an  utmost  breadth  from  E 
to  W  of  5f  miles,  and  an  area  of  26,765  acres.  The 
drainage  is  mainly  carried  eastward  by  head-streams  of 
South  Ugie  Water  ;  but  the  Burns  of  Elrick  or  Nether- 
muir  and  AUathan  or  Asleed,  flowing  southward  to  the 
Ythan,  trace  much  of  the  eastern  and  western  borders. 
The  surface,  sinking  to  197  feet  above  sea-level  near 
Tillysnaught  at  the  south-eastern  angle  of  the  parish, 
and  to  196  near  New  Maud  on  the  eastern  boundary, 
thence  rises  gently  north-north-westward  and  north- 
westward to  440  feet  near  Muckle  Clofrickford,  540  near 
Barrack,  503  at  the  Hill  of  Culsh,  529  near  Corsehill, 
619  at  the  Hill  of  Corsegight,  487  at  Whin  Hill,  and 
630  at  Bonnykelly  ;  of  which  the  Hill  of  Culsh,  i  mile 
beyond  the  Free  church,  so  far  overlooks  the  surround- 
ing country  as  on  a  clear  day  to  command  a  view  to 
Peterhead,  Bennochie,  the  Bin  of  CuUen,  and  Ben 
Rinnes.  The  district  toward  the  NE  and  the  SE,  to 
the  extent  of  7  or  8  miles,  looks  almost  like  one  con- 
tinuous cornfield,  dotted  with  green  crops,  and  ter- 
minated by  a  gentle  rising-gi'ound  in  the  form  of  an 
amphitheatre.  Granite  is  the  prevailing  rock ;  but 
limestone,  of  coarse  quality,  has  been  worked  on  the 
lands  of  Barrack.  Moss  covers  an  inconsiderable  area, 
which  yearly  grows  less  and  less,  owing  to  plant- 
ing, reclamation,  or  consumption  as  fuel.  The  soil, 
with  few  exceptions,  is  light  and  shallow,  and  over 
a  great  proportion  of  the  land  rests  on  an  iron-bound 
pan  from  6  inches  to  2  feet  thick.  Remains  in  the 
mosses  indicate  the  existence  of  a  primeval  forest ;  but 
now,  except  at  Brucklay,  Artamford,  and  Nethermuir, 
the  parish  is  rather  poorly  off  for  trees.  Fedderat 
Castle,  2§  miles  NNE  of  the  village,  was  anciently  a 
strong  six-storied  structure,  surrounded  partly  by  a 
morass,  partly  by  a  fosse,  and  approachable  only  by  a 
causeway  and  a  drawbridge  ;  but  is  now  an  utter  ruin. 
Ancient  Caledonian  standing  stones,  a  rocking-stone, 
and  stone  circles,  in  various  places,  have  nearly  all  been 
destro3'ed  ;  some  tumuli  have  yielded  urns  and  sarco- 
phagi. At  Brucehill,  2  miles  W  of  the  village,  Edward 
Bruce  is  said  to  have  encamped,  before  he  defeated  the 
Comyns  at  Aikey  Brae  (1308).  Brucklay  Castle 
and  Nethermuir  House  are  the  chief  mansions  ;  and 
10  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  more,  93  of 
less,  than  £100.  In  the  presbytery  of  Deer  and  synod 
of  Aberdeen,  New  Deer  gives  olf  portions  to  the  quoad 
sacra  parishes  of  Savoch,  Newbyth,  and  New  Pitsligo  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £380.  The  parish  church,  built  at 
the  village  in  1838,  in  place  of  an  earlier  one  of  1622, 
is  a  Third  Pointed  edifice,  with  1500  sittings,  and  a 
tower,  completed  in  1865.     A  neat  Free  church  stands 

3  furlongs  NNW  of  the  parish  church,  and  Artamford 
U.  P.  church  |  mile  NE  ;  the  latter,  rebuilt  in  1876  at  a 
cost  of  £1400,  is  Gothic  in  style,  and  contains  420 
sittings.  There  are  also  another  U.  P.  church  at  ^Vhite- 
hill  (3^  miles  N),  a  Congregational  chapel,  and  a  few 
Plymouth  Brethren.  Eight  schools — Brucklay,  Cairn- 
banno.  New  Deer,  Knaven,  Oldwhat,  Whitehill,  Bonny- 
kelly, and  Honeynook — with  total  accommodation  for 
1029  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  569, 
and  grants  amounting  to  £525,  6s.  6d.     Valuation  (1843) 


DEEB,  OLD 

£10,905,  (1881)  £23,211,  4s.  7d.  Pop.  of  parish  (1»01) 
2984,  (1831)  3525,  (1861)  4385,  (1871)  4853;  of  regis- 
tration district  (1871)  4147,  (1881)  4097.— Ore?.  Sur., 
sh.  87,  1876. 

Deer,  Old,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  Buchan,  NE 
Aberdeenshire.  The  village  stands,  134  feet  above  sea- 
level,  on  the  right  bank  of  South  Ugie  Water,  \\  mile 
SW  by  W  of  Alintlaw  station,  this  being  %\  miles 
W  by  N  of  Peterhead,  3^  E  by  N  of  Maud  Junction, 
and  35  N  by  E  of  Aberdeen.  An  ancient  place,  it 
has  been  mostly  rebuilt  within  the  past  half  centurj', 
and  has  a  post  office  under  Mintlaw,  a  branch  of  the 
North  of  Scotland  Banking  Co.,  a  savings'  bank  (1825), 
an  inn,  a  fair  (St  Drostan's)  on  the  Wednesday  after 
19  Dec,  and  two  public  schools,  which,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  167  scholars  and  81  girls,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  119  and  58,  and  grants  of 
£92,  15s.  and  £52,  14s. 

The  parish  also  contains  the  villages  of  Stuartfield, 
Clola,  and  Fetterangus,  \\  mile  S  by  W,  3|  miles  SSE, 
and  2J  miles  NNE,  of  Old  Deer  village.  Its  north- 
eastern portion  forming  a  detached  section  of  Banfl'- 
shire,  it  is  bounded  N  W  and  N  by  Strichen,  NE  by  Lon- 
may,  E  by  Longside,  SE  by  Cruden,  S  by  Cruden  and 
Ellon,  and  W  by  New  Deer.  Its  utmost  length,  from 
N  to  S,  is  9  J  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies 
between  4  and  6|  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  27, 439 J  acres, 
of  which  2812  belong  to  the  Banffshire  portion.  South 
Ugie  Water  has  here  an  east-south-easterly  course  of  6^ 
miles  ;  North  Ugie  Water  winds  7  miles  east-south- 
eastward along  all  the  northern  and  north-eastern 
border  ;  and  before  Pitfour  House  is  an  artificial  lake  of 
45  acres  (3§  x  1  furl.);  whilst  springs,  either  pure  or 
chalybeate,  are  numerous,  and  some  of  them  bear  such 
names  as  Grinie's,  Lady,  Abbey,  Chapel,  and  Annie's 
Well.  The  sm-face,  everywhere  undulating,  presents  an 
assemblage  of  low  rounded  hills,  most  of  them  culti- 
vated to  the  very  top  ;  at  Baluss  Bridge,  on  the  eastern 
border,  it  sinks  to  100  feet  above  sea-level,  and  rises 
thence  north-westward  to  397  feet  at  Drinnies  AVood, 
410  at  Knapperty  Hill,  432  at  Braeside,  and  466  at 
White  Cow  Wood — westward  and  south-westward  to 
292  at  Wuddyhill,  460  at  Wind  Hill,  551  at  the  HUl  of 
Dens,  465  near  Bulwark,  423  near  Little  Elrick,  407 
near  Littlemill,  420  at  Slampton  Hill,  and  392  at 
Windy  Hill — south-south-westward  and  south-south- 
eastward to  474  at  Skelmuir  Hill,  478  near  Wester 
Craighead,  and  469  at  Smallburn  Hill.  The  prevailing 
rocks  are  granite,  syenite,  and  limestone,  which  have 
been  largely  worked  at  Aikey  Brae  and  other  places  ; 
and  blocks  occur  of  gneiss  and  pure  white  quartz.  The 
soil  is  very  diversified,  ranging  from  argillaceous  to 
loamy,  sandy,  or  gravelly.  The  woods  and  plantations 
of  Aden,  Pitfour,  and  Kinmundy  cover  a  large  extent, 
and  those  of  the  two  first  comprise  some  very  fine  hard- 
wood trees.  Woollen  mills  are  at  MUlbreck  and  Aden,  a 
brewery  and  a  distillery  at  Biffie.  About  580  Columba 
and  Drostan,hisnephew,  came  from lona  unto  Aberdour, 
and  thence  to  the  other  town,  which  pleased  Columba, 
because  it  was  full  of  God's  grace  ;  and  he  asked  of  the 
Mormaer  Bede  to  give  it  him,  and  he  would  not.  But, 
his  son  falling  sick,  the  Mormaer  went  to  the  clerics  to 
ask  a  prayer  of  them,  and  gave  them  in  offering  from 
Cloch  in  tiprat  to  Clock  pette  mic  Garnait.  They 
made  the  prayer  and  health  returned.  Then  Columba 
gave  Drostan  that  cathair,  and  blessed  it,  and  left  as  his 
word,  '  Whosoever  come  against  it,  let  him  not  be  many- 
yeared  victorious.'  Drostan  weeping  as  the}'  parted, 
said  Columba,  'Let  Deer*  be  its  name  henceforward.' 
Dowai  to  the  reign  of  David  I.  (1124-53)  this  Columban 
monastery  retained  unimpaired  its  clerical  element  and 
Celtic  character,  according  to  the  priceless  testimony  of 
certain  Gaelic  notices  written  during  that  reign  on  the 
blank  pages  of  the  Book  of  Deer,  a  Latin  MS.  of  the  9tli 
century  containing  St  John's  and  parts  of  the  other  three 
gospels,  the  Apostles'  Creed,  and  a  fragment  of  an  office 
for  the  vi-sitation  of  the  sick,  which  MS. ,  discovered  by 

*  I.e.,  Gael,  der,  now  deiir,  'a  tear.'  Dair,  'an  oak,'  has  been 
suggested  as  a  more  likely  etymon. 

349 


DEEE,  SAVOCH  OF 

Mr  H.  Bradshaw  in  1S60  in  the  library  of  Cambridge 
Uuiversitv,  was  ably  edited  for  the  Spalding  Club  by  the 
late  Dr  John  Stuart  in  1S69  (Skene's  Celtic  Scotland, 
vols,  ii.,  iii.,  1877-SO).  St  Mary's  Abbey  of  Deer,  on  the 
left  bank  of  South  Ugie  Water,  %  mile  WNW  of  the 
village,  was  founded,  either  in  1218  or  1219,  by  William 
Comyu,  Earl  of  Buchan,  for  monks  of  the  Cistercian 
order,  being  colonised  by  three  brethren  from  KjTiloss  ; 
the  last  of  its  abbots,  Robert  Keith,  second  son  of  the 
fourth  Earl  Marischal,  obtained  the  erection  of  its  lands 
into  the  temporal  lordship  of  Altrie  (15S7).  Early 
English  in  style,  red  sandstone  in  material,  the  ruins 
were  enclosed  and  cleared  of  rubbish  in  1809,  when  it 
appeared  that  the  cruciform  church  must  have  consisted 
of  chancel,  transept,  and  five-bayed  nave  with  N  aisle, 
the  whole  measuring  150  by  from  27  to  38^  feet,  or  90 
across  the  transept.  Here  has  been  localised  the  ballad 
of  '  Sir  James  the  Rose,'  whose  grave  is  also  shown  at 
Haddo  in  Crimond  ;  on  Aikey  13rae  the  Comyns  were 
finally  routed  by  Edward  Bruce  ;  and  by  Aikey-side  one 
of  their  line,  an  Earl  of  Buchan,  is  said,  by  his  death, 
whilst  hunting,  to  have  verified  Thomas  the  Rhymer's 
prediction.  Vestiges  remain  of  six  stone  circles  ;  several 
cairns  have  j-ielded  stone  cists  and  m-ns  ;  flint  imple- 
ments have  been  found  in  great  abundance  ;  and  other 
antiquities  are  the  ruinous  manor-house  of  Clachriach 
and  remains  of  the  small  old  parish  church  of  Fetter 
angus.  The  Stone  of  Deer,  a  syenite  block  standing  6 
Itet  out  of  the  ground  at  the  NW  corner  of  the  old 
Abbey  church,  is  figured  in  the  Sculptured  Stones  of 
Scotland  (1867),  but  was  demolished  about  1854.  The 
principal  mansions  are  Pitfouk,  Kinmuxdt,  and  Aden, 
the  last  a  good  modern  buUding,  3  furlongs  ENE  of  the 
village,  whose  o^vner,  Jas.  Geo.  Ferguson  Russell,  Esq. 
(b.  1836  ;  sue.  1875),  holds  8402  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £6989  per  annum.  The  rest  of  the  parish  is 
divided  among  16  proprietors,  10  holding  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  1  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  1  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  4  of  from  £20  to  £50. 
In  the  presbytery  of  Deer  and  synod  of  Aberdeen,  Old 
Deer  gives  olf  portions  to  the  q.  s.  parishes  of  Ardallie, 
Kintnmonth,  and  Savoch  of  Deer  ;  the  living  is  worth 
£388.  The  parish  church,  with  over  1000  sittings,  stands 
at  the  village,  and,  built  in  1788,  was  greatly  improved 
(1880-81)  at  a  cost  of  £2811,  the  walls  being  raised, 
an  entrance  porch  added,  a  memorial  window  inserted, 
and  a  clock-tower  and  spire,  103  feet  high,  erected  of 
Aikey  Brae  granite,  with  a  library  room  on  its  basement 
floor.  At  the  village  also  is  St  Drostan's  Episcopal 
church  (1851  ;  300  sittings).  Early  English  in  style,  and 
lich  in  painted  glass  ;  other  places  of  worship  are 
noticed  under  Stuartfield,  Maud,  and  Clola.  SLx 
schools,  all  public  but  the  last,  which  is  endowed,  are 
at  Bank,  Clochcan,  Bulwark,  Shannas,  Stuartfield 
(girls'),  and  Fetterangus  (do.) ;  and  these,  with  respec- 
tive accommodation  for  100,  110,  62,  110,  140,  and  76 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  61,  107,  43, 
94,  130,  and  69,  and  grants  of  £.jO,  8s.  6d.,  £72,  Is., 
£33,  19s.,  £73,  9s.,  £100,  6s.,  and  £61.  4s.  6d.  Valua- 
tion (1843)  £13,165,  (1882)  £30.372,  12^.  lOd.  Pop.  of 
civil  parish  (1801)  3552,  (1821)  3841,  (1841)  4453,  (1861) 
5174,  (1871)  5085,  (1881)  4935  ;  of  registration  district 
(ISSl)  4274.— O/tZ.  Sur.,  sh.  87,  1876. 

Deer,  Savoch  of.     See  Savoch. 

Deershaw,  a  village  in  the  N  of  Banffshire,  distant 
6  miles  trom  Banlf. 

Deer  Sound,  a  spacious  natural  harbour  on  the  E 
side  of  the  Mainland  of  Orkney,  entering  from  Stronsay 
Firth,  and  separating  the  parish  of  Deerness  from  that 
of  St  Andrews.  Lying  nearly  due  SW  and  NE,  and 
measuring  4  miles  in  length,  by  from  1  mile  to  2^ 
miles  in  breadth,  it  has  beautifully  winding  shores,  a 
clean  sandy  bottom  mi.ved  with  clay,  and  a  depth  of  6 
or  7  fathoms.  It  is  well  sheltered  from  all  winds,  and 
affords  in  many  parts  good  anchorage.  Any  number  of 
vessels  might  liere  find  refuge  ;  and  it  was  formerly 
frequented  by  whaling  ships  on  their  way  to  the  Arctic 
seas,  but  is  now  very  little  used. 

Deeside,  the  valley  of  the   Aberdeenshire  Dee,  or, 
.'<jO 


DELTING 

more  specially,  the  part  of  that  valley  downward  from 
Braemar  to  the  sea. 

Deil's  Beef-Tub.     See  Axnaxdale's  Beef-Stand. 

Deil's  Cauldron.    See  Devil's  Cauldron. 

Deil's  Causeway.     See  Stonehouse. 

Deil's  or  Plots'  Dyke,  a  long  line  of  ancient  fortifica- 
tion in  Galloway  and  Dumfriesshire,  commencing  at  Loch 
Ryan  near  lunermessan,  the  site  of  the  ancient  Rerigo- 
nium,  a  town  of  the  Novantae,  and  extending,  by  way 
of  MiuuigaQ',  Glencairn,  Penpont,  and  Lochmaben,  to 
the  upper  part  of  the  Solway  Firth  at  a  point  opposite 
the  western  extremity  of  the  Roman  wall  of  Hadrian 
across  the  N  of  England.  It  is  now  quite  obliterated  in 
many  parts,  and  more  or  less  obscm-e  in  many  others,  but 
still  in  some  is  very  distinct.  It  appears  to  have  been 
invariably  8  feet  broad  at  the  base,  to  have  had  a  fosse 
along  its  N  or  inland  side,  and  to  have  been  built,  in 
most  places,  of  unchiselled  blocks  of  common  moorstone ; 
in  others,  of  stone  and  earth  commingled ;  and  in  a  few,  as 
at  Hightae  Flow  in  Lochmaben  parish,  entirelj'  of  earth. 
It  separates  the  fertile  lands  of  the  seaboard  districts 
from  the  irreclaimable  wastes  and  \v\\A  fastnesses  of  the 
mountains,  and  may  be  presumed  to  have  been  built  by 
an  industrious  or  comparatively  settled  people  on  its 
southern,  as  a  defence  against  a  warlike  or  comparatively 
roving  people  on  its  northern,  side.  All  facts  respecting 
it,  however,  even  all  trustworthy  traditions,  have  been 
lost.  Chalmers,  the  author  of  Caledonia,  says,  in  a  letter 
to  Mr  Joseph  Train,  who  traced  the  Deil's  Dyke  from 
end  to  end  : — '  Considering  all  its  circumstances,  it  is 
extremely  difiicult  to  assign  its  age,  its  object,  or  its 
builders.  In  Ireland  there  is  nothing  like  the  Deil's 
Dike ;  the  inference  is  that  it  was  not  made  by  Irish 
hands.  I  am  disposed  to  think  that  this  work  is  several 
centuries  older  than  the  arrival  of  the  Irish  Cruithne 
in  Galloway.'  And  again: — 'It  is  obviously  a  very 
ancient  work,  and  was  probably  formed  by  the  Romanised 
Britons  after  the  departure  of  the  Roman  armies. ' — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  3,  4,  8,  9,  10,  6,  1856-64. 

Deil's  Dyke,  a  denudated  trap  dyke  projecting  from  the 
general  line  of  the  SE  coast  of  Big  Cumbrae  island  in 
Buteshire.     See  Cujibrae. 

Deil's  Mill.    See  Devil's  Mill. 

Delfour,  a  place,  with  ancient  Caledonian  monuments, 
in  Alvie  parish,  Inverness-shire,  1|  mile  WSW  of  Alvie 
church.  The  monuments  are  a  central  cairn,  two  con- 
centric circles  of  standing  stones  around  the  caii-n,  and 
an  obelisk,  8^  feet  high,  25  feet  to  the  W. 

Delgaty  Castle.     See  Dalgety. 

Delney,  a  station  on  the  Highland  railway,  in  Kilmuir 
Easter  parish,  Ross-shire,  3^  miles  NE  of  Invergordon. 

DeLnies.     See  Nairn. 

Deloraine,  two  pasture  farms  in  Kirkhope  parish, 
Selkirkshire,  13  miles  SW  of  Selkirk.  The  title  of  Earl 
of  Deloraine  in  the  peerage  of  Scotland  was  conferred  in 
1706  on  Henry  Scott,  second  surviving  son  of  the  Duke 
of  Monmouth,  and  became  extinct  at  the  death  of  his 
grandson,  the  fourth  Earl,  in  1807. 

Delting,  a  parish  in  the  Mainland  of  Shetland,  in- 
cluding the  islands  of  Bigga,  Fishholm,  Brother  Isle, 
Little  Roe,  and  Jluckle  Roe,  only  the  last  of  which  is 
inhabited.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Yell  Sound,  separating 
it  from  Yell ;  E  by  Lunnasting  and  Nesting ;  S  by 
Weesdale  and  Sandsting ;  and  W  by  St  Magnus  Bay 
and  Sulein  Voe.  Joined  to  Northmaven  by  a  narrow 
neck  of  land,  less  than  100  feet  broad,  that  seimrates 
the  German  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  it  has  an  utmost 
length  of  20  miles,  and  varies  in  breadth  from  3  to  6 
miles,  being  much  intersected  by  voes  or  arms  of  the 
sea.  The  surface  is,  for  the  most  part,  hilly,  bleak, 
and  barren  ;  but  along  the  banks  of  the  voes  and  in 
the  valleys  are  patches  of  good  arable  land.  The  chief 
harbours  are  St  Magnus  Bay,  Sulem  Voe,  Olnafirth 
Voe,  Busta  Voe,  and  Goufirth  Voe.  In  the  island  of 
iluckle  Roe  there  is  some  fine  rock  scenery ;  and  the 
sea  washes  into  several  large  caves — the  haunts  of 
numerous  wild  birds.  There  are  remains  of  an  ancient 
artificial  harbour  at  Burravoe,  and  some  vestiges  of 
a  I'ictish  house   at   Brough,    on   Yell  Sound.      Fully 


DELVINE 

one-half  of  the  parish  belongs  to  the  estate  of  the 
Gitfords  of  Busta.  The  next  largest  proprietor  is 
Major  Cameron  of  Garth.  The  other  properties  are 
small.  The  principal  residences  are  Busta,  Garth, 
Udhouse,  Mossbank,  and  Voe.  There  are  large  stores 
and  fish-curing  establishments  at  Voe,  Brae,  and  Moss- 
bank.  Delting  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Olnafirth  and 
synod  of  Shetland ;  the  stipend  is  £150,  with  9  merks 
of  glebe  and  a  good  manse.  There  are  two  parish 
churches,  distant  about  10  miles  fi'om  one  another,  viz., 
Scatsta,  built  in  1811,  and  Olnafirth  in  1868.  There 
are  also  a  Free  church  at  Brae  and  a  U.P.  church  at 
Mossbank ;  and  the  six  schools  of  Brae,  Goufirth, 
Firth,  Muckle  Roe,  Olnafirth,  and  Mossbank,  with 
total  accommodation  for  254  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  -164,  and  grants  amounting  to 
£201,  14s.  Valuation  (1882)  £2361,  12s.  8d.  Pop. 
(1801)  1449,  (1831)  2070,  (1861)  1975,  (1871)  1862, 
(1881) 1654. 

Delvine,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Caputh  parish, 
Perthshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Tay,  4^  miles  NE  of 
Mui'thly  station,  and  74  ESE  of  Dunkeld.  Its  owner, 
Sir  Alex.  Muir-Mackenzie,  third  Bart,  since  1805  (b. 
1840  ;  sue.  1855),  holds  4241  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £6420  per  annum. 

Demyat.     See  Dunmyat. 

Den,  a  village  in  Abdie  parish,  Fife,  near  the  Lady- 
bank  and  Perth  railway,  l|  mile  SE  of  Newburgh. 

Den,  a  village  of  recent  and  rapid  growth  in  Dairy 
parish,  AjTshire,  2J  miles  NE  of  Dairy  to^vn.  At  it  is 
Kersland  Barony  Church  of  Scotland  school,  which, 
with  accommodation  for  281  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  167,  and  a  grant  of  £116,  3s. 

Denbrae,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  St  Andrews 
parish,  Fife,  2f  miles  WSW  of  the  town. 
Denbum.     See  Aberdeen. 

Den  Fenella,  a  romantic  ravine,  traversed  by  a  burn, 
in  Garvock  and  St  Cjtus  parishes,  Kincardineshire.  It 
commences  about  Ih  mile  E  by  S  of  Laurencekirk,  and 
extends  3^  miles  south-eastward  to  the  sea,  at  a  point 
1|  mile  SW  of  Johnshaven.  It  took  its  name  from 
Fenella  or  Finvela,  daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Angus,  in 
the  time  of  Kenneth  III. ;  and  here  she  is  said  to  have 
been  slain  by  her  pursuers  as  she  fled  from  Kincardine 
Castle,  after  the  murder  of  the  king  at  Fettercairn 
through  her  treachery  (995).  Its  beauties  of  crag  and 
chasm  and  wooded  bank  have  often  been  celebrated 
in  prose  and  verse ;  near  its  mouth  is  a  beautiful 
■waterfall,  65  feet  in  leap  ;  and  its  stream  is  spanned 
by  a  handsome  bridge  and  by  the  viaduct  of  the  Bervie 
railway. 

Denfind,  a  steep  winding  ravine,  traversed  by  Pitairlie 
Burn,  in  Monikie  parish,  Forfarshire.  It  bisects  a 
reach  of  hill  in  the  central  part  of  the  parish  ;  and,  at  a 
point  where  its  sides  are  precipitous,  is  spanned  by  a 
massive  one-arched  bridge. 

Denhead,  a  village,  with  a  public  school,  in  Cameron 
parish,  Fife,  3  miles  SW  of  St  Andi'cws,  under  which  it 
has  a  post  office. 

Denhead  and  Denmill,  a  conjoint  village,  with  a  spin- 
ning-mill, in  Litf  and  Benvie  parish,  Forfarshire,  2 
miles  W  of  Lochee. 

Denhead  of  Auchmacoy,  a  hamlet,  vrith  a  public 
school,  in  Logie- i^>uclian  parish,  E  Aberdeenshire,  2^ 
miles  E  by  N  of  Ellon,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office. 

Denholm,  a  village  in  Cavers  parish,  Roxburghshire, 
on  a  low  plateau  above  the  right  bank  of  the  Teviot,  2 
miles  E  of  Hassendean  station,  and  5  NE  of  Hawick. 
With  a  deep  wooded  dell  to  the  W,  called  Denholm- 
Dean,  it  forms  a  square  round  a  neatlj^-fenced  pul)lic 
green,  and  chiefly  consists  of  well-built  houses  with 
gardens  attached,  having  been  greatly  improved  by  the 
late  James  Douglas,  Esq.  of  Cavers.  Yet,  modern  as  it 
looks,  the  place  is  old,  since  we  read  of  its  burning  by 
Hertford  in  1545.  The  low,  thatched,  wliitewashed 
cottage  still  stands  on  the  N  side  of  the  village,  in  which 
was  bom  the  scholar-poet  John  Leyden  (1775-1811),  and 
in  the  middle  of  the  village  green  an  obelisk  was  erected 


DENNY 

to  his  memory  in  1861.  Inhabited  mainly  by  stocking 
weavers,  quarrymen,  and  farm  labourers,  Denholm  has 
a  post  office  under  Hawick,  with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  departments,  3  inns,  a 
stone  bridge  over  the  Teviot  (1864),  a  Free  church  (1844 ; 
364  sittings),  a  public  school,  an  excellent  sub.scription 
library,  a  horticultural  society  (1849),  and  public  water- 
works, which,  formed  in  1874  at  a  cost  of  more  than 
£700,  draw  their  supply  from  a  spring  nearly  2  miles 
distant,  and  afford  50  gallons  per  day  for  each  inhabi- 
tant. Pop.  (1861)  766,  (1871)  659,  (1881)  645.  See 
Cavers. 

Denino.     See  Dunino. 

Denmill,  Forfarshire.     See  Denhead. 

Denmiln  Castle.    See  Abdie. 

Dennissness,  a  headland  in  Cross  and  Bumess  parish, 
Sanday  island,  Orkney. 

Denjiiston.    See  Glasgow. 

Denniston.    See  Dumbarton. 

Denny,  a  to\vn  and  a  parish  of  SE  Stirlingshire.  The 
town  stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Carron,  opposite 
Dunipace,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  bridge  ;  by 
road  it  is  5^  mUes  WNW  of  Falkirk,  5^  NNE  of  Cum- 
bernauld, and  7i  S  by  E  of  Stirling,  whilst,  as  terminus 
of  a  branch  of  the  Scottish  Central  section  of  the  Cale- 
donian, opened  in  1859,  it  is  3f  miles  WNW  of  Larbert 
Junction,  32^  WNWof  Edinburgh,  and  25^  NE  of  Glas- 
gow. Only  a  small  village  down  to  the  close  of  last  cen- 
tury, it  is  almost  entirely  modern,  and  has  a  post  office, 
v\ith  money  order,  savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  tele- 
graph departments,  branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland 
and  Clydesdale  Bank,  13  insurance  agencies,  3  hotels,  a 
gas  company,  a  people's  hall,  library,  and  reading-room, 
an  Oddfellows'  hall,  and  fairs  on  the  AYednesdays  before 
12  May  and  after  11  November.  Large  public  schools 
were  built  in  1875  at  a  cost  of  £5000  ;  and  places  of 
worship  are  the  parish  church  (1813  ;  768  sittings)  with 
a  turreted  steeple  75  feet  high,  a  Free  church  (1843), 
a  U.P.  church  (1796;  reconstructed  1881),  and  the 
Roman  Catholic  church  of  St  Patrick  (1861).  In  1876 
Denny  and  Dunipace  were  formed  into  a  police  burgh, 
which,  governed  by  9  commissioners,  had  a  municipal 
constituency  of  580  in  1882.  Pop.  of  Denny  alone  (1841) 
1881,  (1851)  2446,  (1861)  2428,  (1871)  2433,  (1881)  2823; 
of  police  burgh  (1876)  3595,  (1881)  4081. 

Besides  part  of  Bonnybridge,  2|  miles  to  the  SSE, 
the  parish  contains  also  the  villages  of  Denny-Loanhead, 
Parkfoot,  Longcroft,  and  Haggs,  which  extend  con- 
tinuously along  the  Glasgow  highroad,  Denny-Loanhead 
being  IJ  mile  S,  and  Haggs  3|  miles  SSW,  of  Denny 
town.  It  is  bounded  NW  by  St  Ninians,  NE  and  E  by 
Dunipace,  SE  by  Falkirk,  SW  by  Cumbernauld  in  Dum- 
bartonshire (detached)  and  Kilsj-th,  and  W  by  Kilsyth. 
From  E  to  W  its  utmost  length  is  5|  miles  ;  its  width, 
from  N  to  S,  varies  between  5i  furlongs  and  3J  miles  ; 
and  its  area  is  8356|  acres,  of  which  48  are  water.  The 
Carron  winds  7^  miles  east-north-eastward  and  east- 
south-eastward  on  or  close  to  all  the  boundary  with  St 
Ninians  and  Dunipace ;  Bonny  Burn  runs  4f  miles  east- 
south-eastward  and  east-north-eastward  along  all  the 
Dumbartonshire  and  Falkirk  border  ;  and  three  others 
of  the  Carron's  affluents  flow  east-north-eastward  through 
the  interior.  At  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish  the 
surface  declines  along  the  Carron  to  100  feet  above  sea- 
level,  thence  rising  westward  to  234  feet  near  Hillend, 
400  near  Banknoc'k,  696  at  conical  ilyot  Hill,  563  near 
Leysbent,  460  at  Cowden  Hill,  965  at  Tardulf  Hill,  and 
1170  at  Darrach  Hill  upon  Denny  Muir.  The  rocks  are 
partly  eruptive,  partly  carboniferous  ;  and  the  soil  is 
loamy  along  the  Bonny  and  the  lower  reaches  of  the 
Carron,  gravelly  throughout  the  central  district,  and 
marshy  or  moorish  over  most  of  the  uplands.  Of  the 
entire  area,  5840  acres  are  in  tillage,  789  pasture,  1499 
waste,  and  only  181  under  wood.  Coal  and  ironstone 
are  mined,  and  employment  is  further  afforded  by  paper, 
chemical,  and  engine  works  at  Denny  town,  by  Carron- 
bank  Foundry  (1860)  and  Denny  iron-works  (1870),  by 
Bonnybridge  Columbian  stove  works  (1860),  foundry 
(I860),  and  malleable  iron-works  (1877),  and  by  Baukier 

351 


DENNY-LOANHEAD 

distillery.  Banknock  House  is  the  chief  mansion ;  and 
5  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  20  of  between  £100  and  £500,  37  of  from  £50 
to  £100,  and  70  of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the  presbytery 
of  Stirling  and  synod  of  Pertli  and  Stirling,  this  parish 
was  detached  from  Falkirk  in  161S,  and  is  now  divided 
ecclesiastically  among  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Haggs, 
Bonnybridge,  and  Dennv,  the  two  first  formed  in  1875 
and  1878,  and  the  last'  a  living  worth  £393.  Denny 
public  and  Roman  Catholic  and  Lawhill  and  Longcroft 
public  schools,  with  respective  accommodation  for  350, 
188,  50,  and  250  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  278,  115,  16,  and  236,  and  grants  of  £244, 
7s.  lOd.,  £113,  lis.,  £27,  18s.,  and  £2u6,  10s.  Valua- 
tion (1860)  £13,098  ;  (1882)  £24,820,  4s.  4d.,  including 
£1833  for  raUway.  Pop.  of  parish  (1801)  2033,  (1831) 
3843,  (1861)  4988,  (1871)  4993, (1881)  5728  ;  of  Denny 
registration  district  (1881)  4228.— Crc^.  Sur.,  sh.  31, 
1867. 

Denny-Loanhead,  a  village  in  Denny  parish,  Stirling- 
shire, \i  mile  S  of  Denny  town.  It  has  a  post  office 
under  Dennj',  and  a  U.P.  church,  which,  succeeding  one 
of  1735,  was  built  in  1815  at  a  cost  of  £1400,  and 
contains  731  sittings. 

Denoon,  a  glen,  traversed  by  a  burn,  in  Glamis  and 
Eassie  parishes,  W  Forfarshire.  Rising  on  the  north- 
eastern slope  of  Auchterhouse  Hill  (1399  feet),  the  burn 
^\^nds  6^  miles  north-by-westward,  till  it  falls  into  Dean 
"Water,  at  a  point  23  miles  WNW  of  Glamis  village. 
The  Sidlaws  at  its  head  and  along  its  course  have  alti- 
tudes of  from  1200  to  600  feet  above  sea-level ;  and  the 
tracts  flanking  its  lower  parts  subside  into  the  plain  of 
Strathmore.  Vestiges  of  an  ancient  fortification,  crown- 
ing isolated  Denoon  Law  (689  feet)  within  the  glen,  2^ 
miles  SW  of  Glamis  village,  comprise  foundations  of 
a  circular  wall  1020  feet  in  circumference  and  faint 
traces  of  interior  buildings,  and  bear  the  name  of 
Denoon  Castle.  The  circular  wall  is  believed  to  have 
been  30  feet  broad  and  27  feet  high,  and  the  entire  forti- 
fication is  supposed  to  have  been  designed  as  a  place  of 
retreat  in  times  of  danger. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  48,  56, 
1868-70. 

Denovan,  a  village,  a  calico-printing  establishment,  and 
an  estate  in  Dunipace  parish,  Stirlingshire.  The  village 
stands  near  Carron  Water,  |  mile  ENE  of  Denny,  and  has 
charming  environs.  The  calico-printing  establishment 
is  on  the  Carron,  adjacent  to  the  village  ;  was  com- 
menced in  the  year  1800  ;  and  employs  a  large  number 
of  persons,  many  of  whom  reside  in  Denny.  The  estate 
comprises  about  one-fourth  of  the  parish,  and  belongs  to 
Forbes  of  Callendar. 

Denside,  a  hamlet,  with  a  girls'  school,  in  Tannadico 
parish,  Forfarshire. 

Derclach,  a  loch  in  Straiton  parish,  S  Ayrshire. 
Lying  870  feet  above  sea-level,  it  has  an  utmost  length 
and  width  of  4i  and  1 J  furlongs,  and  sends  off  a  rivulet 
1  furlong  eastward  to  the  head  of  Loch  Finlas. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  8,  1863. 

Derculich,  an  estate,  ■with  a  mansion,  in  Dull  parish, 
Perthshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Tay,  3^  miles  NE 
of  Aberfeldy.  Loch  Derculich,  2  miles  to  the  NNW, 
falls  partly  within  a  detached  portion  of  Logierait  parish, 
and,  lying  about  1200  feet  above  sea-level,  has  an  utmost 
length  of  4 J  furlongs,  with  a  varying  width  of  1§  and  4 
furlongs.  It  contains  some  pike  anil  abundance  of  fine 
trout,  which  will  not,  however,  always  rise  to  the  fly  ; 
and  it  sends  off  Derculich  Burn,  running  2^  miles 
south-south-eastward  to  the  Tay. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  55, 
1869. 

Dergan  (Gael,  dcarfj-ahhuinn,  'red  river'),  a  rivulet 
in  Ardchattan  parish,  Argyll.shire,  rising  at  an  altitude 
of  1100  feet,  and  running  4^  miles  north-north-westward 
along  Glen  Salloch  and  tlirough  the  woods  of  Bak- 
CALUINK,  to  Loch  Creran. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  45,  1876. 

Demconner,  a  large  village  of  recent  growth  in  Auchin- 
leck  paiisii,  Ayrshire.  At  it  arc  a  Church  of  Scotland 
mission  station  (1874)  and  a  public  school.  Pop.  (1871) 
928,  (1881)  14.35. 

Demock.    See  Darnock. 
352 


DESKFORD 

Deny  or  Loch  an  Dithreibh,  a  lake  in  the  S  of  Tongue 
parish,  Sutherland,  6;^  miles  SSW  of  Tongue  church. 
Lying  268  feet  above  sea-level,  it  is  1^  mile  long  and  5 
furlongs  wide,  sends  ott'  the  Kinloch  to  the  head  of  the 
Kyle  of  Tongue,  and  abounds  in  yellow  trout. — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  114,  108,  1880. 

Derry,  a  burn  of  Crathie  and  Braemar  parish,  SW 
Aberdeenshire,  issuing  from  Loch  Etciiachan  (1320 
feet),  on  the  NE  side  of  Ben  Macdhui,  and  running  6^ 
miles  east-south-eastward  and  southward,  till  it  falls  into 
Lui  Water  at  Derry  Lodge  (1386  feet),  9  miles  WNW  of 
Castleton.  The  ordinary  ascent  of  Ben  Macdhui  is  up 
Glen  Derry,  which  the  Queen  in  her  Journal  describes  as 
'  very  fine,  with  the  remnants  of  a  splendid  forest, 
Derry  Cairngorm  (3788  feet)  being  to  the  right,  and 
Derry  Water  running  below.' — Ord.  Siir.,  shs.  64,  65, 
1874-70. 

Dervaig,  a  village,  with  public  and  girls'  schools,  in 
Kilniniau  parish.  Mull  island,  Argyllshire,  at  the  head 
of  Loch  Cuan,  8f  miles  WSW  of  Tobermory. 

Derval.     See  Darvel. 

Deskford,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  the  N  of  Banff- 
shire. The  village,  Kirktown  of  Deskford,  stands  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Burn  of  Deskford,  4  miles  S  of 
Cullen,  like  Mhich  it  has  a  post  ofiice  under  Fochabers. 

Bounded  NE  and  E  by  Fordyce,  S  by  Grange,  and  NW 
and  N  by  Rathven,  the  parish  has  an  utmost  length  from 
NNE  to  SSW  of  4J  miles,  an  utmost  breadth  of  3 
miles,  and  an  area  of  8170  acres,  of  which  15  are  water. 
Deskford  Burn,  with  a  north-north-easterly  course 
here  of  5|  miles,  divides  the  parish  into  two  pretty 
equal  halves  ;  and  the  surface,  sinking  at  the  northern 
extremity  to  close  on  100  feet  above  sea-level,  thence 
rises  southward  to  353  feet  at  the  wooded  Gallows 
Knowe,  556  at  Cotton  Hill,  504  at  Weston,  845  at  the 
Hill  of  Clashmadin,  871  at  Black  Hill,  and  1028  at 
Lurg  Hill,  whose  summit,  however,  falls  just  within 
Grange.  Numerous  small  cascades  occur  on  the  Desk- 
ford's  affluents,  one  of  them,  called  the  Linn,  being  a  series 
of  leaps  with  total  fall  of  30  feet,  and  with  surroundings 
of  high  beauty.  The  rocks,  having  undergone  great 
geognostic  disturbance,  include  almost  vertical  strata  of 
mica  slate,  with  fragments  of  quartz  embedded  therein, 
and  a  rich  bed  of  fine  compact  limestone,  which  has  been 
largely  worked.  The  soil,  in  the  strath,  is  chiefly  loam 
resting  on  strong  deep  clay  ;  but,  toward  the  hills,  is 
light,  black,  mossy  humus,  overlying  clay  and  gravel. 
About  one-third  of  the  entire  area  is  either  regularly  or 
occasionally  in  tillage  ;  some  600  acres  are  under  wood, 
either  natural  or  planted  ;  and  the  rest  is  either  pasture 
or  waste.  This  parish  has  long  been  the  property  of 
the  Earls  of  Findlater  and  Seafield ;  and  Deskford 
Tower,  which,  standing  near  the  village,  was  demolished 
within  this  century,  was  the  ancient  family  seat.  Skeith 
Castle,  once  also  a  striking  feature,  has  left  no  vestiges ; 
and  another  venerable  edifice,  probably  baronial,  but 
possibly  ecclesiastical,  stood  in  the  garden  of  Inalterie 
farmhouse,  and  is  now  represented  by  only  a  vault. 
A  curious  relic,  found  about  1816  in  a  mossy  knoll 
adjacent  to  that  old  vault,  con.sisted  of  brass  some- 
what in  the  form  and  of  the  size  of  a  swine's  head, 
with  a  wooden  tongue  moved  by  springs,  and  with 
tolerably  e.xact  representations  of  eyes  ;  it  is  now  in  the 
museum  of  the  Banft'  Scientific  Institution.  Deskford 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Fordyce  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £355.  A  new  parish  church.  Pointed 
Gothic  in  style,  was  built  in  1872  at  a  cost  of  £1000, 
and  contains  500  sittings.  There  is  also  a  Free  church  ; 
and  a  new  public  school,  erected  in  1876  at  a  cost  of 
£1182,  with  accommodation  for  162  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  111,  and  a  grant  of  £97,  8s.  6d. 
Valuation  (1882)  £4441,  8s.  Pop.  (1801)  610,  (1831) 
828,  (1861)  1031,  (1871)  972,  (1881)  849.— Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  96,  1876. 

Deskford  or  Cullen  Bum,  a  rapid,  deep-channelled 
stream  of  Banffshire,  rising  in  the  S  of  Deskfoid  parish, 
and  tiience  winding  7^  miles  north-eastward-north, 
north-westward,  and  again  north-eastward  till  it  falls 
into  the  Moray  Firth  at  Cullen  Bay. 


DESKRY 


DEVON 


Deskry,  a  rivulet  of  SW  Aberdeenshire,  rising,  at  an 
altitude  of  ISOO  feet,  on  the  western  shoulder  of  Morven 
Hill  (2862  feet);  close  to  the  meeting-point  of  Glenniuiek, 
Logie-Coldstone,  and  Strathdon  parislies.  Thence  it 
\sinds  10  miles  north-north-eastward  and  west-south- 
westward,  between  Logie-Coldstono  and  Strathdon  par- 
ishes, across  the  Migvie  district  of  Tarland  parish,  and 
between  that  district  and  Towie  parish,  till  it  falls  into 
the  Don  i  mile  E  of  Castle-Newe.  Its  trout  are  small 
but  excellent. — Onl.  Sur.,  sh.  75,  1876. 

Dess,  a  station  in  the  NE  of  Aboyne  parish,  Aber- 
deenshire, on  the  Deeside  railway,  3  miles  NE  of  Aboyne 
station. 

Deuchar,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Fearn  parisli, 
Forfarshire,  S  miles  W  by  N  of  Brechin. 

Deuchar.     See  Yarrow. 

Deugh,  a  stream  of  Carsphairn  parish,  N  Kirkcud- 
brightshire, rising  on  the  eastern  slope  (2000  feet)  of 
Windy  Standard,  and  thence  curving  5  miles  westward 
along  the  Ayrshire  border,  next  15  miles  southward, 
east-south-eastward,  and  southward  again  through  the 
interior,  till,  at  the  SE  angle  of  the  parish,  and  at  a 
point  7  miles  NNW  of  New  Galloway,  it  falls  into  the 
Ken,  after  a  descent  of  1620  feet. — Ord.  Sur,,  shs.  15, 
14,  8,  9,  1863-64. 

Devar.     See  Davaee. 

Deveron  or  Doveran  (Gael,  da-abhuinn,  'double 
river'),  a  river  of  Aberdeen  and  Banft'  shires,  rising  in 
two  main  head-streams — whence  the  name — among  the 
mountains  of  Cabrach,  the  longer  of  the  two  having  its 
source  on  the  mutual  border  of  Cabrach  and  Glenbucket 
parishes,  3  miles  SW  of  the  summit  of  the  Buck  of  Cab- 
rach (2368  feet).  Thence  it  has  a  total  course  of  61g  miles, 
viz.,  25^  from  its  source  to  the  Bridge  of  Gibston  near 
Huntly,  24  thence  to  Eastside  Bridge  near  Turriff,  and 
12§  thence  to  its  mouth  ;  and  during  this  course  it  de- 
scends from  1847  feet  above  sea-level  at  its  source  to  414 
near  Huntly  and  114  near  Turriff.  It  partly  winds  along 
in  serpentine  folds,  but,  on  the  whole,  goes  north-east- 
ward to  the  influx  of  the  Bogie  below  Huntly,  northward 
thence  to  Rothiemay,  eastward  or  east-north-eastward 
thence  to  the  vicinity  of  Turriff,  and  northward  thence 
to  the  Moray  Firth.  Its  connections  with  respectively 
Aberdeenshire  and  Banffshire  are  so  fitful,  leading  it 
now  into  the  one  county,  now  into  the  other,  now  along 
the  boundary  between  the  two,  as  to  render  it  more  a 
pjuzzler  than  an  expounder  in  political  topography  ;  yet, 
in  one  long  sweep,  from  above  Glass  church  to  the 
vicinity  of  Rothiemay  church,  it  runs  entirely  mthin 
Aberdeenshire  ;  and  over  another  long  sweep,  from  a 
point  4  mUes  AVSW  of  Turriff'  to  its  mouth  at  the  Moray 
FirtL,  it  roughly  traces  the  boundary  line  between  the 
shires.  The  parishes  immediately  watered  by  it, 
whether  through  their  interior  or  along  their  confines, 
are  Cabrach,  Glass,  Huntly,  Cairnie,  Fordyce,  Rothie- 
may, ilarnoch,  Inverkeithny,  Turriff',  Forglen,  Alvah, 
King-Edward,  Banff,  and  Gamrie.  The  river,  in  the 
upper  part  of  its  course,  is  a  mountain  stream,  careering 
along  a  series  of  glens,  always  rapid,  sometimes  impetuous, 
and  occasionally  subject  to  tremendous  freshets.  All 
the  bridges  on  it  above  Huntly  were  swept  away  by  the 
great  flood  of  Aug.  1829,  when  at  Huntly  it  rose  22 
feet  above  its  ordinary  level.  But  its  march,  in  the 
middle  and  lower  parts  of  its  course,  is  tranquil  and 
beautiful,  through  fertile  plains,  amid  brilliant  em- 
bellishments of  wood  and  mansion,  with  several  stretches 
of  close  scenery  as  exquisitely  fine,  in  both  nature  and 
art,  as  almost  any  in  Great  Britain.  The  fertility  of 
its  banks,  like  that  of  the  banks  of  the  Don,  is  celebrated 
in  both  proverb  and  song.  Its  chief  tributary,  besides 
the  Blackwater  and  Bogie,  is  the  Isla,  which  joins  it  a 
little  above  Rothiemay.  The  Deveron,  thence  to  tlie 
sea,  is  about  two-thirds  the  size  of  the  Don.  Well 
stocked  \vith  salmon  and  trout,  it  is  mostly  preserved, 
except  about  Huntly  ;  and  it  has  bag-net  fisheries  on 
either  side  of  its  mouth,  extending  into  the  sea.  A 
shifting  bar  here  varies  with  gales  of  wind,  and  under- 
went such  change  in  1834  as  first  to  close  entirely  the 
former  mouth,  and  next  to  lay  open  a  new  one  600 
23 


yards  further  to  the  E ;  hence  disputes  have  arisen 
among  the  cruive  owners  as  to  the  line  of  the  river's 
bed.  The  salmon  fishings  up  the  river  belong  chiefly  to 
the  Earl  of  Fife,  partly  also  to  Abercromby  of  Forglen 
and  Gordon  of  ]\layen  ;  those  at  its  mouth  belong  partly 
to  the  Earl,  partly  to  the  town  of  Banff. — Ord.  Sni:, 
shs.  75,  85,  86,  96,  1876.  See  chap.  xxi.  of  Sir  Thomas 
Dick  Lauder's  Moray  Floods  (Elgin,  1830  ;  3d  ed.  1873). 

Devil's  Cauldron,  an  ancient  circular  structure  in 
Kingarth  parish.  Isle  of  Bute,  a  little  AV  of  the  head  of 
Kilchattan  Bay,  and  7  miles  S  of  Rothesay.  It  is 
situated  within  a  grove,  not  far  from  the  ruins  of  St 
Blank's  Chapel,  of  which  it  was  an  appendage  and  ^^'ith 
wiiich  it  probably  communicated  by  a  subterranean 
passage.  It  consists  of  a  dry-stone  wall,  10  feet  thick 
and  74  feet  high,  enclosing  a  space  30  feet  in  diameter, 
with  an  entrance  from  the  E  ;  and  it  is  said  to  have  been 
used,  in  pre-Reformation  times,  as  a  place  of  penance. 

Devil's  Cauldron,  a  wild  and  very  romantic  chasm, 
on  the  mutual  boundary  of  Comrie  and  ilonzievaird 
parishes,  Perthshire,  11  mile  N  of  Comrie  village.  Led- 
nock  Water  traverses  it  ;  and  '  the  stream,  after  cutting 
its  path  through  a  black  crag,  the  sides  of  which  it  has 
polished  to  the  appearance  of  ebony,  throws  itself  im- 
petuously into  a  basin,  where  it  hisses,  and  foams,  and 
shrieks,  and  writhes,  like  a  demon  newly  plunged  into 
Tartarus. ' 

Devil's  Cowe,  a  cave  in  Kincraig  Hill,  at  the  south- 
western extremity  of  Kilconquhar  parish,  Fife. 

Devil's  Dike.     See  Deil's  Dike. 

Devil's  Mill,  a  waterfall  on  the  mutual  boundary  of 
Perthshire  and  Kinross-shire,  on  the  river  Devon,  about 
350  yards  ENE  of  Ruml:>ling-Bridge,  and  IJ  mile  WSW 
of  Crook  of  Devon.  The  river  here,  after  rushing  along 
a  craggy  ravine,  and  passing  into  a  chasm  of  consider- 
able length  but  scarcely  6  feet  in  Avidth,  falls  over  a 
rock  into  a  deep  cavity,  where  it  is  tossed  round  with 
such  great  violence  as  to  beat  constantly  on  the  rocky 
sides  of  the  chasm,  and  cause  a  clacking  noise  like 
that  of  a  mill  at  work.  The  waterfall  is  not  seen  ;  but, 
in  ordinary  states  of  the  river,  when  neither  too  low 
by  draught,  nor  too  high  by  freshet,  the  noise  is  very 
distinctly  heard.  A  common  reason  given  by  the 
country  people  for  the  name  Devil's  Mill  is,  that  the 
noise  continues  on  all  days  alike,  paying  no  regard  to 
Sunday  ;  but  another  reason  given  is,  that  the  scene  and 
working  of  the  waterfall  are  indicative  of  a  grinding  to 
destruction.  A  cavern,  called  the  Pigeon's  Cave,  is  near 
the  waterfall. 

Devil's  Staircase,  an  abruptly  declivitous  byroad  on 
the  N  border  of  Argyllshire,  deflecting  from  the  high- 
way at  the  head  of  Glencoe,  3  miles  W  of  King's  House. 
It  descends  northward  to  the  head  of  Loch  Leven,  and 
communicates  there  with  an  old  road  north-north- 
westward to  Fort  William. 

Devol's  Glen,  a  ravine,  traversed  by  a  brook,  in  Green- 
ock and  Port  Glasgow  parishes,  Renfrewshire.  Com- 
mencing among  hills  794  and  682  feet  high,  and  descend- 
ing 2J  miles  north-eastward  to  the  E  end  of  Port 
Glasgow  town,  it  is  rocky,  wooded,  and  romantic.  It 
is  flanked,  near  the  head,  by  a  precipice,  called  Wallace's 
Leap,  over  which  Sir  William  Wallace  is  fabled  to  have 
leaped  on  horseback;  and  it  contains  two  beautiful 
though  tiny  waterfalls,  respectively  about  20  feet  and 
about  100  feet  in  leap. 

Devon,  a  river  of  Perth,  Kinross,  Clackmannan,  and 
Stirling  shires,  rising  among  the  Ochils  in  the  N  of 
Alva  parisli,  at  an  altitude  of  ISOO  feet,  and  9  furlongs 
WNW  of  tlie  summit  of  Bencleuch.  Thence  it  winds  14 
miles  north-eastward,  eastward,  and  south-eastward  to 
the  Crook  of  Devox,  and  thence  again  191  west-south- 
westward,  till,  after  a  total  course  of  33f  miles,  it  falls 
into  the  Forth  at  Cambus,  2|  miles  W  by  N  of  Alloa, 
and  only  5:^  miles  in  a  straight  line  SSW  of  its  source. 
During  this  course  it  traverses  or  bounds  the  parishes  of 
Alva,  Blackford,  Tillicoultry,  Glendevon,  Fossoway, 
Muckhart,  Dollar,  Tillicoultry,  Alva,  Logic,  and  Alloa. 
The  last  song  written  liy  Burns,  written  as  he  lay  dying 
at  Brow  (12  Jidy  1796),   was,   'Fairest  maid  on  Devon 


DEVON.  BLACK 

banks,  Crystal  Devon,  -windinf;  Devon ' — the  maid,  that 
Charlotte  "Hamilton  of  Mauchline,  whom  he  had  seen  at 
Harviestoun  nine  years  before,  and  then  had  celebrated 
in  another  most  exquisite  lyric — 

'  How  pleasant  the  banks  of  the  clear  winding  Devon, 

With  green  spreading  bushes,  and  flowers  bloominj  fair  ! 
But  the  bonniest  flower  on  the  banks  of  the  Devon 
Was  once  a  s\veet  bud  from  the  banks  of  the  Ayr.' 

Others  than  Bums  have  sung  of  the  beauties  of  the 
Devon  and  its  valley,  shown  at  their  best  in  a  long 
reach  below  the  Crook  of  Devon,  where  the  stream 
traverses  a  series  of  ravines  and  chasms,  and  makes 
the  famous  falls  described  in  our  articles  Devil's  Mill, 
Rumbling-Bridge,  and  Caldron  Linn.  The  cliffs  that 
riank  its  chasms  and  ravines  are  of  no  great  height, 
nowhere  exceeding  much  100  feet  ;  but  they  acquire 
aspects  of  sublimity  and  savageness  from  the  narrow- 
ness and  gloom  of  the  spaces  which  they  enclose,  and 
aspects  of  picturesqueness  and  witchery  from  copsewood, 
herbage,  and  overshado\ving  woods.  The  river's  aggre- 
gate descent,  from  source  to  mouth.,  is  close  upon  ISOO 
feet,  and  its  basin  is  so  ramified  among  nearly  all  the 
southern  and  south-western  Ochils  as  sometimes  to  send 
down  freshets  to  the  plains,  with  the  suddenness  and 
volume  of  a  waterspout.  The  river  is  not  navigable, 
yet,  according  to  a  survey  made  by  James  Watt  in  1760, 
it  could  be  rendered  navigable  for  several  miles  at  a  cost 
of  about  £2000.  It  is  a  capital  trouting  stream,  every- 
where open  to  the  public  ;  its  trout  average  rather  less 
than  4  lb.  each.  The  Stirling  and  Dunfermline  rail- 
way crosses  it,  near  the  mouth,  on  a  viaduct  partly  sup- 
ported by  piers,  partly  suspended  on  strong  timber 
beams  ;  and  the  Devon  Valley  railway  follows  it  from 
its  lower  waters  upward  to  Crook  of  Devon. — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  39,  40,  1869-67. 

Devon,  Black  or  South,  a  small  river  of  Fife  and 
Clackmannanshu-e,  rising  on  Outh  Muir  (900  feet) 
in  the  N  of  Dunfermline  parish,  7  furlongs  WSW  of 
Duraglow,  the  highest  of  the  Cleish  HUls,  and  thence 
running  15^  miles  westward  and  south-westward  through 
and  along  the  borders  of  Saline  and  Clackmannan 
parishes,  till  it  falls  into  the  Forth,  IJ  mile  SE  of 
Alloa.  It  has  very  small  volume  in  droughty  seasons, 
most  of  its  waters  being  then  collected  in  dams  or 
reservoirs  for  driving  mills  ;  it  takes  the  name  of 
Black  Devon  from  the  gloomy  appearance  of  its  waters ; 
and  it  contains  some  pike  and  little  trout. — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  40,  39,  1867-69. 

Devon,  Crook  of.     See  Crook  of  Devon. 

Devon  Iron-works,  an  extensive  establishment  in  the 
Sauchie  section  of  Clackmannan  parish,  Clackmannan- 
shire, near  the  left  bank  of  the  Devon,  2^  miles  NNE 
of  Alloa.  Including  three  furnaces  and  a  large  foundry, 
it  turns  out  6000  tons  of  pig-iron  in  the  year,  and  con- 
verts a  considerable  portion  thereof  into  cast-iron  goods ; 
and  it  communicates,  by  one  railway  with  Alloa  Har- 
bour, by  another  with  Clackmannan  Pow  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Black  Devon. 

Devonshaw,  a  hill  (1275  feet)  in  Lamington  and 
"Wandel  parish,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Clyde,  opposite  Roberton  village.  Its  SW  shoulder  is 
crowned  with  an  ancient  circular  camp. 

Devonside,  a  village  in  Tillicoultry  parish,  Clackman- 
nanshire, -J  mile  SSE  of  Tillicoultry  town.  It  adjoins 
a  brick  and  tile  work,  and  is  near  a  coal  mine.  Fop., 
with  Langan.  (1881)  555. 

Devon  Valley  Railway,  a  railway  in  Clackmannan, 
Perth,  and  Kinross  shires,  partly  along  the  middle 
reaches  of  the  river  Devon,  and  thence  deriving  its 
distinctive  name.  A  reach  of  3^  miles  north-east- 
ward, from  a  junction  with  tlie  Stirling  and  Dunfermline 
railway  at  Alloa  to  Tillicoultry,  is  practically  a  portion 
of  the  line,  but  was  opened  in  1851,  prior  to  any  part 
of  the  line  proper,  as  a  branch  of  the  Stirling  and  Dun- 
fermline railway.  The  Devon  Valley  line  proper,  extend- 
ing from  a  junction  with  that  branch  at  Tillicoultry 
east-north-eastward  to  a  junction  with  the  Fife  and  Kin- 
ross railway,  in  the  vicinity  of  Kinross,  was  originally 
projected  in  1857,  and  authorised  in  1858,  on  a  capital  of 
854 


DHUHEABTACH 

£90,000  in  shares  and  £30,000  in  loans.  It  was  formed, 
under  the  original  authority,  only  from  Rumbling- 
Bridge  to  Kinross  Junction  ;  the  rest  being  formed,  in 
two  successive  reaches,  under  connection  from  1866  with 
the  North  British  system.  The  reach  from  Rumbling- 
Bridge  to  Kinross  is  6i  miles  long,  was  opened  on  1  May 
1863,  traverses  a  level  district,  and  has  no  works  of 
more  than  ordinary  consequence  except  a  rock  cutting 
at  Rumbling-Bridge.  The  reach  from  Tillicoultry  to 
Dollar  is  2^-  miles  long ;  was  begun  to  be  formed  in 
1867,  and  completed  in  May  1869  ;  and  also  has  no 
works  of  more  than  ordinary  consequence.  The  reach 
from  Dollar  to  Rumbling-Bridge  is  4^  miles  long  ;  was 
begun  to  be  formed  in  1869,  and  opened  on  1  May 
1871  ;  has  several  works  of  very  heavy  character ;  and 
rises  to  a  summit-level  of  320  feet  above  the  elevation 
of  its  starting-point  at  Dollar.  An  embankment  on 
it  contiguous  to  Dollar  is  40  feet  high  and  more  than 
900  yards  long.  A  viaduct  over  the  Devon  is  52  feet 
high  and  390 "feet  long;  has  six  arches,  each  of  from 
49  to  55  feet  in  span ;  and  curves  on  a  radius  of  30 
chains.  A  cutting  at  Arndean  is  80  feet  deep  at  the 
deepest  part,  and  involved  the  removal  of  about  180,000 
cubic  yards  of  sand.  A  viaduct  in  Gairnej^  Glen  is  110 
feet  high  and  360  feet  long  ;  has  six  arches  each  45  feet 
in  span ;  and  occupies  a  most  picturesque  position.  Ten 
other  small  viaducts  and  seven  overarching  bridges 
occur  between  Dollar  and  Rumbling-Bridge.  Since  1 
Jan.  1875  the  Devon  Valley  has  been  amalgamated  ^vith 
the  North  British. 

Dewar,  a  hamlet  in  Heriot  parish,  Edinburghshire,  6J 
miles  S  of  Middleton.  Dewar  farm,  adjacent  to  the 
hamlet,  contains  a  spot  called  the  Piper's  Grave,  tradi- 
tionally associated  with  a  foolish  and  fatal  exploit  of  a 
Peebles  piper  ;  and  Dewar  Hill,  not  far  therefrom,  is 
crowned  with  a  remarkable  large  stone,  called  Lot's  Wife. 

Dewarton,  a  village  on  Vogrie  estate,  in  Borthwick 
parish,  Edinburghshire,  li  mile  W  of  Ford. 

Dews,  a  small  marsh}'  lake  in  Fetteresso  parish,  Kin- 
cardineshire. It  once  was  of  considerable  extent,  but 
has  become  exceedingly  reduced,  and  it  is  so  occupied 
with  aquatic  plants  as  to  be  sometimes  called  Lily  Loch. 

Dheirrig  or  Eilean  Dearg  (Gael.  '  red  island '),  an 
islet  of  Inverchaolain  parish,  Argyllshire,  the  furthest 
of  a  small  group  in  the  mouth  of  Loch  Riddon,  at  the 
elbow  of  the  Kyles  of  Bute,  2\  miles  NW  of  Coliutraive. 
It  is  crowned  by  ruins  of  a  fort,  erected  by  Archibald, 
ninth  Earl  of  Argyll,  in  1685,  during  his  disastrous 
expedition  from  the  Netherlands. 

DMvach.     See  Divach. 

Dhruim,  a  river-gorge  in  Kilmorack  parish,  Inverness- 
shire,  extending  about  2  or  3  miles  south-westward  from 
Kilmorack  church,  and  traversed  by  the  river  Beauly. 
It  is  flanked  by  steep  mountain  acclivities,  clothed  with 
birch  and  pine  ;  is  fringed,  along  the  river's  brinks,  by 
rows  of  oaks,  alders,  and  weeping  birches ;  is  swept, 
along  the  bottom,  by  a  series  of  cascades  over  shelving 
masses  of  red  sandstone  ;  and  has,  altogether,  a  roman- 
tically picturesque  character. 

Dhu.     See  Bexdhu. 

Dhu  or  Dubh  Loch  (Gael.  '  black  lake  '),  a  wild  moun- 
tain lake  in  the  SW  of  Glenmuick  parish,  Aberdeenshire, 
If  mile  AV  of  the  head  of  Loch  Muick,  to  which  it  sends 
otf  the  Allt  an  Dubh-loch.  Lpng  2091  feet  above  sea- 
level,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  5J  and  1 J 
furlongs,  and  is  overhung  to  the  S  by  Cairn  Bannoch 
(3314  feet)  and  Broad  Cairn  (3268),  which  culminate 
just  on  the  Forfarshire  border.  Here,  on  16  Sept.  1852, 
the  Queen  received  confirmation  of  the  death  of  the 
Duke  of  Wellington.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  65,  1870. 

Dhuheartach,  a  rocky  basaltic  islet  of  Argyllshire, 
15i  miles  SW  of  lona.  Lying  fully  exposed  to  the 
Atlantic,  it  is  240  feet  long,  130  broad,  and  35  high, 
and  was  surmounted  in  1867-72  by  a  lighthouse  rising 
143  feet  above  high-water  level.  The  lighthouse  is  a 
parabolic  frustum,  and  was  built  of  granite  (quarried  and 
dressed  at  Carraid,  on  the  shore  of  the  Sound  of  lona,  and 
landed  with  great  difficulty  on  the  rock.  Only  27  days 
in  1867,  38  days  in  1868,  59  days  in  1869,  and  62  days 


DHUISK 

in  1870  were  sufficiently  calm  to  permit  the  landing  of 
the  materials.  The  light,  which  is  visible  for  ISi 
nautical  miles,  is  fixed  white,  except  between  S  by  W 
i  W,  and  ^Y  ^  N,  where  it  is  fixed  red.  See  the  Builder 
for  Feb.  2,  1S72,  and  May  6,  1876. 

Dhuisk  or  Dusk,  a  rivulet  of  Colmonell  parish,  in  the 
S  of  Carrick,  Ayrshire.  Formed  by  the  Feoch  and 
Pollgowau  Burns,  at  a  point  1 J  mile  ESE  of  Barrhill 
village,  it  thence  runs  6  miles  north-westward,  closely 
followed  by  the  Girvan  and  Portpatrick  railway,  till 
near  Pin  wherry  station  it  falls  into  the  Stinchar. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  8,  7,  1863. 

Dibaig,  a  hamlet,  with  a  public  school,  near  the 
mutual  boundary  of  Applecross  and  Gairloch  parishes, 
Ross-shire. 

Dichmont,  a  hill-summit  in  St  Vigeans  parish,  Forfar- 
shire, 1  mile  NE  of  St  Vigeans  village.  It  rises  to  an 
altitude  of  323  feet  above  sea-level,  and  is  cro\\nied  with 
a  large  hollow  cairn  or  mound,  anciently  used  as  a  seat 
of  justice,  and  now  clothed  with  greensward. 

Dichty  or  Dighty  Water,  a  stream  of  S  Forfarshire. 
Rising  in  four  head-streams,  among  the  Sidlaw  Hills,  in 
the  W  of  Lundie  parish,  it  runs  15  miles  east-south- 
eastward through  Auchterhouse,  Mains  and  Strathmar- 
tine,  Dundee,  and  Monifieth  parishes ;  receives,  within 
Dundee  parish,  the  tribute  of  Fithie  ^Yater ;  and  falls 
into  the  Firth  of  Tay  1|  mile  ENE  of  Brouglity  Ferry. 
It  drives  several  mills  in  the  middle  and  lower  parts  of 
its  course,  and  is  well  stocked  with  trout.  — Orel.  Sur. , 
shs.  48,  49,  1868-65. 

Digmore,  a  small  harbour  in  Xorth  Uist  island.  Outer 
Hebrides,  Inverness-shire,  on  Balranald  farm,  towards 
the  middle  of  the  island. 

Dildawn.     See  Daldawx. 

Dillarbum,  a  village  in  Lesmahagow  parish,  Lanark- 
shire, 1^  mile  NXE  of  Abbeygi-een. 

Dilty,  a  morass  in  Carmylie  and  Guthrie  parishes, 
Forfarshire,  1^  mile  ESE  of  Kirkbuddo  station.  Measur- 
ing about  \  mile  either  way,  it  sends  off  two  streamlets 
in  opposite  directions — the  head-stream  of  the  Elliot 
running  eastward  directly  to  the  sea,  and  a  tributary 
streamlet  running  westward  to  the  river  Dean. 

Dinart.     See  Durxess. 

Dingwall  (Scand.  'hill  of  justice'),  a  town  and  a 
parish  of  SE  Ross-shire.  A  royal  and  parliamentary 
burgh,  the  town  stands  on  the  north-western  shore,  and 
a  little  below  the  head,  of  Cromarty  Firth,  which  here 
is  joined  by  the  PefFer  ;  by  road  it  is  13J  miles  NW  of 
Inverness  via  Kessoek  Ferry,  and  by  rail,  as  junction  of 
the  Dingwall  and  Skye  railway  (1870)  with  the  main 
Highland  line  (1862),  53  EXE  of  Strome  Ferry,  82| 
SW  V.y  S  of  Helmsdale,  18^  NW  of  Inverness,  210^ 
NNW  of  Edinburgh,  and  226J  N  by  W  of  Glasgow. 
The  beautifully-wooded  plain  on  which  it  stands  was 
once  a  swampy  marsh,  but  since  1817  thorough  drainage 
and  spirited  agriculture  have  made  it  one  of  the  loveliest 
valleys  in  the  N  of  Scotland.  The  burgh,  lying  snugly 
among  rich  clumps  of  trees,  at  the  entrance  of  Strath 
PefFer,  chiefly  consists  of  one  main  street,  a  mile  in 
length  ;  and,  while  the  majority  of  its  houses  are  irre- 
gularly disposed  and  unpretentious  architecturally,  still 
there  are  several  very  handsome  residences,  most  of 
which  have  sprung  up  within  the  past  thirty  years. 
Yet  Dingwall  is  a  place  of  hoar  antiquity,  the  county 
town,  having  arisen  under  the  shelter  of  the  neighbour- 
ing castle  of  the  Earls  of  Ross,  which,  built  close  beside 
the  Firth,  was  almost  surrounded  by  water,  but  now  has 
left  hardly  a  vestige,  its  site  being  partly  occupied  by  a 
modern  mansion.  The  To\\'n -house  is  a  curious  old- 
fashioned  edifice,  with  a  spire  ;  the  County  Buildings,  a 
handsome  castellated  pile  a  little  way  E  of  the  town, 
were  erected  in  1845  at  a  cost  of  £5000,  and  contain  a 
court-house,  county  rooms,  and  a  prison  with  eighteen 
cells.  A  public  hall  was  built  in  1871  ;  and  a  cottage 
hospital,  H-shaped  in  plan,  in  1872-73,  as  a  memorial 
to  the  late  Dr  "William  Ross.  Near  the  church  is  a 
plain  and  simple  obelisk,  6  feet  S(j[uare  at  the  base,  and 
57  feet  high,  but  thrown  slightly  oft'  the  perpendicular 
by  an  earthq^uake  of  1816  j    in  1875  it   ijroved  upon 


DINGWALL 

exploration  to  mark  the  resting-place  of  its  founder, 
George  Mackenzie,  the  celebrated  first  Earl  of  Cromartie 
(1630-1714).  The  parish  church  itself,  with  a  steeple 
and  800  sittings,  was  built  in  1801  ;  the  present  hand- 
some Free  church  in  1869  ;  and  the  Episcopal  church  of 
St  James,  an  Early  Decorated  structure  with  120  sittings, 
in  1872,  its  predecessor  having  been  destroyed  by  fire 
the  year  before.  In  1874  a  public  park,  adjoining  the 
Beauly  road,  was  gifted  to  the  burgh  by  the  late  Sir 
James  Matheson,  Bart,  of  the  Lews,  who  had  at  one 
time  been  provost ;  and  Dingwall  besides  has  a  post 
office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  insurance,  and 
railway  telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the  Bank  of 
Scotland  and  the  Caledonian  and  National  banks,  21 
insurance  agencies,  3  hotels,  gas-works,  a  masonic  lodge, 
a  literary  association,  militia  barracks,  a  poorhouse,  and 
a  Friday  paper,  the  Ross-shire  Journal  (1875).  A  corn 
market  is  held  on  every  Wednesday  from  26  September 
to  30  Jilay,  and  the  following  are  the  fairs  throughout 
the  year : — New  Year  Market,  third  Wednesday  of 
January  ;  Candlemas  (cattle  and  produce),  do.  of  Febru- 
ary ;  Janet's,  first  Wednesday  of  June  ;  Colin's  (cattle, 
etc. ),  first  Tuesday  of  July  ;  Fell  Maree,  first  Wednesday 
of  September  ;  Martha's,  do.  of  November  ;  and  Peffer, 
Tuesday  before  Christmas.  After  the  forfeiture  of  the 
Earls  of  Ross  in  1476  Dingwall  seems  to  have  gone  down 
in  the  world  ;  and  its  petition  of  1724  to  the  Convention 
of  Burghs  sets  forth  that  '  the  town  is  almost  turned 
desolate,  as  is  weel  known  to  all  our  neighbours,  and 
there  is  hardly  anything  to  be  seen  but  the  ruins  of  old 
houses,  and  the  few  inhabitants  that  are  left,  having  now 
no  manner  of  trade,  live  only  by  labouring  the  neigh- 
bouring lands,  and  our  inhabitants  are  still  daily  de- 
serting us.'  Accordingly,  in  1733,  Inverness  sent  a 
deputation,  which  brought  back  word  that  Dingwall 
had  no  trade,  though  one  or  two  were  inclined  to  carry 
on  trade  if  they  had  a  harbour,  also  that  it  had  no 
prison,  and  that  for  want  of  a  bridge  across  an  adjacent 
lake  the  people  were  kept  from  both  kirk  and  market. 
Now,  though  its  trade  is  still  not  very  great,  and 
though  manufactures  are  conspicuous  by  their  absence, 
Dingwall  at  least  has  a  harbour.  A  mile  below  the 
bridge  coasters  had  once  to  load  and  unload  on  the  mud 
at  low-water,  their  cargoes  being  carried  along  a  bad  road 
to  and  from  the  E  end  of  the  town.  This  inconvenience 
was  remedied  by  shaping  the  lower  reach  of  the  Pefi^er  into 
a  regular  canal,  2000  yards  long,  with  two  wharfs  at 
which  vessels  of  9  feet  draught  can  lie — such  improve- 
ments being  carried  out  in  1815-17  at  a  cost  of  £4365,  of 
which  £1786  was  furnished  by  the  Highland  road  commis- 
sioners and  £600  by  the  Convention  of  Burghs.    Erected 


Seal  of  Dingwall. 

into  a  royal  burgh  by  Alexander  II.  in  1226,  and  having 
adopted  the  General  Police  and  Improvement  Act  of 
1862,  Dingwall  is  governed  by  a  provost,  a  senior  and  a 
junior  bailie,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and  10  coun- 
cillors, who  also  act  as  police  commissioners.  With 
Wick  and  four  other  burghs,  it  returns  a  member  to 

355 


DINGWALL  AND  SKYE  RAILWAY 

parliament,  its  municipal  and  parliamentary  con^9ti- 
tuency  numbering  229  in  1882,  when  the  annual  value 
of  real  property,  exclusive  of  railway,  was  £7533,  whilst 
the  cori)oratiou  revenue  for  ISSl  was  £152,  and  the  har- 
bour revenue  £210.  Pop.  (1841)  1739,  (1S51)  1966, 
(1861)  2099,  (1871)  2125,  (1S81)  1918.  Inhabited  houses 
(ISSl)  351. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  Kiltearn,  SE  by 
the  head  of  Cromarty  Firth  and  by  the  river  Conan, 
separating  it  from  the  Nairnshire  district  of  Ferintosh, 
S  by  the  Tollie  section  of  Fodderty  and  by  Urray,  and 
SW  by  the  main  body  of  Fodderty.  It  has  an  utmost 
length  of  61  miles  from  NNW  to  SSE,  and  its  width 
varies  between  9  J  furlongs  and  4|  mUes,  whilst  tapering 
north-westward  to  a  point.  The  Peffer  winds  2J  miles 
east-south-eastward  along  the  Fodderty  border  and 
through  the  interior  to  the  Firth  ;  the  Skiach  runs  1| 
mile  north-eastward  across  the  northern  interior ;  and 
Loch  Ussie  (6i  x  43  furl.)  lies  at  an  altitude  of  419  feet, 
partly  within  a  western  projecting  wing.  Except  for 
the  low  level  stiip,  3  furlongs  wide,  between  the  Firth 
and  the  Inverness  highroad,  and  for  a  portion  of  Strath 
Peffer,  the  surface  is  everywhere  hilly,  even  mountainous, 
from  S  to  N  attaining  259  feet  near  Blackwells,  *  628 
near  Croftandrum,  *SS2at  Cnoc  Mor,  *450  at  Knock- 
bain,  1109  at  Cnoc  a'  Bhreac,  and  *  2000  at  Meall  na 
Speireig,  those  heights  that  culminate  on  the  parish's 
borders  being  marked  with  asterisks,  and  one  and  all 
being  dominated  by  Ben  Wytis  (3429  feet).  The  rocks 
are  gneiss  and  mica  slate  in  the  northern  uplands,  and 
in  the  S  conglomerate  and  Old  Ked  sandstone.  Around 
the  town  there  is  a  deep  deposit  of  loam  with  a  large 
admixture  of  clay,  very  suitable  for  the  growth  of  wheat, 
but  demanding  great  care  in  the  cultivation  ;  the  soil 
on  the  lower  slopes  of  the  rising-grounds  is  also  clayey  ; 
and  the  higher  cultivated  laud  is  mountain  clay  or 
moorish  soil,  the  former  becoming  very  fertile  Avith  long- 
continued  good  treatment,  the  latter  very  difficult  to 
improve  (Mr  James  Macdonald  in  Trans.  Higlil.  and  Ag. 
Soc,  1877).  In  the  N  are  remains  of  an  ancient  Cale- 
donian stone  circle.  Tulloch  Castle  is  the  chief  man- 
sion ;  and  2  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of 
£500  and  upwards,  12  of  between  £100  and  £500,  21  of 
from  £50  to  £100,  and  26  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Ding- 
wall is  the  seat  of  a  presbytery  in  the  synod  of  Ross  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £436.  A  public  school,  with  accom- 
modation for  360  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  222,  and  a  gi-ant  of  £177,  3s.  Valuation  (1881) 
£4992,  18s.  2d.,  of  which  £2654  was  held  by  Duncan 
Davidson,  Esq.  of  Tulloch.  Pop.  (1801)  1418,  (1831) 
2124,  (1861)  2412,  (1871)  2443,  (1881)  2211.— Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  83,  93,  1881. 

The  presbyterj-  of  Ding^\-all  comprises  the  old  parishes 
of  Alness,  Contin,  Dingwall,  Fodderty,  Kilmorack,  Kil- 
tearn, Urquhart,  and  Urray  and  Kilchrist,  and  the  quoad 
sacra  parishes  of  Carnoch  and  Kinlochluichart.  Pop. 
(1871)  16,562,  (1881)  15,517,  of  whom  330  were  com- 
municants of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1S78. — The  Free 
Church  also  has  a  presbj-tery  of  Dingwall,  with  churches 
at  Alness,  Dingwall,  Fodderty,  Garve,  Kilmorack, 
Kiltearn,  Maryburgh,  Stiathconon,  Unjuhart,  and  Urray, 
which  together  had  4351  members  and  adherents  in 
1881. 

Dingwall  and  Skye  Railway,  The,  designed  to  open 
up  to  railway  facilities  the  western  coasts  of  Eoss  and 
Inverness,  and  by  means  of  steamers  to  afford  access  to 
the  principal  islands  of  the  Outer  and  Inner  Hebrides, 
was  originally  projected  to  reach  Kyle  Akin  (the  Strait 
of  Haco),  where  the  island  of  Skye  is  separated  from  the 
mainland  by  a  narrow  channel.  A  bill  for  a  line  to  this 
point  was  obtained  in  1864,  but  the  difficulty  of  raising 
the  capital  caused  the  adoption  of  a  modified  schema, 
carrj-ing  the  line  to  its  present  western  terminus  on  Loch 
Carron.  The  railway,  branching  from  the  Highland  line 
at  Dingwall,  rises  a  short  distance  therefrom  upon  a  steep 
incline,  on  which  is  situated  the  first  station,  Strathpefl'er 
(4^  miles).  This  station  occupies  a  remarkably  elevated 
position,  the  famous  spa  that  gives  it  name  beiiK;  situated 
IJ  mile  away  iu  the  deep  valley  below.  The  view  from 
356 


DIPPIN 

this  portion  of  the  line  is  magnificent ;  prominent  amongst 
the  objects  of  interest  being  Castle-Leod,  belonging  to 
the  Duchess  of  Sutherland  (Countess  of  Cromartie  in  her 
own  right),  which  is  seen  in  the  midst  of  fine  trees. 
After  leaving  Strathpeffer,  the  line  passes  through  a 
cutting  close  vmder  Craig -an- fhitaich,  the  '  Raven's 
Rock,'  whose  precipitous  face,  250  feet  high,  beetles 
ominously  over  the  railway.  Half-a-mile  further  the  line 
enters  Ross-shire,  and  passes  Loch  Garve,  the  first  of  a 
series  of  fine  lochs  wliich  skirt  the  route.  The  shores 
are  nicely  wooded.  The  station  of  Garve  (II5  mUes) 
forms  the  starting-point  for  Lochbroom  and  Ullapool 
by  a  wild  coach  road  over  the  Biridh  More.  The  line 
afterwards  passes  Loch  Luichart,  where  there  is  a  station 
(17  miles),  and  the  Grudie,  Loch  C'uUiu,  and  Strathbran 
aflbrd  varying  aspects  of  Highland  scenerj'.  Achanault 
station  (21;|  miles)  is  a  favourite  starting-point  for  the 
ascent  of  a  number  of  the  giant  mountains  of  Ross-shire. 
Auchnasheen  station  (27$  miles)  is  the  starting-point 
for  the  coach  to  Gairloch,  the  road  passing  along  the 
whole  length  of  Loch  Maree,  and  forming  one  of  the 
finest  drives  in  Scotland.  Beyond  Auchnasheen  the 
line,  after  crossing  the  Bran  on  a  fine  lattice  bridge, 
reaches  its  summit-level,  and  immediately  begins  to 
descend  to  the  western  coast.  There  is  here  some  re- 
markably Mild  and  bleak  scenery  ;  and  at  Auchnashel- 
lach,  the  shooting-lodge  of  Lord  Wimbome,  suiTOunded 
by  fine  grounds,  appears  like  an  oasis  iu  the  desert. 
The  line  then  skirts  Loch  Dougall,  4  miles  in  length, 
with  vast  precipitous  hills  rising  from  it.  Strathcarron 
station  (45|  miles)  at  the  head  of  Loch  Carron  is  next 
reached,  forming  the  station  for  Janetown  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  loch,  and  for  the  wild  region  of  Loch 
Torridon.  From  Attadale,  the  line  skirts  the  upper 
waters  of  Loch  Carron,  and  reaches  its  terminus  at  Strome 
Ferry  (53  miles).  The  line  was  cheaply  constructed, 
the  principal  works  being  the  cutting  above  Strathpefl'er 
and  a  few  large  bridges.  The  total  capital  expenditure 
amounted  to  £330,000.  In  1881  the  line  was  amalga- 
mated with  the  Highland  railwaj-.  In  the  winter  of 
the  same  year  high  tides  damaged  tlie  line,  which  sub- 
sequently was  blocked  by  a  heavy  fall  of  rock,  these  inter- 
ruptions occurring  between  Attadale  and  Strome  Ferry  ; 
and  the  traffic  was  on  both  occasions  interrupted  for  a 
number  of  daj-s. 

Dingy's  How,  an  ancient  tumulus  36  feet  high  on  the 
isthmus  at  the  southern  extremity  of  St  Andrews  pai-ish, 
Ovknej. 

Dinlabyre,  an  ancient  chapelry  in  Castleton  parish, 
Roxburghshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Liddel  Water,  1  mile 
SSE  of  Steele  Road  station.  An  old-fashioned  mansion, 
now  a  farm-house,  occupies  the  site  of  its  chapel. 

Diimiurchie.     See  Bakr. 

Dinnet,  a  station,  a  burn,  and  a  moor  of  S  Aberdeen- 
shire. The  station  is  on  the  Deeside  section  of  the 
Great  North  of  Scotland  railway,  4^  miles  W  of  AbojTie. 
The  burn,  issuing  from  Loch  Daven,  and  receiving  also 
the  effluence  of  Loch  Kinord,  runs  2^  miles  south-east- 
ward along  the  boundary  between  Aboyne  and  Glen- 
muick  parishes,  falls  into  the  Dee  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  station,  and  may  be  regarded  as  the  line  of  demar- 
cation between  the  Lowlands  and  Highlands  of  Dee- 
side.  The  moor  flanks  the  W  bank  of  the  burn,  is  a 
bleak  dismal  tract,  and  contains  several  cairns  and 
several  vestiges  of  ancient  warfare.  Near  the  station  is 
a  Gothic  church,  built  in  1875  at  a  cost  of  £700  as 
a  chapel  of  ease  to  Aboyne,  and  raised  to  quoad  sacra 
status  in  1881. 

Dinwoodie,  a  station  in  Applegarth  parish,  Annan- 
dale,  Dumfriesshire,  on  the  Caledonian  railway,  6  miles 
NNW  of  Lockerbie.  Dinwoodie  Hill  (871  feet),  IJ 
mile  to  the  ENE,  is  crowned  with  two  hill-forts  ;  and 
on  its  SE  slope  is  the  graveyard  of  a  chapel,  said  to  have 
belonged  to  the  Knights  Templars. 

Dionard.     See  Durxess. 

Dippen,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  SaddtU  parish, 
E  Kintyre,  Argyllshire,  close  to  Carradale  village. 

Dippin,  a  grandly  mural  headland  on  the  SE  coast  of 
Arran  island,  Buteshire,  1^  mile  NE  of  Kildonan  Castlo, 


DIPPLE 


DIVIE 


and  4  miles  S  by  "W  of  tlie  southern  entrance  of  Lamlasli 
Bay.  A  range  of  precipice  300  feet  high,  it  rises 
sheer  from  the  water's  edge  ;  is  leapt  by  a  brook,  in  a 
curve  of  spray,  to  the  sea ;  and  forms  a  very  conspicuous 
landmark  to  mariners. 

Dipple,  an  ancient  parish  of  NE  Elginshire,  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  river  Spey,  opposite  Fochabers.  It  was 
united  with  Essil  in  1731  to  form  Speyraouth '  parish. 
Its  church  was  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Ghost  ;  and  at  its 
lychgate  stood  a  small  building  known  as  '  The  House 
of  the  Holy  Ghost.'  Around  this  building  funeral 
parties  would  always  bear  the  corpse,  following  the  course 
of  the  sun  ;  nor  could  they  be  driven  from  that  practice 
till  the  house  was  demolished. 

Dippool  Water,  a  rivulet  of  Carnwath  parish,  E 
Lanarkshire,  rising  near  the  Edinburghshire  border  at 
an  altitude  of  1050  feet  above  sea-level,  and  running  7^ 
miles  south-south-westward,  till  it  falls  into  Mouse 
"Water,  2  miles  NNW  of  Carstairs  Junction.  Its  waters 
contain  good  store  of  line  large  trout. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
23,  1S65. 

Dirie  or  Dirrie  More,  a  desolate  mountain  pass  in 
Lochbroom  parish,  central  Koss-shire,  on  the  road  from 
Dingwall  to  Ullapool.  On  the  watershed  between  the 
Atlantic  and  German  Oceans,  it  attains  its  maximum 
altitude  (909  feet)  near  the  head  of  Loch  Droma,  161 
miles  NW  of  Garve  station,  and  3J  miles  SSE  of  the 
summit  of  Ben  Dearg  (3547  feet). — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  92, 
1S81. 

Dirleton,  a  village  and  a  coast  parish  of  N  Hadding- 
tonshire. The  village  stands,  towards  the  middle  of  the 
parish,  2|  miles  WSW  of  North  Berwick,  and  1^  mile 
NW  of  Dirleton  station,  this  being  2|  miles  NNE  of 
Drem,  imder  which  Diideton  has  a  post  office.  One  of  the 
prettiest  villages  in  Scotland,  it  chiefly  consists  of  neat 
modern  cottages,  each  with  its  plot  of  flowers  and  shrubs, 
arranged  along  two  sides  of  a  large  triangular  green,  on 
whose  third  or  south-eastern  side  the  ivy-clad  ruins  of 
Dirleton  Castle  stand  amidst  gardens  of  singular  beauty, 
their  bowling-green  adorned  with  grand  old  evergi-een 
oaks.  This  seems  to  be  the  identical  stronghold  that  in 
1298  offered  a  stubborn  though  fruitless  resistance  to 
Anthony  Beck,  the  fighting  Bishop  of  Durham ;  its 
ruinous  state  is  due  in  great  measure  to  the  ordnance  of 
Monk  and  Lambert,  who,  in  1650,  captured  it  from  a 
garrison  of  mosstroopers,  hanging  their  captain  and 
two  of  his  followers.  The  parish  church,  at  the  N  end 
of  the  village,  bears  date  1661,  and,  altered  and  enlarged 
in  1825,  contains  600  sittings.  There  are  also  a  Free 
church,  an  inn,  a  librarv,  and  a  public  school.  Pop. 
(1861)  354,  (1871)  323,  (1881)  403. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  of  Gullane, 
Kingston,  and  Fenton,  is  bounded  NW  and  N  by  the 
Firth  of  Forth  (here  8J  miles  broad  at  the  narrowest),  E 
by  North  Berwick,  and  S  by  Athelstaneford  and  Aber- 
lady.  Its  length,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  2|  and  5^ 
rniles ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  3§  miles  ;  and 
its  area  is  10,798|  acres,  of  which  1620|  are  foreshore 
and  2  water.  The  coast-line,  9  miles  long,  rises  almost 
boldly  to  100  feet  above  sea-level  at  Eklbottle  Wood, 
but  elsewhere  is  mostly  fringed  by  the  flat  sandy  East, 
West,  and  GuUane  Links ;  to  the  W  it  is  indented  by 
Gullane  and  Aberlady  Bays  ;  and  off  it  to  the  N  lie  the 
three  islets,  composed  of  greenstone  rock,  of  Eyebroughy, 
Fidra,  and  Lamb.  The  sluggish  Peffer  Burn,  tracing 
the  southern  boundary,  is  the  only  noteworthy  rivulet ; 
and  inland  the  surface  is  very  slightly  undulated,  its 
highest  point  (118  feet)  occurring  on  the  road  to  Drem, 
5  mile  SS  W  of  the  village.  The  rocks  are  partly  eruptive, 
partly  carboniferous,  and  including  dark-red  jasper  veins, 
excellent  building  sandstone,  some  coal,  and  considerable 
quantities  of  ironstone.  The  soil  is  extremely  various — 
in  one  part  a  deep,  stiff,  alluvial  clay,  and  near  the 
coast  stretches  of  the  lightest  sand,  burrowed  by  hun- 
dreds of  rabbits  ;  whilst  there  is  also  much  deepj  free 
loam,  the  product  of  which  in  summer  and  autumn 
presents  an  appearance  of  almost  unrivalled  luxuriance. 
Fenton  Barns,  If  mile  N  by  E  of  Drem,  is  famous  in 
agricultural  annals  as  the  home,  till  1873,  of  George 


Hope,  Esq.  (1811-76),  an  interesting  Life  of  whom,  by 
his  daughter,  was  published  in  1881.  Sir  John  Haly- 
burton,  slain  at  the  battle  of  Nisbet  in  1355,  had  wedded 
the  daughter  and  co-heiress  of  William  De  Vaux,  lord  of 
Dirleton,  and  got  with  her  that  estate  :  his  grandson, 
Sir  Walter,  Lord  Treasurer  of  Scotland,  founded  a  col- 
legiate church  at  Dirleton  in  1446,  and  six  years  earlier 
was  created  Lord  Halyburton  of  Dirleton — a  title  for- 
feited in  1600  by  John,  third  Earl  of  Gowrie  and  .sixth 
Lord  Ruthven  and  Dirleton,  who  won  over  Logan  of 
Restalrig  to  his  plot  by  the  proffered  bribe  of  the  lands 
and  castle  of  Dirleton.  '  I  care  not,'  wrote  Logan,  '  for 
all  else  I  have  in  this  kingdom,  in  case  I  get  grip  of 
Dirleton,  for  I  esteem  it  the  pleasantest  dwelling  in  Scot- 
land.' (See  Perth  and  Fast  Castle. )  To-day  the  Earl 
of  Mar  and  Kellie  bears  the  title  of  Baron  Dirleton  and 
Viscount  Fentoun,  conferred  in  1603  and  1606  on  Sir 
Thomas  Erskine,  afterward  Earl  of  Kellie,  who  with  his 
own  hand  had  slain  the  Earl  of  Gowrie  ;  that  of  Earl  of 
Dirleton  was  held,  from  1646  till  his  death  before  1653, 
by  Sir  James  Maxwell,  who  seems,  in  1631,  to  have 
bought  the  estate.  In  1663  it  was  once  more  sold  to 
Sir  John  Nisbet,  who  as  Lord  Advocate  bore  the  title 
Lord  Dirleton,  and  whose  descendant,  Lady  ilary  Nisbet- 
Hamilton,  of  Aecherfield  and  Biel,  owns  two-thirds 
of  the  parish.  Five  other  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  4  of  between  £100 
and  £500,  4  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  11  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Dirleton  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Haddington  and 
synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ;  the  living  is  worth 
£509.  Three  public  schools — Dirleton,  Gullane,  and 
Kingston — with  respective  accommodation  for  145,  81, 
and  123  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of 
100,  34,  and  56,  and  grants  of  £74,  £16,  14s.,  and 
£32,  3s.  Valuation  (1882)  £16,499,  8s.  Pop.  (1801) 
1115,  (1831) 1384,  (1861)  1540, (1871) 1419, (1881) 1506. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  33,  41,  1863-57.  See  vol.  ii.  of 
Billings'  Baronial  and  Ecclesiastical  Antiquities  (1852). 

Dirlot  Castle,  an  ancient  fortalice  in  Halkirk  parish, 
Caithness,  on  a  rugged  crag  above  the  river  Thurso,  15 
miles  S  of  Thurso  town.  It  is  said  to  have  been  the 
stronghold  of  a  daring  freebooter,  a  kinsman  of  the 
Dunrobin  Sutherlands,  and  to  have  been  accessible  only 
by  a  drawbridge,  but  is  now  represented  by  slight 
remains. 

Dirrie.     See  Dieie. 

Dirrington,  Great  and  Little,  two  of  the  Lammermuir 
Hills  in  Longformacus  parish,  Berwickshire.  Great 
Dirrington  culminates  1^  mile  SSE  of  Longformacus 
hamlet,  and  has  an  altitude  of  1309  feet  above  sea-level ; 
and  Little  Dirrington  culminates  nearly  \\  mile  further 
SSW  on  the  boundary  with  Greenlaw  parish,  and  has 
an  altitude  of  1191  feet. 

Dim,  Loch.     See  Deerie. 

Disblair,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Fintray  parish 
Aberdeenshire,  2J  miles  WSW  of  New  Machar  station. 

Distinkhorn,  a  hill  in  Galston  parish,  Ayrshire,  5 
furlongs  from  the  Lanarkshire  border,  and  of  miles  ESE 
of  Galston  village.  It  has  an  altitude  of  1259  feet 
above  sea-level,  and  commands  a  magnificent  view. 

Ditch  Hall,  an  ancient  structure  of  earth  and  turf  on 
Inverchadain  farm,  in  Fortingal  parish,  Perthshire.  It 
is  described  by  Blind  Harry ;  is  said  to  have  been  Sir 
William  Wallace's  resting-])lace  for  a  few  days,  and  the 
place  where  he  was  joined  by  the  men  of  Kanuoch,  on 
the  eve  of  his  march  against  the  English  at  Dunkeld 
and  Perth  ;  and  is  still  represented  by  some  remains. 

Divach,  a  shooting-lodge  in  Urquhart  and  Glen- 
moriston  parish,  Inverness-shire,  2J  miles  SW  of  Drum- 
nadrochit  hotel.  Romantically  situated  between  the 
Coiltie  and  its  affluent,  the  Allt  Coire  na  Ruighe,  Mith 
the  lofty  Divach  Falls,  it  was  a  favourite  residence  of 
John  Phillip,  R.A.  (1817-67),  and  figures  in  Shirley 
Brooks'  Sooner  or  Later. 

Divie,  a  rivulet  of  Cromdale  and  Edinkillie  parishes, 
Elginshire,  rising,  at  an  altitude  of  1400  feet,  on  the  E 
slope  of  Carn  Bad  na  Caoracli  (1557  feet),  3  miles  SE 
of  Dava  station,  and  thence  running  V2\  miles  north- 
north-westward,  till,  after  receiving  Dorbock  Burn,  it 

367 


DOBSON'S  WELL 

falls,  near  Relugas,  into  the  river  Fintlhorn.  A  capital 
trout  stream,  strictly  preserved,  it  almost  vies  with  the 
Fiudhorn  in  the  wild  and  varied  beauty  of  its  scenery, 
and  is  subject  to  terrific  freshets,  that  of  Aug.  1829 
doing  damage  at  Dunphail  to  the  extent  of  £5000. 
Near  Edinkillie  church  the  Divie  is  spanned  by  a  viaduct 
of  the  Highland  railway,  which,  measuring  500  feet  in 
length  of  masonry,  and  comprising  315  feet  of  arching, 
rises  to  a  maximum  height  of  170  feet  above  the  ordi- 
nary level  of  the  stream.  Four  battlemented  towers 
command  the  approaches,  which  are  gained  by  embank- 
ments containing  190,000  cubic  yards  of  material. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  84,  1S76.  See  chaps,  v.-vii.  of  Sir 
Thomas  Dick  Lauder's  Moray  Floods  (Elgin,  1830 ; 
3d  ed.  1873). 

Dobson's  Well,  a  weak  chalybeate  spring  in  Hadding- 
ton parish,  i  mile  W  of  Haddington  town. 

Dochaxt,  a  loch,  a  river,  and  a  glen  in  Killin  parish, 
Perthshire.  Lying  at  the  head  of  the  glen,  1  mile  E  of 
Crianlarich  station,  and  512  feet  above  sea-level,  the 
loch  measures  6  by  1^  furlongs,  is  overhung  to  the  SE 
by  conical  Benmore  (3843  feet),  and  contains  a  small 
•wooded  islet,  on  which  stand  the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the 
Campbells  of  Lochawe.  At  its  head  it  receives  the 
FlLL.\N,  and  from  its  foot  sends  off  the  river  Dochart, 
which  flows  13:J  miles  east-north-eastward  to  the  head 
of  Loch  Tay  (290  feet),  in  the  first  |  mile  of  its  course 
expanding  into  Loch  Tubhair  (IJ  mile  x  2^  furl.  ;  512 
feet),  and  ^  mile  from  its  mouth  being  joined  by  the 
Lochy.  Just  above  Killin,  it  '  takes  up  a  roaring 
voice,  and  beats  its  way  over  a  rocky  descent  among 
large  black  stones  ;  islands  in  the  middle  turning  the 
stream  this  way  and  that ;  the  whole  course  of  the  river 
verv  wide.'  Stream  and  lochs  contain  salmon  and 
trout,  also — unluckily — pike.  Glen  Dochart,  at  a  point 
2i  miles  SW  of  Killin,  is  joined  at  right  angles  from 
the  S  by  Glen  Ogle,  and  takes  up  thence,  past  Loch 
Dochart,  the  Callander  and  Oban  railway ;  along  it 
from  W  to  E  are  Lochdochart  Lodge,  Luic  station 
and  hotel,  Auchlyne  House,  and  Ardchyle  hamlet. 
For  an  exquisite  picture  of  loch  and  river  and  glen 
we  must  recur  to  Dorothy  Wordsworth,  who,  with 
her  brother,  drove  from  King's  House  to  Luib  on  Sun- 
day, 4  Sept.  1803: — 'We  had  about  eleven  miles  to 
travel  before  we  came  to  our  lodging,  and  had  gone 
five  or  six,  almost  always  descending,  and  still  in  the 
same  vale  (Strath  Fillan),  when  we  saw  a  small  lake 
before  us,  after  the  vale  had  made  a  bending  to  the  left. 
It  was  about  sunset  when  we  came  up  to  the  lake  ;  the 
afternoon  breezes  had  died  away,  and  the  water  was  in 
perfect  stillness.  One  grove-like  island,  with  a  ruin 
that  stood  upon  it  overshadowed  by  the  trees,  was 
reflected  on  the  water.  This  building,  which,  on  that 
beautiful  evening,  seemed  to  be  wra])ped  up  in  religious 
quiet,  we  were  informed  had  been  raised  for  defence  by 
some  Highland  chieftain.  All  traces  of  strength,  or 
war,  or  danger  are  passed  away,  and  in  the  mootl  in 
which  we  were  we  could  only  look  upon  it  as  a  place  of 
retirement  and  peace.  The  lake  is  called  Loch  Dochart. 
We  passed  by  two  others  of  inferior  beauty,  and  con- 
tinued to  travel  along  the  side  of  the  same  river,  the 
Dochart,  through  an  irregular,  undetermined  vale — 
poor  soil  and  nmch  waste  land.  ...  On  Alonday 
we  set  ofl"  again  a  little  after  six  o'clock — a  fine  morning 
— eight  miles  to  Killin — the  river  Dochart  always  on 
our  left.  The  face  of  the  country  not  very  interesting, 
though  not  unjjleasing,  reminding  us  of  some  of  the 
vales  of  the  north  of  England,  though  meagi-e,  nipped- 
up,  or  shrivelled  compared  with  them.  Within  a  mile 
or  two  of  Killin  the  land  was  better  cultivated,  and, 
looking  down  the  vale,  we  had  a  view  of  Loch  Tay. 
.  .  .  We  crossed  the  Dochart  by  means  of  three 
bridges,  which  make  one  continued  bridge  of  great 
length.  On  an  islan<l  Ijelow  the  bridge  is  a  gateway 
with  tall  pillars,  leading  to  an  old  burying-ground  be- 
longing to  some  noble  family'  (pp.  185-187  of  Recollec- 
timis  of  a  Tour  in  Scotland,  ed.  by  Princ.  Shairp,  1874). 
This  burying-gi-ound  is  that  of  the  Macnabs,  from  whom 
Glcu  Dochart  was  named  the  Macnab  country.  It  now 
353 


DOLL 

is  included  in  the  Breadalbane  territory,  the  clan  having 
emigrated  to  Canada  in  the  first  two  decades  of  the 
present  century.  Francis,  twelfth  laird  (1734-181G), 
was  an  eccentric  character,  who,  in  company  once  with 
some  English  gentlemen  connected  with  the  Excise, 
answered  a  query  respecting  the  state  of  Glen  Dochart 
with  :  '  Ther  was  once  a  crater  callt  exciseman  sent 
up  to  my  country,  but — they  kilt  him.' — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
46,  1872. 

Dochfour,  a  lake  in  Inverness  parish,  Inverness-shire, 
in  the  Great  Glen,  5  miles  SW  of  Inverness  town.  An 
expansion  of  the  river  Ness,  separated  by  a  run  of 
only  \  mile  of  that  river  from  the  foot  of  Loch  Ness,  it 
measures  1^  by  \  mile,  and  is  sometimes  called  Little 
Loch  Ness.  The  hills  around  are  beautifully  wooded, 
and  a  burn  that  runs  into  it  makes  some  pretty  cascades. 
Dochfour  House,  on  its  western  shore  is  a  mansion  in 
the  Venetian  style,  described  by  Prince  Albert  as  'new 
and  very  elegant,  with  a  fine  garden,'  on  occasion  of  his 
visit  here,  16  Sept.  1847.  Its  owner,  Evan  Baillie,  Esq. 
(b.  1798),  holds  141,148  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£15,931  per  annum.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  S3,  ISSl. 

Dochgarroch,  a  hamlet  in  Inverness  parish,  Inver- 
ness-shire, on  the  Caledonian  Canal,  at  the  foot  of  Loch 
Dochfour,  4J  miles  SW  of  Inverness.  It  has  a  regulat- 
ing lock  on  the  canal,  for  averting  winter  floods  of  Loch 
Ness  whenever  these  rise  above  the  standard-level  of  the 
navigation  ;  and  has  also  a  public  school. 

Dodbum.     See  Allan,  Roxburghshire. 

Dod  Hill.     See  Wanlockhead. 

Dods-Corse  Stone,  an  ancient  cross  on  Boon  farm,  in 
Legerwood  j)arish,  Berwickshire,  4  miles  ESE  of  Lauder. 
It  is  a  sandstone  shaft,  sunk  into  a  square  sandstone 
block,  and  is  said  to  have  been  a  market-cross. 

Dodside,  a  hamlet  in  Mearns  parish,  SE  Renfrewshire, 
near  Newton-Mearns. 

Doecleugh,  a  place  on  Skelfliill  farm,  in  Teviothead 
parish,  Roxburghshire,  7  miles  SSW  of  Hawick.  It  has 
an  ancient  Caledonian  hill-fort,  and  it  adjoins  the  line 
of  the  Catrail. 

Dogden,  an  extensive  moss  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Greenlaw  and  Westruther  parishes,  Berwickshire. 

Dogs,  Isle  of,  a  tiny  wooded  island  in  Loch  Laggan, 
Laggan  parish,  Inverness-shire,  nearlj'  opposite  Ardveri- 
kie.  It  is  said  to  have  contained  the  kennel  of  ancient 
Scottish  kings  for  their  huntings  in  Lochaber. 

Dog's  Stone  (Gael.  Clach-a-Choin),  a  huge  isolated 
conglomerate  block  on  the  shore  of  Oban  Bay,  Argyll- 
shire, f  mile  NNW  of  Oban  town.  AVith  a  deejily 
water-worn  base,  and  an  outline  somewhat  similar  to 
that  of  an  inverted  cone,  it  embeds  large  fragments  and 
boulders,  and  seems  at  one  time  to  have  formed  part  of 
a  high  precipitous  sea  beach.  Curious  legends  are 
attached  to  it — that  Fingal  here  tethered  his  '  blue-eyed 
hunter'  Bran,  and  that  the  Lords  of  Lorn  kennelled 
their  hounds  beside  it  at  their  hunting  expeditions  with 
the  Lords  of  the  Isles. 

Dogton,  a  farm  in  Kinglassie  parish,  Fife,  4f  miles 
NW  of  Kirkcaldy.  It  contains  an  ancient  hewn  stand- 
ing stone,  4 1  feet  high  above  the  socket,  and  11  inches 
thick. 

Doine,  a  lake  in  Balquhidder  parish,  Perthshire,  in 
the  ujjper  part  of  the  Balquhidder  vale,  4|  miles  W 
by  S  of  Balquhidder  hamlet.  Lying  420  feet  above  sea- 
level,  it  has  an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  7i  and  2^ 
furlongs  ;  is  overhung  steeply  to  the  N  by  ]\Ieall  Jlona- 
chyle  (2123  feet) ;  and  by  a  reach  of  the  river  Balvag, 
1^  furlong  in  length,  communicates  eastward  with  Loch 
VoiL,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  only  a  low  patch 
of  haugh,  that  in  times  of  freshet  is  sometimes  over- 
flowed.—0/y;.  Sur.,  sh.  46,  1872. 

Doll,  a  glen  in  the  NW  of  Cortachy  and  Clova  parish, 
Forfarshire,  near  the  meeting-point  with  Pcrtli  and 
Aberdeen  shires.  It  is  traversed  by  the  White  Water, 
running  6\  miles  cast-south-eastward  to  the  river  South 
Esk,  at  a  point  3  miles  WNW  of  Clova  hamlet ;  and  it 
is  remarkalile  for  the  variety  of  its  flora  and  for  an  over- 
hanging rock,  the  Scorrie  of  the  Doll. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
Go,  1870. 


DOLLAR 

Dollar  (Celt,  dal-aird,  'vale  amid  the  hills'),  a  small 
town  and  a  parish  of  Clackmannanshire.  The  town 
stands  at  the  foot  of  the  Ochils,  ISO  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  5  furlongs  N  of  the  right  bank  of  the  Devon  ; 
and  by  the  Devon  Valley  section  (1851-71)  of  the  North 
British  it  is  6  J  miles  NE  by  E  of  Alloa,  41  i  NW  of  Edin- 
burgh, 12|  ENE  of  Stirling,  and  lOf  WSW  of  Kinross. 
Traversed  by  Dollar  Burn,  whose  glen,  followed  up- 
wards, leads  to  the  noble  ruins  of  Castle-Campbell, 
it  has  been  greatly  improved  and  extended  in  recent 
years,  and  presents  a  pleasant  picturesque  appearance ; 
at  it  are  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank, 
and  telegraph  departments,  a  branch  of  the  Clydesdale 
Bank,  the  Castle-Campbell  hotel,  gas-works,  the  Dollar 
club,  a  working  men's  reading-room,  ableachfield  (1787), 
and  two  brick  and  tile  works.  Fairs  are  held  on  the 
second  Monday  in  May  and  tlie  third  Monday  in  Octo- 
ber. Places  of  worship  are  the  parish  church  (1841 ; 
700  sittings),  an  imposing  Gothic  structure,  with  a  con- 
spicuous tower  ;  a  neat  Free  church  (1858  ;  600  sittings) ; 
aU.P.  church  (1876;  360  sittings),  built  at  a  cost  of 
£4500,  and  adorned  \vith  a  spire  70  feet  high  ;  and  the 
new  Episcopal  church  of  St  James  the  Greater  (1882), 
Early  English  in  style,  with  apsidal  chancel,  7  rose 
■irindows,  8  lancets,  etc.  John  M'Nab  (1732-1802),  a 
Dollar  herd-boy,  who  as  a  sea-captain  had  risen  to  wealth 
and  settled  at  Mile-end,  London,  left  £55,110  Three  per 
Cents,  the  half  of  his  fortune,  '  for  the  endowment  of  a 
charity  or  school  for  the  poor  of  the  parish  of  Dollar. ' 
With  this  bequest,  which  by  the  end  of  1825  had  accum- 
ulated to  £74,236,  was  founded  in  1818  Dollar  Institu- 
tion or  Academy,  whose  board  of  trustees  comprises  15 
ex  officio  members  under  an  Act  of  1847,  and  which, 
•with  a  principal  and  20  other  teachers,  gives  (1882) 
instruction  to  402  paying  and  110  free  scholars  in  classics, 
French,  German,  English,  history,  mathematics,  mecha- 
nics, science,  drawing,  singing,  and  other  branches  of  a 
liberal  education  ;  whilst  its  lower  and  infant  depart- 
ments, with  accommodation  for  597  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  373,  and  a  grant  of  £323.  The 
building,  erected  in  1819  after  designs  by  W.  Playfair, 
of  Edinburgh,  and  gi'eatly  extended  in  1867,  is  a  Grecian 
edifice,  186  feet  long  and  63  wide,  with  a  hexastyle 
portico  ;  a  dome,  upborne  by  fluted  columns  ;  a  library, 
45  feet  square  and  45  high,  containing  5000  volumes  ;  a 
splendid  upper  hall,  60  feet  long,  42  vride,  and  24  high  ; 
and  a  well-kept  garden  of  5  acres.  The  Institution  has 
drawn,  on  the  one  hand,  many  families  to  Dollar  ;  and, 
on  the  other,  a  number  of  its  scholars  board  with  the 
principal  or  under  masters  :  its  former  alumni  include 
James  Dewar,  since  1875  Jacksonian  professor  of  natural 
and  experimental  philosophy  at  Cambridge,  and  a  goodly 
list  besides  of  distinguished  ministers,  engineers,  mer- 
chants, and  others.  Its  income  in  1881  comprised 
£2235  from  endowment,  £1750  from  school  fees  and 
£739  from  other  sources ;  whilst  the  expenditure 
amounted  to  £4605,  of  which  £3075  was  for  salaries. 
Pop.  of  town  (1841)  1131,  (1851)  1079,  (1861)  1540, 
(1871) 2090,  (1881)  2120. 

The  parish,  containing  also  Sheardale  village.  If  mile 
to  the  SSW,  is  bounded  NW  by  Blackford,  and  N  by 
Glendevon,  in  Perthshire  ;  E  by  Muckhart  and  Fossoway, 
both  also  in  Perthshire  ;  S  by  Clackmannan ;  and  W  by 
Tillicoultry.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  3  J  miles ; 
its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  1§  and  3g  miles ; 
and  its  area  is  4795^  acres,  of  which  22  are  water.  The 
Devon,  entering  from  Muckhart,  winds  3|  miles  west- 
ward, across  the  southern  interior  and  on  or  close  to 
the  Tillicoultry  border,  and  receives  on  the  way  Dollar 
Bum,  which,  itself  hurrying  1|  mile  south-by-eastward 
past  the  town,  is  formed  just  below  Castle-Campbell  by 
the  Bums  of  Sorrow  and  Care,  running  2J  miles  east- 
south-eastward,  and  li  mile  south -south-eastward  and 
southward,  from  the  northern  confines  of  the  parish. 
Westward  along  the  Devon  the  surface  declines  to  close 
upon  50  feet  abo%'e  sea-level,  thence  rising  southward  to 
353  feet  near  Sheardale,  and  northward  to  538  near 
Hillfoot  House,  2111  at  King's  Seat  on  the  western 
border,  and  2110  at  "NVTiitewisp  Hill  in  the  N — smooth 


DOLPHINTON 

summits  these  of  the  green  pastoral  Ochils,  that  com- 
mand magnificent  views.  A  spongy  morass,  Maddy 
Moss,  on  the  NW  border,  lying  at  an  altitude  of  from 
1500  to  1750  feet,  and  covering  upwards  of  150  acres, 
occasionally  bursts  its  barrier,  and  sends  down  a  muddy 
torrent,  by  the  Burn  of  Sorrow,  to  the  Devon.  The  rocks 
of  the  hills  are  eruptive,  those  of  the  valley  carbonifer- 
ous. Coal  and  sandstone  are  plentiful ;  copper,  iron, 
and  lead  were  formerly  wrought  in  the  Ochils,  a  little 
above  the  town  ;  and  beautiful  agates  have  been  found 
on  the  top  of  Whitewisp;  whilst  a  chalybeate  spring, 
powerfully  astringent  and  of  medicinal  efficacy  both  ex- 
ternally and  internally,  was  discovered  in  1830  at  Vicar's 
Bridge.  The  soil  is  argillaceous  along  the  Devon,  and 
on  the  lands  thence  to  the  hills  is  light  and  gravelly — 
about  1740  acres  being  either  arable  or  grass  land,  230 
under  wood,  and  all  the  rest  either  hill-pasture  or  waste. 
In  877  the  Danes,  expelled  by  the  Norwegians  from 
Ireland,  entered  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  and,  passing  through 
the  region  watered  by  the  Teith  and  Forth,  attacked  the 
province  of  Fife.  A  battle  fought  by  them  at  Dollar 
went  against  the  Scots,  who,  fleeing  north-eastward  to 
Inverdovet  in  Forgan,  were  there  a  second  time  routed, 
King  Constantin  mac  Kenneth  being  among  the  multi- 
tude of  the  slain  (Skene's  Celtic  Scotland,  i.  327,  1876). 
The  other  chief  episode  in  Dollar's  history  is  the  burning 
of  its  vicar,  Thomas  Forret,  for  heresy,  at  Edinburgh, 
in  1538.  From  1493  to  1605  most  of  the  parish  belonged 
to  the  Earls  of  Argyll ;  at  present  4  proprietors  hold  each 
an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  10  of  between 
£100  and  £500,  18  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  44  of  from 
£20  to  £50.  Dollar  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Stirling  and 
svnod  of  Perth  and  Stirling  ;  the  living  is  worth  £243. 
Valuation  (1866)  £6049,  (1882)  £12,641,  15s.  Pop. 
(1801)  693,  (1831)  1447,  (1861)  1776,  (1871)  2524. 
(1881)  24:99.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  39,  1867. 

Dollar  Law,  a  mountain  on  the  mutual  bor  er  of 
]\Ianor  and  Drummekier  parishes,  Peeblesshire,  4|  miles 
SE  of  Drummelzier  village,  and  9h  miles  SW  by  S  of 
Peebles.  Rising  2680  feet  above  sea-level,  it  commands 
a  view  over  the  Lothians,  and  away  over  Berwickshire, 
to  Northumberland. 

Dollars,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Riccarton  parish, 
Ayrshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Cessnock  Water,  4|  miles; 
SE  of  Kilmarnock. 

DoUas.     See  Dallas. 

DoUerie,  a  mansion  in  Madderty  parish,  Perthshire^ 
2f  miles  E  by  S  of  Crieff.  Its  owner,  Anthony  Murray. 
Esq.  (b.  1802  ;  sue.  1838),  holds  1104  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £1768  per  annum. 

Dolls.     See  Glenochil. 

Dolphingston,  a  hamlet  in  Prestonpans  parish,  Had- 
dingtonshire, 1^  mile  W  of  Tranent.  It  contains  several 
broken  walls  and  gables,  evidently  of  great  antiquity, 
and  probably  monastic. 

Dolphinton,  a  post-office  hamlet  and  a  parish  on  the 
eastern  border  of  the  upper  ward  of  Lanai-kshire.  The 
hamlet  stands  7  furlongs  SSW  of  Dolphinton  station, 
which,  as  the  junction  of  two  branches  of  the  Caledonian 
and  North  British,  is  11  miles  E  by  N  of  Carstairs,  IC 
WSW  of  Leadburn,  and  27^  SW  of  Edinburgh. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NE  and  E  by  Linton,  and  SE 
by  Kirkiu'd,  in  Peeblesshire ,  SW  by  Walston  ;  and  NW 
by  Dunsyre.  In  shape  a  triangle,  with  southward  apex, 
it  has  an  utmost  length  from  N  by  E  to  S  by  W  of  of 
miles,  an  utmost  breadth  from  E  to  W  of  2^  miles,  and 
an  area  of  3581^  acres,  of  which  7^  are  water.  The 
drainage  belongs  partly  to  the  Clyde,  partly  to  the 
Tweed,  inasmuch  as  South  Medwin  Water  runs  2| 
miles  south-westward  along  all  the  boundary  with  Dun- 
syre, Tahtii  Water  1  mile  southward  along  that  with  Lin- 
ton ;  and  Back  Burn,  rising  in  tlie  S  of  the  parish,  flows 
3  miles  north-eastward  to  the  Tarth  through  the  interior. 
In  the  \V  along  the  Medwin  the  surface  declines  to  a  little 
more,  in  the  E  along  the  Tartli  to  a  little  less,  than  700 
feet  above  sea-level ;  and  the  '  divide '  between  the  two 
river  systems  is  marked  by  White  Hill  (1437  feet)  and 
Blacic  Mount  (1689).  The  rocks,  over  nine-tenths  of 
the  entire  area,  are  eruptive  ;  the  soil,  in  most  parts,  is 


DOLPHISTON 

a  dry  friable  earth  or  sandy  loam.  More  than  300  acres 
are  under  wood,  and  about  250  acres  of  the  uplands 
might  be  profitably  reclaimed.  The  manor  belonged  in 
the  former  half  of  the  12th  century  to  Dolfine,  elder 
brother  of  the  first  Earl  of  Dunbar,  after  whom  it  re- 
ceived its  name  ;  subsci]uently  it  became  a  pertinent  of 
BoTHWELL,  and  shared  long  in  the  fortunes  of  that 
barony.  Major  Learmont,  who  commanded  the  Cove- 
nanting horse  at  the  battle  of  RuUion  Green  (1666),  and 
long  lay  in  hiding  from  pursuit  by  the  authorities,  held 
the  property  of  Newholm,  and  was  interred  in  Dolphin- 
ton  churchyard;  "William  Leechman,  D.D.  (1706-85), 
professor  of  theology  in  Glasgow  university,  was  son  of 
a  Dolphinton  farmer  ;  and  Dr  Alton,  author  of  interest- 
ing works  on  Palestine,  was  minister,  and  wrote  the 
article  '  Dolphinton '  for  the  iN'ceo  Statistical  Account. 
Dolphinton  House,  a  little  W  of  the  village,  is  the  seat 
of  John  Ord  Mackenzie,  Esq.,  W.S.  (b.  ISll ;  sue.  1850), 
who  owns  3027  acres,  valued  at  £2262  per  annum.  This 
parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Biggar  and  synod  of  Lothian 
and  Tweeddale  ;  the  living  is  worth  £208.  The  church 
is  old,  and  contains  1-10  sittings  ;  whilst  a  public 
school,  with  accommodation  for  83  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  46,  and  a  grant  of  £48,  ISs. 
Valuation  (1882)  £3464,  4s.  Pop.  (1801)  231,  (1831) 
302,  (1861)  260,  (1871)  231,  (1881)  292.— Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  24,  1864. 

Dolphiston,  a  farm  in  Oxnam  parish,  Roxburghshire, 
near  the  right  bank  of  Jed  Water,  4f  miles  SSE  of 
Jedburgh.  Its  curious  old  Border  fortalice,  now  de- 
molished, was  the  haunt  of  a  brownie,  till,  hurt  1)y  the 
ofifer  of  a  coarse  linen  shirt,  he  departed,  and  in  depart- 
ing sang— 

'  Sin'  ye've  gien  me  a  harden  ramp, 
Nae  mair  o'  3'our  corn  I  \rill  tramp.' 

Don,  a  river  of  S  Aberdeenshire,  that  forms  a  sort  of 
twin  stream  to  the  Dee,  ranking  next  thereto  among 
Aberdeenshire  rivers  as  regards  at  once  basin,  magni- 
tude, and  notability,  and  possessing  like  it  much  volume 
of  water  and  much  fine  scenery,  with  very  little  com- 
mercial importance.  Yet  the  Don  differs  essentially 
from  the  Dee  in  some  great  characters  and  even  presents 
some  striking  contrasts.  It  rises,  as  a  small  mossy 
stream,  If  mile  SSAV  of  Meikle  Geal  Charn  (2833  feet), 
close  to  the  Banffshire  border,  and  within  a  mile  of  the 
river  Aven  ;  and  thence  winds  eastward  in  a  direction 
somewhat  parallel  to  the  Dee,  at  a  mean  distance  of 
about  9  miles  to  the  N,  but  through  a  country  much 
less  mountainous,  and  abounding  far  more  in  plains  and 
meadows.  AVith  little  or  none  of  the  impetuousness  or 
fitfulness  of  the  Dee,  it  displays  a  prevailing  current  of 
gentleness,  calmness,  and  regularity,  and,  making  great 
loops  and  bends  now  to  the  right,  now  to  the  left,  it 
falls  at  last  into  the  German  Ocean,  1  mile  NE  of  Old 
Aberdeen,  and  2i  miles  N  of  the  mouth  of  the  Dee. 
From  soiu'ce  to  mouth  it  has  a  total  length,  following 
its  windings,  of  82 J  miles,  viz.,  20§  to  Castlc-Newe 
bridge,  42|  thence  to  the  Ury's  influx,  and  19^  thence 
to  the  sea.  And  from  1980  feet  above  sea-level  at  its 
source,  it  descends  to  1320  at  Cock  Bridge  near  Corgarff 
Castle,  900  near  Castle-Newe,  450  near  Alford,  and  170 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Ury.  Its  chief  tributaries  are  the 
Conrie,  tlie  Carvie,  and  the  Leochel  on  the  right  bank, 
and  the  Ernan,  the  Nochty,  the  Bucket,  the  Kindy,  and 
the  Ury  on  the  left.  The  parishes  traversed  or  bounded 
by  it  are  Strathdon,  Tarland,  Glenbucket,  Kildrummy, 
Towie,  Leochel,  Auchindoir,  Alford,  Tullynessle,  Keig, 
Tough,  Monymusk,  Oyne,  Chapel  of  Garioch,  Kemnay, 
Inverurie,  Kintore,  Keithhall,  Fintray,  Kinnellar,  Dyce, 
New  Machar,  Newhills,  and  Old  Machar  ;  and  in  our 
articles  on  these  parishes  details  will  be  found  as  to  the 
villages,  seats,  etc.,  along  its  banks. 

The  river's  course,  from  the  liead  of  Strathdon  to  the 
upper  part  of  Alford,  lies  chiefly  along  a  series  of  glens  ; 
contracts  then,  for  a  short  distance,  into  a  narrow  gullet ; 
but  opens  presently  into  a  considerable  vale,  with  great 
expanses  of  meadowland  on  tlie  immediate  banks  ;  and 
lastly,  from  the  New  Bridge  of  Old  Aberdeen  to  the  sea, 
is  a  narrow  artificial  channel.  Its  original  mouth  is 
360 


DOON 

presumed  to  have  been  identical  with  that  of  the  Dee  ; 
was  afterwards  at  a  point  nearly  midway  between  the 
Dee's  and  its  own  present  mouth  ;  and  was  diverted  to 
its  present  situation  by  the  cutting  of  an  artificial  chan- 
nel for  its  lower  reach,  about  the  year  1750,  under  the 
direction  of  Professor  James  Gregory.  The  river  is  sub- 
ject to  great  freshets ;  swept  away,  in  the  autumn  of  1768, 
the  greater  part  of  the  crops  on  the  haughs  and  level 
lands  adjacent  to  its  bed  ;  made  similar  devastation  in 
Aug.  1799  ;  rose,  on  4  Aug.  1829,  to  a  height  of  14 
feet  above  its  ordinary  level ;  and  is  now  prevented 
from  working  similar  havoc  onl}'  hy  extensive  embank- 
ments in  the  parts  of  its  course  most  subject  to  inunda- 
tion. It  is  one  of  the  best  trouting  streams  in  Scotland 
(especiall}'  in  its  ujiper  waters),  and  has  some  valuable 
salmon  fishings.  Pike  are  fortunately  few  ;  but  river 
trout,  ranging  in  weight  from  h  lb.  to  5  lbs. ,  abound,  as 
also  do  salmon  and  sea-trout.  As  many  as  forty  salmon 
were  killed  in  one  season,  by  a  single  rod,  in  one  pool 
near  Alford  Bridge  ;  and  3000  salmon  and  grilse  were 
netted  at  its  mouth  in  a  single  week  of  July  1849. 
Between  1790  and  1800  the  yearly  average  number  of 
salmon  and  grilse  caught  in  the  Don  amounted  to 
43,240,  between  1813  and  1824  to  40,677  ;  and  in  1881 
towards  the  end  of  July  and  throughout  August  the  net 
fishings  of  the  nether  Don  yielded  between  300  and  400 
salmon  per  day,  but  this  was  a  great  improvement  over 
the  past  two  years. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  75,  76,  77, 1876-73. 
See  chap.  xxii.  of  Sir  Thomas  Dick  Lauder's  Moray 
Floods  (Elgin,  1830  ;  3d  ed.  1873). 

Don,  a  sea-loch  in  the  E  of  Mull  island,  Argyllshire, 
opposite  the  middle  of  Kerrera.  Striking  2|  miles  north- 
westward, and  nowhere  exceeding  1  mile  in  width,  it 
has,  at  the  S  side  of  its  mouth,  the  hamlet  of  Achnacraig. 

Donald's  Cleuch,  a  cul  de  sac  in  the  SE  of  Tweedsmuir 
parish,  Peeblesshire,  striking  off  from  Gameshope  Burn 
to  Donald's  Clench  Head  (2616  feet)  on  the  Dumfries- 
shire border.  It  is  thought  to  have  got  its  name  from 
being  a  retreat  of  the  famous  Covenanter,  Donald  Cargill. 

Donan,  a  small  island  at  the  SW  corner  of  Ross-shire, 
in  Loch  Alsh,  at  the  point  where  that  sea-loch  forks 
into  Lochs  Long  and  Duich. 

Donan  Castle.     See  Castle-Donnan. 

Donavourd,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Logierait 
parish,  Perthshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Tay,  2  miles 
SE  of  Pitlochry.  Its  o\vner,  George  Gordon,  Escp  (b. 
1816  ;  sue.  1838),  holds  2760  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £577  per  annum. 

Don,  Bridge  of,  a  suburb  of  Old  Aberdeen,  in  Old 
]\Iachar  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  on  the  river  Don,  2  miles 
N  of  Alierdcen,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 

Donibristle,  an  estate  in  Dalgety  parish,  Fife,  on  the 
Firth  of  Fortli,  3  miles  WSW  of  Aberdour.  Long  the 
property  of  the  abbots  of  Inchcolm,  it  was  granted  along 
with  the  other  possessions  of  that  abbey  to  Sir  James 
Stuart,  Lord  Donne,  whose  son  and  namesake,  the 
'  I)onny  Earl  of  Moray,'  was  slain  here  by  Gordon  of 
Cluny  and  the  Earl  of  Huntly  on  7  Feb.  1592 — an 
episode  that  forms  the  theme  of  a  fine  old  ballad.  The 
present  Earl  of  Moray  holds  7463  acres  in  Fife,  valued 
at  £11,086  per  annum.  The  mansion  of  Donibristle  has 
thrice  been  burned,  on  the  last  occasion  in  1858,  when 
a  number  of  valual)le  portraits  perished  in  the  flames. 

Donibristle  Colliery,  a  village,  with  a  public  school, 
in  Aberdour  parish,  Fife,  2  miles  ESE  of  Crossgates. 

Doon,  a  steep  round  hill  (945  feet)  in  Tynron  parish, 
Dumfriesshire,  terminating  the  SE  end  of  a  hill-range 
between  Scar  and  Shinnel  Waters,  4  miles  WSW  of 
Thornhill.  It  seems  anciently  to  have  been  thickly 
clothed  with  forest,  and  was  crowned  at  an  early  period 
by  some  kind  of  fortalice  or  habitation,  which  is  said 
to  have  been  a  retreat  of  Robert  Bruce,  after  his  slaying 
the  Red  Comyn  at  Dumfries. 

Doon,  a  huig  hill  of  considerable  height  (582  feet),  the 
outmost  spur  of  tlie  Lammermuirs,  in  Spott  parish,  Had- 
dingtonshire, 2J  miles  S  by  E  of  Dunbar.  On  its  top 
and  slope  lay  David  Leslie's  Scotch  army,  23, 000  strong, 
the  two  first  days  of  September  1650,  the  third  being  that 
of  the  Battle  of  Dunbak. 


BOON 


DORES 


Doon,  a  loch  partly  in  Kirkcudbrightshire,  but  chiofly 
in  Ayrshire,  and  a  river  dividing  the  Ayrshire  districts 
of  Carrick  and  Kyle.  Lying  680  feet  above  sea-level, 
the  loch  extends  5|  miles  north-by-eastward  and  north- 
westward to  within  3  miles  of  Dalmellington  town,  and 
varies  in  width  between  2  and  6h  furlongs.  It  receives, 
at  its  head,  Gala  and  Carrick  Lanes,  discharging  the 
effluence  of  Lochs  Enoch,  Macaterick,  and  Riecawr  ;  on 
its  western  side,  is  joined  by  Garpel  Burn,  flowing  out 
of  Loch  Finlas  ;  and,  at  its  foot,  sends  'off  the  river 
Doon.  Its  surface  is  studded  with  five  little  islands 
or  groups  of  islands,  viz.,  from  S  to  N,  Pickinaw  Isles, 
Castle  Island,  Saugh  Island,  Garpel  Islands,  and  Gor- 
don's Island,  on  the  second  of  which  is  a  ruined  octan- 
gular tower — '  Balliol's  Castle.'  By  Chalmers  this  was 
identified  wath  Laight  Alpin,  the  scene  of  the  death 
of  King  Alpin  of  Dalriada  in  741,  which  Skene,  how- 
ever, places  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Loch  Ryan  ;  by 
Tytler  it  is  said  to  have  been  basely  yielded  to  the  Eng- 
lish in  1306,  when  Seaton,  its  lord,  who  had  married  a 
sister  of  Bruce,  was  carried  to  Dumfries  and  executed.  In 
1S26,  nine  ancient  canoes,  hollowed  each  from  a  single 
oak  tree,  and  from  16J  to  22J  feet  long,  were  found 
sunk  in  the  loch  near  this  islet.  Boats  are  kept,  and 
trout  and  char  are  fairly  plentiful.  '  Viewed  from  a 
distant  eminence,'  says  Mr  Harper,  'Loch  Doon  has 
more  the  appearance  of  a  river  than  a  lake.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  lofty  hills  (1000  to  2000  feet  in  height)  on 
both  the  Carsphairn  or  Galloway  and  the  Straiton  or 
Carrick  side,  the  Gallowegian  being  green  and  grassy, 
excellent  for  sheep  pasture,  to  which  they  are  almost 
entirely  devoted.  Those  on  the  Carrick  side  are  wild 
and  solitary,  vnih  nought  but  rocks  and  heather.  By 
tunnels,  which  have  been  formed  to  prevent  the  lake, 
when  swollen  by  heavy  rains,  from  overflowing  the  ex- 
tensive tracts  of  meadow-land  along  the  banks  of  the 
river,  its  waters  have  been  lowered  considerably  from 
their  original  level,  and  the  exposure  of  tracts  of  barren 
sand,  gravel,  and  stone  on  its  banks,  detracts  consider- 
ably from  its  beauty '  {llamhles  in  Galloway,  1876). 

The  river  Doon,  emerging  by  these  two  tunnels,  cut  out 
of  the  solid  rock,  rushes  impetuously  into  ISTess  Glen,  a 
romantic  wooded  gorge  some  30  feet  wide,  300  deep,  and 
1  mile  long ;  expands  next  into  Bogton  Loch  (6  x  1\ 
furl. ),  in  the  vicinity  of  Dalmellington  ;  and  thence 
winds  north-westward,  past  Waterside,  Patna,  Dalrymple, 
Cassills  House,  Auchendrane  House,  and  Alloway,  till, 
after  a  total  course  of  26|  miles,  it  falls  into  the  Firth 
of  Clyde,  If  mile  S  by  W  of  Ayr.  Its  tributaries  are 
numerous,  but  small.  The  parishes,  on  its  left  bank, 
are  Straiton,  Kirkmichael,  and  Maybole  ;  on  its  right, 
Dalmellington,  Dalrymple,  and  Ayr  or  Alloway.  For 
the  first  3  miles  below  Bogton  Loch  the  Doon's  right 
bank  is  fringed  by  the  crescent-shaped  vale  of  Dalmel- 
lington ;  .  for  the  next  5,  on  either  side  rise  treeless, 
heathy  knolls,  or  tame,  uninteresting  hills  ;  but  thence, 
right  onward  to  the  sea,  the  stream  has  channelled  out 
a  mighty  furrow,  10  to  200  feet  deep,  and  30  to  150 
yards  wide  at  the  top,  its  bosky  sides — 

'  the  bonnie  winding  banks 
Wliere  Doon  rins,  wimplin,  clear.' 

'  Naebody  sings  the  Doon, '  thus  Bums  complained  in 
1785  ;  but  Burns  himself  atoned  for  the  neglect,  so  that 
its  '  Banks  and  Braes, '  the  Downans  of  Cassillis,  and 
auld  Kirk-Alloway  '  shine  wi'  the  best '  now,  even  with 
Tweed  and  Yarrow.  Its  waters  contain  good  store  of 
trout,  sea-trout,  and  salmon  ;  and  large  pike  lurk  in  its 
more  sluggish  pools. — Ord,  Sur.,  shs.  8,  14,  1863. 

Doon  Hill.     See  Doon. 

Doonholm,  a  mansion  in  Ayr  parish,  A}Tshire,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Doon,  3  miles  S  of  the  town  of  Ayr. 
It  is  the  seat  of  the  judge,  Colin  Blackburn,  P.C.  (b. 
1813),  who  in  1876  received  a  life-peerage  as  Baron 
Blackburn  of  Killearn,  and  who  holds  154  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £344  per  annum. 

Doonside,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  and  with  ves- 
tiges of  an  ancient  castle,  in  Maybole  parish,  Ayrshire, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Doon,  3  miles  S  of  Ayr. 


Dorary,  an  isolated  hilly  pendicle  of  Thurso  parish, 
Caithness,  surrounded  by  Reay  and  Halkirk  parishes, 
4^  miles  SSW  of  the  main  body  of  Thurso  parish.  It 
belonged  to  the  Bishops  of  Caithness  ;  it  has  remains  of 
an  ancient  chapel,  called  Gavin's  Kirk  or  Temple  Gavin  ; 
and  it  commands  a  very  grand  and  extensive  view. 

Dorback  Bum.     See  Abernethy,  Inverness-shire. 

Dorbock,  a  picturesque  rivulet  of  Edinkillie  parish, 
Elginshire,  issuing  from  Locuindokb  (969  feet),  and 
running  8|  miles  north-north-eastward  along  the  Crom- 
dale  border  and  through  the  interior,  till,  \  mile  S  of 
Dunphail  House,  it  falls  into  the  Divie,  like  which  it 
wrought  great  havoc  in  the  August  floods  of  1829. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  84,  1876. 

Doreholm,  an  islet  of  Northmaven  parish,  Shetland,  on 
the  N  side  of  St  Magnus  Bay,  1^  mile  ESE  of  the  south- 
western extremity  of  Northmaven  mainland.  It  rises 
rockily  and  massively  from  the  water,  and  is  pierced  by  a 
natural  arch  or  tunnel,  54  feet  high,  lighted  by  an  open- 
ing at  the  top,  and  permitting  boatmen  to  fish  under  it. 

Doras.     See  Kettixs. 

Dores,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  NE  Inverness-shire. 
The  village  stands  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Loch  Ness, 
towards  its  foot,  7  miles  SSW  of  Inverness,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  office  ;  at  it  are  a  small  inn  and  a  steam- 
boat pier. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NE  by  Inverness,  SE  by 
Daviot-Dunlichity  and  the  Farraline  section  of  Bole- 
skine,  SW  by  Boleskine-Abertarff,  and  NW  bj'  Loch 
Ness  and  Inverness.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NNE  to 
SSW,  is  15i  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  WNW  to  ESE, 
varies  between  1  furlong  and  4J  miles  ;  and  its  land 
area  is  25,693  acres,  including  the  two  small  Dell  and 
Killin  sections,  surrounded  by  Boleskine.  The  river 
Faeigaig,  entering  from  Daviot,  and  winding  65  miles 
north-north-westward  and  south-westward  to  Loch  Ness 
at  the  south-western  corner  of  the  parish,  is  the  only 
considerable  stream  ;  and  the  eastei'n  half  of  the  lower 
lOf  miles  of  Loch  Ness  belong  to  Dores.  Other  lakes, 
with  utmost  length  and  breadth  and  altitude,  are  Lochs 
Bunachton  (|  x  ^  mile,  701  feet),  Dundelchack  (3| 
miles  X  1  mile,  702  feet),  and  Ruthven  (2J  miles  x  4^ 
furl.,  700  feet),  on  the  Daviot  border  ;  Loch  Farraline 
(9  X  2 J  furl. ,  650  feet),  on  the  Boleskine  detached  bor- 
der;  and,  in  the  interior.  Loch  Ashey  (If  mile  x  5 
furl.,  716  feet),  Lochan  nan  cun  Ruadha  (3|  x  2  furl., 
750  feet).  Loch  Ceo-Glas  (7x1  furl.,  760  feet),  and 
eight  smaller  ones.  Except  for  the  narrow  strip  along 
Loch  Ness,  traversed  by  Wade's  military  road,  which 
ranges  in  altitude  between  56  and  106  feet  above  sea- 
level,  for  Strath  Dores,  and  for  a  portion  of  Strath- 
errick,  the  surface  everywhere  is  hilly  or  mountainous, 
elevations  from  NNE  to  SSW  being  Drumashie  Moor 
(776  feet),  Creag  a'  Chlachain  (1000),  Ashie  Moor  (790), 
Tom  Bailgeann  (1514),  Carn  an  Fheadain  (1445),  and 
Cairn  Ardochy  (1116).  Llost  of  the  land  is  suited  only 
for  sheep-pasture,  the  light  arable  soils  lying  chiefly 
along  the  bottom  of  the  valleys,  but  with  patches  here 
and  there  among  the  hills.  The  rocks  are  mainly 
granitic ;  and  woods  and  plantations  cover  a  consider- 
able area,  especially  along  the  shore  of  Loch  Ness. 
Vestiges  of  an  ancient  fort,  supposed  to  be  Scandinavian, 
and  called  Dun-Richnan  or  the  Castle  of  the  King  of  the 
Ocean,  are  at  the  head  of  Loch  Ashey,  I4  mile  SE  of  the 
village  ;  and  several  cairns  a  little  to  the  E,  one  of  them 
almost  equal  in  size  to  all  the  rest,  are  fabled  to  com- 
memorate a  victory  won  by  Fingal  over  Ashi,  the  son  of 
a  Norwegian  king,  and  give  the  name  of  Drumashie 
('Ashi's  ridge')  to  their  site.  Aldourie  Castle  is 
the  principal  mansion  ;  and  3  pro]>rietors  hold  each 
an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  4  of  between 
£100  and  £500.  Dores  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Inver- 
ness and  synod  of  Moray ;  the  living  is  worth  £300, 
The  parish  church,  at  the  village,  was  built  in  1828, 
and  contains  500  sittings.  A  preaching-station  is  at 
Torness,  in  Stratherrick,  6  miles  S  of  the  village  ;  and 
a  Free  church  for  Dores  and  Bona  stands  \%  mile  NNE 
of  the  same ;  whilst  three  public  schools — Aldourie, 
Bunchrubin,  and  Strathenick — with  respective  accom. 

361 


DORMONT 

modation  for  125,  80,  and  110  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  20,  18,  and  48,  and  grants  of 
£35,  Is.,  £26,  and  £55, 18s.  Valuation  (1881^  £9008,  9s. 
Pop.  (1801)  1313, (1831) 1736, (1861)  1506,  (1871) 1401, 
(1881)  1146.— Orrf.  Siir.,  shs.  73,  83,  1878-81. 

Dormont,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Dalton  parish, 
Dumfriesshire.  The  mansion,  standing  on  tlie  right  bank 
of  the  Annan,  6  miles  SSW  of  Lockerbie,  was  built  in 
1823,  and  is  an  elegant  edifice,  amid  charming  grounds  ; 
its  o^vner,  William  Carruthers,  Esq.  (b.  1867  ;  sue.  1878), 
holds  6355  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £4698  per  annum. 

Dormont,  a  small  vale  in  Hounam  parish,  Roxburgh- 
shire. 

Domadilla,  an  ancient '  dun '  or  tower  in  Durness  par- 
ish, Sutherland,  in  Strathmore,  near  the  S  base  of  Ben 
Hope.  Traditionally  said  to  have  been  built  by  a  Scottish 
king,  to  serve  as  a  hunting  seat,  it  is  now  reduced  to  a 
fragment,  which,  16  feet  high  and  150  feet  in  circum- 
ference, consists  of  two  concentric  walls  of  slaty  stones. 

Domal,  a  loch  on  the  mutual  border  of  Colmonell  par- 
ish, S  Ayrshire,  and  Penninghame  parish,  NE  Wigtown- 
shire, 5f  miles  SE  of  Barrhill  station.  Lying  380  feet 
above  sea-level,  it  is  5  furlongs  long  from  E  to  W ;  varies 
in  width  between  1  and  4^  furlongs  ;  is  studded  with  six 
or  seven  tiny  islets  ;  contains  pike  and  trout,  the  latter 
of  from  h  lb.  to  5  or  6  lbs.  weight ;  and  sends  off  Carrick 
Burn,  running  2;^  miles  eastward  to  the  Cree,  at  a  point 
2  miles  W  by  S  of  Bargrennan. — Ord.  Siir.,  sh.  8,  1863. 

Domie,  a  fishing  village  in  Kintail  parish,  Ross-shire, 
at  the  head  of  Loch  Alsh,  where  it  branches  into  Lochs 
Long  and  Duich,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Castle-Donnan, 
7i  miles  S  of  Strome  Ferry.  It  contains  some  good 
houses,  and  has  a  post  oSice  under  Lochalsh,  a  girls' 
public  school,  and  a  ferry  across  the  outlet  of  Loch  Long. 

Domoch,  a  coast  town  and  parish  of  SE  Sutherland. 
The  capital  of  the  count}',  and  a  royal  and  parliamentary 
burgh,  the  town  is  8f  miles  N  by  E  of  Tain  vid  Meikle 
Ferry,  14.^  E  of  Bonar-Bridge  station,  and  7  SSE  of  the 
Mound  station,  ^vith  which  it  communicates  daily  by 
mail  gig,  and  which  itself  is  20i  miles  SW  of  Helms- 
dale, 23  ENE  of  Bonar-Bridge,  805  NNE  of  Inverness, 
272J  NNW  of  Edinburgh,  and  289  NNE  of  Glasgow. 
'Close  outside  the  town,' says  AVorsaae,  'there  stands 
the  Earl's  Cross,  a  stone  pillar  in  an  open  field,  which 
is  simply  the  remains  of  one  of  those  market-crosses,  so 
often  erected  in  pre-Reformation  times.  As  a  matter  of 
course,  the  arms  of  the  Earls  of  Sutherland  are  carved 
on  one  side  of  the  stone,  and  on  the  other  are  the  arms 
of  the  town — a  horsealioe.      Tradition,   however,  will 


Seal  of  Dornoch. 

have  it  that  the  pillar  was  reared  in  memory  of  a  battle, 
fought  towards  the  middle  of  the  13th  century  by  an 
Earl  of  Sutherland  against  the  Danes.  In  tlie  heat  of 
the  fray,  while  the  Earl  was  engaged  in  hand-to-hand 
combat  with  the  Danish  chief,  his  sword  broke  :  but  in 
this  desperate  strait,  he  was  lucky  enough  to  lay  hold 
of  a  horseshoe  (the  whole  leg  of  a  horse,  say  some)  that 
accidentally  lay  near  him,  with  which  he  succeeded  in 
killing  his  antagonist.  The  horseshoe  is  said  to  have 
362 


DORNOCH 

been  adopted  in  the  arms  of  the  town  in  memory  of  this 
feat  ; '  and  the  name  Dornoch  is  popularly  derived  from 
the  Gaelic  dorn-eich,  'a  horse's  hoof,'  though  dor-n-ach, 
'  field  between  two  waters,'  is  a  far  more  probable 
etymon.  Be  this  as  it  may,  Dornoch,  to  quote  Profes- 
sor J.  S.  Blackie,  who  wandered  hither  in  the  autumn 
of  1881,  is  'an  old-fashioned,  outlying,  outlandish  grey 
nest,  to  which  no  stranger  ever  thinks  of  going  except 
the  sheriff  of  the  county,  and  he  only  half  a  stranger  ; 
.  .  an  interesting  old  town,  with  a  splendid 
beach  for  bathing,  a  fresh,  breezy,  and  dry  atmosphere, 
and  a  golfing  ground  second  to  none  in  Scotland. '  Of 
the  last,  indeed.  Sir  Robert  Gordon  wrote  in  1630  that 
'  about  this  toun,  along  the  sea  coast,  there  are  the 
fairest  and  largest  linkes  or  green  feilds  of  any  pairt  of 
Scotland,  fitt  for  archery,  golfing,  ryding,  and  all  other 
exercise  ;  they  doe  surpasse  the  feilds  of  Montrose  or 
St  Andrews.'  The  town  itself — no  more  than  a  village 
really — consists  of  wide  regular  streets,  and  has  a  post 
office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph 
departments,  a  branch  of  the  Caledonian  Bank,  6  in- 
surance agencies,  2  hotels,  a  newsroom,  and  a  public 
library.  The  see  of  Caithness,  first  heard  of  about  1130, 
had  here  its  principal  church,  dedicated  to  St  Bar  or  Fin- 
bar ;  by  Bishop  Gilbert  de  Moravia  (1222-45)  this  church 
was  organised  as  the  cathedral  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  with 
a  chapter  of  ten  canons,  a  dean,  precentor,  chancellor, 
treasurer,  and  archdeacon  ;  and,  as  rebuilt  by  him,  in 
the  First  Pointed  style,  it  consisted  of  an  aisled  nave, 
transept,  choir,  and  massive  central  tower,  topped  with 
a  dwarfish  spire.  The  tower  is  all  that  remains  of  St 
Gilbert's  work,  since  in  1570  the  cathedral  was  burned 
by  John  Sinclair,  Master  of  Caithness,  and  lye  Mackay 
of  Strathnaver,  who,  taking  advantage  of  the  minority 
of  Alexander,  twelfth  Earl  of  Sutherland,  besieged  and 
plundered  Dornoch  with  a  small  army  fi'om  Caithness. 
Fortunately  the  tower  escaped,  and  with  it  some  fine 
Gothic  arches,  which  latter,  however,  fell  before  the 
terrific  gale  of  5  Nov.  1605 — the  day  on  which  the  Gun- 
powder Plot  was  discovered.  In  1614  the  thirteenth  Earl 
of  Sutherland  partially  repaired  the  cathedral,  to  make 
it  available  for  parish  church  ;  and  in  1835-37  it  was 
rebuilt  by  the  Duchess  of  Sutherland  at  a  cost  of  £6000. 
The  present  fabric,  containing  1000  sittings,  is  a  mix- 
ture of  Gothic  and  Vandalism,  and  measures  126  feet 
by  92  across  the  transepts.  In  the  southern  transept 
lie  sixteen  of  the  Earls  of  Sutherland  ;  in  the  northern 
is  a  stone  sarcophagus,  removed  from  the  choir,  and 
surmounted  by  a  cross-legged  effigy  of  either  the  founder 
or  the  founder's  brother.  Sir  Richard  de  Moravia ;  and 
the  choir,  now  mausoleum  of  the  Sutherland  family,  is 
graced  by  a  fine  marble  full-length  statue  of  the  first 
Duke  (1758-1833)  by  Chantrey,  with  a  large  tablet 
behind,  recording  the  lineage  and  virtues  of  his  Duchess- 
Countess  (1765-1839).  An  old  tower,  fronting  the 
cathedral,  represents  the  Bishop's  Palace,  which,  also 
burned  in  1570,  lay  in  ruins  till  1813,  when  jiart  of  it 
was  fitted  up  as  the  county  courthouse  and  gaol.  Subse- 
quently the  whole  was  removed,  excepting  this  western 
tower,  lofty  and  picturesque ;  and  on  the  site  thus 
cleared  were  built  the  large  and  handsome  County 
Buildings,  comprising  courthouse,  prison,  record-room, 
and  county  meeting-room.  The  prison  was  discontinued 
in  1880,  that  of  Dingwall  taking  its  place  ;  and  in  1881 
the  ancient  tower  was  refitted  and  refurbished  as  a  quaint 
dwelling-place  for  English  sportsmen.  Of  a  monastery 
of  Trinity  Friars,  alleged  by  Gordon  to  have  been 
founded  here  between  1270  and  1280,  not  even  a  vestige 
remains.  Besides  the  Cathedral,  now  used  as  the  parish 
church,  there  is  also  a  Free  church  ;  and  a  public  school 
and  a  Christian  Knowledge  Society's  school,  with  respec- 
tive accommodation  for  135  and  84  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  49  and  42,  and  grants  of 
£39,  5s.  6d.  and  £32,  3s.  Erected  into  a  free  royal 
burgh  and  port  by  Charles  I.  in  1628,  Dornoch  is 
governed  l)y  a  provost,  2  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a 
treasurer,  and  4  councillors  ;  with  Wick,  Tain,  Ding- 
wall, Cromarty,  and  Kirkwall  it  returns  one  memlier  to 
parliament.     The  municipal  and  parliamentary  consti- 


DORNOCH,  FIRTH  OF 

tuency  numbered  71  in  1SS2,  when  the  annual  value  of 
real  property  was  £901.  Pop.  (1831)  504,  (1841)  451, 
(1851)  599,  (1S61)  647,  (1871)  625,  (1881)  496. 

The  parish  contains  also  the  villages  of  Clashmore  and 
Embo,  3f  miles  W,  and  2|  NNE,  of  tlie  town  ;  and  it 
comprises  the  Kinnauld  portion  which,  surrounded  by 
Eogart  and  Golspie,  and  lying,  5  furlongs  N  of  the 
main  body,  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Fleet,  measures 
1^  by  1  mile,  and  adjoins  Rogart  station,  close  to  its 
western  extremity.  It  is  bounded  NW  and  N  by 
Rogart,  XE  by  Golspie,  E  and  S  by  the  Dornoch  Firth, 
and  SW  and  W  by  Creich  ;  and  has  a  varying  length 
from  E  to  "W  of  4|  and  9  J  miles,  a  varying  breadth  from 
N  to  S  of  7  furlongs  and  8§  miles,  and  an  area  of  33,931 
acres,  of  which  3194^  are  foreshore  and  284  water, 
■while  717§  belong  to  the  detached  portion.  The  Fleet 
flows  2  miles  east-south-eastward  along  the  Golspie 
border  to  the  head  of  salt-water  Loch  Fleet,  which,  3^ 
miles  long,  and  from  IJ  furlong  to  1§  mile  wide,  opens 
beyond  Little  Ferry  to  Dornoch  Firth  ;  the  Cairnaig, 
issuing  from  Loch  Buie,  runs  6|  miles  east-by-northward 
to  the  Fleet  through  the  north-western  interior  ;  and 
the  EvELix  winds  5J  miles  east-south-eastward  along 
the  boundary  -with  Creich,  then  7|  miles  east-south- 
eastward and  west-south-westward  to  Dornoch  Firth  at 
Meikle  Ferry.  The  seaboard,  12  miles  long,  is  low  antl 
flat,  fringed  to  the  S  by  Cuthill  and  Dornoch  sands  and 
links,  to  the  E  by  Embo  and  Coul  links  ;  inland  the 
surface  rises  west-north-westward  to  261  feet  near  Asdale, 
700  at  Creag  Asdale,  290  near  Poles,  326  near  Achavan- 
dra,  700  at  Creag  Amaill,  930  at  Creag  Liath,  1000  at 
Meall  nan  Eun,  898  at  Cnoc  na  Feadaige,  1048  at  Meall 
a'  Chaoruinn,  and  1144  at  Beinn  DonuiU.  The  rocks 
are  Secondary — for  the  most  part  sandstone,  which  has 
been  largely  quarried ;  and  coal  occurs  at  Clashmore. 
The  soil  is  clayey  inland  and  sandy  near  the  sea,  with 
an  irregular  belt  of  black  loam  intervening.  In  Little- 
town,  within  the  burgh,  is  the  spot  where  in  1722 
an  old  woman  was  burned  for  transforming  her  daughter 
into  a  pony  and  getting  her  shod  by  the  devil — 
the  last  judicial  execution  this  for  witchcraft  in  Scot- 
land. Modern  Skibo  Castle,  successor  to  that  in 
which  the  great  Marquis  of  Montrose  was  temporarily 
confined  after  his  capture  in  Asstnt,  is  the  principal 
mansion  ;  and  2  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value 
of  more,  3  of  less,  than  £500.  Dornoch  is  the  seat  of  a 
presbytery  in  the  synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caithness  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £435.  Balvraid,  Embo,  Rearquhar, 
and  Skibo  schools,  all  of  them  public  but  the  last, 
with  respective  accommodation  for  80,  62,  100,  and  76 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance'of  32,  33, 
55,  and  18,  and  gi-ants  of  £31,  16s.  6d.,  £20,  3s.  6d., 
£45,  5s.,  and  £30,  Is.  Valuation  (1882)  £7619,  17s.  6d., 
of  which  £5242  belonged  to  the  Duke  of  Sutherland,  and 
£1501, 13s.  6d.  to  E.  C.  Sutherland- Walker,  Esq.  of  Skibo. 
Pop.  (1801)  2362, (1831) 3380, (1861)  2885,  (1871)  2764, 
(1881)  2522.— Ord  Sur.,  shs.  103,  94,  102,  1878-81. 

The  presbytery  of  Dornoch  comprehends  the  old 
parishes  of  Assynt,  Clyne,  Creich,  Dornoch,  Golspie, 
Kildonan,  Lairg,  Loth,  and  Rogart,  and  the  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  Stoer.  Pop.  (1871)  16,649,  (1881)  15,998,  of 
whom  314  were  communicants  of  the  Church  of  Scotland 
in  1878. — The  Free  Church  also  has  a  presbytery  of  Dor- 
noch, ^^-ith  churches  at  Assynt,  Clyne,  Creich,  Dornoch, 
Golspie,  Helmsdale,  Lairg,  Rogart,  Rosehall,  and  Stoer, 
and  preaching-stations  at  Kildonan  and  Shinness,  of 
which  the  nine  first  had  together  4059  members  and 
adherents  in  1881. 

Dornoch,  Firth  of,  the  estuary  of  the  river  Oikel. 
Commencing  at  Bonar- Bridge,  at  the  SE  end  of  the  Kyle 
of  Sutherland,  it  extends  9^  miles  east-south-eastward  to 
Meikle  Ferry,  and  thence  13  miles  east-north-eastward  till 
it  merges  with  the  North  Sea  at  a  line  between  Tar  bat 
Ness  and  Brora.  It  has  a  varying  width  of  7i  furlongs 
above  "Wester  Fearn  Point,  2\  furlongs  at  the  Point 
itself,  IJ  mile  below  Easter  Fearn,  3^  furlongs  at  Ard- 
more  Point,  2J  miles  at  Edderton,  5J  furlongs  at  Meikle 
Ferry,  3j  miles  at  Tain,  If  mile  at  the  SE  corner  of 
Dornoch  parish,  and  10^  miles  from  lirora  to  Tarbat 


DOUGALSTON 

Ness.  A  shoal  across  it  3  miles  below  Tain,  called  Geyzen 
Briggs  from  occasioning  a  tumultuous  roar  of  breakers, 
forms  a  great  obstruction  to  navigation,  yet  is  not  so 
continuous  as  to  hinder  vessels,  under  direction  of  a 
pilot,  from  safely  passing.  The  N  side  of  the  firth, 
between  that  bar  and  Meikle  Ferry,  offers  some  har- 
bourage for  small  vessels  in  calm  weather  ;  and  Cambus- 
currie  Bay,  immediately  above  Meikle  Ferry,  forms  an 
excellent  roadstead,  where  vessels  of  considerable  burden 
can  lie  at  anchor,  and  where  good  harbour  accommoda- 
tion could  easily  be  provided.  The  Great  North  Road, 
with  nexus  at  Meikle  Ferry,  was  formerly  the  main  line 
of  communication  between  the  southern  and  the  northern 
shores,  but  always  was  subject  to  delay  at  the  ferry, 
so  that  the  road  round  by  Bonar-Bridge,  though  very 
circuitous,  came  to  be  generally  preferred  ;  and  now  tho 
railway,  consisting  of  the  Highland  line  on  the  S  side 
and  the  Sutherland  line  on  the  N  side,  takes  the  same 
roundabout  route.  The  waters  of  the  firth  abound  in 
shellfish,  cod,  and  haddocks,  but  never  have  been  vigor- 
ously fished. —OrrZ.  Sur.,  shs.  102,  93,  94,  1881-78. 

Domock,  a  village  and  a  coast  parish  of  Annandale, 
Dumfriesshire.  Standing  §  mile  inland,  the  village  has 
a  station  on  the  Glasgow  and  South- Western  railway  14 
miles  NW  of  Carlisle  and  3  E  of  Annan,  under  which  it 
has  a  post  office. 

The  parish,  containing  also  Lowtherton  village,  1  mile 
E  by  N  of  Dornock  village,  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by 
Kirkpatrick-Fleming,  E  by  Gretna,  S  by  the  Solway 
Firth,  and  W  and  NW  by  Annan.  Its  greatest  length, 
from  N  to  S,  is  4^  mUes  ;  it  greatest  breadth  is  2^  mUes ; 
and  its  area  is  5779|  acres,  of  which  1149^  are  foreshore, 
nearly  4  are  water,  and  523  belong  to  the  Robgill  de- 
tached portion,  lying  4  mile  to  the  N  and  surrounded 
by  Kirkpatrick-Fleming  and  Annan.  The  Solway  here 
is  1^  mile  wide  ;  but  its  channel,  barely  J  mile  across, 
may  be  forded  at  low  tide,  by  those  at  least  who  know 
the  perils  of  their  path.  The  shore-line,  2\  miles  long, 
is  low  and  sandy  ;  and  from  it  the  surface  very  gradually 
rises  to  59  feet  at  Muirhouse,  135  near  Stapleton,  200 
beyond  Hallton,  and  265  at  Broadlea  in  the  Robgill 
portion,  whose  NE  border  is  traced  for  7  furlongs  by 
KiRTLE  Water,  the  only  stream  of  any  consequence. 
The  land  is  all  low  ;  and,  excepting  some  40  acres  of 
wood  and  750  either  pastoral  or  waste,  is  all  under  the 
plough.  Neither  coal  nor  limestone  has  been  found, 
but  sandstone  is  plentiful.  The  soU,  in  general,  is  loam 
on  a  clayey  bottom.  The  antiquities  comprise  remains 
of  an  ancient  Caledonian  stone  circle,  traces  of  a  Roman 
military  road,  the  towers  of  RobgUl  and  Stapleton,  and 
several  curious  old  tombstones  in  the  parish  grave3'ard, 
where  are  also  three  sculptured  stones.  Swordwellrig, 
7  furlongs  WNAV  of  the  village,  is  said  to  have  been  the 
scene  in  the  15th  century  of  a  victory  over  the  English, 
in  which  Sir  William  Broun  of  Coalstoun  defeated  and 
slew  Sir  Marmaduke  Langdale  and  Lord  Crosby.  Rob- 
gill, Stapleton,  and  Blackyett  are  the  chief  mansions ; 
and  5  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  5  of  between  £100  and  £500,  3  of  from  £50  to 
£100,  and  3  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Dornock  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Annan  and  s3mod  of  Dumfries  ;  the  living 
is  worth  £330.  The  church,  built  in  1793,  contains 
300  sittings.  A  public  school  and  an  infant  and  female 
school,  with  respective  accommodation  for  86  and  77 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  68  and  43, 
and  grants  of  £55,  4s.  and  £34,  13s.  Valuation  (1882) 
£7177,  16s.  4d.  Pop.  (1801)  788,  (1831)  752,  (1861) 
856,  (1871)  826,  (1881)  814.— OrcZ.  Sur.,  shs.  6,  10, 
1863-64. 

Dorrington.    See  Dirrixgtox. 

Dorrory.     See  Dorart. 

Dorusmore.     See  Ckaignish. 

Dosk,  an  ancient  parish  on  the  W  border  of  Kincardine- 
shire, now  forming  the  south-eastern  portion  of  Edzell. 

Double-Dikes.     See  Stoneuouse. 

Douchfour.     See  Dochfour. 

Dougalston,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  on  the  SE 
border  of  New  Kilpatrick  parish,  Dumbartonshire,  \\ 
mile  ESE  of  Milngavie.     Its  owner,  Robert  Ker,  Esq., 


DOUGLAS 

holds  ISOO  acres,  valued  at  £3575  per  annum.  Doutjal- 
ston  Loch  (4^x1  furl.),  on  the  Stirlin";shire  border, 
contains  an  islet,  and  abounds  in  water  plants,  some  of 
them  of  rare  species. 

Douglas,  a  burn  in  Yarrow  parish,  Selkirkshire,  rising, 
at  an  altitude  of  2000  feet  above  sea-level,  on  Black- 
house  Heights,  contiguous  to  the  Peeblesshire  border, 
and  running  6  miles  east-south-eastward  and  south- 
south-eastward,  till,  2  miles  below  Blackhouse  Tower, 
it  falls  into  Yarrow  Water,  at  a  point  1^  mile  E  by  N 
of  the  foot  of  St  Mary's  Loch.  "With  a  fall  of  1200  feet, 
it  traverses  a  deep  and  gloomy  glen  (hence  its  name 
dubh-qhias,  '  dark  grey '), "and  teems  with  capital  trout 
of  about  h  lb.  weight.— Orrf.  Sur.,  shs.  24,  1(5,  1864. 

Douglas,  a  town  and  a  parish  in  the  Upper  "Ward  of 
Lanarkshire.  The  town  stands  on  the  right  bank  of 
Douglas  "Water,  3i  miles  SS"W  of  Douglas  station  on  a 
branch  of  the  Caledonian,  this  being  7^  miles  SS"W  of 
Lanark,  11  SW  of  Carstairs  Junction,  39^  S"W  of  Edin- 
burgh, and  13:J-  ENE  of  :Muirkirk.  Formerly  a  place  of 
much  political  importance,  a  burgh  of  barony  with  high 
magisterial  powers,  and  a  seat  of  considerable  trade  and 
marketing,  it  has  fallen  into  great  decadence,  and  now 
presents  an  antique  and  irregular  appearance.  Its  streets 
are  narrow,  some  of  the  houses  look  as  if  they  still  be- 
longed to  the  Middle  Ages  ;  and  the  townsfolk,  with  few 
exception  s,  are  weavers,  mechanics,  or  labourers.  A  cotton 
factory,  established  in  1792,  continued  in  operation  only 
a  few  years ;  and  a  connection  with  Glasgow  in  handloom- 
weaving  is  now,  too,  all  but  extinct.  The  town,  never- 
theless, is  still  a  place  of  some  provincial  consideration, 
possesses  a  fair  amount  of  local  business,  and  is  replete 
with  antiquarian  interest.  It  has  a  post  office  under 
Lanark,  mth  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  railway 
telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the  Commercial  and 
Royal  Banks,  7  insurance  agencies,  the  Douglas  Arms 
inn,  gas-works,  the  parish  church,  a  Free  church,  a  U.P. 
church,  a  public  school,  and  fairs  on  the  third  Friday  of 
March  and  October.  The  kirk  of  St  Bride,  founded  in 
the  13th  century,  but  Second  Pointed  in  style,  was  a 
prebend  of  Glasgow  cathedral,  and  seems  to  have  been 
a  large  and  stately  edifice,  now  represented  by  only  a 
small  spire  and  the  choir,  which  latter  was  always  till 
1761  the  burial-place  of  the  Douglas  family.  In  1879-81 
it  underwent  an  extensive  restoration,  the  vault  beneath 
the  High  Altar  being  entirely  renewed  and  much  en- 
larged. The  old  coffins  have  been  removed,  and  in  the 
new  vault  are  now  interred  the  late  Earl  and  Countess  of 
Home.  In  the  centre  of  the  floor  of  the  choir  above  is  a 
beautiful  marble  and  alabaster  monument  of  the  Coun- 
tess, which  presents  a  striking  contrast  to  the  faded  and 
mutilated  effigies  around  it ;  and  the  E  window  is  filled 
with  stained  glass  in  memory  of  the  Earl.  '  Here,'  says 
Sir  "Walter  Scott,  'a  silver  case,  containing  the  dust  of 
what  was  once  the  brave  heart  of  Good  Sir  James,  is  still 
pointed  out;  and  in  the  dilapidated  choir  above  appears, 
though  in  a  sorely  ruinous  state,  the  once  magnificent 
tomb  of  the  warrior  himself  This  monument  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  wantonly  mutilated  and  defaced  by 
a  detachment  of  Cromwell's  troops,  who,  as  was  their 
custom,  converted  the  kirk  of  St  Bride  of  Douglas  into 
a  stable  for  their  horses.  Enough,  however,  remains  to 
identify  the  resting-place  of  the  great  Sir  James.  Tlie 
effigy,  of  dark  stone,  is  cross-legged,  and  in  its  original 
state  must  have  been  not  inferior  in  any  respect  to 
the  best  of  the  same  period  in  Westminster  Abbey.'* 
The  Covenanters,  in  the  times  of  the  persecution,  had 

*  Thus  Sir  Walter,  but  the  minister  of  Douglas,  the  Rev.  W. 
Smith,  writes :  'As  to  tlic  silver  heart-case,  I  am  not  sure.  There 
are  two  enclosed  in  a  nindern  box ;  but  they  are  neglected,  as  it  is 
not  kno\VTi  whose  hearts  they  are;  and  as  to  beinj,'  silver,  most 
people  would  say  they  were  lead.  Last  century  the  school  stood 
in  the  churchyard.  There  was  no  door  on  the  ciioir,  and  the  boys 
had  full  liberty  to  do  as  they  liked,  which  liberty  they  undoubtedly 
took.  So  that  the  mutilation  of  statues  attributed  to  Cromwell 
was  performed  by  inferior  destructionists.  The  lead  cases  in  the 
BhajH;  of  hearts  are  much  broken,  havinj,'  had  the  same  treatment 
as  the  monuments.  I  may  mention  that,  though  the  body  of  the 
Good  Sir  James  was  brought  to  Douglas  according  to  tradition  or 
history,  no  bones  were  found  when  recently  the  8i)ace  under  the 
stone  effl)^  was  opened.' 
364 


DOUGLAS  CASTLE 

close  connection  with  the  town,  being  better  sheltered 
in  its  neighbourhood  than  in  most  other  districts,  and 
in  April  1689  the  Caraeronian  regiment  was  here  em- 
bodied in  defence  of  the  Protestant  government  of 
William  and  Mary,  under  the  command  of  the  eldest 
son  of  the  second  Marquis  of  Douglas.  Pop.  (1841) 
1313,  (1861)  1426,  (1871)  1371,  (1881)  1262. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  of  Uddington 
and  Rigside,  2J  and  4  miles  NE  of  the  town,  as  likewise 
Inches  station,  6f  miles  SW  of  Douglas  station,  is 
bounded  NW  by  Lesmahagow,  NE  by  Carmichael,  E  by 
Wiston-Roberton,  SE  and  S  by  Crawfordjohn,  and  W 
by  Muirkirk  in  Ayrshire.  Its  xitmost  length  is  11| 
miles  from  NE  to  SW,  viz.,  from  the  confluence  of 
Poniel  and  Douglas  AVaters  to  Cairntable  ;  its  utmost 
breadth,  from  NW  to  SE,  is  6J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is 
34,317^  acres,  of  which  180|  are  water.  Douglas 
AVater,  rising  1500  feet  above  sea-level,  in  the  south- 
western corner  of  the  parish,  winds  16^  miles  north- 
eastward through  all  the  interior,  on  the  way  receiving 
]\Ionks  and  Kennox  Waters,  Glespin  and  Parkhall  Burns, 
and  Poniel  Water,  which  last,  running  9J  miles  east- 
north-eastward,  traces  nearly  all  the  boundary  with 
Lesmahagow  ;  whilst  Duneaton  Water  flows  6j  miles 
east-by-southward,  along  all  the  southern  border,  on  its 
way  to  the  Clyde.  The  surface,  declines  to  less  than 
600  feet  above  sea-level  at  the  north-eastern  corner, 
where  Douglas  Water  passes  from  the  parish ;  and 
elevations  to  the  left  or  N  of  its  course,  from  NE  to 
SAV,  are  Poniel  Hill  (842  feet),  Arknev  Hill  (1225), 
AVindrow  Hill  (1297),  Hagshaw  Hifl  (1540),  Shiel  Hill 
(1122),  *Hareshaw  Hill  (1527),  *Brack  Hill(,1306),  and 
•Little  Cairntable  (1693),  asterisks  marking  those  sum- 
mits that  culminate  on  the  Ayrshire  boi'der.  To  the 
right  or  S  of  the  Douglas  rise  Robert  Law  (1329),  Scaur 
Hill  (1249),  Parkhead  Hill  (1241),  Pagie  Hill  (1273), 
AucHENSAUGii  Hill  (1286),  PinkstoneRig  (1255),  Hart- 
wood  Hill  (1311),  Douglas  Rig  (1535),  and  Cairntable 
(1944).  The  rocks  of  the  valley  belong  to  the  Carboni- 
ferous formation,  and  comprise  very  fine  coal  (including 
valuable  gas  coal),  some  ironstone,  limestone,  and  beau- 
tiful white  sandstone.  The  coal  is  extensively  mined,  both 
for  home  use  and  for  exportation,  and  the  limestone  and 
sandstone  are  quarried.  There  are  several  pretty  strong 
chalybeate  springs.  The  soil  in  most  parts  of  the  strath 
is  a  free  black  mould,  in  some  is  lighter  and  gravell}', 
and  in  others  is  clay ;  on  the  moors  it  is  mostlj'  humus  or 
moss,  but  even  here  in  places  a  deep  loam.  Fully  three- 
sevenths  of  the  rental  are  from  arable  land,  nearly 
one-half  is  from  pasture,  and  the  rest  is  from  minerals. 
Cairns  are  on  Auchensaugh  and  Kiikton  hills  ;  and  a 
large  one,  found  to  contain  a  sarcophagus,  stood  formerly 
on  Poniel  farm.  Ancient  churches  or  chajicls  were  at 
Andershaw,  Glenlaggart,  Parishholm,  and  Chapel  Hill. 
The  chief  residences  are  Douglas  Ca.stlk,  Carmacoup, 
Springhill,  and  Crossl)urn  ;  and  2  proprietors,  besides 
the  Earl  of  Home,  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500 
and  upwards,  2  of  between  £100  and  £500,  7  of  from 
£50  to  £100,  and  17  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Douglas  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Lanark  and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ; 
the  living  is  worth  £471.  Three  new  public  schools — 
Douglas,  Rigside,  and  Stablestone — with  respective  ac- 
commodation for  250,  130,  and  130  children,  had  (1881) 
an  average  attendance  of  161,  96,  and  82,  and  grants 
of  £144,  lis. ,  £89,  Is. ,  and  £87,  10s.  Valuation  (1860) 
£12,836,  (1882)  £21,545,  8s.  Pop.  (1801)  1730,  (1831) 
2542,  (1861)  2490,  (1871)  2624,  (1881)  26n.—Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  23,  15,  1865-64. 

Douglas  Castle,  an  ancient  ruin  and  a  modern  seat 
in  Douglas  parish,  Lanarkshire,  near  the  right  bank  of 
Douglas  AVater,  |  mile  NNE  of  Douglas  town.  The 
Douglases,  '  whose  coronet  so  often  counterpoised  the 
crown,'  and  who  so  closely  linked  the  district  of  Dou- 
glasdale  to  Scottish  story,  'were,'  says  Hill  liurton, 
'  children  of  the  soil,  who  could  not  be  traced  back 
to  the  race  of  the  enemy  or  stranger,  as,  whatever 
may  have  been  their  actual  origin,  they  were  known 
as  rooted  in  Scotland  at  the  time  when  the  Norman 
adventurers  crowded  in.'     The  first  great  man  of  the 


DOUGLAS  CASTLE 

house  was  the  Good  Sir  James,  the  friend  and  com- 
panion of  Robert  the  Bruce  in  his  valorous  efforts  to 
achieve  the  independence  of  Scotland.  His  o\vn  castle 
of  Douglas  had  been  taken  and  garrisoned  by  the  troops 
of  Edward  I. ;  and  he  resolved  to  recapture  it,  and  at  the 
same  time  inflict  signal  chastisement  on  the  intruders. 
Tradition  tells  us  that  a  beautiful  English  maiden,  the 
Lady  Augiista  de  Berkely,  had  replied  to  her  numerous 
suitors  that  her  hand  should  be  given  to  him  who  should 
have  the  courage  and  ability  to  hold  the  perilous  castle 
of  Douglas  for  a  year  and  a  day ;  and  Sir  John  de  Walton, 
auxiousto  win  by  his  valour  so  lovely  aprize,  with  Edward's 
consent,  undertook  the  defence  of  the  castle.  For 
several  months  he  discharged  his  duty  with  honour  and 
bravery,  and  the  lady  now  deeming  his  probation  accom- 
plished, and  not  un-^-illing  perhaps  to  unite  her  fortunes 
to  one  who  had  proved  himself  a  true  and  valiant  knight, 
wrote  him  a  letter  of  recall.  By  this  time,  however,  he 
had  received  a  defiance  from  Douglas,  who  declared 
that,  for  all  Sir  John's  valour,  bravery,  and  vigilance, 
the  castle  should  be  his  own  by  the  Palm  Sunday  of 
1307  ;  and  De  Walton  deemed  it  a  point  of  honour  to 
keep  possession  till  the  threatened  day  should  be  past. 
On  the  day  named  Douglas,  assembling  his  followers, 
assailed  the  English  as  they  returned  from  the  church, 
and,  having  overpowered  them,  took  the  castle.  Sir 
John  de  AValton  was  slain  in  the  conflict,  and  the  letter 
of  his  lady-love,  being  found  on  his  person,  afflicted  the 
generous  and  good  Sir  James  'full  sorely.'  The  account 
of  this  captui'e  of  the  Castle  of  Douglas,  taken  from 
Barbour's  Bncs  by  Hume  of  Godscroft,  is  somewhat 
different.  '  The  manner  of  his  taking  it  is  said  to  have 
beene  thus — Sir  James,  taking  with  him  only  two  of  his 
servants,  went  to  Thomas  Dickson,  of  whom  he  was  re- 
ceived with  tears,  after  he  had  I'evealed  himself  to  him,  for 
the  good  old  man  knew  him  not  at  first,  being  in  mean  and 
homely  apparel.  There  he  kept  him  secretly,  in  a  quiet 
chamber,  and  brought  unto  him  such  as  had  been  trusty 
servants  to  his  father,  not  all  at  once,  but  apart,  by  one 
and  one,  for  fear  of  discoverie.  Their  advice  was,  that 
on  Palm  Sunday,  when  the  English  would  come  forth 
to  the  church,  and  his  partners  were  conveened,  that 
then  he  should  give  the  word,  and  cry  "the  Douglas 
slogan,"  and  presently  set  upon  them  that  should  happen 
to  be  there,  who  being  despatched  the  castle  might  be 
taken  easilj-.  This  being  concluded,  and  they  come,  as 
soon  as  the  English  were  entred  into  the  church  with 
palms  in  their  hands  (according  to  the  custom  of  that 
day),  little  suspecting  or  fearing  any  such  thing,  Sir 
James,  according  to  their  appointment,  cryed  too  soon, 
"A  Douglas,  a  Douglas!"  which  being  heard  in  the 
church  (this  was  St  Bride's  church  of  Douglas),  Thomas 
Dickson,  supposing  he  had  beene  hard  at  hand,  drew 
out  his  sword  and  ran  upon  them,  having  none  to  second 
him  but  another  man,  so  that,  oppressed  by  the  number 
of  his  enemies,  he  was  beaten  downe  and  slaine.  In  the 
meantime,  Sir  James  being  come,  the  English  that  were 
in  the  chancel  kept  off  the  Scots,  and  having  the  advan- 
tage of  the  strait  and  narrow  entrie,  defended  themselyes 
manfully.  But  Sir  James,  encouraging  his  men,  not  so 
much  by  words  as  by  deeds  and  good  example,  and 
having  slain  the  boldest  resisters,  prevailed  at  last,  and 
entring  the  place,  slew  some  twenty-six  of  their  number, 
and  tooke  the  rest,  about  ten  or  twelve  persons,  intend- 
ing by  them  to  get  the  castle  upon  composition,  or  to 
enter  with  them  when  the  gates  should  be  opened  to 
let  them  in.  But  it  needed  not,  for  they  of  the  castle 
were  so  secure  that  there  was  none  left  to  keep  it,  save 
the  porter  and  the  cookc,  who  knowing  nothing  of  what 
had  hapned  at  the  church,  which  stood  a  large  quarter 
of  a  mile  from  thence,  had  left  the  gate  wide  open,  the 
porter  standing  without,  and  the  cooke  dressing  the 
dinner  Avithin.  They  entred  without  resistance,  and 
meat  being  ready,  and  the  cloth  laid,  they  shut  the  gates 
and  took  their  refection  at  good  leisure.  Now  that  he 
had  gotten  the  castle  into  his  hands,  considering  with 
himself  (as  he  was  a  man  no  lesse  advised  than  valiant) 
that  it  was  hard  for  him  to  keep  it,  the  English  being 
as  yet  the  stronger  in  that  countrey,  who  if  they  should 


DOUGLAS  CASTLE 

besiege  him,  he  knewe  of  no  rcliefe,  he  thought  it  better 
to  carry  away  such  things  as  be  most  easily  transported, 
gold,  silver,  and  apparell,  with  ammunition  and  armour, 
whereof  he  had  greatest  use  and  need,  and  to  destroy 
the  rest  of  the  provision,  together  with  the  castle  itseife, 
than  to  diminish  the  number  of  his  followers  there 
where  it  could  do  no  good.  And  so  he  caused  carry  the 
meale  and  meat,  and  other  comes  and  grain  into  the 
cellar,  and  laid  all  together  in  one  heape :  then  he  took 
the  prisoners  and  slew  them,  to  revenge  the  death  of  his 
trustie  and  valiant  servant,  Thomas  Dickson,  mingling 
the  victuals  with  their  bloud,  and  burying  their  carkasses 
in  the  heap  of  come :  after  that  he  struck  out  the  heads 
of  the  barells,  and  puncheons,  and  let  the  drink  runn 
through  all ;  and  then  he  cast  the  carkasses  of  dead 
horses  and  other  carrion  amongst  it,  throwing  the  salt 
above  all,  so  to  make  all  together  unuseful  to  the  enemie ; 
and  this  cellar  is  called  j-et  the  Douglas  lairder.  Last 
of  all  he  set  the  house  on  fire,  and  burnt  all  the  timber, 
and  what  else  the  fire  could  overcome,  leaving  nothing 
but  the  scorched  walls  behind  him.' 

In  1313,  Sir  James  took  the  castle  of  Roxburgh,  and 
in  the  following  year  commanded  the  centre  of  the 
Scottish  van  at  Baxnockburx.  In  1317  he  defeated 
the  English  under  the  Earl  of  Arundel ;  and  in  1319, 
in  conjunction  with  Randolph,  Earl  of  Moray,  he 
entered  England  by  the  west  marches  with  1500 
men,  routed  the  English  under  the  Archbishop  of  York 
at  the  so-called  Chapter  of  Mitton,  and,  eluding  Edward 
II.,  returned  with  honour  to  Scotland.  When  Robert 
the  Bruce  was  on  his  deathbed,  in  1329,  he  sent  for  his 
true  friend  and  companion  in  arms  the  Good  Sir  James, 
and  requested  him,  that  so  soon  as  his  sjiirit  had 
departed  to  Him  who  gave  it,  he  should  take  his  heart 
and  '  bear  it  in  battle  against  the  Saracens. '  Douglas 
resolved  to  carry  the  request  of  the  dying  king  into 
execution,  and  for  this  purpose  obtained  a  passport 
from  Edward  III.,  dated  1  Sept.  1329.  He  set  sailin 
the  following  year  w^th  the  heart  of  his  honoured 
master,  accompanied  by  a  splendid  retinue.  Having 
anchored  off  Sluys,  he  was  informed  that  Alphonso  XL, 
the  King  of  Leon  and  Castile,  was  engaged  in  hostilities 
in  Grenada  with  the  Moorish  commander  Osmj'n  ;  and 
this  determined  him  to  pass  into  Spain,  and  assist  the 
Christians  to  combat  the  Saracens.  Douglas  and  his 
friends  were  warmly  received  by  Alphonso,  and  encoun- 
tering the  iloslems  at  Theba,  on  the  frontiers  of  Anda- 
lusia, on  Aug.  25,  1330,  put  them  to  rout.  Douglas 
eagerly  followed  in  the  pursuit,  and,  taking  the  casket 
which  contained  the  heart  of  Ijruce,  he  flung  it  before 
him,  exclaiming,  '  Onward,  as  thou  wert  wont,  thou 
noble  heart,  Douglas  will  follow  thee  ! '  The  Saracens 
rallied,  and  the  Good  Sir  James  was  slain.  His  com- 
panions found  his  body  upon  the  field  along  with  the 
casket,  and  sorrowfully  bore  them  back  to  Scotland, 
where  the  heart  of  the  Bruce  was  deposited  at  Melrose, 
though  his  body  was  interred  in  the  royal  tomb  at  Dun- 
fermline, whilst  Sir  James  was  buried  at  Douglas,  and 
a  monument  erected  to  him  by  his  brother  Archibald. 
The  old  poet  Barbour,  after  reciting  the  circumstances 
of  Sir  James's  fall  in  Spain,  tells  how — 

'  Quhen  his  men  langf  had  mad  murnyn, 
Thai  debowlyt  him,  and  syne 
Gert  scher  him  swa,  that  myclit  be  tane 
The  flescli  all  haly  fra  the  bane, 
And  the  carioune  thar  in  haly  place 
Erdyt,  « ith  rycht  gret  worschi)),  was. 
The  bariys  liave  thai  with  them  tane 
And  syne  ar  to  thair  sc!iii>i)is  yane 
Syne  towart  Scotland  held  thair  way, 
And  thar  ar  cummyn  in  full  g-ret  hy 
And  the  bauys  honorahilly 
In  till  the  kirk  off  Doujrlas  war 
Erdyt,  with  dull  and  mekill  car. 
Schyr  Archebald  has  sune  jrert  syn 
Off  alaJbastre,  baith  fair  and  fyue, 
Or  save  a  tumbe  sa  richJy 
As  it  bchowyt  to  swa  worth j.' 

Sir  James's  nephew  was  raised  to  the  earldom  of  Douglas 
in  1357  by  David  II.;  and  during  this  reign  and  the 
two  which  succeeded  the  house  of  Douglas  attained  a 
degree  of  power  scarcely  inferior  to  that  of  royalty  itself; 

365 


DOUGLAS  CASTLE 

so  that,  as  has  been  remarked  by  an  old  liistorian,  it 
became  a  saying  that  '  nae  man  was  safe  in  the  country, 
unless  he  were  either  a  Douglas  or  a  Douglas  man.'  The 
Earl  went  abroad  with  a  train  of  2000  men,  kept  a  sort 
of  court,  and  even  created  knights.  In  1424,  Archibald, 
the  fourth  Earl,  became  possessed  of  the  dukedom  of 
Touraine,  for  services  rendered  to  Charles  YII.  of  France. 
"William,  the  sixth  Earl,  a  stripling  not  yet  15,  succeeded 
to  the  family  power  at  a  stage  when  it  had  attained  a 
most  formidable  height.  Their  estates  in  Galloway — 
where  they  possessed  the  stronghold  of  Threave — and 
those  of  Annaudale  and  Douglas,  comprised  two-thirds 
of  Scotland  to  the  S  of  Edinburgh  ;  the  people  viewed 
them  as  the  champions  of  Scotland,  especially  after  the 
victor}'  of  Otterbum,  and  since  single-handed  they  had 
won  back  the  border  lauds  ceded  to  England  by  Edward 
Baliol ;  lastly,  through  the  marriage  of  the  Good  Sir 
James's  brother  and  heir  with  Domagilla,  the  Red 
Comyn's  sister  and  Baliol's  niece,  the  Douglases  could 
found  a  most  plausible  claim  to  the  Scottish  tlirone,  and, 
but  for  Baliol's  unpopularity,  might  have  contested  the 
accession  of  Robert  II.  It  was  at  this  time,  however, 
the  policy  of  Crichton — one  of  the  ablest  of  those  who 
had  the  direction  of  affairs  during  the  minority  of  James 
II. — to  humble  the  overgrown  power  of  the  nobles  ;  and 
accordingly  Earl  William,  having  been  decoyed  into  the 
castle  of  Edinburgh,  was  subjected  to  a  mock  trial  for 
treason,  and  beheaded  24  Nov.  1440.  '  This  noble 
youth  and  his  brother  and  a  few  other  principal  friends, ' 
says  Hume  of  Godscroft,  'on  their  arrival  in  Edinburgh, 
went  directly  to  the  castle,  being  led  as  it  were  and 
drawn  by  a  fatal  destiny,  and  so  came  in  the  power  of 
their  deadly  enemies  and  feigned  friends.  At  the  very 
instant  comes  the  Governor,  as  was  before  appointed 
betwixt  them,  to  play  his  part  of  the  tragedy,  and  both 
he  and  the  chancellor  might  be  alike  embarked  in  the 
action,  and  bear  the  envy  of  so  ugly  a  fact,  that  the 
weight  thereof  might  not  be  on  one  alone.  Yet  to  play 
out  their  treacherous  parts,  they  welcome  him  most 
courteously,  set  him  to  dinner  with  the  king  at  the 
same  table,  feast  him  royally,  entertain  him  cheerfully, 
and  that  for  a  long  time.  At  last,  about  the  end  of 
dinner,  they  compass  him  about  with  armed  men,  and 
cause  present  a  bull's  head  before  him  on  the  board. 
The  bull's  head  was  in  those  days  a  token  of  death,  say 
our  histories  ;  but  how  it  hath  come  in  use  to  be  taken 
and  signify,  neither  do  they  nor  any  else  tell  us ;  neither 
is  it  to  be  found,  that  I  remember,  anywhere  in  history, 
save  in  this  one  place  ;  neither  can  we  conjecture  what 
affinity  it  can  have  therewith,  unless  to  exprobrate  gross- 
ness,  according  to  the  French  and  our  own  reproaching 
dull  and  gross  wits,  by  calling  him  calfs-head  {tete 
de  veau)  but  not  bull's  head.  The  young  nobleman, 
either  understanding  the  sign  as  an  ordinary  thing,  or 
astonished  with  it  as  an  uncouth  thing,  upon  the  sight 
of  the  bull's  head,  offering  to  rise,  was  laid  hold  of  by 
their  armed  men,  in  the  king's  presence,  at  the  king's 
table,  which  should  have  been  a  sanctuary  to  him.  And 
so  without  regard  of  king,  or  any  duty,  and  mthont  any 
further  process,  without  order,  assize,  or  jury,  ^vithout 
law,  no  crime  objected,  he  not  being  convicted  at  all,  a 
young  man  of  that  age,  that  was  not  liable  to  the  law  in 
reganl  of  his  youth,  a  nobleman  of  that  place,  a  worthy 
young  gentleman  of  such  expectation,  a  guest  of  that 
acceptation,  one  who  had  reposed  upon  their  credit,  who 
had  committed  himself  to  them,  a  friend  in  mind,  who 
looked  for  friendship,  to  whom  all  friendship  was  pro- 
mised, against  duty,  law,  friendship,  faith,  honesty, 
humanity,  hospitality,  against  nature,  against  human 
society,  against  God's  law,  against  man's  law,  and  the 
law  of  nature,  is  cruelly  executed  and  put  to  death. 
David  Douglas,  his  younger  brother,  was  also  put  to 
death  with  him,  and  Malcolm  Fleming  of  Cumbernauld  ; 
they  were  all  three  beheaded  in  the  back  court  of  the 
castle  that  lieth  to  the  west.' 

'  When  E^rl  Douplas  to  the  Castle  came 
The  courts  they  were  fu"  Krim  to  see ; 
And  he  liked  na  the  feast  aa  they  sat  at  dine, 
The  tables  were  gerved  sac  oilenUie. 
866 


DOUGLAS  CASTLE 

'  And  full  twenty  feet  fro  the  table  he  sprang 
When  the  grislj'  bull's  head  rnet  his  e'e. 
But  the  Crichtouns  a"  cam'  troupin  in, 
An'  he  coudna  fight  an'  wadna  flie. 

'  O,  when  the  news  to  Hermitage  came, 
The  Douglasses  were  brim  and  wud ; 
They  swore  to  set  Embro'  in  a  bleeze, 
An'  slochen't  wi'  auld  Crichtouu's  blood.' 

The  dukedom  of  Touraine  reverted  to  the  French  king ; 
but,  after  three  years  of  depressed  fortune,  the  Douglases 
rose  to  a  greater  degree  of  power  than  ever  in  the 
person  of  "William,  the  eighth  Earl,  who,  professing  to 
be  in  favour  with  the  young  king,  James  II. ,  appointed 
himself  Lieutenant-General  of  the  kingdom.  Having 
fallen,  however,  into  partial  disgrace,  he  went  abroad 
(1450),  and  his  castle  of  Douglas  was  demolished  during 
his  a'bsence  by  order  of  the  king,  on  account  of  his 
vassals'  insolence.  On  the  return  of  the  Earl,  he  made 
submission  to  the  king,  a  submission  never  meant  to  be 
sincere.  He  sought  to  assassinate  Crichton  the  chancel- 
lor, hanged  Herries  of  Terregles  in  despite  of  the  king's 
mandate  to  the  contrary,  and  in  obedience  to  a  royal 
warrant  delivered  up  the  Tutor  of  Bombie — headless. 
By  leaguing,  moreover,  with  the  Earls  of  Crawford  and 
Ross,  he  united  against  his  sovereign  almost  one-half  of 
the  kingdom.  But  his  credulity  led  him  into  the  selfsame 
snare  that  had  proved  fatal  to  the  former  Earl.  Relying 
on  the  promise  of  the  king,  who  had  now  attained  to  the 
years  of  manhood,  and  having  obtained  a  safe-conduct 
under  the  great  seal,  he  ventured  to  meet  him  in  Stirling 
Castle,  13  Jan.  1452.  James  urged  him  to  dissolve  the 
Bands,  the  Earl  refused.  'If  you  will  not,'  said  the  en- 
raged monarch,  drawing  his  dagger,  '  then  this  shall ! ' 
and  stabbed  him  to  the  heart.  1  he  Earl's  four  brothers 
and  vassals  ran  to  arms  with  the  utmost  furj' ;  and, 
dragging  the  safe-conduct,  which  the  king  had  gi'anted 
and  \'iolated,  at  a  horse's  tail,  they  marched  to  Stirling, 
burned  the  town,  and  threatened  to  besiege  the  castle. 
An  accommodation  ensued,  on  what  terms  is  not  known ; 
but  the  king's  jealousy,  and  the  new  Earl's  power  and 
resentment,  prevented  its  long  continuance.  Both 
took  the  field,  and  met  near  Abercorn  (1454),  at 
the  head  of  their  armies.  That  of  the  Earl,  composed 
chiefly  of  Borderers,  was  far  superior  to  the  king's, 
in  both  numbers  and  valour  ;  and  a  single  battle  must 
in  all  probability  have  decided  whether  the  house  of 
Stewart  or  the  house  of  Douglas  was  henceforth  to  sit 
upon  the  throne  of  Scotland.  But  while  his  troops  im- 
patiently expected  the  signal  to  engage,  the  Earl  ordered 
them  to  retire  to  their  camp  ;  and  Sir  James  Hamilton 
of  Cadzow,  in  whom  he  placed  the  greatest  confidence, 
convinced  of  his  lack  of  genius  to  improve  an  oppor- 
tunity, or  of  his  want  of  courage  to  seize  a  crown, 
deserted  him  that  very  night.  This  example  was  fol- 
lowed b}'  manj' ;  and  the  Earl,  despised  or  forsaken  by 
all,  was  soon  driven  out  of  the  kingdom,  and  obliged  to 
depend  for  his  subsistence  on  the  King  of  England. 
The  overgrown  strength  of  this  family  was  destroyed  in 
1455  ;  and  the  Earl,  after  enduring  many  vicissitudes, 
retired  in  his  old  age  to  Lindores  Abbey  in  Fife,  and 
died  there  in  1488. 

Tlie  title  of  Earl  of  Douglas,  of  this  the  first  branch 
of  the  family,  existed  for  98  years,  giving  an  average  of 
11  years  to  each  possessor.  The  lands  of  the  family 
reverted  to  the  Crown,  but  shortly  afterwards  were 
bestowed  on  the  Earl  of  Angus,  the  head  of  a  younger 
branch  of  the  old  family,  descended  from  George  Dou- 
glas, the  only  son  of  William,  first  Earl  of  Douglas,  by 
his  third  Avife,  Margaret,  Countess  of  Angus,  who  in 
1389,  on  his  mother's  resignation  of  her  right,  received 
her  title.  This  family  assisted  in  the  destruction  of  the 
parent-house  ;  and  it  became  a  saying,  in  allusion  to 
the  complexion  of  the  two  races,  that  the  red  Douglas 
had  put  down  the  black.  Among  its  members  were 
several  who  figured  prominently  in  Scottish  story, 
such  as  Archibald,  fifth  Earl,  known  by  the  soulriquct 
of  'Bell-the-Cat ;'  and  Archibald,  sixtli  Earl,  who, marry- 
ing Margaret  of  England,  widow  of  James  IV.,  was 
grandfather  of  the  unfortunate  Henry  Lord  Darnley, 
the  husband  of  Queen  JIary  and  father  of  James  VI. 


DOUGLAS  CASTLE 


DOULAS 


This  Archibald,  during  the  minority  of  his  step-son 
James  V. ,  had  all  the  authority  of  a  regent.  William, 
eleventh  Earl  of  Angus,  was  raised  to  the  marquisate  of 
Douglas,  in  1633,  by  Charles  L  This  nobleman  was  a 
Catholic  and  a  royalist,  and  inclined  to  hold  out  his 
castle  against  the  Covenanters,  in  favour  of  the  king ; 
but  he  was  surprised  by  them,  and  the  castle  taken 
(1639).  He  was  one  of  the  best  of  the  family,  and  kept 
up  to  its  fullest  extent  the  olden  princely  Scottish  hospi- 
tality. The  king  constituted  him  his  lieutenant  on  the 
Borders,  and  he  joined  Montrose  after  his  victory  at 
Kilsyth  (1645),  escaped  from  the  rout  at  the  battle  of 
Philiphaugh,  and  soon  after  made  terms  with  the  ruling 
powers.  The  first  Jlarquis  of  Douglas  was  the  father 
of  three  peers  of  different  titles — Archibald,  his  eldest 
son,  who  succeeded  him  as  second  Marquis  ;  William, 
his  eldest  son  by  a  second  marriage,  who  became  third 
Duke  of  Hamilton  ;  and  George,  his  second  son,  by  the 
same  marriage,  who  was  created  Earl  of  Dumbarton. 
Archibald,  tliird  Marquis,  succeeded  in  1700,  and  was 
created  Duke  of  Douglas  in  1703.  In  the  '15  he  adhered 
to  the  ruling  family  of  Hanover,  and  fought  as  a  volun- 
teer in  the  battle  of  Sheriffmuir.  He  died  childless  at 
Queensberry  House,  Edinburgh,  in  1761,  when  the  ducal 
title  became  extinct,  the  Marquisate  of  Douglas  devolv- 
ing on  the  Duke  of  Hamilton,  on  account  of  his  descent 
from  the  first  Marquis.  The  real  and  personal  estate 
of  the  Duke  of  Douglas  was  inherited  by  his  nephew, 
Archibald  Stewart,  Esq. ,  who  assumed  the  surname  of 
Douglas,  and  in  1790  was  created  Baron  Douglas  of 
Douglas — a  title  re-granted  in  1875  to  the  eleventh  Earl 
of  Home  (1799-18S1),  who  had  married  the  grand- 
daughter of  the  above-named  Archibald  Stewart,  and 
now  borne  by  his  son  and  successor,  Chs.  Alex.  Douglas 
Home  (b.  1834),  the  present  Earl,  who  holds  in  Lanark- 
shire 61,943  acres,  valued  at  £24,764  per  annum,  besides 
a  large  and  increasing  revenue  from  minerals.  (See  also 
BoTHWELL  and  The  Hirsel.) 

Such  are  some  of  the  memories  of  this  time-worn 
ruin,  interesting  also  as  the  'Castle  Dangerous'  of  Sir 
Walter  Scott's  last  romance,  and  the  last  place  to  which 
he  made  a  pilgrimage  in  Scotland,  His  preface,  trans- 
mitted from  Naples  in  1832,  contains  the  following 
passage : — '  The  author,  before  he  had  made  much  pro- 
gress in  this,  probably  the  last  of  his  novels,  undertook 
a  jom-ney  to  Douglasdale,  for  the  purpose  of  examining 
the  remains  of  the  famous  castle,  the  Kirk  of  St  Bride  of 
Douglas,  the  patron-saint  of  that  great  family,  and  the 
various  localities  alluded  to  by  Godscroft,  in  his  account 
of  the  early  adventures  of  Good  Sir  James.  But  though 
he  was  fortunate  enough  to  find  a  zealous  and  well- 
infarmed  cicerone  in  Mr  Thomas  Haddow,  and  had 
every  assistance  from  the  kindness  of  Mr  Alexander 
Finlay,  the  resident  chamberlain  of  his  friend  Lord 
Douglas,  the  state  of  his  health  at  the  time  was  so  feeble 
that  he  found  himself  incapable  of  pursuing  his  re- 
searches, as  in  better  days  he  would  have  delighted  to 
do,  and  was  obliged  to  be  contented  with  such  a  cursory 
view  of  scenes,  in  themselves  most  interesting,  as  could 
be  snatched  in  a  single  morning,  when  any  bodily 
exertion  was  painful.  Mr  Haddow  was  attentive  enough 
to  forward  subsequently  some  notes  on  the  points  which 
the  author  had  seemed  desirous  of  investigating  ;  but 
these  did  not  reach  him  until,  being  obliged  to  prepare 
matters  for  a  foreign  excursion  in  quest  of  health  and 
strength,  he  had  been  compelled  to  bring  his  work,  such 
as  it  is,  to  a  conclusion.  The  remains  of  the  old  castle 
of  Douglas  are  inconsiderable.  They  consist,  indeed,  of 
but  one  ruined  tower,  standing  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  modem  mansion,  which  itself  is  only  one  wing  of 
the  design  on  which  the  Duke  of»Douglas  meant  to 
reconstruct  the  edifice,  after  its  last  accidental  destruc- 
tion by  fire.  His  grace  had  kept  in  view  the  ancient 
prophecy  that,  as  often  as  Douglas  Castle  might  be 
destroyed  it  should  rise  again  in  enlarged  dimensions 
and  improved  splendour,  and  projected  a  pile  of  build- 
ing, which,  if  it  had  been  completed,  would  have  much 
exceeded  any  nobleman's  residence  then  existing  in 
Scotland  ;  as,  indeed,  what  has  been  finished,  amounting 


to  about  one-eighth  of  the  plan,  is  sufficiently  extensive 
for  the  accommodation  of  a  large  establishment,  and 
contains  some  apartments  the  extent  of  which  is  mag- 
nificent. The  situation  is  commanding ;  and  though 
the  Duke's  successors  have  allowed  the  mansion  to 
continue  as  he  left  it,  great  expense  has  been  lavished 
on  the  environs,  which  now  present  a  vast  sweep  of 
riclily  undulated  woodland  when  viewed  from  the 
Cairntable  mountains,  repeatedly  mentioned  as  the 
favourite  retreat  of  the  great  ancestor  of  the  family  in 
the  days  of  his  hardships  and  persecution.'  See  David 
Hume  of  Godscroft,  History  of  the  House  and  Puice  of 
Douglas  and  Angus  (1644 ;  new  ed.  by  Ruddiman,  2 
vols.  1743). 
Douglasdale.  See  Douglas  Water. 
Douglas-Mill,  a  quondam  inn  (well  known  in  old 
coaching  days)  in  Douglas  parish,  Lanarkshire,  2^  miles 
NE  of  Douglas  town.  Coleridge  and  Wordsworth  and 
his  sister  Dorothy  dined  here  20  Aug.  1803. 

Douglas-Park,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Bothwell 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  South  Calder 
Water,  If  mile  E  of  Bothwell  village. 

Douglastown,  a  village  in  Kinnettles  parish,  Forfar- 
shire, on  the  right  bank  of  Arity  Water,  at  the  western 
verge  of  the  parish,  3J  miles  SW  of  Forfar,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  office.  At  it  stand  the  handsome  new 
parish  school  and  a  large  flax-spinning  mill,  founded, 
like  the  village,  in  1792. 

Douglas  Water,  a  burn  of  Arrochar  and  Luss  parishes, 
Dumbartonshire,  formed  by  two  head-streams,  within  f 
mile  of  Loch  Long,  and  running  4|  mUes  east-by-south- 
ward, chiefly  along  the  mutual  boundary  of  the  two 
parishes,  to  Loch  Lomond  at  Inveruglas,  opposite 
Rowardennan.  Its  basin  is  a  grand  glen,  flanked  on  the 
N  side  by  Tullich  Hill  (2075  feet),  Ben  Vreac  (2233), 
and  Stob  Gobhlach  (1413),  and  on  the  S  by  Doune  Hill 
(2409),  Mid  Hill  (2149),  and  Ben  Dubh  (2106).— Or(«. 
Sur.,  sh.  38,  1871. 

Douglas  Water,  a  burn  in  Inverary  parish,  Argyll- 
shire, issuing  from  Loch  Dubh-ghlas  (4  x  §  furl. ;  1050 
feet),  and  curving  6  J  miles  eastward  to  Loch  Fyne,  at  a 
point  2f  miles  SSW  of  Inverary  town.  It  contains 
salmon,  sea-trout,  and  yellow  trout.  A  section  of  rock 
in  its  channel,  100  feet  high,  shows  alternate  strata  of 
mica  slate  and  limestone. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  37,  1876. 

Douglas  Water,  a  stream  of  SW  Lanarkshire,  rising, 
1500  feet  above  sea-level,  between  Cairntable  (1944  feet) 
and  Little  Cairntable  (1693),  at  the  SW  corner  of 
Douglas  parish,  within  a  furlong  of  the  Ayrshire  border. 
Thence  it  winds  16^  miles  north-eastward  through 
Douglas  parish,  and  3|  miles  north-north-eastward  along 
the  mutual  boundary  of  Carmichael  and  Lesmahagow 
parishes,  till,  after  a  total  descent  of  fully  900  feet,  it 
falls  into  the  Clyde  at  a  point  nearly  1|  mile  above 
Bonnington  Linn,  and  2f  miles  SSE  of  Lanark.  It 
receives,  on  its  left  bank,  Monks  and  Poniel  Waters,  and, 
on  its  right  bank,  Kennox  AVater  and  Glespin,  Parkhall, 
Craig,  Ponfeigh,  Shiels,  and  Drumalbin  Burns  ;  con- 
tains good  store  of  trout ;  and  gives  the  name  of  Douglas- 
dale to  its  basin  or  valley,  which,  comprising  nearly  all 
Douglas  parish  and  considerable  portions  of  Carmichael 
and  Lesmahagow,  is  so  overhung  by  a  conspicuous  part 
of  a  great  range  of  watershed  catching  the  rain  clouds 
from  the  S  and  AV,  as  to  render  the  volume  of  the 
Douglas  nearly  equal  to  that  of  the  Clyde  at  the  point 
of  confluence,  and  has  such  a  configuration  as  to  impart 
some  peculiarity  to  the  climate.  '  The  district,'  says 
the  New  Statist,  '  is  exposed  to  high  winds,  particularly 
from  the  SW  and  W,  which,  being  confined  as  in  a 
funnel  by  the  high  grounds  on  each  side,  sweep  down 
the  strath  with  tremendous  violence.' — Ord.  Sur.,  shs. 
15,  23,  1864-65. 

Doulas  or  Dulaich,  a  loch  in  Lairg  parish,  S  Suther- 
land, 2i  miles  NE  of  Lairg  village.  L3-ing  480  feet 
above  sea-level,  it  measures  3  by  14  furlongs,  sends  off  a 
rivulet  to  Loch  Shin  at  Lairg  village,  and  itself  receives 
one,  running  f  mile  eastward  from  Loch  Craggie,  like 
which  it  abounds  in  very  fine  trout,  running  about  ^  lb, 
each.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  102,  1881.  357 


DOULE 

Doule,  a  lake  in  Strathcarron,  Ross-shire,  adjacent  to 
the  Dingwall  and  Skye  railway,  6  miles  NE  of  the  head 
of  Loch  Carron.  It  it  an  expansion  of  the  river  Carron, 
measures  about  2  miles  in  length,  contains  three  islands, 
and  is  well  stocked  with  trout. 

Douloch  or  Dubh  Loch,  a  lake  in  Inverary  parish, 
Argyllshire,  at  the  foot  of  Glen  Shira,  2  miles  NE  of 
Inverary  town.  An  expansion  of  the  Sliira  rivulet, 
measuring  |  mile  by  1^  furlong,  it  lies  only  25  feet  above 
the  level  of  Loch  Fyne,  extends  to  within  5  furlongs  of 
the  Shira's  mouth,  and  in  spring-tides  receives  some 
small  portion  of  Loch  Fyne's  sea-water.  It  yields  trout 
and  salmon,  sometimes  in  the  same  net  with  herrings 
and  other  sea  fish  ;  and  takes  the  name  of  Douloch, 
signifying  '  the  black  lake,'  from  the  sombreness  and 
depth  of  its  waters.  A  baronial  fortalice  of  the  Lairds 
of  ilacnaughton  stood  on  its  southern  shore,  and  is 
now  a  ruin. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  37,  1S76. 

Doune  or  Dun  of  Creich.     See  Cueicii,  Sutherland. 

Doune,  a  modern  mansion,  in  the  Rothiemurchus  por- 
tion of  Duthil  parish,  E  Inverness-shire,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Spey,  2J  miles  SSW  of  Aviemore  station.  Its 
owner.  Sir  John  Peter  Grant  of  Rothiemurchus,  K.C.  B. , 
G.C.M.G.  (b.  1S07  ;  sue.  1S4S),  was  Lieut. -Governor  of 
Bengal  1859-62,  and  Governor  of  Jamaica  1866-73  ;  he 
holds  24,457  acres  in  the  shii'c,  valued  at  £2291  per 
annum. 

Doune,  an  oval,  flat-topped  mound  in  Strathdon 
parish,  W  Aberdeenshire,  at  the  W  side  of  the  Water  of 
Nochty,  just  above  its  influx  to  the  Don.  Mainly  (it 
would  seem)  of  drift  or  diluvial  formation,  artificially 
altered  and  fortified,  it  was  surrounded  by  a  moat  26 
feet  wide  and  16  deep,  and  measures  970  feet  in  circum- 
ference at  the  base,  60  in  vertical  height,  and  562  in 
circumference  at  the  top,  which,  about  half  an  acre  in 
area,  shows  foundations  of  buildings.  According  to 
vague  tradition,  it  was  the  site  of  Invernochty  church. 

Doune,  a  mountain  in  Luss  parish,  Dumbartonshire, 
at  the  head  of  Glenmallochan,  5|  miles  NW  by  W  of 
Luss  village.  It  has  an  altitude  of  2409  feet  above  sea- 
level. 

Doune  or  Down  Law,  a  hill  (663  feet)  in  the  SW  of 
Roxburgh  parish,  Roxburghshire,  adjoining  Peniel 
Heugh  in  Crailing. 

Doune  (Gael,  'the  hill'),  a  village  in  Kilmadock 
parish,  S  Perthshire,  with  a  station  on  the  Dunblane 
and  Callander  section  of  the  Caledonian,  78  miles  ESE 
of  Oban,  7i  SE  of  Callander,  3|  W  by  N  of  Dunblane, 
8|  NW  of  Stirling,  45  NW  of  Edinburgh,  and  38^  NNE 
of  Glasgow.  It  stands  near  the  left  bank  of  the  swil't 
river  Teith,  which  here  receives  Ardoch  Burn,  and  here 
is  spanned  by  a  noble  two-arched  bridge,  founded  in 
1535  by  Robert  Spittal,  tailor  to  the  Jlost  Noble  Princess 
Margaret,  the  Queen  of  James  IV. ,  and  widened  3  feet 
in  1866.  The  village  of  Bridge  of  Teith  adjoins  it,  and 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  1  mile  to  the  W,  stands 
that  of  Deax.stox  ;  whilst  just  to  the  S  frown  the  hoary 
ruins  of  Doune  Castle,  and  behind  rise  the  heathery 
Braes  of  Doune,  which  culminate  in  Uamh  Bheag  (2179 
feet),  62  miles  to  the  NW.  Itself,  Doune  mainly  con- 
sists of  a  larger  and  two  smaller  well-built  streets, 
radiating  from  an  old  central  market-cross  ;  and  has  a 
post  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  tele- 
graph departments,  branches  of  the  Royal  and  Union 
Banks,  5  insurance  agencies,  an  hotel  and  2  inns,  a  gas 
company,  a  public  library,  a  volunteer  corps,  curling 
and  bowling  clubs,  a  masonic  lodge  (1789),  a  Free  Gar- 
deners' lodge  (1819),  and  a  horticultural  institution 
(1837).  Thursday  is  market-day  ;  and  fairs  are  held  on 
the  second  Wednesday  of  Jlay,  the  last  Wednesday  of 
July  (hiring),  the  Tuesday  before  the  first  Wednesday  of 
November  (sheep),  the  first  AVcdnesday  of  November 
(cattle  and  horses),  and  the  fourth  Wednesday  of  No- 
vember (sheep  and  cattle),  four  of  these  fairs  having 
been  authorised  by  Act  of  Parliament  in  1665.  Once 
famous  for  its  manufacture  of  Highland  pistols  and 
sporans,  Doune  now  depends  chiefly  upon  Deanston 
cotton-mill,  started  in  1785.  Places  of  worship  are  the 
parish  church  (1822;  1151  sittings^  a  Gothic  edifice, 
368 


DOUNREAY 

with  handsome  tower  and  beautiful  pulpit ;  a  Free 
church  ;  a  U.  P.  church  at  Bridge  of  Teith,  of  which  Dr 
John  M'Kerrow,  historian  of  the  Secession,  was  minister 
from  1813  till  his  death  in  1867  ;  the  Roman  Catliolic 
church  of  SS.  Fillan  and  Alphonsus-(1875  ;  300  sittings); 
and  St  ]\Iodoc's  Episcopal  church  (1878  ;  120  sittings), 
which.  Early  English  in  style,  consists  of  a  four-bayed 
nave  barrel-vaulted  in  oak,  a  three-bayed  chancel  groined 
in  stone,  a  N  organ  transept,  and  a  N  sacristy,  with 
beautiful  stained-glass  E  and  W  windows  and  wooden 
triptych  reredos.  A  public  and  an  infant  school,  with 
respective  accommodation  for  131  and  94  children,  had 

(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  56  and  42,  and  grants 
of  £48,  14s.  and  £28.  The  superior  of  the  village  is  the 
Earl  of  Moray,  whose  Perthshire  seat  is  Doune  Lodge. 
Pop.  (1841)  1559,  (1851)  1459,  (1861)  1256,  (1871)1262, 

(1881)  997.— Or(?.  Sur.,  sh.  39,  1869. 

Doune  Castle,  a  stately  baronial  stronghold,  at  the 
SE  end  of  Doune  village,  on  the  steep,  woody,  green- 
sward peninsula,  formed  by  the  river  Teith  and  Ardoch 
Burn.  Roofless  and  ruinous,  though  still  a  majestic 
pile,  it  has  been  said  to  date  from  the  11th  century,  but 
probably  was  either  founded  or  enlarged  by  Murdoch 
Stewart,  second  Duke  of  Albanj-,  and  Governor  of  Scot- 
land from  1419  to  1424.  At  his  execution  (25  May 
1425)  on  the  heading-hiU  of  Stirling,  it  went  to  the 
Crown,  and,  given  by  James  IV.  to  Margaret,  his  queen, 
passed  in  1525  to  her  third  husband,  Henry  Stewart,  a 
lineal  descendant  of  the  first  Duke  of  Albany.  To  his 
brother.  Sir  James,  the  custody  of  it  was  afterwards 
granted  by  James  V. ;  and  Ms  son  and  namesake,  created 
Lord  Doune  in  1581,  coming  into  full  possession,  trans- 
mitted the  same  to  his  posterity,  the  Earls  of  Moray. 
From  time  to  time  a  residence  of  royalty,  including  of 
course  Queen  Mary,  it  was  garrisoned  in  the  '45  for  Prince 
Charles  Edward  by  a  nejiliew  of  the  celebrated  Rob  Roy, 
and  then  was  mounted  with  a  twelve-pounder  and 
several  swivels.  Scott  brings  his  hero  'Waverley' 
within  its  walls  ;  and  it  was  really  the  six  days'  prison 
of  Home,  the  author  of  Douglas,  who,  with  five  fellow- 
captives  from  the  field  of  Falkirk,  escaped  by  means  of 
a  blanket-twisted  rope.  This  noble  specimen  of  Scottish 
baronial  architecture  measures  96  feet  each  way,  and, 
with  w^alls  10  feet  in  thickness  and  40  in  height,  com- 
prises a  massive  north-eastern  keep-tower,  which,  80 
feet  high,  commands  a  most  lovely  view ;  within  are 
the  court-yard,  guardhouse,  kitchen,  great  hall  (63  by 
25  feet),  the  I3aron's  Hall,  and  Queen  Mary's  Room. 
'  The  mass  of  buildings,'  says  Dr  Hill  Burton,  'forms 
altogether  a  compact  quadrangle,  the  towers  and  curtains 
serving  as  the  extensive  fortifications,  and  embracing  a 
court-yard  nearly  surrounded  by  the  buildings.  The 
bastioned  square  tower  of  the  15th  century  is  the  ruling 
feature  of  the  place  ;  but  the  edifice  is  of  various  ages, 
and  includes  round  staircase  towers  and  remains  of 
the  angular  turrets  of  the  beginning  of  the  17th  cen- 
tury. Winding  stairs,  long  ranging  corridors  and 
passages,  and  an  abundance  of  mysterious  vaults,  strong, 
deep,  and  gloomy,  reward  the  investigator  who  has  leisure 
enough  to  pass  an  hour  or  two  within  its  hoary  walls  ; 
but,  as  we  generally  find  in  the  old  Scottish  baronial 
edifices,  there  are  few  decorative  features,  and  immense 
strength  has  been  the  great  aim  of  each  builder.'  See 
Billings'  Baronial  Antiquities  (1852). 

Doune  Lodge,  a  mansion  in  Kilmadock  parish,  Perth- 
shire, li  mile  NW  of  Doune  village.  Till  some  time 
into  the  present  century  it  bore  the  name  of  Cambus- 
wallace,  and  as  such  is  remembered  as  the  house  where, 
on  13  Sept.  1745,  Prince  Charlie  '  prce'd  the  mou'  of 
Jliss  Robina  Edmondstone.  From  the  Edmondstones 
it  has  come  to  the  Earls  of  Moray,  the  tenth  of  whom, 
about  1852,  did  much  to  improve  the  estate,  building 
new  lodges  and  extensive  oflices,  crowned  by  a  conspi- 
cuous steeple  ;  and  George  Stuart,  present  and  thirteenth 
Earl  (b.  1814  ;  sue.  1872),  holds  40,553  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £10,800  per  annum.  (See  Mokav,  DoNl- 
BUisrr.E,  Dauxaway,  and  CASTLE-SruAnr. ) 

Dounies.     See  Doavnies. 

Dounreay.     See  Reav. 


DOUR 


DRAINIE 


Dour,  a  burn  in  Abenlour  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  run- 
ning Sg  miles  north-by-eastward  to  the  Moray  Firth  at 
a  point  1  mile  N  of  New  Aberdour  village. 

Doura,  a  village  in  Kilwinning  parish,  Ayrshire, 
Z][  miles  ESE  of  the  town.  Extensive  coal-works  are 
in  its  vicinity,  and  are  connected  with  the  Ardrossan 
branch  of  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  railway  by 
a  single-line  railroad. 

Dourie,  a  burn  of  ^larjdcirk  parish,  Kincardineshire, 
formed,  5  furlongs  SE  of  Fettercairn  village,  by  Balna- 
kettle,  Crichie,  and  Garrol  Burns,  and  thence  running 
3^  miles  south-south-eastward  along  the  Fettercairn 
border  and  through  the  interior,  till,  9  furlongs  NNW 
of  Marykirk  station,  it  falls  into  Luther  AVater. — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  66,  57,  1871-68. 
Dovan.     See  Devon. 

Dovecothall,  a  village  on  the  S  border  of  Abbey 
parish,  Renfrewshire,  on  the  river  Levern,  conjoint 
with  Barrhead.  It  contains  the  oldest  of  the  cotton 
mills  in  the  Barrhead  district,  and  shares  largely  in  the 
bleachfield  and  print  field  business  of  Barrhead. 
Dovecotwood.     See  Kilsyth. 

Dovehill,  one  of  the  Barrhead  villages  in  Renfrew- 
shire. 
Doveran.     See  Deveron. 

Dovesland,  a  suburb  in  Abbey  parish,  Renfrewshire, 
on  the  S  side  of  Paisley.     It  forms  part  of  Charleston 
district,  was  mainly  built  after  the  year  1830,  and  has  a 
large  population,  chiefly  weavers. 
Dow.     See  Glendow. 
Dowal.     See  Doule. 

Dowally,  a  village  in  the  united  parish  of  Dunkeld 
AND  Dowally,  central  Perthshire,  5  furlongs  SSE  of 
Guay  station  on  the  Highland  railway,  this  being  55 
miles  NNW  of  Dnnkeld  station.  It  stands  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Tay,  which  here  is  joined  by  Dowally  Burn, 
and,  J  mile  higher  up,  is  spanned  by  Dalguise  viaduct. 
Dowally  Burn  issues  from  Lochan  Oisinneach  Bheag 
(l^xf  furl.)  in  Logierait  parish,  and  runs  7^  miles 
south-south-westward,  traversing  Lochan  Oisinneach 
Mhor  (4  X  2J  furl. )  and  Loch  Ordie  (5x3^  furl. ),  whilst 
receiving  a  streamlet  that  runs  J  mile  north-westward 
from  Dowally  Loch  (If  x  f  furl.).  At  the  village  are  a 
public  school  and  an  Established  church  (1818  ;  220 
sittings),  which  retains  the  old  jougs  of  the  church  of  St 
Anne,  built  here  by  Bishop  George  Brown  of  Dunkeld 
in  1500,  when  Dowally,  till  then  a  chapelry  of  Caputh, 
was  constituted  a  separate  parish.  It  now  is  united  to 
Dunkeld,  but  stands  so  far  distinct,  that  it  is  a  Gaelic, 
while  Dunkeld  is  an  English,  district.  Pop.  of  Dowally 
registration  division  (1861)  486,  (1871)  461,  (1881)  431. 
—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  55,  1869. 

Dowalton  Loch,  a  former  lake  on  the  mutual  border  of 
Sorbie,  Kirkinner,  and  Glasserton  parishes,  SE  Wig- 
townshire, 6  miles  SSW  of  Wigtown.  With  a  length  of 
1|  mile  from  WSW  to  ENE,  a  varying  breadth  of  1  and 
5;|  furlongs,  and  a  depth  of  from  6  to  20  feet,  it  covered 
212  acres,  but  was  entirely  drained  in  1862-63  by  its 
three  proprietors  Sir  W.  Maxwell  of  Monreith,  Vans 
Agnew,  and  Lord  Stair,  its  bottom  now  forming  excel- 
lent meadow-land.  Of  its  eight  little  islets  two  near 
the  north-western  or  Kirkinner  shore  were  then  dis- 
covered to  bo  artificial  crannoges  or  pile-built  lake- 
dwellings.  These  yielded  bones  of  the  ox,  pig,  and 
deer,  bronze  vessels  (one  of  them  of  Roman  workman- 
ship), iron  axe  and  hammer  heads,  glass  and  amber 
beads,  and  part  of  a  leather  shoe,  with  finely-stamped 
pattern,  twenty-six  of  which  relics  are  now  in  the 
Edinburgh  Antiquarian  Museum  ;  and  in  the  neighbour- 
ing waters  of  the  loch  five  canoes  were  found,  from  21  to 
26  feet  long.  On  the  shore  of  a  western  inlet  stood 
Longcastle,  the  ancient  keep  of  the  M'Doualls,  from 
whom  the  loch  got  its  name  ;  its  site  is  now  marked  by 
fragments  of  crumbling  wall. — Onf.  Sur.,  sh.  4,  1857. 
See  Dr  John  Stuart's  'Notices  of  a  Group  of  Artificial 
Islands  in  the  Loch  of  Dowalton '  in  vol.  vi.  of  Procs. 
Soc.  Ants.  Scotl.,  and  pp.  45-47  of  Wm.  M'llraith's 
JFifffjjicmhire  {-Zd  cd. ,  Dumf. ,  1877). 
Dowie  Dens.  See  Yarkow. 
21 


Dowloch.     See  Doulocji. 

Down.     See  Doune. 

Downan,  a  quondam  ancient  chapelry  in  Glenlivct, 
Inveraven  parish,  Banlf'shire,  near  the  Livet's  confluence 
with  the  Avon.  A  bridge  over  the  Livet  at  Upper 
Downan  being  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  the  flood  of 
1829,  a  new  one,  on  a  better  site  lower  down  the  stream, 
was  built  in  1835. 

Downans.     See  Castle-Donnan, 

Downess.     See  Downies. 

Downfield,  a  village,  with  a  public  school,  in  Mains 
and  Strathmartin  parish,  Forfarshire,  2  miles  N  by  W 
of  Dundee,  under  which  it  has  a  post  ofiice,  with  money 
order  and  savings'  bank  departments. 

Downie.     See  Cambustane. 

Downie  Park,  an  estate,  with  an  elegant  modern  man- 
sion, in  Tannadicc  parish,  Forfarshire,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  South  Esk,  1  mile  SE  of  Cortachy  Castle,  like 
which  it  belongs  to  the  Earl  of  Airlie. 

Downies,  a  fishing  hamlet,  with  a  small  harbour,  in 
the  extreme  SE  of  Banchory-Devenick  parish,  Kincar- 
dineshire, 1  mile  S  by  E  of  Portlethen  station. 

Downreay.     See  Reay. 

Dow- Well.    See  Innerleithen. 

Draffan  Castle.     See  Dunixo. 

Dragon-Hole,  a  cave  in  the  rocky  face  of  Kinnoull 
Hill,  near  the  mutual  boimdary  of  Kinnoull  and  Kin- 
fauns  parishes,  Perthshire.  It  is  diflScult  of  access  ;  has 
capacity  for  about  twelve  men  ;  is  traditionally  said  to 
have  been  a  hiding-place  of  Sir  William  Wallace  ;  and, 
till  after  the  era  of  the  Reformation,  was  a  scene  of 
superstitious  observances. 

Drainie,  a  coast  parish  of  Elginshire,  comprising  the 
ancient  parishes  of  Kinneddar  and  Ogstoun,  and  contain- 
ing the  villages  of  Branderburgh  and  Stotfield,  and 
the  post-town  and  station  of  Lossiemouth,  5|  miles  N 
by  E  of  Elgin.  It  is  bounded  N  by  the  Moray  Firth, 
NE  and  E  by  Urquhart,  SE  by  St  Andrews-Lhanbryd, 
S  by  Spynie,  and  SW  by  Duifus.  Its  length,  from  E 
to  W,  varies  between  3:^  and  4§  miles  ;  its  utmost 
breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  3g  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  7254J 
acres,  of  which  273|  are  foreshore  and  16J  water. 
The  coast-line,  5  miles  long,  is  partly  low  and  flat, 
partly  an  intricate  series  of  cavernous  rocks,  noticed 
under  Covesea.  On  the  Dufl"us  border,  J  mile  inland, 
the  surface  attains  241  feet  above  sea-level,  at  Covesea 
195,  near  Lossiemouth  124  ;  but  to  the  S  it  every- 
where is  low  and  flat,  ranging  between  43  feet  at  the 
parish  church  and  only  9  at  Watery  Mains.  The  river 
Lossie  curves  2^  miles  northward,  north-westward,  and 
north-eastward,  along  all  the  Urquhart  border,  and  just 
above  its  mouth  receives  the  Spynie  Canal,  bending  3^ 
miles  northward  from  the  former  bed  of  Loch  Spynie, 
which,  lying  upon  the  southern  boundary,  was  origin- 
ally aliout  3  miles  long  and  1  mile  broad,  but  by  drainage 
operations,  carried  out  about  1807,  and  again  in  1860-70, 
has  been  reduced  to  a  sheet  of  water  in  St  Andrews- 
Lhanbryd  parish  of  only  5  by  1^  furlongs.  Low  tracts 
along  the  Lossie  were  formerly  subject  to  inundation, 
and  suffered  much  damage  from  the  flood  of  1829,  but 
now  are  protected  by  embankments.  A  white  and 
yellow  sandstone  quarried  here  is  in  great  request,  both 
for  local  building  and  for  exportation  ;  and  a  vein  of 
limestone  lies  between  Lossiemouth  and  Stotfield,  where 
surface  lead  ore  also  has  thrice  been  the  object  of  fruit- 
less operations — during  last  century,  in  1853,  and  in 
1879-81.  The  soil  is  so  various  that  scarcely  20  acres 
of  any  one  same  quality  can  be  found  together,  and  it 
often  passes  with  sudden  transition  from  good  to  bad. 
Rich  loam  or  marly  clay  lies  on  the  low  drained  fields, 
elsewhere  is  mostly  a  lighter  soil,  incumbent  on  gravel 
or  on  pure  white  sand  ;  and  about  a  square  mile  of  thin 
heathy  earth,  in  the  middle  of  the  parish,  having 
resisted  every  effort  to  render  it  arable,  was  at  last  con- 
verted into  a  small  pine  forest.  Kinneddar  Castle,  a 
strong  occasional  residence  of  the  P.ishops  of  Moray, 
stood  by  Kinneddar  churchyard,  whilst  the  first  church 
of  Drainie  (1673)  exists  still  in  a  state  of  ruin.  Gerar- 
dine's  Cave  or  Iloly-JIauhcad,  near  Lossiemouth,  was 

369 


DRAKEMYEE 

probably  the  abode  of  a  liermit,  and,  measuring  12 
feet  square,  had  a  Gothic  doorway  and  -window,  which 
commanded  a  long  view  of  the  eastern  coast,  but  in  the 
course  of  working  the  quarries  it  was  totally  destroyed. 
GouDONSTOAVN  is  the  only  mansion  ;  and  2  proprietors 
hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  2  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  4  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  30 
of  from  £20  to  £50.  Drainie  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Elgin  and  svnod  of  iloray  ;  the  living  is  worth  £327. 
The  parish  cliurch,  2|  miles  SW  of  Lossiemouth,  was 
built  in  1S23,  and  contains  700  sittings.  A  chapel  of 
ease  and  a  Free  church  are  at  Lossiemouth  ;  U.  P.  and 
Baptist  churches  at  Brandcnburgh  ;  and  three  public 
schools— Drainie,  Kinneddar,  and  Lossiemouth— with 
respective  accommodation  for  85,  246,  and  400  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  61,  199,  and  293, 
and  grants  of  £41,  6s.,  £133,  15s.,  and  £253,  16s.  6d. 
Valuation  (1860)  £7565,  (1881)  £12,099,  19s.  Pop. 
(1801) 1057, (1831) 1206, (1861) 3028, (1871) 3293, (1881) 
•39SS.—Onl.  Sur.,  sh.  95,  1876. 

Drakemyre,  a  village  in  Dairy  parish,  Ayrshire, 
i  mile  N  of  Dairy  town.  Pop.  (1831)  126,  (1861)  426, 
("1871)  536,  (1881)  325. 

Dreel,  a  burn  in  the  East  Neuk  of  Fife,  rising  in  the 
NWof  Carnbee  parish,  at  an  altitude  of  580  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  running  6  miles  southward,  south-eastward, 
and  eastward,  through  Carnbee  and  along  the  boundary 
between  Abercromby  and  Pittenweem  on  the  right,  and 
Carnbee,  Anstruther-"\Vester,  and  Anstruther-Easter  on 
the  left,  till  it  falls  into  the  Firth  of  Forth  at  Austruther 
old  harbour. 

Dreghom,  a  village  and  a  parish  on  the  southern 
border  of  Cunninghame  district,  Ayrshire.  The  village, 
standing  3  furlongs  from  the  right  bank  of  the  river 
Irvine,  is  2^  miles  ESE  of  Irvine  and  5  W  of  KUmarnock, 
having  a  station  on  the  branch  of  the  Glasgow  and 
South-Western  between  those  towns  ;  at  it  is  a  post 
office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  railway 
telegraph  departments.  It^chiefly  consists  of  irregular 
lines  of  whitewashed  houses,  interspersed  with  trees, 
and,  occupying  a  gentle  acclivity  above  adjacent  flats, 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  waters  and  screens  of  the 
Firth  of  Clyde.  Pop.  (1861)  901,  (1871)  821,  (1881) 
936. 

The  parish  comprises  the  ancient  parishes  of  Dregliorn 
and  Perceton,  united  in  1668,  and  contains  the  greater 
part  of  Pjankhead  and  Perceton  villages.  It  is  bounded 
NW  and  N  by  Stewarton,  E  by  Fenwick,  SE  by  Kil- 
maurs,  S  by  Dundonald,  and  W  by  Irvine.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  NE  to  SW,  is  6  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from 
KW  to  SE,  varies  between  ^  mile  and  2§  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  5661§  acres,  of  which  36  are  water.  The  river 
luviNE  glides  2§  miles  westward  along  all  the  southern 
border  ;  Carrier  Burn,  running  6^  miles  south-westwai'd 
to  Carmel  Water,  and  Cakmel  Water,  running  4^  fur- 
longs westward  to  the  Irvine,  trace  nearly  all  the 
boundary  with  Kilmaurs ;  whilst  Annick  Water, 
another  of  the  Irvine's  affluents,  winds  lOi  miles  south- 
westward  on  or  near  to  all  the  boundary  with  Stewarton 
and  Irvine.  Sinking  at  the  south-western  corner  of  tlie 
parish  to  30  feet  above  sea-level,  the  surface  thence 
rises  gently  north-westward  to  97  feet  beyond  Dregliorn 
village,  150  near  Warwickdale,  226  near  Albonhead, 
and  258  near  Whiterig.  The  rocks  are  mainly  carboni- 
ferous. Coal  is  largely  worked,  and  ironstone,  lime- 
stone, and  sandstone  abound.  The  soil,  in  the  SAV 
ranging  from  loam  to  gravel,  is  elsewhere  mostly  a  deej) 
rich  loam  ;  and  all  the  land,  excepting  some  acres  of 
wood  and  meadow,  is  under  cultivation.  Thougli  now 
much  subdivided,  the  entire  parish  belonged  in 
the  12th  century  to  the  De  Morvilles,  lord  high 
constables  of  Scotland,  from  whom  it  passed  in 
1196  to  Roland,  Lord  of  Galloway.  Mansions  are 
Annick  Lodge,  Cunningiiamiikad,  Perceton,  Spiiing- 
8IUE,  and  Warwickliill ;  and  9  proprietors  hold 
each  an  annual  value  of  £500  am!  ui)wards,  9  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  3  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  14 
of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the  jires))ytery  of  Irvine  and 
synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr,  Dregliorn  gives  oil'  about 
370 


DBIMNIN 

450  acres,  with  350  inhabitants,  to  the  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  CiiossiiousE  ;  the  living  is  worth  £448.  The 
parish  church  (1780  ;  reseated  1876  for  500)  stands 
at  the  village,  where  also  are  a  Free  Chiu'ch  mis- 
sion station  and  an  Evangelical  Union  chapel ;  and 
Dregliorn  Free  church  is  at  Perceton  village.  Three  pub- 
lic schools — Crossroads,  Dregliorn,  and  Springside — with 
respective  accommodation  for  100,  300,  and  300  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  34,  248,  and  234, 
and  grants  of  £32,  4s. ,  £237,  8s. ,  and  £200,  15s.  A'alua- 
tion  (1860)  £18,915,  (1882)  £22,679,  9s.,  plus  £3243  for 
railways.  Pop.  (1801)  797,  (1831)  888,  (1841)  1222, 
(1861)  3283,  (1871)  3241,  (1881)  3949.— Orc^.  Sur.,  sh. 
22,  1865. 

Dreghom  Castle,  a  17th  century  mansion,  twice  en- 
larged within  the  last  80  years,  in  Colintou  parish, 
Edinburghshire,  at  the  northern  base  of  the  Pentlands, 
I  mile  SE  of  Colinton  village.  Tlie  estate,  whence  John 
Slaclaurin  (1734-96)  assumed  the  title  of  Lord  Dreghorn 
on  his  elevation  to  the  bench,  belonged  in  1671  to  Sir 
William  ilurray,  Master  of  Works  to  Charles  II.,  and 
in  1720  to  the  Homes,  whose  tutor,  the  poet  David 
Mallet,  here  wrote  the  famous  ballad  of  William  and 
Margaret.  Afterwards  it  passed  to  the  Trotters,  and 
now  is  owned  by  Robert  Andrew  Macfie,  Es(i. ,  who,  born 
in  1811,  was  member  for  Leith  from  1S6S  to  1874,  and 
who  holds  968  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2136  per 
annum.  In  Sept.  1881  Dreghorn  Castle  was  honoured 
by  a  visit  from  Kalakaua,  King  of  the  Hawaiian 
Islands. 

Drem,  a  village  and  a  barony  in  Athelstaneford  parish, 
Haddingtonshire,  i^  miles  N  by  W  of  Haddington. 
The  village  stands  on  the  North  British  railway  at  the 
junction  of  the  branch  to  North  Berwick,  being  4|  miles 
SSW  of  that  town,  and  17i  E  by  N  of  Edinburgh  ;  at 
it  is  a  j)ost  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and 
telegraph  departments.  The  barony,  comprising  more 
than  800  acres  of  fine  land,  belonged  once  to  the  Knights 
Templars,  and  is  now  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Hope- 
toun.  A  small  Roman  station  seems  to  have  been  on 
it,  and  ^  mile  distant  therefrom  was  a  Caledonian  or 
Romano-British  town,  which  appears  to  have  been 
strongly  fortified,  and  has  left  distinct  traces  on  the 
cro\\Ti  of  a  conical  eminence  to  the  extent  of  about  2 
acres.  The  priest's  house  of  the  Knights  Templars'  esta- 
blishment is  still  standing,  as  also  are  a  holly  hedge  that 
fenced  the  priest's  garden  and  the  greater  part  of  a  little 
chapel,  served  by  the  priest ;  but  the  grave3'ard  attached 
to  the  chapel  lias  been  converted  into  a  fruitful  garden. 
About  100  yards  from  the  old  chapel  a  very  perfect 
specimen  was  discovered  in  Aj^ril  1882  of  an  ancient 
sepulchre,  formed  of  six  red  .sandstone  flags,  and  contain- 
ing a  skull  and  a  clay  urn. 

Drhuim.     See  DiiituiM. 

Drimachtor.     See  Duumociitek. 

Drimadoon,  a  small  bay  on  the  SW  side  of  the  Isle 
of  Arrau,  liuteshire,  opening  from  Kilbrannan  Sound, 
nearly  opposite  Saddel  Castle.  It  is  a  mere  encurvature, 
measuring  2  miles  along  the  chord,  and  4J  furlongs 
thence  to  its  inmost  recess  ;  receives  the  Black  Water  ; 
and  is  flanked  on  the  N  side  by  Drimadoon  Point,  sur- 
mounted by  remains  of  an  extensive  doon  or  fort  and  by 
a  standing  stone. 

Drunarbane,  a  village  in  Kilmallie  parish,  Inverness- 
shire,  on  the  E  shore  of  lower  Loch  Eil,  2^  miles  SW  of 
Fort  William. 

Drimmashie.    See  Dhummossie. 

Drimmie,  an  estate  in  the  W  of  Longforgan  parish, 
SE  rertlisliire.  The  mansion  on  it  was  the  residence 
of  tlie  Kinnaird  family  after  the  destruction  of  ]\Ioncur 
Castle  by  fire  in  the  beginning  of  last  century  ;  but  it 
was  taken  down  about  the  year  1830.  The  Snabs  of 
Drimmie  (177  feet)  are  an  abrupt  termination  of  a  beauti- 
ful bank,  extending  north-westward  from  the  bold  rocky 
point  of  Kingoodie  ;  and  tliey  command  a  fine  view  of 
the  Carse  of  Gowrie. 

Drimmieburn.     See  Per-sie. 

Drimnin,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Morvern 
parish,   Argyllshire,   on   the  Sound   of  Mull,   opposite 


DRIMSYNIE 

Tobermory,  12J  miles  NW  of  ]\Ioi'vern  hamlet.  Its 
owner,  Joseph  Clement  Gordon,  Esq.  (b.  1838  ;  sue. 
1845),  holds  7422  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £853  per 
annum.  St  Columba's  Roman  Catholic  church  here, 
with  80  sittings,  was  built  in  1833  by  the  late  Sir 
Charles  Gordon  of  Drimnin  ;  and,  overlooking  the  Sound, 
occupies  the  site  of  an  old  castle,  of  no  great  import- 
ance, which  was  demolished  to  give  place  to  the  church. 

Drimsjmie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Lochgoil- 
head  parish,  Argjdlshire.  The  mansion  stands  in  the 
mouth  of  a  romantic  ravine,  ^  mile  W  of  Lochgoilhead 
village,  and  has  finely  wooded  grounds. 

DrimyeonlDeg,  a  bay  (7x6  furl.)  on  the  E  side  of 
Gigha  island,  Argyllshire,  to  the  N  of  Ardminish  Point. 
It  is  capacious  enough  for  local  trade,  and  has  good 
anchoring  ground. 

Drochil  Castle,  a  ruin  in  Newlands  parish,  Peebles- 
shire, on  the  brow  of  a  rising-ground  between  the 
confluent  Tarth  and  Lyne  Waters,  7  miles  WNW  of 
Peebles.  A  noble  pile,  mantled  in  ivy  and  crusted  with 
yellow  lichens,  its  basement  story  converted  into  byres, 
it  was,  says  Pennicuik,  '  designed  for  a  palace  more 
than  a  castle  of  defence,  and  is  of  mighty  bulk  ;  founded, 
and  more  than  half  built,  but  never  finished,  by  the 
then  great  and  powerful  Regent,  James  Douglas,  Earl  of 
Morton.  Upon  the  front  of  the  S  entry  of  this  castle 
was  J.E.O.M.,  James,  Earl  of  Morton,  in  raised  letters, 
with  the  fetter-lock,  as  "Warden  of  the  Borders.  This 
mighty  Earl,  for  the  pleasure  of  the  place,  and  the 
salubrity  of  the  air,  designed  here  a  noble  recess  and 
retirement  from  worldly  business  ;  but  was  prevented  by 
his  unfortunate  and  inexorable  death  three  years  after, 
anno  1581  ;  being  accused,  condemned,  and  execute  by 
the  Maiden,  at  the  Cross  of  Edinburgh,  as  art  and  part 
of  the  mui'der  of  our  King  Henry,  Earl  of  Darnley, 
father  to  King  James  the  Sixth '  {Description  of  Tweed- 
dale,  1715).  See  also  vol.  ii.  of  Billings'  Baronial 
Antiqicitics  (1852).— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  24,  1864. 

Droma,  a  troutful  loch  in  Lochbroom  parish,  central 
Ross-shire,  6  miles  WNW  of  Aultguish  inn,  and  16|  NW 
of  Garve  station.  Lying  905  feet  above  sea-level,  it  has 
an  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  1;^  and  ^  mile,  and 
sends  off  the  Droma  rivulet  5J  miles  west-north-west- 
ward, to  form,  with  the  Cuileig,  the  river  Broom. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  92,  1881. 

Dromore.     See  Drumore. 

Dron,  a  hill  in  Longforgan  parish,  Perthshire,  ad- 
jacent to  the  boundary  with  Forfarshire,  2  miles  NW  of 
Longforgan  village.  It  rises  to  an  altitude  of  684  feet 
above  sea-level ;  and  it  has,  within  a  dell  on  its  southern 
slope,  some  remains  of  a  chapel  of  the  12th  century, 
belonging  to  Coupar- Angus  Abbey. 

Dron,  a  parish  of  SE  Perthshire,  whose  church  stands 
2  miles  SSE  of  its  station  and  post-village,  Bridge  of 
Earn,  that  being  3|  miles  SSE  of  Perth.  It  includes  a 
detached  district  separated  from  the  W  side  of  the  main 
body  by  a  strip  of  Dunbarney,  1  furlong  to  ^  mile  across  ; 
and  it  is  bounded  N  by  Dunbarney,  NE  and  E  by  Aber- 
nethy,  SE  by  the  Fifeshire  and  S  by  the  Perthshire 
section  of  Arngask,  SW  and  W  by  Forgandenny.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  3J  miles  ;  its  breadth, 
from  N  to  S,  varies  between  1^  and  2^  miles ;  and  its 
area  is  4192g  acres,  of  which  63 1§  belong  to  the  detached 
district,  and  5  are  water.  The  Farg  winds  3|  miles 
along  the  south-eastern  and  eastern  border  ;  and  in  the 
NE,  where  it  passes  off  into  Abernethy,  the  surface 
sinks  to  45  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  to  751  on 
Balmanno  Hill  and  950  on  Dron  Hill — grassy,  copse- 
decked  summits  of  the  Ochils  these.  The  rocks  are 
mostly  eruptive,  but  include  some  sandstone,  and  show 
appearances  of  coal.  The  soil  on  the  low  grounds  is 
chiefly  clay  and  loam,  and  on  the  uplands  is  compara- 
tively light  and  shallow.  About  five-eighths  of  the 
entire  area  are  in  tillage,  nearly  oiio-tenth  is  underwood, 
and  the  remainder  is  pasture.  The  detached  district  is 
called  Ecclesiamagirdle,  and  probably  got  its  name  from 
an  ancient  chapel  of  which  some  fragments  still  exist. 
Here  and  in  Dron  churchyard  are  two  Martyrs'  graves  ; 
on  Balnianno  Hill  is  a  large  boulder  rocking -stone. 


DRUMBLADE 

B.VLMAXXO  Castle  and  Gleneaux  House  are  the  chief 
residences  ;  and  the  property  is  divided  among  7,  4 
holding  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  1  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  1  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  1 
of  from  £20  to  £50.  Dron  is  in  the  ])resbytery  of  Pertli 
and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling ;  the  living  is  worth 
£256.  The  church  is  a  good  Gothic  edifice,  built  about 
1826,  and  containing  350  sittings ;  the  public  school, 
with  accommodation  for  62  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  44,  and  a  grant  of  £32,  9s.  Valua- 
tion (1882)  £4639,  6s.  Pop.  (1801)  428,  (1831)  464, 
(1861)  376,  (1871)  343,  (1881)  335.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  48, 
1868. 

Dronach,  a  haugh  in  Methven  parish,  Perthshire,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Almond,  h  mile  AVNW  of  Lynedoch 
Cottage,  and  4  miles  NW  of  Almondbank.  Here, 
overshadowed  by  yew-trees,  and  enclosed  by  an  iron 
railing,  is  the  grave  of  '  Bessie  Bell  and  Mary  Gray,'  who 
died  of  the  plague  in  1666.  Their  gravestone  bears 
inscription  :  '  They  lived — they  loved — they  died. '  See 
Lynedoch. 

Drongan,  a  station  on  the  Ayr  and  Cumnock  section 
of  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  railway,  9i  miles 
ESE  of  Ayr.  In  its  vicinity  are  Drongan  House,  Drongan 
colliery,  and  a  tolerably  entire  but  ruined  tower,  once 
the  residence  of  a  branch  of  the  Crawford  family. 

Drongs,  a  curious  insulated  rock  in  Northmaven 
parish,  Shetland,  at  the  back  of  Hillswick  Ness.  Rising 
almost  sheer  from  the  water  to  a  height  of  100  feet, 
it  is  cleft  in  three  places  nearly  to  the  bottom,  and, 
seen  through  a  fog  or  at  a  distance,  resembles  a  ship 
under  sail. 

Dronley,  a  village  in  the  S  of  Auchterhouse  parish,  SW 
Forfarshire,  IJ  mile  WSW  of  Dronley  station  on  the 
Ne^-tyle  branch  of  the  Caledonian,  this  being  11  mOes 
NNW  of  Dundee.     See  Auchterhouse. 

Dronochy,  a  broken,  ancient,  sculptured  cross  in  For- 
teviot  parish,  SE  Perthshire,  on  a  rising-ground  to  the 
S  of  Forteviot  Halyhill.  It  is  one  of  several  crosses  or 
pillars  that  mark  the  precincts  of  the  ancient  Picta^^an 
palace  of  Forteviot. 

Dropping  Cave,  a  stalactite  cavern  in  the  coast  cliffs  of 
Slains  parish,  Aberdeenshire,  3  furlongs  E  by  N  of  the 
parish  church.  Its  entrance  is  low,  but  its  interior  is 
lofty  and  capacious,  and  is  encrusted,  less  richly  now 
than  once,  with  numerous  beautiful  stalactites. 

Druidhm.     See  Dhruim. 

Druidibeg,  an  isleted  loch  in  South  Uist  island,  Inver- 
ness-shire, 1 6  miles  N  of  Loch  Boisdale  hotel.  It  measures 
3  miles  in  length  and  1  mile  in  width ;  abounds  in 
trout ;  and  sends  off  a  copious  streamlet,  which  drives 
the  chief  mill  of  the  island. 

Druids'  Bridge,  a  series  of  huge  submerged  blocks  of 
stone  in  Glenorchy  parish,  Argyllshire,  extending  a  con- 
siderable distance  into  Loch  Awe,  a  little  to  the  N  of 
Cladich.  They  are  traditionally  said  to  be  part  of  the 
foundation  of  an  intended  ancient  bridge  across  the  lake. 

Druids'  Hill.    See  Dundroich. 

Druie.     See  Duthil. 

Druim.     See  Dhruim. 

Drum,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Libertou  parish, 
Edinburghshire,  ^  mile  SE  of  Gilmerton.  Long  held 
by  the  Lords  Somerville,  the  thirteenth  of  whom  built 
the  present  house  towards  the  middle  of  last  century,  it 
now  is  the  property  of  John  More  Nisbett,  Esq.  of 
Cairnhill,  who  owns  270  acres  in  Midlothian,  valued 
at  £951  per  annum. 

Drumachargan,  a  conical,  copse-clad  hill  (512  feet) 
in  Monzievaird  and  Strowan  parish,  Perthshire,  near  the 
left  bank  of  the  Tay,  1 J  mile  WNW  of  CrieH". 

Drumadoon.    See  Drimadoon. 

Drumalban.    See  Grampians. 

Drumbaig.     See  Assynt. 

Drumbeg.     See  Drymen. 

Drumblade,  a  parish  of  NW  Aberdeenshire,  whose 
church  stands  4^  miles  E  by  N  of  Huntly,  under  which 
there  is  a  post  office  of  Drumblade. 

The  parish,  containing  al.so  Huntly  station,  is  bounded 
NE  and  E  by  Forgue,  SE  bv  Lisch,  SW  by  Gartly,  W 

871 


DBUMBLAIB 

and  NW  by  Huntly.  Its  greatest  length,  from  N  to  S, 
is  5§  miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is  5-J 
miles  ;  and  its  area  is  9332i  acres.  The  Bogie  winds  3§ 
miles  northward  along  the  Gartly  and  Iluntly  border  ; 
and  Glen  Water,  a  head-stream  of  the  Ury,  1^  mile 
east-north-eastward  along  all  the  boundary  w-ith  Insch  ; 
whilst  several  burns  cither  traverse  the  interior  or  trace 
the  remaining  boundaries.  The  surface,  sinking  in  the 
NE  along  the  Burn  of  Forguo  to  306  feet  above  sea- 
level,  thence  rises  to  671  feet  near  Garrieswell,  637  at 
Boghead,  700  at  Bx  Hill,  716  at  Woodbank,  and  906 
near  Upper  Stonyfield,  the  southern  division  of  the 
parish  being  occupied  by  a  series  of  gently-rounded  hills. 
Clay-slate,  grey  granite,  and  trap  are  the  prevailing 
rocks  ;  and  masses  of  limestone  occur  to  the  E  of  Lessen- 
drum.  The  soil,  in  the  valleys,  is  chiefly  a  deep  rich 
loam  ;  on  the  higher  grounds,  it  is  thin  and  gravelly, 
but  fairly  fertile.  Fully  three-fourths  of  the  entire  area 
are  arable,  extensive  reclamations  having  been  carried 
out  within  the  last  fifty  years ;  woods  cover  about 
one-sixteenth  ;  and  the  rest  is  either  pastoral  or  waste. 
The  chief  historic  event  is  Bruce's  encampment  at  Sliach 
in  1307,  when,  sick  though  he  was,  he  held  Comyn's 
forces  in  check  ;  and  Robin's  Height  and  the  Meet  Hil- 
lock are  supposed  to  have  been  occupied  by  his  troops.  A 
Roman  road  is  said  to  have  run  past  Meikletown  ;  and 
antiquities  are  two  prehistoric  tumuli,  a  few  remaining 
stones  of  a  '  Druidical '  circle,  and  the  Well  of  St  Hilary, 
the  patron  saint,  which  was  formerly  resorted  to  by 
pilgrims.  Lessendrum  is  the  only  mansion  ;  and  3 
proprietors  divide  most  of  the  parish.  Drumblade  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Turrift'  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the 
living  is  worth  £206.  The  parish  churcli,  built  in  1773, 
contains  550  sittings  ;  and  1  mile  SW  stands  a  Free 
church.  A  public  and  a  girls'  and  industrial  school, 
with  respective  accommodation  for  99  and  51  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  31  and  50,  whilst 
the  latter  received  a  grant  of  £38,  15s.  Valuation 
(1881)  £8533,  4s.  8d.  Pop.  (1801)  821,  (1831)  978, 
(1861)  926,  (1871)  931,  (1881)  9i3.— Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  86, 
1876. 

Drumblair,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion,  in 
Forgue  parish,  W  Aberdeenshire,  10  miles  ENE  of 
Huntly. 

Drumcarrow.    See  Cameron. 

Drum  Castle,  a  mansion  in  Drumoak  parish,  Aber- 
deenshire, 1  mile  NAV  of  Drum  station  on  the  Deeside 
railway,  this  being  10  miles  WSW  of  Aberdeen.  The 
house  itself  is  a  large  Elizabethan  edifice,  built  in  1619, 
and  adjoins  a  three-story,  massive  granite  keep,  the 
Tower  of  Drum,  which,  dating  from  the  12th  or  13th 
century,  measures  60  by  40  feet,  and  is  63  feet  high, 
with  walls  12  feet  in  thickness.  This  was  the  royal 
fortalice  conferred,  with  the  Forest  of  Drum,  in  1323,  by 
Robert  Bruce,  on  his  armour-bearer.  Sir  William  de 
Irvine,  whose  grandson.  Sir  Alexander,  commanded  and 
fell  at  Haklaw  (1411),  whilst  his  thirteenth  descendant, 
also  a  Sir  Alexander  (d.  1687),  has  been  identified  with 
the  '  Laird  o'  Drum '  of  a  good  old  ballad.  The  present 
and  twenty-first  laird,  Alexander  Forbes  Irvine,  Esq. 
(b.  1818  ;  sue.  1861),  holds  7689  acres  in  tlic  shire, 
valued  at  £5210  per  annum.  The  Hill  of  Drum,  extend- 
ing west-south-westward  from  the  mansion,  rises  gra- 
dually, on  all  sides,  from  gently  undulated  low  ground 
to  an  elevation  of  414  feet  above  sea-level,  and  from  its 
SE  shoulder  commands  an  extensive  view.  At  its 
south-western  base,  1^  mile  W  of  Park  station,  lies  the 
shallow,  weedy  Loch  of  Drum  (6  x  2.V  furl. ;  225  feet), 
which,  receiving  a  streamlet  from  Banchory-Ternan, 
sends  off  its  eflluence  southward  to  the  Dee. — Orel.  Sur., 
shs.  76,  GG,  1874-71. 

Drumcharry,  a  hamlet  in  Fortingal  parish,  Perth- 
shire, i>n  the  left  bank  of  the  Lyon,  7i  miles  W  of 
Ab.n-fd.ly. 

Drumclog,  a  wide  boggy  moorland  tract  in  Avondale 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  near  the  Ayrshire  border,  and  6 
miles  SW  of  Strathaven.  Here  stands  a  somewhat 
showy  monument,  inscribed,  'In  commemoration  of  tlie 
victory  obtained  on  this  battlefield,  on  Sabbath  the 
"372 


DRUMGELLOCH 

lltli  of  June  1679,  by  our  Covenanted  forefathers  over 
Graham  of  Claverhouse  and  his  dragoons.'  On  29  May 
1679,  eighty  horsemen  hnd  affixed  to  Rutherglcn  market- 
cross  the  '  Declaration  and  Testimony  of  the  True  Pres- 
byterian Party  in  Scotland,'  and,  following  up  this 
public  defiance,  an  armed  conventicle  met  on  11  June 
on  the  boggy  slope  of  conical  Loudon  Hill,  where 
Bruce,  370  years  before,  had  defeated  the  English  in- 
vader. Service  was  scarce  begun,  when  the  watchers 
brought  word  that  Claverhouse  was  at  hand,  and,  the 
congregation  breaking  up,  the  armed  men  moved  off  to 
the  farm  of  Drumclog,  2^  miles  to  the  eastward.  Two 
hundred  or  more  in  number,  all  well  armed  with  fusils 
and  pitchforks,  and  forty  of  them  mounted,  they  were 
officered  by  Hall  of  Haughhead,  Robert  Fleming,  Balfour 
of  Burley,  and  Hackston  of  Rathillet,  who  wisely  took 
up  position  behind  a  cleft,  where  lay  the  water  of  a 
ditch  or  'stank.'  Across  this  cleft  the  skirmishers  of 
either  side  kept  firing ;  the  question  appeared  to  be, 
which  would  cross  first,  or  which  hold  longest  out ; 
when  suddenly  two  parties  of  the  Covenanters,  one 
headed  by  young  William  Cleland  the  poet,  swept  round 
both  ends  of  the  stank  with  so  much  fury  that  the 
dragoons  could  not  sustain  the  shock,  but  broke  and 
fled,  leaving  thirty-six  dead  on  the  field,  where  only 
three  of  their  antagonists  were  killed.  Such  was  Drum- 
clog, preceded  by  Magus  Muir,  followed  by  Bothwell 
Brig,  an  episode  immortalised  by  Scott  in  Old  Mortality, 
sung  too  by  Allan  Cunningham,  and  thus  alluded  to  by 
Carlyle,  under  date  April  1820: — 'Drumclog  Moss  is 
the  next  object  I  remember,  and  Irving  and  I  sitting  by 
ourselves  under  the  silent  bright  skies  among  the  "peat- 
hags,"  with  a  world  all  silent  around  us.  These  peat- 
hags  are  still  pictured  in  me  ;  brown  bog  all  pitted  and 
broken  into  heathy  remnants  and  bare  abrupt  wide 
holes,  4  or  5  feet  deep,  mostly  dry  at  present ;  a  flat 
wilderness  of  broken  bog,  of  (juagmire  not  to  be  trusted 
(probably  w^etter  in  old  days  there,  and  wet  still  in  rainy 
seasons).  Clearly  a  good  place  for  Cameronian  preach- 
ing, and  dangerously  difiicult  for  Claverse  and  horse 
soldiery  if  the  suffering  remnant  had  a  few  old  muskets. 
...  I  remember  us  sitting  on  the  brow  of  a  peat-hag, 
the  sun  shining,  our  own  voices  the  one  sound.  Far,  far 
away  to  the  westward  over  our  brown  horizon,  towers 
up  white  and  visible  at  the  many  miles  of  distance  a 
high  irregular  pyramid.  "Ailsa  Craig,"  we  at  once 
guessed,  and  thought  of  the  seas  and  oceans  away  yon- 
der.'—On/.  Sur.,  shs.  22,  23,  1865.  See  W.  Alton's 
History  of  the  Rencounter  at  Dnmidog  (Hamilton,  1821) ; 
voh  vii. ,  pp.  221-226,  of  Hill  Burton's  History  of  Scot- 
land (ed.  1876) ;  and  vol.  i.,  p.  178,  of  Carlyle's  Remini- 
scences (1881). 

Drumcoltran,  an  old,  strong,  square  tower  in  Kirk- 
gunzeon  parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire. 

Drumderfit,  a  ridge  of  hill  (482  feet)  in  Kilmuir- 
Wester  parish,  Ross-shire,  4  miles  N  by  W  of  Inveruass. 
The  ridge,  which  projects  from  the  N  side  of  Ord  Hill, 
was  the  scene  about  1400  of  the  destruction  of  an  army 
of  the  Lord  of  the  Isles,  by  a  stratagem  and  a  night 
attack  on  the  part  of  the  men  of  Inverness ;  and  is 
extensively  studded  with  cairns. 

Drumderg,  a  jiromiuent  hill  (1250  feet)  in  Loth  parish, 
Sutherland,  flanking  the  head  of  Glen  Loth,  and  forming 
the  southern  shoulder  of  Beinn  Dobhrain  (2060  feet). 
The  glen  at  its  foot  was  the  scene  in  the  16th  century 
of  a  bloody  conflict  between  the  inhabitants  of  Loth 
and  the  men  of  Strathnavcr. 

Driunellie  or  Marlee  Loch,  a  lake  in  Lethendy  parish, 
Perthshire,  2;^  miles  W  by  S  of  Pilairgowrie.  An  expan- 
sion of  the  river  Lunan,  it  lies  190  feet  above  sea-level, 
has  an  utmost  length  and  width  of  1  mile  and  3;|  fur- 
longs, and  teems  with  perch  and  pike,  the  latter  running 
up  to  30  lbs.  Its  trout,  of  from  2  to  5  lbs. ,  are  very 
shy.— 0/v/.  Sur.,  sh.  56,  1870. 

brumelzier.     See  Duummklzieu. 

Drumgeith,  a  village,  with  a  public  school,  in  Dun- 
dee parish,  Forfarshire,  3  miles  ENE  of  Dundee. 

Drumgelloch,  a  village  in  New  Monklaud  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  7  furlongs  E  of  Airdric. 


DRUMGLOW 

Drmnglow  or  Dumglow.     See  Cleisii. 

Drumgray,  a  village  in  New  Monklaud  parish,  Lanark- 
shire, 4  miles  ENE  of  Airdrie. 

Drumin,  a  mansion  in  Inveraven  parish,  Banffshire, 
between  the  confluent  Livet  and  Aven,  5  miles  S  of  Bal- 
lindalloch.     Close  to  it  are  the  ruins  of  Castle-Duumik. 

Dmmimior  House.     See  ArcniNDOiu  and  Keakx. 

Drumkilbo,  an  estate,  ^yith  a  mansion,  in  Meigle  par- 
ish, E  Perthshire,  9  furlongs  E  by  N  of  ileigle  village. 

Drumlamford,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion  of  1838,  in 
Colmonell  parish,  S  Ayrshire,  4  miles  SE  of  Barrhill 
station.     Near  it  is  Drumlamford  Loch  (2  x  1^  furl.). 

Drumlanrig  Castle,  a  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch 
in  Durisdeer  parish.  Upper  Nithsdale,  Dumfriesshire, 
17  miles  NW  of  Dumfries,  and  3h  NNW  of  Thornhill. 
It  crowns  the  last  spur  of  a  drmti  or  long  ridge  of 
hill,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nith  ;  and,  visible  from 
afar,  stately,  embowered  in  trees,  itself  has  a  view  do^^^l 
all  the  Nith's  rich  valley,  away  to  the  heights  of 
Criffel.  It  forms  a  hollow  square,  four  stories  high, 
surmounted  with  corner  turrets,  and  presenting  such 
an  array  of  windows,  that,  say  the  dalesfolk,  there 
are  as  many  as  the  year  has  days.  From  the-  inner 
quadrangle  staircases  ascend  at  the  angles  in  semicircular 
towers ;  \vithout,  the  architraves  of  windows  and  doors 
are  profusely  adorned  with  hearts  and  stars,  the  armorial 
bearings  of  the  Douglases.  The  castle  fronts  N,  but  has 
also  a  noble  fagade  to  the  E,  combining  on  either  side 
aspects  of  strength  and  beautj',  the  lineaments  of  a 
mansion  and  a  fortress  ;  herein,  too,  that  it  is  nightly 
secured,  not  only  by  a  thick  door  of  oak,  but  by  a  pon- 
derous gate  of  iron.  Falsely  ascribed  to  Inigo  Jones, 
like  Heriot's  Hospital,  which  it  no  little  resembles,  the 
present  castle  took  ten  years  in  building,  and  was 
finished  in  16S9,  the  year  after  the  Revolution.  "Wil- 
liam, first  Duke  of  Queensberry — celebrated  in  civil 
history  as  a  statesman,  and  in  the  annals  of  the  Cove- 
nanters as  an  abettor  of  persecution — planned  and  com- 
pleted it ;  and  he  expended  upon  it  such  enormous  sums 
of  money,  and  during  the  only  night  that  he  passed 
within  its  walls,  was  so  'exacerbated  by  the  inaccessi- 
bility of  medical  advice  to  relieve  him  from  a  temporary 
fit  of  illness,'  that  he  quitted  it  in  disgust,  and  after- 
wards wrote  on  the  bills  for  its  erection,  '  The  Deil  pike 
out  his  een  wha  looks  herein  ! '  Among  seventeen  por- 
traits, by  Lely  and  Kneller  mostly,  one  of  William  III. 
bears  marks  of  claymore  wounds — a  memorial  of  the 
Highlanders'  brief  sojourn  in  the  castle  on  their  retreat 
from  Derby  (1745).  The  barony  of  Drumlanrig  belonged 
to  the  Douglases  as  early  at  least  as  1356,  and  for  four 
centuries  passed  from  father  to  son  with  only  a  single 
break  (1578),  and  then  from  grandsire  to  grandson.  In 
1388  James,  second  Earl  of  Douglas,  conferred  it  on  the 
elder  of  his  two  natural  sons.  Sir  William  de  Douglas, 
first  Baron  of  Drumlanrig,  whose  namesake  and  ninth 
descendant  was  created  Viscount  of  Drumlanrig  in  1628 
and  Earl  of  Queensberry  in  1633.  William,  third  Earl 
(1637-95)  was  created  Duke  of  Queensberry  and  Earl  of 
Drumlanrig  in  1684  ;  and  Charies,  third  Duke  (1698- 
1778),  was  succeeded  by  his  first  cousin,  William,  third 
Eari  of  March  and  Ruglen  (1725-1810).  'Old  Q,'  that 
spoiler  of  woods  and  patron  of  the  turf,  the  '  degenerate 
Douglas'  of  Wordsworth's  indignant  sonnet,  was  in 
turn  succeeded  by  Henry,  third  Duke  of  Buccleuch, 
great-grandson  of  the  second  Duke  of  Queensberry  ;  and 
his  grandson,  the  fifth  and  present  Duke,  is  seventeenth 
in  descent  from  Sir  AVilliam,  the  first  baron,  and  owns 
in  Dumfriesshire  253,514  acres,  valued  at  £97,530  per 
annum.  (See  Dalkeith.)  Among  the  episodes  in 
Drumlanrig's  history  are  its  pillage  by  the  English 
under  Lord  AVliarton  (1549),  an  entertainment  given  at 
it  to  James  VI.  (1  Aug.  1617),  its  capture  by  the  Par- 
liamentarians (1650),  and  Burns's  frequent  visits  to  its 
chamberiain,  John  M'Murdo  (1788-96).  From  1795  till 
liis  death  '  Old  Q.'  ■v\Tought  hideous  havoc  in  the  woods, 
here  as  at  Neidpath  ;  so  that  the  hills  wliich  Ikirns  had 
known  clad  ■ndth  forest,  AVordsworth  in  1803  found 
bleak  and  naked.  The  castle,  too,  unoccupied  by  its 
lords  for  upwards  of  forty  years,  fell  into  disrepair,  but 


DKUMMELZIEB 

the  present  Duke,  on  attaining  his  majority  in  1827,  at 
once  took  in  hand  the  work  of  restoration  and  replant- 
ing, so  that  the  castle,  woods,  and  gardens  of  Drum- 
lanrig are  now  once  more  the  glory  of  Upper  Nithsdale 
— the  woods,  which  retain  a  few  survivors  from  the 
past  (finest  among  these,  two  oaks,  two  beeches,  a 
sycamore,  and  the  limetree  avenue  of  1754) ;  and  the 
gardens  and  policies,  which  were  thus  described  by 
Pennant  (1772) :  '  The  beauties  of  Drumlanrig  are  not 
confined  to  the  highest  part  of  the  grounds  ;  the  walks, 
for  a  very  considerable  way  by  the  sides  of  the  Nith, 
abound  with  most  picturesque  and  various  scenery. 
Below  the  bridge  the  sides  are  prettily  wooded,  but  not 
remarkably  lofty  ;  above,  the  views  become  wildly  mag- 
nificent. The  river  runs  through  a  deep  and  rocky 
channel,  bounded  by  vast  wooded  cliffs  that  rise  sud- 
denly from  its  margin  ;  and  the  prospect  down  from  the 
summit  is  of  a  terrific  depth,  increased  by  the  rolling  of 
the  black  waters  beneath.  Two  views  are  particularly 
fine — one  of  quick  repeated  but  extensive  meanders 
amidst  broken  sharp-pointed  rocks,  which  often  divide 
the  river  into  several  channels,  interrupted  by  a  short 
and  foaming  rapids  coloured  with  a  moory  taint ;  the 
other  is  of  a  long  strait,  narrowed  by  the  sides,  precipi- 
tous and  wooded,  approaching  each  other  equidistant, 
horrible  from  the  blackness  and  fury  of  the  river,  and 
the  fiery-red  and  black  colours  of  the  rocks,  that  have 
all  the  ap)pearance  of  having  sustained  a  change  by  the 
rage  of  another  element.'  The  Glasgow  and  South- 
western railway,  a  little  N  of  Carronbridge  station, 
traverses  a  stupendous  tunnel  on  the  Drumlanrig 
grounds,  4200  feet  in  length,  and  nearly  200  feet  be- 
neath the  surface,  \nth  an  archway  measuring  27  feet 
by  29.  —Ord.  Sur. ,  shs.  15,  9,  1864-63.  See  Dr  Craufurd 
Tait  Ramage's  Drumlanrig  Castle  and  the  Douglases 
(Dumf.  1876). 

Drumlean,  a  hamlet  in  Aberfoyle  parish,  Perthshire, 
near  the  NE  shore  of  Loch  Ard,  3  miles  WNAY  of  Aber- 
foyle hamlet. 

Drumlemble.    See  Campbeltowx. 

Drumlithie,  a  village  in  Glenbervie  parish,  Kincar- 
dineshire, with  a  station  on  the  Caledonian  railway,  7^ 
miles  SW  of  Stonehaven.  At  it  are  a  post  office  imder 
Fordoun,  Avith  railway  telegi-aph,  a  school,  Glenbervie 
Free  church,  and  St  John's  Episcopal  church  (1863),  a 
Gothic  edifice,  with  organ  and  two  stained-glass  win- 
dows. 

Drummachloy,  Glenmore,  or  Ettrick  Bum.   See  Bute. 

Drummellan,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Maybole 
parish,  Ayrshire,  1^  mile  NE  of  Maybole  town. 

Drummellie.     See  Deumellie. 

Drummelzier,  a  decayed  village  and  a  parish  of  SW 
Peeblesshire.  The  village,  standing  ujion  Powsail  Burn, 
^  mile  above  its  influx  to  the  Tweed,  is  2|  miles  SE  of 
Broughton  station,  8  ESE  of  its  post-town  Biggar,  3 
WSW  of  Stobo  station,  and  9i  WSAV  of  Peebles. 

The  parish  included  Tweedsmuir  till  1643,  and  since 
1742  has  comprehended  the  southern  and  larger  portion 
of  the  old  parish  of  Dawick.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Stobo, 
E  by  Manor,  SE  by  the  Megget  section  of  Lj'ne,  S  by 
Tweedsmuir,  and  W  by  Crawford  and  Culter  in  Lanark- 
shire and  by  Broughton.  In  outline  rudely  resembling 
a  boot,  with  heel  at  SE  and  toe  at  SW,  it  has  an  utmost 
length  of  11 J  miles  from  its  north-eastern  angle  near 
Stobo  station  to  its  soutli-wcstern  near  Coomb  Dod,  an 
utmost  breadth  from  E  to  AV  of  6 J  mi  les,  and  an  area  of 
18,029^  acres,  of  which  81  are  water.  For  5f  miles 
the  silver  Tweed,  entering  from  Tweedsmuir  3  furlongs 
below  Crook  inn,  meanders  north-by-eastward  across  the 
south-western  interior  and  on  or  close  to  the  boundary 
with  Broughton,  next  for  33  miles  east-by-northward 
along  most  of  tlie  Stobo  border.  During  this  course  it 
falls  from  about  740  to  590  feet  above  sea-level,  and  is 
joined  by  five  streams  that  rise  in  Drummelzier — Pol- 
mood  Burn  (running  4  miles  WNW,  mostly  along  the 
Tweedsmuir  bonier),  Kingledoors  Burn  (5|  miles  NE), 
Stanhojie  Burn  (4i  miles  WNW),  Carton  Burn  (2^  miles 
W  by  N),  and  Powsail  Burn  (IJ  mile  NW),  this  last 
being  formed  by  Drummelzier  IJurn  (2j|  miles  NW)  and 

373 


DRUMMIDOON 

Scrape  Bum  (2^  miles  WNW).  The  surface  sinks,  then, 
to  590  feet  at  the  north-eastern  angle  of  the  parish,  and 
rises  thence  southward  and  south-westward  to  *  Breach 
Law  (16S4  feet),  Scawd  Law  (1658),  Den  Knowes(1479), 
Finglen  Rig  (1295),  Dulyard  Brae  (1609),  the  *  Scrape 
(23-17),  *Pvkestone  Hill  (2414),  Drummelzier  Law  (2191), 
Glenstivon  Dod  (2256),  Craig  Head  (1550),  *Long  Grain 
Knowo  (2306),  Taberon  Law  (2088),  *  Dollar  Law 
(2680),  Lairdside  Knowe  (1635),  Polmood  Hill  (1548), 
Birkside  Law  (1951),  Hunt  Law  (2096),  Dun  Rig  (2149), 
*Dun  Law  (2584),  *Cramalt  Craig  (2723),  and  *Broad 
Law  (2723),  on  the  right  or  E  side  of  the  Tweed  ;  and, 
on  the  left,  to  Quilt  Hill  (1087),  *Glcnlood  Hill  (1856), 
Nether  Oliver  Dod  (1673),  *  Coomb  Hill  (2096),  *Glen- 
whappcn  Rig  (2262),  Hillshaw  Head  (2141),  and  *  Coomb 
Dod  (2082),  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits  that 
culminate  on  the  borders  of  the  parisli.  These  big 
bro^vn  hills  fill  nearly  all  the  parish  ;  only  to  the  NW 
the  Plain  of  Drummelzier,  a  fertile  alluvial  haugh,  ex- 
tends for  about  2  miles  along  the  Tweed,  being,  it  is 
said,  the  largest  level  space  on  the  river  above  Kelso. 
The  rocks  are  mainly  Lower  Silurian,  and  include  some 
workable  slate  and  a  mass  of  compact  and  very  white 
limestone.  The  soil  is  rich  loam  on  the  haughs,  and 
elsewhere  is  generally  sharp  and  strong.  The  entire 
area  is  either  pastoral  or  waste,  with  the  exception  of 
barely  700  acres  in  tillage  and  a  little  over  400  under 
wood,  the  latter  chiefly  on  the  Dawick  estate.  Drum- 
melzier Castle,  cro\vning  a  rocky  knoll  on  the  Tweed,  1 
mile  SW  of  the  church,  is  a  sheltered  fragment  of  the 
16th  century  fortalice  of  the  head  of  the  Tweedie  sept  ; 
and  on  the  top  of  a  high  pyramidal  mount,  3|  furlongs 
E  by  N  of  the  church,  are  vestiges  of  the  more  ancient 
Tinnies  or  Thanes  Castle,  demolished  by  order  of  James 
VL  in  1592.  'At  the  side  of  the  Powsail  Burn,' to 
quote  from  Pennicuik's  Description  of  Tivcediale  (1715), 
'  a  little  below  the  churchyard,  the  famous  prophet 
Merlin  is  said  to  be  buried.  The  particular  place  of  his 
grave,  at  the  foot  of  a  thorn  tree,  was  shown  me,  many 
year  ago,  by  the  old  and  reverend  minister  of  the  place, 
Mr  Richard  Brown  ;  and  here  was  the  old  prophecy  ful- 
filled, delivered  in  Scotch  rhyme  to  this  purpose : 

'  "  When  Tweed  and  Po«-sail  meet  at  Merlin's  grave, 
Scotland  and  England  shall  one  monarch  have ; " 

for  the  same  day  that  our  King  James  the  Sixth  was 
crowned  King  of  England,  the  river  Tweed,  by  an  extra- 
ordinary flood,  so  far  overflowed  the  banks,  that  it  met 
and  joined  with  Powsail  at  the  said  grave,  which  was 
never  before  observed  to  fall  out,  nor  since  that  time. ' 
Dawick  House  is  the  chief  mansion  ;  and  the  property 
is  divided  among  five.  Drummelzier  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Peebles  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £319.  St  Cuthbert's  chapel,  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  strath  of  Kingledoors,  has  disappeared ; 
the  present  church,  at  the  village,  contains  nearly  200 
sittings  ;  and  a  public  school,  with  accommodation  for 
44  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  31,  and 
a  grant  of  £40,  15s.  6d.  Valuation  (1881)  £4579, 
13s.  3d.  Pop.  (1801)  278,  (1831)  223,  (1861)  209, 
(1871)  221,  (1881)  208.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  24,  1864. 

Drummidoon.    See  Diiimapoon. 

Dnimmilling,  an  estate  in  West  Kilbride  parish,  Ayr- 
shire, near  the  village. 

Drummin.     See  Drumin  and  Ca.stle-Drumin. 

Drummochy,  a  village  on  the  seaboard  of  Largo  parish, 
Fife,  a  little  W  of  Largo  station. 

Dnunmond  Castle,  the  Scottish  scat  of  Lady  Wil- 
loughby  dc  Ercsby,  in  jMuthill  parish,  Perthshire,  on  a 
picturesque  rocky  site,  3^  miles  SSW  of  Crieff,  and  3;/ 
WNW  of  Muthifl  station.  It  was  founded  in  1491  by 
the  first  Lord  Drummond,  on  his  removal  from  Stob- 
IIALL  ;  and  was  the  seat  of  tliat  nobleman's  descendants, 
the  Earls  of  Perth.  The  founder  of  the  Drummond 
family  is  said  to  have  been  one  Alauricc,  a  Hungarian 
noble,  who  in  1067  arrived  witli  Eadgar  iEtheling  and 
St  Margaret  at  the  court  of  Malcolm  Ceannmor,  and 
who  from  that  king  received  the  lands  of  Drymen  or 
Drummond  in  Stirlingshire.  His  sixth  descendant.  Sir 
374 


DRUMMORE 

Malcolm  Drummond,  was  rewarded  by  Bruce  with  lands 
in  Perthshire  for  services  done  at  Bannockburn  (1314), 
where  he  advised  the  use  of  caltrops  against  the  enemy's 
horse — advice  referred  to  in  the  family  motto,  '  Gang 
warily.'  Annabella  Drummond  (1340-1401),  }iis  great- 
grand-daughter,  was  queen  to  Robert  IIL,  and  so  the 
ancestress  of  Queen  Victoria  ;  and  Sir  John  Drummond 
(1446-1519),  twelfth  in  descent  from  the  founder,  was 
lather  to  fair  Mistress  Margret,  the  vriie  but  not  queen 
of  James  IV.,  who,  with  her  sisters  Euphemia  and 
Sybilla,  was  poisoned  at  Drummond  Castle  in  1502. 
The  same  Sir  John  was  created  Lord  Drummond  in 
1487  ;  and  James,  fourth  Lord  Drummond,  was  created 
Earl  of  Perth  in  1605.  James,  fourth  Earl  (1648-1716), 
was,  like  his  predecessors,  a  zealous  Royalist,  and  fol- 
lowed James  II.  into  exile,  from  him  receiving  the  title 
of  Duke  of  Perth.  His  grandson,  James,  third  titular 
Duke  of  Perth  (1713-46),  played  a  prominent  part  in 
the  '45,  commanding  at  Prestonpans,  Carlisle,  Falkirk, 
and  Culloden.  The  Drummond  estates,  forfeited  to  the 
Crown,  were  conferred  by  George  III.  in  1784  on  Captain 
James  Drummond,  who  claimed  to  be  heir-male  of  Lord 
John  Drummond,  this  third  Duke's  brother,  and  who 
in  1797  was  created  Baron  Perth  and  Drummond  of  Stob- 
hall.  At  his  death  in  1800  they  passed  to  his  daughter, 
Clementina-Sarah,  who  in  1807  married  the  Hon.  Peter 
Burrell,  afterwards  nineteenth  Baron  Willoughby  de 
Eresby ;  and  their  daughter,  Clementina  Elizabeth 
Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby  (b.  1809),  widow  of 
Lord  Aveland,  Baroness  Willoughby  de  Eresby,  and 
Joint  Hereditary  Chamberlain  of  England,  in  1870 
succeeded  her  brother  in  the  Drummond  estates,  which 
from  1868  to  1871  were  unsuccessfully  claimed  by  George 
Drummond,  Earl  of  Perth  and  Melfort,  as  nearest  heii'- 
male  of  the  third  Duke.  Her  Ladyship  owns  in  Perth- 
shire 76,837  acres,  valued  at  £28,955  per  annum. 

Drummond  Castle  is  twofold,  old  and  modern.  The 
old  edifice  was  visited  often  by  James  IV.,  and  twice  by 
Queen  Mary  in  July  and  the  Christmas  week  of  1566. 
It  suff"ered  great  damage  from  the  troops  of  Cromwell, 
and  fell  into  neglect  and  dilapidation  after  the  Revolu- 
tion of  1688  ;  but  was  strengthened  and  garrisoned  by 
the  royal  troops  in  1715,  and,  that  this  might  not  happen 
again,  was  mostly  levelled  to  the  foundation  by  the 
Jacobite  Duchess  of  Perth  in  1745.  Partially  rebuilt 
about  1822,  it  was  put  into  good  habitable  condition, 
])reparatory  to  a  visit  of  Queen  Victoria  and  Prince 
xVlbert  in  Sept.  1842  ;  and  now  is  partly  fitted  up  as  an 
armoury,  well  stored  with  Celtic  claymores,  battle-axes, 
and  targets.  The  modern  edifice,  standing  a  little  E  of 
the  old,  forms  two  sides  of  a  quadrangle,  facing  N  and 
W  ;  and  is  of  plain  construction,  comparatively  poor  in 
architectural  character ;  but  contains  some  interesting 
portraits  of  the  Stuarts.  A  temporary  wooden  pavilion, 
within  the  quadrangle,  served  as  a  banqueting  hall  dur- 
ing the  visit  of  the  Queen  and  Prince  Albert ;  and  an 
apartment  in  wliich  Prince  Charles  Edward  had  slept, 
served  as  Prince  Albert's  dressing-room.  A  beautiful 
garden,  often  pronounced  the  finest  in  Great  Britain, 
lies  in  three  successive  terraces,  on  a  steep  slope,  under 
the  S  side  of  the  castle  rock  ;  comprises  about  10  acres  ; 
and  exhibits  the  three  great  styles  of  European  liorticul- 
ture — tlie  Italian,  the  Dutch,  and  the  French.  A  nobly- 
wooded  park  *  about  2  miles  in  diameter,  witli  many  a 
feature  of  both  natural  beauty  and  artificial  embellisli- 
inent,  spreads  all  round  tlie  castle,  as  from  a  centre. 
Within  it  are  the  conical  hill  of  Torhmi  (1291  feet),  l^ 
mile  to  the  WNW  ;  and  the  Pond  of  Drummond  (5  x  2| 
furl.),  h  mile  to  the  ENE.  The  exquisite  scenery  of 
Stratliearn  lies  under  the  eye  and  away  to  the  E  ;  and  a 
sublime  sweep  of  the  Grampians  fills  all  tlie  view  to  the 
N. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  47,  1869.  See  Beauties  of  U2)i)cr 
Strathcarn  (3d  ed.,  Crieff,  1870). 

Drummore.     See  Drumore. 

*  The  Transactions  of  the  Uighland  and  Agricultural  Societt/ 
for  ISSO-Sl  give  the  dimensiona  of  twelve  magnificent  beechca 
here  and  seven  oaks,  according  to  which  the  tallest  of  the  beeches 
is  101  feet  high  and  15  feet  in  girth  at  1  foot  from  the  groinid,  the 
thickest  being  2!)  feet  in  girtli  and  71  feet  high;  whilst  of  the  oaka 
the  largest  is  70  feet  high  and  I'Ji  in  girth. 


DRUMMOSSIE  MUIR 

Drmmnossie  Muir,  a  bleak,  broad-backed,  sandstone 
ridge  on  the  mutual  border  of  Dores,  Inverness,  Daviot, 
and  Croy  parishes,  ISTE  Inverness-shire.  Forming  the 
north-eastern  and  declining  portion  of  the  continuous 
south-eastern  hill-screen  of  the  Great  Glen  of  Scotland, 
it  presents  to  the  view,  from  the  neighbourhood  of  In- 
verness, an  almost  straight  sky-line  ;  has  an  average 
summit  elevation  of  800  feet  above  sea-level ;  and  in- 
cludes, at  tlie  NE  end,  the  battlefield  of  Culloden. 

Drum  muir.     See  Botiuphxie. 

Drumnadrochit,  a  hamlet,  with  an  hotel,  in  Urquhart 
and  Glenmoriston  parish,  Inverness-shire,  in  the  mouth 
of  Glen  Urquhart,  Ih  mile  W  by  S  of  Temple  Pier,  on 
the  AV  shore  of  Loch  Ness,  and  14  miles  SAV  of  Inver- 
ness, under  which  it  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments.  Cattle  fairs 
are  held  here  on  the  Tuesdays  of  October  and  November 
before  Beauly. 

Drumnetermont.     See  Dkummietermox. 

Drumoak,  a  parish  partly  in  Kincardine,  but  chiefly 
in  Aberdeenshire,  traversed  by  the  Deeside  section  of 
the  Great  North  of  Scotland,  with  Drum  and  Park 
stations  thereon,  10  and  11  miles  WSAV  of  Aberdeen, 
under  which  Drumoak  has  a  post  office.  It  is  bounded 
N  by  Echt  and  Peterculter,  SE  by  Peterculter,  S  by 
Dirrris,  and  SW  by  Banchory-Ternan  ;  and  rudely  re- 
sembling a  triangle  in  shape,  with  apex  to  ENE,  it  has 
an  utmost  length  from  E  to  AV  of  5^  miles,  an  utmost 
breadth  from  N  to  S  of  3J  miles,  and  an  area  of  7401:^ 
acres,  of  which  2021^^  are  in  Kincardineshire,  and  164J 
are  water.  The  broadening  Dee  flows  4^  miles  east- 
north-eastward  along  all  the  boundary  with  Durris ;  and 
Gormack  Burn  5|  miles  eastward  along  that  with  Echt 
and  Peterculter,  to  form  with  Leuchar  Bui'n  the  Burn  of 
Culter,  which  itself  for  J  mile  continues  to  separate  Drum- 
oak and  Peterculter.  Towards  the  SAV  the  shallow,  weedy 
Loch  of  Drum  (6  x  2J  furl. )  lies  at  an  altitude  of  225  feet. 
Sinking  along  the  Burn  of  Culter  to  123,  and  along  the 
Dee  to  82,  feet  above  sea-level,  the  surface  rises  to  350 
feet  on  Ord  Hill,  414  on  the  central  ridge  of  the  Hill  of 
Drum,  and  254  at  the  parish  church.  Gneiss  and  granite 
are  the  prevailing  rocks  ;  and  the  soil,  light  and  sandy 
along  the  Dee,  elsewhere  ranges  from  good  black  loamy 
on  the  higher  southern  slope  to  gravellj'  and  moorish 
overlying  moorband  or  retentive  blue  stony  clay.  Nearly 
a  fourth  of  the  entire  area  is  under  wood,  over  a  sixth 
is  pastoral  or  waste,  and  the  rest  is  in  cultivation.  James 
Gregory  (1638-75),  the  greatest  philosopher  of  his  age 
but  one,  that  one  being  Newton,  was  born  in  Drumoak, 
his  father  being  parish  minister ;  and  so  perhaps  was  his 
brother  David  (1627-1720),  who  himself  had  a  singular 
turn  for  mechanics  and  mathematics.  Arrow-heads, 
three  stone  coffins,  and  silver  coins  have  been  found ; 
a  curious  sculptured  stone  was  transferred  in  1822  from 
Keith's  Muir  to  the  top  of  Hawk  Hillock  in  the  policies 
of  Park  ;  but  the  chief  antiquity  is  the  Tower  of  Drum, 
which  is  separately  noticed,  as  likewise  are  the  man- 
sions of  Drum  and  Park.  Five  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  more,  and  3  of  less,  than  £100.  Drumoak 
is  in  the  presbytery  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  living 
is  worth  £230.  The  church,  ^  mile  N  of  Park  station, 
is  a  good  Gothic  edifice  of  1836,  containing  650  sittings ; 
and  a  Free  church,  erected  at  a  cost  of  £1500,  was  opened 
at  Park  in  January  1880.  Dn;moak  public,  Sunnyside 
female  Church  of  Scotland,  and  Glashmore  sessional 
school,  with  respective  accommodation  for  108,  33,  and 
49  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  63,  25, 
and  22,  and  grants  of  £61,  16s.,  £18,  2s.,  and  £15,  6.s. 
Valuation  (1881)  £5678,  19s.  8d.,  of  which  £1025, 
19s.  5d.  was  for  the  Kincardineshire  section.  Pop. 
(1801)  648,  (1831)  804,  (1861)  996,  (1871)  1032,  (1881) 
9B0.—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  76,  77,  66,  1871-76. 

Dnunochter  (Gael,  driiim-uachdar,  '  upper  ridge '),  a 
mountain  pass  (1500  feet)  over  the  Central  Grampians, 
on  the  mutual  border  of  Perth  and  Inverness  shires, 
5|  miles  S  of  Dalwhinnie  station,  and  2  NNW  of  Dal- 
naspidal.  Flanked  to  the  AV  by  the  Boar  of  Badenoch 
(2452  feet),  Bruach  nan  lomalrean  (3175),  and  Ben 
Udlaman  (3306),  to  the  W  by  Creagan  Doire  an  Donaidh 


DRUNKIE 

(2367)  and  Chaoruinn  (3004),  it  is  traversed  both  by 
the  Great  North  Road  from  Perth  to  Inverness  and  by 
the  Highland  railway,  being  the  highest  point  reached 
by  any  railway  in  the  Kingdom.  Snow  often  drifts 
here  to  a  great  extent,  lying  30  feet  deep  in  the  storm 
of  March  1881.— OrrZ.  Sur.,  sh.  63,  1873. 

Drumochy.     See  Drummochy. 

Drumore,  a  lochlet  (1  x  ^  furl.)  on  the  mutual  border 
of  Kirkmichael  and  ilaybole  parishes,  AjTshire,  ^  mile 
NNW  of  Kirkmichael  village. 

Drumore,  a  seaport  village  in  Kirkraaiden  parish, 
SAV  Wigtownshire,  on  a  small  bay  of  its  own  name,  at 
the  AV  side  of  Luce  Bay,  5  miles  N  by  AV  of  the  Mull  of 
Galloway,  and  17^  S  by  E  of  Stranraer,  with  which  it 
communicates  daily  by  coach.  It  has  a  post  office,  ^vith 
money  order  and  savings'  bank  departments,  4  inns,  a 
public  school,  a  small  harbour  with  a  (juay  and  good 
anchorage,  and  ruins  of  a  castle,  still  habitable  in  1684; 
and  it  carries  on  some  small  commerce  in  the  export  of 
agricultural  produce,  and  the  import  of  coals  and  lime. 

Drumore,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Prestonpans 
parish,  Haddingtonshire,  on  the  coast,  1|  mile  ENE  of 
Musselburgh.  Its  owner.  Col.  AVilliam  Aitchison  (b. 
1827  ;  sue.  1846),  holds  121  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £872  per  annum,  including  £538  for  minerals. 

Drumore,  a  station  at  the  mutual  boundary  of  Anwoth 
and  Kirkmabreck  parishes,  SW  Kirkcudbrightshire,  on 
the  Castle-Douglas  and  Portpatrick  railway,  4j  miles 
ENE  of  Creetown. 

Drumour.    See  Duxkeld,  Little. 

Drumpellier,  extensive  iron-works  and  mineral  pits 
of  Old  Monkland  parish,  Lanarkshire,  in  the  western 
■vicinity  of  Coatbridge.  Drumpellier  House,  IJ  mile 
AV  of  the  town,  is  the  property  of  D.  Carrick-Buchanan, 
Esq.  of  Caeradale,  who  holds  868  acres  in  Lanark- 
shire, valued  at  £500  per  annum. 

Drumry,  an  estate  on  the  AV  border  of  New  Kilpatrick 
parish,  Dumbartonshire,  2^  miles  ESE  of  Duntocher. 
From  the  Callendar  family  it  passed  in  1346  to  the 
Li\'ingstones,  and  from  Sir  James  Hamilton  of  F}Tiart 
in  1528  to  Laurence  Crawfurd  of  Kilbirnie,  ancestor  of 
the  Crawfurd-PoUoks  of  Pollok.  Some  ruins  on  it 
have  been  thought  to  be  those  of  a  chapel  which  he 
founded,  but  more  probably  are  a  remnant  of  Drumry 
Castle. 

Drumsargard  or  Drumsharg,  an  ancient  barony  in 
Cambuslang  parish,  Lanarkshire.  Comprising  nearly 
two-thirds  of  the  parish,  it  belonged  successively  to  the 
Oliphants,  Alurrays,  Douglases,  and  Hamiltons,  and 
changed  its  name  in  the  17th  century  to  Cambuslang. 
Its  stately  castle,  crowning  a  round  flat-topped  mound, 
20  feet  high.  If  mile  ESE  of  Cambuslang  church,  has 
left  scarcely  a  vestige. 

Drumsharg.     See  Drum.=iaegard. 

Drumshoreland,  a  station  and  a  moor  in  Uphall 
parish,  Linlithgowshire.  The  station  is  on  the  Edin- 
burgh and  Bathgate  section  of  the  North  British,  1  mUe 
S  of  Broxburn,  7|  miles  E  by  N  of  Bathgate,  and  Hi  AV 
of  Edinburgh.  The  moor,  extending  from  tlie  southern 
vicinity  of  the  station  to  the  Almond  or  Edinburgh- 
shire border,  comprises  some  200  acres  of  uncultivated 
land,  one-half  of  it  covered  with  natural  wood. 

Drumsleet.     See  Troqueer. 

Drumsturdy,  a  straggling  village  in  Monifieth  parish, 
Forfarsliire,  at  the  N  base  of  Laws  Hill,  6  miles  ENE 
of  Dundee. 

Drumtochty  Castle,  a  mansion  in  Fordoun  parish, 
Kincardineshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Luther  Water  near 
its  source,  1  mile  NNE  of  Strathfinella  HiU  (1358  feet), 
2  miles  AVNW  of  Auchinblae  village,  and  4J  NW  of 
Fordoun  station.  A  splendid  Gothic  edifice,  built  at  a 
cost  of  £30,000  from  designs  by  Gillespie  Graham,  and 
standing  in  finely-wooded  grounds,  it  is  the  scat  of  Major 
Andrew  Gammell  of  Countesswells,  who  holds  in  Kin- 
cardineshire 4823  acres,  valued  at  £2224,  9s.  per  annum. 

Drumvaich,  a  hamlet  in  Kilniadock  parish,  Perth- 
shire, on  the  left  bank  of  the  Teith,  4  miles  AVNAV  of 
Doune. 

Drunkie,  a  loch  on  the  mutual  border  of  Aberfoyle 

375 


DRYBRIDGE 

and  Port  of  Monteith  parishes,  Pertlisliire,  3  miles  NNE 
of  Aberfoyle  hamlet,  ami  3  SE  of  the  Trosachs  Hotel.  Ly- 
ing 450  feet  above  sea-level,  it  extends  9  furlongs  north- 
north-eastward  to  within  J  mile  of  Loch  YenaLhar,  and 
varies  in  width  between  1  and  7^  furlongs,  the  latter 
measured  along  a  narrow  westward  arm.  Its  shores 
are  prettily  wooded,  and  it  contains  tine  red-fleshed 
trout,  running  from  J  to  1  \h.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  38,  1871. 

Drybridge,  a  village  in  Whitburn  parish,  Linlithgow- 
shire, 1  mile  NE  of  the  meeting-point  of  Linlithgow, 
Edinburgh,  and  Lanark  shires,  and  within  f  mile  of 
Fauld house  and  Crofthead  stations. 

Drybridge,  a  station  in  Dundonald  parish,  AjTshire, 
on  the  Kilmarnock  and  Troon  railway,  5  miles  W  by  S 
of  Kilmarnock. 

Dryburgh  Abbey,  a  noble  monastic  ruin  in  Merton 
parish,  S\V  Berwickshire,  1^  mile  E  of  Newtown  St 
Boswell's  station,  and  4^  miles  ESE  of  Melrose,  or  6  by 
way  of  Bemersyde  Hill.  It  stands,  200  feet  above  sea- 
level,  in  the  midst  of  a  low  green  haugh,  that,  measur- 
ing 3|  by  2  J  furlongs,  is  sheltered  northward  by  a  woody 
hill  (588  feet),  and  on  the  other  three  sides  is  washed  by 
a  horseshoe  bend  of  'chiming  Tweed,'  whose  right  or 
opposite  bank  is  steep  and  copse-clad — beyond  it  the 
triple  Eildons  (1385  feet).  The  haugh  itself  is  an 
orchard,  dedicated  by  '  David,  Earl  of  Buchan,  to 
liis  most  excellent  Parents  ; '  and  the  ruins,  of  reddish- 
brown  sandstone,  hewn  from  the  quarry  of  Dryburgh, 
are  so  overgrown  with  foliage  that  'everywhere  you 
behold  the  usurpation  of  nature  over  art.  In  one 
roofless  apartment  a  fine  spruce  and  holly  are  to  be  seen 
flourishing  in  the  rubbish  ;  in  others,  the  walls  are 
completely  covered  with  ivy ;  and,  even  on  the  top  of 
some  of  the  arches,  trees  have  sprung  up  to  a  con- 
siderable growth,  and,  clustering  with  the  aspiring 
pinnacles,  add  character  to  the  Gothic  pUe.  These  aged 
trees  on  the  summit  of  the  walls  are  the  surest  records 
we  have  of  the  antiquity  of  its  destruction'  {Monastic 
Annals  of  Tcviotdalc).  The  .site  is  uneven,  the  chapter- 
house standing  ten  steps  below,  and  the  church  ten 
steps  above,  the  cloisters,  which,  grassy  and  open  now, 
were  93  feet  square.  To  the  N  of  them  stood  the  church  ; 
to  the  S  the  refectory  (100  x  30  feet),  with  beautiful 
W  rose-window  of  twelve  lights ;  and  to  the  E,  the 
abbot's  parlour,  library  (23  x  23  feet),  dormitory 
(45  X  23  feet),  chapter-house  (47  x  23  feet ;  20  high), 
St  Modan's  chapel  or  sacristy  (24  x  13  feet),  etc.  All 
the  conventual  buildings  are  in  the  Transition  style 
from  Romanesque  to  First  Pointed ;  and  the  most 
perfect  of  them  all  is  the  chaj)ter-house,  which  still 
retains  its  barrel  -  vaulted  roof  and  arched  sedilia 
along  its  eastern  wall,  whilst  a  double  circle  on  tlie 
floor  marks,  it  is  said,  the  founder's  sepulchre.  Nearly 
opposite  this  chapter-house  is  a  goodly  yew-tree,  as  old 
as,  if  not  older  than,  the  abbey.  The  church  was  cruci- 
form, and  comj^rised  a  six-bayed  nave  (98  x  55  feet),  a 
shallow  transept  (75  x  20  feet)  with  eastern  aisles, 
and  a  two-bayed  choir  with  a  presbytery  beyond,  in 
place  of  a  lady  chapel — the  whole  building  measuring 
190  feet  from  end  to  end.  Transept  and  choir  are 
First  Pointed  in  style  ;  but  the  nave,  restored  in  the 
first  half  of  the  14th  century,  is  altogether  Second 
Pointed.  '  Are  '  and  '  is,'  we  say,  though  little  remains 
of  this  great  monument  of  former  piety  .save  the  nave's 
western  gable,  the  gable  of  the  S  transejit  with  its  large 
and  fine  five-light  window,  and  St  Mary's  Aisle — a  frag- 
ment of  choir  and  N  transept,  containing  the  tombs  of 
the  Haigs  of  15emer.syde,  of  the  Erskines,  and  of  Sir 
"Walter  and  Sir  Walter's  kinsfolk.  St  Mary's  Aisle, 
whereof  wrote  Alexander  Smith,  that  '  when  the  swollen 
Tweed  raves  as  it  sweeps,  red  and  broad,  round  the 
ruins  of  Dryburgh,  you  think  of  him  who  rests  there — 
the  magician  asleep  in  the  lap  of  legends  old,  the 
sorcerer  buried  in  the  heart  of  the  land  he  has  made 
enchanted.' 

The  eleventh  Earl  of  ]5uchan,  we  are  told  by  Allan 

Cunningham,  waited  on  Lady  Scott  in  1819,  when  the 

illustrious  author  of  Wavcrlcy  was  brought  nigh  to  tlic 

grave  by  a  grievous  illness,  and  begged  her  to  intercede 

376 


DRYBURGH  ABBEY 

with  her  husband  to  do  him  the  honour  of  being  buried 
in  Drj-burgh.  'The  ])lace,'  said  the  Earl,  'is  very 
beautiful,- — ^just  such  a  place  as  the  poet  loves  ;  and  as 
he  has  a  fine  taste  that  way,  he  is  sure  of  being  gratified 
with  my  oiler.'  Scott,  it  is  said,  good-humouredly 
promised  to  give  Lord  Buchan  the  refusal,  since  he 
seemed  so  solicitous.  The  peer  himself,  however,  was 
buried  in  Dryburgh  three  years  before  the  bard.  The 
last  resting-place  of  Sir  Walter  Scott  is  a  small  spot 
of  ground  in  an  area  formed  by  four  pillars,  in  one  of 
the  ruined  aisles  that  belonged  to  his  boasted  forbears — 
the  Haliburtons  of  Merton,  an  ancient  baronial  famUy,  of 
which  Sir  Walter's  paternal  grandmother  was  a  member, 
and  of  which  Sir  Walter  himself  was  the  lineal  representa- 
tive. On  a  side  wall  is  the  following  inscription  : — '  Sub 
hoc  tumulo  jacet  Joannes  Haliburtonus,  Baro  de  Mer- 
toun,  vir  religione  et  virtutc  clarus,  (jui  obiit  17  die 
Augusti,  1640.'  Beneath  there  is  a  coat-of-arms.  On 
the  back  wall  the  later  history  of  the  .spot  is  expressed 
on  a  tablet  as  follows  : — '  Hunc  locum  sepulturae  D. 
Senescliallus  Buchaniie  Comes  Gualtero,  Thomse  et 
Roberto  Scott,  Haliburtoni  nepotibus,  concessit,  1791  ;' 
—that  is  to  say,  the  Earl  of  Buchan  granted  this  place 
of  sepulture  in  1791,  to  Walter,  Thomas,  and  Robert 
Scott,  descendants  of  the  Laird  of  Haliburton.  The 
persons  indicated  Avere  the  father  and  uncles  of  Sir 
Walter.  The  second  of  these  uncles,  however,  and  his 
own  wife,  were  the  only  members  of  his  family  there 
interred  before  him.  Lady  Scott  was  buried  there 
in  May  1826  ;  Sir  Walter  himself  on  26  Sept.  1832  ; 
his  sou.  Colonel  Sir  Walter  Scott,  in  Feb.  1847  ;  and 
John  Gibson  Lockhart,  '  his  son-in-law,  biographer,  and 
friend,'  in  Nov.  1854.  So  small  is  the  space  that  the 
body  of  '  the  mighty  minstrel '  had  to  be  laid  in  a 
direction  north  and  south,  instead  of  eastward,  facing 
the  Advent  dawn. 

'  So  there,  in  solemn  solitude, 

In  that  sequester'd  spot 
Lies  mingling  with  its  kindred  clay 

The  dust  of  Walter  Scott ! 
Ah  !  where  is  now  the  flashing  eye 

That  kindled  up  at  Flodden  field, 
That  saw,  in  fancj',  onsets  fierce, 

And  clashing  spear  and  shield,— 

'  The  eager  and  untiring  step, 

That  urged  the  search  for  Border  lore. 
To  make  old  Scotland's  heroes  known 

On  every  peojiled  shore,— 
The  wondrous  sjiell  that  summon'd  up 

The  charging  squadrons  fierce  and  fast, 
And  garnished  everj'  cottage  wall 

With  pictures  of  the  past, — 

'  The  graphic  pen  that  drew  at  once 

The  traits  alike  so  truly  shown 
In  Bertram's  faithful  pedagogue, 

And  haughty  Marmion, — 
The  hand  that  equally  could  paint, 

And  give  to  each  proiiortion  fair, 
The  stern,  the  wild  Meg  Merrilies, 

And  lovely  Lady  Clare, — 

'  The  glowing  dreams  of  bright  romance 

That  teeming  filled  his  ample  brow, — 
Where  is  his  daring  chivalry, 

Where  are  his  visions  now  ? 
The  open  hand,  the  generous  lieart 

That  joy'd  to  soothe  a  neighbour's  pains? 
Naught,  naught,  we  see,  save  grass  and  weeds 

And  solemn  silence  reigns. 

'  The  flashing  eye  is  dimm'd  for  aye  ; 

The  stalwart  limb  is  stiff  and  cold ; 
Ko  longer  jiours  liis  trumpet-note 

To  wake  the  jousts  of  old. 
The  generous  heart,  the  open  hand, 

The  ruddy  cheek,  the  silver  hair. 
Are  mouldering  in  the  silent  dust — 

All,  all  is  lonely  there  !' 

The  same  eleventh  Earl  of  Buchan  was  devotedly  at- 
tached to  Dryburgh.  At  a  short  distance  from  the  abbey 
he  constructed,  in  1817,  an  elegant  wire  suspension-bridge 
over  the  Tweed,  '260  feet  in  lengtli,  and  4  feet  7  inches 
between  the  rails,  which  was  blown  dowii  about  1850. 
His  Lordship  also  erected  on  his  grounds  here  an  Ionic 
temple,    with   a   statue  of  Apollo   in   the   inside,   aud 


DEYBUEGH  ABBEY 


DRYTE 


a  bust  of  the  bard  of  The  Seasons  surmounting  the 
dome.  He  raised,  too,  a  colossal  statue  of  Sir  "William 
Wallace  on  the  summit  of  a  steep  and  thickly-planted 
hill ;  which,  placed  on  its  pedestal  22  Sept.  1814, 
the  anniversary  of  the  victory  at  Stirling  Bridge  in  1297, 
was  the  first  AVallace  monument  in  Scotland.  '  It 
occupies  so  eminent  a  situation,'  saj'S  Mr  Chambers, 
'that  "Wallace,  frowning  towards  England,  is  visible 
even  from  Berwick,  a  distance  of  more  than  30  miles.' 
The  statue  is  21^  feet  high,  and  is  formed  of  red  sand- 
stone, painted  white.  It  was  designed  by  Mr  John 
Smith,  a  self-taught  sculptor,  from  a  supposed  authentic 
portrait,  which  was  purchased  in  France  by  the  father  of 
the  late  Sir  Philip  Ainslie  of  Pilton.  The  hero  is  re- 
presented in  the  ancient  Scottish  dress  and  armour,  with 
a  shield  hanging  from  his  left  hand,  and  leaning  lightly 
on  his  spear  with  his  right.  A  tablet  below  bears  an 
appropriate  inscription. 

Burns  visited  the  ruins  on  10  Slay  1787,  "Words- 
worth and  his  sister  Dorothy  on  20  Sept.  1803  ;  and 
Sir  "Walter  Scott,  in  his  Miiistrdsy  of  the  Scottish  Border, 
gives  an  interesting  account  of  one  who  actually  dwelt 
amongst  them — the  Nun  of  Dryburgh.  This  was  a 
poor  wanderer,  who  took  up  her  abode,  about  the  middle 
of  last  century,  in  a  vault  which  during  the  day  she  never 
quitted.  It  was  supposed,  from  an  account  she  gave  of 
a  spirit  who  used  to  arrange  her  habitation  at  night, 
during  her  absence  in  search  of  food  or  charity  at  the 
residences  of  gentlemen  in  the  neighbourhood,  that  the 
vault  was  haunted  ;  and  it  was  long,  on  this  account, 
regarded  -n-itli  terror  by  the  country  folk.  She  never 
could  be  prevailed  upon  to  relate  to  her  friends  the 
reason  why  she  adopted  so  singular  a  course  of  life. 
'  But  it  was  believed,'  says  Sir  Walter,  '  that  it  was 
occasioned  by  a  vow  that,  during  the  absence  of  a  man 
to  whom  she  was  attached,  she  would  never  look  upon 
the  sun.  Her  lover  never  returned.  He  fell  during 
the  civil  war  of  1745-6,  and  she  never  more  beheld  the 
light  of  da}^. ' 

The  name  Dryburgh  has  been  derived  by  followers  of 
Stukely  from  the  Celtic  darach-bruach,  '  bank  of  the 
grove  of  oaks  ; '  and  vestiges,  we  are  told,  of  Pagan 
worship  have  been  found  in  the  Bass  Hill,  a  neighbour- 
ing eminence,  among  which  was  an  instrument  used  for 
killing  the  victims  in  sacrifice.  St  Modan,  a  champion 
of  the  Pioman  party,  came  hither  from  Ireland  in  the 
first  half  of  the  8th  century  ;  but  it  is  something  worse 
than  guesswork  to  suppose,  with  Mr  Morton,  that  he 
founded  a  monastery  which  '  was  probably  destroyed  by 
the  ferocious  Saxon  invaders  under  Ida,  the  flame-bearer, 
who  landed  on  the  coast  of  Yorkshire  in  547,  and,  after 
subduing  Northumberland,  added  this  part  of  Scotland 
to  his  dominions  by  his  victory  over  the  Scoto-Britons 
at  Cattraeth. '  St  Mary's  Abbey  was  founded  by  Hugh 
de  Morville,  Lord  of  Lauderdale  and  Constable  of  Scot- 
land, in  1150.*  According  to  the  Chronicle  of  Melrose, 
Beatrix  de  Beauchamp,  wife  of  De  Morville,  obtained  a 
charter  of  confirmation  for  the  new  foundation  from 
David  I.  ;  and  the  cemetery  was  consecrated  on  St 
Martin's  Day,  1150,  'that  no  demons  might  haunt  it ; ' 
but  the  community  did  not  come  into  residence  till  1 3 
Dec.  1152.  The  monks  or  canons  regular  (to  give  them 
their  proper  title)  were  Premonstratensians  from  Alnnick ; 
and  their  garb  was  a  coarse  black  cassock,  covered  by  a 
white  woollen  cope,  '  in  imitation  of  the  angels  of  heaven, 
who  are  clothed  in  white  garments,'  hence  their  familiar 
designation — White  Friars.  Tradition  says,  that  the 
English,  under  Edward  II.,  in  their  retreat  in  1322, 
provoked  by  the  imprudent  triumph  of  the  monks  in 
ringing  the  church  bells  at  their  departure,  returned  and 
burned  the  abbey  in  revenge.  Bower,  however,  as  Dr 
Hill  Burton  remarks,  '  cannot  be  quite  coiTect  in  saying 
that  Dryburgh  was  entirely  reduced  to  powder,  since 

*  On  p.  100  of  his  Iliiifonj  and  Poetry  of  the  Scotti.sh  Border 
(187&),  Prof.  Vcitch  remarks  that  '  Dryburgh  was  founded  a  Httle 
later  [than  1136]  by  Hugh  de  Morville,  who  succeeded  his  father 
in  1159,  and  died  in  1162.  Some  hold  that  Morville  u-a.s  imidicated 
in  the  murder  of  Thomas  d,  Beclcet.  If  so,  the  founding  and  rich 
endowment  of  Dryljurgh  was  probably  an  expiation  for  this  early 
deed  of  his  life.'     Hut,  surely,  Uecket  was  murdered  in  1170. 


part  of  the  building  yet  remaining  is  of  older  date  than 
the  invasion.'  King  Piobcrt  the  Bruce  contributed 
liberally  towards  its  repair  ;  but  it  has  been  doubted 
whether  it  ever  was  fully  restored  to  its  original  magni- 
ficence. Certain  flagrant  disorders,  which  occurred  here 
in  the  latter  half  of  the  14th  century,  drew  down  the 
severe  censure  of  Pope  Gregory  XL  upon  the  inmates. 
An  alumnus  of  Dryburgh  about  this  period  has  been 
claimed  in  the  '  Philosophicall  Strode,'  to  whom  and 
the  '  moral  Gower '  Chaucer  inscribed  his  I'voilus  and 
Crcsscidc  ;  way,  Chaucer  himself  is  said  to  have  paid  a 
visit  to  Dryburgh.  Alas  !  the  claim  is  ruthlessly  de- 
molished by  Dr  Hill  Burton  in  Billings'  AntiqicUies. 
AVithin  20  miles  of  the  Border,  the  abbey  was  ever  ex- 
posed to  hostile  assaults  ;  and  we  hear  of  its  burning  by 
Richard  II.  in  1385,  by  Sir  Robert  Bowes  and  Sir  Bryan 
Latoun  in  1544,  and  again  by  the  Earl  of  Hertford  in 
1545,  in  which  last  year,  some  months  before,  James 
Stewart,  the  abbot  commendator,  had  with  other  chief- 
tains crossed  the  Tweed  into  Northumberland,  and 
burned  the  village  of  Hornclifi'e,  but  by  the  garrisons 
of  Norham  and  Berwick  had  been  attacked  and  driven 
back  with  heavy  loss,  before  he  could  effect  more 
damage.  This  same  James  Stewart  was,  through  a 
natural  daughter,  the  ancestor  of  the  Rev.  Henry 
Erskine  of  Chirnside  (1624-96)  and  his  two  sons,  the 
founders  of  the  Secession,  Ebenezer  (1680-1754)  and 
Ralph  (1685-1752).  Of  these  Henry  and  Ebenezer  were 
both  of  them  born  at  Dryburgh,  and  the  former  is 
buried  here. 

Annexed  to  the  Crown  in  1587,  the  lands  of  Dryburgh 
M'cre  by  a  charter  of  1604  granted  to  John  Erskine, 
Earl  of  Mar,  and  erected  into  the  lordship  and  barony 
of  Cardross.  From  the  Earl's  great-grandson,  Henrj', 
third  Lord  Cardross,  they  passed  by  purchase  in  1682  to 
Sir  Patrick  Scott,  younger  of  Aucrum,  in  1700  to 
Thomas  Haliburton  of  Newmains,  in  1767  to  Lieut. -Col. 
Charles  Tod,  and  finally  in  1786  to  David  Stewart 
Erskine,  eleventh  Earl  of  Buchan.  Tlieir  present  holder 
is  his  great-great-grandson,  George  Oswald  Harry 
Erskine  Biber-Erskine,  Esq.  (b.  1858  ;  sue.  1870),  who 
owns  359  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £977  per  annum. 
His  seat,  called  Dryburgh  Abbey,  adjoins  the  ruins,  as 
also  does  Dryburgh  House.  "The  latter,  a  Scottish 
Baronial  edifice,  enlarged  by  Messrs  Peddie  &  Kinnear 
in  1877,  was  for  some  time  the  residence  of  the  Right 
Hon.  Charles  Baillie,  Lord  Jerviswoode  (1804-79). — 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  25,  1865.  See  James  Morton's  i/oruis<ic 
AuTials  of  Tcviotdale  (Edinb.  1832) ;  Sir  D.  Erskine's 
Annals  and  Antiquities  of  Dryburgh  (Kelso,  1836) ;  J. 
Spottiswoode's  Liber  S.  Marie  de  Dryburgh  (Bannatyne 
Club,  Edinb.,  1847)  ;  Dryburgh  Abbey :  its  Monks  and 
its  Lords  (3d  ed.,  Lond.,  1864) ;  vol.  ii.,  p.  321,  of  the 
Rev.  J.  F.  Gordon's  Monasticon  (Glasg.  1868)  ;  and  Jas. 
F.  Hunnewell's  Xftzicfe  o/<S'coi!i  (Edinb.  1871). 

Dry  Bum,  a  rivulet  in  the  E  of  Haddingtonshire, 
issuing  from  little  Black  Loch  (500  feet),  in  Spott 
parish,  on  the  northern  slope  of  the  Eastern  Lammer- 
muirs,  and  running  5 J  miles  east-north-eastward,  chiefly 
along  the  boundary  between  Innerwick  and  Dunbar 
parishes,  to  the  sea  in  the  vicinity  of  Skalcraw,  4  miles 
ESE  of  Dunbar  town. 

Dr3^e,  a  small  river  of  Annandale,  Dumfriesshire, 
rising  in  the  northern  extremity  of  Hutton  parish,  at 
an  altitude  of  1900  feet,  on  the  southern  slope  of  Loch 
Fell  (2256  feet),  within  1^  mile  of  the  Selkirkshire 
border,  and  hh  miles  E  by  S  of  Moff'at.  Thence  it  runs 
18^  miles  southward  and  south-south-westward,  through 
the  northern  half  of  Hutton,  across  the  eastern  wing  of 
Applegarth,  and  through  the  W  of  Dryfesdale,  till  it 
falls  into  the  Annan  at  a  point  2  miles  AV  of  Lockerbie, 
and  140  feet  above  sea-level.  Its  basin,  above  Hutton 
church,  is  hilly  moorland  ;  but,  in  the  middle  and  lower 
parts,  is  champaign  country,  nearly  all  under  the  plough. 
Open  to  the  public,  its  waters  contain  abundance  of 
trout,  herlings,  and  a  few  salmon.  In  fair  weather 
small  and  singularly  liiai)id,  it  swells  after  heavy  rain 
into  rapid  and  roaring  freshet,  and  occasionally,  over 
breadths  of  rich  loamy  soil,  cuts  out  a  new  channeL 

377 


DRYTE  SANDS 

The  ancient  parish  church  of  Dryfesdalc  stood  on 
Kirkhill,  on  the  SE  of  the  Dryfc.  In  1670,  both  it 
and  part  of  its  graveyard  were  swept  away,  and  their 
site  converted  into  a  sand-bed,  by  one  of  the  Dryfe's 
impetuous  inundations.  Next  year,  a  new  church  was 
built  near  the  former  site,  on  what  was  thought  a  more 
secure  spot ;  yet  even  this  was,  in  a  few  years,  so 
menaced  bj-  the  encroachments  of  the  river,  wliich  tore 
away  piece  after  piece  of  the  graveyard,  that,  along  with 
its  site,  it  was  finally  abandoned.  These  disasters  were 
regarded  as  the  verification  of  an  old  saying  of  Thomas 
the  Rhymer,  which  a  less  astute  observer  of  the  furiously 
devastating  power  of  the  Dryfe  than  he  might  very 
safely  have  uttered — 

'  Let  spades  and  shools  do  what  they  may, 
Dryfe  shall  tak  Drysdale  kirk  away." 

The  church  of  1670,  and  even  greater  part  of  the  ceme- 
tery, have  now  wholly  disappeared.  A  story  has  long 
been  current  in  Annandale,  that  '  a  Dryfesdale  man  once 
buried  a  wife  and  married  a  wife  in  ae  day, '  which  fell 
out  thus.  A  widower,  after  mourning  for  a  reasonable 
time  the  spouse  whom  he  had  buried  in  Dryfesdale,  was 
proceeding,  on  a  wet  and  stormy  day,  to  take  to  him- 
self a  second  helpmate,  when,  crossing  the  bridge  at  the 
head  of  the  bridal  party,  he  saw  the  coffin  of  his  former 
wife  falling  from  '  the  scaur '  into  the  torrent,  and 
gliding  towards  the  spot  on  which  he  stood.  To  rescue 
it  from  the  water,  and  re-commit  it  to  the  earth  was  no 
long  task,  after  which  the  wedding  proceeded  merrily. 
The  tract  along  the  lowermost  reach  of  the  Drj'fe  is  a 
stretch  of  low  level  land,  consisting  of  silt  and  detritus 
brought  down  by  the  freshets,  and  called  Drj'fe  Sands. 
The  spot  is  memorable  as  the  scene  of  a  sanguinary 
conflict,  in  Dec.  1593,  between  the  Maxwells  and  the 
Johnstones.  The  former,  though  much  superior  in 
numbers,  were  routed  and  pursued  with  the  loss  of 
700  men,  including  their  commander,  Lord  Maxwell. 
Many,  on  reaching  Lockerbie,  were  there  cut  down  in  a 
manner  so  ruthless  as  to  give  rise  to  the  proverbial 
phrase  for  a  severe  wound,  '  a  Lockerbie  lick. '  Two 
very  aged  thorn-trees,  the  'Maxwell  Thorns,'  stood  on 
the  field  of  conflict,  ^  mile  below  the  old  churchyard 
of  Dryfesdale,  but  about  1845  were  swept  away  by  a 
freshet— Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  16,  10,  1864.  See  pp.  232-234 
of  Robert  Chambers'  Popular  llkymes  of  Scotland  (ed. 
1870). 
Dryfe  Sands.    See  Dryfe. 

Dryfesdale  (popularly  Drysdale),  a  parish  in  the  middle 
of  Annandale,  Dumfriesshire,  containing  in  the  S  the 
village  of  Bexi;.\ll,  and  towards  the  centre  the  town  of 
LocKEnBiE,  whose  station  on  the  main  line  of  the  Cale- 
donian is  25|  miles  NW  of  Carlisle,  and  75J  S  by  W  of 
Edinburgh.  It  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  Applegarth, 
E  by  Hutton,  SE  by  Tundergarth,  S  by  St  Mungo,  SW 
by  Dalton,  and  W  by  Lochmaben.  Its  utmost  length, 
from  NNE  to  SSW,  is  7\  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to 
W,  varies  between  1  mile  and  4|  miles  ;  and  its  area  is 
10,372  acres,  of  which  1402  are  water.  From  below 
Applegarth  church  to  just  below  Daltonhook  the  Annan 
winds  9  miles  south-by-eastward,  tracing,  roughly  or 
closely,  the  Lochmaben  and  Dalton  boundaries  ;  and 
Dryfe  Water,  its  atlluent,  flows  4  miles  south-westward 
on  the  Afiplcgarth  border  and  through  the  north- 
western interior.  Along  the  Hutton  border  Cohuie 
Water  runs  1|  mile  southward  to  the  Water  of  Milk, 
which  itself  meanders  2|  miles  south-westward  along  all 
the  Tundergarth  boundary.  In  the  flat  S,  the  surface, 
where  the  Annan  quits  this  parish,  sinks  to  less  than  140 
feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  north -north-eastward 
to  234  feet  at  Bengali  Hill,  391  near  Lockerbie  Hill,  733 
at  Whitewoollcn  Hill,  708  at  Sloda  Hill,  734  at  Croft- 
head  Hill,  and  774  on  Newfield  Moor — heights  that 
command  a  very  extensive  view.  The  rocks  of  the  hills 
are  eruptive  and  Silurian  ;  those  of  the  plains  include  a 
very  soft  sandstone  and  a  dark-coloured  limestone.  The 
soil,  on  most  of  the  hills,  is  rich  enough  to  be  arable  ; 
on  much  of  the  low  flat  grounds,  is  light  and  dry  ;  and 
along  the  streams,  is  deep,  fertile,  alluvial  loam.  About 
378 


DRYMEN 

350  acres  are  pastoral  or  waste,  250  are  imder  wood,  and 
all  the  rest  of  the  land  is  either  regularly  or  occasionally 
in  tillage.  Vestiges  of  strong  old  towers  are  at  Nether- 
place,  Old  Walls,  Kirkton  Mains,  Myrehead,  and  Dal- 
tonhook. Remains  of  eight  camps,  some  square  or 
Roman,  others  circular  or  Caledonian,  occur  in  difl'erent 
places,  chiefly  on  eminences  ;  and  two  of  them,  Roman 
and  Caledonian,  confront  each  other  on  hills  to  the 
NE  of  Bengali  village.  Traces  exist,  too,  of  a  Roman 
road,  running  northward  from  England  by  way  of 
Brunswark  Hill,  and  sending  off  a  westward  branch  to 
Nithsdale.  Mansions  are  Lockerbie  House  and  Dryfe- 
holm  ;  and  6  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of 
£500  and  upwards,  15  of  between  £100  and  £500,  15  of 
from  £50  to  £100,  and  35  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Dryfes- 
dale is  in  the  presbytery  of  Lochmaben  and  synod  of 
Dumfries ;  the  living  is  worth  £222.  The  churches  are  all 
at  Lockerbie,  where  Dryfesdale  public  school,  a  Gothic 
building  erected  in  1875  at  a  cost  of  £4500,  with  accom- 
modation for  600  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  407,  and  a  grant  of  £323, 18s.  Valuation  (1860) 
£10,881,  (1882)  £18,833,  2s.  6d.  Pop.  (1801)  1893, 
(1831)  2283,  (1861)  2509,  (1871)  2825,  (1881)  2971.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  10,  1864. 

Drygate.     See  Glasgow. 

Drygrange,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  ^lelrose 
parish,  Roxburghshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  Leader 
Water,  f  mile  above  its  influx  to  the  Tweed,  and  2J 
miles  ENE  of  Melrose.  The  mansion,  a  fine  old  build- 
ing, amid  ancestral  trees,  occupies  the  site  of  the  chief 
granary  of  j\Ielrose  Abbey.  Granted  by  the  Abbey  to 
David  Lithgow  in  the  reign  of  James  V.,  the  estate  has 
come,  through  several  hands,  to  Sir  George  Hector 
Leith-Buchanan,  seventh  Bart,  since  1775  (b.  1833 ; 
sue.  1842),  who  married  in  1861  the  only  daughter  of 
the  late  Thomas  Tod,  Esq.  of  Drygrange,  and  who  holds 
1315  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1724  per  annum. 
Drygrange  Bridge,  across  the  Tweed  near  the  Leader's 
confluence,  takes  over  the  road  from  Melrose  and  St 
Boswells  to  Lauder,  and  commands  a  beautiful  view  of — 

'  Ercildoune  and  Cowdenknowes, 

Where  Homes  had  ance  commanding  ; 
And  Drygrange  wi'  the  milk-white  ewes, 
'Twixt  Tweed  and  Leader  standing.' 

Dryhope,  a  burn,  a  hill,  and  a  Border  peel-tower  in 
the  A\'  of  Yarrow  parish,  Selkirkshire.  The  burn  rises 
on  Deepslake  Knowe  (1717  feet),  and  runs  2g  miles  south- 
south-eastward  to  Yarrow  Water,  at  a  jioint  2i  furlongs 
NE  of  the  foot  of  St  Mary's  Loch.  The  hill,  called 
Dryhope  Rig,  flanks  the  right  side  of  the  upper  course 
of  the  burn,  and  has  an  altitude  of  1712  feet  above  sea- 
level.  Dryhope  Tower,  crowning  a  slight  eminence  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  burn,  5  furlongs  N  of  the  Loch, 
and  15^  miles  WSW  of  Selkirk,  was  one  of  the  strongest 
peel-houses  in  Ettrick  Forest — square  and  lofty,  com- 
manding a  glorious  view  up  the  vale  of  the  Yarrow  and 
over  the  Loch  of  the  Lowes  away  to  the  Moffatdale  Hills. 
Here,  about  1550,  was  born  the  'Flower  of  Yarrow,' 
^lary  Scott,  the  bride  of  Wat  Scott  of  Harden,  whom 
her  father  engaged  to  find  in  inan's  and  horse  meat  at 
his  tower  of  Dryhope  for  a  year  and  a  day,  in  return  for 
the  profits  of  the  first  Michaelmas  moon.  Five  barons 
pledged  themselves  for  the  observance  of  the  contract, 
which  was  signed  for  all  parties  by  a  notary  public, 
none  of  the  seven  being  able  to  write  his  name.  Wat 
either  succeeded  or  ousted  his  father-in-law,  for  on  13 
July  1592,  James  VI.  issued  at  Peebles  a  warrant  to 
demolish  the  fortalicc  of  Dryhope,  '  pertaining  to  Walter 
Scott  of  Harden,  who  was  art  and  part  of  the  late 
treasonable  fact  perpetrate  against  his  highness'  own 
person  at  Falkland. '  Demolished,  however,  Dryhope  was 
certainly  not,  for  the  tower,  though  roofless,  is  still  in 
good  preservation — the  property  still  of  a  Scott,  the 
Duke  of  Buccleuch.— On^.  Sur.,  sh.  16,  1864. 

Drjnnen,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  SW  Stirlingshire. 
The  village  stands  1§  mile  N  by  W  of  Drymcn  station, 
on  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Junction  section  of  the  North 
British,  this  being  6^  miles  ENE  of  Balloch  and  23^ 
WSW  of  Stirling  ;  and,  forming  a  good  centre  for  visit- 


DRYMEN 


DUBTON 


ing  some  of  the  fine  scenery  in  the  W  of  Stirlingshire, 
it  has  a  post  office  under  Glasgow,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  and  railway  telegraph  departments,  a 
branch  of  the  Royal  Bank,  and  fairs  for  cattle,  sheep, 
and  horses  on  the  last  "Wednesday  of  April,  17  May,  and 
the  Friday  before  the  first  Doune  November  market,  for 
hiring  on  21  May  and  the  first  Friday  of  November. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  by  Aberfoyle  and  Port  of 
Monteith,  in  Perthshire ;  E  and  SE  by  Kippen,  Balfron, 
.and  Killearn  ;  S  and  SW  by  Dumbarton  and  Kilmaro- 
nock,  in  Dumbartonshire  ;  and  W  by  Buchanan.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  N  by  E  to  S  by  W,  is  11  miles; 
its  breadth  varies  between  6-\  furlongs  and  lOJ  miles  ; 
and  its  area  is  30,973:^  acres,  of  which  123  are  water. 
ExDRiCK  Water,  entering  from  Killearn,  flows  7f  miles 
southward  and  west-north-westward  '  in  many  a  loop 
and  link '  along  the  Killearn  and  Kilmaronock  borders 
and  across  the  southern  interior ;  from  the  N  it  is 
joined  here  by  Altquhar,  from  the  SW  by  Catter, 
Burn.  Duchray  and  Kelty  Waters,  again,  both  head- 
streams  of  the  Forth,  trace  4  and  2|  miles  of  the  Aber- 
foyle border  ;  and  the  Forth  itself  winds  3f  miles  east- 
ward along  all  the  boundary  with  Port  of  Monteith. 
The  drainage  belongs  thus  partly  to  the  Clyde  and 
partly  to  the  Forth  ;  but  the  '  divide '  between  the  two 
river  systems  is  marked  by  no  lofty  height.  Along  the 
Endrick  the  surface  sinks  to  about  30  feet  above  sea- 
level,  along  the  Forth  to  40  ;  and  the  highest  point  in 
Drymen  between  is  Bat  a'  Charchel  (750  feet),  whilst 
the  road  from  DrjTuen  village  to  Buckl3-vie  nowhere 
exceeds  310  feet.  In  the  southern  wing  of  the  parish 
are  Meikle  Caldon  (602  feet)  and  Cameron  Muir  (530) ; 
in  the  north-western,  Drum  of  Clasmorei(577),  Maol 
Ruadh  (624),  *Gualann  (1514),  Elrig  (683),  Maol  an 
larairne  (720),  and  the  *  south-eastern  shoulder  (1750)  of 
Bexvraick,  where  asterisks  mark  those  heights  that  rise 
on  the  Buchanan  boundary.  The  tract  along  the  Endrick, 
a  narrow  vale,  in  places  scarcely  a  mile  in  width,  con- 
trasts strongly  with  the  wide  desolate  moorlands  on  either 
side  of  it,  and  presents  in  some  parts  very  beautiful  scenery. 
A  stretch  of  about  3  miles  by  2h,  to  the  S  of  this  valley, 
mainly  consists  of  Cameron  Muir,  which  passes  into 
junction  with  the  western  skirts  of  the  Lennox  Hills  ; 
and  the  region  to  the  N  of  the  vallej^,  measuring  about 
8^  miles  by  9,  and  bisected  by  the  watershed  between 
the  Clyde  and  Forth,  is  almost  all  either  moss  or  moor 
or  mountain,  its  north-eastern  portion  forming  part  of 
Flanders  Moss,  which,  lying  along  the  Forth,  has  been 
in  recent  years  extensively  reclaimed.  The  greater  por- 
tion of  the  arable  land  lies  at  elevations  of  from  40  to 
250  feet  above  sea-level ;  but  here  and  there  cultivation 
has  been  carried  as  high  as  450  feet.  The  soil  ranges 
from  fertile  clay  and  rich  brown  loam,  through  nearly 
all  gradations,  to  moorish  earth  and  spongy  moss  ;  but 
the  commonest  soU  is  poor  and  tilly,  over  a  cold  retentive 
bottom.  About  9944  acres  are  in  tillage,  1350  pas- 
ture, 556  under  wood,  and  21,700  waste.  Duchray 
Castle  is  an  interesting  antiquity.  A  large  cairn,  in 
which  sarcophagi  and  human  bones  were  found,  was  on 
East  Cameron  farm  ;  and  remains  of  a  Roman  foit, 
known  as  Garfarran  Peel,  are  on  Garfarran  farm,  at  the 
western  extremity  of  Flanders  JIoss.  Drumbeg,  near 
the  parish  church,  was  long  but  falsely  believed  to  be 
the  birthplace  of  John  Napier  of  Merchiston  (1550-1617), 
whose  patrimonial  inheritance  was  partly  situate  here, 
and  who  at  the  house  of  Gartness,  on  the  Endrick,  close 
to  a  waterfall,  the  Pot  of  Gartness,  worked  out  much 
of  his  famous  treatise  on  logarithms.  Mansions  are 
Endrickbank  and  Park  House.  The  Duke  of  Montrose 
and  Wm.  C.  G.  Bontine,  Esq.  of  Gartmore,  own  land 
respectively  to  the  yearly  value  of  £4000  and  £2053  ; 
and  8  other  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of 
£500  and  upwards,  12  of  between  £100  and  £500,  8  of 
from  £50  to  £100,  and  13  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Drymen 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Dumbarton  and  synod  of  Glas- 
gow and  Ayr ;  th»;  living  is  worth  £368.  The  parish 
„hurch  (1771  ;  400  sittings)  stands  near  the  village, 
where  also  is  a  U.P.  church  (1819).  Two  public  schools, 
AucHiNTEOiG  and  Drymen,  with  respective  accommoda- 


tion for  56  and  120  children,  had  (ISSO)  an  average 
attendance  of  20  and  75,  and  grants  of  £33  and  £69, 
19s.  2d.  Valuation  (1860)  £11,508,  (1882)  £16,455, 
7s.  3d.,  plus  £8671  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801)  1607, 
(1831)  1690,  (1861)  1619,  (1871)  1405,  (1881)  1431.— 
Orel.  Sitr.,  shs.  38,  30,  1871-66. 

Drynie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kilmuir- Wester 
parish,  Ross-shire,  near  the  W  shore  of  the  Moray  Firth, 
4  miles  N  bj'  E  of  Inverness. 

Drynoch,  a  burn  in  Bracadale  parish,  Isle  of  Skye, 
Inverness-shire,  running  4  J  miles  westward  to  the  head 
of  Loch  Harport. 

Drysdale.     See  Dryfesdale. 

Duag,  an  alpine  streamlet  in  the  W  of  Blair  Athole 
parish,  Perthshire,  rising  near  the  watershed  of  the 
central  Grampians,  and  running  impetuously  2|  mile.s 
south-south-eastward  to  the  Garry  in  the  vicinity  of 
Dalnaspidal. 

Dualt,  a  bum  of  Strathblane  and  KQleam  parishes, 
Stirlingshire,  rising  on  Auchineden  HiU,  at  an  alti- 
tude of  830  feet,  and  ninning  3  miles  north-north-east- 
ward, chiefly  along  the  mutual  boundary  of  the  parishes, 
till,  near  Killearn  House,  it  falls  into  the  Caruock,  a  sub- 
afiluent  of  the  Endrick.  In  a  deep,  wooded  glen  a  little 
above  its  mouth,  it  forms,  with  several  smaller  falls,  one 
beautiful  cascade  of  60  feet.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  30,  1866. 

Duard  or  Rudha  Dubh  Ard,  a  headland  (91  feet)  to 
the  N  of  the  entrance  of  Loch  Broom,  XW  Ross-shire, 
opposite  Horse  island,  and  8  miles  NW  of  Ullapool. 

Duart,  a  small  bay  and  a  ruined  castle  in  Torosay 
parish,  ]\Iull  island,  Argyllshire.  The  bay,  opening  at 
the  north-eastern  extremity  of  Mull,  opposite  the  SW 
end  of  Lismore,  measures  1  by  f  mile.  The  castle,  4J 
miles  N  of  Achnacraig,  stands  on  a  bold  headland  at  the 
E  side  of  the  bay,  and  commands  one  of  the  grandest 
prospects  in  the  Western  Highlands.  Dating  from  some 
unknown  period  of  the  Norsemen's  invasion,  and  first 
coming  into  record  in  1390  as  the  stronghold  of  the 
Macleans  of  Mull,  it  comprises  a  massive  square  tower 
(75  X  72  feet)  of  seemingly  the  14th  century,  and  a  range 
of  less  ancient  buildings.  In  1523  Lachlan  Maclean  of 
Duart  exposed  his  wife,  the  Earl  of  Argyll's  daughter, 
on  a  tide-swept  islet  between  Lismore  and  Mull,  the 
'  Lady's  Rock,'  whence  she  was  rescued  by  a  passing 
boat — an  episode  dramatised  in  Joanna  Baillie's  Family 
Legend,  and  only  one  out  of  the  many  tragedies  wit- 
nessed by  Duart's  walls  in  the  endless  feud  between  the 
Macdonalds  and  the  Macleans,  from  whom  the  estate 
passed  to  the  Argyll  family  in  the  latter  half  of  the  17th 
centurj-.  Modern  Duart  House,  IJ  mile  NNW  of 
Achnacraig,  is  the  seat  of  Arbuthnot  Charles  Guthrie, 
Esq.  (b.  1825),  who  owns  23,012  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £3217  per  annum. 

Dubbieside  or  Innerleven,  a  coast  village  on  the  E 
border  of  Wemyss  parish,  Fife,  at  the  right  side  of  the 
mouth  of  tlie  river  Leven,  opposite  Leven  town.  It 
communicates  with  Leven  by  a  suspension-bridge  over 
the  river,  shares  in  its  industries,  and  has  a  U.  P.  church. 

Dubbs  Cauldron,  a  pretty  cascade  on  Wamphray 
Water,  in  Wamphray  parish,  NE  Dumfriesshii-e. 

Dubcapon.     See  Duxkeld  and  Dowally. 

Dubford,  a  hamlet  in  Gamrie  parish,  NE  Banffshire, 
1  mile  S  of  Gardenstown,  and  7^  miles  E  of  Banft",  under 
which  it  lias  a  post  oSice. 

Dubh  Loch.     See  Douloch. 

Dublin  Row,  a  village  on  the  N  border  of  Lesmahagow 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  almost  continuous  with  Kirkfield- 
bank.  If  mile  W  of  Lanark. 

Dub  of  Hass.     See  Dalbeattie. 

Dubston,  a  hamlet  in  Gamrie  parish,  Banffshire,  near 
Duijfukd. 

Dubton,  a  railway  junction  in  the  NW  corner  of 
Montrose  parish,  Forfarshire,  on  the  Scottish  North- 
Eastern  section  of  the  Caledonian,  at  the  deflection  of 
the  branch  lino  to  Montrose,  near  Hillside  village,  3 
miles  NNW  of  Montrose.  Dubton  House,  in  its  vicinity, 
is  the  seat  of  Thomas  Renny-Tailyour,  Esq.  (b.  1812 ; 
sue.  1849),  who  holds  557  acres  in  the  sliire,  valued  at 
£2081,  7s.  per  annum. 

379 


DUCHALL 

Duchall,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion  of  1768,  in  Kil- 
malcolm parish,  Renfrewshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Grj-fe,  If  mile  SSW  of  Kilmalcolm  village.  From  the 
IStli  century  the  estate,  with  a  castle  standing  IJ  mile 
to  the  WNW,  belonged  to  the  Lyles,  the  seventh  of 
whose  line  was  created  Lord  Lyle  about  1446.  The 
fourth  and  last  Lord  sold  it  a  century  later  to  Jolin 
Porterfield  of  Porterlield,  wliose  descendants  held  it  for 
fully  300  years.  It  is  now  the  property  of  Sir  Michael 
Shaw-Stewart  of  Ahdc.owan. 

Duchal  Law,  the  eastern  summit  (725  feet)  of  the 
Braes  of  Glenitfer  in  Abbey  parish,  Renfrewshire,  3^ 
miles  S  of  Paisley.  It  commands  an  extensive  and  very 
lovely  view. 

Duchray,  an  estate,  with  an  old  castle,  in  Drymen 
parish,  Stirlingshire.  The  castle,  on  the  right  bank  of 
Duchray  Water,  3  miles  "WSW  of  Aberfoyle  hamlet,  and 
10  NW  of  Bucklp-ie  station,  was  formerly  a  stronghold 
of  those  Grahams  who  in  1671  fought  the  Earl  of  Airth 
upon  Aberfoyle  bridge,  and  is  now  beautifully  mantled 
with  i^-y.  Its  orchard  contains  some  aged  filbert  trees, 
producing  a  peculiarly  large  and  fine-flavoured  nut. 

Duchray  Water,  the  southern  head-stream  of  the  river 
Forth,  in  Stirling  and  Perth  shires,  rises,  at  an  altitude 
of  3000  feet,  on  the  N  side  of  Ben  Lomond  (3192),  and 
thence  winds  13|  miles  north-north-eastward,  south- 
eastward, and  east-north-eastward  through  the  interior 
or  along  the  borders  of  Buchanan,  Drjnnen,  and  Aber- 
foyle parishes,  till,  at  a  point  1  mile  W  of  Aberfoyle 
hamlet,  it  unites  with  the  Avondhu  to  form  the  Laggan. 
See  Foivni.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh,  38,  1871. 

Ducraig,  a  rocky  islet  of  Dunfermline  parish,  Fife,  in 
the  Firth  of  Forth,  ^  mile  SW  of  Rosyth  Castle,  and  2f 
miles  NW  of  Queensferry.  The  depth  of  water  adjacent 
to  it,  at  tlie  lowest  ebb  tide,  is  21  feet. 

Duddingston,  a  village  and  a  coast  parish  of  Mid- 
lothian. Tlie  village,  Ig  mile  WSW  of  Portobello 
station,  and  2^  miles  SE  by  E  of  Edinburgh  Post  Office 
through  the  Queen's  Park,  stands,  at  an  altitude  of 
150  feet  above  sea-level,  at  the  south-eastern  base  of 
Arthur's  Seat  and  near  the  north-eastern  shore  of  Dud- 
dingston Loch.  With  background  of  hill,  and  foreground 
of  park  and  manse  and  antique  kirk  and  lake,  it  is 
itself  a  pretty  little  place,  consisting  of  a  small  back 
street  and  a  single  row  of  plain  good  old-fashioned 
villas.  At  it  are  an  inn,  a  post  office  under  Edinburgh, 
and  a  plastered  house  to  the  E  in  which  Prince  Charles 
Edward  is  said  to  have  passed  the  night  before  the 
battle  of  Prestonpans  ;  whilst  at  Duddingston  Mills, 
a  hamlet  J  mile  nearer  Portobello,  are  a  public 
school  and  Cauvin's  Hospital.  A  plain  white  villa- 
like building  this,  founded  by  Louis  Cauvin,  French 
teacher  in  Edinburgh,  and  afterwards  farmer  at  Dud- 
dingston, who,  dying  in  1825,  bequeathed  his  pro- 
perty for  the  maintenance  and  education  of  the  sons  of 
poor  but  honest  teachers  and  farmers,  or,  failing  such, 
master-printers,  booksellers,  and  farm  servants.  It  was 
opened  in  1833,  and  gives  instruction  to  17  boys  in 
classics,  modern  languages,  mathematics,  etc. 

Tlie  parish,  containing  also  the  town  of  Portobello 
and  Joppa,  and  the  village  of  Easter  Duddingston,  is 
bounded  N  by  South  Leith,  NE  by  the  Firth  of  Forth, 
S  by  Liberton,  SW  by  St  Cuthberts,  and  W  by  Canon- 
gate.  Its  utmost  length  is  3g  miles  from  ENE  to  WSW, 
viz.,  from  the  Firth,  at  the  mouth  of  Burdiehouse  Burn, 
to  the  old  Dalkeith  road  above  Echo  Bank  ;  its  utmost 
width  is  li  mile  ;  and  its  area  is  1899^  acres,  of  which 
143  are  foreshore  and  25^  water.  Burdiehouse  or 
Brunstane  Burn  winds  2  miles  east-north-eastward  to 
the  Firth  along  the  Liberton  border,  which  westwards, 
near  Peffermill,  is  traced  for  ^  mile  by  the  straightened 
Burn  of  Braid  ;  and  the  I5uni  of  Braid,  or  Figgate,  or 
Jordan  (its  aliases  are  many),  thereafter  Hows  2^  miles 
north-eastward  to  the  Firth  at  the  Is  W  end  of  Porto- 
bello, through  Duildiiigston  Park  and  the  wooded  dell 
of  Duddingston  Mills.  Reed-fringed  Duddingston  Loch, 
580  yards  long,  and  from  70  to  2G7  yards  wide,  was 
cleared  of  its  weeds,  and  thereby  greatly  improved,  in 
the  summer  of  1881.  It  is  truly  a  beautiful  little  sheet 
380 


DUDDINGSTON 

of  water,  in  summer  with  its  swans  and  waterfowl,  in 
winter  with  its  crowds  of  skaters  and  curlers,  and 
always  with  the  church,  the  boathouse  tower,  and  the 
bold  Hangman's  Craig.  The  coast-line  is  low,  though 
rocky  to  the  E,  whose  boulder-clay  mussel-beds  gave 
name  to  Musselburgh  ;  and  the  shore  is  fringed  with  a 
terrace  or  raised  sea-beach  that  marks  the  former  margin 
of  the  Firth.  Inland  the  surface  is  gently  undulating 
but  nowhere  hilly,  attaining  its  highest  point  (300 
feet)  at  the  eastern  shoulder  of  Dunsajjie  Rock,  and 
everywhere  so  dominated  by  Arthur's  Seat  (822  feet)  as 
to  look  flatter  than  it  really  is.  The  rocks  are  mainly 
carboniferous,  in  the  W  belonging  to  the  Calciferous 
Sandstone  series,  next  to  the  Carboniferous  Limestone 
series,  and  to  the  coal-measures  in  the  furthest  E,  and 
jielding  coal,  sandstone,  limestone,  and  brick  clay. 
The  soil  is  loamy,  resting  on  strong  clay,  towards  the 
SE  ;  light  and  sandy  along  the  coast  ;  and  elsewhere  a 
brownish  earth  of  no  gi'eat  natural  fertility.  Less  than 
two  centuries  since  the  entire  parish  was  an  unreclaimed 
moor,  covered  with  sand,  and  diversified  only  by  the 
stunted  growth  of  the  Figgate  AVhins,  that  forest  where 
Wallace  is  said  to  have  mustered  his  forces  for  the  siege 
of  Berwick,  and  Gibson  of  Durie  to  have  been  pounced 
upon  by  Christie's  Will.*  But  about  1688,  the  ONATier  of 
Prestonfield,  Sir  James  Dick,  became  Lord  Provost  of 
Edinburgh  ;  and,  better  acquainted  than  his  contempo- 
raries with  the  fertilising  powers  of  city  manure,  availed 
himself  of  ready  and  thankful  permission  to  enrich  there- 
with the  sterile  soil  of  his  estate.  So  successful  were  his 
policy  and  example  that,  arid  and  worthless  as  Dudding- 
ston had  been,  it  ranks  now  among  the  most  highly- 
rented  land  in  the  United  Kingdom,  with  its  lush  grass- 
meadows  and  steam-tilled  cornfields.  In  1745,  James 
Hamilton,  eighth  Earl  of  Abercorn  (1712-89),  bought 
from  the  Duke  of  Argyll  the  barony  of  Duddingston, 
and  here,  in  1768,  built  Duddingston  House,  a  Grecian 
pile  designed  by  Sir  William  Chambers,  which  cost, 
with  its  pleasure-grounds,  £30,000,  and  now  stands  in  a 
finely-wooded  park.  His  descendant  and  namesake,  the 
first  Duke  and  tenth  Earl  of  Abercorn  (b.  1811  ;  sue. 
1818),  holds  1500  acres  in  Midlothian,  valued  at  £7400 
jier  annum.  Prestonfield  is  the  other  chief  mansion  ; 
and  4  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  52  of  between  £100  and  £500,  125  of  from 
£50  to  £100,  and  130  of  from  £20  to  £50.  The  Fish- 
wives' Causey,  an  obscure  by-road  near  Portobello 
brickworks,  is  an  undoubted  fragment  of  the  Roman 
road  between  Inveresk  and  Cramond  ;  and  over  Burdie- 
house Burn,  leading  up  to  Brunstane  House,  is  a 
beautiful  old  bridge,  Roman  so-called  ;  whilst  from  the 
bed  or  shores  of  Duddingston  Loch  bronze  implements 
have  been  dredged  or  dug  up  in  such  numbers  as  to 
suggest  that  in  the  Age  of  Bronze  an  extensive  manufac- 
ture of  weapons  must  have  been  carried  on  at  its  margin. 
In  Duddingston  died  Sir  John  Hay  (lCOO-54),  a  senator  of 
the  College  of  Justice  ;  in  Duddingston  was  educated 
William  Smellie  (1740-95),  the  }irinter-naturalist  ;  and 
in  Duddingston,  son  of  a  farmer  at  Clearburn,  was  born 
the  Rev.  Thomas  Gillespie  (1708-74),  founder  of  the 
Relief  body.  But  the  name  associated  most  closely  with 
the  parish  is  that  of  the  great  landscape  painter,  its 
minister  from  1805,  the  Rev.  John  Thomson  (1778- 
1840) — 'Thomson  of  Duddinston,  heavy  and  strong,' 
as  Dr  John  Brown  calls  him — who  at  the  manse  here 
was  visited  by  Sir  Walter  Scott,  John  Clerk  of  Eldin, 
Sir  Thomas  Dick  Lauder,  Turner,  Wilkie,  etc.  In  the 
presbytery  of  Edinburgh  and  synod  of  Lothian  and 
Tweeddale,  this  parish  is  divided  ecclesiastically  into 
Portobello  and  Duddingston,  the  latter  a  living  wortli 
£440.  The  church,  with  chancel,  nave,  N  transept, 
low  square  tower,  350  sittings,  and  organ,  dates  from 
the  Korman  era  of  church  architecture,  and  under 
William  the  Lyon  (1166-1214)  was  acquired  by  the 
mouks  of  Kelso  Abbej'.  It  has  been  grievously  knocked 
about  and  added  to  at  various  periods,  a  window  of  the 
transept    bearing    date     1621,    but   it   still    retains    a 

*  Falsely,  since  the  seizure  took  j)lace  near  liis  own  seat  in  Fifo 
(Hill  Uurton,  Hint.  6c(/(.,  vi.  17,  cd.  1S70).    See  DiRii:. 


DUDDINGSTON,  EASTER 

beautiful  chancel  arch  and  S  doorway  of  Romanesque 
workmanship  ;  and  at  tlie  churchyard  gate  the  old 
'  loupin'-on-stane '  is  still  to  be  seen,  with  the  iron  jougs 
hanging  beside.  The  public  school,  with  accommoda- 
tion for  147  children,  had  (18S0)  an  average  attendance 
of  57,  and  a  grant  of  £40,  14s.  Valuation  (1SS2) 
£14,450,  exclusive  of  Portobello,  but  including  £2604 
for  railways.  Pop.  (1801)  1003,  (1831)  3862,  (1861) 
5159,  (1871)  6369,  (1881)  7815,  of  whom  1124  were  in 
Duddingston  ecclesiastical  parish. — Ord.  Siir.  sh.  32, 
1857.  See  J.  W.  Small's  Leaves  from  my  Skctch-Books 
(Edinb.  ISSO). 

Duddingston,  Easter,  a  village  in  Duddingston 
parish,  Midlothian,  1:|  mile  ESE  of  Portobello  station. 

Dudhope.    See  Duxdee. 

Dudwick,  an  estate  in  Ellon  parish,  Aberdeenshire, 
4  mik\s  XXE  of  Ellon  village.  The  semi-castellated 
mansion  on  it  was  the  seat  of  General  James  King 
(1589-1652),  the  Swedish  veteran,  who,  by  Charles  I., 
was  created  Lord  Eythin  or  Ythan  in  1642.  Having 
long  been  a  farmhouse,  it  was  demolished  within  the  last 
twenty  years.  Dudwick  Hill  (572  feet)  is  one  of  the 
highest  points  in  Buchan. 

Duflf  House,  a  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Fife  iu  Banff  parish, 
Banffshire,  near  the  middle  of  an  extensive  plain,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river  Deveron,  3  furlongs  S  by  E  of 
the  town  of  Banff.  Built  in  1740-45  by  "WiUiam  Lord 
Braco,  after  designs  by  the  elder  Adam,  at  a  cost  of 
£70,000,  it  is  a  large  quadrangular  four-storied  edifice, 
in  the  Roman  style,  with  balustrades  and  domical  tower- 
like projections  at  the  four  angles,  and  is  adorned  ex- 
ternally with  statues  and  vases.  Two  wings,  that  would 
have  given  it  an  oblong  shape,  were  never  added. 
Within  is  a  fine  collection  of  paintings,  comprising 
portraits  of  the  Constable  de  Bourbon  by  Titian,  of 
Charles  I.,  Henrietta  Maria,  Strafford,  Lord  Herbert, 
and  the  Countess  of  Pembroke  by  Yan  Dyck,  of  Mrs 
Abingdon  and  the  Duchess  of  Gordon  by  Sir  Joshua 
RejTiolds,  of  the  fourth  Earl  of  Fife  by  Raeburn,  and 
of  the  late  Countess  by  Sir  Francis  Grant,  beside  pictures 
by  Quentin  Matsys,  Murillo,  Cuyp,  Ruysdael,  Snyders, 
"Wouvermans,  Doraenichino,  Holbein,  Velasquez,  etc. 
The  Library,  70  feet  long,  contains  over  15,000  volumes, 
and  is  rich  in  17th  century  pamphlets  and  Spanish 
works,  collected  mostly  by  James,  fourth  Earl  (1776- 
1851),  during  his  Peninsular  campaign.  The  whole 
was  reorganised  and  catalogued  by  Mr  A.  Robertson  in 
1881.  The  Armoury,  among  other  relics,  contains  three 
Andrea  Ferraras,  and  the  target  and  huge  two-handed 
sword  of  the  freebooter  M'Pherson,  who  was  hanged  at 
Banff  in  1701.  In  1780  "William  Nicol  and  Burns 
went  over  Duff  House,  where  the  latter  was  greatly 
taken  with  portraits  of  the  exiled  Stuarts.  The  finely- 
wooded  park,  extending  nearly  3  miles  along  the  Deveron 
from  Banff  to  Alvah  Bridge,  comprises  parts  of  two 
counties  and  four  parishes,  and  measures  14  miles  in 
circumference  ;  abounds  in  drives  and  walks  of  singular 
beauty ;  and  includes  the  site  of  St  Mary's  Carmelite 
friary,  founded  before  1324,  which  site  is  now  occupied 
by  the  Gothic  mausoleum  of  the  Fife  family.  Alex- 
ander-WiUiam-George  DufiF,  sixth  Earl  Fife  since  1759 
(b.  1849  ;  sue.  1879),  holds  152,820  acres  in  Banff,  Elgin, 
and  Aberdeen  shires,  valued  at  £72,813  per  annum. — 
Ord.  Snr.,  sh.  96,  1876.  See  James  Imlach's  History  of 
Banff  (Banif,  1868). 

Duff-Kinnel,  a  rivulet  in  the  NW  of  Annandale,  Dum- 
friesshire. It  rises  in  Kirkpatrick-Juxta  parish,  and 
runs  about  4  miles  south-eastward,  chiefly  along  the 
boundary  between  that  parish  and  Johnstone,  to  a  con- 
fluence with  the  Kinnel,  a  little  above  Raehills. 

DufiFtown,  a  small  police  burgh  in  Jlortlach  parish, 
Banffshire,  1  mile  S  of  a  station  on  the  Great  North  of 
Scotland  railway,  this  being  4  miles  SE  of  Craigellachie 
Junction,  10^  SW  of  Keith,  and  64  NW  of  Aberdeen. 
"With  Conval  and  Ben  Rinnes  to  the  S'W,  Auchendoun 
Castle  to  the  SE,  and  Balvenie  Castle  to  the  N,  it  stands, 
600  feet  above  sea-level,  within  ^  mile  of  the  Fid- 
dich's  left  bank  ;  and  founded  in  1817  by  James  Duff, 
fourth  Earl  of  Fife,  it  is  laid  out  in  the  form  of  a  crooked- 


DUFFUS 

armed  cross,  with  a  square  and  a  tower  in  the  centre 
At  it  are  a  post  office,  ^vith  money  order,  savings'  bank, 
and  railway  telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the 
North  of  Scotland  and  the  Aliordeen  Town  and  County 
Banks  (the  latter  rebuilt  in  1880),  7  insurance  agencies, 
an  hotel,  a  distiller}^,  and  limeworks.  Cattle  fairs  are 
held  on  the  third  Thursday  of  May  and  September,  and 
the  fourth  Thursday  of  all  the  other  ten  months  ;  feeing 
fairs  on  the  "Wednesday  before  26  May,  the  third  "Wed- 
nesday of  July,  and  the  "Wednesday  before  22  Novem- 
ber. MoRTLAcn  parish  church  stands  3^  furlongs  to 
the  S  ;  and  at  the  village  itself  are  a  Free  church,  the 
Roman  Catholic  church  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Assumption 
(1825  ;  200  sittings),  and  St  Michael's  Episcopal  church 
(1880;  130  sittings),  a  pretty  little  Gothic  building  this. 
Queen  Victoria  di'ove  through  Dufftown  in  the  summer 
of  1867.  Its  municipal  constituency  numbered  230  in 
1882,  when  the  annual  value  of  real  property  was  £2300. 
Pop.  (1841)  770, (1851)  998,  (1861)  1249,  (1871)  1250, 
(1881)  1252.— Orf^.  Sur.,  sh.  85,  1876. 

Duffus,  a  vdllage  and  a  coast  parish  of  Elginshire.  A 
neat  clean  place,  Iving  1  mile  inland,  the  village  of  New 
Duffus  is  4i  miles" E  by  S  of  Burghead  station,  2  ESE 
of  Hopeman,  and  5|  NW  of  Elgin,  under  which  it  has 
a  post  office.     Pop.  (1S61)  159,  '(1871)  170,  (1881)  161. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  small  towns  and  vil- 
lages of  BUKGHEAD,  HOPEMAX,  CUMMIXGSTOX,  and 
Roseisle,  is  bounded  W  and  NW  by  the  Moray  Firth, 
NE  by  Drainie,  SE  by  New  Spynie,  and  SW  by 
Alves.  Its  length,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  3| 
and  6^  miles ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  3J 
miles ;  and  its  area  is  9865^  acres,  of  which  1  is 
water,  and  386f  are  foreshore.  The  coast-line,  7^ 
miles  long,  is  fringed  to  the  W,  along  Burghead  Bay, 
by  low  sandy  links  ;  elsewhere,  at  Burghead  and  along 
the  north-western  shore,  it  is  almost  everywhere  rocky, 
in  places  precipitous,  to  the  E  being  pierced  by  some 
large  and  remarkable  caves.  Inland,  the  flat-looking 
surface  attains  225  feet  at  Clarkly  Hill,  235  near  Inver- 
ugie,  241  near  Burnside,  and  287  at  Roseisle,  thence 
again  gently  declining  southward  and  south-eastward  to 
only  32  feet  at  Bridgend  and  11  at  Unthank.  The  sea- 
board, to  the  breadth  of  J  mile,  was  once  a  rich  culti- 
vated plain ;  but  ha\'ing  been  desolated  by  sand  drift, 
in  a  similar  manner  to  the  Culbin  Sands,  was  afterwards 
reclaimed  for  either  pasture  or  the  plough,  and  now 
presents  an  appearance  of  meagi-e  fertility.  The  rest  of 
the  land  is  all  arable.  No  river  touches  the  parish, 
scarcely  even  a  rivulet ;  and  springs  are  few  and  scanty. 
Sandstone  and  limestone  occur,  and  are  quarried.  The 
soil,  in  the  E,  is  a  deep  and  fertile  claj',  like  that  of  tlie 
Carse  of  Gowrie  ;  in  the  W,  is  a  rich  black  earth,  oc- 
casionally mixed  with  sand,  but  generally  yielding  first- 
rate  crops.  So  that,  not  from  its  situation,  but  from  its 
great  fertility,  this  parish  has  been  called  the  Heart  of 
Morayshire.  Fully  five-eighths  of  the  entire  area  are  in 
tillage,  about  one-third  is  pasture,  and  some  350  acres 
are  under  wood.  Duffus  Castle,  If  mile  SE  of  the  vil- 
lage, was  built  in  the  time  of  David  II.,  and,  crowning 
a  mound  near  the  NW  shore  of  Spynie  Loch,  was  sur- 
rounded with  a  moat,  and  approached  by  a  drawbridge ; 
its  walls,  5  feet  in  thickness,  consisted  of  rough,  cemented 
stones.  Belonging  originally  to  the  family  of  De  Jloravia, 
it  afterwards  was  long  the  seat  of  the  family  of  Suther- 
land, who  bore  the  title  of  Lords  Duffus  from  1650  till 
1843  ;  and  it  is  now  a  picturesque  ruin.  An  obelisk, 
falsely  thought  to  have  been  erected  by  Malcolm  II.  in 
commemoration  of  a  victory  over  the  Danes  under  Camus, 
stood  till  within  the  present  century  near  Kaim ;  and 
several  tumuli  are  on  the  heights  at  the  shore,  whilst 
sarcophagi  have  been  exhumed  on  the  estate  of  Inverugie. 
Duffus  House,  3  furlongs  ESE  of  the  village,  is  the 
seat  of  Sir  Archibald  Dunbar  of  Northficld,  sixth  Bart. 
since  1698  (b.  1803  ;  sue.  1847),  who  owns  1828  acres 
in  the  shire,  valued  at  £3414  per  annum.  Another 
mansion  is  Inveuxigie  ;  and  the  whole  parish  is  divided 
among  27  proprietors,  7  holding  each  an  annual  value 
of  £500  and  upwards,  1  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  19  of 
from  £20   to   £50.     In   the   presbytery  of  Elgin   and 

381 


DUGALSTONE 

synod  of  Moray,  this  parish  is  divided  ecclesiastically 
iuto  Dutfus  and  Hurghead,  the  former  worth  £353.  Its 
church  is  a  handsome  edifice  of  1868,  with  a  spire. 
Four  jiublic  schools — Burghead,  Dutlus,  Hopeman,  and 
Roseisle — with  respective  accommodation  for  351,  126, 
362,  and  38  children,  had  (ISSO)  an  average  attendance 
of  256,  93,  240,  and  23,  and  grants  of  £204,  16s.  6d., 
£97,  15s.  6d.,  £198,  19s.,  and  £29,  12s.  6d.  Valuation 
(18S1)  £13,949,  19s.  Pop.  (1801)  1339,  (1831)  2308, 
(1861)  3308,  (1871)  3716,  (1881)  3985.— Ord.  Sicr.,  sli. 
95,  1876. 

Dugalstone.    See  Dougalston. 

Dugden.     See  Dogden. 

Duich,  a  beautiful  sea-loch  in  the  SW  corner  of  Ross- 
shire,  deflecting  from  the  head  of  Loch  Alsh,  and  striking 
5i  miles  south-eastward  along  the  SW  side  of  Kintail 
parish.  From  a  width  of  J  mile  at  its  entrance  it  ex- 
pands to  IJ  at  the  head  ;  and  it  takes  up  roads  from 
the  coast,  along  its  northern  and  southern  shores,  to 
respectively  Strathaffric  and  Glenshiel.  Its  screens  con- 
sist of  mountains,  rising  right  from  its  margin,  partly 
in  bold  acclivities,  and  partly  in  gentle  undulating 
ascents,  clothed  with  verdure  or  variegated  with  rocks 
and  trees.  Within  6  miles  of  its  head  stand  Ben 
Attow  (3383  feet)  and  Scuir  na  Cairan  (3771). 

Duirinish  or  Durinish,  a  parish  in  the  W  of  Skye, 
Inverness-shire,  containing  the  village  of  Dunvegan, 
on  Loch  FoUart,  23i  miles  W  by  N  of  Portree,  under 
which  it  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  and  telegraph  departments.  Extending  from  the 
Grishinish  branch  of  Loch  Snizort  on  the  N  to  Loch 
Bracadale  on  the  S,  it  is  bounded  on  its  E  or  landward 
side  bj'  the  parishes  of  Snizort  and  Bracadale ;  its 
length  is  19,  and  its  breadth  16,  miles  ;  whilst  its  coast- 
line, measured  along  the  bays  and  headlands,  is  about 
80  miles  ;  and  its  area  must  be  fully  100  square  miles. 
Sea-lochs  run  far  up  into  the  interior,  cutting  it  iuto  an 
assemblage  of  peninsulas  ;  and  are  flanked  with  grounds 
rising  in  some  places  rapidly,  in  other  places  gently, 
from  their  shores.  The  headlands  are  mostly  huge  lofty 
masses  of  rocks,  which  rest  on  bases  descending  sheer 
into  deep  water ;  and  the  coast  of  the  northern  district 
is  a  continuous  alternation  of  vertical  clifi's  and  low 
shores,  striking  enough  when  first  beheld,  but  wearying 
the  eye  by  its  monotony.  The  shores  and  islets  of 
Loch  Follart  or  Dunvegan  Loch,  with  Dunvegan  Castle 
for  centre-piece,  form  a  grandly  picturesque  landscape  ; 
and  the  coast,  from  Dunvegan  Head  to  Loch  Bracadale, 
consists  for  the  most  part  of  clifi's,  very  various  in 
height  and  slope,  many  of  them  lofty  and  almost  per- 
pendicular, and  nearly  all  of  such  geological  composition 
as  to  present  a  singular  striped  appearance.  Some 
isolated  pyramidal  masses  of  rock,  similar  to  the  '  stacks' 
of  Caithness  and  Shetland,  stand  oS"  the  coast,  and 
figure  wildly  in  the  surrounding  waters,  the  most  strik- 
ing and  romantic  of  these  being  known  as  Macleod's 
Maiden'.s.  The  northern  district  consists  of  Vatemisli 
peninsula,  and  constitutes  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of 
Halen  ;  the  other  districts  may  be  comprised  in  three — 
Glendale,  extending  westward  from  a  line  near  the  head 
of  Dunvegan  Loch  ;  Kilmuir,  extending  southward  from 
Dunvegan  Loch  to  Loch  Bay,  and  containing  the  parish 
church  ;  and  Arnisort,  extending  eastward  from  Kilmuir 
to  the  boundaries  with  Snizort  and  Bracadale.  The 
only  mountains  are  the  Greater  and  Lesser  Helvel  or 
Halivail,  in  the  western  peninsula,  which,  rising  to  an 
altitude  of  1700  feet  above  sea-level,  and  ascending  in 
regular  gradient,  with  verdant  surface,  are  truncated  at 
the  top  into  level  summits,  and  to  seamen  are  familiar 
as  Macleod's  Tables.  Hills  occur  in  two  series,  but  are 
neither  very  high  nor  in  any  other  way  conspicuous. 
Numerous  caverns,  natural  arches,  and  deep  crevices 
are  in  the  cliffs  of  the  coast.  Issay  Island  is  nearly 
2  miles  long,  and  has  a  fertile  soil  and  a  considerable 
population  ;  but  all  the  other  islands  are  small  and 
uninhabited.  The  rocks  are  chiefly  trap  ;  but  they  in- 
clude beds  of  fossilifcrous  limestone,  thin  strata  of  very 
fioft  .sandstone,  and  thin  scams  of  liard  brittle  coal. 
Zeolites  of  every  variety  are  very  plentiful ;  steatite 
382 


DULL 

aboivnds,  especially  about  Dunvegan  ;  and  augite  and 
olivine  are  found.  The  soil  in  a  few  tracts  is  clayey ; 
and  in  still  fewer  is  gravelly,  in  most  parts  being  either 
peat  moss  or  a  mixture  of  peat  moss  and  disintegi'ated 
trap.  DuNVEG.vx  Castle  is  at  once  the  chief  mansion 
and  antiquity.  Other  mansions  are  Vaternish,  Orvost, 
and  Grieshernish  ;  and  other  antiquities  are  fifteen  Dan- 
ish forts,  several  tumuli,  and  a  number  of  subterranean 
hiding-iilaces.  Maclcod  of  ilacleod  is  owner  of  half  the 
parish,  3  other  proprietors  holding  each  an  annual  value 
of  £500  and  ujjwards,  and  3  of  between  £100  and  £500. 
In  the  presbytery  of  Skye  and  synod  of  Glenelg,  this 
parish  is  divided  ecclesiastically  into  Halen  and  Duir- 
inish, the  latter  being  a  living  worth  £208.  Its  church, 
built  in  1832,  contains  nearly  600  sittings  ;  and  there  is 
also  a  Free  church  of  Duhrinish.  The  eight  public  schools 
of  Borreraig,  Borrodale,  Colbost,  Dunvegan,  Edinbain, 
Knockbreck,  Lochbeag,  and  Valtin  Bridge,  and  the 
Free  Church  school  of  Arnisort,  with  total  accommoda- 
tion for  923  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance 
of  477,  and  grants  amoimting  to  £413,  Os.  5d.  Valua- 
tion (1881)  £7683,  12s.  Pop.  (1801)  3327,  (1831)  4765, 
(1861) 4775,  (1871) 4422, (1881) 4317. 

Duirinnis  or  Duimish,  a  grassy  islet  (3  x  IJ  furl.)  of 
Ardchattan  parish,  Argyllshire,  in  Loch  Etive,  opposite 
Bunawe.  It  contains  a  dwelling-house,  and  is  con- 
nected with  the  mainland  by  a  stone  bulwark. 

Duisky,  a  village  in  Kilmallie  parish,  Argyllshii-e, 
on  the  soutliern  shore  of  Upper  Loch  Eil,  7  miles  W 
by  N  of  Fort  William. 

Duke's  Bowling-Green.  See  Argyll's  Bowling- 
Green. 

Dulaich,  Loch.    See  Doulas. 

Dulcapon.    See  Dunkeld  and  Dowally. 

Dulcie-Bridge.     See  Dulsie-Bridge. 

Dull,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  central  Perthshire. 
The  village  stands  in  the  Strath  of  Appin,  f  mile  from  the 
Tay's  left  bank,  and  3^  miles  W  of  Aberfeldy  ;  an  ancient 
place,  but  now  decayed  and  small,  it  retains  in  its  centre 
a  ponderous  cruciform  pillar,  one  of  four  that  marked  the 
limits  of  the  ancient  sanctuary  of  Dull.  Two  of  them,  re- 
moved to  form  an  ornamental  gateway  to  the  house  of  the 
local  factor,  have  been  recently  placed  for  preser^^ation 
in  the  old  chm-ch  of  Weem  ;  the  fourth  has  disappeared. 

The  parish  consists  of  three  distinct  portions — the 
first  containing  Dull  village,  the  second  containing  the 
greater  part  of  Aberfeldy  and  also  the  village  of 
Amulree,  and  the  third  or  Garrow  section,  which,  very 
much  smaller  than  either  of  the  others,  lies  5J  miles 
WNW  of  Amulree.  Its  total  area  is  64,730  acres,  of 
which  1313  are  water,  whilst  47, 233|  belong  to  the  main 
body,  and  17, 496 J  to  the  detached  portions.  The  main 
body  is  bounded  NW  and  NE  by  Blair  Athole,  E  by 
Moulin,  Logierait,  and  Little  Dunkeld,  S  by  detached 
portions  of  Logierait,  Weera,  and  Fortingal,  and  SW 
and  W  by  Fortingal.  It  has  an  utmost  length  of  13§ 
miles  from  NW  to  SE,  viz.,  from  the  north-western 
slope  of  Craig  nan  Garsean  to  a  little  beyond  Loch 
Ceannard ;  its  utmost  width  is  12  miles  from  NE 
to  SW,  viz.,  from  the  river  Garry,  opposite  Auld- 
clune,  to  the  confluence  of  Keltney  Burn  with 
the  Lyon.  The  said  Lyon  flows  1^  mile  east-south- 
eastward along  the  southern  border  to  the  Tay ; 
and  the  Tay  itself  at  three  different  points  has  a  total 
east-north-easterly  course  of  8|  miles — 2J  from  the 
Lyon's  confluence  to  just  above  Dunacree,  f  mile  along 
the  northern  border  of  the  Aberfeldy  section,  and  5^  miles 
along  the  N  of  the  Grandtully  portion  of  the  main 
liody — descending  during  that  coui'se  from  280  to  210 
feet  above  sea-level.  The  TuMmel  winds  13  miles 
eastward  along  the  northern  border  and  through  the 
northern  interior,  its  expansion.  Loch  Tummcl  (25  x  J 
mile),  belonging  half  to  Blair  Athole  and  half  to  Dull ; 
and  the  Gaury,  the  Tummel's  aflluent,  has  here  at  two 
points  a  total  east-south-easterly  course  of  Ih  mile 
between  Blair  Athole  and  Auldclune  villages.  Lakes, 
other  than  Loch  Tummcl,  are  Loch  Kinardochy  (3x2 
furh),  Loehan  a'  Chait  (2^x3  furl.).  Loch  Ceannard 
(5ix3furl. ),  and  five  or  sLx  smaller  ones  dotted  ovei 


DULL 

the  interior ;  Lochs  DEncuLiCH  (4|  x  4  furi. )  and 
Classic  (3ixlJ  furl.),  partly  belonging  to  Logierait ; 
and  Loch  Bhaic  (3x1  furl. ),  of  which  two-thirds  are  in 
Blair  Athole.  The  surface  sinks  to  about  210  feet 
above  sea-level  along  the  Tay,  360  along  the  Tum- 
mel,  and  390  along  the  Garrv  ;  and  the  chief  elevations 
are  Grandtully  Hill  (1717  feet),  to  the  S  of  the  Tay ; 
*Beinn  Eagach  (2259),  Tarragon  Hill  (2559),  Weem 
Hill  (1638),  the  Rock  of  DuU  (1557),  Craig  Odhar  (1710), 
Meall  Tarruin  chon  (2559),  Dun  Coilloch  (1866),  the 
*north-eastem  shoulder  (3100)  of  Schiehalliox,  and 
Craig  Kynachar  (1358),  between  the  Tay  and  the  Tum- 
mel ;  and,  to  the  N  of  the  Tummel,  Meall  na  h-Iolaire 
(1443)  and  *Craig  nan  Garsean  (1566),  where  asterisks 
mark  those  summits  that  culminate  on  the  borders  of  the 
parish.  The  Aberfeldy  and  Amulree  portion,  again, 
has  an  utmost  length  from  N  to  S  of  9J  miles,  and  a 
var)'ing  breadth  from  E  to  "W  of  f  mile  and  4|  miles, 
being  bounded  N  by  the  Tay,  E  by  Weem  (detached), 
Little  Dunkeld,  and  Fowlis-AVester,  S  by  CiiefF,  and 
SW  and  W  by  detached  sections  of  Fowlis-Wester, 
Monzie,  Kenmore,  Fortingal,  and  Logierait.  In  the  S 
the  QuAiCH  has  an  east-south-easterly  course  of  3| 
miles,  traversing  Loch  Freuchie  (If  mile  x  3 J  furl.), 
which  mostly  belongs  to  this  portion  of  DuU,  other 
lakes  thereof  being  Loch  Hoil  (3  x  2 J  furl. ),  Lochs  na 
Craig  (4x1  furl.)  and  Fender  (2|  x  2  furl.)  on  the 
eastern  border,  Lochan  a'Mhuilinn  (IJ  x  §  furl.),  and 
Loch  Uaine  (2^  x  |  furl. ).  The  surface  sinks  at  Amulree 
to  close  on  900  feet,  and  the  chief  elevations  to  the  S  of  the 
Quaich  are  *Geal  Cham  (2000  feet),  *Beimi  na  Gainimh 
(2367),  and  *MeaU  nam  Fuaran  (2631),  whilst  to  the  N 
of  it  rise  *Creag  an  Loch  (1760),  *Meall  Dubh  (2021), 
and  Craig  Forinal  (1676).  Lastly,  the  Garrow  portion, 
measuring  3|  bj^  If  miles,  is  bounded  W  and  N  by 
Kenmore,  and  on  the  other  sides  by  detached  sections  of 
"Weem  and  Monzie.  The  Quaich  flows  3J  miles  along 
its  northern  border  ;  and  the  surface,  sinking  at  the 
north-eastern  corner  to  990  feet,  thence  rises  to  Garrow 
Hill  (2402  feet).  Cam  Bad  an  Fhraoich  (2619),  and 
Cam  nan  Gahbhar  (2790),  all  three  of  which  culminate 
upon  the  southern  border.  Mica  slat«,  occasionally  in- 
terspersed Avith  quartz,  granite,  chlorite,  and  horn- 
blende slate,  is  the  predominant  rock  ;  limestone  forms 
a  considerable  bed,  and  is  quarried  at  Tomphobuil ;  a 
bluish  building  stone,  similar  to  chlorite  and  talc  slate, 
occurs  on  the  Aird  of  Appin  ;  and  marl,  in  small 
quantities,  is  found  in  several  places.  The  soil,  in 
some  parts,  is  a  thin  mould  or  a  brownish  loam,  mixed 
with  sand  ;  in  others,  is  a  mixture  of  clay  and  loam  ;  in 
others,  is  light  and  gravelly  ;  and  in  others,  is  of  a  wet 
mossy  nature.  Between  651  and  661  St  Cuthbert, 
coming  to  a  town  called  Dull,  forsook  the  world,  and 
became  a  solitarj'.  On  the  summit  of  Doilweme,  or 
Weem  Hill,  1^  mile  to  the  NE,  he  brought  from  the 
hard  rock  a  fountain  of  running  water,  erected  a  large 
stone  cross,  built  an  oratory  of  wood,  and  hewed  a  bath 
out  of  a  single  stone.  At  Dull,  within  seventeen  years 
of  St  Cuthbert's  death  in  687,  Adamnan  founded  a 
monastery,  which  was  dedicated  to  himself,  and  to 
which  a  very  extensive  territory  was  annexed — the 
'  abthanrie  '  or  abbacy  of  Dull.  Embracing  a  large 
portion  of  the  western  part  of  the  earldom  of  Athole, 
and  containing  the  two  thanages  of  Dull  and  Fortingal, 
this  was  possessed  in  the  tirst  half  of  the  11th  century 
by  Crinan,  lay  abbot  of  Dunkeld,  and  ancestor  both  of 
the  royal  dynasty  that  terminated  with  Alexander  III. 
and  of  the  ancient  Earls  of  Athole  (Skene's  Celtic  Scot- 
latid,  vols.  ii. ,  iii. ,  1877-80).  The  antiquities  include  a 
number  of  forts,  cairns,  and  standing  stones,  a  stone 
circle,  and  three  moat-hills.  Mansions,  separately 
noticed,  are  Grandtully,  Foss,  Moness,  and  Derculich  ; 
and  the  chief  proprietors  are  the  Earl  of  Breadalbane, 
Sir  Robert  Menzies,  and  Sir  Archibald  Douglas-Drum- 
mond-Stewart,  4  others  holding  each  an  annual  value 
of  £500  and  upwards,  6  of  between  £100  and  £500,  3  of 
from  £50  to  £100,  and  6  of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the 
presbytery  of  Weem  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling, 
this  parish  is  divided  ecclesiastically  among  Foss,  Ten- 


DULSIE-BRIDGE 

andry,  Amulree,  and  Dull,  the  last  a  living  worth  £360. 
Dull  parish  church,  a  pre-Reformation  edifice,  consisting 
of  nave  and  chancel,  and,  as  recently  renovated,  con- 
taining 330  sittings,  stands  at  the  village  ;  it  was  dedi- 
cated to  St  Adamnan,  under  his  Celtic  name  of  Eonan. 
Other  places  of  worship  are  noticed  under  Aberfeldy, 
Amulree,  Grandtully,  and  Tummel-Bridge.  The  public 
schools  of  Didl,  Foss,  Grandtully,  and  Tummel-Bridge, 
with  respective  accommodation  for  95,  48,  75,  and  38 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  44, 13,  48, 
and  20,  and  grants  of  £43,  Is.,  £26,  2s.,  £49,  19s.,  and 
£35,  Is.  Valuation  (1866)  £16,754,  9s.  3d.,  (1882) 
£19,759,  5s.  Pop.  of  parish  (1801)  4055,  (1831)  4590, 
(1861)  2945,  (1871)  2681,  (1881)  2578  ;  of  registration 
district  (1871)  677,  (1881)  6lo.— Orel.  Sur.,  shs.  55,  47, 
1869. 

Dullaji  Water,  a  stream  of  Mortlach  parish,  Banflf- 
shu-e,  formed  by  the  confluence  of  Tavat  and  Corry- 
habbie  Bums  at  the  head  of  Glen  Rinnes,  and  thence 
running  5|  miles  north-eastAvard,  till  it  falls  into  the 
Fiddich,  I  mile  E  of  the  centre  of  Dufitown.  All  open 
to  the  public,  it  contains  abundance  of  trout,  running 
4  or  6  to  the  Vo.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  85,  1876. 

DuUatur,  a  tract  of  low  land  on  the  northern  border 
of  Cumbernauld  parish,  Dumbartonshire,  traversed  by 
the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal,  the  line  of  Antoninus' 
Wall,  and  the  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  section  of  the 
Xorth  British  railway,  li  mile  WNW  of  Cumbernauld 
town,  and  2  miles  ESE  of  Kilsyth.  Lying  almost  on 
a  level  with  the  canal,  it  was  all  till  a  recent  period  a 
deep  and  spongy,  almost  impassable  morass,  immedi- 
ately N  of  what  is  supposed  to  have  been  Bruce's 
mustering-ground  on  the  eve  of  his  march  to  Bannock- 
burn  (1314),  and  S  of  the  Kilsyth  battle-field  (1645). 
At  the  cuttmg  of  the  canal  through  it  in  1769-70, 
swords,  pistols,  and  other  weapons  were  foimd  in  it,  sup- 
posed to  have  been  lost  or  thrown  away  in  the  rout 
from  Kilsyth  ;  bodies  of  men  and  horses,  including  a 
mounted  trooper  completely  armed,  were  also  brought 
to  light ;  and  mA-riads  of  small  toads,  each  much  the 
size  of  a  nut  or  Turkej^  bean,  issuing  from  it,  hopped 
over  all  the  fields  northward  for  several  miles,  and  could 
be  counted  from  10  to  30  iu  the  space  of  1  square  j-ard. 
DuUatur  YiUas  here,  on  a  plot  of  164  acres,  round  the 
old  mansions  of  Dykehead  and  DuUatur,  were  erected  in 
1875-76  ;  and  Dullatur  station,  opened  in  the  latter  year, 
is  12|  mUes  NE  oi  Glasgow:— Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

Dulnain,  a  river  of  Badenoch,  NE  Inverness-shire, 
rising  at  an  altitude  of  2600  feet  among  the  Monadh- 
liath  Mountains,  8  mUes  AV  by  N  of  Kincraig  station, 
and  running  28  mUes  north-east-by-eastward,  tUl  it 
faUs  into  the  Spej  at  Ballintomb,  3  miles  SSW  of  Gran- 
town,  after  a  descent  of  1900  feet.  It  traverses  the 
parishes  of  Kingussie,  Alvie,  DuthO,  and  Cromdale,  the 
Inverness-shire  and  Elginshire  portions  of  Cromdale 
being,  parted  by  the  last  9  furlongs  of  its  course  ;  and 
just  above  its  mouth  it  is  crossed  by  an  iron-trellised 
viaduct  of  the  Highland  raUway.  It  has  generaUy  a 
small  volume,  yet  is  very  rapid ;  and,  when  swollen 
■with  rain  or  melted  snow,  it  often  does  much  damage 
to  the  corn  lands  on  its  banks.  The  tract  traversed 
by  it  in  Duthil  parish  is  called  Dulnainside  ;  was  ex- 
tensively covered  with  a  forest  which  was  destroyed 
by  a  fierce  conflagration  about  the  beginning  of  last 
century  ;  and  was,  till  then,  a  haunt  of  wolves.  Its 
waters  contain  good  store  of  trout,  some  pike,  and 
occasional  salmon  and  grilse. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  74,  1877. 

Dulnain-Bridgc,  a  hamlet  in  the  InveraUan  section  of 
Cromdale  parish,  Elginshire,  with  a  bridge  (1791)  over 
Dulnain  river,  3  mUes  SW  of  Grantown,  imder  which  it 
has  a  post  oflice. 

Dulsie-Bridge,  a  hamlet  in  Ardclach  parish,  Nairn- 
shire, on  the  river  Findhorn,  5  miles  above  Ardclach 
church,  and  12  SSE  of  Nairn.  The  river  here  tra- 
verses a  rocky  and  wooded  gorge  of  singular  beauty, 
and  is  crossed  by  a  bridge,  which,  carrying  over  Wade's 
military  road  from  Grantown  to  Fort  George,  has  a 
bold  main  arch  of  46  feet  iu  span,  with  a  subsidiary 
smaller  arch. 

383 


DUMBARNIE 


DUMBARTON 


Dumbamie.     See  Duxbarnie. 

Dumbarrow.     See  Dunbauuow. 

Dumbarton,  a  town  and  parish  of  Dumbartonshire. 
A  seaport,  a  royal  and  parliamentary  burgh,  and  the 
capital  of  the  county,  the  town  stands  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Leven,  f  mile  above  its  influx  to  the  Clyde,  and 
at  the  junction  of  the  Glasf^ow  &  Helensburgh  and 
Vale  of  Leven  sections  of  the  North  British  railway,  by 
water  being  4f  miles  E  by  N  of  Port  Glasgow  and  7J  E 
of  Greenock,  by  rail  4i  S  of  Balloch  Junction,  34^ 
WSW  of  Stirling,  SJ  ESE  of  Helensburgh,  16  WNW 
of  Glasgow,  and  63J  W  of  Edinburgh.  Its  site  is  a  low 
flat  plain,  skirted  to  the  W  by  an  east-south-easterly 
curve  of  the  Leven,  and  screened  to  the  E  by  the 
Kilpatrick  Hills  (1313  feet),  whilst  south-south-east- 
ward, between  the  town  and  the  Clyde,  stands  the 
castle-crowned  Rock  of  Dumbarton.  From  the  crescent- 
shaped  High  Street,  running  5  furlongs  concentric  with 
and  near  the  course  of  the  Leven,  Cross  Vennel  and 
Church  Street  strike  north-north-eastward  to  Broad- 
meadow  ;  and  a  stone  five-arch  bridge,  300  feet  long, 
built  towards  the  middle  of  last  century,  leads  over  the 
Leven  to  the  western  suburbs,  in  Cardross  parish,  of 
Bridgend  and  Dennystoun — the  latter  founded  in  1853, 
and  named  in  honour  of  its  projector,  William  Denny. 
Within  and  without,  Dumbarton,  it  must  be  owned, 
presents  an  irregular  and  unattractive  appearance,  little 
in  keeping  with  its  fine  surroundings  ;  and,  as  seen  from 
the  Clyde,  it  looks  a  mere  aggregate  of  huddled  houses, 
chequered  in  front  by  the  timbers  of  shipyards,  and 
overtopped  by  more  chimneys  than  steeples.  Yet  few 
Scotch  towns  have  made  more  rapid  progress  than  has 
Dumbarton  since  1852,  in  point  of  dwellers  rather  than 
of  dwellings,  whence  overcrowding ;  but  now  (1882) 
Messrs  Denny  propose  to  erect  a  new  suburb  for  2000 
families  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  town,  and  at  the 
same  time  to  form  a  new  graving-dock  that  will  take  in 
the  largest  vessel  afloat.  Amongst  the  improvements 
of  the  last  thirty  years  are  the  opening  of  a  large  and 
beautiful  cemetery  (1854) ;  the  embanking  of  Broad- 
meadow  (1858)  ;  the  introduction  of  water  from  Gar- 
shake  Reservoir  (1859)  at  a  cost  of  £8500,  the  present 
supply  exceeding  15,000,000  gallons  ;  the  taking  over 
of  the  gas-works,  which  date  from  1832,  by  the  Corpora- 
tion (1874) ;  and  the  adoption  of  the  Free  Libraries  Act 
(1881).  The  chief  want  now  is  a  better  public  park  or 
recreation  ground  than  marshy  Broadmeadow. 

The  Burgh  Hall  and  Academy,  built  in  1865-66  at  a 
cost  of  £7000,  is  a  goodly  edifice  in  the  French  Gothic 
style  of  the  13th  century,  with  a  frontage  of  132  feet, 
and  a  central  tower  140  feet  high.  The  Academy,  in 
front,  comprises  four  large  class-rooms  ;  and  the  Hall,  to 
the  rear,  is  80  feet  long,  40  wide,  and  37  high,  having 
accommodation  for  nearly  1000  persons.  The  County 
Buildings  and  Prison,  Imilt  in  1824  at  a  cost  of  over 
£5000,  were  in  1863  enlarged  by  two  wings  and  other- 
wise reconstructed  at  a  further  outlay  of  £5170;  and 
the  Prison  now  contains  31  cells.  A  Combination  Poor- 
house,  with  accommodation  for  156  paupers  and  40 
lunatics,  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  £7000  in  1865  ;  an 
epidemic  hospital  in  1874.  St  John's  Masonic  Hall 
(1874-75)  has  accommodation  for  200  persons ;  the 
Philosophical  and  Literary  Society  (1867)  occupies  the 
lower  portion  of  the  Town  Mission  House  (1873) ;  and 
there  are  also  a  Mechanics'  Institute  (1844),  the  Salmon 
Club  (1796),  a  curling  club  (1815),  a  bowling  club  (1839), 
a  Bums  club  (1859),  a  friendship  association  (1861),  etc. 
Dumbarton  has  a  post  office,  ■with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  and  telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the  Com- 
mercial, Clydesdale,  and  Union  Banks,  agencies  of  32 
insurance  companies,  2  hotels,  and  2  newspapers — the 
Wednesday  Liberal  Dumbarton  Herald  (1851)  and  the 
Saturday  Independent  Lennox  Herald  (1862).  Tuesday 
is  market-day,  and  fairs  are  held  on  the  thinl  Tuesday 
in  March  (St  Patrick's)  for  seeds  and  horses,  the  first 
Wednesday  in  June  (Carman)  for  cattle  and  horses,  and 
the  second  Wednesday  in  August  (Lammas)  for  cattle 
and  hay. 

Extensive  glass  and  chemical  works,  established  in 
384 


1777,  and  employing  300  men,  were  closed  about  two 
years  after  the  death  in  1831  of  Provost  Dixon  and  his 
son,  then  for  a  time  reopened,  and  finally  discontinued 
in  1850,  when  their  three  prominent  brick  cones  were 
taken  do\\"n.  The  stoppage  of  these  works  seemed 
likely  to  deal  a  great  blow  to  Dumbarton's  well-being ; 
but  their  place  has  been  more  than  supplied  by  ship- 
building, which  now  employs  upwards  of  4000  hands. 
The  two  great  shipbuilding  firms  are  those  of  Messrs 
M'Millan  (1834)  and  Messrs  Wm.  Denny  &  Bros.  (1844). 
From  the  yard  of  the  former  firm,  which  covers  5  acres, 
198  vessels  of  116,348  tons  were  launched  during  1845- 
76.  Messrs  Denny  removed  in  1857  from  the  Wood 
Yard,  on  the  Cardross  side,  to  the  Leven  Shipyard,  on 
the  Dumbarton  side,  which,  covering  15  acres,  has  six 
landing  berths,  each  of  3000  tons  capacity ;  and  they 
during  1844-76  turned  out  192  vessels  of  234,358  tons. 
Two  lesser,  but  still  large,  shipyards  have  been  opened 
since  1871  ;  and  the  total  output  was  14,000  tons  in 
1872,  18,400  in  1873,  32,000  in  1874,  33,000  in  1875, 
17,500  in  1876,  28,500  in  1877,  41,557  in  1878,  33,230 
in  1879,  34,036  in  1880,  and  26,296  in  1881.  Dum- 
barton's first  iron  steamer  was  launched  in  1844,  its 
first  screw  in  1845,  and  its  first  steel  steamer  in  1879  : 
whilst  among  the  more  notable  vessels  built  here  are 
the  Peter  Stuart  (1867)  of  1490  tons,  the  largest  iron 
sailing  ship  till  then  constructed  in  any  Scottish  port ; 
the  Stuart  Hahnemann  do.  (1874)  of  2056  tons;  and 
the  Piavcnna  Peninsular  and  Oriental  steam-liner  (1880) 
of  3448  tons.  The  other  industrial  establishments  of 
Dumbarton  comprise  Denny  &  Co.'s  engineering  works 
(1851);  Paul  &  Co.'s  engine  and  boiler  works  (1847); 
Ure  &  Co.'s  iron  foundry  (1835) ;  the  Dennystoun 
Forge  (1854),  with  a  5-ton  double-acting Nasmyth  steam- 
hammer  ;  3  saw-mills ;  a  rope  and  sail  yard  ;  brass- 
founding,  boat-building,  and  ship-painting  works,  etc. 

In  1658  the  magistrates  of  Glasgow  made  overtures  to 
their  brethren  of  Dumbarton  for  the  purchase  of  ground 
for  an  extensive  harbour,  which  the  latter  rejected  on 
the  ground  that  '  the  influx  of  mariners  would  tend  to 
raise  the  price  of  butter  and  eggs  to  the  inhabitants.' 
Port  Glasgow  was  thereupon  founded,  and  Dumbarton 
thus  lost  the  chance  of  becoming  a  seaport  second  to 
few  in  the  world.  Down  to  1700  the  burgh  retained  its 
chartered  privilege  of  levying  customs  and  dues  on  all 
ships  navigating  the  Clyde  between  the  mouth  of  the 
Kelvin  and  the  head  of  Loch  Long,  but  in  that  year  it 
sold  this  privilege  to  Glasgow  for  4500  merks,  or  £260 
sterling.  This  and  the  deepening  of  the  Clyde  to 
Glasgow  have  done  much  to  lower  Dumbarton's  com- 
mercial prestige,  and  it  now  ranks  merely  as  a  sub-port. 
Nor  are  its  harbour  accommodations  great,  the  improve- 
ments carried  on  since  1852 — such  as  the  deepening  of 
the  Leven's  channel — having  generally  had  less  regard 
to  shipping  than  to  shipbuilding.  An  excellent  quay, 
however,  and  a  capacious  dock  have  been  constructed, 
mainly  at  the  expense  of  the  late  James  Lang  ;  and  in 
1874-75  a  splendid  pier  of  pitch  pine  was  built  at  a  cost 
of  £8000.  Extending  from  the  Castle  Rock  into  the 
Clyde,  it  consists  of  gangway  (640  x  15  feet)  and  pier- 
head (90  X  25  feet),  the  river's  depth  at  the  extremity 
of  the  pier-head  being  10  feet  at  low  water,  so  that 
steamers  can  touch  at  any  state  of  the  tide. 

St  Patrick's  collegiate  church,  founded  in  1450  by 
Isabella,  Duchess  of  Albany,  at  the  end  of  Broadmeadow, 
fell  into  disuse  at  the  Reformation,  and  now  is  repre- 
sented by  a  single  tower  arch,  removed  to  Church 
Street  in  1850  to  make  room  for  the  railway  station. 
The  old  parish  church,  at  the  foot  of  High  Street,  a 
quaint,  begalleried,  cruciform  structure,  with  western 
spire,  was  built  about  1565,  and  demolished  in  1810. 
Its  successor,  completed  in  1811  at  a  cost  of  £6000,  is  a 
handsome  edifice,  with  spire  and  clock,  1500  sittings, 
and  three  stained-glass  windows,  two  of  them  geomet- 
rical designs,  and  tlie  third  (1876)  depicting  Christ's 
Sermon  on  the  Mount.  A  second  Established  church  is 
now  (1882)  about  to  be  built  in  the  town  ;  and  on  the 
Cardross  side  is  Dalreoch  quoad  sacra  church  (1873  ; 
cost  £2000  ;  620  sittings).     Free  churches  are  the  North 


DUMBARTON 

(1844  ;  rebuilt  1877)  and  the  High  (1864  ;  cost  £5000  ; 
850  sittings),  a  fine  Gothic  building,  -ivith  a  spire  of  140 
feet.  The  U.P.  church  of  West  Bridgend  (1861)  has  a 
good  organ  ;  another  in  High  Street  (182(5)  was  enlarged 
and  decorated  in  1874  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £2700.  Other 
places  of  worship  are  a  Wesleyan  Methodist  chapel 
(1862),  a  Baptist  chapel  (1876),  a  new  Evangelical 
Union  chapel  (1882),  St  Patrick's  Roman  Catholic 
church  (1830  ;  500  sittings),  and  St  Augustine's  Epis- 
copal church  (1872-73 ;  650  sittings),  an  Early  Geometric 
Pointed  edifice,  with  nave,  side-aisles,  lofty  clerestory, 
chancel,  and  '  sticket '  steeple,  whose  cost,  inclusive  of 
a  parsonage,  came  to  close  on  £9000,  and  which  has  all 
but  superseded  the  smaller  St  Luke's  (1856).  The 
Academy,  College  Street  public,  West  Bridgend  public, 
an  Episcopal,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  school,  ^\ith  re- 
spective accommodation  for  826,  371,  530,  361,  and  373 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  485,  533, 
314,  221,  and  262,  and  grants  of  £527,  19s.  6d., 
£398,  5s.  6d.,  £271,  14s.,  £220,  2s.  6d.,  aud_£177,  lis. 
Aproiws  of  the  schools,  the  famous  novelist,  Tobias 
Smollett  (1721-74)  here  learned  the  'rudiments'  under 
Buchanan's  vindicator,  John  Love  (1695-1750),  who 
was  a  native  of  Dumbarton,  as  also  were  the  judge.  Sir 
James  Smollett  of  Bonuill  (1648-1731),  its  member  for 
twenty-one  years,  and  Patrick  Colquhoun,  LL.D.  (1745- 
1820),  the  well-known  statist  and  metropolitan  magis- 
trate. One  of  its  ministers  was  the  Rev.  James  Oliphant 
(1734-1818),  the  'Auld  Light  professor'  of  Burus's 
Ordination. 

Constituted  a  free  royal  burgh  by  Alexander  IL   in 
1222,  Dumbarton  received  fresh  charters  from  several  of 

his  successors,  all 
of  which  were  con- 
firmed in  1609  by 
James  YL  It  now 
is  governed  by  a 
provost,  a  toAvn- 
clerk,  3  bailies,  a 
treasurer,  a  dean  of 
guild,  a  master  of 
works,  and  8  coun- 
cillors. The  Gene- 
ral Police  and  Im- 
provement Act 
(Scotland)  of  1850 
was  adopted  in 
1854,  and  the 
magistrates  and 
town  council  are 
commissioners  of  police.  An  Act  was  obtained  by  the 
magistrates  and  town  council  in  1872,  empowering 
them  to  purchase  the  old  and  to  erect  new  gas-works, 
to  improve  the  water- works,  to  erect  the  new  pier,  and 
to  construct  tramways  to  Alexandria.  The  police  force 
in  1881  comprised  9  men  ;  and  the  salary  of  the 
superintendent  is  £150.  The  sheriff  county  court  is 
held  every  Tuesday  and  Friday  during  session  ;  the 
debts  recovery  court  every  Friday  ;  the  sheriff's  ordin- 
ary small  debt  court  every  Tuesday  during  session, 
and  occasionally  during  vacation  ;  and  quarter  sessions 
are  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  March,  May,  and  August, 
and  the  last  Tuesday  of  October.  Dumbarton,  along 
■with  Kilmarnock,  Renfrew,  Rutherglen,  and  Port 
Glasgow,  returns  one  member  to  parliament,  its  muni- 
cipal and  parliamentary  constituency  numbering  1758 
in  1882.  The  annual  value  of  real  pi'opcrty  within  the 
parliamentary  burgh  was  £15,004  in  1856,  £37,532  in 
1875,  and  £45,898  in  1881-82,  when  the  corporation 
revenue  was  £1048,  and  the  harbour  revenue  £1339  (in 
1866,  £738).  Pop.  of  royal  burgh  (1801)  2541,  (1811) 
3121,  (1821)  3481,  (1831)  3623,  (1841)  4391,  (1851) 
4590,  (1861)  6090  ;  of  pari,  burgh  (1851)  5445,  (1861) 
8253,  (1871)  11,404,  (1881)  13,782,  of  whom  3482  were 
in  Cardross  parish.  Houses  (1831)  2478  inhabited, 
40  vacant,  51  building. 

The  Castle   of  Dumbarton   is   situated  on  an  acute 
peninsula  at  the  left  side  of  the  Leven's  influx  to  the 
Clyde,  and  consists  partly  of  a  mass  of  rock,  partly  of 
25 


Seal  of  Dumbarton. 


DUMBARTON 

superincumbent  buildings.  The  rock  appears  to  over- 
hang both  rivers — huge,  mural,  weather-worn  —  for 
several  hundred  yards  down  to  their  point  of  confluence. 
It  culminates  at  240  feet  above  sea-level,  measures 
1  mile  in  circumference,  and  figures  picturesquely  in 
most  of  the  views  of  the  upper  waters  of  the  Firth  of 
Clyde.  The  rock  is  of  basalt,  like  Ailsa  Craig,  the  Bass, 
Stirling  Castle  Rock,  and  other  single,  sharply-outlined 
heights,  that  start  abruptly  from  sea  or  plain.  It  rises 
sheer  from  the  low  circumjacent  level,  and  stands  by 
itself,  without  any  hills  near  it.  The  basalt  tends  to 
the  prismatic  form,  being  slightly  columnar,  and  in 
places  magnetic  ;  and  is  all  the  more  curious  for  pro- 
truding through  beds  of  sandstone,  nearly  a  mile  distant 
from  any  other  eruptive  formation.  The  rock  towards 
the  summit  is  cloven  by  a  narrow  deep  chasm  into  a 
double  peak,  and  presents  its  cloven  sides  to  S  and  N. 
The  western  peak  is  30  feet  higher  than  the  eastern,  but 
not  so  broad,  and  bears  the  name  of  Wallace's  Seat. 
The  buildings  on  the  rock  have  difl"ered  in  extent  and 
form  at  different  times,  and  do  not  seem  to  have  ever 
had  any  high  architectural  merit.  The  entrance,  in 
old  times  and  till  a  recent  period,  was  on  the  N  side, 
by  a  gradually  ascending  footpath,  through  a  series  of 
gates,  which  now  might  be  interesting  antiquities  had 
the}'  not  been  sold  for  old  iron.  The  present  entrance 
is  on  the  S  side,  through  a  gateway  in  a  rampart,  whence 
a  long  flight  of  steps  leads  to  a  battery  and  the  governor's 
house — a  modern  white  building  utterly  out  of  keeping 
with  the  character  of  the  place,  and  used  now  as  the 
quarter  of  the  married  men  of  the  Coast  Brigade  stationed 
here.  A  second,  narrower  flight  leads  from  the  gover- 
nor's house  to  the  cleft  between  the  two  summits,  and 
at  one  point  is  overarched  by  a  small  structure,  alleged 
to  have  been  the  prison  of  Wallace,  but  clearly  much 
later  than  Wallace's  day.  The  barracks,  the  armoury, 
the  Duke  of  York's  battery,  and  the  water  tank  stand 
in  the  cleft  of  the  rock,  and  a  steep  winding  staii-  con- 
ducts thence  to  the  top  of  the  western  summit,  which  is 
surmounted  by  a  flagstafl",  and  retains  vestiges  of  a 
small  circular  building,  variously  pronounced  a  wind- 
mill, a  Roman  fort,  and  a  Roman  pharos.  The  barracks 
contain  accommodation  for  only  150  men,  and  the 
armoury  has  lost  its  1500  stand  of  arms  since  the  Crimean 
war  ;  while  the  batteries,  though  capable  of  mounting 
16  guns,  would  be  of  little  avail  for  clefensive  purposes, 
and  at  best  could  only  serve  to  rake  the  channel  of  the 
Clyde.  The  castle,  too,  can  be  fully  commanded  by 
artillery  from  the  brow  of  Dumbuck  (547  feet),  1  mile 
to  the  E,  so  that  ever  since  the  invention  of  gunpowder 
it  has  been  rendered  unavailable  for  its  original  purposes, 
but  it  is  maintained  as  a  national  fortress,  in  terms  of 
the  Articles  of  Union.  Nor  is  it  undeserving  of  good 
maintenance,  for,  besides  forming  a  noble  feature  in  a 
most  noble  landscape,  it  commands  from  its  western 
summit  three  distant  prospects — each  difterent,  and 
each  of  singular  beauty.  The  first  up  the  Clyde  towards 
Glasgow — Dunglass  Castle  on  its  promontory,  Erskine 
House  opposite,  with  boats,  ships,  wooded  hills,  and 
many  buildings  ;  the  second  down  the  broadening  estu- 
ary— Port  Glasgow  and  Greenock,  and  the  mountains 
that  guard  the  entrance  of  Loch  Long ;  and  the  third 
up  the  Yale  of  Leven,  away  to  the  dusky  summits  of 
Loch  Lomond.  '  If  the  grand  outline  of  any  one  of  the 
views  can  be  seen,  it  is  sufficient  recompense  for  the 
trouble  of  climbing  the  Rock  of  Dumbarton. '  So  thought 
Dorothy  Wordsworth,  who,  with  her  brother  and  Cole- 
ridge, made  that  climb,  on  24  Aug.  1803  (p]).  57-62  of 
her  Tovr  in  Scotland,  ed.  by  Princ.  Shairp,  1874). 

Dumbarton  has  been  identified  with  the  Roman  naval 
station  2'hcodosia,  with  Ossian's  Balclutlut  ( '  town  on  the 
Clyde  '),  and  with  Urbs  LcgionU  ('  city  of  the  legion  '), 
the  scene  of  Arthur's  ninth  battle  against  the  heathen 
Saxons  in  the  beginning  of  the  6th  century.  The  third 
identification  slightly  confirms  the  first,  and  itself  is 
strengthened  by  the  town's  title  of  Castrum  Arthuri 
in  a  record  of  David  II.  (1367)  ;  of  the  second  we  are 
told  that,  whilst  Ossian  says  of  Balclutha,  '  The  thistle 
shakes  there  its  lovely  head,'  the  true  Scotch  thistle, 

385 


DUMBARTON 

though  really  rare  in  Scotland,  does  still  grow  wild  on 
Dumbarton  Rock.  On  this  rock  (in  alto  mantis  Ihin- 
hrdcn)  the  legend  of  St  Monenna,  who  died  in  519, 
records  that,  consecrated  a  virgin  hy  St  Patrick,  she 
founded  one  of  her  seven  Scotch  churches.  Be  this  as 
it  may,  from  the  battle  of  Ardderyd  (573)  we  find  the 
Cumbrian  British  kingdom  of  Strathclyde  comprising 
the  present  counties  of  Cumberland,  Westmoreland, 
Dumfries,  Ayr,  Lanark,  Peebles,  Renfrew,  and  Dum- 
barton ;  its  northern  half  occupied  by  the  Damnonii, 
belonging  to  the  Cornish  variety  of  the  British  race  ;  its 
first  king  Rhydderch  Hael,  Columba's  and  Kentigern's 
friend  ;  and  its  cajtital  the  strongly  fortified  rock  on  the 
Clyde's  right  bank,  termed  by  the  Briton's  Alduith 
('height  on  the  Clyde'),  and  by  the  Gadhelic  people 
iJnnhrcatan  {'  fort  of  the  Britons').  By  the  victory  in 
654  of  Osuiu  or  Osway  of  Northumbria  over  Penda  of 
Mercia,  the  ally  of  these  Britons,  the  latter  became  Osuiu's 
tributaries  ;  but  Ecgfrid's  crushing  defeat  at  Dunnichen 
in  685  restored  them  to  iull  independence.  This  lasted 
Ao\\n  to  756,  when  a  Northumbrian  and  Pictish  army 
under  Eadberct  and  Angus  mac  Fergus  pressed  so  hard 
upon  Alclyde,  that  the  place  was  surrendered  after  a 
four  months'  siege  ;  and  four  years  later  we  hear  of  the 
burning  of  its  fortress,  'which,'  says  Hill  Burton,  '  was 
probably,  after  the  fashion  of  that  day,  a  large  collec- 
tion of  wooden  houses,  protected  by  the  height  of  the 
rock  on  which  it  stood,  and,  whei'e  necessary,  by  em- 
bankments.' In  870  Alclyde  sustained  a  second  four 
months'  siege,  this  time  by  the  Vikings,  under  Olaf  the 
White,  Norwegian  King  of  Dublin,  who  reduced  its 
defenders  by  famine.  Before  which  siege,  with  the  dis- 
organisation of  Northurabria,  the  whole  of  the  British 
territory  from  the  Clyde  to  the  Derwent  had  once  more 
become  united  under  its  line  of  independent  kings, 
claiming  Roman  descent,  the  last  of  whom,  Donald, 
died  in  908.  Thereon  the  Britons  elected  Donald, 
brother  to  Constantin,  King  of  Alban ;  and  thus  Alclyde 
became  dependent  on  Alban,  till  in  1018  its  sub-king 
Owen  or  Eugenius  the  Bald  was  succeeded  by  Duncan, 
]\Ialcolm  II. 's  grandson — the  'gracious  Duncan'  of 
Macbeth.  Malcolm  dying  in  1034,  Duncan  succeeded 
him  as  King  of  Scotia,  in  which  Strathclyde  thenceforth 
becomes  absorbed.  In  1175  the  northern  portion  of  the 
old  Cumbrian  kingdom,  nearly  represented  by  Dumbar- 
tonshire, was  formed  by  William  the  Lyon  into  the 
earldom  of  Levenach  or  Lexnox,  and  conferred  on  his 
brother  David.  By  1193  this  earldom  had  come  into 
possession  of  Aluin,  the  first  of  a  line  of  Celtic  earls, 
who,  down  to  their  extinction  in  1425,  frequently  figure 
in  Dumbarton's  history,  but  who  only  retained  the 
castle  till  1238,  from  which  year  onward  it  was  always 
a  ro}-al  fortress.  As  such,  during  the  competition  for 
the  Scottish  crown  (1292),  it  was  delivered  up  to  Edward 
I.  of  England,  who  gave  it  over  to  Baliol,  on  the  ad- 
judication in  his  favour;  but  from  1296  to  1309  it  was 
held  again  by  the  English,  with  Sir  Alexander  Wouteith 
for  governor.  He  it  was  who  on  5  Aug.  1305  took 
Wallace  captive  at  Glasgow,  so  that  likely  enough  the 
'ubiquitous  troglodyte '  was  really  fur  a  week  a  prisoner 
here,  where  (as  elsewhere)  his  huge  two-handed  sword  is 
preserved  in  the  armoury,  along  with  old  Lochaber 
axes  and  skene-dhus  'from  Bannockburn,'  flint  pistols, 
rude  pikes,  and  tattered  regimental  colours.  In  1313, 
according  to  our  least  veracious  chroniclers,  Bruce, 
almost  single-handed,  achieved  the  cajiture  of  Dumbar- 
ton Castle.  A  sort  of  Guy  Fawkes  and  Bluebeard  episode 
this,  with  keys  and  a  cellar  figuring  largely  therein — 
the  cellar  first  full  of  armed  English  soldiery,  who  are 
overawed  by  the  Monarch,  and  the  traitor  Monteith 
next  led  to  it  in  fetters,  but  presently  pardoned  by  the 
magnanimous  Hero.  Anyhow,  by  Bruce  the  castle  was 
committed  to  tlie  governorshi])  of  Sir  Malcolm  Fleming 
of  Cumbernauld,  whose  son  was  one  of  the  few  that 
escaped  from  Halidon  Hill  (1333),  when  Dumbarton 
became  the  rallying-point  of  the  remnant  adhering  to 
the  boy-king,  David  II.  Sir  Roliert  de  Erskine  was 
next  appointed  governor  (1357),  and  after  him  Sir  John 
de  Dennistoun  or  Danielstoim.  He  was  succeeded  by 
386 


DUMBARTON 

his  son,  Sir  Robert,  on  whose  death  in  1399  Walter, 
his  brother,  the  parson  of  Kincardine  O'Neil,  forcibly 
seized  the  castle,  as  belonging  heritably  to  his  family. 
He  held  it  till  1402,  surrendering  it  then  in  the  hope  of 
obtaining  the  vacant  see  of  St  Andrews — a  hope  cut 
short  by  his  death  before  the  end  of  the  year.  In  1425 
James  Stewart,  son  of  the  late  Regent  Albany,  and 
grandson  of  the  eighth  and  last  Celtic  Earl  of  Lennox, 
assaulted  and  burned  the  town  of  Dumbarton,  and 
murdered  the  king's  imcle.  Sir  John  Stewart,  who  held 
the  castle  with  only  thirty-two  men.  Dumbarton  was 
next  besieged  in  1481  by  the  fleet  of  Edward  IV.,  but 
was  bravely  and  successfully  defended  by  Sir  Andrew 
Wood  of  Largo.  For  the  next  half  century  the  hisrory 
of  Dumbarton  is  virtually  that  of  the  Stewart  Earls 
of  Lennox.  Their  founder,  John,  having  taken  up 
arms  against  James  IV. ,  the  castle  was  twice  besieged 
in  1489 — first  by  the  Earl  of  Argyll  without  success, 
and  then  by  the  young  king  himself,  who  after  a  six 
weeks'  leaguer  compelled  the  four  sons  of  Lennox  to 
capitulate.  The  surprise  of  the  castle  one  stormy  night 
by  John,  third  Earl  (1514),  the  landing  here  of  Albany 
from  France  (1515),  the  establishment  of  a  French 
garrison  (1516),  the  interception  of  a  large  French  sub- 
sidy (1543)  by  Matthew,  Iburth  Earl,  Lord  Darnley's 
father,  and  his  design  of  betraying  the  fortress  to  Eng- 
land (1544) — these  are  events  that  can  merely  be  glanced 
at  in  passing.  On  7  Aug.  1548  Queen  Mary,  then 
six  years  old,  embarked  at  Dumbarton  for  France  ;  in 
July  1563  she  paid  a  second  visit  to  the  castle  ;  and 
hither  her  army  was  marching  from  Hamilton  when  its 
progress  was  barred  at  Langside,  13  May  1568.  For 
nearly  three  years  the  castle  held  out  for  her  under  its 
governor,  John,  fifth  Lord  Fleming ;  and  the  story  of 
how  it  was  taken  by  escalade  on  the  night  of  1  April 
1571  deserves  to  be  told  -n-ith  some  fulness.  Captain 
Thomas  Craufurd  of  Jordanhill,  to  whom  the  attack 
was  entrusted,  had  long  been  attached  to  the  house  of 
Lennox.  He  it  was  whose  evidence  was  so  important 
regarding  the  death  of  Darnley,  and  who  afterwards 
accused  Lethington  as  one  of  the  murderers,  since  which 
time  he  appears  to  have  resumed  the  profession  of  arms. 
In  the  enterprise  he  was  assisted  by  Cunningham,  com- 
monly called  the  Laird  of  Drumwhassel,  one  of  the 
bravest  and  most  skilful  ofiicers  of  his  time,  and  he  had 
been  fortunate  in  bribing  the  assistance  of  a  man  named 
Robertson,  who,  having  once  been  warden  in  the  castle, 
knew  every  crag  of  the  rock,  'where  it  was  best  to  climb, 
and  where  fewest  ladders  would  serve.'  With  him  and 
a  hundred  picked  men  Craufurd  set  out  from  Glasgow 
after  sunset.  He  had  sent  before  him  a  few  light  horse 
to  prevent  intelligence  by  stopping  all  wayfarers,  and 
about  midnight  he  arrived  at  Dumbuck,  within  a  mile 
of  the  castle,  where  he  was  joined  by  Drumwhassel  and 
Captain  Hume.  Here  he  explained  to  the  soldiers  the 
hazardous  service  on  which  they  were  engaged,  pro- 
vided them  with  ropes  and  scaling  ladders,  and, 
advancing  c^iuckly  and  noiselesslj'^,  reached  the  rock, 
whose  summit  was  fortunately  wrapped  in  a  heavy  fog, 
whilst  the  bottom  was  clear.  But,  on  the  first  attempt, 
all  M-as  likely  to  be  lost.  The  ladders  lost  their  hold 
while  the  soldiers  were  on  them  ;  and  had  the  garrison 
been  on  the  alert,  the  noise  must  have  inevitably  be- 
trayed them.  They  listened,  however,  and  all  was  still. 
Again  the  ladders  were  fixed,  and,  their  '  craws '  or 
steel  hooks  this  time  catching  firmly  in  the  crevices,  the 
leaders  gained  a  small  out-jutting  ledge,  Mhere  an  ash 
tree  had  struck  its  roots.  Fixing  the  ropes  to  its 
branches,  they  speedily  towed  up  the  rest  of  their 
comrades.  They  Avere  still,  however,  fourscore  fathoms 
from  the  wall.  They  had  reached  but  the  middle  of  the 
rock,  day  was  breaking,  and  when,  for  the  second  time, 
they  planted  their  ladders,  a  singular  impediment 
occurred.  One  of  the  soldiers  in  ascending  was  seized 
with  a  fit,  in  which  he  convulsively  grasped  the  stejis  so 
firmly,  that  no  one  could  either  pass  him  or  unloose  his 
hold.  But  Craufurd's  presence  of  mind  suggested  a 
ready  expedient ;  he  tied  him  to  the  ladder  and  turned 
it  round,  so  the  passage  was  once  more  free.     They  were 


DUMBARTON 

now  at  the  bottom  of  the  wall,  where  the  footing  was 
narrow  and  precarious ;  but  once  more  fixing  their 
ladders  in  the  copestone,  Alexander  Kamsav,  Craufurd's 
ensign,  and  two  other  soldiers,  stole  up,  and  though  at 
once  discovered  by  a  sentinel,  leapt  down  and  slew  him, 
sustaining  the  attack  of  three  of  the  guard  tiU  they  were 
joined  by  Craufurd  and  the  rest.  Their  weight  and 
struggles  to  surmount  it  brought  the  wall  down  with  a 
run,  and  afforded  an  open  breach,  through  which  they 
rushed  in  shouting,  'A  Damley,  a  Damley!'  Craufurd's 
watchword,  given  evidently  from  affection  to  his  hapless 
master,  the  murdered  king.  According  to  Dr  Hill 
Burton,  the  point  thus  gained  was  the  top  of  the 
western  peak,  the  ascent  being  made  to  the  left  of  the 
present  entrance  ;  and  from  this  vantage-ground  the 
assailants  now  turned  the  cannon  on  the  garrison,  who, 
panic-struck,  attempted  no  resistance.  Fleming,  the 
governor,  from  long  familiarity  with  the  rock,  managed 
to  escape  down  the  face  of  an  almost  perpeu'iicular 
gully,  and,  passing  through  a  postern  which  opened  upon 
the  Clyde,  threw  himself  into  a  fishing-boat,  and  so 
passed  over  to  Argyllshire.  In  this  achievement  the 
assailants  lost  not  a  man,  and  of  the  garrison  only  four 
were  slain.  In  the  castle  were  taken  prisoner  .John 
Hamilton,  Archbishop  of  St  Andrews,  who  was  fotmd 
with  mail  shirt  and  steel  cap  on,  Yerac,  the  French 
ambassador,  Fleming  of  Boghall,  and  John  Hall,  an 
English  gentleman,  who  had  fled  to  Scotland  after 
Dacre's  rebellion.  Lady  Fleming,  the  wife  of  the 
governor,  was  also  taken,  and  treated  by  the  Eegent 
courteously,  being  suffered  to  go  free,  and  carry  off  with 
her  her  plate  and  furniture.  But  Hamilton,  the  primate, 
was  instantly  brought  to  trial  for  the  murder  of  Damley 
and  Moray,  condemned,  and  hanged  and  cjuartered 
without  delay. 

In  1581,  as  a  signal  and  crowning  favour,  Esme 
Stewart,  the  new-made  Duke  of  Lennox,  received  the 
governorship  of  Dumbarton  Castle,  one  of  the  three 
great  national  fortresses  ;  in  16-39  it  was  seized  on  a 
Simday  by  the  Covenanters,  its  captain,  'a  vigilant 
gentleman,'  attending  church  with  so  many  of  the 
garrison  that,  they  being  taken  on  their  homeward  way, 
the  place  was  defenceless.  It  was,  however,  recaptured 
by  the  Royalists,  to  be  lost  again  on  28  Aug.  of  the 
following  year.  Thereafter  the  castle  drops  quietly  out 
of  history,  a  visit  from  Queen  Yictoria  on  7  Aug.  1847 
being  all  that  remains  to  be  noticed.  Sot  of  the  town 
is  there  anything  worthier  of  record  than  the  injury 
done  it  by  floods  of  the  Leven  in  133i,  and  again  in  the 
early  years  of  the  17th  century,  when  the  magistrates 
felt  obliged  to  apply  to  parliament  for  aid  in  construct- 
ing bulwarks.  A  commission  of  1607  reported  that  '  na 
less  nor  the  sowme  of  threttie  thousand  poundis  Scottis 
money  was  abUl  to  befr  out  and  fumeis  the  necessar 
charges  and  expenses  in  pforming  these  warkis  that  are 
liable  to  saif  the  said  burgh  from  utter  destructioune. ' 
A  grant  of  25,000  merks  Scots  was  accordingly  made  for 
the  ptirpose  by  parliament ;  and,  this  proving  insuffi- 
cient, a  farther  sum  of  12,000  was  afterwards  granted  by 
King  James.  In  1675  Dumbarton  gave  the  title  of 
Earl  in  the  peerage  of  Scotland  to  George,  third  son  of 
the  first  Marquis  of  Douglas,  but  this  peerage  became 
extinct  at  the  death  of  his  son  about  the  middle  of  the 
18th  century. 

The  parish  of  Dumbarton  is  bounded  ^  W  by  Bonhill ; 
X  by  Kilmaronock ;  NE  by  Drymen  and  Killeam  in 
Stirlingshire  ;  SE  by  Old  Kilpatrick  ;  S,  for  3  furlongs, 
by  the  river  Clyde,  which  separates  it  from  Eenfrewshire ; 
and  "W  by  the  river  Leven,  dividing  it  from  Cardross. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  XE  to  SW,  is  6J  miles ;  its 
breadth,  from  E  to  "W,  varies  between  1^  furlong  and 
5f  miles ;  and  its  area  is  8563  acres,  of  which  9S|  are 
foreshore  and  174  water.  The  Letxx  winds  4|  miles 
southward  along  all  the  western  border,  and  is  joined 
from  the  interior  by  Murroch  Bum  ;  whilst  Overton 
Bum,  tracing  much  of  the  south-eastern  boundary,  and 
itself  joined  by  Black  Bum,  flows  direct  to  the  Clyde. 
The  southern  and  western  districts,  to  the  mean  distance 
of  1^  mile  from  the  Leven,  present  no  striking  natural 


DUMBAETONSHIEE 

feature  except  the  Castle  Ro<;k,  in  whose  vicinity  they 
lie  so  little  above  sea -level  as  to  be  sometimes  flooded 
by  spring  rides.  From  this  low  valley  the  surface  rises 
north-eastward  to  Auchenreoch  and  Dumbarton  Muirs, 
attaining  S95  feet  at  Enockshanoch,  1228  at  Doughnot 
HUl,  Ills  at  Knockupple,  and  892  at  Knockvadie. 
Limestone  abounds  at  Munoch  Glen,  24  miles  XXE 
of  the  town  ;  red  sandstone  is  quarried  on  the  moors ; 
and  an  excellent  white  sandstone  occurs  at  Dalieoch, 
in  Cardross  parish.  The  soil — in  a  few  fields  a  rich 
alluvium — in  some  of  the  arable  tracts  is  very  clayey,  in 
others  gravelly,  and  in  most  somewhat  shallow,  yet 
generally  fertile ;  whilst  that  of  the  moors  is  sparse, 
and  of  little  value.  Strath  LE\rEy,  on  the  river  Leven 
opposite  Eenton,  is  the  chief  mansion.  Dumbarton  is 
seat  of  a  presbytery  in  the  Synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ; 
the  living  is  worth  £202.  Yaluation  of  landward  portion 
(1882;  £5108,  5s.  Pop.  of  entire  parish  (1801)  2541, 
(1831)  362-3,  (1861)  6304,  (1871)  8933,  (1881)  10,837,  of 
whom  538  were  in  the  landward  portion. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  30,  1866. 

The  jjresbytery  of  Dumbarton  comprises  the  old 
parishes  of  Arrochar,  Baldemock,  Balfron,  Bonhill, 
Buchanan,  Cardross,  Drymen,  Dumbarton,  Fintry,  Kil- 
leam, Kilinaronock,  New  Kilpatrick,  Old  Kilpatrick, 
Luss,  Roseneath,  Row,  and  Strathblane ;  the  quoad 
sacra  parishes  of  Alexandria,  Clydebank,  Craigrownie, 
Dalxeoch,  Garelochhead,  Helensburgh,  Jamestown, 
ililngavie,  and  Renton ;  and  the  chapelries  of  Dtm- 
tocher,  Helensburgh -West,  and  Kilcresgan.  Pop. 
(1871)  56,216,  (1881)  70,081,  of  whom  8971  were  com- 
mtmicants  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1873. — The 
Free  Church  also  has  a  presbytery  of  Dumbarton,  with 
2  churches  at  Dumbarton,  2  at  Helensburgh,  3  at 
Renton,  and  14  at  respectively  Alexandria,  Arrochar, 
Baldemock,  Bonhill,  Bowling,  Cardross,  Duntocher, 
(rarelochhead,  Killeam,  Luss,  Old  Kiljjatrick,  Rose- 
neath, Shandon,  and  Strathblane,  which  21  chnrches 
together  had  4262  members  in  ISSl. 

See,  besides  works  cited  under  DrMBAETOxsHiEE, 
John  Glen's  Si-story  of  the  Toicn  and  Castle  of  Dumbar- 
ton (Dumb.  1847) ;  WiUiam  Eraser's  The  Lennox  (2  vols., 
Edinb.,  1874) ;  and  Donald  Macleod's  Castle  and  Toxcn 
of  Du/nharton  (Dumb.  1S77'. 

Dumbarton  and  Helensburgh  Railway.  See  Kobth 
Beitish  Railway. 

DTimbart;onshire,  a  county,  partly  maritime,  but  chiefly 
inland,  in  the  W  of  Scotland,  comprising  a  main  body 
and  a  detached  district.  The  main  body  is  bounded 
N  by  Perthshire,  E  by  Stirlingshire,  SE  by  Lanark- 
shire, S  by  the  river  Clyde  and  the  upper  Firth  of  Clyde, 
which  divide  it  from  Renfrewshire,  and  YT  by  Argyll- 
shire. Its  eastern  boundary,  fix)m  Island  Yow,  above 
Inversnaid,  to  the  mouth  of  Endrick  Water,  runs  along 
the  mid'lle  of  Loch  Lomond :  thence,  to  the  mouth  of 
Catter  Bum,  is  trac-ed  by  En^irick  Water ;  and,  in  the 
extreme  SE,  for  3  miles  above  Maryhill,  is  traced 
by  the  river  Kelvin.  Its  western  boundary,  exc-ept 
for  9i  miles  in  the  extreme  X,  is  all  formed  by 
Loch  Long.  Its  outline  bears  some  resemblance  to  that 
of  a  crescent  with  the  convexity  towards  the  NK  Its 
length,  from  X  to  S,  varies  between  4|  and  24|  nules, 
its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  between  IJ  and  18i  miles. 
The  detached  district,  commencing  4J  miles  E  by  X  of 
the  nearest  point  of  the  main  body,  and  5  XXE  of 
Glasgow,  comprises  the  parishes  of  Kirkintilloch  and 
Cumbernauld  ;  is  bounded  X  and  E  by  Stirlingshire,  S 
and  W  by  Lanarkshire  ;  and  meastires  12f  miles  in 
maximtun" length  from  W  by  S  to  E  by  X,  and  4  in 
maximum  breadth-  The  area  of  the  entire  county  is 
270  square  miles  or  172,677  acres,  of  which  3814  are 
foreshore  and  14,312i  water,  whilst  19,030  belong  to  the 
detached  district. 

All  the  northem  or  Aerochae  district  of  the  county, 
lying  partly  aroimd  the  head  of  Loch  Lomond,  partly 
between  that  lake  and  Loch  Long,  is  a  group  of  moon- 
tains,  intersected  bv  deep  glens^  Cidminating  in  Ben 
Yorlich  (3092  feet)  and  Ben  Yane  (3004),  it  displays  all 
the  most  characteristic  features  of  grand,   romantic, 

3£7 


DUMBARTONSHIRE 


DUMBARTONSHIRE 


beautiful  Highland  scener)'.  The  central  part  from 
Finnart  and  the  middle  of  Locli  Lomond  to  the  hill- 
screens  of  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  but  including  the  penin- 
sula of  Roseneath,  is  a  region  varying  between  the 
highland  and  lowland,  and  exquisitely  blends  many  a 
feature  of  sternness  and  wildness  with  many  of  the  sweet- 
est loveliness.  The  lofty  hills  of  Arrochar  and  Luss, 
in  particular,  contrast  most  strikingly  with  tlie  wide  ex- 
panse of  the  pellucid  waves  of  the  queen  of  lakes,  far- 
famed  Loch  Lomond.  '  Here  savage  grandeur,  in  all 
the  towering  superiority  of  uncultivated  nature,  is  seen 
side  by  side  with  the  very  emblem  of  peace  and  tran- 
quillity, an  alpine  lake,  which  the  winds  reach  only 
b}'  stealth.'  The  southern  district,  comprising  the 
seaboard  of  the  Clyde,  the  Vale  of  Leven,  and  the  tract 
eastward  of  that  vale  to  the  extremity  of  the  main  body 
of  the  countj',  is  generally  lowland  and  rich  almost  to 
excess  with  gentle  contour  and  tasteful  oruamentation  ; 
yet  even  this  is  diversified — to  some  extent  broadly 
occupied — with  characters  of  abruptness  and  boldness, 
shown  in  the  shoulders  of  tlie  Cardross  hills,  in  the  mass 
of  Dumbarton  Rock,  in  the  brows  of  Dumbuck  and  of 
basaltic  ranges  northward  of  it,  and  in  the  capriciously 
escarped,  romantic  acclivities  of  the  Kilpatriek  Hills, 
which,  extending  54  miles  from  E  to  W,  and  attaining 
a  maximum  altitude  of  1313  feet  in  Duncomb  and  F}ti- 
loch,  contain  many  rich  close  scenes,  and  command 
some  of  the  finest  and  most  extensive  views  in  Scotland. 
The  detached  district  is  all  lowland,  and  of  tame  appear- 
ance, nowhere  exceeding  480  feet  above  sea-level,  yet 
extends  so  near  the  roots  of  the  Campsie  Fells  as  to 
borrow  effects  of  scenery  similar  to  those  which  the 
tracts  along  the  Clyde  borrow  from  the  Kilpatriek  Hills. 
No  region  in  Scotland  can  boast  of  finer  scenery  than 
the  county  of  Dumbarton  ;  and  certainly  none  more 
varied,  or  oftener  visited  and  admired  by  strangers. 

Considerably  more  than  one-half  of  Loch  Lomond, 
and  fully  two-thirds  of  the  islands  in  it,  belong  to  Dum- 
bartonshire. Loch  Sloy  in  Arrochar,  Lochs  Humphrey 
and  Cochno  in  Old  KUpatrick,  Fynloch  in  Dumbarton, 
Fannyside  Loch  in  Cumbernauld,  and  several  smaller 
lakes,  have  aggregately  a  considerable  area.  The  river 
Clyde,  from  opposite  Blythswood  to  the  influx  of  the 
Leven,  runs  8|  miles  along  the  southern  border ;  and, 
like  the  Firth,  onward  to  the  soutli-western  extremity 
of  Roseneath,  teems  ^vith  the  vast  commercial  traffic 
of  Glasgow.  The  Leven,  M-inding  7^  miles  south- 
ward from  Loch  Lomond  to  the  Clyde,  bisects  the 
lowland  district  of  the  county's  main  body,  and  is 
notable  at  once  for  the  purity  of  its  waters,  the  richness 
of  its  vale,  and  the  profusion  of  bleachfields  and  print- 
works on  its  banks.  The  Endrick,  over  all  its  run  on 
the  eastern  boundary,  is  a  beautiful  stream.  The  Kel- 
vin, though  ditch-like  where  it  approaches  the  main 
body's  south-eastern  border,  yet  at  Killermont  and 
Garscube  exhibits  much  exquisite  beauty.  AUander 
Water  drains  most  of  New  Kilpatriek  to  the  Kelvin. 
The  Falloch,  Inveruglas,  Douglas,  Luss,  Finlas, 
Fruin,  and  other  brooks  and  torrents,  with  many 
fine  cascades,  drain  most  of  the  Highland  tracts 
into  Loch  Lomond.  The  Kelvin  traces  most  of  the 
northern  boundary  of  the  detached  district,  but  every- 
where there  retains  its  ditch-like  character.  The  slug- 
fish  Luggie  drains  the  western  part  of  the  detached 
istrict  to  the  Kelvin,  and  some  tiny  streamlets  drain 
the  eastern  part  to  the  Carron.  Many  beautiful  rivulets 
and  burns  are  in  the  interior  of  the  main  body,  running 
either  to  the  principal  rivers,  or  jmrsuing  independent 
courses  to  the  Clyde,  Gare  Loch,  or  Loch  Long.  The 
Forth  and  Clyde  Canal  traverses  the  N  border  of  the 
detached  district,  and  afterwards  passes  along  the  S 
border  of  the  main  body  to  the  Clyde  at  Bowling  Bay. 
Springs  of  excellent  water  are  almost  everywhere  nume- 
rous and  copious. 

The  climate  is  exceedingly  various.  Some  parts  of 
the  county,  such  as  the  seaboard  of  the  Clyde  and  the 
Vale  of  Leven,  are  comparatively  genial,  while  other 
parts,  as  the  pastoral  lancls  of  Arrochar  and  the  plateaux 
of  the  Kilpatriek  Hills,  are  comparatively  severe.  Even 
388 


small  tracts  only  a  few  miles  distant  from  one  another 
are  so  strongly  affected  by  the  configuration  of  the  sur- 
face as  to  differ  widely  in  regard  to  heat,  moisture,  and 
the  winds.  Nowhere  in  Scotland  do  heights  and  hol- 
lows act  more  powerfully  on  climate,  the  former  in  the 
way  of  attracting  or  cooling,  the  latter  in  ventilating  or 
warming.  Even  in  places  so  near  and  like  one  another 
as  Keppoch,  Camus  Eskan,  Ardincaple,  and  Bellretiro, 
the  aggregate  rain-fall,  as  ascertained  by  gauges  all 
of  one  construction,  was  respective!}'  43  "15,  45  "5,  50 '57, 
and  52  '5.  The  climate,  on  the  whole,  however,  is  good. 
There  is  more  moisture,  indeed,  than  in  many  other 
parts  of  Scotland,  but  the  excess  is  not  so  much  in  the 
quantity  that  falls  as  in  the  length  of  time  it  takes  to 
fall ;  and  whatever  disadvantage  arises  from  a  corre- 
sponding excess  of  cloudiness,  seems  to  be  well  counter- 
balanced by  the  prevalence  of  the  genial  "W  wind 
during  no  less  than  about  nine  months  in  the  j^car. 
Sharp  E  winds  blow  in  spring,  but,  even  in  their 
sharpest  moods,  they  are  not  so  keen  as  in  the  eastern 
counties,  and  are  much  less  accompanied  with  frosty 
fogs. 

The  formation  consists  of  mica  slate  in  the  N,  with 
dj'kes  of  whinstone  and  greenstone ;  Lower  Silurian 
towards  the  S  ;  and  Old  Red  sandstone  along  the  Clj"de 
estuary,  where  trap  rocks  of  various  kinds  form  Dum- 
barton Castle  Rock  and  Dumbuck  Hill,  besides  the 
main  bulk  of  the  Kilpatriek  Hills.  Mica  slate,  always 
stratified,  often  laminated,  and  generally  compris- 
ing much  mica,  much  quartz,  and  very  little  fel- 
spar, forms  the  greater  part  of  the  highest  and 
most  striking  uplands  of  the  N.  The  quartz  of  the 
mica  slate  is  sometimes  so  extremely  abundant  as  to 
render  the  rock  more  properly  quartzose  than  micaceous. 
The  mica  slate  likewise  passes  occasionally  into  talc 
slate,  and  both  the  mica  slate  and  the  talc  slate,  be- 
tween Tarbet  and  Luss,  are  intersected  by  beds  of 
gi'eenstone,  felspar,  and  porphyry.  Clay  slate  is  also 
plentifirl  in  the  N,  lies  generally  on  the  mica  slate,  is 
frequently  traversed  by  veins  of  quartz,  abounds  with  iron 
pyrites,  and  is  quarried  as  a  roofing  slate  at  Luss  and 
Camstradden.  A  kind  of  limestone  slate,  or  a  laminated 
rock  strongly  charged  with  lime,  occm-s  in  the  same 
tracts  as  the  clay  slate.  Greywacke,  chiefly  amorphous, 
seldom  slaty,  and  often  abounding  with  quartz,  com- 
mences a  little  S  of  Camstradden  slate  quarrj',  and  forms 
a  large  portion  of  the  parishes  of  Row  and  Cardross.  A 
bluish -black  limestone  is  frequently  associated  with  the 
greywacke.  Old  Red  sandstone  extends  from  the  lower 
part  of  Loch  Lomond,  through  the  western  part  of  Bon- 
hill,  and  through  Cardross  and  Row,  to  the  SW  of  Rose- 
neath. A  yellow  sandstone  of  quite  different  lithological 
character  from  the  Old  Red  sandstone,  easily  chiseled, 
but  hardening  by  exposure,  occurs  at  some  parts  of  the 
seaboard  of  the  Clyde,  and  extends  at  intervals  and  fit- 
fully to  Netherton -Garscube.  Carboniferous  limestone, 
coal,  shale,  and  small  beds  of  ironstone  lie  above  the 
sandstones  in  the  eastern  wing  of  the  main  body  of  the 
county,  and  throughout  the  detached  district ;  but 
they  aggregately  yield  a  very  poor  produce  compared 
with  that  of  other  Scottish  regions  of  the  coal  forma- 
tion, Dumbartonshire's  mineral  output  for  1878  being 
210,520  tons  of  coal  and  3000  of  fireclay. 

The  land  area  of  the  county  is  154,541^  acres,  but 
was  formerly  over-estimated  at  167,040  acres  ;  and,  by  a 
competent  agricultural  authority,  who  so  over-estimated 
it,  was  classified  into  6050  acres  of  deep  black  loam, 
30,970  of  clay  on  a  subsoil  of  till,  25,220  of  gi-avel  or 
gravelly  loam,  3750  of  green  hilly  pasture,  99,400  of 
mountain  and  moor,  720  of  bog,  and  930  of  isles  in 
Loch  Lomond.  The  rivalry  of  proprietors  in  the 
lowland  districts,  the  demand  from  the  markets  of 
Glasgow  and  Greenock,  the  great  increase  of  general 
local  trade,  and  the  new  facilities  of  communication  by 
steamboats  and  railways,  have  powerfully  stimulated 
agricultural  improvement.  Draining,  fencing,  reclama- 
tion, skilful  manuring,  ameliorated  courses  of  rotation, 
and  the  use  of  better  implements,  have  all  been  brought 
largely  into  play,  with  the  result  of  greatly  enhancing 


AH^'-oa  ^:aia3. 


1 


r- 


DUMBARTONSHIRE 


DUMBARTONSHIRE 


the  value  of  land  and  increasing  the  amount  of  produce, 
lu  ISrO  the  percentage  of  the  cultivated  area  was  24 '9, 
in  ISSl  26 "8,  viz.,  5 '8  under  corn  crops,  2'8  under  green 
crops,  7  7  under  clover,  etc.,  and  10 '4  under  permanent 
pasture.  A  great  extension  of  sheep-farming,  begun  in 
the  early  part  of  the  present  century,  went  on  vigorously 
and  rapidly  in  the  upland  districts  ;  and  was  accom- 
panied there  by  the  practice  of  nioor-burning,  which 
occasioned  such  a  change  on  the  face  of  the  hills,  that 
tracts  formerly  brown  and  heathy  are  now  covered  with 
pasture.  The  growth  of  copsewood  on  lands  unfit  for 
tillage  or  pasture  has  long  been  much  practised  ;  and, 
besides  being  ornamental  to  the  landscape,  yields  a 
considerable  revenue.  In  1872  there  were  83S8  acres 
under  wood.  The  cattle,  in  the  upland  districts,  are 
of  the  Highland  breeds  ;  in  the  lowland  disti'icts,  gene- 
rally either  crosses  between  these  and  the  Ayrshire,  or, 
on  dairy  farms  or  for  dairy  purposes,  pure  Ayrshire. 
The  sheep,  on  the  hill  districts,  are  mostly  the  black- 
faced  ;  on  the  low  grounds,  are  generally  the  Cheviot, 
with  some  mixture  of  English  breeds.  The  native  horses 
are  small  animals,  of  intermediate  character  between 
the  ordinary  cart-horse  and  Highland  pony  ;  and  with 
few  exceptions  are  scarcely  ever  used  in  field  labour. 
Cl3'desdale  horses,  either  purchased  in  the  Lanarkshire 
markets  or  bred  from  good  stallions,  are  in  common  use 
on  the  arable  farms.  Sw^ne,  mostly  for  home  use,  are 
kept  by  almost  all  the  farmers,  and  by  many  cottagers. 
Herds  of  fallow  deer  are  on  luchmurrin  and  Inchlonaig 
in  Loch  Lomond  ;  and  red  deer  once  abounded  in  the 
mountain  districts,  but  were  long  ago  exterminated. 
Bee-keeping  is  largely  carried  on,  especially  at  Clynder. 

Manufactures  struck  I'oot  in  Dumbartonshire  in  the 
year  1728,  and  were  greatly  stimulated  and  extended 
b}'  the  formation  of  good  roads,  the  deepening  of  the 
Clyde,  the  opening  of  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal,  the 
introduction  of  steam  navigation,  and  the  opening  of 
successively  the  Dumbartonshire,  the  Vale  of  Leven,  the 
Forth  and  Clyde,  the  Dumbarton  and  Helensburgh, 
and  the  Strathendrick  I'ailways.  They  have  also  derived 
increase,  from  demands  and  facilities  for  shipbuilding, 
from  the  growing  increase  of  summer  tourists  to  Loch 
Lomond  and  Loch  Long,  and  from  summer  residence  of 
multitudes  of  Glasgow  citizens  at  Helensburgh,  Gareloch- 
head,  Roseneath,  Kilcreggan,  Cove,  Arrochar,  and  other 
places  ;  and  they  now  figure  so  largely  and  vigorously  as  to 
compete  in  value  ^vith  the  arts  of  agriculture.  Most  of 
the  low  tracts  of  the  county,  even  such  as  possess  no 
coal  within  their  o'wn  limits,  have  followed  Glasgow  and 
tried  to  rival  it  in  some  of  its  departments  of  manufac- 
ture. The  Vale  of  Leven,  in  particular,  is  crowded  with 
bleachfields,  printfields,  dye-works,  and  cotton-works, 
giving  employment  to  thousands.  Cotton-printing, 
cotton-spinning,  paper -making,  iron -working,  ship- 
building, the  making  of  chemicals,  and  the  distilling  of 
whisky  are  all  more  or  less  prominent.  The  salmon  and 
herring  fisheries  are  also  highly  important  and  lucrative. 
The  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal,  besides  serving  for  water 
conveyance,  concentrates  some  trade  around  its  W  end 
at  Bowling  Bay.  The  deepening  of  the  Clyde,  in  addi- 
tion to  its  greatly  improving  the  navigation  and  stimulat- 
ing commerce,  produced  the  incidental  advantage  of 
adding  to  the  county  about  600  acres  of  rich  land — the 
spaces  behind  the  stone  walls,  formed  for  confining  the 
tidal  current,  having  rapidly  filled  up  with  a  fine 
alluvial  deposit,  which  soon  became  available  first 
for  meadow  and  next  for  the  plough.  The  steamboat 
communication  is  very  ample,  including  lines  up  and 
down  Loch  Lomond,  and  connecting  all  the  chief  places 
on  the  Clyde  and  on  the  sea-lochs  with  Greenock  and 
Glasgow.  The  railways  comprise  a  continuous  line 
from  Helensburgh  east-south-eastward  through  Dum- 
barton to  the  south-eastern  boundary  at  the  Kelvin,  and 
various  other  lines  and  branch  lines,  which  are  all  linked 
by  junctions  into  the  general  railway  system  of  Scotland. 

The  only  royal  burgh  is  Dumbarton.  The  other 
towns  are  Helensburgh,  Kirkintilloch,  Alexandria, 
Bonhill,  Renton,  and  Cumbernauld.  The  chief  villages 
are  Arrochar,  Balloch,  Bowling  Bay,   Cardross,  Clyde- 


bank, CondoiTat,  Cove,  Dalmuir,  Dalshohn,  Dum- 
buck,  Duntocher,  Faifley,  Gairlochhead,  Garscadden, 
Garscube,  Hardgate,  Jamestown,  Kilcreggan,  Knights- 
wood,  Little  Alill,  Luss,  Milton,  Nctherton,  New  Kil- 
patrick.  Old  Kilpatrirk,  Roseneath,  Smithston  Rows, 
Waterside,  with  parts  of  Yoker  and  Lenzic.  The  prin- 
cipal seats  are  Arden  House,  Ardincaple,  Ardmore, 
Ardoch,  Auchendennan,  Auchentorlie,  Auclientoshan, 
Balloch  Castle,  Balvie,  Baremman,  Barnhill,  Bloomhill, 
Bonhill  Place,  Boturich  Castle,  Cameron  House,  Camus 
Eskan,  Clober  House,  Cockno  House,  Cowden  Hill, 
Craigrownie,  Cumbernauld  House,  Darleith,  Dumbuck 
House,  Edinbarnet,  Finnart,  Garscadden,  Garscube, 
Gartshae  House,  Glenarbuck,  Helenslee,  Keppoch, 
Killermont,  Kilmahew,  Kilmardinny,  Knoxland,  Len- 
noxbank,  Roseneath  Castle,  Rossdhu,  Strathleven, 
Stuckgowan,  Tillechewan  Castle,  Westerton  House, 
and  Woodhead.  According  to  Miscellaneous  Statistics 
of  the  United  Kingdom.  (1S79),  153,736  acres,  with  a 
total  gross  estimated  rental  of  £325,407,  were  divided 
among  2346  landowners, .  one  holding  67,041  acres 
(rental  £12,943),  two  together  15,979  (£8794),  eight 
20.221  (£29,970),  twelve  17,515  (£24,745),  eighteen 
12,152  (£15,336),  sixty-three  14,737  (£67,632),  etc. 

The  places  of  worship  within  the  civil  county,  in  1881, 
were  17  quoad  civilia  parish  churches,  9  quoad  sacra 
parish  churches,  3  chapels  of  ease,  21  Free  churches,  11 
U.P.  churches,  1  United  Original  Secession  church,  1 
Independent  chapel,  2  Baptist  chapels,  1  Methodist 
chapel,  1  Evangelical  Union  chapel,  3  Episcopal  churches, 
and  5  Roman  Catholic  churches.  In  Sept.  1880  the 
county  had  50  schools  (39  of  them  public),  which,  with 
total  accommodation  for  11,695  children,  had  9729 
on  the  registers  and  7171  in  average  attendance,  the 
certificated,  assistant,  and  pupil  teachers  numbering 
96,  8,  and  87. 

The  county  is  governed  (1882)  by  a  lord-lieutenant, 
a  vice-lieutenant,  22  deputy-lieutenants,  a  sheriff,  a 
sheriff-substitute,  and  109  magistrates.  The  sheriff 
court  for  the  county,  and  the  commissarj''  court  are 
held  at  Dumbarton  on  every  Tuesday  and  Friday 
during  session  ;  sheriff's  small  debt  courts  are  held  at 
Dumbarton  on  every  Tuesday  during  session  and  occa- 
sionally during  vacation  ;  at  Kirkintilloch,  on  the  first 
Thursdays  of  March,  June,  September,  and  December  ; 
and  quarter  sessions  are  held  at  Dumbarton  on  the  first 
Tuesdays  of  March,  May,  and  August,  and  the  last 
Tuesday  of  October.  The  county  gaol  is  at  Dumbarton, 
and  has  been  noticed  in  our  account  of  that  town.  The 
committals  for  crime,  in  the  annual  average  of  1841-45, 
were  77  ;  of  1846-50,  127  ;  of  1851-55,  141  ;  of 
1856-60,  87  ;  of  1861-65,  77  ;  of  1865-70,  89  ;  of  1871- 
75,  50  ;  of  1876-80,  57.  The  police  force  of  the  county, 
in  1881,  excluding  9  men  for  Dumbarton,  comprised  43 
men  ;  and  the  salary  of  the  chief  constable  was  £250. 
The  number  of  persons  tried  at  the  instance  of  the 
police,  in  1880,  was  785  ;  convicted,  731  ;  committed  for 
trial,  45  ;  not  dealt  with,  35.  Exclusive  of  Dumbarton, 
the  county  returns  a  member  to  parliament  (Liberal 
1837-41,  Lib.-Con.  1841-68,  Con.  1868-81),  its  constitu- 
ency numbering  3009  in  1882.  The  annual  value  of  real 
property,  assessed  at  £71,587  in  1815,  was  £147,079  in 
1843,  £272,138  in  1875,  and  £384,627  in  1882,  or,  in- 
cluding railways,  etc.,  £458,761,  13s.  Pop.  (1801) 
20,710,  (1811)  24,169,  (1821)  27,317,  (1831)  33,211, 
(1841)  44,296,  (1851)  45,103,  (1861)  52,034,  (1871) 
58,857,  (1881)  75,327,  of  whom  37,311  Mere  males,  and 
38,016  females.  Houses  (1881)  14,259  inhabited,  1238 
vacant,  191  building. 

The  registration  county  takes  in  a  part  of  New  Kil- 
patritk  parish  from  Stirlingshire,  and  had,  in  1881,  a 
population  of  78,176.  All  the  parishes  are  assessed  for 
the  poor,  and  9  of  them,  with  3  in  Stirlingshire  and  1  in 
Perthshire,  are  included  in  Dumbarton  poor  law  com- 
bination. The  number  of  registered  poor,  during  the 
year  ending  14  May  1880,  was  1313  ;  of  dependants  on 
these,  881  ;  of  casual  poor,  899  ;  of  dependants  on 
these,  773.  The  receijits  for  the  poor  in  the  same 
vear  were  £14,408  ;  and  the  expenditure  was£13,790. 
^  389 


DUMBARTONSHIRE  RAILWAY 

The  number  of  pauper  lunatics  was  148,  and  the  ex- 
penditure on  their  account  was  £1163,  3s.  6d.  The  per- 
centage of  illegitimate  births  was  67  in  1871,  5 '9  in 
1876,  5 '4  in  1879,  and  4-8  in  1880. 

The  territory  now  forming  Dumliartonshire  belonged 
anciently  to  the  Caledonian  Damnonii  or  Attacotti ;  was 
included  by  the  Romans  in  their  province  of  Yespasiana ; 
and,  exclusive  of  its  detached  district,  was  long  a  main 
part  of  the  ancient  district  of  Lennox  or  Levenax. 
That  district  included  a  large  part  of  what  is  now  Stir- 
lingshire, and  portions  of  what  are  now  Perthshire  and 
Renfrewshire.  It  was  constituted  a  county  by  AVilliam  the 
Lyon,  and  underwent  curtailments  after  some  period  in 
the  13th  century,  reducing  it  to  the  limits  of  the  present 
main  body  of  Dumbartonshire.  The  county  then  changed 
its  name  from  Lennox  to  Dumbartonshire  ;  and,  in  the 
time  of  Robert  I. ,  had  annexed  to  it  its  present  detached 
district.  It  was  the  scene  of  many  contests  between 
Caledonians  and  Romans,  between  Cumbrians  and 
Saxons,  between  Scots  and  Picts,  between  Highland 
clan  and  Highland  clan,  between  the  caterans  and  the 
Lowlanders,  between  different  parties  in  the  several 
civil  wars  of  Scotland  ;  and  made  a  great  figure,  espe- 
cially in  the  affairs  of  Antoninus'  Wall  and  those 
of  the  Cumbrian  or  Strathclyde  kingdom,  in  the  events 
of  the  wars  of  the  succession,  and  the  turmoils  of  the 
cateran  forays  in  the  time  of  Eob  Roy.  Some  of  the 
salient  points  in  its  history  are  touched  in  the  account 
of  Dumbarton  Castle,  and  in  the  article  on  Lennox. 
Several  cairns  and  a  cromlech  still  extant,  several 
rude  stone  coffins,  and  fire-hollowed  canoes  found 
imbedded  in  the  mud  of  the  river  close  to  the  castle  a 
few  years  ago,  are  memorials  of  its  Caledonian  period. 
A  number  of  old  rude  forts  or  entrenchments,  parti- 
cularly in  its  Highland  districts,  are  memorials  of 
Caledonian,  Pictish,  and  Scandinavian  warfare  within 
its  limits.  Vestiges  of  Antoninus'  Wall,  and  relics 
found  on  the  site  of  that  wall  along  all  the  N  border  of 
its  detached  district,  and  along  the  SE  border  of  its 
main  Ijody  onward  to  the  wall's  western  end  at  Chapel- 
hill  in  the  vicinity  of  Old  Kilpatrick  village,  and  an 
ancient  bridge  and  a  sudatorium  at  Duntocher,  are 
memorials  of  the  Romans.  Several  objects  in  Dum- 
barton Castle,  and  particularly  historical  records  in 
connection  with  the  castle,  are  memorials  of  the  civil 
wars ;  a  mound  in  the  E  end  of  Cardross  parish,  not 
far  from  Dumbarton  town,  indicates  the  last  residence 
or  death -place  of  Robert  Bruce  ;  numerous  old  castles, 
some  scarcely  traceable,  some  existing  as  ruins,  some 
incorporated  with  modern  buildings,  as  at  Faslane,  Bal- 
loch,  Ardincaple,  Dunglass,  and  Kirkintilloch,  are 
relics  of  the  several  periods  of  the  baronial  times  ;  and 
other  objects  in  various  parts,  particularly  in  Glenfruin, 
are  memorials  of  sanguinary  conflicts  among  the  clans. 
See  Joseph  Irving's  History  of  Du7nhartonshire,  Civil, 
Ecclesiastical,  and  Territorial  (Dumb.  1860)  ;  his  Book 
of  Dumhartonsliire  (3  vols.  1879)  ;  and  William  Eraser's 
Chiefs  of  Colquhoun  and  their  Country  (2  vols.,  Edinb., 
1869). 

Dumbartonshire  Railway.  See  Caledonian  Rail- 
way. 

Dumbreck,  a  hill  on  the  mutual  boundary  of  Strath- 
blane  and  Cam psie  parishes,  SW  Stirlingshire,  culminat- 
ing l.|  mile  NNE  of  Strathblane  village,  and  rising  to  an 
altitude  of  1664  feet  above  sea-level.  It  forms  part  of 
the  western  chain  of  the  Lennox  Hills  ;  and  overhangs 
Ballagan  Glen  on  the  W,  and  Fin  Glen  on  the  E. 

Dumbreck,  a  triangular  loch  (2xjs  furl.)  in  Strath- 
blane parisli,  SW  Stirlingshire,  1  mile  SW  of  Strath- 
bhine  village. 

Dumbuck,  a  village  and  a  mansion  in  the  W  of  Old 
Kilpatrick  parish,  Dumbartonshire.  The  village  stands 
near  the  Clyde,  If  mile  E  by  S  of  Dumbarton  ;  and  the 
nei'dibouriiig  mansion,  Dumbuck  House,  is  the  property 
of  John  Edward  Geils,  Esrp  (b.  1812;  sue.  1843),  who 
owns  655  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1209  per  annum. 
Wooded  Dumbuck  Hill  (547  feet),  immediately  to  the 
N,  is  a  bold  basaltic  abutment  from  the  south-western 
extremity  of  the  Kilpatrick  Hills,  that  stoops  preci-  I 
390 


DUMFRIES 

pitously  to  Dumbarton  plain.  It  commands  a  magni- 
ficent prospect  from  Tinto  to  Arran,  and  from  the 
Grampians  to  Ayrshire ;  and  so  much  outtops  Dum- 
barton Castle  as  easily  to  command  it  by  artillery,  yet 
was  occupied  with  little  efifect  by  Prince  Charles  Edward's 
forces  in  the  '45. 

Dumbuils,  an  eminence  (300  feet)  in  Forgandenny 
parish,  SE  Perthshire,  1  mile  SE  of  Forgandenny  village. 
Low,  craggy,  and  elliptical,  it  has  traces  on  the  crests 
of  its  accessible  sides  of  an  ancient  bulwark,  formed  of 
very  large  granite  boulders  ;  and  it  commands  a  brilliant 
view  of  Lower  Strathearn  and  the  Firth  of  Tay. 

Dumcrieff,  a  handsome  mansion,  with  finely  wooded 
grounds,  in  Moffat  parish,  N  Dumfriesshire,  on  the 
right  bank  of  Moffat  Water,  2  miles  SE  of  IMoffat  town. 
Owned  first  by  Murrays,  then  by  the  future  Sir  George 
Clerk  of  Penicuik,  it  was  the  residence  about  1785  of 
John  Loudon  Macadam,  of  road-making  celebrity,  and 
next  of  Burns's  biographer,  Dr  James  Currie  (1756- 
1805),  by  whom,  a  few  months  before  his  death,  it  was 
sold  to  l)r  John  Rogerson  (1741-1823),  court  physician 
at  St  Petersburg  for  close  upon  fifty  years,  it  now 
belongs  to  his  great-grandson.  Lord  Polio,  who  holds 
7220  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £3044  per  annum. 
See  DuNCKTJB. 

Dumfin,  an  eminence  (200  feet)  in  Luss  parish,  Dum- 
bartonshire, on  the  left  bank  of  Fruin  W^ater,  3  miles 
ENE  of  Helensburgh.  It  takes  its  name,  signifying 
'the  fort  of  Fin,'  from  its  legendary  connection  with 
Fingal ;  and  it  has  traces  of  an  ancient  fort. 

Dumfries,  a  to^-n  and  a  parish  on  the  SW  border  of 
Dumfriesshire.  A  royal  and  parliamentary  burgh,  a 
seaport— since  the  era  of  railways  of  little  importance — 
a  seat  of  manufacture,  the  capital  of  Dumfriesshire,  the 
assize  town  for  the  south-western  counties,  and  practically 
the  metropolis  of  a  great  extent  of  the  S  of  Scotland, 
the  town  stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Nith,  and 
on  the  Glasgow  and  South-Wcstern  railway  at  the 
junction  of  the  lines  to  Lockerbie  and  Portpatrick,  by 
rail  being  14^  miles  WSW  of  Lockerbie,  15 J  AVNW  of 
Annan,  19|  NE  of  Castle-Douglas,  80^  ENE  of  Port- 
Patrick,  42i  SE  of  Cumnock,  92  SE  by  S  of  Glasgow, 
S9f  S  by  W"of  Edinburgh,  33  WNV:  of  Cariisle,  and  333| 
NNW  of  London.  The  site  is  mainly  a  gentle  elevation, 
nowhere  higher  than  80  feet  above  sea-level,  partly  the 
low  flat  ground  at  its  skirts  ;  extends  about  1  mile  from  N 
to  S,  parallel  to  the  river  ;  rises  steeply  from  the  banks 
at  the  N  end,  and  is  blocked  there  by  a  curve  in  the 
river's  course  ;  and  bears  the  lines  of  Castle  Street  and 
High  Street  along  its  summit.  Maxwelltown,  along 
the  Kirkcudbrightshire  bank  of  the  Nith,  directly  oppo- 
site and  nearly  of  the  same  length  as  Dumfries,  seems 
to  be  rather  a  part  of  the  town  than  a  suburb,  and  is 
partly  included  in  the  parliamentary  (though  not  in  the 
royal)  burgh.  Behind  JMaxwelltown  to  the  W  is  Corbelly 
Hill,  a  broad-based,  round,  and  finely-outlined  elevation, 
on  the  summit  of  which  stand  a  church  and  convent  of 
the  Immaculate  Conception,  erected  in  1881-82,  from  de- 
signs by  Messrs  Pugin,  for  Nuns  of  the  Perpetual  Adora- 
tion of  the  Blessed  Sacrament ;  whilst  a  little  lower  down 
is  a  picturesque  building,  serving  the  double  purpose 
of  an  observatory  and  a  museum  of  natural  history  and 
antiquities  The  view  from  the  top  of  this  hill  is  very 
extensive,  and  also  of  great  natural  beauty — the  broad 
and  level  valley,  for  the  most  part  highly  cultivated, 
of  the  Nith,  abounding  in  mansions,  villas,  gardens,  and 
nursery  grounds  ;  the  iloH'at  and  Galloway  Hills,  with 
the  higher  peaks  of  Queensberry  and  Criffel ;  and,  over 
the  Solway,  the  far-away  Cumberland  mountains.  Alto- 
gether, the  landscape,  seen  from  the  top  of  Corbelly  Hill, 
is  not  so  unlike  the  plains  of  Lombardy.  Dumfries  itself, 
in  architectural  structure,  relative  position,  social  charac- 
ter, marketing  importance,  and  general  influence,  holds  a 
high  rank  among  the  towns  of  the  kingdom.  It  is  a 
minor  capital,  ruling  in  the  S  with  nearly  as  much  sway 
as  Edinburgh  in  the  E.  It  has  either  within  itself  or 
in  its  immediate  outskirts  an  unusually  large  proportion 
of  educated  and  wealthy  inhabitants,  giving  evident 
indication  of  their  presence  in  the  tone  and  manners ; 


DUMFRIES 


DUMFRIES 


and  is  seen  at  once,  by  even  a  passing  stranger,  to  be  a 
place  of  opulence,  taste,  and  pretension.  It  has  some- 
times been  called,  by  its  admirers,  '  the  Queen  of  the 
South ; '  and  it  was  designated  by  the  poet  Burns, '  Maggie 
by  the  banks  o'  Nith,  a  dame  wi'  pride  eneuch.'  It  is 
the  cynosure  of  the  south-western  counties ;  and  it 
swaj's  them  alike  in  the  interests  of  mind,  of  trade, 
and  of  commerce.  It  has  no  rival  or  competitor, 
none  at  least  that  can  materially  compare  with  it, 
between  Ayr  and  Carlisle,  or  between  the  Irish  Sea  and 
the  Lowther  ilountains.  And  even  as  a  town,  though 
other  influential  towns  were  not  remote,  it  challenges 
notice  for  its  terraces  and  pleasant  walks  beside 
the  river  ;  for  its  lines  and  groups  of  villas  around 
its  outskirts ;  for  its  picturesqueness  of  aspect  as 
seen  from  many  a  vantage-ground  in  the  near  vici- 
nity ;  for  the  spaciousness  of  its  principal  streets ; 
and  for  a  certain,  curious,  pleasing  romance  in  the 
style  and  collocation  of  many  of  its  edifices.  It  so 
blends  regularity  of  alignment  with  irregularity  as  to 
be  far  more  fascinating  than  if  it  were  strictly  regular  ; 
and  it  so  exhibits  its  building  material,  a  red-coloured 
Permian  sandstone,  now  in  the  full  flush  of  freshness 
from  the  quarry,  now  in  worn  aspects  of  erosion  by  time, 
as  to  present  a  tout  ensemble  of  mingled  sadness  and 
gaiety. 

Three  bridges  connect  Dumfries  and  Maxwelltown  ; 
but  only  the  uppermost  one  is  available  for  carriages ; 
and  this  commands  a  good  view  of  all  the  riverward 
features  of  the  burgh  and  the  suburb,  stretching  partly 
to  the  N  but  chiefly  to  the  S.  The  space  along  the 
Dumfries  bank,  between  the  bridges,  is  a  wide  street- 
terrace  ;  the  space  further  down,  to  a  much  greater  dis- 
tance, is  an  expanded  or  very  wide  street-terrace,  used 
partly  as  the  cattle  market,  partly  as  a  timber  market, 
and  called  the  Sands ;  and  the  space  still  further  down, 
opposite  the  foot  of  the  town  and  a  long  way  past  it,  is 
a  broad  grassy  promenade,  fringed  along  the  inner  side 
by  a  noble  umbrageous  avenue,  and  called  the  Dock. 
The  central  streets  present  an  array  of  fairly  well-ap- 
pointed shops.  All  the  streets  are  paved,  drained,  clean, 
and  well-lighted  ;  and  outlets  on  the  roads  to  the  N,  to 
the  S,  and  to  the  E  are  studded  with  villas.  Yet  parts 
of  the  to^^^l,  particularly  numerous  lanes  or  closes  off 
High  Street,  some  intersecting  lanes  from  street  to 
street,  and  portions  of  the  old  narrow  streets  are  disagree- 
able and  unwholesome.  The  Nith  contributes  much  to 
both  salubrity  and  beauty ;  ajJproaches,  in  long  winding 
sweeps,  imder  high  banks  richly  clothed  with  wood  ; 
breaks  immediately  beyond  the  lower  bridge,  over  a 
high  caul,  built  for  the  water  supply  of  gi-ain  mills  on 
the  Maxwelltown  side  ;  swells  into  a  lake-like  expanse 
above  the  caul  ;  leaps  into  rapid  current  at  low  tide 
below  it ;  is  driven  back  by  the  flow  of  tide  against  it ; 
and,  both  above  and  below  the  town,  to  the  extent  of 
several  miles,  has  verdant  banks  tracked  mth  public 
roads  and  footpaths. 

The  uppermost  bridge  was  built  in  1790-94  ;  encoun- 
tered great  difficulties  in  the  erection  ;  cost,  with  the 
approaches  to  it,  £4588  ;  and  occasioned,  for  the  forming 
of  Buccleuch  Street,  an  additional  cost  of  £1769  ;  and  is 
a  structure  more  substantial  than  elegant,  yet  not  desti- 
tute of  beauty.  The  middle  bridge  was  built  in  the  13th 
century  by  Devorgilla,  mother  of  John  Baliol ;  and  for 
many  long  generations  was  held  to  be  second  only 
to  London  Bridge.  It  had  originally  nine  arches,  and 
is  commonly,  but  erroneously,  said  to  have  had  thirteen  ; 
suS"ered,  in  course  of  burghal  improvements,  demolition 
of  about  one-third  of  its  length  at  the  Dumfries  end  ; 
has  now  only  six  arches ;  is  ascended,  at  the  Dumfries 
end,  by  a  flight  of  steps,  so  as  to  be  accessible  only  by 
foot  passengers  ;  and  makes  a  prominent  figure  both  in 
curious  picturesqueness  and  as  a  great  work  of  the  early 
mediseval  times.  The  lowermost  bridge  was  opened  on 
the  last  day  of  1875  ;  cost  nearly  £1800  ;  is  an  iron 
suspension  structure  for  pedestrians  ;  mcasui-es  203  feet 
in  length  and  6^  feet  in  width  ;  and  has  sides  of  trellis 
work  rising  35  feet  from  the  roadway  to  the  finial.  The 
County  Buildings  stand  on  the  S  side  of  the  lower  part 


of  Buccleuch  Street ;  were  erected  in  1863-66,  after 
designs  by  David  Rhind,  of  Edinburgh,  with  aid  of 
£10,418  from  Government ;  are  in  the  Scottish  Baronial 
style,  with  peaked  towers  and  open  Italianised  para- 
pets ;  present  an  imposing  castellated  appearance  ;  rise 
to  a  height  of  four  stories,  including  a  sunk  story  ;  and 
contain  a  court-hall  with  accommodation  for  300  persons, 
and  offices  or  rooms  for  all  departments  of  the  county 
business.  The  prison  of  1851,  adjoining  the  E  end  of 
the  County  Buildings,  is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall, 
that  greatly  disfigures  the  aspect  of  the  street.  This 
building,  not  fulfilling  the  requirements  deemed  necessary 
in  modern  prisons,  has  been  condemned  ;  and  a  .site  for 
a  new  one  was  purchased  by  government  in  1881  for 
£1400  on  the  western  outskirts  of  Maxwelltown.  The 
Town-Hall,  on  the  N  side  of  Buccleuch  Street,  opposite 
the  prison,  was  originally  the  spacious  chapel  or  '  taljer- 
nacle '  erected  by  Robert  Haldane  in  1799.  Having 
stood  for  some  years  unoccupied  after  the  Haldane 
collapse,  it  was  purchased  in  1814,  altered,  renovated, 
and  architecturally  adorned,  to  be  used  as  the  county 
courthouse  ;  and,  after  the  opening  of  the  new  County 
Buildings  in  1866,  was  sold  for  £1020  to  the  town 
council.  Within  it  hang  portraits  of  William  and  Mary 
of  Orange,  and  Charles,  the  third  Duke  of  Queensberry ; 
and  here  is  preserved  the  famous  Silver  Gun  of  the  Seven 
Trades,  the  mimic  cannon,  10  inches  long,  which  James 
VI.  presented  to  the  craftsmen  in  1617,  to  be  shot  for 
on  Kingholm  Merse — a  custom  kept  up  till  1831.  The 
stack  of  buildings  in  the  centre  of  High  Street,  cleaving 
it  for  a  brief  space  into  two  narrow  thoroughfares,  con- 
tains the  old  town  council  room,  and  is  surmounted  by 
a  steeple  called  originally  the  Tron,  but  now  the  Mid, 
Steeple.  This  steeple  was  erected  in  1707,  at  a  cost  of 
£1500,  from  designs  (not  of  Inigo  Jones,  but)  of  a  cer- 
tain Tobias  Bachup  of  Alloa.  It  figures  prominently, 
both  in  the  High  Street's  own  range  and  in  every  land- 
scape view  of  the  town,  but  has  now  a  weather-worn  and 
neglected  appearance.  The  Trades  Hall,  on  the  E  side 
of  High  Street  opposite  the  Mid  Steeple,  was  rebuilt 
in  1804  at  a  cost  of  £11,670  ;  and,  the  trades'  corpora- 
tion privileges  having  been  abolished  in  1846,  was 
sold  to  a  merchant  in  1847  for  £650.  The  Assembly 
Rooms  stand  in  George  Street,  were  erected  at  a  compara- 
tively recent  period,  and  are  neat  and  commodious. 
The  Theatre,  in  Shakespeare  Street,  built  in  1790,  and 
rebuilt  and  decorated  in  1876,  was  the  scene  of  early 
eftbrts  of  Edmund  Kean  and  Macready.  A  Doric  column 
to  the  memory  of  the  third  Duke  of  Queensberry  was 
erected  in  Queensberry  Square  in  1804  ;  and  an  orna- 
mental public  fountain  (1860)  stands  in  the  centre  of 
the  lower  expansion  of  High  Street. 

The  railway  station  stands  at  the  north-eastern  extre- 
mity of  the  town  ;  was  constructed,  in  lieu  of  a  previous 
adjacent  one,  in  1863;  and  contains  accommodation  for 
the  junctions  of  the  lines  from  Lockerbie  and  Portpatrick 
with  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western.  It  includes  a  fine 
suite  of  buildings  for  offices,  waiting-rooms,  and  hotel ; 
had,  till  1876,  all  its  building  on  the  W  side  of  the  rail- 
wav,  confronted,  along  the  opposite  side,  by  a  broad 
brilliant  parterre  ;  but  in  1875-76,  preparatory  to  its  be- 
coming the  working  nexus  between  the  Scottish  systems 
and  the  English  Midland  system,  rmderwent  great  exten- 
sion and  improvement  by  the  erection  of  a  booking-office 
and  other  buildings  on  the  E  side,  the  provision  of  three 
times  the  previous  amount  of  accommodation  ibr  goods, 
the  construction  of  new  premises  for  engines  and  smiths' 
shops,  the  formation  of  a  great  series  of  new  sidings,  the 
laying  down  of  three  new  lines  of  rails,  and  the  opening 
of  a  new  approach  street,  so  that  it  is  now  a  station  at 
once  handsome,  picturesque,  and  commodious.  A  via- 
duct of  the  Glasgow  and  Nortli-Wcstern  railway  crosses 
the  Nith  about  a  mile  N  of  the  station  ;  and  some  other 
railway  works  of  considerable  magnitude  are  in  the 
vicinity.  Most  of  the  banking-offices  in  the  town  are 
neat  or  handsome  edifices,  and  .several  of  them  are  of 
recent  erection.  The  King's  Arms  Hotel  and  the  Com- 
mercial Hotel,  on  the  confronting  sides  of  tlic  lower  ex- 
pansion of  High  Street,  are  old  and  spacious  cstahlish- 

391 


DUMFRIES 

ments  ;  and  the  latter  was  the  headquarters  of  Prince 
Charles  Edward  during  three  days  of  Dec.  1745. 
The  QueensbeiTy  Hotel,  near  the  junction  of  English 
Street  and  High  Street,  is  a  recent  elegant  erection. 
The  Southern  Counties  Club,  in  Irish  Street,  was 
erected  in  1874 ;  is  a  handsome  two-story  edifice ;  and  con- 
tains an  elegant  billiard  room,  45  feet  bj'  25,  and  other 
fine  large  apartments.  Nithsdale  woollen  factory,  at 
the  foot  of  St  Michael  Street,  overlooking  the  Dock 
promenade,  was  erected  in  1858-59  ;  is  a  vast,  massive, 
turreted  edifice,  almost  palatial  in  aspect ;  and  has  a 
chimney  stalk  rising  to  the  height  of  174  feet.  Tro- 
queer  woollen  factories,  on  the  Kirkcudbrightshire  side 
of  the  Nith,  almost  directly  opposite  the  Nithsdale  fac- 
tor)', are  two  structures  of  respectively  1866-67  and 
1869-70,  and  more  than  compete  with  the  Nithsdale 
factory  in  both  extent  of  area  and  grandeur  of  ajipear- 
ance. 

St  Slichael's  Established  church  stands  off  the  E  side 
of  St  Michael  Street,  near  the  site  of  its  pre -Reformation 
predecessor.  Built  in  1744-45,  and  repewed  and  reno- 
vated in  1869  and  1881,  it  contains  1250  sittings,  and 
is  surmounted  by  a  plain  but  imposing  steeple,  130  feet 
high.  The  churchyard  around  it — a  burial-jilace  for 
upwards  of  seven  centuries — is  crowded  with  obelisks, 
columns,  urns,  and  other  monuments  of  the  dead,  com- 
puted to  number  folly  3000,  and  to  have  been  raised  at 
an  aggregate  cost  of  from  £30,000  to  £100, 000.  Among 
them  are  the  mausoleum  of  the  poet  Burns,  a  granite 
]>yi'amid  (1834)  to  the  memory  of  three  martyi's  of  the 
Covenant,  and  over  300  'first-class monuments.'  Grey- 
friars  Established  church  stands  on  the  site  of  Dumfries 
Castle,  fronting  the  N  end  of  High  Street,  and  succeeded 
a  previous  church  on  the  same  site,  built  in  1727  partly 
of  materials  from  the  ancient  castle.  Itself  erected  in 
1866-67,  after  designs  by  Mr  Starforth,  of  Edinburgh, 
at  a  cost  of  nearly  £7000,  it  is  a  richly  ornamented 
Gothic  edifice,  the  finest  in  the  burgh,  with  a  beautiful 
spire  164  feet  high.  St  Mary's  Established  church,  at 
the  N  end  of  English  Street,  on  the  site  of  a  14tli 
century  chantry,  reared  by  the  widow  of  Sir  Christopher 
Seton,  was  built  in  1837-39,  after  designs  by  John  Hen- 
derson, of  Edinburgh,  at  a  cost  of  £2400.  It  also  is 
Gothic,  with  an  open  spire  formed  by  flying  buttresses, 
and  was  renovated  and  reseated  in  1878.  The  Free 
church  in  George  Street,  built  in  1843-44  at  a  cost  of 
£1400,  is  a  plain  mansion-like  edifice,  containing  984 
sittings.  The  Territorial  Free  church,  at  the  junction  of 
Shakespeare  Street  with  the  foot  of  High  Street,  was 
built  in  1864-65  at  a  cost  of  £1800,  and  contains 
500  sittings.  The  U.P.  church  in  Loreburn  Street, 
rebuilt  in  1829  at  a  cost  of  more  than  £900,  contains 
500  sittings.  The  U.P.  church  in  Buccleuch  Street,  re- 
built in  1862-63,  after  designs  by  Alexander  Crombie, 
at  a  cost  of  £2000,  is  a  handsome  Gothic  edifice, 
and  contains  700  sittings.  The  U.P.  church,  in  Town- 
head  Street,  was  built  in  1867-68  ;  succeeded  a  previous 
church  in  Queensberry  Street,  built  in  1788 ;  is  a 
handsome  edifice ;  and  contains  460  sittings.  The 
Reformed  Presbyterian  church,  on  the  E  side  of  Irving 
Street,  was  built  in  1831-32,  and  interiorly  recon- 
structed in  1866  ;  is  a  neat  building  ;  and  contains  650 
.sittings.  The  Independent  chapel,  on  the  "VV  side  of 
Irving  Street,  was  built  in  1835,  enlarged  in  1862, 
repewed  and  renovated  in  1880  ;  is  a  neat  structure  in 
the  Italian  style  ;  and  contains  650  sittings.  The  Wes- 
leyan  chapel  in  Buccleuch  Street,  at  the  corner  of  Castle 
Street,  is  a  modest  edifice,  and  contains  400  sittings. 
The  Episcopal  church  of  St  John's,  in  Dunbar  Terrace, 
was  built  in  1867-68,  after  designs  by  Slater  and 
Carpenter,  of  London  ;  is  a  striking  structure  in  pure 
First  Pointed  style,  with  a  tower  and  spire  120  feet 
high;  and  contains  460  sittings.  The  Catholic  Apos- 
tolic chapel,  in  Queen  Street,  was  built  in  1865  at  a 
cost  of  £1000,  and  is  a  small  building  with  a  towerlet 
and  pinnacle  58  feet  high.  The  Baptist  chapel  in 
Newall  Terrace,  successor  to  one  in  Irisli  Street,  is  a 
solid,  plain  edifice,  seated  for  420,  erected  in  1880 
at  a  cost  of  £1900.     The  Roman  Catholic  church  of  St 


DUMFRIES 

Andrew,  pro-cathedral  of  the  diocese  of  Whithorn  or 
Galloway,  in  Shakespeare  Street,  near  English  Street, 
was  built  in  1811-13  at  a  cost  of  £2600.  Romanesque 
in  style  with  Byzautine  features,  it  received  the  addition 
of  a  fine  tower  and  octagonal  spire  (1843-58),  147  feet 
liigh,  of  N  and  S  transepts  and  a  domed  apse  (1871-72); 
and  in  1879  the  interior  was  beautifully  decorated  with 
arabesque  designs.  For  all  these  improvements  St 
Andrew's  is  indebted  to  the  Maxwells  of  Terrcgles,  and 
mainly  to  the  late  Hon.  I\Iarmaduke  Constable  Maxwell, 
a  monument  to  whom  was  placed  in  it  in  1876.  The 
Roman  Catholic  schools  adjoining  the  cliuixh  are  ex- 
cellent buildings  ^vith  separate  departments  for  boys, 
girls,  and  infants.  Pupils  on  roll,  430  ;  average  attend- 
ance, 360  ;  Government  gi'ant,  May  1881,  £296,  Os.  6d. 
The  jMarist  Brothers,  a  R.C.  teaching  order,  a  lay  as- 
sociation of  men,  under  vows  of  obedience,  poverty,  and 
chastity,  have,  since  1874,  had  their  head  house  for  the 
three  kingdoms  at  St  l^Iichael's  Mount,  formerly  Lam-al 
Bank,  a  mansion  within  5  or  6  acres  of  ground  in  a 
south-eastern  suburb.  St  Michael's  Mount  is  also  used 
as  a  sanatorium  for  the  invalided  brothers  of  the  Order ;  a 
Provincial  resides  ;  and  there  is  a  Novitiate  attached.  St 
Joseph's  Commercial  College,  formerly  the  old  infirmary 
building,  altered  and  enlarged,  is  a  R.C.  middle-class 
boarding  school  for  boys,  conducted  by  these  Marist 
Brothers.  About  40  pupils  from  various  parts  of  the 
kingdom,  and  a  few  foreigners,  are  instructed  in  modern 
languages,  mathematics,  English,  etc. 

The  Academy  or  High  School,  erected  in  1802  on  the 
brow  of  the  Nith's  steep  bank  near  Greyfriars'  church, 
is  surrounded  by  a  playground,  1-^  acre  in  extent, 
and  presents  a  plain  j^et  imposing  appearance.  With 
accommodation  for  500  scholars,  it  gives  instruction 
to  boys  and  girls  in  classics,  modern  languages, 
mathematics,  arithmetic,  -writing,  drawing,  and  all  de- 
partments of  English.  Under  the  school-board,  the 
Academy  is  conducted  by  a  rector,  3  other  masters, 
3  assistants,  and  1  lady  teacher,  mth  endo^^^nents 
amounting  to  £262,  and  £48  per  annum  to  keep  up 
fabric  from  the  to\A-n.  In  1882  there  were  281  pupUs 
on  the  roll.  There  are  several  bursaries — 1  of  £18,  1  of 
£15,  3  or  4  each  of  £12,  and  a  number  of  special  prizes, 
besides  22  bursaries  provided  for  by  additional  bequests, 
entitling  successful  competitors  to  a  free  education  at 
the  Academy,  with  use  of  books.  There  are  1  private 
school  for  boys  and  2  ladies'  schools,  all  well  attended. 
There  are  3  elementary  board  schools — Lorubum  Street, 
St  Michael  Street,  and  Greensands,  of  which  the  two 
first  were  erected  in  1876  at  a  cost  of  £3770  and  £2800. 
With  respective  accommodation  for  500,  400,  and  236, 
the  three  had  a  total  avei-age  attendance  of  1064  during 
1881. 

School  fees — Elementary  schools,       .    £639  10     3 
,,  Academy,       .         .         .     1510  12    9 

School  rate, 1182  16     1 

Teachers' salaries — Elementary  schools,  1467     6     6 
,,  Academy,     .         .     1660     4  10 

The  Episcopal  school — a  small  plain  building  in  St 
David  Street — has  130  scholars  on  the  roll,  an  average 
attendance  of  100,  and  a  government  grant  of  £80.  The 
Industrial  school,  Burns  Street,  founded  in  1856,  with 
accommodation  for  80  boys  in  1882,  is  supported  partly 
by  voluntary  contribution  and  partly  by  government 
grant.  There  are  also  an  Industrial  Home  for  destitute 
and  orphan  girls,  supported  by  voluntary  contribution  ; 
and  several  charitable  associations  of  a  minor  character. 
In  1880,  a  Youn^  Men's  Christian  Association  and  a 
Young  Women's  do.  were  established,  both  having  since 
been  fairly  well  supported.  The  Mechanics'  Institute 
(1825),  near  the  foot  of  Irish  Street,  was  built  in  1859-61, 
and  is  a  First  Pointed  edifice,  including  a  lecture-hall 
(76  X  58  feet ;  46  high),  with  accommodation  for  1000 
persons,  in  which  cheap  public  lectures  are  delivered 
during  the  winter  montns.  Connected  Mith  the  main 
building,  but  facing  St  Michael  Street,  stands  the 
antique  town-house  of  the  Stewarts  of  Shambelly,  which 
serves  for  reading-room  and  librarj',  and  is  also  the 
librarian's  residence.     The  Crichtoii  Institution,  on  a 


DUMFRIES 

rising-ground  off  tlie  public  roail,  IJ  mile  SSE  of  the 
town,  originated  in  a  bequest  of  over  £100,000  by  Dr 
James  Crichton  of  Friars  Carse.  He  had  thought  of  a 
university  ;  but,  owing  to  the  failure  of  attempts  to 
obtain  a  charter,  his  trustees  decided  to  construct  a 
lunatic  asvlum  for  affluent  patients.  As  partially  buUt 
(1835-39), "at  a  cost  of  fully  £50,000,  it  was  to  have 
taken  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  with  central  low 
octagonal  tower,  but,  as  completed  (1870)  at  a  further 
outlay  of  £40,000,  it  has  somewhat  departed  from  the 
original  plan,  the  whole  being  now  a  dignified  Italian 
edifice,  one  of  whose  finest  featm-es  is  the  magnificent 
recreation  hall.  The  neighbouring  Southern  Counties 
Asylum,  for  pauper  lunatics,  was  erected  in  1848  at  a 
cost  of  £20,000  ;  it  and  the  Crichton  Royal  Institution 
had  respectively  359  and  145  inmates  in  ISSl. 

The  Dumfries  parish  schools  (landward)  ai'e  Catherine- 
field,  Noblehill  and  Throhoughton,  Kelton  and  Brown- 
hall  combined — three  in  all.  For  1881  the  aggregate 
fees  were  £187,  5s.  5d.  ;  annual  education  grant  £372, 
10s.  6d.  ;  balance  from  rates  £215,  16s.  7d.  ;  teachers' 
salaries  £652,  14s.  lid.  ;  retiring  allowances  £70. 

In  1879,  the  estate  of  Hannahfield  and  Kingholm 
having  fallen  to  the  Queen  as  ultima  hares,  that  portion 
of  the  estate  to  the  south  of  the  town  on  the  river  bank, 
known  as  Kingholm  Merse,  has  been  made  over  to  the 
coi-poration — subject  to  servitude  in  favour  of  the  War 
Department — for  golf,  cricket,  and  purposes  of  general 
sport  and  recreation.  The  cro^vn  has  also  granted  a 
gift  of  £9500  from  the  estate,  in  trust,  for  the  improve- 
ment of  education  in  the  counties  of  Dumfries  and 
Wigtown  and  in  the  stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright ;  the 
trustees  to  create  bursaries  and  scholarships,  open  to 
competition  for  pupUs  educated  in  primary  schools, 
under  the  condition  that  successful  competitors  shall 
continue  their  education  at  secondary  schools  or  at 
universities.  The  trustees  have  now  in  operation  a 
'  tentative  scheme  for  the  Hannahfield  bursaries '  in  the 
three  counties,  which  is  likely  to  be  of  great  advantage 
to  many  deserving  students.  But  the  scheme  in  its  pre- 
sent form  is  thought  to  be  open  to  objection,  and  vnll 
certainly  be  referred  to  the  Education  Department  unless 
a  compromise  is  arrived  at  with  objecting  school-boards. 
The  Dumfries  and  Galloway  Royal  Infirmary  stands 
in  a  situation  similar  to  that  of  the  Crichton  Institu- 
tion, a  little  nearer  the  town  ;  was  erected  in  1869-71, 
after  designs  by  ilr  Starforth,  at  a  cost  of  £13,000  ; 
has  aiTangements  and  appliances  on  the  most  ap- 
proved plans ;  and  is  maintained  chiefly  by  legacies,  sub- 
scriptions, parochial  allowances,  and  annual  grants  from 
the  coimties  of  Dumfries,  Kirkcudbright,  and  Wigtown. 
The  workhouse  occupies  an  airy  healthy  site  to  the  S  of 
the  town  ;  was  erected  in  1853-54  at  a  cost  of  more  than 
£5500 ;  contains  accommodation  for  127  pauper  inmates  ; 
serves  entirely  for  the  parish  of  Dumfries  ;  and  has 
commonly  from  70  to  80  pauper  inmates,  maintained  at 
an  annual  cost  of  about  £600.  ilorehead's  Hospital 
stands  in  St  Michael  Street,  opposite  St  Michael's 
Church ;  was  fouuded  and  endowed,  in  1733,  by  two 
persons  of  the  name  of  Morehead ;  gives  lodging  and 
support  to  poor  orphans  and  aged  paupers  of  both  sexes, 
and  pensions  to  upwards  of  40  widows  at  their  own 
homes ;  and  is  maintained,  partly  by  its  own  funds, 
partly  by  subscriptions  and  donations. 

Dumfries  is  broadly  stamped  with  the  name  of  the 
poet  Burns  (1759-96).  His  term  of  residence  here 
flashed  on  the  popular  mind  so  vividly  as  to  have  been 
at  once  and  till  the  present  day  esteemed  an  epoch — 
'the  time  of  Bums.'  The  places  in  it  associated  with 
his  presence  outnumber,  at  least  outweigh,  those  in  Ayr, 
Irvine,  Kilmamock,  Tarbolton,  Mauchline,  or  Edin- 
burgh. He  appeared  first  in  the  town  on  4  Jime  1787, 
and  came  to  it  then  on  invitation  to  be  made  an 
honorary  burgess.  He  became  a  resident  in  it,  on  re- 
moval from  Ellisland,  in  December  1791.  For  eighteen 
months  he  lived  in  a  house  of  three  small  apartments, 
on  the  second  floor  of  a  tenement  on  the  N  side  of 
Bank  Street,  then  called  the  Wee  Vennel.  He  then 
removed  to   a  small,    self-contained,    two-story  house 


DUMFRIES 

on  the  S  side  of  a  short  mean  street  striking  eastward 
from  St  Michael  Street,  in  the  northern  vicinity  of  St 
Michael's  Church.     The  street  was  then  called  Millbrae 
or  5Iillbrae-Hole  ;  but,  after  Bums's  death,  was  desig- 
nated Burns  Street.    The  house,  in  the  smaller  of  whose 
two  bedrooms  he  died  on  21  July  1796,  was  occupied 
afterwards   by  his  widow  down  to  her  death  in  1834, 
and  purchased  in  1850  by  his  son,  Lieut. -Col.  William 
Kicol  Burns.     It  is  now  occupied  by  the  master  of  the 
adjoining  Industrial  School,  continues  to  be  as  much  as 
possible  in  the  same  condition  as  when  Burns  inhabited 
it,  and,  through  courtesy  of  its  present  occupant,   is 
shown  to  any  respectable  stranger.     Nearly  a  hundred 
of  Burns's  most  popular  songs,  including  '  Auld  Lang- 
syne,'  'Scots  wha  liae  wi'  Wallace  bled,'  'A  man's  a  man 
for  a'  that,'  '0  whistle  and  I'll  come  to  ye,  my  lad,' 
'My  love  is  like  a  red,  red  rose,'  'Ye  banks  and  braes  o' 
bonnie  Doon,'  'Cauld  kail  in  Aberdeen,'  'Willie  Wastle,' 
'Auld  Rob  Morris,'  and  'Duncan  Gray,'  were  written  by 
him  either  in  this  house  or  in  the  house  in  Bank  Street. 
Many  objects,  too,  in  and  near  the  town,  and  many  per- 
sons who  resided  in  or  near  it,  are  enshrined  in  his 
verse.     The  High  School  which  preceded  the  present 
academy  was  made  accessible  to  his  children  by  a  special 
deed  of  the  Town  Council  (1793),  that  put  him  on  the 
footing  of  a  real  freeman.     The   Antiburgher  Church 
in  Loreburn  Street,  on  the  site  of  the  present  U.P. 
church  there,  was  frequently  attended  by  him  in  ap- 
preciation of  the  high  excellence  of  the  minister  who 
then   served  it.     The  pew  which   he   more  regularly 
occupied  in  St  Michael's  Church  bore  the  initials,  '  R. 
B, '  cut  with  a  knife  by  his  own  hand  ;  and  was  sold,  at 
the  repairing  of  the  church  in  1869,  for  £5.     A  window 
pane  of  the  King's  Arms  Hotel,  on  which  he  scratched 
an  epigi'am,  drew  for  a  long  time  the  attention  of  both 
townsmen  and  strangers.     A  volume  of  the  Old  Statisti- 
cal Account  of  Scotland,  belonging  in  his  time  to  the 
public  library  of  which  he  was  a  member,  was  transferred 
to  the  mechanics'  institute,  and  bears  an  original  verse 
of  his  in  his  own  bold  handwriting.     Another  volume 
there,  a  copy  of  De  Lolme  on  the  British  Constitution, 
presented  by  him  to  the  library,  contains  an  autograph 
of  his  which  was  interpreted  at  the  time  to  indicate 
seditious  sentiments.     The  Globe  Tavern  which  he  used 
to  frequent,  and  on  a  window  of  which  he  inscribed  the 
quadrain  in  praise  of  '  Lovely  Polly  Stewart '  and  a  new 
version  of  '  Coming  through  the  Rye,'  retains  an  old- 
fashioned  chair  on  which  he  was  wont  to  sit ;  and  the 
mere  building,  situated  in  a  narrow  gloomy  close  ofl"  High 
Street,  is  hardly  less  replete  with  memories  of  him  than 
is  the  house  in  which  he  lived  and  died.    To  the  Trades' 
Hall,  akeady  noticed,  his  coffined  corpse  was  removed 
on  the  eve  of  his  public  funeral.      The  matrix  of  the 
cast  of  his  skull,  taken  at  the  interment  of  his  widow 
in  1834,  continued  in  the  possession  of  the  townsman 
who  took  it,  and  probably  is  still  in  safe  keeping  in 
the  town.     His  remains  were  originally  buried  in  the  N 
comer  of  St  IMichael's  chm-chyard,  with  no  other  monu- 
ment than  a  simple  slab  of  freestone  *  erected  by  his 
widow ;  but,  in  1815,  were  transferred  to  a  vault  in  a  more 
appropriate  part  on  the  SE  border,  and  honoured  with  a 
mausoleum,  erected  by  subscription  of  fifty  guineas  from 
the  Prince  Regent  and  of  various  sums  from  a  multitude 
of  admirers.     The  mausoleum,  in  the  form  of  a  Grecian 
temple,  after  a  design  by  Thomas  F.  Hunt,  of  London, 
cost  originally  £1450,  and  contains  a  mural  sculpture  by 
Turnerelli,  representing  the  Poetic  Genius  of  Scotland 
throwing  her  mantle  over  Burns,  in  his  rustic  dress,  at 
the  plough.     It  is  now  glazed  in  the  inten-als  between 
its  pillars,  to  protect  the  sculptiire  from  erosion  by  the 
weather ;  and,  besides  Bums's  own  remains,  covers  those 
of  his  widow  and  their  five  sons.     The  late  'William 
Ewart,  I\I.P.,  placed  a  bust  of  the  poet  in  a  niche  of  the 
front  wall  of  the  Industrial  School ;  and  on  6  April  1882 
Lord  Rosebery  unveiled  Mrs  D.  0.  Hill's  fine  marble 
*  So  says  Mr  M'Dowall,  but,  accordinjj  to  Dorothy  Wordsworth, 
there  was  '  no  stone  to  mark  the  spot '  when,  on  IS  Aug.  1803,  with 
Coleridfre  and  her  brother  William,  she  stood  beside  tlie  'untimely 
grave  of  Burns.'    Can  it  be  that  here  too  they  were  nnsinfurmed, 
as  in  the  case  of  Rob  Roy's  grave,  noticed  under  Bau^iiiidijbr? 

393 


DUMFRIES 

sutiie,  on  the  open  space  in  front  of  Greyfriars  Church. 
Nearly  10  feet  high,  it  is  raised  5  feet  from  the  ground 
on  a  pedestal  of  grey  Dalbeattie  granite  ;  and  represents 
Bui-ns,  resting  on  an  old  tree  root,  in  the  act  of  produc- 
ing one  of  his  deathless  lyrics.  A  collie  snuggles  to  his 
right  foot,  and  near  by  lie  bonnet,  song-book,  and  shep- 
herd's pipe.  See  William  M'Dowall's  Burns  in  Dum- 
frksshirc  (Edinb.  1S70). 

Dumfries  has  a  head  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  departments, 
offices  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  the  British  Linen  Co. , 
and  the  Clydesdale,  Commercial,  National,  Royal,  and 
Union  Banks,  and  offices  or  agencies  of  30  insurance  com- 
panies. Three  newspapers  are  published — the  Liberal 
and  Independent  Dumfries  Courier  (1809)  on  Tuesday, 
the  Conservative  Dumfriesshire  and  Galloivay  Herald 
(1835)  on  Wednesday  and  Saturday,  and  the  Liberal 
Dumfries  and  Galloway  Standard  (1843)  also  on  Wed- 
nesday and  Saturday.  A  weekly  market  of  much 
importance  is  held  every  AVcdnesday  for  the  sale  of 
sheeji,  cattle,  pigs,  etc.  ;  and  on  the  same  day,  in  a 
covered  building  in  Loreburn  Street,  a  sale  of  butter  and 
eggs  is  held.  Another  market  of  secondary  importance 
is  also  held  on  Saturday.  Horse  fairs  are  held  on  a 
Wednesday  of  February,  either  the  second  day  of  that 
month  0.  s.  or  the  Wednesday  after  it,  on  the  Wednes- 
day before  26  May,  on  the  AVednesday  after  17  June  o.  s., 
on  either  25  Sept.  or  the  AVednesday  after,  and  on  the 
AVednesday  before  22  Nov.  ;  pork  fairs  are  held  on  every 
AVednesday  of  January,  February,  March,  November, 
and  December  ;  and  eight  hiring  fairs  are  held  in  the 
course  of  the  year.  A  sale  of  cattle  on  the  Sands,  at 
the  AVednesday  weekly  market,  dates  from  1659  ;  was 
preceded,  from  a  time  long  before  the  Union,  by  a  weekly 
sale  on  Monday  ;  drew  always  large  supplies  from  Dum- 
friesshire and  Galloway  for  transmission  into  England  ; 
rose  progressively  to  such  importance  that,  dming  a 
considerable  course  of  years,  so  many  as  about  20,000 
head  of  cattle  were  annually  sold  on  the  Sands  to  English 
purchasers  ;  suffered  a  severe  check,  partly  by  the  open- 
ing of  the  railways,  partly  by  weekly  auction  of  live 
stock,  partly  by  other  causes  ;  and  became  so  reduced 
toward  1865,  that  the  number  of  cattle  shown  in  that 
year  was  only  9605.  The  number  sent  from  the  station, 
in  1859,  was  13,975,  but  in  1866  was  only  3470.  The 
sale  of  sheep,  at  the  weekly  markets,  seems  not  to  have 
commenced  till  about  the  end  of  last  century  ;  but  it 
increased  rapidly  in  result  of  the  turnip  husbandry ; 
and  it  amounted,  during  the  five  years  ending  in  1866, 
to  the  annual  average  of  about  28, 000  sheep  ;  yet,  like 
the  Sands  or  market  sale  of  cattle,  it  was  much  curtailed 
by  auction  sales  and  private  transfer.  The  number 
of  sheep  sent  from  the  station,  chiefly  to  England,  in 
1859,  was  43,932;  in  1865,  47,105;  "in  1881,  60,000. 
The  total  sale  of  cattle  and  sheep  on  the  Sands,  and  in 
the  auction  marts,  in  1866,  was  9828  cattle  and  47,239 
sheep.  The  sale  of  pork,  in  the  weekly  market  on  the 
Sands,  for  many  years  prior  to  1832,  amounted  usually 
to  upwards  of  700  carcases  in  one  day,  in  the  busiest 
part  of  the  year,  often  to  many  more,  but  it  also  re- 
ceived a  severe  check  by  the  opening  of  the  railways 
and  by  other  causes.  The  number  of  carcases  shown  on 
the  Sands  in  all  1859,  was  only  13,550  ;  in  1867, 10,235. 
The  stock  sold  in  the  market  or  at  auction  in  1881  were, 
cattle  26,415,  sheep  82,327,  calves  1352,  pigs  1086.  The 
number  of  horses  sold  is  also  very  large. 

The  port  of  Dumfries  is  strictly  the  river  Nith,  in  its 
run  of  14  J  miles  to  the  channel  of  the  Solway,  but  com- 
prises besides  all  the  Scottish  side  of  the  Firth,  from 
Sarkfoot  to  Kirkandrews  Bay ;  and  includes,  as  creeks  or 
sub-ports,  Annan,  Barlochan,  and  Kirkcudbright.  Its 
harbourage  nearly  everywhere  is  tidal,  with  great  dis- 
advantage from  the  peculiar  '  bore '  of  the  Solway — a 
sudden  rapid  breast  of  water  of  short  duration,  followed 
by  hours  of  total  recess,  leaving  nothing  but  shallow 
fresh-water  streams  across  great  breadths  of  foreshore. 
At  Dumfries  itself  there  is  no  better  accommodation 
than  a  series  of  quays,  one  at  Dumfries  dock,  .and  three 
at  intervals  down  to  a  distance  of  5  miles.  The  naviga- 
894 


DUMFRIES 

tion  of  the  Nith  was  always  difficult ;  but,  in  years  prior 
to  1834,  at  a  cost  of  £18,930,  it  underwent  material 
improvement.  A  rock  which  obstructed  the  channel 
at  Glencaple,  5  miles  below  the  toAvn,  was  cut  away  ; 
other  obstacles  in  the  river's  bed  were  removed  ;  the 
landing-places  at  the  river's  mouth,  and  the  lighthouse 
on  Southerness  flanking  the  mouth,  were  put  in  better 
condition  ;  a  quay  at  Glencaple,  and  two  quays  at  Kel- 
ton,  and  near  Castledyke,  between  Glencaple  and  the 
town,  were  constructed.  The  quay  at  the  town  itself 
was  renovated  and  extended,  and  embankments  and 
other  works,  to  counteract  the  devastating  eff"ect  of  the 
tide's  impetuous  rush  up  the  river,  were  formed.  The 
town's  harbour,  in  consequence,  became  safer  for  small 
vessels,  accessible  to  larger  vessels  than  before,  and  ac- 
cessible also  to  coasting  steamers  ;  yet,  in  result  of  suc- 
cessively the  opening  of  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western 
railway  in  1850,  the  opening  of  the  Castle-Douglas  and 
Dumfries  railway  in  1859,  the  opening  of  the  Lockerbie 
and  Dumfries  railway  in  1863,  the  opening  of  the  Sil- 
loth  railway  and  wet-dock  in  1864,  and  the  opening  of 
the  Solway  Junction  railway  in  1869,  it  has  lost  an 
amount  of  traffic  more  than  equal  to  all  that  it  pre- 
viously gained.  The  revenue  from  the  harbour,  in  1831, 
was  a  little  short  of  £1100  ;  in  1844,  £1212  ;  in  1864, 
£555  ;  in  1867,  £474  ;  in  1881,  £332,  7s.  9d.  The 
tonnage  belonging  to  the  port  and  sub-ports,  which 
averaged  8292  during  1840-44,  had  risen  to  15,286  in 
1860,  but  sank  to  11,682  in  1866,  to  7764  in  1873,  and 
to  3971  on  31  Dec.  1881.  In  1881,  the  tonnage  of  ships 
inwards  was  32,469;  outwards,  32,869.  The  principal 
imports  are  timber,  slate,  iron,  coal,  wine,  hemp,  and 
tallow  ;  and  the  principal  exports  are  wheat,  barley, 
oats,  potatoes,  wool,  and  sandstone.  The  customs,  which 
averaged  £8576  a  year  during  1840-44,  and  £11,540 
during  1845-49,  amounted  to  £6524  in  1864,  to  £4986 
in  1869,  to  £4583  in  1874,  and  (inclusive  of  duty  on 
British  spirits)  to  £7500  in  1881. 

The  productive  industry  of  Dumfries,  till  a  recent 
period,  went  little  beyond  ordinary  local  artisanship, 
but  it  is  now  vigorous  and  flourishing  in  various  im- 
portant departments  of  trade  and  manufacture.  The 
large  number  of  wai-ehouses  and  shops  bears  evidence  to 
a  healthy  amount  of  competition  among  business  people, 
both  for  the  ordinary  retail  trade,  and  also  for  the 
wholesale  supply  of  numerous  county  towns  and  villages. 
There  are  two  important  foundries,  one  very  extensive, 
for  the  construction  and  repair  of  engines,  agricultural 
machines,  implements,  etc.  The  manufacture  of  hosiery 
is  increasing  yearly  in  importance,  and  gives  employ- 
ment to  a  large  number  of  hands  in  several  factories  of 
considerable  size.  Tanning  and  currying,  and  coach- 
building  are  also  important,  and  there  are  many  em- 
ployers of  skilled  labour,  of  high  standing,  in  various 
departments  of  trade.  The  manufacture  of  tweeds  was 
introduced  in  1847,  and  has  gone  on  since  then  steadily 
increasing.  There  are  several  factories  of  moderate 
size,  and  three  of  the  largest  size,  the  latter  now  (1882) 
owned  by  one  firm  (Messrs  AA^'alter  Scott  &  Sons),  and 
employing  a  large  number  of  hands. 

Constituted  a  royal  burgh  by  David  I.  (1124-53),  and 
divided  into  four  wards,  Dumfries  is  governed  by  a  pro- 
vost, 3  bailies,  a  dean  of 
guild,  a  treasurer,  and 
22  other  councillors. 
The  General  Police  and 
Improvement  Act  of 
Scotland  was  adopted 
prior  to  1871  ;  and  the 
magistrates  and  town 
councillors  act  as  com- 
missioners of  police. 
The  income  of  the  police 
commissioners  arises 
chiefly  from  rates,  and 
in  1880-81  amounted  to 
£4619,  19s.  7d.  The 
assize  or  justiciary  court 
is  held  twice  a  year.     The  shcrifl"  court  for  the  county  is 


Seal  of  Dumfrioi 


DUMFRIES 


DUMFRIES 


held  every  Tuesday  and  Friday  during  session ;  the  sheriff 
small  debt  court,  and  the  debts  recovery  act  court,  every 
Tuesday  in  time  of  session,  and  on  the  same  days  that 
ordinary  courts  are  held  in  vacation.  A  court  of  county 
justices  is  held  in  Dumfries  every  Monday.  The  water 
and  gas  works  of  the  burgh  are  public  propertj',  and  are 
well  managed,  the  rates  to  consumers  steailily  diminish- 
ing. With  Annan,  Kirkcudbright,  Lochmaben,  and 
Sanquhar,  Dumfries  I'eturns  one  member  to  parliament 
(always  a  Liberal  since  1837) ;  in  1SS2  its  parliamentary 
constituency  numbered  1858,  its  municipal  1282. 
Corporation  revenue  (1867)  £1599,  (1875)  £2360,  (1881) 
£2204.  Valuation  (1861)  £30,028,  (1870)  £42,860, 
(1882)  £57,713,  of  which  £4344  was  in  railways.  Pop. 
of  royal  burgh  (1841)  10,069,  (1851)  11,107,  (1861) 
12,313,  (1871)  13,710,  (1881)  15,759;  of  parliamentary 
burgh  (1851)  13,166,  (1861)  14,023,  (1871)  15,435, 
(1881)  17,090,  of  whom  9283  were  females.  Houses 
in  parliamentary  burgh  (1881)  3642  inhabited,  174 
vacant,  17  building. 

The  name  Dumfries  was  anciently  written  Dunfres, 
and  is  supposed  to  have  been  derived  from  the  Gaelic 
words  dun  and  phreas,  signifying  'a  mound  covered 
with  copse  wood,'  or  'a  hill-fort  among  shrubs.'  A 
slight  rising-gi'ound  on  the  area  now  occupied  by  Grey- 
friars  Church  was  the  site  of  an  ancient  fort,  afterwards 
reconstructed  into  a  sti-ong  castle  ;  is  presumed  to  have 
been  clothed  with  copse  or  natural  shrubs  ;  and  appears 
to  have  given  origin  to  the  name.  The  burgh's  armorial 
bearing  was  anciently  a  chevron  and  three  fleur-de-lis, 
but  came  to  be  a  winged  figure  of  St  Michael,  ti'ampling 
on  a  dragon  and  holding  a  pastoral  staff.  The  motto 
is,  'A'loreburn' — a  word  that,  during  centuries  of 
sfruggle  against  invaders,  was  used  as  a  war-cry  to 
muster  the  townsmen.  The  side  toward  the  English 
border  being  that  whence  invasion  usually  came,  a  place 
of  rendezvous  was  appointed  there  on  the  banks  of  a  rill 
called  the  Lower  Burn,  nearly  in  the  line  of  the  present 
Loreburn  Street ;  and  when  the  townsmen  were  sum- 
moned to  the  gathering,  the  cry  was  raised,  '  All  at  the 
Lower  Bum, ' — a  phrase  that  passed  by  elision  into  the 
word  'A'loreburn.'  A  village,  which  ere  the  close  of 
the  10th  century  had  sprung  up  under  the  shelter  of 
the  fort  on  the  copse-covered  mound,  grew  gradually 
into  a  town,  and  was  the  seat  of  the  judges  of  Galloway 
in  the  reign  of  William  the  Lyon,  who  died,  in  1214,  about 
which  period  or  a  little  later  it  seems  to  have  become  a 
centre  of  considerable  traffic.  Streets  on  the  line  of  the 
present  Friars'  Vennel  and  of  the  northern  part  of  High 
Street,  with  smaller  thoroughfares  toward  Townhead 
and  Loreburn  Street,  appear  to  have  been  its  oldest 
portions  ;  and  are  supposed  to  have  had,  about  the 
middle  of  the  13th  century,  nearly  2000  inhabitants. 
The  erection  of  the  old  bridge  before  the  middle  of  the 
13th  century,  together  with  the  high  character  which 
that  structure  originally  possessed,  indicates  distinctly 
both  the  importance  then  attained  by  the  town  and 
the  line  in  which  its  chief  riverward  thoroughfare 
ran ;  and  another  structure,  erected  by  the  same 
bountiful  lady  who  erected  the  bridge,  also  indicates  the 
position  of  the  nucleus  around  which  the  town  lay. 
This  was  a  Minorite  or  Greyfriars'  monastery,  situated 
near  the  head  of  Friars'  Vennel,  where  now  the  Burns 
Statue  stands  ;  and,  small  though  it  was,  as  compared 
with  many  abbeys,  it  seems  to  have  been  a  goodly 
First  Pointed  edifice,  comprising  an  aisled  church,  a 
range  of  cloisters,  a  refectory,  and  a  dormitory.  In 
1286  Robert  Bruce  the  Competitor  and  the  Earl  of 
Carrick,  his  son,  mth  banner  displayed  assaulted  and 
captured  the  castle  of  Dumfries,  a  royal  fortress  of  the 
child-queen  Margaret,  the  Maid  of  Norway  ;  and  in 
the  summer  of  1300  King  Edward  I.,  on  his  way  to  the 
siege  of  Caerlaverock,  seized  and  garrisoned  this  castle, 
and  added  the  high  square  keeji,  part  of  which  re- 
mained standing  till  1719.  In  the  beginning  of  1306 
the  famous  Robert  Bruce  was  in  London,  called  thither 
as  King  Edward's  counsellor,  when  a  warning  of  peril 
was  sent  him  by  the  Duke  of  Gloucester,  his  friend — 
a  sum  of  money  and  a  pair  of  spurs.     The  hint  was 


enough  ;  that  day  he  started  for  Scotland,  his  horse  shod 

backwards,  that  the  hoof-prints  might  throw  pursuers 
off  the  track.  On  February  the  4th  he  halted  at  Dum- 
fries, where  the  English  justiciars  were  sitting  in  assize 
— John  Comyn  of  Badenoch,  surnamed  the  Red,  among 
the  throng  of  barons  in  attendance.  Him  Bruce  en- 
countered in  the  church  of  the  Minorites,  and,  falling 
into  discourse,  made  the  proposal  to  him  :  '  Take  you 
my  lands,  and  help  me  to  the  throne  ;  or  else  let  me 
take  yours,  and  I  will  uphold  your  claim.'  Comyn 
refused,  with  talk  of  allegiance  to  Edward,  and  their 
words  waxed  hotter  and  hotter,  till,  drawing  his  dagger, 
Bruce  struck  a  deadly  blow,  then  hurried  to  his  friends, 
who  asketl  if  aught  were  amiss.  '  I  must  be  off, '  was  the 
answer,  'for  I  doubt  I  have  .slain  the  Red  Comyn.' 
'Doubt ! '  cried  Kirkpatrick  of  Closeburn,  '  I  mak  sikar ;' 
and,  with  Sir  John  de  Lindsay,  rushing  into  the  church, 
despatched  the  wounded  renegade  outright.  A  frenzy 
seized  them  ;  they  carried  the  castle  by  assault ;  and 
thus  was  rekindled  the  War  of  Independence.  One 
episode  therein  was  that,  in  this  same  year  of  1306,  Sir 
Christopher  Seton,  Bruce's  brother-in-law,  was  hanged 
by  the  English  at  Dumfries,  on  the  Crystal  Mount, 
where  his  widow  afterwards  founded  a  chapel  in  honour 
of  the  Holy  Rood. 

The  town  was  burned  by  the  English  prior  to  1448  ; 
suffered  devastation  by  them  at  other  periods  ;  and,  in 
1469,  obtained  from  the  Crown  all  the  houses,  gardens, 
revenues,  and  other  property  which  had  belonged  to  the 
Grey  Friars.  It  was  burned  again  by  the  English  in  1536, 
and  was  then  revenged  by  Lord  Maxwell.  That  noble- 
man, with  a  small  body  of  retainers,  made  an  incursion 
into  England,  and  reduced  Penrith  to  ashes  ;  and  either 
he  or  some  member  of  his  family,  mainly  with  materials 
from  the  Greyfriars'  monastery,  strongly  reconstructed 
Dumfries  Castle.  Queen  Mary,  in  October  1565,  when 
the  town,  was  held  by  Murray  and  other  disaffected  nobles, 
favourers  of  the  Reformation,  marched  against  it  with 
an  army  of  18,000  men,  at  whose  approach  the  leaders 
of  the  opposition  retreated  over  the  Border.  The  castle 
was  again  taken  and  the  town  sacked,  in  1570,  by  the 
English  imder  Lord  Scrope  and  the  Earl  of  Essex.  The 
townsmen,  in  1583,  erected  a  bartizaned,  two-storied 
stronghold,  called  the  New  Wark,  to  serve  both  as  a 
fortress  to  resist  invasion  and  as  a  retreat  under  dis- 
comfiture ;  and,  either  about  the  same  time  or  at  an 
earlier  period,  they  constructed  likewise,  between  the 
town  and  Lochar  Moss,  a  rude  fortification  or  extended 
rampart,  called  the  Warder's  Dike.  But  all  vestiges  of 
these  works,  of  the  castle,  and  of  the  monastery  are  now 
extinct. 

In  1617  James  VI.  spent  two  days  at  Dumfries  in 
royal  state,  and  was  sumptuously  entertained  at  a  pub- 
lic banquet.  The  to^vn  shared  largely  in  the  disasters 
that  overspread  Scotland  under  Charles  I.,  and  still 
more  largely  in  those  of  the  dark  reign  of  Charles  II., 
when,  in  November  1666,  a  fortnight  before  the  battle 
of  RuUion  Green,  fifty  mounted  Covenanters  and  a  larger 
party  of  peasants  on  foot  here  seized  Sir  James  Turner, 
and,  with  him,  a  considerable  sum  of  money.  The 
Cameronians,  or  those  of  the  Covenanters  who  resisted 
the  settlement  at  the  Revolution,  were  comparatively 
numerous  in  the  surrounding  district ;  and,  on  20  Nov. 
1706,  about  200  of  them  rode  into  the  town,  issued 
a  manifesto  against  the  impending  union  of  Scotland  and 
England,  and  burned  the  articles  of  union  at  the  cross, 
but  did  not  succeed  in  precipitating  the  town  into  any  seri- 
ous disaster.  In  October  1715  word  was  brought  to  the 
magistrates  that  the  Jacobite  gentry  of  the  neighbour- 
hood had  formed  a  design  to  surprise  the  town  ;  and,  it 
being  the  sacramental  fast-day,  and  the  provincial  synod 
being  then  in  session,  the  clergy  mustered  their  fencible 
parishioners,  so  that  'a  crowd  of  stout  Whigs  flocked  in 
from  tlie  surrounding  districts  and  villages,  with  their 
broad  bonnets  and  grey  hose,  some  of  them  mounted  on 
their  plough-horses,  others  on  foot.'  That  vcrv  evening 
they  were  joined  by  a  strange  ally,  no  other  tnan  Simon 
Eraser,  the  infamous  Lord  Lovat,  who,  with  five  fol- 
lowers, all  armed  to  the  teeth,  rode  up  to  the  head  inn, 

395 


DUMFRIES 

e)i  route  from  London  to  the  North.  Hill  Burton  de- 
scribes the  suspicions  aroused  by  the  presence  of  this 
large,  square-built,  peculiar-looking  man  ;  how,  having 
shown  his  credentials,  he  presently  helped  to  bring 
in  the  Jlarquis  of  Annandale,  beset  by  the  Jacobites 
under  Viscount  Kenmure  ;  and  how  their  courteous  and 
partly  convivial  meeting  was  interrupted  by  a  rumour 
of  attack,  a  body  of  horse  having  ridden  up  close  to 
the  town.*  A  Jiarty  of  the  townspeople,  during  the 
insurrection  of  1745,  cut  off  at  Lockerbie  a  detach- 
ment of  the  Highlanders'  baggage ;  and,  in  conse- 
quence, drew  upon  Dumfries  a  severer  treatment  from 
Prince  Charles  Eilward  than  was  inflicted  on  any  other 
to^vn  of  its  size.  Prince  Charles,  on  his  retui'n  from 
England,  let  loose  his  mountaineers  to  live  at  free 
quarters  in  Dumfries ;  and  he  levied  the  excise  of  the 
town,  and  demanded  from  its  authorities  a  contribution 
of  £2000  and  of  1000  pairs  of  shoes  ;  but,  an  alarm  having 
reached  him  that  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  had  mastered 
the  garrison  left  at  Carlisle  and  was  marching  rapidly  on 
Dutafries,  he  hastily  broke  away  northward,  accepting  for 
the  present  £1100  for  his  required  exaction,  and  taking 
hostages  for  the  payment  of  the  remainder.  The  town 
suffered  loss  to  the  amount  of  about  £4000  by  his  visit, 
besides  the  damage  caused  by  the  plundering  of  his  troops; 
but,  in  acknowledgment  of  its  loyalty  to  the  Crown,  and 
as  part  compensation  for  its  loss,  it  afterwards  got  £2800 
from  the  forfeited  estate  of  Lord  Elcho.  Later  events 
have  mainly  been  either  commercial,  political,  or  social ; 
and,  with  the  exception  of  a  dire  visitation  of  cholera  (15 
Sept.  to  27  Nov.  1832),  by  which  nearly  500  perished, 
they  have  left  no  considei'able  mark  on  its  annals.  It 
may,  however,  be  noticed  that  the  Highland  and  Agri- 
cultural Society  has  held  its  meeting  here  in  1830,  1837, 
1845,  1860,  1870,  and  1878.  The  town,  on  the  whole 
since  1746,  has  plenteously  participated  in  the  benign 
effects  of  peace  and  enlightenment ;  and,  though  mov- 
ing more  slowly  than  some  other  towns  in  the  course  of 
aggrandisement,  it  has  been  excelled  by  none  in  the 
graceftilness  of  its  progress,  and  in  the  steadiness  and 
substantiality  of  its  improvement. 

The  title  Earl  of  Dumfries,  in  the  peerage  of  Scot- 
land, conferred  in  1633  on  the  seventh  Baron  Crichton 
of  Sanquhar,  passed  in  1694  to  an  heiress  who  man-ied 
the  second  son  of  the  first  Earl  of  Stair.  Her  eldest 
son,  William,  who  succeeded  her  in  1742  as  fourth  Earl 
of  Dimifries  and  his  brother  James  in  1760  as  fomth 
Earl  of  Stair,  died  mtliout  issue  in  1768,  when  the 
former  title  devolved  on  his  nephew,  Patrick  Mac- 
dowall  of  Feugh  (1726-1803),  whose  daughter  married 
the  eldest  son  of  the  first  Marquis  of  Bute  ;  and  the 
title  now  is  borne  by  her  great-grandson,  John  (b.  1881), 
son  and  heir  of  the  present  Marquis  of  Bute.  On  the 
towii's  roll  of  fame  are  the  following  eminent  natives  or 
residents,  the  former  distinguished  by  an  asterisk  : — 
The  Rev.  "William  Veitch,  who  was  minister  of  Dumfries 
during  the  conflict  between  Presbji;erianism  and  E])is- 
copacy,  and  whose  biography  was  Avritten  by  the  Rev. 
Dr  M'Crie  ;  the  Rev.  Dr  Henry  Duncan  of  Ruthwell 
(1774-1846),  author  of  the  Philosophy  of  the  Seasons, 
who  started  the  Courier,  and  founded  here  the  earliest 
of  all  savings'  banks,  and  a  statue  of  whom  is  in  front 
of  the  Savings'  Bank  building ;  *  Dr  Benjamin  Bell 
(1749-1806),  the  eminent  surgeon;  Sir  Andrew  Halliday 
(1783-1839),  a  famous  physician,  who  spent  his  latter 
years  and  died  in  Dumfries ;  *  Sir  John  Richardson 
(1787-1865),  the  surgeon  and  naturalist  of  Sir  John 
Franklin's  overland  Polar  expedition  ;  *Sir  James  An- 
derson (b.  1824),  the  telegraph  manager;  *Gen.  William 
M'Murdo,  C.B.  (b.  1819),  the  son-in-law  and  favourite 
officer  of  Sir  Charles  Najiier,  the  hero  of  Scinde  ;  John 
M'Diarmid  (1790-1852),  editor  of  the  Scrap  Book,  author 
of  Sketches  from  Nature  and  a  Life  of  Cowpcr,  and  for  35 
years  the  talented  conductor  of  the  Dumfries  Courier ; 
Thomas  Aird  (1802-76),  the  well-known  poet,  and  editor 
of  the  Dumfriesshire  Herald  from  1835  to  1863 ;  William 

*  It  is  noteworthy  that  tlie  first  book  printed  nt  Dumfries  was 
Peter  Rae's  Ilhtonj  of  Vie  Rebellion  in  Scotland,  in  Dumfries, 
Galloway,  etc.  (1718). 
396 


DUMFRIES 

M'Dowall  (b.  1815),  author  of  the  Man  of  (he  Woods  and 
of  the  Eistory  of  Dumfries,  and  editor  of  the  Dumfries 
Standard  from  1846;  *  James  Hannay  (1827-73),  author 
of  Eustace  Conyers,  Singleton  Fontcnoy,  and  other  works 
of  fiction;  *Dr  Robert  Carruthers  (1799-1878),  of  Inver- 
ness, but  long  connected  with  Dumfries,  the  author  of  a 
Life  of  Pope,  the  Highland  Note-Book,  the  Encyclopccdia 
of  English  Literature,  etc.,  and  of  ten  Dumfries  Por- 
traits, which  appeared  in  the  Dumfriesshire  Monthly 
Magazine,  begun  in  1821  ;  William  Bennet,  editor  of 
the  three  volumes  of  the  Dumfries  Monthly  Magazine, 
begun  in  1825 ;  Allan  Cunningham,  John  Mayne, 
Robert  Anderson,  Joseph  Train,  Robert  Malcolmson, 
Dr  Broivne,  and  Dr  John  Gibson,  who  contrilnited 
largely  to  these  two  periodicals ;  the  Rev.  William 
Dunbar,  editor  of  the  Nifhsdale  Minstrel,  a  volume  of 
original  poetry  published  in  1815  ;  William  Paterson 
(1658-1719),  the  founder  of  the  Bank  of  England,  and 
the  projector  of  the  Darien  Expedition  ;  Patrick  IMiller 
of  Dalswinton  (1731-1815),  the  distinguished  inventor 
and  agriculturist;  *Robert  Thorburn,  A.R.A.  (b.  1818), 
the  famous  miniature  painter  ;  Kennedy,  the  landscape 
painter;  Dunbar  and  Currie,  the  sculptors;  *  James 
Pagan  (1811-70),  journalist ;  *  Joseph  Irving  (b.  1830), 
historian  and  annalist;  Thomas  Carlyle  (1795-1881),  a 
Svriter  of  books;'  *John  Mayne  (1759-1846),  minor 
poet  and  journalist ;  and  not  a  few  besides. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  of  George- 
town, Gasstown,  and  Locharbriggs,  with  part  of  the 
village  of  Kelton,  is  bounded  NAV  by  Holj^wood  and 
Kirkmahoe,  NE  by  Tinwald,  E  by  Torthorwald,  S  by 
Caerlaverock,  and  AV  by  Troqueer  and  Terregles  in  Kirk- 
cudbrightshire. Its  greatest  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  6f 
miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth  is  3J  miles  ;  and  its  area  is 
10,200  acres,  of  which  69^  are  foreshore  and  98^  water. 
The  NiTH  winds  7  miles  south-by-eastward  along  all 
the  boundary  with  Holj^wood  and  Kirkcudbrightshire, 
and  sluggish  Lochaii  Water  7i  south-south-eastward 
along  that  with  Tinwald  and  Torthorwald.  Near  Loch- 
thorn,  2h  miles  NNE  of  the  town,  is  a  little  lake  (1^  x  f 
furl.),  which,  in  time  of  hard  frost,  is  much  frequented 
by  skaters  and  curlers.  A  mineral  spring,  called 
Crichton's  AVell,  occurs  in  Lochar  Moss ;  another,  a 
strong  chalybeate,  on  Fountainbleau  farm.  The  pictur- 
esque low  height  of  Clumpton  rises  2  miles  NE  of  the 
town  ;  and  an  undulating  low  eminence,  as  formerly 
noticed,  forms  chief  part  of  the  site  of  the  town,  south- 
ward of  which  another  low  ridge  of  hills  runs  nearly 
parallel  to  the  Nith,  at  about  lialf  a  mile's  distance, 
into  Caerlaverock ;  and  rises  at  Trohoughton  to  312  feet. 
The  rest  of  the  surface  is  nearly  a  dead  level,  sink- 
ing to  40,  and  rarely  exceeding  100,  feet.  The  western 
face  of  the  ridge,  overlooking  the  Nith,  is  gently  sloping, 
and  highly  embellished ;  but  the  eastern  breaks  down 
in  abrupt  declivities,  presents  a  bold  front  and  a  com- 
manding outline,  and  forms,  about  1^  mile  from  the 
town,  two  precipitous  ledges,  called  the  Maiden  Bower 
Craigs,  one  of  them  containing  a  remarkable  cavity, 
said  to  have  been  used  by  those  mythic  beings,  the 
Druids,  as  a  sort  of  'St  Wilfrid's  needle,'  or  ordeal  of 
chastity.  A  broad  belt  of  Lochar  Moss,  along  the 
eastern  border,  continued  all  sheer  morass  down  into 
the  i)resent  century,  but  now  is  extensively  reclaimed, 
and  partly  clothed  with  verdure  or  Mith  wood.  Permian 
sandstone  is  the  prevailing  rock,  and  has  been  largely 
quarried.  The  soil,  in  the  SW,  is  a  pretty  strong  clay  ; 
in  the  flat  lands  by  the  Nith,  is  mostly  clay  incumbent 
on  gravel ;  in  the  N  and  NK,  is  a  light  reddish  sandy 
earth  resting  on  sandstone ;  and  in  the  E,  is  either  native 
moss,  reclaimed  moss,  or  humus.  Nearly  four-fifths  of  the 
entire  area  are  rctjularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  some 
350  acres  are  under  wood,  and  nearly  all  the  rest  of  the 
land  is  capable  of  remunerative  reclamation  or  culture. 
An  ancient  castle  of  the  Comyns  stood  ^  mile  SSE  of 
the  town,  on  a  spot  overlooking  a  beautiful  bend  of  the 
Nith,  and  still  called  Castledykes.  A  meadow  near  it 
bears  the  name  of  Kingholm,  and  may  have  got  that 
name  either  by  corruption  of  Comyn's  holm  or  in  honour 
of  Robert  Uruce.      Another   meadow,  by  the   riverside 


DUMFRIES  HOUSE 

northward  of  the  town,  is  called  the  Nunholm,  from  its 
lying  opposite  the  ancient  Benedictine  nunnery  of 
Lincluden.  This  parish  is  the  seat  of  both  a  pres- 
bytery and  a  synod,  and  it  is  divided  ecclesiasti- 
cally into  the  three  parishes  of  St  ilichael,  Greyfriars, 
and"  St  Mary,  the  value  of  the  two  first  livings  being 
£436  and  £336.  Valuation,  exclusive  of  burgh,  (1882) 
£20,877,  18s.  Id.  Pop.  of  entire  parish  (1801)  7288, 
(1831)  11,606,  (1861)  13,523,  (1871)  14,841,  (1881) 
16,839.— (9/-fZ.  Sur.,  shs.  10,  9,  1864-63. 

The  presbytery  of  Dumfries  comprises  the  old  par- 
ishes of  Caeriaverock,  Colvend,  Dumfries-St  Michael, 
Dunifries-Gre3rfriars,  Dunscore,  Holywood,  Kirkbean, 
Kirkgunzeon,  Kirkmahoe,  Kirkpatrick-Durham,  Kirk- 
patrick-Irongray,  Lochrutton,  Newabbey,  Terregles, 
Tinwald,  Torthorwald,  Troqueer,  and  Urr,  and  the 
quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Dumfries-St  Marv,  Dalbeattie, 
and  MaxweUtown.  Pop.  (1871)  38,967,  (1881)  41,099, 
of  whom  7072  were  communicants  of  the  Church  of 
Scotland  in  1878. — The  Free  Church  also  has  a  presby- 
tery of  Dumfries,  with  3  churches  in  Dumfries,  2  at 
Dunscore,  and  12  at  Corsock,  Dalbeattie,  Dalton,  Glen- 
caple,  Hightae,  Irongray,  Kirkbean,  Kirkmahoe,  Kirk- 
patrick-Durham, Maxwelltown,  Newabbey,  and  Ruth- 
well,  which  17  had  together  3216  members  in  1881. — 
The  tr.  P.  Synod  likewise  has  a  presbytery  of  Dumfries, 
with  3  churches  in  Dumfries,  2  in  Sanquhar,  and  10 
at  Burnhead,  Castle-Douglas,  Dalbeattie,  Dairy,  Dun- 
score, Lochmaben,  Mainsriddle,  Moniaive,  Thomhill, 
and  Urr,  which  together  had  2814  members  in  1880. 

The  synod  of  Dumfries  comprises  the  presbyteries 
of  Dumfries,  Lochmaben,  Langholm,  Annan,  and  Pen- 
pont.  Pop.  (1871)  94,023,  (1881)  96,018,  of  whom 
17,897  were  communicants  of  the  Church  of  Scotland 
in  1878. — The  Free  Church  also  has  a  synod  of  Dum- 
fries, comprising  presbyteries  of  Dumfries,  Lockerbie, 
and  Penpont,  and  superintending  thirty-four  congrega- 
tions, which  together  had  7256  members  in  1881. 

See  John  M'Diarmid's  Picture  of  Dumfries  and.  its 
Environs  (Edinb.  1832)  ;  William  WDov;&\\'s  History  of 
the  Burgh  of  Dumfries ;  with  Notices  of  Nithsda.le, 
Awiiandale,  and  the  Western  Border  (Edinb.  1867  ;  2d 
ed.  1873)  ;  and  his  MemoriaAs  of  St  Miclw,el's,  the  Old 
Parish  Churchyard,  of  Dumfries  (Edinb.  1876). 

Dumfries  House,  a  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Bute  in 
Old  Cumnock  parish,  Ayrshire,  near  the  left  bank  of 
Lugar  Water,  2  miles  W  of  Cumnock  town,  and  |  mile 
N  of  Dumfries  House  station  on  the  Ayr  and  Cumnock 
section  of  the  Glasgow  and  South-Western,  this  being 
loi  miles  E  by  S  of  Ayr.  Built  about  1757  by  William 
Dalrymple,  fourth  Earl  of  Dumfries,  it  has  a  drawing- 
TDom  htmg  with  very  fine  old  tapestry,  said  to  have  been 
presented  by  Louis  XIV.  to  one  of  the  former  Earls, 
and  stands  amid  finely  wooded  grounds  that  contain  the 
ruins  of  Terringzean  Castle,  and  extend  into  Auchinleck 
parish,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Lugar,  which  here  is 
spanned  by  an  elegant  bridge.  The  ilarquis  holds 
113,734  acres  in  Ayrshire,  valued  at  £25,263  per  annum, 
including  £2506  for  minerals. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  14,  1863. 
Dumfriesshire,  a  coast  and  Border  county  in  the  S  of 
Scotland.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Lanark,  Peebles,  and 
Selkirk  shires  ;  NE  by  Roxburghshire  ;  SE  by  Cumber- 
land ;  S  by  the  Solway  Firth  ;  SW  by  Kirkcudbright- 
shire ;  and  XW  by  Ayrshire.  Its  length,  from  W  to  E, 
varies  between  21  and  46i  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  N 
to  S,  between  13  and  32  miles;  and  its  area  is  1103 
square  miles  or  705,945|  acres,  of  which  20,427  are 
foreshore  and  5301^  water.  Its  outline  is  irregularly 
ellipsoidal,  being  indented  to  the  depth  of  13  miles 
by  the  southern  extremity  of  Lanarkshire,  and  to  the 
depth  of  of  miles  by  Ettrick  Head  in  Selkirkshire. 
Its  boundary  line,  over  all  the  W,  NW,  N,  and  NE, 
to  the  aggregate  extent  of  120  miles,  is  mainly  moun- 
tain watershed  ;  over  most  of  the  march  witli  Cum- 
berland, to  the  aggregate  extent  of  11  miles,  is  variously 
Liddel  Water,  Esk  river,  and  Sark  Water  ;  over  all  the  S, 
to  the  extent  of  21  miles,  is  the  Solway  Firth  ;  along  the 
SW,  to  the  extent  of  15  miles,  is  the  river  Nith  and  Cluden 
Water.    The  summits  on  or  near  the  upland  boundary  line 


DUMFRIESSHIRE 

include  Auchenchain  (1271  feet)  and  Blackcraig  (1961) 
at  the  Kirkcudbrightshire  border ;  Blacklorg  (2231), 
M'Crierick's  Cairn  (1824),  and  Halfmerk  Hill  (1478),  at 
the  Ayrshire  border ;  Mount  Stuart  (1567),  Wanlock 
Dod  (1808),  Lowther  HUl  (2377),  Well  Hill  (1987), 
Wedder  Law  (2185),  and  Queensberry  (2285),  at  the 
Lanarkshire  border  ;  HartfeU  (2651)  and  White  Coomb 
(2695),  at  the  Peeblesshire  border  ;  Herman  Law  (2014), 
Andrewhinney  (2220),  Bodesbeck  Law  (2173),  Capel  Fell 
(2223),  Ettrick  Pen  (2269),  Quickningair  Hill  (1601), 
and  Black  Knowe  (1481),  at  the  Selkirkshire  border ; 
and  Stock  Hill  (1561),  Roan  Fell  (1862),  and  Watch 
Hill  (1642),  at  the  Roxburghshire  border. 

All  the  northern  part  of  the  county  is  prevailingly 
upland.  Mountains  or  high  hills,  with  similar  altitudes 
to  those  on  the  boundary  line,  and  intersected  with  only 
a  small  aggregate  of  glens  or  vales,  occupy  all  the  north- 
western, the  northern,  and  the  north-eastern  border  to 
a  mean  breadth  of  7  or  8  miles  ;  and  spurs  or  prolonga- 
tions of  them  strike  south-eastward,  southward,  and 
south-westward,  to  lengths  of  from  2  or  3  to  7  or  8  miles, 
sometimes  shooting  into  summits  nearly  as  high  as  those 
on  the  borders,  but  generally  sinking  into  low  hills,  and 
separated  from  one  another  by  broadening  vales.  These 
uplands  constitute  a  large  and  prominent  portion  of  the 
Southern  Highlands  of  Scotland  ;  but  they  differ  much, 
in  both  segregation  and  contour,  from  the  upland  masses 
of  most  of  the  Northern  Highlands.  Few  or  none  of 
the  mountains  have  the  ridgy  elongations,  the  rugged, 
craggy  outlines,  or  the  towering  peaked  summits  so 
common  in  Argj'll,  Perth,  Inverness,  and  Ross  shires ; 
but  almost  all  of  them,  whether  on  the  borders  or  in  the 
interior,  lie  adjoined  in  groups,  rise  from  narrow  bases 
over  rounded  shoulders,  and  have  summits  variously 
domical,  conical,  and  tabular  or  flat.  Three  of  the  most 
remarkable  of  the  interior  heights  are  Caimkinna  (1813 
feet)  in  Penpont,  Langholm  Hill  (1161)  in  the  vicinity 
of  Langholm,  and  Brunswark  Hill  (920)  in  the  NE  of 
Hoddam,  all  three  having  forms  of  peculiar  character, 
quite  in  contrast  to  those  prevailing  in  the  Northern 
Highlands.  The  region  southward  of  the  uplands  breaks 
into  three  great  valleys  or  basins,  traversed  by  the  rivers 
Nith,  Annan,  and  Esk  ;  and  is  intersected,  between  the 
Nith  and  the  Annan,  to  the  extent  of  about  7  miles 
southward  from  the  vicinity  of  Amisfield,  by  the  range 
of  the  Tinwald,  Torthorwald,  and  Mouswald  Hills,  with 
curved  outlines,  cultivated  surfaces,  and  altitudes  of 
from  500  to  800  feet  above  sea-level,  and  commanding 
gorgeous,  extensive,  diversified  prospects.  The  basias 
of  the  Annan  and  the  Esk  S  of  a  line  drawn  from 
Whinnyrig,  past  Ecclefechan,  Craigshaws,  Solway  Bank, 
and  Brooinholm,  to  ;Moorbumhead,  cease  to  be  valleys, 
or  are  flattened  into  plains,  variegated  only  by  occa- 
sional rising-grounds  or  low  hUls,  either  round-backed 
or  obtusely  conical.  The  valley  of  ihe  Nith  also,  for 
10  miles  before  it  touches  the  Solway,  is  in  all  respects 
a  plain,  ^vith  exception  of  a  short  range  of  low  hills  in 
Dumfries  and  Caerlaverock  parishes  and  a  few  unini- 
portant  isolated  eminences ;  and  the  E  wing  of  it, 
partly  going  flatly  from  it  to  the  base  of  the  Tinwald 
HiUs,  partly  going  southward,  thence  past  the  smaU 
Dumfries  and  Caerlaverock  range  to  the  Solway  Firth,  is 
the  dead  level  of  Lochar  Moss. 

The  river  Nith  and  one  or  two  of  its  unimportant  and 
remote  tributaries  enter  Dumfriesshire  through  openings 
or  gorges  in  its  north-western  boundaries,  and  a  small 
tributary  of  the  Annan  enters  through  a  gorge  in  the 
N  ;  but  all  other  streams  which  anywhere  traverse  the 
county  rise  within  its  own  limits.  The  Nith,  from  the 
point  of  entering  it,  and  the  Annan  and  the  Esk,  from 
short  distances  below  the  source,  draw  toward  them 
nearly  all  the  other  streams,  so  as  to  form  the  county 
into  three  great  valleys  or  basins,  but  the  Nith  giving 
the  lower  part  of  the  right  side  of  its  basin  to  Kirkcud- 
brightshire, and  the  Esk  going  entirely  in  its  lower  part 
into  England.  The  tliree  rivers  all  pursue  a  south- 
south-easterly  course— the  Nith  in  the  W,  the  Annan  in 
the  middle,  and  the  Esk  in  the  E;  and,  with  the 
exception  of  some  small  curvings,  they  flow  parallel  to 
^  397 


DUMFRIESSHIRE 

one  another,  at  au  average  distance  of  about  12  miles, 
imposing  upon  their  own  and  their  tributaries'  basins 
the  names  of  respectivelj'  Nithsdale,  Annandale,  and 
Eskdale.  The  streams  whicli  run  into  them  are  very 
numerous,  j-et  mostly  of  short  course,  of  small  volume, 
and  remarkable  chiefly  for  the  beauty  or  picturesqueness 
of  the  ravines  or  the  dells  which  they  traverse.  The 
chief  of  those  which  enter  the  Nith  are,  from  the  W, 
the  Kello,  the  Euchan,  the  Scar,  the  Cairn,  and  the 
Cluden  ;  from  the  E,  the  Crawick,  the  Minnick,  the 
Enterkin,  the  Carron,  the  Cample,  and  the  Duncow. 
The  chief  which  enter  the  Annan  are,  from  the  "\V,  the 
Evan  and  the  Kinnel ;  from  the  E,  the  Moffat,  the 
Wamphray,  the  Dryfe,  the  Milk,  and  the  Mein.  The 
chief  which  enter  the  Esk  are,  from  the  W,  the  Black 
Esk  and  the  Wauchope ;  from  the  E,  the  Megget, 
the  Ewes,  the  Tanas,  and  the  Liddel.  Four  rivulets, 
each  10  miles  or  more  in  length,  have  an  indepen- 
dent course  southward  to  the  Solway  —  the  Lochar 
and  the  Cummertrees  Pow  in  the  space  between  the 
Nith  and  the  Annan  ;  the  Kirtle  and  the  Sark  in  the 
space  between  the  Annan  and  the  Esk.  Several  of  the 
tributary  streams,  like  the  three  main  ones,  give  their 
names  to  their  own  basins — the  Jloffat,  the  Dryfe,  and 
the  Ewes  in  particular  giving  to  their  basins  the  names 
of  Moffatdale,  Dryfesdale,  and  Ewesdale.  A  gi'oup  of 
lakes,  the  largest  of  them  Castle  Loch  (6x5^  furl.), 
lies  near  Lochmaben ;  and  dark  Loch  Skene  (6  x  If 
furl. ),  remarkable  for  emitting  the  torrent  of  the  '  Grey 
I*Iare's  Tail, '  lies  on  the  N  border  at  the  source  of  Moffat 
Water.  Pure  springs  are  almost  everywhere  abundant ; 
chah'beate  springs  are  near  Moffat,  Annan,  and  Ruth- 
well  ;  and  sulphureous  at  Moflat  and  Closeburn  House. 

The  Geology. — The  oldest  rocks  in  Dumfriesshire  are  of 
Silurian  age,  consisting  mainly  of  greywackes,  flagstones, 
and  shales,  belonging  to  the  upper  and  lower  divisions 
of  that  formation.  A  line  drawn  from  the  head  of  Ewes 
"Water  in  Eskdale, south-westwards  by  Lockerbie  toMous- 
wald,  marks  the  boundarj'  between  the  two  divisions, 
the  Lower  Silurian  rocks  being  met  with  to  the  N  of 
this  limit.  The  members  of  both  series  have  been  much 
folded ;  but  by  means  of  the  lithological  characters  of 
the  strata,  and  with  the  aid  of  certain  fossiliferous  bands 
of  shales  yielding  graptolites,  it  is  possible  to  determine 
the  order  of  succession.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Moffat 
the  fossiliferous  black  shales  of  the  lower  division  are 
typically  developed,  where  they  have  been  divided  into 
several  well-marked  zones  by  means  of  the  graptolites 
which  occur  in  them  in  profusion.  They  are  admirably 
displayed  at  Dobbs  Lynn,  near  the  head  of  Moffat- 
dale, and  in  the  streams  on  the  S  side  of  the  Moffat 
valley.  The  Silurian  rocks,  ■which  now  form  the  great 
mass  of  high  ground  throughout  the  county,  were  ele- 
vated so  as  to  form  a  land  barrier  towards  the  close  of 
the  Silui'ian  period.  In  the  hollows  worn  out  of  this 
ancient  tableland,  the  strata  belonging  to  the  Old  Red 
Sandstone,  Carboniferous,  and  Permian  periods  were  de- 
posited. But  even  these  newer  palaeozoic  formations  have 
been  so  denuded  that  only  isolated  fragments  remain 
of  what  once  were  more  extensive  deposits. 

Along  the  county  boundary  in  Uiipcr  Nithsdale  the 
representatives  of  the  Lower  Old  Red  Sandstone  are  met 
with,  where  they  consist  of  sandstones  and  conglome- 
rates, associated  with  contemporaneous  volcanic  rot^ks. 
They  form  part  of  the  great  belt  of  Lower  Old  Red 
strata  stretching  from  the  Braid  Hills  near  Edinburgh 
into  Ayrshire.  The  Upper  Old  Red  Sandstone,  on  the 
other  hand,  forms  a  narrow  fringe  underlying  the  car- 
boniferous rocks  from  the  county  boundary  E  of  the  Ewes 
Water  south-westwards  by  Langholm  to  Brunswark.  At 
the  base  they  consist  of  conglomeratic  sandstones,  the 
included  pebbles  having  been  derived  from  the  waste  of 
the  Silurian  flagstones  and  shales.  These  are  overlaid 
by  friable  Red  sandstones  and  marls,  which  pass  con- 
formably underneath  the  zone  of  volcanic  materials 
which  always  intervene  between  them  and  the  overlying 
Carboniferous  strata.  The  zone  of  igneous  rocks  just 
referred  to  is  specially  interesting,  as  it  points  to  the 
existence  of  volcanic  action  on  the  S  side  of  the  Silurian 
398 


DUMFRIESSHIRE 

tableland  at  the  beginning  of  the  Carboniferous  period. 
The  igneous  rocks  consist  mainly  of  slaggy  and  amygda- 
loidal  porphyrites,  which  were  spread  over  the  ancient 
sea  bottom  as  regular  lava  flows.  Brunswark  Hill  is 
made  up  of  this  igneous  material.  Some  of  the  volcanic 
orifices  from  which  the  igneous  materials  were  dis- 
charged are  still  to  be  met  M-ith  along  the  watershed 
between  Liddesdale  and  Teviotdale  in  the  adjacent 
county  of  Roxburgh. 

The  carboniferous  rocks  are  met  with  in  three  separate 
areas: — (1.)  in  the  district  lying  between  Langholm  and 
Ruthwell ;  (2.)  at  Closeburn  near  Thornhill;  (3.)  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Sanquhar.  The  first  of  these  areas  is 
the  most  extensive,  measuring  aliout  22  miles  in  length, 
and  varying  in  breadth  from  2  to  7  miles.  The  strata 
included  in  it  belong  to  the  Calciferous  Sandstone  series 
which  forms  the  lowest  subdivision  of  the  Carboniferous 
formation.  The  following  zones  were  made  out  in  the 
course  of  the  geological  survey  of  the  district.  They 
are  given  in  descending  order  : — (7. )  Canonbie  coals  ; 
(6.)  Marine  Limestone  series  of  Penton,  Gilnockie,  and 
Ecclefechan  ;  (5.)  Volcanic  zone  of  fine  tuff  and  porphy- 
rite,  including  about  50  feet  of  fine  shales  ;  (4.)  Irvine 
Burn  and  Woodcock  air  sandstones  ;  (3. )  Tarras  Water- 
foot  Cementstone  series  ;  (2.)  White  sandstones ;  (1.) 
Brunswark  and  Ward  Law  volcanic  rocks. 

The  recent  discovery  which  has  proved  so  interesting 
and  important  was  met  with  in  the  fine  shales  of  zone 
(5)  and  partly  in  zone  (3).  Upwards  of  twenty  new 
species  of  ganoid  fishes  were  obtained  from  these 
beds  near  Langholm,  and  out  of  the  sixteen  genera 
to  which  these  species  belong  five  are  new  to  science. 
Very  few  of  the  species  are  common  to  the  carboniferous 
rocks  of  the  Lothians,  which  has  an  important  bearing 
on  the  history  of  that  period.  Along  with  the  fishes 
were  found  about  twelve  new  species  of  decapod  crus- 
taceans and  three  new  species  of  a  new  genus  of  Phyllo- 
pods.  Of  special  importance  is  the  discovery  of  four 
new  species  of  scorpions.  Hitherto  the  occurrence  of 
fossil  scorpions  in  rocks  of  Carboniferous  age  has  been 
extremely  rare.  The  specimens  recently  obtained  are 
admirably  preserved,  and  from  a  minute  examination  of 
them  it  is  evident  that  they  closely  resemble  their  living 
representatives.  The  remains  of  several  new  plants 
were  also  found  in  the  fine  shales  already  referred  to. 

Within  the  Silurian  area.  Carboniferous  rocks  are  met 
with  in  the  Thornhill  and  Sanquhar  basins.  These 
deposits  lie  in  ancient  hollows  worn  out  of  the  Silurian 
tableland  which  date  back  as  far  as  the  Carboniferous 
period.  At  Closeburn  and  Barjarg  there  are  beds  of 
marine  limestone  associated  with  sandstones  and  shales 
which  probably  belong  to  the  Calciferous  Sandstone 
series.  Again,  at  the  south-eastern  limit  of  the  Sanquhar 
coalfield  there  are  small  outliers  of  the  Carl)onif'erous 
Limestone  series,  consisting  of  sandstones,  shales,  and 
thin  fossiliferous  limestones.  The  latter  rapidly  thin 
out,  and  the  true  coal  measures  rest  directly  on,  the 
Silurian  platform.  From  these  facts  it  would  appear 
that  in  Upper  Nithsdale  the  Silurian  barrier  did  not 
sink  beneath  the  sea-level  till  the  latter  part  of  the 
Carboniferous  period,  not  in  fact  till  the  time  of  the 
deposition  of  the  coal  measures.  The  Sanquhar  coal- 
field is  about  9  miles  in  length,  and  from  2  to  4  miles 
in  breadth.  It  contains  several  valuable  coal  seams, 
and  from  the  general  character  of  the  strata  it  is  pro- 
bable that  they  are  the  southern  prolongations  of  the 
Ayrshire  coal  measures.  Another  fact  deserves  to  be 
mentioned  here,  which  was  established  in  the  course  of 
the  survey  of  the  county.  The  Canonbie  coal  seams  do 
not  belong  to  the  true  Coal  Pleasures  as  has  hitherto 
been  supposed,  but  are  regularly  intercalated  with  the 
members  of  the  Calciferous  Sandstone  series. 

The  strata  next  in  order  are  of  Permian  age  which 
are  invariably  separated  from  the  Carboniferous  rocks 
by  a  marked  unconformity.  Indeed  so  violent  is  the 
unconformity  that  we  find  the  Permian  strata  to  the 
E  of  Lochar  Moss  stealing  across  the  edges  of  the  Cal- 
ciferous Sandstone  beds  till  they  rest  directly  on  the 
Silurian  rocks. 


DUMFRIESSHIRE 

Permian  strata  occur  in  five  separate  areas — 1  at  Moffat, 
2  at  LocliHiaben  and  Corncockle  Moor,  3  between  Annan 
and  the  mouth  of  the  Esk,  4  the  Dumfries  basin,  5  the 
Thornhill  basin.  In  addition  to  these  areas  there  is  a 
small  patch  of  contemporaneous  igneous  rocks  overlying 
the  Sanr^uliar  coallield,  which  is  believed  to  be  of  the  same 
age.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Moffat  the  breccias  are 
evidently  an  ancient  morainic  deposit  of  glacial  origin. 
Several  well-striated  stones  were  found  in  them  resemb- 
ling the  scratched  stones  in  ordinarj'  boulder  clay.  In 
the  red  sandstones  of  Corncockle  Moor  reptilian  foot- 
prints have  been  detected,  produced  by  reptiles  mov- 
ing in  a  S  direction,  which  led  to  the  witty  remark  of 
Dean  Buckland  '  that  even  at  that  early  date  the  migra- 
tion from  Scotland  to  England  had  commenced.'  Be- 
tween Annan  and  Canonbie  the  strata  consist  of  red 
sandstones,  while  in  the  Dumfries  basin  the  red  sand- 
stones of  Locharbriggs  are  overlaid  by  an  alternation  of 
red  sandstones  and  breccias.  An  interesting  feature 
connected  with  the  Thornhill  basin  is  the  occurrence 
of  contemporaneous  volcanic  rocks  at  the  base  of  the 
series.  They  form  a  continuous  ring  I'ound  the  northern 
half  of  the  basin  cropping  out  from  underneath  the 
breccias  and  red  sandstones.  In  the  Sanquhar  basin 
also  there  are  several  'necks'  or  volcanic  vents  filled 
■with  agglomerate,  which  in  all  likelihood  mark  the 
sites  from  which  lavas  of  Permian  age  were  discharged. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  the  proofs  of  the  original  ex- 
tension of  the  Permian  strata  over  areas  from  which  they 
have  been  completely  removed  by  denudation.  Some  of 
the  Carboniferous  strata  in  the  Sanquhar  coal-field  have 
been  stained  red  by  infiltration  of  iron  oxide,  and  in  the 
S  of  the  county  the  Calcifei'ous  Sandstone  beds  overlying 
the  Canonbie  coals  have  been  so  much  reddened  as  to 
resemble  externally  the  Permian  sandstones.  Even  on 
Eskdalemuir  the  Silurian  greywackes  have  been  stained 
in  a  similar  manner.  In  these  cases  the  older  rocks 
■were  buried  underneath  strata  of  Permian  age  from 
■R'hich  the  percolating  water  derived  the  iron  oxide. 

Within  the  limits  of  the  county  there  are  intrusive 
igneous  rocks  of  which  the  most  conspicuous  example  is 
the  mass  of  granite  on  Spango  AVater,  about  5  miles  N 
of  Sanquhar.  This  mass  is  about  3  miles  long,  and 
upwards  of  1  mile  in  breadth.  There  are  also  dykes  or 
veins  of  felstone  and  basalt.  One  example  of  the  latter 
deserves  special  notice.  It  has  been  traced  from  the 
Leadhills  south-eastwards  by  Moffat,  across  Eskdalemuir 
by  Langholm  to  the  English  border.  In  texture  it  varies 
from  a  dolerite  to  tachylite,  -which  is  the  glassy  form  of 
basalt. 

Only  a  passing  allusion  can  be  made  to  the  proofs  of 
glaciation  which  are  so  abundant  throughout  the  county. 
During  the  period  of  extreme  glaciation  the  general  trend 
of  the  ice  sheet  was  SE  towards  the  Solway  Firth  and 
the  English  border.  The  widespread  covering  of  boulder 
clay  which  is  now  found  in  the  upland  vallej's  and  on 
the  low  grounds  is  the  relic  of  this  ancient  glaciation. 
But  in  the  valleys  draining  the  main  masses  of  high 
ground  there  are  numerous  moraines  deposited  by  local 
glaciers.  Amongst  the  finest  examples  are  those  round 
Loch  Skene  at  the  head  of  Motfatdale. 

Economic  Minerals. — Coal  seams  occur  at  Sanquhar 
and  Canonbie,  and  limestone  at  Closeburn,  Barjarg, 
Kelhead,  and  Harelaw  Hill,  Liddesdale.  Veins  of 
silver  and  lead  ore  are  met  with  at  Wanlockhead,  anti- 
mony at  Glendinning  and  Meggat  Water.  The  building 
stones  in  greatest  demand  are  the  white  sandstones  of 
the  Carboniferous  formation,  the  Permian  red  sandstones 
of  Thornhill,  Dumfries,  Corncockle,  and  Annan  ;  while 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Moffat  the  coarse  grits  of 
Silurian  age  are  much  used.  (B.  N.  Peach,  F.K.S.E., 
and  J.  Home,  F.R.S.E.,  of  the  Geological  Survey  of 
Scotland. ) 

The  soil  in  the  mountain  districts  is  mainly  moorish, 
mostly  unsuitable  for  tillage,  and  partly  irreclaimable  ; 
but  in  places  where  it  has  a  dry  subsoil,  is  capable  of 
gradual  transmutation  into  loam.  The  soil,  in  the  low- 
land districts,  is  generally  of  a  light  nature,  incumbent 
on  either  rock,  gravel,  or  sand;  in  Nithsdale  and  Annan- 


DUMFRIESSHIBE 

dale,  is  mostly  dry  ;  in  Eskdale,  is  generally  wzt ;  in 
some  places,  -vvliere  it  lies  on  a  retentive  subsoil,  is  cold, 
and  occasions  rankness  of  vegetation  ;  in  considerable 
tracts  of  the  outspread  plain,  is  of  a  loamy  character, 
rich  in  vegetable  mould  ;  on  the  gentle  slopes  of  the 
midland  district,  is  an  intermixture  of  loam  with  other 
soils  ;  on  the  swells  or  knolls  of  the  valleys,  and  even 
of  the  bogs,  is  of  a  gravelly  or  sandy  character  ;  on  the 
margins  of  streams,  is  alluvium,  or  what  is  here  called 
holm-land,  generally  poor  and  shallow  in  the  upland 
dells,  but  generally  rich  and  deep  in  the  lowland  valleys. 
Cla}',  as  a  soil,  seldom  occurs,  except  as  mixed  with 
other  substances ;  but,  as  a  subsoil,  is  extensively  found, 
either  white,  blue,  or  red,  under  the  greensward  of 
hills,  and  beneath  soft  bogs.  Peat-moss  exists  in  great 
expanses  both  on  the  hills  and  in  the  vales ;  and  wherever 
it  so  lies  as  to  be  amenable  to  drainage,  is  of  such  a 
character  as  to  be  convertable  into  good  soil.  Sea-silt, 
or  the  saline  muddy  deposit  from  the  waters  of  the  Sol- 
way,  spreads  extensively  out  from  the  estuary  of  the 
Lochar,  and  both  forms  a  productive  soil  in  itself,  and 
serves  as  an  effective  top-dressing  for  the  adjacent  peat- 
moss. The  percentage  of  cultivated  area  is  32 '5  ;  27,472 
acres  are  under  wood  ;  and  little  short  of  two-thirds  of 
the  entire  county  is  either  pastoral  or  waste. 

Arable  farms  range  mostly  between  100  and  150  acres, 
yet  vary  from  60  to  SOO  ;  and  sheep-farms  range  from 
300  to  3000  acres.  Some  farms,  chiefly  along  the 
mutual  border  of  the  upland  and  the  lowland  regions, 
are  both  pastoral  and  arable,  and  are  regarded  as  par- 
ticularly convenient  and  remunerative ;  and  these 
comprise  about  one-third  of  the  total  acreage  under 
rotation  of  crops.  The  cattle,  for  the  dairy,  are  mostly 
of  the  Ayrshire  breed  ;  for  the  shambles  or  for  exporta- 
tion, are  mostly  of  the  Galloway  breed.  The  sheep,  on 
the  uplands,  are  either  black-faced  or  Cheviots  ;  in  the 
lowlands  are  a  mixe^l  breed,  resulting  fi'om  crosses  of 
the  Cheviots  with  Leicesters,  Southdowns,  and  Spanish 
breeds.  The  draught  horses  are  of  the  Clydesdale  breed. 
Pigs  are  raised  chiefly  for  exportation  of  pork  and  bacon 
into  England  ;  and  they  have,  for  many  years,  been  an 
object  of  general  attention  among  both  farmers  and 
cotters.  The  value  of  the  pork  produced  rose  from 
£500  in  1770  to  £12,000  in  1794,  to  £60,000  in  1812, 
and  to  £100,000  in  1867,  since  which  last  year  it  has 
somewhat  fallen  off,  there  being  only  10,286  pigs  in  the 
county  in  1881  against  15,088  in  1877,  and  18,612  in 
1866. 

The  commerce  of  the  county  is  all  conducted  through 
Dumfries  and  its  sub-ports.  Manufactures  in  hosiery  and 
tweeds  have  recently  become  important  in  Dumfries ;  but 
manufactures  in  other  departments,  either  there  or 
throughout  the  county,  are  of  comparatively  small 
amount.  Hosiery  employs  many  looms  in  Thornhill, 
Lochmaben,  and  other  townis  and  villages ;  woollen 
fabrics,  of  various  kinds,  are  made  at  Sanquhar  and 
Moftat ;  ginghams  are  manufactured  at  Sanquhar  and 
Annan ;  muslins,  at  Kii'kconnel ;  com'se  linens,  at 
Langholm.  Weaving,  in  difi'erent  departments,  em- 
ploys many  hands  ;  artificership,  in  all  the  ordinary 
departments,  emplo3-s  many  more  ;  and  operations  con- 
nected with  coal  and  lead-mining  employ  a  few.  The 
energies  of  the  county,  as  compared  with  those  of  other 
counties,  either  in  Scotland  or  in  England,  are  not 
small  ;  but,  partly  in  consequence  of  dearth  of  coal, 
partly  for  other  reasons,  they  are  mainly  absorbed 
in  the  pursuits  and  accessories  of  agricidture ;  and 
yet,  since  at  least  the  commencement  of  the  present 
century,  they  have  been  so  spent  as  to  produce  an 
amount  of  prosperity  scarcely,  if  at  all,  inferior  to  what 
has  been  realised  in  other  counties.  The  roads,  the 
fences,  the  dwelling-houses,  the  churches,  the  people's 
dress,  and  the  people's  manners  in  Dumfriesshire,  taken 
as  indices  of  progress  and  refinement,  will  bear  compari- 
son with  those  of  any  other  district  in  Great  Britain. 
Tlic  railways  within  the  county  are  the  Glasgow  and 
South-Western,  down  Nithsdale,  and  across  the  foot  of 
Annandale  ;  the  Caledonian,  down  tlie  entire  length  of 
Annandale  ;    the  Dumfries  and   Lockerbie,  across  the 

399 


DUMFRIESSHIRE 

interior  from  Dnmfiies  to  Lockerbie  ;  the  Solway  Junc- 
tion, in  the  S  of  Aunandale,  from  the  Caledonian  near 
Kirtlebridge  to  the  Solway  Firth  near  Annan  ;  small 

Sart  of  the  Castle-Douglas  and  Dumfries,  on  the  W  bor- 
er of  Dumfries  parish  ;  and  branches  of  the  Hawick  and 
Carlisle  section  of  the  North  British  to  Langholm  and 
Gretna. 

The  quoad  dvilia  parishes,  inclusive  of  two  whi^'h 
extend  slightly  into  Lanarkshire,  amount  to  43.  The 
royal  burghs  are  Dumfries,  Annan,  Lochmaben,  and 
Sanquhar.  The  liurghs  of  barony  are  ^lolfat,  Lockerbie, 
Langholm,  Ecclefechan,  Thornhill,  and  Moniaive.  The 
principal  villages  ai-e  Springfield,  Eaglesfield,  Sunnybrae, 
Bridekirk,  Gasstown,  Heathery  Row,  Hightae,  Park,  Dun- 
reggan.  Rowan  Burn,  Wanlockhead,  Greenbrae,  Glen- 
caple,  Torthorwald,  Roucan,  Collin,  Penpont,  Kirkcounel, 
Kirtlebridge,  "Waterbeck,  Doniock,  Cummcrtrees,  Ruth- 
well,  Clarencefield,  Mouswald,  Closeburn,  Holywood, 
Kelton,  Locharbriggs,  Amisfield,  Dalswinton,"\Vamphray, 
Carronbridge,  and  Crawick  ilill.  The  principal  seats 
are  Drumlanrig  Castle,  Langholm  Lodge,  Castlemilk, 
Kinmount,  Kinharvey  House,  Glen  Stewart,  Tinwald 
House,  Comlongan  Castle,  Dumcrieft"  House,  Springkell, 
Jardine  Hall,  "Rockhall,  Westerhall,  Raehills,  Craw- 
fordton,  Amisfield  House,  Closeburn  Hall,  Dalswinton 
House,  Hoddam  Castle,  JMossknow,  Halleaths,  Mount 
Annan,  Craigdarroch,  Blackwood  House,  JIurraythwaite, 
Broomholm,  Barjarg  Tower,  Speddoch,  Dormont,  Elshie- 
shields,  Canisalloch,  Conlieath,  Capenoch,  Courance, 
Glenae,  Kirkmichael  House,  Rammerscales,  Craigielands, 
Corehead,  Langshaw,  Cove,  Maxwelltown  House,  AVar- 
manbie,  Bonshaw,  Northfield,  Boreland,  Broorarig, 
Cowhill,  Portrack,  Gribton,  Newtonairds,  Milnhead, 
Bumfoot,  Lanrick,  and  Corehead.  According  to  Mis- 
cellaneous Statistics  of  the  United  Kingdom  (1879), 
676,971  acres,  with  a  total  gross  estimated  rental  of 
£595,512,  were  divided  among  4177  landowners,  one 
holding  253,514  acres  (rental  £97,530),  one  64,079 
(£27,884),  six  together  82,759  (£50,690),  twelve  81,881 
(£59,150),  t-wenty-six  76,576  (£50,977),  twenty-eight 
36,800  (£26,318),  fifty-three  37,505  (£129,105),  etc. 

The  covmty  is  governed  (1882)  by  a  lord-lieutenant, 
a  vice-lieutenant,  11  deputy-lieutenants,  a  sheriff,  a 
sheriff-substitute,  and  97  magistrates.  The  principal 
courts  are  held  at  Dumfries  ;  and  sheriff  small-debt 
courts  are  held  at  Annan  on  the  first  Tuesdaj'  of 
January,  ilaj-,  and  September  ;  at  Langholm  on  the 
third  Saturday  of  January,  May,  and  September ;  at 
Lockerbie  on  the  first  Thursday  of  April,  August,  and 
December ;  at  Mofiat  on  the  first  Friday  of  April, 
August,  and  December  ;  and  at  Thornhill  on  the  second 
Thursday  of  April,  August,  and  December.  The  police 
force,  in  1881,  besides  10  men  for  Dumfries  and  2  for 
Annan,  comprised  35  men  ;  and  the  salary  of  the  chief 
constable  was  £400.  The  nimiber  of  persons  tried  at 
the  instance  of  the  police,  in  1880,  besides  those  in 
Dmnfries  and  Annan,  was  785  ;  convicted,  749  ;  com- 
mitted for  trial,  38  ;  not  dealt  with,  226.  Tlie  coiuity 
prison  is  at  Dumfries.  The  committals  ibr  crime,  in  the 
yearly  average  of  1836-40,  were  71  ;  of  1841-45,  96  ; 
of  1846-50,  209  ;  of  1851-55,  141 ;  of  1856-60,  99  ;  of 
1861-65,  50  ;  of  1865-69,  29  ;  of  1871-75,  50  ;  and  of 
1876-80,  50.  The  annual  value  of  real  property,  as- 
sessed at  £295,621  in  1815,  Avas  £319,751  in  1843, 
£350,636  in  1861,  and  £572,945  in  1882,  including 
£75,286  for  railways.  The  four  royal  burghs,  together 
with  Kirkcudbright,  send  one  member  to  parliament, 
and  the  rest  of  tlie  county  sends  another,  and  had  a  con- 
stituency of  3469  in  1882.  Pop.  (1801)  54,597,  (1811) 
62,960,  (1821)  70,878,  (1831)  73,770,(1841)  72,830, 
(1851)  78,123,  (1861)  75,878,  (1871)  74,808,  (1881) 
76,124,  of  whom  35,956  were  males.  Houses  (1881) 
15,656  inhabited,  835  vacant,  109  building. 

The  registration  county  takes  in  small  parts  of  Moffat 
and  Kirkpatrick-Juxta  parislies  from  Lauarksliire  ;  and 
had,  in  liSl,  a  population  of  76,151.  All  tlie  parishes 
are  assessed  for  the  poor.  Dumfries  parish  has  a  poor- 
house  for  itself  ;  and  respectively  6  and  9  jjarishes  form 
the  poor-law  combiuatious  of  Kirkpatrick-Flenung  and 
400 


DUMFRIESSHIRE 

Upper  Nithsdale.  The  number  of  registered  poor,  in 
the  year  ending  14  May  1880,  was  1688  ;  of  dependants 
on  these,  872  ;  of  casual  poor,  1312  ;  of  dependants  on 
these,  1007.  The  receij)ts  for  the  poor,  in  that  year, 
were  £19,638,  Is.  6jd  ;  and  the  expenditure  was 
£19,446,  8s.  lOd.  The  number  of  pauper  lunatics  was 
211,  their  cost  being  £3816,  18s.  8d.  The  percentage 
of  illegitimate  births  was  15-9  in  1872,  157  in  1877, 
13-5  in  1S79,  and  13-8  in  1880. 

Dumfriesshire,  in  the  times  of  Established  Episcopacy, 
formed  part  of  the  diocese  of  Glasgow,  and  was  divided 
into  the  deaneries  of  Nithsdale  and  Annandale.  And 
now,  under  Established  Presbyterianism,  it  lies  wholly 
within  the  province  of  the  sjmod  of  Dumfries,  but  does 
not  constitute  all  that  proA-ince.  Its  parishes  are  dis- 
tributed among  the  presbyteries  of  Dumfries,  Annan, 
Lochmaben,  Langholm,  and  Penpont  ;  but  those  in 
Dumfries  presbytery  are  conjoined  with  12  in  Kirkcud- 
brightshire, those  in  Langholm  presbytery  with  Castle- 
ton  in  Roxburghshire.  In  1882  the  places  of  worship 
A^-ithin  the  county  were  49  Established  (14,373  com- 
mimicants  in  1878),  27  Free  (5882  members  in  1881), 
22  U.P.  (4381  members  in  1880),  2  Independent,  4 
Evangelical  Union,  1  Baptist,  1  Methodist  chapel,  3 
Episcopal,  and  2  Roman  Catholic.  In  the  year  ending 
30  Sept.  1880,  the  county  had  115  schools  (96  of  them 
public),  which,  with  accommodation  for  15,126  children, 
had  12,424  on  the  rolls,  and  9709  in  average  attendance. 

The  territory  now  forming  Dumfriesshire,  together 
with  large  part  of  Galloway,  belonged  to  the  Caledonian 
Selgovae ;  passed,  after  the  Roman  demission,  to  the 
kingdom  of  Cumbria  or  Strathclj'de ;  was  much  over- 
run by  the  Dalriadans,  both  from  the  N  of  Ireland  and 
from  Kintyre  ;  rose,  for  a  time,  into  a  condition  of  rude 
independence  ;  was  subjugated  by  the  Scots  or  Scoto- 
Dalriadans  after  the  union  of  the  Scoto-Dalriadan  and 
the  Pictavian  kingdoms  ;  and  was  constituted  a  county  or 
placed  under  a  slieriff  by  "William  the  Lyon.  But, 
during  a  considerable  period,  its  sheriffs  had  direct 
authority  only  within  Nithsdale,  and  no  more  than 
nominal  authority  in  the  other  districts.  Both  Annan- 
dale  and  Eskdale,  from  the  time  of  David  I.  till  that  of 
Robert  Bruce,  were  under  separate  or  independent 
baronial  jurisdiction  ;  held,  in  the  former,  by  Robert 
Bruce's  ancestors,  in  the  latter,  b}''  various  great  laud- 
owners.  The  coimty  then  consisted  of  the  sheriffship  of 
Nithsdale,  the  stewartry  of  Annandale,  and  the  regality 
of  Eskdale  ;  and  was  cut  into  three  jurisdictions  nearly 
corresponding  in  their  limits  to  the  basins  of  the  three 
principal  rivers.  ^Bruce,  after  his  accession  to  the 
throne,  framed  measures  which  issued  in  a  comprehen- 
sive hereditary  sheriffship  ;  and  an  Act,  passed  in  the 
time  of  George  II. ,  adjusted  the  jurisdiction  of  the  county 
to  the  condition  in  which  it  now  exists. 

Great  barons,  about  the  time  of  David  I.,  were  pro- 
prietors of  most  of  the  lands  in  the  county.  Donegal, 
the  ancestor  of  the  Edgars,  owned  great  part  of  Niths- 
dale, and  was  called  Dunegal  of  Stranith.  The  Maccus- 
wells,  ancestors  of  the  Maxwells,  held  the  lands  of 
Cacrlaverock  ;  the  Comjms  held  the  estates  of  Dal- 
swinton and  Duncow,  and  lands  extending  thence  south- 
ward to  Castled3'kcs  in  the  southern  vicinity  of  Dum- 
fries ;  the  Bruces,  ancestors  of  the  royal  Bruce,  held 
Annandale,  and  resided  chiefly  at  Lochmaben ;  the 
Kirkpatricks,  the  Johnstons,  the  Carlyles,  and  the 
Carnocs  hekl  portions  of  Annandale  as  retainers  of  tho 
Bruces ;  and  the  Souliscs,  the  Avenels,  the  Rossedals, 
and  others  held  Eskdale.  The  Baliols  also,  though 
not  properl}"^  barons  of  the  county  itself,  but  only  im- 
pinging on  it  through  succession  to  the  lords  of  Gal- 
loway, yet  powerfully  afi'ected  its  fortunes.  Dumfries- 
shire, during  the  wars  between  the  Bruces  and  the 
Baliols,  was  placed  betwixt  two  fires  ;  or,  to  use  a 
different  figure,  it  nursed  at  its  breasts  both  of  the 
competitors  for  the  crown  ;  and,  from  the  nature  of  its 
])Osition  bearing  aloft  tlie  Bruce  in  its  right  arm,  and 
both  the  Balioi  and  the  Comyn  in  its  left,  it  was  pecu- 
liarly exposed  to  suffering.  The  successful  Bruce,  after 
his  victory  of  Bannockburn,  gave  the  Comyns'  manor 


DUMGLOW 

of  Dalswinton  to  "Walter  Stewart,  and  their  manor  of 
Duncow  to  Robert  Boyd  ;  bestowed  his  own  lordship  of 
Annandale,  with  the  castle  of  Lochmaben,  on  Sir 
Thomas  Randolph,  and  created  him  Earl  of  Moray  ;  and 
conferred  on  Sir  James  Douglas,  in  addition  to  the  pift 
of  Douglasdale  in  Lanarkshire,  the  greater  part  of  Esk- 
dale,  and  other  extensive  possessions  in  Dumfriesshire. 
The  county  suffered  again,  and  was  once  more  the  chief 
seat  of  strife  during  the  conflicts  between  the  Bruces 
and  the  Baliols  in  the  time  of  David  II.  Nor  did  it 
sufter  less  in  degree,  while  it  suffered  longer  in  dura- 
tion, under  the  subsequent  proceedings  of  the  rebel- 
lious Douglases.  These  haughty  barons,  'whose  coronet 
so  often  counterpoised  the  crown,'  grew  so  rapidly  in  at 
once  descent,  acquisition,  power,  and  ambition,  as  prac- 
tically to  become  lords-paramount  of  both  Dumfriesshire 
and  Kirkcudbrightshii-e.  Their  possessions,  at  their 
attainder  in  1455,  reverted  to  the  Crown,  and  were  in 
part  bestowed  on  the  Earl  of  March  ;  yet  still,  through 
oM  influence  and  through  action  of  old  retainers  and 
their  descendants,  continued  to  give  the  Douglases  a 
strong  hold  upon  the  county,  such  as  enabled  them  to 
embroil  it  in  further  troubles.  The  county  was  invaded, 
in  1484,  by  the  exiled  Earl  of  Douglas  and  the  Duke  of 
Albany ;  and  thence,  during  a  century  and  a  half,  it 
appears  never  to  have  enjoyed  a  few  years  of  continuous 
repose.  Even  so  late  as  1607,  the  martial  followers  of 
Lord  ilaxwell  and  the  Earl  of  Morton  were  led  out  to 
battle  on  its  soil,  in  a  way  to  threaten  it  with  desola- 
tion ;  and  all  onward  till  the  union  of  the  Scottish  and 
the  English  crowns,  marauding  forces  and  invading 
armies,  at  only  brief  intervals  of  time,  overran  it  from 
the  southern  border,  and  subjected  it  to  pillage,  iire, 
and  bloodshed.  The  county  sat  down  in  quietude  under 
James  VI.,  and  begun  then  to  wear  a  dress  of  social 
comeliness ;  but  again,  during  the  reign  of  the  Charleses, 
it  was  agitated  with  broils  and  insurrections  ;  and,  in 
the  rebellions  of  1715  and  1745,  especially  in  the  latter, 
it  was  the  scene  of  numerous  disasters.  The  Jacobites 
were  strong  in  it,  and  worked  so  vigorously  in  the  cause 
of  the  Chevalier  and  the  Pretender  as  to  draw  destruc- 
tion on  their  own  families.  The  ilaxwells,  in  particular, 
were  utterly  overthrown  by  the  attainder  of  the  Earl  of 
Nithsdale  in  1715  ;  and  several  other  great  families  lost 
all  their  possessions  and  their  influence  either  then  or  in 
1746.  The  Dukes  of  Buccleuch,  partly  through  exten- 
sion of  their  own  proper  territories,  partly  through 
inheritance  of  those  of  the  Dukes  of  Queensberry,  are 
now  by  far  the  largest  and  most  influential  lando\vners 
of  the  county ;  and  the  Marquis  of  Queensberry  and 
Hope-Johnstone  of  Annandale  hold  a  high  rank. 

Caledonian  cairns,  camps,  and  hill-forts  are  numerous 
in  many  of  the  upland  districts,  particularly  on  the 
south-eastern  hills  ;  remains  of  Caledonian  stone  circles 
are  in  the  parishes  of  Gretna,  Eskdalemuir,  Wamphray, 
Moffat,  and  Holywood  ;  Roman  stations,  Roman  camps, 
or  remains  of  them  are  at  Brunswark,  Castle  O'er, 
Raeburnfoot,  Torwoodmoor,  Trohoughton,  Gallaberry, 
Wardlaw  Hill,  and  Caerlaverock  ;  Roman  roads  con- 
nected the  Roman  stations  with  one  another,  and  went 
up  Annandale,  and  westward  thence  to  Nithsdale.  A 
remarkable  antiquity,  supposed  by  some  writers  to  be 
Anglo-Saxon,  by  others  to  be  Danish,  is  in  Ruthwell 
churchj'ard  ;  old  towers  are  at  Amisfield,  Lag,  Achin- 
cass,  Robgill,  and  Lochwood  ;  and  ancient  castles,  some 
in  high  preservation,  others  utterly  dilapidated,  are  at 
Caerlaverock,  Comlongan,  Torthorwald,  Closeburn,  Mor- 
ton, Sanquhar,  Hoddam,  Wauchope,  and  Langliolm. 
Ancient  monasteries  were  at  Dumfries,  Ca'Aonbie,  Holy- 
wood,  and  other  places ;  and  a  fine  monastic  ruin  is 
still  at  Lincluden.  Vast  quantities  of  ancient  coins, 
medals,  weapons,  and  pieces  of  defensive  armour  have 
been  found.  Numerous  places  figure  prominently  in  Sir 
Walter  Scott's  Guy  Manneriiuj,  llcdgauntlct,  and  Abbot. 
See,  besides  works  cited  under  Annandale,  Caer- 
laverock, Drumlanrig,  Dumfries,  Lochmaben,  and 
Moffat,  two  articles  on  Dumfriesshire  in  Trans.  Highl. 
and  Ag.  S'oc,  1869. 

Dumglow.     See  Drumglow. 
26 


DUNAGOIL 

Dumgree,  an  ancient  parish  in  the  upper  part  of 
Annandale,  Dumfriesshire,  now  divided  between  Kirk- 
patrick-Juxta  and  Johnstone.  The  larger  section  of  it 
is  within  Kirkpatrick-Juxta^  and  retains  there,  near  the 
right  bank  of  Kinnel  Water,  some  traces  of  the  ancient 
cliureh. 

Dumphail.     See  Duniphail. 

Dun,  a  parish  of  NE  Forfarshire,  containing,  towards 
its  south-western  corner.  Bridge  of  Dun  Junction  on 
the  main  line  of  the  Caledonian,  4  miles  E  bySof  Brechin, 
15i  ENE  of  Forfar,  and  5f  (3i  by  road)  W  by  N  of  .Mon- 
trose, under  whicli  it  has  a  post  and  railway  telegraph 
office.  Bounded  N  by  Logiepert,  NE  by  Montrose,  SE 
by  Montrose  Basin,  S  by  the  river  South  Esk,  dividing 
it  from  Iklaryton,  SW  by  Brechin,  and  NW  by  Straca- 
thro,  the  parish  has  an  utmost  length  from  E  to  W  of 
3^  miles,  an  utmost  width  from  N  to  S  of  2|  miles, 
and  an  area  of  6030  acres,  of  which  1586§  are  fore- 
shore and  1374  vvater.  Montrose  Basin,  over  all  its 
connection  with  the  parish,  is  alternately  an  ornament 
and  an  eyesore — at  high-tide  a  beautiful  lagoon,  but  at 
ebb  a  dismal  expanse  of  black  and  slimy  silt.  The 
South  Esk,  along  all  the  southern  border,  is  a  fine 
stream,  abounding  with  salmon  and  sea-trout,  and  it  is 
crossed  at  Bridge  of  Dun  by  a  handsome  three-arched 
bridge,  built  in  1787.  A  loch  called  Dun's  Dish  (4^  x 
IJ  furl.)  lies  at  an  altitude  of  242  feet  in  the  north- 
western corner,  and  sends  off  a  burn  to  the  South  Esk. 
The  land  along  the  river  and  the  basin  is  low,  flat,  and 
protected  by  embankments,  thence  rises  gently  to  the 
centre  of  the  parish,  and  thence  to  the  western  and 
north-western  borders  is  somewhat  tabular,  attaining 
230  feet  above  sea-level  near  Balnillo,  202  near  Dun 
House,  207  near  Glenskinno,  279  in  Dun  Wood,  and 
290  near  Damside.  The  soil,  on  the  low  flat  gi-ound, 
is  a  fertile  clayey  loam  ;  on  the  ascent  thence  to  the 
centre  is  partly  light  and  sandy,  partly  rich  blackish 
mould  ;  and  be3'ond  is  first  of  good  quality,  next  wet 
and  miry.  About  three-fourths  of  the  entire  area  are  in 
tillage,  and  nearly  one-sixth  is  under  wood.  In  Dun, 
in  1839,  was  born  Alexander  Hay  Jaap  ('  H.  A.  Page'), 
sub-editor  of  6-'oot^  TFordsshice  1865  ;  and  John  Erskine, 
the  Laird  of  Dun  (1508-91),  was  born  at  the  family  seat 
of  Dun.  He  was  a  leader  of  the  Reformation  party,  and 
at  his  house  in  1555  John  Knox  preached  almost  daily, 
making  many  converts.  David  Erskine,  Lord  Dun 
(1670-1755),  an  eminent,  lawyer,  and  a  stanch  upholder 
of  the  Episcopalian  non-jurors,  was  also  born  at  Dun 
House,  which,  standing  7  furlongs  NNE  of  Bridge  of 
Dun,  is  now  the  seat  of  Augustus  Jn.  Wm.  Hy. 
Kennedy-Erskine,  Esq.  (b.  1866  ;  sue.  1870),  owner  of 
1727  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £3571  per  annum. 
The  other  chief  mansion  is  Langley  Park  ;  and  the 
property  is  mostly  divided  among  four.  Dun  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Brechin  and  sjTiod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £245.  The  parish  church,  9^  fur- 
longs N  by  W  of  Bridge  of  Dim,  was  built  about  1833, 
and  contains  300  sittings  ;  a  public  school,  with  accom- 
modation for  140  children,  had  (ISSO)  an  ^average 
attendance  of  84,  and  a  grant  of  £77,  2s.  Valuation 
(1882)  £7846,  3s.  6d.,  phis  £2024  for  railway.  Pop. 
(1801)  680,  (1831)  514,  (1861)  552,  (1871)  565,  (1881) 
5n.—0rd.  Sur.,  sh.  57,  1868. 

Dunach,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kilmore  parish, 
Argyllshire,  on  the  N  shore  and  near  the  head  of  salt- 
water Loch  Feochan,  3i  miles  S  of  Oban.  It  was  pur- 
chased in  1871  for  £16,500  by  Neil  Macleod  Macdonald, 
Esq.  (b.  1836),  who  holds  463  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £409  per  annum. 

Dunachton,  a  barony  in  Alvie  parish,  Inverness-shire, 
1;|  mile  SW  of  Kincraig  station.  It  passed  by  marriage, 
about  1500,  from  the  M'Nivens  to  the  Mackintoshes; 
and  had  a  castle,  burned  in  1689,  and  never  rebuilt. 

Dunagoil,  a  headland  on  the  SW  coast  of  the  Isle  of 
Bute,  li  mile  NW  of  Garroch  Head.  Rising  to  a  lieight 
of  119  feet,  and  offering  to  the  sea  a  steep  and  rugged  ac- 
clivity, that  terminates  in  a  lofty,  cavernous  clitl,  it  pre- 
sents also  to  the  land  side  a  precipitous  ascent,  difficult 
of  access,  and  scaleable  chiefly  by  a  narrow  rugged  ledge 

401 


DUNAIDH 

at  the  southern  extremity.  Its  flattish  summit,  retain- 
ing vestiges  of  an  ancient  vitrified  fort,  supposed  to  be 
Scandinavian,  commands  an  extensive  view  along  Kil- 
brannan  Sound  and  the  Ficth  of  Clyde. 

Dunaidh,  a  large,  high,  almost  inaccessible  rock  in 
Killarrow  parish,  Islay  island,  Argyllshire,  near  the 
Mull  of  Islay.  An  old  castle  or  fort  on  it,  that  seems  to 
have  been  a  place  of  remarkable  strength,  is  now  an  utter 
ruin,  witliout  any  characters  of  architectural  interest.  _ 

Dunain  or  Dunean,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in 
Inverness  parish,  Inverness-shire,  3  miles  SW  of  Inver- 
ness town.  It  anciently  had  a  baronial  fortalice  ;  and 
to  the  N  rises  Dunain  Hill  (940  feet). 

Dun  Alastair  or  Mount  Alexander,  a  fine  modern 
Scottisli  P>aronial  mansion  in  Fortingall  parish,  Perth- 
shire, on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tummcl,  3  miles  E  of 
Kinloch  Rannoch,  and  17  W  of  Pitlochry.  Its  prede- 
cessor was  the  seat  of  the  Struan  Robertsons,  and  it  owes 
much  of  its  ornamental  planting  to  the  Jacobite  poet- 
chieftain  of  Clan  Donnachie,  Alexander  Robertson  (1670- 
1749),  the  prototype  of  Scott's  '  Baron  of  Bradwardine.' 
The  present  house  was  built  by  Gen.  Sir  John  Mac- 
donald,  K.C.B.  (1788-1866).  There  is  a  post  and  tele- 
graph office  of  Dun  Alastair.     See  Dalchosnie. 

Dunamarle.    See  Duximarle. 

Dunan,  a  bold  promontory  (100  feet)  on  the  Atlantic 
coast  of  Lochbroom  parish,  Ross-shire,  on  the  northern 
side  of  the  entrance  to  Loch  Broom,  10^  miles  NW  of 
Ullapool. 

Dunan- Aula,  a  tumulus  in  Craiguish  parish,  Argyll- 
shire, in  the  valley  of  Barbreck.  It  is  said  to  have 
been  formed  over  the  grave  of  a  Danish  prince  of  the 
name  of  Olaf  or  Olaus,  who  led  an  invading  force  into 
sanguinary  battle  with  the  natives  on  gi'ound  in  its 
vicinity  ;  and  J  mile  distant  are  a  nimiber  of  rude  monu- 
ments erected  in  memory  of  the  warriors  who  fell  in  the 
battle. 

Dunans,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Kilmodan 
parish,  A rijyllshire,  near  the  head  of  Glendaruel,  4  miles 
NXE  of  Glendaruel  House,  and  23  NNW  of  Rothesay. 

Dunaskin,  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  and  telegraph  departments,  in  Dalmellington 
parish,  AjTshire,  near  Waterside  station. 

Dunaverty,  a  quondam  castle  in  Southend  parish, 
Argvllsliire,  on  a  small  bay  of  its  own  name,  5  miles  E 
by  N  of  the  Mull  of  KintjTC,  and  lOJ  SSW  of  Campbel- 
town. Crowning  a  steep  pyramidal  peninsula  (95  feet), 
with  clifi'  descending  sheer  to  the  sea,  and  defended  on 
the  land  side  by  a  double  or  triple  rampart  and  a  fosse, 
it  appears,  both  from  its  site  and  from  its  structure,  to 
have  been  a  place  of  uncommon  strength,  and  com- 
manded the  approach  to  Scotland  at  the  narrowest  part 
of  sea  between  Scotland  and  Ireland.  An  early  strong- 
hold of  the  Lords  of  the  Isles,  said  to  have  given  shelter 
to  Robert  Bruce  at  the  ebb  of  his  fortunes,  it  was  cap- 
tured and  garrisoned  by  James  IV.  in  1493,  and  in  the 
following  year  recaptured  by  Sir  John  of  Isla,  who  hanged 
the  governor  from  the  wall,  in  the  sight  of  the  King 
and  the  fleet.  In  1647  it  capitulated  to  General  David 
Leslie,  who  put  every  mother's  son  of  its  garrison  to  the 
sword,  instigated  thereto  by  Mr  John  Nave,  his  excel- 
lent chaplain,  who  '  never  ceased  to  tempt  him  to  that 
bloodshed,  yea,  and  threatened  him  with  the  curses 
befell  Saul  for  sparing  the  Amalekites.'  The  castle  has 
been  so  completely  demolished  that  scarcely  a  vestige  of 
it  now  exists. 

Dunavourd.    See  Donavourd. 

Dunbar  (Gael,  dun-hai-r,  'fort  on  the  point'),  a  town 
and  a  parish  on  the  north-eastern  coast  of  Haddington- 
shire. A  royal  and  parliamentary  burgh,  seaport,  and 
.seat  of  considerable  traffic,  the  towTi  by  road  is  11  miles 
ENE  of  Haddington,  and  11|  ESE  of  North  Berwick, 
wliilst  by  the  North  British  railway  it  is  29;^  E  of  Edin- 
burgh, and  28J  NW  of  Berwick-upon-Tweed.  It 
.stands,  Carlyle  says,  'high  and  windy,  looking  down  over 
its  herring-boats,  over  its  grim  old  Castle  now  much 
honey-combed, — on  one  of  those  projecting  rock-pro- 
montories with  which  that  shore  is  niched  and  vandyked, 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  A  beautiful  sea  ;  good  land 
402 


DUNBAR 

too,  now  that  the  plougher  understands  his  trade  ;  a 
grim  niched  barrier  of  whinstone  sheltering  it  from  the 
chafings  and  tumblings  of  the  big  blue  German  Ocean. 
Seaward  St  Abb's  Head,  of  whinstone,  bounds  j'our 
horizon  to  the  E,  not  very  far  off;  W,  clo.se  by,  is  the  deep 
bay  and  fishy  little  village  of  Belhaven  ;  the  gloomy  Bass 
and  other  rock-islets,  and  farther  the  hills  of  Fife,  and 
foreshadows  of  the  Highlands,  are  visible  as  you  look 
seaward.  From  the  bottom  of  Belhaven  Bay  to  that  of 
the  next  sea-bight  St  Abb's-ward,  the  town  and  its 
environs  form  a  peninsula.  .  .  .  Landward,  as  you 
look  from  the  town  of  Dunbar,  there  rises,  some  short 
mile  off,  a  dusky  continent  of  barren  heath  hills,  the 
Lammermuir,  where  only  mountain  sheep  can  be  at 
home.'  To  which  need  only  be  added  that  the  town 
itself  chiefly  consists  of  a  spacious  High  Street  and  two 
smaller  parallel  streets. 

At  the  foot  or  N  end  of  the  High  Street  stands  Dunbar 
House,  within  the  old  park  of  the  castle,  exhibiting  to 
the  street  a  large  couchant  sY»hinx  with  extended  wings, 
and  to  the  sea  a  handsome  facade  with  central  circular 
portico.  Built  by  the  Messrs  Fall,  and  thereafter  a 
mansion  of  the  Earl  of  Lauderdale,  it  was  purchased  in 
1859  by  Government,  and  converted  into  a  barrack. 
The  park  around  it,  which  serves  as  the  parade-ground 
of  the  Haddingtonshire  militia,  contained,  till  its 
levelling  in  1871-72,  two  large  artificial  mounds,  sup- 
posed to  be  of  prehistoric  origin.  The  castle,  founded 
at  an  early  period  of  the  Christian  era,  but  many  times 
reconstructed  in  the  course  of  wellnigh  a  thousand 
years,  bore  for  a  long  time  prior  to  the  invention  of 
gunpowder  the  reputation  of  impregnability,  and  was 
one  of  the  grandest  fortresses  of  the  Border  counties, 
exerting  a  powerful  influence  on  the  national  history 
down  to  its  demolition  in  1568.  Its  ruins,  already 
grievously  dilapidated,  were  still  further  reduced  by  ex- 
cavations for  the  Victoria  Harbour  ;  but  Grose  has  left 
us  two  views,  and  Miller  a  full  description,  of  them 
in  their  more  perfect  condition.  Of  Miller's  description 
the  follo-ning  is  a  summary  : — The  castle  is  founded 
on  a  reef  of  trap  rocks,  which  project  into  the  sea, 
and,  in  many  places,  rise  like  bastions  thrown  up 
by  nature  to  guard  these  stern  remains  of  feudal 
grandeur  against  the  force  of  the  waves.  The  body 
of  the  buildings  measures  165  feet  from  E  to  W, 
and  in  places  207  from  N  to  S.  The  South  Battery — 
by  Grose  supposed  to  have  been  the  citadel  or  keep,  and 
now  converted  into  a  fever  hospital — is  situated  on  a 
detached  rock,  which,  72  feet  high,  and  accessible  only 
on  one  side,  is  connected  with  the  main  part  of  the  castle 
by  a  passage  of  masonry  69  feet  long.  Tlie  citadel  mea- 
sures 54  feet  by  60  within  the  walls,  and  in  shape  is 
octagonal.  Five  of  the  gun-ports,  or  so-called  'aiTow- 
holes,'  remain,  and  measure  4  feet  at  the  mouth,  but 
only  16  inches  at  the  inner  extremity.  The  buildings  are 
arched,  and  extend  8  feet  from  the  outer  walls,  and  look 
into  an  open  quadrangle,  whence  they  derive  their  light. 
About  the  middle  of  the  fortress,  part  of  a  wall  remains, 
through  which  there  is  a  doorway,  surmounted  with 
armorial  bearings,  and  leading  seemingly  to  the  prin- 
cipal apartments.  In  the  centre  are  tlie  arms  of  George, 
eleventh  Earl  of  Dunbar,  who  succeeded  his  father  in 
1369  ;  and  who,  besides  the  earldom  of  Dunbar  and 
March,  inherited  from  his  heroic  mother  the  lordship  of 
Annandale  and  the  Isle  of  Man.  The  towers  had  com- 
munication with  the  sea,  and  dip  low  in  many  places. 
NE  from  the  front  of  the  castle  is  a  large  natural  cavern 
of  black  stone,  supposed  to  have  formed  part  of  the 
dimgeon,  which,  Pennant  observes,  '  the  assistance  of  a 
little  art  had  rendered  a  secure  but  infernal  prison.' 
But  as  it  has  a  comnumication  with  a  rockj'  inlet  from 
the  sea  on  the  W,  it  is  more  likely  that  it  is  the  dark 
postern  through  which  Sir  Alexander  Ramsay  and  his 
brave  followers  entered  with  a  supply  of  j.iovisions  to 
the  besieged  in  1339.  It  was  a  i^lace  also  well  suited  for 
securing  the  boats  belonging  to  the  garrison.  The  castle 
is  built  of  a  red  stone  like  that  of  the  neighbouring 
quarries.  Part  of  the  foundation  of  a  fort,  which  was 
begun   in   1559  for  the  purpose   of  accommodating  a 


DUNBAR 

French  garrison,  may  be  traced,  extending  136  feet  in 
front  of  the  castle.  This  buikling  was,  however,  inter- 
rupted in  its  progress,  antl  demolished.  In  the  NW 
part  of  the  ruins  is  an  apartment  about  12  feet  square, 
and  nearly  inaccessible,  which  tradition  designates  Queen 
Mary's  Eoom. 

The  public  buildings  include  the  town-hall,  an  old 
edifice ;  the  assembly-rooms  (1822),  substantial  and  com- 
modious,but  badly  situated ;  the  prison,  legalised  in  1864 
for  prisoners  whose  term  does  not  exceed  10  days ;  the  corn 
exchange  (1855);  St  Catherine's  Hall  (1872),  with  ball 
or  concert  room,  and  Masonic,  Free  Gardeners',  and  Good 
Templars'  lodges  ;  the  custom-house  ;  and  the  railway 
station,  which,  standing  on  the  south-eastern  outskirts 
of  the  town,  occupies  part  of  the  site  of  Oliver  Crom- 
Avell's  camp,  and  is  a  large  Tudor  structure,  with  accom- 
modations suitable  to  its  position  nearly  midway  between 
Berwick  and  Edinburgh.  Not  far  from  the  station,  at 
the  S  end  of  the  High  Street,  stands  the  parish  church, 
on  a  spot  65  feet  above  sea-level — the  site  of  a  cruci- 
form collegiate  church,  which,  founded  in  1342  and 
1392  by  Earls  Patrick  and  George  for  a  dean,  a  vice- 
dean,  and  8  prebendaries,  measured  123  feet  from  E  to 
AV,  and  83  feet  across  the  transept.  Built  in  1819-21, 
from  designs  by  Gillespie  Graham,  at  a  cost  of  £8000, 
the  present  church  is  an  elegant  structure  in  the 
Gothic  style,  with  a  pinnacled  square  tower  108  feet 
high,  that  commands  an  extensive  view,  and  serves  as  a 
landmark  to  mariners.  The  interior,  seated  for  1800 
worshippers,  is  adorned  ^^■ith  two  stained-glass  windows, 
erected  in  1865  and  1871 ;  whilst  immediately  behind 
the  pulpit  is  a  superb  monument,  erected  to  the  memory 
of  George  Home,  Earl  of  Dunbar,  third  son  of  Alexander 
Home  of  Mandei'ston.  This  nobleman  was  in  great 
favour  with  James  VI.,  and,  holding  successively  the 
offices  of  high-treasurer  of  Scotland  and  chancellor  of 
the  exchequer  in  England,  was  raised  to  the  peerage  in 
1605.  It  was  on  him  that  the  'British  Solomon' 
chiefly  depended  for  the  restoration  of  prelacy  in  Scot- 
land ;  and,  at  the  parliament  held  at  Perth  in  1606,  he 
had  the  skill  to  carr}'  through  the  act  for  the  restoration 
of  the  estate  of  bishops.  He  died  at  "Whitehall,  29 
Jan.  1611,  'not,' says  Calderwood,  'without  suspicions 
of  poison.'  '  His  body  being  embalmed,  and  put  into  a 
coflin  of  lead,  was  sent  down  to  Scotland,  and  with  great 
solemnity  interred  in  the  collegiate  church  of  Dunbar, 
where  his  executors  erected  a  very  noble  and  magnifi- 
cent monument  of  various  coloured  marble,  with  a  statue 
as  large  as  life.'  The  monument  is  12  feet  broad  at  the 
base,  and  26  feet  high.  The  Earl  is  represented,  kneel- 
ing on  a  cushion,  in  the  attitude  of  prayer,  ^\ith  a  Bible 
open  before  him.  He  is  clad  in  armour,  which  is  seen 
under  his  knight's  robes,  and  on  his  left  arm  is  the 
badge  of  the  Order  of  the  Garter.  Two  knights  in  armour 
stand  on  each  side  as  supporters.  Above  them  are  two 
female  figures,  Justice  and  Wisdom,  betwixt  whom,  and 
immediately  above  the  cupola.  Fame  sounds  her  trum- 
pet ;  while,  on  the  opposite  side.  Peace,  with  her  olive 
branch,  sheds  a  laurel  wreath  on  his  lordship.  Imme- 
diately beneath  the  monument  is  the  vault,  wherein  the 
body  is  deposited  in  a  leaden  coffin.  Other  places  of 
worship  are  a  Free  church  (1844),  2  U.P.  churches,  with 
respectively  700  and  500  sittings,  a  Wesleyan  Methodist 
chapel,  St  Anne's  Episcopal  church,  of  iron  (1876  ;  170 
sittings),  and  the  Roman^Catholic  church  of  Our  Lady  of 
the  Waves  (1877  ;  made  a  separate  mission  in  1881). 
The  Burgh  public  school,  the  Lamer  public  school,  and 
a  Roman  Catholic  school,  with  respective  accommodation 
for  289,  325,  and  125  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  159,  185,  and  32,  and  grants  of  £134, 10s., 
£140,  15s.,  and  £27,  12s. 

The  town  has  a  head  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  departments, 
branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  the  British  Linen  Co. , 
and  t)ie  Commercial  Bank,  20  insurance  agencies,  9  hotels 
and  inns,  a  British  workman  public-house,  a  gas  com- 
pany, a  cemetery  compan}',  a  lifeboat,  bowling  and  golf 
clubs,  masonic,  foresters',  and  Good  Templars'  lodges, 
a  clothing  society,  a  total  abstinence  society,  etc.     A 


DUNBAR 

weekly  corn  market  is  held  on  Tuesday,  and  fairs  are 
held  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  February  (hiring)  and  on 
26  May  and  22  Nov.  if  a  Tuesday,  otherwise  on  the 
Tuesday  after.  Malting,  brewing,  fish-curing,  boat- 
building, brickmaking,  rope-spinning,  iron-founding,  and 
the  manufacture  of  agricultural  implements,  sailcloth, 
and  artificial  manure  are  carried  on.  A  printing-press 
was  erected  in  1795,  the  earliest  in  the  county  ;  and  from 
it  was  issued  the  first  Scotch  cheap  periodical  miscellany. 
Trade  has  greatly  fluctuated,  both  in  quantity  and  in 
kind.  The  port  had  long  a  custom-house  of  its  own, 
with  jurisdiction  from  Gullane  Point  to  the  bounds  of 
Berwick,  but  is  now  a  sub-port  of  Leith.  A  whale 
fishery  company  was  established  in  1752,  but,  having 
little  or  no  success,  was  dissolved  in  1804.  In  1830  six 
vessels  were  engaged  in  timber  and  grain  trade  with  the 
Baltic,  and  39  in  various  coasting  trade  ;  and  in  1839 
the  vessels  belonging  to  the  port  were  30  of  1495  tons, 
in  1851  only  11  of  658  tons,  this  falling-ofi'of  the  shipping 
trade  being  mainly  ascribed  to  the  opening  of  the  North 
British  railAvay.  The  small  Old  Harbour,  commenced 
with  a  grant  of  £300  from  Cromwell,  in  1820  received 
the  addition  of  a  graving-dock,  which,  proving,  how- 
ever, useless,  was  long  ago  filled  up.  The  New  or  Vic- 
toria Harbour,  formed  in  1844  at  a  cost  of  £15,762  by 
the  burgh  and  the  Fishery  Board,  and  repaired  in  1880 
at  a  further  cost  of  £2181,  covers  5  acres,  and  is  an  im- 
portant haven  of  refuge  for  vessels  between  Leith  Roads 
and  the  English  Tyne.   It  has  a  light,  visible  for  16  miles. 

Created  a  royal  burgh  by  David  II.  (1329-71),  Dunbar 
is  now  governed  by  a  provost,  3  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and 
7  councillors.  It  partly 
adopted  the  General  Police 
and  Improvement  Act  of 
Scotland  prior  to  1871  ; 
and,  with  Haddington, 
North  Berwick,  Lauder, 
and  Jedburgh,  it  returns 
a  member  to  parliament, 
the  parliamentary  consti- 
tuency numbering  464  in 
1882,  when  the  annual 
value  of  real  property 
within  the  burgh  amounted 
to  £13,887,  Is.,  whilst  the 
corporation     revenue     for 

1881  was  £884.  Pop.  (1841)  3013,  (1851)  3038,  (1861) 
3517,  (1871)  3422,  (1881)  3651.  Houses  (1881)  943  in- 
habited, 104  vacant,  3  building. 

Dunbar  is  a  place  of  hoar  antiquity.  At  it  in  678 — 
the  year  of  his  expulsion  from  his  see — the  gi'cat  St 
AVilfrid,  Bishop  of  York,  was  imprisoned  by  Ecgfrid ; 
and  in  849  it  is  said  to  have  been  burned  by  Kenneth 
mac  Alpin.  In  1072  Gospatric,  ex-earl  of  the  Northum- 
brians, and  kinsman  to  JMalcolm  Ceannmor,  obtained 
from  that  king  Dunbar  with  the  adjacent  territory  ;  and 
the  town's  history  for  360  years  centres  mainly  around 
the  sea-built  castle  of  his  descendants,  the  Earls  of 
Dunbar  and  March.  Patrick,  filth  Earl  of  Dunbar,  who 
in  1184  wedded  a  natural  daughter  of  William  the  Lyon, 
was  justiciary  of  Lothian  and  keeper  of  Berwick  ;  and 
during  his  tenure  of  these  ofliccs,  in  1214,  Henry  III. 
invaded  Scotland  with  a  powerful  army,  and,  having 
taken  the  towm  and  castle  of  Berwick,  next  laid  siege  to 
the  fortress  of  Dunbar,  but  finding  it  impregnable,  de- 
vastated the  country  up  to  the  walls  of  Haddington.  A 
marvellous  story  is  told  of  Patrick,  seventh  Earl,  who, 
during  the  troublous  minority  of  Alexander  III.,  was 
one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  English  faction.  Bower,  who 
was  born  at  Haddington  100  years  after,  relates  that,  on  11 
March  1286,  the  niglit  preceding  King  Alexander's  death, 
True  Thomas  of  Ercildoun  or  Eaklstox,  arriving  at 
the  castle  of  Dunbar,  was  jestingly  asked  by  the  Earl  if 
the  morrow  would  bring  any  noteworthy  event.  Where- 
to the  Rhymour  made  answer  mystically  :  '  Alas  for  to- 
morrow, a  daj'  of  calamity  and  misery  !  Before  the 
twelfth  hour  shall  be  heard  a  blast  so  vehement  as 
shall  exceed  those  of  every  former  period, — a  blast  that 
shall  strike  the  nations  with  amazement, — shall  humble 

doa 


Seal  of  Dunbar. 


DUNBAR 

wliat  is  proiul,  and  wliat  is  fierce  shall  level  with  the 
grouiul  !  The  sorest  wind  and  tempest  that  ever  was 
heard  of  in  Scotland  ! '  Next  day,  the  Earl  and  his 
companions  having  watched  till  the  ninth  honr  without 
observing  any  unusual  appearance  in  the  elements,  began 
to  doubt  the  powers  of  the  seer,  and,  ordering  him  into 
their  presence,  upbraided  him  as  an  impostor,  whereto 
he  replied  that  noon  was  not  yet  past.  And  scarce 
had  the  Earl  sat  down  to  the  board,  scarce  had  the  shadow 
of  the  dial  lallen  upon  the  hour  of  noon,  when  a  mes- 
senger rode  furiously  up,  who,  being  questioned,  cried : 
'  Tidings  I  bring,  but  of  a  lamentable  kind,  to  be 
deplorexl  by  the  whole  realm  of  Scotland  !  Alas,  our 
renowned  King  has  ended  his  fair  life  at  Kinghorn  !' 
'This,'  said  True  Thomas,  'this  is  the  scatheful  wind 
and  dreadful  tempest  which  shall  blow  such  calamity 
and  trouble  to  the  whole  state  of  the  whole  realm  of 
Scotland!' 

Patrick,  eighth  Earl  of  Dunbar — surnftmed  Black 
Beard — succeeded  in  1289,  and  in  the  same  year  appeared 
at  the  parliament  of  Brigham  as  Comes  de  Marehia  (Earl 
of  March  or  the  JNIerse),  being  tlie  first  of  his  line  so  de- 
signated. He  was  one  of  the  ten  competitors  for  the 
crown  of  Scotland  (1291) ;  and  when,  in  1296,  Edward 
I.  with  a  powerful  army  entered  Scotland,  the  Earl  of 
Dunbar  took  part  against  his  country.  His  Countess, 
however,  more  patriotic  than  he,  delivered  the  castle 
over  to  the  leaders  of  the  Scottish  army.  Edward  de- 
spatched the  Earl  of  Warrenne  with  12,000  men  to  the 
siege  ;  whilst  the  Scots,  sensible  of  the  importance  of 
this  fortress,  whose  capture  would  lay  their  country 
open  to  the  enemy,  hastened  with  their  main  army  of 
40,000  men,  under  the  Earls  of  Buchan,  Lennox,  and 
Mar,  to  its  relief.  Warrenne,  undaunted  by  the  superior 
numbers  of  the  Scots,  left  part  of  his  army  to  blockade 
the  castle,  and  with  the  rest  advanced  to  meet  the 
foe.  The  English  had  to  descend  into  a  valley  before 
they  could  reach  the  Scots  ;  and  as  they  descended,  the 
Scots,  observing  some  confusion  in  their  ranks,  set  up  a 
shout  of  exultation,  and,  causing  their  horns  to  be 
sounded,  rushed  down  from  their  position  of  advantage. 
But  when  Warrenne  emerged  from  the  glen,  and  ad- 
vanced undismayed  against  their  formidable  front,  the 
undisciplined  troops,  after  a  brief  resistance,  fled,  and 
were  chased  with  great  slaughter  as  far  as  Selkirk  Forest. 
Edward,  next  day,  with  the  main  body  of  the  English 
army,  came  up  to  Dunbar,  and  compelled  the  garrison  to 
capitulate.  So,  at  least,  runs  the  story,  but  Dr  Hill 
Burton  observes,  that  '  evidently  there  was  not  a  great 
battle,  \vith  organised  troops  and  known  commanders 
pitted  against  each  other'  {Hist.  Scot.,  ii.  170,  ed.  1876). 
According  to  Blind  Harry,  when  Wallace  first  undertook 
to  deliver  his  country,  the  Earl  of  Dunbar  refused  to 
attend  a  meeting  of  the  Estates  at  Perth.  Thereupon 
Wallace  encountered  Patrick  in  a  field  near  Innerwick, 
where  the  Earl  had  assembled  900  of  his  vassals,  and 
with  half  that  number  compelled  the  traitor,  after  a 
terrible  conflict,  to  retreat  to  Cockburnspath,  himself 
falling  back  on  Dunbar.  Patrick  now  went  to  Nor- 
thumberland to  crave  the  aid  of  the  Bishop  of  Durham;  but 
his  ostensible  reason,  the  Minstrel  tells  us,  was  'to  bring 
the  Bruce  free  till  his  land.'  Vessels  were  immediately 
sent  from  the  Northumbrian  Tyne  to  blockade  Dunbar, 
and  cut  off  supplies,  while  the  Earl,  with  20,000  men, 
hastened  to  retake  his  fortress.  In  the  interim  Wallace 
had  repaired  to  the  W  in  quest  of  succour,  and,  return- 
ing by  Yester,  was  joined  by  Hay  and  a  chosen  body  of 
cavalry.  With  5000  men  he  marched  to  the  support  of 
Seton,  while  the  Bishop  of  Durham,  who  had  remained 
at  Norham  with  Bmce,  came  to  the  assistance  of  Dun- 
bar, and  threw  himself  into  an  ambuscade  near  Spott- 
moor.  By  this  unexpected  movement  Wallace  was 
completely  hemmed  in,  when  Seton  fortunately  came  to 
his  relief.  The  two  armies  closed  in  mortal  strife.  The 
Scots  puslied  on  so  furiously  against  the  Southrons,  that 
they  were  just  about  to  fly,  but  Patrick  was 

'  Sa  cruel  of  intent, 
Tl)at  all  his  host  tuk  of  him  hardiment; 
Throuch  his  awue  hand  he  put  mony  to  paio.' 
404 


DUNBAR 

The  desperate  valour  of  the  Wallaces,  the  Ramsaj's,  and 
the  Grahams  was  of  little  avail  against  the  superior 
force  of  the  English  ;  so  that  when  the  ambuscade  of 
Bishop  Beck  appeared,  they  were  on  the  point  of  retir- 
ing. Dunbar  singled  out  Wallace  amidst  the  throng, 
and  wounded  him  ;  but  the  hero,  returning  the  blow 
with  sevenfold  vengeance,  clove  down  Maitland,  who 
had  thrown  himself  between.  AVallace's  horse  was  killed 
beneath  him,  and  he  was  now  on  foot  dealing  destruction 
to  his  enemies,  when 

'  Erie  Patrick  than,  that  had  gret  craft  in  war, 
With  spears  ordand  guid  Wallace  doun  to  bear.' 

But  500  resolute  warriors  rescued  their  champion,  and 
the  war-worn  armies  were  glad  to  retire.  The  same 
night  Wallace  traversed  Lammermuir  in  quest  of  the 
retreating  host,  while  Bishop  Beck,  Earl  Patrick,  and 
Bruce  fled  to  Norham.  On  his  return,  the  champion, 
still  mindful  of  the  odium  attached  to  his  name  by  the 
Earl  of  Dunbar,  — 

'  Passit,  with  monj'  awfull  men, 
On  Patrickis  land,  and  waistit  wonder  fast, 
Tnk  out  guids,  and  places  doun  thai  cast ; 
His  steads,  sevin,  that  Mete  Hamys  was  call'd, 
Wallace  gert  break  the  burly  biggings  bauld, 
Baith  in  the  Merse,  and  als  in  Lothiane, 
Except  Dunbar,  standaud  he  Icavit  nane.' 

In  1314  Edward  II.  of  England,  after  seeing  his  army 
annihilated  at  Bannockburu,  fled  with  a  body  of  horse 
towards  Berwick ;  but  Sir  James  Douglas,  with  80 
chosen  horsemen,  so  pressed  on  the  royal  fugitive,  that 
he  was  glad  to  shelter  himself  in  the  castle  of  Dunbar. 
Here  he  was  received  by  Patrick,  ninth  Earl,  'full 
gently ; '  and  hence,  in  a  fishing-boat,  he  coasted 
along  the  shore  till  he  reached  the  towers  of  Bam- 
brough.  After  this,  the  Earl  of  Dunbar  made  peace 
with  his  cousin.  King  Robert,  and  was  present  at 
Ayr  in  May  1315,  when  the  succession  to  the  Crown  of 
Scotland  was  settled  on  Bruce's  brother.  But  after 
the  defeat  at  Halidon  Hill  (1333),  Edward  at  Berwick 
once  more  received  the  fealty  of  the  Earl  of  Dunbar  with 
several  others  of  the  nobility ;  and  the  castle  of  Dunbar, 
which  had  been  dismantled  and  razed  to  the  gi'ound  on 
tlie  approach  of  the  English,  was  now  rebuilt  at  the 
Earl's  expense,  for  the  purpose  of  maintaining  an 
English  garrison. 

In  1339  the  castle  was  again  in  the  sole  possession  of 
its  lord,  and  at  the  service  of  the  Crown  of  Scotland ; 
and  then  the  Earls  of  Salisbury  and  Arundel  advanced 
at  the  head  of  a  large  English  host  to  take  it.  The 
Earl  of  Dunbar  was  absent  in  the  North  ;  so  that  the 
defence  of  his  stronghold  devolved  upon  his  Countess,  a 
lady  who,  from  her  swarthy  complexion,  was  called 
Black  Agnes,  and  who  was  daughter  to  the  great  Thomas 
Randolph,  Earl  of  Moray.  During  the  siege,  Agnes 
performed  all  the  duties  of  a  bold  and  vigilant  com- 
mander. Wlien  the  battering  engines  of  the  English 
hurled  stones  or  leaden  balls  against  the  battlements,  in 
scorn  she  would  bid  a  maid  wipe  off  with  a  clean  white 
handkerchief  the  marks  of  the  stroke ;  and  when  the 
Earl  of  Salisbury,  with  vast  labour,  brought  his  sow 
close  to  the  walls,  the  Countess  cried  : — 

•  Beware,  llontagow. 
For  farrow  shall  thy  sow  ! ' 

Whereupon  a  large  fragment  of  rock  was  hurled  from 
the  battlements,  and  crushed  the  sow  to  pieces,  with  all 
the  poor  little  pigs — as  Major  calls  them — who  were 
lurking  beneath  it.  The  following  is  Wyntoun's  rhym- 
ing narrative  of  this  most  memorable  siege  : — 

'  Schyre  William  Montague,  that  sua 
Haii  tane  the  siege,  iiriiy  gret  nia 
A  mekil  and  richt  stalwart  engine, 
And  up  smertly  gcrt  dress  it ;  syne 
They  warpit  at  the  wall  great  staiics 
Baith  hard  and  heavy  for  the  nanys. 
But  that  nane  nicrrying  to  them  made. 
And  alsua  wlien  tliey  castyne  had, 
With  a  towel,  a  damiscUe 
Arrayed  joUily  and  well, 
Wippit  the  wall,  that  they  micht  see 
To  gere  them  mair  annoyed  be  ; 


DUNBAR 


DUNBAR 


There  at  the  sieg-e  well  lanj  they  lay, 
But  there  little  vantage  got  they  ; 
For  when  they  bykkyne  walj,  or  assail, 
Thej-  tint  the  maist  of  their  travaile. 
And  as  they  bykeryd  there  a'  day, 
Of  a  great  shot  I  shall  you  say. 
For  that  they  had  of  it  ferly, 
It  here  to  you  rehearse  will  I. 
William  of  Spens  percit  a  Blasowne, 
And  thro'  three  faulds  of  Awbyrchowne, 
And  the  Actowne  through  the  third  ply 
And  the  arrow  in  the  bodie, 
While  of  that  d\-nt  there  dead  he  lay ; 
And  then  the  Montagu  gan  say ; 
"  This  is  ane  of  my  Lady's  pinnis, 
Her  amouris  thus,  till  my  heart  rinnis." 
While  that  the  siege  was  there  on  this  wise 
Men  sayis  their  fell  sair  juperdyis. 
For  Lawence  of  Prestoun,  that  then 
Haldin  ane  of  the  wichtest  men, 
That  was  in  all  Scotland  that  tide, 
A  rout  of  Inglismen  saw  ride. 
That  seemed  gude  men  and  worthy, 
And  were  arrayed  right  richly ; 
He,  with  als  few  folk,  as  they  were. 
On  them  assembled  he  there  ; 
But  at  the  assembling,  he  was  there 
Xnta  the  mouth  stricken  with  a  spear, 
liVTiile  it  up  in  the  harnys  ran ; 
rill  a  dike  he  withdrew  him  than. 
And  died ;  for  nae  mair  live  he  might. 
His  men  his  death  perceived  noucht ; 
And  with  their  faes  faucht  stoutly, 
While  they  them  vanquish'd  utterlj-. 
Thus  was  this  guid  man  brought  tiU  end. 
That  was  richt  greatly  to  commend. 
Of  ^et  wirschipe  and  gret  bownte 
His  saul  be  aye  in  saftie. 

Sir  WiUiam  als  of  Galstown 
Of  Keith,  that  was  of  gude  renown. 
Met  Richard  Talbot  by  the  way 
And  set  him  to  sa  hard  assay, 
That  to  a  kirk  he  gert  him  gae, 
And  close  there  defence  to  ma ; 
But  he  assailed  there  sae  fast. 
That  him  behov'd  treat  at  the  last. 
And  twa  thousand  pound  to  paj'. 
And  left  hostage  and  went  his  way. 

The  Montagu  was  yet  lyand. 
Sieging  Dvmbare  with  stalwart  hand 
And  twa  gallies  of  Genoa  had  he, 
For  till  assiege  it  by  the  sea. 
And  as  he  thus  assiegend  lay. 
He  was  set  intil  hard  assay ; 
For  he  had  purchased  him  covyn 
Of  ane  of  them,  that  were  therein, 
That  he  should  leave  open  the  yete. 
And  certain  term  till  ham  then  set 
To  come ;  but  they  therein  halily 
Were  wamit  of  it  pririly. 
He  came,  and  the  yete  open  fand. 
And  wald  have  gane  in  foot  steppand. 
But  John  of  Cowpland,  that  was  then 
But  a  right  poor  simple  man. 
Shut  him  off  back,  and  in  is  gane. 
The  portcullis  came  down  on  ane; 
And  spared  Montagu,  thereout 
They  cryed  with  a  sturdy  shout 
"A  Montagu  for  ever  mair  !" 
Then  with  the  folk  that  he  had  there 
He  turned  to  his  Herberj*. 
And  let  him  japji;  fullyly. 

SjTie  Alexander,  the  Ramsay, 
That  trowed  and  thought,  that  they 
That  were  assieged  in  Dunbar, 
At  great  distress  or  mischief  were ; 
That  in  an  evening  frae  the  Bass, 
AVith  a  few  folk,  that  with  him  was, 
Toward  Dunbar,  intil  a  boat. 
He  held  all  pri%il}'  his  gate ; 
And  by  the  gallies  all  slyly 
He  gat  with  his  company ; 
The  lady  and  all  that  were  there 
Of  his  coming  well  comfort  were, 
He  issued  in  the  morning  in  hy, 
And  with  the  wachis  sturdily. 
Made  ane  apart  and  stout  melle. 
And  but  tynscl  entered  he. 

While  jiontagu  was  there  lyand. 
The  King  Edward  of  England 
Purchased  him  help  and  alya\vn3. 
For  he  wald  amowe  were  in  France; 
And  for  the  Montagu  he  sends  ; 
For  he  cowth  nae  thing  till  end 
Forowtyn  him,  for  that  time  he 
Was  maist  of  his  counsel  privie 
When  he  had  heard  the  king's  biddings 
He  removed,  but  mair  dwelling. 
When  he,  I  trow,  had  Ij'ing  there 
A  quarter  of  a  year  and  mair. 

Of  this  assiege  in  their  hethj-ng 
The  English  oysid  to  make  karping 


"  I  vow  to  God,  she  makes  gret  stere 
The  Scottish  wenche  ploddere. 
Come  I  aire,  come  I  late, 
I  fand  Annot  at  the  yate." ' 

Amongst  the  nobles  who  fell  in  the  field  of  Durham, 
in  1346,  was  Thomas,  Earl  of  Moray,  brother  to  the 
heroic  Countess  of  Dunbar.  As  he  had  no  male  issue, 
Agnes  inherited  his  vast  estates ;  and  her  husband 
assumed  the  additional  title  of  Earl  of  Moray.  Besides 
the  earldom  of  Moray,  the  Earl  of  Dunbar  and  his 
Countess  obtained  the  Isle  of  JIan,  the  lordship  of 
Annandale,  the  baronies  of  ilorton  and  Tibbers  in 
Nithsdale,  of  Morthingtoun  and  Longformacus,  and  the 
manor  of  Dunse  in  Berwickshire,  with  Mochrum  in 
Galloway,  Cumnock  in  Ayrshire,  and  Blantyre  in  Clydes- 
dale. 

George,  the  tenth  Earl  of  Dunbar  and  March,  suc- 
ceeded his  father  in  1369.  From  his  vast  possessions 
he  became  one  of  the  most  powerful  nobles  of  southern 
Scotland  and  the  great  rival  of  the  Douglases.  His 
daughter  Elizabeth  was  betrothed,  in  1399,  to  David, 
Duke  of  Rothesay,  son  and  heir  to  Robert  III. ;  and  on 
the  faith  of  the  Prince,  who  had  given  a  bond  to  perform 
the  espousals,  the  Earl  had  advanced  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  her  dowry.  But  Archibald,  Earl  of  Douglas — 
surnamed  the  Grim — jealous  of  the  advantage  which  this 
marriage  promised  to  a  family  whose  j»re-eminence  in 
the  state  already  rivalled  his  ovm,  protested  against  the 
alliance,  and,  by  his  intrigues  at  court,  through  the 
Duke  of  Albany,  had  the  contract  between  Rothesay 
and  Lady  Elizabeth  cancelled,  and  his  own  daughter 
substituted  in  her  place.  Stimg  by  the  insult,  Earl 
George  •withdrew  to  England,  where  Henry  IV.  gi-anted 
him  a  pension  of  £400  during  the  continuance  of  war 
with  Scotland,  on  condition  that  he  provided  12  men- 
at-arms  and  20  archers  with  horses,  to  serve  against 
Robert.  With  a  Douglas  at  Otterbum  (1388),  he  had 
defeated  Hotspur ;  now,  with  Hotspur,  at  Homildon 
(1402),  he  defeated  a  Douglas.  At  last,  through  the 
mediation  of  "Walter  Halyburton  of  Dirleton,  a  recon- 
ciliation was  effected  in  1408,  Douglas  consenting  to 
Dunbar's  restoration,  on  condition  that  he  himself  should 
get  the  castle  of  Lochmaben  and  the  lordship  of  Annan- 
dale,  in  lieu  of  the  castle  of  Dimbar  and  earldom  of 
March,  which  he  then  possessed. 

George,  eleventh  Earl  of  Dunbar  and  March,  suc- 
ceeded his  father  in  1420,  being  then  nearly  50  years 
old.  In  1434,  he  and  his  son  Patrick  visited  England, 
The  motive  of  this  visit  to  the  English  court  is  not 
known;  but  the  slumbering  jealousies  of  James  I. — 
who  had  already  struck  a  blow  at  the  power  of  the 
barons — were  easilj'  roused ;  and  he  formed  the  bold 
plan  of  seizing  the  estates  and  fortresses  of  a  family 
which  for  ages  had  been  the  wealthiest  and  most  power- 
ful on  the  Scottish  border.  The  Earl  of  Dunbar  was 
arrested  and  imprisoned  in  the  castle  of  Edinburgh, 
while  the  Earl  of  Angus,  Chancellor  Crichton,  and  Adam 
Hepburn  of  Hailes  were  despatched  with  letters  to  the 
keeper  of  the  castle  of  Dunbar,  who  immediately  sur- 
rendered it  to  the  King's  authority.  In  a  parliament 
assembled  at  Perth  on  10  Jan.  1435,  George  was  accused 
of  holding  his  earldom  and  estates  after  their  forfeiture 
by  his  father's  treason.  In  vain  did  he  plead  that  his 
father  had  been  pardoned  and  restored  by  Albany ;  it 
was  answered,  that  a  forfeiture  incurred  for  treason  could 
not  be  pardoned  by  a  regent ;  and  the  parliament,  in 
compliance  with  this  reasoning,  adjudged,  '  that,  iu 
consequence  of  the  attainder  of  George  de  Dunbar,  for- 
merly Earl  of  March  and  Lord  of  Dunbar,  every  right 
both  of  property  and  possession  in  all  and  each  of  those 
estates  in  the  earldom  of  March  and  lordship  of  Dunbar, 
and  all  other  lands  which  he  held  of  our  said  lord  the 
King,  with  all  and  each  of  their  appurtenances,  did  and 
does  exclusively  belong  and  appertain  to  our  lord  the 
King.'  Thus  earldom  and  estates  were  vested  in  the 
Crown  ;  and  by  James  II.  the  lordship  of  Dunbar  was 
bestowed  on  his  second  son,  Alexander,  third  Duke  of 
Albany,  then  in  his  infancy. 

In  i483  Albany  gave  the  castle  of  Dunbar  into  the 

405 


DUNBAR 

hands  of  the  English  ;  a  condition  of  the  truce  with 
Henry  VII.  was,  that  its  recapture  by  the  Scots  should 
not  be  deemed  an  act  of  war.  On  the  marriage  of  Mar- 
garet of  England  with  the  King  of  Scotland  in  1502,  the 
earldom  of  Dunbar  and  lordship  of  Cockburnspath,  with 
their  dependencies,  were  assigned  as  the  jointure  of  the 
young  Queen ;  but  the  castle  of  Dunbar  is  expressly 
mentioned  as  being  reserved  by  the  King  to  himself. 
In  1516  John,  fourth  Duke  of  Albany,  placed  a  French 
garrison  here,  under  poor  De  la  Bastie ;  and  by  the 
French  it  was  held  till  James  V. ,  during  his  marriage 
sojourn  in  Paris  (1537),  expressly  bargained  for  its 
evacuation.  Three  years  later  an  English  spy  wrote 
word  how  James  '  at  least  twice  every  week  in  proper 
person,  with  a  privy  company  of  six  persons  and  himself, 
repairs  secretly  by  night,  at  the  hour  of  twelve  of  the 
clock  or  after,  to  his  said  castle  of  Dunbar,  and  there  so 
continues  sometimes  by  the  space  of  one  day,  and  some- 
times of  two  days,  and  returns  by  night  again,  and 
hath  put  all  his  ordnance  there  in  such  case  that  the 
same  are  in  full  and  perfect  readiness  to  be  removed  and 
set  forward  at  his  pleasure. ' 

The  English,  in  the  inroad  under  the  Earl  of  Hertford, 
in  1544,  after  their  return  from  the  siege  of  Lcith,  and 
after  burning  Haddington,  encamped  the  second  night 
— 26  May — near  Dunbar.  '  The  same  day,'  says  Patten, 
'  we  burnt  a  fine  town  of  the  Earl  of  Bothwell's,  called 
Haddington,  with  a  great  nunnery  and  a  house  of  friars. 
The  next  night  after  we  encamped  besides  Dunbar,  and 
there  the  Scots  gave  a  small  alarm  to  our  camp.  But 
our  watches  were  in  such  readiness  that  the)'  had  no 
vantage  there,  but  were  fain  to  recoil  without  doing  of 
any  harm.  That  night  they  looked  for  us  to  have  burnt 
the  to\vn  of  Dunbar,  which  we  deferred  till  the  morning 
at  the  dislodging  of  our  camp,  which  we  executed  b)- 
500  of  our  hackbutters,  being  backed  Avith  500  horse- 
men. And  by  reason  we  took  them  in  the  morning, 
who,  having  watched  all  night  for  our  coming  and  per- 
ceiving our  army  to  dislodge  and  depart,  thought  them- 
selves safe  of  us,  were  newly  gone  to  their  beds  ;  and  in 
their  first  sleeps  closed  in  with  fii'e,  men,  women,  and 
children,  were  suffocated  and  burnt.  That  morning 
being  very  misty  and  foggy,  we  had  perfect  knowledge 
by  our  espials  that  the  Scots  had  assembled  a  great 
power  at  a  strait  called  the  Pease.' 

In  1547,  Hertford,  now  Duke  of  Somerset,  invaded 
Scotland  with  an  army  of  15,000  men  ;  and  having 
crossed  the  pass  of  Pease,  with  '  pulTying  and  payne,'  as 
Patten  says,  demolished  the  castles  of  Dunglass,  Inner- 
wick,  and  Thornton.  '  This  done,  about  noon,  we 
marched  on,  passing  soon  after  within  the  gunshot  of 
Dunbar,  a  town  standing  longwise  upon  the  seaside, 
whereat  is  a  castle — whicli  the  Scots  count  very  strong 
— that  sent  us  divers  shots  as  we  passed,  but  all  in  vain  : 
their  horsemen  showed  themselves  in  their  fields  beside 
us,  towards  whom  Bartevil  with  his  800  men,  all 
hackbutters  on  horseback — whom  he  had  right  well  ap- 
pointed— and  John  de  Rybaud,  ^vith  divers  others,  did 
make  ;  but  no  hurt  on  either  side,  saving  that  a  man  of 
Bartevil's  slew  one  of  them  with  his  piece.  The  skirmish 
was  soon  ended.'  In  1548,  Dunbar  was  burned  by 
German  mercenaries  under  the  Earl  of  Shrewsbury,  on 
his  return  to  England  from  the  attack  on  Haddington. 

On  Monday,  11  March  1566,  just  two  days  after 
Rizzio's  assassination,  Mary  at  midnight  slipped  out 
from  Holyrood,  and,  with  Damley  and  six  or  seven 
followers,  riding  straight  to  Seton  House,  there  got  an 
escort  on  to  the  strong  fortress  of  Dunbar,  whose 
governor  '  was  amazed,  early  on  Tuesday  morning,  by 
the  arrival  of  his  king  and  queen  hungry  and  clamorous 
for  fresli  eggs  to  breakfast.'  Having  thus  seduced 
Darnley  to  abandon  his  party,  the  Queen's  next  step 
was  to  avenge  the  murder  of  her  favourite.  A  proclama- 
tion was  accordingly  issued  from  Dunbar  on  16  March, 
calling  on  the  inhabitants  of  Edinburgh,  Haddington, 
Linlithgow,  Stirling,  etc.,  to  meet  her  at  Haddington 
on  Sunday  the  17tli  ;  but  it  was  not  till  the  27th  that 
Bothwell,  with  2000  horsemen,  escorted  the  royal  pair 
back  to  Edinburgh.  Melville,  the  interim  secretary, 
406 


DUNBAR 

tells  how  at  Haddington  during  this  homeward  journey 
Mary  complained  bitterly  of  Darnley's  conduct  in  the 
late  assassination  ;  and  on  19  April,  in  parliament, 
she,  '  taking  regard  and  consideration  of  the  great 
and  manifold  good  service  done  and  performed,  not  only 
to  her  Highness's  honour,  weill,  and  estimation,  but 
also  to  the  commonweill  of  her  realm  and  lieges  thereof, 
by  James,  Earl  Bothwell,  and  that,  through  his  great 
service  foresaid,  he  not  only  frequently  put  his  person 
in  peril  and  danger  of  his  life,  but  also  super-expended 
himself,  alienated  and  mortgaged  his  livings,  lands,  and 
heritage,  in  exorbitant  suras,  whereof  he  is  not  hastily 
able  to  recover  the  same,  and  that  he,  his  friends  and 
kinsmen,  for  the  most  part,  dwell  next  adjacent  to  her 
Highness's  castle  of  Dunbar,  and  that  he  is  most  habile 
to  have  the  captaincy  and  keeping  thereof,  and  that  it 
is  necessarily  required  that  the  same  should  be  well  en- 
tertained, maintained,  and  furnished,  which  cannot  be 
done  without  some  yearly  rent,  and  profit  given  to  him 
for  that  effect,  and  also  for  reward  of  his  said  service  : 
therefore,  her  Majesty  infefted  him  and  his  heirs-male  in 
the  office  of  the  captaincy  keeping  of  the  castle  of 
Dunbar,  and  also  in  the  c^o^\^l  lands  of  Easter  and 
Wester  Barns,  the  lands  of  Newtonleyes,  Waldane,  etc. 

So  it  was  to  Dunbar  Castle  that  Bothwell  brought 
Mary  '  full  gently,'  when,  with  800  spearmen,  he  met 
her  at  Fountainbridge,  on  her  return  from  Stirling,  24 
April  1567,  ten  weeks  after  the  Kirk-of-Field  tragedy. 
The  Earl  of  Huntly,  Secretary  Maitland,  and  Sir  James 
Jlelville,  were  taken  captives  with  the  Queen,  while  the 
rest  of  her  servants  were  suffered  to  depart ;  and  Mel- 
ville himself  was  released  on  the  following  day.  Of  Both- 
well  and  Mary,  Buchanan  tells  that,  '  they  had  scarcely 
remained  ten  days  in  the  castle  of  Dunbar,  with  no 
great  distance  between  the  Queen's  chamber  and  Both- 
well's, when  they  thought  it  expedient  to  return  to  the 
castle  of  Edinburgh. ' 

The  marriage  at  Edinburgh,  the  retreat  to  BoRTH- 
wiCK,  and  the  flight  thence  in  page's  disguise  to  Cake- 
MTJIR — these  three  events  bring  Mary  once  more  to 
Dunbar,  for  the  third  and  last  time,  on  13  June.  With 
Bothwell  she  left  next  day  to  levy  forces,  and  the  day 
after  that  comes  Cakeeuky  Hill,  whence  Bothwell 
returns  alone,  to  fly  on  shipboard,  which  ends  Dunbar's 
great  three-act  tragedy. 

On  21  Sept.  1567,  four  companies  of  soldiers  were 
sent  to  take  Dunbar,  which  surrendered  to  the  Regent 
on  1  Oct.,  and  in  the  following  December  the  castle, 
which  had  so  often  sheltered  the  unfortunate  and  the 
guilty,  was  ordered  by  Parliament  to  be  destroyed.  In 
1581,  among  several  grants  excepted  b)'  James  VI.  from 
the  general  revocation  of  his  deeds  of  gift  made  through 
importunity,  mention  is  made  of  the  '  forthe  of  Dunbar 
gi-anted  to  William  Boncle,  burgess  of  Dunbar.'  This 
probably  referred  to  the  site  of  the  fortress,  and  per- 
haps some  ground  adjacent. 

On  22  July  1650,  Cromwell,  at  the  head  of  16,000 
men,  entered  Scotland ;  on  3  Sept.  he  fought  the 
Battle  of  Dunbar.  Of  which  great  battle  and  the  events 
that  led  to  it  we  have  his  o\vn  account  in  a  letter  to 
Lenthall,  Speaker  of  the  Parliament  of  England  : — 
'  We  having  tried  what  we  could  to  engage  the  enemy,  3 
or  4  miles  W  of  Edinburgh  ;  that  proving  ineffectual, 
and  our  victual  failing,  we  marched  towards  our  ships 
fur  a  recruit  of  our  want.  The  enemy  did  not  at  all 
trouble  us  in  our  rear,  but  marched  the  direct  way  to- 
wards Edinburgh  ;  and  partly  in  the  night  and  morning 
slips-through  his  whole  army,  and  quarters  himself  in  a 
posture  easy  to  interpose  between  us  and  our  victual. 
But  the  Lord  made  him  to  lose  the  opportunity.  And 
the  morning  proving  exceeding  wet  and  dark,  we  re- 
covered, by  that  time  it  was  light,  a  ground  where  they 
could  not  hinder  us  from  our  victual  ;  which  was  an 
high  act  of  the  Lord's  Providence  to  us.  We  being 
come  into  the  said  ground,  the  enemy  marched  into  the 
said  ground  we  were  last  upon  ;  having  no  mind  either 
to  strive  or  to  interpose  between  us  and  our  victuals,  or 
to  fight  ;  being  indeed  upon  this  aim  of  reducing  us  to 
a  lock,  hoping  that  the  sickness  of  our  army  would 


DUNBAR 

render  their  work  more  easy  by  the  gaining  of  time. 
Whereupon  we  marched  to  Musselburgh  to  victual,  and 
to  ship  away  our  sick  men  ;  where  we  sent  aboard  near 
500  sick  and  wounded  soldiers. 

'  And  upon  serious  consideration,  finding  our  weakness 
so  to  increase,  and  the  enemy  lying  upon  his  advantage, 
at  a  general  council  it  was  thought  fit  to  march  to  Dun- 
bar, and  there  to  fortify  the  town.  "Which,  we  thought, 
if  any  thing,  would  provoke  them  to  engage.  As  also, 
that  the  having  a  garrison  there  would  furnish  us  with 
accommodation  for  our  sick  men,  and  would  be  a  good 
magazine,  which  we  exceedingly  wanted,  being  put  to 
depend  upon  the  uncertainty  of  weather  for  landing  pro- 
visions, which  many  times  cannot  be  done,  though  the 
being  of  the  whole  army  lay  upon  it ;  all  the  coasts 
from  Berwick  to  Leith  not  having  one  good  harbour. 
As  also,  to  lie  more  conveniently  to  receive  our  recruits 
of  horse  and  foot  from  Berwick. 

'  Having  these  considerations,  upon  Saturday,  the 
30th  of  August,  we  marched  from  Musselburgh  to  Had- 
dington. Where,  by  that  time  we  had  got  the  van- 
brigade  of  our  horse,  and  our  foot  and  train,  into  their 
quarters,  the  enemy  had  marched  with  that  exceeding 
expedition  that  they  fell  upon  the  rear-forlorn  of  our 
horse,  and  put  it  in  some  disorder  ;  and  indeed  had  like 
to  have  engaged  our  rear-brigade  of  horse  with  their 
whole  army,  had  not  the  Lord,  by  His  Providence,  put 
a  cloud  over  the  moon,  thereby  giving  us  opportunity  to 
draw  ofl'  those  horse  to  the  rest  of  the  arm}\  Which 
accordingly  was  done  without  any  loss,  save  of  three  or 
fom-  of  our  afore-mentioned  forlorn  ;  wherein  the  enemy 
— as  we  believe — received  more  loss. 

'  The  army  being  put  into  a  reasonable  secure  posture, 
towards  midnight  the  enemy  attempted  our  quarters,  on 
the  W  end  of  Haddington  ;  but  through  the  goodness 
of  God  we  repulsed  them.  The  next  morning  we  drew 
into  an  open  field,  on  the  S  side  of  Haddington  ;  we  not 
judging  it  safe  for  us  to  draw  to  the  enemy  upon  his 
own  ground,  he  being  prej^ossessed  thereof;  but  rather 
drew  back,  to  give  him  way  to  come  to  us,  if  he  had  so 
thought  fit.  And  having  waited  about  the  space  of  four 
or  five  hours,  to  see  if  he  would  come  to  us,  and  not 
finding  any  inclination  in  the  enemy  so  to  do,  we 
resolved  to  go,  according  to  our  first  intendment,  to 
Dunbar. 

'  By  that  time  we  had  marched  three  or  four  miles,  we 
saw  some  bodies  of  the  enemy's  horse  draw  out  of  their 
quarters  ;  and  by  that  time  our  carriages  were  gotten 
near  Dunbar,  their  whole  army  was  upon  their  march 
after  us.  And,  indeed,  our  drawing  back  in  this  man- 
ner with  the  addition  of  three  new  regiments  added  to 
th'jm,  did  much  heighten  their  confidence,  if  not  pre- 
sumption and  arrogancy.  The  enemy  that  night,  we 
perceived,  gatheretl  towards  the  hills,  labouring  to 
make  a  perfect  interposition  between  us  and  Berwick. 
And  having  in  this  posture  a  great  advantage,  through 
his  better  knowledge  of  the  country  he  effected  it,  by 
sending  a  considerable  party  to  the  strait  pass  at  Cop- 
perspath  [Cockburnspath],  where  ten  men  to  hinder, 
are  better  than  forty  to  make  their  way.  And  truly 
this  was  an  exigent  to  us,  wherewith  the  enemy  re- 
proached us  ;  as  with  that  condition  the  Parliament's 
army  was  in,  when  it  made  its  hard  conditions  with  the 
King  in  Cornwall.  By  some  reports  that  have  come  to 
us,  they  had  disposed  of  us,  and  of  their  business,  in 
sufficient  revenge  and  wrath  towards  our  persons,  and 
had  swallowed  up  the  poor  interest  of  England,  believing 
that  their  army  and  their  king  would  have  marched  to 
London  without  any  interruption  ;  it  being  told  us,  we 
know  not  how  truly,  by  a  prisoner  we  took  the  night 
before  the  fight,  that  tlieir  king  was  very  suddenly  to 
come  amongst  them,  with  those  English  they  allowed 
to  be  about  him.  But  in  what  they  were  thus  lifted  up, 
the  Lord  was  above  them. 

'  The  enemy  lying  in  the  posture  before  mentioned, 
having  those  advantages  ;  we  lay  very  near  him,  being 
sensible  of  our  disadvantages  ;  having  some  weakness  of 
flesh,  but  yet  consolation  and  sujjport  from  the  Lord 
Himself  to  our  poor  weak  faith,  wherein  I  believe  not  a 


DUNBAR 

few  amongst  us  stand  :  That  because  of  their  numbers, 
because  of  their  advantages,  because  of  their  confidence, 
because  of  our  weakness,  because  of  our  strait,  we  were 
in  the  Mount,  and  in  the  Mount  the  Lord  would  be 
seen  ;  and  that  He  would  find  out  a  M^ay  of  deliverance 
and  salvation  for  us ;  and  indeed  we  had  our  consola- 
tions and  our  hopes. 

*  Upon  Monday  evening — the  enemy's  whole  numbers 
were  very  great,  as  we  heard,  about  6000  horse  and 
16,000  foot  at  least  ;  ours  drawn  down,  as  to  sound  men, 
to  about  7500  foot  and  3500  horse, — upon  Monday 
evening,  the  enemy  drew  down  to  the  right  wing  aliout 
two-thirds  of  their  left  wing  of  horse.  To  the  right 
wing ;  shogging  also  their  foot  and  train  much  to  the 
right,  causing  their  right  wing  of  horse  to  edge  down 
towards  the  sea.  We  could  not  well  imagine  but  that 
the  enemy  intended  to  attempt  upon  us,  or  to  place 
themselves  in  a  more  exact  position  of  interposition. 
The  Major-General  and  myself  coming  to  the  Earl 
Roxburgh's  house  [Broxmouth],  and  observing  this 
posture,  I  told  him  I  thought  it  did  give  us  an  oppor- 
tunity and  advantage  to  attempt  upon  the  enemy.  To 
which  he  immediately  replied,  that  he  had  thought  to 
have  said  the  same  thing  to  me.  So  that  it  pleased  the 
Lord  to  set  this  apprehension  upon  both  of  our  hearts  at 
the  same  instant.  We  called  for  Colonel  !Monk,  and 
showed  him  the  thing  ;  and  coming  to  our  quarters  at 
night,  and  demonstrating  our  apprehensions  to  some  of 
the  colonels,  they  also  cheerfully  concurred. 

'  We  resolved,  therefore,  to  put  our  business  into  this 
posture :  That  six  regiments  of  horse  and  three  regiments 
and  a  half  of  foot  should  march  in  the  van  ;  and  that  the 
Major-General,  the  Lieutenant-General  of  the  horse,  and 
the  Commissary-General,  and  Colonel  Monk  to  com- 
mand the  brigade  of  foot,  should  lead  on  the  business  ; 
and  that  Colonel  Pride's  brigade.  Colonel  Overton's 
brigade,  and  the  remaining  two  regiments  of  horse, 
should  bring  up  the  cannon  and  rear.  The  time  of 
falling-on  to  be  by  break  of  day  ;  but,  through  some 
delaj^s,  it  proved  not  to  be  so  ;  not  till  six  o'clock  in  the 
morning. 

'  The  enemy's  word  was  The  Covenant,  which  it  had 
been  for  diver  days.  Ours,  The  Lord  of  Hosts.  The 
Major-General,  Lieutenant-General  Fleetwood,  and  Com- 
missary-General W^halley,  and  Colonel  Twisleton,  gave 
the  onset ;  the  enemy  being  in  a  very  good  posture  to 
receive  them,  having  the  advantage  of  their  cannon  and 
foot  against  our  horse.  Before  our  foot  could  come  up, 
the  enemy  made  a  gallant  resistance,  and  there  was  a 
very  hot  dispute  at  sword's  point  between  our  horse  and 
theirs.  Our  first  foot,  after  they  had  discharged  their 
duty,  being  overpowered  with  the  enemy,  received  some 
repulse,  which  they  soon  recovered.  For  my  own  regi- 
ment, under  the  command  of  Lieutenant-Colonel  Golt'e, 
and  my  Major,  White,  did  come  seasonably  in  ;  and,  at 
the  push  of  pike,  did  repel  the  stoutest  regiment  the 
enemy  had  there,  merely  with  the  courage  the  Lord  was 
pleased  to  give.  Which  proved  a  great  amazement  to 
the  residue  of  their  foot ;  this  being  the  first  action  be- 
tween the  foot.  The  horse  in  the  meantime  did,  with  a 
great  deal  of  courage  and  spirit,  beat  back  all  opposition, 
charging  through  the  bodies  of  the  enemy's  horse,  and 
of  their  foot  ;  who  were,  after  the  first  repulse  given, 
made  by  the  Lord  of  Hosts  as  stubble  to  their  swords. 
Indeed,  I  believe  I  may  speak  it  without  partiality, 
both  your  chief  commanders  and  others  in  their  several 
places,  and  soldiers  also,  were  acted  [actuated]  with  as 
much  courage  as  ever  hath  been  seen  in  any  action  since 
this  war.  I  know  they  look  to  be  named ;  and  there- 
fore I  forbear  particulars. 

'  The  best  of  the  enemy's  horse  being  broken  through 
and  through  in  less  than  an  hour's  dispute,  their  whole 
army  being  put  into  confusion,  it  became  a  total  rout  ; 
our  men  liaving  the  chase  and  execution  of  them  near 
eight  miles.  We  believe  that  upon  the  place  and  near 
about  it  were  about  three  thousand  felain.  Prisoners  taken: 
of  their  officers,  you  have  this  enclosed  list  ;  of  j)rivate 
soldiers,  near  10,000.  The  whole  baggage  and  train  taken; 
wherein  was  good  store  of  match,  powder,  and  bullet; 

407 


DUNBAR 


DUNBARNY 


all  their  artillcrj',  great  and  small — thirty  gnns.  "We 
are  confident  they  have  left  behind  them  not  less  than 
fifteen  thousand  arms.  I  have  already  brought  in  to  me 
near  two  hundred  colours,  which  I  herewith  send  you. 
AVhat  officers  of  theirs  of  quality  are  killed,  we  yet  can- 
not learn  ;  but  yet  surely  divers  are  ;  and  many  men  of 
quality  are  mortally  wounded,  as  Colonel  Lumsden,  the 
Lord  Libberton,  and  others.  And,  that  which  is  no 
small  addition,  I  do  not  believe  we  have  lost  20  men. 
Not  one  commissioned  officer  slain  as  I  hear  of,  save  one 
cornet,  and  Major  Rooksby,  since  dead  of  his  wounds  ; 
and  not  many  mortally  wounded.  Colonel  "Wlialley 
only  cut  in  the  hand-wrist,  and  his  horse  (twice  shot) 
killed  under  him  ;  but  he  well  recovered  another  horse, 
and  went  on  in  the  chase.  Thus  you  have  the  prospect 
of  one  of  the  most  signal  mercies  God  hath  done  for 
England  and  His  people,  this  war'  (Carlyle's  Cromwell* 
part  vi.). 

The  subsequent  history  of  Dunbar  presents  nothing  very 
memorable.  At  it  Cope  landed  his  troops  from  Aberdeen, 
16  to  18  Sept,  1745— the  week  of  the  battle  of  Preston- 
pans  In  1779,  Paul  Jones's  sipiadron  hovered  a  brief 
space  in  front  of  the  town,  and,  in  1781,  Captain  G.  Fall, 
another  American  privateer,  threatened  a  descent,  but 
sheered  off  on  perceiving  preparations  making  for  giving 
him  a  warm  reception.  By  a  strange  coincidence  the 
provost  in  the  latter  year  was  Robert  Fall,  member  of  a 
t'amil)'  that,  from  the  middle  of  the  17th  to  the  close  of 
the  18th  century,  figures  largely  in  the  annals  of  Dunbar 
as  one  of  the  chief  merchant  houses  in  the  kingdom. 
The  Falls  of  Dunbar  married  into  the  Scottish  baronetcy, 
and  gave  a  Jacobite  member  to  Parliament ;  yet  Mr 
Simson  adduces  many  reasons  for  believing  that  they 
came  of  the  selfsame  stock  as  the  Gipsy  Faas  of  Kirk- 
Yetholm — Faa  being  tlie  form  under  which  we  first  meet 
with  the  name  at  Dunbar,  in  the  Rev.  J.  Blackadder's 
Memoir,  under  date  1669.  When  on  22  May  1787 
Robert  Burns  arrived  at  '  this  neat  little  town,  riding 

like  the  devil,  and  accompanied  by  Miss ,  mounted 

on  an  old  carthorse,  huge  and  lean  as  a  house,  herself  as 
fine  as  hands  could  make  her,  in  cream-coloured  riding- 
clothes,  hat  and  feather,  etc' — he  '  dined  with  Provost 
Fall,  an  eminent  merchant  (Mrs  F.  a  genius  in  paint- 
ing).' AVhich  is  about  the  last  that  we  hear  of  the  Falls 
at  Dunbar,  where,  in  1835,  there  was  'not  even  a  stone 
to  tell  where  they  lie.'  At  York  there  are  Falls  at  the 
present  day,  who  likewise  lay  claim  to  Romani  origin 
(Simson' s  History  of  the  Gipsies,  2d  ed.,  New  York,  1878 ; 
and  Notes  and  Queries,  1881). 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  of  Belhaven 
and  East  and  West  Baiixs,  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by 
the  German  Ocean,  SE  by  Innerwick,  S  by  Spott  and 
Stenton,  W  by  Prestonkirk,  and  NW  by  Whitekirk- 
Tynninghame.  Its  utmost  lengtli,  from  W  by  N  to  E 
by  S,  is  7^  miles ;  its  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  varies  be- 
tween 24  furlongs  and  3  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  8803 
acres,  of  which  1284J  are  foreshore  and  214  water. 
At  the  western  boundary  is  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Tyne  ;  Dry  Burn  winds  i^  miles  east-north-eastward  to 
the  sea  along  all  the  Innerwick  border  ;  and  to  the  sea 
through  the  interior  flow  Spott  Burn  and  Beil  Water. 
The  coast  to  the  W,  indented  by  Tyniiinghame  and 
Belhaven  Bays,  presents  a  fine  sandy  beach  ;  but  east- 
ward from  the  mouth  of  Beil  Water  is  bold  and  rocky, 
'  niclied  and  vandyked '  with  headlands  of  no  great 
height,  j'et  here  and  tlierc  jagged  and  savage  in  their 
way.  The  interior  exliiliits  a  pleasant  diversity  of  hill 
and  dale,  rising  gradually  towards  the  Lammermuir 
Hills,  and  commanding  a  prospect  of  seaboard  and  ocean 
from  St  Abb's  Head  to  the  Hass  and  the  hills  of  Fife. 
The  liighest  points  are  Biiunt  Hill  (737  feet)  and  Doon 
Hill  (582),  these  rising  3  and  ^  miles  SSE  of  the  town, 
the  latter  on  the  boundary  with  Spott ;  since  Dunbar 

*  John  Aubrey,  in  his  Miscellanies  (1(596),  records  a  circura- 
Btance  unnoticed  Ijy  Carlyle.  'One  tlint  I  l<new,'  he  says,  '  that 
was  at  the  Battle  of  Dunliar,  told  me  tliat  Oliver  was  carried  on 
with  a  Divine  Impulse ;  he  did  lau^rh  sn  excessively  as  if  he  had 
>)cen  drunk  ;  his  Eyes  sparkled  with  S|>irits.  He  obtained  a  great 
Victory  ;  but  the  Action  was  said  to  be 
rrudence.' 
408 


contrary  to  Uumaii 


Common,  Q\  miles  SSW  of  the  town,  though  sometimes 
regarded  as  part  of  the  parish,  is  really  divided  among 
Spott,  Stenton,  and  Whittinghame.  A  part  of  the 
Lammerrauirs,  with  drainage  towards  the  Berwickshire 
"\\niitadder,  it  attains  at  Clints  Dod  a  height  of  1307 
feet.  The  rocks  of  the  parish  exhibit  interesting 
]diases  both  of  eruptive  and  of  secondary  formations. 
Coal  occurs,  but  not  of  sufficient  thickness  to  bo 
worked  ;  excellent  grey  limestone  has  long  been  quar- 
ried ;  and  red  sandstone,  more  or  less  compact,  is 
plentiful.  The  soil  is  partly  a  fertile  loam,  partly  clay, 
partly  a  light  rich  mould  ;  and  the  entire  area,  with 
slight  exception,  is  under  tillage.  A  rough  tombstone, 
rudely  inscribed  with  the  name  of  Sir  AVilliam  Douglas, 
is  in  the  vicinity  of  Broxmouth  Iloirse ;  and  in  Brox- 
mouth  grounds  is  a  small  mound,  crowned  with  a  cedar 
of  Lebanon,  and  known  as  Cromwell's  Mount,  since 
from  it  Cromwell  beheld  the  descent  of  Leslie's  army 
from  Doon  Hill.  Three  ancient  chapels  stood  at  the 
villages  of  Belton,  Hedderwick,  and  Pinkerton ;  but 
both  they  and  the  villages  have  long  been  extinct.  A 
monastery  of  Red  or  Trinity  Friars  was  founded  at  the 
town,  in  1218,  by  Patrick,  fifth  Earl  of  Dunbar,  and  has 
bequeathed  to  its  site  the  name  of  Friar's  Croft  ;  and 
by  Patrick,  seventh  Earl,  a  monastery  of  AVhite  or  Car- 
melite Friars  was  founded  in  1263  near  the  town,  it  is 
thought  on  ground  where  some  Roman  medals  were 
exhumed  at  the  forming  of  a  reservoir.  A  Mcdson  Dieu 
of  unknown  date,  stood  at  the  head  of  High  Street. 
Mansions  are  Broxmouth  Park,  Lochend  House,  Bel- 
ton  House,  Hedderwick  House,  and  Winterfield  House  ; 
and  9  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  12  of  between  £100  and  £500,  31  of  from  £50 
to  £100,  and  81  of  from  £20  to  £50.  The  seat  of  a 
presbytery  in  the  synod  of  Lothian  and  Twceddale,  this 
parish  is  divided  ecclesiastically  into  Dunbar  proper  and 
Belhaven,  the  former  a  living  worth  £443.  Tliree 
schools  under  the  landward  board — Belhaven,  East 
Barns,  and  AVest  Barns — with  respective  accommodation 
for  122,  107,  and  200  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  53,  122,  and  102,  and  grants  of  £37,  3s., 
£90,  lis.,  and  £82.  Valuation  (1843)  £27,701,  (1882) 
£37,635, 16s.  4d.  Pop.  of  civil  parish  (1801)  3951,  (1821) 
5272,  an  increase  due  to  the  cotton  factory  of  Belhaven 
1815-23  ;  (1831)  4735,  (1861)  4944,  (187l')  4982,  (1881) 
5393  ;  of  ecclesiastical  parish  (1881)  i0i9.—Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  33,  1863. 

The  presbytery  of  DuNBAR  comprises  the  old  parishes 
of  Cockburuspath,  Dunbar,  Innerwick,  Oldhanistocks, 
Prestonkirk,  Spott,  Stenton,  Whittinghame,  and  White- 
kirk-Tynninghame,  and  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of  Bel- 
haven. Pop.  (1871)  12,432,  (1881),  12,663,  of  whom 
2545  were  communicants  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in 
1878.  See  James  Miller's  History  of  Dunbar  (Dunb. 
1830  ;   new  ed.  1859). 

Dunbamy,  a  parish  of  SE  Perthshire,  containing  the 
post-office  village  of  Bridge  of  Eaiin,  with  a  station  on 
the  North  British,  3f  miles  SSE  of  Perth,  and  also,  1 
mile  S  by  W,  the  village  of  Kintillo.  It  is  bounded 
NW  by  the  Craigend  section  of  Forteviot,  N  by  Perth, 
NE  by  Rhynd,  E  by  Abcrnethy,  SE  by  Dron,  and  W 
by  the  Gleneanihill  section  of  Dron  and  by  Forgandenny. 
Its  greatest  length,  from  NNE  to  SSW,  is  4J  miles  ;  its 
greatest  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is  4  miles ;  and  its 
area  is  4136J  acres,  of  which  76h  are  water.  Tlic  river 
Eaiin  winds  5|  miles  east-by-soutliward  along  tlio  For- 
teviot and  Abernethy  borders  and  tlirough  the  interior 
between  banks  of  singular  beauty ;  and  from  its  low-lying 
valley  the  surface  rises  northward  to  725  feet  on  richly- 
wooded  MoxcREiFFE,  southward  to  800  on  the  western 
.slojKs  of  Dron  Hill.  Trap  and  Old  Red  sandstone  are 
the  prevailing  rocks,  and  botli  have  been  largely  quarried. 
Five  mineral  springs  at  Pitcaitiily  enjoy  a  higli  medi- 
cinal repute,  and  attracted  so  many  invalids  and  other 
visitors,  as  to  occasion  the  erection  of  Bridge  of  Earn 
village,  and  of  hotels  both  there  and  at  Pitcaithly.  The 
soil  of  the  arable  lands  is  variously  till,  clay,  loam,  and 
alluvium,  and  has  been  higlily  improved.  lUustrious 
natives  or  residents  were  Robert   Craigic  (1685-1760), 


DUNBARROW 

Lord  President  of  the  Court  of  Session  ;  Robert  Craigie, 
Lord  Craigie  (1754-1S34),  also  an  eminent  judge  ;  Sir 
Francis  Grant  (1S03-78),  president  of  the  Royal  Aca- 
demy ;  and  his  brother,  General  Sir  James  Hope  Grant, 
G.C.B.  (1808-75).  Mansions  are  Ballexdrick,  Kil- 
GRASTON,  MoNCREiFFE,  Dunbarny,  and  Kinmonth,  the 
two  last  being  2  miles  W  by  N,  and  3  miles  NE,  of 
Bridge  of  Earn  ;  and  5  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  3  of  between  £100  and  £500, 
3  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  12  of  from  £20  to  £50. 
Dunbarny  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Perth  and  synod  of 
Perth  and  Stirling;  the  living  is  worth  £300.  The 
ancient  church  stood  at  the  extinct  village  of  Dunbarny, 
close  to  Dunbarny  House ;  its  successor  was  built  near 
Bridge  of  Earn  in  1684  ;  and  a  few  yards  E  of  the  site 
of  this  is  the  present  church  (1787 ;  650  sittings). 
Chapels  subordinate  to  the  ancient  church  stood  at 
Moncreiffe  and  at  Kirkpottie  in  Dron  ;  and  that  at  Mon- 
creilfe  continues  to  be  the  burying-place  of  the  Mon- 
creiffe family.  There  is  also  a  Free  church  ;  and  a 
public  school,  erected  in  1873,  with  accommodation  for 
180  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  106, 
and  a  grant  of  £104,  5s.  Valuation  (1882)  £8429, 
12s.  7d.  Pop.  (1801)  1066,  (1831)  1162,  (1851)  1056, 
(1871)  913,  (1881)  756.— Orel  Sur.,  sh.  48,  1868. 

Dunbarrow,  a  detached  south-eastern  section  of  Dun- 
nichen  parish,  Forfarshire,  bounded  on  the  SE  by  Car- 
myllie,  and  on  all  other  sides  by  Kirkden,  a  strip  of 
which,  hardly  a  furlong  broad  at  the  narrowest,  separates 
it  from  Dunnichen  proper.  With  utmost  length  and 
breadth  of  IJ  and  1  mile,  it  rises  in  all  directions  to  a 
hill-summit  (500  feet)  of  its  own  name,  on  which  are 
some  vestiges  of  an  ancient  fort. 

Dunbarton.     See  Dumbarton. 

Dunbeath,  a  village,  a  bay,  and  a  stream  of  Latheron 
parish,  Caithness.  The  village  stands  on  the  left  bank 
of  Dunbeath  Water,  h  mile  above  its  mouth,  6:^  miles 
NNE  of  Berriedale,  and  20  SW  of  Wick,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank, 
and  telegraph  departments.  An  ancient  place,  the  kirk- 
town  once  of  a  parish  of  its  own  name,  it  possesses  an 
inn  and  a  public  school ;  and  fairs  are  held  at  it  on  the 
third  Tuesda}'  of  August  and  November.  Dunbeath 
Castle,  crowning  a  peninsulated  sea-cliff,  1  mile  S  of  the 
village,  is  partly  a  fine  modern  mansion,  partly  an 
ancient  baronial  fortalice,  which,  in  April  1650,  was 
captured  and  garrisoned  by  General  Hurry  for  the  Mar- 
quis of  Montrose.  Its  owner,  Wm.  Sinclair-Thomson- 
Sinclair,  Esq.  of  Freswick  (b.  1844  ;  sue.  1876),  holds 
57,757  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £6207  per  annum. 
The  bay  is  small,  and  has  no  capacity  for  shipping, 
but  possesses  value  for  its  salmon  fisheries,  and  as  an 
excellent  station  for  herring-fishing.  Dunbeath  Water, 
issuing  from  little  Loch  Braigh  na  h-Aibhne  (980  feet), 
runs  14|  miles  north-eastward  and  east-south-eastward 
along  a  picturesque  strath,  and  falls  into  the  northern 
curve  of  the  bay.— Ort^.  Sur.,  shs.  110,  109,  1877-78. 

Dun-Bhail-an-Righ.     See  Beregonium. 

Dunblane  (Gael.  '  hill  of  Blane '),  a  town  and  a  parish 
of  Strathallan,  S  Perthshire.  The  town  stands,  250  feet 
above  sea-level,  on  the  left  bank  of  Allan  Water,  which 
here  is  spanned  by  a  one -arch  bridge,  built  early  in  the 
15th  century  by  Bishop  Finlay  Dermoch  ;  its  station  on 
the  Scottish  Central  section  of  the  Caledonian,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Callander  line,  is  11  miles  ESE  of  Cal- 
lander, 28  SW  of  Perth,  5  N  by  W  of  Stirling,  41  i 
WNW  of  Edinburgh,  and  34|  NE  of  Glasgow.  An 
ancient  place,  it  was  burned  under  Kenneth  mac  Alpin 
(844-60)  by  Britons  of  Strathclyde,  and  in  912  was 
ravaged  by  Danish  pirates,  headed  by  Regnwald.  But 
its  church  dates  back  to  even  remoter  times,  to  the  7th 
century,  and  seems  to  have  been  an  offshoot  of  Kingarth 
in  Bute,  for  its  founder  was  St  Blane,  of  the  race  of  the 
Irish  Picts,  and  bishop  of  that  church  of  Kingarth  which 
Cathanhis  uncle  had  founded.  The  bishopric  of  Dunl)lane 
was  one  of  the  latest  established  by  David  I.,  in  1150 
or  somewhat  earlier ;  among  its  bishops  was  Maurice, 
who,  as  Bruce's  chaplain  and  abbot  of  Inchaffray,  had 
blessed  the  Scotch  host  at  Dannockburn.     Long  after, 


DUNBLANE 

in  post-Reformation  days,  the  saintly  Robert  Leighton 
(1613-84)  chose  it  as  the  poorest  and  smallest  of  Scot- 
land's sees,  and  held  it  for  nine  }'ears  till  his  translation 
in  1670  to  the  archbishopric  of  Glasgow.  In  him  Dun- 
blane's chief  interest  is  centred  ;  and  his  memory  lives 
in  the  Leightonian  Library,  the  Bishop's  Well,  and  the 
Bishop's  Walk,  a  pleasant  path  leading  southward  not 
far  from  the  river,  and  overshadowed  Ijy  venerable 
beech  trees.  Then,  too,  there  is  Tannahill's  song, 
Jessie,  the  Flower  o'  Dumblane,  recalled  when  the  sun 
goes  down  behind  Ben  Lomond  ;  or  one  may  remember 
that  Prince  Charles  Edward  held  a  levee  in  Balhaldie 
House,  now  an  old  ruinous  mansion,  on  11  Sept.  1745, 
and  that  the  Queen  drove  through  Dunblane  on  13 
Sept.  1844.  The  title  of  Viscount  Dunblane  in  the 
peerage  of  Scotland,  conferred  in  1675  on  Peregrine 
Osborne,  who  in  1712  succeeded  his  father  as  Dnke  of 
Leeds,  is  now  borne  by  his  sixth  descendant,  George- 
Godolphin  Osborne,  ninth  Duke  of  Leeds  and  eighth  Vis- 
count Dunblane  (b.  1828  ;  sue.  1872). 

The  town  itself,  though  ranking  as  a  city,  is  townlike 
in  neither  aspect  nor  extent.  Richard  Franck,  indeed, 
who  travelled  in  Scotland  about  the  year  1658,  calls  it 
'  dirty  Dunblane,'  and  adds,  '  Let  us  pass  by  it,  and  not 
cumber  our  discourse  with  so  inconsiderable  a  corpora- 
tion.' But  to-day  the  worst  charges  to  be  brought 
against  Dunblane  are  that  its  streets  are  narrow,  its 
houses  old-fashioned — light  enough  charges,  too,  when 
counterweighed  by  charming  surroundings,  a  brand-new 
hydropathic  establishment,  a  good  many  handsome  villas, 
and  various  public  edifices  of  more  or  less  redeem- 
ing character.  Foremost,  of  course,  comes  the  prison, 
which,  erected  in  1842  on  the  site  of  Strathallan  Castle, 
had  its  front  part  converted  in  1882  into  commodious 
police  barracks,  whilst  a  new  wing  to  the  rear  contains 
10  cells  for  prisoners  whose  term  does  not  exceed  a 
fortnight.  The  neighbouring  courthouse  was  built  in 
1869,  with  aid  of  £3973  from  Government.  The 
Leightonian  Library  is  also  modern,  a  small  house, 
the  marble  tablet  on  whose  front  bears  the  Bishop's 
arms  and  the  inscription  'Bibliotheca  Leightoniana ; ' 
it  contains  his  be(]uest  of  1400  volumes  for  the  use 
of  the  clergy  of  the  diocese,  a  number  since  con- 
siderably added  to,  and  serves  now  as  a  public  read- 
ing-room. On  a  rising  knoll  beyond  the  cathedral  is  a 
mineral  spring,  which,  according  to  analysis  made  in 
1873,  contains  19 '200  grains  of  common  salt  to  14 '400 
of  muriate  of  lime,  2 '800  of  sulphate  of  lime,  4 '00  of 
carbonate  of  lime,  and  1'36  of  oxide  of  iron.  This 
spring  having  been  acquired  by  a  limited  company,  a 
fine  hydropathic  establishment,  capable  of  accommodat- 
ing 200  visitors,  was  built  (1875-76),  at  a  cost  of  £22,000, 
on  grounds  18  acres  in  extent.  It  commands  a  magni- 
ficent prospect  of  the  Grampians,  and,  designed  by 
Messrs  Peddle  &  Kinnear,  is  English  in  style,  with 
central  clock-tower,  projecting  wings,  a  recreation  room 
40  yards  long,  billiard  room,  etc.  The  town  has, 
besides,  2  hotels,  a  post  ofiice,  with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  departments,  branches 
of  the  Bank  of  Scotland  and  the  Union  Bank,  a  local 
savings'  bank,  13  insurance  agencies,  gas-works,  a  public 
reading  and  amusement  room,  2  curling  clubs,  a  volun- 
teer corps,  a  building  company,  and  an  agricultural 
society.  "Thursday  is  market-day  ;  and  fairs  are  held 
on  the  first  Wednesday  in  March  o.  s.,  the  Tuesday 
after  26  May,  10  August  o.  s.,  and  the  first  Tuesday  in 
November  o.  s.  Handloom  weaving  is  almost  wholly 
extinct,  but  employment  is  given  to  a  number  of  the 
townsfolk  by  the  wool  and  worsted  mills  of  Keir  and 
Springbank. 

Of  Dunblane  Cathedral  Archbishop  Laud  remarked 
in  1633  that  '  this  was  a  goodly  church  before  the  De- 
formation.' It  consists  of  a  ruinous  aisled,  eight-bayed 
nave  (130  by  58  feet,  and  50  high),  a  square  tower,  and 
an  aisleless  choir  (80  by  30  feet),  with  a  chapter-house, 
sacristy,  or  lady-chapel  to  the  N.  The  four  lower  stages 
of  the  tower,  which  stands  awkwardly  into  the  S  aisle  of 
the  nave,  are  all  that  remains  of  King  David's  Norman 
cathedral,  and  exhibit  a  shafted  N  doorway,  a  S W  stair- 

409 


DUNBLANE 

case,  and  a  rib-vaulted  basement  story  ;  to  them  tw 
more  have  been  added,  of  Second  Pointed  date,  ending  in 
a  parapet  and  a  low  wooden  spire,  the  height  to  whose 
top  is  128  feet.  The  nave  is  almost  entirely  pure  First 
Pointed,  the  work  apparently  of  Bishop  Clement  (1233- 
58),  who  at  Rome  in  person  represented  to  the  Pope 
that,  the  Columban  monastery  having  fallen  into  lay 
hands,*  the  church  had  remained  for  nearly  ten  years 
without  a  chief  pastor  ;  that  he,  when  appointed,  found 
the  church  so  desolate  that  he  had  no  cathedral  wherein 
to  lay  his  head  ;  and  that  in  this  unroofed  cliurch  the 
divine  offices  were  celebrated  by  a  single  rural  chaplain. 
In  the  clerestory  the  windows  are  of  two  lights,  with  a 
foiled  circle  set  over  them,  very  plainly  treated  outside, 
but  highly  elaborated  by  a  range  of  shafted  arches  run- 
ning continuously  in  front  of  the  windows  within,  so 
much  apart  from  them  as  to  leave  a  narrow  passage  round 
the  building  in  the  thickness  of  the  wall.  The  E  window 
is  rather  an  unusual  variety  of  triplicate  form  for  a  large 
building,  the  central  light  being  much  taller  and  wider 
than  that  on  each  side  of  it.  In  the  W  front  the  ar- 
rangement is  peculiarly  fine.  Over  the  doorway  and 
its  blind  arch  on  either  side  are  three  very  long  and 
very  narrow  two-light  windows  of  equal  height,  with  a 
cinquefoil  in  the  head  of  the  central  window,  and  a 
quatrefoil  in  the  head  of  the  side  windows  ;  whilst  above 
is  a  vesica,  set  ^^dthin  a  bevilled  fringe  of  bay-leaves 
arranged  zigzag^\^se  with  their  points  in  contact.  It 
was  of  this  W  front  that  Mr  Ruskin  thus  spoke  to  an 
Edinburgh  audience  : — '  Do  you  recollect  the  W  window 
of  your  own  Dunblane  Abbey  ?  It  is  acknowledged  to 
be  beautiful  by  the  most  careless  observer.  And  why 
beautiful  ?  Simply  because  in  its  great  contours  it  has 
the  form  of  a  forest  leaf,  and  because  in  its  decoration  it 
has  used  nothing  but  forest  leaves.  He  was  no  common 
man  who  designed  that  cathedral  of  Dunblane.  I  know 
nothing  so  perfect  in  its  simplicity,  and  so  beautiful,  so 
far  as  it  reaches,  in  all  the  Gothic  with  which  I  am 
acquainted.  And  just  in  proportion  to  his  power  of 
mind,  that  man  was  content  to  work  under  Nature's 
teaching  ;  and,' instead  of  putting  a  merely  formal  dog- 
tooth, as  everybody  else  did  at  the  time,  he  went  dowoi  to 
the  woody  bank  of  the  sweet  river  beneath  the  rocks  on 
which  he  was  building,  and  he  took  up  a  few  of  the 
fallen  leaves  that  lay  by  it,  and  he  set  them  in  his  arch, 
side  by  side  for  ever. '  The  choir,  which  since  the  Re- 
formation has  served  as  the  parish  church,  retained  very 
few  of  its  pristine  features,  when  in  1872-73  it  was  re- 
stored and  reseated,  at  a  cost  of  £2000,  by  the  late  Sir  G. 
G.  Scott.  The  eighteen  oaken  stalls,  of  16th  century 
workmanship,  with  misereres  and  ogee-headed  canopies, 
were  ranged  N  and  S  of  the  site  of  the  high  altar  ;  a 
fine  organ  was  erected  ;  and  two  stained-glass  windows 
were  inserted  by  the  late  Sir  William  Stirling-Maxwell 
of  Keir,  whose  skilful  eye  watched  over  the  whole  work 
of  restoration.  In  the  course  of  it  a  sculptured  stone 
was  discovered,  which,  measuring  6  by  2  feet,  bears 
figures  of  a  finely  carved  cross,  a  man  on  horseback,  a 
dog  or  pig,  etc. ;  among  other  interesting  monuments 
are  efligies  of  Bishop  Finlay  Dermoch,  Bishop  Michael 
Ochiltree,  Malise  Earl  of  Strathearn,  and  his  Countess; 
but  during  the  unfortunate  repairs  of  1817  the  plain  blue 
marble  slabs  were  removed  that  marked  the  graves  of 
James  IV.  's  spouse  (not  queen),  fair  Margaret  Drummond 
and  her  two  sisters,  who  all  were  poisoned  at  Drummond 
Castle  in  1502.  The  bishop's  palace,  overlooking  the 
Allan,  to  the  SW  of  the  cathedral,  has  left  some 
vestiges  ;  but  nothing  remains  of  the  deanery  or  of  the 
manses  of  abliot,  treasurer,  prebends,  and  archdeacon. 
Tlie  Free  churcli  was  built  in  1854,  the  U.P.  church  in 
1835,  and  St  Mary's  Episcopal  church  in  1844,  whicli 
last.  Early  English  in  style,  consists  of  a  nave  with  S 
porch  ancl  structural  sacristy. 

A  burgh  of  barony,  vdth  the  Karl  of  Kinnoull  for 
8U])erior,  and  also  a  police  burgh,  tlie  town  is  now 
governed  by  a  senior  magistrate,  3  junior  magistrates, 
and  6  police  commissioners.    The  municipal  constituency 

*  Skene  overthrows  the  commonly-received  helief  that  Dunblane 
was  ever  a  seat  of  (Juldeey  (Celt.  Scot.,  ii.  403). 
410 


DUNBLANE 

numbered  232  in  1882,  when  the  burgh  valuation 
amounted  to  £7608.  Pop.  (1841)  1911,  (1851)  1816, 
(1861)  1709,  (1871)  1921,  (1881) 2186. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  and  station  of 
Kinbuck,  2|  miles  NNE  of  Dunblane,  is  bounded  NE 
by  Ardoch,  E  by  Blackford  and  Alva,  SE  by  Logic,  SW 
by  Lecropt  and  Kilmadock,  W  by  Kilmadock,  and  N  by 
Monzievaird  (detached)  and  Muthill.  Its  utmost  length, 
from  NNW  to  SSE,  is  7g  miles  ;  its  width,  from  E  to  W, 
varies  between  7  furlongs  and  6f  miles  ;  and  its  area  is 
18,636§acres,  ofwliich93|are  water.  Allan  Water  winds 
8J  miles  south-south-westward,  partly  along  the  Ardoch 
boundary,  but  mainly  through  the  interior  ;  and  Wharry 
Burn,  its  aflluent,  runs  5|  miles  west-south-westward, 
chiefly  along  the  south-eastern  border ;  whilst  Ardoch 
Burn  meanders  5^  miles  south-south-eastward  and  south- 
ward through  the  western  interior  on  its  way  to  the 
Teith.  The  surface  declines  along  the  Allan,  in  the 
furthest  S  of  the  parish,  to  close  on  100  feet  above  sea- 
level,  thence  rising  north-eastward  to  878  feet  beyond 
Linns,  1500  at  Glentye  Hill,  2072  at  *Blairdenon  Hill, 
1955  at  *Mickle  Corum,  and  1683  at  *Little  Corum — 
north-north-westward  to  370  near  Hillside,  509  near 
Blarlean,  617  at  Upper  Glastry,  902  near  Cromlix  Cot- 
tage, and  1653  at  *Slymaback,  where  asterisks  mark 
those  summits  that  culminate  on  the  confines  of  the 
parish.  So  that  Dunblane  comprises  the  principal  part 
of  Strathallan,  with  a  skirting  of  the  Ochils  on  the  E, 
of  the  Braes  of  Doune  on  the  W,  and  exhibits,  especially 
along  the  banks  of  its  clear-flowing  river,  a  series  of 
charming  landscapes.  The  district  to  the  N  of  the 
town  is  mostly  bleak  and  dreary,  that  towards  the  NW 
consists  in  large  measure  of  moors  and  swamps,  and  that 
towards  the  E  includes  part  of  Sheriffmuih,  and  else- 
where is  occupied  by  heathy  heights  ;  but  to  the  S  of 
the  town  is  all  an  assemblage  of  cornfiehls,  parks,  and 
meadows,  of  wooded  dells,  and  gentle  rising-grounds. 
The  climate  of  the  strath,  in  consequence  partly  of 
immediate  shelter  from  the  winds,  partly  of  the  strath's 
position  in  the  centre  of  Scotland,  at  nearly  equal  dis- 
tance from  the  German  and  Atlantic  Oceans  and  from 
the  Moray  and  Solway  Firths,  is  singularly  mild  and 
healthy,  free  alike  from  biting  E  winds  and  from  the 
rain-dropiiing  mists  of  the  W.  Eruptive  rocks  prevail 
throughout  the  hills,  and  Red  sandstone  underlies  all 
the  arable  land,  whose  soil  varies  from  gravel  to  reddish 
clay.  James  Finlayson,  D.D.  (1758-1808),  the  eminent 
divine,  was  born  at  Nether  Cambushinnie  farm — now 
in  Ardoch  parish,  but  then  in  that  of  Dunblane, — and 
went  to  school  at  the  town.  The  Keir  estate  extends 
into  this  parish,  mansions  in  which  are  Ivippenross,  KiP- 
PENDAViE,  Whitecross,  Duthiestone,  Kilbryde  Castle, 
and  Crojilix  Cottage.  Eight  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  6  of  between  £100 
and  £500,  6  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  27  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Dunblane  is  the  seat  of  a  presbytery  in  the  synod 
of  Perth  and  Stirling  ;  the  living  is  worth  £413.  Dun- 
blane public,  Kinbuck  public,  and  Dunblane  Episcopal 
schools,  with  respective  accommodation  for  364,  92,  and 
62  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  223, 
76,  and  87,  and  grants  of  £191,  18s.,  £63,  18s.,  and 
£67,  17s.  Valuation  (1866)  £19,075,  12s.  7d.,  (1882) 
£27,687,  4s.  lid.  Pop.  (1801)  2619,  (1831)  3228,  (1861) 
2528,  (1871)2765,  (1881)  dl22.— Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  39,  1869. 

The  prcsl)ytery  of  Dunblane  comprises  the  ancient 
parishes  of  Aberfoyle,  Balquhidder,  Callander,  Dun- 
blane, Kilmadock,  Kincardine,  Kippcn,  Lecropt,  Logic, 
Port  of  Monteith,  Tillicoultry,  and  Tulliallan,  and  the 
quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Bridge  of  Allan,  Buck ly vie, 
Gartmore,  and  Trossachs,  with  the  chapelry  of  Norris- 
ton.  Pop.  (1871)  25,804,  (1881)  26,501,  of  whom  5054 
were  communicants  of  the  Churcli  of  Scotlaiul  in  1878. 
— The  Free  Church  also  has  a  presbytery  of  Dunblane, 
^vith  churclics  at  Iialquhidder,  Bridge  of  Allan,  Buck- 
lyvie,  Callander,  Dunblane,  Gartmore,  Kilmadock,  Kip- 
])en,  Norriston,  and  Tillicoultry,  which  together  had 
2203  communicants  in  1881. 

See  vol.  ii.  of  Billings'  Baronial  and  Ecclesiastical 
Antiquilics  (1852) ;  T.  S.  Muir's  Characteristics  of  Old 


DUNBLANE,  DOUNE,  &  CALLANDER  RAILWAY 

Church  Architecture  (1861) ;  and  a  History  of  Dunhlane, 
by  Mr  John  Miller,  of  Glasgow,  announced  as  preparing 
in  Aug.  1881. 

Dunblane,  Doune,  and  Callander  Railway.  See  Cale- 
donian Railway. 

Dunbog,  a  parisli  of  NW  Fife,  whoso  church  stands 
3J  miles  E  by  S  of  the  station  and  post-town  Newburgh. 
Bounded  NW  by  the  Firth  of  Tay,  NE  by  Flisk,  the 
Ayton  section  of  Abdie,  and  Creich,  SE  by  Moni- 
mail,  and  SW  by  the  main  body  of  Abdie,  the  parish 
has  an  utmost  length  from  NW  to  SE  of  3g  miles,  a 
varying  breadth  of  3  furlongs  and  2J  miles,  and  an  area 
of  2.396^  acres,  of  which  1^  are  'inks'  and  70f  fore- 
shore. From  a  shore-line,  74  furlongs  in  extent,  the 
surface  rises  rapidly  to  400  feet  at  Higham  and  707  on 
Dunbog  Hill,  the  former  of  which  eminences  is  culti- 
vated to  the  top,  and  commands  a  superb  view  of  the 
basin  and  screens  of  the  Tay,  of  lower  Strathearn,  and 
of  the  frontier  Grampians,  whilst  the  southern  is  uncul- 
tivated and  almost  barren.  The  valley  between  con- 
tains the  hamlet  and  the  church,  and  is  traversed  by 
the  road  from  Newburgh  to  Cupar.  The  rocks  are 
mainly  eruptive  ;  and  the  soil  in  a  few  fields  is  argilla- 
ceous, but  mostly  is  a  shallow  rich  black  mould,  resting 
on  either  rock  or  gravel.  About  1820  acres  are  arable, 
and  30  or  so  are  underwood.  Dunbog  House,  belonging 
to  the  Earl  of  Zetland,  occupies  the  site  of  a  preceptory 
of  the  monks  of  Balmerino  ;  and  is  alleged,  but  not  on 
good  authority,  to  have  been  built  by  Cardinal  Bethune. 
COLLAIRNEY  Castle  is  a  ruin.  In  the  presbytery  of 
Cupar  and  synod  of  Fife,  Dunbog  includes,  quoad  sacra, 
portions  of  Abdie  and  Flisk  ;  the  living  is  worth  £345. 
The  church,  built  in  1803,  contains  240  sittings  ;  and  a 
public  school,  with  accommodation  for  120  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  76,  and  a  grant  of 
£58,  9s.  Valuation  (1882)  £3799,  2s.  lid.  Pop.  of 
civil  parish  (1831)  197,  (1861)  207,  (1871)  220  ;  oi  q.  s. 
parish  (1871)  395,  (1881)  386.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  48, 
1868. 

Dunborerraig,  an  inland  hill  in  Killarrow  parish, 
Islay  island,  Argyllshii'C.  A  ruined  ancient  fortalice  is 
on  it ;  has  walls  12  feet  thick,  with  a  gallery  running 
through  them  ;  measures  52  feet  in  diameter  ^dthin  the 
walls  ;  and  is  thought  to  have  been  built  by  the  Scandi- 
navians, and  used  by  the  Macdonalds. 

Dun,  Bridge  of.     See  Dun,  Forfarshire. 

Dunbuck.     See  Dtjmbuck. 

Dunbuy,  an  insulated  rock  in  Cruden  parish,  Aber- 
deenshire, J  mile  S  by  W  of  the  BuUers  of  Buchan. 
Pierced  by  a  magnificent  natural  arch,  it  is  thought  to 
be  the  prototype  of  the  Scrath  Rock  in  Shirley's  Cam- 
'paAgn  at  Home,  and  is  mentioned  by  Sir  Walter  Scott 
in  his  Antiquary ;  whilst  Dr  Johnson  described  it  as  'a 
double  protuberance  of  stone,  open  to  the  main  sea  on 
one  side,  and  parted  from  the  land  by  a  very  narrow 
channel  on  the  other. '  Its  name  (dun-buidhe)  signifies 
the  '  yellow  rock,'  and  alludes  to  its  being  covered  with 
guano  from  innumerable  sea-fowl. 

Duncanlaw,  an  ancient  chapelry  in  the  E  of  Yester 
parish,  Haddingtonshire.  Its  chapel  was  endowed  by 
Robert  III.,  but  is  now  quite  extinct. 

Duncansbay  Head,  a  promontory  in  Canisbay  parish, 
Caithness,  forming  the  north-eastern  extremity  of  the 
Scottish  mainland,  1|  mile  E  of  John  o'  Groat's  House, 
and  18J  miles  N  by  E  of  Wick.  Rising  almost  sheer 
from  the  sea  to  a  height  of  210  feet,  it  is  clothed  to  the 
very  brink  of  the  precipice  with  a  mixture  of  green- 
sward and  stunted  heath,  and  bears  remains  of  an  ancient 
watch-tower  on  its  highest  point,  which  commands  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  Pentland  Firth  and  the  Orkneys, 
and  over  the  Moray  Firth,  away  to  the  seaboard  and  hills 
of  Elgin,  Banff,  and  Aberdeen  shires.  In  its  northern 
front,  near  the  top  of  the  precipice,  is  a  vast  cavern, 
called  the  Glupe  ;  and  elsewhere  its  seafowl-haunted 
cliffs  are  gashed  with  deep  wide  fissures,  one  of  them 
spanned  by  a  natural  bridge.  The  Stacks  of  Duncansbay, 
two  rocky  islets  f  mile  SSW  of  the  promontory,  are 
stupendous  pyramidal  masses  of  naked  sandstone,  that 
lift  their  fantastic  summits  far  into  the  air,  and  look 


DUNDAFF 

like  huge  pinnacles  of  some  old  Gothic  pile. — Ord.  Sur., 
sh.  116;  1878. 

Duncansburgh,  a  quoad  sacra  parish  formed  in  1860 
out  of  the  Inverness-shire  portion  of  Kiiuiallie  parish, 
and  including  the  post-town  Fort  William.  It  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Abertarff  and  synod  of  Glenelg ;  the 
stipend  is  £120.  A  new  parish  church  and  manse  were 
built  at  Fort  William  in  1881  at  a  co.st  of  £5000. 

Duncan's  Height,  a  tumulus  36  feet  high  in  St  Andrews 
parish,  Orkney,  on  the  isthmus  at  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  parish. 

Duncan's  Hill,  a  round  mound  in  the  N  of  Caputh 
parish,  Perthshire,  a  little  SAV  of  Glenbimam  House,  in 
the  southern  vicinity  of  Dunkeld.  It  has  traces  of  a 
rude  ancient  fortification,  and  is  popularly  said  to  have 
been  the  scat  of  King  Duncan's  court. 

Duncharloway,  a  ruined  circular  fortification  in  Lochs 
parish,  Lewis,  Ross-shire,  on  the  southern  shore  of  Loch 
Caiioway. 

Dunchifie,  a  ruined,  ancient,  strong  fortification  near 
the  middle  of  Gigha  island,  Argyllshire. 

Duncomb,  a  conical  hill  on  the  N  border  of  Old  Kil- 
patrick  parish,  Dumbartonshire,  3^  miles  NNW  of 
Duntocher.  It  has  an  altitude  of  1313  feet  above  sea- 
level  ;  and  it  commands,  through  openings  among  neigh- 
bouring hills,  a  magnificent  prospect  to  the  S,  to  the  E, 
and  to  the  W. 

Duncow,  a  village,  a  burn,  and  a  barony  of  Kirkmahoe 
parish,  Nithsdale,  Dumfriesshire.  The  village,  on  the 
burn's  left  bank,  5  miles  N  by  W  of  Dumfries,  took 
its  name  from  a  round  hill  or  '  dun '  adjacent  to  it, 
and  retained  dovfa  to  1804  a  large  stone  marking  the 
site  of  the  cottage  in  which  James  V.  is  said  to  have 
passed  the  night  preceding  his  visit  to  Amisfield.  It 
now  has  a  post  otfice  under  Dumfries,  a  public  school, 
and  a  parochial  library.  The  bum,  rising  within  the 
S  border  of  Closeburn  parish,  runs  8  miles  south-by- 
eastward  through  Kirkmahoe  parish,  and  falls  into  the 
Nith  3  miles  N  by  W  of  Dumfries.  The  barony,  mainly 
consisting  of  the  burn's  basin,  belonged  to  the  Comyns, 
the  ancient  competitors  for  the  Scottish  crown.  For- 
feited by  them,  along  with  the  neighbouring  barony 
of  Dalswinton,  and  given  to  the  Boyds,  at  the  accession 
of  Robert  Bruce,  it  afterwards  passed  to  the  Maxwells, 
Earls  of  Nithsdale,  and  about  1796  was  sold  in  sections 
to  various  purchasers. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  9,  1863. 

Duncraggan,  a  quondam  hamlet  in  Callander  parish, 
Perthshire,  between  Lochs  Achray  and  Venachar,  ad- 
jacent to  the  charred  remains  of  the  New  Trosachs 
Hotel.  It  was  the  first  stage  of  the  fiery  cross,  as  de- 
scribed in  the  Lady  of  the  Lake — 

'  Duncraggan's  huts  appear  at  last, 
And  peep,  like  moss-grown  rocks,  half-seen, 
Half-hidden  in  the  copse  so  green.' 

Duncreich.     See  Creich,  Sutherland. 

Duncrevie,  a  village  in  the  Kinross-shire  section  of 
Arngask  parish,  3^  miles  NNE  of  Milnathort. 

Duncrub,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Dunning 
parish,  SE  Perthshire,  1  mile  WNW  of  Dunning  town. 
Granted  to  John  de  Rollo  in  1380  by  David,  Earl  of 
Strathearn,  and  erected  in  1511  into  a  free  barony,  it 
now  is  held  by  John  Rogerson  Rollo,  tenth  Baron  RoUo 
of  Duncrub  in  the  peerage  of  Scotland  since  1651,  and 
first  Baron  Dunning  of  Dunning  and  Pitoairns  in  that 
of  the  United  Kingdom  since  1869  (b.  1835  ;  sue.  1852), 
who  owns  10,148  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £8419  per 
annum.     See  Dumckieff. 

Duncryne,  an  abrupt,  conical,  and  finely-wooded  hill 
in  the  centre  of  Kilraaronock  parish,  Dumbartonshire,  4 
miles  NE  of  Balloch  pier.  Resting  on  a  basis  of  about 
2  acres,  and  rising  462  feet  above  sea-level,  it  consists  of 
trap  rock  disintegrated  on  the  surface  by  subaerial  de- 
nudation. Its  summit  is  gained  by  a  winding  pathway, 
and  commands  a  splendid  view  of  Strathendrick,  the 
Vale  of  Leven,  and  the  hill-screens  of  Loch  Lomond. 

DundaflF,  a  waterfall  on  the  mutual  boundary  of  Lanark 
and  Lesniahagow  parishes,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  river 
Clyde,  2h  furlongs  below  Corra  Linn.  It  has  a  descent 
of  not  more  than  10  feet,  but  presents  a  pretty  miniature 

411 


DUNDAFF 

of  the  greater  falls  in  its  vicinity,  and  is  well  seen  from 
a  spot  near  New  Lanark  village. 

DundafiF,  a  range  of  hills  in  the  W  of  St  Ninians 
parish,  Stirlingshire.  Forming  the  north-eastern  section 
of  the  Lennox  Hills,  it  is  divided  on  the  S  from  the 
Kilsyth  HiUs  by  Carron  "Water,  on  the  "W  from  the 
Fintry  and  the  Gargunnock  Hills  partly  by  Endrick 
AVater,  partly  by  a  line  of  watershed  ;  and,  extending 
about  5h  miles  from  N  to  S,  and  4  miles  from  W  to  E, 
it  commences  in  Dundaff  proper  (1157  feet),  flanking 
the  Carron  7  miles  SW  by  S  of  Stu-ling,  and  terminates 
in  Scout  Head  (709),  near  the  Forth,"  4  miles  W  by  S 
of  Stirling.  Between  these  rise  Drummarnock  (909), 
Cairnoch  (1354),  Hart  Hill  (1428),  and  Earls  Hill  (1443), 
with  several  other  summits  of  similar  altitudes.  The 
Dundaff  range  resembles  the  other  sections  of  the  Lennox 
Hills  in  geognostic  formation,  but  dilfers  from  them  in 
being  less  verdant  or  more  heath}^ ;  it  belonged  formerly 
to  the  Grahams,  ancestors  of  the  Duke  of  Montrose, 
and  gives  to  the  Duke,  in  the  peerage  of  Scotland,  the 
title  of  Viscount  DundaS.—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  31,  39, 
1867-69. 

Dundalav,  a  conical,  steep,  rocky  hill  in  Laggan 
parish,  Inverness-shire,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Spey, 
2|  mUes  AVSW  of  Laggan  Bridge,  and  13  WSW  of 
Kingussie.  Its  small  tubular  summit,  rising  600  feet 
above  the  circumjacent  ground,  commands  a  very  exten- 
sive prospect  of  the  upper  part  of  Badenoch,  and  is 
crowned  with  remains  of  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
ancient  Caledonian  forts  in  Scotland,  formed  of  walls 
from  5  to  25  feet  thick,  and  measuring  interiorly  420  feet 
in  length,  and  from  75  to  205  in  width.  The  hill  has 
two  projections  or  sub-summits  on  its  sides,  and  seems 
to  have  thence  got  its  name — Gael,  dun-da-laimh,  'fort 
of  the  two  hands. ' 

Dundaxave  (Gael,  dun-da-raimh,  '  castle  of  the  two 
oars '),  a  strong  old  turreted  tower  in  Kilmorich  parish, 
Argyllshire,  occupying  a  low  site  on  the  shore  of  Loch 
Fyne,  4i  miles  ENE  of  Inverary.  A  principal  seat  of 
the  Macnaughtons,  it  bears  their  motto  '  I  hoip  in  God,' 
with  the  date  1596,  and  still  continues  in  good  preserva- 
tion. 

Dundardil,  an  ancient  fort  in  Dores  parish,  Inverness- 
shire,  supposed  to  have  been  one  of  a  chain  of  forts  or 
signal  stations  extending  along  all  the  Gleat  Glen  from 
Inverness  to  Fort  William. 

Dundargue,  an  ancient  baronial  fortalice  on  the  coast 
of  Aberdour  parish,  N  Aberdeenshire,  3^  miles  AVSAV  of 
Rosehearty.  Crowning  a  sandstone  peninsula  65  feet 
high,  it  was  built  by  the  Englishman,  Henry  de  Beau- 
mont, fifth  Earl  of  Buchan  by  right  of  his  wife.  From 
him  it  was  captured  by  the  regent.  Sir  Andrew  Moray, 
in  1333  ;  and  now  it  is  represented  by  mere  vestiges. 

Dundas  Castle,  a  mansion  in  Dalmeny  ])arisli,  Lin- 
lithgowshire, on  the  north-eastern  extremity  of  a  low 
basaltic  ridge  called  Dundas  Hill,  1^  mile  SSW  of 
Queensferry.  The  estate  was  held  by  a  family  of  its 
own  name  from  1124  or  thereabouts  till  1875,  when  it 
was  purchased  by  the  trustees  of  the  late  James  Russel, 
Esq.  ;  it  comprises  2082  acres,  valued  at  £4724  per 
annum.  Tlie  castle,  partly  of  high  antiquity,  was 
partly  rebuilt  by  the  late  James  Dundas,  Esq.  of  Dun- 
das (1793-1881) ;  and,  with  its  thick  walls  and  its  vaulted 
chambers,  is  one  of  the  finest  and  best-preserved  baronial 
fortalices  in  Scotland.  It  sustained  a  siege  in  1449,  and 
on  24  July  1651  received  a  visit  from  Oliver  Cromwell. 
Dundas  Hill,  extending  |  mile  from  SE  to  NW,  presents 
to  the  SW  a  precipitous  columnar  front  about  70  feet 
high,  attains  an  elevation  of  380  feet  above  sea-level, 
and  terminates  abruptly  in  a  bold  wooded  bluff. 

Dun-Daviot.     See  D.vvior,  Inverness-shire. 

Dundee,  a  to^vn  and  a  jiarish,  or  group  of  parishes  on 
the  southern  border  of  Forfar.shire.  The  town  stands 
chiefly  in  its  own  parisli,  Ijut  partly  also  in  the  parish  of 
Lilf  and  Benvie.  It  is  a  royal  bnrgh,  a  great  seat  of 
manufacture,  an  extensive  seaport,  the  largest  seat  of 
pojjulation  in  Scotland  next  to  Glasf'ow  and  Edinburgh, 
and  the  rival,  or  more  than  the  rival,  of  these  cities  and 
©f  the  most  prosperous  of  other  Scottish  towns,  in 
412 


DUNDEE 

modern  rapidity  of  extension.  It  occupies  a  reach  of 
flats  and  slopes  on  the  N  side  of  the  Firth  of  Tay, 
3^  miles  W  of  Broughty  Ferry,  9  W  of  Buddon  Ness, 
14  S  by  W  of  Forfar,  21f  ENE  of  Perth,  42  (vid  Cupar- 
Fife)  N  by  E  of  Edinburgh,  and  84  NE  of  Glasgow. 


Seal  of  Dundee. 

The  ground  beneath  and  around  it  rises  rapidl)'  from  a 
belt  of  plain,  through  undulating  braes,  to  rounded 
hills,  and  culminates  directly  N  of  the  to^vn,  about  IJ 
mile  from  the  shore,  in  the  summit  of  Dundee  Law. 
The  edificed  area,  seen  in  profile,  is  picturesque  ;  the 
outskirts  ai'e  well  embellished  with  wood  and  culture  ; 
Dundee  Law,  rising  to  an  altitude  of  571  feet  above  sea- 
level,  has  a  fine,  verdant,  dome-shaped  summit ;  Balgay 
Hill,  a  lesser  eminence  a  little  further  AV,  is  sheeted 
with  wood  ;  and  the  entire  town  and  environs,  beheld  in 
one  view  from  Broughty  Ferry  Road,  or  from  the  S  side 
of  the  Tay,  look  richly  beautiful.  '  Bonnie  Dundee ' 
is  a  designation  originally  given  to  the  persecutor 
Claverhouse,  recognising  his  outward  or  physical  comeli- 
ness, and  ignoring  his  inward  or  moral  hideousness ; 
and  it  applies  in  a  somewhat  analogous  way  to  the  town, 
whence  he  took  his  title  of  Viscount,  recognising  it 
triUy  as  most  attractive  in  its  exterior,  but  making  no 
allusion  to  the  character  of  its  interior.  The  site,  having 
at  once  amenity,  salubrity,  and  commerce,  is  singularly 
advantageous  ;  but,  for  purposes  of  military  defence  it  is 
utterly  untenable,  being  thoroughly  commanded  by  the 
neighbouring  heights,  and  for  the  uses  of  facile 
thoroughfare,  social  convenience,  and  sanitary  law,  it 
has  not,  as  we  shall  see,  been  judiciously  aligned. 

The  ancient  burgh  stood  on  low  flat  ground  along  the 
shore,  only  ^  mile  long,  between  Tods  Burn  and  AVallace 
Burn  ;  and  comprised  only  two  principal  streets,  Sea- 
gate, next  the  Taj',  and  Cowgate,  somewhat  parallel  on 
the  N.  The  modern  burgh  as  far  exceeds  the  ancient 
one  as  a  great  town  exceeds  a  mere  village.  In  one 
gi-eat  line  of  street,  .somewhat  sinuous,  but  mostly  not 
much  off  the  straight  line,  it  stretches  from  AV  to  E, 
near  and  along  the  shore,  under  the  name  of  Perth  Road, 
Nethergate,  High  Street,  Seagate,  and  Crofts,  nearly  If 
mile.  In  another  great  line,  first  north-westward,  next 
northward,  ami  again  north-westward,  it  stretches  from 
the  shore,  through  Castle  Street,  Murraygate,  AVellgate, 
and  Bonnet  Hill,  upwards  of  j  inile  ;  and  even  there 
struggles  onward  through  distinct  beginnings  of  further 
extension.  A  third  line  of  street,  commencing  on  tlie 
W  at  the  same  point  as  Perth  Road,  but  diverging  till 
nearly  J  mile  distant,  and  called  over  this  space  Hawk- 
hill  ;  then,  under  the  name  of  Overgate,  converging 
toward  it  till  both  merge  into  High  Street ;  then,  at  the 
latter  street  diverging  northward  through  that  part  of 
the  second  line  which  consists  of  Murraygate,  ancl  at  the 
end  of  that  street  debouching  eastward  under  the  name 


DUNDEE 

of  Cowgate,  nearly  parallel  to  Seagate,  extends  about 
1|  mile.  But  while  thus  covering  an  extensive  area, 
the  town  possesses  little  regularity  of  plan.  Excepting 
numerous  new  streets,  generally  short  ones,  on  the  N 
and  a  number  of  brief  communications  between  the  two 
great  lines  along  the  low  ground,  not  even  the  trivial 
grace  of  straightness  of  thoroughfare  is  displayed.  Most 
of  the  old  streets,  too,  are  of  varying  width,  and  many 
of  the  alleys  are  very  narrow.  Yet,  by  its  public  build- 
ings, by  its  latest  extensions,  by  its  crowded  harbour,  by 
its  great  and  numerous  factories,  by  its  exhibitions  of 
enterprise  and  opulence,  and  by,  here  and  there,  a  dash 
of  the  picturesque,  the  town  offers  large  compensation 
for  what  it  wants  in  the  neat  forms  and  elegant  attrac- 
tions of  simple  beauty. 

High  Street  was  anciently  called  Market  Gate,  from 
connection  with  the  public  markets  ;  was  at  one  time 
popularly  called  the  Cross,  from  its  having  contained, 
for  a  long  period  subsequent  to  1586,  the  old  town  cross  ; 
forms  an  oblong  square  or  rectangle,  360  feet  long  and 
100  broad  ;  is  mostly  edificed  with  modern,  substantial 
four-story  houses,  with  shops  on  the  ground  floor ;  and 
presents  a  bustling,  mercantile,  and  grandiose  appear- 
ance similar  to  that  of  Trongate  or  Argyll  Street  of 
Glasgow.  Seagate  was  once  the  fashionable  quarter  of 
the  burgh,  the  abode  of  the  Guthries,  the  Afflecks,  the 
Brightons,  the  Burnsides,  and  other  principal  families ; 
is  a  long,  sinuous,  and  very  narrow  thoroughfare,  quite 
denuded  of  its  ancient  splendour ;  has,  within  the  last 
few  years,  undergone  considerable  improvement ;  is  pro- 
longed eastward,  through  Crofts  and  Carolina  Port,  with 
continuity  with  Broughty  Ferry  road  ;  and  communi- 
cates laterally,  through  Queen  Street,  St  Roque's  Lane, 
and  Sugarhouse  Wynd,  with  Cowgate.  Murraygate, 
which  is  now  comparatively  wide  and  well  built,  branches, 
its  N  end,  into  Cowgate,  Wellgate,  and  Panmure  Street. 
Cowgate  inclines  eastward  ;  is  mostly  of  disagreeable 
aspect,  but  contains  some  good  and  lofty  buildings ; 
has,  of  late  years,  been  greatly  improved ;  and  termi- 
nates a  few  yards  beyond  in  an  interesting  ancient  gate- 
way, known  as  Cowgate  Port.  King  Street  subdivides 
and  contracts  Cowgate  ;  deflects  at  an  acute  angle  from 
its  N  side ;  is,  for  the  most  part,  well  built ;  possesses, 
at  its  commencement,  several  elegant  private  residences 
and  handsome  shops  ;  runs  north-eastward  to  Wallace 
Burn ;  and  merges  there  in  the  Arbroath  road,  leading  to 
the  Baxter  Park  and  the  Eastern  Necropolis.  Wellgate 
rises  gently  from  Murraygate  ;  goes  northward  to  Lady 
Well,  giving  name  to  it ;  and  leads  to  Victoria  Road, 
Hilltown,  Maxwellton,  Smithfield,  and  other  suburbs. 
Victoria  Road  (formerly  Bucklemaker  Wynd)  goes  later- 
ally from  the  top  of  Wellgate  to  Wallace  Burn,  and  is 
flanked  on  the  N  by  an  extensive  rising-ground  called 
Forebank.  Hilltown  (formerly  Bonnet  Hill)  goes  on  a 
line  with  Wellgate  ;  climbs  a  steep  ascent,  and  so  is 
called  Hilltown  ;  took  its  name  of  Bonnet  Hill  from 
once  being  the  abode  of  bonnet-makers  ;  is  now  a  seat  of 
various  extensive  manufactures  ;  consists  generally  of  ill- 
built  houses,  Jconfusedly  interspersed  with  juteTactories  ; 
and  presents  a  motley  and  grotesque  appearance.  Max- 
wellton occupies  grounds  between  Bonnet  Hill  and  Hill- 
bank,  northward  of  Forebank,  and  is  a  suburb  of  recent 
origin  ;  and  Hillbank,  situated  on  the  villa  grounds,  is 
a  still  newer  suburb.  Panmure  Street,  the  third  street 
striking  from  the  IST  end  of  Murraygate,  possesses  some 
of  the  best  specimens  of  the  town's  street  architectvire. 

Castle  Street  goes  from  High  Street,  at  right  angles 
with  the  commencement  of  Seagate  ;  leads  down  to  the 
harbour  and  docks  ;  is  well  editiced  ;  and  breaks  at  its 
foot  into  a  fine  open  space,  recently  much  improved  by 
the  removal  of  the  fishmarket.  Crichton  Street  goes 
from  the  SW  corner  of  High  Street  ;  runs  parallel  with 
Castle  Street ;  and  leads  down  to  the  greenmarket, 
and  on  to  Earl  Grey's  Dock.  Dock  Street  runs  E  and 
W  along  the  harbour  ;  is  a  spacious,  well-built,  and 
busy  thoroughfare  ;  and  has  at  its  E  end  the  custom- 
house and  the  Arbroath  railway  station.  Under  the 
Improvement  Act  of  1871  an  enlargement  and  extension 
of  Commercial  Street,   from  Albert  Square  to   Dock 


DUNDEE 

Street,  was  carried  out,  and  this  is  now  one  of  the 
handsomest  and  most  architectural  streets  in  the  town. 
Reform  Street  strikes  from  High  Street  in  a  direction 
the  reverse  of  Castle  Street  and  Crichton  Street ;  was 
erected  after  designs  by  Mr  Burn,  of  Edinburgh,  as  one 
of  the  finest  streets  in  the  town  ;  and  both  as  to  the 
style  of  its  buildings  and  as  to  the  splendour  of  its  shops, 
rivals  some  of  the  best  parts  of  Edinburgh.  Bank 
Street  goes  from  nearly  the  middle  of  Reform  Street ; 
was  opened  shortly  before  1870  ;  and  takes  its  name 
from  the  oflice  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  occupying  its 
eastern  corner.  Albert  Square  opens  from  the  northern 
extremity  of  Reform  Street ;  surrounds  a  space  formerly 
occupied  by  unsightly  tenements  and  hideous  time-worn 
erections  ;  was  formed  by  clearances  of  these  about  the 
year  1864 ;  contains  the  Albert  Institute,  the  Free 
Libraiy  and  Museum,  and  the  Burns,  Kinloch,  and 
Carmichael  monuments  ;  adjoins  a  number  of  .splendid 
public  edifices  ;  and  is  as  handsome  a  central  place  as 
any  provincial  town  can  boast.  Ward  Road  goes  west- 
ward from  Albert  Square  ;  Constitution  Road  strikes 
northward  from  nearly  the  middle  of  Ward  Road  ;  Bell 
Street  intersects  Constitution  Road  ;  Parker  S(|uare, 
named  after  the  late  Provost  Parker,  lies  westward  from 
Bell  Street ;  and  Dudhope  Road,  communicating  with 
the  north-eastern  suburbs,  leads  westward  to  the  Bar- 
racks, the  Infirmary,  the  Barrack  Park,  the  Law,  and 
the  open  country  beyond.  The  Pleasance  also  lies  in 
the  NW,  and  is  supposed,  from  its  name,  to  have 
been  once  a  charming  suburban  quarter  ;  but  is  now  a 
dense  assemblage  of  factories,  and  of  miserable  unwhole- 
some dwellings. 

Overgate,  going  westward  from  the  NW  corner  of 
High  Street,  is  one  of  the  oldest  thoroughfares  of  the 
town  ;  possessed  in  former  times  town  mansions  of  the 
Marquis  of  Argyll,  the  Earls  of  Angus,  Viscount  Dundee, 
Stirling  of  East  Baikie,  and  other  magnates ;  was 
originally  called  Argyllgate  from  its  connection  with  the 
family  of  Argyll ;  sends  off  various  wynds  or  alleys  to 
the  right  and  the  left ;  exhibits,  together  with  these 
wynds,  an  utter  recklessness  of  architectural  taste  or 
uniformity,  feebly  redeemed  by  the  presence  of  many 
good  houses  ;  has  a  total  length  of  more  than  ^  mile  ; 
and  terminates  at  the  West  Port,  one  of  the  most  busy 
and  stirring  parts  of  the  town.  South  Tay  Street,  form- 
ing the  principal  communication  from  Overgate  to  the 
lower  part  of  the  town,  is  handsomely  edificed,  and 
possesses  a  beautiful  square.  Hawkhill,  diverging 
in  a  line  westward  from  the  West  Port,  contains  a 
number  of  large  factories  and  many  good  buildings, 
and  joins  the  Perth  Road  at  Blacknessgate.  Go^\Tie 
Place,  at  the  W  end  of  Hawkhill,  is  a  large  and 
splendid  block  of  houses.  Scouringburn,  running 
north-westward  from  the  West  Port,  contains  ex- 
tensive factories  and  a  dense  population,  and  joins 
the  Lochee  Road  opposite  Dudhope  Free  church. 
Lindsay  Street,  Barrack  Street,  and  other  modern 
thoroughfares  northward  from  Overgate  and  Scouring- 
burn present  good  lines  of  new  and  pleasingly  con- 
structed buildings.  Nethergate,  going  westward  from 
the  S  W  corner  of  High  Street,  is  prolonged  to  the  western 
outskirts  by  Perth  Road ;  forms,  jointly  with  Perth 
Road,  a  continuous  reach  of  about  a  mile  in  length  ;  is 
of  very  unequal  breadth,  and  of  somewhat  unequal 
architecture,  but  averagely  spacious  and  well  edificed ; 
exhibits,  in  its  middle  and  western  portions,  and  in 
streets  branching  from  it,  as  aristocratic  an  air  as  can 
comport  with  proximity  to  manufacturing  and  commer- 
cial stir  ;  contains,  in  its  Perth  Road  section,  some 
handsome  villas  with  flower-plots  in  front ;  and  leads, 
through  a  forking  continuation  seaward,  into  the  pro- 
menade of  Magdalene  Green.  Union  Street  goes  from 
Nethergate,  opposite  the  town  churches,  northwards 
towards  the  West  and  Tay  Bridge  stations,  the  esplan- 
ade, the  Tay  ferries,  and  the  harbour  ;  was  formed  in 
1828  on  clearances  of  many  old,  unsightly,  time-worn 
houses  ;  is  a  spacious  and  handsomely  ediliced  thorougli- 
fare  ;  and  had  its  southern  extremity  greatly  improved 
in  1882  by  the  removal  of  a  block  of  old  houses,  the 

413 


DUNDEE 

abodes  of  the  very  lowest  classes  of  inhabitants.  Yea- 
man  Shore  and  Exchange  Street  are  well-built  thorough- 
fares of  comparatively  modern  construction  adjoining 
the  harbour.  Several  other  streets,  in  addition  to  those 
we  have  named,  contribute  good  features  to  the  new 
parts  of  the  town  and  to  its  outskirts. 

Although  rich  in  historical  associations,  few  build- 
ings now  remain  which  are  of  much  interest  to  the 
antiquary.  The  imperious  demands  of  an  ever-increasing 
population  and  of  a  constantly  expanding  trade,  have 
led  to  the  removal  of  numerous  tenements  of  historic 
value,  which  for  many  centuries  had  withstood  the 
destroying  hand  of  Time.  No  fewer  than  19  ancient 
churches  or  chapels,  all  now  extinct,  stood  within  the 
town  or  its  suburbs  ;  and  in  many  instances  were  so 
prominent  as  to  give  their  names,  in  some  manner  or 
other,  to  localities  near  or  around  them.  St  Paul's 
Church  was  the  oldest,  stood  within  ]\Im-raygate  and 
Seagate,  and  gave  the  name  of  Paul's  Close  to  an  alley 
which  was  closed  so  late  as  about  1866.  St  Clement's 
Church  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  Town-Hall  in 
High  Street ;  was  a  large,  oblong  structure,  with  a  high 
steep  roof,  and  with  small  circular  turrets  at  the  four 
corners  ;  is  seen  towering  above  the  surrounding  build- 
ings in  Slezer's  view  of  the  town,  published  in  1696  ; 
and  gave  its  name  to  St  Clement's  Lane,  leading  to  the 
shore.  St  John's  Church  stood  on  a  rock  a  short  way  E 
of  Carolina  Port,  nearly  1|  mile  from  High  Street ;  was 
called  originally  Kilcraig,  signifying  '  the  church  upon 
the  rock,'  but  called  afterwards  by  the  Roman  Catho- 
lics the  Church  of  the  Holy  Rood ;  and  is  commemo- 
rated in  the  name  of  an  adjacent  burying-ground,  called 
Rood  Yard.  St  Roque's  Chapel  stood  outside  of  Cow- 
gate  Port,  between  Denbridge  and  the  E  end  of  Seagate, 
and  is  commemorated  in  the  name  of  an  alley  running 
from  Seagate  to  King  Street,  and  called  St  Roque's  Lane. 
St  Salvator's  Chapel  stood  on  a  rocky  rising-ground  N 
of  High  Street  and  Overgate,  and  is  commemorated  in 
the  name  of  an  adjacent  close.  Our  Lady's  Chapel  stood 
at  the  foot  of  Hilltown,  and  is  commemorated  in  the 
names  of  Ladywell  and  Ladywell  Yard.  St  Nicholas' 
Chapel  stood  on  a  rock  at  the  western  part  of  the  har- 
bour, and  gave  to  its  site  the  name  Nicholas  Rock, 
afterwards  changed  into  Chapel  Craig.  St  Michael's 
Chapel  adjoined  to  the  town  mansion  of  the  old  Earls  of 
Crawford,  and  was  demolished  to  make  way  for  Union 
Street.  St  Mary's  Chapel  stood  on  the  E  side  of  Couttie's 
Wynd,  and  was  represented  till  recently  by  a  vestige  of 
its  basement.  Logic  Church  stood  westward  of  the 
toAvn,  within  the  present  parish  of  Liff  and  Benvie,  and 
was  a  mensal  or  table-furnishing  church  of  the  Bishop 
of  Brechin.  St  Blaise's  Chapel  stood  on  the  W  side  of 
Thorter  Row.  St  Thomas'  Chapel  occupied  part  of  a 
rock  which  was  cut  away  to  make  room  for  Reform 
Street.  Cowgate  Chapel,  also  called  Our  Lady's  Chapel, 
stood  on  the  S  side  of  Cowgate,  at  the  top  of  Sugarhouse 
Wynd,  previously  called  Fintry's  Wynd,  and  originally 
called  Our  Lady's  AVynd.  St  Serf's  Chapel,  St  Stephen's 
Chapel,  St  Fillan's  Chapel,  St  James  the  Less's  Cliapel, 
St  James  the  Greater's  Chapel,  and  St  Margaret's  Chapel 
occupied  sites  which  cannot  now  be  identified. 

Tlie  Greyfriars'  Monastery,  adjacent  to  what  is  now 
the  Howfl',  is  said  to  have  been  founded  about  1260  by 
Devorgilla,  mother  of  King  John  Baliol ;  was  the  meet- 
ing-place, in  1309,  of  a  great  national  ecclesiastical 
council  recognising  Robert  Bruce  as  King  of  Scotland  ; 
and  was  entirely  demolished  at  the  Reformation.  A 
Black  friars'  monastery  stood  on  the  W  side  of  Barrack 
Street,  originally  called  Friars'  Vennel,  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  in  the  15th  century  by  a  burgess  of  Dun- 
dee ;  had  gardens  and  orchards  extending  westward  to 
Lindsay  Street ;  and  was  swept  away  at  the  Reforma- 
tion. A  Redfriars'  monastery  stood  conjunctly  with  a 
hospital  at  the  foot  of  South  Tay  Street ;  was  founded, 
in  1392,  by  Sir  James  Lindsay  of  Crawford  ;  seems, 
with  the  hospital,  to  have  formed  a  large  and  splendiil 

froup  of  buildings,  surmounted  by  a  tower  ;  was  partly 
umed,  in  161f»,  by  the  Marcjuis  of  ilontrose ;  and  con- 
tinues still  to  figure  in  the  town's  landscape  at  the  pub- 
414 


DUNDEE 

lication  of  Slezer's  view  in  1696.  A  Franciscan  nunnery, 
or  nunnery  of  St  Clair,  stood  at  the  top  of  Methodist 
Close,  off  the  N  side  of  Overgate  ;  was  a  large,  massive, 
lofty  pile,  forming  three  sides  of  a  quadrangle  roimd  a 
small  court ;  came  to  be  occupied  in  modern  times  by  a 
number  of  poor  families ;  retained  in  its  interior,  even 
then,  some  relics  of  ancient  grandeur;  and  was  de- 
molished so  late  as  Nov.  1870.  A  IMagdalene  establish- 
ment stood  near  the  river,  at  the  SW  side  of  the  town  ; 
seems  to  have  occupied  a  spot  there,  at  which  several 
fragments  of  statues  were  exhumed  at  the  digging  of 
foundations  for  modern  houses  ;  and  gave  name  to  the 
open  ground  still  called  Magdalene  Green. 

The  most  notable  of  still  existing  antiquities  is  St 
Mary's  Tower,  or  the  Old  Steeple  as  it  is  popularly  termed, 
situated  in  the  Nethergate.  This  massive  and  venerable 
tower  is  among  the  most  ancient  piles  in  the  country, 
having  survived  storm  and  tempest,  fire  and  siege,  for 
many  centuries.  According  to  the  commonly  received 
account,  this  tower  was  founded  by  David,  Earl  of 
Huntingdon,  in  1189,  but  recent  research  assigns  it  to  the 
middle  of  the  14th  century.  The  tower  rises  to  a  height 
of  156  feet,  is  square,  the  inside  of  the  square  measuring 
8  yards,  with  walls  nearly  8  feet  in  thickness.  The 
grand  entrance  is  in  the  W  front,  and  exhibits  a  great 
variety  of  decoration.  The  ascent  to  the  top  of  the 
toAver  is  by  an  octagonal  staircase,  in  the  NE  wall,  in 
one  unbroken  line  from  base  to  summit — the  frequent 
repetition  of  loop-holes  or  windows  surmounting  each 
other  giving  an  air  of  loftiness  to  the  imposing  mass, 
which  completely  neutralises  the  lowering  effect  of  the 
horizontal  lines  prevailing  on  its  different  stages.  On 
entering  the  lower  part  of  the  tower  by  the  western 
door,  the  visitor  finds  himself  in  a  spacious  apartment, 
with  an  area  of  576  square  feet.  The  sedilia,  or  stone 
seats,  still  remain  entire,  and  extend  along  the  N,  S, 
and  W  walls.  The  groined  roof,  remarkable  for  its 
loftiness,  is  supported  at  each  corner  by  pillars  of  huge 
proportions,  and  has  a  rich  as  well  as  a  dignified  effect, 
the  bosses  on  its  groined  arches  being  bold  and  full, 
with  a  large  circular  aperture  in  the  centre  of  the  groin. 
On  the  W  front  of  the  middle  parapet  is  an  admirable 
figure  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  ;  a  figure  of  our  Lord, 
sitting  on  his  throne,  with  a  sceptre  in  his  right  hand, 
and  an  orb  in  his  left,  occupies  a  niche  on  the  E  side  ; 
and  a  standing  figure  of  St  David,  the  founder  of  the 
tower,  with  his  sceptre  and  orb,  is  on  the  S  side.  In 
1871-73  the  fabric  imderwent  a  thorough  restoration 
under  the  supervision  of  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  at  a  cost  of 
about  £8000,  the  most  of  which  was  raised  by  public 
subscription,  but  latterly  the  work  was  taken  in  hand 
and  completed  by  the  town  council.  The  tower  con- 
tains a  splendid  peal  of  bells,  which  were  formally 
inaugurated  on  May  21,  1873,  on  which  day  also  the 
memorial  stone  of  the  restoration  was  laid  with  masonic 
honours.  Previous  to  the  restoration  the  Old  Steeple 
had  a  clock,  with  four  dials  ;  but  those  were  abolished, 
as  not  being  in  harmony  with  the  architectural  features 
of  the  venerable  pile  ;  but  in  1882,  in  deference  to 
public  opinion,  the  town  council  restored  the  clock,  sub- 
stituting ornamental  skeleton  dials,  at  a  cost  of  £130. 
The  Old  Town's  Cross,  originally  erected  in  1586,  at 
first  in  the  Seagate,  at  the  S  end  of  Peter  Street,  subse- 
quently in  the  middle  of  the  High  Street,  now  stands 
to  the  S  of  the  Old  Steeple  ;  was  removed  from  the  High 
Street  in  1777,  the  place  where  it  stood  being  still  indi- 
cated by  the  stones  being  arranged  in  a  circular  form  ; 
for  many  years  the  stones  forming  the  Old  Cross  were 
stowed  away  about  the  base  of  tlic  Old  Steeple  ;  and 
were  re-erected  in  their  present  position  in  1876.  The 
shaft,  which  is  still  in  a  pretty  good  state  of  preserva- 
tion, is  the  original  one ;  but  the  unicorn  is  a  reproduction, 
the  original  having  been  so  broken  and  decayed  as  to  be 
incapable  of  restoration.  At  tlie  top  of  one  of  the  sides 
of  the  shaft  are  the  burgh  arms,  \\-ith  the  town's  motto, 
'  Dei  Donum,'  now  somewhat  obliterated,  and  the  date 
1586. 

The  Cowgate  Port,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
street  which  bears  this  name,  has  a  central  archway. 


DUNDEE 

8i  feet  wide  and  11  liigh  ;  but  must  have  been  higher 
originally,  as  the  ground  has  been  raised  in  the  course 
of  years  ;  has  been  frequently  'improved,'  the  most 
recent  ha^ang  been  in  1877,  when  a  plate  was  fixed  on 
the  outer  or  E  side,  with  the  following  inscription  : — 
'  During  the  plague  of  1544  George  Wishart  preached 
from  the  parapet  of  this  port,  the  people  standing  within 
the  gate,  and  tlie  plague-stricken  lying  without  in 
booths.  "He  sent  His  Word  and  healed  them" 
(Psalm  cvii.).  Restored  in  1877.'  Dundee  was  in  olden 
times  the  occasional  residence  of  royalty,  and  a  palace 
formerly  stood  on  the  S  side  of  the  Nethergate  (then 
known  as  Fleukargate),  a  little  to  the  Eof  Union  Street. 
A  close  leading  from  the  Nethergate  still  bears  this 
name,  but  the  only  portion  of  the  original  wall  of  the 
palace  that  now  remains,  and  has  traces  of  antique 
carving  upon  it,  is  now  doomed  to  demolition  in  the 
course  of  contemplated  town  improvements.  In  March 
1879  an  old  building  on  the  N  side  of  High  Street, 
nearly  opposite  the  top  of  Crichton  Street,  and  known 
as  '  Our  Lady  Warkstair's  Land, '  was  taken  down  ;  was 
four  stories  in  height ;  had  a  wooden  front  with  two 
triangular  elevations  ;  was  supposed  to  have  been  buUt 
about  the  year  1500,  to  have  been  a  repository  of  a  charity 
or  almshouse  under  the  church,  and  dedicated,  according 
to  the  fashion  of  the  times,  to  Our  Lady  the  Virgin. 
The  old  Custom  House,  at  the  corner  of  Fish  Street  and 
Greenmarket,  is  another  ancient  building  destined  to 
early  demolition ;  furnished  the  scene  of  many  of  the 
incidents  in  the  novel  of  The  Yellow  Frigate,  by  Mr 
James  Grant ;  and  is  remarkable  from  the  fact  that,  at 
the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  a  large  quantity  of 
silver  coin,  numbering  nearly  200  pieces,  was  found  em- 
bedded in  the  mortar — this  money,  it  is  believed,  having 
been  concealed  by  some  townsman  prior  to  the  siege  of 
the  to^-n  in  1651.  The  Luckenbooths  stood  at  the  eastern 
end  of  the  Overgate,  where  it  joins  the  High  Street,  and 
is  still  recognisable  by  the  flat-capped  turret  at  its  north- 
eastern angle,  and  is  noteworthy  as  having  been  the 
residence  of  General  Monk,  after  he  captured  the  town, 
and  as  being  the  birthplace  of  Anne  Scott,  Countess  of 
Buccleuch.  Dudhope  Castle,  originally  the  principal 
seat  of  the  Scrymseours,  hereditary  constables  of  Dundee, 
and  situated  on  a  terrace  at  the  foot  of  the  Law,  is  now 
used  as  an  infantry  barracks  ;  towards  the  end  of  last 
century  was  turned  into  a  woollen  manufactory,  which 
proving  unsuccessful  the  building  passed  into  the  hands 
of  the  Government,  in  whose  possession  it  has  since  re- 
mained. In  quite  recent  years  the  removal  of  the 
Trades'  Hall  at  the  E,  and  of  Union  Hall,  at  the  W  end 
of  High  Street,  has  caused  two  well-known  public 
buildings  to  disappear  from  \aew,  whilst  greatly  improv- 
ing that  central  thoroughfare. 

The  increase  of  Dundee  has  been  strikingly  exhibited 
in  its  population,  which  has  almost  quadrupled  in  a 
single  generation  :— 1841,  63,732;  1861,  90,426;  1871, 
120,547  ;  1881,  140,054.  The  municipal  and  parlia- 
mentary constituency  was— 1871,  16,281  ;  1877, 18,964  ; 
1881,  15,827.  The  revenue  of  the  town  proper — known 
as  the  '  common  good ' — consists  of  lands,  houses, 
churches,  and  salmon  fishings,  and  has  varied  consider- 
ably at  different  periods,  and  now  amounts  to  about 
£6000  annually.  The  revenue  from  the  common  good, 
however,  is  dwarfed  by  that  of  the  several  Boards  into 
which  the  Town  Council  has  been  constituted  by  recent 
acts  of  parliament.  The  accounts  for  the  year  1881 
showed  that  as  a  police  board  it  raised  £93,878,  ex- 
pended £96,211,  and  had  a  debt  of  £687,037.  As  a 
water  commission  it  raised  £37,532,  expended  £39,440, 
and  had  a  debt  of  £430,938.  The  harbour  board,  to 
which  it  ajipoints  members,  had  a  revenue  of  £50,103, 
expended  £45,533,  and  had  a  debt  of  £349,621.  The 
gas  commission  had  a  revenue  of  £58,609,  expended 
£61,238,  and  had  a  debt  of  £121,309.  In  addition,  the 
school-board  had  arevenueof  £22,217, expended£20,444, 
and  had  a  debt  of  £60,995.  The  comliination  parochial 
board  raised  £25,786,  expended  £26,052,  and  had  a  debt 
of  £15,466.  Several  other  minor  boards  brought  the 
revenue  of  the  various  public  corporations  for  1881  to 


DUNDEE 

£303,991,  the  expenditure  to  £303,121,  and  the  total 
debt  to  £1,724,258.  The  increase  in  the  value  of  ground 
in  Dundee  has  been  very  remarkable.  According  to  an 
authentic  statement,  in  1746  '  the  highest  rent  in  the 
High  Street  did  not  exceed  £3,'  and  some  extraordinary 
instances  are  recorded  of  the  manner  in  which  property 
has  since  risen  in  value.  A  wood-yard,  bought  at  the 
beginning  of  the  century  for  £600,  was  sold  in  1826  for 
£5000 ;  and  in  1835  it  was  resold  in  portions  at  prices 
which  brought  the  total  purchase-money  up  to  £15,000. 
In  more  recent  years  the  same  upward  tendencies  have 
been  exhibited.  In  1858  a  tenement  on  the  AV  side  of 
Reform  Street  to  the  N  of  Bank  Street  was  purchased  at 
equal  to  £1600  ;  in  1875  it  was  sold  at  £4500.  In  1867 
a  shop  in  the  W  side  of  Union  Street  was  sold  by  public 
roup  at  £750 ;  at  the  end  of  1876  it  was  resold  at 
£3200.  In  1859  a  property  in  the  High  Street  was 
purchased  at  £1400  ;  it  was  resold  in  1873  at  £5250. 
In  like  manner,  the  feuing  of  ground  in  the  centre  of 
the  town  has  greatly  increased,  and  in  some  instances  in 
recent  times  has  been  known  to  be  trebled  in  about 
three  years.  Union  Street  was  opened  up  in  1828,  when 
the  population  of  Dundee  was  some  40,000.  The  lots 
on  either  side  of  this  street  were  sold  at  feu-duties  rang- 
ing from  £2,  6s.  Id.  to  £8,  17s.  2d.  per  pole.  Reform 
Street  was  opened  up  about  the  year  1833,  and  the  feus 
in  it  vary  from  £2,  Os.  lOd.  to  £19,  16s.  5d.  per  pole. 
Panmure  Street,  the  next  of  the  more  important  im- 
provements of  Dundee,  was  opened  about  the  year  1841. 
The  feu-duties  there  ranged  from  £3,  4s.  to  £15,  9s.  2d. 
per  pole.  Bank  Street  followed,  and  was  given  off  at 
rates  varying  from  £1,  10s.  lid.  to  £3,  4s.  Lindsay 
Street  was  opened  up  earlier  than  Bank  Street  or  Pan- 
mure  Street ;  and  the  rate  varied  from  about  £1,  15s. 
to  about  £2,  16s.  lOd.  per  pole.  Under  the  operation 
of  the  Improvement  Act  of  1871,  the  whole  property 
constituting  what  is  called  the  Victoria  Road  Improve- 
ment has  been  feued  by  the  commissioners  of  police  at 
rates  varying  from  £3,  lOs.  6d.  to  about  £19,  14s.  8d.  per 
pole  ;  while  the  feus  in  the  centre  of  the  town  have 
gone  up  to  rates  varying  from  £28,  5s.  4d.  to  £35, 
13s.  7d.  per  pole.  If  Lindsay  Street  be  contrasted  with 
Victoria  Road— and  the  contrast  in  point  of  situation 
appears  to  be  all  in  favour  of  Lindsay  Street — we  have 
on  the  whole  an  increase  of  fully  400  per  cent.  ;  and  if 
Reform  Street  be  contrasted  with  the  new  feus  in  the 
centre  of  the  town — in  other  words,  with  the  new  Com- 
mercial Street  feus — there  is  an  increase  on  the  average 
of  fully  300  per  cent.  also.  This,  in  little  more  than  a 
generation — viz.,  from  say  1830  to  1877 — is  marvellous. 
The  details  of  purchases  along  Victoria  Road  are  pro- 
bably even  more  instructive.  For  instance,  the  pro- 
perty in  Lady  well  Lane  belonging  to  the  town  of  Dun- 
dee was  sold  to  the  police  commissioners  in  1872  at 
about  £3  per  pole,  and,  after  providing  for  the  formation 
of  the  street,  what  remained  was  refeued  at  double  that 
rate.  The  same  remark  applies  to  the  property  on  the 
W  side  of  Powrie  Lane  ;  while,  with  regard  to  property 
in  Bucklemaker  Wynd,  purchased  by  the  police  com- 
missioners in  1870  at  equal  to  £1,  12s.  per  pole,  it  was 
feued  to  the  Victoria  Road  Calendering  Company  at 
equal  to  £3,  16s.  3d.  per  pole.  The  upward  tendency 
in  the  value  of  property  and  ground,  however,  received 
a  severe  check  in  1877,  and  for  a  number  of  years  sub- 
sequently there  was  a  continuous  deterioration  in  values. 
Under  the  extended  powers  of  the  Town  Council,  a  large 
number  of  assessments  of  different  kinds  are  now  levied. 
The  tendency  of  late  years  has  been  to  have  these  re- 
duced. The  following  was  the  assessable  rental  of  the 
town,  and  the  rates  per  £1  of  the  police  and  other  burgh 
assessments  for  a  series  of  years — 1831,  £72,821,  rate 
Is.  3d.  ;  1841,  £107,126,  rate  Is.  5d.;  1851,  £111,003, 
rate  Is.  2d.  ;  1861,  £209,333,  rate  Is.  ll^d.  ;  1871, 
£370,122,  rate  Is.  6d.  ;  1876,  £541,551,  rate  Is.  lid.  ; 
1880,  £588,829,  rate  Is.  lid. ;  1881,  £595,570,  rate 
Is.  lljd.  The  Improvement  Act  of  1871  did  very 
much  to  improve  tlie  town,  by  procuring  the  demoli- 
tion of  old  and  dilapidated  buildings,  widening  the 
leading  and  more  crowded  thoroughfares,  and  forming 

415 


DUNDEE 

additional  means  of  communication  between  important 
business  parts  of  the  town.  A  spacious  thorough- 
fare, known  as  Victoria  Road,  has  been  constructed 
along  what  used  to  be  known  as  Bucklemaker  "Wynd, 
extending  from  Bell  Street  to  Cotton  Road,  substi- 
tuting a  handsome  street,  60  feet  wide,  for  the  gullet 
of  the  Bucklemaker  Wynd,  which  had  only  13  feet  of  a 
carriage-way,  and  over  which  at  least  1000  vehicles  daily 
passed  and  repassed.  A  commodious  bridge  was  also 
constructed  across  the  Dens,  now  known  as  Victoria 
Bridge,  connecting  the  south-eastern  district  of  the 
town  with  the  north-eastern.  The  approaches  to  the 
eastern  district  by  Powrie  Lane  and  Water  Wynd  have 
been  greatly  improved.  The  continuation  of  Commercial 
Street,  between  Meadowside  and  the  Murraygate,  not 
only  gives  a  short  cut  from  the  High  Street  to  the  Ex- 
change, but  also  provides  a  large  number  of  first-class 
shops  and  business  premises.  The  ^videning  of  what 
was  previously  known  as  the  Narrow  of  the  Murraygate, 
by  demolishing  all  the  old  buildings  between  it  and  the 
Seagate,  has  got  rid  of  a  description  of  property  which 
was  a  disgrace  to  the  town.  The  opening  up  of  the 
High  Street  by  the  removal  of  the  Clydesdale  Bank  at 
one  end  and  the  Union  Hall  at  the  other,  and  the 
removal  of  the  old  houses  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Fish 
Street,  are  all  palpable  improvements.  The  gross  value 
of  the  property  schedvded  for  these  extensive  improve- 
ments was  £400,000,  the  police  commissioners  having 
jjower  to  borrow  to  the  extent  of  £200,000,  and  to  levy 
an  improvement  rate  of  4d.  in  the  £1. 

The  Town- Hall  stands  on  the  S  side  of  the  High 
Street ;  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  church  of  St  Clement ; 
was  erected  in  1734,  after  designs  by  the  elder  Adam  ; 
projects  several  feet  from  the  line  of  the  adjacent  build- 
ings ;  is  in  the  Roman  style,  with  piazzas  and  Ionic 
pilasters ;  is  surmounted,  through  the  roof,  by  a  spire 
140  feet  high,  in  which  is  a  clock,  with  bells  that  chime 
every  quarter  of  an  hour ;  underwent  restoration  in 
1853-54 ;  contains  the  council  chamber,  the  guildhall, 
and  the  offices  of  the  town  clerk.  The  new  Town-Hall, 
erected  to  the  rear  of  the  town  buildings,  was  erected  in 
1873,  and  is  now  used  as  the  offices  of  the  Dundee  Com- 
bination Parochial  Board.  The  Royal  Arch,  on  the  S 
side  of  Dock  Street,  was  erected  in  1853,  to  comme- 
morate the  landing  of  the  Queen  at  Dundee  in  Sept. 
1844,  by  public  subscription  at  a  cost  of  more  than 
£3000,  towards  which  the  harbour  trustees  voted  £500 
and  the  late  Lord  Panmure  contributed  £750  ;  com- 
prises a  great  central  arch  and  two  side  arches,  sur- 
mounted by  two  central  turrets  ;  and  is  in  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  stjde,  with  profuse  ornamentation.  The  Custom- 
House  stands  at  the  E  end  of  Dock  Street ;  was  erected 
in  1843  at  a  cost  of  £8000;  is  a  large  fine  structure, 
with  a  portico  in  the  Roman  Ionic  style  ;  and  contains 
accommodation  for  the  Customs,  the  Excise,  and  the 
Harbour  Trust.  The  Albert  Institute  stands  in  the 
centre  of  Albert  Square ;  was  erected  in  1865-68  as  a 
subscription  memorial  to  the  late  Prince  Consort,  after 
designs  by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott ;  stood  then  and  for  some 
years  afterwards  incomplete,  with  an  unsightly  gap  in 
its  SW  wing  ;  was  nevertheless  even  then  an  imposing 
structure,  particularly  in  its  northern  front ;  is  in  the 
Gothic  style,  with  an  exquisite  wheel  window  in  the 
N  gable,  a  splendid  flieche  on  the  summit,  and  other 
richly  artistic  features  ;  contains  in  the  upper  story  a 
noble  hall,  with  fine  open  roof,  and  has  a  commodious 
suite  of  rooms  attached  ;  the  eastern  portion,  used  as  a 
free  museum  and  picture  gallery  under  the  provisions 
of  the  Free  Libraries  Act,  was  completed  in  1874,  having 
been  erected  from  a  plan  by  Mr  D.'  M'Kenzie,  a  local 
architect ;  has  a  public  fountain  on  the  E,  which  is  made 
to  play  on  certain  special  occasions,  the  architectural 
features  being  in  keeping  with  the  nature  of  the  ground 
and  the  style  of  the  Institute  buildings  ;  the  basins  arc 
of  Polmaise  stone,  flanked  by  polished  shafts  of  Peter- 
head granite,  and  ornamented  with  carved  heads  of 
lions,  etc.  The  Albert  Institute  having  been  wound  up, 
the  building  was,  on  March  28,  1879,  put  up  for  sale  by 
public  auction,  and  acquired  by  the  Corporation  for  the 
416 


DUNDEE 

nominal  upset  price  of  £1000,  it  being  a  condition  of 
sale  that  the  building  shall  not  be  otherwise  used  than 
for  a  philosophical  institute,  comprising  a  museum, 
lecture-rooms,  reading-rooms,  and  picture  gallery  ;  and 
that  they  shall  in  all  time  coming  be  appropriated  to 
the  purposes  for  which  they  were  originally  designed. 
The  Ro3-al  Exchange  stands  at  the  N  end  of  Panmure 
Street ;  was  built  in  1853-56,  after  designs  by  David 
Bryce,  of  Edinburgh,  at  a  cost  of  more  than  £12,000  ;  is 
an  elegant  structure  in  the  Flemish  style  of  the  15th 
century,  common  in  Brussels  and  other  large  towns  of 
the  Low  Countries  ;  shows  a  side  frontage  of  two  stories, 
surmounted  by  a  range  of  dormer  windows,  with 
traceried  heads  and  crocketed  gables  ;  contains  a  lofty 
handsome  hall,  or  reading-room,  77  feet  long  and  34 
wide,  with  fine  ornamented  roof ;  and  has  a  tower  which 
was  intended  to  be  120  feet  high,  with  a  stone  crown, 
but  could  not  be  finished  in  consequence  of  the  gi'ound 
beneath  it  threatening  to  sink,  and  was  terminated  at 
only  one  stage  above  the  main  building,  in  a  curved 
parapet  and  flat  roof.  The  Eastern  Club  stands  on 
the  S  side  of  Albert  Square,  opposite  the  Albert  In- 
stitute ;  was  erected  in  1870  ;  is  in  the  Venetian  style; 
and  has  a  highly  ornate  front.  The  Court -House 
buildings,  for  the  holding  of  justiciary  and  sheriff 
courts,  are  in  West  Bell  Street ;  consist  of  a  long-drawn 
and  lofty  range  of  massive  stone  buildings  ;  were  erected 
in  1864-65,  with  aid  of  £13,587  from  government ;  and 
are  a  handsome  and  spacious  edifice,  with  portico  sur- 
mounted by  the  royal  arms  in  bold  relief.  The  Kinloch 
monument  stands  to  the  NW  of  the  Albert  Institute, 
facing  towards  the  SW  ;  commemorates  George  Kinloch, 
the  first  member  for  Dundee  in  the  reformed  parliament ; 
was  inaugurated  on  Feb.  3,  1872  ;  and  consists  of  a 
bronze  statue  by  Sir  John  Steell,  R.S.A.,  of  Edinburgh, 
about  8  feet  high.  The  Carmichael  statue  stands  to  the 
SE  of  the  Albert  Institute  ;  was  erected  by  public  sub- 
scription to  commemorate  the  leading  member  of  the 
firm  of  James  and  Charles  Carmichael,  iron-founders, 
who  conferred  a  boon  upon  the  trade  with  which  he  was 
connected  by  the  invention  of  the  fan  blast ;  the  sculptor 
was  Mr  John  Hutchison,  R.S.A. ,  of  Edinburgh,  and  the 
statue  was  cast  in  bronze  at  the  Manor  Iron-works, 
Chelsea  ;  the  figure  is  in  a  sitting  posture,  and,  including 
the  red  granite  pedestal,  the  monument  stands  about  18 
feet  high  ;  the  statue  was  formally  unveiled  on  June  17, 
1876.  The  Burns  statue  stands  to  the  SW  of  the  Albert 
Institute  ;  is  by  Sir  John  Steell,  being  a  replica  in  bronze 
of  a  statue  sent  to  New  York,  and  represents  the  poet  in 
a  sitting  posture  ;  the  figure  is  colossal,  being  about  12 
feet  in  height ;  the  cost  of  the  replica  was  1000  guineas, 
and  of  the  pedestal,  which  is  of  Peterhead  gi'anite,  £230 ; 
the  total  cost  of  the  work  was  about  £1400,  the  greater 
portion  of  which  was  raised  by  means  of  a  bazaar  ;  the 
statue  was  formally  unveiled  on  Oct.  16,  1880,  on  which 
occasion  a  grand  procession,  numbering  between  6000 
and  7000  persons,  and  composed  of  representatives  of  the 
different  trades,  took  place.  The  j\Iarket  Shelter  is 
opposite  the  Albert  Institute  on  the  N  side,  and  in  a 
recess  at  the  W  end  of  the  Exchange  buildings  ;  was 
erected  for  the  accommodation  of  the  gentlemen  attend- 
ing the  market,  which  is  held  on  the  street  facing  the 
Exchange  ;  is  123  feet  long,  36  feet  wide,  and  in  the 
centre  of  the  roof  25  feet  higli ;  has  an  open  passage,  aver- 
aging 8  feet  in  width,  at  the  two  ends  and  at  the  back  ; 
has  three  entrances  open  from  Albert  Square,  one  at 
each  end  of  the  market  and  one  in  the  centre  ;  and  was 
opened  for  business  in  the  summer  of  1882.  The  Kinnaird 
Hall  is  on  the  S  side  of  I<ank  Street ;  was  erected  in 
1856-58  after  designs  by  Charles  Edward,  of  Dundee  ; 
contains  a  hall  130  feet  long,  60  wide,  and  40  high, 
capable  of  accommodating  from  2500  to  3000  persons  ; 
has  a  fine  open  roof  supported  by  iron  girders,  and  the 
side  walls  are  tastefully  decorated  ;  and  has  a  fine  organ, 
built  by  Messrs  Fosters  &  Andrews,  of  Hull,  and  in- 
augurated on  Oct.  5,  1865.  The  Volunteer  Drill  Hall, 
on  the  N  side  of  West  Bell  Street,  is  a  plain  brick  build- 
ing of  ample  proportions  ;  is  160  feet  in  length,  including 
one  gallery,  80  feet  in  breadth,  and  42  feet  in  height 


DUNDEE 

to  the  apex  of  the  roof;  and  was  erected  in  1867, 
mainly  by  means  of  subscriptious  among  the  friends  of 
the  volunteer  movement.  The  other  public  halls  are — 
Albion,  Overgate  ;  Ancient  Mason  Lodge,  High  Street ; 
Arcade,  Arcade  Buildings ;  Buchan's,  Bank  Street  ; 
Camperdown,  Barrack  Street  ;  Cutlers',  Murraygate  ; 
Dimdee,  Barrack  Street ;  Forfar  and  Kincardine  JIason 
Lodge,  Meadow  Street ;  Good  Templars',  Reform  Street ; 
Gray's  Assembly  Rooms,  Perth  Road  ;  Lai'cli  Street ; 
Operative  Mason  Lodge,  Overgate  ;  Operative  Tailors, 
Overgate ;  Panmure,  Bain  Square ;  Plasterers',  Tally 
Street ;  Smellie's,  Barrack  Street ;  Strathmore,  Sea 
WjTid,  iSTethergate ;  Thistle,  Union  Street ;  Trades', 
King's  Road  ;  Victoria,  Victoria  Road  ;  Wellgate  ;  and 
"Wright's,  Key's  Close,  Nethergate. 

Three  parish  churches  under  one  roof — called  vari- 
ously St  Mary's,  St  Paul's,  and  St  Clement's  ;  the  East, 
the  South,  and  the  "West ;  the  Old,  the  New,  and  the 
Steeple — stand  between  Overgate  and  Nethergate,  near 
the  "W  end  of  High  Street ;  are  adjoined,  at  their  western 
extremity,  by  a  massive  ancient  tower  156  feet  high ; 
and  form  a  cathedral-looking  structure,  both  historically 
interesting  and  scenically  prominent  and  imposing.  The 
pile  has  for  ages  been  popularly  called  tlie  to^^•n  churches 
and  the  tower  ;  and  it  is  conspicuous  at  once  as  visibly 
connecting  the  town  with  antiquit}-,  as  bulking  largely 
among  its  j^ublic  edifices,  and  as  constituting  the  most 
distinctive  feature  in  its  burghal  landscape.  "Whether 
seen  in  full  front,  or  seen  through  a  vista  from  any  part 
of  the  to\vn's  interior,  the  tower  looms  largely  in  the 
view,  looking  the  impersonation  of  Time  casting  its 
gloom  upon  the  evanescent  scenes  around  ;  or  se<?n  from 
any  point  or  distance  in  the  environs  or  in  the  circum- 
jacent county,  whether  from  the  E  or  fi'om  the  "W  or 
from  the  S,  the  tower  lifts  its  grand  bold  summit  high 
above  the  undulating  surface  of  a  sea  of  roofs,  and  sug- 
gests thoughts  of  many  generations  who  have  spent 
their  ephemeral  life  beneath  its  shadow.  The  churches 
oi'iginated  in  a  chapel  founded  somewhere  between  1196 
and  1200  by  Prince  David,  Earl  of  Huntingdon,  on 
gi'ound  then  beyond  the  limits  of  the  town,  and  long 
known  as  the  '  Kirk  in  the  Field  ; '  they  grew,  bj^  re- 
construction of  the  chapel  and  by  successive  extensions, 
into  a  gi'eat  cruciform  edifice  174  feet  long,  -with  a  choir 
95  feet  long,  29  broad,  and  54  high ;  they  comprised, 
besides  three  churches  of  the  same  names  as  the  present 
three,  a  fourth  one,  called  variously  St  John's,  the 
North,  and  the  Cross ;  they  suffered  damage  from  the 
English,  before  the  national  Union,  to  an  extent  which 
required  St  Clement's  to  be  entirely  rebuilt  in  1789  ; 
the)'  were  almost  totally  destroyed  b)*  accidental  fire  in 
Jan.  1841 ;  they  were  partly  restored,  but  mainly  reno- 
vated, in  periods  thence  till  1847,  after  designs  by 
Messrs  Bmm  &  Bryce,  of  Edinburgh,  at  a  cost  of  £11,135; 
they  retain  the  crucial  form  of  the  original  structures, 
with  the  choir  or  chancel  for  St  Mary's,  the  transept 
for  St  Paul's,  and  the  nave  for  St  Clement's  ;  and  they 
are  in  a  laudable  variety  of  the  Decorated  Pointed  style. 
St  Mary's  and  St  Paul's  were  entirely  rebuilt,  and  the 
former  has  a  very  fine  stained-glass  window ;  but  St 
Clement's  was  merely  restored,  and  is  an  extremely 
plain  portion  of  the  pUe.  The  tower,  which  has  already 
been  noticed,  is  the  only  part  of  the  early  pUe  now 
standing. 

St  John's  parish  church,  formerly  called  also  the 
North  or  Cross  Church,  ceased  at  the  burning  of  the 
town  churches  in  1841  to  stand  conjunct  with  St  ilary's, 
St  Paul's,  and  St  Clement's,  and  is  now  an  edifice  in 
South  Tay  Street,  formerly  used  as  a  Gaelic  church.  St 
Andrew's  Church,  on  the  N  side  of  the  Cowgate,  is  now 
the  oldest  established  church  in  the  town  ;  was  origin- 
ally built  in  1772  by  means  of  voluntary  subscriptions 
by  the  kirk-session  and  trades  of  that  i)eriod,  and  con- 
tinued to  be  owned  and  managed  by  them  as  a  pro- 
prietary body  until  1872,  when  the  congregation 
obtained  the  entire  management  and  control  of  the 
church,  and  of  the  property  connected  with  it  ;  was 
endowed  in  the  following  year,  and  put  on  the  footing 
of  one  of  the  parochial  charges  of  the  Church  of 
27 


DUNDEE 

Scotland  ;  is  a  plain  building  with  a  handsome  spire, 
which  rises  to  an  altitude  of  1-39  feet,  and  contains  a  set 
of  fine  musical  bells  ;  has  undergone  repeated  renova- 
tions, the  most  recent  being  in  1874,  when  extensive 
alterations,  both  internally  and  externally,  were  made 
ui<on  it,  costing  about  £2000.  Chapelshade  Church,  in 
Constitution  Road,  is  a  large,  plain-looking  building 
^vith  about  1200  sittings  ;  was  erected  into  a  parish 
church  in  1872,  with  a  suitable  district  attached.  St 
David's  Church  stands  in  North  Tay  Street ;  Avas 
originally  an  Independent  chapel,  built  in  1800  ;  passed 
by  sale  to  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1823  ;  is  exteriorly 
a  very  plain  edifice,  but  interiorly  handsome  ;  and  con- 
tains neaid}'  2000  sittings.  "Wallaceto^vn  Church  was 
opened  in  May  1840,  and  in  March  1874  was  erected 
into  a  parish  quoad  sacra.  St  Mark's  stands  in  Perth 
Road  ;  was  built  in  1869,  after  designs  by  Pilkington 
and  Bell,  at  a  cost  of  £6000  ;  and  is  highly  ornamental. 
St  Enoch's,  in  Nethergate,  was  originally  a  Free  church, 
erected  in  1873,  standing  on  the  street  line  adjoined  by 
other  buildings ;  has  a  highlj'  effective  character ;  and 
was  erected  into  a  parish  church  in  March  1876. 
Rosebank  Church,  in  Constitution  Street,  was  erected 
as  a  mission  station  in  1872  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £2000  ; 
is  a  Gothic  structure  in  the  Early  Church  form,  with 
about  600  sittings  ;  and  in  Jan.  1875  was  erected  into  a 
parish  church.  St  Matthew's,  in  the  Ferry  Road,  is  in 
the  Early  English  Gothic  style,  with  transepts  ;  stands 
in  a  district  inhabited  chiefly  by  the  poor  and  working- 
classes  ;  and  was  built  in  1875,  as  a  chapel  of  ease,  at  a 
cost  of  about  £3400.  Clepington  Church  is  in  the 
Early  English  style  ;  was  the  last  of  five  churches  built 
under  a  scheme  for  providing  additional  accommodation 
for  members  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  Dundee  ;  and 
was  opened  on  Jan.  16,  1881.  St  Paul's  Free  Church, 
in  Nethergate,  was  built  in  1852,  after  designs  by 
Charles  "Wilson,  of  Glasgow,  at  a  cost  of  about  £5000 ; 
is  a  cruciform  structure  in  the  Early  Pointed  style  ;  and 
has  a  finely  proportioned  spire  167  feet  high.  St  Peter's 
Free  Church,  in  St  Peter  Street,  was  built  in  1836  ;  is 
a  plain  structure,  \\-ith  a  neat  spire  containing  a  peal  of 
bells  rung  by  water  power ;  and  was  the  scene  of  the 
ministry  of  the  lamented  M'Cheyne.  The  M'Che}'ne 
]\Iemorial  Church,  in  Perth  Road,  was  built  in  1871 
after  designs  by  Pilkington  &  Bell,  and  is  an  edifice 
tastefully  and  elaborately  ornate.  Chapelshade,  Wal- 
lacetown,  Dudhope,  Chalmers,  Wellgate,  "Willison,  and 
the  Hig"!!  Free  churches  are  all  tasteful  edifices  ;  but 
St  Andrew's,  St  David's,  St  John's,  Hilltown,  Bonnet- 
hill,  and  Ogilvie  Free  churches  are  remarkably  plain 
structures.  The  Bell  Street  U.P.  Church  is  a  massive, 
elegant,  and  spacious  edifice.  School  "Wynd  Church, 
known  also  as  George's  Chapel,  in  Lindsay  Street, 
erected  in  1825,  was  for  42  years  the  scene  of  the  pas- 
toral labours  of  George  Gilfillan.  The  Dudhope  Road 
U.P.  Church  superseded  a  previous  one  in  Temple  Lane ; 
was  built  in  1870  after  designs  by  Pilkington  &  Bell ; 
and  is  a  handsome  structure.  Tlie  Tay  Square,  Cowgate 
or  "Wishart,  James',  as  well  as  those  in  Buttcrburn, 
Victoria  Street,  and  Ryehill,  are  internally  comfortable, 
but  externally  plain.  The  GUfillan  Memorial  Church, 
formed  of  adherents  of  the  Rev.  David  Macrae, 
deposed  from  the  ministry  of  the  U.P.  Church 
in  1879,  and  who  number  over  1300,  temporarily 
worship  in  the  Kinnaird  Hall.  The  Reformed  Pres- 
byterian Church  and  the  Original  Secession  churches, 
are  small  but  substantial  buildings.  Of  the  Con- 
gregationalist  places  of  worship  the  oldest  is  "Ward 
Chapel  in  Constitution  Road ;  was  built  in  1833 
after  designs  by  Jlr  Smith,  of  Dundee ;  and  is  a  beautiful 
edifice  in  the  Second  Pointed  style.  Panmure  Street 
Chapel  was  built  in  1855  after  designs  by  Mr  Bryce,  of 
Edinburgh,  and  is  a  i)icturesque  structure  with  a  boldly 
traced  circular  window  and  two  octagonal  towers. 
Castle  Street,  Lindsay  Street,  Princes  Street,  and  Rus- 
sell Congregational  chapels  are  all  rcsjicctable.  The 
old  Scotch  Independent  Chapel,  in  Euclid  Street,  was 
built  after  designs  by  Mr  Maclaren,  of  Dundee,  and  is  a 
handsome  edifice.     Trinity  and  St  James's  Evangelical 

417 


DUNDEE 

Union  chapels  are  plain  but  comfortable  buildings. 
Baptist  chapels  are  in  Rattraj-  Street  and  in  Long  Wynd, 
the  former  being  erected  in  1878  in  place  of  a  chapel  in 
Meadowside  that  had  to  be  removed  to  make  way  for  the 
town  improvements.  The  Catholic  Apostolic  Church, 
at  the  corner  of  Constitution  Road  and  Dudhope  Cres- 
cent Road,  is  a  very  handsome  edifice,  and  is  divided 
into  nave  and  aisles,  the  latter  being  lighted  by  two 
light  ^vindows,  and  the  nave  from  a  clerestorj'.  Wcs- 
leyan  Methodist  chapels  are  iu  Ward  Road  and  Welling- 
ton Street ;  both  are  neat  structures  ;  and  the  latter  was 
built  in  1869  after  designs  by  Alexander  Johnston,  of 
Dundee.  The  Unitarian  Christian  Chapel,  in  Constitu- 
tion Road,  was  built  in  1870,  also  after  designs  by 
Alexander  Johnston.  St  Paul's  Episcopalian  Church, 
at  the  top  of  Seagate,  was  built  in  1852-55,  after  designs 
by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  at  a  cost  of  £13,000  ;  is  in  the 
Second  Pointed  style,  of  crucial  form,  with  nave,  aisles, 
transepts,  chancel,  and  octagonal  apse  ;  has  both  a  noble 
exterior  and  a  very  beautiful  interior ;  and  is  surmounted, 
at  its  W  end,  by  a  tower  and  spire  rising  to  the  height 
of  220  feet,  and  figuring  conspicuously  in  almost  every 
view  of  the  town.  St  Mary  Magdalene's  Episcopalian 
Church,  in  Blinshall  Street,  is  a  recent  edifice  in  similar 
Et3'le  to  St  Paul's  Episcopalian  Church  but  of  smaller 
size,  and  erected  at  about  one-fifth  of  the  cost.  St 
Salvador's  Episcopalian  Church,  in  Clepington,  also  is  a 
recent  erection.  The  Catholic  Apostolic  Church,  in 
Constitution  Road,  was  built  in  1867  ;  is  a  large  and 
handsome  edifice  in  the  Pointed  style  ;  and  has  a  very 
tastefully  decorated  interior.  St  Andrew's  Roman 
Catholic  Church,  in  Nethergate,  was  built  in  1836  ;  is 
an  elegant  edifice  in  the  Pointed  stjde,  Anth  a  beautiful 
interior  ;  and  contains  1200  sittings.  St  Mary's  Roman 
Catholic  Church,  at  Forebank  in  Hilltown,  was  built  in 
1851 ;  has  a  plain 'exterior  in  Anglo-Saxon  style  and  a  very 
striking  and  gorgeous  interior;  and  contains  2500  sit- 
tings. St  Joseph's  Roman  Catholic  Chapel,  in  Wilkie's 
Lane,  was  built  in  1872-74  at  a  cost  of  about  £5000  ;  is 
a  cruciform  structure  147^  feet  in  length  from  N  to  S,  and 
40  in  width  in  both  nave  and  transepts  ;  and  contains 
1200  sittings.  The  Glassite  Meeting  House,  on  the  jST 
side  of  King  Street,  is  an  octagonal-shaped  building, 
having  a  very  plain  appearance.  Salem  Cliapel,  in  Con- 
stitution Road,  erected  in  1872,  is  a  neat  specimen  of 
Gothic  architecture. 

The  Howff  or  old  burying-ground  lies  off  Barrack 
Sti-eet ;  superseded  the  three  ancient  burying-groimds  of 
St  Paul,  St  Roque,  and  St  Clement,  all  now  quite  extinct ; 
was  formed,  about  1567,  in  what  had  been  the  garden  of 
the  Greyfriars'  Monastery  ;  became  so  crowded  and  in- 
sanitory  as  to  be  closed  by  order  of  the  Privy  Council  in 
1858  ;  and  equals  or  surpasses  every  other  old  burying- 
ground  in  Scotland,  not  excepting  that  of  the  Edinburgh 
Greyfriars,  in  the  number  and  variety  of  its  interesting 
old  monuments.  The  burying-ground,  on  the  W  side 
of  Constitution  Road,  was  opened  in  1836  ;  is  tastefully 
laid  out  in  mounds  and  walks ;  but,  like  the  Howff, 
is  now  closed  against  interments.  The  Western  Ceme- 
tery, on  the  N  side  of  Perth  Road,  was  opened  in  1845  ; 
comprises  six  acres,  beautifully  laid  out  in  compartments 
and  promenades  ;  has  a  very  grand  gateway  ;  and  con- 
tains a  monument  to  the  poet  William  Thorn,  who 
died  in  Dundee  in  1848.  The  Eastern  Necropolis,  on 
the  N  side  of  Arbroath  Road,  aljout  2  miles  from  High 
Street,  was  opened  in  1862  ;  is  laid  out  with  great  taste 
and  beauty  in  serpentine  walks  ;  and  has  an  admirably 
designed  gateway.  A  project  for  a  Roman  Catholic 
cemetery  was  started  about  1860,  and  won  some  contri- 
butions, but  fell  to  the  ground.  Balgay  Cemetery, 
which  occupies  the  western  portion  of  Balgay  Hill,  is 
very  tastefully  laid  out. 

The  I'axter  Park,  at  the  north-eastern  extremity  of 
the  town,  is  so  named  from  having  been  the  gift  of  the 
late  Sir  David  Baxter  and  his  two  sisters  ;  is  about  38 
acres  in  extent,  and  cost  the  donors  nearly  £40,000,  in 
addition  to  which  they  gave  a  sum  of  £10,000  for  the 
maintenance  of  the  park  in  all  time  coming;  and  is  well 
laid  out,  with  a  pavilion  in  the  centre  of  the  terrace  in 
il8 


DUNDEE 

which  is  a  marble  statue  of  Sir  David  Baxter,  erected 
by  public  subscription.  Balgay  Hill,  to  the  westward 
of  the  town,  was  acquired  by  the  police  commissioners 
of  the  burgh  as  a  place  of  public  recreation  in  1871  ; 
covers  60  acres  of  ground,  a  portion  of  which  has  been 
laid  out  as  a  cemetery ;  enjoys  the  advantage  of  hav- 
ing been  previously  beautifully  wooded  ;  commands  a 
gorgeous  view  over  all  the  lower  Tay  and  the  Carse  of 
GoAvrie,  with  their  periphery  of  hills  and  moimtains  ;  is 
encircled  with  a  drive  25  feet  wide,  and  intersected  with 
umbrageous  drives  and  walks,  looking  like  well-shaded 
avenues  ;  has  its  main  approach  on  the  S,  from  Black- 
ness Road,  through  a  handsome  entrance-lodge  in  the 
Scottish  Baronial  style  ;  and  has  two  other  approaches, 
respectively  on  the  W  from  Hillside  and  on  the  N  from 
the  Ancrum  Road.  The  cemetery  and  the  park  jointly 
cost  about  £13,000,  and  were  opened  by  the  late  Earl  of 
Dalhousie,  amid  gi-eat  public  demonstrations,  in  Sept. 
1871.  In  May  1882,  Sir  John  Ogilvy,  who  for  many 
years  was  one  of  the  Parliamentary  representatives  of 
Dundee,  made  a  gift  to  the  town  of  his  rights  in  the 
Fair  Muir,  a  field  about  12  acres  iu  extent,  Ijing  to  the 
N  of  the  town,  which  has  now  been  added  to  the 
parks  available  for  purposes  of  public  recreation. 
Dimdee  Law,  which  stands  to  the  N  of  the  town, 
has  also  been  acquired  by  the  police  commissioners  for 
use  as  a  public  pleasure-ground.  It  rises  gently  to  an 
elevation  of  571  feet  above  sea-level,  and  culminates  in 
a  round,  green  summit,  the  prospect  from  which  is  far- 
reaching  and  picturesque.  The  slopes  around  the  Law, 
where  not  built  upon,  are  cultivated.  On  the  summit 
are  the  vestiges  of  a  fortification,  said  to  have  been 
erected  by  Edward  I.  The  Magdalene  Green  is  an  open 
grassy  slope,  which  adjoins  the  river  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  N  end  of  the  Tay  Bridge,  and  is  famous  in 
local  history  for  the  large  public  gatherings  which  have 
taken  place  upon  it  in  times  of  political  agitation.  The 
esplanade,  adjoining  the  Magdalene  Green,  is  a  splendid 
marine  parade,  extending  to  the  Craig  Pier  ;  was  con- 
structed at  the  joint  expense  of  the  Caledonian  and 
North  British  Railway  Companies,  the  harbour  trustees, 
and  the  town  ;  and  was  opened  in  July  1875.  The 
Barrack  Park,  a  spacious  piece  of  ground  above  the 
barracks,  is  leased  from  the  government  by  the  corpora- 
tion as  a  place  of  public  recreation.  The  Bleaching 
Green  is  to  the  E  of  the  Barrack  Park,  and  whilst  prin- 
cipally used  as  an  adjunct  to  the  public  washing-house 
that  stands  in  the  centre,  is  also  available  to  the  public 
for  recreative  purposes. 

The  harbour  extends  from  Craig  Pier  on  the  W,  nearly 
opposite  Union  Street,  to  Carolina  Port  on  the  E  ;  lies 
almost  all,  like  the  harbours  of  Greenock  and  Liverpool, 
■vvithin  the  line  of  low-water  mark  ;  offers  commodious 
ingress  in  very  reduced  states  of  the  tide  ;  and  is  one  of 
the  finest,  safest,  and  most  convenient  harbours  in 
Great  Britain  ;  yet,  prior  to  1815,  had  no  better  accom- 
modations for  shipping  than  a  small  pier  and  a  few  ill- 
constructed  erections,  which  could  not  be  reached  by 
vessels  of  any  considerable  draught.  Between  1815  and 
1830,  at  an  aggi-egate  cost  of  £162,800,  a  wet-dock,  with 
a  graving-dock  attached  to  it,  was  constructed,  the  tide 
harbour  was  deepenad  and  extended,  sea-walls  and  ad- 
ditional quays  were  built,  and  various  other  improve- 
ments were  made.  The  wet-dock  then  constructed  beai-s 
the  name  of  King  William's  Dock,  covers  an  area  of  6J 
acres,  and  has  its  adjoining  graving-dock  in  correspond- 
ing proportion.  A  second  wet-dock  was  formed  subse- 
quent to  1830,  bears  the  name  of  Earl  Grey's  Dock,  and 
covers  5J  acres.  Two  other  wet-docks,  furtlicr  to  the 
E,  were  partially  formed  in  1863-65  and  completed  in 
1873-75  ;  bear  the  names  of  Camperdown  Dock  and 
Victoria  Dock;  cover  respectively  8h  and  10;^  acres; 
admit  vessels  drawing  20  feet  at  high  water  of  spring 
tides,  and  vessels  drawing  15i  feet  at  high  water  of  neap 
tides  ;  and  are  connected  with  a  new  graving-dock  for 
the  largest  class  of  vessels.  A  stupendous  crane,  by 
which  eight  men  easily  lift  a  weight  of  30  tons,  is  on 
the  quay  of  Earl  Grey's  Dock  ;  a  caisson,  on  a  new  and 
peculiar  principle,  and  working  with  great  facility  and 


DUNDEE 

ease,  is  at  the  entrance  of  Camperdown  Dock  ;  and  the 
great  outer  sea-wall  extends  considerably  to  the  E  and 
has  a  skilful  structure  and  a  massive  appearance.  All 
the  works  formed  from  1815  till  1875  are  considerably 
•within  the  range  of  high-water  mark,  leaving  an  im- 
portant space  of  ground  between  them  and  the  town  to 
be  occupied  as  the  site  of  buildings,  and  as  a  continua- 
tion of  Dock  Street ;  and  parts  of  them  are  also  within 
low-water  mark,  leaving  even  there,  between  the  wet- 
docks  and  the  sea,  a  space  for  warehouses  and  shipbuild- 
ing yards.  The  docks  are  accessible,  in  various  direc- 
tions, by  spacious  streets  or  roads ;  and  have  adaptations, 
in  every  way,  to  secure  the  speedy  and  effective  loading 
and  unloading  of  any  number  of  vessels  which  they  may 
contain.  The  Camperdown  and  Victoria  Docks  lie  the 
furthest  to  the  E,  and  are  used  mainly,  or  almost  entu-eh', 
by  the  vessels  of  largest  burden  ;  while  the  other  docks 
have  less  depth  of  water,  and  are  used  by  middle-class 
and  smaller  vessels.  By  an  act  of  parliament,  passed 
in  June  1830,  the  management  of  the  harbom-  was 
transferred  from  the  commissioners  appointed  under  a 
previous  statute  to  a  board  of  trustees,  elected  annually  ; 
and  by  "a  subsequent  act,  obtained  in  the  year  1869,  the 
constitution  of  this  trust  was  changed,  and  the  repre- 
sentation enlarged.  Previously,  the  board  consisted  of 
21  members ;  but  the  recognition  of  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  shipowners,  and  harbour  and  municipal 
ratepayers  as  elective  bodies,  increased  it  to  32.  Seven 
members  have  seats  coi  officio — the  provost,  4  bailies, 
the  dean  of  guild,  and  the  box-master  of  the  seamen 
fraternity  ;  the  county  elects  4,  the  guildry  6,  the  Nine 
Trades  3,  the  Three  Trades  1,  the  chamber  of  commerce 
3,  the  shipowners  3,  the  harbour  ratepayers  3,  and  the 
municipal  ratepayers  2.  Shipo-miers  are  cjualified  as 
electors  who  possess  100  tons  of  shipping  ;  and  the  har- 
bour ratepayers,  before  being  entitled  to  vote,  must  show 
that  they  have  paid  £10  of  rates  in  respect  of  vessels 
or  goods.  The  county  choose  their  representatives  at 
the  Michaelmas  meeting  in  October,  and  the  others  are 
elected  in  the  beginning  of  November.  The  trustees  of 
the  harbour  are  thus  in  all  respects  a  thoroughly  popular 
body,  elected  by  the  parliamentary  constituency  and 
others  who  have  the  deepest  interest  in  the  right  manage- 
ment of  the  harbour.  Of  late  years,  the  powers  of  the 
trust  have  been  greatly  increased,  and  their  jurisdiction 
has  been  correspondingly  extended.  In  1873,  they 
acquired  the  management  and  working  of  the  Tay 
Ferries  from  the  Caledonian  Railway  Company,  upon 
payment  of  a  sum  of  £20,000 — the  purchase  involving 
an  outlay  altogether  of  £35,000  ;  and  in  1875,  they 
entered  into  an  aiTangement  with  the  seamen  fraternity 
for  the  transference  of  the  lighting  and  buoying  of  the 
river  from  that  body  to  the  trust.  The  compensation 
paid  to  the  fratei'nity  was  a  sum  of  £15,000,  besides 
relieving  them  of  a  debt  of  £4060  due  to  the  public 
works  loan  commissioners.  This  arrangement  was 
sanctioned  by  an  act  of  parliament  passed  in  the  same 
year.  This  act  was  a  consolidated  measure,  and  repealed 
all  previous  legislation  subsequent  to  the  constitution  of 
the  trust,  Avith  the  exception  of  the  acts  regulating  the 
Tay  Ferries.  In  this  consolidated  act,  however — which 
may,  indeed,  be  said  to  be  the  Magna  Charta  of  the 
port  of  Dundee — all  the  previous  powers  and  privileges 
of  the  board  were  retained,  while  additional  ones  were 
conferred,  and  the  trustees  were  declared  to  be  the  con- 
servators of  the  river  Tay  and  estuary.  In  the  act  of  6 
and  7  Vict.,  chap.  83,  provision  was  made  for  the  gradual 
reduction  and  extinction  of  the  debt,  by  which  the  credit 
of  the  harbour  has  been  raised,  and  a  large  reduction 
obtained  in  the  rate  of  interest.  Compared  financially 
with  any  other  harbour  in  the  kingdom,  that  of  Dundee 
may  be  said  to  stand  pre-eminent ;  for  while  the  revenue 
has  more  than  doubled  in  tlic  last  20  years,  the  debt, 
notwithstanding  tlie  gigantic  works  tliat  have  been 
undertaken,  remains  about  the  same.  The  revenue  for 
1881  amounted  to  £50,163.  The  whole  of  the  moneys 
levied  or  leviable  b)'  the  trustees  under  their  different 
harbour  acts  are  exclusively  applied  to  the  maintenance 
and  extension  of  the  harbour  and  its  works ;  and  the 


DUNDEE 

surplus  of  the  revenue  over  the  expenditure  is  devoted 
to  paying  a  portion  of  the  new  works  rather  than  bor- 
rowing the  whole  sum.  The  gross  cost  of  the  harbour, 
in  1881,  was  £844,957,  and  the  debt  £349,621  ;  and 
the  whole  amount  has  been  borrowed  at  4  per  cent.  So 
well  have  tlie  affairs  of  the  harbour  been  managed,  that, 
since  the  year  1815,  surpluses  to  no  less  a  sum  than 
£278,000  have  been  ajiplied  to  the  extinction  of  debt. 
The  accounts  of  the  trustees  are  made  up  annually,  and 
audited  by  a  qualified  person  named  by  the  sheriff  of 
the  county ;  and  when  so  audited,  an  abstract  of  the 
accounts  is  printed  and  circulated.  The  following  table 
shows  the  progressive  state  of  the  finances  of  the  Dun- 
dee harbour  trust,  being  the  amount  of  revenue  and  ex- 
penditure in  the  various  years  ending  May  31,  with  the 
amount  of  debt  at  date  : — 


Year. 

Revenue. 

Expenditure. 

Debt. 

1S54 

£23,428 

£19,779 

£189,398 

1S60 

24,677 

20,446 

164,062 

1865 

29,879 

24,679 

210,808 

1870 

33,502 

24,813 

190,232 

1871 

40,638 

25,432 

194,073 

1872 

43,915 

31,585 

189,699 

1873 

41,316 

32,967 

237,308 

1874 

53,396 

34,839 

275,583 

1875 

45,233 

39,794 

318,367 

1876 

45,282 

38,947 

342,320 

1877 

50,751 

42,871 

350,405 

1878 

51,339 

43,890 

352,148 

1879 

46,906 

46,308 

360,183 

1880 

48,533 

44,143 

360,494 

1881 

50,163 

45,533 

349,621 

Attempts  have  from  time  to  time  been  made  to  esta- 
blish a  college  in  Dundee  ;  but  these  all  failed  until  Miss 
Baxter,  sister  of  the  late  Sir  David  Baxter,  and  Dr  J. 
B.  Baxter,  for  upwards  of  fifty  years  Procurator-Fiscal 
for  Dundee,  took  the  matter  in  hand.  In  Feb.  1882, 
the  details  of  a  scheme  which  had  previously  been  an- 
nounced were  made  public.  It  was  then  stated  that 
Miss  Baxter  and  Dr  Baxter  had  executed  a  deed  of  trust 
providing  a  simi  of  £140,000  for  the  foundation  of  the 
college.  For  £35,000  of  this  sum  St  John's  Free  Church, 
with  the  dwelling-houses  fronting  the  Nethergate  be- 
tween Small's  Wyud  and  Park  Place,  had  been  obtained, 
and  at  little  expense  could  be  converted  into  classrooms  ; 
while  £100,000  was  set  apart  as  an  endowment  for 
salaries  to  professors  and  other  charges,  the  income 
being  about  £4000  annually.  The  governing  body  had 
thus  from  the  beginning  a  larger  revenue  than  the 
governors  of  Owen's  College,  Manchester,  whose  endow- 
ment was  £90,000,  and  for  whom  no  site  or  buildings 
were  provided.  The  governing  body  is  divided  into 
three  branches — the  Governors,  the  Council,  and  the 
Education  Board.  The  Governors,  who  are  supreme  in 
the  management,  are  all  subscribers ;  the  Lord-Lieu- 
tenant and  Convener  of  the  county  of  Forfar ;  the 
members  of  Parliament  for  the  county  and  burghs  ;  the 
Sheriff  of  the  county  ;  the  Dean  of  Guild  of  Dundee  ;  a 
representative  from  the  Dundee  Chamber  of  Commerce  ; 
one  from  the  High  School  Directors  ;  and  one  from  the 
Committee  of  the  Free  Library.  The  Council,  which  is 
the  managing  body  of  the  College,  consists  of  18  mem- 
bers, 9  of  whom  are  elected  by  the  Governors.  The  ex 
officio  members  are  the  Provost  of  Dundee  ;  the  Sheriff- 
Substitutes  of  Dundee  and  at  Forfar ;  the  members  of 
Parliament  for  Dundee  ;  one  member  elected  by  Owen's 
College,  Manchester  ;  one  by  the  Lord  President  of  the 
Privy  Council  or  the  Minister  of  Education  ;  and  one 
by  the  Principal  and  Professors  of  the  College.  The 
Education  Board  consists  of  the  Principal  and  Professors, 
under  the  direction  of  the  Council  and  Governors.  The 
College  begins  its  work  with  Chairs  for  Natural  History 
and  Mathematics,  Cliemistry,  Classics  and  History,  and 
English  Literature  and  Language.  The  High  School 
stands  at  the  N  end  of  Reform  Street,  looking  down 
along  its  area,  and  facing  the  Albert  Institute ;  super- 
seded an  English  school,  a  grammar  school,  and  an 
academy,  dating  from  respectively  the  13th  century,  the 
16th  ceutuiy,  and  the  latter  part  of  the  18th  century  ; 

419 


DUNDEE 

was  built  in  1833,  after  designs  by  ilr  Angus,  at  a  cost  of 
more  than  £10,000  ;  is  in  the  Doric  style,  ^rith  a  portico 
of  eight  fluted  columns,  copied  from  the  Parthenon  of 
Athens  ;  contains  a  science  room,  measuring  42  feet  by 
40,  a  museum  room  of  the  same  dimensions,  another 
room  measuring  57  feet  by  30,  and  a  total  of  14  class- 
rooms ;  has  a  gravel  pla3-ground  of  about  an  acre  in 
extent ;  is  conducted  by  a  rector,  an  English  master,  a 
■\vriting  and  arithmetic  master,  a  comnnrcial  master,  a 
mathematical  master,  a  classical  master,  a  French  master, 
a  German  master,  and  a  master  of  science  and  art ;  alYords 
incomes  to  its  masters  ranging  from  £139  to  £480  ;  and 
is  governed  by  a  Board  of  Directors,  one-half  of  whom 
are  elected  by  the  annual  subscribers  to  the  institution, 
and  the  other  half  by  the  Town  Council.  When  the 
School-Board  was  formed  in  Dundee,  an  attempt  was 
made,  but  unsuccessfully,  to  transfer  the  management 
of  the  institution  to  that  body,  on  the  ground  that  it 
was  a  bm-gh  school.  The  proposal  was  revived  in  1880, 
and  expensive  litigation  was  threatened,  when  the  diffi- 
culty was  happily  solved  by  the  ofler  of  Sir  William 
Harris,  a  local  philanthropist,  to  give  £20,000  towards 
the  better  endowment  of  the  High  School,  and  £10,000 
to  the  School-Board  for  the  erection  of  a  secondary 
school,  on  condition  that  the  School-Board  agreed  to 
the  continuance  of  the  High  School  under  the  existing 
management — which  ofier  was  joyfully  accepted  by  all 
the  parties  interested.  During  the  period  that  the 
School-Board  has  been  established  in  Dundee,  it  has 
vigorously  carried  out  the  Education  Act  for  the  ele- 
mentary education  of  the  people,  and  a  number  of  new 
and  admirably  constructed  and  equipped  schools  have 
been  opened  by  them.  The  school  accommodation  re- 
qiured  was  supplied  by  a  sum  of  £60,000,  borrowed  from 
the  Public  Works  Loan  Commissioners,  at  a  low  rate  of 
interest,  and  on  a  scale  of  repayment  spread  over  forty 
years.  The  income  for  1880  was  £5498,  and  the  expen- 
diture £5588  ;  in  1881  the  income  was  £5697,  and  the 
expenditure  £5575.  The  assessment  imposed  by  the 
Board  has  varied  from  Id.  in  1874  to  3d.  in  1877.  Pri- 
vate schools  are  numerous,  various,  and  generally  good  ; 
some  of  high  mark  for  polite  education,  many  of  ordi- 
nary range  for  the  common  branches,  a  few  of  special 
adaptation  for  the  children  of  certain  classes  or  condi- 
tions of  the  community.  In  1861  a  Working  Men's 
College  was  commenced  in  Dundee ;  but,  after  two 
years'  working,  the  support  given  was  so  small  that  it 
nad  to  be  discontinued.  The  Young  Men's  Christian 
Association,  in  Constitution  Koad,  has  a  handsome  and 
commodious  buiWing  for  its  various  purposes,  including 
a  splendid  reading-room,  well  supplied  with  newspapers 
and  periodicals  ;  classrooms  for  young  men  engaged  in 
handicrafts  during  the  day,  where  instruction  is"  given 
in  those  higher  departments  of  education  likely  to  prove 
of  practical  value  to  them  in  their  several  occupations. 
Dundee  has  of  late  years  made  a  great  advance  in  the 
cultivation  of  music,  both  vocal  and  instrumental ;  and 
for  cultured  musical  talent  it  will  bear  comparison  with 
any  other  town  in  Scotland.  The  late  Mr  John  Curwen, 
President  of  the  Tonic  Sol-Fa  College  in  London,  at  a 
musical  demonstration  held  in  the  Kinnaird  Hall  on  30 
March  1880  (witlrin  two  montlis  of  his  death),  com- 
plimented Dundee  by  saying  that  it  had  more  well- 
taught  singing  and  more  well-trained  children,  in  pro- 
portion to  its  population,  than  any  other  town  he 
knew.  To  Dundee  also  belongs  the  honour  of  having 
introduced  the  novelty  of  giving  a  highly-successful 
rendering  of  Handel's  Afcssiah  by  children,  which  has 
been  performed  in  several  of  the  largest  towns  in  Scot- 
land by  a  imrty  of  youthful  choristers  trained  by  Mr 
Frank  Sharp.  Dundee  now  possesses  a  large  number 
of  musical  associations,  both  vocal  and  instrumental, 
and  concerts  are  now  periodically  given,  at  which  clas- 
sical music  is  interpreted  by  the  leading  vocalists  and 
instrumentalists  in  the  country. 

The   Morgan    Hospital   occupies   a   fine    site   at  the 

junction  of  the  Forfar  and  Brechin  roads,  immediately 

N  of  Baxter  Park  ;  sprang  from  a  bequest  of  £70,000  by 

John  Morgan,  a  native  of  Dundee,  who  amassed  a  large 

420 


DUNDEE 

fortune  in  India ;  was,  subsequent  to  considerable  liti- 
gation, erected  in  1863-66  after  designs  by  Peddie  and 
Kinncar,  of  Edinburgh  ;  is  in  the  Scottish  Baronial  style, 
with  four  facades,  enclosing  an  oblong  court  125  feet  by 
50  ;  has  a  main  front  183  feet  long,  surmounted  at  the 
centre  by  a  lofty  turreted  tower  ;  cost,  for  its  erection, 
about  £18,000  ;  is  surrounded  by  an  extensive  play- 
ground ;  and  gives  board  and  education,  somewhat  after 
the  manner  of  Heriot's  Hospital  in  Edinburgh,  to  about 
60  boys,  sons  of  respectable  parents,  belonging  to  Dun- 
dee and  other  towns  of  Forfarshire.  The  Industrial 
Schools  stand  in  Ward  Road,  in  front  of  the  new  Court- 
houses ;  were  erected  in  1856  after  designs  by  Mr 
Charles  Edward  ;  are  in  the  Early  English  style,  both 
pleasing  and  commodious  ;  were  originally  occupied  by 
both  boys  and  girls,  but  latterly  have  been  occupied  by 
girls  only.  For  the  boys  a  new  and  additional  institu- 
tion was,  in  1878,  erected  at  Baldovan,  about  3  miles  N 
from  Dundee,  on  a  site,  13  acres  in  extent,  feued  from 
Sir  John  Ogilvy,  where  a  handsome  building  in  the 
Gothic  style,  two  stories  high  and  180  feet  in  length,  was 
provided.  In  connection  with  the  Industrial  Schools,  a 
Home  for  Apprentice  Boys  was  opened  in  Ward  Road  on 
23  Nov.  1881,  in  which  accommodation  is  provided  for 
20  boys  who  had  left  the  institution,  and  were  serving 
apprenticeships  to  various  trades  in  Dundee.  In  1881 
there  were  195  boys  and  85  girls  in  the  Industrial 
Schools.  The  Royal  Orphan  Institution  stands  in  Ferry 
Road,  about  \l  mile  from  High  Street ;  superseded  an 
old  building,  amidst  crowded  tenements,  in  Small's 
Wjmd  ;  was  erected  in  1870  after  a  design  by  Mr  W. 
Chalmers,  Broughty  Ferry  ;  is  a  large  and  handsome 
building,  well  adapted  to  its  special  benevolent  pur- 
poses ;  and  in  1881  the  inmates  were  27  boys  and  28 
girls,  while  the  revenue  for  the  year  amounted  to  £1385 
and  the  expenditure  to  £1233.  The  Mars  training-ship 
lies  anchored  in  the  Tay,  about  a  mile  to  the  W  of 
Newport ;  is  used  for  the  board,  maintenance,  educa- 
tion, and  training  of  boys  in  the  duties  of  a  seafaring 
life  ;  was  originally  a  two-decked  80-gun  line-of-battle 
shiji,  subsequently  converted  into  a  screw  of  400  horse- 
power, and  subsequently  adapted,  at  a  cost  of  over 
£4000,  into  a  training-ship ;  in  1881  had  380  boys  on 
board,  while  the  receipts  for  the  year  amounted  to 
£6979  and  the  expenditure  to  £6961  ;  and  in  June  1881 
received  a  new  tender,  named  the  Francis  MolUson,  to 
replace  the  Lightning,  which  had  become  unseaworthy. 
The  Institution  for  the  Blind  originated  in  1865,  by  the 
purchase  of  Danfield  House  by  Mr  and  Mrs  Francis 
Mollison  ;  since  then  the  premises  have  been  from  time 
to  time  enlarged,  and  accommodation  is  now  provided 
for  both  males  and  females,  where  the  blind  can  carry 
on  their  work  in  comfort,  and  earn  their  own  living. 
The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution  stands  in  Lochee  Road, 
on  a  commanding  and  salubrious  site  ;  was  opened  on 
5  Sept.  1870,  and  superseded  a  much  smaller  building 
in  the  Bucklemaker  Wynd  ;  and  provides  an  excellent 
training  for  the  unfortunate  class  for  whom  it  was  de- 
signed. The  Old  Infirmary  stood  in  King  Street,  on  an 
elevated  site  sloping  to  the  S,  well  detached  from  other 
buildings  ;  was  erected  in  1798  ;  was  subsequently  used 
as  a  female  lodging-house  ;  and  latterly  was  converted 
into  a  Board  school.  The  New  Infirmary  occupies  a 
commanding  site  on  the  rising-ground  immediately  above 
the  Barracks,  with  a  clear  exposure  to  the  S  ;  was  erected 
in  1852-54,  after  designs  by  Messrs  Coe  &  Godwin,  of 
London,  at  a  cost  of  about  £15,000  ;  is  a  magnificent 
edifice  in  the  Tudor  style  ;  has  a  S  frontage  350  feet  in 
length,  with  two  wings  running  back  each  160  feet,  and 
a  projection  backward  from  the  middle  ;  exhibits,  in  the 
centre  of  its  frontage,  a  projecting  portion  loftier  than 
the  rest,  flanked  with  four-story  battlemented  turrets,  and 
surmounted  by  a  pyramidal  crown  with  lantern  finial ; 
is  arranged  internally  on  the  corridor  system,  in  a  man- 
ner very  airy  and  eminently  convenient ;  was  originally 
constructed  to  accommodate  220  ])aticnts  under  ordinary 
circumstances,  but  has  had  additions  since  made  so  as 
to  accommodate  about  400  persons.  The  following  tablo 
shows  the  number  of  patients,  together  with  the  amouu* 


DUNDEE 


DUNDEE 


«f  the  ordinary  income  and  expenditure,  for  a  series  of 
years : — 


Year. 

Ko.  of 
Patients. 

Income. 

Expenditure.  1 

1855-56 

903 

£1708 

£2050 

X860-61 

1477 

2210 

2744 

lSe3-64 

2019 

3005 

2922 

1S66-67 

2505 

4648 

5849 

1S73-74 

1830 

5387 

5810 

1874-75 

1694 

5908 

5620 

1875-76 

1356 

6391 

6430 

187S-79 

1723 

6225 

6440 

1S79-S0 

1720 

6110 

6443 

1850-Sl 

1672 

6257 

5809 

A  Convalescent  House,  for  the  reception  of  females 
recovering  from  illness  or  accidents,  was  opened  in  Nov. 
1860  in  a  house  in  Union  Place,  being  that  which  was 
at  one  time  tenanted  by  the  late  Rev.  R.  M.  M'Cheyne; 
but  was  removed  in  June  1870  to  larger  ])remises  in 
William  Street,  Forebank.  A  second  institution  of  this 
nature,  for  both  male  and  female  patients,  was  erected 
in  1877  in  the  \dcinity  of  Broughty  Ferry  ;  stands  next 
the  cemetery,  on  the  E,  in  a  park  of  some  6  or  7  acres ; 
was  designed  by  Mr  James  M'Laren,  and  has  an  impos- 
ing appearance,  its  central  tower  rising  as  a  landmark 
for  miles  round  ;  had  its  funds  supplied  by  the  late  Sir 
David  Baxter  and  his  friends,  and  included,  besides  the 
sum  of  £10,000  set  apart  for  the  building  and  furniture, 
other  £20,000  as  an  endowment  for  its  maintenance  ; 
and  accommodates  25  male  and  25  female  boarders. 
The  Roj-al  Lunatic  Asylum  stands  in  the  north-eastern 
extremity  of  the  town,  upon  an  inclined  plane  consider- 
ably higher  than  the  level  of  the  old  streets,  and  com- 
manding a  fine  view  of  the  waters  and  shores  of  the 
Tay  ;  was  erected  in  1820 ;  and  is  a  large  and  well- 
arranged  edifice,  encircled  ■with  gardens  and  airing 
grounds  to  the  extent  of  more  than  12  acres  ;  but  latterly 
had  become  utterly  inadequate  to  the  proper  accommo- 
dation of  the  increasing  number  of  inmates,  who  on  Jan. 
9,  1882,  were  318—126  males  and  192  females.  A  new 
asylum  was  therefore  erected  in  1879-82  at  West  Green, 
about  5  miles  from  Dundee,  providing  accommodation 
for  300  pjatients,  the  plans  providing  also  for  the  erection 
of  a  private  asylum  for  70  patients,  a  chapel,  superin- 
tendent's house,  farm  buildings,  and  lodges ;  each 
patient  having  for  the  single  rooms,  1040  cubic  feet 
space,  and  for  the  dormitories,  780  cubic  feet.  The 
front  of  the  Asylum  is  to  the  S,  and  commands  a  splen- 
did prospect  of  the  Tay  and  the  bordering  counties,  as 
well  as  the  German  Ocean.  It  has  turreted  corners,  and 
over  the  roof  in  the  centre  is  a  fleche  of  timber.  The 
buildings  altogether  cost  about  £60,000,  and- were  occu- 
pied in  the  summer  of  1882.  The  Sailors'  Home,  in 
Dock  Street,  formally  opened  on  Dec.  16,  1881,  by  the 
Earl  of  Dalhousie,  was  the  result  of  a  movement  origi- 
nated about  two  years  previously  ;  is  in  the  Elizabethan 
style,  5  stories  in  height,  with  frontages  to  Dock  Street 
and  Candle  Lane,  the  elevation  to  Dock  Street  being 
tastefully  ornamented,  and  presenting  a  very  handsome 
appearance  ;  provides  accommodation  for  80  seamen, 
besides  a  house  for  the  superintendent ;  has  also  a 
chapel,  seated  for  240  persons,  where  divine  service  is 
conducted  every  Sunday  ;  and  cost  altogether  £12,000, 
the  whole  of  which  was  locally  subscribed.  The  Curr 
Night  Refuge  stands  in  West  Bell  Street,  opposite  the 
burying-ground  ;  was  erected,  with  the  sum  of  £6000 
set  aside  bj'  the  trustees  of  the  late  JIrs  Curr  of  Rose- 
ville,  for  the  purpose  ;  is  in  the  Elizabethan  style,  after 
designs  by  Mr  David  Maclaren,  not  too  elaborated  with 
decorations,  but  possessing  a  tasteful  and  pleasing  ap- 
pearance ;  and  was  opened  in  the  summer  of  1882. 
Other  charitable  institutions  in  the  town  are  the  Indigent 
Sick  Society,  instituted  in  1797  for  affording  aid  to  the 
indigent  and  sick  ;  the  Eye  Institution,  founded  in 
1836  for  the  benefit  of  those  suffering  from  diseases  of 
the  eye  ;  the  Home  for  Fallen  Women,  founded  in  1848 
by  Sir  John  and  Lady  Jane  Ogilvy,  for  the  reclamation 
of  females  who  have  strayed  from  the  paths  of  virtue  ; 
Baldovan   Asylum   for    Imbecile   Children,    also   esta- 


blished by  Sir  John  and  Lady  Ogilvy  in  1855,  and  pro- 
viding accommodation  for  about  50  inmates  ;  the  Pri- 
soners' Aid  Society,  established  in  1872  for  the  correction 
and  reformation  of  ticket-of-leave  persons  and  prisoners 
discharged  from  gaol ;  the  Cabmen's  Shelter,  in  South 
Lindsay  Street,  immediately  adjoining  the  Old  Steeple, 
erected  in  1875  by  public  subscription  for  the  benefit  of 
cabmen  ;  the  Homaopatliic  Dispensary,  in  South  Tay 
Street,  opened  in  1876  ;  Harris's  Charity,  originated  in 
1874  in  a  gift  of  £10,000  from  Mr  Wm.  Harris,  the 
interest  of  which  is  applied  for  the  relief  of  those  who 
have  seen  better  days  ;  the  Sunday  morning  free  break- 
fasts to  the  poor,  originated  in  1875  ;  the  Dundee 
Humane  Society,  for  the  purpose  of  rewarding  those 
who  distinguish  themselves  by  their  courageous  and 
humane  exertions  in  saving  life,  estalilished  in  1865  ; 
the  Dundee  Swimming  Club  and  Humane  Society, 
formed  in  1874,  to  encourage  swimming  in  all  its 
branches,  and  to  reward  those  persons  who  may  be  the 
means  of  saving  life  ;  the  Clothing  Society,  conducted 
by  ladies,  embraces  all  denominations,  and  is  perfectly 
unsectarian  in  its  character.  There  is  a  local  treasurer 
for  the  Indigent  Gentlewoman's  Fund,  for  the  relief  of 
ladies  who,  having  been  brought  up  genteelly,  have 
fallen  into  poverty  through  no  fault  of  their  own. 
There  are  also  local  agencies  for  a  number  of  metropoli- 
tan and  national  charitable  institutions. 

Previous  to  the  passing  of  the  Reform  Bill  of  1832 
Dundee  united  with  the  burghs  of  Perth,  Cupar-Fife, 
St  Andrews,  and  Forfar  in  sending  one  representative  to 
parliament ;  but  when  that  measure  became  law  it 
elected  a  member  of  its  own,  and  since  1868  it  has  had 
two  parliamentary  representatives.  A  sheriff-substitute 
for  Dundee  Avas  first  appointed  in  1832,  and  since  1865 
it  has  been  the  seat  of  a  cu-euit  court  of  justiciary.  For 
some  years  the  police  force  was  regulated  by  a  statute 
passed  in  1837,  which  vested  the  management  jointly 
in  the  magisti'ates,  and  in  a  specially-elected  body  of 
general  commissioners.  Subsequently,  however,  by  the 
adoption  of  the  General  Police  Act  of  1850,  the  whole 
parliamentary  area,  including  the  populous  district  of 
Lochee,  and  also  the  harbour  of  Dundee,  were  embraced 
in  the  police  boundaries.  In  Oct.  18S1,  in  consequence 
of  a  disagreement  respecting  the  sum  to  be  paid  by  the 
harbour  trustees  to  the  police  commissioners  for  watching, 
cleansing,  and  lighting  the  harbour,  the  trustees  from 
that  date  undertook  the  duty  themselves.  The  Central 
Police  Ofiice  is  in  AVest  Bell  Street ;  and  there  are  dis- 
trict stations  in  Princes  Street,  Scouriugburn,  Maxwell- 
town,  and  South  Road,  Lochee.  The  force  consists  of — 
1  superintendent,  2  lieutenants,  4  inspectors,  1  sanitary 
inspector  (who  is  also  inspector  of  lodging-houses)  and 
7  assistants,  1  detective  inspector  and  6  detective  officers, 
1  inspector  of  markets  and  1  assistant,  8  sergeants,  and 
about  140  constables.  The  prison,  in  West  Bell  Street, 
was  erected  in  1837  at  a  cost  of  £26,000  ;  had  consider- 
able additions  made  to  it  in  1844,  in  1857,  and  again  in 
1872  ;  but  notwithstanding  those  extensions,  the  build- 
ing has  been  officially  condemned  as  too  small  for  the 
increasing  criminal  population  of  the  town.  For  making 
provision  for  the  poor,  Dundee  and  its  suburbs  used  to 
be  divided  into  two  districts — namely,  the  parish  of 
Dundee  proper  and  the  united  jiarish  of  Lilf  and  Bcnvie 
— each  of  which  had  its  own  house  for  the  reception  of 
paupers,  and  its  own  funds,  assessment,  and  board  of 
management ;  but  in  1879  the  two  districts  were  united 
under  one  management,  tlie  two  workhouses  being  re- 
tained for  the  eastern  and  western  districts  respective!}-. 
What  used  to  be  the  Dundee  Poorhouse  is  situated  at 
Maryfield,  to  the  W  of  the  Forfar  Loan  ;  was  erected  in 
1856  at  a  cost  of  £10,000,  with  accommodation  for  300 
inmates  ;  but  was  subsequently  enlarged  so  as  to  receive 
700  persons.  What  was  the  Lilf  and  Ben  vie  Poorhouse  is 
in  the  Blackness  Road,  was  erected  in  1864,  and  is 
cajiable  of  accommodating  upwards  of  200  inmates.  In 
1S69  tlie  waterworks  of  the  Dundee  Water  Company 
were  transferred,  by  purchase,  at  an  expense  of  fully 
£5000,  to  the  Corporation,  by  whom,  as  the  Dundee 
Water    Commission,    the    water   supply    is  now  con- 

421 


DUNDEE 

trolled.  The  water  supply  formerly  came  from  ^loni- 
kie,  but  in  1875  an  adilitional  source  of  supply  from 
the  Loch  of  Lintrathen  was  made  available,  from 
which  about  4,000,000  gallons  are  daily  brought  into  the 
town's  reservoirs.  A  gas  company  was  first  formed  in 
Dundee  in  1825,  a  second  in  1846  ;  and  in  1868  the 
works  and  plant  of  both  companies  were  acquired  by  a 
mixed  body,  of  whom  the  Coriwration  formed  the  majo- 
rity, and  who  now,  as  the  Dundee  Gas  Commission, 
supply  the  community  with  gas.  The  works  are  in  East 
Dock  Street,  and  have  been  from  time  to  time  extended 
to  meet  the  increasing  requirements  of  the  town.  In 
Sept.  1881  a  gasholder,  the  second  largest  in  Scotland, 
was  brought  into  use,  having  cost  upwards  of  £15,000. 
In  the  parliamentary  session  of  1882  the  Gas  Commission 
applied  to  parliament  for  a  bill  authorising  them  to 
manufacture  and  supply  the  electric  light.  A  commo- 
dious and  convenient  cattle  market,  with  .slaughter- 
houses and  other  adjuncts,  was  provided  in  1876  by  the 
police  commissioners  at  Carolina  Port,  adjoining  the 
East  Dock  Street  I'aihvay  station,  at  a  cost  of  about 
£35,000.  The  extent  of  ground  is  about  6|  acres,  and 
the  frontage  to  the  Ferry  Road  on  the  N,  and  Dock 
Street  on  the  S,  is  between  500  and  600  feet.  The 
Greenmarket — the  open  street  between  the  foot  of 
Crichton  Street  and  Dock  Street — is  where  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  marketing  of  the  working-classes  is  conducted. 
The  Fish  Market  is  held  in  an  enclosure  to  the  E  of  the 
Greenmarket.  The  Arcade  occupies  a  large  plot  of 
ground  lying  between  King  Street  and  Victoria  Road, 
having  a  frontage  to  King  Street  on  the  S,  Victoria 
Road  on  the  N,  King's  Road  on  the  E,  and  Idvies  and 
Charles  Streets  on  the  W  ;  and  was  opened  on  Dec. 
10,  1881.  The  Post  Office,  situated  at  the  top  of  Reform 
Street,  contains  all  the  departments  of  a  head  office, 
^vith  telegraph  office  attached,  but  is  scarcely  on  a  scale 
or  in  a  style  commensurate  with  the  to^vn's  importance. 
Postal  receiving-houses,  with  money  order  and  savings' 
Ijank  departments,  are  in  King  Street,  Hilltowm,  Perth 
Road,  Scouringburn,  Princes  Street,  and  Blackscroft. 
Telephonic  communication  is  provided  by  two  separate 
companies. 

Dundee  was  the  second  town  in  Scotland  to  open  a 
Free  Public  Ijibrary,  which  it  decided  to  do  at  a  public 
meeting  held  on  Sept.  6,  1866,  but  the  library  itself  was 
not  opened  until  July  1,  1869,  and  the  reference  depart- 
ment three  months  afterwards.  The  success  of  the  Free 
Library  was  so  great  that  ultimately  arrangements  were 
made  by  which  the  Albert  Institute  directors  conveyed 
to  the  to^vn  the  ground  necessary  for  the  erection  of 
additional  buildings  to  be  occupied  as  a  picture  gallery 
and  museum,  and  also,  as  has  already  been  stated,  vested 
the  whole  of  the  Albert  Institute  in  the  To^ra  Council, 
as  trustees  for  carrying  out  the  purposes  for  which  the 
institute  was  foumled.  In  1873  a  branch  of  the  Lend- 
ing Library  was  opened  in  Lochee  ;  but  it  was  taken 
advantage  of  to  so  small  an  extent,  that  it  was  discon- 
tinued after  a  few  months'  trial,  'fhe  museum  occupies 
the  extreme  E  end  of  the  Albert  Institute  buildings  ; 
was  formally  opened  to  the  public  on  May  9,  1874  ; 
contains  a  large  number  of  geological,  Ijotanical,  and 
natural  history  specimens,  besides  a  splendid  collection 
of  articles  from  the  Arctic  regions.  The  Picture  Gallery 
is  enriched  with  some  choice  works  of  art,  although  the 
collection  is  not  nearly  so  large  as  it  ought  to  be.  An 
annual  Fine  Art  Exhibition  is  now  held  in  the  Albert 
Institute  buildings.  Dundee  was  first  provided  with 
])ulilic  baths  l)y  a  joint-stock  com]any  in  1848  ;  but  in 
1871  they  were  acquired  by  the  Corporation,  and  have 
since  been  greatly  extended  and  improved.  The  batlis 
are  situated  on  the  West  Protection  "Wall,  closely  ad- 
joining the  river,  so  that  an  abundant  water  supply  can 
at  all  times  be  had.  They  include  a  handsome  Turkish 
bath,  splendid  .swimming  ponds,  and  excellent  plunge 
baths.  Dundee  furnishes  two  contingents  to  the  For- 
farshire Rifle  Volunteer  Corps — the  1st  Forfarsiiire,  con- 
sisting of  8  companies,  with  about  800  men  of  all  ranks ; 
and  the  2d  Forfar.shire  (Dundee  Highland),  of  6  com- 
jianies,  with  about  600  men  of  all  ranks.  It  also  fur- 
422 


DUNDEE 

nislies  a  corps  (the  4th)  to  the  Forfarshire  Artillery 
Brigade.  In  the  end  of  1881  an  attempt  was  made  to 
raise  a  brigade  of  Naval  Artillery  Volunteers  ;  but  in 
Jan.  1882,  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty 
declined  to  sanction  the  undertaking,  as  a  sufficient 
number  of  volunteers  had  not  come  forward.  Dmidee, 
however,  furnishes  a  larger  contingent  towards  the  Royal 
Naval  Reserve  than  any  port  in  Scotland,  and  more  than 
any  port  in  the  kingdom  in  proportion  to  its  seafaring 
population.  For  their  training  the  Unicorn,  formerly 
a  double-decked  frigate,  has  been  specially  fitted  up, 
and  now  lies  moored  in  Earl  Grey's  Dock.  The  Savings' 
Bank  is  situated  in  Euclid  Street,  nearly  opposite  Ward 
Chapel;  was  originally  established  in  1815,  but  removed 
to  its  present  handsome  quarters  in  1867.  The  progi'ess 
of  the  bank  is  shoAvn  by  the  foUomng  statemeiat  of  the 
simi  due  to  depositors  during  a  series  of  years,  ending 
at  Nov.  20  in  each  year:  — 1860,  £108,779;  1865, 
£150,897  ;  1870,  £256,400  ;  1875,  £409,558 ;  1876, 
£441,080;  1877,  £471,660;  1878,  £485,865;  1879, 
£519,617  ;  1880,  £566,608  ;  1881,  £600,244.  A  work- 
ing men's  club,  with  suitable  premises  in  South  Tay 
Street,  was  established  in  1873  by  the  munificence  of 
Mr  George  Armitstead,  one  of  the  parliamentary  re- 
presentatives of  the  burgh,  but  after  maintaining  a 
languishing  existence  was  closed  in  Dec.  1881.  The 
theatre  stands  in  Castle  Street,  was  once  elegant,  but 
became  dingy  and  desolate,  and  although  improved  from 
time  to  time,  and  excellently  managed,  is  structurally 
inadequate  to  the  requirements  of  modern  times.  The 
Dundee  Music  Hall,  formerly  the  Exchange  Room, 
stands  at  the  foot  of  Castle  Street,  the  entertainment 
offered  being  of  the  usual  music  hall  description.  A 
circus,  erected  by  the  Brothers  Cooke  behind  the 
Queen's  Hotel,  Nethergate,  was  opened  in  Feb.  1878, 
and  is  visited  at  occasional  intervals  b)'  these  well- 
known  equestrians.  A  circus  was  erected  in  East  Dock 
Street  by  Mr  James  Newsome  in  1875,  but  was  given  up 
in  1881.  Dundee  possesses  a  number  of  yachting  and 
rowing  clubs  ;  has  a  fine  skating  pond  at  Stobsmuir  ;  an 
open-air  bathing  pond  at  Buckingham  Point,  and  an 
open-air  bathing  association  ;  a  chess  club,  founded  in 
1826  ;  and  several  angling  clubs,  besides  numerous 
cricket  and  bowling  clubs,  and  a  snufl'  and  twopenny 
whist  club.  Amongst  its  miscellaneous  institutions  are 
a  time  gun,  in  the  grounds  attached  to  the  barracks, 
connected  by  an  electric  wire  with  the  Observatory  at 
Greenwich,  and  fired  daily  at  one  o'clock ;  and  two  Rus- 
sian guns,  captured  from  the  Russians  during  the  Russian 
war,  and  placed  in  front  of  the  Volunteer  Drill  Hall. 

Dundee  has  three  railway  stations — one  at  the  E  end 
of  Dock  Street,  another  at  the  W  end,  and  a  third  the 
Tay  Bridge  station — immediatel}'  adjoining  the  Esplan- 
ade. Attempts  have  frequently  been  made  to  secure  a 
commodious  central  station,  but  have  always  failed,  and 
the  lamentable  accident  to  the  Tay  Bridge  seems  to  have 
rendered  the  accomplishment  of  this  object  more  remote 
than  ever.  This  bridge  was  one  of  the  longest  in  the 
world,  its  length,  including  the  extension  on  the 
northern  shore,  being  10,612  feet.  This  great  length 
was  taken  in  85  spans  of  varying  width,  the  widest,  of 
which  there  were  11,  being  245  feet.  The  level  at  the 
shores  was  between  70  and  80  feet  above  the  sea  ;  in  the 
middle  it  was  130  feet  above  high  water,  giving  a  clear 
water-way  of  88  feet  at  high-water  mark.  The  platform 
on  the  top  of  the  bridge,  which  carried  the  single  line 
of  rails,  was  only  15  feet  wide,  and,  as  seen  from  the 
heights  above  Newport,  was  so  narrow  as  to  appear  a 
mere  cable  swung  from  shore  to  shore  ;  and  seeing  a 
train  puffing  along  for  the  first  time  is  said  to  have 
excited  the  same  kind  of  nervousness  felt  by  those  who 
watched  Blondin  crossing  the  Niagara.  The  bridge, 
which  was  designed  by  Thomas  Bouch  (afterwards 
knighted),  cost  £350,000,  and  was  opened  for  traffic  on 
May  31,  1878.  On  the  evening  of  Sunday,  Dec.  28, 
1879,  during  a  severe  storm,  the  whole  of  the  high 
central  girders  of  the  ])ridgo  were  blown  down  while 
a  passenger  train  was  crossing  from  the  S  to  the 
N,  and  every  individual  in  the  ill-fated  train  perished. 


DUNDEE 

It  is  believed  that  nearly  90  persons  thus  lost  their  lives, 
the  bodies  of  only  46  of  whom  were  afterwards  recovered. 
A  sum  of  £6527  was  raised  by  public  subscription  for 
the  relief  of  the  sufferers,  of  which  not  quite  £2000  was 
expended  in  interim  relief;  and  as  the  North  British 
British  Railway  Company  settled  all  the  claims  of  the 
sufferers,  the  balance  was  returned  to  the  subscribers. 
A  protracted  inquiry  was  made  into  the  disaster,  which 
showed  that  the  bridge  was  badly  designed,  badly  con- 
structed, and  badly  maintained.  After  much  delay, 
plans  for  a  new  bridge,  a  little  to  the  W  of  the  former 
structure,  at  a  lower  elevation  and  for  a  double  line  of 
rails,  were  sanctioned  by  the  Board  of  Trade,  and  the 
work  was  begun  in  the  spring  of  1882,  Mr  W.  H.  Bar- 
low, C.E.,  being  the  engineer.  In  1873,  powers  wera 
acquired  by  a  private  company  for  the  construction  of 
street  tramways,  but  the  work  was  not  then  proceeded 
with,  and  it  was  not  until  four  years  afterwards  that 
they  were  introduced  by  another  company. 

The  Dundee  Chamber  of  Commerce,  formedin  1836,  but 
only  obtaining  its  charter  of  incorporation  in  1864,  is  now 
a  large  and  influential  body,  composed  principally  of 
gentlemen  engaged  in  the  staple  manufactures  of  the 
town.  A  Horticultural  Society  has  existed  for  many 
years,  and  holds  an  annual  exhibition  at  which  prizes 
are  awarded  for  the  best  plants,  cut  flowers,  fruit,  and 
vegetables.  A  Dog,  Cat,  and  Poidtry  Show  existed  for 
three  years,  its  last  annual  exhibition  being  in  Nov. 
1880.  A  Naturalists'  Society  was  formed  in  1872,  which 
has  accommodation  provided  for  it  in  one  of  the  rooms 
of  the  Albert  Institute.  There  are  also  numerous  pro- 
vident, building,  and  insurance  societies,  and  a  number 
of  co-operative  societies.  The  Dundee  Temperance 
Society  was  established  in  Jan.  1830  ;  the  Independent 
Order  of  Good  Templars  was  introduced  in  Sept.  1870  ; 
the  Women's  Temperance  Prayer  Union  was  formed  in 
1874  ;  and  the  Blue  Ribbon  Army  was  introduced  by 
Mr  Francis  Murphy,  the  apostle  of  temperance  from 
America,  in  Dec.  1881.  There  are  also  various  muni- 
cipal and  political,  as  well  as  social  and  convivial,  organi- 
sations in  the  town.  The  newspapers  are — the  Dundee 
Advertiser,  published  dailj'',  as  well  as  a  bi-weekly 
edition  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays  ;  the  Dundee  Courier 
and  Argus,  daily,  also  with  bi-weekly  issue  on  Tuesdays 
and  Fridays,  entitled  the  Northern  Warder ;  the  Even- 
ing Telegraph,  daily ;  the  People^s  Journal,  every 
Saturday  ;  and  the  IVceJcly  News,  every  Saturday.  The 
People's  Friend,  a  Scottish  literary  miscellany,  is  pub- 
lished every  Wednesday  ;  and  the  Wizard  of  the  North, 
a  comic  journal,  monthly. 

The  manufactures  of  the  town  exhibit  a  remarkable 
history  of  failure,  perseverance,  and  eventual  success. 
Coarse  woollens,  under  the  name  of  plaiding,  dyed  in 
Holland,  and  exported  throughout  Europe  ;  bonnets,  so 
extensively  manufactured  as  to  employ  a  large  propor- 
tion of  the  population  ;  coloured  sewing  thread,  made 
by  7  different  companies,  maintaining  66  twisting-mills, 
and  employing  1340  spinners  ;  the  tanning  of  leather, 
in  at  least  9  tanyards,  and  to  the  annual  value  of 
£14,200  ;  glass,  in  2  factories,  one  for  window  glass,  the 
other  for  bottle  glass  ;  the  spinning  of  cotton,  vigorously 
conducted,  for  a  time,  by  7  different  companies  ;  the 
refining  of  sugar,  earned  on  in  a  large  building  in  Sea- 
gate ;  these,  and  the  making  of  buckles  and  other  minor 
manufactures,  all  flourished  for  a  season,  and  terminated 
in  disaster  and  extinction,  some  of  them  leaving  their 
names  on  their  localities,  others  leaving  vestiges  of  their 
factory  walls  as  memorials  of  the  instability  of  trade. 

The  staple  trade  for  some  time  was  in  flax  and  linen  ; 
afterwards  included  hemp ;  and  of  late  years,  with 
rapid  increase,  has  turned  largely  on  jute.  For  many 
years,  with  the  view  of  encouraging  the  linen  trade,  a 
bounty  was  paid  by  the  Government  on  all  linen 
exported  ;  and  in  1S32 — the  last  year  that  this  l)ounty 
was  paid — the  value  of  the  linen  sent  out  from  Dundee 
amounted  to  £600,000.  The  largest  hemp  and  flax 
establishment  in  the  town  is  that  of  the  Messrs  Baxter 
Brothers  in  Princes  Street,  which  covers  upwards  of 
nine  acres  of  grounil.     This  firm  employs  upwards  of 


DUNDEE 

4000  workpeople,  and  consumes  7000  tons  of  flax  alone 

per  annum,  besides  a  considerable  quantity  of  hemp — a 
([uantity  exceeding  what  is  worked  up  by  any  otlier 
firm  in  the  world.  It  is  here  that  the  greater  part  of 
the  ships'  canvas  for  the  British  Royal  Navy,  and  that 
of  the  United  States  of  America,  is  manufactured. 
Jute,  however,  is  now  the  staple  trade  of  the  town,  its 
development  since  the  civil  war  in  America  having  been 
something  marvellous,  and  almost  fabulous  fortunes 
having  been  made  by  some  of  the  larger  manufacturers 
engaged  in  it.  Since  1874,  however,  the  trade  has  been 
in  an  unusually  depressed  state,  mainly  in  consequence 
of  the  number  of  jute  factories  that  have  been  established 
in  other  parts  of  the  country,  on  the  Continent,  and  in 
Calcutta.  The  following  is  a  return  of  the  quantity  of 
jute  imported  during  the  last  few  years  : — 1868,  58,474 
tons;  1869,  82,379;  1870,  81,740;  1871,  102,844; 
1872,  127,190;  1873,  143,150;  1874,  117,375;  1875, 
112,350;  1876,  118,571;  1877,  107,616;  1878,  126,776; 
1879,  151,291  ;  1880,  138,546.  The  jute  used  to  be  all 
obtained  from  India,  but  latterly  a  portion  has  come 
from  Egypt ;  was  originally  got  through  London  and 
Liverpool,  but  the  greater  part  of  it  is  now  imported 
direct  from  Calcutta. 

The  seal  and  whale  fishing  is  also  an  important 
industry  in  Dundee,  about  a  dozen  screw-steamers  being 
engaged  in  it,  with  varying  success.  Every  ship  has 
from  70  to  90  of  a  crew,  who  have  to  be  provisioned  for 
several  months  ;  and  to  this  outlay  has  to  be  added  the 
cost  of  repairing  and  refitting  the  vessels,  which  is  some- 
times a  pretty  heavy  sum.  When  it  is  mentioned  that 
the  capital  invested  in  the  whaling  fleet  represents  a 
total  of  about  £200,000,  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  its 
magnitude.  The  value  of  the  fisheries  varies  in  different 
seasons,  but  of  late  years  it  has  been  on  the  increase. 
The  average  price  obtained  for  seal  skins  may  be  put  at 
4s.  6d.  each,  and  every  ton  of  oil  is  worth  about  £35  ; 
while,  as  regards  the  whale  fishery,  the  price  of  the  oil 
obtained  may  be  given  at  £40  per  ton,  and  of  bone  at 
£500  per  ton,  although  it  has  been  as  high  as  £1000  per 
ton  in  some  years.  Some  of  the  vessels  engaged  in  the 
fishings  belong  to  private  individuals,  and  the  others 
to  three  joint-stock  companies.  The  following  is  a 
return  of  the  fisheries  for  a  series  of  years  : — 


Seal  Fishing. 

Whale  Fishing. 

Year. 

Ships. 

Seals. 

Tons  Oil. 

Ships. 

Tons  Oil. 

Tons  Bone. 

1865 

4 

63,000 

730 

7 

630 

30 

1S66 

7 

58,000 

690 

11 

340 

IS 

1867 

11 

56,000 

640 

11 

20 

— 

1S6S 

12 

16,070 

190 

13 

970 

50 

1869 

11 

45,600 

460 

10 

140 

7i 

1870 

9 

90.450 

870 

6 

760 

40.1 

1871 

9 

65,480 

648 

8 

1156 

61J 

1872 

11 

40,621 

429 

10 

1010 

54 

1873 

11 

25,594 

265 

10 

1352 

69 

1874 

11 

46,252 

577 

9 

1290 

66i 

1875 

12 

49,295 

450 

12 

752 

40 

1876 

11 

53,776 

578 

13 

891 

44 

1877 

14 

80,130 

1129 

14 

893 

44J 

1878 

13 

94,161 

1115 

13 

112 

6 

1879 

15 

92,400 

1160 

13 

725 

35i 

1880 

13 

65,000 

981 

12 

1084 

56 

1881 

15 

210,000 

2654 

11 

514 

25 

The  shipping  and  shipbuilding  of  the  port  have 
increased  very  much  of  late  years,  and  are  now  some- 
thing considerable.  The  following  table  shows  the 
number  of  vessels,  with  their  aggregate  tonnage,  be- 
longing to  the  port  in  a  series  of  years  : — 


Year. 

Vessels. 

Tonnage. 

Year. 

Vessels. 

Tonnage. 

1792 

116 

8,5.50 

1872 

179 

53,279 

1813 

153 

14,905 

1873 

167 

50,579 

1821 

171 

17,370 

1874 

173 

55,994 

1831 

259 

30,()54 

1875 

181 

70,205 

1841 

389 

54,292 

1876 

196 

86,  .545 

1851 

362 

60,693 

1877 

202 

92,273 

1868 

195 

50,074 

1873 

204 

94,323 

1869 

108 

62,392 

1879 

197 

93.712 

1870 

189 

55,599 

1880 

196 

a8,548 

1871 

191 

54,863 

1881 

188 

96,671 

423 


DUNDEE 

The  follo-sving  is  a  statement  of  the  number  of  vessels 
that  entered  the  harbour,  and  their  aggregate  tonnage, 
for  several  j'ears: — 1878,  3676  vessels,  530,467  tonnage  ; 
1879,  2817,  503,840;  1880,  3016,  531,946;  1881,  2672, 
555,303. 

The  following  table  shows  the  number  of  ships  and 
amount  of  tonnage  launched  and  on  hand  at  the  end  of 
a  series  of  vears  :  — 


Launched. 

On  Hand. 

Year. 

Vessels. 

Tonnage. 

Vessels. 

Tonnage. 

1871 

11 

9,400 

11 

13,572 

1S72 

13 

13,049 

7 

7,190 

1S73 

10 

9,293 

8 

9,107 

1874 

11 

11,165 

11 

10,540 

1875 

23 

14,998 

19 

14,095 

1876 

23 

15,356 

15 

11,720 

1877 

18 

12,135 

7 

7,580 

1878 

12 

11,121 

11 

9,980 

1879 

14 

12,384 

12 

11,423 

1880 

15 

15,621 

7 

14,925 

1881 

11 

18,945 

16 

21,758 

The  engineering  and  iron-founding  trades  of  the  town 
are  also  of  considerable  importance,  the  workers  in  iron 
forming  by  far  the  largest  class  of  male  operatives  in 
Dundee.  A  considerable  trade  is  also  done  in  the  manu- 
facture of  confectionery,  marmalade,  leather,  boots  and 
shoes,  and  tobacco,  as  well  as  in  the  brewing  of  beer  and 
the  grinding  of  flour. 

Loehee  forms  a  sort  of  outgrowth  of  Dundee,  being 
separated  from  the  general  body  of  the  to^\^l  by  a  very 
circuitous  and  irregular  road  ;  and,  although  now  form- 
ing part  of  the  burgh,  retains  much  of  the  village 
character,  having  interests  and  requirements  of  its  own ; 
has  two  places  of  worship  in  connection  with  the 
establishment — the  old  Chapel  of  Ease  and  St  Luke's  ; 
a  P>ee  church,  U.  P.  church,  St  Margaret's  Episcopal 
Church,  St  Clement's  Roman  Catholic  Chapel,  St  Mary's 
of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  and  a  Baptist  chapel. 
Wellburn  Asylum,  conducted  under  Roman  Catholic 
auspices,  affords  accommodation  for  100  aged  men,  and 
a  similar  number  of  old  women.  The  Camperdo^vn 
Linen  Works,  of  Messrs  Cox  Brothers,  are  the  largest  of 
the  kind  about  Dundee,  and  give  employment  to  a  large 
proportion  of  the  inhabitants  of  Dundee. 

The  name  Dundee  was  anciently  written  Donde, 
Dondie,  and  Dondei  ;  and  is  supposed  by  some  to  be  a 
corruption  of  the  Latin  Dei  Donum,  signifying  the  '  hill 
of  God,'  by  others  to  be  a  variation  of  the  Celtic  Dun- 
taw,  signifying  the  'hill  of  Tay.'  The  name  Alec  or 
Alectum,  signifying  'a  handsome  place,'  is  alleged  to 
have  been  jireviously  used,  but  seems  to  have  been 
merely  a  poetical  epithet  applied  to  Hector  Boece.  The 
town  is  said,  by  some  old  historians,  to  have  been  a 
place  of  importance  and  strength  at  the  time  of  the 
Roman  invasion  under  Agricola  ;  but  it  really  does  not 
appear  fairly  on  record  till  the  year  834,  and  not  very 
authentically  even  then  ;  and,  like  all  the  other  ancient 
towns  of  Scotland,  it  suffered  obscuration  or  obliteration 
of  its  early  history  from  destruction  of  public  documents 
by  Edward  L  of  England.  Elpin,  King  of  the  Scots,  is 
said  to  have,  in  834,  made  Dundee  his  headquarters  in 
warfare  against  Brude,  King  of  the  Picts,  to  have  led 
out  from  it  an  army  of  20,000  against  him  to  Dundee 
Law,  and  to  have  there  been  discomfited,  captured,  and 
beheaded.  Malcolm  IL,  in  1010,  concentrated  his 
forces  in  Dundee,  and  led  them  thence  to  his  victory 
over  the  Danish  general  at  Barrie.  Malcolm  Ceannmor, 
about  1071,  as  we  have  already  noticed,  erected  in  Dun- 
dec  a  j)alace  for  his  Queen  Margaret ;  and  King  Edgar, 
in  1106,  as  also  we  previously  stated,  died  in  that 
palace.  David,  Prince  of  Scotland,  Earl  of  Huntingdon, 
the  hero  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's  giapliic  story  of  The 
Talisman,  landed  at  Dundee  on  liis  return  from  the 
crusades  ;  was  met  here,  soon  after  his  arrival,  by  his 
brother  William  the  Lyon  ;  received  from  William  a  gift 
of  the  town,  together  with  conferment  on  it  of  extended 
I)rivileges  ;  and,  in  fulfilment  of  some  vows  which  he  had 
made  in  the  spirit  of  the  period,  erected  in  it,  on  tlie  site 


DUNDEE 

of  the  present  Town  churches,  a  magnificent  chapel.  His 
eldest  daughter,  mother  of  the  Princess  Devorgilla,  and 
grandmother  of  King  John  Baliol,  was  married  at  Dun- 
dee, in  1209,  to  Alan.  Lord  of  Galloway  and  Constable 
of  Scotland. 

The  town,  at  that  time  and  onward  to  the  Wars  of 
the  Succession,  was  the  most  important  one  in  the 
kingdom,  not  even  excepting  Perth,  Stirling,  and  Edin- 
burgh, for  at  once  wealth,  population,  and  political 
consequence  ;  it  received  confirmation  of  its  immunities 
and  privileges  from  Alexander  IIL  ;  and  it,  therefore, 
was  a  prime  mark  for  Edward  L  of  England's  arrows  in 
his  usurpation  of  Scotland's  rights.  His  forces  came 
against  it  in  1291,  took  possession  of  its  castle,  burned 
or  otherwise  demolished  its  churches,  sacked  its  private 
houses,  destroyed  or  carried  off  its  records,  and  inflicted 
ruthless  barbarities  on  its  inhabitants.  Edward,  himself, 
entered  it  in  1296,  and  again  in  1303  ;  and,  in  the 
latter  year,  subjected  it  once  more  to  conflagration  and 
disaster.  Sir  William  AVallace  had  attended  its  gram- 
mar school  when  about  16  years  of  age  ;  he  began  his 
public  career  by  appearing  in  it  amid  the  desolations 
done  by  Edward,  and  killing  the  son  of  the  English 
governor  who  held  its  castle  ;  he  laid  siege  to  it,  \vith 
such  forces  as  he  could  collect,  in  the  summer  of  1297  ; 
he  temporarily  relinquished  the  siege,  in  result  of  in- 
telligence which  drew  him  off  to  Stirling  to  achieve  his 
great  victory  there  ;  he  returned  to  Dundee  to  resume 
the  siege,  immediately  after  his  victory  at  Stirling  ;  he 
promptly  got  possession  of  the  town  by  unconditional 
surrender  ;  and  he  received  from  the  burgesses  a  hand- 
some guerdon  in  money  and  arms.  Its  castle,  soon 
after  Wallace's  departure,  was  seized  and  garrisoned  by 
a  partisan  of  Edward  ;  was  speedily  besieged  again  by 
Wallace  ;  first  in  person,  next  through  his  lieutenant, 
Alexander  Scrymseour  ;  was  pressed  by  the  latter  with 
a  force  of  8000  men,  and  eventually  reduced ;  and  was 
ordered  by  Wallace  to  be  demolished,  that  it  might  no 
more  afford  foothold  to  invading  armies.  Scrymseour,  in 
reward  of  his  bravery,  was  constituted  by  Wallace  Con- 
stable of  Dundee  ;  and  formed  the  source  of  a  series  of 
hereditary  constables,  one  of  whom  became  Viscount 
Dudhope.  A  great  council,  as  we  formerly  noticed,  was 
held  within  the  Greyfriars'  Monastery,  in  1309,  to  re- 
cognise Robert  Bruce  as  King  of  Scotland.  The  castle, 
in  1312,  was  rebuilt  and  garrisoned  by  the  English  ;  in 
the  same  year  was  captured  by  Prince  Edward,  brother 
of  Robert  Bruce  ;  in  the  same  year  was  recaptured  by 
the  English  ;  and,  in  the  early  part  of  1313,  was  cap- 
tured again  by  Prince  Edward.  Robert  Bruce  resided 
in  the  town  during  part  of  1314  ;  and,  while  here,  con- 
ferred upon  it  some  new  important  gifts.  Richard  II. 
of  England,  in  1385,  attacked  the  to^^•n  and  burned  it. 
James  V.  and  his  Queen,  in  1528,  attended  by  a 
numerous  train  of  prelates,  nobles,  and  gentlemen,  were 
magnificently  entertained  in  the  town  for  six  days. 

Dundee  was  the  first  town  in  Scotland  to  receive, 
broadly  and  demonstratively,  the  doctrines  of  the  Re- 
formation ;  and  it  enjoyed,  for  a  time,  with  impressive- 
ness  and  in  solemn  circumstances,  the  ministry  of  the 
Reformer,  Wishart.  Wishart  began  his  ministry  here 
with  public  lectures  on  the  Epistle  to  the  Romans  ;  had 
crowded  and  attentive  audiences  ;  was  temporarily 
driven  from  the  town  at  the  instance  of  the  Romish 
authorities  ;  came  back,  four  days  afterwards,  on  learn- 
ing that  pestilential  plague  had  struck  it ;  preached  to 
its  terrified  inhabitants,  as  we  formerly  noticed,  from 
the  battlements  of  Cowgate  Port ;  and  was  instrumental 
of  so  great  and  permanent  spiritual  benefit  to  it,  as  to 
occasion  it  to  bo  afterwards  called  the  Second  Geneva. 
An  army  of  Henry  VIII.  of  England,  after  the  battle  of 
Pinkie  in  1547,  advanced  to  Dundee  ;  entered  it  with- 
out opposition,  such  forces  as  could  be  raised  in  it 
retiring  at  their  approach  ;  began  to  fortify  it  with 
defensive  walls  at  its  most  accessible  parts  ;  held  posses- 
sion for  only  eight  days,  in  consequence  of  the  rumoured 
advance  of  French  and  other  troops  in  the  interest  of 
the  Queen  Regent ;  and,  on  the  eve  of  their  departure, 
demolished  the  fortifications  which  they  had  begiin  to 


DUNDEE 

erect,  rifled  the  town  and  set  fire  to  its  churclies  and  to 
many  of  its  liouses.  The  Queen  Regent's  troops  entered 
without  resistance  ;  united  with  the  townspeople  in 
quenching  the  confiagration  which  was  going  on  ;  and  re- 
constructed and  extended  the  defensive  fortifications.  A 
body  of  the  townsmen,  to  the  number  of  nearly  1000, 
headed  by  their  provost,  Hallyburton,  in  1559,  hearing  of 
the  hostile  intentions  of  the  Queen  Regent,  marched  into 
junction  with  the  army  of  the  Reformers,  and  contributed 
largely  to  their  victory  at  Perth.  Queen  Mary,  during 
her  progress  through  Scotland,  in  1565,  spent  two  days 
in  Dundee  ;  and,  despite  the  antagonism  between  her 
religious  tenets  and  those  of  the  towmspeople,  was 
treated  with  every  mark  of  loyalty  and  affection.  The 
town  gave  refuge,  in  1584,  both  to  the  celebrated  Pro- 
fessor Melv^ille  of  St  Andrews  and  the  notable  Earl  of 
Gowrie,  who  figured  in  the  raid  of  Ruthven.  James  VI. 
visited  the  town  at  periods  between  1590  and  1594  ;  re- 
visited it,  with  pompous  ceremonial,  in  1617  ;  and,  on 
the  latter  occasion,  was  welcomed  in  a  panegyrical  speech 
and  two  Latin  poems,  delivered  by  the  town-clerk. 

The  Marquis  of  Montrose,  in  1645,  with  a  force  of 
only  about  750  men,  stormed  the  town,  plundered  its 
churches  and  principal  houses,  and  set  parts  of  it  on  fire  ; 
but  was  suddenly  chased  from  it  by  an  army  of  3800 
under  Generals  Baillie  and  Harry.  Charles  II.,  in 
1651,  immediately  before  his  march  into  Worcester, 
spent  some  weeks  in  Dundee  ;  got  sumptuous  entertain- 
ment from  the  magistrates  ;  and  was  provided  by  the 
inhabitants  with  a  statel}^  pavilion,  six  pieces  of  artil- 
lery, and  some  troops  of  horse.  General  Monk,  in  the 
same  year,  besieged  the  town  ;  encountered  a  stubborn, 
prolonged,  and  sanguinary  resistance  beneath  its  walls  ; 
broke  eventually  into  it  with  terrible  impetuosity ; 
slaughtered  all  its  garrison  and  more  than  1200  of  its  in- 
habitants, and  subjected  it  to  such  a  pillage  that  each 
soldier  in  his  army  received  nearly  £60  sterling.  Graham 
of  Claverhouse,  in  1689,  two  years  after  he  had  been  created 
Viscount  Dundee,  and  about  six  weeks  before  he  fell  on 
the  battlefield  of  Killiecrankie,  approached  the  town 
with  intention  of  inflicting  on  it  signal  vengeance  ;  but 
was  met,  and  mainly  repelled,  by  a  prompt  armed  em- 
bodiment of  the  burgesses ;  yet  succeeded  in  setting  fire 
to  the  entire  suburb  of  Hillto\vn.  Graham  of  Duntroon, 
in  Sept.  1715,  proclaimed  in  Dundee  the  Pretender 
as  King  of  the  British  dominions  ;  and  the  Pretender 
himself,  in  the  following  January,  made  a  public  en- 
trance into  the  town  and  spent  a  night,  as  we  formerly 
mentioned,  in  the  town  mansion  of  Stewart  of  Grand- 
tully.  A  force  of  Prince  Charles  Edward,  consisting  of 
about  600  men  imder  the  command  of  Sir  James  Kin- 
Icch,  held  possession  of  the  town  from  7  Sept.  1745  till 
14  Jan.  1746.  Queen  Victoria  and  the  Prince  Consoi't, 
in  Sept.  1844,  on  their  way  to  Blair  Castle,  landed  at 
Dundee ;  and  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales,  in  Sept. 
1864,  embarked  at  it  for  Denmark.  The  Queen,  the 
Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales,  Prince  Leopold,  General 
Grant,  ex-President  of  the  United  States,  and  other 
eminent  personages  also  visited  it  after  the  first  Tay 
Bridge  was  opened. 

]\Iany  natives  of  Dundee  and  its  vicinity,  and  many 
other  persons  who  have  resided  in  it,  are  on  the  roll  of 
fame.  Some  of  the  chief  are  Sir  William  Wallace,  who 
attended  its  grammar  school,  and  possibly  was  a  native  ; 
Sir  Nicol  Campbell  of  Lochow,  the  ancestor  of  the  Dukes 
of  Argyll ;  John  Blair,  who  celebrated  the  enterprises 
of  Sir  William  Wallace  in  a  Latin  poem,  now  lost ; 
Alexander  Scrymseour,  already  mentioned  as  the  first 
of  the  hereditary  constables  of  Dundee  ;  Hector  Boece, 
the  old  Scottish  historian  ;  Robert  Pitliloidi  or  Patullo, 
who  commanded  the  Scottish  guard  in  the  service  of 
France,  and  acquired  distinguished  military  honours, 
under  Charles  VII.  ;  James  Hallyburton,  provost  of  the 
town  for  more  than  thirty  years,  and  a  strenuous  de- 
fender of  the  principles  of  the  Reformation  ;  James 
Wedderburn  and  his  brotlier,  vicar  of  Dundee,  who 
considerably  aided  the  overthrow  of  Popery  by  their 
satires  on  its  clergy  ;  Dr  Kinloch,  physician  to  James 
VI.  ;  the  elder  Marr,  the  friend  and  fellowdabourer  of 


DUNDEE 

Napier  of  Merchiston,  the  inventor  of  logarithms ; 
James  Gleg,  who  left  a  professor's  chair  in  St  Andrews 
to  become  rector  of  Dundee  grammar  school ;  Sir  George 
Mackenzie,  Lord-Advocate  of  Scotland,  author  of  tho 
Institutes  of  the  Scots  Law,  and  founder  of  the  Advocates' 
Library  in  Edinburgh  ;  John  Marr,  the  constructor,  iu 
the  17th  century,  of  a  remarkably  accurate  chart  of  the 
Firth  of  Tay  and  North  Sea  ;  George  Yeaman,  the  re- 
presentative of  the  town  in  the  last  Scottish  parliament, 
and  one  of  the  ablest  and  most  patriotic  legislators  of 
his  country  ;  Robert  Fergusson,  the  talented  but  unfor- 
tunate Scottish  poet,  who  early  came  to  a  disastrous  end 
in  Edinburgh  ;  Robert  Stewart,  an  eminently  literary 
man,  and  a  distinguished  surgeon  ;  Sir  James  Ivory, 
the  celebrated  mathematician  ;  James  Weir,  also  a  pro- 
found mathematician  ;  Admiral  Viscount  Duncan,  the 
hero  of  CamperdoAvn,  and  of  many  other  naval  battles  ; 
Dr  Robert  Small,  the  author  of  an  Explanation  of  the 
Astronomical  Theories  of  Kepler  ;  the  Rev.  John  Glass, 
founder  of  the  religious  body  called  Glassites  ;  the  Rev. 
John  Willison,  author  of  the  Afflicted  Man's  Comjmnion; 
the  Rev.  Dr  Russell,  author  of  a  number  of  religious 
works,  and  a  powerful  preacher ;  the  Rev.  R.  M. 
M'Cheyne,  author  of  a  Mission  to  the  Jcivs,  and  a 
most  effective  preacher ;  Thomas  Hood,  the  humourist ; 
AVilliam  Thorn  and  Robert  Nicoll,  the  well-known  poets ; 
William  Gardiner,  author  of  the  Flora  of  Forfarshire, 
and  other  botanical  works  ;  J.  B.  Lindsay,  a  distin- 
guished mathematician,  electrician,  and  linguist ;  Alex- 
ander Wedderburn,  first  Earl  of  Rosslyn  ;  and  Charles 
Middleton,  first  Lord  Barham  ;  Sir  David  Baxter,  an 
eminent  manufacturer,  and  a  distinguished  local  bene- 
factor ;  the  Rev.  George  Gilfillan,  a  popular  lecturer, 
author,  and  divine. 

The  parish  of  Dundee  contains  also  parts  of  Lochee 
and  Broughty  Ferry,  and  comprises  a  main  body  and  a 
detached  district.  The  main  body  lies  along  the  Firth 
of  Tay  ;  contains  the  greater  part  of  the  towTi  of  Dun- 
dee ;  and  is  bounded  N  by  Liff,  Mains,  and  Murroes,  E 
by  Monifieth,  and  W  by  Liff  and  Benvie.  It  has  an 
elongated  form,  stretching  from  E  to  W,  broadest  at  the 
E  end,  narrowest  at  the  middle  ;  and  it  measures  6^ 
miles  diagonally  from  NE  to  SW,  5f  miles  in  direct 
length  from  E  to  W,  and  2^  miles  in  extreme  breadth 
from  N  to  S.  The  detached  district  commences  about 
4  mile  N  of  the  broadest  part  of  the  main  body ;  is 
bounded  on  the  W  by  Tealing,  on  all  other  sides  by 
Murroes  ;  and  has  nearly  the  outline  of  a  square  Ih  mile 
wdde.  The  entire  area  is  4582  acres,  of  which  150J  are 
detached,  173  foreshore,  and  38  water.  The  surface  of  the 
main  body  rises  gently  from  the  shore ;  swells  somewhat 
suddenly  into  braes  in  the  northern  outskirts  of  the  town ; 
ascends  boldly  thence  to  the  green  round  summit  of 
Dundee  Law,  at  an  elevation  of  571  feet  above  sea-level ; 
forms,  to  the  W  of  the  Law,  the  lesser,  yet  considerable 
and  finely-wooded  height  of  Balgay  Hill ;  and  all,  as 
seen  from  the  Fife  side  of  the  Tay,  presents  a  beautiful 
appearance.  The  view  from  most  parts  of  it  is  charming, 
and  that  from  the  top  of  Dundee  Law  is  at  once  exten- 
sive, panoramic,  and  splendidly  picturesque.  E  and  S, 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  the  mouth  of  the  Tay,  the 
bay  and  towers  of  St  Andrews,  the  German  Ocean,  and 
the  greater  part  of  Fife,  are  seen  spread  out  as  in  a  map. 
Turning  to  the  opposite  point  of  the  compass,  the  dark 
ridges  of  the  Sidlaw  Hills,  with  a  broad  valley  inter- 
vening, and  the  more  distant  peaks  of  the  Grampians, 
meet  the  eye.  The  Tay,  opposite  the  town,  is  rather 
less  than  2  miles  l)road  ;  and  it  contracts  further  down 
to  a  width  of  barely  1  mile.  Dighty  and  Fithie  Waters 
traverse  the  north-eastern  part  of  the  main  body,  and 
make  a  confluence  at  the  boundary  with  Monifieth.  The 
rocks  are  chiefly  porphyry,  sandstone,  amygdaloid,  and 
trap,  and  they  lie  geognostically  subjacent  to  the  Car- 
Ijoniferous  strata.  Paving-stone  and  slate  are  raised  in 
small  (piantity  ;  and  excellent  sandstone  abounds  in  the 
detached  district,  and  is  extensively  (piarried.  The  soil, 
in  the  E,  is  partly  alluvial,  partly  argillaceous,  anil 
generally  good  ;  in  "the  W,  is  thin  and  dry  ;  in  the  NW 
and  behind  Dundee  Law,  is  poor,  upon  a  tilly  bottom. 

425 


DUNDEE  AND  ARBROATH  RAILWAY 

]\[ansions,  separately  noticed,  are  Craigie,  Claypots,  and 
Duntrune.  Dundee  is  the  seat  of  a  presbytery  in  the 
synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns.  It  ranked  till  1834  as 
one  parish,  but  was  served  by  two  ministers  from  tlie 
Reformation  till  1609  ;  it  acquired  a  third  minister  in 
1609,  a  fourth  and  a  fifth  in  1789  ;  and  it  now  is 
divided  into  the  quoad  civilia  parishes  of  Dundee  proper, 
St  ]\Iary,  St  Clement,  and  St  Paul,  with  large  parts  of 
St  David  and  St  John,  and  contains  whole  or  part  of  the 
quoad  sacra  parishes  of  St  Mark,  St  Andrew,  St  Enoch, 
Chapelshade,  Wallacetown,  Rosebank,  and  Logic,  and 
the  chapelries  of  St  Matthew  and  Clepington. — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  48,  49,  1868-65. 

Tlie  presbytery  of  Dundee  comprises  the  old  parishes 
of  Dundee,  Abcrnj-te,  Auchterhouse,  Inchture,  Kinnaird, 
Lilf  and  Benvie,  Longforgan,  Lundie  and  Fowlis,  Mains 
and  Strathmartine,  Monifieth,  Monikie,  Murroes,  and 
Tealing ;  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Broughty  Ferry, 
Broughty  Ferry-St  Stephen,  Dundee-St  Mark,  Dundee- 
St  Andrew,  Dundee-St  Enoch,  Chapelshade,  Wallace- 
town,  Rosebank,  Logie,  Lochee,  and  Lochee-St  Luke  ; 
and  the  chapelries  of  Dundee-St  Matthew  and  Cleping- 
ton. Pop.  (1871)  139,485,  (1881)  163,732,  of  whom 
19,809  were  communicants  of  the  Church  of  Scotland 
in  1878.  The  Free  Church  also  has  a  presbytery  of 
Dundee,  with  18  churches  in  Dundee,  3  in  Broughty 
Ferry,  2  in  Monifieth,  and  7  in  respectively  Abernyte, 
Liff,  Lochee,  Longforgan,  Mains,  Monikie,  and  Tealing, 
which  30  churches  had  11,075  communicants  in  1881. 
The  U.  P.  Synod  also  has  a  presbytery  of  Dundee,  with 
10  churches  in  Dundee,  2  in  Kirriemuir,  2  in  Broughty 
Ferry,  and  6  in  respectively  Lochee,  Alyth,  Blairgowrie, 
Ferry-Port-on-Craig,  Newbigging,  and  Newport,  which 
20  churches  had  7140  members  in  1880. 

See  Chs.  Mackie's  Historical  Description  of  the  Town  of 
Dundee  {1836) ;  C.  C.  tilaxwelVs  Histo7-ical  a7id  Descri])- 
live  Guide  to  Dundee  (1858) ;  James  Thomson's  History 
of  Dundee  (1847);  A.  J.  Warden's  Linen  Trade  Ancient 
and  Modern  (1864) ;  Warden's  Burgh  Laws  (1872) ;  W. 
Norrie's  Dundee  Celebrities  of  the  Nineteenth  Century 
(1873);  W.  Norrie's  Handbook  to  Dundee  Past  and  Pre- 
sent (]  876) ;  Beatts's  Municipal  History  of  Dundee  (1873) ; 
J.  Maclaren's  History  of  Dundee  (1874) ;  W.  Hay's 
Clmrters,  Writs,  and  Public  Documents  of  the  Royal 
Burgh  of  Dundee  (1880);  and  Beatts's  Reminiscences  of 
an  Old  DundMnian  (1882). 

Dundee  and  Arbroath  Railway,  a  railway  in  the  S 
and  SE  of  Forfarshire,  from  Dundee  east-north-eastward 
to  Arbroath.  It  was  authorised,  in  1836,  on  a  capital  of 
£266,700  in  shares  and  £88,900  in  loans  ;  was  opened  in 
April  1840 ;  became  amalgamated  with  the  Scottish 
North-Eastern  in  July  1863  ;  and  passed,  with  the 
North-Eastern,  to  the  Caledonian  in  July  1866.  On 
Feb.  1,  1880,  the  North  British  Railway  Co.  became 
joint  owners  of  the  line  vnt\\  the  Caledonian  Co.  It 
is  17  miles  long ;  traverses  the  parishes  of  Dundee, 
Monifieth,  Barry,  Panbride,  St  Vigeans,  Arbirlot,  and 
Arbroath  ;  and  has  junctions  at  Broughty  Ferry  with 
the  northern  terminus  or  Dundee-ward  fork  of  the 
North  British  railway,  and  at  Arbroath  with  the  E  end 
of  the  Arbroath  and  Forfar  railway,  and  through  that 
with  the  Aberdeen  section  of  the  Caledonian.  It  com- 
mences at  Trades  Lane  in  Dundee ;  runs  parallel  with 
Dock  Street ;  crosses,  for  about  a  mile,  a  baylet  of  the 
Firth  of  Tay ;  traverses  a  very  deep  rock  cutting  on  the 
Craigie  estate  ;  intersects,  at  two  different  points,  the 
road  between  Dundee  and  Broughty  Ferry  ;  goes  along 
IJroughty  Ferry  links,  and  through  the  barren  sands  of 
Monifieth  and  Barry  ;  traverses  thence,  for  6|  miles,  a 
tract  of  little  interest ;  and  has,  in  its  course,  both 
under  and  over  it,  a  number  of  beautifully  constructed 
bridges. 

Dundee  and  Forfar  Railway,  a  railway  in  the  S  of 
Forfarshire,  from  Dund(^o  north-north-eastward  to  For- 
far. It  was  authorised,  in  July  1864,  on  a  capital  of 
£125,000  in  shares  and  £40,000  in  loans  ;  is  17^  miles 
long ;  and  was  opened  in  Nov.  1870.  It  belonged,  at 
first,  to  the  Scottish  North-Eastern  Company ;  and 
passed,  with  the  rest  of  the  North-Eastern  system,  to  the 
426 


DUNDELCHACK 

Caledonian.  It  gives  direct  communication  between 
Dundee  and  Forfar,  in  lieu  of  the  circuitous  route  by 
way  of  Arbroath  ;  and  connects,  at  Forfar,  mth  the 
lines  thither  from  respectively  Arbroath  and  Perth.  A 
plot  of  9  acres  for  its  use  at  Forfar  was  purchased,  on 
the  eve  of  its  opening,  from  the  Forfar  Tovrn  Council. 

Dundee  and  Newtyle  Railway,  a  railway  in  the  SW 
of  Forfarshire,  from  Dundee  north-westward  to  Newtyle. 
It  was  originally  a  single  truck  line,  10^  miles  long, 
formed  on  an  authorised  capital  of  £140,000  in  shares 
and  £30,000  in  loans,  and  opened  in  1831  ;  was  leased 
in  perpetuity,  under  an  act  of  1846,  to  the  Dundee 
and  Perth  Company,  with  further  authorised  capital 
of  £50,000  in  shares  and  £16,606  in  loans;  underwent 
alterations  and  extensions,  under  both  that  act  and  an 
act  of  1859,  with  still  further  authorised  capital  of 
£70,000  in  preference  shares  ;  was  again  extended  and 
improved,  to  the  aggregate  length  of  4i  miles,  under 
acts  of  1862  and  1864,  on  further  authorised  capital 
of  £49,000  in  shares  and  £14,900  in  loans;  became 
amalgamated  as  part  of  the  Dundee  and  Perth  system 
with  the  Scottish  Central  in  1863  ;  and  passed,  as 
part  of  the  Scottish  Central  system,  to  the  Caledonian 
in  1865.  It  originally  left  Dundee  on  an  inclined  plane 
800  yards  long,  with  a  gradient  of  1  yard  in  10,  and 
proceeded  through  a  shoulder  of  Dundee  Law  in  a 
tunnel  340  yards  long ;  and  had  a  branch  for  goods 
traffic,  through  the  streets  of  Dundee  to  the  terminus 
of  the  Dundee  and  Perth  railway  ;  but  these  features  of 
it  have  disappeared.  A  new  reach,  in  lieu  of  the  dis- 
carded portions,  and  measuring  7f  miles  in  length,  was 
opened  in  June  1859  ;  and  a  branch  to  Lochee,  6  miles 
in  length,  was  opened  in  June  1861.  It  traverses  the 
parishes  of  Dundee,  Liff  and  Benvie,  Mains  and  Strath- 
martine, Auchterhouse,  and  Newtyle ;  ascends  an 
inclined  plane,  in  the  gorge  of  the  Sidlaws,  to  a  summit- 
elevation  of  544  feet  above  sea-level,  and  descends  a 
second  inclined  plane,  through  the  Slack  of  Newtyle, 
into  the  valley  of  Strathraore  ;  connects  there,  with 
the  North-Eastern  section  of  the  Caledonian  system,  by 
branches,  some  of  which  were  originally  its  own  ;  and 
communicates,  through  these,  with  Coupar- Angus, 
Meigle,  Glamis,  and  Forfar. 

Dundee  and  Perth  Railway,  a  railway  in  Forfar  and 
Perth  shires,  from  Dundee  west-south-westward,  along 
the  northern  bank  of  the  Tay,  to  Perth.  It  is  21 1 
miles  long,  and,  opened  in  May  1847,  was  amalga- 
mated in  1863  with  the  Scottish  Central,  with  which 
it  passed  to  the  Caledonian  in  1865.  It  commences 
at  Yeaman  Shore,  in  Dundee  ;  skirts  the  western  part 
of  that  toum  on  a  sea  embankment ;  runs  along  the 
face  of  the  romantic  cliff  of  Will's  Braes  ;  traverses 
the  charming  beach  of  Invergowrie  Bay,  near  Inver- 
gowi-ie  village  ;  crosses  the  great  sandstone  quarries  of 
Kingoodieon  a  stupendous  viaduct ;  passes  near  Inchture 
Bay  and  Powgavie  Harbour ;  sheers  off  to  some  little 
distance  from  Errol,  and  northward  of  Inchyra  ;  coin- 
cides again  with  the  river's  bank,  past  Kinnoull  ;  crosses 
the  Tay,  from  Barnhill,  on  a  magnificent  bridge  of  great 
length,  in  the  form  of  a  segment  of  a  circle,  with  the 
central  part  resting  on  an  island  ;  terminates  at  the 
Princes  station  in  Perth  ;  and  connects,  at  its  E  end, 
with  the  Dundee  and  Newtyle  railway — at  its  W  end, 
with  the  several  railways  radiating  from  Perth.  The 
scenery  along  its  course,  through  the  Carse  of  Gowrie, 
and  past  Kinnoull  Hill  all  onward  to  Perth,  is  every- 
where beautiful,  in  many  places  brilliant,  from  Glen- 
carse  to  Perth  superb.  The  final  meeting  of  the  share- 
holders as  an  independent  company  was  held  on  Jan.  6, 
1882. 

Dundavid.     See  Duntulen. 

Dundelchack  or  Dun  na  Seilcheig,  a  loch  on  the 
mutual  Ijorder  of  Daviot  and  Dores  parishes,  NE  Inver- 
ness-shire, 84  miles  SSW  of  Inverness.  Lying  702  feet 
above  sea-level,  it  has  an  utmost  length  from  SW  to  NE 
of  3|  miles,  whilst  its  breadth  varies  between  2^  furlongs 
and  1  mile.  It  sends  off  a  rivulet  eastward  to  Loch 
Clachan,  and  thence  to  tlie  river  Nairn.  Trout  and  red 
char  are  plentiful,  the  former  running  up  to  4  lbs. ,  but 


DUNDONALD 

neither  rise  very  freely  to  the  fly  ;  and  pike  of  from  3  to 
20  lbs.  may  be  taken  by  trolling. — Orel.  Sur.,  shs.  73, 
83,  1878-81. 

Dundonald,  an  ancient  castle  in  the  centre  of  Killean 
and  Kilchenzie  parish,  Kintyi-e,  Argyllshire.  From  the 
Macdonalds,  Lords  of  the  Isles,  it  passed  to  the  ances- 
tors of  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  and  i§  now  represented  by 
rude  remains. 

Dundonald,  a  village  and  a  coast  parish  of  Kyle,  Ayr- 
shire. The  village  stands,  113  feet  above  sea-level,  1§ 
mile  S  by  E  of  Drybridge  station,  4  J  miles  NE  of  Troon, 
4|  SE  of  Irvine,  and  5^  SW  of  Kilmarnock,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  ofBce.  Dundonald  Castle,  crowning  a 
beautiful  round  hill  a  little  W  of  the  village,  seems, 
from  the  style  of  its  architecture  and  from  other  circum- 
stances, to  have  been  erected  in  the  12th  or  13th  century. 
According  to  legend,  it  was  built  entirely  of  wood,  with 
never  a  wooden  pin,  by  one  Donald  Din,  or  Din  Donald, 
the  story  of  whose  em'ichment  by  the  discovery,  through 
a  dream,  of  a  pot  of  gold  is  related  also  of  a  Norfolk 
chapman,  a  spendthrift  of  Dort,  and  a  Baghdad  beggar 
(pp.  236-238  of  Robert  Chambers's  Popular  Rhymes  of 
Scotland,  ed.  1870).  The  residence  of  several  princes 
of  the  Stewart  dynasty  and  the  death-place  of  Robert  II. 
(1390),  it  has  given  the  title  of  Baron  since  1647,  of 
Earl  since  1669,  to  the  family  of  Cochrane  ;  and  now, 
with  5  roods  of  land  adjoining,  it  is  the  last  remaining 
property  in  Ayrshire  of  that  family.  Tradition  relates 
that  it  was  shorn  of  its  topmost  story  for  building  or 
improving  their  neighbouring  house  of  Auchans  ;  but  it 
still  forms  a  massive  two-story  ruin,  measuring  113  feet 
by  40,  and  retains  on  its  western  wall,  in  high  relief  but 
much  obliterated  by  time,  the  armorial  bearings  of  the 
Stewarts.  At  its  southern  end  are  shattered  remains  of 
two  or  three  arched  cells,  which  belonged  to  its  keep  or 
prison  ;  and  it  seems,  from  vestiges  still  visible,  to  have 
been  surrounded  by  a  rampart  and  a  moat.  Samuel 
Johnson  and  Boswell  were  here  in  1773. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  seaport  of  Troon  and 
the  FuLLARTON  suburb  of  Irvine,  is  bounded  N  by 
Irvine,  Dreghorn,  and  Kilmaurs,  E  by  Riccarton,  SE  by 
Symington  and  Moukton-Prestwick,  SW  and  W  by  the 
Firth  of  Clyde.  Rudely  resembling  a  triangle  in  shape, 
with  southward  apex,  it  has  an  utmost  length  from 
NNW  to  SSE  of  7|  miles,  an  utmost  breadth  from 
ENE  to  WSW  of  6i  miles,  and  an  area  of  13,404f 
acres,  of  which  940  are  foreshore  and  995  water.  The 
coast-line,  8§  miles  long,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Irvine 
to  that  of  the  Pow  Burn,  is  low  and  .sandy,  broken  only 
by  the  promontory  of  Troon,  but  fringed  by  Lappock, 
Stinking,  Mill,  Garden,  and  Seal  Rocks,  and  Little  and 
ileikle  Craigs.  The  surface  for  some  way  inland  is 
almost  a  dead  level,  and  at  its  highest  point  but  little 
exceeds  400  feet  above  the  waters  of  the  firth — said  point 
occurring  near  Harpercroft,  and  belonging  to  the  so- 
called  Claven  or  Clevance  Hills.  All  under  tillage, 
pasture,  or  wood,  these  form  a  central  ti'act,  and,  ex- 
tending about  3  miles  south-eastward  and  1^  mile  south- 
westward,  converge  to  a  culmcn,  which  commands  a 
wide  panoramic  view,  said  to  compi'ise  portions  of  four- 
teen counties.  From  just  above  Gatehead  station  to  its 
mouth,  the  river  Irvine,  winding  11  miles  west-north- 
westward, roughly  traces  all  the  boundary  with  Kil- 
maurs, Dreghorn,  and  Irvine  ;  whilst  Rumbling  Burn 
follows  that  with  Sj^mington  and  Monkton,  and  one  or 
two  smaller  rivulets  flow  through  the  interior  to  the 
firth.  The  rocks  in  the  Claven  Hills,  and  elsewhere  in 
patches,  are  eruptive  ;  in  all  other  parts,  belong  to  the 
Carboniferous  formation.  Coal  has  long  been  mined 
at  Shewalton  and  Old  Rome  ;  excellent  sandstone  is 
quarried  for  exportation  at  Craiksland  and  Collennan  ; 
and  hone-stone,  of  a  very  superior  quality,  abounds  on 
the  estate  of  Curreath.  The  soil,  to  the  breadth  of 
about  ^  mile  on  nearly  all  the  coast,  except  round 
Troon,  is  sandy  and  barren  ;  in  the  adjacent  tracts  to 
the  E,  is  of  various  character  from  light  to  loamy ;  in 
the  extreme  E,  is  mostly  a  loamy  fertile  clay  ;  and  is  a 
stiffish  clay  in  .some  other  parts.  A  very  large  propor- 
tion of  the  entire  area  is  under  cultivation,  and  much  is 


DUNDRENNAN 

devoted  to  dairy  husbandry.  A  native  was  the  cobbler- 
artist,  John  Kelso  Hunter  (1802-73).  A  famous  pre- 
Reformation  church,  'Our  Lady's  Kirk  of  Kyle,'  ad- 
joined Dundonald  Castle,  but  has  disappeared  ;  and  an 
ancient  chapel  stood  on  Chapel  Hill,  near  Hillhouso 
mansion  ;  whilst  not  far  from  Newlield  are  remains  of  a 
structure,  supposed  to  have  been  a  Roman  bath  or  reser- 
voir. A  vitrified  fort,  now  in  a  state  of  utter  dilapida- 
tion, crowned  a  projecting  eminence  between  two  ravines 
at  Kemplaw  ;  and  two  ancient  camps  are  on  the  heights 
above  Harpercroftfarm.  Auchans  House  is  an  interesting 
object ;  and  mansions  of  comparatively  modem  erection 
are  FuUarton,  Shewalton,  Ne^\'field,  Fairlie,  Curreath, 
and  Hillhouse,  7  proprietors  holding  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  9  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  31  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  100  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  In  the  presbytery  of  Ayr  and  s}Tiod  of  Glasgow 
and  Ayr,  this  parish  is  divided  into  the  quoad  sacra 
parishes  of  Troon,  Fullarton,  and  Dundonald,  the 
last  being  a  living  worth  £446.  Its  church,  built  in 
1803,  contains  630  sittings ;  and  four  public  schools — 
Dundonald,  Fullarton,  Loans,  and  Troon — with  respec- 
tive accommodation  for  129,  180,  60,  and  160  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  136,  126,  39,  and 
249,  and  grants  of  £87,  3s.,  £90,  17s.,  £27,  63.,  and 
£207,  18s.  6d.  Valuation  (1860)  £27,538  ;  (1882) 
£39,095,  3s.  Q&.,plus  £8060  for  railway.  Pop.  of  civil 
parish  (1801)  1240,  (1831)  5579,*  (1861)  7606,  (1871) 
6964,  (1881)  8089  ;  of  Dundonald  registration  district 
(1871)  1507,  (1881)  1509.— OrcZ.  Sur.,&}a..  22, 1865.  See 
the  Rev.  J.  Kirkwood's  Troon  and  Dundonald :  vnth 
their  surroundings.  Local  and  Historical  (3d  ed.,  Kilm., 
1881). 

Dundonnell,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Lochbroom 
parish,  Ross-shire,  on  the  right  bank  of  Strathbeg  river, 
8  miles  S  of  Ullapool.  Its  owner,  Murdo  Mackenzie, 
Esq.  (b.  1843  ;  sue.  1878),  holds  64,335  acres  in  the 
shire,  valued  at  £3672  per  annum. 

Dundonnie,  a  small  green  islet  of  Peterhead  parish, 
Aberdeenshire,  opposite  Sterling  Hill,  and  5  furlongs  S 
by  W  of  Buchan  Ness.     It  formerly  had  a  salt-pan. 

Dundomadil.     See  Dornadilla. 

Diindreich,  a  huge  rounded  hill  near  the  eastern  bor- 
der of  Eddleston  parish,  NE  Peeblesshire.  It  culminates 
2|  miles  NE  of  Eddleston  village  at  an  altitude  of  1954 
feet  above  sea-level,  and  commands  views  into  Lanark- 
shire, over  the  Lothians,  and  from  the  Cheviots  to  the 
Grampians. 

Dundrennan  (Gael,  dun-nan-droigheann,  '  fort  of  the 
thorn  bushes'),  a  village  and  a  ruined  abbey  in  Rer- 
wick  parish,  Kirkcudbrightshire.  The  village  stands 
in  a  narrow  valley,  on  the  right  bank  of  Abbey  Bum, 
1|  mile  N  by  W  of  the  coast  at  Port  Mary,  and  5  miles 
ESE  of  Kirkcudbright,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 
Its  environs  are  charming,  with  vantage  grounds  com- 
manding fine  views  inland,  down  the  valley,  and  across 
the  Solway  Firth  ;  and  the  village  itself  consists  of  a 
single  row  of  one-story  houses  containing  many  stones 
from  the  ruined  abbey,  and  interspersed  with  fine  old 
trees.  At  it  are  2  inns,  the  manse  and  parish  chuixh 
of  Rerwick,  and  a  public  school.  The  abbey,  standing 
in  the  south-eastern  vicinity  of  the  village, was  founded 
in  1142,  for  Cistercian  monks,  by  Fergus,  Lord  of  Gal- 
loway ;  passed,  with  its  property,  in  1587  to  the  Crown; 
and  was  annexed,  in  1621,  to  the  royal  chapel  of  Stir- 
ling. It  fell  into  such  neglect  and  dilapidation  as  long 
to  form  a  quarry  for  repairing  or  erecting  neighbouring 
houses ;  but  .still  is  represented  by  considerable  remains, 
with  interesting  architectural  features,  and  in  1842  was 
cleared  out  and  put  into  a  state  of  conservation  by  the 
Commissioners  of  "Woods  and  Forests.  Its  church  was 
cruciform,  comprising  a  six-bayed  nave  (1304  x  30  feet), 
with  side  aisles  15^  feet  wide,  a  transept  (107  x  28  feet), 
a  choir  (45  x  26  feel;),  and  a  central  tower  and  spire  200 
feet  high  ;  and  was  partly  in  the  Transition  Norman 
style,  but  chiefly  in  the  First  Pointed.  The  cloisters 
were  on   the   S   side   of  the   church,   and  enclosed  a 

♦  Au  increase  largely  due  to  the  annexation  of  Troon.  Halfway, 
and  Shewalton  from  Irvine. 

427 


DUNDUFF 

square  area  of  108  by  104  feet ;  various  monastic 
offices  stood  still  further  S,  and  occupied  a  space  of 
nearly  300  square  feet ;  and  to  the  S  of  the  S  transept 
stood  the  chapter-house  (51 1  x  35  feet).  The  chief  extant 
portions  of  the  pile  are  the  N  and  S  walls  of  the  choir  ; 
the  E  aisle  of  the  S  transept ;  part  of  the  N  transept ;  a 
few  feet  of  the  piers  of  the  central  tower,  remarkable  for 
their  unequal  dimensions  ;  the  doorway  of  the  chapter- 
house, flanked  on  each  side  by  a  double  window ;  the 
cells  or  cellars  at  the  entrance  to  the  garden  ;  and 
several  curious  monuments — of  Allan  Lord  of  Galloway 
(1234),  Prior  Blakomor,  an  abbot,  a  nun  (1440),  a  cellarer 
(1480),  Sir  "William  Livingstoun  (1607),  etc.  Queen 
ilary  is  commonly  said  to  have  ridden  straight  from 
Langside  to  Duntlrennan,  or  at  least  to  have  passed  the 
last  night  (May  15,  1568)  of  her  sojourn  in  Scotland 
here  ;  but  Dr  Hill  Burton  questions  this  belief,  chal- 
lenging the  authenticity  of  her  letter  to  Elizabeth  'from 
Dimdreunan,'  and  upholding  the  counter-claims  of  Ter- 
iiEGLES,  Lord  Herries'  house.  The  estate  of  Dundren- 
nan  lies  round  the  village  and  the  abbey,  and  has  long 
been  the  property  of  the  Maitlands  of  Dundrennan  and 
CoMPSTONE. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  5,  1857.  See  the  Rev. 
.ffineas  B.  Hutchison's  Memorials  of  the  Abbey  of  Dun- 
drennan (Exeter,  1857),  and  J.  H.  Maxwell's  Dundren- 
nan Abbey,  and  its  History  (Castle-Douglas,  1875). 

Dunduff,  a  farm  in  Maybole  parish,  Ayrshire,  6  miles 
SW  of  Ayr.  It  contains  a  ruined  baronial  fortalice,  the 
shell  of  the  ancient  church  of  Kirkbride,  with  a  burying- 
ground  still  in  use,  and  a  field  called  the  Priest's  Land 
adjoining  that  graveyard. 

Dundurcus,  an  ancient  parish  on  the  E  border  of 
Elginshire,  on  both  sides  of  the  river  Spey,  6J  miles 
SSW  of  Fochabers.  It  was  suppressed  in  1782  or  1788, 
when  the  part  of  it  on  the  right  side  of  the  Spey,  except- 
ing the  small  property  of  Aikenway,  was  annexed  to 
Boharm  ;  whilst  that  on  the  left  side,  together  with 
Aikenway,  was  annexed  to  Rothes.  The  portion  of  it 
adjacent  to  the  river  is  a  beautiful  haugh,  and  bears  the 
name  of  Dundurcus  Vale.  Its  church  and  buryiug- 
ground  were  situated  on  the  verge  of  a  plateau  over- 
looking the  haugh,  2  miles  NE  of  Rothes  village  ;  and 
the  chmxh  still  exists  in  a  state  of  ruin  ;  while  the 
burj-ing-ground  was  re-enclosed,  about  1835,  with  a  sub- 
tantial  wall. 

Dundum,  an  ancient  parish  in  Strathoarn,  Perthshire, 
at  the  foot  of  Loch  Earn,  now  annexed  to  Comrie,  and 
originally  called  Duinduirn  or  Dundearn  after  a  dun  or 
fortified  hill  at  the  foot  of  the  loch.  The  principal 
stronghold  of  the  district  of  Fortrenn,  this  dun  was 
besieged  in  683  ;  and  Grig  or  Girig,  King  of  the  Picts, 
was  slain  at  it  in  889.     See  St  Fillans. 

Dund3rvan.     See  Coatiuudge. 

Duneam  Hill.     See  Buiintisland. 

Duneaton  Water,  a  stream  of  the  upper  ward  of 
Lanarkshire,  rising  on  the  SE  slope  of  Cainitable  (1944 
feet)  at  an  altitude  of  1550.  Thence  it  winds  19  miles 
€ast-by-northward,  partly  on  the  boundary  between 
Douglas  and  Ckawfokdjoun,  but  chiefly  through  the 
interior  of  the  latter  parish,  till,  after  a  total  descent  of 
800  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Clyde  at  a  point  Ig  mile  below 
Abington.  It  receives  so  many  little  aflluents,  that 
over  the  last  4  or  5  miles  of  its  course  it  has  an  average 
width  of  40  feet ;  it  is  frequently  swept  by  freshets, 
overflowing  alluvial  lands  on  its  banks  ;  it  occasionally 
changes  portions  of  its  channel  and  lines  of  its  fords  ; 
and  it  is  an  excellent  trouting  stream. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
15,  1864. 

Dunecht,  a  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Crawford  in  Echt 
parisli,  Aberdeenshire,  5^  miles  SSW  of  Kintore  sta- 
tion, and  12  W  of  Aberdeen,  under  which  there  is  a 
post  office  of  Dunecht.  Originally  a  Grecian  edifice  of 
1820,  it  has  received  a  number  of  addition.s,  the  latest 
and  most  important  that  of  1877-81,  from  designs  by 
the  late  Mr  G.  E.  Street,  R.A.  Among  its  more  note- 
worthy features  are  the  observatory,  tlie  library,  and 
tlie  private  chapel,  from  the  vault  beneath  which,  in 
the  summer  of  1881,  was  stolen  the  body  of  Alexander 
William  Lindsay  (1812-80),  twenty-fifth  Earl  of  Craw- 
428 


DUNFERMLINE 

ford  since  1398  and  eighth  Earl  of  Balcarres  since  1651, 
who  was  author  of  works  on  the  Lindsay  family,  the 
Mar  peerage,  Etruscan  inscriptions,  etc.  His  son  and 
successor,  James  Ludovic  Lindsay  (b.  1847),  who  is 
president  of  the  Royal  Astronomical  Society,  holds  8855 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £6160  per  annum.  See 
Crawford  and  Balcarres. 

Duneira.    See  Dunira. 

Dunemarle.    See  Dunimarle. 

Dunevan,  an  ancient  fort  near  Cawdor,  in  Nairnshire. 
It  has  two  ramparts,  enclosing  an  oblong  level  space,  on 
the  toji  of  a  hill ;  it  contains,  within  that  space,  traces 
of  a  well,  and  remains  of  a  large  mass  of  garrison  build- 
ings ;  and  it  held  beacon  communication,  through  inter- 
mediate forts,  with  Dundardil  on  Loch  Ness. 

Dunfallandy,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Logierait 
parish,  Perthshire,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Tummel, 
1^  mile  SSE  of  Pitlochry.  Its  owner.  Miss  Fergusson 
(sue.  1836),  holds  842  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £513 
per  annum.  Of  two  stones  here,  one]  marks  the  scene 
of  a  dreadful  murder  and  usurpation';  the  other,  half- 
sunk  in  the  ground,  is  carved  with  grotesque  figures  of 
animals,  and  was  long  regarded  with  much  superstitious 
awe. 

Dunfermline,  a  city  and  parish  in  the  SW  of  Fife. 
A  royal  and  parliamentary  burgh,  a  place  of  manufacture, 
and  the  seat  of  administration  for  the  western  division  of 
the  county,  the  city  stands  on  the  North  British  line  of 
railway  from  Thornton  Junction  to  Stirling,  at  the 
junction  of  a  mineral  line  southward  to  Charlestown 
harbour,  and  of  a  passenger  line  south-eastward  to 
North  Queensferry,  by  road  being  5^  miles  NW  of 
North  Queensferry,  16  NW  of  Edinburgh,  and  29  S 
of  Perth,  whilst  by  rail  it  is  7^  WSW  of  Lochgelly, 
15|  WSW  of  Thornton  Junction,  29  SW  of  Cupar,  13^ 
E  by  S  of  AUoa,  20^  E  by  S  of  Stirling,  and  42;^  NE 
by  E  of  Glasgow.  Its  site  is  variously  flat  and  slop- 
ing, but  consists  mainly  of  a  longish  eminence,  which, 
stretching  from  E  to  W,  rises  to  a  height  of  354  feet 
above  sea-level,  and  presents  a  somewhat  bold  ascent  to 
the  N.  The  environs  abound  in  diversities  of  surface, 
enriched  with  floral  ornament,  and  gemmed  with  fine 
close  views ;  and  the)'  contain  a  number  of  mansions, 
villas,  and  pretty  cottages.  The  city,  as  seen  from  any 
point  near  enough  to  command  a  distinct  view,  yet 
distant  enough  to  comprehend  it  as  a  whole,  looks  to  be 
embosomed  in  wood ;  and  over  the  tree-tops  rise  Queen 
Anne  Street  U.  P.  church,  '  with  its  enormous  rectilinear 
ridge,'  the  steeples  of  the  County  Buildings,  the  Town 
House,  and  the  old  Abbey  church,  with  the  fine  square 
tower  of  its  modern  neighbour.  A  stranger,  approaching 
Dunfermline  for  the  first  time,  forms  a  very  mistaken 
notion  of  its  extent,  supposing  it  to  be  little  else  than 
a  large  village  in  a  grove  ;  and,  on  entering,  is  sur- 
prised to  find  himself  in  a  city  teeming  with  activity, 
bustling  Avith  trade,  and  every  way  worthy  of  ranking 
with  the  foremost  burghs.  Some  vantage  spots  within 
the  town,  especially  the  vicinity  of  the  Abbey  and  the 
top  of  the  Abbey  church  tower,  command  extensive 
panoramic  prospects.  First,  from  the  top  of  the 
tower  are  seen  the  rich  tracts  of  south-western  Fife, 
together  with  their  equally  fine  continuation  through 
the  detached  district  of  Perthshire  and  througli  Clack- 
mannanshire, to  the  Ochils ;  beyond  is  the  Firth  of 
Forth,  from  Nortli  Queensferry  to  Culross,  sometimes 
concealed  by  an  elevated  strip  of  coast,  but  here  and 
there  beheld  in  all  its  breadth  through  various  open- 
ings, and  rendered  everywhere  more  picturesque  by 
thus  being  chequered  with  land;  further  still  are  the 
southern  banks  and  screens  of  the  Forth,  beautifully 
undulated  and  luxuriantly  fertile,  the  many-wooded 
swells  of  the  Lothians,  the  heights  of  Edinburgh,  occa- 
sionally its  very  spires,  the  jjleasure -grounds  of  Hope- 
toun,  tlie  i^romontory  of  Blackness,  the  harbour  of 
JiorrowstouTiness,  and  the  '  links '  of  tlie  Forth  to  the 
vicinity  of  Stirling  ;  and,  at  the  limits  of  vision,  are 
the  Lammermuirs  of  Haddington  and  Berwick  shires, 
Soutra  Hill  at  the  watershed  of  the  Gala  and  tlie  Tyne, 
the  Pentlauds  in  Midlothian,  Tiuto  in  Lanarkshire,  the 


DUNFERMLINE 

Campsie  Fells  in  Stirlingshire,  and  Ben  Lomond  and  I 
Ben  Ledi  among  the  south-western  Grampians.  ] 

The  alignment  and  architecture  of  the  town  are  far  ■ 
from  corresponding  ^vith  the  exterior  views.  The  older  ■ 
streets  are  narrow  and  irregular  ;  the  principal  streets, 
though  containing  substantial  houses,  want  some 
character  of  spaciousness,  length,  or  elegance,  to  render 
them  imposing  ;  and  all  the  streets  taken  together  fail 
to  present  an  urban  aspect.  Yet  some  portions,  either 
from  their  neatness,  from  their  impressive  antiquity,  or 
from  combinations  of  striking  natural  feature  and  fine 
artificial  ornature,  are  variously  pleasing,  attractive, 
and  picturesque.  Several  streets  are  entirely  modern — 
one  of  the  newest  in  a  style  displaying  much  good 
taste  ;  others,  even  the  oldest,  have  been  materially 
improved ;  and  a  large  suburb  in  the  W  is  entirely 
modern.  A  bridge,  294  feet  in  length,  was  built  (1767-70) 
at  a  cost  of  more  than  £5500  by  George  Chalmers,  across 
Pittencrieff  Glen  or  the  glen  of  the  Tower  Bum,  and 
became  so  surmounted  by  excellent  houses  and  good 
shops,  as  to  be  one  of  the  best  of  the  modem  streets. 
Pittencrieff  Glen,  even  -within  itself,  through  combina- 
tion of  romantic  natural  features  with  interesting  ancient 
monuments,  is  highly  attractive  ;  and,  as  to  situation, 
'  is  a  most  agreeable  surprise,  hanging  on  the  skirts  of  a 
manufacturing  town  like  a  jewel  on  an  Ethiop's  ear.' 
The  demesne,  around  Pittencrieff  mansion,  includes  the 
glen,  and  spreads  away  to  the  SW  ;  and  the  glen  con- 
tains the  remains  of  a  tower  of  Malcolm  Ceannmor, 
and  of  a  subsequent  royal  palace, — ^which  ruins,  with 
ground  around  them  sufficient  to  give  access  thereto, 
were  in  1871  pronounced  by  the  House  of  Lords  to 
be  Grown  property.  'The  moment  you  leave  the 
street,'  says  Mercer,  'you  enter  a  private  gate,  and 
are  on  the  verge  of  a  deep  glen  filled  with  fine  old 
trees,  that  wave  their  foliage  over  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  palace  ;  and  a  little  further  on  is  the  peninsular 
mount  on  which  Malcolm  Ceannmor  resided  in  his 
stronghold.  Round  the  base  of  the  mount  winds  a 
rivulet,  over  which  is  a  bridge  leading  to  the  mansion- 
house,  situated  on  the  further  bank  in  a  spacious  park, 
well-wooded,  adorned  with  shmbberies,  and  having  a 
splendid  prospect  to  the  S.  The  ground,  too,  is  classical, 
for  amidst  this  scenery,  three  centuries  ago,  when  it  was 
even  more  romantic  than  it  is  at  present,  must  often 
have  wandered  the  poet  Henrysoun,  holding  sweet  dal- 
liance with  the  Muses.' 

Malcolm's  Tower  is  believed  to  have  been  built  between 
1057  and  1070.  It  crowned  a  very  steep  eminence, 
rising  abruptly  from  Pittencrieff  Glen,  and  forming  a 
peninsula ;  and  was  described  by  Fordun  as  extremely 
strong  in  natural  situation,  and  defended  by  rocky  cliffs. 
Its  foundations  were  70  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
rivulet  below,  but  could  not,  from  the  nature  of  the 
site,  have  been  of  very  great  extent,  probably  not  more 
than  about  60  feet  from  E  to  W,  and  55  feet  from  N 
to  S,  with  a  pyramidal  roof.  The  tower  appears  to 
have  had  great  thickness  of  wall,  but  has  been  stripped 
to  the  ground  of  all  its  hewn  outside  stones,  and  is  now 
only  represented  by  a  connected  angle  or  fragment  of 
the  S  and  AV  walls,  measuring  31  feet  on  the  S,  and  44 
feet  on  the  W,  with  a  height  of  about  8  feet.  In  spite 
of  its  diminutive  character,  however,  this  tower  was  the 
place  of  Malcolm  Ceannmor's  marriage  to  the  Saxon 
princess,  St  Margaret,  in  the  spring  of  1068,  as  well  as 
the  birthplace  of  '  the  Good  Queen  Maud,'  wife  of  Henry 
I.  of  England.  About  290  yards  NXE  of  the  Tower  i"s 
St  Margaret's  Cave,  which,  as  cleared  of  debris  in  1877, 
measures  llf  by  8^  feet,  and  is  6|  feet  high.  The 
Royal  Palace  may  have  been  founded  as  early  as  1100, 
though  the  so-called  Arabic  numerals  of  the  Annuncia- 
tion Stone  turned  out  in  1859  to  be  really  the  last  four 
letters  of  the  motto  Confido.  More  likely  it  was  not 
built  till  after  the  departure  of  Edward  1.  of  England  in 
February  1304.  Said  to  have  been  burned  by  Richard  II. 
in  1385,  it  was  restored  and  enlarged  about  1540  by 
James  V.;  passed  into  neglect  after  Charles  II. 's  time  ; 
and,  becoming  roofless  in  1708,  is  now  a  total  ruin.  It 
occupies  a  romantic  site  a  little  SE  of  Malcolm's  Tower, 


DUNFERMLINE 

and  comprises  no  more  than  remains  of  the  SW  wall, 
measuring  205  feet  in  length,  59  in  exterior  height,  and  31 
interiorly  from  the  sill  of  a  window  on  the  first  floor  ;  is 
strongly  supported  by  8  buttresses ;  and  has  several  cross- 
muUioned  ^rindows,  and  one  oriel,  over  which  a  16th 
century  sculpture  representing  the  Annunciation  was 
disco%'ered  in  1812.  In  that  year  the  old  palace  was  so 
far  repaired  by  the  proprietor  of  Pittencrieff  as  to  be 
likely  to  resist,  for  a  long  period,  any  further  dilapida- 
tion. The  kings  of  Scotland,  from  Robert  Bruce  onward, 
appear  to  have  frequently  resided  in  this  palace.  James 
IV.  was  more  in  it  than  any  of  his  immediate  prede- 
cessors ;  James  V.  and  his  daughter.  Queen  Mary,  re- 
sided here ;  James  VI.  subscribed  the  Solemn  League  and 
Covenant  in  it  ;  and  at  it  were  bom  David  II.  (1323), 
James  I.  (1394),  Charles  I.  (1600),  and  his  sister  Eliza- 
beth (1596),  the  'Winter  Queen'  of  Bohemia.  Here, 
too,  the  'young  man,  Charles  Stewart,'  kept  his  small 
court,  and  was  kept  in  courteous  restraint,  at  the  time 
of  Cromwell's  invasion  in  1650  ;  here  on  16  Aug.  he 
subscribed  the  '  Dunfermline  Declaration,'  a  testimony 
against  his  own  father's  malignancy. 

A  building  called  the  Queen's  House,  to  the  NE  of  the 
Royal  Palace,  with  which  it  communicated  by  a  gallery, 
stood  in  the  middle  of  the  street,  to  the  N  of  the  present 
Fended  Tower,  and  extended  nearly  to  the  great  W  door 
of  the  Abbey  Church  ;  took  its  name  from  having  been 
rebuilt  in  1600  by  Queen  Anne  of  Denmark  and  from 
having  been  her  personal  propei-ty ;  was  partially  in- 
habited tiU  1778,  but  was  entirely  removed  in  1797. 
The  residence  of  the  Constable  of  the  royal  buildings 
stood  immediately  N  of  the  Queen's  House.  An 
aperture,  originally  about  4  feet  high,  and  2\  feet  wide, 
but  now  so  choked  with  earth  as  to  be  only  2|  feet  high, 
is  near  the  NW  comer  of  the  Palace,  and  forms  the 
entrance  to  a  dark  subterraneous  passage  branching  into 
olfshoots,  and  measuring  98i  feet  in  total  length.  The 
Fended  or  Fended  Tower,  connecting  the  Palace  and  the 
Abbe}-,  is  a  massive  oblong  structure,  with  elegant  groined 
archway  on  the  line  of  the  street ;  presents  interesting 
features  of  strong  ribbed  arches  and  Transition  Norman 
windows  ;  and  now  is  35  feet  long,  47  high,  and  16 
broad,  but  was  formerly  more  extensive.  The  old 
market-cross  of  1626,  similar  to  the  ancient  crosses  of 
Edinburgh,  Aberdeen,  Peebles,  and  other  old  burghs, 
according  to  the  Vandal  taste  with  which  such  things 
were  regarded  in  last  century,  was  removed  in  1752, 
when  its  shaft,  about  8  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a 
unicom  bearing  a  shield  with  St  Andrew's  Cross,  was 
built  into  the  comer  of  a  neighbouring  house.  There  it 
remained  tiU  1868,  when  it  was  re-erected  within  the 
railings  of  the  County  Buildings. 

The  Abbey  originated  in  the  founding  in  1072  of  the 
church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  by  Malcolm  Ceannmor.  It 
was  endowed  both  by  that  king  and  by  his  sons  Ethelred 
and  Eadgar,  and  was  completed  and  further  endowed  by 
Alexander  I.  in  1115.  Remodelled  in  1124  as  a  Benedic- 
tine Abbey  by  David  I.,  who  placed  in  it  an  abbot  and 
twelve  brethren  brought  from  Canterbury,  it  had  become 
by  the  close  of  the  13th  century  one  of  the  most  extensive 
and  magnificent  monastic  establishments  in  Scotland. 
Matthew  of  Westminster,  speaking  of  what  it  was  at 
that  time,  says,  '  Its  boundaries  were  so  ample,  con- 
taining within  its  precincts  three  carmcates  of  land, 
and  having  so  many  princely  buildings,  that  three 
potent  soverei.gns,  with  their  retinues,  might  have  been 
accommodated  \vith  lodgings  here  at  the  same  time  with- 
out incommoding  one  another.'  It  was  occupied  by  Ed- 
ward I.  of  England  from  6  Nov.  1303  till  10  Feb.  1304  ; 
and  by  him  was  set  on  fire,  and  otherwise  much  injured, 
along  with  the  Palace,  at  his  departure.  It  was  re- 
stored in  much  less  probably  than  its  former  magnifi- 
cence, after  the  kingdom  became  settled  under  Bruce  ; 
but,  on  28  March  1560,  its  choir,  transepts,  and  belfry 
were,  with  the  monastic  buildings,  '  cast  down  '  by  the 
Reformers.  Tlie  nave  alone  was  spared,  and  this  was 
refitted  in  1564,  as  again  in  1594-99,  for  use  as  a  parish 
church,  acquiring  then  a  north-western  spire,  156  feet 
hieh  ;  and  so  continuing,  under  the  name  of  the  AuM 

^  429 


DUNFERMLINE 

Kirk,  till  1821.  The  church,  when  complete,  must 
have  been  cruciform,  comprising  a  seven-bayed  nave 
with  side  aisles  (106  x  55  feet),  a  transept  (115  x  73  feet), 
a  choir  \vith  a  lady-chapel  (100  x  55  feet),  and  three 
towers — two  western  ones  terminating  the  aisles,  and 
flanking  the  gable  of  the  nave  ;  and  the  great  central 
tower,  rising  from  the  crossing.  Four  tall  and  beautiful 
Pointed  windows,  in  the  N  wall  of  the  N  transept,  con- 
tinued standing  till  1818,  when  they  were  removed, 
along  with  the  remains  of  the  choir,  to  give  place  to  the 
new  church.  Judiciously  repaired  by  the  Commissioners 
of  "Woods  and  Forests  in  1847,  the  nave  now  serves  as  a 
noble  vestibule  to  the  said  new  church,  and  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  the  architecture  of  the  age  in  which  it  was 
erected  (1072-1175).  Most  of  its  windows  have  been 
filled  with  stained  glass — memorials  to  Queen  Anna- 
bella  (1860),  the  Rev.  Dr  Chalmers  (1871),  the  Reids 
(1873),  the  Alexanders  (1873),  the  Douglases  (1877),  etc. 
The  style  is  Anglo-Norman,  but  the  external  effect  is 
a  good  deal  marred  by  the  enormous  buttresses  of  1594. 
Over  the  gi-and  western  doorway  is  a  window  of  Third 
Pointed  character,  and,  on  either  side  of  that  doorway, 
a  narrow  square  tower,  with  Second  Pointed  windows. 
The  N  aisle  is  entered  by  a  porch,  with  a  Norman 
arcade  above  it ;  the  inner  doorway  has  very  rich 
Norman  moulding  ;  the  archway  next  the  door  forms  part 
of  James  VI. 's  reconstruction,  and  is  in  the  First  Pointed 
style.  The  groined  roof  is  of  later  date  than  most  of  the 
interior,  and  out  of  keeping  with  the  Norman  ornaments, 
and  the  channelled  piers  separating  the  aisles  from  the 
nave  have  decorations  somewhat  similar  to  those  of 
Durham  Cathedral.  '  The  upright  mouldings  or  pilasters 
are  of  Norman  character,  alternately  poh'gonal  and  cir- 
cular, the  shafts  imdecorated.  The  interior  tiers  of  mould- 
ing of  the  arch  are  of  toothed  and  rose  work  ;  while  a 
broad  band  of  sculpture,  representing  gi-otesque  heads, 
animals,  and  foliage,  spreads  round  the  whole,  and  is 
surmounted  by  a  narrow  decorated  moulding,  resembling 
the  character  of  a  later  period. '  The  frater-hall  or  re- 
fectory (121  X  34  feet)  of  the  monks  stood  to  the  S  of  the 
church,  and  still  exists  in  a  state  of  ruin  to  the  extent 
of  the  S  front  wall  and  the  W  gable.  It  has,  in  the  S 
front  wall,  nine  tall  and  graceful  \vindows  ;  and  in  the 
W  gable  a  well-preserved  Decorated  window  of  7  lights, 
measuring  20  feet  in  height,  and  16  feet  in  breadth,  and 
characterised  by  the  intertwining  of  its  mullions  into 
compartments,  each  crossed  in  quatrefoil. 

The  Abbey  had  great  wealth  and  power,  owned  nearly 
all  the  lands  in  western  Fife,  part  of  the  lands  in  south- 
em  and  eastern  Fife,  various  lands  in  other  counties,  and 
at  one  time  the  barony  of  Musselburgh  in  Midlothian. 
It  possessed  the  right  of  a  free  regality,  with  civil  juris- 
diction equivalent  to  that  of  a  sheriff  over  the  occupiers 
of  the  lands  belonging  to  it,  and  with  a  criminal  juris- 
diction equivalent  to  that  of  the  Crown,  wielding  the 
t)ower  of  life  and  death.  A  bailie  of  regality,  appointed 
)y  the  abbot  and  officiating  in  his  name,  resided  in  an 
edifice  called  the  Bailie  House,  near  the  Queen's  House, 
and  presided  in  the  regality  courts.  The  property  of 
the  Abbey  was  held,  from  1560  till  1584  by  Robert 
Pitcairn,  from  1584  till  1587  by  the  Master  of  Grey,  and 
from  1587  till  1589  by  Henry  Pitcairn  ;  and  was  then 
constituted  a  temporal  lordship,  and  conferred  upon 
Anne  of  Denmark,  queen  of  James  VI.  The  office  of 
heritable  bailie  of  the  lordship  was  given,  in  1593,  by 
Queen  Anne  to  Alexander  Seton,  who  afterwards  became 
Earl  of  Dunfermline  ;  and  was  recanted,  along  vdth  a 
57  years'  lease  of  the  feu-duties  and  rent  of  the  lordship, 
by  Charles  I.  to  the  second  Earl  of  Dunfermline.  In 
1665  it  passed  to  the  Earl  of  Twceddale,  in  lieu  of  a 
debt  due  to  him  by  the  Earl  of  Dunfermline  ;  was  con- 
firmed or  vested,  in  1669,  to  the  Marquis  of  Twceddale  by 
royal  charter  ;  and,  in  common  with  the  other  heritable 
jurisdictions  in  Scotland,  was  abolished  in  1748,  its  value 
(reckoned  at  £8000)  being  compensated  with  £2672. 
The  Abbey  Church  succeeded  lona  as  the  place  of  royal 
and  princely  sepulture,  and  so  received  the  ashes  of 
many  kings,  princes,  and  other  notable  persons.  The 
chief  of  these  were  Malcolm  Ceannmor,  his  queen  St 
430 


DUNFERMLINE 

Margaret,*  and  their  sons  Eadward,  Eadmund,  and 
Ethelred ;  King  Donald  Ban  ;  King  Eadgar  ;  Alex- 
ander I.  and  his  queen  Sibylla ;  David  I.  and  his 
two  queens ;  Malcolm  IV.  ;  Malcolm,  Earl  of  Athol, 
and  his  countess,  in  the  reign  of  William  the  Lyon  ; 
Alexander  III.,  his  queen  Margaret,  and  their  sons 
David  and  Alexander  ;  King  Robert  Bruce,  his  queen 
Elizabeth,  and  their  daughter  Mathildis ;  Annabella 
Drummond,  queen  of  Robert  III.  and  mother  of 
James  I. ;  Constantine  and  WiUiam  Ramsay,  Earls  of 
Fife  ;  Randolph,  Earl  of  Moray,  Regent  of  Scotland 
during  the  minority  of  David  II.  ;  Robert,  Duke  of 
Albany  and  Governor  of  Scotland  ;  Elizabeth  Wardlaw, 
author  oi  liar dimnutc,  and  other  famous  ballads;  and 
Ralph  Erskine,  one  of  the  founders  of  the  Secession 
Church.  The  remains  of  King  Robert  Bruce,  as  strik- 
ingly narrated  in  Sir  Walter  Scott's  Talcs  of  a  Grand- 
father, were  discovered  in  1818  at  the  digging  for  the 
foundation  of  the  new  parish  church.  Thej'  were  found 
wrapped  in  a  pall  of  cloth  of  gold,  thrown  apparently 
over  two  coverings  of  sheet-lead  in  which  the  body  was 
encased,  all  being  enclosed  in  a  stone  coffin.  There  was 
strong  internal  evidence  of  the  remains  being  those  of 
Robert  Bruce,  and,  after  a  cast  of  the  skull  had  been 
taken,  they  were  replaced  in  the  coffin,  immersed  in 
melted  pitch,  and  reinterred  under  mason-work  in  front 
of  the  pulpit  of  the  new  parish  church.  Not  Bruce's 
tombstone,  then,  was  that  which  Robert  Burns  '  knelt 
down  upon  and  kissed  with  sacred  fervour,'  thereafter 
ascending  the  pulpit  and  delivering  a  rebuke  to  his 
friend  who  had  mounted  the  cutty  stool,  20  Oct. 
1787. 

The  new  parish  church,  or  New  Abbey  Church,  was 
built  in  1818-21  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £11,000.  Cruciform 
in  plan  and  Perpendicular  in  style,  it  contains,  among 
other  decorations,  a  stained-glass  ^vindow,  erected  in 
1881  as  a  memorial  of  the  late  Earl  of  Elgin  and  Kincard- 
ine, Governor-General  of  India,  and  illustrative  of  in- 
cidents in  the  life  of  Christ.  In  the  S  transept  are 
three  much  admired  white  marble  monuments.  General 
Bruce's  by  Foley  (1868),  the  Hon.  Dash  wood  Preston 
Bruce's  by  Noble  (1870),  and  Lady  Augusta  Stanley's 
by  Miss  Grant  of  Kilgraston  (1876).  The  church  has, 
near  the  E  end,  a  fine  square  tower  103  feet  high,  with 
terminals  indicating  it  to  be  practically  a  mausoleum 
over  the  remains  of  the  royal  Bruce.  These  terminals 
show  an  open-hewn  stonework,  in  the  place  of  a  Gothic 
balustrade,  having  in  capital  letters  4  feet  high,  on  tlie 
four  sides  of  the  tower's  summit,  the  words  '  King  Robert 
The  Bruce, '  with  royal  crowns  surmounting  the  letters  ; 
and  at  each  corner  of  the  tower  there  is  a  lofty  pinnacle. 
The  church  was  repaired  in  1835,  and  contains  nominally 
2050  sittings,  but  is  available  practically  for  only  about 
1400  persons.  St  Andrew's  Church,  in  North  Chapel 
Street,  buUt  in  1833  as  a  chapel  of  ease,  and  constituted 
a  quoad  sacra  church  in  1835,  contains  797  sittings.  The 
North  Church,  at  the  E  end  of  Golf  drum  Street,  was  built, 
in  1840,  as  an  extension  church  ;  is  likewise  now  a  quoad 
sacra  parish  church  ;  and  contains  800  sittings.  Three 
Free  churches  are  in  the  town,  and  bear  the  same  names 
as  the  three  Established  ones — Abbey,  St  Andrew's,  and 
North  (1850  ;  760  sittings).  In  1882  the  congrega- 
tion of  Free  Abbey  Church,  dating  from  1843,  built 
a  new  church  in  Canmore  Street.  A  Romanesque 
octagonal  structure,  with  pinnacles  at  the  corneis, 
this,  as  seen  from  a  distance,  presents  a  pyramidal 
appearance,  the  total  height  being  100  feet.  It  seats 
800,  and  cost,  with  adjoining  hall,  £5500.  Four  U.  P. 
churches  also  are  in    the  town — Queen  Anno  Street 

*  Malcolm  was  buried  first  at  Tynemouth,  but  afterwards  taken 
to  Dunfermline  ;  and  here  in  1250  his  bones  were  laid  by  his 
wife's  when  these  were  translated  to  a  richly-decorated  shrine. 
The  history  of  fSt  Margaret's  head  is  curious— in  15G0  brought  to 
Edinburgh  Castle  at  Queen  Mary's  request ;  in  1567  removed  to  the 
Laird  of  Durie's  house  ;  in  1597  delivered  to  the  Jesuits  ;  in  IDJO 
exposed  to  veneration  at  Antwerp  ;  and  in  1627  transferred  to  the 
Scots  College  at  Douay,  whence  it  disappeared  in  the  French 
Revolution.  Her  other  relics,  with  those  of  her  husband,  stem 
tf>  have  been  jilaccd  by  Philip  II.  of  S|)ain  in  the  church  of  St 
Lawrence  at  the  Escurial  (Uill  Uurton,  UUt.  Scoti,  i.  381,  ed. 
Ib70). 


DUNFERMLINE 

(1798-1800;  1642  sittinccs),  Chalmers  Street  (1861-62; 
430  sittings),  St  Margare't's  (1826-27;  979  sittings),  and 
Gillespie  (1848-49 ;  600  sittings),  the  last,  on  the  highest 
ground  in  the  city,  being  a  handsome  Gothic  edifice, 
■R-ith  stained  vrindows  and  a  marble  font.  Queen 
Anne  Street  U.P.  church  occupies  the  site  of  a  former 
church  built  in  1741  for  Ralph  Erskine,  one  of  the 
parish  ministers  of  Dunfermline,  and  afterwards  one  of 
the  founders  of  the  Secession  body.  It  is  a  gaunt  and 
ungainly  edifice,  remarkably  conspicuous,  but  inter- 
nally very  commodious.  On  a  plot  of  grouud  in  front 
is  a  stone  statue  (1849)  of  Ralph  Erskine,  by  Handyside 
Ritchie.  The  Independent  Chapel,  in  Canmore  Street, 
was  built  in  1841,  has  a  good  organ,  and  contains  700 
sittings.  The  Evangelical  Union  Chapel,  in  Bath  Street, 
is  more  recent,  and  contains  310  sittings.  A  new  Gothic 
Baptist  chapel  was  built  in  Viewfield  Place  in  1882 
at  a  cost  of  £3000,  and  contains  600  sittings.  Trinity 
Episcopal  Chapel  stands  in  Bath  Street,  was  built  in 
1842,  and  is  a  Gothic  edifice,  in  the  form  of  a  Greek 
cross,  with  a  fine  organ.  St  Margaret's  Roman  Catholic 
church,  in  Holyrood  Place,  rebuilt  in  1871-73  after 
designs  by  Thornton  Shiells,  of  Edinburgh,  consists 
of  an  aisleless  nave  and  a  semicircular  apse,  with  two 
semicircular  chapels  projecting  therefrom.  An  Irvingite 
congregation  dates  from  1835. 

The  Old  Town  House  at  the  corner  of  Kirkgate  and 
Bridge  Street,  with  a  tower  and  spire  132  feet  high, 
becoming  inadequate,  and  being  in  a  somewhat  incon- 
venient situation,  was  demolished,  along  with  adjacent 
tenements,  in  1875,  through  the  operations  of  an  im- 
provement scheme.  This  scheme  resulted  in  the  widen- 
ing of  Bridge  Street  by  4  feet  and  of  the  Kirkgate  by 
22,  and  in  the  erection  of  the  new.  Corporation  Build- 
ings (1876-79),  after  designs  by  Mr  J.  C.  Walker,  of 
Edinburgh,  at  a  cost  of  over  £20,000.  These,  in  a 
combination  of  the  Scottish  Baronial  and  French 
Gothic  styles,  have  one  front  to  Kirkgate  of  144 
feet,  and  another  to  Bridge  Street  of  66  feet,  whilst 
at  the  connecting  corner  of  the  two  is  a  clock  tower, 
rising  to  the  height  of  117  feet,  and  23  feet  square. 
The  principal  entrance  is  round-arched,  having  massive 
buttresses  and  granite  columns  supporting  a  balcony 
and  pjrojecting  windows,  over  which  are  sculptured  the 
Royal  Scottish  arms.  The  Kirkgate  front  has  fanciful 
and  grotesque  ornaments,  while  that  of  Bridge  Street 
has  busts  of  Malcolm  Ceannmor,  St  Margaret,  Robert 
Bruce,  and  Elizabeth  his  queen.  The  council  chamber 
is  39|  by  25^  feet,  with  an  open  timber  roof;  while 
the  burgh  courtroom  measures  50|  feet  by  31J,  and 
has  a  similar  roof  to  that  of  the  council  chamber. 
There  are  a  number  of  portraits  of  local  celebrities  in  the 
Corporation  Buildings,  as  well  as  the  famous  cartoon  of 
Sir  Noel  Paton's  '  Spirit  of  Religion '  (1845),  presented 
by  the  artist  in  1881.  A  stucco  model  of  Mrs  D.  0. 
Hill's  statue  of  Burns,  erected  at  Dumfries  in  April 
1882,  has  also  been  placed  in  the  vestibule.  The 
burgh  prison,  standing  near  the  public  park,  is  a  very 
plain  building,  but  with  good  internal  arrangements  ; 
and  was  erected  in  1844-45  at  a  cost  of  £2070.  The 
County  Buildings,  formerly  known  as  the  Guild  Hall, 
were  erected,  in  1807-11,  by  a  number  of  private  persons 
in  the  district.  The  frontage  to  High  Street  has  24  win- 
dows, and  is  surmounted  by  a  spire  132  feet  high.  In- 
tended originally  as  a  Guild  or  Merchant  House,  it  was 
converted  into  an  hotel  in  1817,  and  in  1849-50  into  a 
court-house  for  the  western  district  of  Fife.  The  burgh 
post  office  is  in  this  building.  St  JIargaret's  Hall,  in  St 
Jlargaret  Street,  was  completed  in  1878  at  a  cost  of 
£9000,  in  Early  English  style,  with  simple  exterior  de- 
corations. The  large  hall  alfords  accommodation  for  1320 
persons,  and  has  a  very  fine  organ,  with  26  stops,  1522 
pipes,  and  hydraulic  blowing  engine ;  there  are  also  a 
lecture  hall,  reading-room,  and  committee  rooms.  Close 
to  this  hall  is  the  new  free  public  library,  erected  in 
1880-81  at  a  cost  of  £5000,  by  Mr  Andrew  Carnegie,  of 
New  York,  who  further  gave  £3000  for  books  Domestic 
Tudor  in  style,  and  three  stories  in  height,  it  comprises 
library,  reading,  recreation,  and  smoking  rooms.     At  a 


DUNFERMLINE 

cost  of  £5000,  the  same  gentleman  founded  the  Carnegie 
Baths  (1877),  in  School  End  Street.  This  building 
is  of  the  height  of  two  stories  in  the  centre  elevation, 
with  a  square  tower  surmounted  by  a  flagstaff;  and 
though  altogether  of  a  somewhat  dwarfed  appearance, 
is  considerably  relieved  with  muUioned  windows,  highly- 
pitched  gables  with  finials,  and  corbelled  turrets.  Two 
swimming  baths  measure  respectively  70  by  35  and 
25  by  17  feet,  each  sloping  from  3  to  6  feet  in  depth  ; 
and  the  larger  of  the  two  has  accommodation  for  500 
spectators  on  occasion  of  an  aquatic  ftte.  The  Music 
Hall,  in  Guildhall  Street,  was  erected  in  1851-52.  The 
building  has  a  clear  rise  of  wall  to  the  height  of  90  feet, 
and  it  contains  no  fewer  than  three  halls,  the  principal 
one  accommodating  1500  persons,  and  having  a  pro- 
scenium and  other  appliances  necessary  for  a  theatre. 

The  Grammar  School  or  High  School  stands  at  the 
head  of  the  town  ;  is  a  recent,  neat,  oblong  edifice, 
erected  on  the  site  of  former  schools  built  about  1560 
and  destroyed  by  fire  in  1624,  re-erected  in  1625  and 
removed  in  1817  for  the  present  building ;  now  com- 
prises two  large  schoolrooms  and  excellent  dwelling- 
house  ;  is  surmounted  by  a  low,  ornamental,  circular 
tower,  meant  for  an  observatory  ;  and  has  a  playground 
in  front.  The  Commercial  Academy  was  erected  by  the 
Guildry  in  1816,  and  was  long  one  of  the  piincipal 
elementary  schools  in  the  town.  The  Rolland  School 
sprang  from  a  donation  of  £1000  by  the  late  Adam 
Rolland  of  Gask,  and  was  originally  under  the  direction 
of  the  Town  Council.  All  these  schools,  together  with 
the  Female  Industrial  School,  the  Free  Abbey  Church 
School,  and  others,  were  acquired  by  the  Burgh  School- 
Board  after  the  passing  of  the  Education  Act  of  1872, 
and  since  then  the  board  has  erected  a  school,  at  a  cost 
of  £4136,  at  the  "W  end  of  the  town  ;  shared  the  cost  of 
another  further  N  with  the  Parish  School-Board,  besides 
purchasing  one  for  £1200,  which  was  in  connection  with 
St  Leonards  Weaving  Factory.  A  central  school  has  also 
been  substituted  for  the  Rolland  and  Commercial  Schools 
at  a  cost  of  £5143,  and  altogether  there  are  six  public 
schools  under  the  board,  whilst  it  also  exercises  super- 
vision over  four  others.  With  total  accommodation  fo: 
3055  children,  these  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of 
2215,  and  grants  amounting  to  £1928,  7s.  6d.  There 
are  also  a  j'oung  men's  literary  institute,  a  school  of 
arts,  an  agricultural  society,  an  orchestral  society,  a 
horticultural  society,  an  ancient  society  of  gardeners, 
a  co-operative  society  (1861-66,  2200  members,  and 
£19,600  capital),  a  building  company,  a  property  invest- 
ment society,  two  masonic  lodges,  a  Bums's  club,  a 
gymnasium,  curling,  bowling,  cricket,  football,  and 
swimming  clubs,  a  cemetery  (1863),  a  public  park  (1863), 
etc. 

The  town  has  a  head  post  office,  ivith  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  departments, 
branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland  and  the  British  Linen 
Co.,  Commercial,  National,  and  Royal  Banks,  a  national 
security  savings'  bank,  offices  or  agencies  of  21  insm-ance 
companies,  2  stations,  and  6  hotels.  Two  weekly  news- 
papers—  the  Independent  Liberal  Dunfermline  Press 
(1859)  and  the  Liberal  Dunfermline  Journal  (1872) — 
are  published  on  Saturday.  A  weekly  corn  market  is 
held  on  Tuesday,  and  a  monthly  horse  and  cattle  market 
is  held  on  the  third  Tuesday  of  every  month. 

The  burgh,  at  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century,  was 
entirely  rural,  and  had  no  more  than  1600  inhabitants. 
Do^-n  to  the  beginning  of  the  ISth  centurj',  it  con- 
tinued to  be  almost  without  trade,  but  now  it  is  the 
chief  seat  of  the  manufacture  of  table-linen  in  Great 
Britain,  perhaps  in  the  world.  This  manufacture 
began  slowly,  but  advanced  steadily  till  it  became  so 
important  as  to  bring  much  wealth  to  the  town  and  give 
employment  to  a  large  population.  The  weaving  of 
huckaback  and  diapers  led  the  way  to  the  weaving  of 
damask,  which  was  introduced  in  1718  ;  a  great  im- 
provement on  the  damask  loom  was  cifectedin  1779;  a 
further  improvement,  in  the  shape  of  what  was  called 
the  comb  draw-loom,  in  1803;  and  the  Jacquard 
machine  was  introduced  in  1825.     A  drawing  academy, 

431 


DUNFERMLINE 

for  promoting  taste  aiul  inventiveness  in  designs,  was 
established  in  1826.  Orders  for  sets  of  table-linen,  from 
the  nobility  and  gentry,  and  eventually  from  King 
William  IV.  and  Queen  Victoria,  increasingly  re- 
warded and  stimulated  progi-ess;  orders  from  America 
and  from  other  countries  followed ;  and  certain  special 
splendid  fabrics,  particularly  one  designated  the 
'Crimean  Hero  Tablecloth'  (1857),  as  well  as  the 
general  excellence  of  the  ordinary  damasks,  gave  the 
manufacture  an  established  reputation.  There  are  alto- 
gether 11  factories,  containing  4000  power  looms,  and 
giving  employment  to  nearly  6000  persons,  of  whom  a 
great  proportion  are  females.  Among  the  largest  of  these 
establishments  are  St  Leonards  (1851),  beautifully  situ- 
ated at  the  S  side  of  the  town,  employing  upwards  of 
1500  work-people  ;  Bothwell  (1865),  employing  900 ;  and 
Victoria  (1876),  employing  750.  Previous  to  the  intro- 
duction of  steam,  the  work  was  produced  by  hand- 
looms,  of  which  there  were  in  1880  only  about  120 
remaining,  receiving  but  scanty  employment,  and  this 
method  is  rapidly  dying  out.  The  value  of  goods 
annually  produced  by  the  power-loom  factories  may  be 
reckoned  now  to  average  £1,000,000,  much  of  which 
finds  its  way  to  the  American  markets — in  1880,  the 
United  States  receiving  from  Dunfermline  exports, 
chiefly  linen,  to  the  value  of  £443,879.  The  weaving 
trade,  besides  emjiloying  so  many  persons  in  the  town 
itself  and  in  its  suburbs,  supports  looms  in  the  parishes 
of  Torryburn,  Carnock,  Culross,  and  Inverkeithing,  and 
even  in  Kinross,  Leslie,  Strathmiglo,  and  Auchter- 
muchty.  The  town  and  its  neighbourhood  has  also  5 
bleachfields,  employing  500  persons,  a  tannery,  rope- 
works,  dyeworks,  3  iron  foundries,  3  engineering  esta- 
blishments, fireclay  and  terra-cotta  works,  tobacco  manu- 
factories, breweries,  and  flour-mills.  There  are,  too, 
upwards  of  20  collieries  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town. 

A  royal  burgh  probably  since  the  beginning  of  the 
12th  century,  Dunfermline  received  a  charter  of  confir- 
mation in  1538  from  James  VL,  and  is  governed  by  a 
provost,  4  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and  15 
coimcillors,  who  act  as  police  commissioners  under  the 
General  Police  and  Improvement  Act  of  Scotland.  It 
is  the  residence  of  the 
sheriff-substitute  for  the 
western  district  of  Fife  ; 
and  unites  with  Stirling, 
Inverkeithing,  Culross, 
and  South  Queensferry 
in  sending  a  member  to 
parliament.  Burgh  courts 
are  lield  regularly,  with 
the  town-clerk  as  asses- 
sor ;  sheriff  ordinary 
courts  are  held  every 
Tuesday  during  session  ; 
sherifl'  small-debt  courts 
on  the  first  and  the  third 
Tuesday  of  every  month  during  session ;  justice  of  peace 
courts,  both  civil  and  criminal,  are  held  when  necessary ; 
and  com-ts  of  quarter  sessions  are  held  on  the  third  Tues- 
day of  April  and  the  last  Tuesday  of  October.  The  police 
force,  in  1881,  comprised  11  men  ;  and  the  salary  of  the 
superintendent  was  £150.  The  number  of  persons  con- 
victed in  1874  was  546  ;  in  1875,  425  ;  in  1880,  473.  The 
water  supply,  from  1847  to  1865,  was  furnished  by  a 
joint  stock  company  from  37  acres  of  reservoirs  at  Craig- 
luscar,  3  miles  to  the  NAV  ;  but,  the  supply  not  proving 
satisfactory,  the  Coriioration  bought  up  the  works  and 
constructed,  in  1868,  an  additional  reservoir  of  12  acres 
Jit  the  same  place.  In  1S76  they  obtained  a  new  Water 
Bill,  by  which  they  were  enabled  to  j)rocure  in  1878  a 
lilentiful  supply  from  Glensherrup  Burn,  an  afliuent 
of  Devon — the  cost  of  the  parliamentary  bill  and  of 
the  works  pertaining  to  this  latter  supply  being  esti- 
mated at  £72,000.  Drainage  works  (1876-77),  to  convey 
the  town  sewage  to  the  sea  at  Charlestown,  cost  about 
£10,000  ;  and  the  gas-works  were  constructed  in  1829  by 
a  company,  with  a  capital  of  £22,575.  The  Corporation 
revenue  was  £870  in  1834,  and  £8100  in  1882,  when  the 
432 


Seal  of  Dunfermline. 


DUNFERMLINE 

municipal  constituency  numbered  2460  ;  the  parliamen- 
tary, 2330.  Valuation  (1874)  £43,281,  (1882)  £57,790. 
Pop.  (1801)  5484,  (1821)  8041,  (1841)  13,323,  (1861) 
13,504,  (1871)  14,958,  (1881)  17,085,  of  whom  7500 
were  males,  and  9585  females.  Houses  (1881)  3159 
inhabited.  111  vacant,  19  building. 

Dunfermline,  'the  town  on  the  crooked  Linn,'  as 
already  stated,  took  its  origin  from  Malcolm  Ceannraor's 
Tower  ;  and,  down  to  the  era  of  the  Reformation,  owed 
its  maintenance  chiefly  to  the  Royal  Palace  and  the 
Abbey.  It  is  mentioned,  in  connection  with  ancient 
story,  in  the  ballad  of  Sir  Patrick  Spens.  Edward  I.  of 
England,  while  residing  in  it,  received  the  submission 
of  man}'  Scottish  barons  who  had  held  out  against  him 
during  his  progress  through  Scotland.  On  25  May 
1624,  220  tenements,  or  nine-tenths  of  the  entire  town, 
were  totally  destroyed  by  fire  ;  and  by  the  battle  of 
PiTREAViE  or  Inverkeithing  (Sunday,  20  July  1651), 
between  the  armies  of  Cromwell  and  Charles  II.,  Dun- 
fermline lost  some  hundreds  of  its  townsmen.  On  24 
Oct.  1715,  it  was  the  scene  of  the  surprisal  of  a  Jacobite 
detachment  of  fourscore  horse  and  three  Highland  foot. 
Dunfermline  gave  the  title  of  Earl,  from  1605  till  1694, 
to  the  family  of  Seton  ;  and  the  title  of  baron,  in  1839, 
to  the  third  son  of  Sir  Ralph  Abercromby.  Among  dis- 
tinguished natives  or  residents  of  the  town  or  the  parish, 
have  been  members  of  the  Bruce,  the  Seton,  the  Halket, 
and  the  WarJlaw  families  ;  John  or  Arnold  Blair  (flo. 
1300),  a  monk  of  the  Abbey,  and  chaplain  to  Sir  William 
Wallace  ;  John  Durie,  also  a  monk  of  the  Abbey,  who 
embraced  the  Protestant  faith  and  became  an  eminent 
preacher  of  it  in  Montrose,  Leith,  and  Edinburgh  ; 
George  Durie,  Abbot  of  Dunfermline,  and  for  some  time 
an  extraordinary  Lord  of  Session  and  Keeper  of  the 
Privy  Seal  ;  Robert  Pitcairn,  Abbot  of  Dunfermline  and 
Secretary  of  State  during  the  regencies  of  Lennox,  Mar, 
and  Morton,  and  afterwards  under  James  VI.  ;  three 
other  Abbots  of  Dunfermline,  who  held  the  oflice  of 
Lord  High  Chancellor  of  Scotland ;  David  Ferguson 
(1534-98),  the  first  Protestant  minister  of  Dunfermline, 
and  a  man  of  great  celebrity  in  his  day  ;  John  David- 
son (1544-1604),  a  playwright  and  Reformer,  who  was 
minister  at  successively  Liberton  and  Prestonpans ; 
Robert  Henrysoun,  a  poet  and  'guid  Scholemaister  of 
Dunfermline'  (1450-99) ;  Adam  Blackwood (1539-1623), 
a  Catholic  controversialist,  and  a  senator  in  the  parlia- 
ment of  Poitiers  ;  Henry  Blackwood  (1526-1613),  an 
eminent  physician ;  Admiral  Sir  Andrew  Mitchell 
(1757-1806)  of  the  Hill,  who  figured  conspicuously  in 
the  naval  service  in  the  time  of  Lord  Howe  and  Lord 
Nelson  ;  Henry  Fergus  (1764-1837),  minister  in  Dun- 
fermline Relief  Church,  who  did  some  service  in  matters 
of  physical  science  ;  Robert  Gilfillan  (1798-1850),  minor 
poet;  the  Rev.  Peter  Chalmers,  D.D.  (1790-1870),  his- 
torian of  Dunfermline,  and  for  52  years  its  minister  ; 
Ebenezer  Henderson,  D.D.  (1784-1858),  theological  pro- 
fessor in  Highbury  College,  London ;  his  nephew, 
Ebenezer  Henderson,  LL.D.  (1809-79),  the  historian  of 
Dunfermline;  Sir  Noel  Paton,  R.S.A.  (b.  1821);  his 
brother.  Waller  Paton,  R.S.A.  ;  and  his  sister,  the 
sculptor,  Mrs  D.  0.  Hill. 

The  parish  of  Dunfermline  contains  also  the  villages 
of  Charlestown,  Halbeath,  North  Queensferry,  Cross- 
ford,  Masterton,  Patiemuir,  Townhill,  Kingseat,  and 
Wellwood,  chief  part  of  Limekilns,  and  part  of  Cross- 
gates  ;  and  comprises  a  large  main  body  and  a  small 
detached  district.  The  main  body  is  bounded  N  by 
Cleish  in  Kinross-shire,  NE  by  Beath,  E  by  Dalgety 
and  Inverkeithing,  S  by  Inverkeithing  and  the  Firth  of 
Forth,  W  by  Torryburn,  Carnock,  and  Saline.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  8  miles  ;  its  breadth, 
from  E  to  W,  varies  between  3§  and  5^  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  21,066.j  acres,  of  which  229  are  foreshore  and 
270i  water.  The  detached  district,  lying  1|  mile  S  of 
the  nearest  part  of  the  main  body,  and  containing  North 
Queensferry,  is  a  modern  annexation  from  Inver- 
keithing, and  comprises  only  197i  acres.  The  coast, 
exclusive  of  this  detached  district,  is  IJ  mile  long, 
chiefly    of    a    rocky    character ;    and,    in   the   portion 


DUNFERMLINE 

immediately  in  front  of  Broomhall  House,  rises  steeply, 
and  is  covered  with  tine  wood.  The  detached  district 
is  a  peninsula  between  St  Margaret's  Hope  and  Inver- 
keithing  Bay,  projecting  to  within  3  furlongs  of  Inch- 
garvie  island,  and  rises  from  its  point  northward  to 
a  height  of  200  feet.  The  southern  division  of  the 
main  body,  with  a  general  ascent  from  S  to  N,  exhibits, 
though  nowhere  exceeding  253  feet  above  sea-level, 
in  most  parts,  diversities  of  undulation  and  acclivity, 
and  displaj-s  over  most  of  its  surface  rich  wealth 
of  both  natural  feature  and  artificial  culture.  The 
northern  division  is  much  more  diversified  in  general 
contour,  attaining  449  feet  at  Baldridge,  529  at  Colton, 
705  at  the  Hill  of  Be.vth,  744  at  Craigluscar,  746  at  Din 
Moss,  1189  at  Knock  Hill,  883  at  Muirhead,  921  at 
Craigencat,  and  1014  at  Outh  Muir — heights  that  have 
generally  a  bleak  and  uaked  aspect.  The  islets  Long- 
Craig,  Du-Craig,  and  Bimar  lie  within  the  seaward 
limits,  but  are  all  small  and  rocky.  The  only  streams 
are  brooks,  the  chief  of  these  being  Lyne  Burn,  Baldridge 
Burn,  and  that  which  runs  through  Pittencrieff  Glen. 
Town  Loch  (3x1  furl.),  Craigluscar  Reservoir  (If  x  1 
furl.),  and  Lesser  Black  Loch  (^  x  J  furl. ),  lie  within  the 
northern  division  ;  Loch  Glow  (6  x  3^  furl. )  and  the 
Greater  Black  Loch  (2  x  §  furl.),  on  the  Kinross-shire 
border  ;  whilst  on  the  boundary  -with  Beath  is  shallow 
Loch  Fitty  (1  x  ^  mile).  A  small  mineral  spring  oc- 
curs in  the  vicinity  of  Charlestown.  The  rocks  of 
the  hills  are  chiefly  eruptive,  and  throughout  great  part 
of  the  lower  grounds  belong  to  the  Carboniferous 
system.  Trap,  sandstone,  and  limestone  are  exten- 
sively worked  ;  ironstone,  chiefly  in  balls  and  in  thin 
bands,  was  foi'merly  worked  to  the  extent  of  about  4500 
tons  annually ;  copper  pyrites,  in  small  quantities, 
occur  in  the  ironstone  ;  and  coal  was  mined  here  prior  to 
1291,  earlier,  that  is,  than  in  any  other  place  in  Britain, 
unless  it  be  Tranent.  It  continues  to  be  turned 
out  in  vast  quantities,  both  for  home  use  and  for  expor- 
tation. The  soil,  in  most  parts  of  the  southern  division, 
is  a  rich  brown  loam,  in  other  parts  of  a  light  nature 
incumbent  on  strong  clay ;  in  some  portions  of  the 
northern  division  is  of  fair  quality,  but  in  others  is  poor 
and  shallow.  Rather  less  than  two-thirds  of  the  entire 
area  are  under  cultivation  ;  about  1100  acres  are  under 
wood  ;  and  the  rest  of  the  land  is  either  pastoral  or 
waste.  Broomhall,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin,  is  a 
prominent  feature,  and  has  been  separately  noticed. 
Pitreavie,  Pittencrieff",  Pitfirrane,  Garvoch,  Craigluscar, 
Halbeath,  Gask,  Blackburn,  Middlebank,  Pitliver,  South- 
fod,  Keirsbeath,  Sunnybank,  Netherbeath,  Northfod, 
and  Balmule  are  the  principal  estates ;  and  most  of 
them,  as  well  as  some  others,  are  noticed  either  separ- 
ately or  in  other  articles.  This  parish  is  the  seat  of  a 
presbytery  in  the  synod  of  Fife,  and  is  divided  ecclesi- 
astically into  Dunfermline  proper,  Dunfermline-North, 
and  Dunfermline -St  Andrew.  The  population,  in  1881, 
of  Dunfermline  proper,  was  17,817  ;  of  Dunfermline- 
Korth,  4028  ;  of  Dunfermline-St  Andrew,  4503.  The 
charge  of  Dunfermline  proper  is  collegiate.  At  Town- 
hill  is  an  Established  chapel  of  ease  (1878)  ;  and  there 
are  also  U.  P.  churches  of  Crossgates  (1802)  and  Lime- 
kilns (1825).  Nine  public  schools,  under  the  landward 
board,  with  total  accommodation  for  2318  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  1482,  and  grants 
amounting  to  £1332  ;  and  a  neat  oblong  poorhouse,  on 
the  Town  Green  to  the  ENE  of  the  burgh,  was  erected 
in  1843  at  a  cost  of  £2384,  and  contains  accommoda- 
tion for  187  pauper  inmates.  Landward  valuation  (1866) 
£40,715,  12s.  lOd.,  (1882)  £49,854,  Is.  5d.  Pop.  of 
entire  parish  (1801)  9980,  (1831)  17,068,  (1861)  21,187, 
(1871)  23,313,  (1881)  26,3i8.—Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  40,  32, 
1867-57. 

The  presbytery  of  Dunfermline  comprises  the  old 
parishes  of  Aberdour,  Beath,  Carnock,  Culross,  Dal- 
gety,  Dunfermline,  Inverkeithing,  Saline,  and  Torry- 
burn,  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Dunfermline-St 
Andrew,  Dunfermline-North,  and  Mossgreen,  and  the 
chapelry  of  Townhill.  Pop.  (1871)  38,356,  (1881) 
41,510,  of  whom  5882  were  communicants  of  the  Church 
28 


DUNGLASS 

of  Scotland  in  1878. — The  Free  Church  has  also  a  pres- 
bytery of  Dunfermline,  with  3  churches  in  Dunfermline, 
and  8  in  respectively  Aberdour,  Carnock,  Culross,  Las- 
sodie,  North  Queensferry,  Saline,  Torryburn,  and  Tulli^ 
allan,  which  11  churches  had  2106  communicants  in 
1881.— The  U.P.  Synod  likewise  has  a  presbytery  of 
Dunfermline,  with  4  churches  in  Dunfermline,  and  7 
in  respectively  Alloa,  Cairneyhill,  Crossgates,  Inver- 
keithing, Kincardine,  Limekilns,  and  Lochgelly,  which 
11  churches  had  4363  members  in  1880. 

See  John  Fernie's  History  of  the  Town  and  Parish  of 
Dunfermline  (Dunf.  1815) ;  Andrew  Mercer's  History  of 
Dunfermline  (Dunf.  1828)  ;  Cosmo  Innes'  Rcgistrum  de 
Dunfermelyn  (Bannatyne  Club,  1842) ;  the  Rev.  Peter 
Chalmers'  Historical  and  Statistical  Account  of  Dunferm- 
line (2  vols.,  Edinb. ,  1844-59) ;  Dr  Ebenezer  Henderson's 
Royal  Tombs  at  Dunfermline  (Dunf.  1856) ;  his  Annals 
of  Dunfermline  aiul  Vicinity  from  1069  to  1878  (Glasg. 
1879)  ;  and  J.  C.  R.  Buckner's  new  edition  of  Clark's 
Guide  to  DunfcrniHae  and  its  Antiquities  (Dunf  1880). 

Dunfermline  and  Queensferry  Railway.  See  North 
British  Railway. 

Dunfermline  and  Stirling  Railway.  See  North 
British  Railway. 

DunfiUan,  a  verdant  conical  hill  in  Comrie  parish, 
Perthshire,  7  furlongs  E  by  S  of  the  foot  of  Loch  Earn. 
It  rises  to  a  height  of  600  feet,  and  terminates  in  a 
rock  popularly  called  St  Fillan's  Chair,  whence  the 
saint  whose  name  it  bears  is  alleged  to  have  bestowed 
his  benediction  on  the  suiTounding  country. 

Dun  Fionn,  a  vitrified  fort  in  Kiltarlity  parish, 
Inverness-shire,  on  a  high  conical  mound  above  a  cliff", 
on  the  S  side  of  the  Dhruim,  45  miles  WSW  of  Beauly. 
It  is  on  the  Lovat  estate ;  and,  a  number  of  years  ago, 
was  laid  open,  by  order  of  the  late  Lord  Lovat,  for  the 
inspection  of  the  curious. 

Dungavel,  a  bold,  green,  double-topped  hill  (1675 
feet)  in  the  central  part  of  Wiston  and  Roberton  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  overhanging  the  river  Clyde,  at  the  mouth 
of  Roberton  Burn,  24  miles  S  by  W  of  Tinto. 

Dungavel,  a  hill  (1502  feet)  in  Avondale  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  6  miles  SSW  of  Strathaven. 

Dungeon,  a  lake  in  the  N  of  Kells  parish,  Kirkcud- 
brightshire, 8  miles  NW  by  W  of  New  Galloway. 
Lying  1025  feet  above  sea-level,  it  is  f  mile  long,  and 
from  I  furlong  to  |  mile  wide ;  it  contains  both  trout 
and  char  ;  and  it  sends  oif  a  rivulet  to  Pulharrow  Burn, 
an  affluent  of  the  Ken. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  8,  1863. 

Dungeon,  Dry,  Round,  and  Long  Lochs  of  the,  three 
neighbouring  lakes  of  AV  Kirkcudbrightshire,  the  first 
lying  on  the  mutual  border  of  Carsphairn  and  Minni- 
gaff"  parishes,  and  the  two  last  in  the  N  of  Minnigaff. 
Their  measurements  and  altitude  above  sea-level  are — 
Dry  Loch  (1x1  furl.  ;  1075  feet).  Round  Loch  (2x1 
furl.  ;  910  feet),  and  Long  Loch  (2^  x  1  furl.  ;  900  feet). 
Dry  Loch,  at  the  'divide'  between  the  Firth  of  Clyde 
and  the  Solway  Firth,  sends  off"  its  effluence  partly 
northward  by  Gala  Lane  to  Loch  Doon,  partly  south- 
ward by  a  burn  that  traverses  the  other  two  to  Coorau 
Lane,  and  so  to  the  Dee  ;  and  all  three  abound  in  small 
tTont—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  8,  1863. 

Dunglass,  a  small  rocky  promontory  in  Old  Kilpatrick 
parish,  Dumbartonshire,  3  furlongs  W  by  S  of  Bowling 
Bay,  and  2.^  miles  ESE  of  Dumbarton.  Almost  sur- 
rounded by  the  Clyde,  it  may  have  been  possibly  a 
Roman  outpost,  but  has  been  \\Tongly  regarded  by  some 
antiquaries  as  the  western  termination  of  Antoninus* 
"Wall ;  was  long  a  stronghold  of  the  chiefs  of  the  Clan 
Colquhoun,  and  retains  round  all  its  crest  loopholed, 
ivy-clad  ruins  of  their  ancient  castle  ;  and  is  crowned, 
on  its  highest  point,  by  an  obelisk,  erected  in  1839  to 
the  memory  of  Henry  Bell,  the  originator  of  steam 
navigation. 

Dunglass,  a  mansion  in  Oldhamstocks  parish,  E 
Haddiugtonshire,  standing  in  the  midst  of  a  fine  park, 
it  mile  inland,  and  1^  mile  NW  of  Cockburnspath. 
An  elegant  edifice,  surmounted  by  a  tower,  it  occu- 
jiies  the  site  of  a  strong  castle  of  the  Lords  Home, 
which,   passing,    on   their   forfeiture   in   1516,   to  the 

433 


DUNGYLE 

Douglases,  was  besieged  and  destroyed  by  the 
English  under  the  Earl  of  Northumberland  in  the 
winter  of  1532,  and  again  under  the  Protector  Somerset 
in  1547.  It  was  rebuilt  in  greater  extent  and  grandeur 
than  before,  and  gave  accommodation  in  1603  to  James 
YI.  and  all  his  retinue  when  on  his  journey  to  London  ; 
but,  being  held  in  1G40  by  a  party  of  Covenanters 
under  the  Earl  of  Haddington,  whom  Leslie  had  left 
behind  to  watch  the  garrison  of  Berwick,  it  was  blown 
up  with  gunpowder  on  30  August.  An  English  page, 
according  to  Scotstarvet,  vexed  by  a  taunt  against  his 
countrymen,  thrust  a  red-hot  iron  into  a  powder  barrel, 
and  himself  was  killed,  with  the  Earl  and  many  others. 
Dunglass  is  the  seat  now  of  Sir  Basil  Francis  Hall, 
seventh  Bart,  since  1687  (b.  1828;  sue.  1876),  who  holds 
887  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £2158  per  annum. 
Dunglass  was  the  birthplace  of  his  grandfather.  Sir 
James  Hall  (1761-1832),  the  distinguished  geologist  and 
chemist.  A  wooded,  deep  ravine  called  Dunglass  Dean, 
and  traversed  by  Berwick  or  Dunglass  Burn,  extends 
4^  miles  north-north-eastward  to  the  sea,  along  the 
mutual  border  of  Haddington  and  Berwick  shires.  It 
is  spanned  by  two  bridges  not  far  from  each  other  on 
old  and  new  lines  of  road,  and  by  an  intermediate  mag- 
nificent railway  viaduct,  whose  middle  arch  is  135  feet 
in  span,  ami  rises  125  feet  from  the  bed  of  the  stream  to 
the  top  of  the  parapet.  With  five  other  arches  toward 
the  ravine's  crests,  this  viaduct  is,  in  itself,  an  object 
of  gi'eat  architectural  beauty ;  and  combines  with  the 
adjacent  bridges  and  mth  the  ravine's  features  of  rock 
and  wood  and  water  to  form  an  exquisitely  striking 
scene.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863. 

Dungyle,  a  green  hill  (600  feet)  in  Kelton  parish, 
Kirkcudbrightshire,  near  the  N  base  of  the  Screel,  si 
miles  S  by  E  of  Castle-Douglas.  An  ancient  Caledonian 
circular  hill -fort  on  it  has  three  ramparts  of  stones 
mixed  with  earth,  and  measures  117  paces  in  diameter. 

Dungyle,  Buteshire.     See  Dunagoil. 

Dimhead,  an  ancient  triangular  camp  or  fort  in  Car- 
myllie  parish,  Forfarshire,  on  a  peninsular  eminence  at 
the  junction  of  the  Black  Den  and  the  Den  of  Guynd 
ravines.  Probably  formed  by  the  Caledonians,  and  re- 
modelled by  the  Danes,  it  was  defended  on  two  sides 
by  precipices,  and  on  the  third  by  a  rough  rampart  and 
a  ditch  ;  and  it  is  now  represented  by  mere  vestiges. 

Dun-I,  an  abrupt  hill,  327  feet  high,  in  lona  island, 
Argyllshire,  \  mile  NNW  of  the  Abbey. 

Dunian,  a  lumpi.sh,  round-backed,  ridgy  hill  in 
Bedrule  and  Jedburgh  j^arishes,  Roxburghshire.  It 
rises  from  a  base  of  between  2  and  3  miles  in  breadth  ; 
extends  about  3  miles  between  the  Teviot  and  the  Jed 
do\vn  to  the  vicinity  of  their  point  of  confluence  ;  bears 
most  of  the  town  of  Jedburgh  on  its  north-eastern  skirt ; 
attains,  on  a  cap  or  nodule  within  Bedrule  parish,  an 
altitude  of  1095  feet  above  sea-level ;  is  traversed  over 
its  back,  not  far  from  the  crowning  cap,  by  the  road 
from  Jedburgh  to  Hawick  ;  and  commands,  from  much 
of  that  road,  and  especially  from  its  sumnut,  extensive 
and  splendid  views.  Its  name  signifies  the  '  hill  of  St 
John.' 

Dunimarle,  an  estate  in  Culross  parish,  Perthshire, 
a  little  to  the  W  of  Culross  town.  An  ancient  castle 
here  was  one  of  the  traditional  scenes  of  the  murder  of 
Lady  Macduff  and  her  children  ;  the  present  mansion  is 
almost  entirely  modern,  built  by  the  late  Mrs  Sharpe 
Erskine,  and  containing  a  good  library,  with  paintings 
and  other  works  of  art. 

Dunino  or  Denino,  a  hamlet  and  a  parish  in  the  E  of 
Fife.  The  hamlet  lies  between  Cameron  and  Chesters 
Burns,  4^  miles  SSE  of  St  Andrews,  under  which  it  has 
a  post  ollice. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  St  Andrews,  E 
by  St  Leonards,  SE  by  Crail,  S  and  SW  by  Carnbee, 
and  W  by  Cameron.  Irregular  in  outline,  it  has  an 
utmost  length  from  N  to  S  of  3  miles,  an  utmost  width 
from  E  to  \V  of  2  miles,  and  an  area  of  2737^  acres,  of 
which  22.^  lie  tletached.  The  surface  is  drained  by 
Cameron,  Wakefield,  and  Chesters  Burns,  whose  waters 
unite  in  the  NE  corner  of  the  parish,  to  flow  as  Kenlv 
434 


DUNIPACE 

Burn  toward  the  sea  ;  and  takes  a  general  south-west- 
ward rise,  from  less  than  200  to  over  500  feet  above  sea- 
level.  The  rocks  belong  chiefly  to  the  Carboniferous 
formation,  and  coal  was  at  one  time  extensively  mined. 
Ironstone  is  not  rare,  having  once  been  collected  from 
the  side  of  one  of  the  brooks  to  the  amount  of  40  tons  ; 
and  sandstone  of  excellent  quality  is  abundant,  but  has 
not  been  much  quarried.  The  soil  in  some  parts  is 
clayey,  in  others  sandy.  About  100  acres  are  under 
wood.  Pittairthie  Castle,  a  roofless  ruin  in  the  SW  of  the 
parish,  is  partly  very  ancient,  partly  a  structure  of  1653  ; 
and  in  its  oldest  portion  consists  of  a  large  square  tower, 
with  vaults  beneath.  Stravithie  Castle,  another  baronial 
fortalice,  a  little  to  the  NW  of  the  hamlet,  stood  entire 
about  the  year  1710,  but  now  has  left  no  traces.  Drafl'an 
Castle,  too,  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  the  Danes, 
has  completely  disappeared.  An  ancient  nunnery  stood 
on  the  highest  ground  in  the  parish,  whence  its  ruins 
were  removed  in  1815.  Three  stones,  by  Chesters 
Burn,  100  yards  W  of  the  church,  are  supposed  to  have 
been  part  of  an  ancient  Caledonian  stone  circle.  The 
Rev.  Charles  Rogers,  LL.D.,  antiquary,  was  born  at 
the  manse  in  1825 ;  and  Wm.  Tenuant,  author  of 
Anster  Fair,  was  parish  schoolmaster  (1813-16). 
Dunino  is  in  the  presbytery  of  St  Andrews  and  synod 
of  Fife  ;  the  living  is  worth  £300.  The  parish  church, 
a  Gothic  building  of  1826,  contains  230  sittings  ;  and 
a  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  92  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  79,  and  a  grant  of 
£53,  lis.  Valuation  (1882)  £4213,  18s.  7d.  Pop. 
(1801)  326,  (1831)  383,  (1861)  370,  (1871)  325,  (1881) 
ilb.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  41,  1857. 

Dunipace,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  E  Stirlingshire. 
The  village,  called  the  Milton  of  Dunipace,  stands  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river  Carron,  opposite  the  town  of 
Denny,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  bridge,  and 
with  which  it  has  formed  a  police  burgh  since  1876  ; 
and  is  itself  a  considerable  place,  sharing  in  Denny's 
industries.     Pop.  (1881)  1258. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  of  Torwood, 
took  its  name  from  two  famous  mounds,  to  be  after- 
wards noticed ;  and,  anciently  a  chapelry  of  Cam- 
buskenneth,  acquired  parochial  status  at  the  Refor- 
mation. In  1624  it  was  united  on  equal  terms  to  Lar- 
bert,  and  came  in  course  of  time  to  be  considered  as 
subordinate  to,  or  as  absorbed  into,  it ;  but  since 
the  passing  of  the  Poor-law  Act  (1834)  has  again  been 
treated,  in  various  respects  both  civil  and  ecclesiastical, 
as  a  distinct  or  separate  parish.  It  is  bounded  W  and 
N  by  St  Ninians,  E  by  Larbert,  SE  by  Falkirk,  and  S 
and  SW  by  Denny.  Its  utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is 
5^  miles ;  its  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  varies  between  f 
mile  and  3|^  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  5629  acres,  of  which 
43  are  water.  The  Carkon  winds  5^  miles  east-south- 
eastward on  or  close  to  the  Denny  border,  then  1  mile 
eastward  through  the  south-eastern  interior,  here  being 
joined  by  Bonny  Water,  which  for  the  last  H  mile  of 
its  crooked  east-north-easterly  course  roughly  traces 
most  of  the  boundary  with  Falkirk.  The  eastern  dis- 
trict is  part  of  the  Carse  of  Stirling,  and  sinks  to  less 
than  100  feet  above  sea-level ;  thence  the  surface  rises 
to  206  feet  near  Househill,  250  near  Doghillock,  354  in 
the  Tor  Wood,  496  near  RuUie,  and  846  near  Buckie- 
side,  at  the  north-western  extremity  of  the  parish. 
Trap  rock  prevails  over  about  one-third  of  the  area,  and 
sandstone  over  the  other  two-thirds  ;  the  latter  is  partly 
capital  building  material,  partly  of  a  character  well 
suited  for  flag  or  pavement.  The  soil  ranges  from  moorish 
earth  to  argillaceous  alluvium,  but  for  the  most  part  is 
extremely  fertile.  Of  the  entire  area,  3800  acres  are  in 
tillage,  986  jjasture,  300  waste,  and  500  under  wood. 
Mining  has  fallen  off  of  recent  years,  but  Dunipace  finds 
an  outlet  for  its  labour  in  the  neiglibouring  industries 
of  Denny  parish.  Torwood  Castle  is  a  venerable  ruin, 
and,  with  the  remnant  of  Torwood  Forest,  is  sejiarately 
noticed.  Herbertshire  Castle  is  a  very  ancient  mansion, 
standing  amid  finely-wooded  grounds  ;  originally  a  royal 
hunting-seat,  it  passed  in  the  15th  century  to  the  Earls 
of  Orkney,  in  the  16th  to  the  Earls  of  Linlithgow : 


DUNIPHAIL 

ind,  coming  aftenvards  to  the  Stirlings  and  the  More- 
heads,  was  sold  in  1835  to  Forbes  of  Callendar.  Car- 
brook  House,  too,  occupies  a  romantic  site,  amid  well- 
wooded  grounds,  within  half  a  mile  of  Torwood  Castle  ; 
whilst  Dunijjace  House  and  Quarter  House  are  elegant 
modern  mansions.  Dunipace  mounds,  or  the  '  Hills  of 
Dunipace,'  whence  the  parish  derived  its  name,  are 
situated  on  a  small  plain  adjacent  to  the  Carrou,  2  miles 
ESE  of  Milton  village  ;  and,  covering  2  Scotch  acres, 
rise  to  a  height  of  60  feet.  According  to  George 
Buchanan,  they  were  raised  to  commemorate  a  treaty 
of  peace  between  some  Caledonian  king  and  the  Roman 
Emperor  Severus  (hence  their  name  Dual  Pads,  '  hills 
of  the  peace'!);  according  to  Dr  Hill  Burton,  they 
are  '  evidently  residuary  masses  left  by  retreated  waters, 
in  which  they  have  made  shallows  or  islands.  This 
will  account  for  their  form  without  the  necessity  of 
supposing  that  they  were  ever  rounded  by  art.  If 
analogy  did  not  support  this  view,  it  would  be  strength- 
ened by  the  incident  of  a  third  hill  in  the  same  place 
having  been  levelled  about  1835,  and  showing  complete 
internal  evidence  of  natural  formation.'  Some  finely- 
preserved  Roman  utensils,  one  of  them  of  a  unique 
kind,  have  been  discovered  near  Dunipace  village ; 
and,  in  result  of  a  search  instigated  by  the  discovery 
of  these  relics,  distinct  vestiges  of  a  previously  un- 
noticed Roman  camp  were  found  in  a  neighbouring 
wood.  Forbes  of  Callendar  and  Harvie-Brown  of 
Quarter  are  the  chief  proprietors,  2  others  holding 
ea<;h  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  12  of  be- 
tween £100  and  £500,  9  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  13 
of  from  £20  to  £50.  In  the  presbytery  of  Stirling 
and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling,  this  piarish  forms  a 
joint  charge  with  Larbert,  the  stipend  and  allowance 
for  communion  elements  amounting  to  £404.  The 
plain  old  parish  church,  whose  graveyard  is  still  in 
use,  stood  within  a  few  yards  of  the  Hills  of  Dunipace  ; 
the  present  one,  on  a  knoll  1^  mile  to  the  WN"\V,  is  a 
Gothic  edifice,  built  in  1834  at  a  cost  of  £2500,  and 
containing  604  sittings.  There  is  also  a  Free  church ; 
and  two  public  schools,  Dunipace  and  Torwood,  with 
respective  accommodation  for  300  and  60  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  155  and  31,  and  grants 
of £130,  18s.  6d.  and£23,  4s.  Valuation  (1882) £10,761, 
18s.  lOd.,  including  £1032  for  railwav.  Pop.  (1801) 
948,  (1841)  1578,  (1861)  1731,  (1871)  1733,  (1881)  1875. 
—Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  31,  1867. 

Duniphail  or  Dunphail,  an  estate  in  Edinkillie  parish, 
Elginshire,  with  a  station  of  its  own  name  on  the  High- 
land railway,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Divie,  1^  mile 
SSE  of  its  influx  to  the  Fiudliorn  river,  and  8^  miles 
S  bv  W  of  Forres.  The  estate,  extending  southward 
from  the  station  to  nearly  the  source  of  the  Divie,  be- 
longed anciently  to  the  Comyns,  and,  after  passing  suc- 
cessively to  the  families  of  Dunbar  acd  Cumming-Bruce, 
came  by  marriage  in  1864  to  Thomas-John  Hovell- 
Thurlow,  who,  born  in  1838,  in  1874  succeeded  his 
brother  as  fifth  Baron  Thurlow  (ere.  1792),  and  in  the 
same  year  assumed  the  additional  surnames  of  Cumming- 
Bruce.  He  owns  10,518  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£1182  per  annum.  Dunphail  Castle,  which  crowns  a 
green  conical  hill,  three-fourths  engirt  by  a  narrow 
ravine,  supposed  to  have  been  at  one  time  the  channel 
of  the  Divie,  was  vainly  besieged  in  the  beginning  of  the 
14th  century  by  Randolph,  Earl  of  Moray,  after  the 
'Battle  of  the  Lost  Standard,'  and  is  now  a  fragmentary 
ruin.  The  present  mansion,  erected  in  1828-29,  from 
designs  by  Playfair,  of  Edinburgh,  and  considerably 
enlarged  in  1842,  is  a  splendid  edifice  in  the  Venetian 
style,  with  very  beautiful  grounds.  It  was  built  on  a 
terrace  26  feet  above  and  200  yards  distant  from  the 
Divie ;  but  in  the  great  flood  of  3  and  4  Aug.  1829  it 
was  all  but  destroyed  by  that  impetuous  stream,  the 
bank  falling  in  within  one  yard  of  the  foundation  of  the 
E  toMrer.— Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  84,  1876.     See  Divie. 

Dunira,  a  fine  modern  mansion  in  Comrie  paiish, 
Perthshire,  21  miles  E  of  St  Fillans,  and  3  WNW  of 
Comrie.  From  its  wooded  hill-side  it  commands  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  Strathearn  ;  it  was  the  favourite  resid- 


DUNKELD 

ence  of  that  unfortunate  statesman,  Henry  Dundas,  first 
Viscount  Melville  (1742-1811);  and  it  now  is  a  seat  of 
Sir  Sidney  James  Dundas  of  Bkechwood,  who  holds  in 
Perthshire  5529  acres,  valued  at  £2725  per  annum. 

Dunkeld  (Celt,  dun-caldcn,  'fort  of  the  Keledei'  or 
Culdees),  a  small  but  very  interesting  town  of  Strathtay, 
Perthshire,  partly  in  the  parish  of  Caputh,  partly  m 
that  of  Dunkeld  and  Dowally.  A  burgh  of  barony,  it 
stands  216  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Tay,  which  here  receives  the  Bran,  and  here  is  spanned 
by  a  magnificent  bridge,  leading  1  mile  south-south- 
eastward to  BiitXAM  village  and  Dunkeld  station  on  the 
Highland  railwav  (1856-63),  this  being  80J  miles  S  by 
E  of  Grantown,  8i  NW  of  Stanley  Junction,  15|  NNW 
of  Perth,  61 J  NNW  of  Edinburgh,  and  77f  NE  by  N  of 
Glasgow.  The  town  lies  low,  deep  sunk  among  wooded 
heights— behind  it,  Newtyle  (996  feet)  and  Craigiebams 
(900) ;  and  opposite,  with  the  broad  deep  river  between, 
Craig  Vinean  (1247)  and  Birnam  Hill  (1324).  Gray,  in 
describing  the  approach  to  it,  speaks  of  the  rapid  Tay, 
seeming  to  issue  out  of  woods  thick  and  tall,  that  rise 
upon  either  hand ;  above  them,  to  the  W,  the  tops  of 
higher  mountains ;  do-\vn  by  the  river-side  under  the 
thickest  shades,  the  town  ;  in  its  midst  a  ruined  cathe- 
dral, the  tower  and  shell  still  entire ;  and  a  little  be- 
yond, the  Duke  of  Athole's  mansion.  Dunkeld  is, 
indeed,  the  portal  of  the  Grampian  barrier ;  and  its 
environs  ofl"er  an  exquisite  blending  of  all  that  is  most 
admired  in  the  Highlands  with  one  of  the  richest  mar- 
gins of  the  Lowlands. 

About  815,  or  nine  years  after  the  slaughter  of  the 
monks  of  lona  by  Vikings,  Constantin,  King  of  the 
Picts,  founded  the  Culdee  church  of  Dunkeld,  as  seat  of 
the  Columban  supremacy  in  Scotland ;  which  church 
was  either  completed  or  refounded  by  Kenneth  mac 
Alpin,  who  in  850  translated  to  it  a  portion  of  St 
Columba's  relics.  So  richly  does  Kenneth  seem  to 
have  endowed  this  church,  that,  prior  to  860  its  wealth 
exposed  it  to  pillage  by  the  Danes,  under  the  leadership 
of  Ragnar  Lodbroc.  The  first  of  its  bishops  was  also 
first  bishop  of  the  Pictish  kingdom,  the  Bishop  of  Fort- 
rcnn ;  but  at  his  death  in  865  the  primacy  was  transfen-ed 
to  Aberuethy,  since  the  second  abbot  is  styled  merely 
'  princeps '  or  superior,  and  may  have  been  either  a  cleric 
or  a  layman.  Lay  abbots  certainly,  and  probably 
hereditary,  were  Duncan,  who  fell  in  battle  at  Drum- 
crub  (965),  and  Crinan,  who  was  son-in-law  to  Malcolm 
II.  of  Scotia,  and  father  of  the  'gracious  Duncan,'  and 
who,  saj-s  Dr  Skene,  '  was  in  reality  a  great  secular  chief, 
occupying  a  position  in  power  and  influence  not  inferior 
to  that  of  any  of  the  native  Mormaers.'  During  his 
time  the  abbey  itself  appears  to  have  come  to  an  end, 
for  in  1027  Dunkeld  was  '  entirely  burnt. '  The  bishopric 
was  revived  in  1107  by  Alexander  I. ,  among  its  thirty- 
seven  holders  were  Bruce's  'own  bishop,' William  Sin- 
clair {oh.  1338),  and  Gamn  Douglas  (1474-1522),  the 
translator  of  Virgil's  Aeiuid.  Once  and  once  only  Dun- 
keld has  figured  markedly  in  history,  when  on  21  Aug. 
1689,  twenty-five  days  after  Killiecrankie,  the  cathedral, 
Dunkeld  House,  and  the  walls  of  its  park  were  success- 
fully held  against  5000  Highlanders  by  the  new-formed 
Cameronian  regiment,  1200  strong,  under  Lieut. -Col. 
William  Cleland,  the  same  young  poet  Covenanter  by 
whom,  ten  years  before,  Drumclog  had  been  mainly 
won.  He  now  fell  early  in  the  siege,  wliich  was  main- 
tained from  early  morn  till  close  on  midnight ;  but  his 
men  withstood  stubbornly  every  wild  onslaught  of  the 
mountaineers,  and,  being  galled  by  musketry  from  the 
town,  sent  out  a  party  with  blazing  faggots,  fastened  to 
long  pikes.  They  fired  the  dry  thatch,  and  burned 
every  house  save  three  ;  nay,  some  of  the  zealots  with 
calm  ferocity  turned  the  keys  in  the  locks,  and  left  the 
unhappy  marksmen  to  their  doom.  At  length,  worn 
out,  the  Highlanders  retreated,  whereon  the  Cameronians 
'  gave  a  great  shout  and  threw  their  caps  in  the  air,  and 
then  all  joined  in  offering  up  praises  to  God  for  so 
miraculous  a  victory.'  So  ended  this  conflict  between 
the  'Hillmen'  and  the  Mountaineers,  which,  trifling  as 
it  may  seem,  had  all  the  effect  of  a  decisive  battle  in 

435 


DUNEELO 

crushing  the  hopes  of  James  VII. 's  Scottish  adherents 
(vii.  385-390  of  Hill  Burton's  Hist.  Scotl,  ed.  1876). 
In  olden  times  Dunkeld  received  many  a  visit  from 
royalty,  on  its  way  to  hunt  in  Glen  Tilt — from  William 
the  Lyon  in  the  latter  half  of  the  12th  century,  from 
James  V.  in  1529,  and  from  Queen  Mary  in  1564.  And 
Queen  Victoria,  three  times  at  any  rate,  has  driven 
through  the  town.  First,  with  Prince  Albert,  on  7 
Sept.  1842,  when  500  Athole  men  escorted  her  from  the 
triumphal  arch  to  the  luncheon  tent  in  the  midst  of  an 
encampment  of  1000  Highlanders.  There  she  was  wel- 
comed by  the  late  Duke  of  Athole  (then  Lord  Glenlyon), 
who,  through  over-fatigue,  had  suddenly  become  quite 
blind  ;  and  there  she  beheld  a  sword-dance.  Next,  with 
Prince  Albert  still,  on  11  Sejjt.  1844,  when  they  'got 
out  at  an  inn,  which  was  small,  but  very  clean,  to  let 
Vicky  have  some  broth  ;  and  Vicky  stood  and  bowed  to 
the  people  out  of  the  window.'  Thirdly,  incognita, 
with  the  Dowager  Duchess  of  Athole,  on  3  Oct.  1865. 
Nor  have  other  illustrious  visitors  been  rare — the  poet 
Gray  (1766),  Robert  Burns  (1787),  Wordsworth  (1803), 
etc.,  etc.,  etc. 

The  pretty  village  of  Birnam,  which  has  been  sepa- 
rately noticed,  is  connected  with  the  town  by  Telford's 
noble  stone  bridge  erected  in  1805-9  at  a  cost  of  £33,978, 
of  which  £7027  was  advanced  by  the  commissioners  of 
Highland  roads,  £18,000  borrowed  on  the  security  of  the 
tolls,  and  the  rest  defrayed  by  the  Duke  of  Athole.  Mea- 
suring 685  feet  in  length,  26^  in  width,  and  54  in  height, 
it  has  seven  arches — the  middle  one  90,  two  others  each 
84,  two  others  each  74,  and  the  two  land-arches  each  20, 
feet  in  span.  The  pontage  was  abolished  in  1879.  The 
town  is  laid  out  in  the  form  of  a  cross  ;  and,  as  ap- 
proached from  the  right  side  of  the  Tay,  is  not  seen  in 
its  full  extent  till  one  reaches  the  middle  of  the  bridge. 
The  street  leading  from  the  bridge  was  commenced  in 
1808,  along  a  new  reach  of  the  Great  North  Road,  from 
Perth  to  Inverness,  by  way  of  the  bridge,  and  was 
designed  to  be  a  sort  of  new  town,  more  elegant  than 
the  old  ;  at  the  lower  or  bridge  end  staud  the  Athole 
Arms  and  the  Free  church,  at  the  upper  the  Royal 
Hotel  and  the  City  Hall.  The  street  at  right  angles  to 
it  comprises  most  of  the  old  to\vn,  as  reconstructed  after 
the  siege  of  1689,  and  with  a  single  exception  consists 
of  houses  later  than  that  date.  The  one  exception  is 
the  ancient  deanery,  standing  not  far  from  the  choir 
of  the  cathedral,  and  characterised  by  great  thickness 
of  wall. 

The  cathedral  stands  by  the  river  side,  at  the  W  end 
of  the  old  street,  a  little  apart  from  the  town,  and  on 
one  side  is  shaded  by  trees,  on  the  other  bordered  by  a 
flower  garden.  It  comprises  a  seven-bayed  nave  (1406- 
65),  122  feet  long  by  38  feet  wide,  and  40  high  to  the 
spring  of  the  roof,  with  side  aisles  12  feet  wide  ,  a  four- 
bayed  aisleless  choir  (1318-1400),  104  by  27  feet ;  a  rec- 
tangular chapter-house  (1457-65),  on  the  N  side  of  the 
choir  ;  and  a  massive  north-western  tower  (1469-1501), 
24  feet  square,  and  96  feet  higli.  All  are  Second  Pointed 
in  style,  except  the  choir,  which  retains  some  scanty 
portions  of  First  Pointed  work,  and  is  the  only  part  not 
ruinous.  Not  long  had  the  belfry  been  finished,  when, 
on  12  Aug.  1560,  Argyll  and  Ruthven  required  the 
Lairds  of  Airntully  and  Kinvaid  '  to  pass  incontinent  to 
the  Kirk  of  Dunkeld,  and  tak  doun  the  haill  images 
thereof,  and  bring  furth  to  the  kirkyard,  and  burn 
them  openly.  And  siclyke  cast  doun  the  altars, 
and  purge  the  kirk  of  all  kinds  of  monuments  of 
idolatry  ;  and  this  ye  fail  not  to  do,  as  ye  will  do  us 
siii.gular  empleasure,  and  so  commits  to  tlie  protection 
of  God.  Fail  not  but  ye  tak  good  heid  tliat  neither  the 
desks,  windocks,  nor  doors  be  onyways  hurt  or  broken, 
cither  glassin  work  or  ironwork.'  The  tenderness  of 
the  closing  injunction  woidd  seem  to  have  been  neglected, 
since  the  roofs  were  included  in  tlie  demolition  ;  and 
not  until  1600  was  the  choir  re-roofed  to  serve  as  tlie 
parish  church.  Such  it  is  still,  and  Dorothy  Words- 
worth describes  the  ruin  in  1803  as  'greatly  injured  by 
being  made  the  nest  of  a  modern  Scotch  kirk  with  sash 
windows,  very  incongruous  with  the  noble  antiime 
436 


DUNKELD 

tower;'  but  in  1815  Government  gave  £990  and  the 
Duke  of  Athole  £4410  towards  its  renovation,  and  it 
now  contains  655  sittings.  In  the  nave  may  be 
noticed  abundant  features  of  the  French  Flamboj'ant. 
The  great  W  window,  for  instance,  so  far  as  can  bo 
judged  from  the  remaining  fragments  of  its  tracery, 
appears  to  have  been  designed  on  a  peculiarly  florid 
pattern,  and  so  deflects  from  the  vertical  line  of  tho 
gable,  as  to  give  space  for  a  smaller  circular  window 
with  double  spiral  muUions,  above  which  is  a  foliated 
cross,  still  quite  entire.  The  windows  of  the  side  aisles 
are  very  beautiful,  and  present  no  fewer  than  eight 
distinct  patterns  of  tracery.  The  massive  round  piers 
dividing  the  side  aisles  from  the  nave  are  10  feet  high  to 
the  capital  and  13i  in  circumference,  and  out  of  Scot- 
land might  almost  be  taken  for  Romanesque.  The 
arches  between  them,  however,  are  unmistakably 
Second  Pointed,  with  fluted  soffits.  The  triforium  con- 
sists of  plain  semicircular  arches,  divided  by  mullions 
into  two  lights,  with  a  ti'cfoil  between  ;  and  the  clere- 
story likewise  consists  of  two-light  windows,  with  tre- 
foil heads  and  quatrefoil  interval.  Buttresses  project 
between  the  windows,  and  are  surmoimted  in  the  choir 
portion  by  crocketed  pinnacles.  An  octangular  turret, 
resembling  a  watch  tower,  at  the  south-western  angle  of 
the  nave,  terminates  in  a  small  parapeted  gallery, 
supported  on  a  rose  carved  moulding,  and  takes  up  a 
staircase,  communicating  by  an  ambulatory  with  the 
main  tower,  in  which  hang  four  bells.  An  elaborately 
sculptured  monument  of  Bishop  Robert  Cardeny  (1436), 
comprising  a  statue  of  him  in  his  robes,  beneath  a 
crocketed  canopy,  is  in  the  S  aisle  of  the  nave  ;  a 
statue  of  Bishop  William  Sinclair  (1338)  is  in  the  N 
aisle  ;  a  gigantic  stone  effigy  of  Alexander  Stewart,  Earl 
of  Buclian,  the  '  AVolf  of  Badenoch  '  (1394),  arrayed  in 
panoply  of  mail,  is  in  the  spacious  vestibule  of  the 
choir,  where  also  a  Gothic  mural  tablet  was  erected  in 
1872  to  the  memory  of  the  officers  and  men  of  the  42d 
Highlanders  who  fell  in  the  Crimean  War  and  Indian 
Mutin}'.  The  upper  part  of  it  contains  a  sculptured 
group,  in  high  relief,  representing  a  scene  on  a  battle- 
field, all  in  pure  white  marble  from  the  chisel  of  Sir 
John  Steell,  of  Edinburgh.  The  chapter-house,  adjoining 
the  N  side  of  the  choir,  is  still  entire ;  is  lighted  by  four 
tall  lancet  windows,  with  trefoil  heads,  and,  serving  as 
the  burying  place  of  the  ducal  line,  contains  a  fine 
marble  statue  of  the  fourth  Duke  of  Athole  (1833),  with 
monuments  of  other  members  of  the  family. 

The  episcopal  palace,  a  little  SW  of  the  cathedral, 
consisted  of  several  long  two-story  houses,  with  thatched 
roofs,  till  in  1408  it  was  superseded  by  a  strong  castle, 
rendered  necessary  by  frequent  annoyance  from  High- 
land caterans ;  and,  though  now  long  extinct,  has 
bequeathed  to  its  site  the  name  of  Castle  Close.  The 
bishops  made  a  great  figure  in  their  day.  They  had  four 
palaces,  at  Dunkeld,  Clunie,  Perth,  and  Edinburgh, 
and  got  their  lands  S  of  the  Forth  erected  into  the 
barony  of  Aberlady,  and  those  in  the  N  into  the 
barony  of  Dunkeld,  which  latter  extended,  not  only 
around  the  to\vn  but  continuously,  with  considerable 
breadth,  for  a  distance  of  7  miles  to  the  palace  of  Clunie. 
A  hill  on  which  the  bishops  hanged  many  a  freebooter 
rises  close  to  the  second  lodge  of  the  ducal  grounds,  and 
to  the  rear  is  a  hollow  in  which  many  persons  accused  of 
witchcraft  were  burned  at  the  stake.  An  ancient  chapel, 
on  ground  now  occupied  by  Athole  Street,  was  built 
about  1420  by  Bishop  Cardeny,  who  endowed  it  with  the 
rents  of  the  lands  of  Mucklarie,  eventually  transferred  to 
the  rector  of  the  grammar  school.  Another  ancient 
chapel  stood  on  Hillhead  to  the  E  of  the  town  ;  was 
erected  principally  for  the  inhabitants  of  Fungarth  ;  is 
now  represented  by  only  an  enclosure  wall  around  its 
site  ;  and,  having  been  dedicated  to  St  Jerome,  has 
bequeathed  to  the  people  of  Fungarth  the  ludicrous 
nickname  of  '  Jorums.' 

Dunkeld  House,  the  modest  seat  of  the  Dukes  of 
Athole,  is  a  plain  square  mansion  of  the  17th  century, 
behind  the  cathedral.  A  new  palace,  a  little  to  the  W, 
beside  the  Tay,  was  founded  by  the  fourth  Duke,  who 


DUNKELD 

left  it  unfinished  at  his  death  in  1S30.  Planned  on  a 
smnptuous  scale,  this  promised  to  form  a  magnificent 
Gothic  edifice  ;  but  the  site  did  not  please  the  next 
Duke,  so  two  stories  only  •were  nearly  linished,  vrith  a 
gallery  96  feet  long,  a  private  chapel,  a  spacious  stair- 
case, and  many  fine  mullioned  windows.  The  whole, 
after  Hopper's  designs,  would  have  cost  £200,000,  of 
which  £30,000  was  actually  expended.  The  grounds  con- 
nected with  Dunkeld  House  are  of  great  extent,  and, 
highly  improved  by  the  sixth  Duke  of  Athole,  who  died 
in  1864,  are  surpassingly  rich  in  features  of  natural  and 
artificial  beauty,  including  a  home-farm,  extensive  gar- 
dens with  vineries  and  greenhouses,  an  '  American 
garden,'  50  miles  of  walks  and  terraces,  30  miles  of 
carriage-drives,  the  Rumbling-Bridge,  the  Falls  of  Bran, 
Ossian's  Hall,  etc.  Plantations  alone  cover  18,500  acres, 
of  larch  principally,  which  is  commonly  said  to  have  here 
been  introduced  to  Scotland — a  claim  disputed,  under 
date  1725,  by  Dawick  in  Peeblesshire.  Anyhow,  '  it 
was  in  1738  that  Mr  Menzies  of  lleggemie  brought 
small  plants  of  the  tree  from  London,  and  left  five  at 
Dunkeld  and  eleven  at  Blair,  as  presents  to  the  Duke 
of  Athole.  These  sixteen  plants  no  doubt  formed  the 
source  whence  sprang  the  great  proportion  of  the  larch 
plantations  throughout  Scotland  during  last  and  the 
early  part  of  the  present  century.  .  .  .  The  entire 
area  under  larch  in  the  Athole  forest  is  stated  at  10,324 
acres,  and  the  trees  originally  planted  on  it  at  14,096,719. 

.  .  .  Of  the  five  planted  in  173S,  two  were  cut  in 
1809  ;  one  of  them  contained  147,  and  the  other  168, 
cubic  feet  of  timber  ;  and  they  were  sold  at  3s.  per  cubic 
foot.  .  .  .  The  two  remaining  ones  of  the  five  are 
still  in  a  growing  condition,  and  though  they  have  begun 
to  show  signs  of  decay,  they  might  yet  survive  many 
years.  In  1831  their  girth  at  4  feet  from  the  ground 
was  12  and  11  feet;  in  1867,  IQ%  and  14|'  ('Larch 
Forests,'  in  Trans.  Highl.  and  Ag.  Hoc,  1869).  Besides 
these  '  Mother  Larches,'  there  are  two  oaks,  two  beeches, 
and  a  sycamore,  whose  huge  dimensions  are  recorded  in 
the  same  Transact io'/is  for  1880-81. 

The  old  town  cross,  about  20  feet  high,  with  four  iron 
jougs  attached  to  it,  was  removed  about  the  beginning 
of  the  present  century  ;  in  1S66  a  fountain  was  erected 
by  public  subscription  on  its  site  to  the  memory  of  the 
sixth  Duke.  In  1877  a  substantial  City  Hall  was  built 
at  a  cost  of  £1500  ;  and  Dunkeld  has  besides  a  post 
oflBce,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  insurance,  and 
telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the  Bank  of  Scot- 
land and  the  Union  Bank,  a  local  savings'  bank,  5  in- 
surance agencies,  2  hotels  and  2  inns,  a  public  library, 
gas-works  (1851),  a  good  water-supply  (1866),  2  masonic 
lodgos,  a  Good  Templars' lodge,  curling  and  cricket  clubs, 
a  horticultural  and  poultry  association  (1869),  a  rose  asso- 
ciation (1873),  a  young  men's  Christian  association,  etc. 
Saturday  is  market-day  ;  and  fairs  are  held  on  13  Feb., 
5  April,  20  June  (St  Columba's),  and  the  second  Tuesday 
in  November  (cattle  and  horses),  but  they  have  dwindled 
greatly  in  importance.  Nor  are  there  any  manufactures, 
the  linen  industry  having  been  long  extinct.  Places  of 
worship,  other  than  the  Cathedral,  are  an  Independent 
chapel(1800;  310sittings)and  thenewFreechu^ch(1874- 
75  ;  1000  sittings).  The  latter,  which  cost  above  £3000, 
presents  a  large  gable  frontage,  with  a  tower  upon 
either  side,  of  which  the  western  terminates  in  a  slated 
sjiire,  85  feet  high.  The  interior  is  adorned  with 
a  stained-glass  memorial  ^\"indow  to  Fox-ilaule  Ramsay, 
eleventh  Earl  of  Dalhousie,  who  laid  the  foundation 
stone.  The  royal  grammar  school  was  founded  in 
1567,  the  Duchess  of  Athole's  girls'  industrial  school 
in  1853.  St  George's  Hospital,  endowed  by  Bishop 
George  Brown  in  1510  for  seven  old  bedesmen,  was 
succeeded  by  small  cottages  after  the  siege  of  1689,  and, 
through  the  loss  of  its  charter,  was  stripped  of  most 
of  its  property  about  1825.  The  town  is  governed  by  a 
baron  bailie,  under  the  Duke  of  Athole,  having  never 
availed  itself  of  Queen  Anne's  charter  of  1704  erecting  it 
into  a  royal  burgh.  Pop.  (1831)  1471,  (1841)  1094, 
(1851)  1104,  (1861)  929,  (1871),  783,  (1881)  768.— Or^^. 
6'ur.,  shs.  48,  47,  1868-69. 


DUNKELD  AND  DOWALLY 

Dunkeld  is  the  seat  of  a  presbytery  in  the  synod  of 
Perth  and  Stirling,  which  meets  on  the  last  Tuesday  of 
every  second  month,  and  comprises  the  old  parishes  of 
Auchtergaven,  Blair  Athole,  Caputh,  Cargill,  Clunie, 
Dunkeld  and  Dowally,  Little  Dunkeld,  Kinclaven,  Kirk- 
michael,  Lethendy  and  Kinloch,  Moulin,  and  Rattray, 
■with  the  qiwad  sacra  parishes  of  Glenshee  and  Tenandry, 
Pop.  (1871)  17,750,  (1881)  17,030,  of  whom  3825  were 
communicants  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878. — 
There  is  also  a  Free  Church  presbytery  of  Dunkeld,  with 
churches  of  Auchtergaven,  Blair  Athole,  Burrelton, 
Cargill,  Clunie,  Dalguise  and  Strathbran,  Dunkeld, 
Kirkmichael,  Lethendy,  Moulin,  and  Struan,  which 
together  had  1548  communicants  in  1881. 

See  Canon  Alexander  Myln's  Vitce  JDunkeldensis  Eccle- 
sicB  Episcoporum  (edited  for  Bannatyne  Club  by  T. 
Thomson,  1823-31) ;  vol.  ii.  of  Billings'  Baronial  and 
Ecclesiastical  Antiquities  of  Scotland  (1852) ;  Dunkeld, 
its  Straths  and  Glens  (new  ed.,  Dunkeld,  1879);  and 
pp.  149-162  of  Dr  "William  Marshall's  Historic  Scenes  in 
Fcrthshirc  (IbSO). 

Dunkeld  and  Dowally,  a  Strathtay  united  parish  of 
central  Perthshire,  containing  the  villages  of  Dowally 
and  KiNDALLACHAN,  and  also  part  of  the  town  of  Dun- 
keld, which  part,  however,  lies  detached  from  the  main 
body,  a  little  to  the  SE.  Bounded  N  by  Logierait,  E 
by  Clunie  and  Caputh,  and  S  and  W  by  Little  Dunkeld, 
it  has  an  utmost  length  from  N  to  S  of  6^  miles,  a  vary- 
ing breadth  from  E  to  W  of  f  mile  and  4  J  mUes,  and  an 
area  of  9825^  acres,  of  which  only  18|-  belong  to  the 
Dunkeld  portion.  The  remaining  9S07|  acres  belong- 
ing to  Dowally  include  369  of  water,  and  comprise  a 
detached  section,  the  barony  of  Dalcapon,  which,  lying 
mainly  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tummel,  \h  mile  N  of 
Ballinluig  Junction,  and  surrounded  on  three  sides  by 
Logierait,  has  a  length  from  SW  to  NE  of  4  miles,  with 
a  var\dng  width  of  2J  and  7  furlongs.  The  Tay  flows 
6|  miles  south-south-eastward  along  all  the  boundary 
with  Little  Dunkeld,  and  receives  Kindallachan  and 
Dowally  Burns  from  the  interior.  In  the  interior,  too, 
are  Loch  Ordie  (5  x  3^  furl.),  Lochan  na  Beinne  (U  x  f 
furl.),  St  Colme's  Loch  (2x1  furl.),  and  Dowally  Loch 
(l|x|furL),  whilst  at  the  meeting-point  of  Logierait, 
Moulin,  and  the  Dalcapon  section  lies  Loch  Broom  (5^ 
X  2  furl. ).  Along  the  Tay  the  surface  decUnes  to  less 
than  200  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  eastward  to 
1440  feet  near  Lochan  na  Beinne  and  1622  at  Chapel 
HilL  Dorothy  Wordsworth  has  left  us  her  impres- 
sion of  this  parish,  through  which  she  drove  with  her 
brother  on  8  Sept.  1804:— 'We  travelled  down  the 
Tummel  till  it  is  lost  in  the  Tay,  and  then,  in  the 
same  direction,  continued  our  course  along  the  vale 
of  the  Tay,  which  is  very  wide  for  a  considerable 
way,  but  gradually  narrows,  and  the  river,  always 
a  fine  stream,  assumes  more  dignity  and  importance. 
Two  or  three  miles  before  we  reached  Dunkeld,  we 
observed  whole  hill -sides,  the  jiroperty  of  the  Duke  of 
Athole,  planted  with  fir  trees  till  they  are  lost  among 
the  rocks  near  the  tops  of  the  hills.  In  forty  or  fifty 
years  these  plantations  will  be  very  fine ' — a  prediction 
abundantly  verified,  woods,  mostly  of  larch,  now  cloth- 
ing the  entire  parish,  with  the  exception  of  barely  one- 
fortieth  in  pasture  and  little  more  than  a  tenth  under 
crops.  The  Queen,  too,  remarks  in  her  Journal  on  the 
beautiful  windings  of  the  Tay  and  the  richly-wonded 
height,  rocky  and  pyramidal,  of  Craigiebarns. '  A  large 
white  building,  St  Colme's,  7  furlongs  SSE  of  Dowally 
and  4  miles  NNW  of  Dunkeld,  is  the  model  farm  of  the 
Dowager  Duchess  of  Athole  ;  and  the  Duke  of  Athole  is 
the  sole  proprietor.  This  parish  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Dunkeld  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £232.  The  churches  are  noticed  under  Dowally 
and  Dunkeld  ;  and  Dowally  public,  Dunkeld  Duchess  of 
Athole's,  and  Dunkeld  Royal  schools,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  107, 135,  and  151  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  42,  85,  and  68,  and  grants  of 
£48,  17s.,  £86,  5s.  6d.,  and  £54,  Is.  Valuation  (1882) 
£3356,  10s.  8d.  Pop.  of  parish  (1801)  1857,  (1831)  2037, 
(1841)  1752,  (1861)  971,  (1871)  839;  of  Dunkeld  regis- 

437 


DUNKELD  AND  PERTH  RAILWAY 

tration  district  (1S71)  SSI,  (1881)  SS2.—0rd.  Snr.,  slis. 
55,  56,  47,  18(59-70. 

Dunkeld  and  Perth  Railway.  See  Highland  Rail- 
way. 

Dunkeld,  Little,  a  Strathtay  parish  of  central  Perth- 
sliire,  containing  the  villages  of  Birnam,  Inver,  Dal- 
guise,  and  Balnaguard,  with  the  stations  of  Murthly, 
Dunkeld,  and  Dalguise.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Logierait, 
NE  by  Dunkeld-Dowally  and  Caputh,  E  by  Kinclaven, 
S  by  Anchtergaven,  the  Tullybeagles  section  of  Methven, 
the  Logiealmond  section  of  Monzie,  and  Fowlis  Wester, 
W  by  Dull  and  a  fragment  of  Weem.  Its  utmost 
length,  from  N  to  S,  is  11;^  miles  ;  its  width  varies  be- 
tween 2|  and  14|  miles,  the  latter  measured  from  W  by  N 
to  E  by  S,  viz. ,  from  Loch  Fender  to  the  Tay  near  Murthly 
station  ;  and  its  area  is  41,941^  acres,  of  which  872^  are 
water.  The  Tay  sweeps  17§  miles  east-south-eastward, 
southward,  and  east-south-eastward  again,  along  all  the 
boundary  with  Logierait,  Dunkeld-Dowally,  and  Ca- 
puth ;  its  affluent,  the  Bran,  from  9  furlongs  below  its 
exit  from  Loch  Freuchie,  winds  12^  miles  east-north- 
eastward, partly  along  the  southern  border,  but  mainly 
through  the  interior.  Loch  Skiach  (6  x  3^  furl.)  and 
Little  Loch  Skiach  (2^  x  H  furl.)  lie  towards  the  middle 
of  the  parish  ;  and  on  its  western  border  are  Lochs 
Crcagh  (1§  x  f  furl. )  and  Fender  (2f  x  2  furl.).  In  the 
furthest  E  the  surface  sinks  along  the  Tay  to  less  than 
200  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  westward  and 
north-westward  to  Kingswood  (451  feet),  Birnam  Hill 
(1324),  Little  Trochrie  Hill  (1199),  Creag  Liath 
(1399),  Airlich  (1026),  Meikle  Crochan  (1915),  Craig 
A'inean  (1247),  Druim  Mor  (1203),  Meall  Mor  (1512), 
Craig  Hulich  (1809),  Meall  Dearg  (2258),  Creag 
Mhor  (1612),  Creag  an  Eunaich  (1506),  Meall  Reamhar 
(1659),  Elrick  More  (1693),  Craig  Lochie  (1700), 
and  Creag  Maoiseach  (1387),  where  the  eleven  last 
are  all  to  the  N  of  the  Bran.  Roofing-slate,  of 
excellent  quality  and  of  a  deep-blue  hue,  has  been  quar- 
ried on  Birnam  Hill,  and  fine-grained  sandstone  near 
l\Iurthly,  while  potters-clay  occurs  in  Strathbran.  The 
soil  is  black  loam  throughout  most  of  the  eastern  valley, 
on  the  other  arable  lands  is  partly  black  mould,  partly 
a  mixture  of  sand  and  gravel,  and  on  the  hills  is  very 
poor.  Nearly  three-sevenths  of  the  entire  area  are 
regularly  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  less  than  a  fifth  is 
pastoral,  about  one-thirteenth  is  under  wood,  and  all 
the  remainder  is  waste.  A  considerable  though  ever 
lessening  number  of  cairns,  stone  circles,  and  hill-forts 
make  up  the  antiquities,  with  '  Duncan's  Camp  '  upon 
Birnam  Hill,  the  ruins  of  Trochrie  Castle,  an  old  bridge 
across  the  Bran  a  little  higher  up,  and  a  memorial  stone 
at  Ballinloan  that  marks  the  meeting-place  of  feudal 
courts.  In  the  daj's  of  Bishop  James  Bruce,  about  the 
middle  of  the  15th  century,  this  parish  suffered  severely 
from  the  raids  of  Robert  Reoch  Macdonnochie  ;  and  at 
some  period  unknown  to  record  its  church  and  its 
clergy  would  seem  to  have  fared  but  poorly  at  the  hands 
of  its  own  parishioners.     For — 

'  Oh  !  sic  a  parish,  oh  !  sic  a  parish  ! 

Oh  !  sic  a  parish  is  Little  buiikcl'  ! 
Thej'hae  hanf;:it  the  minister,  droun'd  the  precentor. 
Dung  doun  the  steeple,  an'  fuddl'd  the  bell.' 

Thanks  to  the  beauty  of  its  scenery.  Little  Dunkeld  has 
many  interesting  memories  of  visits  from  illustrious  per- 
sonages— the  poets  Gray  and  Wordsworth,  the  Queen 
and  Prince  Consort,  Millais  the  painter,  and  others. 
Perhaps  the  most  interesting  of  all  is  that  thus  noted  in 
Puirns's  Highland  Tour  :—'  30  Aug.  1787.  Walk  with 
Mrs  Stewart  and  Beard  to  Birnam  top — fine  prospect 
down  Tay — Craigiebarns  hills — Hermitage  on  the  Bran, 
with  a  picture  of  Ossian — breakfast  with  Dr  Stewart — 
Neil  Gow  plays — a  short,  stout-built,  honest.  Highland 
figure,  with  his  greyish  hair  shed  on  his  honest  social 
brow — an  interesting  face,  marking  strong  sense,  kind 
openheartf;dness,  mixed  with  unmistrusting  simplicity — 
visit  his  hou.se— Marget  Gow.'  Neil  Gow  (1727-1807) 
was  born  at  Inver  ;  so  was  his  son,  Nathaniel  (1766- 
1831),  who  was  himself  a  masterly  violinist.  The  prin- 
cipal mansions  are  Murthly  Castle,  Dalguise  House, 
438 


DTJNLOP 

Kinnaird  House,  Kinloch  Lodge,  Torwood,  St  Mary's 
Tower,  and  Erigmore ;  and  6  heritors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  7  feuars  of  between  £100 
and  £500,  9  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  7  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Giving  off  portions  to  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of 
Amulree  and  Logiealmond,  Little  Dunkeld  is  in  the 
I)rcsbytery  of  Dunkeld  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling ; 
the  living  is  worth  £358.  There  are  two  churches — the 
one,  by  the  Tay,  nearly  opposite  Dunkeld,  built  in 
1798,  and  containing  820  sittings  ;  the  other,  in  Strath- 
bran, near  Rumbling- Bridge,  3  miles  to  the  WSW, 
rebuilt  in  1851,  and  containing  250.  There  is  also  a 
Free  church  of  Strathbran  and  Dalguise,  standing  near 
Trochrie,  4  miles  WSW  of  Dunkeld  ;  and  the  five 
schools  of  Drumour,  Little  Dunkeld,  Murthly,  Balna- 
guard, and  Dalguise,  with  respective  accommodation  for 
67,  200,  88,  37,  and  56  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  46,  137,  59,  27,  and  56,  and  grants  of  £37, 
14s.,  £144,  5s.  6d.,  £57,  lis.  6d.,  £37,  3s.,  and  £52, 
17s.  Valuation  (1843)  £8960,  6s.  lOd.,  (1882)  £20,209, 
6s.  lid.  Pop.  of  parish  (1801)  2977,  (1831)  2867,  (1861) 
2104,  (1871)  2373  ;  of  registration  district  (1871)  2352, 
(1881)  2149.— Ore?.  Sur.,  shs.  47,  48,  55,  1868-69. 

Dunkenny,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Eassie  and 
Nevay  parish,  Forfarshire,  2  miles  WSW  of  Glamis 
station.  Its  owner,  John  Ramsay  L'Amy,  Esq.  (b.  1813; 
sue.  1854),  holds  475  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £700 
per  annum. 

Dunlappie,  an  ancient  parish  in  the  N  of  Forfarshire, 
united  in  1612  to  Stracathro.  It  forms  the  north- 
western district  of  the  present  Stracathro  parish  ;  takes 
its  name  from  the  two  words  Dun  and  Lappie,  signifying 
a  'hill'  and  'water;'  and  consists  partly  of  Lundie 
Hill  (800  feet),  with  West  Water  flowing  around  much  of 
the  hill's  base,  and  partly  of  lower  grounds  traversed  by 
numerous  streamlets. 

Dun  Leacainn,  a  massive  hill  (1173  feet)  in  Inverary 
parish,  Argyllshire,  rising  from  the  margin  of  Loch 
Fyne  to  the  NE  of  Furnace  village,  8  miles  SW  of 
Inverary  town.  A  granite  quarry,  furnishing  stones  of 
fine  grain  and  colour  for  exportation,  is  worked  in  a 
spur  of  the  hill,  and  was  the  scene  of  a  stupendous  blast 
in  Oct.  1871,  when  4  tons  of  gunpowder,  deposited  in  a 
deep  boring,  the  result  of  more  than  a  twelvemonth's 
operation,  exploded  ^^•ith  a  muflled  roar,  and  with  a 
slight  upheaval  of  the  hill-front ;  and  tore  into  pieces, 
ready  for  working  to  the  desired  size,  many  thousand 
tons  of  the  solid  rock. 

Dunliath,  an  old  Scandinavian  fort  in  Kilmuir  parish, 
Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness-shire. 

Dunlichity,  an  ancient  parish  of  NE  Inverness-shire, 
united  in  1618  to  Daviot,  and  lying  along  Strathnairn 
to  the  SW  of  Daviot.  It  takes  its  name,  originally 
JJunlecatti,  and  signifying  'the  hill  of  the  Catti,'  from 
a  hill  adjacent  to  its  church ;  it  forms  the  larger  portion 
of  the  united  parish  of  Daviot  and  Dunlichity  ;  and  it 
still  has  a  church  of  its  owm,  rebuilt  in  1758,  and  con- 
taining 300  sittings.  The  Catti,  whose  territory  lay  in 
and  around  it,  were  the  ancestors  of  the  Clan  Chattan, 
comprising  Macintoshes,  MacPhersons,  Davidsons, 
MacGillivrays,  MacBeans,  VicGovies,  Gows  or  Smiths, 
and  others,  all  followers  of  Macintosh  of  Macintosh. 

Dunlop,  a  village  in  the  N  of  Cunninghame  district, 
Ayrshire,  and  a  parish  partly  also  in  Renfrewshire.  The 
village,  standing  on  the  right  bank  of  Glazert  Burn,  has 
a  post  and  telegraph  office,  a  branch  of  the  Clydesdale 
I'ank,  and  a  station  on  the  Glasgow,  Barrhead,  and  Kil- 
marnock Joint  railway,  2g  miles  NNW  of  Stewarton,  7| 
NNW  of  Kilmarnock,  and  16  SW  of  Glasgow  ;  fairs  are 
held  at  it  on  the  second  Fri<lay  of  May,  o.  s.,  and  12 
Nov.     Pop.  (1861)  330,  (1871)  380,  (1881)  357. 

The  parish,  containing  also  Lugton  Junction,  2.{  miles 
N  of  Dunlop  and  5i  E  by  S  of  Beith,  is  bounded  N  and 
NE  by  Neilston,  SE  and  S  by  Stewarton,  and  NW  by 
I'.cith.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NE  to  SW,  is  55  miles  ; 
its  lireadth,  from  NW  to  SE,  varies  between  3.^  furlongs 
and  2^  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  7181|  acres,  of  which  1101 
belong  to  Renfrewshire,  and  2  are  water.  Three  streams 
all  run  south-westward,  on  their  ultimate  way  to  the 


DUNLOSEIN 

Irvine— LuGTON  Water  along  the  boundary  with  Beith, 
Corsehill  Burn  along  that  with  Stewarton,  and  Glazert 
Burn  right  through  the  interior  ;  Halket  Loch,  covering 
9  or  10  acres,  was  drained  about  1830.  Sinking  to  280 
feet  above  sea-level  at  the  south-western  corner  of  the 
parish,  the  surface  rises  thence  to  444  feet  near  Ravens- 
lie,  447  near  Dunlop  station,  583  near  Titwood,  828 
near  Craignaught,  687  near  East  Halket,  and  749  at 
Drumgrain — steep  rocky  knolls  or  hills  these  last  that 
command  a  brilliant  panoramic  prospect.  The  rocks 
are  partly  eruptive,  partly  carboniferous ;  claystone- 
porphyry,  amygdaloid,  greenstone,  and  basalt  have  been 
extensively  quarried  ;  limestone  is  plentiful,  and  has 
long  been  worked  ;  and  coal  exists,  but  of  very  inferior 
quality.  Columnar  basalt,  its  pillars  generally  penta- 
gonal and  somewhat  curved,  occurs  at  Lochridge  Hills, 
and  has  been  laid  bare  by  quarrying  operations.  The 
soil  in  a  few  spots  is  moss,  in  some  is  a  fine  loam,  and 
mostly  is  of  a  clayey  retentive  nature,  very  productive, 
especially  in  grass.  Barbara  Gilmour,  a  woman  whose 
wits  had  been  sharpened  by  exile  in  Ireland  during 
Scotland's  troubles  between  the  Restoration  and  the 
Revolution,  settled  down  in  Dunlop  as  a  farmer's  wife, 
and,  liaving  specially  turned  her  attention  to  the  pro- 
duce of  the  dairy,  attempted  successfully  to  manufacture 
Irom  unskimmed  milk  a  species  of  cheese  till  then  un- 
known in  Scotland,  and  differing  vastly  from  the  horny 
insipidity  of  her  foregoers.  Her  process  soon  was  copied 
by  her  neighbours  ;  and  '  Dunlop  cheese '  came  in  a 
short  time  into  such  demand,  that  whether  made  by 
Barbara  or  her  neighbours,  or  by  the  housewives  of 
adjoining  parishes,  it  found  a  ready  market  far  and  near. 
Even  Cobbett  himself  pronounced  it  'equal  in  quality  to 
any  cheese  from  Cheshire,  Gloucestershire,  or  Wiltshire. ' 
The  Cimninghame  cattle  of  the  present  day,  from  whose 
milk  this  famous  cheese  is  mostly  made,  are  descendants 
Irom  several  foreign  animals — Alderneys,  according  to 
tradition — purchased  about  the  middle  of  last  century 
by  Mr  John  Dunlop  of  Dunlop  House.  Aiket  Castle 
is  the  principal  antiquity  ;  a  pre-Reformation  chapel,  ^ 
mile  from  the  village,  having  left  no  vestiges.  From  at 
least  1260  down  to  1858  the  lands  of  Dunlop  were  held 
by  a  family  of  the  same  name,  the  last  but  one  of  whom 
John  Dunlop  (1806-39),  M.P.  for  the  county,  was  created 
a  baronet  in  1838.  He  it  was  that  built  Dunlop  House 
in  1833,  a  fine  Tudor  mansion,  IJ  mile  E  of  Dunlop 
station.  At  present  3  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  21  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  13  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  13  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Dunlop  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Irvine  and  synod  of 
Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  the  living  is  worth  £367.  The  parish 
church,  built  in  1835,  is  a  handsome  edifice,  containing 
750  sittings.  There  is  also  a  Free  church  ;  and  a  public 
school,  with  accommodation  for  221  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  144,  and  a  grant  of  £107,  15s. 
Valuation  (1860)  £9750;  (1882)  £13,104,  19s.,  ^jJws 
£2550  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801)  808,  (1831)  1040,  (1861) 
1038,  (1871)  1160,  (1881)  13QB.—0rd.  Sur.,  sh.  22, 
1865. 

Dunloskin,  a  farm  with  a  small  fresh-water  lake  in 
Dunoon  parish,  Argyllshire,  on  the  Hafton  estate,  1 
mile  N  by  W  of  Dunoon  town.  Loch  Loskin  (500  x  200 
yards)  lies  at  an  altitude  of  110  feet  above  sea-level,  and 
is  famous  for  water-lilies  and  other  aquatic  plants  ;  W 
of  it  rises  peaked  Dunan  (575  feet),  which  commands  a 
splendid  view. 

Dunlugas,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion  in  Alvah  parish, 
Banffshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Deveron,  4^  miles 
NNW  of  Turriff.  Built  in  1793,  the  mansion  is  a  hand- 
some three-story  granite  edifice,  with  very  beautiful 
grounds.  Its  owner.  Captain  Hans  George  Leslie, 
owns  1568  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1447  per 
annum.     See  Alvah. 

Dunmacsniochan.     See  Beregonium. 

Dunmaglass  (Gael,  dun-na-glas,  'grey  castle'),  an 
estate,  with  a  shooting-lodge,  in  the  detached  Nairn- 
shire section  of  Daviot  and  Dunlichity  parish,  15  mili's 
SSW  of  Daviot  church,  and  6J  E  by  S  of  Inverfarigaig 
pier,   upon   Loch   Ness.       Since  1626   the   estate   has 


DUNMYAT 

belonged  to  the  heads  of  the  Macgillivrays,  its  present 
holder  being  Neil  John  ]\Iacgillivray,  Esq. ,  of  Montreal, 
in  Canada  ;  and,  extending  over  12,600  acres  of  £1000 
annual  value,  it  comprehends  all  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Farigaig. 

Dunman,  a  rocky  hill  on  the  SW  coast  of  Kirkmai- 
den  jiarish,  Wigtownshire,  overhanging  the  sea,  4^  miles 
WNW  of  the  Mull  of  Galloway.  It  rises  to  a  height  of 
522  feet  ;  is  crowned  with  the  vestiges  of  an  ancient 
fort,  probably  of  the  times  of  the  Strathclyde  or  Cum- 
brian kingdom  ;  and,  about  the  end  of  last  century,  had 
an  eagle's  eyrie  on  its  cliffs. 

Dvuunhieraonaill  or  Bonaldson's  Tower,  a  ruined 
ancient  beacon  or  watch-tower  in  Kilninver  and  Kilmel- 
fort  parish,  Argyllshire,  on  a  point  on  the  coast  of  the 
Sound  of  INIuU. 

Dunmoor.     See  Dun,  Muir  of. 

Dunmore,  a  conspicuous  height  (841  feet)  in  Comrie 
parish,  Perthshire,  1^  mile  N  by  W  of  Comrie  village. 
It  is  crowned  by  a  handsome  granite  obelisk,  72  feet 
high,  erected  in  1815  to  the  memory  of  Henry  Dundas 
of  DuNiRA,  first  Viscount  Melville  (1742-1811) ;  and  it 
commands  a  magnificent  view  of  Strathearn. 

Dunmore,  a  hill  (1520  feet)  in  Crieff  parish,  Perth- 
shire, flanking  the  left  or  E  side  of  the  Sma'  Glen  of 
Glenalmond,  5  miles  S  of  Amulree.  A  ruined  ancient 
fort  surmounting  it,  about  half  a  rood  in  extent,  consists 
of  strong  stone  bulwarks,  in  places  double,  and  partly 
vitrified  on  the  W  side.  Inaccessible  on  all  sides  except 
one,  and  there  defended  by  a  deep  trench,  30  paces  be- 
yond the  bulwarks,  it  is  believed  to  belong  to  the  ancient 
Caledonian  times  ;  and  has,  by  popular  tradition  and  by 
some  credulous  antiquaries,  been  regarded  as  a  habita- 
tion of  Fingal.     See  Clach-na-Ossian. 

Dunmore.     See  Kilcalmonell. 

Dunmore,  a  village  and  a  noble  mansion  in  Airth 
parish,  Stirlingshire.  The  village  stands  on  the  right 
shore  of  the  Forth,  2^  miles  NNE  of  Airth  station, 
and  8  ESE  of  Stirling,  under  which  it  has  a  post  and 
telegraph  office.  Its  small  harboiir  is  a  place  of  call 
for  the  Stirling  and  Granton  steamers.  The  mansion, 
I  mile  WSW  of  the  village,  is  a  plain  castellated 
edifice,  and  stands  amid  splendid  gardens  and  beauti- 
fully wooded  grounds,  containing  and  commanding 
delightful  views.  Its  private  Episcopal  chapel,  St 
Andrew's  (1850-51),  is  a  good  Early  English  structure, 
with  stained-glass  windows,  monuments  to  the  two  last 
earls,  and  an  exqirisite  marble  one  to  the  Hon.  Mrs  C.  A. 
Murray,  who  died  in  1851.  Beneath  the  chapel  is  the 
Dunmore  mausoleum,  and  close  to  it  is  the  tower  of  the 
old  Elphinstone  castle.  Dunmore  is  the  chief  Scottish 
seat  of  Charles  Adolphus  Murray,  seventh  Earl  of  Dun- 
more since  1686  (b.  1841  ;  sue.  1845),  who  is  fifth  in 
descent  from  the  second  son  of  the  first  Marquis  of 
Athole,  and  who  owns  in  Stirlingshire  4620  acres, 
valued  at  £8923  per  annum.     See  Harris. 

Dun,  Muir  of,  a  hamlet  in  Dun  parish,  Forfarshire, 
3  miles  N  by  W  of  Bridge  of  Dun  Junction.  It  has  fairs 
on  the  first  Tuesday  of  May,  old  style,  and  the  third 
Thursday  of  June. 

Dunmyat,  an  abrupt  commanding  hill  in  the  Perth- 
shire portion  of  Logic  parish,  to  the  N  of  the  Links 
of  Fortli,  and  3|  miles  NE  of  Stirling.  A  frontier 
mass  of  the  Ochils,  it  projects  somewhat  from  the 
contiguous  hills,  standing  out  from  them  like  a  but- 
tress, and  presenting  to  the  Carse  of  the  Forth  an 
acclivity  of  steeps,  precipices,  and  cliffs  ;  it  consists  of 
rocks  akin  to  those  of  the  neiglibouring  lulls,  but 
penetrated  with  large  workable  veins  of  barytes  ;  it 
rises  to  an  altitude  of  1375  feet  above  sea-level ;  and  it 
commands,  from  its  summit,  a  prospect  of  great  extent 
and  diversity,  almost  unrivalled  in  gorgeousness,  and 
comprehending  tlie  domain  of  Airthrey,  the  vale  of  the 
Devon,  Cambuskenneth  Abbey,  the  town  and  castle  of 
Stirling,  the  Carse  of  the  Forth,  the  luxuriant  Lothians, 
the  fertile  strath  between  the  Forth  and  the  Clyde  away 
to  the  centre  of  Clydesdale,  the  upper  basin  of  the  Forth 
to  the  river  springs  on  Ben  Lomond,  and  the  peaks  and 
masses  of  the  frontier  Grampians  ^nd  of  the  Southern 

439 


DUNN 

Highlands,  from  the  centre  of  Perthshire  all  round  to 
the  Peutlands.— Orrf.  Sur.,  sh.  39,  1869.  ^ 

Dunn,  a  hamlet,  with  an  inn,  in  Watten  parish, 
Caithness,  near  the  head  of  Loch  Watten,  9  miles  SE 
of  Thurso. 

Dun-na-Feulan  or  Gull  Rocks,  two  rocky  islets  near 
the  cliffs  of  Sanda  island,  in  Small  Isles  parish,  Argj-11- 
shire.  Of  different  magnitudes,  hut  of  similar  height, 
rising  100  feet  above  sea-level,  they  form  striking  scenic 
combinations  with  surrounding  objects  ;  and,  when  the 
mountains  of  Rum  are  swathed  in  clouds  and  the  inter- 
vening sea-sound  is  lashed  into  tumult  by  a  storm,  their 
appearance  is  singularly  grand.  One  of  them  is  so 
slender  as  to  present  some  resemblance  to  a  steeple  ;  and 
it  consists  partly  of  trap  rock  and  jiartly  of  conglome- 
rate, divided  from  each  other  by  a  vertical  plane. 

Dunnagoil.     See  Dunagoil. 

Dimnechtan.    See  Dunnichen. 

Dimnemarle.     See  Dunim.\rle. 

Dunnet,  a  village  and  a  parish  in  the  N  of  Caithness. 
The  village  stands,  near  the  north-eastern  corner  of 
Dunnet  Bay,  3  miles  NNE  of  Castletown  and  9  ENE 
of  Thurso  by  road,  only  2^  and  6f  by  sea  ;  a  little  place 
with  a  beautiful  southern  exposure,  it  has  a  post  office 
under  Thurso,  an  inn,  and  fairs  on  the  first  Tuesday 
of  April,  the  last  Tuesday  of  August,  and  the  second 
Tuesday  of  October. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NW  and  N  by  the  Pentland 
Firth,  E  by  Canisbay,  SE  by  Bower,  SW  by  Bower  aud 
Olrig,  and  W  by  Dunnet  Bay.  Its  utmost  length,  from 
N  to  S,  is  8  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  be- 
tween 4J  furlongs  and  6^  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  17,758:^ 
acres,  of  which  383§  are  foreshore  and  519  water.  The 
coast-line,  about  15  miles  in  length,  is  occupied  over 
more  than  half  that  distance  by  the  bold  promontory  of 
Dunnet  Head  ;  comprises  a  reach  of  H  mile  in  the 
extreme  SW  of  level  sand,  and  a  reach  of  2^  miles  in  the 
extreme  E  of  low  shore  accessible  at  several  creeks  ;  and, 
in  all  other  parts  is  rocky  and  more  or  less  inaccessible, 
Dunnet  Bay  (3J  x  2^  miles)  strikes  east-south-eastward 
from  the  Pentland  Firth,  along  the  SW  base  of  Dunnet 
Head,  and,  extending  to  the  said  reach  of  level  sand, 
belongs  on  its  southern  shore  to  Olrig  parish.  Through- 
out its  connection  with  Dunnet  it  affords  no  shelter  for 
vessels,  but  forms  there  excellent  fishing  ground  for 
saithe,  flounders,  etc.,  and  is  sometimes  frequented,  in 
July  and  August,  by  shoals  of  herrings.  Dunnet  Head, 
4  miles  long  and  from  If  to  3  miles  across,  goes  north- 
ward from  the  vicinity  of  the  village  to  a  semicircular 
termination  ;  and,  consisting  mainly  of  a  hill  ridge 
diversified  with  heights  and  hollows,  it  stoops  precipi- 
tously to  the  sea  all  round  its  coast  in  broken  rocks 
from  100  to  306  feet  high.  It  contains  at  or  near  the 
water  line  several  caves,  and  is  crowned  on  its  extremity 
by  a  lighthouse,  erected  in  1831  at  a  cost  of  £9135, 
and  showing  a  fixed  light,  visible  at  the  distance  of  23 
nautical  miles.  The  rest  of  the  laud  is  comparatively  low 
and  flat,  attaining  only  200  feet  above  sea-level  at  Bar- 
rock  near  the  Free  church,  and  216  near  Greenland 
school.  Besides  ten  little  lakes  on  Dunnet  Head,  the 
largest  of  them  the  Loch  of  Bushtas  (3x1  furl.),  there 
are  in  the  interior  St  John's  Loch  (6^  x  4  J  furl. )  and  Loch 
Hailan  (8 J  x  3J  furl.)  ;  but  Loch  Syster  (If  x  |  mile),  on 
the  Cani^ay  border,  was  drained  in  1866  at  a  cost  of 
£840,  whereby  269  acres  of  solum  were  exposed — 150 
of  them  capable  of  cultivation.  Sandstone,  of  compact 
structure  suitable  for  ordinary  masonry  and  for  mill- 
stones, rollers,  and  gate  posts,  forms  the  main  mass  of 
Dunnet  Head  ;  sandstone-flag,  suitable  for  pavement 
and  similar  to  the  famous  Caithness  flag  of  other  parts 
of  the  county,  underlies  the  interior  districts  ;  and  both 
are  extensively  quarried.  The  soil,  on  Dunnet  Head,  is 
mostly  moss,  incumbent  on  moorland-pan  ;  on  the  eastern 
seaboard,  is  black  loam,  overlying  sandy  clay  ;  on  the 
south-western  seaboard,  round  Dunnet  village,  is  a  dry, 
black,  sandy  loam  ;  over  2000  acres  eastward  of  Dunnet 
Bay  is  benty  sand  or  links,  formerly  in  commonage,  but 
now  divided  among  several  farms,  and  considerably 
\othed  with  herbage  ;  over  3000  acres  in  the  extreme 
440 


DUNNICHEN 

E  is  moss,  from  2  to  6  feet  deep,  resting  upon  blue 
clay;  and  in  the  southern  districts  is  an  argillaceous 
loam,  incumbent  on  a  bed  of  clay  from  2  to  5  feet 
deep.  If  the  entire  land  surface  be  classified  into  17 
parts,  about  5  of  them  are  in  cultivation,  2  are  links,  6 
are  moss,  and  4  are  improvable  waste.  Several  of  the 
ancient  structures,  usually  called  Picts'  houses,  are  in  the 
parish,  one  of  them  at  Ham  being  still  fairly  entire  ;  in 
1873,  a  cist  at  Kirk  o'  Banks  yielded  5  penannular  silver 
armlets,  about  3  inches  in  diameter,  which  now  are  in 
the  Edinburgh  Antiquarian  Museum.  A  pre-Roforma- 
tion  chapel  at  Dunnet  Head  and  two  others  in  different 
localities  have  left  some  vestiges.  Timothy  Pont,  the 
topographer,  was  minister  during  1601-8.  Dunnet  is 
in  the  presbyter^y  of  Caithness  and  synod  of  Sutherland 
and  Caithness  ;  the  living  is  worth  £311.  The  jiarish 
church  at  the  village  is  ancient,  and,  repaired  and 
enlarged  in  1837,  contains  700  sittings.  There  is  also  a 
Free  church  at  Barrock,  2J  miles  to  the  E.  Three  public 
schools — Dunnet,  Cross  Roads,  and  Greenland — with  re- 
spective accommodation  for  100,  185,  and  68  children, 
had  (1881)  an  average  attendance  of  115,  54,  and  24, 
and  grants  of  £91,  £48,  and  £33,  6s.  Valuation  (1881) 
£6237,  lis.,  of  which  £4343,  18s.  belonged  to  James 
Christie  Traill,  Esq.  Pop.  (1801)  1366,'  (1831)  1906, 
(1861)  1861,  (1871)  1661,  (1881)  1625,  of  whom  63  were 
Gaelic  speaking,  and  16  tinkers  dwelling  in  caves. — Ord. 
Sur.,  sh.  116,  1S78. 

Dunnichen,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  Forfarshire. 
The  village  stands  If  mile  E  by  N  of  Kingsmuir  station, 
on  the  Dundee  and  Forfar  section  of  the  Caledonian 
Railway,  and  3f  miles  ESE  of  its  post-town,  Forfar. 
A  great  March  fair  once  held  at  it  is  now  extinct. 

The  parish,  containing  also  Letham  village  and  Kings- 
muir station,  is  boimded  N  and  NE  by  Rescobie,  E  by 
Kirkden  and  Carmyllie,  S  by  the  Kirkbuddo  section  of 
Guthrie,  SW  by  Inverarity,  W  and  NW  by  Forfar. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  3f  miles  ;  its  \vidth, 
from  E  to  W,  varies  between  7§  furlongs  and  3g  miles  ; 
and  its  area  is  4922  acres,  of  which  827|  belong  to 
the  DuNBARROW  detached  section,  and  5  are  water. 
The  surface,  sinking  near  Letham  to  close  on  300  feet 
above  sea-level,  thence  rises  south-westward  to  418  near 
Craichie,  513  near  Fairhead,  and  614  near  Draffinn  ; 
and  west-north-westward  to  764  at  Dunnichen  Hill,  on 
the  Rescobie  border,  which,  either  cultivated  or  planted 
to  its  summit,  was  originall)'  called  Dun-Nechtan,  per- 
haps after  Nectan  Morbet,  a  Pictish  king  (457-81). 
The  rivulet  Vinney,  running  from  W  to  E  along  the 
base  of  Dunnichen  Hill,  receives  some  rills  in  its  pro- 
gress, and  passes  into  Kirkden,  there  to  fall  into  the 
Lunan.  A  marsh  of  some  50  acres  in  extent,  called  the 
Mire  of  Dunnichen,  and  containing  an  islet  on  which 
the  ancient  church  of  Dunnichen  is  said  to  have  been 
built,  was  drained,  and  is  now  under  cultivation. 
Sandstone,  quarried  for  various  purposes,  is  the  pre- 
vailing rock  ;  and  the  soils,  for  the  most  jjart,  are 
either  friable  loams  with  predominance  of  sand,  or 
friable  clays  on  retentive  bottoms.  Fully  three-fourths 
of  the  entire  area  are  either  regularly  or  occasionally  in 
tillage,  a  little  more  than  one-tenth  is  under  wood,  and 
the  rest  is  either  pastoral  or  waste.  A  Caledonian  or 
Pictish  fort,  on  a  low  southern  shoulder  of  Dunnichen 
Hill,  had  left  some  vestiges,  which  were  partly  removed 
for  building  dykes,  and  partly  obliterated  by  a  quarry  ; 
another  ancient  fort  on  Dunbarrow  Hill  is  still  traceable 
in  its  foundations.  In  a  .sanguinary  battle,  fought  on 
the  East  Mains  of  Dunnichen,  the  revolted  Picts  de- 
feated and  slew  Ecgfrid,  the  Northumbrian  king,  re- 
covering thus  their  independence,  20  JMay  685.  Their 
victory  nas  left  its  vestiges  in  stone-coverod  graves,  with 
urns  and  human  bones,  both  on  the  East  Mains  of  Dun- 
nichen and  in  a  round  gravel  knoll  near  the  Den  of 
Letham.  Dunnichen  House,  near  the  ^illage,  at  the 
foot  of  the  southern  slojie  of  Dunnichen  Hill,  is  a  fine 
mansion,  beautifully  embosomed  in  trees  ;  the  estate, 
purchased  about  1700  by  a  Dundee  merchant  of  tlie  name 
of  Dempster,  was  greatly  improved  by  the  eminent  agri- 
culturist, 'honest  George  Dempster,' M. P.  Q735-1818), 


DTTNNIDEER 

and  now  is  held  by  Lady  Dempster-Metcalfe  (sue.  1875), 
who  owns  3970  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £4868  per 
annum.  Two  other  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  more,  and  two  of  less,  than  £750  ;  and  there 
are,  besides,  a  number  of  small  feuars.  Dunnichen 
is  in  the  presbytery  of  Forfar  and  synod  of  Angus 
and  Mearns  ;  the  living  is  worth  £204.  The  parish 
church  (1802 ;  456  sittings)  stands  at  Dunnichen 
village,  and  at  Letham  are  Free  and  Congregational 
churches  ;  whilst  three  public  schools — Craichie,  Letham 
infant,  and  Letham  mLxed — with  respective  accommo- 
dation for  100,  95,  and  200  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  66,  62,  and  92,  and  grants  of 
£54,  4s.,  £46,  4s.,  and  £97,  ISs.  Valuation  (1882) 
£8421,  10s.  lid.,  plus  £472  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801) 
1043,  (1831)  1513,  (1861)  1932,  (1871)  1536,  (1881) 
1422.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  57,  1868. 

Dmmideer,  an  isolated  hill  in  Insch  parish,  Aber- 
deenshire, 1^  mile  W  of  Insch  village.  Separated  only 
by  the  narrow  vale  of  the  Shevock  rivulet  from  Christ's 
Kirk  Hill  (1020  feet)  in  Kennethmont  parish,  and  stand- 
ing nearly  in  a  line  with  the  W  end  of  Foudland  (1529) 
3  J  miles  to  the  N,  it  rises  abruptly  in  the  form  of  a  cone, 
a  little  flattened  at  the  top,  to  a  height  of  876  feet  above 
sea-level,  or  470  above  the  village.  It  is  crowned  by 
remains  of  a  vitrified  fort,  and  by  the  fragment  of  an 
ancient  tower,  -uith  walls  7  feet  thick  and  from  50  to 
■60  feet  high,  variously  alleged  to  have  been  built  either 
by  Grig  or  Girig,  King  of  the  Picts,  or  by  David,  Earl 
■of  Huntingdon. 

Dunnikier,  a  mansion  in  Kirkcaldy  parish,  Fife,  3 
miles  N  of  Kirkcaldy  town.  The  estate,,  comprising 
much  of  the  seaboard  of  Dysart  parish  and  about 
seven-eighths  of  the  landward  part,  of  Kirkcaldy,  has 
belonged  since  the  close  of  the  17th  century  to  the 
Oswalds,  a  family  that  has  produced  an  eminent  states- 
man and  a  distinguished  general  in  the  Right  Hon. 
James  Oswald  (c.  1715-80)  and  Sir  John  Oswald,  G.C.  B. 
(c.  1770-1840).  The  son  and  successor  of  the  latter, 
James  Townsend  Oswald,  Esq.  (b.  1820),  holds  1623 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £4672  per  annum,  in- 
cluding £466  for  coal.     See  Kiekcaldy. 

Dunnikier,  a  hill  in  Kilconquhar  parish,  Fife,  3J 
miles  NNW  of  Colinsburgh.  It  rises  to  an  altitude 
of  750  feet  above  sea-level,  and  commands  an  extensive 
and  very  brilliant  view  over  much  of  Fife,  and  over 
parts  of  the  Firths  of  Forth  and  Tay,  to  the  Lammer- 
muirs,  the  Sidlaws,  and  the  Grampians. 

Diinninald  House,  a  mansion  of  1825  in  Craig  parish, 
Forfarshire,  ^  mile  from  the  lofty  sea-cliffs  of  Boddin 
and  3  miles  S  by  "W  of  Montrose.  The  estate  (663  acres, 
of  £2281  annual  value)  is  the  property  of  the  daughters 
of  co-heiresses  of  the  late  Patrick  Arkley,  Esq., — Mary 
Charlotte  Smyth  and  Eliza  Stansfeld.     See  Craig. 

Dunning  (Gael,  dunan,  'small  fort'),  a  village  and  a 
parish  of  Lower  Stratheam,  SE  Perthshire.  The  vil- 
lage stands,  200  feet  above  sea-level,  on  Dunning  Burn, 
near  the  northern  base  of  the  Ochils,  If  mile  SE  of 
Dunning  station  on  the  Scottish  Central  section  of  the 
Caledonian,  this  being  4^  miles  NE  of  Auchterarder, 
23|  NE  of  Stirling,  60^  NNAV  of  Edinburgh,  53^  NE 
of  Glasgow,  and  94  "WSW  of  Perth,  under  Avhich  Dun- 
ning has  a  post  ofl&ce,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank, 
and  railway  telegraph  departments.  Burned  by  Mar's 
forces  in  the  retreat  from  Sheriflmuir  to  Perth,  with  the 
exception  of  a  single  house,  on  14  Nov.  1715,  it  now  is 
a  neat  little  place,  held  in  feu  of  Lord  Rollo,  under  a 
baron-bailie  ;  and  possesses  a  branch  of  the  Union  Bank, 
a  local  saWngs'  bank,  an  hotel,  gas-works,  a  town-hall, 
a  library  and  reading-room,  a  mutual  improvement 
society  (1858),  bowling  and  curling  clubs,  and  a  bread 
society.  A  thorn-tree,  planted  to  commemorate  its  burn- 
ing by  the  Jacobites,  and  protected  by  a  strong  circular 
wall,  still  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  village.  Wednes- 
day is  market-day  ;  and  fairs  are  held  on  the  last  Tues- 
day of  April,  20  June,  and  the  Monday  before  the  first 
Tuesday  of  October.  The  parish  church  contains  1000 
sittings,  as  rebuilt  and  enlarged  in  1810,  when  only  the 
tower  was  spared   of  the  Norman  church  of  St  Serf, 


DUNNOTTAS 

built  in  the  beginning  of  the  13th  century.  This,  with 
its  saddle-roof  and  SW  stair-turret,  is  a  very  character- 
istic structure,  tapering  upwards  in  three  unequal 
stages  to  a  lieight  of  75  feet.  In  the  course  of  recent 
repairs,  a  fine  Norman  arch  between  the  tower  and  the 
interior  of  the  church,  which  had  been  barbarously 
bricked  up  and  disfigured,  was  reopened  and  restored. 
There  are  also  a  Free  church  and  a  U.  P.  church  ;  whilst  a 
public  and  an  infant  and  industrial  school,  with  respec- 
tive accommodation  for  241  and  68  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  116  and  60,  and  grants  of 
£86,  8s.  and  £50,  6s.  Pop.  (1841)  1068,  (1861)  1105, 
(1871)943,  (1881)1113. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  of  Newton  of 
Pitcaims,  is  bounded  N  by  Findo-Gask,  NE  by  For- 
teviot,  E  and  SE  by  Forgandenny,  S  by  Orwell  in 
Kinross  and  by  Fossoway,  SW  by  Glendevon,  and  W 
by  Auchterarder.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is 
6|  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  2J 
and  5^  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  14,928  acres,  of  which  IS  J 
lie  detached,  and  73  are  water.  The  Earn,  here  wind- 
ing 3 J  miles  eastward,  roughly  traces  all  the  northern 
boundary,  and  here  receives  Dunning  Burn,  running  3^ 
miles  north-by-eastward  over  a  gravelly  bed ;  another 
of  its  affluents,  the  Water  of  May,  rises  on  the  eastern 
slope  of  John's  Hill,  at  the  SW  corner  of  the  parish, 
and  thence  flows  4|  miles  eastward  and  north-eastward 
through  the  southern  interior  and  along  the  Forgan- 
denny border,  till  it  passes  off  into  Forgandenny.  In 
the  W  is  triangular  White  Moss  Loch  (If  x  1^  furl. ), 
and  in  the  E  the  tinier  Loch  of  Montalt  (1  x  ^  furl.). 
Sinking  in  the  NE  along  the  Earn  to  34  feet  above  the 
sea,  the  surface  rises  southward  to  the  green  pastoral 
Ochils,  and,  tolerably  level  over  its  northern  half,  attains 
193  feet  near  3Iains  of  Duncrub,  171  near  Nether  Gar- 
vock,  1064  at  Rossie  Law,  932  near  Montalt,  1419  at 
Simpleside  Hill,  1302  at  Skymore  Hill,  1337  at  Cock 
Law,  1558  at  Corb  Law,  and  1500  at  John's  Hill,  the 
two  last  culminating  on  the  Auchterarder  border.  Trap 
rock  prevails  in  the  S,  sandstone  throughout  the  centre 
and  the  N ;  and  both  have  been  quarried.  The  soil  is  light 
and  sandy  along  the  Earn,  clay  or  gravel  in  other  arable 
tracts,  and  on  the  Ochils  such  as  to  jield  good  pasturage 
for  sheep.  A  fort  is  on  Rossie  Law,  a  standing  stone 
near  Crofts  ;  and  urns  have  been  found  and  pieces  of 
ancient  armour.  Mansions  are  Duncrub  House,  Gar- 
vock,  Pitcairn,  Inverdunning,  and  Kippen  ;  and  5  pro- 
prietors hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards, 
7  of  between  £100  and  £500,  5  of  from  £50  to  £100, 
and  15  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Dunning  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Auchterarder  and  synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £415.  Valuation  (1882)  £13,886, 
Is.  3d.  Pop.  (ISOl)  1504,  (1831)  2045,  (1861)  2084, 
(1871)  1832,  (1881)  1635,  this  singular  decrease  in  the 
landward  part  of  the  parish  being  due  to  the  absorption 
of  small  farms  into  large. — Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  40,  39, 
48,  47,  1867-69. 

Dunnottsir  (anc.  Dunfoither ;  Gncl.  dun-oitir,  'fort  of 
the  low  promontory  '),  a  coast  parish  of  Kincardineshire, 
containing  the  fishing  village  of  CraT\-ton  and  all  the  old 
town  of  Stonehaven.  It  is  bounded  NW  and  N  by 
Fetteresso,  E  by  the  German  Ocean,  S  by  Kinneff,  and 
SW  by  Arbuthnott  and  Glenbervie.  Rudely  resembling 
a  triangle  in  outline,  with  westward  apex,  it  has  an 
utmost  length  from  E  to  W  of  5  miles,  an  utmost 
breadth  from  N  to  S  of  3f  miles,  and  an  area  of  7884§ 
acres,  of  which  16  are  foreshore  and  86  water.  The 
coast  is  rock-bound  and  precipitous,  consisting  partly 
of  detached  masses  and  headlands,  but  chiefly  of  a 
range  of  cliffs  rising  to  heights  of  100  and  200  feet 
above  the  deep  water  that  washes  their  base.  In  its 
loftiest  portion  for  about  a  mile  it  presents  an  un- 
broken wall-like  face,  thronged  with  sea-birds,  and  hence 
called  Fowlsheugh  ;  elsewhere  it  exhibits  fantastic  forms 
of  isolated  or  creviced  rock,  several  large  caverns  and 
rock-tunnels,  and  a  natural  arcade  more  than  150  yards 
long,  through  the  base  of  a  high  promontory,  which 
may  be  traversed  by  an  ordinary-sized  boat.  The  sea 
can  be  gained  from  the  land  only  by  a  few  narrow  grassy 

441 


DUNNOTTAR  CASTLE 

ileclivities  that  lead  down  to  coves  or  baylets,  fenced  by 
sunken  rocks  against  access  by  ships  or  large  boats. 
Carron  "Water  winds  6:^  miles  east-by-northward  along 
all  the  boundary  with  Fetteresso  ;  and  the  northern 
division  of  the  jiarish  along  its  bank  forms  the  eastern 
end  of  the  Howe  of  Mearns — the  eastern  commencement, 
that  is,  of  the  great  hollow  which  extends  diagonally 
across  Scotland,  and  bears  in  Forfarshire  and  Perthshire 
the  name  of  Strathmore.  Otherwise  the  surface  has  a 
general  westward  or  west-south-westward  ascent,  to  433 
feet  near  Kittlenaked,  492  at  Law  of  Lumgair,  638  at 
Cloch-na  Hill,  and  700  near  Camiont  on  the  Glenbervie 
border.  The  predominant  rock  is  sandstone  conglome- 
rate, containing  nodules  of  quartz  and  limestone  ;  whilst 
porphyritic  granite  forms  a  stratum  at  Carmont.  Granite 
and  gneiss  boulders  are  not  unfrequent ;  columnar  basalt 
forms  part  of  a  ledge  of  rock  at  Grawton  ;  and  a  build- 
ing-stone, known  locally  as  '  red  craig,'  has  been  quarried 
on  a  sandstone  cliff  above  Stonehaven  Harbour.  The 
soils  are  variously  clayey,  loamy,  gravelly,  and  moorish  ; 
and  they  occur,  not  in  separate  e.xpanses  or  in  strictly 
distinguishable  sections,  but  mixedly  in  all  parts  of  the 
parish,  and  often  on  one  farm  or  even  in  one  field. 
About  three-fifths  of  the  entire  area  are  under  cultiva- 
tion, rather  more  than  one-fifth  is  hUl  pasture  or  moor, 
and  fully  one-twelfth  is  under  wood.  Dunxottar 
Castle  is  the  chief  antiquity,  others  being  a  cairn  at 
Carmont  and  a  '  Pict's  kiln '  on  Lumgair  Law.  Barras, 
the  seat  once  of  a  branch  of  the  Ogilvies,  3i  miles  SSW 
of  Stonehaven,  is  now  a  ruin  ;  and  the  principal  man- 
sion is  Dunnottar  House,  1  mile  SW  of  Stonehaven, 
which,  built  about  1802,  is  a  plain  but  large  edifice, 
with  gardens  formed  at  a  cost  of  £10,000  and  upwards. 
Its  owner,  William  Nathaniel  Forbes,  Esq.  (b.  1826  ; 
sue.  1851),  holds  6528  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at 
£5494  per  annum  ;  and  2  other  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  £600  and  upwards,  2  of  between  £100 
and  £500,  2  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  20  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Dunnottar  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Fordoun  and 
sjTiod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the  living  is  worth  £308. 
The  parish  church  stands  by  the  Carron,  1  mile  WSW 
of  Stonehaven,  and  was  built  in  1782  on  the  site  of  the 
church  of  St  Bridget ;  in  its  graveyard  is  a  stone  to  the 
Covenanters  who  perished  in  the  Castle,  and  here  it  was 
that  in  1793  Scott  met  Robert  Paterson  or  '  Old  ilor- 
tality.'  Backmuirhill  and  Dunnottar  public  schools, 
^^•ith  respective  accommodation  for  94  and  212  children, 
liad  (18»0)  an  average  attendance  of  51  and  209,  and 
grants  of  £46,  15s.  and  £158,  2s.  lid.  Valuation  (1856) 
£8294  ;  (1882)  £12,078,  8s.  Id.,  plus  £1384  for  railway. 
Pop.  (1801)  1973, (1831) 1852, (1861) 1828,(1871)2102, 
(1881)  2498.— 0/-d  Sur.,  sh.  67,  1871. 

Dtumottar  Castle,  a  ruined  fortress  on  the  coast  of 
Dunnottar  parish,  IJ  mile  S  by  E  of  Stonehaven.  It 
crowns  the  flat  summit,  4^  acres  in  extent,  of  a  stupen- 
dous rock,  which,  somewhat  resembling  that  of  Edin- 
burgh Castle,  is  all  but  severed  from  the  mainland  by  a 
chasm,  and  on  all  other  sides  rises  sheer  from  the  sea  to 
a  height  of  160  feet.  The  ancient  capital  of  the  Mearns, 
this  natural  stronghold  figures  early  in  history,  for,  in 
681,  we  hear  of  the  siege  of  '  Dunfoithir'  by  Bruidhe, 
King  of  the  Picts,  and,  in  894,  of  a  second  siege  under 
Turan,  his  successor.  Then,  in  900,  Donald,  King  of 
Alban,  was  cut  off  liere  and  slain  by  the  Danes  ;  and,  in 
934,  Aethelstan,  ravaging  Scotland  with  his  land  forces, 
penetrated  so  far  as  Dunnottar.  Of  much  lafcer  date, 
however,  is  the  present  castle,  which,  from  its  situation 
and  extent,  forms  one  of  the  most  majestic  ruins  in  the 
kingdom,  and  which,  prior  to  the  era  of  artillery,  must 
have  been  well-nigh  impregnable.  The  only  approach  to 
it  is  by  a  steep  path  winding  round  the  body  of  the  rock, 
which  has  been  scarped  and  rendered  inaccessible  by 
art.  The  entrance  is  through  a  gate,  in  a  wall  about  40 
feet  high  ;  whence,  by  a  long  passage,  partly  arched 
over,  and  through  another  gate  pierced  with  four  ccilettes 
or  loop-holes,  the  area  of  tlie  castle  is  reached.  This 
passage  was  formerly  strengthened  by  two  iron  portcul- 
lises. The  area  is  surrounded  by  an  embattled  wall, 
and  occupied  by  buildings  of  very  different  ages,  which, 
442 


DUNRDTTAR  CASTLE 

though  dismantled,  are,  for  the  most  part,  tolerably 
entire,  wanting  but  roofs  and  floors.  The  oldest,  with 
the  exception  of  the  chapel,  is  a  square  tower  said  to 
have  been  built  towards  the  close  of  the  14th  century. 
A  large  range  of  lodging-rooms  and  offices,  with  a  long 
gallery  of  120  feet,  appears  to  be  comparatively  modern 
— not  older  than  the  latter  end  of  the  16th  century. 
There  are  ruins  of  various  other  buildings  and  conveni- 
ences necessary  or  proper  for  a  garrison,  such  as  barracks, 
a  basin  or  cistern  of  water  20  feet  in  diameter,  a  bowling- 
green,  and  a  forge  said  to  have  been  used  for  casting 
iron  bullets.  The  building  now  called  the  chapel  was  at 
one  time  the  parish  church  ;  for,  notwithstanding  its 
difficulty  of  access,  the  church,  and  even  the  churchyard 
of  the  parish,  were  originally  situated  on  this  rock.  Sir 
William  Keith,  Great  Marischal  of  Scotland,  made  an  ex- 
cambion  of  certain  lands  in  the  counties  of  Fife  and  Stir- 
ling with  William  de  Lindsay,  Lord  of  the  BjTes,  for  part 
of  the  lands  of  Dunnottar ;  and  tlie  natural  strength  of  its 
rock  led  him  to  build  a  castle  on  it  as  a  refuge  for 
himself  and  his  friends  during  those  troublous  times. 
But,  to  avoid  offence,  he  first  built  a  church  for  the 
parish  in  a  more  convenient  place  ;  notwithstanding 
which,  the  Bishop  of  St  Andrews  excommunicated  him 
for  violation  of  sacred  ground.  Sir  William,  on  this, 
applied  to  Pope  Benedict  XIII.,  setting  forth  the  exi- 
gency of  the  case,  and  the  necessity  of  such  a  fortress, 
with  the  circumstance  of  his  having  built  another 
church  ;  on  which  his  holiness  issueil  a  bull,  dated  18 
July  1394,  directing  the  bishop  to  take  off  the  excom- 
munication, and  to  allow  Sir  William  to  enjoy  the 
castle  at  all  times,  on  the  pa}Tnent  of  a  certain  recom- 
pense to  the  church  ;  after  which  it  continued  in  the 
Keith  family  till  the  forfeiture  of  the  last  Earl  in  1716. 

Prior  to  this,  however,  a  castle  of  Dunnottar  is  said 
to  have  been  taken  about  1296  by  Sir  William  Wallace, 
who  burned  4000  Englishmen  in  it.  Blind  Harry  gives 
the  following  lively  account  of  this  achievement : — 

'The  Eug^lishmen,  that  durst  them  not  abide. 
Before  the  host  full  fear'dly  forth  they  flee 
To  Dunnotter,  a  swako  within  the  sea. 
No  further  they  might  win  out  of  the  land. 
They  'sembled  there  while  they  were  four  thousand. 
Ran  to  the  kirk,  ween'd  girth  to  have  tane, 
The  lave  reraain'd  upon  the  rock  of  staue. 
The  bishop  there  began  to  treaty  ma, 
Their  lives  to  get,  out  of  the  land  to  ga ; 
But  they  were  rude,  and  durst  not  well. 
Wallace  in  fire  gart  set  all  hastily, 
Burnt  up  the  kirk  and  all  that  was  therein. 
Attour  the  rock  the  lave  ran  with  great  diu  ; 
Some  hung  on  crags,  right  dolefully  to  dee, 
Some  lap,  some  fell,  some  fluttered  in  the  sea. 
No  Southern  in  life  was  left  in  that  hold, 
And  them  within  they  burnt  to  powder  cold. 
When  this  was  done,  fell  fell  on  their  knees  down, 
At  the  bishop  asked  absolution. 
When  Wallace  leugh,  said,  I  forgive  j-ou  all ; 
Are  ye  war-men,  repent  ye  for  so  small  ? 
They  rued  not  us  into  the  town  of  Air, 
Our  true  barons  when  they  hanged  there  ! ' 

In  1336,  too,  we  hear  of  the  castle  of  Dunnottar  being 
refortified  by  Edward  III.  in  his  progress  through  Scot- 
land ;  but  scarce  had  he  quitted  the  kingdom  when  it 
was  retaken  by  Sir  Andrew  Moray,  the  Regent  of  Scot- 
land. No  further  event  of  historic  interest  occurred  for 
man}'  centuries  afterwards,  during  which  it  was  the 
chief  seat  of  the  Marischal  family.  But,  in  the  time  of  the 
Great  Rebellion  it  was  besieged  by  the  Marquis  of  Mon- 
trose, the  Earl  Marischal  of  that  day  being  a  stanch 
Covenanter.  The  Earl  had  immured  himself  in  his 
castle,  along  with  many  of  his  partisans,  including  16 
Covenanting  clergymen  who  had  here  sought  refuge 
from  Montrose.  The  Earl  would  have  come  to  terms 
but  for  this  ministerial  party,  and  the  Marquis  at  onco 
subjected  his  property  to  military  execution.  Stone- 
liaven  and  Cowie,  which  belonged  to  the  vassals  of  the 
Earl  Marischal,  were  burned  ;  the  woods  of  Fetteresso 
shared  the  same  fate  ;  and  the  whole  of  the  lands  in  the 
vicinity  were  ravaged.  Tlie  Earl  is  said  to  have  deeply 
regretted  liis  rejection  of  Montrose's  terms,  when  he 
beheld  the  smoke  ascending  from  his  property  ;  '  but 
the  famous  Andrew  Cant,  who  was  among  the  number 


DUNOLLY 

of  his  ghostly  company,  edified  his  resolution  at  once 
to  its  original  pitch  of  iirmness,  by  assuring  him  that 
that  reek  would  be  a  sweet-smelling  incense  in  the 
nostrils  of  the  Lord,  rising,  as  it  did,  from  property 
which  had  been  sacrificed  to  the  holy  cause  of  the 
Covenant.' 

At  Dunnottar  Castle,  in  1650,  William,  seventh  Earl 
Marischal,  entertained  Charles  II.  ;  and  in  the  following 
year  it  was  selected  by  the  Scots  Estates  and  Privy 
Council  as  the  strongest  place  in  the  kingdom  for  the 
preservation  of  the  regalia  from  the  Englisli  army, 
which  then  overran  the  country.  These  being  here 
deposited,  the  Earl  obtained  a  garrison,  with  an  order 
for  suitable  ammunition  and  provisions.  Cromwell's 
troops,  under  command  of  Lambert,  besieged  the  castle, 
which  was  put  under  command  of  George  Ogilvy  of 
Barras,  in  the  parish  of  Dunnottar,  as  lieutenant- 
governor  ;  the  Earl  himself  having  joined  the  king's 
forces  in  England.  Ogilvy  did  not  surrender  until  the 
siege  had  been  converted  into  a  blockade,  when  he  was 
reduced  by  famine  and  a  consequent  mutiny  in  the  gar- 
rison. He  had  previously,  however,  removed  the 
regalia  by  a  stratagem  on  account  of  which  he  was 
long  imprisoned  in  England.  Mrs  Granger,  wife  of 
the  minister  of  Kinneff,  had  requested  permission  of 
Major-General  Morgan,  who  then  commanded  the  be- 
sieging army,  to  visit  Mrs  Ogilvy,  the  lady  of  the 
Lieutenant-Governor.  Having  gained  admission,  she 
packed  up  the  crown  among  some  clothes,  and  carried  it 
out  of  the  castle  in  her  lap,  whilst  the  sword  and 
sceptre  seemed  to  have  formed  a  sort  of  distaff  for  a 
mass  of  lint  which,  like  a  thrifty  Scots  matron,  she 
was  busily  spinning  into  thread.  The  English  general 
very  politely  assisted  the  lady  to  mount  her  horse  ;  and 
her  husband  that  night  buried  the  regalia  under  the 
flags  of  his  church,  where  they  remained  till  the  Restor- 
ation, in  1660,  when  they  were  delivered  to  Mr  George 
Ogilvy,  who  presented  them  to  Charles  II.  For  this 
good  service,  with  his  long  imprisonment  and  loss  of 
property,  Ogilvy  received  no  farther  mark  of  royal 
favour  or  reward  than  the  title  of  Baronet  and  a  new 
coat-of-arms.  Sir  John  Keith,  brother  to  the  Earl 
Marischal,  was  created  Earl  of  Kintore  ;  but  honest  Mr 
Granger  and  his  wife  had  neither  honour  nor  reward. 

Dunnottar  was  used,  in  the  year  1685,  from  early  in 
May  till  towards  the  end  of  July,  as  a  state  prison  for 
167  Covenanters,  men  and  women,  who  had  been  seized 
at  different  times  in  the  W  of  Scotland,  during  the  per- 
secution under  Charles  II.  In  the  warmest  season  of 
the  year  they  were  all  barbarously  thrust  into  a  vault, 
still  called  'The  Whigs'  Vault,'  where  9  of  them  died. 
About  25,  in  a  state  of  desperation,  crept  one  night  from 
the  window,  along  the  face  of  the  awful  precipice,  in  the 
hope  of  escaping  ;  but  two  of  these  perished  in  the 
attempt,  and  most  of  the  others  were  captured,  and 
subjected  to  horrible  tortures.  In  1720  the  dilapidated 
estate  of  George,  tenth  Earl,  was  sold  to  the  York 
Building  Company  for  £41,172,  and  Dunnottar  Castle 
dismantled  ;  but  in  1761  the  Earl  repurchased  it,  to 
sell  it,  however,  in  1766,  to  Alexander  Keith,  writer  in 
Edinburgh,  who,  as  exercising  the  office  of  Knight- 
Marischal  of  Scotland  in  1822,  was  created  a  Baronet  by 
George  IV.  Dunnottar  went  to  his  daughter,  and,  at 
her  death  in  1852,  to  her  son.  Sir  Patrick  Keith-Murray 
of  Ochtertyre,  with  whom  it  remained  till  1875,  when  it 
Avas  purchased  by  Alexander  Innes,  Esq.  of  Raemoir 
and  Cowie.  See  James  Napier's  Stonehaven  and  its 
Historical  Associations,  being  a  Guide  to  Dunnottar 
Castle,  etc.  (Stoneh.  1870). 

Dunolly,  an  estate,  with  an  ancient  castle  and  a 
modem  mansion,  in  Kilmore  and  Kilbride  parish, 
Argyllshire.  The  ancient  castle,  crowning  a  precipitous 
rocky  promontory  between  Oban  Bay  and  the  mouth 
of  Loch  Etive,  9  furlongs  NNW  of  Oban  town,  is  be- 
lieved to  have  taken  its  name,  signifying  '  the  fortified 
hill  of  Olaf,'  from  some  ancient  Scandinavian  prince  or 
king ;  and  occupies  a  romantic  site,  well  adapted  by  its 
natural  character  for  military  defence.  Originally  per- 
haps a  rude  fortalice,  altered  or  extended  in  the  course 


DUNOON 

of  centuries  into  a  strong  castle,  it  dates  in  record 
so  early  as  the  7th  century,  but  retains  no  masonry 
earlier  than  the  latter  part  of  the  12th  ;  as  long  the 
principal  seat  of  the  Macdougalls,  Lords  of  Lorn,  figures 
boldly  in  old  history  and  in  curious  legend  ;  and  is 
now  a  gloomy,  lonely,  fragmentary  ruin.  '  The  prin- 
cipal part  of  it  which  remains,'  says  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
'  is  the  donjon  or  keep  ;  but  fragments  of  other  build- 
ings, overgrown  with  ivy,  attest  that  it  had  once  been 
a  place  of  importance,  as  large  apparently  as  Artornish 
or  DunstaS"nage.  These  fragments  enclose  a  courtyard, 
of  which  the  keep  probably  formed  one  side,  the  en- 
trance being  by  a  steep  ascent  from  the  neck  of  the 
isthmus,  formerly  cut  across  by  a  moat,  and  defended 
doubtless  by  outworks  and  a  drawbridge.'  An  eagle, 
kept  chained  within  the  rrin,  was  seen  by  the  poet 
Wordsworth  in  1831,  and  forms  the  subject  of  a  stinging 
sonnet  from  his  pen.  A  stalactite  cavern  was  acci- 
dentally discovered,  about  1830,  in  what  long  had  been 
garden  ground  contiguous  to  the  base  of  the  castle  rock  ; 
was  ascertained  to  have  had  an  entrance  which  had 
been  blocked  by  a  wall ;  and  was  found  to  contain  many 
human  bones,  some  bones  of  several  of  the  lower  animals, 
pieces  of  iron,  remains  of  broadswoi'ds,  and  a  few  defaced 
coins.  Thomas  Brydson,  in  his  Pictures  of  the  Past, 
says  respecting  Dunolly  Castle — 

'  The  breezes  of  this  vernal  day 

Come  whisp'ring  through  thine  empty  hall, 
And  stir,  instead  of  tapestry, 
The  weed  upon  the  wall, 

'  And  bring  from  out  the  murm'ring  sea. 
And  bring  from  out  the  vocal  wood, 
The  sound  of  Nature's  joy  to  thee, 
Mocking  thy  solitude. 

'  Yet  proudly,  'mid  the  tide  of  years. 
Thou  lift'st  on  high  thine  airy  form. 
Scene  of  primeval  hopes  and  fears. 
Slow  yielding  to  the  storm  ! 

'  From  thy  grey  portal,  oft  at  morn, 
The  ladies  and  the  squires  would  go ; 
While  swell'd  the  hunter's  bugle-horn 
In  the  green  glen  below ; 

'  And  minstrel  harp,  at  starry  night. 
Woke  the  high  strain  of  battle  here. 
When,  with  a  wild  and  stern  delight. 
The  warriors  stooped  to  hear. 

"  All  fled  for  ever  !  leaving  nought 
Save  lonely  walls  in  ruin  green, 
Which  dimly  lead  my  wandering  thought 
To  moments  that  have  been.' 

Modern  Dunolly  Castle,  a  little  to  the  N,  is  a  fine 
edifice,  embosomed  among  wood,  and  contains  the 
famous  Brooch  of  Lorn,  taken  from  Robert  Bruce  in 
the  skirmish  of  Dairy,  with  several  other  curious  relics 
of  antiquity.  The  estate  belonged  to  the  Macdougalls 
from  very  early  times  ;  was  forfeited  for  participation 
in  the  '15,  but  restored  just  before  the  outbreak  of  the 
'45  ;  and  now  is  held  by  Lieut. -Col.  Charles  Allan  Mac- 
Dougall  of  MacDougall.(b.  1831  ;  sue.  1867),  who  owns 
3339  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1302  per  annum. 
One  of  its  proprietors  fell  in  the  Peninsular  Campaign  ; 
another,  in  1842,  steered  the  barge  of  Queen  Victoria 
through  Loch  Tay,  in  her  progress  from  Taymouth  to 
Drummond  Castle. 

Dunoon,  a  favourite  watering-place  and  a  parish  of 
Cowal  district,  Argyllshire.  The  town  extends  more  than 
3  miles  along  the  western  shore  of  the  Firth  of  Clyde, 
from  the  entrance  of  Holy  Loch  south-south-westward 
to  beyond  West  or  Balgay  Bay,  and  consists  of  Hunter's 
Quay  to  the  N,  Kirn,  and  Dunoon  proper  to  the  S.  Each 
has  its  separate  steamboat  pier,  that  of  Hunter's  Quay 
being  6  miles  WNW  of  Greenock  and  f  mile  N  of  Kirn's, 
which  is  1  mile  NNE  of  Dunoon's,  which  again  is  If  mile 
W  by  N  of  Cloch  Lighthouse,  11  miles  NNW  of  Largs, 
and  11  NNE  of  Rothesay.  Old  Dunoon  arose  beneath 
the  shadow  of  an  ancient  castle,  which,  crowning  a  small 
rocky  headland  between  the  East  and  West  Bays,  is 
supposed  by  some  antiquaries  to  have  been  founded  by 
dim  Dalriadic  chieftains  in  the  early  years  of  the  6th 

443 


DUNOON 

century,  ami  later  to  have  been  held  by  Scandinavian 
rovers.  However  that  may  be,  from  the  reign  of  Mal- 
colm Ceannmor  (1058-93)  this  castle  was  the  seat  of  the 
Lord  High  Stewards  of  Scotland,  on  the  accession  of 
the  sixth  of  whom,  Robert,  to  the  throne  in  1370,  it 
became  a  royal  palace,  under  the  hereditary  keepershi}i 
of  the  Campbells  of  Lochow,  ancestors  of  the  Duke  of 
Argyll.  By  royal  charter  of  1472  Colin,  Earl  of  Argyll, 
Lome,  and  Cami^bell,  obtained  for  himself  certain  lands 
around  the  Castle  of  Dunoon,  which  in  1544  was  be- 
sieged and  taken  by  Lennox,  the  would-be  regent,  and 
on  26  July  1563  received  a  visit  from  Mary  Queen  of 
Scots.  In  1646  it  was  the  scene  of  a  cruel  atrocity 
wrought  by  the  Campbells  on  the  Laments  of  Cowal 
and  Bute,  thirty-six  of  whom  were  most  traitorously 
carried  from  the  houses  of  Escog  and  Castle-Toward  to 
the  village  of  Dunoon,  and  there  were  hanged  on  an 
ash-tree  at  the  kirkyard.  'Insomuch  that  the  Lord 
from  heaven  did  declare  his  wrath  and  displeasure  by 
striking  the  said  tree  immediately  thereafter,  so  that 
the  whole  leaves  fell  from  it,  and  the  tree  %vithered, 
which  being  cut  down  there  sprang  out  of  the  very  heart 
of  the  root  thereof  a  spring  like  unto  blood,  popling  up, 
and  that  for  several  years,  till  the  said  murderers  or 
their  favourers  did  cause  howk  out  the  root.'  Hence- 
forward the  castle,  which  seems  to  have  covered  an  acre 
of  ground,  and  to  have  had  three  towers,  was  left  to 
utter  neglect,  its  stones  abstracted  for  neighbouring 
cottages,  so  that  now  its  bare  outline  can  hardly  be 
traced,  though  the  greensward  of  course  is  imagined  to 
cover  a  perfect  labyrinth  of  vaults.  Hard  by,  on  the 
site  now  occupied  by  the  parish  church,  stood  the  castle 
chapel — a  nunnery  in  popular  belief ;  and  also  near  were 
the  butts  or  cuspars,  the  gallows'  hill,  and  a  moat-hill 
(Gael.  Tom-a-inlioid).  As  the  castle  decayed,  so  too 
decayed  the  village  of  Dunoon,  in  spite  of  its  being  the 
regular  ferry  between  Cowal  and  Renfrewshire  and  an 
occasional  resort  of  invalids  for  the  beneiit  of  drinking 
goat's  whey.  The  year  1822  found  it  a  Highland 
clachan,  with  a  church,  a  manse,  three  or  four  slated 
cottages,  and  a  sprinkling  of  thatched  cottages  or  huts. 
But  in  that  year  the  late  James  Ewing,  Esq.,  LL. D., 
purchased  a  feu  here,  and  buUt  thereon  the  handsome 
marine  villa  called,  from  the  neighbouring  castle,  Castle 
House  ;  and  it  was  not  long  before  others  followed  his 
lead,  steam  navigation  having  by  this  time  brought 
Dunoon  •within  comparatively  easy  reach  of  Glasgow. 
Fringing  the  sweeping  curves  of  East  and  West — or 
Milton  and  Balgay — Bays,  modern  Dunoon  stands  partly 
on  the  low  platform  of  the  Firth's  old  sea-margin,  partly 
on  gentle  ascents,  with  immediate  background  of  broken, 
heather-clad  braes,  and,  beyond,  of  the  Cowal  heights. 
The  whole  exhibits  a  charming  indifference  to  town-like 
regularity,  villas  and  cots  being  blended  with  gardens 
and  trees ;  sea,  wood,  and  mountain  being  all  within 
easy  access ;  and  the  views  of  the  Clyde  and  its  basin 
being  wide  as  they  are  lovely,  from  the  Castle  Hill 
embracing  parts  of  the  five  shires  of  Renfrew,  Dum- 
barton, Ayr,  Argyll,  and  Bute.  Good  bathing-ground 
occurs  at  Balgay  Bay  ;  boats  may  be  had  for  hire  ;  and 
the  excursions  alike  by  land  and  by  water  comprise  not 
a  little  of  Scotland's  fairest  scenery. 

To  descend  to  details,  the  town  has  two  post  offices  of 
Dunoon  and  Kirn,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank, 
and  telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the  Clydesdale 
and  Union  Banks,  21  insurance  agencies,  10  hotels,  a 
gas  company,  an  excellent  water  supply,  fed  by  a  reser- 
voir with  storage  capacity  of  45,000,000  gallons,  agricul- 
tural and  horticultural  societies,  a  capital  bowling-green, 
fairs  on  the  third  Thursday  of  January  and  February, 
and  three  weekly  papers — the  Independent  Saturday 
Argijllshire  Standard  (18"0),  the  Independent  Wednes- 
day Coival  Watchman  (1876),  and  tlie  Liberal  Saturday 
Dunoon  Herald  and  Cowal  Advertiser  (1876).  Tlie 
Burgh  Buildings,  erected  in  1873-74  at  a  cost  of  £4000, 
are  a  two-storied  Scottish  Baronial  pile,  and  contain  the 
municipal  offices,  with  a  hall  that,  measuring  73^  by 
35A  feet,  can  accommodate  500  persons,  and  is  adorned 
with  a  stained-glass  window.  A  fine  stone  edifice, 
444 


DUNOON 

Romanesque  in  style,  and  originally  erected  at  a  cost  of 
£11,000  for  a  hydropathic  establishment,  was,  thanks 
to  Miss  Beatrice  Clugston  of  Leuzie,  opened  in  1S69  as 
the  West  of  Scotland  Convalescent  Sea-side  Homes. 
Fitted  with  splendid  baths,  and  accommodating  150 
inmates,  as  enlarged  by  a  new  wing  in  1880  at  a  cost  of 
£8000,  these  Homes  have  hitherto  (1882)  been  the 
means  of  restoring  19,000  invalids  to  health  ;  on  5  Aug. 
1872  they  were  honoured  with  a  visit  by  the  Princess 
Louise  and  the  Marquis  of  Lome.  A  skating  rink, 
with  asphalte  floor,  118  feet  long  and  60  wide,  was 
opened  in  1876.  The  first  wooden  steamboat  jetty 
formed  by  a  private  joint  stock  company  in  1835  prov- 
ing insufficient,  the  present  pier,  with  waiting-rooms 
and  separate  allotment  for  vehicle  traffic,  was  built  a 
few  years  ago  by  the  late  Mr  Hunter  of  Hafton  ;  it  ex- 
tends 390  feet  into  the  water,  which  at  its  head  has  a 
depth  of  about  4  fathoms.  Kirn  pier  is  of  similar  con- 
struction ;  whilst  Hunter's  Quay  is  a  stone  erection  of 
1828,  with  a  projection  and  slip,  and,  near  it,  the  Royal 
Clyde  Yacht  Club-house.  In  1880  a  broad  esplanade, 
protected  by  a  breast-wall,  was  formed  along  the  northern 
shore  of  Balgay  Bay  at  a  cost  of  £500  ;  beyond,  spanning 
Balgay  Burn,  is  the  Victoria  Bridge  (1878).  The  parish 
church,  built  in  1816,  and  enlarged  in  1834  and  1839, 
is  a  good  Gothic  edifice,  with  838  sittings,  and  a 
massive  square  pinnacled  tower ;  in  its  graveyard  are 
time-worn  tombstones  to  the  Rev.  John  Cameron  and 
Andrew  Boyd,  Bishoj)  of  Lismore,  bearing  date  1623  and 
1636.  The  Free  chuixh,  dating  from  1843,  was  rebuilt 
(1876-77)  in  the  French  Gothic  style  at  a  cost  of  £10,000 ; 
and  a  Free  Gaelic  church  is  the  old  U.P.  church  of  182S, 
converted  to  its  present  purpose  in  1875,  in  which  year 
the  U.P.  body  built  a  handsome  new  Gothic  church  at 
a  cost  of  £5000.  A  Scottish  Episcopal  church.  Holy 
Trinity,  Early  English  in  style,  with  nave,  chancel,  anil 
stained-glass  windows,  was  biult  in  1850 ;  a  Roman 
Catholic  church,  St  Mun's,  in  1863.  Other  places  of 
worship  are  an  English  Episcopal  cliurch  and  a  Baptist 
chapel,  both  open  only  during  the  summer  months  ; 
\i\ih.  a.  quoad  sacra  and  a  U.P.  church  (1863)  at  Kirn. 
The  beautiful  cemetery,  2  acres  in  extent,  contains  the 
graves  of  Robert  Buchanan  of  Ardfillajme  (1785-1873), 
professor  of  logic  in  Glasgow  University,  and  the  late 
James  Hunter,  Esq.  of  Hafton  (d.  1855) ;  but  at  Greenock, 
not  here  at  her  birthplace,  rests  Mary  Cameron,  Burns's 
'Highland  Mary'  (d.  1786).  Dunoon  public,  Kim  pub- 
lic, and  Dunoon  Free  Cliurch  schools,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  200,  118,  and  180  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  171,  79,  and  142  chil- 
dren, and  grants  of  £132,  12s.,  £80,  4s.,  and  £115,  13s. 
Since  1868  a  burgh,  with  Kirn  and  Hunter's  Quay,  under 
the  General  Police  and  Improvement  Act,  Dunoon  is 
governed  by  a  senior  and  two  junior  magistrates,  and  by 
9  other  police  commissioners.  The  municipal  constitu- 
ency numbered  944  in  1882,  when  the  bui-gh  valuation 
amounted  to  £68,963,  whilst  the  revenue  including 
assessments  for  1881  was  £3400.  Pop.  (1844)  1296, 
(1861)  2968,  (1871)  3756,  (1881)  4680— a  number  raised 
by  summer  visitors  to  upwards  of  7000. 

The  ])arish  comprises  the  ancient  parishes  of  Dunoon 
and  Kilmun,  and,  besides  the  town  and  suburbs  of 
Dunoon,  contains  the  post-office  villages  of  Sandbank, 
Kilmun,  Stiioxe,  Blaikmoue,  Akdentinny,  and 
Inkllan.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Strachur,  NE  by  Loch- 
goilhead,  E  by  Loch  Long  and  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  S  by 
the  Kyles  of  Bute,  W  by  Inverchaolain,  and  NW  by 
Kilmodan.  Its  utmost  length  is  16:^  miles  from  N  to 
S,  viz.,  from  Wliistlefield  inn  to  Toward  Point;  its 
breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  2  and  76  miles ; 
and  its  land  area  is  44,595  acres.  The  coast-line,  reach- 
ing from  1^  mile  NNEofGlenfinart  to  opposite  Rotliesay, 
extends  about  23  miles — 7  along  Loch  Long,  5  around 
Holy  Loch,  9  along  the  Firtli  of  Clyde,  and  2  along  the 
KvLEs  OF  Bute.  It  is  everywhere  bordered  witli  the 
low  green  ]tlatform  of  the  old  sea-margin,  a  natural 
terrace  thickly  fringed  with  town  and  village  and  plea- 
sant mansion,  and  backed  by  hills  or  mountains.  The 
3  lower  miles  of  narrow  Loch  EcK  belong  to  Kilmun  ;  and 


DUNOON 


DUNROD 


from  its  foot  the  Eachaig  river  winds  5{  miles  south- 
south-eastward  to  the  head  of  Holy  Loch,  and  receives 
by  the  way  the  Massen  and  Little  Eachaig,  the  former 
running  8|  miles  southward  and  south-eastward  through 
the  interior,  the  latter  4^  miles  east-north-eastward 
along  the  boundary  of  Kilmun  with  Inverchaolain  and 
Dunoon.  Dunoon  is  not  so  mountainous  as  Kilmun, 
its  chief  elevations  from  S  to  N  being  Indian  Hill  (935 
feet),  Ben  Ruadh  (1057),  Garrowehorran  Hill  (1115), 
Corlorach  Hill  (1371),  Kilbride  Hill  (1294),  Horse  Seat 
(1282),  the  Badd  (1215),  *Bishop's  Seat  (1651),  Dunan 
(575),  Strone  Saul  (993),  Finbracken  Hill  (649),  and 
Dalinlongart  Hill  (643)  ;  whilst  in  Kilmun  rise  Kilmun 
Hill  (1535),  Stronchullin  Hill  (1798),  Ben  Ruadh 
(2178),  *Creachan  Mor  (2156),  and  Cruach  a'  Bhuie 
(2084)  to  the  E  of  the  Eachaig  and  Loch  Eck,  and,  to 
the  W  thereof,  Ballochyle  Hill  (1253),  Clachaig  Hill 
(1708),  Sgarach  Mor  (1972),  A'  Chruach  (1570),  Clach 
Beinn  (2109),  and  Bexmore  (2433),  where  asterisks 
mark  those  summits  that  culminate  on  the  confines  of 
the  parish.  Clay  slate,  greenish,  greyish,  or  bluish  in 
hue,  sometimes  finely  laminated  and  firmly  grained,  is  a 
predominant  rock,  and  has  been  quarried  for  roofing 
purposes  on  Toward  estate  and  near  the  town  of  Dunoon. 
Highly  indurated  mica  slate,  traversed  by  veins  of  com- 
pact quartz  and  contorted  into  every  variety  of  curve, 
is  still  more  prevalent,  forming  by  far  the  greater  portion 
of  the  ancient  parish  of  Dunoon,  and  passing  into  clay 
slate  in  the  southern  part  of  Kilmun  Hill.  Silurian 
rock,  course -grained  and  merging  out  of  junction  with 
clay  slate,  occurs  at  Strone  Point  and  Toward  ;  whilst 
Old  Red  sandstone  skirts  the  shore  from  Inellan  to 
within  about  a  mile  of  Toward  Castle,  and  has  been 
quarried,  at  different  periods,  for  building  purposes. 
Limestone,  in  small  quantity  and  here  and  there  of 
quality  akin  to  marble,  occurs  contiguous  to  the  Old 
Red  sandstone,  which  near  Toward  Point  is  traversed 
by  dykes  of  trap  ;  and  serpentine,  taking  a  high  polish, 
is  fairly  plentiful  on  the  coast  near  Inellan.  The  soils 
are  generally  light  and  shallow,  consisting  chiefly  of 
humus,  sandy  gravel,  or  sandy  loam.  Great  agricul- 
tural improvements  have  lately  been  elfected,  especially 
on  the  Benmore  estate,  where  and  at  Castle  Toward 
hundreds  of  acres  have  been  planted  with  millions  of 
trees.  On  Ardnadam  farm  is  a  cromlech  ;  ancient  stone 
coffins  have  been  found  in  various  places  ;  an  artifi- 
cial mound,  90  by  73  feet,  and  10  feet  high,  on  Ardin- 
slat  farm,  is  supposed  to  have  been  formed  by  the 
Romans  ;  and  Kilmun  has  interesting  ecclesiastical  anti- 
quities. The  principal  mansions,  all  separately  noticed, 
are  Castle-Toward,  Hafton  House,  Benmore  House,  and 
Glenfinart  House  ;  and  6  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  32  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  99  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  360  of  from  £20  to 
£50.  Dunoon  is  the  seat  of  a  presbytery  in  the  synod 
of  Argyll ;  and  the  civil  parish  is  divided  ecclesiastically 
among  Dunoon-Kilmun  itself  (a  living  worth  £426)  with 
the  chapelries  of  Strone  and  Toward,  and  the  following 
quoad  sacra  parishes,  with  date  of  erection  as  such — 
Ardentinny  (1874),  Inellan  (1873),  Kirn  (1874),  and 
Sandbank  (1876).  The  seven  schools,  all  of  them  public 
but  the  last,  of  Ardentinny,  Inellan,  Kilmun,  Rashfield, 
Sandbank,  Toward,  and  Glenloan,  with  total  accom- 
modation for  655  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  at- 
tendance of  386,  and  grants  amounting  to  £375,  17s. 
Valuation  (1860)  £34,889,  (1882)  £80,774,  16s.  6d. 
Pop.  (1801) 1750, (1831)  2416,  (1841)  4211,  (1861)5461, 
(1871)  6871,  (1881)  8003.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  29,  1873. 
See  S.  Martin's  Guide  to  Dunoon  (Dunoon,  1881). 

The  presbytery  of  Dunoon  comprises  the  old  parishes 
of  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  Inverchaolain,  Kilfinan,  Kil- 
modan,  Kingarth,  Rothesay,  Lochgoilhead  and  Kil- 
morich,  and  Stralachlan  and  Strachur,  the  quoad  ormiia 
parish  of  North  Bute,  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  New 
Rothesay,  Ardentinny,  Inellan,  Kim,  and  Sandbank, 
and  the  chapelries  of  Strone,  Toward,  Kilbride,  Tigh- 
nabruaich,  and  Rothesay-Gaelic.  Poj).  (1871)  21,627, 
(1881)  23,711,  of  whom  3102  were  communicants  of  the 
Church  of  Scotland  in  1S78. — The  Free  Church  has  a 


presbytery  of  Dunoon,  with  3  churches  in  Rothesay, 
2  in  Dunoon,  2  in  Kingarth,  and  8  at  respectively 
Inellan,  Kilfinan,  Kilmodan,  Kilmun,  North  Bute, 
Sandbank,  Strachur,  and  Tighnabruaich,  which  together 
had  3237  members  in  1881. 

Dunpender.     See  TitAniAix. 

Dunragit,  a  hamlet  and  a  mansion  on  the  W  border 
of  Old  Luce  parish,  Wigtownshire.  The  hamlet  lies 
near  a  station  of  its  own  name  on  the  Castle-Douglas 
and  Portpatrick  railway,  3;^  miles  W  of  Glenluce,  and 
has  a  post  and  telegraph  office.  To  the  S  of  the  station 
is  the  Mote  of  Dunragit,  a  roundish  eminence,  now 
overgrown  with  whins  ;  and  to  the  N,  on  the  hillside, 
stands  Dunragit  House,  a  modern  edifice,  a  seat  of  John 
Charles  Cuninghame,  Esq.  of  Craigends. 

Dunreggan.    See  Moniaive. 

Dun-Richnan.     See  Dores. 

Dunrobin  Castle,  the  Scottish  seat  of  the  Duke  of 
Sutherland,  in  Golspie  parish,  Sutherland,  on  a  terrace 
overlooking  the  sea,  near  a  private  station  on  the  High- 
land railway,  1|-  mile  NE  of  Golspie,  and  4^  WSW  of 
Brora.  It  boasts  to  be  the  oldest  inhabited  house  in  the 
kingdom,  founded  in  1098  or  1275  by  Robert,  Thane  or 
Earl  of  Sutherland,  after  whom  it  received  its  name,  but 
of  whom  history  knows  absolutely  nothing ;  the  greater 
portion  of  it,  however,  ismodern,  built  by  the  secondDuke 
between  1845  and  1851.  It  thus  forms  two  piles  con- 
joint with  one  another,  and  together  constituting  a  solid 
mass  of  masonry,  100  feet  square,  and  80  feet  high.  The 
ancient  pile  on  the  seaward  side  is  a  plain  but  dignified 
specimen  of  the  old  Scottish  Baronial  architecture.  The 
new  is  very  much  larger  than  the  old,  and,  blending  the 
features  of  German  schloss,  French  chateau,  and  Scottish 
fortalice,  makes  a  goodly  display  of  oriel  windows,  battle- 
ments, turrets,  and  pinnacles  ;  whilst  its  great  entrance- 
tower,  at  the  north-eastern  angle,  is  28  feet  square  and  135 
high.  Internally,  the  castle  is  arranged  in  suites  distin- 
guished by  the  names  of  different  members  or  relations  of 
the  family,  as  the  Duke's,  the  Argyll,  the  Blantj^re,  and 
the  Cromartie  Rooms,  the  last  so  called  after  George,  the 
Jacobite  third  Earl  of  Cromartie,  who  here  was  made 
prisoner  by  the  Sutherland  militia,  15  April  1746. 
Each  of  these  suites  comprises  a  complete  set  of  sitting 
and  bed  rooms,  and  is  decorated  in  a  style  of  its  own  ; 
and  that  on  the  seaward  front  is  separated  from  the 
others  by  a  wide  gallery  or  passage,  is  adorned  and  fur- 
nished in  the  most  costly  and  elegant  manner,  com- 
mands from  a  bedroom  oriel  window  a  wide  and  magnifi- 
cent view,  and  was  set  apart  for  the  use  of  the  Queen 
so  long  ago  as  1851.  From  one  cause  and  another  Her 
Majesty's  visit  was  postponed  till  September  1872,  when 
it  fell  to  her  to  lay  the  foundation  stone  of  a  monument 
to  her  late  mistress  of  the  robes,  the  second  Duchess 
(1806-68).  A  beautiful  Eleanor  cross,  40  feet  high,  with 
a  bronze  bust  by  Noble,  this  monument,  finished  in 
1874,  crowns  a  slight  eminence  to  the  right  of  the  prin- 
cipal avenue.  Prior  to  the  Queen's  visit,  Dunrobin  had 
twice  received  the  Prince  and  the  Princess  of  Wales — 
in  1866  and  1871.  Very  fine  flower  gardens,  between  a 
terrace  (100  yards  long)  and  the  sea,  are  reached  by  suc- 
cessive broad  flights  of  steps  ;  behind  is  the  beautiful 
park,  in  which  are  two  'brochs'  or  dry-built  circular 
towers.  One  of  these,  being  excavated  by  the  Rev.  Dr 
Joass,  yielded  two  little  plates  of  brass,  the  one  oblong, 
the  other  semicircular  (Mr  Joseph  Anderson,  Rhiud 
Lecture,  31  Oct.  1881).  Both  castle  and  grounds  are 
accessible  to  the  public.  George  Granville  William 
Sutherland-Leveson-Gower,  present  and  third  Duke  (b. 
1828;  sue.  1861),  holds  1,176,343  acres,  or  more  than 
nine-tenths  of  the  shire,  valued  at  £56,396  per  annum. 
See  Sutherland,  Cromarty,  and  Bex-a-Bhragie. — 
Ord-  Sur.,  sh.  103,  1878. 

Dunrod,  an  ancient  parish  on  the  coast  of  Kirkcud- 
brightshire, united  about  the  year  1663  to  Kirkcudbright, 
and  now  forming  the  southern  part  of  that  parish.  Its 
name  signifies  'a  red  hill,'  and  seems  to  have  been  de- 
rived from  an  oblong  reddish-coloured  hill  adjacent  to 
tlio  site  of  its  church.  This,  with  its  fragment  of  a 
Norman  fort,  stood  4  miles  SSE  of  Kii-kcudbright  town, 


DUNEOD 

and  measured  30  feet  iu  length  and  15  in  breadth.     The 
churchyard  is  still  in  use,  and  has  a  circular  form. 

Dunrod,  an  ancient  barony  in  Innerkip  parish,  Ren- 
frewshire, taking  name  from  a  hill  to  the  E  of  Kip 
Water,  and  traversed  by  a  bum  of  its  ovm  name.  The 
hill  culminates  2  miles  ENE  of  Innerkip  village,  and, 
rising  to  an  altitude  of  936  feet  above  sea-level,  figures 
conspicuously  in  the  gathering  grounds  of  the  Greenock 
water-works.  The  burn  belongs  naturally  to  the  basin 
of  the  Kip,  but  flows  eastward  into  one  of  the  reser\-oirs 
of  the  Greenock  water-works ;  and  it  is  spanned,  at  a  point 
1^  mile  ENE  of  Innerkip  village,  by  a  curious  and  very 
ancient  bridge,  supposed  to  be  Roman.  The  barony  be- 
longed to  Sir  John  de  Lindsay,  Bruce's  accomplice  in 
the  Red  Comyn's  murder  (1306),  and  remained  with  his 
descendants  till  1619,  when  it  was  sold  to  Archibald 
Stewart  of  Blackball  by  Alexander  Lindsay  of  Dunrod, 
who  from  the  haughtiest  baron  in  tlie  West  country  sunk 
to  a  warlock  beggar,  selling  fair  winds  to  fishermen  and 
sea-captains,  and  died  at  last  in  a  barn.  An  old  rhyme 
6ays  of  him — 

'  In  Innerkip  the  witches  ride  thick, 

And  in  Dunrod  they  dwell ; 
But  the  greatest  loon  among  them  a' 

Is  auld  Dunrod  himsel.' 

See  pp.  31-39  of  Gardner's  Wemyss  Bay,  Innerkip,  etc. 
(Paisley,  1879). 

Dunrossness,  a  parish  in  the  S  of  Shetland,  containing 
the  hamlet  of  Boddam,  near  tlie  head  of  a  long  voe,  on 
the  E  coast,  7  miles  N  of  Sumburgh  Head,  and  20  SSW 
of  Lerwick,  under  which  there  is  a  post  office  of  Dun- 
rossness, with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph 
departments.  There  are  also  post  ofiices  at  Connings- 
burgh,  Virkie,  Fair  Isle,  and  Sandwick,  the  last  with 
telegraph  department. 

The  parish  comprises  the  ancient  parishes  of  Dimross- 
ness,  Sandwick,  and  Conningsburgh  ;  and,  besides  a 
large  tract  of  Mainland,  includes  a  number  of  islands. 
The  Mainland  portion  is  bounded  on  the  N  by  Quartf, 
and  on  all  other  sides  by  the  sea,  extending  south- 
ward to  Sumburgh  Head  ;  and  measuring  in  straight 
line,  from  N  to  S,  about  18  miles.  The  chief  islands  are 
Mousa,  in  the  NE  ;  Fair  Isle,  far  to  the  S  ;  and  Colsay 
and  St  Ninians  on  the  W.  The  coasts  are  rocky  and 
unecpial  ;  and  the  principal  bays  or  creeks  are  Quendale 
Voe,  West  Voe,  Grutness,  and  Aiths  Voe.  Sumburgh 
Head  rises  boldly  in  the  extreme  S  of  Mainland,  and 
is  crowned  by  a  lighthouse,  showing  a  fixed  light, 
visible  at  the  distance  of  22  nautical  miles.  Fitful 
Head,  as  bold  and  loftier,  rises  on  the  N  side  of 
Quendale  Voe,  5|  miles  NNW  of  Sumburgh  Head. 
The  interior  consists  largely  of  bleak  mossy  hills ; 
and  in  the  S  end,  much  of  what  formerly  was 
arable  land  has  been  destroyed  by  sand  drifts  ;  yet  a 
considerable  aggregate  of  moss  and  moor  lias  been 
brought  into  a  state  of  pasture  or  tillage  by  processes  of 
reclamation.  The  rocks  of  the  western  half  are  claystone 
slate,  of  the  eastern  secondary  sandstone  ;  and  at  Sand- 
lodge  is  Scotland's  one  active  copper  mine,  from  which, 
in  1879,  were  raised  778  tons  of  copper  ore,  valued  at 
£2723.  Several  small  lakes,  abounding  with  fish,  are 
dotted  over  the  surface  ;  and  the  neighbouring  seas 
yield  to  the  crofters  a  richer  harvest  than  their  fields. 
Between  1872  and  1877  three  Runic  and  two  Ogham  in- 
scriptions were  discovered  near  the  ancient  burying- 
ground  of  Conningsburgh  church,  which,  dedicated 
to  either  St  Paul  or  Columba,  stood  close  to  the  seashore, 
a  little  E  of  the  present  Free  church.  Inland  is  tlie 
broch  of  Aithsetter,  and  across  the  bay  to  the  south- 
ward is  the  more  celebrated  broch  of  MousA  (Procs.  Soc. 
Ants.  Scotl.  1879,  pp.  145-156).  Two  proprietors  divide 
moat  of  the  land,  1  other  holding  an  annual  value  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  1  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and 
above  40  of  less  than  £50.  In  the  presbytery  of  Lerwick 
and  synod  of  Shetland,  this  parish  is  divided  quoad 
sacra  into  Sandwick  and  Dunrossness,  the  latter  a 
living  worth  £29i).  Its  church,  built  in  1790,  contains 
858  sittings.  There  are  also  Free  churches  of  Dunross- 
ness and  Conningsburgh,  and  Baptist  and  Wesleyan 
446 


DUNSCORE 

chapels  of  Dunrossness.  Eight  public  schools  have 
been  recently  built  in  the  civil  parish,  at  Connings- 
burgh, Sandwick,  Bigtown,  Levenwick,  Boddam,  Quen- 
dale, Virkie,  and  Fair  Isle,  with  respective  accommoda- 
tion for  90,  130,  80,  60,  110,  60,  70,  and  40  children. 
Valuation  (1881)  £3728,  8s.  9d.  Pop.  of  civil  parish 
(1801)  3201,  (1831)  4405,  (1861)  4830,  (1871)  4522  ;  of 
registration  district  (1871)  1970,  (1881)  1604. 

Dunsappie,  a  small  lake  (233  x  67  yards)  at  the  E 
border  of  Canongate  parish,  Edinburghshire,  on  the  de- 
pressed E  shoulder  of  Arthur's  Seat,  contiguous  to  the 
most  easterly  reach  of  the  Queen's  Drive,  3  furlongs 
E  by  N  of  the  summit  of  Arthur's  Seat,  and  IJ  mile 
by  road  SE  of  Holyrood  Palace.  It  lies  360  feet  above 
sea-level,  amid  grounds  on  which  Prince  Charles  Ed- 
ward's army  encamped  both  before  and  after  the  battle 
of  Prestonpans  ;  it  points  the  way  of  the  easiest  ascent 
to  the  summit  of  Arthur's  Seat ;  and,  in  ^vinter,  being 
one  of  the  first  places  to  bear,  is  often  crowded  with 
skaters. 

Dunscaith,  a  ruined  baronial  fortalice  on  the  W  coast 
of  Sleat  parish,  Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness-shire.  It  be- 
longed to  the  Barons  of  Sleat,  and  seems,  from  remains 
of  a  prison  and  of  a  draw-well,  to  have  been  a  place  of 
considerable  strength. 

Dunscore  (Gael,  dun-sgoir,  'fort  of  the  sharp  rock'), 
a  village  and  a  parish  of  Nithsdale,  W  Dumfriesshire. 
The  village,  Dunscore  or  Cottack,  standing  3  furlongs 
from  the  Cairn's  left  bank,  and  320  feet  above  sea-level, 
is  4 J  miles  WSW  of  Auldgirth,  and  9  NW  of  Dumfries, 
under  which  it  has  a  post  office. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  by  Glencairn  and  Keir,  NE 
by  Kirkmahoe,  S  by  Holywood  and  Kirkpatrick-Dur- 
hani  in  Kirkcudbrightshire,  and  W  by  Balmaclellan, 
also  in  Kirkcudbrightshire ;  and  by  Glencairn  and  Holy- 
wood  it  is  all  but  cut  into  two  separate  halves,  eastern 
and  western,  at  a  point  on  the  Cairn,  IJ  mile  SW  of  the 
village.  Its  utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  11 J  miles  ;  its 
breadth  varies  from  barely  150  yards  to  3 J  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  14,923^  acres,  of  which  108^  are  water.  The  Nith 
winds  2J  miles  south-south-eastward  along  the  boundary 
with  Kirkmahoe  ;  Cairn  Water  courses  2^  miles  south- 
ward along  that  with  Glencairn,  next  for  150  yards  across 
the  belt  connecting  the  two  halves,  and  lastly  1§  mile 
along  the  Holywood  border ;  whilst  from  Balmaclellan 
Dunscore  is  separated  by  Loch  Urr  (5x4  furl.)  and  Urr 
Water,  flowing  1|  mile  southward  therefrom.  Through 
the  western  half  Glenessland  Bm'u  runs  i\  miles  east- 
north-eastward  to  the  Cairn  ;  through  the  eastern,  Lag- 
gan  Burn  5|  to  the  Nith.  The  surface  sinks  along  the 
Nith  to  80,  along  the  Cairn  to  195,  and  along  the  Urr 
to  close  on  500,  feet  above  sea-level ;  and  the  chief 
elevations  are  Rose  Hill  (717  feet),  Crawston  Hill  (711), 
and  Cats  Craig  (637)  in  the  eastern  half,  and,  in  the 
western,  Stioijuhan  Moor  (1027),  Craigdasher  Hill  (958), 
Craigenputtoch  Moor  (1038),  Knochoute  (1070),  and 
Bogiie  Hill  (1416),  the  last-named  culminating  on  the 
north-western  border.  The  parish  presents  a  striking 
variety  of  scenery — in  the  E,  the  Nith's  fertile  holms, 
with  soft  environment  of  wooded  hills  ;  and  in  the  W,  the 
heathery  granite  heights  and  black  morasses  that  stretch 
through  Galloway,  almost  to  the  Irish  Sea.  Its  rocks 
are  partly  Silurian,  partly  Devonian  ;  and  the  soil  is  a 
rich  alluvium  along  the  Nith  and  the  Cairn,  on  other 
low  grounds  mostly  sand  or  light  gravel,  and  on  the 
uplands  a  light  stony  loam,  overlying  a  tilly  bottom. 
Fully  one-third  of  the  entire  area  has  never  been  culti- 
vated, little  indeed  of  it  admitting  of  reclamation  ; 
about  60  acres  are  covered  with  natural  wood,  and  440 
with  plantations  of  larch  and  Scotch  firs.  Antiquities, 
other  than  four  ancient  camps  or  forts,  a  '  Druidical ' 
stone  circle,  and  several  tumuli,  are  the  towers  of 
BoGiUK  and  Lag.  The  latter  ruin,  1%  mile  NE  of  the 
village,  was  the  scat  of  the  Griersons  from  1408,  its  last 
inhabitant  l)eiiig  that  noted  hunter-down  of  Covenanters, 
Sir  Robert  Grierson  of  Lag  (1650-1736).  He  is  buried 
in  the  graveyard  of  tlie  ancient  church,  wliich,  disused 
since  1649,  stood  towards  the  SE  corner  of  the  parish,  \ 
mile  SW  of  Ellisland.    The  said  farm  of  Ellisland  was 


DUNSCRIBEN 

Robert  Burns's  home  from  178S  to  1791,  as  Craigenput- 
TOCH  was  Thomas  Carlyle's  from  1828  to  1834,  so  that 
Dunscore  has  memories  such  as  few  parishes  in  Scotland 
have.  John  Welsh  himself  (1570-1623),  John  Knox's 
son-in-law,  has  been  claimed  as  a  native.  Friars  Carse 
and  Stroquhan  House  are  the  principal  mansions  ;  and  4 
proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  up- 
wards, 33  of  between  £100  and  £500,  11  of  from  £50  to 
£100,  and  10  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Dunscore  is  in  the  pres- 
bytery and  synod  of  Dumfries  ;  the  living  is  worth  £230. 
The  present  parish  church,  at  the  village,  is  a  Gothic 
edifice  of  1823,  ^\-ith  a  handsome  W  tower  and  850  sittings. 
There  are  also  Free  churches  of  Dunscore  and  Craig  and 
a  U.P.  church  ;  whilst  four  public  schools — Burnhead, 
Dunscore,  Dunscore  infant  and  female,  and  Glenessland 
— with  respective  accommodation  for  96,  88,  58,  and  60 
children,  had  (18S0)  an  average  attendance  of  63,  85,  33, 
and  55,  and  grants  of  £51,  16s.,  £60,  13s.,  £25,  12s., 
and  £58,  12s.  Valuation  (1860)  £9881,  (1882)  £13,917, 
Is.  2d.  Pop.  (1801)  1174,  (1831)  1488,  (1861)  1554, 
(1871)  1504,  (1881)  U05.—Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  9,  1863. 

Dunscriben,  a  small  vitrified  fort  in  Urquhart  and 
Glenmoriston  parish,  Inverness-shire,  on  the  brow  of  a 
hill  fronting  Loch  Ness,  1 J  mile  SSW  of  Bunloit  ham- 
let. 

Dunscuddeburgh,  a  ruined  fort  in  Kilmuir  parish, 
Isle  of  Skj'e,  Inverness-shire. 

Duns  Dish.     See  Dux. 

Dunse  or  Down  Law,  a  hill  (665  feet)  at  the  south- 
western extremity  of  Roxburgh  parish,  Roxburghshire, 
conjoint  with  Peniel  Heugh  in  Crailing  parish,  and  2 
miles  NE  of  Ancrum  village. 

Dunse  or  Duns  (the  spelling  till  1740,  revived  in 
1882),  a  town  and  a  parish  of  central  Berwickshire. 
Standing,  420  feet  above  sea-level,  on  a  plain  at  the 
southern  base  of  Dunse  Law,  the  tovra  by  road  is  44 
miles  ESE  of  Edinburgh,  15|  W  of  Berwick-on-Tweed, 
and  3  furlongs  N  by  AV  of  Dunse  station  on  a  loop- 
line  of  the  North  British,  this  being  SJ  miles  StV 
of  Reston  Junction,  55^  ESE  of  Edinburgh,  and  22  NE 
of  St  Boswells.  The  original  town,  which  by  charter  of 
1489  was  made  a  burgh  of  barony,  was  built  on  the  ditn 
or  Law,  but,  overthrown  and  burned  by  the  English  in 
1545,  was  thereafter  abandoned  to  utter  decay  and  ex- 
tinction. This  Law  is  a  round,  smooth,  turf-clad  hill, 
rising  gradually  from  a  base  of  2^  miles  in  circumference 
to  a  tabular  summit  700  feet  high  and  nearly  30  acres 
in  area,  and  itself  consists  of  trap  or  greenstone  rock, 
through  which  obtrudes  a  block  of  the  Old  Red  sand- 
stone, highly  metamorphosed  by  the  action  of  heat, — 
the  'Covenanters'  Stone.'  Here  in  the  spring  of  1639 
Leslie  encamped  with  an  army,  numbered  variously  at 
from  12,000  to  30,000  men.  Charles  was  at  Berwick, 
whence  through  a  telescope  he  saw  the  hillside  stirring 
with  pikemen  and  musqueteers,  stout  ploughmen  and 
Swedish  veterans,  and  Argyll's  supple  Highlanders  with 
their  targes  and  plaids  anddorlachs;  before  every  captain's 
tent  a  standard  bearing  the  legend,  in  golden  letters, 
'  For  Christ's  Crown  and  Covenant.'  '  Our  hill,'  -writes 
Principal  Baillie,  '  was  garnished  on  the  top  towards  S 
and  E  \vith  mounted  cannon,  well-nigh  to  the  number 
of  40,  great  and  small.  Our  regiments  lay  on  the  sides 
of  the  hill  almost  round  about.  The  place  was  not  a 
mile  in  circle — a  pretty  round  rising  in  a  declivity  with- 
out steepness  to  the  height  of  a  bowshot.  On  the  top 
somewhat  plain,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  and 
as  much  in  breadth,  as  I  remember,  capable  of  tents  for 
40,000  men.  The  crouners  lay  in  canvas  lodgings  high 
and  wide  ;  their  captains  about  them  in  lesser  ones  ;  the 
soldiers  about  them  all  in  huts  of  timber  covered  with 
divot  or  straw. '  Ministers  also  there  were  to  superfluity, 
who  encouraged  the  soldiers  by  '  their  good  sermons  and 
prayers,  morning  and  even,  under  the  roof  of  heaven,  to 
which  drums  did  call  them  for  bells. '  So  the  host  lay, 
barring  the  royalists'  progress,  till  a  '  humble  supplica- 
tion '  on  the  part  of  the  Scots  and  a  '  gracious  proclama- 
tion '  on  that  of  his  Majesty  led  to  the  hollow  Pacification 
of  Berwick,  18  June  1639.  The  Stone,  an  oblong,  mea- 
suring originally  5  by  2^  feet,  had  been  chipped  away 


DUNSE 

by  relic-mongers  almost  to  nothing,  when,  in  1878,  it 
was  enclosed  and  cleared  of  the  surrounding  turf,  so 
that  now  once  more  it  stands  2^  feet  above  the  ground. 

The  present  town,  the  'Dunse  that  dings  a','  was 
founded  about  1588,  and  at  first  was  defended  on  three 
sides  by  a  deep  morass,  long  since  drained  and  obli- 
terated. In  1670  it  was  constituted  a  burgh  of  barony 
imder  Sir  James  Cockburn  of  Cockbum,  who  had  bought 
the  estate  of  Dunse  from  Himie  of  Ayton  ;  and  down 
to  1696  it  claimed  to  be  one  of  Berwickshire's  county- 
towns,  a  rank  that  it  once  more  shares  with  Greenlaw 
under  an  act  of  1853.  The  single  episode  in  its  liistory, 
apart  from  the  prayerful  encampment,  is  that  of  the 
'  Dunse  demoniac '  in  1630,  a  poor  woman  whom  the 
Earl  of  Lauderdale  believed  to  be  possessed  by  an  evil 
spirit,  and  who  spoke  better  Latin  even  than  the  minister 
(Chambers's  Doiyi.  Ajm.,  ii.  43);  but  Dunse  has  produced 
some  very  worthy  sons.  Foremost  among  them,  doubt- 
fully, the  'Angelic  Doctor,'  Duns  Scotus  (1265-1308), 
author  of  Realism  and  greatest  of  schoolmen.  After- 
wards, certainly,  the  Rev.  Thomas  Boston  (1676-1732), 
author  of  The  Fourfold  State,  whose  birthplace  in  New- 
town Street  is  marked  by  a  tablet ;  Cadwallader  Colden, 
M.  D.  (1688-1776),  botanist  and  lieutenant-governor  of 
New  York;  James  Grainger,  M.D.  (1724-67),  a  minor 
poet;  Thomas  M'Crie,  D.D.  (1772-1835),  biographer  of 
Knox  and  Melville  ;  James  Cleghorn  (1778-1838),  an 
accomplished  actuary ;  John  Black  (1783-1855),  for 
twenty-three  years  editor  of  the  Morning  Chronicle; 
and  Robert  Hogg  (b.  1818),  botanist.  The  Rev.  Adam 
Dickson,  too,  an  able  writer  upon  agriculture,  was 
minister  from  1750  till  his  death  in  1776.  Lighted  by 
gas  since  1825,  and  well  supplied  with  water  by  a  com- 
pany founded  in  1858,  the  town  has  a  modern  and  well- 
to-do  aspect,  with  its  square  or  market-place,  its  spacious 
streets,  and  its  pretty  suburbs,  studded  with  tasteful 
villas.  The  Town-Hall,  in  the  centre  of  the  market- 
place, a  Gothic  structure  with  elegant  spire,  is  of  modern 
erection,  as  likewise  are  the  County  Buildings  and  the 
Corn  Exchange,  the  latter  opened  in  1856.  A  mechanics' 
institute  dates  from  1840  ;  and  in  1875  a  public  library 
hall  was  built  at  a  cost  of  £670.  Dunse  has  besides  a 
post  office,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  insurance, 
and  railway  telegraph  departments,  branches  of  the  Bank 
of  Scotland  (1833),  the  British  Linen  Co.  (1784),  and 
the  Royal  Bank  (1856),  20  insurance  agencies,  3  hotels, 
2  masonic  lodges,  a  horticultural  society  (1842),  a  volun- 
teer corps,  and  a  Tuesday  paper — the  Berioickshire  Neics 
(1869).  An  important  corn  market  is  held  on  every 
Tuesday,  and  hiring  fairs  are  held  on  the  first  Tuesday 
of  March,  May,  and  November  ;  sheep,  cattle,  and  horse 
fairs  on  the  first  Thursday  of  June,  the  second  Thursday 
of  July,  26  August  (or  the  Tuesday  after  if  the  26th  falls 
on  Saturday,  Sunday,  or  Monday),  the  third  Tuesday  of 
September,  and  17  November  or  the  Tuesday  alter. 
There  is  also  an  auction  mart,  with  fortnightly  sales  of 
sheep  and  cattle,  at  which  a  large  business  is  done.  The 
parish  church,  a  very  plain  building  of  1790,  tliat  super- 
seded an  ancient  Norman  edifice,  was  almost  destroyed 
by  fire  in  1879.  As  reopened  on  16  Jan.  1881  after 
restoration  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £4000,  it  contains  920 
sittings,  of  pitch-pine,  stained  and  varnished  ;  is  beauti- 
fied with  several  stained-glass  windows  ;  and  has  a  fine 
new  organ,  its  congregation  having  been  the  second  in 
the  Church  of  Scotland  to  employ  instrumental  music. 
Boston  Free  church,  repaired  in  1881  at  a  cost  of  nearly 
£700,  contains  650  sittings  ;  and  three  U.P.  churches — 
East,  South,  and  "West — contain  respectively  650,  640, 
and  900.  There  are  also  a  Roman  Catholic  chajiel  (1882) 
and  an  Episcopal,  Christ  Church  (1854  ;  200  sittings),  in 
simple  Norman  style.  A  new  combined  public  school, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  £5760,  was  opened  on  9  Feb.  1880. 
Dunse  now  is  governed  by  9  police  commissioners, 
having  adopted  the  General  Police  and  Improvement 
Act  in  1873,  when  the  burgh  bounds  were  extended. 
In  1882  its  municipal  constituency  numbered  400,  and 
its  burgh  valuation  amounted  to  £8400.  Pop.  (1834) 
2656,  (1861)  2556,  (1871)  2618,  (1881)  2438. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NE  bv  the  detached  section  of 

447 


DUNSHELT 


DUNSTAFFNAGE 


Longformacus  and  by  BunkJe,  E  and  SE  by  Edrom,  SW 
by  Langton,  and  NW  by  Longformacus  proper  and 
Abbey  St  Bathans.  Its  utmost  length,  from  NW  to 
SE,  is  7^  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  NE  to  SW,  varies 
between  If  and  5  miles ;  and  its  area  is  11,474|  acres, 
of  which  78J  are  water.  From  just  above  the  Retreat 
to  a  little  below  Cumledge,  Whitadder  Water,  winding 
6f  miles  south-south-eastward,  traces  all  the  north- 
eastern border  ;  and  Blackadder  Water  for  a  few  yards 
touches  the  south-eastern  corner  of  the  parish,  being 
joined  here  by  Langton  Burn,  which,  coming  in  from 
Langton,  runs  3f  miles  on  or  close  to  the  southern  and 
south-eastern  boundary.  The  surface  sinks  to  250  feet 
above  sea-level  at  the  confluence  of  Langton  Burn  with 
the  Blackadder,  and  along  the  Whitadder  to  close  on 
280,  thence  rising  north-westward  to  700  feet  at  Dunse 
Law,  869  at  Jennies  Wood,  1000  at  Black  Hill,  1033  at 
Commonside,  960  near  Windyshiel,  and  1065  at  CoCK- 
BURNLAW — heights  that  belong  to  the  southern  ridge  of 
the  Lammermuirs.  The  rocks  of  the  hills  are  partly 
eniptive,  mainly  Silurian  ;  and  those  elsewhere  are  sand- 
stone of  three  dill'erent  formations,  which  has  been 
([uarried,  and  which  in  places  is  rich  in  vegetable  fossils. 
More  than  once  copper  has  been  mined  on  the  banks  of 
the  WTiitadder,  but  never  with  profitable  results.  A 
sharpish  gravel  is  the  prevailing  soil  throughout  the  N, 
and  a  very  rich  light  deep  loam  over  most  of  the  S, 
with  patches  near  the  town  of  dark  deep  sandy  loam. 
About  one-half  of  the  entire  area  is  in  tillage,  and  as 
much  as  one-sixth  perhaps  is  under  wood.  By  the  gale 
of  14  Oct.  1881  great  havoc  was  done  to  the  trees  here, 
especially  to  the  limetree  avenue  at  Dunse  Castle.  This, 
the  chief  mansion  in  the  parish,  standing  1  mile  W  by 
N  of  the  town,  near  the  south-western  base  of  the  Law, 
is  a  splendid  modern  castellated  pile,  with  an  ancient 
tower  adjoining  it  that  is  said  to  have  been  built  by 
Randolph,  Earl  of  Moray,  and  with  beautiful  grounds 
containing  an  artificial  lake  (4  x  §  furl.).  Its  owner, 
Wm.  Jas.  Hay,  Esq.  (b.  1827  ;  sue.  1876),  holds  5812 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £10,094  per  annum.  Other 
mansions  are  Manderston,  Wedderburn  Castle,  Berry- 
well,  Cairnbank,  Cumledge,  and  Wellfield  ;  and,  in  all, 
7  proprietors  hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and 
upwards,  10  of  between  £100  and  £500,  18  of  from  £50 
to  £100,  and  54  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Dunse  is  the  seat 
of  a  presbytery  in  the  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £479.  Dunse  public  school  and 
Millburn  school,  with  respective  accommodation  for  739 
and  95  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of 
326  and  42,  and  grants  of  £268,  Is.  and  £41.  Valua- 
tion (1864)  £22,495,  (1882)  £26,513.  Pop.  (1801)  3157, 
(1831)  3469,  (1861)  3595,  (1871)  3602,  (1881)  3353.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  26,  34,  33,  1864-63. 

The  presbytery  of  Dunse  comprises  the  parishes  of 
Abbey  St  Bathans,  Bunkle  and  Preston,  Cranshaws, 
Dunse,  Eccles,  Fogo,  Greenlaw,  Langton,  Longformacus, 
and  Polwarth.  Pop.  (1871)  9615,  (1881)  8810,  of  whom 
2169  were  communicants  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in 
1878. — The  Free  Church  has  a  presbytery  of  Dunse  and 
Chimsidc,  with  churches  at  Allanton,  Chirnside,  Dunse, 
Eyemouth,  Greenlaw,  Houndwood,  Langton,  Longfor- 
macus, Mordington,  Reston,  and  Swinton,  which  to- 
gether had  2212  members  in  1881. 

Dunshelt.    See  Dane.siialt. 

Dunsinane,  a  hill  and  an  estate  in  CoUace  parish, 
Perthshire.  One  of  the  Sidlaws,  '  high  Dunsinane  hill ' 
culminates  8  miles  NE  of  Perth,  and,  conical  in  form, 
witJi  truncated  summit,  rises  gradually  on  the  NW  side, 
bl'-eply  or  murally  on  the  other  sides,  to  an  altitude  of 
fiOO  feet  above  the  circumjacent  ground,  and  1012  above 
tlie  level  of  the  sea.  It  commands  a  fine  view  of  Strath- 
more  and  Blairgowrie,  and  is  crowned  with  vestiges  of  a 
strong  ancient  fort.  This — Macbeth's  Castle,  according 
to  Shakespeare  and  local  tradition — occupied  an  oval 
area  210  feet  long  and  130  feet  wide,  and  was  defeiuled 
botli  l)y  a  rampart  and  by  fosses  quite  round  the  upper 

})art  of  the  hill.     E.xcavations,  made  on  its  site  in  1857, 
eil  to  the  discovery  of  a  doorway  and  an  underground 
chamber,  and  of  an  exquisitely  worked  bronze  finger- 
448 


ring  in  the  form  of  a  spiral  double  serpent.  The  estate 
comprises  the  entire  parish,  and  has  long  been  the  pro. 
perty  of  the  Nairnes,  who  held  a  baronetcy  from  1704  to 
1811,  the  fifth  and  last  baronet.  Sir  William  Nairne, 
having  in  1786  been  raised  to  the  bench  as  Lord  Dunsi- 
nane. The  present  proprietor,  William  Nairne,  Esq.  (b. 
1852;  sue.  1866),  owns  3330  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £3529  per  annum.  The  mansion,  3  miles  WNW  of 
the  hill,  and  7  NNE  of  Perth,  has  a  fine  southern  ex- 
posure, and  is  an  elegant  edifice,  greatly  improved  and 
modernised  about  1830,  with  extensive  and  beautiful 
grounds.— OrcZ.  Sur.,  sh.  48,  1868. 

Dunskeig,  a  hill  in  Kilcalmonell  and  Kilberry  parish, 
Argyllshire,  at  the  S  side  of  the  mouth  of  West  Loch 
Tarbert.  Rising  very  steeply  fi-om  the  seaboard  to  a 
height  of  300  feet,  it  commands  an  extensive  view,  and 
is  crowned  with  remains  of  two  very  ancient  forts,  one 
of  them  \atrified. 

Dunskellar.     See  Uist,  North. 

Dunskerry,  an  islet  of  Durness  parish,  Sutherland,  in 
the  Pentland  Firth,  4  miles  N  of  Fair-aird  Head. 

Dunskey,  an  old  castle  in  Portpatrick  parish,  Wig- 
townshire, 4  J  furlongs  SSE  of  Portpatrick  town.  Cro\vn- 
ing  the  brink  of  a  giddy  precipice,  100  feet  high,  at  the 
head  of  Castle  Bay,  it  was  built  about  1510  by  Adair  of 
Kilhilt  on  the  site  of  an  older  stronghold,  jdundered 
and  burned  in  1489  by  Sir  Alexander  M'CuUoch  of  Myr- 
toun.  From  the  Adairs  it  came  to  the  Blairs  in  1648, 
but  was  quite  ruinous  in  1684.  Dunskey  Burn  and  a 
cave  near  its  mouth  were  popularly  thought,  down  to  a 
comparatively  recent  period,  to  possess  some  magic  pro- 
perties of  healing.  Near  the  head  of  Dunskey  Glen 
stands  Dunskey  House,  amid  extensive  wooded  grounds, 
1^  mile  N  by  W  of  Portpatrick.  Built  in  1706,  and 
greatly  enlarged  and  im]iroved  about  1830,  it  is  the 
property  of  Sir  Edward  Hunter-Blair  of  Blairquhan, 
who  holds  in  Wigtownshire  8255  acres,  valued  at  £4948 
per  annum. 

Dun's  Muir.     See  Dun,  Muir  of. 

DunstaflFnage,  a  famous  ancient  castle  in  Kilmore  and 
Kilbride  parish,  Argyllshire,  on  a  small,  tabular,  rocky 
promontory  at  the  S  side  of  the  mouth  of  Loch  Etive,  3^ 
miles  NNE  of  Oban.  Its  name  has  been  derived  from 
Gaelic  words  signifying  '  the  fortified  hill  with  the  Mvo 
islands,'  alluding  partly  to  its  own  strong  site,  and  partly 
to  Eilean  Mor  and  Eilean  Beag,  two  islets  lying  a  little  to 
theNE.  The  original  castle  is  alleged  to  have  been  founded 
either  by  'Ewin,  a  Pictish  monarch,  contemporary  with 
Julius  Caesar,'  or  by  some  early  chief  of  the  Lorn  branch 
of  the  Dalriads  ;  and  to  have  been  occupied  as  a  royal 
seat  by  the  later  Dalriadan  kings  till  844,  when  Kenneth 
mac  Alpin  succeeded  to  the  crown  of  Pictavia.  Skene, 
however,  remarks  that  '  of  Dunstallnage,  as  a  royal  seat, 
history  knows  nothing ; '  and  by  him  the  Dalriadan 
capital  is  placed  at  Dunadd  in  Glassary  parish.  The 
Scandinavian  Vikings,  who  in  the  9th  century  began  to 
make  bold  descents  upon  the  western  coasts,  had  pos- 
sibly here  a  fortress;  and  this  may  have  been  altered, 
enlarged,  or  rebuilt  at  various  periods,  till  it  acquired  its 
ultimate  form  about  the  13th  century.  Having  come 
into  the  possession  of  the  Macdougals,  Lords  of  Lorn,  it 
was  besieged  and  captured  by  Robert  Bruce  in  1308, 
soon  after  his  victory  in  the  Pass  of  Awe  ;  and  by  him 
was  conferred  on  Sir  Archibald  Campbell  of  Lochawe, 
whose  fourth  descendant,  Colin,  first  Earl  of  Argyll,  in 
1490  made  a  grant  of  Dunstafi"nage  to  his  younger  son, 
Alexander.  In  1836  his  twelfth  descendant  received  a 
baronetcy,  Avhich  became  extinct  at  the  death  of  its 
third  holder  in  1879.  The  estate— 3000  acres  of  £916 
annual  value — then  passed  to  Alex.  Jas.  Hy.  Campbell, 
Escp,  who  is  now  hereditary  captain  of  the  castle,  and 
whoso  mansion,  Dunstafl'nago  House,  stands  1  mile 
WSW  of  Connel  station,  and  4^  miles  NE  of  Oban, 
Dunstaffnage  Castle  itself  must  have  undergone  im- 
portant alterations  subsequent  to  the  time  of  Robert 
Bruce  ;  and,  as  it  now  stands,  cannot  claim  much  higher 
antiquity,  or  possibly  even  less,  than  the  neighbouring 
castle  of  Dunolly.  It  gave  refuge  to  James,  last  Earl  of 
Douglas,  after  his  forfeiture  in  1455,  serving  him  as  a 


DUNSYEE 

place  of  conncil  with  Donald,  Earl  of  Ross  and  Lord  of 
the  Isles ;  and  it  served  as  a  military  post,  with  a  small 
English  garrison,  during  the  rebellions  of  1715  and  1745. 
Flora  ]\Iacdonald  M'as  for  a  short  time  a  prisoner  here  in 
the  summer  of  1746. 

The  castle  is  now  a  mere  shell,  tall  and  irregular,  but 
not  without  majesty ;  and  to  the  sea  it  presents  a  grand 
and  striking  aspect,  sharing  in  the  magnificent  scenery 
round  the  head  of  the  Firth  of  Lorn.  Its  immediate 
site,  or  the  crown  of  the  rock  on  which  it  stands, 
measures  300  feet  in  circumference  ;  its  own  periphery, 
round  the  exterior  of  its  walls,  is  about  270  feet ;  and 
its  form  is  quadrangular,  with  internal  measurement 
of  87  feet  from  wall  to  wall,  these  walls  being  30  to 
70  feet  high  and  9  feet  thick.  Three  of  its  angles  have 
each  a  round  tower,  and  the  fourth  is  rounded  ;  three  of 
its  sides  are  bare  and  weather-worn,  and  the  fourth 
forms  part  of  a  modern  dwelling  ;  and  the  main  entrance 
to  it  was  by  a  staircase  from  the  sea,  and  is  supposed  to 
have  been  protected  by  a  fosse  -with  a  drawbridge.  Some 
brass  guns  which  belonged  to  vessels  of  the  Spanish 
Armada,  wrecked  oft'  the  coast  of  Mull,  are  on  the  walls. 
A  ruined  chapel,  standing  400  feet  distant,  and  formerly 
used  by  the  inmates  of  the  castle,  is  in  the  Early  Pointed 
style,  much  defaced  by  alterations,  and  measures  78  feet 
in  length,  26  in  breadth,  and  14  in  height.  It  is  sup- 
jiosed  to  contain  within  its  area  the  ashes  of  some  of 
the  Dalriadan  kings  or  princes,  as  also  of  Alexander  11. , 
who  in  1249  died  in  the  neighbouring  island  of  Kerrera; 
and  it  returns  a  very  fine  echo.  Some  of  the  ancient 
regalia  are  said  to  have  been  preserved  in  the  chapel  till 
about  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century;  and  to  have  then 
been  stolen  by  servants  of  the  keeper.  Two  other  fine 
relics  were  afterwards  found  in  it — the  one  a  battle-axe, 
9  feet  long,  of  beautiful  workmanship,  embossed  with 
silver ;  the  other  a  small  ivory  figure  representing  a 
crowned  monarch  with  a  scroll  in  his  hand,  and  supposed 
to  have  been  a  coronation  sculpture.  The  famous  coro- 
nation stone,  or  Stone  of  Destiny,  described  by  "Wyn- 
toun  in  his  CronyMll  as  the  palladium  of  the  liberty  of 
Scotland,  is  always  said  to  have  been  removed  hence  by 
Kenneth  mac  Alpin  to  Scone;  and,  according  to  Dr 
Macculloch,  is  strictly  homogeneous  with  stones  in  the 
castle's  masonry,  and  therefore  likely  to  have  been  really 
hewn  from  some  quarry  in  the  neighbourhood.  Dun- 
stafFnage  figures  largely  in  Barbour's  Brus,  in  Sir  Walter 
Scott's  Lord  of  the  Isles,  and,  as  'Ardenvohr,'  in  his 
Legend  of  Montrose. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  45,  1876. 

I)uns3T:e  (perhaps  'fort  of  the  marsh'),  a  village  and  a 
parish  on  the  NE  border  of  the  upper  ward  of  Lanark- 
shire. The  village,  standing  750  feet  above  sea-level, 
near  •^he  right  bank  of  South  Medwin  Water,  has  a  post 
and  railway  telegraph  office  under  Noblehouse,  and  a 
station  on  a  branch  line  of  the  Caledonian,  2^  miles  W 
by  N  of  Dolphinton,  and  8h  ENE  of  Carstairs  Junction. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NE  by  West  Calder  in  Edin- 
burghshire, E  by  Linton  in  Peeblesshire,  SE  by  Dolphin- 
ton  and  Walston,  and  W,  NW,  and  N  by  Carnwath. 
Its  length,  from  N  to  S,  varies  between  3^  and  5f  miles ; 
its  utmost  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is  4f  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  10,759^  acres,  of  which  16  are  water.  South 
Medwin  Water,  rising  in  the  NE  corner  of  the  parish, 
■winds  9 J  miles  SSE  and  WSW  along  all  the  eastern  and 
southern  border,  and  receives  West  Water  with  two 
or  three  smaller  burns  from  the  interior,  where,  to  the 
NW,  lies  tiny  Crane  Loch  (§  x  J  furl  ).  The  surface 
sinks  along  South  Medwin  Water,  at  the  south-western 
comer,  to  less  than  700  feet  above  sea-level,  and  rises 
thence  to  960  feet  at  Easthills,  1313  at  Dunsyre  Hill,  1347 
at  Mid  Hill,  1210  at  Left  Law,  1460  at  Bleak  Law,  1070 
at  Cairn  Knowe,  1336  at  Black  Law,  1360  at  Harrows 
Law,  and  1425  at  White  Craig— these  forming  the  Pent- 
lands'  south-western  termination.  Springs  of  excellent 
water  are  numerous  and  copious  ;  and  springs  charged 
with  iron  ore  abound  on  the  verge  of  a  marsh.  The 
rocks  are  partly  crystalline,  partly  stratified,  and  the 
stratified  ones  comprise  sandstone  and  limestone,  and 
are  supposed  to  belong  to  the  Carboniferous  formation. 
Copper  ore  and  calc-spar  are  found.  The  soil  is 
29 


DUNTOCHER 

generally  sandy,  and  not  very  fertile  ;  about  3000  acres 
being  in  tillage,  30  under  wood,  and  the  rest  either 
pastoral  or  waste.  The  chief  of  the  two  estates  in  the 
parish  was  part  of  the  lands  exchanged  in  1492  by  tho 
first  Earl  of  Bothwell,  with  the  Earl  of  Angus,  for  the 
lands  and  castle  of  Hermitage  in  Liddesdale  ;  and  pass- 
ing by  sale  from  the  Marquis  of  Douglas  to  Sir  George 
Lockhart,  president  of  the  court  of  session  (1685-89), 
belongs  now  to  his  descendant,  Lockhart  of  Lee  and 
Carnwath.  Dunsyre  Castle,  300  yards  from  the  parish 
church,  had  a  basement  vault  and  a  two-storied  super- 
structure ;  and  down  to  about  1740  was  a  seat  of  baronial 
courts,  and  possessed  its  instruments  of  torture.  No 
fewer  than  eight  other  old  fortalices  stood  within  the 
parish — five  at  Easter  Saxon,  two  at  Westhall,  and  one  at 
Todholes.  Several  cairns  have  been  found  to  contain 
urns  ;  and  the  route  by  which  Agricola's  army  went  from 
Tweeddale  to  the  Roman  camp  at  Cleghorn,  traversed 
the  parish,  and  still  is  traceable  in  the  form  of  an  earthen 
dike.  Dunsyre  was  a  frequent  retreat  of  the  Covenanters 
in  the  times  of  the  persecution ;  and  William  Yeitch, 
one  of  the  most  distinguished  of  their  preachers,  was 
tenant  of  AVesthills  up  to  the  battle  of  Rullion  Green 
(1C66) ;  whilst  Donald  Cargill,  the  martyr,  preached,  in 
1669,  on  Dunsyre  Common.  Dunsj-re  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Biggar  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale ; 
the  living  is  worth  £200.  The  church  is  an  old  build- 
ing, with  iron  jougs  and  a  Gothic  tower,  added  in  1820, 
and  contains  245  sittings.  A  public  school,  with  accom- 
modation for  46  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  of  46, 
and  a  grant  of  £51,  lis.  Valuation  (1882)  £6326,  8s. 
Pop.  (1801)  290,  (1831)  335,  (1861)  312,  (1871)  302, 
(1881)  254.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  24,  1864. 
Duntelchaig.  See  Dundelchack. 
Duntiblae,  a  village  in  Kirkintilloch  parish,  Dumbar- 
tonshire, on  Luggie  AVater,  If  mile  ESE  of  Kiikin til- 
loch  town.  It  was  the  residence  and  death-place  of  the 
weaver-poet  Walter  Watson  (1780-1854). 

Duntocher,  a  small  manufacturing  town  in  Old  Kil- 
patrick  parish,  Dumbartonshire,  on  Dalmuir  Burn,  in  a 
gap  of  the  Lower  Kilpatrick  Hills,  1  mile  NE  by  N  of 
Dalmuir  station,  and  9  miles  by  road  NW  of  Glasgow. 
It  occupies  a  romantic  site,  in  front  of  picturesque 
groupings  of  the  Kilpatrick  Hills  ;  has  charming  en- 
virons, with  many  delightful  walks ;  and,  extending 
with  its  eastern  suburbs  of  Faifley  and  Hardgate  to  a 
length  of  fully  1  mile,  consists  chiefly  of  plain  two- 
story  houses,  many  of  them  with  small  gardens  attached. 
A  bridge  over  it  at  the  town  is  very  ancient ;  bears  a 
Latin  inscription,  placed  upon  it  in  1772,  stating  it  to 
have  been  built  by  the  Romans  ;  and  is  firmly  believed 
by  most  of  the  townspeople,  and  even  thought  by  some 
antiquaries,  to  be  really  a  Roman  structure,  perhaps  the 
oldest  bridge  in  Scotland ;  but  has  been  so  often  repaired 
as  to  retain  few  or  no  indications  of  its  date,  and  very 
probably  was  no  otherwise  Roman  than  in  having  been 
built  with  stones  abstracted  from  a  previous  Roman 
structure.  A  Roman  fort  stood  on  a  neighbouring  hill ; 
and,  though  now  almost  entirely  obliterated,  continued 
till  Pennant's  time  (1772)  to  be  distinctly  traceable,  and 
has  yielded  some  important  relics.  Three  subterranean 
vaulted  chambers  were  discovered  on  the  side  of  this  hill 
in  1775  ;  included  several  rows  of  pillars,  arranged  in  a 
labyrinth  of  passages  ;  and  were  conjectured  to  have 
been  a  sudatorium  or  hot  bath  for  the  use  of  the  garri- 
son. Roman  tablets,  altars,  vases,  coins,  and  querns 
were  found  either  on  the  hill  or  in  a  neighbouring  field ; 
and  most  of  them  were  deposited  for  preservation  in 
the  Hunterian  JIuscum  of  Glasgow  College.  Antoninus' 
Wall  also  passed  a  short  distance  to  the  S,  and  might 
readily  have  yielded  its  materials  for  the  constructing 
of  buiklings  after  the  Roman  times.  The  town,  then 
only  a  village,  about  the  end  of  last  century  became  a 
scat  of  cotton  manufacture ;  but  its  mill  was  closed  in 
1808,  when  the  Gartclash  property  passed  to  William 
Dunn  (1770-1849).  By  him  the  mill  was  reopened  and 
greatly  extended,  and  to  him  Duntocher  owed  its  rapid 
expansion.  Since  1831  it  was  the  scat  of  trade  for  the 
four  large   cotton -mills  of  Duntocher  itself,   Faifley, 

449 


DUNTREATH 

Hardgate,  and  Miltonfield,  all  four  within  a  mile  of  one 
another.  These  mills  long  turned  out  annually  about 
a  million  of  pounds  of  cotton  j'arn,  and  two  millions  of 
yards  of  cotton  cloth  ;  and  afforded  the  chief  means  of 
support  to  the  population.  But  there  are  also,  in  the 
town,  a  manufactory  of  agricultural  implements,  and,  in 
its  near  vicinity,  lime-works,  coal-works,  and  quarries. 
The  town  has  a  post  office  under  Glasgow,  a  chapel  of 
ease  (1836;  800  sittings),  a  Free  church,  a  U.P.  church 
(670  sittings),  St  ]\Iary's  Roman  Catholic  church  (1850; 
500  sittings),  public  and  Roman  Catholic  schools,  a 
public  library,  and  a  savings'  bank.  Pop.  (1851)  2446, 
(1861)  2360,  (1871)  1367,  (1881)  1561.— Ord.  Sicr.,  sh. 
30,  1866. 

Dimtreath,  an  old  castellated  mansion  in  Strathblane 
parish,  SW  Stirlingshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  Blane 
Water,  2  J  miles  WN W  of  Strathblane  village.  Built  in 
the  form  of  an  open  quadrangle,  but  never  completed  on 
the  S  side,  it  was  long  unoccupied  after  1740,  and  fell  into 
great  decay.  It  retains  on  the  N  side  a  chapel  which 
by  tradition  is  said  to  have  '  undergone  a  crash  during 
the  celebration  of  divine  service;'  and  it  stands  in  a 
moderately  large  and  very  beautiful  park.  At  the  for- 
feiture of  the  last  Celtic  Earl  of  Lennox  in  1425,  Dun- 
treath  was  granted  to  a  younger  branch  of  the  Edmon- 
.stone  family,  and  now  is  held  by  Admiral  Sir  "William 
Edmonstone,  fourth  Bart,  since  1774  (b.  1810 ;  sue. 
1871)  who  sat  for  Stirlingshire  from  1874  to  1880,  and 
who  holds  9778  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £16,129 
per  annum,  including  £8451  for  minerals.    See  Colzium. 

Duntroon  Castle,  an  ancient  baronial  fortalice,  re- 
paired and  modernised  into  a  comfortable  mansion,  in 
Kilmartin  parish,  Argyllshire,  on  a  headland  projecting 
from  the  northern  shore  of  Loch  Crinan,  4  miles  SW  of 
Kilmartin  village.  Long  the  seat  of  the  Campbells  of 
Duntroon,  it  was  unsuccessfully  besieged  by  Colkitto  in 
1644;  now  it  belongs  to  Malcolm  of  Poltalloch,  and 
presents  an  imposing  appearance  as  seen  from  the  Crinan 
Canal. 

Duntrune,  a  beautiful  mansion  in  the  detached  section 
of  Dundee  parish,  Forfarshire,  near  the  left  bank  of 
Fithie  Burn,  4^  miles  NE  of  Dundee  town.  From  its 
high  site,  330  feet  above  sea-level,  it  commands  a  mag- 
nificent prospect — over  Ballumbie  and  Linlath  en  woods, 
Brou^hty  Ferry  and  the  Firth  of  Tay,  to  St  Andrews, 
with  its  grand  old  tower  of  St  Rule  standing  out  clear 
on  the  sky-line.  Here  lived  and  died  the  author  of 
Mystifications,  shrewd,  witty,  kindly  ]\Iiss  Stirling 
Graham  (1782-1877),  whose  nephew  and  heir,  John 
Edmund  Lacon,  Esq.,  holds  441  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £1366  per  annum.  A  neighbouring  hamlet 
bears  the  name  of  Burnside  of  Duntrune.  See  Dr 
John  Brown's  John  Leech  and  otlier  Pai^ers  (Edinb.  1882). 

Dimtulm,  an  ancient  castle  in  Kilmuir  parish.  Isle  of 
Skye,  Inverness-shire,  on  a  little  promontory,  over- 
hanging Loch  Scour,  9  miles  N  of  Uig.  Built  on  the 
site  of  a  Scandinavian  fort,  it  was  long  the  seat  of  the 
Macdonalds,  descendants  of  the  Lords  of  the  Isles,  till 
they  were  driven  out  of  it  to  Mugstot  by  the  ghost  of 
one  Donald  Gorm.  It  bore  originally  the  name  of  Dun- 
tlavid  or  St  David's  Fort,  in  honour  of  a  Scandinavian 
king  or  viking  who  had  resided  in  the  previous  fortalice  ; 
and  seems  to  have  been  a  splendid  structure,  so  strong 
as  to  be  impregnable  alike  by  land  and  by  sea  ;  but  now 
is  reduced  to  a  mere  shell — a  fragment  of  a  tower  and 
a  portion  of  flanking  wall.  A  neighbouring  hamlet  of 
Duntulra  has  a  post  office  under  Portree.  See  chap.  xi. 
of  Alexander  Smith's  Hammer  in  Skye  (Lond.  1865). 

Dunure,  a  seaport  village  and  an  ancient  castle  in  May- 
bole  parish,  Ayrshire.  The  village  stands  on  a  small  bay, 
6  miles  SW  of  Ayr,  and  5i  NW  of  JIaybole  ;  and  has 
an  artificial  harbour,  which,  lying  on  the  SW  side  of 
the  bay,  within  a  small  headland  called  Dunure  Point, 
was  formed  in  1811  at  a  cost  of  £50,000,  but  proving  of 
small  value,  was  allowed  to  go  into  decay.  The  water 
round  the  headland  has  a  depth  of  from  4  to  20  fathoms, 
with  a  level,  clean,  sandy  bottom,  and  good  anchorage  ; 
and  a  passage,  150  feet  wide  at  bottom,  was  cut  thence, 
through  solid  rock,  to  a  square  basin,  with  from  700 
450 


DUNVEGAN 

to  1000  feet  of  quay,  all  sheltered  by  high  ground,  and 
lined  with  buildings  forming  a  quadrangle.  The  access 
is  easy  and  safe  in  almost  any  wind  ;  and  the  egress  is 
so  facile  that  a  vessel,  immediately  on  leaving  the  har- 
bour, can  at  any  time  and  at  once  put  out  to  sea.  The 
depth  of  water  in  the  harbour  is  12  feet  at  ordinary 
spring  tides,  but  could  be  artificially  increased  to  nearly 
30  feet.  Yet  in  spite  of  all  these  advantages,  on  a  coast 
devoid  of  natural  shelter,  inhospitable  to  shipping,  and 
overlooked  by  a  productive  country,  the  only  craft  fre- 
quenting this  place  has  been  an  occasional  sloop  in  the 
agricultural  interests  and  a  few  fishing  boats.  Crowning 
a  clitr  that  overhangs  the  harbour,  the  castle  bears 
marks  of  great  antiquity  and  strength,  and  had  formerly 
defences  of  rampart  and  fosse.  From  the  fourteenth 
century  onwards  it  was  long  a  seat  of  the  Marquis  of 
Ailsa's  ancestors,  and  figured  prominently  in  such  wild 
scenes  in  the  history  of  the  Kennedys  as  the  roasting 
of  the  commendator  of  Ckossraguel;  but  is  now  a 
fragmentary  ruin,  belonging  to  Kennedy  of  Dalquharran 
Castle.— Ord  Siir.,  sh.  14,  1863. 

Dunvegan,  a  village,  a  castle,  a  sea-loch,  and  a  head- 
land in  Duirinish  parish,  Isle  of  Skye,  Inverness-shire, 
The  village  lies  near  the  head  of  the  sea-loch,  23^  miles 
W  by  N  of  Portree,  and  11  NNW  of  Struan  ;  is  a  place 
of  call  for  steamers  from  Glasgow  to  Skye  and  the  Outer 
Hebrides  ;  and  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments,  under  Portree, 
a  good  hotel,  Duirinish  Free  church,  and  a  new  public 
school,  erected  in  1875-76  at  a  cost  of  £915.  Dunvegan 
Castle  stands,  near  the  village,  on  a  rocky  headland, 
washed  on  three  sides  by  the  sea,  and  on  the  fourth 
approached  by  a  bridge  over  a  narrow  ravine.  Forming 
three  sides  of  a  quadrangle,  it  presents  '  an  amorphous 
mass  of  masonry  of  every  conceivable  style  of  architec- 
ture, in  which  the  nineteenth  jostles  the  ninth  century;' 
and  has,  from  time  immemorial,  been  the  seat  of  the 
chiefs  of  the  Macleods,  proprietors  once  of  Le^vis,  Uist, 
and  the  greater  part  of  Skye.  And  still,  as  says  Alex- 
ander Smith,  '  Macleod  retains  his  old  eyrie  at  Dun- 
vegan, mth  its  drawbridge  and  dungeons.  At  night  he 
can  hear  the  sea  beating  on  the  base  of  his  rock.  His 
"Maidens"  are  wet  with  the  sea-foam;  his  mountain 
"  Tables"  are  shrouded  with  the  mists  of  the  Atlantic. 
The  rocks  and  mountains  around  him  wear  his  name, 
ever  as  of  old  did  his  clansmen.  "Macleod's  countr)-," 
the  people  yet  call  all  the  northern  portion  of  the  island.' 
The  present  chief,  Norman  Macleod  of  I\Iacleod  (b.  1812; 
sue.  1835),  holds  141,679  acres  in  Inverness-shire,  valued 
at  £8464  per  annum.  The  oldest  portion  of  Dunvegan, 
on  the  seaward  side,  is  described  by  the  Lexicographer 
as  '  the  skeleton  of  a  castle  of  unknown  antiquity,  sup- 
])Osed  to  have  been  a  Norwegian  fortress,  when  the 
Danes  were  masters  of  the  island.  It  is  so  nearly  entire, 
that  it  might  easily  have  been  made  habitable,  were 
there  not  an  ominous  tradition  in  the  family  that  the 
owner  shall  not  outlive  the  reparation.  The  grandfather 
of  the  present  laird,  in  defiance  of  prediction,  began  the 
Avork,  but  desisted  in  a  little  time,  and  applied  his 
money  to  worse  uses.'  A  lofty  tower  was  added  by 
Alastair  Crotach  ( '  Crookback  Alexander'),  who,  dying 
at  a  great  age  in  Queen  Mary's  reign,  was  buried  at 
Rowardill  in  Harris.  A  third  part,  a  long  low  edifice, 
was  built  by  Rory  More,  who  was  knighted  by  James  A' I. ; 
the  rest  consists  of  modern  reconstructions  and  addi- 
tions ;  and  the  whole  forms  one  of  the  most  interesting 
castles  in  the  Highlands.  Its  history  is  marked,  more 
even  than  that  of  most  old  Highland  ])laces,  with  legends 
of  weird  superstition  ;  and  furnished  Sir  Walter  Scott 
with  the  suliject  of  the  last  of  his  Lrtlcrs  on  Dcmonology. 
Sir  Walter  spent  a  night  in  its  Fairy  Room  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1814,  and  wrote  a  description  of  it  more  picturesque 
than  true.  And  forty  years  earlier,  in  the  autumn  of 
1773,  Dr  Sanmel  Johnson  'tasted  lotus  here,  and  was 
in  danger  of  forgetting  that  he  was  ever  to  depart,  till 
Mr  15oswell  sagely  reproached  him  Avith  sluggishness 
and  softness.'  Two  singular  relics  are  preserved  at 
Dunvegan  Castle.  One  is  the  'fairy  flag,' alleged  to 
have   been    captured   at   the   Crusades   by  one   of  the 


DUNWAN  DAM 

Macleods  from  a  Saracen  chief,  and  consisting  of  a  square 
piece  of  very  rich  silk,  en^vrought  with  crosses  of  gokl 
thread  and  with  elf -spots.  The  father  of  Dr  Norman 
Madeod  records  how  strangely  a  Gaelic  prophecy  ful- 
filled itself  in  1799,  when,  as  a  boy,  he  was  present  at 
the  opening  of  the  iron  chest  in  which  this  flag  was 
stored.  The  other  relic  is  a  curiously-decorated  drink- 
ing-horn, holding  perhaps  two  quarts,  which  the  heir  of 
Macleod  was  expected  to  drain  at  one  draught,  as  a  test 
of  manhood,  before  he  was  suffei'ed  to  bear  arms,  or 
could  claim  a  seat  among  grown-up  men.  This — '  Rory 
More's  horn ' — is  mentioned  in  a  bacchanalian  song  of 
Burns,  and  was  placed  in  the  South  Kensington  Museum 
during  the  International  Exhibition  of  1862.  Dunvegan 
Loch,  known  also  as  Loch  FoUart,  separates  the  penin- 
sula of  Vaternish  on  the  NE  from  that  of  Duirinish  on 
the  SW  ;  measures  7|  miles  in  length,  and  2^  miles  in 
mean  width ;  and  affords  safe  anchorage,  in  any  wind, 
for  vessels  of  the  heaviest  burden.  Dunvegan  Head 
flanks  the  SAV  side  of  the  sea-loch's  entrance,  or  ter- 
minates the  peninsula  of  Duirinish.  It  presents  a 
singularly  bold  and  precipitous  appearance,  rising  to  a 
height  of  more  than  300  feet ;  and  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  loch,  the  Minch,  and  the  glens  and  mountains  of 
Harris.  See  Samuel  Johnson's  Tour  to  the  Western 
Islands  (1775) ;  chap.  x.  of  Alexander  Smith's  Summer 
in  Skye  (1865);  and  vol.  1.,  pp.  333-335,  of  the  Memoir 
cf  Norman  Macleod,  D.D.  (1876). 

Dunwan  Dam,  a  crescent-shaped  lake  in  Eaglesham 
parish,  SE  Renfrewshire,  2  miles  SW  by  S  of  Eaglesham 
village.  Lying  850  feet  above  sea-level,  it  is  7i  fur- 
longs long  ;  has  a  varying  width  of  1^  and  3  furlongs  ; 
and  sends  off  Holehall  Burn,  driving  Eaglesham  Mills, 
and-falling  into  the  White  Cart.— Orrf.  ,S'iJ?-.,sh.  22,  1865. 

Dupplin  Castle,  a  noble  mansion  of  Lower  Strathearn, 
in  Aberdalgie  parish,  Perthshire,  If  mile  NE  of  For- 
teviot  station,  and  5|  miles  SW  of  Perth.  Standing 
within  a  half  mile  of  the  Earn's  left  bank,  amidst  a  large 
and  finely-wooded  park,  it  succeeded  a  previous  edifice, 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1827  ;  and,  built  during  1828-32  at 
a  cost  of  £30,000,  is  a  splendid  Tudor  structure,  com- 
manding a  view  of  nearly  all  Strathearn,  and  containing 
a  library  famous  for  rare  editions  of  the  classics.  It  is 
the  seat  of  George  Hay,  eleventh  Earl  of  Kinnoull  (ere. 
1633)  and  Viscount  Dupplin  (1627),  who,  born  in  1827, 
succeeded  his  father  in  1866,  and  owns  12,577  acres  in 
the  shire,  valued  at  £14,814  per  annum.  On  6  Sept. 
1842  Dupplin  Castle  was  honoured  by  a  passing  visit 
from  the  Queen  and  Prin.ce  Albert.  In  its  vicinity,  on 
the  night  of  12  Aug.  1332,  was  fought  the  Battle  of 
Dupplin,  when  Edward  Baliol  and  the  '  disinherited 
barons,'  to  the  number  of  500  horse  and  3000  foot,  sur- 
prised and  routed  a  host  of  30,000  under  Mar,  the  new 
Regent  of  Scotland,  who  himself  was  slain  with  13,000 
of  his  followers.  A  stone  cross,  quite  entire,  stands  on 
the  face  of  an  acclivity,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
Earn,  almost  in  the  line  of  the  ford  by  which  Baliol's 
army  passed  the  river ;  and  a  large  tumulus,  ^  mUe  to 
the  N,  was  found  to  contain  some  stone-formed  graves, 
^vith  many  fragments  of  bones.  See  Aberdalgie. — 
Ord.  Sicr.,  sh.  48,  1868. 

Dura  Den,  a  small  ravine  in  Kemback  parish,  Fife, 
2^  miles  E  of  Cupar.  It  is  traversed  by  Ceres  Burn  on 
its  northerly  course  to  the  Eden,  and,  barely  9  furlongs 
in  length,  is  famous  for  the  wealth  of  fossil  ganoid  fish 
enshrined  in  its  yellow  sandstone.  This  yellow  sand- 
stone is  one  of  the  upper  beds  of  the  Old  Red,  and  has 
a  thickness  here  of  between  300  and  400  feet.  The  fish 
are  found  crowded  together  in  one  thin  layer,  nearly  a 
hundred  finely-preserved  specimens  having  been  counted 
on  a  single  slab  about  5  feet  square  ;  and  they  consist  of 
two  species  of  Holoptychius  (Andersoni  and  Flcmingii), 
besides  Dipterus,  Platyr/nathus,  Phaneroplcuron  Andcr- 
S'ini,  GhjTptoloemMS,  Glyptopomtis,  and  Pamphractus.  See 
Dr  J.  Anderson's  Dura  Den,  a  Monograph  of  the  Yelloiv 
Sandstone  and  its  Picmarkable  Remains  (Edinb.  1859). — 
Ord.  Stcr.,  sh.  49,  1865. 

Durhamtown,  a  village  in  Bathgate  parish,  Linlith- 
gowshire, 1  mile  SSW  of  Bathgate  town. 


DURISDEEB 

Durie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion  of  1762,  in  Scoonio 
parish,  Fife,  1^  mile  NNW  of  Leven.  The  estate,  ex- 
tending to  the  coast  and  including  the  feus  of  Leven, 
belonged  to  a  family  of  its  own  name  from  the  13th  till 
the  first  half  of  the  16th  century,  when  it  passed  by 
marriage  to  James  V.'s  favourite.  Sir  Alexander  Kemp. 
From  his  posterity  it  was  purchased  in  1614  by  the 
great  lawyer.  Sir  Alexander  Gibson,  whose  notes  on 
important  decisions  were  published  posthumously  as 
Dufie's  PracticTcs,  and  who  in  1621,  on  being  appointed 
a  lord  of  session,  assumed  the  title  of  Lord  Durie.  He 
died  at  Durie  House  in  1644,  having  in  1628  received  a 
Nova  Scotia  baronetcy,  whose  present  holder  is  Gibson 
Carmichael  of  Castle  Craig.  The  sti-angest  tale  is 
told  of  this  Sir  Alexander,  how,  prior  to  his  elevation 
to  the  bench,  he  was  walking  one  day  on  the  beach  not 
far  from  Leven,  when  he  was  seized  and  gagged  by  a 
party  of  Borderers,  headed  by  Christy's  Will,  and  was 
carried  over  the  Firth  to  Leith,  from  Leith  to  Edin- 
burgh, and  thence  through  Melrose  over  the  English 
Border  to  Harbottle  Castle,  there  to  be  kept  eight  days 
a  prisoner,  till  a  lawsuit  was  ended  to  which  his  pre- 
sence might  have  proved  inimical.  This  seems  a  cor- 
recter  version  of  the  story  than  Sir  Walter  Scott's, 
according  to  which  three  months  was  the  term  of  im- 
prisonment, the  Earl  of  Traquair  its  instigator,  and  its 
scene  the  lonely  peel-tower  of  Graham.  '  Not  for  years 
after,  when  travelling  in  Annandale,  did  Lord  Durie 
recognise  in  the  names  of  Maudgc  the  cat  and  Batty  the 
shepherd's  dog,  belonging  to  Will's  establishment,  the 
only  words  which,  loudly  called  from  time  to  time,  had 
reached  his  ears  during  his  days  of  captivity'  (Chambers's 
Domestic  Annals,  i.  355).  Dui'ie  was  sold  in  last  century 
to  the  ancestor  of  its  present  proprietor,  Robert  Christie, 
Esq.  (b.  1818  ;  sue.  1872),  who  holds  2134  acres  in  Fife, 
valued  at  £5884  per  annum,  including  £193  for  minerals 
— a  colliery,  namely,  long  so  famous  for  output  and 
quality  that  even  in  Holland  any  prime  coal  was  known 
as  'Durie  coal.' — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  40,  1867. 

Dunne.     See  Durness. 

Durinish.    See  Duirinish. 

Durisdeer,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  Upper  Nithsdale, 
NW  Dumfriesshire.  The  village  stands,  575  feet  above 
sea-level,  on  the  left  bank  of  Kirk  Burn,  2  miles  NNE 
of  Carronbridge  station,  this  being  24|  miles  ESE  of 
Old  Cumnock,  17|  NNW  of  Dumfries,  and  6  N  of  Thorn- 
hill,  under  which  Durisdeer  has  a  post  office. 

The  parish,  containing  also  part  of  the  village  of 
Carronbridge,  and  since  1727  comprising  half  of  the 
ancient  parish  of  Kilbride  or  Kirkbride,  is  bounded 
NW  by  Sanquhar,  NE  by  Crawford  in  Lanark- 
shire, SE  by  JMorton,  SW  and  W  by  Penpont. 
Its  utmost  length  is  8i  miles  from  N  by  E  to  S  by 
W,  viz. ,  from  Lowther  Hill  to  the  Nith  above  Morton 
Mill ;  its  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  ^  mile 
and  6|  miles ;  and  its  area  is  19,852  acres,  of  which 
134^  are  water.  The  NiTil  has  here  a  south-south- 
easterly course  of  7f  miles,  partly  along  tlie  Sanquhar 
and  Penpont  borders,  but  mainly  through  the  interior, 
and  here  receives  Enterkin  Burn  and  Carron  Water, 
which  last  traces  3^  miles  of  the  boundary  -svith  Morton. 
In  the  furthest  S  the  surface  sinks  along  the  Nith  to  less 
than  200  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  north-west- 
ward and  north-north-westward  to  595  feet  near  Auchen- 
skeoch,  744  near  Mar,  696  near  Cleuch-head,  1229  near 
Ballaggan,  1128  at  Birny  Rig,  1195  at  Fardingmullach 
Hill,  and  724  near  Crairiepark  ;  whilst  to  the  left  or  E 
of  the  Nith,  the  chief  elevations  from  S  to  N  are  High 
Enoch  (676  feet).  Nether  Hill  (1290),  *Scaw'd  Law 
(2166),  *Durisdeer  Hill  (1861),  Black  Hill  (1740),  Cosh- 
ogle  Rig  (1214),  *Well  Hill  (1987),  Thirstane  Hill 
(1895),  and  Lowtiier  Hill  (2377),  where  asterisks  mark 
those  summits  tliat  culminate  right  on  the  Lanarkshire 
border.  The  leading  formation  of  the  northern  uplands, 
a  portion  these  of  the  wild,  bleak  Southern  Highlands, 
is  Silurian  ;  and  a  reddish  frialjle  sandstone  prevails 
over  most  of  the  low  tracts  to  the  S.  The  soil  is  wet 
and  heavy  in  some  of  the  arable  lands,  in  others  gravelly 
or  sandy  ;  but,  as  a  rule,  is  loamy  and  very  fertile. 

451 


DURN 

About  two-fifths  of  the  entire  area  are  either  regularly  or 
occasionally  in  tillage  ;  woods  and  plantations  cover  more 
than  one-ninth  ;  and  the  rest  is  either  pastoral  or  waste. 
A  charming  glimpse  of  the  scenery  of  Durisdeer  is  given 
by  Dorotliy  Wordsworth,  who  ^\-ith  her  brother  and 
Coleridge  drove  up  from  Thornhill  to  Wanlockhead  on 
19  Aug.  1804  : — 'About  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Drum- 
lanrig  is  a  turnpike  gate  at  the  top  of  a  hill.  "We  left 
our  car  witli  the  man,  and  turned  aside  into  a  field 
where  we  looked  down  upon  the  Nith,  which  runs  far 
below  in  a  deei)  and  rocky  channel ;  the  banks  woody  ; 
the  view  pleasant  down  the  river  towards  Thornhill ;  an 
open  countrj',  cornfields,  pastures,  and  scattered  trees. 
Returned  to  the  turnpike  house,  a  cold  spot  uj^on  a 
common,  black  cattle  feeding  close  to  the  door.  Ovir 
road  led  us  down  the  hill  to  the  side  of  the  Nith,  and 
we  travelled  along  its  banks  for  some  miles.  Here  were 
clay  cottages  perhaps  every  half  or  quarter  of  a  mile. 
The  bed  of  the  stream  rough  with  rocks ;  banks  irre- 
gular, now  woody,  now  bare  ;  here  a  patch  of  broom, 
tliere  of  corn,  there  of  pasturage  ;  and  hills  green  or 
heathy  above '  ( Tour  in  Scotland,  ed.  by  Princ.  Shairp, 
1874).  Then,  too,  there  is  the  Enterkin,  made  famous 
by  Defoe  and  the  author  of  Eab  and  his  Frieiuls;  and  Well 
or  Wald  Path,  the  Roman  way  from  Nithsdale  to  Stratli- 
clyde,  runs  up  from  Carronbridge  to  Durisdeer  village, 
7  fuiiongs  NNE  of  which  are  remains  of  a  Roman  camp. 
Drumlanrig  Castle  is  the  most  prominent  object,  and 
the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  is  sole  proprietor  Durisdeer  is 
in  the  presbytery  of  Penpont  and  synod  of  Dumfries ; 
the  living  is  worth  £302.  The  cruciform  church,  at  the 
^'illage,  was  built  in  1699,  and  contains  540  sittings ; 
its  northern  transept  is  the  Douglas  mausoleum. 
Here  is  a  sumptuous  marble  moniiment  with  two 
sculptured  figures  in  the  Roubilliac  taste,  brought  from 
Rome,  and  representing  James,  second  Duke  of  Queens- 
berry  (1622-1711),  and  his  Duchess  ;  the  vault  beneath 
contains  tM^elve  Douglas  coffins,  ranging  in  date  between 
1693  and  1777.  There  is  also  a  Free  church  preaching- 
station  ;  and  Birleyhill  and  Durisdeer  public  schools, 
■with  respective  accommodation  for  107  and  103  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  54  and  62,  and 
grants  of  £61,  6s.  and  £56,  12s.  Valuation  (1882) 
£9501,  13s.  Pop.  (1801)  1148,  (1821)  1601,  (1861) 
1320,  (1871)  1189,  (1881)  1107.— Orti.  Sur.,  shs.  15,  9, 
1864-63.  See  Dr  C.  T.  Ramage's  Drumlanrig  Castle, 
with  the  Early  History  and  Ancient  Remains  of  Dicris- 
dccr  {BumL  1876). 

Dum,  a  hill  and  a  bum  in  Fordyce  parish,  N  Banff- 
shire. The  hill  culminates  2  miles  SW  of  Portsoy,  and, 
rising  to  an  altitude  of  651  feet  above  sea-level,  is 
crowned  with  remains  of  an  ancient  camp,  supposed  to 
have  been  Danish  ;  a  quarry  on  its  northern  side  yields 
a  beautiful  variety  of  quartz,  exported  to  England  for 
the  use  of  the  potteries.  The  burn,  rising  near  Smith- 
field,  at  an  altitude  of  600  feet,  runs  6  miles  north- 
north-eastward  to  the  sea  at  Portsoy. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
96,  1876. 

Durness,  a  coast  parish  of  NW  Sutherland,  containing 
Durine  village,  2|  miles  SSE  of  the  northernmost  point 
of  Fair-aird,  13  ESE  of  Cape  Wrath,  20^  WNW  of 
Tongue  vid  Heilem,  Hope,  and  Tongue  ferries,  and 
55^  NNW  of  Lairg,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office 
(Durness),  with  money  order  and  savings'  bank  depart- 
ments. At  it  also  are  Durness  hotel,  Durine  public 
school,  the  parish  church,  and  (in  Sangomore  hamlet,  5 
furlongs  S  by  E)  a  Free  church. 

The  parish,  till  1724  forming  one  with  Tongue  and 
Eddrachillis  as  part  of  'Lord  Reay's  country,'  is  bounded 
N  by  the  North  Sea,  E  by  Tongue,  SE  by  Farr,  SW  by 
Eddrachillis,  and  W  by  the  Atlantic.  From  N  to  S  its 
utmost  length  is  20^  Tniles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  E 
to  W,  is  17  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  147,323.J  acres,  of 
which  3726^  arc  water  and  2541  foreshore,  and  which 
includes  the  three  islands  of  Ciioaric,  Hoan,  and 
GoKVELLAN,  with  a  number  of  smaller  islets.  The 
•western  coast  is  very  slightly  indented,  offering  a  rock- 
bound  and  lofty  front  to  the  Atlantic,  and  terminating  on 
the  N  in  the  huge  promontory  of  grim  Cai'E  Wratu 
452 


DURNESS 

(523  feet).  Thence  5i  miles  eastward  the  northern  coast 
is  solely  or  mainly  broken  by  Kearvaig  Bay,  but  onward 
thence  to  the  eastern  boundar}'  it  is  deeply  intersected 
b}'  the  Kyle  of  Durness  and  Loch  EriboU.  Ever}- where 
almost  it  exhibits  some  of  the  finest  rock  scenery  iu 
Scotland,  the  cliffs  about  Cape  Wrath,  Fair-aird,  and 
Whiten  Head  rising  sheer  from  the  water  to  a  height 
of  200  or  700  feet,  and  being  fringed  with  'stacks,'  and 
tunnelled  by  caverns,  of  which  the  most  celebrated  are 
those  of  Whiten  and  Smoo.  The  river  Dionard  or 
Grudie,  rising  on  the  north-eastern  slope  of  Meall  Horn 
at  1760  feet  of  altitude,  and  in  its  upper  course  travers- 
ing Locban  Ulabhith  (If  x  1  furl.).  An  Dubh  Loch 
(2i  X  1  fmi.),  and  Loch  Dionard  (5;^  x  IJ  furl. ;  1380  feet 
above  sea-level),  runs  14;J  miles  northward  to  the  Kyle 
of  Durness,  which,  itself  winding  5^  miles  northward, 
with  a  varying  ^vidth  of  2|  and  6i  furlongs,  is  left  nearly 
dry  at  low  water,  and  itself  expands  into  Durness  or 
Baile  na  Cille  Bay,  IJ  mile  long,  and  from  1|  to  2  miles 
broad.  The  PoUa,  issuing  from  Loch  Dubh  (If  x  ^  furl.  ; 
631  feet),  and  presently  traversing  Loch  Staonsaid 
(5  X  1^  furl. ;  585  feet),  runs  73  miles  north-by-westward 
along  Strath  Beg  to  the  head  of  Loch  Eriboll,  which, 
penetrating  the  land  for  10^  miles  southward  and  south- 
south-westward,  varies  in  M'idth  between  5  furlongs  and 
2^  miles  over  its  upper  portion,  while  its  entrance  is  3 
miles  broad,  from  Hoan  island  to  Whiten  Head.  Lastly, 
the  river  Hope,  formed  by  three  principal  head-streams 
at  an  altitude  of  94  feet,  flows  6^  miles  along  Strath 
More  to  fresh-water  Loch  Hope  (5|  miles  x  1  to  7  furl. ; 
12  feet),  whence  issuing  it  continues  1|  mUe  northward 
to  Loch  Eriboll,  at  its  south-eastern  side.  There  are 
besides,  a  multitude  of  lesser  streams  and  lakes,  as  Lochs 
BoRLAY,  Craspul,  and  Meadaidh  (6x14  f^"'l- ;  221  feet), 
which  sends  off  a  stream  2  miles  north-north-eastward 
to  the  sea  near  Smoo  House.  The  surface  is  everywhere 
mountainous,  moorish  mostly  and  rocky,  with  little 
green  land  except  along  the  coast.  The  chief  elevations 
from  N  to  S,  those  marked  with  asterisks  culminating 
on  the  borders  of  the  parish,  are  Cnoc  Ard  an  Tionail 
(603  feet),  Cnoc  nan  Earbagan  (800),  Creagan  na  Speireig 
(746),  *Creag  Riabhach  Bheag(1521),  Ben  Hope  (3040), 
Cnoc  na  Pogaile  (1169),  Cnoc  a'  Chraois  (1143),  and  *Ben 
Hee  (2864),  to  the  E  of  the  Hope  ;  Beinn  Heilem  (585), 
Beinn  Poll  (756),  Meall  a'  Bhaid  Tharsuinn  (902),  Creag 
na  Faoilinn  (954),  An  Lean  Carn  (1705),  and  Feinne- 
bheinn  Mhor  (1519),  to  the  E  of  Loch  Eriboll  and  the 
PoUa  ;  Beinn  Ceanna-beinne  (1257),  Meall  Meadhonach 
(1387),  Meall  nan-crath  (1605),  Benspenue  (2537), 
Cran  Stackio  (2630),  Conamhcall  (1587),  and  *  Carn 
Dearg  (2613),  to  the  E  of  the  Kyle  of  Durness  and  the 
Dionard  ;  and,  between  these  and  the  Atlantic,  Cnoc  a' 
Ghuish  (982),  Meall  Sgribhinn  (1216),  Cnoc  na  Ba 
Ruaidhe  (726),  *Ben-derg-vore  (1528),  15einn  an  Amair 
(911),  Glasven  (1085),  Foinaven  (2980),  *Creag  Dionard 
(2554),  and  Meall  Horn  (2548).  The  rocks  are  chiefly 
gneiss,  granitic  gneiss,  quartzite,  and  mica  slate,  with 
occasional  veins  of  porphyry  and  felspar ;  but  in  some 
parts  are  variously  conglomerate,  red  sandstone,  and 
limestone,  which  last  is  extensively  wrought  not  far 
from  Cambusan-down  on  Loch  Eriboll.  Although  there 
are  several  good  patches  of  mixed  gravel  and  moss,  with 
here  and  there  a  piece  of  fairish  loam,  it  may  almost  bo 
said  that  Durness  contains  no  laud  suitable  for  cultiva- 
tion ;  but  it  is  an  excellent  grazing  district,  the  lime- 
stone that  underlies  tiie  surface-soil  proving  a  valuable 
stimulant  to  its  pasture.  The  holdings  some  of  them  arc 
very  large,  Eriboll,  Keoldale,  and  Balnakiel  extending 
to  from  30,000  to  40,000  acres,  whilst  Melncss,  lying 
partly  in  Tongue,  and  partly  in  Durness,  is  supposed  to 
exceed  70,000,  being  thus  the  largest  farm,  not  merely 
in  Sutherland,  but  probablv  also  in  the  United  Kingdom. 
The  rent  of  these  four  vast  lioldings  is  £1307,  £1237, 
£1385,  and  £1257  ;  and  on  the  first  and  last  there  are  but 
150  and  90  arable  acres.  The  sheep  are  all  of  the  Cheviot 
breed.  The  fresh-  and  salt-water  fisheries  of  salmon, 
trout,  char,  sea-trout,  herrings,  cod,  haddock,  and  ling 
are  highly  productive  ;  but  the  lobster  fisheries  of  Loch 
Eriboll  have  greatly  fallen  oflf  within  the  last  thirty  years. 


DURNO 

The  chief  antiquities  are  ten  round  '  duns  ;'  and  of  these 
the  most  perfect  is  Dun  Dornadilla  in  Strath  More, 
which,  16  feet  high,  and  50  yards  in  circiunference,  con- 
sists of  two  concentric  walls  of  slaty  stones.  At  Aultna- 
CAILLICH,  not  far  from  this  famous  'dun,'  was  born  the 
Gaelic  poet,  Robert  Donn.  Durness  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Tongue  and  synod  of  Sutherland  and  Caithness  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £205.  The  parish  church  of  1619, 
occupying  the  site  of  a  cell  of  Dornoch  monastery,  is 
now  a  ruin  ;  the  present  church  contains  300  sittings. 
Duriue  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  127 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  63,  and 
a  grant  of  £61,  lis.  Valuation  (1860)  £3672,  (1882) 
£6615,  15s.  2d.— all  but  £139  held  by  the  Duke  of 
Sutherland.  Pop.  (1801)  1208,  (1831)  1153,  (1861)  1109, 
(1871)  1049,  (1881)  987,  of  whom  900  were  Gaelic- 
speaking.— CrrZ.  Sur.,  shs.  114,  113,  108,  1880-82. 
See  pp.  57-72  of  Arch.  Young's  Sutherland  (Edinb. 
1880). 

Dumo,  a  village  in  Chapel  of  Garioch  parish,  Aber- 
deenshire, 2  miles  N  of  Pitcaple  station.  It  has  a 
branch  of  the  Aberdeen  Town  and  County  Bank. 

Duror,  a  hamlet  and  a  quoad  sacra  parish  in  Lismore 
and  Appin  parish,  Argyllshire.  The  hamlet  stands  on 
the  right  bank  of  Duror  rivulet,  and  on  the  road  from 
Oban  to  Fort  William,  within  1  mile  of  the  shore  of 
Loch  Linnhe,  and  5  miles  WSW  of  Ballachulish.  At  it 
are  a  post  office,  an  inn,  a  public  school,  the  Established 
church  (1826  ;  323  sittings),  and  St  Adamnan's  Episco- 
pal church  (1851  ;  100  sittings).  Fairs  are  held  here  on 
the  Saturdaj-s  before  the  last  AVednesdays  of  May  and 
October.  A  capital  trout-stream,  the  rivulet  Dm'or 
rises  at  an  altitude  of  1800  feet,  and  runs  6  miles  west- 
north-westward  and  west-south-westward  to  the  head  of 
Cuil  Bay.  The  quoad  sacra  parish  is  in  the  2:>resbytery 
of  Lorn  and  synod  of  Argyll ;  the  stipend  is  £120,  with 
manse  and  glebe.  Pop.  (1881)  492.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  53, 
1877. 

Durran.     See  Olrig. 

Durris,  a  Deeside  village  and  parish  of  N  Kincardine- 
shire. The  village,  Kirkton  of  Durris,  stands  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Burn  of  Sheeoch,  immediately  above 
its  confluence  with  the  Dee,  If  mile  E  of  Crathes  station, 
this  being  3  miles  E  by  N  of  Banchory,  and  14  WSW  of 
Aberdeen,  under  which  Durris  has  a  post  office.  Fairs 
are  held  on  the  third  Tuesday  of  January,  February, 
ilarch,  and  April,  the  second  Tuesday  of  May,  the 
Saturday  before  the  second  Wednesday  of  June,  the 
Monday  in  July  before  Paldy  fair,  the  last  Wednesday 
of  September,  the  third  Tuesday  of  October,  o,  s.,  and 
the  third  Tuesday  of  December. 

Tl  e  parish  is  bounded  N  by  Banchory-Ternan  and 
the  Aberdeenshire  portion  of  Drumoak,  E  by  Mary- 
culter,  SE  by  Fetteresso  and  Glenbervie,  W  by  Strachan 
and  Banchory-Ternan.  Its  utmost  length,  from  E  to 
W,  is  6|  miles ;  its  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  varies 
between  3|  and  4|  miles ;  and  its  area  is  15,435  acres, 
of  which  141  are  water.  The  Dee  winds  6  miles 
east-north-eastward  along  all  the  northern  border ; 
and  its  impetuous  affluent,  the  Burn  of  Sheeoch,  rising 
If  mile  beyond  the  south-western  extremity  of  the 
parish,  runs  SJ  miles  north-north-eastward  through 
the  interior.  In  the  NE  the  surface  sinks  along  the 
Dee  to  82  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  south-west- 
ward to  570  feet  near  Corsehill,  865  at  Brunt  Yairds, 
975  at  Strathg3de,  1245  at  Cairn-mon-earn,  1054  at 
Craigbeg,  1232  at  Mongour,  725  at  Cairnshee,  829  at 
Mulloch  Hill,  578  at  the  Ord,  1207  at  Shillofad,  and 
1231  at  Monluth  Hill,  the  last  two  culminating  on  the 
borders  of  the  parish.  Gneiss,  the  predominant  rock, 
often  shows  bare  on  the  hill-sides,  and  forms,  too, 
great  detached  blocks  upon  the  cultivated  lauds.  The 
soil  of  the  low  grounds  is  mostly  a  fertile  loam,  of  the 
higher  grounds  either  clayey  or  gravelly,  the  subsoil 
being  generally  cold  damp  clay  ;  but  great  improve- 
ments have  been  effected  in  the  way  of  drainage  and 
leclamation  within  the  last  40  years.  Nearly  four- 
tifteenths  of  the  entire  area  are  in  tillage  ;  ratlier  more 
than  another  fifteenth  is  under  wood ;  and  the  rest  is 


DUTHIL 

either  pasture,  moss,  moor,  or  waste.  Castle  Hill,  a 
knoll  by  the  Dee,  5  furlongs  NE  of  the  village,  is  engirt 
by  a  ditch,  and  seems  to  have  been  a  military  post ;  in 
various  parts  are  remains  of  cairns,  tumuli,  and 
stone  circles,  which  form  the  subject  of  an  article  in 
Procs.  Sac.  Ants.  Scotl.  (vol.  ii.,  new  series,  1880). 
The  eminent  anticjuary,  Cosmo  Innes  (1798-1874),  was  a 
native.  Excepting  Corsehill  farm,  the  whole  parish  is 
comprised  in  the  Durris  estate,  which,  held  from  the  13th 
century  by  a  branch  of  the  Erasers,  went  by  marriage 
to  the  celebrated  Charles  Mordaunt,  Earl  of  Peterborough 
(1658-1735).  His  daughter  in  1706  married  the  .second 
Duke  of  Gordon,  and  in  1824  the  estate  devolved  upon 
the  fourth  Duke  as  heir  of  entail.  In  1834  it  was  pur- 
chased by  Anthony  Mactier,  late  of  Calcutta  ;  and  in 
1871  it  was  sold  once  more,  for  £300,000,  to  James 
Young,  Esq.,  F.R.S.,  of  Kelly  in  Renfrewshire  (b. 
1811),  who  owns  in  Kincardineshire  16,659  acres, 
valued  at  £10,104.  His  seat,  Durris  House,  stands 
If  mile  E  of  the  village  and  1^  SSE  of  Park  station, 
and,  built  in  the  17th  century,  was  enlarged  both  by 
Mr  Innes'  father  and  by  Mr  Mactier ;  not  far  from  it 
is  Durris  Tower,  erected  in  1825  to  commemorate  the 
Avinning  of  a  lawsuit  by  the  Duke  of  Gordon.  Durris 
is  in  the  presbytery  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  living 
is  worth  £197.  The  parish  church,  at  the  village,  was 
buUt  in  1822,  and  contains  550  sittings.  There  is  also 
a  Free  church  ;  and  two  public  schools,  Dhualt  and 
AVoodlands,  with  respective  accommodation  for  100  and 
130  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  79  and 
92,  and  grants  of  £64,  9s.  6d.  and  £75,  15s.  A'aluation 
(1856)  £6370,  (1882)  £9834,  Os.  lid.  Pop.  (ISOl)  605, 
(1831)  1035,  (1861)  1109,  (1871)  1021,  (1881)  1014.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  66,  1871. 

Durrisdeer.     See  Dueisdeer. 

Dusk.     See  DnuiSK. 

Duthich.     See  DuicH. 

Duthil,  a  hamlet  and  a  parish  of  NE  Inverness-shire. 
The  hamlet,  standing  817  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Dulnan,  is  2|  miles  ENE  of  Carrbridge, 
6|  N  by  W  of  Boat-of-Garden  Junction,  and  7  WSAV  of 
Grantown. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  village  of  Carr- 
BRiDGE  and  the  stations  of  Aviemore  and  Boat-of- 
Garden,  comprises  Duthil  and  Rothieraurchus,  lying 
left  and  right  of  the  Spey,  and  the  former  till  1870 
belonging  to  Elginshire.  It  is  bounded  NE  by  Crom- 
dale  in  Elginshire,  E  by  Abernethy,  SE  by  Crathie- 
Braemar  in  Aberdeenshire  and  by  Alvie,  SW  by  Alvie, 
and  NAV  by  Moy-Dalarossie  and  by  Cawdor  and  Ard- 
clach  in  Nairnshire  ;  and  has  an  utmost  length  of  22§ 
miles  from  N  to  S,  viz.,  from  Carn  Allt  Laoigh  to  a 
point  1§  mile  S  by  E  of  Loch  Eunach,  with  an  utmost 
breadth  from  E  to  AV  of  lOi  miles.  The  Allt  na  Beinne 
Moire,  issuing  from  Lochan  nan  Cnapan,  in  the  extreme 
S  of  Rothieraurchus,  runs  10  miles  northward  through 
Loch  Eunach  and  along  Glen  Eunach,  to  a  confluence 
with  the  Luineag,  coming  3i  miles  west-north-westward 
from  Loch  Morlich  ;  and,  as  the  Druie,  their  united 
waters  flow  1§  mile  west-north-westward  to  the  Spey, 
nearly  opposite  Aviemore  station.  The  Spey  itself  has 
here  a  north-eastward  course  of  12  J  miles — first  2  J  along 
the  Alvie  border,  next  2|  across  the  interior  (parting 
Duthil  from  Rotliiennirchus),  and  lastly  7  along  the 
boundary  with  Abernethy  ;  its  tributary,  the  Duln.\x, 
winds  12^  miles  east-nortli-eastward  through  the  interior, 
then  1^  mile  along  the  Cromdale  border.  The  largest 
of  twelve  lakes  in  Duthil  proper,  with  utmost  length 
and  breadth  and  altitude,  are  Lochs  Mor  (3^x§  furl., 
800  feet)  and  A^ad  (3  x  2i  furl.,  752  feet),  whilst  ten  in 
Rothieraurchus  include  Lochs  Eunach  (10  x  2J  furl., 
1700  feet),  An  Eilein  (7ix4?v  furl.,  840  feet),  Morlich 
(8x5  furl.,  104G  feet),  and  Phitiulais  (5  x  2^  furl.,  674 
i'eet),  the  two  last  lying  mainly  in  Abernethy.  Imme- 
diately along  tlie  Spey  the  surface  sinks  little  below, 
and  little  exceeds,  700  feet  above  the  sea  ;  and  from  NE 
to  SAV,  between  the  Spey  and  the  Dulnan,  the  chief 
elevations,  belonging  to  the  Monadhliath  range,  are 
Creag  an  Fhithich  (1325  feet),  Docharn  Craig  (1244), 

453 


DWARFIE  STONE 

Cam  Lethendy  (1415),  Beinu  Ghuillmicli  (1895),  Carn 
Avie  (1907),  Garbh-mheall  Mor  (ISSO),  Carn  Sleamluiiun 
(2217),  *Cam  Deavg  Mor  (2337),  and  *Cuaigellachie 
(1500),  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  cul- 
minate on  the  borders  of  the  parish.  Beyond  the  Dul- 
uan,  again,  rise  TuUochgriban  High  (1040  feet),  *Carn 
Allt  Laoigh  (1872),  Creag  na  h-Iokire  (1750),  *Carn 
Glas  (2162),  Carn  Dubh  (1409),  luverlaiduan  Hill 
(1511),  *Carn  na  Larach  (1957),  Carn  Aluinn  (1797), 
*Carn  Phris  Mhoir  (2021),  and  *Sgum  an  Mor  (2037). 
And  lastly  from  N  to  S  in  Rothiemurchus  the  principal 
summits,  part  of  the  Cairngorm  group,  are  Cadha  Mor 
(2313),  Carn  Elrick  (2433),  *Castle  Hill  (2366),  Inch- 
riach  (2766),  *Creag  na  Leacainn  (3448),  *Braeriacii 
(4248),  and  *Sgoran  Dubh  (3658).  The  rocks  are 
chiefly  granitic  ;  and  the  arable  soil  along  the  Spey  and 
the  Dulnan  is  mostly  alluvial  on  a  deep  clay  bottom, 
that  of  the  higher  lands  being  thin  and  gravelly,  with  a 
considerable  admixture  of  stones.  The  cultivated  area, 
however,  bears  but  a  small  proportion  to  moorland  and 
deer  forest,  with  miles  upon  miles  of  pinewood,  natural 
or  planted  ;  and  game  has  a  far  higher  value  than  crops 
or  farm-stock,  Rothiemurchus  Forest  alone  letting  for 
£2300  in  1881.  The  Indian  commander,  Gen.  Sir 
Patrick  Grant,  G.  C.  B. ,  G.  C.  M.  G. ,  was  born  in  this  parish 
in  1804.  Mansions  are  the  DouNE  and  Aviemore 
House  ;  and  the  chief  proprietors  are  the  Earl  of  Seatield, 
Sir  John  P.  Grant,  and  the  Duke  of  Richmond  and  Gor- 
don. In  the  presbytery  of  Abernethy  and  synod  of 
Moray,  the  civil  parish  is  divided  into  the  quoad  sacra 
parishes  of  Duthil  and  Rothiem\irchus,  the  stipend  and 
communion  elements  allowance  of  the  former  amounting 
to  £336,  17s.  6d.  Duthil  church  (1826  ;  850  sittings), 
at  the  hamlet,  adjoins  the  splendid  Seatield  Mausoleum 
erected  in  1837  ;  and  Rothiemurchus  church  stands  on 
the  Spey's  right  bank,  2^  miles  SSW  of  Aviemore 
station.  There  are  also  a  Free  church  at  Carrbridge, 
and  the  three  public  schools  of  Deshar,  Duthil,  and 
Rothiemurchus,  the  tirst  two  built  in  1876  at  a  united 
cost  of  £2071.  Witli  respective  accommodation  for  120, 
120,  and  129  children,  these  had  (1880)  an  average  at- 
tendance of  68.  52,  and  55,  and  grants  of  £71,  lis., 
£55,  13s.,  and  £56,  3s.  Valuation  (1843)  £3329, 
13s.  9d.  ;  (1881)  £9753,  17s.  2d.,  of  which  the  Earl  of 
Seafield  owned  £5963,  14s.  Pop.  (1801)  1578,  (1831) 
1895,  (1861)  1928,  (1871)  1872,  (1881)  1664,  of  whom 
1371  belonged  to  Duthil  q.  s.  parish,  and  293  to  that  of 
Rothiemurchus. — Orel.  Sur.,  shs.  74,  64,  1877-74. 

Dwaxfie  Stone,  a  remarkable  block  of  sandstone  in 
Hoy  island,  Orkney,  2  miles  SE  of  the  summit  of  Wart 
Hill.  It  is  18  feet  long,  14  broad,  and  from  2  to  6  high  ; 
and  has  been  hollowed  out  into  three  chambers. 
Whether  a  Troll's  abode,  according  to  the  island  folklore, 
or  a  Christian  hermitage,  according  to  the  antiquaries, 
it  is  woven,  in  Scott's  Pirate,  into  the  story  of  '  Noma 
of  the  Fitful  Head.' 

Dyce,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  SE  Aberdeenshire. 
The  village  lies  near  the  Don's  right  bank,  4|  furlongs 
NNE  of  D3'ce  Junction  on  the  Great  North  of  Scotland, 
this  being  6^^  miles  NW  of  Aberdeen,  under  which  it  has 
a  post  oflice,  with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  rail- 
way telegrapli  departments. 

Bounded  N  by  Fintray,  NE  by  New  Machar,  E  by 
Old  Machar,  S  by  Newhills,  and  W  by  Kinnellar,  the 
parish  has  an  utmost  length  from  E  to  W  of  4g  miles, 
an  utmost  breadth  from  N  to  S  of  3^  miles,  and  an  area  of 
5285^  acres,  of  which  48^  are  water.  The  Don,  winding  6g 
miles  east-south-eastward,  roughly  traces  all  the  Fintray, 
New  Machar,  and  Old  Machar  border,  descending  in  this 
course  from  146  to  104  feet  above  sea-level ;  and  from 
its  broad  level  haugh  the  surface  rises  to  24vl  feet  near 
Farburn  and  822  on  wooded  Tyrebagger  Hill.  Gneiss 
occurs  along  the  valley  of  the  Don  ;  but  the  principal 
rock  is  granite,  which,  suited  alike  for  building  and  for 

1)aving,  has  long  been  worked  for  exportation  to  Loudon. 
?he  soil  of  the  low  grounds  is  a  fertile  alluvium  ;  but, 
on  Tyrebagger,  is  so  thin  and  moorish  as  to  bo  unfit  for 
either  tillage  or  pasture.     Fully  one-half  of  the  entire 
area  is  in  tillage,  extensive  reclamations  having  been 
454 


DYKE 

carried  out  within  the  last  thirty  years  ;  and  plantations 
of  larch  and  Scotch  firs  may  cover  about  one-fourth 
more.  Antiquities  are  several  tumuli  on  small  emi- 
nences ;  an  ancient  Caledonian  stone  circle,  comprising 
ten  rough  granite  stones,  from  5  to  10  feet  high,  and 
8  feet  distant  one  from  another,  on  a  gentle  acclivity  at 
the  SE  side  of  TjTebagger ;  a  large  block  of  granite, 
called  the  Gouk  Stone,  said  to  commemorate  tho 
death  of  some  ancient  leader,  on  the  NE  of  Caskieben  ; 
and  a  large,  oblong,  curiously-sculptured  stone,  in  the 
enclosure-wall  of  the  churchyard.  Pitmedden  and 
Caskieben  are  the  chief  mansions  ;  and  the  property  is 
divided  among  13,  4  holding  each  an  annual  value  of 
£500  and  upwards,  3  of  between  £100  and  £500,  1  of 
from  £50  to  £100,  and  5  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Dyce  is 
in  the  presbytery  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £200.  The  old  parish  church,  of  pre-Reformation. 
date,  standing  inconveniently  in  the  NE,  on  a  rocky 
promontory  ^washed  by  a  bend  of  the  Don,  a  handsome 
new  one  has  been  built,  a  mile  nearer  the  station,  in 
the  course  of  the  last  ten  years,  at  a  considerable  cost. 
There  is  also  a  Free  church  ;  and  a  public  and  an  infant 
and  female  public  school,  with  respective  accommoda- 
tion for  103  and  100  children,  had  (1880)  an  average 
attendance  of  96  and  70,  and  grants  of  £80,  12s.  and 
£61,  2s.  Valuation  (1881)  £5717,  4s.  lOd.  Pop. 
(1801)  347,  (1831)  620,  (1851)  470,  (1861)  585,  (1871) 
945,  (1881)  1162.— Ord  Sur.,  sh.  77,  1873. 

Dye  Water,  a  stream  of  Strachan  parish,  Kincardine- 
shire, rising,  at  an  altitude  of  2000  feet,  on  the  south- 
eastern slope  of  Mount  Battock  (2558  feet),  near  the 
meeting-point  of  Kincardine,  Forfar,  and  Aberdeen 
shires.  Thence  it  winds  7|  miles  eastward  and  7|  miles 
north-by-eastward,  till,  after  a  total  descent  of  1740 
feet,  it  falls  into  the  Feugh,  |  mile  WSW  of  Strachan 
church.  Ti'aversing  a  rocky  Highland  glen  (Glen  Dye), 
it  is  subject  to  sudden  and  violent  freshets,  and  abounds 
in  trout  of  about  ^  lb.  each. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  66,  1871. 

Dye  Water,  a  stream  of  Longforraacus  and  Cranshaws 
parishes,  in  the  Lammermuir  district  of  Berwickshire. 
It  rises,  at  an  altitude  of  1600  feet,  on  the  Haddington- 
shire border,  2^  miles  E  by  S  of  Lanner  Law,  and 
thence  winds  13|  miles  eastward,  till,  after  a  total 
descent  of  1000  feet,  it  falls  into  the  Whitadder,  |  mile 
WSW  of  Ellcm  inn.  A  little  above  Longformacus  vil- 
lage it  receives  Watch  Water,  running  6  miles  east-by- 
uorthward  through  or  along  the  eastern  border  of  the 
southern  section  of  Cranshaws  ;  passes,  higher  up,  the 
curious  old  shooting-box  of  Bykecleuch  ;  and  every- 
where, but  especially  in  its  upper  reaches,  abounds  in 
excellent  ivowt.— Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  33,  1863. 

Dye  Water.    See  West  Water. 

Dyke,  a  village  of  NW  Elginshire,  and  a  parish 
partly  also  in  Nairnshire.  The  village  stands  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Muckle  Burn,  1  mile  NE  of  Brodie 
station  on  the  Highland  railway,  this  being  6  miles  E 
of  Nairn  and  3^  W  by  S  of  the  post-town,  Forres.  On  a 
rising-ground  at  the  N  end  of  the  village  is  the  new 
school,  built  in  1877  at  a  cost  of  over  £1500,  Elizabethan 
in  style,  with  belfry  and  clock-tower. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  of  Kintessack 
and  Broom  of  Moy,  comprises  the  ancient  parishes  of 
Dyke  and  Moy,  united  to  each  other  in  1618.  It  is 
bounded  NW  and  N  by  the  Moray  Firth,  E  by  Kinloss 
and  Forres,  SE  by  Edinkillie,  S\V  by  Ardclach,  and  W 
by  Auldearn.  Rudely  resembling  a  triangle  in  outline, 
with  southward  apex,  it  has  an  utmost  length  from 
NNE  to  SSW  of  9^  miles,  an  utmost  breadth  from  E 
to  W  of  4J  miles,  and  an  area  of  15,464  acres, 
inclusive  of  1496^  acres  of  foreshore  and  257^  of  water, 
but  exclusive  of  29  acres,  to  the  E  of  the  Findhorn, 
belonging  to  Nairnshire  (detached).  Roughly  tracing 
all  the  eastern  boundary,  the  Findhorn  flows  6^ 
miles  north-north-eastward  to  its  mouth  in  the 
Moray  Firth,  just  above  which  it  is  joined  by  the 
Muckle  Burn,  M-iuding  10|  miles  north-eastward 
along  the  Auhlearn  Ijorder  and  through  the  interior. 
Buckie  Loch  (5^  x  IJ  furl.)  lies  close  to  the  coast- 
line, which,  6^  miles  long,  is  everywhere  low,  backed 


DYKEHEAD 


DYSART 


"by  the  Cttlbin  Sandhills  (99  feet).  Inland  the  surface 
is  mostly  low  and  level,  near  Loanhcad  attaining  its 
highest  point  (134  feet)  to  the  N  of  the  railway,  but 
rising  S  thereof  to  105  feet  at  Feddan,  184  near  Logie- 
buchany,  and  500  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
parish,  near  Craigiemore.  Crystalline  rocks  prevail 
from  Sluie  to  the  head  of  the  parish  ;  and  Devonian, 
with  some  belonging  to  later  formations,  in  all  other 
parts.  The  soil  throughout  the  level  central  district  is 
highly  fertile  ;  and  elsewhere  is  of  various  character. 
Less  than  a  fifth  of  the  entire  area  is  in  tillage,  about 
one-thirteenth  is  pasture,  and  the  remainder  is  either 
waste  or  woodlands.  The  latter  cover  a  very  large  ex- 
tent, and  include  some  of  the  finest  trees  in  Scotland. 
Among  those  of  Brodie,  planted  between  1650  and  1680, 
are  three  ash-trees  (the  largest  76  feet  high,  and  girthing 
21  at  1  foot  from  the  ground),  four  oaks  (do.  71,  16), 
five  beeches  (do.  81,  18),  a  sycamore  (69,  12^),  and 
a  Spanish  chestnut  (41,  15) ;  among  those  of  Darnaway, 
two  ash-trees  (the  largest,  50  and  24J),  five  oaks  (do. 
65,  27f),  and  a  beech  (65,  16|) — these  measurements 
being  taken  from  tables  in  Trans.  Ilighl.  and  Ag.  Soc. 
for  1879-81.  Hardmuir,  a  little  WSW  of  Brodie  station, 
is  celebrated  as  the  '  blasted  heath, '  now  planted,  whereon 
Macbeth  met  the  weird  sisters  of  Forres.  Mansions,  all 
noticed  separately,  are  Darnaway  Castle,  Brodie  House, 
Dalvey,  Moy,  and  Kincorth  ;  and  the  parish  is  divided 
among  11  proprietors,  5  holding  each  an  annual  value 
of  £500  and  upwards,  1  of  between  £100  and  £500,  2  of 
from  £50  to  £100,  and  3  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Dyke 
and  Moy  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Forres  and  synod  of 
Moray  ;  the  living  is  vrorth  £400.  The  parish  church, 
built  in  1781,  contains  850  sittings.  There  is  also  a 
Free  church  ;  and  Dyke  and  Kintessack  public  schools, 
■with  respective  accommodation  for  220  and  57  children, 
had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  114  and  36,  and 
grants  of  £100,  3s.  and  £31,  6s.  Valuation  (1881) 
£9059,  of  which  £45  belonged  to  the  Nairnshire  section. 
Pop.  (1801)  1492,  (1831)  1451,  (1861)1247, (1871)  1238, 
(1881)  l-2Z6.—Ord.  Sur.,_  shs.  84,  94,  1876-73. 

Dykehead,  a  village  in  Shotts  parish,  NE  Lanark- 
shire, ^  mile  W  of  Shotts  station.  It  stands  amid  a 
bleak  moorish  country,  but  derives  prosperity  from  ex- 
tensive neighbouring  mineral  works. 

Dykehead,  a  village  in  Old  Monkland  parish,  Lanark- 
shire, IJ  mile  E  of  Baillieston. 

Dykehead,  a  village  in  Cortachy  parish,  NW  Forfar- 
shire, near  the  right  bank  of  the  river  South  Esk,  6 
miles  N  of  Kirriemuir. 

Dykehead.    See  Dullatur. 

D3n:ock,  a  burn  in  Kirkmichael  parish,  Ajrrshire.  It 
issues  from  Shankston  Loch,  on  the  boundary  with 
Straiten  ;  runs  about  4  miles  westward  and  west-south- 
westward  past  Kirkmichael  village  ;  and  falls  into  Girvan 
Water  about  a  mile  NNE  of  Crossbill. 

Dysart.     See  Maryton. 

Dysajt,  a  coast  tovm  and  parish  of  Fife.  A  royal  and 
parliamentary  burgh,  the  to-mi  is  built  on  the  slope  of 
a  hill,  above  the  northern  shore  of  the  Firth  of  Forth, 
10|  miles  NNE  of  Leith  by  water,  whilst  its  station  on 
the  Edinburgh,  Perth,  and  Dundee  section  of  the  North 
British  is  2 J  miles  NE  of  Kirkcald)-,  8  NE  of  Burnt- 
island, 17i  NNE  of  Edinburgh,  2|  S  by  E  of  Thornton 
Junction,  and  16^  SSAV  of  Cupar.  Its  parliamentary 
boundary  includes  the  three  villages  of  Gallatown  (f 
mile  NNW),  Sinclairtown  (f  mile  WNW),  and  Path- 
head  (1  mile  WSW),  which  otherwise  rather  form  a 
north-north-eastward  extension  of  Kirkcaldy,  and 
indeed  were  incorporated  (1876)  in  the  municipal  burgh 
of  that  '  lang  toun  ; '  so  that  here  we  need  trouble  our- 
self  with  little  more  than  the  royal  burgh,  or  Dysart 
I)roper.  This  is  a  place  of  hoar  anticjuity,  its  history 
beginning  with  the  half  mythical  St  Serf,  who  is  said 
to  liave  held  his  famous  discussion  with  Satan  in  a  cave 
in  Lord  Rosslyn's  gi-ounds  above  the  Old  Church,  and 
whose  cell,  the  said  cave  (Lat.  dcsertum,  '  a  solitude '), 
is  supposed  to  have  given  the  town  its  name.  A  stand- 
ing stone,  a  mile  to  the  N,  marks,  says  tradition,  the 
spot  where  a  battle  was  fought  with  invading  Danes  in 


874  ;  in  1470  the  neighbouring  castle  of  Raa'enscraig 
was  granted  by  James  III.  to  William,  third  Earl  of 
Orkney,  ancestor  of  the  St  Clairs  of  Rosslyn.  Under  them 
Dysart  was  a  burgh  of  barony,  till  early  in  the  16th 
century  it  was  raised  to  a  roj-al  burgh  by  James  V.,  who 
further  exempted  it  from  customs'  vassalage  to  Inver- 
keithing.  So  long  ago  as  1450  its  '  canty  carles '  made 
and  shipped  salt  to  home  and  foreign  ports  ;  and  other 
thriving  industries  of  this  '  Little  Holland '  were  fish- 
curing,  malting,  brewing,  and  coal-mining, — thriving, 
at  least,  till  the  Union,  which  dealt  a  great  blow  to 
Dysart,  as  to  all  other  ports  of  Fife.  Modern  Dysart  is 
just  old  Dysart  at  second-hand.  Tlie  arrangement  of 
the  streets — three  narrow  ducts,  uncertain  lanes,  a  few 
scattered  houses  landward,  and  a  central  square — is 
much  the  same  ;  and  many  of  the  old  houses  still  live 
decrepitly  within  the  burgh  bounds.  On  some  are  the 
booth-keepers'  piazza  marks  ;  on  others  half-effaced 
pious  legends  and  dates  ;  elsewhere  Flemish  architecture, 
outside  stairs,  roofs  banked  ■v^dth  grey  stone,  and  such- 
like ■wrinkles  of  antiquity  imprinted  haggardly  on  the 
to^mi.  One  largish  block  of  such  houses,  dating  from 
1660,  was  demolished  in  1876,  to  widen  the  Coalgate ; 
and  some  of  these  contained  deep  hiding-holes  for 
smuggled  goods,  the  contraband  trade  having  arisen  as 
legitimate  commerce  declined.  The  town-hall,  standing 
in  the  middle  of  the  to^vn,  was  built  in  1617,  and  serving 
Cromwell's  troopers  as  both  a  barrack  and  a  magazine, 
was  almost  destroyed  by  an  accidental  explosion.  It 
lay  in  ruins  for  several  years,  and  now  is  a  plain,  strong, 
rubble-work  structm-e,  vdih  a  tower  and  spire,  a  council 
room,  and  a  disused  lock-up.  By  Cromwell,  too,  the 
'  Fort, '  a  high  rock,  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  har- 
bour, is  said  to  have  been  fortified,  though  it  shows  no 
traces  of  fortification  works.  A  fragment  of  an  ancient 
structure,  long  used  as  a  smithy,  bears  the  name  of  St 
Dennis'  Chapel,  and  by  some  is  held  to  have  been  the 
church  of  a  priory  of  Black  Friars,  by  others  to  have 
been  sei-ved  by  a  single  priest.  A  little  to  the  E  of  it 
stand  the  nave  and  saddle-roofed  tower  of  the  ruinous 
kirk  of  St  Serf,  Second  Pointed  in  style,  and  therefore 
a  good  deal  earlier  than  the  date  1570  on  one  of  its  niul- 
lionless  ■windows.  The  present  parish  chm'ch,  erected 
in  1802  at  a  cost  of  £1900,  is  a  very  plain  building, 
containing  1600  sittings.  A  cruciform  Gothic  Free 
church,  rebuilt  in  1873-74,  is  a  solid-looking  edifice, 
■with  a  bulky  broached  spire  ;  and  the  U.P.  church,  also 
Gothic  in  style,  and  also  \vith  a  spire,  is  seated  for  600, 
and  was  rebuilt  in  1867  at  a  cost  of  over  £2500.  Two 
public  schools.  North  and  South  Dysart,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  246  and  291  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  215  and  175,  and  grants  of  £191, 
Is.  6d.  and  £147,  14s.  6d.  The  town  has,  besides,  a 
post  oflice  under  Kirkcaldy,  with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  insurance,  and  telegraph  departments,  a  branch 
of  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  gas-works  (1843),  a  subscription 
reading-room  and  library,  and  fairs  on  6  May,  the  third 
Tuesday  of  June,  the  fourth  Wednesday  of  August,  and 
8  November.  Nail-making,  which  towards  the  close  of 
last  century  employed  100  smiths  and  turned  out  yearly 
twelve  millions  of  nails  of  £2000  value,  had  all  but 
become  extinct  by  1836  ;  but  flax-spinnijig  and  the 
weaving  of  linen  and  woollen 
I'abrics,  which  last,  introduced 
in  1715,  produced  half  a  cen- 
tury since  some  31,000,000  yards 
of  cloth  a  year,  worth  fully 
£150,000,  are  still  carried  on  in 
thiee  establishments,  though  to 
a  smaller  extent.  The  harbour, 
rom  prising  an  outer  basin  and  an 
inner  wet-dock  (once  a  quarry) 
with  18  feet  of  water  and  berth- 
age for  17  or  18  vessels,  is  ample 
enough  for  all  the  scant  com- 
merce Dysart  still  retains,  and  has  a  patent  slip  capable 
of  taking  up  a  ship  of  400  tons  burden.  Governed  by  a 
provost,  a  first  and  second  bailie,  a  treasurer,  a  chamber- 
lain, and  5  councillors,  Dysart  unites  with  Kirkcaldy, 

455 


Seal  of  Uvsart. 


EACHAIG 

Kinghorn,  and  Burntisland  in  returning  a  member  to 
parliament.  Its  parliamentary  constituency  numbered 
1771,  and  its  municipal  399,  in  1882,  when  the  annual 
value  of  real  property  within  the  parliamentary  burgh 
was  £35,156,  10s.  9d.,  whilst  the  corporation  revenue 
for  1881  was  £1152,  3s.  3id.  Pop.  of  royal  burgh  (1831) 
1801,  (1851)  1610,  (1861)*i755,  (1871)  1812,  (1881)  2623 ; 
of  parliamentary  burgh  (1851)  8041,  (1861)  8066,  (1871) 
8919,  (1881)  10,874.  Houses  in  latter  (1881)  2440  in- 
habited, 166  vacant,  15  building. 

The  parish  of  Dysart,  containing  also  Gallatown, 
Sinclairtown,  and  Pathhead,  with  most  of  Boreland 
village,  is  bounded  N  by  Kinglassie,  NE  by  Markinch, 
E  by  Wemyss,  SE  by  the  Firth  of  Forth,  and  W  by 
Kirkcaldy,  Abbotshall,  Auchterderran,  and  Kinglassie. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  NNW  to  SSE,  is  4  miles  ;  its 
width,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  If  and  2| 
miles ;  and  its  area  is  4197  acres.  Lochty  P)urn 
flows  2^  miles  east-by-southward  along  all  the  northern 
boundarj-,  on  its  way  to  the  sluggish  Ore,  which 
itself  ^^ands  3  miles  east-by-northward  across  the 
northern  interior  and  along  the  Markinch  border.  The 
bold  and  rocky  coast-line,  2|  miles  long,  rises  steeply  to 
178  feet  at  the  north-eastern  extremity  of  the  town  ;  in- 
land, the  surface  undulates  gently,  attaining  226  feet 
near  Gallatown,  300  near  Carberry,  271  near  Bogleys,  218 
near  Middle  Balbeiggay,  and  227  near  Wester  Strathore, 
whilst  dipping  slightly  towards  the  above-named  streams. 
The  rocks,  belonging  to  the  Carboniferous  formation,  in- 
clude excellent  sandstone,  claystone,  limestone,  iron- 
stone, and  coal,  all  of  which  have  been  largely  worked. 
As  a  coal  district  Dysart  has  long  been  famous.  Four 
centuries  have  passed  since  first  the  coal  was  worked  in 
sliallow  mines,  the  excavations  increasing  to  their 
present  gigantic  extent.  The  coal  has  been  often  on 
fire  ;  and  in  the  burgh  records  for  1578  we  read  that 
'ane  evil  air  enterit  the  main  heuch,  the  door  being  then 
at  the  west  entrie  of  the  toun.'  This  evil  air  set  the 
mine  on  fire.  Again  and  again  combustion  took  place 
— in  1622,  1741,  and  1790 — Assuring  and  scorching  the 
earth,  causing  Regent  Buchanan  of  St  Andrews  to  wi'ite 
Latin  hexameters  on  its  startling  effects  upon  the 
scenery,  and  giving  commemorative  names  to  streets 
and  lanes  in  the  vicinity.  The  soil  is  generally  good, 
and  the  entire  area  is  in  tillage,  with  the  exception  of  a 


EAGLESHAM 

few  acres  of  pasture  and  some  400  under  wood.  An 
antiquity,  other  than  Ravenscraig  Castle  and  the  stand- 
ing stone,  was  a  so-called  Roman  camp  at  Carberry, 
which,  however,  has  long  since  wholly  disappeared  ;  the 
Red  Rocks,  too,  to  the  E  of  the  town,  are  associated  by 
legend  with  the  burning  of  certain  witches.  Three 
natives  of  Dysart  were  Robert  Beatson  of  Vicarsgrange, 
LL.D.  (1741-1818),  an  author;  David  Pitcairn,  M.D. 
(1749-1809),  an  eminent  physician  ;  and  William  Wal- 
lace (1768-1843),  a  mathematician.  The  title  Earl  of 
Dysart,  conferred  in  1643  on  William  Murray,  sou  of 
the  Rev.  William  Murray,  minister  of  Dysart  and  pre- 
ceptor to  Charles  I. ,  passed  to  his  elder  daughter,  who 
married  first  Sir  Lionel  Tollemache  of  Helmingham 
Hall,  in  Suffolk,  and  secondly  the  celebrated  Duke  of 
Lauderdale  ;  it  now  is  held  by  her  eighth  descendant  by 
her  first  marriage,  William  John  Manners  Tollemache, 
who,  born  in  1859,  succeeded  as  eighth  Earl  in  1878, 
and  has  his  seats  at  Ham  House  in  Surrey  and  Buck- 
minster  Park  in  Leicestershire.  Dysart  House,  a  little 
W  of  the  toAvn,  is  a  plain  but  commodious  mansion, 
with  beautiful  gardens,  commanding  a  splendid  view 
across  the  Firth  ;  and  is  the  Scottish  seat  of  Francis 
Robert  St  Clair  Erskine,  fourth  Earl  of  Rosslyn  since 
1801  (b.  1833  ;  sue.  1866),  who  owns  3221  acres  in  Fife, 
valued  at  £9673  per  annum,  including  £1224  for 
minerals.  (See  Roslin.  )  Six  other  proprietors  hold  each 
an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  17  of  between 
£100  and  £500,  17  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  92  of  from 
£20  to  £50.  Dysart  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcaldy 
and  synod  of  Fife  ;  and  the  charge  is  collegiate  ;  the 
first  minister's  stipend  being  £373  with  manse  and  glebe 
worth  £71,  10s.,  and  the  second's  £317,  8s.  6d.,  whilst 
ecclesiastically  the  parish  is  divided  into  Dysart  proper 
and  Pathhead.  The  four  public  schools  of  Gallatown, 
Pathhead,  Sinclairtown,  and  Boreland,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  205,  375,  300,  and  87  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  240,  361,  379,  and  46,  and 
grants  of  £197,  lis.,  £315,  8s.  6d.,  £331,  12s.  6d.,  and 
£25, 13s.  lid.  Valuation  (1865) £15,489,  8s.  2d.,  (1882) 
£42,707,  9s.  2d.  Pop.  (1801)  5385,  (1831)  7104,  (1861) 
8842,  (1871)  9682,  (1881)  11,627.— Orf^.  Stir.,  sh.  40, 
1867.  See  Notices  from  the  Local  Records  of  Dysart 
(Glasg.,  Maitland  Club,  1853),  and  W.  Muir's  Gleanings 
from  tlie  Records  of  Dysart,  1545-1796  (Edinb.  1862). 


E 


EACHAIG,  a  small  river  in  the  Kilmun  portion  of 
the  united  parish  of  Dunoon  and  Kilmun,  Argyll- 
shire. Issuing  from  the  foot  of  Locli  Eck,  it 
winds  5;|  miles  south-south-eastward  along  Strath 
Eachaig  to  the  head  of  Holy  Loch,  on  its  right  side 
receiving  the  JIassan  near  Bunmore  House  and  the  Little 
Eachaig  very  near  its  mouth,  a  little  higlier  up  being 
spanned  by  an  iron  bridge  of  1878  on  the  Inverary 
route.  It  is  a  very  good  salmon  and  trout  stream, 
let  to  a  Glasgow  Angling  Club. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  29, 
1875. 

Eagerness  or  Eggemess  ('  Edgar's  ness'),  a  headland 
of  Sorbie  parish,  E  Wigtownshire,  flanking  the  N  side 
of  Garliestown  Bay,  6'^  miles  SE  by  S  of  Wigtown.  Pro- 
jecting f  mile  from  the  mainland,  and  contracting  from 
a  width  of  7^  furlongs  to  a  point,  it  rises  to  a  height  of 
100  feet,  and  presents  a  rocky  though  not  precipitous 
face  to  the  sea.  On  its  eastern  side  stood  Eggerness 
Castle,  whose  scanty  ruin  is  so  overgrown  with  brush- 
wood and  rank  vegetation  as  to  be  hardly  discernible. 
Its  date  and  history  are  alike  unknown. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
4,  1857. 
Eagle.     See  Edzell. 

Eaglescamie,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Bolton 

parish,  Haddingtonshire,  on  the  left  bank  of  Gilford  or 

Coalstoun  Water,  4J  miles  S  by  E  of  Hadtlington.     Its 

owner,  Alexander  Charles  Stuart,  Esq.  (b.   1814  ;  sue. 

456 


1855),  holds  465  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £627  per 
annum. 

Eaglesfield,  a  village  in  Middlebie  parish,  Dumfries- 
shire, on  the  right  side  of  Kirtle  Water,  7  furlongs  NNE 
of  Kirtlebridge  station  on  the  Caledonian,  and  2|  miles 
E  of  Ecclefechan,  under  which  it  has  a  post  office,  with 
money  order  and  savings'  bank  departments.  Here  is 
also  a  General  Assembly's  school. 

Eaglesham,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  SE  Renfrewshire. 
The  village,  standing  500  feet,  above  sea-level,  is  4  miles 
S  of  liusby,  8h  S  of  Glasgow,  11  SE  of  Paisley,  and  3|  S 
by  E  of  Clarkston  station  on  the  East  Kilbride  branch 
of  the  Caledonian,  with  which  it  communicates  by 
omnibus.  Successor  to  an  older  village  that  during  the 
reign  of  Charles  II.  was  important  enough  to  acquire  by 
act  of  parliament  a  weekly  market,  it  was  founded  by 
the  twelfth  Earl  of  Eglinton  in  1796,  and,  had  its 
founder's  plan  been  carried  out,  would  have  ranked 
second  to  scarce  a  small  town  in  Scotland.  Even  as  it 
is,  it  presents  a  remarkably  regular  and  pleasant  aspect, 
with  its  double  row  of  neat  two-story  houses,  facing 
each  other  at  the  distance  of  100  yards  at  the  upper  and 
250  at  tlie  lower  end  ;  wliilst  midway  between  them 
flows  a  rivulet,  whose  gently-slo])ing  banks  are  partly 
greensward,  partly  adorned  with  trees.  The  parish 
cliurch  (1790  ;  550  sittings)  is  a  plain  structure  with 
a  chaste   steeple  ;   and  other  places  of  worship  are  a 


EA6LESHA7 

U.P.  church  (350  sittings),  a  Free  church  (320  sittings), 
and  St  Bridget's  Roman  Catholic  church  (1858  ;  350 
sittings).  Eaglesham  has  besides  a  post  office  under 
Glasgow,  a  branch  of  the  Clydesdale  Bank,  2  hotels, 
gas-works,  and  a  flower  show  on  the  third  Thursday  of 
August  o.s.  Handloom  weaving,  once  the  staple  in- 
dustry, is  all  but  extinct ;  and  a  cotton -mill,  some 
j'ears  ago  destroyed  by  fire,  has  never  been  rebuilt. 
Hence  the  rapid  decrease  in  the  number  of  the  inhabit- 
ants. Now,  however,  the  bracing  and  healthy  air  is 
proving  a  strong  attraction  to  many  Glasgow  families, 
and  in  summer  there  is  a  large  influx  of  visitors.  A 
public  and  a  girls'  industrial  school,  with  respective 
accommodation  for  166  and  150  children,  had  (1880)  an 
average  attendance  of  125  and  52,  and  grants  of  £109, 
7s.  lOd.  and  £39,  2s.  Pop.  (1861)  1769,  (1871)  1237, 
(1881)  885. 

The  parish  is  bounded  NW  by  Mcarns,  NE  by  Cath- 
cart  and  East  Kilbride  in  Lanarkshire,  E  and  SE  by 
East  Kilbride,  S  by  Loudoun  in  AjTshire,  and  SW  by 
Fenwick,  likewise  in  Ayrshire.  Its  utmost  length,  from 
NW  to  SE,  is  6 J  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  NE 
to  SW,  is  5^  miles ;  and  its  area  is  16,003|  acres,  of 
•which  3371  are  water.  White  Cart  Water,  gathering 
its  head-streams  from  the  eastern  moors,  winds  5^  miles 
north-westward  along  all  the  north-eastern  border  ;  and 
Eakn  Water  flows  to  it  north-eastward  along  the  boun- 
dary with  Mearns ;  whilst  through  the  interior  run 
Ardoch  and  Boreland  Burns,  with  others  of  its  tribu- 
taries. In  the  S,  however,  rise  several  affluents  and 
sub-afiluents  of  the  river  Irvine.  To  the  SW  lie  Binend 
Loch  (5x2  furl.),  Dunwan  Dam  (7 J  x  3),  and  Loch 
GoiN  or  Blackwater  Dam  (7x3);  nearer  the  village  are 
High  Dam  (If  x  1^),  Mid  Dam  (1  x  f ),  and  Picketlaw 
Reservoir  (2  x  1^).  In  the  furthest  N  the  surface  sinks 
along  the  Cart  to  380  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising 
to  832  at  Moor-Yett  plantation,  1084  at  Balagich  Hill, 
1035  at  Blackwood  Hill,  987  at  Melowther  Hill,  and 
1230  near  the  south-eastern  border.  The  rocks,  with 
slight  exception,  are  alternations  of  greenstone,  clay- 
stone,  and  greywacke— part  of  the  great  trap  mass  that 
predominates  so  extensively  in  the  hills  of  Renfrewshire. 
The  soil,  though  reposing  almost  everywhere  on  trap, 
varies  greatly  in  quality,  some  parts  being  specially  rich, 
and  others  being  represented  b)'-  barren  moors  or  deep 
bogs.  The  pasture  is  generally  excellent.  About  five- 
twelfths  of  the  entire  area  are  under  cultivation,  three- 
fourteenths  are  meadow  or  natural  pasture,  178|  acres 
are  under  wood,  and  all  the  rest  is  either  moss  or 
moor.  The  moors,  especially  about  Loch  Goin,  figure 
often  in  the  history  of  the  Covenant,  two  of  whose 
martyrs  rest  in  the  parish  kirkyard.  North  Moorhouse 
farm,  near  Earn  Water,  3  miles  to  the  W  of  the  village, 
was  the  birthplace  of  Robert  Pollok  (1799-1827),  the 
gifted  author  of  the  Course  of  Tune ;  and  in  that  epic 
one  lights  again  and  again  on  sketches  of  the  '  hills  and 
streams  and  melancholy  deserts '  round  his  home,  that 
home  overshadowed  by  four  goodly  trees — 

'  Three  ash  and  one  of  elm.    Tall  trees  they  were, 
And  old ;  and  had  been  old  a  century 
Before  my  day.' 

The  barony  of  Eaglesham  formed  part  of  the  grant  made 
by  David  I.  (1124-53)  to  Walter,  the  founder  of  the 
house  of  Stewart,  by  whom  it  was  transferred  to  Robert 
de  Montgomery ;  and  it  was  long  the  Montgomeries' 
chief  possession,  Sir  John,  who  wedded  the  heiress  of 
Eglixton,  here  building  the  castle  of  Polxoon  towards 
the  close  of  the  14th  century.  Eaglesham  House, 
late  Polnoon  Lodge,  to  the  NE  of  the  village,  is 
the  seat  of  Allan  Gilmour,  Esq.  (b.  1820  ;  sue.  1849), 
who  owns  16,516  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £12,106 
per  annum.  With  the  exception  of  10  acres,  he  is  sole 
proprietor.  Eaglesham  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Glasgow 
and  synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr ;  the  living  is  worth 
£369.  Valuation  (1860)  £11,350,  (1882)  £14,731, 12s.  6d. 
Pop. (1801) 1176,  (1831)  2372, (1851)  2524,  (1861)  2328, 
(1871)  1714,  (1881)  1382.— Cz-c^.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Eagleshay  or  Egilshay,  a  low-lying  island  of  Rousay 
parish,   Orkney,  separated  I'rom  the  E  side  of  Rousay 


EAELSFERB7 

island  by  Howa  Sound,  and  lying  11  miles  N  of  Kirk- 
wall. It  measures  3  miles  in  length  from  N  to  S, 
by  1^  mile  in  breadtli,  and  includes  a  small  bay  of 
shell  sand,  a  large  tract  of  benty  sand,  burrowed  by 
hundreds  of  rabbits,  and  a  small  fresh-water  lake.  The 
rocks  belong  to  the  Lower  Old  Red  sandstone,  and  the 
soil  is  good,  but  poorly  cultivated.  Dr  Baikie  of  Tanker- 
ness  is  the  proprietor.  Eagleshay  is  notable  as  the 
place  where  St  Magnus  was  murdered  by  his  cousin 
Hakon  about  the  year  1110  ;  and  at  its  western  ex- 
tremity, on  the  scene,  it  is  said,  of  his  murder,  are  the 
remains  of  a  small  ancient  church  of  St  Magnus,  with  a 
round  tower  at  its  W  end,  and  a  vaulted  choir  at  the  E. 
There  is  a  public  school  under  Rousay  school-board. 
Pop.  (1831)  228,  (1851)  192,  (1861)  205,  (1871)  163, 
(1881)  158. 

Eagleshay  or  Egilshay,  an  island  of  Northmaven 
parish,  Shetland,  in  Islesburgh  cove,  on  the  E  of  St 
Magnus  Bay.  It  measures  about  1^  mile  both  in  length 
and  in  breadth,  is  excellent  grazing-ground,  and  teems 
with  rabbits. 

Eagton  or  Eglin  Lane,  a  troutful  stream  in  the  SE  of 
Straiten  parish,  Ayrshire.  Issuing  from  Loch  Enoch 
(1650  feet),  at  the  boundary  with  Kirkcudbrightshire, 
it  runs  61  miles  north-north-eastward  to  the  head  of 
Loch  Doon  (680  feet),  and  receives  by  the  way  the 
efiiuents  of  Lochs  Macaterick  and  RiecawT. 
Ealan.     See  Ellan. 

Eanaig  or  Einig,  a  stream  in  Kincardine  parish,  Ross- 
shire,  formed  by  the  confluence  of  Rappach  Water  and 
Abhuinn  Dubhach,  and  running  4  miles  east-north- 
eastward to  the  Oykell,  at  a  point  |  mile  SE  of  Oykell- 
Bridge.  It  is  a  good  trouting  stream,  also  frequented 
by  grilse. —Orc^.  Hur.,  sh.  102,  1881. 
Earbusaig.    See  Lochalsh. 

Earlcaimey,  a  dilapidated  cairn  in  Dalmeny  parish, 
Linlithgowshire,  on  the  top  of  a  high  sea-bank,  1  mile 
W  of  Barnbougle  Castle.  It  was  originally  500  feet  in 
circumference,  and  24  feet  high. 

Earl's  Bum,  a  rivulet  in  the  W  of  St  Ninians  parish, 
Stirlingshire,  rising  at  an  altitude  of  1300  feet,  just 
within  the  confines  of  Gargunnock  parish.  Thence  it 
runs  6^  miles  south-south-eastward  among  the  Lennox 
Hills,  till,  after  a  total  descent  of  550  feet,  it  falls  into 
Carron  Water  at  the  SW  base  of  Dundaif  Hill  (1157 
feet),  5J  miles  W  by  N  of  Denny.  A  reservoir,  feeding 
the  mills  of  Denny,  was  formed  near  its  source,  about 
1834,  by  means  of  an  embankment  22  feet  high,  at  a 
cost  of  close  upon  £2000 ;  covers  an  area  of  nearly  60 
acres;  and,  in  October  1839,  after  a  heavy  rain,  burst 
the  embankment,  rushed  down  in  impetuous  torrent, 
and  did  great  damage  to  property  along  all  the  course 
of  the  Carron.— Or-d  Sur.,  shs.  39,  31,  1869-67. 
Earl's  Cross.    See  Dornoch. 

Earlsferry,  a  decayed  coast  village  possessing  the  status 
of  a  royal  burgh,  in  Kilconquhar  parish,  Fife,  immedi- 
ately W  of  Elie.  It  is 
traditionally  said  to  have 
been  constituted  a  burgh 
by  Malcolm  Ceannmor 
at  the  request  of  Mac- 
duft;  Earl  of  Fife,  who, 
in  his  flight  from  the 
vengeance  of  ilacbeth, 
was  concealed  in  a  cave 
at  Kincraig  Point,  and 
thence  was  ferried  over 
the  firth  to  Dunbar  by 
fishermen  of  the  place. 
The  legend  on  the  face 
of  it  is  false  ;  but,  what- 
ever its  date,  the  original 
charter  having  been  ac- 
cidentally destroyed  by  fire  in  Edinburgh,  James  VI. 
granted  a  new  one  in  1589,  which  speaks  of  Earls- 
ferry as  '  of  old,  past  memory  of  man,  erected  into  ane 
free  burgh.'  Then  and  afterwards  it  seems  to  have 
been  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  with  two  weekly 
markets  and  two  annual  fairs,  the  privilege  of  levying 

457 


Seal  of  Earlsferry. 


EAULSHALL 

dues  and  customs,  and  the  right  of  returning  a  member 
to  Parliament.  These  are  all  things  of  the  past ;  but 
Earlsferry  still  is  governed  by  a  chief  magistrate,  a 
bailie,  a  treasurer,  and  six  councillors,  and  has  its  new 
town-hall  (1872),  a  branch  of  the  National  Bank,  a 
local  savings'  bank,  a  gas  company,  and  a  public  school. 
The  annual  value  of  real  property  was  £924,  lis.  in 
1882,  when  the  municipal  constituency  numbered  45, 
whilst  the  corporation  revenue  for  1881  was  £86.  Pop. 
(1841)  496,  (1861)  395,  (1871)  406,  (1881)  286.  See 
Elie. 

Earlshall,  an  ancient  mansion  in  Leuchars  parish, 
Fife,  7  furlongs  ESE  of  Leuchars  village.  Said  to  have 
been  named  from  a  former  estate  of  the  Earls  of  Fife, 
it  was  built  in  years  from  1546  till  1620,  and  was  for 
generations  the  seat  of  the  family  of  Bruce.  It  mainly 
consists  of  a  square  tower,  and  it  contains  a  great  hall, 
50  feet  long  and  18  wide,  with  a  fine  arched  roof,  on 
which  are  emblazoned  the  arms  of  the  Bruces  and  of 
numerous  great  houses  with  which  they  were  allied  by 
marriage.  It  continued  to  be  inhabited  down  into  the 
present  century,  and  it  stands  in  a  small  park,  planted 
with  venerable  trees. 

Earl's  Hill,  one  of  the  Lennox  Hills  in  the  W  of  St 
Ninians  parish,  Stirlingshire,  6  miles  SW  of  Stirling. 
It  rises  to  an  altitude  of  1443  feet  above  sea-level,  and 
adjoins  other  summits  of  not  much  inferior  height. 

Earlsmill,  a  station  in  Keith  parish,  Banftshire,  on 
the  Keith,  Dufl'town,  and  Craigellachie  section  of  the 
Great  North  of  Scotland  railway,  |  mile  SSW  of  Keith 
station. 

Earl's  Seat,  a  hill  at  the  meeting-point  of  Killearn, 
Campsie,  and  Strathblane  parishes,  Stirlingshire.  The 
highest  of  the  Lennox  range,  it  culminates,  3  miles  N 
by  E  of  Strathblane  village,  at  an  altitude  of  1894  feet 
above  sea-level.  Southward  it  projects  an  offshoot 
called  the  Little  Earl ;  on  E  and  AV  it  is  flanked  by  two 
hills  of  1345  and  1781  feet  in  height ;  and  it  sends  off 
from  its  southern  slopes  Finglen  and  Ballagan  Burns. — 
Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  30,  1866. 

Earlston,  a  small  town  and  a  parish  of  Lauderdale,  SW 
Berwickshire.  The  town  stands,  345  feet  above  sea-level, 
near  the  left  bank  of  Leader  Water,  at  the  western 
confines  of  the  parish,  by  road  being  4  miles  NNE  of 
Melrose,  7i  SSE  of  Lauder,  and  31  SE  of  Edinburgh  ; 
whilst  its  station  on  the  Berwickshire  section  of  the 
North  British  is  4^  miles  N  by  AV  of  St  Boswells 
Junction,  and  17^  WSW  of  Dunse.  Its  ancient  church, 
in  connection  with  which  the  town  in  all  probability 
arose  and  grew  into  any  importance,  was  granted  about 
the  middle  of  the  12th  century  by  Walter  de  Lindsay  to 
the  monks  of  Kelso,  and  by  them  was  transferred  in 
1171,  in  exchange  for  Gordon,  to  their  brethren  of 
Coldingham,  who  continued  to  watch  over  it  and  the 
spiritual  interests  at  stake  in  the  district  on  to  the  time 
of  the  Reformation.  Situated,  as  it  is,  not  far  from 
Dryburgh  and  Melrose  Abbeys,  it  appears  to  have  been 
in  early  times  a  place  of  some  importance — ecclesiastical 
probably,  to  judge  from  the  reported  occasional  visits 
of  David  I.  of  pious  memory.  From  the  family  of 
Lindsay  the  manor  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Earls 
of  Dunbar,  and  hence  the  older  name  of  Ercildounc 
came  to  be  changed  to  Earlstoun  or  Earlston.  Under 
its  present  superior,  the  Earl  of  Haddington,  the  town 
is  governed  by  a  baron  bailie  ;  and  courts  are  still  held 
in  it,  consisting  of  two  '  bourlawmeu,'  a  survival  this  of 
the  ancient  border  '  Birley  Courts.'  Its  chief  historical 
interest,  however,  centres  in  the  memorials  and  tradi- 
tions which  connect  it  with  Thomas  the  Rhymer,  a  stone 
embedded  in  the  wall  of  the  parish  church  bearing  in- 
scription, 'Auld  Rhymer's  race  lies  in  this  place.' 
'  Thomas  Rimor  do  Ercildun '  appears  as  witness  to  a 
charter  of  Petrus  de  Haga  to  Dryburgh  Abbey,  which 
charter  Mr  John  Russell,  in  his  Ilairjs  of  Bcmersyde 
(1881),  assigns  to  somewhere  between  1260  and  1270  ; 
and  a  fragment  of  the  '  Rhymer's  To\v(M'  '  still  stands  be- 
tween the  town  and  Leader  Water.  He  seems  to  have 
been  dead  by  1299  ;  and  a  JIS.  of  the  early  part  of  the 
14th  century,  supposed  by  Prof.  Veitch  to  be  earlier  than 
458 


EARLSTON 

1320,  contains  what  was  said  to  be  one  of  his  predic- 
tions, many  of  which  are  scattered  through  this  work 
under  Ale,  Bass,  Cowdenknowes,  Criffel,  etc.  He 
has  been  styled  the  '  Father  of  Scottish  poetry,'  and  his 
claim  to  the  title  would  rest  on  secure  foundation,  if 
only  one  could  positively  ascribe  to  him  the  authorship 
of  Sir  Tristrem,  and  of  the  three-fytte  Prophecy,  best 
known  in  its  ballad  versions.  These  tell  how,  as  he  lay 
on  Huntly  Bank,  the  Fairy  Queen  rode  by  on  a  milk- 
white  palfrey,  and  how,  having  kissed  her  under  the 
Eildon  tree,  he  was  taken  by  her  to  Elfland,  where 
through  the  bite  of  an  apple  he  gained  a  perilous 
guerdon,  the  tongue  that  could  never  lie.  Seven 
years  he  tarried  in  Elfland,  and  then  was  permitted 
to  revisit  earth  only  on  the  condition  that  he  should, 
when  summoned,  return  to  his  mistress  the  queen. 
And  so,  as  he  sat  one  evening  carousing  in  his  tower 
with  some  boon  companions,  a  messenger  rushed  in,  in 
breathless  haste,  to  beg  him  to  come  forth  and  break 
the  spell  of  a  portent  which  troubled  the  village. 
Straightway  the  Rhymer  obeyed  the  summons,  and 
hurrying  out  saw  a  hart  and  a  hind  from  the  neigh- 
bouring forest  pacing  slow  and  stately  up  and  down 
the  street.  The  animals  at  sight  of  him  quietl}^  made 
off  for  the  forest ;  and,  with  a  last  farewell  to  Ercil- 
doune.  True  Thomas  followed  them,  thenceforth  to 
'  dree  his  weird '  in  Fairyland.  Nor,  though  the  voice 
of  tradition  predicts  his  return  to  earth,  has  he  ever 
again  been  seen  in  the  haunts  of  living  men.  (See 
EiLDON  Hills.)  His  spirit,  however,  appears  to 
have  lingered  in  the  tower  he  left,  for  his  mantle  was 
reputed  to  have  descended  on  the  shoulders  of  'one 
Murray,  a  kind  of  herbalist,  who,  by  dint  of  some 
knowledge  of  simples,  the  possession  of  a  musical  clock, 
an  electrical  machine,  and  a  stuffed  alligator,  added  to 
a  supposed  communication  with  Thomas,  lived  for 
many  years  in  very  good  credit  as  a  wizard.'  So  Sir 
Walter  in  his  Scottish  Minstrelsy ;  but  Mr  Robert 
Chambers,  in  Pojmlar  Rhymes  of  Scotland,  shows  that 
this  hearsay  account  refers  to  Mr  Patrick  Murray,  an 
enlightened  and  respectable  medical  practitioner,  of 
good  family  connections,  talents,  and  education,  who, 
in  1747,  possessed,  with  other  property,  the  Rhymer's 
Tower,  and  there  pursued  various  studies  of  a  philo- 
sophical kind,  not  very  common  in  Scotland  during  the 
ISth  century. 

The  town  extends  eastward  at  right  angles  to  Leader 
Water,  and  consists  of  plain  business  premises  and  dwell- 
ing-houses, many  of  the  latter  only  one  story  high. 
It  is  lighted  with  gas,  well  drained,  supplied  with  good 
water,  and  beautifully  situated  in  a  pleasant  valley  en- 
girt by  hills  of  moderate  elevation.  The  inhabitants 
are  dependent  partly  on  agriculture,  partly  on  dyeing 
and  on  the  manufacture  of  woollen  and  other  textures, 
such  as  tweeds,  shirtings,  and  '  Earlston  ginghams.' 
The  town  has  a  post  office  under  Melrose,  with  money 
order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  departments,  a 
branch  (1862)  of  the  Commercial  Bank,  8  insurance 
agencies,  2  hotels,  a  spacious  corn  exchange,  a  reading- 
room  and  liln-ary  (1856),  horticultural  and  friendly 
societies,  billiard  and  curling  clubs,  and  a  volunteer 
corps.  A  weekly  grain  market  on  Monday  was  in- 
stituted at  the  opening  of  the  Berwickshire  railway  in 
1863,  a  fortnightly  stock  sale  in  1864  ;  and  cattle  and 
horse  fairs  are  held  on  29  June  and  the  third  Thursday 
of  October,  besides  hiring  fairs  on  the  last  Monday  of 
February,  the  first  Monday  of  April,  and  the  Monday 
before  the  third  Thursday  of  October.  The  parish 
church  of  1756,  as  renewed  and  enlarged  in  1834,  con- 
tains 600  sittings.  There  are  also  two  U.P.  churches — 
the  East  (400  sittings)  and  the  West  (330  sittings). 
Pop.  (1861)  980, (1871) 1168, (1881)  1010. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  hamlet  of  Redpath, 
is  bounded  N  by  Legerwood  and  Gordon,  E  by  Humo 
and  Nenthorn,  S  by  Smailholm  in  Roxljurghsliire  and 
by  Murton,  and  W  by  Melrose  in  Roxburglishire.  Its 
length,  from  E  to  W,  varies  between  1|  and  7  miles; 
its  utmost  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  3|  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  10,009^  acres,  of  which  41  are  water.      Leadeb 


EARLSTON 

"Water  winds  4|  miles  southward,  for  the  first  5  furlongs 
cutting  off  a  small  north-western  wing  of  Earlston,  but 
elsewhere  tracing  its  boundary  with  Melrose  ;  and  Edex 
"Water  runs  3^  miles  south-by-westward  along  all  the 
Nenthorn  border.  Between  these  troutful  streams  the 
surface  rises — in  places  steeply  from  the  Leader — to  825 
feet  on  Huntshaw  Hill,  708  near  Crossrigs,  1031  on 
conical  Black  Hill  of  Earlston,  885  near  Craig  House, 
and  806  near  Darlingfield.  Black  Hill  is  porphyritic, 
overlying  red  sandstone  ;  and  at  the  E  end  of  Earlston 
the  pelvis  and  other  bones  of  the  Ccrvus  dcqjkus  have 
been  found,  12  feet  from  the  surface,  in  a  vegetalde 
deposit,  above  which  were  marly  and  reddish  clays.  The 
soil  is  in  some  parts  clayey,  in  others  a  light  dry  loam  ; 
while  elsewhere  it  is  strong  and  very  fertile.  There 
is  a  good  deal  of  marshy  ground  in  the  E,  and  in  the  N  are 
several  hundred  acres  of  moss.  About  two -thirds  of  the 
entire  area  are  in  tillage,  woodlands  cover  nearly  one- 
ninth,  and  the  rest  is  either  pastoral  or  waste.  On  the 
summit  of  Black  Hill  are  the  remains  of  a  camp, 
commonly  said  to  be  Roman,  but  probably  of  native 
origin.  Mansions  are  Mellerstain,  Cowdenknowes, 
Carolside,  and  Kirklands  ;  and  the  Earl  of  Haddington 
is  chief  proprietor,  2  others  holding  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  8  of  from  £100  to  £500, 
11  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  29  of  from  £20  to  £50. 
Earlston  is  the  seat  of  a  presbytery  n  the  synod  of  Merse 
and  Teviotdale,  which  was,  till  recently,  for  an  interval 
of  a  century,  designated  the  presbytery  of  Lauder  ;  the 
living  is  worth  £298.  A  new  public  school,  erected  at 
the  town  in  1876  at  a  cost  of  £2470,  with  accommodation 
for  323  pupils,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  215, 
and  a  grant  of  £204,  14s.  6d.  "Valuation  (1864)  £11,119, 
(1882)  £14,022,  10s.  Pop.  (1801)  1478,  (1831)  1710, 
(1861)  1825,  (1871)  1977,  (1881)  1767.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
25,  1865. 

The  presbytery  of  Earlston  comprises  the  parishes  of 
Channelkirk,  Earlston,  Gordon,  Lauder,  Legerwood, 
Mertoun,  Smailholm,  Stow,  and  "Westruther.  Pop. 
(1871)  10,212,  (1881)  9503,  of  whom  2972  were  communi- 
cants of  the  Church  of  Scotland  in  1878. 

See  an  article  by  G.  Tait  in  Procs.  Berwickshire  Natu- 
ralists' Cluh  (1867) ;  Dr  J.  A.  H.  Murray's  Romance  and 
Pro2)hecies  of  Thomas  of  Ercildoune  (Early  Eng.  Text 
Soc.  1875) ;  and  chap.  viii.  of  Prof.  John  "V^eitch's 
History  and  Poetry  of  the  Scottish  Border  (1878). 

Eaxlston,  a  mansion  in  Borgue  parish,  S  Kirkcud- 
brightshire, 4|  miles  "WS"W  of  Kirkcudbright,  and  5 
SSE  of  Gatehouse.  A  large  and  elegant  edifice,  built 
about  1835,  and  embosomed  among  woods,  it  is  the 
seat  of  Sir  "William  Gordon,  sixth  Bart,  since  1706  (b. 
1830  ;  sue.  1843),  who  was  one  of  the  'Five  Hundred' 
in  the  famous  Balaclava  charge,  and  who  owns  765 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £1179  per  annum. 

Earlston,  an  old  castle  and  a  burn  in  Dairy  parish,  N 
Kirkcudbrightshire.  The  castle,  standing  near  the  left 
bank  of  the  Ken,  2  miles  N  by  AV  of  Dairy  village,  has 
the  form  of  a  tall  square  towei-,  and  bears  over  its  door 
the  date  1655.  It  was  the  seat  of  Sir  "William  Gordon's 
ancestors,  who  figured  prominently  among  the  Cove- 
nanters ;  has  long  been  unoccupied,  but  retains  a  .strong 
oaken  roof ;  and  might  easily  be  rendered  habitable. 
Earlston  Burn  runs  4  miles  south-westward  to  the  Ken, 
and,  in  the  southern  vicinity  of  the  castle,  makes  a  fine 
waterfall,  called  Earlston  Linn. 

Earn,  a  rivulet  of  SE  Renfrewshire,  rising  at  the 
boundary  with  Ayrshire,  and  running  6  miles  north- 
eastward along  the  mutual  border  of  Eaglesham  and 
Mearns  parishes  to  the  "White  Cart,  at  a  point  2  miles 
N  of  Eaglesham  village.  Professor  Wilson,  while  a 
pupil  at  the  manse  of  Mearns,  fished  often  in  its  waters; 
and  Pollok,  the  author  of  the  Course  of  Time,  spent  a 
large  portion  of  his  few  years  on  earth  among  its  seques- 
tered banks  and  braes. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  22,  1865. 

Earn,  a  loch  and  a  river,  giving  the  name  of  Strath- 
earn  to  its  basin.  The  lake  impinges,  at  its  head,  on 
Balquhidder  parish,  but  elsewhere  belongs  to  the 
western  or  upper  part  of  Comrie.  It  commences 
near  Lochearnhead  village,  at  the  foot  of  Glen  Ogle  ; 


EARN 

is  approached  there  by  the  Callander  and  Oban  Railway; 
and  extends  in  a  direction  of  E  by  N  to  the  village  of 
St  Fillans.  Lying  306  feet  above  sea-level,  it  is  6^ 
miles  long  ;  its  breadth  varies  between  Z^  and  6^  fur- 
longs ;  and  its  depth,  in  many  places,  is  600  feet.  Its 
temperature  varies  so  little  throughout  the  year  that, 
not  only  does  the  lake  itself  never  freeze,  even  in  the 
keenest  frost,  but  the  river  Earn,  which  flows  from  it, 
seldom,  if  ever,  freezes  till  it  has  run  a  distance  of  at 
least  5  miles.  Its  waters  contain  abundance  of  fine 
trout,  and  can  be  fished  conveniently  from  either  Loch- 
earnhead or  St  Fillans.  Its  shores  and  foreground 
screens,  to  the  mean  breadth  of  about  ^  mile,  are 
clothed  with  wood  ;  its  raidground  screens  are  a  diver- 
sity of  waving,  rolling,  receding  hill  and  mountain 
intersected  by  ravines ;  and  its  sky-line  on  the  S 
side  soars  into  the  broken  fantastic  heights  of  Stuc-a- 
Chroin  (3819  feet)  and  the  monarch  mountain  of  Ben 
"Vorlich  (3224),  whilst  to  the  N  rises  Sron  Mor  (2203). 
Streamlets  and  torrents  enter  it  from  the  ravines,  and  one 
of  them — the  Burn  of  Ample,  near  Lochearnhead — ^just 
before  entering  it,  forms,  in  the  grounds  of  Edinample, 
a  picturesque  double  waterfall.  Ardvoirlich  House, 
on  its  southern  shore,  has  beautiful  grounds,  and  is  the 
'  Darnlinvarach '  of  Sir  "Walter  Scott's  Legend  of  Mont- 
rose ;  and  its  one  islet,  Neish,  near  its  foot,  is  clothed 
with  wood,  and  has  curious  historical  associations. 
Good  roads  go  down  both  sides  of  the  lake,  and  each 
commands  a  pleasing  series  of  views ;  but  only  the 
northern  one  is  travelled  by  public  coaches,  though  the 
southern  commands  the  finer  prospects.  The  scenery, 
on  the  whole,  is  more  charming  than  imposing,  more 
beautiful  than  grand,  yet  compares  advantageously 
■with  the  scenery  of  other  admired  lakes,  and  has  features 
of  at  once  picturesqueness,  romance,  and  sublimity. 
'  Limited  as  are  the  dimensions  of  Loch  Earn,'  says  Dr 
Macculloch,  '  it  is  exceeded  in  beauty  by  few  of  our  lakes, 
as  far  as  it  is  possible  for  many  beauties  to  exist  in  so 
small  a  space.  I  ■will  not  say  that  it  presents  a  great 
number  of  distinct  landscapes  adapted  for  the  pencil, 
but  such  as  it  does  possess  are  remarkable  for  their  con- 
sistency of  character,  and  for  a  combination  of  sweet- 
ness and  simplicity  with  a  grandeur  of  manner  scarcely 
to  be  expected  within  such  narrow  bounds.  Its  style  is 
that  of  a  lake  of  far  greater  dimensions  ;  the  hills  which 
bound  it  being  lofty  and  bold  and  rugged,  with  a 
variety  of  character  not  found  in  many  of  even  far 
greater  magnitude  and  extent.  It  is  a  miniature  and  a 
model  of  scenery  that  might  well  occupy  ten  times  the 
space  ;  yet  the  eye  does  not  feel  this.  There  is  nothing 
trifling  or  small  in  the  details  ;  nothing  to  diminish  its 
grandeur  of  style,  to  tell  us  that  we  are  contemplating  a 
reduced  copy.  On  the  contrary,  there  is  a  perpetual 
contest  between  our  impressions  and  our  reasonings. 
"We  know  that  a  few  short  miles  comprehend  the  whole, 
and  yet  we  feel  as  if  it  was  a  landscape  of  many  miles,  a 
lake  to  be  ranked  among  those  of  the  fijst  order  and 
dimensions.  "While  its  mountains  rise  in  majestic  sim- 
plicity to  the  sky,  terminating  in  those  bold  and  various 
and  rocky  outlines  which  belong  to  so  much  of  the 
geological  line  from  Dunkeld  to  Killiecrankie— even  to 
Loch  Katrine,  the  surfaces  of  the  declivities  are  equally 
various  and  bold,  enriched  with  precipices  and  masses 
of  protruding  rock,  with  deep  hollows  and  ravines,  and 
with  the  courses  of  innumerable  torrents  which  pour  from 
above,  and,  as  they  descend,  become  skirted  with  trees 
till  they  lose  themselves  in  the  waters  of  the  lake. 
Wild  woods  also  ascend  along  the  surface  in  all  that 
irregularity  of  distribution  so  peculiar  to  these  rocky 
mountains, — less  solid  and  continuous  than  at  Loch 
Lomond,  less  scattered  and  less  romantic  than  at  Loch 
Katrine,  but,  from  these  very  causes,  aiding  to  confer 
on  Loch  Earn  a  character  entirely  its  own.  If  the 
shores  of  the  lake  are  not  deeply  marked  by  bays  and 
promontories,  still  they  are  sufficiently  varied ;  nor  is 
there  one  point  where  the  hills  reach  the  water  in  that 
meagre  and  insipid  manner  which  is  the  fault  of  many 
of  our  lakes,  and  which  is  the  case  throughout  the  far 
greater  part  even  of  Loch  Katrine.  Loch  Earn  has  no 
^  459 


EARN,  BRIDGE  OF 

blank.  Such  as  its  beauty  is,  it  is  always  consistent 
and  complete. ' 

The  river  Earn,  issuing  from  Loch  Earn  at  St  Fillans 
village,  takes  a  general  easterly  course  along  Strathearn, 
and  falls  into  the  Tay,  at  a  point  IJ  mile  NNE  of  Aber- 
netliy,  1  mile  W  of  the  boundary  between  Perthshire 
and  Fife,  and  6f  miles  SE  by  S  of  Perth.  Its  course 
abounds  in  serpentine  folds,  wliicli  contribute  much  to 
its  beauty  and  to  its  abrasive  power ;  and,  measured 
along  which,  it  has  a  total  length  of  46^  miles — viz. ,  13| 
to  Crielf  Bridge,  24^  thence  to  Bridge  of  Earn,  and  8^ 
thence  to  its  moutli.  It  draws  not  only  from  the 
numerous  mountain  feeders  of  the  lake,  but  also  from 
numerous  mountain  streams  on  both  flanks  of  the  upper 
part  of  its  own  proper  basin,  so  that  it  always  has  a 
considerable  volume  and  a  lively  velocity,  and  is  liable 
in  times  of  rain  to  swell  suddenly  into  powerful  freshets; 
and  it  sometimes  bursts  or  overflows  its  banks,  particu- 
larly in  its  lower  reaches,  with  devastating  efl'ect  ou 
the  crops  or  soils  of  the  flooded  district.  Its  chief 
tributaries  on  the  left  are  the  Lednock  at  Comrie  and 
the  Turret  at  Crieff";  on  the  right,  the  Ru chill  at  Comrie, 
the  Machany  at  Kinkell,  the  Ruthven  at  Trinity-Gask, 
and  tlie  May  at  Forteviot.  The  first  13  miles  of  its 
course,  from  Loch  Earn  onward,  lie  through  the  parish 
of  Comrie  and  the  parish  of  Monzievaird  and  Strowan  ; 
and  the  rest  of  its  course,  though  occasionally  intersect- 
ing wings  or  districts  of  parishes,  is  mainly  the  boundary 
line  between  Crieff",  Monzie,  Trinity-Gask,  Findo-Gask, 
Aberdalgie,  Forteviot  (detached),  and  Rhynd  on  the 
N,  and  Muthill,  Blackford,  Auchterarder,  Dunning, 
Forteviot,  Forgandenny,  Dunbarny,  and  Abernethy  on 
the  S.  Its  flow  is  so  comparatively  rapid,  and  so 
briefly  affected  by  the  tide,  as  to  prevent  it  from  being 
navigable,  even  for  vessels  of  from  30  to  50  tons'  burden, 
higher  than  to  the  Bridge  of  Earn.  Its  waters  contain 
salmon  (running  up  to  48 J  lbs. ),  perch,  and  pike,  and 
have  great  abundance  of  common  trout,  yellow  trout, 
and  sea  trout.  Its  scenery,  throughout  the  upper 
reaches  onward  to  the  vicinity  of  Crieff",  vies  with 
that  of  Loch  Earn  in  all  the  elements  of  natural  beauty 
and  power,  and,  throughout  the  middle  and  lower 
reaches  onwards  to  its  foot,  is  unexcelled  by  that  of 
any  Lowland  tract  in  Britain.  The  Highland  features, 
excepting  varieties  of  detail,  have  already  been  suffi- 
ciently indicated  in  our  account  of  the  lake,  and  the 
Lowland  ones  will  be  described  under  Stratheakn. — 
Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  46,  47,  48,  1868-72. 

Earn,  Bridge  of,  a  village  in  Dunbarny  parish,  SE 
Perthshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Earn,  with  a 
station  upon  the  Edinburgh,  Perth,  and  Dundee 
section  of  the  North  British,  3f  miles  SSE  of  Perth. 
It  took  its  name  from  an  ancient  bridge,  now  super- 
seded by  a  fine  modern  three -arch  structure,  and  it 
consists  of  two  parts,  old  and  new — the  old  founded  in 
1769,  on  leases  of  99  years  ;  the  new  begun  in  1832, 
for  the  accommodation  of  visitors  to  the  neighbouring 
mineral  wells  at  Pitcaithly,  and  formed  on  a  symmet- 
rical plan  in  a  row  or  street  of  handsome  houses.  Nest- 
ling beneath  the  wooded  slopes  of  Moncreiffe  Hill 
(725  feet),  it  is  a  charming  little  village,  and  has  a  post 
office,  with  money  order,  saving.s'  bank,  insurance,  and 
telegraph  departments,  a  very  commodious  hotel,  a 
ball-room,  a  library,  gas-works,  etc.  The  Queen 
changed  horses  here  on  6  Sept.  1842.  Pop.  (1841) 
119,  (1861)  381,  (1871)  326,  (1881)  250.  See  Dun- 
barny.—Crd  Sur.,  sh.  48,  1868. 

Eamock,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Hamilton 
parish,  Lanarkshire.  The  mansion,  standing  2^  miles 
\VSW  of  Hamilton,  is  a  modern  square  edifice,  with 
very  fine  jileasure-grounds. 

Eamock,  Meikle,  a  village  in  Hamilton  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  2  miles  SW  of  Hamilton.  An  ancient 
tumulus  adjoining  it,  thougli  formerly  much  larger, 
now  measures  12  feet  in  diameter  and  8  in  height,  and 
has  yielded  several  urns. 

Eamside,  an  ancient  forest  in  Dunbarny  parish,  SE 
Perthsliire,  and  eastward  thence,  along  the  Earn  and 
the  Tay  to  the  eastern  border  of  Abdie  parish,  around 
460 


EASSIE  AND  NEVA7 

Lindores  Abbey,  in  Fife.  It  is  said  by  Sibbald  to  have 
been  4  miles  long  and  3  broad,  but  it  could  not  have 
been  less  than  8  miles  long,  and,  though  taking  name 
from  the  river  Earn,  it  extended  so  far  beyond  that 
river's  present  conffuence  with  the  Tay  as  to  counten- 
ance a  tradition  that  the  Earn  once  flowed  to  the  base 
of  the  hills  in  the  NW  of  Fife,  that  the  Tay  closely 
skirted  the  heights  which  now  screen  the  N  side  of  the 
Carse  of  Gowrie,  and  that  the  two  rivers  did  not  unite 
till  they  reached  a  point  considerably  to  the  E  of  their 
present  confluence.  Earnside  Forest  was  the  tradi- 
tionary scene  of  adventures  of  Sir  William  Wallace, 
notably  of  a  sanguinary  conflict  which  he  maintained 
within  it  against  the  English  ;  and  it  was  sometimes 
called  '  Black  Earnside,'  a  name  referring  probably  to 
the  dense  gloom  of  its  trees.  It  was  long  ago  destroyed, 
but  large  masses  of  black  oak,  supposed  to  be  remains 
of  it,  are  found  imbedded  in  the  soil  of  various  parts  of 
the  territory  which  it  once  occupied. 

Earraid,  an  islet  of  Kilfinichen  parish,  Argyllshire, 
separated  by  a  narrow  channel  from  the  south-western 
extremity  of  Mull.  In  1871  it  had  a  temporary  popu- 
lation of  122,  engaged  in  the  construction  of  Dhuhear- 
TACii  Lighthouse. 

Earsay.     See  Iorsa. 

Easdale,  an  island  and  a  village  of  Kilbrandon  parish, 
Argyllshire.  The  island  lies  16  miles  SW  of  Oban,  off 
the  \V  shore  of  Seil  island,  from  which  it  is  separated 
by  a  strait  only  400  feet  wide  at  the  narrowest.  With  a 
somewhat  roundish  form,  measuring  850  and  760  yards 
in  the  two  greatest  diameters,  it  rises  at  one  point  to  a 
height  of  130  feet  above  sea-level,  but  generally  is  very 
little  higher  than  tide-mark.  It  presents  an  unattrac- 
tive appearance,  but  is  highly  interesting  for  its  valuable 
slate  quarries.  Commenced  about  1631,  these,  in  one 
part,  have  been  carried  to  a  depth  of  220  feet  below  sea- 
level,  being  there  kept  dry  by  steam  pumps  and  by  the 
accumulated  debris  thrown  up  in  the  way  of  embank- 
ment ;  they  have  long  been  worked  with  the  appliances 
of  steam-engines  and  railroads  ;  and  they  belong  to  the 
Earl  of  Breadalbane.  In  1866  they  were  let  to  a  com- 
pany of  workmen  formed  on  co-operative  principles, 
but,  favourable  as  were  the  terms  of  the  lease,  the 
venture  proved  unprofitable,  so  in  the  following  year 
they  were  transferred  to  a  company  of  slate  merchants, 
who  have  continued  to  work  them  with  great  vigour. 
They  employ  about  280  men,  and  turn  out  annually 
between  seven  and  nine  millions  of  slates,  worth  not 
less  than  £14,000.  The  strait  between  Easdale  and  Seil 
is  used  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  two  islands  much  in  the 
manner  of  a  highway,  or  similarly  to  the  manner  in  which 
the  people  of  Venice  use  their  canals,  the  workmen  especi- 
ally disporting  themselves  on  it  in  boats  at  all  available 
times,  and  regularly  crossing  it  at  meal  hours  ;  it  also 
is  part  of  the  ordinary  marine  highway  of  the  western 
steamers  between  the  Clyde  and  the  N,  afl'ording  passen- 
gers an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  curious  operations  in 
the  quarries  ;  and  it  likewise  serves  as  a  good  harbour, 
and  has  been  entered  in  the  course  of  a  year  by  as  many 
as  400  sailing  vessels,  most  of  them  sloops,  and  many  of 
them,  even  to  the  number  of  more  than  twelve  at  a 
time,  waiting  their  turn  to  be  cargoed  with  slates. 
The  village  stands  on  both  sides  of  the  strait,  or  is 
]iartly  Easdale  proper  on  Easdale  island,  and  partly 
EUanabriech  on  Seil ;  consists  chiefly  of  snug,  slated, 
one-story  houses  ;  and  has  a  post  office  under  Oban, 
with  money  order,  savings'  bank,  and  telegraph  depart- 
ments, a  new  pier  (1873),  a  public  school,  a  youn» 
men's  improvement  association,  a  library,  and  occasional 
lectures  on  popular  and  scientific  subjects.  Queen 
Victoria,  when  on  her  way  to  Ardverikie  in  1847,  had 
a  brilliant  reception  at  Easdale.  Pop.  of  island  (1841) 
531,  (1861)  449,  (1871)  504,  (1881)  490 ;  of  village, 
(1861)  772,  (1871)  855,  (1881)  805.  See  p.  76  of 
Trans.  Hiijhl.  and  Ag.  Soc.  for  1878. 

Easnambroc,  a  waterfall  of  30  feet  in  Kiltarlity 
pari.sli,  Inverness-shire,  on  the  river  Glass,  1  mile  above 
Fasnakyle. 

Eassie  and  Nevay,  a  united  parish  on  the  W  border 


EAST  BARNS 

of  Forfarshire,  containing,  towards  its  NE  comer,  Eassie 
station  on  the  Scottish  Midland  section  of  the  Caledonian, 
5|  miles  ENE  of  the  post-town  IMeigle,  and  2^  W  by  N 
of  Glamis,  by  road  ;  whilst  by  rail  it  is  2^  miles  SW  of 
Glamis  station,  4|  NE  of  Alyth  Junction,  and  24|  NE 
of  Perth.  United  before  the  middle  of  the  17th  century, 
the  ancient  parishes  of  Eassie  and  Nevay  were  nearly 
equal  to  each  other  in  extent — Eassie  on  the  N,  Nevay 
on  the  S.  The  whole  is  bounded  N  by  Airlie,  E  and 
SE  by  Glamis,  S  and  SW  by  Newtyle,  and  W  by  Meigle 
in  Perthshire.  Its  greatest  length,  from  NNE  to  SSW, 
is  4|  miles  ;  its  breadth  varies  between  1 J  and  2§  miles  ; 
and  its  area  is  5061^  acres,  of  which  8  are  water.  Dean 
Water  creeps  2f  miles  west-by-southward  along  all  the 
northern  border,  with  scarcely  perceptible  current,  yet 
sometimes  in  winter,  bursting  its  strong  embankments, 
floods  all  the  neighbouring  fields.  Eassie  Burn  rises  in 
the  N  of  Auchterhouse  parish,  and,  running  6^  miles 
north-by-westward  through  Dexoon  Glen  in  Glamis 
parish,  and  across  the  north-eastern  extremity  of  Eassie 
past  Eassie  station,  falls  into  Dean  Water  at  a  point  2| 
miles  WNW  of  Glamis  village.  The  level  northern  and 
north-western  portion  is  part  of  Stkathmore,  and  sinks 
along  Dean  Water  to  1 60  feet  above  the  sea ;  south- 
wards the  surface  rises  to  the  Sidlaws,  attaining  371  feet 
near  Murleywell,  621  at  Ingliston  Hill,  and  947  on  the 
south-eastern  border,  whilst  Kinpurney  Hill  (1134  feet) 
culminates  just  within  Newtyle.  The  rocks  of  the  i;p- 
lands  are  partly  eruptive,  partly  Devonian  ;  that  of  the 
Strathraore  division  is  Old  Red  sandstone  ;  and  here  the 
soil  is  mainly  a  soft  sandy  loam  of  high  fertility,  as 
there  it  is  partly  moorish,  partly  a  thin  black  mould. 
Nearly  half  of  the  entire  area  is  in  tillage  ;  about  240 
acres  are  under  wood  ;  and  the  rest  is  either  pastoral  or 
waste.  A  circular  mound,  with  traces  of  an  ancient 
deep,  wide  moat,  is  occupied  by  Castle-Nairne  farm- 
house ;  and  a  large  sculptured  stone,  similar  to  the 
famous  sculptured  stones  of  Meigle  and  Aberlemno,  is 
near  the  old  church  of  Eassie.  All  Nevay  belongs  to  the 
Earl  of  Wharnclitfe,  the  rest  of  the  parish  being  divided 
among  4  proprietors.  This  parish  is  in  the  presbytery 
of  Meigle  and  synod  of  Angus  and  Mearns  ;  the  living  is 
worth  £259.  Two  churches,  the  one  in  Eassie,  the  other 
in  Nevay,  were  formerly  in  use  alternately ;  and  both 
of  them  still  stand  as  ruins,  with  burial  grounds  at 
each,  beyond  the  station.  The  present  church,  2  miles 
SW  of  Eassie  station,  was  built  in  1833,  and  contains  400 
sittings.  A  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  127 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  65,  and  a 
grant  of  £55,  3s.  lid.  Valuation  (1882)  £6974,  lis., 
plus  £2026  for  railway.  Pop.  (1801)  638,  (1831)  654, 
(1861)  748,  (1871)  586,  (1881)  561.— Ord.  Sur.,  sh. 
56,  1870. 

East  Bams,  etc.     See  Barns,  East,  etc. 

Eastend,  an  estate,  with  a  modern  mansion,  in  Car- 
michael  parish,  Lanarkshire,  2  miles  WSW  of  Thanker- 
ton.  Its  owner,  Maurice  Thomson-Carmichael,  Esq.  (b. 
1841  ;  sue.  1875),  holds  2125  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £2058  per  annum. 

Easterfield.     See  Inverkeithing. 

Easterhill,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Shettleston 
parish,  Lanarkshire,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Clyde,  5 
furlongs  SSW  of  Tollcross. 

Easterhouse,  a  collier  village  in  Old  Monkland  parish, 
Lanarkshire,  with  a  station  on  the  Glasgow  and  Coat- 
bridge branch  of  the  North  British,  3^  miles  W  of  Coat- 
bridge. 

Easterhouse,  Dumbartonshire.     Sec  Roseneath. 

Easterskene,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Skene 
parish,  SE  Aberdeenshire.  The  mansion  stands  near 
the  NE  shore  of  Loch  Skene,  9  miles  W  by  N  of  Aber- 
deen, and  S  by  E  of  Kintore  station.  Built  about  1832, 
it  is  a  large  edifice  in  the  Tudor  style,  with  fine  grounds, 
and  commands  an  extensive  prospect  to  the  frontier 
Grampians.  Its  owner,  William  M'Comliie,  Esq.  (b. 
1802  ;  sue.  1824),  holds  2179  acres  in  the  shire,  valued 
at  £1052  per  annum.     See  Lynturk. 

Eastertown,  a  hill  on  the  S  border  of  Fyvie  parish, 
Aberdeenshire,  projecting  from  the  Bethcluie  range  in 


EATHACE  OR  EIGHEACH,  LOCH 

Meldmm,    and   finely  diversifying  the   upper   vale  of 
Ythan  Water. 

Eastertyre,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Logierait 
parish,  Perthshire,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Tay,  2^ 
miles  WNW  of  Ballinluig  Junction. 

Eastfield.     See  Rtitherglen. 

East-Grange  Station.     See  Culross. 

East-Haven,  a  fishing  village  in  Panbride  parish,  For- 
farshire, with  a  station  on  the  Dundee  and  Arbroath 
railway,  4^  miles  SW  of  Arbroath.  It  sends  largo 
quantities  of  live  lobsters  to  the  London  market,  and  of 
white  fish  to  Dundee,  Forfar,  and  other  towns. 

Eastmuir.    See  Shettleston. 

Eastwood,  a  mansion  in  Caputh  parish,  Perthshire, 
in  the  south-eastern  vicinity  of  Dunkeld.  Its  groimds 
are  very  beautiful,  commanding  at  one  point  a  splendid 
view  of  the  town,  the  bridge,  the  cathedral,  and  the 
environs  of  Dunkeld.  In  1879  Eastwood  was  rented  by 
Mr  J.  E.  Millais,  R.A. 

Eastwood  or  PoUok,  a  parish  in  the  E  of  Renfrew- 
shire. It  contains  the  post-town  of  Pollokshaws  (3 
miles  SSW  of  GlasgoAv)  and  the  village  of  Thornlie- 
BANK,  with  the  stations  of  Pollokshaws,  Kennishead, 
Thornliebank,  and  Gitihock.  It  is  bounded  N  by  Govan, 
E  by  Cathcart,  S  by  Jlearns,  SW  by  Neilston,  and  W 
by  Abbey-Paisley ;  and  at  its  north-eastern  corner  ap- 
proaches very  near  to  the  southern  suburbs  of  Glasgow. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  NW  to  SE,  is  4§  miles  ;  its 
greatest  breadth  is  3f  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  5690  acres, 
of  which  93f  are  water.  The  White  Cart  winds  4 
miles  west-north-westward  through  the  interior  and 
along  the  boundary  with  Abbey-Paisley  ;  Levern  Water 
runs  2^  miles,  partly  along  that  boundary,  partly 
across  a  narrow  western  wing ;  and  Auldhouse  Burn, 
another  of  the  White  Cart's  tributaries,  comes  in  from 
Mearns,  and  traverses  the  interior,  itself  receiving 
Brock  Burn,  which  rises  close  to  the  south-eastern  bor- 
der. The  surface  is  charmingly  diversified  with  shallow 
vale  and  gentle  eminence,  westward  declining  to  50  feet 
above  sea-level,  whilst  rising  to  167  near  Knowehead, 
170  near  Haggbowse,  221  near  Giff'nock  station,  and  302 
at  Upper  Darnley.  The  rocks  are  chiefly  of  the  Car- 
boniferous formation,  and  include  valuable  beds  of  sand- 
stone, limestone,  ironstone,  and  coal,  all  of  which  have 
been  worked.  The  Gifi"nock  sandstone  has  a  fine  grain 
and  a  whitish  hue  ;  the  Eastwood  pavement  stone  is  a 
fine  foliated  limestone  ;  and  the  Cowglen  coal  is  of  good 
quality,  and  occurs  in  numerous  seams,  none  of  them 
more  than  2^  feet  thick.  The  soil  on  the  banks  of  the 
streams  is  very  fertile  alluvium  ;  on  the  higher  grounds, 
is  generally  a  thin  earth  on  a  till  bottom ;  and  else- 
where, is  of  various  quality.  Rather  less  than  half  the 
entire  area  is  in  tillage,  as  much  or  more  is  pasture, 
and  some  350  acres  are  under  wood.  Extensive  fac- 
tories are  at  Pollokshaws,  Thornliebank,  and  Green- 
bank  ;  and  the  whole  parish  teams  with  industry,  as  if 
it  were  immediately  suburban  to  Glasgow.  Robert 
Wodrow  (1679-1734),  author  of  a  well-kno^\-n  History  of 
the  Church  of  Scotland;  Matthew  Crawfurd  (d.  1700), 
author  of  a  voluminous  unpublished  work  of  the  same 
title;  and  Stevenson  Macgill,  D.D.  (1765-1840),  pro- 
fessor  of  divinity  in  the  University  of  Glasgow,  were 
ministers  of  Eastwood  ;  whilst  Walter  Stewart  of  Par- 
dovan,  author  of  the  Pardovan  Collections,  died  in  the 
parish,  and  was  interred  in  the  Pollok  burial-aisle. 
Darnley  and  Pollok,  both  separately  noticed,  are  estates 
with  much  interest  attaching  to  them  ;  and  Stirling- 
Maxwell  is  the  chief  projjrietor,  12  others  holding  each 
an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  42  of  between  £100 
and  £500,  73  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  89  of  from  £20 
to  £50.  In  the  presbytery  of  Paisley  and  synod  of  Glas- 
gow and  Ayr,  this  parish  is  ecclesiastically  divided  into 
Eastwood  proper  and  Pollokshaws,  the  former  a  living 
worth  £602.  The  various  places  of  worslnp  and  the 
schools  arc  noticed  under  Pollokshaws  and  Thornlie- 
bank. Valuation  (1860)  £32,503,  (1882)  £64,598,  Is.  5d. 
Pop.  (1801)  3375,  (1831)  6854,  (1861)  11,314,  (1871) 
13,098,  (1881)  13,915.— fj-rf.  Sur.,  sh,  30,  1866. 
Eathack  or  Eigheach,  Loch.     See  Gavir. 

461 


EATHIE 

Eathie,  a  picturesque  reach  of  coast,  traversed  by  a 
romantic  burn — a  noble  Old  Red  sandstone  ravine — in 
the  NE  of  the  Black  Isle  district  of  Ross  and  Croniartj'. 
Its  liassic  deposit,  amazingly  rich  in  fossil  organisms, 
possesses  high  interest  both  in  itself  and  in  connection 
with  those  early  researches  of  Hugh  Miller,  which  he  de- 
scribes in  chap.  viii.  of  My  Schools  mid  Schoolmasters. 

Ebrie,  a  burn  of  N  Aberdeenshire,  rising  in  New 
Deer  parish,  I4  mile  SE  of  New  Deer  village,  and  run- 
ning 8^  miles  southward  to  the  Ythan,  at  a  point  2^ 
miles  WNW  of  Ellon.  It  is  followed,  over  the  gi-eater 
part  of  its  course,  by  the  Buchan  and  Formartine  sec- 
tion of  the  Great  North  of  Scotland  ;  has  Arnage  House 
and  Arnage  station  on  its  left  bank  ;  gives  the  name  of 
Invorebrie  to  a  detached  section  of  Methlick  parish  con- 
tiguous to  its  mouth  ;  and,  in  times  of  heavy  rain, 
becomes  a  voluminous  torrent. — Orel.  Sitr.,  sh.  87,  1876. 

Ecclefechan  (Celt.  'Church  of  Fechan  '*),  the  birth- 
place of  Thomas  Carlyle,  is  a  village  in  Hoddam  parish, 
Annandale,  Dumfriesshire.  It  stands  171  feet  above 
sea-level,  f  mile  ESE  of  Ecclefechan  station,  on  the 
main  line  of  the  Caledonian,  this  being  3;^  miles  AVNW 
of  Kirtlebidge,  20  NW  of  Carlisle,  5|  SE  by  S  of 
Lockerbie,  81  S  by  W  of  Edinburgh,  and  81i  SE  by  S 
of  Glasgow.  At  it  are  a  post  office,  with  money  order, 
savings'  bank,  insurance,  and  railway  telegraph  depart- 
ments, a  branch  of  the  Royal  Bank,  gas-works,  3  hotels,  a 
Gothic  Free  church  (1878  ;  280  sittings),  a  Gothic  U.P. 
church  (1865  ;  600  sittings),  and  a  public  school ;  and 
fairs  are  held  here  on  the  Tuesday  after  11  June  and  the 
Tuesday  after  20  October.  '  The  village  of  Ecclefechan ' 
(we  quote  from  the  Scotsman  of  11  Feb.  1881),  '  situated 
midway  between  Lockerbie  and  the  Solway  Firth,  has 
been  generally  identified  as  the  "  Entepfuhl "  of  Carlyle's 
Sartor  Eesartus.  There  it  is,  little  altered  from  what  it 
was  when  Carlyle  knew  it  in  his  early  days,  lying  in  a 
hollow,  surrounded  by  wooded  slopes,  with  its  little 
"  Kuhbach  "  still  gushing  kindly  by — where  not  covered 
over — to  join  Mein  Water  at  the  foot  of  the  town,  bef'^ve 
the  Mein  loses  itself  in  Annan  Water,  1^  mile  lower 
down  the  valley.  There  are  the  beechrows ;  and  here, 
by  the  side  of  the  road,  is  the  field  where  the  annual 
cattle  fair  is  held — "  undoubtedly  the  grand  summary 
of  Entepfuhl  child's  culture,  whither,  assembling  from 
all  the  four  winds,  come  the  elements  of  an  unspeakable 
hurly-burly."  Built  along  the  Glasgow  and  Carlisle 
highway,  the  stage-coach  in  the  old  days  wended  its 
way  night  and  morning  through  Ecclefechan  ;  but  the 
cheery  horn  of  the  guard  is  no  more  heard,  and,  the 
railway  having  passed  it  by,  the  village  is  now  probably 
the  scene  of  less  bustle  than  it  was  eighty  years  since. 
The  weaving  industry,  which  at  a  time  less  remote,  gave 
employment  to  not  a  few  men  and  women,  has  now 
almost  deserted  it,  and  the  quietude  of  the  place  has  beeu 
further  increased  by  a  diversion  of  the  turnpike  road  to 
the  higher  ground  along  the  western  boundary,  in  order 
to  avoid  the  hollow  in  which  Ecclefechan  is  situated. 
The  inhabitants  are  now,  for  the  most  part,  people 
engaged  in  agricultural  pursuits,  and  sliopkeepers  and 
others  who  minister  to  their  wants.  The  village  has  a 
particularly  neat  and  tidy  appearance,  from  the  fact 
that  nearly  all  the  houses  not  faced  with  the  red  sand- 
stone of  the  district  are  regularly  whitewashed  about 
the  time  of  the  fair.  Most  of  the  older  cottages  and 
other  tenements  are  said  to  have  been  erected  by  the 
father  and  imcle  of  Carlyle,  who,  it  is  known,  followed 
the  trade  of  mason,  and  who  are  still  well  remembered 
in  Ecclefechan.  The  house  in  which  Thomas  Carlyle 
was  born  stands  on  the  W  side  of  the  main  street  near 
the  S  end  of  tlie  village.  It  is  a  plain  two-story  build- 
ing, whitewashed  like  so  many  of  its  neighbours,  and 
may  be  said  to  be  divided  into  two  parts  by  a  lai'gc 
keyed  arcli,  which  gives  access  to  a  court  and  some 
gardens  behind.  At  present  it  is  occupied  by  two  separate 
families,  who  enter  their  respective  dwellings  by  door- 

*  Fechin  of  Fore,  probably,  the  Vi^'canuB  of  the  Scottish  Calen- 
dar, who,  according'  to  Skene,  was  an  Frisli  ancliorite  of  tlie  latter 
half  of  tlie  Cth  century,  about  which  period  St  Kcntifcrn  first  fixed 
his  see  at  Hoodam. 
462 


ECCLES 

ways  on  either  side  of  the  arch.  It  was  in  the  northern- 
most division,  in  a  small  chamber  immediately  over 
the  archway,  that  Carlyle  first  saw  the  light,  on  4  Dec. 
1795.  The  room,  which  is  reached  from  the  ground 
floor  by  a  well-worn  staircase  of  red  sandstone  flags,  is 
of  small  proportions — 4  or  5  feet  wide  by  8  or  9  in 
length — with  a  bed-place  formed  in  the  old  style  by 
making  a  recess  in  the  wall.*  Closely  adjoining  this 
interesting  tenement  is  a  lane,  known  as  Carlyle's  Close, 
in  which  stood  a  house  afterwards  tenanted  by  Carlyle's 
father,  and  in  which  all  the  other  children  were  born. 
Here  Carlyle  was  brought  up.  This  house  in  the  lapse 
of  time  has  undergone  considerable  changes  ;  and  the 
Philistinism  of  Ecclefechan  has  at  last  transformed  it 
into  the  village  shambles.  The  churchyard  lies  on  the 
W  side  of  the  village,  50  yards  or  thereby  along  the 
beech-fringed  road  which  leads  to  Hoddam  Castle.  It 
is  only  about  half  an  acre  in  extent ;  and  in  the  centre 
of  it  many  years  ago  stood  the  ancient  church  of  St 
Fechan,  of  which  not  a  stone  remains.  Close  to  the 
churchyard  on  the  E  side  is  a  handsome  Gothic  church 
in  red  sandstone,  cruciform  in  shape,  with  a  square 
clock-tower,  which  is  the  most  prominent  object  in  the 
village.  This  belongs  to  the  U.P.  congi-egation,  and 
took  the  place  of  the  old  Secession  church,  in  which,  it 
is  understood,  Carlyle  was  baptized  by  the  Rev.  Mr 
Johnston,  who  afterwards  taught  the  youthful  genius 
Latin.  By  the  side  of  the  churchyard  is  a  long  cottage- 
like building  in  a  fair  state  of  repair — the  old  parish 
school,  where  Carlyle  learnt  "those  earliest  tools  of 
complicacy  which  a  man  of  letters  gets  to  handle — his 
class-books."  This  old  school-house,  said  to  have  been 
built  with  the  stones  of  the  ruined  church,  ceased  some 
five  and  twenty  years  ago  to  be  used  by  the  village 
schoolmaster,  who  removed  to  a  more  commodious 
building  within  a  stone's  cast,  which  since  the  passing 
of  the  Education  Act  has  been  enlarged  and  dignified 
with  a  clock-tower.  The  old  school-house  is  now  a 
casual  poorhouse  and  soup-kitchen.'  In  the  churchyard 
itself  are  headstones  to  Archibald  Arnott,  Esq.  (1772- 
1855),  Napoleon's  medical  attendant  at  St  Helena ;  to 
Robert  Peal  (1692-1749),  said  to  be  the  great-grand- 
father of  Sir  Robert  Peel ;  and,  in  the  W  corner,  to 
James  Carlyle  (1758-1832)  and  Margaret  Aitken  (1771- 
1853),  his  second  wife,  who  'brought  him  nine  chil- 
dren, whereof  four  sons  and  three  daughters  survived, 
gratefully  reverent  of  such  a  father  and  mother.'  Two 
of  those  sons  have  since  been  laid  beside  her — Dr  John 
Aitken  Carlyle  (1801-79),  the  translator  of  Dante,  and 
Thomas  Carlyle  himself,  whose  funeral  on  10  Feb. 
1881,  a  cloudy,  sleaty  day,  was  attended  by  Prof.  Tyn- 
dall,  Mr  J.  A.  Fronde,  Mr  J.  M.  Lecky,  etc.  No  stone 
as  yet  marks  his  grave,  but  the  churchyard  wall  was 
rebuilt  and  walks  were  laid  out  in  the  winter  of  1881-82. 
Pop.  of  village  (1841)  768,  (1861)  884,  (1871)  846,  (1881) 
769. — Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  10,  1864.  See  also  Annan,  Kirk- 
caldy, Haddington,  and  Craigenputtoch. 

Eccles,  a  Border  village  and  parish  of  Berwickshire. 
The  village  stands,  244  feet  above  sea-level,  in  the  SW 
of  the  parish,  2  miles  NNW  of  the  nearest  reach  of  the 
Tweed,  5i  SE  of  Greenlaw  station,  5|  NNE  of  Kelso, 
and  6^  WNW  of  Coldstream,  under  which  it  has  a  post 
office.  Tliough  now  consisting  of  but  one  small  street, 
it  represents  an  ancient  town  of  no  little  consequence, 
the  scat  ofSt  Mary's  Cistercian  nunnery,  founded  in  1155. 
Town  and  nunnery  were  burned  in  Hertford's  raid  of 
1545  ;  and  nothing  remains  now  of  the  latter  save  two 
vaulted  cells  and  a  fragment  of  wall  near  the  churchyard. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  villages  of  Birguam 
and  Leitholm,  is  bounded  N  by  Fogo,  E  by  Swinton 
and  Coklstream,  S  by  Northumberland  and  by  Sprou- 
ston  in  Roxburghshire,  SW  by  Ednam  and  Stichill 
in  Roxburghshire,  W  by  Hume,  and  NW  by  Green- 
law. Its  length,  from  ENE  to  WSW,  varies  Ijetween 
2g  and  6^  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth  is  5i  miles ;  and 

*  So  the  Scotsman,  but,  according  to  Carlyle's  brother,  who 
still  resides  in  the  neighbourhood,  it  was  not  in  this  room,  but  in 
that  at  the  tup  of  the  stair,  on  the  right  band  side,  that  the  Sage 
of  Chelsea  was  born. 


ECCLESCBAIG 

its  area  is  12,488|  acres,  of  which  70f  are  water.  The 
Tweed,  here  a  glorious  fishing  river,  sweeps  3  miles  east- 
north-eastward  along  all  the  Sproustou  and  Northum- 
berland border ;  Leet  Water,  ditchlike  but  troutful, 
flows  2  miles  south-south-westward  along  the  boundary 
with  Coldstream  ;  and,  through  the  northern  interior, 
Lambden  Burn,  after  tracing  2  j  miles  of  the  Greenlaw 
border,  meanders  4J  miles  eastward  to  the  Leet,  past 
Leitholm.  A  partially  drained  bog  near  Birghain  is 
much  frequented  by  wild  ducks.  The  surface  sinks 
along  tlie  Tweed  to  80  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising 
in  gentle  parallel  ridges  to  230  feet  near  AVester  Whit- 
rig,  272  at  Bartle  Hill,  296  near  Harlaw,  338  at  Eccles 
Hdl,  and  353  near  Hardacres.  The  chief  rocks  are  a 
sandstone  resting  on  clay-stone  porphyry,  and  quarried 
for  masonry  ;  a  sandstone  covered  by  amygdaloid,  con- 
taining green  steatite  and  calcareous  spar  ;  a  dark  slat}^ 
marly  sandstone,  containing  25  per  cent,  of  carbonate 
of  lime  ;  a  magnesian  limestone,  containing  red  horn- 
stone  and  crystals  of  calcareous  spar ;  and  red  massy 
gypsum,  in  thin  beds,  containing  feruginous  crystals. 
The  soil  is  light  on  the  bank  of  the  Tweed  ;  in  the 
middle  and  northern  districts,  is  chiefly  clay  and  loam. 
All  the  land,  with  slight  exception,  is  arable  and  very 
productive,  having  fine  embellishments  of  enclosures  and 
plantations,  and  presenting  a  rich  and  charming  appear- 
ance. Karnes  was  the  birthplace  of  the  distinguished 
judge  and  philosopher,  Henry  Home  (1696-1782),  who 
from  it  assumed  the  title  of  Lord  Karnes,  and  here  was 
visited  in  1759  by  Benjamin  Franklin.  Leitholm  Tower, 
a  ruined  Border  peel,  stands  beside  Lambden  Burn ; 
and  at  Deadriggs  is  the  sculptured  stone  of  Crosshalls. 
Eccles  House  is  the  property  of  James  Lewis  Greig,  Esq. 
(b.  1868  ;  sue.  1869),  who  o\vns  363  acres  in  the  shire, 
valued  at  £871  per  annum.  Other  mansions,  most  of 
them  noticed  separately,  are  Anton's  Hill,  Belchester 
House,  Bughtrig,  Kames,  Mersington  House,  Purves 
Hall,  Spring  Hill,  and  Stoneridge  ;  and  17  proprietors 
hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  and  upwards,  5  of 
between  £100  and  £500,  1  of  from  £50  to  £100,  and  10 
of  from  £20  to  £50.  Eccles  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Dunse  and  synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale ;  the  living 
is  worth  £348.  The  parish  church,  at  the  village,  with 
handsome  spire  and  1000  sittings,  was  built  in  1774, 
successor  to  its  ancient  predecessor  which  was  dedicated 
first  to  St  Cuthbert,  afterwards  to  St  Andrew.  There 
are  also  a  Free  church  (280  sittings)  of  Eccles  and  a 
U.P.  church  (300)  of  Leitholm  ;  whilst  the  three  public 
schools  of  Birgham,  Eccles,  and  Leitholm,  with  respec- 
tive accommodation  for  88,  114,  and  119  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  23,  70,  and  117,  and 
grants  of  £18,  18s.,  £57,  3s. ,  and  £103, 15s.  Valuation 
(18G4)  £22,846,  4s.  2d.,  (1882)  £25,265, 17s.  lOd.  Pop. 
<1801) 1682, (1831) 1885, (1861)  1861, (1871) 1780, (1881) 
1546.— Orel.  Sur.,  shs.  25,  26,  1865-64. 

Ecclescraig.    See  St  Cyrus. 

Ecclesfechan.    See  Ecclefechan. 

Ecclesiamagirdle  (Celt.  '  church  of  St  Grizel '),  a  de- 
tached portion  of  Dron  parish,  SE  Perthshire,  lying 
westward  of  the  main  body,  and  parted  therefrom  by  a 
strip  of  Dunbamy,  1  furlong  broad  at  the  narrowest. 
With  utmost  length  and  breadth  of  If  and  f  mile,  it 
has  an  area  of  631§  acres ;  contains  Gleneakx  House 
and  a  fragment  of  an  ancient  chapel ;  and  is  all  so  over- 
shadowed by  the  Ochils,  that,  according  to  an  old-world 
rhyme — 

'  The  lasses  o'  Exmagirdle 
May  very  weel  be  dun  ; 
For  frae  Slicliaelmas  till  Whitsunday 
They  never  see  the  sun.' 

Ecclesmachan  (Celt,  'church  of  St  Machan'),  a  village 
and  a  parish  of  Linlithgowshire.  The  village  stands  2^ 
miles  N  by  Wof  Uphall  station,  3  WSW  of  Wiuchburgh 
station,  and  4|  ESE  of  Linlithgow. 

The  parish  consists  of  two  portions,  separated  by  a 
strip  of  Linlithgow  parish,  1  mile  broad  at  the  narrowest. 
The  north-eastern  of  the  two,  containing  the  village  at 
its  SW  corner,  is  bounded  N  by  Aburcorn  and  the  Ald- 
cathie  section  of  Dalmeiiy,  E  by  Kirkliston,  S  by  Uphall, 


ECHT 

and  SW  and  W  by  Linlithgow  ;  and,  with  an  utmost 
length  and  breadth  of  1|  and  1^  mUe,  has  an  area  of 
1107  acres.  The  south-western  portion,  bounded  N  by 
Linlithgow,  E  by  Uphall,  S  by  Livingston,  and  SW  and 
W  by  Bathgate,  is  the  larger,  measuring  3  miles  from  E 
to  W  by  1|  mile  from  N  to  S,  and  having  an  area  of 
1540|  acres.  The  surface  rises  gently  from  300  to  600 
feet  above  sea-level  in  the  north-eastern,  from  480  to 
720  in  the  south-western,  division  ;  and  the  latter  is 
drained  by  Brox,  the  former  by  Niddry,  Burn.  The 
rocks  are  partly  eruptive,  partly  carboniferous.  Sand- 
stone is  plentiful ;  and  great  beds  of  indurated  clay,  in- 
terspersed here  and  there  with  seams  of  clay-ironstone, 
occur  in  conjunction  with  trap  ;  whilst  coal  has  been 
mined  in  the  N.  Bullion  Well,  a  mineral  spring  that 
issues  from  the  trap  rocks  of  Tor  Hill,  near  the  manse, 
and  is  weakly  impregnated  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen, 
was  formerly  held  in  some  medicinal  rejjute.  With  the 
exception  of  130  acres  under  wood,  the  whole  almost  of 
the  land  is  in  tillage.  The  eminent  surgeon,  Robert 
Listen  (1794-1847)  was  a  native,  his  father  being  parish 
minister  ;  so  too,  perhaps,  was  the  poet  William  Hamil- 
ton of  Baugour  (1704-54),  who  is  best  remembered  by 
his  exquisite  Braes  of  Yarrow.  The  property  is  mostly 
divided  among  three.  Ecclesmachan  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Linlithgow  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale ; 
the  living  is  worth  £393.  The  church,  which  early  in 
last  century  was  mainly  rebuilt,  contains  153  sittings  ; 
and  a  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  115  chil- 
dren, had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  68,  and  a 
grant  of  £61,  9s.  Valuation  (1882)  £3361,  16s.  5d. 
Pop.  (1801)  303,  (1831)  299,  nS61)  309,  (1871)  329, 
(1881)  278.— Orel  Stcr.,  sh.  32,  1857. 

Echline.    See  Dalmeny. 

Echt,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  SE  Aberdeenshire. 
The  vUlage,  Kirkton  of  Echt,  stands  332  feet  above  sea- 
level,  6  miles  NNW  of  Park  station  and  12  W  of  Aber- 
deen, under  which  it  has  a  post  office.  At  it  are  an  inn 
and  a  branch  of  the  Aberdeen  Town  and  County  Bank  : 
and  cattle  and  horse  fairs  are  held  here  on  the  first 
Monday  of  January,  February,  April,  June,  August, 
September,  and  December,  and  the  last  Tuesday  of  Sep- 
tember 0.  s. ;  horse  fairs  on  the  first  Monday  of  March 
and  the  Monday  in  July  before  St  Sairs,  and  hiring  fairs 
on  the  first  Monday  of  March,  the  second  Monday  of 
May,  and  the  second  Tuesday  of  November. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  by  Cluny,  NE  by  Skene,  E 
by  Skene  and  Peterculter,  S  by  Drumoak  and  Banchory- 
Ternan  in  Kincardineshire,  and  W  and  NW  by  Midmar. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  N  to  S,  is  5f  miles ;  its  breadth, 
from  E  to  W,  varies  between  3|  and  5|  mUes  ;  and  its 
area  is  12,003§  acres,  of  which  55|  are  water.  Kin- 
nernie  Burn  runs  4f  miles  east-by-southward  to  Loch 
Skene,  along  all  the  northern  and  north-eastern  bor- 
der ;  Loch  Skene  (7x5  furl. )  itself  and  Leuchar  Burn, 
issuing  from  it,  form  part  of  the  eastern  boundary  ;  and 
the  Burn  of  Echt,  coming  in  from  Midmar,  runs  across 
the  south-western  district  to  Gormack  Bm-n,  which 
traces  part  of  the  southern  boundary.  In  the  furthest  E 
the  surface  declines  to  252  feet  above  sea-level  along 
Leuchar  Burn,  along  Gormack  Burn  to  190,  and  rises 
thence  to  478  at  Knockquharn,  410  at  Duuecht,  800 
at  conical  Barmekin  Hill,  1179  at  Meikle  Tap,  and 
1291  at  Greymore,  the  two  last  being  summits  of  the 
Hill  of  Fare.  The  Howe  of  Echt  is  a  valley  along  the 
course  of  the  Burn  of  Echt,  overhung  on  the  SW  by  the 
Hill  of  Fare,  and  has  a  very  mild  and  salubrious  climate. 
The  principal  rocks  are  reddish  granite  and  gneiss  ;  and 
the  soil  is  in  some  parts  mossy,  in  others  is  light  and 
sandy,  and  on  the  best  lands  is  chiefly  a  light  loam  in- 
cumbent on  clay.  About  8000  acres  are  in  cultivation  ; 
fully  3000  are  uiuler  wood  (nearly  all  of  it  planted  during 
the  present  century) ;  and  the  rest  of  the  land  is  pastoral 
or  waste.  Cairns  and  ancient  Caledonian  standing  stones 
make  up  the  antiquities,  with  theceleliratcd  fortress  on  the 
Barmekin,  which  has  been  separately  noticed,  as  likewise 
has  the  battle  of  Corrichie.  Dunecht  is  the  only  man- 
sion ;  and  the  Earl  of  Crawford  is  much  the  largest  pro- 
itrietor,  1  other  holding  an  annual  value  of  more,  and 

463 


ECK 


EDAY 


13  of  less,  than  £100.  Eclit  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Kincardine  O'Neil  and  synod  of  Aberdeen  ;  the  living 
is  worth  £2"20.  The  parish  church,  at  the  village,  was 
built  in  1804,  and  contains  600  sittings  ;  a  Free  church 
stands  ^  mile  to  the  E.  Three  public  schools — Cullerley, 
Kirkton,  and  Waterton — with  respective  accommodation 
for  70,  207,  and  106  children,  had  (ISSO)  an  average  at- 
tendance of  42,  120,  and  66,  and  grants  of  £37,  15s., 
£102, 18s. ,  and  £55,  lis.  Yaluation\l843)  £5690,  (1881) 
£7486,  9s.  8d.  Pop.  (1801)972,  (1831)1030,(1861)1287, 
(1871)  1259,  (1881)  1296.— Orel.  Sur.,  sh.  76,  1874. 

Eck,  a  long  narrow  loch  of  singular  beauty  in  Strachur 
and  Dunoon  parishes,  Cowal,  Argyllshire.  Lying  67  feet 
above  sea-level,  it  extends  6J  miles  from  N  by  W  to  S 
by  E  ;  otf  Whistlefield  inn  has  a  maximum  width  of  3 
furlongs ;  and  receives  the  Cur  at  its  head,  whilst  sending 
off  the  Eachaig  at  its  foot.  The  western  shore  is  flanked 
by  Ben  Bheag  (2029  feet),  Ben  More  (2433),  and  Clach 
Ben  (2109) ;  its  eastern,  by  Ben  Dubhain  (2090),  Cruach 
a  Bhuie  (2084),  and  Ben  Ruadh  (2175) ;  and  the  latter 
takes  up  the  road  from  Dunoon  and  Holy  Loch  to 
Strachur  and  St  Catherine's  ferry  on  Loch  Fj'ne. 
A  steamboat,  launched  on  its  waters  so  long  ago  as 
1830,  M-as  shortlj'  discontinued ;  but  now  once  more, 
since  1877,  the  yacht-like  screw  Fairy  Queen  plies  back- 
wards and  forwards  in  connection  with  the  circular 
Loch  Eck  route  to  Inverary.  The  loch  contains  abun- 
dance of  salmon-trout,  the  '  gwyniad '  or  fresh-water 
herring,  and  a  remarkably  translucent  fish,  4  or  5  inches 
long,  provincially  called  the  '  goldie. '  A  round  hillock, 
near  its  head,  bears  the  name  of  Tom-a-Chorachasich 
('  the  hill  of  Chorachasich'),  and  is  traditionally  said  to 
mark  the  grave  of  a  gigantic  Scandinavian  prince,  who 
here  was  slain 'ip  battle  with  the  natives. — Ord.  Sur., 
shs.  37,  29,  1876-73. 

Eckford,  a  village  and  a  parish  of  lower  Teviotdale, 
Roxburghshire.  The  village  stands,  200  feet  above  sea- 
level,  near  the  right  bank  of  the  Teviot,  1^  mile  SE  of 
Kirkbank  station,  6;^  miles  NE  of  Jedburgh,  and  5| 
miles  S  by  W  of  the  post-town  Kelso. 

The  parish,  containing  also  the  hamlets  of  Kirk- 
bank, Cessford,  and  Caverton,  is  bounded  NW  by 
Roxburgh,  N  by  Kelso  and  Sprouston,  E  by  Linton  and 
Morebattle,  SE  by  Hounam,  S  and  SW  by  Jedburgh, 
and  W  by  Crailing.  Its  greatest  length,  from  N  by  E  to 
S  by  W,  is  6^  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth,  from  E  to  W,  is 
4§  miles  ;  and  its  area  is  10,097^  acres,  of  which  99f  are 
water.  The  Teviot,  entering  from  Crailing,  winds  2J 
miles  northward  through  the  western  interior ;  and  its 
affluent  Kale  Water,  in  many  '  a  loop  and  link, '  runs  4^ 
miles  west-north-westward,  nearh'  through  the  centre 
of  the  parish.  To  the  S  of  the  village  is  a  small  loch 
(2  by  I  furl.),  containing  tench,  perch,  trout,  and 
splendid  eels.  The  surface  sinks  in  the  NW  along  the 
Teviot  to  180  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  south- 
ward and  eastward  to  260  near  Kirkbank  station,  606  at 
Bowmont  Forest,  481  at  Caverton  Hill,  651  at  Wooden 
Hill,  754  at  Bank  Hill,  and  800  in  the  furthest  S— 
heights  that  command  extensive  views  of  the  beautiful 
country  around.  Trap  and  sandstone  are  the  predomi- 
nant rocks,  and  have  been  worked  in  several  quarries. 
The  soil,  on  the  low  grounds  in  the  W,  is  a  lightish 
mould ;  on  the  higher  grounds  towards  the  S,  is 
clayey  ;  and  elsewhere  is  extremely  various,  sometimes 
even  on  tfie  same  farm,  but  generally  fertile.  About 
three-fourths  of  the  entire  area  are  in  cultivation  ;  800 
acres  are  under  wood  ;  and  the  rest  of  the  land  is  pas- 
toral or  waste.  The  Kale  is  liere  si)anncd  l)y  two  stone 
bridges  ;  the  Teviot  by  a  suspension-bridge,  180  feet  long 
and  16  wide.  The  ruins  of  Cessford  Castle  are  the 
chief  antiquity  ;  but  old  peel-liouscs  stood  at  Eckford, 
Ormiston,  Wooden  Hill,  and  the  I\Ioss  ;  wliilst  several 
stone  coffins,  a  Roman  urn,  and  a  Roman  coin  have 
been  found.  Hauglihead  estate  lielonged,  in  the  reign 
of  Charles  IL,  to  that  zealous  Covenanter,  Hobbie  or 
Henry  Hall,  and  was  the  place  where  Richard  Cameron 
received  his  licence  to  preach  the  gospel.  A  deep  ravine 
«n  the  eastern  part  of  the  cour.se  of  Kale  Water  was  the 
scene  of  frequent  assemblies  of  the  per.'^ccuted  for  wor- 
464 


ship  ;  and  several  artificial  caves,  a  little  farther  down, 

were  used  by  them  as  retreats  from  danger.  Sir  William 
Bennet,  the  intimate  friend  of  the  poets  Thomson  and 
Ramsay,  was  born  at  Marlefield,  and  spent  the  greater 
part  of  his  life  in  the  parish.  By  some  he  has  been 
deemed  the  prototype  of  Ramsay's  'Sir  William  Worthy  ;* 
and  a  sequestered  spot,  within  a  short  distance  of  Marie- 
field,  traversed  by  a  runnel  flowing  to  the  Kale,  has  been 
falsely  claimed  for  the  genuine  '  Habbie'.s  Hom'e.  '  Saw- 
mills are  at  Bowmont  Forest  and  Teviotfoot.  Kirk- 
bank is  the  only  mansion  ;  and  most  of  the  property 
is  divided  between  the  Dukes  of  Buccleuch  and  Rox- 
burghe,  3  lesser  landowners  holding  each  an  annual 
value  of  £500  and  upwards,  2  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  and  1  from  £50  to  £100.  Eckford  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Jedburgh  and  synod  of  Mer.se  and  Teviotdale  ; 
the  living  is  worth  £353.  The  church,  erected  in  1662, 
retains  its  old  iron  jougs,  and  contains  300  sittings. 
Two  public-schools,  Caverton  Mill  and  Eckford,  with 
respective  accommodation  for  93  and  100  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  56  and  64,  and 
grants  of  £32,  8s.  and  £52,  5s.  "Valuation  (1864) 
£10,751,  4s.  lid.,  (1882)  £13,735,  15s.  3d.  Pop.  (1801) 
973,  (1831)  1148,  (1861)  957,  (1871)  931,  (1881)  912.— 
Ord.  Sur.,  shs.  25,  17,  1865-67. 

Eday,  an  island  and  a  parish  in  the  North  Isles  district 
of  Orkney.  The  island,  at  its  southern  extremity,  lies 
3^  miles  N  by  E  of  Shapinshay,  4f  WNW  of  Stronsay, 
6  E  of  Rousay,  and  13^  NNE  of  Kirkwall ;  and  extends 
7^  miles  in  a  direction  nearly  due  N,  to  within  1^  mile  AV 
of  Sauday,  and  2^  miles  E  by  S  of  Westray.  It  contracts, 
in  the  form  of  an  isthmus  at  the  middle,  from  an  ex- 
treme width  of  3  miles  in  the  S  and  of  2  in  the  N  ;  forms 
the  headlands  of  Warness  in  the  extreme  S,  Venness  in 
the  SE,  Fersness  at  the  north-western  extremity  of  its 
southern  division,  and  Red  Head,  a  high  promontory  of 
red  granite,  in  the  extreme  N  ;  and  lias  two  excellent 
hai-bours,  Fersness  Bay,  immediately  N  of  Fersness 
Head,  and  Calf  Sound,  a  narrow  strait  dividing  it  ia 
the  extreme  NE  from  Calf  island.  The  interior,  which 
contains  several  small  fresh-water  lakes,  rises  to  a 
moderate  elevation  in  a  ridge  extending  almost  from 
end  to  end  ;  abounds  in  an  excellent  kind  of  sandstone, 
which  is  quarried,  and  has  been  much  used  for  building 
in  Kirkwall,  and  even  exported  to  London  ;  comprises 
some  fertile  land  to  the  E  and  S,  with  soils  variously  of 
sand,  gravel,  loam,  and  clay,  but  is  mostly  a  deep  heath- 
covereu  peat  moss,  a  plentiful  store  of  fuel  for  the 
northern  Orkneys.  By  the  trustees  of  the  late  Mr 
Samuel  Laing  the  estate  of  Carrick,  already  noticed, 
was  sold  to  the  late  Robert  James  Hebden,  Esq.,  who 
introduced  sheep-farming  on  a  large  scale  into  Eday 
with  much  success,  his  flock  being  composed  of  Cheviots, 
which  thrive  well  on  the  island.  He  further  improved 
a  large  extent  of  land  around  his  residence  in  the  NE 
part  of  the  island,  and  built  a  commodious  farm-steading, 
with  water-driven  machinery.  His  son  and  successor, 
Harry  Carwardino  Hebden,  Esq.  (b.  1841  ;  sue.  1877), 
holds  7500  acres,  valued  at  £1351  per  annum.  The 
antiquities  of  Eday  comprise  a  number  of  tumuli,  re- 
mains of  several  Picts'  houses,  and  an  ancient  standing 
stone  16  feet  in  height.  There  is  a  post  oflice  of  Etiay 
under  Kirkwall ;  a  small  inn  stands  at  Calf  Sound  ; 
and  two  public  schools.  North  and  South  Eday,  with 
respective  accommodation  for  75  and  82  children,  liad 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  49  and  43,  and  grants  of 
£50,  17s.  6d.  and  £39,  4s.  6d.  Pop.  (1861)  897,  (1871) 
822,  (1881)720. 

The  parish  comprehends  also  the  island  of  Pharay, 
with  its  holms,  protecting  the  harbour  of  Fersness  ; 
the  islet  of  Red  Holm,  lying  to  the  N  of  Pharay  ;  the 
Calf  of  Eday  island,  flanking  the  outer  side  of  Calf 
Sound  ;  and  the  islets  of  I^ittlo  Green  Holm  and  Meikle 
nreen  Holm,  lying  to  the  SW  of  Eday — all,  except 
I'liaray,  uninhabited  and  jiastoral.  Ecclesiastically  it 
is  united  to  Stron.say,  forming  one  charge  with  that 
parish.  There  are  in  it  an  Established  Church  (1816), 
.served  by  a  missionary  of  the  royal  bounty;  a  U.  P. 
Church  (1831)  ;    and  a  new    Baptist    chapel    (1881). 


EDDEBTON 

Valuation  (1881)  £1654,   7s.     Pop.  (1801)  718,  (1831) 
961,  (1861)  979,  (1871)  905,  (1881)  802. 

Edderton,  a  parish  of  NE  Rcss-shire,  containing 
Balulaiu  distillery  and  Edderton  .station  on  the  High- 
land railway  near  the  S  shore  of  Dornoch  Firth,  5^  miles 
WNW  of  Tain,  and  there  havin_^  a  post  and  rail- 
way telegraph  office.  It  is  bonnded  N  by  Dornoch 
Firth,  E  by  Tain,  SE  by  Logie-Easter,  S  by  Kilmuir- 
Easter  and  Rosskeen,  and  W  by  Kincardine.  Its 
utmost  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  8|  miles  ;  and  its 
breadth,  from  N  to  S,  varies  between  4|  and  5|  miles. 
The  shore-line,  closely  followed  for  SJ  miles  by  the 
Highland  railway,  is  everywhere  sandy,  except 
where  Struie  Hill  descends  to  the  water's  edge,  and 
there  it  is  fringed  with  rocks.  Cambuscurrie  Bay, 
where  a  Danish  Heet  is  said  to  have  once  cast  anchor, 
is  now  not  more  than  a  fathom  deep  at  high  waten- ;  but 
Ardmore  has  a  tolerable  harbour.  Four  rivulets — Edder- 
ton Burn,  Allt  iluidli  a  Bhlair,  Easter  Fearn  Burn, 
and  Wester  Fearn  Burn — drain  the  interior  to  the  firth, 
and,  though  of  small  volume  in  dry  weather,  are  easily 
swollen  by  heavy  rains,  and  then  are  very  impetu- 
ous. To  the  W  lies  triangular  Loch  Muidh  a  Bhlair 
(2|  X  15  furl. ).  From  the  low  narrow  terrace  that  naarks 
the  old  sea-margin  of  the  firth,  the  surface  rises  inland 
to  1000  feet  at  Edderton  Hill,  1116  at  Cnoc  an  t-Sa- 
bhail,  794  at  Cnoc  Al  nan  Gamhainn,  1082  and  1218  at 
Struie  Hill,  1274  at  Cnoc  an  Liath-bhaid,  1566  at  Beinn 
Clach  an  Fheadain,  1792  at  Cnoc  Muidh  a'  Bhlair,  1763 
at  Beinn  nan  Oighreagan,  682  at  Cnoc  Bad-a-bhacaidh, 
728  at  Carr  Dubh,  and  1845  at  Cnoc  Leathado  na  Sior- 
ramachd,  the  first  and  last  of  which  summits  mark  the 
eastern  and  western  limits  of  the  parish.  The  leading 
formation  is  Old  Red  sandstone,  mixed  a  good  deal 
\vith  granite,  gneiss,  and  schistose  limestone.  The  soil 
along  the  coast  is  very  light,  and  mostly  rests  on  a  sandy 
bottom  ;  inland  it  may  be  said  to  range  in  a  regular 
series  upward  of  gravel,  deep  alluvial  loam,  poor  sand, 
and  a  mixture  of  gravel,  moss,  and  clay.  Feakn  Abbey, 
rebuilt  in  1338  within  the  parish  to  which  it  now  gives 
name,  was  originally  founded  about  1227  in  the  western 
extremity  of  Edderton,  and  has  bequeathed  its  name  to 
several  localities.  Scandinavian  round  towers  of  the  kind 
called  '  duns,'  that  formerly  were  numerous  on  the  hills, 
have  all  been  mainly  or  entirely  destroyed  ;  but  two 
sculptured  stones  stand  near  the  old  church,  the  one  in 
the  graveyard,  the  other  behind  the  old  school-house. 
(See  Cakkyblair.  )  Edderton  is  in  the  presbytery  of 
Tain  and  synod  of  Ross  ;  the  living  is  worth  about  £331. 
The  present  parish  church,  erected  in  1842,  is  a  handsome 
edifice,  containing  700  sittings.  The  old  parish  church 
of  1743  was  soon  after  the  Disruption  taken  possession 
of  by  the  adherents  of  the  Free  Church.  A  public 
school,  with  accommodation  for  150  children,  had  (1880) 
an  average  attendance  of  79,  and  a  grant  of  £78,  lis. 
Valuation  (1881)  £4661,  13s.,  of  which  £3266,  5s.  was 
held  by  Sir  Charles  Ross  of  Balnagowan.  Pop.  (1801) 
899,  (1831)  1023,  (1861)  836,  (1871)  860,  (1881)  789.— 
—Ord.  Snr.,  shs.  93,  94,  1881-78. 

Eddleston  ('Eadulf's  town'),  a  village  and  a  parish 
of  N  Peeblesshire.  A  neat  little  place,  founded  about 
1785,  the  village  stands,  680  feet  above  sea-level,  on 
the  left  bank  of  Eddleston  Water,  a  bridge  over  which 
leads  to  Eddleston  station  on  the  North  British  railway, 
4i  miles  N  by  W  of  Peebles  and  23|  S  of  Edinburgh  ; 
at  it  are  a  i)ost  office,  with  railway  telegraph,  the  parish 
church,  and  a  public  scliool. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  Penicuik  and 
Temple  in  Midlothian,  E  by  Innerleithen,  S  by  Peebles, 
SW  by  Lyne,  and  W  by  Newland.s.  In  outline  re- 
sembling a  triangle,  witli  northward  apex,  it  has  an 
utmost  length  from  NNE  to  SSW  of  9|  miles,  an  utmost 
width  from  E  to  W  of  5-^  miles,  and  an  area  of  18,590^ 
acre.s,  of  which  100^-  are  water.  Eddleston  Water,  rising 
in  the  extreme  N,  close  to  the  Edinburghshire  border, 
at  880  feet  above  sea-level,  fiows  6J  miles  southward 
through  tins  parish,  next  2J  miles  througli  that  of 
Peebles,  till,  after  a  total  descent  of  330  feet,  it  falls 
into  the  Tweed  at  Peebles  town.  It  is  joined  in  Eddleston 
30 


EDDBACHILLIS 

by  thirteen  triliutary  burns,  on  one  of  which  is  the  pic- 
turesque waterfall  called  Cowie's  Lixn,  and  is  a  capital 
trout-stream.  Perch,  pike,  and  eels  abound  in  pretty 
Portmore  Loch  (now  an  Edinburgh  reservoir),  which, 
lying  2|  miles  NNE  of  the  village,  sends  off  Loch  I5urn 
northward  to  the  South  Esk  river,  so  that  the  drainage 
belongs  partly  to  the  Forth,  though  mainly  to  the  Tweed. 
The  surface  presents  an  assemblage  of  big,  green,  rounded 
hills — from  S  to  N  attaining,  to  the  left  or  E  of  Eddleston 
Water,  1204  feet  near  Windylaws,  1763  at  *  Whiteside 
Edge,  1928  at  *Cardon  Law,  2040  at  Dundukk'H,  2004 
at  *  Jeffries  Corse,  1178  at  Northshield  Rings,  1024  near 
AVestloch,  and  926  at  Scarce  Rig ;  to  the  right  or  W, 
1020  near  Cringletie,  1561  at  Crailzie  Hill,  1327  at 
Kilrubie  Hill,  1521  at  the  Cloich  Hills,  and  1062  near 
Whiterig,  where  asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  cul- 
minate on  the  confines  of  the  parish.  The  rocks  belong 
chiefly  to  the  Lower  Silurian  formation  ;  the  soils  are  of 
varying  quality.  Less  than  a  fifth  of  the  entire  area  is 
in  tillage,  one-twentieth  is  underwood,  and  fully  seven - 
tenths  are  pastoral  or  waste.  Of  five  prehistoric  hill- 
forts,  the  best  preserved  are  Northshield  (450  x  370  feet) 
and  Milkiston  (550  x  450),  the  former  consisting  of  three 
concentric  oval  walls  and  ditches,  the  latter  of  four. 
The  mansions  are  Portmore,  Darnhall,  and  Cringletie, 
all  separately  noticed  ;  and  3  proprietors  hold  each  an 
annual  value  of  more  than  £500,  3  of  between  £100  and 
£500,  and  2  of  from  £20  to  £50.  Eddleston  is  in  the 
presbytery  of  Peebles  and  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweed- 
dale  ;  the  living  is  worth  £423.  The  church,  built  in 
1829,  contains  420  sittings  ;  and  the  school,  with  accom- 
modation for  106  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attend- 
ance of  83,  and  a  grant  of  £76,  Is.  6d.  Valuation  (1881) 
£10,319,  19s.  Pop.  (1801)  677,  (1831)  836,  (1861)  758, 
(1871)  700,  (1881)  711.— Ore?.  Sur.,  sh.  24,  1864. 

Eddrachalda  or  Calda.     See  Assyxt. 

Eddrachillis  (Gael,  eadar-dc-chaolas,  '  between  two 
firths'),  a  coast  parish  in  the  W  of  Sutherland,  containing 
the  village  of  Scourie,  at  the  head  of  Scourie  Bay,  21 
miles  S  by  W  of  Cape  Wrath,  29  NNE  of  Loch  Inver 
{vid  Kylesku  Ferry),  and  43^  NW  of  Lairg,  under  which 
it  has  a  post  office,  \nt\\  money  order  and  savings'  bank 
departments.  Till  1724  forming  one  parish  witli 
Durness  and  Tongue  as  part  of  '  Lord  Reay's  country,' 
it  now  is  bounded  NE  and  E  by  Durness,  SE  by  Lairg 
and  Creich,  S  and  SW  by  Assynt,  and  W  by  the 
Atlantic  Ocean.  Its  utmost  length,  from  N  by  W  to 
S  by  E,  is  28J  miles  ;  its  utmost  breadth  from  E  to  W, 
exclusive  of  islands,  is  15 J  miles ;  and  its  area  is  226 
square  miles,  or  144,617  acres,  of  which  1059|  are  fore- 
shore and  7985|  water.  Of  thirty-five  islands  and 
islets  belonging  to  the  parish,  and  lying  at  distances  of 
from  a  few  yards  to  2^  miles  from  the  mainland,  only 
Handa  challenges  special  attention.  Kylesku  projects 
far  inland  from  the  sea,  along  the  boundary  with 
Assynt,  and  forks  at  its  head  into  Lochs  Glendhu  and 
Glencoul.  Laxford  and  Inchard  are  only  less  con- 
siderable sea-lochs  ;  and,  save  to  the  N,  the  entire  coast 
is  niched  and  vandykcd  by  a  multitude  of  lesser  inlets. 
The  district  between  Lochs  Laxford  and  Inchard,  and 
eastward  thence  to  the  boundary  with  Durness,  is  called 
in  Gaelic  Ccathramh-cjarhh,  or  the  '  rough  territory  ; ' 
whilst  that  to  the  N  of  Loch  Inchard  bears  the 
name  of  Ashir,  or  '  cultivable  country. '  The  coast, 
which  rises  steeply  in  the  N  to  a  height  of  600  feet 
above  sea-level,  as  seen  from  the  sea  at  a  distance  of 
some  miles,  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  many  parts 
of  the  coasts  of  Norway  ;  both  seaboard  and  interior 
are  reputed  to  be  wilder  and  more  rugged  than  any 
other  region  of  similar  extent  in  Scotland  ;  and  the 
untire  surface,  with  rare  exception,  is  a  grand  assem- 
blage of  crags,  hills,  glens,  ravines,  defiles,  lochs,  tarns, 
torrents,  and  towering  mountains.  The  glens  and 
ravines,  in  many  instances,  are  so  narrow,  tortuous, 
rugged,  and  precipitously  flanked  as  to  be  dangerous  to 
strangers  unattended  by  a  guide.  Of  lakes  tlicrc  is  a 
veritable  net-work,  among  the  larger  being  Sandwood 
Loch  (9x3  furl).  Loch  na  Claise  Carnaich  {I'i  x  4  furl. ; 
490  feet  above  sea-level).  Loch  Slack  (2Jt  miles x  1  mile; 

465 


EDEN 

118  feet),  Loch  More  (4  miles  x  3  furl.  ;  127  feet),  aud 
Loch  an  Leatliaid  Bhiiaiu  (Ig  mile  x  3J  furl.;  690  feet). 
These  generallj'  afford  good  sport  to  auglers,  as  likewise 
do  the  river  Laxford  aud  uumerous  lesser  streams.  The 
mountains  are  variouslj-  isolated,  clustered,  or  in  ranges, 
and,  with  a  great  diversity  of  form  and  altitude,  exhibit 
a  high  degree  of  grandeur  and  picturesqucness,  including, 
from  N  to  S,  *Creag  Eiabhach  (1592  feet),  Ben  Dearg 
.Mhor  (1527),  An  Socuch  (1165),  *Foinaven  (2952),  Sail 
ilhor  (2580),  Ben  Auskaird  (1265),  Ben  Stack  (2364), 
Meallau  Liath  (2625),  Ben  Strome  (1374),  *Ben  Hee 
(2864),  Ben  Leoid  (2597),  and  *Ben  Uidhe  (2384),  where 
asterisks  mark  those  summits  that  culminate  on  the 
borders  of  the  parish.  The  rocks  comiirise  hornblende 
slate,  red  sandstone,  and  limestone,  but  mainly  are 
either  gneissic  or  crystaline.  Very  little  land  is  in 
tillage,  and  even  tliat  little  is  cultivated  solely  by 
manual  labour,  or  with  very  little  aid  from  the  plough. 
The  arable  soil  on  the  coast  and  in  the  valleys,  all  the 
way  between  Kylesku  and  Loch  Inchard,  is  principally 
a  mixture  of  gravel  and  moss  ;  but  in  Ashir  district  is 
dark  loam  intermixed  with  sand.  A  vast  proportion  of 
the  parish  is  included  in  the  Duke  of  Sutherland's  deer 
forest,  and  a  very  large  area  is  devoted  to  sheep  walks. 
Fishing  is  actively  prosecuted,  in  many  instances  by 
the  crofters.  From  remote  ancestors  of  the  Duke  of 
Sutherland  the  entire  territory  was  conveyed  in  the 
early  part  of  the  13th  century  to  the  Morays  of  Culbin, 
and,  passing  by  maniage  about  the  year  1440  to  the 
Kinnairds  of  Kinnaird,  afterwards  went  to  the  Mac- 
leods.  About  1550  it  was  seized  by  a  branch  of  the 
Mackays,  who  took  the  designation  of  Mackays  of 
Scourie  ;  aud  in  1829  it  was  repurchased  by  the  Suther- 
land family,  and  has  since  undergone  great  improve- 
ment in  its  dwellings,  roads,  aud  general  economy. 
Some  ancient  Caledonian  standing  stones  are  at 
Baduabay  ;  and  remains  of  Scandinavian  forts  are  at 
Kylestrome  and  Scourie. — The  parish  is  in  the  presby- 
tery of  Tongue  and  synod  of  Sutlierland  and  Caithness, 
and  is  ecclesiastically  divided  into  Eddrachillis  ])roper 
and  KiNLOCHBERViE,  the  former  a  living  worth  £218. 
The  church,  at  the  head  of  Badcall  Bay,  2h  miles  SSE 
of  Scourie,  contains  275  sittings.  There  are  also  Free 
churches  of  Eddrachillis  and  Kinlochbervie  ;  and  three 
public  schools — Badcall,  Oldshore,  and  Scourie — with  re- 
spective accommodation  for  57,  59,  and  55  children,  had 
(1880)  an  average  attendance  of  44,  36,  and  38,  and  grants 
of  £34,  £22, 15s.,  and£50,  8s.  Valuation  (1860)£3760, 
(1882)  £5167,  2s.  lid.— all  but  £119  held  by  the  Duke 
of  Sutherland.  Pop.  (1801)1253,(1831)1965,  (1861) 
1641,  (1871)  1530,  (1881)  1523,  of  wliom  603  wcro  in 
Scourie  registration  district  and  920  in  that  of  Kinloch- 
bervie.—C^rrf.  Sicr.,  shs.  107,  lOS,  113,  1880-82. 

Eden,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  King-Edward 
parish,  Aberdeenshire.  The  mansion,  standing  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Deveron,  4  miles  SSE  of  Banff,  and 
2^  NW  by  N  of  King-E<lward  station,  is  a  modern 
edifice,  with  beautiful  grounds,  and  commands  an  ex- 
tensive view  of  the  Deveron's  valley.  It  was  the  birth- 
place in  1829  of  the  Right  lion.  Mountstuart  Elphin- 
stone  Grant  Duff,  who  represented  the  Elgin  burghs 
from  1857  to  1881,  when  he  became  Governor  of  Jladras. 
An  old  castle,  g  mile  S  of  Eden  House,  was  once  a  place 
of  considerable  strength,  but  now  is  a  shapeless  ruin. 

Eden,  a  river  of  northern  and  north-eastern  Fife, 
formed  by  the  confluence  of  Carniore  and  Beattie  Burns 
at  Burnside,  on  the  Kinross-shire  border,  3,^  miles  NE 
of  Milnathort,  and  3^  A\'S\V  of  Strathmiglo.  Thence 
it  runs  through  the  jiarish  of  Strathmiglo  ;  between  the 
parishes  of  Auchturmuchty,  Collessie,  and  Monimail  on 
the  left,  of  Falkland,  Kettle,  and  Cults  on  the  right ; 
through  the  parish  and  jtast  the  town  of  Cupar ;  and 
between  the  j>arislies  of  Dairsic  and  I^euihars  on  the 
left,  of  Kemljack  and  St  Andrews  on  the  right — till,  at 
St  Andrews  Bay,  it  falls  into  the  German  Ocean.  Its 
prevailing  direction  is  first  ENE,  next  E,  next  ESE, 
next  and  mainly,  or  from  about  tlie  middle  of  its  con- 
tact with  Collessie,  ENE.  Its  length  of  course,  mea- 
sured along  the  windings,  is  29J  miles,  viz.,  174' from 
466 


EDGERSTON 

Burnside  to  Cupar  Bridge,  and  llf  thence  to  Eden 
Mouth.  Its  tributaries  are  numerous,  but  all  small. 
Its  basin,  for  the  most  part,  is  a  fine  flat  valley,  of  great 
fertility  and  highly  cultivated,  more  beautiful  than  bold 
in  natural  features,  and  bearing  the  names  of  Stratheden 
and  the  Howe  of  Fife.  Large  portions  of  land  on  its 
banks  were  formerly  devastated  by  its  floods,  but  are 
now  protected  by  canal  cuts  and  embankments.  From 
Burnside  the  total  fall  is  only  300  feet ;  and  the  current 
throughout  the  greater  part  of  its  course,  jiarticularly 
below  the  town  of  Cupar,  is  very  slow,  yielding  scanty 
water-power,  but  skilfully  husbanded  for  driving  mills. 
In  spite  of  these  mills,  the  Eden  is  a  very  lair  trouting 
stream,  but  the  ascent  of  salmon  is  hindered  by  various 
danjs.  Its  lowest  reaches,  to  the  extent  of  6  miles,  are 
estuary,  mostly  left  bare  at  the  recess  of  the  tide  ;  and 
have,  midway,  extensive  beds  of  cockles  and  mussels. 
The  river  might,  at  no  great  expense,  be  rendered  navi- 
gable to  Cupar.— Orel.  ISur.,  shs.  40,  48,  49,  1865-68. 

Edendon  Water,  a  mountain  rivulet  in  Blair  Atliole 
parish,  Perthshire,  rising,  at  an  altitude  of  2700  feet, 
among  the  central  Grampians,  close  to  the  Inverness- 
shire  border,  and  SJ  miles  SSE  of  Dalwhiunie  Hotel. 
Thence  it  runs  10  miles  partly  eastward,  but  chiefly 
southward,  and  falls  into  the  Garry  ^  mile  WNAV  of 
Dalnaeardoch,  after  a  total  descent  of  600  feet. — Ord. 
Sur.,  shs.  64,  55,  1874-69. 

Edenham.     See  Ednam. 

Edenkillie.     See  Edinkillie. 

Edenshead,  Edentown,  or  Gateside,  a  village  in 
Strathmiglo  parish,  Fife,  near  the  left  bank  of  the 
Eden,  2  miles  WSW  of  Strathmiglo  town.  It  includes 
the  hamlet  of  Edensbank  to  the  E  ;  adjoins  Edenshead 
House  on  the  S  ;  and  has  a  post  office  (Gateside),  a  sta- 
tion (Gateside)  on  the  Fife  and  Kinross  section  of  the 
North  British,  and  a  U.P.  church. 

Edenstown,  a  neat  modern  village  in  Collessie  parish, 
Fife,  1|  mile  WNW  of  Lady  bank.' 

Eden  Water,  a  stream  of  Berwick  and  Roxburgh  shires, 
rising  in  Legerwood  parish,  Sg  miles  ESE  of  Lauder, 
at  an  altitude  of  860  feet.  Thence  it  winds  232  uiiles 
eastward,  southward,  and  eastward  again,  through  or 
along  tlie  border  of  Legerwood,  Westruther,  Gordon, 
Hume,  Earlston,  Nenthorn,  Smailholm,  Stichill,  Kelso, 
and  Eduam,  till,  after  a  total  descent  of  760  feet,  it  falls 
into  the  Tweed,  at  a  point  IJ  mile  E  of  Ednam  village 
and  3^  miles  NE  of  Kelso  town.  It  is  a  first-rate  trout- 
stream,  especially  above  Stichill  Linn  ;  and  the  lower 
part  of  its  course  is  very  beautiful,  through  rich  and 
liuely-wooded  pastoral  scenery. — Ord.  Sur.,  sh.  25, 
1865. 

Edenwood,  a  mansion  in  Ceres  parish,  Fife,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Eden,  2  miles  SSW  of  Cupar.  Its 
owner,  Sir  George  Campbell,  K. C.S.I,  (b.  1825;  sue. 
1854),  holds  245  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £367  per 
annum.  He  was  Lieut. -Governor  of  Bengal  from  1871 
to  1874,  and  since  1875  has  represented  the  Kirkcaldy 
burghs. 

Ederdoun.     See  Eudeuton. 

Ederham.     See  Eduom. 

Ederline  or  Aligan,  a  pretty  loch  on  the  western 
border  of  CJlassary  jiarish,  Argyllshire,  with  Ford  vil- 
lage near  its  foot.  Lying  122  feet  above  sea-level,  it 
has  an  utmost  length  and  lireadth  of  4  and  2^  furlongs  ; 
contains  a  few  trout  and  some  big  pike,  running  up  to 
30  lbs.  ;  and  sends  off  a  stream  7  furlongs  northward  to 
the  lieatl  of  Loch  Awe.  — 0/(/.  Sur.,  sh.  37,  1876. 

Edgar.     See  Pout  Edgar. 

Edgebucklin  Brae.     See  Pinkie. 

Edgehead,  a  handet  in  Liberton  parish,  Edinburgh- 
shire, 5  furlungs  S8W  ol'  Gilmerton. 

Edgehead,  a  hamlet  in  Cranston  parish,  Edinburgh- 
shire, 3  miles  ESE  of  Dalkeith. 

Edgerston,  a  quoad  sacra  parish  on  the  southern  bor- 
der of  Roxburghshire,  1\  miles  SSE  of  its  post-town 
and  station,  Jedliurgh.  Comprising  tlic  detaehed  sec- 
tions of  Jedburgh  parish,  with  portions  of  Oxnani  and 
Soutlidean,  it  is  in  the  presbytery  of  Jedljuigli  and 
synod  of  Merse  and  Teviotdale  ;  the  minister's  stipend 


EDINAMPLE 

is  £120.  The  church  was  built  in  1838,  and  contains 
200  sittings.  Edgerston  House  here,  near  the  left  bank 
of  au  affluent  of  Jed  Water,  is  the  seat  of  AVilliani  Alex- 
ander Oliver-Rutherfurd,  Esq.  (b.  1818  ;  sue.  1S79), 
who  owns  7703  acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £3463  per 
annum.  A  public  school,  with  accommodation  for  60 
children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  61,  and  a 
grant  of  £62,  lis.  Pop.  (1861)  359,  (1871)  365,  (1881) 
358.— OrcZ.  aS'«/-.,  sh.  17,  1864. 

Edinample,  an  estate,  with  a  mansion,  in  Bahjuhidder 
parish,  Perthshire.  The  mansion,  standing  in  the 
mouth  of  Glen  Ample,  on  the  southern  side  of  the 
upper  part  of  Loch  Earn,  2  miles  NE  of  Lochearnhead 
station,  is  an  ancient  castellated  edifice  ;  and  has  roman- 
tic wooded  grounds,  traversed  by  Ample  "Water,  which 
forms,  in  Iront  of  the  mansion,  a  picturesque  double 
waterfall. 

Edinbain,  a  hamlet  in  Duirinish  parish.  Isle  of  Skye, 
Inverness-shire,  at  the  head  of  Loch  Grishinish,  lOi 
miles  E  of  Dunvegan,  and  IS^  NW  of  Portree,  under 
which  it  has  a  post  office,  with  money  order,  savings' 
bank,  and  telegraph  departments.  At  it  are  a  comfort- 
able little  inn,  a  merchant's  shop,  a  smithy,  a  mill,  a 
public  school,  a  shooting-lodge,  and  a  slated,  stone- 
built  hospital,  founded  and  amply  endowed  by  the  late 
Mr  Macleod  of  Grishinish. 

Edinbellie.     See  Balfron. 

Edinburgh,  the  metropolis  of  Scotland  and  county 
town  of  Midlothian,  is  situated  2  miles  S  of  the  Firth 
of  Forth.  Its  Observatory  on  the  Calton  Hill  stands  in 
lat.  55°  57'  23"  N,  and  long.  3'  10'  30"  "\Y.  It  is  SSW  of 
Aberdeen,  S  by  W  of  Dundee,  S  by  E  of  Pei-th,  E  by  N 
of  Glasgow,  NE  of  Ayr,  and  N  by  E  of  Dumfries.  Its 
distance  in  straight  line,  as  the  crow  flies,  is  186  miles 
from  John  o'  Groat's  House,  and  337  from  London.  Its 
distance,  by  road,  is  35^  miles  from  Stirling,  42  from 
Dundee,  42f  from  Glasgow,  44  from  Perth,  49  fi'om 
Hawick,  57  from  Berwick-upon-Tweed,  71  from  Dum- 
fries, 92^  from  Carlisle,  108  from  Aberdeen,  156i  from 
Inverness,  and  392  from  London  ;  while,  by  railway, 
the  distance  is  36  miles  from  Stirling,  45  from  Perth, 
47^  from  Glasgow,  49i  from  Dundee,  53  from  Hawick, 
57f  from  Berwick-upon-Tweed,  88  from  Ayr,  90  from 
Dumfries,  98;|  from  Carlisle,  112f  from  Aberdeen,  163 
from  Stranraer,  189  from  Inverness,  and  398i  from  Lou- 
don by  way  of  the  Trent  Valley  or  Midland  Railway, 
402  by  way  of  Carlisle  and  Birmingham  or  London  and 
North-Western,  407^  of  Berwick  and  York,  Great  North 
ern  and  East  Coast. 

Site. — The  city  is  built  on  ridges  of  east-and- west- 
ward extension  of  varying  height,  and  on  the  valleys 
between  or  the  slopes  beyond.  The  hills  are  partly 
overlapped  by,  and  partly  extend  beyond,  the  city  ; 
they  occupy  an  area  within  a  circuit  of  about  6  miles  ; 
and,  at  their  northern  margin,  about  2  miles  from 
the  Firth,  are  bounded  by  a  slightly  inclined  plain, 
which  extends  from  them  to  the  shore.  These  hills 
<,'Onsist  mainly  of  erupted  rocks,  tlirown  up  from  what 
was  once  a  flat  surface  by  a  series  of  upheavals,  and 
afterwards  much  modified  by  denudation  and  other 
causes  ;  and,  in  their  natural  state,  before  they  were 
taken  possession  of  hy  man,  must  have  formed  a  sin- 
gularly striking  and  imposing  group.  Arthur's  Seat, 
to  the  SE  of  these,  rises  822  feet  above  .sea-level, 
sloping  or  rolling  to  the  E  over  a  base  of  nearly  a  mile, 
and  presenting  to  the  AV  a  bold,  precipitous,  diver- 
sified face  of  rugged  rock,  with  an  outline,  as  seen  at 
.short  distances  a  little  to  the  S  of  W,  resembling  that 
of  a  lion  couchant.  A  sloping  valley  lies  along  the 
W  base  of  this  hill,  known  as  the  Hunter's  Bog, 
which,  though  not  long  ago  as  solitary  as  any  remote 
Highland  glen,  is  now  used  almost  daily  by  the  Edin- 
burgh garrison  and  local  volunteers  as  a  range  for 
rifle  practice.  Westward  of  this  valley  the  ground  rises 
regularly  over  a  base  of  about  700  yards,  till  it  attains 
a  height  of  574  feet  above  sea-level ;  then  in  a  semi- 
circle, sweeping  round  convexly  from  the  S  to  the  N, 
breaks  sheer  down  in  the  rugged  greenstone  precipices 
of  Salisbury  Crags.     At  tlie  base  of  these  crags  there  is 


EDINBURGH 

a  footpath  several  feet  in  width,  vulgarly  known  as 
the  Radical  Road,  from  which  a  most  commanding 
and  beautiful  jirospect  is  obtained.  A  belt  of  low 
ground,  variously  flat,  sloping,  and  undulating,  lies 
round  the  skirts  of  these  two  hills,  the  whole  attached 
to  the  royal  grounds  of  Holyrood,  and  included  in  what 
is  now  called  the  Queen's  Park.  The  Calton  Hill,  which 
connnences  about  200  yards  NW  of  the  N  end  of  the 
Salisbury  semicircle,  rises,  in  somewhat  rounded  con- 
tour, to  an  altitude  of  348  feet  above  sea-level,  and  re- 
presents, to  the  NW,  an  abruptly  sloping  face,  over- 
looking what  was  an  old  village,  called  Greenside  ;  but, 
in  other  directions,  the  declivities,  though  rapid,  are  by 
no  means  steep,  and  it  has  here  been  so  terraced  by  art 
as  to  afl'ord  room  for  rows  all  round  of  elegant  private 
houses.  It  bears  on  its  shoulders  and  sumuut  various 
public  buildings  and  monuments  ;  and,  like  the  loftier 
hills  to  the  SK,  is  distinguished  for  the  magnificence 
of  the  views  which  it  offers,  as  well  as  the  additional 
feature  it  contributes  to  the  general  aspect  of  the  city. 

The  ground  to  the  W"  of  the  hollow  at  the  base  of 
Salisbury  Crags  rises  in  rapid  gradient,  till,  at  the 
distance  of  500  yards,  it  attains  an  elevation  in  St 
Leonard's  Hill  of  248  feet ;  and  forms  thence  a  broad- 
backed  ridge  of  about  1400  yards  from  E  to  W^  This 
ground  declines  from  its  summit  to  a  flanking  ravine  on 
the  N,  and  slopes  S  by  imperceptible  gradation,  till, 
at  the  distance  of  a  mile,  it  merges  in  flat  or  softly  un- 
dulating open  country.  It  is  covered  over  nearly  all  its 
area  by  the  streets  and  suburbs  of  the  more  modern 
section  of  the  Old  Town.  The  ravine  stretching  E  and 
AV  along  the  N  base  of  this  ridge  is  occupied  by  an 
ancient  sti'eet  knoMn  as  the  Cowgate,  once  the  abode  of 
the  nobles  and  grandees  of  Scotland,  but  now  a  liaunt 
of  the  poorest  classes,  bearing  nearly  the  same  relation 
to  Edinburgh  as  the  district  of  St  Giles  bears  to  Lon- 
don. A  hill,  which  has  been  aptly  compared  to  a  long 
wedge  lying  flat  on  the  ground,  ascends  gradttally  west- 
warel  from  the  hollow  between  Salisbury  Crags  and  the 
Calton  Hill,  to  a  distance  of  1800  yards,  flanking  closely 
tlie  N  side  of  the  Cowgate.  It  commences  on  the  E 
at  level  ground  in  front  of  Holyrood  Palace,  and  ter- 
minates on  the  AV,  at  an  altitude  of  437  feet  above  sea- 
level,  in  the  frowning  citadel  crowning  the  grandly 
massive  precipice  of  the  Castle  rock.  It  was  along  the 
ridge  of  this  hill  that  the  original  city  was  at  length  built, 
which  consisted,  as  it  still  does,  of  one  long  street  stretch- 
ing steadily  upwards  from  the  Palace  to  the  Castle,  flanked 
all  the  way  by  tall  tenements,  and  sending  off  no  end  of 
close  lanes  of  similar  ])iles  in  downward  slope  to  the 
right  and  left,  so  that  the  whole  has  been  compared  to 
some  huge  reptile  figure,  of  which  the  closes  were  the 
lateral  members,  Hohrood  the  tail,  and  the  Castle  the 
head.  A  vale,  averaging  abotit  200  yards  wide,  extends 
along  the  N  base  of  this  wedge-shaped  hill,  which,  where 
it  lies  under  the  wing  of  the  city  proper,  yras  formerly  the 
bed  of  a  sheet  of  water,  called  the  Nor  Loch  ;  but  is 
now  drained,  being  occupied  partly  by  public  gardens, 
partly  by  railway  lines  and  a  station,  and  crossed  bj-  a 
mound  and  bridges.  An  eminence,  or  very  gentle  and 
broad-backed  ridge,  with  features  much  less  salient  than 
those  of  any  of  the  other  rising-grounds,  ascends  north- 
ward from  the  vale  to  a  distance  of  about  250  yards,  and 
descends  thence,  in  the  main,  in  a  long  easy  slope,  to 
the  plain  between  the  city  and  the  Firth.  It  swells, 
near  its  eastern  extremity,  into  a  considerable  rounded 
shoulder,  terminating  at  that  end  in  a  curving  gorge 
which  separates  it  from  the  Calton  Hill  ;  declines,  at  its 
AV  extrenuty  ]>artly  in  almost  impercejitible  slope  to  the 
environing  low  ground,  partly  in  considerable  declivity 
to  the  banks  of  the  AVater  of  Leith  ;  and  bears,  on  its 
southern  half,  the  original  New  Town,  and  on  its  northern 
half  and  western  slopes,  the  second  Ntw  Town. 

Most  travellers  who  have  visited  botli  cities  have  re- 
marked a  resemblance,  as  to  site  and  general  appearance, 
between  Edinburgh  and  Athens.  Stewart,  tlie  author 
of  The  Antiquities  of  Athens,  was  the  first  to  remark 
and  describe  the  similarity  ;  and  he  has  been  followed 
by  Dr  Clarke,  Mr  H.    AV.   AVilliains,  and  many  other 

467 


EDINBURGH 

descriptive  writers  well  qualified  to  form  a  correct  jiiilg- 
ment,  so  that  Edinburwli  has,  by  almost  general  consent, 
been  called  'ilodern  Athens,'  and  tlie  'Athens  of  the 
North.'  '  The  distant  view  of  Athens  from  the  yEgean 
Sea,'  says  Mr  "Williams,  'is  extremely  like  that  of  Edin- 
bnrgh  from  the  Firth  of  Forth,  tliongh  certainly  the 
latter  is  considerably  superior.'  'There  arc,' he  adds, 
'several  points  of  view  on  the  elevated  grounds  near 
Edinburgh,  from  which  the  resemblance  between  the 
two  cities  is  complete.  From  Torphin  in  particular, 
one  of  the  low  heads  of  the  Pentlands  immediately 
above  the  village  of  Colinton,  the  landscape  is  exactly 
that  of  the  vicinity  of  Athens  as  viewed  from  the  bottom 
of  ilount  Anchesmns.  Close  upon  the  right,  Brilessus 
is  represented  by  the  Mound  of  Braid  ;  before,  in  the 
abrupt  and  dark  mass  of  the  Castle,  rises  the  Acropolis; 
the  hill  Lycabettus,  joined  to  that  of  the  Areopagus, 
appears  in  the  Calton  ;  in  the  Firth  of  Forth  we  behold 
the  ^gean  Sea  ;  in  Inchkeith,  ^gina  ;  and  the  hills  of 
Peloponnesus  are  precisely  those  of  the  opposite  coast  of 
Fife.  Nor  is  the  resemblance  less  striking  in  the  general 
characteristics  of  the  scene  ;  for,  although  we  cannot  ex- 
claim, "These  are  the  groves  of  the  Academy,  and  that 
the  Sacred  Way !"  yet,  as  on  the  Attic  shore,  we  certainly 
here  behold  "a  country  rich  and  gay,  broke  into  hills  with 
balmy  odours  crowned,  and  jo3^ous  vales,  mountains  and 
streams,  and  clustering  towns,  and  monuments  of  fame, 
and  scenes  of  glorious  deeds,  in  little  bounds."  It  is, 
indeed,  most  remarkable  and  astonishing  that  two  cities, 
placed  at  such  a  distance  from  each  other,  and  so  dif- 
ferent in  every  political  and  artificial  circumstance, 
should  naturally  be  so  alike.'  When  comparing  the 
two  cities  as  to  their  interior  structure,  however,  ^Ir 
Williams  sees  a  considerable  diff'erence  between  them,  and 
pronounces  Edinburgh  to  be  the  superior.  He  says, 
'  The  epithets  Northern  Athens  and  Modern  Athens 
have  been  so  frequently  applied  to  Edinburgh  that  the 
mind  unconsciously  yields  to  the  illusion  awakened  by 
these  terms,  and  imagines  that  the  resemblance  between 
these  cities  must  extend  from  the  natural  localities  and 
the  public  buildings  to  the  streets  and  private  edifices. 
The  very  reverse  of  this  is  the  case  ;  for,  setting  aside 
her  public  structures,  Athens,  even  in  her  best  days, 
could  not  have  coped  with  the  capital  of  Scotland. ' 

Scenery. — Edinburgh,  from  whatever  point  the  eye 
regards  it,  presents  a  variety  of  scenic  gi'oupings  of  such 
singular  eftect  as  is  met  with  in  no  other  citj'  of  the 
world.  Though  there  is  nothing  gorgeous  or  sumptuous 
in  any  one  feature,  neither  is  there  anything  mean  ;  it 
is,  in  a  scenic  regard,  a  city  all  over,  and  bespeaks  a 
presence  as  of  something  at  once  grand  and  venerable. 
A  stranger  coming  within  fair  view  of  it  from  any 
quarter  sees  no  aerial  dome  towering  above  a  sea  of 
of  humbler  piles  as  in  Rome  and  London,  and  no  grove 
of  turrets  shooting  up  from  some  majestic  cathedral  as 
in  Milan  and  York  ;  but,  wherever  he  turns,  there  is 
presented  to  him  a  rich  and  varied  assemblage  of  sub- 
stantial, often  imposing,  structures — noAV  retiring  into 
the  valleys,  now  climbing  the  acclivities,  now  spreading 
over  the  slopes,  and  anon  crowning  the  summits  of  its 
romantic  hills.  He  observes  nowhere,  as  in  so  many  of 
the  other  cities  of  world  repute,  a  mere  dingy  conglo- 
meration of  commonplace  houses,  clustered  round  some 
magnificent  edifice,  or  hugging  the  environs  of  some 
handsome  airy  street,  but  on  all  hands  elegance,  beauty, 
variety,  and  grandeur  struggling  for  ascendancy,  and 
contributing  by  their  harmony  to  produce  the  most 
unique  and  superb  effects.  Plainness,  poverty,  un- 
sightliness,  even  offensive  squalor,  as  well  mal-arrange- 
ment  and  positive  confusion,  do,  as  in  all  our  large 
town.s,  indeed  shallenge  censurable  regard  ;  but  these 
do  not  strike  the  eye  with  such  obtrusiveness  as  to 
mar  the  general  effect,  or,  if  they  do,  it  is  often  with 
some  redeeming  feature  or  association  as  to  contribute 
to,  rather  than  detract  from,  the  impression  the  city 
a.s  a  rule  imparts.  Nor,  as  the  eye  surveys  them, 
are  nhe  surroundings,  far  as  well  as  near,  of  the  city, 
the  framework  in  wliich  the  jewel  is  set,  less  striking 
lliau  the  interior.  These  extend  from  the  Lammermuirs 
46S 


EDINBURGH 

on  the  SE  to  the  Grampians  on  the  NW,  and  from  the 
open  sea  of  the  German  Ocean  to  the  very  sources  of  the 
Forth  ;  and,  besides  what  ma}'  still  further  be  regarded 
as  back-ground,  consisting  of  high  lands  and  low,  they 
em])race  nearly  the  whole  of  the  Firth,  a  great  part  of 
Fife,  and  a  still  greater  part  of  the  richly  cultivated, 
fairly  wooded,  hill-and-dale  expanse  of  the  Lothians  ; 
so  that,  if  we  except  the  moodily  desolate,  tiie  wildl}' 
grand,  and  the  savagely  terrible,  there  is  hai-dly  a  single 
aspect  of  Nature  to  be  met  with  elsewhere  of  which  we 
may  not  trace  some  feature  here.  It  is  thus  these  scenes 
are  described  by  Delta  in  the  well-known  lines — 

'  Traced  like  a  map  the  landscape  lies. 
In  cultured  beauty  stretching  wide  ; 

Tliere  Pentland's  green  acclivities. 
There  ocean  with  its  azure  tide, 

There  Arthur's  Seat,  and,  gleaming  through 

The  southern  wing,  Dunedin  blue  ; 

While  in  the  Orient  Lanimer's  daughters, 
A  distant  giant  range,  are  seen, 
North  Berwick  Law,  with  cone  of  green. 

And  Bass  amid  the  waters.' 

Picturesque  views  of  the  city,  either  by  itself  or  in  com- 
bination with  strips  of  foreground,  may  be  obtained 
from  various  points  all  round  and  beyond  tlie  outskirts, 
each  one  of  which,  as  it  embraces  separately  distinct 
features  and  groupings,  will  be  found  to  be  more  or  less 
substantially  different  from  the  others.  One  at  hand 
on  the  W,  especiallj'  from  the  lands  of  Coates,  takes 
in  the  new  princel}'  piles  in  the  neighbourhood,  the 
spire  of  St  Marj-'s  Cathedral,  the  dome  of  St  George's 
parish  church,  the  campanile  of  Free  St  George's,  with, 
farther  back,  the  tower  and  pinnacles  of  St  John's,  and 
the  massive,  bastioned,  mural  rock  of  the  Castle  ;  while 
at  a  station  more  remote,  particularly  from  Corstor- 
phine  Hill,  a  view  of  wider  range  is  obtained,  which, 
besides  including  the  objects  mentioned  in  diminished 
proportions,  embraces  a  great  part  of  the  New  Town 
as  it  slopes  dowm  to  the  shores  of  the  Forth,  with  the 
heights  of  the  Old  declining  away  eastward,  dominated 
by  the  smoke-veiled  cliffs  of  Salisbury  Crags  \vith  Arthur's 
Seat  in  their  rear.  A  near  view  from  the  N  side,  espe- 
cially one  from  Warriston  Cemetery  and  another  from 
the  Botanic  Garden,  comprises  all  the  New  Town  to 
the  N  as  it  slopes  upward  to  tlie  Old  Town  with  its 
towers  and  castle-battlements  invading  the  sky,  flanked 
to  the  right  by  the  heights  above  the  Dean,  and  to  the 
left  by  the  Calton  Hill  with  its  monuments,  and  another 
sideward  view  of  Arthur's  Seat  and  the  Crags.  Farther 
N  this  view,  though  always  of  course  on  a  smaller  scale, 
becomes  more  and  more  pictures(iue,  till,  as  you  ap- 
proach and  land  on  the  Fife  shores  right  opposite,  the 
whole  assumes  a  toy-box  dimension,  with  the  ports  of 
Leith  and  Granton  on  the  foreground  and  the  blue  ridges 
of  the  Lammermuirs  and  the  Pentlands  traced  on  the 
vault  behind.  Views  of  the  city  from  the  E  may  be 
obtained  from  the  Calton  Hill,  Salisbury  Crags,  and 
Arthur's  Seat.  That  from  the  Calton  Hill,  from  which 
the  view  all  round  is  of  a  kind  to  baffle  description, 
overlooks  the  city  along  the  line  of  Princes  Street  with 
the  New  Town,  backed  by  the  western  hills,  on  the 
right,  as  it  first  rises  with  its  spires  and  monuments, 
and  slopes  away  down  to  tlie  N  ;  and  the  Old  Town  on 
the  left,  as  it  slopes  upwards,  flanked  by  the  Crags,  from 
Holyrood  to  the  Castle  summit,  with  the  hazy  Pentlands 
looming  in  the  background. 

The  view  from  the  face  of  Salisbury  Crags  is  thus  de- 
scribed by  Sir  Walter  Scott :  '  The  prosjiect,  in  its 
general  outline,  commands  a  close-built,  high-piled  city, 
stretching  itself  out  in  a  form  which,  to  a  romantic 
imagination,  may  be  supposed  to  represent  that  of  a 
dragon  ;  now  a  noble  arm  of  the  sea,  with  its  rocks,  isles, 
distant  shores,  and  boundary  of  mountains  ;  and  now  a 
fair  and  fertile  chami)aign  country,  varied  with  hill, 
dale,  and  rock,  and  skirted  by  the  picturesque  ridge  of 
the  Pentland  mountains  ;  but  as  the  path  gently  circles 
around  the  base  of  the  cliffs,  the  prospect,  composed  as 
it  is  of  these  enchanting  and  sulilime  objects,  changes  at 
every  step,  and  presents  tliem  blended  with,  or  divided 


EDINBURGH 

from,  each  other  in  every  jio.s.sible  variety  wliieh  can 
gratify  the  eye  and  the  inuiffination. '  The  view  from 
the  top  of  Arthur's  Seat  is  much  tlie  same  as  that  from 
Salisbury  Crags,  except  that  it  is  more  sweeping,  and 
haa  the  crest  of  the  crags  on  the  western  foregi'ound.  A 
good  view  from  the  E  of  the  city  proper,  exclusive  of 
the  environs,  is  obtained  from  St  Anthony's  Chapel. 
Here  at  his  feet  the  spectator  sees  on  the  right  the 
northern  section  of  the  Queen's  Park,  with  Holyrood 
Palace  and  the  Chapel  Koyal ;  beyond  these,  the  terraced 
ascent  of  the  Calton  Hill,  with  its  tiers  in  rows  and 
separate  piles  of  remarkable  architectures  and  sculp- 
tures ;  in  front  the  valley  between  the  Old  Tov\'n  and 
the  Xew,  spanned  by  the  lofty  North  Bridge  ;  and  toward 
the  left,  all  the  old  city  itself,  towering  u})ward  from  the 
point  of  the  wedge,  ridge  above  ridge,  and  grandly  fretted 
and  crowned  with  heaven-pointing  spires  and  detiant 
battlements.  The  views  from  the  S,  both  near  and  dis- 
tant, are  at  once  numerous  and  excellent,  most  of  these 
affoi'ding  distinct  profiles  of  Arthur's  Seat  and  Salisbury 
Crags  on  the  right  and  of  the  Castle  rock  and  ramparts 
on  the  left,  with  much  of  the  intermediate  architecture 
of  the  Old  Town  and  the  suburb  of  the  city  in  the 
foreground,  wliieh  already  all  but  occupies  the  entire 
southern  slope.  One  of  the  noblest  on  this  side  is  the 
view  from  Blackford  Hill,  and  is  thus  described  by  Sir 
"Walter  Scott  as  seen  by  Lord  Maimiou,  'fairer  scene 
he  ne'er  surveyed  : ' 

'  The  wandering  eye  could  o'er  it  go. 
And  mark  the  distant  city  glow 

With  gloomy  splendour  red  ; 
For  on  the  smoke-wreaths,  huge  and  slow, 
That  round  her  sable  turrets  flow. 

The  morning  beams  were  shed, 
And  tinged  them  with  a  lustre  proud 
Like  that  which  streaks  a  thundercloud. 
Such  dusky  grandeur  clothed  the  height 
Where  the  huge  castle  holds  its  state, 

And  all  the  steep  slope  down, 
AMiose  ridgy  back  heaves  to  the  sky, 
Piled  deep  and  mass}',  close  and  high, 

iline  own  romantic  town  ! 
But  northward  far,  witli  purer  blaze, 
On  Ochil  mountains  fell  the  rays, 
And  as  each  heathy  top  they  kissed, 
It  gleamed  a  purple  amethyst. 
Yonder  the  shores  of  Fife  you  saw  ; 
Here  Preston  Bay  and  Berwick  Law ; 

And  broad,  between  them  rolled. 
The  gallant  Firth  the  e.re  might  note. 
Whose  islands  on  its  bosom  fioat, 

Like  emeralds  chased  in  gold.' 

The  views  of  the  city  from  the  interior  are  often  no 
less  striking  than  those  from  without,  and  the  former 
as  well  as  the  latter  often  give  rise  to  impressions  that 
are  quite  unique.  Not  to  mention  the  more  artificial 
adornments,  architectural  and  other,  with  their  grouping 
and  array,  there  are  the  imposing  natural  features,  with 
beetling  cliSs  and  hollow  or  open  dells,  and  rich  inter- 
spaces of  wooded  lawn,  tended  by  the  art  of  the  gardener, 
and  interspersed  or  bordered  here  and  there  with  gay 
parterres.  The  streets  also,  even  in  the  central  parts, 
afibrd,  through  abrupt  openings,  numerous  prosjjects, 
both  charming  and  extensive,  along  unobstructed  vistas, 
or  over  masses  of  house-tops,  away,  by  varied  landscape, 
over  firth  and  dale,  on  to  the  often  far-otf  mountains, 
and  in  one  direction  the  open  sea.  '  The  finest  view 
from  the  interior,' says  Alexander  Smith,  'is  obtained 
from  the  corner  of  St  Andrew  Street,  looking  W. 
Straight  before  you  the  Mound  crosses  the  valley,  bear- 
ing the  National  Gallery  buildings  ;  beyond,  the  Castle 
lifts,  from  grassy  slopes  and  billows  of  summer  foliage, 
its  weather-stained  towers  and  fortifications,  the  half- 
moon  battery  giving  the  folds  of  its  standard  to  the 
wind.  Living  in  Edinburgh  there  abides,  above  all 
things,  a  sense  of  its  beauty.  Hill,  crag,  castle,  rock, 
blue  stretch  of  sea,  the  j)ict'ares(|ue  ridge  of  the  Old 
Town,  the  squares  and  tenaces  of  the  New — these  things, 
seen  once,  are  not  to  be  forgotten.  The  quick  life  of 
to-day  sounding  around  the  relics  of  antiquity,  and 
overshadowed  by  the  august  traditions  of  a  kingdom, 
makes  Edinburgh  more  impressive  tluan  residence  in  any 
other  British  city.    What  a  poem  is  that  Princes  Street ! 


EDINBURGH 

The  puppets  of  the  busy  many-coloured  hour  move 
about  on  its  jiavement,  while  across  the  ravine  Time 
has  piled  the  Old  Town,  ridge  on  ridge,  grey  as  a  rocky 
coast  waslied  and  worn  liy  the  foam  of  centuries,  peaked 
and  jagged  by  gable  and  roof,  windowed  from  basement 
to  cope,  the  whole  surmounted  by  St  Giles's  airy  crown. 
Tlie  New  is  there  looking  at  the  Old.  Two  'limes  are 
brought  face  to  face,  and  are  yet  separated  by  a  thousand 
years.  Wonderful  on  winter  nights,  when  the  gully  is 
filled  with  darkness,  and  out  of  it  rises,  against  the 
sombre  blue  and  the  frosty  stars,  that  mass  and  bulwark 
of  gloom,  pierced  and  (luivering  with  innumerable  lights  ! 
There  is  nothing  in  Europe  to  match  that.  Could  you 
but  roll  a  river  down  the  valley,  it  would  be  sublime. 
Finer  still,  to  place  one's  self  near  the  Burns'  Monument 
and  look  toward  the  Castle.  It  is  more  astonishing 
than  an  Eastern  dream.  A  city  rises  up  before  you 
painted  by  fire  on  night.  High  on  air  a  bridge  of 
lights  leaps  the  chasm  ;  a  few  emerald  lamps,  like 
glowworms,  are  moving  silently  about  in  the  railway 
station  below  ;  a  solitary  crimson  one  is  at  rest.  That 
ridged  and  chimneyed  hulk  of  blackness,  with  splendour 
bursting  out  at  every  pore,  is  the  wonderful  Old  Town, 
where  Scottish  history  mainly  transacted  itself ;  while, 
opposite,  the  modern  Princes  Street  is  blazing  through- 
out its  length.  During  the  day  the  Castle  looks  down 
upon  the  city  as  if  out  of  another  world  ;  stem  vrith  all 
its  peacefidness,  its  garniture  of  trees,  its  slopes  of  grass. 
The  rock  is  dingy  enough  in  colour  ;  but,  after  a  shower, 
its  lichens  laugh  out  greenly  in  the  returning  sun,  while 
the  rainbow  is  brightening  oa  the  lowering  sky  beyond. 
How  deep  the  shadow  which  the  Castle  throws  at  noon 
over  the  gardens  at  its  feet  where  the  children  play  1 
How  grand  when  giant  bulk  and  towery  crown  blacken 
against  sunset !  Fair,  too,  the  New  Town  sloping  to 
the  sea.  From  George  Street,  which  crowns  the  ridge, 
the  eye  is  led  down  sweeping  streets  of  stately  architec- 
ture to  the  villas  and  woods  that  fill  the  lower  ground 
and  fringe  the  shore ;  to  the  bright  azure  belt  of  the 
Forth,  -with  its  smoking  steamer  or  its  creeping  sail ; 
beyond,  to  the  shores  of  Fife,  soft  blue,  and  flecked  with 
fleeting  shadows  in  the  keen  clear  light  of  spring,  dark 
purple  in  the  summer  heat,  tarnished  gold  in  the  autumn 
haze  ;  and  further  away  still,  just  distinguishable  on  the 
paler  sky,  the  crest  of  some  distant  peak  carrying  the 
imagination  into  the  illimitable  world.'  The  finest 
close  view  of  the  northern  half  of  the  city  is  seen  at  the 
head  of  the  Castle  Hill,  from  the  N  sidfe  of  the  Castle 
esplanade ;  or,  still  better,  from  the  bomb-battery  of 
the  Castle  itself,  where  the  lovely  space  between  the  Old 
Town  and  the  New  appears  almost  perpendicularly  under 
the  eye,  with  the  Scott  Monument  on  its  furtJier  verge, 
the  Melville  Monument  rising  a  little  beyond,  and  the 
greater  part  of  the  New  Town  all  around. 

'  Saint  Margaret,  what  a  sight  is  here  ! 
Long  lines  of  masonrj'  appear  ; 
Scott's  Gothic  pinnacles  arise, 
And  Melville's  st.'itue  greets  the  skies, 
And  sculptured  front  and  Grecian  pile 
The  pleased  yet  puzzled  eye  beguile ; 
From  yon  far  landscape  where  the  sea 
Smiles  on  in  softest  witcherv ; 
Till,  riant  all,  the  hills  of  Fife 
Fill  in  the  charms  of  country  life.' 

Geology. — Edinburgh  has  always  been  a  favourite  field 
for  geological  investigation.  Ever  since  the  days  of 
Hutton,  the  volcanic  rocks  which  are  so  well  developed 
on  Arthur's  Seat,  the  Calton  Hill,  and  at  the  Castle,  have 
been  the  subject  of  careful  study  among  geologists.  The 
striking  features  to  which  these  igneous  rocks  give  rise, 
arrest  the  attention  even  of  the  non-scientific  observer. 
Indeed,  few  cities  present  such  remarkable  facilities  for 
examining  the  structure  and  physical  relations  of  ancient 
volcanic  rocks.  The  literature  bearing  on  the  geology 
of  Edinburgh  and  its  environs  is  rather  voluminous. 
Amongst  the  various  writers  on  the  subject,  the  names 
of  Hutton,  Playfair,  Sir  James  Hall,  Hibbert,  Jamiesou, 
Hay  Cunningham,  Edward  Forbes,  Hugh  Miller,  Cliarles 
M'Laren,  A.  Geikie,  R.  Chambers,  Milne  Home,  and 
Judd,  may  be  mentioned.    Special  reference  ought  to  be 

469 


Cementstone 
Series. 


Red  Sandstone 
Series. 


EDINBURGH 

made  to  the  admiral  ile.  volume  on  The  Gcolorjy  of  Fife 
and  the  Lothians,  by  Charles  M'Laren,  and  to  Profe.ssor 
A.  Geikie's  lucid  descrijition  of  the  Geology  of  Edin- 
burgh. * 

With  the  exception  of  Blackford  Hill,  which  is  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  Lower  Old  Red  Sandstone  volcanic  rocks 
of  the  Pentlands,  the  newer  portion  of  Arthur's  Seat, 
and  several  isolated  veins  of  igneous  rock,  the  solid 
rocks  which  underlie  the  city  of  Edinburgh  and  Leith 
belong  to  the  lowest  divisions  of  the  Carboniferous 
system.  On  account  of  the  strata  being  largely  impreg- 
nated with  lime,  they  were  appropriately  named  by 
M'Laren  the  Calciferous  Sandstone  Series — a  term  which 
is  now  generally  applied  to  them.  They  may  be  arranged 
in  three  divisions  : — 

(  _  fZ.  An  upper  division  of  white  sand- 

!  stones,  black  and  blue  shales, 
I  containing  nodules  of  claj'  iron- 
^    stone. 

2.  A  middle  division  of  interbedded 
volcanic     rocks,     consisting    of 
basalts,   porphyrites,  and  tuffs, 
Calciferous  with  intercalated  beds  of  sand- 

Sandstone  ■{  stone. 

Series.  f\.  A  lower   division    of   red   and 

mottled  sandstones,  red,  green, 
and  grey  shales  and  marls,  with 
calcareous  nodules  and  bands 
merging  occasionally  into  pure 
limestones.  Coarse  conglomer- 
ates occur  at  the  base  of  this 
grouiJ. 

The  members  of  the  lowest  division  occupy  an  irregular 
area,  bounded  by  the  Braid  Hills  on  the  S,  Arthur's 
Seat  on  the  E,  and  the  Calton  Hill  on  the  N,  while  the 
western  limit  is  sharply  defined  by  the  great  fault  ex- 
tending from  Craiglockhart  north-eastwards  byMerchis- 
ton  and  the  Castle  esplanade,  to  the  NW  slope  of 
Calton  Hill.  "Within  this  area  the  strata  are  arranged 
in  the  form  of  a  low  arch,  the  crest  of  which  runs  from 
Blackford  Hill  to  St  Andrew  Square.  As  this  anticlinal 
fold  is  truncated  on  the  W  by  the  fault  just  referred  to, 
it  is  only  on  the  E  side  of  the  arch  that  the  complete 
succession  can  be  traced.  The  lowest  beds  are  exposed 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Blackford  Hill  where  they  con- 
sist of  conglomerates  composed  of  pebbles,  chiefly  derived 
from  the  Old  Red  Sandstone  volcanic  rocks.  They  rest 
unconformably  on  these  igneous  rocks,  and  are  not 
faulted  against  them  as  has  hitherto  been  supposed.  It 
is  important  to  note  that  the  strata  to  the  W  of  Black- 
ford Hill  occup}'  a  higher  horizon  than  those  on  the  E 
side.  As  we  pass  to  the  SW  this  overlap  gradually 
increa.ses  till  the  members  of  the  Upper  or  Cementstone 
Series  rest  directly  on  the  Old  Red  Sandstone  formation. 
This  overlap  indicates  the  gradual  submergence  of  the 
Pentland  ridge  in  the  early  part  of  the  Carboniferous 
period.  At  the  beginning  of  that  period  the  Pentlands 
formed  a  promontory  jutting  far  into  the  sea,  in  which 
the  red  sandstones  were  deposited,  but  eventually  the 
ridge  was  submerged  and  buried  beneath  the  accumulat- 
ing sediment  of  the  succeeding  groups.  Excellent 
sections  of  these  basement  conglomerates  are  to  be 
seen  at  present  in  the  cuttings  of  the  new  Suburban 
railway. 

Next  in  order  come  the  sandstones  of  Craigmillar,  and 
the  strata  which  are  exposed  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
town,  consisting  of  red  sandstones  with  red  and  green 
marls.  In  the  districts  of  Newington,  Grange,  the 
Meadows,  and  Warrender  Park,  these  beds  dip  to  the  N 
at  angles  varying  from  10  to  15  degrees,  while  to  the  W 
of  these  localities  they  dip  to  the  NW — thus  indicating 
the  dome-shaped  arrangement  of  the  strata.  Excellent 
sections  have  been  recently  exposed  in  the  course  of  ex- 
cavations in  Warrender  Park.  They  also  occur  in 
Gilmore  Place  with  an  inclination  to  the  NW,  and  tiiey 
reappear  at  the  head  of  Keir  Street  with  an  easterly  ilip. 
The  anticlinal  axis  must  therefore  run  northwards  be- 
tween these  two  points.  The  same  beds  are  well  dis- 
played on  the  S  slope  of  the  Castle  esplanade  as  seen 
from  Johnston  Terrace.     In  this  well-known  section,  the 

•  Geological  Survey  Memoir  accompanying   Sheet  32  of  the 
1-inch  Ma|>. 
470 


EDINBURGH 

honeycombed  sandstones  with  red  and  green  marls  are 
brought  into  conjunction  with  the  plug  of  basalt  on  which 
the  Castle  stands,  by  the  great  fault  already  referred  to. 
They  dip  to  the  E  at  an  angle  of  from  15  to  20  degrees, 
but  as  they  approach  the  fault  they  become  horizontal, 
and  eventually  bend  over  till  the}-  conform  to  the  hade  of 
the  fault  which  is  inclined  at  an  angle  of  SO  degrees  to 
the  NW.  The  SE  slope  of  the  plug  of  basalt  is 
beautifully  slickensided.  The  stripe,  however,  are  not 
vertical,  but  are  slightly  inclined  to  the  NE,  show- 
ing a  faint  lateral  thrust  in  that  direction,  as  well 
as  a  downthrow  to  the  NW.  From  the  Castle  east- 
wards to  Holyrood  and  the  Hunter's  Bog  there  is  a 
continuous  easterly  dip  at  an  average  angle  of  15  de- 
grees, where  they  pass  conformably  below  the  inter- 
bedded volcanic  rocks  of  Arthur's  Seat  (division  2). 
Fossils  rarely  occur  in  the  red  sandstones.  Fragments 
of  wood  have  been  found  in  the  beds  at  Craig- 
millar, which  are  probably  the  remains  of  pine-like 
Arancoria.  In  the  quarry  above  Salisbury  Crags,  a 
small  Estheria  Peacliii  was  found  by  Jlr  Grieve.  Under 
St  Anthony's  Chapel,  in  a  bed  cran^med  with  vegetable 
matter,  Mr  Bryson  found  specimens  of  Dadoxylon,  and 
Professor  A.  Geikie  obtained  fragments  of  Poncitcs  and 
the  remains  of  EMzodus  Hibherti.  The  beds  at  that 
locality  lie  above  the  first  interbedded  lava-flow,  now 
represented  by  the  Long  Row,  and  it  is  probable,  there- 
fore, that  they  belong  to  the  Cementstone  Series. 

Towards  the  close  of  the  deposition  of  the  red  sand- 
.stones,  volcanic  aetjvity  seems  to  have  begun  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Edinburgh.  From  certain  volcanic 
oritices,  streams  of  lava  and  showers  of  ashes  were 
ejected  and  spread  over  the  sea-floor,  which  at  intervals 
were  commingled  with  ordinary  sediment.  The  records 
of  this  volcanic  action  are  still  preserved  to  us  on 
Arthur's  Seat,  the  Calton  Hill,  and  at  Craiglockhart. 
These  interbedded  volcanic  rocks  must  be  carefully  dis- 
tinguished from  the  three  great  intrusive  sheets  of 
igneous  rock  which  were  injected  between  the  red  sand- 
stones forming  the  westei'u  base  of  Arthur's  seat.  On 
account  of  their  durability  these  intrusive  sheets  have 
more  successfully  resisted  the  denuding  agencies  than 
the  intervening  sandstones,  and  hence  they  now  form 
the  prominent  escarpments  of  St  Leonard's,  Salisbury 
Crags,  and  the  Dasses.  The  first  outflow  of  lava  is  re- 
presented by  the  compact  basalt  of  the  Long  Row  which 
is  overlaid  by  tufls,  volcanic  breccias,  and  ashy  sand- 
stones which  are  well  exposed  at  the  Dry  Dam. 
The  general  character  of  these  volcanic  ashes  is 
diff"erent  from  the  coarse  agglomerate  which  now  forms 
the  higher  part  of  the  hill,  and  which  was  ejected 
at  a  much  later  date.  The  tuffs  and  ashj^  sandstones 
are  succeeded  by  basaltic  lavas  and  porphyrites,  the 
latter  forming  the  slopes  of  the  Whinny  Hill  and  Dun- 
sappie.  The  junction  of  these  rocks  with  the  overlying 
shales  and  sandstones  (division  3)  is  not  seen  on  the 
eastern  slope  of  Arthur's  Seat,  owing  to  the  covering  of 
superficial  deposits.  The  evidence  is  supplied,  however, 
by  the  section  on  Calton  Hill. 

The  contemporaneous  volcanic  rocks  of  Arthur's  Seat 
are  truncated  on  the  N  side  by  an  E  and  W  fault — an  off- 
shoot from  the  main  dislocation  trending  from  Craiglock- 
hart by  the  Castle  to  the  NW  slope  of  Calton  Hill.  This 
branching  fault  has  a  downthrow  to  the  N,  and  by 
means  of  it  the  outcrop  of  the  interbedded  volcanic  rocks 
of  Arthur's  Seat  has  been  shifted  about  half  a  mile  to 
the  W  as  far  as  the  Calton  Hill.  The  existence  of  this 
fault  was  clearly  proved  several  years  ago  in  the  course  of 
(Iraining  operations  along  the  Canongate,  where  a  con- 
tinuous section  was  exposed  of  red  sandstones  and  marls, 
with  a  few  dykes  of  igneous  rock.  The  succession  of 
the  volcanic  rocks  of  Calton  Hill  closely  resembles  that 
of  Arthur's  Seat.  At  the  base  there  is  a  series  of  basaltic 
lavas  and  tulfs  which  are  overlaid  by  ])orphyritcs  forming 
the  higher  part  of  the  hill.  To  the  E  they  are  rapidly 
succeeded  by  black  shales  and  sandstones  (division  3) 
occurring  in  the  gardens  of  Royal  Terrace,  while  on 
the  NW  slope  of  the  hill  they  are  abruptly  cut  off  by 
the  great  fault  already  described. 


EDINBURGH 

The  strata  of  the  nppnr  ilivision  difft>r  from  tlie  red 
sandstones  in  litholo^ical  character,  and  particularly  in 
the  greater  abundance  of  fossils.  Within  the  present 
area,  the  prominent  members  of  the  Cementstone  Series 
are  the  white  sandstones  of  Granton  and  Craiglcith, 
and  the  Wardie  shales.  Beyond  the  limits  of  the  Edin- 
burgh district,  it  comprises  the  well-known  oil  shales  of 
Midlothian  and  the  Burdiehouse  Limestone  which  has 
become  celebrated  for  the  great  abundance  of  ichthyo- 
lites  and  crustaceans  embedded  in  it.  The  occurrence 
of  such  a  thick  mass  of  limestone  in  the  series,  however, 
is  quite  exceptional,  as  the  calcareous  bands  are  itsually 
found  in  seams  only  a  few  inches  thick.  It  was 
formerly  supposed  that  the  sandstones  of  Granton  and 
Craigleith  occupied  a  higher  horizon  than  the  Wardie 
shales,  but  it  is  evident  from  recent  investigations 
that  they  underlie  the  shales.  On  the  shore,  at  Granton, 
the  standstones  form  an  arch  the  axis  of  which  runs 
N  and  S.  On  the  E  side  of  the  anticline  they  dip  to 
the  E,  and  are  succeeded  by  thin  bedded  sandstones  and 
shales  which  eventually  pass  underneath  the  Wardie 
shales.  The  latter  are  repeated  by  gentle  undulations 
eastwards  as  far  as  Trinity.  The  sandstones  at  Craig- 
leith are  evidently  the  inland  prolongations  of  those  on 
the  shore,  as  the  strike  of  the  beds  is  nearly  N"  and  S. 
In  this  quarry  the  beds  dip  lioth  to  the  E  and  SW 
as  if  curving  round  an  anticlinal  fold.  A  charac- 
teristic feature  of  the  sandstones  at  both  localities  is  the 
presence  of  numerous  remains  of  plants  in  a  fragmen- 
tary form,  one  of  the  most  abundant  being  Spc7iopteris 
affiiiis.  Huge  trunks  of  coniferous  trees  have  also  been 
obtained  from  these  beds.  These  sandstones  make  ex- 
cellent building  material,  and  have  been  largely  quarried 
for  this  purpose  ;  indeed  the  greater  part  of  Edinburgh 
has  been  built  of  this  stone. 

The  Wardie  beds  consist  of  black  and  blue  shales,  in 
which  are  embedded  nodules  of  clay  ironstone.  The 
nodules  have  yielded  fish  remains,  coprolites,  and  plants. 
When  these  beds  are  traced  inland,  they  become  inter- 
calated with  bands  of  sandstone,  but  the  shales  form 
the  essential  feature  of  the  subdivision.  By  means  of 
the  fault  extending  from  Craiglockhart  by  the  Castle  to 
Calton  Hill,  the  members  of  the  Cementstone  Series  are 
brought  into  conjunction  with  successive  beds  of  the 
Red  Sandstone  division.  On  the  NW  slope  of  the 
Calton  Hill  they  are  thrown  against  the  volcanic  series 
(division  2),  while  to  the  NE  of  that  locality  the  effect 
of  the  displacement  is  to  bring  different  members  of  the 
Cementstone  Series  against  each  other.  It  is  evident 
therefore  that  the  fault  is  decreasing  in  amount  towards 
the  NE.  Along  the  W  side  of  ttiis  fault  the  Wardie 
shales  are  generally  inclined  to  the  NW.  In  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  St  Andrew  Square,  however,  they  form  a 
well-marked  anticline,  which  has  already  been  referred 
to  as  the  northern  prolongation  of  the  arch  running 
southwards  to  Blackford  Hill.  In  1865  Mr  G.  C.  Has- 
well  recorded  an  interesting  exposure  on  the  W  side  of 
Hanover  Street,  at  the  corner  of  Rose  Street,  where  the 
strata,  consisting  of  sandstones,  shales,  and  fireclay, 
form  an  anticline  and  syncline  within  a  horizontal  dis- 
tance of  about  12  feet.  They  were  lately  seen  on  the  E 
side  of  Hanover  Street,  in  the  course  of  excavations  at 
Rose  Street,  having  a  north-westerly  dip  at  angles  var}'- 
ing  from  40  to  50  degrees.  M'Laren  noted  tlie  occur- 
rence of  similar  beds  at  the  New  Club  in  Princes  Street. 
Upwards  of  100  feet  of  dark  shales  dip  to  the  NW  at 
the  West  Church  Manse.  They  crop  out  in  the  cut- 
tings of  the  Caledonian  and  new  Suburban  railways, 
and  they  are  also  exposed  at  the  Dean  near  the  Dean 
Bridge.  At  these  localities  they  are  inclined  to  the 
NW,  and  a  similar  dip  continues  to  near  Coltbridge, 
which  forms  the  centre  of  a  synclinal  fold.  From  this 
point  westwards  we  have  a  gradually  descending  series 
towards  the  Corstorphine  Hill  and  the  Craigleith  sand- 
stones. 

Reference  has  already  been  made  to  the  fish  remains 
and  plants  embedded  in  the  ironstone  nodules,  but 
there  are  certain  bands  of  shales  in  this  subdivision, 
which   are  of  special   importance   on  accouut  of  the 


EDINBURGH 

marine  fauna  which  they  have  yielded.  They  occur  at 
Granton,  Craigleith,  the  Dean  Bridge,  Drumsheugh, 
and  Woodhall,  and  at  all  these  localities  there  is  a 
marked  identity  in  the  species  of  fossils.  These  hori- 
zons have  been  explored  by  Messrs  Henderson  and 
Bonnie,  who  have  collected  a  great  variety  of  marine 
forms  from  them,  upwards  of  17  well-defined  species 
having  been  disinterred  from  the  Woodhall  shales  alone. 
Some  of  the  species  are  typical  of  the  Carboniferous 
Limestone,  which  overlies  the  Cementstone  Series. 
The  following  fossils  are  characteristic  of  these  beds  : 
Spirorbis  carboTuirixis,  Liiujula  squamiformv),  L. 
mytiloidcs,  Avicula  Hendersoni,  Myalina  crassa,  Bel- 
Icrophon  dceussatus,  Murchisonia  striatula,  Orthoceras 
attcnuoixim,  0.  qjlindraceum.  This  assemblage  of  fossils 
is  widely  different  from  that  met  with  in  the  Burdie- 
house Limestone,  which  is  essentially  a  fresh  or  brack- 
ish water  deposit.  Indeed,  a  careful  examination  of 
the  fossils  derived  from  the  various  members  of  the 
Cementstone  Series  seems  to  prove  that  during  their 
deposition  there  must  have  been  an  alternation  of  estu- 
arine  and  marine  conditions. 

The  interbedded  volcanic  rocks  at  Craiglockhart  are 
probably  on  the  same  horizon  as  those  on  Arthur's  Seat 
and  Calton.  At  the  base  there  is  a  considerable  de- 
velopment of  felspathic  tuff  which  is  overlaid  by 
basaltic  lava.  This  latter  rock,  which  is  a  coarse 
variety  of  basalt,  presents  features  of  great  beauty  when 
examined  microscopically,  showing  prisms  of  labrado- 
rite  with  minute  grains  of  augite.  This  mineral  also 
occurs  in  distinct  crystals,  and  the  olivine,  which  is 
apparent  even  to  the  naked  eye,  is  also  well  represented. 
These  volcanic  rocks  are  inclined  to  the  NW,  and  are 
succeeded  by  sandstones  and  shales,  while,  on  the  N 
side,  they  are  abruptly  cut  off  by  a  fault. 

The  history  of  the  intrusive  igneous  rocks  of  the 
Edinburgh  district  and  the  later  volcanic  rocks  of 
Arthur's  Seat  is  full  of  interest.  Reference  has  already 
been  made  to  the  three  great  intrusive  sheets  of  the 
Heriot  Mount,  Salisbury  Crags,  and  the  Dasses  which 
belong  to  the  period  of  volcanic  activity  towards  the 
close  of  the  deposition  of  the  red  sandstones.  These 
rocks,  which  consist  of  coarsely  crystalline  dolerites, 
were  not  erupted  at  the  surface  like  the  contemporaneous 
lavas  and  tuffs  of  the  Long  Row,  the  Dry  Dam,  and 
Whinny  Hill.  Their  intrusive  character  is  clearly 
proved  by  their  relations  to  the  overlying  and  under- 
lying strata.  The  .sandstones  and  shales  both  above 
and  below  these  sheets  have  been  altered  by  contact 
with  them,  and  the  two  lower  ones  gradually  steal  across 
the  edges  of  the  intervening  strata  till  they  unite  to 
form  the  great  columnar  mass  of  Samson's  Ribs. 

But  these  igneous  masses  are  of  older  date  than  those 
which  cap  the  hill.  There  can  be  little  doubt  that  the 
former  belong  to  the  period  of  volcanic  activity  at  the 
close  of  the  Red  Sandstone  Series.  We  have  already 
pointed  out  that  the  older  volcanic  rocks  of  Arthur's 
Seat  lie  on  the  E  side  of  the  anticlinal  axis,  on  which 
the  S  part  of  Edinburgh  stands,  and  that  they  are  regu- 
larly succeeded  by  the  higher  divisions  of  the  Carboni- 
ferous system.  Long  before  the  eruption  of  the  later 
volcanic  materials,  the  older  rocks  had  been  tilted  to 
the  E,  and  had  been  subjected  to  prolonged  denudation. 
A  vast  thickness  of  material  had  been  removed.  The 
softer  sedimentary  strata  had  been  worn  into  hollows, 
and  the  harder  igneous  rocks  of  Salisbury  Crags,  the 
Dasses,  and  the  Long  Row  projected  as  ridges  before 
the  renewal  of  volcanic  activity.  The  later  igneous 
rocks  consist  of  coarse  agglomerate  and  basalt,  the  for- 
mer lieing  ejected  before  the  basalt.  The  coarse  ash  is 
ailmirably  displayed  in  the  Queen's  Drive,  where  the 
blocks  are  extremely  large,  from  an  examination  of 
which  it  is  evident  that  they  have  been  derived  from 
the  older  rocks  of  the  hill.  On  the  top  of  Artliur's  Seat 
there  is  a  mass  of  basalt,  filling  the  vent  from  which 
these  coarse  agglomerates  were  discharged.  Tiie  basalt 
of  the  lion's  haunch  is  part  of  a  lava  flow  wiiich  rests 
on  the  agglomerate,  and  sends  down  a  branching  vein 
into  it.     No  precise  age  can  be  assigned  to  these  later 

471 


EDINBURGH 

ejections.  All  that  can  be  safely  averred  is,  that  they 
are  more  recent  than  the  Lower  Carboniferous  period. 

The  rock  on  which  the  Castle  stands  consists  of  a 
compact  basalt  with  a  marked  columnar  structure.  It 
is  an  oval-shaped  mass,  which,  save  on  the  E  side,  is 
surrounded  by  beds  of  division  3,  and  on  account  of 
its  greater  hardness  has  more  successfully  resisted  denu- 
dation. It  closely  resembles  many  of  the  volcanic 
necks  which  are  so  common  among  the  Scotch  Carboni- 
ferous rocks.  They  represent  the  vents  from  which  the 
lavas  and  ashes  were  discharged,  and  are  now  filled 
with  tutf  or  crystalline  rocks.  The  neck  on  which  the 
Castle  stands  is  abruptly  truncated  on  the  E  side  by  the 
great  fault  which  has  been  frequently  referred  to,  and 
by  means  of  this  dislocation  it  must  have  been  thrown 
down  from  a  much  higher  level. 

At  various  localities  throughout  Edinburgh  veins  and 
dykes  of  basalt  and  dolerite  occur.  Some  of  these  have 
an  E  and  W  trend,  and  are  probably  of  Tertiary  age. 
One  of  these  is  exposed  in  the  path  leading  up  to  the 
Calton  Hill,  at  the  back  of  Greenside  church,  where  it 
is  intruded  among  the  volcanic  rocks  of  the  hill.  They 
are  also  to  be  seen  in  the  Water  of  Leith  near  the  Dean 
Bridge,  and  in  the  cutting  of  the  Caledonian  railway 
near  Coltbridge.  Several  veins  have  been  traced  in  the 
old  part  of  the  to\\Ti :  one  from  the  foot  of  St  Mary 
Street  to  St  Patrick  Square,  and  another  from  the 
eastern  part  of  the  Cowgate  to  the  University. 

The  effects  of  glaciation  are  still  fresh  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Edinburgh.  The  rounded  contour  of  the 
ground  and  the  striated  surfaces  alike  point  to  the 
operation  of  this  agent.  On  the  Corstorphine  Hill 
several  striated  surfaces  occur  which  were  first  observed 
by  Sir  James  Hall,  the  direction  of  the  markings  being 
a  few  degi'ees  N  of  E.  At  one  point  on  the  N  side  of 
the  Castle,  nearly  horizontal  strife  were  observed  on  a 
vertical  face  of  rock  pointing  in  a  similar  direction.  On 
the  Calton  Hill  there  are  several  examples.  Till  recently 
a  striated  surface  was  exposed  at  the  side  of  the  road 
leading  to  the  Nelson  Monument.  Fresh  instances  have 
been  met  with  lately  at  the  side  of  the  Low  Calton, 
owing  to  the  removal  of  the  boulder  clay,  the  general 
trend  being  ENE.  In  the  Queen's  Park  they  occur  on 
the  top  of  the  Salisbury  Crags,  and  the  splendid  rochc 
mouto7inee  in  the  Queen's  Drive,  above  Samson's  Ribs, 
is  now  well  known.  A  remarkable  example  of  an  over- 
hanging cliff  with  a  striated  surface  is  to  be  seen  on  the 
road  leading  to  Duddingston,  in  what  is  locally  desig- 
nated '  the  Windy  Gowl ' — a  phenomenon  which  could 
only  have  been  produced  by  glacier  ice.  In  the  course 
of  this  year  well-preserved  striae  were  observed  by  Mr 
B.  N.  Peach  within  100  feet  of  the  top  of  Arthur's 
Seat,  at  the  top  of  the  gully,  known  by  the  name  of 
'the  Gutted  Haddy.'  Here  the  ice-markings  ascend 
the  slo])e  at  an  angle  of  20°  on  a  nearly  vertical  face  of 
rock.  The  direction  is  E  18°  N,  and  from  the  appear- 
ances presented  by  the  striated  surfaces  it  is  evident 
that  they  were  produced  by  ice  moving  towards  the 
ENE.  At  Craigmillar  the  strioe  run  approximately  E 
and  W;  and  again,  on  the  Braid  Hills,  where  they  are 
very  plentiful,  the  trend  is  to  the  S  of  E.  '  Striated 
pavements'  in  the  boulder  clay  have  been  observed 
both  by  Hugh  Miller  and  Professor  A.  Geikie,  indi- 
cating an  ice  movement  in  an  ENE  direction.  All 
these  instances  prove  that  Edinburgh  was  glaciated  by 
ice  moving  towards  the  E,  while  here  and  tliere  slight 
local  deflections  were  produced  by  the  irregular  contour 
of  the  ground. 

The  greatest  accumulation  of  boulder  clay  is  that 
which  covers  Princes  Street.  In  the  low-lying  parts  of 
the  town  it  is  buried  beneath  the  alluvial  deposits  of 
ancient  lochs  or  is  overlapped  by  the  accumulations  of 
the  raised  beaches.  Along  the  coast-line  it  crops  out 
from  underneath  these  marine  deposits.  A  few  years 
ago  a  fine  exposure  of  boulder  clay  was  made  in  the 
course  of  the  excavations  for  the  AllDert  Dock  at  Leith. 
It  consisted  of  a  tough  dark  clay  charged  with  blocks 
of  various  sizes  from  widely  separated  localities.  Along 
with  the  blocks  of  local  origin  there  were  stones  whiclj 
472 


EDINBURGH 

had  come  from  Corstorphine  Hill,  the  Iklons  Hill, 
Campsie  Fells,  and  the  Grampians.  Similar  evidence 
is  obtained  from  the  patches  of  boulder  clay  round 
Arthur's  Seat.  On  the  Queen's  Drive,  where  the  second 
escarpment  begins  leading  down  to  Duddingston,  there 
is  a  considerable  thickness  of  this  deposit  overlying  the 
Carboniferous  red  marls.  It  is  fawn-coloured,  and 
consists  mainly  of  sandstone  blocks  associated  with 
boulders  of  carboniferous  limestone,  fragments  of  coal, 
black  shale,  diabase,  iwrphyrites,  quartz  rock  pebbles 
from  the  neighbourhood  of  Callander,  and  schists  from 
the  Grampians.  The  same  commingling  of  foreign  and 
local  rocks  is  observable  in  the  small  patch,  in  the 
gully,  named  '  the  Gutted  Haddy,'  at  a  height  of  over 
700  feet.  This  locality  is  considerably  above  the  level 
of  the  sources  from  which  some  of  the  blocks  have  been 
derived,  so  that  they  could  not  have  been  transported 
by  the  agency  of  floating  ice. 

The  deposits  of  the  100  feet  beach  lap  round  the  hills 
on  which  Edinburgh  stands,  their  inland  margin  never 
rising  much  above  this  level.  They  consist  of  a  great 
series  of  stratified  sands  and  clays  which  once  formed 
an  almost  continuous  plain,  but  which  has  been  trenched 
and  worn  into  hollows  by  prolonged  denudation.  Where 
a  section  can  be  obtained  it  is  evident  that  the  mounds 
on  which  the  marine  deposits  rest  have  been  carved  out 
of  the  solid  rock.  Though  the  finely  stratified  sands 
predominate  in  these  beds,  yet  in  places  they  wholly 
consist  of  finely  laminated  clay  free  from  stones.  Oc- 
casionally there  are  layers  of  small  stones  as  if  they 
had  been  dropped  into  the  accumulating  sediment  by 
floating  ice.  These  are  mostly  local,  but  a  few  have 
been  transported  from  the  Grampians.  Some  chalk 
stones  and  chalk  flints  also  occur  in  the  clays,  the 
former  resembling  the  Danish  chalk  in  the  island  of 
Faxoe.  One  of  the  best  sections  for  examining  this 
deposit  is  the  clay  pit  at  Portobello.  In  this  section 
there  are  certain  bands  highly  crumpled,  while  the  beds 
above  and  below  are  undisturbed.  Last  year  an  excel- 
lent exposure  was  seen  in  Warriston  Park,  nearly  oppo- 
site the  gate  leading  into  the  Botanic  Garden,  where 
several  laj'ers  of  these  crumpled  beds  occurred,  the  inter- 
vening layers  of  sand  being  free  from  any  contortion. 
The  folds  were  mostly  inverted,  and  inclined  to  the 
SW.  These  phenomena  may  be  accounted  for  by  sup- 
posing that,  during  the  deposition  of  these  beds,  they 
were  occasionally  subjected  to  the  movement  of  pack 
ice  driven  on  to  the  banks  of  sand  and  mud  during  low 
tide  by  the  NE  winds  blowing  up  the  Firth.  The 
partly  consolidated  clays  were  pushed  laterally  by  the 
ice  as  it  was  driven  shorewards.  As  the  ice  floated  or 
melted  away,  the  crumpled  clays  were  again  overlaid 
by  ordinary  sediment.  The  crumpling  might  recur  at 
intervals  with  severe  weather,  a  low  tide,  and  NE 
winds.  This  supposition  is  strengthened  by  an  ex- 
amination of  the  contents  of  the  beds.  The  shells  are 
of  an  arctic  type,  and  are  not  abundant ;  while  the 
Foraminifera  and  Entomostraca  are  also  arctic.  The 
claj's  consist  of  the  finest  sediment — the  flour  of  the 
rocks,  in  fact,  and  are  almost  destitute  of  organic 
matter.  They  point  to  a  time  when  the  rivers  flowing 
into  the  Forth  were  turbid  with  glacial  mud,  when 
the  land  surface  was  nearly  devoid  of  vegetation,  and 
when  the  estuary  was  not  suitable  for  the  growth  of 
alg<B. 

The  50  feet  beach  has  been  carved  out  of  the  deposits 
of  the  older  terrace,  the  underlying  boulder  clay,  and  the 
solid  rock.  It  foinis  a  narrow  strip  along  the  coast, 
the  broadest  part  occurring  at  the  Leith  Links.  This 
ancient  beach  is  bounded  by  a  low  inland  cliff  which  is 
still  tolerably  steep  where  it  consists  of  solid  rock,  but 
in  those  places  where  it  is  carved  out  of  boulder  clay,  or 
the  100  feet  terrace,  it  is  merely  a  sloi)ing  bank.  The 
strata  consist  of  sand  and  gravel  with  occasional  shells. 
Hugh  Miller  drew  attention  to  some  interesting  facts 
connected  with  the  old  beach  near  Fillysido  Bank 
between  Leith  and  Portobello.  The  stones  found  on  the 
surface  are  encrusted  by  Scrpuloc  and  i>errorated  by 
Haxicava,   while  the  under   valves  of  oysters   are  fre- 


EDINBURGH 

fluently  attached  to  the  boulders.  Equally  interesting 
IS  the  occurrence  of  Mija  truncata,  which  has  been 
preserved  with  the  siphuncular  end  uppermost  in  the 
act  of  burrowing  in  the  boulder  clay  which  fonns  the 
floor  of  the  beach  at  this  point.  In  all  likelihood  this 
part  of  the  old  sea  bottom  may  have  formed  an  oyster 
scalp.  The  localities  where  these  shells  occm-  are  from 
4  to  8  feet  above  the  highest  stream  tides,  and  from  30 
to  38  feet  above  the  position  where  they  are  now  found 
li\'ing.  The  elevation  of  the  land  to  its  present  level 
seems  to  have  taken  place  since  its  occupation  by 
man,  for  in  the  continuation  of  this  beach  farther 
up  the  Firth  numerous  skeletons  of  whales  have 
been  found  along  with  the  rude  implements  which 
were  used  by  our  ancestors.  A  few  years  ago,  a  whale 
was  discovered  near  Gargunnock,  the  brain  of  which,  in 
all  probability,  had  been  extracted  for  food,  the  skull 
having  been  broken  open  at  the  thinnest  part.  Hard 
by  was  found  the  implement  which  had  evidently  been 
used  for  this  pui'pose.  A  comparison  of  the  marks  on  the 
face  of  the  implement  with  those  on  the  skull  showed 
that  they  perfectly  agreed.  Kitchen  middens  are  found 
at  various  places  along  the  base  of  the  cliff  forming  the 
inner  margin  of  this  terrace.  The  bed  of  oyster  shells 
referred  to  by  M'Laren  as  occurring  at  Seafield  is  in  all 
probabilit}'  of  this  nature.  It  is  rather  a  remarkable 
fact  that  the  brick  clays  belonging  to  this  beach  have  a 
fetid  odour  o'W'ing  to  the  amount  of  animal  and  vegetable 
matter  they  contain.  At  the  head  of  the  Leith  Links 
there  are  several  dunes  of  blown  sand  which  date  back 
to  the  time  when  the  sea  rolled  inwards  on  this  beach. 

In  the  course  of  the  excavation  of  its  present  channel, 
the  Water  of  Leith  has  formed  several  alluvial  terraces 
which  belong  to  post-glacial  and  recent  times,  the  high- 
est, of  coiu'se,  being  the  oldest.  The  successive  ter- 
races are  best  developed  where  the  river  has  cut  through 
the  deposits  of  the  100  feet  sea  beach.  The  lower  por- 
tion of  the  "Warriston  Cemetery  occupies  one  of  these 
higher  terraces.  In  connection  with  this  subject  it  is 
interesting  to  note  the  occurrence  of  a  bmied  river 
channel  near  Coltbridge,  which  was  proved  by  a  series 
of  bores  put  down  by  ilr  Jeffrey.  One  bore,  which  was 
sunk  to  the  S  of  the  brewery,  passed  through  60  feet 
of  superficial  deposits  before  reaching  the  sandstones 
and  shales.  In  a  second  bore,  a  short  distance  to  the  N, 
72  feet  of  drift  were  pierced  when  a  dyke  of  igneous  rock 
was  reached.  A  few  yards  further  X  a  third  bore  was 
put  do\\'n  through  200  feet  of  superficial  deposits  before 
reaching  the  solid  rock.  As  the  surface  of  the  gi'ound 
at  that  locality  is  only  about  150  feet  above  the  sea,  it 
is  evident  that  the  bottom  of  this  old  channel  must  be 
considerably  below  the  present  datum-line.  This  is 
evidently  one  of  those  buried  river-channels,  of  which 
there  are  several  examples  on  the  E  coast  of  Scotland 
and  England,  pointing  to  a  considerable  elevation  of 
the  land,  probably  in  pre-glacial  times. 

Edinburgh  formerly  possessed  several  sheets  of  water 
which  have  now  disappeared.  The  hollow  along  which 
the  Korth  British  liailway  passes  was  occupied  by  a 
chain  of  lochs.  The  Nor'  Loch,  to  the  N  of  the 
Castle,  was  celebrated  as  the  place  where  the  witches 
passed  through  their  ordeal.  The  Grassmarket  and  the 
Cowgate  overlie  the  alluvium  of  an  ancient  loch,  the 
traces  of  which  are  now  almost  obliterated.  In  the 
Queen's  Park,  the  place  known  as  the  King's  Mire  was 
covered  by  a  sheet  of  water.  The  Meadows  occupy  the 
site  of  the  Borough  Loch,  the  shell  marl  being  occa- 
sionally exposed  in  the  drains  there,  varying  in  thick- 
ness from  a  few  inches  to  6  feet.  Several  species  of 
Limiicca,  Planorhis,  Cijdas,  and  Valvata  have  been 
obtained  from  this  deposit,  along  with  a  few  valves  of 
Entomostraca.  The  skull  and  horns  of  the  Cervus 
Ele2)has  have  also  been  disinterred  from  the  alluvial 
deposits  of  the  Meadows.  This  interesting  relic  is  now 
preserved  in  the  Museum  of  the  Antiquarian  Society  in 
Edinburgh.  A  large  sheet  of  water  formerly  extended 
from  Corstorphine  to  Gorgie  and  Coltbridge,  which  has 
been  drained  by  the  gorge  of  the  "Water  of  Leith.  An 
interesting  notice  occuis  in  the  Scotsman  of  13  April 


EDINBURGH 

1833,  with  reference  to  the  occurrence  of  a  considerable 
depth  of  moss  in  the  old  town.  In  the  course  of  the 
excavations  of  the  new  court  buildings  in  Parliament 
Square,  a  remnant  of  the  City  Wall,  erected  in  1450, 
was  laid  bare  ;  and  in  the  mossy  soil  below  it,  about  3 
feet  under  the  foundation,  a  number  of  entire  skeletons 
were  found,  showing  that  the  ground  had  been  used  for 
burial  before  the  wall  was  built.  In  some  places  the 
moss  was  15  feet  deep. 

Though  the  physical  features  of  Edinburgh  were 
mainly  determined  in  pre-glacial  times,  there  can  be 
little  doubt  that  they  were  largely  modified  during  the 
glacial  period.  Those  remarkable  features  of  '  crag  and 
tail,'  which  are  well  displayed  on  the  Castle  rock,  tlie 
Calton  Hill,  Salisbury  Crags,  and  Arthur's  Seat,  were 
partly  developed  during  the  great  extension  of  the  ice. 
In  the  foregoing  examples  the  projecting  crags  or  bosses 
of  rock  face  the  "\V,  which  is  the  direction  from  which 
the  ice  came  ;  while  the  ridge  or  '  tail '  on  the  lee  side 
slopes  gently  towards  the  E.  As  the  ice  impinged  on 
these  projecting  masses,  the  lower  portion  of  the  sheet 
would  be  deflected  and  compelled  to  move  round  the 
sides,  while  the  higher  portion  would  overflow  the  es- 
carpments. One  can  readily  understand  that  the  erosion 
would  necessarily  be  greatest  at  the  base  and  round  the 
sides  of  the  crags.  The  Xor'  Loch  and  the  Grassmarket 
Loch  were  probably  rock  basins  due  to  this  cause.  The 
hollow  at  the  ileadows  may  likewise  be  of  glacial  origin. 
At  that  locality  the  strike  of  the  beds  nearly  coincides 
with  the  direction  of  the  ice-flow  ;  and  as  the  red  sand- 
stones crop  out  to  the  S  in  Warreuder  Park,  it  is  pro- 
bable that  they  are  overlaid  by  softer  strata  occupying 
the  site  of  the  Meadows,  which  would  be  more  readily 
excavated  by  the  ice.  And  so  also  the  hollow  at  Mor- 
ningside  must  have  been  deepened  by  the  pressure  of 
the  ice  escaping  round  the  N  end  of  Blackford  Hill. 
Indeed  it  is  rather  remarkable  that  the  hollows  and 
ancient  lochs  throughout  Edinburgh  are  found  in  those 
places  where  they  ought  theoretically  to  occur,  on  the 
supposition  that  the  district  was  glaciated  by  an  ice 
sheet  moving  in  an  EXE  direction. 

Botany. — The  flora  within  a  radius  of  twenty-five 
miles  around  the  city  of  Edinburgh  is  most  varied  and 
extensive.  From  the  nature  of  the  soil,  elevation,  and 
exposure,  this  might  be  expected.  There  are  the  shores 
of  the  Firth  of  Forth  and  many  fresh-water  rivers — 
there  are  extensive  ranges  of  hills — there  are  plains, 
woods,  valleys,  moors,  and  cultivated  lands,  all  of 
which  have  their  peculiar  native  vegetable  productions. 
There  has  been  recently  enumerated  410  genera,  1012 
species,  and  80  varieties  of  flowering  plants.  This 
number,  however,  embraces  several  plants  not  indi- 
genous, but  which  have  escaped  from  cultivation,  and 
have  become  naturalised  in  diflerent  localities.  Of 
Ferns  and  their  allies  there  are  18  genera  and  43  species 
and  varieties.  These  include  the  forked  sideenwort, 
the  alternate  spleenwort,  tlie  filmy  fern,  the  sea  spleen- 
wort,  the  adder's  tongue,  the  moonwort  fern,  etc. 
There  are  520  species  and  varieties  of  mosses,  liver- 
worts, lichens,  and  charas.  The  Firth  of  Forth  is  rich 
in  seaweeds  (Algce),  but  their  numbers  have  not  recently 
been  calculated.  The  forms  of  fungi,  desmids,  and  di- 
atoms are  innumerable.  Woodl'orde  first  published 
a  catalogue  of  plants  found  around  Edinburgh  ;  and 
about  the  same  time  Dr  Grcville  issued  his  Flora 
Edincnsis,  containing  descriptions  of  the  flowering 
and  flowerless  plants  met  with  within  ten  miles  of  the 
city.  This  was  an  excellent  book,  and  is  still  (1882)  a 
work  of  reference.  The  last  publication  on  the  botany 
was  that  of  Balfour  and  Sadler  in  1571,  entitled  The 
Flora  of  Edinlunjh,  intended  for  the  use  of  students 
attending  the  Botanical  Classes.  In  1761,  when  Dr 
John  Hope  was  appointed  professor  of  botany,  he 
encouraged  his  pupils  to  study  and  collect  the  wild 
plants  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Edinburgli,  and  offered 
a  medal  annually  for  the  best  collection  ol'  dried  plants. 
The  medal  was  gained  on  one  occasion  by  Sir  James 
Edward  Smith.  Tlie  practice  of  giving  a  medal  has 
been  continued  by  all  the  succeeding  professors. 

473 


EDINBURGH 

Local  Advantages. — The  situaHon  of  Edinburgli  is 
scarcely  less  subservient  to  advantage  than  its  scenery 
is  replete  with  beauty.  The  sloping  inclination  of  tlie 
ground  on  all  hands,  with  its  close  neighbourhood  to 
the  sea,  is  favourable  to  drainage,  and  affords  facilities 
for  cleanliness.  The  elevation'  of  the  hills,  with  the 
spacious  natural  funnels  that  intervene,  is  provocative 
of  a  constant  stir  in  the  air,  and  contributes  to  a  healthy 
ventilation.  The  comparative  vicinity  of  coal  fields  and 
of  seaports,  with  the  easy  access  there  is  to  these,  offers 
ready  facilities  for  manufacture  and  commerce,  such  as 
might  well  tempt  capitalists  to  essay  here  enterprises 
which  have  long  been  successfully  prosecuted  in  towns 
far  less  favourably  situated,  such  as  Dunfermline, 
Hawick,  and  even  Manchester,  Leeds,  and  Sheffield, 
not  to  say  Birmingham,  and  others  which  might  be 
mentioned.  As  it  is,  the  resources  it  possesses  for 
a  generous  education,  its  varied  natural  stores,  its 
splendid  scenery,  its  historical  associations,  native  to 
itself  and  as  the  capital  of  the  country,  as  well  as  its 
institutions,  expressly  established,  thoroughly  equipped, 
and  in  active  operation  for  this  end,  are  such  as  to 
enable  Edinburgh  to  compete  with  any  other  city  as  a 
seat  of  learning.  If  we  add  to  these  its  tranquil  air  and 
its  social  atmosphere,  as  well  as  its  museums,  libraries, 
and  schools  of  arts,  there  are  few  places  better  fitted  for 
the  cultivation  of  those  studies  which  are  best  prose- 
cuted awaj"-  from  the  hum  of  busy  labour,  and  the  hurry 
and  bustle  of  merely  commercial  life.  '  Kesidence  in  Edin- 
burgh,' remarks  Alexander  Smith,  'is  an  education  in 
itself.  Of  all  British  cities — Weimar-like  in  its  intel- 
lectual and  assthetic  leanings,  Florence-like  in  its  free- 
dom from  the  stains  of  trade,  and  more  than  Florence- 
like in  its  beauty — it  is  the  one  best  suited  for  the  con- 
duct of  a  lettered  life.  The  city,  as  an  entity,  does  not 
stimulate  like  London ;  the  present  moment  is  not  nearly 
so  intense  ;  life  does  not  roar  and  chafe — it  murmurs 
only  ;  and  this  interest  of  the  hour,  mingled  with  some- 
thing of  the  quietude  of  distance  and  the  past — which 
is  the  spiritual  atmosphere  of  the  cit}' — is  the  most 
favourable  of  all  conditions  for  intellectual  work  or  in- 
tellectual enjoyment.'  'What  the  tour  of  Europe  was 
necessary  to  see  elsewhere,' says  Sir  David  Wilkie,  'I 
now  find  congregated  in  this  one  city.  Here  are  alike 
the  beauties  of  Prague  and  of  Salzburg ;  here  are  the 
romantic  sites  of  Orvietto  and  Tivoli ;  and  here  is  all 
the  magnificence  of  the  admired  bays  of  Genoa  and 
Naples  ;  here,  indeed,  to  the  poet's  fancy,  may  be  found 
realised  the  Roman  Capitol  and  the  Grecian  Acropolis. ' 
And,  says  Mr  Hallam  : — 

'  Even  thus,  methinks,  a  city  reared  should  bo, 

Yea,  an  imperial  citj',  that  mii^lit  hold 
Five  times  a  hundred  noble  towns  in  fee, 

And  either  with  their  might  of  Babel  old 
Or  the  rich  Roman  pomp  of  Empery, 

Might  stand  compare,  highest  in  arts  enrolled, 
Highest  in  arms,  brave  tenement  for  the  free, 

Who  never  crouch  to  thrones,  or  sin  for  gold. 
Thus  should  her  towers  be  raised,  with  vicinage 

Of  clear  bold  hills,  that  curve  her  very  streets, 

As  if  to  vindicate  'mid  choicest  seats 
Of  art,  abiding  Nature's  majesty, — 

And  the  broad  sea  beyond,  in  calm  or  rage, 

Chainless  alike,  and  teaching  liberty.' 

The  walks  and  shrubberies  and  public  gardens,  also, 
are  rich  in  objects  of  natural  interest.  Robinias,  lirio- 
dendrons,  auracarias,  and  some  other  rare  ligneous  plants 
which  are  as  familiar  here  as  oaks  and  elms  are  elsewhere, 
bespeak  the  regard  of  the  curious  in  the  matter  of  trees ; 
while  rare  flowering  plants  and  shrubs,  continually  under 
the  eye,  render  it  in  a  measure  familiar  with  the  pro- 
ductions of  foreign  climes. 

ClimoJe. — The  climate  of  Edinburgh  is  much  the  same 
as  that  all  over  the  E  coast  of  Scotland,  but  rather  colder 
than  in  the  low-lying  environs.  Some  spots  in  the  cit}', 
as  compared  with  others — for  example,  Holyrood  as 
compared  with  the  Castle,  and  Newington  as  compared 
wth  Broughton — are  sheltered  and  warm.  The  Astro- 
nomer Royal  states  that  'the  average  mean  annual 
temperature  about  the  observatory  on  the  Calton  Hill 
is  approximately  46  '0  Fahr.  ;  the  annual  rainfall,  24  "0 
474 


EDINBURGH 

inches  yearly.  The  strength  and  quantity  of  the  wind 
on  and  about  the  site  are  excessive,  almost  all  through 
the  year,  and  whatever  quarter  the  winds  blows  from.' 
Easterly  winds  prevail  in  April  and  May,  sometimes 
also  in  March;  and  are  usually  cold  and  dry,  often 
very  chilling,  and  occasionally  accompanied  by  in- 
jurious fogs  called  hnars.  Westerly  and  south-westerly 
winds  prevail  in  all  tlio  other  months,  and  are  usually 
genial,  but  often  highly  charged  with  moisture.  In 
one  year,  which  ju'oliably  was  not  far  from  being  an 
average  one,  northerly  winds  blew  10  days,  north- 
easterly winds  18  days,  easterly  winds  101|  days, 
south-easterly  winds  14  days,  southerly  winds  42  days, 
south-westerly  winds  30i  days,  westerly  winds  138 
daj^s,  north-westerly  winds  11  days.  Thunder-storms 
come  almost  invariably  from  the  S,  and  occur  mostly 
in  the  latter  part  of  May  and  throughout  June  ;  but 
in  summer,  when  easterly  or  northerly  winds  prevail, 
thunderstorms  rarely  occur  near  the  city  ;  these  spend 
their  force  considerably  to  the  W  or  to  the  N.  The 
salubrity  of  the  climate,  or  the  aggregate  effect  of  it 
upon  health  and  life,  will  afterwards  be  .shown  in  a 
section  on  the  related  statistics. 

The  City  JValls.  — A  very  ancient  wall  ran  northward 
from  the  foot  of  the  Castle  esplanade  to  the  Nor'  Loch, 
and  another  probably  from  the  E  end  of  the  Nor' 
Loch  to  the  foot  of  Leith  Wynd  ;  and  these,  with  the 
intermediate  reach  of  the  Nor'  Loch,  and  with  a  con- 
tinuous range  of  houses  from  the  foot  of  Leith  Wynd  to 
the  head  of  Canongate  or  foot  of  High  Street,  defended 
the  ancient  city  on  its  northern  or  most  assailable  side. 
A  wall,  entirely  surrounding  the  old  city,  was  con- 
structed in  1450,  under  authority  from  James  II.,  and 
by  means  of  a  tax  on  the  inhabitants.  This  commenced 
with  a  small  fortress  at  the  NE  base  of  the  Castle  rock  ; 
thence  ran  eastward,  along  the  S  side  of  the  Nor'  Loch, 
till  nearly  opposite  the  foot  of  the  Castle  esplanade ; 
it  then  proceeded  in  a  southerly  direction  till  it  gained 
the  summit  of  the  hill,  where  it  was  intersected  by  a 
gateway,  communicating  between  the  Castle  and  the 
town  ;  thence  it  ran  obliquely  down  the  hill,  toward 
the  SE,  till  it  arrived  at  the  first  turn  in  the  descent  of 
the  West  Bow,  and  there  was  intersected  by  a  gateway, 
called  the  Upper  Bow  Port ;  it  thence  proceeded  nearly 
due  eastward,  along  the  face  of  the  ridge  between  High 
Street  and  Cowgate,  till  it  struck  Gray's  Close  or  Mint 
Close  ;  thence  went  north-eastward  till  it  touched  the 
foot  of  High  Street,  a  little  AV  of  the  head  of  Leith 
Wynd,  and  there  was  intersected  by  a  gateway,  com- 
municating between  the  city  and  Canongate  ;  it  thance 
went  down  the  W  side  of  Leith  Wynd  to  the  valley  ; 
and  then  proceeded  westward,  along  the  S  side  of  the 
Nor'  Loch,  to  a  junction  with  its  commencement  at  the 
NE  base  of  the  Castle  rock.  The  ancient  city  was  thus 
confined  to  very  narrow  limits  ;  consisted  simply  of 
Castle  Hill,  Lawnmarket,  and  High  Street,  with  the 
closes  or  alleys  leading  from  them  ;  and  was  dependent 
for  further  extension,  not  on  extending  its  buildings 
along  the  surface,  but  on  raising  them  up  in  the  air. 

An  extension-wall,  chiefly  for  enclosing  suburbs  which 
had  arisen  on  the  S,  was  erected  in  1513.  This  began 
at  the  SE  base  of  the  Castle  rock  ;  thence  extended,  in 
a  south-easterly  direction,  to  the  W  end  of  Grassmarkot, 
where  it  was  intersected  by  a  gateway,  called  the  West 
Port ;  thence  ascended  part  of  the  eminence  flanking 
the  S  side  of  Grassmarket,  turned  eastward,  and  went 
along  the  S  side  of  what  is  now  the  park  of  Ileriot's 
Hospital ;  it  next,  on  approaching  Bristo  Street,  turned 
northward,  and  traversed  the  eastern  part  of  what  is 
now  the  Greyfriars'  Cemetery  ;  it  then  trended  eastward, 
passed  the  lines  of  Bristo  Street  and  Potterrow,  and  was 
intersected  on  these  lines  by  gateways,  called  Bristo 
Port  and  Potterrow  Port ;  next  went  southward  for  a 
few  yards  from  Potterrow  Port,  and  then,  making  an 
abrujit  turn,  proceeded  along  the  S  side  of  the  site  of 
the  ('ollc!,'e  and  the  N  side  of  what  is  now  Drummond 
Street,  till  it  touched  the  Pleasance,  where  it  deflected 
almost  at  a  right  angle  to  the  N  ;  across  Cowgate,  and 
up  the  W  side  of  St  Mary's  Wynd  :  and  was  intersected 


EDINBURGH 

in  tliat  reach,  liy  two  gateways  called  Cowgate  Port  and 
St  Mary  Wynd  Port ;  terminating  at  the  point  of  the 
older  wall  near  the  junction  of  High  Street  and  Canon- 
gate.  Considerable  portions  of  this  wall,  especially  at 
the  N"  side  of  Drunimond  Street  and  at  the  W  side  of 
the  N  end  of  the  Pleasance,  still  exist ;  and  a  portion, 
long  hid  out  of  view  and  forgotten,  was  brought  to  light 
in  1869  by  the  clearing  away  of  houses  in  Argyle  Square 
for  extension  of  the  Indiistrial  Museum. 

The  gateway  in  the  wall  of  1450  at  the  foot  of  High 
Street  stood  about  50  yards  W  of  the  line  of  St  Mary's 
Wynd  and  Leith  "Wynd,  but  it  was  found  to  occupy  a 
position  unfavourable  to  defence.  A  second  gateway, 
in  lieu  of  that,  was  erected  in  1571  by  the  partisans  of 
Queen  ilary,  on  a  line  with  St  Mary's  Wynd  and  Leith 
Wynd,  and  was  so  flanked  as  to  possess  considerable 
military  strength.  A  third  gateway  supplemented  the 
second  in  1606,  and  occupied  the  same  site.  It  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  constructed  on  the  model  of  one  of 
the  ancient  gates  of  Paris,  and  was  by  far  the  most 
important  of  all  the  gates  of  the  city.  It  figured  con- 
spicuously and  picturesquely  in  the  scenery  of  High 
Street ;  and  became  famous  in  history  in  connection 
with  a  bill  (which  was  not  passed),  introduced  into  the 
British  parliament,  in  consequence  of  the  indignation 
excited  by  the  Porteous  mob,  to  have  it  razed  to  the 
gi'ound.  It  extended  quite  across  the  thoroughfare, 
from  house-line  to  house-line,  and  comprised  a  main 
body,  of  house-like  structure,  two  stories  high,  crowned 
with  battlements.  It  was  pierced  with  a  carriage  arch- 
way to  the  height  of  the  lowest  story,  and  with  a  wicket 
for  pedestrians  to  the  S  of  the  carriage  archway ;  had, 
on  its  flanks,  massive  round  towers,  with  sharp  conical 
roofs  ;  and  was  surmounted,  above  the  carriage  arch- 
way, by  a  four-story  square  tower,  bearing  aloft  a  taper- 
ing hexagonal  s]iire.  This  pile  was  a  principal  ornament 
of  the  city,  and,  had  it  been  allowed  to  stand,  would 
have  been  one  of  the  grandest  relics  of  olden  times  ;  but, 
partly  in  consequence  of  an  act  of  parliament  which  pro- 
scribed the  city  walls  of  London,  partly  on  the  pretext  of 
obstructing  the  thoroughfare,  it  was  taken  down  in  1764. 

Small  extensions  of  the  wall  of  1450,  in  Leith  Wynd 
and  at  the  foot  of  Halkerston's  Wynd,  were  erected  in 
1540  and  1560,  that  in  Leith  Wynd  having  a  gateway 
called  Leith  Wynd  Port,  with  a  wicket  at  its  side 
giving  access  to  Trinity  College  Church.  A  small  ex- 
tension of  the  wall  of  1513,  at  the  W  side  of  the  eminence 
flanking  the  S  side  of  Grassmarket,  was  erected  in  1618, 
part  of  which  still  forms  the  western  boundary  of  the 
grounds  of  Heriot's  Hospital.  The  only  extant  vestige 
of  the  wall  of  1450  is  the  fragment  of  a  tower,  on  the 
spot  where  the  wall  commenced  at  the  XE  base  of  the 
Castle  rock,  bearing  the  name  of  Wallace's  tower,  ori- 
ginally or  properly  Well-house  tower  ;  and,  in  1872, 
this  was  proposed  to  be  so  far  rebuilt  or  restored  as  to 
represent  again  the  original  tower  structure.  The  wall 
of  1450  was  constructed  in  consequence  of  panic  after 
the  battle  of  Sark  ;  and  that  of  1513  after  the  battle  of 
Flodden  ;  but  these  do  not  seem  to  have  ever  had  much 
military  strength  ;  and  were  improved,  from  time  to 
time,  at  periods  of  alarm,  by  additions  to  their  thick- 
ness and  their  height,  and  by  the  erection  of  flanking 
towers  and  bulwarks.  Even  in  their  best  condition, 
however,  they  ofl"ered  no  great  resistance  to  the  arts  of 
modern  warfare  ;  and,  in  1745,  when  they  ought  to  have 
prevented  the  entrance  or  entirely  arrested  the  progress 
of  the  Jacobite  army,  the}'  proved  to  be  of  little  or 
no  use.  Thenceforth  they  were  looked  upon  only  as 
obstructions  to  the  thoroughfares ;  and,  during  the 
spirited  period  of  the  civic  modem  extension,  were 
sweepingly  removed.  (See  P.  Xeill's  Notes  relative  to 
the  fortified  Walls  of  Edinburgh.     Edinb.  1829.) 

Extent. — Edinburgh,  owing  to  the  open  spaces  in- 
eluded  \vithin  it,  occupies  a  larger  area  than  from  the 
height  of  the  houses  we  may  be  apt  to  imagine.  From 
Canonmills  Bridge  on  the  X  to  Grange  Road  on  the 
S,  it  measures  geograj)hically  3860  yards  ;  from  Hay- 
market  on  the  W  to  Pilrig  Street  on  the  E,  it  measures 
3660  yards ;  and  these   points   indicate  the  sides   of  a 


EDINBURGH 

rectangle,  the  area  of  which,  with  some  comparatively 
unimportant  exceptions,  is  all  included  in  the  towa.  But 
outside  the  area  of  this  rectangle,  on  each  of  the  four  sides, 
are  wings  more  or  less  extensive,  which,  if  included  in 
the  city's  measurements,  would  add  considerably  to  both 
the  extreme  length  and  breadth.  The  excepted  spaces 
^nthin  the  rectangle  lie  mostly  in  the  very  heart  of  the 
city,  and  either  contain  very  few  edifices  or  are  entirely 
unbuilt  upon.  The  area  of  Princes  Street  Gardens  and 
the  Castle  rock,  which  extends  about  900  yards  from  E  to 
W,  and  between  200  and  270  yards  from  N  to  S,  if  we  ex- 
cept the  structures  of  the  Castle  and  those  on  the  ilound, 
has  scarcely  any  buildings.  The  area  of  Queen  Street 
Gardens  measures  850  yards  by  130  ;  the  aggregate  area 
of  other  public  or  conjoint-proprietary  gardens  measures 
fully  more  ;  and  these  are  entirely  without  edifices. 

The  limits  we  have  given  are  those  of  the  city  re- 
garded as  a  town.  Other  limits,  defining  jurisdictions 
of  various  kinds,  ancient  and  modern,  differ  widely  from 
these  and  from  one  another ;  some  of  them,  too,  are 
either  of  no  interest  or  of  such  intricacy  as  to  be  only 
perplexing  ;  and  only  four  of  them  are  either  important 
enough  to  challenge  notice  or  sufliciently  clear  to  be 
easily  understood.  These  four  define  the  city  in  suc- 
cessive concentric  areas — first,  the  ancient  royalty,  nearly 
identical  with  the  space  formerly  enclosed  by  the  Old 
Town  walls  ;  second,  the  city  proper,  comprising  both 
the  ancient  royalty  and  an  extended  royalty  ;  third,  the 
county  of  the  city,  comprising  all  in  the  former  aiid 
considerable  tracts  beyond ;  fourth,  the  parliamentary 
burgh,  comprehending  the  county  of  the  city  and  a 
large  surrounding  district,  and  forming  altogether  an 
irregiilar  polygon  of  nearly  10  miles  in  circumference, 
with  St  Giles'  Church  in  the  centre.  The  parliamentary 
burgh  is  defined  by  a  line  drawn  from  a  point  on  the 
Leith  and  Queensferry  Road,  400  yards  W  of  the  Inver- 
leith  Road  at  Goldenacre,  straight  to  the  north-western 
corner  of  John  Watson's  Hospital ;  thence  straight  to 
the  second  stone  bridge  on  the  Union  Canal ;  thence 
straight  to  the  Jordan  or  Pow  Burn  at  the  enclosure  of 
the  Momingside  Lunatic  Asylum  ;  thence  down  that 
burn  to  a  point  on  it  150  j-ards  below  the  transit  of  the 
Carlisle  Road  ;  thence  straight  to  the  summit  of  Arthur's 
Seat ;  thence  straight  to  the  influx  of  a  burn  at  the  W 
side  of  Lochend  Loch  ;  thence  straight  to  the  junction  of 
Pilrig  Street  and  Leith  Walk  ;  thence  along  Pilrig  Street 
and  Bonnington  Road  to  the  Leith  and  Queensferry  Road; 
thence  along  that  road  to  the  point  first  described. 

Thoroughfares. — The  plan,  contour,  and  setting  of  the 
city,  vryt\\  the  directions  and  intersections  of  the  streets, 
and  the  positions  of  the  various  places  of  interest  cannot 
be  clearly  defined  in  words  ;  for  an  idea  of  all  this  the 
reader  must  be  referred  to  the  accompanying  map. 
What  we  have  to  say  of  the  prominent  objects  in  the 
city  and  its  neighbourhood,  such  as  the  Castle,  Holv- 
rood,  and  the  principal  buildings  and  institutions,  will 
fall  to  be  said  further  on.  Meanwhile,  we  propose  to 
sketch  the  leading  thoroughfares,  and  as  we  traverse 
them  indicate  such  objects  of  interest  as  attract  atten- 
tion and  will  repay  regard. 

The  line  of  street,  which,  beginning  with  the  head  of 
the  Canongate,  ascends  upwards  along  the  ridge  of  the 
central  hill  to  the  esplanade  in  front  of  the  Castle, 
forms  the  main  portion  of  the  ancient  city,  and  beai-s, 
as  you  go  westwards,  successively  the  names  of  the 
Netherbow,  the  High  Street,  the  Lawnmarket,  and  the 
Castle  Hill.  This  line  of  street  is  intersected  by  two 
main  thoroughfares  running  N  and  S,  as  well  as  by 
other  streets  of  less  extension,  and  an  array  of  lanes  and 
closes  which  are  of  ancient  date,  but  are  gradually  dis- 
appearing to  make  way  for  modern  improvements.  The 
Netherbow,  at  the  lower  extremity,  is  a  comparatively 
short  and  narrow  section  of  the  whole  ;  and  it  was  so 
called  from  a  massive  battlcmented  pile,  surmounted 
by  a  tower  and  steeple,  whicii  stood  here  and  formed,  by 
its  arched  gateway,  for  centuries  the  outlet  from  the 
city  on  the  E.  The  High  Street,  to  which  it  was 
originally  the  approach  from  that  quarter,  is  470 
yards  in' length,    and  very  spacious,  and   expands  to- 

475 


EDINBURGH 

wards  its  upper  extremity  into  an  area  in  front  of 
the  Parliament  House  occupied  by  St  Giles'  Till  the 
latter  part  of  last  century  it  had  no  lateral  openings 
except  by  the  vrjTids  or  closes  referred  to,  and  presented 
till  that  time  the  appearance  of  a  long,  wide,  compact 
street  of  high-piled  houses,  the  architecture  of  which 
belonged  to  several  successive  epochs,  and  exhibited  ele- 
ments that  had  an  imposing  and  picturesque  effect.  A 
few  of  the  older  houses  still  preserved  enable  us  to  con- 
ceive somewhat  of  the  ancient  aspect  of  the  street,  and 
how  it  must  have  looked  when  it  was  the  scene  in  the 
olden  time  of  events  affecting  not  only  the  city  but  the 
whole  country  from  end  to  end.  The  Lawnmarket, 
which  is  about  230  yards  in  length,  and  possesses 
similar  features  of  both  architectiiral  and  historic  in- 
terest, derived  its  name  from  the  stalls  and  booths 
which  used  to  be  erected  here,  especially  on  market- 
days,  for  the  sale  of  'linen.'  It  communicated  with 
the  High  Street,  so  late  as  1817,  bj'  means  of  a  lane 
on  the  S,  for  foot-passengers,  and  a  narrow  carriage-way 
on  the  K,  of  the  Luckenbooths,  which  extended  along 
the  street  to  the  S  of  St  Giles',  and  it  was  blocked  at  its 
W  end  till  1S22  by  a  public  weigh-house.  Till  the  open- 
ing of  Bank  Street  on  the  N  in  1798,  it  had  no  lateral 
outlets  except  the  closes  to  right  and  left,  and  a  quaint 
old  street,  called  the  West  Bow,  which  descended  west- 
ward in  steep  corkscrew  fashion  at  its  SW  corner  into 
the  Grassmarket  under  the  S  of  the  Castle.  The  Castle 
Hill  extends  beyond  the  Lawnmarket  as  far  as  the  es- 
planade of  the  Castle  ;  it  is  about  150  j'ards  long,  and  is 
more  contracted  in  width.  It  was  once  a  patrician 
quarter  of  the  city,  but  a  great  part  of  it  has  been 
cleared  away  for  modern  structures  and  a  thoroughfare 
westward  by  the  S  side  of  the  Castle.  The  upper  end 
of  it  was  in  early  times  a  place  of  public  execution  for 
heretics,  witches,  traitors,  and  common  criminals. 

The  old  closes  and  small  courts,  not  yet  abolished, 
that  branch  off  fi'om  this  entire  line  of  street,  still  retain, 
though  for  most  part  in  a  sadly  faded  and  broken  down 
condition,  many  of  the  houses  once  inhabited  by  dis- 
tinguished families  and  associated  ■with  the  names  of 
people  who  played  an  illustrious  part  in  the  past  history 
of  the  city  and  country.  Tweeddale  Court,  No.  10 
Netherbow,  contains  what  was  once  the  town  mansion 
of  the  noble  family  of  Tweeddale,  and  in  the  after-times 
the  head  office  of  the  British  Linen  Company's  Bank, 
but  what  is  now  the  publishing  establishment  of  Oliver 
and  Boyd.  The  alley  which  leads  to  this  court  was  in 
1806  the  scene  of  a  mysterious  murder,  whereby  a  porter 
of  the  bank  of  the  name  of  Begbie,  after  being  stabbed  to 
the  heart,  was  robbed  of  £4932,  which  he  was  conveying 
to  the  main  office  from  a  sub-office  in  Leith.  Suspicion 
attached  to  a  jjrofessional  thief  from  London,  who  was 
afterwards  arraigned  and  brought  to  justice  for  another 
ofience.  Nearly  opposite  to  Tweeddale  Court  stands  John 
Knox's  House,  a  good  example  of  the  more  ancient  pic- 
turesque and  curiously  gabled  houses  of  the  Old  Town. 
Along  the  lintel  of  the  ground  floor,  in  old  spelling,  is 
the  inscription,  '  Love  God  above  all,  and  your  neigh- 
bour as  yourself;'  whilst  at  the  corner  there  is  an  effigy 
of  what,  from  a  frame  there  was  once  round  it,  was  sup- 
posed to  represent  the  reformer  preaching,  but  was  after- 
wards found,  when  the  frame  was  removed,  to  be  Ikloses 
receiving  the  ten  commandments  from  the  Lord,  a  more 
likely  symbol  for  the  house  of  the  reformer  than  any 
effigies  of  himself.  Hyndford's  Close,  at  No.  50  High 
Street,  contained  the  ancient  mansion  of  the  Earls  of 
Hyndford,  which  was  afterwards  occupied  by  Sir  Walter 
Scott's  maternal  grandfather,  and  a  frequent  resort  of 
Sir  Walter  when  a  boy.  It  was  in  this  close  the  famous 
Duchess  of  Gordon  and  her  sister  stayed  in  their  romp- 
ing girlhood.  Here,  too,  lived  Lady  Anne  Bernard, 
the  authoress  of  the  ballad  of  '  Auld  Robin  Gray. '  South 
Gray's  Close,  at  No.  56,  contains  the  old  town  mansion 
of  the  Earls  of  Selkirk  and  Stirling,  which  is  now  the 
residence  of  the  priests  of  St  Patrick's  Pioman  Catholic 
church  ;  and  it  leads  down  to  Elphinstone's  Court,  where 
were  the  residences  of  Sir  James  Elphinstone  and  Lord 
Loughborough  among  others  ;  and  to  Mint  Court,  the 
476 


EDINBURGH 

site  of  the  national  mint,  which  was  erected  in  1574, 
and  the  residences  of  Dr  CuUen,  Lord  Hailes,  Lord 
Belhaven,  the  Countess  of  Stair,  Doughs  of  Cavers,  and 
the  famous  Earl  of  Argyll,  all  of  the  latter  part  of  the 
17th  century.  Chalmers'  Close,  at  No.  81,  contained  the 
mansion  of  the  ancestors  of  the  Earls  of  Hopetoun  and 
the  residence  of  Lord  Jeffrey's  grandfather,  often  fre- 
quented by  Lord  Jeffrey  in  his  boyhood.  Paisley's  Close, 
at  No.  101,  was  entered  through  a  large  loft)'  house  of 
1612,  which  contained  the  shop  of  Sir  William  Fettes, 
the  founder  of  Fettes  College,  and  which,  on  a  night  in 
November  1861,  suddenly  fell,  burying  23  persons  in 
its  ruins.  Todrick's  Wynd,  nearly  opposite  Paisley 
Close,  was  the  scene,  in  1590,  of  a  grand  banquet  given 
by  the  city  magistrates  to  the  Danish  nobles  who  accom- 
panied the  queen  of  James  VI.  to  Scotland.  Black- 
friars'  WjTid,  at  No.  96,  now  superseded  by  Blackfriars 
Street,  took  its  name  from  a  Blackfriars'  Monastery 
which  stood  on  the  slope  facing  its  S  end.  It  was,  for 
more  than  five  centm'ies,  a  highly  aristocratic  quarter, 
and  contained  residences  of  bishops,  archbishops,  car- 
dinals, nobles,  and  princes.  This  wynd  is  specially 
distinguished  as  the  site  of  a  palace  of  Cardinal  Beaton, 
which  stood  at  its  foot ;  it  had  an  ancient  church,  which 
continued  to  be  used  till  about  1835  as  a  Roman  Catholic 
chapel  and  an  Episcopalian  chm"ch,  long  attended  by  a 
fashionable  and  wealthy  congregation.  It  has  witnessed 
many  scenes  of  political  intrigue  and  conflicts  of  faction. 
Strichen's  Close,  at  No.  104,  contains  what  was  the 
town  mansion  of  the  abbots  of  Alelrose,  which  was 
afterwards  occupied  by  Sir  George  Mackenzie,  '  the 
bluidy  Mackenzie '  of  persecuting  fame.  Dickson's 
Close,  at  No.  118,  contained  the  to\vn  mansion  of  the 
the  Halliburtons,  and  also  the  residence  of  '  the  Scot- 
tish Hogarth,'  David  Allan.  Bishop's  Close,  at  No.  129, 
took  its  name  from  containing  the  town  mansion  of 
Archbishop  Spottiswood,  which  was  afterwards  occu- 
pied by  Ladj'  Jane  Douglas  ;  it  contained  also  the  man- 
sion of  the  first  Lord  President  Dundas,  and  was  the 
birthplace  of  the  first  Viscount  Melville.  Carrubber's 
Close,  at  No.  135,  contained,  till  a  few  years  ago,  a  very 
old  Episcopalian  church,  then  the  oldest  in  Scotland, 
and  the  only  one  in  the  S  of  Scotland  that  had  been 
duly  consecrated  ;  and  a  house  built  by  Allan  Ramsay  in 
1736  for  a  theatre,  which,  however,  as  the  speculation 
failed,  the  city  authorities  being  adverse,  was  soon 
turned  to  other  uses,  and  afterwards  in  its  time  '  pla3'ed 
many  parts,'  being  used  successively  as  a  scientific 
lecture-room,  a  Rowite  chapel,  and  a  revival  meeting- 
house. It  contained  also  the  house  of  Sir  William 
Forbes,  as  also  that  of  Captain  Jlatthew  Henderson, 
much  frequented  by  the  poet  Burns,  and  the  ori- 
ginal workshop  of  James  Ballantyne,  the  author  of  the 
Gahcrlunzies  Wallet.  Most  of  these  have  now  been 
swept  away  in  connection  with  city  improvements  to 
form  part  of  the  roadway  of  Jeffrey  Street.  No.  153 
was  Allan  Ramsay's  house,  an  ancient  timber-fronted 
tenement ;  in  the  first  floor  was  his  first  publishing 
establishment,  ami  in  the  second  his  dwelling-house. 
Niddry's  Wynd,  opposite  Allan  Ramsay's  house,  con- 
tained a  temporary  residence  of  James  VI.  and  his  queen 
in  1591,  and  a  famous  chapel  of  1505,  founded  by  the 
Countess  of  Ross,  and  known  as  St  Mary's  Chapel ;  but 
this  wynd  was  nearly  all  rebuilt  at  the  constructing  of 
the  South  Bridge  in  1785-88,  and  is  now  called  Niddry 
Street.  Halkerston's  Wjmd,  at  No.  163,  served  in 
ancient  times  as  an  outlet  from  the  city,  by  way  of  a 
gate  at  its  foot  and  a  low  narrow  mound  across  the 
Nor'  Loch,  and  was  long  an  important  thoroughfare  ; 
but  now  it  scarcely  possesses  a  vestige  of  what  it  was. 

North  Bridge  and  South  Bridge,  jointly  forming  the 
great  thoroughfare  which  intersects  High  Street  through 
its  middle,  will  be  noticed  in  a  subsequent  paragraph. 
Cap  and  Feather  Close  stood  on  part  of  the  gi-ound  now 
occupied  by  North  Bridge  ;  is  still  represented  by  some 
of  the  houses  on  the  E  of  the  Bridge  line  ;  and  was 
the  birthplace  of  the  poet  Fergusson.  !Marlin's  Wynd 
stood  on  part  of  the  ground  now  occupied  by  South 
Bridge   and   adjoining  the  Tron  Church  ;    it   look  its 


EDINBURGH 

name  from  a  Frenrhman  of  tlie  16th  oentury  who 
first  paved  the  High  Street,  and  was  entered  through 
a  large  archway  or  pend,  in  a  stately  block  of  houses 
fronted  with  an  arcade-piazza.  Hunter  Square,  a  small 
quadrangle  partly  occupied  by  the  Tron  Church  at 
the  W  corner  of  High  Street  and  South  Bridge,  and 
Blair  Street,  a  short  thoroughfare  descending  from  the 
SW  corner  of  that  quadrangle,  were  formed  when  the 
South  Bridge  was  being  constructed,  and  took  their 
names  from  Sir  Hunter  Blair.  Kenned3''s  Close  stood  on 
the  site  of  Hunter  Square,  and  it  was  here  the  famous 
George  Buchanan  died.  Here,  on  his  deathbed,  find- 
ing that  the  money  he  had  was  too  little  to  pay  the 
expense  of  his  funeral,  he  ordered  it  to  be  distributed 
among  his  poor  neighbours,  adding  that  his  to^vnsfolk 
might  bury  or  not  bury  his  bones  as  it  seemed  good  to 
them.  These  were  interred  next  day  in  the  Grey  friars' 
Churchyard  at  the  public  charges.  Milne  Square,  at  No. 
173  High  Street,  immediately  W  of  North  Bridge,  was 
built  in  1689  by  the  architect  Robert  Milne  ;  it  is  entered, 
from  the  street,  by  an  archway,  and  was  long  an  aristo- 
cratic quarter  ;  two  flats  of  it,  now  on  the  line  of  Cock- 
burn  Street,  were  occupied  by  Charles  Erskine  of  Tin- 
wald.  Lord  Justice-Clerk,  who  died  in  1763.  Cockburn 
Street  was  formed  in  1859,  and  will  be  noticed  further 
on.  Covenant  Close,  at  No.  162  High  Street,  contains 
an  ancient  edifice,  in  which  the  National  Covenant  was 
signed  in  1638,  and  which  has  three  crow-stepped 
gables  figuring  curiously  in  close  views  from  the  S.  Old 
Assembly  Close,  at  No.  172,  contained  the  City  Assembly 
Rooms  from  1720  till  1726,  as  it  did  previously  the  man- 
sion of  Lord  Durie,  the  hero  of  the  ballad  of  Christie's 
Will.  Fishmarket  Close,  at  No.  190,  contained  the  resi- 
dences of  George  Heriot,  and  the  elder  Lord  President 
Dundas,  of  convivial  celebrity.  Fleshmarket  Close,  at  No. 
199,  was  long  the  residence  of  Henry  Dundas,  afterwards 
Viscount  Melville,  and  is  now  intersected  by  Cockburn 
Street.  Stamp  Office  Close,  at  No.  221,  contained  the 
town  mansion  of  the  ninth  Earl  of  Eglintoun,  which 
afterwards  became,  as  a  tavern,  a  famous  rendezvous  for 
men  of  rank  and  fashion  ;  it  was  used  by  the  Earl  of 
Leven,  as  Lord  High  Commissioner,  for  his  levees  during 
the  sittings  of  the  General  Assembly.  Anchor  Close,  at 
No.  213,  contained  the  residence  of  Lord  Provost 
Drummond  and  a  famous  printing  office  established  by 
Smellie,  author  of  the  Philosojjhy  of  Natural  History, 
and  it  retains  some  architectural  carvings  indicative 
of  its  importance  in  times  bygone.  Writers'  Court,  at 
No.  315,  contained  the  original  library  of  the  Writers 
to  the  Signet,  and  still  boasts  of  containing,  in  decayed 
condition,  the  meeting-place  of  the  Mirror  Club,  famous 
for  the  '  high  jinks '  described  in  Sir  Walter  Scott's  Guy 
Ma.nnering.  Warriston  Close,  at  No.  323,  contained 
the  residences  of  Sir  George  Urquhart,  Sir  Archibald 
Johnston,  and  other  distinguished  persons  ;  and  was 
long  one  of  the  most  important  alleys  of  the  city  ;  but 
now  possesses  scarcely  any  trace  of  its  ancient  features. 
Roxburgh  Close,  at  No.  341,  took  its  name  from  con- 
taining the  town  mansion  of  the  Earls  of  Roxburgh. 
Advocates'  Close,  at  No.  357,  contained  the  residences 
of  Lord  Westhall,  Lord  Advocate  Stewart,  and  other 
distinguished  lawyers,  and  figures  in  connection  with 
Andrew  Crosbie,  as  the  jirototype  of  'Councillor  Pleydell,' 
in  Sir  Walter  Scott's  Guy  Mannering.  Parliament 
Square,  largely  occupied  on  its  N  side  by  St  Giles' 
Church,  is  of  comparatively  small  extent,  and  occupies 
part  of  an  area  which  was  a  public  cemetery  from  very 
early  times  till  the  end  of  the  16th  century.  It  contains, 
at  or  near  a  spot  now  marked  with  a  small  stone  lettered 
I.  K.,  what  is  presumed  to  be  the  grave  of  John  Knox; 
was  long  called  the  Parliament  Close  ;  derived  its  name 
from  the  Scottish  Parliament,  which  was  held  there  ; 
and  is  occupied  entirely  with  pul)lic  buildings.  Here 
stands  an  ef|uestrian  statue  of  Charles  IL  erected  in 
1685  on  a  spot  previously  selected  for  a  monument  to 
Oliver  Cromwell.  County  Square,  opening  narrowly 
trom  the  NW  of  Parliament  Square,  and  flanked  on  the 
N  by  the  open  thoroughfare  of  Lawnmarket,  is  also 
of  comparatively  small  extent  ;  it  occupies  the  site  of 


EDINBURGH 

three  closes  which  had  fallen  into  ruins,  and  takes  its 
name  from  being  flanked  on  the  W  by  the  County  Hall. 
It  was  formerly  the  place  where  were  erected  the  hustings 
in  connection  with  elections  of  members  of  parliament 
for  the  city  and  county.  A  heart  formed  of  causeway 
stones  at  its  NE  corner  marks  the  site  of  the  Old  Tol- 
booth,  'the  Heart  of  Midlothian.'  Dunbar's  Close,  at 
No.  413  La^vnmarket,  opposite  the  County  Hall,  received 
its  name  from  being  the  headquarters  of  Cromwell's  army 
after  the  battle  of  Dunbar,  and  adjoins  a  large  handsome 
house  to  the  N,  said  to  have  been  occupied  by  the  Pro- 
tector himself.  Libberton's  Wynd,  now  an  extinct  alley 
southward  from  Lawiimarket,  between  the  rear  of  the 
County  Hall  and  the  roadway  of  George  IV.  Bridge, 
figures  in  extant  documents  so  early  as  the  year  1477. 
It  was  a  principal  thoroughfare  for  pedestrians  to  the 
southern  outskirts  ;  contained  a  famous  tavern,  fre- 
quented by  poets,  artists,  antiquaries,  advocates,  and 
judges  throughout  the  latter  part  of  last  century,  and 
became  so  noted  for  carousings  by  Robert  Burns  and 
his  admirers  as  to  be  eventually  called  Burns'  Tavern. 
The  head  of  this  close,  from  1817,  when  the  Old  Tol- 
booth  was  demolished,  till  the  date  of  the  last  public 
execution,  was  the  place  where  the  gibbet  was  erected, 
the  spot  being  now  indicated  by  three  reversed  stones 
in  the  causeway. 

Bank  Street  and  George  IV.  Bridge,  forming  the 
modern  carriage  thoroughfare  across  Lawnmarket,  will 
be  afterwards  noticed.  Old  Bank  Close,  off'  the  S  side 
of  Lawnmarket,  on  ground  now  occupied  by  the 
]iavement  of  Melbourne  Place  at  the  N  end  of 
George  IV.  Bridge,  contained  a  house  of  1588,  long 
occui>ied  by  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  an  ancient  large 
edifice  belonging  to  Cambuskenneth  Abbey,  and  a 
house  of  1569,  built  on  the  ruins  of  the  Cambusken- 
neth one,  owned  for  some  time  by  the  Crown  for  the 
accommodation  of  state  prisoners  and  ambassadors,  and 
inhabited  afterwards  successively  by  Sir  Thomas  Hope, 
the  Lord  President,  Sir  George  Lockhart,  and  other 
judges.  Brodie's  Close,  on  the  S  of  Lawnmarket,  just 
above  Melbourne  Place,  contained  the  Roman  Eagle 
Hall,  notable  for  its  masonic  meetings  in  Burns'  time, 
which  were  at  length  dissolved  on  account  of  the  dis- 
grace which  their  intemperate  proceedings  brought  on 
the  craft.  In  it  is  still  shown  in  the  front  tenement 
the  house  of  the  notorious  Brodie.  Riddle's  Close,  at 
No.  322,  was  inhabited  by  Provost  Sir  John  Smith,  by 
Bailie  ]\lacmoran,  who  entertained  at  his  table  here 
James  VI.  and  Queen  Anne  of  Denmark  ;  by  David 
Hume,  who  WTote  here  part  of  his  History  of  England  ; 
and  by  Lord  Royston,  Sir  Roderick  Mackenzie,  and 
several  other  distinguished  persons.  Lady  Stair's  Close, 
which  was  the  chief  thoroughfare  for  foot  passengers  to 
the  New  Town  prior  to  the  opening  of  Bank  Street,  at 
No.  447,  contains  the  house  where  the  fashionable 
society  of  the  city  was  long  presided  over  by  the 
Dowager  Countess  of  Stair,  whose  subsequent  historj-, 
as  Viscountess  Primrose,  forms  the  groundwork  of  Sir 
Walter  Scott's  story  of  My  Aunt  Margaret's  Mirror. 
Baxter's  Close,  at  No.  469,  contains  the  house  in  which 
the  poet  Burns  lodged  in  the  winter  of  1786-87,  paying 
Is.  6d.  a  week  for  share  of  a  poor  lodging  and  a  chaff' 
bed  with  a  Mauchline  friend,  and  a  house  which  be- 
longed to  the  Countess  of  Elgin,  the  governess  of  the 
Princess  Charlotte.  James'  Court,  at  No.  501,  was  built 
in  1727  as  an  aristocratic  quarter,  superseding  several 
ancient  closes.  It  contained  the  abodes  of  judges, 
nobles,  and  ecclesiastical  dignitaries.  It  extends,  as  a 
sort  of  terrace,  formed  on  a  rapid  slope  overlooking  the 
New  Town,  and  presents  a  rear  front  of  nine  stories, 
which  are  seen  there  towering  stupenilously,  and  com- 
mand a  magnificent  view  to  the  N.  Its  western  half 
contained,  irom  1762  till  1771,  the  house  of  David 
Hume,  and  also  the  residence  of  James  Boswell,  tlie  bio- 
grapher of  Dr  Johnson,  who  stayed  here  in  1773  as  he 
I)assed  through  the  city  on  his  famous  Scottish  tour. 
It  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1857  ;  Init  is  now  nqdaced 
by  lofty  picturesque  buildings  in  florid  oUl  Scottish  l!aro- 
nial  style.    Milne's  Court,  at  No.  51 7,  was  partly  built  in 

"  477 


EDINBURGH 


EDINBURGH 


1690  by  the  architect  who  constructed  Milne  Square  ; 
but  retains,  on  its  W  side,  houses  of  previous  periods, 
one  of  tliese  tlie  town  mansion  of  Sir  John  Harper  of 
Carabusnethan,  and  anotlier  that  of  the  lairds  of  Comis- 
ton.  The  West  Bow,  descending  sinuously  first  south- 
ward and  then  south-westward  from  tlie  upper  end  of 
Lawnmarket,  took  its  name  from  a  bow  or  arch  in  the  old 
town  wall,  wliich  formed  the  western  outlet  from  the 
cit}'.  It  was  probably  the  earliest  approach  to  the  city 
while  as  yet  it  was  confined  to  a  few  houses  within  and 
around  the  Castle,  and  was  earl}'  built  upon,  down  both 
its  sides,  by  densely-packed,  timber-fronted  tenements, 
and  served,  narrow,  winding,  steep,  and  rugged  as  it 
was,  till  the  latter  part  of  last  century,  as  the  carriage 
ogress  from  the  city  to  all  jdaces  in  the  W.  It  witnessed 
the  corteges  of  at  least  six  monarchs,  and  was  a  busy  place 
of  shops  and  workshops,  as  well  as  traffic,  even  in  the 
memory  of  people  still  alive  ;  and  contained  originally 
the  workshops  of  tlie  higher  class  of  artisans,  tenements 
of  the  Knights  Templars  surmounted  by  crosses,  the 
house  of  the  re})uted  wizard  Major  Weir,  the  city 
Assembly  Rooms  from  1602  till  1720,  and  the  provost's 
mansion  in  which  Prince  Charles  Edward  was  enter- 
tained in  1745  ;  but  about  1830  it  underwent  such  total 
alteration  as,  except  in  a  house  or  two  at  the  top  and 
bottom,  to  be  no  longer  recognisable  by  those  who  knew 
it  before  the  work  of  demolition  began.  Demolitions 
of  recent  date,  and  going  on  just  now,  have  extin- 
guished all  traces  at  the  top.  The  Castle  Hill,  with 
closet  and  small  courts  leading  from  it,  was  long,  as 
already  noted,  a  highly  aristocratic  quarter ;  it  con- 
tained a  palace  of  the  Queen  Regent,  Mary  of  Guise, 
and  a  mansion  of  the  Marquis  of  Argyll  ;  and  still  con- 
tains houses  which  were  once  inhabited  by  such  notables 
as  the  Dukes  of  Gordon,  the  Earls  of  Lennox,  the  Earls 
of  Cassillis,  the  Earl  of  Dumfries,  Dowager  Countess  of 
Hyndford,  Lord  Sempill,  Lord  Rockville,  Lady  Eliza- 
beth Howard,  Lord  Holyroodhouse,  and  General  Sir 
David  Baird.  Ramsay  Lane,  descending  northward 
from  the  N  side  of  Castle  Hill,  contained  the  residence 
of  the  'Laird  o'  Cockpen,'  one  of  the  Rarasays  of  Dal- 
housie,  and  leads  to  a  garden  off  its  AV  side,  containing 
what  was  Allan  Ramsay's  House,  a  curious  octagonal 
edifice  built  by  the  poet  himself,  enlarged  by  his  son, 
afterwards  owned  by  the  late  Lord  Murray,  and  vulgarly 
known  in  the  poet's  lifetime  as  the  '  Goose  Pie.'  On  tlie 
E  side  of  Ramsay  Lane  stands  the  Original  Ragged 
School,  founded  by  Dr  Guthrie. 

Canonr/ate. — Caiioiigate  was  originally  a  suburb  of  the 
city,  extending  eastward  from  the  Netherbow  to  Holy- 
rood.  It  sprang  up  in  connection  with  the  Abbey  ; 
was  founded  in  the  time  of  David  I.  by  its  canons  or 
monks,  and  was  so  called  as  forming  the  approach  to  the 
Abbey  from  the  city  and  Castle.  A  burgh  of  regality 
almost  from  its  birth,  it  received  charters  of  incoriDora- 
tion  or  burgh  privileges  in  succession  from  David  I., 
Robert  I.,  and  Robert  II.  ;  and  tlie  abbots  of  Holyrood, 
being  made  superiors  of  the  burgh,  are  said  to  have 
appointed  for  its  government  bailies,  a  treasurer  and  a 
i-ouncil,  with  right  to  enrol  burgesses,  and  with  various 
other  privileges.  These  privileges,  with  certain  feu- 
duties  and  other  rights,  were  afterwards  conveyed  abso- 
lutely to  the  burgh  of  Canongate,  the  alibots  retaining 
only  the  bare  superiority,  which  they  continued  to  hold 
till  the  dissolution  of  the  abbey  at  the  time  of  the  Refor- 
mation. The  superiority  passed  then  to  Robert  Stewart, 
commendator  of  Holyrood,  next  to  Sir  Lewis  Bellenden 
of  Broughton,  afterwards  to  several  others,  till  at  length 
in  1630  it  was  acquired  by  the  city  of  Edinburgh.  The 
only  riglits  left  to  tlie  ancient  suburb  consisted  of  tlie 
superiority  over  certain  properties  within  its  bounds, 
the  right  to  levy  jietty  customs,  market  dues,  and  cause- 
way mail.  The  niagi:itrates  were  next  deprived  of  tlinir 
juri.sdietion  in  criminal  cases,  but  still  allowed  to  hold  a 
weekly  court  for  civil  causes,  and  for  some  classes  of 
(juestions  within  the  competency  of  sheriffs  and  magis- 
trates of  royal  burghs.  Tliey  still,  also,  acted  as  justices 
of  peace  for  their  own  territory,  assisted  by  an  assessor, 
who  was  a  member  of  the  faculty  of  advocates.  Thev 
478 


continued  to  hold  these  powers  under  the  superiority  of 
the  city  till  the  year  1856,  when  the  jurisdiction  was 
finally  merged  in  that  of  the  Edinburgh  corporation  by 
the  Municipal  Extension  Act.  This  jurisdiction  ex- 
tended at  one  time  not  only  over  the  Canongate,  but 
also  the  Holyrood  precincts,  or  Abbey,  St  Cuthbert's, 
Pleasance,  North  Leith,  and  Coalhill,  South  Leitli ;  and 
no  one  but  a  burgess  or  freeman  of  Canongate  was  at 
liberty  to  carry  on  trade  or  manufacture  within  the 
bounds,  and  even  this  liberty  was  restricted  to  burgesses 
enrolled  as  members  of  particular  craf  cs.  The  admission 
fee  for  becoming  a  burgess  was  £3,  3s.  in  the  case  of  a 
stranger,  and  £1,  lis.  6d.  for  the  son  of  a  burgess.  The 
incorporated  trades  were  hammermen,  tailors,  wrights, 
bakers  or  baxters,  shoemakers,  weavers,  fleshers,  and 
barbers,  and  they  were  incorporated  by  royal  charter  in 
1630.  They  possessed  considerable  funds  ;  and  for  the 
management  and  appropriation  of  these  funds  for  behoof 
of  poor  members  and  members'  widows,  the  trades'  in- 
corpoi-ations  still  have  nominal  existence  in  one  united 
association. 

The  burgh  of  Canongate  was  long  divided  from  the 
cit}'  by  a  trench  of  open  ground,  and  had  much  of  the 
character  of  a  separate  town.  Many  of  its  older  houses 
are  believed  to  have  been  built  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  retainers  of  the  court  of  Holyrood,  and  as  these 
were  added  to  for  craftsmen  and  tradesmen,  the  burgh 
extended  gradually  westward  till  it  marched  with  the  city 
at  Netherbow.  Its  streets  and  closes  striking  oft"  the 
main  thoroughfare  opened  originally,  where  they  opened 
at  all,  on  the  country,  or  were  enclosed  only  by  a  wall 
so  slender  as  to  be  practically  useless  for  defence  ;  but 
the  burgh  enjoyed  a  sufficient  protection  from  marauders 
and  military  assault  under  oover  of  the  ecclesiastical 
authorities  of  the  Abbey.  This  immunity,  however, 
was  rudely  broken  in  1543,  when  the  forces  of  Henry 
VIII.  ravaged  the  burgh,  inflicting  great  havoc.  Prior 
to  this,  eventful  as  the  times  were,  the  burgh  can  be 
said  to  have  had  little  history  of  its  own,  figuring  as  it 
did  mainly  as  an  appanage  of  the  Abbey,  and  even  its 
sacred  affairs,  both  as  regards  church  and  cemetery,  were 
down  to  Revolution  times  all  identified  with  Holy- 
rood.  During  the  siege  of  Edinburgh  in  1571,  the 
burgh  was  for  a  brief  period  the  seat  of  parliament,  the 
basis  of  attack  upon  the  city,  and  the  scene  of  some  not- 
able incidents,  when  it  sutlered  severe  injury  from  the 
artillery  of  Kirkaldy  of  Grange. 

The  Canongate  retains  none  of  its  buildings  erected 
prior  to  1544,  but  a  number  of  those  extant  were  town 
mansions  of  the  nobility  subsecpient  to  the  reign  of 
Ciueen  Mary,  olfering,  some  of  them,  features  attrac- 
tive to  the  antiquary,  while  several  derive  an  interest 
from  historical  and  other  associations.  The  main 
street  begins  at  the  area  in  front  of  Holyrood,  and 
stretches  upward  and  westward  for  about  650  yards  to 
the  Nethei'bow  gateway  already  described,  which  till 
1762  separated  tlie  burgli  from  the  High  Street.  It 
thus  occupies  the  E  end  of  the  wedge-shaped  ridge  or 
central  hill  on  which  the  more  ancient  division  of  the 
city  stands  ;  forms  part  of  the  noble  old  street  extending 
from  the  Castle  to  Holyrood,  which,  though  it  presents 
now  a  broken-down  and  dingy  appearance,  is  not  yet 
shorn  of  all  its  ancient  picturesque  grandeur.  W3'nds, 
courts,  and  closes  strike  olf  both  sides,  leading  to  two 
}>arallel  thoroughfares  called  respectively  the  North  and 
the  South  Back  of  Canongate,  and  there  are  partly  on 
the  street  line  and  partly  within  these  alleys  and  courts 
a  number  of  old  aristocratic  and  public  buildings.  The 
North  Back  strikes  oft'  from  the  E  end  of  the  main 
street,  passes  along  the  gorge  between  the  central  hill 
and  Calton  Hill,  and  is  overhung  on  the  N  side  by 
precipitous  slopes,  by  some  public  buildings,  and  by 
the  mural  rocks  which  bear  aloft  the  walls  and  castel- 
lated towers  of  the  Prison  ;  it  joins  at  its  western  end 
with  Low  Calton,  and  is  now  altogether  unimpressive 
save  as  the  site  here  and  there  of  places  of  anti(juarian 
interest.  The  South  Back  strikes  westward  from  the 
SW  corner  of  the  Holyrood  area  ;  runs  partly  on  low 
ground  verging  on  the  Queen's  Park  and  partly  along 


EDINBURGH 

the  gorge  between  the  central  and  southern  hills  of  the 
old  citj' ;  and  measures  750  yards  in  length.  It  con- 
tains extensive  breweries,  a  Retreat,  connected  with 
Queensberry  House,  built  about  1860,  a  glass  work, 
several  manufactories,  St  Andrew's  Episcopal  Church, 
Moray  Free  Church ;  and  is  winged  partly  on  its 
southern  side  by  long  ranges  of  workmen's  houses  ex- 
tending towards  Dumbiedykes  and  confronting  Salis- 
bury Crags.  On  the  same  side,  at  the  western  end,  is 
St  John's  Hill,  now  of  little  account,  but  anciently  be- 
longing in  succession  to  the  Knights  Templars  and  the 
Knights  of  St  John  of  Jerusalem  ;  and  the  street  ter- 
minates on  the  N  of  this  hill  in  a  line  with  Cowgate, 
where  St  Mary  Street  strikes  N  and  the  Pleasance  S. 
New  Street  descends  N  from  the  Canongate  to  North 
Back,  was  formed  as  a  genteel  place  of  residence  before 
the  New  Town  was  thought  of,  and  contained  the  town 
mansion  of  the  Earls  of  Angus  and  a  house  occupied  by 
the  French  Ambassador  to  the  Court  of  Queen  Mary. 
New  Street  had  for  occasional  occupants,  last  century, 
Lord  Kaimes,  Lord  Hailes,  and  Sir  Philip  Anstruther  ; 
now  the  gas-works,  though  the  houses  are  still  in  fairly 
good  order,  have  a  large  section  of  frontage  on  one  side. 
Leith  Wynd,  which  formerly  descended  northward  from 
the  W  end  of  the  Canongate  to  Low  Calton,  and  is  now 
absorbed  in  its  upper  part  into  the  line  of  Jeffrey  Street, 
was  at  one  time  a  thoroughfare  from  Edinburgh  to 
Leith,  and  contained  anciently  several  public  build- 
ings, as  Paul's  Work  and  Trinity  College,  with  hospital, 
which  have  been  removed  to  make  way  for  the  goods 
station  and  other  offices  of  the  North  British  railway 
terminus.  St  Mary  Street,  formerly  St  Mary's  ^Yynd, 
descends  soutliward  from  the  W  end  of  the  Canongate 
to  South  Back,  and  took  its  name  from  an  ancient 
Cistercian  nunnery,  with  chapel  and  hospital,  dedicated 
to  St  Mary.  Several  principal  inns  stood  here  at  one 
time,  as  this  wynd  was  long  a  chief  southern  outlet 
from  the  city  to  the  S  prior  to  the  construction  of 
South  Bridge.  Originally  a  mere  alley  of  some  pic- 
turesqueness,  it  became  at  length  a  nest  of  such  squalid 
misery  as  to  be  one  of  the  lirst  places  to  come  under  the 
Improvement  Scheme  of  1867,  and  it  is  now  a  spacious 
and  well-aired  street,  having  a  range  of  neat  new  build- 
ings in  a  Gothic  style  on  the  E  side.  Pleasance,  which 
runs  S  from  St  Mary  Street,  received  its  name  by  cor- 
ruption from  an  ancient  nunnery  dedicated  to  St  Mary 
of  Placentia,  and  was  originall}-  a  suburban  village  of 
the  Canongate  ;  it  is  now  a  densely  peopled  street  con- 
nected southward  and  laterally  by  side  streets  westward 
with  the  southern  extension  of  the  city.  St  John  Street 
strikes  off  nearly  opposite  New  Street  to  South  Back,  it  is 
entered  from  tlie  main  street  through  an  archway,  but 
terminates  openly  and  widely  on  the  S,  and  has  a  spa- 
cious appearance,  and  large  uniform  self-contained  houses 
built  about  1768.  Designed  as  an  aristocratic  quarter, 
St  John  Street  was  inhabited  for  some  time  by  judges, 
baronets,  barons,  and  Earls,  among  these  being  Lord 
Monboddo,  Lord  Eskgrove,  the  first  Earl  of  Hopetoun, 
and  the  Earl  of  Dalhousie,  and  Smollett,  the  novelist, 
also  lived  here. 

At  the  foot  of  Canongate  directly  opposite  the  barrier 
called  the  Watergate,  and  a  main  apj^roach  to  the  city 
before  the  erection  of  the  North  Bridge,  at  one 
time  the  principal  entrance  to  the  burgh,  stood  the 
Girth  Cross,  the  site  of  wliich  is  now  identified  by  an 
arrangement  of  stones  in  the  causeway,  indicating  the 
boundary  of  the  Abbey  sanctuary  ;  it  was  originally  a 
small  structure  on  a  pediment,  consisting  of  a  few  ste})s, 
and  figures  in  history  as  the  scene  of  some  notable  public 
executions.  White  Horse  Close,  or  Davidson's  Close, 
on  the  N  side  further  W,  contains  a  range  of  houses 
buUt  in  1523,  long  used  as  the  principal  inn  of  the  old 
burgh,  and  graphically  depicted  by  Scott  in  IVaverley. 
Whiteford  House,  W  from  White  Horse  Close,  is 
entered  by  a  lane  or  entry,  and  occupies  the  site  of  an 
ancient  mansion  of  the  Earls  of  Winton,  the  scene  of 
several  inciilents  in  Scott's  Abbot;  it  was  built  by  Sir 
John  Whiteford,  and  at  his  death  passed  to  Lord  Banna- 
tyne,  but  is  now  turned  into  a  type-foundry.     Queens- 


EDINBUBGH 

berry  House,  situated  in  an  enclosure  off  the  S  side,  was 
built  in  1681  by  Lord  Halton,  afterwards  third  Earl  of 
Lauderdale  ;  passed  by  purchase  to  the  first  Duke  of 
Queensberry  ;  was  a  frequent  residence  of  his  immediate 
successors  to  the  title  ;  and  figured  largely  as  a  scene  of 
riotous  turmoil  and  revelry  about  the  time  of  the  Union. 
It  was  eventually  sold  to  government,  stripped  of  much 
of  its  rich  decorations,  and  converted  into  an  infantry 
barrack ;  by-and-by  it  became  a  fever  hospital,  and  is 
now  a  plain  sombre  building  occupied  as  a  house  of 
refuge  for  the  destitute.  Milton  House,  within  another 
enclosure  on  the  same  side,  further  W,  was  built  by 
Fletcher  of  Milton,  a  relative  of  Fletcher  of  Saltoun,  and 
occupies  ground  partly  attached  as  a  garden  to  a  mansion 
of  the  Earls  of  Roxburgh.  It  still  bears  indications  of 
having  once  been  a  handsome  building ;  it  was  about 
thirty  years  ago  a  Roman  Catholic  school,  and  has  since 
been  put  to  a  variety  of  uses.  Canongate  Church,  in  an 
open  area  on  the  N  side,  built  in  1688,  is  a  very  plain 
quasi-cruciform  edifice,  and  bears  on  the  top  of  its  front 
gable  a  horned  deer's  head  with  a  cross,  representing  the 
crest  of  the  old  burgh,  and  intended  as  an  emblem  of 
an  alleged  incident  in  the  life  of  David  I.  which  gave 
rise  to  the  erection  of  Holyrood  Abliey.  This  church 
was  originally  built  on  account  of  the  Abbey  church, 
wliich  the  inhabitants  of  Canongate  had  attended  from 
the  time  of  the  Reformation,  having,  in  1687,  been 
handed  over  by  James  VII.  for  ser\ace  according  to  the 
rites  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  The  churchyard 
l3dng  round  the  church,  extending  to  North  Back,  is 
crowded  in  every  part,  and  contains  the  remains  of 
Adam  Smith,  David  Allan,  Dugald  Stewart,  Dr  Gregory, 
Provost  Drummond,  and  the  poet  Fergusson,  over  whose 
grave  Robert  Burns  erected  a  monument,  and  on  which 
he  inscribed  lines  to  his  memory.  In  1880  a  rose- 
coloured  granite  monument,  26  feet  high,  was  erected 
here  in  memory  of  the  soldiers  who  died  in  Edinburgh 
Castle  from  1692,  and  had  been  interred  here.  The 
Tolbooth,  immediately  N  of  the  c-hm-ch,  is  a  pic- 
turesque, rather  grim,  building  of  1591,  having  over  an 
archway  the  inscription — Patrice  et  posteris,  and  with 
a  small  spire  and  projecting  clock ;  it  was  long  used  for 
parochial  board  purposes,  and  is  now  employed  partly 
for  the  registrar  of  the  district,  partly  as  a  public  read- 
ing-room, and  partly  as  a  police  sub-ofiice.  An  ancient 
cross,  which  formerly  stood  in  the  centre  of  the  adjacent 
thoroughfare,  aud  was  used  as  a  pillory  for  offenders 
against  morality,  is  now  attached  to  a  corner  of  the  Tol- 
booth. Tolbooth  W5'nd,  close  by,  formerly  contained 
the  Canongate  Poorhouse,  opened  in  1761,  but  now 
disused.  Bakehouse  Close,  a  squalid  lane  nearly  oppo- 
site, is  fronted  towards  the  street  by  a  building  of  1570, 
at  one  time  the  town  residence  of  the  first  and  second 
Marquises  of  Huntly.  Moray  House,  on  the  S  side  a 
little  below  St  John  Street,  forms  a  massive  pile  with 
stone  balcony,  an  entrance  gateway  with  pyramidal  stone 
posts,  and  large  garden  area.  It  was  built  in  Charles  I.  's 
time  by  the  Dowager  Countess  of  Home  ;  became  the  re- 
sidence of  the  Earls  of  Moray  ;  and  was  temporarily  occu- 
pied by  Cromwell  and  by  Lord  Chancellor  Seafield.  It 
was  on  this  balcony  the  Marquis  of  Argyll  and  his  family 
stood  to  witness  the  Marquis  of  Montrose  carried  along  to 
execution.  It  afterwards  became  successively  an  office 
of  the  British  Linen  Company's  Bank,  a  paper  ware- 
house, a  sugar  refinery,  a  temporary  home  for  the  chil- 
dren of  the  Orphan  Hospital,  and  is  now  occupied  by 
the  Free  Church  Normal  School,  while  in  part  of  the 
garden  ground  stands  Moray  Free  Church,  built  in  1862 
in  Early  English  style,  with  main  entrance  from  South 
]5ack.  A  considerable  addition  to  Moray  House  Scliool 
was  made  in  1877  at  a  cost  of  about  £5i00.  This  new 
building  was  110  feet  in  length  by  45  in  width,  and  was 
two  stories  in  height ;  is  of  plain  character  in  front, 
with  windows  having  splayed  polished  facings,  moulded 
sills  and  trusses.  Holyrood  Free  Church  stands  amid 
a  Ijlock  of  buildings  adjacent  to  the  Abbey  area,  and^is 
a  plain  edifice.  Playhouse  Close,  an  old  lane  at  No. 
196,  contains  a  building  of  1746,  which  was  the  first 
regular  theatre  in  Edinburgh.    Jack's  Land,  a  large  lofty 

479 


EDINBURGH 

pile  opposite  St  John  Street,  was  once  the  residence  of 
the  Countess  of  Eglintoun,  and  was  afterwards  occupied 
by  David  Hume  from  1758  till  1762.  IMorocco  Land,  a 
large  square  tenement,  still  retains  in  its  front  a  curious 
effigy  of  a  Moor,  of  which  there  are  various  traditions, 
these  generally  identif3'ing  it  with  the  last  visitation  of 
the  plague  to  Edinburgh.  Chessels  Court,  at  No.  240, 
still  shows  remains  of  a  better  class  of  architecture,  and 
about  the  middle  of  last  ccntur)'  contained  the  Excise 
office.  The  parish  of  Canongate  includes  most  of  Queen's 
Park,  extends  eastward  to  L)unsap])ie  Loch,  south-east- 
ward to  Duddingston  Loch,  S  to  Prestonfield  ;  and  is 
bounded  on  the  N  by  South  Leith,  on  the  E  by  Dudding- 
ston village,  on  the  S  by  Liberton,  on  the  SW  by  St 
Cuthbert's.  The  parish  formerly  had  a  poorhouse,  but  it  is 
now  combined  with  that  of  St  Cuthbert's.  (See  J.  Mac- 
kay's  History  of  the  Bunih  of  Canongate,  with  Notices 
of  the  Abbey  and  Palace  of  Holy  rood,  Edinb.  1879.) 

St  Cuthbert's. — St  Cuthbert's,  originally  beyond  the 
city  walls  and  W  of  Nor'  Loch,  ranks  in  respect  of 
antiquity  next  to  the  Castle  and  High  Street.  This 
parish  is  bounded  on  the  N  by  the  Firth  of  Forth,  NE 
by  North  Leith  and  South  Leith,  E  by  the  old  royalty 
and  Liberton,  SE  and  S  by  Liberton,  SW  by  Colinton, 
W  by  Corstorphine,  and  N  W  by  Cramond.  The  greatest 
length  is  5  miles  ;  greatest  breadth  3f  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  6675  acres,  of  which  76i  lie  detached,  14  are 
foreshore,  and  13^  are  water.  The  portions  of  this 
parish  beyond  the  ^parliamentary  bounds  conjoin  with 
the  district  of  Dean  in  a  school-board  of  their  own. 
The  parish  extends  in  one  direction  from  Braid  Hills  to 
Trinity,  in  others  from  Slateford  to  Queen's  Park,  and 
from  Corstorphine  Hill  to  North  Leith.  The  surface  of 
the  parish  is  exceedingly  diversified,  and  comprises  a 
broad  zone  of  the  city,  the  lands  of  the  Braids  and 
Blackford,  portions  of  the  suburban  districts  of  Mor- 
ningside  and  Grange,  the  JMeadows  and  Bruntsfield 
Links,  the  plain  extending  westward  to  JIurrayfield, 
the  dell  of  the  Water  of  Leith  from  Slateford  down  to 
Bonnington,  and  the  tract  of  land,  rich  in  gardens  and 
nursery  grounds,  stretching  from  the  AVater  of  Leith  to 
Craigleith,  and  northwards  to  the  shore  at  Trinity. 
Originally  St  Cuthbert's  parish  was  of  such  extent  as  to 
comprise  many  of  the  present  parishes  of  the  city,  as 
well  as  those  of  North  Leith,  South  Leith,  Corstorpliine, 
and  Liberton.  The  original  church  is  said  to  have  been  a 
Culdee  cell,  which  derived  its  name  from  the  Culdee  mis- 
sionary, St  Cuthbert,  who,  after  itinerating  as  a  preacher 
from  York  to  the  Forth,  became  head  of  the  monastic 
house  of  Lindisfarne  or  Holy  Island,  and  whose  name,  after 
his  death  in  687,  was  thus  perpetuated  here  as  elsewhere 
in  the  S  of  Scotland.  The  i)arish,  besides  being  the 
oldest,  by-and-by  became  one  of  the  wealthiest ;  its  first 
church  is  believed  to  have  been  built  about  or  soon  after 
St  Cutlibert's  death,  acquiring  endowments  at  or  before 
the  date  of  the  charter  of  Holyrood ;  and,  with  its  '  kirk 
town  '  and  other  rights,  it  was  given  by  David  L  to  Holy- 
rood  Abbey.  The  limits  of  the  parish  were  considerably 
reduced  in  Roniisli  times,  and  were  afterwards  still  fur- 
ther reduced  by  the  withdrawal  of  those  portions  which 
now  form  the  parishes  of  the  New  Town.  Even  as  re- 
duced at  first,  however,  St  Cuthbert's  had  a  number  of 
ecclesiastical  institutions,  one  of  these  being  the  nunnery 
dedicated  to  St  Mary  of  Placentia,  already  referred  to 
as  adjacent  to  the  city  wall,  at  that  portion  of  the  city 
now  forming  the  E  of  Drummond  Street,  and  still 
leaving  traces  of  the  name,  Plcasance,  given  to  the  dis- 
trict. Besides  this  there  were  others  in  St  Cuthbert's 
jiarisli — a  chapel  or  hospital  dedicated  to  St  Leonard, 
which  stood  on  the  E  side  of  the  road  leading  soutli- 
ward  to  Dalkeitli,  as  the  name  of  the  adjoining  locality 
still  witnesses  ;  another  cliapel,  l)elonging  to  the  Knights 
Templars,  which  occupied  a  rising-ground  in  Newington, 
witli  a  cemetery  attached,  in  wliich  were  found,  about 
the  beginning  of  last  century,  several  bodies  with  swords 
alongside  ;  a  convent  of  Dominican  nuns,  founded  by 
Lady  St  Clair  of  Koslin,  and  dedicated  to  St  Catherine 
of  Sionna,  which  stood  in  the  Grange  near  the  Meadows, 
and  gave  the  name  of  Scienncs  to  a  district  around  its 
480 


EDINBURGH 

site,  a  house  in  St  Catherine's  Place  showing  a  tablet 
in  its  front  plot  to  indicate  the  supposed  site  of  this 
convent ;  St  Roque's  Chapel,  which  stood  on  the  W 
end  of  Boroughmuir,  and  had  also  a  cemetery,  which 
was  used  by  the  citizens  of  Edinburgh  for  about  two 
centuries,  and  was  specially  a  place  of  interment  for 
persons  who  died  of  epidemic  diseases  ;  St  John's  Chapel, 
which  stood  E  of  St  Roque's  ;  and  another,  dedicated 
to  the  Virgin  Mar}-,  which  occupied  a  spot  in  the  suburb 
of  Portsburgh  still  known  as  Chapel  Wynd.  St  Cuth- 
bert's Church,  or  the  'West  Kirk,'  as  it  is  popularly 
called,  has  always  stood  at  the  W  end  of  the  Nor' 
Loch  valley,  close  to  the  base  of  the  Castle  rock.  The 
original  building  disappeared  at  some  period  unknown 
to  record,  and  that  which  was  erected  in  its  place  was  a 
large  cruciform  edifice  with  a  massive  square  tower, 
which,  after  undergoing  many  repairs  and  alterations, 
and  suffering  much  damage  during  the  siege  of  the 
Castle  in  1689,  was  pronounced  incapable  of  restoration. 
Taken  down  at  last  in  1775,  it  then  gave  place  to  the 
present  building,  which,  exclusive  of  the  steeple,  cost 
£4231.  It  is  an  exceedingly  plain  structure,  but 
has  a  most  commodious  interior,  containing  3000  sit- 
tings. The  steeple  was  a  later  addition,  and  was 
erected  by  subscription  in  the  hope  of  lessening  the  un- 
gainliness  of  the  church,  which,  though  it  has  on  the 
whole  a  heavy  appearance,  now  with  this  added  feature 
blends  fairly  well  with  the  neighbouring  scenery.  An 
extensive  churchyard  surrounds  the  edifice,  dating  from 
very  ancient  times,  and  contains  a  great  number  of 
monuments — one  of  these,  to  the  memory  of  advocate 
Jamieson,  son  of  the  Scottish  lexicographer,  is  adorned 
with  sculpture,  representing  the  advocate  as  protecting 
the  innocent  and  bringing  the  oppressor  to  justice  ;  and 
another,  by  Handj-side  Ritchie,  on  the  basement  of 
the  steeple,  is  commemorative  of  Dr  Dickson,  a  highly - 
esteemed  and  popular  minister  of  St  Cuthbert's,  and 
represents  him  as  the  consoler  of  the  widow  and  orjdian. 
De  Quincey,  Dr  Combe,  the  pliysiologist,  and  many 
other  eminent  persons  have  been  interred  in  this  church- 
yard. (See  George  Seton's  Convent  of  Saint  Catherine 
of  Sienna,  near  Edinburgh,  Edinb.  1871.) 

The  modern  thoroughfares  off  tlie  line  of  Netherbow, 
High  Street,  and  Lawnmarket  are  of  various  dates  and 
character ;  and  they  were  rendered  necessary  as  the 
city  extended  further  northwanl  and  southward.  Of 
these,  George  IV.  Bridge  extending  southward  and  the 
approach  westward  were  formed  in  the  years  1825-36, 
uiuler  the  authority  of  a  special  act  of  parliament,  at  a 
cost  of  about  £400,000.  North  Bridge,  South  Bridge, 
Bank  Street,  and  Cockburn  Street  were  constructed  and 
completed  respectively  in  1772, 1788, 1798,  and  1859.  St 
Mary  Street,  Blackfriars  Street,  and  Jeffrey  Street,  on 
the  line  of  Netherbow  and  High  Street,  arose  out  of  the 
Improvement  Scheme  of  1867,  authorised  by  parliament, 
on  an  estimate  that  it  would  cost  £300,000  for  the  mere 
ac(piisition  of  old  property  and  the  laying  out  of  new 
streets,  and  require  upwards  of  thirty  years  for  comple- 
tion. This  last  scheme  originally  provided  for  the  open- 
ing of  new  diagonal  streets  across  the  wynds  and  closes 
flanking  the  main  tlioroughfares,  the  widening  of  several 
closes  to  the  breadth  of  airy  streets,  the  opening  of 
broad  passages  tlirough  archways  to  the  new  diagonal 
streets,  the  removal  of  wooden  fronts  from  the  older 
houses,  and  the  forming  of  open  paved  courts  in  the 
denser  and  more  ruinous  portions  of  the  closely-built 
areas  flanking  the  main  thoroughfares— aiming  thus  at 
two  main  objects,  first,  the  amelioration  of  the  evils 
arising  from  overcrowding  and  defective  ventila- 
tion ;  and,  secondly,  increased  facilities  for  business 
traffic.  The  j)lan  was  subsequently  mucli  modified  ; 
and  one  of  the  earliest  operations  connected  with  its  exe- 
cution was  the  clearing  away  of  a  number  of  unsightly 
liouses,  and  the  opening  of  a  spnrious  and  handsome 
thoroughfare  past  the  N  sitle  uf  the  Colk-g(>,  nov/ 
forming  Chambers  Street.  So  rajiid  was  the  progress  of 
the  work  under  the  new  sclieme,  that  in  the  course  of  a 
few  years  a  very  material  improvement  was  sliown  in 
tlie  neighbourhood  of  Netherbow  and  Higli  Street.     !St 


EDINBURGH 

Mary  Street,  already  referred  to  as  forming  originally 
part  of  an  ancient  line  of  coniniuuication  to  the  S,  was 
another  of  the  improvements  following  upon  the  scheme 
of  1S67.  It  retains,  on  the  Vi  side,  the  buildings  of 
the  old  St  JIary's  Wynd,  somewhat  altered  and  re- 
faced  ;  but  on  the  E  side  it  is  lined  with  new  and  neat 
buildings  in  the  old  Scotch  domestic  style.  Blackfriars 
Street,  running  parallel  to  St  Mary  Street,  about  150 
yards  to  the  W,  was  formed,  in  the  same  connection,  by 
the  widening  of  Blackfriars  Wynd  and  the  entire  re- 
building of  its  E  side,  and  it  now  presents  a  similar 
appearance  to  St  Mary  Street.  Jeffrey  Street,  com- 
mencing in  a  line  with  St  Mary  Street  northward,  was 
begun  early  in  1872,  and  so  far  finished  about  1876.  The 
formation  of  this  street  occasioned  the  removal  of  many 
old  and  filthy  tenements  at  the  head  of  the  old  Leith 
Wynd ;  it  follows  for  a  short  distance  the  line  of  that 
wynd,  and  then  bends  round  behind  what  is  known  as 
Ashlej^  Buildings,  and  runs  westward  to  the  S  basement 
of  North  Bridge,  opening  up  in  its  way  the  lower  ends 
of  several  old  courts  and  dense  closes.  Its  average  slope 
is  about  1  in  56  feet,  but  the  ground  it  passes  over  as 
it  turns  off  from  Leith  Wjmd  is  so  irregular  that  a  viaduct 
of  ten  arches  had  to  be  thrown  across.  This  street  is 
being  built  generally  on  its  southern  side  in  the  Scottish 
domestic  style,  the  northern  side  being  necessarily  left 
unbuilt. 

The  Bridges. — When  the  erection  of  the  New  Town 
was  resolved  upon,  the  opening  up  or  construction  of 
some  easier  means  of  communication  than  then  existed, 
became  imperatively  necessary.  Accordingly  in  1763 
the  valley  containing  the  Nor'  Loch  was  drained,  and 
on  the  21  Oct.  of  the  same  year  the  foundation  stone 
of  the  new  bridge  was  laid.  The  work,  however,  was 
not  begun  till  two  years  after,  when  through  miscalcula- 
tions of  the  builder  a  considerable  portion  of  the  in- 
completed structure  gave  way  in  Aug.  1769,  causing 
loss  of  life  and  other  damage.  This  mishap  being  re- 
paired, the  bridge  was  securely  completed  in  1772  at  a 
cost  of  about  £18,000.  It  consists  of  three  great  semi- 
circular arches  of  72  feet  span  each,  two  flanking  arches 
of  20  feet  span,  and  several  smaller  ones  concealed  at 
each  end.  The  breadth  of  the  piers  is  13|  feet  each, 
and  the  height  from  the  base  of  the  great  arches  to  the 
parapet  68  feet,  the  breadth  within  wall  originally  40 
feet  over  all  the  main  part,  widening  to  50  feet  at  the 
ends ;  the  length  of  the  open  section  being  310  feet, 
Avhilst  that  of  the  entire  thoroughfare  from  Princes 
Street  to  High  Street  is  1125  feet.  In  1876  this 
thoroughfare,  owing  to  the  greatly  increased  trafiic,  was 
widened  to  57  feet,  this  being  effected  by  side  footpaths 
over  massive  iron  brackets  and  box  girders,  which, 
though  they  detract  from  the  outward  appearance,  have 
greatly  contributed  to  the  widening  of  the  roadway  of 
the  bridge.  The  southern  extension  of  the  North  Bridge 
is  lined  with  lofty  houses  on  both  sides,  some  of  which, 
those  of  the  E  side,  namely,  belonged  to  an  ancient  close, 
the  Cap  and  Feather,  which  the  street  opened  up ; 
while  the  northern  extension  is  lined  on  its  western 
side  by  a  symmetrical  range  of  modern  houses,  which 
are  about  twice  as  high  in  rear  as  in  front,  and  are 
chiefly  occupied  as  places  of  business.  Opposite  the 
New  Buildings,  as  they  are  called,  is  the  grand  orna- 
mental mass  of  the  General  Post  Ofllce.  South  Bridge 
was  fonned  to  extend  the  thoroughfare  of  North  Bridge 
to  the  southern  districts.  It  cost,  for  purchase  of  pro- 
perty, upwards  of  £50,000 ;  for  its  o'wn  erection,  £15,000 ; 
but  the  building  areas  along  its  sides  yielded  in  return 
upwards  of  £80,000.  It  comprises  22  arches,  all  of 
which,  with  the  exception  of  one  central  arch,  are  con- 
cealed by  the  substructure  of  the  buildings,  so  that  it 
presents  the  appearance  of  an  ordinary  levelled  street. 
As  originally  edificed  there  were,  in  the  lower  stories, 
often  two  tiers  of  shops  immediately  over  one  another, 
those  in  one  tier  a  few  steps  above,  and  those  in  the 
other  twice  or  thrice  as  many  below  the  street  level. 

Cockburn  Street,  opening  from  the  N  side  of  High 
Street,  a  little  W  of  North  Bridge,  was  formed  under  a 
a  special  Act  in  1853,  and  designed  to  facilitate  com- 
31 


EDINBURGH 

munication  between  the  Old  Town  and  the  railway 
terminus  at  its  foot.  It  curves  somewhat  in  the  shape 
of  the  letter  S  over  a  total  length  of  about  260  yards  ; 
has  a  pretty  steep  slope,  yet  with  sufficiently  practicable 
gradients.  It  is  mainly  built  in  the  Scottish  style  of 
the  16th  centur)^,  and  lays  open  to  view  some  romantic 
sections  of  the  dense  masses  of  the  architecture  of  the 
ancient  closes.  It  is  somewhat  grandly  overhung  near  its 
centre  on  the  S  side  by  the  lofty  rear  of  the  Royal  Ex- 
change ;  and,  except  for  the  unsightly  gap  which  its 
upper  end  makes  in  High  Street,  has  added  consider- 
ably to  tlie  jiicturesqueness  of  the  great  N  flank  of  the 
Old  Town. 

Bank  Street  descends  about  60  yards  northward  from 
the  line  of  Lawnmarket  to  the  front  of  the  Bank  of  Scot- 
land ;  thence  it  deflects  downwai'ds  to  the  W  about  130 
yards,  and  terminates  in  an  expanding  curve  northward 
by  the  Mound,  over  the  valley  of  the  Nor'  Loch,  to 
Princes  Street.  It  retains,  in  its  uj^permost  section,  old 
buildings  which  belonged  to  closes  through  which  it  was 
carried ;  but  where  it  sweeps  westward  it  forms  a  ter- 
race which  is  overhung  by,  among  other  structures,  the 
lofty,  massive,  commanding  rear-front  of  James'  Court. 
The  view  from  this  terrace  westward  is  very  striking, 
particularly  towards  sunset  on  a  summer  evening.  George 
IV.  Bridge  extends  about  360  yards  southward  on  a  line 
with  the  upper  reach  of  Bank  Street.  Its  erection  occa- 
sioned the  demolition  of  many  picturesque  old  houses, 
and  exposed  to  view  the  rear  elevations  of  the  County 
Hall  and  the  Advocates  Library.  It  is  constructed  of 
three  splendid  open  central  groined  arches,  seven  con- 
cealed minor  arches,  and  a  great  mass  of  embankments, 
and  forms  a  spacious  thoroughfare.  The  houses  are  sub- 
stantial structures,  those  towards  the  middle  of  the  bridge 
being  of  great  elevation.  It  is  the  site  of  several  public 
buildings,  among  others,  the  county  and  sheriff  courts, 
and  the  chambers  of  the  Highland  and  Agricultural 
Societj'. 

St  Giles  Street,  a  little  to  the  E  of  the  uppermost 
section  of  Bank  Street  and  parallel  with  it,  is  of  recent 
construction,  and  affords  a  ready  approach  from  the 
New  Town  to  the  Parliament  House.  A  long  flight  of 
steps  from  it  at  the  foot  of  it  leads  to  the  Waverley 
Bridge,  and  it  contains  the  offices  of  the  Daily  Revieio 
and  the  Courant. 

The  New  Western  Approach,  striking  off  from  the  head 
of  La^vnmarket  at  a  sharp  angle,  and  skirting  on  the 
SW  the  Castle  rock,  has  a  total  length  of  about  900 
yards,  and  bears  successively  the  names  of  Johnston 
Terrace,  King's  Bridge,  and  Castle  Terrace.  It  com- 
municates, about  130  yards  from  the  E  end,  by  long 
flights  of  steps,  ^vith  the  upper  end  of  Castle  Hill,  and 
commands,  at  points,  romantic  close  views  of  the  Castle 
rock  and  surmounting  edifices.  Johnston  Terrace, 
comprising  fully  one-half  of  the  entire  western  ap- 
proach, contains,  among  other  buildings,  the  barracks 
of  the  married  soldiers  of  the  Castle  garrison,  but  is 
mainly  an  open  roadway.  King's  Bridge  occupies  a 
curve  across  a  dell  in  continuation  of  the  ravine  along 
the  S  side  of  the  wedge-shaped  hill  of  the  Old  Town  ; 
and  has,  at  the  middle  of  the  curve,  a  single  arched 
bridge,  subtended  by  high  embankments.  Castle  Ter- 
race goes  from  the  extremity  of  the  King's  Bridge  curve 
north-westward  to  Lothian  Road,  about  140  yards  S  of 
the  W  end  of  Princes  Street.  It  was  long,  like  Johnston 
Terrace,  little  else  than  an  open  roadway,  but  is  now 
adorned  on  most  of  its  SW  side,  by  very  handsome  build- 
ings. The  chief  of  these,  erected  in  1868-72  with  highly 
ornate  features  on  a  kind  of  geometric  plan,  is  faced,  along 
the  other  side,  by  rows  of  trees  and  hanging  gardens, 
and  is  winged,  on  the  SW  side,  by  several  new,  short, 
neatly  edificed  streets.  Midway  between  King's  Bridge 
and  Lothian  Road  stands  the  United  Presbyterian  Hall, 
an  account  of  which  is  given  elsewhere.  A  new  street 
connected  with  the  Improvement  Scheme  of  1867,  has 
been  cut  from  the  SE  end  of  Castle  Terrace,  across  an 
intervening  dense  suburb,  by  the  side  of  the  Cattle 
Market  to  Laui'iston,  and  contributes  materially  both  to 
facility  of  communication  and  sanitary  improvement. 

481 


EDINBURGH 

The  Cowgate  occupies  the  ravine  along  tlio  S  skirt  of 
the  main  or  wedge-shaped  hill  of  the  Old  Town,  and 
parallel  with  it.  "it  measures  about  2000  feet  in  length, 
and  is  comparatively  narrow.  Originally  an  open  road, 
broadly  fringed  with  copsewood,  connecting  HoljTood 
with  St  Cuthbert's  or  West  Church,  it  began  to  be  built 
upon,  as  a  patrician  quarter,  in  the  time  of  James  III., 
and  was  long  a  choice  residence  of  peers  and  other  men 
of  high  rank.  It  continued  up  to  last  century  even  to 
be  the  abode  of  such  distinguished  persons  as  Lord 
Minto,  and  it  contained  mansions  of  the  Bishops  of 
Dunkeld,  Cardinal  Beaton,  the  ISIarquis  of  Twceddale, 
the  first  Earl  of  Haddington,  Henry  Mackenzie  [The 
Man  of  Feeling),  Sir  Thomas  Hope,  and  Lord  Brougham's 
father,  besides  a  hall  which  was  twice  used  for  great 
national  conferences.  An  old  pile  here,  called  the 
Magdalene  Chapel,  with  a  battlemeuted  steeple,  to  the 
W  of  George  IV.  Bridge  and  conspicuous  from  it,  is 
famous  as  the  meeting-place  of  the  first  General  As- 
sembly of  the  Scotch  Church,  which  was  convened  here 
in  1578,  under  the  presidency  of  John  Knox.  It  is  now 
used  as  premises  for  the  Edinburgh  Medical  Mission. 
The  Cowgate  still  retains  some  relics  of  its  former  gran- 
deur ;  but  is  now  nearly  all  given  over  to  the  poorest  of  the 
population  :  and,  as  seen  from  the  arches  of  South  Bridge 
and  George  I Y.  Bridge,  seems  little  else  than  a  wilderness 
of  battered  walls,  ragged  roofs,  and  rickety  chimneys. 
The  march  of  city  improvement  has  lately  swept  many 
of  its  old  buildings  away,  leaving  open  spaces  or  courts. 
The  Horse  Wynd,  so  called  as  affording  an  outlet  for 
horses  and  vehicles,  extended  S  from  the  middle  of  the 
Cowgate,  the  continuation  of  it  being  still  represented 
by  the  lane  between  the  University  and  the  Industrial 
Museum  and  the  street  of  Potterrow.  It  was  one  of  the 
oldest  outlets  from  the  city  S,  and  contained  the  houses 
of  many  of  the  nobility  and  gentry,  its  vicinity  being 
the  birthplace  of  Sir  Walter  Scott.  Immediately  E  of 
and  parallel  to  it  was  the  College  Wynd. 

The  Grassmarket,  which  extends  westward  almost  on 
a  line  with  the  Cowgate,  is  a  spacious  rectangle  300 
yards  in  length.  It  is  overhung  on  the  N  and  NW  by 
the  Castle  Hill  and  Castle  rock,  which  is  here  very  pre- 
cipitous, and  on  the  S  is  subtended  by  Heriot's  Hospital 
and  grounds  ;  and  it  still  contains  not  a  few  of  its  old 
picturesque  buildings,  which  belong  to  the  city  archi- 
tecture of  the  17th  century.  It  was  constituted  into  a 
weekly  market-place  for  country  produce  in  1477,  and 
was  in  1513 — a  time  when  the  city  had  begun  to 
spread  itself  beyond  its  original  barriers — included 
Avithin  an  extension  wall.  It  opens  westward  by  two 
thoroughfares,  of  which  the  one  in  the  SAV,  called 
the  West  Port,  was  the  ancient  egress  from  the  city  on 
the  W,  and  the  scene  of  the  Burke  and  Hare  murders  in 
1828.  Its  E  end  was  the  place  of  public  execution  in 
the  persecuting  times  of  Charles  II.  and  James  VII. , 
and  the  scene  of  the  execution  of  Capt.  Porteous  by  the 
mob  in  1736.  The  socket  of  the  public  gallows  was  dis- 
covered here  at  some  dej^th  beneath  the  street  in  1869, 
and  a  St  Andrew's  cross  marks  the  spot.  Tlie  Grassmar- 
ket was,  before  the  times  of  the  railway,  the  centre  of 
the  carrier  traffic  to  and  from  all  parts  of  the  country. 
On  the  S  side  stands  a  spacious  Corn  Exchange.  The 
Candlemaker  Row,  which  branches  off  S  from  where 
the  Grassmarket  joins  the  Cowgate,  and  runs  between 
Greyfriars'  Churchyard  and  George  IV.  Bridge,  is  a 
thoroughfare  which  was  opened  up  for  traffic  with  the  S 
by  Bristo  Port  at  the  head  of  it,  and  as  such,  i)retty 
much  superseded  the  original  outlet  in  that  direction  by 
the  Horse  Wynd  and  Potterrow.  The  place  is,  as  also 
an  old  hospital  that  once  stood  on  the  site  of  Chambers 
Street  close  by,  familiar  to  all  readers  of  Dr  John  Brown's 
lUib  and  his  Friends,  though  it  is  much  changed  from 
those  days.  The  West  Bow,  already  referred  to,  wound 
upwards  from  the  SE  comer  of  the  Grassmarket  to  the 
head  of  the  Lawnmarket,  and  the  course  it  took  is 
indicated  in  a  way  by  means  of  a  flight  of  stairs.  This 
quaint  old  street  has  been  all  but  abolished  to  make 
way  for  Victoria  Street,  which  curves  up  eastward  in 
a  pretty  steep  gradient  to  George  IV.  Bridge,  and  con- 
482 


EDINBUKGH 

tains  near  its  top  some  modern  buildings  on  a  founda- 
tion far  below  its  own  level,  one  of  these  on  the  S  side 
being  a  massive  pile  in  the  old  Scottish  Baronial  style, 
erected  in  1867-68,  and  called  India  Buildings. 

Chambers  Street,  between  George  IV.  Bridge  and  South 
Bridge,  is  a  new  thoroughfare  formed  chiefl}'  in  1872-76, 
under  the  Improvement  Act  of  1867,  and  so  called  in 
honour  of  Sir  William  Chambers,  then  provost  of  the 
cit}',  the  chief  promoter  of  the  scheme.  It  extends  310 
yards  in  length,  and  has  a  general  width  of  SO  feet. 
The  construction  of  this  street  made  away  with  Adam 
Square  at  the  E  end,  Argyle  Square  near  the  centre, 
and  Bro^vn  Square  at  the  W  end,  of  North  College 
Street,  as  well  as  Horse  and  College  Wjmds  which 
opened  up  here  from  the  Cowgate.  The  two  latter  squares 
were  a  fashionable  quarter  of  the  city  before  the  erection 
of  the  New  Town,  and  they  were  originally  approached 
from  the  W  by  an  archway  or  pcnd,  which  pierced  one 
of  the  tenements  of  Candlemaker  Row.  Here  stood,  on 
the  S  side,  the  mansion  of  the  Earls  of  Minto,  after- 
wards a  surgical  hospital,  and  here,  on  the  site  of  the 
Industrial  Museum,  the  Trades'  ^Maiden  Hospital  and 
one  of  the  Independent  Chapels  erected  by  the  Haldanes 
at  the  close  of  last  century.  It  is  now  "flanked  on  the 
one  side  by  the  University  and  the  Industrial  Museum, 
and  on  the  S  by  a  Free  church,  a  Normal  School,  the 
iliuto  House  Surgical  School,  the  School  of  Arts,  and 
several  other  buildings. 

Infirmary  Street,  which  extends  eastward  from  Cham- 
bers Street,  contains  the  old  Infirmary  and  Surgeiy 
Hospitals  as  well  as  two  churches.  It  occupies  an  area 
of  270  yards  b}^  120,  and  is  famous  for  having  been  in 
ancient  times  the  site  of  Blackfriars  Monaster}*,  and  of 
the  original  High  School,  in  an  area  at  the  foot  of  it 
called  High  School  Yards.  All  this  region  is  fated  to 
undergo  some  day  soon  sweeping  changes. 

Nicolson  Street  and  Clerk  Street  continue  the  great 
thoroughfare  of  North  Bridge  and  South  Bridge,  about 
1080  yards  southward,  from  the  front  of  the  College  to 
the  commencement  of  Newington.  Nicolson  Street  was 
constructed  toward  the  end  of  last  century,  along  an 
open  tract  of  ground  belonging  to  Lady  Nicolson,  whose 
mansion  stood  on  a  spot  near  the  eastern  extremity  of 
South  College  Street.  It  extends  about  445  yards  to  an 
intersection  by  Crosscauseway  ;  is  mainly  edificcd  in  the 
plainest  Italian  style ;  and  contains  what  was  the  mansion 
of  the  eminent  chemist,  Joseph  Black,  M.D. ,  author  of 
the  theory  of  latent  heat,  and  now  belongs  to  the 
blind  asylum.  Nicolson  Square,  on  the  W  side  of  the 
street,  about  165  yards  S  of  the  College,  was  intended 
to  be  an  aristocratic  quarter,  but  it  failed  to  compete 
with  any  of  the  New  Town  Squares  ;  it  contains  a  house 
long  occupied  by  the  sixth  Earl  of  Leven,  for  many 
j'ears  Lord  High  Commissioner  to  the  General  Assembly. 
Nicolson  Square  has  been  greatly  improved  by  the  opening 
of  Marshall  Street  through  its  western  side,  and  thence 
to  Bristo  Street,  leading  right  down  into  George  Square 
through  Charles  Street.  Marshall  Street  contains  a  large 
board  school,  a  U.  P.  church,  and  a  Baptist  chapel.  The 
garden  in  the  centre  of  Nicolson  Square,  though  neat 
enough  in  itself,  has  a  bald  appearance  from  the  want 
of  some  striking  central  feature.  West  Nicolson  Street, 
a  plain  short  thoroughfare,  striking  westward  from 
Nicolson  Street,  about  130  yards  S  of  Nicolson  Square, 
was  the  residence  of  the  painter  Runciman,  probably  at 
the  time  he  received  visits  from  the  poet  Fergusson  ; 
and  the  residence  also,  in  his  early  days,  of  the  dis- 
tinguished painter,  David  AVilkie,  afterwards  Sir  David. 
Numerous  streets  lie  eastward  of  Nicolson  Street,  to 
distances  of  from  300  to  500  yards,  and  include  many 
intersections  and  one  or  two  small  squares  ;  but  all  are 
plain,  some  are  dingy,  and  none  possess  any  particular 
interest.  Clerk  Street  is  mainly  of  similar  character  to 
Nicolson  Street,  but  its  environs  are  less  crowded,  and 
its  extensions  consist  of  houses  for  most  part  of  a  better 
class  and  of  a  more  modern  type.  Clerk  Street  forms  the 
main  thoroughfare  to  the  suburb  of  Newington,  whicli  is 
being  gradually  extended  from  the  SE,  by  Echo  Bank, 
Craigmillar,  Powbum,  Blackford  Hill,  and  Grange  Loan 


EDINBURGH 

to  Morningside,  which  again  joins  on  to  Merchiston, 
and  thence  round  to  Dahy.  The  new  portions  of 
Kewington  suburb,  as  well  as  the  lands  S  of  the  Meadows 
and  those  of  "Warrender  Park,  are  being  filled  up  mainly 
by  elegant  villas,  and  streets  and  crescents,  displaying 
gi-eat  symmetry  and  good  taste,  intersected  by  wide 
open  roadways. 

Potterrow,  which  runs  parallel  on  the  W  to  Nicolson 
Street,  is,  as  already  said,  a  continuation  of  the  Old 
Horse  Wynd,  and  commences  at  the  "W  end  of  South 
College  Street.  It  has  a  length  of  about  299  yards,  l)ut 
the  street  is  narrow  and  squalid  looking,  though,  like 
other  parts,  it  has  seen  better  days,  having  been  an 
aristocratic  quarter,  and  containing,  so  late  as  1716,  the 
residence  of  the  Earl  of  Morton.  Marshall  Street, 
which  now  cuts  it  at  right  angles,  is,  in  its  western 
section,  the  site  of  Middleton's  Entry,  where  the  flaxen- 
haired  '  Chloris '  of  the  poet  Burns  lived,  and  of 
General's  Entry,  where  Viscount  Stair  and  General 
Monk  resided  ;  and  in  its  eastern  section  the  site  of  a 
court,  part  of  which  still  stands,  called  Alison  Square, 
where  Campbell  wrote  his  Pleasures  of  Hope,  and  Burns 
visited  his  Clarinda.  Charles  Street,  Avhich  leads  into 
George  Square,  W  of  Marshall  Street,  is  where  Lord 
Jeffrey  was  born,  and  whence,  by  way  of  Middleton's 
Entry  belike,  he  might  be  seen  in  schoolboy  da)'S  mov- 
ing every  morning  with  his  satchel  for  the  High  School 
Yards.  George  Square,  commencing  on  a  line  mth 
Charles  Street,  extends  about  220  yards  westward,  and 
is  of  nearl}'^  equal  length  and  breadth.  It  was  formed 
in  1766,  in  competition  with  the  scheme  then  afloat  to 
extend  a  new  town  on  the  N,  and  was,  for  many  years, 
a  highly  aristocratic  quarter,  numbering  among  its 
residents  the  Duchess  of  Gordon,  the  Countess  of 
Sutherland,  the  Countess  of  Glasgow,  Viscount  Duncan, 
Lord  President  Blair,  Henry Erskine,  and  the  fatherof  Sir 
Walter  Scott,  who  lived  in  Xo.  25.  It  is  a  spacious  square, 
surrounding  a  well-kept  enclosure  of  laAvn  and  shrub- 
bery, and  has  maintained  much  of  its  old  air  as  a  place  of 
residence,  presenting  a  striking  conti'ast  to  some  of  the 
confined,  dingy,  disagreeable  quarters  a  little  way  to  the 
E  of  it.  Buccleuch  Place,  to  the  S  of  George  Square,  was 
built  at  the  same  time,  and  contains  tall  tenements,  one 
in  the  centre  No.  15,  now  divided  into  flats,  as  they  are 
called,  having  been  used  for  balls  and  assemblies,  and  a 
flat  in  No.  18  having  ■witnessed,  in  Jeffrey's  quarters, 
the  hatching  of  the  Edinhurgh  Review. 

The  Waverley  Bridge,  which  extends  across  what  was 
the  E  end  of  the  Nor'  Loch,  from  the  foot  of  Cockburn 
Street  to  Princes  Street,  was  erected  in  connection  with 
the  North  British  railway,  to  the  station  of  which  there 
slones  down  from  it  a  broad  approach.  It  traverses  the 
space  originally  occupied  by  what  was  called  the  Little 
ilound.  At  the  N  end  of  the  Waverley  Bridge,  and  ex- 
tending between  Princes  Street  and  the  stafiou,  is  the 
Waverley  Market,  a  large  open  area  roofed  in  for  the 
sale  of  garden  produce.  The  roof  is  on  a  level  with 
Princes  Street,  and  is  laid  out  with  flowers,  offering  a 
convenient  lounge  aside  from  the  street  trafiBc.  This 
area  is  let  for  musical  promenades,  and  was  this  year 
the  scene  of  the  great  fisheries  exhibition.  Mr  Glad- 
stone held  one  of  his  great  meetings  here  in  1880, 
during  the  political  campaign  which  led  to  the  fall  of 
Lord  Beaconsfield's  administration.  The  Mound, 
which  crosses  the  valley  of  what  was  the  Nor'  Loch, 
280  yards  W  of  the  Waverley  Bridge,  was  gradually 
formed  by  deposits  of  earth  and  rubbish  dug  out  for  the 
foujidations  of  the  houses  of  the  New  Town  from 
1781  to  1830,  being  preceded  by  a  slight  pathway  for 
foot-passengers  called  '  Geordie  Boyd's  Brig,'  which 
consisted  chiefly  of  a  succession  of  steps  or  stepping- 
stones  across  the  as  yet  half-drained  loch.  It  is  com- 
puted to  contain  two  million  cart-loads  of  earth-rubbish, 
to  deposit  which  would  cost  about  £50,000  at  the  rate 
of  only  sixpence  a  load,  and  it  measures  800  feet  from 
where  it  begins  in  Bank  Street  to  where  it  joins  I'rinces 
Street.  For  long  its  main  area  was  left  open  and  let  for 
temporary  wooden  erections,  mostly  of  an  ungainly  char- 
acter, a  pavemented  footpath  and  carriage-way  running 


EDINBUBGH 

down  its  E  side.  After  the  erection  of  the  Art  Galleries 
behind  the  Royal  Institution  at  the  foot,  these  struc- 
tures were  removed,  a  broad  stairway  took  the  place  of 
the  original  footpath,  and  a  carriage-road  with  pave- 
ments swept  down  by  the  W.  It  is  pierced  by  a  tunnel 
and  flanked  by  gardens,  where  everything  is  done  that 
the  gardener's  art  can  do  to  make  up  for  the  egregious 
blunder  of  draining  the  valley. 

The  New  Town  may  be  regarded  as  divisible  into  four 
sections,  a  sou  them,  a  northern,  an  eastern,  and  a 
western.  The  southern  section  is  the  original  New 
Town,  and  was  begun  to  be  built  in  1767  and  completed 
about  1800,  chiefly  after  a  plan  by  Mr  James  Craig,  a 
nephew  of  Thomson  the  poet.  It  runs  parallel  in  its 
main  direction  with  the  High  Street,  and  terminates 
westward  opposite  the  W  extremity  of  the  Castle.  It  is 
1300  yards  in  length,  and  365  in  breadth,  and  occupies 
the  AV  of  the  broad-based  eminence  immediatelj'  to  the 
N  of  the  Loch  valley.  A  long  broad  street  terminated 
by  two  spacious  squares  runs  along  the  ridge,  and 
parallel  with  it  two  terraced  ones  looking  respectively 
N  and  S,  with  narrow  parallel  streets  between,  and 
others  of  good  width  at  right  angles,  the  whole  being  in 
outline  a  regular  parallelogram,  and  in  mass  compared  by 
Prof.  Frank  of  Wilna  '  to  a  regiment  of  soldiers  divided 
into  companies,  and  standing  three  deep. '  All  this  sec- 
tion was  originally  edificed  on  a  regular  plan  ^\■ith  houses 
rising  from  a  sunk  enclosed  area  to  a  height  of  three 
stories,  but  by  alterations,  renovations,  and  reconstruc- 
tions, especially  in  the  southern  and  central  portions,  it 
has  gradually  come  to  assume  a  great  diversity  of  ap- 
pearance. 

Princes  Street,  which  extends  along  the  S  side  of  the 
parallelogram,  and  looks  up  over  the  gardens  to  the  tall 
piles  of  the  romantic  Old  Town,  occupies  the  line  of  an 
old  country  road  called  the  Lang  Gaitt  (way),  and  after- 
wards, when  fenced  in  by  stone  walls,  the  Langdj^kes. 
It  has  of  late  years  undergone  so  many  renovations  that 
it  has  lost  nearly  all  its  originally  stiff  character,  and 
presents  now  a  rich  and  diversified  array  of  ornate  archi- 
tecture. It  has  recently  been  widened,  moreover,  as 
a  thoroughfare,  a  broad  handsome  pavement  for  the 
pedestrian  being  added  on  to  its  S  side  along  its 
entire  length.  It  is  the  principal  street  and  most 
fashionable  promenade  of  the  city,  and,  if  we  regard 
it  at  once  in  itself  and  its  surroundings,  is  perhaps  the 
finest  street  of  any  city  of  the  world.  It  presents,  on 
the  one  hand,  an  arra}'  from  end  to  end  of  handsome 
shops,  hotels,  clubs,  and  public  offices,  and  on  the  other 
avenued  walks,  interspersed  with  monuments,  of  which 
that  to  Scott  is  the  chief.  The  view  from  the  W  look- 
ing E  is  particularly  striking ;  the  bold  Castle  rock 
towers  sheer  up  on  the  right,  the  Old  Town  slopes 
grandly  down  E  of  it  till  lost  to  sight,  the  Calton  Hill 
bounds  the  view  as  you  look  straight  onward,  while  the 
whole  with  its  garden  enclosures  between  is  guarded 
beyond  by  the  blue-veiled  heights  of  Salisbury  Crags 
and  Arthur's  Seat.  The  first  glimpse  of  the  city  from 
the  W,  when  everji:hing  is  in  full  bloom,  is  a  sight 
never  to  be  forgotten  by  any  stranger  ;  the  native  eye  is 
too  accustomed  to  it  to  enjoy  the  full  spell  of  its  glory. 

St  Andrew  Square,  at  the  E  end  of  George  Street, 
which  runs  along  the  ridge  behind  Princes  Street,  was 
built  in  1772-78.  It  measures  about  170  yards  each 
way,  and  was,  when  first  built,  the  most  aristocratic 
quarter  of  the  cit}-.  It  is  now  surrounded  by  banks, 
and  insurance  and  other  public  offices,  and  contains  a 
spacious  enclosure  vnth  a  monument  in  the  centre  to 
Viscount  Melville,  which,  as  seen  from  a  distance,  tower- 
ing above  the  other  buildings,  forms  a  conspicuous 
feature  of  tlie  city.  No.  21  on  the  N  side  of  this  square 
was  the  birthplace  of  Henry  Lord  Brougham,  and  the 
house  which  stands  at  the  comer  of  South  St  David 
Street  was  the  one  in  which  David  Hume  lived  latterly, 
and  where  he  died.  George  Street  extends  westward 
nearly  J  mile,  and  is  115  feet  wide.  It  was  built 
at  first  throughout  on  one  uniform  plan,  but  this  has 
been  broken  in  upon  of  late  years,  to  the  improvement 
of  the  general  aspect,  by  the  erection  of  banks  and  pub- 

483 


EDINBURGH 

lie  offices,  and  the  decoration  of  fronts.  The  Commer- 
cial and  Union  Banks,  the  Assembly  Rooms,  ^^•ith  the 
Music  Hall  and  Freemasons'  Hall,  are  on  the  S  side  of  the 
street,  and  at  three  of  the  intersections  are  monuments 
to  George  lY.,  William  Pitt,  and  Thomas  Chalmers,  the 
Melville  Monument  being  at  its  eastern  extremity,  and 
the  Prince  Consort  Memorial  at  its  western  in  Charlotte 
St^uare,  under  the  dome  of  St  George's  Church.  No.  92 
was  for  seventeen  years  the  abode  of  Lord  Jeffrey,  and  for 
four  years  of  Lord  Cockburn  ;  No.  lOS  that  of  Sir  "Wal- 
ter Scott  in  1797  ;  and  No.  133  that  of  Sir  Henry  Rae- 
burn.  Charlotte  Square,  of  similar  extent  to  St  Andrew 
Square,  was  constructed  in  ISOO  after  designs  by  Robert 
Adam,  and  displays  an  array  of  elegant  and  sjTnme- 
trical  facades  overlooking  a  well-kept  enclosure  with  the 
Memorial  just  referred  to  in  the  centre. 

Queen  Street,  the  northern  terrace  thoroughfare  of 
the  southern  New  Town,  was  originally  built  in  the 
same  style  as  Princes  Street  and  George  Street,  and  has 
undergone  less  change  than  either  of  these.  It  contains 
at  No.  62  the  abode  of  Lord  Jeffrey  from  1S02  till  1810, 
at  No.  52  that  of  Professor  Sir  James  Simpson  ;  is  sub- 
tended on  the  N,  over  the  greater  part  of  its  length,  bj- 
pleasant  gardens,  well  sheltered  all  round  by  trees, 
and  120  yards  broad;  and  it  commands  superb  views, 
over  these  gardens  and  the  northern  New  Town,  of 
the  expanse  of  the  Forth  and  the  hills  beyond.  The 
streets  of  the  southern  New  To\\m,  which  run  from  S  to 
N,  bear  the  names,  as  you  go  W,  of  St  Andrew,  St 
David,  Hanover,  Frederick,  Castle,  Charlotte,  and  Hope 
Streets.  Built  originally  in  the  same  style  as  the  main 
streets,  they  have  lately  undergone  considerable  changes, 
particularly  those  in  the  E.  Castle  Street  is  notable  for 
containing,  at  No.  39,  the  house  which  was  inhabited 
by  Sir  Walter  Scott  from  1800  till  1826,  and  afterwards 
by  Macvey  Napier. 

The  northern  New  Town  declines  N  on  a  slope 
immediately  N  of  Queen  Sti'eet  Gardens,  and  was 
built  between  the  years  1803  and  1S22.  It  resembles 
the  southern  New  Town  in  general  outline  and  in  ar- 
rangement of  thoroughfares,  but  has  some  graceful 
peculiarities  and  considerable  superiority  of  architecture. 
It  extends  from  E  to  W,  parallel  to  the  southern  New 
Town,  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram  ;  and  is  disposed 
in  two  lateral  terraces,  a  spacious  middle  street,  two 
intermediate  parallel  streets,  two  terminal  spacious  areas, 
and  several  intersecting  streets.  The  parallelogram 
which  it  forms  is  shorter  and  broader  than  that  of  the 
southern  New  Town  ;  the  eastern  parts  of  its  terraces 
are  in  the  form  of  crescents,  its  eastern  terminal  area 
partly  crescents,  its  western  terminal  area  a  compound 
of  polygon  and  circus,  and  its  lines  of  edifices  in  great 
ranges  of  massive  symmetrical  facade.  It  still  retains 
nearly  all  its  original  arrangement  and  features.  Abcr- 
cromby  Place,  the  eastern  part  of  the  southern  terrace, 
is  a  fine  crescent  about  300  yards  long ;  and  Heriot  Row, 
the  western  part  of  that  terrace,  contains  at  No.  6  the 
house  in  which  Henry  Mackenzie  {The  Man  of  Feeling) 
spent  the  last  years  of  his  life.  Drummond  Place,  the 
eastern  terminal  area,  was  formed  around  a  mansion 
of  General  Scott,  built  about  the  middle  of  last  century, 
and  converted  at  length  into  the  headquarters  of  the 
Board  of  Customs  for  Scotland.  These  offices  were  re- 
moved to  Waterloo  Place  in  1845,  and  the  house  taken 
down  in  consequence  of  operations  xinderneath  for  the 
construction  of  a  railway  tunnel.  Great  King  Street, 
the  central  thoroughfare  from  E  to  AV,  is  so  spacious  as 
to  look  almost  like  a  rectangle  ;  is  edificed  with  ornate 
.symmetrical  ranges  of  fa(;ade,  those  on  the  one  side  cor- 
responding to  those  on  the  otlier ;  and  contains  the 
houses  of  Sir  William  Allan,  the  distinguished  painter, 
and  Sir  William  Hamilton,  the  great  Scotch  meta- 
I)hy&ician.  The  Royal  Circus,  the  western  terminal 
area,  stands  on  a  westward  slope,  across  the  main 
thoroughfare  from  the  city  to  Stockbridge  suburb.  It 
occupies,  at  one  point,  the  site  of  a  curious  ancient  grave, 
discovered  at  the  digging  of  the  foundations  in  1822,  and 
overlooks  an  ancient  village,  part  of  which  is  still  ex- 
tant, called  Silvermills,  270  yards  to  the  NE.  The 
484 


EDINBURGH 

Eoj-al  Crescent,  forming  the  eastern  part  of  the  northern 
terrace,  measures  about  200  yards  in  length  ;  continues  to 
be  but  partially  edificed  ;  and  overlooks  a  spacious  hollow 
area,  mainlj'  occupied  by  workshops,  and  by  the  ponds 
and  apparatus  of  the  Royal  Patent  Gymnasium. 

Stock-bridge. — Beyond  the  hollow  area  the  northern 
New  Town  passes  into  connection  with  the  former 
village  of  Stockbridge,  which,  with  the  neighbouring 
Silvermills  and  Canonmills,  is  all  now  within  the 
parliamentary  bounds,  lying  principally  along  both 
sides  of  the  Water  of  Leith  from  Dean  to  Warriston. 
Originally  an  unimportant  locality,  except  for  the 
flour-mills  in  its  neighbourhood,  Stockbridge  can  now 
boast  of  many  beautiful  streets,  terraces,  and  crescents, 
and  such  structures,  in  and  around,  as  Fettes  College, 
Craigleith  Poorhouse,  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution, 
the  Edinburgh  Academy,  Tanfiekl  Hall,  a  Board  School, 
Heriot  Free  School,  etc.,  which  are  all  noticed  else- 
where. Three  neat  bridges  span  what  is  now  not  so 
much  a  river  as  a  river-bed,  most  of  the  water  being 
carried  away  by  the  'lead,'  or  dam,  which  supplies  the 
motive  power  for  the  mills  on  its  banks  from  the  villages 
above  down  to  Bonnington.  The  river  is  thus  always 
a  paltry  stream,  except  in  heavy  floods,  and  was  long 
little  better  than  a  large  open  sewer,  till  this  was 
remedied  some  years  ago  by  a  sj'stem  of  sewerage  carried 
down  beneath  the  river-bed  all  the  way  to  Leith.  A 
fourth  bridge  farther  down  the  stream  crosses  it  in  con- 
nection with  the  roadway  which  leads  from  Canonmills 
to  Warriston  Crescent,  Inverleith  Row,  and  Newhaven. 
From  the  upper  bridge  the  stream  is  seen  over- 
arched by  woods  on  both  sides  above,  the  view  being 
closed  in  by  the  Dean  Bridge  and  the  high  houses  of 
Moi'ay  Place  and  Randolph  Cliff.  The  middle  bridge  of 
the  upper  three  leads — by  Raeburn  Place,  where  Sir 
Henry  lived  (1756-1823),  and  by  Comely  Bank,  a 
beautifully  situated  row  of  houses  with  flower  plots  in 
front  and  southern  exposure,  in  No.  21  of  which  Thomas 
Carl3"le  resided, — to  Fettes  College  and  to  Craigleith,  at 
the  latter  of  which  there  is  a  freestone  quarry,  one  of 
the  most  valuable  and  extensive  in  Scotland.  A  fine 
public  park  and  recreation  ground  occupies  a  gradually 
rising  slope  between  Comely  Bank  and  the  Dean.  St 
Bernard's  Crescent,  with  houses  in  good  architectural 
style,  the  central  area  of  the  crescent  being  occupied  by 
a  fine  row  of  old  trees,  Danube  Street,  Carlton  Street, 
Upper  and  Lower  Dean  Terrace,  and  Ann  Street,  bring 
the  old  village  into  close  connection  westward  with  the 
new  modern  extension  of  the  city  beyond  Dean  Biidge, 
which  is  noticed  further  on. 

The  eastern  New  To^vn  presents  a  great  diversity  of 
character.  It  absorbed  great  part  of  the  ancient  small 
burghs  of  Calton  and  Broughton,  and  the  villages  of 
Moutrie  and  Picardy,  and  spreads  over  the  eastern 
slopes  of  the  long  broad-based  hill  which  supports  the 
southern  and  northern  New  Towns,  across  the  gorge  run- 
ning north-eastward  from  the  line  of  St  Mary  Street, 
around  Calton  Hill,  and  is  in  immediate  contiguity  with 
the  southern  and  the  northern  New  Towns.  St  James 
Square,  on  the  tabular  crown  of  the  hill  adjacent  to 
the  E  end  of  the  southern  New  Town,  occupies  the 
site  of  the  ancient  village  and  mansion  of  Moutrie,  the 
scene  of  some  tragical  events  in  the  civil  war  of  1572. 
It  was  built  prior  to  St  Andrew  Square,  on  a  private 
plan,  with  houses  much  plainer  than  those  of  any  of  the 
squares  or  crescents  to  the  W.  Its  piles  soar  aloft 
above  their  surroundings  in  romantic  masses,  which,  in 
some  views  from  the  NE,  appear  almost  as  striking  as 
the  structures  on  the  Castle  rock  ;  and  it  contains,  at 
No.  30,  the  rooms  in  which  the  poet  Pnu-ns  spent  the 
winter  of  1787-88,  and  where  he  wrote  his  letters  to 
'Clarinda.'  Leith  Street,  deflecting  from  the  E  end 
of  Princes  Street,  slopes  about  130  yards  to  the  NE,  and 
forms  part  of  the  main  line  of  communication  between 
Edinburgh  and  Leith.  It  is  entirely  a  business  thorough- 
fare, crowded  with  traffic,  inconveniently  narrow,  and 
disagreeably  steep,  and  possesses,  on  its  NW  side,  what 
is  called  a  terrace,  a  one-storied  row  of  shops  projecting 
from  a  line  of  upper  stories,  with  a  broad  pathway  along 


EDINBUEGH 

the  summit  of  the  row.  At  the  foot  of  Leith  Street,  on 
the  right,  a  road  emerges  from  what  is  called  the  Low 
Caltou,  spanned  by  the  arch  of  Regent  Bridge,  50  feet 
•wide,  and  about  50  feet  high.  It  was  anciently  the  line 
of  either  a  Caledonian  road  or  a  Roman  road,  or  first 
one  and  then  the  other,  from  the  southern  parts  of  Scot- 
land to  the  Filth  of  Forth ;  and  it  was  a  main  outlet 
from  the  eastern  parts  of  the  old  city  to  the  N  prior  to 
the  construction  of  the  North  Bridge.  Greenside  Street, 
or  Greenside  Place,  prolonged  about  290  yards  further 
NE  than  the  termination  of  Catherine  Street,  at  the  top 
of  this  road,  takes  its  name  from  an  extensive  rapid 
slope  in  its  rear,  down  to  the  skirts  of  Calton  Hill, 
which  is  now  all  covered  with  lanes  and  factories  ;  and 
has  several  narrow  openings  leading  down  to  the  lanes. 
This  slope,  which,  till  near  the  end  of  last  century,  was 
clothed  with  grass,  and  literally  a  'gi'een  side,'  served, 
from  the  time  of  James  II.,  as  an  arena  for  tournaments, 
wapeushaws,  athletic  sports,  and  dramatic  exhibitions. 
Even  then  its  sides  were  arranged  in  successive  ascents, 
somewhat  like  the  tiers  of  an  amphitheatre,  and  the 
spot  was  used  also  as  a  place  of  capital  punishment  of 
those  convicted  of  heresy  and  witchcraft.  Shakesjieare 
Square  stood  on  the  E  side  of  North  Bridge,  at  the 
eastern  extremity  of  Princes  Street.  It  was  erected  about 
the  same  time  as  the  North  Bridge,  and  formed  three 
sides  of  a  small  quadrangle,  edificed  on  the  E  and  N.  It 
contained,  with  frontage  to  the  N,  the  Theatre  Royal,  and 
was  demolished  partly  about  1816  at  the  formation  of 
AYaterloo  Place,  and  mainly  about  1862  at  the  construc- 
tion of  the  new  General  Post  Office,  which  occupies  the 
greater  part  of  its  site. 

Waterloo  Place,  striking  eastward  on  a  line  with 
Princes  Street,  was  planned  in  1815,  and  opened  in  1819. 
Its  construction  occasioned  the  demolition  of  part  of  the 
ancient  burgh  of  Calton,  the  removal  of  part  of  Calton 
buryiug-gi'ound,  and  the  excavation  of  about  100,000 
cubic  yards  of  rock.  It  extends  about  230  yards  east- 
ward, to  a  shoulder  of  Calton  Hill ;  crosses  the  ravine 
of  Low  Calton  b}'  Regent  Bridge,  surmounted  by  colon- 
nades ;  and  is  mainly  edificed  -with  substantial,  lofty, 
S}Tumetrical  houses,  showing  Corinthian  pilasters  and 
other  Grecian  decorations ;  but  toward  the  eastern 
end  has  frontage  only  of  lofty  retaining  wall.  Regent 
Road  commences  on  a  line  with  Waterloo  Place, 
makes  curves  east-south-eastward  and  east-north-east- 
ward, and  then  piroceeds  entirely  in  the  latter  direction. 
It  has  a  total  length  of  about  1050  yards,  being  all 
formed  in  the  way  of  terrace  along  the  declivitj'  of 
Calton  Hill ;  the  Prison  is  on  its  S  side  adjacent  to 
Waterloo  Place,  and  the  High  School  on  its  N  side  a 
little  further  E,  the  monument  to  Burns  and  the  New 
Caltou  burying-ground  being  farther  on  on  the  right. 
It  commands,  from  its  eastern  reaches,  picturesque 
views  over  Canongate  and  Holyrood,  and  forms,  while 
it  leads  to  the  new  and  rapidly-increasing  suburb  of 
Norton  Park,  the  main  carriage  communication  to 
Portobello,  Musselbui-gh,  and  other  places  in  the  E. 
Jacob's  Ladder  strikes  olf  from  Regent  Road,  opposite 
the  High  School,  and  descends  a  steep  declivity  to  North 
Back  of  Canongate,  serving  as  a  short  cut  to  pedestrians. 
It  comprises  two  mutually  converging  and  then  diverg- 
ing lines  of  descent,  the  latter  mostly  by  flights  of 
steps;  and  commands  from  its  summit,  but  still  better 
from  points  a  little  way  down,  very  striking  views  of 
the  buildings  and  the  flanks  of  the  E  extremity  of  the 
valley  of  the  Nor'  Loch.  Regent  Terrace,  Carlton 
Terrace,  and  Royal  Terrace,  the  iirst  turning  off  from 
the  N  side  of  Regent  Road  immediately  E  of  the 
High  School,  sweep  in  a  prolonged  terrace-line  round 
the  slope  of  Calton  Hill  to  an  aggregate  length  of  about 
1200  yards.  They  consist  of  ranges  of  elegant  self-con- 
tained houses,  those  of  Royal  Terrace  being  adorned  with 
Grecian  colonnades,  and  they  command,  all  round,  ver}' 
picturesque  views,  commencing  with  Canongate,  Salis- 
bury Crags,  and  Holyrood  on  the  S,  and  ending  with  the 
waters  of  the  Firth  of  Forth  and  hills  of  Fife  on  the  N. 

Blenheim  Place,  at  the  extremity  of  Royal  Terrace 
on  the  N,  affords  a  good  instance  of  the  remarkable 


EDINBURGH 

inequality  between  the  front  and  the  rear  heights  of 
many  of  the  edifices  in  Edinburgh,  its  houses  rising 
only  one  story  above  the  pavement-level  in  front,  but 
rising  four  stories  in  the  rear.  London  Road,  which, 
striking  at  an  acute  angle  from  the  lower  end  of  Blen- 
heim Place,  goes  eastward,  and  is  joined  at  a  point 
about  9G0  yards  from  its  commencement  by  the 
thoroughfare  from  Regent  Road,  skirts  all  the  N  base  of 
Calton  Hill  along  the  margin  of  a  slightly  inclined 
plain  descending  northward  to  Leith,  and  which  is  now 
occupied  by  a  number  of  new  streets.  It  is  edificed  over 
about  200  yards  of  the  N  side  of  its  W  end  by  the  hand- 
some houses  of  Leopold  Place,  with  openings  into  the 
elegant  but  unfinished  lines  of  Windsor  Street  and  Hill- 
side Crescent,  and  is  becoming  a  main  approach  to  a  ris- 
ing suburb  to  the  E  of  the  city.  It  was  the  latest  outlet 
from  the  city  to  London,  and  in  mail-coach  times,  before 
the  railways  were  constructed,  a  place  of  busy  traffic. 

Leith  Walk,  deflecting  from  the  lower  end  of  Catherine 
Street,  runs  north-north-eastward  to  South  Leith,  measur- 
ing aliout  5  furlongs  in  length  to  the  burgh  boundary 
at  Pilrig  Street,  and  nearly  the  same  thence  onward  to 
Leith.  It  was  originally  an  unformed  track  across  an 
open  plain,  which  was  turned  into  a  line  of  defensive 
earthwork,  with  trench  and  parapet,  in  1650,  by 
General  Leslie,  to  oppose  the  approach  of  Cromwell,  and 
was  transmuted,  after  the  Restoration,  into  a  level  foot- 
way, 20  feet  broad,  in  which  capacity  it  assumed  the 
name  of  Leith  Walk.  At  the  opening  of  the  North 
Bridge  in  1772,  it  was  converted  into  a  carriage-way, 
and  at  a  later  period  formed  part  of  a  contemplated  ex- 
tension of  the  city  northward,  from  London  Road  to 
Leith,  which  collapsed  with  the  general  building  schemes 
for  the  New  Town  about  the  j-ear  1820.  The  consequence 
was,  that  it  was  only  partially,  fitfully,  and  irregularly 
edificed,  and,  till  about  1867,  had  little  more  than 
single  lines  of  houses.  It  bears,  in  sections  of  its  upper 
parts,  the  separate  names  of  Greenside  Place,  Baxter's 
Place,  Elm  Row,  Union  Place,  Antigua  Street,  Gaj-field 
Place,  and  Haddington  Place,  where  it  is  of  very 
great  width  ;  and,  from  end  to  end,  is  an  airy 
thoroughfare,  and  a  busy  line  of  traffic  between 
Edinburgh  and  Leith.  Gayfield  Square,  ofl:'  the  W  side 
of  Leith  Walk,  about  380  yards  from  its  head,  is  a 
small  plain  quadrangle,  with  an  enclosed  pleasure- 
ground,  and  contains  a  house  in  which  Lord  Provost 
Mackenzie,  in  1819,  entertained  Prince  Leopold  of  Saxe- 
Coburg,  afterwards  King  of  the  Belgians.  A  sand-hill 
of  small  height,  but  conspicuous  in  the  midst  of  the  cir- 
cumjacent plain,  stood  on  the  W  side  of  Leith  Walk, 
440  yards  NNE  of  the  site  of  Gayfield  Square,  which, 
under  the  name  of  Gallowlee,  was  the  site  of  a  per- 
manent gallows,  where  the  bodies  of  criminals  used 
after  their  execution  to  hang  for  a  longer  or  shorter 
period  exposed  in  chains.  This  hill  was  removed 
piecemeal  to  form  mortar  for  the  building  of  the  New 
Town,  and  gave  place  to  a  hollow,  now  partly  traversed 
by  the  northward  line  of  the  North  British  railway  and 
partly  by  new  streets.  A  tract  on  the  same  side  of  the 
AYalk,  above  the  Gallowlee,  was  the  site  of  the  Edin- 
burgh Botanic  Gardens  for  many  years  prior  to  1824. 
The  gardens  stood,  before  they  were  transferred  to  Leith 
Walk,  in  the  hollow  behind  Shakespeare  Square,  now 
occupied  by  the  North  British  railway,  and  were  known 
as  the  Physic  Gardens. 

Broughton  Street,  striking  northward  from  the  head 
of  Leith  Walk,  descends,  with  varying  slope,  to  the 
northern  extremity  of  what  was  the  burgh  of  Brougliton, 
and  is  a  tolerably  well-built  business  thoroughfare. 
York  Place,  striking  from  Broughton  Street  at  riglit 
angles  about  80  yards  N  of  the'hcad  of  Leith  Walk, 
goes  westward  into  line  with  Queen  Street.  It  measures 
about  340  yards  in  length,  and  is  a  very  spacious  and 
well-built  street.  It  contains  houses  which  were  in- 
habited by  Sir  Henry  Raeburn,  Francis  Horner,  Dr 
John  Abercromby,  Dr  George  Combe,  and  other  dis- 
tinguished persons.  Picardy  Place,  eastward  in  exten- 
sion of  York  Place,  was  the  site  of  the  village  of  Picardy, 
built  by  French  refugees  from  the  province  of  Picardy, 

485 


EDINBURGH 

after  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes  in  16S5,  and 
contains  the  house  in  which  the  famous  wit,  John 
Clerk,  Lord  Eldin,  lived  and  died.  There  are  several 
streets  to  the  X,  running  parallel  \\*ith  York  Place,  with 
more  or  less  handsomely  built  houses,  occupied  by  well- 
to-do  people,  but  these,  except  in  one  or  two  of  their 
edifices  to  be  noticed  afterwards,  do  not  call  for  any 
special  account. 

The  western  section  of  the  New  Town  is  contiguous 
to  the  southern  and  the  northern  sections.  It  is  sepa- 
rated by  the  Water  of  Leith  from  recent  large,  elegant 
extensions,  between  Stockbridge  and  the  Dean,  and 
spreads  south-westward,  from  the  SW  comer  of  the 
soutliern  section  of  the  New  Town,  to  an  extent  of 
about  1000  yards  by  600.  It  approaches,  on  the  S  and 
the  SW,  Fountainbridge  and  Dairy,  and,  with  com- 
paratively small  exception,  consists  entirely  of  regular, 
airy,  elegant  places,  crescents,  and  streets.  Moray 
Place,  which  is  entered  from  the  line  of  Heriot  Row  by 
Darnaway  Street,  was  built  in  1S22  and  following 
years.  It  forms  a  duodecagon,  or  twelve-sided  area, 
about  220  yards  in  diameter,  and  exhibits  uniform 
sjTnmetrical  confronting  facades,  adorned  at  regular 
intervals  with  massive  attached  Doric  columns.  It 
contains,  at  No.  24,  the  house  which  was  the  last  town 
residence  of  Lord  Jelfre)',  and  has  a  central,  ornate, 
enclosed  pleasure-ground.  Doune  Terrace  and  Glou- 
cester Place,  on  a  curving  descent  from  the  N  side  of 
Moray  Place,  are  charming  short  thoroughfares,  and  the 
latter  contains  the  house  which  was  occupied  by  John 
Wilson,  and  where  he  died.  Great  Stuart  Street,  open- 
ing from  the  WSW  side  of  Moray  Place,  extends  about 
270  yards  to  the  WSW  ;  expands,  in  its  central  part, 
into  the  double  crescent  of  Ainslie  Place,  with  enclosed 
ornamental  shrubbery ;  and  is  all  regularly  and  very 
elegantly  edihced.  Randolph  Crescent  is  entered  at  the 
west-south-western  extremity  of  Great  Stuart  Street, 
forms  a  semicircle  on  a  chord  of  about  140  yards,  is  all 
beautifully  edificed,  and  has  an  enclosed  shrubbery, 
with  a  curious  group  of  old  trees.  These  thoroughfares, 
from  iloray  Place  to  Randolph  Crescent,  stand  on  what 
was  a  finely  wooded  tract,  which  belonged  to  the  Earl  of 
Moray,  and  bore  the  name  of  iloray  Park.  They  were 
all  constructed  on  a  plan  by  Gillespie  Graham,  and  are 
regarded  by  some  critics  as  the  beau-ideal  of  a  fashionable 
city  quarter  ;  by  others  as  '  beautifully  monotonous  and 
magnificently  dull. '  Theycommand,  from  as  many  of  their 
windows  as  face  the  W,  very  splendid  extensive  views  ; 
are  subtended,  on  that  side,  by  gardens  and  shrubberies 
on  a  steep  declivity  which  slopes  down  to  the  bank  of 
the  Water  of  Leith.  Some  think  that  they  shoidd  have 
been  built  in  terraces  and  crescents  with  frontages  toward 
the  distant  view.  Queensferry  Street,  striking  at  an  acute 
angle  from  the  western  extremity  of  Princes  Street,  runs 
about  250  j-ards  north-westward  to  the  chord  of  Ran- 
dolph Crescent,  and  is  mainly  a  business  thoroughfare. 
Randolph  Cliff  lines  the  NE  side  of  the  thoroughfare 
from  Randolph  Crescent  to  Dean  Bridge,  and  directly 
surmounts  the  rocky  steeps  of  the  Water  of  Leith 
ravine.  Lynedoch  Place  strikes  at  an  acute  angle  from 
the  north-western  extremity  of  Queensferry  Street, 
extends  about  220  yards  to  the  WNW,  and  is  a  well- 
edificed  terrace. 

Dean. — The  new  extension  from  the  north-western 
section  of  the  New  Town  lies  across  Dean  Bridge,  and 
comprises  a  number  of  streets,  crescents,  and  terraces 
of  a  highly  ornate  character,  built  upon  the  slopes 
declining  E  to  Stockbridge,  and  on  the  high  grounds 
overlooking  on  the  W  the  ancient  villages  of  Dean  and 
Water  of  Leith.  The  Dean  receives  its  name  from  a  little, 
oM-fashioned,  confused-looking  village,  lying  secjues- 
tered  in  a  deep  ravine  on  the  banks  of  the  Water  of 
Leith,  westward  from  Dean  Bridge,  from  the  S  end  of 
which  it  is  reached  by  a  rai)id  slope.  This  village 
exi.sted  in  the  time  of  David  I.,  as  is  plain,  from  mills 
belonging  to  it  being  among  the  grants  conveyed  in  his 
charter  to  Holyrood  Abbey,  and  it  still  contains 
some  old  cottages  of  the  17tli  century,  as  well  as  old 
flour-mills  and  other  buildings,  on  the  left  side ;  those 
486 


EDINBURGH 

on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  stream,  across  a  very  old 
single-arched  bridge,  and  on  the  steep  rising  road  lead- 
ing to  Dean  Cemetery  and  Queensferry  Road,  being 
mixed  up  with  others  of  a  more  modern  date.  This 
road  formed  the  old  route  westward  to  Queensferry  till 
the  building  of  Dean  Bridge.  The  village  spreads 
stragglingly  upwards  from  the  hollow  into  connection 
with  the  elegant  crescentsand  streets  of  the  new  extension, 
to  which,  however,  this  bridge  is  the  direct  approach. 
The  cemetery  of  Dean  was  formed,  in  1845,  on  the  site 
and  grounds  of  Dean  House,  a  curious  old  mansion  built 
in  1614,  and  long  the  family  residence  of  the  Nisbets  of 
Dean,  and  afterwards  of  John  Learmouth,  Esq.,  the 
gentleman  who  built  Dean  Bridge.  The  cemetery  is 
very  tastefully  laid  out,  still  retains  many  of  the  old 
trees,  and  has  terraced  walks  on  the  slopes  leading  down. 
to  the  river,  a  considerable  extension  to  the  grounds 
being  made  in  1871-72,  and  measuring  1000  feet  by  80. 
It  has  within  it  many  beautiful  monuments,  and  a 
number  of  distinguished  people  have  found  their  last 
resting-place  here,  among  whom  may  be  mentioned  Sir 
William  Allan,  David  Scott,  W.  H.  Playfair,  Alexander 
Russell,  Professors  Forbes,  Wilson,  and  Aytoun,  Lords 
Jeffrey,  Cockburn,  and  Rutherford,  and  many  local 
celebrities.  In  1881  a  beautiful  memorial  cross  was 
erected  here  to  the  memory  of  Lieut.  Irving,  one  of  the 
officers  of  H.  M.  ship  Terror,  lost  in  the  Ifranklin  ex- 
pedition in  search  of  the  North- West  Passage,  which  left 
this  country  in  1845.  North  of  Dean  Bridge  is  Trinity 
Episcopal  Church,  built  in  1839,  after  designs  by  John 
Henderson.  It  is  an  elegant  building  in  the  Gothic 
stjde,  with  nave  and  aisles,  and  a  square  tower,  and  has 
also  a  small  cemetery  of  its  own.  Still  further  westward 
is  Dean  Established  Church,  built  in  1836,  a  plain 
cruciform  edifice  with  a  belfry.  Dean  Free  Church,  at 
the  S  end  of  the  bridge,  is  a  very  ])lain  building. 
The  Orphan  Hospital,  Stewart's  and  John  Watson's 
Hospitals,  are  near  at  hand.  Dean  is  now  a  quoad  sacra 
pai-ish  in  the  presbytery  of  Edinburgh,  but  was  for- 
merly a  chapel  of  ease.  The  Edinburgh  School-Board 
has  a  fine  school  at  Dean,  built  at  a  cost  of  more  than 
£6000,  having  accommodation  for  450  scholars,  and 
with  spacious  playgrounds. 

Dean  Bridge,  crossing  from  the  end  of  Randolph 
Cliff  and  Lynedoch  Place,  over  the  Water  of  Leith,  to 
the  new  extension  of  Dean,  is  a  very  handsome  struc- 
ture. It  was  built  in  1832  after  designs  by  Telford,  has 
four  arches  each  96  feet  in  span,  measures  447  feet  in 
length  and  39  in  breadth  between  parapets,  and  rises  to 
the  height  of  106  feet  above  the  rocky  bed  of  the  stream 
below.  The  footpaths  on  each  side  are  on  arches  of 
greater  radius  than  those  of  the  roadway,  and  have  the 
appearance  of  being  merely  attached  to  the  main  build- 
ing. The  bridge  commands  very  extensive  views  N  and 
NE  down  the  Water  of  Leith  and  far  over  the  Firth  of 
Forth  to  the  hills  of  Fife.  In  the  valley  below  the 
bridge,  and  close  to  the  footpath  leading  from  Water  of 
Leith  village  to  Stockbridge,  is  an  open  circular  mimic 
temple,  with  a  statue  of  Hygeia  under  its  vault,  built 
by  Lord  Gardenstone  in  1790  over  St  Bernard's  mineral 
well,  the  water  of  which  is  sulphureous,  of  a  similar 
nature  to  the  waters  of  iloffat  and  Harrogate  AVells. 
From  the  river-bed  at  this  point  there  extend  rapidly 
rising  slopes  on  both  sides,  which  have  been  beautifully 
terraced  and  laid  out  with  walks,  lawns,  and  shrub- 
beries. 

A  parallelogram  of  streets  and  places  extends  south- 
westward  from  the  flank  of  Queensferry  Street  and  the 
extremity  of  Princes  Street.  It  measures  about  480 
yards  by  380  ;  consists  chiefly  of  Chester  Street,  Melville 
Street,  Alva  Street,  Maitland  Street,  and  Athole  Place 
in  direction  from  NE  to  SW,  and  of  Stafford  Street, 
Walker  Street,  and  Manor  Place  in  direction  from  NW 
to  SE.  It  was  built  mainly  about  the  same  time  as  the 
Moray  Place  group,  but  good  part  of  it  aliout  1863-69, 
and  Is  nearly  all  an  aristocratic  quarter,  in  some  parts 
less  elegant  than  the  Moray  Place  district,  but  in  others 
more  so.  It  includes,  in  the  line  of  Maitland  Street,  a 
beautiful   expansion   in   the   form  of  two   confronting 


EDINBURGH 

crescents — Coates  Crescent  and  Athole  Crescent,  with 
enclosed  shrubberies,  and  a  row  of  stately  trees.  This 
being  at  one  time  the  approach  by  road  from  Glasgow 
and  other  places  in  the  W  of  Scotland,  it  was  here  many 
a  stranger  received,  not  it  might  be  without  some  sensa- 
tion of  surprise,  his  first  impressions  of  the  architecture 
of  Eilinburgh.  Melville  Street,  running  parallel  to 
Maitland  Street,  about  200  yards  to  the  NW,  contains 
houses  which  were  occupied  by  Dr  Andrew  Thomson 
of  St  George's  Church,  Dr  David  Welsh,  the  historian 
Tytler,  and  Dr  Candlish ;  and  Manor  Place,  crossing 
the  SAV  end  of  Melville  Street,  contains,  on  its  NE 
side,  a  house  which  was  occupied  by  the  distinguished 
authoress,  Mrs  Grant  of  Laggan.  Rutland  Sipiare,  a 
small,  neat,  aristocratic  quadrangle,  lies  a  little  SE  of 
Maitland  Street ;  and  Rutland  Street,  also  neatly  built, 
and  originally  akin  to  the  Square,  leads  from  it  to  a 
convergence  of  thoroughfares  at  Princes  Street,  but  was 
partly  demolished  in  1869  by  clearances  for  the  Cale- 
donian station.  An  area,  partly  SW  and  partly  NW  of 
the  parallelogram  terminating  in  Manor  Place,  was  laid 
out  in  years  subsequent  to  1864  for  a  western  extension 
of  the  city,  and  is  now  being  extensively  covered  with 
elegant  houses.  The  chief  places  in  it  are  West  Chester 
Street,  Palmerston  Place,  Lansdowne  Crescent,  Grosvenor 
Cre.scent,  Grosvenor  Place,  Coates  Gardens,  Magdala 
Crescent,  Belgrave  Crescent,  Elgin  Street,  Burns  Terrace, 
Buccleuch  Crescent,  Douglas  Crescent,  and  Argyle  Cres- 
cent. Most  are  in  styles  of  elegance  vying  with  one 
another  and  with  the  best  of  the  earlier  portions  of  the 
l^Tew  Town  ;  and  it  is  proposed,  for  easy  communication 
with  the  left  bank  of  the  Water  of  Leith,  to  erect  a  new 
bridge  from  the  N  end  of  Magdala  Crescent  to  a  point  in 
Bells  Mills  road  opposite  the  Orphan  Hospital.  Another 
extension  arose  contemporaneously  with  this,  which 
nearly  adjoins  it  on  the  SW,  extending  southerly  to 
the  Merchiston  district.  It  includes  crescents,  places, 
and  streets,  called  Caledonian  Crescent,  Road,  and 
Place,  OrweU  Terrace,  West  End  Place,  etc.,  reaching 
out  as  far  W  as  Tynecastle,  and  consists,  in  great  degree, 
of  working-men's  houses.  A  considerable  aggregate  of 
streets  and  places  occupies  a  triangular  area  between 
Lothian  Road,  West  Maitland  Street,  and  Dairy,  but 
passes  into  junction  on  the  S  with  Fountainbridge,  and 
these  are  not  of  a  character  to  challenge  detailed  notice. 
Morningside. — This  suburb  adjoins  the  south-western 
extremity  of  the  city,  and  occupies  generally  a  south- 
ward slope,  extending  from  the  breezy  Bruntsfield  Links 
to  the  foot  of  the  Braid  and  Blackford  Hills,  on  which 
it  looks  out.  It  comprised  for  long  only  a  main  street 
of  various  character  descending  southward,  and  leading 
to  that  point  on  the  'furzy  hills  of  Braid,'  whence 
Scott  took  his  well-known  description  of  the  city, 
which  appears  in  Marmion.  This  main  road  has  now 
a  great  many  branching  streets  and  crescents  of  fine 
and  ornate  character,  running  eastward  to  Grange  and 
Newington,  and  westward  by  Merchiston  to  Dairy, 
the  occupants  of  these  having  been  generally  drawn  to 
the  district  by  its  mild  climate,  contesting,  as  it  does, 
with  Inveresk  the  fame  of  being  the  Montpelier  of  the 
E  of  Scotland,  and  attracting  many  summer  residents 
and  invalids.  At  the  bottom  of  the  slope  runs  the 
Jordan  Burn,  which  here  skirts  the  foot  of  the  hills,  and 
fences  the  lands  of  '  Canaan '  and  Canaan  House.  Several 
buildings  flank  the  main  street,  among  these  the  Lunatic 
Asylum  at  the  foot  westward  ;  Established,  Free,  U.P., 
and  Episcopalian  churches,  the  Morningside  Athenseum, 
etc.,  at  other  points.  The  Established  church,  on 
the  E  side  of  the  main  street,  is  a  handsome 
building  with  a  spire,  erected  in  1837  after  designs 
by  John  Henderson.  Originally  a  chapel  of  ease  to 
St  Cuthbert's,  it  is  now  a  quooxl  sacra  church.  The 
Free  church  stands  a  little  further  N  on  the  W, 
being  erected  originally  in  1844,  but  rel)uilt  and 
enlarged  in  1874  at  a  cost  of  more  than  £3000.  It  is 
now  a  neat  structure  in  Early  Pointed  style  with  tower 
and  spire  130  feet  high.  The  original  U.P.  church  is  a 
neat  edifice  built  about  1860,  but  being  found  too  small 
for  the  wants   of  the   congregation   was  sold  in  1881, 


EDINBURGH 

and  has  been  interiorly  altered  for  the  Momingsido 
Athenreum ;  a  new  and  larger  edifice  of  Norman 
t}'pe,  with  square  tower,  nave,  aisles,  and  transepts, 
having  been  erected  on  a  neighbouring  site.  The  Epis 
copalian  chapel  is  in  the  French  Gothic  of  the  13th 
century  ;  was  built  mainly  in  1876,  at  a  cost  of  between 
£10,000  and  £11,000,  from  designs  by  Hippolyte  J. 
Blanc  ;  and  has  nave,  transepts,  chancel,  an  elegant 
spire,  and  vestry.  In  a  road  running  parallel  to 
the  E  called  Whitehouse  Loan  is  St  Margaret's  Con- 
vent, established  in  1835,  an  educational  institu- 
tion and  nunnery  of  the  Roman  Catholics,  and  having 
within  its  grounds  a  small  but  handsome  chapel  de- 
signed by  Gillespie  Graham.  The  whole  district  here 
was  anciently  forest-land,  known  as  the  Boroughmuir, 
and  was  the  scene  of  a  desperate  battle  in  1336  between 
a  Scottish  army  under  the  Earls  of  Moray  and  March 
and  a  body  of  foreign  mercenary  troops  under  Count 
Guy  of  Namur,  who  were  on  their  way  to  reinforce  the 
army  of  Edward  III.,  then  encamped  at  Perth.  A  road 
leading  westward  past  the  S  wall  of  the  Established 
church,  being  hid  by  higher  grounds  on  the  N  from  the 
view  of  any  part  of  Edinburgh,  was  anciently  the  route 
taken  by  military  forces  stealthily  approaching  or  retir- 
ing from  the  city,  and  was  that  used  by  Prince  Charles 
Edward's  army  in  1745  when  they  made  their  detour 
round  the  city  to  Arthm-'s  Seat.  On  a  slope  just  above 
the  Jordan  Burn  is  the  site  of  the  ancient  chapel  of  St 
Roque,  and  in  the  wall  enclosing  the  Established  church 
is  fijced  what  is  known  as  the  Bore  Stane,  a  large  unhewn 
block  of  red  sandstone,  in  which  the  royal  standard  was 
planted,  by  a  iore  or  hollow  in  it,  at  the  gathering  of 
the  Scottish  army  previous  to  the  disaster  of  Flodden 
Field  in  1513.  About  a  mile  S  at  the  entrance  to 
Mortonhall  is  another  stone,  of  probably  similar  intent, 
sometimes  confounded  with  it,  called  the  Hare  {i.e., 
army)  Stane.  Churchhill  House  in  Churchhill,  was 
built  by  Dr  Chalmers,  and  occupied  by  him  in  his 
latter  years.  The  Judge  Lord  Gardenstone,  and  Pro- 
fessor James  Syme,  the  eminent  surgeon,  also  lived  and 
died  in  this  district. 

On  the  Colinton  road,  W  from  the  main  line  of  Morn- 
ingside a  short  distance,  is  the  ancient  baronial  fortalice 
of  Merchiston  Castle,  datijig  from  the  14th  or  15th  cen- 
tury, a  principal  feature  in  which  is  a  square  tower, 
with  a  projection  on  one  side.  Within  the  battlement 
in  accordance  with  an  ancient  Scottish  fashion,  a  smaU 
building  with  a  steep  roof  rises  above  the  tower.  This 
tower,  as  in  other  instances,  is  adorned  with  notched 
gables  and  iianking  turrets,  which  much  enhance  the 
picturesque  effect  of  the  building.  The  castle  belonged 
from  ancient  times  to  the  Napier  family,  three  members 
of  which  were  successively  lord  provosts  of  the  city  in 
the  times  of  James  II.  and  James  III.,  and  another  the 
illustrious  John  Napier,  the  inventor  of  logarithms,  who 
was  born  here  in  1550.  The  castle  figured  prominently 
as  a  fortified  place  of  defence  in  the  '  Douglas  Wars ' 
and  the  civil  strifes  of  the  time  of  Queen  Mary.  It  still 
gives  the  title  of  Baron  Merchiston  in  the  Scottish 
peerage  to  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  family  of 
Napier ;  but  the  castle  has  received  several  modern  ad- 
ditions, and  is  now  used  as  a  private  boarding  school  for 
young  gentlemen. 

Architecture— The  styles  of  building  throughout  the 
city  have,  in  some  degree,  been  incidentally  indicated 
already,  but  they  exhibit  such  great  diversities  and 
striking  contrasts,  that  some  notice  in  detail  is  desir- 
able. The  arcliitectures  of  the  New  Town  and  the  Old, 
considered  in  the  aggregate,  both  in  themselves  and 
their  groupings,  may  be  characterised  as  in  the  one  case 
pedantically  symmetrical,  and  in  the  other  romantically 
irregular,  and  exhibit  a  remarkable  contrast.  This 
strikes  one  everywhere;  whether  in  the  E,  where  the 
terraces  of  the  New  Town  on  the  face  of  the  Calton 
Hill  look  down  upon  the  masses  of  the  Old,  huddled 
confusedly  together  in  the  cliff-screened  hollow,  or  in 
the  middle,  where  the  two  towns  directly  confront  each 
other  on  a  common  level  with  only  the  Nor"  Loch  valley 
Ivinf  between  ;  or  in  the  W,  where,  from  the  streets  and 
-     °  487 


EDINBURGH 

squares  and  vistas  of  the  New,  you  look  up  to  the  soar- 
ing structures  of  the  Old,  beetling  far  aloft  in  broken 
sky-line,  and  appearing,  in  certain  states  of  weather,  as 
if  they  belonged  to  a  city  in  the  clouds.  The  contrasts 
in  detail,  among  parts  of  the  Old  Town,  and  even  the 
New,  themselves  are  numerous  and  striking.  Those  in 
the  Old  Tovra,  indeed,  have  been  largely  diminished  by 
the  demolition  that  has  been  going  on  of  late  for  modern 
street  extension,  and  are  to  be  met  with  mainly  in  the 
oldest  thoroughfares  or  closes. 

A  few  houses  of  dates  prior  to  the  commencement  of 
the  16th  century  still  exist,  especially  in  the  Cowgate, 
Grassmarket,  and  Pleasance.  These  contain  a  sub- 
stantial ground  flat,  surmounted  by  a  wooden  story 
reached  by  an  outside  stair,  and  sometimes  projecting 
over  the  basement  flat  and  resting  upon  wooden  beams, 
so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  piazza  underneath,  with  very 
high  pitched  roofs,  pierced  by  storm-windows,  and 
originally  covered  with  thatch,  but  now  for  the  most 
part  slated.  Other  houses  of  dates  from  1500  till  1677 
are  still  standing,  particularly  in  the  closes,  entirely 
timber-fronted,  in  a  series  of  stories,  terminating  in 
gables.  The  successive  stories  project  from  one  another, 
so  far  as  sometimes  to  make  them  seem  more  likely  to 
topple  over  than  even  the  leaning  tower  of  Pisa.  These 
stand  sometimes  so  near  one  another,  front  to  front, 
in  the  closes,  that  persons  at  the  windows  of  their  upper 
stories  may  almost  shake  hands  across  the  intervening 
space ;  and,  in  some  instances,  they  have  an  outer 
or  fore-stair  leading  up  to  a  gallery  in  their  second 
story.  Others  of  similar  character,  but  of  somewhat 
later  date,  are  approached  by  archways  underneath 
from  the  street,  and  have  at  their  back  circular  or 
octagonal  towers  up  their  entire  height,  with  cork- 
screw staircases,  generally  well  lighted  by  large  square 
windows,  and  locally  called  turnpike-stairs.  The  old 
stone-built  houses  are  generally  very  loftj',  rising  to 
a  height  of  from  five  to  seven,  or  even  nine  stories, 
frequently  much  higher  in  the  back  facades  than  in  the 
front  ones,  and  ordinarily  surmounted  at  their  gables 
by  tall  chimney-stalks,  being  sometimes  crowned  there 
with  an  ornamental  finial,  and  occasionally  crow- 
stepped.  Many  houses  of  the  16th  and  17th  centuries 
have  roofs  oruamented  with  cannon-shaped  or  grotesque 
gargoyls  ;  many  also  have  bartizanned  roofs  and  orna- 
mental copings  ;  and  many  likewise  possess  on  the  roof 
elevation  dormer  windows  ^^•ith  gablets  and  pediments, 
the  latter  generally  triangular,  often  surmounted  by  a 
finial,  and  sometimes  crow-stepped.  Houses  of  the 
time  of  James  VI.  and  Charles  I.  have  all  high- 
pitched  roofs,  with  other  more  or  less  characteristic 
features,  and  some  of  them  with  two  tiers  of  dormer 
•windows,  presenting  the  picturesque  appearance  of 
the  steep  old  Flemish  roofs.  The  windows  in  the 
better  class  of  the  older  mansions  were  divided  by 
stone  mullions,  furnished  ■with  leaden  casements,  some- 
times also  by  stone  transoms.  They  were  commonly 
surmounted  by  pediments,  either  triangular  or  semi- 
circidar,  often  containing  inscriptions  ;  tliey  frequently 
had  carved  lintels,  with  either  dates,  inscriptions,  or 
armorial  bearings  in  strong  relief,  and  were  sometimes 
boldly  corbelled  out  from  the  wall.  The  doorways  of 
most  of  the  houses  of  the  16th  and  ITtli  centuries  are 
square  -  headed  and  richly  moulded,  having  ornate 
carvings  of  initials,  names,  and  armorial  bearings  on 
their  architraves  and  lintels,  while  those  of  a  few  are 
of  Gothic  character,  with  ogee-arched  and  sculptured 
tjTupana.  The  better  class  of  the  old  ashlar-fronted 
houses  have  ornamental  string-courses,  often  of  very 
irregular  character,  and  those  of  the  17th  century  fre- 
quently have  the  eaves  string-course  carried  round  the 
wimlows,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  make  them  look  as  if 
projecting  from  the  wall.  Houses  of  the  17th  century, 
at  the  time  when  Gothic  forms  began  to  give  place  to 
the  unbroken  lines  of  Halian  composition,  want  tlie 
dormer  windows  of  the  roof,  and  have  pedimented 
windows  in.stead,  appearing  as  panels  in  the  wall-face 
beneath.  Some  of  the  houses  built  prior  to  the  Refor- 
mation have  decorated  niches,  thought  to  have  origin- 
488 


EDINBURGH 

ally  contained  statuettes  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  often 
let  into  abrupt  corners  of  the  biiilding ;  and  some  of 
times  later  than  the  Reformation  have  also  niches, 
which  probably  contained  busts  or  effigies  of  the 
founders  or  of  eminent  persons.  The  ground-floor  of 
a  few  of  the  larger  old  stone  houses  has  the  appearance 
of  an  arcade,  being  formed  of  a  series  of  arches  resting 
on  pillars,  strong  and  massive  enough  to  sustain  the 
superincumbent  weight  of  the  upper  stories.  A  castel- 
lated style,  borrowed  from  the  French,  was  introduced 
in  the  time  of  James  V.,  and  is  characterised  chiefly 
bj''  circular  turrets,  commonly  called  pepper-box  tur- 
rets, resting  on  corbels  of  bold  bulging  abruptness, 
crowned  ■«ith  conical  or  ogee  roofs,  and  placed  at  the 
angles  of  the  building  so  as  to  command  the  interven- 
ing curtains.  The  Italian  style,  at  least  as  to  its  main 
features,  was  introduced  toward  the  close  of  Charles  II. 's 
reign.  It  occasioned  the  gradual  disappearance  of  corbio 
steps,  and  gave  rise  to  gables  in  the  form  of  pediments, 
surmounted  by  urns  and  similar  ornaments,  as  well  as 
to  square-headed  entrances  to  courts  and  wynds,  often 
highly  ornamented  with  pendent  keystones,  capitalled 
pilasters,  and  Doric  entablatures.  The  old  public 
buildings  also  exhibit  much  diversity  of  style,  but  will 
afterwards  be  noticed  in  detail. 

The  architecture  of  the  New  Town  owes  much  of  its 
eff'ect  to  the  quality  of  the  building  material.  This  is  a 
fine-grained,  compact,  durable,  light-coloured,  silicious 
sandstone  ;  and,  though  in  some  instances  deteriorated 
by  intermixture  of  argillaceous  or  ferruginous  matter, 
is  generally  so  firm  as  to  receive  and  retain  chisellings 
and  carvings  nearly  as  well  as  good  marble,  and  so 
pure  as  to  suff"er  little  change  of  colour  from  atmo- 
spheric action.  The  architecture,  in  a  few  of  the 
public  buildings,  is  some  variety  or  other  of  the 
Pointed  st3de — in  three  or  four,  is  Saxon  or  Norman  ; 
but  in  all  the  rest  of  the  public  buildings,  and  in  all  the 
private  ones,  is  some  variety  or  other  of  the  Renais- 
sance or  the  Italian.  It  has  been  denounced,  by  some 
high  authorities,  as  too  uniform  or  even,  as  plain 
and  insipid  ; — and  it  certainly  would  have  been  more 
eff"ective,  had  it  included  bolder  and  more  numerous  in- 
stances than  it  docs  of  other  styles  than  the  prevailing 
one  ; — stUl  it  exhibits  a  tolerably  fair  amount  of  native 
diversity,  is  moderately  rich  in  good  ornamentation, 
is  comparatively  free  from  meretricious  ornature,  and 
often  acquires  extrinsic  eftectiveness  from  the  grouping  of 
edifices  one  with  another,  and  from  their  relations  to  site 
and  to  surrounding  objects.  Many  ranges  of  buildings, 
and  many  entire  streets,  though  constructed  on  some 
plan  of  a  single  facade,  display,  not  monotony,  but 
symmetry,  with  great  diversity  of  detail.  Rustication 
of  the  basement  story,  isolated  iron  balconies  on  the 
next  story,  and  balustered  parapets  along  the  summit 
prevail  in  some  places,  such  as  Alva  Street.  Pillared 
doorways,  continuous  iron  balconies,  and  massive  cor- 
nices are  seen  in  others,  such  as  Regent  Terrace. 
Massive  pilasters,  rising  from  the  top  of  the  basement 
story,  facing  the  next  two  stories,  and  surmounted  by 
an  attic  story,  distinguish  many  chief  divisions  and 
conspicuous  ranges,  such  as  the  central  parts  of  Great 
King  Street  and  Royal  Circus.  Massive  attached 
columns,  variously  Doric,  Ionic,  and  Corinthian,  collo- 
cated sometimes  in  twos,  sometimes  in  fours,  sometimes 
in  sixes,  rising  from  the  top  of  the  projected  basement 
story,  facing  the  next  two  stories,  and  surmounted  by  an 
attic  story,  are  met  with  in  some  divisions,  such  as  part 
of  Albyn  Place,  great  part  of  Moray  Place,  and  the 
greater  i)art  of  Royal  Terrace.  The  same  feature,  but 
with  the  columns  standing,  not  on  a  projected  basement, 
but  in  antes,  characterise  other  places,  such  as  the  arc 
on  the  SW  extremity  of  Forres  Street,  the  two  arcs 
at  the  S  end  of  "Windsor  Street,  and  the  two  arcs 
at  the  widening  from  Lcith  Walk  toward  respec- 
tively Royal  Terrace  and  Loudon  Road.  The  same 
features,  but  M-ith  the  columns  surmounted  by  a  pedi- 
ment or  by  a  lofty  entablature,  show  themselves  in  other 
places,  such  as  the  central  parts  of  Albyn  Place,  of 
Melville  Street,  and  of  the   N   and  S  sides  of  Char- 


EDINBURGH 

lotte  Square.  Porticoes  in  any  similar  relative  situa- 
tion are  more  rare,  yet  three  tetrastyle  Ionic  ones 
occur  respectively  on  the  two  W  gables  of  AVaterloo 
Place,  and  on  a  gable  above  the  low  houses  of  Blenheim 
Place,  looking  toward  Royal  Terrace.  Festoons  and 
other  florid  ornamentations  occur  in  some  places,  such  as 
Charlotte  Square  and  Drummond  Place  ;  even  massive 
pieces  of  sculpture  are  not  wanting,  such  as  two  great 
sphinxes  on  the  summit  of  the  extremities  of  the  N  side 
of  Charlotte  Square  ;  while  most  of  the  minor  kinds 
of  Gr:"eco-Italiau  ornature,  such  as  rusticated  basements, 
moulded  architraves,  window  pediments,  string-courses, 
cord-cornices,  and  various  sorts  of  balustrades,  abound 
almost  everywhere.  The  Venetian,  the  Florentine, 
and  other  varieties  of  the  ornate  Italian  style  also  are 
not  uncommon.  A  greater  diversity  and  richer  orna- 
ture have  been  introduced  into  the  more  recent  buildings, 
exhibiting  varieties  or  features  not  previously  adopted  ; 
and  this  occurs  as  well  in  reconstructions  upon  old  sites 
as  in  new  buildings  on  new  ground.  A  taste  for  jjillared 
doorways,  porticoes,  mouldings,  sculptures,  and  orna- 
mentations in  the  renovation  and  remodelling  of  build- 
ings or  of  parts  of  buildings,  particularly  for  shops,  ware- 
rooms,  or  other  places  of  business,  has,  since  about  the 
year  1830,  been  little  short  of  a  passion.  Not  in  even  the 
smallest  colonnades  has  Tuscan  or  Doric  simplicity  as  a 
rule  been  deemed  sufficient ;  but  either  Ionic  gi-ace  or 
Corinthian  finery,  though  ■with  good  taste  in  the  detail, 
has  been  generally  aff'ected.  The  necessity  of  re-fashion- 
ing old  dwelling-houses  into  new  shops  at  the  smallest 
possible  cost,  has  also  produced  what  may  be  called  a  new 
style  in  street  architecture,  by  covering  over  the  area  of 
the  sunk  flats,  projecting  a  new  front  to  the  first  story 
half-way  across  that  area,  and  giving  to  the  new  front  an 
aspect  of  pretensiousness  or  elegance,  so  as  to  make  it 
appear  to  be  related  to  the  old  building  in  the  same 
manner  as  a  porch  or  a  verandah.  Reconstructions  of 
this  kind,  however,  are  not  always  contiguous  to  one 
another,  and  even  when  contiguous  are  too  often  of  dift'e- 
rent  projections  and  in  different  fashions.  The  public 
buildings,  both  civil  and  ecclesiastical,  have  diversities 
of  their  own,  and  are  so  interspersed  through  the 
thoroughfares  as  to  add  very  largely  to  the  aggregate 
diversity  of  the  street  views,  but  will  afterwards  be 
noticed  in  detail. 

The  Castle. — The  rock  on  which  the  Castle  stands  is 
volcanic,  of  the  variety  called  basaltic  clinkstone. 
Its  mineral  constituents  are  principally  lamellar  felspar 
and  titaniferous  iron,  with  very  little  augite.  It  pre- 
sents a  striking  specimen  of  an  erupted  mass,  soaring 
steeply  up,  comparatively  little  weathered,  and  spreading 
out  on  the  summit  into  an  inclined  tabular  form.  Its  base, 
from  N  to  S,  measures  about  300  yards  ;  from  W  to  the 
line  of  the  Castle's  outworks  on  the  E  about  360  yards. 
Its  northern,  western,  and  southern  sides  are  precipi- 
tous— in  some  parts,  almost  perpendicular ;  and  its 
highest  point  rises  nearly  300  feet  above  the  vale 
below,  and  383  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
northern  skirts,  at  least  in  their  eastern  parts,  un- 
dulate down  in  grassy  pleasure-grounds  to  West 
Princes  Street  Gardens  ;  the  western  skirts  go  down  in 
bare  rock  almost  sheer  to  the  valley  ;  and  the  southern 
skirts  have  been  very  much  altered  by  operations  con- 
nected with  the  New  AVestern  Approach.  On  some  parts 
of  the  shoulders  and  the  slopes,  beyond  the  present  ram- 
parts, are  vestiges  of  former  fortifications.  On  the  face 
of  the  precipice,  on  the  N  side  in  particular,  stands 
a  fragment  called  Wallace's  Cradle  ;  and  at  the  base  of 
that  precipice  is  a  small  old  ruin  of  date  1400,  called 
Wallace's  Tower — the  name  AVallace,  in  both  instances, 
being  a  corrui)tion  of  Well-house.  In  the  sloping 
pleasure-ground  on  the  N,  also,  is  a  curiously  sculp- 
tured upright  stone  ;  and,  adjacent  to  it,  is  a  walk 
carried  through  the  subterranean  remains  of  some  old 
outworks. 

The  area  immediately  E  of  the  present  Castle  ram- 
parts, at  the  head  of  Castle  Hill,  has  now  the  form  of 
an  esplanade  or  spacious  glacis,  and  slo[ies  gently  into 
line  with  the  hill-ridge  which  slants  E  to  Holyrood. 


EDINBURGH 

It  measures  about  120  yards  from  E  to  W,  and  about 
SO  yards  from  N  to  S,  and  had,  till  about  1753,  a  ridgy 
form,  defended  all  round  ])y  strong  military  outworks. 
It  is  now  entirely  oi)en,  with  merely  parapet  walls  along 
its  side,  and  serves  both  as  a  parade  ground  for  the 
garrison  and  a  lounge  for  the  idle.  It  contains  three 
monuments,  afterwards  to  bo  noticed  ;  overlooks  the 
romantic  masses  of  tho  south-western  part  of  the  Old 
To\vn  ;  and  commands  magnificent  views  of  the  New 
Town  and  of  the  country  beyond.  The  rock  of  the  hill 
eastward  from  the  esplanade,  and  of  part  of  the  esplanade 
itself,  is  principally  sandstone,  intermingled  with  red 
and  blue  slate-clay,  and  the  strata  of  it  incline  towards 
the  erupted  rock  in  the  vicinity  of  it,  but  dip  away  from 
it  in  other  places.  The  original  level  of  tho  esplanade 
was  consideraldy  lower  than  it  is  at  present,  and  com- 
municated with  the  entrance  to  the  Castle  by  a  long 
flight  of  steps ;  and  it  had,  on  its  eastern  verge,  an 
ancient  battery,  called  the  Spur,  which  was  demolished 
about  1649.  The  present  level  arose  from  the  for- 
mation of  a  narrow  roadway  after  the  demolition  of 
the  Spur  battery,  extended  by  deposits  of  earth,  dug 
from  the  N  side  of  High  Street,  about  the  year 
1753,  at  the  founding  of  the  Royal  Exchange.  A  line 
of  wall,  from  Wallace's  Tower  on  the  N  to  the  old 
Overbow  Port  on  the  SE,  anciently  crossed  the  head  of 
Castle  Hill,  separating  the  esplanade  from  the  town, 
and  was  pierced,  in  the  line  of  approach  to  the  Castle, 
by  a  gateway  called  the  Barrier  Gate,  which  was  tem- 
porarily restored  when  George  IV.  visited  Scotland  in 
1822,  and  to  isolate  the  garrison  when  the  cholera  raged 
in  the  city  in  1832.  The  ground  E  of  the  line  of  that 
wall,  on  the  mutual  border  of  the  esplanade  and  Castle 
Hill,  was,  as  far  as  the  head  of  the  West  Bow,  the  site  of 
the  original  Edmnesburg,  or  nucleus  of  Edinburgh  city. 
This  ground  was  partly  excavated  to  a  great  depth  in 
1850,  for  the  formation  of  a  large  water  reservoir,  and 
was  then  found  to  contain  relics  of  successive  periods 
back  to  the  9th  or  the  Sth  century.  First  were  found 
coins  of  the  early  mintage  of  George  III. ;  next  vestiges 
of  the  outwork  fortifications  demolished  in  1649  ;  then 
a  stratum  of  moss  containing  a  well-preserved  coin  of 
the  Lower  Empire  ;  and  lastly,  at  a  depth  of  more  than 
20  feet  below  the  present  surface,  sepulchral  relics  were 
found,  indicating  a  burying-ground  of  apparently  not 
later  date  than  the  centuries  referred  to. 

The  Castle  occupies  the  crown  of  the  Castle  rock  W 
of  the  esplanade,  and  measures  above  6  acres  in  area  and 
about  700  yards  in  circumference.  It  is  supposed  to 
have  been  occupied  as  a  military  stronghold  long  before 
the  Christian  era.  The  Caledonian  Reguli  held  it  in  the 
5th  century,  and  perhaps  much  earlier ;  they  and  the 
Northumbrian  Saxons  often  sharply  contested  for  the 
possession  of  it  from  452  till  tho  time  of  Malcolm  II. ; 
and  the  Northumbrian  king  Edwin  reconstructed  its 
fortifications  about  the  year  626,  and  gave  it  the  name 
of  Edwinesburg,  signifying  Edwin's  Castle,  afterwards 
transmuted  into  Edinburgh.  Its  buildings  have  under- 
gone many  alterations,  extensions,  demolitions,  and  re- 
movals at  various  periods  ;  so  that  they  presented,  both 
internally  and  externally,  in  the  Middle  x\ges  an  appear- 
ance very  difl'erent  from  what  they  present  now.  Indeed, 
with  one  single  exception,  all  of  earlier  date  than  the  15th 
century  have  been  swept  away.  The  principal  ones  in 
1572,  previous  to  a  siege  of  thirty-three  days  by  the 
troops  of  tho  Regent  ]\IoVton  and  the  English  auxiliaries 
under  Sir  William  Drury,  are  describeil  as  follows  in 
the  memoirs  of  Kirkaldy  of  Grange  :— '  On  the  highest 
part  of  the  rock  stood,  and  yet  stands,  the  square  tower 
where  Mary  of  Guise  died,  James  VI.  was  born,  and 
where  the  regalia  have  been  kept  for  ages.  On  the  N 
a  massive  pile,  called  David's  Tower,  built  by  the  second 
monarch  of  that  name,  and  containing  a  spacious  hall, 
rose  to  the  height  of  more  than  40  feet  above  the  pre- 
cipice, which  threw  its  shadows  on  the  loch  200  feet 
below.  Another,  named  from  Wallace,  stood  nearer  to 
the  city  ;  and  where  now  the  formidable  Half  Moon 
rears  up  its  time-worn  front,  two  high  embattled  walls, 
bristliu"  with  double  tiers  of  ordnance,  flanked  on  tha 

489 


EDINBURGH 

N  by  the  round  tower  of  the  Constable  50  feet  high,  and 
on  the  S  by  a  square  gigantic  peel,  opposed  their  faces 
to  the  city.     The  soldiers  of  the  garrison  occupied  the 
peel,  the  foundations  of  which  are  yet  visible.     Below 
it  lav  the  entrance,  with  its  portcullis  and  gates,  to 
which  a  ilight  of  forty  steps  ascended.     The  other  towers 
were  St  Margaret's,  closed  by  a  ponderous  gate  of  iron, 
the  kitchen  tower,  the  large  munition  house,  the  ar- 
mourer's forge,  the  bakehouse,  brewery,  and  gun-house, 
at  the  gable  of  which  swung  a  sonorous  copper  bell  for  i 
calling  the  watchers  and  alarming  the  garrison.     The  \ 
Castle  then  contained  a  great  hall,  a  palace,  the  regalia,  a  j 
church,  and  an  oratory  endowed  by  St  Margaret.'     The  j 
eastern  front  looked  then  entirely  different  from  what  it 
does  now  ;  and,  in  the  siege  by  IJegcnt  Morton,  suffered 
such  utter  demolition,  that  David's  Tower  and  the  Con-  I 
stable's  Tower  were  reduced  to  a  heap  of  sheer  cUhris.   I 
The  present  eastern  front  was  all  constructed  by  the  j 
Regent  Morton  immediately  after  the  siege.     The  for-  i 
tress,  prior  to  the  invention  of  gunpowder,  was  so  strong 
by  nature  that  art  cither  made  it,  or  might  easily  have 
made  it,  impregnable  ;  but  it  is  now  so  easily  approach- 
able by  artillery  from  the  E  side,  that  it  possesses  very  | 
little  real  military  strength.     It  stands  there,  however,  | 
a  monument  of  natural  grandeur,  a  memorial  of  Scottish 
history,  and  a  garrison  for  roj^al  troops. 

The  entrance  to  the  Castle  goes  through  a  palisadoed 
outer  barrier  ;  across  a  drawbridge  spanning  a  deep  dry 
fosse,  now  serving  as  a  tennis-court  for  the  soldiers ; 
through  a  gatewa}-,  flanked  by  low  batteries  ;  up  a  cause- 
way, between  rock  and  masonry  ;  and  through  a  long 
vaulted  archway,  with  ti'aces  of  two  ancient  portcullises 
and  several  ancient  gates.  An  edifice  surmounts  the 
vaulted  archway,  which  was  erected  on  the  site  of  an 
ancient  batter}"  for  the  pui'poses  of  a  state  prison,  and 
in  which  the  Earl  of  Argyll,  the  ilarquis  of  Argyll, 
Principal  Carstares,  Lord  Balcarres,  and  many  others, 
n  Jacobite  rebellion  times  especially,  were  incarcer- 
ated. Argyll  battery,  facing  the  N,  a  few  paces  be- 
yond the  archwaj",  has  twelve  guns,  which  are  only 
used  for  firing  salutes  ;  and  commands  a  fine  view 
over  all  the  New  Toaxti,  away  to  the  distant  horizon. 
A  low  range  of  barracks  and  the  armoury  are  at  the 
XW  corner,  a  little  beyond  the  Argyll  battery ;  the 
armoury,  standing  at  the  foot  of  a  short  roadway,  is  a 
large  building,  with  storage  for  30,000  stand  of  arms, 
and  contains  a  rich  assortment  of  weapons  and  trophies. 
A  high  bastion  behind  the  armoury  was  erected  about 
1856  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  sally-port,  which  com- 
municated precipitously  with  ancient  outworks.  Con- 
siderable alteration  was  made  on  both  rock  and  buildings 
at  the  erection  of  that  bastion,  involving  the  destruction 
of  the  cliff,  and  resulting  in  assimilating  the  NW  corner 
more  to  the  aspect  of  modern  fortification  work  at  the 
expense  of  natural  picturesqueness.  The  governor's 
house,  erected  in  the  time  of  Queen  Anne,  and  the  new 
barracks,  built  in  1796,  stand  on  the  verge  of  the  rock, 
with  their  back  to  the  W,  a  little  beyond  the  high 
liastion  ;  and  the  latter  has  three  stories  in  front  but 
four  in  the  rear,  rests  there  on  a  range  of  arches,  and 
appears  at  a  considerable  distance  like  a  large  factory 
mounted  on  the  brow  of  a  precipice.  The  road  sweeps 
past  these  buildings  in  an  ascending  curve,  and  proceeds 
eastward,  through  a  strong  gateway  in  a  separate  en- 
closure, into  the  inner  or  higher  division  of  the  Castle, 
sometimes  called  the  Citadel. 

A  quadrangle,  called  the  Grand  Parade  or  the  Palace 
yard,  occupies  the  southern  part  of  the  citadel,  measures 
100  feet  each  way,  surmounts  the  edge  of  the  cliffs  over- 
hanging the  Old  Town  on  its  S  and  E  sides,  and  is 
built  on  all  its  four  sides.  A  large  church,  probably 
of  Norman  date,  and  seemingly  of  fine  Norman  character, 
long  stood  on  the  N  side  of  tlie  Grand  Parade.  It  figures 
cons[)icuously  in  ancient  extant  pictorial  views  of  the 
Castle,  but  was  converted,  after  the  Reformation,  into 
storage-rooms  and  armoury,  and  gave  place,  about 
the  middle  of  last  century,  to  a  plain  oljlong  pile  of 
baiTacks;  which,  about  1860-62,  was  remodelleil  and  em- 
bellished after  designs  by  Billings.  The  old  Parliament 
490 


EDINBURGH 

Hall  occupies  the  S  side  of  the  Grand  Parade.  It  was 
a  magnificent  apartment,  80  feet  long,  33  wide,  and 
27  high,  and  had  a  character  similar  to  that  of  the 
Parliament  House  in  Parliament  Square.  It  Avas 
used  no  less  for  royal  banquets  than  for  meetings 
of  Parliament,  but  has  been  extensively  subdivided,  and 
is  now  the  garrison  hospital.  The  old  Royal  Palace 
occupies  the  S  and  E  sides  of  the  Grand  Parade.  It  was 
erected  at  various  periods  down  to  1616,  and  was  long 
the  residence  or  the  retreat  of  the  kings  and  queens  of 
Scotland.  The  view  from  it  was  one  the  most  superb 
to  be  had  anywhere  of  the  suburbs  to  the  S  of  the 
city.  Queen  Mary's  room,  where  Queen  Mary  gave 
birth  to  James  YI.,  afterwards  I.  of  England,  in  1566, 
is  on  the  ground-floor,  at  the  SE  corner,  and  has  an 
irregular  form  and  length  of  less  than  9  feet.  It  re- 
tains its  original  ceiling,  in  ornamental  wooden  panels, 
with  the  initials  J.  E.  and  M.  R. ,  and  a  royal  crown  in 
alternate  comjiartments ;  it  retains  also  some  of  the 
original  wainscoat  panelling,  interpatched  with  taste- 
less renovations,  and  is  open  to  the  public.  The  Crown 
Room  is  on  the  E  side  of  the  Grand  Parade,  and  contains 
the  ancient  regalia  of  Scotland,  comprising  crown, 
sceptre,  sword  of  state  (presented  to  James  IV.  by  Pope 
Julius  II.),  lord  treasui'er's  rod,  and  various  royal 
jewels.  It  underwent  some  alterations  in  1872,  for  im- 
proved conservation  and  exhibition  of  the  regalia  ;  and 
is  accessible  daily  to  the  public  from  12  till  3  p.m. 
The  regalia  had  been  lodged  here  in  1707  at  the  time  of 
the  Union,  but  it  was  surmised  they  had  been  afterwards 
conveyed  away  by  stealth  to  London.  Only  when  a 
commission  was  appointed  in  1818  by  the  Regent,  were 
they  found  to  be  still  there,  and  laid  open  to  the  view 
of  the  lieges.  The  Half-Moon  Battery  is  on  the  E  face 
of  the  Citadel,  and  in  front  of  the  Grand  Parade.  It 
was  constructed  in  1574  on  the  site  of  David's  Tower, 
overlooks  the  Old  Town  in  the  line  of  Castle  Hill  and 
High  Street,  and  is  mounted  with  fourteen  guns.  An 
electric  clock  and  apparatus  connected  with  the  Royal 
Observatory  on  Calton  Hill  discharges  a  time-gun  here 
daily  at  one  o'clock,  by  means  of  a  wire  stretching 
from  the  hill  to  the  Castle  ;  and  it  was  from  behind  the 
flagstaff  here  that  King  George  IV.  and  Queen  Victoria 
surveyed  the  city.  The  King's  Bastion  is  on  the  NE 
verge  of  the  citadel,  occupying  the  highest  cliff  of  the 
Castle  rock.  It  forms  a  tier  above  the  Argyll  Battery, 
commands  a  most  gorgeous  panoramic  view,  over  the 
New  Town,  to  Ben  Lomond  and  the  Ochil  Hills,  and 
was  formerly  mounted  as  a  bomb  battery.  It  now  con- 
tains only,  and  as  a  mere  show-piece,  the  famous  old 
monster-gun  called  Mons  Meg,  the  oldest  in  Europe,  it 
is  said,  save  one  in  Lisbon,  composed  of  thick  iron  bars 
held  together  by  a  close  series  of  iron  hoops.  It  was 
constructed,  it  is  now  understood,  in  1455,  by  native 
artizans,  at  the  instance  of  James  II.  when  baflled  with 
the  siege  of  Th  reave  in  Galloway,  a  stronghold  of  the 
Douglases,  tradition  adding  that  certain  loyal  lieges 
of  the  King,  or  more  properly  enemies  of  the  Douglas, 
contributed  each  a  bar  to  its  construction,  and  that 
the  name  bestowed  on  the  gun  was  in  honour  of  the 
wife  of  the  smith  who  hammered  out  its  ribs,  and 
hooped  them  together.  It  was  employed  by  James 
IV.  in  1497  at  the  siege  of  Dumbarton  Castle,  rent 
in  1682  when  firing  a  salute  in  honour  of  the  Duke 
of  York's  visit,  removed  to  the  Tower  of  London  in 
1754,  and  returned  to  Edinburgh  in  1829  by  the  Duko 
of  Wellington  in  response  to  the  petition  of  Sir  Walter 
Scott.  StMargaret's  Chapel,  behind  the  King's  Bastion, 
is  the  only  building  of  the  Castle  of  earlier  date  than 
the  15tli  century,  and  the  oldest  extant  building  in 
Edinburgh.  It  was  the  private  oratory  of  ilargaret,  queen 
of  JIalcolm  Ceannmor.  It  measures  only  16i  by  lOi  feet 
within  the  nave ;  suffered  long  neglect,  and  was  for 
some  time  used  as  a  powder  magazine ;  underwent 
restoration  and  adornment  with  stained-glass  windows 
in  1853  ;  and  is  now  used  as  the  garrison  baptistry. 

An  extensive  suite  of  barracks,  auxiliary  to  the  Castle, 
is  situated  on  Johnston  Terrace,  with  one  frontage  to 
that  thoroughfare,  and  another  overlooking  Grassmarkct. 


EDINBURGH 

They  were  erected  in  1872-73  in  a  style  so  severely  plain, 
as  to  positively  disfigure  the  romantically  picturesque 
scenery  among  which  they  were  planted  ;  but  as  the  result 
of  representations  respecting  them  made  to  Government 
they  were  subjected,  at  a  cost  of  about  £2500,  to  several 
ornamental  structural  alterations.  A  semi-octagon  tower, 
with  large  door-way  openings  and  loop-holes  in  the 
angles,  and  an  angular  or  V  tower  with  narrow  loop- 
holes, were  introduced  to  the  N  elevation  ;  a  large  square 
tower,  with  an  open  gallery  carried  on  corbels  round  its 
first  floor,  was  placed  in  the  middle  of  the  S  elevation  ; 
two  square  towers,  with  staircases  and  balconies  between, 
were  erected  at  each  end  ;  and  all  the  towers  are  in  quasi- 
Gothic  style,  and  finished  at  the  top  with  high-pitched 
roofs  and  iron  finials.  (See  J.  Grant's  Memorials  of  the 
Castle  of  Edinburgh,  Edinb.  1862 ;  and  G.  Oliver's 
Guide  to  the  Castle,  Edinb.  1857.) 

Holijrood,  in  Canongate  parish,  consisting  of  an 
ancient  Abbey  and  Eoyal  Palace,  stands  on  the  E 
side  of  a  quadrangular  area  called  the  Palace-yard 
close  to  the  foot  or  E  end  of  Canongate,  and  is  within 
the  parliamentary  boundary  of  the  city.  It  originated 
as  an  abbey  in  the  time  of  David  I. ,  and  the  ground 
occupied  by  it,  as  well  as  that  occupied  by  the  burgh  of 
Canongate,  was  till  that  period  a  natural  deer  forest, 
which  extended  eastward  nearly  as  far  as  Musselburgh. 
^Monkish  legend  asserts  that,  on  Rood-day,  or  the 
festival  of  the  Exaltation  of  the  Cross,  King  David  I. 
proceeded  from  the  Castle  to  hunt  in  the  forest,  and 
that,  when  in  the  hollow  between  the  present  site  of 
the  Abbey  and  the  N  end  of  Salisbury  Crags,  and 
separated  from  his  retinue,  the  King  was  assailed, 
unhorsed,  and  driven  to  bay  by  a  strong  vicious  hart 
with  powerful  antlers.  Just  at  that  moment  a  dazzling 
cross,  or  'holy  rude,'  was  miraculously  extended  to  the 
King  by  an  arm  shrouded  in  a  dark  cloud,  and  the 
sheen  of  this  cross  struck  such  sharp  terror  into  the 
infuriated  deer  that  it  at  once  turned  and  took  to 
flight.  On  the  following  night  the  King  was  ad- 
monished in  a  dream  or  vision  to  erect  and  endow  a 
monastery  on  or  near  the  spot  where  this  happened,  in 
token  of  his  supernatural  deliverance  ;  and  here  accord- 
ingly, it  is  said  King  David  founded  an  Augustinian 
abbey,  and  dedicated  it  to  the  Holy  Rude.  Such  is  the 
legend  which  is,  no  doubt,  a  fiction  invented  some  time 
after  the  King's  death,  but  the  invention  was  probably 
suggested  by  some  unusual  incident  occurring  during 
the  hunt  on  an  annual  church  festival  It  is  more  pro- 
bable that  the  Abbey  owes  its  name  to  a  cross,  that  was 
fabled  to  contain  a  portion  of  the  actual  '  rude '  on 
which  Christ  was  crucified,  and  that  had  been  be- 
queathed to  David  by  his  mother,  the  pious  ifargaret, 
who  had  brought  it  with  her  to  Scotland,  probably  as 
a  relic  she  cherished  of  Edward  the  Confessor.  The 
Abbey  would  almost  seem  to  have  been  erected  to  guard 
t  his  relic  ;  anyhow  something  of  the  sort  was  committed 
to  the  care  of  the  monks  b\-  David  when  the  Abbej'  was 
ibtmded,  and  it  appears  to  have  been  religiously  guarded 
l>y  them  as  a  talisman  on  which  depended  not  only  the 
fortunes  of  the  Abbey,  but  the  fate  of  the  country.  David 
II.,  apparently  in  this  belief,  had  it  carried  before  his 
arm  J'  when  he  invaded  England,  but  it  passed  ominously 
into  the  hands  of  his  enemies  at  the  battle  of  Neville's 
Cross,  and  was  placed  by  them  in  Durham  Cathedral, 
where  it  was  long  preserved,  both  as  a  trophy  of  victory 
and  as  an  object  of  religious  veneration. 

The  Abbey  was  founded  in  1128,  and  was  bestowed 
with  large  revenues  on  the  canons  regular  of  the 
Augustinian  order.  It  was  designed  and  built  in  the 
grandest  manner,  and  became  very  soon  one  of  the  richest 
and  most  splendid  monastic  establishments  in  the 
kingdom.  The  Abbey  comprised  lodging  accommo- 
dation for  both  poor  and  wealthy  wayfarers,  apart- 
ments for  royal  guests,  cloisters  for  the  use  of  its  own 
monks,  and  a  magnificent  cruciform  church,  having  all 
the  accessories  of  a  cathedral — nave,  transepts,  and  choir 
— with  two  towers  on  its  western  front,  and  a  great  central 
tower  at  the  intersection  of  the  nave  and  transepts.  The 
apartments   for    royal   guests  stood  on   the   S   of  the 


EDINBURGH 

church,  and  were  long  used  in  conjunction  with  Edin- 
burgh Castle  as  a  substitute  for  a  royal  palace,  but  these 
eventually  gave  place  to  entirely  new  buildings  on  the 
same  site,  represented  by  the  present  palace.  The 
cloisters  projected  from  the  S  side  of  the  church's 
nave  eastward  to  the  S  transept,  but  were  eventually 
removed  to  make  room  for  extensions  of  the  original 
royal  buildings,  and  are  now  traceable  in  only  a  part  of 
their  N  side.  The  church  choir,  as  usual,  had  a 
Lady  chapel  at  its  E  end,  and  both  it  and  the 
transepts  must  have  been  of  an  extent  and  in  a  st3'le 
corresponding  with  the  size  and  elegance  of  the  nave  ; 
but  these  were  totally  demolished  by  the  English  in 
1543,  and  no  trace  of  them  is  left.  The  nave,  148  feet 
long  and  66  broad,  underwent  improvements  and  re- 
storations at  various  periods,  both  before  and  after  the 
destruction  of  the  other  parts  of  the  pile  ;  and,  with  the 
exception  of  its  roof,  its  central  tower,  the  spires  of  its 
western  towers,  and  some  of  the  upper  parts  of  the 
walls,  is  still  standing.  A  wall  across  its  E  end  was 
built  at  the  Reformation  to  convert  it  into  a  parish 
church ;  it  was  constructed  with  defaced  materials  of  the 
demolished  choir  and  transepts,  and  has  in  its  centre, 
between  the  western  two  of  the  four  pillars  which  sup- 
ported the  great  central  tower,  a  large  coarse  window, 
with  muUions  and  quatrefoils.  The  cloister  doorway  is 
still  apparent  on  its  S  side,  and  shows  beautiful 
shafts  and  rich  chevron  moulding  in  Norman  archi- 
tecture. The  buttresses,  side  ^vindows,  and  a  doorway 
on  the  N  side  were  reconstructed  about  the  middle 
of  the  15th  century,  and  exhibit  ornate  features  of  the 
later  Gothic.  Flying  buttresses  project  from  the  side 
walls,  and  have  tiers  of  small  pointed  arches  resting  on 
slender  shafts.  Each  of  the  side  windows  was  divided 
into  two  lights  by  a  pillar,  and  had  a  pointed  arch  in 
each  light,  an  embracing  pointed  arch  on  both  lights,  and 
quati'efoil  ornaments  in  the  spandril.  Most  of  the  W 
front  is  the  unaltered  work  of  the  original  builders ; 
forms  an  exquisite  specimen  of  the  Transition  Norman 
architecture,  with  mixture  of  pure  Norman  and  Early 
Gothic  ;  displays  in  its  great  doorway  surpassing  beauty 
of  ornamentation  ;  and  has  on  the  face  of  its  NW  tower 
an  elaborately  sculptured  arcade,  with  boldly  cut  heads 
between  the  arches.  The  ^vindows  over  the  great  door- 
way, and  an  ornamental  tablet  between  them,  were 
introduced  in  the  time  of  Charles  I.,  and  have  a 
peculiar,  yet  well-decorated  character. 

The  Abbey  rose  and  flourished  in  times  when  mitred 
abbots  were  more  than  a  match  for  civil  gi-andees,  and 
occasionally  dared  to  measure  their  strength  with  kings ; 
and,  being  situated  near  one  of  the  strongest  military 
posts  in  Scotland,  where  the  royal  court  had  increas- 
ingly frequent  occasion  to  sojourn,  it  began  from  the 
time  of  its  completion  to  share  with  Edinburgh  Castle 
the  honours  of  the  seat  of  royal  power.  The  members 
of  the  royal  family  often  lodgcil  in  it ;  parliaments  of 
Robert  Bruce  and  Edward  Baliol  were  held  in  it ;  James 

I.  and  his  queen  loved  it  better  than  any  of  their  own 
palaces  ;  James  II. ,  who  was  born  as  well  as  cro\vned 
within  its  precincts,  put  it  into  close  proximity  to  the 
throne,  by  constituting  Edinburgh  the  national  metro- 
polis ;  James  III.  resided  in  it  for  lengthened  periods  ; 
while  James  IV.  and  subsequent  kings  identified  it 
with  the  Crown  by  erecting  and  extending,  in  juxta- 
position with  it,  a  permanent  royal  palace.     Charles 

II.  restored  the  nave,  and  converted  it  into  a  chapel 
royal.  A  throne  was  then  erected  for  the  sovereign, 
and  twelve  stalls  for  the  Knights  of  the  Thistle,  and 
the  floor  tessellated  with  variouslj'-coloured  marble. 
A  mob,  at  the  Revolution,  in  revenge  for  James  VII. 
ha^^ng  used  the  chapel  for  Romish  worship,  unroofed, 
gutted,  and  reduced  it  to  a  state  of  ruin.  A  restora- 
tion was  attempted,  and  a  stone  roof  placed  over  it 
in  1758  ;  but  the  roof,  being  too  heavy  for  the  old 
walls,  fell  in  suddenly  in  1768,  bringing  down  part  of 
the  walls,  and  ruining  all  the  recent  work  of  restora- 
tion. The  pile  was  then  abandoned  to  neglect,  and 
became  a  crumbling  ruin,  choked  with  rubbish,  till 
1S16,  when  it  was  put  into  orderly  condition  ;  and  in 

491 


EDINBURGH 


EDINBURGH 


1857,  in  connection  with  extensive  improvement 
throughout  the  Palace-yard,  was  laid  much  better 
open  than  before  to  public  view. 

A  roj-al  burying-vault  was  early  constructed,  near  the 
high  altar,  in  the  choir ;  and  after  the  choir  was  de- 
molished, a  new  vault  was  constructed  in  the  S  aisle 
of  the  nave,  to  receive  the  remains  of  Scottish  kings 
and  princes  which  had  been  entombed  in  the  old  vault. 
It  eventually  received  also  the  remains  of  Mary  of 
Gueldres,  removed  to  it  from  Old  Trinity  College 
church;  and  it  contains  also  the  ashes  of  David  II., 
James  II.,  the  queen  of  James  II.,  the  third  son  of 
James  IV.,  James  V.,  the  queen  and  the  second  son  of 
James  V.,  the  Duke  of  Albany,  and  Lord  Darnley. 
There  are  likewise  within  the  walls  the  tombs  of  Hep- 
burn, the  last  abbot  of  Holyrood,  and  of  Wishart,  the 
biographer  of  the  great  Marquis  of  Montrose ;  an  in- 
teresting recumbent  statue  of  Lord  Belhaven,  the 
strenuous  opponent  of  the  National  Union  ;  and  memo- 
rials or  remains  of  many  other  notable  persons.  Though 
now  a  place  of  gloom  and  silence,  it  yet  affects  the 
imagination  and  the  heart  at  once  by  its  historical 
associations,  its  architectural  features,  its  monuments, 
and  its  picturesque  combinations.  An  interior  view  of 
it,  under  a  cloudy  sky,  and  especially  in  moonlight,  is 
solemnly  impressive  ;  and  exterior  views  of  it  on 
the  N  or  the  E,  with  a  large  breadth  of  it  before  the 
eye,  and  its  intricate  outline  well-defined,  are  full  of 
character. 

A  charter  of  the  Abbej',  as  already  extant,  of  date 
somewhere  between  1143  and  1147,  still  exists.  This 
gives,  among  other  grants,  the  canons  the  privilege  of 
erecting  their  burgh  of  Canongate  ;  one  of  the  king's 
mills  of  Dean,  and  the  tenth  of  his  other  mills  at  Dean 
and  at  Liberton  ;  and  likewise  the  churches  of  Edin- 
burgh Castle,  St  Cuthbert,  Liberton,  Corstorphine,  and 
Airth,  with  the  priories  of  Blantyre  in  Clydesdale,  St 
Mary's  Isle  in  Galloway,  Rowadill  in  Ross,  and  Crusay, 
Oransay,  and  Colunsay,  in  the  Hebrides.  The  canons 
also  held  the  fishings  of  the  Water  of  Leith,  the  privi- 
lege of  mills  at  Cauonmills,  the  right  to  certain  suras  of 
money  from  the  exchequer,  grants  of  land  in  various 
places,  additional  to  those  connected  with  their  churches 
and  priories,  and  a  right  of  trial  by  duel  and  of  the 
water  and  fire  ordeal.  Their  jurisdiction  was  very  ex- 
tensive, and  of  a  rather  absolute  character,  if  indeed  the 
power  of  protecting  refugee  delinquents  and  criminals 
from  punishment  or  interference  belonged  to  the  Abbey, 
and  was  not  rather  a  roj-al  prerogative  connected  with 
the  Palace.  The  exercise  of  that  power  was  known  as  the 
right  of  sanctuary,  and  extended  over  all  the  precincts 
from  the  Girth  Cross  at  the  foot  of  Canongate  to  the 
utmost  limits  of  the  royal  park.  This  power  of  sanctuary 
was  used,  in  the  Romish  times,  for  shielding  every  de- 
scription of  offender,  but  came  afterwards  to  be  used 
only  for  protecting  insolvent  debtors,  in  times  especi- 
ally when  the  law  gave  greater  powers  to  creditors  than 
it  afterwards  did.  The  refugees  witliin  the  sanctuary 
were,  for  a  long  time,  pojmlarly  and  satirically  called 
'Abbey  Lairds,'  and  were  made  the  subject  of  an  old 
comic  song,  entitled  The  Cock  Laird.  A  group  of 
old  plain  houses,  called  St  Ann's  Yards,  was  their 
principal  retreat.  These  houses  stood  on  ground  now 
^vithin  the  enclosure  on  the  S  side  of  the  Palace,  and 
figure  as  the  scene  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's  Chronicles  of 
the  Canongate,  but  were  demolished  partly  in  1850, 
and  wholly  in  1857.  NE  from  the  Abbey  is  the  old- 
fashioned  suburb  of  Abueyhill,  wliich  still  contains 
some  curious  old  houses,  one  of  these  being  the  ancient 
house  of  Crofl-an-Righ{i.e.,  King's  Croft),  having  cor- 
belled turrets  and  dormer  windows,  and  having  at  one 
time  an  entrance  to  the  Abbey  ;  another  was  Clockmill 
House,  witliin  an  enclosure,  and  surrounded  by  fine  old 
trees,  some  of  which  still  remain,  but  the  house  was 
recently  purchased  and  removed  by  government,  and 
the  grounds  added  to  the  Queen's  Park. 

The  Palace,  as  distinct  from  the  Abbey,  was  founded 
by  James  IV.  in  1501  ;  enlarged  by  James  V.  in  1528  ; 
mostly  destroyed,  by  the  Englisli  forces  under  the  Earl 
492 


of  Hertford,  in  1543  ;  rebuilt,  on  a  much  larger  scale 
and  in  greater  splendour,  in  the  immediately  following 
years ;  mostly  destroyed  again  by  fire  when  occupied  by 
the  soldiers  of  Oliver  Cromwell ;  and  partly  I'estored, 
but  mainly  reconstructed,  by  Charles  II.  on  an  entirely 
new  plan,  after  designs  by  Sir  William  Bruce  of 
Kinross,  in  1671-79.  The  contract  for  the  demo- 
lition of  the  old  pile  of  buildings  and  their  recon- 
struction at  this  date  has  recently  been  discovered. 
It  shows  that  at  1671  the  amount  for  the  work  was 
reckoned  at  £4200 ;  but  that  there  was  a  second  contract 
in  March  1676  for  £324,  and  a  third  in  July  1676  for  £350. 
The  pile  of  1528  is  still  represented  by  the  northern 
projecting  wing  of  the  front  range  of  the  existing 
palace.  The  Palace  erected  immediately  after  1544 
comprised  five  courts :  the  first  projecting  toward  the 
foot  of  Canongate,  and  entering  from  thence  through  a 
strong  gateway  flanked  mth  towers ;  the  second  and 
the  third  occupying  nearly  the  same  ground  as  the 
present  palace ;  the  fourth  and  the  fifth  of  small  size, 
and  situated  to  the  S.  The  present  Palace  consists  of 
the  small  remaining  part  of  the  pile  of  1528,  and  the  en- 
tire edifice  of  1671-79  ;  and  has  the  form  of  an  open  quad- 
rangle, enclosing  a  square  court  of  94  feet  each  way. 
It  underwent  exterior  renovation  in  1826,  interior  im- 
provement in  1842  ;  and  was  entirely  renewed  as  to  the 
roof  of  the  Palace  in  the  years  1878-80,  at  a  cost  of 
about  £5000.  It  has,  all  round  the  S,  the  E,  and  the 
N  sides,  a  uniform  three-story  elevation,  in  plain  Italian 
style  ;  presents  its  main  front  to  the  W  ;  and  consists 
there  of  centre  and  wings, — the  centre  a  two-story 
architectural  screen,  pierced  with  the  entrance  doorway, 
surmounted  by  a  balustrade  and  by  a  small  clock 
lantern,  with  an  open,  carved,  stone  cupola  in  form  of 
an  imperial  crown.  "The  wings  project  about  40  feet, 
rising  to  the  height  of  three  stories,  and  are  flanked  by 
circular  cone-capped  turrets.  In  its  enclosed  court  it 
exhibits  an  arcade-piazza  basement,  and  three  upper 
ranges  of  fluted  pilasters,  successively  Doric,  Ionic,  and 
Corinthian ;  shows,  in  the  centre  of  the  front  toward 
the  W,  a  pediment  charged  with  a  large  well-carved 
sculpture  of  the  royal  arms  ;  and  contains  the  royal 
private  apartments,  a  spacious  hall,  called  the  picture 
gallery,  and  Queen  Mary's  apartments.  The  royal 
private  apartments  occupy  the  S  and  the  E  sides,  and 
are  reached  by  a  grand  staircase  from  the  SE  angle  of  the 
court.  They  were  formed  on  a  model  aggregated  from 
all  the  older  royal  residences  in  Scotland  ;  lay  long  in  a 
state  of  great  neglect ;  and,  preparatory  to  the  visits  of 
Queen  Victoria,  were  entirely  refitted  in  a  style  of  much 
elegance.  The  picture  gallery  is  on  the  N  ;  measures 
150  feet  in  length,  24  feet  in  breadth,  and  about  20  feet 
in  height ;  is  hung  with  more  than  one  hundred  alleged 
portraits  of  reputed  Scottish  kings,  all  in  barbarous 
style,  painted  in  16S4-S6  by  the  Flemish  artist  De  Witt. 
There  is  also  a  remarkable  triptych,  painted  about 
1484,  containing  portraits  of  James  III.  and  his 
queen,  Margaret  of  Denmark,  believed  to  have  been 
originally  an  altar-piece  in  the  church  of  the  Holy 
Trinity.  This  picture  gallery  was  used  by  Prince 
Charles  Edward,  in  1745,  for  his  receptions  and  balls ; 
and  is  the  place  where  the  Scottish  peers  elect  their 
representatives  for  parliament,  and  where  the  Lord 
High  Commissioner  to  the  General  Assembly  of  the 
Church  of  Scotland  holds  his  levees.  Queen  Mary's 
apartments  occupy  the  extant  portion  of  the  ])ile  of 
1528,  or  north-western  projection  of  the  present  Palace, 
entering  from  a  stair  in  the  NW  angle  of  the  court,  and 
continue  in  nearly  the  same  condition  as  when  Queen 
Mary  inhabited  them.  These  apartments  have  such  anti- 
quarian associations  and  curious  furnishings  that  C^luecn 
Victoria,  at  the  time  of  the  interior  improvements  of 
the  Palace,  issued  a  special  order  to  leave  them  undis- 
turbed. They  include  a  vestibule  with  some  dark 
stains,  fabled  to  have  been  made  by  the  blood  of  David 
Rizzio ;  an  audience  chamber,  hung  with  ancient  tapestry, 
and  containing  some  richly-embroidered  chairs,  where 
the  famous  interviews  occurred  between  Queen  Mary  and 
John   Knox;   and   a  bed-chamber,    containing    Queen 


EDINBURGH 

Mary's  bed  and  portrait,  and  portraits  of  Henry  YIII. 
and  Qnecn  Elizabeth. 

A  critical  event  in  the  history  of  the  Palace  was  the 
murder  of  Rizzio  in  1566.  Few  royal  personages  have 
occnpied  it  since  the  time  of  Queen  Marj-,  and  these 
few  only  fitfully,  and  not  much  in  the  way  of  royal 
administration.  James  VI.,  however,  resided  here  for 
longer  or  shorter  periods  at  intervals,  and  he  was  staying 
here  when  he  received  the  tidings  of  Elizabeth's  death, 
and  of  his  own  accession  to  the  throne  of  England.  It 
was  in  1633  the  scene  of  the  coronation  of  Charles  I., 
the  last  transaction  of  the  kind  its  walls  have  witnessed. 
James  VII.,  before  he  reached  the  throne,  when 
only  Duke  of  York,  resided  here  in  a  species  of  exile 
during  the  times  of  the  Popish  plot  and  the  supremacy 
of  the  AVhig  party,  and  made  it  odious  by  his  bigotry. 
The  Duke  had  a  habit  of  perambulating  a  line  of  walk 
in  the  neighbourhood  within  the  royal  park  on  the  E, 
which,  from  that  circumstance,  bore  popularly  the 
name  of  the  Duke's  Walk.  Prince  Charles  Edward,  in 
the  brief  period  of  his  presence  in  Edinburgh,  during 
the  rebellion  of  1745,  held  high  state  in  the  Palace, 
in  such  a  style  as  greatly  to  delight  the  Scottish 
Jacobites.  The  Duke  of  Cumberland,  after  crushing 
the  rebellion  on  the  field  of  Culloden,  and,  on  his 
return  to  the  S,  occupied  the  same  apartments  and 
the  same  bed  in  the  Palace  which  had  been  occupied 
by  Prince  Charles  Edward.  Charles  X.  of  France 
twice  took  up  his  abode  as  an  exile  in  these  apart- 
ments; first,  in  1795,  when  he  was  Comte  d'Artois ; 
and  again,  in  1830,  when  driven  from  his  throne  by 
the  revolution  of  that  year.  George  IV.,  during  his 
brief  sojourn  at  Dalkeith  in  1822,  held  his  levees  in 
the  picture  gallery  of  HoljTOod ;  and  Queen  Victoria 
made  similar  use  of  it  in  1842.  Queen  Victoria  with  her 
family  used  to  spend  two  nights  in  the  royal  private  apart- 
ments of  the  Palace,  on  her  way  to  and  from  Balmoral 
in  each  of  most  of  the  years  from  1850  till  1861  ;  and 
she  occupied  them  during  parts  of  three  consecutive 
days  in  October  of  the  last  of  these  years,  along  with 
the  Prince  Consort,  a  short  time  before  his  death,  when 
he  laid  the  foundation-stones  of  the  new  General  Post 
Office  and  the  National  Museum  of  Science  and  Art. 
The  enthusiasm  of  the  citizens,  on  each  of  the  occasions 
of  Queen  Victoria  and  the  Prince  Consort's  visits,  was 
fervid  and  universal  ;  great  multitudes  standing  along 
the  whole  route  from  the  royal  private  railwa}'  station 
at  St  Margaret's  to  the  Palace,  as  well  as  on  the  adjacent 
heights,  to  greet  them  with  shouts  of  lo3-alty,  and  make 
their  progress  through  the  park  an  imperial  ovation. 
The  Prince  of  Wales  inhabited  the  Palace  during  the 
session  of  his  attendance  at  Edinburgh  University  ;  and 
Queen  Victoria,  though  she  ceased  to  frequent  it  for 
many  years  after  the  death  of  Prince  Albert,  is  now 
again  paj-ing  occasional  visits  to  the  old  Palace,  and 
she  remained  in  August  1881  for  three  days  and  two 
nights,  on  the  occasion  of  the  great  review  of  Scottish 
Volunteers. 

The  site  of  the  Palace  with  the  surrounding 
grounds  is  low  and  level.  It  is  immediatel}'  E  of 
the  convergence  of  the  Calton  and  Cowgate  ravines, 
amid  all  the  Old  To\vn's  natural  drainage,  and  closely 
adjoining  the  dingy  and  malodorous  tail  of  the  Canon- 
gate  ;  and  was  for  long  and  until  lately  well-nigh 
choked  by  old  erections  and  encumbrances  on  and 
around  the  Palace-yard.  A  series  of  improvements 
was  commenced  in  1851,  and  prolonged  till  1862, 
which  eff"ected  advantageous  clearances,  and  intro- 
duced or  created  important  amenities.  A  spacious 
carriage-way  was  formed  from  Abbeyhill  southward 
across  the  W  side  of  the  Palace-3-ard  to  a  new  entrance 
into  the  Royal  Park,  this  carriage-way  bisecting  an  en- 
closed area  on  the  N  side  of  the  Palace-yard,  and  of  the 
Abbey-ruins  known  as  Queen  Mary's  Garden  ;  another 
extensive  area,  situatetl  on  the  S  side  of  the  Palace,  ami 
partly  occupied  by  the  old  dingy  houses  of  St  Ann's 
Yards,  was  cleared  and  handsomely  railed  off  and  em- 
bellished ;  a  considerable  section  of  the  iJoyal  Park, 
south-eastward,  eastward,    and    north-eastward   of  the 


EDINBURGH 

Palace,  was  conjoined  with  these  two  areas  to  form  a 
private  roj'al  garden  or  home  park,  and  enclosed  along 
the  S  and  E  sides  by  lofty  walls  ;  a  range  of  offices,  com- 
prising guard-house,  royal  mews,  and  other  conveniences, 
was  erected  in  a  castellated  style  along  the  W  side  of  the 
Palace-yard  ;  the  surface  of  the  j-ard  and  of  much  of  the 
adjacent  ground  was  all  relaid  ;  the  drainage  there  and 
all  around  was  reconstructed  or  amended  ;  and  a  vast 
amount  of  improvement  was,  at  the  same  time,  effected 
on  the  adjacent  grounds,  drives,  and  entrances  of  the 
Pioyal  Park.  A  curious  appendage  to  the  Palace,  in 
Queen  Mary's  time  and  earlier,  was  a  lions'  den,  a  small 
embellished  enclosure  adjoining  one  of  the  windows 
on  the  N,  but  it  has  entirely  disappeared.  Another 
curious  object  associated  with  Queen  Mary's  name  is 
a  sun-dial,  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lions'  den, 
which  still  stands  a  few  yards  E  of  the  new  carriage- 
way from  Abbeyhill,  has  a  graduated  octagonal  base, 
and  rises  into  a  well-formed  ornamental  head.  A 
lodge,  called  Queen  Marj-'s  bath,  formerlj'  adjoined  the 
W  entrance  to  Queen  Mary's  Garden  ;  it  looks  now,  in 
consequence  of  the  bisection  of  the  garden  by  the  new 
carriage-way,  as  if  isolated,  toward  the  W  on  the 
street-line  of  the  reach  of  Abbeyhill  toward  the  foot  of 
Canongate,  and  is  a  small,  squat,  irregularl}"  outlined 
tower,  originally  ornate,  but  afterwards  weather-worn. 
When  under  repair  about  1852,  there  was  found,  in 
the  sarking  of  its  roof,  a  richly  inlaid  ancient  dagger, 
supposed  to  have  been  stuck  there  by  the  murderers  of 
Rizzio  on  their  escape  from  the  Palace.  A  series  of 
pointed  arches  in  a  high  blank  wall  on  the  S  side  of 
thoroughfare  from  the  Palace-yard  to  Canongate,  be- 
longed to  a  Gothic  porch  and  archway  built  about  1490, 
and  serving  for  some  time  as  the  outer  entrance  to  the 
Abbey.  The  edificed  space  southward  from  that 
thoroughfare,  all  between  the  Palace-yard  and  Horse 
Wynd,  and  now  mainly  occupied  by  the  new  guard- 
house and  royal  mews,  was  the  site  of  the  ancient  mint, 
the  offices  of  the  chancellor,  the  residence  of  Rizzio,  the 
residence  of  Francis  Lord  Napier,  and  the  ancient  royal 
mews.  A  standing  sandstone  statue  of  Queen  Victoria, 
on  an  ornamental  pedestal,  with  sculptured  groups  of 
figures,  from  the  chisel  of  A.  H.  Ritchie,  was  erected  in 
the  centre  of  tlie  Palace-yard  in  1850,  but  it  was  removed 
in  1857.  An  ornamental  fountain  now  occupies  its  site, 
which  was  erected,  at  a  cost  of  £1700,  in  1859  after 
designs  by  Mr  Jlatheson,  being  a  restoration  of  a  ruined 
fountain  in  Linlithgow  Palace.  It  has  three  ranges  of 
statuettes,  representing,  in  the  highest  range,  four  old 
Canongate  heralds  ;  in  the  middle  range,  Rizzio,  Queen 
Elizabeth,  the  old  town  drummer  of  Linlithgow,  Lady 
Crawford,  the  Earl  of  Stair,  Queen  Mary,  Sir  John  Cope, 
and  Arabella  of  France  ;  in  the  lowest  range,  the  Duke 
of  Sussex,  George  Buchanan,  etc. ,  together  with  heads 
of  Shakespeare,  Oliver  Cromwell,  Edward  I.  of  England, 
and  other  celebrated  persons.  (See  The  History  of  tko 
Abbey,  Palace,  and  Cha^iKl  Eoyal  of  Holyroodhouse,  with 
an  Account  of  the  Sanctuary  for  Insolvent  Debtors,  Edinb. 
1821 ;  D.  Laing's  Eistoricnl  Description  of  the  Altar-piece 
in  the  reiyn  of  James  III.  of  Scotland,  and  hdonfjing  to 
Her  Majesty  in  the  Palace  of  Holyrood,  Edinb.  1857.) 

The  Royal  Park  extends  from  the  Palace  eastward  to 
the  vicinity  of  Jock's  Lodge,  south-eastward  to  Dudding- 
ston,  and  south-south-westward  to  the  vicinity  of 
Ne^nngton;  com  prebends  Arthur's  Seat,  Salisbury  Crags, 
part  of  St  Leonard's  Hill,  and  a  diversity  of  slope, 
hollow,  and  plane  around  these  heights.  It  measures, 
in  circumference,  nearly  5  miles,  and,  according  as  the 
reigning  sovereign  is  a  king  or  a  queen,  is  called  the 
King's  Park  or  the  Queen's  Park.  It  continued,  for 
ages  after  the  erection  of  the  Abbey,  to  bo  natural 
forest.  It  was  first  enclosed  and  improved  liy  James  V. ; 
received  rich  embellishments  in  the  time  of  Queen  Mary, 
but  lost  them  by  devastation  in  the  time  of  Cromwell ; 
passed  from  Charles  I.  to  Sir  James  Hamilton  and  his 
heirs,  who  rented  it  off  to  tenants  ;  and,  in  1844,  was 
re-purchased  by  the  Crown  for  £30,674,  put  under  the 
management  of  the  Commissioners  of  Woods  and  Forests, 
and  thereafter  subjected  to  extensive  re-improveraent. 

493 


EDINBURGH 

A  large  marsli  in  it  was  drained  ;  rough  portions  of  sur- 
face were  levelled  ;  unsightly  objects  were  removed  ; 
portions  of  its  plains  were  worked  into  fine  sward  ;  and 
a  grand  carriage -drive  round  all  its  circuit,  not  far  from 
its  margin,  was  formed.  Tliis  drive  passes  over  a  great 
diversity  of  ground  ;  commands,  in  reaches,  or  brief 
glimpses,  a  splendid  variety  of  both  near  and  distant 
views  ;  and,  except  during  night  or  at  late  hours,  is 
freely  open  to  the  public  ;  the  entire  park,  however, 
also  is  always  open  to  pedestrians.  The  park,  in 
fact,  is  practically  a  recreation  ground  for  the  citizens, 
nor  is  it  shut  or  placed  under  any  restriction  during 
the  presence  of  the  Sovereign  at  Holyrood.  A  belt 
of  plantation  was  begun  to  be  formed  in  the  latter 
part  of  1870,  which  extends  along  its  western  border 
from  near  the  entrance  at  the  Palace-yard  to  the  vicinity 
of  St  Leonard's  Hill,  follo\\'ing  the  line  of  carriage-drive, 
and  consists  of  elm,  oak,  beech,  and  other  trees  brought 
from  the  grounds  of  Linlithgow  Palace,  and  is  pro- 
tected by  a  light  iron-railing.  The  question  has  often 
been  discussed  whether  clumjis  and  belts  of  trees  would 
embellish  Arthur's  Seat  and  Salisbury  Crags,  or  whether 
they  would  not  rather  mar  the  bold,  salient,  and  strik- 
ing features  of  these  grand  romantic  heights. 

Parliament  Square. — Parliament  Close,  the  original 
of  Parliament  Square,  took  its  name  from  the  erection  in 
1631-36  of  the  Parliament  House.  It  comprised  only  a 
small  area  on  the  S  side  of  St  Giles'  Church,  communi- 
cating by  narrow  passages  with  High  Street  and  Lawn- 
market  ;  and  is,  even  in  its  present  form,  and  under  its 
present  name  of  Parliament  Square,  not  much  longer 
than  St  Giles'  Church,  and  scarcely  half  as  broad  as  it  is 
long.  The  space  occupied  by  it,  together  with  more 
on  the  southward  slope,  open  to  the  Cowgate,  was  at  first 
a  burying-ground,  the  most  ancient  of  any  note  in  the 
city,  which  had  at  length,  on  its  lower  part,  a  chapel 
of  the  Holy  Rood,  and,  at  its  NW  corner,  the  residences 
of  the  St  Giles  clergy,  and  it  was  used  exclusively  as 
such  till  the  end  of  the  16th  century,  at  which  time — 
in  1566  it  was,  by  gift  of  Queen  Mary — the  public 
burying-place  was  transferred  to  the  neighbourhood  of 
Greyfriars'  monastery  across  the  valley,  under  the  name 
ere  long  of  the  Greyfriars'  Churchyard.  About  that  time 
it  became  a  pedestrian  thoroughfare,  a  public  lounge  for 
the  lackey  sort  mainly,  and  a  place  of  crowded  resort 
noisy  with  litigants.  It  was  used,  in  1617,  as  the  scene 
of  a  splendid  banquet  to  James  VI.,  on  occasion  of  his  re- 
turn to  Scotland  ;  and,  about  the  time  of  the  erection  of 
the  Parliament  House,  was  largelj' appropriated  by  a  hete- 
rogeneous array  of  buildings,  devoted  variously  to  trade, 
law  business,  and  civil  administration.  A  congeries  of  low 
booths,  in  particular,  was  constructed  along  so  much  of 
it  as  to  leave  only  narrow  openings  past  the  ends  of  St 
Giles'  Church ;  and  this,  except  what  continued  for  long 
after  to  cluster  around  the  wall  of  St  Giles',  was  soon 
superseded  by  a  curious  and  very  lofty  range  of  build- 
ings, which  was  more  or  less  destroyed  by  great  fires  in 
1676,  1700,  and  1824,  and  afterwards  either  modified  in 
its  own  structure,  or  succeeded  liy  new  buildings.  A 
description  of  it  as  it  existed  in  its  most  characteristic 
period,  says  :  '  On  the  S  was  a  tenement  towering  to 
the  clouds,  containing  above  a  dozen  stories,  all  densely 
peopled  by  a  respectable  class  of  citizens  ;  on  the  E  was 
a  land  v.itli  a  piazza  walk  under  which  was  situated 
John's  Coffee  House,  the  resort  of  Dr  Pitcairn  and  other 
wits  of  the  day ;  and  further  on  were  the  shops  of  the 
principal  jewellers  and  booksellers,  wherein  were  wont  to 
congregate  daily  the  great  and  learned  of  the  land.' 
On  the  E  side  of  the  square  stood  John's  Coffee  Plouse, 
Sir  AVilliam  Forbes's  Bank,  and  the  printshop  of 
Kay,  the  delineator  of  the  famous  Portraits.  Now, 
however,  the  square  is  a  quiet  dignified  recess  ;  has, 
on  the  northern  part  of  its  E  side,  tlie  i)olicc  buildings, 
and  in  the  northern  part  of  the  W  side,  the  end  facade 
of  the  Signet  library  ;  and  is  edificed,  on  the  rest  of  the 
E  and  W  sides,  and  along  all  the  S  side,  by  a  uniform 
facade  on  the  buildings  of  the  Exchequer  Office,  the 
Court  of  Session,  and  the  Parliamrnt  House. 

The  police  buildings  present  a  northeni  elevation  to 
494 


EDINBURGH 

High  Street,  and  a  western  one  to  Parliament  Square  ; 
they  were  erected  in  1849,  in  plain,  neat  Italian  style, 
with  little  of  ornamental  feature,  and  Avere  enlarged 
and  improved  in  1875  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £3000.  They 
had  previously  a  plain  main  entrance  from  High  Street, 
and  now  have  it  from  Parliament  Square  ;  and  are  very 
extensive,  and  contain  excellent  accommodation  for  the 
ordinary  police  business,  and  for  courts,  collecting,  and 
superintendence.  The  uniform  range  of  facade,  belong- 
ing to  the  Exchequer  Office  and  the  Court  of  Session,  is 
partly  the  original  front  of  modern  buildings,  and  partly 
a  new  front  to  old  ones.  Its  basement  story  is  20  feet 
high,  rusticated  and  pierced  ^vith  semicircular  arches  so 
as  to  form  arcade-piazzas ;  its  central  part  projects  several 
feet,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  handsome  hexastyle  Doric 
portico  ;  its  two  retiring  portions,  instead  of  being 
angles,  are  curves ;  these  portions,  together  with  portions 
of  the  E  side  and  the  W  side,  have  columns  and  open 
galleries  uniform  with  those  of  the  portico,  and  support- 
ing a  continuous  cornice  ;  and  the  crown  of  the  entire 
wall  is  surmounted  by  a  balustrade  and  six  sphinxes. 
The  portion  formerly  occupied  by  the  Union  Bank  at 
the  E  corner,  it  is  now  proposed  to  utilise  as  an  addi- 
tional court-room  for  jury  trials,  and  partly  to  provide 
better  accommodation  for  certain  of  the  public  depart- 
ments, such  as  Her  Majesty's  "Work  Office,  etc. ;  ofiices 
will  also  be  provided  here  for  the  Under  Secretary  of 
State  for  Scotland.  The  Court  of  Session  buildings 
occupy  large  portions  of  both  the  S  and  the  W  sides  of 
the  square,  and  extend  far  back  on  the  slope  toward  the 
S  ;  have  a  height  of  40  feet  in  the  front  and  of  60  feet  in 
the  rear,  a  breadth  of  60  feet  at  the  narrowest  part  and 
of  98  feet  at  the  ■\\-idest  part,  and  a  total  length  of  133 
feet.  They  were  mainly  erected  in  1631-40  at  a  cost  of 
£14,600,  receiving  their  present  front  in  1808  ;  cannot 
now  be  distinguished  in  front  from  the  contiguous 
modern  buildings,  but  are  markedly  distinguishable  and 
very  salient  in  the  rear.  They  have  undergone,  at  various 
periods,  some  additions  and  extensive  renovations  or 
alterations  ;  and  they  include  the  court-room  of  the 
High  Court  of  Justiciary,  large  modern  elegant  court- 
rooms of  the  First  and  Second  Divisions  of  the  Court  of 
Session,  smaller  court-rooms  of  the  Lords  Ordinary,  and 
the  great  hall  of  Parliament  House. 

The  great  hall  was  the  principal  portion  of  the  erection 
of  1631-40,  costing  £11,600  ;  it  was  built  for  the  use 
of  Parliament,  which  had  previously  held  its  sittings  in 
the  Tolbooth,  and  served  that  purpose  till  the  Union  in 
1707.  It  was  long  detached  from  the  other  buildings, 
having  an  open  area  to  the  E  and  the  S ;  with  very  plain 
walls,  surmounted  by  an  ornate  parapet,  and  flanked  by 
ogee-roofed  turrets,  and  was  furnished  with  a  throne 
for  the  sovereign,  seats  for  the  peers  and  bishops,  forms 
for  county  and  burgh  representatives,  a  pulpit  for  the 
use  of  preachers,  and  a  small  gallery  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  visitors.  This  hall  is  now  an  almost  unfur- 
nished area,  serving  as  a  waiting-room  for  the  practi- 
tioners of  the  courts,  a  magnificent  promenade,  and  a 
lounge  for  visitors  ;  and  exhibits,  during  session,  a  scene 
of  great  bustle  and  animation.  It  had,  for  a  long  time, 
fittings  at  its  sides  for  the  business  of  the  Lords  Ordinary ; 
communicates,  at  the  S  end,  with  all  the  present  court- 
rooms ;  retains  the  dimensions  and  some  of  the  features 
which  belonged  to  it  in  the  times  of  the  Scottish 
parliament  ;  and  measures  122  feet  in  length  and  49 
in  breadth  and  60  in  height.  It  has  a  beautiful  oak 
floor  and  ruof — the  latter  arched  and  trussed  similarly 
to  the  roof  of  Westminster  Hall ;  is  pierced,  on  the 
W  side,  by  four  windows,  much  imjiroved  in  1870  ; 
has,  in  the  S  end,  a  large  ornamental  window  of 
stained-glass,  by  Kaulbach,  inserted  at  a  cost  of  about 
£2500,  rej)resenting  the  foundation  of  the  Court  by 
James  V.  in  1532  ;  contains  statues  of  Lords  Forbes, 
Melville,  Blair,  Dundas,  Boyle,  Jeffrey,  and  Cockburn  ; 
and  was  the  scene  of  three  splendid  banquets — the  first, 
in  1056,  to  General  Monk  and  his  officers — the  second, 
in  IGSO,  to  James,  Duke  of  York,  afterwards  James  VII. 
— tliu  third,  in  1822,  to  George  IV.  The  statue  of  Lord 
President  Forbes  of  Culloden  is  by  Roubillac,  and  waa 


EDINBURGH 

erected  in  1752  ;  represents  the  judge  in  his  robes  rest- 
ing on  his  left  arm  and  uplifting  his  right ;  and  is  an 
exquisite  work  of  art.  The  statue  of  the  first  Viscount 
Melville  in  white  marble  was  erected  in  1811,  and  is  by 
Chantrey.  That  of  Lord  President  Blair  was  also  erected 
in  1811,  and  is  likewise  by  Chantrey,  but  wants  grace- 
fulness in  disposition  ;  that  of  Lord  President  Dundas, 
in  1819,  a  recumbent  figure,  also  by  Chantrey ;  of 
Lord  President  Boyle,  in  1841,  which  is  by  Steell  ;  of 
Lord  Jeffrey,  in  1850,  likewise  by  Steell  ;  and  that  of 
Lord  Cockburn,  in  1854,  by  Brodie.  The  hall  con- 
tains also  fine  portraits  of  Lord  Advocate  Dundas,  Lord 
Justice-Clerk  Hope,  Lords  Robertson,  Colonsay,  Aber- 
cromb}^,  and  of  Professor  Bell ;  also  a  full  length  por- 
trait of  Lord  Brougham,  as  chancellor  of  the  university, 
by  Macnee. 

The  Advocates  Library  occupies  a  group  of  buildings, 
partly  beneath  the  ParKament  House,  partly  projecting 
westward  from  it,  has  rear-fronts  towards  George  IV. 
Bridge,  with  access  thence,  and  is  accessible  also  by 
flights  of  steps  from  a  door  at  the  NW  curve  of  Parlia- 
ment Square.  Erected  with  reference  solely  to  accom- 
modation, and  without  any  proper  puljlic  frontage,  the 
librarj-  stood  here  originally  amid  a  mass  of  narrow 
old  lanes,  on  ground  much  lower  than  that  of  the 
open  area  of  Parliament  Square.  It  presents  to  George 
IV.  Bridge  a  somewhat  unsightly  appearance,  though 
that  is  relieved  by  modern  decoration  ;  and  it  has  long 
been  designed  to  have  an  elegant  extension,  with  main 
frontage  and  grand  entrance  in  that  quarter.  It  includes 
two  noble  and  \cvy  elegant  rooms,  on  different  floors, 
with  busts  or  other  sculptures  of  George  II.,  Baron 
Hume,  Lord  Erskine,  Lord  Jeffre)^,  Lord  Rutherfurd, 
and  Sir  Walter  Scott,  and  with  portraits  of  Sir  George 
Mackenzie,  Lord  Presidents  Spottiswood,  Forbes,  and 
Lockhart,  as  well  as  other  famous  lawyers.  The  library 
originally  occupied  apartments  in  a  gi-oup  of  lofty  old 
houses  in  the  south-eastern  vicinity  of  Parliament 
Square,  where  the  library  was  founded  by  Sir  George 
Mackenzie  in  1682,  and  where  it  made  a  narrow  escape 
from  utter  destruction  bj'  a  gi-eat  fire.  It  is  one  of  five 
libraries  entitled  to  a  copy  of  every  book  published  in 
Great  Britain;  contains  upwards  of  250,000  printed 
volumes,  about  2000  manuscripts,  and  a  varied  collection 
of  literary  curiosities.  Of  these  there  may  be  mentioned 
a  maifuscript  Bible  of  St  Jerome's  translation,  believed 
to  have  been  written  in  the  eleventh  century,  and  kno^Ti 
to  have  been  used  as  the  conventual  copy  in  the  abbey  of 
Dunfermline  ;  a  copy,  in  two  volumes,  of  the  first  printed 
Bible  by  Faust  and  Guttenburg,  printed  in  bold  black 
letter,  and  supposed  to  be  worth  over  £3000 ;  the 
Gospels,  in  the  Tamul  language,  written  upon  dried 
leaves  or  weeds ;  five  parchment  copies,  in  MS. ,  of 
the  National  Covenant  of  1638,  with  the  actual  signa- 
tures of  Rothes,  Montrose,  Loudon,  and  others ;  letters 
of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots ;  the  AVoodrow  manuscripts  ; 
the  first  stereotype  plates ;  the  original  manuscript  of 
Waverley,  ancient  classics,  etc.  Among  the  chief 
librarians  have  been  Thomas  Ruddiman,  David  Hume, 
Adam  Ferguson,  Dr  Irving,  and  Samuel  Halkett ,  and 
it  is  very  liberally  accessible  to  visitors.  That  part  of 
the  library  beneath  the  Parliament  House  included  at 
one  time  the  Star  Chamber  and  a  State  prison,  and  was 
long  called  the  Laigh  Parliament  House.  It  comprised 
several  apartments,  all  inconvenient,  dark,  and  ill- 
ventilated,  but  these  underwent  sweeping  improvement 
in  1870-71,  and  are  now  all  one  hall,  measuring  about 
130  feet  in  length,  45  in  width,  and  20  in  height,  divided 
from  end  to  end  along  the  centre  by  a  series  of  plain 
optagon  stone  piers  with  intermediate  arches. 

The  Sigiut  Library  adjoins  Parliament  House  on  the 
N,  and  extends  to  the  W.  It  presents  uniform  eleva- 
tions, in  the  Grecian  style,  of  two  stories,  to  Parlia- 
ment Square  and  County  Square  ;  has  a  lower  apart- 
ment, 170  feet  long,  40  wide,  and  22  high,  with  two 
rows  of  Corinthian  pillars  and  open  arches  dividing  it 
into  unequal  sections  ;  and  includes  a  splendid  staircase, 
adorned  with  busts  and  portraits  of  eminent  lawyers, 
leading  to  an  upper  hall  of  magnificent  character,  pro- 


EDINBUBGH 

bably  the  largest  and  most  superb  of  its  kind  in  Scot- 
land,  erected  at  a  cost  of  £25,000,  which  belonged 
once  to  the  Faculty  of  Advocates,  but  passed  from  them 
by  purchase.  The  library  contains  about  65, 800  volumes, 
exclusive  of  pamphlets  and  tracts  ;  it  was  begun  to  be 
collected  about  the  middle  of  last  century  ;  and  is  pecu- 
liarly rich  in  works  on  topography,  antiquities,  bio- 
graphy, and  British  and  Irish  history.  It  is  maintained 
entirely  by  the  contributions  of  the  "Writers  to  the 
Queen's  Signet ;  and,  like  the  Advocates  Librarj-,  is  liber- 
ally accessible  to  visitors.  Its  upper  ajiartment  measures 
142  feet  in  length  and  42  in  breadtli,  has  a  richly- 
panelled  arched  ceiling,  supported  by  24  pillars  and  36 
pilasters  in  Corinthian  style,  and  is  divided  by  the  pillars 
into  three  compartments,  the  central  one  crowned  by  a 
cupola.  It  is  enriched  with  oil-paintings  of  Apollo,  the 
Muses,  and  well-known  historians,  ^jhilosophers,  and 
poets,  and  was  used  as  a  drawing-room  by  George  IV. 
on  the  day  of  the  banquet  in  Parliament  House.  For 
about  forty  j-ears  the  venerable  scholar,  the  late  David 
Laing,  was  its  chief  librarian. 

Judicial  Buildings. — A  gloomy  edifice  which  .served 
successively  as  a  parliament  hall,  a  justiciary  court,  and 
a  metropolitan  prison,  stood  along  the  junction  of  High 
Street  and  Lawnmarket ;  extended,  in  oblong  form,  from 
E  to  W ;  and  was  separated  from  the  northern  house - 
line  by  a  roadway  14  feet  wide,  and  from  the  N"\V  comer 
of  St  Giles'  Church  by  a  narrow  lane  for  pedestrians. 
It  eventually  bore  the  name  of  Old  Tolbooth,  and  figures 
in  one  of  the  most  famous  of  Sir  AValter  Scott's  novels  as 
the  'Heart  of  Midlothian.'  It  comprised  three  structures 
— eastern,  middle,  and  western  ;  and,  on  account  of  its 
greatly  obstructing  the  thoroughfare,  was  all  demolished 
in  1817,  the  gate,  with  the  keys,  being  given  to  Sir 
Walter  Scott,  and  placed  by  him  in  Abbotsford.  The 
eastern  structure  was  built  about  1468  ;  consisted  of  a 
massive  square  tower  of  polished  stone,  with  four  main 
stories  and  an  attic,  and  with  a  spiral  stair  ;  had  a  char- 
acter resembling  a  strong  Border  fortalice  ;  and  was  origi- 
nally the  residence  of  the  dean  or  provost  of  St  Giles'  col- 
legiate church-  The  middle  structure  was  buUt  in  1561, 
by  order  of  Queen  Mary,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  tol- 
booth ;  was  a  plain  oblong  pile  of  rubble  work  ;  and, 
like  the  eastern  structure,  had  four  main  stories  and  an 
attic.  The  western  structure  was  built  at  a  much  later 
period  ;  was  of  comparatively  small  size,  and  only  two 
stories  high  ;  and  had  a  flat  roof  for  public  executions. 
The  eastern  structure,  from  first  to  last  the  chief  scene 
of  historical  interest,  formed,  in  the  16th  century,  the 
scene  of  the  councils  of  state,  the  supreme  courts  of 
justice,  and  several  great  parliaments  ;  was  the  place  of 
the  queen's  councils,  in  1572,  at  the  period  of  her 
sharpest  contest  ^vith  her  nobles  ;  witnessed,  in  1596, 
the  origination  of  the  tumult  which  drove  the  king  from 
the  city  ;  and  was  afterwards  used  as  a  lower  prison  for 
debtors,  an  upper  prison  for  criminals,  and  a  surmounting 
strong  box  for  the  worst  of  convicts.  The  gi'ound  floor 
of  nearly  the  entire  pile  was  eventually  converted  into 
shops,  and  the  upper  parts  of  the  middle  structure  came 
to  be  used  mainly  as  a  debtor's  prison.  The  central 
part  of  the  site  is  now  indicated  b)-  the  figure  of  a  heart 
in  the  causeway. 

The  County  HaU  stands  at  right  angles  with  the 
western  extremity  of  the  Signet  Library,  and  presents  a 
main  front  to  County  Square,  an  ornamental  side  front 
to  Lawnmarket,  and  (beuig  erected  while  tall  tenements 
screened  it  to  the  W)  a  very  plain  rear  front  to  George 
IV.  Bridge.  It  was  built  in  1817,  after  a  design  by 
Archibald  Elliot,  at  a  cost  of  £15,000.  The  main  front 
wasmodelled  after  the  temple  of  Erectheus  at  Athens;  has 
a  main  entrance  from  a  lofty  and  very  broad  platform, 
reached  by  a  flight  of  steps ;  and  is  adorned  with  four 
large,  fine,  fluted  columns,  surmounted  In'  a  pediment. 
The  court-room  measures  43^  feet  in  length,  29  in 
width,  and  26  in  height,  and  has  a  gallery  at  the  S 
end.  The  room  for  the  county  meetings  measures  50 
feet  in  length,  26i  in  width,  and  26  in  height,  and  is 
very  handsome.  In  the  hall  is  a  statue  by  Chantrey  of 
Lord  Chief  Baron  Dundas.    The  Sheriff-Court  Buildings 

495 


EDINBURGH 

stand  on  the  E  side  of  George  IV.  Bridge  immediately  N 
of  the  bridge's  open  arches ;  were  erected  in  1866-68,  after 
designs  by  David  Bryce,  at  a  cost  of  more  than 
£44,000  ;  are  in  the  Italian  style,  with  considerable 
ornature  ;  have  a  very  lofty  rear  elevation,  and  an 
imposing  front  one ;  and  contain  ample  accommodation 
for  the  sheriff's  court  and  for  the  olficcs  of  the  various 
functionaries.  The  City  Council-Eoom  and  the  Burgh 
Court-Room  are  in  the  Royal  Exchange  buildings. 

Exchanges. — The  Royal  Exchange  stands  on  the  N 
side  of  High  Street,  nearly  opposite  the  E  end  of  St 
Giles'  Church.  The  foundation-stone  having  been  laid 
with  full  masonic  honours,  by  Provost  Drummond  as 
grand-master,  on  the  13th  of  September  1753,  it  was, 
after  some  delay,  completed  in  1/61  at  a  cost  of 
£31,457,  and  occasioned  the  removal  of  several  ancient 
lanes  and  ruinous  houses.  It  has  the  form  of  an 
open  quadrangle,  or  of  a  square  Avith  open  court,  and 
measures  111  feet  from  E  to  "W,  182  feet  from  S  to  N, 
and  86  feet  by  96  in  the  open  court,  and  stands  on  such 
a  slope  northward  that,  while  the  end  parts  in  its 
front  elevation  have  a  height  of  60  feet,  all  the  rear 
elevation  has  a  height  of  100  feet.  The  S  side,  ex- 
cept at  the  ends,  that  is,  co-extensively  with  the  breadth 
of  the  court,  consists  of  a  range  of  seven  archways, 
about  25  feet  high,  adorned  with  balustrade  and  vases, 
and  roofed  with  a  platform.  The  central  archway  is 
open,  and  forms  the  entrance  to  the  court ;  but  the 
other  archways  are  built  up  and  constructed  into  shops. 
Two  wings  extend  northward  from  the  end  of  the  arch- 
ways, are  60  feet  high  on  the  street-line,  and  have  a 
length  of  131  feet  to  the  front  line  of  the  main  building 
in  rear  of  the  court.  The  building  is  faced  at  the  base- 
ment by  an  arcade-piazza;  rises  into  view  from  the  street 
over  the  front  range  with  archway ;  and  is  adorned  in  its 
central  part  with  four  Corinthian  pilasters,  surmounted 
by  a  pediment,  sculptured  with  the  city  arms.  The 
edifice  contains  the  City  Council  Chamber,  the  Lord 
Provost's  apartments,  the  Burgh  Court-Room,  and  a 
variety  of  offices  connected  with  the  public  affairs  of 
the  city ;  it  has  a  hanging  stair  20  feet  square  and  60 
feet  deep,  ascending  to  its  upper  floors ;  and,  in  1871, 
underwent  extensive  interior  alterations — improving 
the  chief  apartments.  The  ancient  convention  of  royal 
burghs  holds  its  sittings  in  the  Council  Chamber  yearly. 
This  convention,  which  is  now  little  other  than  a  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce,  is  a  representative  assembly,  consist- 
ing of  two  deputies  from  each  burgh,  and  is  presided 
over  by  the  Lord  Provost  for  the  time  being.  A  pro- 
posal was  made  in  the  early  part  of  1871  to  reface,  in 
an  ornamental  stj-le,  the  N  front  of  the  edifice,  so  as  to 
improve  its  dingy  appearance  as  seen  from  the  New 
Town  ;  but  this  was  not  carried  into  effect. 

The  Corn  Exchange  stands  on  the  S  side  of  the  Grass- 
market,  towards  the  W  end ;  was  erected  in  1849,  after  a 
design  by  Mr  Cousin,  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £20,000  ;  and 
is  a  massive  and  elegant  structure  in  the  Italian  style, 
well  suited  to  its  .site  and  uses.  Its  facade  comprises  a 
main  front  of  three  stories,  98  feet  long  and  60  feet  high, 
and  two  small  wings  recessed  13  feet  from  the  line  of  the 
main  front,  both  of  them  containing  staircases,  and  the 
western  one  surmounted  by  a  bell-tower.  The  doorway 
is  adorned  with  two  rustic  Doric  columns  ;  the  windows 
have  ornate  mouldings,  and  are  varied  in  design  in  all 
the  three  stories.  The  portion  of  the  edifice  equal  in 
height  to  the  fa9ade  extends  only  so  far  as  to  contain 
the  vestibule  ;  and  the  main  part  for  business,  in  which 
the  sample-bags  of  grain  are  ranged  in  line  for  inspection, 
extends  to  the  rear  over  a  distance  of  152  feet.  It  has  an 
elevation  and  an  outline  similar  to  those  of  a  railway 
station  ;  and  is  lighted  entirely  from  the  roof,  in  a  triple 
arrangement  of  patent  tile-glass,  supported  by  two  rows 
of  metal  pillars.  The  Corn  Exchange  is  often  used  for 
great  public  meetings,  political,  municipal,  and  mis- 
cellaneous. 

Banks.— The  Bank  of  Scotland,  established  in  1695, 

stands  terraced  on  the  northern  slope  of  the  Old  Town 

hill.    It  presents  its  entrance-front,  or  rather  the  middle 

portions  of  that  front,  to  the  S  extension  of  Bank  Street, 

496 


EDINBURGH 

looking  toward  George  IV.  Bridge,  and  its  rear-front, 
rising  from  a  lofty  arched  substructure,  conspicuously 
and  picturesquely,  to  East  Princes  Street  Gardens  con- 
tributiug  an  additional  feature  to  the  Old  Town,  being 
seen  from  most  of  Princes  Street.  It  was  originally 
built  in  1806,  after  a  design  by  Richard  Crichton,  at  a 
cost  of  £75,000,  and  underwent  restoration,  reconstruc- 
tion, and  an  addition  to  the  extent  of  two  wings  in 
1868-70,  after  designs  by  David  Brj-ce.  It  is  in  the 
Italian  style,  originally  somewhat  plain,  but  now  highly 
ornate  ;  and  comprises  campanile  towers,  a  great  central 
dome,  and  surmounting  pieces  of  statuary.  It  has,  on 
the  apex  of  its  central  dome,  a  gi'aceful  but  diminutive- 
looking  figure  of  Fame,  cast  in  zinc,  and  gilt,  and 
measures  175  feet  in  length  of  fagade,  55  feet  in  height 
of  its  front  fagade,  90  i'eet  in  height  of  its  campanile 
towers,  and  112  feet  in  total  height  from  the  pavement 
at  its  front  in  Bank  Street  to  the  top  of  its  dome. 

The  new  Union  Bank,  built  in  lieu  of  former  premises 
below  the  Exchequer  Chambers  in  Parliament  Square, 
stands  on  the  S  side  of  George  Street,  a  little  E  of 
Frederick  Street.  It  was  erected  near  the  end  of  1874 ;  is 
in  ornate  Italian  style,  after  designs  by  David  Br)^ce  ; 
and  with  a  frontage  of  more  than  100  feet,  extends  back- 
ward to  Rose  Street  Lane.  It  rises  from  a  sunk  basement 
to  a  height  of  three  stories,  cro^vned  with  attics  ;  is 
screened  from  the  pavement  by  a  handsome  stone 
balustrade  ;  presents  three  Ionic  porticos  at  separate  en- 
trances ;  shows,  on  the  first  and  the  second  floors, 
ranges  of  nine  windows,  each  flanked  with  richly-headed 
pilasters,  and  sui'mounted  by  a  triangular  pediment ;  and 
terminates,  on  the  wall  head,  in  a  bold  cornice,  support- 
ing a  balustrade.  It  contains  a  magnificent  telling-room, 
fully  80  feet  long  and  nearly  50  wide  ;  and  is  arranged, 
through  all  the  interior,  in  a  style  of  commodious 
elegance.  The  Clydesdale  Bank  stands  at  the  E  corner 
of  George  Street  and  North  Hanover  Street,  with  its 
principal  front  to  George  Street,  but  a  longer  front  to 
North  Hanover  Street.  It  was  erected  in  1842  for  the 
Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  Bank,  now  extinct ;  is  adorned 
with  Corinthian  pillars  and  pilasters,  and  with  hand- 
some stone  balcony ;  and  has  an  elegant  and  commodious 
interior.  The  Commercial  Bank,  established  in  1810, 
stands  on  the  S  side  of  George  Street,  midway  between 
Hanover  Street  and  St  Andrew  Square  ;  was  built  in 
1847  after  designs  by  David  Rhind ;  and  has  a  fagade 
95  feet  long,  with  profusely  decorated  windows,  and  a 
superb  Corinthian  portico.  It  is  entered  through  a 
lofty  spacious  vestibule,  surrounded  by  a  gallerj', 
adorned  with  tiers  resting  on  Ionic  columns,  and 
lighted  from  a  panelled  roof,  supported  by  Corinthian 
columns  rising  in  the  same  line  with  the  columns  sup- 
porting the  gallery  ;  and  has  a  telling-room  90  feet  long 
and  50  wide,  with  dome  roof  supported  by  Corinthian 
columns,  the  entire  entablature  and  dome  enriched  with 
flowing  ornaments  in  alto-relief.  The  portico  on  the 
fagade  rises  from  the  platform  of  a  flight  of  steps,  with 
6  fluted  columns  35  feet  high,  and  with  bold,  graceful, 
well-relieved  capitals  ;  the  entablature  is  9  feet  broad  ; 
the  pediment  measures  15i  feet  from  base  to  apex  ;  and 
the  tympanum  is  filled  with  a  sculptural  embodiment 
in  high  relief,  from  the  chisel  of  A.  Handyside 
Ritchie,  of  commercial,  manufacturing,  and  agricultural 
enterprise.  The  group  of  statuary  comprises  a  central 
figure  of  Caledonia  on  a  pedestal,  supported  at  the  sides 
by  figures  of  Prudence,  Ceres,  Agriculture,  Commerce, 
Enterprise,  Manufactures,  Mechanical  Science,  and 
Learning ;  this  group  is  also  figured  on  the  notes  of 
the  Bank. 

The  National  Bank,  established  in  1825,  stands 
on  the  E  side  of  St  Andrew  Square,  at  the  corner  of 
"West  Register  Street.  It  was  originally  a  large  private 
mansion,  one  of  the  earliest  aristocratic  structures  of 
the  New  Town  ;  underwent  rearward  enlargement  in 
1868  ;  and  is  exteriorly  a  plain  edifice,  but  interiorly 
commodious  and  handsome.  The  British  Linen  Com- 
pany's Bank,  established  in  1746,  stands  on  the  E  side 
of  St  Andrew  Square,  immediately  N  of  the  National 
Bank  ;  was  built  in  1852,  after  designs  by  David  Bryce, 


EDINBURGH 

at  a  cost  of  £30,000  ;  anJ  is  a  magnificent  edifice,  in  a 
rich  variety  of  the  Palladian  style.  Its  front  shows  a 
rusticated  basement  storj'  and  two  upper  stories,  and  is 
about  60  feet  high.  The  windows  of  the  basement 
story  are  plain ;  those  of  the  second  story  have  decorated 
pediments  and  carved  trusses,  the  tympanums  filled 
^vith  sculpture  ;  while  those  of  the  third  story  have  small 
balconies  supported  on  carved  consoles  and  massive 
wreaths  of  ash-leaves,  suspended  by  rosettes  at  the  top 
of  the  architraves.  Six  fluted  Corinthian  columns  rise 
from  the  basement  to  the  height  of  about  31  feet,  inclu- 
sive of  their  pedestals  ;  and  all  stand  in  individual 
isolation,  like  those  of  the  triumphal  arches  at  Rome. 
A  balustrade,  about  4  feet  high,  on  the  top  of  the  base- 
ment cornice,  runs  between  the  pedestals.  The  entabla- 
ture of  the  columns  is  about  7  feet  high,  has  a  finely 
sculptured  frieze  in  alto-relief,  and  is  recessed  from  the 
sides  of  each  column  to  nearly  the  face  of  the  wall.  Six 
statues,  each  8  feet  high,  from  the  chisel  of  A.  H.  Ritchie, 
representing  Agriculture,  Llechanics,  Architecture,  In- 
dustry, Commerce,  and  Navigation,  stand  on  the  entabla- 
ture over  the  columns.  A  balustrade,  about  7  feet  high, 
on  the  top  of  the  wall,  perpendicular  with  its  face,  runs 
behind  the  statues.  The  interior  of  the  building  is 
entered  by  a  flight  of  steps,  and  by  a  lobby  15  feet  wide. 
The  telling-room  is  a  splendid  cruciform  saloon,  74  feet 
by  69,  lighted  by  a  cupola  30  feet  in  diameter,  and  50 
feet  high.  The  floor  is  a  brilliant  mosaic  of  encaustic 
tiles ;  the  roof  is  supported  by  eight  Corinthian  columns 
and  twenty-four  Corinthian  pUasters,  their  pedestals  of 
marble,  their  shafts  of  polished  Peterhead  syenite,  their 
capitals  of  bronze  ;  and  a  panelled  arrangement  beneath 
the  cupola  contains  allegorical  figures  of  Mechanics, 
Science,  Poetry,  and  History,  and  busts  of  the  founder  of 
the  Bank  of  England,  George  Buchanan,  Adam  Smith, 
Fletcher  of  Saltoun,  Lord  Kames,  Dr  Duncan,  Xapier 
of  Merchiston,  Sir  Walter  Scott,  Professor  "Wilson, 
Renuie,  Watt,  and  Wilkie.  The  proprietors'  room 
is  in  the  second  story,  and  measures  54  feet  in 
length,  22  in  breadth,  and  18^  in  height.  The 
Eoyal  Bank,  established  in  1727,  stands  at  the  head  of 
an  enclosed  and  paved  recess  on  the  E  side  of  St  Andrew 
Square,  immediately  N  of  the  British  Linen  Com- 
pany's Bank,  and  directly  confronting  George  Street. 
It  was  originally  the  town  mansion  of  Sir  Lawrence 
Dundas,  the  ancestor  of  the  Earl  of  Zetland  ;  was  built, 
after  a  design  by  Sir  William  Chambers,  on  the  model 
of  a  villa  near  Rome  ;  and  passed  by  sale  to  the  Board 
of  Trade,  and  afterwards  to  the  Royal  Bank.  It  presents 
a  neat  front,  with  four  Corinthian  pilasters,  surmounted 
bj'  a  pediment,  with  a  sculpture  of  the  royal  arms.  All 
the  banks  have  sub-offices  in  different  parts  throughout 
the  whole  city. 

Insurance  Offices. — The  Life  Association  Office  stands 
m  Princes  Street,  nearly  opposite  the  Mound,  and  was 
built  in  1855-58.  It  is  a  splendid  edifice,  rising  to  the 
height  of  three  double  stories,  each  with  main  lights 
and  attics,  and  having  a  -u^dth  proportionate  to  its 
height ;  and  looks,  at  first  sight,  as  if  covered  all  over 
its  fa9ade  with  colonnades  and  sculptures.  The  basement 
story  is  in  rusticated  Doric,  and  has  a  grand  central 
archway,  the  second  is  Ionic,  and  the  third  Corin- 
thian ;  the  basement  story  being  divided  from  the 
second,  and  the  second  from  the  third,  by  a  cornice  and 
a  balustrade.  Both  of  the  upper  stories  have  ranges  of 
columns  between  the  windows,  and  pairs  of  small  pillars 
adjoining  the  sides  of  the  main  lights  ;  and  these  lights 
are  recessed  and  arched,  and  have  spaces  over  them 
filled  with  elaborate  sculptures.  Only  a  part  of  the 
edifice  is  occupied  by  the  Life  Association  ;  and  the  rest 
is  disposed  in  shops,  a  hotel,  and  rented  offices.  The 
Scottish  Widows'  Fund  Life  Assurance  Oflice  is  on 
the  W  side  of  St  Andrew  Square,  at  the  corner  of  Rose 
Street.  It  was  built  in  1843  by  the  Western  Bank  Com- 
pany, stood  a  considerable  time  unoccupied  after  that 
Company's  failure  in  1857,  and  was  then  sold  to  its 
present  owners  at  a  price  greatly  below  its  original 
cost.  It  is  a  large,  elegant,  symmetrical  edifice  in  the 
Florentine  style,  with  screen  balustrade,  neat  porch, 
32 


EDINBURGH 

handsome  window-mouldings,  and  heavy  projecting 
roof.  The  Scottish  Provident  Institution,  on  tho 
S  side  of  St  Andrew  Square,  a  little  E  of  St  David 
Street,  was  erected  in  1867,  and  is  an  elegant  edifice 
in  Italian  style.  The  Standard  Insurance  Company'.s 
Office,  on  the  N  side  of  George  Street,  near  St  Andrew 
Square,  has  a  neat  attached  Corinthian  portico, 
showing  on  the  tympanum  a  group  of  sculpture  by 
Steele,  representing  the  parable  of  the  Ten  Virgins. 
The  Caledonian  Insurance  Company's  Office  stands  in 
the  same  line  of  street  a  little  further  W,  and  has  four 
beautiful  Corinthian  columns,  with  massive  entablature. 
The  Edinburgh  Life  Insurance  Company's  Oflfice  is  on 
the  S  side  of  George  Street,  a  little  E  of  Hanover  Street, 
and  was  formerly  partly  occupied  by  the  Antiquarian 
Museum.  It  has  Doric  features  and  two  porches  in  its 
basement  story,  Corinthian  features  in  its  second  story, 
and  a  massive  cornice  and  a  balustrade  on  its  summit. 
The  North  British  and  Mercantile  Insurance  Company's 
Office  stands  in  Princes  Street,  to  the  E  of  Hanover 
Street,  and  has  a  neat,  projected  basement  story,  sur- 
mounted by  a  statue  of  St  Andrew  with  his  cross.  The 
Scottish  Union  and  National  Insurance  Company  occupy 
the  handsome  building  formerly  used  as  Douglas'  Hotel 
in  St  Andrew  Square.  There  are  no  fewer  than  about 
SO  other  insurance  offices,  many,  however,  being  merely 
branches,  having  their  headquarters  elsewhere,  but  some 
of  their  buildings  are  highly  ornamental. 

Post  Office. — The  Post  Office  occupied  formerly  part  of 
the  buildings  on  the  S  side  of  Waterloo  Place,  con- 
tiguous to  the  E  side  of  Regent  Bridge,  and  was  distin- 
guished from  the  other  adjoining  edifices  mainly  by  a 
spacious  open  porch,  and  by  being  surmounted  with  a 
a  sculpture  in  relief  of  the  royal  arms.  It  was  built  in 
1819  at  a  cost  of  £15,000  ;  underwent  sweeping  changes 
in  the  interior  of  its  basement  story  after  its  relin- 
quishment for  post  office  uses,  and  is  now  occupied  as 
an  hotel.  The  new  Post  Oflice  stands  at  the  E  corner  of 
Princes  Street  and  North  Bridge,  and  occupies  the  sites  of 
the  old  Theatre  Royal  and  of  Shakespeare  Square.  The 
foundation-stone  was  laid  on  23  Oct.  1861  by  the  late 
Prince  Consort,  almost  the  last  public  act  of  his  life  ;  and 
it  was  opened  for  business  in  May  1866.  It  cost,  inclusive 
of  the  site,  about  £120,000,  and  is  a  magnificent  edifice, 
in  a  moderately  rich  type  of  the  Italian  style,  after 
designs  by  Robert  Matheson.  It  forms  an  imperfect 
quadrangle  ;  measures  140  feet  in  breadth  from  E  to  W, 
160  along  the  E  side,  and  180  in  length  along  the  W 
side  ;  includes  a  central  open  area,  measuring  54  feet  by 
30  ;  and  has  three  exposed  fronts  toward  respectively 
the  N,  the  W,  and  the  S.  The  N  front,  toward  Princes 
Street,  is  the  principal  one,  and  contains  the  public 
entrance  ;  faces  a  pavement  43  feet  wide,  composed  of 
large  beautiful  slabs,  with  a  broad  flight  of  outside  steps 
ascending  to  a  chastely  decorated  vestibule,  measuring 
34  feet  by  32  ;  and  consists  of  a  recessed  centre  two 
stories  high,  and  massive  tower-like  wings  three  stories 
high.  The  recessed  centre  is  pierced  with  three  lofty 
circular-headed  arches,  resting  on  massive  piers,  and 
giving  entrance  to  the  vestibule  ;  has,  on  each  side  of 
the  basement  story,  a  window  of  a  character  corresponding 
to  the  entrance  arches  ;  shows,  in  the  upper  story,  five 
windows  with  balustrades  in  front,  and  ■with  alternately 
circular  and  angular  pediments  ;  and  is  decorated  with 
single  Corinthian  columns,  flanking  the  windows.  The 
basement  story  of  each  wing  is  rusticated,  and  contains 
three  richly  moulded  circular-headed  windows ;  the 
second  story  rises  over  an  enriched  belt  course,  contains 
in  each  of  the  exposed  sides  three  balustraded  windows 
with  alternately  circular  and  angular  pediments,  and  is 
adorned  with  pairs  of  Corinthian  columns  flanking  the 
central  window,  and  surmounted  by  a  massive  circular 
pediment  extending  into  the  third  story  ;  and  the  third 
story  has  circular-headed  windows,  with  moulded  archi- 
traves and  imposts,  and  divided  by  pairs  of  pilasters. 
The  W  front  is  entirely  similar  to  the  N  front,  with 
the  exception  that  it  has  no  vestibule.  The  S 
front  is  recessed  like  the  N  and  the  W  fronts,  but  is 
three  stories  high  from  the  street-line,  and,  in  consc- 

497 


EDINBURGH 

quence  of  rapid  slope  of  the  site,  rises  125  feet  in  height 
from  the  foundation  ;  so  that,  as  seen  from  below  the 
bridge,  it  presents  a  very  commanding  appearance.  A 
massive  cornice  and  balustrades  surmount  all  the  three 
fronts,  and  the  balustrades  are  intersected  at  intervals 
by  pedestals  supporting  ornamental  vases.  The  number 
of  Corinthian  columns  on  the  N  and  W  fronts  is  68  ; 
each  being  16  feet  high,  and  consisting  of  a  single  stone. 
The  interior  contains  spacious  saloons  and  numerous 
apartments,  constructed  in  excellent  adaptation  to  the 
business  of  the  office  ;  is  everywhere  well  lighted  and 
ventilated  ;  and  has  ample  accommodation,  not  only  for 
the  present  business  of  the  office,  but  also  for  almost 
any  increase  which  may  eventually  arise.  There  are 
3  branch  offices,  with  working  staffs,  at  71  George 
Street,  2  Lynedoch  Place,  and  41  South  Clerk  Street; 
and  there  are  also  throughout  the  city  nearly  80  pillar 
posts  and  receiving  offices,  of  the  latter  of  which  about 
15  are  telegraph  stations,  and  30  money  order  and 
savings'  bank  offices. 

A  Telephonic  Company  has  its  head  office  in  Frederick 
Street,  Avith  several  branch  stations  throughout  the  city. 

Jlcgister  House. — The  General  Register  House  of  Scot- 
land not  only  contains  the  registers  of  sasines,  inhibi- 
tions, and  adjudications,  but  also  the  national  records, 
the  official  writings  of  the  clerks  and  extractors  of  the 
Court  of  Session,  Jury  Court,  Court  of  Justiciary,  the 
Great  and  Privy  Seal,  the  Chancery,  the  Lord  Lyon's 
office,  and  of  the  Bill  Chamber,  and  the  duplicate  regis- 
trations of  births,  marriages,  and  deaths.  The  ancient 
national  records  were  destroyed  by  Edward  L  and  by 
Cromwell ;  while  those  of  later  date,  prior  to  the  building 
of  the  Register  House,  were  almost  inaccessible,  lay  con- 
stantly exposed  to  risk  of  destruction  by  fire,  and  suffered 
much  injury  from  damp.  The  Register  House  was  erected 
both  for  the  safe  keeping  of  these  records  and  for  the 
depositing  of  property  documents,  in  such  arrangement 
that  they  could  be  promptly  found  when  wanted.  The 
records  of  the  proceedings  in  suits  determined  by  the  Court 
of  Session  to  the  year  1868,  and  the  original  deeds  and 
protests  registered  for  preservation  till  that  year,  occu- 
pied the  shelving  of  twenty-one  distinct  apartments  in 
the  Register  House,  and  were  likely  to  accumulate  in 
increasing  ratio  ;  while  the  volumes  containing  other 
records  affecting  property,  chiefly  folios,  amounted  in 
the  same  year  to  no  fewer  than  42,835,  and  it  was  anti- 
cipated that  they  would  have  an  annual  average  increase 
of  not  fewer  than  490.  The  general  register  of  sasines 
began  on  1  Jan.  1869  to  be  conducted  on  a  new  an-ange- 
ment,  comprising  so  many  as  thirty -five  separate  series. 

The  Register  House,  till  1860,  was  only  one  building, 
but  it  now  includes  two  additional  ones,  comijleted  in 
respectively  1860  and  1871.  The  original  Register 
House  stands  at  the  E  end  of  Princes  Street,  opposite 
North  Bridge  ;  was  built  partly  in  1774-76,  partly  in 
1822-26,  after  designs  by  Robert  Adam,  in  tlio  Italian 
style,  and  cost  about  £80,000.  An  elegant  curtain 
wall,  on  each  side  of  a  central,  spacious,  double  flight 
of  steps,  divides  a  space  in  front  of  it  from  the  street ; 
it  stood  originally  at  a  distance  of  40  feet  from  the 
facade,  but  was  brought  nearer  and  considerably  im- 
proved, in  1850.  The  double  flight  of  steps  has  hand- 
some balustrades,  and  leads  up  to  the  principal  entrance. 
The  front  of  the  edifice  is  200  feet  long,  has  a  basement 
story  mostly  concealed  by  the  structures  in  front  of  it, 
and  two  uj>per  stories  full  in  view,  and  is  ornamented 
from  end  to  end  with  a  beautiful  Corinthian  entabla- 
ture. It  projects  slightly  in  its  central  portion,  and  is 
adorned  there  with  four  Corintliian  pilasters  surmounted 
by  a  pediment,  in  fonn  of  an  attached  portico  ;  has,  in 
the  tympanum  of  the  ])cdiment,  a  sculpture  of  the  roj'al 
arms ;  and  is  crowned,  in  a  slightly  projecting  part  at 
each  end,  by  a  clock-turret,  terminating  in  a  cupola  and 
vane.  The  two  flanks,  E  and  W,  are  of  the  same  length 
as  the  front,  but  liave  little  ornament.  A  circular  court 
is  in  the  centre  of  the  edifice,  measures  50  feet  in 
diameter,  and  is  surmounted  or  canopied  by  a  dome  ; 
and  a  saloon  is  there,  50  feet  in  diameter,  balconied  all 
round  with  a  railed  gallery,  sending  off  communications 
498 


EDINBURGH 

into  23  subordinate  departments,  and  lighted  from  the 
top  bj-  a  window  15  feet  in  diameter.  The  rest  of  the 
interior  is  partly  arranged  into  nearly  100  small  arched 
apartments  on  each  of  the  upper  floors,  leading  off  from 
long  corridors  ;  and  also  containing  small  rooms  for  the 
use  of  functionaries  connected  with  the  supreme  courts, 
and  larger  apartments  for  the  stowage  of  registers.  A 
statue  of  George  III.,  in  white  marble,  by  the  Hon. 
Mrs  Damer,  is  in  a  recess  of  the  dome.  The  second 
Register  House  stands  immediately  behind  the  original 
one,  partly  in  direct  rear  of  it,  partly  fronting  the 
thoroughfare  of  "West  Register  Street.  It  was  erected 
in  1857-60  at  a  cost  of  £26,440,  and  is  approached  and 
entered  through  a  railed  enclosure  from  West  Register 
Street.  It  forms  a  quadrangular  pile,  much  smaller 
than  the  original  edifice,  but  in  a  similar  style  of 
architecture,  though  considerably  more  ornate ;  and  is 
mainly  occupied  with  the  department  of  duplicate  regis- 
trations of  births,  marriages,  and  deaths.  The  third 
edifice  stands  behind  the  first,  and  to  the  E  of  the 
second,  and  cannot  well  be  seen  except  from  East 
Register  Street.  It  is  connected  with  the  first  by  a 
stone  corridor,  40  feet  in  length,  and  was  erected  in 
1869-71,  after  a  design  by  Mr  Matheson,  at  a  cost  of 
about  £8000.  It  serves  entirely  for  record  volumes,  and 
is  a  cu'cular  structure,  55  feet  in  diameter  and  65  in 
height,  surmounted  by  a  dome,  and  lighted  entirely  from 
windows  in  the  dome.  Eight  massive  piers,  at  regular 
intervals,  project  from  the  general  line  of  the  exterior 
wall ;  a  dado  course  divides  the  elevation  into  lower 
and  upper  sections ;  the  projecting  piers  in  the  lower 
section  are  rusticated,  and  the  interspaces  are  plain ; 
both  the  piers  and  the  interspaces  in  the  upper  section 
are  relieved  with  deeply  moulded  panelling ;  a  cornice 
and  a  balustrade  go  round  the  wall  head  ;  and  the  dome 
rises  thence  to  the  height  of  20  feet,  and  is  divided 
into  panelled  compartments,  corresponding  to  those  of 
the  walls. 

Friions. — The  Old  Tolbooth,  demolished  in  1817,  has 
already  been  noticed  in  the  section  on  judicial  buildings. 
A  guard-house  erected  in  the  time  of  Charles  II.  for  the 
Old  Town  guard,  ■ndtli  a  dungeon  or  black -hole  at  its 
W  end  ibr  the  incarceration  of  unruly  persons,  stood  on 
the  S  si  le  of  the  upper  part  of  High  Street.  It  presented 
an  unsightly  appearance,  being  a  huge  structure  encum- 
bering the  thoroughfare;  yet,  not\vithstanding  its  ugli- 
ness and  obstructiveness,  it  was  not  taken  down  till  about 
the  5'ear  1787.  A  small  prison  of  modern  date,  called 
the  Lock-up,  stands  contiguous  to  the  rear  of  Parliament 
House,  and  was  occupied  by  criTuinals  tlie  night  before 
their  execution.  It  was  remodelled  and  legalised  in  1857, 
and  serves  chiefly  as  an  adjunct  to  the  Justiciary  Court 
for  the  temporary  accommodation  of  criminals  at  the  time 
of  their  trial,  and  it  is  not  permitted  to  detain  any  one 
in  it  longer  than  ten  days  at  a  time.  The  main  prison 
stands  on  the  SW  shoulder  of  Calton  Hill,  extemling 
from  the  E  end  of  the  S  side  of  Waterloo  Place,  along 
Regent  Road,  occupying  the  crown  of  a  clitt"  overhang- 
ing the  North  Back  of  Canongate,  and  on  the  site  of  the 
batteries  used  against  the  forces  of  Queen  Mary's  party 
in  1571.  They  comprise  three  groups  of  buildings, 
erected  at  different  dates,  within  separate  enclosures, 
for  separate  purposes,  but  now  within  one  enclosure 
in  communication  with  each  other,  and  all  under  one 
management.  They  are  in  different  varieties  of  the  castel- 
lated Norman  style,  and  exhibit  massive  features  of  gate- 
way, turrets,  and  towers.  They  combine  grandly  with 
tlie  cliffs  and  acclivities  beneath  and  above  them  ;  and, 
whether  seen  downward  from  the  crown  of  Calton  Hill, 
horizontally  from  the  level  of  Regent  Road,  or  upward 
from  the  lower  parts  of  Canongate  and  the  Queen's 
Park,  present  an  imposing  and  picturesque  appearance. 
The  western  gi-oup  was  built,  as  the  town  and  coimty 
jail  in  1815-17,  and  is  entered  by  a  massive  arch- 
way, flanked  by  low,  round  towers,  and  surmounted 
by  a  platform.  It  contains,  in  the  jjarts  adjacent 
to  the  entrance,  apartments  for  the  turnkeys,  and 
beyond  an  intervening  area,  the  jail  proper,  extending 
194  feet  from  W  to  E,  and  40  feet  from  N  to  S,  ami 


EDINBURGH 

rising  in  the  centre  and  at  the  ends  in  the  form  of 
broad  massive  towers.  It  includes,  behind  the  lower 
fiat,  a  number  of  small  airing-yards,  separated  by  high 
walls,  and  radiating  backward  to  a  point  where  all  are 
overlooked  by  a  small  octagonal  watch-house  ;  and  has, 
at  the  southern  extremity,  behind  a  small  area  of  flower 
plots,  the  governor's  house,  surmounted  by  a  castellated 
round  tower,  and  perched  on  the  edge  of  a  precipice 
overhanging  the  Old  To\vn.  The  middle  group  was 
built,  as  the  Town  and  County  Bridewell,  in  1791-96, 
and  was  entered  by  a  plain  archway,  now  disused.  It 
has,  adjacent  to  the  entrance,  a  neat  battlemented 
structure,  formerly  the  governor's  house  ;  and,  in  its 
main  building  or  jail  proper,  stands  E  and  W  in  the 
same  manner'  as  the  town  and  county  jaiL  It  is  of 
similar  size  to  that  structure,  but  in  a  ruder  style,  and 
with  crow-step  gables  ;  presents  to  the  S  a  semicircular 
form ;  is  largely  disposed  in  workshops,  and  has  such 
interior  arrangement,  that  all  these  can  be  surveyed 
from  an  apartment  in  the  governor's  house  without  the 
observer  being  himself  seen.  The  eastern  gi'oup  was 
buUt,  as  the  Debtor's  JaU,  in  1S45-47,  but  since  the 
passing  of  the  Act  abolishing  imprisonment  for  debt, 
it  has  formed  part  of  the  jail  proper.  A  massive  gateway, 
though  not  in  use,  faces  the  E,  doubly  flanked  b)'  square 
towers ;  and  has  near  the  entrance  several  massive 
towers,  all  higher  than  those  at  the  sides  of  the  gate- 
way, but  differing  from  one  another  in  height,  breadth, 
and  form.  It  extends  in  ranges  in  line  with  the  maia 
structures  of  the  other  two  groups  ;  expands,  at  the 
ends,  in  the  form  of  xeij  broad,  massive  towers  ;  and, 
as  seen  from  most  points  of  view,  especially  from  the 
Queen's  Park,  looks  not  unlike  a  romantic  citadel  or 
a  baronial  hall.  Plans  for  a  reconstruction  and  re- 
aiTangement  of  Edinburgh  prison  have  been  sanctioned 
by  Government,  and  the  work  was  expected  to  begin  in 
the  spring  of  1882. 

Places  of  Amusement. — The  old  Theatre  Royal  stood 
at  the  E  corner  of  Princes  Street  and  North  Bridge.  It 
was  built  in  1769  at  a  cost  of  about  £5000,  and  had 
flanks  and  rear  as  plain  as  those  of  a  barn,  but  the  front 
to  the  N  had  a  piazza-porch  and  some  sculptures.  It 
was  demolished  in  1860-61  to  give  place  to  the  new 
Post  Office.  The  Adelphi  Theatre  stood  at  the  comer  of 
Broughton  Street  and  Little  King  Street,  where  both 
these  thoroughfares  join  the  head  of  Leith  Walk.  It 
was  used  chiefly  in  summer  while  the  Eoyal  Theatre  was 
shut,  had  no  kind  of  architectural  ornamentation,  and 
was  burned  in  1853.  The  Queen's  Theatre  and  Opera 
House  occuxjied  the  site  of  the  Adelphi ;  it  was  erected 
in  1856,  showed  little  exterior  ornament,  and  was 
burned  in  1865.  The  new  Theatre  Royal  occupies  the 
same  site,  and  was  erected,  after  designs  by  David  Mac- 
gibbon,  immediately  after  the  destruction  of  the  Queen's 
Theatre  ;  it  has  an  elevation  to  Broughton  Sti-eet  of  an 
Italian  tetrastyle  portico,  decorated  pilasters,  arched 
windows,  and  a  frieze  ;  was  designed  to  have,  in  niches 
of  that  elevation,  allegorical  statues  of  Tragedy,  Comedy, 
Music,  and  Dancing ;  presents  to  Little  King  Street  a 
plain  wall,  sparsely  pierced  with  windows ;  but  was  gutted 
by  fire  in  Feb.  1875.  It  was  restored  in  the  later  months 
of  the  same  year,  underwent  improved  internal  arrange- 
ments, with  some  increase  of  accommodation,  in  the 
course  of  the  restoration,  and  was  reopened  in  Jan.  1876. 
It  now  contains  sittings  for  2300  persons.  The  Royal 
Princess  Theatre  stands  on  the  E  side  of  Nicolson 
Street,  nearly  opposite  Nicolson  Square,  being  con- 
sti'ucted,  in  1862,  out  of  previous  buildings.  It  has  no 
frontage  or  proper  structure  of  its  own,  but  is  entered 
partly  by  a  long  lobby  from  Nicolson  Street,  partly  by 
a  stairway  from  a  contiguous  thoroughfare  ;  and  contains 
accommodation  for  about  1500  persons.  The  Gaiety 
Theatre  or  Music  Hall  is  in  Chambers  Street,  at  the 
back  of  a  building  near  the  E  end,  and  is  entered 
through  the  groimd-floor  of  the  building  in  front.  It 
is  not  very  far  from  the  site  of  the  house  in  which  Sir 
"Walter  Scott  was  born.  It  was  erected  in  1875  ;  has  a 
handsome  interior,  adorned  with  Corinthian  pilasters 
and  a  bust  of  Scott  j  and  contains  about  1200  sittings, 


EDINBURGH 

having  been  interiorly  renovated  and  re-decorated  in 
1881.  Entering  from  the  W  side  of  Nicolson  Street 
by  a  covered  way  leading  to  a  recess  between  South  Col- 
lege Street  and  Nicolson  Square,  is  a  large  building 
which  has  passed  through  many  different  phases  as  a 
place  of  public  amusement.  It  was  known  some  years 
ago  as  the  Southminster  Theatre  ;  but  was  burned  down 
in  the  spring  of  1875,  and  reconstructed  and  reopened 
before  the  close  of  the  same  year  at  a  cost  of  nearly 
£10,000.  It  has  a  plain  exterior,  but  commodious  in- 
terior, and  is  variously  and  intermittently  occupied  as 
circus,  panorama,  and  music  hall.  Another  building, 
used  very  much  in  a  similar  way,  stands,  with  very 
ordinary  frontages  to  Grindlay  and  Cornwall  Streets, 
off  Castle  Terrace. 

The  Assembly  Rooms  are  on  the  S  side  of  George 
Street,  midway  between  Hanover  Street  and  Frederick 
Street ;  were  buUt  in  1787  by  subscription ;  and  have 
a  plain  Italian  front,  with  a  tetrastyle  Doric  portico, 
on  a  rusticated  piazza  basement,  over  which  has 
recently  been  added  a  projection  to  give  room  for  an 
orchestra,  which  detracts  somewhat  from  the  appear- 
ance of  the  building.  It  contains  a  principal  room 
92  feet  long,  42  wide,  and  40  high,  and  other  apart- 
ments, both  commodious  and  elegant ;  and  underwent 
considerable  improvement  in  1871.  The  Music  Hall 
is  in  the  rear  of  the  Assembly  Rooms ;  it  is  acces- 
sible by  the  same  entrance,  and  extends  back  to  Rose 
Street ;  was  built  in  1843,  after  a  design  by  Messrs 
Bum  &  Bryce,  at  a  cost  of  more  than  £10,000 ; 
and  contains  a  principal  apartment  108  feet  long 
and  91  feet  wide,  with  richly  panelled  ceiling  and 
shallow  central  dome,  an  orchestra  large  enough  for 
several  hundred  performers,  and  a  large  organ  built  by 
Hill  of  London.  It  is  much  used  for  great  public 
meetings — political,  municipal,  religious,  and  miscel- 
laneous. The  Calton  Convening  Room  on  the  N  side 
of  Waterloo  Place,  the  Waverley  Hall  on  its  S  side,  the 
Masonic  Hall  on  the  S  side  of  George  Street,  a  little  E 
of  Castle  Street,  the  Oddfellows'  Hall  in  Forrest  Road, 
and  some  other  halls  are  likewise  occasional  places  of 
amusement.  Within  a  portion  of  the  Waverley  Market 
there  is  an  aquarium,  with  seal-pond,  and  various  other 
attractions. 

Short's  Observatory  stands  on  Castle  Hill,  at  the  E 
side  of  the  head  of  Ramsay  Lane,  having  superseded  a 
slender  structure  of  1835  for  a  similar  purpose  on 
Calton  Hill.  It  was  erected  in  1847  ;  is  a  substantial, 
lofty  stone  edifice,  terminating  in  a  tower  overlook- 
ing most  of  the  city,  and  commanding  a  magnificent 
panoramic  view  ;  was  remodelled  and  extensively  re- 
fitted about  1869  ;  and  contains  a  camera  obscura, 
powerful  telescopes,  a  splendid  collection  of  micro- 
scopes, some  other  scientific  apparatus,  and  a  number 
of  miscellaneous  attractions. — The  Eoyal  Patent  Gym- 
nasium occupies  a  large  space  on  the  N  side  of  Fettes 
Row  and  Royal  Crescent,  was  opened  in  April  1865 
in  the  presence  of  the  magistrates,  the  councillors, 
and  numerous  principal  inhabitants  of  Edinburgh  and 
Leith,  and  underwent  enlargements  and  improvements 
in  subsequent  j-ears.  It  includes  an  extensive  exhibition 
hall,  erected  in  1868  ;  contains  a  velocipede  merry-go- 
round,  160  feet  in  circumference  ;  a  gigantic  see-saw, 
100  feet  long ;  a  compound  pendulum  swing,  holding 
about  100  persons ;  extensive  ponds  with  supply  of 
small  boats  and  canoes  ;  a  ti-aining  bicycle  course,  with 
supply  of  bicycles,  and  grounds  for  foot-races. 

Monuments. — An  equestrian  statue  of  Charles  II.  is 
in  the  centre  of  Parliament  Square,  which  was  cast 
in  Holland  in  1685  of  lead,  afterwards  bronzed,  at  a  re- 
markably small  cost.  It  is  a  figure,  in  design  and  general 
effect,  equal  to  that  of  many  admired  statues  in  Great 
Britain  ;  and  surmounts  a  handsome  pedestal,  containing 
two  marble  tablets  with  inscriptions  which  read  as 
if  they  were  meant  to  be  ironical.  There  is  a 
bronze  statue  of  the  Duke  of  York,  second  son  of 
George  III.,  on  the  NW  border  of  the  Castle  Espla- 
nade ;  it  was  executed  by  the  sculptor  Campbell, 
and  erected  in  1839.     A  monument  to  the  memory 

499 


EDINBITEGH 

of  the  men  of  the  78th  Hii:jhland  Regiment  (Havelock's 
heroes),  who  fell  in  conflict  with  the  Indian  mutineers 
\a  1857-5S,  stands  on  the  NE  border  of  the  Castle 
Esplanade  ;  was  erected  by  the  surviving  ofiicers  and 
soldiers  of  the  regiment,  and  has  the  form  of  a  Runic 
cross  ;  and  close  by  there  is  a  memorial  cross  to  Colonel 
Stewart  of  the  Cameron  Highlanders.  A  sitting  sand- 
stone statue  of  James  Watt  surmounts  the  projecting 
porch  of  the  New  School  of  Arts  in  Chambers  Street. 
It  stood  originally  on  a  granite  pedestal  in  Adam  Square, 
and  was  erected  there  in  1853  ;  but  in  common  with 
the  old  School  of  Art5  directly  behind  it,  was  removed 
thence  in  1873  in  the  course  of  the  formation  of  Cham- 
bers Street. 

A  bronze  statue  of  George  IV. ,  by  Chantrey,  is  at  the 
intersection  of  George  Street  by  Hanover  Street,  erected 
in  1832,  and  mounted  on  a  gi-anite  pedestal ;  it  exhibits 
the  monarch  in  a  strikingh-  affected  attitude.  A  similar 
statue  of  "William  Pitt,  also  by  Chantrey,  at  the  inter- 
section of  the  same  street  by  Frederick  Sti-eet,  was 
erected  in  1833  ;  it  possesses  considerable  dignity  of 
expres.«ion.  Another  of  the  Rev.  Dr  Chalmers,  by 
Steell,  erected  in  1876,  is  in  the  same  thoroughfare 
at  the  intersection  by  Castle  Street.  A  bronze  statue, 
by  Steell,  of  the  second  Viscount  Meh-ille,  is  in  Mel- 
ville Street,  at  the  central  point  where  the  street 
expands  into  a  double  crescent;  it  was  erected  in  1857, 
and  stands  on  a  sandstone  pedestal.  A  Doric  column, 
after  Trajan's  at  Rome,  to  the  first  Viscount  Melville, 
stands  in  the  centre  of  St  Andrew  Square.  It  was  con- 
structed in  1821-23,  after  a  design  by  Mr  Bum,  at 
a  cost  of  £8000,  and  consists  of  basement,  pillar,  and 
statue  by  Forrest,  rising  to  the  aggregate  height  of 
150  feet.  The  basement  is  square  and  massive,  and 
adorned  with  some  beautiful  architectural  devices  ;  the 
pillar  is  fluted,  diminishes  in  diameter  from  12  feet  2 
inches  at  the  bottom  to  lOi  feet  at  the  top,  and  contains 
a  spiral  staircase,  lighted  by  almost  imperceptible  slits 
in  the  fluting;  the  statue  is  14  feet  high,  but  looks 
from  any  points  of  the  neighbouring  thoroughfares  to 
be  only  life-size.  A  bronze  monument  of  General 
Sir  John  Hope,  afterwards  fourth  Earl  of  Hopetoun, 
who  succeeded  to  the  command  of  the  British  army 
after  the  death  of  General  Sir  John  Moore  at  Corunna, 
is  within  the  recess  in  front  of  the  Royal  Bank  ;  it  was 
executed  by  Campbell,  and  erected  in  1835,  represents 
the  General  in  Roman  costume,  leaning  on  a  charger 
pawing  the  pedestal,  and  has  inscriptions  commemora- 
tive of  his  military  exploits. 

A  colossal  statue  of  Queen  Victoria  surmounts  the 
front  of  the  Royal  Institution,  looking  up  South  Han- 
over Street ;  it  is  in  grey  sandstone,  and  was  sculptured 
by  Steell,  in  1844.  It  shows  the  Queen  in  a  sitting 
posture,  with  a  mural  crown  encircling  the  brow ; 
and,  being  flanked  at  near  distance  by  finely  sculptured 
sphinxes  from  the  chisel  of  the  same  artist,  has  an  im- 
posing effect.  A  white  marble  statue  of  Allau  Ramsay, 
by  Steell,  is  in  the  XE  corner  of  West  Princes  Street 
Gardens,  a  few  paces  from  the  Royal  Institution  ;  it 
was  erected  in  1865  at  the  expense  of  the  late  Lord 
ilurray,  a  relation  of  Ramsay,  and  rests  on  a  pedestal 
decorated  with  medallions  of  Lord  [Murray,  the  wife  of 
the  poet's  son  Allan,  a  grandson  of  the  poet,  and  Lady 
Campbell  and  Mrs  Malcolm,  the  poet's  grand-daughters. 
A  bronze  statue  of  Professor  Wilson,  also  by  Steell, 
is  in  the  NW  comer  of  East  Princes  Street  Gardens, 
a  few  paces  E  of  the  Royal  Institution ;  it  was 
erected  at  the  same  time  as  Ramsay's  statue,  is  of 
colossal  size,  on  a  sjTnmetrical  pedestal,  and  represents 
well  the  'lion-like'  form  of  'Christopher  North.'  A 
sitting  bronze  statue  of  Professor  Simpson,  by  W.  Brodie, 
was  erected  in  1877  on  a  spot  W  of  the  Ramsay  statue  ; 
it  represents  the  professor  in  academic  robes,  lecturing  to 
his  students  ;  is  about  twice  the  size  of  life  ;  and,  with 
inclusion  of  its  pedestal,  rises  to  the  height  of  nearly  20 
feet  from  the  ground.  A  bronze  statue  of  Adam  Black, 
by  J.  Hutchison,  is  erected  on  a  spot  a  little  E  of  the  Scott 
Monument ;  being  preceded,  in  Mr  Black's  lifetime,  by 
a  bust  of  him,  by  the  same  artist,  for  the  hall  of  the 
500 


EDINBURGH 

Philosophical  Institution.  A  bronze  statue  of  the 
African  explorer,  Dr  Livingstone,  by  Mrs  D.  0.  Hill, 
was  erected  in  1876,  on  a  spot  a  little  E  of  Sir  Walter 
Scott's  Monument,  in  line  with  those  of  Wilson  and 
Black. 

Sir  Walter  Scott's  Monument  stands  on  the  esplanade 
of  East  Princes  Street  Gardens,  opposite  St  David  Street ; 
was  erected  in  1840-44,  after  designs  by  George  M.  Kemp, 
at  a  cost  of  £15,650.  It  is  a  cruciform  Gothic  spire,  chiefly 
modelled  on  the  details  of  Melrose  Abbey  ;  and  includes 
beneath  its  basement  arches,  a  Carrara  marble  sitting 
statue  of  Scott  by  Steell,  costing  £2000,  and  inaugurated 
in  1846.  Four  grand  basement  arches  are  connected  to- 
gether exactly  in  the  same  manner  as  those  beneath  tho 
central  tower  of  a  crucifomi  Gothic  cathedral.  Four 
other  grand  arches  spring  diagonally  from  the  outer  side 
of  the  piers  of  these  arches,  and  rest  on  strong,  octagonal, 
buttressed  exterior  piers,  which  are  surmounted  by 
turret-pinnacles.  Elegant  pierced  flying  buttresses 
ascend  from  the  inner  side  of  the  base  of  these  pin- 
nacles, and  from  the  end  of  a  pierced  horizontal  parapet 
over  the  contiguous  spandrils,  to  the  middle  of  the 
second  stage  of  the  monument.  A  contracting  series  of 
galleries,  arches,  turrets,  and  pinnacles  soars  aloft  from 
the  summit  of  the  four  grand  basement  arches,  stage 
above  stage,  till  it  attains  a  height  of  about  200  feet 
from  the  ground,  and  terminates  there  in  a  finial.  The 
capitals,  mouldings,  niches,  parapets,  crochetings,  and 
other  ornaments  are  in  the  same  style  of  decorated  Gothic 
and  on  the  same  pattern  as  those  of  Melrose  Abbey.  A 
stair  of  287  steps  ascends  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  top, 
and  reveals  there  a  most  magnificent  bird's-eye  view  of 
the  city.  In  each  front  of  the  main  basement,  above 
the  archivolt  and  in  the  parapet,  are  nine  small  niches  ; 
and  in  the  exterior  piers,  in  the  turret-pinnacles  above 
them,  and  in  the  prominent  parts  of  the  second  stage, 
are  so  many  more  as  to  make  a  total  of  fift5'-six  within 
clear  view  from  the  ground.  Figures  of  the  principal 
characters  in  Scott's  poems  and  novels  were  originally 
intended  to  occupy  all  the  niches,  and  4  of  these  were 
forthcoming  at  the  erection  of  the  monument,  1  more 
ten  years  after,  27  statuettes,  and  16  likenesses  of 
Scottish  poets  in  1874  ;  8  medallions  in  1876 — all  these 
greatly  enhancing  the  beauty  and  interest  of  the  whole. 
One  of  the  best  statuettes  is  reckoned  to  be  that  of  Diana 
Vernon,  on  the  outside  niche  of  the  SE  pier,  the  work 
of  George  Lawson.  Flights  of  steps  from  the  ground, 
on  all  the  four  sides,  converge  to  a  platform  beneath  the 
four  grand  basement  arches.  The  statue  of  Sir  Walter 
is  on  a  pedestal  at  the  centre  of  that  platform,  and  repre- 
sents him  in  a  characteristic  attitude,  attended  by  his 
dog  Maida.  It  was  cut  from  a  block  of  marble  weighing 
upwards  of  30  tons,  and  is  well-formed  and  harmonious; 
but,  though  large  in  itself,  is  so  disproportioned  to  the 
spacious  lofty  vault  around  it  as  to  look  relatively  small 
and  almost  dwarfish.  The  statuettes  on  the  monument 
rei)resent  the  Lady  of  the  Lake,  the  Last  Minstrel,  Prince 
Charles  Edward,  and  Meg  Merrilies  on  respectively  the 
S,  the  W,  the  N,  and  the  E  of  the  main  basement ; 
Mause  Headrigg,  Dominie  Sampson,  Meg  Dodds,  and 
Dandie  Dinmont  on  respectively  the  S,  the  W,  the  N, 
and  the  E  of  the  fourth  gallery  ;  James  VI. ,  Magnus 
Troil,  and  Halbert  Glendinning  on  the  upper  tier  of  the 
SW  buttress ;  Minnie  Troil,  George  Heriot,  and  Bailie 
Nicol  Jarvie  on  the  lower  tier  of  the  SW  buttress ;  Amy 
Robsart,  the  Earl  of  Leicester,  and  Baron  Bradwardine  on 
the  upper  tier  of  the  NW  buttress  ;  Hal  o'  the  Wynd, 
the  Glee  Maiden,  and  Edith  of  Lorn  on  the  lower  tier 
of  the  NW  buttress  ;  Edie  Ochiltree,  Robert  Bruce,  and 
Old  Mortality  on  the  upper  tier  of  the  NE  buttress ; 
Flora  M'lvor,  Jeanie  Deans,  and  the  Laird  of  Dumbie- 
dykes  on  the  lower  tier  of  the  NE  buttress ;  Saladin, 
Friar  Tuck,  and  Richard  dj&ur  de  Lion  on  the  upper 
tier  of  the  SE  buttress ;  and  the  Jewess  Rebecca, 
Diana  Vernon,  and  Queen  Mary  on  the  lower  tier  of  the 
SE  buttress.  The  likenesses  of  Scottish  poets  are  on 
the  capitals  of  the  pilasters  supporting  the  vaulted  roof; 
and  represent  James  Hogg,  Robert  Burns,  Robert  Fer- 
gusson,  and  Allan  Ramsay  on  the  W  front ;   George 


EDINBURGH 

Buchanan,  Sir  David  Lindsay,  Robert  Tannahill,  and 
Lord  Byron  on  the  S  front ;  Tobias  Smollett,  James 
Beattie,  James  Thomson,  and  John  Home  on  the  E 
front;  Queen  Mary,  King  James  L,  King  James  V. , 
and  Drummond  of  Hawthornden  on  the  N  front.  The 
medallions  are  ranged  in  pairs,  in  spandrils  between  the 
panels  of  the  walls,  and  they  represent  the  heads  of 
John  Knox,  James  V.,  George  Buchanan,  James  VL, 
Queen  ilary,  Charles  L,  Regent  Moray,  and  the  Mar- 
quis of  Montrose.  Thirty-two  additional  statues  and 
statuettes  were  added  in  1882,  and  are  the  work  of 
various  sculptors.  Among  these  later  additions  are 
figures  of  Oliver  Cromwell,  Helen  ilacgregor,  Madge 
Wildfire,  Sir  Piercie  Shafton,  John  Knox,  the  Fair  Maid 
of  Perth,  the  Dougal  Cratur,  Ravenswood,  David  Deans, 
etc. ,  and  they  range  from  6  feet  to  3  feet  in  height.  It 
should  be  added  that  the  upper  part  of  the  monument, 
though  designed  by  Kemp  in  perfect  harmony  with  all 
the  rest,  and  though  figuring  in  that  harmony  in  almost 
all  the  prints  of  it  which  have  been  published,  was 
elongated  from  its  fair  proportions  by  order  of  the  com- 
mittee who  superintended  the  erection,  solely  for  the 
paltry  reason  of  making  it  be  better  seen  from  the  near 
vicinity.  Mr  George  M.  Kemp,  the  architect,  was  a 
self-made  artist,  who  travelled  through  Europe  studying 
Gothic  architecture,  supporting  himself  the  while  by 
working  as  an  ordinary  stone  mason.  He  did  not  live 
to  see  the  completion  of  the  work,  having  been  acciden- 
tally drowned  while  it  was  proceeding.  The  galleries 
contain  many  relics  and  curiosities  relating  to  Sir 
Walter  Scott. 

Burns'  Monument  is  on  the  S  side  of  Regent  Road, 
260  yards  eastward  of  the  Prison  ;  it  crowns  a  rock  10 
feet  higher  than  the  level  of  the  roadway,  and  overlooks 
all  the  valley  of  the  Canongate  and  the  Queen's  Park. 
It  was  erected  in  1830  after  a  design  by  Thomas  Hamil- 
ton ;  is  a  circular  temple  of  florid  character,  with 
Corinthian  cyclostyle  of  twelve  columns  raised  on  a 
quadrangular  base,  and  surmounted  by  a  cupola  in 
imitation  of  the  monument  of  Lysicrates  at  Athens, 
supporting  a  tripod  with  winged  fabulous  creatures  ; 
and  contains  a  bust  of  Burns  by  W.  Brodie,  and  a 
number  of  interesting  relics  of  the  poet.  A  marble 
statue  of  Burns  by  Flaxman  stood  formerly  in  the 
monument ;  but  was  removed  first  to  the  library-hall  of 
the  CoUege  and  next  to  the  National  Gallery.  A 
monument  to  Dugald  Stewart,  the  distinguished  Scottish 
philosopher,  was  erected  on  the  AV  face  of  Calton 
Hill,  overlooking  Waterloo  Place,  in  1831,  after  a 
design  by  W.  H.  Playfair  ;  is  in  the  style  of  a  Grecian 
temple,  partly  copied  from  the  Choragic  monument 
of  Lysicrates ;  and  has  a  high  basement,  an  open  in- 
terior, a  beautiful  funereal  urn,  a  rich  entablature, 
and  a  cupolar  canopy.  Professor  Playfair's  monument 
stands  on  the  same  face  of  Calton  Hill,  higher  up,  at 
the  SE  corner  of  the  New  Observatory  ;  was  erected 
also  after  a  design  by  W.  H.  Playfair,  the  professor's 
nephew ;  and  is  a  solid  Doric  structure  of  small  dimen- 
sions, but  great  purity  of  style. 

Lord  Nelson's  ]\Ionument  surmounts  a  cliff"  towards 
the  SW  corner  of  Calton  Hill,  on  a  line  with  Princes 
Street,  and  figures  conspicuously  in  almost  every  view 
of  the  city.  It  was  founded  soon  after  Lord  Nelson's 
death,  but  not  completed  till  1815,  and  it  comprises 
an  octagonal  battlemented  basement,  containing  several 
rooms,  a  spacious,  circular,  embattled  tower  of  four 
stories,  a  circular  embattled  turret  of  one  story, 
and  a  surmounting  time-ball  and  flagstaff.  Rising  to 
the  height  of  102  feet  from  the  ground,  and  450  feet 
above  sea-level,  it  commands  from  the  parapets  of 
its  tower  and  turret  an  extension  of  the  magnificent 
paroramic  view  which  is  seen  from  the  walks  round  the 
brows  of  the  hill.  The  entrance  is  surmounted  by  an 
inscription  tablet,  the  crest  of  Nelson,  and  sculpture  in 
bas-relief,  representing  the  stern  of  the  San  Juaef ;  the 
interior  contains  a  camera  obscura,  a  solar  microscope, 
telescopes,  panoramic  paintings,  an  autograph  of  Nelson, 
and  various  curiosities  connected  with  liis  name  and 
exploits.     On  its  summit  is  a  time-ball,  with  a  diameter 


EDINBURGH 

of  b\  feet,  erected  in  1852  to  regulate  the  chronometers 
of  the  vessels  at  Leith  and  Granton.  It  is  raised  by 
machinery  every  day  a  little  before  one  to  the  height  of 
15  feet,  and  falls  exactly  at  the  hour  bj''  a  drop  which 
acts  in  connection  with  an  electric-clock  in  the  adjoin- 
ing Royal  Observatory,  a  wire  attached  conveying,  at 
the  same  time,  an  electric  current  to  the  time-gun  in 
the  Castle.  The  National  Monument  crowns  a  knoll  of 
the  Calton  Hill,  a  little  to  the  N  of  Nelson's  monu- 
ment, being  projected  in  1816  to  commemorate  the 
Scottish  heroes — naval  and  military — who  fell  in  the 
wars  with  Napoleon  Bonaparte,  and  designed  to  be  a 
copy  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  on  a  scale  to  cost 
£50,000.  Planned  by  W.  H.  Playfair,  and  promising 
to  reflect  the  highest  credit  on  his  genius,  it  was 
founded  in  1822  during  George  IV. 's  visit  to  Edin- 
burgh, and  began  to  be  built  in  1824  ;  but,  in  conse- 
quence of  failure  in  funds,  it  was  never  constructed 
further  than  the  erection  of  twelve  columns,  with  base- 
ment and  architrave.  The  columns  are  large,  fluted, 
and  beautifully  proportioned ;  cost  upwards  of  £1000 
each,  and  were  designed  to  form  the  western  range  of 
the  entire  structure  ;  and,  except  for  their  looking  like 
the  mere  fragment  of  a  stupendous  ruin,  they  would 
produce  a  striking  eff"ect.  Various  projects  have  been  sug- 
gested at  different  times,  and  some  magnificent  proffers 
of  liberality  have  been  made,  either  to  get  the  monu- 
ment completed  according  to  the  original  design,  or  to 
incorporate  it  in  some  other  architectural  conception, 
but  all  have  hitherto  proved  abortive. 

The  Duke  of  Wellington's  Monument  is  a  bronze 
equestrian  statue  by  Steell,  on  a  pedestal  of  Peterhead 
syenite  in  front  of  the  Register  House  ;  and  it  was  in- 
augurated on  18  June  1852.  The  pedestal  is  13  feet 
high,  and  very  plain  ;  the  statue,  nearly  14  feet  high, 
containing  about  12  tons  of  metal,  and  cost  £10,000. 
The  horse  is  rearing  under  the  curb,  as  if  pulled  sud- 
denly up  when  in  full  gallop,  while  the  rider  sits  erect 
and  calm,  holding  in  his  left  hand  the  horse's  reins  and 
his  plumed  hat,  and  seeming,  by  the  gesture  of  his  right 
hand  and  by  the  expression  of  his  countenance,  to  be 
issuing  some  command  connected  with  the  evolutions 
of  a  battle.  The  weight  of  the  entire  figure  rests  on  the 
horse's  hind  legs  and  tail ;  and  it  demanded  great  skill 
to  distribute  the  metal  through  the  parts  in  such  a  way 
as  to  produce  a  secure  equipoise.  The  Duke  not  only 
sat  to  the  artist  for  his  portrait,  but  also  rode  to  him, 
so  as  to  give  him  exact  ideas  of  his  style  of  horseman- 
ship. The  inauguration  of  the  Wellington  statue  took 
place  in  the  midst  of  a  violent  thunderstorm,  which  gave 
origin  to  the  following  epigram: — 

'  'Mid  lightning''s  flash  and  thunders  deafening  peal, 
Behold  the  Iron  Duke,  in  bronze,  by  Steell  I* 

The  Prince  Consort's  Monument  stands  in  the  centre 
of  Charlotte  Square,  and  is  a  very  elaborate  and  magni- 
ficent structure,  a  period  of  fuUy  thirteen  years  elapsing 
between  its  conception  and  its  completion  in  August 
1876.  It  was  designed  by  Steell,  and  executed  mainly 
by  him,  but  partly  also  by  Brodie,  Stanton,  Mac- 
callum,  and  Stevenson.  While  the  artists  were 
busy,  the  question  as  to  the  most  suitable  site  for  it, 
whether  on  the  pavement  in  front  of  the  new  Post  Office, 
in  a  recess  opposite  the  Industrial  JIuseum,  in  the 
Queen's  Park  behind  Holyrood,  or  in  some  one  of 
eight  or  nine  other  places,  was  long  and  keenly  de- 
bated, and  was  not  decided  in  favour  of  Charlotte 
Square  till  1871.  The  monument  rises  from  a  platform 
of  Peterhead  syenite,  forms  three  stages,  has  a  total 
height  of  35  feet,  and  stands  in  full  view  throughout 
the  length  of  George  Street.  The  platform  measures  20 
feet  by"20,  and  is  enriched  with  bas-reliefs  and  groups 
of  statuary  ;  the  first  stage  is  about  4  feet  high,  and  has 
at  each  angle  a  square  projection,  surmounted  by  a 
group  of  figures  ;  the  second  stage  has  its  sides  covered 
with  quotations  from  the  Prince  Consort's  public 
speeches ;  and  the  third  stage  is  richly  moulded, 
exhibits  bronze  bas-reliefs— the  larger  ones  showing 
the   marriage   of  the  Queen  and   the  opening  of  the 

501 


EDINBURGH 

Great  Exhibition  of  1851,  while  the  two  lesser  panels 
illustrate  the  domestic  and  artistic  tastes  of  the  Prince 
Consort.  The  colossal  equestrian  statue  of  the  Prince 
is  in  the  uniform  of  a  field-marshal.  The  groups  of 
statuary  on  the  first  stage  represent  'labour,'  by  Mac- 
callum  and  Stevenson;  the  'services,'  by  Clark  Stan- 
ton ;  '  learning  and  science,'  by  Stevenson  ;  and  the 
fourth  group  by  Brodie  shows  the  nobility  otfering  their 
homage  to  the  Prince ;  while  a  group  of  emblematic 
objects  resting  on  the  ledge  formed  by  the  projection  of 
the  second  stage  beyond  the  third  represents  the  Prince's 
honours  and  pursuits. 

A  monument  to  Miss  Catherine  Sinclair  is  at  the  E 
end  of  Queen  Street,  opposite  St  Colme  Street  ;  was 
erected  in  1868  ;  and  has  the  form  of  an  elegant  Eleanor 
cross.  David  Hume's  monument  is  a  mausoleum  in  the 
High  Calton  burying-ground,  a  few  yards  W  of  the 
Prison,  and  surmo'unfing  the  cliff  overhanging  the  junc- 
tion of  Low  Calton  and  North  Back  of  Canongate.  It 
is  a  dark,  low  circular  tower,  open  at  the  top  ;  and 
figures  conspicuously  in  various  views  from  the  Old 
Town.  The  Political  Martyrs'  monument,  to  the 
memory  of  Muir,  Palmer,  Skirving,  and  others  who 
suffered  banishment  in  1794  for  their  efforts  in  the 
cause  of  political  reform,  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Hi;me's 
monument.  It  was  erected  in  1845,  and  is  a  plain, 
lofty,  conspicuous  obelisk.  Visible  from  the  street, 
under  the  western  arcade  of  the  University,  is  the  white 
marble  statue  of  Sir  David  Brewster,  the  late  principal 
of  the  university.  Close  by  St  John's  Episcopal  Church, 
and  fronting  Princes  Street,  is  a  memorial  Ionic  cross, 
\vith  medallions,  erected  in  honour  of  Dean  Ramsay, 
for  many  years  incumbent  of  St  John's,  and  more 
widely  known  for  his  Reminiscences  of  Scottish  Life  and 
Character.  The  Rev.  Dr  Dickson's  monument  and  that 
of  Mr  Jamieson  has  been  already  noticed  iu  the  section  on 
St  Cuthbert's.  A  monument  in  the  Greyfriars'  burying- 
ground,  though  possessing  no  attractions  as  a  work  of  art, 
is  intensely  interesting  as  commemorating  the  martyrs 
of  the  Covenant  executed  at  Edinburgh  during  the 
twenty-seven  years  preceding  the  Revolution,  ilulti- 
tudes  of  monuments  in  the  several  burying-gi'ounds, 
particularly  in  the  newer  ones,  display  much  beauty  ; 
while  not  a  few,  such  as  those  of  Dr  Chalmers,  Hugh 
Miller,  Sir  Andrew  Agnew,  and  Dr  Guthrie,  in  the 
Grange  cemetery  ;  Lords  Jeffrey  and  Cockburn,  and 
many  other  celebrities,  in  the  Dean  ;  Alexander  Smith, 
the  poet.  Sir  James  Simpson,  and  others  in  Warriston 
— possess  intense  interest  for  their  associations. 

Extinct  Civil  Edifices. — The  ancient  City  Cross  stood 
on  the  thoroughfare  of  High  Street,  opposite  the  site  of 
the  Royal  Exchange.  It  was  the  place  for  state  pro- 
clamations, the  scene  both  of  festive  celebrations  and 
of  special  executions,  and  it  consisted  of  a  basement 
building  and  a  surmounting  pillar.  The  basement  build- 
ing was  octagonal,  measured  16  feet  in  diameter  and  15 
feet  in  height,  and  was  in  a  mixed  style  of  Gothic  and 
Grecian.  It  had,  at  each  corner,  an  Ionic  pillar,  sur- 
mounted by  a  mimic  Gothic  bastion  ;  showed  between 
each  two  pillars  a  semicircular  arch,  and  between  each 
two  bastions  a  medallion  sculpture  ;  was  pierced,  on 
the  E  side,  by  a  door,  giving  ingress  to  a  staircase 
leading  to  its  summit ;  and  was  roofed  by  a  plat- 
form. The  surmounting  pillar  rose  from  the  centre  of 
the  platform,  measured  18  inches  in  diameter  and  15 
feet  in  height,  had  a  Corinthian  capital  decorated  with 
thistles,  and  was  crowned  by  a  unicorn  embracing  an 
upright  spear  of  nearly  twice  its  own  length.  The 
entire  structure  was  removed,  in  1617,  to  make  way  for 
the  procession  of  James  VI.  on  his  first  visit  to  Scotland 
after  his  accession  to  the  English  throne,  was  afterwards 
rebuilt,  in  an  inferior  style,  on  a  spot  a  few  paces  from 
its  original  site,  but,  on  account  of  its  obstructing  the 
thoroughfare,  was  finally  removed  in  1756.  A  number 
of  the  ornamental  stones  are  preserved  at  Abbotsford  ; 
and  the  surmounting  pillar  long  stood  on  the  lawn  of 
Drum  House  near  Gilmerton.  It  was  returned  to 
the  city  in  1869,  and  re-erected,  on  a  new  pedestal, 
within  the  railings  on  the  N  side  of  St  Giles'  Church, 
502 


EDINBURGH 

but,  instead  of  the  unicorn  originally  belonging  to  it,  it 
has  a  new  one  carved  in  1869.  An  octagonal  figure  in 
the  causeway  marks  the  spot  on  which  the  cross  stood 
prior  to  1756,  bears  the  name  of  Market  Cross,  and  is 
the  place  at  which  all  royal  proclamations  are  still 
made.  It  is  thus  Sir  Walter  Scott,  whose  own  monu- 
mental cross  is  now  the  grandest  structure  of  its  class 
in  the  world,  expresses  his  regi'et  over  the  demolition 
of  the  city  cross — 

'  Dunedin's  cross,  a  pillar'd  stone. 
Rose  on  a  turret  octagon. 
But  now  is  razed  tliatnionument 

Whence  royal  edict  rang, 
And  voice  of  Scotland's  law  was  sent 

In  glorious  trumpet  clang. 
Oh  !  be  his  tomb  as  lead  to  lead ; 
Upon  its  dull  destroyer's  head 
A  minstrel's  malison  is  said.' 

The  ancient  Weigh-house  stood  on  the  thoroughfare  at 
the  head  of  Lawnmarket  and  "West  Bow,  and  was  a  hand- 
some edifice,  surmounted  by  a  neat  spire.     It  combined 
with  the  City  Cross,  the  spire  of  St  Giles'  Church,  and 
the  spire  of  the  ISTetherbow  gatewaj',  to  give  the  line  of 
High   Street  a  picturesqueness   of  appearance   greatly 
superior  to  what  it  now  possesses ;  but  it  was  demolished 
by  Cromwell  in  1650.     Another  AVeigh-house,  on  the 
site  of  the  ancient  one,  was  erected  in  1660,  of  an  un- 
gainly form,  often  called  the  Butter  Tron,  to  distin- 
guish it  from  a  weigh  beam  in  the  central  part  of  High 
Street,   called  the  Salt  Tron.     It  served  the  Jacobite 
army,  in  1745,  as  a  military  post  for  blockading  the 
Castle  ;  and  was  demolished  in  1S22,  in  the  course  of 
preparation  for  the  public  reception  of  George  IV.     The 
Luckenbooths  extended  eastward  between  Lawnmarket 
and   High    Street,    from   the    Old    Tolbooth    to    the 
vicinity  of  the  City  Cross,  being  separated  from  St  Giles' 
Church  by  a  lane  for  pedestrians.     They  consisted  prin- 
cipally of  lofty  houses,  with  timber  fronts  and  project- 
ing peaked  gables  ;  were  erected,  probably  in  the  time 
of  James  III.,  to  serve  for  shops  and  warehouses  ;  and 
were  demolished  in  1817.     The  lane  between  them  and 
St  Giles'  was  lined  on  both  sides  with  shops  ;  those  on 
the  S  side  adhering  like  excrescences  to  the  walls  of  the 
church,  began  to  be  erected  in  1555,  and  were  called  the 
Krames.     A  flight  of  steps  led  from  the  E  end  of  that 
lane,  past  St  Giles'  Church,  called  St  Mary's  Steps,  re- 
ceiving that  name  from  a  statue  of  the  Virgin  Mary 
in  a  niche  on  its  W  side.     Another  lane,  called  the  Old 
Kirk  Style,  led  through  the  middle  of  the  Luckenbooths 
to  a  porch,  now  extinct,  in  the  northern  part  of  St  Giles' 
Church,  and  was  the  scene  of  the  murder,  in  1525,  of 
Maclellan  of  Bombie  by  the  lairds  of  Drumlanrig  and 
Lochinvar.     The  easternmost  house  of  the  Luckenbooths 
was  much  less  ancient  than  the  others,  and  contained 
a  famous  publishing  establishment,   occupied  in  1725 
and  subsequent  years  by  Allan  Ramsay,  and  from  1775 
till  1815  by  William  Creech,  twice  lord  provost  of  the 
city.     The  Black  Turnpike  stood  immediately  W  of  the 
site  of  the  Tron  Church,  partly  on  ground  now  leading 
into  Hunter  Square,  partly  on  ground  now  other\nse 
occupied.    It  was  a  large,  stately,  lieautiful  structure,  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  in  High  Street ;  and  was  erected 
about  the  beginning  of  the  15th  century,  but  popularly 
regarded  as  having  been  built  near  the  end  of  the  10th 
century  by  King  Kenneth  III.     It  was  the  town  man- 
sion of  Sir  Simon  Preston,   provost  of  Edinburgh  in 
1567,  and  was  the  place  of  Queen  Mary's  incarceration 
on  the  day  of  her  capture  at  Carberry  Hill,  and  also 
during  the  last  night  she  spent  in  Edinburgh.     The 
Darien  House,  an  oblong  edifice,  in  the  French  style, 
with  high  pitched  roof,  stood  close  by  the  City  Wall, 
on  the  W  side  of  Bristo  Place,  being  erected  in  1698  as 
offices  in  connection  with   the   famous  and  disastrous 
scheme   for   Scottish    colonisation    on   the   Isthmus   of 
Darien,     It  came  to  be  used  as  a  pauper  lunatic  asylum, 
and  was,  as  such,  the  deathplace  of  the  poet  Fergusson. 
It  formed  a  curiously  picturesque  relic  of  its  time,  and 
was  taken  down  in  1871.     Other  extinct  edifices  have 
been  noticed  in  previous  sections,  and  some   will   be 
noticed  in  the  sequel. 


EDINBURGH 


EDINBURGH 


The  University. — The  University  of  Edinburgh  was 
founded  in  1582  by  James  VI.  The  edifice  it  originally 
occupied  belonged,  first  to  the  Collegiate  Church  of  St 
Jlary  in  the  Fields,  and  next  to  the  Earl  of  Arran. 
The  Church  of  St  ]\lary  in  the  Fields  appears  to  have 
been  founded  in  the  15th  century,  and  stood,  as  its  name 
implies,  originally  outside  the  City  "Walls  ;  but  was  in- 
cluded within  the  extension-wall  of  1513  ;  occupying 
ground  now  partly  covered  by  the  south-eastern  por- 
tion of  the  present  University  buildings,  and  partly 
forming  the  present  street  area  thence  to  the  NW 
corner  of  Drummond  Street.  It  was  a  large  cruciform 
edifice,  surmounted  by  a  lofty  central  tower,  and  ad- 
joined by  residences  for  its  clergy ;  was  served  by  a 
provost,  S  prebendaries,  and  2  choristers ;  was  the 
meeting-place  of  the  Scottish  ecclesiastics,  convoked  by 
the  papal  nuncio  Bagimont  to  ascertain  the  value  of 
benefices  throughoiit  the  kingdom  ;  and  acquired  an 
infamous  notoriety  from  its  provost's  house  being  the 
scene,  in  1567,  of  the  murder  of  Lord  Darnley.  Por- 
tions of  its  buildings  were  appropriated  in  1582  for  the 
uses  of  the  Universitj'',  and  other  portions  were  swept 
away.  The  University  portions  were  enlarged,  in  1617, 
by  additions  containing  a  common  hall  and  several 
class-rooms  ;  but  these  were  both  unsightly  and  incom- 
modious, and  part  eventually  became  ruinous.  A  re- 
solution was  come  to,  after  the  middle  of  last  century,  to 
sell  part  of  the  University's  property,  and  raise  public 
subscriptions,  for  the  erection  of  an  entirely  new  edifice, 
of  great  extent  and  magnificence  ;  and  that  resolution 
Issued  in  the  realisation  of  about  £32,000.  The  new 
edifice  was  founded  in  1789  ;  was  designed  to  have  the 
form  of  a  hollow  parallelogram  ;  was  carried  on  till  the 
funds  became  exhausted  ;  and  then  consisted  of  only  the 
front  or  E  part  of  the  designed  parallelogram.  That  part 
became  immediately  available  for  the  University,  but 
formed  a  striking  contrast  to  the  old,  plain,  weather- 
worn stnictures  which  required  to  be  retained ;  and  it  long 
stood  in  a  condition  of  hopelessness  as  to  the  probability 
of  its  ever  becoming  winged  with  the  other  elevations  of 
the  original  plan.  In  1815,  however,  an  act  of  parlia- 
ment was  obtained,  allotting  £10,000  a  j-ear  to  the 
further  construction  of  the  edifice  till  it  was  completed. 
The  original  design,  which  had  been  dra"mi  by  Adam, 
was  then  revised  and  extensively  altered,  particularly  as 
to  the  interior  fa9ades,  by  W.  H.  Playfair.  The  build- 
ing operations  went  regularly  on  till  the  N  and  the  W 
sides  of  the  parallelogram  were  completed  ;  they  then 
came  again  to  a  long  pause ;  and,  after  having  been  once 
more  resumed,  were  brought  to  completion  in  1834. 
The  last  extant  portion  of  the  old  buildings  belonged  to 
the  erection  of  1617  ;  and  consisted  of  a  small  square 
tower,  which  was  taken  down  in  1827.  (See  Alex. 
Bower's  History  of  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  Edinb. 
1817-30.     First  ed.  is  in  2  vols. ;  the  second  in  3  vols.) 

The  edifice  presents  its  main  front  to  South  Bridge, 
and  its  N  front  to  Chambers  Street,  and  forms  an 
entire  side  of  respectively  West  College  Street  and  South 
College  Street,  and  measures  358  feet  from  E  to  W,  and 
255  feet  from  N  to  S.  Its  style  of  architecture  is 
Grseco-Italian,  and  the  exterior  fronts  are  in  symmet- 
rical ornamental  facades,  and  have  four  stories  differing 
much  from  one  another  in  height.  Were  it  situated  on 
a  rising-ground  in  an  extensive  park,  it  would  appear 
almost  without  a  parallel  among  the  modem  edifices  of 
Scotland,  but,  standing  as  it  does  engirt  with  streets, 
and  confronted  all  round  by  lofty  houses,  it  can  be  seen 
only  at  such  near  successive  views  as  to  produce  im- 
pressions chiefly  of  astonishment  and  confusion.  The 
basement  story  is  sunk  and  rusticated,  the  second 
is  lofty  and  adorned  with  window  mouldings,  the 
third  resembles  the  second,  but  is  not  so  lofty  or  so 
well  adorned,  and  the  fourth  is  an  attic.  The  central 
part  of  the  main  front  contains  the  entrance,  and  has 
three  lofty  archways,  of  which  only  the  middle  one 
is  for  carriages.  A  giand  Doric  portico  of  centre  and 
wings  adorns  the  entrance,  the  centres  recessed  and 
having  two  attached  columns  at  the  sides  of  the  car- 
riage archway,   the  wings   having  each  two  projected 


columns  and  covering  the  side  archways.  All  the  six 
columns  are  of  equal  diameter  and  26  feet  high,  and 
are  each  formed  of  a  single  block  of  stone.  A  very 
broad  entablature,  with  a  long  appropriate  Latin  in- 
scription, surmounts  the  portico.  A  massive  dome 
was  designed  by  Adam  to  rise  immediately  behind  tho 
entablature,  and  to  form  the  crowning  feature  of  all 
the  main  front,  but  it  was  not  sanctioned  in  the  revisal 
for  completing  the  edifice,  though  a  sum  of  money 
had  been  bequeathed  by  a  citizen  for  the  purpose  ol 
raising  this  dome.  The  N  front,  flanking  the  eastern 
part  of  Chambers  Street,  extends  along  the  whole 
of  what  was  formerly  North  College  Street,  and  there 
is  a  proposal  to  bring  this  front  into  harmony  with 
the  new  blocks  of  building  lining  the  rest  of  Chambers 
Street. 

The  interior  area  is  reached  by  ascent  through  the 
archwaj's,  stands  considerably  higher  than  the  exterior 
level,  is  very  spacious,  and  has  finer  architectural 
features  than  those  of  the  exterior  fronts.  A  con- 
tinuous platform  or  small  paved  terrace  goes  round 
the  base  of  the  main  elevations,  considerably  higher 
than  the  level  of  the  open  court,  is  reached  at  intervals 
by  flights  of  steps,  and  both  along  its  o^^^l  lines  and  on 
the  lines  of  the  flights  of  steps  is  adorned  with  hand- 
some balustrades.  The  fronts  of  the  main  elevations 
have  two  lofty  stories,  the  lower  one  rusticated,  the 
upper  adorned  with  columns  ;  the  junctions  of  front 
■with  front  are  not  corners  but  curves,  containing  the 
entrances  to  most  of  the  apartments,  and  the  cur\'es  are 
filled  in  the  lower  story  with  arcade-piazzas,  in  their 
upper  story  with  open  galleries  supported  by  Ionic 
columns.  The  E  front  or  that  containing  the  street 
entrances  is  adorned  with  Doric  columns  and  entabla- 
ture ;  the  W  front  is  fitted  in  the  central  part  of  its 
lower  story  with  an  arcade-piazza,  Avithin  which  is  the 
monument  to  Sir  David  Brewster,  late  principal,  and  is 
adorned  in  its  upper  story  with  Corinthian  attached 
columns  and  Venetian  windows  ;  the  N  and  S  fronts 
correspond  to  each  other,  and  have  on  their  upper  story 
a  series  of  Corinthian  attached  columns.  The  library 
occupies  both  stories  of  the  S  side ;  has  a  magnificent 
principal  hall,  occupying  the  gi'eater  part  of  the  upper 
story,  and  measuring  198  feet  in  length  and  50  feet  in 
breadth;  contains  about  140,000  printed  books  and  2000 
volumes  of  manuscript,  and  numerous  busts  and  pictures 
of  professors  and  distinguished  alumni.  The  Museum 
formerly  occupied  a  large  portion  of  the  W  side,  but 
was  removed  to  the  adjacent  Industrial  Museum.  The 
music  class-room  was  formerly  on  the  same  side,  but 
now  occupies  a  separate  building  in  Park  Place,  about 
260  yards  SW  of  the  south-western  corner  of  the 
University,  erected  about  1856  ;  and  is  a  neat  and 
spacious  edifice,  with  an  appearance  somewhat  like  that 
of  a  church. 

The  University  originated  in  a  bequest  of  8000  merks 
by  Robert  Reid,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  twenty-four  years 
before  the  date  of  its  formal  foundation  in  1582.  It 
was  opened  in  1583  by  the  amiable  Professor  Robert 
Rollock ;  did  not  acquire  a  second  professorship  till 
1597  ;  rose  to  have  eight  professorships  in  1685  ;  intro- 
duced the  study  of  medicine  into  its  curriculum  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  17th  century  ;  and  ran  thence  so 
brilliant  a  course  that  a  mere  list  of  its  highly  distin- 
guished professors  and  alumni  would  be  too  long  for 
insertion  within  our  limits.  (See  A  Catalogue  of  tlie 
Graduates  in  the  Faculties  of  Arts,  Divinity,  and  Law 
of  the  University  of  Edinburgh  since  its  Foundation, 
edited  by  David  Laing,  and  published  by  the  Banna- 
tyne  Club,  Edinb.  1858.)  There  are  now  seventeen 
professorships  in  its  faculty  of  arts,  four  in  its  faculty 
of  divinity,  four  in  its  faculty  of  law,  and  thirteen  in  its 
faculty  of  medicine.  The  professorships,  with  the  dates 
of  their  foundations,  are  humanity,  1597  ;  mathematics, 
1679;  Greek,  1708;  logic  and  metaphysics,  1708; 
moral  philosophy,  1708  ;  natural  philosophy,  1708 ; 
history,  1719  ;  rhetoric  and  English  literature,  1760  ; 
practical  astronomy,  1786  ;  agriculture,  1790;  engineer- 
in'^,  1868  ;  theory  of  music,  1839  ;  Sanskrit  and  com- 

°  503 


EDINBURGH 

parative  pliilology,  1S62 ;  geology  and  mineralogy, 
1871  ;  commercial  and  political  economy,  and  mercan- 
tile law,  1871  ;  fine  art,  1879  ;  theory,  practice,  and 
history  of  education,  1876  ;  divinity.  1629  ;  HebrcAV 
and  Oriental  languages,  1642  ;  church  history,  169-4  ; 
biblical  criticism  and  biblical  antiquities,  1846  ;  public 
law,  1707  ;  civil  law,  1710  ;  Scots  law,  1722  ;  con- 
veyancing, 1825  ;  botany,  1676  ;  institutes  of  medicine, 
1685 ;  practice  of  physic,  1685  ;  anatomy,  1705  ;  chem- 
istry and  chemical  pharmacy,  1713  ;  midwifery  and 
diseases  of  women  and  children,  1726 ;  clinical  medi- 
cine, 1741  ;  natural  history,  1767 ;  materia  medica, 
1768  ;  clinical  surgery,  1803  ;  medical  jurisprudence, 
1807  ;  surgerj',  1831  ;  general  pathology,  1831.  The 
patronage  of  fifteen  of  the  chairs,  and  partly  that  of  six 
others,  was  formerly  held  by  the  town  council  of  Edin- 
burgh ;  but,  under  the  University  Act  of  1858,  was 
transferred  to  seven  curators,  four  of  them  chosen  by 
the  town  council  and  three  by  the  university  court. 
The  patronage  of  the  chairs  of  rhetoric,  practical  as- 
tronomy, engineering,  Sanskrit,  geology,  church  history, 
biblical  criticism,  public  law,  natural  history,  clinical 
surgery,  and  medical  jurisprudence  is  held  by  the  Crown ; 
that  of  the  humanity  chair  by  the  Lords  of  Session, 
the  Faculty  of  Advocates,  the  society  of  Writers  to  the 
Signet,  and  the  curators  ;  that  of  history,  civil  law, 
and  Scotch  law  chairs  by  the  Faculty  of  Advocates 
and  the  curators ;  that  of  the  agriculture  chair  by 
the  Lords  of  Session,  the  University  Court,  and  the 
curators  ;  that  of  the  music  chair  by  the  University 
Court ;  that  of  the  commercial  and  political  economy 
chair  by  the  Merchant  Company  and  the  curators  ;  that 
of  the  conveyancing  chair  by  the  Deputy-Keeper  and 
Society  of  Writers  to  the  Signet  and  the  curators  ;  and 
that  of  all  the  other  chairs  is  held  by  the  curators. 
Robert  RoUock,  the  first  professor,  took  in  1585  the  rank 
of  principal,  but  his  successor,  in  his  capacity  of  prin- 
cipal, is  one  who  does  not  now  fill  any  professorial  chair. 

The  emoluments  of  the  principal  and  the  professors  are 
derived  from  various  sources,  and  are  as  follow,  exclu- 
sive of  class  fees,  which  range  from  two  to  five  guineas, 
according  to  class  : — Principal  £1200,  with  official  resi- 
dence ;  humanity  £247,  10s..  assistant  £100;  mathe- 
matics £258,  6s.  8d.,  assistant  £100;  Greek  £247, 
4s.  4d. ,  assistant  £100;  logic  £322,  4s.  4d.  ;  moral 
philosophy  £322,  4s.  4d.  ;  natural  philosophy  £282, 
4s.  4d.,  assistant  £100  ;  rhetoric  £280  ;  history  £170  ; 
astronomy  £320  ;  agriculture  £370  ;  music  £420,  assist- 
ant £200  ;  Sanskrit  £450  ;  engineering  £400  ;  geology 
£420;  political  economy  £450;  education  £210;  fine 
arts  £427,  16s.  5d. ;  divinity  £426,  2s.  2d.  ;  Hebrew 
£300  ;  church  history  £350 ;  biblical  criticism  £630  ; 
public  law  £250  ;  civil  law  £250  ;  Scots  law  £100  ; 
conveyancing  £105  ;  botany  £200  ;  institutes  of  medi- 
cine £150  ;  practice  of  physic  £100  ;  chemistry  £200  ; 
mid\vifery£100  ;  natural  history  £195, 15s.  2d. ;  materia 
medica  £100,  assistant  £25  ;  clinical  surgery  £100  ; 
medical  jurisprudence  £100,  assistant  £25 ;  surgery 
£100  ;  general  pathology  £100.  There  is  also  a  con- 
siderable sum  allowed  to  various  of  the  professors  for 
class  expenses. 

Attached  to  the  several  faculties  there  are  nearly  70 
fellowships  and  scholarships,  tenable  generally  from  two 
to  four  years,  and  of  the  value  variously  of  £20  up  to 
£120.  Of  bursaries  in  the  arts  faculty  there  are  about 
160,  of  the  annual  value  of  upwards  of  £4000 — the  bur- 
saries ranging  from  £4  to  £90  ;  in  divinity  32,  annual 
value  about  £625,  ranging  from  £7  to  £60  ;  in  law  13, 
annual  value  about  £350,  ranging  from  £19  to  £30  ;  in 
medicine  23,  annual  value  al)out  £615,  ranging  from 
£20  to  £60.  Five  additional  fellowships  in  science  and 
philosophy  have  been  added  (1882)  to  the  above,  and 
are  of  tlie  annual  value  of  £100  each.  They  are  tenable 
for  three  years. 

The  chief  officers  of  the  University  arc  a  chancellor, 
chosen  by  the  general  council ;  vice-chancellor,  chosen 
by  the  chancellor ;  rector,  chosen  by  the  matriculated 
students ;  principal,  chosen  bj'  the  curators  ;  and  five 
assessors,  chosen  by  respectively  the  chancellor,  the 
504 


EDINBURGH 

town  council,  the  rector,  the  general  council,  and  the 
Senatus  Academicus.  The  University  Court  consists  of 
the  rector,  the  principal,  the  lord  provost  of  Edinburgh, 
and  the  five  assessors.  The  Senatus  Academicus  consists 
of  the  principal  and  the  professors.  The  winter  session, 
wdiich  comprehends  all  the  faculties,  opens  in  the  be- 
ginning of  November,  and  closes  for  certain  classes 
in  the  beginning  and  for  others  in  the  end  of  April. 
The  summer  session,  which  comprehends  only  the  facul- 
ties of  law  and  medicine,  with  tutorial  classes  in  arts, 
opens  in  the  beginning  of  May  and  closes  in  the  end  of 
July.  The  number  of  students  for  a  number  of  years, 
till  about  1S30,  was  generally  as  high  as  about  2000  ; 
it  afterwards  fell  till,  about  1858,  the  number  did  not 
average  much  above  800,  but  subsequently  rose  again 
till  it  reached  1513  in  1868,  1768  in  1871,  2076  in  1875, 
2617  in  1878,  2856  in  1879,  3172  in  1880  ;  and  there 
were  3237  students  in  residence  and  on  the  register  in 
1881.  The  students  were  divided  between  the  different 
faculties  in  1881  in  the  following  proi)ortions  : — Faculty 
of  arts,  1047  ;  law,  458  ;  divinity,  94  ;  and  medicine, 
1638.  The  list  of  graduates  for  1881  gave  the  following 
results: — In  arts,  97  took  the  degree  of  M.A.,  and  14 
the  degree  of  bachelor  of  science  (B.Sc. ) ;  in  divinity,  8 
took  the  degree  of  bachelor  of  divinity  (B.  D. ) ;  in  law, 
7  took  the  degi'ce  of  bachelor  of  laws  (LL.13. ),  and  2 
that  of  bachelor  of  law  (B.L. ) ;  in  medicine,  35  took  the 
degi-ee  of  doctor  of  medicine  (M.D.),  133  the  double 
degrees  of  bachelor  of  medicine  and  master  in  surgery 
(M.B.  and  CM.),  and  4  the  degree  of  M.B.  only.  The 
certificate  of  literate  in  arts  (L.A. )  was  granted  to  4 
successful  candidates.  The  General  Council  in  1881 
comprised  about  4500  members.  It  meets  twice  a  year, 
on  the  first  Tuesday  after  14  April  and  on  the  last 
Friday  in  October.  The  University  of  Edinburgh, 
under  the  Reform  Act  of  1867,  unites  with  the  Univer- 
sity of  St  Andrews  in  sending  a  representative  to  parlia- 
ment, and  tlie  number  of  members  who  voted  at  the 
first  election  in  1868  was  3263  ;  in  1881,  the  number  on 
the  roll  was  4438  ;  in  1882,  4525. 

Kcio  Medical  Buildings. — A  new  suite  of  college  build- 
ings, to  comprise  medical  class-rooms  and  a  university 
hall,  to  accommodate  2000  persons,  was,  as  originally 
proposed,  to  occupy  ground  opposite  the  old  Royal 
Infirmary.  The  removal  of  the  latter  building,  how- 
ever, led  to  a  reconsideration  of  this  proposal,  and  a 
site  was  bought  for  the  purpose  at  Teviot  Row  and  Park 
Place  for  about  £30,000.  The  projected  new  buildings 
were  estimated  to  cost  altogether  about  £200,000,  and 
were  to  include  class-rooms,  anatomical  theatre,  labora- 
tories, and  museums,  with  the  latest  scientific  improve- 
ments. The  removal  of  these  departments  from  the 
original  university  buildings,  it  was  expected,  would 
allow  the  reorganisation  of  the  existing  class-rooms,  and 
adapt  them  better  to  the  requirements  of  tlie  faculties  of 
arts,  divinity,  and  law  ;  give  room  for  a  university  hall 
for  the  conferring  of  degrees  ;  and  facilitate  the  improve- 
ment of  the  front  of  the  old  building.  The  new  buildings 
adjoin  the  Meadow  avenue,  and  are  in  the  street  line 
with  the  new  Infirmary,  having  their  principal  entrance 
from  Park  Place,  above  the  doorway  being  some  fine 
carved  work,  over  which  are  the  words,  '  Surgery,  Ana- 
tomy, Practice  of  Physic'  The  buildings  are  ranged 
round  two  large  quadrangular  courts,  which  serve  the 
purposes  of  promoting  ventilation  and  increasing  the 
facilities  for  lighting. '  The  N  court,  measuring  127  by 
85  feet,  lies  parallel  to  Teviot  Row,  from  which  it  enters 
through  a  great  central  entrance,  consisting  of  a  spacious 
archway  for  carriages  and  smaller  arched  foot  passage 
alongside,  separated  by  a  row  of  pillars.  The  range 
of  buildings  on  the  N  side  of  this  court  is  intended  for 
tlie  departments  of  materia  medica  and  medical  juris- 
lirudence.  The  S  court,  97  by  53  feet,  is  occupied  at 
the  E  end  by  the  anatomy  class-room,  58  by  42  feet, 
presenting  to  the  quadrangle  a  semicircular  outline, 
and  occupying  the  entire  height  of  the  building,  which 
is  46i  feet.  This  room  is  seated  for  500  students,  for 
whose  use  it  is  fitted  up  with  iron  desks,  supported  with 
iron  stanchions.     In  connection  with  this  anatomy  class- 


EDINBURGH 

room,  there  are  on  the  E  side  a  professor's  retiring- 
room,  14  by  20i  feet ;  a  work-room,  29  by  20  feet ;  and 
in  the  extreme  SE  corner  a  bone-room,  39  by  38  feet, 
for  tutorial  purposes.  Tlie  anatomical  museum  is  112 
feet  long  by  40  feet  wide.  Of  the  range  forming  the  S 
side  of  the  S  court,  the  iipper  floor,  measuring  108  feet 
in  length,  39  in  -n-idth,  and  27  in  height,  is  set  apart  as 
the  dissecting-room,  the  roof  being  formed  in  ridges 
glazed  towards  the  N,  so  as  to  afford  a  steady  light. 
There  are  also  six  windows,  14  feet  high  by  about  7  feet 
wide,  which  aid  both  the  ventilation  and  the  lighting 
of  the  room.  Grouped  conveniently  at  one  end  are 
cloak-rooms  and  lavatory  accommodation,  while  at  the 
other  end  are  a  demonstration-room,  21  by  9J  feet,  and 
another  smaller  room  for  the  demonstrator.  Above  this 
is  a  private  dissecting-room,  20  by  39  feet.  On  the  floor 
beneath,  adjoining  the  anatomy  class-room,  there  are 
the  microscopic-room,  40  by  17  feet,  ■with  N  light,  and 
accommodation  for  demonstrators  and  assistants  ;  while 
the  remainder  of  the  floor  is  set  apart  for  laboratory  and 
other  rooms  appropriated  to  this  department  of  research. 
All  the  class-rooms  are  furnished  with  ventilating  grates 
and  stone  fenders,  the  arrangements  generally  for  heat- 
ing and  ventilating  the  entire  building  being  of  a  most 
complete  description.  Nearly  all  the  rooms  have  '  ex- 
traction shafts,'  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  away  the 
vitiated  air  to  the  great  ventilating  stalk  in  the  centre  of 
the  buildings.  This  stalk  rests  on  a  square  base  18  feet 
wide,  and  rises  to  a  height  of  about  ISO  feet.  Near  the 
bottom  it  is  oOJ  feet  in  circumference,  while  at  the  top 
it  is  contracted  to  17i  feet.  About  150  feet  from  the 
base  there  are  eight  ornamental  openings  for  the  outlet 
of  the  vitiated  air  led  into  the  stalk  from  the  different 
class-rooms.  Up  the  centre  runs  a  chimney  made  of 
malleable  iron  boiler-plate,  2^  feet  in  diameter,  which 
escapes  at  the  cone-shaped  summit  of  the  shaft ;  and 
which,  by  heating  the  air  encircling  it,  produces  an 
efficient  draught  for  ventilating  purposes.  Owing  to  a 
fall  in  the  ground  in  the  S  court,  space  is  obtained  for 
a  commodious  basement  below  the  street  floor-level, 
which  is  devoted  to  cellarage  purposes.  Here  three 
boilers  are  also  fitted  up — two  in  connection  with  the 
heating,  and  the  third  for  supplying  hot  water  ;  while 
the  engine-room  likewise  contains  the  accumulator  for 
working  the  various  '  lifts '  in  the  schools.  Every  pre- 
caution has  been  taken  against  fire,  hydrants  being 
fitted  up  in  every  floor ;  while  the  pipes  laid  through 
the  class-rooms  rest  on  a  concrete  bottom,  the  covering 
on  the  top  consisting  of  flagstones.  The  buildings  were 
first  partially  opened  in  October  1880. 

Museum  of  Science  aiul  Art. — The  Industrial  Museum, 
or  Museum  of  Science  and  Art,  stands  immediately 
behind  the  University,  on  the  S  side  of  Chambers 
Street,  and  occupies  the  site  of  Argyle  Square,  the  old 
Trades'  Maiden  Hospital,  and  an  Independent  chapel. 
It  was  begun  in  the  lapng  of  its  foundation-stone  by 
the  late  Prince  Consort  in  October  1861,  and  was 
finished  to  the  extent  of  about  one -third  of  the  whole 
design,  and  formally  opened  to  the  public  in  May 
1866,  when  it  comprised  a  great  hall  105  feet  long, 
70  wide,  and  77  high,  a  natural  history  hall  130  feet 
long,  57  wide,  and  77  high,  a  S  hall  70  feet  long,  50 
^vide,  and  77  high,  and  a  NE  room  70  feet  long  and 
50  wide.  In  1871  it  was  further  enlarged  to  the  ex- 
tent of  more  than  one-third  of  the  whole  design,  and 
completed  in  the  spring  of  1874.  It  contains  in  that 
part  the  continuation  and  completion  of  the  great  hall, 
now  270  feet  long,  a  refreshment  hall  50  feet  long  and 
30  wide,  an  eastern  annexe  62  feet  long  and  50  wide,  a 
western  annexe  85  feet  long  and  70  wide,  some  other 
spacious  apartments,  and  a  range  of  workshops  ;  but 
the  whole  design  will  be  completed  by  the  erection  of 
its  western  wing,  for  which  Government  has  made  pro- 
vision in  the  estimates  of  1882-83.  It  will  measure  in  its 
completed  state  400  feet  in  length,  200  in  breadth,  and 
average  90  in  height.  It  is  externally  in  the  Venetian 
Renaissance  style,  and  internally  in  that  order  of  archi- 
tecture invented  by  Sir  Joseph  Paxton  for  the  Crystal 
Palace,  elaborated  and  systeraatised  by  Captain  Fowke, 


EDINBURGH 

who  also  furnished  the  design.  The  exterior  is  con- 
structed of  white  and  red  sandstone,  the  interior  is 
variously  and  elaborately  decorated  ;  the  roofing  is  in 
open  timber-work  and  glass ;  the  artificial  lighting  is 
ert"ected  by  means  of  horizontal  iron  rods  on  the  roof, 
studded  with  thousands  of  gas-jets  ;  and  the  entire 
aspect  is  light,  rich,  and  elegant.  A  glazed  gallery,  in 
form  of  a  bridge  spanning  West  College  Street,  com- 
municates between  its  E  end  and  the  interior  of  the 
University  buildings.  Temporary  entrances  were  in 
use  for  some  years,  but  the  main  entrance  is  now  in 
Chambers  Street  by  two  flights  of  broad  steps,  and 
consists  of  three  noble  round-headed  doorways  separated 
by  pilasters,  and  opening  into  a  spacious  vestibule. 

The  Museum  contains  the  splendid  collections  in 
natural  history  formerly  in  the  University ;  it  acquired, 
in  1867,  4206  additional  specimens  in  natural  history,  and 
2767  specimens  in  the  department  of  industrial  art;  and 
has  continued  in  subsequent  years  to  acquire  by  pur- 
chase or  by  gift  correspondingly  large  accessions  to  its 
contents.  In  its  natural  histoiy  department  it  contains 
over  ten  thousand  birds  and  upwards  of  a  thousand 
mammalia.  In  its  industrial  department  it  has  the 
largest  collections  of  raw  products  anywhere  in  the 
world,  together  with  illustrations  of  nearly  all  the 
principal  manufactures  of  Great  Britain,  and  many 
of  those  of  foreign  countries.  There  are  also  sections 
for  constructive  materials,  mining,  metallurgy,  ceramic 
art,  vitreous  manufactures,  decorative  arts,  textile 
manufactures,  photography,  materia  medica,  chemistry, 
food,  education,  and  other  departments.  Admission 
is  free  on  Wednesdays,  Fridays,  and  Saturdays,  but  6d. 
is  charged  on  Mondays,  Tuesda}-s,  and  Thursdays. 
The  niimber  of  visitors  to  it  in  the  week  ending  Feb. 
11,  1882,  was  free  days,  2536  ;  evenings,  3016  ;  pay 
days,  75 — total,  5627  ;  and  this  may  be  taken  as  a  fair 
average.  The  total  number  of  visitors  since  the  open- 
ing to  the  same  date  was  5,863,579.  A  series  of  lectures 
to  citizens,  chiefly  by  University  professors,  was  delivered 
for  several  years  in  evenings  of  the  winter  months. 
It  usually  comprised  six  or  seven  courses,  on  as  many 
different  sciences  or  scientific  subjects ;  was  accessible 
for  a  fee  of  one  shilling  for  each  course,  and  was  attended 
in  1869-70  by  1386  persons,  in  the  previous  winter  by  a 
larger  number  ;  but  the  lectures  were  eventually  discon- 
tinued in  consequence  of  inadequate  remuneration  to 
the  lecturers.  Space  was  afforded  in  the  part  finished  in 
1874  for  bringing  into  view  great  and  valuable  accumu- 
lations of  interesting  objects  which  could  not  pre- 
viously be  shown,  and  space  will  be  available  both 
there  and  in  the  designed  western  wing  for  any  amount 
of  accumulations  which  can  be  made  for  many  years  to 
come. 

Extra  Mural  Medical  Schools. — Surgeons'  Hall  stands 
on  the  E  side  of  Nicolson  Street,  about  100  yards  from  the 
University,  and  was  built  in  1833,  after  a  design  by  W.  H. 
Playfair,  at  a  cost  of  £20,000.  It  is  a  large  and  splendid 
edifice  in  the  Grecian  style,  contrasting  strongly  with 
the  plain  buildings  in  its  neighbourhood  ;  presents  a 
main  front  to  the  street,  mostly  covered  with  a  lofty 
hexastyle  Ionic  portico,  the  base  in  the  form  of  a 
curtain-wall,  the  columns  fluted  and  well  proportioned, 
the  frieze  and  the  tj-mpanum  adorned  with  fine  carved 
work ;  is  entered  by  two  pedimented  doorways  at  the 
ends  of  the  curtain-wall ;  and  contains  apartments  for 
meetings,  tastefully -fitted  galleries,  and  valuable 
museums,  consisting  chiefly  of  anatomical  and  patho- 
logical subjects.  The  Royal  College  of  Surgeons,  to 
whom  the  hall  belongs,  was  incorporated  in  1505,  and 
re-incorporated  in  1778  ;  maintains  courses  of  lectures 
to  students  of  medicine  ;  issues  diplomas,  and  serves  as 
a  coadjutor  to  the  medical  faculty  of  the  University ; 
and,  together  with  the  Royal  Collc.cje  of  Physicians,  is 
recognised  in  the  Medical  Act  of  1858.  Its  winter 
course  of  lectures  comprises  surgery,  chemistry,  phy.sio- 
logy,  medical  jurisprudence,  clinical  medicine,  clinical 
su'rgery,  anatomy,  pathologj',  and  practice  of  physic ; 
and  the  summer  course  includes  some  of  these,  and  adds 
i  midwifery,   botany,  natural  philosophy,  histology,  in- 

505 


EDINBURGH 

sanity,  history  of  medicine,   dental   surgery,  venereal 
diseases,  and  surgical  appliances. 

The  Physicians'  Hall,  from  1775  till  1845,  was  on  the 
S  side  of  George  Street,  on  the  ground  now  occupied  by 
the  Commercial  Bank  ;  and  was  a  beautiful  structure 
three  stories  high,  in  pure  Grecian  style,  with  a  tetra- 
style  Corinthian  portico.  The  present  hall  stands  in 
Queen  Street,  midway  between  St  David  Street  and 
Hanover  Street ;  was  built  in  1845  after  designs  by  T. 
Hamilton  ;  has  a  Corinthian  portico  of  unique  character, 
comprising  successively  a  tetrastyle,  an  entablature,  a 
distyle  in  entablature,  and  a  pediment ;  and  contains  a 
fine  hall  for  meetings  and  a  good  museum.  The  tetra- 
style of  its  portico  has  columns  of  the  rare  quasi-Corin- 
thian kind  called  by  some  architects  the  Attic  ;  the  ends 
of  the  first  entablature  are  surmounted  by  statues  of 
Esculapius  and  Hippocrates,  from  the  chisel  of  A.  H. 
Eitchie  ;  and  the  apex  of  the  pediment  is  crowned  by  a 
statue  of  Hygeia.  A  new  library-hall  was  added  in 
1877  ;  this  hall  is  55  feet  long  and  32  feet  \vide,  with  a 
circular  ceiling,  27  feet  6  inches  high  in  tlie  centre, 
divided  into  panels,  ten  of  which  are  filled  in  with  glass. 
This  hall  is  in  the  Italian  style,  and  was  designed  by 
Mr  David  Bryce.  The  Royal  College  of  Physicians,  to 
whom  the  hall  belongs,  was  incorporated  in  1681  ; 
possesses  an  exclusive  but  obsolete  privilege  of  practising 
medicine  within  certain  limits  of  the  ancient  city ;  is 
charged  with  the  public  duty  of  preventing  the  sale  of 
adulterated  drugs  ;  maintains  an  annual  course  of  six 
lectures  on  mental  diseases  ;  and  indii'ectly  supports  the 
medical  schools  of  the  city. 

The  Minto  House  School  of  Medicine  occupies  verj^ 
nearly  the  site  of  the  old  building  which  bore  this  name ; 
is  a  very  handsome  building  with  ornate  front  in  keeping 
with  the  Industrial  Museum,  opposite  which  it  stands 
in  Chambers  Street ;  and  has  a  statf  of  seventeen  lecturers. 
The  Dental  School,  in  Chambers  Street,  occupies  one  of 
the  old  buildings  in  Brown  Square,  which  has  been 
adapted  for  the  purpose,  and  has  a  staff  of  five 
lecturers.  The  School  of  Medicine  and  Pharmacy  is 
in  one  of  the  new  buildings  in  Marshall  Street,  and 
has  five  lecturers. 

The  Veterinary  College  stands  on  the  N  side  of  Clyde 
Street,  near  the  NE  corner  of  St  Andrew  Square  ;  is  a 
modern  three-story  edifice  in  plain  Doric  style  ;  and 
possesses  apartments  and  appliances  for  the  instruction 
of  students  in  veterinary  medicine.  The  institution  was 
established  in  1818  ;  was  patronised  by  the  Highland 
and  Agricultural  Society  of  Scotland  in  1823  ;  and  is 
under  the  trusteeship  and  patronage  of  the  magistrates 
and  town  council  of  Edinburgh.  It  is  conducted  by 
a  principal,  four  professors,  and  two  assistants  ;  and 
maintains  lectures  on  veterinary  medicine  and  surgery, 
cattle  pathology  and  materia  medica,  physiology, 
chemistry  and  chemical  pharmacy,  anatomy  and 
anatomical  demonstrations,  and  on  clinical  medicine 
and  clinical  surgery.  The  winter  session  commences 
early  in  November,  and  continues  till  the  end  of  April ; 
and  the  summer  session  commences  in  the  second  week 
of  May,  and  continiies  till  the  end  of  July.  The  New 
Veterinary  College  was  established  in  1873  within  Gay- 
field  House,  off  the  N  side  of  East  London  Street ;  pos- 
sesses new  adjuncts  of  yards  and  premises  suited  to  all 
the  purposes  of  instruction  ;  is  afhliated  with  the  Royal 
College  of  Veterinary  Surgeons,  the  board  of  examiners 
in  Scotland,  and  incorporated  by  royal  charter  in  1844. 
It  is  conducted  by  a  principal  and  five  professors  ;  and 
maintains  lectures  in  veterinary  medicine  and  surgery, 
anatomy  and  anatomical  demonstrations,  physiology, 
chemistry  and  toxicology,  materia  medica  and  therapeu- 
tics, botany  at  the  Botanic  Garden,  practical  pharmacy, 
and  in  clinical  instruction. 

Itoyal  Institution. — The  edifice  called  the  Royal  Insti- 
tution stands  on  the  N  end  of  the  Mound.  It  has  a 
proximately  oblong  form,  with  the  short  fronts  to  the  N 
and  the  S,  and  rests  on  a  substructure  of  wooden  piles 
and  cross-bearers,  rendered  necessary  by  the  ground 
being  travelled  earth.  It  was  founded  in  1823,  extended 
in  1832,  and  completed  in  1836,  after  designs  by  W,  H. 
506 


EDINBURGH 

Playfair,  at  a  cost  of  £40,000,  and  is  in  pure  Doric  style 
of  the  era  of  Pericles,  and  somewhat  resembles  a  perip- 
teral temple,  with  fluted  columns  along  all  the  face  of 
its  four  sides,  resting  on  flights  of  steps,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  uniform  entablature.  The  N  front  con- 
tains the  principal  entrance,  approached  by  a  noble 
flight  of  steps  ;  and  it  has  a  magnificent  portico  with 
three  lines  of  columns,  the  first  and  the  second  line  con- 
taining each  eight  columns,  the  third  line  containing 
two  ;  while  a  massive  pediment,  with  richly  carved 
tympanum,  surmounts  the  entablature.  The  S  front 
corresponds,  in  form  and  ornament,  to  the  N  one,  but 
has  only  two  lines  of  columns,  the  first  with  eight 
columns,  and  the  second  with  four,  in  antes.  The  E 
and  the  W  fronts  are  precisely  alike  ;  and  each  of  them 
has  a  distyle  projection  at  both  ends,  and  seventeen 
columns  between  the  two  projections.  The  walls,  at 
the  inter-columniations  are  pierced  with  windows  ;  the 
summit  of  the  N  front,  as  formerly  noticed,  is  crowned 
with  a  colossal  statue  of  Queen  Victoria ;  and  the  summit 
of  each  of  the  four  distyle  projections  is  cro\\Tied  with  a 
pair  of  sphinxes.  The  edifice  contains  the  apartments 
of  the  Royal  Institution  for  the  encouragement  of  the 
fine  arts  in  Scotland  ;  the  apartments  of  the  Board  of 
Trustees  for  the  encouragement  of  manufactures  and 
fisheries  ;  those  of  the  Royal  Society  of  Edinburgh, 
comprising  library,  museum,  and  select  gallery  of  por- 
traits ;  the  class-rooms  of  the  school  of  design ;  a 
gallery  of  statuary  ;  and  the  Antiquarian  Museum. 

The  school  of  design  has  a  salaried  staff  of  directors, 
two  preceptors,  and  a  lecturer ;  dates  from  the  j'ear 
1760  ;  and  was  attended  in  1880-81  by  490  male  pupils, 
and  326  female  pupils — less  by  25  the  total  of  the  preced- 
ing years,  the  falling  off  being  attributable  greatly  to  the 
inconvenient  crowding  of  the  class-rooms.  The  gallery 
of  statuary  contains  casts  of  the  Elgin  marbles,  of  all 
the  celebrated  ancient  statues,  and  of  the  Ghiberti  gates 
at  Florence,  as  well  as  a  series  of  casts  of  antique 
Greek  and  Roman  busts,  originally  collected  at  Rome  ; 
and  it  is  open,  for  a  charge  of  6d.,  from  10  till 
4  on  Wednesdaj's  and  Frida3-s,  and  free  from  10  till 
4  on  Saturdays.  The  Antiquarian  Museum  belongs 
to  the  Society  of  Scottish  Antiquaries,  instituted  in 
1780,  and  chartered  in  1783  ;  is  now  maintained  as  a 
national  museum,  at  the  expense  of  Government  ;  was 
lodged  from  1781  till  1787  in  a  house  in  Cowgate,  till 
1793  in  Chessels  buildings  in  Canongate,  till  1813  in 
Gosford's  Close  in  Lawnmarket,  till  1825  in  the  house 
42  George  Street,  till  1844  in  the  Royal  Institution,  till 
1860  in  the  building  in  George  Street  containing  the 
Edinburgh  Life  Assurance  Company's  office  ;  was  then 
brought  back  to  the  Royal  Institution  ;  was  rearranged 
there  with  much  improvement ;  and  is  open  to  the 
public  for  a  charge  of  6d.  on  Thursdays  and  Fridays, 
and  free  on  Tuesdays,  Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays. 
Some  of  the  many  interesting  objects  in  it  are  ancient 
sculptures  from  various  countries,  Egyptian  antiquities, 
ancient  British  utensils  and  implements,  Romano- 
British  pottery  and  glass,  old  Scottish  wood-carvings, 
relics  from  the  Swiss  lake-dwellings,  two  metallic  crosses 
and  a  curious  iron  fetter  from  Abyssinia,  instruments 
of  torture  and  punishment  formerly  used  in  Scotland, 
the  Scottish  '  Jlaiden '  or  guillotine,  John  Knox's 
pulpit  from  St  Giles'  Church,  an  old  stool  alleged  to 
have  been  that  which  Jenny  Geddes  hurled  at  the  head 
of  the  Dean  of  St  Giles',  the  '  stool  of  repentance  '  from 
Old  Greyfriars'  Church,  the  original  copies  on  vellum  cf 
Solemn  League  and  Covenant,  the  banner  of  the  covenant 
used  at  the  battle  of  Bothwell  Brig,  a  collection  of 
relics  and  memorials  of  the  principal  political  and 
other  controversies  of  former  times,  the  blue  ribbon 
worn  by  Prince  Charles  Edward  as  a  Knight  of  the 
Garter  in  1745,  a  collection  of  old  paper  money,  Scottish, 
American,  and  French,  and  autographs  of  Queen  Mary, 
James  VI.,  Charles  I.,  Cromwell,  and  other  notable 
persons.  The  number  of  visitors  to  the  museum  in  the 
course  of  a  year  has  steadily  increased  from  about  67,000 
in  1861,  to  upwards  of  120,000  at  the  present  time. 
Art  Galleries. — The  building,  called  variously  the  Art 


EDINBURGH 

Gallery  and  the  National  Gallery,  stands  on  the  central 
and  southern  parts  of  the  Mound,  and  occupies  a  site 
computed  to  be  worth  £30,000,  but  given  free  by  the 
town  council.  To  erect  it,  vast  excavations  and  sub- 
structions had  to  be  made,  and  extensive  improvements 
on  the  adjacent  ground  had  to  be  effected,  either  pre- 
paratory to  its  own  construction,  or  in  order  to  har- 
monise it  with  surrounding  structures.  The  building 
was  commenced  in  August  1850,  in  the  laying  of  its 
foundation-stone  by  the  late  Prince  Consort,  but  did  not 
reach  completion  till  1858,  and  cost,  directly  or  in- 
dii-ectly,  about  £40,000.  It  was  designed  to  provide 
suitable  accommodation  for  the  annual  exhibition  of  the 
Royal  Scottish  Academy,  for  the  extension  of  the  school 
of  design,  and  for  the  instituting  of  a  Scottish  national 
gallery  of  painting  and  sculpture  ;  was  erected  after  de- 
signs by  W.  H.  Playfair  in  the  Greek-Ionic  style,  about 
the  same  width  as  the  Royal  Institution,  but  nearly  a 
third  longer  ;  and  extends  in  main  length  from  N  to  S, 
but  has  a  short,  broad,  high  transept  intersecting  the 
middle,  so  as  to  be  comparatively  cruciform.  The  N  and 
S  fronts  are  exactly  alike,  but  the  former  is  in  a  great 
degree  hidden  by  the  Royal  Institution,  while  the  latter 
stands  so  much  lower  than  the  adjacent  roadway  as  to 
be  visible  only  at  a  very  close  view  ;  and  each  is  com- 
pletely faced  with  an  Ionic  portico  of  two  projecting 
wings  and  a  centre,  each  wing  having  four  columns  and 
a  pediment,  and  the  centre  having  two  columns  in  antes 
and  a  balustrade.  The  E  and  the  W  fronts  are  con- 
spicuous from  all  points,  high  and  low,  whence  the 
Mound  itself  can  be  seen  ;  and  the  transept  face  of  each 
displays  a  handsome  hexastyle  Ionic  portico  with  a 
pediment,  while  the  rest  of  the  wall  presents  a  bald  ap- 
pearance, relieved  only  by  pilasters  and  b}'  a  balustered 
parapet.  The  eastern  division  of  the  edifice  contains 
five  octagonal  apartments,  lighted  by  cupolas  ;  is  occu- 
pied by  the  Royal  Scottish  Academy :  and,  from  February 
to  May  every  year,  is  used  for  exhibitions  of  the  works 
of  living  artists,  and  then  is  so  much  frefjuented  as  to 
be  the  most  fashionable  lounge  in  the  city.  The  western 
division  has  a  similar  arrangement  to  the  eastern,  and 
is  devoted  entirely  to  the  National  Gallery  as  a  perma- 
nent collection  of  works  of  art.  The  collection  includes 
works,  or  copies  of  works,  by  Titian,  Tintoretto,  Guido, 
Paul  Veronese,  Francesco,  Albano,  Spagnoletto,  Van- 
dyke, Rembrandt,  Velasquez,  and  other  continental 
masters  ;  portraits  by  Sir  Thomas  La^\Tence,  Sir  Henry 
Raeburn,  Sir  John  W.  Gordon,  and  Graham  Gilbert ; 
works  of  Sir  George  Harvey,  Sir  Noel  Paton,  Horatio 
Macculloch,  Dyce,  Ettj',  Roberts,  Faed,  Herdman, 
Chalmers,  and  other  modern  artists ;  some  very  fine 
specimens  of  water-colour  drawings  ;  and  the  statue  of 
the  poet  Burns  by  Flaxman.  Admission  to  the  National 
Gallery  is  given  for  a  charge  of  6d.  on  Thursdays  and 
Fridays,  and  free  on  Jlondays,  Tuesdays,  Wednesdays, 
and  Saturdays. 

The  Albert  Gallery  was  projected  in  1876,  in  connec- 
tion with  an  institution  to  be  styled  the  Albert  Institute 
of  the  Fine  Arts,  and  erected  on  the  N  side  of  Shandwick 
Place,  at  a  cost  of  £25,000,  irom  designs  byW.  Beattie  ; 
it  was  designed  for  an  art  exhibition  and  artist's  studios, 
■with  shops  on  the  ground  floor.  The  Institute  was  in- 
tended to  promote  the  encouragement  of  fine  art  in 
general,  and  contemporary  Scottish  art  in  particular,  by 
an  autumn  exhibition  of  water  colours,  a  -vdnter  exhibi- 
tion of  painting  and  sculpture,  and  generally  throughout 
the  year  by  the  exhibition  and  sale  of  works  of  art. 
Failing  to  succeed  in  these  objects,  this  ornate  building 
is  now  occupied  by  the  Scottish  Meteorological  Society, 
the  Edinburgh  School  of  Cookery,  and  the  offices  of 
several  lawyers  and  others. 

Scientific  and  Literary  Institutions. — The  old  Royal 
Observatory  stands  on  Calton  Hill,  to  the  N  of  Dugald 
Stewart's  Monument,  and  was  projected  in  1736,  but  not 
founded  till  1776.  It  was  erected  after  designs  by  Craig 
and  Adam,  and  intended  to  have  the  form  of  a  fortress, 
but  completed  to  only  a  small  portion  of  the  design,  and 
never  properly  served  its  purpose.  It  is  a  plain,  dingy, 
three-story  structure,  in  the  form  of  a  strong  tower, 


EDINBURGH 

and  contains  a  self-registering  anemometer  and  a  rain 
gauge.  The  new  Royal  Observatory  stands  on  the 
summit  of  Calton  Hill,  on  a  tabular  open  tract  E  of 
the  old  Observatory,  and  was  founded  in  1818,  and  built 
after  a  design  by  W.  H.  Playfair,  in  the  form  of  a  St 
George's  Cross,  measuring  62  feet  from  N  to  S,  and  from  E 
to  W.  It  exhibits  on  each  of  its  four  fronts  a  hexastyle 
Doric  portico,  •with  handsome  pediment;  is  surmounted, 
at  the  centre,  by  a  dome  13  feet  in  diameter;  has  the 
mural  circle  in  the  W,  the  transit  instrument  and  the 
astronomical  clock  in  the  E,  and  a  solid  pillar  19  feet 
high,  for  the  astronomical  circle,  in  the  centre  at  the 
dome.  It  was  improved  in  1871  by  the  construction  of  an 
astronomer's  house,  with  supplementary  rooms  for  [lur- 
poses  of  observation  ;  and  maintains  true  time  through- 
out the  city,  partly  by  aid  of  electro-controlled  clocks, 
and  partly  by  the  two  simultaneous  signals  of  time-ball 
and  time-gun.  Short's  Observatory,  on  Castle  Hill, 
serves  rather  as  a  place  of  amusement  than  for  strictly 
scientific  purposes,  and  has  already  been  noticed. 

The  Royal  Botanic  Garden  was  founded  by  Sir  Andrew 
Balfour  and  Sir  Robert  Sibbald  in  1670,  and  was  used 
for  the  purpose  of  teaching  by  the  professor  of  botany 
in  the  University  from  1676.  As  already  stated,  its  first 
site  was  in  the  valley  to  the  rear  of  the  Post  Office, 
in  a  district  long  after  kno\\'n  as  the  Physic  Gardens. 
In  1763  it  was  transferred  to  Leith  Walk,  whence, 
in  1824,  it  was  removed  to  Inverleith  Row.  It  was 
greatly  enlarged  about  1867,  by  inclusion  of  the 
contiguous  Experimental  Garden.  It  contains  a  super- 
intendent's house,  a  lecture  room,  a  museum,  a  mag- 
netic observatorj',  extensive  hot-houses,  splendid  palm- 
houses,  a  Linnrean  arrangement,  an  extensive  Pine- 
tum,  collections  of  native  plants  and  medical  plants,  a 
winter  garden,  a  magnificent  rockery,  and  some  tasteful 
groupings  of  parterre  and  shrubbery.  Within  the  last 
few  years  the  mansion-house  and  policy  of  Inverleith 
have  been  acquired  by  government  and  the  city  cor- 
poration, and  the  grounds,  extending  to  about  30  acres, 
are  converted  into  an  Arboretum  or  general  collection 
of  trees  and  shrubs  scientifically  named  and  arranged. 
There  is  one  curator  for  Botanic  Garden  and  Arboretum. 
The  lecture-room  is  supplemented  by  a  class  museum,  a 
large  herbarium,  an  apparatus  for  histology,  and  demon- 
strations in  the  hot-houses  and  in  the  open  ground ;  and 
is  largely  attended  in  the  summer  months  by  students  of 
both  sexes  in  different  classes.  So  popular  have  these 
botanical  classes  become,  that  it  was  found  necessary  to 
erect,  in  ISSO,  an  additional  class-room  to  accommodate 
600  students,  the  former  class-room  not  afibrding  room 
for  more  than  about  350,  so  that  the  professor  had  to 
deliver  the  same  lecture  twice  every  day  to  separate 
classes  of  students,  there  being  at  that  time  about  500 
students  attending  the  Garden  in  the  course  of  their 
University  studies.  The  new  building  is  in  the  form  of 
an  octagon,  springing  from  the  W  gable  of  the  old  class- 
room, and  carried  outwards  in  breadth  12  feet  on  either 
side,  and  in  length  50  feet.  The  hot-houses  were  founded 
in  1835,  and  gradually  extended  to  a  great  range,  com- 
prising now  a  large  octagon  in  the  centre,  and  two 
lateral  wings  with  each  a  central  octagonal  compartment ; 
the  large  central  octagon  being  added  so  late  as  1872. 
This  structure  has  a  diameter  of  only  40  feet,  but  pro- 
jects at  the  end  into  graceful  connection  with  the  wings ; 
rises,  in  columnar  form,  from  a  3-foot  dado  course,  to  a 
height  of  23  feet ;  exhibits  there  a  moulded  entablature 
of  architrave,  frieze,  and  cornice  ;  and  has  a  roof  of  two 
stages,  with  an  octagonal  dome,  20  feet  in  diameter,  15 
feet  high,  and  crowned  with  ornamental  cresting  at  an 
elevation  of  45  feet  from  the  ground.  Tlio  chief  Palm- 
house  is  96  feet  long,  57  wide,  and  70  high  ;  and  con- 
tains magnificent  specimens  of  both  herbaceous  and 
ligneous  endogens.  The  Rock-Garden  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  Europe  ;  presents  a  succession  of  bays  and 
angles  ;  rises,  in  terrace  over  terrace,  to  a  height  of  18 
feet ;  has  a  width  of  120  feet,  and  a  length  of  190  feet ; 
is  divided  into  uniform  geometrical  sections,  and  sub- 
divided into  more  than  4000  variously-sized  compart- 
ments ;    and   commands,   from  its   topmost  terrace,  a 

507 


EDINBURGH 

strikingly  picturesque  view  of  Edinburgh.  Several  trees 
in  the  garden  were  planted  as  memorial  trees  by  the 
late  Prince  Consort,  the  Prince  of  Wales,  and  the  Duke 
of  Edinburgh.  The  garden  is  free  to  the  public,  on 
every  lawful  day  in  winter,  from  daylight  till  dark — in 
summer  till  8  p.  M. 

The  Experimental  Garden,  which  lay  contiguous  to 
the  S  side  of  the  Botanic,  and  is  now  included  in 
it,  was  formed  in  1S24.  It  comprised  about  10  acres 
of  ground ;  contained  a  superintendent's  house,  an 
exhibition  hall,  several  hot-houses,  and  a  beautiful 
arrangement  of  lawn,  parterre,  shrubbery,  orchard, 
and  kitchen-garden ;  and  belonged  to  a  society  insti- 
tuted in  1809  for  improving  the  cultivation  of  flowers, 
fruits,  and  culinary  vegetables. — A  large  winter  garden 
occupies  the  corner  between  Coates  Gardens  and  the 
Glasgow  Road,  in  the  vicinity  of  Haymarket,  belongs 
to  the  proprietor  of  a  neighbouring  nursery,  and  was 
formed  ia  1870-71.  It  has  a  S  main  front  130  feet  long, 
■with  a  central  building  50  feet  wide  and  30  long,  sur- 
mounted by  a  handsome  dome  65  feet  high  ;  includes  a 
northerly  annexe,  50  feet  long  and  28  wide  ;  has,  be- 
neath the  entrance  dome,  a  terra-cotta  fountain,  and  a 
rich  arrangement  of  hot-house  plants  ;  and  contains  a 
covered  way,  a  fern-house  37  feet  long  and  20  wide, 
several  ranges  of  hot-houses,  and  a  series  of  stove,  green, 
and  propagating  houses. — There  was  once  a  Zoological 
Garden  in  Broughton  Park,  at  the  E  end  of  East  Glare- 
mont  Street,  formed  in  1840.  It  comprised  a  consider- 
able extent  of  ground,  tastefully  disposed  in  walks  and 
flower-plots  ;  contained,  for  a  number  of  years,  an  in- 
teresting collection  of  wild  animals ;  and  was  often  used 
for  musical  promenades,  firework  fetes,  and  other  enter- 
tainments; but,  proving  a  failure,  was  abolished  in 
1860. 

The  Watt  Institution  and  School  of  Arts  dates  from 
1821.  It  had  a  jilain  building  with  several  halls  in  Adam 
Square,  which  required  to  be  taken  down  in  1871  to 
make  way  for  the  formation  of  Chambers  Street ; 
obtained  in  lieu  of  that  building  a  site  for  a  new  one 
in  Chambers  Street,  together  with  £7000  toward  the 
erection  of  the  new  edifice,  and  certain  other  concessions 
worth  about  £350.  It  is  patronised  by  tlie  Lord  Provost, 
managed  by  a  body  of  directors,  and  conducted  by 
fifteen  lecturers  and  teachers,  and  gives  instruction  in 
mathematics,  natural  philosoph}',  chemistry,  botany, 
and  natural  history,  French,  German,  Greek,  Latin, 
English  language  and  literature,  phonography,  arith- 
metic, architectural,  mechanical,  geometrical,  machine, 
and  free-hand  drawing,  engineering,  history,  economic 
science,  ph3'siology,  geology,  biology,  and  music  ;  serving 
generally  as  an  academy  of  science,  art,  and  literature  to 
the  operative  classes,  and  attended  in  1877-78  by  3022 
students,  in  1879-80  by  3100,  in  1880-81  by  3176. 
The  new  building  for  it  is  at  the  W  corner  of  the  semi- 
circular recess  opposite  the  Industrial  Museum ;  was 
erected  in  1872-73  after  designs  by  David  Rhind  ;  rises 
to  the  height  of  two  stories,  with  an  additional  pavilion 
story  in  the  W  ;  has  a  projecting  porch  surmounted  by 
the  statue  of  James  Watt,  whicli  formerly  stood  in 
Adam  Square  ;  and  contains  a  lecture-hall  with  accom- 
modation for  680  persons,  another  hall  34  feet  long  and 
33  feet  wide,  a  chemical  class-room  33  feet  long  and  23 
feet  wide,  a  mechanical  philosophy  apparatus-room, 
and  the  spacious  general  class-rooms.  It  lias  been  pro- 
posed to  affiliate  the  Watt  Institution  witli  the  Heriot 
Hospital  Trust,  and  to  call  it  in  future  the  Watt-Heriot 
Institute,  but  as  yet  this  proposal  has  not  received 
practical  effect. 

The  Royal  Association  for  promoting  the  Fine  Arts  in 
Scotland  holds  its  ordinary  meetings  in  a  hall  at  67 
George  Street,  being  founded  in  1833,  and  incorporated 
by  royal  cliarter  in  1847  ;  and  though  not  maintaining 
any  regular  public  lectures,  it  supplies  from  time  to  time 
prelections  on  interesting  subjects  connected  with  the 
useful  arts.  The  Philosophical  Institution  has  premises 
at  4  Queen  Street,  a  news-room,  a  reading-room,  and 
an  extensive  library,  and  ofl'ers  free  admission  to  these 
to  strangers  who  are  members  of  kindred  institutions.  It 
508 


EDINBURGH 

aff'ords  class  instruction,  in  some  departments,  to  such 
of  its  own  members  as  desire  it ;  and  maintains  in  a 
neighbouring  hall,  formerly  occupied  by  the  offices  of 
the  U.  P.  church,  a  winter  course  of  lectures  by  distin- 
guished men,  on  a  variety  of  philosophica4,  literary, 
and  miscellaneous  subjects.  The  Edinburgh  Literary 
Institute  was  incorporated  in  1870  ;  erected  in  South 
Clerk  Street  a  handsome  edifice,  whicli  was  publicly 
opened  in  January  1S72  ;  has  there  a  news-room  and  a 
library,  each  measuring  36  feet  by  24,  a  ladies'  reading 
and  conversation  room,  a  well-appointed  billiard-room, 
and  a  fine  hall  originally  107  feet  long,  55  wide,  and 
30  high,  but  curtailed  and  improved  in  1875  at  a  cost 
of  about  £400  ;  and  maintains  lectures  on  a  variety 
of  literary  subjects,  and  occasional  concerts.  A  similar 
institution  was  opened  in  February  18S2  at  ^lorningside. 
The  Working  Men's  Club  and  Literary  Institute  occu- 
pies a  portion  of  the  Ro\-al  Exchange  Square,  and  has 
news-room,  billiard,  bagatelle,  chess,  and  draught 
rooms,  and  a  library  ;  the  number  of  visitors  during 
1881  being  51,183. 

Other  scientific  and  literary  institutions  are  the  Royal 
Medical  Society,  instituted  in  1737,  chartered  in  1778,  and 
meeting  in  a  hall  at  7  Melbourne  Place  ;  the  Spec^ulative 
Society,  instituted  in  1764,  and  meeting  in  a  hall  in 
the  University ;  the  Harveian  Society,  instituted  in 
1782  ;  the  Obstetrical  Society,  No.  5  St  Andrew  Square ; 
the  Medico-Chirurgical  Society,  instituted  in  1821  ;  the 
Odonto-Chirurgical  Society  ;  the  North  British  Branch 
of  the  Pharmaceutical  Society ;  the  Juridical  Society, 
instituted  in  1773,  and  meeting  in  a  hall  at  No.  40 
Charlotte  Square  ;  the  Sco^s  Law  Society,  instituted  in 
1815  ;  the  Botanical  Society,  instituted  in  1836  ;  the 
Geological  Society,  instituted  in  1834  ;  the  Royal 
Physical  Society,  instituted  in  1771,  and  chartered  in 
1788  ;  the  Arboricultural  Society  ;  the  Phrenological 
Association  and  Museum  in  Chambers  Street ;  the 
Meteorological  Society,  instituted  in  1855  ;  the  Photo- 
graphic Society,  established  in  1861  ;  the  Horological 
Society,  instituted  in  1862  ;  the  Tusculan  Society,  in- 
stituted in  1822  ;  the  Actuarial  Society,  instituted  in 
1859  ;  the  Bankers'  Literary  Association  ;  the  Diag- 
nostic Society,  instituted  in  1816,  and  meeting  weekly 
during  the  College  winter  session ;  the  University 
Philomathic  Debating  Society,  instituted  in  1858  ;  the 
Architectural  Association,  No.  5  St  Andrew  Square ; 
the  Architectural  Institute,  constituted  in  1850  ;  the 
Educational  Institute,  formed  in  1847,  and  chartered 
in  1857  ;  the  Subscription  Library,  No.  24  George 
Street,  instituted  in  1794  ;  the  Select  Subscription 
Library,  26  AVaterloo  Place,  instituted  in  1800  ;  and 
the  Mechanics'  Subscription  Library,  No.  3  Victoria 
Terrace,  instituted  in  1825. 

Classical  Schools. — The  High  School  dates,  under  the 
name  of  Grammar  School,  from  1519.  It  sprang  from 
a  school  at  Ilolyrood,  which  probably  existed  as  early 
as  the  beginning  of  the  12th  century,  and  liad  not,  for 
a  number  of  years,  any  building  of  its  own,  either  new 
or  hired.  It  occupied,  for  some  time  a  dwelling-house 
in  Blackfriars  Wynd,  which  had  been  a  palace  of  Arch- 
bishop Beaton  ;  was  removed  in  1555  to  a  house  at  the 
E  side  of  Kirk  of  Field,  near  the  head  of  what  came  to 
be  called  High  School  Wynd  ;  and  acquired  in  1578  a 
new  building  for  itself,  within  the  Blackfriars'  cemetery, 
on  ground  at  the  foot  of  Infirmary  Street,  giving  to 
the  tract  around  it  the  name  of  High  School  Yards. 
Another  edifice,  erected  on  or  near  the  same  site  in  1777, 
was  neat  and  commodious,  and  might  have  continued 
suitable  for  many  years  yet  to  come  ;  but,  owiu''  to  the 
plebeian  character  of  its  vicinity,  and  the  unhealthiness 
of  the  locality,  it  lost  caste  in  the  eyes  of  the  citizens 
of  the  New  Town,  when  a  new  and  more  eligible  site 
was  sought  for,  and  the  old  school  transferred  to  the 
directors  of  the  Infirmary,  to  be  used  as  a  surgical 
hospital.  The  present  edifice  stands  on  the  S  face 
of  Calton  Hill,  a  little  above  the  line  of  Regent 
Road,  about  160  yards  E  from  the  Prison.  It  is 
built  on  a  terrace  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  sheltered 
from  the  N  wind,  but  somewhat  exposed  to  the  E  and 


EDINBURGH 


EDINBURGH 


the  TV ;  commands  along  its  front,  towards  the  S,  one 
of  the  richest  town  and  country  views  of  Edinburgh  and 
its  environs  ;  and  forms  itself  a  noble  feature  in  the  views 
from  most  parts  of  the  Queen's  Park.  It  was  erected  in 
1825-29,  after  designs  by  Thomas  Hamilton,  at  a  cost  of 
£30,000  ;  has  a  curtain- wall  in  front  of  its  main  build- 
ing, but  at  considerably  lower  level,  extending  in  a 
gentle  curve  along  the  edge  of  the  public  pavement, 
with  two  lodges  at  the  ends,  and  measuring  iipwards  of 
400  feet  in  length  ;  consists,  in  its  main  building,  of  a 
centre,  two  lofty  open  corridors,  and  two  wings,  with 
an  aggregate  frontage  of  '270  feet ;  has  a  play-ground  of 
nearly  2  acres,  formed  into  a  level  by  deep  cutting  in 
the  face  of  the  hill ;  and  is  enclosed  with  neat  iron-railing. 
The  two  lodges  are  in  the  Doric  style  ;  present  their 
flank  to  the  road  and  their  fronts  toward  each  other ; 
have  each  a  tetrastyle  portico  ;  and  are  disposed,  the 
one  for  occupancy  by  the  janitor,  the  other  in  two  class- 
rooms. Two  doorways,  in  Egyptian  architecture,  boldly 
break  the  centre  of  the  curtain-wall ;  and  a  double  flight 
of  steps,  flanked  half-way  up  by  Egyptian  projections, 
ascends  to  a  spacious  platform  at  the  level  of  the  main 
building  ;  yet  these  features  are  merely  ornamental,  the 
access  being  by  a  gateway  on  a  higher  level  considerably 
to  the  W  and  through  the  play-ground.  A  massive 
Doric  portico,  with  a  front  range  of  six  columns,  and  a 
rear  range  of  two  columns,  rises  from  the  platform  at 
the  top  of  the  double  flight  of  steps  ;  covers  all  the 
centre  of  the  main  building  ;  and  is  in  pure  Grecian 
style,  copied  from  the  temple  of  Theseus  at  Athens, 
with  columns  upwards  of  20  feet  high.  The  open  cor- 
ridor.?, connecting  the  centi'e  with  the  wings,  commence 
at  ppints  slightly  behind  the  portico  ;  and  are  each 
supported  by  six  Doric  columns.  Each  of  the  wings  is 
a  large  oblong,  nearly  flat-roofed ;  presents  one  of  its 
shorter  elevations  to  the  front ;  and  is  adorned  only 
with  pilaster  and  entablature.  The  central  part  of  the 
main  building  contains  a  splendid  examination  hall, 
75  feet  long,  43  wide,  and  upwards  of  30  high,  a 
library  hall,  the  rector's  apartments,  and  some  smaller 
rooms  ;  and  the  wings  contain  four  class-rooms,  and 
apartments  for  four  masters.  The  entire  edifice,  simply 
as  regards  its  class-rooms,  has  accommodation  for  575 
scholars.  It  was  at  first  a  purely  classical  seminary ; 
but  it  now  furnishes  systematic  instruction  in  all  the  de- 
partments of  a  commercial  as  well  as  a  liberal  education  ; 
has  classes  for  English,  Latin,  Greek,  French,  German, 
history,  geography,  phj'siology,  chemistry,  natural  philo- 
soph)',  zoology,  botany,  mathematics,  drawing,  fencing, 
gymnastics,  and  military  drill ;  spreads  its  entire  curri- 
culum over  the  period  of  six  years  ;  and  is  conducted  by 
a  rector,  15  masters,  and  2  lecturers.  It  formerly  was 
under  the  magistrates  and  town  coimcil ;  but,  in  terms 
of  the  Education  Act  of  1872,  it  came  under  the  city 
school-hoard.  The  number  of  pupils  enrolled  in  1879-80 
was  418  ;  1880-Sl,  423  ;  1881-82,  398.  Previous  to 
1872,  when  the  board's  control  of  the  school  began,  the 
number  of  pupils  had  been  gradually  decreasing.  The 
annual  income  of  the  school,  varying  according  to  fees, 
is  about  £5900 — of  this  £820  arises  from  the  General 
Endowment  Fund,  held  by  the  town  council  for  behoof 
of  the  school ;  the  fees  are  fully  £5000,  and  belong 
to  the  masters.  (See  Ttie  History  of  the  High  School  of 
Edinburgh,  Edinb.  1849.) 

The  Edinburgh  Academy  stands  off  the  N  side  of 
Henderson  Row,  with  rear  on  tabular  ground  over- 
looking the  Water  of  Leith,  570  yards  "WSW  of  Canon- 
mills  ;  originated  in  a  scheme  by  a  number  of  distin- 
guished citizens,  including  Leonard  Homer,  Henry 
Cockburn,  Henry  Mackenzie,  Sir  Walter  Scott,  and  Sir 
Harry  MoncrieS" ;  and  was  erected  in  1824,  after  designs 
by  W.  Burn,  at  a  cost  of  £12,264.  It  is  a  low,  neat,  Doric 
structure,  containing  class-rooms  with  accommodation 
for  1700  pupils,  and  a  common  hall  with  commensurate 
accommodation  ;  presents  an  appearance  less  elegant 
than  massive,  but  is  admirably  adapted  to  its  purpose  ; 
and  occupies  the  centre  of  a  play-ground  of  3  acres,  with 
covered  sheds  for  exercise  in  wet  weather.  It  has  at  some 
distance  a  rricket-fTound  for  the  exclusive  use  of  present 


and  former  pupils ;  belongs  to  a  body  of  subscribers,  under 
royal  charter  from  George  IV.  ;  and  is  superintended  by 
a  board  of  fifteen  directors,  three  of  whom  are  elected  an- 
nually from  the  body  of  subscribers.  It  gives  instruction 
in  all  departments  of  an  English,  classical,  commercial, 
and  liberal  education,  extending  to  a  course  of  seven 
years,  on  terras  which  render  it  less  accessible  than  the 
High  School  to  the  children  of  the  middle  classes  ; 
divides  its  pupils,  in  the  latter  part  of  its  course,  into 
a  classical  school  for  the  learned  professions,  and  a 
modern  school  for  civil,  military,  or  mercantile  pur- 
suits ;  includes  certain  classes  not  belonging  to  its  pro- 
per course,  treated  as  voluntary  ;  and  is  conducted  liy 
a  rector,  4  classical  masters,  French  and  German 
masters,  2  mathematical  masters,  masters  for  English 
and  elocution,  writing,  drawing,  fencing,  fortification, 
and  military  and  civil  engineering.  The  pupils  have 
varied  in  number  from  300  to  500  ;  and  the  income  is 
entirely  derived  from  fees. 

Fettes  College  stands  on  a  gentle  eminence  on  the 
ground  of  Comely  Bank,  in  the  north-western  outskirts 
of  Stockbridge,  and  was  erected  in  1865-70,  after  designs 
by  David  Bryce,  at  a  cost  of  about  £150,000.  It  is  an  ex- 
tensive and  stately  edifice  in  the  semi-Gothic  style  pre- 
valent in  France  and  Scotland  in  the  16th  century, 
with  central  tower ;  figures  conspicuously  and  impos- 
ingly throughout  a  great  extent  of  landscape  ;  and  is 
decorated  with  architectural  features  and  carvings  which 
render  it  as  beautiful  at  hand  as  it  is  picturesque 
in  the  distance.  Fettes  College  originated  in  a  bequest 
of  Sir  William  Fettes  of  Comely  Bank  (b.  1750  ;  d. 
1836),  and  gives  maintenance,  free  education,  and  outfit 
to  selected  orphan  boys,  not  at  an)'  one  time  exceeding 
fifty  in  number.  It  admits  as  day  scholars  or  as  boarders 
large  numbers  of  boys,  at  an  enti-ance  fee  of  £10,  10s., 
an  annual  fee  of  £25,  and  an  annual  boarding-house 
charge  of  £60  ;  is  conducted  on  a  plan  similar  to  that 
of  the  great  public  schools  of  England  ;  gives  a  highly 
liberal  education,  including  classics,  modern  languages, 
English,  mathematics,  science,  singing,  drawing,  gym- 
nastics, and  fencing  ;  is  conducted  by  a  head  master 
and  eleven  assistant  masters  ;  and  has  provision  for 
two  exhibitions  worth  £60  a  year,  each  dating  from 
1875,  two  fellowships  in  Edinburgh  University  worth 
£100  a  year,  and  an  exhibition  to  Oxford  or  Cambridge 
University  worth  £100  a  year,  dating  from  1876.  A 
gymnasium  stands  apart  from  the  College  near  its  E 
wing  ;  is  a  plain  yet  elegant  structure  ;  contains  a  hall 
80  feet  long,  40  feet  wide,  and  22  feet  high  ;  and  is 
adjoined  at  the  E  end  by  a  fives-court.  The  infirmary, 
or  retreat  for  the  sick,  stands  detached  about  40  yards 
E  of  the  g}Tnnasium,  and  is  a  handsome,  unique,  one- 
story  building,  with  a  verandah  along  the  greater  part 
of  its  S  side.  Two  boarding-houses  stand  respectively 
on  the  E  and  the  W  sides  of  the  main  approach,  opened 
the  one  in  1870,  the  other  near  the  end  of  1872;  and 
contain  each  private  apartments  for  a  master,  dor- 
mitories, and  study-rooms  for  thirty  pupils,  and  public 
dining-room  and  sitting-room.  A  third  boarding-house 
of  later  erection  stands  in  similar  position,  and  contains 
accommodation  for  fifty-two  pupils.  A  gate-keeper's 
lodge,  built  in  1871,  is  at  the  end  of  the  W  approach  ; 
and  another  of  later  date  is  at  the  E  approach,  formed 
in  continuation  of  Inverleith  Place. 

The  Edinburgh  Institution,  though  private  property, 
ranks  pretty  much  as  a  com])etitor  ■with  the  High 
School  and  the  Edinburgh  Academy  ;  it  was  organised 
in  1832  to  serve  for  scholars  who  wished  to  devote 
less  time  to  classical  studies  than  was  required  at  the 
two  great  public  schools  and  more  time  to  other 
branches  of  a  liberal  education.  It  was  originally  in 
George  Street,  afterwards  in  Hill  Street,  and  removed 
in  1853  to  Queen  Street,  being  accommodated  there 
in  two  private  houses  slightly  altered,  containing  two 
large  rooms,  a  hall  60  feet  by  30,  and  having  a  total 
capacity  for  more  than  900  scholars.  It  gives  in- 
struction in  classics,  French,  mathematics,  English, 
drawing,  practical  chemistry,  dancing,  fencing,  drill, 
and  gymnastics  :  and  is  conducted  by  twelve  masters. 

509 


EDINBURGH 

Several  other  seminaries  for  a  jointly  classical  and 
general  education,  with  each  a  large  staff  of  masters, 
are  in  various  parts  throughout  the  city  and  subiu'bs, 
such  as  the  Collegiate  Schools,  in  Charlotte  Square  ; 
Craigraount,  the  Ministers'  Daughters  College,  the 
South  Side  High  School,  in  the  Grange  district  ;  and 
Merchiston  School,  located  in  the  Castle  of  Kapier  of 
the  Logarithms,  at  ]\Iorningside  ;  but  rank,  in  all  re- 
spects, as  private  establishments. 

Merchant  Company's  Schools. — George  Watson's  Hospi- 
tal was  originally  an  institution  for  maintaining  and  edu- 
cating boys  between  7  and  15  years  of  age,  being  children 
or  grand-children  of  decayed  merchants  in  Edinburgh. 
It  sprang  from  a  bequest  of  £12,000  by  George  Watson,  a 
native  of  Edinburgh,  first  a  merchant  in  Holland,  after- 
wardsabank-accountant  in  his  native  city,  andwaserected 
in  1738-41  at  a  cost  of  about  £5000,  and  greatly  enlarged 
in  1857.  It  admitted  at  first  only  12  boys  on  the  founda- 
tion, but  eventually  about  80  ;  stood  on  the  N  side  of 
the  Meadows,  in  the  angle  between  Lauriston  and  the 
Jleadow  Walk  ;  and  in  1870,  under  provisional  orders 
obtained  in  connection  with  the  Endowed  Institution's 
Act,  underwent  a  sweeping  change.  The  Hospital  funds 
were  thenceforward  devoted  to  the  maintaining  of  the 
foundationers  in  boarding-houses,  and  the  providing 
of  a  liberal  day-school  education  to  large  numbers  of 
both  boys  and  girls.  The  Hospital  building,  in  1871, 
was  sold  to  the  Royal  Infirmary,  and  what  was  the 
Merchant  Maiden  Hospital  was  purchased  in  the  same 
year,  to  be  used  as  a  school  for  boys.  This  edifice 
stands  on  the  S  side  of  Lauriston,  with  its  front  to 
the  Jleadows,  about  240  yards  WSW  of  the  site  of 
the  original  hospital.  It  was  erected  in  1816,  after  a 
design  by  Burn,  at  a  cost  of  £12,250  ;  measures  ISO  feet 
in  length  of  frontage  ;  has  a  tetrastyle  Ionic  portico, 
modelled  after  the  Ionic  temple  on  the  Uyssus  ;  and  ac- 
quired, in  1872-73,  an  addition  on  the  N  side,  forming 
an  ornamental  rear-front,  and  containing  a  lecture  hall 
83  feet  long,  51  wide,  and  42  high.  The  school  is 
called  a  college  school ;  affords  an  education  qualifying 
boj's  either  for  commercial  life  or  for  entering  the 
Universities  ;  has  an  average  attendance  of  about  1200 
pupils  ;  and  gives,  by  competition,  bursaries  or  presenta- 
tions aggregately  worth  about  £700.  The  foundationers 
are  now  not  more  than  60  in  number  ;  require  to  be  of 
age  between  9  and  14  ;  must  be  elected,  to  at  least  one- 
fourth  of  their  number,  by  competitive  examination  from 
boys  attending  some  one  or  other  of  the  Merchant  Com- 
pany's Schools  ;  are  boarded  with  families  ;  and  receive 
certain  advantages  at  the  completion  of  their  term.  The 
girls'  school  is  in  George  Square  ;  bears  the  name  of 
George  Watson's  College  School  for  Young  Ladies  ;  had 
originally  accommodation  for  600  scholars ;  was  enlarged 
in  1876  to  contain  accommodation  for  200  additional 
scholars  ;  includes  in  its  enlargement  a  new  building 
three  stories  high,  with  ornamental  frontage  in  the  Italian 
style  ;  provides  a  high-class  education,  comprising  Eng- 
lish, French,  German,  Latin,  writing,  arithmetic,  book- 
keeping, mathematics,  physical  science,  drawing,  singing, 
pianoforte,  drill,  calisthenics,  dancing,  needlework,  and 
cookery ;  and  affords,  by  competition,  benefits  estimated 
at  about  £700. 

The  Merchant  Maiden  Hospital  was  founded  in  1695, 
principally  by  contributions  from  the  company  of  mer- 
chants, and  by  a  large  donation  from  Mrs  Mary  Erskine, 
the  widow  of  an  Edinburgh  druggist.  It  became  incor- 
porated in  1707  ;  was  held  originally  in  a  large  tene- 
ment at  the  corner  of  Bristo  Place  and  Lothian  Street, 
on  ground  now  occupied  by  St  Patrick's  Roman  Catholic 
School ;  and  acquired,  in  1816,  the  edifice  noticed  in  our 
preceding  paragraph.  It  served  long  for  the  maintenance 
and  education  of  from  90  to  100  girls,  between  7  and  17 
years  of  age,  daughters  or  grand -daughters  of  merchant 
burgesses  of  Edinburgh  ;  and,  in  1870-71,  under  tlie  same 

Itrovisional  ordur  which  revolutionised  George  Watson's 
lospital,  underwent  vast  changes.  The  edifice,  in  1870, 
was  converted  into  a  day-school  for  young  ladies  on  the 
same  plan  as  George  Watson's  School  in  George  Square  ; 
and,  on  being  sold  to  tie  governors  of  George  Watson's 
510 


EDINBURGH 

Hospital,  was  substituted  by  extensive  premises  at  the  W 
end  of  Queen  Street.  These  are  partly  remodellings  of  pre- 
existent  buildings,  and  partly  superstructures  on  them  ; 
have  an  extensive  frontage,  and  a  lofty  imposing  eleva- 
tion ;  contain  accommodation  for  1200  scholars  ;  and 
furnish  the  same  course  of  instruction  and  the  same 
accompanying  benefits  as  the  young  ladies'  school  in 
George  Square.  The  changing  of  the  classes  from  room 
to  room,  which  is  effected  to  music  at  five  minutes  before 
each  hour,  shows  a  model  of  organisation,  and  forms  a  very 
interesting  sight.  The  foundationers  to  the  Hospital 
were  reduced  under  the  provisional  order  to  the  number 
of  50  ;  must  be  of  age  between  9  and  16  ;  are  boarded 
with  families  ;  and,  at  the  completion  of  their  term,  re- 
ceive each  £9,  6s.  8d. 

Stewart's  Hospital  sprung  from  a  bequest  of  about 
£30,000,  together  with  some  houses,  by  Daniel  Stewart 
of  the  Exchequer,  who  died  in  1814.  It  stands  ad- 
jacent to  the  Queensferry  Road  about  ^  mile  W 
of  Dean  Bridge ;  was  erected  in  1849-53  after  de- 
signs by  David  Rhind ;  and  is  in  a  mixed  style  of  old 
castellated  Scottish  and  the  latest  domestic  Gothic. 
It  measures  about  230  feet  in  maximum  length,  and 
upwards  of  100  feet  in  minimum  breadth,  comprises 
in  its  main  structure  three  sides  of  a  quadrangle,  two 
and  three  stories  high,  and  a  fourth  side  consisting  of  an 
arcaded  screen,  and  projects  considerably  backward  in  its 
central  part.  It  is  surmounted  by  two  main  towers,  with 
turrets,  embattled  parapets,  lanterns,  and  ogee  roofs, 
rising  to  the  height  of  120  feet,  and  by  two  smaller 
towers  and  several  turrets  ;  and  contains,  in  its  central 
part,  a  diuing-hall  and  a  chapel.  It  was  instituted  for 
maintaining  and  educating  boys  of  between  7  and  14 
years  of  age,  the  children  of  poor  industrious  parents  ; 
was  converted,  under  a  provisional  order  of  1870,  into  a 
day-school  ;  gives  similar  education  to  that  in  George 
Watson's  College  School  for  boys,  together  with  tech- 
nical instruction  ;  affords  to  its  pupils  the  same  benefits, 
by  competition,  as  those  afforded  to  the  pupils  of  George 
Watson's  schools  ;  admits  as  foundationers  not  more 
than  40  boys,  who  must  be  of  age  between  9  and  15  ;  and 
requires  that  at  least  one-half  of  them  shall  be  elected 
from  the  day-scholars  of  some  one  or  other  of  the 
Merchant  Company's  schools. 

Gillespie's  Hospital  sprang  from  a  bequest  by  James 
Gillespie  of  Spylaw,  merchant  and  tobacconist  in  Edin. 
burgh.  It  stands  in  a  park  opposite  the  W  end  of  Brunts- 
field  Links,  about  |  mile  S  of  the  W  end  of  Princes 
Street ;  occupies  the  site  of  a  picturesque,  irregular, 
turreted,  ancient,  baronial  pile,  belonging  to  the  Napiers 
of  Merchiston ;  and  was  erected  in  1801-3  after  designs  by 
Burn.  It  consists  mainly  of  an  oblong  structure  in  cas- 
tellated Gothic  style,  with  three  projections  in  front  and 
turrets  at  the  angles,  and  partly  of  a  neighbouring 
edifice  in  the  form  of  a  large  schoolhouse  ;  and  was 
fitted,  in  its  main  structure,  for  the  accommodation  and 
support  of  a  limited  number  of  poor  aged  men  and  women, 
and,  in  its  school  structure,  for  the  education  of  about; 
150  boye  of  between  6  and  12  years  of  age.  It  was,  under 
a  provisional  order  of  1870,  converted  into  primary  day- 
schools  for  boys  and  girls ;  affords  instruction  in  English, 
writing,  arithmetic,  and  singing,  together  with  me- 
chanical di'awing  for  the  boys,  and  sewing  and  knitting 
for  the  girls  ;  allows  its  pupils  a  limited  portion  of 
similar  benefits,  by  competition,  as  those  open  to  the 
pupils  of  the  other  Merchant  Company's  schools  ;  and 
has  an  average  attendance  of  about  1400  boys  and  girls. 
The  aged  foundationers  to  the  hospital  require  to  be 
above  55  years  of  age  ;  and  now,  instead  of  being  main- 
tained in  any  building  belonging  to  the  governors,  are 
allowed  each  a  pension  of  not  less  than  £10,  and  not 
more  than  £25. 

Hospital  Schools. — Heriot's  Hospital  sprang  from  a 
bequest  of  George  Heriot,  a  native  of  Edinburgh,  gold- 
smith, first  to  the  Queen  of  James  VI.,  then  to  that  King 
himself,  and  stands  in  a  park  immediately  WofGreyfriars' 
Churches,  between  Grassmarket  and  Lauriston.  It  was 
founded  in  1G28,  but  not  completed  till  1650,  and  was 
used  by  Cromwell  as  a  military  hospital  for  his  sick  and 


EDINBURGH 


EDINBURGH 


wounded  soldiers  after  the  battle  of  Dunbar,  and  did 
not  become  available  for  its  own  proper  uses  till  1659. 
It  is  commonly  said  to  have  been  erected  after  designs  by 
Inigo  Jones,  but  probably  owes  most  or  all  of  its  features 
to  some  other  architect,  costing  about  £30,000,  which 
woiild  have  absorbed  more  than  the  entire  amount  of 
Heriot's  bequest,  had  not  the  money  for  a  long  time 
been  invested  in  a  manner  singularly  lucrative.  It 
is  a  quadrangular  pile,  with  open  interior  court, 
measuring  162  feet  along  each  side  of  the  exterior,  and 
94  feet  along  each  side  of  the  interior  ;  has  often  been 
called  a  Gothic  structure,  but  is  really  in  a  style  of 
architecture  quite  unique  ;  and  possesses  such  features 
as  render  it  strikingly  picturesque.  The  corner  portions 
are  massive  square  towers,  four  stories  high,  surmounted 
at  the  angles  by  round,  projecting,  oriental  turrets  ;  the 
central  portion  of  the  N  side  contains  the  entrance  arch- 
way, flanked  with  Doric  columns,  and  surmounted  by  a 
square  dome-capped  tower,  rising  to  the  height  of  100 
feet ;  the  central  portion  of  each  of  the  other  sides  has 
a  salient  octagonal  structure  of  medium  character  be- 
tween tower  and  turret,  rising  higher  than  the  summit 
of  the  adjacent  walls  ;  all  the  other  portions  of  the  ele- 
vations have  a  height  of  three  stories  ;  and  the  windows 
are  213  in  number,  and  have  mouldings  and  carvings  in 
such  variety  of  design  that,  -wnth  one  exception,  no  two 
of  them  are  alike.  The  enclosed  court  is  paved  with 
square  stones,  has  an  arcade  6  feet  broad  along  its  N  and 
E  sides,  and  is  pierced  on  its  S  side  with  a  Corinthian 
doorway,  leading  to  a  splendidly  ornate  chapel,  measur- 
ing 61  feet  by  22.  The  armorial  bearings  of  Heriot  and 
some  emblematic  sculptures  surmount  the  entrance  arch- 
way ;  and  a  statue  of  Heriot,  in  the  costume  of  his  time, 
from  the  chisel  of  Robert  ilylne,  occupies  a  finely  carved 
niche  in  the  interior  side.  The  old  and  ordinary  access 
is  from  Grassmarket ;  and  a  modern  entrance  archway, 
with  a  lodge  in  a  style  of  architecture  similar  to  the 
hospital  itself,  is  in  front  of  the  park  at  Lauriston.  A 
terrace,  with  elegant  stone  balustrade,  now  surrounds 
the  main  edifice  ;  and  all  the  grounds  within  the  park 
have  been  beautifully  embellished.  The  hospital  is 
managed  by  the  magistrates,  town  councillors,  and 
parish  ministers  of  Edinburgh  ;  maintains  and  educates 
220  boys — 120  resident,  60  non-resident,  and  40  day 
scholars,  admissible  at  ages  from  7  till  10,  and  requiring, 
except  under  special  permission  of  the  governors,  to  leave 
at  14 ;  and  gives  instruction  in  English,  French,  Latin, 
Greek,  mathematics,  Avriting,  arithmetic,  book-keeping, 
shorthand,  geography,  drawing,  vocal  music,  and  dancing. 
It  allows,  at  the  expiry  of  their  term,  £30  a  year  for  four 
years  to  the  most  talented  who  wish  to  attend  the  Uni- 
versity, and  £20  a  year  to  ten  more  who  attend  the 
University  ;  gives  to  such  as  become  apprentices  for  five 
or  more  years  a  sum  of  £50,  and  to  such  as  become  ap- 
prentices for  fewer  years  a  correspondingly  smaller  al- 
lowance, and  a  bonus  of  £5  at  the  end  of  apprenticeship ; 
and  provides  to  all,  on  leaving  the  hospital,  suits  of 
clothes  and  useful  books.  The  annual  income  was  at 
first  so  limited  as  to  maintain  and  educate  only  18 
hoj's;  it  eventually  became  so  large  as  to  be  able  to 
maintain  and  educate  as  many  as  the  edifice  could 
accommodate  ;  and,  under  authority  of  an  act  of  par- 
liament obtained  in  1836,  the  surplus  still  over  was 
devoted  to  the  erecting  and  maintaining  of  free  ele- 
mentary schools  in  other  parts  of  the  city.  The  num- 
ber of  these  schools  has  gradually  increased,  and  the 
last  report  (April  1882)  gave  their  average  attendance  as 
follows  :— Heriot  Bridge,  288  ;  Cowgatc  Port,  299  ;  High 
School  Yards,  434  ;  Old  Assembly  Close,  284 ;  Borth- 
wick  Close,  273  ;  Brown  Square,  227  ;  Rose  Street,  438  ; 
Broughton,  233  ;  Abbeyhill,  301  ;  Davie  Street,  294  ; 
Stockbridge,  303;  Infant  Schools — Broughton,  90; 
Abbeyhill,  125  ;  Davie  Street,  147  ;  Stockljridge,  110  ; 
Victoria  Street,  131.  Free  education  is  thus  provided 
to  about  5000  children  in  day  schools,  and,  reckoning 
evening  classes,  between  6000  and  7000  altogether, 
of  whom  a  few  from  the  day  schools  are  every  year 
elected  as  foundationers  in  the  Hospital.  The  evening 
classes  afford  instruction   to  young  men  and  women, 


engaged  in  work  during  the  da}',  in  the  various 
branches  of  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  Latin,  French, 
phonography,  drawing,  etc.  AU  the  buildings  are  com- 
modious, and  some  of  them  are  ornamental.  The  one  in 
Cowgate  Port  was  erected  in  1840,  and,  though  standing 
in  one  of  the  most  squalid  parts  of  the  city,  has  piazzas, 
towers,  ornamented  windows,  and  other  architectural  de- 
corations ;  the  one  in  Broughton  Street  was  built  in  1855, 
and  stands  amid  a  tolerably  fair  display  of  New  Town 
architecture,  yet  is  so  ornamented  with  ground  arcades, 
upper  mouldings,  and  crowning  statuary  as  to  be,  in  a 
mere  architectural  respect,  a  decided  accession  to  the 
neighbourhood  ;  and  the  one  in  Abbeyhill  was  built  in 
1874-75,  and  is  both  prominent  and  very  hand.some. 
Another  school,  jointly  juvenile  and  infant,  was  erected 
in  Davie  Street,  in  1875-76,  at  a  cost  of  about  £4000  ; 
occupies  the  site  of  a  plain,  old,  spacious,  Lancasterian 
school ;  consists  of  a  central  block  and  two  receding  side 
wings ;  and  is  so  ornamental  as  to  exhibit  features 
corresponding,  in  many  respects,  with  those  of  the 
Hospital.  Another  was  built  at  Dean  Street,  Stock- 
bridge,  about  the  same  time,  accommodating  about 
600  children,  and  costing  about  £4000.  The  income 
of  the  Trust  for  1881  was  £27,395.  (See  Historical 
and  BcscrijMve  Account  of  George  Heriot's  Hospital, 
including  a  Memoir  of  tJie  Founder,  Edinb.  1827 ;  and 
Steven's  History  of  George  Heriot's  Hospital,  Edinb. 
1859.) 

John  "Watson's  Hospital  sprang  from  a  bequest  in 
1759  by  John  Watson,  a  writer  to  the  signet.  It  was 
intended  by  him  to  be  a  foundling  hospital,  but  was 
turned  by  his  trustees  into  a  hospital  for  maintaining 
and  educating  destitute  children.  It  stands  on  the  left 
side  of  the  Water  of  Leith,  a  short  distance  AVSW  of 
Dean  Bridge ;  was  built  in  1S25-2S  after  designs  by 
William  Burn ;  is  a  large  and  solid  edifice,  with  a 
Doric  portico  ;  maintains  and  educates  about  100  chil- 
dren, between  7  and  14  years  of  age  ;  affords  them  in- 
struction in  English,  Latin,  French,  mathematics,  draw- 
ing, music,  dancing,  and  drill ;  is  managed  by  fifteen 
directors,  comprising  a  treasurer,  the  keeper  and  deputy- 
keeper  of  the  signet,  and  twelve  commissioners  of  the 
writers  to  the  signet ;  and,  though  originating  in  a 
fund  which  amounted  in  1781  to  less  than  £5000,  is 
now,  with  its  grounds  and  buildings,  worth  nearly 
£133,000. 

The  Orphan  Hospital  sprang  from  an  effort  of  private 
benevolence  in  1 7  27,  and  was  countenanced  and  aided,  dur- 
ing their  visits  to  Edinburgh,  by  Howard  and  Whitfield. 
It  became  incorporated  in  1742 ;  occupied  a  hired  house, 
with  about  thirty  children,  in  1733-35  ;  acquired,  in 
1735,  a  new  commodious  structure,  with  a  spire,  in  the 
Nor'  Loch  valley,  immediately  S  of  the  rear  of  the  W 
section  of  Waterloo  Place  ;  and  vacated  that  build- 
ing, on  account  of  the  unhealthiness  of  the  situation, 
in  1833,  for  a  new  edifice  on  the  left  side  of  the  Water 
of  Leitli,  about  |  mile  AVSAV  of  Dean  Bridge.  It  has 
accommodation  there  for  200  children ;  gives  main- 
tenance and  free  education  to  as  many  as  its  funds  can 
support ;  and  admits  boarders  or  presentees  at  a  charge 
of  £16  a  year  for  a  boy  and  £14  for  a  girl.  It  affords  in- 
struction'in  all  the  ordinary  departments  of  an  English 
education,  and  is  upheld  almost  solely  by  subscriptions 
and  donations.  It  suffered  such  depression  of  its  re- 
sources toward  1871  as  not  to  be  able  to  admit  more 
than  90  children,  including  boarders  ;  and  was  then 
threatened  with  removal  to  some  smaller  house  and 
the  sale  of  the  property  ;  but  it  experienced  such 
revival  in  1875  that  the  number  of  its  children  was 
increased  in  that  year  from  84  to  106.  Its  old  build- 
ing in  the  Nor'  Loch  valley  became  an  asylum  for  des- 
titute children,  in  connection  with  a  charity  work- 
house, but  was  eventually  swept  away  by  the  operations 
for  the  North  British  railway  terminus.  The  new 
edifice  was  built  in  1831-33,  after  designs  by  Thomas 
Hamilton,  at  a  cost  of  neariy  £16,000  ;  stands  on  a 
terrace,  reached  by  a  broad  flight  of  steps  ;  comprises 
a  spacious  centre  and  two  moderately  projecting  wings, 
all   two  stories  high  ;  has,  on  the  middle  part  of  tlia 

511 


EDINBURGH 

centre,  a  portico  with  seven  Tuscan  columns  and  a 
plain  pediment,  overlooked  in  the  rear  by  a  small  quad- 
rangular clock-turret ;  and  is  surmounted,  adjacent  to 
the  ^vings,  by  tvro  quadrangular  towers  of  two  stages, 
cut  with  arches  and  terminating  in  turrets.  The  clock 
of  the  Netherbow  Port  was  placed  in  the  spire  of  the  old 
structure,  and  transferred  to  the  clock-turret  of  the  new 
edifice. 

The  Trades'  Maiden  Hospital  was  originally  a  plain 
edifice  in  Argyle  Square,  on  part  of  the  site  of  the  In- 
dustrial Museum,  and  is  now  a  commodious  house,  with 
large  garden,  a  little  S  of  the  Meadows.  The  institution 
was  founded  in  1704,  and  incor]ioratcd  in  1707  ;  sprang 
from  donations  by  JIrs  Mary  Erskine  and  the  incorpo- 
rated trades  of  the  city ;  and  is  managed  by  the  deacons 
of  these  trades,  thirteen  in  all,  and  fourteen  other  gover- 
nors. It  maintains  48  girls  between  7  and  17  years  of 
age,  chiefly  children  or  grand-children  of  craftsmen,  who 
were  educated  formerly  by  a  staff  of  teachers  belonging 
to  the  hospital,  but  now  receive  their  education  at  George 
Watson's  school  for  young  ladies  in  George  Square. 
Each  of  the  pupils,  at  the  completion  of  her  term,  re- 
''.eives  £10  and  a  Bible. 

Donaldson's  Hospital  stands  on  the  N  side  of  the 
Glasgow  Road,  and  on  the  right  side  of  the  Water  of 
Leith,  about  600  yards  WNW  of  Haymarket,  and  sprang 
from  a  bequest  of  about  £210,000  by  James  Donaldson 
of  Broughton  Hall,  proprietor  and  printer  of  the  Edin- 
burgh Advertiser,  who  died  in  1830.  It  occupies  a  gently 
swelling  ground,  which  exhibits  it  fully  and  distinctly  in 
very  distant  views,  and  is  separated  from  the  public  road 
by  successively  a  bold  screen  wall  with  elegant  gates,  a 
spacious  terrace,  a  gi-and  stone  balustrade,  and  a  fine 
lawn.  It  was  erected  in  1842-51,  after  designs  byW. 
H.  Playfair,  at  a  cost  of  about  £100,000  ;  forms  an  open 
quadrangle,  measuring  258  feet  by  207  in  the  exterior, 
and  176  feet  by  164  in  the  contained  court;  and  is  a 
splendid,  palatial,  towered  structure,  in  the  Tudor  style. 
Its  elevation,  except  at  the  towers,  is  about  50  feet  high  ; 
is  divided  into  two  stories,  with  oriel  windows,  and  ■n'ith 
buttresses  between  every  pair  ;  and  is  surmounted  by  an 
embrasured  parapet.  Four  octagonal  towers,  of  five 
stories,  stand  at  the  centre  of  the  main  front,  flanking 
the  grand  entrance,  and  rise  to  a  height  of  120  feet; 
four  square  towers,  of  four  stories,  stand  at  each  of  the 
corners,  and  rise  to  a  height  intermediate  between  that 
of  the  central  towers  and  the  smaller  finials  ;  and  all 
the  twenty  towers  have  ogee  roofs,  and  terminate  in 
vanes.  The  number  of  window-lights  is  600.  The 
whole  exterior,  with  perforated  scroll  ornament  sur- 
mounting its  oriels,  ornamental  lace-work,  and  armorial 
bearings  on  its  corner  towers,  flowers  and  cherub-heads 
on  the  tympanums  of  its  buttresses,  and  shields  with 
thistles,  shamrocks,  roses,  and  fleur-de-lis,  is  exceed- 
ingly elegant.     The  contained  court  is  correspondingly 


EDINBURGH 

imposing  ;  shows  impressively  the  symmetrical  propor- 
tions of  the  masses  and  apertures,  the  picturesque  group- 
ings of  the  towers  and  turrets,  and  the  continuous  lines 
of  the  mouldings  and  string-courses  ;  and  has  a  richly 
ornamented  central  pedestal,  rising  like  a  grand  bouquet 
from  the  substantial  pavements.  The  interior  also  is  in 
good  keeping  with  the  exterior.  The  corridors  have  an 
aggregate  length  of  about  3500  feet ;  the  principal  stair- 
cases are  about  20  feet  square,  and  from  40  to  50  feet 
high  ;  the  apartments  average  17  feet  in  height,  and  are 
164  in  number  ;  the  public  rooms  average  about  65  feet 
in  length,  and  25  in  breadth,  and  have  panelled,  cor- 
belled, bossed  ceilings,  painted  in  imitation  of  oak  ;  the 
corridors,  staircases,  and  public  rooms  have  a  wainscot 
lining  to  the  aggregate  length  of  more  than  4  miles ; 
and  the  chapel  is  splendidly  decorated.  The  hospital 
was  erected  and  endowed  for  maintaining  and  educat- 
ing poor  boys  and  girls,  after  the  plan  of  the  Orphan 
Hospital  and  John  Watson's  Hospital ;  is  managed  by 
a  mixed  body  of  public  functionaries  and  elected  gentle- 
men, amounting  altogether  to  twenty-seven  ;  admits  no 
children  whose  parents  are  able  to  maintain  them  ;  gives 
preference  to  children  of  the  names  of  Donaldson  and 
Marshall ;  requires  them  to  be  between  6  and  9  years  of 
age  at  admission,  and  dismisses  them  at  the  age  of  14  ; 
gives  them  such  a  plain  useful  English  education  as  fits 
the  boys  for  trades  and  the  girls  for  domestic  service  ; 
and  has  accommodation  for  150  boys  and  150  girls,  of 
whom  a  number  are  deaf  and  dumb. 

Board  Schools. — In  1873  the  city  School-Board  re- 
ported that  there  were  then  within  the  city  169  primary 
schools,  having  accommodation  for  45,492  scholars; 
that  7  of  these,  for  1218  scholars,  were  to  be  discon- 
tinued ;  and  that  room  for  upwards  of  13,800  scholars  in 
higher-class  schools  was  unappropriated.  They  computed 
that  primary  school  accommodation  for  4160  scholars 
was  required,  and  resolved  to  erect  7  new  schools  for 
4200  scholars,  borrowing  for  this  purpose  from  the 
Public  Works  Department  £70,000,  to  be  repaid  in 
thirty  annual  instalments.  In  terms  of  the  Education 
Act  of  1872,  they  so  acquired  schools,  or  provided  tem- 
porary accommodation,  as  to  have  in  1874  17  day 
schools  and  13  evening  schools  in  operation  ;  but  found 
in  1875  that  further  room  for  upwards  of  1000  scholars 
was  required,  and  then  opened  2  additional  schools, 
purchased  and  adapted  large  tenements  for  a  school 
in  Canongate,  and  resolved  to  erect  another  in  Dairy 
district.  Since  then  several  of  the  lesser  and  temporary 
schools  have  been  discontinued,  and  the  work  of  the 
Board  is  now  carried  on  in  13  schools,  independently  of 
the  High  School,  transferred  to  the  Board  by  the  town 
council.  The  following  table  gives  the  costs  of  these 
13  schools,  together  with  their  actual  measurements, 
with  small  side-rooms  in  some,  and  a  district  library  in 
another : — 


Name  of  ScnooL. 

Cost  of  Site, 
including 
Expenses. 

Cost  of  Erection, 

including 

Furnishings. 

Total  Cost. 

Accom- 
modation 
at  8  Square 
Feet  per 
Scholar. 

Cost  per 
Scholar  ex- 
clusive of 
Site. 

Date  of  Opening. 

*Dean 

*New  Street 

West  Fountainbridge  . . 
*Leith  Walk 

£1,046  14    0 
3,102    2  10 
3,4i?2  18    1 
3,196  16    7 
3,254     4     4 
2,535  14     G 
8,739  16    2 

71    7    1 

5,348  11     7 

66     1     i\ 

65  16     o' 

3,182    3     0 

2,503     3     6 

£5,C05     3  10 
2,987  13    4 

10,956  17    0 

14,466  11  10 
9,712    7    2 
9,051  12    3 

10,518    2    3 

10,223  11    7 

9,989    8    0 
9,845    4    0§ 
7,263  16    9 
7,334  12    5 
7,426     7     1 

£6,651  17  10 
6,089  16    2 
14,439  15     1 
17,663    8    5 
12,966  11    6 
11,587    6    9 
19,257  18    5 

10,294  18    8 

15,3.37  19    7 
9,911    5    5 
7,319  12    9 

10,516  15     5 
9,929  10    7 

457 
792 
935 

1,041 
633 
617 
857 

1,155 

1,023 

1,132 

948 

997 

829 

£12    5    3* 
3  15    b\ 

11  14    4j 

13  17  11 
15    6  lOi 

14  13     4:{ 

12  5     5i 

8  17    Oi 

9  15    3J 
8  13  Hi 
7  13    2} 

7  7    1} 

8  19    li 

Sept.     1,  1875. 

May          1876. 

June     1,  1876. 

Nov.     3,  1876. 

Dec.    23,  1876. 

Jan.      8,  1877. 

Sept.  27,  1877. 
(  Feb.  18,  1878. 
1  Sept.     6.  1880. 

Jan.      6,  1879. 

Jan.      5,  1880. 

Sept.     6,  ISSO. 

Sept.    6,  1880. 

June  24,  1881. 

Oct.      1,  1877. 

*Causewavside 

*Stockbridge    

*nrislo   

'L>alry  (including  addi-  > 

tiiins)    1 

North  Canongate 

•Canonmills 

Lothian  Road 

•Abbeyliill    

New   Writing    Class-) 
room,  II.  11.  School  ) 

£36,585    9    0^ 

£115,381     7     6J 
1,735    0    0 

£151,966  16    7 
1,735    0    0 

11,416 

£10    2    li 

£36,585    9    OA 

£117,116     7     CJ 

£153,701  16    7 

512 


EDINBURGH 

The  schools  marked  *  have  janitors'  houses  attached, 
the  costs  of  which  are  included  in  those  of  the  schools. 
The  sums  thus  expended  have  been  obtained  by  building 
grants  from  the  Education  Department  to  the  amount 
of  £5587,  10s.  7d.,  and  loans  from  Public  Works  Board 
of  £147,041,  to  this  being  added  £1073,  6s.  transferred 
from  school  fund,  derived  from  the  rates,  to  defray  the 
cost  of  extra  furnishings,  making  the  gross  total  of 
£153,701,  16s.  7d. 

These  schools  give  accommodation  for  25,960  children, 
leaving  a  deficiency  of  1561  places  ;  but  this  deficiency 
the  Board  are  meeting  (April  1882)  by  the  erection  of 
two  other  schools  at  Warrender  Park  and  North  Mer- 
chiston,  with  accommodation  for  880  and  969  children 
respectively.  The  site  of  "Warrender  Park  school  ex- 
tends to  1912  square  yards,  and  was  purchased  for  £1865  ; 
the  site  of  North  Merchiston  school  extends  to  1940 
square  yards,  and  is  feued  for  £85  per  annum.  The 
cost,  exclusive  of  sites,  \vill  not  much  exceed  £18,000. 
All  the  details  of  school  management,  organisation,  and 
instruction  are  regulated  by  the  j'early  code  issued  by 
the  Scotch  Education  Department ;  and  religious  in- 
struction is  given  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to 
an  hour  each  morning,  very  few  having  taken  advantage 
of  the  conscience  clause  upon  this  point.  The  annual 
results  of  examination  for  the  three  years  undernoted 
are  as  follow  : — 


*-    ^ 

o  '•" 

oi 

13 

Total 

Rate  of 
Grant 

per 
Scholar. 

Grant  for 

C3 

="  -  E 

Grant 

O    CJ  ^ 

Specific 

> 

it  >i 

o  S  ? 

earned. 

h^Si 

Subjects. 

"" 

-"- 

&     s.   d. 

s.    d. 

£     s.   d. 

1S79 

5033 

91 

6303     8    0 

16    7i 

592 

117    4    0 

ISSO 

G095 

&S-4 

7353    8    2 

16    3* 

763 

150  16    0 

ISSl 

6516 

90-39 

7810    8    8 

16    5 

1202 

206  11  10 

In  each  of  these  j'ears  temporary  schools  were  closed 
and  new  ones  opened  in  their  places,  and  this  affects  the 
total  amount  received  for  grants,  as  no  grant  is  paid  on 
account  of  schools  which  are  closed  during  the  currency 
of  a  school  year.  "When  this  is  allowed  for,  the  average 
grant  earned  per  scholar  is  as  follows  :  for  1879,  16s. 
9id.  ;  for  1880,  16s.  9d.  ;  and  for  1881,  16s.  ll^d.  The 
follo^\ing  table  shows  the  cost  of  instruction,  sources 
of  income,  and  total  cost  of  schools  : — 


rf      "S-2      5  i    . 

OC^  m 

1      a§ 

«5; 

i     =s    ipS 

1^1 

S  -  'S 

o 

0. 

>;      Z-3,  -ri.C'.^ 

•^  *"  -^ 

>  3 

O^o 

1  "III 

"o  2. 

^ 

-d 

ow 

r-i  %4 

^ 

1879      14      £4046 

£6303 

£6549 

£16,904    7578 

£2  4    7i 

1880     16        4609 

7358 

6872 

18,811    9024 

2  19 

1881  '  14        4595 

7810 

8442 

20,848    9504 

2  3  lOi 

The  total  cost  includes  charges  for  repairs,  rates, 
taxes,  and  insurance,  and  also  a  sum  of  £540  of  annual 
feu-duty,  properly  chargeable  to  sites.  The  repayment 
of  loans  for  building  is  not  included.  The  heavy  item 
in  the  cost  of  the  schools  is  the  salaries  of  the  staffs. 
AVith  the  exception  of  Dean  school,  where  the  salary 
of  the  head-master  is  £200,  and  that  of  the  head-mis- 
tress £100,  all  the  head-masters  have  £300,  with  £10 
additional  for  every  100  children  over  600,  until  the 
salary  attains  £350 ;  the  salaries  of  first  assistants, 
£120,  rising  to  £175  ;  head-mistresses,  £120,  rising  to 
£150  ;  male  assistants,  £80  to  £100  ;  female  assistants 
and  sewing  mistresses,  £60  to  £80  ;  and  singing  masters 
£40  for  one  hour  each  day.  Over  and  above  these 
salaries,  15  per  cent,  additional  payment  is  given  to 
those  schools  which  are  jilaced  in  the  first  class  by  the 
management  committee,  10  per  cent,  to  those  in  the 
second  class,  and  5  per  cent,  to  those  in  the  third  class. 
The  fees  charged  in  all  the  elementary  schools  arc  at 
33 


EDINBURGH 

the  rate  of  2d.  to  5d.  per  week,  except  in  New  Street 
school,  attended  by  the  poorest  class,  where  the  fee, 
including  books,  etc.,  is  only  Id.  to  3d.  per  week. 
Evening  schools  have  been  in  operation  for  nine  years 
during  the  winter  months,  and  are  largely  attended  by 
young  men  and  women.  In  1880-81  there  were  eight 
classes  open  in  the  evening,  with  an  average  attendance 
of  301.  The  cost  of  teaching  in  these  were — ad- 
vanced classes,  £1,  6s.  6id.  ;  elementary,  £1,  53.  5d.  ; 
the  teachers  receiving  £20  for  salary,  with  a  little 
more  from  grants.  During  three  years  the  Board 
prosecuted  32  defaulting  parents  under  the  Act  ot 
1878.  Each  prosecution  cost  the  Board  from  18s.  to 
18s.  6d.,  the  expense  altogether  being  thus  over  £29. 
Fines  to  the  amount  of  £9  were  imposed,  but  not  re- 
covered. Under  the  new  and  reWsed  Summary  Pro- 
cedure Act,  however,  the  sheriff  can  in  imposing  a  fine 
give  an  alternative  of  imprisonment  in  proportion  to 
the  amount  of  fine  imposed,  and  this  it  is  believed  ^vill 
produce  good  results.  The  architectural  details  of  the 
Board  schools  are  generally  in  what  is  called  the  Scot- 
tish Flemish  style,  with  muUioned  windows  and  crow- 
stepped  gables,  but  vary  in  accordance  with  site  and 
locality,  with  the  exception  of  the  one  at  Dairy  Road, 
which  is  in  a  pavilion  style  of  only  one  story  in  height. 

Miscellaneous  Public  Schools  and  Institutions. — The 
Church  of  Scotland  Normal  School  stands  on  Johnston 
Terrace,  about  160  yards  "WSW  of  the  head  of  Lawn- 
market,  and  was  erected  in  1845  at  a  cost  of  about  £8500. 
It  is  a  large  handsome  edifice,  with  an  attached  play- 
ground ;  contains  class-rooms  and  other  appliances  for  a 
large  attendance  of  pupils  ;  affords  a  wide  range  of  train- 
ing for  schoolmasters  and  schoolmistresses  ;  is  conducted 
by  a  rector,  seven  masters,  and  a  matron  ;  and  includes 
a  practising  school,  with  head-master  and  seven  assis- 
tants in  the  principal  department,  a  mistress  and  two 
assistants  in  a  juvenile  department,  and  a  mistress  and 
an  assistant  in  an  infant  department.  Premises  in  con- 
nection with  this  institution  for  the  training  of  the  male 
teachers  exclusively  were  recently  erected  in  Chambers 
Street,  and  opened  in  1879.  The  building  is  a  hand- 
some and  substantial  one,  and  contains,  besides  lecture- 
rooms,  the  offices  of  the  board  of  general  management. 
A  boarding-house  in  connection  -n-ith  the  institution 
is  at  No.  12  Picardy  Place.  The  Free  Church  Normal 
School,  noticed  in  the  section  on  Canongate,  is  held 
in  Moray  House  ;  has  similar  objects  and  similar  de- 
partments to  those  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  Normal 
School ;  is  conducted  by  a  rector  and  a  master  in  classics, 
masters  in  French  and  German,  a  lecturer  in  mathe- 
matics and  physical  science,  a  lecturer  in  history  and 
English  literature,  teachers  in  drawing  and  in  music, 
and  five  masters,  a  lady  superintendent,  two  governesses, 
and  an  infants'  mistress  in  the  practising  school ;  and 
has  in  connection  with  it,  at  No.  8  St  John  Street,  a 
boarding-house  for  female  students  and  pupils.  The 
Episcopalian  Training  Institution  for  schoolmasters  and 
schoolmistresses  was  formerly  held  in  Minto  House, 
Argyle  Square,  but,  being  taken  down  in  1871  for  the 
forming  of  Chambers  Street,  is  now  held  in  Dairy 
House,  Orwell  Place. 

The  Royal  Blind  Asylum,  or  asylum  for  blind  men  and 
blind  women,  dates  from  1793.  It  originated  with  Dr 
Blacklock,  David  Miller,  the  Rev.  Dr  Johnston,  and  the 
celebrated  Wilberforce,  and  first  occupied  a  house  in 
Shakepeare  Square,  whence  it  was  removed  in  1806  to 
No.  58  Nicolson  Street,  where  the  large  wareliouse  still 
is  for  the  sale  of  the  productions  of  the  blind  inmates. 
It  included  another  house  at  No.  38,  obtained  in  1822 
for  females,  now  used  for  the  males  who  do  not  reside 
with  friends  ;  the  females  and  the  blind  cliildren  being 
provided  in  1876  with  a  spacious  new  building  at  "West 
Craigmillar.  The  institution  is  managed  by  a  body  of 
seventeen  directors  ;  instructs  and  employs  the  males  in 
making  mattresses,  brushes,  baskets,  mats,  and  other 
objects,  and  in  weaving  sackcloth,  matting,  and  rag- 
carpets, — the  females  in  knitting  stockings,  sewing 
covers  for  mattresses  and  feather  beds,  and  in  other  em- 
ployments: and  had,  as  inmates,  in  1870, 114  males  and 

513 


EDINBURGH 

34  females ;  in  1875, 146  males  and  26  females.  Both  of 
its  buildings  in  Nicolson  Street  were  originally  private 
houses ;  both  were  purchased  for  its  own  uses,  and  fitted 
up  with  every  requisite  accommodation  and  appliance  ; 
and  that  at  No.  58  was  altered  and  adorned,  about  1860, 
at  a  cost  of  about  £3500.  A  handsome  new  facade,  with 
stone-faced  dormer  windows,  and  a  neat  cornice  and 
balustrade,  was  then  erected  ;  and  is  pierced  with  a  large 
central  door-way,  flanked  by  two  spacious  windows,  and 
surmounted  by  a  bust  of  the  Rev.  Dr  Johnston.  The 
new  building  at  West  Craigmillar  stands  on  a  rising- 
gi'ound  S  of  Powburn,  and  is  approached  from  Ncwing- 
ton  Road,  nearly  opposite  Echobank  cemetery.  It  was 
erected  in  1874-76  at  a  cost  of  £21,000;  is  in  light 
French  style,  with  a  central  handsome  clock-tower  80 
feet  high,  surmounted  by  dome  and  lantern  ;  has  a  fron- 
tage 160  feet  long,  and  chiefly  three  stories  high  ;  and 
contains  a  circular  reception  hall  111  feet  in  diameter,  a 
dining  hall  and  chapel  115  feet  long  and  28  wide,  a  work- 
room 72  feet  long  and  20  wide,  and  accommodation  for 
about  200  inmates.  The  school  for  blind  children,  prior 
to  its  amalgamation  with  the  Royal  Blind  Asylum,  was  in 
a  commodious  building,  originally  a  private  house,  at 
No.  2  Gayfield  Square  ;  was  managed  by  a  body  of  four- 
teen directors  ;  and  admitted  boys  and  girls  from  6  to  14 
years  of  age.  The  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb 
dates  from  1810  ;  stood  originally  in  Chessels  Court,  in 
Canongate  ;  and  acquired,  in  1826,  an  edifice  off"  the  N 
side  of  Henderson  Row,  in  the  western  vicinity  of  the 
Edinburgh  Academy.  It  is  managed  by  a  body  of  fourteen 
directors,  and  conducted  by  a  principal,  two  assistant 
teachers,  a  matron,  a  female  teacher-,  and  a  drawing 
master ;  and  early  acquired  so  much  celebrity,  by  the 
excellence  and  success  of  its  system  of  training,  as  to  be 
made  a  model  for  similar  institutions  in  other  cities. 
The  building  was  erected,  by  subscription,  at  a  cost  of 
£7000  ;  is  large,  commodious,  and  of  not  unpleasing  ap- 
pearance ;  and  is  surrounded  with  pleasant  garden- 
grounds. 

The  Roman  Catholics  have  the  following  schools  : — 
St  Patrick's  and  St  Ann's  in  Cowgate,  St  Mary's  in 
Lothian  Street,  St  John's  in  York  Lane,  and  another 
conducted  by  the  Christian  Brothers  at  Easter  Road. 

St  George's  day-school  institution,  founded  by  the 
late  Rev.  Dr  Andrew  Thomson,  at  No.  10  Young  Street, 
All  Saints  in  Glen  Street,  St  Columba's  in  Johnston 
Terrace,  Dr  Bell's  schools  in  Niddry  Street  and  Green- 
side,  the  Original  Industrial  school  in  Ramsay  Lane,  the 
United  Industrial  school  in  Blackfriars  Street,  the  Carse 
Industrial  school  off"  Greenside,  have  buildings  remark- 
able either  for  commodiousness,  elegance,  or  both. 

Theological  Colleges. — The  Free  Church  College,  or 
New  College,  was  instituted  in  1843,  and  originally 
occupied  halls  modified  out  of  private  houses  on  the  S 
side  of  George  Street.  It  was  removed  in  1850  to  a 
new,  spacious,  imposing  edifice  of  its  own,  in  the 
Pointed  style  of  the  16th  century,  at  the  head  of  the 
Mound,  and  is  conducted  by  a  principal  and  six  professors, 
occupying  the  chairs  respectively  of  divinity,  church 
history,  Hebrew  and  Oriental  languages,  exegetical 
theology,  evangelistic  theology,  and  natural  science  ; 
there  being  also  a  lecturer  on  elocution.  Its  winter 
session  extends  from  the  first  Wednesday  of  November 
till  an  early  day  in  April.  The  edifice  was  built  in 
1846-50,  after  designs  by  W.  H.  Playfair,  at  a  cost  of 
about  £30,000,  and  is  conjoined  on  the  E  with  the  Free 
High  Church.  It  comprises  a  hollow  quadrangle,  with 
interior  court  measuring  85  feet  by  56  ;  presents  its 
main  frontage  to  the  N,  overlooking  the  Mound,  and  ex- 
tending 165  feet  from  E  to  W  ;  measures  177  feet  along 
the  flanks  ;  is  divided  into  two  stories,  crowned  by  a 
range  of  dormer  windows ;  has  a  groined  archway 
entrance  surmounted  by  two  large  oriel  windows,  and 
flanked  by  two  square  towers,  rising  to  the  height  of 
121  feet,  buttressed  at  the  corners  from  base  to  summit, 
and  terminating  each  in  four  heavy  crocheted  j)in- 
nacles  ;  shows,  at  the  NE  corner,  belonging  to  the  Piigh 
Church,  a  similar  tower  96  feet  high  ;  is  adorned  on  the 
S  of  its  interior  court  with  two  octagonal  towers  sui'- 
514 


EDINBURGH 

mounted  by  ogee  roofs  and  gilt  vanes ;  contains  a  library 
hall,  a  senate  hall,  nine  class-rooms,  and  a  number  of 
small  apartments  ;  and  has  in  the  library  hall  a  statue 
of  Dr  Chalmers  by  Steell.  The  library,  which  was 
begun  only  in  1843,  now  contains  between  30,000  and 
40,000  volumes,  comprising  many  -works  in  patristic 
theology,  ecclesiastical  history,  and  systematic  theology, 
while  other  branches  of  literature  are  comparatively 
well  represented. 

The  United  Presbyterian  Theological  Hall  was  formerly 
in  Queen  Street,  between  St  David  Street  and  Hanover 
Street,  forming  a  conjunct  building  with  the  United  Pres- 
byterian Synod  Hall,  and  had  till  1876  four  professors 
and  a  teacher  of  elocution.  In  that  year  a  change  of 
session  was  made  from  two  months  in  autumn  to  five 
months  in  winter,  and  the  curriculum  was  shortened  from 
five  j'cars  to  three.  The  staff"  now  comj)rises  a  principal 
and  professors  of  New  Testament  literature  and^exegesis, 
Old  Testament  literature  and  exegesis,  systematic 
theology  and  apologetics,  churcli  history,  and  practical 
training,  etc.,  as  well  as  a  teacher  of  elocution.  The 
building  was  originally  a  private  house,  and  was 
exteriorly  fitted  with  a  plain  large  porch,  and  interiorly 
altered  to  suit  the  uses  of  the  Theological  Hall,  and  to 
give  ingress  to  the  Synod  Hall  ;  and  contained  class- 
rooms, library-rooms,  and  other  apartments.  The  S3'nod 
Hall,  in  the  rear  of  the  Theological  Hall,  was  erected 
in  1847  ;  handsomely  and  suitably  fitted  up  for  the 
business  of  the  Synod,  containing  accommodation  for 
1100  persons  ;  and  is  still  used  on  hire  for  the  lectures 
of  the  Edinburgh  Philosophical  Institution,  as  well  as 
for  occasional  public  meetings — religious,  educational, 
philanthropic,  and  miscellaneous.  The  United  Presby- 
terian Theological  and  Sjaiod  Halls  now  occupy  a  large 
block  of  buildings  on  Castle  Terrace,  between  Cromwell 
Street  and  Cambridge  Street,  with  fine  open  view  to 
Princes  Street.  These  premises  were  originally  de- 
signed for  the  West  End  theatre,  opened  when  in- 
complete as  to  exterior  condition  at  the  close  of  1875, 
and  intended  to  include  an  aquarium  and  winter  garden 
on  its  W  side  and  a  circus  or  music  hall  on  the  S,  esti- 
mated to  cost  altogether  about  £65,000.  Built  in  a 
style  resembling  Italian,  worked  upon  geometric  lines, 
it  presents  its  principal  elevation  to  Castle  Terrace, 
with  considerable  ornamentation,  and  was  designed 
interiorly  with  much  elegance,  and  had  sittings  for 
3000.  Purchased  on  the  failure  of  the  company 
by  the  United  Presbyterian  Church  in  1877,  it  was 
subjected  to  considerable  alteration  both  as  to  its 
interior  and  exterior,  and  now  contains  one  of  the 
largest  halls  in  the  city,  designed  jn-imarily  for  the 
annual  meetings  of  the  Synod,  and  has  lecture-room 
for  the  professors,  library,  and  offices  for  the  various 
scci-etaries  and  other  officials  of  the  Church. — The 
Theological  College  of  the  Episcopal  Church  in  Scotland 
is  at  9  Rosebery  Crescent,  and  has  lecturers  on  theology, 
ecclesiastical  history,  apologetics,  and  pastoral  theology. 

The  Protestant  Institute  of  Scotland  was  organised  in 
1850,  and  originated  in  an  effort  to  stem  the  increase  of 
Romanism.  It  has  its  premises  on  the  W  side  of  George 
IV.  Bridge,  immediately  S  of  the  central  or  open 
arches,  and  maintains  classes,  conducted  by  a  pro- 
fessor, for  training  students  of  all  Protestant  denomi- 
nations in  the  polemics  of  the  Romish  controversy. 
Its  principal  building  was  erected  in  1862,  partly  to 
afford  requisite  accommodation  for  its  business,  jjartly 
to  celebrate  the  tercentenary  of  the  Reformation  ;  pre- 
sents a  neat  front  to  George  IV.  Bridge  ;  and  contains  a 
spacious  hall  and  other  ajjartments. 

JEcclesiastical  Balls. — Victoria  Hall,  the  meeting- 
place  of  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Church  of  Scot- 
land, and  used  also  as  the  parochial  church  of  Tolbooth 
parish,  stands  at  the  forking  of  Lawnmarkct  into  Castle 
Hill  and  Johnston  Terrace,  and  occujjies  a  site  only  a  few 
feet  lower  than  the  Castle  esplanade,  and  on  a  line  with 
the  head  of  Grassmarket  and  the  W  side  of  the  Mound. 
Tliis  hall  was  erected  in  1842-44,  after  designs  by 
(Ullesjiie  Graham,  at  a  cost  of  about  £16,000,  and  is  in 
the  decorated  Gothic  style.     It  has  an  oblong  form,  141 


EDINBURGH 

feet  in  length,  extending  E  and  W  ;  presents  to  the  E  a 
main  front,  witli  a  massive  tower  pierced  through  the 
basement  with  the  grand  entrance,  crowned  on  the  walls 
wath  a  circle  of  turret  pinnacles,  and  surmounted  by 
an  elegant  octagonal  spire  rising  to  the  height  of  241 
feet  from  the  ground  ;  shows,  on  each  flank,  live  hand- 
some windows  and  a  corresponding  number  of  buttresses 
and  pinnacles  ;  and  is  commodiously  and  neatly  fitted, 
in  all  respects,  to  suit  the  business  of  the  Assembly. 
The  lower  part  of  it  is  so  closely  adjoined  by  neighbour- 
ing buildings  and  by  a  curve  in  Lawnmarket  as  to  be 
visible  only  at  near  distances  ;  but  the  spire,  so  adorned 
as  to  look  in  the  distance  almost  like  a  sheaf  of  pinnacles, 
soars  above  all  the  surrounding  houses,  and  is  fully 
seen,  as  a  conspicuous  feature  of  the  city,  from  several 
parts  of  it  and  of  the  surrounding  country.  Imme- 
diately prior  to  the  opening  of  Victoria  Hall,  the 
Assembly  met  in  St  Andrew's  parish  church ;  the 
meeting-place  for  long  previous  periods  being  the  S  aisle 
of  St  Giles'  Church,  and  for  a  time  between  the  Tron 
Church.  The  parish  church  of  Tolbooth  was  formerly 
the  western  part  of  St  Giles'. 

The  Free  Church  Assembly  met,  from  1843  till  1858, 
in  a  large,  plain,  low-roofed  hall,  carved  out  of  an 
extensive  suite  of  buildings  in  the  stj'le  of  a  Moorish 
fortress,  situated  at  Tanfield,  on  the  Water  of  Leith, 
opposite  Canonmills,  and  erected  in  1825  for  an  oil  gas- 
work,  which  proved  unsuccessful.  This  place  was  the 
scene,  in  1835,  of  a  great  banquet  to  Daniel  O'Connel, 
and  was  used  in  1847  for  the  amalgamation  of  the 
United  Secession  and  the  Relief  synods  into  the  United 
Presbyterian  synod.  The  present  Assembly  Hall  stands 
on  the  N  side  of  Castle  Hill,  opposite  Victoria  Hall, 
and  immediately  S  of  the  Free  Church  College,  on 
the  site  of  the  palace  of  Mary  of  Guise.  It  was 
erected  in  1858-59,  after  designs  by  David  Bryce,  at  a 
cost  of  about  £7000,  and  is  in  a  style  to  harmonise  with 
that  of  the  Free  Church  College.  It  measures  nearly  100 
feet  each  way ;  presents  to  Castle  Hill  a  screen  wall, 
pierced  by  two  entrances,  and  marked  with  panellings 
and  a  bold  stream  course  ;  consists  chiefly  of  a  hall  with 
accommodation  for  about  1700  persons,  and  a  s}»acious 
corridor  on  the  N  side  with  pointed  arches  and  deep 
recesses  ;  and  has  its  main  entrance,  from  the  college 
quadrangle  up  flights  of  stairs,  through  that  corridor. 
"The  Free  Church  offices  are  in  a  spacious  edifice,  erected 
in  1859-61,  after  designs  by  Mr  Cousin,  in  a  florid  variety 
of  the  Scottish  Baronial  style,  with  frontage  to  the 
Mound,  and  immediately  E  of  t)ie  Free  Church  College. 

Established  Churches. — St  Giles'  Church  stands  at 
the  junction  of  High  Street,  LawTimarket,  Parliament 
Square,  and  County  Square.  The  original  church  on 
the  site  was  built  before  the  year  854  ;  but  by  whom,  in 
what  circumstances,  or  why  called  St  Giles',  is  not 
known.  A  new  church,  in  lieu  of  the  original  one,  was 
built  in  the  early  part  of  the  1 2th  century  by  David  I.  ; 
stood  on  the  site  of  the  north-western  portion  of  the 
present  pile ;  was  extended,  at  different  periods,  by 
additions  of  aisles,  chapels,  transepts,  and  a  choir ;  but 
suffered  demolition,  in  1385,  by  an  invading  English 
army  under  Richard  II.  A  reconstruction  of  this 
church,  with  seemingly  much  of  the  old  masonry, 
but  consisting  mainly  of  entirely  new  work,  was  com- 
menced in  1387,  and  went  forward,  in  successive  por- 
tions, at  successive  jicriods,  all  in  the  Early  Gothic  style 
which  then  prevailed.  It  acquired,  about  1454,  a  large 
southern  aisle,  with  richly  groined  ceiling,  originally 
called  the  Preston,  but  at  length  the  Assembly  aisle, 
because  used  after  the  Reformation  as  the  meeting- 
place  of  the  General  Assembly.  It  underwent,  in 
1462,  enlargement  of  its  choir  in  a  style  of  decorated 
Gothic,  with  elevation  of  the  central  part  into  a  cleres- 
tory ;  was  constituted  by  James  III.,  in  1466,  a  col- 
legiate church,  with  a  ])rovost,  a  dean,  16  prebend- 
aries, a  master  of  the  choir,  4  choristers,  a  sacristan, 
and  a  beadle,  together  with  a  number  of  chaplains 
in  attendance  upon  the  36  altars  in  the  church,  and 
became  crowded  with  monuments,  armorial  bearings, 
and  costly  private  lofts  or  galleries.     It  was  partitioned, 


EDINBURGH 

after  the  Reformation,  into  four  churches  and  some 
lesser  apartments,  and  ]iut  into  re]iair  by  tlie  proceeds 
of  the  sale  of  the  paraphernalia  belonging  to  its  altars  and 
connected  with  Romish  ceremonies  ;  Avas,  from  1633  till 
1638,  the  cathedral  of  tlie  brief  bishopric  of  Edinburgh  ; 
witnessed,  in  July  1637,  the  well-known  cutty-stool 
exploit  of  Jenny  Geddes,  when  the  dean  attempted  to 
introduce  the  Service  Book,  leading  to  events  which 
annulled  Episcopacy  and  restored  Presbyterianism  ;  and 
witnessed  also,  in  1643,  the  swearing  and  subscribing  of 
the  Solemn  League  and  Covenant  by  the  representatives 
of  the  public  bodies  of  Scotland  ;  but  suffered  much  secu- 
larisation in  various  parts,  partly  by  the  use  of  it  as  a 
public  exchange,  and  even  a  police  station,  i)artly  by  the 
imprisonment  for  several  months  in  1666  of  the  Cove- 
nanters taken  at  Rullion  Green,  and  partly  as  a  common 
rendezvous  for  idle  and  dissolute  persons.  Till  1817 
what  with  the  Krames,  the  Luckenbooths,  the  Old 
Tolbooth,  a  western  range  of  shops,  the  south-western 
range  of  New  Tolbooth  and  Goldsmiths'  Hall,  and  the 
south-eastern  piazza  range  of  Parliament  Close,  it 
was  so  enveloped  as  to  be  entirely  hidden  from  view, 
with  the  exception  only  of  its  surmounting  tower 
and  parts  of  its  southern  and  eastern  fronts.  It  had 
once  the  ordinary  cathedral  cruciform  outline,  but, 
by  additions,  alterations,  and  curtailments,  lost  nearly 
all  trace  of  its  original  form  ;  and  it  was  in  styles  of 
architecture  ranging  from  pure  Norman  till  the  latest 
Pointed,  but  now  shows  no  feature  of  an  earlier  date 
than  the  14th  century,  and  scarcely  any  style  except 
a  comparatively  plain  variety  of  Gothic.  It  under- 
went, in  1829-32,  under  the  direction  of  Mr  Burn, 
with  aid  of  a  government  grant  of  £12,600,  an  extensive 
renovation,  w-hich,  while  giving  it  an  aspect  of  fresh- 
ness, harmony,  and  strength,  swept  away  some  of  its 
finest  features,  some  of  its  unique  parts,  and  nearly  all 
its  antique  character,  so  that  now  it  presents  exteriorly 
an  irregular,  heavy,  and  comparativtily  tasteless  appear- 
ance, with  little  of  either  the  symmetry  of  form  or  grace 
of  decoration  commonly  found  in  edifices  of  its  age  and 
class  ;  yet  by  its  massive  breadth,  and  especially  by  its 
surmounting  tower,  it  strikes  the  eye  as  grand  and  im- 
pressive. 

The  length  of  the  edifice,  in  its  present  form,  is  206 
feet,  and  its  breadth  at  the  W  end  110  feet,  at  the 
middle  129  feet,  at  the  E  end  76  feet.  The  steeple  was 
rebuilt  in  1648,  on  the  model  of  a  previous  one,  which, 
being  weather-worn  and  dilapidated,  reijuired  to  be 
taken  down ;  it  consists  of  square  tower  and  lantern  spire, 
rises  from  the  centre  of  the  pile  to  a  height  of  161  feet 
from  the  ground,  and,  being  situated  on  an  elevated 
part  of  the  High  Street  and  Lawnmarket,  is  seen  from 
a  great  distance,  and  forms  a  characteristic  feature  in 
all  views  of  the  city.  The  tower  terminates  in  a  Gothic 
balustrade  ;  the  spire  comprises  an  open  octagonal  lan- 
tern and  a  crowning  spirelet,  showing  the  form  of  an 
imperial  crown  ;  and  the  lantern  consists  of  intersecting 
arches,  set  with  pinnacles.  Within  the  sj)ire  there  is  a 
chime  of  bells,  which  are  played  every  week-day  for  an 
hour.  The  arrangement  of  the  interior,  since  the  Refor- 
mation, has  been  repeatedly  altered,  as  by  the  suppression 
of  one  of  the  four  parish  churches,  by  changes  on  the 
other  three,  and  by  disuse  of  the  Assembly  aisle  for 
Assembly  purposes.  In  1872,  it  comprised  the  High 
Church  in  the  E,  the  New  North  or  West  St  Giles' 
in  the  W,  and  Trinity  College  Church  in  the  S,  but  was 
freed  from  the  last  of  these  in  1878  by  the  erection  of  a 
separate  edifice  for  the  Trinity  College  congregation  ; 
while,  in  1881,  that  of  West  St  Giles'  was  also  removed 
to  a  temporary  church  at  the  NE  corner  of  Bruntsfield 
Links,  pending  the  erection  of  a  new  edifice  at  Argyle 
Park  Terrace,  facing  the  West  Meadows. 

An  interior  restoration  of  St  Giles'  was  proposed  in 
1867,  but  delayed  till  1872,  and  the  jiart  first  undertaken 
was  the  choir  or  High  Church.  Begun  ujider  the  direc- 
tion of  Mr  W.  Hay,  the  process  of  renewal  laid  hare  and 
restored  to  light  many  beautiful  features  in  pillar,  wall, 
and  roof,  as  the  old  fittings  were  cleared  away  ;  the 
passages  were  then  relaid  with   tiles  bearing  anti(jue 

£15 


EDINBURGH 


EDINBURGH 


Scottish  devices ;  an  elccjant  royal  pew,  ornate  stalls 
for  the  lords  of  session  and  civic  dignitaries,  comfortable 
open  seats  for  the  congregation,  and  a  reredos  and  pulpit 
of  Caen  stone,  were  all  erected,  which,  with  various 
other  improvements,  cost  about  £4490.  In  its  reno- 
vated form,  this  portion  of  St  Giles'  was  reopened  in 
March  1S73.  The  southern  part,  occupied  by  the 
Trinity  College  Church  congregation,  was  next  imder- 
taken  in  February  1S79  ;  began  by  lifting  floors,  re- 
moving partitions,  and  opening  up  aisles  ;  and  was  com- 
pleted in  August  18S0  at  a  cost  of  about  £3000,  nearly 
double  the  estimated  sum  for  the  restoration  of  this 
portion.  The  most  conspicuous  additions  at  this  date 
were  the  ornamental  tiles  laid  in  the  S  transept  and 
the  Moray  aisle,  also  the  very  tasteful  ii-on-grill  in 
the  same  aisle.  From  this  aisle  there  is  a  descent  of  a 
few  steps  to  a  crypt,  in  which  are  the  tombs  of  the 
Recent  Murray,  Alexander,  fourth  Earl  of  Galloway, 
and  the  Earl  of  Athole,  Lord  High  Chancellor  of  Scot- 
land, with  marble  tablets  indicating  the  names  and 
dates.  From  the  crypt  there  is  a  further  descent  to  the 
vault  in  which  was  entombed  the  Marquis  of  Montrose, 
in  which  the  name  and  date,  1661,  are  likewise  inscribed 
on  a  tablet.  When  this  vault  was  taken  in  hand,  it 
had  been  transformed  into  a  coal  cellar.  It  is  now  in 
thorough  order,  and  a  few  bones,  being  all  that  could 
be  recovered  in  the  vault,  have  been  interred  under  the 
tablet  on  the  floor.  The  Montrose  vault  is,  perhaps,  the 
most  interesting  historical  spot  in  St  Giles'.  This  com- 
pleted the  restoration  of  two-thirds  of  the  old  cathedral, 
and  there  remained  only  the  nave,  occupied  by  the 
congregation  of  "West  St  Giles',  to  be  undertaken.  This 
further  restoration  was  completed  in  1882,  and  in  the 
execution  of  it  valuable  specimens  of  14th  and  15th  cen- 
tury architecture  have  been  discovered.  This  last  portion 
includes  the  Albany  and  St  Eloise's  (or  Old  Hammer- 
men's) chapels.  These  two  chapels,  as  well  as  three 
arches  of  the  southern  aisle,  being  of  a  higher  level  than 
the  rest  of  the  editice,  are  enclosed  within  handsome 
screens  of  wrought  iron.  In  a  recess  in  the  Albanj' 
aisle  it  is  designed  to  place  a  recumbent  figure  in  white 
marble  of  the  dying  Duke  of  Rothesay.  All  the  win- 
dows in  St  GUes'  are  in  the  Perpendicular  style  of  Gothic 
art  which  prevailed  from  the  14th  to  the  16th  centuries, 
and  these  are  being  filled  with  memorial  windows  in 
stained  glass,  those  in  the  choir  being  all  illustrative  of 
the  life  of  our  Lord  ;  whilst  the  clerestory  windows  are 
similarly  filled  with  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  several 
incorporated  trades  of  Edinburgh — the  whole  being  the 
design  and  workmanship  of  Messrs  Ballantine  &  Sons, 
under  the  superintendence  of  R.  Herdman,  R.S.A. 
"When  the  work  of  restoration  is  fully  completed,  the 
cathedral  church  of  St  Giles'  will  be  of  valuable  service 
to  the  historian  and  the  student  of  architecture,  and  a 
place  of  interest  second  to  none  within  the  confines  of 
Edinburgh.  It  only  remains  to  be  noted  that  much  of 
what  has  been  done  and  is  doing  in  the  restoration  of  St 
Giles',  is  owing  in  great  measure  to  the  public  spirit  and 
generous  liberality  of  Dr  William  Chambers,  the  emi- 
nent publisher.  {SeeEcgistrum  Cartarum Ecclesvz  Sancti 
Egidii  dc  Edinburgh :  a  series  of  charters  and  original 
documents  connected  with  the  church  of  St  Giles',  Edin- 
burgh, ed.  by  D.  Laing,  Edinb.  1859  ;  and  Chambers's 
Story  of  St  Giles'  Catlwlral  Church,  Edinb.  1879.) 

Trinity  College  Church  stood  on  the  W  side  of  the 
foot  of  Leith  Wynd  ;  was  founded  in  1462,  by  Mary  of 
Gueldres,  consort  of  James  II.,  as  a  collegiate  church 
for  a  provost,  8  prebendaries,  and  2  choristers  ;  and  was 
originally  called  the  Collegiate  Church  of  the  Holy 
Trinity,  but,  after  the  Reformation,  known  as  the  College 
Kirk  ;  and  was  removed  in  1848  by  the  clearances  for 
the  North  British  Railway.  It  consisted  of  choir,  tran- 
septs, and  unfinished  central  tower,  with  a  richness  of 
design  and  beauty  of  execution  equal  to  those  of  the  best 
Gothic  structures  in  England,  and  showed,  in  its  salient 
parts,  a  great  variety  of  exquisite  sculptures,  some  of 
them  in  natural,  but  most  in  grotesque  or  monstrous  fea- 
ture. It  had  an  apsidal  termination  of  its  choir,  pierced 
»»i-th  three  lofty  and  richly-traceried  windows :  was 
516 


entered,  at  the  S  aisle,  by  a  very  fine  doorway,  beneath 
a  beautiful  porch  with  groined  roof;  was  seated  only 
over  the  central  aisle,  leaving  the  pillars  fully  exposed 
to  view  ;  and  had  there  a  lofty  roof,  in  very  rich  groin- 
ing, with  remarkable  variety  of  detail.  The  mortal 
remains  of  its  royal  foundress  lay  interred  in  an  aisle  on 
the  N  .side ;  but,  at  the  taking  down  of  the  church,  these 
were  reinterred  in  the  royal  cemetery  at  Holyrood.  The 
stones  of  the  edifice  were  removed  under  registry  by  a 
skilful  architect,  ^\■ith  the  view  of  being  reconstructed 
on  some  other  site  ;  but,  becoming  the  subject  of  sharp 
and  long-continued  litigation,  the}^  lay  bleaching  on  a 
slope  adjacent  to  the  Low  Caltoii  buryiug-ground  till 
1872.  The  scheme  for  re-erection  was  not  matured  till 
1871  ;  and  it  then  merged  in  designs  by  the  architect 
Mr  John  Lessels,  for  an  entirel}'  new  building  to  serve 
as  the  church,  with  an  annexe  formed  out  of  the  old 
materials  to  serve  as  a  congi-egational  hall. 

The  new  structure  is  oblong,  and  stands  with  front 
and  main  entrance  toward  Jeflrey  Street,  and  with  one 
side  abutting  on  Chalmers  Close.  The  front  contains 
the  main  entrance,  in  form  of  an  exact  reproduction  of 
the  deeply-moulded  doorway,  with  surmounting  Norman 
Gothic  arch,  which  formed  so  notable  an  ornament  of 
the  original  church  ;  is  pierced,  over  the  entrance,  with  a 
large,  pointed,  traceried  window ;  and  has,  on  each  side  of 
that  window,  a  niche  for  a  statue.  It  terminates  in  a  gable, 
pierced  with  a  circular  cusped  window,  and  surmounted 
by  a  cross  ;  is  flanked,  on  the  W  side  of  the  gable,  by  a 
square  three-story  tower  115  feet  high — on  the  E  side, 
by  a  turret,  carried  up  from  the  ground,  and  finished  at 
the  top  with  a  stone  roof  and  ornamental  finial ;  and 
measures  62  feet  in  ■width,  inclusive  of  the  tower  and 
turret,  and  70  feet  in  height  to  the  top  of  the  cross. 
The  tower  is  pierced  with  ^\indows,  has  buttresses  and 
crocheted  pinnacles  ;  and,  at  the  height  of  70  feet  from 
the  ground,  takes  the  form  of  a  broached  spire  of 
octagonal  section,  relieved,  half-way  up,  with  a  row  of 
dormer  windows.  The  side  elevations  are  pierced  with 
rows  of  lancet-shaped  windows  of  two,  three,  and  four 
lights,  rise  to  the  height  of  35  feet  in  clear  wall,  and 
are  surmounted  by  a  high-pitched  roof  of  single  span, 
rising  to  the  height  of  about  65  feet.  Many  of  these 
architectural  details  are  reproductions  of  features  in  the 
original  church.  A  small  building,  at  the  S  end  of  the  W 
side,  contains  an  entrance  lobby  and  a  minister's  room. 
The  pulpit  is  a  handsome  structure  of  carved  and  moulded 
woodwork,  and  is  another  reproduction.  The  annexe  is 
mainly  a  reconstruction  of  the  E  end  of  the  original 
church,  entirely  from  the  old  stones  ;  but,  instead  of 
being  placed  end-on  to  the  new  structure,  is  so  turned 
round  that  the  apse,  with  its  three  deeply-moulded 
lancet  windows,  and  its  buttresses  and  ornamental 
finials,  stands  as  part  of  the  E  elevation  of  the  composite 
edifice.  A  gable,  reproducing  the  old  transept  window, 
forms  a  corresponding  feature  in  the  W  elevation  ;  two 
arches,  representing  two  in  the  old  nave,  pierce  the  S 
wall  of  the  new  building  ;  the  width  of  the  old  nave, 
and  the  height  to  the  spring  of  the  arch,  respectively 
24  and  48  feet,  are  preserved ;  the  length  of  the  recon- 
struction is  65  feet,  nearly  corresponding  to  the  width 
of  the  new  church ;  the  arched  spaces  between  the  aisles 
and  the  clerestory,  with  its  beautiful  roof  of  groined 
stonework,  reappear  exactly  as  they  were  in  the  old 
structure. 

The  Tron  Church  stands  isolated  in  Hunter  Square, 
at  the  corner  of  High  Street  and  South  Bridge.  It  was 
founded  in  1637,  opened  in  1647,  and  completed  in  1663, 
at  a  cost  of  above  £6000.  Consecrated  to  Christ  and  the 
Church,  it  received  its  name  from  being  situated  opposite 
a  public  weighing  beam  or  tron,  called  the  Salt  Tron.  It 
suffered  curtailment  in  1785,  at  the  forming  of  South 
Bridge  ;  lost  the  upper  part  of  its  original  steeple,  a 
curious  lead-covered  wooden  spire,  by  the  great  fire  in 
1824,  but  acquired,  in  1828,  a  handsome  new  spire  of 
stone.  It  presents  its  main  front,  containing  the  en- 
trance door- way,  to  High  Street ;  exhibits  there  char- 
acters of  architecture  which  have  been  styled  the  Scot- 
tish Renaissance,  but  really  do  not  belong  to  any  regular 


EDINBURGH 

stj'le,  and  cannot  he  callotl  interesting;;  has,  in  each  face 
of  its  tower,  a  clock-dial  which  is  illuminated  from  the 
inside  after  nightfall ;  and  acquired,  in  1870,  a  large 
stained-glass  window,  of  triplet  tracery,  divided  by  a 
transom.  (See  The  Tron  Kirk,  Edinhurgh,  a  Lecture  by 
W.  Findlay,  Edinb.  1879.) 

The  Greyfriars'  Churches,  Old  and  New,  stand  in  a 
recess  from  the  head  of  Candlemaker  Row  or  S  end  of 
George IV.  Bridge;  theytooktheirname  from  a  monastery 
founded  by  James  I.,  situated  at  the  SW  corner  of  Grass- 
market;  and  occupy  a  site  on  the  cro^vn  or  south-eastern 
portion  of  an  enclosure,  which  rises  gently  from  Grass- 
market  to  the  summit  at  the  ancient  boundary  of  the 
city,  and  was  long  the  park  or  garden  of  the  monastery. 
The  monastery  was  an  edifice  of  great  size  and  much 
magnificence;  became,  in  1449,  the  temporary  residence 
of  the  Princess  Mary  of  Gueldres,  and  a  few  years  after- 
wards, the  asylum  of  Henry  VI.  of  England ;  and  was 
demolished  in  1559,  the  garden  being  then  given  by 
Queen  Marj'  to  the  citizens  to  be  used  as  a  public 
cemetery.  The  Old  church  was  built  in  1612  ;  had  origi- 
nally an  ungraceful  form,  relieved  only  by  a  steeple  at  its 
W  end  ;  lost  that  steeple  in  1718,  by  an  explosion  of  gun- 
powder which  had  been  lodged  there  by  the  city  autho- 
rities for  security ;  and  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  Jan.  1845. 
It  underwent  restoration  so  tardily  that  it  did  not  become 
again  serviceable  till  1857,  when  it  acquired  windows  of 
beautifully  stained-glass,  and  became  notable  as  the  first 
Presbyterian  Established  church  to  adopt  the  use  of  the 
organ.  It  numbers  among  its  ministers  Principal  Rollock, 
Principal  Carstares,  Principal  Robertson,  Dr  John 
Erskine,  Dr  John  Inglis,  Dr  Guthrie,  and  Dr  Robert 
Lee  ;  and  contains  a  beautiful  medallion  monument  to 
Dr  Lee,  sculptured  by  Hutchison,  and  put  up  in  1S70. 
This  church  figures  in  Sir  "Walter  Scott's  Guy  Mannering ; 
and  is  famous  for  the  signing  of  the  Solemn  League 
and  Covenant  in  1638,  partly  within  its  walls,  and  partly 
on  a  neighbouring  tombstone.  —  New  Grej'friars  was 
built  in  1721  at  a  cost  of  £3045,  adjoining  the  W  end  of 
the  Old  church.  It  forms,  conjointly  with  the  Old 
chiu'ch,  a  lengthy  oblong  edifice,  with  broad  slated  roof 
and  comparatively  plain  appearance.  It  shared  in  the 
fire  which  destroyed  the  Old  church  in  1845,  but  suffered 
much  less  injury,  and  was  soon  restored  for  use. 

Lady  Tester's  Church  was  founded  in  1647  by  Dame 
Margaret  Ker,  Lady  Tester,  being  built,  and  partly  en- 
dowed from  a  gift  of  15, 000  merks,  by  that  lady.  It  stood 
a  little  to  the  E  of  the  site  of  the  new  church  which  super- 
seded it,  and  was  surrounded  by  a  small  cemetery  now 
covered  with  buildings.  The  new  Lady  Tester's  Church 
was  erected  in  1803  on  the  N  side  of  Infirmary  Street, 
a  pliin  structure,  without  a  spire,  and  has  a  quaint 
nondescript  front,  sometimes  erroneously  described  as 
Gothic.  In  1865,  it  underwent  window  decoration 
and  internal  improvement  at  a  cost  of  about  £600,  and 
again,  in  Oct.  1881,  was  further  altered  and  improved  at 
a  cost  of  about  £700. — St  John's  Church  stands  on  the 
S  side  of  Victoria  Street,  was  built  in  1838,  and  is  a 
large  edifice,  in  mixed  architecture,  with  a  Saxon  door- 
way, and  without  a  tower.- — Greenside  church  stands 
on  the  northern  slope  of  Calton  Hill,  at  the  W  end  of 
Royal  Terrace,  and  is  sufficiently  isolated  to  expose  all 
its  sides  to  view.  It  was  mainly  built  in  1838,  but 
did  not  acquire  the  greater  part  of  its  tower  till  1851 ; 
is  a  quasi-cruciform  structure,  in  very  poor  modem 
Gothic ;  has  a  tower  of  only  two  stages,  crowned  with 
poor  pinnacles  ;  and,  being  a  conspicuous  object  in  the 
near  neighbourhood  of  great  masses  of  Grijeco-Italian 
architecture,  is  a  blot  upon  the  landscape. — The  Gaelic 
church  stood  at  the  corner  of  Horse  Wynd  and  Argyle 
Square,  adjacent  to  the  W  end  of  North  College  Street, 
and  was  a  plain  building,  without  a  spire.  Being  pur- 
chased by  the  City  Improvement  Trustees  for  £6000, 
it  was  removed  in  the  clearances  for  Chambers  Street  in 
1871.  The  congregation,  after  worshipping  for  a  time 
in  the  Reformation  Society's  Hall  in  George  IV.  Bridge, 
occupy  now  a  place  of  their  own  in  Broughton  Street, 
which  was  some  years  ago  vacated  by  the  congregation 
of  the  Catholic  Apostolic  church. 


EDINBURGH 

St  George's  Church  stands  on  the  W  side  of  Char- 
lotte Square,  on  a  line  with  George  Street.  It  was 
erected  in  1811-14,  after  designs  by  Robert  Reid,  at  a 
cost  of  £33,000  ;  is  in  massive  Gneco-Italian  style,  on 
a  square  ground-plan  measuring  112  feet  each  way  ;  and 
is  surmounted  by  a  miniature  of  the  dome  of  St  Paul's 
in  London,  but  so  large  and  beautiful  as  to  be  more  like 
a  reduced  copy  than  a  mere  miniature.  The  church 
front,  toward  the  square,  has  a  lofty  Ionic  portico,  with 
four  columns  and  two  pilasters,  between  two  compara- 
tively plain  projecting  wings — the  columns  rising  from 
the  platform  of  a  flight  of  steps,  and  surmounted  by 
only  an  entablature  and  a  balustrade,  with  a  heavy 
and  tasteless  appearance.  The  domed  superstructure 
comprises — first,  a  square  basement,  with  massive  cor- 
nice ;  next,  a  circular  tower,  engirt  with  an  attic- 
Corinthian  colonnade  ;  next,  a  great  lead-covered  dome, 
and  then,  successively,  a  cyclostyle  lantern,  cupola,  and 
cross, — the  last  at  the  height  of  150  feet  from  the 
ground,  the  whole  being  finely  proportioned,  admirably 
executed,  and  gi-acefuUy  impressive.  It  figures  very 
nobly  both  in  near  views  around  the  square,  and  in  all 
the  general  views  of  the  New  Town.  — St  Luke's  Church 
stands  in  Toung  Street,  was  originally  a  chapel  of  ease 
to  St  George's,  and  is  a  large,  plain,  modern  edifice, 
without  a  tower. 

St  Andrew's  Church  stands  on  the  N  side  of  George 
Street,  opposite  the  Commercial  Bank.  It  was  built  in 
1785,  in  i)lain  oval  form,  without  a  steeple,  but  acquired 
afterwards  an  attached  structure  on  its  front,  compris- 
ing an  elegant  tetrastyle  Corinthian  portico,  surmounted 
by  a  tower  and  spire  168  feet  high  ;  and  is  notable  as  the 
meeting-place,  in  1843,  of  the  General  Assembly,  at 
which  occurred  the  Disruption,  or  secession  of  the  Free 
Church.  It  imderwent  interior  improvement  and  de- 
coration in  1862.  The  tower  is  of  three  stages,  very 
symmetrical  and  adorned  with  pillars,  and  contains  a 
fine  chime  of  eight  bells ;  the  spire  is  octagonal  and 
beautifully  tapering ;  and  the  two  together  form  a 
graceful  steeple,  which  figures  conspicuously  in  almost 
every  view  of  the  New  Town. — St  Stephen's  Church 
stands  at  the  foot  of  the  northern  New  Town,  on  a  site 
confronting  the  line  of  St  Vincent  Street.  It  was 
erected  in  1826-28,  after  designs  by  W.  H.  Playfair,  at  a 
cost  of  £21,000  ;  is  in  a  mixed  style  of  architecture  ;  has 
an  octagonal  outline  and  heavj-  appearance ;  and  presents 
to  St  Vincent  Street  a  narrow  fa9ade,  with  spacious  lofty 
flight  of  steps,  leading  to  a  massive  arched  doorway, 
flanked  by  comparatively  plain  receding  fronts,  and 
surmounted  by  a  massive  square  tower,  rising  163  feet 
from  the  ground,  and  terminating  in  a  lofty  balustrade, 
with  elegant  double  cross  at  each  angle.  Its  com- 
modious interior  underwent  considerable  alteration  and 
renovation  consequent  upon  the  introduction  of  an 
organ  in  1880. — St  Mary's  Church  stands  in  the  centre 
of  the  unfinished  Bellevue  Crescent.  It  was  built  in 
1824,  after  designs  by  Thomas  Brown,  at  a  cost  of 
£24,000  ;  has  an  oblong  form,  with  the  NE  end  as 
its  main  front ;  and  is  adorned  there,  from  the  plat- 
form of  a  spacious  flight  of  steps,  with  a  noble,  lofty, 
hexastyle,  pedimented  Corinthian  portico,  surmounted 
by  a  tower  of  three  stages,  terminating  in  a  cupolar 
superstructure,  rising  to  the  height  of  186  feet.  The 
first  stage  of  the  tower  is  square,  and  has  Doric  pillars 
at  its  corners  ;  the  second  and  the  third  stages  are 
circular,  and  have  respectively  Ionic  and  Corinthian 
jiillars  around  tliem  ;  the  cupola  is  little  more  than  an 
arched  stone  roofing  over  the  third  stage,  and  entirely 
out  of  harmony  ^vitli  the  rest  of  the  pile,  but  is  crowned 
by  a  beautiful,  small,  open  cyclostyle  in  the  form  of  a 
lantern. 

St  Cuthbert's  or  West  Church  has  been  noticed  in 
the  section  on  St  Cuthbert's  parish. — St  Bernard's 
Church  stands  in  West  Clarcmont  Street,  was  built  in 
1823  as  a  chapel  of  ease  to  St  Cuthbert's,  and  is  a 
spacious  and  comparatively  plain  edifice,  with  a  low, 
neat  steeple. — Buccleuch  church  stands  in  Buccleuch 
Street,  opposite  Crosscauseway,  120  yards  E  of  George 
Square,  and  was  erected  in  1755,  as  a  chapel  of  ease  to  St 

517 


EDINBURGH 

Cuthbert's,  at  a  cost  of  £800 ;  but,  being  a  very 
unsightly  structure,  it  underwent  restoration  and  em- 
bellishment in  1866,  after  designs  by  D.  M 'Gibbon,  at 
a  cost  of  more  than  £2000.  It  has  now  a  lofty  gable  over 
its  entrance,  and  a  turret  70  feet  high  on  its  S  side,  and 
is  adorned  with  several  very  fine  memorial  windows, 
one  of  them  erected  by  the  Marijuis  of  Bute  to  the 
memory  of  his  ancestress,  Flora,  daughter  of  Macleod  of 
Easay. — St  David's  Church  stands  in  Gardner's  Cres- 
cent, was  originally  a  chapel  of  ease  to  St  Cuthbert's, 
and  has  a  Grecian  portico,  but  very  plain  flank. — Dean 
church  stands  in  the  suburb  of  Dean,  erected  as  a 
chapel  of  ease  to  St  Cuthbert's,  and  has  been  already 
referred  to  under  Dean. — Lady  Glenoruhy's  Church,  in 
Roxburgh  Place,  was  built  in  1809  as  a  chapel  of  ease  to 
St  Cuthbert's  ;  was  long  called  Roxburgh  church  ;  and  is 
a  plain  edifice.  The  original  Lady  Glenorchy's  Church 
sprang  from  the  beneficence  of  the  wife  of  John  Vis- 
count Glenorchy.  It  was,  for  some  time,  a  rented  chapel 
in  Niddry's  Wynd,  designed  for  Evangelical  ministers  of 
all  denominations ;  but  by-and-by  a  large  plain  edifice  of 
1774,  situated  at  the  foot  of  Leith  Wynd,  in  connection 
\nth  the  Establishment,  and  demolished  for  the  North 
British  Railway  in  1845.  It  is  now  represented,  on 
the  part  of  the  Establishment,  by  Roxburgh  church, 
and  on  the  part  of  the  Free  Church,  by  a  new  edifice  in 
Greenside  Place. — Grange  church  stands  at  the  corner 
of  Kilgraston  Road  and  Strathearn  Road ;  was  erected 
in  1871,  after  designs  by  Robert  Morham,  at  a  cost  of 
about  £6000,  as  a  memorial  to  Professor  James  Robert- 
son ;  and  consists  of  nave  and  transepts,  with  a  steeple 
in  the  centre  of  the  breast  gable,  rising  to  a  height  of 
150  feet. — Morningside  church  stands  on  the  E  side  of  the 
upper  part  of  Morningside  suburb,  and  has  been  already 
referred  to  under  Morningside. — Newington  church  is 
on  the  S  side  of  Clerk  Street,  a  little  N  of  Ne^ington  ; 
was  erected  in  1823  as  a  chapel  of  ease  to  St  Cuthbert's  ; 
is  a  neat,  large,  oblong  edifice,  with  a  Roman  end  front, 
and  a  steeple  110  feet  high. — Abbey  church  stands  on 
the  S  side  of  London  Road,  near  Abbeyhill  station  ;  was 
erected  in  1875-76  at  a  cost  of  about  £7000  ;  is  a  hand- 
some edifice  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  tower  and  spire  ; 
contains  850  sittings ;  and  serves  for  a  quoad  sacra  parish 
formed  out  of  Greenside  and  South  Leith  parishes. — St 
Leonard's  Church  stands  in  Parkside  Place,  opposite  the 
E  end  of  Lutton  Place ;  was  built  in  1876  at  a  cost  of 
about  £5500 ;  contains  900  sittings  ;  and  serves  for  a 
quoad  sacra  parish  formed  out  of  St  Cuthbert's,  Lady 
Yester,  and  Newington  parishes. — Queen's  Park  church 
stands  in  Prospect  Place,  Dumbiedykes  Road  ;  is  in  the 
Gothic  style,  \s4th  a  spire  rising  150  feet,  having  accom- 
modation for  850  sittings  ;  and  cost  about  £4000. — AVest 
Coates  church  stands  on  the  Glasgow  Road,  not  far 
from  Donaldson's  Hospital ;  was  erected  in  1869,  after 
designs  by  Mr  Bryce,  at  a  cost  of  £7500,  as  a  chapel  of 
ease  to  St  Cuthbert's  ;  is  in  the  later  Pointed  style,  with 
a  tower  and  spire  130  feet  high  ;  and  has  been  pro- 
nounced '  clumsy,  squat,  and  badly  detailed. ' — Mayfield 
church  is  in  Ne\vington,  and  is  also  a  neat,  though 
small,  building  in  Gothic  style,  with  handsome  interior. 
A  new  church  is  at  present  in  progress  (1882)  at  North 
Merchiston,  which  is  estimated  to  cost  £13,000. 

Free  Churches. — Barclay  Church  stands  on  the  western 
verge  of  Bruntsfield  Links,  opposite  the  entrance  to 
Gillespie  Crescent,  and  was  erected  in  1862-63,  after 
designs  by  F.  T.  Pilkington,  at  a  cost  of  £10,000,  de- 
frayed from  a  bequest  by  a  lady  named  Barclay.  It  is  a 
curiously  intricate  example  of  the  Venetian-Gothic  style, 
pronounced  by  Professor  Blackie,  'full  of  individual 
beauties  or  prettinesses  in  detail,  yet,  as  a  whole,  dis- 
orderly, inorganic,  and  monstrous.'  It  has  an  elegant 
tower  and  spire,  rising  to  the  height  of  250  feet,  reliev- 
ing the  monotony  of  tne  surrounding  scenery,  and  figur- 
ing grandly  from  many  distant  points  of  view.  Barclay 
Church  underwent  considerable  interior  alteration  in 
1880,  addin"  materially  to  the  comfort  of  the  congrega- 
tion.— Buccleuch  church  stands  in  the  western  sec- 
tion of  Crosscauseway,  nearly  confronting  the  Esta- 
blished Buccleuch  church.  It  was  erected  in  1856 
518 


EDINBURGH 

in  pleasing  Gothic  style,  and  acquired,  in  1861-62,  after 
a  design  by  Hay  of  Liverpool,  a  lofty,  well-proportioned, 
octagonal  spire. — Canongate  or  John  Knox's  Church  is 
on  the  N  side  of  Netherbow,  immediately  E  of  John 
Knox's  House,  and  was  erected  in  1850.  It  has  a  remark- 
ably beautiful  facade  of  florid  Gothic,  terminating  in 
four  richly  crocheted  pinnacles,  and  in  a  decorated 
pediment,  surmounted  by  a  cross. — Cowgate  and  Cow- 
gatehead  churches  are  comparatively  recent  buildings, 
erected  on  the  territorial  principle  for  Cowgate  district. 
— Dairy  church  is  at  the  corner  of  Cathcart  Place,  Dairy. 
It  is  a  very  handsome  building,  with  fine  front  and  en- 
trance porch,  with  several  pinnacles  on  its  roof,  and  at 
its  western  corner  a  very  graceful  spire  rising  from 
a  lantern  tower.  It  has  a  congregational  hall  with 
rotunda-shaped  front  at  its  eastern  side. — Dean  church 
has  been  already  noticed. — Grange  or  Chalmers'  Memo- 
rial Church  stands  at  the  angle  of  Lovers'  Loan  and 
opposite  Grange  cemetery.  It  was  erected  in  1866, 
after  designs  by  Patrick  Wilson,  at  a  cost  of  £5000, 
as  a  memorial  of  Dr  Chalmers  ;  consists  of  nave  and 
transepts,  respectively  60  aud  67  feet  long,  and  each 
31  feet  wide  ;  is  in  the  Geometric  style,  with  a  highly- 
pitched  gable  on  the  nave,  forming  the  principal  front ; 
has  there  a  large  four-light  traceried  window  above 
the  entrance  door-way  ;  and  was  designed  to  have  an 
octagonal  spire,  surmounting  a  three-stage  tower,  and 
rising  to  the  height  of  165  feet. — Greyfriars'  Church  is 
in  Graham  Street,  and  has  a  neat  Saxon  front,  with  two 
small  turrets  aud  a  pediment. — High  Church  forms  the 
eastern  part  of  the  Free  Church  College  buildings,  is  of 
plainer  character  than  the  rest  of  these  buildings,  and 
has,  on  its  E  side,  a  small  neat  porch. — Holyrood  church 
stands  amid  a  block  of  buildings  immediately  W  of  the 
Palace-yard  of  Holyrood,  and  is  a  plain  edifice. 

Lady  Glenorchy's  Church  stands  in  Greenside  Place, 
opposite  the  junction  of  Picardy  Place  and  Leith  Walk  ; 
and  has  a  factitious  front  in  the  Tudor  style,  with  low, 
broad,  embattled  tower. — M'Crie  Church  stands  in 
Davie  Street,  is  a  plain  large  building,  formerly  be- 
longed to  the  Original  Secession,  and  is  notable  for  the 
ministry  in  it  of  Dr  M'Crie,  the  biogi'apher  of  Knox  and 
Melville. — Martyrs'  Church,  originally  belonging  to  the 
Reformed  Presbyterians,  amalgamated  with  the  Free 
Church  in  1876,  and  is  on  the  W  side  of  George  IV. 
Bridge.  It  was  built  in  1860,  and  has  a  Gothic  front ; 
a  former  building  being  in  Lady  Lawsou's  Wynd.  — May- 
field  church  is  at  the  corner  of  St  Andrew's  Terrace  and 
Mayfield  Loan ;  is  Gothic  in  style,  cruciform  in  plan  ; 
and  has  a  very  neatly  decorated  doorway  and  frontage.  — 
Moray  Church  stands  in  the  grounds  of  Moray  House, 
contiguous  to  South  Back  of  Canongate  ;  was  erected  in 
1862 ;  and  is  a  reduced  copy  of  Barclay  Church,  without 
the  tower. — Morningside  church  has  been  already  noticed 
under  Morningside. — Newington  church  is  on  the  E  side 
of  Clerk  Street,  a  short  distance  S  of  Newington  Esta- 
blished church  ;  was  built  partly  in  plain  style  immedi- 
ately after  the  Disruption,  partly  somewhat  ornately  a 
number  of  years  later  ;  and  is  a  spacious  edifice,  with  a 
Gothic  front. — New  North  Church  stands  in  the  sharp 
angle  at  the  junction  of  Forrest  Road  and  Bristo  Place, 
confronting  the  line  of  George  IV.  Bridge.  It  was  erected 
about  1846  ;  is  an  oblong  edifice  in  the  Gothic  .style, 
with  main  front  on  the  end  toward  George  IV.  Bridge  ; 
and  has,  on  the  basement  of  that  front,  a  projection 
about  12  feet  outward,  adorned  with  an  unfinished  Gothic 
colonnade. — Pilrig  church  stands  at  tlio  N  corner  of 
Pilrig  Street  and  Leith  Walk,  and  was  erected  in  1861-62, 
after  designs  by  Peddie  &  Kinnear,  at  a  cost  of  about 
£6000.  It  is  in  the  French-Gothic  style,  has  two  wheel 
windows  toward  respectively  Pilrig  Street  and  Leith 
Walk,  and  is  surmounted  by  an  octagonal  spire  150 
feet  high. — Roseburn  church  stands  near  Coltbridge  and 
Murrayfield,  and  is  a  handsome  modern  edifice,  with  a 
spire. — Pleasance  church  was  a  plain  building  in  Pleas- 
ance,  but  the  congregation,  in  1875,  purchased  the  In- 
dependent Chapel  in  Riclimond  Place,  an  edifice  erected 
about  1842,  and  presenting  pleasant  Early  Gothic 
features. — Roxburgh  church  has  a  rear  front  to  Rich- 


EDINBURGH 

mond  Place,  and  a  neat  porch  opening  into  Hill  Square, 
and  is  a  plain  building. — St  Andrew's  Churcli  stands 
behind  the  street-line  of  the  S  side  of  George  Street,  and 
is  entered  by  a  lobby  through  the  house  which  was 
occupied  till  1850  by  the  Free  Church  College.— St 
Bernard's  Church  stands  on  the  S  side  of  Henderson 
Row ;  was  erected,  in  lieu  of  a  previous  building,  in 
1856  ;  and  is  in  the  Gothic  style,  consisting  of  nave  and 
aisles  ^Tith  a  small  spiral  tower. — St  Columba's  or  the 
Gaelic  Church  and  St  Cuthbert's  Church  stand  in  short 
streets  between  Castle  Terrace  and  Lothian  Road,  and 
are  neat  Gothic  structures. — St  David's  Church  stands 
in  Morrison  Street,  and  is  a  plain  building,  with  a  large 
hall  behind,  added  in  1881. 

St  George's  Church  stands  at  the  comer  of  Shandwick 
Place  and  Stafford  Street,  and  superseded  a  previous 
church  in  Lothian  Road  on  ground  now  occupied  by  the 
Caledonian  station.  It  was  built  in  1866-69,  after  designs 
by  David  Bryce,  at  a  cost,  including  site,  of  about 
£31,000 ;  is  in  the  Palladian  style,  perfestly  classical,  but 
with  an  aspect  which  would  have  been  suited  equally  for 
a  music  hall.  It  presents  its  main  front  to  Shandwick 
Place,  with  an  entrance  flanked  by  coupled  Ionic  columns, 
and  slightly  projecting  wings  adorned  with  Corinthian 
attached  columns,  and  has  also  an  elaborately  finished 
flank  to  Stafford  Street.  It  measures  125  feet  in  length 
and  78  feet  in  width  ;  includes,  over  a  vestibule  and 
corridor,  a  large  congregational  hall ;  is  fitted  with  low- 
backed  seats,  open  at  the  ends  ;  and  has  a  platform, 
instead  of  a  pulpit,  in  an  apse  with  semi-dome  roof, 
supported  by  six  pillars  of  polished  Peterhead  syenite. 
In  1882  a  spire  was  added,  rising  from  the  SW  corner 
of  the  building,  where  from  the  level  of  the  church  roof 
the  campanile  springs  as  a  plain  square  tower,  buttressed 
at  the  corners,  and  pierced  with  one  small  window  near 
the  base,  to  a  height  of  68  feet.  Here  the  buttresses  are 
finished  off  with  scrolls,  while  round  the  tower  is  carried 
a  deep  frieze  enriched  with  festoon  ornaments.  Over 
the  tower  rises  the  belfry,  sho^ving  double  pilasters  at 
each  corner,  and  having  each  side  divided  by  Corinthian 
pillars  into  three-arched  openings.  Then  comes  another 
frieze  and  cornice,  which  supports  the  lantern  forming 
the  crowning  stage  of  the  structure.  The  angles  of  the 
octagonal  lantern  are  filled  with  vases,  each  of  the  eight 
sides  presents  a  round-headed  arch,  and  the  pp-amidal 
top  terminates  in  a  small  ornamental  finial  at  the  height 
of  185  feet  from  the  ground.  There  has  been  much  dis- 
cussion as  to  the  harmony  of  the  spire  with  the  building. 
— St  John's  Church  stands  at  the  E  end  of  Johnston 
Terrace,  close  by  what  in  old  times  was  the  "West  Bow 
Port,  and  was  erected  in  1847,  after  designs  by  Robert 
Harailton,  in  a  mixed  style  of  Earl}'  Gothic,  with  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  pleasing  embellishment.  It  presents 
its  main  front,  with  a  moderate  elevation,  to  the  junction 
of  Lawnmarket  and  Johnston  Terrace,  nearly  opposite 
Victoria  Hall  ;  rests  its  rear  front  on  a  lofty  substruction 
facing  Victoria  Street,  nearly  opposite  St  John's  Esta- 
blished Church  ;  and  is  notable  for  the  ministry  in  it  of 
Dr  Guthrie  and  Dr  Hauna. — St  Luke's  Church  stands 
behind  the  house-line  of  Queen  Street ;  is  entered  by  a 
lobby  thence  ;  and  has,  on  the  house-line,  a  factitious 
front,  in  the  Tudor  style,  with  two  crocheted  turrets. 

St  Mary's  Church  is  at  the  N  corner  of  Albany  Street 
and  Broughton  Street,  superseding  a  previous  edifice  in 
Barony  Street,  and  was  erected  in  1859-61,  after  designsby 
J.  T.  Rochead,  at  a  cost  of  about£13,000.  It  is  in  a  mixed 
style  of  Third  Pointed  and  Tudor;  exhibitssome  fine  work, 
with  occasionally  an  excess  of  detail ;  and  has  a  richly 
carved  steeple  180  feet  high. — St  Paul's  Church  stands 
in  St  Leonard's  Street,  nearly  opposite  the  end  of  Ran- 
keillor  Street.  It  was  built  before  the  Disruption,  and 
has  a  plain  Roman  front,  surmounted  by  a  quadrangular 
belfry,  each  face  of  which  is  pierced  with  a  wide  arch. — 
St  Stephen's  Church  is  in  Wemyss  Place,  and  was  formed 
out  of  the  upper  parts  of  large  private  houses  ;  and 
shows  lofty  windows,  surmounted  by  a  broad  entablature. 
— Stockbridge  church,  adjacent  to  the  foot  of  Dean 
Street,  in  Stockbridge,  was  erected  in  1867  out  of  the 
materials  of  St  George's  Church  in  Lothian  Road,  and  is 


EDINBURGH 

mainly  an  exact  reproduction  of  that  church,  originally 
built  after  a  design  by  Mr  Cousin.  It  is  in  the  Anglo- 
Norman  style,  with  some  mimic  arcade  decorations  and 
two  carved  turrets,  and  acquired  much  heaviness  of  as- 
pect by  the  carrying  up  of  its  original  front  into  a  broad 
pyramidally-roofed  tower. — Tolbooth  Church  stands 
behind  the  N  side  of  St  Andrew  Square,  with  rear  and 
flank  exposure  to  the  view  from  Queen  Street,  being 
entered  by  a  lobby  through  a  house  from  St  Andrew 
Square.  It  was  erected  in  1857,  and  is  in  the  Gothic 
style,  with  large  end  window  and  roof-lights. — Tron 
Church  was  formerly  in  a  close  off  High  Street,  quite 
concealed  from  general  view,  but  now  occupies  an  ornate 
building  in  Chambers  Street,  opposite  the  Industrial 
Museum.  — Viewforth  Church  stands  at  the  end  of  West 
Gilmore  Place,  and  was  built  in  1871-72,  after  designs  by 
Pilkington  &  Bell,  at  a  cost  of  about  £4500.  It  is  in  the 
Geometric-Gothic  style ;  includes  a  sunk  story,  with 
school-room  and  vestry  ;  and  has  an  ornate  front,  with 
large  central  gable,  smaller  side  gable,  and  a  corner 
tower  120  feet  high. — West  Port  church  stands  in  West 
Port,  was  erected  as  the  result  of  Dr  Chalmers'  personal 
territorial  mission  work,  and  is  in  the  Gothic  style. 

United  Presbyterian  Churches. — Argyle  Place  church 
is  cruciform  in  plan,  presenting  a  gabled  front  to  Car- 
lung  Place,  through  which  is  the  principal  entrance  by 
a  projecting  porch,  with  the  doorway  recessed  and 
flanked  on  both  sides  by  two  engaged  columns,  sup- 
porting a  finely  carved  arch  pediment,  flanked  on  the 
NW  angle  with  a  square  tower,  above  which  a  graceful 
spire  rises  to  a  height  of  150  feet  from  the  ground  ;  the 
whole  is  in  Pointed  Gothic  style,  and  cost  about  £5000. 
— Arthur  Street  church  belonged  originally  to  Baptists  ; 
was  purchased  in  1833,  by  a  Relief  congregation,  for 
£2100 ;  and  became  United  Presbyterian  at  the  imion 
of  the  Relief  and  the  United  Secession. — Blackfriars 
Street  church  stands  in  Blackfriars  Street,  superseded 
a  previous  place  of  worship  occupied  as  a  mission 
church,  was  erected  in  1871  at  the  rebuilding  of  the 
Blackfriars  Sh'eet  portion  of  the  city  improvements, 
and  is  a  neat  edifice. — Bread  Street  church  was  built  in 
1831,  and  has  a  Roman  front  with  pilasters  and 
pediment. — Bristo  Street  church  is  in  a  court  off 
Bristo  and  Marshall  Streets,  and  is  on  the  site  of 
the  oldest  dissenting  Presbyterian  church  in  Edin- 
burgh. It  was  built  in  1802  at  a  cost  of  £4084, 
enlarged  at  a  cost  of  £1515,  interiorly  renovated  in 
1872  at  a  cost  of  about  £1300  ;  and  is  neat  and  very 
spacious. — Broughton  Place  church  stands  across  the  E 
end  of  Broughton  Place  ;  was  built  in  1821  at  a  cost  of 
£7095,  and'repaired  and  altered  in  1853  and  1870  each 
time  at  a  cost  of  about  £2000 ;  has  a  Roman  front,  with 
elegant  tetrastyle  Doric  portico  ;  and  is  notable  for  the 
ministry  of  the  Rev.  Dr  John  Brown. — Canongate 
church  superseded  a  previous  place  of  worship  used 
as  a  mission  church,  was  built  in  1869  at  a  cost  of 
£3200,  and  is  in  the  Early  Pointed  style.— College 
Street  church  is  in  South  College  Street,  was  re- 
built in  1857,  has  a  front  in  the  Florentine  style,  and  is 
roofed  and  lighted  in  the  manner  of  a  Gothic  cleres- 
tory.—Colston  Street  church  is  in  a  new  street  of  that 
name  off  Leith  Walk,  and  is  neat  and  elegant.— Dr 
Davidson  Memorial  Church  stands  in  Eyre  Place,  Canon- 
mills,  and  is  occupied  by  the  congi-egation  which  for- 
merly worshipped  in  the  Synod  Hall,  Queen  Street. — 
Dairy  Road  or  Haymarket  church,  a  short  distance  SW 
of  Haymarket  station,  superseded  an  iron  structure  of 
1871,  destroyed  by  a  storm  in  Oct.  1874;  was  erected 
in  1875  at  a  cost  of  about  £5000  ;  includes  a  basement 
tower,  intended  to  be  surmounted  by  a  spire  ;  is  in  the 
Gothic  Romanesque  style,  with  joint  buttresses  rising 
to  a  height  of  about  100  feet ;  and  contains  840  sittings. 
—Dean"  Street  church  stands  in  Stockbridge,  and  was 
built  in  1828  at  a  cost  of  £2100.— Hope  Park  church 
is  adjacent  to  the  E  end  of  the  Meadows,  in  the 
near  vicinity  of  the  Newington  Established  and  Free 
churches ;  superseded  a  previous  church  of  1793  in 
Potterrow  ;  was  erected  in  1867  ;  and  is  a  handsome 
edifice.— Infirmary  Street  church  was   built  in  1822, 

519 


EDINBURGH 

belonged  for  a  time  to  the  protesting  Antiburgliers, 
was  noted  for  the  ministry  of  Rev.  Dr  Paxton,  came 
into  its  present  connection  in  1S56,  and  is  adorned  in 
front  with  Doric  pilasters. — James  Place  church  was 
built  in  1800  at  a  cost  of  £3600,  and  repaired  in  1828 
at  a  cost  of  £650  ;  and  is  plain  but  spacious. —Lauriston 
Place  church  was  built  in  1859,  is  a  handsome  Gothic 
structure,  a  large  congregational  hall  being  recently 
added  to  its  western  side. — London  Road  church  stands 
at  the  corner  of  London  Road  and  Easter  Road  ;  was 
erected  in  1874-75  ;  is  in  the  Pointed  style,  with  a  tower 
and  spire  160  feet  in  height ;  and  contains  950  sittings. 
— Lothian  Road  church  was  built  in  1831,  and  has  an 
Italian  front  of  three  stories,  with  recessed  centre,  rusti- 
cated basement,  and  surmounting  balustrade. — Mor- 
ningside  church  has  been  already  noticed. — Newington 
church  stands  at  the  corner  of  Grange  Road  and  Cause- 
wayside  ;  superseded  a  previous  church  in  Duncan 
Street,  purchased  in  1847  from  Baptists ;  was  erected 
in  1862-63 ;  and  is  in  the  Early  Pointed  style,  Avith  a 
tower. — Nicolson  Street  church  stands  near  the  S  end 
of  Nicolson  Street ;  was  built  in  1819  at  a  cost  of 
£6000  ;  has  a  broad  Gothic  front,  with  tuiTet  pinnacles 
90  feet  high  ;  and  is  notable  for  the  ministry  of  the 
Rev.  Dr  John  Jamieson,  author  of  the  Scottish  Dic- 
tionary and  of  various  theological  works. — North  Rich- 
mond Street  church  is  small  and  neat. — Palmerston 
Place  church  stands  on  the  SW  side  of  the  street,  a 
little  SW  of  Coates  Crescent ;  was  erected  in  1873-75 
at  a  cost  of  about  £13,000  ;  is  in  classic  Italian  style, 
mth  a  hexastyle  portico  of  circular-headed  arches,  and 
\\-ith  two  massive  iianking  towers  about  100  feet  high  ; 
and  contains  about  1100  sittings. — Portsburgh  church, 
in  the  Vennel,  was  built  in  1828  at  a  cost  of  £1927. 
The  congregation  removed  in  1881  to  a  new  church  in 
Gilmore  Place,  costing  £4600. — Rose  Street  church  was 
rebuilt  in  1830  at  a  cost  of  £3042,  and  presents  to  the 
street  the  greater  side  of  an  oblong,  in  Roman  architec- 
ture, with  pilasters  and  balustrades. — Rosehall  church 
is  on  the  E  side  of  Dalkeith  Road,  adjoining  Rosehall 
Terrace  ;  is  small  and  ornate  in  appearance  ;  has  two  side 
entrances,  arched  and  supported  by  pUastei's  ;  recessed 
over  each  of  these  are  square  towers,  with  open  stone- 
work lanterns  at  top  ;  has  a  font  of  Caen  stone  like  that 
of  St  Giles'  ;  behind  is  a  large  congregational  hall. 

Episco2}alian  Churches. — St  Jlary's  Cathedral  Church 
for  the  diocese  of  Edinburgh  stands  on  the  E  side  of 
Palmerston  Place,  in  a  direct  line  with  Melville  Street. 
It  originated  in  a  bequest  by  the  Misses  Walker,  who 
OAvned  the  estate  of  Coates,  comprising  the  sites  of  Coates 
Crescent,  Walker  Street,  Melville  Street,  and  several 
other  thoroughfares  in  West  End,  and  yielding  a  revenue 
of  £20,000,  which  represents  a  capital  of  about  £400,000. 
The  Avliole  was  bequeathed  for  erecting  and  endowing  a 
cathedral,  and  for  purposes  connected  with  it,  so  far  as 
the  funds  would  allow,  and  they  became  available  in 
1870.  The  work  was  begun  in  1874  from  designs  by 
Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  after  whose  death,  in  March  1878,  the 
building  was  carried  on  and  completed  by  his  son,  Mr 
John  Oldrid  Scott,  and  formally  consecrated  and  opened 
in  Oct.  1879.  The  cathedral  is  cruciform  in  ])lan,  with 
lofty  central  tower  and  spire ;  the  nave,  choir,  and 
transepts  are  respectively  seven,  four,  and  two  bays 
in  length  ;  each  of  the  four  arms  have  aisles  on  both 
sides,  and  by  the  aixangement  of  the  reredos  the  choir 
aisles  are  connected  at  the  E  end.  At  the  W  end  the 
nave  aisles  are  terminated  by  two  steeples ;  but  the 
funds  were  not  available  for  carrying  these  above  the 
roof-level  of  the  nave,  the  cathedral  being  thus  deprived 
of  a  most  interesting  external  feature.  The  style  is  that 
which  preceded  the  Early  Pointed,  and  is  partly  founded 
on  that  of  Holyrood  and  Jedburgh  Abbeys,  and  others  of 
the  finest  churches  in  Scotland.  The  choir,  crossings, 
and  aisles  are  groined  in  stone,  the  nave  and  trausejits 
in  wood.  The  four  fa9adcs  are  varied  in  designs :  the 
E  end  has  three  lancets  commencing  at  the  height  of 
15  feet,  above  is  a  range  of  niches  containing  figures 
about  life  size,  while  over  these  is  an  ornate  design  of  a 
seated  figure  of  our  Lord  in  glory,  a  series  of  anguls  being 
520 


EDINBURGH 

grouped  around  ;  the  fronts  of  the  N  and  S  transepts 
possess  wheel  windows  ;  the  AV  front  is  occupied  by  a 
great  arch,  within  which  are  four  lancet  Avindows  of 
equal  size  and  design,  a  beautiful  rose  window  being 
above  these.  In  this  front  is  the  main  entrance,  AA-ith 
recessed  arch  and  elaborate  carving ;  the  doorway  is 
double,  being  divided  by  a  central  pier,  on  which  rests 
a  sculptured  tympanum.  The  total  external  length  is 
262  feet ;  width  across  transepts,  132i  feet ;  across  nave 
and  aisles,  75  feet ;  internal  height  of  nave,  71  feet ; 
choir,  60  feet ;  of  ridge  of  roof  externally,  84  feet ; 
diameter  of  central  tower,  42  feet ;  height  of  spire,  225 
feet.  Internally  the  whole  is  of  rich  design — the  pave- 
ment of  the  choir  being  of  Sicilian  marble  and  tiles ; 
the  wooden  fittings,  stalls,  bishop's  throne,  etc. ,  being  of 
walnut  wood.  In  1880  there  was  added  a  reredos  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  chancel,  of  reddish-veined  alabaster 
A\'ith  enrichments  of  variously  coloured  marbles,  and 
sculptures  in  white  Carrara — the  most  important  of  the 
latter  being  a  relievo  of  the  Crucifixion  by  Miss  Grant. 
The  structure  is  approached  by  steps  from  the  level  of 
the  chancel  floor  ;  presents  a  central  elevation  and  two 
receding  wings.  The  lower  stage  consists  of  a  plain 
base  5  feet  high,  with  a  row  of  medallions,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  carved  cornice.  Over  this  rises  upon  two 
pairs  of  marble  shafts  a  wide  pointed  arch,  decorated 
with  beautiful  carving,  and  carrying  a  crocheted  gablet 
with  ornamental  cross  by  way  of  finial ;  the  gablet  sup- 
ports four  angelic  figures,  and  its  tympanum  is  pierced 
by  a  six-leaved  opening.  Within  and  behind  this  arch 
is  a  second,  supported  at  either  side  by  four  columns  of 
pinkish  Jura  marble.  Behind  this  again  comes  an 
arcade  of  three  openings,  resting  on  four  octagonal 
columns  of  a  darker  shade,  forming  a  screen  to  the 
central  relievo  of  the  Crucifixion,  which  entirely  fills 
the  three  openings.  Two  statues  occupy  the  flanking 
wings  of  the  reredos — on  one  side  St  Margaret  of  Scot- 
land, on  the  other  St  Columba  bearing  the  crosier  of  St 
Fillan.  (See  History  of  the  Erection  of  the  Cathedral 
Church  of  St  Mary,  Edinb.  1879.) 

St  Paul's  Church,  on  the  N  side  of  the  E  end  of  York 
Place,  was  previously  the  bishop's  church  or  quasi- 
cathedral,  and  was  erected  in  1816-18,  after  designs  by 
Archibald  Elliot,  at  a  cost  of  about  £12,000.  It  consists 
of  nave  and  aisles,  standing  E  and  W,  and  measuring  123 
feet  by  73,  and  is  an  elegant  edifice  in  the  later  Pointed 
style,  with  some  intermixture  of  Tudor.  Rich  mould- 
ings, fine  tracery,  crocheted  pinnacles,  and  beautiful 
Gothic  balustrades  adorn  the  street  side  and  the  two 
ends ;  a  grand  window  is  in  the  E,  re-decorated  with 
painted  glass  in  1850 ;  and  four  octagonal  turrets, 
almost  wide  and  high  enough  to  be  called  towers,  all  of 
one  pattern,  rise  from  the  four  angles  of  the  inner  walls, 
and  are  cut  throughout  their  upper  parts  into  open 
ornate  stone-work.  The  organ  was  originally  built  in 
1774  by  Schnetzler  for  the  church  which  preceded  the 
present,  and  underwent,  from  time  to  time,  such  improve- 
ments as  won  for  it  the  reputation  of  being  the  finest 
organ  in  Scotland.  It  underwent  further  improvement 
in  1870  ;  measures  27  feet  in  length  and  30  in  height; 
and  has  forty  stops,  besides  eight  couplers.  This  church 
is  notable  also  for  the  ministry  in  it  of  the  Rev.  Archi- 
bald Alison,  author  of  Essays  on  Taste,  who  died 
in  1839. 

St  John's  Church  stands  at  the  corner  of  Princes 
Street  and  Lothian  Road,  and  was  erected  in  1818,  after 
designs  by  W.  Burn,  at  a  cost  of  £15,000.  It  is  an  ob- 
long edifice,  with  nave  and  aisles,  113  feet  long  and  62 
wide,  and  is  in  a  florid  Gothic  style,  with  details  copied 
from  St  George's  Chapel  at  Windsor.  It  is  adorned  on  the 
sides  with  beautiful  windows,  symmetrical  buttresses, 
finely  crocheted  pinnacles,  and  large  niches  with  richly- 
carved  brackets  and  canopies  ;  is  surmounted  at  the  W 
end  by  a  square  well-proportioned  tower,  pierced  through 
i\iG  liascmeiit  witli  a  noble  doorway,  relieved  in  its  sides 
by  beautiful  windows,  and  crowned,  at  the  height  of 
120  feet,  with  ornate  pinnacles  ;  rests  along  the  S  side 
on  ornamental  burial-vaults,  with  a  terrace  and  other 
burial-vaults  to  the  S  ;  and  ha.-i  attached  to  its  E  end  a 


EDINBURGH 

large  low  vestry,  in  a  style  harmonious  with  the  main 
building.  The  pillars  and  arches  of  the  interior  are 
light  and  symmetrical ;  the  middle  roof  is  ornamented 
mth  mouldings  and  a  profusion  of  decorations  ;  the 
great  E  window  is  30  feet  high,  and  exhibits  figures  of 
the  twelve  apostles  by  Eggiugtou,  of  Birmingham  ;  the 
reredos  is  a  splendid  erection  of  1871,  after  designs  by 
Peddie  &  Kinnear ;  and  the  organ  is  a  very  fine  instru- 
ment. An  addition  of  a  new  chancel  at  the  E  end  was 
made  in  18S2.  This  erection  has  a  length  of  25  feet 
and  a  width  of  21  feet,  having  large  traceried  windows 
in  each  of  its  sides  ;  is  carried  to  the  full  height  of  the 
nave  ;  and  finishes  on  the  top  with  ornamental  parapet 
and  pinnacles.  A  new  entrance  door  in  the  side  next 
Princes  Street  gives  access  to  the  church  and  to  the 
choir  vestry  below  the  chancel.  The  total  cost  of  those 
later  alterations  was  about  £2600.  Dean  Ramsay,  the 
author  of  Reminiscences  of  Scottish  Life  and  Character, 
Avas  long  incumbent  of  St  John's.  A  school-chapel,  con- 
nected with  St  John's,  stands  in  Earl  Grey  Street ;  was 
built  in  1852,  and  enlarged  in  1862  ;  and  is  a  plain 
cruciform  structure,  used  as  a  school  on  work-days, 
and  as  a  chapel  on  Sabbaths. 

Trinity  Church  is  at  the  NW  end  of  Dean  Bridge, 
and  is  noticed  in  the  paragraph  on  Dean. — St  George's 
Church  stands  on  the  S  side  of  York  Place,  was  built 
in  1794  after  designs  by  Robert  Adam,  and  is  a  quaint- 
looking  edifice,  in  a  mbced  style  of  Gothic  and 
Grecian. — All  Saints'  Church,  in  Brougham  Street,  was 
erected  in  1867,  after  designs  by  R.  Anderson,  at  a  cost 
of  about  £4000  ;  consists  of  nave,  aisles,  transepts,  and 
octagonally-ended  chancel ;  is  surmounted,  at  the  SW 
comer  of  the  nave,  by  a  tower  110  feet  high,  ^vitli 
richl}--moulded  belfry  stage  and  saddle-backed  roof  ;  and 
in  1875-76,  at  a  cost  of  about  £1500,  underwent  much 
alteration  and  improvement.  It  has  a  school  attached, 
entering^  also  from  Glen  Street. — St  Andrew's  Church 
stands  in  the  South  Back  of  Canongate,  opposite  St 
John  Street ;  was  built  in  1857  ;  and  is  a  small  oblong 
edifice  of  unpolished  stone  in  the  Saxon  style,  A\-ith  an 
apse  and  a  low  square  tower. — St  Columba's  Church, 
in  Johnston  Terrace,  is  a  Gothic  building,  with  only 
one  flank  exposed  to  full  view ;  and  has,  at  its  W  end, 
a  low  square  battlemented  tower. — St  James'  Church 
stands  on  the  N  side  of  the  W  end  of  Broughton  Place, 
and  is  a  large  plain  building,  uniform  vtith  the  con- 
tiguous range  of  private  houses. — St  Peter's  Church 
is  in  Lutton  Place.  It  is  a  plain,  high-roofed  Gothic- 
windowed  edifice  of  1858,  aud  has  a  tower  and  spire  of 
later  date,  too  large  and  lofty  to  harmonise  v.'ith  its  o^vn 
bulk. — St  Paul's  Church,  in  Carrubber's  Close,  already 
referred  to,  was  built  by  the  Jacobites  immediately 
after  the  Revolution.  It  was  cleared  away  on  the  for- 
mation of  Jeffrey  Street,  and  a  new  Gothic  edifice  is 
being  erected  in  its  place  in  the  new  street. — Christ 
Church  Scottish  Episcopalian  Church  stands  at  Mor- 
ningside,  and  has  been  already  noticed. 

St  Thomas'  English  Episcopalian  Church  stands 
compact  with  private  houses  on  the  E  and  the  AV ; 
presents  a  S  front  to  Caledonian  Station  ;  has  a  N  front 
in  the  recess-angle  facing  the  point  where  Princes 
Street,  Hope  Street,  Queensferry  Street,  and  Maitland 
Street  meet ;  and  is  adorned  there,  in  the  Norman 
style,  with  a  beautiful  porch,  some  exquisite  mimic 
arcade-work,  and  a  profusion  of  chevron  ornaments. — 
Christ  Church  English  Episcopalian  Church  stands  in 
St  Vincent  Street,  opposite  St  Stephen's  Established 
Church  ;  was  built  in  1856  ;  is  a  small  Gothic  edifice, 
■with  nave,  chancel,  N  aisle,  and  spirelet ;  and  looks  both 
dwarfish  and  ambitious  in  comparison  with  the  con- 
fronting massive  form  of  St  Stephen's. 

Other  Churches.  — The  United  Original  Secession 
Church  stands  at  the  W  end  of  Victoria  Terrace  ;  was 
built  in  1866  at  a  cost  of  about  £1700  ;  is  in  the 
Byzantine  style,  with  an  ornamented  front  gable  ;  and 
adjoins  the  old  building  in  West  Bow  known  as  Major 
Weir's  house,  now  converted  into  a  vestry  and  other 
offices  in  connection  with  the  church. 

Augustine  Independent  Church  faces  the  E  side  of 


EDINBURGH 

George  IV.  Bridge,  but  rises  from  Merchant  Street  at 
30  feet  lower  level.  It  superseded  a  previous  church  in 
Argyle  Square  on  ground  now  occupied  by  the  Indus- 
trial Museum,  and  was  erected  in  1859-61,  after  designs  by 
Hay,  of  Liverpool,  at  a  cost  of  about  £15,000.  It  includes 
two  stories  below  the  level  of  George  IV.  Bridge,  dis- 
posed in  congregational  hall,  school-rooms,  and  other 
apartments ;  is  in  the  Byzantine  style,  with  three 
recessed  arched  doorways,  and  a  surmounting  circular 
headed  window  16  feet  high  ;  and  is  surmounted,  on 
the  front,  with  a  tower  and  minaret  of  pagoda-like 
appearance,  rising  to  the  height  of  120  feet. — Albany 
Street  Independent  chapel  stands  at  the  SE  corner  of 
Albany  Street  and  Broughton  Street ;  was  built  in 
1816  at  a  cost  of  £4009,  and  improved  in  1867  at  a  cost 
of  more  than  £2000 ;  and  presents  an  ornamental  flank  to 
Albany  Street  and  an  end  front  in  mixed  Roman  style, 
with  entrance  doorway,  to  Broughton  Street. — Cale- 
donian Road  or  Dairy  Independent  chapel  was  built  in 
1S72,  after  designs  by  A.  Heron,  at  a  cost  of  more  than 
£3000,  and  is  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  a  belfry  spire 
100  feet  high. — Hope  Park  Independent  chapel  stands 
at  Hope  Park  Terrace  ;  was  erected  in  1875-76  at  a  cost 
of  about  £4000 ;  serves  in  lieu  of  Richmond  Place  chapel, 
sold  to  the  Pleasance  Free  church  congregation ;  is  in  the 
Romanesque  style  ;  and  contains  650  sittings. — Rich- 
mond Independent  chapel  is  a  plain  building,  formerly 
used  as  a  school ;  stands  in  a  recess  ofi"  East  Preston 
Street ;  and  is  now  almost  shut  out  of  view  from  the 
street  by  a  range  of  houses. 

The  Brighton  Street  Evangelical  Union  chapel  blocks 
the  head  of  Brighton  Street,  off  the  N  side  of  Lothian 
Street ;  was  originally  a  Relief  church  ;  and  has  a 
Roman  front  of  curved  contour,  with  pilasters  and 
pediment. — Buccleuch  Evangelical  Union  chapel  stands 
in  West  Crosscauseway,  was  erected  in  1874  at  a  cost 
of  £2500,  is  a  neat  edifice  with  a  Gothic  front,  and 
contains  550  sittings.  A  similar  building  of  the  same 
denomination  is  in  Fountainbridge. 

Dublin  Street  Baptist  chapel  was  built  in  1858,  and 
is  a  handsome  Gothic  edifice,  with  a  double  transept 
and  a  spirelet. — Charlotte  Street  Baptist  chapel,  at  the 
corner  of  West  Rose  Street  and  Charlotte  Street,  was 
originally  Episcopalian  ;  went  by  sale  to  Baptists  ;  has 
a  neat  Roman  front ;  and  is  notable  for  the  ministry  of 
Christopher  Anderson,  the  author  of  several  well- 
known  works. — Duncan  Street  Baptist  chapel  is  in 
KeAvington  ;  was  originally  Baptist ;  went  by  sale,  in 
1847,  to  the  United  Secession  ;  returned  by  re-sale,  in 
1863,  to  Baptists ;  and  is  a  plain,  but  pleasant  edifice. 
— Bristo  Place  Baptist  chapel  has  a  neat  Roman  front. 
— Marshall  Street  Baptist  chapel  is  a  new  and  neat 
building. — The  Glassite  chapel  in  Broughton  is  very 
plain. 

The  Catholic  Apostolic  church  stands  at  the  N  comer 
of  Broughton  Street  and  East  London  Street,  and  was 
mainly  built  in  1874-76  at  a  cost  of  about  £17,000.  It 
is  in  the  later  Norman  style,  after  designs  by  M.  Ander- 
son ;  measures  200  feet  in  length,  45  in  height  to  the 
wall  head,  64  to  the  apex  of  the  roof  vault ;  comprises 
a  nave  100  feet  long  and  45  wide,  a  chancel  61^ 
feet  long  and  23  wide,  an  apse  terminating  the 
chancel  and  containing  an  altar,  an  Episcopal  throne 
and  clerical  stalls,  and  a  circular  baptistry  28  feet  in 
diameter  ;  and  has  a  W  end  tower  measuring  35  feet  on 
each  side,  a  grand  entrance  porch  through  the  base  of 
that  tower,  an  arcaded  passage  from  the  S  side  of  the 
entrance  porch  to  the  baptistry,  three  arched  openings 
in  the  division-line  between  the  nave  and  the  cnancel, 
and  four  massive,  square,  spired  turrets  at  the  corners 
of  the  nave. 

The  Wesleyan  Methodist  chapel  stands  at  the  SW 
corner  of  Nicolson  Square  ;  has  a  handsome  Roman 
front,  with  basement  arcade  and  crowning  balustrade  ; 
and  was  interiorly  redecorated  in  1872. — The  Primitive 
.Methodist  chapel  stands  in  Victoria  Terrace  ;  was  built 
in  1866,  after  designs  by  Paterson  k  Shiells,  at  a  cost  of 
about  £1300;  and  is  in  simple  Italian  Gothic  style,  with 
a  canopied  bell-turret.— A  Methodist  chapel  is  also  at 

521 


EDINBURGH 

Stock  bridge.  —  The  Unitarian  chapel  stands  in  Castle 
Terrace,  was  built  in  1835,  and  has  a  Roman  Corin- 
thian front,  a  fine  interior,  and  a  good  organ. 

St  Mary's  Roman  Catholic  church  or  Pro-Cathedral 
is  at  the  head  of  Broughton  Street,  on  the  ascent 
toward  St  James  Place  ;  was  erected  in  1813,  after 
designs  by  Gillespie  Graham,  at  a  cost  of  £8000  ;  shows 
a  handsome  Gothic  front  with  pinnacles  70  feet  high  ; 
measures  exteriorly  110  feet  by  57  ;  and  has  a  fine 
organ  and  a  splendid  altar-piece. — St  Patrick's  Roman 
Catholic  church  is  at  the  E  end  of  Cowgate  ;  was  built 
in  1771-74  at  a  cost  of  £7000  ;  belonged  originally 
to  Episcopalians,  and  was  long  occupied  by  Presby- 
terians ;  is  a  large  oblong  edifice  in  the  Italian  style,  Avith 
a  bell  tower ;  and  contains  wall  paintings  by  Runciman. 
— The  original  St  Patrick's  Roman  Catholic  church 
stands  at  the  corner  of  Lothian  Street  and  Bristo  Place  ; 
was  built  in  1839,  and  occupied  as  a  church  till  about 
1856,  being  then  transmuted  into  St  Mary's  Roman 
Catholic  school ;  and  has  a  handsome  pinnacled  Gothic 
front. — The  Roman  Catholic  church  of  the  Sacred 
Heart  in  Lauriston  Street  was  built  in  1859-60,  and  has 
an  Italian  front  and  cupola  lights. — St  Margaret's  Roman 
Catholic  convent,  already  referred  to,  has  attached  to 
it  an  elegant  chapel  in  the  Saxon  style,  after  designs  by 
A.  W.  Pugin. — St  Catherine's  Roman  Catholic  convent 
stands  in  Lauriston  Gardens,  adjacent  to  Chalmers' 
Hospital ;  was  built  in  1861  ;  and  is  in  the  Collegiate 
style. 

Blackfriars'  Monastery  stood  on  or  near  the  site  of  the 
old  High  School,  having  gardens  extending  to  Cowgate, 
Pleasance,  and  Potterrow.  It  was  founded  in  1230  by 
Alexander  II.,  and  became  so  frequent  a  residence  of 
its  founder,  as  to  be  called  the  King's  Mansion.  It 
had  a  large  cruciform  church,  with  central  tower  and 
lofty  spire,  which  suffered  partial  destruction  by  fire 
in  1558,  and  total  demolition  at  the  hands  of  the 
Reformers  of  1558,  the  lands  belonging  to  it  being 
given  by  the  Crown  to  build  and  endow  Trinity  Hospital. 
— Greyfriars'  Monastery  has  already  been  incidentally 
noticed  in  our  account  of  Greyfriars'  churches. — The 
Carmelite  Monastery  stood  at  the  NE  base  of  Calton 
Hill,  was  erected  in  1526,  and  disappeared  at  the 
Reformation.  —  St  Anthony's  Chapel  and  Hermitage 
stood  on  a  precipitous  knoll,  near  the  base  of  the 
N  side  of  Arthur's  Seat;  were  founded  in  1435  by  Sir 
Robert  Logan  of  Restalrig ;  and  belonged  to  a  preceptory 
of  St  Anthony  at  Leith.  The  chapel  stood  9  yards  dis- 
tant from  the  hermitage ;  was  a  Gothic  edifice  43  feet 
long,  18  broad,  and  18  Mgh,  with  a  square  tower  fully 
broader  than  itself  and  about  40  feet  high  ;  and  con- 
tinued to  stand,  in  a  roofless  state,  till  about  the  middle 
of  last  centurj'.  The  hermitage  was  16  feet  long,  12 
broad,  and  8  high  ;  and  a  fragment  of  it,  with  plain 
corbels,  and  a  piece  of  groined  roof,  still  exists.  A  clear 
cool  spring,  called  St  Anthony's  Well,  celebrated  in  the 
old  song,  0  waly,  waly  up  yon  bank,  is  at  the  foot  of 
the  rock  on  which  the  fragment  stands.  A  number  of 
other  ancient  ecclesiastical  edifices,  chiefly  small  chapels, 
stood  in  various  parts  of  the  city  and  the  suburbs,  but 
either  were  not  of  any  note  or  have  already  been  in- 
cidentally noticed. 

Cemeteries. — The  first  great  cemetery  of  Edinburgh 
has  already  been  incidentally  noticed  in  our  account  of 
Parliament  Square,  and  lay  around  St  Giles'  Church 
extending  down  the  slope  toward  Cowgate.  It  re- 
ceived the  remains  of  John  Knox  in  1572 ;  became 
completely  secularised  before  1607  ;  was  then,  or  soon 
afterwards,  entirely  effaced ;  and  yielded  up  its  best 
known  relic  in  1800,  in  the  form  of  a  curiously  sculp- 
tured stone,  found  at  the  head  of  Forrester's  Wynd, 
supposed  to  have  been  part  of  a  decorated  gateway  at 
the  cemetery's  western  boundary,  and  showing  a  group 
of  figures  similar  to  those  in  Holbein's  Dance  of  Death. 
— Greyfriars'  Cemetery  has  already  been  mentioned  in 
our  account  of  Greyfriars'  churches,  and  succeeded  St 
Giles'  as  the  chief  burial-place  for  the  city.  It  became, 
and  long  continued,  so  overcrowded  as  to  give  cause  for 
alarm  ;  but  it  was  subsequently  relieved  from  pressure, 
522 


EDINBURGH 

and  adorned  with  walks  and  shrubbery.  It  commands 
picturesque  views  of  the  S  face  of  the  Old  Town  and 
the  Castle  rock ;  exhibits  a  striking  mixture  of  monu- 
ments, curious  and  beautiful,  old  and  recent ;  and  has, 
on  its  enclosure  walls,  a  number  of  richly  sculptured 
monumental  stones,  chiefly  of  the  16th  and  the  17th 
centuries.  A  spot  at  its  E  wall,  where  lie  the  remains 
of  most  of  the  martjTS  of  the  Covenant  who  were 
executed  in  the  Grassmarket,  imparts  a  great  interest 
to  this  churchyard.  Here  are  also  the  remains  of  Regent 
Morton,  George  Buchanan,  George  Heriot,  Alexander 
Henderson,  Sir  George  Mackenzie,  Sir  James  Stewart, 
Principal  Carstares,  Principal  Robertson,  Dr  Pitcairn, 
Sir  John  de  Medina,  Allan  Ramsay,  Colin  Maclaurin, 
Dr  Joseph  Black,  Dr  Hugh  Blair,  Dr  M'Crie,  Lord 
President  Forbes,  Lord  President  Blair,  the  two  Pro- 
fessors Munro,  Dr  Carson,  Patrick  Eraser  Tytler,  and 
many  other  distinguished  men.  (See  Epitaphs  and 
Monumental  Inscriptions  in  Greyfriars'  Cliurcliyard, 
collected  by  J.  Brown,  Edinb.  1867.) 

St  Cuthbert's  and  Canongate  Cemeteries  have  been 
already  noticed.  Several  other  ancient  cemeteries  lay 
within  or  near  the  city,  but  were  neither  large  nor 
notable,  and  are  now  mostly  extinct. 

High  Calton  Cemetery  is  comparativelj'  modern.  It 
was  broken  in  upon  at  the  formation  of  Waterloo  Place, 
from  which  it  is  now  fenced  by  a  lofty  retaining  wall, 
adorned  M-ith  projections,  niches,  pillars,  and  cornice. 
It  is  reached  by  a  flight  of  steps  commencing  at  a 
doorway  in  the  retaining  wall ;  surmounts  on  its  S  side 
a  lofty  cliff  overhanging  North  Back  of  Canongate ; 
is  flanked  on  the  two  other  sides  by  the  old  Post 
Office  and  the  Prison  ;  and  contains  the  mausoleum 
of  David  Hume,  the  metaphj'sician  and  historian,  the 
political  mai'tjTs'  monument,  and  that  of  David  Allan, 
the  Scottish  painter. — Low  Calton  Cemetery  occupies 
part  of  the  slope  between  Regent  Road  and  North  Back 
of  Canongate,  was  formed  by  removal  of  the  tombs 
of  High  Calton  Cemetery,  and  has  many  monumental 
tombstones  of  good  design. — Buccleuch  Cemetery  lies 
round  Buccleuch  Established  church,  is  small  and 
obscure,  and  contains  the  remains  of  the  blind  poet, 
Dr  Blacklock,  and  the  classical  scholar,  Dr  Adam. — 
Warriston  or  Edinburgh  Cemetery  is  on  a  southward 
slope  on  the  N  side  of  the  Water  of  Leith,  600  yards  N 
by  E  of  Canonmills,  and  was  formed,  about  1844,  in  the 
manner  of  an  ultra-mural  ground.  It  is  all  laid  out 
with  much  taste  ;  has  broad  winding  walks,  parten'es, 
and  shrubberies ;  and  commands,  from  some  of  its 
walks,  one  of  the  finest  of  the  northern  views  of  the 
city  and  its  environs.  It  is  entered  by  two  approaches, 
the  one  from  Canonmills  by  a  bridge,  the  other  from 
Inverleith  by  a  road  deflecting  near  the  Botanic  Garden. 
It  contains  an  ornate  range  of  catacombs,  a  handsome 
Gothic  chapel  for  Episcopalian  burial  service,  a  number 
of  beautiful  monuments,  and  the  remains,  among  others, 
of  the  poet  Alexander  Smith,  the  distinguished  physician 
Sir  James  Y.  Simpson,  and  other  eminent  persons. — 
Grange  Cemetery  lies  in  Grange  suburb,  and  was  formed 
subse({uently  to  Warriston  Cemetery.  It  is  large  and 
ornamental,  and  contains  the  remains  of  the  Rev.  Dr 
Chalmers,  Sheriff  Spiers,  Sir  Andrew  Agnew,  Sir  Thomas 
Dick  Lauder,  the  second  Lord  Dunfermline,  Hugh  Miller, 
Rev.  Dr  Robert  Lee,  Dr  Guthrie,  Dr  Duff,  Dr  John  Brown, 
and  many  other  distinguished  persons. — Dean  Ceme- 
tery, a  most  i)icturesque  and  beautiful  place,  is  noticed 
in  the  paragraph  on  Dean. — Rosebank  Cemetery  lies  on 
the  W  side  of  the  N  end  of  Pilrig  Street,  is  modern  and 
ornate,  and  contains,  among  many  interesting  monu- 
ments, a  tombstone  erected  by  Queen  Victoria  to  the 
memory  of  an  attached  servant  who  died  in  1854. — 
Dairy  Cemetery  lies  in  the  western  outskirts,  and  is  of 
similar  date  and  character  to  Rosebank  Cemetery. — 
Echo  Bank  Cemetery,  in  the  Newington  district,  is  well 
laid  out,  and  has  a  railed-off  portion  set  apart  as  the 
Jews'  place  of  burial. — Morningside  Cemetery  lies  in  the 
valley  between  the  southward  slope  of  Morningside  and 
the  rising  slopes  of  Braid  Hills,  beautifully  situated  and 
ornately  laid  out. 


EDINBURGH 

Infirmary  and  otlier Institutions. — The  Royal  Infirmary 
•was  first  contemplated  in  1725,  instituted  on  a  small  scale 
in  1729,  incorporated  by  royal  charter  in  1736,  and 
provided  with  suitable  buildings  in  1738.  It  maintained 
for  a  time  a  serious  struggle  with  various  difliculties, 
but  rose  eventually  to  such  eminence  as  to  become  a 
national  institution  and  a  school  of  medicine  ;  admitted 
to  its  wards  at  length  a  yearly  average  of  more  than  3000 
patients ;  and  aftbrded  courses  of  lectures  and  demonstra- 
tions to  medical  students.  It  long  held  property  worth 
about  £26,000,  exclusive  of  buildings  which  did  not  yield 
any  revenue,  and  also  had  a  very  large  income  from 
voluntary  contributions.  The  principal  building  of  the 
old  Infirmary  was  on  the  S  side  of  Infirmary  Street,  ofi"  the 
E  side  of  South  Bridge,  presenting  a  rear  to  Drummond 
Street,  and  was  erected  in  1738.  It  formed  three  sides 
of  a  quadrangle,  210  feet  long  and  94  wide,  plain,  and 
four  stories  high  in  parts  of  the  main  building  and  in 
the  entire  sides  ;  showing  in  the  centre  front  a  rusti- 
cated basement,  a  surmounting  attached  Ionic  portico, 
a  crowning  attic  terminating  in  a  glazed  turret,  and,  in 
a  niche  above  the  entrance,  a  statue  of  Geoi'ge  II.  in 
Roman  costume.  The  arrangement  generally  was  that 
of  separate  wards  for  male  and  famale  patients,  and  it 
contained  about  400  beds.  Other  extensive  buildings, 
serving  variously  as  fever,  lock,  and  surgical  hospitals — 
one  of  them  the  old  High  School,  another  the  old  hall 
of  the  College  of  Surgeons,  and  a  third  a  neat  structure 
of  1855 — were  in  a  large  area  extending  from  the  prin- 
cipal building  eastward  to  the  back  of  Pleasance,  and 
separated  from  Drummond  Street  by  the  old  city  wall, 
cut  down  to  half  its  original  height  and  topped  with  an 
iron-railing.  These  buUdings  are  all  now,  since  the 
opening  of  the  new  ones,  in  Oct.  1880,  in  disuse  for 
Infirmary  purposes,  with  only  the  exception  of  a  portion 
retained  as  a  fever  hospital  by  the  city  authorities,  and 
refitted  for  this  purpose  at  a  cost  of  about  £3000.  The 
new  buildings  stand  on  and  around  the  site  of  George 
"Watson's  Hospital,  and  are  only  separated  from  the  new 
medical  schools  of  the  University  by  the  fine  avenue 
leading  to  the  Meadows,  which  the  Infirmary  closely 
adjoins,  thus  enjoying  the  great  requisites  of  fresh  air 
and  the  vicinity  of  excellent  pleasure-grounds.  These 
buildings,  the  foundation-stone  of  which  was  laid  with 
great  public  and  masonic  ceremonial  by  the  Prince  of 
Wales  in  the  latter  part  of  1870,  were  erected  partly 
from  the  Infirmary's  own  funds  and  partly  from  a  very 
munificent  special  public  subscription ;  and  they  occupy 
ground  purchased  from  the  governors  of  George  Watson's 
Hospital  for  £43,000  ;  and  are  in  a  modified  variety  of 
the  old  Scottish  style  of  architecture,  after  designs  by 
Mr  Bryce.  They  present  a  main  frontage  to  Lauriston 
fully  100  feet  long,  four  stories  high,  surmounted  by  a 
massive  square  tower  with  round  coi'belled  turrets  at  the 
comers,  and  very  similar  to  Holyrood  Palace  in  appear- 
ance ;  and  include  ranges  of  pavilions  connected  with 
the  main  building  by  corridors,  and  in  similar  architec- 
tui'e  to  the  main  frontage,  also  a  separate  pathological 
house  and  laundry  house,  and  are  all  arranged  and  fitted 
on  the  most  approved  methods  for  ventilation  and 
management.  During  1881  there  were  5288  patients 
admitted,  of  whom  2801  were  dismissed  cured,  and  1651 
relieved.  Of  the  cases  brought  to  a  close  during  the 
year,  480  were  cases  of  infectious  disease,  2113  ordinary 
medical  cases,  and  2659  surgical  cases.  The  daily  aver- 
age of  patients  during  the  year  was  520.  There  was  a 
staff  of  65  nurses  and  36  probationers,  and  the  income 
for  1881  was  £28,474,  17s.  lid.  ;  the  expenditure  (in- 
cluding fever  hospital),  £31,720,  16s.  8d.  —  The  Con- 
valescent Home  of  the  Royal  Infirmary  for  males  was 
formerly  in  Sciennes  House,  Grange,  that  for  females 
in  Preston  Street ;  but  a  number  of  years  ago  both 
were  conjoined,  and  a  large  airy  villa-liko  residence 
erected  for  the  purpose  on  a  slope  at  Corstorphine  Hill, 
■with  large  garden,  and  every  necessary  requisite  for  a 
home  of  the  kind.  During  1881  considerable  improve- 
ments were  efl"ected  in  the  internal  arrangements,  which 
occasioned  an  increase  in  the  extraordinary  expenditure 
of  the  establishment,  while  the  ordinary  expenses  re- 


EDINEURGH 

mained  the  same.  The  number  of  patients  during  the 
same  year  was  704,  being  118  less  than  the  preceding 
year — the  average  period  of  residence  being  22  days. — 
Ravenscroft  Convalescent  Home  for  poor  people,  invalids 
from  disease,  belonging  to  Edinburgh  and  its  neiglibour- 
hood,  has  its  quarters  at  Gilmerton. — The  Royal  In- 
firmary Samaritan  Society,  for  assisting  the  families  of 
Infirmary  patients,  for  giving  clothing  and  other  need- 
ful assistance  to  patients  on  leaving  the  Infirmary, 
procuring  work  for,  and  generally  befriending  and  aiding 
them  as  far  as  possible,  has  a  room  for  carrying  on  its 
work  in  the  Infirmary  itself.  The  number  of  patients 
who  received  pecuniary  or  other  aid  during  1881  for 
themselves  or  their  families  was  178.  The  receipts  in 
1881,  including  a  balance  of  £216,  16s.  6d.  from  pre- 
ceding year,  was  £525,  17s.  3d.,  and  the  expenditure 
£304,  7s.  lid.,  leaving  a  balance  in  favour-  of  the 
society  of  £221,  9s.  4d. — The  Incurables  Longmore 
Hospital  occupies  ground  in  Salisbury  Place,  Newing- 
ton.  Soon  after  the  foundation  of  the  hospital  at 
8  Salisbury  Place  in  1874,  the  association  found  their 
accommodation  insufficient  for  carrying  on  the  work, 
and  setting  themselves  to  remedy  this,  were  enabled, 
shortly  after,  through  the  liberality  of  the  trustees  of 
the  late  Mr  Longmore,  in  voting  a  grant  of  £10,000  for 
the  purpose,  to  purchase  the  adjoining  property.  Tem- 
porary accommodation  was  found  at  Fisherrow  for  the 
inmates  till  the  new  hospital  was  built,  and  opened  on 
3  Dec.  1880.  The  new  building  has  a  frontage  of  160 
feet,  and  consists  of  a  centre  block  and  two  wings  three 
stories  in  height.  It  is  treated  in  the  classic  style,  and 
having  a  large  number  of  windows — no  fewer  than  48 
in  the  frontage — possesses  a  light  and  cheerful  appear- 
ance. The  windows  on  the  second  floor  of  the  central 
part  are  treated  with  pilasters  and  projecting  balconies, 
those  above  being  plain.  The  entrance  is  through  a  porch 
in  keeping  with  the  rest  of  the  fagade,  and  at  the  top  of 
the  building  over  the  entrance  is  a  pediment  containing 
a  large  panel  with  the  inscription,  '  The  Association  for 
Incurables,  Longmore  Hospital.'  There  is  a  considerable 
piece  of  ground  at  the  back  suitably  laid  out.  The  cost 
of  the  site  was  £4000,  and  the  outlay  in  erection  about 
£10,000.  There  is  accommodation  for  44  patients, 
besides  apartments  for  matron,  nurses,  etc. ,  and  also  for 
cases  requiring  special  treatment. — The  Royal  Hospital 
for  Sick  Children  was  commenced  in  1860  in  a  small 
house  in  Lauriston  Lane,  acquired  afterwards  for  itself 
a  separate  building  in  the  same  locality  with  fine 
frontage  and  lawn  bordering  the  West  Meadows,  and 
was  enlarged  in  1871  by  the  addition  of  two  fever 
wards.  During  1881  it  admitted  into  the  wards  528 
children,  and  treated  in  the  dispensary  attached  6052, 
making  a  total  of  6580.  Since  its  establishment  in 
1860  the  number  of  patients  has  year  bv  year  increased, 
and  altogether  up  to  the  end  of  1881,  106,333  sick 
children  had  received  treatment  in  the  hospital.  For 
1881  the  income  was  £1839,  2s.  5d.,  while  the  expendi- 
ture was  £2568,  5s.  3|d.  The  expenditure  over  income 
in  1881  had  arisen  mainly  from  placing  the  whole 
sanitary  arrangements  of  the  hospital  in  a  more  efficient 
state. — Chalmers'  Hospital  for  the  Sick  and  Hurt  stands 
in  Lauriston,  opposite  the  Cattle  ilarket,  and  sprang 
from  a  bequest  by  George  Chalmers,  a  plumber  in  Edin- 
burgh, of  about  £30,000,  left  at  his  death  in  1836,  and 
allowed  to  accumulate  till  1861.  The  hospital  was 
erected  in  1861-63,  is  an  oblon^j  edifice  of  comparatively 
plain  but  pleasing  aspect,  and  is  under  the  management 
of  the  dean  and  faculty  of  advocates.  In  ISSl  the 
number  of  patients  treated  in  non-paj-ing  wards  was 
226,  those  in  other  wards,  60— in  all,  286.  The  num- 
ber treated  in  the  waiting-room  and  surgery  as  out-door 
patients,  2620.  Expenditure  for  the  year,  £1549,  7s.  3d.  ; 
income,  £1631,  8s.  6d.— A  Home  for  Cripple  Children 
under  the  age  of  12,  suffering  from  spinal  affection  and 
hip-joint  disease,  is  at  20  North  Mansionhouse  Road, 
Grange.— An  Hospital  for  the  Diseases  of  Women  was 
proposed  in  1870  to  be  erected  in  Edinburgh,  as  a 
memorial  of  Sir  James  Y.  Simpson,  to  be  arranged  in 
accordance  with  the  latest  expressed  views  of  that  great 

523 


EDINBURGH 


EDINBURGH 


professor :— to  afford  both  suitable  relief  to  suffering 
women,  and  instruction  to  medical  students  in  wonien's 
diseases ;  and  to  be  available  for  patients  from  distant 
places,  e\'en  as  far  as  London  and  Dubliu.  This  pro- 
posal was  carried  into  effect  and  brought  into  conjunc- 
tion with  the  Maternity  Hospital,  instituted  in  1843  ; 
has  a  fine  building  at  West  Lauriston  Place  ;  and  is 
known  at  the  Royal  Maternitj'  and  Simpson  Jlemorial 
Hospital.  —  The  Lying-in  Institution,  established  in 
1824,  is  at  46  Cockburn  Street ;  it  provides  for  deliver- 
ing poor  mai'ried  women  at  their  own  houses,  and  has 
attached  to  it  a  wardrobe  department  managed  by  a 
committee  of  ladies. — The  Society  for  relief  of  poor 
married  women  of  respectable  character  when  in  child- 
bed is  managed  by  ladies,  and  has  a  wardrobe-keeper  at 
20  Dublin  Street. — The  Royal  Dispensary  and  Vaccine 
Institution  is  in  West  Richmond  Street ;  was  established 
in  1776  ;  became,  toward  1872,  utterly  insufficient  for 
its  objects,  so  as  then  to  require  some  extension  of  the 
building  ;  and  during  1881  ministered  to  8643  persons, 
1190  of  these  being  attended  at  their  own  homes.  The 
New  Town  Dispensary  is  in  Thistle  Street,  and  was  in- 
stituted in  1815  ;  the  Throat  Dispensary  is  also  here. — 
A  northern  district  dispensary  is  in  Dean  Sti'eet,  Stock- 
bridge,  at  which,  in  1881,  1300  persons  were  attended 
by  the  medical  officers,  400  were  visited  in  their  own 
homes,  1500  free  prescriptions  were  given,  and  130 
children  vaccinated. — The  Eye  Infirmary  is  at  6  Cam- 
bridge Street,  and  was  instituted  in  1834. — The  Eye 
Dispensary  is  at  54  Cockburn  Street,  and  was  instituted 
in  1822. — The  Ear  Dispensary  is  in  Cambridge  Street, 
and  was  instituted  in  1857. — The  Dental  Dispensary  is 
conjoined  with  the  Dental  College  at  32  Chambers 
Street. — The  Edinburgh  Provident  Dispensarj",  esta- 
blished in  1878,  is  in  Marshall  Street. — The  Scottish 
Nursing  Institution,  established  in  1872,  has  it  home  at 
44  Castle  Street,  and  the  training  institution  for  sick 
nurses  at  125  Princes  Street. — A  lepers'  hospital  was 
erected,  after  the  Reformation,  on  the  site  of  the 
Carmelite  Monastery,  at  the  NE  base  of  Calton  Hill, 
and  was  under  regulations  which  indicate  both  the 
frequent  prevalence  of  leprosy  at  the  time,  and  the  great 
dread  in  which  the  distemper  was  held,  but  it  has  ceased 
to  be  required,  and  has  disappeared. 

The  Royal  Lunatic  Asylum  stands  within  a  high  wall 
enclosure  at  the  foot  of  the  W  side  of  Morningside  ;  is 
partly  a  large  edifice  of  1810-13,  partly  an  extensive 
addition  of  about  1850,  jointly  costing  upwards  of 
£80,000;  and  has  all  the  most  approved  arrangements 
for  the  treatment  of  the  insane,  with  fine  contiguous 
garden-grounds. — The  Midlothian  and  Peeblesshire  dis- 
trict Lunatic  Asylum  is  also  at  Morningside,  and  con- 
sists of  a  main  building  two  stories  in  height,  with 
central  block  and  two  wings,  presenting  a  frontage  of 
about  370  feet.  Parallel  vdih  this  building  is  another 
block  of  140  feet  in  length,  connected  with  the  first  by 
a  one-story  range.  Accommodation  is  provided  for 
about  250  patients.  The  architectural  features  are 
Italian,  and  the  buildings  cost  about  £20,000. 

Eefuge  Asylums. — Trinity  Hospital  was  founded,  in 
connection  with  Trinity  College  Church,  by  Mary  of 
Gueldres,  consort  of  James  II.,  being  originally  an 
edifice  on  the  W  side  of  Leith  Wynd,  which  became 
ruinous  about  the  time  of  the  Reformation,  and  was 
afterwards  the  residence  of  the  provost  and  prebend- 
aries of  Trinity  College  Church.  Refitted  for  new  use, 
it  formed  two  sides  of  a  parallelogram  two  stories 
high,  and  presented  interesting  features  of  monastic 
architecture,  but  was  all  swept  away  in  1845  by  clear- 
ances for  the  terminus  of  the  North  British  Railway. 
It  maintained  42  inmates,  either  burgesses  of  Edinburgh 
or  the  wives  or  unmarried  children  not  under  fifty 
years  of  age ;  and  gave  to  the  inmates,  at  the  de- 
molition of  the  premises,  pensions  of  £26  a  year  each. 
A  new  scheme  for  Trinity  Hospital  was  drawn  up  by 
the  Court  of  Session  in  Feb.  1880,  and  the  number  of 
pensioners,  of  whom  one-eighth  are  incurables,  was  fixed 
at  60  on  the  higher  pension  of  £25  a  year,  22  of  these 
being  appointed  by  private  patrons ;  on  a  lower  pen- 
524 


sion  of  £15,  the  number  was  fixed  at  100. — An  hospital, 
called  the  Hospital  of  our  Lady,  for  the  support  of 
12  poor  men,  stood  in  Leith  Wynd,  and  was  founded  in 
1479  by  Thomas  Spence,  Bishop  of  Aberdeen.  It  passed, 
at  the  Reformation,  into  the  possession  of  the  to\\Ti 
council,  receiving  then,  in  some  unaccountable  way, 
the  name  of  Paul's  Work,  after  which  it  was  converted 
first  into  a  workhouse,  next  into  a  house  of  correc- 
tion, and  next  into  a  broadcloth  factory,  bequeathing 
its  name  of  Paul's  Work  to  a  court  and  cluster  of 
buildings  on  and  around  its  site.  — The  House  of  Refuge 
and  Night  Refuge,  or  temporary  pauper  home  of  house- 
less wanderers  and  night  asylum  for  the  destitute,  is 
Queensberry  House,  a  large  building  in  Canongate 
already  noticed,  managed  by  a  committee,  drawing  its 
income  from  voluntary  contributions,  an  allowance  by 
the  town  council,  payments  by  friends  of  inmates, 
and  the  proceeds  of  work  done  within  it.  According 
to  its  last  biennial  report  (Jan.  1882),  it  had  relieved 
and  sheltered,  during  the  two  preceding  j'cars,  over 
23,000  persons,  besides  giving  breakfast  and  dinner  to 
numbers  of  poor  children.  —  The  Night  Asylum  and 
Stranger's  Friendly  Society  has  its  premises  in  Old 
Fishmarket  Close,  off  High  Street.  — Four  sets  of  im- 
proved lodging-houses  belonging  to  an  association  for 
giving  lodgers  good  accommodation  and  appliances  for 
health  and  comfort  at  low  charges,  are  in  Cowgate,  West 
Port,  Merchant  Street,  and  Mound  Place  respectively 
— the  first  for  80  lodgers,  the  second  for  58,  the  third 
for  48  married  persons  and  females,  and  the  fourth,  for 
females  only,  accommodates  30  lodgers. — Queensberry 
Lodge,  for  the  treatment  of  ladies  addicted  to  intemper- 
ance, stands  within  the  grounds  of  Queensbeny  House, 
adjacent  to  South  Back  Canongate.  It  is  a  neat  building 
in  the  Scottish  Baronial  style,  erected  in  1860  ;  and, 
dui'ing  the  first  four  years  after  its  opening,  admitted 
as  boarders  91  ladies  from  all  parts  of  the  kingdom  ;  and 
its  estimation  has  risen  so  much  since  then  that  the  daily 
average  of  boarders  has  increased  from  about  7  to  nearly 
20. — A  training  home  for  friendless  girls  of  good 
character  is  in  Lauriston  Lane  ;  a  girl's  house  of  refuge 
or  western  reformatory  is  near  Dahy ;  and  an  institu- 
tion for  the  reformation  of  juvenile  female  delinquents  is 
at  Dean  Bank. — The  Magdalene  Asylum,  instituted  in 
1797,  is  at  Dairy;  an  industrial  home  for  fallen  women 
is  at  Alnwick  Hill,  near  Liberton  ;  and  the  rescue  and 
probationary  home  for  fallen  women,  instituted  in  1861, 
is  at  St  John's  Hill. — An  institution  for  the  relief  of 
incurables  was  founded  by  the  late  Mrs  Elizabeth  Keir 
in  1805. 

JForJcJwuses.  — The  old  workhouse  for  the  city  parishes, 
built  partly  in  1743,  and  partly  about  a  century  later, 
stood  on  the  W  side  of  Forrest  Road,  close  to  the  grounds 
of  Heriot's  Hospital.  It  then  comprised  a  liuge  barrack- 
looking  mass  four  stories  high,  and  some  separate  struc- 
tures, with  accommodation  originally  for  450  inmates, 
together  with  a  children's  hospital ;  afterwards  increas- 
ing its  accommodation  first  for  691,  and  then  for  909 
altogether  ;  but  these  buildings  were  sold  in  Dec.  1870 
and  March  1871  for  £23,000. — The  new  workhouse 
stands  at  Craiglockhart,  about  3  miles  SW  from  the 
centre  of  the  city,  and  was  erected  in  1867-70  at  a  cost 
of  about  £50,000.  It  is  in  the  Scottish  Baronial  style 
with  a  corbelled  octagonal  tower  105  feet  high  at  the 
centre  of  the  main  workhouse,  and  contains  a  dining- 
hall  74  feet  by  48,  and  a  kitchen  30  feet  square  and  19 
feet  high.  It  comprises  three  distinct  groups  of  build- 
ings— the  main  workhouse  in  the  centre,  the  infirmary 
to  the  E,  and  the  lunatic  asylum  to  the  W  ;  has  accom- 
modation for  about  800  inmates  in  the  main  workhouse ; 
and  there  is  a  detached  villa  for  the  governor. — The 
tovnx  offices  stand  on  the  W  side  of  Bristo  Place,  oc- 
cupying part  of  the  site  of  the  old  Darien  House,  and 
were  erected  partly  in  1844,  and  the  rest  of  them  in 
1871-72,  and  are  neat  and  commodious.  The  return  of 
poor  for  Jan.  1882  showed  that  the  number  of  paupers 
on  the  out-door  roll  was  741,  as  against  772  in  Jan. 
1881,  while  the  number  of  inmates  in  the  jioorhouse 
was  695  as  compared  with  766  at  the  same  time  in  1881. 


EDINBURGH 

— St  Cuthbert's  Poorhouse  formerly  stood  in  St  Cuth- 
bert's  Lane,  a  short  distance  W  of  St  Cuthbert's  Churcli, 
and  was  a  dingy  group  of  buildings.  They  were  re- 
moved in  1866,  along  with  St  George's  Free  Church  and 
other  buildings,  to  give  place  to  the  new  station  of  the 
Caledonian  Railway. — That  of  Canongate  occupied  a 
series  of  old  buildings  in  Tolbooth  Wynd,  overlooking 
the  churchyard  lying  round  the  parish  church,  and  were 
in  many  respects  altogether  unfitted  for  their  purpose. — 
The  Combination  Poorhouse  for  St  Cuthbert's  and 
Canongate  stands  in  an  airy  situation  near  Craigleith, 
in  the  western  part  of  St  Cuthbert's  parish.  It  was 
erected  at  a  cost  of  about  £40,000,  a  considerable  portion 
of  which  sum  accrued  from  the  sale  of  the  old  buildings, 
and  is  a  most  imposing  edifice,  thought  by  some  to  be 
unduly  attractive  to  paupers.  It  has  considerably  more 
accommodation  than  the  old  poorhouse  ;  yet,  even  with 
this  additional  room,  it  was  found  inadequate  to  meet 
the  requirements,  so  that  additional  wings,  four  stories  in 
height  at  either  end,  and  in  unison  with  the  original 
design,  were  added  in  1880.  This  extension  cost  about 
£10,000,  and  gave  room  for  192  more  inmates.  From 
the  inspector's  report  for  the  half-year  ending  Nov. 
1881  it  appeared  that  the  number  of  poor  on  the  out- 
door roll,  exclusive  of  lunatics,  was  12-38,  being  an  in- 
crease of  12  compared  with  the  number  at  the  same  date 
of  the  previous  year.  The  average  number  of  inmates  in 
the  poorhouse  and  dependants  for  the  year  was  641. 

Market  Structures. — The  chief  public  flesh  market  is 
situated  on  the  northern  slopes  of  the  Old  Town,  close 
by  the  Xorth  Bridge ;  it  comprises  a  series  of  terraces, 
and  is  partitioned  into  departments,  well-arranged  and 
tidy.  Smaller  flesh  markets  were  formerly  at  West 
Nicolson  Street,  Dublin  Street,  and  Stockbridge,  but 
are  now  as  such  almost  wholly  disused.  Large  quanti- 
ties of  fish  are  brought  from  the  coast,  chiefly  from 
Newhaven  and  Fisherrow,  and  sold  in  a  fresh  state 
variously  in  markets,  shops,  and  on  the  streets.  A 
great  weekly  market  of  country  produce  in  quantity, 
connectedly  with  the  sample  sales  of  grain  in  the  Corn 
Exchange,  is  held  every  Wednesday  in  the  spacious 
area  of  Grassmarket.  The  cattle  market  is  a  commo- 
dious enclosure,  in  the  triangular  space  between  West 
Port,  Lady  Lawson's  Street,  and  Lauriston  Place ;  and 
is  open  every  Wednesday  from  an  early  hour  for  sales, 
which  commonly  amounts  to  about  800  or  900  head  of 
cattle  and  about  2000  head  of  sheep.  The  old  Green 
Market,  for  vegetables  and  fruit,  lay  in  the  bottom  of 
the  valley  to  the  E  of  the  chief  flesh  market,  and  was 
transferred  in  1869  to  the  North  British  Railway  Com- 
pany, for  extension  of  their  station.  The  present  vege- 
table market  adjoins  Princes  Street,  opposite  St  Andrew 
Street.  It  occupies  the  northern  part  of  the  site  of  what 
was  the  terminus  of  the  Edinburgh,  Perth,  and  Dundee 
Railway,  now  amalgamated  with  the  North  British,  and 
was  constructed  by  the  railway  company  in  lieu  of  the 
old  market.  It  rests  on  a  series  of  archwaj's,  so  high  as 
to  furnish  storage  places  below,  and  so  strong  as  to  bear 
any  great  public  building  which  might  be  erected  on 
them  ;  is  fenced  from  Princes  Street  by  a  neat  iron  rail- 
ing, though  it  presented  for  a  time  so  plain  an  appear- 
ance as  to  be  somewhat  of  an  eyesore  amid  the  many  fine 
public  buUdings  in  its  neighbourhood.  Of  recent  years 
this  has  been  greatly  amended,  and  a  platform  roof  was 
made,  resting  on  a  system  of  iron  beams  and  main 
girders,  crossing  the  open  space  in  two  spans,  supported 
in  the  centre  by  a  range  of  iron  columns.  The  platform 
roof  has  a  series  of  wells  or  deep  depressions,  with  glass 
on  sides  and  top  to  afford  light  to  the  market  below  ;  is 
furnished  along  the  edges  with  a  low  parapet  and  railing, 
ha\'ing  at  intervals  pedestals  carrying  flower  vases  ;  pre- 
sents to  the  W  a  semicircular  two-story  facade,  close 
beneath  which  is  an  aquarium  ;  and  to  the  S,  in  full 
view  from  North  Bridge,  a  similar  facade  to  that  on  the 
W  ;  whilst  the  greater  portion  of  the  roof  is  laid  out  in 
walks  and  flower  parterres,  presenting  quite  an  attractive 
appearance,  and  known  by  the  name  of  the  Waverley 
Garden. 

Slaughter  Houses.  — These  are  so  intimately  connected 


EDINBURGH 

with  markets,  that  they  may  be  fitly  noticed  here.  The 
old  shambles  stood  under  the  North  Bridge,  beside  the 
chief  flesh  market,  and  were  a  horrible  nuisance.  The 
new  slaughter  houses  are  situated  on  the  grounds  of  Loch- 
rin,  between  Fountainbridge  and  Lochrin  Distillery,  at 
the  south-western  extremity  of  the  city ;  they  were  opened 
in  1852,  and  occupy  an  area  of  nearly  4  acres.  They 
are  entered  through  a  massive  Egyptian  facade  at  Foun- 
tainbridge, with  emblematic  figures  and  stone  caryatides 
of  cattle,  supporting  arches  and  serving  as  corbels  ;  and 
are  interiorly  fitted  with  every  convenience,  comprising 
ranges  of  shambles,  which  are  let  out  to  the  butchers  of 
the  city. 

Water  Works.— k\\  the  supply  of  water  for  the  city 
was,  in  1875,  brought  from  springs  and  rills  on  the 
northern  slopes  of  the  Pentlands,  within  the  rivers- 
sj^stems  of  the  North  Esk  and  the  Water  of  Leith  ;  and 
the  works,  which  afforded  supplies  also  to  Leith  and 
Portobello,  comprised  erections  for  damming  the  rills, 
appliances  for  filtering  the  water,  trunk-pipes  for  bring- 
ing it  to  Edinburgh,  a  reservoir  on  Castle  Hill  for  re- 
ceiving it,  and  pipes  for  distributing  it  through  the  city. 
It  was  in  1621  that  the  magistrates  obtained  parlia- 
mentary authority  to  cast  'seuchs  and  ditches,' in  the 
lands  between  the  city  and  the  Pentlands,  for  bringing 
water,  but  they  were  not  able  for  half  a  century  to 
execute  any  of  the  works ;  about  which  time  they  en- 
gaged a  German  plumber,  in  1674,  for  £2950,  to  lay 
down  a  leaden  pipe,  of  3  inches  in  diameter,  from  Comis 
ton  to  a  reserv'oir  on  Castle  Hill.  At  length,  in  1722, 
a  new  pipe,  of  4^  inches  in  diameter,  was  laid  from 
the  same  quarter,  with  supply  from  additional  springs  ; 
and  subsequently  new  parliamentary  authority  was  ob- 
tained for  extending  the  works,  and  a  cast-iron  pipe,  of  5 
inches  in  diameter,  was  laid  in  1787  from  Comiston,  and 
another  of  7  inches  in  diameter,  in  1790,  from  springs 
on  the  lands  of  Swanston.  These  works  were  executed 
out  of  the  city  funds,  at  a  cost  of  £20,000  ;  but,  owing 
to  increase  of  population,  they  failed  to  furnish  a  suffi- 
cient supply,  and  could  not  be  further  extended  except 
on  some  basis  of  compulsory  assessment.  A  water  com- 
pany, with  the  town  council  holding  shares  in  it  as 
representatives  of  the  citizens,  was  accordingly  formed 
in  1810,  and  incorporated  in  1819,  with  a  capital  of 
£135,000.  The  Company  obtained  new  powers  in  1826, 
with  a  further  capital  of  £118,000,  and  opened  a  new 
gi'and  source  of  supply  at  the  Crawley  springs,  nearly  9 
miles  from  the  city.  A  cistern  was  formed  at  these 
springs,  6  feet  deep,  15  wide,  and  45  long,  with  retaining 
walls  and  an  arched  roof ;  a  large  artificial  pond  being 
also  formed  to  provide  compensatory  supply  to  mills  on 
the  North  Esk.  A  cast-iron  pipe,  of  from  15  to  20  inches 
in  diameter,  was  laid  from  the  cistern  along  the  vale  of 
Glencorse,  through  a  tunnel  of  about  a  mile  in  length, 
thence  by  Straiton,  Burdiehouse,  and  Liberton  Dams  to 
the  N  side  of  the  Meadows,  next  through  a  tunnel  2160 
feet  in  length  under  the  surface  of  Heriot's  Green,  then 
across  Grassmarket,  sending  off  there  branch  pipes  to 
reservoirs  near  Heriot's  Hospital  and  on  Castle  Hill, 
and  proceeding  by  a  tunnel  740  feet  long  through  the 
rock  of  Castle  Hill,  and  120  feet  beneath  the  reservoir 
there,  to  Princes  Street.  Pipes,  which  ramified  from 
these  reservoirs,  were  laid  through  all  the  principal 
streets ;  and,  previous  to  being  laid,  were  tested  by  a 
pressure  equal  to  a  vertical  column  of  800  feet  of  water. 
The  new  works  cost  nearly  £200,000,  and  raised  the 
total  supply  of  water  to  the  rate  of  about  298  cubic  feet 
per  minute  ;  yet,  from  increase  of  population  and  great 
scarcity  in  times  of  drought,  even  these  works  were  not 
enough.  The  Company,  therefore,  obtained  new  powers 
in  1843  and  at  subsequent  dates  ;  and  from  time  to  time 
made  repairs  and  improvements  on  their  previous  works, 
constructing  extensive  new  ones,  wliich  drew  large  sup- 
plies from  tlie  Black,  the  Listonshiels,  and  the  Bavelaw 
springs,  situated  respectively  9,  10,  and  12*  miles  from 
Edinburgh.  The  supiJies  from  the  Listcmshiells  and 
the  Bavelaw  springs,  about  forty  in  number,  which  be- 
came available  in  1847,  are  coiiveyed,  in  clay  pipes, 
into  a  stone  cistern  at  Westrigg,  about  12  miles  from 

525 


EDINBURGH 


EDINBURGH 


the  city  ;  thence  through  an  aqi'.educt  nearly  5  miles 
long  to  Torphin  Hill,  and  afterwards  by  an  iron  pipe  of 
16  inches  internal  diameter  to  the  cit}'^.  The  reservoirs 
then  at  Crawley,  Loganlea,  Clubbiedean,  Bonally,  and 
Torduff  had  collectively  a  storage  capacity  of  112,962,267 
cubic  feet,  and  were  capable  of  affording  a  supply  of  3500 
cubic  feet  of  water  per  minute  for  a  period  of  four  months 
without  rain.  The  Company,  in  1863.  though  they  ex- 
pended altogether  on  their  works  £485,937,  and  were 
able  to  give,  or  professed  themselves  able  to  give,  a  daily 
supply  of  water  to  the  amount  of  31 '12  gallons  for  each 
inhabitant,  obtained  powers  to  raise  £46,000  for  the  pur- 
chase of  new  gathering  grounds  and  the  construction  of 
new  works  ;  and  expected  to  be  able,  after  the  completion 
of  the  new  works,  to  furnish  a  daily  supply  amounting 
to  39  gallons  for  each  inhabitant.  Dissatisfaction,  how- 
ever, arose  among  a  large  section  of  the  community  ; 
doubts  were  entertained  as  to  the  sufficiency  of  the 
works  ;  complaints  were  made  regarding  great  and  fre- 
quent scarcity  in  some  districts  of  the  city ;  and  this 
eventually  led  to  measures  which  terminated  in  the 
transference  of  the  works,  by  compulsory  sale,  to  the 
town  council  in  1869.  The  water  trustees  appointed  by 
the  towni  council  speedily  concocted  a  gigantic  scheme 
for  bringing  a  new  supply  from  St  Mary's  Loch  in  Sel- 
kirkshire, variously  estimated  to  cost  about  £500,000 
and  upwards  ;  spent  considerable  sums  in  preparatory 
measures  for  that  scheme,  and  in  seeking  autliority  for 
it  from  parliament ;  came  eventually  into  collision  with 
the  opinions  of  a  large  proportion  of  the  ratepa3'ers  ; 
and,  in  1871,  though  they  carried  their  scheme  through 
the  House  of  Commons,  were  defeated  on  it  in  the  House 
of  Lords,  mainly  on  the  ground  that  the  evidence  adduced 
by  their  opponents  tended  to  prove  that  a  sufficient 
supply  was  obtainable  from  the  gathering-grounds  in  the 
Pentlands.  The  gentlemen  who  succeeded  to  the  trustee- 
ship in  November  1871  mostly  held  views  antagonistic 
to  the  St  Mary's  Loch  scheme,  and  they  directed  their 
attention  to  the  improvement  of  the  existing  works  and 
to  further  survey  of  the  Pentland  gathering-grounds, 
but  held  themselves  open  to  consider  any  scheme  for 
new  works  which  might  be  desired  or  approved  by  the 
general  body  of  the  ratepayers.  An  act  was  obtained  in 
1874  to  construct  works  for  bringing  an  additional  sup- 
ply from  parts  of  the  Moorfoot  Hills  M-ithin  the  basin  of 
the  South  Esk  ;  and  another  act  was  applied  for,  in  the 
winter  of  1875,  to  grant  power  for  the  construction  of 
additional  works  within  the  basin  of  the  North  Esk, 
and  making  of  arrangements  for  furnishing  supplies  to 
Lasswade,  Dalkeith,  and  Musselburgh.  The  water  is  of 
excellent  quality  ;  and,  with  exception  of  some  densely 
peopled  and  poor  districts  where  defective  distribution 
has  been  more  or  less  due  to  the  bad  fittings  in  the 
houses,  it  has  generally  been  supplied  so  regularly  and 
plentifully  as  to  contribute  grcntly  to  the  comfort  and 
health  of  the  population.  The  average  supply  is 
12,897,000  gallons  per  day,  equal  to  41-54  gallons  per 
head  to  a  population  of  310,400.  The  total  quantity  of 
water  stored  in  the  reservoirs  is  nearly  2,061,726,000 
gallons.  Of  the  12,897,000  gallons  supplied,  4,473,000 
are  from  Listonshiels  and  Bavelaw,  7,080,000  from  Aln- 
wickhill,  810,000  from  Torduff,  and  534,000  from  Swans- 
ton  and  Comiston.  The  7,080,000  gallons  from  Aln- 
wickhill  were  made  up  as  follow  : — 2,700,000  were  from 
Glencorse,  3,048,000  from  Gladhouse,  800,000  from 
Portmore,  and  532,000  from  Tweeddalc  Burn. 

The  reservoir  on  Castle  Hill  stands  at  the  head  of  the 
W  corner  of  liamsay  Lane,  near  the  NE  verge  of  the 
Castle  esplanade,  and  was  originally  constructed  about 
the  year  1674.  It  was  a  remarkably  plain  structure, 
5  feet  deep,  30  wide,  and  40  long,  with  a  capacity  for 
about  6000  cubic  feet  of  water ;  but,  being  too  small 
for  the  increasing  wants  of  the  city,  it  was  demolished 
in  the  autumn  of  1849,  to  give  place  to  a  much  larger 
one.  The  present  reservoir  stands  on  the  same  site, 
and  is  constructed  with  great  strength,  and  has  an  orna- 
mental appearance,  rising  exteriorly  to  the  height  of  one 
story.  It  measures  interiorly  30  feet  in  de})th,  90  in 
width,  and  110  in  length :  has  capacity  for  about 
626 


297,000  cubic  feet  of  water;  is  fed  by  a  pipe  which 
delivers  253  cubic  feet  per  minute  ;  and  sends  oil"  from 
its  bottom  a  series  of  pipes  for  distributing  the  water  to 
+he  higher  parts  of  the  city.  A  large  cistern,  lor 
furnishing  an  ample  readj^  supply  to  the  troops  in 
garrison,  and  affording  ordinary  supply  to  such  houses 
in  Castle  Hill,  Lawnmarket,  and  the  upper  part  of  High 
Street  a  sare  situated  at  a  greater  altitude  than  the  re- 
servoir on  Castle  Hill,  is  in  the  shot-yard  of  the  Castle, 
and  was  constructed  in  1850. 

There  are  drinking  fountains  in  various  parts  of  the 
city  and  the  suburbs,  which  originated  chiefly  about  1859, 
and  are  largely  due  to  the  beneficence  of  the  late  Miss 
Catherine  Siuclair.  Thej"  are  nearly  all  of  simple  action, 
sending  a  flow  of  water  into  a  metal  cup  by  pressure  of 
a  valve -stud,  some  being  of  iron,  some  of  polished 
granite,  and  several  fitted  in  a  species  of  well-case,  with 
self-acting  tap  fixed  to  a  wall  front.  A  prominent  one 
is  a  neat  triangular  structure,  erected  in  1859  at  the 
expense  of  Miss  Sinclair,  on  the  thoroughfare  at  the 
meeting-point  of  Princes  Street,  Lothian  Road,  Mait- 
land  Street,  and  Hope  Street.  Another  prominent  one 
is  a  neat  structure,  erected  in  1869  at  the  expense  of 
Mrs  Nicol  of  Huntly  Lodge,  at  the  NE  of  Borouglimuir- 
head  entrance  to  Morningside  ;  and  both  of  these,  in 
addition  to  drinking-cups  for  pedestrians,  have  water- 
troughs  for  cattle,  and  surmounting  ornamental  lamps. 
A  large  ornate  public  fountain,  designed  by  Durenne  of 
Paris,  stands  on  the  middle  walk  of  West  Princes  Street 
Gardens,  was  presented  to  the  city  by  Mr  Ross  of 
Rockville,  and  cost  him  upwards  of  £2000.  It  arrived 
at  Edinburgh,  in  122  pieces,  in  the  autumn  of  1869, 
and  cost  about  £450  from  private  donations  or  other 
sources  before  it  could  be  erected.  It  forms  an  interest- 
ing feature  in  the  landscape  seen  from  the  Mound ;  and, 
being  visible  from  Princes  Street,  is  an  ornament  also 
to  tliat  great  thoroughfare.  Another  highly  ornate 
public  fountain  is  in  Holyrood  Palace-yard,  already 
noticed  in  the  section  on  HoljTood. 

Gas  Works. — The  Edinburgh  Gas-Light  Company 
was  formed  in  1817,  and  incorporated  in  1818,  with  a 
capital  of  £100,000  in  shares  of  £25.  Their  chief 
premises  stand  between  Canongate,  New  Street,  North 
Back  of  Canongate,  and  Canongate  cemetery ;  are  very 
extensive  ;  and  have  a  principal  chimney,  erected  in 
1847,  and  rising  to  the  height  of  342  feet.  The  chimney 
is  a  cylindrical  brick  column,  springing  from  a  square 
stone  pedestal  measuring  30  feet  each  way  ;  it  tapers 
in  diameter  from  26  feet  to  16  feet,  is  finished  at  the 
top  with  belts  and  coping,  and  has  an  endless  chain 
inside,  affording  the  means  of  ascent  at  any  time  to  the 
top.  It  stands  so  near  the  bottom  of  the  hollow  at  the 
southern  base  of  Calton  Hill  as  not  to  figure  largely  iu 
most  of  the  architectural  groupings  of  the  city  ;  but,  as 
seen  from  some  vantage-grounds  of  the  southern  environs, 
particularly  about  Liberton,  it  soars  well  aloft.  A  gaso- 
meter adjacent  to  the  principal  works  has  a  diameter  of 
lOli  feet;  seven  other  gasometers  are  in  different  situa- 
tions; and  about  100  miles  of  supply-pipes,  from  IJ 
inch  to  15  inches  in  diameter,  are  ramified  through  the 
streets. — The  Edinburgh  and  Leith  Gas-Light  Company 
was  formed  in  1839  ;  purchased  gas-works  in  Lcith,  be- 
longing to  a  previous  company;  and  laid  pipes  through 
the  streets  to  supply  both  Leith  and  Edinburgh  from 
the  Leith  works. — Extensive  premises  for  making  oil-gas 
were  erected  in  1825  at  Tanfield ;  but,  proving  unsuc- 
cessful, the  buildings  went  by  sale  to  the  Edinburgh 
Gas-Light  Company,  and  were  partly  reserved,  with  four 
gasometers,  for  supplying  the  northern  parts  of  the  city 
from  the  Canongate  works,  and  partly  converted  into  a 
large  hall,  used  for  the  early  meetings  of  the  Free  Church 
Assembly,  but  now  used  entirely  as  warehouses. 

Railway  Works.— TYie  Old  Edinburgh  and  Dalkeith 
Railway,  now  amalgamated  with  the  North  British, 
commences  at  St  Leonard's,  near  the  boundary  of  the 
Queen's  Park,  on  the  south-eastern  verge  of  the  city,  and 
passes  through  a  sloping  tunnel  in  the  near  neiglibour- 
liood  of  the  terminus.  It  was  used  for  passenger  traffic  in 
carriages  drawn  by  horses  for  some  time  after  locomotive 


EDINBURGH 


EDINBURGH 


engines  ran  on  other  railways,  got  thence  the  popular 
name  of  i;ne  '  Innocent  Railway,'  and  is  now  used  only  for 
the  convej-ance  of  coal. — The  original  terminus  of  the 
Caledonian  Railway  was  on  the  W  side  of  Lothian  Road, 
about  350  yards  S  from  the  AV  end  of  Princes  Street,  and 
was  designed  to  be  a  spacious  ornamental  edifice,  but 
became  little  more  than  a  huge  open  shed.  It  ceased 
to  be  used  for  passenger  traffic  about  the  beginning  of 
1870 ;  underwent  then  extensive  changes,  converting 
the  whole  of  it  into  a  goods  station  ;  and  presents  now  to 
the  street  a  long  range  of  low  stone  front,  partly  orna- 
mental, including  a  heavy  goods  store  65  feet  long  and 
30  wide,  and  a  grain  store  290  feet  long  and  about  30 
wide,  with  ample  room  and  every  facility  for  all  sorts 
of  goods  traffic.  The  new  terminus  of  the  Caledonian 
Railway  is  in  the  angle  between  Lothian  Road  and 
Rutland  Street,  at  the  W  end  of  Princes  Street,  and 
occupies  part  of  an  extensive  area,  reaching  to  the  old 
terminus.  It  was  purchased  and  cleared  at  enormous 
cost,  and  fenced  from  Lothian  Road  by  a  lofty  retaining 
wall.  Erected  in  1869  at  a  cost  of  more  than  £10,000, 
it  presents  a  neat  one-story  elevation,  103  feet  long 
and  22  wide  ;  and  is  intended  to  give  place  to  a  mag- 
nificent permanent  structure,  with  an  adjoining  great 
hotel.  The  railway  line,  from  both  the  old  terminus 
and  the  new,  passes  beneath  lofty  houses  at  Tobago 
Street  and  Gardner's  Crescent,  and  has  there  a  remark- 
ably interesting  short  tunnel.  Be}-ond  this  tunnel  there 
is  a  sub-station  for  the  convenience  of  passengers  in  that 
portion  of  the  city. — Haymarket  Station  stands  in  the 
angle  between  Corstorphine  or  Glasgow  Road  and  Dairy 
Road,  and  was  the  original  terminus  of  the  Edinburgh 
and  Glasgow  Railway.  It  presents  a  neat  two-story 
Italian  front  to  the  thoroughfare  leading  on  to  Princes 
Street;  has  ample  yards  and  other  spaces  for  the  different 
departments  of  traffic  ;  and  serves  now  as  the  station  of 
the  North  British  system  for  the  W  end  of  the  city,  and 
as  an  extensive  coal  depot. 

The  ultimate  terminus  of  the  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow 
Railway,  the  original  terminus  of  the  North  British 
Railway,  and  the  terminus  of  the  Edinburgh,  Perth, 
and  Dundee  Railway,  were  all  situated  in  the  Nor' 
Loch  valley,  at  the  E  side  of  Waverley  Bridge.  That 
bridge  was  erected  in  connection  with  the  termini,  and 
occupied  the  site  of  a  previous  raised  roadway,  called 
the  Little  Mound.  It  was  a  substantial  and  somewhat 
neat  stone  structure,  comprising  several  arches,  all  span- 
ning lines  of  railway  ;  rose  to  an  elevation  much  below 
that  of  the  margins  of  the  valley ;  and  had  neat, 
spacious,  descending  approaches  from  respectively  the 
reach  of  Princes  Street,  between  St  Andrew  Street  and 
St  David  Street,  and  the  point  of  southern  thoroughfare 
to  which  Cockburn  Street  was  opened  in  1861.  The 
three  termini  occupied  much  ground ;  occasioned  the 
demolition  of  several  old  streets,  the  old  Orphan 
Hospital,  Lady  Glenorchy's  Church,  Trinity  Hospital, 
and  Trinity  College  Chiirch  ;  and  were  so  well  fitted 
into  the  valley,  and  so  neatly  constructed,  as  to  present 
an  appearance  partly  ornamental  and  entirely  pleasant. 
The  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  terminus,  and  that  of  the 
North  British,  were  conjoint,  the  former  on  the  S,  the 
latter  on  the  N,  and  extended  E  and  W.  The  station- 
house  presented  to  the  roadway  of  Waverley  Bridge  a 
one-story  elevation  with  elegant  arcade -piazza,  and  con- 
tained, on  the  level  of  the  roadway,  handsome  booking- 
offices,  with  compartments  sustained  by  Corinthian  pil- 
lars. The  carriage  platform  was  on  a  level  two  stories 
lower,  reached  by  long,  spacious,  descending  flights  of 
steps  from  the  sides  of  the  booking-offices,  and  covered, 
in  the  manner  of  a  crystal  palace,  with  a  roof  of  great 
height,  yet  not  so  high  as  the  level  of  Princes  Street 
roadway  ;  and  offered  egress  both  to  pedestrians  and  to 
vehicles,  by  roads  comparatively  steep,  and  somewhat 
similar  to  many  other  ascending  thoroughfares  of  the 
city.  The  Edinburgh,  Perth,  and  Dundee  terminus 
stood  between  the  other  two  and  Princes  Street,  com- 
municating with  them,  in  goods  traffic,  by  underground 
rails,  and  separated  from  them,  for  passenger  transit, 
by  only  the  breadth  of  a  roadway. 


The  present  North  British  terminus  concentrates  the 
lines  of  all  the  three  original  termini,  and  occupies  the 
entire  areas  of  the  original  North  British  and  the  Edin- 
burgh and  Glasgow  termini,  about  half  that  of  the 
Edinburgh,  Perth,  and  Dundee  terminus,  the  whole  of 
that  of  the  old  vegetable  market,  and  other  ground  to 
the  E  and  S.  Involving  the  entire  reconstruction  of  the 
Waverley  Bridge,  and  material  improvements  on  the 
approaches,  it  consists  partly  of  retained  portions  of  the 
orii;inal  structures,  but  generally  of  entirely  new  works. 
It  was  formed,  in  successive  parts,  throughout  the  years 
1869-1873  ;  is  much  more  convenient  and  commodious 
than  the  three  termini  which  preceded  it ;  and  was 
planned  with  reference  to  any  further  extension  which 
subsequent  increase  of  traffic  might  require.  The  new 
Waverley  Bridge  was  formed  on  a  similar  model  to  that  of 
the  new  Westminster  Bridge  in  London,  and  rises  to  a 
higher  elevation,  and  less  below  the  level  of  Princes  Street, 
than  the  previous  bridge.  It  is  also  considerably  wider 
than  that  bridge  was  ;  consists  mainly  of  iron,  with  an 
appearance  somewhat  plain  and  stiff;  and  rests  on  three 
rows  of  iron  pillars,  supported  by  substantial  stone  piers. 
The  pedestrian  approach  from  Princes  Street  is  wider  and 
much  more  convenient  than  the  old  pedestrian  approach 
to  the  Edinburgh,  Perth,  and  Dundee  terminus  ;  de- 
scends from  the  NE  corner  of  new  Waverley  Market ;  and 
has  also  an  entrance  by  flights  of  steps  from  North  Bridge, 
at  the  SE  corner  of  the  Post  Office.  The  carriage  access, 
both  from  Princes  Street  and  the  Old  Town,  is  a  spacious 
roadway  in  line  with  Waverley  Bridge,  which  curves  from 
that  line  round  the  retaining  wall  of  the  new  vegetable 
market,  and  terminates  in  a  large  paved  space  in  front 
of  the  booking-offices.  These  offices,  together  -nith 
M-aiting  and  other  rooms,  have  the  form  of  an  oblong 
square,  and  are  two  stories  high,  and  flat-roofed.  They 
present  a  plain  but  neat  elevation  to  the  N,  extend  across 
the  terminus  platform,  and  have  a  corridor  from  end  to 
end,  affording  easy  access  to  any  point  of  the  platform. 
The  platform  is  of  vast  length,  extending  from  a  short 
distance  W  of  Waverley  Bridge  to  the  near  vicinity  of 
Leith  Wynd,  and  is  considerably  broader  at  the  central 
part,  where  the  offices  stand,  than  was  the  entire 
previous  platform  of  the  original  North  British  and 
Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  termini.  It  resembles  the  New- 
castle-on-Tyne  station  in  being  one-sided ;  has,  along 
its  S  side,  four  lines  of  rails  for  through  traffic ;  con- 
tains, to  the  E  and  to  the  W  of  the  booking-offices, 
several  '  docks '  for  the  local  passenger  traffic  ;  permits 
twelve  trains,  without  more  than  ordinary  bustle  or 
confusion,  simultaneously  to  take  in  or  discharge  pas- 
sengers ;  and  is  covered,  throughout  its  entire  extent, 
by  a  glazed  iron  roof,  40  feet  high,  of  similar  construc- 
tion to  that  of  the  Victoria  Station  in  London.  The 
goods  station  lies  to  the  S  and  E  of  the  passenger  plat- 
form, a  very  large  new  shed  having  recently  been  erected 
eastwards.  The  cost  of  the  entire  reconstruction  of  the 
terminus  was  estimated  to  amount  to  about  £90,000. 

The  westward  line  from  the  North  British  terminus 
traverses  the  centre  of  the  East  and  West  Princes  Street 
Gardens,  being  conducted  by  a  tunnel  through  the 
Mound.  It  passes  under  neat,  light  foot-bridges,  within 
West  Princes  Street  Gardens  ;  almost  hugs  the  skirts 
of  the  romantic  cliffs  of  the  Castle ;  and  then  plunges 
into  a  tunnel,  running  about  3000  feet  under  the  streets 
of  the  western  New  Town,  and  emerging  at  Haymarket 
Station.  The  northward  line  of  the  Edinburgh,  Perth, 
and  Dundee  Railway  formerly  passed  immediately  from 
the  terminus  into  a  tunnel  "at  a  decorated  arch-work 
beneath  the  brow  of  Princes  Street ;  descended  that 
tunnel,  on  a  rapidly  inclined  plane  beneath  the  whole 
breadth  of  the  New  Town,  to  the  foot  of  Scotland  Street ; 
and  was  worked  along  that  inclined  plane  by  means  of 
a  stationary  engine  at  the  terminus,  and  an  endless 
cable.  This  tunnel  was  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
pieces  of  engineering  work  in  modem  times,  oidy  a 
little  less  wonderful  than  the  tunnel  beneath  the  Thames 
at  London,  and  was  formed  at  great  cost,  and  not  with- 
out considerable  degrees  of  risk  ;  yet,  subsequently  to 
the  amalgamation  of  the  Edinburgh,  Perth,  and  Dundee 

627 


EDINBURGH 

Railway  with  the  North  British,  was  entirely  relin- 
quished, and  is  now  a  mere  useless  curiosity.  The  east- 
ward line,  or  line  of  the  North  British  proper,  traverses 
the  southern  spur  of  Calton  Hill  in  a  tunnel  right 
below  Burns's  Monument ;  curves  thence,  above  the 
level  of  the  surrounding  hollows,  partly  on  embank- 
ments and  partly  on  arched  viaducts,  till  it  reaches  the 
railway  engine  and  workshop  depot  at  St  Margaret's  ; 
and,  at  a  point  adjacent  to  Abbeyhill  450  yards  E  of 
the  end  of  the  tunnel  through  the  spur  of  Calton 
Hill,  sends  off  a  branch,  completed  in  1869,  to  com- 
municate with  the  N  in  lieu  of  the  line  down  the 
tunnel  to  Scotland  Street.  That  branch  passes  under 
the  London  Road,  or  rather  imder  a  new,  long,  raised 
roadway  formed  at  great  cost  in  lieu  of  the  original 
road  ;  curves  rapidly  from  an  east-north-easterly  to  a 
•west-north-westerly  direction  ;  goes  under  Leith  Walk, 
having  there  a  depot  and  a  station  ;  and  passes  thence 
north-north-westward,  to  a  considerable  distance,  into 
junction  -with  the  original  line  from  Scotland  Street. 
A  Suburban  and  Soutliside  Junction  Railway  is  in  pro- 
cess of  construction  (1882)  in  connection  with  the  North 
British,  and  branches  off  AV  of  Haymarket,  passing 
round  by  Dairy,  Morningside,  Powburn,  Newington, 
and  thence  onward  to  join  with  the  main  line  near 
Joppa  Station. 

The  Tramwaijs. — A  system  of  tramways  for  the  prin- 
cipal thoroughfares  of  "the  city  and  its  environs  was 
authorised  in  the  early  part  of  1871,  and  now  comprises 
lines  from  the  General  Post  Office  to  Leith,  Newhaven, 
and  Trinity  ;  from  the  General  Post  Office  to  Haymarket 
and  Coltbridge;  from  Princes  Street,  by  St  Andrew 
Street,  York  Place,  and  Picardy  Place  into  junction 
with  the  first  line  in  Leith  Walk;  from  the  General 
Post  Office,  along  Waterloo  Place,  Regent  Road,  and 
London  Road  to  Portobello ;  from  the  General  Post 
Office,  along  North  Bridge,  South  Bridge,  Nicolson 
Street,  and  Clerk  Street,  to  Newington  and  Powburn  ; 
from  the  W  end  of  Princes  Street,  by  Lothian  Road 
and  Earl  Grey  Street,  to  Morningside,  and  thence  east- 
ward into  junction  with  the  Newington  line  at  Minto 
Street.  An  omnibus  runs  in  connection  with  the  tram- 
way S3'stem  from  Post  Office  to  Stockbridge.  A  new 
extension  of  tramway  lines  goes  by  Gilraore  Place  to 
Merchiston  and  other  places  westward,  while  another, 
by  way  of  Lauriston,  Forrest  Road,  George  IV.  Bridge, 
and  High  Street,  connects  the  Merchiston  district  with 
the  heart  of  the  town.  For  the  last  six  months  of  1881 
the  average  number  of  horses  employed  was  about  600, 
with  60  cars  and  3  omnibuses.  The  Portobello  section 
of  the  tramway  system  was  long  only  a  single  line  of 
rails  with  passing  curves  for  meeting  cars,  but  in  the 
course  of  1881  was  made  double  the  whole  way.  Par- 
liamentary sanction  has  been  given  to  the  Company  to 
use  mechanical  traction  power  throughout  their  system, 
subject,  however,  to  sanction  being  given  by  the  Board 
of  Trade  and  a  two-thirds  majority  of  the  town  council. 
Miscellaneous  Buildings. — Most  of  the  numerous  hotels 
are  large  and  beautiful.  The  Regent,  in  Waterloo  Place, 
is  a  splendid  edifice,  erected  in  1819  at  a  cost  of  nearly 
£30,000  ;  the  AVaverley,  in  the  same  street,  occupies 
the  old  Post  Office  ;  the  Edinburgh,  in  Princes  Street, 
is  a  very  large  and  finely  embellished  edifice  of  1864  ; 
the  Royal  extends  through  three  edifices,  and  has  a 
sumptuous  interior;  the  Bedford  is  part  of  the  gorgeous 
edifice  of  the  Life  Association  of  Scotland  ;  the  Claren- 
don, in  Princes  Street,  is  the  greater  part  of  an  elegant 
six-story  structure,  comjileted  in  1876,  and  pierced 
through  the  basement  with  the  entrance  to  a  beautiful 
bazaar-hall  arcade  ;  whilst  several  others,  in  the  same 
line  of  street,  compete  with  these  in  extent,  embellish- 
ment, and  other  attractions.  The  Cafe  Royal,  in  West 
Register  Street,  is  a  beautiful,  large,  Italian  edifice  of 
1865  ;  the  Cockburn,  at  the  foot  of  Cockburn  Street,  is 
a  picturesque  structure  in  the  Scottish  Baronial  style  ; 
whilst,  in  the  central  parts  of  the  city,  there  are  others 
whicli  have  more  or  less  of  corresponding  character. 
The  New  Club,  in  Princes  Street,  a  little  W  of  Hanover 
Street,  was  built,  and  is  maintained  for  their  own  ex- 
528 


EDINBURGH 

elusive  use,  by  an  association  of  noblemen  and  gentle- 
men, limited  to  660  in  number,  and  elected  by  ballot ; 
is  a  very  spacious  edifice,  after  designs  by  W.  Burn, 
with  Tuscan  doorway,  projecting  basement  windows, 
stone  balcony  on  curved  trusses,  and  surmounting 
balustrade ;  and  underwent  considerable  enlargement 
about  1865.  The  University  Club,  in  Princes  Street, 
between  Castle  Street  and  Charlotte  Street,  was  erected 
in  1866-67,  after  designs  by  Peddie  &  Kinnear,  at  a  cost 
of  nearly  £14,000  ;  is  in  the  Palladian  style,  with  elegant 
Grecian  details  ;  and  has  a  handsome  interior,  with 
accommodation  for  650  members.  The  United  Service 
Club  in  Queen  Street,  and  the  Northern  Club  in  George 
Street,  are  also  handsome  and  spacious  buildings.  The 
Liberal  Club,  at  the  W  end  of  Princes  Street,  is  an 
imposing  dome-capped  edifice  ;  and  the  new  buildings 
for  the  Conservative  Club  at  112  Princes  Street,  built 
in  1882,  are  of  an  imposing  character. 

The  Masonic  Hall,  on  the  S  side  of  George  Street, 
stands  behind  the  street-line  of  houses,  and  is  entered  by 
a  vestibule  through  the  house  No.  98.  It  was  erected  in 
1858-59  after  a  design  by  David  Bryce,  and  is  a  spacious 
well-arranged  edifice.  The  Masonic  Hall,  on  the  new 
side  of  Blackfriars  Street,  was  built  in  1871,  and  is  a 
substantial  structure  in  the  Scottish  Baronial  stvle. 
The  Oddfellows'  Hall,  on  the  E  side  of  Forrest  Road, 
was  built  in  1872-73,  after  designs  by  J.  C.  Ha}^  at  a 
cost  of  about  £5000  ;  is  in  the  Italian  style,  ^vith  bal- 
cony, several  sculptured  figures,  and  corner  turrets ; 
and  contains  a  principal  apartment  with  accommodation 
for  about  800  persons,  another  apartment  with  accom- 
modation for  300  persons,  and  several  smaller  rooms. 
The  Calton  Convening  Rooms,  at  the  E  end  of  the  N 
side  of  Waterloo  Place,  have  a  one-story  frontage  to  the 
S  and  to  the  E,  adorned  with  Doric  three-quarter 
columns,  and  are  interiorly  adapted  for  public  meetings 
and  popular  exhibitions.  The  Young  Men's  Christian 
Association  building,  on  the  W  side  of  South  St  Andrew 
Street,  was  erected  in  1875,  after  designs  by  George 
Beattie  &  Son,  at  a  cost  of  about  £18,000  ;  is  a  six- 
story  edifice  in  the  Italian  stj^le  ;  and  contains  a  hall 
60  feet  long  and  26  wide,  a  reading-room  26  feet  square, 
a  library,  a  conversation-room,  and  other  apartments. 
The  Catholic  Young  Men's  Institute,  in  St  Mary  Street, 
was  built  in  1869,  after  designs  by  D.  Cousin,  at  a  cost 
of  £4930  ;  is  in  the  old  Scottish  domestic  style  ;  and 
contains  a  hall,  with  accommodation  for  above  900 
persons. 

The  Inland  Revenue  Office  stands  on  the  S  side  of 
Waterloo  Place,  and  is  the  central  building  to  the  W  of 
Regent  Bridge  ;  it  rises  to  the  height  of  four  stories,  and 
is  in  the  Grteco-Italian  style,  harmonious  with  that  of 
the  adjacent  buildings.  The  Royal  Academy  building, 
popularly  known  as  the  Riding  School,  stood  on  the  W 
side  of  Lothian  Road  ;  was  a  large  handsome  edifice,  with 
adjoining  yards  ;  contained  suites  of  apartments  for  the 
Military  and  Naval  Academy,  and  apartments  and  other 
accommodation  for  teaching  equestrian  exercises  ;  but 
was  taken  down  in  the  course  of  the  clearances  for  the 
Caledonian  new  railway  station.  The  Volunteer  Drill 
Hall  occupies  part  of  the  site  of  the  old  city  workhouse, 
off  the  W  side  of  Forrest  Road.  It  was  erected  in  1872 ; 
comprises  a  main  hall  135  feet  long,  96  wide,  12  high  in 
side  walls,  and  46  high  from  the  ground  to  the  roof- 
ridge,  with  segment-circular  roof  supported  on  iron  ribs 
and  glazed  in  three  stretches  ;  and  includes  a  meeting- 
room,  a  store-room  for  2500  rifles,  a  spacious  room  for 
work  and  cleaning,  a  gallery  50  feet  long  and  8  wide 
for  visitors,  and  other  apartments.  The  Militia  Depot 
stands  olf  the  E  side  of  Easter  Road,  adjacent  to  the 
new  northern  line  of  the  North  British  Railway.  It 
was  erected  in  1868 ;  comprises  neat  ranges  of  two-story 
buildings,  for  the  occupancy  of  the  resident  stafl' ;  and 
has  conuiiodious  enclosed  grounds  for  drill  exercise. 

Many  of  the  business  premises,  in  the  principal  tho- 
roughfares, are  both  extensive  and  ornate.  The  arcade, 
in  Princes  Street,  was  opened  in  1876  ;  stands  associated 
with  the  new  Clarendon  Hotel ;  has  an  entrance  through 
the  basement  of  the  hotel  edifice,   13  feet  wide,   sur- 


EDINBURGH 

mounted  by  the  royal  anns ;  and  is  not  a  thoroughfare,  but 
rather  a  fashionable  promenade  bazaar-hall.  It  measures 
upwards  of  100  feet  in  length  and  about  30  in  breadth  ; 
is  floored  with  Austrian  marble  in  alternate  squares  of 
black  and  white,  and  roofed  with  glass  supported  on 
perforated  girders  of  lace-work  pattern,  and  picked  out 
in  gold  and  colours  ;  terminates  in  three  circular-headed 
stained-glass  ■vvindows,  witli  handsome  rope  mouldings 
and  capitals  ;  and  contains,  on  each  side,  seven  elegant 
shops,  each  measuring  17  feet  by  13.  Cowan's  warehouse, 
in  West  Register  Street,  was  erected  in  1865,  after  designs 
by  Beattie  &  Son,  at  a  cost  of  about  £7000  ;  it  is  in  the 
Venetian-Gothic  style,  with  profusion  of  carved  work  ; 
presents  ornamental  fronts  to  the  E,  the  S,  and  the  "W  ; 
and  has  a  height  of  four  stories,  besides  a  sunk  one  and 
an  attic.  Ta}dor  &  Son's  premises,  in  Princes  Street, 
were  erected  in  1869,  after  designs  by  J.  Lessels  ;  are  in 
the  Italian  style,  with  French  features,  and  considerable 
variety  of  detail ;  present  a  fagade  80  feet  long  and  60 
high  to  the  wall  top,  76  feet  to  the  roof-ridge  ;  and 
have  a  basement  story  disposed  in  shops,  and  three 
stories  and  attics  fitted  as  a  hotel.  Jenner  &  Co.'s  pre- 
mises, in  Princes  Street  and  St  David  Street,  comprise 
several  spacious  blocks  of  buildings,  highly  decorated. 

Rows,  ranges,  and  groups  of  working-men's  houses 
were  erected  in  the  years  1872-82,  at  Norton  Park,  Dum- 
biedykes,  East  Montgomery  Street,  Dairy,  andotherplaces 
in  the  city's  outskirts  or  immediate  environs  ;  and  are 
now  so  numerous  that,  had  all  been  built  in  near  neigh- 
bourhood, they  would  have  formed  a  considerable  town. 
They  stand  mostly  in  airy  situations,  with  more  or  less 
of  rural  surrovmdings,  form  generally  symmetrical  ranges 
or  neat  blocks,  and  present  a  striking  contrast  in  struc- 
ture, accommodation,  and  salubrity,  to  the  dense  and 
squalid  dwellings  of  the  lower  classes  in  tho  old  and 
central  parts  of  the  city.  They  were,  to  a  large  extent, 
erected  by  joint-stock  companies  ;  and  have,  from  year 
to  year,  yielded  good  dividends  on  the  subscribed 
capital.  The  grounds  of  Warrender  Park,  S  from  the 
West  Meadows  and  Bruntsfield  Links,  have  been  largely 
built  upon  also,  and  here  many  fine  streets  and  cres- 
cents are  being  formed  of  houses  of  a  superior  class  to 
those  referred  to  above.  The  majority  of  the  houses  in 
the  wynds  and  closes  are  almost  blocked  against  pure 
air  and  a  due  measure  of  light ;  stand  on  steep  inclines, 
with  inconvenient  access  to  the  main  thoroughfares  ;  are 
sectioned,  floor  above  floor,  into  small  separate  domi- 
ciles ;  and  are  in  the  upper  stories  accessible  by  stair- 
cases that  are  steep,  dark,  and  dangerous.  As  many  as 
121  families,  at  the  census  of  1861,  occupied  single- 
roomed  domiciles,  each  without  a  window  ;  as  many  as 
13,209  families  lived  each  in  a  domicile  of  only  one 
apartment ;  and  1530  of  these  families  comprised  each 
from  6  to  15  individuals.  Considerable  relief  from  this 
state  of  things  has  been  aff"orded  by  the  erection  of  the 
new  houses  for  working-men ;  and  corresponding  im- 
provement on  the  architectural  aspects  of  the  city  has 
accrued  partly  from  the  erection  of  these  houses,  and 
partly  from  the  demolitions  and  reconstructions  noticed 
in  a  previous  section,  as  done  under  the  City  Improve- 
ment Act  of  1867. 

Public  Promenades. — Thoroughly  public  promenades 
always  open,  readily  accessible,  containing  'ample  scope 
and  verge  enough '  for  exercise  and  games,  are  not  so 
good  and  abundant  in  Edinburgh  as  they  ought  to  be, 
yet  the  space  for  such  is  much  larger  and  better  than  in 
many  other  populous  towns.  Not  a  few  of  the  public 
thoroughfares,  likewise,  comprising  several  in  tho  Old 
Town,  and  the  majority  in  the  New,  whether  for  walk- 
ing exercise,  for  good  air,  or  for  exquisite  scenery,  are 
eminently  good  public  promenades. 

East  Princes  Street  Gardens  were  first  formed  in  1830, 
and  then  planted  with  77,000  shrubs  and  trees,  under 
the  direction  of  Dr  Patrick  Neill.  When  broken  in 
upon  by  the  extension  of  tho  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow 
Railway,  they  were  re-formed  in  1849-50  at  the  expense 
of  £4400,  received  from  the  railway  company  as  com- 
pensation. They  comprise  much  diversity  of  ground, 
ascending  from  a  deep  centre  over  high  graduated  banks, 
31 


EDINBURGH 

and  are  so  skilfully  and  tastefully  laid  out  as  to  contain, 
within  their  comparatively  narrow  limits,  a  remarkable 
variety  of  promenade,  parterre,  shrubbery,  and  grove. 
A  terrace  about  100  feet  broad,  on  the  same  level  as 
Princes  Street  roadway,  extends  along  their  N  side  ;  is 
traversed  by  a  gravel  walk  20  feet  broad,  and  partly 
occupied  by  the  Scott,  Wilson,  Black,  and  Livingstone 
monuments  ;  and  is  bounded,  along  the  S,  by  a  hand- 
some parapet  wall  4  feet  high,  with  pedestals  at  regular 
intervals  for  six  statues.  A  walk  about  10  feet  wide 
extends  along  the  middle  of  the  face  of  the  N  slope  ; 
and  is  reached,  from  the  ends  of  the  terrace,  by  two 
fine  flights  of  steps,  each  15  feet  wide  at  the  top,  ex- 
panding with  circular  wing  walls  to  nearly  30  feet 
toward  the  bottom.  The  tract  between  the  terrace  and 
that  walk  is  carpeted  with  sward  ;  and  the  lower  tracts 
are  variously  sloping  and  level,  have  intersections  of 
walks  and  interspersions  of  shrubbery,  and  are  separated 
from  the  railway  by  an  ornamental  embankment.  The 
W  end,  comprising  the  eastern  skirts  of  the  Mound,  is 
traversed  by  a  broad  gravel  walk,  connecting  the  N  and 
the  Ssides,  andcommandsthcnceinterestingviewstoward 
the  North  Bridge  and  Calton  Hill.  It  lost  much  of  its 
sylvan  appearance  by  the  operations  for  improving  the 
Mound  about  the  year  1855,  acquiring,  instead,  an 
ornamental  iron  railing  along  the  margin  of  the  broad- 
paved  footpath  then  formed  along  the  Mound.  The  S 
side  rises  more  steeply  and  to  a  higher  elevation  than 
the  N  side ;  is  laid  out  in  a  manner  more  diversified 
and  less  embellished  ;  retains  much  of  the  appearance 
given  it  by  the  planting  of  1830  ;  and  has  narrow  wind- 
ing footpaths,  commanding  good  views.  The  gardens 
contain  one  or  two  bowling-green  plots,  but  are  not 
otherwise  available  for  athletic  sports. 

West  Princes  Street  Gardens,  reclaimed  from  tho 
marshy  and  fetid  remains  of  the  Nor'  Loch  in  that 
quarter,  were  formed,  under  powers  of  a  special  statute, 
in  1816-20.  They  have  a  similar  appearance  to  that  of 
the  East  Princes  Street  Gardens,  but  extend  to  fully 
twice  the  length,  and  ascend  their  southern  acclivity 
to  the  verge  of  the  Castle  esplanade.  They  belonged 
originally,  as  a  common,  to  the  citizens  ;  but  were  al- 
lowed to  become  private  property,  attached  to  the  tene- 
ments in  Princes  Street.  The  town  council  unsuccess- 
fully attempted  about  1852  to  recover  them,  either 
wholly  or  partially,  for  public  use ;  after  which 
they  became  accessible  to  the  public,  at  certain 
hours  on  certain  days  of  the  summer  months,  when 
entertainments  were  given  by  regimental  or  other  music 
bands ;  and  could  also  at  any  time  be  entered  by  respect- 
able strangers  with  keys  easily  obtainable  from  any  of  tho 
hotels  and  principal  shops  in  Princes  Street.  About 
1876  they  were,  on  terms  of  purchase  and  agreement,  ob- 
tained by  the  town  council,  and  thro'wn  completely  open 
to  the  public,  after  undergoing  alterations  and  improve- 
ments. They  exhibit  now  a  kind  and  amount  of  embel- 
lishment not  much  different  from  that  of  the  East  Princes 
Street  Gardens  ;  and  it  is  even  now  (1882)  proposed  to 
add  a  new  feature  to  them  in  the  shape  of  a  covered 
rock  garden  and  fernery,  for  the  erection  of  which 
£1500  have  been  left  by  the  widow  of  the  gentleman 
who  presented  the  Ross  Fountain. 

Calton  Hill  was  formerly  a  common  belonging  to  the 
citizens,  which,  as  such,  suflered  serious  curtailment 
by  the  formation  of  the  Regent  and  the  London  Roads, 
the  construction  of  the  Regent  and  Royal  Terraces,  and 
especially  the  enclosing  of  all  its  gentler  slopes  to  form 
gardens  or  pleasure-grounds  to  the  houses  of  these  ter- 
races and  to  the  High  School ;  so  that  now  little  more 
than  its  mere  crown  is  public  property.  Nevertheless 
it  has  been  so  greatly  improved  there  with  broad,  fine 
walks,  and  made  so  easily  accessible  by  stairs,  gravelled 
paths,  and  a  carriage-way,  as  to  form  one  of  tho  finest 
promenades  in  Great  Britain.  The  walks  and  tho 
carriage-way  were  partly  cut  through  solid  rock  ;  the 
former  making  such  circuits  ami  traverses  round  and 
over  the  crown  as  to  afford  a  full  and  easy  command  of 
the  very  extensive  and  surpassingly  picturesque  pano- 
ramic  views    for   which   the  hill   is    celebrated. — The 

529 


EDINBURGH 

Queen's  Park  far  outrivals  Calton  Hill  in  spaciousness 
— having  a  circuit  of  nearly  5  miles — as  well  as  in 
diversity  and  romance  of  aspect,  due  particularly  to 
the  features  it  derives  from  Salisbury  Crags  and  Arthur's 
Seat.  It  competes  M-ith  it  likewise  in  the  grandeur  of 
views  commanded  by  its  loftier  vantage  -  grounds ; 
excels  it,  too,  in  containing  large  expanses  of  level 
ground,  available  for  athletic  sports  ;  while,  though 
strictly  the  property  of  the  Crown,  and  under  special 
surveillance,  it  is  scarcely  more  restricted  than  if  it  be- 
longed directly  and  entirely  to  the  citizens. 

The  Meadows  extend  west-north-westward  from  the 
northern  verge  of  Newington,  and  measure  nearly  f  mile 
in  length  and  fully  1  furlong  in  mean  breadth.  They 
were  anciently  covered  with  a  lake,  called  the  South  or 
Borough  Loch,  which,  being  gradually  drained  in  the 
17th  century,  degenerated  into  a  marsh,  unsuitcd  to 
any  useful  purpose,  and  injurious  to  the  salubrity  of 
the  environs.  In  1722  they  were  let,  over  their  eastern 
parts,  to  Mr  Thomas  Hope,  under  obligation  to  drain  and 
enclose  them,  which  was  so  effectually  done — the  father 
of  Robert  Burns,  it  is  said,  assisting  in  the  operation 
— that  tliey  received,  over  these  parts,  the  name  of 
Hope  Park,  and  became,  in  the  latter  part  of  last  cen- 
tury, the  favourite  promenade  of  nearly  all  the  literati 
and  the  fashionables  of  the  city.  They  were  after- 
wards, over  their  other  parts,  completely  drained, 
nicely  levelled,  beautifully  enclosed,  clumped  with 
wood,  and  zoned  all  round  and  cut  across  the  middle 
by  broad  level  avenues  between  lines  of  trees  ;  and 
then,  as  a  whole,  partly  disposed  in  archery-ground 
for  the  Queen's  Body  Guard  in  Scotland,  let  partly  for 
drying  clothes,  and  partly  for  grazing  cattle.  They 
acquired  iu  1850  an  ornamental  wide  entrance  from  the 
E  end  of  Lauriston  Place,  and  were  opened  in  1854  to 
general  public  use  for  promenading  and  athletic  sports. 
They  were  subsequently  improved  by  the  formation  of 
footpaths  across  them,  the  construction  of  a  carriage- 
drive  along  their  S  side,  and  various  modifications  of 
their  general  surface,  and  underwent  further  improve- 
ments, in  completion  of  well-considered  plans,  during 
the  five  years  ending  in  1875.  In  1881  a  new  and  or- 
namental entrance  was  erected  opposite  Hope  Park 
Terrace  at  the  expense  of  the  Messrs  Nelson,  and 
further  embellishments  are  being  added  by  the  planting 
of  trees  and  the  formation  of  shrubberies  at  prominent 
parts.  The  hall  of  the  Queen's  Body  Guard  or  Royal 
Company  of  Archers  stands  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Hope  Park,  and  is  a  neat  plain  building.  Bruntsfield 
Links  and  Boroughmuir  are  continuous  with  the  south- 
western side  of  the  Meadows.  Bruntsfield  Links,  or 
Downs,  belong  to  the  city,  and  are  open  to  all  the 
citizens.  They  are  claimed  by  the  golfer,  who  is  tena- 
ciously jealous  of  his  ancient  rights  over  them,  and  they 
were  formerly  used  as  a  parade-ground  for  troops. 

A  large  field  at  Raeburia  Place,  in  Stockbridge,  was 
given  to  the  public  in  1854  by  Mr  Hope  of  Moray  Place, 
under  special  regulations,  as  a, public  promenade  and 
place  of  athletic  sports. 

Baths. — Excellent  facilities  for  summer  sea-bathing 
exist  at  the  parts  of  the  Firth  nearest  the  city,  especially 
at  Granton,  Seaficld,  and  Portobello.  The  dwelling- 
houses,  indeed,  of  even  the  New  Towti  of  Edinburgli, 
excepting  in  the  more  recent  parts  of  it,  are  not  near  so 
generally  provided  with  fixture-baths  as  the  dwelling- 
houses  in  the  new  parts  of  Glasgow  ;  but  an  excellent 
suite  of  safety  swimming-baths,  and  of  other  baths  of 
all  kinds,  was  erected  about  1860  on  the  low  ground 
at  the  foot  of  Pitt  Street ;  while  another  suite  of  swim- 
ming-baths was  erected  about  the  same  time  at  the 
South  Back  of  Canongate.  Good  public  baths,  of 
various  kinds  and  various  extent,  for  the  upper  and 
the  middle  classes,  are  in  several  parts  both  of  the 
city  and  its  environs.  Public  baths  for  the  working- 
clas.ses  were  long  a  desideratum,  though  earnestly  de- 
sired by  many  of  the  working-classes  themselves.  A 
proposal  to  establish  them  by  subscription  was  at  length 
spiritedly  begun  in  1844,  but  somewhat  fiaggingly  carried 
out.    The  chief  suite  of  them  was  fitted  uj)  in  a  tenement 


EDINBURGH 

purchased  for  the  purpose  in  Nicolson  Square.  They  cost 
upwards  of  £1000  beyond  the  amount  of  the  subscrip- 
tions paid  in  or  obtainable  ;  passed  under  the  immediate 
management  of  persons  who  became  bound  for  the  extra 
sum  ;  and  were  so  well  constructed  and  so  much  appre- 
ciated that  nothing  but  the  debt  upon  them  prevented  the 
immediate  extending  and  cheapening  of  baths  for  work- 
ing-men. 

Drainage  and  Cleaning. — The  configuration  of  great 
part  of  the  site  of  the  city,  with  the  inclination  of 
streets  and  alleys,  and  the  descent  to  natural  outlets  for 
water,  is  favourable  to  good  drainage  at  all  seasons,  and 
provides  powerful  natural  flushings  in  times  of  rain ;  yet 
this  has  not  served  to  preserve  certain  portions  from  re- 
markable foulness  of  condition,  and  contributed  nothing, 
but  the  reverse,  to  the  drainage  of  thoroughfares,  or 
other  places  on  dead  levels,  or  in  the  bottoms  of  the 
valleys.  The  artificial  sewerage  system,  throughout  the 
greater  part  of  the  New  Town  and  in  some  modern  parts 
of  the  Old,  is  unexceptionable  in  structure,  ramification, 
and  outlet ;  yet  it  is  checked  or  marred,  more  or  less  in 
most  of  these  quarters,  by  mal-arrangement  in  its  con- 
nection with  houses  or  in  its  intersection  by  open  foul 
drainage  ;  and  a  good  system  of  sewerage,  in  the  other 
parts  of  the  city  and  in  the  outskirts,  is  in  some  cases 
defective  or  wanting.  The  Water  of  Leith,  which 
receives  gi'cat  part  of  the  sewerage,  has  not  water 
enough,  in  times  of  drought,  or  even  in  times  of  moderate 
rain,  to  carry  oft'  impurities  ; — and  often,  for  successive 
weeks,  it  used  to  be  little  else  than  a  great  open  common 
sewer ; — but,  under  an  act  of  parliament  obtained  in  1864, 
it  was  subjected  to  sweeping  improvement  all  round  its 
vicinity  to  the  city  and  onward  to  Leith,  at  a  cost  of 
not  much  short  of  £100,000,  and  is  now  under  the  sur- 
veillance of  a  board  of  commissioners,  comprising  the 
chief  magistrates  and  certain  town  councillors  of  both 
Edinburgh  and  Leith.  The  district  of  St  Leonard's, 
comprising  an  area  of  413  acres,  ac(|uired  for  itself  a 
new  sewerage  system  in  1871  at  a  cost  of  fully  £10,000, 
and  is  drained  by  that  system  to  an  outfall  of  its  own 
in  the  Queen's  Park  opposite  Salisbury  Terrace.  The 
city  still  requires  a  thorough  and  complete  system  of 
main  drainage,  sweeping  down  towards  Leith,  and  having 
such  outfall  as  might  permit  the  sewerage  to  be  utilised 
for  irrigation  on  some  neighbouring  tracts,  or  sold  to 
inland  farmers. 

The  surface-cleaning  of  the  streets,  particidarly  in 
the  removal  of  solid  refuse  from  houses,  is  conducted  in 
a  way  to  yield  the  corporation  an  income  of  about  £7000 
a  year.  Edinburgh  sutiers  little  from  the  dili'used  manu- 
rial  accumulation  which  prevails  in  Glasgow  and 
some  other  large  towns,  and  which  acts  there  as  a 
constant  provocative  of  pestilential  diseases  ;  and  yet, 
through  its  defective  sewerage  system,  it  suffers  pro- 
bably quite  as  much  as  if  manurial  accumulations  were 
permitted  to  be  made.  Ashes,  rubbish,  and  all  occa- 
sional refuse  are  carried  off  daily,  at  stated  hours,  under 
a  code  of  special  regulations,  in  well-appointed  police 
wagons.  The  regulations,  however,  cannot  always  be 
enforced ;  and,  notwithstanding  somewhat  vigorous 
efforts  to  maintain  them,  are  very  extensively  infringed. 
They  do  not  prevent  the  contents  of  many  buckets 
being  emptied  on  the  street,  to  lie  there  perhaps  for 
hours,  or  to  be  widely  scattered  by  bone-gatherers  and 
by  the  winds.  Excrementitious  matters  also,  in  those 
jjarts  of  the  city  where  no  connecting  pipes  exist  be- 
tween the  houses  and  the  sewers,  are  treated  and  carried 
off  in  the  same  manner  as  the  ashes  ;  and  there  the 
nuisance  is  frightful — all  the  more  so  that  these  i)arts 
of  the  city  are  just  the  parts  where  the  population  is 
densest,  or  where  the  houses  are  highest  and  most 
crowded.  Perhaps,  too,  the  general  deposits  of  the  street 
manure,  the  prodigious  heaps  which  are  formed  by  the 
daily  discharge  of  the  wagons,  are  not  far  enough  from 
the  city,  not  secluded  enough  from  the  nearest  suburbs, 
and  not  disposed  of  quickly  enough  to  farmers  ;  so  that 
they  have  been  blamed,  wo  do  not  say  with  what  justice, 
as  an  appreciable  exciting  cause  of  pestilence. 

A  very  large  tract  in  the  eastern  environs,  extending 


EDINBURGH 

all  the  way  from  the  vicinity  of  Holyrood  by  Rcstalrig 
to  the  Firth  of  Forth,  is  disposed  in  foul  water  irriga- 
tion meadows — being  kept  in  a  state  of  constant  swamp 
by  the  ditiusion  over  them  of  tiie  contents  of  great  com- 
mon sewers  from  the  city.  This  irrigation  produces 
indeed  large  crops  of  herbage,  but  is  a  serious  nuisance, 
loathsome  to  look  upon,  horrible  to  the  olfactory  nerves, 
and  probabh',  even  when  the  noxious  gases  arising  from 
it  are  diluted  with  the  pure  air  of  the  surrounding 
high  gi'ounds  not  unaccompanied  with  material  in- 
jury to  the  public  health.  In  winter,  when  the  irri- 
gation is  not  much  practised,  and  the  water  is,  for  the 
most  part,  either  diluted  with  rains,  or  allowed  to  flow 
directly  to  the  Firth,  very  little  disagreeable  odour 
arises  from  these  meadows ;  but  in  summer,  when  the 
irrigation  is  vigorously  prosecuted,  a  strong  odour, 
sometimes  a  heavy  stench,  is  diffused ;  and  in  dry, 
sunny,  hot  weather,  in  particular — especially  if  a  keen 
wind  blow  from  the  E,  wafting  up  to  the  city  the  ex- 
halations from  their  entire  length  of  the  meadows, 
and  their  greatest  breadth,  while  the  exhalations  are 
held  close  to  the  grovmd  by  means  of  thick  fogs — the 
odour  becomes  comparatively  far  spread  and  disgust- 
ingly ofiensive.  Dr  Littlejohn,  in  one  of  his  reports 
on  the  sanitary  condition  of  the  city,  says, — 'The 
easterly  are  our  most  prevailing  winds,  which  pass  across 
these  meadows  before  they  sweep  over  the  New,  and  the 
more  elevated  portions  of  the  Old,  Town  ;  and  it  has  been 
plausibly  conjectured  that  the  insalubrity  of  these  winds 
depends  largely  on  this  contamination.  But,  at  any  rate, 
a  city  surrounded  by  swamps  cannot  be  regarded  as  in  a 
sound  sanitary  condition  ;  and  it  is  highly  probable  that 
a  great  part  of  the  mortality  of  the  Abbey  and  some  of 
the  poorer  districts  of  the  Old  Town  is,  in  a  great  measure, 
owing  to  the  unhealthy  character  of  these  breezes  which 
blow  so  continuously  during  many  months. ' 

Government. — Edinburgh  was  made  a  royal  burgh  by 
David  I.,  and  was  governed  from  1583  till  1856  by  a 
council  consisting  of  17  merchants,  6  deacons,  and  2 
trades'  representatives — from  whom  were  chosen  a  lord 
provost,  a  dean  of  guild,  treasurer,  and  4  bailies ;  it 
then  had  the  character  of  a  close  burgh,  with  some  little 


Seal  of  Edinburgh. 

admixture  of  popular  representation.  Since  1856  it  has 
been  governed,  in  terms  of  a  special  act  of  that  year,  by 
39  popularly  elected  councillors,  from  whom  are  chosen 
a  lord  provost,  a  dean  of  guild,  a  treasurer,  and  6  bailies. 
The  councillors  are  elected  by  the  burgh  constituency, 
divided  into  thirteen  wards,  three  by  each  ward,  and  one- 
third  of  them  retire  from  office  every  year,  but  are 
eligible  for  re-election.  The  constituency  amounted,  in 
1862,  to  8833 ;  but,  nnder  the  extension  of  the  franchise 


EDINBURGH 

in  ISO",  it  amounted,  in  1871,  to  23,735;  in  1876,  to 
26,180  ;  in  1881,  to  28,894  ;  and  that  constituency  also 
sends  two  members  to  parliament.  The  lord  provost  ia 
elected  by  the  council  for  a  term  of  three  years,  and  is 
eligilile,  at  tlie  expiry  of  his  term,  for  immediate  re- 
election. He  bears  the  title  of  Kiglit  Honourable,  and  is, 
ex  officio,  lord-lieutenant  of  tlie  county  of  the  city,  liigh 
sheriff  of  the  royalty,  and  has  precedence  of  all  official 
persons  within  his  jurisdiction.  The  other  magistrates 
retire  at  the  expiration  of  one  year,  and  cannot  be  re- 
elected till  the  end  of  another  year,  yet  may  remain  in 
the  council  from  year  to  year  by  filling  the  dillerent 
olHces  in  succession.  The  magistrates,  prior  to  the  Act  of 
1856,  had  ordinary  burgh  jurisdiction,  civil  and  criminal, 
over  only  the  ancient  roj-alty  and  the  extended 
royalty  ;  but  now  it  extends  over  all  the  parliamentary 
burgh.  They  also,  within  the  same  bounds,  have  ex- 
clusive jurisdiction  as  to  weights  and  measures,  and  co- 
ordinate jurisdiction  with  the  sheriff  as  to  offences 
against  the  public-houses  Act ;  they  likewise  wield  the 
authority  formerly  possessed  by  the  police  commis- 
sioners, and  form  committees  to  carry  out  police  acts ; 
are  also  commissioners  of  supply  for  the  city,  and  sit 
in  the  commission  of  the  peace,  comprising  about  160 
members,  for  the  county  of  the  city,  which  extends 
beyond  the  parliamentary  burgh  toward  the  Firth  of 
Forth.  The  towm  council  now  act  as  city  road  trust, 
and  also  govern  Trinity  Hospital ;  unite  with  the  city 
parochial  clergy  to  govern  Heriot's  Hospital ;  a])point 
1  of  the  assessors  and  4  of  the  curators  of  Edinburgh 
University  ;  and  were  also  formerly  patrons  of  the  High 
School,  now  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  city  scliool- 
board.  The  lord  provost,  2  bailies,  and  4  councillors 
likewise  are  members  of  the  Water  of  Leith  sewerage 
commission  ;  the  lord  provost,  2  bailies,  the  dean  of 
guild,  and  12  councillors  are  members  of  the  board  of 
trustees  under  the  Edinburgh  and  District  Waterworks 
Acts  of  1869  and  1874  ;  and  all  the  magistrates  and 
councillors  are  trustees  under  the  City  Improvement  Act 
of  1867.  The  chief  committees  of  the  town  council  are 
the  lord  provost's,  including  watching  and  coal-weigh- 
ing ;  Trinity  Hospital ;  markets,  including  slaughter- 
houses ;  plans  and  works,  including  fire-engines  and 
police-house  department ;  cleaning  and  lighting,  includ- 
ing workshops ;  streets  and  buildings,  including  drain- 
age, public  parks,  and  bleaching  greens  ;  education, 
public  health,  law,  treasurer's,  and  police  appeals.  The 
town  council  formerly  held  the  patronage  of  a  number 
of  the  University  chairs,  but  were  deprived  of  tliis  by 
the  University  Act  of  1858  ;  and  also  the  patronage  of 
thirteen  of  the  city  churches,  which  was  taken  from 
them  by  the  Annuity  Abolition  Act  of  1860. 

Ordinary  courts  for  the  city,  in  all  the  departments  of 
the  burgh  jurisdiction,  are  held  daily ;  a  sequestration 
court  for  the  city  is  held  in  the  Council  Chamber  every 
Friday  ;  and  a  tenmerk  court  for  the  city  and  county  of 
the  city  is  held  in  the  Council  Chamber  every  Monday. 
The  sequestration  court  disposes  of  summary  cases,  takes 
alfidavits  and  declarations  ;  and  the  tenmerk  court  deter- 
mines claims  of  servants'  wages  to  any  amount,  and 
claims  of  other  kinds  for  sums  not  exceeding  lis.  l^d. 
A  justice  of  peace  small  debt  court  for  the  city  and 
county  of  tlie  city  is  held  in  the  Council  Chamber  every 
Monday  ;  a  justice  of  peace  small  debt  court  for  the 
county  at  large  is  also  held  every  Jlonday ;  and  a 
sheriff  small  debt  court  for  the  county  is  held  in  the 
sheriff  court-house  every  Wednesday.  The  sheriff  ordi- 
nary courts  for  the  county  also  are  held  in  the  slieritF 
court-house  every  Wednesday  and  Friday. 

The  Court  of  Session  in  Parliament  House  is  the  sup- 
reme civil  court  of  Scotland,  and  takes  cognisance  of 
the  same  kind  of  cases  as,  in  England,  are  determined 
severally  by  the  Court  of  Chancery,  the  vice-chancellor 
and  ^Master  of  the  Rolls,  Courts  of  Queen's  Bench, 
and  of  Common  Pleas  and  Exchequer,  Court  of 
Admiralty,  with  excejition  of  prize  cases.  Court  of 
Doctors'  Commons,  and  the  Court  of  Bankruptcy  ;  and 
consists  at  present  of  a  Lord  President,  Lord  Justice-clerk, 
and  ten  other  judges.     The  Lord  President  and  three 

531 


EDINBURGH 

judges  form  the  first  division,  the  Lord  Justice-clerk  and 
two  judges  form  the  second  division,  of  the  court,  these 
two  divisions  being  termed  the  Inner  House  ;  the  re- 
maining live  judges  sit  all  sepai\itely  from  one  another, 
and  are  severally  lords  ordinary,  and  aggregately  the 
Outer  House  ;  and  the  latest  appointed  attends  particu- 
larly to  the  business  of  the  bill  chamber  or  proceedings 
of  the  nature  of  injunction  or  stay  of  process,  which 
require  summary  interposition.  Each  of  the  vast 
majority  of  cases  brought  into  the  Court  of  Session  is 
tried,  in  the  first  instance,  by  one  of  the  lords  ordinary, 
and  may  either  terminate  in  his  judgment  on  it,  or 
may  be  appealed  to  either  division  of  the  Inner  House. 
No  appeal  lies  from  one  division  to  the  other,  or  from  one 
division  to  the  whole  court  ;  yet  either  division  may 
call  in  the  opinion  of  the  other  judges,  and  whatever 
judgment  may  be  given,  either  by  one  of  the  divisions 
or  by  the  whole  court,  when  required  to  conjoin 
opinion,  is  final  as  to  all  authority  in  Scotland,  but 
may  be  appealed  to  the  House  of  Lords.  The  Lord 
President,  the  Lord  Justice-clerk,  and  five  other  judges 
form  the  High  Court  of  Justiciary,  having  supreme 
criminal  jurisdiction  ;  they  sit  in  Edinburgh,  at  occa- 
sional times,  for  despatching  criminal  cases  belonging 
to  the  three  Lothians,  together  with  such  cases  as, 
from  their  importance  or  other  reason,  may  be 
brought  from  any  of  the  assize  towns  to  Edinburgh  for 
trial ;  and  they  distribute  themselves  every  year  dur- 
ing the  vacations  of  the  Court  of  Session  for  holding 
assizes  at  Jedburgh,  Dumfries,  Ayr,  Glasgow,  Inverary, 
Stirling,  Perth,  Dundee,  Aberdeen,  and  Inverness. 
The  four  senior  lords  ordinary  form  a  court  under  an 
act  of  1868,  for  hearing  appeals  from  sheriff-courts  ;  one 
of  the  lords  ordinary  transacts  the  business  of  the  Court 
of  Exchequer  ;  and  one  that  of  the  Court  of  Teinds, 
embracing  all  questions  as  to  modification  of  the 
stipends  of  the  clergy,  and  the  liabilities  of  parties  sub- 
ject to  the  payment  of  the  stipend ;  and  three  judges 
form  the  Registration  Appeal  Court. 

The  High  Court  of  Admiralty  consisted,  after  the 
Union,  of  a  judge  appointed  by  the  lord  vice-admiral  of 
Scotland,  and  functionaries  of  inferior  jurisdiction 
appointed  by  the  judges  ;  and,  in  civil  causes,  was  sub- 
ject to  review  by  the  Court  of  Session.  An  admiralty 
jurisdiction  was  possessed  also  by  the  city  magistrates 
over  the  county  of  the  city,  and  to  the  mid  waters  of  the 
Firth  of  Forth,  limited  on  the  W  by  a  line  drawn  from 
Wardie  brow  to  the  Mickrie  stone,  and  on  the  E  by  a 
line  drawn  from  the  extremity  of  the  Pentland  Hills  to 
the  middle  of  the  Firth  E  of  Inchkeith.  The  com- 
missary court,  or  head  consistorial  court  of  Scotland, 
was,  as  to  its  business,  nearly  all  merged  in  the  Court  of 
Session  in  1830.  Two  deputies,  with  office  chamber  in 
the  New  Register  House,  perform  the  duties  of  the  Lyon 
court,  or,  more  strictly,  of  the  sinecure  office  of  Lyon- 
King-at-Arms.  The  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs,  a  court 
constituted  in  the  reign  of  James  III. ,  meets  annually  on 
the  first  Tuesday  of  April  in  Edinburgh,  and  is  presided 
over  by  the  lord  provost  of  the  city.  It  consists  of  dele- 
gates chosen  year  by  year  by  the  several  royal  burghs, 
and  possesses  all  tlte  characters  of  a  corporation,  with 
qualities  and  pri\'ileges  which  have  been  conferred  by 
statute.  It  has  no  funds,  yet  possesses  a  statutory  "power 
to  assess  the  burghs  annually  for  the  supplies  of  the 
current  year ;  discusses  and  determines  questions  of 
trade  affecting  the  interests  of  the  burghs  ;  and,  before 
dissolving  itself  at  the  end  of  its  sittings,  appoints  a 
committee,  who  wield  its  powers  till  the  meeting  of  next 
year.  Three  portions  of  the  city — Canongate,  Ports- 
burgh,  and  Calton — situated  beyond  the  old  royalty, 
but  lying  contiguous  to  the  old  streets,  had  formerly 
separate  burgh  jurisdictions,  but  were  annexed  to  the 
city -burgh  by  the  Municipal  Extension  Act  of  1856.  A 
trivial  separate  jurisdiction  over  the  precincts  of  Holy- 
rood  still  exists,  and  there  is  an  ordinary  court  on  the 
first  Saturday  of  every  month. 

Police. — After  the  Batth;  of  Flodden,  the  citizens 
began  voluntarily  to  perform  the  duty  of  what  was 
caQed  the  watching  and  warding  of  the  city,  and  did  it 
532 


EDINBURGH 

in  rotations  of  four.  In  1648,  a  paid  guard  of  60  men, 
with  a  captain  and  two  lieutenants,  was  appointed  for 
the  duty  ;  but  it  proved  distasteful  to  the  inhabitants, 
and  the  voluntary  S3'stera  was  resumed.  About  1689, 
there  was  raised,  under  authority  of  an  Act  of  Parliament, 
another  paid  body,  126  in  number,  which  received  the 
name  of  the  town-guard,  and  had  its  I'cndezvous  in  the 
lower  portion  of  the  Old  Tolbooth.  This  body  perambu- 
lated the  streets  at  night,  clothed  in  old  military 
costume,  with  long  blue  coats  and  cocked  hats,  each 
man  carrying  a  huge  Lochaber  axe.  A  militia  regiment, 
called  the  trained  bands,  was  contemporaneous  with  the 
town-guard,  comprised  16  companies  of  100  men  each, 
and  had  the  lord  provost  as  colonel ;  but  was  called  out 
only  on  great  occasions,  such  as  for  some  state  pageant 
or  on  the  anniversary  of  the  King's  birthday.  A  better 
system  was  inaugurated  in  1805,  improved  in  1812 
and  1822,  and  matured  in  1848,  which  acquired,  and 
continues  to  retain,  all  the  characteristics  of  the  best 
modern  police  organisation.  It  served,  till  1856,  not  only 
for  all  the  parliamentary  burgh,  but  also  for  a  tract  to 
the  N  of  it ;  was  originally  administered  by  commis- 
sioners, some  ex-officers,  some  elected  by  certain  public 
bodies,  and  others  elected  by  rate-payers.  By  the 
Municipal  Extension  Act  of  1856,  the  administration  was 
transferred  to  the  magistrates  and  town  council,  and  re- 
lieved from  the  charge  of  the  northern  tract,  which  was 
assigned  to  the  police  district  of  Leith.  The  force  consists 
of  415  men  of  all  ranks,  with  a  chief  constable  at  a  salary 
of  £600.  The  court  department  comprises  the  city 
magistrates,  the  county  sheriff  and  sheriff's  substi- 
tutes, a  public  prosecutor  and  clerk,  clerk  of  court 
and  depute-clerk,  three  superintendents,  lieutenants, 
inspectors,  and  a  court  sergeant ;  and  the  civil  de- 
partment comprises  the  chief  constable,  medical  officer 
of  health,  burgh  engineer,  inspector  of  lighting  and 
cleaning,  inspector  of  nuisances,  master  of  fire-engines, 
inspector  of  markets,  inspector  of  dealers  in  coals,  a 
treasurer,  a  collector  of  assessments,  an  accountant- 
auditor,  a  law  agent,  and  several  other  minor  officials. 
Stations,  subsidiary  to  the  head  police  office  in  High 
Street,  are  at  Fountainbridge,  Canongate,  St  James 
Street,  St  Leonard's,  and  Stockbridge  ;  but  they  are 
merely  lock-ups,  each  in  charge  of  a  sergeant  station- 
keeper  ;  and  the  one  at  Fountainbridge  contains  only 
very  indifferent  cells,  inferior  to  those  in  small  pro- 
vincial burghs.  Another  station  was  added  to  these  in 
1874  at  Torphichen  Street,  and  was  built  in  the  style  of 
old  Scottish  architecture  at  a  cost  of  £4000.  All  are  in 
communication  with  each  other  by  telegraphic  wires. 
The  revenues  and  expenditures  will  afterwards  be  noticed 
under  the  head  of  finances. 

Suh-MunicijMl  Bodies.  —  The  Guildry  Court  com- 
prises the  lord  dean  of  guild,  the  old  dean,  10  coun- 
cillors, a  clerk  and  extractor,  a  master  of  works,  a 
procurator -fiscal,  and  2  officers  ;  and  the  guildry 
council  comprises  the  lord  dean  of  guild,  15  councillors, 
a  secretary,  a  treasurer,  and  an  officer.  The  juris- 
diction of  this  court  was  at  one  time  very  extensive, 
and  included  mercantile  and  maritime  causes ;  now, 
however,  its  chief  duty  is  to  see  that  all  buildings  are 
according  to  law,  neither  encroaching  on  private  pro- 
perty nor  on  the  public  streets ;  and  also  that  houses 
in  danger  of  falling  be  taken  down  ;  no  building  can  be 
erected  in  the  burgh  without  its  sanction.  The  Mer- 
chant Company  was  constituted  by  royal  charter  in 
1681,  embracing  'the  then  haill  iiresent  merchants, 
burgesses,  <<nd  gild  brethren  of  the  burgh  of  Edinburgh, 
who  were  i^^jporters  or  sellers  of  cloths,  stuffs,  or  other 
merchandise  for  the  apparel  or  wear  of  the  bodies  of  men 
or  women,  for  themselves  and  successors  in  their  said 
trade  in  all  time  comeing. '  They  received  ratification  by 
Act  of  Parliament  in  1693,  a  second  royal  charter  at  a 
subsequent  (late,  and  regulating  ratifications  by  two 
other  Acts  of  Parliament.  The  latest  of  these,  in  May 
1827,  admits,  'n  terms  of  these  ratifications,  all  persons 
'being  merchants,  burgesses,  and  guild  brethren,  or 
entitled  to  be  chosen  merchant-councillors,  or  magis- 
trates of  the  citv  of  Edinburgh.'    It  charges  £63  as  the 


EDINBURGH 

rate  of  entry-money,  possesses  property  and  funds 
yielding  about  £1100  a  year,  and  expended  chiefly  in 
aiding  ^vidows  and  decayed  members,  and  is  managed 
by  a  master,  12  assistants,  treasurer,  secretary,  and 
law  agent,  an  accountant-auditor,  a  chamberlain,  a 
collector,  and  Avidows'  fund  trustees.  The  Trades'  Cor- 
porations were  formerly  bodies  wielding  much  influence 
and  power  in  the  community  ;  amounted  to  thirteen 
under  a  convenery,  and  represented  in  the  town  council, 
with  two  others  standing  apart  from  the  convenery  and 
the  town  council  representation  ;  and  now  form  de- 
cayed bodies,  all  still  choosing  their  own  deacons.  The 
thirteen  under  the  convenery  are  waulkers,  constituted 
by  seal  of  cause  in  1500  ;  skinners,  by  seals  of  cause  in 
1586  and  1630  ;  furriers,  by  acts  of  council  in  1593  and 
1665  ;  goldsmiths,  by  seal  of  cause  in  1581,  and  crown 
charters  in  1586  and  1687  ;  hammermen,  by  seal  of 
cause  in  1483  ;  wrights,  by  act  of  council  in  1475  ; 
masons,  by  act  of  council  in  1475  ;  tailors,  by  seals  of 
cause  in  1500,  1531,  and  1584,  and  by  royal  charters  in 
1531  and  1594  ;  baxters  or  bakers,  of  date  before  1522  ; 
fleshers,  by  seal  of  cause  in  1488  ;  cordiners,  by  seals  of 
cause  in  1440  and  1479,  and  by  crown  charter  in  1598  ; 
websters,  by  seals  of  cause  in  1475  and  1520  ;  and 
bonnet-makers,  by  seals  of  cause  in  1530  and  1684. 
The  two  other  corporations  are  candlemakers,  con- 
stituted by  deeds  of  1517,  1597,  and  1695,  and  barbers, 
by  deed  of  1722.  A  remnant  of  incorporated  trades, 
with  a  convener,  also  exists  in  the  ancient  burgh  of 
Calton ;  and  remnants  of  eight  incorporated  trades, 
with  a  convener,  under  a  common  royal  charter  of 
1863,  exist  in  Canongate.  The  High  Constables,  in- 
stituted in  1611,  are  a  1  numerous  body  available  for 
aid  in  preserving  the  public  peace  in  cases  of  emergency, 
and  are  ruled  by  a  head  functionary  called  the  moderator, 
and  have  thirteen  captains,  one  for  each  of  the  thirteen 
wards  of  the  parliamentary  burgh. 

Fi'oaTices. — The  city  corporation  revenue  is  now  de- 
rived principally  from  landed  property,  feu-duties,  and 
market  dues ;  but  was  formerly  derived  also  from  the 
shore-dues  of  Leitb,  from  imposts  on  wines  and  malt 
liquors,  from  the  annuity-tax  for  ministers'  stipends, 
and  from  the  seat-rents  of  the  citv  churches.  The 
amount  of  it  in  1788  was  about  XIO",  000  ;  in  1841-42, 
£19,884  ;  in  1853-54,  £33,247  ;  in  1870-71,  £36,521  ; 
in  1881-82,  £37,757.  The  value  of  the  whole  heritable 
and  movable  property  in  1833 — exclusive  of  the  Leith 
dues,  the  church  patronage,  the  High  School,  council 
chambers,  and  the  court-rooms — was  £271,657  ;  yet  in 
that  year  the  corporation  had  long  lain  under  heavy 
embarrassment,  and  was  declared  insolvent.  No  actual 
emoezzlement  or  fraudulent  malversation,  but  merely 
imprudent  management,  over-sanguine  expectations  of 
increasing  revenue,  profuse  expenditure  for  civic  parade 
and  entertainments,  and  extravagant  outlay  on  public 
buildings  and  public  works,  could  be  charged  as 
causing  the  disastrous  state  of  the  finances ;  yet  these 
were  cumulatively  such  as  to  require  prompt  and 
permanent  rectification,  quite  as  much  as  if  the 
causes  had  been  of  a  graver  kind.  A  debt  to  govern- 
ment of  no  less  than  £228,374  for  the  works  of 
Leith  docks  had  recently  been  contracted,  other  debts 
to  the  amount  of  £407,181  were  due  at  the  insol- 
vency, and  these  .stood  contrasted  with  a  total  debt  of 
only  JE78,164  in  1723.  An  act  of  parliament  legalis- 
ing a  settlement  was  obtained  in  1838  ;  and  this 
relieved  the  corporation  from  all  responsibility  with 
the  Leith  docks,  assigned  a  certain  annual  payment  from 
the  dock  revenues  in  aid  of  Edinburgh,  and  arranged 
that  the  public  creditors  of  the  city  should  receive  bonds 
bearing  3  per  cent,  of  perpetual  annuity,  that  the  bonds 
should  be  transferable,  and  be  redeemable  only  by  pay- 
ment of  the  full  sum,  or  by  purchasing  the  bonds  at 
their  market  value.  Since  1838  bonds  have  been  can- 
celled representing  £70,600  of  debt  and  £2118  of 
annuity;  there  being  still  outstanding  in  Aug.  1881 
bonds  representing  £314,435,  16s.  8d.  of  city  debt, 
£9433,  Is.  6d.  of  annuity  being  payable  thereon. 
Other  additions  to  the   corporation   liabilities,  to  the 


EDINBURGH 

aggregate  amount  of  £96,557,  arose  out  of  respectively 
the  Cattle  Market  Act  of  1844,  the  Com  Market  Act 
of  1847,  the  Slaughter-houses  Act  of  1850,  the  Annuity- 
tax  Abolition  Act  of  1860,  and  the  Amendment  Act  of 
the  Annuity-tax  Abolition  Act  of  1860.  What  remained 
of  all  these  liabilities  at  1  Aug.  1871  was  only 
£338,145,  16s.  8d.  of  principal,  or  £10,144,  7.s.  6d. 
of  annuity  or  interest,  under  the  act  of  1838  ;  £5735, 
14s.  7d.  of  principal,  or  £229,  8s.  7d.  of  annuity  or  in- 
terest, under  the  act  of  1850  ;  and  £53,675  of  principal, 
or  £1878,  12s.  6d.  of  annuity  or  interest,  under  the 
act  of  1870. 

The  gross  amount  of  municipal  revenue  for  the  year 
ending  1  Aug.  1881  was  made  up  as  follows  : — Creditors' 
account,  £17,987,  8s.  9d.  ;  jj^per  municipal  account, 
£11,578, 18s.  6d.  ;  Waterof  Leith  sewerage  fund,  £1101, 
14s.  2d.  ;  city  clerk's  fee  fund,  £1724,  14s.  lOd.  ;  regis- 
tration of  births,  deaths,  and  marriages,  £2065,  6s.  5d.  ; 
valuation  of  lands,  etc.,  £2131,  lis.  ;  registration  of 
voters,  £1653,  5s.  5d.  ;  markets  and  customs,  £13,419, 
17s.  6|d.  ;  slaughter  houses,  £4162,  14s.  0|d.  ;  Trinity 
Hospital,  £3867,  2s.  9d.  ;  which,  with  the  revenue  from  35 
minor  trusts,  gave  a  total  revenue  of  £71,047,  19s.  l^d., 
against  an  expenditure  on  the  same  trusts  of  £62,911, 
10s.  O^d.  The  Veterinary  College  trust  income  was 
£1194,  4s.  4d.  ;  expenditure,  £1446,  6s.  6d. 

The  police  revenue  for  the  year  ending  15  May  1881 
was  £95,764,  6s.  8d.  in  current  expenditure,  £2172, 
3s.  6d.  in  capital  expenditure,  £18,  8s.  6d.  sinking 
fund — for  general  police  purposes ;  £20,558,  9s.  6d- 
streets  and  public  safety ;  £5131,  Os.  9d.  current  ex- 
penditure, £2540  capital  expenditure — for  general  im- 
provements ;  £4243,  17s.  5d.  for  sewers  and  drains ; 
£2827,  14s.  3d.  for  public  health;  allowances  in 
watching  department,  £264,  6s.  6d.  — total  revenue 
£142,520,  7s.  l^d.,  against  an  expenditure  of  £169,409, 
7s.  3d. 

The  total  amount  of  revenue  in  the  two  departments, 
police  and  municipal,  was  £246,141,  12s.  lOd. ,  but  that 
suff"ered  deduction  of  capital  sums  in  the  mimicipal  de- 
partment of  £3457,  3s.  Id.,  in  improvements  depart- 
ment of  £6166,  10s.,  in  police  department  of  £4712, 
3s.  6d. ,  and  therefore  amounted  practically  only  to 
£231,805,  16s.  3d.,  which  was  thus  classified  in  regard 
to  its  destination  or  uses  into  six  several  departments — 
municipal,  inclusive  of  city,  markets,  and  slaughter- 
house revenues,  £40,513,  18s.  0|d. ;  police,  inclusive  of 
watching,  lighting,  cleaning,  fire-engines,  public  parks, 
sewers,  public  health,  etc.,  £137,543,  17s.  14d.  ;  im- 
provements, under  act  of  1867,  £24,778,  6s. ;  registra- 
tion, valuation,  inspection,  etc.,  £7372,  7s.  5d.  ;  trust 
revenues,  inclusive  of  Trinity  Hospital,  etc.,  £11,111, 
2s.  3d.  ;  and  other  revenues  transferred  from  one 
account  to  another,  £10,486,  5s.  4|d. 

The  income  and  the  expenditure  of  the  city  improve- 
ment trust  are  classified  into  two  accounts,  the  cost 
account  and  the  revenue  account ;  and,  in  the  year  end- 
ing 2  Aug.  1875,  were  as  follow : — The  income,  under 
the  cost  account,  comprises  £16,524,  19s.  lid.  for  pro- 
perties sold  off  or  forming  roadways,  £695,  7s.  2d.  of 
the  year's  surplus  on  the  revenue  account,  £15,000 
from  the  sinking  fund  for  discharge  of  loans,  and 
£193,984,  Is.  of  loans  on  mortgages,  etc. ;  the  expendi- 
ture, under  the  cost  account,  comprised  £42,753, 14s.  4d. 
for  properties  acquired  and  in  connection  with  the  pur- 
chases, and  £8669,  lis.  8d.  for  removal  of  old  build- 
ings, disposal  of  building  areas,  and  formation  of  road- 
waj's,  drains,  etc.  ;  the  income  on  the  revenue  account 
comprised  £20,656,  5s.  8d.  of  assessments,  and  £723, 
7s.  3d.  of  rents  and  ground-annuals ;  and  the  expendi- 
ture, on  the  revenue  account,  comprised  £1395,  15s.  6d. 
for  management  and  collection,  £7374,  10s.  3d.  for  in- 
terest and  feu-duties,  and  £11,914  of  contribution  to 
the  sinking  fund.  The  total  receipts  from  1867  till  2 
Aug.  1875  were  £197,193,  7s.  5d. ;  the  total  expenditure, 
during  the  same  period,  was  £383,565,  15s.  4d.  ;  and  the 
amount  at  credit  of  the  sinking  fund,  at  2  Aug.  1875, 
was  £7611,  13s.  Id.  In  1881  this  account  stood  as  fol- 
lows:—revenue,  £31,379,  2s.  3d.  ;  expenditure,  £14,314, 

533 


EDINBURGH 

3s.  Id.  ;  sinking  fund,  £3995,  13s.  5d.,  leaving  a  gross 
balance  against  the  scheme  of  £108,887,  18s.  4d. 

The  yearly  rental  of  the  parliamentary  burgh,  since 
the  passing  of  the  valuation  act  in  1855,  has  increased 
more  or  less  from  year  to  vcar.  The  amount,  in  1855-56, 
was  £761,863,  9s.  Id.  ;' 1860-61,  £844,542,  4s.  Id.; 
1865-66,  £1,003,793,  8s.  4d.  ;  1870-71,  £1,214,046, 
Os.  lOd.  ;  1875-76,  £1,419,043,  15s.  9d.  ;  1880-81, 
£1,727,740,  15s.  4d. ;  showing  a  total  increase  since 
1855  of  £965,877,  6s.  3d. 

Social  Condition. — Edinburgh  is  strictly  the  metropolis 
of  Scotland,  the  centre  of  everything  national  which 
remains  to  it  since  the  union  of  its  crown  and  its  parlia- 
ment ^vith  those  of  England.  It  is  the  principal  seat 
of  the  administration  of  justice  for  the  whole  country, 
the  meeting-place  of  the  supreme  courts  of  the  several 
religious  denominations,  the  fountain-head  of  scientific 
and  literary  activity,  the  seat  of  the  greatest  of  the 
Scottish  universities  and  of  numerous'first-class  schools, 
and  the  focus  of  influences  of  all  kinds  over  the  entire 
country.  The  cit}'  contains  so  many  people  con- 
nected with  these  interests,  and  draws  such  large  num- 
bers of  the  refined  classes  of  society,  as  visitors  either 
for  business  or  for  pleasure,  that  the  population,  in  the 
average  months  of  any  year,  exhibits  a  proportion  con- 
nected with  intellectual  matters  almost  as  large  as  the 
population  of  Glasgow  or  Manchester  exhibits  in  con- 
nection with  cotton  manufacture.  The  status  of  the 
city  is  truly  national,  or  strictly  Scottish.  '  Nothing,' 
remarks  Mr  Lorimer,  '  can  be  more  erroneous  than  to 
liken  Edinburgh  to  such  places  as  Bath  or  Cheltenham, 
or  any  of  the  mere  pleasure -towns  of  England.  Edin- 
burgh, after  her  quiet  fashion,  is  a  busy  place  enough, 
and,  London  excepted,  unquestionably  fulfils  the  idea 
of  a  capital  more  than  any  other  city  in  the  United 
Kingdom.  She  has  nothing  of  that  air  of  a  proconsular 
residence  which,  while  it  confers  on  Dublin  a  certain 
external  splendour,  unfortunately  renders  her  more  like 
to  what  we  imagine  Calcutta  or  Monti'eal,  than  to  the 
capital  of  any  European  country,  however  small.  There 
is  no  foreign  ruling  class  in  Edinburgh  ;  what  she  has 
is  Scotch,  and  what  Scotland  has  is  hers.  The  true 
centre  of  Scottish  life,  from  her,  as  from  the  heart  of 
the  land,  the  life-blood  of  Scotland  issues  forth,  and  to 
her  it  returns  freely  again.  Every  Scotchman  finds  in 
her  a  common  centre  for  his  sympathies.  The  inhabi- 
tants of  Glasgow,  Aberdeen,  Dundee,  Perth,  and  the 
like,  have  no  bond  of  union  other  than  as  the  inhabi- 
tants of  a  common  country ;  but  every  man  of  them 
feels  that  he  has  a  tie  to  Edinburgh.  It  is  to  her  that 
he  looks  for  his  news,  his  praise,  his  influence,  his 
justice,  and  his  learning.  And  there  is  always  a  large 
body  of  sojourners  within  her  walls  who  compose  a 
fluctuating,  but,  as  regards  both  wealth  and  po.sition, 
by  no  means  an  important  part  of  her  population. 
These  persons,  we  believe,  are  attracted  hither  for  the 
most  part  by  one  or  other  of  the  following  causes — the 
beauty  of  the  place,  the  excellence  and  cheapness  of  the 
elementary  education  which  they  can  here  procure  for 
their  families,  and  the  prospect  which  Edinburgh 
society  holds  out  of  their  being  able  to  gratify  those 
refined  and  cultivated  tastes  which  they  may  have  else- 
where formed. ' 

The  city  has  a  calm,  steady  character,  in  keeping  with 
the  predominance  of  legal,  educational,  literary,  and 
artistic  pursuits,  from  which  it  derives  its  chief  main- 
tenance, and  contrasts  broadly  with  the  fluctuations, 
excitements,  and  mercantile  convulsions,  which  produce 
so  much  vicissitude  in  manufacturing  to'wns.  '  Edin- 
burgh,' remarks  Alexander  Smith,  'is  not  only  in  point 
of  beauty  tlie  first  of  British  cities,  but,  considering  its 
population,  the  tone  of  its  society  is  more  intellectual 
than  that  of  any  other.  In  no  other  city  ^vill  you  find 
so  general  an  appreciation  of  books,  art,  music,  and 
objects  of  antiquarian  interest.  It  is  peculiarly  free 
from  the  taint  of  the  ledger  and  the  counting-house. 
It  is  a  Weimar  without  a  Goethe — a  Boston  without  its 
nasal  twang.'  The  number  of  capitalists,  bankers,  i)ro- 
fessional  men,  and  other  liberally  educated  persons  in 
&34 


EDINBURGH 

1831,  in  Edinburgh  and  Leith's  total  population  of 
161,909,  was  7463  ;  while  the  number  in  Glasgow's 
population  of  202,426  was  only  2723  ;  in  Manchester 
and  Salford's  population  of  182,812  was  only  2821  ;  in 
Birmingham's  population  of  146,986  was  only  2388  ; 
and  the  resj^ective  numbers,  in  times  subsequent  to  that 
year,  have  shown  an  increasinglj'  greater  proportion  of 
the  liberally  educated  class  in  Edinburgh  apart  from 
Leith.  The  comparative  wealth  of  the  higher  classes, 
however,  is  widely  difi"erent,  seldom  rising  in  Edinburgh 
above  mere  patrician  competency,  and  it  makes  no  such 
display  among  even  the  highest  as  among  the  merchant 
princes  of  the  great  manufacturing  tomis.  '  Edinburgh,' 
says  Alexander  Smith,  '  is  a  patrician  amongst  British 
cities,  "a  penniless  lass  wi'  a  long  pedigree."  She  has 
wit,  if  she  lacks  wealth  ;  she  counts  great  men  against 
millionaires.'  Edinburgh  has  a  reputation  for  taste  in 
certain  departments  which  ranks  above  that  of  most 
other  British  cities,  and  to  stand  the  test  of  her  critics, 
is  accepted  as  an  assurance  of  a  splendid  success. 
'  The  success  of  the  actor,'  remarks  Alexander  Smith 
again,  'is  insecure  until  thereunto  Edinburgh  has 
set  her  seal ;  the  poet  trembles  before  the  Edinburgh 
critics ;  the  singer  respects  the  delicacy  of  the  Edin- 
burgh ear  ;  coarse  London  may  roar  M'ith  applause, 
but  fastidious  Edinburgh  sniffs  disdain,  and  sneers 
reputations  away.'  The  drama,  formerly  not  very 
much  patronised,  has  come  increasingly  into  favour  ; 
the  circus  draws  great  assemblies  ;  music,  in  the  form  of 
concerts,  oratorios,  and  operas,  has  risen  into  enthusi- 
astic esteem ;  exhibitions  of  the  fine  arts  attract 
crowds  of  connoisseurs ;  travelling  celebrities,  of  al- 
most all  kinds,  are  warmly  welcomed  ;  the  races  in 
neighbouring  towns  are  frequented  by  numbers  ;  and 
athletic  sports  in  the  open  air,  from  the  coarsest  to  the 
most  refined,  are  zealously  practised  and  extensively 
admired.  The  poorer  classes,  however,  as  may  be  in- 
ferred from  statements  in  previous  sections,  are,  to  a 
great  extent,  excessively  poor  and  depressed,  not  from 
any  peculiar  bad  tendency  in  themselves,  nor  merely 
from  the  bad  influence  of  their  unhealthy  domiciles, 
but  also,  and  perhaps  chiefly,  from  the  want  of  scope 
for  industry,  and  of  healthy  stimulus  to  exertion.  The 
disproportion  of  females  over  males,  too,  is  much  greater 
than  in  almost  any  other  town  in  the  empire ;  and  has 
been  accounted  for  on  two  grounds — the  one,  the  un- 
usually large  proportion  of  female  servants  in  the  city, 
tending  to  draw  giiis  hither  from  the  country  ;  the 
other,  the  paucity  of  general  industrial  occupation,  for- 
cing young  men  to  seek  employment  elsewhere,  while 
compelling  their  sisters  to  remain  in  their  native  town. 

Numerous  clubs  and  societies  exist  for  purposes  of 
amusement  or  recreation.  Among  these  are  the  Edin- 
burgh Chess  Club,  instituted  in  1822;  St  Cecilia 
Amateur  Instrumental  Society  (1848)  ;  Edinburgh 
Choral  Union  (^1858) ;  Edinburgh  Harmonists'  Society  ; 
Scottish  Vocal  Music  Association  ;  Amateur  Quartette 
Union ;  the  Southern  Musical  Society  ;  Greyfriars' 
Choral  Society  (1865)  ;  St  George  Quartette  Club 
(1874)  ;  St  Andrew  Boat  Club  (1846)  ;  the  Edin- 
burgh University  Boat  Club  ;  Midlothian  Province  of 
Royal  Caledonian  Curling  Club  (1838)  ;  Duddingston 
Curling  Club  (1795)  ;  the  Edinburgh  Curling  Club 
(1830) ;  the  Coates  Curling  Club  (1854)  ;  Merchiston 
Curling  Club ;  Waverley  Curling  Club  and  Skating 
Club ;  Lochend  Skating  Club ;  Edinburgh  Burgess  Golf- 
ing Society  (1735) ;  Honourable  Company  of  Edinburgh 
Golfers,  instituted  prior  to  1744  ;  Bruntsfield  Links 
Golf  Club  (1761);  Bruntsfield  Allied  Golfing  Club 
(1856)  ;  Warrender  Golf  Club  (1858);  the  Edinburgh 
Thistle  Golf  Club  (1871) ;  Viewforth  Golf  Club  (1872)  ; 
Salisbury  Archers'  Club  (1836) ;  Forth  Swimming  Club 
and  Humane  Society  (1850)  ;  Lome  Swimming  Club 
and  Humane  Society  (1870) ;  Royal  Caledonian  Hunt 
(1777) ;  Lothian  Racing  Club  (1846) ;  Celtic  Society  for 
promoting  the  general  use  of  the  ancient  Highland 
dress  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  and  for  encouraging 
education  among  the  Higlilanders  and  the  distribution 
of  i^rizes  in  schools,  instituted  in  1820.     Of  bowling 


EDINBURGH 

clubs,  there  are  the  Edinburgh,  the  Edinburgh  and 
Leith  Associated,  the  Whitehouse  and  Grange,  and 
the  Drumdryan  ;  while  of  erfcket  and  football  clubs, 
there  is  an  innumerable  host. 

The  clubs,  institutions,  and  associations,  which  claim, 
In  some  manner  or  other,  to  be  patriotic  or  benevolent, 
have  purposes  which  range  from  that  of  mere  self- 
gratification  to  the  highest  flights  of  philanthropy 
and  religion,  and  are  exceedingly  numerous.  One  set 
of  them  are  the  Edinburgh  City  Artillery  Volunteer 
Corps,  with  nine  batteries  ;  the  Edinburgh  City  Rifle 
Volunteer  Corps,  with  twenty  companies  ;  the  Second 
Edinburgh  Volunteer  Corps,  with  six  companies ; 
the  British  League  Cadet  Corps ;  Edinburgh  and  Jlid- 
lothian  Rifle  Association  (1861);  the  Midlothian  Rifle 
Club  ;  and,  in  some  degree,  the  First  Midlothian  Rifle 
Volunteer  Corps,  and  the  Midlothian  Coast  Artillery 
Volunteers.  Another  set  are  the  Grand  Lodge  of  the 
Freemasons  in  Scotland ;  the  Religious  and  Military 
Order  of  the  Temple  ;  the  Grand  Chapter  of  Royal  Arch 
Freemasons  of  Scotland  ;  the  Royal  Order  of  Scotland, 
dating  from  Kilwinning  ;  the  Supreme  Council  for  Scot- 
land of  the  33d  and  last  degree  of  the  ancient  and 
accepted  Scottish  rite  ;  Imperial  Council  of  Scotland  of 
order  of  Red  Cross  of  Constantine ;  the  Rosicrucian 
Society  of  Scotland  ;  and  the  mason  lodges  in  Edin- 
burgh— 1,  Mary's  Chapel ;  2,  Canongate  Kilwinning ; 
5,  Canongate  and  Leith  ;  8,  Edinburgh  Joumeymen ; 
36,  St  David's ;  44,  St  Luke's ;  48,  St  Andrew's  ; 
97,  St  James' ;  145,  St  Stephen's ;  151,  Edinburgh 
Defensive  Band ;  160,  Roman  Eagle  ;  291,  Edinburgh 
and  Leith  Celtic  ;  349,  St  Clair  ;  392,  Caledonian  ;  405, 
Rifle.  Another  set  are  St  Cuthbert's  Lodge  of  Free 
Gardeners  (1824)  ;  St  Andrew's  Lodge  of  Free  Gardeners 
(1863)  ;  St  George's  Lodge  of  Free  Gardeners  ;  Athole 
Lodge  of  Free  Gardeners  ;  Barony  of  Broughton  Lodge 
of  Free  Gardeners  ;  and  St  GUes'  Lodge  of  Husbandmen 
Gardeners.  Of  Oddfellows,  there  are  the  City,  Sir 
Ralph  Abercromby,  Dun-Edin,  St  Bernard's,  and  the 
Excelsior  Lodges ;  the  Edinburgh  School  of  Arts 
Friendly  Society  (1828) ;  the  Saturday  Half-Holiday 
Association  (1854)  ;  the  Edinburgh  Christmas  Club 
(1867) ;  the  Edinburgh  Booksellers'  Society  ;  the  Edin- 
burgh Academical  Club  ;  the  Edinburgh  Institution 
Club  ;  the  High  School  Club  (1849)  ;  the  High  School, 
Bryce,  and  Donaldson  Associations  (1865) ;  the 
School  of  Arts  "Watt  Club;  the  Edinburgh  Health 
Societj^ ;  the  Cockburn  Association  ;  the  Sanitary  Pro- 
tection Association  ;  the  Edinburgh  Naturalists'  Field 
Club  ;  the  Cobden  Club,  instituted  in  1868  ;  and  the 
Edinburgh  Parliamentary  Society. 

Of  county  associations  in  Edinburgh,  there  are  the 
Aberdeen,  Banfl",  and  Kincardine  Association  ;  Angus 
Club  (1841)  ;  Argyle,  Bute,  and  Western  Isles  Associa- 
tion ;  Ayrshire  Club  (1854) ;  Border  Counties  Associa- 
tion (18"65)  ;  Borderers'  Union  (1874)  ;  Breadalbane 
Association  (1876) ;  Caithness  Association  (1838) ;  Dum- 
bartonshire and  Lennox  Association  (1872) ;  Dumfries- 
shire Society ;  Galloway  Association  (1843) ;  Fife, 
Clackmannan,  and  Kinross  Association',;  Clan-Gregor 
Society  (1822)  ;  Inverness,  Ross,  and  Nairn  Club 
(1863) ;  the  John  o'  Groat  Association  (1863)  ;  Lanark 
Club  (1847) ;  Upper  Ward  of  Lanarkshire  Association 
(1840) ;  East  Lothian  Association  (1874) ;  Morayshire 
Club  (1838) ;  Peeblesshire  Society  (1782)  ;  Perthshire 
Association  ;  Renfrewshire  Association  (1873)  ;  Suther- 
landshire  Association  (1866). 

Other  associations  are,  the  Society  for  the  Sons  of 
the  Clergy  (1790)  ;  Widows'  Fund  of  the  Church  and 
Universities  of  Scotland  ;  Elders'  Union  of  the  Church 
of  Scotland  ;  Lay  Association  in  support  of  the  Schemes 
of  the  Church  of  Scotland ;  College  for  Daugliters  of 
Ministers  of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  and  of  Professors 
in  the  Scottish  Universities,  opened  at  Whitehouse  in 
1863  ;  The  Edinburgh  School  of  Cookery,  instituted  in 
1875 ;  Scottish  Ladies'  Association  for  promoting  Female 
Industrial  Education  in  Scotland ;  Scottish  Ladies' 
Association  for  the  advancement  of  Female  Education  in 
India  ;  Ladies'  Association  for  promoting  the  Christian 


EDINBURGH 

Education  of  Jewish  Females  ;  Ladies'  Association  for 
the  support  of  Gaelic  Schools  ;  Free  Church  Ministers' 
Widows'  and  Orphans'  Fund  ;  Society  for  the  benefit  of 
the  Sons  and  Daughters  of  Ministers  and  Missionaries 
of  the  Free  Church  ;  Ladies'  Society  for  Female  Educa- 
tion in  India  and  CaftVaria  ;  Edinburgh  Ladies'  Associa- 
tion on  behalf  of  Jewish  Females  ;  Ladies'  Continental 
Association  ;  Association  for  the  Religious  Improvements 
of  the  remote  Highlands  and  Islands  ;  Society  of  Sons 
of  United  Presbyterian  Ministers  ;  Friendly  Society  for 
providing  Annuities  for  the  Widows  and  Orjjhans  of 
ilinisters  in  connection  with  the  United  Presbyterian 
Church  ;  Scots  Ei)iscopal  Fund  ;  Scotch  Episcopal 
Friendly  Society  ;  Scottish  Episcopal  Church  Society ; 
Scottish  Free  and  Open  Church  Association  (1877) ; 
Society  for  Promoting  Christian  Knowledge  ;  and 
Edinburgh  Diocesan  Association  for  the  support  of 
Foreign  Missions. 

Another  class  are,  the  Society  for  the  Relief  of  the 
Destitute  Sick  (1785)  ;  Senior  Female  Society  for  the 
Relief  of  Aged  and  Indigent  Women  (1797) ;  Charitable 
or  Junior  Female  Society  for  the  Relief  of  Indigent  Old 
Women  (1797)  ;  Edinburgh  Society  for  Relief  of  Indi- 
gent  Old  Men  (1806) ;  Fund  for  the  Relief  of  Indigent 
Gentlewomen,  founded  in  1847 ;  Edinburgh  Society 
for  Promoting  the  Employment  of  Women ;  the 
Paterson  Fund  for  Assisting  Decayed  Old  Men  and 
Women  who  have  seen  better  days  (1867) ;  Edinburgh 
Association  for  Improving  the  Condition  of  the  Poor 
(1870)  ;  Edinburgh  and  Leith  Society  for  the  Relief  of 
Deserving  Foreigners  in  distress ;  Fund  of  Scottish 
Masonic  Benevolence,  founded  in  1846  ;  the  Thomson 
Mortification,  for  selling  Oatmeal  at  reduced  cost  to 
poor  householders ;  the  Craigcrook  Mortification,  for 
the  benefit  of  Orphans  and  the  Aged  ;  Scottish  Society 
for  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to  Animals,  established  in 
1839 ;  Edinburgh  Total  Abstinence  Society  (1836) ; 
Edinburgh  Ladies'  Total  Abstinence  Society ;  many 
variously-named  temperance  associations.  Good  Templar 
lodges,  etc.  ;  and  the  numerous  hospital,  asylum,  and 
school  institutions,  which  were  noticed  in  the  account 
of  the  city's  piiblic  buildings.  Another  class  still,  are 
the  Edinburgh  City  Mission  (1832) ;  Edinburgh  Paro- 
chial Mission,  for  the  Employment  of  Scripture  Readers 
in  the  Old  Town ;  Edinburgh  Medical  Missionary 
Society  ;  Edinburgh  Bible  Society ;  Edinburgh  Auxiliary 
Naval  and  Military  Bible  Society  ;  Ladies'  Association 
in  aid  of  that  society ;  Scottish  Branch  of  the  British 
Armj'  Scripture  Readers'  and  Soldiers'  Friend  Society  ; 
Royal  Navy  Scripture  Readers'  Society ;  Edinburgh 
Auxiliary  to  the  London  Missionary  Society  ;  University 
ilissionary  Association  (1825) ;  Edinburgh  Church  of 
England  5lissionary  Association  ;  Waldensian  Missions* 
Aid  Fund ;  Italian  Evangelisation  Society ;  Scottish 
Evangelistic  Association  (1862) ;  Edinburgh  Subdivi- 
sion of  the  Evangelical  Alliance ;  Edinburgh  Young 
Men's  Christian  Association  (1855) ;  Edinburgh  Young 
Women's  Christian  Association  (1874)  ;  Edinburgh 
Working  Boys'  and  Girls'  Religious  Society  (1870) ; 
Edinburgh  and  Leith  Seamen's  Friend  Society  (1820) ; 
Edinburgli  Gratis  Sabbath  School  Society  (1797) ;  Edin- 
burgh Skbbath  School  Teachers'  Union  (1841);  Edin- 
burgh Sabbath  School  Teachers'  Association,  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Church  of  Scotland  ;  and  Sabbath  Morning 
Fellowship  Union  (1840). 

Trade. — Edinburgh  abounds  in  productive  industry, 
in  all  departments  of  ordinarj'  artificership,  and  in  noblo 
elforts  of  both  skill  and  labour  ;  yet  has  not,  and  never 
had,  any  considerable  stajile  of  produce  for  the  supply 
of  the  general  market.  Her  manufactures,  perhaps,  are 
more  diversified,  exhibit  a  larger  aggregate  of  genius, 
than  those  of  many  other  great  towns  ;  but  some  are  of 
the  common  kinds  for  the  supply  of  local  wants,  and 
therefore  need  not  be  mentioned,  while  the  rest  are  all 
on  so  limited  a  scale  as  to  require  only  the  briefest 
notice.  The  linen  manufacture  was  at  one  time  con- 
siderable, but  sank  many  years  ago  into  decline,  and  is 
now  extinct.  The  making  of  rich  shawls  and  i)laids,  in 
imitation  of  India  shawls,  was  commenced  in  1805,  and 

535 


EDINBURGH 

promised  for  a  time  to  become  a  staple  ;  but  never  made 
much  way  against  competition  in  other  quarters,  and 
eventually  fell  into  decline.  Silk  manufacture  was 
commenced,  in  1841,  in  a  large  handsome  edifice  at 
Fountainbridge,  but  did  not  succeed,  and  was  soon  re- 
linquished. The  manufacture  of  overshoes  and  other 
articles  in  india-rubber  was  commenced  in  1855,  in  the 
building  which  had  been  used  for  the  silk  manufacture  ; 
employed  for  a  time  about  350  hands  ;  and  now  em- 
ploys about  600  within  the  premises,  and  about  as 
many  more  in  an  indirect  way.  A  similar  manufacture, 
bearing  the  name  of  vulcanite,  was  commenced  in  1862, 
in  a  new  building  near  that  of  the  india-rubber  work  ; 
underwent  such  increase  of  production  and  enlargement 
of  premises  as  to  be  about  fourfold  greater  in  1868  than 
at  the  commencement ;  turns  out  about  7,500,000  combs 
a  year,  and  corresponding  quantities  of  other  articles ; 
and  employs  about  500  persons. 

Of  the  other  industries  carried  on,  there  may  be  men- 
tioned that  of  carpet-making,  floorcloth-making,  fringe 
and  tassel  making,  and  furniture  print ;  coach-building, 
coach-lace  making,  coach-spring  making,  and  saddlery 
and  harness  ;  glass-making,  glass-cutting,  glass-staining, 
and  glass  chandeliers  ;  brass-founding,  plumber  work 
fittings,  finishing,  and  gas-meters ;  type-founding  is 
carried  on  in  two  establishments,  and  employs  in  one  of 
them  upwards  of  500  persons  ;  iron-working,  the  making 
of  agi'icultui-al  implements  and  of  machines,  the  making 
of  tools,  carpenters'  tools,  saws,  articles  of  cutlery,  steel 
punches,  beams  and  steelyards,  wire-work,  and  wire- 
netting. 

Working  in  electro-plate,  silver,  gold,  and  precious 
stones  employs  upwards  of  1000  persons,  having  for  a 
number  of  years  been  on  the  increase.  This  branch  of 
industry  gives  promise  of  still  further  increase,  and 
has  long  been  noted  for  the  excellence  of  skill  and  taste 
displayed  in  it.  A  number  of  paper-mills  in  the  vicinity, 
particidarly  in  the  valley  of  the  North  Esk,  may  be 
regarded  as  belonging  to  Edinburgh,  and  are  represented 
in  it  by  a  number  of  wholesale  stationery  warehouses. 
The  brewing  of  malt  liquors  is  carried  on  very  exten- 
sively, and  it  has  long  been  famous  for  the  superior  quality 
of  its  ales.  The  distilling  of  whisky  is  also  carried  on 
largely,  as  well  as  the  rectifying  of  spirits  ;  and  one  of 
the  distilleries,  the  Caledonian,  erected  in  1855,  covers 
5  acres  of  ground,  and  is  5  stories  high  in  all  its  prin- 
cipal buildings.  Other  branches  are  cabinet  work, 
Venetian  blinds,  iron  bedsteads,  clocks  and  watches, 
trunks  and  portmanteaus,  basket-making,  brush-mak- 
ing, comb-making,  whips  and  thongs,  fishing-tackle, 
glove-making,  button-making,  artificial  flowers,  band- 
ages and  artificial  limbs,  and  lasts ;  colour-making, 
candle -making,  and  soap -making;  coloured  paper, 
leather,  ropes  and  sails,  dies  and  stamps ;  printers' 
presses ;  stuffing  birds  and  quadrupeds  ;  stucco  work, 
marble-cutting ;  hats,  pocket-books,  and  dressing-cases ; 
philosophical  instruments,  musical  instruments,  and 
building  organs ;  manufacturing  chemicals,  vinegar, 
pipes ;  refining  sugar,  refining  metal ;  printers'  ink, 
globes,  chemical  instruments,  gold  and  silver  lace,  hair, 
bits  and  spurs,  bows,  waterproofs,  and  air-proofs,  mill- 
stones, whiting,  gelatine,  and  varnish.  Extensive  suites 
of  flour-mills  stand  in  various  parts  of  the  suburbs  ;  and 
the  nurserymen  likewise  purvey  extensively  for  a  large 
part  of  Scotland,  and  have  their  nurseries  in  the  en- 
virons of  the  city,  or  almost  interlaced  with  some  of  its 
outskirts,  most  of  them  being  very  large.  The  workers 
in  the  fine  arts,  particularly  painters  and  sculptors,  may 
well  be  regarded  as  a  great  body  of  producers. 

The  city  has  a  very  extensive  general  retail  trade,  for 
the  supply  of  the  wants  of  its  own  stated  population, 
the  many  transient  visitors  and  travellers  passing  through 
it,  and  a  large  breadth  of  surrounding  populous  country. 
In  consequence  of  being  the  winter  residence  of  many  of 
the  country  gentry,  it  also  draws  considerable  portions 
of  the  rents  of  distant  estates,  and  of  the  dividends  of 
all  kinds  of  stocks  to  its  banks.  It  likewise  is  the 
seat  of  a  large  market  for  rural  produce  ;  of  weekly 
markets  in  Grassniarket  for  grain  :  of  weekly  markets  in 
536 


EDINBURGH 

the  cattle-market  for  sheep,  black  cattle,  etc. ;  and  of 
a  great  annual  fair  during  three  days  of  November,  for 
sheep,  black  cattle,  and  horses.  By  its  intimate  con- 
nection with  Leith  and  Granton,  it  carries  on  a  very 
large  commerce  ;  much  of  that  of  Leith  and  all  that  of 
Granton  being  actually  the  commerce  of  Edinburgh,  and 
technically  regarded  as  separate,  mainly  for  the  reason 
that  these  places  are  not  within  the  city's  municipal 
boundaries.  Edinburgh  is  likewise  the  seat  of  numerous 
public  bodies,  boards,  and  committees,  who  control  or 
manage  the  traffic  of  great  part  of  the  kingdom  ;  and 
has  its  own  Merchant  Company,  established  in  1681  ; 
its  Chamber  of  Commerce  and  Manufactures,  instituted 
in  1786  ;  and  its  own  Stock  Exchange,  formed  in  1845. 
The  North  British  and  the  Caledonian  Railway  systems 
directly  connect  the  city  with  most  parts  of  Great 
Britain  ;  the  Union  Canal  aff"ords  a  cheap  communi- 
cation with  the  mineral  fields  of  Linlithgowshire  and 
Stirlingshire  ;  the  Leith  and  Granton  steamers  open 
up  ready  intercourse  with  numerous  continental  ports, 
with  all  the  principal  ports  of  the  E  coast  of  Great 
Britain  from  London  to  Lerwick,  and  with  the  coast 
towns  and  other  accessible  places  of  the  Firth  of  Forth. 

Printing  and  Publishing. — Literature,  and  the  arts 
connected  with  its  production,  may  be  said  to  hold  the 
most  prominent  place  among  the  productive  industi'ies 
of  Edinburgh,  employing  many  thousands  in  the 
mechanical  branches,  as  well  as  a  goodly  host  of 
literary  men,  who  find  the  facilities  accorded  them  by 
the  free  use  of  the  gi-eat  libraries  of  very  material 
advantage — these  facilities  being,  perhaps,  greater  in 
Edinburgh  than  in  any  city  of  the  kingdom,  excepting 
London.  About  thirty  years  after  Caxton  set  up  his 
press  in  Westminster  Abbey,  the  first  printing  press  in 
Scotland  was  put  up  in  the  Cowgate,  at  the  foot  of 
Blackfriars  Wynd.  Scotland's  first  printer  was  Walter 
Chepman,  with  whom  was  associated  Andro  Myllar,  and 
the  date  of  the  introduction  is  about  1507.  It  may  at 
first  seem  strange  that  the  art  should  have  been  so  long 
in  coming  to  Scotland,  when  we  know  that  such  Scotch- 
men as  Duns  Scotus,  Barbour,  Fordun,  Hector  Boece, 
and  others,  lived  and  wrote  prior  to  that  date  ;  but 
such  an  art  like  printing  could  not  easily  take  root  in  a 
country  so  disturbed  and  torn  by  faction  as  Scotland 
had  long  been. 

In  an  address  at  the  Librarians'  Congress  in  1880, 
Mr  Clark,  of  the  Advocates  Library,  says  : — '  The  facts 
regarding  the  first  introduction  of  printing  into  Scot- 
land were  settled  beyond  dispute  by  a  discovery  of  the 
late  Mr  William  Robertson,  of  the  General  Register 
House,  who,  about  the  end  of  last  century,  found  among 
the  records  a  patent  dated  15th  September  1507,  granted 
by  King  James  IV.  to  Walter  Chepman  and  Andro  Myllar, 
burgesses  of  Edinburgh,  in  which  it  is  set  forth  that 
they,  "at  his  Majesty's  request,  for  his  pleasure,  and 
the  honour  and  profit  of  his  realm  and  lieges,  had  taken 
upon  them  to  bring  hame  ane  print,  with  all  stuff 
belonging  thereto,  and  expert  men  to  use  the  same,  for 
imprinting  within  the  realm  of  the  books  of  the  laws, 
Acts  of  Parliament,  chronicles,  mass-books,  and  portuns 
after  the  use  of  the  realm,  with  additions  and  legends 
of  Scottish  saints,  now  gathered  to  be  eked  thereto,  and 
all  other  books  that  shall  be  necessary  ;  and  to  sell  the 
same  for  competent  prices,  by  his  Majesty's  advice  and 
discretion,  their  labours  and  expenses  being  considered." 
To  what  extent  Cliepnian  and  Myllar  made  use  of  this 
privilege  granted  to  tliem  we  cannot  determine,  but  as 
Chepman  lived  till  1530,  we  may  reasonably  conclude 
that  a  great  number  of  works  issued  from  their  press ; 
but  of  these  only  two  are  now  known — the  first,  a 
volume  of  metrical  tales  and  ballads  such  as  were 
popular  in  those  times  ;  and  the  second,  the  Brcviarium 
Abcrdoncnsc.  It  was  not  till  1788  that  any  earlier 
])roduction  of  Chepman  and  Myllar's  press  than  the 
Aberdeen  Breviary  was  known  to  exist,  but  in  that  year 
tliere  was  presented  by  a  Mr  Alston,  of  Glasgow,  to  the 
Advocates  Library,  the  volume  of  ballads  already 
referred  to,  and  of  which  that  prince  of  re-printers,  the 
late  I\Ir  David  Laiug,  of  the  Signet  Library,  in  the  pre- 


EDINBURGH 

face  to  his  facsimile  reprint  of  this  volume,  published  in 
1S27,  says — "  This  neglected  and  long-forgotten  volume 
proved  to  be  a  collection  of  those  tracts  which  had  been 
published  in  or  about  the  year  1508  ;  and  which, 
mutilated  and  defective  as  it  was,  possessed  an  almost 
inestimable  value,  and  contained  various  compositions 
nowhere  else  preserved,  as  being  a  book  completely 
unique,  and  as  exhibiting  unquestionably  the  earliest 
productions  of  the  Scottish  press."'  It  is  known  that 
Chepman  was  a  burgess  of  Edinburgh,  and  that,  as  well 
as  being  a  printer,  he  was  in  a  good  position  as  a 
merchant  in  the  city.  He  settled  a  chaplainry  at  the 
altar  of  St  John  the  Evangelist  in  an  aisle  which  had 
been  built  by  him  in  St  Giles'  Church,  and  endowed  the 
chaplainry  ■\\ith  an  annual  rent  of  twenty-three  merks. 
This  aisle,  built  by  Scotland's  first  printer,  has  recently 
been  restored  by  one  who  may  also  justly  be  styled 
Scotland's  first  printer,  as  far  as  regards  the  publication 
and  dissemination  of  wholesome  cheap  literature — Dr 
William  Chambers,  who  has  also  erected  a  tablet  to  the 
memory  of  Chepman.  The  tablet  has  the  following 
inscription,  in  which  both  the  names  of  these  '  first 
printers '  are  fittingly  combined  :  '  To  the  memory  of 
Walter  Chepman,  designated  the  Scottish  Caxton,  who, 
under  the  auspices  of  James  IV.  and  his  Queen  Margaret, 
introduced  the  art  of  printing  into  Scotland  1507  ; 
founded  this  aisle  in  honour  of  the  King  and  Queen  and 
their  family,  1513,  and  died  in  1532 ;  this  tablet  is 
gratefully  inscribed  by  William  Chambers,  LL.D., 
1879.' 

Thomas  Davidson,  the  next  Scottish  printer,  appears 
in  1536.  His  first  work  seems  to  have  been  a  Strena 
or  Latin  poem,  written  on  the  occasion  of  James  V.  's 
accession  to  power  in  1528.  The  only  copy  known  of 
this  work  is  in  the  British  Museum.  John  Scott,  or 
Skot,  was,  in  chronological  order,  Scotland's  next 
printer,  and  he  is  supposed  to  have  acquired  the  art  in 
St  Paul's  Churchyard  and  other  places  in  London  be- 
tween 1521-1587,  and  he  probably  came  to  Edinburgh  in 
1538.  In  1539  the  king  granted  to  Scott  chambers  on 
the  N  side  of  Cowgate,  at  the  foot  of  Borthwick's  Close. 
It  is  thought  that  some  of  Scott's  productions  gave  rise 
to  an  Act  of  Parliament  in  1551-52  against  printing  books 
without  licence,  there  being  among  the  books  enumerated 
Tragedies,  as  well  in  Latin  as  in  Inglis  tongue;  probably 
this  was  Lindesay's  tragedy  of  The  Cardinal.  Scott 
apparently  did  not  pay  any  attention  to  this  enactment, 
for  he  appears  to  have  been  summoned  before  the  Privy 
Council  '  for  his  demerits  and  faultes, '  a  summons  which 
he  took  care  not  to  obey.  The  next  printer  is  Robert 
Leyprevick,  a  contemporary  of  Scott,  and  who  took  an 
opposite  side  from  him  in  the  Reformation  contests. 
In  March  1564-65  Leyprevick  received  a  licence  to  print 
the  Acts  of  Parliament,  and  also  the  Psalms  of  David  in 
'  Scottis  metir '  for  seven  years.  This  licence  was  renewed 
in  1567-68  for  twenty  years,  and  again  in  April  1568,  giv- 
ing the  exclusive  right  to  print  Ane  buiJc  callit  ye  Inglis 
Bybil  imprentit  of  before  at  Geneva.  But  we  do  not  find 
that  either  these  Psalms  or  Bible  were  issued  by  Ley- 
previck, and  in  1574  the  Privy  Council  found  it  neces- 
sary to  levy  a  contribution  of  £5  from  each  parish  in 
the  kingdom  to  enable  Thomas  Bassendyne  to  print  an 
edition  of  the  Bible.  He  became  bound  under  penalties 
to  deliver  copies  '  weel  and  sufficiently  bund  in  paste  or 
timmer '  for  the  sum  of  £4,  13s.  4d.,  the  remainder  of 
the  enforced  contribution  being  detained  to  defray  the 
cost  of  collection.  Having  '  guid  characters  and  prent- 
ing  irons,'  the  council  thought  the  work,  gi-eat  as  it  was, 
would  go  quickly  on.  The  hope  was  not  realised,  for 
Bassendyne  found  it  necessary  to  petition  for  longer 
time  in  1576  ;  and  in  the  following  year  he  was  ordered 
by  the  council  to  deliver  up  his  printing-office  and  Bible 
to  Alexander  Arbuthnot,  who  finished  the  work  and  had 
it  in  circulation  in  1579.  The  sale  of  this  work  was 
rather  enforced,  for  the  council  soon  after  enacted  that 
all  persons  worth  £500  should  possess  a  Bible  in  the 
vulgar  tongue,  under  a  penalty  of  £10.  After  so  far 
overcoming  its  rudimentary  stage,  the  art  still  made  but 
comparatively  slow  progress  in  Edinburgh  till  about  the 


EDINBURGH 

middle  of  last  century.  Arnot,  writing  in  1779,  says 
regarding  it, — '  Till  within  these  forty  years,  the  print- 
ing of  newspapers  and  of  school-books,  of  the  fanatic 
effusions  of  Presbyterian  clergymen,  and  the  law  papers 
of  the  Court  of  Session,  joined  to  the  Patent  Bible 
printing,  gave  a  scanty  employment  to  four  printing 
offices.  Such,  however,  has  been  the  increase  of  this 
trade,  by  the  reprinting  of  English  books  not  protected 
by  the  statute  concerning  literary  property,  by  the  ad- 
ditional number  of  authors,  and  many  lesser  causes,  that 
there  are  now  no  fewer  than  twenty-seven  printing  offices 
in  Edinburgh. '  Even  with  that  number  of  printers  at 
work,  literature  could  hardly  in  the  strict  sense  be  much 
more  a  source  of  employment  at  that  time  in  Edinburgh 
than  in  Glasgow,  Perth,  or  some  other  Scottish  towns. 
It  soon,  however,  acquired  a  new  energy,  and  increased 
with  such  a  rapidity,  as  eventually  to  earn  for  the  city 
the  name  of  Modern  Athens,  in  compliment  as  much 
from  being  a  seat  of  learning  and  a  source  of  literature, 
as  from  the  corresponding  features  of  the  city's  situation 
and  surroundings.  Among  its  earlier  publishers  was 
Allan  Ramsay,  who  published  and  sold  his  own  songs 
and  his  pastoral  play  of  the  Gentle  SJiepherd,  and  was 
among  the  first  to  establish  a  circulating  library.  Of 
those  who  followed  were  Creech,  Bell,  Donaldson  (father 
of  the  founder  of  Donaldson's  Hospital),  Elliot,  and 
Constable,  the  first  publisher  of  the  JFavcrloj  Novels 
and  the  Edinburgh  Revieio ;  still  later,  we  come  to  the 
well-known  names  of  Blackwood  and  Black,  who  have 
fully  sustained  the  reputation  of  their  predecessors  for 
enterprise  and  liberality. 

Towards  the  end  of  last  century  and  the  beginning  of 
this,  while  Byron,  Wordsworth,  Shelley,  Coleridge, 
and  a  host  of  others  were  making  their  splendid  con- 
tributions to  English  literature,  there  arose  a  society  of 
litterateurs  in  Edinburgh  which  soon  became  world- 
famous, — Jeff'rey,  Cockburn,  Wilson  (Christopher 
North),  Dugald  Stewart,  James  Hogg  (the  Ettrick 
Shepherd),  Leonard  Horner  (the  founder  of  the  School 
of  Arts),  Abercrombie,  Jameson,  Lockhart,  and  many 
others.  These,  though  they  might  scarce  compare 
■nith  their  southern  contemporaries,  yet  formed  a  lite- 
rary body  which  had  for  its  central  point  one  of  the 
greatest  authors  of  the  age — Sir  Walter  Scott.  The 
earliest  magazine  of  any  note  published  in  Edin- 
burgh, above  the  status  of  a  newspaper,  was  the  Scots 
Magazine,  begun  in  1739,  which  was  followed  by  the 
Weekly  3Iagazine  in  1768.  The  latter  magazine  was, 
in  consequence  of  a  legal  dispute,  ultimately  divided 
into  two  sections — the  one  a  literary  miscellany,  the 
other  simply  a  newspaper  ;  and  both  continued  to  exist 
for  a  number  of  years.  The  increased  literary  vitality, 
however,  led  to  the  starting,  in  the  early  part  of  this 
century,  of  the  Edinburgh  Review,  a  celebrated  critical 
and  political  journal,  the  earliest  of  the  large  quarterlies, 
and  the  first  great  expositor  of  Whig  principles.  The 
opening  number  was  published  on  the  10th  of  October 
1802.  The  idea  of  the  Ecvieiv  originated  mth  Sydney 
Smith  ;  but  Francis  (afterwards  Lord)  Jefifrey  became 
editor  ;  and  with  them  were  associated  Horner, 
Brougham,  John  (afterwards  Lord)  Murray,  and  Dr 
Thomas  Brown.  Among  the  names  of  later  contributors 
are  those  of  James  Mill,  Hallam,  Sir  William  Hamil- 
ton, Hazlitt,  Macaulay,  and  Cariyle.  The  projectors  of 
the  Eevieio  found  a  publisher  in  Constable—'  to  whom,' 
says  Lord  Cockburn  in  his  Memorials,  '  the  literature  of 
Scotland  has  been  more  indebted  than  to  any  other 
bookseller.'  The  largest  circulation  attained  by  the 
Edinburgh  Eevieiv  was  13,000  coines  in  1S13  ;  and 
Jeff'rey,  as  editor,  received  at  first  £50,  and  afterwards 
£200,  for  each  number.  The  literary  criticisms  of  the 
Review  were  often  prejudiced,  but  always  able  ;  while, 
as  for  its  editor  Jeffrey,  Cariyle  says,  in  1876,  'it  is 
certain  there  has  no  critic  appeared  among  us  since  who 
was  worth  naming  beside  him.'  The  fame  of  his  organ, 
however,  stands  highest  as  a  political  organ.  The 
publishing  house  of  this  Review  lias  now  been  removed 
to  London.  A  rival  to  this  followed  in  1817,  when  Mr 
William  Blackwood  issued  the  first  number  of  the  cele- 

537 


EDINBURGH 

brated  magazine  which  bears  his  name.  Gathering 
round  him  some  of  the  ablest  literary  men  of  the  da}', 
including  Wilson,  Hogg,  and  Lockhart,  Blackwood 
instantly  achieved  success.  Till  his  death,  Sept.  16, 
1834,  Blackwood  was  the  leading  spirit  of  the  magaziue, 
of  which  there  was  never  a  sole  and  irresponsible  editor. 
As  a  political  organ  of  the  Tory  party  it  was  long  a 
power,  and  at  tirst  a  terror.  But  its  forte  was  litera- 
ture ;  and  if  the  '  sound  of  revelry  by  night '  was  in  the 
old  days  too  loudly  echoed  in  its  l>ages,  it  has  now 
completely  died  away.  Yet  it  has  not  lost,  but  only 
changed  its  .spirit.  Under  the  successors  of  '  Ebony, ' 
Blackwood  maintains  its  position  in  the  face  of  numerous 
and  formidable  rivals,  and  is  still  admirable  for  the 
various  talent  it  commands. 

Other  similar  literary  ventures  followed,  such  as 
Tail's  Edinburgh  Magazine,  with  various  success,  but 
generally  of  short  duration,  till  Dr  William  Chambers 
started  Chambers' s Edinburgh  Jo^irnalm  1832,  a  periodi- 
cal— purely  literary  and  entirely  unsectarian  as  regards 
either  politics  or  religion — which  was  at  once  successful, 
and  still  retains,  in  undiminished  degree,  its  excellence 
and  popularity.  After  its  fourteenth  number  Robert 
Chambers  became  joint  editor,  and  the  firm  of  William 
and  Robert  Chambers  was  established.  By  the  sterling 
merits  both  of  the  publishers  and  their  works,  the  firm 
soon  became,  and  has  ever  since  continued  to  lae,  one  of 
the  foremost  in  the  northern  part  of  the  kingdom.  The 
people  of  Scotland  have  long  regarded  it  with  a  feeling 
of  national  pride  not  bestowed  on  any  other  firm  how- 
ever eminent.  The  jubilee  of  Chambers's  Journal  was 
celebrated  in  February  1882.  This  firm  did  not  con- 
fine their  attention  solely  to  their  Journal,  but  have 
been  the  publishers  of  many  educational  works  and 
other  books  of  a  popular  kind.  Various  other  periodi- 
cals and  magazines  are  published  in  Edinburgh,  but 
these  are  mostly  of  a  sectional  or  ecclesiastical  character, 
having  limited  circulations. 

Perhaps  the  greatest  work  ever  published  by  the  press 
of  Edinburgh  is  the  Encyclopcedia  Britannica,  first  pub- 
lished in  1771  (the  ninth  edition  of  which  being  now 
in  course  of  publication)  ;  but  important  as  that  work 
was  in  its  first  issue,  it  was  but  an  imperfect  indication 
of  the  literary  activity  soon  to  follow,  and  which  has 
had  so  important  an  effect  upon  the  city's  prosperity. 
The  far-reaching  speculations  of  Constable  with  his 
popular  Miscellany  and  other  works,  the  many  produc- 
tions of  the  BallantjTie  Press,  with  its  everliowiug 
stream  of  novels  from  the  pen  of  the  author  of  Waver- 
ley,  gave  ample  proof  to  the  world  that  Edinburgh  was 
rapidly  becoming  a  centre  of  literature.  Since  then  this 
has  rapidly  increased,  and  now  it  may  be  said  to  pro- 
duce a  more  than  proportional  quantity  of  informational 
standard  works  than  any  other  city,  with  perhaps  the 
exception  only  of  London.  It  ought  not  to  be  forgot- 
ten, as  an  important  aid  to  the  cheap  jiroduction  of 
literature,  that  the  process  of  stereotj'ping  was  the 
invention  of  an  Edinburgh  silversmith,  named  John 
Ged,  specimens  of  whose  work  may  be  seen  in  the 
Advocates  Library,  where  a  case  in  one  of  the  halls 
contains  stereo-plates  of  an  edition  of  Sallust,  which 
were  made  by  him.  The  publishing  firms  now  are 
many,  the  printing  establishments  numerous  and  com- 
plete. That  of  Messrs  Nelson,  where  publishing  and 
printing  are  combined,  gives  employment  to  nearly  700 
people,  and  that  of  Messrs  Chambers  to  about  600, 
while  several  others  have  nearly  as  many.  Engraving, 
lithographing,  and  bookbinding  are  carried  on  also  in 
many  large  establishments — some  in  connection  with 
printing  offices,  and  others  independently,  and  alto- 
gether many  thousands  of  people  are  thus  engaged 
in  the  production  of  books.  The  literary  prestige 
which  the  northern  capital  attained  in  the  days  of 
Waverley  and  the  Edinburgh  Review  has  thus  been 
well  maintained,  even  although  in  these  latter  days 
the  great  capital  attracts  and  absorbs  the  principal 
literary  talent  of  the  nation. 

Keu-s-papers. — The  newspaper  press  of  Edinburgh  ori- 
ginated during  the  civil  wars  of  the  17th  century — the 
638 


EDINBURGH 

first  being  the  Scots  Intelligencer  (1643),  which  was 
followed  in  Oct.  1653  by  a  reprint  of  a  London  paper 
called  Mercurius  Politicus.  This  was  first  issued  at  Leith 
by  Christopher  Higgins,  a  printer  who  came  with  Crom- 
well's troops  in  1652  to  garrison  the  citadel  of  that  to'mi, 
and  who  afterwards  transferred  his  ofiice  to  Edinburgh, 
where  he  continued  to  print  his  paper  till  1660.  The 
Politicus  was  almost  wholly  devoted  to  the  affairs  of 
Cromwell  and  of  his  army  of  invasion.  Shortly  after  the 
discontinuance  of  Higgins'  reprint,  the  Mercurius  Cale- 
donius  was  issued,  the  first  number  bearing  the  date, 
'  From  Monday  Decemb.  31  to  Tuesday,  Jan.  8th,  1661,' 
and  this  paper  was  the  first  which  was  wholly  edited 
and  published  in  Edinburgh.  It  shortly  changed  its 
named  to  Mercurius  Publiais,  and  was  succeeded  by 
The  Kingdom's  Intelligencer.  For  some  time  the  in- 
habitants were  wholly  destitute  of  anything  in  the 
shape  of  a  '  news-letter, '  till  a  printer  named  James 
Watson  started  the  Edinburgh  Gazette  in  1669,  and  fol- 
lowed this  by  the  Edinburgh  Courant  in  1705,  which 
lasted  long  enough  to  issue  55  numbers.  The  Scots 
Caiirant,  also  published  by  Watson,  followed  in  1706, 
and  it  again  was  succeeded  by  the  Edinburgh  Flying 
Post  and  the  Scots  Postman.  These  papers  were  all 
short-lived.  In  1718  a  privilege  was  given  to  a  printer 
named  James  M'Ewan  to  publish  the  Edinburgh  Evening 
Courant  three  times  a  week,  on  condition  that  a  copy 
should  be  given  to  the  magistrates  before  publication. 
This  paper,  as  The  Courant,  is  still  in  existence  as  the 
organ  of  the  Conservative  and  Established  Church  parties. 
The  Caledonian  Mercury  was  published  first  as  a  three 
times  a-week  paper  in  1720  by  James  Rolland,  but  always 
claimed  a  longer  history  by  tracing  back  its  lineage  to 
the  Mercurius  Caledonius  of  1660.  The  political  his- 
tory of  this  paper  was  full  of  change.  The  entrance 
of  Prince  Charles  Stewart  into  Edinburgh  altered  its 
sentiments  from  the  soundest  Hanoverianism  to  the 
most  rabid  Jacobitism,  while  the  retreat  from  Derby 
was  the  signal  for  a  demonstrative  rejoicing  at  the  over- 
throw of  'Rebellion.'  When  Liberal  doctrines  began 
to  pervade  Scotland,  the  Mercury  espoused  them  with 
moderateness  ;  and  during  this  period,  as  well  as  for 
many  years  previousl}',  it  was  conducted  with  much 
ability.  It  latterly  became  a  Radical  organ  of  the 
fiercest  sort,  and  about  1865  was  finally  merged  in 
the  IFccHy  Scotsman.  The  Edinburgh  Advertiser,  esta- 
blished in  1764,  was  also  a  Tory  organ,  and  was  so  pro- 
fitable a  venture,  combined  as  it  was  with  a  book-work 
ofiice,  that  its  proprietor,  James  Donaldson,  at  his  death 
in  1830  was  enabled  to  leave  £200,000  for  the  erection 
and  endowment  of  the  princely  hospital  which  bears  his 
name.  Another,  named  the  Edinburgh  Weekly  Journal, 
which  continued  do^vn  to  1848,  was  also  a  successful 
paper.  The  Scotsman,  founded  in  1817  in  the  Whig 
interest,  has  always  been  one  of  the  ablest  and  most 
consistent  of  that  party's  organs,  and  fought  the  battles 
of  Reform  and  Free  Trade  with  indefatigable  vigour. 
Under  the  editorship  of  Charles  M'Laren,  J.  R.  M'Cul- 
loch,  and  particularly  Alexander  Russel,  it  distanced 
all  competitors,  and  has  now  attained  a  circulation 
greater  than  that  of  any  ])aper  in  Britain  out  of  London. 
The  Scotsman  was  the  first  to  initiate  various  enter- 
prises, in  which  it  has  been  followed  with  commendable 
alacrity  by  several  other  Scotch  papers,  such  as  the 
establishment  of  S2)ecial  telegraphic  wires  to  London, 
and  the  running  of  special  trains  to  diti'erent  parts  of 
the  country  for  the  transmission  of  early  editions.  It 
also  introduced  the  '  Walter  Press '  into  the  printing 
department  before  any  other  non-metiopolitan  journal. 
It  has  two  special  London  wires  and  three  Walter 
presses.  Under  its  present  management  it  has  shown 
a  resolute  determination  to  throw  off  the  reproach  of 
provincialism  (which  Mr  Russel's  editorship,  brilliant 
though  it  was,  tended  to  confirm),  has  boldly  challenged 
the  infallibility  of  the  London  press,  and  on  several 
notable  occasions  anticipated  the  latter  in  the  publica- 
tion of  important  news.  It  has  also  conspicuously 
widened  the  range  of  its  intellectual  sympathies — litera- 
tui-e,  education,  and  social  progress  receiving  a  much 


EDINBURGH 

larger  and  more  liberal  attention  than  formerly.  The 
Edinburgh  Daily  Reviciv,  founded  in  1861,  took  the 
place  of  the  old  Witness  as  the  leading  Free  Church 
paper,  and  has  specially  signalised  itself  by  an  almost 
uninterrupted  series  of  attacks  on  the  Church  of  Scot- 
land. It  is  certainly  the  most  vehement  and  persistent 
organ  of  Disestablishment  N  of  the  Tweed.  The 
other  daily  papers  of  Edinburgh  are  the  Evening  Neios 
(Liberal)  and  the  Evening  Express  (Conservative).  Nu- 
merous others  have  been  issued  from  time  to  time,  but 
are  all  now  extinct.  There  is  also  a  number  of  weekly 
papers,  generally  class  organs,  such  as  the  Guardian 
(Episcopal  Church),  A^orth  British  Agriculturist,  etc., 
etc.  A  great  impetus  was  given  in  Edinburgh  as  else- 
where to  newspaper  enterprise  by  the  successive  repeal 
of  the  various  taxes  on  knowledge — the  advertisement 
duty  on  4  Aug.  1853,  the  stamp  duty  on  15  June  1855, 
and  the  paper  duty  on  1  Oct.  1861,  and  this  brought 
down  several  of  the  above  papers  from  their  former  high 
prices  to  the  almost  universal  penny. 

Ecclesiastical  Affairs. — Large  portions  of  the  parlia- 
mentary burgh  include  St  Cuthbert's  and  Canongate 
parishes,  which  have  been  already  noticed  as  to  their 
ecclesiastical  aflairs  ;  there  are  also  within  the  same  area 
portions  of  South  Leith,  North  Leith,  Duddingston, 
and  Liberton  parishes.  Tolbooth  parish  comprehends 
the  N  side  of  the  ancient  royalty  from  the  Castle 
esplanade  to  Bank  Street ;  High  Church  parish,  the  N 
side  from  Bank  Street  to  North  Bridge  ;  Trinity  College 
parish,  the  N  side  from  North  Bridge  to  Cranston  Street ; 
Old  Church  parish,  from  head  of  Canongate  to  St  John 
Street,  and  from  thence  by  South  Back  of  Canongate  to 
Cowgate  at  foot  of  South  Gray's  Close  ;  Tron  Church 
parish,  the  middle  of  South  Gray's  Close  to  Blair 
Street,  and  from  High  Street  to  Cowgate  ;  New  North 
parish,  the  middle  of  Blair  Street  to  George  IV. 
Bridge,  and  from  High  Street  and  Lawnmarket  to  Cow- 
gate ;  St  John's  parish,  the  middle  of  George  IV.  Bridge 
to  Castle  "WjTid,  and  from  LaA\Timarket  to  Grassmarket ; 
New  Greyfriars'  parish,  the  S  side  from  Venuel  foot  to 
Candlemaker  Row  and  Bristo  Port ;  Old  Greyfriars' 
parish,  the  S  side  from  Bristo  Port  to  College  Wynd, 
and  along  Cowgate  to  Candlemaker  Row ;  Lady  Yester's 
parish,  the  S  side  of  Cowgate  from  College  Wynd  to  the 
eastern  line  of  the  City  Wall  at  Surgeons'  Square  ;  St 
George's  parish  comprehends  the  parts  of  the  extended 
royalty,  southward  from  the  line  of  Queen  Street, 
between  the  city  boundary  on  the  W  and  Hanover 
Street  on  the  E  ;  St  Andrew's  parish,  the  parts  between 
Queen  Street  and  York  Place  on  the  N,  Hanover  Street 
on  the  W,  and  Picardy  Place  on  the  E  ;  Greenside 
parish,  the  parts  between  Leith  Walk  to  foot  of  Elm 
Row  on  the  N,  Catherine  Street  on  the  W,  and  the  city 
boundary  on  the  E  ;  St  Mary's  parish,  all  the  north- 
eastern parts  westward  to  Dundas  Street  and  Pitt 
Street ;  St  Stephen's  parish,  all  the  north-western  parts 
westward  from  Dundas  Street  and  Pitt  Street.  Part  of 
St  George's  forms  the  quoad  sacra  parish  of  St  Luke  ; 
some  portions  of  most  of  the  parishes,  or  rather  small 
portions  of  their  population,  form  the  quoad  sacra 
parish  of  the  Gaelic  Church,  which  has  no  definite 
limits  ;  and  small  parts  of  the  parishes  of  Greenside  and 
Lady  Yester  are  included  in  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of 
Abbey,  Newington,  and  St  Leonard's. 

The  High,  the  Tron,  and  St  Andrew's  parishes  were 
recently  collegiate,  but  are  now  single  charges.  The 
patronage  of  all  the  charges  was  held  by  the  town 
council  till  the  abolition  of  the  annuity  tax  in  1860,  and 
by  a  body  of  ecclesiastical  commissioners  from  1860  till 
the  abolition  of  patronage  in  1875.  The  ecclesiastical 
commissioners  were  elected  by  certain  public  bodies,  in 
terms  of  the  Annuity-tax  Abolition  Act,  to  administer 
the  temporal  affairs  of  the  city  churches,  and  had  power, 
at  the  next  vacancies  after  1860,  to  allow  five  charges — 
the  second  High,  the  second  Tron,  the  second  St 
Andrew's,  the  Old  Church,  and  the  Tolbooth — to  lapse. 
Prior  to  1872  they  had  opportunity  to  allow  all  of  them 
to  lapse,  retaining  none  except  the  Tolbooth  charge. 
The  three  second    charges  were    allowed    to    become 


EDINBURGH 

extinct  ;  but  that  of  the  Old  Church  was  taken  under 
the  care  of  the  Edinburgh  presbytery,  both  as  regards 
provision  and  patronage.  The  stipends  of  all  the  city 
ministers,  prior  to  1860,  were  derived  mainly  from  the 
annuity  tax  on  houses  and  shops  within  the  royalty, 
and  rose  from  £200  each  in  1802  to  £625  in  1850  ;  but, 
in  consequence  of  the  Annuity-tax  Abolition  Act  of  1860, 
they  were  fixed  at  £600  to  each  of  the  existing  incum- 
bents, which  might  afterwards  be  decreased  to  £550. 
Eventually  these  stipends  were  payable  to  only  thirteen 
ministers,  and  were  raised  partly  from  seat-rents,  and 
partly  from  new  taxes  mixed  up  with  the  police  rates  ; 
came,  by  means  of  these  taxes  till  1870,  through  a  bond 
of  annuity  for  £4200  by  the  town  council  to  the  ecclesi- 
astical commissioners  ;  and  now,  in  terms  of  the  Amend- 
ment Annuity-tax  Abolition  Act  of  1870,  are  derived 
from  a  redemption  fund  of  £56,500  paid  for  extinction 
of  the  annuity  bond.  The  statistics  of  the  Established 
churches  in  Edinburgh  show  the  number  of  communi- 
cants or  members  to  be  as  follows :  Buccleuch,  497  ; 
Canongate,  1116;  Dean,  430;  Gaelic,  146;  Greenside, 
1480  ;  New  Greyfriars',  537  ;  Old  Greyfriars',  635  ;  High 
Cliurch,  443  ;  Lady  Glenorchy's,  743 ;  Lady  Yester's, 
1855  ;  Morningside,  559  ;  Newington,  1342  ;  Mayfield, 
143  ;  Old  Kirk,  73 ;  Robertson  Memorial,  799  ;  St 
Andrew's,  771 ;  Elder  Street,  219  ;  St  Bernard's,  1442; 
St  Cuthbert's,  2796  ;  Merchiston,  313  ;  Dumbiedykes, 
123  ;  St  David's,  1104 ;  St  George's,  858  ;  St  John's, 
427  ;  St  Mary's,  1503  ;  St  Stephen's,  2058  ;  Tolbooth, 
781  ;  Trinity  College,  836  ;  Tron,  927  ;  West  Coates, 
616  ;  and  West  St  Giles',  527. 

The  Free  churches  within  the  parliamentary  bounds 
and  suburbs  show  the  following  number  of  members 
and  income  in  1881 :  Barclay,  1152,  £4163  ;  Buccleuch, 
242,  £713  ;  Chalmers'  Church,  1132,  £879  ;  Cowgate, 
799,  £668  ;  Cowgatehead,  161,  £99  ;  Dairy,  368, 
£1239  ;  Dean,  283,  £480  ;  Fountainbridge,  402,  £276 ; 
Grange,  698,  £3615;  Greyfriars',  379,  £757;  High, 
676,  £2334  ;  Holyrood,  359,  £428  ;  Knox's,  279,  £248  ; 
Lady  Glenorchy's,  616,  £1993  ;  M'Crie,  265,  £272  ; 
Martyrs',  250,  £628  ;  Mayfield,  252,  £2193  ;  Moray, 
494,  £610 ;  Morningside,  260,  £1019 ;  Newington, 
703,  £1102 ;  New  North,  504,  £3539  ;  PUrig,  586, 
£1350 ;  Pleasance,  1177,  £535  ;  Roseburn,  244,  £543  ; 
Roxburgh,  345,  £2443  ;  St  Andrew's,  441,  £886  ;  St 
Bernard's,  557,  £802  ;  St  Columba's,  483,  £778  ;  St 
Cuthbert's,  435,  £2136  ;  St  David's,  804,  £996  ;  St 
George's,  1084,  £11,301  ;  St  John's,  341,  £817  ;  St 
Luke's,  567,  £1721  ;  St  Mary's,  457,  £1300  ;  St  Paul's, 
465,  £949  ;  St  Stephen's,  422,  £1832  ;  Stockbridge, 
747,  £1336  ;  Tolbooth,  380,  £1957  ;  Tron,  303,  £533 ; 
and  Viewforth,  1072,  £1587. 

The  United  Presbyterian  churches  within  the  same 
area  in  1881  show  the  following  results  :  Argvle  Place, 
230,  £1073  ;  Arthur  Street,  340,  £523  ;  lilackfriars 
Street,  216,  £131  ;  Bristo  Street,  990,  £2359 ;  Brou£;hton 
Place,  1412,  £3011  ;  Canongate,  275,  £190 ;  Colston 
Street,  207,  £254  ;  College  Street,  1245,  £1560  ;  Da\nd- 
son  Memorial,  Eyre  Place,  246,  £1408  ;  Dean  Street, 
627,  £682  ;  Gilmore  Place,  1123,  £1352  ;  Haymarket, 
410,  £2009  ;  Hope  Park,  719,  £1059  ;  Infirmary  Street, 
584,  £1024  ;  St  James  Place,  997,  £1531  ;  Lauriston 
Place,  1120,  £2340  ;  London  Road,  570,  £866  ;  Lothian 
Road,  900,  £1246  ;  Morningside,  557,  £1591  ;  Newing- 
ton, 677,  £1958;  Nicolson  Street,  800,  £1152;  Rich- 
mond Street,  627,  £594  ;  Palmerston  Place,  691,  £3123  ; 
Portsburgh,  191,  £521  ;  Rose  Street,  543,  £1456  ;  and 
Rosehall,  86,  £1090. 

The  other  places  of  worship  in  1882  are  the  Original 
Secession  churches  in  Lauriston  Street,  in  South  Clerk 
Street,  and  Forrest  Road  ;  the  United  Original  Secession 
church  in  Victoria  Terrace.  Of  Episcopal  churches 
there  are,  St  Mary's  Cathedral  in  Palmerston  Place ; 
St  Paul's,  York  Place  ;  St  Paul's,  Jclfrey  Street ;  St 
John's,  Princes  Street ;  St  George's,  York  Place  ;  St 
Andrew's,  South  Back  of  Canongate  ;  St  Peter's,  Lutton 
Place  ;  St  Columba's,  Johnston  Terrace  ;  St  James's, 
Broughton  Place  ;  Trinity,  Dean  Bridge  ;  All  Saints', 
Broufrham  Street ;  St  John's  School  Chapel,  Earl  Grey 
"  539 


EDINBURGH 

Street ;  High  School  Yards  Mission  Chapel,  off  Infirm- 
ary Street ;  St  Thomas's,  Rutland  Street ;  Christ  Church 
Chapel,  Morningside  ;  and  Christ  Church,  St  Vincent 
Street.  Of  Independent  or  Congregational  churches 
there  are :  Augustine  chapel,  George  IV.  Bridge ; 
Albany  Street  chapel  ;  Hope  Park  chapel  ;  Richmond 
chapel,  Preston  Street';  and  Caledonian  Road  chapel. 
Of  Roman  Catholic  places  of  worship  there  are :  St 
Mary's  Cathedral  at  Broughton  Street ;  St  Patrick's, 
Cowgate  ;  Church  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  Lauriston  Street ; 
and  St  Margaret's  Convent  chapel  near  Bruntsfield  Links. 
Of  minor  religious  bodies  there  are  Evangelical  Union 
churches  in  Brighton  Street,  in  Fountainbridge,  and 
the  Buccleuch,  in  Crosscauseway ;  Baptist  chapels  at 
Dublin  Street,  Bristo  Street,  and  Duncan  Street,  New- 
ington  ;  the  German  church  at  Bellevue,  the  Wesleyan 
Methodist  chapel  in  Nicolson  Square,  the  Primitive 
Methodist  Ebenezer  chapel  in  Victoria  Terrace,  the 
CathoUc  Apostolic  church  in  East  London  Street,  the 
Glassite  chapel  in  Barony  Street,  the  Friends'  or 
Quakers'  meeting-house  in  Pleasance,  the  Unitarian 
chapel  in  Castle  Terrace,  the  Jews'  S3magogue  in  Park 
Place,  etc.,  etc. 

A  presbj^tery  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  takes  name 
from  Edinburgh,  is  in  the  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweed- 
dale,  and  meets  at  Edinburgh  on  the  last  Wednesdaj'  of 
every  month  except  May.  It  has  jurisdiction  over  all 
the  old  parishes,  quoad  sacra  parishes,  and  chapels  of 
ease  within  the  parliamentary  bounds  of  Edinburgh  and 
Leith,  the  old  parishes  of  Colinton,  Corstorphine, 
Cramond,  Currie,  Duddingston,  Kirknewton,  Liberton, 
and  Ratho  ;  the  quoad  sacra  parishes  of  Gilmerton, 
Newhaven,  and  Portobello,  and  the  chapelries  of  Gran- 
ton,  Restalrig,  Portobello  Town-Hall,  Mayfield,  Merchis- 
ton,  and  Elder  Street. — The  Free  Church  also  has  a  pres- 
bj'tery  of  Edinburgh,  comprehending  the  41  churches 
within  the  burgh  and  suburbs,  5  in  Leith,  and  7  at 
respectively  Juniper  Green,  Corstorphine,  Cramond, 
Liberton,  Newhaven,  Portobello,  and  Ratho. — The  U.P. 
presbj'tery  of  Edinburgh  comprehends  the  26  churches 
within  the  burgh  and  suburbs,  5  in  Leith,  3  in  Dalkeith, 
2  in  Dunbar,  2  in  Haddington,  2  in  Musselburgh,  2 
in  Portobello,  2  in  Peebles,  and  1  each  at  Aberlady, 
Balerno,  Bathgate,  Broxburn,  Burra,  East  Calder,  East 
Linton,  Fala,  Ford,  Gorebridge,  Howgate,  Lasswade,  Ler- 
wick, Midcalder,  Mossbank,  Newlands,  North  Berwick, 
Ollaberry,  Penicuik,  Queen  sferry,  Slateford,  Tranent, 
West  Calder,  West  Linton,  and  'Whitburn.— The  Re- 
formed Presbyterian  presbytery  of  Edinburgh  has 
churches  in  Airdrie,  Loanhead,  Thurso,  Douglas  Water, 
Wick,  and  Wishaw.— The  United  Original  Seceders' 
presbytery  of  Edinburgh  has  churches  in  Edinburgh, 
Carluke,  Kirkcaldy,  and  Midholm. — The  Scottish  Epis- 
copal diocese  of  Edinburgh,  besides  its  13  churches 
within  the  bounds,  has  22  at  respectively  Alloa,  Alva,  Ar- 
madale, Balerno,  Borrowstounness,  Broxburn,  Dalkeith, 
Dalmahoy,  Dunbar,  Dunmore,  Dunse,  Falkirk,  Hadding- 
ton, Leith,  ilusselburgh.  North  Berwick,  Penicuik,  Por- 
tobello, Roslin,  Stirling,  Trinity,  and  Greenlaw. — The 
Roman  Catholic  diocese  of  St  Andrews  and  Edinburgh 
has  its  seat  in  Edinburgh,  and  reckons  within  that  diocese 
the  places  of  worship  in  Edinburgh,  and  27  others  re- 
spectively at  Leith,  Portobello,  Bathgate,  Broxburn, 
Dalkeith,  Denny,  Dunbar,  Dunfermline,  Falkirk,  Fauld- 
house,  Galashiels,  Haddington,  Hawick,  Innerleithen, 
Jedburgh,  Kelso,  Kilsyth,  Kirkcaldy,  Lennoxtown,  Lin- 
litligow,  Loanhead,  Oakley,  Peebles,  Ratho,  Selkirk, 
Stirling,  and  West  Calder. 

Edinburgh  is  always  the  meeting-place  of  the  General 
Assemblies  both  of  the  Established  and  the  Free 
Churches,  the  synod  of  the  United  Presbyterian  Church, 
the  Church  of  Scotland  synod  of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale, 
as  well  as  the  same  synod  of  the  Free  Church,  and  it 
alternates  with  other  of  the  chief  towns  of  Scotland  as 
the  meeting-place  of  the  Reformed  Presbyterian  Synod 
and  the  Congregational  Union. 

Population. — The   population    of    the   parliamentary 
burgh  in  1841  was  140,241  ;  in  1851,  160,302  ;  in  1861, 
163,121  ;  in  1871,  in  the  5  registration  districts  into 
540 


EDINBURGH 

which  the  city  is  now  divided,  the  census  returns  were 
—St  George's,  50,985 ;  St  Andrew's,  39,781 ;  Canongate, 
3.3,183;  St  Giles',  31,960;  Newiugton,  41,079— total, 
196,988.  In  1881  the  returns  were — St  George's,  males, 
29,412;  females,  36,016— total,  65,428;  St  Andrew's, 
males,  19,821;  females,  24,766— total,  44,587;  Canon- 
gate,  males,  13,231  ;  females,  15,459— total,  28,690  ;  St 
Giles',  males,  15,687  ;  females,  16,954— total,  32,641 ; 
Newington,  males,  23,483  ;  females,  30,612— total, 
54,095  :  showing  a  gross  total  of  males,  101,634  ;  females, 
123,801  =  225,435,  being  an  increase  in  the  ten  years 
from  1871  to  1881  of  28,447.  Adding  to  this  a  number 
of  persons  in  the  landward  districts  properly  to  be  con- 
sidered as  town  population,  the  census  returns  of  1881 
show  the  population  of  Edinburgh  to  be  altogether 
228,190;  separate  families,  52,668;  houses — inhabited, 
41,230  ;  vacant,  2616  ;  building,  426  ;  rooms  with  one 
or  more  windows,  172,863. 

Mortality.— In  1863  the  death-rate  was  26  per  1000, 
but  since  1867  there  having  been  about  3000  unwhole- 
some houses  removed,  and  over  half-a-million  spent 
in  city  improvements,  letting  in  fresh  air  and  light 
where  they  were  unknown  before,  the  death-rate  has 
gradually  decreased,  and  the  number  of  deaths  in 
March  1882  was  372,  being  at  the  proportion  of  17  "18 
per  1000  of  the  population  ;  in  March  1881  the  rate 
was  21-69  per  1000.  In  March  1882  the  births  regis- 
tered were  352  males  and  330  females  =  682,  of  which  53 
were  illegitimate. 

History. — There  can  be  little  doubt  that  the  Castle 
rock  early  became  a  most  desirable  place  in  the  eyes  of 
the  ancient  inhabitants  of  the  district  on  which  to 
build  their  dwellings,  since,  from  its  precipitous  char- 
acter and  limited  accessibility,  a  defence  could  here  be 
easily  made  against  the  assaults  of  their  enemies.  That 
it  was  so  used  in  early  times  appears  from  the  name 
given  to  the  Castle  in  the  oldest  record  which  mentions 
it,  viz.,  Castell-Mynd-Agned — signif3'ing  the  'fortress  of 
the  hill  of  Agnes  ;  *  and  there  are  some  who  affirm  that, 
before  it  received  this  appellation,  it  had  been  fortified 
by  the  Ottadini  ere  their  subjugation  by  the  Romans, 
and  after  the  introduction  of  Christianity  dedicated  to 
St  Agnes.  At  a  later  date,  according  to  a  monkish 
fable,  it  is  said  to  have  been  the  refuge  of  the  daughters 
of  the  Pictish  kings,  they  being  kept  and  educated  here 
as  a  place  of  safety  in  barbarous  and  turbulent  times  ; 
and,  about  617,  when  the  Anglo-Saxons  absorbed  the 
Lothians,  it  derived  from  Eadwine,  a  powerful  king  of 
Northumbria,  the  name  of  Eadwinesburh.  The  Castle 
and  town — the  latter,  according  to  Simeon  of  Durham, 
being  about  854  only  a  considerable  village,  on  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  hill — next  became  a  possession  of  the 
Celtic  kings  in  the  reign  of  Indulf  (945-961),  and  was 
then  called  Dun-Edin,  signifying,  in  their  language, 
'  the  face  of  a  hill,'  and  descriptive  of  its  natural  aspect. 
The  name  given  to  the  Castle  and  the  town,  however, 
by  King  Eadwine  proved  to  be  the  one  by  which  it  was 
ever  afterwards  fated  to  be  known,  though  it  was  not 
till  about  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century  that  it 
came  to  be  recognised  as  the  capital  city,  being  long 
considered  to  be  too  near  the  English  border  to  be  a 
place  of  safety.  In  1093,  on  the  death  of  Malcolm  Ceann- 
mor,  Edinburgh  became  the  place  of  refuge  of  his  widow 
and  children,  and  was  besieged  by  Malcolm's  brother, 
Donald  Bane,  the  usurper  of  the  throne.  The  town, 
though  still  consisting  of  mean  thatched  houses,  had 
grown  to  be  one  of  the  most  important  by  the  time  of 
David  I.,  being  then  constituted  a  royal  burgh,  and  had 
in  the  reign  of  William  the  Lyon  made  material  pro- 
gress. King  William  made  the  Castle  a  frequent  place 
of  residence  ;  but  having  attempted  to  seize  a  portion  of 
Northumbria,  the  Scottish  king  was  defeated  by  Henry 
II.  of  England,  who  took  possession  of  the  Castle  in 
1174.  On  its  restoration  in  1186,  Ale.xander  II.,  son 
and    successor    of    William   the    Lyon,   held  his  first 

Parliament  in  Edinburgh,  and  in  1215  the  pope's  legate 
ere  held  a  provincial  synod.  Alexander  III.  made  it 
the  residence  of  his  youthful  queen,  the  daughter  of 
Henry  III.,  and  the  depository  of  the  regalia  and  the 


EDINBURGH 

archives  ;  and  here  also  Alexander  suffered  a  kind  of 
blocade  by  the  rebellious  Earl  of  Dunbar. 

Edinburgh  shared  greatly  in  the  turmoils  arising  from 
the  wars  of  the  succession,  owing  to  the  rivalry  of  Bruce 
and  Baliol  for  the  crown.  The  Castle  was  surrendered 
to  Edward  I.  in  1291  ;  and,  having  afterwards  thrown 
off  his  authority,  it  was  again  taken  possession  of  by 
him  in  1291,  when  the  authorities  of  Ilolyrood  swore 
fealty  to  the  English  king,  the  city  holding  out,  how- 
ever, till  1296.  After  holding  it  for  about  twenty 
years,  the  Castle  was  recaptured  in  1313  by  Randolph, 
Earl  of  Moray.  According  to  n  policy  he  adopted, 
Robert  Bruce,  after  the  battle  of  Bannockburn  in  1314, 
ordered  the  demolition  of  this  fortress,  as  he  had  done 
several  others,  lest  they  should  again  become  places  of 
protection  and  strength  for  the  English.  Holyrood 
Abbej'  was  in  1322  plundered  by  an  army  of  Edward  II.  ; 
in  1326  it  was  the  meeting-place  of  a  parliament  of  Robert 
Bruce,  and  in  1328  of  that  parliament  which  ratified  the 
treaty  with  Edward  III.  which  secured  the  independence 
of  Scotland.  In  1334,  after  Edward  Baliol  had  usurped 
the  throne  of  David  Bruce,  the  Castle  and  to:vn  were 
again  surrendered  to  Edward  III.,  who  had  invaded 
Scotland  to  support  Baliol.  "While  the  King  of  England 
lay  encamped  near  Perth  in  1336,  after  a  campaign 
■which  inflicted  great  distress  on  Scotland  and  reflected 
little  credit  on  England,  the  Earl  of  Moray  encountered 
a  body  of  mercenary  troops  under  Guy,  Count  of  Namur, 
on  their  way  to  join  Edward  at  Perth  at  the  Borough- 
muu'  near  Edinburgh.  INIoray  defeated  the  mercenaries, 
drove  them  in  confusion  into  the  town,  overtaking  and 
slaying  a  number  of  them  in  St  Mary's  Wynd  and 
Candleniaker  Row,  and  pursued  the  rest  to  the  dis- 
mantled heights  of  the  Castle  rock.  Being  unable  to 
defend  themselves  here,  they  surrendered  next  day  to 
Moray,  by  whom  they  were  set  free  on  condition  of 
never  again  bearing  arms  against  David  Bruce.  The 
Castle  was  rebuilt  and  strongly  garrisoned  in  1337  by 
Edward  III.  on  his  return  from  the  N,  but  in  1341  it 
■was  captured  by  Sir  "William  Douglas  through  means  of 
a  singularly  expert  stratagem.  One  of  Douglas's  party, 
feigning  to  be  an  English  merchant,  went  to  the  gover- 
nor of  the  Castle  and  represented  that  he  had  a  cargo  of 
wine,  beer,  and  spiced  biscuits  in  his  vessel,  just  arrived 
in  the  Forth,  which  he  wished  the  governor  to  purchase. 
Producing  a  sample  of  the  wine  and  another  of  the  beer, 
both  of  which  pleased  the  governor,  he  agreed  upon  a 
price  and  an  hour  for  the  delivery  of  the  goods,  which 
was  to  be  early  in  the  morning,  that  they  might  not  be 
intercepted  by  the  Scots.  At  the  hour  appointed  the 
merchant  arrived,  accompanied  by  twelve  resolute  and 
well-armed  followers,  habited  as  sailors,  and  the  Castle 
gates  were  immediately  opened  for  their  reception.  On 
entering  the  Castle,  they  easily  contrived  to  overturn 
the  waggon  on  which  the  supposed  goods  were  piled, 
and  instantly  put  to  death  the  warder  and  the  sentries. 
The  appointed  signal  being  given,  Douglas,  with  a 
chosen  band  of  armed  followers,  quitted  their  place  of 
concealment  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  rushed  into  the 
Castle.  Being  joined  by  their  confederates,  the  pre- 
tended sailors,  they  put  the  garrison,  after  a  brief 
resistance,  to  the  sword,  and  the  fortress  was  thus 
refined  by  the  Scots. 

Edinburgh  now  ceased  for  a  time  to  be  harassed  by 
the  English,  and  began  to  grow  more  into  consideration. 
During  the  reign  of  David  II.  it  was  the  seat  of  numer- 
ous parliaments,  the  source  of  several  issues  of  coin,  and 
confessedly  the  chief  town,  though  not  yet  the  actual 
capital  of  Scotland.  It  was  on  the  accession  of  the 
Stuart  dynasty  that  Edinburgh  first  became  the  chief 
burgh  of  the  kingdom,  and  its  fortunes  became  identified 
all  throughout  with  those  of  that  ill-fated  house.  In 
the  reign  of  Robert  II.,  the  first  king  of  that  line,  and 
who  made  it  the  royal  residence,  the  city  was  visited  by 
a  body  of  French  knights  and  gentlemen,  who  came  to 
give  aid  to  the  King  against  the  English.  Froissart 
describes  the  city  at  this  time  as  consisting  of  about 
4000  houses,  so  poor  that  they  could  not  afford  these 
French  visitors  anything  like  proper  accommodation. 


EDINBURGH 

Richard  II.,  in  1385,  in  retaliation  for  alleged  wTon^^s, 
made  an  incursion  into  Scotland,  set  fire  to  St  Giles' 
Church,  Holyrood  Abbey,  and  the  greater  part  of  the 
town,  spending  five  days  in  their  destruction,  but  waa 
foiled  in  his  attempt  to  capture  the  Castle.  Henry  IV., 
in  1400,  repeatedly  assaulted  the  Castle,  but  he  was 
firmly  repelled  by  the  Duke  of  Rothesay,  then  heir- 
apparent  to  the  Scottish  crown.  In  1402,  Edinburgh 
again  became  the  meeting-place  of  a  parliament,  con- 
vened  at  this  time  to  inquiro  into  the  assassination  of 
the  Duke  of  Rothesay  ;  but  while  James  I.  of  Scotland 
was  a  prisoner  in  England,  the  city  partook  of  the 
desolation  which  swept  generally  over  the  country, 
arising  very  much  from  the  continual  strife  of  the 
dominant  parties  for  the  ascendency,  when  the  Castle 
was  taken  and  retaken.  After  his  release  from  captivity 
on  the  payment  of  the  ransom,  to  which  the  city  con- 
tributed 50,000  English  merks.  King  James  frequently 
resided  here,  and  received,  in  1429,  at  Holyrood,  the 
submission  of  the  rebellious  Lord  of  the  Isles.'  At 
Holyrood  his  queen  gave  birth  to  a  son,  who  afterwards 
became  James  II.  ;  and  the  city  in  1431,  was  scourged 
with  a  pestilence,  which  added  not  a  little  to  the 
general  desolation  resulting  from  the  continual  strifes  of 
the  turbulent  nobility. 

Edinburgh  in  1436  was  the  scene  of  the  last  parlia- 
ment of  James  I.,  and  after  his  murder  on  Feb.  20, 
1437,  it  became  formally  the  metropolis  of  Scotland! 
James  II.  became  king  when  only  seven  years  of  age, 
and  was  the  first  king  crowned  at  Holyrood,  this  cere- 
mony having  previously  taken  place  at  the  palace  of 
Scone,  near  Perth.  During  his  minority  the  Castle  was 
a  frequent  scene  of  contests  and  intrigues  for  the  custody 
of  his  person  ;  and  this  stronghold  in  1444  was  held  by 
ex-chancellor  Crichton,  in  opposition  to  the  regent,  Sir 
Thomas  Livingstone.  A  serious  quarrel  having  occurred 
between  the  regent  and  Crichton,  the  king  for  a  time 
was  kept  as  a  kind  of  prisoner  in  the  Castle,  from  which 
he  was  released  by  the  artifices  of  his  mother,  who 
favoured  the  regent's  party.  In  1445-46  the  Castle  was 
besieged  by  the  King  in  person,  and  Crichton  at  last 
capitulated  on  terms  of  restoration  to  royal  favour. 
About  this  time  there  occurred  within  its  walls  a  singular 
instance  of  the  revolting  barbarity  of  the  times.  The 
Earl  of  Douglas,  in  the  exercise  of  the  great  power  which 
he  possessed,  encouraged  the  most  galling  op[»ression 
over  the  country,  and  was  sufficiently  strong  in  his 
numerous  retainers  to  bid  defiance  to  the  authority  of 
the  state.  Cunning  and  unscrupulous  in  their  policy, 
the  regent  Livingstone  and  Crichton  managed  to  decoy 
Douglas  into  the  Castle,  where  he  was  received  with  the 
most  hypocritical  demonstrations  of  friendship  and 
marks  of  favour.  At  the  close  of  a  banquet,  of  which 
Douglas  had  partaken  in  company  with  the  King,  a 
bloo(ly  bull's  head  was  set  before  him — a  signal  then 
well  known  to  be  the  precursor  of  an  immediate  and 
violent  death  to  him  before  whom  it  was  presented- 
Understanding  the  fatal  symbol  too  well,  Douglas 
sprang  to  his  feet,  but  both  he  and  his  brother,  who  was 
present  with  him,  were  instantly  seized  by  aimed  men, 
and,  despite  the  tears  and  entreaties  of  the  young  king 
for  their  preservation,  dragged  to  the  outer  court  of  the 
Castle,  and  there  murdered.  James  II.  and  his  queen, 
Mary  of  Gueldres,  whom  he  married  in  1449,  were  both 
great  benefactors  to  the  city,  which,  by  the  grants  and 
immunities  [they  bestowed,  was  more  indebted  for  its 
prosperity  to  them  than  to  any  previous  monarch. 

James  III.,  during  the  course  of  his  troubled  reign, 
also  conferred  on  the  city,  which  lie  made  his  chief 
place  of  residence,  various  other  privileges  ;  and  during 
his  time  Edinburgh  became  a  place  of  refuge  to  Henry 
"VI.  of  England,  after  his  defeat  at  Towton  in  1461. 
James  III.  married  the  Princess  Margaret  of  Denmark 
in  1469,  an  event  which  was  celebrated  by  the  city  witli 
much  rejoicing ;  but,  shortly  after,  Edinburgii  suffered 
again  the  desolating  effects  of  pestilence,  which  was  so 
deadly  and  destructive  that  a  parliament,  summoned  to 
meet  in  1475,  was  deterred  from  assembling.  Troubles 
of  anotlier  kind  soon  followed,  for  in  1478  the  Duke  of 

541 


EDINBURGH 

Albany,  a  putative  brother  of  the  King,  commenced  a 
series  of  intrigues  ■which  caused  much  disaster  to  the 
citj'  and  kingdom.  Albany  was  imprisoned  in  the 
Castle,  but  elfected  his  escape  to  France,  whence  he 
passed  in  1482  into  England,  and  bargained  there  with 
Edward  IV.  for  assistance  in  seizing  the  crown  of  Scot- 
land, pledging  himself  to  hold  it  as  Edward's  vassal. 
In  consequence  of  this,  an  English  army  under  the 
Duke  of  Gloucester  marched  ou  Edinburgh,  meeting 
there  with  little  or  no  resistance.  The  King  took  refuge 
in  the  Castle,  and  the  English  were  only  induced  to 
depart  after  the  reconciliation  of  the  King  and  Albany, 
on  payment  of  certain  sums  of  money  claimed  by  the 
English,  and  the  permanent  cession  of  the  town  of 
Ber^\•ick.  The  citizens  contributed  the  money,  and 
proceeded  to  the  Castle  to  escort  the  King  and  Albany 
to  Holyrood,  where  they  received  from  James  muni- 
ficent expressions  of  gratitude.  Albany  not  long  after 
again  conspired  against  the  King,  who  at  once  retired 
to  the  Castle  and  roused  the  citizens,  from  whom  he 
received  such  support  as  entirely  crushed  Albany's  trea- 
son. Early  in  14S8  James  again  became  hard  pressed 
by  a  powerful  combination  of  insurgent  nobles,  when 
he  deposited  his  treasure  and  other  valuable  effects  in 
the  Castle,  and  retired  to  the  North.  The  royal  army 
was  defeated  by  the  rebels  at  Sauchie  on  18  June  1488, 
and  though  the  King  escaped  from  the  field,  he  was 
afterwards  discovered  by  one  of  the  rebels  and  mur- 
dered. 

Edinburgh,  in  the  latter  part  of  1488,  amid  the  tur- 
bulence of  rebellious  faction,  was  the  meeting-place  of 
the  first  parliament  of  James  IV.,  and  for  some  time 
the  city  and  Castle  were  under  the  domination  of  the 
Earl  of  Both  well.  James  IV.,  as  he  grew  in  years, 
made  the  city  a  frequent  scene  of  tournaments  and 
other  like  entertainments,  and  in  1503  he  was  married 
at  Holyrood  to  the  Princess  Margaret  of  England, 
daughter  of  Henry  VII.,  from  which  union  descended 
that  line  of  Stuart  sovereigns  which,  in  the  follo\ring 
century,  united  both  kingdoms  under  one  crown.  In 
1513,  while  a  dreadful  plague  was  desolating  the  city, 
James  IV.  made  preparations  for  an  imprudent  expedi- 
tion into  England.  After  inspecting  his  artillery  in  the 
Castle  and  the  outfit  of  his  navy  at  Newhaven,  he  mus- 
tered all  his  available  forces  on  the  Boroughmuir,  from 
whence  he  marched  to  encounter  death  on  the  field 
of  Flodden.  The  city  lent  him  vigorous  aid,  sending 
many  of  its  burgesses  in  his  train  to  the  field  ;  and,  on 
receiving  news  of  his  total  defeat  and  death,  adopted 
resolute  measures  for  a  stern  resistance — fortifying  the 
town,  and  ordering  all  the  inhabitants  to  assemble  in 
military  array  to  oppose  the  expected  approach  of  the 
enemy.  The  privy  council  withdrew  for  some  time  to 
Stirling,  but,  a  peace  with  England  having  been  effected, 
James  V.  was  there  crowned.  The  Duke  of  Albany  in 
1515  was  appointed  regent  by  a  parliament  in  Edin- 
burgh, receiving  from  the  citizens  great  demonstrations 
in  his  favour ;  and  he  took  up  his  residence  at  Holyrood 
in  all  the  grandeur  of  royalty,  causing  the  young  King 
and  his  mother  to  retire  to  the  Castle.  Albany  after- 
wards adopted  measures  which  first  drove  the  dowager- 
queen  to  take  flight  with  the  young  King  to  Stirling, 
and  next  compelled  her  to  surrender  that  fortress  and 
return  to  Edinburgh,  when  the  regent  converted  the 
Castle  into  a  state  prison  for  the  King.  The  conten- 
tions of  parties  at  this  time  filled  the  city  Avith  excite- 
ment, deprived  it  of  the  most  ordinary  protection  of 
common  law,  and  made  it  the  scene  of  frec^ucut  strifes 
among  the  turbulent  nobles.  One  of  the  most  noted  of 
these  tumults  arose  between  the  Earl  of  Arran  and  Car- 
dinal Beaton  on  the  one  side,  and  the  Earl  of  Angus 
on  the  other.  Angus  having  roused  the  jealousy  of  the 
opposite  party  by  the  influence  he  had  gained  over  the 
young  King  through  his  marriage  with  the  queen- 
dowager,  he  and  his  friends  were  set  upon  near  the 
Netherbow  on  20  April  1515,  and  upwards  of  250  per- 
sons were  slain  in  tne  skirmish,  which  was  long  after- 
wards known  under  the  name  of  '  Cleanse  the  causeway.' 
Not  many  years  after  a  similar  skirmish  occurred, 
542 


EDINBURGH 

through  a  dispute  which  had  arisen  between  the  Earl 
of  Rothes  and  Lord  Lindsaj\  With  characteristic 
ferocity  they  attacked  each  other  with  their  retainers 
on  the  High  Street,  to  the  great  danger  of  the  inhabi- 
tants, and  such  was  the  fury  of  the  strife  that  peace 
was  not  restored  till  both  noblemen  were  made  prisoners 
by  the  city  authorities.  Pestilence  also,  and  a  menacing 
armed  force  from  the  Borders,  combined  in  1519  and 
1520  to  add  to  the  city's  calamities.  Parliaments  were 
held  in  1522  and  1523,  mainly  to  devise  measures  for 
suppressing  the  prevailing  lawlessness,  but  without  much 
effect.  In  May  1524  Albany  departed  for  ever  from 
Holyrood  to  France,  leaving  state  affairs  in  utter  con- 
fusion ;  and  the  dowager-queen  in  the  following  July 
proclaimed  that  James  V. ,  then  in  his  thirteenth  year, 
had  assumed  the  reins  of  government.  While  parlia- 
ment was  sitting  in  the  November  following,  the  Earl 
of  Angus  raised  a  disturbance,  which  drew  disastrous 
fire  from  the  Castle  upon  a  part  of  the  city.  Early  in 
1525  James  V.  removed  from  the  Castle  to  Holyrood, 
and  met  his  parliament  in  the  Tolbooth  ;  and  Angus,  in 
the  same  year,  acquired  such  ascendency  as  enabled 
him  to  impoverish  the  city  for  the  pampering  of  his 
favourites.  From  this  time  till  his  forfeiture  in  1528 
he  had  the  entire  kingdom  under  his  control,  occasion- 
ing incessant  disturbances  not  only  in  Edinburgh,  but 
throughout  the  whole  country. 

The  College  of  Justice,  the  germ  of  the  present  Court 
of  Session,  being  instituted  in  1532,  speedily  contributed 
to  raise  the  dignity  of  the  city,  and  draw  to  it  many 
wealthy  residents.  The  principles  of  the  Reformation 
had  also  begun  to  be  privately  diffused,  and  in  1534 
the  factwas  publicly  notified  in  the  execution  at  Greenside 
of  the  martyrs  Norman  Gourlay  and  David  Straitou.  The 
two  successive  consorts  of  James  V. ,  Magdalene  and  Mary 
of  Guise,  in  1537  and  1538  respectively,  made  public 
entrances  into  Edinburgh  amid  great  rejoicings,  and 
James,  having  died  at  Falkland  in  Dec.  1542,  was 
buried  in  Holyrood  by  the  side  of  Magdalene,  his  first 
queen.  Shortly  after  the  death  of  James,  Henry  VIII. 
of  England  proposed  an  alliance  between  his  son  Edward 
and  the  infant  Queen  Mary,  daughter  of  James  V. ,  on 
terms  unequal  and  dishonourable  to  the  Scots,  in  order 
to  obtain  the  dominion  of  their  country  ;  but  this  pro- 
posal, though  at  first  favourably  entertained  as  contain- 
ing provisions  agreeable  to  the  reformed  doctrines,  was 
resisted  powerfully  and  successfully  by  Cardinal  Beaton 
and  the  Catholic  party.  To  revenge  this  insult.  King 
Henry  sent  an  army  under  the  Earl  of  Hertford,  which, 
after  landing  at  Leith,  set  fire  to  Edinburgh,  Holyrood 
Abbey,  the  castles  of  Roslin  and  Craigmillar,  and  made 
an  unsuccessful  attempt  upon  Edinburgh  Castle.  John 
Lesley,  Bishop  of  Ross,  who  wrote  a  History  of  Scotland 
in  the  Scottish  language,  of  which  a  modernised  edition 
was  printed  by  the  Bannatyne  Club  in  1830,  gives  the 
following  account  of  this  event : — '  On  the  next  day, 
being  the  sixth  Jlay '  [the  day  after  the  English  army 
marched  from  Leith],  '  the  great  army  came  forward  with 
the  haill  ordinances,  and  assailed  the  town,  which  they 
found  void  of  all  resistance,  saving  the  ports  of  the 
town  were  closed,  which  they  broke  up  with  great 
artillery,  and  entered  thereat,  carrying  carted  ordin- 
ances before  them  till  they  came  in  sight  of  the  Castle, 
where  they  placed  them,  purposing  to  siege  the  Castle. 
But  the  laird  of  Stanehouse,  captain  thereof,  caused 
shoot  at  them  in  so  great  abundance,  and  with  so  good 
measure,  that  they  slew  a  great  number  of  Englishmen, 
amongst  whom  there  was  some  principal  captains  and 
gentlemen ;  and  one  of  the  greatest  pieces  of  the  English 
ordinances  was  broken  ;  wherethrough  they  were  con- 
strained to  raise  the  siege  shortly  and  retire  them.  The 
same  day  the  English  men  set  fire  in  divers  places  of  the 
town,  but  were  not  suffered  to  maintain  it,  through  con- 
tinual shooting  of  ordinance  forth  of  the  Castle,  where- 
with they  were  so  sore  troubled,  that  they  were  con- 
strained to  return  to  their  camp  at  Leith.  But  the 
next  day  they  returned  again,  and  did  what  they  could 
to  consume  all  the  town  with  fires.  So  likewise  they 
continued  Bome  days  after,  so  that  the  most  part  of  the 


EDINBURGH 

town  was  burnt  in  cruel  manner  ;  during  the  which 
time  their  horsemen  did  great  hurt  in  the  country, 
spoiling  and  burning  sundry  places  thereabout,  and  in 
special  all  the  Castle  and  place  of  Craigmillar,  where 
the  most  part  of  the  whole  riches  of  Edinburgh  was  put 
by  the  merchants  of  the  town  in  keeping,  which  not 
without  fraud  of  the  keepers,  as  was  reported,  was  be- 
trayed to  the  English  men  for  a  part  of  the  booty  and 
spoil  thereof.' 

After  the  battle  of  Pinkie  in  1547  the  city  was  again 
troubled  and  pillaged  by  an  English  force,  and  in  1548 
was  garrisoned  by  a  French  corps  of  6000  men,  sent  by 
Henry  II.  of  France  to  facilitate  the  intrigues  of  the 
queen-dowager,  Mary  of  Guise,  in  procuring  the  mar- 
riage of  the  infant  Queen  Mary  to  the  Dauphin  of  France. 
In  1551,  the  city  gave  a  great  reception  to  the  queen- 
dowager,  on  her  return  from  the  court  of  Henry  II., 
after  witnessing  there  the  marriage  of  Queen  Mary  to 
the  Dauphin  Francis.  John  Knox  arrived  in  Edinburgh 
in  1555,  and  by  his  impressive  discourses  to  large  and 
excited  audiences,  soon  attracted  many  zealous  adherents, 
and  speedily  gained  for  the  principles  of  the  Reformation 
general  and  popular  acceptance.  He  retired  for  a  time 
to  Geneva,  but  returning  in  1559,  found  his  partisans 
in  an  attitude  of  open  resistance  to  the  suppressive 
measures  of  the  queen  regent.  Multitudes  of  the  Re- 
former's party  organised  themselves  into  an  army  at 
Perth,  under  the  name  of  the  Army  of  the  Congi-egation, 
and,  marching  triumphantly  to  Edinburgh,  took  posses- 
sion of  the  mint  and  other  offices  of  government,  and 
presented  a  front  of  open  hostility  to  the  royal  forces. 
Leith,  which  was  then  put  in  a  fortified  condition, 
became  the  headquarters  of  the  Romish  or  government 
party,  who  were  aided  by  the  opportune  arrival  of  an 
auxiliary  force  from  France.  Edinburgh  was  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Reform  party,  and  entirely  in  their  pos- 
session, whilst  the  plain  which  stretches  between  the 
Calton  Hill  and  Leith  became  the  scene  of  frequent 
skirmishes  and  resolute  onslaughts.  The  irregular 
troops  of  the  Reformers  could  ill  cope  with  the  well- 
disciplined  auxiliaries  from  France ;  but  eventually, 
aided  by  a  force  sent  by  Elizabeth  of  England,  they  suc- 
ceeded about  the  middle  of  1560  in  expelling  the  queen 
regent's  forces  from  the  kingdom.  They  then  dismantled 
Leith,  and  removed  every  hindrance  to  the  ascendency 
and  civil  establishment  of  the  principles  for  which  they 
contended.  A  parliament  immediately  assembled  in 
the  city,  and  enacted  laws  for  the  abolition  of  Popery 
and  the  establishment  of  the  Presbjrterian  form  of  wor- 
ship. 

Queen  Mary,  after  the  death  of  her  husband  Francis, 
sailed  from  France,  and  made  a  public  entrance  into 
Edinburgh  in  Aug.  1561.  The  Ettrick  Shepherd  in- 
dulges a  poetic  licence  in  the  Queen's  Wake,  when  de- 
scribing Queen  Mary's  progress  from  Leith  to  Holyrood, 
after  her  return  from  France  : — 

'  Slowly  she  ambled  on  her  way, 
Amid  her  lords  and  ladies  gay. 
Priest,  abbot,  layman,  all  were  there. 
And  presbj'ter  with  look  severe. 

'  There  rode  the  lords  of  France  and  Spain, 
Of  England,  Flanders,  and  Lorraine ; 
While  serried  thousands  round  tliem  stood 
From  shore  of  Leith  to  Hol3Tood.' 

Mary  set  up  her  government  at  Holyrood,  where  she 
gave  formal  countenance  publicly,  but  not  privately,  to 
the  settlement  of  the  Reformation,  and  the  city,  with 
Knox  for  its  minister,  and  the  general  assembly  for  its 
most  influential  court,  now  gave  tone  to  the  whole 
country,  sought  to  make  an  end  of  the  very  remnants  of 
Popery,  and  kept  a  keen  and  observant  watch  on  the 
religious  predilections  and  social  manners  of  the  court. 
General  displeasure  soon  showed  itself  at  Mary's  fond- 
ness for  the  Romish  ritual,  and  her  disregard  of  the  Re- 
former's rigid  notions  of  morality.  Riotous  crowds  again 
and  again  assembled  beneath  her  palace  windows ;  Rizzio, 
her  favourite,  was  slain  at  her  feet ;  and  on  the  death  of 
her  second  husband.  Lord  Darnley,  and  her  subsequent 
marriage  to  Bothwell,  the  popular  indignation  burst  into 


EDINBURGH 

fury,  the  people  pursuing  her  and  Bothwell  from  the  city, 
and  taking  possession  of  the  seat  and  powers  of  govern- 
ment. Mary  was  brought  back  a  captive  from  Carberry 
Hill,  and  conducted  through  the  streets  amid  the  jeers 
and  insult  of  the  citizens  to  the  house  of  Sir  Simon 
Preston,  the  provost,  and  sent  off  a  prisoner  next  day  to 
Loch  Loven  Castle.  All  these  portentous  events  were 
crowded  into  the  space  of  one  year,  1567.  Four  succes- 
sive regents,  thence  tUl  1573,  failed  either  to  bring 
peace  to  the  metropolis,  or  a  cessation  of  hostilities  be- 
tween the  two  great  conflicting  parties  of  King's  men 
and  Queen's  men,  as  the  respective  partisans  of  Mary 
and  her  son,  James  VI.,  styled  themselves.  The  city, 
at  the  time  of  Mary's  escape  from  Loch  Leven  in  1568, 
was  both  desolated  with  pestilence  and  bristling  with 
arms ;  and,  after  the  assassination  of  Regent  Moray  at 
Linlithgow  in  1570,  suddenly  passed  under  the  military 
ascendency  of  the  Queen's  party.  Kirkcaldy  of  Grange, 
provost  of  the  city,  and  governor  of  the  Castle,  and  one 
of  the  ablest  soldiers  of  the  period,  ordered  all  opponents 
of  the  Queen  to  leave  the  city  within  six  hours,  planted 
a  battery  on  the  roof  of  St  Giles'  Church,  strengthened 
the  City  Walls,  and  provoked  a  long  and  disastrous  strife. 
Two  parliaments  sat  in  the  city  in  May  1571 — the  one 
on  the  Queen's  part  in  the  Tolbooth,  the  other  for  King 
James  in  Canongate,  and  while  they  fulminated  for- 
feitures at  each  other,  their  respective  partisans  main- 
tained a  continuous  conflict  with  frequent  skirmishes  in 
the  streets  and  lanes  of  the  harassed  city.  The  Castle 
was  held  for  the  Queen  with  great  superiority  of  ad- 
vantage ;  Calton  Hill,  overlooking  and  protecting  Holy- 
rood,  maintained  a  front  of  bravery  for  the  young  King, 
till  an  army  sent  by  Queen  Elizabeth  in  1573  from 
Berwick  eventually  brought  victory  to  the  followers  of 
the  King,  and  forced  the  Castle  to  surrender. 

On  the  coming  of  age  of  King  James,  the  city  was  the 
scene  of  a  succession  of  excitements — a  magnificent  public 
entrance  was  made  by  James  into  Holyrood,  when 
he  was  escorted  by  a  cavalcade  of  about  two  thousand 
horsemen  ;  the  Abbey  received  his  parliaments,  which 
sat  there  in  great  style  ;  and  there  the  King  made  a 
struggle  for  his  personal  liberties  and  royal  prerogatives 
against  factions  of  the  nobUity.  Costly  entertainments 
were  also  given  to  ambassadors  and  other  notables  in 
HoljTood  at  the  city's  expense,  till  at  length  he  pro- 
voked antipathy  and  insurrection  by  his  greed  and 
continuous  encroachments  on  public  rights.  At  times 
James  would  be  on  good  terms  with  the  citizens,  re- 
ceiving from  them  gifts  of  money  and  public  services ; 
while  again,  as  at  the  beginning  of  1579,  he  was  so  in- 
furiated at  them  that  he  left  the  city,  removed  all  the 
oflices  of  national  admini.stration,  threatening  to  utterly 
destroy  the  city,  and  cherished  such  an  intense  resent- 
ment that  nothing  short  of  the  intercession  of  Queen 
Elizabeth  could  induce  him  to  abate  his  anger.  After 
various  negotiations,  James  was  pleased  to  revoke  his 
declarations  of  hostility,  and  made  another  pompous 
ceremonial  entrance  into  Edinburgh,  amid  great  demon- 
strations of  loyalty;  but  in  1599  he  came  once  more 
into  collision  with  the  city,  this  time,  however,  with- 
out any  great  disturbance  of  the  public  tranquillity. 
He  delivered  a  formal  valedictory  address  in  St  Giles' 
Church  in  1603,  on  the  eve  of  his  departure  to  assume 
the  English  crown,  and,  after  a  lapse  of  fifteen  years, 
visited  the  city  again,  when  he  was  greeted  with  great 
demonstrations  of  joy  and  much  servile  adulation,  and 
presented  with  a  large  sum  of  monej'. 

Charles  I.  in  1633  was  crowned  Kin"  of  Scotland 
with  great  splendour  at  Holyrood,  and  held  in  the  city, 
two  days  after,  his  first  Scottish  parliament ;  but  shortly 
after,  by  his  proceedings  against  Presbytcrianism  and 
attempted  introduction  of  a  liturgy  and  bishopric,  on 
23  July  1637,  excited  strong  disalfection  to  his  govern- 
ment throughout  the  country,  and  kindled  a  resent- 
ment which  lasted  more  or  less  till  the  end  of  his 
dynasty.  In  all  this  Edinburgh,  as  the  seat  of  executive 
government,  had  an  extensive  and  distressing  share. 
The  citizens  were  organised  and  trained,  under  direc- 
tion of  the  town  council,  to  resist  the  King  s  mcasurea 

543 


EDINBURGH 

of  ecclesiastical  cliange.  A  stiff  conflict  of  beleaguer- 
ment  and  defence  arose  between  the  city  and  Castle, 
which  terminated  in  favour  of  the  city  ;  and,  though 
the  King  afterwards  appeared  in  person  and  was  well 
received  and  entertained  by  the  magistrates,  the  city 
still  adhered  to  the  cause  of  the  Covenant,  and  embodied 
a  regiment  of  1200  men  for  its  support.  On  the  esta- 
blishment of  the  Commonwealth  in  England,  however, 
the  city  offered  a  large  sum  of  money  to  maintain  a 
regiment  in  the  service  of  the  crown  ;  but  afterwards, 
on  the  plea  of  impoverishment  by  plague  and  civil  war, 
claimed  exemption  from  paying  it. 

Charles  II.  in  1650  was  proclaimed  at  the  Cross,  and, 
could  he  have  attained  tolerable  footing  in  England, 
would  evidently  have  been  well  supported  in  Edinburgh. 
Cromwell,  in  September  of  the  same  year,  following  up 
his  signal  victory  over  the  Scottish  army  at  Dunbar, 
took  possession  of  Edinburgh,  laid  siege  to  the  Castle, 
and  forced  it  to  capitulate  ;  and  towards  the  end  of  next 
year  allowed  the  magistrates,  who  had  all  left  the  city, 
to  return  and  resume  its  management.  The  city  enjoyed 
a  repose  of  several  years  under  Cromwell,  but  was  so 
impoverished  that  its  corporation  could  not  meet  a  claim 
upon  it  for  £55,000,  and  scarcely  any  citizen  was  able  to 
pay  his  debts.  The  news  of  the  Restoration  in  1660 
was  enthusiastically  welcomed,  and  drew  from  the  town 
council  a  congratulatory  address  and  gift  of  money  to 
the  King ;  but  parliaments  which  met  in  Jan.  1661 
and  May  1662,  and  which  hurled  enactments  against 
Presbyterianism  and  in  favour  of  Prelacy,  renewed  all 
the  former  confusion,  and  gave  rise  to  strong  measures 
against  the  Covenanters.  Edinburgh  was  put  in  a  pos- 
ture of  defence ;  its  gates  were  barricaded,  and  all  ingress 
and  egress  prohibited  without  a  passport.  The  very 
members  of  the  law  courts  assumed  arms  ;  the  gentle- 
men of  the  surrounding  country  were  called  in  to  afford 
their  aid  ;  and,  from  1663  till  the  end  of  Charles  XL's 
reign,  the  city  was  the  scene  of  the  trial,  torture,  and 
execution  of  great  numbers  of  Covenanters,  many  of 
them  the  best  and  brightest  men  of  the  age.  But  the 
tyranny  which  was  exercised,  the  inquisitorial  proceed- 
ings carried  on,  the  martyrdoms  which  were  endured, 
and  the  practising  of  military  manoeuvres  by  a  standing 
army  in  their  midst,  did  not  for  an  hour  coerce  the 
inhabitants  into  submission,  and  scarcely  succeeded  in 
repressing  them  from  attempting  bold  though  hopeless 
deeds  of  insurrection. 

The  Duke  of  York,  afterwards  James  II.  of  England 
and  VII.  of  Scotland,  resided  in  Edinburgh  from  1679 
to  1682,  and  diffused  among  the  people  a  ruinous  taste 
for  show  and  extravagance,  luring  the  magistrates  into 
many  acts  of  mean  servility.  During  his  short  reign 
from  1685  till  1688,  this  morose  and  bigoted  King 
adopted  such  strongly  offensive  local  measures  in  favour 
of  Roman  Catholics,  as  provoked  general  disgust,  and 
caused  several  riotous  outbreaks.  In  particular,  after 
convoking  a  parliament  in  Edinburgh  in  1686,  and  find- 
ing it  not  sufficiently  pliable  for  his  purposes,  he,  by  his 
own  authority,  did  what  the  parliament  refused  to  do — 
took  the  Catholics  under  his  royal  protection,  assigned 
for  the  exercise  of  their  religion  the  chapel  of  Holyrood 
Abbey,  and  promoted  as  many  Catholics  as  possilole  to 
the  privy  council  and  other  offices  of  government.  In 
all  his  actions  he  was  utterly  reckless,  and  prosecuted  his 
attempts  to  force  the  Catholic  religion  upon  the  people 
with  the  most  abhorrent  cruelty  and  consummate  mad- 
ness, which  ended  at  last  in  the  entire  subversion  of  the 
Stuart  dynasty,  after  an  existence  of  more  than  three 
centuries.  Towards  the  end  of  1688  his  officers  of  state 
sank  into  inaction  under  fear  of  the  anticipated  move- 
ments of  the  Prince  of  Orange,  the  court  of  session 
almost  ceased  to  sit,  the  students  of  the  University 
burned  the  Pope  in  effigy,  and  clamoured  for  a  free 
I>arliament,  and  the  Earl  of  Perth,  the  acting  head  of 
the  government  of  Scotland,  at  length  took  flight  to 
the  Highlands,  leaving  the  city  entirely  at  its  own 
disposal. 

No  sooner  did  it  become  known  that  the  Prince  of 
Orange  had  landed  in  England,  and  that  the  regular 
5ii 


EDINBURGH 

troops  were  withdrawn  from  Scotland,  than  Edinburgh 
was  peopled  with  Presbyterians  from  every  part  of  the 
country,  and  the  city  became  a  scene  of  tumultuous 
confusion.  A  mob,  comprising  citizens,  students,  and 
strangers,  rose  at  the  beat  of  drum,  gave  riotous  expres- 
sion of  inveterate  hatred  against  everything  popish  and 
prelatic,  and  proceeded  to  demolish  the  royal  chapel  of 
Holyrood.  There  they  were  fired  upon  and  repulsed  by 
a  guard  of  some  hundred  men,  who  still  adhered  to  the 
interests  of  James.  The  mob,  however,  soon  rallied, 
and  overcame  the  guard,  slaying  some  and  capturing 
the  rest ;  they  then  pillaged  the  Abbey  Church,  pulled 
down  the  Jesuits'  college,  plundered  and  sacked  other 
religious  houses  and  private  dwellings  of  Roman  Catho- 
lics throughout  the  city,  and  burned  at  the  cross  the 
paraphernalia  of  the  Roman  Catholic  chapels  ;  in  short, 
everything  connected  with  the  scorned  religion  or  the 
ecclesiastical  policy  of  the  dethroned  monarch  was 
extirpated  with  a  fierceness  approaching  to  frenzy.  The 
magistrates,  notwithstanding  their  former  obsequious- 
ness to  James,  were  equally  zealous  in  their  alacrity  to 
accept  the  Revolution,  and  promptly  sent  a  congratu- 
latory address  to  the  Prince  of  Orange,  assuring  him  of 
their  allegiance.  A  Convention  of  Estates,  soon  after 
held  at  Edinburgh,  declared  the  forfeiture  of  James  VII. , 
and  offered  the  crown  of  Scotland  to  William  and  Mary. 
It  next  abolished  prelacy  and  re-established  Presby- 
terianism ;  and  this  convention  was  protected  during 
its  sittings  by  6000  Covenanters  from  the  West.  The 
Castle  continued  for  some  time  to  be  held  for  the 
Jacobites  by  the  Duke  of  Gordon,  and  received  some 
slight  support  from  a  small  armed  force  under  Viscount 
Dundee,  prowling  about  the  outskirts  ;  but  though  the 
Jacobite  party  thus  menaced  the  city  and  occasioned 
some  panic,  it  made  no  active  demonstration,  and  after 
the  last  hopes  of  the  party  were  extinguished  at  Killie- 
crankie,  the  Castle  surrendered  in  June  1689. 

The  citizens  of  Edinburgh  now  cherished  bright  pros- 
pects of  prosperity,  and  began  to  turn  their  attention 
to  commerce,  through  which  they  saw  great  advantages 
were  gained  by  other  states ;  and  a  company  was 
formed  to  establish  a  colony  on  the  Isthmus  of  Darien, 
which  they  thought  might  become  an  emporium  for 
American  and  Indian  produce.  They  subscribed  among 
themselves  for  this  purpose  about  £400,000,  to  which 
was  added  moi-e  than  as  much  again  by  merchants  in 
Holland  and  in  London.  The  jealousy  of  other  trading 
companies,  and  the  remonstrances  of  the  Spaniards,  who 
feared  interference  with  their  colonies,  induced  King 
William  to  withdraw  his  countenance  from  the  scheme, 
after  he  had  sanctioned  it  by  Act  of  Parliament ;  but, 
nevertheless,  a  gallant  expedition,  consisting  of  about 
1200  persons,  saUed  from  Leith  in  July  1698,  in  presence 
of  great  crowds  assembled  to  witness  the  departure. 
This  expedition  founded  a  town  called  New  Edinburgh, 
about  midway  between  Portobello  and  Cartagena, 
under  the  ninth  degree  of  latitude.  During  the  winter 
months  everything  seemed  likely  to  answer  the  expecta- 
tions of  the  colonists  ;  but  summer  brought  disease, 
and  on  their  provisions  running  low,  they  found,  to 
their  dismay,  that  they  could  get  no  supplies,  the 
Spanish  colonists  of  the  neighbouring  countries  being 
forbidden  to  deal  with  them.  In  May  and  Sept.  1699, 
ere  intelligence  of  these  circumstances  could  reach 
home,  two  other  expeditions  had  sailed,  consisting  of 
1800  men,  who  were  involved  on  their  arrival  in  the 
same  disasters.  After  disease  had  swept  off  hundreds, 
the  last  remaining  colonists  were  attacked  by  the 
Spaniards,  to  whom,  after  enduring  incredible  sufl'erings 
from  famine  and  disease,  the  survivors  were  compelled  to 
surrender  in  1701,  and  scarcely  a  waif  of  either  men  or 
means  ever  found  the  way  back  to  Scotland.  The  failure 
was  believed  to  arise,  in  a  great  degree,  from  court 
influence  and  intrigue ;  and,  being  concurrent  with 
some  other  disastrous  events  in  Scotland,  it  operated  to 
produce  in  Edinburgh  strong  feelings  of  sullenness  and 
irritation,  accompanied  by  tumults  and  riotous  out- 
breaks. 

The  accession  of  Queen  Anne  in  1702  was  received 


EDINBUBOH 

without  much  show  of  feeling,  but  the  meeting  of  par- 
liament at  Edinburgh  in  1706-7  to  discuss  the  proposal 
for  national  union  between  Scotland  and  England  caused 
much  excitement.  Even  while  the  proposal  was  merely 
hinted  at,  the  citizens,  smarting  under  the  Darien 
disaster,  with  the  recent  massacre  of  Glencoe  still  fresh 
in  their  memories,  and  dreading  the  removal  of  govern- 
ment offices  to  London,  regarded  it  with  keen  suspicion. 
When  the  proposal  became  known  in  its  details,  the 
long-cherished  antipathies  and  jealousies  of  all  classes 
against  England  kindled  into  a  fierce  spirit  of  opposition, 
and  the  citizens  pressed  in  vast  crowds  to  the  Parlia- 
ment House,  and  insulted  there  every  member  who  was 
believed  to  favour  the  union.  They  afterwards  attacked 
the  house  of  their  late  provost,  who  was  a  strenuous 
advocate  for  it,  then  scoured  the  streets,  became  ab- 
solute masters  of  the  city,  and  seemed  as  if  actuated 
by  a  desire  to  crush  the  authorities  altogether.  The 
crown-commissioner  ordered  a  party  of  soldjei-s  to  take 
possession  of  the  Netherbow,  posted  a  battalion  of  foot 
guards  in  Parliament  Square  and  other  central  localities, 
and  thus  quelled  for  a  time  the  surging  riot.  So  deep 
and  general,  however,  was  the  popular  rage,  and  so 
great  the  alarm  of  the  authorities,  that  nothing  less 
than  the  whole  available  force  was  deemed  sufficient  for 
protection.  The  horse  guards  attended  the  commissioner, 
a  battalion  was  stationed  at  Holyrood,  and  three  re,gi- 
ments  of  infantry  were  constantly  on  duty  in  the  city, 
and  these  proved  barely  strong  enough  to  protect  the 
parliament  during  its  deliberations  on  the  union.  The 
members  encountered  great  difficulties,  submitted  to  re- 
markable privations,  and  adopted  various  devices,  in 
order  merely  to  attach  their  signatures  to  the  deed — 
first  they  retired  in  small  numbers  to  a  summer-house 
behind  Moray  House  in  Canongate,  and  when  discovered 
and  scared  thence,  went  under  cover  of  night  to  an 
obscure  cellar  in  High  Street,  and  then,  before  they 
could  be  seen  by  persons  early  afoot  in  the  morning, 
took  a  precipitate  leave  of  the  city  and  started  for  Lon- 
don. Scenes  of  similar  violence  to  those  in  the  city 
also  occurred  in  many  parts  of  the  country — the  national 
pride  having  been  fairly  aroused  at  the  thought  that 
Scotland,  after  having  given  to  England  a  race  of  kings, 
should  become  a  province  of  the  latter  country,  and  the 
people  generally  protested  that  the  votes  in  parliament 
had  been  influenced  bj^  military  compulsion.  Edinburgh 
now  suff"ered  loss  of  a  great  part  of  her  prosperity,  and 
lay,  for  many  years,  in  an  impoverished  and  heart- 
stricken  condition. 

The  Rebellion  of  1715  commenced  with  an  attempt  to 
capture  Edinburgh  Castle  by  surprise,  but  this  was 
checked  at  the  outset  by  measures  which  foiled  it. 
Fifteen  hundred  insurgents  marched  from  Fife  upon 
the  city,  but  found  it  so  well  prepared  by  the  forti- 
fications which  the  magistrates  had  erected,  and  by  the 
presence  of  a  force  under  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  to  give 
them  a  warm  reception,  that  they  declined  to  attack  it, 
and  soon  after  dispersed.  The  arrival,  shortly  after,  of 
6000  Dutch  troops  prevented  the  city  from  suffering 
any  further  menace.  A  remarkable  tumult  occurred  in 
Edinburgh  in  1736,  which  is  known  by  the  name  of  the 
Porteous  Mob.  Two  smugglers,  named  Wilson  and 
Robertson,  had  been  condemned  to  death  for  robbing 
the  collector  of  excise  at  Pittenweem,  in  Fifeshire. 
Both  these  criminals  made  an  attempt  at  escape  one 
night  by  forcing  a  bar  from  the  vsindow  of  their  cell  in 
the  Toibooth  prison,  but  Wilson,  being  a  stout  and 
powerful  man,  stuck  fast  in  trying  to  get  through,  so 
that  the  jailors  were  alarmed  and  the  escape  frustrated. 
Wilson  regretted  much  that  he  had  attempted  the 
passage  first,  and  considering  that  by  doing  so  he  had 
prevented  his  fellow-culprit  Robertson's  escape,  made 
a  desperate  resolve  that  he  would  yet  give  him  an 
opportunity  of  evading  the  last  penalty  of  the  law. 
According  to  custom  they  were  taken,  under  the  charge 
of  four  soldiers,  to  hear  sermon  at  the  Toibooth  Church 
on  the  Sunday  previous  to  their  execution.  When  the 
congregation  was  dismissing,  Wilson  suddenly  seized 
one  of  the  guards  with  each  hand,  and  a  third  with  his 
35 


EDINBUBOH 

teeth,  calling  to  Robertson  to  make  his  escape,  which 
he  very  quickly  did,  after  knocking  down  the  fourth 
guard.  Wilson's  bold  exploit  made  him  an  olject  of 
popular  symjiathy,  and  the  magistrates,  being  afraid  of 
a  riot  and  an  attempt  at  rescue  on  the  day  of  execution, 
supplied  the  town-guard,  then  commanded  by  Captain 
Porteous,  with  ball  cartridge.  After  the  execution  of 
Wilson  in  the  Grassmarket,  the  crowd  began  to  hoot, 
and  throw  stones,  as  well  as  other  missiles,  at  the 
executioner  and  the  guard,  when  Captain  Porteous 
rashly  ordered  his  men  to  fire,  and  six  people  were  killed 
and  eleven  wounded.  For  this  conduct  Captain  Porteous 
was  tried  for  murder  and  condemned  to  be  hanged. 
George  IL  was  then  in  Hanover,  and  Queen  Caroline, 
who  was  acting  as  regent,  gave  a  respite  for  six  weeks  to 
the  convict,  preparatory,  it  was  oelieved,  to  a  full 
pardon  ;  but  such  was  the  exasperation  of  the  people, 
that  they  determined  he  should  suffer,  despite  the  royal 
clemency.  A  party  of  citizens  accordingly  assembled 
on  7  Sept.  1736,  the  night  previous  to  the  day  fixed 
for  Porteous'  execution,  and  sounding  a  drum,  soon 
gathered  an  immense  number  to  their  aid,  when  they 
took  possession  of  and  shut  the  gates  of  the  city,  to 
prevent  the  entrance  of  the  soldiers,  and  then  seized 
and  disarmed  the  town-guard.  The  mob  tried  to  force 
the  Toibooth  door  with  sledge-hammers  and  iron  bars, 
but  finding  these  ineffectual,  they  had  recourse  to  fire, 
and  soon  gained  an  entrance.  "The  rioters  seized  the 
unfortunate  prisoner,  and  carried  him  on  their  shoulders 
down  the  West  Bow  to  the  Grassmarket,  calling  at  a 
shop  on  the  way  to  provide  themselves  with  a  rope. 
Wishing  to  despatch  Porteous  as  near  the  place  where 
the  people  were  killed  as  possible,  *  they  selected  for 
the  purpose  a  dyer's  pole  which  stood  on  the  S  side 
of  the  street,  exactly  opposite  the  Gallows  Stone.  Here 
the  unfortunate  Captain's  body  was  found  dangling  in 
the  morning  by  the  authorities  —  the  rioters  having 
quietly  dispersed,  leaving  no  trace,  immediately  after 
the  deed  was  done.  Great  indignation  was  excited  by 
all  this  at  court — the  lord-  provost  being  taken  into 
custody,  and  not  admitted  to  baU  till  after  three  weeks' 
confinement.  The  city  was  threatened  with  severe 
punishment,  and  a  bill  passed  the  House  of  Lords  to 
confine  the  provost  for  a  year,  to  abolish  the  city  guard, 
and  raze  the  city  gates ;  but  in  the  Commons  this  bUl 
was  modified  into  an  order  upon  the  city  to  pay  the 
widow  of  Porteous  a  pension  of  £200  a  year. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  Rebellion  of  1745,  the  city  was 
put  in  a  posture  of  defence,  and  on  19  Au^.  Sir  John 
Cope,  with  the  troops  stationed  at  Edinbiu-gli,  left  that 
city  for  the  North  to  meet  the  rebels.  Prince  Charles 
avoiding  an  engagement  with  Cope,  if  Cope  did  not 
rather  avoid  one  -Nrith  him,  descended  with  his  adher- 
ents upon  the  Lowlands  by  Perth,  and  crossed  the  river 
Forth  a  few  miles  above  Stirling.  Rapidly  proceeding, 
the  Prince  soon  reached  Corstorphine,  a  village  about  3 
mUes  from  Edinburgh,  where,  to  avoid  the  guns  of  the 
Castle,  he  made  a  southerly  detour  to  Slateford.  Charles, 
after  an  anxious  night  in  camp,  gave  orders  early  in  tlio 
morning  to  try  and  take  the  city  by  surprise.  A  party 
of  24  men  were  placed  at  the  Netherbow  gate,  and  60 
at  the  city  gate  at  St  Mary's  Wynd.  This  latter  gate 
being  opened  to  let  out  a  coach  containing  a  deputation 
which  had  been  sent  out  to  Prince  Charles  and  brought 
back  to  Edinburgh,  and  was  now  on  its  way  to  the 
Canongate,  gave  access  to  the  Highlanders,  who  rushed 
in,  overpowered  the  guard,  and  soon  obtained  {possession 
of  the  town.  Thus,  on  the  morning  of  17  Sept.,  tho 
citizens  found  the  government  of  their  capital  trans- 
ferred from  Kin"  George  to  the  Highlanders  under 
Prince  Charles  Edward,  acting  as  regent  for  his  father, 
and  at  noon  that  day  tho  heralds  with  tlicir  usual  for- 
malities proclaimed  James  VIL  as  king,  and  read  tlio 
Prince's  commission  of  regency,  dated  at  Rome,  23  Dec 
1743.  Charles,  having  learned  that  the  city  was  in 
possession  of  his  troops,  left  his  quarters  and  proceeded 
to  Edinburgh,  taking  a  route  which  would  not  expose 
him  to  the  fire  of  the  Castle  guns,  the  fortress  being  still 
held  by  the  royal  troops  under  General  Guest.     Passing 

545 


EDINBURGH 

round  by  Arthur's  Seat,  he  rode  forward  to  Holyrood, 
aud  lor  the  first  time  saw  the  palace  of  his  ancestors. 
Here  he  commenced  a  round  of  festivities,  compelling 
the  magistrates  to  furnish  supplies  and  the  citizens 
to  give  up  their  arms,  though  he  respected  their  private 
property.  After  his  return  from  the  victory  of  Pres- 
tonpans,  he  blockaded  the  Castle,  provoking  from  it  a 
cannonade  which  did  considerable  damage,  but  after  two 
days  he  removed  the  blockade,  and  thus  prevented  further 
mischief  to  the  inhabitants.  After  the  Prince's  final 
defeat  at  CuUoden,  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  visited  the 
city,  and  caused  14  of  the  standards  taken  from  the 
rebels  to  be  burned  at  the  cross — the  standard  of  the 
Prince  was  carried  thither  by  the  common  hangman,  and 
the  remaining  13  by  13  chimney-sweeps. 

Famine  tumults  occurred  in  the  city  in  1763,  1764, 
and  1765,  and  were  quelled  only  by  aid  from  the 
military.  In  1778  an  occurrence  took  place,  which, 
though  eventually  terminated  without  bloodshed,  at 
first  bore  a  threatening  aspect,  and  caused  great 
anxiety.  This  was  a  mutiny  of  the  Earl  of  Seaforth's 
Highland  regiment,  then  quartered  in  the  Castle.  It 
having  been  determined  to  send  the  regiment  to  India 
at  a  time  when  considerable  arrears  of  pay  were  due, 
the  soldiers  took  counsel  among  themselves  in  regard 
to  their  present  condition  and  future  prospects.  One 
morning,  as  the  regiment  was  at  drill  upon  Leith 
Links,  an  unusual  place  for  this  purpose,  suspicion 
was  aroused  that  they  were  about  to  be  entrapped  on 
board  ship,  and  sent  off  without  payment  of  their 
arrears.  Instantly,  as  in  all  probability  had  been 
previously  arranged,  the  whole  body  shouldered  their 
arms  and  marched  off  at  quick  step  to  Arthur's  Seat, 
and  fixed  their  quarters  near  its  summit.  Their 
officers,  in  the  first  instance,  tried  to  soothe  them  with 
fair  promises,  but  to  these  the  men  turned  a  deaf  ear, 
having  already  experienced  their  worthlessness.  Threats 
were  then  resorted  to,  but  these  were  equally  unavail- 
ing, as  the  Highlanders  knew  they  were  so  situated  as 
to  place  infantry  at  defiance,  and  that,  from  the  nature 
of  the  ground,  cavalry  would  be  equally  ineffective. 
When  it  was  then  represented  to  them  that  the  Castle 
guns  would  fire  upon  and  dislodge  them  from  their 
position,  the  answer  was  simply  that  the  Highlanders 
would  remove  behind  the  hill,  and  so  place  that  barrier 
between  them  and  the  new  danger.  In  these  circum- 
stances an  accommodation  through  the  intervention  of 
some  one  in  whom  the  Highlanders  would  place  confid- 
ence was  the  only  resource,  and  this  was  at  last  effected 
through  Lords  Macdonald  and  Dunmore,  on  whose 
honour  the  men  had  great  reliance.  Their  differences 
were  arranged  satisfactorily,  and  the  regiment  returned 
to  its  allegiance,  and  shortly  after  embarked  for  foreign 
service. 

A  no-Popery  riot,  on  the  occasion  of  the  attempt  to 
repeal  the  penal  laws  against  Catholics  in  1799,  led 
to  the  demolition  and  plimdering  of  several  chapels,  and 
the  destruction  of  considerable  property  belonging  to 
Roman  Catholics  ;  but  under  military  force  order  was 
restored  without  loss  of  life.  The  city,  during  the 
menaces  of  Buonaparte  against  Britain,  made  great 
demonstrations  of  loyalty,  and  raised  a  volunteer  force 
of  between  3000  and  4000  men. 

In  1822  George  IV.  made  a  visit  to  Edinburgh,  and 
remained  there  from  the  15th  till  the  29th  of  August, 
occasioning  great  excitement  in  the  city,  and  drawing 
to  it  many  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  country.  Two 
great  fires  broke  out  in  the  Old  Town  in  1824,  on  the 


EDINBURGH 

nights  of  24  June  and  15  November  respectively, 
working  great  destruction.  One  of  these  lasted  three 
days,  destroying  the  greater  part  of  the  High  Street 
between  St  Giles'  and  the  Tron  Church,  and  it  was  feared 
at  one  time  that  it  might  involve  the  whole  city.  The 
demonstrations  in  Edinburgh  which  accompanied  the 
general  demand  for  parliamentary  reform  in  1830,  were 
remarkably  strong,  as  were  also  those  associated  with 
the  election  of  the  first  members  for  the  city  under  the 
new  bill  in  1832.  Queen  Victoria  and  Prince  Albert 
visited  the  city  in  1842,  at  first  only  as  lying  on  their 
way  to  Dalkeith,  but  they  were  induced  to  make  public 
processions  through  the  streets,  and  were  everywhere 
received  with  the  greatest  enthusiasm,  even  greater  than 
that  extended  to  George  IV.  The  accounts  of  the  sudden 
overthrow  of  Louis  Philippe's  government  at  Paris  in 
Feb.  1848,  excited  intense  interest  in  Scotland.  On  the 
6th  and  7th  March  alarming  riots  took  place  in  Glasgow, 
and  on  the  latter  evening  a  serious  riot  also  occurred  in 
Edinburgh.  Upwards  of  3000  persons  assembled  at  the 
Tron  Church,  when  the  Lord  Provost  enrolled  a  number 
of  citizens  as  special  constables,  and  sent  to  Piershill 
and  the  Castle  for  military  aid.  The  sheriff  read  the 
Riot  Act,  and  advised  the  crowds  to  disperse.  These 
energetic  proceedings  succeeded  in  putting  a  stop  to  the 
disturbances,  but  not  before  considerable  mischief  had 
been  done. 

The  royal  family  again  visited  Edinburgh  in  1849 
and  1850,  and  on  the  latter  occasion  remained  two 
nights  at  Holyrood.  The  Prince  Consort  at  this  time 
publicly  laid  the  foundation  of  the  National  Gallery, 
amid  crowds  of  spectators  computed  to  amount  to  about 
150,000.  These  royal  visits  were  repeated  again  and 
again,  and  the  Prince  of  AVales  resided  at  Holyrood 
during  several  months  of  1859,  partaking  of  the  benefits 
Edinburgh  as  a  seat  of  learning.  In  1860  Her  Majesty 
reviewed  upwards  of  20,000  volunteers  in  the  Queen's 
Park  ;  aud  in  1861  the  Prince  Consort  officiated  at  the 
laying  of  the  foundation-stones  of  the  new  General 
Post  Office  and  the  Industrial  Museum — this  being 
among  the  last  public  appearances  which  the  Prince 
made,  as  he  died  a  few  months  afterwards.  A  great 
public  illumination  was  made  in  1863  on  the  occasion  of 
the  marriage  of  the  Prince  of  Wales,  which,  alike  for 
the  artistic  beauty  of  many  of  its  features  and  its 
general  effect,  has  rarely,  if  ever,  been  equalled  by  any 
city.  The  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales  made  a  public 
appearance,  accompanied  with  great  masonic  display,  on 
the  occasion  of  the  Prince  laying  the  foundation-stone 
of  the  new  Royal  Infirmary  in  1870.  In  1874,  on  the 
occasion  of  the  marriage  of  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh, 
another  illumination  took  place,  though  on  a  smaller 
scale  than  that  of  1863.  Repeated  visits  have  been  made 
by  Her  Majesty  to  the  city  since  the  occasions  already 
mentioned,  and  in  Aug.  1881,  the  Queen  again  reviewed 
the  northern  volunteers  to  the  number  of  about  40,000 
in  the  Park  at  Holyrood. 

Edinburgh  was  the  meeting-place  of  the  British 
Association  in  1834,  1850,  and  1871  ;  of  the  Social 
Science  Congress  in  1863  and  1880  ;  of  the  Highland 
and  Agricultural  Society  in  1842,  1848,  1859,  1869, 
and  1877  ;  and  of  the  Librarians'  Congress  in  1880.  In 
April  1882  an  International  Fisheries  Exhibition  was 
held  in  the  Waverley  Market,  at  which  were  shown  a 
comprehensive  variety  of  appliances  relative  to  fishing 
and  the  curing  of  fish,  the  stocking  of  lakes  and  rivers, 
salmon  ladders,  fisii-hatching,  models  of  improved 
fishing-boats,  and  other  relative  inventions. 


546 


INDEX    TO    EDINBURGH. 


A.  PAGE 

Abbey  Sanctuary,  .  .  .479 
Abercromby  Place,  .  .  .  484 
Advocates'  Close,  .  .  .  477 
Advocates  Library,  .  .  ,  495 
Albert  Gallery,  .  .  .507 
Albert  Memorial,  .  .  .  501 
Alison  Square,  ....  483 
Anchor  Close,  ....  477 
Ann  Street,  .  .  .  .484 
Antiquarian  Museum,  .  .  506 
Arboretum,  ....  507 
Arcade,  Princes  Street,  .  .  528 
Architecture,  ....  487 
Art  Galleries,  .  .  .  .506 
Arthur's  Seat,  .  .  .  .467 
Assembly  Rooms,  .  .  .  499 
Asylums, 524 

B. 

Bakehouse  Close,  .  .  .  479 
Bank  of  Scotland,  .  .  .496 
Bank  Street,      .        .        .        .481 

Baths, 530 

Baxter's  Close,  ....  477 
Blackfriars  Street,  .  .  .  481 
Blair  Street,  .  .  .  .477 
Blenheim  Place,  .  .  .  485 
Blind  Asylum,  ....  513 
Board  Schools,  .  .  .  .512 
Boroughmuir,  ....  487 
Botanic  Garden,  .  .  .  507 
Botany  of  Edinburgh,        .        .     473 

Bridges, 481 

British  Linen  Company  Bank.  .  496 
Brodie's  Close,  ....  477 
Broughton  Street,  .  .  .  485 
Bruntsfield  Links,  .  .  .  530 
Buccleuch  Place,  .  .  .  483 
Bums'  Monument,  .  .  .  501 
Bums'  Tavern,  ....  477 
Business  Premises,     .        .        .     528 

C. 

Caledonian    Insurance    Co. 

Office, 497 

Calton  Hill,       .        .        .     467,  529 
Candlemaker  Row,    .        .        .     482 
Canongate,         ....     478 

Canongate  Church,    .        .        .     479 
Canongate  Parish,      .         .         .     480 
Cap  and  Feather  Close,     .        .     481 
Carlton  Street,  ....     484 

Carlton  Terrace,         .         .         .     485 
Castle,        .        .        ...        .489 

Castle  Hill,        .        .        .        .478 

Castle  Street,     .         .         .         .484 

Castle  Terrace,  ....     481 

Catholic  Apostolic  Church,         .     521 
Cattle  Market,  ....     525 

Cemeteries,        .         .         .  522 

Chambers  Street,  .  .  .482 
Charles  IL,  Statue  of,  .  477,  499 
Charles  Street,  ,  .  .  .483 
Chessels  Court,  .         .         .     480 

Children,  Hospital  for  Sick,  .  523 
Civil  E(Ulices  (Extinct),     .        .     502 


PAGE 

Classical  Schools,  .  .  .  508 
Clerk  Street,  ....  482 
Club  Houses,     ....     528 

Clubs  and  Societies,  .         .  .534 

Clydesdale  Bank,       .         .  .     496 

Coates  Crescent,        .        .  .     487 

Cockburn  Street,       .        .  477,  481 

College  of  Justice,      .         .  ,     542 

College  Wynd,  .         .         .  .482 

Comely  Bank,    .         .         .  .484 

Commercial  Bank,     .         .  .     496 

Corn  Exchange,         .        .  .     496 

County  Hall,     .        .        ,  .495 

County  Square,          .        .  .     477 

Court  of  Session,        .        .  ,     494 

Courts,  Local  and  Imperial,  .     531 

Covenant  Close,         .        .  .     477 

Cowgate,   ....  467,  482 

D. 

Danube  Street,       .        .  .    484 

Davidson's  Close,       .        .  .     479 

Dean, 486 

Dean  Bridge,     .        .        .  .486 

Dean  Cemetery,  .  .  .  486 
Distance  from  Principal  Towns,     467 

Donaldson's  Hospital,        .  .     512 

Doune  Terrace,          .        .  .     486 

Drainage  and  Cleaning,     .  .     530 

Drinking  Fountains,          .  .     526 

Drummond  Place,      .         .  .     484 

Dunbar's  Close,         .        .  .    477 

E. 

Ecclesiastical  Affairs,  .    539 

Ecclesiastical  Halls,  .         .  .514 

Edinburgh  Academy,         .  .     509 

Edinburgh  Institution,  .  .  509 
Edinburgh  Life  Insurance  Co.,  .     497 

Episcopalian  Churches,      .  .     520 

Established  Churches,        .  515,  539 

Exchequer  Chambers,        .  .    494 


PASS 

.  482 
.  484 
407,  485 
.  517 
.  499 


F. 
Fettes  College, 
Finances,  . 
Fishmarket  Close, 
Fleshmarket  Close, 
Fountains, 
Frederick  Street, 
Free  Church  College, 
Free  Churches,  . 


.  509 

,  533 

.  477 

.  477 

.  526 

.  484 

.  514 

518,  539 


Free  Church  Normal  School,     .  479 

G. 

Gallowlee,      .       .       .       .485 

Gas  Works 526 

General  Post  Office,   .         .        .  497 

General  Register  House,    .        .  498 

Geology  of  Edinburgh,      .        .  469 
George  IV.  Bridge,    .        .        .481 

George  Scpiare, ....  483 

George  Street,    ....  483 

Gillespie's  Hospital  and  School,  510 

Gloucester  Place,        .         .         .  486 

Government,      ....  531 


Grassmarket,     . 
Great  King  Street,     . 
Greenside, 

Greyfriars'  Churches, 
Gymnasium,  Royal  Patent, 

H. 
Hanovek  Street,  .  .  .484 
'  Heart  of  Midlothian,"  .  .  477 
Heriot  Row,  ....  484 
Heriot's  Hospital  and  Schools, .  510 
High  Church,  ....  515 
High  Constables,  .  .  .533 
High  School,  ....  508 
Hillside  Crescent,  .  .  .485 
History  of  City,  .  .  .  540 
Holyrood    Abbey   and    Palace, 

491,  543,  546 
Hope  Street,  ....  484 
Horse  Wynd,  ....  482 
Hospital  for  Sick  Children,  .  523 
Hospitals,  .        .        .     523,  524 

Hospital  Schools,      .        .  510 

Hotels, 528 

House  of  Refuge,  .  .  .  524 
Hunter's  Bog,  .  .  .  .467 
Hunter  Square,         ,        .        .    477 


Incurable  Hospital,  .  .  .')23 
Industrial  Museum,  .  .  .  505 
Industries  and  Trade,  .  535,  536 
Infirmary  and  other  Institutions,  523 
Infirmary  Street,  .  .  .  482 
Inland  Revenue  Office,      .        ,    528 

J. 

Jack's  Land 479 

James'  Court,  .  .  .  .477 
Jefi"rey  Street,  .  .  .  479,  481 
Johnston  Terrace,  .  .  .  481 
Jordan  Burn,  ....  487 
Judicial  Buildings,    .        .        .    495 

K. 
Kennedy's  Close,    .       .       .477 
King's  Bridge,  .        .        .        .481 


Lady  Glenorchy's  CFiuRcn,    .  518 

Lady  Stair's  Close,    .        .  477 

Lady  Yester's  Church,       .  517 

LangGaitt,       ....  483 

Latitude, 467 

Leith  Street 484 

Leith  Walk 485 

Leith  Wynd,     .        .  .479 

Leopold  Place 485 

Libbertou's  Wynd,    .        .        .  477 

Libraries, 4".t5 

Life  Association  Ollice,      .        .  497 

Literary  Instituli-,     .         .         .  508 

London  Road,  ....  485 

Low  Calton,       ....  485 

Lunatic  Axyluni,        .  524 
547 


EDINBURGH 

EDINBURGH 

M. 

PAGE 

PAGE 

PAGE 

Magdalene  Chapel, 

.    482 

Princes  Street,  . 

.     483 

Scottish  Provident  Institution, .     497 

Manor  Place, 

.    487 

Princes  Street  Gardens, 

.     529 

Scottish  Union  and  National  In- 

Market Structures — 

Printing  and  Publishing, 

.    536 

surance  Co.,  . 

.     497 

Flesh  and  Fish  Markets,     .    525 

Prisons,     . 

.     498 

Scottish  Widows'  Fund, 

.    497 

Cattle  Market,    . 

.    525 

Public  Halls,     . 

.     528 

Seal  of  City,      . 

.     531 

Marshall  Street, 

.    483 

Public  Schools, . 

.    513 

Shakespeare  Square,  . 

.     485 

Masonic  Lodges, 

,    535 

Short's  Observatory, . 

.     499 

Meadows,  . 

529,  530 

Q. 

Signet  Library, . 

.     495 

Medical  College,  New, 

.     504 

Queen  Street, 

.    484 

Silvermills, 

.     484 

Medical  Schools,  Extra  Mural,  .     505 

Queensberry  House,  . 

.    479 

Site,  .... 

.    467 

Melville  Street, , 

.     487 

Queensferry  Street,   . 

.    486 

Slaughter  Houses,     . 

.    525 

Merchant  Company,  . 

.     532 

Social  Condition, 

.    534 

Merchant  Company's  Scho 

ols,  .     510 

R 

Societies  and  Clubs,  . 

.    534 

Merchiston  Castle,     . 

.     487 

Raeburn  Place, 

.    484 

South  Back  of  Canongate, 

.     478 

Milne's  Court,   . 

.     477 

Railway  Works, 

.     526 

South  Bridge,    . 

.     481 

Milne  Square,    . 

.     477 

Ramsay  Lane,   . 

.     478 

Stamp  Office  Close,   . 

.        .     477 

]\Iilton  House,    . 

.     479 

Ramsay's  (Allan)  House, 

.     478 

Standard  Insurance  Co.  Office,  .     497 

IMinto  House,    .        . 

.     506 

Randolph  Crescent,  . 

.     486 

Stewart's  Hospital,    . 

.     510 

Monuments, 

.     499 

Refuge  Asylums, 

.     524 

Stockbridge, 

.     484 

Moray  House,    . 

.     479 

Regent  Bridge, 

.     485 

Surgeons'  Hall, 

.    505 

Moray  Place, 

.     486 

Regent  Road,    . 

.     485 

Morningside, 

.     487 

Regent  Terrace, 

.     485 

T, 

Morningside  Church, 

487,  518 

Reservoir,  Castle  Hill, 

.     526 

Telegraphs, 

.    498 

Morocco  Land,  . 

.     480 

Revenue  and  Expenditure 

.    533 

Telephonic  Company, 

.    498 

Mortality  of  City,      . 

.    540 

Riddle's  Close,  . 

.    477 

Theatres,   .        .        . 

.     499 

Mound, 

.     483 

Rock  Garden  and  Fernery 

.     529 

Theological  Colleges, 

.     514 

Municipal  Bodies, 

.     532 

Roman  Catholic  Churches 

.     522 

Tolbooth  (Canongate), 

.     479 

Museum  of  Science  and  Ai 

t,     .     505 

Roman  Catholic  Schools, 

.     514 

Trade  and  Industries, 

635,  536 

Music  Hall, 

.    499 

Roman  Eagle  Hall,    . 

.    477 

Trades'  Maiden  Hospital, 

.     512 

Ross  Fountain,  . 

.     526 

Tramways, 

.     528 

N. 

Roxburgh  Close, 

.    477 

Trinity  College  Church, 

.    516 

National  Bank, 

.    496 

Royal  Bank, 

.    497 

Tron  Church,     . 

.    516 

National  Gallery, 

.    507 

Royal  Circus,    . 

.     484 

Nelson's  Monument, . 

.    501 

Royal  Crescent, 

.     484 

U. 
Union  Bank,    . 
United  Presbyterian  Chu 

New  Buildings, 

.     481 

Royal  Exchange, 

.     496 

.    496 
ches, 
519,  539 
.    503 

Newspapers, 
New  Street, 

.     538 
.    479 

Royal  Infirmary, 
Royal  Institution, 

.     523 
.     506 

New  Town, 

.    483 

Royal  Observatory, 

.     507 

University, 

Nicolson  Square, 

.     482 

Royal  Terrace,  . 

.     485 

Nicorson  Street, 

.     482 

Rutland  Square, 

.     487 

North  Back  of  Canongate, 

.     478 

V. 

North  Bridge,    , 

.     481 

S. 

Veterinary  Colleges, 

.     506 

North  British  and    Merc 

mtile 

St  Andrew's  Church, 

.     517 

Victoria  Hall,    . 

.     514 

Insurance  Co. , 

.     497 

St  Andrew  Square,    . 

.     483 

Victoria  Street, 

.     432 

Nor'  Loch, 

.     481 

St  Andrew  Street,     . 

.     484 

St  Anthony's  Chapel, 

.     469 

W. 

0. 

St  Bernard's  Crescent, 

.     484 

Warrender  Park,  . 

.     529 

Old  Assembly  Close, 

.    477 

St  Cuthbert's  Parish,       4 

iO,  502,  517 

Warriston  Close, 

.    477 

Old  Bank  Close, 

.     477 

St  David  Street, 

.     484 

Waterloo  Place, 

.     485 

OldTolbooth,    . 

.    477 

St  George's  Church,  . 

.    517 

Water  Reservoir, 

.     626 

Original  Ragged  School, 

.    478 

St  George's  Free  Churcli, 

.     619 

Water  Works,   . 

.     625 

Orphan  Hospital, 

.    511 

St  Giles'  Church,       . 

.     515 

Watson's  (John)  Hospital, 

.     511 

St  Giles'  Street, 

.     481 

Watt  Institution  and  Sch 

ool  of 

P. 

St  James  Square, 

.     484 

Arts, 

.     608 

Parish  Churches,  . 

515,  539 

St  John's  Episcopal  Churc 

h,     .     520 

Waverley  Bridge, 

.     483 

Parliament  Square,    , 

477,  494 

St  John  Street, 

.    479 

Waverley  Market, 

.    483 

Philosophical  Institution, 

.     508 

St  Margaret's  Convent, 

.        .     487 

Wellington's  Monument, 

.     501 

Physicians'  Hall, 

.     506 

St  Mary's  Cathedral, 

.     520 

Wesleyan  Churches, . 

.     .521 

Picardy  Place,  . 

.     485 

St  Mary's  Church,     . 

.    619 

West  Bow, 

.     478 

Pilrig  Street, 

.     485 

St  Mary  Street, 

.     479 

West  Church,    . 

.    617 

Places  of  Amusement, 

.     499 

St  Paul's  Episcopal  Churc 

h,      ,     520 

West  Church  Poorhouse, 

.     625 

Playhouse  Close, 

.     479 

Salisbury  Crags, 

.     467 

West  Port, 

.     482 

Pleasance, 

.     479 

Scenery,     , 

.     468 

White  Horse  Close,   . 

.     479 

Police, 

.     532 

School  of  Medicine,   . 

.     500 

Whitehouse  Loan, 

.    487 

Police  Buildings, 

.     494 

Schools,  Board, 

.     512 

Windsor  Street, 

.     485 

Poorhouses, 

524,  525 

Schools,  Classical,     . 

.     60S 

Workhouses,      . 

.     524 

Population  of  Burgh, 

.     540 

Sciennes,    . 

.     480 

Working-men's  Houses, 

.     629 

Post  Ollice, 

.     498 

Scientific  and  Literary  Ii 

istitu- 

Writers'  Court, 

.     477 

Potterrow, 

.     483 

tions. 

.     507 

Presbytery  of  Edinburgh, 

.     540 

Scott  Monument, 

.     500 

Y. 

Press, 

537,  538 

Scott,  Sir  Walter,       . 

.     483,  484 

York  Place,    . 

.    485 

648 

EDINBURGHSHIRE 


EDINBURGHSHIRE 


Edinburghshire  or  Midlothian,  a  maritime  county  in 
the  eastern  part  of  the  southern  division  of  Scotland, 
is  bounded  N  by  the  Firth  of  Forth  ;  E  by  Haddington, 
Berwick,  and  Roxburgh  shires  ;  S  by  Selkirk,  Peebles, 
and  Lanark  shires ;  and  W  and  NW  liy  Linlithgow- 
shire. Its  greatest  length,  from  E  to  W,  is  36  miles  , 
its  greatest  breadth,  from  N  W  to  SE,  is  24  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  estimated  at  234,926  acres,  or  367  sc^uare  miles.  Its 
outline  is  somewhat  irregular,  Init  forms  approximately 
the  figure  of  a  half-moon,  with  the  convex  side  resting 
on  tilt;  Forth  and  the  horns  stretching  respectively  to 
the  SE  and  SW.  Its  coast-line  is  neither  rugged  nor 
bold,  but  stretches  for  about  12  miles  along  the  southern 
.shore  of  the  Firth,  for  the  most  part  in  sandy  or 
shingly  beach.  There  are  several  havens  for  fishing- 
boats,  and  large  and  important  harbours  at  Leith  and 
Granton. 

The  surface  of  this  county  is  exceedingly  diversified 
with  hill  and  dale,  but  on  the  whole  gradually  ascends 
from  the  sea  towards  the  interior  till  it  reaches  its  cul- 
minating point  (2136  feet)  in  Blackhope  Scar  among  the 
Moorfoot  Hills  in  the  SE.  The  effect  of  this  far  from 
regular  upward  incline  is  to  produce  scenery  of  a  very 
tolerably  varied  kind ;  and  though  there  is  no  part  of 
Edinburghshire  that  can  be  described  as  grand,  yet 
most  parts  are  picturesque,  and  all  are  pleasant.  There 
are  several  of  those  wooded  dens  or  '  cleuchs '  that  are 
almost  peculiar  to  southern  Scotland  and  northern 
England.  On  the  south-eastern  boundary  of  Edin- 
burghshire stretch  the  western  slopes  of  the  Lammer- 
muirs  ;  further  W,  and  occupying  the  S  of  the  county 
and  extending  into  Peeblesshire,  lie  the  Moorfoot  Hills, 
in  a  large  triangular  mass.  In  this  group,  almost 
wholly  pastoral,  the  summits  are  generally  rounded, 
often  isolated,  and  nowhere  linked  into  a  continuous 
chain.  About  3  miles  from  their  western  limit  rise  the 
Pentland  Hills,  the  chief  range  in  the  county.  These, 
springing  steeply  and  suddenly  about  4  miles  SSW  of 
Edinburgh,  stretch  12  miles  SSW  into  Peeblesshire, 
with  a  breadth  averaging  3  miles,  but  gradually  in- 
creasing towards  the  S.  The  chief  summits,  in  order 
from  the  N,  are  Castlelaw  Hill  (1595  feet),  Bell's  Hill 
(1330),  Black  Hill  (1628),  Carnethy  (1890),  Scald  Law 
(1898),  West  Kip  (1806),  East  Cairn  Hill  (1839),  and 
West  Cairn  Hill  (1844).  The  various  volcanic  eminences 
in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Edinburgh,  which 
add  so  much  to  the  charm  of  the  city,  are  specifically 
noticed  in  our  article  on  Edinburgh.  Corstorphine 
Hill,  3  miles  W  of  the  Castle  rock,  rises  to  520  feet 
above  sea-level,  and  stretches  curvingly  for  about  2 
miles.  The  Craiglockhart,  Blackford,  and  Braid  (698 
feet)  Hills  form  points  in  a  rough  semicircular  line 
round  the  S  of  the  city,  none  of  them  much  more  than 
2  miles  from  it.  The  Carberry  Hill  ridge,  on  the  NE 
border,  extends  for  nearly  6  miles  from  N  to  S,  and 
attains  its  highest  point  at  680  feet  above  sea-level. 

The  streams  of  Edinburghshire  are  all  too  small  to 
deserve  the  name  of  river ;  but  the  deficiency  in  indi- 
vidual size  is  made  up  for  by  the  number  of  small 
streams,  which  drain  the  county  very  thoroughly,  and 
for  the  most  part  fall  into  the  Forth.  The  most  easterly 
is  the  Esk,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  North  and 
South  Esks  about  6  miles  from  Musselburgh,  where  it 
debouches.  The  Water  of  Leith  drains  the  NW  side  of 
the  Pentlands,  and  enters  the  Forth  at  Leith.  The 
Almond  enters  Edinburghshire  from  Linlithgowshire, 
and,  after  forming  the  boundary  between  tliese  two 
counties  for  some  miles,  falls  into  the  Firth  at  Cramond. 
The  Tyne,  rising  near  the  middle  of  the  E  border, 
passes  oif  into  Haddingtonshire  after  a  course  of  5  miles 
northwards ;  while  the  Gala,  with  its  source  in  the 
eastern  Moorfoots,  flows  SSE  into  Roxburghshire.  Some 
of  these  streams,  notably  the  North  Esk  and  the  Water 
of  Leith,  afford  water-})Ower  for  driving  the  numerous 
paper-mills,  whose  produce  is  the  chief  manufacture  of 
the  county.  The  natural  lakes  of  Edinburghshire,  with 
the  exception  of  Duddingston  l^och  at  the  base  of 
Arthur's  Seat  at  Edinburgh,  need  not  be  separately 
named  ;  there  are  large  artificial  reservoirs  at  Threip- 


muir,  Loganlee,  Harelaw,  Torduff,  Clubbiedean,  Glads- 
muir,  Rosobery,  and  Cobbinshaw.  There  are  mineral 
springs  at  St  Bernard's  in  Edinburgh,  and  at  Benning- 
ton, Cramond,  Corstorphine,  Midcalder,  Penicuik,  and 
St  Catherine's. 

The  geology  of  Edinburghshire  is  most  interesting, 
but  our  space  only  admits  of  its  salient  features  being 
sketched.  The  county  naturally  divides  itself  into 
three  districts.  The  first,  embracing  the  Moorfoot  and 
Lammermuir  Hills  in  the  SE,  is  a  portion  of  the  '  great 
Lower  Silurian  tableland  of  the  South  of  Scotland,'  and 
its  rocks  consist  of  greywacke,  grit,  and  shale  folded 
into  a  constant  succession  of  NE  and  SW  waves.  The 
second  is  that  of  the  Pentland  and  Braid  Hills,  where 
the  basement  rocks  are  of  Upper  Silurian  ago,  consisting 
of  greywackcs,  shales,  and  limestones,  some  of  them 
being  highly  fossiliferous.  These  are  conformably  over- 
laid by  the  lowest  members  of  the  Lower  Old  Red  Sand- 
stone, while  there  rests  on  the  upturned  and  denuded 
edges  of  both  an  unconformable  scries  of  porphyrites, 
tuffs,  sandstones,  and  conglomerates,  also  of  Lower  Old 
Red  age,  pointing  to  upheaval,  long  continued  denuda- 
tion, and  subsequent  volcanic  activity  during  that 
period.  The  third  district  takes  in  the  remainder  of 
the  county,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  later  in- 
trusions of  trap,  is  floored  with  carboniferous  rocks. 
The  Pentland  and  Braid  Hills  wedge  this  into  two 
basins.  In  the  western  one  the  Calciferous  sandstones 
alone  occur.  These  yield  the  rich  oil  shales  of  Mid- 
calder, the  limestone  of  Raw  Camps,  and  the  building 
stones  of  Granton,  Craigleith,  Hailes,  and  Redhall,  and 
it  is  on  members  of  this  series  that  the  capital  stands. 
In  the  eastern  basin,  however,  all  the  several  members 
of  this  important  system  as  developed  in  Scotland  are 
represented,  viz., — in  ascending  order  the  Calciferotis 
Satidstone  Series,  including  the  Burdiehouse  Limestone, 
noted  for  its  excellence,  and  the  Straiten  oil  shales  ;  the 
Carboniferous  Limestone  Series,  locally  known  as  the 
'Edge  coals,'  containing  numerous  coal  and  ironstone 
seams,  as  well  as  several  workable  limestone,  oil  shales, 
and  building  stones,  forming  together  the  most  impor- 
tant portion  of  the  Midlothian  coalfield  ;  the  barren 
Millstone  Grit  and  the  true  Goal  Measures  of  Dalkeith, 
Millerhill,  and  Dalhousie.  This  last  series  contains 
several  workable  seams  of  coal  and  ironstone,  and  the 
field  gets  the  local  name  of  the  '  Flat  Coals,'  from  the 
low  angles  at  which  the  beds  lie,  in  contradistinction  to 
those  of  the  Carboniferous  Limestone  Series.  The  vol- 
canic rocks  of  Carboniferous  age,  the  phenomena  of  gla- 
ciation,  and  the  ancient  raised  beaches  are  treated  of  in 
the  geological  section  of  the  article  on  Edinburgh  city. 
Coal  seems  to  have  been  worked  in  Lasswadc  parish 
so  early  as  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century  ;  and 
since  then  the  increased  facilities  of  working  and  of 
transport  have  fostered  the  industry  to  a  high  degree. 
Parrot  coal  of  good  quality  occurs  in  the  rising-ground 
S  of  Newbattle,  and  has  been  much  used  for  the  manu- 
facture of  coal-gas.  In  1878  there  were  19  collieries 
at  work,  employing  over  2000  hands  ;  and  in  that  year 
725,122  tons  were  raised  in  the  county.  There  are, 
besides,  ironstone  mines  at  Roslin,  Gilmerton,  and 
Lasswade.  In  1878  also  313,157  tons  of  oil  shale  and 
44,659  tons  of  fire-clay  were  raised.  Building  stone  is 
abundant,  and  paving  stones  are  also  found.  Lead  ore 
has  been  discovered  at  the  head  of  the  Nortli  Esk,  and 
a  copper  mine  at  Currie  was  projected  in  1083. 

Edinburghshire  includes  some  of  the  finest  agricultural 
land  in  the  country,  and  the  methods  of  farming,  tlio 
implements  used,  and  the  science  of  the  farmers  are 
inferior  to  none.  The  fertile  districts  in  the  N  and  \V 
sections  of  the  shire  are  generally  arable,  and  in  a  liigh 
state  of  cultivation  ;  the  S  and  SE  sections,  more  par- 
ticularly the  latter,  are,  to  a  largo  extent,  pastoral. 
Only  about  onc-eightli  of  the  entire  area  is  unprofitable. 
In  Juno  1881,  134,999  acres  were  under  crops,  bare  fallow, 
or  grass.  The  soils  of  the  low  arable  lands  are  much 
diversified.  Clay,  sand,  loam,  and  gravel  are,  in  somo 
cases,  all  to  bo  seen  on  the  same  farm— even  in  tlio  same 
field.     It  is  dilUcult  to  detcnuiuo  which  predominates. 

549 


EDINBURGHSHIRE 

Careful  farming  has  done  much  to  improve  the  poor 
and  mossy  soil  on  the  high-lying  tracts  ;  but  the  range 
of  fertility  between  the  best  and  the  worst  arable  lands 
is  very  great.  Agricultural  improvements  on  fairly 
intelligent  principles,  or  with  fairly  visible  results, 
began  so  late  as  about  1725  ;  but  since  then,  combined 
etTorts  by  societies,  and  single  efforts  by  proprietors, 
have  united  to  advance  the  agricultural  interests  of  the 
county.  The  use  of  sewage  as  manure  was  adopted 
near  Edinburgh  tolerably  early  ;  and  the  Craigentinny 
meadows,  separately  noticed,  are  a  signal  instance  of  its 
fertilising  power.  Areas  at  Lochend,  at  Dairy,  and  at 
the  Grange,  all  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Edinburgh,  are 
hardly  less  productive  ;  and  the  total  aggregate  value  of 
the  land  thus  treated  with  the  Edinburgh  sewage  is 
fully  £6000  per  annum.  The  country  round  Edin- 
burgh is  largely  occupied  by  market  gardens,  whose 
produce  is  chiefly  potatoes,  cabbages,  turnips,  and 
strawberries ;  in  1877  there  were  865  acres  under  this 
form  of  cultivation — an  area  greater  than  in  any  other 
Scottish  county.  To  orchards  there  were  94  acres,  and 
to  coppices  and  plantations  10,320  acres,  given  up  in 
Edinburghshire.  Perthshire  and  Lanarkshire  alone 
excel  the  metropolitan  county  in  extent  of  orchard- 
ground.  The  principal  crops  of  the  county,  with  their 
average,  are  as  follow  : — 


Crops. 

1856. 

1866. 

1875.    j  1876. 

1877. 

1880. 

Wheat,    .    . 
Barley,    .     . 
Oats,  .    .    . 
Sown  Grass, 
Potatoes,     . 
Turnips, .     . 

11,623 
10,123 
23,181 

6,668 
14,517 

6,241 
4,205 
22,866 
26,907 
6,358 
13,629 

5,240 
12,212 
20,809 
33,139 

6,476 
13,022 

4,456 
11,982 
21,311 
31.869 

6,930 
13,343 

4,966 
11,811 
22,221 
31,116 

7,063 
12,987 

4,866 
11,095 
22,323 
29,390 

7,590 
11,889 

Totals,    . 

66,017 

80,206 

90,898  j  89,891 

90,164  1  87,053 

In  June  1881,  134,999  acres  were  divided  as  follow: — 
com  crops,  38,273  acres ;  green  crops,  21,534  acres  ; 
sown  grasses,  31,470  acres;  permanent  pasture,  43,532 
acres. 

The  tendency  in  Midlothian,  in  view  of  the  low  price 
of  gi'ain  and  the  high  price  of  cattle,  is  to  turn  attention 
more  and  more  from  raising  crops  to  raising  cattle.  But  as 
yet  there  is  but  little  cattle-breeding  in  Edinburghshire. 
In  1881  the  county  contained  18,'250  cattle  ;  154,966 
sheep  ;  4160  horses  used  for  agricultural  purposes  ;  and 
5390  pigs.  In  the  vicinity  of  Edinburgh  very  large 
dairies,  with  from  30  to  70  cows,  are  maintained. 

The  Slidlotliian  farms  vary  much  in  size.  In  1876 
there  were  477  farms  of  50  acres  and  under  ;  116  of  be- 
tween 50  and  100  acres  ;  294  of  between  100  and  300 ;  75 
of  between  300  and  500 ;  and  50  of  over  500  acres — mak- 
ing 1012  in  all.  The  rent  per  acre  varies  fully  as  much, 
but  increases  in  direct  ratio  to  the  proximity  of  the  farm 
to  Edinburgh.  The  average  rent  of  arable  land  in  Mid- 
lothian may  be  set  down  at  from  £2  to  £3  per  acre  ;  of 
hill  pasture  at  from  10s.  to  15s.  per  acre.  The  fanns 
are  generally  held  on  19  years'  lease. 

Edinburghshire  enjoys  a  climate  that  is  on  the  whole 
equable,  and  not  severe.  In  the  N,  it  is  mild  and  dry  ; 
among  the  hills,  colder  and  moister.  Generally  speak- 
ing, the  fruits  of  the  ground  ripen  early,  especially 
garden-stuff  and  strawberries.  The  mean  annual  tem- 
])erature  has  been  set  down  at  47  "1°,  which  is  the  exact 
figure  for  the  capital.  Observations  at  13  stations  give 
32  "66  inches  as  the  average  annual  rainfall  in  the  county. 
The  range  is  between  23  "75  inches  at  Corstorphine  (the 
driest  station  in  Scotland)  and  45 '52  at  Colzium. 

Notwithstanding  many  and  great  natural  advantages, 
the  metropolitan  county  has  no  very  important  manu- 
factures. When  those  carried  on  in  Edinburgh  and 
Leith  and  the  immediate  environments  are  subtracted, 
there  are  but  few  left  to  represent  the  industrial  activity 
of  the  county  proper.  The  pre-eminent  manufacture  is 
tliat  of  paper,  supported  in  great  measure  by  the  im- 
portant publi-shing  and  printing  businesses  of  the  capital. 
The  turnout  of  paper  in  1878  was  24,000  tons  of  all 
kinds.  Gunpowder  is  manufactured  at  Koslin  ;  bricks 
550 


EDINBURGHSHIRE 

and  tiles  at  Portobello,  IMillerliill,  Newbattle,  Rosewell, 
and  Bonnyrigg ;  candles  at  Dalkeith  and  Loanhead ; 
leather  at  Dalkeith  ;  and  there  are  iron-works  at  Dal- 
keith, Westfield,  Loanhead,  Penicuik,  and  Millerhill. 
Shale-mining  with  paraffin-oil  working  (chiefly  near  Mid- 
calder),  and  coal-mining,  employ  many  hands  ;  fishing 
is  the  main  occupation  of  the  inhabitants  of  Newhaven, 
Fisherrow,  Musselburgh,  and  other  coast  villages  ;  while 
Leith  and  Granton  have  a  very  largo  shipping  industry. 
The  assessed  rental  for  1880-81  of  paper-mills  in  the 
county  was  £12,700  (increase  since  1870-71,  £3295) ;  of 
other  mills,  £3917  (decrease,  £335) ;  of  '  manufactories,' 
£18,696  (increase,  £6148).  These  figures  exclude  the 
two  city  parishes. 

The  roads  in  Edinburghshire  are  numerous  and  good. 
No  fewer  than  nine  chief  roads  diverge  from  the  city 
through  the  county,  and  these  are  connected  with  each 
other  by  a  network  of  cross-roads.  The  roads  are  main- 
tained by  assessment  levied  on  the  city  and  county. 
The  Union  Canal  extends  from  Edinburgh  through  the 
western  part  of  tlie  county,  and  joins  the  Forth  and 
Clyde  Canal  at  Falkirk.  Though  no  longer  used  for 
passenger  traffic,  it  still  affords  means  of  transit  for  coal 
and  other  minerals.  The  North  British  and  Caledonian 
Railway  Companies'  lines  not  only  connect  Edinburgh 
with  ail  parts  of  the  kingdom,  but  also  provide  very 
good  local  communication  within  the  county.  A  ferry 
from  Granton  to  Ijurntisland  conveys  much  of  the 
traffic  to  the  N  of  Scotland ;  but  this  route  will  pro- 
bably be  largely  superseded  when  the  bridge  over  the 
Forth  at  QueensfeiTy  has  been  completed.  The  assess- 
ment on  railways  \^nthin  the  county  for  1880-81  was 
£71,996  (increase  since  1870-71,  £6282) ;  on  private 
railways,  £600  (increase,  £600). 

Edinburgh  is  the  only  royal  burgh  in  the  county ; 
Leith,  Portobello,  and  Slusselburgh  are  municipal  and 
parliamentary  burghs  ;  Bonnyrigg,  Dalkeith,  and  Peni- 
cuik are  police  burghs  ;  Canongate  and  Portsburgh  were 
formerly  burghs  of  regalitj^,  but  have  been  incorporated 
with  Edinburgh.  Among  the  chief  villages  in  Edin- 
burgh are  (besides  the  above) — Balerno,  Colinton,  Cor- 
storphine, Cramond,  Duddingston,  Eskbank,  Fala,  Gil- 
merton,  Gorebridge,  Granton,  Kirkuewton,  Lasswade, 
Loanhead,  Midcalder,  Newbattle,  Newhaven,  Ratho, 
Roslin,  Slateford,  and  Stow.  According  to  the  Miscel- 
laneous Statistics  of  tlic  United  Kingdom  (1879),  there 
were  16,945  landowners  in  the  county,  with  a  total 
holding  of  231,742  acres,  and  a  total  gross  estimated 
rental  of  £2,129,038.  Of  these  3  held  between  10,000 
and  20,000  acres,  47  between  1000  and  10,000  acres,  and 
15,909  less  than  1  acre.  The  assessed  rental  in  1880-81 
of  lands  in  the  county  (including  the  two  city  parishes) 
was  £288,549  (increase  since  1870-71,  £15,039);  of 
houses,  shops,  etc.,  £193,911  (increase,  £79,908).  There 
are  many  fine  mansion-houses  and  gentlemen's  seats  in 
the  county,  of  which  the  chief  are  Dalkeith  Palace, 
Duddingston  House,  Newbattle  Abbey,  Dalhousie  Castle, 
Pinkie  House,  Dreghorn  Castle,  Hatton  House,  Bonally 
Tower,  and  Craigcrook. 

The  county  is  governed  by  a  lord-lieutenant,  a  vice- 
lieutenant,  10  deputy-lieutenants,  a  sheritf,  and  2 
sheriff-substitutes.  Besides  these  ex-officio  justices  of 
the  peace,  there  are  210  gentlemen  in  the  commission 
of  the  peace,  of  whom  137  have  qualified.  The  police 
force,  exclusive  of  that  for  the  burghs  of  Edinburgh  and 
Leith,  amounted,  in  1880,  to  62  men  under  a  chief- 
constable.  Besides  the  head-office  in  Edinburgh,  there 
are  38  police-stations  in  the  county.  The  number  of 
persons  tried  at  the  instance  of  the  police  in  1880  was 
2429  ;  convicted,  2326  ;  committed  for  trial,  46  ;  not 
dealt  with,  421.  The  prison  of  Edinburgh  serves  as  the 
county  jail.  In  1881-82  the  as.sessments  were  as  Ibllow  : 
general  county  assessments,  lid.  ;  police,  li^d.  ;  regis- 
tration of  voters,  ~}jd.  ;  pauper  lunatics,  Ifd.  per  £1. 
The  valued  rent  in"  the  county  for  1674  was  £15,921  ; 
the  new  valuation  for  1881-82  gives  it  at  £592,923 
(exclusive  of  railways  and  water-works,  wliich,  with  the 
exception  of  portions  within  burghs,  were  valued  at 
£116,392).     The  city  of  Ediubui'gh  returns  2  members 


EDINBUBGHSHIBE 

to  parliament ;  the  Leith  Burghs  (Leith,  Portobello, 
and  Musselburgh),  1  ;  and  the  rest  of  the  county,  1. 
The  parliamentary  constituency  of  the  county  proper  in 
1881-82  was  4018.  Pop.  (1801)  122,597,  (1811)  148,607, 
(1821)  191,514,  (1831)  219,345,  (1841)  225,454,  (1851) 
259,435,  (1861)  273,997,  (1871)  328,379,  (1881)388,977, 
of  whom  183,669  were  males  and  205,308  females. 
Houses  (1881)  72,677  inhabited,  5493  uninhabited, 
1006  building. 

The  county  contains  32  quoad  civilia  parishes,  and 
parts  of  four  others.  Ecclesiastically  it  is  di\-ided  into 
59  quoad  sacra  parishes,  and  parts  of  4  others  ;  and 
it  includes  also  5  chapelries.  These  are  di\-ided  among 
the  presbyteries  of  Edinburgh,  Haddington,  Linlithgow, 
and  Earlston  ;  and  all,  with  the  exception  of  a  part  of  a 
parish  in  Earlston  presbytery,  are  included  in  the  synod 
of  Lothian  and  Tweeddale.  In  1876  the  Church  of 
Scotland  had  67  churches  in  the  county ;  the  Free 
Church  of  Scotland,  60;  the, United  Presbyterians,  47; 
Episcopalians,  21  ;  Congregationalists,  8  ;  Roman  Catho- 
lics, 7  ;  Baptists,  6  ;  Evangelical  Union,  5  ;  Methodists, 
3 ;  Reformed  Presbyterians,  1 ;  United  Original  Seceders, 
1 ;  and  other  denominations,  10.  In  the  year  ending 
Sept.  1880  the  county  had  198  schools  (121  public), 
which,  with  accommodation  for  43,761  pupils,  had 
43,990  on  the  rolls,  and  an  average  attendance  of 
34,403.  The ,  certificated  teachers  numbered  378, 
assistant- teachers  37,  and  pupil-teachers  416. 

The  registration  count}'  gives  off  part  of  Kirkliston 
parish  to  Linlithgow,  but  takes  in  parts  from  Linlithgow, 
Selkirk,  and  Haddington  shires,  and  had  388,649  in- 
habitants in  1881.  All  the  parishes  are  assessed  for  the 
poor.  The  number  of  registered  poor  in  the  j'ear  ending 
14  May  1881  was  8129  ;  and  of  casual  poor,  4788.  The 
receipts  for  the  poor  in  the  same  year  were  £96,607,  and 
the  expenditure  £88,861.  In  1881  pauper  lunatics  num- 
bered 808,  their  cost  being  £20,158.  The  percentage  of 
illegitimate  births  was  8'1  in  1871,  7 '2  in  1877,  7 '6  in 
1879,  and  7-3  in  1881. 

The  history  of  Edinburghshire  cannot  well  be  separ- 
ated from  the  history  of  the  larger  district  of  the 
LoTHiANS.  The  territory  now  known  as  Midlothian 
was  included  in  the  district  usually  ascribed  to  the 
Caledonian  Otaleni  or  Otadeni  and  Gadeni.  In  Roman 
times  the  tribe  of  Damnonii  seems  to  have  dwelt  here  ; 
and  the  district  was  brought  within  the  northern  limit 
of  the  Roman  province  in  Britain  by  Agricola  in  81  a.d. 
Thence  onwards  the  Lothians  were  the  scene  of  many 
struggles  and  wars  for  their  possession  ;  and  about  the 
beginning  of  the  7th  century,  when  historians  recognise 
the  four  kingdoms  of  Dalriada,  Strathclyde,  Bemicia, 
and  the  kingdom  of  the  Picts,  under  tolerably  definite 
limits,  Edinburghshire  was  the  centre  of  what  the  latest 
historian  of  early  Scotland  calls  the  '  debateable  lands ' 
— a  district  in  Avhich  the  boundaries  of  the  four  king- 
doms approached  each  other,  and  which  was  sometimes 
annexed  to  one  of  these  kingdoms,  sometimes  to  another. 
Lodoneia  or  the  Lothians  was  thus  peopled  by  a  mixed 
race  of  Scots,  Angles,  and  Picts  ;  but  seems  most  often 
to  have  been  joined  to  Bernicia,  with  which  it  was 
absorbed  into  the  great  northern  earldom  of  Northum- 
bria.  But  the  kings  of  Scotia  or  Alban,  who,  about  the 
9th  century,  had  established  their  rule  from  the  Spey 
to  the  Forth,  succeeded,  after  many  efforts,  in  bringing 
this  rich  district  also  imder  their  sceptre.  The  final 
scene  was  at  the  battle  of  Carham  in  1018,  in  the  reign 
of  Malcolm  II.  From  that  date  an  integral  part  of 
political  Scotland,  practically  without  intermission,  the 
county  was  the  scene  of  many  battles  and  skirmishes 
between  the  English  and  the  "Scotch.  In  1303  a  small 
native  force  defeated  near  Roslin  a  much  larger  army  of 
Southrons  ;  in  1334,  the  Boroughmuir,  now  a  southern 
suburb  of  Edinburgh,  witnessed  another  victory  of  the 
Scots  .under  Sir  Alex.  Ramsay  over  the  English  under 
Count  Guy.  In  1385  the  county  was  devastated  by 
Richard  II.  of  England ;  a  century  and  a  half  later  it 
sulfered  the  resentment  of  Henry  VIII.  ;  and  the  fields 
of  Pinkie  (1547),  Carberry  Hill  (1567),  and  Rullion 
Green  (1666),  are  all  included  within  its  limits. 


EDINBURGHSHIRE 

Central  Lothian  very  probably  was  placed  under  the 
administration  of  a  sherilf,  or  under  some  similar  ad- 
ministration, as  early  as  the  epoch  of  the  introduction 
of  the  Scoto-Saxon  laws.  A  sherifiilom  over  it  can  bo 
traced  in  record  from  the  reign  of  Malcolm  IV.  dowc  to 
the  restoration  of  David  II.  ;  but  appears  to  have  ex- 
tended  during  that  period  over  all  tlie  Lotliians.  The 
sheriffdom  underwent  successive  limitations,  at  a  num- 
ber of  periods,  till  it  coincided  with  the  present  extent 
of  the  county ;  it  also,  for  many  ages,  was  abridged  in 
its  authority  by  various  jurisdictions  witliin  its  bounds ; 
and  it  likewise,  for  a  considerable  time,  was  hampered 
in  its  administration  by  distribution  into  wards,  each 
superintended  by  a  Serjeant.  The  last  sheriff  under  the 
old  regime  was  the  Earl  of  Lauderdale,  who  succeeded 
his  father  as  sheriff  in  1744  ;  and  the  first  under  the 
present  improved  system  was  Charles  Maitland,  who 
received  his  appointment  in  1748. — A  constable  was 
attached,  from  an  early  period,  to  Eilinburgh  Castle ; 
and  appears  to  have,  as  early  as  1278,  exercised  civil 
jurisdiction.  The  provost  of  Edinburgh,  from  the  year 
1472,  had  the  power  of  sheriff,  coroner,  and  admiral, 
^vithul  Edinburgh  royalty  and  its  dependency  of  Leith. 
The  abbot  of  Holyrood  acquired  from  Robert  HI.  a  riglit 
of  regality  over  all  the  lands  of  the  abbey,  including  the 
barony  of  Broughton  ;  and,  at  the  Reformation,  he  was 
succeeded  in  his  jurisdiction  by  the  trustees  of  Heriot's 
Hospital.  The  monks  of  Dimfermline  obtained  from 
David  I.  a  baronial  jurisdiction  over  Inveresk  manor, 
including  the  town  of  Musselburgh  ;  and,  at  the  Refor- 
mation, were  succeeded  in  their  jurisdiction  by  Sir  John 
Maitland,  who  sold  it  in  1709  to  the  Duchess  of  Buc- 
cleuch.  The  barony  of  Ratho,  at  Robert  II. 's  accession 
to  the  crown,  belonged  to  the  royal  Stewarts  ;  was  then, 
with  their  other  estates,  erected  into  a  royal  jurisdiction ; 
went,  in  that  capacity,  to  Prince  James,  the  son  of 
Robert  III.  ;  and,  at  the  bisection  of  Lanarkshire  into 
the  coimties  of  Lanarkshire  and  Renfrewshire,  was  dis- 
joined from  Edinburghshire  and  annexed  to  Renfrew- 
shire. A  right  of  regality  over  the  lands  of  Dalkeith 
was  obtained  by  the  Douglases,  and  passed  to  the 
family  of  Buccleuch.  The  estates  in  Edinburghshire 
belonging  to  the  see  of  St  Andrews  were  erected  into  a 
regality,  and  placed  imder  the  control  of  a  bailie  ap- 
pointed by  the  archbishop.  The  lands  of  Duddingston, 
of  Prestoahall,  of  Carrington,  and  of  Carberry  also  were 
regalities ;  and  the  first  was  administered  by  a  bailie, 
the  second  by  the  Duke  of  Gordon,  the  third  by  Lord 
Dalmeny,  the  fourth  by  Sir  Robert  Dickson.  These 
several  jurisdictions  comprised  a  large  proportion  of  the 
county's  territory,  and  a  stiU  longer  one  of  the  county's 
population  ;  and  they  must,  in  the  aggregate,  have 
greatly  embarrassed  the  paramount  or  comprehensive 
civil  administration ;  but  all  were  abolished  in  1747. 
A  justiciary  of  Lothian  also  was  appointed  in  the  time 
of  Malcolm  IV. ,  exercised  a  power  superior  to  that  of 
the  sherilf,  and  had  successors  wielding  that  superior 
power,  or  entitled  to  wield  it,  till  the  time  when  the 
baronial  jurisdictions  became  extinct.  The  power  of 
the  Archbishop  of  St  Andrews  also,  being  both  baronial 
over  his  own  estates  and  ecclesiastical  over  the  entire 
county,  was  often,  in  the  Romish  times,  practically  para- 
mount to  that  of  the  sheriff;  and  even  after  the  Refonna- 
tion,  when  the  archiepiscopal  prerogatives  were  wholly 
or  mainly  abolished,  it  continued  for  a  time  to  throw 
impediments  in  the  way  of  the  sheriff's  movements. 

There  are  Caledonian  stone  circles  in  Kirkncwton 
parish  and  at  Heriot-town-hill ;  and  there  are  cainis 
and  tumuli  at  many  places  in  the  county.  Pictisli  forts 
may  probably  have  preceded  the  Castles  of  Edinburgli 
and  Roslin  ;  and  it  is  very  possible  that  the  caves  at 
Hawthornden  House  were  eitlier  formed  or  enlarged  by 
the  Picts  also.  Traces  of  Roman  occui)ation  are  still  to 
be  discerned  ;  and  Roman  coins,  weapons,  etc.,  liavo 
been  found  in  various  parts.  There  are  several  old 
castles,  some  forming  most  picturesi|Ue  ruins.  In  many 
cases  comparatively  modem  erections  have  8U|>erseded 
the  older  buildings.  Among  the  more  interesting  old 
castles  are  those  at  Roslin,  Catcune,  Borthwick,  Crichton, 

551 


EDINCHIP  HOUSE 

and  Craigmillar.  Extensive  monastic  establishments 
have  left  their  ruins  at  Hol5'rood,  Newbattle,  and 
Temple — the  last,  as  its  name  suggests,  having  been  an 
important  house  of  the  Knights  Templars.  There  are 
vestiges  of  an  ancient  hospital  on  Soutra  Hill. 

There  is  no  good  history  of  Edinburghshire,  but 
reference  may  be  made  to  The  County  of  Edinburgh ; 
its  Geology,  Agriculture,  and  Meteorology,  by  Mr 
Ralph  Richardson  (1878),  and  The  Geology  of  Edinburgh 
and  its  Neighbourhood,  by  Prof.  Geikie  (1879).  Both 
are  merely  pamphlets  ;  the  latter  refers  to  other  and 
larger  authorities.  Comp.  also  Mr  Farrall  '  On  the 
Agriculture  of  Edinburghshire,'  in  Trans.  Uighl.  and 
Ag.  Sac.  (1877). 

Edinchip  House.    See  Balquhidder. 

Edingight,  a  mansion  in  Grange  parish,  Banffshire, 
at  the  W  skirt  of  Knock  Hill  (1409  feet),  7  mUes  NE  of 
Keith,  and  4  N  by  E  of  Grange  station.  It  is  the  scat 
of  Sir  Johnlnnes  ofBALVENiE,  twelfth  Bart,  since  1628 
(b.  1840  ;  sue.  1878),  whose  estate  is  valued  at  £1810, 
5s.  6d.  per  annum. 

Edinglassie,  an  estate,  with  an  old  mansion,  in 
Strathdon  parish,  Aberdeenshire.  It  is  included  in  the 
Castle-Newe  property. 

Edington,  a  hamlet  and  an  ancient  fortalice  in  Chirn- 
side  parish,  Berwickshire,  2^  miles  E  of  Chirnside  vil- 
lage.   Only  the  S  side  of  the  fortalice  continues  standing. 

Edinkillie,  a  hamlet  and  a  parish  in  the  W  of  Elgin- 
shire. The  hamlet  is  on  the  small  river  Divie,  close  to 
the  point  where  the  Highland  railway,  which  intersects 
the  parish  for  a  distance  of  10  miles,  crosses  the  stream 
on  a  lofty  seven-arched  viaduct.  It  is  about  a  mile  from 
Duniphail  station,  which  lies  by  rail  8^  miles  S  by  W  of 
Forres,  20|  SW  of  Elgin,  33  ESE  of  Inverness,  and  157^ 
N  by  W  of  Edinburgh.  There  is  a  post  office  under  Forres. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  by  Dyke  and  Moy,  NE  by 
Ratford,  E  by  Dallas,  SE  by  Knockando,  S  by  Cromdale, 
and  W  by  Ardclach  in  Nairnshire.  Its  greatest  length, 
from  N  to  S,  from  a  point  on  the  Findhorn  near  Mains 
of  Dalvey  to  Lochindorb,  is  13J  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from 
E  to  W,  varies  considerably,  attaining  7  miles  at  the 
widest  part ;  and  its  area  is  32,904^  acres,  of  which  437f 
are  water.  The  S  and  SE  parts  are  mostly  moorland 
and  hill  pasture,  the  N  and  NW  woodland  and  arable. 
Between  3000  and  4000  acres  are  in  tillage,  between 
4000  and  5000  are  imder  wood,  and  the  remainder  is 
rough  hill  pasture  or  heath.  The  soil  of  the  arable 
districts  consists  of  a  brown  or  black  loam  overlying 
clay,  sand,  or  gravel,  and  in  some  places  the  loam  becomes 
very  light  and  sandy.  In  the  upper  part  the  moss  lies 
generally  on  clay  or  white  sand.  The  surface  is  very 
irregular.  At  the  extreme  N  end  of  the  parish  the 
height  of  the  ground  above  sea-level  is  a  little  over  100 
feet,  and  from  that  point  it  rises  in  rugged  undulations 
till  in  the  S  and  E  it  reaches  an  average  height  of  from 
900  to  1000  feet,  and  rises  in  some  places  still  higher, 
the  principal  elevations  being  Romach  Hill  (1012  feet), 
Hill  of  Tomechole  (1129),  Sliabh  Bainneach  (1453), 
and  Knock  of  Braemoray,  the  highest  point  (1493).  The 
last  summit  commands  a  very  extensive  view.  The 
upper  part  of  the  parish  to  the  S  is  drained  by  the 
streams  Divie  and  Dorbock  and  the  smaller  streams 
that  flow  into  them.  The  Divie  rises  in  Cromdale  to 
the  S  of  Edinkillie,  and  flows  northward  to  about  the 
middle  of  the  parish,  where,  half  a  mile  below  the 
church,  it  is  joined  by  the  Dorbock,  which  forms  the 
outlet  for  the  waters  of  Lochindorb.  From  the  point  of 
junction  the  united  streams,  still  retaining  the  name  of 
the  Divie,  continue  in  a  northern  course  for  2J  miles  by 
Duniphail  and  Relugas,  and  enter  the  Findhorn  a  short 
distance  N  of  Relugas.  The  land  immediately  to  the  S 
of  the  point  where  the  streams  unite  is  a  small  detached 
l)ortion  of  Nairnshire,  and  belongs  to  the  parish  of 
Ardclach.  Tlie  scenery  along  the  greater  part  of  the 
courses  of  both  streams  is  very  picturesque.  The  river 
Findhorn  flows  through  the  j)arish  for  7  miles  of  its 
course.  Entering  near  the  middle  of  the  western  side, 
it  first  forms  for  a  mile  the  western  boundary  of  Edin- 
killie, then  passes  across  in  a  northerlv  direction,  and 
552 


EDNAM 

forms  thereafter  the  eastern  boundary  for  3  miles  at  the 

N  end  of  the  iiarish.  The  course  of  the  river  is  marked 
by  fine  rock  and  wood  scenery,  the  vales  of  Logic,  Sluie, 
and  St  John  being  particularly  pretty.  The  greater 
portion  of  the  district  AV  of  the  Findhorn  is  covered 
with  part  of  the  gi-eat  forest  of  Darxaway.  The  man- 
sions— Duniphail,  Relugas,  and  Logic — are  separately 
noticed,  as  also  are  the  chief  antiquities  of  the  parish — 
Duniphail  Castle  and  Relugas  Doune.  The  principal 
landowner  is  the  Earl  of  Moray.  Three  other  proprietors 
hold  each  an  annual  value  of  £500  or  upwards,  and 
1  holds  between  £500  and  £100.  The  parish  is  in 
the  presbytery  of  Forres  and  synod  of  Moray ;  the 
minister's  income  is  £222.  The  parish  church  was 
erected  in  1741,  and  repaired  in  1813 ;  it  contains  500 
sittings.  There  is  a  Free  church.  The  schools  of 
Duniphail,  Half  Davoch,  Conicavel,  Logie,  and  Relugas, 
with  respective  accommodation  for  100,  50,  56,  116,  and 
51  children,  had  (1880)  an  average  attendance  of  44., 
22,  22,  107,  and  43,  and  grants  of  £44,  7s.,  £33,  4s., 
£23,  6s.,  £106,  19s.  6d.,  and  £31,  Is.  6d.  Valuation 
(1881)  £5979,  17s.  Pop.  (1801)  1223,  (1831)  1300, 
(1861)  1303,  (1871)  1286,  (1881)  1175.— Ord.  Sur.,  shs. 
84,  85,  1876-77. 

Edinshall.  See  Cockburnlaw  and  the  Antiquary 
for  March  1882. 
Edleston.  See  Eddleston. 
Edmonston  Castle.  See  Biggak. 
Edmondstone  House,  a  mansion,  with  finely  wooded 
grounds,  in  Newton  parish,  Edinburghshire,  3i  miles 
SE  of  Edinburgh.  The  estate  belonged,  from  1248  and 
earlier,  to  the  family  of  Edmonstone,  who  are  commonly 
said  to  have  come  to  Scotland  in  1067  with  St  Margaret, 
the  queen  of  Malcolm  Ceannmor,  but  who  probably  were 
a  branch  of  the  powerful  race  of  Seton.  (See  DuN- 
treath.  )  From  them  it  passed,  about  the  beginning  of 
the  17th  century,  to  the  Raits  ;  and  from  them,  by  mar- 
riage, in  1671,  to  John  Wauchope  (1633-1709),  a  cadet 
of  the  Niddry  Wauchopes,  who,  in  1672,  on  becoming  a 
lord  of  session,  assumed  the  title  of  Lord  Edmonstone. 
Its  present  holder,  Sir  John  Don-Waucliope  of  Newton. 
eighth  Bart,  since  1667  (b.  1816  ;  sue.  1862),  owms  1350 
acres  in  the  shire,  valued  at  £6310  per  annum,  including 
£267  for  minerals.  A  hamlet  of  Edmonstone,  with  a 
public  school,  stands  a  little  to  the  E. 

Ednam  (12th  century  Ednalmm,  'village  on  the 
Eden '),  a  village  and  a  parish  of  N  Roxburghshire. 
The  village  stands,  190  feet  above  sea-level,  on  the  left 
bank  of  Eden  Water,  2|  miles  NNE  of  its  station  and 
post-town,  Kelso.  A  pretty  little  place,  of  hoar 
antiquity,  burned  by  the  English  in  1558,  it  now  is  the 
seat  of  a  largish  brewery,  and  retains,  as  outhouse  of  a 
farmsteading,  the  former  manse  (and  later  village 
school)  in  which  James  Thomson  was  born,  11  Sept. 
1700.  His  father,  nine  or  ten  weeks  afterwards,  was 
transferred  to  the  ministry  of  Southdean  ;  but  a  minia- 
ture of  the  poet,  presented  to  the  bygone  Ednam  Club 
by  the  eleventh  Earl  of  Buchan,  is  preserved  in  the 
present  manse  ;  and  in  1820  an  obelisk,  52  feet  high, 
was  erected  to  his  memory  on  a  rising-ground  1  mile  to 
the  S  of  the  village.  James  Cook,  the  father  of  the 
circumnavigator,  has  also  been  claimed  for  a  native. 

The  parish  is  bounded  N  and  NE  by  Eccles  in 
Berwickshire,  SE  by  Sprouston,  S  and  SW  by  Kelso,  W 
by  Nenthorn  in  Berwickshire,  and  NW  by  Stichill. 
Its  utmost  length,  from  E  by  N  to  W  by  S,  is  3|  miles  ; 
its  utmost  breadth,  from  N  to  S,  is  3^  miles  ;  and  its 
area  is  3919if  acres,  of  which  70^  are  water.  The  Tweed 
sweeps  3  miles  north-eastward  along  all  the  Sprouston 
border  ;  and  Eden  Water  winds  4^  miles  eastward  to  it, 
along  the  boundary  with  Nenthorn  and  through  the 
interior.  In  the  furthest  E  the  surface  sinks  along  the 
Tweed  to  95  feet  above  sea-level,  thence  rising  with 
gentle  undulation  to  236  feet  near  Ferneyhill,  282  near 
Cliftonhill,  278  near  Kaimflat,  and  265  near  Harper- 
town.  Sandstone  is  the  prevailing  rock,  and  the  soils 
are  of  four  kinds,  in  pretty  eijual  proportions — loam, 
incumbent  on  gravel ;  clay  and  light  gravel,  both  on 
a  porous   bottom  ;   and   a   light  humus  on  a  moorish 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


t^n 


7  '^^' 


Form  L9-10m-6,'52(A1855)444 


^D     000  160  988     2 


*DA 
869 
G89o 
V.  2 


m^ 


m