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S 


GUIDE  TO  SPAIN 


AND    PORTUGAL 


AGENTS  ABROAD  FEOM  WHOM  THIS  GUIDE  CAN 

BE  OBTAINED. 


Barcelona 
Gibraltar 

Lisbon 
Madrid 

5> 
>> 

Fernando  Fe 
Paris  . 

?j      • 
Seville 


A.  Verdaguer,  Rambla  del  Centro,  5. 

A.  Beanland,  103  Church  Street, 

T.  Cook  &  Son. 

Mrs.  Lewtas,  Bookseller. 

Ftjentes  Y  CapdeyilI/E,  Plaza  de  Santa  Ana,  9. 

Romo  Y  FOssel,  Calle  de  Alcala,  5. 

T.  Cook  &  Son. 

Carrera  de  San  Ger6nimo. 

Galignani  Library,  Rue  de  Rivoli,  224. 

Brentano's,  Avenue  de  l'Opera,  37. 

Tomas  Sanz,  Calle  Sierpes,  90. 


OSHEA'S 


GUIDE    TO    SPAIN 


AND    PORTUGAL 


EDITED  BY  JOHN  LOMAS 


osition  of  Sr 


TWELFTH  EDITION 


LONDON 
ADAM    AND    CHAKLES    BLACK 

1902 


■S^ponn    \'^1^<=\tO 


4 1>  •  /*HUiA*44S 


4S  I^rurU^UL. 


PKEFACE  TO  THE  TWELFTH  EDITION. 

The  twelfth  edition  of  O'Shea's  Guide  to  Spain  and  Portugal; 
corrected  to  date,  marks  a  year  of  more  than  usual  interest  in 
the  history  of  Spain.  With  the  summer  of  1902  the  reins  of 
government  are  actually  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  youthful 
King  Alfonso  XIII. ;  and  to  a  young  monarch  full  of  excellent 
promise,  trained  for  his  part  with  the  most  scrupulous  and 
loving  care,  and  withal  placed  in  the  most  difficult  possible 
situation,  the  whole  civilised  world  may  well  wish  God-speed. 

In  the  preface  to  the  eleventh  edition  I  marked  a  wide 
increase  in  the  devotion  of  the  Spanish  people  to  the  principles 
of  monarchical  government  in  general,  and  to  the  noble  House, 
in  particular,  which  for-  now  close  upon  thirty  years  has 
identified  itself  with  the  highest  interests  of  the  land.  This 
feeling  of  loyalty  I  find  more  than  maintained — deepened ; 
and  the  confidence  in  Spain's  healthful  progress  which  I 
expressed  some  years  ago  I  repeat  now,  even  in  face  of  the 
prophets  of  evil  who  are  foreseeing  a  revolution  attendant  upon 
Catalonia's  endeavour  to  re-establish  her  ancient  autonomy,  and 
the  Prime  Minister's  intention  of  revising  the  Concordat  which 
regulates  the  relationships  of  Spain  with  the  Vatican,  and  of 
following  the  example  of  France  in  curtailing  the  overgrown 
liberty  of  the  religious  corporations.  A  country  which  has 
successfully,  and  with  wonderful  equanimity,  tided  over  the 
horror  and  despair  of  the  Hispano- American  war,  the  revolt  of 
the  Philippines,  and  the  loss  of  great  colonial  possessions,  will 
not,  I  venture  to  think,  be  found  wanting  in  the  hour  of  lesser 


iv  PREFACE 

trials.  The  fact,  too,  is  often  lost  sight  of,  that  the  greater 
security  offered  to  life  and  property  by  a  stable  dynasty,  by  a 
purer  administration  of  the  laws,  by  the  stern  repression  of 
brigandage,  by  a  fairly  honest  establishment  of  an  equilibrium 
between  expenditure  and  revenue,  and  by  increased  means  of 
travel  and  intercommunication,  sets  up  a  bulwark  of  civilisation 
against  which  the  cabals  and  individual  ambitions  of  thirty 
years  ago  are  comparatively  powerless. 

But  few  important  changes  have  to  be  noted  since  the 
appearance  of  the  eleventh  edition ;  even  the  important  trunk 
lines  of  Murcia-Granada,  Santander-Oviedo,  Cuenca- Valencia, 
to  the  completion  of  which  the  tourist  has  been  for  so  many 
years  looking  forward,  being  still  unfinished.  It  will  be  found, 
however,  that  solid  progress  has  been  made  in  the  way  of  pro- 
viding facilities  of  travel,  and  that,  speaking  generally,  the 
hotels  throughout  the  country  have  been  placed  upon  a  footing 
that  will  bear  comparison  with  the  highest  Continental  standard. 

I  have  to  thank  the  many  correspondents  who  have  favoured 
me  with  criticisms  and  suggestions,  and  to  say  how  greatly  I 
value  the  help  thus  given  to  me  in  the  task  of  keeping  the 
Guide  up  to  date  and  making  it  generally  useful.  And  again  I 
may  add  that  I  am  at  all  times  willing  to  give  special  detailed 
information  to  any  one  intending  to  visit  or  sojourn  in  the 
Peninsula,  if  they  will  address  me  under  cover  to  the  publishers. 

JOHN  LOMAS. 

February  1902. 


CONTENTS. 


General  Information  —Travelling— Hotels— Architecture,  eta 

Page 
Aloala  (de  Henares)         .        .        1 

Alicante 5 

Almaden 13 


Almeria  . 

Andalusia  . 

Aragon  (Spanish  Pyrenees) 

Aranjuez    . 

Asturias 

Avila  . 


Balearic  Islands  ;  see  Palma. 

Barcelona  . 

Basque  Provinces 

Bilbao 

Burgos 

Caceres 

Cadiz 

Cartagena 

Castiles  (N 

Catalufia 

Cordova 

Coruiia  (La) 

Esoorial  . 
Estremadura 

Galicia    . 
Gibraltar   . 


ew  and  Old) 


14 
16 
18 
20 
24 
28 


31 
58 
63 

68 

88 
91 
103 
105 
106 
110 
122 

128 
144 

145 
149 


Gijon 

Granada  and  Alhambra 

Granja  (La) 


Jerez 

Leon 

Madrid 

Climate  . 

History  . 

Hotels    . 

General  Description   . 

Royal  Palace    . 

Armoury 

Picture-Gallery 

Gallery  of  Sculpture  . 

Minor  Picture-Galleries 

Private  Galleries 

Libraries 

Churches 

Public  Buildings 

Streets,  etc. 

Theatres,  bull-rings,  etc 

Directory 

Environs 
Malaga 
Murcia 

Navarre  . 
Ovisdo 


Pages  ix-cxi 

Page 

.     159 

.     161 

.     209 


210 

215 

242 
856 
267 
268 
269 
263 
267 
270 
287 
287 
288 
291 
292 
295 
296 
801 
803 
805 
806 
820 

327 
330 


VI 


Palma  and  Balearic  Islands 


Salamanca 
Santander 
Santiago  . 
Segovia    . 
Seville 

Cathedral 
Churches 
Picture-Gallery 
Libraries 
The  Lonja 
The  Alcazar  . 
Private  Buildings 


PORTUGAL    . 
Badajoz  . 


Lisbon 


Environs 


CONTENTS. 

Page 
da      .     341 

Seville— continued. 

Page 

.     356 

Giralda 
Streets  . 

410 
412 

.     361 
.     364 

Theatres 
Enrirons 

413 
415 

.     B68 
.     871 

Tangier,  Tetuan,  etc 
Tarragona 

(Morocco)    417 
.424 

.      882  Toledo      . 

894  1 

.     430 

89«  Valencia 

.     469 

•      400  Valladolid 

.     493 

'      **  Vigo         .        .        . 

•        405 

.     506 

406  '  ZarAGOZA 

.     509 

686ICOIMBRA  . 


535 
542 


Porto  (Oporto) 


Pages  529-555 


.     545 


.    550 


Index   . 


567 


410 
412 
(13 
15 

7 
i 

0 


MAPS  AND  PLANS 


General  Map  of  Spain  and  Portugal 

Balearic  Islands 

Flans  of  Towns— 

Barcelona    . 

Bilbao 

Cadiz  . 

Cordova 

Gibraltar 

Granada 

Madrid 

Malaga 

Oporto 

Salamanca    . 

San  Sebastian 

Seville 

Toledo 

Valladolid   . 

Valencia 

Zaragoza 

Lisbon 

Ground-Plane— 

Alhambra,  The 

Burgos  Cathedral 

Escorial 

Leon  Cathedral 

Madrid  Picture  Gallery 

Seville  Cathedral 

Toledo  Cathedral 

HALLWAY  CHARTS. 

Madrid  to  Toledo,  Albacete,  Alicante,  Murcia,  Cartagena,  and 
Valencia  ....... 

Madrid  and  Bilbao  to  Zaragoza,  Lerida,  and  Barcelona 
Madrid  to  Cordova,   Seville  and  Cadiz,    and   Malaga  and 
Granada  ....... 

Great  Northern  Railway — from  the  French  frontier  to  Madrid 

Mediterranean  Line — Barcelona  to  Gerona,  Tarragona,  Valencia, 

and  Alicante       ...... 

Madrid  to  Badajoz,  Lisbon,  and  Oporto 


End  of  Volume 

Page 
341 


41 
63 
91 
110 
152 
170 
256 
311 
550 
356 
246 
375 
430 
493 
479 
509 
537 

173 
70 
128 
221 
270 
382 
436 


5 
31 

91 
242 

473 
529 


Agriculture,  p.  xxxir. 


Bull-FiRhts,  icvii. 

Geography 

Churches,  lxvit. 

Geology,  * 

Cigars,  ci. 

Climate,  xxviii- 

Cmbs,  dv. 

Hotels,  ivi 

Cojtume,  xa. 

Languaee, 

Travelling  in  Spain:  Hints. 
Whbn  to  Travel. — The  best  seasons  of  the  year  for  travelling  in  Spain 
are  autumn,  winter,  or  spring  in  the  South  ;  spring  in  the  Centre  and 
East ;  and  summer  or  early  autumn  in  the  North  and  West.  Andalusia 
and  Castile,  Valencia  and  EBtremadura,  must  not  be  thought  of  in  summer, 
as  the  heat  is  then  intolerable,  and  riding  out  of  the  question.  In  winter 
Seville,  Malaga,  Alicante,  Barcelona,  or  Valencia  are  pleasant  residences. 
Spring  is  delightful  in  Seville,  Eonda,  and  Granada;  and  Astnrias, 
Galicia,  and  the  Spanish  Pyrenees  may  be  visited  in  April,  May,  and 
June.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that,  with  the  exception  of  Andalusia 
and  Valencia,  winter  in  Spain  is  almost  as  severe  as  it  is  in  the  northern 
countries  of  Europe  -,  and  in  Asturias  the  enow  makes  the  roads  literally 
impracticable,  and  diligences  oeaae  running  during  the  severest  months. 
Tourists:  will  do  well  not  to  dare  the  arrowy  sunbeams  in  July  and 
August,  and  even  September,  nor  to  expose  themselves  to  the  icy  blasts 
of  Castile  and  the  N.  during  winter.  Invalids  who  intend  wintering  in 
■he  S.  of  Spain  can  either  proceed  thither  by  Barcelona  and  Valencia, 
along  the  Mediterranean,  or  by  sea  from  Marseilles  to  either  Valencia  or 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 


Alicante  and  Malaga,  or  by  Atlantic  steamers  direct  to  Lisbon,  Cadiz,  or 
Gibraltar.  The  direct  railway  route  through  France  and  by  Castile 
and  Madrid  is  more  expensive  and  more  exposed  to  cold,  but  the 
express  through  trains  are  admirably  appointed. 

How  to  Travel — The  finest  scenery  in  Spain  is  in  Andalusia  and 
in  the  N.E.  and  N.W.  portions ;  the  most  interesting  cities  are  in 
Andalusia  and  Castile.  Spain  may  be  entered  in  a  variety  of  ways,  and 
this  must  be  decided  by  the  tourist  himself.  The  cheapest  is  by  sea 
from  Southampton  or  London  to  Cadiz.  In  this  way  the  principal 
cities  might  be  visited,  except  Granada,  at  a  comparatively  small  expense, 
and  in  about  a  fortnight— viz.    .-' 

Cadiz  (where  stay)    .......      i  day. 


Seville,  by  rail  .......     2 

Cordoba,  rail  .......      1 

Madrid  (Toledo,  Escurial),  rail  .  3 

Burgos,  rail  .   - 1 

Bayonne,  rail.,  and  embark  to  London  or  Liverpool  here  or  at 
Bordeaux ;  the  cost  would  be  about  £50. 


>> 


>» 


»» 


1.  Direct  from  England  to  Spain  by  sea,  either  from  Southampton  or 
London  to  Cadiz  or  Gibraltar,  4  or  5  days  ;  or  from  Liverpool  to  Coruna, 
Vigo,  Lisbon,  or  Gibraltar. 

2.  From  France,  A,  by  Paris,  Bordeaux,  and  Bayonne. 

Time, — Paris  to  Bordeaux,  9  hrs.  by  express  and  14  hrs.  by  slow  (omnibus) 
train.     Bordeaux  to  Bayonne,  4J  hrs.  by  express  and  6  hrs.  by  slow. 

GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Coolts  International  Travelling  Tickets  are  available  for  one  or  more  tourists  by  any 
train,  steamer,  or  diligence. 

m  There  are,  besides,  cheap  services  of  tickets  for  circular  journeys  in  Spain  and  Portugal,  by 
using  which  travellers  may  effect  a  great  saving.  These  are  duly  and  from  time  to  time  set 
forth  in  the#  ( Guia  Oficial  de  los  Ferro-Carriles  de  Espana  y  Portugal,'  and  in  the  French 
'  Livret-Chaix,'  etc.  There  is  a  considerable  choice  of  routes,  from  short  tours  of  30  days,  costing 
about  £6,  to  complete  viajes  circulares  of  85  days,  costing  about  £ij  (first  class).  Tickets  may 
be  obtained  at  the  principal  termini,  or  through  any  good  tourist  agent. 

B.  From  Paris  by  Lyons,  Avignon,  Montpellier,  Perpignan. 


Paris  to  Lyons     .... 

Kil.    Miles. 

Express  Train. 

xst  Class. 

2d  Class.  '  3d  Class. 

5™  ,  3i8 

11  hrs.  90  min. 

56fr.  80c. 

42ft-.  60c. 

3ifr.  25c. 

«3°     243 

Tarascon  (branch  line  to) 
Montpellier  and  Cette)  .  J 

1 
21  !    13 

1 

5  hrs.  36  min. 

a8fr.  10c 

aifr.  ioc. 

I5U-  45c. 

38      i7i 

49       30* 

Cette  (branch  to  Bordeaux, ) 
9  hrs.),  476  kil.   .      .    .  | 

Narbonne  (branch  to  Tou- ) 
louse),  140  kil.,  3  hrs.    .  f 

38       x7J 

3  hrs.    5  min. 

nfr.  75c. 

8fr.  80c 

6fr.    45c. 

7* 

44 

t>3 

39^ 
6a3 

5  hrs.    5  min. 

14ft.  65c. 

utr.    oc 

8fr.     5C 

1002 

25  hrs.    6  min. 

mfr.  30c. 

836-.  50c  ■  6ifr.  20c. 

TRAVELLING.  Xi 

C.  From  Marseilles  to  Barcelona,  Malaga,  or  Alicante  by  sea  (see 
those  cities). 

D.  Paris  to  Bordeaux,  Toulouse,  Narbonne,  to  Barcelona,  in  24  hrs, 

E.  Paris  to  Barcelona  (central  line)  vid  Arvant,  St.  Germain-des- 
Fosses  and  Port  Bou,  in  36  hrs. 

A  Complete  Tour  through  Spain  can  be  performed  in  about  70  days 
to  3  months,  staying  1  day  generally  in  most  places.  The  principal  cities 
and  most  interesting  scenery  are  comprised. 

Bayonne  to  Bilbao,  by  steamers,  riding,  or  rail. 

Santander,  do.  do.  do. 

Gijon,  do.  do.  do. 

Oviedo,  rail  (whence  either  to  Leon  by  rail),  or 

CoruSa,  dil.,  riding  along  sea-coast,  steamer  from  Gijon,  or  by  Leon  rafl. 

Santiago,  dil. 

Vigo,  rail  and  dil. 

Leon  by  rail. 

Burgos,  rl.  (by  Valencia  and  V.  de  Banos). 

Valladolid,  rl.,  and  to  Medina,  rl.,  whence  rail  to  Salamanca,  and  back  to  Valladolid,  or 

direct  to 
Madrid,  rl. 
Cordova,  rL 
Seville,  rl. 
Cadiz.  rL 

Gibraltar,  st,  dil.,  or  riding  (excursion  to  TangierX 
Malaga,  by  st.,  riding,  by  Marbella,  or  by  Ronda  (rail). 
Granada,  by  rl.  or  riding.  # 
Murcia  by  rail  or  diL  or  ride  to  Almeria,  whence  to  Cartagena,  by  st.  and  rl.,  to  Murcia, 

or  avoid  it  by  st.  from  Mai.  to  Alicante. 
Alicante,  by  rail  through  Orihuela,  or  by  rail  through  Chinchilla. 
Valencia,  by  rail  or  st. 
Tarragona,  by  rail. 

Barcelona,  by  rail  (to  Perpignan  by  rail),  or 
Zaragoza,  by  rail. 
Bayonne  (by  rL  through  Pamplona  and  S.  Sebastian^ 

A  Short  Tour — the  easiest  and  most  rapid. 

Bayonne  to  Burgos  (cathedral),  by  rl. ;  stay  i  day. 

Madrid,  Picture-Gallery,  rl. — 4  days  (x  for  Toledo :  Cathedral ;  1  for  Escorial :  Church). 

Cordova,  rail  (mosque),  x  day. 

Seville  (Cathedral,  Murillos),  2  days. 

Cadiz,  rl.  (the  bay)  x  day. 

Gibraltar,  st.  (or  avoid  it  and  come  back  to  Cordova,  whence  by  rl.  to),   1  day. 

Malaga  st  (scenery),  x  day. 

Granada,  rail  (Alhambra),  a  days. 

Valencia,  rL  from  Gran. ;  return  by  rl.  to  Cordova,  whence  to  Alcazar  Branch  St.,  and  dir. 

to  Valencia  (city,  Huerta),  x  day. 
Tarragona,  rL  (cathedral),  x  day ;  general  tourists  may  avoid  it,  and  continue  on  to 
Barcelona,  rL  (city,  churches,  scenery),  2  days. 

Zaragoza,  rl.  (two  cathedrals),  1  day,  or  enter  France  by  Perpignan  to  Toulouse  and  Lyons. 
Bayonne,  rL  (cadi,  exc  to  Biarritz),  x  day,  whence  to  raris  by  Bordeaux. 

This  tour,  which  allows  one  to  see  the  crime  of  Spain,  may  be  accom- 
plished in  30  days  ;  and  is  besides,  on  the  whole,  the  cheapest. 

If  coming  from  Marseilles,  and  including  the  Balearic  Islands  and 
Portugal  in  the  tour,  the  following  is  suggested  : — Marseilles  to  Barce- 
lona ;  then  to  Balearic  Islands,  Valencia,  Malaga,  Granada,  Cordova, 
Seville,  Cadiz ;  embark  there  for  Lisbon,  whence  by  rail  to  Madrid 
(Toledo,  Aranjuez,  and  Escorial),  and  return  to  Prance  by  Burgos  and 
Bayonne. 


•  • 


Xll  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Railways. — A  net  of  railways  is  fast  spreading  over  Spain,  and  the 
lines  now  connect  all  the  principal  cities  and  traverse  the  most  picturesque 
provinces.  To  those,  therefore,  who  do  not  intend  to  make  a  close  sur- 
vey of  every  nook  and  corner,  but  wish  merely  to  see  the  cream  of  Spain, 
in  a  comfortable,  safe,  and  speedy  manner,  we  certainly  recommend  to 
follow,  as  much  as  possible,  the  lines  of  ferro-carriles,  which  will  save 
time,  jolting  in  diligences,  imposition,  and  trouble,  the  journeys  being 
arranged,  if  possible,  so  as  to  travel  by  the  tri-weekly  expresses  which 
run  upon  most  through  lines.  Return  tickets  (billetes  de  ida  y  vueUa) 
are  rarely  issued,  and  are  of  slight  advantage ;  and  the  circular  tickets 
advertised  by  the  various  companies  are  hardly  worth  inquiring  after. 
The  first-class  carriages  are  good  ;  the  second  and  third  classes  poor,  so 
that  first-class  tickets  should,  if  possible,  be  taken.  Upon  most  lines, 
especially  if  the  scenery  be  fine,  it  is  well  to  pay  a  * supplement*  of 
ten  per  cent,  and  take  the  berlina  (coupe)  carriages.  Sleeping  accommo- 
dation, either  in  the  wagons-lits  of  the  Compagnie  Internationale  or 
in  ordinary  berlina-camasi  can  be  secured  for  almost  any  night  journey, 
at  a  cost  of  about  fifty  per  cent  above  first-class  fare.  The  station 
buffets  as  a  rule  are  good,  and  not  extortionate,  and  meal-times  are 
always  arranged  for  in  the  itinerary.  The  monthly  Guia  para  los 
Viajeros  de  los  Ferro-Oarriles  will  be  found  most  useful,  and  is  accurate. 


THE    ROAD. 

Diligences  and  Malle-poste. — Dils.  are  generally  divided  into  three 
compartments.  The  first  is  called  berlina  (in  French  coup6),  and  holds 
three  persons.  It  is  the  most  agreeable  in  summer,  but  cold  in  winter, 
and  the  dearest  of  the  three.  The  seats  are  thus  placed  : — 1,  3,  2.  The 
2d  compartment  is  called  el  interior,  and  holds  three  or  four,  and  some- 
times is  made  to  hold  six  persons,  and  corresponds  to  2d  class  by  rail : 
the  movement  is  the  best  of  the  three.  The  3d  compartment  is  la  ro- 
tonda:  the  movement  is  very  bad,  and  the  society  not  very  select.  The 
dickey,  above,  called  coupe,  or  imperial  (in  French,  banquette),  is  the 
cheapest,  and  we  recommend  it  to  men  or  ladies  who  do  not  mind  climb- 
ing, as  it  is  the  pleasantest  in  spring  and  summer ;  but  in  winter  it  is 
the  last  place  to  take.  Some  dils.  have  two  berlinas.  The  rate  of  speed 
is  about  2  leagues  an  hour,  more  usually  2£,  and  the  price  5  to  7r.  a 
league.  The  coachman  or  conductor  is  called  mayoral;  he  has  the 
responsible  care  of  travellers  and  carriage,  and  usually  drives  himself. 
The  zagal  is  the  man  who  runs  by  the  side  of  the  mules,  whipping  the 
laggards,  and  encouraging  them  with  oaths,  and  calling  to  them  by  their 
names.  The  postilion  is  called  'el  delantero/  and  is  usually  a  boy 
between  12  and  19,  who  has  sometimes  to  ride  for  three  days  and  three 
nights  incessantly.     The  mayoral  is  paid  pes.  5  a  day,  the  zagal  pes.  3£, 


TRAVELLING.  Xlll 

and  the  post-boy  pes.  7^.  It  is  usual  to  give  some  small  fee  ;  if  a  long 
journey,  and  he  has  been  civil,  give  the  mayoral  a  5f.  piece.  The  mules, 
8,  10,  and  sometimes  even  14  to  a  team,  are  strong,  hardy,  but  vicious 
animals,  worth  from  300  or  500  to  1200  francs.  The  baggage  allowed 
is  15  kils.  (30  lbs.)  The  exces  de  poids  is  high.  We  caution  travellers 
against  unfair  weighing  in  different  dil.  offices,  to  avoid  which  they  had 
oetter  see  it  weighed  before  leaving  on  their  journey,  and  note  it  down. 
Ladies  had  better  carry  as  little  as  possible,  and  if  they  intend  to  ride 
some  time,  had  better  be  provided  with  a  small  portmanteau  to  fasten  on 
a  horse,  and  strong  leather  bags.  Sacs  de  voyage,  travelling  toilet-cases, 
and  the  like,  are  cumbersome,  and  exposed  to  rough  handling. 

Riding  is  the  most  pleasant  way  of  travelling,  provided  one  is  strong 
and  disposed  to  rough  it  Always  attend  to  the  provend — fill  the  bota, 
and  become  friends  with  your  guide,  who,  if  you  give  yourself  any 
'  humos'  (airs),  will  either  leave  you  in  the  lurch,  or  not  make  it  plea- 
sant ;  instead  of  which,  with  some  puros,  and  a  compliment  to  the  horses 
and  the  country,  you  may  obtain  a  deal  of  information,  and  often  some 
capital  and  well-told  stories  full  of  salt  and  couleur  locale,  to  beguile  the 
way.  The  usual  charges  are  30r.  to  $2  a-day  for  a  horse,  not  paying  his 
keep ;  and  one  dollar  to  the  guide,  without  paying  his  feeding  or  lodgings. 
The  price  for  a  bed  and  supper  at  a  venta  is  about  from  pes.  3  to  pes.  5 
a  night  in  the  South,  and  even  cheaper  in  the  North.  Always  allow  the 
guide  to  settle  about  the  inns  to  put  up  at,  and  the  hours  of  starting,  but 
attend  yourself  to  the  pTovend,  and  girt  the  saddle  and  see  to  the  bridle 
and  shoeing  of  your  horse.  As  for  robbers,  none  are  to  be  found  in 
Spain,  but  a  revolver  is  a  companion  commanding  respect. 

It  will  be  as  well  to  acquaint  the  riding  tourist  with  several  terms 
used  in  such  expeditions  to  design  bridle-roads,  etc.  Trocha,  a  short  cut 
out  of  the  common  road ;  camino  de  herradura,  bridle-road,  literally 
horse-shoe  road  ;  sendero  or  senda,  a  pathway — a  way  just  marked  out  by 
the  foot  of  the  smuggler  and  labourer ;  camino  de  perdices,  road  of  par- 
tridges— difficult,  found  out  rather  by  instinct  than  otherwise ;  camino 
real  or  carreteray  Government  road — high  road ;  arrecifes,  name  given 
in  Andalusia  to  high  roads  or  causeways — chauss£es  ;  travesia  and  camino 
de  atajo,  a  short  cut — a  bye-way ;  rambla,  a  sort  of  road ;  or  better,  bed 
of  river,  which  being  dry  in  summer  serves  as  a  road,  etc  The  ordinary 
pace  is  1 J  league  an  hour.  Mules  are  sometimes  preferable  to  horses,,  aa 
having  a  better  and  steadier  pace  and  surer  foot. 

Side-saddles  for  ladies  are  recommended  in  preference  to  a  chair, 
sometimes  placed  on  one  side,  which,  however,  may  be  adopted,  except 
where  hilly  districts  are  to  be  traversed.  Return  of  horses  and  men  is 
always  understood  in  the  bargain,  where  the  contrary  has  not  been  speci- 
fied. The  principal  riding  tours  are  in  Andalusia  and  Asturias,  and 
some  in  the  Spanish  Pyrenees.      Where  the  country  abounds  in  pictur- 


XIV  GENERAL   INFORMATION. 

esque  scenery,  and  when  undertaken  in  autumn  or  spring,  this  mode  of 
travelling  will  prove  a  source  of  great  enjoyment,  of  health  and  manly 
exertion.  Without  a  ride  in  the  South  a  voyage  to  Spain  cannot  he  called 
complete,  and  we  must  say  with  Lord  Byron — 

Though  sluggards  deem  it  but  an  idle  chace, 
And  marvel  men  should  quit  their  easy  chair, 
The  toilsome  way,  and  lone,  long  league  to  trace, 
Oh !  there  is  sweetness  in  the  mountain  air, 
And  life,  that  bloated  ease  can  never  hope  to  share. 

Pasting  is  no  longer  resorted  to  now-a-days. 

Galeras. — Waggon-carts  covered  over,  without  springs,  performing  7 
or  8  leagues  a-day,  at  a  alow  pace,  and  dragged  by  some  8,  10,  or  12 
mules.  TLey  stop  for  the  night  at  the  posada,  ventas,  or  ventorillo.  It 
is  a  very  slow  and  fatiguing  way  of  travelling,  and  riding  is  by  far  pre- 
ferable. 

Cycling  tours  are  in  many  districts  favoured  by  long  stretches  of 
flat  and  excellent  roads.  They  are  especially  agreeable  in  Portugal  and 
the  N.W.  Spain,  and  no  longer  excite  undue  curiosity.  Passes  are 
granted  for  six  months  at  the  frontier  stations  upon  payment  of  pes.  1 
and  85  c.  per  kilogramme  on  the  machine  *weight,  the  latter,  a  fixed 
deposit,  being  returned  if  the  cyclist  leaves  the  country  before  the 
expiry  of  the  six  months.  '  Sketches  Awheel  in  Fin  de  Siecle  Iberia ' 
(Workman  :  London,  189^)  will  be  found  useful  for  further  information. 

STEAMERS. 

N.  German  Lloyd,  the  P.  and  0.,  the  Royal  Mail,  Cunard,  and  Pacific 
Steam  Co.  have  superior  speed  and  accommodation.  Messrs.  Hall's 
steamers  leave  London  weekly  for  Lisbon,  Gibraltar,  Malaga  and  Cadiz. 
Messrs.  MacAndrew's  steamers  run  at  frequent  intervals  to  the  principal 
ports  on  the  Atlantic  and  Mediterranean.  There  is  regular  steam  com- 
munication between  Seville,  Cadiz  and  Marseilles  ;  also  between  Mar- 
seilles, the  east  ports  and  Oran.  The  boats  of  the  Compania  Trasatlantica 
can  be  utilised  for  most  of  the  Mediterranean  and  western  ports. 

The  Spanish  steamers,  except  those  of  the  Trasatlantica,  are 
neither  fast  nor  comfortable.  The  cabins  are  called  camarotes  de  la,  2a, 
y  3  a  close.  Children  under  three  years  of  age  do  not  pay  ;  from  3  to 
7,  only  half-passage.  The  luggage  allowed  to  each  first  and  second  class 
passenger  varies  from  80  to  100  kilog.  Meals  are  generally  not  included 
in  the  ticket ;  10  to  12r.  a  breakfast,  and  14  to  16r.  dinner. 

Yachtmg. — The  principal  ports  to  visit  are  Bilbao,  Gijon,  Coruiia, 
Vigo  (Portugal,  Oporto,  Lisbon),  Seville,  Cadiz,  Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Ali- 
cante, Valencia,  and  Barcelona.  The  Commandante  del  Puerto  is  the 
chief  authority.     The  best  season  is  summer  and  autumn. 

PASSPORTS. 

According  to  decree  of  December  17,  1862,  no  passports  are  required 
from  foreigners  entering  Spain,  or  from  Spaniards  going  to  England  or 


TRAVELLING.  XV 

France.  Foreigners  are,  however,  liable  to  be  called  upon  by  local 
Spanish  authorities  to  declare  their  nationality,  and  object  of  their  jour-  ' 
ney.  Any  document  establishing  the  identity,  or  a  declaration  signed 
by  two  witnesses,  residents  at  the  place  where  it  may  be  required,  and 
purporting  their  knowledge  of  the  traveller  s  name,  will  suffice.  These 
are  scarcely  ever  required ;  but  an  English  passport,  vise'  by  a  Spanish 
Consul,  is  the  safest  companion, 

POST-OFPICE. 

Until  the  1 5th  century,  news,  letters,  and  Government  orders  were 
transmitted  in  Spain  by  horsemen,  and  more  especially  by  foot  messen- 
gers, andarines  (pedestrians),  like  the  hemerodromes  of  the  Greeks,  and 
the  Roman  cursores.  Philip  the  Fair  and  his  Queen  Dona  Juana  were 
the  first  to  establish  posting  regulations,  and  made  the  office  of  Maestro 
Mayor  de  Hostes,  Postas  y  Correos,  a  very  important  one,  which  became 
hereditary.  In  the  busy  reigns  of  Charles  V.  and  Philip  IL  this  appoint- 
ment was  no  sinecure,  as  couriers  were  always  '  on  the  wing,'  carrying 
orders  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  Letters  were  entrusted  to  especial  esta- 
fetas,  but  subsequently  the  Government  couriers  took  charge  of  them.  The 
first  vehicles  used  were  light  carts  (about  1642),  and  the  first  mail- 
coaches,  sillas  de  Posta  (postchaises),  began  to  run  in  1739.  Offices  were 
established  only  in  the  principal  cities,  and  until  1759  only  one  distri- 
bution of  letters  made  a  week.  The  first  daily  post  establishment  be- 
tween Bayonne  and  Madrid  was  begun  in  1844.  Shortly  after  a  diligence 
service  was  established,  and  we  remember  going  from  Madrid  to  Bayonne 
by  that  last  means  in  six  days,  sleeping,  haciendo  noche,  every  night.  Be- 
fore 1840  those  about  to  undertake  a  journey  in  Spain  called  a  priest,  a 
doctor,  and  an  Escribano,  confessed,  took  medicine,  and  wrote  their  will. 
Letter-writing  has  of  late  years  increased  in  proportion  as  letter-boxes  have 
been  established,  the  distribution  made  daily,  and  the  stamps  (sellcs)  di- 
minished in  price.  The  total  number  of  letters  in  1846  was  19,044,958  ; 
in  1897,  135,417,000. 

Letters. — Their  delivery  is  well  regulated,  and,  foreign  letters  some- 
times excepted,  most  of  them  end  by  arriving  al  puerto.  Letters  are 
never  opened  save  during  exceptional  pronv/nciamiento  moments  and  elec- 
tioneering time.  Letters  are  addressed  either  to  the  correspondent's  resi- 
dence, to  which  they  are  taken  by  the  postman  (el  cartero),  or  left  at  the  box 
till  called  for,  poste  restante,  in  Spanish  Correo.  Sr.  Don  stands  for  Sehor 
Don  (usual  mode  of  letter  address) ;  Pral.  for  Principal,  the  first  floor  ; 
2°.  the  2d  floor ;  dha.  for  derecha,  door  on  the  right ;  izda.  for  izquierda. 
left.  If  writing  to  a  foreigner,  poste  restante  (write  IAsta  del  correo  at  the 
bottom  of  the  envelope),  omit  as  much  as  possible  all  such  words  as  Chris- 
tian names,  titles,  Esq.,  etc.,  and  confine  yourself  to  writing  very  legibly  the 
surname.  This  will  avoid  loss  of  letters,  and  the  confusion  often  arising 
from  the  difficulties  experienced  by  the  Spanish  post-office  clerks  in  de- 


XVI  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

ciphering  English  names,  and  besides  it  facilitates  research,  as  all  letters 
addressed  poste  restante  (correo)  are  sorted  alphabetically,  or  according  a* 
they  arrive.  Sometimes  the  addresses  are  copied  and  exposed  on  boards 
at  the  post-offices.  Let  the  tourist,  who  will  visit  this  building  before 
any  other;  look  into  these  lists ;  when  he  finds  his  name  down,  let  Mm 
take  the  number  corresponding  to  it,  write  it  clearly,  and  give  it  to  an 
empUado.  The  passport  is  sometimes  asked  for,  or  in  lieu  an  old  letter- 
cover,  or  a  card,  will  be  sufficient  to  establish  identity.  We  also  advise 
tourists  to  go  themselves  to  claim  their  letters,  and  also  to  post  them,  as 
*  les  voyageurs  ont  toujours  tort.'  If  staying  any  time  in  the  same  town, 
letters  had  better  be  addressed  to  the  residence.  A  cuarto  is  then  paid 
to  the  cartero  for  every  letter  or  newspaper.  There  is  also  a  correo  inte- 
rior distributed  gratis  in  the  town  with  a  2-cuartos  stamp.  The  address 
consists  then  of  the  Senor  Don,  Christian  name,  surname,  street,  number, 
floor,  etc.,  and  at  the  foot '  correo  interior.'  Travellers  and  residents  may 
also  have  a  separate  division  for  their  letters,  and  an  earlier  delivery  of 
them,  by  paying  a  fixed  sum  for  this  division,  called  el  apartado — viz. 
pes.  60  per  annum  in  Madrid  ;  pea  50  in  some  large  cities  ;  25  or  20 
pes.  only  in  others.  The  charge  for  postage  is  by  weight,  irrespective 
of  distance.  The  stamps  are  called  sellos;  to  frank,  franquear;  an 
address,  sobrescrito  and  las  senas. 


Vocabulary  for  the  Post-Office. 

The  office,  el  despacho. 

A  letter,  una  carta. 

Postage-stamps,  sellos  del  correo. 

A  telegram,  un  telegrama  (or)  im  parte  telegrafico. 

Where  is  the  post-office  1     D&nde  estd  el  correo  ? 

Where  is  the  telegraph-office  1     D6nde  estd  la  oficina  del  telegrafo  t 

Are  there  any  letters  for  me  ?     Hay  cartas  para  mi  f 

Here  is  my  name  (or)  passport.     Este  es  mi  apettido  (or)  pasaporte. 

Where  is  the  list  ?     D&nde  estd,  la  lista  f 

Give  me  postage-stamps.     Deme  usted  sellos  de  franqueo  ;  foreign  stamps, 

sellos  para  el  extrangero  ;  Spanish  stamps,  sellos  para  el  interior 
Is  this  letter  too  heavy  ?     Sobrepesa  esta  carta  ? 
How  much  is  it  ?     Gudnto  vale  ? 

Must  this  letter  be  prepaid  1     Ray  que  franquear  esta  carta  ? 
Will  this  telegram  go  to-day  1     Se  puede  mandar  hoy  este  despacho  1 
Is  the  office  closed  ?     Estd  cerrado  el  despaclio  ? 
The  postman.     El  cartero. 


TRAVELLING.  XVli 


Stamp  Tariff, 


Letters  for  the  Peninsula  and  Isles. — 15  centimos  for  15  grammes. 
But  if  within  same  town  10  cents,  for  any  weight. 

Do.  to  England,  France,  Germany,  Russia,  and  United  States — 25 
cents,  for  every  15  grammes. 

Newspapers — 5  centimos  for  every  50  grammes. 

Pamphlets  and  papers  fastened  with  an  open  band  (faja)  for  directing. — 
To  any  part  of  Spain  1  cent,  for  every  50  grammes.  To  England,  France, 
etc.,  5  centimos  for  every  50  grammes. 

Post-cards. — All  parts  10  centimos. 

All  letters  must  be  prepaid,  or  they  will  be  charged  double. 

Fee  for  registration. —  25  centimos. 

N.B. — The  letter-rate  for  Portugal  and  Gibraltar  at  present  is  only 
10  c.  per  15  grammes.  Stamps  are  to  be  found  at  all  tobacconists 
(estancos).  The  boxes  are  called  buzones.  Registered  letters  are  called 
cartas  certificadas,  and  require  special  stamps  obtained  at  and  from  the 
Post-office. 


TELEGRAPH. 

• 

Telegraphs  began  to  be  established  about  1855,  and  now  connect 
the  whole  country.  The  lines  are  all  in  the  hands  of  the  Government. 
There  are  day  and  night  services  in  all  the  principal  cities.  A  tele- 
gram, un  despacho  telegr&fico,  may  be  written  in  French,  but  we  advise 
correspondents  in  Spain  to  write  theirs  in  Spanish.  The  tariff  is  as 
follows : — For  messages  of  15  words,  including  address  and  signature, 
for  any  part  of  Spain  1  peseta ;  for  every  word  beyond  fifteen  10 
cents.  (For  places  within  the  same  province  only  half  these  rates  are 
charged.)  For  telegrams  to  France,  20  centimos  per  word,  with  a 
tax  upon  each  message — liable  to  variation — of  about  1  peseta  50 
cents.  To  England,  44  cents,  per  word,  with  a  tax  of  about  2  pesetas 
upon  each  message.  Special  telegraph  stamps  are  required  ;  they  may 
be  obtained  either  in  an  adjacent  office  or  in  an  estanco.  Every 
word  put  down — address,  signature,  etc. — is  counted;  also  all  syl- 
lables or  words  connected  by  a  hyphen  or  apostrophe.  The  maximum 
extension  of  a  word  for  European  correspondence  is  fifteen  characters,  for 
extra-European  ten  characters.  The  writer  of  a  message,  by  paying  the 
cost  of  a  telegram  of  ten  words,  may  obtain  from  the  office  with  which 
he  is  communicating  an  "acuso  de  recibo,"  by  which  he  may  know 


Xviii  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

whether  Kis  telegram  has  been  received  at  the  office  to  which  it  was  sent. 
He  has  then  to  add  after  the  text,  and  before  the  signature,  the  words, 
Acuso  de  recibo.'  By  putting  in  the  same  place  the  words,  '  Colecci- 
6nese/  and  by  paying  over  again  half  the  cost  of  the  telegram,  he  will 
obtain  a  duplicate  of  it  sent  by  the  office  to  which  he  transmits  it  For  an 
answer  paid,  he  will  write  in  the  same  place  '  repuesta  (so  many)  palab- 
ras.'  A  receipt  is  always  given  by  the  office  clerk  to  the  telegram  writer. 
The  carriage  of  a  telegram  to  the  residence  of  the  parties  to  whom  it  is 
addressed  is  2r.  Telegrams  can  be  sent  paste  restante  f  correo  *)  and  fol- 
low the  tourists  who  have  informed  the  postmaster  of  the  place  they  are 
going  to,  etc. 

HOTELS   AND   LODGINGS. 

A  hotel  is  generally  called  La  Fonda  (from  fondak,  Arabics,  a  cara- 
vanserai). Posada  (rest,  repose,  which  it  seldom  affords)  is  the  hotel  at 
small  country  places,  of  carriers,  and  is  but  a  degree  higher  than  a  meson, 
the  arrieros'  usual  inn.  A  Venta  is  a  bye-way  meson,  where  the  accom- 
modation and  food  are  equally  bad.  A  Ventorro  and  Ventorillo  are  mere 
roadside  pot-houses,  where  a  bed  is  seldom  to  be  found.  La  Taberna  is 
the  cabaret,  the  wine-shop.  A  Fonda  is  called  sometimes  a  Paradory 
from  its  being  the  inn  where  diligences  stop  (parar)  for  meals  at  differ- 
ent hours  :  lodging,  meals  (with  wine),  and  service  are  usually  included  in 
the  price.  The  charges  in  large  cities  vary  from  10  to  15  pes.,  but 
1 2  pes.  may  be  taken  as  an  average.  The  table  dTi6te  (mesa  redoivda)  is 
generally  resorted  to,  although  the  company  is  often  of  a  mixed  char- 
acter. To  put  on  a  good  face  and  pass  on  the  dish  to  a  neighbour  is  the 
surest  way  to  avoid  remarks  and  a  bad  dinner.  The  cuisine  is  nowa- 
days at  estilo  de  Francia,  and  does  not  deserve  the  critique  of  the  fastidious 
traveller :  at  the  good  hotels  the  food  is  excellent,  and  quite  devoid  of 
the  proverbial  garlic  and  oil.  The  table  wine  supplied  should  be 
drunk  with  caution,  excellent  varieties  being  now  supplied  from  the 
*  carte '  at  a  low  price.  It  is  not  usual  to  take  either  tea  or  coffee  in 
the  hotel,  save  at  the  early  breakfast  (desayuno),  which  is  almost  in- 
variably served  in  the  bedrooms.     Tips  are  universally  expected. 

There  are  in  cities  casas  de  pupilos  and  de  hucspedes,  or  lodgings, 
where  meals  at  mesa  redonda  are  included.  The  terms  vary  from  2  Or. 
to  34r.  a-day.  A  very  comfortable  room  can  be  obtained  for  20r.  a-day. 
Those  that  are  to  let  have  a  piece  of  white  paper  placed  on  a  corner  at 
the  balcony.  When  not  furnished,  the  paper  is  placed  in  the  middle. 
Living  is  in  this  latter  way  exceedingly  cheap.  Indeed,  by  knowing  how 
to  manage,  an  economical  bachelor  (and  there  are  such  beings  in  the 
world)  can  live  at  the  rate  of  £8  to  .£10  a-month.  Young  artists  who 
have  to  make  their  way  in  the  world,  and  to  whom  economy  is  a  great 
object,  often  refrain  from  a  journey  to  this  land  of  art.  from  fear  of  the 


GEOGRAPHY   AND   STATISTICS,  xix 

expenses  of  travelling.  This  consideration  should  not  deter  them.  Let 
them  travel  two  or  three  together,  learn  a  few  of  the  most  useful  phrases 
in  Spanish ;  they  can  go  2d  class  by  steamers  from  England  to  Cadiz. 
There,  if  they  do  not  prefer  the  railway,  and  wish  to  see  the  scenery  at 
leisure,  they  will  purchase  mules  for  £20  each,  which  will  be  sold  for 
£15;  and  by  roughing  it  a  little,  joining  the  arrieros,  etc.,  they  will  be 
able  to  live  for  4s.  a-day,  keeping  besides  the  macho.  M.  Desbarolles,  a 
French  painter,  went  thus  with  a  brother  artist  all  over  Spain,  and  pub- 
lished his  tour,  *  Deux  Artistes  en  Espagne.' 

Geography  and  Statistics. 

Spain  is  situate  between  north  lat.  36° — 43°  47',  and  west  long.  9° 
17'  to  east  long.  3°  20'.  Its  greatest  length,  from  east  to  west,  is  560 
miles,  and  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  540  miles  Eng.  The  surface 
contains  193,000  sq.  miles  (three  times  more  than  England).  The 
longest  days  and  nights  are — in  the  northern  portion,  of  15  hrs.  15 
miiL,  and  in  the  south,  of  14  hrs.  30  min.  Geographical  division, 
based  on  climate,  is  out  of  the  question  in  a  country  that  contains  such 
variety  of  temperature  under  the  same  degree  of  latitude  :  that  based  on 
the  physical  configuration  is  easer.  According  to  Mr.  Bory  de  St.  Vin- 
cent, Spain  may  be  divided  into  seven  distinct  chains  of  mountains  : — 

1.  Pyrencean— Comprises  the  Pyrenees,  and  the  Asturian  or  Cantabric 
range. 

2.  Iberian — Contains  the  Sierra  de  Molina,  Moncayo,  Oca,  Albar- 
razin,  and  Cuenca,  which  form  that  vast  reservoir  from  which  the  four 
largest  rivers  flow  into  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Atlantic  ocean — namely, 
Guadalaviar  or  Turia,  Cabriel,  Jucar,  and  the  Tagus.  The  Sierra  de 
Espadan  rises  here  also,  extending  to  the  sea-coast. 

3.  Carpetano-  Vettonian — Constituted  by  the  reunion  of  the  Sierras  de 
Guadarrama  and  Somosierra,  which  thus  divide  the  Castiles.  It  com- 
prises also  the  group  of  the  Gredas  hills,  Sierra  de  Gata,  extending  to 
Portugal.  Here  are  especially  found  those  immense,  denuded,  wind- 
blown table-lands  called  paramos,  which  have  a  great  influence  on  this 
climate. 

4.  The  Lusitanian  zone  is  the  lowest  and  less  important  of  all  the 
Sierras,  and  belongs  more  especially  to  New  Castile  and  Estremadura. 
It  is  placed  between  Somosierra  on  the  north,  the  Molina  and  Cuenca 
ranges  to  east  and  south-east,  Guadarrama  to  north-east,  and  Sierra 
Morena  to  south. 

5.  Marian  (Montes  Mariani)  is  constituted  by  the  Sierra  Morena.  It 
is  the  most  metalliferous  of  all  in  Spain. 

6.  Cuncean — Formed  by  the  range  of  hills  that  extend  from  Porta 
legre^  towards  the  south,  between  the  Alemtejo  and  Algarves.  It  is  but 
a  prolongation  of  the  Lusitanian  zone. 

6 


XX  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

7.  The  Bcetican  comprises  the  extreme  southern  or  Andalusian  poi- 
tion — namely,  the  ranges  of  Ronda,  Alhama,  Tejada,  and  Sierra  Nevada 

Thus  the  whole  country,  a  vast  agglomeration  of  mountains,  com- 
parable to  a  gigantic  pyramid  half-way  severed,  rises  on  an  average  in 
the  central  portions  2000  to  3000  ft.  above  the  sea  (the  central  table- 
land is  about  93,000  square  miles).  There  are  valleys  situated  con- 
siderably above  6000  ft.  These  lofty  ranges,  were  they  seen  from  a 
baloon,  would  give  one  the  idea  of  the  mighty  skeleton  or  carcase  of  a 
ship  wrecked  leviathan,  whose  bones  protrude  through  the  tawny  skin 
and  verdant  soil.  These  intersect  the  surface  in  every  sense,  and  have 
been  most  effective  in  creating  differences  of  race,  laws,  and  history. 

Rivers. — The  Ebro  rises  near  Reynosa,  flows  for  450  miles,  and 
empties  its  waters  into  the  Mediterranean  near  Amposta.  The  Duerc 
(Douro  in  Portuguese)  rises  in  the  Sierra  de  Urbion,  north  of  Soria  ;  flows 
by  Zamora  for  460  miles,  and  is  emptied  into  the  Atlantic  below  Oporto. 
The  Tagus  {el  Tajo)  rises  in  the  hills  of  Albarrazin,  and  after  a  course  of 
600  miles,  flows  into  the  Atlantic  at  Lisbon.  The  Guadiana  rises  in  the 
Mancha,  near  Almagro,  crosses  Estremadura,  and  flows: — after  a  course  of 
520  miles — into  the  ocean  at  Ayamonte.  The  Guadalquivir  rises  in  the 
gorges  of  Sierra  de.Cazorla,  then,  after  a  course  of  400  miles,  empties 
itself  into  the  Atlantic  near  Cadiz.  There  are  besides  60  to  70  minor 
ones,  with  thousands  of  tributaries.  The  beds  of  rivers  in  Spain  are 
generally  dry  in  summer,  and  become  torrents  in  the  winter  and  spring. 

Canals. —  Canal  Imperial  de  Aragon,  begun  in  the  reign  of  Charles 
III.,  formed  with  the  waters  from  the  Ebro,  navigable  from  El  Bocal  to 
Almenara,  and  beyond  used  only  for  irrigation.  Canal  of  Castile,  152 
kil.  long,  from  Alar  del  Rey  to  Valladolid ;  navigable;  begun  1753. 
Canal  of  San  Fernando,  not  completed  :  the  object  is  to  make  all  the 
Guadalquivir  navigable.  Canal  de  la  Albufei%a  (Valencia)  not  concluded  ; 
30  kil.  long  ;  begins  at  Sueca.  Canal  de  Urgel,  for  irrigation.  Canal 
de  Isabel  II ;  the  most  important ;  the  object,  to  supply  Madrid  and  the 
provinces  with  water.  Canal  de  Esla,  begun  in  1864  by  English 
engineers,  and  finished  in  the  (for  Spain)  remarkably  short  space  of  five 
years,  for  irrigation  purposes. 

Spain  was  formerly  divided  into  fourteen  large  provinces,  called  by 
different  names — Reinos  (kingdoms),  Senorios,  Principados,  etc.  In  1841 
this  classification  disappeared,  and  the  country  is  now  divided  into  forty- 
nine  provinces. 

The  provinces  are  :  Alava,  Albacete,  Alicante,  Almeria,  Avila, 
Badajoz,  Balearic  Islands,  Barcelona,  Burgos,  Caceres,  Cadiz,  Canary 
Islands,  Castellon,  Ciudad  Real,  Cordova,  Coruiia,  Cuenca,  Gerona, 
Granada,  Gaudalajara,  Guipuzcoa,  Huelva,  Huesca,  Jaen,  Leon,  Lerida, 
Logrono,  Lugo,  Madrid,  Murcia,  Malaga,  Navarra,  Orensc,  Oviedo, 
Palencia,    Pontevedra,   Salamanca,   Santander,   Segovia,   Seville,   Soria, 


GEOLOGY.  XXI 

Tarragona,  Teruel,  Toledo,  Valencia,  Valladolid,  Vizcaya,  Zamora,  Zara- 
goza.  It  is  ecclesiastically  divided  into  nine  archbishoprics  and  forty- 
six  bishoprics,  and  militarily  into  seventeen  Capitanias-Generales. 

The  Population  amounted  in  1897  to  19,200,000,  or  100  inhabitants 
to  the  square  mile.     In  the  reign  of  Philip  II.  it  was  only  8,206,791. 

The  standing  army  numbers  120,000  men  ;  the  navy  comprises  126 
ships  (7  ironclads)  with  356  guns,  14  torpedoes,  and  about  22,000 
men.  For  details  on  the  trade,  education,  and  everything  connected 
with  statistics,  we  refer  our  readers  to  the  'Anuario  Estadfstico  de 
Espana,'  which  is  published  annually  ;  to  the  *  Revista  de  Estadfstica/ 
published  at  Madrid  and  Barcelona ;  to  Sr.  Garrido's  excellent c  Espagne 
Contemporaine/  and  to  the  recent  Boletins. 

Maps. — The  best  maps  of  Spain  are  those  published  by  Sr.  D. 
Francisco  Coello.  His  Atlas  of  Spain  and  Ultramarine  possessions,  on 
the  scale  of  ^(nrinnr*  is  fairly  complete.  The  map  of  Spain,  ordered  by 
Government  and  entrusted  to  an  especial  Commission  of  Officers,  is  far 
from  being  finished.  We  recommend  Cabanes'  map,  found  in  his  '  Quia 
General/  useful  as  a  general  travelling-map  ;  but  those  who  seek  for 
more  details  and  greater  exactitude,  those  travelling  in  especial  districts, 
riding  or  walking  tourists,  will  do  well  to  provide  themselves  with  the 
Atlas  of  Madoz's  Dictionary.  Monsieur  Dufour  has  also  published 
separate  maps  of  provinces,  with  routes.  We  recommend  also,  '  Dic- 
cionario  Geografico-estadistico  Historico '  of  Madoz  and  Coello,  1 6  vols. 
4to.  Madrid  1848-50.  Its  price  is  high,  but  the  contents  are  of  great 
value  and  the  statements  are  generally  trustworthy.  The  Mapa  Itinerario 
Milztar  is  detailed  and  fairly  accurate,  but  shows  no  mountain  ranges. 

Of  the  Pyrenees — M.  L^zat's  general  map  (Paris,  Chaix),  or  that 
drawn  up  by  the  French  Military  Engineers. 

Geology. 

It  would  be  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  Spain  is  terra  incognita  to  geolo- 
gists. Many  regions  there  are,  doubtless,  where  the  hammer  has  not 
as  yet  sounded,  but  many  more  have  been  studied  with  care  and  intelli- 
gence, as  well  by  native  geologists  as  by  foreign,  and  the  list  of  works  we 
subjoin  will  leave  little  doubt  on  the  subject.  According  to  the  savants 
who  have  explored  this  country,  Spain  is  a  most  interesting  field,  and 
the  study  of  its  geological  formations  of  a  nature  to  enrich  the  science 
generally.  Bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Pyrenees  and  Cantabric  range, 
Spain  is  traversed  obliquely,  from  E.N.E.  to  W.S.W.,  by  four  orological 
systems  or  ranges,  viz. — 1.  The  Sierra  Guadarrama,  which  is  joined  to 
the  Sierras  de  Gredas,  Gata,  Estrella,  and  extends  to  the  ocean.  2.  The 
Montes  de  Toledo.  3.  Sierra  Morena,  forming  the  promontory  to  S.W. 
called  Cape  St  Vincent.     4.  The  Southern  range,  which  comprises  the 


xxil  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Sierra  Nevada,  Tejada,  and  Ronda.  They  are,  of  course,  of  different  periods 
The  earliest  are  in  the  centre  of  the  Peninsula — viz.  Montes  of  Toledo  and 
Sierra  Morena.  This  nucleus  is  entirely  palaeozoic.  No  portion  of  the 
secondary  .period  is  noticeable,  not  even  the  oldest  triassic  limestone. 

The  carboniferous  deposits  are  situated  on  the  southern  part  of  the 
range.  They  generally  contain  in  the  lower  portion  limestone,  with 
fossils  ;  among  them  the  Productus  acmireticulatus.  The  coal  is  found 
with  conglomerates  and  limestone.  The  most  important  deposits  are  those 
of  Belmez,  Espiel,  and  Villanueva  del  Rio,  near  Seville.  As  in  Asturias, 
the  strata  are  raised  and  often  vertical.  Devonian  rocks  are  well  de- 
veloped in  the  N.  and  S.  of  Almaden,  and  appear  alternately  with  Silurian 
strata.  The  fossils  are  found  in  grit  and  limestone,  more  rarely  in 
schists.  The  principal  are :  Productus  subacufoatus,  Zeptcena  dutertrii, 
Spirifer  verneM,  Spirigera  concentrica,  etc.  The  upper  Silurian  rocks 
are  not  so  fully  represented  as  the  Devonian.  There  are  traces  some 
19  miles  N.E.  of  Cordova.  But  the  lower  Silurian  rocks  are  well 
characterised  in  this  range  and  the  Monies  de  Toledo.  They  follow  an 
ascendant  direction,  N.  to  S.  The  lower  strata  are  composed  of  schists 
and  prammites,  then  comes  a  thick  mass  of  quartzite,  not  unlike  the 
Stiperstone  found  near  Caradoc.  This  rock  forms  the  summits  or  edges, 
extending  from  E.  to  W.,  and  also  10°  to  15°  N.,  10°  to  W.,  or  15°  S. 
At  their  base  are  situated  the  rich  quicksilver  mines  of  Almaden.  The 
Silurian  fossils  are  found  in  dark-coloured  schists.  The  trilobites  are 
better  preserved ;  the  principal  are  :  Calymenetristani,  Asaphus  nobilis, 
Dalmania,  Phillipsia,  etc. 

1.  Guadarrama  Range, — Towards  the  S.  and  E.  slopes  carboniferous 
schists  are  met,  especially  near  Tamajon,  Valdesotos,  Retienda,  and 
Sierra  of  Burgos,  where  there  are  also  traces  of  vegetable  fossils  (ferns). 
Fossil  deposits  are  found  also  on  the  way  from  Hinarejos  (province  of 
Cuenca)  to  the  coal-mines  of  El  Vapor,  at  the  points  called  *  El  Castel- 
lano,'  and  '  El  Cerro  del  Hierro '  (the  Devonian  rocks  contain  iron  here 
as  well  as  in  the  Cantabric  range).  The  principal  fossils  are  :  Dalmania 
(ayphceus)  CaUiteles,  Spirifer,  Terebratula  guerangeri,  Leptama  mur~ 
chisoni,  etc  The  Guadarrama  range  crosses  obliquely  the  great  central 
plateau  of  Spain.  It  is  one  of  the  highest  and  largest  in  this  country. 
The  gneiss  and  other  crystalline  schists  that  compose  it  are  often  mixed 
with  granite.  These  represent  some  of  the  earliest  rocks  in  Spain. 
According  to  Sr.  Cas.  del  Prado,  the  crystalline  rocks  are  crowned,  to- 
wards the  east,  by  schisls  and  quartzite  rocks,  Silurian  in  all  likelihood. 
Bilobites  and  saccharoid  limestone  are  found.  The  strata  of  limestone 
which  flank  the  Sierra  have  been  by  oscillation  raised  and  again  distorted 
by  another,  posterior  to  the  miocene  period  ;  and  this  explains  the 
derangement  of  the  deposits  of  that  epoch.  The  ranges  that  frame  the 
Peninsula  to  north  and  south  are  the  most  modern. 


GEOLOGY.  XXU1 

The  Jurassic  rocks  are  not  generally  as  well  represented  as  the 
tertiary  deposits  and  limestone.  Those  in  the  province  of  Cuenca,  Va- 
lencia, of  Burgos,  etc.,  are  interesting.  A  very  rich  region  of  Jurassic 
fossils  is  situated  north  of  Molina ;  and  beyond  the  Silurian  axis  of 
,  Pardos,  Concha,  Anchuela  del  Campo,  Maranchon,  etc.,  are  worth  visit- 
ing. All  the  species  belong  to  the  lias,  and  none  indicate  the  presence 
of  Oxfordshire  rocks.  -  There  are  1 04  Jurassic  fossils  in  Spain.  The  lias 
and  Oxfordshire  stages  are  found  in  the  Jurassic  formation.  The  latter 
extend  over  the  east  and  south  portions  of  Spain — Catalonia,  Valencia, 
Malaga,  Bonda — and  lie  upon  red  sandstone. 

The  Cantabric  range,  or  prolongation  of  the  Pyrenean  system. — Here 
Devonian  rocks  contain  great  Palaeozoic  riches.  The  Devonian  period 
would  seem  to  have  been  accompanied  by  great  displacements  of  the  sea, 
for  the  deposits  are  often  of  sandstone  and  conglomerates.  Bed  sandstone, 
in  thick  masses,  seems  to  be  the  base  in  Spain  of  the  Devonian  system. 
They  are  impregnated  with  iron  ;  whence  the  establishments  of  Mieres  in 
Asturias,  and  of  Sabero  in  Leon.  The  sandstone  rocks  are  surmounted 
with  thick  calcareous  rocks,  which  form  those  sharp  indented  peaks  of  so 
picturesque  an  effect  in  the  plains  of  Castile.  The  road  from  Leon  to 
Oviedo  is  very  interesting  to  geologists.  The  districts  that  are  richer 
in  fossils  are  :  Sabero  in  Leon,  and  Ferrones  and  Aviles  in  Asturias.  Of 
these  three  there  are  about  seventy-seven  species  known.  They  are 
indicative  of  the  base  of  the  Devonian  formation,  and  constitute  the  German 
'Jungere  Grauwacke.'  The  upper  portion  of  this  series  is  composed 
of  red  limestone.  There  are  also  schists  near  Sabero  and  the  fossil 
Gardium  palmatum.  The  Devonian  rocks  extend  over  most  of  the  south 
portion  of  the  Cantabric  range,  in  the  province  of  Leon.  Its  fuller 
development  is  towards  the  north  region  of  Asturias,  and  lies  to  the  east 
under  the  carboniferous  strata.  The  longitudinal  axis  of  the  Pyrenees  is 
surrounded  by  cretaceous  deposits.  On  the  north  slopes,  from  Font- 
arahia,  across  San  Sebastian  to  Cape  Penas,  the  sea-coast  is  flanked  by 
limestone  cliffs,  the  strata  sink  under  the  sea,  rise  against  the  Cantabric 
axis,  not  without  irregularity  and  dislocations.  From  north  to  south  the 
cretaceous  deposits  extend  112  m.  These  abound  mostly  in  the  north 
of  Spain,  and  are  seldom  met  in  the  south,  except  near  Malaga.  The 
most  important  carboniferous  deposits  in  Spain  are  situated  on  the  two 
slopes  of  this  range,  especially  in  Asturias.  The  base  is  formed  by  thick 
limestone,  very  like  Devonian  rocks,  and  not  unlike  the  scar  limestone  in 
the  north  of  England.  Above  this  there  are  some  thin  banks  of  the  same 
alternately  found  with  the  first  coal  strata.  In  these  are  found  well- 
preserved  marine  fossils,  such  as  the  Productus  semireticulatus,  Producivz 
punctatv*,  Produetu*  cora,  Spirifer  mosquensis,  etc.,  and  the  Fusulina 
cylindrica.  The  fossil  plants  belong  to  the  ordinary  flora  found  in  most 
carboniferous  deposits.     Above  are  conglomerates  and  sandstone  mixed 


XXIV  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

with  clay  schists,  to  a  depth  of  2000  or  3000  metres.  There  are  more 
than  80  coal-beds.  The  stratification  is  irregular,  and  the  strata  often 
raised  up  to  a  vertical  position.  The  Nalon  traverses  the  richest  por- 
tion. The  limestone,  which  forms  the  base,  rises  to  the  summits  of  the 
Cantahric  or  Asturian  range,  and  constitutes  the  hills  of  Cabrales, 
Covadonga,  the  picachos  (or  peaks)  de  Europa,  as  far  as  the  sea,  near 
Ribadesella,  then  continues  to  the  east  by  the  province  of  Santander  and 
Palencia.  According  to  several  distinguished  geologists  (Mr.  Forbes,  etc), 
Ireland  must  have  been  once  joined,  or  very  nearly  so,  to  Spain,  and  to 
that  cause  is  ascribed  the  similarity  between  portions  of  the  flora  and 
fauna  of  these  two  countries. 

Heights  of  the  Principal  Ranges. 

Spanish  PyTenees,  East. 

Peak  Nethou,  11,168  ft. 
Monte  Perdido,  10,994  ft. 
La  Maladetta,  10,866  ft. 

Pass  d'oo,  between  valleys  of  Larbouste  and  de  Lassera  (Venasque),  9843  ft. 
Pass  of  Bielsa,  between  valleys  of  Neste  d'Hune  (Aragon),  and  of  Puer« 
tolas,  8396  ft. 

Spanish  Pyrenees,  West,  or  Cantab ric  [Asturian)  Range. 

Peiia  de  Penaranda  (Leon),  11,031  ft.  (?) 

Peak  of  Penamerata,  9450  ft. 

Cum  de  Poyales  (Santander),  4559  ft. 

Sierra  Morena. 
Puerto  del  Rey  (Prov.  of  Jaen),  2251  (auth.  Betancourt). 

Guadarrama. 

Penalara  (Segovia),  8240  (auth.  Bauza). 

Monte  del  Leon  de  los  2  Castillas  (Prov.  of  Madrid),  4657. 

Cum  de  Mondalindo  (Prov.  Guadalajara),  6045  (auth.  Bauza). 

Peak  of  Sierra  Cebollera  (Prov.  Soria),  6929  (auth.  Conde  de  Villa  Fuentes). 

Siete  Picos  (Segovia),  7298  (auth.  Bauza). 

Sierra  Nevada. 

Mula  Hacen  (Granada)  11,703  ft. 
Picacho  de  la  Veleta  (Granada),  11,441  ft. 
Cerro  de  la  Alcazaba,  11,356  ft. 
Sierra  Gador,  7130  ft. 

Lower  line  of  snow  on  Sierra  Nevada  (15th  August  1804),  9064  ft.  (auth. 
R.  Clemente. 

Penas  Blancas,  7605  ft. 

For  other  heights  of  Sierra  Nevada  see  page  202. 
See  also  for  a  more  ample  list  of  heights,  that  published  about  1831  by  the  Socie'te'  de  Geo- 
graphic of  Paris,  in  '  Orologie  Francaise   ;  also  the  figures  given  by  Mr.  Chas.  Packe. 


Bilbao,  73  ft. 
Burgos,  2873  ft. 
Escorial,  3683  ft. 
Granada,  2681  ft. 


Height  of  some  Cities. 

Gibraltar  (Rock),  294  ft. 
Jerez,  571  ft. 
Madrid,  2384  ft. 
Murcia,  447  ft 


Segovia  (Castle),  2290.  ir. 
Valencia,  95  ft. 
Zaragoza,  890,  ft. 


MINES  XXV 

Books  of  Reference, — -J.  B.  Carrasco's  '  Geografia  general  de  Espana  '  (1861), 
contains  a  general  account  of  the  geology  of  the  country.  *  Spain,'  in  Sampson 
Low's  *  Foreign  Countries '  gives  also  a  good  brief  sketch  of  the  subject.  The 
geologist  will  find  in  the  Boletin  and  Memoires  of  the  '  Comision  del  Mapa 
Geologico  de  Espana,'  published  in  yearly  volumes,  sketch  maps  and  careful 
descriptions  of  the  geology  of  most  of  the  provinces,  with  a  great  deal  of  useful 
topographical  information.  Many  of  these  can  be  bought  separately.  The  best 
Geological  Map  of  Spain  is  that  of  Botella  (Madrid,  1880).  On  the  geology 
of  Galicia  and  the  Asturias  a  splendid  work  has  been  published  by  M.  Charles 
Barrois  (Lille,  1882).  On  the  geology  of  the  Pyrenees  there  are  numerous 
papers,  and  a  geological  map  of  the  Basque  country  in  the  '  Bulletins  of  the 
Societe*  Ramond  V.Y.'  (Bagneres  de  Bigorre),  and  in  the  '  Bulletins  of  the 
Societe*  Geologique  de  France,'  by  P.  W.  Stuart  Menteath. 

The  above  are  new  and  reliable  books  of  reference ;  but  there  are  older 
works  which,  if  somewhat  behind  recent  investigations,  the  student  may  pro- 
fitably consult.     The  following  may  be  mentioned  : — 

1.  VerneuiVs  'Coup  d'oeil  sur  la  Constitution  geologique  de  plusieurs 
Provinces  de  l'Espagne '  (Paris,  1853).  M.  Verneuil  was  a  collaborates  with 
Sir  Roderick  Murchison,  and  his  large  and  complete  geological  map  of  Spain  is 
still  of  great  value. 

2.  Ezquerra  del  Bayo:  'On  the  Geology  of  Spain,'  Quarterly  Journal,  vol. 
vi.,  1850.  By  the  same  author,  '  Estructura  Geologica  de  Espana,'  Memorias 
de  la  Real  Academia  de  Ciencias  de  Madrid,  1 850,  vol.  ix. 

3.  The  '  Memoirs  of  the  Barcelona  and  Madrid  Academy  of  Sciences  ; '  the 
'  Dictionaries '  of  Madoz  and  MiAano,  etc. 

4.  Hausmann :  *  De  Hispanize  Constitutione  Geognostica  Dissertatio ' 
(Gottingen,  1829) ;  also  his  papers '  Sur  la  Constitution  Geologique  de  l'Espagne ' 
in  the  Annales  des  Mines,  2d  series,  vol.  iii.,  p.  375. 

5.  Wilkomnfs  '  Die  Strand,'  etc.,  on  the  Steppes  of  the  Peninsula  (Leipzig, 
1852)  contains  a  map  which  botanists  may  also  find  useful. 


Mines. 

The  mining  wealth  of  Spain  has  been  always  far  famed.  The  Phoe- 
nicians were  the  first  people  who  worked  the  exhaustless  mines  of 
Tarshish  (Andalusia),  and  the  accounts  of  writers  such  as  Strabo  (book 
iii.),  Ovid,  Siculus,  Justin,  Pliny,  etc.,  do  but  confirm,  if  it  were  needful, 
the  descriptions  of  the  Spanish  mines  which  we  find  in  Scripture 
(I  Mace  viii.  3  ;  1  Kings  x.  21  ;  Jer.  x.  9,  etc.)  Love  of  gold  has  been 
often,  almost  always,  the  prime  mover  of  all  projects  of  conquest,  war, 
and  discovery,  and  Spain  was  the  Peru  of  the  Phoenicians  and  Romans. 
When  America  was  discovered,  a  narrow  policy  prohibited  the  working 
of  the  Spanish  mines,  and  exclusively  favoured  those  of  the  New  World. 
The  quicksilver  mines  of  Almaden  were  exempted,  because  they  sent  to 
Mexico  yearly  5000  to  6000  quintals  of  ore  (quintal  =^  10j  lbs.),  necea- 


XXVI  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

sary  for  the  extraction  of  the  precious  metals.  Government  had  the 
monopoly  of  mines  until  1820,  when  it  ceased.  The  precious  metals 
imported  by  the  Government  from  America  between  1492  and  1803 
amounted  to  the  value  of  ninety  millions  of  dollars,  according  to 
Humboldt  and  Ustariz.  The  consequent  stimulus  given  to  the  mining 
interest  was  soon  felt.  Thus,  before  1820,  the  Koyal  ojlcinasonly  pro- 
duced 30,000  to  40,000  quintals  a-year.  In  1823  the  produce  rose  to 
500,000  quintals.  In  1824  the  mining  legislation  was  assimilated  to 
that  of  France.  In  1826  there  were  more  than  3500  mines  being 
worked  in  the  Sierras  of  Gadar  and  Lagar  alone,  and  in  1827  the  produce 
exceeded  800,000  quintals.  Mining  schools  (Escuelas  de  Mitiae)  were 
established  at  Almaden  and  Madrid.  Several  young  men  were  sent  to 
study  the  most  approved  systems  at  Freyberg,  in  Saxony,  etc.  Foreign 
capitalists  have  undertaken  the  working  la  esplotacion  of  several  of  the 
richest  mines  ;  foreign  machinery,  worked  by  foreign  miners,  has  been 
introduced,  and  the  wealth  derived  has  been  very  considerable.  The 
mining  fever  or  mania  commenced  to  rage  here  about  1825,  just  when  it 
was  in  the  wane  in  England.  Many,  most  indeed,  of  the  managers  of 
the  companies  formed  in  the  outset  were  ignorant,  rash,  over-confident, 
and  in  many  cases  dishonourable.  Companies  became  hotbeds  of  law- 
suits and  compromises,  and,  like  the  augurs  of  old,  two  managers  could 
not  meet  each  other  without  a  laugh.  This  mania  has  subsided  into  a 
more  business-like  system,  and  the  lesson  has  been  profitable  to  all.  The 
importation  of  Spanish  ores  to  England  is  very  considerable.  Almost  all 
the  mercury  supplied  to  England  is  derived  from  Spain — from  the  great 
Almaden  deposits. 

Although  Spain  now  exports  minerals  to  a  very  large  and  daily 
increasing  amount,  the  production  might  be  enormously  enhanced 
were  tramways  and  roads  established.  The  improved  processes  for 
smelting,  etc.,  will  also  augment  the  produce.  Thus  recently  the  Spanish 
homo  economico  (economical  furnace)  has  been  substituted  for  the  slag 
hearth,  etc. ;  by  this  a  better  produce  of  lead  is  obtained  from  the  refuse 
products  of  the  mines.  Again,  a  great  deal  of  lead  and  silver  is  saved 
by  Pattinson's  desilvering  process ;  and  "when  Mr.  Burnett  applied  suc- 
cessfully the  process  introduced  by  Mr.  Richardson  at  Blaydon  (hard  lead 
converted  into  soft  lead  by  calcining)  to  the  softening  of  Spanish  lead, 
this  discovery  led  to  a  very  extensive  trade  between  England  and  Spain. 
The  ores  on  the  east  coast  of  Spain  are  smelted  with  Newcastle  coal,  and 
the  hard  lead  is  brought  to  England  to  be  there  softened  and  refined. 
Our  annual  imports  are  aboat  25,000  tons,  mostly  from  Linares.  This 
Linares  lead  contains  but  a  small  quantity  of  silver,  but  many  Spanish 
lead  mines  are  exceptionally  argentiferous.  There  is  also  importation 
into  England  from  Spain  of.  cupreous  pyrites,  used  by  alkali  makers  for 
the  manufacture  of  sulphuric  acid. 


MINES. 


XXV11 


In  1860  there  were  in  Spain  1988  productive  mines — that  is,  that 
were  worked — occupying  an  area  of  220,389,352  square  metres.  There 
were  3294  pertenenciaa,  or  rights  of  mining  properties.  28,554  work- 
men employed,  and  thirty-nine  steam-engines.     The  produce  was  : — 


1 

Mineral. 

Principal 
Mines. 

Metric 
Quintals. 

Mineral. 

Principal 
Mines. 

Metric 
Quintals. 

Iron    .     .     . 
Lead  .    .    . 
Silver .     .     . 
Copper    .     . 
Lignite    .     . 
Pit-coal  .     . 
Sulphur  .    . 

Almeria 

Almeria 

Guadalajara 

Huelva 

Guipuzcoa 

Oviedo 

Murcia 

x,755,<«9 
3,168,189 

42,300 
1,460,034 

X75,309 

3,"7,73* 
930,450 

Barilla    .    . 
Antimony    . 
Zinc    .    .     . 
Quicksilver . 

Asphalte .     . 
Manganese . 

Madrid 

Zamora 

Santander 

Oviedo 

Alava 

Huelva 

175,573 

600 

1,088,023 

80,403 

6, 380 

288,638 

How  much  these  figures  have  altered  in  thirty-five  years  may  he 
gathered  from  the  fact  that  the  Rio  Tinto  mines,  near  Huelva,  alone 
raise  over  a  million  tons  of  cupreous  pyrites  in  the  year  ;  in  1896  the 
export  of  iron  ore  from  Bilbao  was  4,716,965  tons;  while  the  produce 
of  quicksilver  at  Almaden  during  the  year  1884  amounted  to  43,100 
frascoes,  or  1,487,266  kilogrammes.  (This  exceeds  the  production  of 
the  famous  Calif ornian  mines  by  over  11,000  frascoes.  Since  1884  the 
production  has  remained  almost  stationary.) 

Hellin  produces  a  variable  quantity — sometimes  up  to  1000  tons 
per  annum  —  of  sulphur.  Salt,  a  great  monopoly,  amounts  to 
3,916,919*02  quintals,  value  of  28,000,000  pes.  The  total  revenue 
of  the  Government  from  its  own  mines,  and  contributions  from  others, 
amounts  to  about  35,000,000  pes. 

The  miner  and  mineralogist  should  visit  principally  the  mines  oi 
Almaden,  Linares,  Rio  Tinto,  Logrosan,  the  salt  pans  of  Minglanilla,  the 
coal-fields  of  Gijon,  and  marble  quarries  of  Granada  and  MacaeL  The 
best  season  is  spring  and  summer.  An  order  from  the  Ministerio  de 
Fomento  will  be  requisite  to  visit  the  Government  establishments.  The 
collection  at  the  Madrid  Museo  de  Historia  Natural  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  Europe,  and  that  of  the  Escuela  de  Minas  at  Madrid  will  not  fail  to 
interest  mineralogists. 

Books  of  Reference. — •  The  Anales  de  Minas.' 

Sullivan  and  O'Reilly :  '  On  the  Province  of  Santander.'     London,  1863. 

GoUschmann:  « Bergbaukunst.,     Leipzig,  1866. 

Botella :  '  Descripcion   Geologica   Minera  de  las  Provincias  de  Murcia  of 
Albacete.'     Madrid,  1868. 

Von  Groddeck:  '  Lagerstatten  der  Erze.'     Leipzig,  1879. 

/.  A.  Phillips:  'Ore  Deposits.'    London,  1884. 

Nordenstroni :  '  Berg  und  Huttenmcenische  Zeitung.'     1886- 1887. 
P,    W.   Stuart  Menteath:    '  Sur  les  gisements  metalliferes   des   Pyrenees 
Occidentals. '      Bulletin  Soc.    Geol.,    France,    1886.     Also   numerous   later 
papers  on  the  mines  and  geology  of  Navarre  and  Guipuzcoa. 


XXV111  GENERAL   INFORMATION 

The  Annual  Commercial  and  Consular  Reports  for  Spain.     (London.) 

Various  papers  in  the  Revista  Minera  and  in  the  '  Boletin  de  la  Comision 
del  Mapa  Geologico  de  Espaiia.' 

The  older  works  which  may  be  consulted,  but  which  need  continual  correc- 
tion by  reference  to  recent  researches  and  operations,  are  : — 

Bowles:  'Natural  History  of  Spain.* 

Hoppensack :   *  Carte  des  Filons  d'Almaden.' 

C.  de  Prado:  *  Minas  de  Almaden'  (Madrid,  1846). 

J.  E.  de  Bayo:  'Apuntes,'  etc. 

Leplay :  *  Observations  sur  PHistoire  Nat.  et  la  Richesse  Minerale  de 
PEspagne'  (Paris,  1834). 

Cantalapiedra :  '  Guia  del  Minero.' 

The  existence  of  gold  mines  in  Spain  is  an  old  and  favourite  dream  with 
Spaniards.  Besides  the  supposed  California  said  to  be  hidden  in  the  barrancos 
near  Granada  there  are  other  portions  of  the  Peninsula  that  have  attracted 
attention.  See  many  papers  in  the  Revista  Minera  by  Maestre,  Naranjo  y 
Gaza,  etc.;  also  Viadera's  'Terrenos  auriferos  de  la  Prov.  de  Leon.'  See  also 
Burat's  'Sur  la  Terrain  metallifere  de  PEspagne,'  in  the  Institute  1846. 


Climate. 

The  climate  of  Spain  has  not  been  as  yet  sufficiently  studied.  It  is 
superior  in  all  respects  to  that  of  Italy,  being  more  southern,  more 
sheltered  from  the  north  winds  by  the  elevated  sierras  running  east  and 
west,  and  characterised  by  a  more  bracing,  genial  atmosphere.  If  we 
classify  the  more  important  medical  stations  according  to  the  prevalent 
atmospheric  influence,  we  shall  divide  Spain  into  three  main  zones. 

1.  Exciting  climates,  such  as  those  of  Nice,  Montpellier,  Florence, 
Naples — in  Spain,  Alicante,  Malaga,  Valencia,  Cadiz,  Seville. 

2.  Sedative,  such  as  Pau,  Rome,  Arcachon,  etc — Vigo,  Granada, 
Barcelona. 

3.  Relaxing,  such  as  Madeira,  Pisa,  etc. —  Oviedo,  Gijon  and  all  the 
north-west  coast. 

Thermometrical  and  barometrical  observations  are  no  doubt  very 
reliable  indicators  of  the  climate,  but  statistics  in  Spain  are  not  sufficiently 
advanced  to  allow  us  to  gather  any  series  of  data.  Latitude,  again,  is  not 
always  the  only  rule  to  go  by.  Altitude,  situation,  and  soil,  are  so 
many  considerations  to  which  attention  must  be  drawn  before  a  medical 
station  be  decided.  The  warm,  sunny,  still  air  that  is  constantly  breathed 
in  Spain  ;  the  pure  crystalline  water  that  is  drunk  ;  the  cloudless,  deep- 
blue  sky  ;  the  wholesome  dry  wines,  without  acidity  ;  the  quiet  life  that 
is  usually  led  ;  all  contribute  most  powerfully  to  bring  relief — often  to 
cure. 

The  climate  of  Spain  will  benefit  more  generally  patients  suffering 


CLIMATE. 


XXIX 


from  consumption,  bronchitis,  and  dyspepsia.  The  selection  of  a  place  of 
residence  is  most  important,  as  mistakes  arising  from  hasty  decisions,  or 
an  imperfect  acquaintance  with  the  peculiarities  of  each,  bring  with  them 
fatal  consequences.  We  subjoin  a  list  of  the  best  works  to  consult  on 
the  matter. 

Mortality  Table,  showing  the  proportion  of  deaths  to  the  number  of 
the  population  in  some  of  the  principal  medical  stations : — 


In  London 

I  in  40  dies  annually. 

In  Nice              ] 

[  in  31 

dies 

annually. 

Paris 

1  „  32          „ 

Pau                1 

r  »  45 

if 

Vienna 

1  „  224 

Madrid          ] 

[  „  26 

»* 

Rome 

1  „  25 

Malaga          ] 

1  „  25 

>t 

Naples 

1  „  28 

Barcelona      1 

[  „  29 

»» 

Brussels 

1  „  29 

Valencia        ] 

1  „  3i 

>» 

Berlin 

1  »  34 

Alicante        1 

[  „  26 

>» 

Mean  Temperature  of  some  of  the  principal  medical  stations. 


Med.  Stations. 

Winter. 

Spring. 

Summer. 

Autumn. 

Fahr. 

Fahr 

Fahr. 

Fahr. 

Torquay     . 

44 

50 

6l 

53 

Pau  . 

4i 

54 

70 

37 

Rome 

49 

57 

72 

63 

Nice . 

47 

56 

72 

6l 

Madeira     . 

60 

62 

69 

67 

Malaga 

55 

68 

80 

61 

The  annual  amount  of  rain  at — 


Nice        is     26  inches 

Torquay    is     28  inches 

Madeira   „     29     ,, 

Malaga     „      15J     „ 

Rome       ,,     29     ,, 

Pau          ,,     43      „ 

London  is 

27  inches. 

Invalids  should  undertake  the  journey  to  Spain  about  the  middle  of 
September,  at  that  season  when  atmospheric  changes  become  more 
sensible  in  England,  and  when  acclimatisation  in  so  different  a  latitude  h 
more  easily  effected,,  the  great  summer  heat  having  then  considerably 
subsided  in  many  points.  After  a  winter's  residence  in  a  Spanish 
medical  station,  we  may  be  permitted  to  recommend,  on  good  authority, 
to  avoid  by  all  means  a  sudden  change  by  a  hasty  and  untimely  return 
to  England,  or  any  other  country  with  a  similar  climate.  The  transition 
might  be  made  gradually  "by  residences  at  Seville,  Granada,  or  Barcelona, 
or  at  Nice,  Pau,  or  Menton. 

The  best  authorities  on  the  climate  of  Spain  are  the  following : — 


XXX  GENERAL    INFORMATION. 

1  Change  of  Climate,  etc,  with  an  Account  of  the  most  eligible  Places 
of  Residence  for  Invalids  in  Spain,  Portugal,  Algeria,  etc,' 
By  D.  J.  T.  Francis,  MJ>. ;  London,  1853. 

'  Du  Climat  de  l'Espagne  sous  le  Rapport  MeMieal,'  pat 
le  Docteur  E.  Cazenave  {an  Eaux  Bonnes  physician)  ; 
Paris,  1863. 

1  Spain  and  its  Climates,'  by  Edwin  Lee,  Esq. ;  London 
1806. 

1  Efemerides  Baroru&rico-Midicas-MatritenseB,'  by  Drs. 
Navarrete,  etc.  See  also  '  Memories  de  la  Real  Academia- 
M  cdica-Matritense.' 

1  Topografia  Me'dica,'  etc.,  by  Dr.  V.  Martinez  y  Montes  ; 
4to.  Malaga,  1852.  Very  valuable  to  the  invalid  who 
selects  Malaga. 

Minauo's  '  Diccionario  de  Espafia  y  Portugal,'  Madoz's 
'  Diccionario,'  and  the  '  ABo  Clinico  de  Cirugia,'  etc.,  contain 
weather- tables,  which  may  he  consulted. 

Meteorological  observations  are  made  all  over  Spain 
with  great  care  and  intelligence,  and  sent  by  telegraph 
daily  from  the  different  stations  to  the  central  one,  the 
Royal  Observatory  at  Madrid,  and  published  in  the  official 
'  Qaceta,' 

Meteorology  is  not  a  novel  science  in  Spain.     Those 

curious  to  know  more  of  this  matter,  and  become  acquainted 

with  some  now  almost-forgotten  Spanish  meteorologists  (see 

Ctot.  Fthr.      Salve,  Pifialver,  Garrido,  etc),  may  consult  the  interesting 

'  Estudios  Meteorologicos  del   Siglo  XVIII.,'  by  Manuel  Rico  Sinovas  ; 

Madrid,  1858. 

The  accompanying  diagram  shows  ihe  corresponding  degrees  or  the  Centigrade  add  Fahrenheit 
Thermometers.    C  Centigrade ;  F.  Fahrenheit. 

Mineral  Springs  and  Sea-bathing. 
'  Of  all  the  countries  in  Europe,  Spain  is  the  richest  in  mineral 
springs.'  Such  is  Dr.  Cazenave's  opinion,  and  that  of  every  competent 
person  who  has  studied  the  subject ;  and  when  communications  are 
rendered  more  easy,  and  the  accommodation  improved,  the  celebrated 
springs  of  Germany  and  France  will  meet  with  considerable  competition. 
There  are  upwards  of  £000  springs — that  is,  £32  more  than  in  France. 
Of  these,  eighty  only  are  placed  under  a  medical  inspector.  The  bathing 
eatabhcimieiLtm  are,  generally  speaking,  defective,  and  the  comforts  attend- 
ing a  cure  made  at  Luchou,  Vichy,  Carlsbad,  Swalbach,  etc,  are  totally 
waziting  here.  But  the  efficacy  of  the  water,  and  that  is  the  principal 
object  in  view,  is  very  great.      The  Romans  and  Moors,  Doth  great 


MINERAL  SPRINGS.  XXXI 

bathers,  and  who  would  not,  therefore,  have  understood  the  Spanish 
advice,  'De  los  cuarenta  arriba,  no  te  mojes  la  barriga,'  knew  many 
springs  and  restored  to  them  ;  and  they  have  left  vestiges  of  their  pre- 
ference. Thus,  Alhama,  a  word  applied  to  many  springs,  is  the  Arab 
1  Al  htimiin'  (Alhama  de  Aragon,  Alhama  de  Granada);  and  Caldas, 
from  the  Roman  Calidas9  is  found  in  others,  '  Caldas  de  Monbuy,  Caldas 
de  Reyes,  Caldetas,  etc.  The  best  season  to  go  to  the  Banos  is  June  to 
September.  The  establishments  belong  either  to  the  State,  private 
individuals,  or  companies.  There  is  usually  great  cleanliness,  and  whole- 
some food  is  to  be  expected. 

A  full  and  descriptive  list  of  the  baths  and  mineral  waters  is  given 
in  the  '  Quia  Oficial  de  Espana '  (see  latest  edition).  The  list  numbers 
171  establishments.  Due  care  should  be  taken  in  any  selection.  See 
also  a  list  at  the  beginning  of  the  '  Quia  Oficial  de  los  Ferro-Carriles/ 

Sea-bathing  can  be  enjoyed  during  summer  and  autumn  on  the  N.W. 
coasts  of  Spain,  at  Qijon,  Santander,  Bilbao  (Portugalete),  and  Zarauz,  a 
wild  little  Guipuzcoan  hamlet  near  San  Sebastian.  The  latter  is  the 
most  fashionable  sea-side  resort  in  Spain.  On  the  shores  of  the  Medi- 
terranean there  is  excellent  sea-bathing  at  Valencia,  Malaga,  Alicante, 
and  Barcelona.  The  most  fashionable  is  the  CabaOal  of  Valencia.  More 
south,  the  bathing  and  bathing  estableoimiento  of  Cadiz  will  tempt 
amateurs.  There  are,  of  course,  differences  in  the  temperature,  mineral 
composition,  etc.,  of  the  two  seas.  The  Mediterranean  waters  are  warmer, 
less  agitated,  and  contain  a  greater  proportion  of  magnesium,  etc.,  salts 
(2*25  more),  etc,  than  the  Atlantic.  The  wave  is  often  imperceptible 
on  the  Mediterranean  coasts ;  and  swimmers  have  never  any  distance  to 
go  to  meet  the  open  sea.  The  Mediterranean  water  acts,  also,  as  a 
sedative,  and  must  be  preferred  by  certain  temperaments,  weak  con- 
stitutions ;  whilst  the  Atlantic  is  exciting,  produces  great  and  sudden 
reaction,  and  its  use  requires  especial  constitutions.  There  are  no 
bathing-machines,  but  thatched  huts,  tents,  or  barraques,  made  of  boards, 
The  heat  during  summer  at  Alicante  and  Malaga  is  too  intense  to  allow 
sea-bathing  to  be  beneficial.  Autumn  would  be  a  more  appropriate 
season. 

Botany 

As  a  science,  has  been  very  much  neglected  in  Spain,  though  the  number 
of  publications  on  some  branches  is  very  great.  The  Spaniard  is  not 
fond  of  gardens,  in  our  sense  of  the  word,  and  jardines  are  more  seldom 
heard  and  seen  than  huertas  (huertos  also,  from  Junius),  i  orchards.'  That 
there  were  Botanical  Gardens  in  the  time  of  the  Moors  there  is  little 
doubt,  and  that  of  King  Nasr,  at  Cadiz,  under  the  direction  of  the  botanist 
Al  Shafrah,  is  mentioned  more  than  once.  Medicine,  as  usual,  introduced 
the  establishment  of  Botanical  Gardens,  and  Doctor  Laguna,  in  1555,  in 


XXX11  GENERAL   INFORMATION. 

his  translation  of  Dioscoridesj  which  he  dedicated  to  Philip  II.,  entreata 
the  king  to  found  one,  which  he  curiously  says  would  turn  to  the  benefit 
of  His  Majesty's  health,  besides  encouraging  '  la  disciplina  herbaria.' 
This  request  was  acceded  to,  and  a  portion  of  the  Aranjuez  gardens  was 
allotted  to  that  object.  Subsequently  were  formed  the  private  gardens 
of  Simou  Tovar  (1595),  Cortavilla,  and  Jaime  Salvador,  who,  at  the  end 
ol  the  1 7  th  century  formed  a  most  remarkable  one  at  San  Juan  d'Espe", 
on  the  banks  of  the  Llobregat,  and  whose  herbary  (at  Barcelona)  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting,  and  contains  a  goodly  collection  of  plants  sent  to 
him  by  his  friends  Tournefort,  Boerhaave,  Jussieu,  etc.,  with  the  lattei 
of  whom  he  botanised  in  Spain.  A  Botanical  Garden  was  established  at 
Seville  in  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  That  established  at 
Madrid  by  Quer,  1755,  was  augmented  by  the  addition  of  the  French 
botanist  Rigueur's  collection.  The  present  one  was  founded  by  Charles 
III.,  in  1774.  Several  were  subsequently  formed,  and  are  still  kept  up, 
though  rather  neglected  and  weedy.  The  principal  are  at  Madrid,  Val- 
encia, Barcelona.  There  is  a  School  of  Forestry  near  the  Escorial, 
with  Herbarium,  gardens,  and  all  appliances  for  forest  culture  and 
engineering.  The  botany  of  Spain,  although  imperfectly  known,  is  very 
varied  and  rich,  the  range  extending  over  all  the  zones  of  vegetation 
known,  from  the  fungus,  Uredo  nivalis,  found  under  the  glaciers  of  the 
Pyrenees,  to  tropical  plants,  such  as  the  sugar-cane,  banana,  tobacco,  etc. 
The  colour  of  the  flowers  in  Spain  is  very  rich,  deep,  especially  the  reds 
and  yellows.  The  odour,  when  the  plant  is  not  watered,  is  delicate  and 
subtle,  but  of  no  great  intensity ;  the  size  enormous,  when  properly 
cultivated  on  irrigated  ground ;  but  this  at  the  expense  of  odour,  and,  in 
fruits,  of  savour.  At  such  heights  even  as  8950  to  12,762  ft.  (Mula- 
hacen, '  Granada  *),  the  flora  is  not  destitute  of  interest.  The  cryptogam- 
ous  plants  are  numerous,  and  many  quite  novel.  The  Alpujarras'  herbal 
is  one  of  the  richest  in  Europe,  and  its  variety  most  striking  as  one 
ascends,  witnessing  in  a  few  hours  all  the  phases  of  vegetation,  and  all 
the  climates.  At  elevations  varying  from  7000  to  9000  ft.  we  find  the 
juniper,  brushwood,  Potentilla  nivalis,  varieties  of  saxifrage,  firs  and 
birch-trees.  From  6000  to  7000  ft.  the  coniferous,  leguminous,  rosace- 
ous, and  cyperaceous  plants  are  found,  perennials  of  great  variety,  but 
annuals  more  especially,  which  do  not  grow  much  above  this  height. 
From  3000  to  6000  ft.  the  vine  ceases  to  ripen.  But  we  find  apple, 
pear,  and  walnut  trees,  barley  and  oats.  The  zone  comprised  between  1 200 
and  3000  ft.  contains  oak  forests,  chestnuts,  beech,  cereals.  At  this 
elevation  the  vine  and  maize  begin  to  cease  in  the  northern  regions,  but 
not  in  the  central,  southern,  and  eastern  latitudes  ;  and  the  olive  and  vine 
grow  and  ripen  admirably  about  the  plateaux  of  Toledo,  Madrid,  etc. 
(2412  ft.  and  more  above  the  sea).  From  1000tol200ft.  is  the  region 
of  all  cruciferous  and  umbelliferous  plants — the  paJm,  sugar-cane,  the 


BOTANY.  XXXlll 

orange,  goyave,  wild  geraniums,  wild  crocuses,  jonquils,  rhododendrons, 
the  palinito  (Chamcerops  humilis),  etc.  The  botanist  should  visit  care- 
fully the  Sierras,  about  Cordova,  where  Dr.  Amor  y  Mayor  has  collected 
some  1500  phanerogamous  and  cryptogamous  varieties.  The  Sierras 
Morena  and  de  Cuenca  have  been  also  little  visited.  The  Pinares  of  Val- 
sain,  the  forests  of  Cuenca,  and  those  of  the  Cantabric  range  are  very  fine. 
The  zones  may  be  thus  classified  :  the  Northern,  or  Cantabric,  which  offers 
plants  that  belong  to  temperate  Europe  ;  the  Central  region  is  a  transition 
between  the  former  and  that  of  most  Mediterranean  continents  within 
the  same  latitude  ;  the  Eastern,  which  is  essentially  Mediterranean  ;  and 
the  Southern,  that  bears  an  African  character  ;  to  which  may  be  added 
the  Western  regions,  very  moist,  and  less  warm  than  the  Central  and 
Eastern  portions.  Trees  once  abounded  everywhere  :  the  causes  of  their 
scarcity  may  be  sought,  not  only  in  the  despotism  of  the  Mesta  Monopolist 
Company  of  sheep-owners,  whose  flocks  prevented  plantations,  but  in  the 
'  Ordenanzas  de  if  ontes/  a  law  by  which  every  two  trees  out  of  five  that 
were  planted  belonged  by  right  to  the  crown.  The  amount  of  timber  in 
Spain  is  detailed  in  Mariana's  'De  regis  Institutione  ;'  Toledo,  1699, 
4to,  p.  332,  very  scarce. 

There  are  several  good  Spanish  herbaries  which  botanists  may  consult 
Sherard's,  kept  at  Oxford,  contains  plants  sent  from  Spain  by  Salvador. 
The  Linnaean  Society  of  London  possesses  that  of  Linnaeus,  which  includes 
a  large  number  of  plants  collected  in  Spain  by  Lceffling  and  Alstroemer. 
In  the  British  Museum  may  be  seen  part  of  the  very  complete  Spanish, 
Peruvian,  Chilian,  and  Philippine  herbary  of  Pavon,  Mutes,  and  Ruiz  ; 
many  portions  from  that  of  Sess6  y  Mocino.  The  Madrid  Botanical 
Garden  possesses  some  curious  ones  of  Pavon,  Ruiz,  Sesse*,  and  other  early 
Spanish  botanists,  of  Haenke  (South  American  plants),  etc.  The 
Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  of  Barcelona  contains  portions  of  Pavon's 
herbary.  In  the  School  of  Pharmacy,  at  Madrid,  there  is  an  interesting 
Galician  herbary,  collected  by  Pourret.  We  may  also  mention,  in  Cadiz, 
that  of  Cabrera,  belonging  to  Sr.  Chape  ;  at  Malaga,  of  Sr.  Prolongo  and 
Haenseler ;  at  Mahon,  of  Sr.  Hernandez  ;  in  Madrid,  of  Sr.  Graells,  of 
Cutanda,  and  of  Sr.  Solis  ;  in  Granada,  of  Sr.  Aneo  y  Cainpo  ;  in  Seville, 
that  of  the  University.  In  the  Escorial  Library,  the  one  which  is 
supposed  erroneously  to  be  Mexican,  and  formed  by  Hernandez,  Philip 
11  's  doctor,  proceeded  in  reality  from  Mendoza's  Library,  and  the  plants 
are  European.  It  is  placed  in  the  Upper  Library.  In  the  lower  one 
there  is  a  Spanish  herbary,  raised  by  Lagasca,  and  shown  to  Tournefort 
when  he  visited  Spain  in  1688.  In  the  Madrid  Academy  of  History 
there  is  a  small  one  of  Fernandez  Navarrete,  who  began  a  Spanish  flora 
before  Quer. 

Gardens. — The  public  flower-gardens,  properly  so  called,  are  not  very 
good,  but  flowers  are  grown  largely  for  sale  and  are  cheap.     The  roses 


XXXIV  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

and  daveles  (pinks)  are  particularly  abundant  and  in  great  variety.  The 
best  public  gardens  are  those  of  Barcelona  and  Valencia,  together  with  the 
gtwwi-public  grounds  of  the  San  Telmo  palace  at  Seville  and  the  royal  de- 
mesnes at  La  Granja  and  Aranjuez.  The  latter  are  in  the  formal  Italian 
style,  introduced  with  the  cinquecento  fashion,  and  adopted  by  Charles 
V.,  Philip  II.,  etc.  ;  and  which  the  pseudo  Louis-Quatorzised  Philip  V. 
encouraged  considerably.  The  finest  private  gardens  are  about  Valencia, 
Barcelona,  and  in  Andalusia  ;  and  the  best  gardeners  are  all  Valencianos. 

Books  of  Reference. — 'Curso  de  Botanica,'  etc.,  by  Dr.  Miguel  Colmeiro  ! 
Madrid,  Callega ;  3  vols.  1854;  with  woodcuts.  The  text  is  mostly  taken 
from  French  authors  ;  but  the  organologies!  vocabulary  (with  the  Spanish 
equivalents  for  botanical  terms),  and  his  notes  on  the  Spanish  methods  introduced 
by  Rayo  in  1632,  'Rivinos,'  etc.,  as  well  as  on  botanical  works,  are  useful ; 
and  his  *  Cuadro  de  las  Familias  Naturales '  will  be  of  some  use  to  those 
botanising  in  Spain. 

Boissier's  'Voyage  Botanique  dans  le  Midi  de  l'Espagne,'  Paris,  1839-45  ; 
'Catalogo  Met6dico  de  Plantas  Observadag  en  Cataluna,'  etc.,  by  Colmeiro  ; 
Madrid,  1846,  1  vol. ;  useful  for  the  Catalonian  Flora  and  local  nomenclature. 
A  sketch  of  the  history  of  Spanish  botany  may  be  found  in  same  author's 
1  Lusago  Historio,'  etc.  ;  Barcelona,  1842  ;  and  a  paper  on  the  formation  of  a 
Spanish  flora  by  same,  in  Italian,  'Principi  che  devono  regolare  una  Flora,' 
etc.,  published  at  Lucca,  1843. 

Rossmassler's  '  Reise-Erinnerungen  aus  Spanien.'     Leipzig,  1854,  2  vols. 

'  Manual  de  Botanica  descriptiva,'  by  Cutanda  y  Amo.     2  vols.  54r. 

Schimper's  '  Voyage  Geologico-Botanique  dans  le  Sud  de  l'Espagne,'  in  the 
review  '  L'lnstitut,'  p.  189  ;  and  Moritz  Willkomm's  '  Die  Strand,'  etc.,  on  the 
steppes  or  baldios  of  Spain  ;  with  a  botanical  map.     Leipzig,  1852. 

'Flora  Hispanica,'  Willkomm  and  Lange,  3  vols.  8vo,  Stuttgardt,  1861- 
1880.     Most  reliable. 

'Notes  sur  un  Voyage  Botanique  dans  les  lies  Baleares  et  en  Valence.' 
Par  E.  Barnat  et  W.  Barbey.     Geneva,  1882. 

'  Diccionario  de  los  nombres  Euskaros  de  las  Plantas  en  correspondencia  con 
los  vulgares  Castellanos  y  Franceses  y  cientfficos  Latinos.'  Por  D.  J.  M.  de 
Lacoizqueta.     Pamplona,  1888. 

Annual  Reports  of  School  of  Forestry  in  Spain.     London. 

'In  Northern  Spain.'     By  Dr.  Hans  Gadow.     London,  1897. 

'  Wild  Spain.'     By  Chapman  and  Buck.     London,  1893. 

The  'School  of  Forest  Engineers  in  Spain,'  by  Dr.  J.  Crombie  Brown 
(Edinburgh,  1886,  Oliver  and  Boyd),  gives  useful  information  and  references, 
with  catalogue  of  recent  Spanish  works  on  the  subject. 


Agriculture. 

A  light,  easily- worked,  and  most  fertile  soil,  a  combination  of  great  heat 
and  moisture,  absence  of  untimely  frost,  vast  extent — all  contribute  to 


AGRICULTURE.  XXXV 

make  Spain  a  pre-eininently  agricultural  country  ;  and  the  Spaniard,  a 
man  of  few  wants,  has  always  preferred  agriculture  to  trade  and  industry. 
The  reason  is  obvious  :  the  sol  enactor,  the  sun — that  great  natural  farmer 
of  Spain — supplies  every  want,  clothes,  feeds,  and  makes  a  perpetual 
summer  and  harvest ;  besides  which,  the  Spaniards  were  obliged  to  limit 
themselves  to  agriculture  by  the  circumstances  of  their  history  and 
character.  Constant  wars  on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  want  of  roads, 
hindered  the  steady  development  of  trade.  Commerce,  which  requires 
order,  regularity,  keeping  accounts,  intercourse  with  strangers,  and  some 
knowledge  of  tongues — all  things  which  a  *  labrador '  knows  not,  he 
naturally  despised.  Trade,  moreover,  was  scorned  by  proud  hidalgos, 
whilst  farming  has  always  been  considered  by  them  a  gentleman's  pursuit. 
Like  all  soldiers,  the  Spanish  hidalgo  did  not  disdain  to  occupy  his  leisure 
hour,  between  campaigns,  with  the  cares  of  looking  after  his  estates,  thus 
living  as  the  Romans  did,  eiise  et  aratro.  But  even  that  farming  was 
prosecuted  chiefly  with  a  view  to  increasing  the  rude  sinews  of  war,  by 
the  production  of  flour  and  wool ;  and,  like  other  warlike  nations,  the 
Spaniards  put  great  value  on  their  flocks,  which  they  could  move  from 
place  to  place,  as  the  exigencies  of  the  time  required. 

Omnia  secum 

Armentarius  Afer  agit ;  tectumque,  Iaremque, 
Armaque,  Amyclseumque  canem,  Cressamque  pharetram. 

Virgil,  Georg. 

Even  when  permanent  conquests  fixed  them  anywhere,  their  farm- 
houses became  castles,  their  meadows  fields  of  battle,  and  their  plough- 
men and  drovers  all  fighting  men.  Thus  a  peasantry,  all  guerilleros  to 
the  bone,  living  amid  perpetual  border  warfare,  exposed  to  the  raids  of 
the  Christians  and  tolas  of  the  Moor,  was  not  likely  to  possess  artificial 
pasture  and  forests,  and  rather  adopted  extensive  than  intensive  agricul- 
ture. The  methods  and  implements  employed  were  preserved  as  the 
traditions  of  the  earlier  races  handed  them  down,  with  such  changes  only 
as  the  nature  of  the  soil  and  climate  might  suggest.  The  different  races 
who  settled  in  Spain  did  so  in  those  parts  which  were  more  congenial  to 
their  temperament,  and  possessed  of  greater  similarity  to  their  own  native 
land  ;  and  to  this  day  the  practices  of  agriculture  are  but  the  slow  growth 
of  the  seeds  sown  by  the  passing  rulers.  The  Basque  and  Asturian 
agriculture  is  still  that  introduced  by  Celts  and  Cantabrians  ;  the  Greek 
and  Carthaginian  methods  are  now  in  use  in  Cataluna  and  the  Mediter- 
ranean coast.  The  Goth  and  Moor  live  in  the  rural  methods,  and  the 
farmer's  calendar  of  Central  and  Southern  Spain  ;  and  the  Berber  and 
Bedouin  farmer,  if  landed  in  the  huerta  of  Valencia,  would  have  little  to 
forget  and  nothing  to  learn  anew.  Varro,  Columella,  Virgil,  and  Abu- 
Zakarias — nay,  Homer  and  Hesiod — seem  to  have  written  for  the  Spanish 


xXXVi  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

farmers  of  the  nineteenth  century.  The  descriptions  of  the  cultivation 
of  vines,  olive,  and  rural  festivities  now  in  use  will  be  found  in  the  books 
of  Amos,  Joel,  and  Deuteronomy.  The  plough,  trilla,  and  other  imple- 
ments resemble  those  seen  on  lie  monuments  of  Egypt  and  Asia  Minor. 
The  causes  of  this  were  constant  war,  which  thinned  the  population  to 
such  an  extent  that  it  once  did  not  reach  eight  millions  (though  Spain  is 
almost  twice  as  large  as  England,  and  only  one-tenth  smaller  than 
France) ;  religious  intolerance,  which  drove  away  the  industrious  Moor 
and  wealthy  Jews,  the  marrow  of  the  nation ;  hatred  to  foreigners,  ot 
which  four  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  were  expelled  under  Philip  IL, 
at  the  suggestion  of  the  Council  of  Castile,  who  declared  '  que  es  conveni- 
ente  excusar  el  trato  y  comercio  con  ellos,  porque  solo  sirven  hacer 
destruir  el  reino/  adding  the  charitable  hope  that  the  king  may  oblige 
them, '  que  se  vayan  a  bus  tierras  ;'  misgovei'nment,  and  the  heavy  taxes, 
tithes,  and  vexations  of  which  the  farming  class  was  the  object ;  the 
institution  of  La  Mesta  and  other  privileged  societies  of  ganaderos 
(breeders),  creating  a  monopoly  detrimental  to  husbandry  ;  the  absorption 
of  property  by  the  few,  which  chiefly  arose  from  the  distribution  of  the 
land  conquered  from  the  Infidel  among  the  principal  military  chiefs  ;  the 
absenteeism  of  those  courtiers  who  remembered  that  they  had  estates  only 
to  exact  soldiers  or  to  raise  money  from  ;  the  discovery  of  America  and  a 
thirst  for  gold,  which  made  the  farmer  leave  his  hard-earned  crop  for  the 
Eldorados  of  the  New  World  ;  and,  finally,  insecurity  and  centralisation. 
These,  we  repeat,  are  the  causes  which  have  paralysed  the  development 
of  the  natural  resources.  When  a  pause  ensued  after  the  Peninsular  War, 
a  desire  for  rest,  which  so  strenuous  an  effort  commanded,  and  the  irre- 
sistible influence  of  progress,  began  to  be  felt ;  and  though  France  had 
fattened  the  Spanish  soil  with  the  bodies  of  its  generous  sons,  the  seeds 
that  she  had  dropped  in  the  furrows  which  her  sword  had  opened  now 
grew  and  prospered.  Church  property  was  sold  and  divided  ;  the  law  of 
primogeniture  was  abolished  ;  8,470,008  acres  of  forests  belonging  "to  the 
State  were  declared  desamortizakles  ;  and  the  produce  in  the  year  1850 
alone  of  the  Bienes  Nacionales  amounted  to  £1,019,360.  The  conse- 
quence has  been  that  a  middle  class,  a  bourgeoisie,  has  sprung  up,  eager 
of  power,  of  wealth,  of  liberty,  that  scorns  an  impotent  nobility,  and 
tenders  the  hand  to  the  hardy,  though  indifferent  lower  classes.  The  price 
of  good  land  is  increasing,  wages  have  risen,  security  has  been  guaran- 
teed by  the  organisation  of  the  Guardia  Civil.  Railways  are  contributing 
powerfully  to  the  prosperity  of  the  agricultural  classes.  French  books 
are  studied,  and  English  machines  are  introduced  ;  several  Government 
agricultural  schools  and  model  farms  have  been  established  at  Vitoria, 
Tolosa,  Barcelona,  Aranjuez,  Nogales  (province  of  Leon),  of  which  the 
directors  have  studied  at  Grignon,  and  the  pupils  have  been  sent  as 
capatazes  all  over  Spain  to  manage  large  farms  according  to  the  most 


AGRICULTURE — MAIZE.  XXXVii 

approved  system.  A  gusto  or  fashion  for  genteel  farming  is  even  affecting 
some  of  the  nobility,  who  now  go  as  far  even  as  three  miles  whenever 
their  estates  are  within  that  distance  of  the  Corte.  Agricultural  exhibi- 
tions take  place  periodically  in  the  principal  cities  of  Spain,  while  several 
farmers'  clubs,  asociacwnes,  arise  here  and  there,  publish  reviews,  and  make 
experiments.  Free-trade  is  discussed,  though  not  as  yet  adopted.  In  a 
word,  the  wheel  has  been  set  in  motion — it  turns  and  advances.  May 
Government,  the  hostile  ignorance  of  the  peasantry,  and  civil  strife,  not 
drive  it  again  into  the  rut 

Taking  the  range  of  climate  which  prevails,  and  the  principal  product 
which  it  determines,  we  shall  classify  Spain  into  five  agricultural  regions- 
viz.  that  of  the  North,     or  of  maize  ;    that  of  the  East,  or  the  orange  ; 
that  of  the  South,  or  the  vine  ;  that  of  the  West,  or  pasture  ;  and  that  of 
the  Centre,  or  corn. 

The  Noeth  Kegion,  or  of  Maize, 

Includes  the  northern  portion  of  Cataluna,  Aragon,  Navarre,  Basque  Pro- 
vince, Asturias,  Galicia.  The  principal  products  are  : — Maize  or  Indian 
corn,  fruit-trees,  cattle.  Corn  scarcely  ripens,  and  the  vine  produces  an 
inferior  wine,  the  acidity  of  which,  caused  by  a  relative  want  of  sun  and 
certain  minerals  in  the  soil,  unfits  it  generally  for  exportation.  There 
are  marked  exceptions,  of  course,  and  some  good  wine  is  produced  and 
exported  in  Cataluna,  Aragon,  and  Navarre.  Maize  is  cultivated  chiefly 
in  the  Basque  Province,  Asturias,  and  Galicia,  where  it  constitutes  the 
principal  food  of  the  people.  A  hectare  (2£  acres)  produces  on  an  average 
50  to  58  hectoL  (137  bushels),  weighing  60  to  70  kil.  (140  lbs.) ;  the 
straw  is  used  for  fodder  and  food  of  cattle  ;  the  grain  produces  more 
butter  than  milk,  and  fattens  quickly.  It  is  sown  in  May  and  June,  in 
lines  at  intervals,  ploughed  in  or  buried  with  the  foot  Weeding  takes 
place  once  (July),  and  the  reaping  in  August  or  September.  The  ears  of 
maize  are  exposed  for  some  time  to  the  air,  and  hang  in  thick  golden 
clusters  around  the  farm-windows,  and  from  under  the  projecting  roofs. 
The  thrashing  takes  place  with  flails,  or  a  special  machine.  The  produce 
reaches  700%  ;  and  requires  irrigation  in  the  centre  and  south  of  Spain. 
Although  there  are  very  large  estates  in  Aragon  and  Cataluna,  property 
is  very  much  divided ;  farms  seldom  extend  over  seven  acres.  The 
wooden  plough  is  used,  with  an  orejera,  or  share  ;  but  cultivation  is  more 
practised  with  a  two-pronged  fork,  laya,  the  identical  mattocks  mentioned 
in  Froissart's  <  Chronicle/  and  Churchill, '  The  Duellist/  book  1 1.  The 
Aragonese  make  use  of  the  azadon,  or  pickaxe,  and  are  first-rate  at  digging. 
Green  hedges  divide  property  in  the  Basque  Provinces  and  West — an  old 
tradition,  handed  down  by  their  forefathers,  the  Celts  and  Cantabrians 
(Virgil,  Georg.  book  2,  v.  370  ;  Csesar,  217) ;  but  in  Cataluna  there  are 
none,  as  neither  in  Castile,  for  •  the  hidalgo  cannot  wall  in  Spain/  saj-a 


XXXVU1 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


the  proud  legislation  of  ancient  times,  and  instead  they  have  land-marks, 
mojones — that  is,  mere  stones  placed  de  comun  acuerdo,  and  never  trans- 
gressed— '  Thou  shalt  not  remove  thy  neighbour's  land-mark  which  they 
of  old  have  set  in  thine  inheritance '  (Deut.  xix.  1 4) ;  and  in  the  Gothic 
legislation,  he  who  dared  to  break  through  a  hedge  received  fifty  lashes 
(For.  Tur.  b.  8,  tit.  2,  cap.  6  and  7) ;  the  Basques,  therefore,  make  them, 
as  Chaucer  says,  '  a  hegge  as  thicke  as  a  castel  wall.'  The  hills  are 
clothed  with  timber  ;  chestnuts,  pears,  and  apple-trees  grow  plentifully  on 
the  slopes  ;  and  excellent  cider,  pomarada,  is  made.  The  rotation  of 
crops  is  biennial :  first  year,  wheat  or  clover,  turnips,  and  red  clover ; 
second  year,  Indian  corn,  beans,  and  turnips.  The  cattle  are  short-horned, 
small ;  used  for  milk,  and  the  plough  in  lieu  of  oxen  and  mules  ;  mostly 
imported  from  Brittany  and  Santander ;  and  yield  4  to  10  quarts  a-day. 

The  South  Region,  or  of  Vines, 

Includes  Seville,  Cadiz,  Granada,  all  Andalucia.  The  soil  here  teems 
with  generation  ;  the  fertility  is  especially  great  in  irrigated  soils,  where 
abundance  and  size  make  up  for  want  of  flavour  and  delicacy.  The  hills 
abound  with  timber.  An  aranzada  (an  English  acre  all  but  a  tenth)  is 
valued  in  the  province  of  Seville  to  produce  as  in  the  following  table  : — 


Irrigated  Soil. 

Non-Irrigated. 

For  Cereals. 

Fruit 

Olive. 

Vine. 

Cereals. 

Pasture. 

Forest 

1 

£8/18/4 

£*sM& 

£">M 

j£io/*/3 

£lli*l6 

,£2/13/6 

£9/17/3 

Property  is  very  little  divided,  and  some  estates  in  the  province  of  Cadiz 
amount  to  36,000  aranz.,  in  which  800  mules  plough  the  land,  and  are 
valued  about  £160,000,  such  as  that  of  Enrile  and  Velazquez.  The 
wages  are  4  to  8r.  (10d.  to  Is.  8d.)  a  day  ;  the  produce  4  to  5  per  cent. 
The  Vine* — Spain  possesses  a  soil  especially  suited  to  its  cultivation, 
and  though  grown  all  over  the  country,  this  is  its  native  district.  The 
different  modes  of  cultivating  it  were  introduced  by  the  Romans.  The 
ground  is  first  deeply  ploughed,  then  large  and  deep  hoyos  (pits),  two  to 
three  yards  distant,  are  dug,  the  intervals  being  shorter  if  the  soil  is  turned 
with  the  pickaxe.  Wine  is  produced  in  two  and  a  half  to  four  years  after 
the  planting,  an  aranzada  yielding  from  80  to  300  arrobas  of  grape,  con- 
stituting a  carga,  or  load  ;  that  is,  8  arrobas  of  grape  produce  3  arrobas 
of  wine.  In  some  parts,  however,  2  arrobas  of  grape  make  1  of  wine  (an 
arroba,  3 \  gallons).  The  cost  of  vintage  (vendeja) — treading  (pisa)  yielding 
the  most  (arregio  de  mosto) — averages  3r.  (7d.)  per  carga.  The  vineyards 
are  guarded  by  sheds  and  turrets,  just  as  in  Numbers  xxii.  26. 

*  For  fuller  particulars  on  Spanish  wine,  see  page  xliv. 


AGRICULTURE — ORANGE-TREES.  XXXLX 

The  Olive  grows  everywhere  in  Spain,  but  more  especially  in  the 
region  of  the  south.  The  most  celebrated  are  in  Cordova,  the  olivares  of 
Calera,  Lucena,  and  Montoro  in  the  province  of  Jaen  ;  those  of  Andnjar, 
Bailen,  and  La  Aldea  ;  those  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Granada  are  also 
excellent ;  howbeit,  the  Sevillanas  bear  the  palm.  The  cultivation  is  ill 
understood.  The  best  soil  for  the  olive  is  that  where  limestone  prevails, 
and  the  best  species  is  the  cornicabra.  A  fanega  (1 J  bushel)  of  olives 
gives  15  to  18  fbs.  of  oil.  An  aranzada  produces  12  arrobas,  which 
make  325  lbs.  of  oil;  this  is  the  minimum  type.  The  value  of  12 
arrobas  produced  by  an  aranzada  is  550r.,the  cost  to  produce  them  35 Or. 
The  liquid  amount  is  about  1200r.  (£12  :  10s.) ;  each  olive-tree  gives 
half-a-fanega  of  olives  per  year,  and  the  aranzada  20  to  25  ;  but  trees 
are  known  to  yield  as  much  as  8  and  more.  They  are  planted  in  rows  ; 
a  branch  is  cut  in  January,  the  end  opened  by  four  slits  ;  it  is  then 
planted,  banked,  and  watered  for  two  or  three  years,  and  pruned  into 
four  or  five  branches.  They  begin  to  produce  at  the  eighth  year,  but 
twelve  and  eighteen  are  necessary  to  reach  the  highest  produce.  The 
berry  in  the  central  and  northern  regions  of  Spain  does  not  ripen  till  the 
end  of  December,  but  in  Andalusia  early  in  the  autumn.  The  process 
for  making  oil  is  still  very  primitive,  though  hydraulic  and  other 
machinery  is  being  gradually  introduced.  Olives  are  also  preserved  to 
be  eaten  whole  ;  for  this  they  are  picked  before  they  are  quite  ripe,  and 
steeped  in  brine.  The  olive  is  nutritious,  but  heating.  Most  of  the 
sorts  used  now  bear  the  old  Roman  names  (Columella,  5-8).  They  are 
dearer  now  than  they  were  at  Rome,  when  '  olei  librae  duodena  assibus ' 
(Pliny,  15,  1).  Oil,  aceitef  the  Arab's  azzait,  is  a  substitute  for  butter 
and  grease  in  Spain.  They  make  with  it  a  dish  called  migasy  which  is 
a  compound  of  crumbs  of  bread  fried  with  oil,  salt,  and  pepper — the 
Latin  poet's  '  mica  vocor  quid  sim  cernis  caenatio  parva  ;'  and  gazpacho, 
or  bread  soaked  in  oil.  The  oil  consumed  in  Spain  amounts  to  6,556,500 
gallons,  being  4  gals.  6  pints  per  head  ;  while  the  consumption  of  meat 
is  23-03  lbs. 

In  this  district  the  vegetables  are  excellent,  some  of  enormous  size. 
The  Cordovese  artichokes  were  a  relish  at  Rome  (Pliny,  19,  8).  Melons 
(andrejuelas)  and  water-melons  (sandias),  citrons  and  lima",  are  most  ex- 
quisite ;  so  are  the  pomegranates  (granadas)  which  were  sent  to  Abdur-r- 
rhaman  from  Baghdad,  and  therefore  called  jafaries — Arabice,  travellers. 

The  East  Region,  or  of  Orange-Trees, 

Includes  E.  and  S.  Cataluna,  Valencia,  Alicante,  Murcia,  Malaga.  This 
is  the  paradise  of  the  farming  Moor,  the  richest  soil  in  Europe,  and  one 
of  the  best  cultivated  ;  every  tropical  plant  grows  and  thrives  admirably 
— rice,  sugar,  cotton,  wine,  oil,  silk,  corn.     Taking  Castellon  for  average 


Xl  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

type,  the  hanegada  (32  square  poles)  is  valued  from  2000r.  (£21)  to  4000r. 
(,£42),  if  irrigated  ;  the  rent  and  value  of  the  Huerta  (orchard)  are  in  pro- 
portion to  the.  period  and  growth  of  the  plantations.  The  naranjales 
(orange-grounds)  are  divided  into  three  classes  on  an  average  ;  the  hec- 
tare is  valued  at  pes.  24,500,  each  tree  produces  pes.  175,  and  the 
hanegada  contains  about  twenty  trees.  The  arrendamiento  (farming-lease) 
of  a  hanegada  planted  with  orange-trees,  from  15  to  20  years  old,  is  250 
reals  (£2  :  12s.) — viz. pes.  305  per  hectare  (2 \  acres) ;  the  trees  begin  to  bear 
fruit  after  the  sixth  year,  and  improve  up  to  20  years,  after  which  they 
degenerate  ;  they  flower  in  March.  '  It  rarely  happens  to  find  a  plant 
vigorous  enough  to  have,  like  the  orange-tree,  at  once  beautiful  shining 
leaves,  fragrant  flowers,  and  delicious  nourishing  fruit '  (Spectator,  mem. 
155).  The  exportation  is  very  large.  Including  lemons,  the  value  of 
the  trade  with  Great  Britain  alone  during  the  year  1896  amounted  to 
£1,685,000  (other  fruits  £1,345,568),  and  exportation  to  Germany  and 
other  countries  is  on  the  increase.  The  oranges  are  picked  in  a  some- 
what desultory  manner  from  October  to  March,  wrapped  in  paper,  and 
packed  in  boxes  containing  700  to  1000  each,  and  worth  to  the 
importer  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  shillings ;  they  ripen  during  the 
voyage.  The  finest  naranjales  are  at  Ricote,  Murcia,  at  Cullera,  Alcira, 
Gandia,  Carcagente. 

Bice. — Considerably  produced  and  consumed  in  this  region  ;  intro- 
duced by  the  Carthaginians  and  cultivated  by  the  Arabs,  who  called  it 
arrbz,  and  sowed  it  on  both  irrigated  and  non-irrigated  soil :  it  is  now 
principally  produced  in  marshy  swamps,  called  marjales  or  arrowzaUs, 
ague-feeders,  that  produce  great  mortality  among  the  cultivators.  A  hec- 
tare produces  20  to  50  hectolitre  of  grain  (a  heck  =  5 J  qrs.,  and  the 
stalks  weigh  85  cwt.)  The  fertility  which  100  kilogrammes  of  rice-grain 
and  straw  draw  from  the  soil  is  equal  to  that  contained  in  135  kiL  of 
good  manure. 

Sugar-Cane,  introduced  by  the  Arabs,  is  limited  to  the  province  of 
Malaga  ;  the  cultivation  does  not  extend,  owing  to  American  competition  ; 
grows  only  on  irrigated  soil.  The  sugar  produced  is  only  10  per  cent, 
whilst  in  Cuba  15*4  to  17*6  ;  a  hectare  of  sugar-cane  yields  2900  kiL  of 
sugar.  This  Arab  sukhir  and  Sanscrit  sarkara  was,  according  to  some, 
imported  from  Sicily  by  the  Carthaginians,  and  exported  by  the  Spaniards 
to  St.  Domingo,  though  indigenous  in  that  country. 

The  Raisin. — There  are  pasas  of  three  sorts — moscatel,  de  sol  (sun 
raisin)  and  lejias,  so  called  from  the  liquor  ley  in  which  they  are  dipped, 
composed  of  water,  ashes,  and  oil,  after  which  they  go  through  the  usual 
process  of  drying  in  the  sun.  The  finest  are  those  from  Malaga,  which 
fetch  a  third  more  than  any  other  in  the  London  market.  The  annual 
exportation  is  about  2,500,000  boxes,  22  lbs.  to  a  box. 

Batatas  (Convolvulus  batatas,  L.) — Another  produce  of  Malaga,   im- 


AGRICULTURE — PASTURE.  xli 

ported  from  South  America  ;  used  as  a  sweetmeat,  and  excellent  when 
boiled,  planted  in  spring,  and  taken  up  in  autumn.  A  hectare  yields 
thirty  to  sixty  thousand  kil.     The  leaves  are  eaten  by  cattle. 

Silks. — Chiefly  at  Valencia,  where  the  mulberry  grows  admirably,  and 
the  silk  is  excellent.  The  methods  practised  are  antiquated  ;  the  Phalcena 
bombyx  is  commonly  employed.  The  cocoon  weighs  only  2  grammes,  whilst 
that  of  the  Bombyz  atlas,  at  the  Vincennes  model-farm,  weighs  9.  The 
trade  is  slightly  on  the  increase. 

Cotton. — The  soil  and  climate  are  favourable,  but  man  is  unequal  to 
either.  In  Motril  (province  of  Granada),  towards  the  end  of  the  last 
century,  1781  marjales  produced  12,000  arrohas  (300,000  lbs.)  The 
Arabs  cultivated  it  on  the  Andalusian  sea-shore.  We  have  seen  fine 
specimens  at  Elche  (Alicant).  A  hectare  (2£  acres)  yields  in  a  quin- 
quennio,  or  period  of  five  years,  5200  kil.  (102  cwts.),  which,  at  the  lowest 
price  (4r.  25c.  per  kil.,  lOjd.),  are  valued  at  £272 ;  the  expenses  may 
be  reckoned  at  £256,  the  net  produce  being  therefore  about  £16  per 
hectare;  whilst  in  Algeria  the  maximum  produce  is  £12  :  10s.  per  hec- 
tare. In  1 808  there  were  as  many  as  forty  thousand  marjales  planted  in 
Motril ;  it  decreased  again  during  the  Peninsular  war,  and  is  very  slowly  re- 
covering. Land  is  very  cheap,  and  were  English  companies  to  buy  up  a  large 
extent,  and  cultivate  cotton,  the  result  would,  no  doubt,  prove  satisfactory. 

Irrigation. — The  huertas  of  Valencia,  Murcia,  and  vegas  of  Granada, 
are  the  great  centres  of  irrigation.  The  celebrated  tribunal  de  las 
A.guas,  at  Valencia,  applies  to  this  day  the  code  of  laws  introduced  by  the 
Goths  and  Arabs.  The  noria,  or  Arab  anaoura,  is  a  large  water-wheel, 
armed  with  jars  (alcabuces)  which  descend  into  the  well,  and,  as  they  rise, 
following  the  motion  of  the  wheel,  discharge  their  contents  into  a  reservoir. 
There  is  irrigation  by  agua  de  pie*  (running  water)  and  agua  de  noria, 
artefacto,  arte,  as  these  wheels  are  called,  according  to  the  province  where 
they  are  employed.  By  means  of  irrigation,  Alfalfa  (Lucerne)  is  mowed 
twelve  to  sixteen  times.  Guano  is  now  much  employed  by  farmers  in 
the  Huerta  of  Valencia  and  other  enterprising  districts.  The  neces- 
sity of  irrigation,  and  when  obtained,  in  this  parched-up  soil,  the  aug- 
mentation of  the  value  of  land,  will  appear  evident  when  we  state  that, 
whilst  in  the  province  of  Murcia  unirrigated  (secano)  land  sells  from  £12 
to  £30  per  acre,  irrigated  (regadio)  land  fetches  prices  varying  from  £300 
to  £600.  In  the  Huerta  of  Valencia,  the  proportion  is  £6  to  £12  in  the 
first  case,  and  £300  to  £400  in  the  second.  Again,  while  the  value  of 
a  cubic  foot  of  water  per  second  is  in  Lombardy  £8,  and  in  Piedmont 
1 7s.  6<L,  it  is  often  sold  in  Spain  at  the  rate  of  £300  the  cubic  foot  per 
second,  and  sometimes  exceeds  this  price. 

The  West  Region,  or  of  Pasture, 

Includes  Estremadura  and  portions  of  Leon  :  contains  little  more  than 
59  inhabitants  per  square  league  ;  consists  of  large  wastes,  valdios,  and 


ylii  GENERAL   INFORMATION. 

pasture-land.  The  agriculture  is  strictly  pastoral.  A  company  of  sheep 
proprietors,  called  Concejo  de  la  Mesta,  was  established  in  ]  556,  to  which 
most  exclusive  and  arbitrary  privileges  were  granted.  In  the  15th  cen- 
tury they  possessed  seven  millions  of  sheep,  in  the  1 7th  century  only 
two  and  a  half.  It  was  suppressed  in  1834,  and  the  remnant,  the  now 
unprivileged  Associacion  de  Ganaderos,  possesses  only  five  millions.  The 
flocks  are  divided  into  estantes  (stationary)  and  trashumayites,  or  migratory, 
and  divided  into  detached  cabanas  (from  the  Greek  kapane,  a  stable),  of 
about  10,000  head  each.  The  highland  summer  pastures  are  called 
agostaderos  (August,  from  agostar,  to  be  parched  with  heat,  as  mesta  comes 
from  mesial,  a  barren  uncultivated  land),  and  are  quitted  about  October 
for  the  invernadores,  winter  quarters,  in  the  warm  plains  ;  each  cabana  is 
directed  by  a  Mayoral,  or  Merino,  who  has  under  his  orders  fifty  shep- 
herds. The  free  sheep-walks, '  Canada  de  Paso/  now  suppressed,  were 
90  ft.  wide,  and  were  left  on  each  side  of  the  highway,  an  organisation  and 
custom  well  known  to  the  ancients.  (Pliny,  21, 10  ;  Varro,  22,  10  ;  2,  2.) 
The  merino  breeds  were  so  called  from  the  conductor's  name  (whence  those 
jurisdictional  districts  called  merindades,  etymologically  to  divide,  to 
separate,  as  in  Navarre,  to  this  day).  Spanish  sheep  were  "always  cele- 
brated, and  some  fetched  at  Rome  as  much  as  i>200  (Columella,  B.C.  42). 
George  III.  was  a  great  patron  of  the  breed,  and  the  late  king  of  Saxony 
imported  it.  Indeed,  such  has  been  the  care  and  intelligence  shown  by 
English  and  Germans,  and  the  neglect  of  Spanish  breeders,  that  the  wool 
trade  with  Spain  has  become  insignificant  compared  with  that  of  Ger- 
many and  Brazil,  and  merinos  are  now  imported  from  those  countries  to 
regenerate  the  Spanish  breeds  !  Spain  in  1896  possessed  about  twenty- 
five  and  a  half  million  head.  The  net  produce  of  a  sheep  is  4r.  to  6r^ 
and  the  price  about  pes.  10 

Swine  are  another  produce  of  this  region,  and  the  bacon  and  hams  of 
Montanches  and  the  strong  chorizos  are  celebrated  all  over  Spain. 

The  Central  Region,  or  of  Corn, 

Includes  the  Castiles  S.  of  Leon,  Mancha,  etc.  This  region  consists  of  vast 
treeless  plains,  where  corn  thrives  wonderfully,  and  might  indeed  become 
the  granary  of  the  world.  An  aranzada  (nearly  an  acre)  is  in  general 
sown  with  a  fanega  and  5  cuartillos  (If  bushel) ;  in  Andalusia  it  yields 
from  13  to  20  fanegadas.  A  fanegada  of  land  in  Castile  yields  9  to  30. 
There  are  a  great  many  varieties  of  corn,  all  divided  under  the  heads  of 
cahivanos  and  canimacizos — that  is,  blandos  and  duros  ;  90  lbs.  weight  of 
wheat  yield  115  lbs.  of  bread.  Much  barley  is  also  grown,  but  is  princi- 
pally given  to  horses  and  cattle.  The  great  wheat  districts  are  Palencia, 
Valladolid,  Zamora,  with  Old  Castile,  *  tierras  de  pran  llevar'  is  applied  to 
land  which  grows  it  more  especially.  All  corn  is  sown  broadcast  on  fallow 
land  and  ploughed  in ;  the  sowing  takes  places  from  October  to  Novem- 
ber.    In  the  spring  the  escarda  (weeding)  takes  place  and  in  July  and 


AGRICULTURE — CORN.  xlili 

August  the  reaping  begins,  which  is  done  with  the  sickle,  not  the  scythe, 
a  slower  but  surer  process  in  this  climate.  The  thrashing-floors  (eras), 
la  trilla,  the  wooden  or  stone  roller  used  in  some  disticts,  and  in  others 
the  treading  the  corn  with  mules  or  oxen,  are  all  Eastern  importations, 
and  such  as  practised  now  in  Egypt  and  Asia  Minor.  The  plough  is  an 
elm-tree,  alamo  negro  ( Ulmus  nigra),  stripped  of  its  bark  and  branches, 
save  a  lower  one,  which  is  sharpened  and  coated  with  a  thin  sheet  of 
iron  ;  the  trunk  forms  the  pole,  and  lies  obliquely  between  the  oxen  or 
mules'  heads  ;  no  traces,  no  reins  are  needed,  the  voice  alone  suffices  to 
guide  the  yunta,  and  the  ganan  follows  rather  than  directs  the  plough, 
holding  the  single  handle  with  his  left  hand,  and  with  a  short  goad 
(gavilan)  scrapes  off  the  mud,  roots,  etc.  But  the  goad  he  manages  to 
leave  behind  in  the  apero,  which  is  often  two  or  three  leagues  distant ; 
and  he  will  go  on  singing,  as  he  ploughs,  some  wild  ditty  to  the  winds 
and  his  lass,  looking  back  rather  than  forward,  contrary  to  the  injunc- 
tion of  the  Bible.  The  vertedera  (versoir),  or  iron-share  plough  is  little 
known,  nor  rollers  and  harrows,  as  we  understand  them.  The  ploughing 
is  very  light,  what  the  Romans  called  scarificatio.  The  furrows  seldom 
exceed  eight  inches ;  its  different  operations  are  reduced  to  4  rejas ;  the 
plough  costs  from  50r.  to  75r.  (10s.  5d.  to  15s.  7d.,  and  weighs  25  lbs.), 
and  weighs  one  arroba  ;  ploughing  otherwise  is  scorned,  '  arado  rabudo 
y  labrador  barbudo.'  TTie  rotation  of  crops  is  unknown,  and  would 
scarcely  be  possible  without  manure  or  water.  The  most  usual  system 
is  that  of  ano  y  vez  (every  other  year).  Thus  the  soil  only  bears  a  crop 
every  second  year,  and  rests — that  is,  is  manured  by  the  air — the  other. 
Wages  vary  from  4r.  to  8r.  (from  lOd.  to  Is.  6d.)  The  Castilian  labra- 
dores  are  far  from  indolent,  rise  with  the  cock,  and  are  harder  workers 
than  is  generally  believed. 

Saffron,  azafran  (Arabice  saffrd,  yellow),  is  also  extensively  grown  ; 
and  garbanzos  (cicer,  unde  Cicero,  whose  wart  was  like  one).  This  chick- 
pea, the  French  pois-chiche,  is  farinaceous,  somewhat  fade,  but  fiUs  the 
buche,  and  that  is  all  that  is  required.  It  is,  moreover,  grown  without 
irrigation,  and  yields  plentiful  crops.  This  pea,  quite  a  Spanish  pro- 
duce (*  Espana,  la  tierra  de  los  garbanzos*),  enters  largely  into  the  daily 
food  of  the  poor  and  rich  man  alike,  for  the  olla  or  puchero  appears  on 
the  queen's  table  every  day,  as  it  does  between  the  crossed  legs  of  the 
squatting  albanil,  or  ploughboy.  The  olla  (olla,  a  pot,  a  pipkin)  or 
puchero,  and  also  cocido,  is  the  Spanish  staple  dish.  It  is  a  compound 
of  stringy,  dried-up  beef,  boiled  garbanzos,  bacon,  cabbage,  chicken 
(victims  generally  of  rapid  decline),  releves  by  highly-spiced  chorizo,  etc., 
all  boiled  and  served  together.  Quantity  replaces  quality,  and  it  satisfies 
all  Spanish  stomachs,  even  that  of  the  fastidious  Cura,  whose  happiness 
is  summed  up  in  it. 

Su  olla,  su  mtsa, 
Y  su  DoJla  Luisa 


xliv  GENERAL   INFORMATION. 

The  algarroba  (Orium  minanthos,  L.)  is  very  much  grown,  and  is 
especially  used  for  cattle  ;  10  to  15  hectols.  are  produced  in  a  hectare. 
The  flour  made  with  it  is  excellent  for  milk-cows  ;  grows  on  non-irri- 
gated soil ;  two  species,  black  and  white ;  the  grains  are  sometimes  called 
Arbejones. 

Books  of  Reference, — 'Curso  de  Economia  rural  Espafiola,'  by  Tablada. 
Excellent,  in  course  of  publication.     Madrid,  Cuesta,  1864. 

( Manual  de  la  Construction  de  las  Maquinas  aratorias,'  by  same.  Madrid, 
1852. 

*  Manual  de  Riegos  y  Prados,'  by  same. 

Consular  and  Commercial  Reports  for  Spain.     London,  1893. 

'Abu  Zakaria's  Moorish  Agric.'  (dates  12th  century),  and  was  written  for 
the  use  of  the  Sevillian  Moors,  found  in  Ebnu-1-Awmam's  Book  of  Agriculture. 
Translated  by  Senor  Banqueri.  Madrid,  2  fol.  vols.,  1802.  Republished  in 
2  vols.  i2mo;  Seville,  1872,  in  the  series  Biblioteca-Cientifico-Literaria. 

The  best  periodicals  are  '  La  Espana  Agricola,'  and  '  Eco  de  la  Ganaderia.> 

Wine. 

The  celebrity  of  Spanish  wine  was  great  even  in  olden  times.  That 
it  was  exported  to  England  and  France  as  early  as  the  16th  century 
there  is  no  doubt  Spanish  wines  have  lately  superseded  Madeira  and 
other  white  ones,  but  the  export  is  on  the  decline,  the  total  value  in 
1894  not  exceeding  £4,000,000.  The  principal  characteristics  of  the 
Spanish  wines  are — fulness  of  body  (cuerpo),  strength  derived  from 
its  natural  spirituosity  (encalitzado),  absence  of  acidity,  owing  to  the 
power  of  the  sun,  very  high  flavour  or  bouquet,  and  great  durability, 
in  the  whites  more  especially.  The  principal  white  wines  are — Jerez, 
Malaga,  Manzanilla  ;  the  red— Valdepenas,  Rioja,  Benicarlo. 

White. — Jerez,  or  Sherry,  pronounced  '  Harez,'  was  introduced  into 
England  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIL,  and  became  a  general  favourite  in 
the  time  of  Elizabeth.  The  sack  mentioned  so  often  in  the  works  of 
Beaumont  and  Fletcher  ('the  vertue  of  sack') ;  of  Ben  Jonson  («  An 
Epigram/  etc.) ;  and  in  Shakspeare  (Hen.  IV.,  pt.  1,  etc.)  alludes  to 
Canary  only.  The  favourite  drink  of  Sir  John  Falstaff  was,  however, 
Xerez,  not  Canary  ;  and  Shakspeare  plainly  marks  the  difference  : — c  A 
good  sherru-s&ck.  hath  a  two-fold  operation  in  it :  it  ascends  me  into  the 
braine  ;  the  second  propertie  of  your  excellent  sherris  is,  the  warming  of 
the  blood '  (Hen.  IV.,  pt.  2,  act  iv.)  Whether,  now,  sack  comes  from 
8eco,  dry,  or  otherwise,  as  Ducange  expresses  it,  we  leave  to  the  learned. 
The  exportation  has  more  than  doubled  in  twenty  years,  and  that  is  the 
best  commentary  upon  its  value  and  favour.  In  1841  there  were  ex- 
ported from  Jerez  to  all  parts,  14,773  butts  of  30  arrobas  each,  value 
,£440,000;  in  1860  there  were  30,725  butts,  value  ;£]  ,400,000;  in 
1 883,  37,1 60  butts.  The  declared  value  seems  to  have  risen  steadily  until 
1882 — up  to  £2,200,000 — but  since  then  has  declined.     The  demand, 


WINE.  XlV 

however,  for  old  sherry  is  enormous  ;  and  the  prices  are  likely  to 
increase.  Moreover,  the  vintages  for  some  time  past  have  been 
scanty,  owing  to  scorching  African  winds,  absence  of  rain,  and  other 
causes.  Sherry  is  made  with  Jerez  grapes,  but  of  great  many  sorts  and 
difference  of  flavour.  The  process  for  making  this  wine  is  thus  carried 
on : — The  grapes  are  carefully  gathered  and  sorted,  and  exposed  upon 
reed  mats,  where  the  sun  dries  them ;  eight  or  ten  days  suffice,  according  to 
the  strength  of  the  sun  and  varieties  of  fruit — a  process  mentioned  by 
Hesiod,  lib.  ii,  v.  229.  The  grapes  are  then  taken  to  the  lagar,  and 
submitted  to  the  action  of  presses  (prensas),  before  which  they  are 
trampled  under  foot,  just  as  was  done  thousands  of  years  ago  in  Palestine 
(Isaiah  xvii.  10  and  Jer.  xlviii.  33),  and  by  the  Greeks  and  Romans,  and 
all  Eastern  nations,  for  where  the  sun  rules  paramount,  most  agricultural 
practices,  and  others  indeed,  never  vary  ;  and  of  these  it  may  be  truly 
said,  nil  novum  sub  sole,  as  most  inventions  and  innovations  of  the  frost- 
bitten Northerner  tend  to  making  artificial  suns  with  coals,  manures,  forests, 
glass,  etc.  The  system  of  trampling  the  grape  under  foot  was  prohibited 
in  Charlemagne's  time  (Cap.  year  800).  The  must  or  juice  (motto)  is  put 
into  botas,  where  it  undergoes  fermentation.  When  the  latter  is  com- 
pleted (in  January),  and  the  must  is  made  wine,  it  is  racked  from  the 
lees  and  left  to  itself  for  four  or  five  years — the  age  requisite  for  ex- 
portation. When  it  enters  this  stage  (maduracion),  it  is  clarified  ;  which 
process  is  done  by  dissolving  a  fatty  substance  in  the  whites  of  twenty 
eggs  per  bota,  and  the  compost  poured  into  it  and  stirred  for  mixing, 
then  allowed  to  settle,  and  afterwards  racked  off  into  another  bota  (a 
butt,  not  a  skin).  Now  an  important  operation  takes  place  ;  the  wine 
(el  caldoy  as  it  is  technically  called)  receives  a  small  addition  of  madre 
vino  (madre,  mother),  or  very  rich  old  wine,  the  crime  de  la  crime,  and 
treasured  up,  as  the  old  Dutchmen  kept  with  jealous  eye  their  bulbs  of 
tulips.  The  quantity  of  mother  wine  is  every  year  made  up  by  other 
wine,  old  too,  but  younger  than  the  alma  mater  itself.  To  bear  exporta- 
tion, a  fiftieth  or  sixtieth  part  of  brandy  is  added — that  is,  about  l°/0  > 
This  for  genuine  sherry.  Imitations  receive  5°/0  and  7°/0  of  spirit,  and 
sometimes  more. 

There  are,  under  the  sorts  of  dry  and  sweet  sherry,  two  varieties  of 
each.  1st.  Dry  Sherry — Jerez  seco,  or,  properly,  English  Sherry.  There 
is  pale,  Jerez  claro,  sometimes  called  ambar,  and  brown  or  golden,  Jerez 
oscuro.  The  former  is  generally  new  raw  wine  (from  four  to  five  years 
old) ;  the  latter  owes  its  rich  colour  to  age.  There  is  between  the  straw- 
(pajizo)  coloured  and  the  deep  golden  a  golden  sherry,  which  partakes 
of  the  nature  of  both ;  we  believe  Tio  Pepe  also  belongs  to  this  class. 
This  latter  is  as  yet  but  little  known,  and  produced  in  small  quantities  ; 
but  let  the  real  connoisseur,  whose  palate  is  not  used  up  by  fashion  and 
prejudice,  taste  it,  and  he  will  have  no  other.  The  second  is  Jerez 
Amontillado,  so  called  from  the  peculiar  highly  aromatic  filbert  or  almond- 


jtlvi  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

like  aroma  of  the  wine  grown  near  Montilla  (near  Cordova).  It  is  also 
drier  ;  the  colour  is  more  or  less  deep  pajizo,  the  lightest  being  the  oldest 
wine.  These  two  dry  sherries,  so  different  in  colour  and  flavour  and 
scent,  proceed,  however,  from  the  same  grapes  (whose  sorts  have  not  pro- 
bably been  sufficiently  studied  separately),  and  thus  often  several  botas 
contain  must  from  the  same  press,  and  yet  part  becomes  amontillado  and 
the  other  dry  sherry.  The  latter  is  richer  than  the  former,  but  inferior 
in  bouquet.  The  transformation  takes  place  during  the  first  or  second 
year  ;  by  what  means  has  never  been  ascertained.  The  amontillado  is  less 
abundant  and  dearer,  and  serves  to  enrich  poorer  sherries — that  is,  not  to 
add  cuerpo  (body),  but  aroma.  The  grapes  from  which  these  two  dry  wines 
are  made  are  exposed  to  the  sun  for  two  or  three  days  only  ;  the  sweet 
wines  require  ten  or  twelve,  so  that  they  become  almost  raisins  (pasas). 

Sweet  Sherry  consists  of  three  sorts ;  Pajarete,  Moscatel,  and  Pedro- 
Gimenez.  The  Pajarete  is  made  from  the  Pedro-Gimenez  grapes,  which  are 
sweeter  than  the  sherry  grape,  and  are  left  exposed  to  the  sun  from  ten  to 
twelve  days,  and  thus  become  in  a  way  sun-raisins,  or  pasas.  The  name 
comes  from  that  of  the  '  hamlet  of  Pajarete/  where  it  was  first  made.  There 
is  scarcely  any  difference  between  it  and  Pedro-Gimenez,  both  proceeding 
from  the  same  grape.   Its  colour  is  dark,  its  flavour  that  of  the  natural  grape. 

Moscatel  is  made  with  the  Muscat  grapes,  which  are  sweeter  still  than 
the  two  former,  and  darker  also.  There  is,  besides,  a  delicious  sweet 
sherry,  called  i  Malvasia/  superior  in  all  respects  to  Lachryma-Christi, 
not  unlike  Pajarete,  but  not  abundantly  produced,  and  dear. 

Sherries,  when  genuine,  keep  for  an  infinite  time,there  being  botas  of  one 
hundred  years  old.  Age  darkens  the  colour  of  sweet  sherries  and  lightens 
that  of  dry  ones.  The  wine  can  be  bottled  in  a  very  few  days  after  its  arrival. 

It  forms  no  deposit  (poso).  The  basis  of  adulterated  sherry  consists, 
on  an  average,  of  pale  malt,  sulphuric  acid,  flavoured  from  the  bitter 
almond  oil,  with  a  high  percentage  of  alcoholic  spirit. 

The  most  celebrated  wine  in  Spain,  after  sherry,  is  Malaga.  There 
are  two  sorts —  dry  and  sweet.  The  latter  is  the  well-known '  Mountains ' 
of  olden  time.  The  annual  produce  amounts  to  about  2,250,000  gals. 
(1  arroba  =  in  round  figures  3  \  gals.),  of  which,  however,  not  more  than 
one  half  is  exported.  The  average  price  is  £6  per  butt,  and  excellent 
Frasanejo — very  old — may  be  obtained  for  «£l  the  arroba.  About  one- 
twelfth  part  of  dry  Malaga  consists  of  brandy.  Lagrimas,  the  sweetest 
and  most  delicious  of  all,  is,  as  its  name  poetically  indicates,  the  tears 
or  droppings  of  the  ripe  grape  hung  up  and  dried  in  the  sun,  and  obtained 
without  pressure.  They  are  of  different  qualities,  varying  from  pes.  1 5  to 
pes.  25  the  arroba^  Besides  these,  several  liqueurs  and  brandies  are 
manufactured  in  the  district,  and  Curacao,  Anisette  de  Bordeaux,  etc, 
well  imitated. 

Manmnilla. — A  most  delicious,  highly  flavoured,  and  stomachic  white 
wine,  made  at  San  Lucar  de  Barrameda,  near  Cadiz,  and  so  called  from 


WINE— H1ST0R*.  xlvi 

the  light  camomile  (manzanilla)  flavour,  contained  in  the  grape.  It  is  a 
light  wine,  very  wholesome,  and  seldom  adulterated.  It  ought  to  be 
preferred  to  inferior  niade-up  sherries. 

Montilla.-~WhitQ,  dry,  exquisitely  flavoured,  made  at  Montilla,  near 
Cordova ;  deserves  to  be  better  known.  There  are  several  other  good 
light  white  wines  made  in  Cataluna — such  as  Malvasia  de  Sitjes,  Cullera, 
Alella,  Taya,  etc.     Champagne  is  made  at  Logrono  and  in  Aragon. 

Red  Wines. — The  best  vin  ordinaire,  vino  de  pcuto,  is  Valdepenas, 
near  Madrid.  Were  the  vines  better  cultivated  and  the  elaboration  better 
attended  to,  this  wine,  the  produce  of  Burgundian  vines  transplanted 
here,  would  bear  exportation  and  enjoy  great  reputation.  It  is  very  rich, 
fruity,  but  encabezado  generally.  The  Rioja  Garete,  now  very  widely 
drunk,  is  perhaps  the  best  low-priced  wine  in  bottle. 

Among  other  red  wines  we  may  mention  Arganda,  near  Madrid,  full 
bodied,  and  highly  coloured,  used  as  the  former,  to  mix  with  water, 
which,  in  Spain,  where  the  latter  is  so  exquisite,  is  to  spoil  two  good 
things.  Benicarld  (18  leagues  from  Valencia)  is  very  full-bodied,  and  so 
deeply  coloured  that  French  weak  clarets  are  dyed  and  strengthened  with 
it ;  the  native  amateurs  like  it  to  be  as  dark  as  ink,  and  they  spill  a  drop  on 
the  white  shirt-sleeve  to  see  whether  it  itains  or  not !  We  may  also  men- 
tion the  excellent  Priorato  (sweet  and  dry  sorts),  La  Rioja,  Tintilla  de  Rota 
(near  Cadiz),  Garinena  (near  Zaragoza),  FondiUon,  Aloque,  etc,  at  Alicante. 

Spanish  wines  are  exported  in  double-bottomed  casks  ;  but  the 
common  ones,  especially  red  ones,  sent  about  in  the  country,  are  contained 
in  goat-skins,  which,  when  not  tanned,  communicate  an  unpleasant  taste 
to  the  wine.  These  pellejos  or  borrachas  are  the  early  Greek  atrxbg,  the 
Roman  uter,  French  outre.  They  are  used  for  liquids  in  Arabia,  and  in 
Persia  are  saturated  with  pitch.  They  are  mentioned  in  Homer  (Oct  vi. 
78,  IL  iii.  247),  and  in  Virgil's  Georg.  ii.  384.  They  were,  however, 
introduced  into  the  north  of  Spain  by  the  Celts,  who  called  them  Cupa 
(whence  perhaps  cvbay  cuve),  (Caesar,  lib.  viii.  34).  In  some  out-of-the- 
way  districts,  the  want  of  barrels  causes  the  cosecheros,  when  the  vintage 
is  at  hand,  to  throw  the  old  wine  away  ;  and  it  is  no  conte  de  voyageur, 
that  it  often  is  used  instead  of  water  to  mix  with  mortar.  Since  the 
spread  of  the  phylloxera  an  enormous  trade  in  red  wines  has  sprung  up 
with  France  to  supply  the  demand  for  *  Bordeaux.' 

There  are  many  good  recent  Spanish  publications  upon  the  cultivation 
of  the  vine  and  the  processes  of  wine  manufacture.  Vizetelly's  l  Facts 
about  Sherry '  is  a  useful  authority  upon  one  section  of  the  trade. 

History. 

It  would  be  foreign  to  the  nature  of  this  guide-book  to  enter  into  details 
respecting  the  history  of  Spain,  which  is  suitably  noticed  in  the  local 
descriptions  further  on.  We  only  subjoin,  therefore,  a  concise  tableau 
of  the  kings,  to  assist  research. 


xiviii 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


Gothic  Spain. 


Events. 

A.D. 

< 

General  History. 

A.B. 

The    Wisigoths   or    W.     Goths, 

Invasion  of  the  Barbarians  in 

Conquest  of  Spain  by  Ataulphus 

414 

Italy,  Gaul,  etc.     . 

410-27 

The    Alani,    under    Gonderic, 

settle  in  N.E 

409 

The    Suevi,    under    Hermanric, 

settle  in  the  N.W. 

409 

The    Vandals,    under  Genseric, 

Rome  taken  by  Alaric 

410 

settle  in  S.,  pass  to  Africa,  and 

thence  to  Home. 

409 

The  Visigoths,  who  settled  in  the 

centre,  absorbed  the  other  races, 

1 

and    became    sole    undisturbed 

rulers  of  all  Spain.    Barcelona  is 

Fall  of  the  Western  Empire    . 

47* 

at   first   the   capital,  and  then 

Chronology  op  the  Gothic  Kings. 


Ataulfo 
Sigerico 
Walia . 
Teodoredo  . 
Turismundo 
Teodorico   . 
Eurico 
Alarico 
Gesaleico    . 
Amalarico  . 
Teudis,  or  Theudio 
Teudiselo    . 
Agila  . 
Atanagildo  . 
Luva,  or  Liuva  I 
Leovigildo  . 
Recaredo  I. 
Liuva?  or  Leuva  II. 
Witenco 
Gundemaro 
Sisebuto 
Recaredo  II 
Suintila 
Sisenando  . 
Chintila 

Tulga.        .        . 
Chindasuindo,  or  Chindasvinto 
Recesvinto . 
Wamba 
Ervigio 
Egica 
Witiza 
Roderik 
His  death 


A.D. 


414 
416 

4i7 
419 

45i 

454 
467 

483 
506 

5" 
53i 
548 
5So 
554 
567 
570 

587 
601 
603 
610 
612 
621 
621 
630 
636 
640 
642 
649 
672 
680 
687 
701 
710 
711 


Pope  Boniface  I. 
Attila  in  Italy 

Death  of  Oovis  in  France 
Code  of  Justinian    • 

Birth  of  Mahomet 

Heraclius,  Emperor  of  the  East 
Hijra  of  Mahomet  . 


A.  xx 


418 
447 


Pope  Gregory  II. 


5« 
533 

570 

610 
tea 


*  t 


7*5 


Duration  of  the  Gothic  Empire  in  Spain,  300  years.    The  battle  of  Jerez,  or  of  the 
Guadalete,  a.d.  711,  won  by  the  Moors,  puts  an  end  to  the  Gothic  rule. 


^ 


HISTORY. 


xlix 


Moorish  Spain. 


A.D. 


The  Berbers'  Arabs  land  at  Gib 

raltar,  under  Tank. 

The  Moorish  dynasties  are 
usually  divided  into  four  pe- 
riods:—      ..... 

x.  711  to  756— Spain  was  go- 
verned by  the  Khalifs  of  Damas- 
cus, under  Amirs  or  Sheiks 

2.  756  to  1036 — or  Khalifate  of 
Cordova,  independent  of  Da- 
mascus. Seventeen  Sultans,  all 
of  the  Ummeyah  family 

3.  X036  to  1235 — the  dynasty 
of  the  Almohaaes,  and  Almora- 
vides,  succeeded  to  the  former, 
and  the  Khalifate  of  Cordova 
fell  when  that  city  was  taker, 
by  St.  Ferdinand,  June  30,  123s 

4.  Khalifate  of  Granada  found- 
ed by  Ibnu-1-Ahmar,  1238  to  1492, 
when  the  city  surrendered  to  the 
Catholic  kings    .... 


April 
7x1 


Christian  Monarchies — Kings 
of  Asturias  and  Leon. 


Pelayo 

Favila 

Alfonso  I.,  el  Catolico 

Fruela  I. 

Aurelio    . 

Silo. 

Mauregato 

Bermudo  I.,  el  Diacono 

Alfonso  II.,  el  Casto 

Ramiro  I. 
Ordono  I. 
Alfonso  III.,  el  Magno 

Garcia     . 

Ordono  II. 

Fruela  II. 

Alfonso  IV.,  el  Monje 

Ramiro  II. 

Ordofio   . 


Sancho  I. 


Year  of 
Access. 


718 
737 
739 

21 
700 

774 
783 
789 
793 

842 
850 
866 

9x0 

9«4 
9»4 
925 
93o 
950 

955 


Christian  Monarchies. 


Spain — Kings  of 
Asturias  and  Leon. 

Year 

of 

Access. 

France. 

England. 

Rome,  etc 

Pelayo     . 
Favila 

7x8 
737 

Defeat     of     the 
Moors  at  Poitiers 

Alfonso  (el  Catolico) 

739 

(732> 

Fruela  I. . 

757 
768 

Aurelio     . 

Charlemagne  (768) 

Silo  .... 

774 
783 

Mauregato 

Bermudo  1.  (el  Dia- 

•           •• 

.            •  • 

Haroun     al     Rashid 

cono) 

789 

(780)  in  the  East. 

Alfonso  II.  (el  Casto) 

793 

•  >            •• 

•            •• 

Khalifate  of  Cordova 
(756X 

Ramiro  I. 

842 

Charles  the  Bald 
(840). 

•  •                         •  • 

Ordono  I. 

850 

Egbert  (800). 

Alfonso  III.  (el 

Magno) . 

866 

•  •                        •  • 

Alfred  the  Great 
(87t> 

Garcia      .                . 

9x0 

Ordofio  II. 

9M 

«•                        •• 

•  •                         t  • 

Abdurrahmann   III., 
Khalife  of  Cordova 
(912). 

Fruela  11. 

924 

Alfonso      IV.       (el 

Monjt)          , 

925 

GENERAL   INFORMATION. 


Christian  Monarchies — Continued. 


1 

Kingdom  of 
Castile  and  Leon. 

Year 

of 

Access. 

France. 

1 

England. 

Rome,  etc 

Ramiro  II. 

927 

Ordono  III.     .        . 

950 

Sancho  I. 

955 

Ramiro  III.     . 

967 

Bermudo  11.    . 

98a 

Hugh  Capet  (987) 

EthelredII.(978) 

Gregory  V.  (996). 

Alfonso  V. 

999 

Bermudo  III.  . 

1027 

•  •                        •* 

•  •                      •  • 

End  of  Khalifate  of 
Cordova. 

DoSa  Sancha  . 

1037 

Castile  and  Leon. 

Fernando     I.     and 

Dona  Sancha 

k>37 

Sancho  II. 

1065 

Philip  I.  ^ 

William  the  Con- 
queror. 

Pope  Gregory  VII. 

Alfonso  VI. 

X072 

•  •                      •  • 

•  •                        •  • 

The     first     Crusade 
(1095) 

Dofta  Urraca   . 

X109 

Alfonso    VII.  (Em- 

perador) 

1 126 

Louis  Vll. 

Henry  11 

Pope  Adrian  IV. 

Sancho  III.  (el  Des- 

eado) 

"57 

Alfonso  VIII. 

1158 

•  •                         • 

•  •                      •  • 

Barbarossa. 

Enrique  I. 

1214 

•                         •  • 

•  •                      •  • 

Fourth  Crusade  (1204) 

Fernando  II.    . 

1157 

•  •                      •  • 

Richard(Coeur  de 
Lion). 

Alfonso  IX. 

1187 

Dona  Berenguela    . 
San  Fernando  III. 

1214 

1217 

St  Louis. 

Henry  III. 

Pope  Innocent  IV. 

Alfonso  X.  (el  Sabio) 
Sancho      IV.       (el 

1252 

•  •                      •  • 

•  •                        •  • 

Pope  Boniface  VIII. 

Bravo)   . 

1284 

•  »                      •  • 

•  •                        •  • 

Rudolph  of  Hapsburg 
(1273) 

Fernando     IV.    (el 

Emplazado     . 

1295 

Alfonso  XI.     . 

1312 

Philip  VI. 

Edward  III. 

Pope    Benedict    VI. 

Pedro  I.  (el  Cruel)  . 

i35o 

Jean  II. 

Edward  III 

Rienzi  (1347)- 
Innocent  VI. 

Enrique  II. 

1368 

Juan  I.    .        . 

1379 

Enrique  III.    . 

1390 

Juan  II.  . 

1406 

Louis  XI. 

•  •                        •  • 

Taking  of  Constanti- 

1 

1 

nople   by  Mahomet 
II. — The  Medici  at 
Florence. 

Enrique      IV.      (el 

Impotente)     . 

1454 

•  •                        • 

•  •                        • 

Castile   and   Aragon 

Isabel  la  Catdlica    . 

1474 

Charles  VIII. 

Henry  VII. 

united  (1474) 
P.  Innocent  VIII. 

Fernando  V.    . 

z474 

Francis  I. 

Henry  VIII. 

Leo  X.,  Pope. 

Juana  (la  Loca) 

Philip  I.  . 

Charles  I.  of  Spain 

•  •                        •  • 

•  •                        • 

Battle  of  Pavia  (1525) 

1504 

•  •                        •  • 

•  •                        •  • 

Luther  (1517). 

and  V.  of  Germany 

— Carlos  Quinto     . 

1518 

Henry  II. 

Edward  VI. 

Paul  III. 

Philip  II. 

1556 

Charles  IX. 

Elisabeth. 

St     Bartholomew's     | 
Day  (1572?. 

1 


HISTORY. 


Ii 


Christian  Monarchies — Continued. 


Kingdom  of 
Castile  and  Leon. 

Year 

of 
Access. 

France. 

England. 

Rome,  etc 

Philip  III.       . 
Philip  IV. 

Charles  II. 
Philip  V.  (abdic.)    . 
Luis  I. 
Philip  V.. 
Fernando  VI.  . 
Charles  III.     . 

Charles  IV.  (abdic.) 
Fernando  VII. 
Isabel  II.  (fled)      . 
Provisional  Govern- 
ment 
Amadeo  (abdic.)    . 
Republic          • 
Alfonso  XII.  • 
Alfonso  XIII. 

X598 
162 1 

1665 
1700 
X724 

1724 
1746 

1759 

1788 
1808 

1833 

1868 
1871 

1873 
1874 
1886 

Louis  XIV. 

Louis  XV. 

Louis  XVI. 

Napoleon  I. 
Louis-Philippe. 
Napoleon  HI. 

Republic. 

Charles  I. 

Anne. 
George  III. 

William  IV. 
Victoria. 

Pope  Innocent  X. 

Pope  Dement  XI. 

Qement  XIII. 

Pius  VII. 
Gregory  XVI. 
Pius  IX. 

Uo  XIII. 

Spanish  Chronology. 

The  Roman  date  sera  (era)  was  in  use  in  Spain  until  the  12th 
century.  It  began  on  December  25.  To  make  it  correspond  with  the 
Anno  Domini,  thirty-eight  years  must  be  added  to  the  latter.  The  New 
Style  was  adopted  in  1582  ;  ten  days  must  be  added  of  the  New  Style 
to  any  day  of  accord  to  the  Old  Style.  The  Hijra  of  the  Moors  begins 
Friday,  July  16,  a.d.  622,  era  660. 

Principal  Monastic  Orders  in  Spain. 


Order. 

Founders. 

A.D. 

Observations. 

Augustines 
Benedictines     . 
Cartujos  (Carthusians) 
Franciscans 
Dominicans 
Capuchins. 
Jesuits 
Hyeronomites  . 

St  Augustine    . 

St.  Benedict 

St.  Bruno.        .    #    . 

St.  Francis  of  Assise 

St.  Domingo     . 

Mateo  Baschi   . 

San  Ignacio  de  Loyola 

Followed  the  rule  of 
St  Jerome  ;  four 
orders  ;  that  of 
Spain  founded  by 
Tnomas  of  Sienna 

• 

m    .        .                 • 

35o 

Soo 

xo86 

1209 

1215 

I53S 
1540 

X370 

In  the  reign  of  Philip   III.  there 
were  upwards  of  9000  convents,  con- 
taining  60,000   monks,  besides  988 
nunneries.     In  the  dioceses  of  Pam- 
plona and    Calahorra   alone    there 
were     more     than     20,000     monks 
and  clergy.     In^  Castile,  the  Church 
possessed  12  millions  of  fanegas  of 
land,  that  produced  161  millions  of 
reals  (end  of  17th  century).     The 
revenues   of    the    Spanish    Church 
in    1807   were    about    six   millions 
sterling. 

Books  of  Reference. — The  first  writers  who  deserve  the  name  of  historians 
are : — Zurita,  Morales,  Mendoza,  Siguenza,  Ribadeneyra,  ZuHiga,  Mariana, 
Sandoval,  Herrera,  etc.  The  best  modern  works  are  those  of  Prescott,  Robert- 
son, Denham,  St.  Hilaire,  Lafuente,  Gayangos,  Castelar,  Danvila,  Gachard, 
Cdnovas  del  Castillo.  Consult  also  the  new  Historia  General  de  Espaha,  by 
members  of  the  Academy,  published  by  El  Progreso  Editorial.  The  History  of 
Spain  to  the  Death  of  Ferdinand  the  Catholic,  by  A.  R.  Burke  (2  vols.,  Long- 
mans, 1895),  is  well-planned  and  generally  good.  For  the  same  period,  cf. 
Watts  in  the  Story  of  the  Nations  series  (Fisher  Unwin,  1893). 

d 


ill  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


Language. 


The  only  remains  of  the  language  spoken  in  Spain  at  the  dawn  oi 
history  are  prohably  to  be  found  in  the  Basque  (Euskard)  still  preserved 
in  Vizcaya  and  Guipuzcoa,  in  the  northern  parts  of  Alava  and  Navarra, 
and  in  some  portions  of  the  adjacent  French  department  of  the  Bum 
Pyrenees.  The  student  may  be  referred  to  the  works  of  Van  Eys, 
Professor  J.  Vinson,  and  especially  to  those  of  the  Prince  L.  L.  Bona- 
part,  for  information  on  this  subject.  The  last  and  most  complete 
grammar  is  in  Spanish,  by  Don  Arturo  Campion,  'Gramatica  de  los 
Cuatro  Dialectos  Literarios  de  la  Lengua  Euskara '  (Tolosa,  1884).  Be- 
sides the  Basque,  inscriptions  and  numerous  legends  on  coins,  as  late, 
probably,  as  the  3d  century  a.d.,  in  unknown  characters,  have  been 
found  almost  throughout  the  Peninsula.  The  title  'Keltiberian'  is 
often  given  to  these,  but  they  still  await  a  decipherer.  The  subject  is 
well  worth  the  attention  of  the  archaeologist,  as  the  interpretation  may 
throw  a  flood  of  light  on  the  early  histoiy  of  southern  and  western 
Europe.     (Cf.  Hubner's  Monumenta  Lingua  Ibericce,  Berlin,  1894.) 

After  the  Iberian  and  Keltiberian  and  Kelt,  the  Phoenician,  Cartha- 
ginian, and  Greek  were  the  next  foreign  races  whom  we  find  on  the 
soil  of  Spain.  They  have,  however,  left  but  few  traces  of  their  speech 
in  the  present  language. 

Far  different  was  it  with  the  succeeding  people,  the  Romans,  whose 
language  is  the  foundation  and  material  of  the  Spanish  tongues.  No 
country  was  more  completely  Latinised  than  Spain.  No  one  of  the 
Romaunce  dialects  keeps  closer  to  the  mother  tongue.  A  few  names  of 
the  Spanish  writers  of  the  silver  age  of  Latinity  will  show  how  prevalent 
the  language  must  have  been  in  Spain,  though  the  coins  and  inscriptions 
show  that  Keltiberian  still  lingered  on  beside  it.  Seneca,  Lucan, 
Martial,  Quintilian,  and  Floras  were  all  Spaniards ;  so  also  were  the 
best  of  the  earliest  Christian  Latin  poets,  Prudentius  and  Juvencus. 
After  the  Romans,  came  the  Barbarian  tribes  which  broke  up  the  empire. 
Of  these  the  Vandals  have  left  their  name  to  (V)  Andalucia ;  the 
Suevi  held  possession  of  Galicia  and  the  north-west ;  while  the  Visigoths, 
who  succeeded  them,  reigned  from  416  to  711  ajx  over  the  greater 
part  of  Spain  and  south-eastern  France.  These  have  left  far  deeper 
marks  in  the  laws  and  institutions  of  Spain  than  in  the  language.  The 
so-called  Gothic  manuscripts,  Gothic  liturgies,  Gothic  architecture,  are 
merely  names  applied  to  certain  modes  of  writing,  liturgies,  and  styles 
of  architecture  which  are  not  really  of  Gothic  origin  at  all ;  but  the  use 
of  these  terms  has  led  to  a  great  exaggeration  in  the  work  of  the  Goths 
in  Spain.  After  their  arrival,  as  before,  the  bulk  of  the  nation  remained 
linguistically  and  ethnologically  Iberian,  Kelt,  and  Roman.     The  con- 


LANGUAGE.  lift 

querors  of  the  Visigoths,  the  Arabs,  Berber  tribes,  and  Moors,  who 
ruled  in  the  south  from  the  eighth  to  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century, 
have  had  far  greater  influence  on  the  language.  A  glance  at  any 
modern  map  will  show  how  many  geographical  names,  up  to  and 
occasionally  even  beyond  the  Ebro,  are  still  Arabic.  The  glossaries  of 
Dozy  and  Engelmann  (Ley den,  1869)  and  of  Eguilaz  y  Yanguas 
(Granada,  1886)  will  show  how  many  Arabic  or  Oriental  words  were 
added  by  them  to  the  Spanish  vocabulary.  This  influence,  however, 
has  been  only  on  the  vocabulary  and  the  speech  ;  very  slightly  on  the 
grammar.  The  Jews  were  numerous  in  Spain,  even  in  Visigothic  times 
or  earlier ;  but  no  foreign  race  except  the  gypsies  has  since  taken  root  in 
the  Peninsula. 

We  may  now  take  a  brief  survey  of  the  dialects  actually  spoken  in 
the  Peninsula.  For  ordinary  travellers  these  resolve  themselves  into 
two,  the  Spanish  or  Castilian,  and  the  Portuguese.  From  the  Pyrenees, 
in  Aragon,  in  the  centre,  and  throughout  the  whole  of  the  south,  the 
Spanish  prevails.  The  Portuguese  is  spoken  in  Portugal ;  and  the 
Galician  or  Gallegan,  the  language  of  Galicia,  is  merely  a  dialect  of  the 
Portuguese.  The  Basque,  as  said  above,  obtains  only  in  las  provincial 
Vascongadas  and  in  Navarra.  The  Catalan,  which  is  a  dialect  of  the 
Provencal,  is  spoken  in  Cataluna,  Valencia,  Alicante,  and  the  Balearic 
Islea  In  addition  to  these,  there  are  the  patois,  or  Bable,  of  the  Asturias ; 
and  slighter  differences  from  the  literary  idiom  occur  in  Leon,  Aragon, 
and  Andalucia.  The  Flamenco  and  the  Germania  must  not  be  confused 
with  the  Romany,  or  true  speech  of  the  gypsies.  The  former,  in  the 
Cantos  Flamencos,  is  simply  the  Andalucian  dialect  as  spoken  by  the 
gypsies  ;  the  Germania  is  only  thieves'  slang. 

Practically  the  tourist  will  need  an  acquaintance  with  Spanish  and 
Portuguese  only,  in  his  wanderings  through  the  Peninsula.  Even 
among  the  Basques,  it  is  much  more  rare  to  find  a  Basque  in  Spain  who 
cannot  understand  Castilian  than  it  is  to  find  a  French  Basque  who 
cannot  understand  French. 

The  grammar  and  the  pronunciation  of  Spanish  are  comparatively 
easy.  The  guttural  j,  the  jota,  is  difficult  to  an  Englishman,  but  easy 
to  a  Scotch  or  Irishman ;  the  written  or  printed  h  is  not  pronounced. 
The  n  produces  the  pronunciation  of  the  gn  of  the  French  (gainer),  and 
of  the  Italian  Spagma.  There  are  twenty-eight  letters.  The  masculine 
article  is  el;  feminine,  la;  neuter,  lo;  but  for  the  sake  of  euphony  el  is 
always  used  before  a  vowel — as  el  agua  (for  la  agua),  el  azucar,  etc.  The 
augmentatives  are  expressed  by  the  final  azo,  aza ;  on,  ona ;  ote,  ota, 
added  to  the  substantive :  the  diminutives  by  ico,  tea ;  ilk,  ilia  ;  Ho, 
ita;  uelOy  vela.  The  comparatives  are — better,  mejor;  worse,  peor ; 
greater,  mayor;  lesser,  menor,  and  superior,  inferior.  The  adverbs  tan, 
«s  much,  mas,  more,  menos,  less,  are  very  constantly  used.     The  super- 


liv 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


latives  end  in  isimo,  isima ;  errimo,  errima.  The  *  is  the  usual  sign  of 
the  plural.  '  This '  is  este  ;  '  that,'  ese ;  l  that  yonder,'  aquel ;  with  the 
feminines  esta,  esa,  aqudla.  '  Mine '  is  mio  (el  mio,  etc.) ;  *  thine,' 
tuyo  (el  tuyo,  etc.) ;  '  yours/  vuestro,  or,  usually,  de  Vsted,  which  stands 
for  the  old  Vuestra  Merced, '  your  worship,'  written  in  abbreviation  Vd. 
The  accent  is  usually  on  the  last  or  the  penultimate  syllable,  and  closely 
follows  the  Latin.  In  compounds,  words,  and  inflexions  Spanish  has 
not  the  richness  of  some  of  the  more  northern  tongues.  The  vocabulary, 
however,  is  very  full,  and  it  is  long  before  a  dictionary  can  be  dispensed 
with  in  the  study  of  the  best  authors.  Still,  for  ordinary  purposes, 
Spanish  is  easy  of  acquirement,  and  without  some  knowledge  of  it  the 
greater  part  of  the  enjoyment  of  a  tour  will  be  lost.  The  best  Anglo- 
Spanish  grammars  are  :  A  Spanish  Grammar,  by  H.  Butler  Clarke  (Swan 
Sonnenschein,  1892),  and  A  Grammar  of  the  Modern  Spanish  Language, 
by  W.  J.  Knapp  (Ginn  &  Co.,  Boston,  1892).  The  two  great  Spanish 
grammars  are  the  Academia  and  Salvo,  both  excellent  The  following 
glossary  may  be  of  use. 

GLOSSARY. 


VERB  'TENER,' 
TO  HAVE,  OR  POSSESS. 

Indicative  Present. 

Yo  tengo        .    /  have 
Tu  tienes  thou  hast 

El  tiene         .    he  has 
Nosotros  tene- 

mos      .  we  have 

Vosotros  teneis  you  have 
(Usted  tiene, 
usually  used) 
Ellos  tieneu  .     they  have 

N.B.— To  have  (possessive)  is  Tener.  I  have  seen,  He  visto. 


VERB  *  HABER, 
TO  HAVE. 

Indicative  Present. 

Yo  he      .        .    /  have 
Tu  has  (familiar)  thou  hast 
El(ella)ha      .    he  (or  she)  has 
Nosotros  hemos  we  have 
Vosotros  habeis  you  have 
Ellos  ban        .    they  have 


VERB  'SER,' 
TO  BE. 

Indicative  Present 

Yo  soy    .         .    /  am 
Tu  eres  (familiar)  thou  art 
El(<5clla)es  .    he  (or  she)  is 
Nosotros  somos  we  are 
Vosotros  sois       you  are 

(more  usually 

Ustedes  son) 
Ellos  (tf  ellas)  son  they  are 


I  have  a  stick,  Tengo  un  Boston. 


The  other  tenses  are  : — 


Pret.  Imp. 
Fret.  Per. 
Plusquamperf. 

Put.  Imp. 
Put.  Per/. 

Imperativo 
Sub.  Pre/. 
Sub.  Pret.  Imp 


yo 


Yo  habia;  yo  era 
Yo  hube ;  yo  fu6 
Yo    habia   habido; 

habia  sido 
Yo  habre'  sido 
Yo    habre'   habido;    yo 

habre'  sido 
Haya  yo ;  sea  yo 
Yo  haya ;  yo  sea 
Yo  hubiera,  hahria,  hubi- 

ese ;  fuera,  scria,  fuese 


Sub.  Pret.  Per/.       . 
Sub.  Plusquamperf. 

Sub.  Put.  Imp/.    . 
Sub.  Segundo  Perf. 

Infin 

In/in.  Perf.     . 

Gerundio 


yo 


Yo    habia    habido 

haya  sido 
Yo  hubiera,  habria,  hubi- 

ese,  habido;  do.  do. 

do.  sido 
Yo  hubiere ;  yo  fuere 
Yo  hubiere  habido ;  yo 

hubiere  sido 
Haber;  ser 

Haber  habido,  haber  sido 
Habiendo;  siendo 


Monday,  Lunes 
Tuesday,  Maries 
Wednesday,  Miircoles 
Thursday,  Jueves 
Friday,  Viernes 


DAYS. 

Saturday,  Sdbado 
Sunday,  Domingo 
A  holiday,  dia  ae  fiesta 
Fast-day,  dia  de  ayuno 


Once  a-day,  una  vex  at  dia 
Each  day,  coda  dia 
To-day,  hoy 
To-morrow,  maftana 
Yesterday,  oyer 


GLOSSARY. 


U 


Febrcro 

Marzo 

Abril 


Mayo 
Junio 
Julio 
Agosto 


MONTHS. 

Sctiembre 
Octubre 
Noyiembre 
Diciembre 


A  year,  un  aflo 

A  century,  un  sigh  ^ 

A  fortnight,  una  qnincena 

A  week,  una  semafta 


NUMBERS. 


X,  UHO 

a,  dos 

3,  tree 

4,  cuatrv 

5,  cinco 

6,  j«> 
l,si*te 


8,ocAo 
9,  nueve 
xo,  oVwt 
xi,  M«cr 

12,  <&W 

13,  /rwir 


14,  catorce 

15,  quince 

16,  diex-y-seis 

17,  diez-y-siete 

18,  diex-y-ocho 

19,  diez-y-nueve 


20,  veinie 

21,  veinte-y-uno 
(or  veintiuno) 

30,  treinta 
40,  cuarenta 
50,  cincuenta 


60,  sesenta 

60,  setenta 

80,  och-enta 

90,  noventa 
100,  ciento 
1000,  »«7 
1,000,000,  **  millo* 


FRACTIONS    (LAS   FRACCIONES). 


Half,  &z  mitad 
Third,   */  tercio,  la   tercera 
Parte 


Quarter,  fourth,  */  cuarto,  la 

cuarta  parte,  etc. 
Double,  «/  <&££r 


Treble,  *7  /rr/W!f 
First,  elprimero 
Second,  elsegundo 


THE   SEASONS  (LAS   ESTACIONES). 


Spring,  laprimavera 
Summer,  ?/  verano  (or  **/*?) 
Autumn,  */  0/0A0 
Winter,  */  invierno 
Cold,  */ *fc 
Heat,  elcalor 


Rain,  As  lluvia 
Snow,  &  ttMTV 
Dry,  jv£9 

Mud,  «S  barro,  lodo 
Dust,  eipolvo 
Thunder,  */  trueno 


Lightning,  */  reldmpago 
Storm,  As  tempestad 
It  is  going  to  rain,  fa  4  //pro? 
How  cold  it  is  I  quifrio  hacel 
Too  hot,  demastado  caliente 
How  warm  I  ?«/  calorl 


To  travel,  viajar 

A  railway,  unferro  carril 

A  train,  *»  /nm 

By  the  railway-omnibus,  /pr 

*/  omnibus  delferro  carril 
The  luggage,  */  equipage 
How    many   (cofis)   parcels? 

cuantos  bultos  I 
A    baggage-receipt,  ««  Az&n 

<*W  equipage 


TRAVELLING   BY   RAILWAY. 

Booking-office, ««  despachode 

billetes 
How  is  this   station    called? 

f <ftffi  f«  llama  esta  estacion  t 
How  long  docs  the  train  stop 

here?    cuanto    tiempo    se 

detiene  aquiel  tren  t 
A  first-class  carriage,  *»  ovfc 

de  pritnera  close 


A  refreshment-room,  una /oh 

da,  buffet  (not  Spanish,  but 

used) 
To  start,  marckar,  salir 
To  arrive,  llegar 
A  porter,  unportador 
Do  we  change  carriages  here  \ 

se  cambia  aqui  de   cocht 

(or  de  tren)  f 


THE   STEAMBOAT   (EL  VAPOR). 


To  embark,  embarcarse 
To  land,   desembarcart 
tierra 


£r  d 


The  rooms,  los  cuartos 

A  floor,   un  piso,  principal, 

segundo,  baj'o,  etc. 
A  bed,  una  cama 
Are   the  sheets  dry?   estdn 

secas  las  sdbanas  f 
Clean,  limpio 
To  brush  the  clothes,  sacudir 

la  ropax  limpiar  (to  clean) 
Housemaid,  criada 
Lady's-maid,  doncella 
Valet  de  chambre,  ayuda  de 

camara 
Landlord,  el  amo,  elfondista 
The  bill,  la  cuenta 
How  much  ?  cuanto  t 


A  boat,  una  lancha 
A  berth,  un  camarote 


THE    INN    (LA   FONDA). 

Bring  the  breakfast,   Traiga 

yd.  elalmuerzo 
A  clean  towel,  una  toalla  lim- 

pia 
To  clean  the  shoes,  limpiar  el 

calzado 
A  glass,  un  vaso 
Hot  water,  agua  caliente 
Boiling  water,  agua  hirviendo 
Wash-hand  basin,  la  cofaina 

{aljofaina) 
A  bottle  of  drinking-water,  una 

botella  de  agua  para  beber 
Chair,  la  silla 

Arm-chair,  la  butaca,  el  sillon 
A  sofa,  un  sofd 


The  deck,  eipuente 
Sea-sickness,  el  ntareo 


A  sitting-room,  un  gabinete 
To  call  one  up,  despertar 
To  rise  early,  maarugar 
To    light    the  fire,  encender 

fuego 
A  chimney,  una  chimenea 
A  night-light,  una  lamparilla 
Oil,  el  aceite 
Waiter,  camarero 
Soap,  elj'abon 
W.  C.,  elescusado 
Shut  the  door,  cterre  Vd.  la 

pnerta 
Call  my  maid,  llame  Vd.  d 

mi  doncella 
Bathing-house,  casa  de  ballet 


lvi 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


THE    DINNER  (LA   COMIDA). 


Let  us  have  some  dinner  im- 
mediately, Denos  Vd.  de 
comer  en  cuanto  antes 

Dinner  is  ready,  estd  lista  la 
comida 

Beef,  came  de  vaca 

Boiled  meat,  came  cocidd 

Salt  meat,  carne  salada 

Roast,  asado 

Beer,  la  cerveza 

Bottle,  la  botella 

Biscuit,  un  bizcocho 

Bacon,  el  tocino 

Brandy,    el   aguardiente, 
cognac 

Fresn   butter,    la   manteca 
/resca 

Cheese,  elqueso 

A  chicken,  una  gallina  un 
folio 

A  chop,  una  chuleta 

A  candle,  una  vela 

Claret,  vino  de  Burdeos 

Vin  ordinaire,  vino  comun,  de 
Pasto 

To  carve,  trinckar 


Coffee,  el  cafe 

Chocolate,  el  chocolate 

A  cup  of  chocolate,  unajicara 

de  chocolate 
A  cup,  una  taza 
The  dessert,  los  postres 
The  dining-room,  el  comedor 
A  dish,  unplato 
Table  d'hdte,  la  mesa  redonda 
Where  is  my  cover?  donde 

estd  mi  cubierto  t 
An  egg,  un  huevo 
A  fresh  egg,  un  huevo  fresco 
A  fish,  eipescado 
A  fork,  un  tenedor 
Grapes,  las  uvas 
Hare,  la  liebre 
Hara;  eljamon 
A  knife,  un  cuchillo 
Lamb,  la  ternera 
A  lamp,  una  Idmpara 
A  lemon,  un  limon 
Liqueur,  el  licor 
Meat,  la  carne 
Cold  meat,  carne  fiambre 
Milk,  la  leche 


Mineral  water, el  agua  mineras 

Mutton,  elcarnero 

An  omelet,  una  tortilla 

Oysters,  las  ostras 

Pastry,  pasteleria 

A  cake,  un  pastel 

A  peacb,  un  abridor 

Potatoes,  las  patatas— papas 

A  plate,  unplato 

A  large  dish,  unafuente 

A  rabbit,  un  conejo 

A  salad,  una  ensalada 

To  serve,  servir 

A  spoon,  una  cuchara 

A  serviette,  una  servilleta 

A  tea-spoon,  una  cucharita 

Sweet,  dulce 

A  spoonful,  una  cucharada 

Soup,  la  sopa 

Sugar,  el  azucar 

Supper,  la  cena 

A  tumbler,  un  vaso 

A  wine-glass,  una  copa 

Vegetables,  las  legumbres 

Water,  elagua 

Wine,  el  vino 


THE    POST-OFFICE    (EL   CORREO). 


The  office,  or  bureau,  el  des- 

pacho 
A  letter,  una  carta 
Are  there  any  letters  for  me  ? 

hay  cartas  para  mi? 
Here  is  my  name,  este  es  mi 

apellido 


Postage  stamps,  sella  del  cor- 
reo 

Single  letter,  una  carta  sen- 
cilia 

Poste  Restante?  Las  cartas 
en  lista  t 

Is  the  office  closed  ?  estd  cer- 


rado  el  despacho  t 

Is  it  too  heavy?  hay  esceso  de 

Peso  f 
Must  this  letter  be  prepaid  1 

hay    que   franquear   esta 

carta  t 
The  postman,  el  cartero 


THE    CUSTOM-HOUSE   (LA    ADUANA). 


An  employe*,  un  empleado,  un 

vista 
Is  the  luggage  examined  here? 

seregistra  aqui  el  equipage  f 
Clothes,  la  ropa 
Worn,  usado 
For  my  own  use,  para  mi  uso 

Personal 
The  tariff,  el  reglamento 


The  duty,  los  derechos 
What  must  I  pay  ?  cuanto  hay 

que  pagart 
Contraband,  el  contrabando 
The  keys,  las  Haves 
Shut  the  trunks,  cierre  Usted 

las  maletas 
A  dressing-case,  un  nScessaire 

(not  Spanish,  but  used) 


A  carpet-bag,   un   saco  de 

noche 
A  box,  un  baul,  una  caja 
A  hat-box,  una  sombrerera 
A  very  large  box,  un  ntundo 
Linen,  roi>a  blanca 
To  search,  visitar,  registrar 
To  plomber,  poner  los  plomos 


DILIGENCE,   POSTING,   RIDING. 


Stable,  la  cuadra 

Horses  and  mules,  caballerias 

Post-house,  laparada 

Post-boy,  el  postilion,  delan- 
tero 

Driver^  el  mayoral,  conductor 

What  is  the  name  of  this  vil- 
lage? como  se  llama  este 
Pueblo  t 

Are  we  far?  estamos  lefost 

We  are  near,  estamos  cerca 


The  drag,  laplancha 

The  micanique,  el  torno 

A  wheel,  una  rueda 

The  pole,  la  lanza 

A  team  of  mules,  un  tiro  de 

mulas 
A  saddle,  una  silla 
A  racing-saddle,  un  galapago 
Stirrups,  los  estribos 
A  whip,  un  Idtigo 


Stop  I  pare  Vd. :  alto  I 
To  stop,  parar 
To  post,  correr  laposta 
A  pourboire,  unapropina 
When   shall   we   get  tc 

cuando  llegaremos  d— 
A  bridle,  una  brida 
Is  there  any  danger?  hay  pe~ 

ligrot 
Forward,  adelante 
Take  care,  tenga  Vd.  cuidade 


J 


VOCABULARY. 


lvii 


LETTER-WRITING   (PARA   E8CRIBIR   UNA   CARTA). 


A  pen,  unapiuma 
A  steel  pen,  unapiuma  de  acero 
Direction,  sobrescrUo,  senas 
Note-paper,  /o/W  de  cartas 


Envelopes,  los  sobres 

Sealing-wax,  el  lacre 

A  wafer,  una  oblea 

To  put  a  letter  into  the  P.O., 


echar  una  carta  en  el  come 
A  letter-box,  un  buson 
Take  this  letter  to  the  P.O., 

lleve  Vd.  esta  carta  alcorreo 


A   CAB    (UN   COCHB    DB   ALQUILER). 


Drive  me  to Street,  No. — , 

vaya  Usted  d  la  calle , 

numero — 

Are  you  engaged?  estd  Vd. 
desocupadot 

By  the  hour,  por  hora 


Where  is— I    donde  esta—1 
The  theatre,  el  teatro 
The  bank,  el  banco 
Cab-stand,  la  parada  de  coches 

de  alquiler 
The  museum,  gallery,  el  museo 
The  garden,  eljardin 
The  public  walk,  elpaseo 
The  palace,  el  palacio 


The  washerwoman,  la  lavan- 

dera 
An  apron,  un  delantal 
A  cap,  una  gorra 
A  collar,  un  cuello 
Cotton,  el  algodon 
A  crinoline,  un  mirinaque 
A  cravat,  una  corbata 
Dirty  linen,  ropa  sncia 
Drawers,  lot  calzonzillos 
A  dressing-gown,  una  bata 
An  under-petticoat,  una  ena- 

gua 


Stop  here,  pare  Vd.  aqut 
Go  farther,  vaya  Vd.  mas  lej'os 
Go  back,  vuelva  Vd, 
Go  fast,  vaya  Vd.  dePrisa 
Go  slower,  vaya  Va.  mds 

despacio 
By  the  course,  Por  una  correra 


What  is  the  fare?  cuantot 
It  is  too  much,  es  demasiado 
I  shall  not  pay  more,  no  pa- 

gari  mas. 
Not  engaged,  se  alquUa 
Coachman,  cocfuro 


IN    A   TOWN    (EN   UNA   CIUDAD). 


The  magistrate,  el  magistrado 

The  Mayor,  el  alcalde 

Which  is  the  way  to — T  Por 
donde  se  va  d f 

Turn  to  the  right,  vuelva  Vd. 
d  la  derecha 

Turn  to  the  left,  vuelva  Vd.  d 
la  izquierda 

A  policeman,  un  agente  de  po- 
licial unguindtlla 

THE  WASHING  (LAVAR). 

An  upper-petticoat,  un  guard- 

apies 
A  flannel  waistcoat,  un  chaleco 

interior,  deflanela 
A  napkin,  una  toalla 
A  night-shirt,  una  camisa  de 

dormir 
A    pocket-handkerchief,     un 

Pa&uelo  de  la  mano 
A  neckerchief,  lospaHuelos 
Sheets,  las  sabanas 
A  shirt,  la  camisa 


A  street,  una  calle 

A  gendarme,  unguardia  civil 

A  square,  una  plaza 

I  wish  to  see,  deseo  ver,  visitar 

I  do  not  understand,  no  com- 

prendo 
I  do  not  speak  Spanish,  no 

hablo  EspaHol 
I  am  an  Englishman,  soy  Ingles 


Stays{  el  corse,  lafaja 

Stockings,  los  calcetines,  las 
mediae 

Washing,  lavar 

Washing-bill,  la  cuenta  de  la 
ropa  limpta 

Let  us  count,  contemos 

Bring  the  clean  linen  immedi- 
ately, traiga  Vd  la  ropa 
blanca  en  cuanto  antes 

The  stains,  las  manchas 

Starch,  el  almidon 

To  iron,  pianchar. 


Prohuhciatioh.— The  following  are  the  chief  peculiarities :— <t  as  ah;  e  as  a,  and  sounded 
at  the  end  of  words ;  i  as  ee  ;  u  as  oo  ;  ci  as  thi  (tocino  pron.  totheeno) ;  cuzsqu  (Cuenca,  >rw». 
Quenka) ;  g  before  e  and  i  as  A  (Gerona,  pron.  Herona) ;  gu  as  w  (Guadalquivirt  pron. 
Wadalkeveer) ;  h  is  silent :  /  as  h  (Jerez,  pron.  Harez) ;  U  as  li  (Sevilla,  pron.  Seveelia} ;  LI 
initial  as  y  (Llama,  pron,  Yahma) ;  *  as  mi  (Senor,  pron.  Sanior) ;  qu  as  *  (Quixote,  pron. 
KehotyX 


VOCABULARY. 

A  few  useful  Wards  and  Expressions  translated  into  Spanish  for  the  us%  oj 

Tourists. 


Apple,  manzana 

Bacon,  tocino 
Bath,  te*<? 

Hot,  calienU 

- — Foot,  de  pies 
Bed,  cama 


Bedroom,  dormitorio 
Beef,  came  de  vaca 
Beer,  cerveza 
Beer-shop,  taberna 
Bill  (account),  cuenta 
Book,  libro 
Black,  negri 


Blue,  azul 
Bolster,  cabecera 
Boots,  ootas 
Bottle,  botella 
Braces,  tiranUi 
Brandy,  coKac 
Bread,  fa% 


Iviii 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


Breakfast,  almuerzo 
Bug,  chinche 
Bunch  of  grapes,  racimo 
Butter,  manteca 
Button,  boton 

Cab,  coche  de  alquiler 
Candle,  vela 
Candlestick,  candelero 
Carriage,  carnage 
Cauliflower,  coyflor 
Cheap,  barato 
Chamber-pot,  olla 
Chambermaid,  criada 
Change,  cambio 
Cheese,  queso 
Church,  i fiesta 
Claret,  vino  de  Burdeos 
Clock,  reloj 
Coat,  frac 
Coat,  frock,  levita 
Cod,  bacalao 
Coffee,  cafe 

with  milk,  con  lecke 

Comb,  peine 
Cork,  corcho 
Cork-screw,  tirabuzon 
Counterpane  or  blanket, 

mania 
Cup,  taza 
— — -  small,  tasita 
Custom-house,  aduana 
Custom-house  Officer,  adu- 

anero  or  vista 
Cutlet,  ckuleta 

Dear,  caro 

Dining-room,  comedo? 

Dirty,  sucio 

Door,  Puerto 

Drawers  (to  wear),  calzonzillos 

Drawers  (chest  of),  contoda 

Drawing-room,  sala 

Driver,  cochero 

Duck,  Pato 

Early,  iemprano 
Eating-house,  restaurant 
Egg,  huevo 

Egg,  boiled,  huevo  Posada  per 
agua 

Fish,  pescado 

Y\&L>pulga 

Flesh,  came 

Foot,  pie 

Fore  cabin,  segunda  camara 

Fork,  tenedor 

Fowl,  ave 

Fritters,  buHuelos 

Glass  (wine),  copa 
Glass  tumbler,  vaso 
Gloves,  guantes 
Goose,  ganso 
Grape,  uva 
Gravy,  salsa 
Guard  guar  da 

Hair,  pelo 
Hairdresser,  ptluqucm 


Ham,  j anion 
Hand,  mono 
Handkerchief,  pafluelo 
Hard,  duro 
Hare,  liebre 
Hat,  sombrero 
Heat,  color 
Horse,  caballo 
Hot,  caliente 

I,  Yo 

Ice,  hielo 

Ices,  helados 

Iced  water,  agua  con  hielo 

Ink,  tinta 

Key,  Have 
Kidneys,  rifUmes 
Knife,  cuckillo 

Lamp,  latnpara 
Landlord,  el  onto 
Late,  tarde 
Laundress,  lavandero 
Linen-draper,  novedades 
Liver,  higado 
Luggage,  equipage 
Luggage,  articles  of,  bultos 

Mackerel,  maquerel 
Matches  (\ucikrs),  fosforos 
Melon  (water),  sandia 
Milk,  leche 

Midnight,  medianoche 
Milliner,  tnodista 
Money,  plata 
Morning,  maftana 
Mustard,  tnostaza 
Mutton,  came  de  carnero 

Napkin,  servilleta 
Needle,  aguj'a 

Oil,  aceite 

Oil  (lamp),  aceite  de  quinque 

Oyster,  ostra 

Paper,  pafiel 

Partridge,  perdiz 

Pastry,  pasteleria 

Pear,  pera 

Peas,  guisantes 

Pen,  plunta 

Pepper,  pintienta 

Physic,  tnedicina 

Pickles,  picles 

Tic,  pastel 

Pin,  alfiler 

Pillow,  almohada 

Y\a.X&,  plato 

Plate  (silver),  plata 

Plated  goods,  plaque' 

Pork,  cerdo 

Porter,  cargador  or  mozo 

Post-office,  buzon 

Post-office  (general),  correo 

Postage  stamp,  sello 

Postman,  cartero 

Post-paid,  franqueado 

Pound,  libra 


Potato,  Potato 
Poultry,  gollinas 
Preserves,  conservas 

Railway,  camino  de  kierro 
Rat,  rata 

Reading-room,  sala  de  lectura 
Red,  Colorado 
Refreshment-room,  fonda 
Roast,  asado 

Salmon,  salmon 

Salt,  sal 

Saucer,  platillo 

Scissors,  tit  eras 

Sheets,  saoanas 

Shirt,  cantiso 

Shop,  tienda 

Sick,  enfermo 

Slippers,  chinelas 

Soax>,jabon 

Socks,  botines 

Soft,  blando 

Sole  (Ash),  lenguado 

Soup,  sopa 

Spoon,  cuchara 

Station  (railway),  estacion 

Steamboat,  vapor 

Strawberries,  fresas 

Street,  calle 

String,  cordon 

Sugar,  azucar 

Tablecloth,  cubierto 
Tea,  te 
Thread,  kilo 
Ticket,  billete 
Train,  tren 

Train,  express,  tren  espret 
Toast,  tostada 
Tobacco,  tabaco 
To-day,  hoy 
To-morrow,  maftana 
Towel,  toalla 
Trousers,  pantalones 
Turkey,  pabo 

Umbrella,  paraguas 

Veal,  came  de  ternero 

Waistcoat,  chaleco 
Waiter,  mozo 
Waiting-room,   sala    de  dx 

canso 
Washing,  ropa 
Watch,  relcj 

Water  (hot)  agua  caliente 
Water  for  feet,  agua  parr,  los 

pies 
Water-closet,  retrete 
Wick,  mecha 
White,  bianco 
Wjne,  vino 
Wine-glass,  copa 

Yellow,  amarillo 
Yesterday,  oyer 
Yon,  usted 


LITERATURE.  Kx 

Hor  fat  plural  add  x  when  the  word  ends  with  a  vowel,  and  es  when  with  a  consonant 
COMMON   EXPRESSIONS  AND   QUESTIONS. 


What,  which?  que,  cualt 
Where?  adondet 
Where  is  ?  donde  estd  t 
When  ?  cuando  f 
Will  you?  quiere  ustedt 
Have  you?  tiene  ustedt 
By  here,  for  aqui 
By  there,  par  alld 
Are  you  ?  estd  ustedt 


How?  contot 

Why?  parquet 

That,  aquel 

How  much  ?  cuanto  t 

Too  dear,  detnasiado  caro 

Can  you  ?  puede  ustedt 


■•f 


How  many  ?  cuantos  f 

How  do  you  do  f  conto  le  va  ? 

Quite  well,   thank  you,  muy 

bien  para  servir  a  usted 
Which   is    the    way   to?  por 

donde  se  va  a  ? 


yo  ecliodcmenos  ,miss)  First  floor,  Primer  piso 
I  want,  \  yo  necesito  (require)     I  Second  floor,  segundo 
yo  quiero  (desire  >         I  Make  haste,  de  prisa 


Literature. 


It  is  impossible  to  attempt  in  a  Guide  book  a  history  of  the  literature 
of  a  country,  nor  will  sensible  readers  look  for  it  here.  All  that  can  be 
done  is  to  name  the  masterpieces,  to  direct  to  the  best  sources  of  infor- 
mation about  them,  and  to  the  booksellers  where  they  may  be  most 
easily  procured. 

The  earliest  great  literary  works  of  Spain  are  the  'Poema,1  the 
1  Cr6nicas '  and  '  Romanceros  del  did/  the  *  Cantigas,'  and  *  Las  Siete 
Partidas'  of  Alfonso  the  Wise.  These  may  be  well  studied  by  those 
who  wish  to  become  acquainted  with  the  earlier  phases  of  the  language. 
In  addition  to  the  '  Poema '  Spain  has  only  one  Epic,  the  '  Araucana '  of 
Ercilla.  In  lyric  verse  the  '  Coplas '  of  Manrique  are  unrivalled  at  the 
date  (1479) ;  so,  too,  the  tragi-comedy  of  '  La  Celestina'  (1480),  in  spite 
of  its  freedom,  is  far  in  advance  of  any  drama  in  the  literature  of  other 
nations,  and  is  the  first  to  show  what  modern  comedy  might  become. 
In  later  dramatic  literature  Spain  is  very  rich.  Cervantes  (though  his 
dramas  have  been  put  into  shade  by  the  Quixote),  Lope  de  Vega, 
Alarcon,  Tirso  de  Molina,  Calderon,  and  others  are  worthy  of  all  study. 
The  fame  of  Don  Quixote  is  world-wide.  Contemporary  with  Cer- 
vantes, Gines  Perez  de  Hita  wrote  the  first  modern  historical  novel, 
'  Las  Guerras  de  Granada.'  In  another  style  the  first  part  of  *  Lazarillo 
de  Tonnes/  the  picaresque  novel  attributed  to  Hurtado  de  Mendoza,  is  a 
masterpiece.  Spain  is  rich  in  narratives  of  historical  episodes,  and 
especially  in  works  relating  to  the  conquest  of  the  Americans ;  but  there 
is  no  really  good  general  history.  For  beauty  of  language  and  expres- 
sion nothing  can  surpass  the  writings  of  the  best  mystics,  on  whatever 
side  they  wrote^ — Luis  de  Granada,  Fray  Luis  de  Leon,  or  the  almost 
Protestant  Juan  de  Vald^s.  The  student  may  usefully  study  Ticknor's 
or  Bouterwek's  histories,  Sismondi's  Literature  of  Southern  Europe^  and 
Fitzmaurice  Kelly's  History  of  Spanish  Literature  (Heinemann,  1898). 

The  modern  literature  of  Spain  is  far  from  scanty.  In  Poetry, 
Zorilla  and  Espronceda  are  excellent  disciples  of  Byron  and  Scott ;  of 
living  poets  Nunez  de  Arce  is  probably  the  best.  The  modern  drama 
is  by  no  means  so  far  behind  the  ancient  as  is  commonly  supposed. 


IX  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

The  best  pieces  of  Echegaray,  and  of  Tamayo  y  Baus,  of  the  Catalan 
dramatists,  are  well  worth  study.  The  historical  school  is  still  mainly 
occupied  with  the  collection  and  study  of  authentic  materials — a  thing 
which  has  been  possible  only  lately,  since  the  throwing  open  of  the 
archives  of  Simancas,  of  the  Indies,  and  other  great  collections  of  docu- 
ments. Foreigners  have  joined  hands  with  Spaniards  in  this  toil.  Of 
Economic  writers  we  may  mention  Colmeiro  and  Azcarate,  whose  works 
well  repay  careful  reading,  as  also  do  the  essays  of  Canovas  del  Castillo. 
The  Arabic  and  Hebrew  writers  on  Spain  are  now  zealously  studied  in 
the  country.  The  Spanish  Jews  never  forgot  the  tongue  which  they 
spoke  in  the  Peninsula ;  and  translations  of  the  Old  Testament  and 
many  curious  works  by  these  exiles  have  been  published  in  Ferrara, 
Venice,  Amsterdam,  London,  and  Constantinople.  In  the  Novel,  which 
claims  so  large  a  space  in  modern  literature,  Spain  has  some  really  good 
writers ;  and  the  best  of  these  works,  unlike  those  of  France,  may  be 
read  by  all.  The  romances  of  Fernan  Caballero  give  rose-coloured 
pictures  of  Andalucian  peasant  life.  In  beauty  of  style  Juan  Valera 
approaches  the  Mystics,  whom  he  professedly  imitates  ;  but  he  does  not 
write  for  women  only.  Perez  Gald6s  imitates  Erckmann-Chatrian  in 
his  'Episodios  Nacionales/  Jose"  Selgas,  whose  novels  are  less  known 
than  they  ought  to  be,  deserves  honourable  mention.  The  'Tales  of 
Becquer '  should  be  read  by  all  who  visit  Seville  or  Toledo.  Pereda's 
novels  describe  the  province  of  Santander,  his  '  Sotileza '  being  the  best ; 
while  the  Senora  Pardo  Bazan  does  the  same  for  Leon  and  Galicia. 
Alarcon's  finest  work,  'El  Sombrero  de  tres  Picos,'  is  a  humorous 
version  of  a  very  old  theme. 

Rarities  and  first  editions,  original  copies  of  the  older  literature, 
etc.,  can  be  procured  almost  as  well  in  London  as  in  Spain ;  for  the 
secondhand  booksellers,  as  a  rule,  know  the  full  market  values,  and  are 
not  disposed  to  sell  at  a  lower  rate.  There  is  no  lack,  however,  of 
handy  modern  editions  at  rates  to  suit  all  purses.  Spain  is  not,  like 
France  or  England,  possessed  of  only  one  great  literary  centre.  She  has 
two,  if  not  three, — Madrid,  Barcelona,  and  Seville.  First  and  cheapest 
of  these  modern  issues  are  the  tiny  but  fairly  printed  volumes  of 
the  'Biblioteca  Universal/  at  2  reals,  or  5d.  each  (Calle  Madera,  8 
Madrid).  In  these  are  to  be  found  a  really  good  selection  of  the  best 
Spanish  authors  of  all  time.  Other  excellent  collection's  are  those 
published  by  D.  Cortezo  and  Co.  of  Barcelona,  the  'Biblioteca  Clasica 
Espanola*  at  6  reals  (2  francs)  a  volume,  and  the  series  'Arte  y 
Letras/  of  more  recent  authors,  at  12  reals,  or  3  francs  the  volume. 
The  same  house  also  publish  some  good  illustrated  works.  At  Barcelona, 
too,  is  issued  a  series  of  rarer  historical  and  theological  works — 'La 
Verdadera  Ciencia  Espanola*  at  5  and  6  reals  per  volume.  At  a 
slightly  higher  price,  4  and  5  pesetas  (francs)  per  volume,  are  the 


ARCHITECTURE.  lxi 

nicely  printed  '  Coleccion  de  Escritores  Castellano^'  published  by  Dubrull 
at  Madrid,  and  the  well-known  '  Biblioteca  de  Autores  Espanoles'  in  71 
volumes,  4to,  at  about  10  pesetas  per  volume,  published  by  Rivadeneyra. 
Of  foreign  editions  we  may  mention  the  '  Coleccion  de  Autores  Espa^toles,' 
by  Brockhaus,  Leipzig,  at  3  marks  per  volume.  Students  will  do  well 
also  to  study  Professor  Gorra's  Lingua  e  Letteratura  Sgagnuola  delle 
Origini  (Milan :  Hoepli,  1897)  and  H.  Butler  Clarke's  The  Gid  Gampeador 
(London,  1897). 

Architecture. 

Spain  stands  pre-eminent  among  nations  for  the  number  and  importance 
of  its  religious,  civil,  and  military  edifices.  It  has  been  surpassed  by 
no  other  country  in  this  respect  and  equalled  by  very  few,  and  even 
these — we  mean  Italy,  Germany,  and  France — possess  neither  the  same 
variety  of  styles  nor  yet  the  first-rate  excellence  of  the  examples  of 
each.  The  different  races  that  settled  here  in  turn,  whoBe  sway  lasted 
several  centuries — the  Romans,  Goths,  and  Arabs — were  all  builders,  all 
artists,  each  with  their  own  peculiar  style.  Edifices  were,  besides,  likely 
to  be  more  numerous  in  this  than  in  most  other  countries,  in  a  land 
where  quarries  of  beautiful  soft  and  hard  stone  seemed  to  invite  the 
builder's  hand  ;  where  oak  and  pine  forests  abounded  ;  where  the  glo- 
rious light  of  sun  and  stars  give  such  relief  to  outlines,  such  depth  to 
shadows,  such  brightness  of  tints  to  stone  and  marble  ;  where  the  soft 
air,  but  rarely  moistened,  embalms  the  ruin  and  preserves  the  monument 
better  and  more  generously  than  the  hand  of  man  ;  where  rich  mines 
exist  everywhere,  and  yielded  treasures  to  defray  the  expenses  and  mate- 
rials to  heighten  the  effect. 

The  architecture  of  Spain  has  been  comparatively  free  from  that 
foreign  influence  and  fashion  which  in  other  countries  have  crippled 
native  genius.  It  may  be  said  to  have  seldom  been  imitative,  or  the 
result  of  adaptation  and  comparison.  Foreign  styles,  no  doubt,  were 
implanted  with  new  races  in  the  rich  soil  of  Spain  ;  they  grew  luxuriously, 
but  never  lost  the  standard  original  type  ;  and  when  it  did  at  any 
period  adopt  new  accessories,  not  general  forms,  the  phase  was  native — 
that  is,  belonged  to  races  predominating  exclusively  and  for  centuries  in 
Spain.  Although  placed  so  near  Italy  and  France,  yet  Spain  stood  for 
centuries  a  stranger  to  both.  Hence  that  abrupt  difference  in  art,  which 
observers  may  remark  between  France  and  Spain  as  they  cross  the 
frontiers. 

Spanish  architecture  during  the  middle  ages  was  almost  exclusively 
religious,  palaces  being  little  else  than  the  chieftain's  stronghold,  and 
public  edifices  not  required  where  the  people  were  slaves  ;  its  history 
has  been  to  a  certain  extent  that  also  of  the  Spanish  Church.  The 
vicissitudes  of  the  latter  may  be  traced  in  the  numberless  edifices  that 


Ixii  GENERAL   INFORMATION. 

were  erected  ;  the  antagonism  between  the  regular  and  secular  clergy, 
and  final  supremacy  of  the  latter,  determining  the  early  generalisation  of 
cloistered  conventual  buildings,  and  the  subsequent  erection,  in  theii 
stead,  of  parish  churches  and  cathedrals — facts  that  influenced  not  a 
little  the  architects  of  these  ages.  The  Church  was  an  imperium  in 
imperio  ;  the  cathedrals  were  the  centres  of  all  the  movement,  the  heart 
of  the  people.  Within  its  precincts  the  cortes  often  assembled,  the  kings 
were  christened,  anointed,  and  buried.  The  mystical  Autos,  or  Sacred 
Plays,  were  frequently  performed.  They  were  also  museums  of  natural 
history,  where  stuifed  animals  of  rare  species  were  carefully  preserved, 
beside  specimens  of  precious  marbles,  corals,  elephants'  tusks,  etc.,  sent 
as  presents  by  Eastern  princes  or  successful  navigators.  The  greatest 
architects,  painters,  sculptors,  were  employed  to  erect  and  decorate 
them.  The  finest  specimens  of  wood-carving,  of  iron  and  silversmiths' 
work,  and  glass,  were  to  be  sought  for  within  their  walls. 

In  Spain,  therefore,  the  student  of  architecture  has  a  great  deal  to 
see,  to  admire,  and  to  learn  ;  and  despite  the  neglect  and  vandalism 
which  have  strewn  the  land  with  ruins  and  injured  many  a  peerless 
relic,  the  number  of  edifices  extant  is  very  considerable,  and  the  state  of 
preservation  remarkable.  The  circle  is  extensive,  comprising,  as  it  does, 
so  many  periods  and  styles,  from  the  vast  proportions  of  the  Roman 
ruins  of  M^rida  and  Murviedro  ;  the  mysterious  and  gloomy  Romano- 
Byzantine  churches  of  Asturias  ;  the  pomp  of  decoration,  and  lacelike 
ornamentation,  never  surpassed  in  Baghdad  or  Damascus,  of  the  mosques 
and  palaces  of  the  Khalifs  of  Cordova,  Seville,  and  Granada  ;  the  bold- 
ness and  sveltezza  of  the  Tedesque  (Gothic)  cathedrals  of  Toledo,  Leon, 
Seville,  and  Burgos  ;  the  majestic  Graeco-Roman  of  the  Escorial,  to  end 
with  the  artistic  anarchy  and  absurd  caprices  of  the  churrigueresque  in 
modern  times.  The  domestic  architecture  has  some  very  fine  examples, 
mostly  belonging  to  the  16th  and  17th  centuries.  Their  style  is  Moro- 
Italian  in  the  South,  and  Gotho-plateresque  in  Aragon,  Catalonia,  etc. 
Seville,  Zaragoza,  Barcelona,  Segovia,  contain  several  excellent  specimens. 

The  castellated  architecture  of  Spain  has  not  been  as  yet  properly  in- 
vestigated. There  are,  nevertheless,  very  interesting  remains  of  walls, 
fortifications,  cubo-towers,  military  roads,  barracks,  magazines,  etc.,  of 
the  Roman,  Arab,  Gothic,  and  Castilian  periods  at  Almeria,  Murviedro, 
Tarragona,  the  Leonese  and  Asturian  cities,  Seville,  Granada,  Segovia, 
etc.  etc.  They  abound  in  Castile,  as  that  very  name  evinces  sufficiently  ; 
and  '  chateaux  en  Espagne/  likened  to  '  castles  in  the  air,'  was  a  saying 
which  originated  with  the  difficulties  attending  their  capture. 

We  subjoin  a  short  classification  of  Spanish  architecture,  including  a 
list  of  the  principal  examples  of  each  period  and  style,  finishing  with  a 
list  of  the  most  celebrated  architects,  the  date  in  which  they  flourished, 
and  their  most  important  works. 


ARCHITECTURE.  lxiil 


1.  Roman  Period. 


This  favourite  Roman  province  was  filled  with  splendid  monuments, 
mostly  dating  from  the  reign  of  Octavianus  to  Sept.  Severue.  They 
have  been  ill  treated  by  Goth  and  Arab.  Spanish  neglect  and  distaste 
for  yesterday  have  done  the  rest  Excavations  are  rare,  and  undertaken 
without  plan  or  funds.  The  medals  and  coins  of  that  period  are  of 
great  value,  to  complete  what  remains  and  reproduce  what  is  no  more. 

Examples. — Bridges  of  Alcantara  (the  finest),  of  Merida,  Badajoz, 
Martorell,  Tudela,  Alconetar  (near  Coria)  ;  the  Aqueducts  of  Segovia, 
Merida,  Tarragona,  Carmona,  Fuente  Ovejuna  ;  the  Military  Roads  of 
Merida  to  Cadiz,  the  Via  Lata  between  Merida  and  Salamanca,  Aldea 
Nueva  de  Banos,  Vinueso  ;  the  Walls,  Towers,  etc.,  of  Coria,  Lugo,  Tar- 
ragona, Seville  ;  Triumphal  Arches  of  Merida,  Bara,  Cabanes,  Martorell, 
Torredembarra  ;  the  Amphitheatres  of  Merida,  Murviedro,  Cartagena, 
Italica,  Acinipo,  Toledo.  Besides  the  excavations  in  Salave  Mines  and 
Pgramidal  Towers  of  Augustus,  near  El  Padron,  both  in  Asturias,  Torres 
de  Este  (Prov.  Coruna),  the  principal  cities  which  antiquaries  can  make 
headquarters  are — Merida,  Murviedro,  Italica,  Talavera  la  Vieja. 

2.  Latin-Gothic  Style,  4th  to  8th  Century. 

The  Roman  style,  as  altered  by  the  Goths,  and  with  the  Byzantine 
modifications  it  already  possessed  when  they  adopted  it.  From  conver- 
sion of  Constantine,  323  to  714,  or  Invasion  of  Arabs.  The  type  of  the 
Romano-Byzantine  and  Asturian. 

Examples. — But  few,  principally  at  Toledo.  Sr.  de  Assas'  excellent 
work  on  Toledo  ('  Album  Artistico  de  Toledo1)  may  be  consulted  and 
relied  upon.    The  Arabic  translations  are  by  S.  Gayangos. 

3.  Asturian,  8th  to  llth  Century. 

A  peculiar  style  usually  classed  as  Gothic,  but  more  truly  '  Romane,' 
allied  to  the  Romane  of  S.  France.  Apparently  an  independent  de- 
velopment of  the  Gallo-  Roman,  as  the  true  Romanesque  was  of  the 
Byzantine.  Its  characteristics  are  the  round  arch,  single  (sometimes 
three)  narrow  naves,  barrel  or  very  early-pointed  roofs,  good  foliage,  and 
occasionally  animal  enrichment.    The  '  basilica '  arrangement  is  common. 

Examples. — Santa  Maria  de  Naranco  and  San  Miguel  de  Lino  (Oviedo) 
of  9th  century ;  San  Salvador  de  Valdedios,  Penal va,  of  the  10th 
century ;  Santa  Cristina  de  Lena,  churches  of  Abamia,  Barcena,  eta, 
all  in  the  province  of  Oviedo. 

4.  Romano-Byzantine,  or  Byzantine  {Romanesque),  divided  into  2  periods : 
1st,  llth  to  12th  Century.     Dawn;  2d,  12th  to  IZth — Its  Acme. 

In  the  2d  period  the  contact  with  the  Arabs  orientalised  accessoriea 


briv  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

The  pointed  arch  appears,  and  the  transition  to  Qothic  or  Ogival  is 
evident.  It  is  always  the  original  Latin  forms,  as  modified  in  Astoria*, 
but  of  superior  art. 

Examples  of  the  1st — San  Isidoro  of  Leon,  San  Daniel  of  Qerona, 
cathedral  of  Jaca,  San  Cucufate  del  Valles  and  San  Pablo  of  Barcelona. 
Of  the  2d. — San  Juan  de  Amandi  (Asturias) ;  churches  of  Santiago, 
de  Zamora,  Veruela  (Aragon) ;  those  that  mark  the  transition  to 
Gothic  are — Cathedrals  of  Tarragona,  Salamanca,  Zamora,  Colegiata  oi 
Toro,  San  Vicente  at  Avila,  The  Norman  is  evident  in  several  churches 
of  this  period  in  N.W.  and  E.  of  Spain.  This  style,  modified  by  the 
different  races  that  introduced  it  from  Byzantium  and  Italy,  is  called 
Saxon  in  England,  Romanesque  and  Romane  in  France,  Lombard  in 
Italy,  Teutonic  in  Germany,  Norman,  etc  We  have  called  it  Byzantine 
throughout  this  work,  as  this  is  the  usual  appellation  in  Spain  and  will 
facilitate  research. 

5.  Gothic,  \Zth  to  \Qth  Century. 

It  is  called  sometimes  in  Spain  Tedesco,  as  thought  to  be  of  Germanic 
origin  ;  was  generalised  mainly  by  St.  Ferdinand  and  his  queen,  aided 
powerfully  by  French  allied  sovereigns,  foreign  bishops,  and  artists.  It 
was  not,  nevertheless,  a  mere  adoption  of  new  and  foreign  forms,  but  a 
gradual  combination  with  the  Byzantine  of  the  end  of  the  12th  century. 
There  is,  however,  little-  doubt  that  portions  of  the  finest  Gothic  cathe- 
drals in  Spain  are  admirable  copies  of  French  churches  Is  divided  into 
three  periods.  1st.  (13th  century)  Transition,  Dawn.  2d.  The  French 
Rayonnant  (14th  century),  in  all  its  purity,  majesty,  and  originality. 
3d.  The  Flamboyant,  florid,  orientalised  (15th,  and  beginning  of  16th 
century).  Was  rapidly  adopted  and  successfully  cultivated,  the  examples 
being  among  the  most  glorious  in  the  world. 

Examples  of  the  1st  (1 3th  century). — Earlier  portions  of  cathedrals  of 
Leon,  Burgos  ;  the  cathedral  of  Cuenca,  of  Segorve,  of  Corio,  of  Badajoz, 
Santa  Maria  de  la  Antigua  (at  Valladolid).  Of  the  2d  (14th  century). — 
Cathedrals  of  Leon  Burgos,  Toledo,  Murcia,  Barcelona,  Gerona,  Tortosa, 
Seu  of  Zaragoza,  Oviedo.  Of  the  3d  (1 5th  to  beginning  of  1 6th  century). — 
Cathedrals  of  Huesca,  Segovia,  Salamanca  (Nueva),  and  the  Cartuja  of 
Miraflores ;  belfries  of  the  Cathedrals  of  Burgos,  Leon,  Oviedo,  Capilla 
del  Condestable  in  the  Cathedral  of  Burgos,  etc. 

6.  Revival  or  Plateresque,  IQth  Century. 

The  Italian  dnquecento  (so  called  from  the  1 6th  century,  when  it 
sprung)  ;  the  French  Renaissance,  introduced  into  Spain  under  the 
Catholic  Kings.  The  constant  communications  and  wars  with  Italy  ;  tha 
revival  of  learning,  etc.,  aided  very  powerfully  to  its  general  adoption, 
It  was  called  estilo  plateresco,  from  its  surface-ornamentation  and  ara 


ARCHITECTURE,  lxv 

besques,  which  were  as  carefully  wrought  as  a  chiselled  piece  of  plate. 
It  might  almost  be  divided  into  Qotho-plateresque  (beginning  of  16th 
century)  and  Italian-plateresque  (end  of  16th,  beginning  of  17th). 

Examples. — Hospital  de  Santa  Cruz  (Toledo),  Colegio  Mayor  de  Santa 
Cruz  (Valladolid),  transept  of  the  cathedral  of  Cordova,  ditto  of  the 
cathedral  of  Burgos,  San  Marcos  at  Leon,  town-hall  at  Seville,  Sacristia 
Mayor  of  the  cathedral  of  Seville.  Private  houses  and  patios  at  Seville, 
Zaragoza,  Barcelona,  etc. 

7.  QroB&hRoman^  1 6th  and  17  th  Centuries. 

This  pseudo-classical  style,  never  entirely  un-Gothicised  in  Spain, 
denuded  of  all  ornamentation,  pedantic,  pagan,  and  cold,  was  generally 
adopted  in  the  reigns  of  Charles  V.  and  Philip  IL  The  imitation  was 
clumsy  in  general,  out  of  keeping  with  the  times  and  wants.  There  are, 
however,  some  exceptions  which  reveal  genius,  and  are  characterised  by 
vast  proportions  and  majesty. 

Examples. — Palace  of  Charles  V.  at  Granada ;  Escorial ;  palaces  of 
Madrid,  Aranjuez,  La  Granja  ;  S.  facade  of  Alcazar  of  Toledo  ;  cathedrals 
of  Granada,  Valladolid.  It  is  sometimes  called  estilo  de  Herrera,  from 
this  great  architect's  exclusive  use  of  it. 

The  decline  of  art  in  Spain  followed  that  of  the  monarchy.  Borro- 
mini's  school  was  followed,  and  the  principles  exaggerated.  Rococo 
became  the  '  beau  ideal,'  and  the  so-called  classic  edifices  were  over- 
loaded with  gilding,  plastered  on  wood,  marble,  and  bronze,  tortured  into 
most  ridiculous  shapes.  It  was  the  faithful  transcript  of  the  age.  Racine 
and  Corneille's  periwig — Romans  dressed  with  ruffles  and  jabot.  It  may 
be  defined  the  Gongorism  of  architecture,  just  as  Gongora's  poetry  can  be 
called  literary  churrigueresque — a  name  generally  applied  to  designate 
this  bad  taste,  as  being  that  of  Jose"  Churriguera,  an  otherwise  able 
architect,  who  used  and  generalised  it.  V.  Rodriguez,  with  others,  endea- 
voured in  vain  to  regenerate  the  style,  and  built  several  edifices  that 
evince  his  good  intentions.  The  examples  are  scattered  all  over  Spain. 
Cathedral  of  El  Pilar  at  Zaragoza  ;  palace  of  San  Telmo  at  Seville  ;  and 
most  of  the  churches  of  Madrid. 

Moorish  Architecture. 

The  fundamental  elements  belong  to  the  Romano-Byzantine  and 
Persian  schools.  Many,  if  not  all,  the  principal  characteristics  are  clearly 
defined  in  Scripture  as  already  used  in  Palestine.  The  examples  that  are 
scattered  in  the  breadth  and  length  of  the  land,  but  more  especially  in 
the  south,  are  of  the  highest  order,  and  were  never  surpassed  in  the  East, 
Sicily,  or  Africa. 

The  style  first  introduced  partook  somewhat  of  the  Berber  character, 


lxvi 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


was  simple,  soberly  decorated,  the  basilica  ground-plan  of  the  Byzantine 
being  adopted  for  mosques — great  multiplicity  of  arches,  baseless  columns, 
being  some  of  its  features  ;  then,  gradually  advancing  in  splendour,  it 
acquired  more  elegance  and  lightness  at  the  cost  of  originality.  Constant 
intercourse  with  Asia,  and  antagonistic  hatred  to  the  Christian,  prevented 
mixtures  with  Gothic,  with  which  its  love  of  detail,  minute  ornamenta- 
tion, etc.,  had  more  than  pne  similarity  ;  and  many  of  its  accessories — 
stalactite  ceilings,  horseshoe  arches,  mosaic  dados,  etc — were  readily 
adopted  by  the  victorious  Christians,  and  the  combinations  of  their  own 
with  it  were  called  Muzarabic 

Moorish  architecture  may  be  divided  into  three  periods  and  styles. 
1st,  Byzantine -Arabic  ;  2d,  Mauritane-Almohade  ;  3d,  Mudejar  or 
Granadine. 

Examples, — Of  the  1st  period  (8th  to  10th  century),  mosque  of 
Cordova,  remains  of  Medina  Azzahra,  near  Cordova,  walls  of  Ubeda,  etc. 
Of  the  2d  (11th  to  13th  century),  Giralda  of  Seville,  chapel  of  Villa- 
viciosa  in  the  cathedral  of  Cordova,  great  hall  in  the  Alcazar  of  Seville, 
remains  of  a  great  mosque  in  the  cathedral  of  Seville,  Sta.  Maria  la  Blanca 
at  Toledo.  Of  the  3d  (13th  to  15th  century),  Alcazar  of  Seville,  Alham- 
bra,  Generalife,  Cuarto  Real  (Granada),  Transito  at  Toledo,  Casa  de 
Pilatos  at  Seville,  etc. 


A  LIST  OF  THE  MOST  CELEBRATED  SPANISH  ARCHITECTS. 


Romano-Byzantine. 

Tioda.  802  ^Era,  840).  Ch.  del  Salvador  at 
Oviedo ;  San  Tirso. 

Viviano.  9th  century.  San  Pedro  de  los 
Montes. 

Gino.    980.     San  Salvador  de  Baftos. 

Vitamben  (Pedro).  1065.  San  Isidoro,  at 
Leon. 

Guiberto  Guitardo.  1x17.  Cloisters  of  San 
Pablo  del  Campo,  Barcelona. 

Mateo  (Maestro).  1160.  Portions  of  Cath., 
Santiago. 

Sanchez  (Benito).     Cath. ,  Ciudad  Rodrigo. 

Cristobal  (Pedro).  Gualterio  (probably 
Walter).    Jordan,  etc 

Gothic. 
xiii.  and  xiv.  centuries. 

1226.     Early   portions    of 


Castle  of  Bellver. 
Works  in  Navarre. 
Alcazar  of   Ciudad 


Perez   (Pedro). 
Cath.  of  Toledo. 

Salvat  (Pedro).     1309. 

A  ndrea  (Pedro).  1348. 

Arias  (Lope).      1372. 
Rodrigo. 

A  ijonso  (Rodrigo).     1390.  Cath.,  Toledo. 

Martinez  (Alfonso).  1386.  Cath.,  Seville. 

Fabra  (Layme).         1392-  Cath.,  Barcelona. 

Franch  (Juan).  1381.  Cath.,. Valencia. 

XV.  CENTURY. 

Gomez  {Alvar).     1418.     Cath.,  Toledo 


A  nequtn  de  Egos  (Belgian). 
Toledo. 


1454.     Cath., 


1494.    Cath., 


Cath.,  Seville. 

Ditto. 

Ditto. 

Ditto. 
Cath.,  Burgos. 
Works  at  Alcala  de 


Enrique  de  Egos  (his  son). 
Toledo.. 

Garcia  (Pedro).     1421. 

Norman  (Juan).   1462. 

Pedro  de  Toledo.  1472. 

Simon  (Maestro).  1496. 

Juan  Colonia.      1442. 

Gumiel  (Pedro).    1492. 
Henares. 

XVI.  CENTURY. 

HontaHon  (Juan  Gil).  1511.  Cath.,  Sala- 
manca. 

Rohan  (Guillen  de).   Ob.  1431.    Cath.,  Leon. 

Gual  (Bartolome*).  Ob.  1416.  Cath.,  Bar- 
celona. 

Comfte  (Pedro).   Ob.  i486.    Cath., Valencia. 

Revival  and  Platbresque. 

Al%  Berruguete.  1500.  Sculpture  more 
especially. 

Martin  de  Gainza.  1555.  Cas.  ReaL  (Cath., 
Seville). 

Diego  Riano.  153a  Sc.  Mayor.  (Cath., 
Seville). 

Covarrubias  (Alfonso).  1512-31.  Works  at 
Toledo. 

Escovedo  (Fray  Juan).  1481.  Works  at 
Segovia. 

Ibarra  (Pedro  de).  1521.  Works  at  Sala- 
manca. 

Ruiz  (Fernan).    1523.    Works  at  Cordova. 

Badajoz  (Juan  de).  1512.  San  Marcos, 
Leon,  etc. 


ARCHITECTURE. 


lxvii 


A  LIST  OF  THE  HOST  CELEBRATED  SPANISH  ARCHITECTS  —  Continued. 


Borgofla  (Felipe  Vigarni).  1525.  Toledo,  etc. 
Blay  (Pedro).     1435.     Works  at  Barcelona. 
Valdelvira  (Pedro  de).     1525.     Cath.,  Jaen. 


G&ACO-ROMAN. 

1526.    Palace  of  Charles 
Cath.,  Granada  and 


Machuca  (Pedro) 
V.  of  Granada. 

Siloe  (Diego).     1529. 
Malaga. 

Villaipando  (Isid. )    1560.     Divers  works. 

Toledo  (Juan  de).     1563.    EscoriaL 

Herrera  (Juan  de).     1563..    Escorial. 

Vergara  (Juan  Diego,  Nicolas,  and  Martin 
de).     1568.    Works  at  Seville  and  Toledo. 


Vega  (Luis  and  Gaspar  de).  1568.  Alcazat 
of  Seville,  etc 

Mora  ( Francisco).  1596.  Works  at  Segovia. 
Escorial,  Madrid. 

Monegro  (J.  Ba.)  1580.  Escorial,  Alcazar 
of  Toledo. 

7uoara  (Felipe).  1725.  Royal  Palace,  Ma- 
drid. 

Rodriguez  (Ventura).  1750.  Divers  works. 
Sabattni (Francisco).  1760.  Works  at  Madrid. 

.Churrigueresque. 
Churriguera,  Jose".     1725. 


The  following  Spanish  terms,  applied  to  different  portions,  etc.,  of 
churches,  will  be  found  useful  : — 

Colegiata  often  stands  for  cathedral,  as  well  as  Iglesia  Mayor.  They 
are  generally  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary.  A  collegiate  church  is 
composed  of  dignitaries  and  canons,  who  celebrate  divine  service  as  in 
cathedrals. 

Fachadas,  facades  ;  lonja,  a  long  platform  which  often  surrounds  the 
churches  exteriorly,  and  which  is  ascended  by  steps  or  grees,  escalinata  or 
gradas.  The  font  is  pila  bautismal ;  pila  de  agua  bendita  is  the  stoup 
or  font  containing  holy  water. 

Coro  (choir)  ;  trascoro,  the  back  to  it,  often  profusely  decorated  ;  the 
respaldos  del  coro  are  the  lateral  sides  of  it.  The  stalls  are  sillas,  forming 
silleria  alta  or  baja,  as  the  case  may  be.  The  chori8ters,  desks  are  called 
atriles,  the  lectern  facistol.  Transept  (Crossing),  Crucero. — Over  it  often 
rises  a  dome  or  lantern  called  cimborioy  and  from  its  shape,  media  naranja. 
The  purclose  or  railings,  rejas,  are  most  remarkably  executed,  and  deserve 
close  inspection.  The  apse,  abside,  contains  a  capilla  mayor,  with  the  high 
altar,  altar  mayor ;  the  reredos,  or  screen  rising  from  it,  is  called  retablo. 
The  latter  are  generally  very  magnificently  gilt  and  sculptured.  The  right 
side  of  the  altar — that  is,  the  right  of  the  celebrant  looking  from  the  altar 
— is  called  lado  del  evangelio;  the  left  is  lado  de  la  epistola.  Most  cathe- 
drals have  a  parish  church,  parroquia  {cur a  parroco  is  a  parish  priest), 
attached  to  them,  and  a  capilla  real,  for  the  entombment  of  princes.  The 
chapter  is  el  cabildo.  The  sagrario  is  a  special  chapel,  where  the  Holy  of 
Holies  is  often  placed,  de  manifesto,  or  displayed.  The  vestry  is  la  sacristia, 
the  sexton  el  sacristan.  The  relics,  vestments,  plate,  etc.,  are  kept  in  what 
is  called  el  relicario.  Monaguillos  are  the  choir  boys.  Misa  Mayor,  High 
Mass.     The  belfry  is  la  torre9  el  campanario. 

The  principal  objects  to  see  in  a  Spanish  church  are  :  the  high  altar, 
stalls  in  the  choir,  lateral  chapels,  the  relics  and  vestments  in  the  sacristia. 
Ask  for  the  sacristan,  and  explain  the  object  of  your  visit.  In  case  of 
unwillingness,  address  yourself  to  any  priest  attached  to  the  church.  The 
fee  may  vary  from  a  peseta  to  five  francs.     In  a  cathedral,  the  Sacristan 


lxviii  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Mayor  must  be  applied  to.  The  hours  to  visit  are  from  8  aji.  to  1 2,  and 
from  4  to  5  J  p.m.  The  finest  rejas  are  by  T.  Ba.  Celma,  1600  ;  Villal- 
pando  (Fco.),  1561  ;  Cristobal  Andino,  1540.  The  finest  church  plate, 
custodias  (where  the  Host  is  kept  on  festivals),  calices,  or  sacramental  cups, 
etc.,  are  by  the  Arfes  of  Valladolid,  1500  ;  Becerril,  1534  ;  Juan  Ruiz, 
1533,  etc  The  painted  glass  is  among  the  most  splendid  in  Europe, 
though  not  often  met  with,  as  it  was  not  a  Spanish  art,  but  imported  from 
France,  Belgium,  and  Germany.  It  was  practised  by  Spaniards  in  the 
middle  of  the  15th  century.  The  earliest  and  finest  examples  date 
from  1418  to  1560,  and  are  to  be  sought  in  the  cathedrals  of  Toledo, 
Leon,  Seville,  Burgos,  Barcelona,  etc  The  composition  is  usually  simple, 
vigorously  conceived,  broadly  executed  ;  the  forms  following  those  of  the 
sculpture,  that  served  as  models  ;  the  colouring  very  rich  and  deep.  The 
ornamentation  at  its  earliest  period  was  treated  conventionally,  in  later 
periods  nature  was  more  directly  imitated  ;  shades  and  shadows  were 
introduced,  and  Moorish  details  mixed  with  the  Gothic 
The  principal  vidrieros,  or  painters  on  glass,  were  : — 

Dolfin  (Maese).    14x8.    Cath.,  Toledo. 

Holanda  (Alberto  de).  1590.  Cath.  Avila, 
Chapel. 

Holanda  (Nicolas  de),  his  son.    1535.    Ditto. 

Vasco  de  Troya.     1503.     Cath.,  Toledo. 

Cordova  (Gonzalo  de).  1510-13.  The  best 
work  in  Cath.,  Toledo. 

Vergara  (Nicolas  de).  1542,  and  his  sons, 
Nicolas  and  Juan,  1574-90.    Cath.,  Toledo. 

List  of  Books  of  Reference  on  Spanish  Architecture. 

1.  'Ensayo,  Historico  sobre  los  diversos  Generos  de  Arquitectura,  etc.,  en 
Espafia,'  by  Jose*  Caveda  ;  Madrid,  Saunague,  1848,  1  vol.  Carefully  written, 
more  literary  than  critical. 

2.  '  Sumario  de  las  Antiguedades  Romanas  en  Espafia,'  by  J.  A.  Cean 
Bermudez,  1  vol.  fol.  ;  Madrid,  1832.  Very  useful  and  reliable;  the  indexes 
well  drawn  up.  This,  with  'Ponz's  Morales'  and  Carballo's  works,  and 
Florez's  Espafia  Sagradat  etc. ,  forms  an  indispensable  collection  to  antiquaries. 
The  works  of  Yepes,  Argaiz,  Sandoval,  and  Berganza  may  be  also  consulted. 

3.  'Noticia  de  los  Arquitectos  y  Arquitectura,'  by  J.  A.  C.  Bermudez;  4  vols. 
4to ;  Madrid,  1829.  It  is  an  improved  edition  of  that  written  by  Llaguno  y 
Amfrola,  useful  and  reliable,  but  devoid  of  critical  investigation,  and  written 
with  that  ignorance  and  indifference  of  the  early  styles  which  were  current  in 
his  time. 

4.  *  Espafia  Artistica  y  Monumental,'  3  fol.  vols.  ;  published  at  Paris ; 
1846,  by  Villamil.  The  drawings  are  the  only  important  portion,  and  by 
Carderera,  whose  knowledge  of  Spanish  art  is  well  known.  The  work  com- 
prises only  the  Castiles. 

5.  'Some  Account  of  Gothic  Architecture  in  Spain'  by  G.  E.  Street, 
London,  J.  Murray,  1 865  ;  most  competently  written  by  this  the  able  authoi 
of  Brick  and  Marble  Architecture  in  ftafy,  and  profusely  illustrated.  The 
author  has  omitted  the  Arch,  of  S.  and  S.W.  of  Spain.  His  judgment  is 
somewhat  biassed  by  too  exclusive  a  preference  for  one  or  two  styles. 


Micer Cristobal A  lemon.  1504.  Cath.,  Se- 
ville.   The  finest  in  Spain. 

Maestro  (Enrique).     1478.     Ditto. 

Celandia  (Bernardo  de).  1518.  H.  Chapel, 
Seville. 

A  rnao  de  Flandes.    1525.     Cath.,  Seville. 

Vicente  Menandro.  x  560^69.  Cath. ,  Seville. 
One  of  the  best  painters. 

Diego  de  Valdivieso.  1562.  Cath.,  Cuenca, 
etc.  etc. 


PAINTINGS.  bdx 

6.  'Monumentos  Arquitectonicos  de  EspaRa,'  etc.,  published  by  the  Spanish 
Government  orders,  Madrid  1859-68.  This  great  work,  most  valuable  and 
splendidly  got  up,  is  in  course  of  publication.  Want  of  method,  and,  it  is  to  be 
expected,  eventual  want  of  funds,  will  make  this,  an  otherwise  most  valuable 
work,  comparatively  a  failure. 

1  Recuerdos  y  Bellezas  de  Espafla,'  in  several  vols.,  by  Madrazo,  Quadrado, 
etc.  The  drawings  by  Parcerisa.  The  text  is  generally  indifferent.  A  volume 
for  each  province.  '  Toledo  Pinteresco '  and  '  Album  Artistico  de  Toledo '  (see 
Toledo)  are  valuable  works  on  the  Gothic,  Romano-Byzantine,  and  Moorish 
remains  in  that  city.  The  Moorish  architecture  can  be  fully  studied  in 
Owen  Jones'  'Plans  etc.,  of  the  Alhambra,'  London,  1842.  It  is  considered 
one  of  the  most  important  and  accurate  works  that  has  ever  been  written  on 
Moorish  art.  'The  Alhambra  Court  in  the  Crystal  Palace,'  one  vol.  (6d.) 
1854,  is  the  substance  of  that  able  architect's  larger  work.  '  Antiguedades 
ArabcsJ  by  Lozano,  4  vols.  1785,  2  editions;  it  has  been  copied  by  Murphy 
in  his  'Arabian  Antiquities,'  London,  1816.  '  Erinnerungen  von  Wilhelm  von 
Gail,'  Munich  ;  magnificently  got  up.  Upon  Arabic  architecture  the  '  Discurso' 
of  Senor  Riano  at  the  Academy  of  San  Fernando,  16th  May  1880  (Arriban, 
Madrid)  will  be  found  useful.  The  same  author's  'The  Industrial  Arts  of 
Spain '  (London,  Chapman  and  Hall)  now  embraces  most  of  the  provinces,  and 
is  well  done.  Didron's  valuable  '  Iconographie '  will  be  of  use  to  amateurs  in 
explaining  several  passages  that  appear  dimly  in  the  stone  pages  of  the  early 
Romano-Byzantine  and  early  Gothic,  dead  languages  now  with  us.  Mr. 
Fergusson's  '111.  Handbook  of  Architecture'  will  prove  useful.  There  are, 
besides,  several  minor  works  and  papers  :  Mr.  Waring's  *  Architectural  Studies 
in  Burgos,'  etc. ;  '  Sketches  in  Spain,  from  Nature,  Art,  and  Life,'  John  Lomas, 
1884,  etc.  A  new  work  by  Corteza  of  Barcelona,  'Espana  :  sus  Monumentos 
y  Artes,'  is  good. 


Paintings. 

Painting  has  not  followed  in  Spain  the  gradual  growth  that  is  notice- 
able elsewhere ;  its  period  was  indeed  most  glorious,  but  resembled 
that  of  a  meteor,  and  after  a  short  reign  of  splendour,  passed  away, 
leaving  no  traces  behind.  Spanish  art  was  never  cultivated  for  its  own 
sake,  but  as  merely  instrumental  in  illustrating  the  most  striking  subjects 
of  religion.  The  early  period  of  Spanish  painting,  if  any  distinct  one  can 
be  traced,  followed  the  character  and  fate  of  sculpture.  As  long  as  the 
church  was  truly  militant,  all  those  features  that  characterised  the 
hostile  rival  religion  of  the  Pagans  were  carefully  proscribed.  Moses, 
Mahomet,  Luther,  were  all  opposed  to  images  of  the  Deity,  and  the  early 
Council  of  Hliberis  (near  Granada),  in  its  36th  Canon,  says — *  Placuit 
picturas  in  ecclesia  esse  non  debere,  ne  quod  colitur  et  adoratur  in 
parietibus  depingatur.'  When,  however,  the  church  became  triumphant, 
sculpture  and  painting  were  largely  resorted  to.  Images  of  saints,  and 
that  of  the  Virgin  more  especially,  were  rapidly  multiplied,  and  have  to 
this  day  superseded  that  of  God.  Painting  in  its  earlier  period  was 
strictly  sculptural  and  conventional     It  was  used  to  decorate  crypts,  the 


lxx  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

apse,  with  subjects  from  the  Old  Testament,  and  the  ordinary  ones  of 
saints,  the  Creation  of  the  World,  Paradise,  the  Last  Judgment,  and 
Purgatory.     The  miniature  painting  in  the  missals,  in  the  illuminated 
MSS.,  and  on  the  stained  glass,  must  have  influenced  its  style  and  developed 
its  resources.     We  think  that  early  Byzantine  painters  were  the  first 
models  that  were  copied  from,  and  that  Flemish  and 'German  painting 
was  not  without  influence  during  the  14th  and  15th  centuries,  and  that 
from  that  period  henceforth  the  elements  were  either  completely  national 
or  borrowed  from  Italy.     The  principal  period  of  Spanish  painting  is 
between  the  16  th  and  17  th  centuries.     The  power  and  wealth  of  the 
enlightened  churchmen  that  were  its  most  munificent  patrons,  the  pros- 
perity of  the  monarchy-  at  that  time,  the  constant  intercourse  with  Italy, 
the  influence  of  the  renaissance,  and,  not  a  little,  the  high  favour  that 
foreign  artists  enjoyed  at  the  Courts  of  Charles  V.  and  the  Philips  con- 
tributed most  powerfully  in  creating  emulation  and  raising  the  national 
schools  to  great  eminence  and  repute.     Artists  were  treated  on  the  same 
footing  as  the  haughty  warriors,  the  aristocracy  of  blood.     Art  followed, 
as  usual,  the  fate  of  the  Empire,  and  declined  when  the  sun  of  the  House 
of  Austria  went  down.     Under  the  Bourbons,  the  French  school  was 
servilely  copied,  and  has  continued  to  be  so  to  this  day.     The  Royal 
Academy  of  San  Fernando  has  produced  no  genius.     There  are  yearly 
exhibitions,  juries,  prizes,  and  speeches,  but  few  purchasers  to  encourage 
and  reward   the  merit  often  displayed.     Tet  the  land  can  boast  of 
imperishable  names  ; — Moro,  Coello,  Juan  de  Juanes,  Navarrete  El  Mudo, 
Ribera,  Ribalta,  Velazquez,  Murillo,  Zurbaran,  Cano,  Roelas,  and  Valdes 
Leal  in  the  palmy  days  of  its  art  life  ;  while  Goya,  Fortuny,  Madrazo, 
Pradera,  and  others  represent  a  revival  in  our  day. 

On  the  1 3th  of  June  1 844,  a  royal  decree  established  a  central  com- 
mission, '  de  Monumentos  Historicos  y  Artisticos  del  Reino.'  The  section 
for  painting  applied  its  labours  to  collecting  the  best  pictures  that  had 
been  overlooked  by  foreign  dealers  and  amateurs  at  the  suppression  of 
convents  and  the  time  of  civil  war.  About  4500  pictures,  mostly 
rubbish,  were  collected,  and  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  different  Museos 
Provinciales  that  were  established  at  several  of  the  most  important  cities, 
the  principal  of  which  are  those  of  Madrid,  Seville,  Valencia,  and 
Valladolid.  Besides  these,  the  Royal  Museo  at  Madrid,  the  Royal  Palace 
there,  and  the  pictures  scattered  in  the  noblemen's  mansions  in  the 
metropolis,  there  are  few  important  collections.  Many  of  the  finest 
Spanish  pictures  decorate  the  galleries  of  English  noblemen,  and  others 
are  to  be  seen  in  the  Louvre. 

Spanish  painting  differs  widely  in  style  from  any  other.  Its  charac- 
teristic is,  we  should  say,  naturalism,  realism,  in  one  sense  of  the  word. 
It  is  characterised  by  monotony  of  subject,  of  handling,  and  of  colouring. 
Spanish  painters  studied  man,  not  nature,  and  of  man  only  two  types  oz 
varieties  of  the  hero— viz.  the  martyr  and  the  warrior :  but  the  former 


PAINTINGS.  lxxi 

almost  exclusively.     Home  and  rural  scenes  are  generally  wanting.     Its 
productions  bear  the  stamp  of  the  solemn  and  ascetic  spirit  and  heavy 
gloom  that   pervaded   the   cloister.     The   study  of   the   treatment   of 
Madonnas  by  Raphael,  compared  with  that  of  the  same  subject  by 
Murillo,   will  teach   more  than  volumes ;  for  while  the  latter  in  his 
images  of  Virgins  *  raised  a  mortal  to  the  skies,'  the  former  always  *  drew 
an  angel  down  ;'  and  most  of  the  Spanish  pictures  of  saints  were  portraits. 
This  monotony  of  subjects,  arising  from  want  of  imagination,  as  well  as 
from  the  invariable  nature  of  the  demand,  is  clearly  evidenced  in  the  list 
of  the  pictures  of  any  Spanish  master.     Zurbaran's  Carthusians,  Roelas' 
Jesuits,  Murillo's  Concepciones  and  Infant  Deities,  Ribera's  Martyrdoms, 
Juanes'  well-known  Heads  of  Christ,  and  most  others,  excepting  Velazquez, 
who  was  Italian  in  many  things.     Animal  life  they  knew  little  of, 
though  the  few  bodegones  that  exiBt  reveal  their  proficiency  in  that  line. 
Sea  paintings  were  equally  overlooked  by  painters  born  in  a  peninsula 
whose  shores  are  so  varied  in  aspect,  so  full  of  character,  and  picturesque. 
Landscape  was  treated  only  as  an   accessory,  and  seldom  resorted  to. 
Velazquez  painted  a  few,  but  they  are  merely  views  intended  as  frames  to 
groups.     Iriarte  (1620)  who,  Murillo  said,  was  worthy  of  painting  scenery 
in   Paradise,  was  the  only  landscape   painter,  and  he  painted  nature 
unnaturally ;  and  in  modern  days,  Villamil,  though  effective  and  improved 
by  the  study  of  Roberts,  is  stiff,  pseudo-classical,  and  places  nature  always 
'  en  scene.'     The  colouring  is  also  monotonous,  being  that  suggested  by 
nature  around  ;  the  blues  are,  of  course,  very  beautiful,  rich,  deep,  and 
luminous — those  of  the  sky  ;  the  tawny  red-burnt  soil  has  indicated  a 
similar  colour  ;  the  greens,  that  only  exist  in  Asturias,  where  there  never 
was  much  art,  are,  consequently,  poor  and  defective.     In  general  they 
will,  on  close  examination,  appear  greater  draughtsmen  than  colourists. 
A  quality  of  Spanish  painters,  never  surpassed  and  seldom  equalled  even 
by  the  best  Italian  masters,  lies  in  the  cast  of  the  draperies,  for  which 
the  long  and  many-folded  dresses  of  the  monks,  and  the  cwpa  universally 
worn,  were  such  good  models.     Mr.  Schepeler  thinks,  however,  that  in 
this  respect  they  never  attained  to  the  simplicity  and  dignity  exemplified 
by  the  Italians  in  their  draperies,  and  evinced  even  in  the  fantastic 
tubular  folds  of  the  German  school.     There  are  in  Spanish  pictures  extra- 
ordinary life,  truth  to  nature,  a  deep  feeling  of  piety,  and  a  simplicity 
and  power  that  speak  to  the  heart  of  the  observer. 

The  composition  is  generally  excellent  and  simple,  though  evincing 
carelessness  in  the  handling  of  secondary  figures,  and  failing  in  the  few 
instances  of  large  groups  and  complicated  action.  The  background  is 
deficient,  the  details  most  correct  and  minute.  Such  are,  we  think,  the 
principal  characteristics  of  Spanish  painting.  As  commentators  of  Chris- 
tian mythology,  as  portrait-painters,  the  Spanish  masters  stand  unrivalled  j 
and  such  glorious  names  as  Velazquez,  Murillo,  Zurbaran,  and  Alfonso 
Cano  are  sufficient  to  assign  to  the  schools  of  Spain  the  first  rank  after 


lxxu  GENE&AL  information. 

those  of  Italy,  and  place  them  on  a  par  with  those  of  Germany,  Flanders, 
and  Holland.  Spanish  painting  may  he  divided  into  three  great 
schools,  viz.,  Seville,  Madrid,  Valencia,  which  are  in  turn  susceptible  of 
subdivisions,  such  as  Aragonese,  Catalonian,  Estremadura,  etc.  Their 
differences  of  style  are  not,  however,  clearly  defined. 

School  of  Valencia, 

Juan  de  Juanes  (or  Joanes),  born  at  Fuente  la  Higuera  (province  of 
Valencia)  in  1523  ;  died  at  Bocairente,  December  21,  1679.  His  real 
name  was  Macip  ;  he  Latinised  his  Christian  name  according  to  the 
habit  of  the  age.  He  studied  at  Rome,  and  was  a  pupil  of  Giulio  Ro- 
mano and  Perin  del  Vaga.  Subjects,— Saviour's  Heads,  Lives  of  the 
Saints.  Style. — The  founder  of  the  schooL  He  was  one  of  the  first  to 
introduce  the  knowledge  of  Italian  art  into  Spain,  and  was  considered  by 
some'  as  Raphael's  most  successful  imitator.  Correct  drawing,  good 
modelling,  power  of  expression  ;  his  perspective  falls  rather  short,  but  is 
exact  to  truth.  His  colouring  is  warm,  golden,  luminous  ;  his  draperies 
elegantly  folded  ;  the  details,  even  the  hair  and  beard,  most  delicately 
touched.  His  Christs  and  saints  have  all  an  expression  of  mystic  inspira- 
tion, love,  and  tender  softness.  Principal  Works. — These  are  at  the 
Public  Picture  Galleries  of  Valencia ;  also  in  the  Cathedral,  and  the 
Church  of  San  Nicolas  ;  at  the  Picture  Gallery  of  Madrid  a  Last  Supper, 
No.  755,  and  portrait  of  Castelvy,  No.  754.  N.B. — He  had  a  son,  Juan 
Vicente  Joanes,  who  imitated  his  father's  style. 

Francisco  Ribalta,  born  at  Castellon  de  la  Plana  (province  of  Valencia) 
1551  ;  died  Jan.  14,  1628,  at  Valencia.  He  studied  first  at  Valencia, 
then  at  Rome,  under  the  Caracci.  Style. — Imitated  the  Bolognese 
masters,  and  his  style  is  after  Sebastian  del  Piombo.  His  reds  are  those 
of  the  soil  of  the  rich  Huerta  of  Valencia  ;  fine  attitudes,  good  composi- 
tion, deep  knowledge  of  anatomical  drawing.  Principal  Works. — At  the 
Picture  Gallery  at  Valencia,  at  Corpus  Christi  College  at  Valencia,  and 
Four  Evangelists  at  the  Picture  Gallery  of  Madrid. 

Juan  Ribalta  (his  son),  born  1579  ;  died  1628.  Pupil  of  his  father, 
and  painted  so  like  him  that  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  detect  the  differ- 
ence. Pictures  by  him  may  be  seen  at  Valencia  and  Madrid  Picture  Gal- 
lery, and  a  Crucifixion  at  S.  Miguel  de  los  Reyes,  at  Valencia. 

Jose*  Ribera  (II  Spagnoletto),  born  at  Jdtiva,  January  12,  1588 ;  died 
at  Naples,  1656.  Pupil  of  Ribalta.  Studied  principally  in  Italy  under 
Caravaggio  and  the  naturalists.  Style. — Martyrdoms  and  Lives  of  the 
Saints.  Adopted  three  styles — 1.  when  he  studied  Caravaggio  ;  2.  when 
he  imitated  Correggio  ;  3.  more  personal,  greater  expression  in  physical 
pain  and  moral  beatitude,  power  of  drawing,  profound  knowledge  of 
anatomy.  Great  force  of  colour  and  effect.  Principal  Works. — At 
Madrid  Picture  Gallery,  No  989,  Martyrdom  of  St  Bartholomew  ;  982, 
Jacob's  Ladder  ;  1004,  Prometheus  ;  986,  a  dead  Christ.     At  Osuna,  & 


PAINTING — SCHOOL  OF  TOLEDO.  lxxiii 

Crucifixion  ;  at  Salamanca,  a  Conception  and  several  others.    His  finest, 
a  Pieta,  is  in  San  Martino  at  Naples. 

Jacinto  Geronimo  Espinosa,  born  at  Cocentaina  (province  of  Valencia) 
1600  ;  died  1680  ;  son  of  Rodriguez,  also  a  painter,  and  pupil  of  Ribalta 
(Miguel  Espinosa,  his  son).  Style. — Excellence  of  drawing,  well  chosen 
and  natural  attitudes  of  his  figures,  power  of  chiaro-oscuro.  He  imitated 
the  Caracci  school  Principal  Pictures. — At  the  Picture  Gallery  at  Va- 
lencia and  Madrid,  where  a  Magdalen  (No.  722),  and  Mocking  of  Christ 
(No  723),  Transfiguration,  and  Death  of  St.  Luis  Beltran,  are  to  be  seen. 

Pedro  Orrente,  born  at  Montealegre  (province  of  Murcia)  1560  ; 
died  at  Toledo  in  1644.  Style. — Imitated  Bassano  successfully  ;  a 
good  colourist ;  painted  principally  cattle  and  Adorations  of  Shepherds. 
Principal  Works. — At  Picture  Gallery,  Valencia  (five  pictures),  and 
at  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid. 

Esteban  March,  died  1660.  He  was  pupil  of  Orrente.  KB. — A 
son  of  his,  Miguel,  also  painted,  and  died  at  Valencia,  1670.  Style. — 
Imitated  Orrente  and  Bassano.  His  usual  subjects  battles  and  soldier- 
life  ;  his  execution  free  and  powerful.  Principal  Works. — At  Valencia 
and  Madrid,  where  is  his  Camp  (No.  781) 

Pablo  PontonSyWaa  a  pupil  of  Orrente   His  works  only  seen  at  Valencia. 

Zarinena — Several  painters  of  this  name.  Of  inferior  merit,  and 
principally  seen  at  Valencia. 

School  of  Toledo. 

Fernan  Gonzalez  (1400). 

Juan  Alfon  (1418).  Painted  several  retablos  at  the  Cathedral  of 
Toledo. 

Pedro  Berruguete'.  Father  of  Alonzo,  the  great  sculptor,  and  painter, 
and  architect. 

Antonio  del  Rincon,  born  at  Guadalajara  1446.  His  works  are  few. 
Portraits  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  at  Chapel  de  la  Antigua,  Cathedral 
of  Granada.  Some  of  the  richness  and  transparency  of  the  Venetian 
SchooL 

Fernando  del  Rincon. — Son  and  pupil  of  former.  No  work  known. 
He  worked  with  Juan  de  Borgona  at  the  great  retablo  of  the  Cathedral 
of  Toleda,  and  at  Alcala  de  Henares. 

Comontes,  born  1495  ;  died  1529.  Antonio  and  lingo,  who  were 
brothers,  were  both  scholars  of  Ant.  del  Rincon.  Inigo  painted  the 
history  of  Pilate  on  the  wall  at  the  side  of  one  of  the  doors  of  the 
cathedral  of  Toledo,  etc.  Francisco,  also  a  painter,  son  of  Inigo  (died 
1565),  was  painter  to  the  Chapter  of  Toledo  in  1547. 

Luis  Morales  (surnamed  '  el  Divino*  as  much  from  the  subjects  he 
treated  as  from  the  excellence  of  the  execution),  born  at  Badajoz  1509  j 
died  at  Badajoz  1566.  No  picture  of  his  earlier  than  1546.  Style. — 
Might  be  called  the  Spanish  Perugino  ;  colouring  warm  and  brilliant 


lxxiv  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

His  pictures  of  Christ  breathe  the  most  sublime  expression  of  self- 
sacrifice  and  resigned  love  ;  hard  in  the  outlines  ;  his  modelling  wants 
relief ;  too  minute  in  details,  such  as  the  hair  and  beard  ;  good  ana- 
tomy, correct  drawing,  and  the  half-tints  very  well  understood  and 
rendered.  Principal  Pictures. —  At  Madrid  Picture  Gallery,  which 
contains  six  specimens  ;  sacristy  of  church  at  Osuna  :  at  Alcantara,  over 
high  altar  of  the  church  of  the  convent  of  the  order  ;  at  cathedral  of 
Badajoz,  and  at  parish  church  of  Arroyo  del  Puerco,  a  village  between 
Menda  and  Placencia,  where  there  are  sixteen  of  the  finest  he  ever 
painted. 

Bias  del  Prado,  born  at  Toledo  1497  ;  died  about  1593.  Contem- 
porary of  the  former,  and  said  to  have  been  a  pupil  of  Berruguete. 
Works. —  Founding  of  the  Church  of  Our  Lady  of  Loretto,  at  Royal 
Academy,  Madrid,  and  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid,  No.  944. 

Sanchez-Cotan,  his  pupil. — Painted  illustrations  of  lives  of  Saints  in 
cloisters  of  Carthusian  convents  (Granada,  etc.) 

Luis  de  Carbajal,  or  Carabajal,  born  at  Toledo  1534 ;  died  about  and 
after  1613.  Painted  with  Bias  del  Prado  at  Toleda,  at  the  Escorial,  and 
the  Pardo.  A  Magdalen  by  him  is  to  be  seen  at  the  Madrid  Picture 
Gallery. 

Domenico  Theotocopuli  (El  Greco),  born  in  Greece,  studied  under 
Titian.  He  lived  at  Toledo  in  1577,  and  died  there  1625  ;  also  a  good 
sculptor  and  architect.  His  son,  Jorge  Manuel  Theotocopuli,  was  a 
sculptor  and  architect.  Style. — At  first  imitated  Titian  successfully. 
The  personal  second  style  he  adopted  was  extravagant  in  length,  and 
often  in  composition  ;  his  colouring  ashen-grey  ;  it  was  marked  by  great 
affectation.  His  last  manner,  when  he  became  mad,  is  simply  absurd. 
Principal  Works. — At  sacristy  of  the  cathedral  of  Toledo,  Church  of  Sto. 
Tom6  in  same  city,  Burial  of  Count  Orgaz  (his  masterpiece) ;  at  the 
Escorial ;  and  ten  pictures  at  the  Picture  Gallery  of  Madrid. 

Juan  Bautista  Mayno9  born  1569  ;  died  at  Madrid  1649.  He  was  a 
pupil  of  El  Greco,  and  was  employed  by  the  Chapter  of  Toledo.  His 
works  may  be  seen  at  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid.     Imitated  Veronese. 

Luis  de  Velasco. — Resided  at  Toledo  in  1564  ;  died  1606.  Three 
pictures  in  the  cloisters  of  Cathedral  of  Toledo. 

Luis  Tristan,  born  near  Toledo  1586;  died  1640.  The  favourite 
pupil  of  El  Greco.  His  principal  works  are  at  Toledo  and  in  the  parish 
church  of  Yep6s. 

School  of  Seville. 

Juan  Sanchez  de  Castro. — 15th  century;  a  fresco  in  Church  of  San 
Julian,  Seville  (exec.  1484),  and  a  Holy  Family;  died  about  1516. 

Pedro  Sanchez. — Worked  in  the  cathedral  of  Seville  ;  died  about  1462. 

Juan  Nunez,  a  pupil  of  Sanchez  de  Castro.  A  Virgin  and  Christ  in 
Ouarto  de  los  Subsidios,  attached  to  cathedral  of  Seville. 


PAINTING — SCHOOL  OF  SEVILLE.  lxxv 

Luis  de  Vargas,  born  at  Seville  1502  ;  died  1568  ;  may  be  considered 
as  the  founder  of  the  school  of  Seville  ;  went  to  Italy,  where  he  remained 
twenty-eight  years,  and  studied  under  Perin  del  Vaga,  whose  style  he 
imitated.  His  earliest  work  at  Seville  is  the  altar-piece  of  chapel  of  the 
Nativity  in  the  cathedral ;  and  perhaps  his  best  La  Qamba,  or  Generation, 
in  the  S.  aisle  of  the  same  church. 

Pablo  de  Cespedes,  horn  at  Cordova  1538  ;  died  1625;  in  1608  studied 
in  Italy.  Imitated  Correggio,  and  was  a  great  colourist  "  The  painters 
of  the  school  of  Seville  learnt  from  him  the  fine  tone  of  their  flesh-tints." 
Principal  Works. — Cathedral  of  Cordova,  Chapter  House  and  Contaduria 
Mayor  of  the  Cathedral  of  Seville.  His  best  pupils  were  Zambrano, 
Penalosa,  Contreras,  Vela,  Mohedano.     Excelled  in  fruit-pieces. 

Alonso  Vazquez,  born  at  Honda  ;  died  1650.  Worked  withMohedeno 
in  the  convent  of  St.  Francis,  Seville  ;  also  excelled  in  fruit-pieces. 

Pedro  de  Villegas  Marmolejo,  born  at  Seville  1520;  died  1597.  Studied 
in  Italy,  and  imitated  the  Florentine  school.  A  Visitation  in  cathedral, 
Seville. 

Juan  de  las  Roelas,  born  in  1558  or  60;  died  1625.  Studied  at  Venice 
with  the  pupils  of  Titian  and  Tintoretto.  He  was  Zurbaran's  master. 
Style. — His  colouring  is  very  fine  and  rich  ;  great  softness  of  execution 
"  No  one  ever  painted  the  sleek  grimalkin  Jesuit  like  Roelas.M  Had  great 
influence  in  the  Seville  school.  Principal  Works. — At  Olivares  (collegiate 
church),  Cathedral  of  Seville,  Hospital  de  la  Caridad,  Seville,  Picture 
Gallery  of  Seville,  University  of  Seville,  Church  of  San  Isidoro,  Seville. 

Luis  Fernandez,  lived  during  end  of  16th  century.  He  is  known  not 
by  his  pictures,  but  as  the  master  of  Juan  del  Castillo  and  his  brother 
Augustin,  also  of  Herrero  and  Pacheco. 

Juan  del  Castillo,  born  at  Seville  1584.  He  was  the  master  of  Alonso 
Cano,  Pedro  de  Moya,  and  Murillo.  Six  fine  specimens  at  the  Picture 
Gallery,  Madrid,  and  at  the  Museo,  Seville. 

Agustin  del  Castillo,  brother  of  Juan  del  Castillo,  and  pupil  of  Fer- 
nandez. No  works  extant  except  an  Adoration  of  the  Kings,  at  the  Ca- 
thedral of  Cadiz. 

Antonio  del  Castillo,  the  son  of  Juan  del  Castillo,  and  pupil  of  Zur- 
baran.  He  died,  in  1667,  from  the  effects  of  envy  and  annoyance  caused 
by  the  sight  of  Murillo's  pictures  in  the  Cathedral  of  Seville. 

Francisco  Pacheco,  born  1579  ;  died  1654.  The  father-in-law  and 
teacher  of  Velazquez,  and  a  remarkable  writer  on  painting.  He  was  a 
pupil  of  Fernandez.  Style. — Correct  drawing,  good  and  equal  style, 
natural  and  noble  attitudes  of  his  figures ;  he  was  intimately  acquainted 
with  all  the  effects  of  light  and  perspective.  His  colouring  was  some- 
what hard  and  stony,  and  the  execution  often  constrained.  Principal 
Pictures. — Picture  Gallery,  Madrid,  and  at  the  Churches  of  San  Sebastian 
ind  Santiago  at  Maid  de  Guadaira. 

Luis  Pascual  Gavdin.  a  Carthusian  monk    died  1621  :  worked  at 


lxxvi  GENERAL   INFORMATION. 

Seville.  His  *  Marriage  of  the  Virgin'  offended  Pacheco's  sense  of  pro- 
priety in  the  representation  of  holy  personages,  as  he  dressed  the  Virgin, 
without  any  mantle,  in  a  Venetian  petticoat,  etc. 

Francisco  Herrera  (el  Viejo,  or  the  elder),  born  at  Seville  1576 ;  died 
1656.  A  fellow-pupil  of  Pacheco  at  the  school  of  Fernandez.  He  also 
engraved  on  copper,  and  painted  frescoes.  Style. — '  Introduced  into  the 
school  of  Seville  that  bold  and  vigorous  touch  which  was  adopted  by 
Velazquez.'  His  drawing  is  correct,  his  knowledge  of  anatomy  and  pro- 
portions of  the  human  body  remarkable ;  expression,  symmetry  in  the 
groups,  good  and  vigorous  colouring,  often  laid  on  with  an  extraordinary 
impasto.  Principal  Works. — Picture  of  San  Hermenegildo  at  the  Picture 
Gallery,  Seville,  and  a  Last  Judgment  in  the  Church  of  San  Bernardo, 
Seville. 

Francisco  Herrera  (el  Mozo),  born  1622;  died  1685;  son  of  the 
former.  (His  elder  brother,  Herrera  el  Rubio  (the  fair),  was  also  a  painter, 
less  known).  He  studied  in  Rome,  and,  like  his  elder  brother,  painted 
almost  exclusively  fish,  and  still-life  pieces,  and  was  called  at  Rome 
'  H  Spagnuolo  degli  pesci.'  Style. — Imitated  his  father's  style ;  surpassed 
him  in  the  painting  of  flower-pieces  and  bodegones ;  inferior  in  his 
colouring,  where  the  reddish  half-tints  predominate,  and  was  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  happiest  effects  of  chiaro-oscuro.  Principal  Pictures. 
— Picture  Gallery,  Madrid,  No.  744  ;  Cupola  of  the  Church  of  Atocha, 
Madrid  ;  and  Cupola  of  Choir  of  the  Church  of  San  Felipe  el  Real.  NJ5. 
— His  uncle,  Bartolome,  painted  portraits  at  Seville. 

Alonso  Cano,  born  1601  at  Granada;  died  1667.  Studied  under 
Pacheco  and  Juan  del  Castillo,  and  was  also  a  great  sculptor  and  an 
architect.  Style.— It  is  doubtful  whether  he  was  not  greater  as  a  sculptor 
than  as  a  painter.  His  manner  is  soft,  rich,  and  pleasing,  and  he  might 
be  called  the  Spanish  Correggio.  His  pencil  was  free  and  fertile,  yet 
correct  and  natural ;  his  colouring  rich  and  fine,  but  a  little  smoky ;  the 
outlines  consequently  appear  somewhat  indistinct  when  one  is  close, 
though  the  detail  and  purity  of  the  form  may  be  seen  at  a  certain  dis- 
tance from  the  picture.  In  the  expression  of  his  figures  he  was  full  of 
sentiment  and  tenderness,  without  being  feeble  or  affected.  The  taste  of 
his  draperies  and  his  forms  in  general  pure.  Principal  Works. — Cathedral 
of  Granada,  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid  (eight  specimens),  Church  of  Monte 
Sion,  Seville,  Cathedral  of  Seville,  University  of  Seville,  Church  of  San- 
tiago, Malaga,  Church  of  San  Girus,  Madrid. 

Pedro  Atanasio  Bocanegra,  born  at  Granada.  Was  a  pupil  of  Cano, 
and  studied  also  Pedro  de  Moya's  style.  Worked  at  the  Cathedral  of 
Granada,  where  see  Virgin  and  San  Bernardo,  the  Scourging  at  the 
Escorial,  and  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid. 

Sebastian  de  Llanos  y  ValdSs,  lived  in  1667.  A  pupil  of  Herrera  el 
Viejo,  and  was  killed  by  Cano  in  a  duel.  His  works  are  very  seldom 
found ;  they  are  very  rich  in  colouring. 


PAINTING — SCHOOL  OF  SEVILLE.  lxxvil 

Pedro  de  Maya,  born  at  Granada  1610  ;  died  1666.  Fellow-pupil  of 
Monso  Cano  and  Murillo  under  Castillo.  Principally  imitated  Van 
Dyck,  whom  lie  went  to  study  in  England  in  1 641.  His  successful  imi- 
tation of  this  master  is  said  to  have  exercised  some  influence  on  the  style 
of  Murillo. 

Francisco  Zurbaran,  born  at  Fuentes  de  Cantos  (Estremadura)  1598 ; 
died  1662.  Was  a  pupil  of  Las  Roelas.  Style. — Most  correct  drawing  ; 
called  the  Spanish  Caravaggio.  Equal  to  Cano  in  reputation,  not  so 
tender  but  more  vigorous  ;  great  loftiness  of  wonderful  finish  of  the 
details  in  dress,  and  beauty  and  truth  of  the  heads  ;  generally  severe  in 
style,  simple  in  composition ;  a  peculiar  pinky  tone,  especially  in  female 
cheeks.  The  prevalent  use  of  rouge  at  that  time  influenced  his  eye,  as  it  did 
that  of  Velazquez.  Principal  Works. — Picture  Gallery,  Seville,  Cathedral 
of  Seville.    At  the  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid,  there  are  fourteen  specimens. 

Juan  de  Valdis  Leal,  born  at  Cordova  in  1630  ;  died  1691.  A  pupil 
of  Antonio  del  Castillo,  and  the  rival,  or  rather  adversary,  of  Murillo. 
Style. — Forced  and  violent  attitudes,  sombre  and  gloomy  subjects,  a 
vigorous  and  brilliant  colouring,  somewhat  exaggerated,  and  tinted  with 
violent  and  green  tones.  Principal  Works. — La  Caridad,  Seville  ;  Pic- 
ture Gallery,  Seville;  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid,  No.  1049. 

BartolomS  Esteban  Murillo,  born  at  Seville,  January  1,  1616  ;  died 
at  Seville,  April  3,  1682.  Was  a  pupil  of  Castillo,  never  visited  Italy, 
and  began  by  imitating  Roelas  and  Zurbaran.  Style. — Has  three  recog- 
nised different  manners  : — 1.  The  frio,  or  cold ;  2.  The  cdlido,  or  warm  ; 
3.  The  vaporoso,  or  misty.  In  the  first,  '  the  outline  was  decided,  if  not 
hard,  and  the  tone  of  the  shadows  and  the  treatment  of  the  lights  remind 
us  of  Zurbaran  or  Caravaggio.,  The  second,  which  he  adopted  about 
1648,  is  characterised  by  a  softer  outline  and  a  more  mellow  colouring. 
His  third  style,  which  is  the  most  characteristic  of  his  works  (though 
the  painter  preferred  the  second,  or  cdlido  himself),  exhibits  softness  and 
vigour  with  the  finest  colouring.  He  now  painted  rather  hastily,  which 
produces  a  vaporous,  hazy  effect  thrown  over  the  whole — a  sort  of 
luminous  veil.  He  was  pre-eminent  as  a  colourist.  The  colour  of  the 
flesh  in  contact  with  linen  is  very  fine  ;  and  he  has  an  object  distinct 
from  most  of  his  countrymen,  and  '  aims  at  the  general  character  of 
flesh  when  tinged  with  the  glow  of  the  sun.  It  is  never  minute  or  par- 
ticular, but  a  general  and  poetical  recollection  of  nature ;  and  when  suc- 
cessful it  is  of  the  same  class,  and,  in  no  remote  degree,  an  approach  to 
Titian  and  Correggio.,  (Wilkie.)  His  most  successful  works  have  for 
subjects  the  Virgin  and  Infant  Deity.  He  was,  therefore,  called  '  El 
pintor  de  los  concepciones,,  and  the  children  and  cherubs  be  painted, 
*  los  ninos  de  Murillo/  Principal  Works. — His  own  favourite  painting  is 
St.  Thomas  giving  Alms,  at  the  Picture  Gallery,  Seville — he  is  better 
studied  here  than  at  Madrid  ; — Picture  Gallery,  Seville  ;  Cathedral 
ditto  ;  La  Caridad,  ditto,  and  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid. 


lxxvili  GENERAL   INFORMATION. 

Sebastian  Qomez.     A  pupil  and  the  mulatto  slave  of  Murillo. 

Pedro  Nunez  de  Villavicencioy  born  at  Seville  1635;  died  1700.  He 
was  a  pupil  of  Murillo,  and  was,  with  Tobar,  the  best  pupil  and  imitator 
of  the  master's  style,  and  their  works  are  often  mistaken  as  being  by 
him.     (See  at  the  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid,  No.  1119.) 

Francisco  Meneses  Ossorio,  died  beginning  of  1 8th  century.  Pupil 
of  Murillo.  He  painted  at  Seville,  and  finished  at  Cadiz  the  picture 
his  master  was  painting  when  he  fell  from  the  scaffold  and  soon  after  died. 

Juan  Garzon,  died  at  Madrid  in  1729.     A  pupil  of  Murillo. 

Ignacio  de  Iriarte,  born  at  Azcoitia  1620  ;  died  1685.  Pupil  of 
Herrera  el  Viejo.     Painted  almost  exclusively  landscapes. 

Tobar,  born  1678 ;  died  1758.  Pupil  of  Fajardo  and  successful  imi- 
tator of  Murillo.  Specimens  at  Chapel  del  Consuelo  (Cathedral,  Seville) ; 
two  at  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid. 

School  of  Madrid. 

May  be  also  called  of  Castile,  and  is  composed  of  painters  from  Sala- 
manca, Burgos,  Valladolid,  Madrid. 

Oaspar  Becerra,  bom  1520  at  Baeza  ;  died  1570.  Studied  in  Italy, 
and  was  made  by  Philip  II.,  in  1563,  his  court-painter.  Introduced  with 
Berruguete  the  Italian  taste  in  Spain.  Most  of  his  works  have  perished. 
A  retablo  in  the  Cathedral  of  Astorga  ;  very  Florentine  style. 

Alfonso  Sanchez  Coello}  born,  beginning  of  1 6th  century,  near  Valencia ; 
died  1590.  Was  probably  of  Portuguese  origin  (Coelho)  ;  became  a 
pupil  of  Antonio  Moro,  and  studied  in  Italy.  Style. — *  Was  peculiarly 
distinguished  in  portraits.  Great  life  and  truth  to  nature.'  He  enjoyed 
great  distinction  from  Philip  II.  Principal  Works. — At  Picture  Gallery, 
Madrid,  eight  fine  pictures,  all  portraits,  save  a  St  Catherine,  painted  on 
cork  ;  Escorial. 

Juan  Pantoja  de  la  Cruz,  born  at  Madrid  1551  ;  died  at  Madrid 
1610.  The  best  pupil  of  A.  S.  Coello.  i  These  pictures,  by  Coello  and 
Pantoja,  of  Infants  and  Infantas,  bristling  with  the  stiffiiess  and  formality 
of  the  old  Spanish  Court,  independently  of  their  merit  as  works  of  art, 
are  in  themselves  most  interesting.'  Several  pictures,  mostly  portraits, 
in  the  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid. 

J.  Fernandez  Navarrete,  surnamed  El  Mudo,  born  at  Logrono,  1520  ; 
died  1579.  He  studied  in  Italv,  and  worked  in  the  Escorial.  '  One  of 
his  best  is  the  Baptism  of  Christ  at  Madrid  Picture  Gallery,  from  the 
Escorial.     A  colourist  of  the  Titian  school.' 

Lais  de  Carbajal,  or  Carabajal,  born  at  Toledo  1534;  died  begin- 
ning of  1 7th  century.  Painted  at  the  Escorial,  Pardo,  and  Cathedral, 
Toledo,  with  Bias  del  Prado  (1591).  His  Magdalen,  a  masterpiece,  is  in 
Madrid  Picture  Gallery  (No.  675).     He  was  named  painter  to  Philip  II. 

Velazquez  {Don  Diego  Yelazqxiez  de  Silva),  born  at  Seville  1599  ; 


PAINTING — SCHOOL  OF  MADRID.  lxxix 

died  at  Madrid  1660.  Became  a  pupil  of  Herrera  the  Elder  and  Pacheco, 
and  studied  also  in  Italy.  Style. — He  first  imitated  Caravaggio  and 
Ribera,  of  which  the  Aguador  de  Sevilla,  now  in  Apsley  House,  and  an 
Adoration  of  Shepherds,  in  the  Louvre,  are  examples.  He  was  essentially 
a  *  naturalist.'  He  stands  as  a  portrait-painter  side  by  side  with  Vandyck 
and  Titian.  He  often  falls  short  of  the  elegance  of  the  former,  and  he  is 
inferior  to  the  latter  in  brilliancy  and  colour  ;  but  the  feeling  and  spirit 
of  his  subject  are  admirably  conceived  and  executed.  Every  touch  has 
meaning,  and  nothing  is  conventional.  '  For  handling  no  one  surpasses 
him,  but  in  colour  Reynolds  is  much  beyond  him,  and  so  is  Murillo.  In 
painting  an  intelligent  portrait,  Velazquez  is  nearly  unrivalled ;  but 
where  he  attempts  simple  nature  or  sacred  subjects  he  is  far  inferior  to 
Murillo.,  (Wilkie.)  Principal  Works. — At  the  Madrid  Gallery,  his 
Lanzas,  Meninas,  and  Borrachos  ;  besides  others  in  some  noblemen's 
houses  at  Madrid. 

Pareja,  born  1606  ;  died  1670.  A  pupil,  and  first  the  slave  of 
Velazquez.  The  *  Call  of  St.  Matthew,'  by  him,  is  at  the  Picture  Gallery, 
Madrid. 

J.  Bautistadel  Mazo,  born  at  Madrid  1630  ;  died  1687  ;  Velazquez's 
son-in-law,  and  his  most  successful  pupil.  His  works  may  be  seen  at 
Madrid  and  the  Escorial. 

Mateo  Gerezo,  born  at  Burgos  1635  ;  died  1675.  A  pupil  of  Carrena 
Celebrated  for  his  numerous  pictures  of  the  Immaculate  Cdnception. 
Valladolid,  Madrid  (Chapel  of  Atocha). 

J.  Carreno,  born  at  Avilds  1614  ;  died  1685.  Pupil  of  Las  Cuevas, 
Worked  at  the  Escorial  and  Royal  Palace  of  Madrid. 

Glaudio  Goello,  died  at  Madrid  1693.  A  pupil  of  Rizzi  and  Carrena 
His  masterpiece  is  '  La  Santa  Forma,'  at  the  Escorial.  His  genius  was 
crippled  by  the  prevalent  bad  taste  of  his  times. 

Rizi  {Francisco),  born  at  Madrid  1608  ;  died  1685.  Pupil  of  Vin- 
cenzio  Carducho.  The  Ricci,  Carducci,  Cajeci  (Cajes),  etc.,  were  all  of 
Italian  descent,  and  their  works  are  of  no  great  merit. 

Palomino,  born  at  Bugalance  1653  ;  died  1726.  A  pupil  of  Valdes 
Leal,  but  worked  almost  exclusively  in  Castile,  Madrid,  and  Salamanca. 
Painted  the  cupola  of  sacristy  of  La  Cartuja  at  Granada.  More  cele- 
brated for  his  literary  than  artistic  works.  He  was  the  author  of  *  El 
Miiseo  Pictorico,'  etc. 

Menendez  (M.  Jacinto),  born  at  Oviedo  1679  ;  died  1752.  Studied 
in  Italy,  and  was  especially  a  miniature-painter.  Luis  Menendez,  the  son 
aud  pupil  of  the  former,  and  his  younger  brother,  Francisco  Antonio, 
were  also  painters.  Luis,  born  1716;  died  1780.  There  are  thirty-eight 
paintings  by  him  at  the  Madrid  Picture  Gallery. 

Goya. — Painted  a  great  deal  at  Madrid.  Born  1746  ;  died  1828. 
One  of  the  few  really  original  Spanish  painters  who  struck  out  a  new 


1XXX  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

path.  Great  imagination.  *  Skilled  as  well  in  the  management  of  coloui 
and  brush  as  in  that  of  the  burin,  aquafortis,  and  the  lithographic  stone  ; 
his  effects  in  scenes  of  common  life  are  inimitable  for  their  surprising 
truth  and  force.'  Respecting  this  master  see  Friarte's  *  (Euvre  de  Goya/ 
There  are,  besides  the  above,  several  so-called  Escuelas,  as,  for  example^ 
that  of  Aragon,  whose-  chief  artists  were — R.  Torrente  (died  1323) ; 
Guillen  Fort,  his  pupil ;  Bonant  de  Ortiza  (1437)  ;  Pedro  de  Aponte 
(1479),  who  studied  in  Italy  under  Ghirlandajo  ;  F.  Pelegret,  who 
studied  with  P.  Caravaggio  ;  Domin  Forment,  the  Cellini  of  Aragon  ; 
A.  Golcovan  (1588);  Geronimo  de  Mora  (1587)  ;  Ximenes  (died  1666). 
Then,  in  the  18th  century,  the  more  inferior  Artiga,  Piano,  Rabiella, 
Almor,  Casanova,  etc.,  ending  with  Martinez,  Bayeu,  and  Goya,  the  best 
of  whom  belong  more  properly  to  the  Madrid  school,  if  there  was  any  at 
that  time.  In  Cataluna,  the  Viladomat,  Baylon,  Perramon,  Cesilles,  etc., 
have  been  said  by  native  critics  to  constitute  a  school ;  but  the  fact  is, 
that  what  is  generally  understood  by  that  name  hardly  applies  even  to  the 
group  of  painters  that  flourished  at  Seville,  Toledo,  Valencia,  and  Madrid. 

Books  of  Reference. — Mr.  Stirling's  *  Annals  of  Spanish  Painters,'  is  the 
most  important  and  accurate  historical  work  upon  Spanish  painters.  It  has 
been  translated  into  Spanish,  with  notes,  by  Maldonado  Macanaz.  It  is 
based  on  Cean  Bermudez's  'Diccionario.' 

Captain  Cooke  Widdrington's  *  Spain  in  1843/  contains  some  useful  infor- 
mation. 

'  Les  Musees  d'Espagne,'  by  L.  Viardot  (Paris,  i860,  3d  ed.),  was  the  first 
work  that  called  the  attention  of  foreign  cognoscenti  to  Spanish  pictures.  The 
substance  is  based  on  Palomino  and  Cean  Bermudez.  The  appreciations  are 
considered  most  trustworthy,  and  we  have  transcribed  many  of  them  almost 
entirely. 

'  Handbook  of  Painting*  by  Sir  Ed.  Head,  vol.  ii.,  containing  the  Spanish 
and  French  schools;  London,  Murray,  1854.  Most  reliable  for  information, 
and  with  an  account  of  the  Spanish  pictures  out  of  Spain. 

Passavant's  'Die  Christliche  Kunst  in  Spanien,'  1853  ;  Leipzig. 

R.  Cumberland's  '  Anecdotes  of  Eminent  Spanish  Painters,'  2  vols.  i2mo  t 
London,  1782.  (Contains  a  catalogue  of  the  pictures  of  the  King  of  Spain  in 
1787.) 

A.  Palomino,  '  Museo  Pictorico  y  Escala  Optica,'  3  vols.  fol.  ;  Madrid, 
1795-6-7.  (An  abridged  edition  published  in  London  in  1744.)  Somewhat 
inaccurate,  but  useful. 

F,  Pacheco,  '  El  Arte  de  la  Pintura,  su  Antigiiedad  y  Grandezas  ; '  Seville, 
1649.  Very  scarce,  and  of  great  importance  for  the  history  of  Spanish  paint- 
ing. The  substance  of  much  has  passed. into  other  works.  He  wrote  a  MS. 
'  Descripcion  de  Retratos  Autenticos,'  etc. — a  series  of  biographical  sketches 
of  the  painters  and  literati  who  frequented  his  studio.  The  original  MS.  has 
been  lost.  A  second  edition,  by  G.  C.  Villamil,  was  published  in  Madrid  in 
1866. 

Felipe  de  Guevara,  *  Comentarios  de  la  Pintura'  (published  by  Ponz). 
Madrid,  1788. 


SCULPTURE.  lxxxi 

Cean  Bermudez,  'Diccionario  Hist6rico  de  los  mas  ilustres  Profesores  de 
las  Bellas  Artes  en  Espana,'  6  vols.  i2mo ;  Madrid,  1800.  This  work  is  now 
being  supplemented  by  a  series  of  papers  by  the  Conde  de  Viiiaza  in  the  Revista 
de  Ciencias  HistSricas,  Barcelona,  1888. 

Consult,  also,  Madrazo's  Catalogue  of  the  Madrid  Museo  (two  vols. ),  and, 
for  the  Aragonese  school,  Mifiano's  *  Diccionario  Geografico,'  which  contains  a 
paper  on  it  by  Cean  Bennudez.  Also,  for  Velazquez,  P.  Lefort's  papers  in  the 
Gazette  des  Beaux  Arts,  1879- 1884;  Curtis'  *  Velazquez  and  Murillo*  (Lond. 
and  New  York,  1883);  Lttcke's  Velazquez'  in  Dohme^s  Kunst  und  Kunstler, 
and  Justi's  Diego  Velazquez  und sein  Jahrhundert  (2  vols.,  Bonn,  1888).  Sefior 
Menendez  y  Pelago's  Historia  de  las  Ideas  Estetieas  en  EspaHa  may  well 
be  consulted  ;  and  we  strongly  recommend  Mr.  Beales*  'Velasquez  au  Museede 
Madrid '  and  '  Murillo '  in  his  Causeries  sur  FArt. 

Sculpture. 

Until  the  reign  of  Charles  V.  there  was  no  study  of  anatomy,  as  the 
Church  forbade  dissection.  This,  together  with  indifference  evinced 
towards  Roman  remains  of  art,  contributed  to  paralyse  the  progress  of 
sculpture.  Besides,  nudity  was  held  to  be  indecent,  and  accordingly 
prohibited,  although  'rien  n'habille  comme  le  nu,'  said  Voltaire. 
Sculpture,  indeed,  would  never  have  existed  but  for  the  desire  to  represent 
the  heroes  and  events  of  sacred  history.  Painted  sculpture,  a  peculiarity 
of  Spanish  art,  has  always  found  favour  over  the  simple  marble.  To  be  as 
life-like  as  possible,  the  figures  were  often  clothed  ;  and  beards,  hair, 
eyelashes,  were  sometimes  reaL  In  this  style  they  are  considered 
more  effective  in  churches  than  the  cold  marble,  and  more  in  accord 
with  the  rich  varied  tints  of  the  painted  glass  and  pavements,  the 
heavy  gilt  and  painted  railings,  and  the  draperies  and  pictures. 

These  statues  and  sacred  groups  once  removed  from  their  appointed 
station  must  naturally  appear,  what  they  really  are,  out  of  place ;  l  Les 
homines,'  says  La  Rochefoucault,  f  sont  comme  les  statues,  pour  les  juger 
il  faut  des  voir  en  place/  On  the  altars  they  should  have  been  left,  for 
that  was  their  place.  Spanish  sculpture  exerted  itself  principally  in  the 
magnificently  carved  and  estofado  (gilt)  retablos,  usually  filled  up  with 
series  of  basso-relievo  scenes  from  Scripture,  the  Virgin's  life,  or  that  of 
the  tutelar  patron  of  the  lugar ;  groups  in  the  Trascoro  and  Trasaltar, 
besides  single  statues  of  saints  with  their  attributes  in  the  chapels  dedi- 
cated to  them.  Alto-relievo  medallions  over  doors,  statues  (never  painted) 
in  niches,  recumbent  or  kneeling  effigies  on  tombs,  etc.,  were  also  objects 
of  the  sculptor's  chisel  that  deserve  attention.  The  carved  sillerias  or 
stalls  in  the  choirs  are  among  the  finest  in  the  world.  Sculpture  here, 
as  elsewhere,  in  some  degree,  has  followed  the  gradations  of  architecture 
and  painting.  In  the  dark  ages  art  disappeared  through  the  oblivion  of 
classical  principles,  and  during  the  Byzantine  and  early  Gothic  period* 
sculpture  in  Spain  was  rude,  symbolical,  and  conventional.  The  most 
brilliant  period  was  the  16th  century,  when  the  study  of  Italian  models, 
and  a  growing  gusto  for  the  Revival,  introduced  new  ideas  and  created 


lxxxii 


GENERAL   INFORMATION. 


emulation.  Toward8  the  end  of  the  1 7th  century  art  became  bastardised, 
and  followed  the  precepts  of  the  bad  taste  prevalent  at  that  period,  and 
in  the  present  day  sculpture  may  be  safely  said  not  to  exist  in  Spain. 
In  the  16th  century  its  character  was  very  peculiar,  the  life-like  appear- 
ance of  groups  and  statues  was  most  startling  ;  the  vigour,  breadth,  and 
expression  are  usually  very  remarkable  ;  the  composition,  especially  of 
groups,  freely  conceived  and  generally  well  carried  out ;  the  execution  of 
details  very  exquisite,  the  attitudes  theatrical  and  exaggerated.  The 
general  characteristic  is  action,  which  the  impassioned,  fiery  Southeners 
like  and  understand  better  than  repose,  a  more  difficult  and  intimately 
aesthetic  sentiment.  The  greatest  sculptors  have  been  Leon  Leoni,  and 
his  son  Pompeyo  Leoni,  natives  of  Italy,  whose  gilt-bronze  statues  at  the 
Escorial  and  Valladolid  are  among  the  finest  of  their  kind ;  Alfonso 
Berruguete,  the  Spanish  Benvenuto  Cellini ;  Becerra,  who  was  a  great 
anatomist,  and  even  made  the  designs  for  an  anatomical  work  published 
at  Rome,  1554,  the  text  by  Dr.  J.  de  Valverde,  and  executed  two  anato- 
mical statues  (Cean  Bermudez  considers  him  as  the  first  of  Spanish 
sculptors ;  his  masterpieces  are  La  Virgen  de  la  Soledad,  and  a  grand 
retablo  in  the  Cathedral  of  Astorga,  etc.) ;  the  fiery  and  grandiose  Juan 
de  Juniy  the  Michael  Angelo  of  Spain  ;  Oregorio  Hernandez,  whose  style 
is  so  elevated,  graceful,  and  refined ;  Montanes,  surnamed  the  Phidias  of 
Seville,  all  grace,  exquisite  delicacy,  and  tenderness  ;  Alfonso  Cano9  hie 
pupil,  whose  works  exhibit  much  of  his  master's  taste  and  elegance,  com- 
bined with  originality,  expression,  and  excellent  careful  modelling. 

Sculpture  in  Spain  was  seldom  considered  otherwise  than  as  an 
accessory  to  architecture.  It  became  the  tongue  of  edifices,  which  the 
unlettered  could  read, f  Iabri  idiotarum/  all  symbolical,  and  whose  earlier 
impotency  has  been  sometimes  defined  as  conventional.  The  examples 
are  scattered  all  over  Spain,  in  churches,  ruinous  convents,  noblemen's 
houses,  and  some  museos  ;  in  that  of  Valladolid  there  is  the  best  collec- 
tion ;  and  it  is  in  that  city  and  Seville  and  Toledo  that  Spanish  sculpture 
has  to  be  principally  studied. 

List  of  the  principal  Spanish  sculptors,  with  the  period  of  their  death, 
or  that  when  they  flourished  :—  • 


Mateo,  el  Maestro,  1188 
Aleman,  Juan,  1460 
Dancart,  el  Maestro,  1495 
Florentin,  Miguel,  15 10 
Bartolome*.  el  Maestro,  1520 
Forment,  Damian,  1525 
Valdelvira,  Pedro,  1540 
Copin,  Diego  and  Miguel,  1540 
Berruguete,  Alfonso,  1545 
Tordesillas,  Gaspar,  1545 
Machuca,  Pedro,  1545 
Xamete  (Hammed)  1550 
Leoni,  Leon,  1555 
Villapando,  Franco,  1561 
SUoe,  Diego  de,  1562 


TudelUla,  1566 
Morel,  Bart,  1566 
Becerra,  Gaspar,  1566 
Ancheta,  Miguel  de,  1575 
Juni,  Juan  de,  1585 
Jordan,  Estbau,  1590 
Leoni,  Pompeyo,  1605  (a  Florentine) 
Hernandez,  Gregorio,  1635 
Pereyra,  Manuel,  1645 
Monta&es,  Juan  M.  Z.,  1645 
Cano,  Alfonso,  1650 
Roldan,  Pedro,  1650 

Tome*,  Narciso,  and  Simon  Gavilan  Tom  6. 
1738 


PORCELAIN  lxxtfiii 

Terra-cotta  we  have  omitted  mentioning,  as  foreign,  in  one  sense,  to 
our  subject.  There  are,  however,  several  excellent  specimens  in  churches, 
over  portals  in  cathedrals  (Seville),  and  the  spirited,  freely-modelled* 
coloured  groups  and  statuettes  of  bull-fighting  subjects  at  Malaga. 

Books  of  Reference. — We  know  of  no  Spanish  works  on  iconography.  Those 
of  our  readers  who  are  curious  of  deciphering  the  now  dead  language  expressed 
by  sculpture  in  the  early  churches  may  consult  Didron's  «  Manuel  d'Iconographie 
Chrelienne,'  and  the  Abbe  Crosnier's  work  on  the  same  subject.  A  translation  of 
the  former,  with  valuable  additions  by  Miss  Stokes,  has  been  published  by  Bell 
and  Sons,  London,  1886.  Most  of  the  early  sculptors,  until  perhaps  the 
beginning  of  the  14th  century,  were  also  and  especially  architects,  and  belonged 
to  monasteries,  where  men  lost  all  individuality.  Cean  Bermudez's  '  Diccionario ' 
may  be  consulted. 

Porcelain. 

Porcelain  amateurs  cannot  look  upon  Spain  without  interest,  as  it  has 
contributed  a  generous  share  to  the  potter's  art.  Such  names  as  Majolica, 
Buen  Retiro,  and  Moorish  Azulejos,  are  sufficient  to  awaken  their 
sympathies  and  excite  their  zeal. 

The  Carthaginian  pottery,  which  principally  flourished  at  Saguntum 
(now  Murviedro,  see  Valencia),  was  very  celebrated  in  the  time  of  the 
Romans,  and  produced  the  '  Calices  Saguutini '  of  Martial  (xiv.  108),  that 
were  of  that  beautiful  jasper-red,  which  Pliny  mentions,  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  which,  he  adds,  1 200  workmen  were  employed.  ( Vide  Pliny, 
Hist.  Nat.,  lib.  xxxv.  c.  1 2.) 

Fragments  are  still  found  here  (beware  of  the  usual  impositions  prac- 
tised on  credulous  travellers),  and  exhibit  great  elegance  of  design,  being 
most  Oriental  in  the  outline.  The  Conde"  de  Lumiare's  work, '  Barros 
Saguntinos/  with  prints  (Valencia,  Orga,  1779,  8vo.),  throws  some  light 
on  the  subject ;  but  the  names  of  the  manufacturers,  etc.,  are  all  un- 
known, for,  alas ! — 

True  fame,  like  pore1  lain  earth,  for  years  must  lay 
Buried  and  mix'd  with  elemental  clay. — Hart. 

We  know  the  Phoenicians  excelled  in  the  manufacture  of  earthenware 
cups,  chalices,  the  irorfigiov  of  the  Greeks,  which,  in  the  middle  ages, 
were  all  made  after  the  Greek  and  Roman  models.  The  Romans  did 
not  neglect  the  manufactures  of  Spanish  pottery,  but  the  Mohammedans 
raised  it  to  a  high  degree  of  excellence  by  the  introduction  of  the 
general  use  of  tiles  of  enamelled  earthenware,  called  azulejos,  from  the 
Arabic  *  Zuleija,  zuleich,'  a  varnished  tile.  They  are  of  Persian  origin 
(the  lazurad  blue).  We  do  not  think  that  the  early  Moors  knew  them, 
and  there  are  few  vestiges  of  these  tiles  in  the  Mosque  of  Cordova  ; 
those  that  exist  must  have  been  posterior  to  the  10th  century.  In  the 
Mihrab  (Mosque  of  Cordova),  the  enamelled  vitreous  mosaics,  the  finest 

f 


lxxxiv  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

of  their  kind  in  Europe,  were  a  Byzantine  produce,  the  Greek  ^fj^ufftg) 
and  Arabic  Fsefysah,  or  Sofeysafah.  The  Alhambra  tiles  are  among  the 
finest  in  the  world.  The  Moorish  buildings  at  Seville  and  Toledo  were 
also  adorned  with  this  style  of  decorative  pottery. 

The  sun-dried  bricks  made  in  Spain,  an  Arab  importation,  are  called 
adobe,  mud-wall,  Cob. 

The  Spaniards  learned  the  art  of  tile-pottery  from  the  more  refined 
Easterns,  and  became  very  proficient.  As  examples,  we  may  mention 
the  Dados  in  the  Casa  de  Pilatos  at  Seville,  the  Portal  de  las  Monjas  de 
Sta.  Paula,  the  cinquecento  azulejos  found  here  and  there  in  the  Alcazar 
of  Seville,  the  azulejo  picture  in  the  chapel  at  this  Alcazar,  put  up  by 
Isabella  the  Catholic  ;  the  fine  azulejo  pictures  in  the  principal  facade  of 
the  Hospital  de  la  Caridad,  after  designs  by  Murillo  (Seville),  at  Barce- 
lona, Convent  de  la  Merced,  cinquecento  Dados,  representing  the  victories 
of  Jayme  I.  of  Aragon,  portion  of  exterior  of  La  Seu  at  Zaragoza,  etc. 

This  charming  fashion  fell  off  in  the  1 7th  century,  but  the  manufac- 
ture of  them  still  continues  to  prosper  in  Spain,  at  Manises,  near 
Valencia,  and  at  Seville,  and  considerable  importation  takes  place  from 
Morocco.  They  are  nsed  in  courts,  passages,  gardens,  bath-rooms.  They 
are  seen  in  butchers'  shops,  fishmongers'  stalls,  etc. ;  but  they  deserve 
all  the  attention  of  architects  and  men  of  taste.  From  the  progress  that 
porcelain-painting  has  made,  which  has  great  analogy  with  enamel-paint- 
ing, the  processes  used  at  Limoges,  the  superior  means  disposed  of  now, 
of  making  the  tiles  of  almost  any  size  and  thinness,  they  might  be  in 
many  cases  a  substitute  for  cold,  meaningless,  heavy  stone  ;  superior  to 
frescoes,  that  do  not  generally  last  in  the  open  air,  and  preferable  to 
bricks  ;  they  adapt  themselves  to  all  climates.  Ceramic  decoration  for 
the  exteriors  of  buildings  ought  to  be  developed,  and  when  applied 
soberly,  and  with  intelligence,  will  not  be  found,  we  think,  foreign  to 
dignity  and  repose. 

'  Nunca  haras  casa  con  azulejos,'  shows,  however,  that  this  decoration 
is  attended  with  expense.  They  are  of  a  pale  clay,  backed,  squeezed 
into  moulds,  glazed  on  the  surface  with  a  white  opaque  enamel,  upon 
which  designs  are  executed  in  colours.  The  Moorish  tiles  were  painted ; 
the  Spanish  ones  are  generally  stamped.  The  usual  tints  of  the  earliest 
were  blue'or  brown.  The  secondary  colours,  purple,  green,  and  orange, 
were  also  used.  About  the  1 5th  century,  whites  and  yellows  were  the 
fashion,  and  in  the  beginning  of  the  1 7th  century,  yellow,  almost  exclu- 
sively. But  these  tiles  were  not  the  only  production  of  Moorish  pottery. 
The  jars  (Jarras)  and  the  water-coolers  (alcarazas),  all  Oriental  in  shape 
were  elaborately  ornamented.  These  porous  clay  drinking-vessels,  from 
Al-Karazah,  are  of  course  a  Moorish  importation,  and  differ  little  from 
the  Egyptian  bardachs  made  at  Khermeh.  The  Arabs'  early  zooleh, 
which  hold  and  keep  the  water  so  well,  were  the  prototypes  of  the  botijo. 


1 


PORCELAIN.  Ixxxv 

Martial's  Trulla  (xiv.  106  ;  iv.  46),  who  mentions  all  the  particulars  of 
those  made  at  Saguntnm  ;  they  are  very  like  the  Cenobic  trartxd.  They 
were  probably  introduced  by  the  Phoenicians,  and  were  made  in  Seville 
as  early  as  304  A.D.  They  are  generally  placed  on  tallas,  or  stands,  and 
kept  cool  by  being  covered  with  linen.  The  most  characteristic  are  made 
at  Andujar.     They  are  of  different  colours — yellow,  brown,  and  white. 

Of  Moorish  ceramic  art,  the  beautiful  and  celebrated  vase  at  the 
Alhambra  is  a  good  specimen  ;  it  dates  about  1320;  the  companion  of  it 
was  broken,  and  the  fragments  carried  away  by  a  French  lady  connois- 
seur. There  is  a  copy  at  Sevres.  The  Hispano- Arabic  pottery  flourished 
till  the  beginning  of  the  1 7th  century,  the  period  of  the  final  expulsion 
of  the  Moors  ;  its  influence  has  been  permanent.  To  this  day  all  earthen- 
ware pots  and  vases  are  of  Moorish  form.  The  cdntaros  and  botijas  of 
that  particular  peculiarly-scented  biicaro  clay,  the  Gargantua-like  Tinajas, 
where  the  wine  and  oil  are  kept,  the  alcarrazas  of  Valentia,  cazueias,  etc., 
at  Elche,  are  all  of  Eastern,  very  early  forms. 

Besides,  the  Moors'  pottery  is  considered  to  be  the  prototype  of  the 
Italian  Majolica.  The  Hispano-Arabic  pottery  has  been  divided  into  three 
classes.  1st.  Of  the  transition  period  between  strictly  Moorish  and 
Spanish,  a  yellow  ground  with  lustred-reddish  ornaments,  flowers,  and 
birds.  2d.  Of  13th  to  14th  century,  generally  ornamented  with  shields 
of  Castile,  Leon,  Aragon,  of  a  uniform  golden  yellow  tone.  3d.  14th  to 
end  of  1 5th  century,  with  patterns  in  coloured  enamel,  with  golden  yellow 
ornaments,  escutcheons,  foliage,  cyphers,  sometimes  animals.  This  is 
thought  by  Mr.  Marryat  to  be  the  style  copied  by  Italian  artists  in  the 
1 6th  century.  '  Spain  had  the  priority  over  Italy  in  the  manufacture  of 
enamelled  pottery*  (Marryaty.  The  Moorish  pottery  passed  from  Valencia 
to  Majorca,  whence  Majolica,  and  finally  to  Pisa  and  Pesaro.  This  seems 
undeniable  from  all  that  the  highest  authorities  have  stated  (Scaliger, 
Fabio  Ferrari,  etc.),  but  no  doubt  the  ground  had  been  well  prepared  by 
the  Sicilian  Saracens  (a.d.  827),  who  decorated  the  mosque  at  Palermo. 
The  clay  that  was  used  in  the  manufacture  of  Majolica  ware  is  found  in 
Majorca  at  Puigpunent  and  at  Estellenchs. 

On  the  succession  of  the  House  of  Bourbon,  French  pottery  was  in- 
troduced and  imitated,  and  the  Granja  Porcelain  Factory,  an  appendage 
to  the  Fabrica  de  Cristales,  was  established  in  1688  by  the  French 
Thevart,  and  enlarged  by  Charles  III.  But  a  more  important  one  was 
established  by  this  latter  sovereign  at  Madrid,  in  the  Gardens  del  Buen 
Retiro,  about  1759.  The  models  and  workmen  came  from  the  Nea- 
politan manufactory  of  Capo  di  Monte.  The  influence  of  the  Sevres,  of 
which  specimens  were  sent  constantly  as  presents  to  the  Spanish  court, 
was  felt  in  the  workmanship  of  the  new  Spanish  porcelain.  The  build- 
ings were  destroyed  during  the  French  occupation.  It  is  like  Capo  di 
Monte  ware.     Groups  of  figures,  mostly  mythological  subjects,  were  also 


L 


Ixxxvi  GENERAL   INFORMATION. 

made.  The  marks  are  :  a  fleur-de-lys,  either  in  blue  or  stamped  in 
relief,  and  the  monogram  of  Charles  III.  The  china  cabinet  in  the 
Queen  of  Spain's  palace  at  Aranjuez  is  certainly  one  of  the  best  examples 
of  the  tasteful  and  the  rare  application  of  porcelain  to  the  decoration  of 
rooms.  All  the  walls,  ceilings,  doors,  are  fitted  up  with  high  relievo 
Buen  Retiro  ware.  The  effect  is  admirable.  The  china-manufacture 
established  at  La  Moncloa  by  Ferdinand  VII.,  notwithstanding  Senor 
Sureda's  efforts,  no  longer  exists. — Consult  Ch.  Davillier's  excellent  wori 
on  the  subject,  besides  Marryat's  l  History  of  Porcelain  and  Pottery, 
London,  1857,  which  has  been  recently  translated  into  French,  with 
valuable  notes  ;  Jacquemart's  Researches,  etc 


Music. 

*  Dancing,'  says  Mr.  Ticknor, '  has  been  to  Spain  what  music  has  been  to 
Italy — a  passion  with  the  whole  population.'  Spanish  national  music  is 
therefore,  strictly  musique  dansante,  composed  to  accompany  dances, 
entremeses,  roystering  ballads,  whence  called  danzas  habladas,  bayles 
tntremesados.  Most  of  the  Spanish  musical  instruments  have  an  Eastern 
derivation,  the  rdbel,  zambomba,  pandereta,  guitarra,  and  gaita.  Musical 
instruments,  peculiar  to  some  provinces,  may  be  earlier  still  than  the 
former,  such  as  the  gaita  in  Asturias,  and  the  tamboril  of  the  Basque. 
The  emphatic  instrument  is  the  guitar,  the  tudaga  of  the  Greeks,  and 
kinoor  common  to  all  the  East  The  words  mean  little  or  nothing. 
The  character  of  this  Eastern  music  may  be  studied  in  Alfarabi's 
'  Elements  of  Music,'  in  the  Escorial  Library  (Casiri  1,  34).  It  contains, 
besides  the  principles  of  the  art,  the  forms  of  the  Arabic  musical  notes, 
and  prints  of  thirty  different  instruments  ;  there  is  also  an  interesting 
collection  of  the  lives  of  celebrated  Spanish  singers,  both  male  and 
female,  and  of  early  Spanish  airs.  The  Archives  of  the  Cathedrals  of 
Toledo  and  Seville  contain  also  curious  and  numerous  collections  of 
church  music,  mostly  plain-chant.  In  the  Colombine  Library,  Seville, 
see  also  Caspar  de  Aguilar's  '  Arte  de  Principios  de  Canto  Ellano  en 
EspanoL'  With  the  exception  of  a  few  good  composers  of  sacred  music, 
there  is  little  here  that  will  interest  the  music- collector.  "We  might 
mention  several  collections  of  Villancicos,  sung  in  churches  at  Christmas 
time,  as  early  as  the  1 5th  century,  the  words  of  which  teem  with  piety  : 
— See,  for  example,  'Villancicos  y  Coplas  curiosas,'  by  Francisco  de 
Avila,  AlcaU,  1606,  one  of  which  begins — 

O  que  bien  que  baila  Gil 
Viendo  al  nino  entre  las  pajas  ! 

The  Moors  had  different  moods  or  harmonic  phrases  which  they  called 
roots  (ou8soul);  that  called  doughiah  was  applied  to  sorrowful  subjects  to 
which  the  Spanish  canas  {gaunia  of  the  Moors,  a  song)  belongs,  which 


FESTIVALS  lxxxvii 

terminates  with  an  Ay  !  Ishac  expressed  love,  and  its  malm  partidas. 
They  are  said  to  have  derived  this  system  from  the  Persians.  There  was 
little  variety,  and  really,  as  they  themselves  defined  it,  their  music  was 
'  Hm  el  edwar,'  the  science  of  cercles.  La  Borde's  '  Essai  sur  la  Musique 
Ancienne  et  Moderne,'  voL  i.  pp.  177-182  ;  and  Villoteau's  '  Essai  sur  la 
Musique  des  Arabes '  in  his  work  on  Egypt,  will  give  further  particulars. 

Zarzuelas,  or  Operas  Comiques,  have  been  recently  introduced  in  the 
Spanish  theatre,  and  meet  with  favour.  The  operas  are  mostly  imita- 
tions from  Verdi,  Auber,  eta,  and  of  little  value. 

The  old  airs  are  full  of  character  (grada  y  sal).  A  poetical  vein 
which  runs  throughout  renders  them  very  attractive.  To  appear  in  all 
their  glory,  they  must  be  heard  in  Andalusia  on  a  summer's  evening. 

There  are  also  political  airs  of  great  effect,  such  as  the  *  Himno  de 
Riego,'  and  the  wild  Basque  'Ay,  Ay,  Ay,  mutila  chapelligorriya !' 

Several  recent  collections  of  Basque  music  and  Zortzicos  (dances) 
may  be  now  obtained  at  San  Sebastian. 

The  music  in  the  churches  is  as  a  rule  very  indifferent. 

For  the  popular  Spanish  songs,  with  music,  see  '  Poesias  Populares ' 
colegidas  por  D.  Tomas  Segarra  (Brockhaus,  Leipzig,  1862).  The  Ooplas, 
Seguidillas,  etc.,  have  been  well  collected  by  F.  R.  Marin,  in  '  Cantos 
populares  Espanolas,'  5  vols.,  Seville,  1884.  The  Andalucian  Gipsy 
songs  are  to  be  found  in  the  'Coleccion  de  Cantos  Flamencos,'  by 
Demofilo  (Machado  y  Alvarez).  A  good  collection  of  Spanish  coplas, 
etc.,  with  originals  and  French  translations,  is  the  '  Chants  Populaires 
Espagnols,'  by  A.  Fouquier  (Paris,  1882).  On  early  Spanish  and  Visi- 
gothic  music  a  good  work  has  been  published  in  the  'Critical  and 
Bibliographical  Notes  on  Early  Spanish  Music,'  by  J.  F.  Riano  (Quaritch, 
London,  1887). 

Festivals. 

In  Spain,  the  dias  de  fiesta  are  almost  exclusively  of  a  religious  character. 
Besides  the  great  fiestas  de  precepto,  instituted  by  the  Santa  Madre  Iglesia 
to  gladden  the  heart  and  amuse  her  children,  there  are  dias  de  santos 
fixed  upon  in  honour  of  some  saint,  and  varying  according  to  his  or 
her  nationality.  Several  saints,  mostly  Spanish,  have  been  made 
patrons  and  tutelars,  patronos  of  cities,  of  which  several  were  natives, 
hijos — viz.  San  Isidro,  that  of  Madrid ;  at  Seville,  Stas.  Justa  y 
Rufina  ;  at  Valencia,  San  Vicente  Ferrer,  etc.  The  smallest  village,  the 
most  out-of-the-way,  insignificant  hamlet,  has  its  particular  saint  These 
festivities  take  place  everywhere  on  the  grandest  scale  that  the  means  of 
the  place  can  afford.  The  Church,  all  powerful  and  wealthy,  exacted 
sacrifices  from  the  pious  or  the  superstitious;  and  thus  its  great  festivities, 
especially  in  Italy  and  Spain,  are  remarkable  for  the  wondrous  display 
of  pageants  over  which  the  sovereign  presides,  and  in  which  the  humblest 


lxxxviii  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

subject  joins.  Functions  in  the  churches,  processions  through  the  street*, 
decked  with  flowers  and  shaded  by  awnings,  all  served  to  bring  religion 
before  the  eyes,  if  not  to  the  hearts,  of  the  people.  The  painter,  the 
sculptor,  the  poet  even  contributed  to  augment  the  effect  of  /undone*. 
Trade  profited  largely  by  them.  Great  periodical  gatherings  from  distant 
points  brought  men  who  could  have  some  sort  of  interchange  of  ideas,  etc., 
together.  Pilgrimages  to  celebrated  shrines  have  been  to  this  day  great 
favourites  with  relic-loving  Spaniards.  The  most  fashionable  shrines  in 
the  middle  ages  were  Jerusalem,  Rome,  Lor&to,  and  Santiago  de  Com- 
postella.  The  last,  from  the  12th  to  14th  century,  was  the  resort  of 
kings,  heroes,  and  the  pious  rabble.  In  the  '  Fabliaux,1  it  is  called  '  Le 
Pelerinage  d'Asturies,'  and  is  Froissart's '  Pelerinage  du  Baron  St  Jacques/ 
el  Santo  Varon.  The  reputed  death-place  of  St  James  the  Apostle  is 
not  yet  without  attractions  to  the  devout  both  in  Spain  and  abroad,  and 
pilgrims  flock  thither  in  considerable  numbers  in  the  month  of  July. 
We  shall  briefly  describe  the  most  noteworthy  festivities  in  the  year,  both 

religious  and  civil. 

January. — The  Jour-de-l'An  is  not  as  important  here  as  it  is  in 
France,  Christmas  being  the  great  public  festivity.  On  the  5th,  eve  of 
Twelfth-day,  Dia  de  Reyes  (Jour  des  Rois),  according  to  a  very  old 
tradition,  groups  of  urchins  and  vagabonds  go  about  the  streets  and  to 
the  gates  of  cities,  escorting  gallegos  and  other  simples,  who  are,  or  pre- 
tend to  be,  persuaded  that  the  Magi  are  coming,  to  receive  whom  they 
carry  ladders,  torches,  and  drums.  In  the  middle  and  upper  classes, 
estrechos  and  motes  are  the  fashion,  and  the  cake  (la  torta)  is  duly  eaten  ; 
and  the  haba  (bean)  makes  kings  here,  as  elsewhere.  On  the  23d,  San 
Ildefonso,  patron  of  Toledo,  at  which  city  great  festivities  take  place. 

On  the  17th,  another  popular  fiesta,  Las  Vudtas  de  San  Antonio — 
the  patron  of  cattle,  horses,  and  mules.  It  is  more  especially  a  Madri- 
ienian  festivity. 

v    On  the  23d,  Dias  or  Saints'-day  of  the  Prince  of  Asturias.     Levee 
at  the  palace  of  Madrid,  reviews  and  illuminations. 

February. — Carnival  takes  place  and  continues  during  several  days, 
especially  on  the  15th  ;  masks  go  about  the  streets,  intriguant,  as  the 
French  say,  acquaintances,  friends,  and  enemies,  all  with  good  taste  and 
suaviter  in  modo.  Balls  in  the  theatres.  Miercoles  de  Ceniza  (Ash 
Wednesday)  closes  the  gaieties. 

On  the  12th,  Santa  Eulalia,  Tutelar  of  Barcelona.  Great  festivities 
in  that  city. 

On  the  23d,  Santa  Marta,  Tutelar  of  Astorga.  Interesting  to  artists 
for  holiday  costumes. 

March. — The  Cuaresma  (Lent)  is  religiously  observed.  Sermons  in 
the  churches  ;  sacred  music  in  Madrid  and  the  larger  cities. 

On  the  1st,  San  Hiscio,  Tutelar  of  Tarifa.     On  the  19th,  St.  Josepk 


FESTIVALS.  lxxxiz 

— a  very  general  name  in  Spain.  Cards,  bonbons,  and  bouquets,  are 
sent  to  those  whose  dia  it  is ;  and  an  omission  is  a  grave  sin  in  the  eyes 
of  the  fair  sex.     On  that  day,  great  fiesta  at  Badajoz. 

On  or  about  the  22d,  Passion  Sunday — Visit  churches  (High  Mass) ; 
a  sermon  in  the  open  air  at  Seville  ;  Domingo  de  Ramos  ;  Palm  Sunday ; 
High  Mass  in  cathedrals ;  blessing  of  palms,  which  remain  suspended 
round  the  balconies  during  the  rest  of  the  year. 

April. — Holy  Week  is  the  most  interesting  period  of  the  Festival 
Fear.  The  tourist  must  omit  no  functon,  as  they  are  all  very  peculiar, 
national,  and  generally  impressive.  Endeavour  to  witness  them  in  a 
large  city,  especially  at  Seville ;  if  not,  at  Valencia,  Toledo,  or  Madrid. 
The  period  begins  on  Wednesday  the  1st,  and  lasts  till  Sunday,  called  de 
Pascua  de  Resurrection.  On  Thursday,  Jueves  Santo  at  Madrid,  the 
Lavatorio  takes  place,  in  commemoration  of  Christ  washing  the  disciples' 
feet.  The  ceremony  takes  place  at  the  palace,  and  after  the  morning 
service  or  oficios.  The  Queen  goes  through  the  unpleasant  process  of 
washing  the  feet  of  some  dozen  paupers,  who  partake  afterwards  of  a 
royal  limosna.  In  the  afternoon,  the  Queen  goes  in  state  to  make  the 
round  of  the  churches,  visitor  las  estaciones.  On  Friday,  Viemes  Santo, 
a  grand  procession  takes  place  through  the  streets.  The  best  is  at 
Seville,  where  it  is  '  irreverently  but  not  inappropriately*  called  '  El 
Carnaval  Divino.'  The  great  peculiarity  of  the  procession  consists  in 
the  '  Pasos,'  or  groups  of  sculptured  effigies,  painted,  and  often  dressed 
up,  intending  to  represent  the  different  passages  of  the  Passion  of  Christ, 
and  borne  on  men's  shoulders. 

These  '  Pasos*  are  the  property  of  religious  associations,  Cofradias 
{cum  frater)y  several  of  them  still  very  wealthy,  which  sprang  up  about 
the  14th  century.  These  'Pasos,'  many  of  great  intrinsic  value  as 
works  of  art,  began  to  be  introduced  in  processions  in  the  early  portion 
of  the  17th  century.  They  were  originally  borne  on  the  shoulders  of 
'penitents  (nazarenos).  Their  dress — long,  white,  or  black  robes,  with 
high  pointed  caps,  and  faces  covered — is  still  worn  in  remembrance  of 
them — names  surviving  things.  The  Cofradias  vie  with  each  other  in 
producing  the  greatest  effect  at  these  processions.  The  principal  Cofradia 
at  Seville  is  that  of  *  El  Santo  Entierro/  of  which  the  Sovereign  is  Her- 
mano  Mayor,  and  its  Paso  is  the  finest.  It  dates  from  the  conquest  of 
Seville  by  St.  Ferdinand.  Visit  the  '  Monumento '  in  the  churches — a 
gigantic  temple  of  painted  wood-work,  often  that  of  great  artists,  upon 
which  the  Host  is  placed  for  the  Mass  on  Good  Friday.  Attend,  also, 
to  the  '  Miserere/  sung  after  dark  in  the  churches.  At  Valencia  it  is 
particularly  impressive.  The  Holy  Week  functions  are  believed  to  be 
superior  in  pomp  and  interest  at  Seville  to  those  at  Rome. 

About  the  middle  of  the  month  the  animated  '  Feria*  (fair)  takes 
place  at  Seville,  outside  the  Puerta  do  San  Fernando.     It  should  not  be 


*<*  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

overlooked  by  artists,  and  is  most  peculiar  and  national.     On  the  5th, 
San  Vicente,  Tutelar  of  Valencia — great  festivities  there. 

May. — At  Madrid,  the  political  f6te  del  Dos  de  Mayo,  and  on  the 
15th  San  Isidro,  Tutelar  of  the  metropolis  ;  a  Romeria  takes  place  outside 
the  town. 

20th.  Grand  Fiesta  at  Eonda. 

June, — The  verbenas,  veladas  (wakes  or  virgils),  of  San  Juan  ;  on  the 
24th,  of  San  Antonio  de  Padua  ;  14th,  at  Madrid. 

18th.  San  Ciriaco  and  Santa  Paula,  Tutelars  of  Malaga. 

El  Dia  del  Corpus,  Corpus  Christi  Day  (La  FSte-Dieu),  generally  takes 
place  the  first  Thursday  after  Trinity  Sunday.  It  is  celebrated  with 
great  pomp  in  all  capitals.  The  middle  and  lower  classes  prepare  their 
best  and  new  toilettes  for  that  day.  Streets  are  covered  with  awnings. 
Flowers  or  fine  gravel  soften  the  hard  pavement  for  tiny  feet  to  move 
slowly  about,  and  processions  take  place. 

July. — On  the  25th,  Santiago,  Patron  of  Spain.  Tourists  in  the 
North  should  endeavour  to  be  at  Santiago  on  that  day,  or  on  the  2d  at 
Goruna. 

August — On  the  6th,  Fiesta  at  Oviedo  and  Avila  ;  on  the  15th,  La 
Ascension,  the  Blessed  Virgin's  Day — Church  functions — High  Mass  at 
cathedrals.  On  the  20th,  Fiestas  of  St  Greiras  and  San  Boque,  near 
Gibraltar. 

September. — The  Feria  at  Madrid  begins  on  the  21st  and  lasts  a 
fortnight.  It  is  scarcely  worth  while  mentioning  it,  and  is  falling  ofl 
every  year. 

October. — 5th,  San  Froilan,  Tutelar  of  Leon. 
9th.  Fiesta  at  Jerez. 

November. — On  the  1st  and  2d  the  cemeteries  are  visited,  the  tombs 
are  decorated  with  funeral  wreaths. 

December. — 6th.  Fiesta  at  Alicante.  The  last  week,  Fiestas  de 
Navidad,  Christmas.  Christmas  Eve,  La  Noche  Buena,  is  more  import- 
ant than  Christmas-day.  The  churches  are  profusely  lighted  up.  Music 
of  all  descriptions  fills  the  air.  Great  slaughter  of  'pavos'  (turkeys) 
takes  place,  and  there  begins  an  universal  gargantuism  of  popular  merri- 
ment, bonfires,  etc.  ;  pastrycook-shops  are  decked  out  with  ribbons, 
flowers,  and  literally  burst  with  mazapanes,  jaleas,  and  turron  ;  the  mar- 
ket-places exhibit  pyramids  of  oranges,  melons — the  '  Nacimientos/  ot 
pasteboard   representations   of  the   Nativity,   with   terra-cotta   figures, 


i 


COSTUMES — NATIONAL   DRESS.  XCi 

eagerly  purchased  by  children,  and  lighted  up  in  every  house,  rich  or 
poor.  Suppers  take  place  that  night,  and  at  midnight  mass,  la  Misa  del 
OaUo. 

Besides  the  above,  there  are  very  curious  and  early  customs  still  in 
fashion  in  many  out-of-the-way  cities  and  shrines.   Most  were  established 
in  honour  of  the  Virgin  Santisima,  whose  name  changes  according  to 
the  different  attributes  of  her  intercession,  such  as  Nuestra  Senora  del 
Pilar,  de  la  0.,  del  Buen  Viege,  La  Blanca,  del  Buen  Consejo,  de  las 
Nieves,  de  la  Merced,  del  Milagro,  del  Amparo,  de  la  Correa,  del  Remedio, 
de  la  Paz,  etc  etc.,  in  all  upwards  of  thirty.     The  principal  Pilgrimages 
are — to  Montserrat,  Santiago  de  Compostella  and  S.  N.  del  Pilar,  at 
Zaragoza.      Our   readers  will  find  the  following  an  interesting  book 
upon  such  matters :  '  Belaciones  de  Solemnidades  y  Fiestas  Piiblicas  de 
Espana,'  by  Don  Go.  Alenda ;  Mad.  1866.     It  has  deserved  the  '  premio ' 
awarded  by  the  Biblioteca  National. 


Costumes— National  Dress. 

The  lower  classes  still  retain  their  picturesque  national  dress.  The 
upper  orders  have  adopted  the  prosaic  chimney-top  hat,  sombrero  de  copa, 
and  other  such-like  abominations  in  the  artist's  eye.  Ladies,  alas  !  are 
also  fast  divesting  themselves  of  the  graceful  veil,  the  lace  mantilla, 
which  become  their  especial  cast  of  beauty ;  and  the  provincials  alone 
have  been  preserved  from  the  invasion  of  bonnets  and  mantelets.  Each 
province  has  a  peculiar  dress,  the  populations  of  the  south  and  south-east 
approaching  more  to  the  original  type,  the  Moorish  dress — those  of  the 
eastern  coast  wearing  the  head-gear  of  their  Phrygian  fathers,  etc. 

The  mantilla  is  worn  especially  in  the  morning  to  go  to  mass  and 
shopping  d  tiendas.  The  white  fine  blond  or  lace  one  is  now  seldom  used, 
and  only  at  the  bull-fight  and  Dia  de  Corpus;  the  one  more  usually  put 
on  is  made  of  black  lace,  or  of  raso,  satin,  or  silk — the  latest  fashion  has 
introduced  the  antiquated  manto,  which  is  a  mantilla  with  a  silken  casco, 
and  a  lace  or  blond  veil  that  just  covers  the  face  ;  cocas,  or  the  coiffure 
a  rimpdratrice  is  adopted,  to  which  tiny  side-curls  are  added,  called 
picardias,  caracoles  de  amor,  etc.,  with  a  stripe  or  two  of  black  velvet,  to 
which  a  fringe  (Jleco)  of  passementerie,  with  jet  beads,  is  sometimes  added 
The  best  places  to  purchase  one  are  at  Madrid,  Margarit  and  Fabrica  de 
Almagro,  and  at  Seville  and  Barcelona.  The  prices  vary  from  500r.  to 
3000  and  4000r. ;  but  a  good  one  maybe  had  for  1200r.  Large  pins 
on  the  sides  fasten  it  to  the  hair.  We  may  be  permitted  to  advise  our 
fair  readers  not  to  adopt  it,  unless  they  wish  to  be  stared  at,  for,  how- 
ever gracefully  they  will  put  it  on  and  wear  it,  the  aquel,  ce  je  ne  sais 
cuoi,  is  sure  to  be  wanting  and  cause  more  attention  than  admiration. 


xcil  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

It  is  almost  exclusively  the  headgear  worn  in  churchea  Travellers  who 
possess  sufficient  reliable  knowledge  of  the  article,  together  with  the 
faculty  of  bargaining,  should  search  diligently  in  the  larger  towns  for 
second-hand  laces. 

In  the  male  costume,  the  capo  (cloak)  is  still  very  much  used  ;  but 
without  a  cape  or  esclavina  ;  the  quietest  colours  are  worn  by  gentlemen 
— invisible  green,  brown,  black,  with  a  black  or  green  velvet  lining,  forro 
and  vueltas.  The  usual  price  is  20  to  30  dollars.  We  likewise  advise 
our  male  readers  to  abstain  appearing  in  it.  It  is  a  whole  science  to  know 
how  to  embozarze  in  the  folds,  there  being  at  least  seventeen  different  ways. 
There  is  some  difficulty  in  finding  prints,  coloured  or  otherwise,  of  Spanish 
costumes.  An  album  des  costumes  espagnols  (one  separately  for  army  uni- 
forms) may  be  purchased  in  Paris  and  Bayonne,  and  is  reliable. 

Fans  are  worn  as  much  as  ever,  and  are  used  not  only  for  protection 
from  the  heat,  but  as  a  formidable  instrument  of  coquetry.  The  Louis 
XIV.  and  Louis  XV.  fans,  gems  of  miniature  and  workmanship,  are  very 
rarely  met  with  in  Spain,  most  of  the  best  having  been  sold  to  foreign 
amateurs,  and  the  rest  being  heirlooms.  The  more  common  fan  (abanico), 
with  Spanish  subjects,  roughly  painted,  but  quaint  and  full  of  couleur 
locale,  may  be  purchased  at  Madrid,  Colombia,  Calle  del  Carmen,  and  at 
Seville  and  Barcelona.  Bull-fights,  and  the  recent  African  campaign, 
furnish  the  subjects.  Fans  with  figures,  landscapes,  etc,  are  called 
abanicos  apaisados ;  the  handle  is  called  el  puno.  Fans  are  of  all  sizes, 
prices,  and  materials.  Sandal-wood,  studded  with  inlaid  steel  arabesques, 
are  in  great  request.  Ivory  and  bone  fans  from  China,  de  Filipinos,  are 
to  be  purchased  reasonably  in  Madrid,  Barcelona,  etc  There  is  also  a 
huge,  umbrella-sized,  circular,  1-real  fan,  which  is  exclusively  used  at 
the  bull-fight.     Prices  of  fans  vary  from  3  to  50  pesetas. 

Spanish  garters,  ligas,  are  very  quaint,  with  mottoes  replete  with  gal- 
lantry and  '  Honi  soit  qui  bien  y  pense,'  Andalucian  gratia. 


Dances. 

Save  on  the  stage,  or  in  a  provincial  fiesta,  the  bails  national  has  well- 
nigh  disappeared,  and  even  there  it  no  longer  is  the  racy  com  de  Espafta 
which  it  formerly  was.  With  the  upper  classes,  the  dances  are  of  course 
those  in  fashion  in  the  salons  of  Paris,  London,  and  Vienna.  The 
traveller  may  chance  here  and  there  to  meet  with  a  romeria,  merienda,  or 
picnic  party,  in,  the  suburbs  of  cities,  where  the  bolero  and  fandango  are 
still  danced,  but  rrwnus  the  sparkling  gold  lace  and  silver  filigree  costume 
and  motley  saya,  Spanish  dancers  were  celebrated  in  all  times,  especially 
the  Cadiz  dancing-girls,  whose  grace  and  laissez  oiler  delighted  the  Roman 
voluptuaries,  and  have  been  sung  by  Martial  (B.  3,Ep.  63,  v.  79  ;  vi  71), 


•  •• 


DANCES.  XClii 

by  Juvenal  (S.  2,  v.  162) ;  Strabo,  etc  The  dances  differ  in  each  pro- 
vince. The  danza  prima  is  peculiar  to  Asturias  ;  the  jota  Aragonesa,  to 
Aragon  ;  the  muneiray  to  Gallicia  ;  las  hobos  verdes,  to  Leon,  etc  ;  but 
Andalucia  is  the  land  of  the  jaleo  de  Jerez — the  cachucha  of  Cadiz, 
rondenas  of  Bonda. 

Dancing  was  always  a  national  amusement  in  Spain ;  and  figures 
belonging  to  very  early  dances  of  a  religious  and  heroic  character  may 
still  be  seen  in  several  parts  of  the  country.  They  were  mostly,  what 
they  now  are,  graceful  and  voluptuous,  as  the  weakening  effect  of  the  sun 
on  limbs  predisposes  the  body  to  be  pliant  and  elastic  They  are  gener- 
ally gay,  especially  in  the  South  ;  and  the  fandango  and  cachucha  date 
from  times  prior  to  the  Romans — the  castagnettes  (castahuelas)  being 
mentioned  by  Juvenal,  who  calls  the  clicking  of  them  'Tertarum 
crepitus.'  The  Pyrrhic,  or  sword-dance,  was  an  Iberian  and  Celtic 
amusement,  and  is  now  sometimes  performed  in  the  Basque  Provinces. 
In  the  North,  men,  almost  exclusively,  were  the  performers ;  whilst  in 
the  South,  dancing  was  a  woman's  department,  as  it  is  still  in  the  East. 
As  now  happens,  there  were  few  plays  that  ended  without  the  balU 
national : — 

Al  fin,  con  un  baylezito, 
Iba  la  gente  contenta. 

Roxas,  Viagtt  1614. 

Dances,  composed  expressly  for  the  occasion,  besides  the  usual  ones, 
formed  part  of  the  earliest  performances  of  the  Spanish  theatre  ;  and  as 
an  actor  says  in  one  of  Lope  de  Vega's  plays  ( '  La  Gran  Sultana ' ) — 

There  ne'er  was  born  a  Spanish  woman  yet, 
But  she  was  born  to  dance. 

Persons  of  all  ages  and  ranks  shared  in  the  fashion  ;  and  just  as  Cardinal 
Richelieu  used  to  dance  the  Sarabande  to  captivate  the  fair  Anne 
d'Autriche,  so  also  the  Duke  of  Lerma,  being  premier  to  Philip  IV., 
was  reckoned  the  best  dancer  of  his  day.  The  dances  of  the  17th  cen- 
tury, laying  aside  the  grave  courtly  minuet  and  subsequent  gavotte, 
retained  so  much  of  the  Cancan  style  introduced  in  the  South  by  the 
Gaditan  Rigolboches,  that  Guevara  declares  that  the  devil  invented  them 
all,  which  Cervantes  admits,  especially  of  the  Zarabanda  (probably  an 
Alme'e  Moorish  dance) ;  and  in  1621  government  endeavoured  to  put 
them  down,  and  well  nigh  succeeded.  The  Zarabanda  began  to  be  known 
in  1 588  at  Seville,  and  was,  says  Mariana,  invented  by  a  devil  in  woman's 
shape. 

The  gipsies'  dance  has  retained  part  of  the  freedom  of  those  times,  and 
must  not  be  omitted  by  amateurs.  It  is  a  most  graceful  dislocation  of 
the  human  body. 

Readers  who  may  feel  disposed  to  know  more  on  the  subject  of  Spanish 


XCIV  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

dances  are  referred  to  the  following  works  : — *  Donayres  de  Terslcore, 
by  Deza  y  Avila ;  1663.  '  GifFord's  Notes'  in  vol.  ii.  p.  159  of 
'  Juvenal's  Satires  ; '  Philadelphia,  1803.  Rupere's  Notes  on  the  same 
passage  in  Juvenal ;  Lipsias,  1801  ;  8vo.  S.  xi.  '  Pellicer's  Origen/  etc.j 
voL  L  in  the  'Diablo  Cojuelo/  Tranco  L,  et«5.  'Filosofia  Antigua 
Poetica,'  by  Pinciano  ;  1596.  Also  Larramendi's  Corogratta  de  Gui- 
puzcoa  (Barcelona,  1882). 

The  Theatre. 

The  Spanish  theatre  in  many  of  its  attributes  and  characteristics  stands 
by  itself.  It  takes  no  cognisance  of  ancient  example,  for  the  spirit  of 
antiquity  could  have  little  in  common  with  materials  so  modern,  christian, 
and  romantic.  It  borrowed  nothing  from  the  drama  of  France  or  of  Italy, 
for  it  was  in  advance  of  both  when  its  final  character  was  not  only  de- 
veloped but  settled.  And  as  for  England,  though  Shakspeare  and  Lope 
were  contemporaries,  and  there  are  points  of  resemblance  between  them, 
which  it  is  pleasant  to  trace  and  difficult  to  explain,  still  they  and  their 
schools,  undoubtedly,  had  not  the  least  influence  on  each  other.  The 
Spanish  drama  is,  therefore,  entirely  national.  Many  of  its  best  subjects 
are  taken  from  the  chronicles  and  traditions  familiar  to  the  audience  that 
listened  to  them,  and  its  prevalent  versification  reminded  the  hearers,  by 
its  sweetness  and  power,  of  what  had  so  often  moved  their  hearts  in  the 
earliest  outpourings  of  the  national  genius.  With  all  its  faults,  this  old 
Spanish  drama,  founded  on  the  great  traits  of  the  national  character, 
maintained  itself  in  the  popular  favour  as  long  as  that  character  existed 
in  its  original  attributes;  and  even  now  it  remains  one  of  the  most 
striking  and  one  of  the  most  interesting  portions  of  modern  literature. 
(Ticknor's  '  History  of  Spanish  Literature/  vol.  iL  chap,  xxvi)  The  drama 
is  the  mirror  of  a  nation's  character,  and  the  best  handbook  to  the  manners 
and  customs  of  a  period  is  the  lecture  of  its  dramatic  literature  at  that 
time.  As  over  all  manifestations  of  the  popular  mind,  so  over  the  spirit 
of  the  drama,  the  Church  stood  sentinel,  watched  its  progres3  with  jealousy, 
and,  unable  to  confine  it  within  the  narrow  religious  channel,  declared 
open  war  against  it,  visiting  those  who  attended  representations  with 
excommunication,  denying  Christian  burial  to  actors  (the  first  time  by 
67th  canon  of  the  Illiberian  Council),  not  allowing  them  to  marry,  etc., 
a  reminiscence  of  the  Roman  contempt  for  histrions.  The  earliest  form 
of  the  drama  was  therefore  the  religious  representations  of  scriptural 
events — the  Mysteries  (misterios),  which  were  in  fashion  till  the  time  of 
Philip  II.  The  theatres  were  closed  oftentimes  for  years  through  ecclesi- 
astical influence,  and  then  re-opened  by  the  caprice  of  an  amateur  monarch, 
or  the  impulse  of  the  growing  popularity  that  they  were  daily  obtaining. 
The  religious  dramas,  many  of  them  very  gross  and  licentious,  were  also 
acted  in  nunneries  and  monasteries.     The  real  founder  of  the  Spanish 


THE  THEATRE.  XCV 

drama  was  Lope  de  Rueda  (1544-67),  who  boldly  abandoned  all  remind, 
scences  of  the  mysteries  and  struck  out  a  new  path.  The  theatrical 
resourses  were  those  of  the  most  meagre  character.  A  manager's  whole 
apparatus  was,  according  to  Cervantes,  contained  in  a  large  sack.  The 
theatre  consisted  of  four  benches  arranged  in  a  square,  with  boards  laid 
across  them,  and  raised  a  little  from  the  ground.  The  furniture  was  an 
old  blanket,  drawn  aside  by  two  cords.  Behind  it  stood  the  musicians, 
'  who  sang  old  ballads  without  a  guitar.'  A  public  square  was  the  site 
chosen  for  the  temporary  erection  of  the  theatre.  The  audiences  were 
collected  around ;  the  performance  took  place  by  daylight ;  and  the  plays 
themselves  were  colloquies,  with  little  or  no  action,  but  divided  into 
several  scenes,  written  with  spirit,  humour,  and  so  as  to  display  the  salt 
(sal)  of  the  graciosOy  or  simples  as  they  were  first  called,  on  whose  perfor- 
mance the  success  mainly  depended.  Cervantes  and  Lope  de  Vega  raised 
the  drama  to  a  higher  sphere  and  placed  it  in  a  wider  range  ;  but  the 
implacable  Church  compelling  him  to  relinquish  secular  plays,  he  had 
resort  to  the  Comedias  de  Santos,  from  subjects  found  in  their  lives,  and 
Autos  Sacramentales  (a  forensic  term  from  actus,  a  decree)  or  sacramental 
acts ;  these  religious  plays  used  to  be  performed  in  the  streets  and  squares 
on  great  church  holidays ;  Lope  de  Vega  wrote  400  of  them.  The  period 
when  Madrid  became  the  real  metropolis  of  the  kingdom,  about  1560, 
the  drama  commenced  a  career  of  progress  and  prosperity ;  playhouses 
were  established  under  the  patronage  of  the  nobility,  and  Lope  de  Vega's 
genius  gave  life  to  them.  To  his  school  belong  some  of  the  greatest 
dramatic  writers  that  Spain  has  possessed,  such  as  Tirso  de  Molina 
('  Burlador  de  Sevilla,'  '  Vergonzoso  en  Palacio,'  etc.) ;  Guillen  de  Castro 
('  Mocedades  del  Cid/  imitated  by  Corneille,  *  Le  Cid ') ;  Guevara  ('  Mas 
pesa  el  Rey  que  la  Sangre ') ;  Montalvan  ('  Orfeo/  '  Amantes  de  Teruel/ 
and  '  Don  Carlos  *) ;  Alarcon  ('  Texedor  de  Segovia/  '  Verdad  Sospechosa'), 
etc.  Calderon  de  la  Barca  was,  with  Lope,  the  great  luminary  of  the 
Spanish  drama,  and  the  most  national  of  its  writers.  Besides  Autos 
Sacramentales  ^  Devocion  de  la  Cruz,'  and  others),  he  wrote  '  Capa  y 
Espada '  comedies  and  purely  heroic  ones  (c  Amar  despues  de  la  Muerte,' 
'  El  Mexlico  de  su  Honra/  '  El  Mayor  Monstrao,  los  Zelos/  etc.)  The 
Spanish  drama  reached  the  acme  of  its  prosperity  in  the  reign  of 
Philip  IV.,  from  1621  to  1665.  The  glorious  sun  thus  rose  from  among 
the  mediaeval  darkness  of  the  misterios,  expanding  gradually,  until  it  set 
magnificently  towards  the  death  of  Calderon,  when  decay  began.  But 
even  then  we  have  such  men  as  Moreto  ('Desden  con  el  Desden'), 
Roxas  f  Del  Rey  abaxo  ninguno/  etc.),  besides  a  host  of  minor  ingenios, 
conspicuous  only  like  the  stars,  whose  light  shines  the  more  when  the 
sun  has  set. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century,  just  as  the  French  had  previously 
imitated  the  Spanish  drama,  the  Spaniards  now  strove  to  adopt  the  style 


XCV1  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

of  the  French  plays.  Corneille's  c  Cinna'  was  translated,  1713  ;  Racine's 
'Athalie'  in  1747,  etc.  Of  this  period  we  may  mention  Moratin  the 
elder  (*  Guzman  el  Bueno '),  Cadahalso  ('  Sancho  Garcia ')  Iriarte  (c  The 
Ill-bred  Miss,'  etc.),  Moratin  the  younger,  one  of  the  most  successful 
comic  writers  ('  Si  de  Las  Ninas/  *  El  Cafe* ').  The  present  day  has  seen  a 
revival  of  the  Spanish,  and  especially  of  the  Catalan  drama.  The  melo- 
drama finds  favour  with  the  lower  classes ;  and  the  zarzuelas,  or  operas 
comiques,  are  preferred  to  plays  of  the  old  school.  We  must  except  some 
original  and  national  authors,  whose  productions  we  recommend  to  the 
playgoer,  however  much  he  may  feel  *  new '  to  their  peculiar  character  and 
effect — viz.  the  Duke  of  Rivas,  whose  *  Fuerza  del  Sino '  has  become 
Verdi's  libretto  of  the  opera  '  La  Forza  del  Destino;'  Garcia  Gutierrez, 
whose  stirring  'Trovador'  is  another  of  Verdi's  triumphs;  Rodriguez 
Rubi  ('  La  Rueda  de  la  Fortuna ')  ;  Ventura  de  la  Vega  ('  Hombre  de 
Mundo  ') ;  Jos6  Zorilla  f  D.  Juan  Tenorio ')  ;  Luis  Eguilaz  ('  Verdades 
Amargas ') ;  Hartzembush  ('  Amantes  de  Teruel ') ;  Echegaray  ;  Tamayo 
y  Baus ;  Nunez  de  Arce,  etc.  The  vein  •  of  enthusiasm  that  runs 
through  Spaniards,  their  love  of  romance  and  the  marvellous,  their 
natural  quickness  of  apprehension  and  sense  of  the  ridiculous,  their 
childish  delight  in  tinsel  and  effect,  all  fit  them  to  succeed  in  the  drama. 
The  play-houses  themselves  naturally  shared  the  fate  of  the  drama. 
But  they  have  never  reached  in  Spain,  to  this  day,  the  space,  commodity, 
and  the  display  of  mechanical  means  employed  to  enhance  the  scenic 
effect  It  is  true  that  to  resort  to  the  latter  was  deemed  contemptible, 
and  the  plays  requiring  them  were  called  '  comedias  de  ruido,'  pieces  a 
machines.  Madame  D'Aulny,  who  was  in  Spain  in  1679-80,  mentions 
in  her  amusing  letters  a  sun  made  of  oiled  paper,  actors  quietly  climbing 
ladders,  placed  in  view  of  the  spectators,  to  reach  the  stage.  The  site  of 
the  theatre  was  a  court-yard,  patio,  or  corral ;  in  front  of  the  stage  were 
benches  for  those  who  bought  single  tickets  ;  the  crowd  stood  in  the  open 
air  and  paid  three  maravedis.  Here  stood  the  noisiest  and  disorderly 
part  of  the  audience,  called  '  mosqueteros '  (moscon,  a  large  fly),  from  the 
constant  buzzing,  on  whose  approbation  the  success  of  new  plays  always 
depended  (Alcazar,  Ortographia  Castellana,  Pellicer,  Origen,  etc).  Behind 
were  the  gradas, '  grees,'  or  rising  seats,  for  the  men  ;  and  the  cazuela, 
literally  '  stew-pan,'  exclusively  used  by  the  women  of  the  lower  orders, 
and  which  we  have  seen  not  many  years  ago  at  the  Teatro  de  la  Cruz, 
Madrid,  in  all  its  glory.  Above  were  the  desvanes  and  aposentos — that  is, 
balconies  and  rooms,  our  modern  boxes,  still  called  in  Spain  the  first  and 
second  floors,  the  rez-de-chaussee.  The  lower  ones  were  generally  railed, 
as  all  ground-floor  windows  are  in  Spain,  rejas,  whence  the  present 
French  hges  grilUes  and  vapour  bath,  baignoires.  These  rooms,  belong- 
ing to  houses  placed  round  three  sides  of  the  court-yard,  were  filled  by 
the  Court,  and  held  as  an  heirloom  from  generation  to  generation — as  it 


^ 


BULL-FIGHTS.  XCV11 

still  happens  at  Barcelona.  The  audiences  were  noisy — the  hissing  and 
1  victors !  *  were  signs  of  discontent  or  applause  ;  rattles,  bells,  and 
erackers,  often  augmenting  the  expression  of  the  former.  The  first  play- 
bill was  put  up  at  Granada  in  1600.  The  performances  took  place  by 
daylight,  and  consisted  of  a  loa,  or  prologue,  followed  by  the  first  jornado, 
or  act  of  the  principal  comedy  or  drama ;  entremeses  came  after,  amusing, 
light '  levers  de  rideau  ; '  the ,  second  act  of  the  comedy  ensued,  and  was 
followed  by  another  entremes,  music,  and  dancing  ;  and  the  finale  was 
usually  a  saynete  or  farce,  in  which  Spanish  actors  always  excelled 
Last  of  all,  as  even  is  now  often  the  case,  a  balle  national  terminated  the 
fiesta,  and  was  &fin  de  funcion.  Besides  the  splendid  Buen  Retiro  play- 
houses and  floating  theatres,  the  most  celebrated  have  existed  till  very 
lately,  such  as  the  Corrales  de  la  Cruz  and  Del  Principe,  which  were 
erected  at  the  request  of  Isabel  Farnese,  in  1743,  1745.  The  actors  of 
early  times  were  admirable  interpreters  of  the  genius  of  Lope  and  Cal- 
deron,  and  the  names  of  Figueroa,  Pinedo,  Prado,  are  associated  with 
their  greatest  success ;  Barbara  Coronel,  Maria  de  Cordova,  Baltasara, 
and,  more  latterly,  Maiquez,  Queral,  la  Rita  Luna,  la  Llorente,  Rodri- 
guez, and  the  gracioso  Guzman. 

Books  of  Reference, — The  best  critiques  on  the  Spanish  theatre  have  issued 
from  Germany.  Garcia*s,  Pellicer's,  Martinez  de  la  Rosa's,  Moratin's  (Z.) 
origins  of  the  Spanish  theatre  may  be  looked  to  for  general  information.  See 
also  'Tefioro  del  Teatro  EspaHol,*  5  vols.  (Baudry's  Coll.),  and  'Autores 
Dramaticos  Contemporaneos,'  by  D.  Pedro  de  Novo  y  Colson,  2  vols.  fol. ; 
Madrid,  1887. 


Bull-fights. 

This  is  the  national  fiesta  of  Spain,  at  which  the  lower  classes  are  seen 
in  all  their  character,  as  the  English  are  at  the  Derby.  We  shall  leave 
aside  all  reflections  on  the  cruelty,  bad  example,  bloodshed,  of  this 
spectacle,  and  allow  our  readers  to  judge  for  themselves.  We  shall  only 
remark  that  bull-fights  are  still  the  fashion,  that  they  have  lost  few  of 
their  former  characteristics,  and  that  tourists  should  not  fail  to  see  one 
at  least.  The  best  bull-fights — corridas  de  toros — take  place  at  Seville, 
the  great  centre  of  Tauromachia,  and  at  Madrid.  The  '  season '  begins 
the  first  Sunday  after  Lent,  a  '  funcion '  taking  place  on  every  Sunday — 
1  si  el  tiempo  lo  permite.'  There  is  a  pause  during  the  height  of  summer, 
and  a  second  season  begins  again  from  the  end  of  August  to  the  early 
part  of  October.  Each  corrida  costs  upwards  of  £400  at  Madrid  and 
Seville,  and  not  much  less  in  the  minor  cities.  The  bull-fighters  are 
divided  into  four  classes — espadas  (swords,  rapiers),  those  who  kill  the 
bulls  with  a  sword  ;  they  are  the  '  maestros  *  of  the  art,  men  of  great 
daring,  a  quick  eye,  firm  wrist,  and  presence  of  mind  ;  they  rise  from 


XCV111  GENERAL   INFORMATION. 

the  lower  class,  without  passing  by  that  of  picadores,  and  MIdw  the 
especial  rules  laid  down  by  some  great  master,  or  found  a  new  school 
themselves.  '  Aficionados '  (amateurs),  alone  can  see  the  differences  be- 
tween the  mertes.  The  most  celebrated  maestros  have  been  Montes, 
Romero,  Cdndido,  Pepe  Illo,  El  Chiclanero.  The  present  ones  are  paid 
from  1250  to  1500  pes.  for  each  corrida,  and  there  are  always  two  at  each 
funcion,  besides  a  *  sobresaliente,'  in  case  of  accidents.  The  second  class, 
the  BanderUleros,  from  bcmderilla,  a  small  flag,  or  barbed  dart,  are  paid 
250  to  400  pes.  each  corrida.  They  require  swiftness  of  foot  and  great 
dexterity.  The  third  class  are  the  Picadores,  from  pica,  a  lance.  They 
receive  500  pea  They  ride  jaded  Rosinante-hacks,  in  lieu  of  the  noble 
steeds  of  yore,  and  scarcely  defend  them  against  the  *  embestida '  of  the 
bull.  They  are  rather  looked  down  upon,  as  a  set  of  drunkards  and 
'  holgazanes.'  The  '  Chulos '  and  '  Capas '  form  the  fourth  class.  They 
are  picked  men,  as  their  business  requires  great  activity — '  ojo  y  condi- 
cion.'  They  are  paid  from  $15  to  $20  (300r.  to  400r.)  The  spectacle 
is  a  drama  in  three  acts.  First,  after  a  shrill  trumpet  has  announced 
the  beginning,  the  Toril  door  is  opened,  and  the  wretched  beast  rushes 
into  the  arena,  decorated  with  the  bright-ribboned  mona.  The  picadores 
advance,  each  in  turn,  and  attack,  or  rather  receive  the  bull's  attack. 
After  a  few  varas  have  been  split,  and  several  tumbles  duly  taken  place, 
the  banderillos,  at  the  sound  of  another  trumpet,  come  in  for  their  share, 
and  dart  their  arrows  about  the  bull's  gory  neck.  Sometimes,  when  the 
bicho  is  phlegmatic,  these  darts  are  provided  with  crackers,  which  ex- 
plode on  their  being  affixed,  and  madden  the  animal  A  few  minutes 
after,  at  the  sound  of  a  trumpet,  the  Espada  is  seen  advancing  towards 
the  bull,  after  having  pronounced  a  speech  before  the  Auloridad  presid- 
ing over  the  plaza,  in  which  he  asks,  pro  formd,  permission  to  kill  the 
foe,  and  offers  to  perform  the  suerte  in  a  way  that  shall  do  honour  to 
'  El  pueblo  de  Madrid,  or  el  Senorio.'  On  his  left  hand  he  holds  the 
muleta,  a  small  staff  with  a  deep  red  flag  that  serves  as  a  lure,  and  in  his 
right  a  good  Toledan  blade.  This  is  the  stirring  scene — the  duel,  the 
denouement.  After  the  bull's  death,  the  cachetero  sits  on  the  prostrate 
foe,  and  removes  all  doubts  by  darting  a  small  sharp-pointed  dagger,  el 
cachete  into  the  animal's  spine.  A  team  of  mules,  gaily  attired,  drag 
away  the  foredoomed  vencido  (vse  victis  !)  to  the  mulador  or  dung-heap, 
where  the  flesh  is  sold.  From  an  economical  point  of  view,  bull-fights 
may  by  some  be  regarded  as  detrimental  ;  but,  after  all,  the  greater  the 
consumption  the  greater  the  benefit  to  the  producers.  Something  like 
2400  bulls  are  killed  annually,  and  3500  horses.  The  money  value  of 
these  animals  will  amount  perhaps  to  1,800,000  pesetas.  About  450 
corridas  take  place  annually,  and  the  tickets  sold  amount  to  about 
3,000,000  pesetas.  The  different  ways  of  killing  a  bull,  and  of  placing 
banderillas,  are  called  suertes.  A  whole  especial  vocabulary  is  in  constant 
use,  and  may  be  soon  acquired.     The  best  works  are  : — 


^ 


SPORT.  XCix 

'Tauromaquia  Completa,'  by  Franco  Montes  ;  Madrid,  1836. 

'  Carta  historica  sobre  el  Orf gen  /  Progresos  de  las  Fiestas  de  Toros, 
by  N.  F.  de  Moratin ;  Madrid,  1777. 

'  Tauromaquia,  6  Arte  de  Torear  ;  Madrid,  1804,  por  un  aficionado. 
Excellent. 

El  Tor&f  El  EnanOy  and  La  IAdia  are  tbree  well-known  journals 
devoted  to  the  national  sport,  published  in  Madrid, 

Alcocer's  'Tratado  del  Fuego,  etc,  Salamanca,  PortonariiB,,  ii.  1558, 
examines  them,  along  with  tournaments,  etc,  in  a  religious  light. 


Lotteries. 

The  lottery  was  introduced  into  Spain  by  Charles  III.,  and  became  a 
great  source  of  revenue.  There  were  till  lately  two  lotteries — La  An- 
tigua, on  the  French  system,  and  La  Moderna ;  the  former  was  suppressed 
in  1861  from  fear  of  a  '  combinacion'  between  players  and  the  bureau 
clerks,  by  which,  had  the  large  prize  come  out,  the  treasury  would  have 
been  exhausted ;  and,  as  it  was,  £20,000  had  been  already  lost  by  Go- 
vernment in  a  preceding  sorteo  of  La  Moderna.  There  are  two — 
occasionally  three — sorteos  a  month.  The  ticket  costs  from  pes.  50  to  pes. 
100.  On  great  holidays,  such  as  Christmas  Day,  the  ticket  costs  250  pes., 
and  the  large  prize  is  then  of  200,000  duros,  about  £40,000,  besides 
several  minor  prizes,  the  number  of  tickets  being  then  from  25,000  to 
30,000.  The  maximum  premio  heretofore  has  been  of  1,020,000 
francs.  It  has  been  calculated  that  of  late  years  1100  persons  who  had 
got  prizes  have  become  landed  proprietors.  Be  this  as  it  may,  it  is  legal 
gambling — fevers  the  peasant  and  workman's  head  with  dreams,  and 
empties  his  larder  of  realities.  It  is  immoral,  and  will  some  day  be 
suppressed.  The  net  produce  to  the  State  is  about  £200,000.  The 
winning  tickets  that  have  never  been  claimed  amount  to  a  large  sum. 
All  but  the  State  lotteries  were  abolished  in  1882. 


Sport. 

Spain  is  eminently  a  country  of  the  rod  and  the  gun.  Spaniards  have 
been  always  great  sportsmen  (cazadores),  first-rate  shots  owing  to  the 
clearness  of  the  landscape  that  allows  all  distant  objects  to  be  so  much 
relieved,  and  the  constant  guerilla  warfare,  that  second  nature  of  the 
Iberian,  who,  come  what  may,  rule  who  will,  is  always  '  de  la  oposicion.' 
From  the  careless  way  in  which  game  is  preserved,  and  its  wild- 
ness,  the  sportsman  has  to  exert  himself  in  search  of  it,  and  not  wait  till 
it  meets  him,  as  in  the  fashionable  slaughter-covers  of  England  and 
France. 

9 


C  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

The  rabbit  (conejo)  is  abundant.  Indeed,  some  trace  the  origin  of 
the  name  of  Spain,  Hispania,  to  the  Hebrew  sephan,  a  rabbit  Hares 
{liebres),  red  and  white  legged  partridges  (perdices),  multiply  with  asto- 
nishing prolification ;  the  codorniz  (quail),  alandras  (larks — taken  with  the 
e&pejuelo,  or  mirror),  are  most  plentiful.  There  is  caza  mayor,  such  as 
wild  boars  (javalies),  deer  (venados) ;  and  caza  menor,  such  as  the  minor 
tribes  of  the  partridge,  the  rabbit,  and  hare.  The  shooting-season  begins 
in  September.  There  is  excellent  caza  de  paso,  birds  of  passage,  in  Sep- 
tember, October,  and  November,  of  codomices,  and  gallinetas  (sand-piper), 
and  chochas  (woodcocks),  about  Tarifa,  Gibraltar,  the  baldios  of  Andalucia, 
whose  thick  brushwood  affords  good  cover,  and  the  newly-ploughed 
campos  of  Castile.  In  November,  winter  shooting  begins,  and,  besides 
gallinetas,  bustards,  snipe  (agachadiza)  (whence,  *  hacer  la  agachadiza,'  to 
stoop  down  and  conceal  one's-self),  ansares  (wild  geese),  wild  duck  (patos), 
of  all  sorts  abound  in  shoals  in  the  marshes  (marismas)  and  lagoons 
(lagunas)  of  Albufera,  near  Valencia,  of  Alicante ;  and,  near  Gibraltar, 
of  Taivilla,  Retin,  Haudar,  Casavieja,  etc ;  where  8000  to  10,000  head 
can  be  brought  down  by  four  or  five  guns  in  one  month,  say  December. 
There  is  most  excellent  wild-boar  hunting,  on  foot  with  ojeadares  (or 
battue),  and  Sahuesos  dogs,  in  Sierra  Morena,  Sierra  de  Valdecabras,  and 
that  of  Cuenca.  In  the  Montes  de  Toledo,  the  hospitable  Nimrod,  lord 
of  a  great  portion  of  its  best  districts,  the  Marques  de  Malpica,  has  battues 
that  often  result  in  the  death  of  several  head  of  wild-boar.  In  Asturias, 
another  nobleman,  the  Marques  de  Camposagrado,  has  capital  sport  with 
bears,  wolves,  etc  Javatos,  deer,  and  stags  abound  in  the  Sierra  Morena. 
In  Sierra  Bermeja,  besides  these,  there  are  multitudes  of  corzos  (roe-deer), 
cobras  montesas,  wild  goat  f  La  cabra  sienipre  tira  al  monte),  like  the 
chamois  (ibex).  The  Conde  de  Luque  possesses  whole  districts  where 
they  are  found,  which  are  situated  between  Estepona  and  Marbella. 

On  the  Spanish  side  of  the  Pyrenees,  another  sort  of  wild  goat,  the 
rupricabra,  also,  called  cabra  montesa  (the  French  bouquetin,  buck),  and 
the  izard  and  bears  in  the  higher  mountains  afford  excellent  sport,  now 
so  rare  in  the  French  Pyrenees. 

There  is  likewise  some  first-rate  fishing,  and  salmon  abounds  in  the 
N.  and  N.W.  coasts  of  Spain.  Trout  is  equally  plentiful  in  the  rapid 
crystalline  rivers  in  the  Pyrenees,  Gallicia,  and  Asturias.  Near  Madrid 
the  angler  will  do  well  to  visit  the  country  about  Avila,  Plasencia,  and 
Cuenca,  which  also  afford  excellent  localities.  The  Spanish  Mediterranean 
coast  is  well  provided  with  fish,  such  as  the  delicious  boquerones  of 
Malaga,  miyoles,  and  planosrayas.  The  Guadalquivir  contains  several 
good  species.     There  are  excellent  oysters  at  el  Padron  (Gallicia). 

For  all  information  on  sport  in  Spain  the  reader  should  consult  Wild 
Spain,  by  A.  Chapman  and  W.T.Buck  (London :  Gurney  and  Jackson,!  893). 


CIGARS   AND  TOBACCO.  CI 


Cigars  and  Tobacco. 


A  Spanish  satirist  has  said  that  real  progress  will  not  begin  in  Spain 
until  a  decree  comes  out  prohibiting  the  use  of  cloaks,  knives,  and 
cigarettes.  '  Vamos  a  echar  nn  puro'  is  worse  than  twenty  tragos,  for 
the  wine  ends  by  being  drained,  but  the  puro  never  ends.  A  puro,  nay, 
a  humble  pita,  or  paper  cigar,  goes  a  great  length  here.  It  serves  as  a 
letter  of  introduction,  a  shaking  of  the  hands — *  un  cigarre  fait  des  amis 
et  rapproche  des  ennemis.'  A  Spaniard  smokes  always  and  everywhere  ; 
when  he  is  shaving,  at  meals,  in  the  Paseo,  the  couloirs  of  the  Opera- 
house,  at  the  bull-fight,  etc  It  often  is  a  substitute  for  meat  and  the 
'copa*  of  the  poor  man,  and  is  always  the  wealthier  man's  dessert. 
Towards  the  middle  of  the  16th  century  Spain  and  Portugal  received  the 
first  samples  of  tobacco  from  America.  The  Spaniards  called  it  tabaco, 
from  the  island  of  Tabago,  one  of  the  Antilles,  near  the  coast  of  Caracas. 
Monsieur  de  Nicot,  French  ambassador  at  Lisbon  (1560),  sent  some  leaves 
of  it  to  Catherine  of  Medici,  who  took  a  liking  to  it,  using  it  as  snuflj 
and  the  fashion  began  for  ladies  to  take  snuff,  thanks  to  which  we  are 
now  in  possession  of  whole  collections  of  exquisite  miniatures  and 
chiselling  with  which  snuff-boxes  were  ornamented.  A  reaction,  how- 
ever, afterwards  ensued ;  and  although  Moliere  said, i  quoi  que  puisse 
dire  Aristote  et  toute  la  philosophic,  il  n'y  a  rien  d'dgal  au  tabac/  French 
doctors  of  his  day  wrote  against  it,  especially  Fagon.  Pope  Urban  VIII. 
(1624)  excommunicated  those  who  took  snuff  in  churches.  Sultan 
Amurat  IV.  had  smokers  condemned  to  death,  and  snuff-takers  had  their 
noses,  as  being  the  corps  de  d&lit,  cut  off.  In  1661,  the  Senate  of  Berne 
published  a  Decalogue,  in  which  smoking  was  announced  as  prohibited 
by  God.  In  1603,  James  I.  of  England  wrote  his  pamphlet  against 
smoking,  calling  it  a  habit,  'disgusting  to  the  sight,  repulsive  to  the 
smell,  dangerous  to  the  brain,  unwholesome  for  the  chest,'  etc.,  and  his 
proclamations  against  it  were  couched  in  very  severe  terms.  Dr. 
Almiron  Zayas  wrote,  in  1623,  a  book  (see  below)  on  the  abuses  and 
bad  consequences  of  smoking  and  taking  snuff,  and  Dr.  Arias  another. 
But  the  use  continued  and  has  become  very  general. 

Children  of  five  and  six  years  old  are  seen  smoking  in  Spain.  There 
are  men  who  smoke  ten  to  fourteen  puros  a-day.  Epileptic  fits,  consump- 
tion, dyspepsia,  and  nervous  affections,  are  the  more  usual  effects  attending 
excesses.  Dr.  Ayo  (1645)  mentions  it  as  an  excellent  medicine,  a 
liqueur  being  extracted  from  it  called  c  miszela.'  Chilblains  are  cured,  he 
Bays,  by  rubbing  them  with  dry  tobacco-leaves,  and  then  washed  with 
warm  brine. 

Tobacco  is  a  monopoly  of  the  State,  there  being  about  half  a  dozen 
huge  factories — in  some  of  the  principal  towns,  Sevilla,  Valencia,  Sant- 
ander,  etc.     The  cultivation  of  the  plant  is  forbidden  in  Spain — where 


CU  GENERAL   INFORMATION. 

it  would  succeed  admirably — for  the  sake  of  benefiting  the  Habanas  ! 
The  consumption  of  tobacco,  in  its  various  forms,  amounts  to  some 
twenty  millions  of  pounds  per  annum.  Travellers  will  do  well  to 
remember  the  subjoined  observations.  Fairly  good  and  very  low-priced 
cigars  may  be  got  occasionally  from  ship  captains,  concierges,  etc.  etc.,  but 
it  is  at  the  expense  of  throwing  away  a  goodly  proportion  if  one's  palate 
is  at  all  fastidious. 

Good  Habana  cigars  are  an  article  seldom  met  with  in  the  country 
that  rules  the  island  of  Cuba.  They  are  sometimes  to  be  found  at 
restaurants  or  clubs.  The  surest  way  is  to  write  for  them  to  Cuba,  01 
purchase  them  at  the  Cadis  Custoni-House.  N.B. — Boxes  sent  from 
Cuba  to  parties  are  often  changed  at  the  Custom-House.  The  best  cigars 
in  the  world  are  sent  to  London,  New  York,  and  St.  Petersburg.  Impo- 
rition,  not  always  to  be  detected  by  connoisseurs,  takes  place  in  this 
trade.  Thus  the  tripa,  or  inside,  is  often  of  inferior  quality,  whilst  the 
capa,  or  external  leaf,  is  of  the  very  best  sort.  Again,  such  poor 
materials  as  Holandilla,  made  at  Vitoria,  burn  snow-white  ashes,  which 
is  effected  by  means  of  potash  and  soda.  A  false  aroma  can  also  be 
communicated  by  means  of  steeping  the  leaves  in*  opium  (that  is  a  general 
practice  with  most  cigars),  or  with  vanille.  The  requisites  for  a  first-rate 
cigar  are  :  that  it  should  burn  by  itself  when  lighted  without  going  out 
for  some  time — that  the  ashes  be  whitish-grey,  without  thick  grains,  and 
leaving  but  a  faint  ring  round  the  burning  ends — that  the  smoke  should 
ascend  freely — that  the  taste  should  be  agreeable  to  the  palate,  soft,  and 
not  acid.  The  colour  of  the  cigar  generally  indicates  the  degree  of  strength 
— 'Colorado  claro,  oscuro.'  The  strength  of  a  cigar  also  denotes  the  flavour, 
and  when  proceeding  from  a  good  manufacturer  the  stronger  are  always 
the  best.  The  names,  like  those  of  Bordeaux  wines,  distinguish  the  vegas 
that  produce  very  dissimilar  weeds.  The  Vuelta  de  Abajo  is  generally 
the  best  district.  There  are  9482  vegas,  or  tobacco-plantations.  The 
principal  types  for  sizes  and  shapes  are  :  Imperiales,  Prensados,  Regalia, 
half-Regalia,  Trabucos-damas ;  the  extremer  being  purones  of  25  centi- 
metres long,  the  smallest  of  5  centimetres.  The  best  Fabricas  at  the 
Habana  are  :  Partagas,  Cabanas,  La  India,  and  La  Espanola.  The  prices,  in 
Spain,  vary  from  3  duros  to  25  duros  the  hundred.  Average  really  good 
cigars  cannot  be  had  under  8  dollars.  Let  them  not  be  too  dry,  as  the  aroma 
then  is  gone  ;  nor  too  wet,  or  new,  as  they  are  more  difficult  to  smoke. 

Paper  cigars  (cigarillos)  are  made  with  picado  (chopped)  tobacco- 
leaves,  from  the  Habana  or  United  States,  and  called,  according  to  its 
sort,  superior,  suave,  or  entrefuertes,  and  sold  in  cajetillas,  already 
made.  Those  who  prefer  smoking  them  will  purchase  papel  de  Alcoy, 
and  avoid  spurious,  very  unwholesome  prepared  paper.  There  are  also 
pajillas,  or  cigarettes,  made  with  Guatemala  Indian  corn,  or  the  rice 
paper.  Filipinos  are  an  inferior  produce  and  Spanish  rape-  snuff  is  not 
worth  the  Paris  CivetCe. 


ARMS.  ciii 


Arms. 


Swords. — Spanish  steel  has  been  always  celebrated,  and  the  mines  that 
produce  now  the  finest  ore  were  originally  worked  by  the  Romans  and 
Goths.  The  best  swords  were  made  about  the  1 4th,  1 5th,  and  1 6th  centuries. 
The  Zaragoza,  Toledo,  and  Valencia  swordmakers,  espaderos,  were  the 
most  celebrated,  and  used  especial  marks,  such  as  el  perrilfo,  a  miniature 
dog,  placed  by  the  Toledan  Moor,  Julien  del  Rei,  upon  all  his  blades  ; 
the  moritto,  at  Zaragoza,  the  loba  (the  she-wolf),  etc.  Armourers  (armeros) 
formed  a  guild,  but  worked  separately,  and  concealed  from  each  other 
the  secrets  for  tempering,  etc,  which  they  employed  to  make  those  master- 
pieces so  remarkable  for  the  chiselling  and  damascene  ornament  introduced 
by  the  Moors.  The  principal  swordmakers  at  Toledo  were :  Nicolas 
Orduno,  Juan  Martinez,  Antonio  Ruiz,  Dionisio  Corrientes.  Those  of 
Zaragoza  were  also  held  in  great  repute.  A  sword  is  called  espada  (rtrala) ; 
the  blade  is  la  hoja ;  the  sheath,  la  vaina ;  the  handle,  puno  and  porno y 
sable,  the  modem  curved  cavalry  sword.  The  introduction  of  firearms 
dealt  the  first  blow  to  sword-manufacture  in  Spain,  and  those  now  made 
at  Toledo,  although  good  weapons  still,  are  no  longer  works  of  art.  On 
the  whole,  the  old  blades,  '  Toledo's  trusty,'  a  *  soldier's  dream,'  which 
Othello  '  kept  in  his  chamber,'  were  unequalled  save  in  the  East,  but  for 
form  and  design  they  were  inferior  to  the  Milanese  and  Florentines.  All 
the  celebrated  swords  of  heroes  had  names,  as  well  in  France  and  Italy 
as  in  Spain :  '  La  Durandal '  and  '  La  Colada,'  of  the  Cid,  etc  The  best 
examples  of  Spanish  swords  are  collected  in  the  Madrid  Armeria.  The 
Artillery  Museo,  the  Armouries  of  the  Dukea  de  Medinaceli,  Alba,  Fernan- 
Nunez,  Osuna,  are  all  very  remarkable,  as  much  for  the  intrinsic  value 
as  for  the  historical  traditions  attached  to  them.  That  formed  by  Cardinal 
Mendoza  at  Gaudalajara  was  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe ;  4000  men 
and  4000  horses  could  be  armed  with  its  contents.  Some  war-horse 
arneses  cost  5000  ducats. 

Daggers. — In  the  1 6th  and  1 7th  centuries  duels  took  place  with  the 
long  rapier  in  one  hand,  and  the  long  broquel,  or  dagger,  with  cazoleta 
hilt,  in  the  other.  The  combat  began  with  the  former,  and  the  thrusts 
were  parried  with  the  broquel,  which  served  especially  to  finish  the  fallen 
foe,  and  was  called  in  consequence  miserere,  the  French  coup  de  grace. 
The  broquel  was  subsequently  changed  for  the  Italian  poignard,  punal, 
and  became  the  favourite  weapon  of  the  lower  orders,  who  were  not 
allowed  the  use  of  rapiers.  La  navaja,  or  cuchillo,  often  as  long  as  a 
common  sword,  settles  at  once  all  differences  of  opinion,  blood  being 
thought  to  wipe  off  any  petty  rancour.  It  is  used  very  frequently,  and 
has  become  an  art  in  which  the  barateros  are  proficient.  A  baratero 
(from  barato,  cheap)  lives  by  his  knife.  He  frequents  gambling  circles, 
and  receives  some  coins  from  the  cowed- down  players  whom  he  has 
threatened  to  disturb  if  they  should  not  grant  his  boon.     This  is  called 


civ  GENERAL   INFORMATION. 

'  cobrar  el  barato/  to  get  change.  In  some  cases,  one  of  the  challenged 
parties  gets  up  and  refuses  to  pay;  upon  which  the  champion  fights. 
Death  often,  ensues,  as  the  stomach  is  aimed  at  Those  curious  to  learn 
more  particulars  may  consult '  Manual  del  Baratero,'  with  prints.  The 
best  specimens  of  knives  can  be  had  at  Madrid  and  Seville ;  they  are 
principally  manufactured  at  Albacete ;  they  have  bright  colours  on  the 
blade,  with  mottoes — a  muelle  or  catch ;  the  price  varies  from  6r.  to  30r. 

Firearms, — Spanish  fowling-pieces  now-a-days  are  manufactured  in 
very  small  quantities,  at  the  manufactories  of  Trubia  and  Eybar,  together 
with  indifferent  field-pieces.  Yet  the  poorest  peasant  has  a  retaco  of  all 
sizes  and  for  all  objects ;  from  the  blunderbuss,  trabuco,  to  the  escopela  de 
caza.  They  are  all  sportsmen  and  excellent  shots.  The  firearms  made 
in  Spain  in  the  reign  of  Philip  IV.  and  V.  were  excellent,  and  among 
the  finest  then  in  the  world ;  and  revolvers  were  more  frequently  made 
than  may  be  generally  believed.  The  Madrid  Armeria,  and  Artillery 
Museo,  contain  a  complete  collection  of  examples  of  the  arcabuceros  de 
Madrid,  pistolas  de  rueda.  The  best  armourer  of  the  present  day  in  Spain 
is  Sr.  Zuloaga  at  Madrid  (chief  factory  and  atelier  at  Eibar,  Guipiizcoa). 

The  best  works  to  consult  on  the  above  subjects  are : — an  extensive 
work  recently  published  in  England,  on  '  Arms  and  Armours/  by  Hewitt. 
'  Oatalogo  de  la  Real  Armeria ;'  Madrid,  latest  issue ;  very  accurate. 
An  important  French  work,  with  excellent  engravings  by  Sensi  and 
Jubinal ;  the  text  not  always  reliable  ;  Paris,  1838.  An  Essay  on  ancient 
Spanish  arms  in  Mohedano's  '  Historia  Literaria,'  3d  voL,  etc  The  Arab 
work  of  Mohammed-Ben-Ali,  El-Erani,  etc.  Details  also  may  be  found 
in  Parro's  '  Toledo  en  la  Mano,'  2d  vol.  p.  595,  etc.  General  Conde  de 
Cleonard's  work  on  the  History  of  Spanish  Arms, l  Historia  de  Armas  en 
Esparto,/  is  an  interesting  work  now  difficult  to  find. 

Coins. 

This  is  not  a  virgin  land  for  numismatics,  as  the  science  is  old  in  Spain, 
and  there  have  been  always  collectors.  Many  false  coins,  besides  the 
current  ones,  are  sold  to  the  unexperienced  traveller,  especially  on  the  sites 
of  celebrated  ruins.  The  collection  at  the  Biblioteca  Nacional,  Madrid, 
exceeds  150,000  in  number,  and  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  Europe  ; 
especially  as  illustrating  some  otherwise  obscure  facte  of  the  history  of 
Spain.  It  abounds  in  a  most  complete  and  admirably  classified  monetarios 
of  very  early  Spanish,  Roman,  Gothic,  and  Moorish  coins.  There  were 
upwards  of  a  hundred  cities  in  Roman-Spain  that  had  the  privilege  of  a 
mint  The  municipii  coins  are  not  very  often  met  with.  The  best 
places  to  make  purchases — but  caveat  emptor/ — are  Granada,  Seville, 
Valencia,  and  M^rida.  There  are  several  fine  private  collections,  but 
one  of  the  finest  that  was  ever  made  in  Spain — that  formed  by  the 


DUTIES — TARIFF. 


CV 


Swedish  Charge*  d*  Affaires,  Le  Chevalier  Lorichs — was  dispersed  at  his 
death. 

The  most  interesting  to  collect  are  the  Keltibcrian  coins,  the  coins  of 
the  Municipii  and  Colonise  immunes.  Roman  and  Moorish  silver  coins 
are  easily  obtained ;  not  so,  gold  ones.  Coppers,  often  interesting,  can 
be  picked  up  for  a  few  reals  at  tobacconists'. 

The  best  works  on  the  subject  are  : — 

'  Medallas  de  Esparto,'  by  Father  Henrique  Florez ;  3  vols,  folio.  Madrid, 
1757-73;  with  plates.  One  of  the  most  important  works  ever  published  on 
the  matter.  '  Medallas  de  Proclamaciones  of  Juras,'  by  Herrera,  1884. 
Delgado,  '  Monedas  Aut6nomas  de  Espafia ' ;  the  works  of  Zobel  y  Zangroniz 
on  Keltiberian  coins,  of  Codera  and  Stanley  Lane  Poole  on  Arabic ;  Heiss's 
great  work,  'Description  generate  des  Monnaies  antiques  de  l'Espagne,'  and 
*  Les  premiers  Ages  de  Metal  dans  le  Sud-est  de  l'Espagne,'  by  Henri  and  Louis 
Siret. 

Finances  and  Funds. 

The  Finances  of  Spain  have  always  been  the  stumbling-block  of  her 
progress  in  the  path  of  civilisation.  When  mistress  of  the  world,  she 
was  poor,  embarrassed,  the  slave  of  expediency.  She  has  had  great 
theoretical  financiers,  who  make  poems  out  of  budgets ;  and  '  Tart  de 
grouper  les  chiffres '  is  admirably  practised  here  ;  but  the  public  chest 
partakes  sadly  of  the  nature  of  Pandora's  box,  chiefly  through  dishonest 
local  assessment  and  imperfect  collection  of  the  Revenue.  Justice  is, 
however,  rarely  done  to  the  immense  improvement  that  has  been  estab- 
lished in  this  as  in  every  other  department  of  State  during  the  last  twelve 
or  fifteen  years.  The  National  Debt  has  been  consolidated,  and  now 
reaches  the  enormous  total  of  £283,045,771,  together  with  a  Govern- 
ment guarantee  of  a  Cuban  debt  of  £90,000,000,  and  a  variable  amount 
of  floating  indebtedness  upon  extraordinary  expenditure.  The  annual 
charge  for  service  of  debt  is  about  £14,000,000.  Revenue  and  ex- 
penditure now  as  nearly  as  possible  balance  at,  in  round  figures, 
£43,000,000. 


Duties — Tariff. 

The  following  ordinary  tourist's  articles  pay  duty  upon  entering 
Spain  : — 


Brandy ',  etc.,  1  peseta  per  litre. 

Books  and  other  printed  matter,  10  pesetas 
per  100  kilos.    (If  in  Spanish  50  pesetas.) 

Boots  and  all  articles  of  attire  if  unused, 
according  to  the  material,  with  50  %  added. 

Carriages,  from  31a  to  1000  pesetas. 

Cigars  and  Tobacco,  prohibited. 

Guns,  5  pesetas  per  kilo.  Cartridges,  60 
cents. 


Horses,  from  135  to  180  pesetas,  according  to 
kind  and  size. 

Maps,  plans,  etc.,  5  reals  per  kilo ;  pictures, 
1  peseta  each. 

Perfumery,  a  pesetas  per  kilo. 

Saddlery,  etc.,  3.75  per  kilo. 

Scientific  Instruments,  about  3  pesetas 
each. 


cvi  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

Everything  is  admitted  free  into  England  except  cigars,  tobacco, 
liqueurs,  spirits,  plate,  tea,  and  wine. 

Lace  and  silk  stuffs,  jewellery  and  goldsmith's  work,  porcelain  and 
arms  are  charged  rather  heavily  in  the  French  custom  houses  if 
found. 

The  "  Arancel  de  Aduanas n  is  a  useful  little  companion  in  Spain. 
In  England  the  "Returns  of  the  Rates  of  Import  Duties  levied  in 
European  countries,  etc.,"  price  la  6d.,  should  be  consulted  for  all 
details. 

N.B. — The  above  duties  are  liable  to  somewhat  arbitrary  infliction 
and  variation.  As  a  matter  of  fact  few  articles  save  cigars  and  ladies' 
new  attire  are  looked  for  with  any  strictness.  Courtesy  and  friendliness 
will  smooth  away  almost  all  custom-house  difficulties. 


Money — Measures  and  Weighta 

Monet. — The  monetary  unit  is  the  peseta,  a  coin  composed  of  y^ths  of 
silver  and  y^th  of  copper.  Its  nominal  value  is,  as  nearly  as*  possible,  a 
franc,  or  9|d.  in  English  money ;  but  the  rates  of  exchange  vary  con- 
stantly, and  for  many  years  past  a  minimum  of  33  pesetas  for  the  £ 
has  been  obtainable.  Accounts  are  made  out  in  pesetas  and  centimos  as 
a  rule  (1  c.  =  100th  part  of  a  peseta),  but  the  older  method  of  reckoning 
in  reals  (4  reals  to  the  peseta)  and  dollars  (1  duro  =  5  pesetas)  is  still 
often  met  with,  especially  in  shops.  Gold  is  rare,  the  usual  media 
being  Bank  of  Spain  notes  for  25,  50,  100,  500,  and  1000  pesetas, 
dollars,  or  5 -peseta  pieces,  2 -peseta  and  ^-peseta  pieces,  and  coppers  of 
10  c.  and  5  c — vulgarly  called  perro  grande  and  perro  chico,  or  perrita. 
No  paper  money  save  the  notes  of  the  Banco  de  Espaiia  should  be 
accepted  under  any  circumstances,  and  careful  attention  should  be 
directed  to  the  various  coins  (of  Peru,  Chili,  Mexico,  the  Philippine 
Islands,  etc.)  which  are  not  current.  It  is  in  no  way  impolite — it  is 
only  usual — to  examine,  and  even  ring,  the  money  given  in  exchange, 
with  a  view  to  ascertaining  if  it  be  good  or  bad,  and  a  little  common  sense 
and  insistence  renders  loss  by  bad  money  unnecessary. 


MEASURES. 


CV11 


Measures. 

The  French  metrical  decimal  system  has  been  introduced  by  decree  of 
July  13,  1849,  and  is  the  only  official  one  ;  but  its  use  has  not  as  yet 
become  quite  general,  and  the  vara,  legua,  cuartillo,  etc.,  are  still  pre- 
ferred to  the  metro,  kilometro,  litro,  etc 

Old  Spanish  measures  still  in  use. — The  vara  is  the  base  ;  it  consists 
of  3  pies  (feet),  each  of  12  pulgados  (inches),  each  of  12  lineas,  and  is 
equal  to  836  millimetres,  or  about  2782  English  feet 

English  Spanish 

ioo  yards  make  .         .  109  varas  and  30  pulgadas 

12  feet       ,,  13  pies 

12  inches    „  .         .  13  pulgadas 


Comparative  Measure  of  the  French  Metre  and  English  Yard. 


French 
I  millimetre  is  equal  to 
1  centimetre 
1  decimetre 
l  metre 


»» 
»» 
t» 


1  decametre  (10  m.) 
1  kilometre 
1  myriametre 


7* 
»» 


English 
•03937  inches 

"3937 
3*937 
39*37*         »»      and  1  vara  7  pulgadas,  74 

cents,  of  a  linea. 
I  -9884  poles 
4*971    furlongs 


if 
»> 
»» 


6*214    miles 
A  metre  is  therefore  about  3J  inches  longer  than  an  English  yard,  and  a 
myriametre  about  6£  miles. 


Reduction  op  Varas 

into  Metres  and  Yards. 

Varas. 

Mitres.           Yards. 

Varas. 

Metres.             Yards. 

I 

2      . 

0,835  exact     *9i 
1,670  about  2 

9 

10 

7,515  about      8 
8,35o     „         8| 

3    • 

2,505      „     3 

20 

16,700     „       17 

4    • 
5 

3,340     „     3 
4,175      >,     4$ 

5o 

IOO 

4i,75o     „       42 
83,500     „       84 

6  . 

7  • 

8  . 

5>OI°     „     54 
5,845     ,,     6 
6,680     „     7 

500 

IOOO 

4i7,5oo     „     420 
835,000     ,,     840 

1  metre  =    1  vara,  7  pulgadas,  74  cents,  of  a  linea. 

1  millimetre  r=  50  cents,  of  a  linea,  or  half-linea. 
1  centimetre. 

The  following  is  a  rule  to  reduce  all  ancient  measures  into  modern — 
that  is,  varas,  leguas,  etc.,  into  metres,  kilometres— viz.  one  Spanish 
league  is  5  kil.  555  metres  ;  therefore,  to  ascertain  how  many  kilometres, 
multiply  the  5  kiL  555  metres  by  the  number  of  leagues  you  wish  to 
reduce  ;  then  separate  the  three  last  numbers  on  the  right  by  a  comma, 
and  the  remaining  total  forms  the  kilometres,  whilst  the  three  numbers 
to  the  right  constitute  the  metres. 


cvm 


MEASURES. 


Example :  How  many  kilometres  are  there  in  12  leagues? 

kil.    m. 

5  555  multiplied  by 
12  leagues,  produce 

II    no 

55  55 

66  66o ;  viz.  66  kil.  66o  metres. 

To  reduce  metres  to  varas,  the  same  rule  stands  good.  Multiply  1 
vara  7  pulg.  74  cents,  of  a  linea  by  the  number  of  metres  desired.  The 
varas  differ  considerably  according  to  the  provinces,  and  are  still  in 
use : — 


ioo  canas  of  Catalufb  equal  185  Castilian  varas. 
too  varas  of  Valencia  „  108  ditto  (or  106) 
100       „      Aragon        „      91 1        ditto 


xoo 
100 
100 


Navarre      ,,      948         ditto 
Balearic  Isles    185  ditto 

Portuguese,,     136  ditto 


100  English  Yards  equal  109  varas,  30  puL  etc. 

The  toesa 

1  estado,  or  braza 

1  codo 

1  pal  mo 

1  paso  geome'trico 

1  cordel 


»» 

6  feet 

J> 

3  varas 

)> 
»» 
>» 
» 

£  vara 

9  ptilgadas 

5  pie's 

5  pasos  geome't 

The  Spanish  league  (legua),  of  20  to  a  degree,  is  of  20,000  geomet- 
rical feet  (pasos),  equal  to  the  nautical  league  of  3  geographical  miles  =  5 
kilometres  and  555  metres,  about  3*45  English  m.  The  old  Spanish 
league  of  174  to  the  degree  =  nearly  4  English  m.,  often  familiarly 
called  leguas  largos  by  the  guides  and  all  caminantes.  A  statute  English 
mile  =  1760  yds.  =  5280  ft.  =  69  to  a  degree. 

Superficial  Measures. — The  official  one  is  the  French  hectare,  equal  to 
10,000  square  metres,  2*471  acres,  or,  roughly,  24  acres,  or  thereabouts. 

The  fanega  is  the  usual  Spanish  land  measure.  It  is  thus  com- 
posed : — 


i  fanega9  is  celemines 

I        .,         =4  cuartillos 

z        „        =12  estadales 


it 


=  16  varas  cuadradas 

i     „  „         « 0,0069,873,710  ares 

(French) 
(9  esL'ulales  make  i  are  and  o.c6a). 

Reduction  of  Superficial  Fanegas  to  Hectares. 


Fanegas. 

Hectares. 

Fanegas. 

Hectares. 

1        •      .      •      • 

&       .      •      .      • 

5      ■     •     •     • 

0*6440 
1*2879 
3-2198 

IO      .      .      . 
50     . 
IOO      . 

6-4396 
32*1978 
64-3956 

N. B.— The  fanega  of  Castilla  is  different  from  that  of  the  other  provinces.  The  yugada 
(literally  yoked,  or  yoking),  the  land  that  two  bullocks  can  plough  in  a  day.  The  journal  of  the 
South  of  France,  the  almud,  etc.,  varies  considerably.  An  aranzada  is  as  much  as  a  pair  of  oxen 
can  plough  in  a  day. 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


C1X 


The  square  centimetre  is  equal  to  "155  square  inches,  or  rather  less 
than  Jth  of  a  square  inch. 

I  metre  carre=  1*196  sq.  yards,  or  10,000  sq.  centimetres. 

A  Spanish  sq.  foot  =7746  decimetres  carres. 

The  vara  cuadrada  =      6  pies  cuadradas. 

1  pie  cuadrado  =  144  pulgadas  cuadradas. 

1  pulgada  cuadrada  =  144  lineas  cuadradas. 


Measures  of  Capacity,  weight. 


1  quintal  =  4  arrobas 


=  35  libras 

1     ,,     =16  onzas 

1     „     =  x6  adarmes 

1      „        =3  tomines 

1      ,,      =12  granos. 


1 

Arrobas. 

Kil.  centig.  mil. 

Arrobas. 

K.U.  centig.  mil. 

1     I  arroba  . 

12        ,,         ... 

!       3         >!         ... 

i 

11,502,325 
23,005 

34,507 

5  arrobas     .     . 
10      „          .     . 

5°      ,, 

57,512,000 
115,023 

575.116 

00 

£  libras. 


Approximately,  1  kilog.  is  somewhat  more  than  2  libras;  46  kilog.,  1 
libras  (pounds) ;  the  gramme,  15-4340  English  grains;  1  cwt.,  about  1 10 J  libr 

I  tonelada  (tons)   =20  quintales,  or  920  kilog.  186  centig. 
5        „  =4,601  kilogs. 

10       „  =  9,202      „ 

100       „  =92,119      „ 

1  kilog.  is  equal  to  2*2055  lbs.   English;   100  kilog.  to  1*97  cwt.  ; 
kilog.  (or  tonneau),  to  197  cwt. 


1000 


Grain,  or  Dry  Measures. 

I  cahiz  a  12  fancgas 

1       .,      =12  celemines  (or  almudes) 
l         „        =4  cuartillos 


t» 


,f 


1  cuartillo 
I  cahiz  . 
I  fanega  . 


=  4  ochavos 

1       ,, 

1. 156  litre 
666     „ 

55*  „ 


8  ochavilk* 


ex 


MEASURES. 


The  hectolitre  =  I  fanega,  9  celemines,  2  cuartillos,  486  mil.  of  cuartillo 
1  litre  =  865 -thousandths  of  a  cuartillo 

1  fanega  —  about  14  bushel 

5  fanegas  =  about  I  quarter 


1  fanega 

5 
10 


»» 


0.5550  hectols. 

2.7751 

5.5501 


»» 


5°  fanegas 
100 
1000 


>» 


»> 


27-75°5  hectol 
55.5010 
55S.0100 


46  pies  cubicos  =0*995 -096  m^*  CUD« 
50        „  =1  metre  cube  and  081*626  miL  cub. 

The  cubic  metre         =  35*317  cubic  feet  (English) 
The  cubic  centimetre  =  o -06100  cubic  inches 
I  decalitre  is  about  an  English  peek,  and  2£  hectolitres  about  I  English  quart 


Liquid  Measures. 


1  moyo  (seldom  used)  =310  cantaras  (arrobas  of  34  libras  each) 

1        „         =4  cuartillos  (seldom  used) 
1        ..      =2  azumbres 

1        „      =  4  cuartillos 


» 


4  copas 


The  arroba  or  cantara  =  3*55  English  gallons,  or  16  litres,  13i*0 
centilitres  ;  1  litre  approximately  somewhat  more  than  1  cuartilo — viz. 
1  cuartillo,  3  copas,  92  centesimos  of  a  copa. 

The  litre  =  $ths  of  an  English  gallon,  or  2*11  wine  pints,  or  *97  of 
an  English  quart.  The  arrobe  is  marked  @.  In  oil  measures :  the 
arroba  contains  25  libras,  and  each  4  panillas.  1  arrobe  =12  litres, 
56*o  centil. 

1  litre  =  1  libra,  3  panillas,  96  centesimos  of  a  panilla. 

Oil: — 1  arrobe 12*563  litres. 


2 

5 
10 

100 


»> 


j> 


»> 


it 


25*126 

62-8I5 

I25*630 

I256*300 


»» 


i  bota  de  vino  or  pipe  =  about  no  to  115  gallons.     It  will  bottle  about  5a  dosen. 
s  marco  =  8  onzas  (equal  to  the  light  marc,  each  of  8  dracmas) 
1     „     =■  8  ochavas,  or  dracmas 
1        „       =2  adarmes 

1      „        =     tomines 

1      „       ■=  1a  gnus. 
2  tomines  =  1.198  grammes  ;  1  gramme  =  15-4340  English  grains. 
1  marco    =  o.  2300465  kilogrammes. 
5  marcos  =  x.  150233  , 

x  kilate     =  4  granos  ;  1  grano  =  8  partes  de  grano  =  51.4  milligrammes 
5  kilates  =  1.027  grammes. 


GENERAL  INFORMATION.  CXi 

For  Medicine  i — 

i  libra  medicinal = za  onzas 

i  —  8  dracmas,  or  ochavas 

z        „      =  3  escrupulos 

i         „        s=a4  granos. 
i  libra  medicinal  o>345  kilog. 

5  n  ...  4        z.735     »i 

io  ,,  ....        3-45*      »» 

The  gramme  is  =  15.44  English  grains, 
aj  French  grains  are  equal  to  a  English  grains. 
About  6  codos  cubicos  =  z  cubic  mitre. 

1  Umelada  de  arqueo    =  1.518  cubic  metres.    The  lastre  »  a  toneladas. 
1  tonelada  (ships)  =  20  cwt,  or  1  ton. 


^ 


GUIDE  TO  SPAIN 


GUIDE    TO    SPAIN. 


♦- 


alcalA  (DE  henAres) 

(BIRTHPLACE  OF  CERVANTES). 


Province  of  Madiid. — Population, 
16,000,  diocese  of  Toledo. 

Routes. — 1st,  From  Madrid,  by  rail, 
21}  miles,  1J  hr.  by  mail  train,  about 
1  hr.  by  dir.  tr.  ;  fares,  1st  cl.,  P.  3.95 ; 
2d  cL,  P.  3.05.  It  is  on  the  direct  R. 
line  from  Zaragoza  to  Madrid,  its  last 
largest  town.  The  best  plan  is  to  visit  it 
whilst  at  Madrid  and  return  the  same  day, 
to  avoid  discomfort  at  the  posada  (inn). 
Besides,  there  is  but  little  hereto  interest 
the  general  tourist.  It  is  about  six 
leagues  from  Madrid  by  the  carretera 
(high  road). 

Hotel. — Fonda  Hidalgo. 

General  Description.— AlcalA  stands 
in  a  plain,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  He- 
nares,  which  winds  its  way,  hiding,  as 
if  for  shame,  its  muddy  thin  sheet  of 
water  behind  some  stately  elms.  Seve- 
ral lofty  sandy  cerros  screen  it  from  the 
N.  winds,  but  it  is  nevertheless  a  very 
cold  and  wind-blown  place  in  winter. 
The  former  town,  or  rather  village,  that 
was  grouped  around  a  castle  built  by 
the  Moors,  whence  it  received  its  actual 
name—Al-Kalat,  the  Castle — was  al- 
ready known  in  the  time  of  the  Romans, 
who  called  it  Complutum,  and,  accord- 
ing to  Pliny,  was  a  stipendiary  city, 
subjected  to  the  Jurid.  Conventus  of 
Caesar -Augusta  (Zaragoza) :  several 
vases  and  coins  that  turn  up  now  and 


then  would  seem  to  confirm  this  state* 
ment.  Guadalajara,  nevertheless,  is, 
or  rather  was  formerly,  the  rival  of  Al- 
cala, and  disputed  with  it  the  right  of 
being  Pliny's  Complutum.  The  citadel 
stood  on  the  site  now  called  Alcala  la 
Vieja.  About  1118,  the  first  archbishop 
of  Toledo,  Don  Bernardo,  built  a  rival 
fortress  on  the  hill  now  called  Mai  Ve- 
cino,  and  the  Moors,  who  possessed  the 
city,  had  to  surrender.  This  prelate 
was  the  real  conqueror  of  Alcala,  which, 
in  reward,  was  given  to  him  with  all 
the  land  around  by  King  Alonso  VI., 
and  confirmed  to  his  successor  Raimun- 
do.  This  last,  a  truly-styled  prince  of 
the  Church,  thus  became  the  absolute 
sovereign  of  this  petty  principality, 
which,  however,  never  ceased  to  be, 
ecclesiastically,  dependent  on  the  see  of 
Toledo.  Among  many  other  curious 
illustrations  of  those  times  which  we 
read  in  the  Fueros  or  charter  that  he 
gave  to  his  people  (they  are  found  in  a 
fine  codex  of  the  13th  century  in  the 
municipal  archives  of  that  city),  is  the 
following  law  :  '  The  man  who  will  pull 
another  by  the  beard  is  to  be  fined  four 
maravedis,  and  have  his  own  cut  away  ; 
and  if  he  should  have  none,  let  him 
have  an  inch  deep  of  flesh  cut  into  his 
chin.'  Strange  to  say,  great  tolerance 
was  shown  by  these  archbishops  towards 


B 


& 


Alcala  (de  henares). 


the  Jews,  and  a  perfect  equality  between 
them  and  Christians  established  before 
the  law,  'peche  como  pechan  por  ve- 
zino  cristiano  a  cristiano ; '  but  this 
spirit  of  moderation  did  not  extend  to 
the  hated  infidels,  the  Moors,  who  were 
treated  always  as  the  conquered  people, 
and  dealt  with  accordingly.  The  see  of 
Complutum  is  one  of  the  earliest  in 
Spain,  and  its  two  celebrated  martyrs, 
Santos  Justo  y  Pastor,  lived  in  the  time 
of  Dacian.  Those  who  are  curious  in 
martyrology  and  modern  miracles  may 
consult  on  this  subject,  '  La  Vida,  Mar- 
tirio,  etc.,  de  los  Ninos  SS.  Justo  y 
Pastor,'  by  A.  Morales.  Alcala,  1568, 
4to  (rare).  It  contains,  besides,  some 
very  curious  information  relative  to  the 
antiquities  of  Alcala. 

Several  kings  have  often  resided  at 
Alcala,  where,  moreover,  the  Cortes  of 
the  kingdom  were  held  in  former  times 
and  on  various  occasions ;  but  it  has 
been  chiefly  one  of  the  battle-fields  of 
the  all-grasping,  all-powerful  theocracy 
of  Spain,  and  celebrated  for  Arch.  Teno- 
rio's  efforts  to  obtain  the  regency  during 
Enrique  III.'s  minority  ;  for  Cerezuela's 
partizan  warfare  on  behalf  of  Don  Al- 
varo  de  Luna,  and  Carrillo's  intrigues 
in  favour  of  La  Beltraneja  against  the 
interests  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  in 
the  arrangement  of  whose  marriage  he 
had  played  so  principal  a  part.  Their 
daughter,  Catherine  of  Aragon,  whom 
Shakspeare  makes  Henry  VIII.  define 
as  'the  queen  of  earthly  queens,'  was 
born  at  Alcala,  and  so  was  the  same 
Catholic  king's  grandson  Ferdinand, 
subsequently  Emperor  of  Germany, 
whose  birth  caused  his  mother  Juana 
the  loss  of  her  reason ;  but  Alcala's 
greatest  glory  must  for  ever  be  to  have 
given  birth  to  Cervantes.  The  prospe- 
rity of  Alcala,  inaugurated  by  the 
Church,  attained  its  acme*  under  the 
wise  protection  of  Card.  Ximenes,  more 
generally  known  by  Spaniards  as  Cisne- 


ros,  who  studied  here,  and  founded  the 
celebrated  university  in  1510,  endow- 
ing it  generously,  and  filling  its  colleges 
with  some  of  the  most  learned  scholars 
of  his  age.     When,  in  obedience  to  the 
spirit  of  centralisation — a  bad  importa- 
tion from  France — the  university  was 
removed  to  Madrid  in  1836,  Alcala  fell, 
never  to  rise  again,  and  is  now  but  a 
shadow  of  its  former  self,  a  backward, 
solitary,  abandoned  city,  without  re 
taining  any  quaintness  or  originality 
or  even  environs,  to  compensate  for  all 
its  other  losses.    Alcala  was  indeed  pros- 
perous as  the  seat  of  learning,  when 
its  halls  were  thronged  by  eleven  thou- 
sand students,  when  Cervantes,  study- 
ing here  before  he  removed  to  Madrid 
and  Salamanca,  called  it  the  'famoso 
Compluto'  ('Galatea,'  vol.  L  p.   121), 
and  it  counted  nineteen  colleges.   Then, 
on  the  banks  of  the  river,  'las  riberas 
del  famoso  HenareV  (Cervantes,  'Gala- 
tea,' vol.  L  p.  66),  the  estudiantina,  or 
Burschenschaft,  held  merry  assemblies. 
These  were  the  Spanish  estudiantes,  who 
studied  principally  for  the  Church,  and 
belonged  to  the  middle  and  lower  classes. 
Their  want  of  funds  and  continual  re- 
sort to  expedient,  mingled  with  gaiety 
and  laziness,  has  given  them  a  peculiar 
character,  style,  and  reputation.     Dur- 
ing vacations  and  carnival,  they  went, 
and  still  continue  to  go,  in  bands  about 
the  streets  with  their  usual  and  now 
antiquated  cloaks  in  rags,  and  torn  two- 
corner  hats,  and  singing  with  a  guitar 
under  the  windows  beg  for  pence  and 
smiles  from  regas. 

Un  estudiante  tunante 
Se  puso  a  pintar  la  luna, 
Y  de  hambre  que  tenia 
Pintd  un  plato  de  aceitunas. 
Anda,  vida  mia,  abre  la  ventana, 
Mira  que*  lucida  llevo  la  sotana. 

Sights.— Colegio  de  San  Ildefonso 
(Capilla  del  Cardinal  Cisneros),  Archi- 
episcopal  Palace,  La  Colegiata  (cathe- 
dral), Church  of  Santa  Maria. 


4 


alcala  (de  henares). 


Colegio  de  San  Ildefonso.  —  This 
coiegio  mayor  was  the  seat  of  the  for- 
mer university.  It  has  a  grand  effect 
when  seen  from  a  distance,  but  on  closer 
examination  becomes  clumsy  and  mass- 
ive. It  was  magnificently  built  and 
endowed  by  Ximenes.  The  few  remain- 
ing halls,  patios,  and  galleries  are  deso- 
late and  lonely,  but  still  bear  vestiges 
of  their  former  grandeur.  Of  the  Para- 
ninfo,  where  degrees  were  conferred, 
and  which  was  richly  ornamented  in 
the  16th  century,  there  exists  little  now 
except  the  ceilings  and  the  ornamented 
galleries  which  run  round. 

The  principal  curiosity  here  is  the 
chapel  built  by  Gil  de  Ontanon  in  a 
semi-Moorish  Gothic  style  with  great 
magnificence  and  taste.  The  tomb  of 
the  founder  should  be  noted.  It  is  of 
marble,  very  elaborately  and  delicately 
chiselled,  the  work  of  Domenico  of 
Florence.  One  of  the  most  remarkable 
men  the  world  has  ever  produced — 
remarkable  alike  for  integrity,  indomi- 
table perseverance,  self-denial,  devotion 
to  his  religion,  and  the  extraordinary 
versatility  of  his  talents — Ximenes, 
Francis  de  Cisneros,  was  throughout 
his  long  life  pre-eminently  one  of  the 
people.  He  was  born  of  humble  stock 
at  Torrelaguna,  in  1437,  educated  at 
Alcala  and  Borne,  and  became  success- 
ively Vicar-General  of  the  great  Men- 
doza,  Confessor  of  Isabella  la  Catdlica, 
Archbishop  of  Toledo,  Cardinal,  and 
Regent  of  Spain.  The  primacy  he 
steadily  refused  until  his  acceptance  of 
it  was  commanded  by  Pope  Innocent 
VIII.,  and  to  the  end  he  remained  in 
all  his  private  ways  the  simple  and 
stern  Franciscan  monk.  Some  of  his 
enterprises  were  naturally  dictated  and 
stained  by  the  uncharitable  and  lawless 
spirit  of  the  age,  but,  upon  the  whole, 
his  de  facto  government  of  the  country 
— especially  during  the  troublous  days 
succeeding  the  death  of  Isabella — was 


characterised  by  consummate  wisdom 
and  enlightenment.  The  usual  fate  of 
all  great  men  finally  overtook  him,  and 
he  died,  Nov.  6, 1517,  in  semi-disgrace, 
broken-hearted  at  the  ingratitude  of 
Charles  V.  His  latter  years  were  spent 
at  Alcala,  in  the  production,  at  a  cost 
of  80,000  ducats,  of  his  famous  Com- 
plutensian  Polyglot  Bible  (Complutuin, 
07  Connuvium,  the  Roman  name  of  the 
city),  printed  here  in  6  vols,  folio  in 
1517,  but  not  published  until  1522. 
Over  this  his  most  cherished  work 
Cisneros  spared  neither  pains  nor  ex- 
pense in  collecting  authentic  MSS. 
and  bringing  together  the  finest  avail- 
able scholars  of  the  day.  It  contains, 
besides  the  Hebrew  text,  the  Septuagint 
Greek,  the  Chaldee  (each  with  a  literal 
Latin  version)  and  the  Vulgate ;  and, 
while  no  longer  held  in  great  esteem 
for  its  own  sake,  is  entitled  to  the 
greatest  honour  as  the  first  work  of  its 
kind,  and  an  almost  superhuman  labour 
of  love  and  energy. 

The  place  has  lost  most  of  its  literary 
treasures,  but  one  may  still  find  here 
some  curious  books  and  MSS. — among 
others  the  celebrated  Alphonsine  Tables, 
drawn  up  by  order  of  Alfonso  X.  The 
work  is  written  in  Spanish,  and  is  one 
of  the  earliest  of  Western  science  written 
in  a  modern  language ;  the  introduction 
is  the  catalogue  of  the  fixed  stars, 
celebrated  as  'Las  Tablas  Alfonsinas.' 
This  work  was  a  great  stop  towards 
the  diffusion  of  knowledge  in  the  13th 
century.  These  books  contain,  besides 
methods,  etc.,  and  the  tables,  eloquent 
and  poetical  explanations.  The  follow- 
ing passage  will  show  the  style  and 
quaint  manner  of  the  king.  Speaking 
of  Ursa  Major,  he  says,  *  Some  astron- 
omers have  taken  it  for  a  wain  with  its 
pole  ;  others  say  it  has  the  form  of  an 
animal,  which  might  as  well  be  a  lion, 
a  wolf,  or  a  dog,  as  a  male  or  a  female 
bear.    Here,  then,  are  heavenly  animals 


Y 


alcala  (de  hen/res). 


inhabiting  that  part  of  the  sky  where 
this  constellation  is  to  be  found,  and 
recognised  by  ancient  astronomers  be- 
cause they  saw  four  stars  forming  a 
square,  and  three  in  a  right  line.  They 
must  have  been  endowed  with  a  better 
eyesight  than  ours,  and  the  sky  must 
have  been  very  clear.  Since  they  say 
it  is  a  she-bear,  let  it  be  one ;  they  were 
lucky  in  being  able  to  distinguish  it.' 
The  ancient  astronomers  did  not  err  in 
their  estimate  of  the  Alphonsine  Tables. 
Regiomontanus  says,  '  Beware  lest  you 
trust  too  much  to  blind  calculation  and 
Alphonsine  dreams. '  Tycho  Brahe  says 
that  the  400,000  ducats  expended  upon 
the  tables  would  have  been  better  laid 
out  in  actual  observation  of  the  heavens. 
In  point  of  truth,  Alfonso  had  little  or 
nothing  to  do  with  the  tables  that  bear 
his  name.  (See  also  about  these  tables, 
Ticknor's  *  History  of  Spanish  Litera- 
ture/ voL  i.  p.  35,  note.) 

Archiepiscopal  Palace. — Observe  the 
Becond  patio  and  staircase  built  by  the 
primates  Fonseca  and  Tavera,  both  of 
them  of  good  plateresque ;  also  the 
Berruguete-like  windows  of  the  first 
patio  and  garden  facade.  The  archives 
now  housed  here — Archivo  Histrfrico — 
should  be  visited  for  the  sake  of  their 
literary  curiosities,  and,  especially,  the 
series  of  documents  relating  to  the 
Great  Inquisition. 

La  Colegiata,  or  San  Justo  y  Pastor. 
— This  church  is  the  oldest  parish  in 
Alcala,  and  was  raised  to  a  colegiata 
in  1479.  The  edifice  was  considerably 
enlarged  in  1497  and  1509  under  Pedro 
Gumiel.  It  was  styled  Magistral  by 
Pope  Leo  X.,  when  Cisneros  caused  all 
its  prebendaries  to  be  doctors  in  divinity. 
It  is  situated  in  a  plazuela,  and  presents 
a  plain  facade  with  an  indifferent  stone 
tower.     Its  three  naves  are  deficient  in 


beauty  and  proportions  ;  the  reja  which 
leads  into  the  presbytery  was  elabor- 
ately worked  by  Juan  Frances.  .The 
principal  retablo  in  the  presbytery  is 
barroque,  and  all  around  is  modernised, 
churrigueresque,  paint,  and  bad  taste  ; 
under  it  is  a  crypt,  where  the  remains 
of  the  martyr  boys,  Justo  y  Pastor, 
are  kept  with  great  veneration.  The 
paintings  of  Carducho,  etc.,  are  very 
indifferent. 

The  Church  of  Santa  Maria  should  be  vi- 
sited by  all  readers  of  Don  Quixote,  as  it  was 
here  that  Miguel  de  Cervantes  Saaverda  was 
christened.  We  read  in  the  registry  of  births 
of  this  church,  in  the  book  which  begins  in 
*533  and  ends  1550 :  '  On  Sunday,  9th  Oct. 
of  the  year  of  our  Lord  1547,  was  baptized 
Miguel,  son  of  Rodrigo  de  Cervantes,  and  of 
his  wife  Dona  Leoner.  Juan  Pardo  was  god- 
father, and  he  was  baptized  by  the  Bachiller 
Serrano,  curate  of  Our  Lady.  The  witnesses 
being  the  sacristan  (sexton),  Baltasar  Vazquez, 
and  I  who  baptized  him.  Signed,  Bachiller 
Serrano.'  In  this  same  book  are  also  the  '  par- 
tidas  de  bautismo '  of  his  brother  Andres,  bap- 
tized 1542,  and  his  sisters,  Andrea,  1544,  and 
Luisa,  1546. 

The  Mineral  Baths  of  Locckcs  (sulphates  of 
soda  and  magnesia)  are  situated  11  kil.  from 
the  Alcala  station.  Dominican  convent,  palace 
and  tomb  of  the  Duke  of  Olivares,  Philip  IV. 's 
minister.  Diligence  from  Alcala  during  the 
bathing  season,  June  15th  to  Sept.  15th. 

Books  of  Reference— x.  *  Vida,  Martirio,  etc., 
de  los  gloriosos  Ninos  Martires  SS.  Justo  y 
Pastor,'  by  Amb.  de  Morales  ;  Alcala,  Angulo, 
1568 — scarce,  and  containing  curious  informa- 
tion on  the  antiquities  of  the  town. 

2.  '  Descripcion  de  la  Universidad  de  Alcala, 
by  Vergara  (MS.) 

3.  '  Seminario  de  Nobles,  Taller  de  Vener- 
ables,'  etc  ;  '  El  Colegio  Mayor  de  San  Pedro 
y  San  Pablo,'  with  a  life  of  Card.  Cisneros,  by 
Alcolea  (Madrid.)  Martin,  1777) ;  another 
'  Life '  by  Albar  Gomez,  and  an  incomplete  one 
by  Vergara. 

For  the  history  of  Cardinal  Ximenes,  '  Vida 
de  Ximenes,'  etc.,  by  Eugenio  Robles,  4to, 
Toledo,  1604 ;  Prescott's  '  Ferdinand  and  Isa- 
bella '  or  Hefele's  '  Der  Cardinal  Ximenes  und 
die  Kirchlichen  Zustande  Spaniens,'  etc,  Tu- 
bingen, 1851. 


MDHTOTOTOIEDOjUBAimX^^ 


r.JtartJu>  Io"u»h,  Bebv£ 


VoIblishel^V  A.&  CBlack.  London 


ROUTES  TO  ALICANTE. 


1st.  From  Madrid.  By  railway  in 
14£  hours  by  mail  train,  about  17  hours 
by  omnibus  train  ;  distance,  282  miles 
or  455  kiL  ;  two  trains  a  day ;  fares, 
1st  cl.,  Pes.  52.35  ;  2d  cl.,  Pes.  40.60  ; 
3d  cL,  Pes.  24.90.  Station  at  Madrid, 
Puerta  de  Atocha ;  same  road  as  Madrid 
to  Valencia  as  far  as  La  Encina  (see 
Valencia).  At  La  Encina  a  fair  buffet. 
The  road  from  La  Encina  is  not  pictur- 
esque, and  the  villages  uninteresting. 
At  Villena  (12,000  inhabitants,  once 
the  appanage  of  the  celebrated  Mary  of 
that  name)  there  is  on  a  hill  an  old 
historical  castle  of  no  artistic  merit; 
the  slopes  of  the  hills  around  are  clothed 
with  vines,  and  the 'great  annual  fair, 
held  Sept  29  to  Oct  5,  is  of  consider- 
able importance,  the  sales  amounting 
then  to  about  £120,000.  A  road  here 
leads  to  Alcoy,  where  the  best  cigarette- 
paper  in  Spain  is  manufactured,  with 
woollens,  coarse  and  inferior.  Three 
miles  from  Sax  (see  fine  ruined  castle) 
the  Vinalapo  is  crossed,  and  a  tunnel 
begins  of  530  yards  (485  metres)  long  ; 
2  kil.  after  Monovar  the  Vinalap6  is 
crossed  again  on  a  bridge  which  is 
considered  the  most  important  work  on 
that  line.  Novelda  (pop.  9500)  is  one 
of  the  most  picturesque  valleys  in  this 
part  of  Spain.  This,  with  the  country 
around  Elche,  and  the  whole  valley  of 
the  Seguras,  has  been  compared  to  the 
delta  of  the  Nile,  and  its  natural  pro- 
ductions are  the  orange,  the  palm, 
Indian  corn,  fruits  of  all  sorts,  aniseed, 
oil,  wine,  etc  Three  miles  from  it  is 
an  almost  ignored  sulphureous  spring. 


Diligence   here  to    Elche,   etc.     (See 
Murcia.) 

2d.  From  Valencia.  A.  By  rail. 
Take  tickets  to  Alicante.  At  La 
Encina  carriages  are  sometimes  changed, 
and  travellers  have  to  wait  for  train 
from  Madrid  to  Alicante.  Only  two 
trains  (the  mail  and  slow)  leave  daily 
from  Valencia  to  La  Encina.  Time, 
4  hrs.  by  mail,  and  about  5  by  slow 
train;  fares,  1st  cl.,  pes.  13.35c; 
2d  cl.,  pes.  10.10c. ;  3d  cl.,  pes.  5.90c. 
Distance,  113  kils.  N.B.— Hours  of 
trains  should  be  carefully  combined,  so 
as  to  avoid  delay  at  La  Encina,  and 
even  passing  the  night  there ;  but  if  the 
latter  be  the  case,  the  French  people 
who  keep  the  Buffet  supply  some  very 
decent  rooms,  and  the  fare  is  tolerable. 
The  inn  close  by  is  very  wretched. 
From  La  Encina  to  Alicante,  time  about 
3  hrs.  by  either  train  ;  distance,  97  kil. ; 
fares,  1st  cl.,  pes.  9 ;  2d  cl.,  pes.  7. 
(For  details  of  road  from  Valencia  to  La 
Encina,  see  Valencia  B.)  B. — By  sea, 
12  hrs.  by  steamers  of  the  Compania 
General  Trasatlantica,  and  others 
occasionally,  which  are  advertised  in 
papers  of  Valencia  and  Alicante,  pes. 
27.50,  pes.  20,  and  pes.  10. 

3d.  From  Murcia  (see  Murda\  by 
rail,  through  Elche  and  Orihuela  ;  two 
trains  per  day  ;  time,  3J  hours  ;  fares, 
1st  cl.,  pes.  8.65 ;  2d  cl.,  pes.  6.55 ; 
3d  cl.,  pes.  4.30. 

Also  from  Barcelona,  Malaga,  etc., 
by  steam.  (For  particulars,  see  adver- 
tisements in  daily  papers  and  railway 
guides.) 


6 


ALICANTE. 

Capital  of  the  province  of  Alicante,  seaport.     Pop.  41  000. 


Railway  Stations. —  Two:  the 
Estacion  de  Madrid,  for  Madrid,  La 
Encina,  etc.  ;  and  Estacion  de  Murcia. 
The  hotel  omnibuses  meet  all  trains. 
Travellers  with  tickets  of  the  M.Z.A. 
Co.  for  Murcia  have  to  make  the  long 
detour  by  Chinchilla. 

At  the  pier,  on  landing  from  or  to 
steamer,  2r.  per  passenger,  and  2r. 
ordinary-sized  packages,  a  tariff.  Agree 
nevertheless  before  taking  a  boat. 

Hotels. — De  Bossio,  Calle  del  Duque 
de  Zaragoza.  Good ;  but  deteriorat- 
ing ;  moderate  charges.  De  Roma  y 
de  la  Marina,  and  Hotel  Iborra,  both 
with  sea  views  and  fairly  good.  Pens, 
from  8  pes.  At  all  hotels  the  price 
of  pension  includes  everything  save 
specialities — carriages,  etc.  The  table 
d'hdte  wines  are  sufficiently  good  for 
ordinary  drinking.  Reduction  of  prices 
for  a  long  stay. 

Casino. — Calle  San  Fernando :  French 
and  English  papers;  admission  readily 
obtained  upon  a  good  introduction. 

Baths. — Banos  de  Bonanza,  6r. ;  sea- 
bathing during  summer. 

Club  de  Regatas,  with  well-appointed 
floating  boating  -  house.  Club  de 
Escrima  (Fencing  Club),  Calle  San 
Fernando. 

Post -Office. — Plaza  de  Isabel  II. 
Letters  take  four  days  to  England. 

Telegraph  Office. — Calle  Gravina. 

Theatres. — El  Principal,  Plaza  del 
Teatro,  and  Teatro  -  Circo,  Plaza  de 
Balmes. 

Cafes. — Suizo,  Comercio,  Espafiol, 
Calle  San  Fernando. 

Bull  Ring  in  N.  of  town.  Bull-fights 
in  summer  only. 


N.B. — Letters  and  parcels  can  often 
bo  despatched  conveniently  by  certain 
lines  of  steamers :  see  advertisements, 
and  inquire  of  agents. 

Climate. — Alicante  would  justly  de- 
serve to  be  ranked  among  the  southern 
cities  better  suited  to  invalids.  Its 
latitude  is  38°  18'  30"  Paris,  and  38°  20' 
41"  N.  longitude,  0°  30'  W.  Greenwich. 
It  is  sheltered  from  the  N.  and  W. 
winds  by  a  high  ridge  of  mountains,  of 
which  the  highest  is  El  Mongo.  The 
air  is  warmer  than  at  Valencia,  but  more 
dry.  There  is  an  occasionally  marked, 
but  not  injurious,  depression  in  the 
thermometer  about  nightfall,  and  that 
very  dryness  is  somewhat  tempered  by 
the  cool  sea-breeze,  to  which  the  city, 
by  its  position,  is  favourably  exposed. 
It  is,  nevertheless,  exposed  to  all  the 
violence  of  the  S.  and  S.W.  winds. 
There  is  a  certain  analogy  between  this 
climate  and  that  of  Nice,  which  is  all 
in  favour  of  Alicante.  According  to 
local  and  foreign  doctors,  this  climate 
is  very  well  suited  to  invalids  sinking 
under  a  debilitated  organism.  Scrofu- 
lous and  lymphatic  persons,  conva- 
lescents, and  all  those  predisposed  to 
consumption,  but  without  any  symp- 
toms, will  derive  great  benefit  from  this 
balmy  air. 

Meteorological  observations  made  at  the 
Observatory  at  Alicante. 

Aveiage  yearly  barometrical  height  761.mil.  o 
Average  annual  temperature  .        .     17.5  cent 
Temperature,  maxima  (July  xo)     .    37.3    „ 
„  minima  (February  7)     0.6    „ 

Number  of  rainy  days  in  the  year .    24 
Quantity  of  rain  fallen    .  .    77  mil.  10 


ALICANTE. 


Meteorological  Observations  made  at  the  Institute  of 

Alicante  (an  average  Year). 


Temperature  of  Air. 

Direction  of  Winds. 

1 

Quan- 

Months. 

"8 

Aver- 

Maxi- 

Mini- 

w 

tity. 

Oscil. 

N. 

NE. 

K. 

SB. 

s. 

sw. 

w. 

NW. 

5* 

age. 

mum. 

mum. 

4 

2 

3 

4 

1 

(5 

December 

10.8 

25-4 

2-4 

27.8 

•  • 

•  • 

17 

2 

6.xo 

January     . 
February  . 

12.8 

25.8 

2.6 

23.2 

4 

6 

■  • 

•  • 

•  • 

8 

3 

IO 

4 

3683 

8.9 

23-9 

3.2 

27.1 

9 

4 

3 

1 

12 

4 

142.75 

March  .     . 

12.8 

27.4 

3-8 

3X.2 

3 

7 

t  • 

4 

4 

X 

2 

ZO 

2 

11.94 

April     .     . 
May      .     . 

151 

28.2 

2.Z 

26. 1 

7 

10 

•  * 

2 

4 

4 

1 

8 

9 

118.88 

19.6 

34-3 

5-6 

28.7 

•  « 

5 

5 

10 

4 

2 

•  • 

5 

3 

11.69 

June      .     . 

July     •    • 

23.1 

36.2 

12.2 

24.0 

•  • 

6 

3 

14 

2 

a 

•  • 

4 

1 

x.ar 

24.7 

37-8 

12.6 

25.2 

•  • 

4 

7 

13 

4 

a 

■  • 

1 

a 

43-69 

August 

25.0 

38.4 

I4.4 

24.0 

•  • 

12 

6 

XI 

•  • 

X 

•  • 

1 

1 

1.27 

September 

21.6 

33-a 

7.2 

26.0 

3 

6 

4 

8 

2 

X 

X 

5 

3 

16.00 

October 

18.7 

29,7 

7.8 

21.9 

3 

9 

IX 

3 

X 

3 

•  • 

1 

3 

55- »» 

November 

16.6 

29.4 

4-4 

25.0 

a 
35 

5 
76 

2 
40 

X 

X 

9 
40 

5 
14 

5 

1 

r.78 

Totals 
Average  annual  atmospheric  pressure 

66 

22 

79 

760.08 

,,         ,,        temperature   . 

17-5 

Number  of  rainy  days 

# 

35 

Maximum  temperature,  August  29 

38.4 

Quantity  fallen 

• 

•    447.32 

Minimum  temperature,  March  10  . 

3-8 

Meteorological  Observations  made  at  the  Institute  op 

Alicante  (a  dry  Year). 


Temperature  of  Air. 

Direction  of  Winds. 

1 

Quan- 

Months. 

* 

Aver- 

Maxi- 

Mini- 

Oscil. 

N. 

NB. 

E. 

SB. 

S. 

sw. 

w. 

NW. 

10 

tity. 

age. 

mum. 

mum. 

2 

2 

•   • 

•  • 

1 

II 

4 

II 

5 

December 

13.0 

25.3 

1.1 

24.2 

M-74 

January     . 
February  . 

10.6 

28.3 

1.1 

29.4 

5 

4 

I 

z 

1 

5 

4 

IO 

4 

X4-49 

12.3 

23-9 

1.1 

22.8 

2 

4 

4 

1 

3 

6 

2 

6 

X 

6.86 

March  .     . 

14.6 

27.9 

o-3 

27.6 

6 

4 

4 

3 

7 

1 

6 

3 

7.12 

April     .     . 
May      .     . 

15-9 

3*- * 

4.0 

27.x 

3 

7 

7 

4 

2 

3 

1 

3 

3 

14-74 

18.4 

33-7 

4-7 

29.0 

•  • 

12 

7 

6 

a 

2 

1 

X 

4 

42.67 

June     .     . 

22.8 

34-4 

"•5 

22.9 

•  • 

5 

4 

10 

8 

2 

•  • 

1 

1 

2.79 

July      .     . 

351 

37-1 

14.0 

23.x 

•  • 

4 

9 

10 

3 

a 

•  • 

3 

1   •• 

•  • 

August 

26.3 

37-9 

150 

2a.  9 

•  ■ 

7 

4 

14 

6 

September 

23-9 

34-8 

"•3 

235 

2 

6 

5 

6 

6 

2 

•  • 

3 

1 

2.79 

October           21:8 

33-1 

8.9 

24.2 

•  ■ 

12 

6 

x 

2 

6 

1 

3 

5 

26.42 

November    |  x6.6 

26.7 

5-i 

21.6 

a 
22 

5 
72 

6 
53 

•  • 

57 

a 
39 

4 
5o 

a 
16 

9 
56 

3 

27.94 

Totals 
Average  pressure  of  atmosphere 

760 

.10 

Average  temperature,  annual 

18 

•4 

Number  of 

rami 

f  day 

rs 

30 

I      Maximum  temperature,  August  9  . 

37 

•9 

Quantity  fa 

.Hen 

.    x6t 

X56 

Minimum  t< 

:mperat 

ure,  January  21 

1 

.1 

- 

8 


ALICANTE. 


'The  grand  objection  to  Nice  is  its 
dryness  and  the  exciting  and  irritating 
nature  of  its  atmosphere.' — ('On  the 
Climate  of  Nice,'  by  W.  Farr,  M.D., 
p.  10.)  But  if,  in  some  diseases,  these 
are  found  to  aggravate  the  malady,  in 
others,  of  an  opposite  tendency,  they  are 
productive  of  much  good.  The  death- 
rate  is  about  1  in  32,  varying  consider- 
ably with  the  seasons. 

Elche  (12  m.  from  Alicante,  see  p. 
10)  has  not  been  as  yet  studied  as  a 
medical  station.  It  might,  nevertheless, 
be  considered  superior  to  Alicante  in 
many  respects.     The  sky  is  heavenly, 
the  air  pure  and  genial,  and  the  forests 
of  palms,  orange-trees,  pomegranates, 
and  olives,  are  sufficient  to  indicate  the 
temperature  in  winter.     It  is  very  dry, 
but  not  as  much,  perhaps,  as  Alicante, 
owing  to  constant  and  abundant  irriga- 
tion, the  Vinalapo"  river,  and  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Pantanoor  lake,  situated 
3  miles  N.     There  is  also  a  cool  shade 
under  the  palms ;  but  it  must  not  be 
forgotten  that  it  is  exposed  to  the  influ- 
ence of  the  E.  and  N.  winds,  which 
prevail  especially  during  the  winter, 
although  at   rare   intervals.      In  the 
summer,  intermittent  fevers  are  not  un- 
frequent  (a  consequence  of  emanations 
from  the  irrigated  huerta)  which  more 
particularly  seize  the  labourers,  who 
stand  all  day  in  the  water  under  a 
scorching  sun.    The  houses  are  not  com- 
fortable, certainly,  but  arm-chairs,  car- 
pets, and  doors  and  windows  closing 
hermetically,  are  a  useless  luxury,  nay, 
a  nuisance,  in  these  Oriental  climates. 
Living  is  very  cheap,  fruit  and  vege- 
tables are  sold  for  a  song,  and  its  prox- 
imity to  Alicante  renders  supplies  easily 
obtainable.     There  is,  we  do  not  deny, 
a  total  lack  of  society,  amusements,  and 
comforts,  the  absence  of  which  is  often 
felt  by  invalids ;  but  the  real  advantages 
of  climate,  combined  with  very  great 
cheapness,  are  objects  not  to  be  despised, 


and  must  compensate  for  others.  Doc- 
tors may  safely  send  here  all  invalid*, 
suffering  from  catarrh,  rheumatism,  and 
consumption,  accompanied  by  abundant 
expectoration,  in  the  first  stages  of  the 
malady,  and  in  all  cases  where  the  irri- 
tability of  the  patient  (especially  in  lym- 
phatic temperaments)  cannot  endure 
the  more  exciting  air  of  the  sea-side 
medical  stations. 

General  Description. — Alicante  is 
situated  on  the  sea-side,  extending  along 
and  around  the  spacious  open  bay,  and 
at  the  foot  of  the  lofty,  bleak,  chalky 
hill,  crowned  by  an  old  and  now  much 
ruined  castle.  Its  houses,  low,  gay, 
whitewashed,  look  picturesque  from  the 
steamer  as  one  enters  the  port,  and  the 
background  is  formed  by  a  striking  range 
of  mountains.  The  environs  are  bare, 
and  the  soil  salinous.  A  few  palms  and 
fig-trees  add  to  the  Oriental  appearance 
of  the  place.  It  is,  on  the  whole,  a  very 
backward,  uninteresting  city,  with  little 
or  no  society.  There  is  a  pretty  good 
theatre,  a  plaza  de  toros,  a  fine  market- 
place, opposite  to  Fonda  del  Vapor,  and 
the  town-hall  has  some  sort  of  an  ap- 
pearance, but  without  any  determined 
style  or  definable  effect.  The  tobacco- 
manufactory  employs  some  4000  women, 
many  of  whom  are  perfect  types  of  the 
semi-Moorish  Alicantina  beauty.  The 
Paseo  de  los  Martires,  planted  with  palm 
trees  and  facing  the  port,  is  the  fashion- 
able promenade.  Others  are  the  Paseo 
de  Mendez  Nunez,  del  Doctor  Gadea, 
de  Gamiz  —  the  latter  frequented  in 
summer,  owing  to  its  situation  in  front 
of  the  sea-bathing  establishment ;  while 
outside  the  town  is  the  Paseo  del  Duque 
de  Victoria  (formerly  Campoamor,  or 
Capuchinos).  Public  gardens  are  those 
of  Isabel  II.,  Plaza  Ramiro,  and  Plaza 
de  San  Francisco.  In  what  is  styled 
the  'Huerta  de  Alicante,'  a  district 
irrigated  from  the  Pantano  de  Tibi 
(Moorish  reservoir),    there   are   many 


ALICANTE 


country  houses  and  some  pretty  gardens, 
where  families  go  to  pass  a  few  weeks 
during  the  summer,  the  distances  being 
more  or  less  an  hour's  drive  from  the 
town. 

The  Port  is  spacious,  situated  between 
Cabo  de  la  Huerta  on  the  N.E.  and 
Cabo  de  Sta.  Pola  on  the  S.,  distant 
from  each  other  S.W.  and  N.E.  about  10 
m.  It  is  secure,  and  though  large  ships 
moor  N.  and  S.,  distant  from  £  m.  to 
1  m.  from  shore  (in  from  four  to  eight 
fathoms  water),  they  are  never  driven 
from  theirmoorings,  however  much  they 
are  exposed  to  all  winds  from  E.N.E.  to 
S.  by  W.,  because  the  holding-ground  is 
first-rate.  The  trade  is  not  very  active, 
wine-growers  especially  having  lately 
been  unable  to  realise  their  crops  at 
remunerative  prices,  and  the  rates  of 
exchange  telling  seriously  against  the 
import  trade.  The  chief  exports  are 
wine,  liquorice  root,  aniseed,  almonds, 
esparto  goods  and  lead.  The  exporta- 
tion of  barilla  formerly  amounted  to 
100,000  cwt.,  but  has  now  entirely 
ceased  from  its  having  been  superseded 
by  artificial  soda.  The  imports  are, 
sugar,  coffee,  cotton  and  linen  stuffs, 
coals,  railway  material,  dried  cod-fish, 
sugar,  jute,  stones,  timber,  and  petro- 
leum (of  which  there  are  two  large  re- 
fineries). The  annual  value  of  these  is 
something  like  £300,000,  the  port  being 
visited  by  an  annual  nett  British  ton- 
nage of  20,000  tons.  Both  exports  and 
imports  have  seriously  fallen  off  during 
the  last  few  years.  Alicante  was  for- 
merly a  great  smuggling  centre,  and 
the  contrabandistas — the  free-traders 
of  all  times  and  all  climes — were  very 
much  looked  up  to  and  sympathised 
with.  Education  is  at  a  low  ebb  even 
for  Spain,  but  the  tide  is  now  turning, 
and  the  Church  here,  as  elsewhere, 
is  awakened  to  a  more  active  life 
and  educational  work.  The  Valencian 
dialect,  the  old  langue  d'oc,  is  still 


chiefly  spoken  by  the  lower  and  many 
of  the  middle  classes.  Agriculture  is 
very  backward,  and  although  the  farmer 
has  certainly  to  contend  against  drought, 
which  often  lasts  for  seven  and  nine 
months  in  the  year,  his  ignorance  and  in- 
dolence prevent  his  alleviating  this  con- 
dition by  making  morepantanos,  canals, 
wells,  and  by  planting  trees  —  those 
hated  enemies  of  the  Spanish  peasant. 

Sights. — Church  of  San  Nicolas  de 
Bari — Churches  of  Santa  Maria,  Sta. 
Clara,  Sta.  Faz— The  Castle— Elche. 

Church  of  San  Nicolas  de  Bari,  the 
titular  saint,  'el  patron,'  of  Alicante, 
was  built  in  1616,  in  the  Herrera  stvle 
(Grseco-Roman).  It  is  of  very  good  pro- 
portions, well  conceived  and  executed, 
but  not  completed,  and  ornamented 
with  very  bad  taste.  The  church  of 
Sta.  Maria  is  very  indifferent ;  that  of 
Sta.  Clara  was  originally  founded  to 
receive  the  sacred  sndario,  '  one  of  the 
three  napkins  or  kerchiefs  with  which 
the  Veronica  wiped  our  Saviour's  face 
on  his  way  to  the  Calvary.'  It  was 
brought  from  Rome  in  the  15th  cen- 
tury, and  its  authenticity  is  undoubted 
by  the  Alicantinos,  who  hold  it  in  great 
veneration.  The  sacred  'Reliquia  de 
la  serenfsima  Faz '  is  now  in  the  Church 
of  Santa  Faz,  about  half  an  hour's  drive 
from  the  town. 

The  pictures  of  the  Marquis  del 
Angolfa,  formerly  well  worthy  of  a 
visit,  are  now  dispersed,  owing  to  the 
death  of  the  Marquis.  Their  value 
was,  however,  greatly  overrated.  They 
consisted  of  about  1000  pictures  of 
Spanish  and  Dutch  schools.  The 
Italian  paintings  were  nearly  all  of 
them  copies ;  but  there  were  some 
good  Snyders,  and  a  good  copy 
of  Rubens's  'Deposition  from  the 
Cross,*  at  Antwerp.  The  best  paint- 
ings of  the  Spanish  school  were  the 
'Good  Shepherd,'  by  Orrente,  a  soi- 
disattt    Murillo,    and    a    fine    Virgin 


IU 


ALICANTE. 


and     Sleeping     Saviour     by    Alonso  I 
Cano. 

Castle, — To  see  it,  apply  with  card 
to  the  Gobernador.  The  Castillo  de 
Santa  Barbara  commands  the  town  and 
bay ;  its  situation  is  good,  but  the  con- 
tinued  dilapidations  to  which  it  has 
been  subject  have  rendered  it  almost 
useless  for  defence,  and  of  no  interest 
to  the  military  tourist ;  it  is  composed 
of  four  emplazamientos  (plateaux),  the 
highest  of  which  overlooks  the  city, 
and  is  strong.  It  is  about  400  ft.  high. 
The  castle  of  San  Fernando  crowns  on 
the  N.  side  the  cerro  (height)  of  Tosal, 
and  defends  that  position  which  com- 
mands the  fortress  ;  the  Isla  Plana,  on 
the  S.  of  the  city,  and  distant  3J 
leagues  from  Cabo  de  Santa  Pola,  is 
1180  varas  long  by  500  wide,  and  de- 
fended by  the  Torre  de  San  Jose. 

Antiquities. — There  are  no  antiqui- 
ties collected  at  Alicante  that  we  know 
of,  although  several  persons  possess 
coins,  medals,  etc.  Alicante,  never  re- 
markable in  history,  is  the  ancients' 
Illice,  erroneously  ascribed  to  Elche, 
and  has  sometimes  also  been  called 
Alona.  The  Lucentum  which  some  au- 
thors mention  as  the  former  name  of 
Alicante,  was  not  this  city,  but  one 
situated  at  Tusal  de  Manises,  close  to 
Alicante,  where  many  ruins,  coins,  etc., 
have  been  found. 

Balneario  de  Busot. — This  pictur- 
esque watering-place  (warm  sulphur 
springs)  lies  9  miles  from  the  city, 
upon  the  Cabezo"  de  Oro,  and  at  a  height 
of  some  1600  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
situation  is  very  fine,  with  a  surround- 
ing of  pine-clad  hills,  the  Cabezo"  itself, 
the  Garroferet,  the  Peiia  Kocha,  etc. 
There  is  a  daily  coach  (correo)  from 
Alicante ;  and  every  convenience  may 
be  found  in  the  well-appointed  Estab- 
letimiento,  the  Hotel  Miramar  (fine 
views  over  the  sea),  and  the  small 
separate  villas  on  hire. 


Directory. 

Consuls. — Of  England. — Jasper  W. 
Cumraing,  Esq.,  Vice-Consul.  United 
States. — A.  W.  Leach,  Esq.,  Consul ; 
John  Leach,  Esq.,  Vice-Consul.  Aus- 
tria-Hungary.—  F.  Raymund,  Vice- 
Consul.  Belgium. — E.  Carey,  Consul. 
Italy. — F.  Raymund,  Consul.  Norway 
and  Sweden. — H.  Prytz,  Vice-Consul. 
Russia.  —  A.  Faes,  Consul.  Holland. 
— A.  Salvetti,  Consul.  Germany.  — 
J.  Guardiola,  Consul. 

Bankers. — Cumming  Brothers  (suc- 
cessors of  Jasper  White  and  Co.) ; 
agents  for  several  English  and  Ameri- 
can banks.  Succursal  of  the  Bank  of 
Spain. 

Diligence  Offices. — For  Alcoy,  Villena, 
Crevillente,  Elche,  Torrevieja,  etc., 
Calles  Mendez  Nunez  and  Gravina. 

Excursion  to  Elche. 

A  visit  to  this  town  of  most 
Oriental  character,  situated  amid  a 
forest  of  palms,  should  by  no  means  be 
omitted  ;  indeed,  it  is  worth  a  journey 
to  Alicante.  The  distance  is  4  leagues 
(12  miles)  from  the  town,  and  2  leagues 
(6  miles)  from  the  sea.  The  drive  is 
charming ;  for  though  the  country  is 
flat  and  never  green,  there  is  a  com- 
pensating novelty  and  picturesqueness 
about  the  ruddy  soil,  the  clumps  of 
stately  palms  and  fig-trees  that  shade 
the  doors  and  avenues  to  Tangerine- 
looking  houses.  The  old  diligence 
services  are  now  superseded  by  the 
direct  railway  between  Alicante  and 
Murcia,  whereby  a  long  day  may  be 
spent  at  Elche — the  second  station 
out — at  a  cost  of  5  pesetas,  1st  class  ; 
3.50c,  2d  class;  and  2.50c,  3d. 
For  those  who  prefer  to  drive,  how- 
ever, there  are  also  small  omnibuses 
or  carriages,  that  may  be  hired  for  a 
conventional  price;  time,  from  2J  to 


1 


ALICANTE — EXCURSIONS. 


11 


3i  hours,  according  to  state  of  the  road, 
which  is  not  good. 

Elche,  some  say,  was  originally  the 
ancient  Illice,  but  according  to  others, 
and  with  more  likelihood,  it  was  merely 
an  Arab  village,  whose  name  in  Arabic 
would  mean  tornadizo  (whirlwind,  and 
also  turncoat,  deserter),  (see  '  Tesoro  de 
la  Lengua  Castellan  a,'  by  Dr.  Sebast 
de  Covarrubias,  etc.      It  is    situated 
close  to  the  ravine  formed  by  the  Vina- 
lapo,  which  runs  through  it,  and  which 
called    into    existence    this   charming 
oasis  in  the  desert,  as  the  Arabs  used 
its  waters  with  their  usual  ingenuity 
for  the  irrigation  of  the  huertos  and 
palms.    The  works  to  insure  this  irri- 
gation to  the  plains  around  Elche  are 
a  pantano  (marsh),   situated  about  3 
miles  N.  of  the  town,  and  placed  across 
a  gorge  of  the  Vinalapo*  water  ;    the 
wall  that  shuts  up  this  gorge  is  68  ft. 
3  in.  high,  34  ft.  thick  at  its  base,  and 
26  ft.  at  the  summit,  thus  forming  a 
terrace  of  228J  miles  long,   from  one 
hill  to  another.     The  town  is  long  and 
clean,  the  houses  whitewashed,  of  one 
or  two  storeys  ;  the  roofs  flat,  with  few 
openings  on  the  streets,  and  most  with 
a  patio  or  open  court  in  the  interior. 
The  costume  of  the  people,  their  fea- 
tures and  attitudes,  the  brilliancy  of 
the  atmosphere,  the  dolce  far  niente, 
the  lofty  stately  palms,  which,  like  so 
many  jets  of  verdure,  spring  up  above 
the  roofs  between  the  edifices,  are  all 
Oriental.      The  only  good  inn  is  the 
Fonda  de  la  Confianza,  where  decent 
beds  and  very  cheap  living  are  to  be 
obtained,  coupled  with  civility.    The 
population  is  about  24,000. 

Sights. — There  is  little  to  see  in  the 
town  itself.  The  Church  of  Sta.  Maria 
has  a  very  fine  portico  ;  the  interior  is 
well  proportioned  and  not  over-orna- 
mented. The  tabernacle  is  made  of 
precious  marbles,  with  an  effigy  of  the 
Virgin   of  the  Assumption,  which  is 


held  in  great  veneration.  It  is  often 
dressed  in  beautiful  rich  mantos,  has 
several  fine  jewels,  and  is  even  a  landed 
proprietor,  for  the  finest  palms  are  seen 
in  her  orchards,  called  '  Huertos  de  la 
Virgen,'  over  the  entrance  of  which  is 
her  crown  and  monogram.  The  pro- 
duce goes  to  pay  for  the  dresses  and 
candles  ;  and  the  priests  and  sextons, 
who  take  care  of  the  image,  have  mass 
said,  and  celebrate  funciones  on  her 
special  festivals,  etc.  Do  not  omit 
ascending  the  belfry  (companario) ;  the 
height  is  not  great,  though  the  steps 
are  much  worn  and  slippery.  The 
view  is  very  pleasing.  On  the  one  side 
is  seen,  in  the  distance,  the  lagoon, 
or  albufera  of  Elche,  which  is  smaller 
than  that  of  Valencia,  but  equally  well 
stored  with  fish  and  game  ;  on  the 
other  are  the  Huertos  de  la  Virgen  and 
palm  grounds,  the  tawny  barren  plains 
all  round,  and  below  the  many  hundred 
terraces,  each  a  perfect  picture.  From 
this  is  also  seen  the  Calandura,  now  a 
prison,  once  an  alcazar,  whose  tower  is 
crowned  by  two  bronze  figures  larger 
than  life,  representing  a  man  and  a 
child,  which,  by  hidden  combinations 
with  the  clock,  are  made  to  strike  the 
hours  and  the  quarters. 

Palm  Trees. — Now  proceed  to  visit 
the  gardens  close  by  ;  the  date-tree 
(Phoenix  daetylifera,  Linn.)  is  called 
here  palmera,  and  the  fruit  ddtil.  To 
prosper,  they  require  this  sandy  soil, 
well  watered,  and  the  warm  genial 
atmosphere  ;  they  grow  very  well,  too, 
near  the  sea,  provided  it  be  about  the 
same  latitude,  and  are  an  importation 
probably  from  that  portion  of  Barbary 
where  they  abound  most,  and  which  is 
therefore  called  Biledulgerid.  In  Hol- 
land's '  Plinie,'  b.  xiii  c.  4,  it  is  said 
*  Date-trees  love  a  light  and  sandie 
ground,  and  specially  (for  the  most 
part)  if  it  stand  much  upon  a  veine  of 
nitre    besides.'      The    Arabs  sow  the 


12 


ALICANTE — EXCURSIONS. 


kernel  about  the  end  of  March,  but 
they  and  the  Spaniards  prefer  multi- 
plying them  from  the  shoots  taken 
from  the  roots,  or  just  under  the  leaves; 
they  are  sheltered  from  the  sun,  and 
watered  often  until  they  have  taken 
root.  This  mode  has  the  great  advan- 
tage of  obtaining  female  plants  (which 
are  the  only  ones  that  yield  fruit),  as  a 
few  males  are  sufficient  to  fecundate  a 
whole  forest.  When,  about  April  and 
May,  the  male  flowers  are  blooming, 
the  labourers  cut  these  off,  and  shake 
the  dust  (pollen  or  farina)  over  the 
females,  which  are  thus  impregnated. 
This  artificial  fecundation,  which  is  now 
being  experimented  upon  in  France,  to 
extend  it  to  corn,  etc,  is  not  a  new 
discovery,  and  Theophrastus  mentions 
it  in  his  *  History  of  Plants,'  while 
Pliny  leaves  little  or  no  doubt  about 
it.  This  would  show  that  the  ancients 
were  cognisant  of  the  existence  of  sexes 
in  plants  long  before  Linnaeus  and 
others. 

The  best  dates  are  the  yellowish- 
coloured  ones.  They  ripen  about  No- 
vember, when  they  hang  in  rich  golden 
clusters  all  round  the  summit.  It  is 
curious  to  watch  the  dexterous  hor- 
Ulanos  (gardeners),  when  they  gather 
the  fruit,  reaching  the  top  of  the 
branchless  trunk  by  means  of  a  rope, 
which  they  pass  loosely  round  their 
waists  and  the  trunk,  resting  on  it  all 
their  body  in  a  horizontal  position, 
while  their  bare  feet,  pressing  the 
tree,  tighten  the  rope,  and  thus  leave 
their  hands  free.  The  produce  is  abun- 
dant, averaging  4  to  8  arrobas  yearly 
(though  some  exceed  15  and  20),  which 
are  sold  from  8r.  to  40r.  each.  The 
trunk  is  often  used  for  light  timber, 
and  is  very  hard,  firm,  and  almost  incor- 
ruptible.    There  is  scarcely  a  part  of 


the  tree  that  has  not  some  use,  although 
the  Arabs  derive  greater  utility  from 
them  than  the  Spaniards.  The  male 
leaves  or  palms  on  the  summit  are  tied 
together  from  April  to  June,  and 
blanched,  as  gardeners  say;  that  is, 
by  this  continued  compression,  they 
lose,  so  to  speak,  the  circulation  of 
their  sap  and  become  whitish.  They 
are  then  cut,  and  sold  separately  on 
Palm  Sunday  —  some  twisted  into 
shapes  of  crowns,  with  ribbons,  etc.— 
and  when  blessed  by  the  priest  are 
hung  up  at  the  balconies  and  over  the 
doors,  and  taken  about  on  Palm  Sun- 
day processions. 

Pilgrims,  formerly,  as  is  known,  were 
holy  travellers,  who  visited  one  parti- 
cular shrine  and  then  returned  home, 
but  the  palmer  made  it  his  sole  pro- 
fession to  visit  several  shrines,  and 
lived  on  charity  ;  and  as  Jerusalem  was 
one  of  them,  they  used,  once  there,  to 
make  a  palm  staff  and  go  with  it  thence 
about  the  world. 

A  new  branch  of  the  trade  has  lately 
sprung  up  in  the  shipping  of  these 
whitish  or  yellow  palms  to  London,  for 
the  decoration  of  Roman  and  Anglican 
churches.  A  certain  proportion  of  the 
defective  leaves,  too,  are  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  inferior  cigars  and 
cigarette  paper,  in  place  of  maize. 
There  are  several  palm  plantations 
worth  visiting ;  and  the  young  trees, 
of  3  to  5  years  old,  can  be  bought  from 
the  nurseries  at  a  cost  of  about  3  pes., 
and  shipped  at  Alicante  for  a  trifle. 

Cotton  is  grown  in  some  small  quan- 
tity, also  vines  and  pomegranates.  The 
trade  in  esparto  grass,  formerly  a  feature 
of  this  district,  has  seriously  fallen 
away.  Wine,  lead,  fruit,  raisins,  saffron 
and  licorice  root,  are  other  important 
Alicante  exports. 


_j 


13 


ALMADEN 


Province  of  Ciudad  Beat,  Diocese 
of  Toledo—  7900  inhab. 

Routes,  Conv.— 1.  From  Madrid, 
by  the  Madrid  and  Badajoz  line  ;  two 
trains  a  day.  Book  throughout ;  time, 
about  12  hours.  Fares,  1st  cl.,  Pes. 
31.20;  2d  cl.,  Pes. 23.40;  3d  cl.,  Pes.  15.45. 
A  slow  and  uncomfortable  journey, 
passing  by  Algodor  and  Ciudad  Real. 

2.  From  Valencia,  Alicante  and 
Murcia,  vid  Alcazar,  Manzanares  and 
Ciudad  Real ;  two  trains  per  day.  A 
cross-country  and  slow  journey,  but 
may  be  taken  en  route  for  Lisbon. 

3.  From  Cordoba,  by  rail  through 
Almorchon,  one  train  per  day  in  about 
9  hra.  ;  or  riding — roads  not  very  good, 
and  accommodation  by  the  way  bad. 

Route:  Cordova  to  Almaden,  riding, 
18  leagues,  3  days. 

Leagues 
Cordova  to  Villarta  .        .  .6 

Villanueva  del  Duque  .  5 

Viso  de  los  Pedroches  .  2 

Santa  Eufemia  .3 

Almaden  ....  3 

18 

The  ride  is  over  a  wild  country,  in- 
teresting alike  to  botanist  and  miner- 
alogist. Sleep  1st  night  at  Villarta ; 
2d  night  sleep  at  Viso  de  los  Pedroches. 
The  first  day's  ride  is  through  the 
sierras  and  pine-forests.  At  Viso  there 
is  abundant  mica-slate,  followed  by 
granite.  There  is  a  bridle-road  from 
Almaden  to  Seville,  by  Fuente  de  Can- 
tos, Aracena,  and  Rio  Tinto ;  distance 
about  50  leagues. 

Inn.— The  Fonda  de  Leopoldo  (in- 
different). Get,  before  you  leave  for 
Almaden,  letters  of  introduction  to  the 
superintendents  of  the  mines,  and  lodge 
in  some  private  house.  The  village 
is  perfectly  uninteresting  ;  a  good  hos- 


pital and  several  schools,  mining  and! 
others. 

Quicksilver  Mines. — The  quicksil- 
ver mines  of  Almaden  are  considered 
to  be  the  oldest  known  in  Europe,  as 
affording  most  curious  matter  of  in- 
formation to  science,  and,  what  is 
more,  as  the  richest  in  the  world. 
They  are  deemed  inexhaustible,  and 
are  a  source  of  great  revenue  to  the 
State,  to  which  they  belong.  The 
principal  vein  or  flow  actually  worked 
is  about  25  ft.  deep,  and  is  found  amid 
a  soil  composed  of  rocks  of  quartz  and 
strata  of  schist,  virgin  quicksilver  being 
also  found  in  pyrites  and  hornstein. 
A  depth  of  815  metres  has  been 
reached.  The  ore  yields,  on  an  aver- 
age, 10  per  cent  quicksilver.  The 
annual  produce  is  about  44,000 
frascoes  (about  1,500,000  kilos),  ex- 
ceeding by  30  per  cent  the  produce 
of  the  great  Californian  mines.  The 
quicksilver  is  nearly  all  consigned  to 
Messrs.  Rothschild  in  London.  The 
mines  employ  about  3500  hands.  The 
work  goes  on  night  and  day.  The 
arched  stone  galleries  and  the  wells 
called  tornos  are  well  deserving  of  close 
attention ;  the  machinery  is  not  worthy 

of  the  rest. 
The  thickness  of  the  seam  of  cinnabar 

is  some  50  feet,  the  mining  operations 
being  carried  on  by  means  of  shafts  and 
adits.  At  the  village  of  Almadenejos 
horn  mercury  occurs.  The  furnaces  at 
the  bottom  of  the  hill  give  off  terribly 
deleterious  fumes,  and  are  fed  with, 
wood  as  fuel. 

For  further  particulars  see :  '  Minas 
de  Almaden,'  by  Casimo  de  Prado 
(Madrid,  1846);  'Ore  Deposits,'  by  J. 
A.  Phillips  (London,  1884) ;  the  Anales 
de  Minas,  the  Revista  Minera,  and  the- 
annual  commercial  and  consular  reports- 
issued  in  London. 


14 


ALMERIA, 


Capital  of  province  of  same  name. 
Population  46,000. 

Koutes,  Conv. — 1.  From  Granada  by 
diligence  to  Guadix :  thence  by  rail, 
100  kil.,  two  trains  daily  in  4  or  5 
hours;  fares  pes.  11.65,  pes.  9.10,  pes. 
5.55.  The  rough  diligence  journey 
will  soon,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  be  super- 
seded by  the  new  railway  to  the 
junction  with  the  N.W.  line.  [This 
line,  the  Linares-Almeria  railway,  is 
completed  (1898)  save  for  the  viaduct 
over  the  Salado ;  so  that  direct  com- 
munication may  be  had  with  Madrid 
by  crossing  the  unbridged  ravine  (some 
300  metres)  at  the  station  of  Larva,] 
For  those  who  prefer  riding  we  subjoin 
another  itinerary. 


Granada  to  Almeria,  riding; 

distance,  2  si 

leagues,  3  days,  or  a  long  ones. 

Leagues 

To  Fargue 

* 

Huetor  de  Santillan 

1 

Cruz  del  Puerto 

ii 

Venta  del  Molinillo  . 

1* 

Diezma     .... 

1} 

Venta  del  Rio  . 

i* 

Guadix     . 

3* 

Sleep. 

Ventorillo  del  Barranquillo 

3 

Alcubillas 

4 

Sleep. 

Gador       .... 

xi 

Benahadux 

3 

»5i 


2.  From  Murcia.  Rail  open  as  far  as 
Baza :  from  thence  a  diligence  to 
Guadix,  where  change  into  Linares- 
Almeria  railway. 

3.  From  Cartagena  and  Malaga  by 
steamer,  twice  a  week,  in  about  12 
hours.  Also  from  Alicante,  Cadiz, 
Gibraltar,  etc.,  by  uncertain  steamers 


(see  local  advts.).  As  a  rule,  these 
coasting  boats  are  to  be  avoided. 

Inns. — Grand  Hotel  de  Tortosa,  Paseo 
del  Principe ;  Hotel  de  Londres,  Plaza 
de  la  Glorieta,  both  fairly  good. 

G-eneral  Description. — Almeria,  the 
Al-Mariyat  of  the  Arabs,  is  situated  on 
the  sea-shore  and  in  a  valley  formed 
by  two  hills  crowned  by  a  castle  and  an 
alcazaba  ;  it  is  surrounded  by  high  walls 
of  most  picturesque  appearance  that 
extend  from  the  sea  to  the  hill ;  then 
follow  the  undulating  ground,  and  from 
the  valley  ascend  to  the  other  hill  and 
back  to  the  city.  These  walls,  with 
their  cubos  or  towers,  are  an  excellent 
specimen  of  mediaeval  and  Moorish  mili- 
tary  architecture  and  engineering ;  the 
forts  still  subsist,  though  the  Al-Kazaba 
is  in  ruins,  and  the  Torreon  del  Homenaje, 
that  overlooks  yawning  precipices,  has 
better  escaped  the  unrelenting  hatred  of 
the  rival  Goth  and  of  time,  and  was  even 
repaired  in  the  15th  century.  Its  two 
Gothic  facades  are  decorated  with  the 
escutcheons  of  the  Catholic  kings,  and 
it  contains  several  low  and  sombre  halls 
and  corridors  with  miradores. 

The  province  of  Almeria  is  not  very 
prosperous,  and  yet  the  soil  is  rich,  and 
yields  plentiful  crops  of  maize  and  corn. 
At  Adra  the  sugar-cane  abounds  ;  at 
Albanchez  and  Kioja  excellent  oranges 
and  lemons  are  produced,  and  many 
varieties  of  American  fruits  grow  almost 
spontaneously  in  the  plains  around  Al- 
meria itself.  Several  very  rich  mines 
are  found  in  the  different  sierras  which 
intersect  it  in  every  direction.  In  that 
of  Gata,  E.  of  Almeria,  jaspers,  agates, 
basaltic  banks.  In  Sierra  Nevada,  W. 
of  the  province,  are  the  celebrated  quar- 
ries of  Macael  marble.  In  Sierra  Ca- 
brera may  be  found  antimony,  malachite, 
gypsum,  magnetic  iron,  etc.    The  Sierra 


ALMKRIA. 


1& 


Almagrera,  E.  of  province,  teems  with 
silver. 

The  climate  is  proverbially  mild,  and 
winter  is  not  known,  except  in  the  ridge 
of  hills  to  N.,  where  snow  often  falls, 
and  the  cold  is  strongly  felt 

The  harbour  is  fine  and  safe,  vessels 
of  heavy  tonnage  being  able  to  load 
alongside  the  mole,  which  is  being 
rapidly  extended.  There  are  several  pro- 
jected  lines  of  railway,  but  none  are 
quite  completed.  The  chief  exports 
consist  of  grapes  (about  800,000  barrels), 
esparto  (20,000  tons),  calamine  (2000 
tons),  iron  ore  (155,000  tons),  almonds, 
oranges  and  other  fruits. 

There  is  little  here  to  interest  the 
ordinary  tourist.     The  chief  sight  is 

Tke  Cathedral. — This    edifice,   of 
about  the  end  of  the  15th  century,  par- 
takes of  the  character  of  the  fortifica- 
tions ;  four  massive  and  once  formidably 
built  and  armed  towers  are  placed  at 
its  angles  ;  the  apse  has  the  shape  of  a 
polygon,  and  its  walls  are  crowned  with 
battlements.    In  151 7  the  warlike  chap- 
ter rebuilt  the  military  works,  if  they 
may  be  so  called,    of  the  cathedral, 
spending  20,000  marvedis  upon  them  ; 
and  when,  on  September  22,  1522,  an 
earthquake  had  battered  the  whole  edi- 
fice, they  lost  no  time,  and  spared  neither 
money  nor  workmen,  in  repairing  their 
walls.    The  principal  facade  is  placed 
between  two  buttresses  or   pilasters, 
that  bear  on  their  basements  alto-relievo 
angels  of  indifferent  execution,   with 
capitals  composed  of  mascarons  and 
jarros.     Between  them  runs  a  gallery 
with  arabesque  open  work  ;  the  portal 
is  effective  and  of  quadrangular  shape, 
much  and  ill  ornamented  ;  the  second 


or  upper  stage  is  ornamented  with  an 
imperial  escutcheon,  the  statues  of  St. 
Peter  and  St.  Paul,  and  a  Virgin  in  a 
niche.  The  interior  belongs  to  the 
period  of  Gothic  Decline,  the  capitals  of 
the  pillars  being  almost  Corinthian  in 
style.  In  a  chapel  situated  in  the  apse 
is  a  rich  marble  tomb  of  a  great  bene- 
factor of  this  church,  called  Fray  Diego 
de  Villola.  It  is  on  the  whole  of  meagre 
appearance.  The  stalls  are  the  work  of 
Juan  de  Orca,  and  the  date  1558-60.; 
they  are  elaborately  sculptured,  but 
without  much  skill  or  taste.  This 
church  has  no  definite  style,  but  is  rather 
a  medley- of  several 

The  other  churches,  San  Domingo 
and  San  Pedro,  are  uninteresting. 

The  Barrio  de  los  Huertos  is  the  most 
populous. 

The  promenade  on  the  muelle  or  jetty 
is  pleasant,  and  the  view  from  it  of  the 
port  and  bay  picturesque. 
Directory. 
Brit.  Vice-Consul.— -W '.  M.  Lindsay, 
Esq. 

U.  8.   A.    Consular  Agent. — F.  C. 
Bevan,  Esq. 
Post  Office.—  Paseo  del  Principe. 
Telegraph  Office, — Calle  de  los  Reyes 
Cat61icos. 

Cafes. — Suizo ;  Universal,  on  the 
Paseo  del  Principe ;  Mendez  Nufiez, 
Calle  de  Alava. 

Casino,  with  foreign  papers.    Visitors 
admitted  upon  member's  introduction. 
Theatres. — El  Principal;  Novedades, 
Paseo  del  Principe ;  Apolo,  Calle  del 
Obispo  Orbera. 

For  details  of  the  mining  industries 
of  the  province,  see  the  '  Boletin  Oficial 
de  Min as.' 


16 


ANDALUSIA. 


The  kingdom  of  Andulasia,  the  espe- 
cially favoured  land,  La  Tierra  ds 
Maria  Santisima,  is  now  divided  into 
eight  provinces,  viz. — 


Pop. 

Pop. 

Sevilla    . 

515,011 

C6rdoba 

382,652 

Malaga  . 

505,010 

Jaen .     . 

392,100 

Granada 

485,346 

Almeria. 

361,553 

Cadiz 

426,499 

Huelva  . 

200,000 

Total 


3,268,171 


All  these  provinces  are  nnder  the  judi- 
cial jurisdiction  of  the  Audiencias  of 
Seville  and  Granada,  and  ecclesiastically 
under  the  suffragans  of  Seville  and 
Granada. 

They  constitute  a  capitania  general, 
whose  centre  is  Seville,  and  which  is 
subdivided  into  as  many  comandancias 
generales  as  there  are  civil  gobiemos 
or  provinces. 

Climate. — This  is  varied.  Granada 
and  Ronda  are,  from  their  altitude  and 
proximity  to  the  snow-capped  moun- 
tains, well  suited  for  the  summer 
months,  whilst  the  genial  temperature 
of  Malaga,  Seville,  Cordova,  etc.,  makes 
them  the  fittest  residences  for  winter. 
On  the  whole,  the  climate  much  re- 
sembles that  of  the  N.  and  portions  of 
the  W.  coasts  of  Africa,  from  which 
South  Andalusia  was  probably  severed 
at  Gibraltar  by  some  great  geological 
convulsion.  Suffice  it  to  state  that  the 
palm,  the  sugar-cane,  orange,  citron, 
are  among  the  commonest  plants  ;  that 
corn  and  barley  are  reaped  when  they 
are  just  about  to  flower  elsewhere,  and 
these  examples,  with  many  others,  will 
convince  our  readers,  if  they  are  not 
already  aware  of  the  fact,  that  in  climate 
Andalusia  has  been  most  especially 
favoured  by  Providence. 

The  cities  are  all  of  very  great  interest 
to  artist,  painter,  ecclesiologist,  and 
antiquary,  for  all  this  country  is  still 
full  of  the  most  glorious  monuments  of 


taste,  grandeur,  and  engineering  skill 
which  the  Moors  erected  during  their 
sway  of  seven  centuries.  Seville  and  its 
alcazar,  cathedral,  and  giralda ;  Granada 
and  the  Alhambra  ;  Cordova  and  its 
wonderful  mosque,  cannot  fail  to  attract 
close  attention  and  untiring  admiration. 
As  for  the  picturesque,  Ronda  and 
Alhama,  Sierra  Nevada,  the  Alpujarras, 
etc..,  will  suffice. 

The  people  themselves  are  notthe least 
interesting  feature  in  Andalusia  ;  they 
are  the  Irish,  the  Gascons,  the  Athenians 
of  Spain  ;  with  them  all  is  gay,  light, 
wit,  love,  dolcefarniente ;  life  is  pleasure, 
the  bull-fight,  pelar  la  pava,  puff  the  ci- 
garrito.  Go  therefore  to  study  this  type 
where  it  is  found  in  all  its  unsophisticated 
raciness.  Repair  to  the  fairs  which  are 
annually  held  at  Mairena  and  Ronda, 
where  you  will  see  the  majeza  in  all  its 
glory,  and  scenes  will  present  themselves 
worthy  of  antique  vases  and  bassi-relievi 
— the  song  in  the  cortijo,  the  dance  on 
the  hera,  and  many  others.  They  have, 
withal,  their  dark  sides  of  character — 
exaggeration,  superstition,  insurmount- 
able laziness,  and  middling  courage 
when  massed  together ;  but  their  gene- 
rosity, verging  on  ostentation,  and  their 
gentlemanly  manners,  are  remarkable. 
However  low  in  station,  the  Andaluz 
may  be  'canaille,'  but  he  cannot  be 
vulgar  ;  for  that  is  never  to  be  found 
where  there  is  a  blue  heaven,  a  bright 
glowing  sun,  no  starving,  and  a  guitar. 
The  beauty  of  the  women  is  proverbial. 
In  a  word — 

La  terra  molle  e  lieta,  e  dilettosa, 
Simili  a  se  gli  abitator  produce. 

The  excellent  methods  of  irrigation 
and  agriculture  introduced  by  the  Arabs 
have  been  neglected,  and  here  are  seen 
despoblados  or  wastes,  some  of  2  or  3 
leagues  in  extent,  where  not  a  house* 


1 


ANDALUSIA. 


17 


uot  a  beast  or  tree,  save  the  lentisk  and 
palmito,  are  to  be  seen.  The  principal 
rivers  are  the  Guadalquivir  (the  Beetis 
Olivifera  of  Martial),  which  has  for  tri- 
butaries the  Sanlucar,  Biar,  Huelva, 
and  the  Genii ;  the  Guadaira,  which 
the  summer  heat  dries  up  every  year  ; 
the  Gaudalete,  which  flows  through  the 
Sierra  de  Ronda  into  the  Bay  of  Cadiz 
•  in  an  almost  parallel  direction  to  the 
Guadalquivir,  which  rises  in  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  and  whose  course  is  of  about 
400  miles.  The  mountains  are — the 
Sierra  Nevada,  Sierra  Morena  (the 
Montes  Mariani  of  the  ancients),  and 
their  ramifications.  The  mineral  wealth 
of  these  provinces  is  very  great,  and 
Tarshish  was  the  Eldorado  to  which 
Solomon  used  to  send  his  ships  for  gold 
and  silver.  It  was  called  also  Turde- 
tania  before  the'  Carthaginians  founded 
colonies  on  all  its  shores  on  the  Medi- 
terranean. Tartessus  is  indifferently 
applied  to  Cadiz  or  Gadir  (Avienus),  to 
several  other  cities,  and  even  to  the 
Beetis  of  Strabo  (p.  148).  The  Tarshish 
of  Scripture  was,  according  to  Betham, 
Bochart,  Florez,  and  others,  applied  to 
all  the  S.W.  region  from  the  Guadal- 
quivir to  the  Straits.  The  Romans 
drove  away  the  Carthaginians,  and  it 
became  a  senatorial  province  after  the 
capture  of  Seville  by  Julius  Csesar  (43 
b.c.)  Under  the  Romans,  the  cities  of 
Ecija,  Seville,  Cordova,  Cadiz,  Italica, 
etc.,  rose  to  great  importance.  At  the 
downfall  of  the  Roman  Empire,  the 
Vandals,  on  their  way  to  Africa,  sacked 
the  cities  and  burned  the  crops.  Baetica 
then  took  the  name  of  Yandalusia, 
which  was  preserved  by  the  Arabs  when 
they,  in  their  turn,  invaded  it ;  though 
some  authors  derive  the  name  *  Belad-al- 
Andalosh,*  from  the  *  Land  of  the  West.* 
It  then  became  an  empire  called  the  Kali- 
fate  of  Cordova.  At  the  downfall  of  the 
tlmmeyah  dynasty,  Andalusia  was  di- 
vided into  the  kingdoms  of  Granada, 
Jaen,  Seville,  and  Cordova,  of  which  the 


first  was  the  last  to  fall  into  the  hands 
of  the  Catholic  kings,  who  added  these 
kingdoms  to  that  of  Castile. 

Travelling  is  easy  now.     We  suggest 
the  following  routes  :  — 

•ut  Tour,  coming  from  Madrid—spring  or 
autumn. 

Cordova 


Seville 
Jerez  . 
Cadiz  . 
Gibraltar 
Ronda 
Malaga 
Alhama 
Granada 


Cadiz 
Jerez   . 
Seville . 
Cordova 
Andujar 
Jaen    . 
Granada 


Malaga 

GibralU] 


tar 


R.  a  days. 


R. 

R. 

R. 

St.,  riding 

R. 

R. 

Ride. 

Ride. 

iaen    .  .        .    R. 

fadrid  R. 

%d  Tour,  from  Gibraltar  avoiding  the  ride. 

St.  x  day  to  visit  it 

R«»  J  »» 
R.,  3  days 
R.  a  days 
R.  x  day 
Ri     „ 
R.  5  days 
R.,  x  day 
R. 


»» 
ti 
u 
if 


u 


This  portion  of  Spain  may  thus  be 
easily  visited,  and  at  the  seaports  and 
Seville  the  constant  flow  of  English 
visitors  has  introduced  comforts.  The 
finest  Moorish  monuments  are  at — 1st, 
Granada;  2d,  Cordova;  3d,  Seville. 
The  finest  churches  are  at  —  1st, 
Seville ;  2d,  Granada ;  3d,  Jaen  ;  4th, 
Malaga.  The  most  picturesque  scenery 
at — 1st,  road  between  Gibraltar  and 
Ronda;  2d,  road  between  Malaga  and 
Granada,  by  Alhama,  and  also  by  Loja, 
Lanjaron,  the  Bay  of  Cadiz,  Motril, 
and  Gibraltar.  With  respect  to  mines, 
forests,  and  agriculture,  we  must  draw 
attention  to  the  copper-mines  of  Rio 
Tinto,  the  quicksilver  at  Almaden, 
phosphate  of  lime  at  Logrosan,  lead  at 
Linares,  marbles  of  Macael  and  Pur- 
ch&ia,  lead  at  Adra,  iron  at  Marbella  ; 
the  forests  of  Segura,  the  sugar-cane 
plantations  of  General  Concha  between 
Marbella  and  Gibraltar,  the  vines  of 
Jerez,  the  raisin-making  at  Malaga,  the 
salinas  of  Cadiz.  The  dress  is  most 
picturesque,  but  too  well  known  to  need 
description. 


18 


ARAQON. 

(THE  SPANISH  PYRENEES.) 


This  former  Reino  (kingdom)  has  been 
divided  into  the  three  provinces  of 
Zaragoza,  Huesca,  and  Teruel,  which 
sum  up  a  population  of  880,643  inhabit- 
ants. Its  nucleus  was  the  former  king- 
dom of  Sobrarbe  (Sobre-Arbe),  which, 
situated  in  the  heart  of  the  Spanish 
Pyrenees,  occupied  a  space  of  12  leagues 
long  by  10  wide.  To  this  and  to  the 
mountains  of  Asturias  the  vanquished 
Goths  fled  for  refuge.  Here  in  time 
several  petty  states  arose,  the  prize  of  a 
bold  chieftain  ;  and  in  the  11th  century 
Sancho  II.,  whose  sway  now  extended 
over  Aragon,  which  had  grown  out  and 
around  Sobrarbe  and  Navarra,  gave  these 
separately  to  his  sons,  one  of  whom, 
Ramiro,  thus  became  the  first  king.  It 
was  in  the  12th  century  annexed  by  mar- 
riage to  Catalonia,  and  was  governed  by 
its  kings  until  1469,  when  the  mar- 
riage took  place  of  its  king,  Ferdinand 
the  Catholic,  with  Isabella  of  Castile. 
The  Aragonese  have  been  remarkable  in 
history  for  their  love  of  independence 
and  public  liberty,  and  a  law  in  the 
fueros  of  Sobrarbe  was  to  the  effect  that 
'  whenever  the  king  should  infringe  the 
fueros,  any  other  might  be  elected  in  his 
stead,  even  should  he  be  a  Pagan. '  The 
authority  of  the  king  was  limited  by 
that  of  the  justicia,  or  high  magistrate, 
named  by  the  people  to  watch  over 
their  liberties,  and  who  was  the  link 
between  the  king  and  the  popular 
assemblies. 

Aragon  is  a  most  fertile  country, 
though  sadly  depopulated.  Rivers  in- 
tersect it  in  all  directions,  and  there  are 
plains  of  considerable  beauty  around 
several  large-  towns.  Corn,  barley,  the 
olive,  and  the  vine,  are  much  and  very 
successfully  cultivated.  The  woollens 
of  Yenasque  and  Albarraoin  are  good, 


and  the  silkworm  has  of  late  been  verj 
successfully  introduced.  The  mineral 
riches  are  not  very  important.  The 
principal  mining  districts  are  : — 

Teruel — sulphur. 

Torres,  Remolinos — salt. 

Grustau,  Graus — coals. 

Jaca,  Canfranc,  Hecho — marbles. 

Alcaniz — aluai. 

Cetrillas,  Daroca— jet 

Almoaja,  Torres,  Noguera-— copper. 

Calcena,  Venasque,  Bielsa — silver. 

Zoma,  Venasque,  Salient — lead. 

The  Aragonese  are  a  cold,  serious, 
obstinate,  daring  race.  There  is  little 
or  no  industry,  letters  and  arts  are  nei- 
ther studied  nor  practised  ;  they  are 
solely  agriculturists,  soldiers,  sports- 
men, smugglers,  and  guerrilleros^ar  ex- 
cellence. The  Spanish  Pyrenees  are  to 
the  traveller  one  of  the  many  hidden 
treasures  in  Spain,  for  they  have  seldom 
been  trodden  save  by  the  smuggler, 
the  flying  Carlist,  and  the  buck  or 
izard.  The  scenery  is  very  grand,  the 
plants  met  with  of  great  variety,  and 
some  species  little  known.  There  is 
good  sport  and  angling  ;  the  bear,  the 
wolf,  and  the  cabra  montesa  or  izard 
(ibex),  abound.  Trout  and  salmon 
thrive  unmolested,  and  there  is  here  a 
virgin  land  alike  for  geologists,  alpen 
stocks,  and  artists.  The  best  season  to 
visit  the  Spanish  Pyrenees  is  summer 
and  spring.  The  latter  must  be  avoided 
by  mountaineers,  on  account  of  the 
avalanches. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Jiloca, 
Jalon,  Cinca,  G&llega.  The  cities  in 
Aragon  have  no  very  great  interest  for 
the  artist,  and  Aragon  has  produced 
but  very  few,  and  mostly  indifferent, 
architects,  sculptors,  and  painters.  The 
finest  churches  are  at  Zaragoza  and 
Huesca;  the  cities  are  poor  in  monu- 


ARAGON. 


19 


ments,  and  those  of  little  importance. 
Zaragoza  nevertheless  has  a  great  cachet 
of  the  16th  and  17th  centuries.  We 
shall  advise  the  general  tourist  to  limit 
his  visit  to  Zaragoza  ;  the  ecclesiologist 
can  extend  his  investigations  to  Jaca, 
Teruel,  Daroca,  Tudela,  Tarazona,  and 
Barbastro.  The  railroad  crosses  the 
most  interesting  portion  of  Aragon ;  the 
carreteras,  or  high  roads,  are  very  ill 
kept;  the  mountain -passes,  often  im- 
practicable, requiring  a  guide  ;  and  ac- 
commodations •  limited  to  hovels  and 
miserable  possadas  (inns).  For  routes 
across  the  Pyrenees  and  mountain- 
passes,  heights,  etc.,  see  Zaragoza  and 
Barcelona,  and  Jaca,  Venasque,  Can- 
franc,  Barbastro,  Huesca,  etc. 

The  Pyrenean  range  in  its  largest 
extent  stretches  from  Cape  Creux  on 
the  Mediterranean  to  Cape  Finisterre 
on  the  Galician  coast,  a  distance  of 
about  650  miles,  comprising  the  Astu- 
rian  portions,  as  well  as  isthmian  part 
of  the  chain,  which  latter  forms  the 
mountain -wall  dividing  Spain  from 
France  ;  the  mean  altitude  of  this  is 
6000  ft.,  the  maximum  height  is  at- 
tained almost  midway  where  the  Pic 
de  Nlthou  rises  11,168  ft.  above  the 
sea.  Between  this  and  the  Pic  du 
Midi  d'Ossau,  70  m.  W.,  are  the  high- 
est peaks  of  the  chain,  many  of  them 
above  10,000  ft.,  and  four  or  five  little 
inferior  to  Pic  de  Nethou.  From  a 
comparative  survey  of  the  chain  on  the 
Spanish  and  French  sides,  it  will  be 
seen  that  while  four-fifths  of  the  waters 
that  rise  on  the  French  side  have  their 
outpouring  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  as 
tributaries  of  the  Adour  and  Garonne, 
all  the  streams  on  the  Spanish  side  are 
received  by  the  Ebro  and  flow  into  the 
Mediterranean.  The  highest  moun- 
tains on  the  Spanish  frontier  are  Monte 
Perdido  (Mont  Perdu),  10,994  ft;  the 
granite  peaks  of  Posets,  11,046  ft.  ; 
and    Nethou,  11,168    ft.      From   the 


higher  mountains  spurs  are  thrown  out 
on  either  side  20  or  30  m.  towards  the 
plain.  There  are  but  five  carriage- 
roads  across  the  chain,  all  lying  to  the 
extreme  E.  or  W.  The  gaps  (puertos), 
with  their  French  equivalents,  col, 
brSche,  howrque,  etc.,  in  the  main  wall 
between  the  two  countries  are  generally 
higher  than  the  ordinary  Alpine  passes, 
and  present  exceedingly  wild  and  grand 
scenery ;  the  cirques  or  orles,  large 
natural  rocky  basins,  have  a  peculiar 
beauty  not  to  be  found  in  the  Alps  ; 
but  on  the  Spanish  side,  being  destitute 
of  snow,  by  reason  of  the  steeper  de- 
clivity on  this  side,  they  do  not  present 
the  same  aspect  with  those  on  the 
French  side.  The  scenery,  on  the 
whole,  together  with  the  dress  of  the 
peasants,  the  style  of  houses  and 
churches,  the  botany,  etc.,  tend  to 
establish  a  curious  but  real  contrast 
between  the  two  sides.  There  is  better 
sport  in  the  Spanish  Pyrenees  ;  and  the 
mineral-springs,  of  which  Panticosa  is 
the  most  celebrated,  are  perhaps  supe- 
rior to  those  issuing  on  the  French  side; 
but  the  want  of  communications,  the 
wretched  accommodation  at  the  Stablisse- 
merits,  and  absence  of  the  most  ordinary 
comforts,  are  all  so  many  drawbacks  to 
a  journey  through  the  Spanish  Pyre- 
nees. We  have  at  *  Barcelona  '  enu- 
merated the  most  important  routes 
from  the  French  Pyrenees  on  that  side 
into  Cataluna,  and  describe  at  Zara- 
goza those  which  comprise  the  main 
routes  leading  to  Aragon  and  Navarre  ; 
the  former  therefore  treating  of  the  E., 
and  the  latter  of  the  W.  range.  The  ex- 
cursions do  not  usually  exceed  four  days. 
The  best  and  safest  guides  to  con- 
sult, and  from  which,  besides  personal 
experience,  we  have  derived  the  above 
information,  are — Dr.  Lambron's  excel- 
lent and  detailed  work  on  the  '  Pyre- 
nees of  Luchon ' ;  the  portable,  concise, 
and  most  practical  *  Guide  to  the  Pyro 


20 


ARANJUEZ. 


nees,'  which  was  written  especially  for 
the  use  of  mountaineers  by  Chas.  Packe, 
Esq.,  with  maps,  etc. ;  Joanne's  'Itin6- 
raire  Descriptif  et  Hist,  des  Pyr6n£es  ;' 
'Souvenirs  d'un  Montagnard'  (1858-88), 
by  Count  Henry  Russell,  Pau,  1888. 

Dress  or  Costume  of  the  Aragonese. 
— It  is  not  unlike  the  Valencian,  and 
differs  from  any  other  in  Spain.  The 
men  wear  knee-breeches,  generally  of 
the  common  cotton  velvet  called  pana, 
ornamented  about  the  pockets  and  ex- 
tremities with  filigree  buttons  and  old 
medios  reales  in  silver,  blue  woollen 
stockings  and  sandals.  The  upper 
man  is  clad  in  a  black  velvet  waistcoat, 
which  is  a  substitute  for  a  coat  or 
jacket,  decorated  also  with  filigree  but- 
tons, and  very  short,  so  as  to  show  the 
wide  silk  or  cotton  red  or  vivid  blue 
faja,  which  is  a  whole  sac  de  voyage, 
containing  and  concealing  cigars,  na- 
vajas,  money,  etc.  The  slouched  hat 
is  not  often  worn,  and  a  coloured  ker- 
chief is  fastened  like  a  band  or  diadem 
round  their  foreheads,  leaving  the  upper 
portion  alfresco ;  the  mantas  in  which 
they  are  most  gracefully  draped  are  of 


various  colours,  white  streaked  with 
blue  and  black  being  much  worn.  The 
women's  dress  is  not  nearly  so  pictur- 
esque nor  complicated  ;  it  is  very  like 
that  of  the  Catalonian  women.  Ob- 
serve their  antique  ear-rings,  crosses, 
rosaries,  etc. 

Books  of  Reference. — 1.  '  Anales  de 
la  Corona  de  Aragon,'  by  Ger.  Zurita, 
Chronista  del  Reino,  Zaragoza,  Bermoz, 
1562,  fol  Two  other  editions  of  1610 
and  1669-70,  found  in  several  public 
libraries.  It  is  the  most  important 
work  ever  written  on  Aragon,  full  of 
erudition,  free  from  bombast,  excelling 
in  the  selection  of  the  most  trustworthy 
sources. 

2.  Argensola's  excellent  sequel  to 
Zurita's  '  Anales,  Zaragoza,  Lanaja,' 
1630,  fol.  The  author  is  a  standard 
classical  Spanish  historian.  The  in- 
formation is  reliable. 

3.  ( Historia  de  la  Economia  Politica 
de  Aragon,'  by  Asso  del  Rio,  Zaragoza, 
Magallon,  1798. 

4.  Souvenirs  d'un  Montagnard  (1858- 
88).  By  Count  Henry  Russell  (Pau, 
1888). 


ARANJUEZ. 


Prov.  of  Madrid. — Population,  8000 
(1898). 

Koutes. — From  Madrid  by  rail*; 
time,  1£  hr.  by  mail  train,  and  2  hrs. 
by  ordinary  train.  It  is  on  the  line 
from  Madrid  to  Alicante  and  Valencia  ; 
distance,  30}  m.  ;  fares,  1st  cl.,  Pes. 
5.65  ;  2d,  Pes.  4.40  ;  3d,  Pes.  2.70.  Six 
trains  a  day,  and  one  or  two  more  dur- 
ing the  irregular  Jornada  (the  Court 
no  longer  resides  here).  From  Toledo, 
distance,  42  kil.  ;  fares,  1st  cl.,  Pes. 
4.35  ;  2d,  Pes.  8.35 ;  3d,  Pes.  1.95  ; 
awkward  delays  at  Castillejo.  From 
Alicante  and  Valencia,  dist.  407  kil., 
and  444  kil. 


Hotels,  Houses. — At  station,  a  mid- 
dling buffet ;  Fonda  (Hotel)  de  las 
cuatro  NacUmes,  formerly  de  la  Regina, 
opposite  the  gardens:  fair:  complaints 
of  overcharges  and  incivility.  The 
situation  is  not  good,  as  to  reach  the 
gardens  the  square  is  to  be  crossed, 
which  is  no  joke  when  the  thermometer 
is  80°  Fahr.  Rooms  decent ;  cooking 
pretty  good ;  pension  from  7  pes. 
upwards.  Fonda  de  Embajadores, 
similar  prices,  situated  in  a  street  bttt 
very  close  to  gardens ;  clean  and  cool 
in  summer ;  fire  -  places  in  winter  ; 
a  restaurant ;  civil  people  ;  chargjes 
moderate.     Fonda  Pastor,  fair,  reasSjn- 

i 
J 

/ 


ARANJUEZ. 


21 


able ;  view  on  the  gardens.  There 
are  houses  to  let  upon  ve*y  reasonable 
terms. 

Mired  Carriages. — Caleches,  very 
good,  with  two  horses  ;  a  stand  olose  to 
the  Embajadores ;  fares,  16r.  the  first 
hr.,  14r.  the  second,  and  following; 
lOr.  the  course,  if  within  the  village  or 
from  station,  where  there  are  omnibuses 
also  during  the  summer  only. 

Post-Office.— Open  from  7  to  11.30 
A.M.,  and  from  7  to  11  p.m.  Letters 
delivered  at  9  a.m.  and  10  p.m.,  but 
with  something  of  Spanish  irregularity. 
Letters  leave  at  6  a.m.  and  9.15  a.m., 
and  an  extra  ditto  at  3  p.  m. 

Telegraph  at  the  station. 

General  Description. — The  illustri- 
ous and  wealthy  Order  of  Santiago  held 
several  large  estates  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Tagus,  of  which  the  finest 
was  an  aldea,  called  Aranzuel  or  Aran- 
zueje,  happily  placed  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Tagus  and  Jarama.  Trees  were 
planted,  vines  and  olives  cultivated, 
and  near  the  spot  now  occupied  by  the 
palace,  a  villa,  partaking  of  both  the 
convent  and  the  castle,  was  erected  in 
the  15th  century,  by  the  Maestre  of  the 
Order,  Suarez  de  Figueroa.  When  the 
Maestranza  was  incorporated  to  the 
crown,  it  became  the  temporary  summer 
residence  of  the  Catholic  kings,  and  the 
Isla  was  a  very  favourite  resort  of  Queen 
Isabella  in  her  promenades.  Charles 
V.  improved  the  palace,  purchased  land 
and  kept  it  up  for  shooting.  Under 
Philip  II.  several  additions  were  made 
by  the  architects  Toledo  and  Herrera. 
The  marshes  of  Ontigola  were  con- 
verted into  a  lake  now  pompously 
called  a  mar  (a  sea)  ;  and  it  was  a 
pleasant  and  a  regal  residence  as  far 
back  as  1575.  Two  consecutive  fires 
destroyed  the  greater  portion  of  the 
palace,  when  Philip  V.  caused,  in  1727, 
a  new  set  of  buildings  to  be  erected  in 
imitation  of  the  Louis  XIV.  style,  and 


the  older  and  remaining  portions  be- 
came absorbed  in  the  new  works. 
One  Pedro  Caro  was  the  architect  of 
this  Spanish  Fontainebleau,  which  is 
as  inferior  to  its  model  (though  even 
this  one  is  no  gem)  as  La  Granja 
(excepting  the  gardens)  is  below  Ver- 
sailles. Fernando  VI.  improved  on  it, 
and  Charles  III.  added  the  two  salient 
aisles  at  the  extremities  of  the  principal 
facade. 

The  village  was  built  after  an  impres- 
sion de  voyage  of  Marquis  Grimaldi,  who 
had  just  returned  from  his  embassy  to 
the  Hague.  It  was  a  ludicrous  idea  to 
apply  Dutch  architecture  to  a  Spanish 
climate,  and  the  effect  is  curious,  cold, 
and  unpleasant  The  streets  are  per- 
fectly straight,  very  wide,  and  treeless, 
and  formed  by  miserable  houses,  all  on 
the  same  plan,  two  storejTS,  small  win- 
dows without  shutters,  and  low  roofs. 
The  desertion  of  Aranjuez  by  tho 
Court,  in  favour  of  La  Granja,  has 
deprived  the  place  of  what  little  life 
it  used  at  times  to  possess.  Several 
people  have  recently  built  villas  around 
or  close  to  the  gardens,  the  best  being 
that  of  Senor  Salamanca,  the  Spanish 
Hudson,  who  made  the  first  railway 
in  Spain  (that  of  Aranjuez).  The 
villas  of  Marshal  Narvaez,  Count  of 
Ofiate,  Marquis  of  Miraflores,  are  also 
lions  of  the  place,  but  not  worth  the 
trouble  of  seeing.  The  only  sights 
here  are : — 

The  Palace. — Apply  for  permit  to 
the  Senor  Intendente  del  Palacio  Real, 
whose  office  is  in  the  long  line  of  outer 
buildings  close  by  the  palace.  But  if 
the  visitor  is  staying  in  one  of  the 
hotels,  the  landlord  will  save  all  trouble. 
Fee  to  porter  who  shows  the  palace, 
from  lOr.  to  20r.  The  principal  facade 
is  the  best,  and  is  not  wanting  in  good 
proportions  and  effect.  The  facade 
towards  the  parterre  is  something  be- 
tween a  poorhouse  in  Holland  and  a 


22 


ARANJUEZ. 


convent  or  fabrik.  The  situation  is 
charming,  as  it  is  surrounded  by  regal 
avenues  of  stately  elms  and  sycamores, 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Tagus  and 
Jarania,  which  form  small  islands  here 
and  there,  clothed  with  trees,  a  fine  cas- 
cade boiling  down  close  under  the  win- 
dows. The  interior  is  very  indifferent, 
and  the  furniture,  numberless  clocks 
and  candelabra,  belong  to  the  stiff  un- 
meaning Greco-Roman  style,  adopted 
by  Charles  IV.  and  Ferdinand  VII. 
There  are  a  few  pictures  by  Jordan,  as 
the  Spaniards  call  Lucca  Giordano, 
alias  Lucca  Fa  Presto  ;  a  series  of 
pictures  representing  scenes  from  the 
story  of  the  Prodigal  Son,  Orpheus 
and  Apollo,  Bathsheba  and  Judith,  by 
Conrado  Bayeu  ;  several  frescoes  by 
Mengs,  Amiconi,  and  other  worthies 
of  the  worst  period  of  Spanish  painting. 
There  is,  nevertheless,  a  fine  Titian  in 
the  chapel,  representing  the  Annunci- 
ation of  the  Virgin,  which  the  master 
gave  to  Charles  V.  The  Odbinete  de  la 
China  is  the  most  elegant  boudoir  that 
could  be  dreamed  of  in  Belgravia ;  the 
walls,  doors,  ceilings,  are  all  fitted  up 
with  Capo  di  Monte  porcelain,  in  high 
relief.  This  gem  was  placed  here  by 
Charles  III.  The  colours,  composition, 
and  execution  are  wonderful ;  the  artist, 
Joseph  Gricci.  It  is  dated  1762.  There 
are  two  rooms  in  the  Alhambraic  style, 
fn  the  queen's  despacho  there  is  a  good 
Teniers,  and  her  toilet-room  has  some 
mosquettine  and  large  mirrors. 

Casa  del  Labrador. — A  special  per- 
mit to  see  this  other  palace,  to  be  ob- 
tained as  before,  (J8P  A  silver  key  opens 
all  these  gates  and  doors.  This  farm- 
house, as  the  name  implies,  is  an 
affected  modesty,  for  it  is  nothing  but  a 
palace,  and,  though  small,  is  better  fur- 
nished than  the  larger  one  ;  but,  unlike 
the  Escorial  Cell,  which  is  a  suite  of 
stately  rooms,  this  Cottage  is  a  series  of 
boudoirs — a   Petit   Trianon,   built  by 


Charles  III.,  and  worthy  of  a  Pompa 
dour.  The  ceilings  are  all  painted  by 
Zacarias  Velasquez  (not  the  great  man), 
Lopez,  an  R.  A.,  Maella,  etc.  The 
walls  of  the  back  staircase  are  painted 
with  scenes  and  personages  of  the  time 
of  Charles  I.  ;  the  dress  of  the  period 
and  other  details  are  the  only  interesting 
feature.  On  the  top  is  figured  a  balcony, 
on  which  are  leaning  the  handsome  wife 
and  children  of  the  painter,  Zac.  Velas- 
quez. The  bannister  on  the  front  stair- 
case contains  £8000  value  of  gold,  and 
the  marbles  over  the  doors,  etc. ,  are  very 
fine.  The  ceiling  of  large  saloon  re- 
presents the  four  parts  of  the  world,  by 
Maella.  There  are  some  fine  Sevres 
vases,  and  a  chair  and  table  in  malachite, 
a  present  of  Prince  Demidoffs,  valued 
at  about  £1500.  Visit  the  gabinete  de 
platina,  inlaid  with  this  metal,  ivory, 
and  ebony ;  and  the  one  next  to  it, 
where  mirrors  have  been  profusely 
placed  where  they  are  least  required. 
There  are  beautifully-embroidered  silks 
and  damasks  on  the  walls,  representing 
views  in  Italy  and  Greece,  marines,  etc. 
The  ceilings  and  doors  are  very  low. 

Gardens. — De  la  Isla. — Those  so 
called  are  situated  around  the  larger 
palace.  They  were  originally  laid  out 
under  Philip  II.,  and  an  idea  of  then 
style  at  that  epoch  may  be  formed  from 
the  picture  taken  of  them  by  Velasquez, 
now  in  the  Royal  Gallery  at  Madrid, 
under  Nos.  1109  (representing  the  Last 
Fountain  in  the  Garden  de  la  Isla),  and 
1110  (representing  the  Avenue  or  Calle 
de  la  Reina).  Much  was  modified  after- 
wards in  the  Lendtre  style  of  Ver- 
sailles ;  now  they  are  in  great  neglect 
and  weedy,  the  fountains  mostly  dry, 
the  leaves  unswept  up,  and  little  more 
done  than  the  sowing  of  rye  grass 
and  the  making  of  narrow  walks  and 
plots.  There  are  some  magnificent 
elms  and  planes,  of  the  species  Ulma 
nigra  and  Platanus  orientalis  (Linn.) 


ARANJUEZ. 


23 


These  trees  (originally  brought  from 
England)  were  once  as  great  rarities 
here  as  the-orange  tree,  the  olive,  and 
the  palm  would  be  in  a  garden  at  Wind- 
sor or  Kensington.  Parterre, — The 
Fountain  of  Hercules,  with  the  columns 
of  Calpe  and  Abyla  (Gibraltar  and 
Oeuta) ;  round  the  pedestal  are  sculp- 
tured the  labours  of  the  god,  and  above 
his  statue  and  Anteus.  The  Fountains 
of  Bacchus,  de  la  Alcachofa,  are  of  in- 
different execution.  Close  to  the  sus- 
pension bridge  isalarge  English-looking 
flour-mill,  the  property  of  Mr.  Drake 
del  Castillo,  Marquis  of  Vegamar.  In 
the  Gardens  del  Principe,  where  the 
Casa  del  Labrador  is  situated,  the  trees 
are  also  very  fine,  and  make  of  Aran- 
juez  a  charming  oasis  in  the  midst  of 
the  dusty  scorched-up  desert  wherein 
Madrid  is  placed,  and  to  which  the 
foreign  residents  at  Madrid — for  the 
Spaniard  is  no  lover  of  trees  and  rua — 
escape  at  times  to  breathe  in  summer, 
and  hear  the  choirs  of  sweet-tongued 
nightingales,  a  rara  avis  for  Madrilenos. 
There  are  some  fine  cedars  of  Lebanon 
and  colossal  elms.  Visit  the  Isias 
Americanas,  peopled  with  several  in- 
teresting species  imported  from  America 
under  Charles  III.  The  usual  cockney- 
fied  montaftas  rusas,  and  suizas,  grot- 
toes, kiosks,  fountains,  labyrinths,  etc., 
found  in  the  gardens  of  that  period  of 
bad  taste,  abound  also  here.  On  the 
banks  of  the  river,  which  flows  some- 
what rapidly,  are  some  paddocks  of  the 
crown,  where  the  cream-coloured  Aran- 
juez  breed  are  reared,  and  also  several 
camels,  llamas,  etc.  According  to  the 
journal  kept  by  Lord  Auckland,  am- 
bassador to  Charles  III.,  there  was 
great  animation  here  at  that  time,  the 
court  and  ministers  dined  between  twelve 
and  two  o'clock,  and  drove  to  the  Calle 
de  la  Reina  at  five,  in  landaus  drawn 
by  six  or  ten  mules,  and  four  footmen 
behind.      There  was  much  shooting, 


hunting,  balls,  and  intrigues,  and  fre- 
quent exhibitionsof  horsemanshipcalled 
parcjas,  where  the  princes  and  young 
nobleman  played  the  most  prominent 
part,  in  the  presence  of  10,000  or 
12,000  spectators.  The  horses,  to  the 
sound  of  music,  formed  into  various 
figures  *  resembling  a  very  complicated 
dance.' 

The  most  interesting  drives  are  Camino 
de  las  Rocas  to  Lago  de  Ontigola,  etc., 
and  to  the  Bodega  or  wine-cellars, 
made  on  a  very  great  scale  by  Charles 
III.  in  1788  ;  they  are  curious  for  theii 
size.  The  wine  made  in  the  environs  is 
of  inferior  quality,  which  has  not  been 
improved  by  such  good  connoisseurs  and 
landed  proprietors  as  Senores  Marin, 
Zayas,  etc.  The  caballerizas  (stables) 
are  in  the  village  itself,  but  no  longer 
deserve  a  visit,  since  the  finest  of  the 
horses  have  been  removed. 

There  is  a  theatre  open  during  the 
season,  which  begins  about  April  and 
ends  in  June,  when  all  who  can  depart, 
as  then  the  heat  is  very  great,  and  the 
ague  resulting  from  the  great  evapora- 
tion and  stagnant  waters  to  be  dreaded, 
causing  many  deaths  amongst  the  inha- 
bitants. The  bull-ring  is  large,  and 
there  are  occasionally  very  good  corri- 
das. The  sporting  world  of  Madrid 
contrive  now  and  then  to  get  up  a 
steeplechase,  which  is  about  what  a 
bull-fight  would  be  in  England. 

At  very  rare  intervals  the  court  resides 
at  this  sitio  real  in  the  early  sum- 
mer. There  is  then  some  animation  in 
this  otherwise  dull  and  monotonous 
place  ;  but  Aranjuez,  even  then,  cannot 
recover  its  past  splendour  and  gaieties, 
and  well  may  we  exclaim  with  Schiller, 

Die  schdnen  Tage  in  Aranjuez  sind  nun  xu 
Ende  ! — Don  Carlos. 

Books  of  Reference. — 1.  'Obras  Li- 
ricas  y  C6micas,  Divinas  y  Humanas,' 
etc.,  by  Hurtado  de  Mendoza;  Madrid, 
Zuhiga,  about  1728.     A  verse  and  prose 


24 


ASTURIAS. 


description  of  the  gardens  and  palaces  ; 
contains,  moreover,  one  of  a  fiesta  in  the 
time  of  Charles  II.  of  Spain. 

2.  'Descripcion  Historica  de  la  El. 
Casa  y  Bosque  de  Aranjuez,'  by  Guin- 
dos  y  Buena;  Madrid,  Impta.  Real, 
1804. 

3.  'Descripcion  de  los  Jardines  Fu- 
entes,  Estatuas  Palacio,  Casa  del  La- 


brador/ etc,  by  M.  Aleas;   Madrid, 
1824. 

4.  '  Guia  Pintoresca  Descripcion,' 
etc.,  by  E.  de  E.  y  R. ;  Madrid,  Rufino, 
1864.  The  mineral  springs  (!)  and  flora 
of  the  cerros  around  Aranjuez  have  been 
given  by  Doctor  Gamez  in  his  '  Ensayo 
sobre  las  Aguas  Medicinales  de  Aran- 
juez,' 1771. 


ASTURIAS. 


If  we  are  to  believe  Silius  Italicus  and 
others,  the  Asturians  descend  by  name 
and  race  from  Astyr,  a  follower,  or  rather 
servant,  of  Memnon,  and  fugitive  from 
Troy.  Father  Sota,  in  his  '  Cr6nica  de 
los  Prfncipes  de  Asturias,'  too  proud  to 
admit  of  Astyr  for  his  low  origin,  con- 
verts him  into  Jupiter  Cretensis  and 
Mercury  Trismegistus,  etc.  But  the  real 
origin  of  the  name  comes  from  the  river 
Astura,  afterwards  called  Extula  and 
Stola,  and  finally  Ezla ;  and  the  Asturii 
were  then  the  different  peoples  that 
dwelt  between  the  Cantabrian  Sea  and 
the  Duero,  which  latter  separated  them 
from  the  Vettoni,  as  the  Ezla  from  the 
Vaccaci,  etc.  The  most  warlike  amongst 
them  were  the  Transmontane  Asturii, 
who  lived  between  the  ocean  and  the 
Erbasian  hills,  which  to  this  day  tfre 
called  Arvas,  and  whose  limits  corre- 
spond exactly  to  those  of  the  present 
principality  of  Asturias.  They  were  ori- 
ginally peopled  by  the  Liguri  of  Italy 
(see  Avienus),  and  are  mentioned  in 
Himilcar's  'Journey  round  Spain.'  The 
Celts  presently  settled  here,  and  a  por- 
tion of  them  mixed  with  the  Asturii ; 
they  were  a  most  warlike,  independent 
race,  and  the  Romans  had  great  trouble 
to  overcome  them.  Augustus  himself 
came  in  27  B.o.  with  that  object,  and 
had  to  retire,  dejected,  out  of  humour 
and  patience,  to  Tarragona,  and,  as  is 
well  known,  the  Cantabrian  war  lasted 
upwards  of  five  years,  at  the  end  of 


which  time  Agrippa  subdued  them.  The 
riches  of  this  country  did  not  escape  the 
shrewd  Roman,  who  knew  that  money 
is  the  nerve  of  war.  Lucan,  Martial, 
S.  Italicus,  mention  the  mines  that 
abounded  : 

Astur  avarus 
Visceribus  laurae  telluris  mergitur  imis, 
Et  redit  infelix  eflfoso  concolor  auro. 

Pliny  was  not  ignorant  of  them,  and 
Florus  says  :  *  Circa  se  omnis  aurifera, 
miniique  et  chrysocallae  et  aliorum,  co- 
larum  ferax. '  The  Roman  Treasury  was 
in  the  yearly  receipt  of  20,000  libras  of 
gold  from  Asturias.  The  sure-footed, 
gentle,  and  untiring  jaquitas,  called  by 
them  Asturcones,  are  praised  by  S. 
Italicus  as 

Ingentes   animi,  membra   haud   procera   de- 

cusque : 
Corporis  exiguum  ;  sed  turn  sibi  fecerat  alas, 
Concitus,  atque  ibat  campo  indygnatas  habenas. 

The  Romanised  Asturians,  so  to  say, 
made  great  resistance  to  the  Goth,  and 
it  was  not  until  the  7th  century  that 
they  submitted.  When  the  hour  of  the 
downfall  of  the  Gothic  monarchy  had 
sounded  for  all  Spain,  the  mountains 
between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Mediter- 
ranean became  the  refuge  of  those  who 
had  not  bent  before  the  Berber,  and 
in  a  community  of  danger,  the  descend- 
ant of  the  Roman,  the  blue-eyed  Goth, 
and  the  tall  Iberian,  all  became  one  and 
the  same  race,  and  were  regenerated, 
and  found  unity  and  strength,  by  seek- 


ASTUR1AS. 


25 


ing  in  common  a  country  and  liberty. 
Pelayo,  a  Roman  by  name,  but  whose 
father,  Favilla,  was  a  Goth,  and  of  the 
blood  royal,  came  from  Toledo,  where 
he  commanded  Witiza's  body-guard,  and 
roused  his  countrymen  to  fight.  The 
love  of  his  country  moved  him  to  it,  as 
well  as  the  outrages  his  sister  had  been 
exposed  to  at  the  hands  of  Munuza. 
The  Berbers  sent  Al-Kaman  to  reduce 
the  independent  tribes.  Pelayo  headed 
his  troops,  and  succeeded  in  drawing 
the  Arabs  into  the  recesses  and  danger- 
ous gorges  of  Covadonga,  where  he  mas- 
sacred them  by  thousands — 187,000, 
according  to  Bishop  Sebastian,  and 
80,000,  to  the  Tudense.  The  chief 
Pelayo  was  now  proclaimed  king,  and 
during  nineteen  years  endeavoured  to 
consolidate  a  kingdom,  which  was 
created  in  a  day  of  victory.  To  achieve 
his  work  he  was  not  a  little  aided  by  the 
divisions  amid  the  Arabs,  their  defeats 
in  the  south  of  France,  and  more  espe- 
cially by  the  inaccessibility  of  those 
natural  barriers  which,  moreover,  led  to 
no  wealthy  cities.  Other  attempts 
were  made  among  the  Basques,  in 
Navarre  and  Aragon,  which  gradually 
gave  birth  to  a  series  of  new  petty 
kingdoms,  remaining  separate,  and 
practically  independent,  until  Aragon 
was  united  with  Castile,  in  1474,  by 
the  auspicious  marriage  of  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  and  twenty-eight  years 
later  Navarre  was  conquered  by  Ferdi- 
nand, in  1512.  Oviedo  became  the 
capital  of  the  Asturias,  after  Cangas  de 
Onis  and  Pravia  had  ceased  to  be  such, 
and  after  becoming  in  turn  the  victim 
and  head  of  its  neighbours,  Leon  and 
Galicia,  were  absorbed  in  the  kingdom 
of  Castile.  When  Juan  I.  married  his 
son  Henry  to  Catherine,  daughter  of 
the  Duke  of  Lancaster,  the  Cortes  of 
Palencia  (1388)  decreed  that  the  Astu- 
rias would  henceforth  become  the  ap- 
panage of  the  heirs  to  the  crown,  and 


they  have  ever  since  been  styled  /Yin- 
cipes  de  Asturias. 

Asturias  is  situated  on  a  much  lower 
level  than  Castile,  and  is  intersected  by 
hills,  which  form  rich  Swiss-like  vales, 
where  pasture  is  abundant.  The  sierra 
on  the  S.  rises  like  a  gigantic  wall,  and 
is  but  a  prolongation  of  the  Pyrenean 
system,  and  impracticable  save  by  the 
Puerto  de  Pajcvres.  It  closes  in  a  line 
parallel  to  the  sea,  which  forms  its  na- 
tural barrier  on  the  N.  It  occupies  a 
surface  of  388  square  leagues,  with  a 
somewhat  dense  population  of  524,520, 
giving  341  '80  per  Spanish  mile  of  20  to 
the  degree.  The  aspect  of  Asturias 
varies,  but  it  is  in  general  woody,  with 
fruit  trees,  planes,  the  chestnut,  and  ash 
in  the  valley  region.  The  mountainous 
districts  abound  in  Salvator  Rosa-like 
rocks  and  ravines,  foaming  torrents 
gushing  from  the  summits  into  yawning 
precipices,  virgin  forests  of  oaks,  the 
Quercus  robwr  (Linn.),  and  beech-trees, 
and  the  bear  and  the  wolf  are  not  unfre- 
quently  met  with.  In  the  coast-line 
the  vegetation  changes,  and  there  are 
between  sheltering  hills  bosomed  vales 
where  the  orange  grows. 

The  climate  is  generally  damp  and 
cold,  on  account  of  the  icy  blasts  from 
the  snowy  hills,  and  the  cierzo  or  N. 
wind  which  blows  from  its  denuded 
shores.  There  is  much  fog  and  con- 
tinued rains,  a  consequence  of  the  high 
hills,  the  abundance  of  trees,  and  water. 
These  vapours,  which  in  some  portions 
and  at  certain  periods  hang  over  the 
valleys,  produce  an  absence  of  chiaro 
oscuro,  which  deprives  the  scenery, 
otherwise  grand  and  varied,  of  anima- 
tion and  relief. 

Agriculture  is  the  principal  occupa- 
tion of  the  people ;  the  eerUeno  (rye) 
grows  well  on  the  slopes  of  the  moun- 
tains, corn  has  been  of  late  years  much 
cultivated,  especially  the  species  called 
candeal  or  tscanda;  and   the  Indian 


26 


ASTURIAS. 


corn,  called  here  borofla,  is  grown.  The 
vine,  which  was  cultivated  in  the  middle 
ages,  has  been  superseded  by  the  poma- 
rada,  or  apple-trees,  from  which  toler- 
able cider  is  extracted.  Cattle  and  sheep 
are  the  object  of  much  attention,  and 
the  piaras  of  pigs  are  celebrated.  The 
hills  and  spurs  of  the  sierras  abound 
with  game,  wild  boars,  and  deer,  and 
the  rivers  with  trout  and  salmon.  The 
Ayuntamientos,  or  Commons,  are  sub- 
divided into  feligresias,  and  these  again 
into  lugares  (from  locus).  The  houses 
in  these  country  places  are  clean,  tidy, 
and  white-washed ;  close  to  them  are 
the  orrios  or  granaries  (from  the  Latin 
horreum), which  are  made  of  wood,  and 
rise  upon  pillars,  so  as  to  keep  out  rats 
and  moisture. 

The  people  are  a  hardy,  humble, 
good-hearted  race,  celebrated  for  their 
honesty  and  industry,  and  of  patriarchal 
habits.  In  this  corner  of  Spain,  where 
railways  and  the  press  have  hardly  yet 
penetrated,  there  are  treasures  of  novel 
scenes,  costumes,  and  customs  in  store 
for  the  artist ;  as,  for  example,  the  ro- 
merias,  or  pilgrimages  to  the  princi- 
pal shrines  of  this  piously-minded 
people.  There  is  heard  the  old  war-cry, 
ijujii !  and  the  dance,  worthy  of  a  bass- 
relief,  called  danza  prima,  takes  place, 
which  consists  of  two  choirs,  one  exclu- 
sively composed  of  men,  who  move  hand 
in  hand  and  slowly  round  in  a  circle, 
keeping  time  with  the  melancholy  ro- 
mance which  is  sung  by  a  choir  of  women. 
This,  the  muileira,  and  others  not  less 
poetical  and  antique  in  character  are 
danced  also  after  the  coida,  or  fruit- 
gathering  (harvest).  On  the  long  win- 
ter nights,  when  the  snow  lies  so  thick  at 
the  door  that  the  very  stars  seem  shiver- 
ing in  the  amethyst  heaven,  and  the  big 
round  moon  peeps  ghost-like  at  the  win- 
dow, the  elders  of  the  village  or  farm 
sit  round  the  shining  liar,  and  frighten 
the  maidens  and  amuse  the  lads  with 


legends  of  a  truly  German  cast,  whereto 
are  mentioned  the  doings  of  the  xanas, 
or  diminutive  fairies  that  rise  from 
fountains  and  springs  at  night  time, 
and  dry  their  slimy  hair  in  the  moon- 
beams ;  and  the  evil  and  mischief-mak- 
ing huestes,  that  appear  in  the  woods 
and  over  marshes,  messengers  of  sorrow 
and  death.  The  meetings  in  the  open 
air,  the  oblada,  or  eating-offering  at 
funerals,  are  likewise  curious. 

The  idiom  is  a  dialect  of  the  Romance, 
the  only  one  possessing  a  distinct  form 
for  the  neuter  gender  in  adjectives. 
It  has  great  analogy  with  the  Galician 
and  Portuguese,  and  also  with  the 
Italian  and  Limousin.  It  is  called 
Bable,  a  word  not  unlike  the  French 
babil,  and  Dutch  babelen,  for  which  the 
Spanish  has  no  equivalent  save  charla 
and  gerigonza.  In  this  dialect  the  j 
sounds  y,  and  often  like  ch,  the  /is  in- 
stead of  h  aspirate  (falar  for  hablar, 
fer  for  hacer).  With  but  few  modifica- 
tions it  is  almost  the  same  language  in 
which  Berceo,  Segura,  and  the  Arci- 
preste  de  Hita  wrote ;  the  number  of 
augmentatives  and  diminutives  give  to 
it  great  charm,  strength,  and  tenderness. 
There  are  no  vestiges  of  Bable  ballads 
anterior  to  the  17th  century,  and  those 
sung  or  found  in  Asturias  dating  before 
are  in  Castilian.  Of  the  latter  we  may 
be  allowed  to  give  an  example  :  it  is 
the  most  popular  ballad  in  Asturias, 
and  in  quaintness  and  plaintive  strain 
is  not  unlike  some  Scottish  ballads. 
It  is  sung  by  alternate  choirs,  at  their 
dances,  and  is  a  Castilian  romance  : — 

Ay  un  galan  de  esta  villa, 
Ay  un  galan  de  esta  casa 
Ay  61  por  aqui  venia, 
Ay  el  por  aqui  Uegaba. 
— Ay  diga  lo  que  61  queria 
Ay  diga  lo  que  e*l  buscaba. 
— Ay  busco  la  blanca  nina, 
Ay  busco  la  nina  blanca, 
La  que  el  cabello  tejia 
La  que  f  1  cabello  trenzaba, 


ASTURIAS. 


27 


Que  tiene  voz  delgadita, 
Que  tiene  la  voz  delgada. 
— Ay  que  no  la  hay  n'esta  villa, 
Ay  que  no  la  hay  n'esta  casa, 
Si  no  era  una  mi  prima, 
Si  no  era  una  mi  hermana, 
Ay  del  marido  pedida, 
Ay  del  marido  velada. 
Ay  la  tiene  alii  Sevilla, 
Ay  la  tiene  alia  Granada, 
Ay  bien  qu'ora  la  castiga, 
Ay  bien  que  la  castigaba, 
Ay  con  varillas  de  oliva, 
Ay  con  varillas  de  malva. 
— Ay  que  su  amigo  la  cita, 
Ay  que  su  amigo  l'aguarda, 
Ay  el  que  le  did  la  cinta, 
Ay  el  que  le  did  la  saya, 
Al  pie"  de  una  fuente  fria, 
Al  pie*  de  una  fuente  clara 
Que  por  el  oro  corria, 
Que  por  el  oro  manaba. 
Ya  su  buen  amor  venia, 
Ya  su  buen  amor  Uegaba, 
Por  donde  ora  el  sol  salia, 
Por  donde  ora  el  sol  rayaba, 

Y  celos  le  despedia, 

Y  celos  le  demandaba. 

Dress  of  the  Peasantry. — The  men 
wear  white  felt  caps  enlivened  by  green 
trimming,  and  the  black  velvet  mtmtera 
of  the  Gallegos  is  seen  here  and  there. 
The  maragatos  wear  a  special  dress, 
wide  knee-breeches  called  zaraguelles 
tied  on  the  knee  by  red  cotton  garters, 
large  slouched  hats,  long  brown  clotb 
gaiters  polainas,  leather  jerkins,  jubo- 
netas  with  a  cinturon  of  leather,  em- 
broidered and  coloured  red,  and  a  black 
long  undercoat  in  cloth.  The  wealthy 
inhabitants  wear  almost  the  same  cos- 
tume, but  without  the  jerkin,  and  the 
cloth  is  replaced  by  silk.  The  women 
wear  a  peculiar  dress,  very  picturesque 
also,  and  when  married,  a  sort  of  head- 
gear called  ellcaramiello. 

With  the  exception  of  its  principal 
towns  Asturias  is  very  backward  in 
civilisation,  but  enormously  interesting 
to  the  ecclesiologist,  sportsman  and 
lover  of  fine  scenery.  The  country  is 
quite  Swiss-like,  and  we  recommend  it 
to  enterprising  pedestrians  and  horse- 


men,— though  they  must  be  prepared  to 
rough  it,  as  inns  and  post-houses  are 
things  unknown  in  the  mountains  of 
Asturias.  But  the  unbought  hospitality 
in  the  farms  is  very  great  and  heartfelt. 

The  season  for  travelling  in  Asturias 
is  spring,  summer,  or  not  at  all — except 
on  the  sea-coast,  where  autumn  is  not 
so  much  to  be  feared. 

Asturias  abounds  in  very  rich  mines  ; 
but  through  ignorance,  bad  faith,  often 
neglect,  and  want  of  funds,  Asturian 
mines  have  been  neither  sought  for  nor 
worked  as  they  deserve.  The  subsoil 
of  most  of  the  extent  of  the  province 
consists  of  deep  beds  of  excellent  coal, 
inferior  to  no  other  in  the  world  save 
that  from  Newcastle ;  the  principal  beds 
are  at  Langreo,  Mieres,  Santo  Firme, 
Ferrones,  etc.  A  railroad  carries  the 
ore  from  the  former  to  the  quay  at 
Gijon,  where  they  are  embarked.  Iron 
ore,  copper  ore,  quicksilver,  and  jet  are 
also  largely  exported.  There  is  a  rich 
copper  mine  at  Labiana,  cobalt  at  Pe- 
iiamellera,  tin  at  Salave,  antimony  at 
Cangas  de  Tineo,  quicksilver  at  Po  de 
Cabrales,  Carabia,  etc. 

To  those  coming  from  Madrid  we 
recommend :—  Begin  tour  at  Leon, 
proceed  to  Oviedo,  whence  by  Cangas 
de  Tineo,  Fonsagrada,  Lugo,  riding ; 
there  take  the  rail  to  Corufta,  ride  round 
the  extreme  N.W.  point  by  Ferrol  and 
Vivero  to  Rivadeo,  or  proceed  by  dil. 
or  riding  from  Corufia  to  Rivadeo  by 
Mondonedo,  Castropol,  Aviles,  and  Gi- 
jon (or  back  to  Oviedo),  Infiesto,  Can- 
gas de  Onis,  Covadonga,  Abandares 
(near  is  Penamelera),  S.  Vicente,  San- 
tillana,  Santander.  Tourists  coming 
from  France  may  either  take  the  inverse 
route,  or,  if  pressed  for  time,  limit  their 
excursion  to  a  ride  through  Santillana, 
Covadonga,  and  Oviedo,  returning  either 
by  one  of  the  steamers  that  ply  between 
Gijon  and  Santander,  or  by  rail  from 
Oviedo  to   Leon.      The  churches   are 


28 


AVILA. 


among  the  earliest  known  in  the  Penin- 
sula, and  of  very  high  interest  to  the 
ecclesiologist.  The  style  is  peculiar  to 
Asturias,  and  portions  of  Galicia  and 
Leon.  The  best  examples  are  cited  in 
our  General  Information,  Architecture. 

The  principal  rivers  and  streams, 
abounding  with  salmon,  are  :  at  Sella, 
near  Cangas  de  Onis ;  the  salmon-pools 
of  Fazo  de  Monejo,  near  Abandares ; 
on  the  Deva  river,  the  points  called  Car- 
reras,  Abandones,  and  Arenas.  There 
is  excellent  trout  in  the  Cares,  near 
Mier,  and  in  the  Vernesga,  between 
Oviedo  and  Leon. 

Books  of  Reference. — 1.  'Antigiie- 
dades  concernientes  a  la  Region  de  los 
Asturos  Transmontanos,'  (only  to  the 
10th  century),  by  Risco,  in  the  37th 
vol.  ofhis'EspanaSagrada.'  The  37th, 
38th,  and  39th  vols,  of '  Espafta  Sagrada' 
contain  the  most  accurate,  critical,  and 
extensive  information  that  exists  upon 
Asturias. 

2.  'Historia  Natural  y  M6dica  del 
Frincipado  de  Asturias,'  by  D.  Casal; 
Madrid,  Martin,  1762,  4to.,  well  spoken 
of  by  Sempere  in  his  'Ensayo  de  una 
Bibl.  Espafta  de  Escritores  del  Reinado 
de  Carlos  III.,'  vol.  ii.  p.  152. 


8.  'Coleccion  de  Poesias  Asturianas, 
Oviedo,  1839,  contains  the  best  ex- 
amples of  the  poets  of  the  17th  and 
18th  centuries,  with  a  good  philological 
discourse  on  the  dialect. 

4.  For  the  natural  history  of  this 
region,  see  Bowles'  'Introduccion  a  la 
Historia  Natural,'  etc.,  and  Casal's 
'Description.' 

5.  'Minas  de  Carbon  de  Piedra  de 
Asturias,'  8vo.,  Madrid,  with  a  map  and 
sections,  by  Ezquerra  del  Bayo,  Bauza, 
etc.,  1831. 

6.  'Resena  geognostica  del  Princi- 
pado  de  Asturias, 'by  G.  Schultz,  in  the 
'  Anales  de  Minas,'  1838,  vol.  L 

7.  'Asturias  y  Leon,*  by  J.  M. 
Quadrado,  in  the  series  Espafta,  sus 
Monumemtos  y  Artes  (Barcelona  :  Cor- 
tezo).     A  very  valuable  work. 

8.  '  Notice  sur  les  Fossiles  devoniens 
des  Asturies,'  by  De  Verneuil,  d'Ar- 
chiac,  '  Bulletins  de  la  Societe  Geo- 
logique  de  France,'  1845,  2d  series, 
vol.  ii.  p.  458. 

Also  Parcerisa's'Recuerdosy  Bellezas 
de  Espana ' ;  the  '  Monumentos  Arqui- 
tectonicos ' ;  the  publications  of  the 
Spanish  Folk -Lore  Society  and  the 
annual  official  mining  statistics. 


AVILA. 


Capital  of  province  of  same  name — 
9500  inhab.  ;  bishopric 

Houtes  and  Conveyances.  —  1. 
From  Madrid,  by  rail ;  distance,  50| 
miles ;  time,  3}  hrs.  by  express  ;  5  hrs. 
by  slow  train.  Fares,  1st  cl. ,  Pes.  1 3.15 ; 
2d,  Pes.  9.85.  A  buffet ;  breakfast,  12r. ; 
dinner,  14r. — pretty  good.  Trains  stop 
20  minutes.  It  is  on  the  line  from 
Bayonne  to  Madrid,  by  Burgos  and 
Valladolid.  It  is  also  reached  from 
Escorial  by  rail  direct  27J  miles  ;  time 
about  1 J  hours  by  express,  and  tourists 
may  thus  combine  the  hours  so  as  to 
visit  Avila,  avoiding,   if   possible,  to 


sleep  there,  though  the  inn  is  improved. 
2.  Antiquaries  d  outrance  who  wish  to 
visit  the  antiquities  at  Guisando,  on  the 
way  to  Avila,  can  hire  horses  at  Esco- 
rial and  perform  the  following  tour : — 

Route  a.  Leagues 

Escorial  to  San  Martin  de  Valdeiglesias   a 

Guisando x 

Tiemblo i 

Berraco a 

Avila    .  a 

8 


Or,  Escorial  to  Navas  del  Marques 
Urraca  ■. 


3 
5* 


AVILA. 


29 


And  3,  also  from  or  to  Segovia,  "by 
the  Escorial,  Guadarrama,  San  Ilde- 
fonso,  18  J  leagues.  Very  hard  riding 
over  uninteresting  country.  The  old 
diligence  service  between  Avila  and 
Salamanca  has  been  superseded  by 
the  railway  route  via  Medina  del 
Campo. 

Description  of  2d  Route. — Very 
near  San  Martin  de  Valdeiglesias  is 
the  Bernardine  convent  of  that  name, 
which  was  founded  in  the  12th  century 
by  Alfonso  VII. ,  and  whose  gem,  a  fine 
plateresque  silleria,  the  master-piece  of 
Toledano,  1571,  has  been  removed  to 
the  University  of  Madrid. 

One  league  farther  is  the  convent  of 
San  Geronfmo  de  Guisando,  situated  on 
a  slope,  amid  laurels  and  cypresses,  from 
which  the  view  extends  over  the  Vega 
and  Villa  of  San  Martin.  Its  grottoes 
and  caves  served  as  cells  to  the  Italian 
hermits  who  founded  with  some  Spanish 
brethren  the  Order  of  St.  Gerome.  In 
a  vineyard  at  the  base  of  the  hill  are 
scattered  sculptures  which,  from  their 
apparent,  though  very  rude,  imitation 
of  bulls,  or  rather  boars,  have  been  termed 
los  toros  de  Guisando.  Their  origin  and 
purpose  are  alike  doubtful.  Some 
authorities  regard  them  as  the  ancient 
deities  of  the  natives  ;  more  likely  they 
were  landmarks.  Keltiberian  characters 
of  doubtful  authenticity  have  been  found 
upon  certain  of  these  toros  ;  but,  almost 
illegible  to  old  Pedro  de  Medina,  even 
as  far  back  as  the  16th  century,  they 
are  entirely  so  now.  These  toros  would 
seem  at  one  time  to  have  been  numerous 
in  Central  Spain,  as  old  writers  mention 
a  considerable  number  of  them. 

General  Description.  —  Inns:  Del 
Iugles  ;  Del  Jardin,  both  poor.  Avila, 
which  still  preserves  much  of  the 
Gothic  style  in  its  edifices,  houses,  and 
aspect,  is  one  of  the  most  backward  cities 
in  the  world.  Its  origin,  as  of  all  other 
cities  in  Spain,  is  attributed  to  fabulous 


heroes  and  demi-gods,  and  it  is  curious  to 
seehow  seriously  such  learned  men  as  the 
Benedictine  Luis  Ariez  in  his  grandezas 
de  Avila  (•  Alcala  de  Henares,'  fol.  1607, 
the  MS.  'Historia  de  Avila,'  ascribed  ta 
Bishop  Pelayo  of  Oviedo,  in  the  Biblio- 
teca  National,  G.  112)  could  lose  their 
time  in  writing  volumes  to  prove  which 
of  the  forty-three  Hercules  of  Paganism 
was  king  of  Spain,  and  married  an 
African  princess  called  Abyla,  whose 
son  founded  Avila.  But»by  whomsoever 
the  city  was  founded  and  peopled, 
trustworthy  chronicles  allow  us  to  sup- 
pose that  it  was  repeopled  by  Count 
Don  Remond,  by  order  of  King  Alfonso 
VI.,  his  father-in-law.  Its  massive 
walls  are  still  extant,  and  form  a  fine 
specimen  of  the  military  architecture 
and  engineering  of  the  11th  century, 
some  of  which  are  42  ft.  high  and  14  ft 
thick.  The  gloomy  aspect  of  this  de- 
cayed city  is  increased  by  the  dark 
colour  of  the  granite  employed  in  the 
construction.     The  chief  sight  is 

The  Cathedral,  which  partakes  of  the  castle, 
from  its  massiveness  and  capabilities  of  defence. 
(See  especially  the  exterior  of  the  apse,  with  its 
bold  machicolations,  which  forms  actually  a 
part  of  the  city  walls.)  Commenced  1091,  by 
one  Alvar  Garcia,  a  Navarrese  architect,  the 
cathedral  church  of  San  Salvador  was  ready 
for  consecration  only  sixteen  years  afterwards ; 
but  was  slowly  perfected  during  the  whole  of 
the  12th  and  part  of  the  13th  centuries.  The 
interior,  of  very  pure  Gothic  and  good  propor- 
tions, is  somewhat  marred,  both  in  detail  and 
accessories,  by  bad  late  work  and  restoration. 
The  finest  portion  is  the  exquisite  double  aisle 
round  the  Capilla  Mayor.  The  exterior  western 
facade,  with  its  towers,  crocketed  pediment  and 
ball  enrichment,  is  very  imposing,  as  is  also 
the  facade  of  the  north  transept.  Note  especi- 
ally the  sculpturing  of  the  north  doorway, 
representing  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  the 
Betrayal  in  the  Garden  and  the  Institution 
of  the  Blessed  Sacrament.  The  stained  glass 
throughout  is  very  rich  and  good,  notably  that 
bySantillanaand  Valdivieso  in  the  15th  century 
Capilla  del  Cardinal  opening  out  of  the  E.  side 
of  the  sadly-defaced  cloisters.  The  fine  retablo 
of  the  high  altar  is  late  15th  century,  with  three 
stages  of  paintings  by  Juan  de  Borgona,  Pedro 


s 


30 


AVHJL 


Berruguete  and  Santos  Cruz.  The  solitary 
figures  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  with  the  four 
Evangelists  and  four  doctors  of  the  Church, 
which  occupy  the  lowest  stage,  are  full  of  life 
and  vigorous  conception.  The  more  ambitious 
compositions  above — first  the  Annunciation, 
Nativity,  Transfiguration,  Adoration  of  the 
Magi  and  the  Presentation  in  the  Temple,  and 
then  the  Scourging,  the  Agony,  the  Crucifixion, 
the  Descent  into  Hades  and  the  Resurrection — 
are  not  so  satisfactory.  The  choir-stalls,  by 
Cornielis,  1536-47,  are  elaborately  Renaissance, 
as  are  many  other  fittings  of  the  church.  Ob- 
serve carefully  the  tombs  and  monuments, 
especially  that  of  the  learned  Bishop  of  Avila, 
Alfonso  El  Madrigal  (also  called  '  El  Tostado ' 
and  '  El  Abulense '),  ob.  1455 ;  the  exquisite 
Renaissance  alabaster  monument  to  San  Se- 
gundo  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Crossing  (his  tomb 
is  in  the  hideous  Churrigueresque  chapel  on 
the  S.E.  of  the  apse) ;  the  sepulchre  '  de  los 
imagenes '  in  the  San  Nicolas  chapel,  and  the 
fine  13th  century  monument  in  the  San  Miguel 
chapel.  The  Relicario  should  be  inspected  for 
the  sake  of  Juan  de  Arfe's  classical  silver 
monstrance,  and  a  goodly  array  of  church 
plate.  (Juan  de  Arfe  was  the  best  of  a  great 
Leonese  family  of  artists  of  the  name,  speci- 
mens of  whose  work  may  be  seen  in  most  of 
the  Spanish  cathedrals.) 

The  three  most  remarkable  churches  after 
the  cathedral  are  those  of  San  Vicente,  San 
Pedro,  and  Santo  Tomas.  The  first  stands 
just  outside  the  walls  on  the  road  to  the  station, 
and  is  of  the  finest  Romanesque  of  the  13th 
century.  It  is  dedicated  to  the  three  martyrs 
Vicente,  Sabina  and  Cristeta,  who,  for  dese- 
crating an  altar  of  Jupiter,  were  executed  by 
order  of  the  Emperor  Dacian  at  the  beginning 
of  the  4th  century,  upon  the  rock  which  may 
still  be  seen  in  the  crypt  below  the  Capilla 
Mayor.  Note  carefully  four  points : — the  ad- 
mirable way  in  which,  in  both  interior  and 
exterior  treatment,  the  difficulties  of  a  rapidly 
sloping  side  are  overcome  ;  the  noble  west  end, 
with  its  lofty  double  porch  and  double  portal, 
all  just  sufficiently  and  beautifully  decorated ; 
the  open  cloistering  carried  along  the  outside 
of  the  south  wall,  and  the  13th  century  monu- 
ment to  the  three  martyrs  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
Crossing.  The  late  baldachin  covering  this 
tomb  is  poor,  but  the  life — the  intense  expres- 
sion— of  the  sculptured  representations  of  the 
martyrdom  set  forth  upon  the  panels  of  the 
shrine  is  beyond  all  praise. 

San  Pedro  stands  in  the  Plaza  del  Mercado, 


and  is  similar  in  style  to  San  Vicente,  but  of 
rougher  workmanship.  Santo  Tomas  lies  half 
a  mile  outside  of  the  city  on  the  S.E.  Founded 
148a  by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  at  the  insti- 
gation of  the  Inquisitor  Torquemada,  the 
monasteiy  became  a  favourite  residence  of  the 
monarchs,  and  the  educational  home  of  their 
only  son,  Prince  Juan.  It  has  lately  been 
restored,  and  handed  over  to  the  Dominicans 
for  seminarial  purposes.  Both  church  and 
cloisters  are  worth  seeing.  The  former  is  of 
very  impressive  Gothic,  with  clever  arrange- 
ment of  light  and  shade.  Note  the  carved 
silleria  of  the  choir  (by  Cornielis),  and  the 
paintings  of  the  retablo  (perhaps  by  Fernando 
Gallegos),  but  especially  the  glorious  Renais- 
sance tomb  of  Prince  Juan,  before  the  high 
altar,  together  with  that  of  his  attendants, 
Juan  de  Avila  and  Juana  Velazquez,  in  a 
chapel  on  the  north  side  of  the  nave.  Prince 
Juan's  tomb  is  by  Domenico  El  Fiorentino, 
and  is  one  of  the  finest  pieces  of  Renaissance 
work  in  the  world. 

Visit  also  the  small  Romanesque  church  of 
San  Segundo,  situated  at  the  N.W.  angle  of 
the  city,  near  the  Adaja  bridge,  upon  the  spot 
where  the  bishop -saint  is  said  to  have  cast 
down  a  recalcitrant  Moor  from  the  turret 
above  (the  effigy  of  the  bishop,  by  Berruguete, 
is  noteworthy) ;  also  the  churches  of  San 
Esteban,  San  Andres  and  Mosen  Rubi — with 
its  toros  de  Gidsando — and  the  quaint  old 
houses  of  the  Condes  Polentinos,  Onate  and 
'Petrus  Avila.*  Finally,  a  walk  through  the 
Plaza  del  Mercado  on  a  market-day — for  the 
sake  of  its  groups  of  country-folk  in  character- 
istic costume — the  circuit  of  the  city  walls,  and 
a  visit  to  the  Santa  Casa,  close  by  the  S.W. 
gate,  should  on  no  account  be  omitted.  The 
latter,  now  only  a  gaudily  decorated  convent- 
church,  is  the  birthplace  of  the  Santa  Teresa 
de  Jesus  to  whom  Avila  owes  its  greatest 
glory,  and  whose  records  and  religious  houses 
may  here  be  met  with  more  plentifully  than  in 
any  other  part  of  Spain.  The  strange  life  of 
the  saint  is  well  known — her  childlike  gracious- 
ness  and  fervent  devotion,  her  innumerable 
visions  and  exalted  mysticism,  her  supremely 
patient  work  and  final  triumphing.  The 
memorials  of  one  who  in  a  ceaseless  fight  of 
forty -seven  years  conquered  self,  conquered 
suffering,  conquered  persecution  and  conquered 
Time,  would  alone  call  for  a  visit  to  Avila,  even 
if  the  city  of  itself  were  not  a  place  of  deep 
interest  and  usefullest  study. 


BALEARIC  ISLANDS.    See  PALMA. 
BADAJOZ.    See  p.  536. 


1 

J 


MADRID  &  BILBAO  to  ZARAGOZA,LERIDA<fc  BARCELONA. 


■Pahlishea  Vy  X&  £  BlaucK.  I.nutiam 
* 


J 


31 


BARCELONA. 


Capital  of  province  of  same  Dame,  for- 
merly of  Cataluna(see  latter), residence  of 
Capitan-General  of  Cataluna  ;  bishop's 
see,  suffragan  of  Archbishop  of  Tarra- 
gona.    Pop.,  with  suburbs,  512,000. 

Routes  and  Conveyances.  —  1st.  The 
direct  route  of  the  'M.Z.A.'  in  com- 
bination with  the  'T.B.F.,'  vid  Zara- 
goza,  Mora,  Reus  and  Villanueva : 
distance,  196  m.  :  fares,  1st  cl.,  Pes. 
78.80;  2d  cl.,  Pes.  59.10;  time,  22 
hrs.  by  slow  train,  16 J  by  tri- weekly 
exp.  Scenery  between  Hijar  and  Reus, 
along  the  banks  of  the  Ebro  (see  esp. 
Caspe,  Flix,  and  Mora),  and  again  be- 
tween Reus  and  Sitjes,  very  fine.  No 
towns  of  great  interest  between  Zara- 
goza  and  Reus.  Good  buffet  {table 
dChtite)  at  Mora.  (For  description  of 
route  as  far  as  Zaragoza  see  Madrid.) 

2d.  By  rail  to  Zaragoza  as  above,  and 
thence  by  the  line  north  of  the  Ebro,  a 
route  to  be  taken  for  the  sake  of  some  in- 
teresting stopping-places.  Buffets  (fair) 
*t  L6rida  and  Manresa.  The  country 
is  not  very  interesting.  The  principal 
features  are,  great  scarcity  of  trees,  ex- 
cept some  olives  here  and  there ;  scarcity 
of  villages  and  towns  on  the  way ;  plains 
very  extensive,  and  some  hills,  on  slopes 
of  which  vines  are  cultivated.  At  Villa- 
nueva the  Gallego  is  seen  on  the  right. 
At  Zuera  it  is  crossed  on  a  bridge. 
Tardienta,  reached  about  two  hours 
after  leaving  Zaragoza.  Branch  rail 
from  here  to  Huesca,  9(  m.,  from  whence 
diL  to  Barbastro,  8  leagues,  from 
which  one  may  return  to  take  up  R.  line 
from  Zaragoza  to  Barcelona  at  the  station 
of  Monzon.  Huesca  is  an  interesting 
excursion  for  ecclesiologists,  as  the  ca- 
thedral is  fine.  To  those  who  visit 
Huesca  and  Barbastro,  see  end  of  Zara- 
goza. At  one  hour's  ride  from  the 
station  of  Sarinena  is  a  fine  Carthusian 


convent  of  good  style ;  the  pictures 
once  here  have  been  taken  to  Huesca 
and  to  Sarifiena,  and  a  fine  Christ  to 
the  village  of  Lanaja.  Not  far  from  it 
the  country  is  much  broken  up,  as  if  by 
convulsions,  and  here  and  there  appear 
lofty  masses  of  red  earth  not  unlike 
some  mouldering  Titanic  fortresses,  or 
ruins  of  castles,  worthy  of  the  pencil 
of  Salvator  Rosa.  Sclgua.  —  Branch 
line  to  Barbastro,  6}  miles.  Monzon. 
— Conveyances  to  Barbastro  8J  miles. 
The  Cinca  river,  which  passes  here, 
divides  Aragon  from  Cataluila.  The 
castle,  on  a  height,  is  very  old  ;  was 
enlarged  by  Templars  in  1143,  to  whom 
it  was  granted  by  Count  Ramon  Ber- 
enguer.  The  ruins  on  another  height 
close  by  are  ascribed  to  the  Romans. 

L&rida  (see  Tarragona  from  Zaragoza). 
Cap.  of  Lenda.  Pop.  30,000.  Hotels, 
Fonda  de  JSspana,  Fonda  Suiza,  fair. 
The  Segre  is  crossed  by  a  fine  bridge. 
Bellpuig,  about  £  hr.  from  L^rida. 
This  was  the  solar  or  family  mansion 
of  the  Anglesolas,  whose  castle  crowns 
a  hill.  Close  to  it  is  the  celebrated 
Franciscan  convent,  now  deserted  and 
going  to  utter  ruin.  The  exterior 
is  indifferent.  It  was  founded  in 
the  16th  century  by  Don  Ramon  de 
Cardona,  Viceroy  of  Naples.  The 
gem  of  it  is  the  cloisters,  which  are 
formed  by  three  galleries ;  the  two 
lower  ones  belong  to  the  decline  of 
Gothic,  and  the  third  is  classical.  The 
pillars  of  the  second  gallery,  which 
presents  a  somewhat  strange  appearance, 
are  not  unlike  those  of  the  Lonja  of 
Valencia,  and  the  capitals  are  orna- 
mented with  foliage,  fruit,  and  figures. 
The  spiral  staircase  leading  from  the 
cloister  to  the  church  is  of  great  merit, 
from  its  well-combined  proportions. 

In  this  church,  and  on  one  side  of  the 
altar,   is  a  very  fine  mausoleum,  the 


32 


BARCELONA —  ROUTES. 


tomb  of  the  founder.  The  style  is 
classic.  The  relievi  representing  scenes 
from  his  Life  in  Italy,  Africa,  etc.  ; 
genii,  medallions,  allegorical  figures, 
and  all  other  such  ornament  appropriate 
to  this  style  appear  well  executed.  The 
relievi  will  interest  the  artist  as  pre- 
senting a  rich  collection  of  the  military 
costumes  worn  at  the  beginning  of  the 
16th  century.  The  Virgin  and  child 
above  are  of  bad  effect.  The  sarco- 
phagus is  placed  within  a  deep  recessed 
niche,  the  external  arch  of  which  is 
supported  by  caryatatides  with  dolorous 
countenances.  The  relievo  on  the  back 
of  the  niche  represents  a  Virgin  and 
dead  Christ,  with  the  Magdalen  and 
angels.  The  tomb  is  of  most  elegant 
design.  Upon  a  broad  pedestal  are  two 
sirens  kneeling.  The  basement  is  sculp- 
tured with  finely  modelled  horses  and 
marine  monsters.  On  the  central  front 
of  the  urn  are  sculptured  mythological 
subjects,  fine  in  composition,  well 
grouped,  and  with  movement  and  life. 
The  lying  effigy,  armed  cap-a-pie,  is 
holding  a  staff.  The  soldier's  sword,  a 
present  from  Julius  II.,  was  sacrilegiously 
carried  off  by  the  French.  Ponz,  Celles, 
and  other  sure  connoisseurs,  consider 
this  monument  as  a  very  fine  specimen 
of  architectural  ornamentation.  There 
is  an  excessive  profusion  of  details, 
worked  out  to  a  Chinese  scrupulosity 
on  the  helmets,  escutcheons,  vases,  etc. ; 
the  figures  are  natural,  graceful,  pleas- 
ing, and  well  executed.  This  magnificent 
in  meirwriam  on  stone  was  erected  by 
the  wife  of  Ramon  de  Cardona.  It  is 
of  Carrara  marble  ;  the  sculptor,  Juan 
Kolano. 

Manresa  (Buffet.  Inn :  F.  de  Santo 
Domingo),  most  picturesquely  situated 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Cardoner  ;  pop. 
21 , 000.  One  of  the  largest  manufactur- 
ing cities  in  Oataluna.  Cloth,  cotton 
weaving,  and  distilling  are  the  principal 
fabrics.     The  Colegiata  is  interesting, 


of  Gothic  architecture,  with  some  fine 
painted  glass.  The  Cueva  de  San 
IgnadOy  where  San  Ignacio  de  Loyola, 
the  founder  of  the  Order  of  Jesuits, 
wrote  his  book  and  did  penance,  may 
be  visited.  Diligence  daily  to  salt 
mines  of  Cardona,  belonging  to  Duke 
of  Medinaceli.  To  visit  them  obtain  an 
order  from  his  steward  at  Cardona. 
The  mine  is  a  mountain  of  salt,  500 
feet  high,  and  a  league  in  circumference. 
Some  of  the  grottoes  are  most  effective. 
Tarrasa,  pop.  15,000;  manufactories  of 
cloth,  paper,  woollens.  Sabadelltip(yp. 
20,000.  One  of  the  wealthiest  and 
most  manufacturing  cities  in  Catalufia. 
Something  like  120  cloth  factories  and 
cotton  mills,  with  an  annual  produce 
reaching  £550,000.  Busy,  eager  life, 
full  of  enterprise  and  with  a  daily  in- 
creasing trade.  The  sea  shortly  after 
appears  on  the  left,  and  Barcelona  is 
reached. 

3d.  From  Bayonne :  A,  by  Irun 
and  Pamplona  (see  Madrid) ;  B,  by  the 
valley  of  Baztan,  Pamplona,  and  Zara- 
goza  (no  longer  any  public  conveyance). 

4th.  From  Perpignan  via  Gerona: 
By  llailimy  throughout.  The  fron- 
tier lies  between  the  stations  Cerbere 
(French)  and  Port  Bou  (Spanish). 
Distance,  Barcelona,  134  miles  south- 
west. Perpignan  to  Port  Bou,  5  trains 
daily,  in  1  hr.  (express) ;  here  40  m. 
stoppage;  buffet.  To  Gerona,  2  hrs. 
(express) ;  Gerona  to  Barcelona,  2J  hrs. : 
in  all  about  4£  hrs.  Daily  expresses 
from  Paris  to  Barcelona  through  Per- 
pignan, in  24  hrs. 

Perpignan.  —  Hotels  :  De  France  ; 
I  De  l'Europe ;  Grand  Hotel ;  Nord  et 
Petit  Paris.  Coffee-house :  Cafe*  Fran- 
cais.  This  is  a  chief  lieu  of  the  Pyr£- 
n&s  Orientales,  28,360  inhab.  It  is  a 
dull  and  backward  town,  with  little  or 
nothing  to  interest  the  tourist,  save 
perhaps  the  Citadelle,  which  was  ori- 
ginally begun  by  the  kings  of  Aragon. 


BARCELONA — ROUTES. 


33 


and  considerably  strengthened  by 
Charles  Y.  The  river  Tet  crosses  the 
city.  Fine  church  of  San  Juan  ;  this 
with  the  Exchange,  Library,  Picture 
Gallery,  Maison  de  Ville,  etc.,  with 
the  more  interesting  Botanical  Gardens, 
constitute  the  principal  sights.  BaiU 
way  to  Barcelona.  On  leaving  the  city 
to  the  left,  observe  the  arches  of  an 
aqueduct  made  by  a  king  of  Majorca, 
to  bring  the  waters  of  the  Tet  to  the 
royal  palace.  The  river  Canterane  is 
then  crossed ;  farther  on  that  of  the 
Reart,  with  ruins  of  a  castle  on  left 

ELNR,  8  m.  (pop.  2764).  A  village 
with  a  cathedral  of  eleventh  century,  on 
an  eminence  above  the  river  Tech.  Han- 
nibal encamped  under  its  walls. 

ARGELESSUR-MER,  13}  m.  (pop. 
2833).  In  the  midst  of  a  fertile  plain. 
The  line  now  approaches  the  sea,  and 
passes  through  a  promontory  by  a  tunnel 
610  yards  long  to 

COLLIOURE,  17  m.  (pop.  3409).  A 
fishing- village  hemmed  in  between  cliffs. 
On  the  summit  of  the  hill  behind  is 
Fort  St  Elmo.  Very  good  Rousillon 
wine  is  grown  in  the  neighbourhood. 

PORT  VENDEES,  18  m.  (pop.  2040). 
A  port  with  docks  and  quays.  The 
telegraph  cable  to  Algiers  commences 
here.    Sardines  are  caught  and  cured. 

BANYULSSUR-MER,  21  m.  (pop.  3609). 
Hotels:  Pujol  and  Grand  HoteL  A 
fishing -village  frequented  in  summer 
by  bathers.  It  has  an  ancient  church, 
St  Jean  d'Amont,  11th  cent  The 
wine  Abbe"  Roux,  used  in  the  Mass,  is 
grown  here.  The  winter  is  mild,  dry, 
and  sedative,  and  the  place  is  well 
suited  for  people  out  of  health.  Sardine 
'fishery. 


cerbere,  25£  m*  French  custom- 
house station.  Money  may  be  changed 
here.     Buffet 

PORT-BOU,  264  m-  Spanish  custom- 
house station,  and  Madrid  time — 25 
minutes  behind  Paris.  Buffet  The 
village  lies  in  a  picturesque  bay  be- 
low the  station. 

One  hour  at  least  is  lost  here  in  ex- 
amining the  luggage,  a  process  that 
should  be  attended  to  before  entering 
the  restaurant  A  fair  exchange  office 
in  the  station. 

Resuming  the  journey  after  passing, 
among  other  small  stations,  Llansa,  a 
small  port,  we  arrive  (16  miles  from 
Port  Bou)  at 

Figueras. — Hotels:  Dessaya,  Fonda 
del  Comercio — 13,000  inhab.  A  de- 
cayed old  town,  with  no  fine  monu- 
ments ;  the  Citadelle  is  the  most  im- 
portant one  in  Catalufia,  and  is  con- 
sidered by  foreign  as  well  as  Spanish 
engineers  as  almost  impregnable,  if 
such  a  thing  is  possible  in  the  days  of 
Armstrong  and  Whitworth.  The  city 
is  situated  in  a  plain  where  the  olive 
now  grows,  but  where  formerly  rice 
was  cultivated.  The  castle  of  San 
Fernando,  crowning  the  height,  was 
erected  by  Ferdinand  VI.  and  enlarged 
by  Charles  III.  It  is  built  in  the  rock, 
and  its  shape  is  an  irregular  pentagon. 
It  was  the  work  of  the  military  engi- 
neer Cermino.  The  circumference  is 
7380  feet  (about)  ;  its  length,  N.  to  S., 
3090;  breadth,  E.  to  W.,  1938.  Its 
magazines  and  arsenals  (bomb-proof), 
barracks  for  20,000  men,  and  stables 
for  500  horses,  are  all  wonderfully  con- 
trived. The  water-cisterns  are  inex- 
haustible. The  weakest  point  is  the 
bastion  of  San  Roque,  close  to  the 
principal  entrance,  and  the  unfinished 
cabalUro  of  Santa  Barbara,  which  latter 
leaves    the    fortress    exposed    to   the 


34 


BARCELONA — ROUTES. 


heights  of  Mounts  Sana,  La  Perdera, 
Avinonet,  and  Sierra  Blanca.  It  is 
visited  by  malignant  fevers  yearly  in 
summer  and  autumn.  These  are  caused 
by  stagnant  ponds  and  marshes  in  the 
plains  below,  which  might  easily  be 
removed.  The  cost  of  this  fortress 
amounted  to  £285,000.  Its  situation 
renders  it  the  key  of  the  frontier.  In 
1794  it  was  cowardly  surrendered  to 
the  French  by  Andres  Torres,  before  a 
single  shot  had  been  fired.  On  March 
18,  1808,  this  citadel  was  taken  by 
surprise  by  the  French  under  General 
Duhesme,  who  introduced  200  soldiers 
under  a  false  pretext.  It  was  recap- 
tured on  April  10,  1811,  by  Rovira,  a 
doctor  in  theology,  also  bj  surprise, 
and  with  a  handful  of  men.  In  May 
of  the  same  year  it  was  retaken  by  the 
French  General,  Baraguay  d'Hilliers, 
at  the  head  of  4000  men.  The  view 
from  the  summit  is  extensive.  For 
permit,  apply  to  Seflor  Gobernador  de 
la  Plaza. 

A  curious  procession  takes  place  at 
Figueras  on  the  last  Monday  in  May  or 
the  first  in  June.  It  is  called  Profas<5 
de  la  Tramontana,  a  name  given  to  the 
N.  wind,  which  is  to  be  compared  only 
to  the  Brighton  easterly  in  violence 
and  continuity.  This  procession,  which 
dates  1612,  is  rather  a  pilgrimage  to 
the  church  of  N.  Sta.  de  Requesens, 
which  is  in  the  mountains  close  by, 
and  lasts  three  days.  Bascara,  on  a 
hill,  and  close  to  the  river  Fluvia. 
Here  it  was  that  on  March  21,  1814, 
King  Ferdinand  VII.  was  restored  to 
his  kingdom  after  his  captivity  at 
Valencay,  and  escorted  hither  by 
Suchet's  army. 

Gerona.  65  m.  from  Barcelona. — 
Capital  of  the  province  of  Gerona  and 
part  of  Cataluna.  The  population 
numbers  17,149  inhabitants.  Irm: 
Fonda  ltaliana ;  indifferent,  but  being 
improved. 


This  town  is  built  upon  a  hill,  the 
slopes  of  which  extend  to  the  Vega, 
and  form  a  barrio  called  El  MarcadaL 
The  Ona  crosses  it,  and  the  three-arch 
bridge  over  it  is  picturesque  from  a 
distance,  as  well  as  the  wooden  bal- 
conies looking  upon  the  river,  and  full 
of  flower-pots.  It  is  a  very  old  and 
quaint  city,  a  desolate,  silent  place, 
without  trade,  manufactures,  books,  or 
any  monument  worthy  of  a  lengthened 
visit,  if  we  except  the  very  interesting 
cathedral,  one  of  the  best  examples  of 
Catalonian  style.  It  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  by  the  Bracati  Celts 
about  930  B.C.,  and  was  never  important 
under  either  Goths  or  Arabs.  The 
eldest  sons  of  the  kings  of  Aragon  were 
styled  Marquises  of  Gerona ;  and  this 
predilection,  by  making  this  city  the 
habitual  residence  and  court  of  those 
princes,  caused  its  depopulation  and 
ruin  by  the  many  sieges  it  had  to 
undergo.  In  1285  it  was  besieged  by 
the  king  of  France,  Philippe  le  Hardi, 
when  the  garrison,  being  starved  out, 
surrendered.  This  fact  is  recorded  in 
Catalan  over  the  gate  to  the  S.  of  the 
city,  called  Puerta  de  la  Carcel.  The 
inscription  states  that  the  French  took 
it  not  '  per  forsa,  mes  per  fam.' 

Cathedral  of  Oerona. — The  ascent 
to  this  building  is  by  a  wide  flight  of 
steps,  forming  an  imposing  approach, 
worthy  of  a  larger  and  handsomer 
church.  The  facade  is  a  plain  wall, 
with  a  front  composed  of  three  stages 
that  belong  to  the  pseudo-classic  style  ; 
the  whole  most  indifferent  In  the 
centre  of  the  facade  is  a  circular  rose- 
window,  with  statues  of  Hope,  Faith, 
and  Charity.  This  work,  with  its 
niches,  statuettes,  and  other  details, 
dates  1733.  Only  one  of  the  two  in- 
tended towers  exists,  and  is  heavy  and 
incongruous.  The  primitive  cathedral 
was  very  ancient,  and  the  Moors  con- ' 
verted  it  into  a  mosque.    When  Ludovic 


BARCELONA — ROUTES. 


35 


Pins  recaptured  the  city  it  was  restored 
to  its  original  use.  It  was  so  ruinous 
in  the  11th  century  that  Bishop  Pedro 
Roger  and  his  sister,  the  Countess 
Ermesinda,  undertook  to  rebuild  it  at 
their  expense,  and  in  1038  the  new 
church  was  consecrated.  This  second 
one  was  pulled  down  also,  and  left  no 
vestiges  behind  save  the  cloisters  and 
the  belfry  ;  the  chapter  resolved  to  re- 
build it  at  their  own  expense.  The 
extremity  of  the  edifice  was  begun  in 
1316 ;  the  architect  is  supposed  to  have 
been  Enrique  of  Narbonne,  whose  name 
is  found  as  maestro  de  obras  in  the 
'Liber  Not^onim'  (archives  of  the 
cathedral  of  Gerona)  as  far  back  as 
1320.  His  successor  was  Jaime  de 
Favariis,  also  from  Narbonne.  He  was 
succeeded  by  Argenter,  who,  it  is  be- 
lieved, completed  this  portion  of  the 
church  in  1346.  At  this  time  the 
original  plan  of  prolonging  the  three 
naves  was  abandoned.  Several  of  the 
most  celebrated  maestros  mayores  of 
Spain  were  called  to  a  junta,  and  their 
opinion  asked  as  to  the  expediency  of 
continuing  the  work  with  one  or  more 
naves  ;  the  plan  of  one  single  nave  pro- 
posed by  Guillelmo  Boffiz  was  adopted, 
and  the  work  completed  between  1417 
and  1579. 

The  style  is  Gothic ;  the  nave  is  73 
ft.  wide ;  the  arches  are  of  an  elegant 
ogival,  with  a  rose-window  of  stained 
glass  over  each,  which  is  novel  and  of 
pleasing  effect.  The  lateral  naves  meet 
and  blend  into  one  behind  the  presby- 
tery, which  is  surrounded  by  pillars  in 
shape  of  a  semicircle,  and  support  the 
cupola.  The  arches  are  pointed ;  the 
choir  is  indifferent ;  the  high  altar  be- 
longed to  the  former  church,  dates  11th 
century,  and  is  original  as  to  form. 
The  frontal  is  alabaster,  but  cannot  be 
seen,  as  it  is  all  over  concealed  under  a 
silver  chapa,  except  in  the  front,  which 
ia  covered  with  gold.    In  the  centre  are 


some  figures  of  saints,  and  in  a  niche  a 
Virgin  and  Child.  All  of  it  is  dotted 
with  stones  that  shine  like  precious 
stones.  There  are,  besides,  several  other 
figures  of  prophets,  apostles,  etc.  The 
retablo  is  a  mass  of  silver  gilt,  and 
forms  three  stages  divided  into  com- 
partments, with  figures  and  a  relievo 
representation ;  the  lower  stage  has 
saints  and  two  bishops  at  the  sides ; 
the  second,  scenes  from  the  life  of 
Christ ;  the  third,  scenes  from  life  of 
the  Virgin.  The  whole  is  crowned 
with  statues,  silver  gilt,  of  the  Virgin, 
St.  Narcissus,  and  St.  FeUse.  Over 
this  retablo  is  a  baldachin  or  dais  of 
silver,  which  rests  upon  four  very  thin 
pillars  covered  with  silver  also.  This  fine 
retablo  is  by  Pedro  Renes  ;  the  balda- 
chin is  of  the  14th  century.  On  the  left 
of  the  H.  Chapel,  or  apse,  is  a  marble 
tomb  of  Bishop  Berenguer,  ob.  1408. 
It  is  Gothic,  and  has  finely-executed 
niches  and  figures.  Between  the  chapels 
of  Corpus  Christi  and  San  Juan  is  a  fine 
Gothic  tomb,  of  the  14th  century,  of 
the  great  benefactress  of  the  cathedral, 
Countess  Ermesinda,  who  was  married 
990  to  Count  Ramon  Borrell  III.,  and 
was  celebrated  for  her  virtue,  great 
beauty,  and  wisdom  in  political  affairs ; 
ob.  1057.  In  the  chapel  of  San  Pablo, 
which  is  the  first  to  the  left  on  entering 
by  the  principal  door,  is  another  fine 
sepulchre  of  Bishop  Bernado  de  Pau, 
ob.  1547.  There  is  a  great  profusion 
of  details,  rendered  most  minutely, 
and  divided  into  horizontal  compart- 
ments, filled  with  numberless  figures ; 
dates  15th  century.  Over  the  door  of 
the  sacristy  is  the  tomb  of  Count 
Ramon  Berenguer  II.,  cap  de  estopa, 
with  his  effigy  upon  it.  It  is  of  the 
end  of  the  14th  century.  The  cloisters 
are  anterior  to  the  church,  and  Byzan- 
tine ;  they  are  large  with  a  heavy  low 
roof.  The  capitals  of  the  pillars  are 
very  elaborately  carved  and  deserve 


36 


BARCELONA — ROUTES. 


very  careful  study.  The  patio  is  in- 
different and  weedy ;  the  S.  door,  called 
de  los  Apostoles,  has  slender  pillars 
richly  sculptured,  and  of  the  coarse 
execution  characteristic  of  the  Byzan- 
tine, although  here  and  there  the  Gothic 
may  be  seen  already  dawning;  the 
arches  have  the  best  specimen  of 
sculpture  in  the  cathedral ;  the  statues 
of  the  Apostles  are  inferior  to  the  leaf 
ornamentation — date  1458.  The  cathe- 
dral was  finished  by  one  Pedro  Costa, 
an  R.A.  of  S.  Fernando,  ob.  1761, 
who  also  made  the  Grssco-Roman  front 
of  the  edifice.  The  Sacristy  has  some 
fine  church  plate,  and  several  highly 
interesting  MSS.,  richly  illuminated. 

The  Colegiata  de  San  Feliu,  dating 
from  the  14th  century  (see  especially  the 
southern  porch),  is  rendered  a  conspicu- 
ous object  by  its  remarkable  western 
belfry  tower.  This  is  divided  into  three 
stages,  the  spire  dating  only  from  the 
16th  century,  but  the  lower  portions 
being  perhaps  150  years  older.  In  1581 
it  was  struck  by  lightning  and  seriously 
damaged,  but  has  been  since  repaired  ; 
the  facade  of  the  church  is  of  the  18th 
century.  Thegeneral  and  original  design 
of  the  church  is  Byzantine  ;  it  consists 
of  nave  and  aisles,  transepts,  apse  and 
apsidal  chapels ;  the  pillars  are  heavy 
and  almost  shapeless.  The  principal 
object  of  interest  is  the  sepulchre  of  San 
Felice  (or  St.  Felix).  It  is  of  the  13th 
century.  The  relievi  on  it,  with  per- 
sonages in  the  Roman  dress,  represent 
scenes  from  the  saint's  life.  There  are 
two  bassi-  relievi,  said  to  be  Roman 
work  ;  one  represents  a  lion-hunt,  and 
the  other  'Night/  with  the  choir  of 
Hours,  and  the  Graces,  etc.,  well  pre- 
served, but  of  little  merit. 

See  also  the  archaic  and  interesting  church 
of  San  Pedro  de  los  Galligans  (Galli  Cantio) 
lying  a  little  to  the  N.  W.  of  the  cathedral,  and 
close  by  San  Feliu.  It  is  of  very  early  Roman- 
esque, with  considerable  portions  dating  back 
certainly  to  the  ioth  century.    Note  especially 


the  W.  doorway,  and  the  rose  window  above ', 
also  the  E.  end,  built  partly  of  volcanic  scoriae, 
and  all  the  line  of  city  wall  of  which  the  apse 
forms  actually  a  section.  In  the  cloisters  is 
now  placed  the  Museo  Provincial,  which  con- 
tains some  fine  early  sarcophagi,  fragments  of 
Roman  and  other  early  sculpture,  and  a  number 
of  relics  of  the  sieges  of  1808  and  1809,  when 
Gerona  defended  herself  vainly  against  over- 
whelming forces  of  the  French  with  deeds  oi 
heroism  and  amid  scenes  of  horror  rivalling 
those  of  the  great  siege  of  Zaragoza.  Look 
also  at  the  now  desecrated  12th  century  church 
of  San  Daniel  (so  called),  close  to  San  Pedro ; 
at  the  old  houses  in  the  cathedral  plaza  and 
the  Plaza  de  las  Coles,  and  at  the  windows  of 
the  Fonda  de  Espafia. 

Leaving  Gerona,  the  railway  branches 
at  the  station  of  Empalme.  A.  One 
line  goes  to  Barcelona  by  the  sea-coast, 
crossing  Arenys  and  Matard,  and  is 
called  Linea  de  Matar6  and  del  Litoral ; 
time  about  4  hrs.  to  4J  hrs.  ;  three 
trains  a-day;  fares,  1st  cl.,  pes.  13; 
2d  cl.,  pes.  9.80 ;  3d  cl.,  pes.  6.  It 
is  the  pleasanter  of  the  two,  as  it  fol- 
lows the  charming  Mediterranean  coast; 
the  cool  sea-breeze  tempering  the  heat 
in  summer,  and  the  many  white  lateen 
sails  and  steamers  gladdening  the  eye. 

Arenys  de  Mar,  pronounced  Arens  in 
Catalan  (i.e.  sea-sand),  is  a  small  and 
pretty  town  of  some  5000  inhab., 
situated  on  the  Mediterranean,  at  the 
foot  of  some  hills  clothed  with  trees, 
and  studded  with  gardens,  orange- 
groves,  and  gay  looking  torres  ;  above 
rises  Arenys  de  Munt.  Here  are  several 
linen,  lace,  and  blonde  manufactories ; 
and  there  is  a  considerable  trade  in 
brandies  and  soap,  "ce  luxe  de  la 
parfumerie  moderne."  Much  of  the 
business  of  the  place,  however,  has  been 
drawn  away  to  the  large  Barcelona 
centre  and  its  dependencies  —  Bada- 
lona,  Ians,  San  Martin,  etc.  There  is 
good  bathing  in  the  summer ;  the  en- 
virons are  pleasant,  and  excursions  may 
be  made  to  the  hermitages  del  Cal- 
vario  and  el  Remedio.  A  tunnel  some 
600   ft.    long   is   entered   on   leaving 


BARCELONA — ROUTES. 


37 


Arenys.  On  the  right  we  see  the  large 
and  new  mineral  establecimiento,  called 
'Bafios  de  Tito/  excellent  in  diseases 
of  the  skin  and  rheumatism.  The 
small  river  of  Caldetas  is  traversed. 
To  right,  on  a  height,  stands  the  pic- 
turesque Torre  de  los  EncantadoB,  con- 
sisting of  some  ill-kept-up  fortifications. 
Caldetas,  631  inhab.,  is  a  pretty,  clean, 
indifferent  hamlet,  with  some  good 
thermal  springs ;  close  to  it,  on  a  height, 
stands  the  mined  castle  of  Rocaberti, 
the  name  of  which  is  associated  with 
several  romanesque  legends  of  border 
life  and  piratical  inroads  of  Algerines, 
etc  The  Llevaneras  is  crossed ;  on  a 
height  rises  the  ancient  castle  of  Nofre 
Arnau,  now  in  ruins. 

Matard,  pop.  20,600.  Inns:  De 
Francia;  De  Monserrat.  The  name 
is  derived  from  San  Miguel  de  Mata ; 
the  armorial  bearings  being  or  4  bars 
gules,  a  hand  holding  a  sprig  (Mata), 
with  the  word  R6.  This  very  thriv- 
ing, busy,  manufacturing  town  is 
divided  into  two  portions;  the  older, 
La  Ciudad  Vieja,  occupies  a  hill,  and 
preserves  its  ancient  character,  in  its 
gates,  sombre  narrow  streets,  etc.  ;  the 
modern  part  extends  down  to  the  sea, 
on  the  slopes  of  that  same  hill,  the 
streets  being  wide,  the  houses  lofty, 
clean,  and  many  elegantly  furnished, 
well  built,  and  painted  outside  and  in 
with  dauby  but  effective  frescoes.  Visit 
the  parish  church  for  its  silleria,  and  the 
six  fine  pictures  by  Viladomat  (chapel 
de  los  Dolores),  representing  Passion  of 
Christ.  '  Jesus  bearing  the  Cross, '  has 
been  compared  by  connoisseurs  to 
Murillo's  best  style.  There  are  some 
others  by  Montana.  There  is  a  pretty 
theatre,  an  admirably  well-organised 
'Colegio  de  Cataluna,'  a  large  and 
regular  Flaza  de  la  Constitucion,  etc. 
The  town  was  cruelly  sacked  in  1808 
by  the  Franco-Italian  division  under 
Lecchi,  and  it  was  saved  from  being  set 


on  fire  by  the  intercession  of  Don  Felix 
Guarro,  who  entreated  the  general  to 
spare  the  town.  Had  he  lived  in  the 
13th  or  14th  century  he  would  have 
been  canonised  by  the  militant  Church, 
just  as  his  city  was  by  the  triumphant 
French  army ;  as  it  was,  the  merciful 
conquerors  managed  to  carry  away  some 
ffrs.  195,000  as  a  souvenir.  On  leaving 
the  city,  the  traveller  sees  on  a  hill  to 
the  right  the  ruins  of  the  Moorish  tower 
Borriach,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  the 
mineral  spring  of  Argentona.  The 
waters  are  carbonated,  and  most  effica- 
cious in  the  treatment  of  nervous  com- 
plaints. (Conveyance  by  tartanas,  in 
f  hr.,  from  station  of  Matard  during  the 
temporada.)  All  the  district  between 
this  and  V ilasar  produces  beautiful  roses 
and  strawberries,  etc.,  which  are  sent 
to  Barcelona. 

On  leaving  the  station  of  Vilasar,  and 
not  far  from  several  Moorish  atalayas  or 
watch-towers  on  same  hills,  observe 
the  castle  of  Vilasar,  one  of  the  best 
preserved  examples  of  mediaeval  palatial 
fortresses  in  Cataluna.  The  railway 
continues  to  follow  the  seaboard,  stud- 
ded with  small,  pretty,  and  thriving 
hamlets.  On  leaving  Masnou,  the 
Aleya  is  crossed,  and  a  tunnel  entered, 
some  420  ft.  long.  At  Mongat,  observe 
on  the  hill  the  castle  of  that  name, 
which  is  celebrated  for  the  heoric  re- 
sistance of  its  few  inhabitants  in  1808 
against  the  whole  of  Lecchi's  division, 
numbering  eight  guns  of  heavy  calibre. 
The  siege  lasted  four  days — it  fell  at 
last,  and  all  its  brave  inmates  were  cut 
down  one  after  the  other. 

One  hour  off  stand  the  ruins  of  the 
Cartuja  of  Montalegre,  amid  wild 
scenery.  The  legend  of  its  foundation 
runs  thus  : — Two  school-fellows,  who 
had  completed  their  studies  at  Barce- 
lona, were  coming  home,  when  they 
chanced  to  halt  in  the  pleasamt  valley 
of  Montalegre.     •  This  is  fine  scenery, 


38 


BARCELONA — ROUTES. 


and  worthy  of  a  convent. '     '  The  situa- 
tion is  fine  indeed.'     '  Well,'  quoth  the 
former,  'if  I  ever  become  a  Pope,  I 
shall  build  one  here.'     '  In  that  case,' 
answered  the  other,  '  I  must  become  a 
monk,  and  live  in  it.'   Years  and  years 
had  elapsed,  when  Fray  Juan  de  Nea 
was  sent  to  Rome  by  command  of  his 
superior,  who  had  received  an  order 
from   the  Pope  to  that  effect      The 
good  monk,  in  the  act  of  kissing  the 
Pontiff's  foot,  raised  his  head,  and  lo, 
the  Pope,  Nicolas  V.,  was  no  other  than 
his    old    school-fellow    of    Barcelona. 
Need  we  add  that  the  convent  was 
built,  and  the  funds  generously  given 
by  the  Santo  Padre  ?    Alfonso  V.  and 
his  queen  embellished  and  aggrandised 
it,  and  the  three   cloisters,  paintings, 
library,  and  plate  subsisted,  and  were 
celebrated  until  1835,  when  it  was  mostly 
destroyed  during  the  civil  war.     The 
ruins — cells,  garden-like  cloisters  and 
chapels — now  partly  restored  and  well 
kept,  are  interesting  and  deserving  of 
a  visit.    The  surrounding  country,  too, 
with  its  breezy  undulations  and  wide 
views  over  the  tossed -up  Catalonian 
hill  region,  is  beautiful  in  the  extreme. 

Badalona — pop.  19,200 — theBetulo 
of  the  Romans,  on  the  Nesos,  amid  a 
fertile  plain,  gardens  and  orange-groves. 
As  we  approach  the  capital  the  railway 
passes  close  under  the  citadel ;  to  the 
left  is  Barceloneta  and  the  bull-ring, 
and  we  stop  at  the  E.  side  of  Barcelona. 

B.  The  second  line  passes  Hostalrich 
and  Granollers,  and  is  called  Linea  del 
Interior  and  of  Granollers.  Distance, 
61£  m.  ;  fares  the  same  as  by  the 
Linea  del  Litoral.  This  is  the  express 
-route.  Hostalrich,  on  the  Tordera,  a 
strongly  fortified  place,  very  pictur- 
esque. 3J  m.  westwards  is  Breda,  from 
whence  the  ascent  of  Montseny  is  best 
made :  a  fair  posada,  where  guides  and 
mules  may  be  hired  for  the  ascent. 

Granollers.— Province  of  Barcelona, 


capital  of  the  VaUis,  population  6000. 
A  rather  interesting  church  is  here  of 
12  th  century,  but  with  portions  prob- 
ably of  14th  and  even  15th  century,  a 
nave  of  five  bays ;  an  apse  of  seven  sides, 
with  a  tower  at  the  north-west  angle. 
Observe  staircase,  and  especially  the 
iron  hand-railing,  leading  to  the  groined 
gallery  (late  15th  century)  in  west  bay, 
a  charming  newel  staircase  in  the  angle 
of  the  tower,  a  remarkable  late  wooden 
pulpit  with  rich  woodwork,  a  fine  pic- 
ture representing  the  martyrdom  of  St. 
Bartholomew.  Branch  line  to  Vich 
(pop.  18,100  ;  fine  cathedral  and  clois- 
ters ;  birthplace  of  Balmes)  and  Ripoll 
(see  p.  40  for  description).  In  the  en- 
virons, several  excursions.  Ruins  of 
the  castle  of  La  Boca ;  the  Romanesque 
Church  of  San  Felice  de  Canovellas 
(dist.  1  m. ) ;  the  snowy  hills  of  Mont- 
seny, and  the  picturesque  ruins  of  the 
Santuario  de  San  Miguel  del  Fay,  to 
reach  which  some  wild  country  has  to 
be  crossed. 

From  Marseilles  by  several  good  lines 
— Frassinet ;  Compagnie  General! 
Transatlantique ;  Ibarra  y  Compania. 
Regular  sailings,  for  which  see  adver- 
tisements in  time-tables  and  news* 
papers,  in  about  22  hrs.  Fares,  1st 
cl.,  55fr.  ;  2d  cl.,  37fr.  ;  3d  cl.,  20fr. 
First  and  second  class  passengers  are 
entitled  to  100  kilog.  luggage  free ; 
children  under  3  years  gratis;  from 
3  to  7  years  old  pay  half -fare. 
Meals  extra.  Table  d'hdte  breakfast 
and  dinner  at  tariff  prices.  Private 
cabins  if  desired. 

From  Valencia,  A,  By  sea.  By 
steamers  (good)  of  the  Spanish  Trans- 
atlantic Company  (formerly  A.  Lopez 
y  Compania)  and  several  other  lines 
of  steamers.  Regular  sailings :  16  to 
20  hrs.  Frequent  special  and  direct 
steamers,  for  which  see  local  advertise- 
ments. Fares,  1st  class,  30  pesetas; 
2d  class,  20  pesetas. 


fcARCELONA — ROUTES. 


39 


B.  By  rail.  Valencia  to  Tarragona 
twice  daily ;  7 J  hrs.  by  express  (1st 
and  2d  class),  11 J  lira,  by  slow.  Tar- 
ragona to  Barcelona  in  3  hrs.,  six 
times  daily.  Total,  through  from 
Valencia  to  Barcelona,  9J  hrs.  by 
express ;  14J  hrs.  by  slow.  See 
Valencia. 

From  Liverpool,  Frequent  sailings, 
not  recommended.  From  Cadiz, 
Malaga,  Alicante,  steamers  of  the 
Spanish  -Transatlantic  Company  (A. 
Lopez  and  Co. ) 

From  Balearic  Islands :  from  Palma 
twice  a  week,  in  12  hours.  Fares, 
28  pesetas  and  20  pesetas.  From 
Menorca  (Port  Mahon),  touching  at 
Alcvdia,  weekly ;  fare,  40  pesetas. 
For  coasting  purposes,  Tarragona  to 
Bilbao,  touching  at  every  port,  twice 
weekly,  steamers  of  Ibarra  y  Cia., 
Paseo  Isabel  II.  ;  also  for  Cette  and 
Marseilles  every  Friday.  There  are  also 
direct  steamers  from  Hamburg,  South- 
ampton, etc.,  and  others,  stopping  at 
intermediate  ports,  which  have  no 
regular  days,  and  are  advertised  in  the 
local  papers.  N.B.—¥or  all  these  and 
several  other  steam  services  consult 
advertisements  in  daily  papers  and  rail- 
way guides,  as  they  are  constantly 
changed.  Also  inspect  steamer,  if 
possible,  before  securing  passage,  as 
accommodation  is  uncertain. 

From  the  French  Pyrenees,  walking  and 
riding.— A.  Toulouse  or  Ax  to  Barcelona  by 
Puyccrda  and  Valley  of  Andorre.  Toulouse  to 
Ax.  The  railway  is  open  between  Toulouse 
and  Ax:  two  trains  daily  in  about  5  hours. 
Fares  16  fr.  and  ia  fr.  As  far  as  the  frontier 
{rood  inns  and  fair  travelling  conveniences.  On 
the  Spanish  side  rough  accommodation,  and 
guides  necessary. 


Distances. 

Kil. 

Miles 

Toulouse  to  Foix 

82 

5' 

Tarascon   .... 

16 

zo 

Ussat         .        .        . 

3 

2 

Les  Cabannes 

7 

4 

Ax 

16 

10 

124 


77 


At    Ussat,    Hdtel    Cassagne.      From    Les 
Cabannes,  the  Pic  St.  Barthe'le'my  or  Pic  de 
Tabe,  7707  ft.,  which  presents  an  admirable 
panorama,  may  be  conveniently  ascended;  6 
hrs.  to  ascend,  and  4  hrs.  to  return.     Ruins  of 
the  castle  of  Lordart,  also  worth  a  visit     Ax, 
a  small  thermal  establishment,  2329  ft.  above 
the  sea.     Hotel :  Sicre  ;  room  and  board,  6fr. 
per  diem.     It  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
thermal  sites  in  the  French  Pyrenees.     The 
scenery  is  extremely  beautiful.     The  hottest 
spring  is  168*4*  Fahr.     Now  proceed  to  valley 
of  Andorre  by  the  Port  de  Salden,  16  hours' 
journey.     Better  to  make  two  days,  and  sleep 
at  Canillo,  9  hrs.  30  min.     Carriage  road  as  far 
as  Merens,  8  kil.  5  m.  ;  thence  mountain  path 
practicable  for  horses.    The  road  ascends  the 
right  bank  of  the  Ariege,  crosses  the  stream  by 
a  stone  bridge,  and  1  hr.  30  min.  after  again 
crossing,   is  Merens,   which   has  700  inhab., 
and  is  3560  ft.  in  height  by  a  rough  ascent ;  s 
hrs.  more  to  Hospitalet,  the  last  French  village. 
About  5  min.  bring  you  to  the  bridge  of  Cerda 
and  douane  station.     Here  branch  two  roads  ; 
that  to  the  left  crossing  the  Ariege,  leads  by 
Puycerda.     Continue  to  ascend  to  the  right ; 
i\  hrs.  to  Rochers  d'Avignoles  or  Pourtailles, 
where  the  Ariege  takes  its  rise.     Here  two 
gorges  open ;  that  to  the  left  leads,  by  a  longer 
though  somewhat  easier  road,  into  the  valley 
of  Andorre,  over  the  Port  de  Framiguel.    Take 
to  the  right ;  cross  a  plateau,  follow  the  stream 
of  the  Valira,  and  descend  into  the  upper  valley 
of  Andorre.    The  narrow  gorge  to  the  left,  with 
forests,  is  the  Spanish  issue  of  Port  Framiguel. 
Before  you  rises  the  snowy  Mount  Rialp ;  the 
Port  of  Salden  is  8202  ft. ;  2  J  hours'  descent  to 
the  wretched  hamlet  of  Salden.      Follow  the 
course  of  the  stream,  and  reach   Canillo  to 
sleep ;  600  inhab. ;  belongs  to  Andorre ;  lodg- 
ings.    Next  morning  cross,  on  leaving,   the 
stream  of  the  Valira,  pass  by  Chapel  of  Miri- 
chel,  a  shrine  high  in  repute  ;  pass  also  villages 
of  En  Camp,  picturesquely  placed,  and  Las 
Escaldas,   a    thermal    establishment.      3  liri. 
after   leaving    Canillo,    Andorre   is   reached, 
which  is  the  capital  of  the  republic.      This 
worthy  pendant  of  the  republic  of  San  Marino, 
which  Napoleon  is  said  to  have  spared  because 
it  was   '  une  curiosite*  politique,'  extends   to 
25  m.  to  W.,  and  20  m.  N.  to  S.  ;  population 
about  6000,  and  the  army  is  of  600  men ;  drums, 
flags,    uniforms,    etc.,  we   should   say  arms, 
almost,  are  not  required.      The  republic  was 
first    enfranchised    by    Charlemagne,    and    a 
charter  granted  by  Louis  le  De*bonnaire.      It 
pays  a  yearly  tribute  of  48ofr.  to  France,  and 
9601V.  to  the  Prince  Bishop  of  Urgel.    There 
are  no  monuments,  no  manufactures,  no  trade 
to  speak  of.    The  people  are  quiet,  and  occtr- 


I 


40 


BARCELONA — ROUTES. 


pied  in  pastoral  or  agricultural  pursuits.  The 
capital,  Andorre,  has  850  inhab.  From  Andorre 
to  Urgel  a  mule-path  along  the  Valira,  in  6  hrs. 
Urgel  to  Puycerda  along  the  river  Segre,  25 
m.  in  6  hrs.,  whence  to  Barcelona. 

B.  Ax  to  Barcelona  by  /'wyrwfc*.— Distance 
93!  m. ;  time  10  hrs.  mule-track.  As  far  as 
Hospitalet,  see  above.  Cross  the  stream  by 
Pont  de  Cerda,  and  take  to  left,  ascending  to 
Col  de  Piqmorin  by  a  zigzag  road.  After  hav- 
ing crossed  (45  ma)  between  a  peak  on  left 
and  flat-topped  summit  on  right,  traverse  a 
plateau,  and  15  min.  after  reach  the  Col, 
height,  6293  ft.,  between  Pic  de  Fronfride, 
8380  ft  to  the  S.,  and  the  Pic  Sabarthe, 
8365  ft  to  the  N.,  forming  the  limits  of  the 
departments  of  Ariege  and  the  Pyrenees  Orien- 
tales.  Close  by  is  the  douane  station.  De- 
scend into  the  valley  of  the  Segre,  25  m.  after  is 
reached  village  of  Porte",  and  ruined  castle  of 
Cardogne  on  opposite  side  of  the  gorge  of 
Fondvive,  at  the  head  of  which  are,  mountain 
of  Lanoux,  9374  ft,  and  of  Pedroux,  9311  ft 
Follow  down  the  stream,  30  min.  after  reach 
Porta  on  left  bank  of  Segre,  4950  ft  Here 
the  gorge  becomes  very  wild,  a  chaos  of  huge 
rocks  showing  conspicuous  traces  of  glacier 
action.  Farther  down  are  the  Tours  de  Carol, 
erected  in  commemoration  of  a  victory  here 
gained  by  Charlemagne  over  the  Moors.  Cross 
the  canal,  leave  on  left  the  route  to  Bourg 
Madame,  and  reach  Puycerda,  whence  to 
Perpignan  by  daily  dil.,  62  m. 

C  From  Bagneres  £9  Luchon,  by  the  valleys 
of  La  Noguera,  Pallareza,  and'  of  Aran.  Lu- 
chon to  Portillon  ;  this  pass  is  practicable  in  all 
weather,  and  a  guide  is  not  indispensable ;  dis- 
tance, 1  hr.  5  min.  To  Bosost,  2  hrs.  (Hdtel 
du  Commerce,  decent  but  dear),  quite  a  Spanish 
town,  indifferent.  There  are  three  routes  from 
Luchon  to  Bosost,  one  by  the  Portillon  is  the 
shortest ;  on  horse  or  foot,  8f  m.,  3 J  to  4  hrs.  ; 
another  by  La  BacaSere,  on  foot ;  the  scenery 
is  finer,  fatigue  greater.  The  third  is  by  Pont 
de  Roi,  and  St  Beat ;  good  carriage-road,  25 
m.  A  temps  convert  is  recommended  to  avoid 
heat  and  dust  To  Viella,  z  hr.  from  Artias; 
from  this  to  Salardu,  first  French  village,  x  hr. 
xo  min.  Now  reach  Col  de  Plat  de  Berch. 
To  Alos,  last  French  douane  station  in  valley 
of  Aneu,  about  3  hrs.,  then  Gil,  40  min. ; 
Gun-en,  20  min. ;  Isabarre,  \  hr. ;  Eslerri  de 
Ancu,  40  min.  Of  the  two  roads  here,  take 
the  left  one  :  to  Escalo,  2  hrs. ;  to  Llaborsi,  2 
hrs. ;  sleep  there.  Next  day,  to  San  Juan  de 
Lena,  and  leaving  to  right  road  to  Sort,  pro- 
ceed through  the  Col  de  la  Besseta,  then  to 
Castellbo,  then  by  a  good  mule-path  to  Villa- 
mitjana;  to  Urgel  and  Barcelona  there  is  a 
road  from  Aiuelie-Jes- Bales,  distance  147}  kil. 


Amllie  to  Aries  ....        4 

La  Tech \* 

The  Canigou,  9144  ft  ,  may 

be  ascended  from  this  by  way  of 

Corsair. 
Prats  de  Mollo    ...  7 

Camprodon.  .  19! 

Barcelona    .  ids 


7*i  na. 


M74 


N.B. — Pedestrians  may  ascend  the  Canigou. 
by  way  of  Prats  de  Mollo  to  Vernet,  9  hrs 
From  Vernet  to  Perpignan,  daily  public  con- 
veyances,  price  8fr.,  33$  m.  ;  time  4  hrs.  25  m. 
For  more  details  and  other  routes,  see  Joanne's 
'  Itineraire,'  x  vol  with  plans  and  maps,  xofr.  ; 
Dr.  Lambron's  work,  together  with  Mr.  Packe's 
Guide  to  the  Pyrenees,  Longman,  London, 
1867,  new  edition  with  maps,  diagram,  and 
tables.  For  ascensions  in  this  part  of  the 
Pyrenees,  we  very  warmly  recommend  Comte 
H.  Russell  Killough's  special  work  on  the  sub- 
ject, '  Les  Grandes  Ascensions,'  with  12  maps,  1 
vol.  4fr.  Also  for  other  Pyrenean  routes  from 
France  into  Spain,  see  Zaragoza,  'Aragon? 

From  Camprodon  and  Vich. — Camprodon, 
4000  inhab.,  on  left  bank  of  the  Riutort,  most 
uninteresting ;  dil.  to  San  Juan  de  las  Abadesas, 
which  is  close  to  an  important  coal  mine, 
one  hr.'s  distance,  of -11  kil.  extent  Ripoll 
to  Puycerda,  a  very  bad  carretera  road.  The 
gorge  called  Las  Cobas  de  Ribas  is  very 
imposing. 

Ripoll. — 1200  inhab. — at  the  confluence  of 
the  Ter  and  Fresser.  During  the  civil  war  this 
city  was.  entirely  burnt  up,  and  is  being  slowly 
rebuilt  again.  See  the  ruins  of  a  magnificent 
Benedictine  monastery  founded  by  Count 
Wifred  El  Velloso,  which  became  the  Escorial 
or  burial-house  of  the  Counts  of  .Barcelona. 
The  capitals  of  columns  are  most  elaborately 
worked  out  with  human  and  allegorical  heads ; 
the  central  nave  is  of  9th  and  xoth  century, 
the  transept  and  apse  of  the  xxth. 

Vich.  —  Inn :  Fonda  de  la  Plaza,  fair. 
13,100  inhab.,  Bishop's  See  :  the  plains  around 
are  watered  by  the  Ter,  and  from  them  the  Mon- 
seny  and  Pyrenees  may  be  seen.  Vich,  the  Ro- 
man Ausa,  and  Gothic  Ausona,  became  Vicus- 
Ausone,  and  was  under  the  exclusive  jurisdic- 
tion of  the  Bishop,  though  the  upper  portion 
belonged  to  the  Moncada  family.  It  finally  be- 
came the  property  of  the  crown,  under  Jaime 
II.,  about  1450.  The  streets  are  narrow  and 
ill-paved  ;  the  only  interesting  sight  here  is  the 
cathedral,  which  was  built  about  1040,  but  re- 
paired and  modernised  about  the  end  of  the  18th 
century ;  who  the  architect  was  is  not  known. 
We  only  know  that  in  1325,  the  maestro  mayo. 


BARCELONA. 


41 


was  Ramon  Desping,  and  in  1333  one  Lademosa. 
The  outside  is  very  indifferent ;  the  interior  is 
divided  into  three  naves,  which  are  bold  and 
elegant  The  transept  is  formed  by  lofty  pillars, 
somewhat  thin  ;  the  Gothic  cloisters  are  of  the 
richest  and  most  elegant  character.  They  were 
completed  in  134a  Most  of  the  former  sepul- 
chres disappeared  when  the  cathedral  was  re- 
paired, and  then  also  were  blocked  up  the  sub- 
terraneous chapels,  amongst  which  was  the 
celebrated  Capilla  de  San  Nicolas,  where  the 
matutine  or  popular  masses  were  celebrated, 
in  the  beginning  of  the  14th  century,  on  the 
festival  of  St.  Stephen,  and  the  epistle  of  his 
martyrdom  was  sung  in  Limousin  of  the  13th 
century.  The  Capilla  del  Santo  Espiritu  is  a 
fine  building,  and  dates  1344-1 351.  In  the  ar- 
chivo  and  library  are  kept  a  Bible  of  the  13th 
century,  very  richly  illuminated,  the  poem  of 
Dande  de  Prades,  and  a  curious  book  on 
Cetreria.  In  the  centre  of  the  cloisters  observe 
the  fine  monument  to  the  Catalan  philosopher 
Balmes.  Some  quaint  old  houses  in  the  Plaza 
Mayor. 

Granollers,  capital  of  the  Valle"s,  7000  inhab., 
is  uninteresting :  church  of  the  12th  century. 
In  the  vicinity  are  the  celebrated  springs  of 
Caldas  (hot  springs)  de  Monbuy  (see  Mineral 
Establishments,  General  Information). 

From    Pnycerdd  and    Urgel.— Puycerdd, 


2500  inhab.,  124a  metres  (4085  ft.)  high  ;  a  very 
wretched,  dirty  village,  with  an  indifferent 
church  of  Sta.  Barbara.  From  this  to  Urgel 
by  a  mule-path;  excellent  trout-fishing  and 
shooting.  Go  to  Bellver  by  a  carriageable 
road.  Bellver,  19x9  inhab.,  ruins  of  a  mediaeval 
castle;  magnificent  and  extensive  views  are 
obtained  from  the  town,  whence  its  graphic 
name.  Then  through  a  defile  to  Puente  de 
Var,  after  crossing  Martinet ;  then  by  the  right 
bank  of  the  Segre  to  Urgel.  Urgel,  or  Seu 
(see  of  Urgel),  is  a  bishop's  see,  3000  inhab. 
The  cathedral  is  indifferent ;  the  cloisters  of 
13th  century.  Two  m.  W.  are  the  three  forts 
which  defend  the  city,  the  Citadel,  the  Castillo, 
and  the  Torra  de  Solsona.  Proceed  to  Solsona, 
2671  inhab.  Cardona,  4366  inhab.,  close  to 
river  Cardoner.  Its  Castillo  is  very  strongly 
built,  and  situated  N.E.  Dil.  for  and  from 
Puycerda  two  a  week.  From  Cardona  to 
Manresa,  and  then  by  rail  to  Barcelona  in  a  hrs., 
five  trains  a  day :  line  from  Zaragoza  to  Barce- 
lona. There  is  a  second  road  from  and  to  Vich. 
Vich  to  Granollers  by  rail. 

From  or  to  Martorell. — By  rail  ;  dis- 
tance, 33  kil. ;  time,  about  1  hr. ;  fare* 
from  14r.  82c.  to  9r.  35c.  Six  traim 
per  day,  and  one  more  on  holidays. 
(For  subsequent  descrip.  see  p.  473.) 


BARCELONA. 

Capital  of  Province  of  same  name.     Population,  512.000. 

Distances — Madrid,  440  miles  (18  hours) ;  Paris,  24  hours ;  Pamplona,  339  miles  (14  hours). 

Connected  by  rail  with  all  the  principal  towns  on  die  coast. 

Steamers  to  various  Mediterranean  ports,  including  the  Balearic  Islands. 

tables ;  lift ;  good  sanitary  arrange- 
ments ;  reading-room,  with  Continental 
and  English  papers ;  guides  ;  sleeping- 
car  agency.  Pension  from  pes.  12.50 
upwards.  Central  y  Falcon,  close  by, 
same  proprietor  ;  also  recommended  ; 
cheaper.  Continental  and  Grand  Hotel 
de  Inglaterra,  both  on  the  Plaza  de 
Cataluna,  and  good,  but  not  many 
good  rooms.  Pension  from  pes.  10. 
Oriente,  Peninsular,  and  Esparto,  good 
Spanish  hotels,  with  Spanish  cuisine. 
Several  good  Casas  de  Huespedes  and 


Railway  Stations,  &c. — For  the 
French  line,  direct  line  to  Madrid 
and  Valencia  line,  the  Central  Station 
behind  the  Plaza  del  Palacio ;  for 
Zaragoza  and  Pamplona,  Calle  de  Villa- 
nueva ;  for  Sarria,  Plaza  de  Cataluna ; 
Omnibuses,  2r.  per  person ;  lr.  to  4r. 
each  parcel,  according  to  size  and 
weight,  a  tariff ;  porters  (called  faquines) 
carry  luggage  to  or  from  hotels  for  5r., 
a  tariff  also  ;  to  boatmen,  2r.  per 
person,  2r.  per  parcel ;  to  load  or  un- 
load, 2r.  a  parcel.  Settle  price  before- 
hand, or  ask  for  tariff. 


las  Cuatro  Nadones),  excellently  situ- 
ated on  the  Rainbla  del  Centro.  First 
class;    good   table-d'hdie    at    separate 


_  lodgings :    the  best,  Ranzini's,  No.  6 

Hotels.-(£andHotel  (formerly  D c\  Dormitorio  San  Francisco  and  Paseode 

x  J         Colon ;    Mrs.    De    Bergue  s,    Kambla 

Cataluna,  123,  and  a  lodging-house  at 
No.  4  Calle  Union,  with  view  upon  the 
Rambla. 


42 


BARCELONA. 


Post  Office.—  Calle  de  Buen  Suceso, 
off  the  Rambla ;  open  from  8  a.m.  to 
4  p.m.,  and  again  for  an  uncertain 
time  at  8  p.m.  Passports  asked  for. 
Letters  can  also  be  posted  at  all 
estancos.  Three  collections  and  de- 
liveries daily.  English  letters  delivered 
at  noon,  and  must  be  posted  before  3 
o'clock.     Two  days'  post  to  London. 

Telegraph  Office.  —  Ronda  San 
Pedro  and  Plaza  del  Teatro,  1. 

Telephone  Office.— Calle  Ztirbano, 
off  the  Plaza  Real,  for  Madrid  and  ail 
coast  lines,  Valencia,  etc.  Same  price 
as  telegrams. 

History. — Barcelona  is  said  by  the 
learned  to  have  been  founded  by  the 
Carthaginian  Hamilcar,  surnamed  Barca 
(fulmen  Latine),  a  common  family  name 
with  the  Carthaginians,  according  to 
Niebuhr,  Heeren,  etc.,  about  the  year 
237  B.O.,  according  to  Romey.  Caesar 
Augustus  raised  it  to  a  'colonia,'  with 
the  names  of  Julia  Augusta,  Pia,  Fa- 
ventia,  etc.  Its  importance  now  daily 
increased,  and  there  are  many  vestiges, 
such  as  slabs,  fragments  of  altars,  col- 
umns, etc.,  of  that  time,  which  are  so 
many  evidences  of  its  prosperity  under 
the  Romans.  Ataulfo,  the  first  king  of 
the  Goths,  chose  it  as  his  court,  and  made 
it  the  capital  of  Hispana-Gothia,  sub- 
sequently called  Septimania.  Shortly 
after  713,  Barcelona  fell  into  the  hands 
of  Abdul-Aziz.  The  Moors  did  not 
retain  it  long ;  for  Charlemagne,  on  the 
death  of  his  father,  thought  the  oppor- 
tunity a  favourable  one  to  extend  his 
dominions,  and  with  the  pretext  of 
coming  in  aid  to  his  Christian  brethren, 
he  and  his  son  Ludovic  expelled  the 
infidel  in  801,  who  had  ruled  for  88 
years  only,  and  then  quietly  added  the 
city  he  had  come  to  free  to  his  duchy 
of  Aquitaine,  of  which  it  became  the 
head.  '  Dios  me  libre  de  mis  amigos, 
que  yo  me  library  de  mis  enemigbs.' 
Barcelona  was  now  governed  by  counts, 


who  in  874  became  hereditary,  when 
Charles  the  Bold  made  it  an  independ- 
ent kingdom  in  favour  of  and  to  reward 
Count  "Wilfred  el  Velloso,  who  had  so 
effectually  aided  him  against  the  Nor- 
mans. One  of  its  greatest  counts, 
Ramon  Berenguer  IV.  (12th  century), 
united  the  crowns  of  Catalufia  to  Aragon 
by  marriage  with  Petronila,  the  heiress 
to  this  latter  kingdom.  In  his  reign, 
Barcelona  became  the  emporium  of 
Southern  Europe,  and  the  capital  of  the 
most  powerful  of  maritime  nations. 
Dockyards,  arsenals,  and  warehouses, 
were  numerous,  and  on  a  grand  scale, 
for  the  trade,  especially  with  the  Levant, 
was  very  great ;  and  Barcelona  was  the 
rival  of  Genoa  and  Venice.  It  became 
part  of  the  kingdom  when  Ferdinand 
of  Aragon  espoused  Isabella  of  Castile. 
Always  more  or  less  ill-disposed,  but 
more  especially  since  Philip  III.,  Cata- 
lu&a  has  often  endeavoured  to  regain 
her  former  independence,  and  gave  hei 
interest  and  money  at  one  time  to  the 
French,  at  another  to  the  Spaniard, 
whichever  held  out  the  better  prospect 
of  attaining  that  end.  The  principado 
has  been  always  a  focus  of  revolution, 
democracy,  and  pronunciamientoa. 
Barcelona,  in  the  middle  ages,  was 
thronged  with  provencal  troubadora 
'de  la  gaye  sciense,'  and  councillors 
and  statesmen  who  framed  the  laws  of 
the  '  Consulado  del  Mar, '  a  commercial 
code  which  dates  1279,  and  was  re- 
spected and  imitated  everywhere. 

With  reference  to  this,  see  '  le  Codigo  de  las 
Costumbres  Maritimas  de  Barcelona/  etc.,  in 
Spanish  and  the  original  Limousin,  by  Cap- 
mani  y  Monpalau  ;  Madrid  1791,  2  vols,  in  4to  ; 
and  about  the  early  trade  and  navy,  see 
'Memorias  historicas  sobre  la  Marina,'  Co- 
mercio,'  etc.,  of  Barcelona  by  same  author ; 
Madrid,  Saucha,  1779,  4  vols,  in  4to,  one  of  the 
most  important  works  ever  published  on  trade 
and  navy  in  the  middle  ages.  D.  Victor  Balag- 
ner's  '  Historia  de  Catalufia,'  of  which  a  new 
edition  has  been  published  in  1888,  should  also 
be  consulted. 


BARCELONA. 


43 


Many  and  important  armadas,  some 
numbering  200  sail,  80  and  more  large 
galleys  were  often  equipped  here.    Ara- 
gon  (when  comprising  Cataluna)  was 
very  proud,  and  justly  so,  of  its  pre- 
eminence on  the  sea  ;  and  such  was  the 
jealousy  felt    at  Barcelona  when  the 
rival  Castile  had  lent  its  aid,  money, 
and  fleet  to  Columbus,  that  though  it 
was  here  that  he  was  received  by  the 
Catholic  kings,  to  whom  he  had  given  a 
world,  with  all  'the  pomp  and  circum- 
stance '  so  brilliantly  described  by  W. 
Irving,  there  is  no  notice'  of  such  an 
event  to  be  found  either  in  the  archives 
of  the  city  or  those  of  Aragon.     The 
Dietaria  of  1492  is  likewise  disdainfully 
silent  on    this    point      (See    Major's 
4 Select  Letters  of  Christ.  Columbus,' 
Hackluyt  Sos.  1857.      Barcelona  was 
at  an  early  period  a  centre  of  learning, 
and    one  of  the  first  cities  of  Spain 
where  printing  was  introduced,   and 
some  of  the  best  publishers,   especi- 
ally of  illustrated  and  artistic  works, 
Catalan    and    Spanish,    are    still    to 
be    found    here.       [The     bibliophile 
should  not    neglect    to    secure    their 
catalogues  and  visit  their   establish- 
ments.]   Here,  also,  January  17,  1543, 
a  ship    of   200    tons   was    launched, 
which  was  made  to  move  by  means 
of  steam.      Its   inventor  was  Blasco 
de  Garay,  and  the   experiment  took 
place  in  the  presence  of  a  committee 
named  by  Charles  V.  and  Philip  II. 
(The    memoir   which    contains   these 
and  other  details  is  at  Simancas. )    The 
invention  consisted  of  a  large  boiler, 
which   moved   by   steam   two  wheels 
placed  at  the  sides  of  the  vessel.     The 
experiment  seems  to  have  answered, 
but  the  trial  was  discouraged  by  the 
king's  treasurer,  Kavago,  who  was,  for 
some  personal  motive,  hostile  to  the 
inventor,   and    drew  up  a    report  in 
which  he  states  that  the  speed  did  not 
exceed  two  leagues  in  three  hours,  that 


the  machinery  was  too  complicated,  and 
the  boiler  likely  to  burst  Charles  V., 
who  was  then  absorbed  in  political 
schemes  of  greater  moment,  did  not 
examine  the  thing  with  attention,  but 
paid  Garay  all  expenses,  and  gave  him 
promotion  and  a  present  of  200,000 
maravedis.  But  he  was  discouraged, 
and  the  secret,  whatever  it  was,  died 
with  him.  Andrea  Navagero,  Venetian 
ambassador  to  Charles  V.,  speaks  thus 
of  this  city,  which  he  visited  in  1526  : 
'  &  bellissima  cittaed  in  bellissimo  sito ; 
ed  ha  gran  copia  di  giardini  belissimi, 
di  mirti,  aranci,  e  cedri ;  le  case  buone 
e  comode,  fabbricate  di  pietra,  e  non 
di  terra,  come  nel  resto  di  Catalogna. ' 

General  Description.  —  Barcelona 
is  now  the  largest  city  in  Spain,  and 
the  first  in  a  commercial  view.  It  is 
most  prosperous  and  improving,  and 
although  called  the  Manchester  of  Span- 
ish Lancashire  (Cataluna),  it  is  free 
from  the  usual  annoyances  and  appear- 
ances characteristic  of  manufacturing 
towns.  The  mills  (cotton,  silk,  and 
woollen)  are  situated  at  some  distance 
outside  the  walls,  and  the  sons  of  toil, 
waggoners,  wharfingers,  and  the  sea- 
faring population,  are  confined  within, 
the  suburbs.  The  happy  situation  of 
the  city  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean, and  communicating  at  the  same 
time  with  the  Atlantic  ports  by  railway ; 
its  vicinity  to  France  and  Italy ;  the 
facilities  of  living,  the  climate  mild  in 
winter  and  agreeable  at  all  seasons  ; 
the  enlightened,  kind,  and  bold-hearted, 
enterprising  people  who  are  seen  in  so 
thriving  a  condition,  are  all  so  many, 
inducements  for  the  invalid  and 
general  tourist  to  linger  here.  We 
must  add  the  no  less  important  advan- 
tages of  which  other  medical  stations, 
such  as  Malaga,  Alicante,  etc.,  are  de- 
prived, viz.,  several  well-organised  libra- 
ries, and  collections  of  natural  history 
and  antiquities,  a  first-rate  opera-house, 


44 


BARCELONA. 


and  a  variety  of  excursions  in  the  envi- 
rons. Of  society,  which  is  after  all  the 
least  interesting  feature  in  a  country, 
there  is  little,  though  the  Barcelonese 
are  passionately  fond  of  music,  dancing, 
and  dress.  On  the  other  hand,  mere 
sight-seers  must  remain  comparatively 
idle  here,  as  most  of  this  handsome 
city  has  been  either  modernised  or  en- 
tirely rebuilt,  saving  the  tortuous  and 
narrow  but  picturesque  quarters  in- 
habited by  the  lower  classes  ;  and 
besides  the  cathedral  and  one  or  two 
other  churches  (which  are  certainly  in- 
teresting examples  of  Catalonian- 
Gothic  architecture),  there  are  few  ob- 
jects that  deserve  the  attention  of 
the  artist.  On  quitting  Barcelona, 
July  1844,  Washington  Irving  gave 
his  opinion  of  the  city  thus  : — '  1  leave 
this  beautiful  city  with  regret.  .  .  . 
Indeed,  one  enjoys  the  very  poetry  of 
existence  in  these  soft  southern  climates 
which  border  the  Mediterranean.  All 
here  is  picture  and  romance.  Notliing 
has  given  me  greater  delight  than  occa- 
sional evening  drives  with  some  of  my 
diplomatic  colleagues  to  those  country- 
seats,  or  torres,  as  they  are  called,  situ- 
ated on  the  slopes  of  the  hills,  two  or 
three  miles  from  the  city,  surrounded 
by  groves  of  oranges,  citrons,  figs,  po- 
megranates, etc.,  with  terraced  gardens 
gay  with  flowers  and  fountains.  Here 
we  would  sit  on  the  lofty  terraces  over- 
looking the  rich  and  varied  plain,  the 
distant  city  gilded  by  the  setting  sun, 
and  the  blue  sea  beyond.  Nothing  can 
be  purer  and  softer  and  sweeter  than  the 
evening  air  inhaled  in  these  favoured 
retreats.'  Cervantes,  who  knew  every 
town  in  Spain,  and  was  a  great  traveller 
for  his  day,  describes  it  enthusiastically 
as  the  '  flor  de  las  bellas  ciudades  del 
mundo,  honra  de  Espana,  regalo  y  de- 
licia  de  bus  moradores  y  satisfaccion  de 
todo  aquello  que  de  una  grande,  famosa, 


rica  y  bien  fundada  ciudad  puede  pedii 
un  discrete  y  curioso  deseo.' 

Climate. — Though  sheltered  on  the 
western  side  by  the  high  hill  of  Mont- 
juich,  Barcelona  is  somewhat  exposed 
to  the  north  and  east  winds.  The  tem- 
perature is  very  mild ;  it  snows  very 
seldom ;  the  heat  in  summer  seldom  ex- 
ceeds 81°  Cent.  (87  Fahr.),  or  falls  be- 
low  2°  under  zero  (28  Fahr).  The 
average  of  rainy  days  in  the  year  is  69. 
The  climate  is  sufficiently  dry,  with 
occasional  fogs  however ;  it  is  not  so 
bracing  as  Tarragona,  but  almost  en- 
tirely free  from  cold  winds.  The 
most  prevalent  diseases  are  catarrhal, 
rheumatic,  dyspeptic,  and  nervous 
affections.  January  is  about  the  only 
month  to  avoid,  especially  in  bronchial 
complaints.  y 

Barcelona  is  lat.  41°  22'  58"  N.,  long. 
2°  8'  1 1"  E.  The  orange  and  palm  grow 
very  well. 

METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS 

MADE  AT  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  BARCELONA. 

Centigrade  Thermometer . 


Months. 

Temperature  of  Air. 

Aver- 
age. 

Maxi- 
mum. 

Mini- 
mum. 

Oscil. 

December 

January    . 
February  . 
March  . 
April    .     . 
May     •.    • 
June     •    . 
July      .     . 
August 
September 
October     . 
November 

zo.4 

10.6 
11. 1 
12.7 
14. 1 
17.6 
21.6 
24. 1 
25.9 
22.1 

19-5 
»3-7 

16.7 

16.1 
15.0 
17.8 
18.3 

23-9 
27.2 
28.3 

310 
29.0 

24-5 

2C.C 

2.8 

4-4 

6.7 

7-8 

9-4 

94 

150 

19.4 

22.0 

15.6 

zo.8 

8.0 

13.9 

11.7 

8.3 
zo.o 

8.9 

M.5 
12.2 

8.9 
9.0 

13-4 

»3-7 

-  12.0 

Average  pressure  of  atmosphere    .     760.59 

,,        temperature  of  year    .     .        16.9 

Maximum  temperature,  August  zo        31.0 

Minimum  temperature,  December          2.8 

Winds  in  year: — W.  96  days ;  E.  51 :  S.E. 

49;  S.W.  40;  N.38;  N.E.  37;  N.W.  34;  | 

S.  24.                                                            j 

BARCELONA, 


45 


Streets,  Squares,  etc. — The  prin- 
cipal streets  are  very  well  payed,  wide, 
and  long,  such  as  Calle  de  Fernando, 
which  is  the  handsomest,  and  where  there 
are  some  Parisian-looking  shops  ;  Calle 
Ancha,  which  runs  parallel  with  the 
Muralla  del  Mar  ;  the  JRambla,  which  is 
a  fine  broad  boulevard,  with  trees  and 
a  promenade  in  the  centre,  and  receives 
different  names  to  designate  portions  of 
it,  such  as  Rambla  del  Centro,  de  los 
Capuchinos,   etc.      It  is  1120  metres 
(1100  yards)  long,  and  runs  in  a  straight 
line  to  the  sea.     It  is  a  constant  pro- 
menade, especially  towards  the  evening ; 
and  here  the  best  hotels,  theatres,  dili- 
gence offices,  etc.,  are  situated.     Calle 
de  la  Plateria  is  the  locals  of  the  silver- 
smiths,  in  whose  shops  amateurs  of 
vertu  now  and  then  pick  up  a  fine  speci- 
men of  silversmith-work  of  former  times. 
See  also  the  earrings  worn  by  the  payesas 
or  country-women,   of  antique  form. 
The  principal  squares  are — Plaza   de 
Palacio,  with  a  Carara  marble  fountain 
in  the  centre,  representing  the  genii  of 
the  four  provinces  of  Catalu&a,  with 
attributes,   flowers,   etc.,  executed  by 
Italian  artists.    A  winged  genius  crowns 
the  monument,  on  the  principal  front 
of   which  is    the   escutcheon  of  the 
Marquis  of  Campo  -  Sagrado,  formerly 
Capt.  -General  of  Cataluna,  with  the 
proud  motto  of  his  family,  'Despues 
de    Dios  la  Casa  de   Quiros.'    Plaza 
Seal,  surrounded   by  handsome   new 
houses  with  arcades,  in  imitation  of  the 
Palais  Royal  in  Paris,  with  a  fountain 
in  the  centre  and  a  group  of  the  three 
Graces.     [N.B. — This  square  forms  a 
pleasant  and  sheltered  promenade  on 
either  wet  or  hot  days,  and  is  close  to 
the  two  chief  hotels.  ]   Plaza  del  Tea&ro, 
close  to  the  Grand  Hotel,  and  one  of 
the  busiest  spots  of  the  city.     In  the 
centre  is  a  statue  to  Federico  Soler, 
replacing  the  old  'Font  del  Verl,'  an 
ancient  and  allegorical  fountain.     In 


Plaza  de  Afedinaceli  there  is  a  paltry 
statue  raised  in  1851  to  Galceran  Mar 
quet,  one  of  the  greatest  seamen  Cata- 
luna has  produced.  The  obelisk  in  Plaza 
de  San  Pedro  dates  1672,  and  the  statue 
is  of  Sta.  Eulalia,  the  tutelar  of  Bar- 
celona. 

Fortress. — From  its  situation  and 
importance,  Barcelona  has  been  very 
strongly  fortified.     On  the  S.  side  are 
the  Atarazanas  near  Monjuich.     The 
Atarazanas    were  built    by  Jaime    el 
Conquistador,  1243,  as  arsenals  for  the 
navy,  and  extended  formerly  to  Plaza 
de  Palacio.     The  name  Arabic^  means 
dockyards,  whence  the  Catalan  dressana 
and  the  Spanish  darsena.     These  could 
hold  already,  in  the  time  of  James  II., 
25  large  galleys  under  shelter  and  se- 
cure.    A  large  galley  used  to  cost  then 
(14th  century)  about  23,780r.,  and  the 
yearly  expense  (seamen,  rigging,  etc.) 
about  18,120r.     Now  the  Atarazanas 
comprise  infantry  and  cavalry  barracks 
(7000  men  in  all).     Its  construction, 
though  ancient,    is  interesting.     The 
citadel  was  begun  in  1715,  and  designed 
by  Philip  V.'s  minister,   Olivares,  to 
have  command  over  the  city.     It  has 
long  been  a  simple    cuartel,   and    is 
now  in  process  of  demolition.      The 
Fuerie   de    Carlos    and    Fuerte    Pio 
were  destined  to  cut  communications 
between    Barcelona  and  the    country 
and  attacks  by  the  old  French  road. 
The   Castle    of  Monjuich,   S.    of   the 
town,    is  placed  on   an  isolated    hill 
about  735  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
It  is  of  irregular  form,  with  a  reduit 
composed  of  four  fronts,  to  the  sea,  and 
port,  and  to  the  country.     This  is  truly 
the  most  important  fortification,  and  he 
who  holds  it  holds  the  whole  city  in 
check  and  in  his  power,  for  from  its 
great    elevation    and    proximity    the 
curved  fires  (the  direct  ones  would  not 
be  so  certain)  could  destroy  the  city. 
The  name  is  said  by  some  to  mean 


46 


BARCELONA. 


Mons  Jovis,  from  a  temple  raised  to 
Jupiter  on  that  hill,  and  by  others  Hill 
of  the  Jews,  whose  cemetery  was  for- 
merly situated  between  the  hill  and  the 
city.  When  the  Archduke,  Charles  of 
Austria,  who  claimed  from  Philip  V. 
the  Spanish  crown,  landed  close  by 
Badalona  (Sept.  1705),  Lord  Peter- 
borough attacked  Monjuich,  and,  by  a 
daring  surprise,  took  it  oh  the  14th  of 
that  same  month,  obliging  the  Spanish 
general  Velasco  to  abandon  Barcelona. 
In  the  Peninsular  war  it  was  taken  by 
Duhesme,  by  a  stratagem  not  unlike 
that  used  towards  Pamplona  (1808), 
and  surrendered  to  Marshal  Monceyby 
Mina  in  1823. 

The  Port. — The  port  has  been,  and 
continues  to  be,  yearly  improved.  It 
is  large,  commodious  ;  but  the  bar  at 
the  entrance  is  not  without  danger,  and 
the  assistance  of  pilots  is  deemed  neces- 
sary to  enter  or  go  out.  The  harbour 
is  formed  by  a  mole  of  considerable 
length,  with  a  lighthouse  and  some 
batteries.  On  one  side,  E.,  extends 
the  well-peopled  barrio  or  quartier 
called  Barceloneta,  and  on  the  opposite 
is  the  fort  of  Atarazanas,  and  the  quays 
called  Muralla  del  Mar.  In  the  14th 
and  15th  centuries,  when  the  port  was 
always  crowded  with  fleets  of  merchant- 
men, the  entrance  was  not  above  8|  ft. 
deep,  and  the  sandbanks  or  bar  called 
tasca  (atascar,  from  stancare)  was  a 
great  natural  defence.  Though  granted 
in  1438  by  Alfonso  V.  of  Aragon,  the 
works  for  the  mole  did  not  begin  before 
the  20th  September  1474,  after  the  de- 
signs and  under  the  direction  of  an 
engineer  from  Alexandria,  called  Itacio; 
but  this  mole  was  a  very  imperfect  work, 
and  even  after  several  augmentations 
and  much  expense,  it  was,  we  read  in 
Capmany,  about  600  feet  long  in  the  end 
of  17th  century  ;  though  in  the  accu- 
rate 'Life  of  the  Duke  of  Osuna,' 
written  in  Italian  by  Leti,  Amsterdam, 


1700,  400  only.  The  works  were  re 
newed  in  1753,  and  completed  in  1754. 
Several  additions  have  been  but  re- 
cently finished.  The  depth  of  water 
within  the  outer  mole  is  from  25  to 
30  ft.  Vessels  drawing  20  ft.  moor 
alongside  the  mole ;  larger  ships  in 
the  outer  port. 

The  Trade  is  brisk,  and  the  railways, 
which  now  centre  in  Barcelona,  will 
increase  it.  The  principal  imports  are 
raw  cotton  and  colonial  products,  prin- 
cipally from  Cuba  and  Puerto  Rico  ; 
iron,  machinery,  coal,  from  England. 
Cataluna  is  the  greatest  manufacturing 
centre  in  Spain,  and  principal  seat  of 
the  cotton  trade,  in  which  over  100,000 
persons  are  engaged.  The  exports  are 
wrought  silks,  cotton  stuffs,  soap, 
chemicals,  firearms,  paper,  etc.,  al- 
monds, nuts,  etc.  The  annual  number 
of  ships  of  all  nations  entering  and 
leaving  the  port  is  about  4500,  with  a 
tonnage  of  about  1,700,000.  See  for 
more  details,  'Revistade  Estadistica,' 
the  Catalonian  one  as  well  as  that  pub- 
lished at  Madrid ;  also  the  Consular  and 
Commercial  Reports  published  yearly 
in  England.  A  very  fine  new  Custom 
House  {Aducma)  is  now  (1898)  being 
constructed  in  front  of  the  old 
Atarazana  barracks  ;  and  a  Clarke  and 
Stansfield  dry-dock  is  also  about  to  be 
opened.  Barcelona  has  ever  been  a 
fierce  opponent  of  Free  Trade,  of  which 
Bilbao  is  the  Spanish  champion. 

Sights.— The  Cathedral ;  the  'Sa- 
grada  Familia ' ;  Churches  ;  Lonja  ; 
Casa  de  la  Diputacion,  etc.;  Univer- 
sity; Public  Gardens;  old  houses  and 
antiquities. 

The  Cathedral— (la  Seu  or  Seo).— 
The  old  cathedral  of  Barcelona  was  con- 
verted by  the  Moors  into  a  mosque,  and 
partly  rebuilt  and  augmented  by  Count 
Ramon  Berenguer  I.  But  as  the  im- 
portance of  the  city  grew  with  the 


BARCELONA — CATHEDRAL 


47 


establishment  of  the  Court  of  Aragon, 
James  II.,  in  1298,  laid  the  first  stone 
of  a  new  cathedral,  which  was  finished 
in  1448.  Style.— The  style  is  Gothic, 
or  what  we  should  more  appropriately 
call  Catalonian,  and  it  exhibits  the 
characteristics  of  the  first  and  latter 
period  of  that  style  in  Spain.  It  is 
sober,  elegant,  harmonious,  and  simple; 
not  crowded  with  sculpturing  and  orna- 
mentation, as  was  the  case  at  the  close 
of  the  14th  century,  and  it  mostly  be- 
longs to  the  best  and  purest  period  of 
ogival  architecture.  There  are  portions 
left  unfinished,  and  others — some  of 
the  lateral  chapels,  e.g.  of  poor  modern 
work ;  but  upon  the  whole  few  cathedral 
churches  in  Spain  better  repay  careful 
study. 

Exterior. — It  is  approached,  as  is 
usual  in  Catalufia,  by  an  elevated  flight 
of  steps,  which  renders  the  edifice  more 
effective.  The  principal,  western  facade 
has  lately  been  completed  by  a  local 
benefactor,  in  very  poor  late  Gothic 
style,  which,  besides  destroying  some 
valuable  glass,  harmonises  ill  with  the 
fine  old  cathedral,  and  speaks  volumes 
for  the  Catalan  taste  of  the  day  and  the 
powers  oflocal  architects.  The  door  lead- 
ing to  the  cloister  from  Calle  del  Obispo 
is  Byzantine,  as  is  the  small  belfry,  the 
bell  of  which  is  the  oldest  in  Barcelona. 
The  belfry  towers  are  very  lofty,  and 
date  end  of  14th  century.  The  present 
clock  is  comparatively  modern,  but  the 
former  one  was  the  oldest  known  in 
Spain,  dated  1393,  and  therefore  older 
than  that  at  Seville.  (Capmany,  'Mem. 
Hist,'  book  iv.)  At  each  side  of  the 
Portal  de  la  Ingwisicion  is  a  slab  with 
inscription  containing  the  date  May 
1298,  when  the  cathedral  was  begun, 
and  the  other  the  continuance  or  prose- 
cution of  the  works  in  1329.  Over  the 
portal  there  is  a  relievo,  representing, 
though  most  rudely  rendered,  the  le- 
gendary fight  between  Yilardell  and  the 


Dragon.  This  monster  was  let  loose  by 
the  Moors,  when  this  hero  was  obliged 
to  abandon  to  them  his  castle  in  the 
Val6s.  God  appearing  to  him  under  the 
garb  of  a  pauper,  tried  first  his  charity, 
and  being  satisfied,  gave  him  a  miracu- 
lous sword,  which  cleft  rocks  and  the 
thickest  trees.  He  then  met  the  dragon 
and  killed  him,  upon  which,  as  he  was 
more  of  a  huntsman  than  a  pious  gentle- 
man, he  gave  vent  to  his  joy,  and 
exclaimed,  '  Well  done,  mighty  sword, 
and  not  less  mighty  arm  of  Vilardell ! ' 
Just  then  he  felt  on  his  arm  some  drops 
from  the  dragon's  blood  which  dripped 
from  the  blade  he  held  up  in  exultation  ; 
and  as  it  was  the  subtlest  poison  he 
died  instantly.  God  thus  ' castigando 
su  vanagloria. 

The  name  of  the  architect  who  de- 
signed the  cathedral  is  not  ascertained. 
The  Mallorquin  Jaime  Fabre  (1317)  is 
known  to  have  directed  the  works  in 
the  beginning.  In  1888,  the  Maestro 
Roque  succeeded  him.  Escuder  (middle 
of  15th  century)  is  the  last  architect 
mentioned  in  the  archives.  The  cathe- 
dral was  first  named  Sta.  Cruz,  to  which 
the  name  of  Sta.  Eulalia  was  added 
when  this  saint's  body  was  brought  to 
this  church. 

Interior. — The  plan  is  cruciform.  The 
church,  though  exclusively  Catalan  as 
to  details,  is  not  Spanish  in  plan,  but 
approaches  rather  the  French  arrange- 
ment of  an  aisle  and  chapels  round  the 
apse,  so  that  nothing  impedes  the  vista 
eastwards.  It  is  divided  into  three  spa- 
cious naves,  formed  by  somewhat  mas- 
sive pillars,  with  elegant  shafts  semi- 
attached  and  topped  by  elaborately- 
worked  capitals,  from  which  nineteen 
arches  spring  to  form  a  vaulted  roof.  The 
presbytery  is  surrounded  by  ten  columns 
of  a  good  style.  The  portion  between 
the  choir  and  the  principal  entrance 
dates  1420;  but  some  authors  are  ol 
opinion  that  it  is  of  1329.     Observe  the 


18 


BARCELONA — CATHEDRAL. 


bold  and  effective  arch  which  rests  upon 
che  two  first  piers,  and  the  open-work 
clerestory  or  balustrade  over  the  portal 
and  its  lateral  chapels. 

Under  the' high  altar  is  a  crypt  called 
Capilla  and  Sepulcro  de  Sta.  Eulalia. 
It  is  not  always  shown  to  visitors,  and 
is  not  remarkable.  It  was  built  and 
completed  1338,  by  Fabre,  and  the 
body  of  the  saint  removed  in  following 
year  from  the  church  of  Sta.  Maria  del 
Mar,  where  it  had  been  kept  since  878. 
The  general  plan  and  design  are  like 
that  of  the  sepulchre  of  SS.  Peter  and 
Paul  in  the  Vatican.  The  urn  is  of 
alabaster,  with  many  mezzi-relievi  re- 
presenting scenes  from  the  life  of  the 
saint.  It  is  lighted  up  by  lamps,  which 
burn  without  intermission.  '  The  plan- 
ning of  the  nave,'  says  Street,  *  is  very 
peculiar.  The  chapels  in  the  south 
aisle  have  a  row  of  other  chapels,  which 
open  into  the  cloister,  placed  back  to 
back  with  them,  and  the  windows  which 
light  the  former  open  into  the  latter, 
showing,  when  seen  from  the  nave  cha- 
pels, their  glass ;  and  when  seen  from 
the  cloister  chapels,  the  dark  piercings 
of  their  openings.  The  arrangement  is 
extremely  picturesque. '  The  transepts 
show  themselves  only  on  the  ground- 
plan,  where  they  form  porches. 

Turning  westwards,  and  noting  the  huge  head 
dangling  from  the  organ,  which  represents  the 
conquest  of  the  Saracens  by  the  Spaniards, 
attention  is  arrested  upon  entering  the  choir 
by  a  massive  facistol  upon  and  around  which 
are  ranged  some  of  the  finest  choir-books  in  the 
Peninsula,  dating  mostly  from  the  12  th  and  13th 
centuries.  One  of  these,  the  set  of  Christmas 
antiphons  known  as  'O,'  should  be  specially 
examined,  for  the  sake  of  its  exquisite  initial 
illuminations.  Large  sums  of  money  have 
been  offered  for  this  splendid  work,  but  in 


vain. 


The  Chair  is  of  good  proportions, 
and  deserves  attention.  The  canopies 
of  the  stalls  of  the  upper  row  are  by  the 
German  sculptors,  Michael  Loker  and 
Johan  Friedrich  (1487).     The  work  is 


most  excellent.  The  pinnacles  and 
canopies  were  pronounced  faulty  by  the 
chapter,  who  did  not  pay  the  sculptor 
the  full  amount  agreed  upon.  The 
lower  row  was  sculptured  by  Matias 
Bonafe,  1483.  In  the  agreement  passed 
between  him  and  the  chapter,  a  curious 
clause  occurs,  by  which  the  sculptor 
was  forbidden  to  introduce  images, 
figures,  or  beasts  of  any  kind,  and  to 
limit  himself  to  the  leaf  ornamentation. 
The  pulpit  is  rich,  but  indifferent.  The 
staircase  leading  to  it,  with  its  arched 
doorway,  traceried  handrail,  and  open 
iron-work  door,  should  be  carefully 
noticed.  On  the  back  of  each  stall  is 
the  painted  shield  of  each  of  the  knights 
of  the  Golden  Fleece,  who  held  in  this 
choir  a  general  assembly  or  chapter, 
presided  over  by  Charles  V.,  March  5, 
1519.  This  was  a  grand  scene,  fit  for  a 
painter  to  take  up.  The  walls  were 
hung  with  rich  tapestries  and  velvets. 
On  one  side  rose  the  vacant  throne, 
canopied  with  black  velvet  hangings  of 
Maximilian  I.  On  the  opposite  side, 
on  one  of  brocade,  sat  Charles  V.,  then 
only  king  of  Spain,  and  around  him 
Christian  King  of  Denmark,  Sigismund 
King  of  Poland,  the  Prince  of  Orange, 
Duke  of  Alba,  of  Frias,  Cruz,  and  the 
flower  of  the  nobility  of  Spain  and 
Flanders.  Kings,  on  entering  Barcelona 
for  the  first  time,  were  obliged  to  take 
the  oath  to  defend  and  never  transgress 
the  popular  laws  (fueros)  of  Barcelona  ; 
the  councils  (Jura)  used  to  take  place 
in  different  parts  of  the  city,  and  before 
the  High  Altar  in  this  cathedral.  When 
Charles  V.,  in  1519,  visited  the  city, 
he  wished  to  be  received,  not  as  a  king, 
but  as  one  6f  the  former  counts  ;  *  for, ' 
said  he,  'I  would  rather  be  count  of 
Barcelona  than  king  of  the  Romans.' 
Several  councils  have  taken  place  here. 
On  June  20, 1525,  Francis  I.  of  France, 
then  a  prisoner,  heard  mass  in  the 
chapel  of  Sta.  Eulalia. 


BARCELONA  — CATHEDRAL. 


i\> 


The  Trascoro  is  a  good  specimen  of 
the  Revival  in  Spain,  and  the  work  of 
Pedro  Vilar  of  Zaragoza,  who  followed 
the  designs  of  Bartolome*  Ordano,  date 
1564.  It  is  composed  of  a  series  of 
bassi-relievi  representing  scenes  from 
the  life  of  Sta.  Eulalia,  on  white  marble, 
and  with  columns  of  the  Doric  order. 

The  tombs  in  the  cathedral  are  mostly 
indifferent.  Close  to  the  sacristy  are 
those  of  Berenguer  el  Viejo  and  Almodis 
his  wife  ;  the  inscriptions  are  modern. 
In  a  chapel,  close  to  that  of  San  Olaguer, 
is  an  elegant  tomb  of  Dona  Sancha  de 
Cabrera,  Senora  de  Novalles ;  a  finer 
one  is  that  of  Bishop  Escalas,  in  the 
Chapel  de  los  Innocents,  very  elaborately 
sculptured,  the  details  of  dress,  beard, 
hair,  etc.,  being  very  delicate— Gothic. 
That  of  San  Olegario,  whose  body  eight 
centuries  have  not  been  able  to  decom- 
pose, is  indifferent ;  his  body  may  be 
easily  seen,  dressed  in  pontificalibus, 
from  the  camarin  of  the  altar. 

The  stained  windows  are  amongst  the 
finest  in  Spain,  and  date  between  1418 
and  1560.     They  are  not  of  large  size, 
but  the  richness  of  their  blues,  purples, 
and  reds,  is  as  fresh  as  when  first  they 
were  painted.     The  chapels  are  indif- 
ferent,   mostly   churrigueresque.     See 
behind  the  apse  (which  is  itself  one  of 
the  best  things  in  the  cathedral)  the 
crucifix  called  Cristo  de  Lepanto.     It 
was  carried  on  the  prow  of  the  flagship 
of  D.  Juan  of  Austria,  at  the  battle  of 
Lepanto.     It  is  violently  inclined,  be- 
cause as  the  Moors  directed  their  mus- 
ketry against  the  sacred  image,    the 
image  turned  aside,  and  thus  avoided 
the  infidels'  bullets.     The  ultra  faithful 
believe  that  the  small  galley  placed  here 
also  moves  and  turns  according  to  the 
wind  I    Amongst  the  curiosities  (curio- 
sidades),  see  an  infant  Jesus,  to  which 
Ferdinand  VII.   gave  the  insignia  of 
field-marshal,  and  his  queen,  Amelie  of 
Saxony,  the  badge  of  Maria  Luisa.    The 


reliquaries  are  fine.  The  paintings,  few 
and  of  no  great  merit,  are — in  Capilla 
de  San  Olegario,  some  pictures  by  Ant. 
Viladomat  (1678  to  1755);  the  rest  in 
this  chapel  also,  and  in  that  of  San 
Pablo  and  San  Marcos,  are  by  Fram 
Tramullas  of  Perpignan,  who  lived  in 
the  18th  century,  and  his  son  Manuel. 
The  cloisters  are  interesting ;  they  were 
begun  by  Roque.  In  1432,  Gual  sue* 
ceeded  him,  and  they  were  finished  in 
1448;  they  were  principally  the  work 
of  Bishop  Sapera.  Observe  the  elegant 
ogival  door  on  the  Calle  del  Obispo,  the 
first  door  to  left,  and  Capilla  de  Sta. 
Lucia ;  this  portion  is  the  oldest  in  the 
whole  edifice.  The  tombs  are  indif- 
ferent Notice,  nevertheless,  that  of 
Mossen  (abbr.  for  Mossenyer,  or  Mon- 
senyor,  my  lord)  Borra,  the  nom  de 
guerra  of  Antonio  Tallander,  the  buffoon 
of  Alfonso  V.  el  Sabio  of  Aragon,  ob.  about 
1433;  see  his  jocose  epitaph,  calling  him 
Milesgloriosus,  and  the  bells  on  his  dress. 
In  the  chapel  of  La  Concepcion  there 
used  to  be  a  picture  ordered  by  the 
municipality  (1651)  to  be  painted  in 
thanksgiving  for  her  intercession  in  be- 
half of  the  city  at  the  time  of  the  plague. 
It  ceased  some  days  after,  and  the  keys 
of  the  city,  made  in  silver  for  the  occa- 
sion, were  presented  to  her.  See  the 
fountain  de  las  Ocas  (of  the  Geese).  It 
stands  in  the  centre  of  a  pleasant  court 
full  of  orange-trees  and  flowers.  Tho 
Bishop's  Palace,  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
cloister,  retains  portions  of  good  lato 
Romanesque  arcading. 

Church  of  Sta.  Maria  del  Mar. — 
This  church  is  preferred  by  some  to  the 
cathedral  in  an  architectural  light.  It 
was  built  on  or  near  the  site  formerly 
occupied  by  a  smaller  church  raised, 
a.d.  1000,  by  Bishop  Accio,  to  keep  the 
body  of  St.  Eulalia  (now  in  cathedral).  It 
was  begun  in  March  1329,  and  is  one  of 
the  few  churches  built  entirely  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  working-classes,  the  bas- 


E 


50 


BARCELONA  —  CHURCHES. 


taixos  or  faqulnes  even  contributing  to  it 
— the  latter  fact  being  recorded  on  the 
door  of  the  principal  facade,  where  there 
are  sculptured  two  small  bronze  figures 
carrying  stone,  wood,  etc.  The  name 
of  the  architect  is  not  known.  In  1379, 
a  great  fire  burnt  up  the  vestry,  altar, 
choir,  and  portion  of  the  roof,  but  by 
the  aid  of  Pedro  IV.  el  Ceremonioso, 
the  church  was  repaired  and  completed, 
Nov.  9,  1383.  The  style  is  Gothic, 
with  a  few  ohurrigueresque  alterations 
in  the  chapels,  etc.  The  church  is  situ- 
ated  in  a  square  ;  the  principal  facade 
is  plain  but  elegant,  with  statues  on  the 
sides  and  over  the  door.  The  rose- 
window  is  very  fine,  and  was  repaired 
after  it  had  been  almost  destroyed  by 
an  earthquake  in  1428.  The  church  is 
divided  into  three  naves,  the  piers  and 
shafts  are  very  lofty  and  elegant, 
the  arches  sharply  pointed ;  the  high 
altar ,  though  it  has  cost  100,000 
ducats,  is  in  bad  taste  and  oat  of 
keeping  with  the  rest ;  it  dates  1637. 
The  choir,  by  a  too  rare  exception,  is 
happily  placed  behind  the  presbytery. 
The  royal  pew,  in  the  south  aisle,  was 
formerly,  when  Sta.  Maria  was  a  royal 
chapel,  connected  by  a  covered  way 
with  the  palace  in  the  adjoining  Plaza 
Palacio.  This  was  destroyed  in  1835 
by  the  populace  upon  the  occasion  of 
General  Bassa's  assassination.  The 
general  style  of  the  church  is  very 
good  and  pure,  the  painted  glass  fine. 
There  are  five  pictures  by  Viladomat, 
representing  scenes  from  the  Passion, 
behind  the  altar,  and  two  others  in 
chapel  de  San  Salvador;  four  pic- 
tures by  Tramullas  (son),  in  chapel 
de  lo8  Corredores  de  Canibio;  a  St. 
Peter,  by  Juan  Arnau  of  Barcelona 
(1595-1693),  in  chapel  of  St.  Peter; 
a  good  statue  of  San  Alejo,  in  the 
Trascoro,  by  A.  Pujol  of  Villafranca, 
about  1643.  The  Virgin  and  Christ 
Dead,  in  same  portion,  is  by  Miguel 
Sala  (1627-1704).  The  sculpture  on 
the  organ  is  of  1560. 


Sta.  Maria  del  Pino,  a  fine  speci- 
men of  the  Gothic,  dates  1 329-1413.  It 
is  also  called  N.  Sra.  de  los  Reyes.  The 
name,  del  Pi,  or  Pino,  pine,  is  derived 
from  a  tradition,  according  to  which  an 
image  of  the  Virgin  was  found  in  a  trunk 
of  a  pine,  some  say  because  the  pine  if 
the  emblem  of  the  Catholic  faith,  ever- 
green, ever  soaring  to  heaven  ;  accord- 
ingly a  pine,  blessed  on  Palm  Sunday,  is 
every  year  placed  on  the  highest  point 
of  the  belfry.  It  is  also  said  that  one 
of  these  trees  was  planted  close  to  it  in 
1768,  and  cut  down  in  1802.  The  church 
is  of  good  proportions  and  elegant.  The 
belfry-tower  is  fine,  massive,  and  very 
lofty.  The  nave  consists  of  seven  bays, 
is  54  ft.  wide  in  the  clear,  and  has  an 
eastern  apse  of  seven  sides,  is  high  and 
spacious,  and  lighted  up  by  good  ogival 
windows  with  stained  glass.  On  the 
altars  of  the  chapels  of  San  Pancracio 
and  San  Clemente,  Jews  had  a  right  to 
take  an  oath  in  any  suit  with  a  Chris- 
tian, validity  of  wills,  etc.  The  prin- 
cipal portal  is  very  rich.  The  relics  are 
curious  and  kept  in  silver  cases,  and 
rich  reliquaries  ;  amongst  them  are  two 
thorns  from  the  crown  of  Jesus,  once  at 
St.  Denis  ;  a  portion  of  Christ's  gar- 
ment ;  a  bit  from  the  pillar  against 
which  He  was  scourged,  etc.  etc.  Be- 
tween the  third  and  fourth  altar,  to  the 
right,  a  tablet  on  the  wall  marks  the 
spot  where  the  Barcelonese  painter, 
Viladomat,  is  buried — ob.  1755. 

The  Church  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception  in  the  Calles  Aragon  and 
Lauria  was  originally  part  of  the  old 
monastery  of  Junqueras  in  Barcelona 
city,  and  dates  from  1210  a.d.  It 
was  pulled  down  in  1869,  and  trans- 
ferred, stone  by  stone,  to  the  present 
site.  The  cloisters  and  the  beautiful 
carving  of  the  new  chapel  of  the 
Blessed  Sacrament  well  repay  a  visit ; 
and  the  church  has  a  small  collection 
of  relics  and  antiquities. 


BARCELONA — PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 


51 


Los  Martires,  or  San  Justo  y  San  Pastor, 

the  earliest  Christian  Church  in  Barcelona,  is  a 
good  specimen  of  Gothic ;  one  nave  lofty  and 
wide;  good  stained  glass;  begun  in  1345.  A 
poor  facade  and  a  pretty  tower  on  one  side. 
The  altar  of  San  Felio  had  the  privilege  of 
serving  for  the  oath,  taken  by  Jews  on  the 
decalogue  placed  upon  it,  also  for  witnesses  of 
wills  made  at  sea  or  battle,  etc.,  and  of  knights 
before  engaging  in  a  '  battala  juzgada,'  not  to 
use  any  but  fair  means,  and  swords  neither 
constellated  nor  enchanted,  etc.  Five  bays ;  an 
apse  of  five  sides.  The  nave  is  43  ft.  6  in.  in 
width  in  the  clear,  by  some  130  in  length.  The 
vaulting  quadripartite,  with  large  bosses  at  the 
intersection  of  the  ribs,  on  which  are  carved 
subjects  from  the  New  Testament.  A  fine  but 
undersized  High  Altar. 

In  the  Church  of  Montesion  (14th  century) 
is  the  flag  (festum)  of  D.  Juan  de  Austria  and 
the  image  of  our  Lady  of  Victory,  both  carried 
by  horse  at  the  battle  of  Lepanto.  In  Santa 
Ana  (1x46)  is  the  tomb  of  Miguel  de  Boera, 
who  fought  at  Ravenna  under  the  Catholic 
king's  reign,  and  commanded  Charles  V.'s 
galleys  at  the  conquests  of  Tripoli,  Bugia, 
Oran,  etc.  The  cloister  is  more  modern  than 
the  other  portions  of  the  church. 

San  Pedro  de  las  Puellas  ('  of  the  Maiden ') 
is  extra-mural,  and  on  the  site  where  Ludovic 
Pio  encamped  his  troops  in  8ox,  and  built  a 
former  church.  It  was  so  called  because 
destined  for  a  nunnery.  The  date  of  its  build- 
ing, and  names  of  founder  and  architect,  are 
unknown;  about  the  beginning  or  middle  of 
the  10th  century  is  the  most  probable ;  the 
circular  dome,  vault  of  S.  transept,  nave,  and 
western  portion  of  the  chancel,  are  the  parts 
that  have  been  the  least  altered.  The  sculpture 
of  the  capitals  is  remarkable,  and  most  Eastern 
in  character.  It  is  said  that  when  the  nuns 
were  aware  of  the  probable  invasion  of  their 
convent  by  Al  Mansour's  soldiers,  who  were 
recruiting  for  the  Balearic  harems,  they  most 
heroically  disfigured  themselves,  to  avoid  this 
shame,  by  cutting  off  their  noses. 

Belen. — A  fine  Italian  church  on  the  Rambla; 
very  rich  marbles ;  Loyola's  sword. 

San  Pablo  del  Campo.— A  most  interesting 
relic  of  the  Catalan  Romanesque  architecture 
of  the  second  period.  This  church — originally 
a  Benedictine  convent,  founded  914  by  the 
Count  of  Barcelona,  Wifred  II. — was  severely 
injured  by  Al  Mansour  in  986,  but  restored  by 
one  G.  Guiterdo  and  his  wife  in  1x17,  in  a  way 
which  has  allowed  it  to  retain  most,  if  not 


every  portion,  of  the  primitive  structure.  It  is 
cruciform,  with  three  parallel  apses,  an  oc- 
tagonal vault  on  pendants  over  the  crossing. 
The  nave  and  transepts  are  covered  with  a 
waggon-vault.  The  W.  front  is  interesting  and 
purely  Byzantine,  with  the  exception  of  the 
circular  window,  which  has  been  added.  Ob- 
serve the  rude  symbolical  sculpture  on  and 
within  the  massive  arch— on  the  sides,  the 
usual  figures  symbolising  the  Evangelists,  and 
above  the  arch  a  hand,  with  a  cruciform 
nimbus,  giving  the  benediction.  The  small 
cloister  on  S.  side  is  of  xxth  century,  very 
Arabic  in  its  details,  cusping,  and  stone  work. 
Observe  a  14th  century  doorway,  W.  of  cloister, 
and  everything,  indeed,  connected  with  this 
important,  though  to  many  tourists  not  striking, 
little  church. 

La  Sagrada  Familia. — Visitors  to 
Barcelona  should  on  no  account  fail  to 
take  a  short  journey  to  the  northern 
suburb,  where,  just  beyond  the  new 
Gran -via  Diagonal,  there  is  rapidly 
rising  the  magnificent  ecclesiastical 
pile  known  as  'La  Sagrada  Familia,' 
the  product  of  alms  of  the  faithful. 
Planning  his  church  upon  late  Gothic 
lines,  and  of  magnificent  proportions, 
the  architect  (Glaudi)  has  resolved  to 
stamp  upon  the  work  his  own  original 
genius  and  the  impress  of  a  superstitious 
age,  and  has  tested  to  breaking  point 
the  capabilities  of  stone  as  a  medium 
of  realistic  legendary  representation. 
Especially  noteworthy  are  the  wonder- 
ful, overgrown  north  and  south  portals, 
reaching  from  ground  to  roof-line :  the 
latter  setting  forth  the  birth  of  Christ 
and  the  legendary  life  of  the  Blessed 
Virgin,  the  former  the  Crucifixion. 
The  entire  cost  of  this  enormous  work 
cannot  be  less  than  a  million  and  a  half 
sterling. 

The  Lonja,  or  Exchange. — This 
building  rises  on  the  site  formerly  called 
'dels  Cambis,'  where  merchants  trans- 
acted business  'al  fresco.'  There  was 
in  very  early  times  an  Exchange  in  all 
the  principal  cities  of  Spain,  such  as 
that  of  Madrid,  established  1652,  Seville 


52 


BARCELONA  —  PUBLIC   BUILDINGS. 


1535,  Burgos  and  Bilbao  1494,  but  the 
Exchange  of  Barcelona  dates  from  about 
1382,  and  was  established  by  Pedro  IV. 
of  Aragon.  The  former  Exchange  was 
situated  near  the  sea,  and  was  built  in 
1357.  There  was  a  chapel  added  to  the 
building  in  1452,  and  a  portico  in  1562. 
Of  this  edifice  nothing  remains  save  the 
hall  (sala),  which  was  finished  in  1383, 
and  escaped  the  general  sweeping  modi- 
fication which  began  its  avenging  work 
in  1772  under  the  Solera.  The  style  of 
the  modern  building  is  the  so-called 
classic,  and  of  the  Tuscan  and  Ionic 
orders.  The  principal  entrance  is  by 
the  plaza  of  the  palace.  The  facade  is 
fine  and  effective,  and  the  whole  edifice 
is  of  stone,  with  marble  here  and  there. 
In  the  court  (patio)  are  statues  symboli- 
cal of  the  four  parts  of  the  world,  and 
several  others  in  the  Hall  of  Sessions, 
etc. — all  modern  and  indifferent,  the 
work  of  Catalonian  sculptors.  The 
Gothic  hall  is  lofty  and  of  good  propor- 
tions, about  116  ft.  long  by  75  ft.  wide. 
Men  of  business  meet  here  daily  from 
1  till  4  p.m. 

Casa  de  la  Diputacion. — Built  in 
the  beginning  of  the  15th  century — 
was  considerably  enlarged  at  different 
epochs,  which  explains  the  variety  of 
styles,  taste,  and  execution  exhibited. 
It  was  destined  and  served  as  a  popular 
local  institution  for  the  Commons  of 
Catalufla,  until  abolished  by  Philip  V. 
in  1714.  The  name  of  the  architect  of 
the  first  plan  is  not  known.  About 
1598,  a  great  portion  of  the  edifice  had 
to  be  pulled  down  for  enlargement,  but 
Pedro  Blay,  the  architect  who  carried 
on  the  works,  left  fortunately  intact  the 
best  portions  of  the  primitive  building, 
such  as  the  lateral  facade  of  St.  George, 
in  Calle  del  Obispo,  the  gallery  round 
the  court  of  the  orange-trees,  and  the 
garden.  The  Roman  or  classic  facade, 
seen  from  the  Plaza  San  Jaime  is  not 
elegant,  but  heavy,  clumsy,  and  out  of 


keeping.  The  work  of  Blay  extends 
from  this  facade  to  the  beginning  of  the 
grand  staircase ;  th«  older  portion  be- 
gins at  the  patio.  The  front  of  the 
chapel  of  St.  George  is  fine.  In  the 
centre  is  a  small  ogival  door,  between 
two  pointed  windows  separated  by  pil- 
larets ;  the  wall  between  is  worked  out 
like  a  damask  cloth  in  relievo,  and  is  of 
two  different  patterns.  This  is  crown- 
ed with  delicate  foliage,  and  a  series  of 
animals,  of  indifferent  execution  and 
out  of  place.  Over  them  rise  ogival, 
placed  within  circular,  arches,  and  orna- 
mented on  the  sides  with  cherubs'  heads, 
and  surmounted  by  an  antepecho  balus- 
traded  with  Gothic  open-work,  tending 
in  character  to  the  plateresque.  In  the 
centre  of  a  medallion  is  rudely  sculp- 
tured St.  George  and  the  Dragon  ;  there 
are  four  Evangelists  at  the  angles.  The 
galleries,  however  much  admired  for 
their  ingenious  construction,  were  evi- 
dently the  contrary,  as  the  pillars,  al- 
ready bent  under  the  ill-calculated 
weight,  show  too  well.  The  chapel  it- 
self is  uninteresting,  though  in  it  are 
preserved  some  curious  antiguallas, 
such  as  the  frontal  of  St.  George,  on 
which  is  represented  his  struggle  with 
a  lion  in  defence  of  a  maiden.  St. 
George  was  the  tutelar  of  the  Diputacion, 
as  tradition  would  have  it  that  he  fought 
the  Moors  in  behalf  of  the  Aragonese 
and  Catalans,  and  there  used  to  be 
jousts  and  tournaments  on  St.  George's 
Day,  which  latter  is  kept  up  every  year. 
In  the  Salones  del  Tribunal  of  the  Audi- 
encia  are  some  rich  artesonados  of  the 
15th  century,  and  good,  but  worn-out 
and  effaced,  tapestries.  The  portraits 
of  the  kings  of  Spain,  beginning  with 
Ataulfus,  are  prior  to  the  16th  century. 
See,  too  (Salon  de  Sesiones),  a  good  but 
unfinished  painting  by  Fortuny,  the 
great  Catalan  artist,  representing  the 
battle  of  Tetuan.  There  are  other 
salones  and  halls,  all  modern  and  indif- 


BARCELONA — PRIVATE  BUILDINGS. 


63 


ferent    Observe  from  Calle  del  Obispo 
the  elegant  Gothic  facade  of  St  George. 

The  Town  Hall  (Casas  Consistori- 
ales)  is  Gothic,  of  1373 ;  the  patio  is 
fine,  the  principal  facade  modern.  The 
Council  Chamber  (Salon  de  Ciento), 
92  ft  x  45  ft,  contains  a  series  of  por- 
traits of  Catalan  celebrities.  In  the 
Municipal  Archives  are  a  valuable  col- 
lection of  documents,  dating  from  1300. 
See  especially  the  Rubrica  de  Bruni- 
quer,  the  Libre  vert,  and  Libre  vermeil, 
containing  the  ancient  royal  privileges, 
fueros,  etc.,  of  the  city. 

A  few  steps  N.  of  the  Diputacion 
lies  the  Plaza  del  Rey,  with  the  note- 
worthy Archivo  General  de  la  Coronn 
de  Aragon  on  the  W.  (open  9-1 :  a 
great  store  of  valuable  documents). 
Here  was  situated  the  (12th  century) 
palace  of  the  Counts  of  Barcelona, 
portions  of  which  are  all  around.  The 
former  Salon  de  Embajadores  is  now 
the  church  of  Sta.  Clara.  The  chapel 
of  Sta.  Agueda  was  the  former  royal 
chapel,  and  exhibits  fine  specimens  of 
the  early  Gothic.  It  is  now  the  Museo 
Arqueologico  provincial,  with  over 
1000  specimens  of  Roman  sculpture, 
mosaics,  pottery,  etc.,  and  deserves  a 
visit. 

The  University.  —  A  conspicuous 
pile  of  buildings  of  $"Mosi-Byzantine 
character,  dating  from  1873,  stands 
in  the  C<Srtes,  near  the  PI.  Catalufla. 
While  leaving  much  to  be  desired  in 
the  way  of  curriculum,  this  is  perhaps 
the  most  advanced  of  all  Spanish 
universities,  with  a  staff  of  really 
enlightened  professors,  some  2500 
students  and  a  fair  library  of  200,000 
vols,  and  MSS.  It  has  upwards  of  80 
primary  schools  attached  to  it.  Every 
attention  is  paid  to  visitors.  See 
especially  the  fine  staircase,  the  Para- 
ninfo,  Sala  Rectoral,  paintings  of  the 
modern  Spanish  school,  and  MSS.  in 
the  library. 


Private  Buildings — There  are 
many  mansions  of  the  14th  and  15th 
centuries  well  worth  visiting.  The 
Casa  Dalmases,  Calle  Moncada  20,  has 
a  notable  facade  and  most  exquisite 
Renaissance  patio ;  also  some  fine  but 
sadly  neglected  salas  within.  In  the 
same  street  are  several  other  specimens 
of  Italian  and  transitional  Gothic  man- 
sions of  the  Middle  Ages,  but  none  so 
fine  as  the  Dalmases.  .  The  houses  ot 
Gralla  and  Despla  have  lost  most 
of  their  ancient  magnificence.  The 
former  was  built  about  1306  by  the 
well-known  Aragonese  architect,  Da- 
mian  Forment  The  interesting  Casa 
de  Dusay  stands  on  the  site  of  a  castle 
where  the  Wall  Ghamir  was  confined  ; 
but  the  patio  is  no  longer  that  which 
Forment  built  at  the  beginning  of  the 
16th  century.  The  Casa  Cardonas, 
close  to  the  Bajada  de  San  Miguel,  has 
a  fine  patio,  good  artesonados  and 
windows,  and  a  noble  staircase.  Right 
opposite  the  Capilia  de  Sta.  Lucia 
(S.W.  corner  of  the  cathedral  cloisters) 
stands  the  Casa  del  Areediano,  with  a 
patio,  columns,  and  central  fountain 
deserving  a  visit.  At  No.  21  Calle  de 
la  Corribia  is  the  Casa  del  Gremio  de 
ZapateroSy  with  a  Renaissance  facade 
of  1545.  The  old  hospital  of  Sta. 
Cruz,  in  the  Calle  del  Hospital,  can 
boast  of  a  fine  shady  old  patio  and 
ancient  doorway. 

The  older  portion  of  the  city  lay 
about  the  present  cathedral.  The  line 
of  fortifications  followed  this  course — 
Calle  de  la  Tapineria,  Escalas  de  la 
Seu,  Plaza  Nueva  (here  there  was  a 
gate  to  N.W.  flanked  by  towers),  then 
behind  la  Palla,  Calle  des  Banys,  el 
Call,  to  the  palace,  Plaza  de  Arrieros, 
and,  continuing  by  the  upper  part  of 
the  high  ground  still  visible  here,  by 
Calle  de  Basea  and  San  Justo  to  join 
and  meet  the  other  extremity  of  the 
circuit  at  the  Arco  de  la  Bajada  de  la 


54 


BARCELONA PROMENADES. 


Carcel.  In  a  house  No.  10  Calle  de 
Paradis,  behind  the  apse  of  the 
cathedral,  is  a  remarkable  series  of 
six  Roman  columns  and  an  architrave, 
usually  assigned  to  a  'Temple  of 
Hercules'  (!),  more  probably  the  re- 
mains of  some  great  public  work. 
There  are  magnificent  cloacre,  a  work 
ascribed  to  the  Scipios,  which  run  un- 
der the  Rambla  (from  Rami  and  Ram- 
bula,  rivula),  and  through  which  a 
man  on  horseback  can  easily  pass.  Of 
Arab  architecture  there  are  no  monu- 
ments, and  the  five  Moorish  baths  in 
Calle  del  Banys  Frets  have  long  dis- 
appeared. The  Roman  amphitheatre 
was  close  to  Calle  Fernando,  of  which 
the  vomitoria  looked  on  the  present 
Calle  Boqueria. 

The  Park  (Parque  y  Jardines  de  la 
Ciudadcla),  situated  at  the  eastern 
extremity  of  the  city,  and  occupying 
75  acres  of  ground,  with  avenues  of 
magnolias  and  exotic  shrubs,  palm- 
houses  and  conservatories,  really  de- 
serves the  title  of  botanical  gardens. 
La  Cindadela  was  a  pentagonal  citadel, 
a  la  Van  ban,  built  by  Philip  V.  when 
besieging  the  city  in  1714,  and  was 
capable  of  holding  8,000  to  10,000  men  ; 
the  suburb  of  Barceloneta  being  con- 
structed by  royal  order,  in  1755,  to 
compensate  for  the  2000  houses  and 
churches  destroyed  to  make  room  for 
it.  It  was  razed  in  1868,  the  chapel 
was  turned  into  a  Panteon  de  Catalanes 
ilustres,  and  a  portion  of  the  barracks 
has  been  converted  into  a  royal  palace. 
Within  the  precincts  of  the  Park  and 
in  the  adjoining  Paseo  Pajares  and 
Salon  San  Juan  are  the  Museo  Mar- 
torell,  the  Museo  de  Historia,  and  the 
Museo  de  Reproducciones  (see  p.  55), 
the  magnificent  new  Palais  do  Justice, 
the  Bellas  Artes,  where  exhibitions  of 
paintings  are  held  from  time  to  time, 
and  the  triumphal  arch  erected  by 
Vilaseca  as  entrance  to  the  1868  Ex- 
hibition. The  fine  cascade  in  the 
centre  of  the  Park,  with  its  small 
aquarium,  is  worth  noting. 


Theatres. — The   Liceo,    or  Opera- 
house,  has  been  rebuilt  on  the  site, 
and  we  believe  the  same  proportions 
as  the  former,  which  was  burnt  down. 
It  is  on  the  model  of  La  Scala  of  Milan, 
but  larger  than  either  it  or  the  San 
Carlo   of  Naples,    and    accommodates 
upwards  of   4000  spectators  at  their 
ease ;  the  boxes  are  large,   and  well 
adapted  to  show  off  dresses  :  first-rate 
Italian  opera  in  winter.     Ladies  gener- 
ally attend  with  bonnets  on  the  lower 
tiers  ;  half-dress  is  usual.     Gentlemen 
can  dress  ad  libitum.     The  principal 
boxes,  being  private  property,  can  sel- 
dom or  never  be  obtained.      Teatro 
Principal    A  pretty  theatre  ;  Spanish 
comedy,  drama  and  dancing,  opposite 
to    Hotel   do    las    Cuatro    Naciones. 
The   theatres   in   the    Ensanche,    the 
Lirico,     Novedades,     Cataluna,     etc., 
should  bo  visited.     They  alone  arc  open 
all  the  year  round.    Bull-fights.  — These 
are  very  inferior  here  to  those  in  An- 
dalusia, Madrid,  etc.,  and  Catalans  are 
no  lovers  of  tauromachia.     The  Plaza 
was  built  in  1833,  on  the  plan  of  that 
at  Madrid  ;  it  holds  10,000  spectators. 
The  Carnival  is  very  gay.     The  local 
great   holidays   are    Feb.    12th,    Sta. 
Eulalia,  tutelar  of  the  city  (go  to  Sar- 
ria,  etc.);  Jan.  17,  San  Antonio,  horse- 
races ;  April  23,  San  Jorge  (the  fete 
takes  place  in  gardens,  courts,  chapel 
of  the  Audiencia) ;  on  Easter  Monday, 
at  Coll  and  Gracia,  great  merriment, 
fairs,  booths,  etc.     Club. — There  is  a 
very  good  Ateneo,  comfortably  fitted 
up,  foreign  papers  and  reviews  taken 
in ;  presentation  by  a  member  neces- 
sary; several  public-reading  rooms,  but 
no  English  papers. 

Directory — Apothecaries.  — Borrell, 
Calle  Conde  del  Asalto ;  Tomas  Sanchio, 
Rambla  del  Centro,  31  ;  Grau  (homoeo- 
pathic),  Calle  Union,  8.     Bankers. 

Credit  Lyonnais,  Rambla  del  Centro 
(all  kinds  of  banking  and  change  busi- 


BARCELONA. 


55 


ness).  Bath9. — Pasaje  de  la  Paz,  3^ 
Rarabla  de  Estudios,  9 ;  from  8r.  to 
10r.,  linen  included,  both  good. 
Booksellers. — Verdaguer,  Lopez,  and 
Bonnebanlt,  all  on  Rambla.  Cafes. — 
Coffee-houses  at  Barcelona  are  large 
establishments,  fitted  up  with  great 
luxury ;  and  ices,  agraz,  horchata,  are 
very  well  prepared.  The  handsomest 
and  most  frequented  are  the  Colon  and 
Alhambra  (Plaza  de  Cataluna),  the 
Suizo  (Rambla  del  Centro),  the  Barce- 
lona, the  Novedades,  the  Continental 
Waiters  are  called  by  clapping  one's 
hands.  There  are  some  good  restaur- 
ants. The  best  are  the  Paris,  in  the 
Plaza  Real ;  the  Leon  de  Oro,  Rambla 
Sta.  Monica  ;  and  Martin,  Rambla  del 
Centro.  Gh'ocer,  etc.,  Martignole, 
Escudillers,  10 ;  Parent,  Rambla  del 
Centro  and  C.  Ancha.  Confectioner, 
Llibre,  comer  of  Calle  Fernando  and 
Rambla.  Blondes  and  Lace. — Fiter, 
Plaza  Real,  1  ;  Jaime  Viv&,  Calle  Fer- 
nando. Silks. — Fine  Spanish  produce, 
manufactured  in  Catalonia  and  Valen- 
cia, etc.,  and  foreign  —  Escuder,  Calle 
Fernando.  Glovers. — El  Siglo,  Rambla 
de  Estudios. 

Consuls.—  Brit.  Consulate,  C.  Plata, 
7,  J.  F.  Roberts,  Esq.,  F.G.S. ;  F.  Witty, 
Esq.,  V. -Consul;  J.  W.  Witty,  Esq., 
Pro-Consul.  U.S.A.,  H.  Bowen,  Esq., 
Rambla  Sta.  Monica,  2. 

English  Churchy  345  Calle  Cortes, 
Sun.  11  a.m.,  5  p.m.  Chaplain,  Rev. 
G.  F.  Jackson,  M.A. 

Seamen's  Institute,  8  Calle  Cristina, 
on  the  harbour. 

Doctors. — Dr.  B.  Robert,  Calle  Cortes, 
248;  Dr.  Rodr.  Mendoz,  Paseo  de 
Gracia,  90 ;  Dr.  Bonet,  Paseo  de  Gracia, 
24  ;  Dr.  Cardenal,  Pasaje  de  Mercader, 
13. 

Money  -  changers.  —  Several ,  equally 
good,  on  the  Rambla.  N.  B.  —French 
gold  and  silver  current  Perfumer. — 
Lafont,  5  Calle  Fernando.     Wines.— 


The  Catalonian  wines  are  strong,  not 
yery  delicate,  but  rich  and  juicy. 
Beni-Carlo  is  sent  to  France,  where  it 
is  mixed  with  very  light  Bordeaux. 
This  red  wine  is  susceptible  of  ameli- 
oration. Malvasia  de  Sitjes,  Rioja, 
Atella,  Cullera,  Priorato,  ought  to  be 
tasted. 

Museums,  Libraries,  Picture  Galler- 
ies, etc. — The  finest  museum  is  the  ad- 
mirably arranged  and  classified  Museo 
Martorell,  in  the  Park,  with  its  fine 
zoological  and  mineralogical  collections, 
open  all  day  long,  on  payment  of  small 
fee.  Close  by  is  the  Museo  de  la 
Historia  (archaeological),  open  on  Sun. 
and  Thurs.,  free,  9-1,  3-5  ;  also  the 
Museo  de  Reproducciones,  the  grand 
central  salon  of  the  1888  Exhibition, 
containing  some  2800  specimens,  chiefly 
plaster  casts.  The  Archivo  Genl.  de 
Aragon  (see  p.  53)  is  one  of  the  most 
important  archives  in  Europe,  It  was 
established  by  Pedro  IV.  del  Punyalet. 
The  admirable  classification  is  due  to 
the  late  keeper  of  the  archives.  The 
documents  date  from  the  9th  century. 
This  establishment  is  publishing  a  col- 
lection of  political  and  administrative 
documents  of  great  value.  Free  ad- 
mittance. Biblioteca  Arus,  Paseo  San 
Juan,  152,  with  fine  Heading  Rooms. 
Free  admission,  9-12  a.m.,  3-5  p.m. 
About  25,000  vols.,  with  valuable  in- 
cunables  and  MSS.  Episcopal  Library, 
adjoining  the  Cathedral,  15,000  vols., 
2000  MSS.  of  Spanish  romance  ;  coins, 
specimens  of  minerals  and  natural 
history.  The  library  of  the  Ateneo 
(the  Casino)  on  the  Rambla,  Plaza  del 
Teatro,  7,  15,000  vols.  ;  fine  rooms; 
admission  only  by  a  member.  The 
Biblioteca  del  Seminario  Conciliar,  in 
the  Calle  Diputacion,  18,000  vols. 
BibliotecasPopulares (-people' a  libraries), 
Calle  Alta  de  San  Pedro,  and  in  the 
Casas  Consistoriales.  The  Museo  Es- 
trueh,  No.    24   Rambla  de  Cataluiia, 


56 


BARCETXWA— SUBURBS. 


open  10-12  and  2-4  (admission  50  c, 
catalogue  pes.  1),  con  tains  an  extensive 
collection  of  Phoenician,  Carthaginian, 
Roman,  and  Moorish  weapons,  suits  of 
armour,  etc.,  together  with  specimens 
of  fine  Toledo  work,  and  flags. 

Cab-fares  (Coches  de  plaza,  car- 
rttajes). — These  are  conveniently  regu- 
lated by  three  zones,  the  first  compris- 
ing the  city  proper,  the  second  the 
suburbs,  the  third  all  outlying  places. 
The  tariff  for  the  first,  including  the 
city  and  the  Ensanche,  is  as  follows : — 


With  i  horse,  by  course 
(carrera)  .  .  .  . 
With  i  horse,  by  hour  . 
With  a  horses,  by  course 
With  a  horses,  by  hour . 


PERSONS. 

i  or  a 

3 

4 

i  p. 

2    M 

•  • 

•  • 

I.50  p. 
2.50  „ 

2          „ 

3-50  „ 

1.75  P. 
2-75  » 

Night  faros  (from  11  p.m.  to  7  A.  to.) 
are  half  as  much  more.  Beyond  four 
persons  the  usual  rate  is  50  c.  per 
person.  The  two-horse  tariff  is  for 
1-4  persons.  The  second  zone,  includ- 
ing Moutjuioh,  Gracia,  Clot,  etc.,  is 
rather  more  than  double  the  inner  circle. 
The  third  zone — all  outlying  places — 
necessitates  a  bargain,  say  3.50  pes. 
per  hour  for  one  person,  5  pes.  for  two 
or  more.  In  case  of  dispute  the  driver 
can  be  compelled  to  take  his  fare,  free 
of  charge,  to  the  alcaldia.  The  first 
hour  is  paid  for  even  if  not  completed  : 
succeeding  hours  are  reckoned  as  half- 
hours. 

Trams  (steam,  horse,  electric)  run 
in  all  directions,  even  to  outlying 
suburbs,  every  few  minutes,  with  10  c. 
fares  for  the  city  (15  c.  on  Sun.  and 
holidays). 

The  Suburbs.— Visit  the  barrio,  or 
quarter,  of  Barceloneta  S.E.  of  the  city, 
with  the  plage  and  bathing  -  places. 
This  suburb  (see  p.  54)  is  built  on  a 
regular  plan,  with  houses  of  similar 
shape  and  size,  and  contains  a  popula- 
tion of  15,000,  mostly  sea  faring  and 
lower  classes.  The  old  Cemetery,  lying 
out  beyond  the  Estacion  de  Francia 


and  the  Bull -ring,  is  curious,  and 
repays  a  walk  or  drive  along  a  dusty 
road.  The  new  Cemetery,  on  the 
southern  slope  of  Montjuich,  should 
also  be  visited.  Omnibuses  ran  from 
the  Colon  monument,  20  c.  fare,  the 
road  lying  mostly  along  the  shore, 
with  splendid  views.  The  cemetery  is 
constructed  in  terraces,  and  boasts 
of  very  costly  and  fine  monuments. 
Ordinary  tourists,  however,  in  search 
of  scenery,  will  prefer  a  drive  through 
the  beautiful  outlying  suburbs  of 
Pedralves  (suppressed  Franciscan  mon- 
astery ;  fine  14th  century  church ;  open- 
air  chapel  of  N.S.  de  Lourdes,  gay  with 
flowers),  Sarrid  (beautiful  country, 
houses  and  gardens,  restaurant  Parque 
de  la  Montana,  views),  Bona  Nova,  and 
Gracia.  If  possible,  a  further  excursion 
should  be  made  over  the  whole  circle 
of  hills  closing  in  Barcelona  from  N. 
to  W.,  beginning  at  the  Ermita  San 
Pedro  de  Martir,  proceeding  by  Valvi- 
drera  (good  hotels,  De  Buenos  Aires, 
Panorama ;  fine  scenery,  good  old 
church  and  paintings,  Pantano,  etc.) 
to  Tibidado,  the  highest  point  over- 
looking city,  plain,  and  sea,  returning 
vid  Gracia  or  Bona  Nova.  Trains  run 
to  Sarria  from  the  Plaza  de  Cataluna 
every  20  min.,  from  whence  omnibuses 
and  trains  go  to  Pedralves  and  Gracia. 
From  Sarria  station,  too,  an  omnibus 
plies  to  Valvidrera  (fare  1  pes.,  1.50 
pes.  return),  from  whence  San  Pedro 
Martir  and  Tibidado  may  be  easily 
visited  on  foot.  About  four  miles  over 
the  hills  beyond  Tibidado  lies  the 
beautifully  placed  village  of  Sail  Cugat, 
with  an  interesting  13th  century  church 
and  cloister. 

N.  B. — Visitors  interested  in  sport  should  see 
the  Velodrome  at  Bona  Nova,  the  covered 
Fronton  Condal  in  the  Calle  Rosellon  (holds 
5000  people,  games  played  at  night  by  electric 
light),  and  the  older  Fronton  Barcelones  in  the 
Calle  Diputacion. 

MONSERRAT. 

An  excursion  to  this  celebrated  monastery 
and  mountain  ought  not  to  be  omitted.  The 
most  direct  plan  is  to  take  the  train  from  the 
Estacion  del  Norte  (Calle  de  Vilanova)  to 
Monistrol,  on  the  Zaragoza  line,  and  from 
thence  the  funicular  to  the  monastery.  Through 
fares  are  issued  in  Barcelona  (at  the  station  or 


BARCELONA— EXCURSIONS. 


57 


at  the  Despacho  on  the  Rambla)  at  the  follow- 
ing rates : — ist  class  (return),  pes.  15  ;  2d  class, 
pes.  10.15 ;  3d  class,  pes.  7.50  Leaving  Bar- 
celona at  7.35  a.m.,  the  traveller  arrives  at  the 
monastery  at  11.35,  anc*  leaving  at  5.35  may  be 
back  in  Barcelona  at  9.25.  Another  route  is 
by  rail  to  Martorell  in  1-1}  hrs.  (fares  pes.  3.25, 
pes.  2.35)  carriage  (daily  diligence  in  summer) 
to  Collbato*  in  3  hrs.,  and  from  thence  mules  or 
walk  up  to  the  monastery  in  9  hrs.,  or  vi&  San 
Jeroninw  in  a  hrs.  Tickets  for  the  whole 
journey,  including  horse  or  mule,  about  8  pes. 
each  way,  may  be  obtained  at  the  Despacho 
Central  or  the  Estacion  de  Francia.  About 
half  way  up  the  mountain  side  are  a  number  of 

Srottoes  going  by  fantastic  names — 'Tocador 
e  las  Silhdes,'  'Boca  del  Infierno,'  'Salon  del 
Absido  gdtico,'  ^ '  Gruta  del  Elefante,'  etc.  — 
which  may  be  visited  en  route,  or  form  a  sepa- 
rate excursion  (guide  from  Collbat6). 

The  principal  sights  at  Monserrat  can  be 
seenin  one  long  day,  returning  to  Barcelona 
at  night;  but  two  days  will  fatigue  less,  and 
leave  time  for  the  ascent  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  (not  to  be  omitted  if  possible).  The 
inn  at  Collbat6  is  fair.  At  Monserrat  visitors 
are  assigned  rooms  in  the  Hospederia}  but 
meals  must  be  taken  in  the  Fonda  adjoining. 
A  stay  of  three  days  may  be  made,  or  longer  by 
special  permission.  Payment  is  made  by  a 
donation,  5  pesetas  a  day  being  usual. 

Description.  — •  Monserrat,  Mons  Serratus, 
or  the  Jagged  Mountain,  is  so  called  from 
its  form  ;  it  is  about  8  leagues  in  circum- 
ference, and  the  pinnacles  range  some  3500 
ft.  high.  It  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
shrines  in  Spain,  and  is  visited  by  over  100,000 
pilgrims  each  year.  At  present  there  are  a 
score  of  monks  who  carry  on  a  school  of  ecclesi- 
astical music.  According  to  the  legend,  Bishop 
Gondemar,  hearing  a  report  spread  by  some 
shepherds  that  mysterious  lights  were  seen, 
and  music  heard,  both  coming  from  the  Jagged 
Mountain,  visited  it  in  880  to  find  out  the 
truth.  A  small  statue  of  the  Virgin  was  dis- 
covered in  a  grotto.  This  image  (the  one  now 
here)  is  said  to  be  the  work  of  St.  Luke,  and 
to  have  been  brought  to  Spain  by  St.  Peter. 
It  was  concealed  here  by  the  Bishop  of 
Barcelona  when  the  Arabs  invaded  Catalufta. 
As  it  was  being  carried  to  Manresa  by  the 
bishop,  he  soon  fancied  he  discovered  strong 
and  weighty  proof  that  it  was  the  statue's  par- 
ticular wish  not  to  travel  farther.  An  altar  was 
then  raised,  a  chapel  built,  and  an  anchorite 
placed  to  watch  over  it.  Now  the  devil  came 
en  personne  to  inhabit  a  grotto  close  by,  with 
the  determination  to  lead  astray  the  pious  man. 
Wilfred,  then  Count  of  Barcelona,  had  a  beau- 
tiful daughter,  Riquilda,  who,  having  become 
possessed  by  the  evil  spirit,  declared  that  the 
latter  would  not  leave  ner  until  Juan  Guar  in, 
the  godly  anchorite,  gave  him  leave  to  do  so. 
The  count  then  took  her  to  the  hermit,  and 
left  her  to  his  care.  Guarin  was  perversely 
inspired,  and  finally  cut  her  head  off,  and 
buried  the  body.  Guarin,  all  repentance, 
parted  company  with  his  wicked  friend,  and 
fled  to  Rome.  The  Pope  gave  him  absolu- 
tion, but  ordered  him  to  return  to  Monserrat, 


never  to  look  up  to  heaven,  and  live,  walk, 
and  feed  like  the  beasts,  without  uttering 
a  word.  Heaven  seems  to  have  confirmed  the 
Pope's  verdict,  for  shortly  after  he  was  turned 
into  a  wild  beast.  The  huntsmen  of  Count 
Wilfred  captured  the  strange  animal,  and  took 
him  to  the  palace,  where  he  became  a  great 
lion.  But  not  long  after,  at  a  banquet  given 
by  the  count,  the  wild  beast  being  introduced 
for  the  gaze  of  the  guests,  a  child  cried  out  to 
it,  '  Arise.  Juan  Guarin  ;  thy  sins  are  pardoned 
thee.'  The  beast  then  became  once  more  the 
former  Monserrat  anchorite,  and  was  pardoned 
by  the  count ;  moreover,  a  search  made  by  the 
father  and  Guarin,  led  to  the  discovery  of  fair 
RiquHda,  who,  notwithstanding  having  had 
her  throat  cut  and  being  buried  for  eight  years 
in  a  deep  hole,  reappeared  alive,  and  with  only 
a  red  rim  on  her  throat,  more  like  a  silk  thread 
than  a  wound,  and  more  becoming  than  other- 
wise. Count  Wilfred  founded  a  nunnery,  of 
which  Riquilda  became  the  lady  abbess,  and 
Guarin  head  butler  or  mayor  dome.  The 
miracles  performed  by  the  holy  image  at- 
tracted thousands  of  pilgrims,  and  the  nuns 
were  removed  and  monks  placed  in  their  stead. 
It  has  been  ever  since  a  favourite  shrine 
with  kings,  popes,  great  captains,  etc.,  and 
was  especially  patronised  during  the  15th  and 
1 6th  centuries.  The  Tesoro  of  the  Virgin  was 
truly  magnificent,  and  amounted  to  upwards  of 
200,000  ducats.  The  ostensorium  given  by 
Philibert  of  Savoy  contained  upwards  of  1000 
diamonds,  100  pearls,  100  sapphires,  opals, 
etc.  One  of  her  numberless  crowns  was  en- 
riched with  2500  emeralds.  Don  Juan  of 
Austria  placed  around  it  the  flags  and  banners 
he  had  captured  at  Lepanto ;  and  when  Philip 
V.  visited  the  chapel  there  were  no  precious 
lamps  of  massive  silver  before  the  altar.  Most 
of  the  riches  were  carried  away  when  Suchet's 
troops  kept  garrison  at  the  monastery  for  three 
months.  Portions  of  the  buildings  were  pulled 
down,  the  library  burnt,  and  the  monks  hanged, 
or  hunted  out  of  their  cells.  In  1827,  Ferdi- 
nand VII.  granted  ^5000  for  the  reconstruc- 
tion of  the  edifices ;  and  Queen  Isabella,  on 
her  visit  in  1857,  made  the  Virgin  several 
presents  and  left  money.  The  former  church 
and  monastery  no  longer  exist ;  the  only 
vestige  is  a  Byzantine  portal  and  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  Gothic  cloisters  of  1476.  The  present 
convent  is  well  situated.  The  cluster  of  buildings, 
some  of  them  eight  storeys  high,  is  placed  on  a 
terrace  overlooking  a  gorge,  where  rocks  are 
jumbled  together  in  Salvator  Rosa  style,  leav- 
ing vistas  of  plains  coloured  with  a  greyish 
yellow,  and  dark  forests  scattered  in  the  dis- 
tance. At  the  back  there  are  lofty  and  preci- 
pitous masses  of  conical  rocks  rising  to  a  great 
height.  The  Llobregat  winds  through  the 
plain  below,  and  the  background  of  this  grand 
tableau  is  formed  by  the  distant  Pyrenees, 
blending  with  the  clouds. 

The  visitor  need  not  spend  a  long  time  over 
the  monastery,  looking  carefully,  however,  at 
the  facade  and  cloister  (15th  cent.)  of  the  old 
church  which  he  passes  on  the  left  as  he  goes 
from  the  Despacho  de.Aposentos  to  the  newer 
group  of  ecclesiastical  buildings,  and  also  at 


58 


BASQUE  PROVINCES. 


the  small  museum  of  archaeological  remains 
collected  in  the  Aposentos  de  San  Placido. 
The  church  of  the  Monasterio  actual  occupies 
the  eastern  side  of  the  arcaded  Pdrtico  moderno, 
and  is  Renaissance  in  style,  a  single  nave  225 
ft.  long  (1560-1592)  with  a  Romanesque  apse 
added  in  18 8a  The  Santa  Imogen  (see  p.  57) 
stands  above  the  high  altar,  and  is  shown  at 
jo  a.m.  The  Camartn,  or  wardrobe,  of  the 
Virgin  is  in  the  sacristy,  adjoining  which  is  the 
entrance  to  the  crypt,  where  the  brethren  are 
interred.  The  retablo  is  the  work  of  Esteban 
Jordan,  the  reja  by  Cristobal  de  Salamanca 

&5?8>- .  .      . 

Coming  out  of  the  church,  and  turning  im- 
mediately to  the  right,  we  find  a  narrow  passage 
leading  to  the  pretty  garden,  commanding  most 
extensive  views,  and  with  the  little  chapels  of 
San  Acislo  and  Santa  Victoria  in  the  foreground. 
From  here  a  broad  path,  the  Camino  de  los 
Degotalls,  runs  round  the  hillside  to  a  series  of 
grottoes  {degotalls, *  drops  ')>  and  forms  the  most 
charming  of  promenades.  Returning  now  to 
the  station,  the  visitor  should  take  the  Collbat6 
bridle-path,  and  proceed  to  the  Capilla  de  San 
Miguel,  situated  at  the  edge  of  the  mountain 
as  it  trends  back  towards  Collbatd.  From  here 
a  path  descends  to  the  Mirador  and  the  Cueva 
de  la  Virgen,  both  of  which  afford  the  most 
glorious  views  over  the  valley  of  the  Llobregat. 
Returning  to  San  Miguel,  we  rind  a  narrow 
path  bending  back  towards  the  monastery,  a 
little  above  the  Collbato  road,  which  leads  us  by 
way  of  the  niche  of  San  Gari.  or  Guarin  (see 
p.  57).  The  entrance  is  marked  by  a  black 
cross,  and  within  the  little  cave  is  a  lifelike 
figure  of  the  saint,  reclining  on  his  side  with  a 
skull  (his  own  skull)  in  his  hand. 

Here,  probably,  will  end  a  hurried  visit  to 
Monserrat ;  but  the  finest  part  of  the  mountain 
is  its  upper  portion,  the  imposing  Turd  de  San 
Gerdninto  and  El  Mirador,  which  call  for  a 
second  day.  The  direct  path  lies  up  the  ravine 
(Valle  Maid)  opening  upon  the  road  opposite 
the  station  (guide  unnecessary),  and  affords  a 
fine  climb  of  two  hours  by  the  Torrente  de  Sta, 
Maria,  with  splendid  views  and,  in  spring,  a 


wonderful  flora.  Or  we  may  proceed  again 
to  the  San  Miguel  chapel,  and  turn  gently  up  to 
the  right,  five  minutes  beyond  the  sanctuary, 
at  a  finger-post  indicating  the  road  to  Collbato. 
The  two  hours'  climb  from  this  point  leads  us 
past  the  various  old  hermitages  —  Santiago, 
Santa  Catalina,  San  Onofre,  Santa  Magdalena, 
etc.  Above  the  Ermita  de  Sta.  Ana -we  reach 
the  Valle  Mala,  and  proceed  upwards  as  by  the 
first-named,  shorter  route  from  the  monastery. 
From  May  to  October  there  is  a  fair  restaurant 
opened  at  the  San  Jer6nimo  Hermitage.  Viewed 
from  here,  the  jagged  formation  of  the  mountain 
gives  tremendous  effect  to  the  scene.  The  Tor- 
rente  which  divides  the  whole  into  two  portions 
serves  as  a  line  of  demarcation  between  the 
bishoprics  of  Vich  and  Barcelona.  This  violent 
rent  or  separation  was  produced,  say  religious 
legends,  at  the  moment  of  the  crucifixion. 

The  13  hermitages  formed  what  is  called  a 
via  cruets  and  scala  catlt,  which  began  at  the 
hermitage  of  Santiago  and  ended  at  that  of  St. 
Jeronimo.  The  views  from  the  former  are 
extensive.  The  mountain  itself,  which  is  after 
all  the  lion  here,  is  formed  by  several  huge 
clustering  conical  hills;  through  which  all  access 
is  difficult.  These  ( aiguilles  consist  of  round 
calcareous  stones,  of  various  colours,  and  hewn, 
so  to  speak,  by  a  sort  of  natural  bitumen  mixed 
with  sand.  Continued  rains  gradually  destroy 
by  decomposition  this  glutinous  fossil  pitch ; 
they  thus  render  the  peaks  more  pointed, 
carry  away  the  soil  and  sand;  and  plough  the 
slopes  of  the  mountain  in  all  directions,  filtering 
through  the  mass  and  producing  these  stalac- 
tites which  we  see  in  the  grottoes  of  Collbato. 
The  detritus  accumulated  at  the  base  of  the 
mountain  has  at  last  become  an  excellent 
vegetable  soil,  which  produces  fine  wheat  and 
vines;  and  though  the  summits  are  rugged, 
denuded,  and  sterile,  the  slopes,  within  an 
extent  of  25  kil.  circumference,  are  clothed 
with  vegetation,  and  present  a  series  of  203 
varieties  of  plants.  The  mountain  stands 
isolated.  Its  spurs  extend  N.W.,  and  are  of 
great  height  also,  and  the  whole  mass  forms 
part  of  the  Pyrenean  range. 


THE   BASQUE   PROVINCES. 


Geographical  Administrative  Di- 
visions . — These  three  provinces,  Alava, 
Vizcaya,  Guipiizcoa  (capitals,  Vitoria, 
Bilbao,  San  Sebastian)  are  commonly 
called  *  Las  Provincias, '  to  which  Vas- 
congadas  is  often  added ;  they  consti- 
tuted the  ancient  Cantabria  (from  Kent- 
Aber,  corner  of  the  water),  the  inhabit- 
ants of  which  were  never  expelled 
from  their  native  soil,  and  proved  as 
indomitablo  as  the  Asturii  and  all 
mountaineers  generally  are.  The  largest 


of  the  three  is  Biscay,  which  measures 
some  314  m.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  39  m. 
E.  to  W.,  with  a  seaboard  of  52  j  m.  in 
extent.  The  smallest,  that  of  Guipuz- 
coa,  contains  only  52  square  leagues, 
and  Alava  116  square  leagues.  The 
population  is:  —  Vizcaya,  190,000} 
Alava,  104,000;  Guipuzcoa,  185,000; 
total  479,000.  The  principal  rivers 
are  :<—  the  Bidassoa,  which  rises  on 
the  S.W.  slopes  of  the  Pico  de  Les- 
setc,  in  the  range  of  the  Alduides,  some 


BASQUE  PROVINCES. 


59 


3336  ft  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ;  the 
Ibaizabal,  Arratia,  Orduna,  and  Cadag- 
na,  in  Biscay,  which  uniting  their  waters 
form  the  Nervion  that  crosses  Bilbao 
and  empties  itself  into  the  Atlantic. 
The  principal  towns,  besides  the  capitals 
already  mentioned,  are  :  Tolosa,  Iron, 
and  Vergara.  The  principal  ports  those 
of  Lequeitio,  Portugalete,  and  Laredo. 
The  three  provinces  are  placed  under 
the  military  jurisdicton  of  a  Capitania- 
General  de  las  Provincial  Vascongadas 
and  Navarre,  whose  residence  is  at 
Pamplona.  There  is  a  gobernador  for 
each,  and  judicially  and  ecclesiastically 
they  depend  on  the  audiencia  of  Burgos 
and  the  dioceses  of  Santander  and  Cala- 
horra. 

History. — The  Basques  are  said  to 
be  the  descendants  of  the  earliest  in- 
habitants of  the  Peninsula,  and  to  this 
day  they  have  preserved  intact  the 
character,  customs,  and  language,  of 
their  forefathers.  With  all  justice  they 
can  lay  claim  to  the  title  of  the  oldest 
race  in  Spain.  They  call  their  language 
Eskara  or  Euskara,  and  themselves 
Escualdunac,  meaning,  perhaps,  strong 
hand.  From  the  first  they  constituted 
small  republics,  ruled  by  chiefs  elected 
among  themselves,  and  according  to 
especial  codes  or  fucros,  which  breathed 
fierce  independence,  parochial  exclusive- 
ness,  and  stern  but  patriarchal  regula- 
tions. This  national  code  has  been 
respected  at  all  times,  and  by  every 
ruler,  forming  an  imperium  in  imperio, 
with  its  especial  House  of  Commons, 
Diputacion  Provincial,  tariffs,  tolls, 
police,  and  army.  These  fneros  have 
now  been  mostly  abolished,  however, 
since  the  second  Carlist  war,  in  1876, 
and  the  provinces  assimilated  to  the 
rest  of  Spain.  The  Basques  have 
played  no  important  part  in  the 
annals  of  Spain.  In  1106  those  on 
the  French  side  purchased  the  La- 
board  for  3306  gold  florins,  and  were 


incorporated  with  France  in  1451,  under 
Charles  VII.,  but  continued  to  enjoy 
certain  exemptions  from  taxes,  enlist- 
ment in  the  army,  etc.  In  1330  and 
1333,  the  Spanish  Basque  Provinces 
submitted  to  the  authority  of  Alfonso 
XI.  of  Castile,  and  were  annexed  to 
Castile  by  Pedro  the  Cruel,  who  put  to 
death  Juan  of  Aragon,  husband  of  the 
heiress  to  the  lordship  (sefiorio)  which 
these  provinces  constituted. 

Character,  Language,  and  Dress. 
— The  Vascuenses  are  a  most  noble, 
high-minded,  and  interesting  race ;  a 
haughty,  stern,  independent  people, 
noted  for  truthfulness  and  honesty,  and 
unbounded  hospitality.  They  are  ad- 
dicted to  agriculture  and  smith-work, 
make  excellent  sailors,  and  have  be- 
come most  remarkable  discoverers.  El- 
cano,  who  commanded  one  of  Magel- 
lan's ships ;  Legazpia,  who  made  the 
conquest  of  the  Philippine  Islands,  and 
founded  the  first  Spanish  town  at  Zebu, 
Loaira,  etc. ;  and  the  discovery  of 
Greenland,  Canada,  Newfoundland,  etc., 
have  been  ascribed  to  Basques.  They 
were  certainly  the  earliest  whale-fisher- 
men on  record,  and  to  this  day  man  the 
French  and  Spanish  whalers  that  leave 
Bayonne,  Bordeaux,  and  the  Spanish 
northern  ports.  They  are  good  soldiers, 
especially  when  under  the  immediate 
and  exclusive  orders  of  a  countryman 
(paisano),  and  the  tercios  Vascongados 
were  always  held  in  great  repute. 
Though  deficient  in  works  of  imagina- 
tion, taste,  and  art,  they  are  excellent 
mathematicians,  learned  scholars,  and 
stout  reason ers.  Physically,  they  are 
a  very  superior  race,  tall,  muscular, 
well-proportioned,  why,  and  swift- 
footed.  Fair  hair  and  blue  eyes  are 
frequent — a  fact  explained  by  the  long 
and  constant  intercourse  and  partial 
amalgamation  with  the  Northmen  dur- 
ing the  9th  century,  and  their  Celtic 
origin.    The  women  are  very  handsome, 


60 


BASQUE  PROVINCES. 


fail  -complexioned,  and  with  magnificent 
long  hair,  worn  in  trenzas  hanging  over 
the    back.      They   are    reserved    and 
haughty  before  strangers.    Their  claims 
to  be  the  descendants  of  Noah  and 
Tubal,  the  most  noble  race  in  the  world, 
and  of  pure  and  earliest  nobility,  are 
among  the  quaint  traditions  of  the  race. 
Every  Vascongado  is  born  a  caballero,  a 
goicoa,  and  proud  armorials  are  very 
frequently  seen  sculptured  in  stone  over 
a  humble  cottage  or  a  dilapidated  hovel. 
Their  customs,  games,  etc.,  are  all  in- 
teresting and  evince  antiquity.     For 
instance,  corn  and  bread  are  offered  to 
the  dead  on  the  anniversary  day  of  their 
death.     At  X<lizondo,  San  Sebastian, 
etc ,  we  have  often  seen  some  poor  fisher- 
man's daughter,  in  a  church,  praying 
for  a  dead  relative,  amid  baskets  full  of 
fruit,  loaves  of  bread,  and  com,  and 
kneeling  upon  the  tomb  of  her  ancestors, 
bearing   an   escutcheon   with    canting 
arms.     The  dances  on  holidays  must 
also  be  noticed  for  their  originality  and 
antique  character,  the  zorcico,  the  carried., 
the  cspata,  and  others,  are  all  interest- 
ing  to  witness.     The  biigpipe,    tam- 
bourine, fife,  and  the  silbato  are  the 
usual  rude  Berber-like  instruments  that 
accompany  them.     The  wild  cries  of 
outbursting  joy,   the  clashing  of  the 
chestnut  iron-ended  makila,  the  delight 
of  the  dancers,  bring  back  to  our  recol- 
lection their  definition  by  Voltaire  : — 
'  Les  Basques  sont  un  petit  peuplc  qui 
saute  et  danse  au  sommet  des  Pyrenees. ' 
The  great  national  amusement  is  the 
iuego  de  pelota,  fives-court,  which  is 
met  with   in    the    most    insignificant 
hamlet.     They  are  the  best  players  in 
Europe,  and  have  frequently  beaten  the 
French  Basques,  renowned  alike  in  this 
game.      The  dress  is  picturesque  but 
plain.      The   men  wear   short  velvet 
jackets,  mostly  dark  green  or  brown, 
long  loose  trowsers  of  the  same  material, 
alpargatas  (sandals)  or  wooden  shoes, 


in  winter,  called  madrettas.  A  blue  01 
vivid  red  sash  girds  the  loins,  and  the 
head-gear  consists  of  the  picturesque 
boina,  generally  blue. 

The  women  cover  their  heads  in  the 
cold  and  rainy  months,  or  when  they 
go  to  church,  with  the  cloth  hood,  black 
or  brown,  worn  in  Navarre,  the  Pyre- 
nees French  and  Spanish,  the  south  of 
France,  and  Bruges  in  Belgium. 

The  Basque  is  the  oldest  known  lan- 
guage in  Spain,  and  the  Basques  the 
oldest  stratum  of  the  population.     Of 
this  they  are  well  aware.     Their  free 
institutions  made  them  rank  as  nobles 
in  mediaeval  and  later  times.    The  lan- 
guage forms  a  family  by  itself,  and, 
according  to  Humboldt,  was  formerly 
spoken   throughout    all    Spain.       Its 
vocabulary,  rich  as  it  is,  contains  few 
or  no  abstract  terms  ;    these    having 
been  borrowed  for  the  most  part  from 
other  languages.    The  pronunciation  is 
harsh,  unharmonious,  and  most  difficult 
to  learn.  The  devil  is  said  to  have  studied 
it,  and  could  not  learn  above  three  words 
after  several  years'  labour ;  while  one 
of  the  best  authorities  on  it,  the  late 
Prince    Lucien    Bonaparte,   succeeded 
in  speaking  it  fluently  after  a  short 
residence  in  the  country.     The  nouns, 
pronouns,  and  adjectives  change  into 
verbs  at  will,  and  likewise  verbs  may  be 
transformed  into  nouns  and  adjectives. 
All  prepositions,  adverbs,  conjunctions, 
interjections,  the  very  letters  of  the  al- 
phabet, are  declined  like  nouns  or  adjec- 
tives and  conjugated  like  verbs.     The 
substantive  changes  according  to  the 
condition  of  the  being  or  thing  to  de- 
signate,   expressing    graphically    the 
sense  of  objects  to  which  they  are  ap- 
plied, thus  : — 

God  is  called  Jaun  Goicoa,  that  iy,  the  good 

Master  who  dwells  on  high 
Moon  „     Harghi,  light  of  the  dead. 

Cemetery  ,,     Herria,  the  land  of  the  dead. 
Science       .,     Icasbide,  road  to  learning. 


BASQUE  PROVINCES. 


61 


A  new  house  is  called  EtcArverry,  and  any- 
body's house — say  Raymond's 
house — Erremuntegkia. 

Lope  de  Vega,  who  traced  his  origin 
to  one  of  these  provinces,  says  : — 

Para  noble  nacimiento 
Hay  en  EspaSa  tres  partes, 
Galicia,  Vizcaya>  Asturias, 
O  ya  montaflas  las  llaman. 

Indeed,  every  Basque  claims  a  descent 
at  least  from  Noah,  and  maintains  it  as 
seriously  as  any  Scotchman :  As  is  told 
of  one  who,  on  being  informed  that  we 
all  descended  from  Noah,  asserted  that 
his  family  '  didna  do  so,'  for  they  had 
at  the  time  of  the  deluge  '  a  little  ark 
of  their  own/  a  story  similar  to  one 
told  of  some  of  the  members  of  the  Due 
de  Levi's  family,  who  seriously  pretend 
to  be  nearly  related  to  the  Virgin  Mary, 
who  was  one  of  the  tribe  of  Levi.     But 
the  sensible  Spaniard  remarks,   'hay 
parentescos  que  no  les  alcanza  un  galgo. ' 
Agricultural  Produce,  Mines,  etc. 
— The  country  is  very  hilly,  containing, 
but  as  exceptions  to  the  rule,  some 
charming    green    valleys    embosomed 
amid  chestnut-clad  slopes,  oaks,  and  the 
blue  arrowy  pine.  The  scenery,  cottages, 
villages,  and  houses,  are  most  Swiss- 
like.     The    tinkling    of   bells    hung 
around   the  velvet-coated  black    and 
white    cows,    mostly    imported    from 
Brittany  or  Navarre  ;    the  wild,  shrill, 
joyful  cries  of  the  cowherds  calling  to 
each  other  across  the  valleys  ;  the  blue- 
green  meadows  watered  by  sparkling 
rills,  fringed  by  English-looking  hedges; 
the  slopes  of  clustered  hills  gilt  by  the 
waving  maize  ;   whitewashed  cottages 
studded  about :  how  different  all  from 
the    dusty,  dreary,    deserted,    savage 
Castile  which  we  have  crossed  or  are 
about  to  enter  1    the  well-kept  roads, 
secure  bridges,  regular  pretty  villages, 
with  a  tidy  plaza,  a  shady  alameda,  and 
the  school-house  and  church,  full  of 


sunshine ;  all  bespeak  good  self-govern- 
ment, habits  of  order,  and  honest  toil. 
There  are  several  manufactories  of  paper, 
soap,  matches,  cotton  and  linen,  woollen 
stuffs,  etc.,  at  Irun,  Benteria,  Tolosa, 
Lasarte,  and  Vergara.  Iron-foundries 
at  Irura  and  Tolosa.  Mines  are  not 
very  abundant.  Iron  is  found  at  Ciz- 
urquil  and  Alzo,  and  especially  at  So- 
morrostro,  mentioned  by  Pliny,  where  it 
is  most  abundant,  producing  upwards 
of  2,000,000  tons  of  ore  annually. 
That  of  Balmaseda  is  also  considerably 
worked  and  abundant.  Pyrites  of  cop- 
per are  found  close  to  Bilbao,  lead  at 
Monte  Haya,  etc.  Chalk,  alabaster, 
baryta,  and  calcareous  spar  are  very 
common,  and  galine  is  extracted  from 
the  rich  mines  of  Elarrio,  Manaria, 
Guadalcano,  etc.  (N.  of  Bilbao) ;  coals 
have  not  been  found,  and  are  brought 
from  Asturias. 

Some  of  the  best  mineral  springs  are 
to  be  met  with  in  these  provinces,  such 
as  Santa  Agueda,  near  Mondsagon  (sul- 
phate of  calcium  and  chlorure  of  so- 
dium), Alzola ;  Arechavaleta  (sulphu- 
ric acid  gas  and  sulphate  of  calcium), 
near  Vergara ;  Cestona  (chlor.  sod. ), 
not  far  from  Azpeitia  ;  Molinar  de 
Carranza  (ac  carb.) ;  Cortezubi,  near 
Murquina  (sulph.  hydrog.),  Zaldivar,  etc. 
The  principal  products  of  the  province 
are  maize,  red  and  white ;  excellent 
fruit,  such  as  the  pavia  peaches  of  the 
valley  of  Gordeguela,  near  Bilbao  ;  the 
delicious  Busturia  cherries ;  juicy  apples 
from  Durango,  and  chestnuts.  Corn  is 
not  much  grown.  Minerals,  cheap  wines 
(to  France)  for  mixing  purposes,  chest- 
nuts and  wool  form  the  chief  exports  : 
petroleum,  grains  and  machinery,  the 
chief  imports.  The  Chacoli  wine  pro- 
duced here  is  sour,  and  strangers  cannot 
drink  it  without  water.  Some  crystal  is 
manufactured  at  La  Piedad  de  Ibaiza- 
ibal ;  linen  at  Begona  ;  porcelain,  ropes, 
Ipaper,  etc,  at  Buistura.    The  villages 


62 


BASQUE   PROVINCES. 


are  comprised  in  ante-iglesias  or  dis- 
tricts, so  called  from  being  generally 
grouped  'before/  or  rather  around  the 
parish  church,  which  is  the  citadel,  the 
palace,  the  hospital,  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment and  wisdom  in  the  eyes  of  the 
religious,  simple-minded,  patriarchal 
Vascuenses,  who  readily  believe  with 
Napoleon  '  tout  ce  que  croit  mon  cure\ ' 
The  municipalities,  parientes  mayores 
or  infanzones  (not  the  lords,  but,  accord- 
ing to  the  Basque  etymology,  the  first 
occupants  of  the  land,  the  elders),  meet 
under  the  porch  of  the  church  to  de- 
liberate on  parish  matters  ;  the  merin- 
dades,  or  larger  political  districts,  com- 
prising each  several  ante-iglesias,  meet 
at  different  large  cities  of  the  provinces 
to  treat  on  general  matters  important 
to  the  interest  of  the  commonwealth. 
But  however  republican  and  democratic 
the  Basques  pretend  to  be,  they  retain 
certain  aristocratic  privileges  and  prin- 
ciples ;  thus,  though  all  born  gentle- 
men, the  master  of  a  house  is  alone 
eteheco-yauna,  the  equivalent  for  hi- 
dalgo. Right  of  primogeniture  also 
exists,  which  is  applied  to  the  first-born, 
whether  a  male  (etcheco-premua),  or  a 
female  (etcheco-prima).  A  time-ho- 
noured oak,  el  arbol  de  Guernica,  is 
from  time  immemorial  the  rendezvous 
of  the  political  assemblies  of  the  pro- 
vinces which  meet  under  its  shady 
branches  (Guernica  is  near  Bilbao),  and 
alternately  also  at  Iran,  Vittoria,  etc. 

Koutes,  etc. — The  cities  are  not  very 
interesting,  save  to  military  tourists  who 
may  wish  to  visit  the  celebrated  fields 
of  Vittoria,  Ernani,  Iran,  San  Sebas- 
tian, etc. ;  the  most  picturesque  portions 
lie  about  Vergara,  Zarauz,  Salinas, 
Mondragon,  and  may  be  visited  by  rail 
or  frequent  diligences.  There  is  some 
good  trout-fishing  and  oaza  menor ;  the 
country  is  free  from  robbers,  and  the 
local  rural  police,  los  miqueletes,  are  a 
trustworthy,  good-natured  tribe,  always 


ready  to  aid  the  traveller,  as  we  have 
personally  experienced  more  than  once. 
For  a  tour  in  the  provinces  we  should 
suggest  the  following  routes  : — 


Irun 

to  Sebastian,  c.  or.  rl.* 

ii 

Zarauz 

ii 

ii 

it 

Bilbao 

ii 

•f 

it 

Ordu&a 

ii 

ii 

i> 

Vittoria 

>> 

>i 

i> 

Salinas 

ii 

i) 

ii 

Mondragon,  c. 

or  dil. 

it 

Tolosa 

i* 

ii 

it 

Irun,  c. 

or  rl. 

*  C.  carriage  or  dil.  ;  rl.  railway 

There  are  small  caleches  to  be  found  in 
every  large  village,  and  the  wiry,  sure- 
footed hack  of  the  country  will  be  often 
preferred  to  the  close  stuffy  diligence 
and  too  rapid  railway  ;  the  inns  are 
everywhere  tidy,  clean,  and  the  charges 
most  reasonable  ;  the  climate  is  rainy 
and  damp — summer  and  autumn  are 
the  best  seasons  for  travelling. 

Books  of  Reference. — The  Basque 
literature  is  of  little  importance,  and 
none  is  earlier  than  the  16th  century. 
The  Souletine  Pastorals  partake  of 
the  character  of  the  mediaeval  Mysteries, 
and  are  still  performed.  Here  ^gain, 
however,  there  is  nothing  older  t^an 
the  middle  of  the  last  century.  T 
subjects  are  generally  historical  and 
legendary,  and  satire  is  often  happily 
introduced.  The  Basques,  like  most 
mountaineers,  are  proficient  in  the  com- 
position of  songs,  both  historical  and 
religious,  but  more  especially  satirical 
and  light.  Their  proverbs  are  veiy 
racy,  and  have  been  collected  by  the 
Souletine  Basque,  Oihenart,  in  the 
17th  century ;  they  are  contained  in 
the  MS.  copy  at  the  Paris  Biblio- 
theque  ImpeViale,  but  have  '  been 
printed,  Bordeaux  in  1847,  and  at 
Bayonne  in  1872.  The  poetical 
works  of  Dechepare,  Oihenart,  and 
Istueta,  also  exist.  Several  proverbs, 
and    information    respecting    Basque 


^ 


I 


BILBAO. 


OS 


Literature,  etc.,  are  found  in  ChaluS's 
'  Biarritz,  entre  les  Pyrenees  et 
L'Ocean,'  2  vols.  ;  Bayonne.  And- 
reossy. 

1.  'Voyage  Archeologique  et  Histo- 
rique  dans  le  Pays  Basque,  le  Labourd, 
et  le  Guipuzcoa,  par  M.  Cenac  Mon- 
caut;'  Paris,  Didron,  1857. 

2.  Good  and  authentic  information 
may  be  derived  from  'Diccionario  geog.- 
historico  de  Espa&a,'  published  by  the 
Acad,  of  Hist,  in  1802  ;  Madrid  Ibarra. 
The  seccion  1*  comprises  these  pro- 
vinces and  Navarre,  2  vols.  4to. 

3.  '  Historia  de  la  Provincia  de  Gui- 
puzcoa,' by  Iztueta ;  San  Sebastian, 
1847  (written  in  Basque). 

4.  'In  Northern  Spain,'  by  Hans 
Gadow  (London,  1897),  chiefly  useful 
for  its  natural  history  notes. 

5.  The  history  of  Guipuzcoa  has  been 
written  by  Isasti  (1625),  Velazquez,  Eche- 
verri,  etc.  They  are  of  little  importance, 
being  founded  on  fables,  and  many  facts 
distorted  by  local  partiality.  An  excep- 
tion to  this  is  the  32d  vol.  of  Risco's  'Es- 


pafia  Sagrada,'  aud  Iturriaza  y  Zabala's 
1  Historio  Gen.  de  Vizcaya,'  1785,  fol.  MS. 
Acad.  Hist,  Madrid  (C.  150),  and  'Com- 
pendios  bistoricos  de  la  Ciudad  y  Villas 
de  Alava/  by  Landazuri.  The  'Essai 
d'uue  Bibliographie  de  la  Langue  Bas- 
que/ by  J.  Vinson  (Paris :  Maisonneuve, 
1891),  gives  an  account  of  all  that 
has  been  published  in  Basque  and  upon 
the  Basque.  Chah<S's  ( Dictionnaire 
Basque,  Francais,  Espagnol,  et  Latin,' 
may  be  recommended.  The  best  gram- 
matical treatise  is  '  Le  Verbe  Basque  en 
Tableaux,'  by  Prince  Bonaparte,  Lon- 
don, 1869.  Of.  also  a  linguistic  map 
of  the  country  by  the  same  author. 
Other  grammars  are '  Essai  sur  la  Langue 
Basque,'  by  J.  Ribary,  translated  by 
Vinson,  Paris,  1877  ;  'Grammaire  Com- 
pared des  Dialectes  Basques,'  by  Van 
Eys,  Paris,  1879 ;  and  his  simplified 
Basque  Grammar  in  Triibner's  series. 
The  most  complete  work  is  D.  Arturo 
Oampion's  'Gramdtica  de  los  cuatro 
Dialectos  literarios  de  la  Lengua  Eus- 
kara,'  Tolosa,  1884. 


BILBAO. 

Capital  of  province  of  Vizcaya  (Biscay\  a  seaport.     Pop.  £o,ooa 

Routes  and  Conveyances. — 1st,  from  Madrid^  by  rail  throughout,  thus  :— 


Madrid  to  Miranda  (branch  buffet, 

carriages  changed)  by  rail  . 
Miranda  to  Bilbao  „ 


Kil. 

453 
104 

557 

The  route  is  uninteresting,  though 
the  scenery  is  wild,  and  the  engineering 
ranks  among  the  finest  in  Europe  for 
daring  and  boldness. 

2d,  From  Barcelona  and  Zaragoza 
by  Tudela,  by  rail  throughout.  Bar- 
celona to  Zaragoza,  by  rail ;  Zaragoza 
to  Oastejon  (rail  line  of  Zaragoza  to 
Alsasua),  distance,  94  kil.  Time,  about 
3  hours  20  min.  Fares,  Pes.  10.85 ; 
Pes.  8.16.  Stops  at  Castejon,  a  good 
buffet.     Ohange  carriages  for  Miranda, 


Time  (express.) 
h.  m. 
ia    o 

4    o 


Fares,  ist  and  2d  cL 
<>.    c.       p.    c. 
52  10       39  10 
12    o         90 


16    o 


64  10        48  zo 


by  Logro&o.  Castejon  to  Miranda  and 
Bilbao,  distance  249  kil.  Time,  about 
9  hours.  Fares,  Pes.  28.75;  21.60. 
Junction -station,  Miranda.  Buffet, 
about  30  min.  stops.  This  journey  is 
not  interesting.  We  shall  describe  it 
very  briefly. 

Description  of  Boute. — Calahorra 
(Posada  de  Espinosa),  on  the  river 
Cidacos,  was  the  birthplace  of  Quin- 
tilian,  the  rival  of  Nuinantia  and  of 
Zaragoza  for  dogged  resistance  against 


64 


BILBAO — ROUTES. 


the  enemy.  Here  Sertorius  sustained  a 
long  siege  against  Pompey  (b.  o.  678), 
when  the  latter,  after  a  loss  of  3000 
men,  was  compelled  to  retire.  Four 
years  after,  it  was  besieged  by  Apranius, 
and  finally  taken  and  destroyed  after  a 
most  desperate  resistance.  Provisions 
being  at  an  end,  human  flesh  was 
resorted  to  rather  than  surrender,  and 
at  Rome  '  Fames  Calagurritana'  became 
a  proverb.  Indeed,  Alfonso  el  Sabio, 
in  his  'Partidas,'  iv.  17,  8,  sets  down 
as  a  law  that  a  father,  whilst  defending 
a  castle,  may  eat  his  own  Son  rather 
than  surrender  : — *  Seyendo  el  padre 
cercado  en  algun  castillo  que  toviesse 
de  senor,  si  f uesse  tan  cuytado  de  fambre 
que  non  oviesse  al  que  comer,  puede 
comer  al  fijo,  sin  mal  estranca,  ante 
que  diesse  el  castillo  sin  mandado  de  su 
senor.'  The  town  is  a  thing  of  the 
past,  and  perieremt  ruince.  At  Castejon 
vehicles  may  be  obtained  to  baths  of 
Fitero,  and  at  Calahorra  for  those  of 
Almedillo.  On  the  Lera,  two  leagues 
from  Logrono,  took  place  the  battle  of 
Clavijo",  at  which  Santiago,  notwith- 
standing his  having  been  put  to  death 
some  800  years  before,  managed  to  kill 
60,000  Moors. 

Logroflo. — Inn :  Fonda  del  Universo, 
Pop.  14,000.  Capital  of  province  of 
same  name.  On  the  right  bank  of  the 
Ebro,  on  a  very  fertile  plain,  well  culti- 
vated and  planted,  producing  the  good 
but  heady  vino  de  la  Rioja.  The  church 
of  Santa  Maria  la  Redonda  dates  from  the 
15th cent,  with  later  admixtures.  Santa 
Maria  de  Palacio  (styled  also  '  imperial,1 
after  either  Sancho  el  Fuerte  of  Navarre 
or  Charles  V.)  is  older,  with  portions  of 
12th  cent.  work.  In  the  church  of  San- 
tiago is  said  to  have  been  established 
the  order  of  Santiago.  Engineers  as 
well  as  antiquaries  and  artists  should 
examine  attentively  the  bridge  over  the 
Ebro,  built  by  a  Dominican  Mar  called 
San  Juan  de  Ortega,  in  1138.     Logrono 


was  the  residence  chosen  by  General 
Espartero,  K.C.B.,  Duke  of  Morella, 
etc.  etc.,  and  the  hero  of  the  Vergara 
Convention.    This  true  patriot,  a  model 
of  honesty  and  disinterestedness,   re- 
tired, Garibaldi-like,  to  this  other  Cap- 
rera,  where  his  greatest  ambition  was 
to  rear  the  largest  cherries  and  cauli- 
flowers in  Spain,  and  to  make  the  best 
wine.     Shortly  after  leaving  Logroflo 
Fummayor  is  reached.    Close  to  it  is 
the  small  town  of  Navarrete,  whose 
name  is  familiar  to  readers  of  Spanish 
history,  on  account  of  the  celebrated 
battle  which  was  fought  not  far  from 
its  walls,  at  Nagera,  between  Enrique 
de  Trastamara,  aided  by  the  French, 
Duguesclin,  and  Don  Pedro  el  Cruel, 
who  won  the  day,  thanks  to  his  Eng- 
lish allies,  headed  by  the  gallant  Black 
Prince,  April  3,  1367.     Some  excellent 
silk  is  produced   at  Laguardia,   near 
Station  of  Cenicero.  The  fertile  *  Campos 
de  la  Rioja,'  watered  by  the  Ebro,  are 
crossed,  as  well  as  this  river,  on  nearing 
Miranda. 

3d,  From  Bayonne.  A.  By  land, 
by  rail  vid  Zumarraga  and  Durango 
(change  at  Zumarraga)  in  about  five 
hours.  A  most  picturesque  route,  and 
greatly  shortening  the  old,  Miranda 
Junction  journey. 


Or  (B)  drive,  I 

thus — 

Leagues 

San  Sebastian  to  Andoatn  .        .        a 

Tolosa         .... 

a— 4 

Villafranca  . 

3 

Villareal 

3 

Vergara 

a 

Elgueta 

,           X 

Elorrio 

X 

Durango 

a 

Zornoza 

3 

Bilbao 

a 

2X 

Between  San  Sebastian  and  Andoain  is  passed 
the  picturesque  Basque  town  of  Hernani,  where 
Sir  De  Lacy  Evans  was  defeated,  March  16, 
1837.  See  the  quaint  old  private  nouses  here. 
The  mountain  scenery  of  the  spurs  of  the 
Pyrenees  is  very  fine,  and  worth  some  detailed 
visiting. 


BILBAO — ROUTES. 


65 


Tolosa. — Province  of  Guipuzcoa,  9000  inhab., 
situated  in  a  narrow  vale  between  the  Montes 
Ernio  and  Loazu,  on  the  rivers  Orio  and  Arages. 
An  improving,  tidy,  clean,  and  busy  town,  as 
most  of  these  provinces  are.  A  good  Parador 
de  las  Diligencias.  The  old,  once  Gothic 
church  of  Sta.  Maria  was  modernised  in  1814. 
The  magnificent  retablo  once  here,  and  90  ft. 
high,  disappeared,  together  with  the  archives  of 
the  town,  etc.,  during  a  fire  in  1781. 

Vergara. — Good  inn,  Miguel.  A  Swiss- 
like town ;  manufactories,  an  excellent  colegio, 
situated  on  the  Deva  (a  good  trout  stream). 
Pop.  5736.  Sculpture-amateurs  may  examine 
a  fine  Dying  Christ  by  Juan  Martz  Montanes  in 
church  of  San  Pedro ;  and  an  excellent  statue 
of  St.  Ignatius  in  the  colegio.  In  church  of 
Sta.  Marina,  a  much-thought-of  painting  by 
Mateo-Cerezo — subject,  the  Cristo  de  Burgos. 
Daily  dil.  service  to  Deva,  a  fashionable  sea- 
side and  bathing -place  on  the  river  of  same 
name ;  good  accommodation,  excellent  beach 
for  bathing,  3500  souls,  8  leagues,  6  hrs.  by 
either  Placencia  (Government  gun  manufactory) 
or  by  Elzoybar  and  Alzola  (mineral  water). 

Durango. — An  important  military  position, 
with  6190  inhab.,  charmingly  situated  on  a 
plain  watered  by  the  Durango.  Its  church  of 
San  Pedro  de  Tavira  is  one  of  the  earliest  in 
Biscay. 

Zornoza. — Close  to  it,  on  March  ai,  1837,  an 
action  took  place  between  Espartero,  with  the 
legion  under  Sir  de  Lacy  Evans  and  the  Car- 
lists,  which  lasted  zi  hrs.,  and  ended  in  the 
victory  of  the  former. 

C.  or  via  Zarauz  and  Azcoitia,  by  diligence 

or  carriage,  thus— 

Leagues. 

San  Sebastian  to  Orio  .  3 

Zarauz x 

Cestona  .  .  4 

Azpeitia z 

Azcoitia 1 

Elgoybar 2 

Eybar 1 

Durango  ...  3 

Zornoza 3 

Bilbao 2 

In  16  hrs.     21 

The  scenery  is  very  picturesque,  and  the 
roads  good,  though  hilly  and  often  narrow. 

Zarauz.— 3300  inhab.  A  new  fonda ;  good 
lodging-houses.  A  sea-side  place,  becoming 
every  day  more  and  more  fashionable,  situated 
near  some  very  picturesque  hills,  dotted  with 
chestnut  and  other  trees;  there  are  several 
marine  villas,  built  by  some  Madrid  noblemen 
and  gentlemen  of  wealth.  The  castle-like 
Casa  of  Condes  de  Narros  is  the  most  fre- 


quented evening  tertulia,  besides  those  of  the 
Duke  of  Villahermosa,  Granada,  Count  Solina, 
Sr.  D.  Pascual  Madoz,  etc.  The  playa  is 
good  and  secure,  and  several  pretty  excursions 
can  be  made  in  the  environs. 

Cestona. — Mineral  spring,  very  much  resorted 
to.  The  establecimiento  can  hold  210  persons ; 
charges  moderate,  2or.  a-day  all  included.  Fre- 
quented by  800  to  1000  bathers  a-year. 

Azpeitia. — On  the  Urriola,  7000  inhab.  A 
mile  farther  is  the  convent  and  santa  casa, 
where  Ignatius  de  Loyola,  the  founder  of  the 
Jesuits,  was  born  in  1491.  The  former  is  a 
handsome  building,  raised  in  1683  by  Maria 
Ana  of  Austria,  Philip  IV.'s  Wife,  on  the  fine 
old  domain  of  Ignatius.  It  was  built  by  the 
Roman  architect  Fontana.  There  is  a  grand 
public  festival  and  romeria  in  honour  of  the 
saint,  towards  the  end  of  July,  with  a  great  con- 
course of  pilgrims.  (Fonda  de  Arteche,  Azpeitia, 
poor ;  Fonda  de  Miguel  Aracena,  close  to  the 
Santa  Casa,  good.  Travellers  should  stay  at 
the  latter.) 

Azcoitia  (5000 inhab.)  is  charmingly  situated 
amid  woodland,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Urola. 
The  stalls  of  its  church  of  Sta.  Maria  la  Real, 
are  elaborately  carved,  but  the  chapels  tawdry 
and  in  vile  taste.  Close  to  Elzoybar  is  the 
mineral  spring  of  Alzola,  which  has  good  accom- 
modation, and  is  much  frequented  by  invalids 
suffering  from  the  stone,  etc. 

Eybar. — 4000  inhab.  Important  Government 
manufactory  of  firearms,  swords,  etc.  Sr.  Zulo. 
aga's  ateliers  for  inlaying  work  should  also  be 
visited. 

A  coast  line  from  San  Sebastian  to  Zarauz 
(coach  to  Deva)  and  from  thence  to  Bilbao  via* 
Elgoibar  and  Malzaga  has  lately  been  opened, 
but  does  not  shorten  the  San  Sebastian-Zumar- 
raga-Bilbao  route. 

N.B. — From  Amorebieta,  on  the  Zumarraga- 
Bilbao,  or  San  Sebastian  -  Bilbao  (coast  line) 
route,  a  narrow-gauge  railway  runs  N.  to 
Pedernales,  passing  by  Guernica^  where,  until 
the  abolition  of  the  fueros  (1876),  was  the  seat  of 
the  Basque  Diet.  The  stump  of  the  oak  at  the 
Casa  de  Juntas,  under  which  the  deliberations 
were  held,  still  remains.  From  Guernica  a 
diligence  runs  to  Zarauz  vi&  Lequeitio  (interest- 
ing church)  and  Deva. 

Hotels. — Hotel  Terminus,  at  the  sta- 
tion, a  first-class  house,  with  lift.  Prices 
from  10  pes.  Fonda  de  Antonia  and 
Fonda  de  Inglaterra  in  the  town,  fair : 
prices  from  8  pes. 

CafL — Suizo,  on  the  Arenal.     Good. 


66 


BILBAO. 


Casino. — Very  good  ;  in  the  Plaza 
Nueva.  English  newspapers.  Stran- 
gers readily  admitted  upon  intro- 
duction. 

Post  Office,  in  the  Calle  de  Ayala, 
close  by  the  station. 

Telegraph    Office.  —  In    the    Plaza 

Nueva. 

Bankers. — Bank  of  Spain  (Succur- 
sale) ;  Banco  de  Bilbao. 

Baths,  Calle  Ascao. 

British  Consulate.  — »■  Opposite  the 
railway  station.  E.B.M.  Consul ,  C. 
S.  Smith,  Esq.  U.S.A.  Consular 
Agency. 

English  Church,  Portugalete.  Read- 
ing-room at  Luchana.  Chaplain,  the 
Rev.  Arthur  Burnell,  M.A. 

Climate. — The  city  is  sheltered  from 
the  N.  winds  by  the  hills  of  Archanda, 
from  the  E.  by  the  Morro,  from  the  S. 
by  those  of  Mira  villa,  but  is  open  to 
the  north-western  winds  from  the  Bay 
of  Biscay.  Owing  to  its  low  situation, 
in  a  gorge  of  hills,  the  climate  is  some- 
what damp,  and  care  has  to  be  taken 
to  prevent  disorders  of  the  respira- 
tory organs.  The  air  is  nevertheless 
bracing,  moist,  invigorating,  and 
suited  to  weakened  constitutions,  not 
predisposed  to  phthisis.  The  mor- 
tality is  1.30. 

General  Description.— This  thriv- 
ing and  improving  mercantile  eity  is 
situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Nervion, 
in  a  gorge  formed  by  the  hills  of 
Archanda  on  the  N.,  the  Morro  on  the 
E.,  Miravilla  to  W.,  and  exposed  only 
to  the  N.  W.  The  streets  are  remarkably 
clean,  the  houses  with  projecting  gables, 
the  Plaza  Nueva  is  large,  and  formed 
by  rows  of  fine  houses,  among  which  is 
the  Palacio  de  la  Diputacion  Provincial. 
It  is  a  purely  trading  town,  with  little 
or  no  society,  with  no  edifices  to  inter- 
est the  traveller,   and  few  historical 


associations  of  importance.  Formerly, 
under  the  name  of  Bello  Vas,  or 
'  beautiful  bay ' ;  it  was  founded  in 
1308  by  Diego  Lopez  de  Haro.  It 
played  no  part  in  the  annals  of  the 
middle  ages,  showed  towards  the  Eng- 
lish the  same  hostile  spirit  as  Santander 
during  the  beginning  of  the  century, 
and  sustained  two  destructive  sieges 
against  the  Carlists,  at  one  of  which, 
in  June  1835,  Zumalacarregui  —  the 
only  hero  that  civil  war  ever  produced 
— received  a  mortal  wound.  Espartero, 
in  1836,  coming  to  the  rescue  of  the 
city,  fought  and  won  (close  to  the 
Luchana  bridge)  the  action,  which  was 
raised  to  a  battle,  as  he  was  in  turn  raised 
to  a  grandeza  and  earldom  of  that  name. 

The  most  frequented  promenade  is 
the  Arena!  close  to  the  port,  and  near 
the  Bolsa  and  new  theatre.  The 
Campo  Yolantiu  is  also  a  fine  paseo, 
handsomely  laid  out.  The  river 
joins  the  sea  at  Portugalete,  distant 
about  8  m.,  and  which  is  in  reality 
the  Port  of  Bilbao,  and  a  fashionable 
sea-bathing  place,  *  but  de  promenade.' 
The  bull-fights  are  much  frequented  in 
summer  by  Bordeaux  and  Bayonne 
amateurs,  but  the  bulls  are  seldom 
of  the  best.  The  corridas  held  in 
August  are  good.  The  Bilbainas,  ex- 
cepting the  female  carriers  {Car- 
gueras),  who  here  do  the  porters'  work, 
are  handsome,  statuesque  in  their  atti- 
tudes, and  amiable  in  their  temper. 
The  living  is  fairly  cheap ;  and  fish, 
fruit,  and  meat  all  excellent.  The 
Chacoli  wine  is  reckoned  among  the 
best  in  the  world,  but  chiefly  by 
those  who  sell  it.  The  chestnut's  fame 
does  not  '  pasar  de  castano  oscuro,'  and 
as  for  the  nuts,  we  may  say,  'mucho 
ruido  y  pocas  nueces.' 

Owing  to  the  great  increase  of  Bilbao 
trade  during  the  last  few  years,  com- 
munication with  the  port  (Portugalete) 
has  been  greatly  improved.      Trams 


BILBAO. 


67 


run  every  few  minutes  vid  Luchana, 
and  there  is  an  excellent  service  of 
trains  down  the  left  bank  of  the  river, 
also  down  the  right  bank  to  Arenas 
and  Algorta.  Passengers  by  sea  may 
land  anywhere  between  Bilbao  and  the 
port,  according  to  arrangement.  The 
excellent  work  carried  on  by  the  British 
chaplain  at  the  Luchana  Beading 
Rooms  should  be  visited. 

The  Port. — The  bay  stretches  be- 
tween Punta  Galea  and  Punta  de  Luz- 
ero,  on  its  W.  side,  distant  about  3  m. 
The  awkward  shifting  bar  at  Portu- 
galete  has  been  greatly  improved  by 
running  out  a  pier  into  deep  water, 
and  by  straightening  and  deepening 
the  river,  so  that  now  ships  drawing 
22  feet  can  discharge  at  Bilbao.  The 
port  is  visited  by  some  4000  vessels  of 
a  total  tonnage  of  3, 300, 000  tons.  The 
amount  of  exports  is  £3,250,000,  and  of 
imports  £2,586,000.  Since  the  dis- 
covery of  the  immense  iron  deposits 
(chiefly  red  hematite)  of  the  Somor- 
rostro,  etc.,  districts,  this  has  become 
the  chief  trade  of  the  place,  and  has 
completely  transformed  the  face  of  a 
large  portion  of  what  was  formerly 
purely  an  agricultural  country.  The 
mines  at  Somorrostro,  situated  about 
12  kil.  from  Bilbao  on  the  Santander 
road,  are  especially  deserving  of  a 
visit,  on  account  of  their  picturesque 
surroundings,  and  the  perfection  of 
their  mechanical  arrangements.  The 
ingenious  aerial  wire  tramway,  for 
transporting  the  ore  over  the  hills  to 
its  shipping  destination,  may  here  be 
seen  in  active  operation.  The  amount 
of  iron  ore  exported  annually — two- 
thirds  to  England — amounts  to  up- 
wards of  4,000,000  tons.  The  princi- 
pal ironworks  on  the  river  are  those 
of  the  'Altos  Homos'  de  Bilbao 
(formerly  Ibarra  and  Co.)  the  Sociedad 
Vizcaya  and  the  San  Francisco  works. 


Although  the  future  of  Bilbao  is  threat- 
ened by  an  exhaustion  of  the  iron 
deposits,  great  enterprise  is  being  shown 
in  the  construction  of  an  outer  harbour 
formed  by  two  breakwaters ;  the  one 
running  out  from  Santurce,  on  the  W. 
bank  of  the  river,  the  other  from  a  point 
near  Algorta,  on  the  E.  bank. 

Bilbao  possesses,  apart  from  its  pretty 
clean  self,  and  fine  surrounding  coun- 
try, few  objects  of  interest.  It  may, 
however,  be  very  well  made  a  pleasant 
resting  place  for  a  few  days  en  rcndc 
for  less  civilised  regions.  Visit  the 
fine  new  Jesuit  College,  the  Church 
of  Arrichinaga,  the  prettily  restored 
church  of  Santiago,  the  markets  upon 
the  Plaza  del  Mercado,  the  lovely  little 
cemetery  which  overhangs  the  town, 
and  the  (rather  weak)  Gothic  church 
of  Santa  Maria  de  Begona  which  stands 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  further  along  the 
hill  side.  The  prosperous  suburban 
town  of  Portugalete  should  also  be 
visited,  for  the  sake  of  its  fine  sea- views 
and  good  late  Gothic  parroquia  of  Santa 
Maria.  Note  in  the  latter  the  cleverly 
carved  oak  retablo  of  the  Capilla  Mayor 
and,  coming  out,  the  glorious  vista  of 
sea  and  country  obtainable  from  the 
N.  doorway.  Trains  run  here  from  the 
Portugalete  station,  close  by  the  Es- 
tacion  del  Norte,  every  half  hour,  in 
25  min.  ;  fares,  80c,  55c,  35c.  From 
Portugalete  the  visitor  should  cross  the 
mouth  of  the  river  to  Las  Arenas  and 
Algorta,  two  pretty  bathing-stations  on 
the  E.  bank,  by  the  ingenious  puerile 
trasbordador,  or  flying  railway,  con- 
structed in  1893.  The  carriages  run 
16  feet  above  the  water,  on.  wheels,  the 
whole  construction  being  suspended 
from  a  light  iron  bridge,  530  ft.  long 
and  150  ft.  high.  The  passage  occupies 
about  a  minute  (fare  10c),  and  200 
people  can  be  carried  over  at  a  time. 
From  Las  Arenas  tram  or  train  can  be 
taken  up  the  right  bank  of  the  river  to 
Bilbao. 

The  splendid  coach  drive  along  the  coast  to 
Santander  has  been  superseded  by  the  Bilbao- 
Santander  railway,  bat  is  worth  taking  in  a 
carriage. 


68 


BURGOS. 


Capital  of  the  province  of  the 
same  name,  and  of  the  former  pro- 
vince of  Old  Castile — an  archbishop's 
see.  Pop.  about  32,000,  not  in- 
creasing. 2867  ft.  above  the  sea,  ac- 
cording to  Humboldt,  and  3075  ft., 
Verneuil. 

Bout e s  and  Conv. — 1st,  from  Bay- 
onne.  For  details  of  route,  see  Madrid, 
By  rail  in  10  hrs.  (exp.)  ;  distance,  190 
m.,  fares,  1st  cl.,  35fr.  30c. ;  2d  cl.,  26fr. 

00c.  ;  3d  cl.  15fr.  35c.  Three  trains  a 
day.  By  leaving  Bayonne  at  10.55 
a.m.  arrive  at  Burgos  at  8.45  that  same 
evening.  Tickets  at  railway  station  ; 
buffets  at  Iran,  Alsdsua,  and  Miranda. 

2d.  From  Madrid.  By  rail  (for  de- 
tails of  route  see  Madrid) ;  time,  10  hrs. 
exp.  ;  distance,  226  m.  ;  fares,  1st  cl.  ; 
pes.  41.75  ;  2d.  cL,  pes.  31.35.  There 
are  four  trains  a  day  ;  buffets  at  Avila, 
Medina,  Valladolid,  V.  de  Banos. 

3d.  From  Valladolid.  Distance,  76  m. ; 
time,  3  hrs. ;  fares,  1st.  cl. ,  pes.  13. 90 ;  2d. 
cl.,  pes.  11,  etc.  For  details, see  Madrid. 

4th.  From  Logroflo.  To  Miranda, 
whence  by  rail  in  3  hrs.     See  Bilbao. 

5th.  From  Bilbao.  7±  hrs.  by  rail, 
vid  Miranda.     See  Bilbao. 

6th.  From  Santander.  9  J  hrs.  by 
rail,  vid  Alar  and  Venta  de  Banos.  See 
Santander. 

7th.  From  Leon.  By  rail,  vid  Pa- 
lencia.  Leon  to  Palencia,  4  hrs.  Pa- 
lencia  to  Banos,  16  m.  (by  mail) ;  Banos 
to  Burgos,  2]  hrs. ;  total  7  hrs. 

Hotels. — De  Paris,  on  the  Espolon 
Viejo,  five  or  six  minutes'  walk  from 
the  Cathedral.  Very  good.  Electric 
lighting ;  baths  ;  small  garden  ;  car- 
riages ;  good  service ;  pension  from  8 
pes.  upwards.  Fonda  del  Norte,  Calle 
Lain  Calvo,  not  so  good,  but  civil  land- 
lord :  similar  prices.     At  both  hotels 


terms  should  be  arranged  beforehand 
to  avoid  misunderstandings. 

Post  Office. — Closo  to  the  Hotel  de 
Paris;  open  from  9  a.m.  to  12  p.m., 
and  from  4  a.m.  to  6  A.M.  Hours  of 
delivery  vary  according  to  those  of 
trains.  The  train  from  Madrid  comes 
in  at  10  and  leaves  at  2.20  p.m.;  that 
from  France  comes  in  at  3  p.m.  and 
leaves  at  11.30  a.m. 

Telegraph  Office.  —  Calle  Lain 
Calvo,  near  the  old  Audiencia  ;  open 
day  and  night. 

"Promenades,  Theatres.  —  There  are 
some  pretty  promenades  by  the  river- 
side, especially  the  shady  Espolon  and 
the  Paseo  de  la  Isla,  with  the  Ensanche. 
The  principal  Cafes  are  El  Suizo  and  Et 
Iris,  both  on  the  Espolon.  The  Casino, 
first  floor  above  the  Cafe*  Suizo,  is  a  poor 
concern;  French  papers  taken  in.  The 
theatre,  built  in  1858,  is  spacious  and 
elegantly  fitted  up,  and  can  contain 
about  1200  spectators. 

Climate. — Dull,  damp,  cold,  and 
windblown ;  from  its  elevation  and 
scarcity  of  trees  it  is  very  much  ex- 
posed to  the  KKW.  and  N.E. ;  the  heat 
in  summer  is  never  great — nay,  there 
are  days  in  June  and  Julywhen  embo- 
zarse  en  la  capa  is  deemed  prudent  by 
the  inhabitants.  The  cold  lasts  seven 
or  eight  months.  Indeed,  the  cele- 
brated saying  of  '  Diez  meses  de  invi- 
erno  y  dos  de  infierno,'  now  reversed 
when  applied  somewhat  unjustly  to  Ma- 
drid, originated  at  Burgos  and  in  1526, 
Navagero,  in  'Viaggio  in  Ispagna' 
(Padua,  1718,  p.  387),  mentions  it,  add- 
ing how  cold  and  wretched  he  thought 
the  climate,  and  quotes  this  other 
saying,  'El  sol  como  las  otras  cosaa 
viene  a  Burgos  de  Carreo.'  Neverthe- 
less,   though    certainly    disagreeable, 


BURGOS. 


69 


it  is  not  unwholesome,  and  the  mor- 
tality tables  show  an  annual  death-rate 
of  only  1  in  30.  May  and  October  are 
the  best  months  for  a  visit. 

Directory. — Hired  carriages  at  both 
the  hotels ;  no  tariff.  Excursions  to 
Cartuja,  20r.;  to  Las  Huelgas,  10r.,  also 
at  45  Calle  de  San  Juan,  and  at  the 
Dorado,  Calle  de  Abellanos.  Horses 
may  be  hired  opposite  the  cavalry  bar- 
racks, and  at  No.  8  Calle  de  Lain  Calvo. 
Government  caballos  padres  for  the 
army  may  be  seen  at  Calle  Sta.  Clara, 
opposite  to  the  convent.  Baths. — Baiios 
del  Recuerdo  at  Los  Vadillos,  marble 
and  jasper  baths  ;  and  de  los  Jardines, 
in  Calle  de  la  Puebla.  Photographers.  — 
Views  of  Burgos  may  be  obtained  in 
the  Plaza  Mayor  (several  booksellers' 
shops),  and  also  at  the  Cathedral. 
Lodgings. — Few  and  very  indifferent. 
Tourists  will  do  much  better  to  make 
arrangements  at  one  of  the  hotels. 

General  Description. — Tourists,  in 
their  eagerness  to  reach  Madrid,  or,  it 
may  be,  Bayonne,  are  too  apt  to  pass 
by  this  city  without  visiting  it.  The 
well-merited  reputation  of  dulnoss  and 
desolation  as  a  back-going  provincial 
capital,  and  its  second-rate  hotels,  have 
undoubtedly  contributed  to  this  indif- 
ference ;  but  as  at  least  one  of  these 
charges  is  a  thing  of  the  past,  we 
advise  travellers  not  to  miss  Burgos. 
It  is  among  the  interesting  cities  of 
Spain,  as  possessing  one  of  her  most 
magnificent  cathedrals,  several  curious 
churches,  the  bones  of  the  Cid,  that 
popular  hero  of  legendary  Spain,  and 
monuments,  streets,  and  houses  which 
still  retain,  though  fading  fast,  the  style 
and  character  of  the  Gotho-Castilian 
period. 

Not  entering  into  the  early  history  of 
the  city,  and  leaving  aside  Vilamor's  as- 
sertion that  Burgos  was  founded  by 
King  Brigo,  and  re-peopled  by  Alfonso 


the  Catholic,  and  called  Briga,  weshall 
be  content  to  follow  Rodriguez,  Florez, 
etc. ,  who  state  that  Burgos  was  founded 
(884)  by  Diego  Porcelos,   a  Castilian 
knight,  and  his  son-in-law,  the   Ger- 
man (?)  Nuiio  Belchides,  who,  with  the 
object  of  repelling  the  infidel  and  serv- 
ing Santiago,  to  whose  shrine  he  was  de- 
voutly going,  halted  here  some  time, 
when   the  fair  daughter  of  Porcelos, 
Sulla  Bella,  won  his  heart ;  upon  which 
they  both    decided    on   concentrating 
into  one  fortified   place  the  scattered 
villagers  and  serfs,  and  built  up  Burgos, 
so  called  from  the  German   Burg   (a 
fortified  place  ;  Gothic,   Bargain ;  An- 
cient  Saxon,   Borgan,    and    Byrgans). 
Under  Fruela  II.  (926)  the  descendants 
of  Porcelos  were  traitorously  massacred 
by  the  orders  of  the  former.     Burgos 
continued  to  be  governed  by  a  sort  of 
oligarchical  council  composed  of  judges 
elected  by  the  people,    and   amongst 
whom  Lain  Calvo,  Nuno  Rasuro,  etc., 
were  the  most  celebrated.  Fernan  Gon- 
zalez was  the  first  who  assumed  the 
title  of  Count  of    Castile,  which  be- 
came   hereditary.     He   shook   off  the 
yoke  of   Leon,   and    thus   began  the 
monarchy,    or    reino,   which,   by    the 
marriage  of  his  granddaughter  to  the 
King  of  Navarre,  united  in  the  latter's 
son,  Ferdinand  I.  (1067),  the  crowns  of 
Leon  and  Castile.  Burgos  was  the  birth- 
place of  the  Cid,  and  the  scene  of  many 
of  his  acts  of  prowess  and  legendary 
deeds,  as  also  that  of  Pedro  el  Cruel,  of 
San  Julian,  and  San  Lesme.     The  Cas- 
tellano  Viejo,  the  true  type  of  the  rancio 
Spaniard,  is  to  be  seen  here  in  all  the 
glory  of  his  tattered  cloak,  worn  like 
the  toga  of  a  Roman  senator,  and  truly, 
as  Th6ophile  Gauthier  defines  it,  'la 
sublimit^  du  haillon. '     The  Burgalese 
is  one  of  the  most  unprogressive  of 
Spanish  provincianos;  the  railway,  now 
at  the  gates  of  this  city,  calls  forth  from 
him  no  energy,  or  spirit  of  emulation, 


70 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL 


and  'besidea  some  paltry  manufacturer  c 
two  of  paper  and  cloth,  the  gueso  de 
Burgos  (a  cream  cheese  made  with 
sheep's  milk)  would  seem  to  be  the 
staple  produce  of  the  land.  The  city 
is  crossed  by  the  Arlanzon.  The  Pico, 
a  smaller  stream,  passes  through  some 
portions,  and  is  divided  into  several 
water-  courses  called  esguevas. 


Sights.— Cathedral, S.  Agueda,  Huel- 
gaa,eta;  Castle; old  bouses;  La Cartaja, 

«»t  C**DHL-The  see  of  Oca  (Auca), 
i  place  situated  8  leagues  from  Burgos, 
is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  San- 
tiago {the  Apostle  .St.  James),  when 
on  his  way  from  Oalicia  to  Zaragozn 
he  stopped,  in  this  Roman  colony, 
whose  foundation  some  Spanish  his- 


torians gravely  ascribe  to  the  sons  of 
Tubal,  Noah's  grandchildren.  In  1075 
Alfonso  VI.  caused  it  to  be  removed  to 
Burgos,  and  gave  to  the  church  about 
to  be  built  several  of  his  palaces.  From 
political  motives  it  was  declared  exenta, 
and  depended  directly  from  Rome  until 
it  became  metropolitan  in  the  reign  of 
Philip  II.,  who  obtained  from  Pope 
Gregory  XIII.  the  grant  of  this  privi- 
lege. 

General  Style. — Thi*  cathedral  is  un- 
doubtedly one  of  the  finest  in  Europe, 
and  one  which  must  be  looked  upon, 
saving  portions  which  belong  to  subse- 


quent periods,  as  a  grand  and  perfect 
specimen  of  the  13th  century  Gothic  in 
Spain.  The  principal  characteristics 
are,  great  purity  of  style,  harmony 
between  the  parts,  great  pomp  and 
beauty  of  ornament  It  is  not  bo  grace- 
ful, elegant,  and  airy  as  the  cathedral 
of  Leon,  but  more  sublime,  richer  in 
details,  both  outside  and  in  the  inte- 
rior, and  possessing  more  striking  out- 
ward picturesqueness  and  character, 
notwithstanding  its  unfortunate  posi- 
tion on  uneven  ground,  and  the  vicinity 
of  choking  hovels.  The  cathedral 
belongs  chiefly  to  the  earliest  period 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 


71 


of  ogival  architecture  in  Spain,  though 
in  it  may  be  studied  the  ogive  in  its 
different  modifications  from  the  13th  to 
the   16th  century.     The  ornamenta- 
tion is  overdone  in  parts,  but  it  is 
always    chaste    and    beautiful.      The 
sculpture  is  very  good  and  effective. 
There  are  few  paintings.  Foundation. — 
Ferdinand  el  Santo  founded  this  church 
in  honour  of  his  marriage  with  Dona 
Beatrice,    daughter    of   the  Duke    of 
Suabia.     Bishop  Maurice,  an  English- 
man by  birth,  laid  the  first  stone,  to- 
gether with  the  king  and  the  Infante 
Antonio  de  Molina,  July  20, 1221.    The 
Bishop  'it  was  who  had  negotiated  the 
marriage  and  accompanied  the  princess 
to  Burgos.   He  had  also  aided  the  king 
with  his  counsel  and  influence  in  civil 
wars,  and  done  much  towards  inclining 
his  mind  to  undertake  the  building.    It 
was  not,  however,  Llaguna  asserts,  during 
Bishop  Maurice's  rule,  and  under  his 
active  direction,  zeal,  and  lofty  spirit, 
that  the  main  body  of  the  edifice  was  com- 
pleted, but  only  a  portion  of  it,  which  is 
distinct  in  style  from  the  rest.  The  name 
of  the  architect  is  unknown.     When 
descried  from  a  distance,  the  impres- 
sion is  that  of  a  most  striking  edifice. 
The  towers  and  filigree  pinnacles  are 
then  seen  rising  into  the  blue  ether,  so 
airy  and  open-worked,  that  by  night  the 
stars  may  be  seen  through  them.    The 
elegant  curve  formed  on  the  E.  side  by 
the  prolongation  of  the  lateral  naves 
round  the  apse  is  somewhat  concealed 
by  the    chapel  of  the  Constables,    a 
church  in  itself,  and  the  quadrangular 
one  of  Santiago.     The  lateral  outlines 
of  the  building  have  lost  also  some  of 
their  original  symmetry  on  the  N.  side, 
although  they  gained  variety  from  the 
several  additions  made  to  the  main  body 
of  chapels  and  offices.    But  a  remark- 
able trait  of  architectural  beauty,  not 
always  observed  in  buildings  of  any 
sort,  is  here  very  admirably  effected;  we 


mean  that  the  forms  should  be  bold 
projections  or  reproductions  in  relief 
of  the  internal  parts,  as  in  embossing. 
Thus  in  this  cathedral  the  eye  embraces 
the  inward  distribution  at  one  glance 
from  the  shape  of  the  parts  outside  ;  we 
see  the  Constable's  chapel  plainly,  with 
its  delicate  open-worked  turrets  at  the 
angles  and  thirty-two  statuettes  of  saints, 
forming  a  separate  portion,  differing  in 
ornaments  and   appearance   from  the 
rest.     The  transept  or  crucero,  which 
belongs  to  the  Renaissance,  rises  higher, 
and  has  an  octagonal  shape,  with  eight 
turrets  ornamented  with  twenty-four  full 
relievo  heads,  and  twenty-four  full-sized 
statues  of  female  saints,  the  virtues,  etc. , 
all  canopied  ;  each  turret  is  crowned 
with  an  angel  holding  an  iron  cross. 
There  are  numberless  statues,  statuettes 
of  kings  and  saints  and  prophets,  placed 
between  or  under  the  corridors  that  run 
round  the  crucero  outside.   On  the  four 
large  pilasters  at  the  angles  are  large 
open-worked  capitals;  all  the  rest  of 
this  portion  of  the  cathedral  rests  on 
the  four  toral  arches. 

Facades. — The  principal  facade  W.  is 
the  Puerta  del  Perdon,  or  of  Sta.  Maria, 
composed  of  three  portals  corresponding 
with  the  three  naves  ;  at  each  side  of 
the  fagade  are  two  towers  of  goodly 
size,  very  light  and  airy.  The  por- 
tals have  pointed  arches.  This  portion 
of  the  fagade  was  formerly  richly  de- 
corated with  statues,  etc.,  which  dis- 
appeared in  1794,  when  the  chapter, 
seized  by  the  contagious  spirit  of  inno- 
vation and  modernising,  removed  much 
of  what  constituted  the  beauty  of  this 
fagade,  and  introduced  a  paltry  Greco- 
Roman  front.  The  only  remnants  of  the 
former  sculpture  are  the  Coronation  of 
the  Virgin,  on  the  portal  to  the  right ; 
the  Conception  on  the  left  one  ;  and  at 
the  sides  of  the  central  portal  the  statues 
of  King  Alfonso  VI.,  Ferdinand  III.  (the 
Saint),  and  the  Bishops  Maurice  and 


rs 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 


Arterio  of  Oca.  The  second  tier  or 
stage  of  this  facade  is  formed  by  an  open- 
worked  balustrade  corridor,  with  turrets 
and  a  fine  rose-window  with  trefoils ; 
over  this  portion  there  are  large  ogival 
windows  with  Gothic  tracery,  and  the 
third  and  last  stage  consists  of  two 
very  richly  ornamented  windows,  some- 
what like  agimeces,  and  divided  into 
different  compartments  by  pointed  mi- 
nute arches,  pillarets,  and  open-worked 
roses,  with  eight  statues  of  youths  with 
crowns.  This  stage  is  finished  by  a 
balustrade  which  links  the  two  lateral 
towers,  and  whose  open-work  composes 
the  words,  'Pulchra  es  et  decora,'  in 
praise  of  the  Virgin,  whose  image,  hold- 
ing the  Infant  Deity  and  surrounded  by 
angels,  is  in  the  centre  and  under  a 
canopy.  On  the  capitals  on  the  sides 
are  the  words  *  Pax  vobis'  and  the  Vir- 
gin's monogram ;  on  the  left,  *  Ecce 
Agnus  Dei/  and  the  monogram  of  Christ. 
The  statues  of  the  Saviour  and  of  St.  John 
the  Baptist  are  here,  and  correspond 
with  the  inscription.  There  are  around 
the  lateral  towers,  at  different  stages, 
not  less  than  seventy-three  statues,  life- 
size;  representing  the  Evangelists,  doc- 
tors of  the  church,  and  saints.  The 
towers  themselves  are  300  ft.  high, 
and  rise  (separately  from  the  main 
body)  from  the  porch  only,  this  lower 
part  being  the  only  one  ascribed  to  Bp. 
Maurice.  The  higher  portions  of  these 
towers  are  the  work  of  Juan  de  Colonia, 
who  had  just  arrived  in  Spain,  and  who 
undertook  them  in  1442.  The  two 
towers  were  built  by  Bishops  Cartagena 
and  Acuiia,  whose  shields  are  placed  at 
the  base  and  summit ;  they  are  admi- 
rable examples  of  the  Gothic  in  its 
purest  and  richest  forms,  and  the  effect 
produced  is  enhanced  by  the  warm, 
white,  marble-like,  and  transparent 
stone  of  Ontoria,  out  of  which  they 
are  cut  and  worked. 
The  Puerto,  Alia,  also  called  de  la  Co- 


roneria,  or  Los  Apdstoles,  is  one  of  the 
transept  ingresses  on  the  N.,  and  the 
pendant  to  that  of  El  Sarmental.  It  it 
harmonious  in  composition  and  of  good 
style.  The  portal  is  ogival,  with  con- 
centric arches,  profusely  decorated  with 
effigies  of  saints  and  fantastical  figures. 
In  the  centre  of  the  arch  is  a  Christ 
seated  ;  on  His  right  the  Virgin,  and  on 
His  left  St.  John,  both  lifting  up  thedi 
hands  to  Him  in  a  supplicant  manner  ; 
different  other  figures  representing  the 
good  and  evil  angels,  with  details,  are 
said  to  represent  the  struggle  of  good 
and  evil ;  and  man  praying  his  Maker 
to  intercede  on  his  behalf.  The  exe- 
cution is  very  rude.  Over  the  door 
is  exhibited  a  church  with  its  belfry, 
with  statues  on  the  sides:  those  on  the 
left  are  said  to  represent  St.  Domingo  oi 
Guzman  and  St.  Francis  of  Assise  ask- 
ing the  King  of  Castile  to  grant 
to  them  the  papal  bulls  to  found 
the  orders  of  Dominicans  and  Francis- 
cans. The  upper  and  second  stage  of 
this  facade  consists  of  two  large  ogival 
windows  of  early  Gothic.  In  the  third 
are  agimez  lights,  sixteen  statues  in 
niches  and  otherwise.  This  door  is 
some  30  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  nave. 
To  the  right  is  a  railed-in  chapel,  with 
an  effigy  of  our  Lady  of  Joyfulness 
(Alegria)! 

The  Puerto,  de  la  Pellegeria  is  situated 
in  an  angle  of  the  transept  towards  the  E. ; 
the  style  is  plateresque,  and  the  composi- 
tion of  the  whole,  including  elegance  of 
form  and  richness  of  details,  renders  this 
portal  a  magnificent  specimen  of  the 
Spanish  silversmith  work  as  applied  to 
the  revival  of  architecture,  whence  the 
plateresque  derived  its  name.  It  is  di- 
vided into  three  perpendicular  compart- 
ments. In  the  lateral  are  statues  of  Sant- 
iago, St.  John  the  Baptist,  etc.  That  of 
the  centre  is  subdivided  into  two  parts, 
the  lower  occupied  by  the  door,  the 
sides  of  which  are  profusely  decorated 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 


73 


with  minute  details  and  statuettes,  and 
the  upper  portion  is  filled  with  sculpture 
representing  the  martyrdom  of  SS. 
John  the  Baptist  and  the  Evangelist 
Over  this  is  a  Virgin  and  Child,  a 
bishop  kneeling,  and  angels  playing  on 
flutes  and  other  instruments.  On  the 
sides  are  the  effigies  of  SS.  Peter  and 
Paul ;  a  cornice  runs  over  this  sort  of 
relablo,  and  is  crowned  with  the  escut- 
cheon of  Bishop  Fonseca,  who  defrayed 
the  expenses  of  this  beautiful  portal. 
I  to  name,  'pellegeria,'  is  derived  from 
a  street  that  once  existed  there,  and  was 
chiefly  inhabited  by  fellmongers. 

Puerto  del  Sarrnental,  also  called  del 
Arzobispo,  is  divided  into  three  por- 
tions, and  corresponds  with  the  portal 
of  the  Apostles.  It  is  ascended  from 
the  transept  floor  by  a  staircase  of 
twenty-eight  steps ;  the  door  is  decorated 
with  statues  of  Moses  and  Aaron,  and 
the  Apostles  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  etc. 
In  the  tympanum  of  the  doorway  is  the 
Saviour  amid  the  four  Evangelists  in 
the  act  of  writing  the  Gospels,  with 
their  attributes  ;  below  this  are  twelve 
Apostles.  Around  the  same  arch  are 
forty-five  images  of  seraphs,  cherubs, 
and  angels,  holding  candles,  censers, 
and  musical  instruments.  In  the  third 
stage  there  are  three  windows,  with 
pillarets,  angels,  and  arches,  inter- 
twined in  the  style  of  the  Gothic  at  its 
third  and  latter  period.  The  rose- 
window  is  magnificent,  with  painted 
glass  of  14th  century,  of  rich  hue  and 
good  execution.  There  are  about  sixty- 
four  statues  in  all.  It  is  called  Sarmen- 
tal from  the  name  (sarmientos,  vine- 
shoots)  of  a  wealthy  family  who  gave 
up  the  houses  they  held  hereabouts  to 
the  cathedral. 

There  are  some  Gothic  tombs  of  good 
style,  belonging  to  the  14th  century,  at 
the  sides  of  the  steps  leading  to  the 
Puerta  del  Sarmental.  They  contain 
the  bodies  of  prelates ;   and  are  very 


curious  for  their  sculpture,  and  the 
manner  and  spirit  of  the  scenes  repre- 
sented— the  torments  of  Hades,  delights 
of  Heaven,  etc. 

Interior. — The  form  is  a  Latin  cross. 
The  dimensions  are : — Length,  300  ft. 
(Spanish),  from  the  door  of  Sta.  Maria 
(Perdon)  to  Chapel  del  Condestable ; 
width,  213  ft  between  the  door  of  the 
Sarmental  to  that  of  La  Coroneria,  93  ft 
being  the  average  breadth  throughout, 
and  193  ft  its  greatest  height.  There 
are  three  naves,  which  are  cut  perpen- 
dicularly by  that  which  runs  parallel 
to  the  principal  facade.  The  central 
one  is  lofty,  airy,  and  bold  ;  the  lateral 
ones  are  lower  and  of  smaller  propor- 
tions. They  are  separated  by  twenty 
pillars  of  octagonal  form,  strong  and 
massive,  yet  neither  heavy  nor  incon- 
gruous, but  rather  made  light,  slender, 
and  elegant  by  the  engaged  shafts.  The 
interior  generally  breathes  a  spirit  of 
solemnity,  serenity,  grandeur,  and  noble 
strength.  The  natural  whiteness  of 
the  stone,  augmented  by  the  light 
caused  by  the  absence  of  painted  glass, 
gives  it  a  new  appearance,  as  if  the 
building  had  been  but  yesterday  com- 
pleted. The  stained  glass,  mostly  put 
up  in  the  14th  century,  was  very  beau- 
tiful. It  was  destroyed  by  the  explo- 
sion of  the  castle  in  1813.  The  pave- 
ment, unworthy  of  the  rest,  is  about  to 
be  removed  and  replaced  by  beautiful 
Carrara,  towards  which  expense  the 
Queen  of  Spain  has  recently  given  6000 
dollars  (about  £1200).  The  minor  bay, 
which,  with  the  larger,  forms  the  cross, 
begins  at  the  Portal  del  Sarmental, 
and  ends  at  the  Puerta  Alta.  The 
Lantern. — At  the  point  of  intersec- 
tion of  these  two  bays  is  placed  the 
crucero  or  Lantern,  the  gem  of  the 
whole  edifice,  which  was  called  so  by 
Charles  V.,  who  added  that  it  ought  to 
be  placed  in  a  case,  and  not  be  seen  &s 
other  ordinary  works,  and  Philip  II. 


74 


BURGOS — CATHEDRA!,. 


3aid  it  was  rather  the  work  of  angels 
than  of  man.  The  lofty  dome,  or  cim- 
borio,  was  finished  on  December  4, 
1567,  and  replaced  the  prior  one  which 
fell  in  in  March  1539.  To  the  present 
one  all  the  Burgalese  contributed  with 
their  parse,  and  especially  so  Card. 
Juan  Alvarez  de  Toledo,  son  of  the 
Duke  of  Alva,  and  his  mother,  whose 
escutcheons  are  displayed  with  that  of 
Charles  V.  on  the  pillars  towards  the 
presbytery.  It  was  designed  by  Maese 
Philip  Vigarni  alias  De  Borgona,  and 
executed  by  him  and  Juan  Castafieda 
and  Juan  de  Vallejo,  both  from  Burgos. 
Philip  Vagarni  was  also  a  Burgalese. 

The  Transept — The  transept  is  formed 
by  four  very  large  piers,  which  rise  like 
so  many  towers,  and  are  decorated  with 
a  profusion  of  sculpture  of  great  deli- 
cacy, taste,  and  richness.  These  may 
be  divided  into  four  stages  ;  the  lower 
one  is  octagonal,  and  forms  the  pedestal 
or  basement,  and  is  decorated  with  six- 
teen mezzo-relievo  figures,  allegorical  of 
Prudence,  Justice,  Charity,  Prayer, 
etc. ,  and  Prophets.  In  the  second  the 
pillars  are  fluted,  and  bear  shields  of 
the  said  Archbp.  Alvarez  de  Toledo  and 
those  of  the  cathedral.  In  the  third 
and  fourth  are  twenty  full-sized  statues 
of  doctors  of  the  church,  apostles,  etc. 
From  the  cornice  spring  the  four  torcti 
or  main  arches  from  amid  bunches  of 
fruit.  They  are  richly  decorated,  and 
bear  four  angels  holding  scrolls  with 
date  of  building.  At  each  angle  there 
is  a  statue,  size  of  life,  supporting  the 
cimborio,  and  over  them  angels,  shells, 
and  busts.  At  the  eight  angles  there 
are  seraphs,  waving  banners  bearing 
arms  of  the  cathedral,  round  which  is 
the  versicle,  '  I  will  praise  Thee  in  Thy 
temple,  and  will  glorify  Thy  name, 
Thou  whose  works  are  miracles. '  There 
are  numberless  statues  of  prophets,  pin- 
nacles, etc.,  under  the  galleries,  over 
the  windows,   etc.      This   lantern    is 


roofed  in  by  an  elegant  dome,  the  pat* 
tern  of  which  is  a  star  ;  the  height  oi 
this  from  the  pavement  is  173  ft  The 
style  of  this  magnificent  work  is  Re- 
naissance, with  traces  of  the  Gothic  or- 
namentation of  the  third  period ;  the 
composition  and  execution  of  the  sculp- 
ture is  classic  and  pure.  There  is  in 
the  whole  a  splendour,  a  breadth,  a 
boldness  seldom  equalled  in  any  other 
work.  The  exterior  is  very  beautiful 
also  ;  the  stone  of  Ontoria,  out  of  which 
it  has  been  made,  enhances  the  effect. 
High  Altar.  — The  style  of  the  retablo 
belongs  to  the  Revival,  and  comprises 
the  three  orders.  It  is  full  of  relievos, 
with  subjects  drawn  from  the  life  of 
the  Virgin,  and  statues  of  apostles  and 
saints.  The  elaborate  sagrario  is  de- 
corated with  relievos  representing  scenes 
from  the  Old  and  New  Testament.  This 
retablo  was  designed  and  executed  by 
Rodrigo  and  his  brother  Martin  del 
Haya  for  40,000  ducats.  It  was  gilt 
and  estofado  by  Urbina  of  Madrid  and 
Martinez  of  Valladolid  for  1 1, 000  ducats, 
which  were  given  by  Bishop  Vela,  1596. 
The  sculpture  was  begun  in  1577,  and 
completed  in  1593,  and  is  generally  con- 
sidered good.  To  the  right  of  the  altar 
are  the  tombs  of  the  Infante  Don  Juan 
(son  of  Alfonso  the  Learned),  Count 
Don  Sancho,  and  his  wife  Beatrice.  For 
this  reason  it  is  called  a  Capilla  Real. 
In  the  Transagrario  are  alto-relievos 
representing  the  Passion  of  Christ. 
These  spirited  ivory-like  compositions 
date  1540,  and  are  the  work  of  Juan  de 
Borgona.  Between  the  pillars  of  the 
central  nave  are  six  rejas,  which  are 
fixed  on  jasper  pedestals  and  grees. 
Those  on  each  side  of  the  presbytery 
are  of  bronze  wrought  for  Archbishop 
Navarretto  by  a  lay  monk  called  P. 
Martinez.  They  are  all  very  beautiful. 
On  the  outside  of  the  above-mentioned 
pillars  of  the  central  nave  are  ftatnes  oi 
saints,  etc.,  the  size  of  life. 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 


75 


The  Choir  is  very  fine,  and  is  com- 
posed of  103  walnut  stalls  divided  into 
two  tiers.  In  the  Lower  Tier  the  arms, 
back,  and  seat  are  ornamented  with 
delicate  hox  sculpture.  Between  them 
are  pilasters  full  of  mouldings,  and  all 
literally  covered  with  flowers,  ornaments, 
human  figures,  chimeras,  fantastic  ani- 
mals and  foliage,  the  pasamanos  or 
balusters  being  most  originally  deco- 
rated with  quaint  figures.  The  backs 
are  ornamented  with  relievo  medallions 
representing  scenes  from  the  life  of  the 
Virgin,  and  martyrdoms  of  different 
saints.  In  the  Upper  Tier  there  are  also 
abundant  mouldings,  inlaid  and  figured. 
The  backs  and  respaldos  are  ornamented 
with  relievos  from  the  New  Testament, 
crowned  with  a  bust  In  this  tier  runs 
a  series  of  alternately-placed  columns 
varied  in  sculpture  with  figures,  and 
terminated  by  a  sort  of  canopy.  In  the 
front  are  medallions  representing  scenes 
from  the  Old  Testament,  and  in  the 
intermediate  spaces  are  statuettes  of 
apostles,  sibyls,  and  various  saints.  Ob- 
serve all  the  phases  of  the  Creation, 
the  legend  of  the  deluge,  the  poem  of 
Abraham,  and  the  story  of  Jacob.  On 
the  backs  of  this  upper  tier  are  scenes 
from  the  New  Testament  On  those  of 
thelower  tier  are  scenes  already  described, 
and  statuettes  of  saints,  the  third  being 
St.  Atendio  riding  the  devil,  who,  ac- 
according  to  legends  and  Father  Feijoo 
(*  Cartas  Eruditas,'  fttc.,  vol.  i.;  p.  24), 
took  him  from  Jaen  to  Rome  in  one 
night.  The  stalls  are  of  different 
periods  and  artists  ;  the  lower  is  the 
best  and  most  classical.  This  fine  Re- 
naissance Italian-like  work  dates  1497- 
1512.  The  choir  was  formerly  near 
the  high  altar,  and  Bishop  La  Fuerte 
Ampudia  had  it  removed  to  satisfy  cer- 
tain ideas  of  precedence.  The  archi- 
episcopal  stall  or  throne  is  a  copy  of 
that  of  Granada,  and  much  ornamented 
irith  statuettes,  scenes  from  Scripture, 


etc.  Card.  Zapata,  a  great  benefactor 
of  the  cathedral,  had  it  enclosed  and 
railed  in.  The  trascoro  or  reredos  was 
put  up  at  a  cost  of  10,000  ducats,  but 
as  it  did  not  please  those  artist-prelates 
of  the  times,  it  was  pulled  down,  and 
the  present  one,  costing  a  similar  sum, 
substituted.  The  splendid  reja,  which 
cost  5500  ducats,  is  the  work  of  J.  B. 
Celma  (1602),  and  the  gift  of  Cardinal 
Zapata,  whose  canting  arms,  boots  and 
shoes,  are  placed  here. 

The  trascoro  pillars  rise  upon  jasper 
greesand  pedestals ;  there  are  two  statues 
of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  of  white  marble, 
brought  from  Italy.  The  relievo  repre- 
sents St  Paul  in  the  desert,  fed  miracu- 
lously with  loaves  brought  by  philan- 
thropic crows.  The  sculptor  was  a 
Carthusian  monk  called  Leiva,  ob.  1637. 
All  the  relievos,  columns,  statues  of 
saints,  and  altar-pieces,  were  the  work 
of  Bishop  Manso  of  Zuniga,  who  gave 
16,000  ducats  towards  it,  and  the  sculp- 
tor was  one  Fray  Juan  de  Rizi,  a  Bene- 
dictine monk. 

The  organs  are  small,  but  good.  The 
tone  is  distinctly  superior  to  that  of 
most  Spanish  organs.  Under  the  first 
lectern,  placed  at  the  entrance  of  choir, 
is  the  jacent  effigy  of  Bishop  Maurice, 
'Pontifex  et  Fundator,'  ob.  1240,  of 
whose  family  little  is  known  else  than 
that  he  was  an  Englishman  by  birth, 
and  that  he  was  elected  Bishop  of  Bur- 
gos in  121 4.  The  Virgin  on  the  second 
lectern  is  by  Ancheta,  and  considered 
very  fine  (1578). 

Chapels. — These  number  fifteen,  but 
differ  in  style  and  proportions,  as  they 
were  built  at  different  periods,  and  are 
therefore  not  in  keeping  with  the  main 
portion  of  the  church.  Chapel  of  Sta. 
Tecla. — A  church  in  itself ;  tawdry, 
though  much  admired  by  the  natives, 
whom  glitter  and  gaudiness  delight,  of 
churrigurcsque  style,  founded  by  Arch- 
bishop Samaniego  in  1734.     The  media 


76 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 


naranja,  or  dome,  is  well  executed,  the 
colours  are  fresh  as  the  first  day.  On 
the  site  of  the  present  baptistery,  old 
and  curious  in  its  way,  there  was  for- 
merly a  small  chapel  of  Santiago,  in 
which  Alfonso  XI.  instituted  the  order 
of  knighthood  of  La  Vanda  (the  badge) 
in  1330,  of  which  the  Catholic  kings 
were  brothers,  cbfradea  (companions). 
Chapel  o/Sta.  Ana. — Not  very  interest- 
ing in  itself,  but  see  round  the  urna  the 
sculptured  genealogical  tree  of  Christ, 
beginning  with  Abraham  and  finishing 
at  Christ.  Founded  by  Bishop  Acuiia, 
1474,  of  florid  Gothic  style.  The  statu- 
ary here  is  not  very  good.  There  is  a 
Holy  Family,  ascribed  to  Andrea  del 
Sarto ;  a  St.  Philip  Neri  and  St.  Francis, 
by  M.  Cerezo ;  the  few  others  here  are  in- 
different. Bosarte  and  other  connoisseurs 
mention  with  encomium  the  small  Go- 
thic altar  and  retablo,  with  tomb  of 
Archdeacon  Fuente  Pelayo,  ob.  1492, 
enriched  with  sculptured  scenes  from 
the  New  Testament ;  the  other  sepul- 
chres, including  that  of  the  founder, 
are  not  very  fine,  and  date  15th  century. 
Escalera  (staircase)  de  la  Puerto  Alta. — 
This  staircase  of  38  steps  was  rendered 
necessary  from  the  uneven  site  upon 
which  the  cathedral  stands.  It  is  a 
magnificent  specimen  of  its  kind,  and 
of  Renaissance  style,  not  exempt  from 
Gothic  details.  The  plan  is  novel,  the 
work  most  elaborate,  and  the  effect 
charming.  It  is  ascribed  to  Diego  Siloe, 
whose  handling  of  foliage,  children, 
lion's  claws,  griffins,  draperies,  etc., 
are,  says  Bosarte,  'not  be  mistaken 
with  those  of  any  other  sculptor. '  The 
iron  balustrade  was  wrought  by  Cristobal 
Andino.  The  sepulchral  altar  of  Ber- 
nardino Gutierrez  is  remarkable  for  the 
exquisitely -sculptured  children  over  the 
arch  ;  the  artist's  name  is  not  known — 
some  ascribe  it  to  Torrigiano,  M.  Angelo's 
rival  In  the  same  nave  is  the  very  old 
chapel  of  San  Nicolds.      On  the   left 


entering  is  a  tomb,  with  standing  effigy 
of  Bishop  Villahoz,  ob.  1 275 ;  as  bodies 
used  at  that  time  to  be  interred  standing 
and  embedded  in  walls,  these  tombs 
were  hence  called  'armarios.'  There 
are  some  portraits  here  of  Pope  Gregory 
XI.,  Canon  of  Burgos  (1371),  and 
Alexander  VI.,  archdeacon  of  the  same 
cathedral,  1492,  etc — Caesar  Borgia,  and 
father  of  Lucrezia  Borgia.  Close  to  it 
is  a  fine  and  richly-sculptured  tomb  of 
the  learned  Archdeacon  Fernandez  Vil- 
legas  (1536),  who  translated  Dante  into 
Spanish. 

Capilla  del  Condestable. — A  conni- 
table,  condestable  (from  which  constable), 
as  the  Latin  etymology  explains  it 
somewhat  (cornea  stabuli,  Ducange, 
etc.),  was  '  an  officer,  so  called,  because, 
like  the  Lord  High  Constable  of  Eng- 
land, he  was  to  regulate  all  matters  of 
chivalry — tilts,  tournaments,  and  feats 
of  arms—which  were  performed  on 
horseback.'  (Blackstone's  Com.  355.) 
He  also  commanded  the  cavalry,  and 
bore  the  royal  standard  in  battle.  This 
chapel  was  founded,  as  the  inscription 
relates,  *  by  D.  Pedro  Fernandez  de  Ve- 
lasco,  Count  of  Haro,  of  the  House  of 
the  Infantes  of  Lara,  five  times  Viceroy 
of  these  realms,  who  was  present  at  the 
wars  of  Portugal  and  Granada,  and  con- 
tributed to  the  Catholic  kings  obtaining, 
these  kingdoms,  etc'  The  Duke  of 
Frias  is  the  present  heir  to  this  founder, 
and  is  the  patron  and  possessor  of  the 
chapel.  It  is  the  largest  and  most 
beautiful  in  the  cathedral  It  was 
built  by  Juan  de  Colonia,  and  parts, 
though  veiy  few,  of  his  works  are  as 
German  as  his  name.  The  style  is  the 
Gothic  florid  (with  somewhat  of  the 
Saracenic  ornament)  of  the  15th  century, 
and  the  ground-plan  is  octagonal,  with 
a.  bold  cimborio  and  large  ogival  win- 
dows. The  entrance  is  magnificent,  and 
formed  by  a  semicircular  arch  full  of 
details,  and  of  that  peculiar  and  intri- 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 


77 


cate  ornament  called  cresteria  (crest- 
work  or  niche-work);  above  it  are  seve- 
ral charming  clusters  of  pinnacles,  with 
statuettes  and  larger  subjects  under  most 
richly-worked  canopies,  looking  like 
piled-up  lace  of  point  d'Angleterre. 
Below  this  portion  of  the  arch  there  are 
numberless  pillarets,  figures,  and  child- 
ren supporting  cornices;  then  come 
other  statuettes  placed  at  the  side  of 
childrsn  with  crowns  of  laurel ;  in  the 
centre  of  one  of  the  latter  is  a  sun  and 
Jesus' name;  in  the  other,  a  cross.  Over 
this  the  Annunciation  of  the  Virgin, 
St.  Gabriel  on  one  side  and  the  Virgin 
on  the  other.  The  railing,  orreja,  is  one 
of  the  finest  specimens  of  Renaissance 
extant,  though  age  and  neglect  have 
done  much  to  efface  its  primary  splen- 
dour and  tarnish  the  colouring,  etc.  It 
was  the  masterwork  of  Cristobal  Andino, 
and  was  wrought  in  1523.  It  is  com- 
posed of  two  bodies  and  an  attic, 
crowned  by  an  asp  or  cross  of  San 
Andres.  Observe  everything  here  : — 
The  two  kneeling  figures  holding  an 
escutcheon ;  the  heads  of  Jesus  and 
Mary ;  and  the  inscription  on  the  other 
side  of  them — the  '  Ego  sum  Alpha  et 
Omega,'  and  statue  of  the  Saviour ; 
the  four-sided  columns,  then  the  ba- 
lustraded  pillars  higher  up.  The  lock 
is  so  contrived  that  nobody  can  open 
the  reja  who  does  not  possess  the 
secret  of  pulling  back  a  certain  spring 
ingeniously  concealed.  The  principal 
retdblo  is  of  the  Revival,  with  traces  of 
the  grutesto,  and  some  remnants  of 
the  primitive  Gothic  one,  which  was 
removed  and  replaced  by  the  present 
one.  It  forms  two  stages  ;  the  first  is 
formed  by  the  Purification  and  figures 
of  the  Virgin,  St.  Joseph,  Infant  Deity, 
etc.,  and  a  girl  carrying  doves  in  a 
basket.  On  ths  cornice  and  on  one 
side  is  a  statue  representing  the  Law 
of  '  Gracia'  (Holy  Grace),  personified  by 
a  young  woman  with  eyes  lifted  up  to 


heaven  ;  as  a  pendant,  is  another  of  the 
"Written  Law,  represented  by  an  aged 
man  holding  a  book.  The  upper  por- 
tion is  filled  by  relievos  of  scenes  from 
the  New  Testament  Over  it  all  are  a 
small  shell  and  a  skulL  There  are  a 
few  other  figures  of  saints,  ascribed  by 
some  to  Becerra,  and  by  others  to  Juni. 
There  are  four  large  stone  escutcheons 
with  arms  of  the  Velascos  on  the  walls, 
supported  by  wild  men  and  women. 
There  are  fourteen  windows  in  the  chapel , 
with  painted  glass,  representing  scenes 
from  Passion  and  arms  of  founders.  The 
statues  of  St.  Austin  and  St.  Jerome 
close  to  the  pillars  are  good,  but  in- 
ferior to  the  same  latter  saint  placed  in 
a  retablo  of  a  small  chapel  on  the  left. 
It  is  by  Becerra,  one  of  Spain's  few  and 
great  sculptors.  The  Gothic  retablo 
opposite  is  very  ancient.  Close  to  the 
steps  of  the  high  altar  are  the  magnifi- 
cent tombs  of  the  founders,  all  of  jasper 
except  the  effigies,  which  are  of  Car- 
rara marble.  They  were  sculptured  in 
Italy  in  1540.  The  effigy  of  the  con- 
stable, who  died  in  1492  when  he  was 
Viceroy  of  Castile,  etc.,  is  lying  armed 
cap-a-pi&,  full  length,  and  the  muscles 
of  his  hands,  elaborate  details  of  his 
mailed  armour,  cushion,  etc.,  are  won- 
derful. There  is  a  huge  block  of  po- 
lished jasper  close  to  it,  now  without 
object,  and  weighing  about  200  cwt. 
The  effigy  of  the  constable's  wife,  *  La 
muy  ilustre  Sefiora  Dona  Mencia  de 
Mendoza,  Condesa  de  Haro '  (ob.  1500, 
aet.  79),  is  also  full  length,  and  lying 
on  richly- embroidered  cushions,  with 
elaborately-embroidered  gloves,  and  a 
lapdog  at  her  feet,  emblem  of  fidelity. 
The  vault  is  under  these  tombs.  In  the 
sacristy  is  the  picture  of  a  Magdalen, 
ascribed  to  Leonardo  da  Vinci ;  the 
colouring  is  beautiful.  Beneath  it  is 
the  little  portable  ivory  altar,  which  the 
constable  carried  about  with  him  in  his 
campaigns ;  the  other  pictures  and  por- 


78 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 


traits  are  inferior.  Ask  for  a  fine  work 
of  Arfe's,  a  cross,  and  several  other 
jealously-guarded  relics.  (N.B. — This 
chapel  must  be  visited  before  12.30, 
or  by  special  arrangement.) 

The  Chapel  of  Santiago  is  the  largest 
in  the  cathedral,  and  serves  as  the 
parish  church.  The  reja,  which  rests 
on  jasper  pedestals,  is  crowned  by  a 
statue  of  the  patron  of  Spain.  There  is 
a  fine  tomb  of  J.  0.  de  Velasco,  Abbot 
of  San  Quirce,  ob.  1557 ;  it  is  placed  on 
the  left  on  entering.  There  is  also  a 
tomb  of  the  Lesmes,  whose  father, 
Pedro  de  Astudillo,  founded  the  cele- 
brated chapel  of  the  Magi  Kings  in  the 
cathedral  of  Cologne.  In  the  high 
altar  there  is  the  apostle  on  horseback. 
In  the  centre  of  the  chapel  lies  Bishop 
Juan  de  Yillacreces,  ob.  1463,  in  an 
alabaster  tomb ;  close  to  it  a  jasper  one 
of  the  Regidor  of  Burgos,  Melgosa,  ob. 
1523,  and  his  wife.  There  are  some  other 
tombs,  of  no  great  merit  either  in  the 
chapel  or  its  sacristy  ;  observe,  never- 
theless, Bishop  Cabeza  de  Vaca's  plater- 
esque  tomb,  1512,  and  that  of  his 
brother  Don  Pedro  (literally  cow's  head, 
an  illustrious  family  in  Spain — Front 
de  Boeuf).  The  five  altars  here  are  in- 
different. 

SacristiaNueva.  — Formerly  composed 
of  two  chapels.  There  are  some  old 
mirrors  and  indifferent  pictures  ascribed 
to  Giordano  (Nativity  of  Christ),  a 
Christ  and  Ecce  Homo  to  Murillo,  and 
in  the  ante-vestry  a  St.  Francis,  as- 
scribed  to  Mateo  Cerezo — all  doubtful. 
The  cajoneria,  or  chest  of  drawers  to 
hold  the  church  and  priest's  ornaments, 
etc.,  are  finely  carved ;  all  the  rest  is 
churrigueresque  and  tawdry.  There  are 
some  curious  objects  :  a  jasper  table,  a 
rich  specimen  of  braseros,  a  fine  proces- 
sional cross,  etc. 

Chapel  of  San  Enrique. — Founded  by 
Archbp.  Peralta,  at  the  cost  of  100,000 
ducats.   Observe  the  magnificent  kneel- 


ing effigy  and  tomb  of  the  founder,  ob. 
1679  ;  the  bronze  lectern  is  good  ;  the 
pavement  and  steps  are  of  alabaster;  the 
stalls  are  inlaid.  In  the  sacristy  is  a 
very  curious  table,  and  a  Dolorosa  and 
Christ  ascribed  to  Cerezo. 

Chapel  of  San  Juan  de  Sahagun. — 
Here  is  the  much- venerated  Virgin  de 
Oca.  Here  is  the  tomb  also  of  the 
Beato  Lesmes,  'hijo  de  Burgos,  abo- 
gado  del  dolor  de  rinones,'  who  is  be- 
lieved to  cure  pains  in  the  kidneys,  and 
said  to  have  earned  this  privilege  by 
the  patience  with  which  he  bore  the 
same  complaint,  which  had  been  caused 
by  constantly  bending  when  he  distri- 
buted corn  to  the  poor.  See  a  picture 
of  a  Christ  de  la  Agoniaf  by  Theoto- 
copuli,  il  Grecco,  whose  signature  is 
placed  at  the  foot  of  the  cross.  In  its 
sacristy  is  the  ground-plan  of  the  cathe- 
dral. The  Relzcario  was  formerly  a 
chapel  of  St.  Peter,  and  abounds  in  the 
usual  gifts  of  kings  and  great  personages, 
consisting  of  legs,  toes,  arms,  jaws, 
teeth,  and  other  parts  of  the  bodies  of 
saints ;  here  is  kept  the  image  of  the 
Virgin  de  Oca,  who  nodded  assent  to  a 
devout  senorita  who  made  her  a  witness  to 
her  faithless  lover's  promise  of  marriage. 

Chapel  of  la  Presentacion. — Spacious; 
founded  by  Canon  Lerma  in  1519. 
Over  the  modern  high  altar  is  a  Virgin, 
ascribed  by  Pouz  and  other  good  con- 
noissuers  to  Michael  Angelo;  others  say 
it  is  rather  by  Sebastian  del  Piombo, 
but  all  concur  in  considering  it  very 
beautifully  executed  and  composed.  It 
was  sent  here  by  a  wealthy  Florentine, 
Mozzi.  A  fine  white  marble  tomb  of 
Canon  Jacobo  de  Bilbao,  who,  a  good 
son,  and  therefore  a  righteous  man, 
erected  a  mausoleum  to  his  *  matri  di- 
lectae'  and  himself  with  the  Christian 
and  simple  epitaph  :  '  Because  I  have 
hoped  in  thee,  O  Lord,  and  have  entrusted 
to  Thee  my  soul. '  Tomb  of  the  founder, 
with  effigy,  said  to  be  a  portrait. 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 


79 


Chapel  of  Santisimo  Gristo  de  la  Ago- 
nia. — Here  is  kept  the  celebrated  and 
much-venerated  Gristo  de  Burgos,  which 
was,  according  to  Florez,  carved  by  Nico- 
demus,  shortly  after  he,  with  Joseph 
of  Arimathea,  buried  our  Lord.  It  was 
found  inside  a  box  floating  in  the  sea, 
and  after  many  eventful  journeys  and 
mishaps,  was  finally  removed  to  this 
cathedral  from  the  convent  of  St  Agus- 
tine  in  1836.  It  certainly  is  of  very 
early  date,  and  most  admirably  model- 
led ;  the  anatomy  perfect,  a  deep  ex- 
pression of  pain ;  the  hair,  beard,  eye- 
lashes, thorns,  are  all  real.  To  this 
image  are  ascribed  numberless  miracles, 
and  it  is  said  to  sweat  on  Fridays,  and 
even  to  bleed  now  and  then.  'Rien 
n'est  plus  lugubre, 'says  a  French  writer, 
'  et  plus  inquietant  a  voir  que  ce  long 
fantdme  crucifie  avec  son  faux  air  de  vie 
etson  immobility  morte.'  The  image 
is  girt  with  a  richly  embroidered  crino- 
line. The  pictures  are  indifferent ;  the 
Descent  from  the  Cross  is  ascribed  to 
Kibera  (Spagnoletto).  The  clocks  of 
the  cathedral  are  not  very  old ;  they  are 
furnished  with  small  figures  that  come 
out  and  strike  the  hour,  and  slide  in 
again,  etc. 

The  Cloisters  are  interesting,  and  date 
middle  of  14th  century.  They  are  spa- 
cious, and  occupy  a  quadrangle,  each 
gallery  being  of  89  ft.  long  by  22  ft. 
broad.  The  walls  from  the  outside  are 
pierced  with  double  arches  pointed  in  the 
shape  of  agimeces  (Moorish  windows), 
subdivided  by  smaller  ones,  and  richly 
ornamented  with  lancet-work,  trefoil, 
pillarets,  roses,  etc.  The  principal  en- 
trance is  of  an  early  date,  and  the  sculp- 
ture and  details  abundant  and  curious. 
On  the  doors  is  a  mezzo-relievo  repre- 
senting Christ's  entrance  into  Jerusa- 
lem, and  other  biblical  and  allegorical 
scenes  and  statues  of  saints,  the  Evan- 
gelists, etc.  :  these  doors  were  given  by 
Bishop  Acuna.     Round  the  arch  are  two 


rows  of  statues,  and  in  the  keystone 
angels  holding  arrows.  In  the  centre 
is  represented  the  Baptism  in  the  Jor- 
dan. A  peculiarity  distinguishing  this 
from  other  similar  scenes  is  that  our 
Lord  is  seated  and  does  not  stand.  It 
is  thought  the  Gothic  sculptor  resorted 
to  this  innovation  to  avoid  the  some- 
what irreverent  representation  of  the 
act  by  immersion,  and  not  by  ablution  ; 
the  limbs  of  the  Saviour  are  actually 
immersed,  to  be  true  to  tradition,  and 
yet  the  figure  is  seated  with  dignity  and 
ease.  Four  statues  of  David,  Isaiah, 
St  Gabriel,  and  the  Virgin,  decorate 
this  splendid  door.  There  is  also  a 
head  of  St  Francis  of  Assis,  said  to  be 
an  extempore  portrait  by  the  sculptor, 
taken  at  the  moment  the  saint  was 
passing  by.  It  is  probable  that  all  the 
figures  on  this  door  were  formerly 
painted. 

In  the  interior  the  ogives  of  the  win- 
dows are  very  pure  in  shape,  and  deco- 
rated profusely  with  foliage,  and  in  the 
centre  with  statues  of  saints  and  Chris- 
tian heroes,  of  good  and  correct  Gothic 
style.  There  are,  besides,  a  great  num- 
ber of  tombs  of  different  periods  and 
styles,  some  with  good  sculptures. 
There  are  five  chapels  also.  On  enter- 
ing, to  the  right,  is  the  tomb  of  Canon 
Aguilar,  with  his  effigy  in  sacerdotal 
robes,  a  dog  at  his  feet,  and  a  closed 
book  in  his  hands  ;  the  date  1 482.  The 
tomb  of  Canon  Gadea,  chaplain  of  the 
Catholic  kings,  and  before  of  Don  En- 
rique, ob.  1483.  The  epitaph  ends, 
*  Virtus  socia  vitae  fuit.  Gloria  mortis 
comes.'  The  dress  of  a  knight  at  one 
side  of  the  tomb,  railed  in,  is  curious  ; 
on  the  back  is  a  Christ  seated,  with  fig- 
ures and  angels.  The  pictures  are  in- 
different in  the  chapel  de  los  Reyes. 
Proceeding  on,  is  the  tomb  of  Sepul- 
veda,  chaplain  of  the  kings  Don  Juan 
and  Don  Enrique  of  Castile.  Observe 
especially  the  tomb  of  Canon  Santander 


80 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 


ob.  1523 — a  magnificent  work,  full  of 
details  delicate  and  chaste.  See  the 
charming,  youthful,  loving  Virgin  and 
Child,  forming  a  relievo  in  the  centre 
of  the  arch,  and  carved  out  of  the  beau- 
tiful white  Ontoria  stone  ;  the  attitude 
of  the  head,  breathing  maternal  love, 
and  the  ecstacy  at  being  chosen  the  mo- 
ther of  God,  remind  one  somewhat  of  that 
in  Raphael's  'Vergine  della  Seggiola.' 
There  is  a  freedom,  a  boldness  of  com- 
position and  execution  seldom  attempt- 
ed by  artists  of  those  times.  She  holds 
with  her  right  hand  a  book  opened,  with 
her  left  the  Infant,  of  exquisite  model- 
ling. There  are  escutcheons  with  fleurs- 
de-lys,  etc. 

In  the  third  gallery  is  a  door  leading 
up  to  the  archives,  which  contain  very 
early  and  curious  documents  concerning 
the  cathedral.  In  a  chapel  lies  the 
tomb  of  Juan  Cuchiller.  He  was  ser- 
vant, or  rather  a  knight  trenchant  (cu- 
chiller, cuchillo)  to  Henry  III.  el  Enfer- 
mo,  and  a  rara  avis  amongst  his  kind, 
who  sold  his  coat  to  buy  de  cenar  for 
his  master.  Happy  times !  for  now  it 
is  rather  masters  who  have  finally  to 
sell  their  coats  to  procure  suppers  for 
their  flunkeys.  The  effigy  is  of  alabas- 
ter ;  a  dog,  the  emblem  of  fidelity,  lies 
at  his  feet.  On  the  wall  is  affixed  a 
heavy  dark-looking  trunk,  called  El 
cofre  del  Cid.  This  is  supposed  to  be 
one  of  the  two  trunks  which  he  filled 
with  sand  and  left  as  security  to  the 
Burgalese  Jews,  Rachel  and  Vidas,  for 
a  loan  of  600  marks,  assuring  them  that 
they  contained  all  his  jewels  and  gold, 
but  that  they  were  not  to  open  them 
until  his  return.  There  is  no  proof  or 
evidence  in  the  'Romancero,'  *  Cr6ntca 
Rimada/  etc.,  of  his  having  ever  repaid 
either  the  principal  or  interest.  But 
Mio  Cid  was  then  in  want  of  money  for 
the  conquest  of  Valencia,  and  this  hero, 
who  '  fought  for  his  bread,'  was  as  un- 
scrupulous as  heroes  have  always  been, 


and  always  will  be.  He,  a  Christian 
knight,  headed  infidel  armies  against 
his  fellow-Christians ;  he,  a  Castilian 
lord,  rebelled  and  fought  against  hid 
king ;  he  betrayed  not  only  these 
money-lenders,  thus  out-Jewing  the 
Jews  (for  to  do  so  was  a  merit  in  those 
times),  but  Alfonso,  the  Moorish  kings, 
his  allies,  everybody,  and  practised  but 
too  well  the  Al-harbo  Khod'aton  of 
Mahomet  (Arabice,  to  wage  war  is  to 
betray).  It  is  only  fair  to  say,  however, 
that  the  '  CnSnica  del  Famoso  Cavallero 
Cid  Ruy  Diez  Campeador,'  Cap.  ccxvi., 
distinctly  asserts  that  Alvar  Fafiez  and 
Martin  Antolinez  were  sent  by  the  Cid 
from  Valencia,  and  paid  to  Rachel  and 
Vidas  300  marks  of  gold  and  300  marks 
of  silver  for  these  two  chests.  There 
is  at  least  a  probability  that  is  the 
original  and  genuine  complement  of 
the  legend,  told  in  honour  of  the  Cid. 
This  old  trunk  is  undoubtedly,  says  a 
French  writer,  '  La  doyenne  des  malles 
du  monde,'  and  contained  some  parch- 
ments till  very  recently. 

Sola  Capitular  contains  some  paint- 
ings ascribed  to  Giordano,  and  a  'St. 
John  the  Evangelist,'  also  ascribed  to 
Murillo.  The  walls  on  great  holidays 
are  hung  with  fine  old  tapestry.  The 
roof  forms  a  fine  artesonado :  around 
the  cornice  run  versicles  from  the  3d 
chap,  of  the  Book  of  Proverbs.  In  the 
Sacristia  Vieja  are  some  fine  Venetian 
mirrors  and  two  coral  branches.  An 
admirably  carved  cajoneria  (presses),  to 
keep  the  beautifully  embroidered  ter- 
nos,  carved  by  a  Benedictine  monk 
called  Pedro  Martinez.  There  are  128 
portraits  of  the  bishops  and  archbishops 
of  Burgos.  The  eighth  arcade  of  the 
fourth  gallery  was  supposed  to  have 
contained  the  former  Royal  Chapel, 
where  Ferdinand  was  married  to  Beat- 
rice by  Maurice,  the  English  Bishop  of 
Burgos,  November  80th,  1219.  Ob- 
I  serve   their  two  former   statues,   and 


BURGOS. 


81 


opposite  four  statuettes  representing 
this  king's  sons,  and  in  the  third  angle 
of  the  cloister  a  statuette  of  Bishop 
Maurice,  also  St.  Ferdinand,  and  two 
other  figures.  There  are  other  cloisters 
beneath,  with  good  sculptures  and  an 
infinity  of  tombs,  statues,  and  epitaphs 
of  13th  and  14th  centuries. 

The  cathedral  contains  7  staircases, 
112  windows,  36  railings,  144  pictures, 
upwards  of  60  tombs  (worked  out  and 
raised  above  the  ground),  7  organs,  9 
baptismal  fonts,  9  choirs,  and  9  lec- 
terns, 10  confessionals,  44  altars,  with 
nearly  100  full-length  statues.  On  en- 
tering the  cathedral,  Sta.  Tecla  is  the 
first  chapel  on  the  right,  and  the  Chapel 
del  Cristo  that  on  the  left.  Church 
opened  from  5  a.m.  to  8  p.m.  High 
mass  with  organ  music  at  9. 30  p.m.  on 
Sundays  and  holidays;  organs  good. 
To  see  jewels,  apply  to  capellan  mayor. 
To  be  seen  only  after  3.30  p.m.  To 
visit  the  archives,  make  copies  of  pic- 
tures, and  the  like,  apply  to  the  cabildo. 

Churches. — Sta.  Agueda  or  Gadea, 
deserves  a  visit,  as  an  historical  monu- 
ment associated  with  the  poetic  and 
chivalrous  legend  of  the  Cid.  It  was 
one  of  theiglesias  juraderas — that  is,  of 
purgation  by  adjuration.  It  was  there- 
fore in  this  chapel  that  Alfonso  VI.  was 
obliged,  in  the  presence  of  the  Cid,  to 
swear  that  he  had  no  part  in  the  mur- 
der of  his  brother  Don  Sancho  at  the 
siege  of  Zamora.  According  to  authen- 
tic history — if  such  there  b» — the  king 
swore  on  the  cerrojo,  or  a  lock,  which 
was  the  touchstone  of  his  veracity ; 
other  authors  say  on  the  Gospels. 

According  to  the  '  Romancero,'  it  runs  thus : 
4  In  Sta.  Agueda,  at  Burgos,  where  knights  are 
wont  to  take  the  oaths,  the  oath  of  Alfonso 
was  also  taken  after  his  brother's  death.  The 
gallant  Cid,  who  held  a  crucifix,  made  him 
swear  the  truth  upon  an  iron  lock,  a  cross- 
bow, and  the  Gospels.  The  words  he  speaks 
are  so  awful  that  the  king  shudders  at  them. 
'  If  thou   shouldst  not  speak   the   truth   on 


what  is  asked  thee,  namely — if  thou  hadst  any 
part  in  the  murder  of  thy  brother — may  knaves 
kill  thee, — knaves  from  Asturias,  and  not  from 
Castile;  may  thee  kill  thee  with  iron-pointed 
bludgeons,  and  not  with  lances  nor  shafts; 
with  horn-handled  knives,  and  not  with  gilt 
poniards.  May  those  that  do  so  wear  clogs, 
and  not  laced  shoes;  may  they  wear  rustics' 
cloaks  and  not  the  Courtray  cloaks,  or  those 
made  of  curled  silk ;  canvas  shirts,  and  not 
Hollands  embroidered ;  may  each  of  them  be 
mounted  on  an  ass,  and  not  on  a  mule  or  a 
horse  ;  may  they  make  use  of  rope-bridles,  and 
not  of  leathern  ones  well  tanned ;  may  they  kill 
thee  in  the  6elds,  and  not  in  a  city  or  a  vil- 
lage ;  and  may  they  tear  thy  heart  all  panting 
from  thy  breast  1'  The  oath  was  so  awful 
that  the  king  did  not  venture  to  take  it.  But 
a  knight,  a  friend  of  the  king,  said  unto  him : 
'  Swear,  and  fear  naught,  brave  king,  for 
never  was  a  king  perjured  nor  a  pope  ex- 
communicated.' The  gallant  king  then  took 
the  oath,  and  swore  he  had  had  no  hand  in 
his  brother's  assassination;  but  even  then  he 
was  filled  with  anger  and  indignation :  '  Thou 
wast  wrong,  O  Cid,  to  make  me  take  that  oath, 
for  later  thou  wilt  have  to  kiss  my  hand.' 
'  To  kiss  a  king's  hand  is  no  honour  to  me. 
'  Get  thee  hence  from  this  my  land,  thou  Cid, 
false  knight,  and  come  not  back  till  a  year  has 
elapsed,' '  etc. 

The  church  is  uninteresting,  com- 
posed of  a  single  ogival  nave  of  a  pure 
style,  and  a  fine  Revival  tomb.  The 
famous  lock  of  the  Cid  was  affixed  up 
out  of  reach  by  Bishop  Don  Pascual  de 
la  Fuente. 

San  Estebam— Gothic  (1280-1350) ; 
formerly  a  convent.  The  portico  is  com- 
posed of  three  stages  of  ogives  with 
figures  canopied,  and  of  good  effect. 
The  interior  is  formed  of  three  spacious 
naves.  The  lofty  arches  are  orna- 
mented with  the  Byzantine  pattern 
called  Qrecas  by  the  Spaniards.  The 
retablos  are  modern ;  a  plateresque 
tomb  on  the  left  of  the  vestry  door; 
pictures  inferior.  San  Pablo  (1415-35, 
now  cavalry  barracks)  contains  some 
fine  Revival  tombs,  of  the  middle  of 
16th  century,  and  a  good  cloister.  In 
San  Nicolas  there  is  a  stone  retablo 
richly  carved,  and  tombs  of  the  16th 
and  beginning  of  16th  century. 


G 


82 


BURGOS — PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 


San  Oil  (14th  century).— -Some  fine 

specimens  of  Gothic  sepulchres  ;  a  very 

interesting  and  elegant  iron  pulpit  and 

fine  retablos  in  chapels  N.  and  S.  of 

choir. 

Streets. — The  finest  parts  of  Burgos 

are  the  Espolon  Nuevo  and  Viejo  and 
the  new  Ensanche,  on  the  Paseo  de  la 
Isla,  together  with  the  Plaza  de  Castilla, 
where  may  be  seen  many  notable  build- 
ings— the  new  Audiencia,  the  Salesas, 
the  Casa  Maguido,  etc.  The  Plaza 
Mayor  is  a  large  square,  designed  by 
Ventura  Rodriguez,  the  last  great  (?) 
architect  of  Spain  (1783).  In  the 
centre  is  a  very  mediocre  bronze  statue 
of  Charles  III. ;  the  fashionable  barrio 
in  former  days  was  in  and  about  the 
Calle  Alta.  The  older  streets  are  Calle 
San  Lorenzo,  Avellanos,  and  San  Juan ; 
the  widest  street  is  del  Huerto  del  Rey. 
The  streets,  ill-paved  and  prosy  for 
one's  feet  as  they  are,  abound,  many  of 
them,  with  associations  of  the  ever- 
poetic  past. 
The  Town  Hall  is  a  modern  building, 

containing  some  very  middling  modern 
portraits,  said  to  be  likenesses  of  Bur- 
galese  worthies.  The  gates  are  most 
picturesque ;  especially  the  Arco  de 
Santa  Maria,  which  is  said  to  have 
been  erected  by  the  Burgalese  on  the 
occasion  of  the  visit  of  Charles  V.,  and 
to  reconcile  him  to  them  after  the  part 
they  had  taken  in  the  Comunero  move- 
ment. It  was  decorated  with  the  statues 
of  the  popular  heroes  of  the  city,  the 
Cid,  Lain  Calvo,  Fernan  Gonzalez,  etc., 
and  that  of  the  Ceesarwas  placed  in  the 
centre.  Over  the  arch,  which  was  origi- 
nally painted  and  gilt,  is  the  image  of 
the  Virgin,  to  whom  it  was  ostensibly 
dedicated.  The  gate  is  ornamented  with 
turrets  and  battlements,  and,  with  the 
circular  (cubo)  bastions  of  the  former 
walls  of  this  once  mighty  capital,  forms 
a  very  effective  and  interesting  spot.  It 
was  erected  on  the  site  of  the  Torre  de 


Santa  Maria,  from  which  Don  Pedro  el 
Ju8ticiero  hurled  the  Justicia  Mayor 
Garci  Laso  de  La  Vega.  The  rooms 
placed  over  the  arch  were  the  former 
Town  Hall  of  the  city  ;  these  have  two 
horseshoe  doors  with  stucco  patterns. 
The  Arco  de  Fernan  Gonzalez  was 
erected  to  the  memory  of  that  hero 
by  Philip  II.  It  is  of  Doric  style,  and 
effective.  Close  by  in  the  Calle  Alta 
was  the  solar,  or  mansion  of  the  Oidy 
on  the  site  of  which  Charles  III.  erected 
(1784)  the  present  paltry  and  insignifi- 
cant monument.  On  the  obelisks  are 
the  shields  of  Burgos  and  of  the  Cid. 

The  Cid  was  born  here  in  1026,  was 
baptized  in  the  Church  of  San  Martin, 
now  no  longer  extant,  and  died  at 
Valencia  in  1099.  His  body  was  re- 
moved from  the  latter  town  to  the 
monastery  of  Cardena,  near  Burgos, 
whence  once  more  it  was  conveyed  to 
the  Town  Hall.  The  bones  of  the  hero 
and  those  of  his  faithful  and  heroic 
Jimena  are  shown  to  visitors  on  obtain- 
ing the  verbal  permiso  of  the  secretary 
of  the  Ayuntamiento.  The  bones  are 
kept  in  a  common  walnut  urn,  placed 
in  a  room  fitted  up  as  a  chapeL 

The  Castle  of  Burgos  is  interesting  in 
an  historical  point  of  view.  It  was  the 
early  palace  of  the  Counts  of  Castile. 
In  959,  Count  Fernan  Gonzalez  brought 
Garcia,  King  of  Navarre,  a  prisoner  here, 
and  confined  him  for  thirteen  months. 
The  bridal  of  the  Cid  took  place  within 
it.  Alfonso  VI.  6*f  Leon  was  taken  here 
after  he  was  made  a  prisoner  by  the  Cid 
in  the  Church  of  Carrion.  Here  St. 
Ferdinand  received  St.  Casilda,  daugh- 
ter of  the  Moorish  King  of  Toledo, 
who  was  converted  to  Christianity.  It 
was  the  birthplace  of  Pedro  the  Cruel : 
Don  Fadrique,  son  of  Enrique  II.  and 
the  first  Spanish  duke,  was  imprisoned 
here;  and  here  again  Edward  I.  of 
England  espoused  Eleanor  of  Castile. 
It  was  in  those  times  a  magnificent 


BURGOS — CASTLE. 


83 


palace,  as  well  as  a  strong  fortress, 
which  was  considerably  strengthened 
in  the  succeeding  reigns.  The  state- 
rooms were  destroyed  by  a  fire  which 
happened  in  1736.  In  Nov.  1808, 
on  Napoleon's  victorious  march  from 
Vitoria  to  Madrid,  at  the  head  of  the 
second  corps  d'armee,  under  Soult, 
Burgos  was  defended  by  Count  Belve- 
der,  at  the  head  of  12,000  men.  Las- 
salle,  after  a  reconnoissance,  retired  to 
his  quarters,  pursued  by  half  the  Spanish 
army,  which  was  at  Gamonal.  The 
French  horsemen  then  turned  sud- 
denly upon  the  assailants,  defeated  these 
and  the  rest,  and  entered  the  town 
p&e-mele.  It  then  became  the  head 
quarters  of  Napoleon.  The  Duke  of 
Wellington,  after  the  battle  of  Sala- 
manca, laid  siege  to  Burgos ;  but,  being 
ill  supported  by  Balesteros,  had  to  raise 
the  siege,  to  avoid  falling  into  the  hands 
of  Soult,  who  was  advancing  at  the 
head  of  overwhelming  numbers.  On 
Sept.  1,  1812,  Wellington  began  this 
siege,  at  the  head  of  very  few  troops, 
and  with  only  three  18-pounders.  The 
castle  was  garrisoned  by  1800  infantry, 
besides  artillerymen,  commanded  by 
the  gallant  Dubreton.  It  was  de- 
fended by  five  enclosures,  which  a 
heavy  casemated  work  called  the  Na- 
poleon battery  cannonaded  on  every  side 
except  to  the  N.,  where  at  some  dis- 
tance another  height,  San  Miguel,  was 
weakly  palisaded.  The  French  pos- 
sessed twenty-six  guns,  besides  the  re- 
serve artillery  of  the  army  of  Portugal. 
The  position  taken  by  the  English 
extended  from  San  Miguel  on  the  left 
of  the  old  camino  real  to  Vitoria,  up  to 
the  island  of  San  Pedro.  On  the  19th, 
notwithstanding  the  strong  batteries 
commanding  the  Arlanzon,  this  river 
was  forded  by  the  first  division,  and  the 
first  assault  made  by  Major  Somers 
Cocks,  supported  by  Pack's  Portuguese. 
Though  the  loss  was  great,  the  hill  of 


San  Miguel  was  gained.  The  plan  of 
the  siege  now  became  clearer.  Head 
quarters  were  fixed  at  Villa  Toro.  Col. 
Burgoyne  conducted  the  operations  of 
the  engineers,  and  the  artillery  was 
placed  under  Robe  and  Dickson.  They 
had  only  three  18-pounders  and  five 
24-pound  howitzers.  The  second  as- 
sault met  with  no  success ;  the  third 
was  also  a  failure,  owing  to  the  darkness 
of  the  night  and  the  fault  of  the  con- 
ducting engineers ;  the  fourth  seemed 
at  first  to  be  attended  with  better  suc- 
cess, but  each  time  the  troops  had  ad- 
vanced, Dubreton  *  came  thundering 
down  from  the  upper  ground,  levelling 
all  the  works,  carrying  off  all  the  tools, 
etc. '  Major  Cocks  was  killed,  with  200 
killed  or  wounded.  After  the  fifth  as- 
sault, the  French  regained  some  import- 
ant positions,  gallantly  obtained  by 
the  English,  who  had  once  more  to  fall 
back  on  their  former  lines.  The  news 
came  now  that  Soult  was  marching 
from  Granada,  King  Joseph  was  mov- 
ing upon  Madrid,  and  Souham  concen- 
trating Caffarelli's  troops  with  his  own 
at  Briviesca.  The  English  army,  with- 
out ammunition,  ill  -  provisioned,  de- 
spondent, and  even  growing  insub- 
ordinate, had  to  raise  the  siege,  and 
Wellington  determined  to  endeavour  to 
join  Hill.  This  retreat  was  effected 
after  thirty-three  days  of  investment, 
and  a  loss  of  upwards  of  2000  men. 
The  movement  was  skilfully  concerted, 
and  boldly  carried  out  on  the  21st  In 
June  1813,  the  castle,  still  in  posses- 
sion of  the  French,  had  not  been  re- 
paired, but  rather  so  neglected  that  it 
was  declared  untenable.  Before  the 
advancing  duke,  King  Joseph  retreated. 
The  castle  was  mined,  but  the  mines  so 
hurriedly  or  unskilfully  exploded  that 
they  destroyed  about  300  French,  ruined 
several  streets,  and  thousands  of  shells, 
being  ignited  and  driven  upwards,  fell 
on  several  buildings,  which  they  com- 


84 


BURGOS — LAS   HUELGAS. 


pletely  destroyed  or  mutilated.  It  was 
then,  and  by  that  terrific  explosion, 
that  the  beautiful  painted  glass  windows 
in  the  cathedral  were  destroyed.  The 
castle  is  now  in  ruins,  and  the  fortifi- 
cations quite  insignificant. 

Private  Houses. — There  are  still  a 
few  mansions,  curious  and  interesting 
specimens  of  the  civil  architecture  of 
the  14th  to  the  16th  century.  Visit 
especially  the  '  Casa  del  Cordon'  (16th 
century),  now  the  residence  of  the  Cap- 
tain General.  It  belongs  to  the  Duke 
of  Frias,  who  is  a  descendant  of  the 
Count  of  Haro,  who  erected  it,  and  was 
Constable  of  Castile.  It  dates  from 
the  end  of  15th  century.  Over  the 
portal  is  the  rope  or  cordon  of  the  Teu- 
tonic Order  which  links  the  arms  of 
the  houses  of  Velasco,  Mendoza,  and 
Figuera  with  those  of  royalty.  The 
magnificence  of  this  royal  mansion  must 
have  equalled  that  of  the  chapel  of  the 
Constable  in  the  Cathedral  erected  by 
the  same  nobleman,  and  there  are  still 
some  fine  azulejos,  artesonado  ceilings, 
the  patio  with  two  series  of  galleries, 
arms,  turrets,  etc.,  besides  some  family 
portraits  in  the  administrador  of  the 
duke's  rooms ;  but  much  was  plundered 
and  destroyed  by  the  French.  Casa  de 
Miranda. — In  Calle  de  la  Calera,  E.  of  the 
barrio  de  la  Vega.  Observe  the  noble 
patio  and  pillars.  Cdsa  de  Angulo. — 
Close  to  the  former,  of  16th  century ;  a 
fine  portal.  In  Calle  de  los  Avellanos, 
Casa  del  Conde  de  Villariezo,  of  the 
10th  century,  where  the  powerful  con- 
stable Alvaro  de  Luna  was  imprisoned. 
The  archiepiscopal  palace  is  plain. 

Suburbs.  —  Those  which  travellers 
should  not  fail  to  visit  consist  of  the 
convent  of  Las  Huelgas ;  Cartuja  of 
Miraflores  ;  and  San  Pedro  de  Cardefia, 
where  th8  Cid's  tomb  used  to  be. 

Las  Huelgas. — This  convent  is  situ- 
ated on  the  high  road  to  Valladolid, 
and  was  founded  by  Alfonso  VIIT.  and 


his  queen  Leonora,  daughter  of  Henry 
II.  of  England,  in  1180,  on  the  site  oi 
some  pleasure-grounds  (huelgas,  from 
holgar,  to  rest  =  Sans  Souci).  It  hag 
been  often  augmented  and  repaired  in 
subsequent  periods,  and  is  therefore  not 
homogeneous  in  either  style  or  shape. 
Of  the  former  palace  or  villa,  nothing 
more,  it  is  said,  remains  than  the  small 
cloister  with  fantastical  capitals,  and 
Byzantine  semicircular  arch.  The 
church  was  consecrated  in  1279,  and 
was  the  work  of  King  St.  Ferdinand. 
It  is  of  a  good  pure  Gothic,  severe,  and 
well  characterised.  The  interior  of 
the  church  is  worth  careful  studying, 
though  disfigured  by  tinsel  ornamenta- 
tion and  furniture,  churrigueresque 
altars,  etc.  The  abbesses  of  Huelgas 
used  formerly  to  be  most  powerful, 
and  inferior  to  no  one  in  dignity 
besides  the  queen ;  they  were  mitred, 
'Senoras  de  horca  y  cuchillo'  (i.e. 
with  right  of  life  and  death),  lorded 
over  fifty-one  villages  and  boroughs, 
named  their  alcaldes,  curates,  chap- 
lains, and  possessed  the  style  of  *  Por 
la  gracia  de  Dios '  and  '  nullius 
diocesis.'  It  is  one  of  the  few  re- 
maining convents  which  have  pre- 
served, though  considerably  diminished, 
extensive  landed  property,  amounting 
to  some  1 5, 000  fanegas,  several  villages, 
and  many  thousand  head  of  merino 
sheep.  The  order  is  Cistercian,  and 
to  gain  admission  the  nuns  must,  besides 
the  ordinary  exigencies  of  the  rule, 
bring  a  dowry  and  belong  to  the  nobility. 
The  clausura  (confinement's  most  strict, 
and  the  nuns  can  only  be  visited  by 
ladies.  On  Sundays,  during  high  mass, 
they  may  be  nevertheless  seen  sitting 
in  their  magnificently  carved  stalls, 
singing  and  praying,  clad  in  a  most 
becoming  dress.  As  the  building  was 
also  intended  for  the  burial-house  of 
the  Kings  of  Castile,  there  are  several 
tombs  worthy  of  a  rapid  glance.    In 


BURGOS — CARTUJA. 


85 


this  Escorial  of  the  North  are  buried, 
amongst  others,  the  Emperor  Alfonso 
VII.,  Alfonso  VIII. ,  and  his  queen 
Leonora,  Alfonso  the  Learned,  Hen- 
rique I.,  etc.  In  this  church  the 
marriage  took  place  of  the  Infante 
de  la  Cerda"  (who  is  buried  here)  with 
Blanche,  daughter  of  St.  Louis  of 
France,  at  which  the  Kings  of  Castile, 
Aragon,  Navarre,  the  Moorish  King  of 
Granada,  Prince  Edward  of  England 
(son  of  Henry  III.)»  the  Empress  of 
Constantinople,  the  French  Dauphin, 
and  twenty  or  thirty  other  crowned 
heads  and  princes  were  present.  A- 
mongst  the  nuns  of  rank  that  have 
lived  and  died  here,  were  Berenguela, 
daughter  of  St.  Ferdinand ;  Maria  of 
Aragon,  aunt  to  Charles  V.,  etc.  In 
the  Chapel  de  Santiago  is  preserved  an 
image  of  this  warrior  saint,  in  which 
some  springs  move  the  arms.  Here 
aspirants  to  knighthood  used  to  'velar 
las  armas'  (keep  the  vigil),  and  when 
they  were  knighted,  a  sword  was  fas- 
tened to  the  right  hand  of  the  image, 
which,  by  moving  a  spring,  fell  gently 
on  the  recipient'  s  shoulder,  and  thus 
their  dignity  was  saved  ;  for  otherwise 
it  was  an  offence  to  receive  the  accolade 
(dub  of  knighthood)  from  a  man.  In 
the  nun's  choir  is  preserved  the  banner 
of  Alfonso  VIII.,  which  waved  at  Las 
Navas  de  Tolosa. 

La  Cartuja. — This  convent  is  one  of 
the  lions  of  Burgos,  and  well  deserves 
a  visit.  The  distance  is  half-an-hour's 
drive  from  the  centre  of  the  city ;  a 
caleche  there  and  back,  20r.  Shown 
only  from  8  A.  M.  to  12  A.M.,  and  from 
3  p.m.  to  sunset.  The  convent,  once  a 
very  wealthy  one,  has  suffered  greatly 
since  the  suppression  of  religious  com- 
munities in  Spain,  and  is  now  inhabited 
by  four  or  five  poor,  slovenly,  exclau- 
strado  Carthusian  monks,  who  are  just 
tolerated  and  looked  upon  with  hostile 
suspicion  by  that  rival  of  the  regular 


clergy,  el  cura.  The  railway  is  carried 
over  an  arch  called  Puerta  de  la  Vieja, 
which  was  built  by  Enrique  III.,  but 
repaired  in  1831.  The  site  originally 
formed  some  hunting-grounds  called 
El  Parque  Real,  which  were  purchased 
by 'Enrique  III.,  who  built  the  palace 
of  Miraflores.  At  his  death  it  was 
seen  that,  by  his  will,  he  had  intended 
founding  a  monastery.  Much  opposi- 
tion was  offered  to  the  accomplishment 
of  his  vow,  which  was  finally  carried 
out  by  his  son  Juan  II.,  who  granted 
the  grounds  and  palace  to  the  Carthusian 
order  in  1442.  The  convent  then  built 
was  burnt  down  to  the  ground  (1452), 
and  the  present  one,  designed  by  Juan 
de  Colonia,  whom  Bishop  Cartagena  had 
brought  with  him  for  the  works  of  the 
cathedral,  was  continued  with  great 
activity  and  completed  by  Isabella, 
who,  at  the  death  of  Juan  de  Colonia, 
employed  his  sons  Simon  and  Matienzo. 
The  style  of  the  church  is  exceedingly 
simple,  with  pointed  arched  windows, 
and  a  few  transition  pinnacles  and  other 
details.  The  style  of  both  the  exterior 
and  interior  belongs  to  the  florid  Gothic, 
with  somewhat  of  the  plateresque.  The 
exterior,  with  its  worked-out  flying  but- 
tresses and  pinnacles,  is,  however,  rather 
bald.  The  principal  facade  is  deco- 
rated with  the  arms  of  Castile  and  Leon. 
The  Interior  is  divided  into  three  por- 
tions, according  to  the  rule  observed  by 
the  Carthusian  order  in  all  its  churches. 
One  portion  is  allotted  to  the  monks,  the 
other  to  the  legos  (laity),  and  the  third 
to  the  people,  each  railed  in,  and  the  two 
first  with  choirs  and  stalls.  The  Altar 
was  designed  by  Gil  De  Siloe  and  Diego 
de  la  Cruz  ;  begun  in  1486,  finished  in 
1499.  It  was  ordered  by  Queen  Isabella, 
and  gilt  with  the  gold  brought  from 
America  after  the  second  journey  of 
Columbus.  It  is  quadrangular  in  shape, 
and  crowned  by  a  circle  formed  of  saints, 
and  in  the  centre  are  scenes  from  the 


86 


BURGOS — CARTUJA. 


Passion.  Before  it  is  a  crucifix,  of  little 
merit.  Over  the  sagrario  is  a  Virgin  in 
an  urn,  which,  being  placed  on  a  wheel, 
revolves,  presenting  seven  scenes  of  the 
Scripture,  sculptured  upon  its  seven 
sides.  The  Tombs  are  the  principal 
sight  in  the  convent,  and  may  be  ranked 
among  the  finest  in  Europe.  In  the 
centre  of  the  nave  is  the  tomb  of  Juan 
II.,  and  that  of  Queen  Isabella  of  Por- 
tugal. The  mausoleums  are  octagonal 
in  shape ;  sixteen  lions,  two  at  each 
angle,  support  eight  escutcheons  bearing 
the  royal  arms  from  the  base ;  the  sides, 
upper  angles,  etc.,  are  crowded  with 
numerous  statuettes  under  filigree  cano- 
pies, open-worked  leaves,  and  fruit,  be- 
sides numberless  birds  and  other  animals, 
and  the  whole  charmingly  composed 
and  executed  with  such  delicacy  of  de- 
tail and  abundance  of  subjects,  that  la 
vista  sepierde&mongst  all  that  intricacy. 
The  statues  are  in  a  recumbent  attitude. 
Observe  the  wonderful  workmanship  of 
the  cushions  and  robes,  as  well  as  the 
sitting  figures  of  the  four  Evangelists, 
and  the  group  of  a  lion,  dog,  and  child 
at  the  queen's  feet.  Close  to  these 
tombs,  in  a  recess  in  the  wall,  is  that 
of  their  son,  Don  Alfonso  (ob.  1470,  set. 
16),  who,  at  his  death,  was  succeeded 
by  his  sister  Isabella.  The  Infante  is 
kneeling;  a  vine,  from  around  which 
children  are  hanging,  whilst  the/  are 
plucking  the  grapes,  winds  in  festoons 
round  the  Gothic  arch  which  frames 
that  poetical  composition.  There  are 
also  numberless  specimens  from  the 
vegetable  and  animal  kingdoms,  fruit, 
branches,  leaves  of  all  sorts,  etc.,  all 
admirably  executed.  These  tombs, 
raised  by  Isabella  to  the  memory  of  her 
sires  and  brother,  were  designed  by  Gil 
de  Siloe,  who  began  them  in  1489,  and 
finished  them  in  1493 ;  they  cost  602, 406 
maravedis.  The  stalls  in  the  first  choir, 
close  to  the  altar,  are  of  walnut,  and 
decorated  only  with  leaf  ornaments. 


The  prior's  stall,  with  its  Gothic  canopy, 
is  fine ;  it  dates  from  1488,  and  is  the 
work  of  Martin  Sanchez.  The  second 
choir,  eoro  de  los  legos,  has  stalls  more 
elaborately  worked  and  berneguete-like 
in  the  style  and  execution — (1558) — by 
Simon  Bueras.  The  retablo  over  the 
high  altar  is  a  grand  composition,  with 
subjects  from  our  Saviour's  life  ;  at  the 
bottom,  on  each  side,  are  kneeling 
effigies  of  the  king  and  queen.  There 
is  a  crowd  of  subjects  and  figures  on 
either  side  of  the  tabernacle ;  above  this 
latter  is  the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin ; 
and  above,  a  circle  formed  of  clustered 
angels.  In  the  centre  stands  a  fine 
Crucifix,  surmounted  by  the  allegorical 
subject  of  the  Pelican,  vulning  her 
breast.  The  sculpture  is  excellent 
throughout,  and  does  credit  to  Maestro 
Gil  de  Siloe,  who  designed  it  (1496-99), 
and  executed  most  of  it,  the  rest  being 
the  work  of  Diego  de  la  Cruz.  The 
elaborate  reja  is  by  Santillana.  The 
painted  glass  is  not  very  remarkable, 
though  expressly  made  in  and  brought 
from  Flanders  in  the  15th  century. 
The  burial-ground  is  truly  a  'champ  du 
repos* — nay,  of  oblivion  and  neglect 
41 9  Carthusian  monks  lie  there  in  death 
as  they  lived,  humble  and  forgotten, 
without  a  name  or  a  date,  amongst  the 
weeds,  and  shaded  by  some  tall  and 
sombre  cypresses,  which  raise  up  their 
arrowy  and  motionless  spires  into  the 
blue  heavens.  All  is  calm  and  quiet 
there,  and  silence  is  only  interrupted  by 
the  trickling  tear-like  drops  of  water 
from  a  fountain  in  the  centre.  Weeds 
grow  thick  and  quick  around  graves  in 
Spain ;  in  that  land  of  sun  and  blue 
sky,  shadows  do  not  linger  long  over 
the  heart,  and  the  poor  dead  are  soon 
forgotten.  Visit  the  cells  and  adjoining 
gardens  and  workshops  of  the  monks. 
In  a  chapel  is  a  fine  statue  of  the  foimder 
of  the  order,  St.  Bruno,  by  Manuel  Percy* 
ra,  which  was  formerly  in  the  cathedral 


CACERES. 


87 


San  Pedro  de  Cardefia  is  a  convent  of 
the  Benedictine  order,  founded  by  Queen 
Sancha,  mother  of  the  Gothic  Theodoric. 
In  the  time  of  Alfonso  el  Casto  (9th 
century),  the  Moors,  during  one  of  their 
forays,  razed  the  edifice  to  the  ground, 
and  killed  200  monks  who  inhabited  it 
It  was  a  favourite  convent  with  the  Cid, 
and  at  his  dying  request  (1099),  his 
body  was  conveyed  hither,  and  buried 
before  the  high  altar,  together  with  his 
faithful  Jimena. 

Y  &  San  Pedro  de  CardeSa 
Mando  que  mi  cuerpo  Ueven,  etc. 

Romaneero. 


The  empty  monument  now  stands  in  a 
small  side-chapel ;  on  the  stone  pedestal 
are  placed  the  effigies  of  the  great  hero 
and  Jimena,  side  by  side  in  death  as 
they  had  lived.  On  the  upper  part  is 
an  inscription,  placed  by  order  of  Al- 
fonso the  Learned.  On  the  walls  are 
blazoned  the  escutcheons  of  the  Cid's 
relatives  and  companions  in  arms.  But 
the  convent  has  been  modernised  ;  this 
very  chapel  only  dates  from  1736,  and 
on  the  whole  we  do  not  advise  tourists 
to  undergo  the  dreary  drive  across  wind- 
blown, rocky  downs  for  this  edifice,  of 
which  little  remains  of  former  days. 


OACERE8   (Estremadura). 


Capital  of  province  of  same  name ; 
pop.  14,466. 

Koutes  to  —  1st,  from  Merida,  by 
rail  or  riding :  distance,  72  kil.  One 
train  per  day ;  1st  cl.,  Pes.  10.0 ;  2d 
cl.,  7.50  ;  3d  cl.,  5.05.  But  riding 
over  all  this  country  to  be  preferred 
if  possible.  On  leaving  Merida,  a 
Roman  aqueduct  repaired  and  carry- 
ing water  to  the  town :  through  an 
uninteresting  tract  of  country,  reach 
the  miserable  hamlets  of  Algueeu,  and 
its  stream  ;  skirt  the  Sierra  de  San 
Pedro,  and  Casds  de  Don  Antonio, 
Close  to  latter,  6  miles  distant,  lies  the 
town  of  Montanches,  celebrated  for  its 
hams,  jamones,  the  most  succulent  in 
Spain  ;  along  with  those  of  the  Alpu- 
jarras,  they  were  great  favourites  with 
Charles  V.  during  his '  Retiro'  at  Yuste. 
Much  of  their  delicacy  was  then  as- 
cribed to  the  different  sorts  of  reptiles 
which  it  was  supposed  constituted  the 
ordinary  food  of  the  Montanches  pigs. 
Acorns  are  certainly  not  abundant  in 
this  part  of  the  country.  Cross  the 
rivers  Ayuela  and  Mo  Salar. 


2d,  From  Badajoz  by  rail  vid  Merida, 
or  by  riding,  thus — 

Badajoz  to  Caceres,  14  leagues. 
(If  riding,  take  a  local  guide,  as  then 
you  cross  the  Puerto  de  Sancho 
Caballo,  whilst  by  galeras  that  of 
Clovin  is  traversed.) 

Badajoz  to  Roca 

Puebla  de  Ovando 

Glceres  ... 

In  a  long  day's  ride,  leagues  14 

A  league  after  leaving  Badajoz  the 
Ebora  is  crossed  by  a  fine  bridge,  then 
the  Ribera  de  Periquoitos  is  forded. 
The  other  rivers  which  the  traveller 
meets  are,  the  Ayuella,  2}  leagues  be- 
fore arriving  at  Caceres,  and  the  Salar, 
half-a-league.  The  Ribera  del  Saltillo 
has  to  be  forded  near  Puebla  de  Ovando, 
a  village  of  371  inhabitants,  also  called 
El  Zangano,  which  name  would  reflect 
no  flattering  credit  on  the  inhabitants 
3d,  By  Trujillo,  riding  from  Naval 
moral. 

Trujillo  to  Venta  de  Mas  ilia,  leagues       3 
Caceres  ....        5 

8 

Across  hills  planted  with  oaks  ;  the 
rivers  Magusca  and  Tameja  are  crossed 


88 


CACERES. 


Reached  by  galeras  or  riding.  In  both 
tours  take  a  local  guide,  and  attend  to 
the  provender. 

4th,  From  Madrid.  By  the  recently 
opened  Tagus  Railroad  vid  Torrijos, 
Talavera  de  la  Reina,  Naval  moral  and 
Arroyo  (change) ;  distance,  347  kil. ;  1 
train  per  day ;  10  hrs.;  fares,  1st  cl., 
pes.  42.40;  2d  cl.,  30.65;  Legands, 
a  large  lunatic  asylum  ;  Torrijos,  2000 
inhab.  in  a  damp  and  fever-stricken  dis- 
trict. A  Palace  of  Altamira  contains 
some  fine  mudejar  artevonado  ceilings. 
Talavera  de  la  Reina,  Hotels:  Amistad, 
Potra  Ferrer,  both  fair.  This,  the 
Roman  Tala-Briga,  is  now  a  decayed 
city  deserving  of  a  better  fate,  for  it  is 
charmingly  situated  on  the  Tagus,  which 
waters  its  verdurous  vega  and  beautiful 
gardens  and  orchards.  There  are  re- 
mains of  the  Roman  circumvallation  ; 
of  the  Moorish  fortifications,  The  Torres 
Albarrouas,  built  10th  cent.,  and  of  a 
Pagan  temple,  etc.  An  indifferent 
Gothic  Ch.  of  Sta.  Ma.  la  Mayor ;  a 
much  ruined  bridge  of  15th  cent. ,  built 
by  Card.  Mendoza ;  a  charming  Alameda, 
and  a  Dominican  Convent  with  some 
fine  tombs.  On  the  hill  to  the  left  of 
the  town,  and  on  the  Madrid  road,  was 
fought,  27th  and  28th  July  1809,  the  cele- 
brated battle  of  Talavera,  between  the 
French  under  Marshals  Victor,  Jourdan, 
and  King  Joseph,  and  the  Anglo-Span- 
ish army,  under  the  great  duke's  per- 
sonal command.  The  French  finally 
abandoned  the  field,  losing  20  cannon, 
and  10,000  killed  and  wounded. 
Orqpesa,  pop.  1880,  a  small  and  most 
decayed  little  town  crowning  an  ilex 
and  olive-clad  hill.  A  dilapidated 
palace  and  castle,  the  property  of  the 
Duke  de  Frias.  Navalmoral,  pop.  3000. 
Here,  if  desired,  the  railway  may  be 
conveniently  left,  and  Caceres  reached 
by  riding  vid  Trujillo.  In  this  case  Al- 
maraz  is  passed  in  1 J  hrs.  Here  the 
Tagus  is  crossed.    This  little  town  gave 


a  title  to  Lord  Hill,  who,  May  18, 1812, 
'  conducted  here'with  consummate  abi- 
lity one  of  the  most  brilliant  actions  of 
the  Peninsular  War,'  which  consisted  in 
forcing  the  defile  of  La  Cueva,  cutting 
off  Soult  from  Marmont,  thus  preparing 
the  victory  of  Salamanca. 

At  Jaraicejo  cross  the  river  Almoute 
and  reach  Trujillo.  Pop.  6800.  Tints 
Parador.  This,  the  Turris  Julia,  be- 
cause said  to  have  been  founded  by 
Julius  Csesar,  is  built  upon  a  granite 
hill,  and  is  divided  into  the  castle 
quarter,  the  old  city,  and  the  town 
proper.  The  chief  curiosities  are : — 
the  Arch  of  Santiago,  the  Ch.  of  Sa.  Ma. 
La  Mayor,  the  picturesque  Plaza,  Ch. 
of  San  Martin,  Ch.  and  tombs  of  Sa.  Ma. 
del  Concepcion,  the  houses  of  Duke  de 
San  Carlos,  and  C-del  Puerto.  In  La 
Concepcion  note  especially  the  tomb  o* 
Pizarro.   See  also  his  house  in  the  Plaza 

Caceres. — Inns — most  indifferent — 
Posada  de  Antonio  ;  Fonda  del  Comer- 
cio.  The  climate  is  excellent ;  the  air 
pure  and  soft.  The  winter  is  scarcely 
felt,  and  lasts  but  a  few  weeks;  the 
mortality  is  1.31.  The  country  around 
is  the  most  fertile  in  the  province. 
The  older  portion  of  Caceres  occupies 
the  summit  of  the  height  on  which  the 
town  is  placed,  and  is  flanked  by  old 
quaint  massive  walls  with  cubos  and  five 
gates,  of  which  latter  that  of  La  Estella 
is  the  most  interesting.  The  newer 
portion  is  built  around  the  former,  but 
slopes  down  to  the  plain,  which  is  wa- 
tered by  the '  caudaloso '  Marco.  Though 
abounding  with  wine,  corn,  fruit,  and 
delicious  hams  and  bacon,  ind  rich 
succulent  sausages  of  all  kinds  (which 
we  recommend  to  the  gastronomic 
tourist),  Caceres,  from  its  out-of-the 
way  situation  and  want  of  roads,  lies  in 
an  ignored  nook  of  Estremadura,  and 
is  dull,  lifeless,  dirty,  and  sombre.  The 
antiquary  and  artist  will  nevertheless 
not  lack  subjects  worthy  of  attention. 


OAOERES — ALCANTARA  BRIDGE. 


89 


pen,  and  pencil ;  not  so  much  from  any 
particular  edifice,  as  for  'Prout'-bit 
nooks  and  corners,  and  private  houses, 
all  well  preserved  and  strongly  charac- 
terised, belonging  to  the  feudal  times, 
and  bearing  proud  armorials.  Do  not 
fail  to  visit  the  Veletas,  the  Moorish 
Alcazar  ;  the  houses  of  the  Duque  de 
Abrantes,  Conde  de  la  Torre,  de  los  Gol- 
fines,  de  los  Carbajales,  eta  The  plaza  is 
decorated  with  a  Roman  Ceres  and  a  Di- 
ana (the  head  is  modern) .  There  are,  be- 
sides, the  Bishop's  Palace ;  the  Gothic 
church  of  Santa  Maria,  rebuilt  in  1566, 
where  notice  the  retablo  of  that  period 
and  the  sepulchres  of  the  Figueroas,  Pare- 
des,  etc. ;  San  Mateo,  in  the  upper  or  older 
town,  close  to  house  de  los  Veletas,  and 
the  work  of  Pedro  de  Ezquerra  (its 
tower  and  tombs) ;  and  in  Santiago  a 
fine  reja  (1563).  The  bull-ring,  all  of 
granite,  and  situated  N.W.  of  the  town, 
is  a  magnificent  building  sui  generis. 
There  are  antiquities  constantly  dug 
up  and  reburied  in  the  '  Dehesa  de  los 
Arrogatos'  3  leagues  off.  Caceres  was 
founded,  74  B.C.,  by  Q.  C.  Metellus, 
and  named  by  him  Castra  Csesaris, 
whence  its  present  name  is  derived. 

Excursion  to  Alcantara. — A  6  hrs.' 
ride,  amid  wild  oaks  and  dehesas,  by 
Brozas. 

Alcantara. — Pop.  4000.  On  a  rocky 
height  over  the  Tagus,  and  girdled  by 
walls  6  met.  high  and  2  met  wide.  Al- 
Kantarah  (the  bridge  in  Arab.)  was  the 
Norba  Ccesarea  of  the  Romans,  and 
belonged  subsequently  to  the  military 
order  of  Alcantara,  to  whom  it  was 
granted  by  Alfonso  IX.  of  Castile,  in 
1212.  Visit  the  Convent  of  San  Benito, 
built  in  1506,  and  enlarged  and  em- 
bellished by  Philip  II.  Observe,  over 
and  above  the  collateral  altar,  some 
fine  pictures  by  Morales,  who  must  be 
studied  in  Estremadura,  his  native  land. 
Also  notice  the  sepulchres  of  the  knights, 
the  cloisters,  etc.   The  great  lion  here  is 


the  Bridge,  a  wonderful  work  built  foi 
Trajan,  a.d.  105,  by  the  architect  Cairo 
Julius  Lacer,  who  was  buried  near  it 
It  was  repaired  by  that  other  great  em- 
peror, Charles  V.,  in  1543.  It  consists 
of  six  arches,  varying  in  size,  and  is 
entirely  built  with  blocks  of  granite, 
without  cement ;  the  widest  arches  in 
the  centre  have  a  span  of  50  ft. ;  the 
length  is  620  ft;  the  height  190  ft. 
There  is  a  tower  in  the  middle  some  13 
met.  high.  The  second  arch  on  the 
right  bank  was  blown  up  in  1809  by 
CoL  Mayne,  was  repaired  in  1812  by 
Col.  Sturgeon,  and  destroyed  a  second 
time  in  1836  ;  it  has  never  been  repaired 
since,  and  the  river  is  crossed  in  a  ferry- 
boat, and  this  near  and  under  one  of 
the  grandest  engineering  works  of  the 
Romans  in  Spain,  which  it  is  a  na- 
tional duty  to  preserve  as  a  monument, 
and  a  government's  obligation  to  make 
available.  A  decent  Casa  de  huespedes, 
kept  by  Don  Cisto  Pena,  near  the  Plaza 
de  Toros,  and  a  tolerable  posada,  Nueva 
de  la  Viuda. 

.Excursion  to  Plasencia,  by  rail ;  or 
by  road  including  Alcantara, 


Itinerary. 

Caceres  to  Malpartida 
Arroyo  del  Pucrco    . 
Brozas     . 
Alcantara  (sleep) 
Alcantara  to  Garrovillas 
Carnaveral 
Coria  (sleep)    . 
Plasencia 


Leagues 

2 
I 

4i 

3 

5 

9 

4* 
9 

3i 


Riding ;  take  a  local  guide  and  pro 
vender.    Interesting  only  to  artists  and 
ecclesiologists. 

Arroyo  del  Puerco. — Posada  de  la 
Cacerana.  In  the  parish  church  are, 
or  were  till  but  very  recently,  sixteen 
very  fine  authentic  and  undefined  pic- 
tures by  Morales.  The  subjects  are, 
Christ   in    the   Garden,   Bearing   the 


90 


CACERES — CONVENT  OF  YUSTE. 


Cross,  the  Annunciation,  Nativity, 
Christ  in  Limbo,  Si  John,  Saviour 
Bound,  Descent,  Burial,  Christ  and 
Joseph  of  Arimathea,  Adoration  of 
Kings,  Circumcision,  Ascension,  Pen- 
tecost, Saviour  with  the  Reed,  St. 
Jerome. 

Alcdntara, —  Vide  p.  89. 

Coria. — Posada  de  Juan  Lopez  :  in- 
different Pop.  2500.  Is  the  Roman 
Caurium,  of  which  the  walls  still  sub- 
sist, and  are  interesting ;  they  are  30  ft 
high  and  19  ft  thick  on  an  average. 
Visit  the  Paredon,  the  Aqueduct,  Torre 
de  San  Francisco,  the  Gothic  Cathedral 
of  granite,  with  a  fine  plateresque  en- 
trance and  quaintly  carved  stalls,  dat- 
ing 1489,  p:  d  tombs  of  Bishop  Galarza, 
Prescamo,  Dofia  Catalina,  Diaz,  etc., 
most  of  them  of  the  beginning  of  the 
16th  century  and  end  of  the  15  th. 

Plasencia. — Inns  :  Nueva  ;  Fonda 
de  las  tres  Puertas.  7000  inhabitants, 
bishop's  see  as  well  as  Coria,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Jerte  and  in  the  prov. 
of  Caceres.  The  town  is  hooped  in 
by  a  massive  wall,  built  in  1197  by 
Alfonsi  VIII.  of  Castile,  and  strength- 
ened oy  sixty-eight  cubo  towers  and 
with  six  gates,  all  most  picturesque, 
and  excellent  specimens  of  mediaeval 
Castilian  military  engineering.  Besides, 
on  the  N.E.  side,  and  overlooking  the 
rest,  rose  a  strongly-built  fortress,  of 
which  the  ruins  subsist.  The  flint- 
made  streets  are  straight,  and  the 
houses  of  the  earlier  periods  are  worth 
a  visit,  especially  that  of  Marques  de 
Miravel.  Observe  the  grand  staircase, 
the  pillars  and  statues ;  that  of  the 
Marques  de  Santa  Cruz  de  Paniagua 
(literally,  bread  and  water),  with  a  fine 
balcony.  The  principal  sight  is  the 
Cathedral.  It  was  built  in  1498,  and 
belongs  to  the  florid  Gothic ;  but  has 
been  modernised  and  altered  in  several 
portions,  while  other  parts  have  re- 
mained unfinished.   Observe  the  fine  S. 


entrance,  the  plateresque  door,  '  Puerta 
del  Enlosado ; '  the  interior  is  some- 
what disfigured  by  the  over-sized  pil- 
lars which  support  the  roof  of  the 
central  aisle  ;  notice  more  especially  the 
colossal  and  fine  reja  del  coro,  6  ft 
high  (1664),  by  Celma ;  the  finely-carved 
Tedesque  stalls  by  Aleman  ;  the  retablo 
of  the  high  altar,  a  masterpiece  of 
Gregorio  Hernandez  (1626),  four  large 
pictures  by  Ricci ;  the  plateresque  se- 
pulchres of  Bishop  Ponce  de  Leon  and 
others. 

Besides  the  cathedral  may  be  visited 
the  Church  of  San  Nicolas,  with  a  fine 
tomb  of  Bishop  Pedro  de  Carvajal ;  San 
Ildefonso  for  the  tomb  of  Cristobal  de 
Villalba ;  the  Church  of  San  Vicente 
for  another  of  Martin  Nieto  (1597),  etc. 
Prout-bits  that  will  tempt  the  sketcher 
are  not  wanting  about  the  cathedral, 
bishop's  palace,  etc.  Antiquaries  will 
study  and  trace  from  what  remains  the 
beautiful  Roman  Via  Lata,  going  from 
Merida  to  Salamanca,  which  is  more 
strongly  marked  on  nearing  Merida 
and  the  Charca,  where  still  subsist  the 
military  columns,  7  ft.  high,  generally 
well  preserved. 

Excursion  to  Convent  of  Yuste. — Travellers 
desirous  of  visiting  this  out-of-the-way  convent, 
the  site  of  the  refuge  and  death  of  Charles  V., 
will  do  well  to  obtain  beforehand  information 
respecting  the  administrador  of  El  Monasterio 
de  San  Geronimo  de  Yuste,  at  Cuacos,  as 
changes  are  now  taking  place  in  the  lesseeship 
of  the  convent,  which  has  been  recently  pur- 
chased by  the  Marques  de  Miravel,  and  is 
undergoing  repairs.  Yuste  lies  some  8  leagues 
from  Plasencia,  across  the  Xerte,  the  Calzones 
hill,  the  charming  valley  of  Vera,  to  pictur- 
esque Pasaron.  Soon  after  the  latter  has  been 
left,  the  Hieronymite  Convent  appears  a  little 
above  the  Magdalena  farm,  and  near  the  small 
stream  of  the  Yuste.  Visit  the  Nogal  Grande, 
a  large  walnut-tree,  under  which  Charles  used 
to  sit ;  his  bedroom,  where  once  hung  Titian's 
Gloria,  now  at  the  Madrid  Gallery,  No.  462. 
In  the  chapel  observe  the  finely-carved  silleria 
by  Mateo  Aleman;  visit  likewise  the  Plaza 
del  Palacio,  the  sun-dial  erected  by  Juanelo 
Turriana,    the   pleasure  -  grounds — sadly  nfr 


IN        T        I        C 


V 


MADRID  TO  CORDOVA,  SEVILLA&  CADIZ  AND  MALAGA  &  GRANADA. 


ATLANTIC      Cadiz 
O  C  E  AN 


H    MEDITERRANEAN 


•  £no  Hah,  Jt3e* 

f    f »*>    *> te. *e 

7  B as<Av  Lc*if»,  Edut* 


Published  b;    V  #•  J  ;U>ick.  Loadtm 
* 


CADIZ. 


91 


fleeted— and  its  Cenador  de  Belem.  The 
convent  was  sacked  and  almost  destroyed  by 
Soult's  soldiers;  and  the  brutal  peasants  of 
Cuacos,  the  constant  enemies  of  the  convent 
even  during  Charles's  life,  have  done  the  rest. 
In  the  vicinity  of  Yuste  game  abounds,  such 
as  deer,  roebuck,  wild  boars,  cabras  montesas 
(chamois),  and  wolves.  There  is  also  some  ex- 
cellent fishing  about  the  Xerte,  Yuste,  etc. 

From  or  to  Salamanca,  42  leagues  by 
Ciudad  Rodrigo.     (See  Salamanca.) 

Books  of  Reference.  — '  Historia  de 
Caceres  con.  sua  Privilegios,'  by  Ulloa 
y  Golfin,  MS.  in  Acad.  Hist.  (D.  49), 
the  best  work  written  on  this  city. 

Alcdntara. — *  Descripcion  de  la  sun- 
tuosay  celebre  Puentede  Alcantara ; '  4to, 
MS.,  Bibl.  Nacionale  (vol.  159,  fol.  96). 

Yuste. — 1.   'Fundacion  del  Monas- 


terio  de  Yuste, '  by  Hernando  del  Cor 
ral,  MS.  of  the  16th  century,  Bibl.  of 
Escorial  (L.  j.  13,  fol.  25),  and  Signon- 
za's  '  Hist,  of  the  Order  of  St.  Jerome,' 
2  vols.,  i.,  p.  29. 

2.  And  for  details  on  the  life  of 
Charles  V.  at  Yuste,  see  '  History  of  the 
Order  of  St.  Jerome,'  by  Siguenza,  voL 
i.,  p.  36;  'Cloister  Life  of  the  Em- 
peror  Charles  V.,'  by  Stirling,  1852, 
etc. ;  Seiior  Tomas  Gonzalez's  important 
work,  '  Retiro,'  etc.,  extracted  from  do 
cuments  at  Simancas,  and  M.  Mignet's 
'Charles  Quint.'  etc.,  the  last  edition 
(1862),  in  which  we  have  remarked 
very  interesting  new  documents,  not 
comprised  in  the  former  editions  ;  San- 
doval's '  Hist. '  etc. 


CADIZ. 


Capital  of  province  of  the  same  name ; 
bishop's  see  ;  trading  and  military  sea- 
port.    Pop.  about  65,000. 

Routes  and  Conveyances.  —  1st, 
From  Madrid,  by  rail  throughout,  cros- 
sing Cordova,  Seville,  and  Jerez ;  dis- 
tance, 726  kil. ;  time,  18-23  hrs.  Fares, 
1st  cl.,  Pes.  84.15;  2d  cl.,  64.10. 
From  Madrid  to  Alcazar,  the  Alicante 
Railway  is  followed.  Express  leaves 
Madrid  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Fri.  at  8.05 
p.m.,  and  arrives  in  Cadiz  at  2.54 
next  day.  Returns  Tues. ,  Thurs. ,  and 
Sat.  at  2.45  p.m.  (For  description  of 
route  see  Alicante,  Cordova,  etc. ) 

2d,  From  Seville.  A.  By  rail,  4| 
hours  ;  distance,  153  kil.  For  details 
see  Seville  and  Jerez. 

B.  By  the  river;  offices,  Mfllan, 
Santo  Cristo,  2.  Time,  6J  to  7  hours  ; 
see  Seville  (seldom  adopted). 

3d,  From  Cordova,  8  hours ;  two 
trains ;  distance,  285  kil.  Fares,  1st 
cl.,  Pes.  30.65  ;  2d  cl.,  22.70 ;  3d  cl., 
13.60.     For  details  see  Cordova. 


4th,  From  Malaga,  A.  By  sea.  See 
Malaga  ;  also  advertisements  in  papers 
and  bills.  A  pleasant  route,  calling 
either  at  Gibraltar  or  Algcciras.  The 
best  lines  are  the  '  Hall '  (weekly) ;  the 
Compania  Trasatlantica  (Lopez)  once 
a  month;  the  Segovia- Cuadra  (bi- 
weekly) ;  and  the  Compagnie  Havraise 
Peninsular  (every  10  days).  The  time, 
direct,  is  about  15  hours.  B.  By  land, 
via1  Bobadilla,  La  Eoda,  Osufia,  Utrera, 
etc.  ;  or  drive  from  Osufla  to  Moron, 
through  an  interesting  country,  and 
from  thence  take  train  to  Seville.  Also 
by  rail  through  Montilla  (finely  situ- 
ated ;  great  sherry  district ;  birthplace 
of  El  Gran  Capitan,  Gonsalvo  de  Cor- 
doba), and  from  thence  vi&  Ecya  and 
Marchena  to  Seville. 

5th,  From  Lisbon.  By  John  Hall 
and  Company's  boats,  weekly,  or  by 
the  fine  steamers  of  the  Ligne  Penin- 
sulaire.  Also  by  numerous  coasting 
steamers. 

6th,  From  Havre,  by  the  boats  of  the 


92 


CADIZ — ROUTES. 


Compagnie  Havraise  Pfoinsulaire  twice 
a  month. 

7th,  From  Alicante,  Cartagena,  Barce- 
lona, Marseilles,  etc. ;  from  the  chief 
British  ports — London,  Liverpool,  Bris- 
tol, Glasgow,  Dublin,  etc. ;  from  Genoa 
and  Leghorn ;  from  the  ports  of  Ger- 
many and  Denmark — with  all  these 
there  is  constant  steam  communication. 
Address  in  Cadiz  to  Alcon  and  Co.,  Calle 
de  la  Aduana,  16  ;  Joaquin  del  Cuvillo, 
Calle  San  Pedro,  2;  Sons  of  Thos. 
Haynes,  Calle  Nueva,  2;  D.  Mac- 
pherson,  San  Gin6s,  4,  or  Jos6  Esteban 
Gomez,  Calle  Marguia,  35. 

Cadiz,  Barcelona,  and  Bilbao  are  the 
most  important  ports  in  Spain,  and  the 
points  of  departure  and  centres  of  com- 
munication for  vessels  going  to  and  fro 
between  all  parts  of  the  world.  The 
principal  lines  leaving  or  touching  here 
are  the  following  :  —  The  Hamburg 
Pacific  line  and  the  Cosmos  line  for 
Rio  Janeiro,  Monte  Video,  and  other 
ports  of  Central  and  South  America ; 
The  National  Steamship  Company  for 
New  York  and  Boston  —  agent,  D. 
Macpherson  ;  the  Spanish  mail  service 
(twice  a  month)  to  the  Canary  Isles 
(Santa  Cruz,  Teneriffe),  also  to  West 
Africa,  the  Philippine  Islands,  etc.  ; 
The  Compania  Transatlantica  (Lopez 
line)  for  Puerto  Rico,  Habana,  Colon, 
and  the  Pacific  ports ;  as  also  for 
Manila,  Singapore  and  the  East ;  office 
of  the  Company,  Isabel  la  Catdlica, 
3  ;  the  coasting  steamers  of  Ibarra 
and  Co.  to  Malaga,  Barcelona,  and 
Marseilles,  also  to  Lisbon,  Santander, 
and  Bilbao. 

'Tourists  at  Cadiz,  however,  are  most 
interested  in  the  routes  to  or  from 
Gibraltar,  by  sea  and  land.  A.  By 
sea.  The  first-class  occasional  steamers 
are  not  to  be  depended  upon.     The 


Compania  Transatlantica  run  boats 
three  times  a  week  between  Cadiz, 
Tangier,  and  Gibraltar,  leaving  Cadiz 
on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday, 
and  returning  from  Gibraltar  and 
Tangier  on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and 
Saturday  ;  while  the  boats  of  Hall's 
line  pass  from  Gibraltar  weekly  (agents, 
Calle  San  Pedro,  2).  The  time  occupied 
by  the  voyage  is  8-9  hours,  and  as  the 
start  from  Cadiz  is  made  about  7  A.M. 
it  is  a  great  convenience,  if  the  per- 
mission can  be  obtained,  to  go  on 
board  overnight.  The  accommodation 
is  good,  in  the  case  of  the  larger 
steamers,  and  one  avoids  thereby  the 
early  rising  at  the  hotel,  and  the 
awkward  chartering  of  a  small  boat 
from  the  Muelle,  with  the  accompany- 
ing struggle  over  the  luggage.  The 
trip  is  a  very  pleasant  one  when  the 
weather  is  fine,  the  Spanish  coast  being 
rarely  lost  sight  of.  The  first  thing  to 
attract  attention  is  the  peculiar  situa- 
tion of  Cadiz,  of  which  an  excellent 
idea  may  be  obtained  while  slowly,  as 
if  reluctantly,  the  city  is  being  left  be- 
hind. Then  comes  the  Isla  of  San  Fer- 
nando, and  a  long  stretch  of  low-lying, 
sandy  coast,  varied,  however,  by  fine 
views  of  the  uprising  inland  country 
about  Chiclana,  etc.  By  the  time 
Cape  Trafalgar  is  sighted  {see  2?.,  p. 
94),  the  Straits  may  be  said  to  have 
been  reached,  and  henceforward  there 
is  no  lack  of  interest.  Tangier  is  seen 
lying  far  away  to  the  right ;  while  on 
the  left  appears  Tarifa,  with  its  white- 
washed houses,  its  imposing  but  tooth- 
less fortifications,  and  its  lighthouse 
apparently  set  in  the  midst  of  the  sea. 
The  African  coast-line  is  now  extremely 
picturesque,  stretching  from  Cape  Spar- 
tel  to  the  Apes'  Hill  over  Ceuta,  and. 
with  the  gray  mass  of  the  Gibraltar 
rock  rising  up  full  in  view.  For 
further  description  of  the  route,  see  p. 
150. 


CADIZ — ROUTES. 


93 


B.  By  land.  Two  routes;  one  crosses 
Algeciras  and  Tarifa,  the  other  leaves  these  on 
the  left,  and  cuts  across  Los  Barrios,  Casa  Vieja, 
Medina  Sidonia.  The  first  continues  along  the 
sea-coast,  and  is  practicable  only  during  some 
seasons.  It  traverses  Tarifa  and  Trafalgar, 
and  is  to  be  preferred  when  ladies  are  in  the 
case.  The  second  is  shorter,  wilder,  and  crosses 
a  woody  portion  of  country. 

First  Itinerary.  Miles. 

Gibraltar  to  Algeciras        .  9 

Tarifa         ....  " 

VentadeTaibilla  16 

VentadeVejer  ...         14 

Chiclana l6 

Cadiz *3 

80 


The  ride  to  Tarifa  is  9  to  10  hrs.     Leave  San 
Roque  to  the  right,  follow  the  sands  and  bay. 
Algeciras.— Pop.  18,216  inhab.,  prov.  of  Cadiz. 
This  Portus  Albus  of  the  Romans,  and  the  Erin, 
the  Green  Island  (Jeziratu-1-Khadra),  of  the 
Moor,  a  name  which  has  been  preserved  to  the 
Isla  Verde,  also  called  de  las  Palomas,  was 
strongly  fortified  by  the  Moors,  and  suffered 
se/eral  sieges,  until  it  was  taken  in  1344  by  Al- 
fonso XI.    The  capture  was  considered  of  great 
importance,  and  the  see  of  Cadiz  was  removed 
here  by  a  bull  of  Clement  VI.,  the  bishops  being 
henceforth,  and  still,  *  of  Cadiz  and  Algeciras,' 
and  the  kings  of  Spain  were  styled  '  Reyes  del 
Algecira.'    It  was  retaken  1379  by  Mahomet 
II.  of  Granada,  and  destroyed,  not  to  be  rebuilt 
before  1760,  under  Charles  III.,  as  a  watch- 
tower  to  spy  the  doings  dlpirfida  A  Ibion.  ^  The 
town  is  straggling,  the  streets  dirty  and  silent ; 
the  houses  with  low  balconies  and  rejas  closely 
latticed,  jalousies  indeed,  worthy  of  the  former 
Moor  and  irritable  hidalgos.    The  port  might 
be  made  excellent ;  but  alas  I  altnough  facing 
Gibraltar,  where  all  is  trade,  activity,  order,  and 
improvement,   there  are  here    neither  moles, 
quays,  nor  works  of  defence,  for  the  pasteboard 
fort  and  few  guns  which  we  see  are  only  a  use- 
less show.      There  is  a  Plaza,  with  a  paltry 
statue  of  Castanos,  field-marshal  and  Duke  of 
Baylen,  a  small  theatre,  some  barracks,  and  an 
indifferent  church.     Algeciras  might  become, 
from  its  situation,  one  of  the  most  flourishing 
ports  in  Spain  ;  there  is  some  trade  with  Africa 
and  the  ports  on  the  coast,  the  exports  and  im- 
ports averaging  some  ^60,000  annually.    The 
oranges  of  Algeciras  are  exquisite,  and  next  to 
them  the  greatest  attraction  here  is  the  fair  sex, 
who  are  celebrated  for  their  beauty.    A  new 
railway  line  from  Bobadilla,  vid  Ronda,  is  in 
course  of  construction. 
There  are  two  poor  inns  here,  the  '  Victoria' 


and  the  'Marina.'     The  road  between  this 
and  Tarifa  is  wild  and  beautiful,  and  from  the 
hills  the  view  sweeps  over  the  bay,  to  the 
proud  and  majestic  Pefton  de  Gibraltar,  the 
cork-tree    forest    (alcornoques),    the    boiling 
Guadalmacil  rushing  through  and  lighting  it 
up  with  flashes  of  sunlit  water  on  the  left,  and 
before  us,  and  to  the  right,  the  ocean,  unfurl- 
ing its  wide  tranquil  sheet  of  water  between 
Africa  and  Europe,  like  an  illuminated,  gilt- 
edged  page,  bearing  some  of  the  greatest  deeds 
of  man :  for  these  shores  have  witnessed  the 
battles  of  Munda  and  Trafalgar,  also  the  land- 
ing of  the  Berber,  the  merchants  of  Tyre  and 
Sidon,  the  departure  of  Columbus,  foreshadow- 
ing the  discovery  of  a  new  world.    {Algeciras 
to  Gibraltar,  seep.  i$9.) 

Tarifa.— Pop.  11,863  inhab.,  W.  of  the  Bay 
of  Gibraltar,  is  the  most  Moorish-looking  town 
in  all  Spain.     The  women  are  celebrated  for 
their  grace  and  beauty.    They  wear  the  man- 
tilla, as  the  Egyptians  the  tob  and  KAdbar&A, 
—and,  at  Lima,  the  tapadas,  that  is  leaving 
only  one  eye  discovered,  of  which  each  flash  is 
a  punalada  from  which  few  are  said  to  recover. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  Phoenicians, 
and  then  called  Cartama  and  Tartesia;  it  be- 
came a  Greek  colony,  and  was  raised  to  a  Cola- 
nia  Libertina  by  the  Romans,  being  colonised 
by  4000  sons  of  Roman  soldiers  and  Spanish 
women,  not  their  wives,  and  called  Julia  Tra- 
ducta.      It  obtained  its   present   name  from 
Tarif-Ben-Malik,  the  first  Berber  sheikh  who 
landed  in  Spain.    After  a  long  siege  it  was  cap- 
tured, 1292,  by  Sancho  IV.     Alfonso  Perez  de 
Guzman,  an  ancestor  of  the  Empress  Eugenie, 
was  entrusted  with  its  defence.    It  was  besieged 
by  the  Moors,  aided  by  the  treacherous  Infante 
Don  Juan,  who,  to  cause  Don  Alfonso  to  sur- 
render, brought  the  hitter's  son  to  the  foot  of  the 
walls,  and  threatened  to  kill  him  if  his  father 
did  not  give  up  the  city ;  seeing  which  Don 
Alfonso,  according  to  the  old  ballad — 


'  Luego  tomando  el  cuchillo, 
Por  cima  el  muro  lo  ha  echado, 
Junto  cayd  del  real 
De  que  Tarifa  es  cercado, 
Dijo :  '  Matadlo  con  esta, 
Sulo  habeis  determinado, 
Que  mas  quiero  honra  sin  hijo, 
Que  hijo  con  mi  honor  manchado.' 

The  son  was  put  to  death,  but  the  Moors  retired, 
and  Tarifa  was  saved.  But  the  story,  as  ob- 
tianed  from  the  '  Ilustraciones  de  la  Casa  de 
Niebla'  of  Barrantes  Maldonado(Bibliot.  Acad. 
Hist,  of  Madrid),  and  other  authentic  sources, 
reconciles  us  with  the  father's  heroism.  The 
celebrated    batde    of    El   Salcdo,    between 


94 


CADIZ — ROUTES. 


the  kings  of  Castile  and  Portugal  against 
the  Moors,  took  place  under  its  walls.  Its 
old  walls  and  gates,  and  twenty-six  towers, 
its  narrow  winding  streets,  low  houses,  balconies 
full  of  flower-vases,  are  all  Oriental,  novel,  and 
picturesque.  The  Guzman  Castle  will  tempt 
the  sketcher. 

The  panorama  from  the  Tower  of  PeHa  del 
Ciervo  is  among  the  grandest  in  Spain.  Africa 
lies  opposite,  Tangier  a  little  to  the  right,  Tarifa 
comes  out  into  the  open  sea  on  the  left,  at  a 
distance,  and  the  headland  yonder  to  the  right 
is  Cape  Trafalgar.  After  crossing  Venta  de 
Taivilla,  a  mile  inland  is  the  Lagutia  de 
Janda. 

Here  the  Berbers  first  met  the  disorganised 
armies  of  Roderick,  the  last  of  the  Goths,  July 
19,  711  ;  the  action  not  being  decided  till  the 
26th,  on  the  Guadalete,  near  Jerez.  After 
crossing  Vejer,  the  Moorish  Bekkert  which  re- 
tains all  its  African  character  and  comforts,  the 
scenery  becomes  monotonous  and  dreary.  We 
come  in  sight  of  the  Cabo  de  Trafalgar  ( Taraf- 
al-gkar,  the  promontory  of  the  cave),  and  Pro- 
montorium  yunonis  of  the  Romans.  In  these 
waters  took  place,  Oct.  21,  1805,  the  celebrated 
battle  of  Trafalgar.  Nelson,  at  the  head  "of 
twenty-seven  small  ships  of  the  line  and  four 
frigates,  encountered  the  French  fleet  under 
Villeneuve  and  the  Spanish  under  Gravina,  both 
of  thirty-three  sail  of  the  line,  and  seven  frigates. 
The  secret  of  the  victory  lay  in  Nelson's  novel 
manoeuvring,  an  inspiration  of  genius.  He 
divided  his  fleet  into  two  compact  columns,  so 
as  to  bear  at  once  on  the  same  point  of  resistance. 
He  thus  succeeded  in  breaking  the  line  of  battle 
of  Villeneuve,  who,  as  well  as  Gravina,  had  scat- 
tered his  ships,  isolating  them  too  much  from 
each  other.  The  fighting  on  all  sides  was  most 
heroic.  Nelson  was  mortally  wounded,  and 
died  2}  hours  after  receiving  his  wound,  but 
iived  long  enough  to  see  his  triumph.  On  his 
deathbed,  Gravina  (who  died  shortly  after  from 
his  wounds)  told  Dr.  Fellowes  that  he  was  going 
to  join  Nelson,  the  '  greatest  man  the  world  has 
ever  produced.' 

Chiclana,  and  on  to  Cadiz.  See  No.  2  Itiner- 
ary. Sleep  at  Vejer ;  a  decent  inn  near  the 
bridge  over  the  Barbate.  The  journey  can  be 
performed  in  two  days. 

Itinerary  Second. 


San  Fernando 
Cadiz    . 


Leagues 


Gibraltar  to  Los  Barrios 

Leagues 
3 

Venta  de  Oje*n     . 
Venta  Lobalbarro 

2^ 
1 

Taivilla        . 

1 

Retin 

1 

Vejer           . 
Chiclana. 

4 

3 

x 

20 


It  has  been  performed  in  one  long  day,  trot- 
ting part  of  the  journey,  but  can  be  easily  ridden 
in  two,  sleeping  at  Casavieja.  Leave  Gibral- 
tar at  7.30 ;  if  much  luggage,  send  pack-horse 
earlier  to  Spanish  custom-house  with  keys,  to 
avoid  delay.  Follow  the  beach;  avoid  San 
Roque,  leave  Algeciras  to  the  left,  and  make 
for  Rio  Guadarranque,  along  a  tramway  con- 
structed to  carry  timber  to  the  arsenal  of  Car- 
racas  from  the  Sierra  de  Almorayma.  By  12 
at  noon  get  to  Venta  and  stream  de  la  Polvor- 
eda,  which  is  good  4$  leagues  from  Gibraltar. 
Lunch  in  the  wood  or  at  the  tidy  little  Venta, 
and  get  in  between  five  and  six  to  the  Gil  Bias 
sort  of  inn  at  Casavieja,  on  the  Barbate.  Around 
this  hamlet  there  is  excellent  shooting,  and  offi- 
cers of  the  garrison  at  Gibraltar  often  visit  it. 
Leave  next  morning  at  eight ;  Vejer  is  seen  in 
the  distance  to  the  left,  which  is  not  worth  visit- 
ing, and  about  11.30  to  12  a.m.  get  to  foot 
of  the  hill  on  which  Medina  Sidonia  rises ;  \  hr. 
to  ascend.  This  old  town,  the  Aside  of  the 
Romans,  and  Medinatru  Schidunah,  the  city 
of  Sidon,  or  Phoenician  Asidon,  was  a  stronghold 
during  the  wars  between  the  Moors  and  Chris- 
tians, and  the  court  of  the  puissant  dukes  of  the 
same  name  (now  better  known  as  Marqueses  de 
Villafranca),  one  of  whom  commanded  the  In- 
vincible Armada.  The  ruins  of  its  Castle  de  la 
Mota  are  associated  with  early  amorous  Span- 
ish ballads.  Here  was  confined  the  favourite 
of  Alfonso  XL,  and  here  also  Pedro  el  Cruel 
shut  up  the  fair  and  ill-fated  Blanche  de  Bour- 
bon. 

But,  except  for  its  picturesque,  airy  situation, 
we  do  not  advise  travellers  to  visit  it.  Its 
churches  are  clumsy,  its  streets  narrow,  steep, 
and  dirty.  Ladies  may  be,  perhaps,  glad  to 
know  that  they  may  leave  their  horses  here,  if 
they  choose,  and  take  a  calesa  on  springs,  and 
a  small  dil.  leaves  also  for  La  Isla  (office,  Calle 
San  Juan),  daily  in  summer,  and  in  winter  only 
on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays.  The 
road  is  excellent  to  Chiclana.  From  Medina  to 
La  Isla,  4  hrs. 

Chiclana. — 9004  inhab. ;  an  old  Phoenician 
town,  conquered  from  the  Moors  by  St.  Ferdi- 
nand, in  1251,  and  rebuilt  by  Alfonso  Perez  de 
Guzman,  1303.  There  are  some  sulphureous 
baths  at  Fuente  Amarga  and  Pozo  de  Braque, 
between  June  and  October.  It  is  a  favourite 
resort  with  the  Cadiz  lower  classes,  and  a  great 
bull-fighting  centre,  being  the  patria  of  the 
celebrated  Chiclalnero,  Montes*  rival.    There 


CADIZ — THE   CITY. 


05 


Is  a  gcod  and  very  detent  large  Fonda  in  th 
square  and  numerous  vehicles,  caliches,  an 
omnibuses  to  the  nation  at  La  Isla  (San  Fei 
nando),  »hr.  N.B.— Adailydil.  forGibralta 
leaves  San  Fernando  Slat,  at  6.30  a.m.,  passin 


by  Chiclana,  V 

jer,  Tarifa  a 

td  Algecinis.   The 

Ad  min  [strati  on 

«  b  Cadiz 

ind  San  Fernando 

also  let  out  carr 

ages  and  her 

sesforUlejonmev 

Cadis  is  one  of  the  most  charmingly 
situated  cities  in  the  world.  It  lies  at 
one  extremity  of  a  long  peninsula,  and 
is  joined  to  the  continent  on  the  S.  by 
a  very  narrow  strip  of  land.  It  rises, 
as  the  poet  says,  over  the  dark  Hue 
sea,  as  if  by  a  fairy's  wand,  with  its 
shining  white  walls,  its  long  rows  of 
elegant  houses,  crowned  with  terraces, 
with  glass  and  gilt  balconied  niiradores. 
In  the  centre  rise  the  high  towers  of  iis 
cathedral.  It  may  he  compared  to  a 
white  pearl  set  in  a  crown  of  sapphires 
and  emeralds,  or,  as  the  Gaditanoa  call 
it,  'tazita  de  plats,'  a  silver  cup,  just 
as  Babylon  was  likened  to  a  cap  of 
gold  (Jer.  li.  7).  Walk  round  its  granite 
ramparts,  the  Mltralla  del  Mar,  a  series 
of  spacious  terraces,  which  form  a  de- 
lightful evening  paste;  sail  across  its 


busy  bay,  the  outlines  of  which  have 
the  greatest  beauty  ;  traverse  its  streets. 
Dutch — clean,  and  formed  by  high, 
brightly  -  coloured,  and  gay  -  looking 
houses,  with  azotoas  or  terraces,  and 
a  turret  oftentimes  or  belvedere  at  an 
angle.  There  is  movement  and  life 
on  the  quays,  port,  and  in  the  town. 
Cadiz,  once  the  emporium  of  the  world, 
must,  from  its  very  situation,  recover 
some  day  part  at  least  of  its  former 
prosperity.  By  the  ocean  it  communi- 
cates with  Portugal,  the  Gallicisn 
ports,  France,  England,  Holland,  and 
is  one  of  the  European  ports  nearest 
to,  and  best  placed  for,  the  trade  with 
America.  By  the  strait*  it  is  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  principal  ports 
of  Morocco,  Algiers,  Italy,  the  east 
and  south  of  France.  A  lengthened 
residence  in  Cadiz  may,  in  the  end, 
appear  monotonous  to  the  invalid  and 
traveller,  as  there  is  hut  little  society, 
and,  consequently,  no  great  variety  of 
faces,  topics  of  conversation,  or  those 
petty  events  which  are,  after  all,  'la 
graude  affaire'  of  the  man  of  pleasure. 
Some  intimate  tertulias  at  the  hos- 
pitable merchants'  houses,  the  play  at 
the  tolerable  theatre,  and  a  chit-chat 
or  almost  solitary  lecture  at  the  com- 
fortable casino ;  a  ball,  perhaps  two 
subscription  dances  at  the  casino,  ex- 
cursions to  Puerto  Sta.  Maria,  Jerez, 
Rota,  etc. — this  is  all  that  must  be 
expected.  For  there  is  little  art :  the 
architecture  of  houses,  churches,  and 
public  edifices  is  mostly  modern,  paint- 
ings are  rare,  and,  ss  the  witty  French- 
man said,  'id  les  lettres  de  change 
sont  les  belles  lettres,'  and  the  only 
man  of  letters  one  cares  to  see  is  the 
postman,  el  cartem.  But  Cadiz,  in  a 
more  positive  sense,  affords  many  com- 
forts, which  continued  intercourse  with 
foreigners,  especially  English,  has  in- 
troduced, and  that  are  unknown  in  the 
more  inland  and  larger  Spanish  cities. 


96 


CADIZ. 


Historical  Notice. — Cadiz  was  the 
'ultima  terrae,'  the  Biblical  Tarshish, 
the  fortunate  Erythrea  and  Island  of 
Juno,  the  happy  Iberian  region  of 
Homer,  Anacreon,  etc  It  is  conjec- 
tured that  shortly  after  the  destruction 
of  Troy,  some  Phoenician  traders  sailed 
in  search  of  new  debouches  along  the 
coast  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  came 
as  far  as  Cadiz.  Here,  they  thought, 
were  the  limits  of  the  world,  and  here, 
probably,  almost  ended  the  sea,  Africa 
being  separated  from  the  European  con- 
tinent by  a  very  narrow  channel ;  they 
therefore  erected,  more  suo,  two  high 
pyramids,  on  the  promontories  of  Aby- 
la  (Ceuta)  and  Calpe  (Gibraltar),  ex- 
tending in  subsequent  times  their  jour- 
ney as  far  as  Gaddir.  Gaddir  now 
became  an  important  trading  port.  A 
magnificent  temple  was  erected  to  the 
Lybian  Hercules.  Gaddir,  when  the 
Carthaginians  became  powerful,  be- 
trayed its  rulers,  siding  with  the 
former.  It  fell  likewise  an  easy  prey 
to  the  Romans.  The  first  colonia  was 
established  171  B.C.  Caesar  considered 
its  situation  most  important,  fortified 
it,  and  made  it  the  head  of  Tingitane, 
or  Transpetane  Spain ;  its  inhabitants 
enjoyed  all  the  privileges  of  free  Roman 
citizens,  and  it  was  called  Augusta  Urbs, 
and  Julia  Gaditana.  Cadiz  and  Seville 
were  then  important  naval  arsenals. 
Caesar  says :  \  Naves  longas  decern 
Gaditanis  ut  facerent  imperavit ;  com- 
plures  praeterea  Hispali  faciendas  cu- 
ravit/  Under  the  Romans  Cadiz  be- 
came the  emporium  of  the  world ;  its 
salt-fish  monopoly,  most  of  the  tin  of 
England  and  amber  of  the  Baltic,  its 
marble  palaces,  amphitheatres,  and  aque- 
ducts (that  of  Terapul  especially) ;  its 
Via  Lata,  which  went  to  Rome  by  Seville, 
Merida,  Ciudad  Rodrigo,  Salamanca, 
Leon,  south  of  France  and  Italy;  its 
merchant  princes,  its  fleets  of  war  and 
of  commerce,  have  all  been  sung  by 


the  poets  of  Rome,  and  praised  by  its 
writers.  It  was  the  Venice  of  mediaeval 
Europe,  the  Paris  of  our  days,  was  in- 
habited by  500  Roman  equites,  which 
Rome  alone  and  Padua  could  boast  of 
possessing — more  the  city,  say  Martial 
and  Juvenal,  of  Venus  than  of  Diana, 
the  gastronomic  purveyor  of  the  Lu- 
culli  and  other  Brill  at  Savarins  ot 
Rome,  renowned  for  its  ballet-girls, 
the  improbce  Gaditance,  whose  move- 
ments turned  every  head. 

In  the  5th  century  it  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Goths,  and  in  the  8th  into 
those  of  the  Arabs,  who  called  it  Djezi- 
rah- Kadis,  and  retained  it  in  their  power 
for  upwards  of  500  years.  It  was  retaken 
by  Don  Alfonso  the  Learned,  September 
14,  1262,  rebuilt  by  him,  and  peopled 
with  families  brought  from  the  moun- 
tains of  Santander,  Laredo,  etc.,  a  sad 
mixture  with  the  Attic  '  Sal  de  Anda- 
lucia. '  Its  prosperity  revived  with  the 
discovery  of  America,  being  made  with 
Seville  the  entrep6t  of  its  gold  and 
merchandise.  In  1509,  Queen  Doiia 
Juana,  by  suppressing  the  monopoly 
which  Seville  enjoyed  of  sending  fleets 
to  the  Indies,  added  greatly  to  its  wealth 
and  importance,  and  Barbarossa,  at  the 
head  of  a  fleet  of  piratical  galleys,  at- 
tacked the  city,  gorged,  as  he  knew, 
with  gold.  It  was  saved  by  Doria's 
activity ;  but  the  pirates  of  Algiers  and 
Morocco  never  lost  sight  of  the  treasure, 
and  attacked  it  oftentimes  after,  espe- 
cially in  1553  and  1574,  when  it  was 
almost  taken,  and  saved  only  by 
chance — that  Providence  of  fools  and 
the  imprudent.  In  1587  Cadiz  was 
attacked  by  Drake,  who  destroyed  its 
ships  and  dockyards,  and  was  cruelly 
sacked  in  1596  by  Lord  Essex,  the 
booty  amounting  to  thirteen  ships  of 
war,  and  forty  enormous  galleons  loaded 
with  American  gold,  etc.  Two  subse- 
quent English  attacks,  in  1625  and 
1702,  failed  before  a  well-armed  gar- 


CADIZ — CLIMATE. 


9fr 


rison,  and  through  ill-planned  and 
worse  executed  manoeuvres.  During 
the  Peninsular  war,  Cadiz  was  made 
the  centre  of  the  Spanish  resistance, 
and  seat  of  its  celebrated  Cortes.  Its 
wealth  and  commercial  importance  were 
very  great,  even  as  recently  as  the  mid- 
dle and  end  of  the  last  century.  Every 
banking  and  mercantile  house  in  the 
globe  had  its  agents  here.  Adam  Smith, 
in  1770,  wrote  that  the  merchants  of 
London  had  not  yet  the  means  to  com- 
pete with  the  wealth  of  those  of  Cadiz. 
In  1792,  the  gold  and  silver  imported 
from  America  to  this  port  amounted  to 
125  millions  ;  the  general  importations 
being  that  year  (from  America  alone) 
175  millions.  Its  arsenal  employed 
upwards  of  5000  men,  and  the  *  Cales' 
or  *  Callice'  of  the  English  enjoyed  a 
world-wide  reputation.  The  war  of 
1793  was  the  first  blow  dealt  to  its 
prosperity ;  the  independence  of  the 
Spanish  colonies,  the  second ;  French 
invasion,  intrigues,  and  civil  war  have 
done  the  rest.  But  its  importance  not 
depending  on  the  whim  of  a  monarch 
or  the  caprice  of  an  hour,  but  resting  on 
the  more  solid  advantages  and  favours 
of  situation  and  climate,  will,  we 
have  no  doubt,  come  back,  when  rail- 
ways, religious  tolerance,  and  homet 
not  foreign  colonisation  have  borne 
their  fruit. 

Climate. — Cadiz  lies  open  to  every 
wind,  which  consequently  exposes  it  to 
sudden  and  frequent  changes  in  the 
temperature.  The  most  prevalent  winds 
come  from  the  sea.  According  to  D. 
Francis,  the  land  winds,  ranging  be- 
tween K.  to  S.E.,  prevailed  during  109 
days,  and  the  sea  winds  (S.  S.  W.  by  "W. ) 
during  240  days, — based  on  5  years' 
observations.  The  maximum  preva- 
lence of  the  sea  winds  is  during  the 
spring  :  the  land  winds  reach  it  in  win- 
ter. Their  influence  on  the  thermo- 
meter is  indifferent ;  they  give  tone  to 


phlegmatic  constitutions,  and  last  some- 
times five  or  six  days.  The  Levanter, 
soft  and  invigorating  at  Malaga  and 
Valencia,  is  here  hurtful  to  weak  con- 
stitutions, and  precursory  of  storms  and 
rain.  The  sirocco  (S.  E.)  is  as  bad,  and 
the  thermometer  rises  under  its  in- 
fluence six  to  seven  degrees.  The 
nervous  system  is  excited,  irritated, 
and  the  sick  suffer  greatly  during  its 
prevalence. 

But  as  to  temperature,  Cadiz  is  supe- 
rior to  any  medical  station  both  in  Ttaly 
and  Spain.  '  The  mean  temperature  of 
winter,'  says  Dr.  Francis,  *is  four  de- 
grees warmer  than  Rome  or  Naples,  and 
six  than  that  of  Pisa.  The  same  may 
be  said  of  spring,  the  temperature  of 
which  being  60'28  Fahr.,  exceeds  that 
of  Rome  and  Pisa  by  three  degrees  and 
two ;  the  mean  diurnal  range  is  ten, 
being  identical  with  Madeira.'  Sum- 
mer is  very  tolerable,  owing  to  the 
constant  sea-breezes,  and  the  tem- 
perature is  as  soft  and  warm  in  the 
end  of  February  as  it  is  in  the  end 
of  March  in  the  most  favoured  of  other 
Spanish  medical  stations.  Autumn  is 
less  subject  than  other  seasons  to  sud- 
den changes,  and  as  to  winter,  Decem- 
ber and  January,  the  coldest  winds 
never  bring  down  the  thermometer 
under  41°  Fahr. 

Cadiz  is  more  rainy  than  any  part  of 
the  Mediterranean  coast  of  Spain,  but 
this  statement  need  not  deter  invalids 
from  choosing  it  as  a  residence,  for  the 
average  number  of  rainy  days  is  99,  the 
quantity  of  rain  22  in.,  and  at  Madeira 
the  quantity  of  rain  exceeds  considerably 
that  at  Cadiz,  though  it  is  not  so  fre- 
quent.  It  seldom  lasts  here  but  a  few 
hours,  and,  as  Lee  and  others  say,  is 
made  up  of  showers,  with  intervals  of 
sunshine.  A  curious  fact  arises  from 
a  comparative  study  of  rain  in  England, 
Italy,  and  Spain — viz.  that  while  the 
rainy  days  in  England  are  more  frequent, 


98 


CADIZ. 


the  quantity  that  falls  is  greater  in  Italy 
and  Spain.  In  a  word,  Cadiz  is  one  of  the 
most  favoured  medical  stations  in  Spain, 
and  that  which  unites  most  advantages 
to  general  invalids.  Its  defects  are, 
variability  and  the  sirocco,  but  these  do 
not  affect  constitutions  seriously,  except 
in  cases  of  irritable  nervousness.  The 
water  supply  is  now  excellent,  an  ad- 
vantage shared  by  most  Spanish  cities ; 
and  although  the  death-rate  is  high, — 
45  per  thousand, — it  must  be  remem- 
bered that  the  excessive  infant  mortal- 
ity, arising  from  want  of  proper  treat- 
ment, accounts  in  a  great  measure  for 
the  bad  return. 

Hotels. — De  Paris,  Plaza  del  Orato, 
Plaza  San  Francisco,  and  Calle  Vargos 
Ponce  ;  a  new  house,  excellent.  Hotel 
de  France,  Plaza  Mina ;  and  Hotel  de 
Cadiz,  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  'both 
good  and  well  situated.  Pension  from 
10  pes.  Fonda  Suiza,  Calle  Duque  de 
Tetuan,  fair. 

Cafes.  —  Cerveceria  Inglesa,  Oadi- 
tano,  both  in  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion ; 
1  El  Tinted  Plaza  de  Mina;  Maier, 
Calle  Zorilla. 

Baths. — Oriental,  Calle  Marzal,  29; 
also  warm  sea-water.  Sea-water  baths 
may  be  had  at  the  establishments  on 
the  Alameda  de  Apodaca  and  at  the 
Muelle. 

Tariff  for  hired  Carriages. 

Carriages  of  the  first-class  (large  caleches)  .* 

First  hour    ....  2or. 

Second  and  every  other       .  isr. 

No  course. 
Carriages  of  the  second  class  :— 

First  hour    .        .        .        .  tyc. 

Second  and  every  other       .  xor. 

Street  cabs,  one  horse,  8  reals  per 
hour  and  course. 

Hired  horses  may  be  had  at  £1 
Picadero,  Plaza  del  Balon. 


Telegraph  Office. — Open  day  and 
night,  at  the  Admin.  Principal, 
Alameda  Apodaca. 

Post  Office. — Admin.  Principal, 
Calle  de  Sacramento,  1.  The  hours 
depend  a  good  deal  on  those  of  the 
trains,  and  so  are  apt  to  vary.  For 
poste  restante  business,  from  11  to  12 
a.m.  and  2  to  3  p.m.  For  apartado  an 
hour  and  a  half  after  the  arrival  of  the 
mails.  For  registered  letters  11  to  3, 
and  8  to  9  in  the  evening.  There  are 
also  boxes  in  all  the  Estancos,  railway 
company's  offices  and  stations.  The 
general  mail  leaves  at  5.30  a.m.,  and 
arrives  at  7.35  p.m.  For  ship -mails 
see  special  announcements. 

For  Directory,  Consuls*  Addresses, 
etc.,  see  p.  101. 

Tariff  for  Boats. — To  and  from 
steamers,  4r.  a  person,  3r.  a  portman- 
teau. Pay  the  porters,  called  here  de- 
mandaderos,  for  a  portmanteau  carried 
from  mole  to  custom-house,  4r.  ;  from 
custom-house  to  any  part  of  town,  2r. 
each  parcel 

Steamers  to  Moguer,  8  lira. ;  ditto 
to  Huelva,  9  hrs.  Neither  are  of  great 
interest.  Palos,  a  port  near  Moguer,  is 
celebrated  for  the  convent  of  la  Rabida, 
which  received  Columbus  in  1484,  and 
whose  prior,  Perez  de  Marchena,  en- 
couraged him  to  follow  his  plans  and 
ideas.  Columbus  having  discovered 
America,  returned  to  this  port  March 
15,  1493.  The  convent  has  been  very 
much  improved  Lately  by  the  Due  de 
Montpensier. 

The  Port,  Bat,  and  Trade. — The 
entrance  to  this  magnificent  bay  lies 
between  the  city  and  the  small  town  and 
cape  of  Rota.  The  bay  is  most  spaci- 
ous, and  affords  excellent  anchorage  in 
the  inner  portion,  the  outer  one  being 
exposed  to  the  S.W.  The  port  is  placed 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  town,  where  three 
moles  project — that  of  'Sevilla'  in  front 
of  the  custom-house  ;  the  Muelle  del 


CADIZ— CATHEDRALS. 


99 


Puerto  Piojo,  which  leads  into  the  city 
through  the  Puerta  de  San  Carlos,  and 
the  '  Principal, '  close  to  the  Puerta  de 
Tierra,  another  of  the  four  principal 
entrances  to  Cadiz  (the  two  others  are 
Puerta  de  Sevilla  and  Puerta  de  la 
Caleta,  which  leads  to  the  castle  and 
lighthouse  (S.W.  of  San  Sebastian).  This 
Principal  is  of  considerable  extent,  and 
has  been  recently  prolonged  by  some 
550  ft.  The  water  is  not  sufficiently 
deep  to  allow  large  vessels  to  approach 
nearer  than  J  of  a  mile,  where  five  and 
seven  fathoms  are  reached.  There  are 
some  dangerous  rocks  opposite  the  town ; 
the  '  Cochinos '  and  *  Puercas '  lie  $ ths 
of  a  mile  ;  the  '  Diamante '  lies  H  m. 
off  the  city,  and  is  not  so  dangerous. 
At  spring-tide  the  water  rises  10  or  11 
ft.,  but  often  does  not  exceed  6  ft.  The 
inner  bay  is  divided  naturally  from  the 
outer  one  by  the  promontory,  having  at 
its  extremity  the  castle  of  Matagorda, 
which  approaches  within  |  of  a  mile  of 
the  Puntales  castle  on  the  Isla  de  Leon. 
In  the  inner  portion  is  the  arsenal  of 
Carracas,  and  the  small  '  Poblacion  de 
San  Carlos,'  a  naval  depdt,  established 
1776,  on  the  plans  of  Marq.  de  TJrena. 
Here  is  a  fine  naval  college,  and  the 
Panteon  de  Marinos  Ilustres,  the  Alpha 
and  Omega,  the  cradle  and  the  tomb. 
In  its  chapel  are  preserved  an  image  of 
the  Virgen  del  Rosario,  which  Don 
Juan  of  Austria  carried  on  his  galley  at 
Lepanto,  and  a  chalice  with  his  crest 
and  arms.  Here  is  also  the  canal  of 
Trocadero,  celebrated  for  the  victory  of 
Duke  of  Angoul6me  in  1 823.  The  trade 
is  gradually  reviving ;  railroads  com- 
municating with  central  Spain,  new 
lines  of  steamers  plying  between  the 
principal  Spanish  and  foreign  ports, 
manufactories  arising  here  and  there, 
banks  and  credit  companies  being  daily 
established,  will  tend  to  increase  it. 
The  number  of  ships  of  all  nationalities 
entered  at  the    port  is  about  2300, 


of  the  aggregate  tonnage  of  1,235,381 ; 
327  of  these  being  British  vessels.  The 
chief  exports  are — cork,  about  30,000 
kilos;  figs,  about  1,000,000  kilos; 
lead,  in  bars,  about  400  tons;  olives 
and  olive  oil,  to  a  very  large  amount ; 
salt,  about  25,000  tons ;  and  wine, 
about  63,000  butts  ;  also  oranges  (220 
tons),  raisins  and  other  fruits.  The 
chief  imports  are — coal,  about  53,000 
tons  ;  iron,  about  2000  tons ;  wheat, 
11,000,000  kilos ;  also  spirits  (chiefly 
for  adulterative  purposes),  tobacco, 
sugar,  machinery,  etc.,  to  a  very  large 
amount.  See  General  Information, 
Wines,  etc 

Sights. —  Cathedral  (the  old  and 
new) ;  Convent  de  los  Capuchinos  (Mu- 
rillos) ;  excursions  to  Puerto  Sta.  Maria, 
Rota,  etc. 

Cathedral. — The  old  cathedral,  La 
Vieja,  now  abandoned  for  the  new  one, 
was  built  in  the  13th  century,  in  Alfonso 
II. 's  reign,  and  by  Mm  erected  to  a 
cathedral,  the  See  of  Sidonia  having 
been  removed  hither  by  a  bull  of  Pope 
Urban  IV.  New  chapels  were  added 
in  the  15th  and  16th  centuries.  It  was 
almost  all  destroyed  by  fire  during  the 
sack  of  the  city  by  Lord  Essex.  It  was 
immediately  repaired,  or  rather  rebuilt, 
and  thirteen  chapels  erected.  The  edi- 
fice is  low  and  mean,  with  a  facade 
of  bastardised  Revival,  decorated  with 
statues,  some  of  which  have  been  re- 
moved to  the  new  cathedral.  It  is  most 
indifferent. 

tftatfltttral  Wntba,  or  de  la  Santa 
Cruz,  was  begun  1720,  on  the  plans  of 
Messrs.  Acero  and  Cayon,  pupils  of  the 
so-called  Salamanca  school,  founded  by 
Churriguera  and  Tome.  The  works  were 
interrupted  from  want  of  funds  till  1832, 
when  they  were  resumed  at  the  expense 
of  the  privy  purse  of  the  late  most 
virtuous  and  zealous  bishop,  Don  Do- 
mingo de  Siloe,  the  edifice  costing  some 


100 


CADIZ. 


£300,000.  The  style  is  classical,  the 
exterior  plain,  not  wanting  in  effect ; 
the  interior  over-ornamented,  very  chur- 
rigueresque  in  its  details,  and  decorated 
with  precious  marbles  from  Genoa,  and 
jaspers  from  Arcos  and  Manilva.  It  is 
of  the  Corinthian  order,  and  measures 
305  feet  long,  216  feet  wide,  and  189 
feet  to  the  cupola.  The  turrets  outside 
are  207  feet  high.  Some  portions  are 
still  unfinished.  The  tasteless  high  altar, 
of  white  marble,  cost  upwards  of  £7000, 
one  half  being  the  gift  of  the  ex-Queen 
Isabella.  The  paintings  are  few,  and  all 
indifferent ;  a  good  copy  of  one  of  Mu- 
rillo's  Concepciones,  by  Clemente  de 
Torres,  and  a  San  Lucas,  ascribed  to 
Ribera.  The  Custodia  is  valued  at 
£10,000.  The  silleria  del  coro,  once  in 
the  Carthusian  convent  of  Sta.  Maria 
de  las  Cuevas  of  Seville,  and  then  in 
the  Seville  Picture  Gallery,  has  been 
removed  here  in  1859.  It  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  Spain,  and  the  masterpiece  of 
Pedro  Duque  Cornejo,  a  pupil  of  Rol- 
dan's.  The  chapels,  relics,  and  jewels 
are  all  indifferent 

Los  Captjohinos,  formerly  a  convent, 
was  built  1641.  The  church  is  unin- 
teresting, but  contains  paintings  which 
are  gems.  Over  the  high  altar  is  the 
celebrated  Marriage  of  St  Catharine, 
Murillo's  last  work,  executed  1682,  and 
about  to  be  finished  when  he  fell  from 
the  scaffolding,  dying  shortly  after. 
Meneses  Osorio,  at  his  request,  finished 
it.  The  San  Juan  Bautista,  St  Michael, 
and  other  minor  subjects,  are  by  Meneses 
Osorio,  after  designs  by  Murillo.  Ob- 
serve over  a  lateral  altar  a  grand  Mu- 
rillo, St.  Francis  receiving  the  Stigmata. 
The  head,  hands,  colouring — all  is  per- 
fect. In  the  Capilla  del  Sagrario  there 
is  another,  but  inferior  Murillo,  and  a 
small  Concepcion. 

San  Felipe  Neri. — A  Concepcion 
over  high  altar,  by  Murillo,  and  a  Padre 
Eterno,  by  Clemente  de  Torres.   In  Los 


Descazlos  some  good  carvings  by  Ver- 
gara  and  Roldan. 

The  Piottjke  Gallery  (Acade'mia 
de  Bellas  Aries)  in  the  Plaza  de  Mina 
(open  daily  9  to  3,  Sun.  10  to  3  ;  Cat. 
2  pes. )  contains  some  good  Zurbarans, 
Giordanos,  Bassanos,  and  modern 
works.  The  older  masters  are  well 
arranged  in  the  first  long  room ;  the 
modern  pictures  in  an  inner  salon.  In 
Room  I.,  note  especially,  right-hand 
wall  on  entering:  (17)  a  St.  Bruno, 
by  Costanzi ;  (95)  a  Virgin  and  Child 
(Cologne  School) ;  (32)  the  Fowr  Latin 
Fathers  of  the  Church  (Jordaens) ;  (4) 
Christ  Driving  out  the  Money-changers 
(Bassano) ;  (2)  Christ  in  the  House  of 
the  Pharisee  (Bassano) ;  (7)  Virgin  and 
Child  appearing  to  St.  Francis  (A. 
Cano).  Left-hand  wall :  (39)  a  Last 
Judgment  (painter  unknown) ;  (23)  a 
Still  Life  (Heems) ;  (27)  St.  Michael 
(L.  Giordano) ;  Zurbaran's  fine  series 
of  saints  from  the  Jerez  Cartuja,  (66) 
St.  John  the  Baptist,  (67)  St.  Laur- 
ence, (80)  St.  Mattliew ;  also  (63)  the 
Portiuncula,  an  altar-piece  from  the 
Capuchin  church  at  Jerez,  represent- 
ing the  rebuilding  of  the  Church  of 
Portiuncula  at  Assisi  by  St.  Francis  ; 
(64)  St.  Bruno  ;  (65)  Pentecost ;  (68-74) 
Carthusian  Monks ;  (77-79)  SS.  John, 
Mark,  and  Luke.  An  Ecce  Homo  by 
Murillo  (34)  was  also  brought  here 
from  the  Jerez  church. 

In  Room  II.  (modern  pictures)  the 
following  are  noteworthy  :  right-hand 
wall  on  entering — (151)  Murillo's  Fall 
in  the  Capuchin  church  (see  above),  by 
Alex.  Ferrant ;  (125)  Balcony  of  the 
Signoria  at  Florence  (Abbati) ;  (183) 
Victory  of  Cadiz  over  the  Pirates  of 
Morocco  (Ferrant).  End  wall—(200) 
The  Junta  of  Cadiz  in  1810  communi- 
cating to  the  people  the  answer  given 
to  Soult's  demand  for  the  surrender  of 
the  town  (Rodriguez).  Left-hand  wall 
— (135)  Sierra  of  C&rdoba  (Belmonte) ; 
(160)  Portrait  (R.  Garcia) ;  (156)  copy 
of  Tobar's  portrait  of  Murillo  (J.  G. 


CADIZ. 


101 


Chicano) ;  a  View  of  Barcelona,  by 
Meifren ;  The  Burial  of  Isabella  la 
Catdlica,  by  Viniegra. 

Promenades,  Theatres,  etc.  —  The 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  and  de  Mina 
are  the  principal  squares  ;  the  Muralla 
del  Mar,  the  Alameda^  and  the  Parque 
Genoves  (band),  the  finest  promenades ; 
the  Calles  Duque  de  Tetuan  and 
Canovas  de  Castillo  the  best  streets  for 
shops.  Just  off  the  Sacramento,  in 
the  Calle  de  Bulas,  stands  the  lofty 
Torre  de  la  Vigia,  100  ft.  high,  from 
whence  the  ships  are  signalled  (fee 
50  c,  fine  view  from  the  top).  The 
Jardin  Botdnico,  behind  the  Parque 
Genov6s,  contains  some  valuable  trees 
and  plants — specimens  of  the  Dracaena 
Draco  (one  500  years  old),  a  *Tras- 
parente'  tree  of  New  Zealand  (Myo- 
porum  lacteum),  and  a  fine  array  of 
tree  geraniums  and  cacti.  Near  this 
garden,  in  the  Calle  de  la  Palma,  a 
curious  mural  painting  may  be  seen 
close  by  the  church  of  San  Leandro, 
ascribed  to  Murillo  (!),  and  commem- 
orative of  the  fact  that  on  1st  Nov. 
1755  a  threatened  inundation  was  here 
stayed  by  the  pious  devotion  of  the 
priests  attached  to  the  church.  Cadiz 
possesses  two  good  theatres, — the  Prin- 
cipal, in  the  Calle  Aranda,  and  the 
Cdmico,  in  the  C.  de  la  Murga> — also 
a  Bull  Ring,  rebuilt  in  1862,  and  cap- 
able of  holding  11,000  spectators.  To 
the  handsome  Casino  strangers  can  be 
admitted  by  consular,  etc.,  introduc- 
tion. 

Dieectoey.  —  Consuls. — H.B.M.  's, 
Calle  Marzal,  38,  A.  H.  Vecqueray, 
Esq.;  Vice-Consul,  E.  H.  Andrewes, 
Esq.  (Church  of  England  service  every 
Sunday  morning  at  the  Consulate). 
Vice  -  Consul  at  San  Lucar,  A.  J. 
Aparicio  ;  at  Puerto  Sta.  Maria,  R.  J. 
Pitman,  Esq.;  at  San  Roque,  G.  F. 


Cornwell,  Esq.      U.S.A.— J.  H.  Car- 
roll, Esq. 

Doctor. — Cel.  Parraga,  Canovas  del 
Castillo,  5.  Speaks  English  and 
French. 

Chemists. — Viercio,  Calle  San  Fran- 
cisco, 25  ;  Hohr,  C.  del  Castillo,  36. 

Homoeopathic  Depot. — Calle  Come- 
dias,  3. 

Bankers. — Aramburu,  1  Plaza  de  la 
Constitucion  ;  Succursale  of  the  Bank 
of  Spain,  Cruz  de  la  Madera,  4 ;  Duarte 
(Coutts),  Plaza  Mina,  18. 

Casa  de  Cambw. — Calle  San  Fran- 
cisco, 16. 

Cadiz  is  celebrated  for  fans,  ladies' 
shoes,  gloves,  and  guitars.  Spanish 
music,  guitars,  castagnettes,  may  be 
purchased  at  Quirell's,  17  Rosario ; 
fans,  Rivera,  Calle  de  la  Constitucion  ; 
gloves  in  the  Calle  Tetuan.  Tailors, 
several  good  in  the  Calle  San  Fran- 
cisco. Hairdresser,  Rey,  Rosario,  10. 
Groceries,  etc.,  Moyano,  C.  del  Cas- 
tillo, 41.  Wines,  Arana,  Plaza' de  la 
Constitucion,  16. 

Booksellers. — Ibanez,  C.  Duque  de 
Tetuan,  35  ;  Morillas,  San  Francisco, 
36  ;  Joly  y  Velasco  (La  Revista 
Me\iica),  Ceballos,  1.  A  good  assort- 
ment of  maps,  plans,  etc.,  may  be 
met  with  at  the  Litografia  Alemana, 
Canovas  del  Castillo,  23. 

Cadiz  possesses  no  good  public  lib- 
raries. The  best  are  the  Provincial, 
containing  about  30,000  vols.,  open  to 
the  public  from  10  a.m.  to  3  p.m. 
(closed  on  holidays),  and  that  of  tho 
Bishopric,  with  about  3000  vols.,  and 
open  upon  presentation  of  card. 

Excursions. — To  Puerto  de  Sta. 
Maria,  conveyances  two  and  three  times 
a  day ;  steamers  leave  near  the  railway 
station,  Puerto  del  Mar,  Pes.  1.25, 70  c; 
it  is  2  leagues  by  sea.    By  rail,  18f  m. 


102 


CADIZ — ENVIRONS. 


1st  cl.,  ps.  4.25  ;  2d  cl.  ps.  8.10  ;  3d  cl. 
ps.  1.85  ;  in  1J  hr.,  four  trains  a  day. 
Inns, — Vista-  Alegre  and  La  Torre ;  pop. 
21,714 ;  on  right  bank  of  the  Guadalete. 
It  was  the  Greek  port  of  Mnesthea. 
This  small,  clean,  uninteresting  city  is 
very  popular  with  the  majos  and  bull- 
fighters. Its  plaza  de  toros  holds  1 0,000 
spectators.  Visit  the  house  of  Marques 
de  Purullena,  which  contains  some  good 
paintings  and  carving.  Excellent  wine, 
much  like  but  inferior  to  that  of  Xeres, 
is  produced  here.  The  bodegas  are  in- 
teresting. The  principal  houses  are 
Cosens  de  Mora,  Duff  Gordon,  Gon- 
zalez, Pitman,  etc.  San  Fernando,  20 
minutes  by  rail,  is  also  called  La  Isla 
de  Leon,  and  is  an  island  which  the 
bridge  of  Zuazo  connects  to  the  main 
land,  and  over  which  one  crosses  the 
salted  river  of  Sancti  Petri.  Observe 
all  around  the  white  snowy  mounds 
shining  in  the  sun,  for  here  are  the  salt- 
pans (salinas)  that  bring  in  so  important 
a  revenue  to  the  state.  The  observa- 
tory of  San  Fernando  is  the  oldest  in 
Spain,  and  is  well  provided  with  instru- 
ments, mostly  English  (Froughton  and 
Simms's  and  Newman's). 

La  Carraca. — Steamers  twice  a-day, 
in  14  hr.,  and  by  rail  to  San  Fernando, 
and  then  by  omnibus  (2r.)  Leave  to 
see  it  easily  granted.  This  is  one  of  the 
most  important  Government  dockyards 
in  Spain,  and  though  considerably  de- 
cayed, is  fast  recovering  part  at  least  of 
its  former  prosperity.  It  was  esta- 
blished 1760.  Visit  the  Caldereria, 
Arboladura,  Forja,  Fundicion,  rope- 
walks,  etc.  There  are  three  docks,  two 
of  which  can  hold  ships  with  keels  mea- 
suring 230  feet  long.  During  the  work- 
hours  there  are  some  900  men  variously 
employed,  of  whom  800  are  presidarios. 
The  edifices,  cisterns,  etc.,  are  all  on  a 
large  scale,  and  its  whole  area  is  of 
949,580  square  varas. 

To  La  Bota. — By  steamer  to  Puerto 


Sta.  Maria  (or  by  rail  all  the  way), 
and  thence  by  rail,  3  trains  daily,  in 
half  an  hour  ;  fares,  from  Sta.  Maria, 
Pos.  2.10,  1.40,  90  c.  The  wine 
called  Tintilla  de  Rota  is  made 
here,  and  when  pure  and  anejo,  is  not 
to  be  despised  by  connoisseurs.  7256 
inhab.  The  interior  of  its  parish  church 
is  Gothic  and  spacious.  This  Phoeni- 
cian-built town  was  never  of  any  im- 
portance, and  is  dull  and  uninteresting. 

Puerto  Beal. —  By  rail,  }  hr.  ; 
founded  in  1488  by  Queen  Isabelle.  A 
small  village,  all  regularity,  ennui,  and 
dirt ;  a  good  new  basin  for  steamers. 
On  the  first  days  of  May  there  is  a  fair 
held  here,  much  frequented  by  the  lower 
classes,  and  abounding  then  in  pictur- 
esque groups,  dresses,  etc. 

Sanlucar  (de  Barrameda). — 9  leagues 
by  land  and  7J  by  sea.  By  rail  vid 
Jerez  (47  miles) ;  or  by  shorter  route, 
Puerto  de  Sta.  Maria-Rota-Chipiona, 
two  or  three  trains  daily,  in  about  an 
hour,  from  Puerto  de  Sta.  Maria.  Also 
by  irregular  steamers  (see  local  adver- 
tisements). Fonda  Ballestros;  fair 
food.  Population  21,000.  San  Lucar 
boasts  of  a  foundation  dating  to  about 
the  year  307  before  Christ!  It  was 
recovered  from  the  Moors  by  Alfonso 
the  Learned,  who  called  it  San  Lucas, 
placing  it  under  the  patronage  of  that 
saint.  How  this  is  to  be  reconciled 
with  its  Roman  name,  Lucifer,  is 
difficult  to  guess  ;  however,  the  latter 
is  a  match  to  the  other  in  puzzling 
etymologies.  The  canting  arms  are 
a  castle  with  a  star  above,  and  at 
the  foot  of  it  a  bull  and  an  inkstand, 
the  attributes  of  St.  Luke,  and  the 
motto  'Luciferi  fani  Senatus.'  The 
climate  is  delightful,  and  the  Mont- 
pensier  family  has  here  a  charming 
summer  villa.  There  is  an  ancient 
parish  church  of  the  beginning  of  the 
14th  century,  a  good  example  of  Mude- 
jar  architecture.    Observe  the  facade,  a 


CARTAGENA. 


103 


rich  Moorish  roof  studded  with  stars. 
It  was  built  by  Dona  Isabel  de  la  Cerda. 
It  is  dedicated  to  Our  Lady  of  the  0. 
There  is  also  a  classical  church  of  San 
Francisco.  The  wines  vie  with  those  of 
Xerez  and  the  Puerto  ;  the  bodegas  are 
large  and  curious,  the  exports  consider- 
able. 

Excursion  to  Huelva,  and.  the  mines  of 
Bio  Tinto,  etc,  by  Sea.— A  small  steamer 
runs  to  Huelva  two  or  three  times  per  week,  in 
about  5  hrs.  From  thence  railway  into  the 
mining  district.  Pop.  of  Huelva,  18,000. 
Hotels:  Madrid,  Albion,  Cuatro  Naciones. 
H.13.M.  Vice.Consul,  E.  Diaz,  Esq.  This 
ancient  town  is  rapidly  increasing  in  import- 
ance, owing  to  the  shipping,  etc.,  trade,  con- 
nected with  the  mines.  There  is  also  a  large 
exportation  of  wine.  The  climate  is  delicious 
and  well  suited  to  invalids.  Excursion  by  boat 
to  Palos  and  the  convent  of  Santa  Maria  la 
Rabida.  From  the  former,  Columbus  set  sail, 
Aug.  3, 1492,  to  discover  his  new  world,  return- 
ing here  again  March  15,  1493.  Here,  too, 
Hernando  Cortes  landed,  May  1528,  after  his 
conquest  of  Mexico.  At  the  convent  of  La 
Rdbida  Columbus  was  received  and  sheltered 
by  Perez  de  Marchena,  the  far-sighted  prior, 
to  whose  influence  Isabella's  patronage  of  the 
seemingly  visionary  scheme  of  discovery  was 


presently  due.  (See  Prescott :  also  the  works 
by  Harrison,  in  America,  by  F.  Duro  and  others, 
in  Spain,  after  the  Columbus  centenary,  1894.) 
The  mines,  of  which  Rio  Tinto  stands  at  the 
head,  are  situated  some  30  m.  inland,  and, 
while  not  possessing  any  special  attraction  for 
the  ordinary  tourist,  deserve  a  visit  from  all 
who  are  interested  in  colossal  industrial  under- 
takings. The  work  consists  in  the  quarrying 
(for  the  ore  lies  in  almost  inexhaustible  masses 
near  the  surface)  of  iron  pyrites,  containing 
50%  of  sulphur,  and  about  4%  of  copper.  It  is 
shipped  to  England,  France  and  Germany,  for 
the  manufacture  of  sulphuric  acid  and  extrac- 
tion of  copper ;  and,  inasmuch  as  the  demand 
for  the  former  is  necessarily  limited,  immense 
quantities  of  the  ore  are  calcined  on  the  spot 
for  the  copper  alone.  As  the  process  is  carried 
on  in  the  open  every  trace  of  vegetation  for 
miles  round  is  destroyed  by  the  fumes  of  sul- 
phurous acid.  Every  attention  is  shown  to 
visitors,  who  may  find  accommodation  in  seve- 
ral private  houses.  The  Rio  Tinto  Co.  em- 
ploys upwards  of  4000  men,  and  raises  over  a 
million  tons  of  ore  in  the  year.  The  next 
largest  concern  is  the  Tharsis  Co.  (Tarshish 
of  the  ancients),  situated  nearer  to  Palos.  Both 
these  mines  were  worked  by  Phoenicians, 
Romans  and  Moors,  and  have  been  resusci- 
tated by  English  capital.  No  less  a  sum  than 
;63»72o>°oo  was  paid  in  1873  by  the  Rio  Tinto 
Co.  for  its  concession. 


CARTAGENA. 


Province  of  Murcia — (pop.,  1885, 
about  80,000). 

From  Madrid.  By  rail.  Two  trains 
a  day  :  16  hrs.  525  kil. ;  fares,  1st  el., 
Pes.  60.40;  2d  cl.,  46.80.  By  the 
Madrid-Alicante  Bail,  as  far  as  Chin- 
chilla Junction.  Here  the  line  to 
Murcia  and  Cartagena  branches  to  the 
right. 

The  scenery  is  most  uninterest- 
ing. See  for  detail  Murcia,  2d  from 
Madrid.  There  are  also  occasional 
steamers  to  Alicante,  Malaga,  Valencia, 
Almeria,  etc.,  about  three  a  fortnight. 
To  Alicante,  6  hrs.  To  Almeria,  13 
hrs. 

general  Description. — This  port  is 


the  largest  in  Spain  after  that  of  Vigo. 
It  is  the  best  and  securest  along  the 
whole  coast,  sheltered  from  all  danger- 
ous winds,  and  well  protected  by 
nature.  The  best  inn  is  the  Fonda 
Francesca,  but  the  Hotel  de  Roma  and 
the  Hotel  de  Ramos  are  both  fair — 
especially  the  latter.  The  town,  dull 
and  uninteresting,  consists  mainly  of 
a  long  street,  the  Calle  Mayor,  which 
terminates  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitu- 
tion ;  it  is  broad  and  relatively  clean, 
but  presents  little  to  attract  the  travel- 
ler's notice.  Cartagena  was  the  Carth- 
ago Nova,  founded  by  the  Carthaginian 
family  of  the  Barcas,  who  always 
founded  cities  near  tho  sea.     This  port 


104 


CARTAGENA. 


was  the  most  important  the  Cartha- 
ginians possessed  in  Spain,  and  became 
their  great  arsenal  and  general  entrepdt. 
Its  secure  bay  and  situation  facing  the 
Mediterranean,  half-way  between  Gaul 
and  Tingitania,  was  not  overlooked  by 
the  far-sighted  Romans,  who  fortified 
it,  and  called  it  Colonia  Victrix  Julia. 
The  Goths  almost  destroyed  it.  When 
the  navy  of  Spain  was  flourishing  (17th 
century),  Cartagena  contained  upwards 
of  60,000  inhabitants.  Charles  III. 
endeavoured,  but  in  vain,  to  restore  it 
to  its  former  prosperity,  and  during 
the  subsequent  reigns  it  has  gradually 
dwindled  to  but  an  unsatisfactory  con- 
dition ;  but  life  will,  we  trust,  soon 
come  back  and  fill  those  noble  arsenals, 
magnificent  docks,  and  admirable  port, 
where  nothing  is  wanting  save  ships 
and  sailors  ;  articles  not  so  easily  made 
as  the  former. 

Among  the  very  few  sights  is  the 
arsenal,  to  visit  which  an  order  is  neces- 
sary from  the  Comandante  de  Marina. 
The  fortifications,  basins,  barracks, 
hospitals,  rope-walks,  foundries,  are  all 
built  on  a  grand  scale  ;  but  they  are  ne- 
glected and  left  to  decay.  There  are 
some  few  but  interesting  ruins  in  the 
vicinity,  altogether  neglected  by  anti- 
quaries. Trade,  though  checked  lately 
by  the  low  prices  prevailing,  is  in  a 
healthy  state,  and  shows  signs  of  revival. 
The  iron,  copper,  and  lead  mines  in  the 
vicinity  are  actively  worked,  and  many 
vessels  arrive  from  England  laden  with 
coal  to  be  employed  in  them ;  the  copper, 
silver,  and  lead  are  of  excellent  quality, 
and  the  filones  abound.  There  is  a 
small  theatre  and  casino,  into  which 
travellers  are  easily  admitted.  As  a 
residence  the  town  is  most  dull,  and 
there  is  no  society.  To  obtain  a  fine 
view  of  the  town,  port,  and  surrounding 
scenery,  we  advise  travellers  to  ascend 
Las  Galeras,  La  Atalaya,  or  San  Julian. 


The  only  church  is  that  of  Sta.  Maria 
de  Gracia,  the  old  cathedral  of  13th 
century  being  ruinous.  A  permit  to 
visit  the  Arsenal  may  be  obtained  at 
the  Capitania  General,  in  the  Plaza 
de  Sta.  Catalina,  or  at  the  entrance  to 
the  Arsenal,  Plaza  del  Rey  (fee  to 
guide). 

Trade  and  Mines. — The  Commercial 
importance  of  Cartagena  has  been 
greatly  enhanced  of  late  years  by  the 
development  of  the  mining  industries. 
The  principal  exports  are  minerals, 
lead,  and  esparto,  to  the  extent  of 
about  650,000  tons  of  mineral,  60,000 
tons  of  refined  lead,  and  8000  tons  of 
esparto.  The  chief  imports  are  coal  and 
coke,  to  the  amount  of  about  90,000 
tons.  A  steam  tram,  six  trains  daily, 
in  an  hour,  fares  pes.  1.65,  1.10,  runs 
vid  Alumbres,  to  La  Union  and  Los 
Blancos,  the  centre  of  the  mining 
district,  where  is  an  industrial  popula- 
tion of  some  30,000  souls.  The  lead 
is  largely  obtained  in  an  almost  pure 
state.  Of  iron  and  manganiferous  iron 
ores  363,662  tons  were  raised  and  ex- 
ported in  1896.  A  new  trade  has  been 
opened  up  in  magnetic  iron  ore. 

The  climate,  formerly  very  unwhole- 
some, when  the  ague-stricken  inhabit- 
ants used  to  die  'como  chinches,' 
owing  to  the  brackish  water,  the 
emanations  of  the  ill-drained  Abnajar 
(a  lake  formed  by  the  rains,  near  the 
town),  etc.,  has  been  considerably 
modified  and  improved  by  the  com- 
plete drainage  of  this  focus  of  fevers, 
the  waters  of  which  now  flow  into  the 
sea,  and  the  provision  of  an  excellent 
supply  of  water. 

H.B.M.  Vice-Consul,  John  C.  Gray, 
Esa.  ;  U.S.A.  Vice  -  Consul,  Cirilo 
Molina. 

Post  -  Office.  —  Plaza  de  Valarino- 
Togores. 

Telegraph  Office.— Calle  de  Jara. 


105 


CASTILES  (NEW  AND  OLD). 


CastiHa-La-Nueva  and  Castilla-La- 
Vieja,  the  two  largest  provinces  in 
Spain,  have  been  divided  into  the  pro- 
vinces of  Burgos,  pop.  355,000 ;  Log- 
rofto,  pop.  183,000  ;  Soria,  pop. 
159,000;  Segovia,  pop.  151,000;  Avila, 
pop.  176,000 ;  Santander,  pop.  242,000 ; 
Palencia,  pop.  185,000 ;  and  Valladolid, 
pop.  244,000  (forming  part  of  Old  Cas- 
tile), and  Madrid,  pop.  489,000  ;  Gua- 
dalajara, pop.  209,000;  Toledo,  pop. 
343,000,  and  Cuenca,  pop.  240,000 
(New  Castile),  Bumming  2,976,000. 
These  two  great  divisions  are  placed 
under  the  military  jurisdiction  of  the 
Captain-General  of  New  Castile,  who 
resides  at  Madrid,  and  of  that  of  Old 
Castile,  who  resides  at  Valladolid,  and 
are  ecclesiastically  dependent  of  the  sees 
of  Toledo  and  Burgos. 

Historical  Notice. — The  earliest  in- 
habitants were  the  Celtiberi,  Carpetani, 
Oretani,  etc.  The  name  Castile  was 
derived  from  the  numberless  castles 
placed  on  the  frontiers,  and  serving  as 
defences  against  home  and  foreign  ene- 
mies. Costilla  la  Tieja  was  one  of  the 
first  Christian  kingdoms  that  rose  against 
the  invading  infidel.  It  was  ruled  in 
the  10th  century  by  its  own  counts, 
was  united  to  the  kingdom  of  Leon 
in  1035,  separated  from  it  1065  to 
1071,  and  again  from  1157  to  1230. 
It  was  then  finally  joined  to  Leon 
under  Ferdinand  III.,  St.  Ferdinand, 
and  at  the  marriage  of  Isabella  of  Cas- 
tilla  with  Ferdinand  of  Aragon,  all 
these  separate  kingdoms  were  merged 
into  one  great  monarchy,  destined  to 
attract  to  itself  the  whole  of  Spain. 

Rivers,  Mountains,  ete. — The  princi- 
pal mountains  are  the  Sierra  Guadar- 
rama,  to  the  N.E.  of  New  Castile  ;  the 
snow-capped  Somosierra  to  E.  ;  the 
ranges  of  Molina  and  Cuenca,  which 
are  joined    to  those  of  Alcarraz  and 


Murcia  ;  the  Montes  de  Toledo,  whicL 
rise  between  the  Tagus  and  Guadiana  ; 
and  to  the  S.  a  portion  of  the  Sierra 
Morena,  which  divides  it  from  Anda- 
lusia. The  most  important  rivers  are 
the  Ebro,  Duero,  Tagus,  etc.  The 
mountainous  districts  are  picturesque, 
highly  interesting  for  their  botany  and 
geology.  The  rest  of  the  country  is 
composed  of  trackless,  lonely,  wind- 
blown plains,  most  fertile,  though  much 
exposed  to  drought,  and  thinly  peopled. 
The  heat  is  excessive  in  summer,  and 
the  icy  blasts  in  winter  come  sweeping 
down  from  the  lofty  mountains,  checked 
in  their  course  by  neither  forests, 
hedges,  nor  cultivation. 

The  People,  Character,  Dress. — The 
Castilians  are  a  grave,  loyal,  stern, 
trustworthy,  and  manly  race,  silent  and 
proud  ;  poverty,  ignorance,  and  bigotry 
are  their  lot,  but  not  their  work  ;  and 
their  excellent  qualities,  and  even  de- 
fects, might  be  easily  turned  to  good  ac- 
count. They  speak  the  purest  Spanish, 
el  Castellano,  which  Charles  V.  said  was 
the  only  tongue  in  which  man  could 
presume  to  address  the  Divinity.  They 
wear  long  cloaks,  anguarinas,  ami  a 
curiously-shaped  cap  or  montera. 

The  cities  retain  mostly  all  the  cha- 
racteristics of  the  mediaeval  Gotho- 
Castilian  style,  and  abound  in  magnifi- 
cent examples  of  Gothic  and  Byzantine 
churches,  and  of  military  palatial  archi- 
tecture. Andalusia  is  the  land  of  the 
Moor,  but  Castile  is  alone  truly  and 
exclusively  Spanish. 

Routes,  etc. 
The  following  comprises  the  principal  cities  :— 


Madrid  to  Alcala 
de  Henares,  r. 
Guadalajara,  r. 
Siguenza,  r. 
Soria,  r. 
Alfaro,  r. 
Logrono,  r. 
Burgos,  r. 
Valladolid,  r. 


Olmedo,  r. 
Segovia,  r. 
Avila,  r. 
Escorial,  r 
Madrid,  r. 
Toledo,  r. 
Albacete,  r. 
Cuenca,  r. 
Huete,  r. 


106 


OATALUffA. 


We  have  entirely  omitted  such  cities 
as  Aranda,  Lerma,  Buitrago,  Talavera, 
Belmonte,  etc.,  because,  besides  the 
difficulty  of  reaching  them  now,  and 
the  wretched  accommodation,  to  which 


we  can  testify,  their  contents  are  mostly 
indifferent  to  the  general  tourist.  The 
best  season  is  the  spring  and  early  part 
of  summer. 


CATALUNA 


Geographical  and  Administrative 
Division.  —  Cataluna,  a  captaincy- 
general,  el  principado,  as  it  is  often 
called,  has  the  shape  of  a  triangle,  the 
summit  of  which  is  formed  by  the 
Pyrenees  and  the  base  by  the  Mediter- 
ranean. It  has  an  extent  of  140  m.  E. 
to  W.,  and  154  m.  N.  to  S.  The 
population,  which  amounted  to  326, 970 
in  thel5th  century,numbers  now(1898) : 
in  Gerona,  347,000  inhab. ;  Barcelona, 
851,000  ;  Lerida,  390,000  ;  Tarragona, 
387,000  ;  in  all,  1,915,000  souls— these 
four  present  provinces  constituting 
formerly  all  Cataluna.  It  is  a  region 
of  hills  and  valleys,  the  seaboard  ex- 
tending some  389  kil.  from  Cape  Cer- 
vera  to  the  embouchure  of  Cervera,  the 
principal  ports  being  Barcelona,  Tarra- 
gona, Salon,  Rosas,  Palamos,  etc. 

The  People,  Character,  Dress,  etc, — 
The  Catalans  are  the  most  industrious, 
business-like,  enterprising  people  in 
Spain  ;  they  are  the  Scotch  of  this 
country,  as  the  Anrialusians  are  the 
Irish,  and  the  Asturians  the  "Welsh. 
They  are  sober,  laborious,  honest,  en- 
thusiastic for  progress,  proud  of  their 
own,  looking  up  to  France  for  example 
and  competition,  and  down  on  the  sur- 
rounding provinces  with  contempt  and 


pity.  Wherever  there  are  trade,  fabrics, 
enterprise,  there  you  are  sure  to  find 
Catalans  ;  in  England,  in  America,  in 
the  East,  they  have  everywhere,  and  in 
all  ages  and  times,  carried  their  insa- 
tiable love  of  enterprise  and  activity. 
They  are  vehement,  austere,  revengeful, 
and  generally  not  capable  of  great  feel- 
ing or  lasting  friendship,  and  egotism 
seems  to  be  a  pivot  around  which  all 
their  actions  turn.  They  are  besides 
destitute  of  stability  in  their  own  poli- 
tical principles,  and  have  sold  them- 
selves always  to  the  highest  bidder ; 
but  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  in 
their  hearts  and  souls  they  are  neither 
Spaniards  nor  French,  they  are  Cata- 
lans ;  and  in  their  eyes,  there  is  only 
one  Cataluna,  and  Barcelona  is  its  pro- 
phet Their  religion  reaches  supersti- 
tion ;  their  activity  degenerates  into 
feverish  craving  ;  their  love  of  liberty 
has  led  them  to  bloodshed,  excesses, 
and  rapine.  They  hold  the  commerce 
of  Spain  in  their  hands,  and  have  been 
justly  defined,  as  a  province,  the  Spanish 
Lancashire.  Cataluna  has  been  always 
the  centre  of  rebellion,  the  focus  of  re- 
publicanism and  democracy ;  it  is  the 
feeder  of  Spain,  its  stomach,  which  is 
the  centre  and  cause  of  all  disease  in 


CATALUftA. 


107 


the  great  body.     They  are  patient  and 
daring  soldiers,  excellent  sailors,  and 
model  smugglers  and  guerrilleros.    The 
dress  is  plain  and  unpicturesque.     The 
women — las    payesas — who  are  not  a 
handsome  race,  but  strong,  masculine, 
angular,  and  rough  diamonds,  wear  a 
tight  boddice,  short  dress,  and  an  un- 
becoming  handkerchief,    mocado,    on 
their  heads,  which  is    generally  red. 
The  men's  dress  consists  of  a  very  short 
velvet  or  cloth  jacket,  long  loose  dark 
trousers,  which  come  up  very  high,  and 
the  sandal,  espardinya ;  the  head-gear 
is  a  reminiscence  of  their  Carthaginian 
forefathers,  and  is  a  very  long  red  or 
purple  cotton  nightcap-shaped  'gorro,' 
not  unlike  that  worn  by  the  Genoese 
and  Neapolitan  fishermen ;   the   end 
either  hangs  on  one  side,  or  is  doubled 
up  and  brought  over  the  forehead  :  the 
red  predominates.   Indeed,  the  different 
provinces  might  be  characterised   by 
tints ;  red  would  stand  for  Cataluna, 
blue  and  black  for  Andalusia,    light 
green  and  white  for  Valencia,  brown 
for  Asturias,  dark  purple  for  Aragon, 
eto.      The    Catalans,    though    egotis- 
tical,   prosaic,    and   very   keen    after 
money,  are  yet  generous,  and  spend 
fortunes    in    patronising    art,    while 
their   popular  poetry  is   wonderfully 
ethereal   in  style  and  feeling.      The 
language  of  the  country — Catalan — 
is    a    dialect    of    the    Lemosin,     or 
Romance,    spoken    from    the    moun- 
tains of  Auvergne  to  Valencia.      In 
the  13th  and  14th  centuries  it  had 
some    resemblance    to    the    Langue- 
docian  and  Gascon  dialects,  but  has 
since   been   more   influenced   by   the 
Provencal,    which     it     now    greatly 
resembles.      The    literature    consists 
mainly  of  poetry  and  chronicles,  with 
some  good  modern  dramas. 

History. — The  Catalans  are  descend- 
ants of  the  Phoenicians,  Carthaginians, 
and  Greeks,  who  colonised  all  Medi- 


terranean Spain.     It  was  considered, 
from  its  position,  a  very  important  pro- 
vince of  Roman  Spain ;  Tarragona  be- 
came the  capital.   Cataluna  was  divided 
into  different  minor  states — Cerretania, 
Ansetania,     Lacetania,     etc.       When 
Rome  fell,  and  Spain  was  invaded  by 
the  Alani,  Sueves,  etc.,  the  Goths  fixed 
their  first  colonies   here,   and  called 
it  their  own  land,  Gotha-lunia.    When 
the  Moors  invaded  it,  dispossessing  the 
Goths,  the  Franks  crossed  the  Pyrenees, 
were  repulsed,  and  driven  back  to  Nar- 
bonne,  but  mustering  great  numbers, 
came  again  and  took  Barcelona.    The 
Moors  were  defeated,  and  retired,  and 
the   French  conquerors  established  a 
feudal  condado,  or  county,  calling  it 
the  Spanish  Marche,  and  divided  into 
nine  smaller  states.     Wifred,  governor 
under  Charles   the  Bald,   of  France, 
raised  the  standard  of  revolt,  and  be- 
came the  independent  chief  of  the  pros- 
perous and  extensive  condado  of  Bar- 
celona. The  independence  of  the  county 
lasted  from  the  9th  to  the  12th  cen- 
tury.   This  was  the  greatest  period  of 
the  prosperity,  wealth,  and  power  of 
Cataluna.    It  was  then  that  the  cele« 
brated  maritime    expeditions    against 
the  pirates  of  the  Balearic  Islands  and 
Corsica  took  place,  as  well  as  the  war 
with  Majorca  (then  possessed  by  the 
Moors),  which  was  carried  on  by  Ramon 
Berenguer  III.  and  the  Catalan  nobility 
— the  expeditions  against  the  Moors  in 
Spain — the    capture    of   Tortosa — the 
alliances  with  the  puissant  republics 
of  Genoa  and  Pisa,  etc.     By  the  mar- 
riage in  1137  of  Ramon  Berenguer  IV. 
with  Petronila,  daughter  and  heiress  of 
Ramiro    el    Monje,   king    of  Aragon, 
Cataluna  was  merged  in  the  crown  of 
the  latter  country,  and  lost  its  inde- 
pendence.    Annexed  to  Castile  by  the 
marriage  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella, 
Cataluna  no  longer  possessed  the  pros- 
perity and  power  of  ancient  times.    Its 


108 


CATALUffA. 


energies,  spirit  of  trade,  and  independent 
pretensions  were  crippled,  scorned,  and 
put  down  by  the  haughty  courtier- 
warriors  of  Castilla.  Rebellion,  the 
well-known  sublevaciones,  motines,  so- 
matenes,  pronunciamientos,  and  other 
suchlike  outbursts,  with  which  Catalan 
political  vocabularies  abound,  began 
now  never  to  cease.  In  1640  they 
threw  off  the  yoke  of  Philip  IV".,  and 
offered  their  allegiance  to  Louis  XIII., 
*  qui  ne  se  fit  pas  prier, '  but  hastened  to 
proclaim  himself  Count  of  Barcelona. 
Put  down  in  1652,  the  rebellion  was 
renewed  in  1689,  when  they  resisted 
Charles  II.,  but  were  obliged  to  sur- 
render to  the  French  army  under  the 
orders  of  Due  de  Venddme.  In  the  war 
of  succession  they  sided  with  Austria, 
and  in  1714  Philip  V.  bombarded  Barce- 
lona, and  destroyed  one-third  of  it.  But 
their  want  of  success  has  not  deterred 
them  from  indulging  to  this  day  in  civil 
wars  and  revolutions.  They  are  per- 
petual grumblers,  and  have  taken  to 
meetings,  associations,  political  discus- 
sions, representaciones  to  Government 
and  the  Queen,  couched  often  in  ener- 
getic terms,  etc.  Free  trade  and  Pro- 
tection are  here  at  loggerheads,  and  the 
tariff  and  its  grievances  call  forth  the 
eloquence  of  its  deputies  at  the  Cortes, 
and  the  diatribes  of  its  press-writers  at 
home.  Cataluna  is  with  all  this  very 
prosperous,  her  manufactures  increas- 
ing, and  her  trade  thriving,  especially 
with  France. 

Mines,  AgricuUv/re,  etc. — Cataluna 
abounds  in  mines,  though  they  are  of 
no  very  great  importance.  Salt  is  found 
in  great  quantities  at  Gordona  and 
Gerri,  lead  at  Falset,  lead  and  copper 
at  Bassagoda,  La  Bisbal,  Sellera,  Vi- 
dresas ;  tin,  zinc,  and  cobalt  are  more 
scarce ;  coal  is  found  at  Ripoll  and 
San  Juan  de  las  Abadesas ;  and  the 
marbles  of  Tortosa  and  Tarragona  are 
excellent,  and  in  great  repute. 


There  are  several  excellent  and  bene- 
ficial mineral  springs  called  Caldas  (cal* 
das,  hot),  such  as  the  Caldas  de  Mont- 
buy,  Caldas  d'Estrach,  de  Malavella, 
the  sulphurous  waters  of  La  Puda, 
over  the  Llobregat,  and  of  N.  Sra.  de 
Caldas.  Linen,  blondes,  and  lace  are 
extensively  produced,  and  besides  paper- 
manufactures,  soaps,  spirits,  etc.,  cot- 
ton-spinning has  of  late  years  acquired 
great  importance,  and  mills  are  being 
established  everywhere.  The  principal 
centres  are  Barcelona,  Sabadell,  Reus, 
etc.  Agriculture  is  far  from  being 
neglected ;  and  Catalan  energy  has 
transformed  the  arid  ravined  soil  .into 
gardens  and  orchards,  the  example 
being  given  by  the  wealthy  proprie- 
tors, who,  un-Spanish-like,  love  to 
dwell  on  their  estates,  where  they 
build  handsome  houses,  called  torres. 
The  plains  of  the  Ampurdan,  the 
country  about  Gerona,  Vich,  Cerdana, 
Urgel,  Tarragona,  the  Mediterranean 
board,  are  celebrated  for  the  fertility 
of  the  soil,  their  olives,  vines,  and  pas- 
tures. Wine  of  infinite  varieties  and 
tastes  is  likewise  produced,  among 
which  we  may  name  the  delicious 
malvasia  de  Sitjes,  those  of  Allera, 
Cullera,  Trana,  Taya,  the  heady  Beni- 
carlo,  sent  to  France  to  flavour  and 
dar  cuerpo  to  the  spiritless  acid  piquette, 
Priorato  (near  Tarragona),  etc.  The 
rich  red  common  wine,  when  matured 
by  age,  and  then  called  rancio,  is  ex- 
cellent, especially  with  water.  The 
principal  rivers  are,  the  Fluvia,  Ter 
Ebro,  Llobregat,  Francoli,  and  Cerria, 
most  emptying  themselves  into  the 
Mediterranean. 

The  recent  revival  of  Art  and  Litera- 
ture in  Cataluna  is  remarkable.  The 
province  has  produced  a  succession  of 
good  names — the  painters  Fortuny  and 
Viladomat,  the  writers  Balmes,  Bo- 
farull  y  Balaguer,  Soler,  Verdaguer,  etc. 

Routes. — The   cities   have  a  very 


CATALUNA. 


109 


distinct  character  of  their  own,  though 
mostly  modernised.  The  monuments 
belong  to  the  worst  period  of  art,  or, 
if  ancient,  have  been  sadly  disfigured 
or  neglected.  This  is  speaking  in 
a  general  sense,  for  there  are  some 
and  very  important  exceptions,  such 
as  the  cathedral  and  cloisters  of  Tarra- 
gona, the  ruinous  but  interesting  Po- 
blet,  Cucufate  del  Valles,  cathedrals  of 
Barcelona,  Gerona,  Lerida,  etc.  These 
are  as  interesting  as  anything  in  the 
Peninsula,  though  some  of  them,  as 
Poblet  and  Cucufate,  lie  so  far  out  of 
the  broad  road  that  they  are  practically 
beyond  the  reach  of  the  ordinary,  hurried 
tourist.  The  best  season  to  travel  in 
Cataluiia  is  the  spring  and  autumn, 
and  the  mountainous  districts  in  the 
summer.  Barcelona  is  a  good  winter 
quarter  for  invalids. 


Routes. 


Perpignan  to  Figue- 
ras,  r. 

Gerona,  r. 

Tortosa,  r.,  indiffer- 
ent 


Reus,  r. 
Mataro,  r. 
Barcelona,  r. 
Tarragona,  r. 
Manresa.  r. 


Routes 
Cervera,  r. 
Solsona,  d. 
Urgel,  rid.  d. 
French       Pyrenees, 

rid.  d.  or  walk. 
PuigcerdA,    rid.    or 

walk. 
Montblanch,  r. 


Continued. 
Poblet,  d.  r. 
L£rida,  r. 

Camprodon,dil.  and  r. 
Olot,  r. 
Ripoll,  r. 
Vich,  r. 
Granollers,  r. 
Barcelona,  r. 


And  a  shorter,  from  Barcelona  to  Tarragona 
and  Reus,  then  to  LeVida  and  Manresa,  and 
Monserrat  (from  stat.  of),  in  a  week's  time. 

Books  of  Reference, — 1.  '  Los  Condes 
de  Barcelona  vindicados,'  by  the 
learned  Bofarull ;  Barcelona,  1836,  2 
4to  vols.     Highly  important.. 

2.  '  Recuerdos  y  Bellezas  de  Espana.' 
The  portion  relating  to  Cataluiia  has 
been  ably  written  by  Messrs.  Piferrer 
and  Pi  y  Margall. 

3.  '  Viage  literario  &  las  Iglesias  de 
Espana,'  by  Villaneuva.  Vols.  5  to  21 
relate  to  the  churches  and  ecclesiastical 
history  of  Cataluiia. 

4.  '  Espana  Sagrada,'  xxiv.,  Parte  i.2. 
'  Historia  de  Cataluiia,'  by  D.  Victor 

Balaguer,  1887-88;  'Las  Ruinas  de 
Poblet,'  Madrid,  1886.  'Historia  del 
Ampurdan/  by  D.  Jose*  Pella  y  Forgas 
(Illustrated),  Barcelona.  1888. 


For  the  language  see  the  article  '  Spain,'  in  the  Encyclo- 
paedia JBritannica,  with  the  references  there  given ;  also 
the  article  in  Chambers's  Encyclopaedict, 


110 


CORDOVA 


Capital  of  province  of  same  name, 
bishopric,  commandancia  general ;  pop. 
56,000  (1897). 

Communications. — 1.  From  Mad- 
rid, By  rail  throughout,  distance,  442 
kil.  Time,  14  hrs.;  fares,  1st  cl.,  Pes. 
50.85  ;  2d  cl.,  39.40  ;  restaurants,  Al- 
cazar and  Espeluy.  Fast  exp. ,  Monday, 
Wednesday,  and  Friday  evenings. 

Description  of  Route. — Between  Alca- 
zar and  Cordova  the  country  is  mostly 
uninteresting — treeless,  stony,  wind- 
blown, are  indeed  the  endless  '  Campos 
de  la  Mancha,'  a  name,  however,  very 
familiar  to  all  readers  as  being  so  closely 
associated  with  Cervantes'  immortal 
hero,  El  Hidalgo  Don  Quixote  de  la 
Mancha.  Argamasilla  de  Alba,  which 
is  crossed  soon  after  leaving  Alcazar,  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  place  where 
Cervantes,  thrown  into  its  prison  by 
the  irascible  debtors  whose  rents  he  had 
been  sent  to  collect,  began  to  write  his 
novel,  making  his  hero  a  native  of  the 
village  which  had  so  ill  treated  him.  No 
one  doubts  here  of  the  real  existence  of 
the  gallant  old  knight,  and  there  are 
several  families  who  claim  descent  from 
that  wisest  of  fools,  and  that  shrewdest 
of  madmen.  One  of  the  best  and  most 
recent  editions  has  been  printed  in  that 
very  prison,  the  former  town  jail.  Short- 
ly after  we  leave  this  station  are  seen, 
rising  on  our  right,  the  foremost  alturas 
of  Sierra  Morena.  Manzanares. — Tra- 
vellers to  Lisbon  change  carriages. 
Valdepenas  (Inn  :  Posada  del  Medio- 
dia),  11,200  thirsty  souls,  who  almost 
live  upon  the  excellent  but  improvable 
wine  of  that  name — with  the  Rioja  the 
best  Spanish  red  wine.  It  originated 
with  some  vines  brought  from  Burgundy, 
and  which  thrive  in  that  flinty  tract  of 
country  (branch  line  to  Calzada  de 


Calatrava).  Venta  de  Gdrdenas. — This 
name  is  also  familiar  to  readers  of  Don 
Quixote  as  being  that  of  the  venta  to 
which  Cardenio,  the  curate,  and  Doro- 
tea  took  the  penitent  knight  on  his 
giving  up  his  solitary  life.  Vadollano 
(branch  to  Linares),  the  celebrated  lead 
mines,  the  property  ofEnglish,  French, 
German,  and  Spanish  companies.  Es- 
peluy (good  fonda), branch  for  Jaen.  We 

then  reach-4ndtt/ar,aboutl0,000  inhab., 
sombre,  backward,  and  unwholesome. 

In  its  church  a  fine  Sto.  Sepulcro  in 
relief ;  around  are  very  extensive  olive- 
grounds,  and  close  by  flows  the  Guadal- 
quivir. The  Convention  of  Batten, 
July  23,  1808,  was  signed  here.  After 
crossing  the  bridge,  one  enters  the  pro- 
vince of  Cordova.  Not  far  from  Pedro 
Abad  is  El  Carpio,  with  a  Moorish  tower, 
built  in  1325.  Close  to  Alcolea  Stat  is 
a  very  fine  black  marble  bridge  of  20 
arches.  The  Guadalquivir  to  the  left. 
Cordova  soon  appears,  in  not  a  striking 
situation.  To  N.W.  of  the  valley  is  the 
large  conical  rock  and  castle  of  Almo- 
dovar,  one  of  Don  Pedro's  fortresses, 
where  he  kept  his  treasures,  sometimes 
amounting  to  70  million  ducats. 

Now  the  Guadalbarbo  is  crossed,  tile 
orange  and  the  palm  mingle  with  the 
dusty  ungainly  olive,  and  Cordoba  is 
reached. 

2.  From  Seville  (see  Seville),  3  J  hrs. 
from  Cadiz ;  by  rail  tlirough  Seville, 
9  hrs.  ;  both  by  rail  direct 

3.  From  Granada.  Granada  by  Loja, 
Antequerato  Bobadilla,  by  rail,  about 
4  hrs.  ;  at  latter  station  take  up  the 
Malaga  to  Cordova  train,  6  hrs.  For 
description  of  route,  see  Granada  from 
Cordova. 

4.  From  or  to  Almaden  mines.  By 
rail  vid  Almorchon,  or  riding,  18  leagues. 


X 


CORDOVA. 


Ill 


Cordova  to  Vlllaharta 
Villanueva  del  Duque 
Los  Pedroches 
Santa  Eufemia 
Almaden 


Leagues. 

6 

5 

2 
2 

3 
x8 


5.  From  Malaga.  By  rail  direct ; 
distance,  195  kil. ;  time,  6  hrs.  (mail 
train,  correo)  ;  fares,  1st  cl.,  Pes.  24.45 ; 
2d  cl.,  Pes.  18.35.  For  description  of 
route,  see  Malaga  from  Cordova. 

6.  From  Jaen.  By  branch  line  to 
Menjibar  or  Espeluy,  where  change 
into  Madrid  train.  Two  trains  per 
day.  Distance  from  Jaen  to  Menjibar, 
33  kil.  Time,  about  1  hr.  A  continua- 
tion of  the  Jaen  branch  to  Granada 
has  been  long  projected.  In  the  mean- 
time a  dil  runs  daily  in  about  8  hrs. 

Hotels. — Fonda  Suiza;  good,   but 

noisy.  Prices  from  pes.  12£.  Ask  for 
the  interpreter,  who  knows  Cordova 
well.  Fonda  de  Oriente,  Fonda  Espan- 
ola,  both  fair.;  prices  from  *7  pes. 
upwards.  One  or  two  fair  Casas  de 
Huespedes. 

Confectioner. — Good  shop  opposite 
the  Suiza.  Ask  for  orange  flower 
marmalade. 

Carriages  may  be  hired  at  the  hotels 
for  25  P.  a  day,  and  12fc  P.  half  the  day, 
but  are  cheaper  if  hired  on  the  Plaza, 
and  as  good. 

Casino  and  Library. — A  good  club. 
Strangers  admitted  for  a  fortnight 
upon  member's  introduction.  French 
and  Spanish  papers.  The  Biblioteca 
Provincial  is  small  (8000  vols.),  but 
worth  a  visit.  Some  good  MSS. 
Admittance  free. 

Post  Office. — Plazuela  de  Seneca. 

Cafes. — Del  Gran  Capitan,  on  the 
favourite  promenade  of  same  name ; 
Cafe  Colon  ;  Caft  Nuevo. 

H.B.M.  Vice-Consul.— Richard  Eshott 

Carr,  Esq. 

Protestant  chapel  and  school  {Spanish). 

N.B. — Those  desirous  of  visiting 
an  olive  farmhouse,  etc.,  will  do  well 


to  go  to  Bujalance,  Cabra,  Montoro, 
or  Aguilar.  For  details  of  the  pro- 
ceedings, etc.,  see  Gen.  Inf. :  Agri- 
culture. 

Climat9. — Owing  to  the  low  and 
somewhat  sunk  situation  of  the  city  in 
a  valley,  the  utter  want  of  trees,  the 
scanty  irrigation,  etc.,  the  heat  in  sum- 
mer is  very  great — indeed  almost  insup- 
portable— and  the  wealthy  inhabitants 
migrate  northwards,  or  to  the  seaside 
to  veranear.  The  climate  is,  however, 
wholesome,  and  the  spring  and  autumn 
are  delightful.  The  most  common  ill- 
nesses are  catarrh,  intermittent  fevers, 
inflammatory  fevers,  and  pulmonics. 
The  average  temperature  is — 

R. 


In  spring 

• 

• 

• 

•     15' 

In  summer 

■ 

• 

• 

.       21° 

In  autumn 

• 

• 

• 

.     14" 

In  winter 

• 

• 

• 

.       5°  to  6 

The  thermometer  has  never  been  known 
to  rise  above  33°  to  34°  in  summer,  or 
to  fall  below  3°  under  zero.  As  to 
wind,  it  is  exposed  to  the  E.  wind. 
The  Sierra,  extending  from  E.  to  W., 
screens  the  town  a  good  deal  from  the 
northern  blast ;  the  most  prevalent 
are  E.,  S.W.,  W.,  N.W.  Mortality  is 
high  ;  great  age  being  seldom  reached. 
The  climate  has  changed  considerably 
since  the  time  of  the  Moors,  when  Cor- 
dova and  its  districts  were  held  to  be  a 
perfect  paradise  upon  earth,  of  which 
its  black-eyed  women  were  the  houris. 
Cordova  is  situated  37°  42'  N.  lai, 
4°  45'  W.  long. 

General  Description.  —  Cordova, 
once  the  centre  of  European  civilisation, 
the  successful  rival  of  Baghdad  and  Da- 
mascus, the  seat  of  learning  and  reposi- 
tory of  arts,  sank  long  ago  into  a  third- 
rate  provincial  city,  backward,  dull, 
ill-provided,  depopulated  and  silent — a 
city  of  the  dead.  The  very  labourer, 
forgetful  of  the  golden  rules  practically 
laid  down  by  the  industrious  Moor  for 


112 


CORDOVA. 


converting  wastes  into  gardens  and  or- 
chards, looks  sluggishly  on  his  treeless, 
waterless,  parched  up  valley,  confident 
that  what  little  seed  falls  from  his  lazy 
hands  will  ripen  under  the  generous  sun 
into  an  abundant  crop.  Thus  it  is  that 
the  extent  of  the  district  (Termino), 
being  184,238  fanegas  (Gen.  Inf.)  of  land, 
yields  only  about  £205, 000  yearly.  The 
antipathy  to  trees  is  shown  by  the  fact 
that  out  of  the  above  extent  they  cover 
a  surface  of  only  about  30,000  fanegas  ! 
In  the  16th  century,  the  district  of 
Sta.  Clara  yielded  half-a-million  fanegas 
of  corn  a-year ;  and  the  silk,  once  a 
source  of  wealth  to  the  khalifate,  is  no 
longer  produced. 

The  celebrated  Cordovan  breed  of 
horses,  called  Oel-mef  ki,  and  worthy  of 
the  Prophet's  beautiful  description  of  a 
horse  in  the  Koran,  have  also  degene- 
rated ;  and  though  they  are  still  elegant, 
swift-footed,  shining  with  lustrous  hair 
and  beautiful  tail  and  mane,  yet  their 
size,  high  legs,  thick  '  acarnerada '  head 
and  neck,  bespeak  neglect  and  sad  cros- 
sings. 

The  city,  once  the  abode  of  the  flower 
of  Andalusian  nobility,  is  inhabited 
chiefly  by  the  administradores  of  the 
absentee  senorio,  their  '  solares '  are  de- 
sert and  wretched,  the  streets  ill  paved 
though  clean,  and  the  whitewashed 
houses,  unimportant,  low,  and  denuded 
of  all  art  and  meaning,  either  past  or 
present. 

There  are  now  but  few  and  fast- 
fading  vestiges  of  the  glorious  Moslem 
dominion.  Indeed,  artists  and  poets 
will  feel  here  as  elsewhere  that  their 
progress  through  Spain  is,  as  it  were, 
little  else  than  following  the  long  funeral 
of  that  Eastern  genius  that  left  no  heirs 
behind  save  such  like  cities  as  this  one, 
that  sit  in  widowhood  pointing  to  some 
great  monument  as  an  eloquent  record 
of  the  past. 

Bat,  as  Victor  Hugo  justly  remarks, 


Cordoiie  aux  maisons  vieillcs 
A  sa  mosqude  oii  I'ceil  se  perd  dans  les  iner- 
veilles ; 

and  that  magnificent  edifice — a  town  in 
itself— with  its  many  streets  formed  by 
marble  pillars,  like  alleys  of  trees,  com- 
pensates for  the  absent  life  from  the 
body,  whose  limy,  white,  and  calcined 
skeleton  lies  before  us.  For  the  passing 
tourist  who  is  busy  doing  Spain,  a  few 
hours  will  suffice ;  but  the  artist,  the 
antiquary,  the  lover  of  the  beautiful,  of 
the  poetry  and  music  infused  in  stones, 
must  linger  more,  and  visit  the  mosque 
oftentimes  and  at  various  hours  of  the 
day.  The  environs,  valley,  and  sierra 
teem  with  magnificent  fruit  of  excep- 
tional size  and  exquisite  flavour,  abound 
with  game — the  boar,  deer,  and  even 
lynx  ;  and  the  botanist  will  meet  with 
a  very  extensive  flora,  comprising  up- 
wards of  1500  sorts  of  plants,  many  of 
which  will  be  new  to  him  and  deserve 
investigation. 

Cordova  will  appear  most  Oriental  to 
the  traveller  coming  from  the  North, 
and  who  has  not  seen  Seville,  Granada, 
etc.,  and  has,  at  all  events,  a  most  un- 
European  character  about  its  streets, 
narrow  and  winding,  its  flat-roofed 
houses,  the  stately  palm  waving  in  the 
silent  air  from  behind  a  garden  wall, 
over  which  enormous  oranges,  citrons, 
and  limas  cluster  and  fall  like  golden 
balls.  The  appearance  and  colouring 
of  the  suburbs  and  sierra  by  evening 
time  will  tempt  many  a  painter  and 
poet  besides  Roberts  and  Southey. 

History.— Cordova,  whose  name,  Bo- 
chart  supposes,  is  derived  from  the 
Syrian  coteb,  'oil-press,'  and,  accord- 
ing to  Conde,  Carta-tuba,  an  '  import- 
ant city, '  was  but  little  known  under  the 
Phoenicians.  Silius  Italicus  mentions  it 
in  his  poem  on  the  second  Punic  "War, 
'  Nee  decus  auriferse  cessavit  Corduba 
terris,'  when  Hannibal  disposed  of 
troops  furnished  by  that  city.     Marcus 


CORDOVA — CATHEDRAL. 


113 


first,  206  b.  c,  and  M.  Marcellus  after, 
gave   it  ~  importance,   and    the    latter 
founded  here  the  first  Roman  colony, 
which  was  called  Patricia,  from  the 
number  of  patrician  families  that  came 
from  Rome  and  established  here  their 
home.     Cordova  subsequently  became 
the  capital  of  Ulterior  Spain,  and  sub- 
sequently of  Baetica.      It  sided  with 
Pompey,  which  opinion  cost  the  lives  of 
28,000  of  its  inhabitants,  who  were  put 
to  death  by  Csesar,  after  his  victory  of 
Munda.     Under  the  Goths  the  city  lost 
its  importance,  to  regain  it,  and  reach 
its  highest  acme,  when  it  became  Moor- 
ish.   It  was  taken  shortly  after  the  battle 
of  the  Guadelete  by  Mugueith  El  Rumi, 
who,  through  the  assistance  of  the  Jews 
inside,  obtained  possession  of  it,  and 
entrusted  part  of  its  garrison  to  the  sons 
of  Israel,  ever  ready  to  open  the  doors 
to  let  in  the  enemy  and  divide  the  spoils. 
Subject  at  first  to  the   khalifate    of 
Damascus,  Cordova  about  756  declared 
itself  independent,  and  became  the  capi- 
tal of  the  Moorish  Empire  of  Spain, 
under  the  Ummey&h  Abdu-r-rh&man. 
Under  the  princes  of  this  dynasty,  this 
city  (10th  century)  contained  300,000 
inhabitants   (including    the  suburbs), 
600  mosques,  50  hospitals,  800  public 
schools,   900  baths,   and  600  inns  ;  a 
library  of  600,000  volumes,  besides  70 
private  ones  in  the  rest  of  the  kingdom. 
The  revenue  amounted  to  six  millions 
sterling.     Discord  now  began  to  weaken 
the  extensive  kingdom  ;   the  factions 
among  the  sheiks,  aided  by  the  progress 
of  the  Christians,  soon  put  an  end  to 
the  prosperity  of  the  kingdom,  and  on 
June  30,  1235,  St.  Ferdinand  entered 
the  city.     Ever  since  that  time,  and 
notwithstanding  the  many  privileges 
granted  to  its  inhabitants  and  the  no- 
bility that  resided  here,  Cordova  never 
recovered  even  the  shadow  of  its  former 
prosperity.      In  the  17th  century  the 
population  did  not  reach  70,000,  and 


has  now  dwindled  to  little  more  than 
50,000. 

Eminent  Natives.—  Cordova,  the  abode 
and  cradle  of  many  of  the  noblest 
Spanish  houses,  *  la  poblacion  de  Europa 
de  mas  limpia  y  apurada  nobleza,'  as 
Gonzalo  de  Cespedes  has  it,  has  been 
the  birthplace  of  several  great  writers, 
such  as  Seneca  (6  A. a),  the  master  of 
Nero ;  the  stoic  philosopher  Lucan  (39 
A.O.),  the  author  of  '  Pharsalia  ;'  Aver- 
roes  (12th  century),  the  erudite  trans- 
lator of  Aristotle  ;  Moses  Maimonides 
(1139),  the  rabbi ;  Juan  de  Mena  (1412), 
the  author  of  'El  Laberinto ;'  Sepul- 
veda,  Gongora,  Cespedes,  A.  de  Morales, 
etc. 

The  French,  under  Dupont,  June 
1808,  entered  the  unresisting  city, 
which  they  sacked,  murdering  the  in- 
habitants in  cold  blood.  The  plunder, 
according  to  Maldonado,  exceeded 
£100,000,  of  which  £25,000  alone  were 
found  among  Dupont's  luggage. 

Sights.— The  cathedral  (or  mosque), 
Alcazar,  El  Triunfo,  churches,  minor 
sights,  and  the  environs. 

Cathedral,  or  Mosque:  its  His- 
tory.—On  entering  the  city,  the  Moors, 
as  was  always  the  case,  assured  to  the 
Christians  the  liberty  of  their  religion, 
and  by  treaty  allowed  them  the  use  of 
their  cathedral,  dedicated  to  San  Vi- 
cente, built  on  the  site  of  a  temple  of 
Janus.  All  the  other  churches  were 
destroyed  but  this  one,  which  was  ex- 
tant in  745,  as  the  author  of  the  Akhbar 
Madjmona  asserts  most  formally. 

But  the  augmentation  of  population 
which  soon  arose  obliged  the  Moors  to 
adopt  here  the  plan  already  followed  at 
Damascus  and  Emesia,  and  half  the 
cathedral  was  wrested  from  them  and 
converted  into  a  mosque,  just  as  half 
their  mosque  was,  centuries  after,  con- 
verted into  a  Christian  church.  In  784 
Abdu-r-rh&man  I.  insisted  on  obtaining 


114 


CORDOVA —  CATHEDRAL. 


the  other  half,  and  a  transaction  ensued 
by  which  the  Christians  were  allowed 
to  rebuild  all  their  former  churches, 
and  received  for  their  cathedral  the  sum 
of  100,000  dinars  (£40,000,  but  equal 
now  to  £440,000).      That  prince  had 
determined,  from  political  as  well  as 
religious  motives,  to  build  a  magnifi- 
cent mosque  on  the  plans  of  that  of 
Damascus,  to  exceed  the  then  new  one 
of  Bagdad  in  splendour  and  extent, 
and  comparable  only  to  the  Acksah  of 
Jerusalem.     It  was  to  be  the  Mecca  of 
the  West,  and  to  be  called  the  Zeca,  or 
House  of  Purification,  and  pilgrimages 
to  its  wondrous  Mih-rab  were  to  be 
considered  equivalent  to  those  made  to 
the  CaAba  of  the  Prophet.     The  khalif 
in  person  designed  the  edifice,  gave  up 
for  its  erection  a  large  portion  of  his 
revenue,  and  is  said  to  have  worked  at 
it  himself  for  a  few  hours  every  day. 

It  was  begun  in  786,  and  the  follow- 
ing year,  on  the  untimely  death  of  the 
founder,  it  was  already  much  advanced. 
Hashem  or  Hixem,  his  son,  continued 
it  on  the  same  plans,  and  with  such  ac- 
tivity that  it  was  completed  in  796 — 
that  is,  ten  years  after  the  first  stone 
was  laid.  At  the  death  of  the  founder 
100,000  gold  doblas  had  already  been 
spent.  Abdu-r-rhaman  III.  erected  the 
fountains  and  its  most  elegant  minaret. 
The  mosque  now  consisted  of  eleven 
naves,  642  ft.  long  by  293  ft.  wide.  Al 
Massour,  the  hadjeb  of  Hashem  II., 
ordered  eight  more  naves  to  be  added, 
and  erected  the  chapel  where  the  Imans 
assembled,  now  called  Capilla  de  Villa- 
viciosa. 

On  entering  the  captured  city,  St 
Ferdinand  had  the  mosque  purified  and 
dedicated  to  the  Virgin.  Several  chapels, 
altars,  sacristies,  etc.,  were  now  added, 
and  about  July  1521  the  transept  and 
choir  were  begun ;  but  when  Charles  V., 
who  had  allowed  these  works  to  be 
made,  came  to  Cordova  in  1526,  and 


saw  what  had  taken  place,  he  exclaimed 
indignantly  :  *  I  was  not  aware  of  this  j 
for  had  I  known  you  intended  to  touch 
the  ancient  portion,  1  would  not  have 
permitted  it  You  have  built  here 
what  can  be  built  anywhere  else,  but 
you  have  destroyed  what  was  unique  in 
the  world/  Hernan  Ruiz,  on  Septem- 
ber 7,  1523,  had  begun  the  works ;  the 
elegant  alminar  or  belfry,  built  by  Ab- 
du-r-rhaman, and  which  had  also  been 
disfigured  by  Hernan  Ruiz,  fell  to  the 
ground  and  was  replaced  by  the  present 
belfry. 

Its  Style  and  Proportions.  —  The 
Mosque  of  Cordova  may  be  considered 
as  the  most  perfect  specimen  extant,  or 
ever  erected,  of  the  religious  architec- 
ture of  the  Moors  of  Spain.  Indeed,  it 
is  generally  thought  to  be  *  the  finest 
type  in  Europe  of  the  true  temple  of 
Islam  ;'  and  as  the  result  and  expres- 
sion of  one  age,  one  plan,  one  idea,  the 
consequent  unity  of  design  is  evident. 
In  shape  it  is  the  Basilica,  adapted  to 
the  Moslem  worship.  Its  characteris- 
tics are  :  vastness,  originality,  great 
simplicity  in  the  distribution,  solidity 
severe  and  massive,  great  elegance  in 
the  curves  and  profiles,  a  happy  com- 
bination of  lines  producing  vistas.  What 
this  edifice  must  have  been  in  its  palmy 
days,  when  its  roof  was  higher  and  glis- 
tening with  gilding  and  vivid  colours, 
and  thousands  of  gold  and  silver  lamps ; 
when  its  walls  were  worked  like  lace, 
and  looked  like  Cashmere  shawls  illu- 
minated from  behind,  and  its  arches  like 
so  many  gigantic  bows,  studded  with 
emeralds  and  rubies,  resting  on  mosaic 
trunks  of  porphyry,  jasper,  and  other 
precious  marbles,  may  be  imagined ; 
but  now  whitewash  has  obliterated  the 
past  magnificence,  and  ignorance  and 
neglect  have  done  the  rest. 

The  area  is  642  ft.  long  N.  to  S.,  by 
462  ft.  wide,  E.  to  W.  (this  being  the 
last  measurement  made  in  1811). 


CORDOVA — CATHEDRAL. 


115 


Exterior. — The  enclosing  walls  are 
most  picturesque,  and  preserve  all  their 
Moorish  character.  They  are  in  tapia, 
averaging  from  30  to  60  ft  in  height, 
and  6  ft  in  thickness,  and  strengthened 
here  and  there  by  square  buttress  towers. 
In  the  S.  wall,  which,  by  the  declivity 
of  the  site,  reached  a  great  height,  were 
built  as  many  as  nineteen  towers,  their 
whole  number  amounting  to  forty-eight 
towers,  of  which  most  remain.  There 
were  sixteen  entrances,  and  twenty-one 
interior  doors.  The  external  ones  were 
generally  square,  with  horseshoe  arches, 
and  very  richly  decorated.  The  boul- 
ders, stones,  eillones,  of  which  the  walls 
and  great  part  of  the  towers  are  built, 
were  of  the  size  used  by  the  Romans, 
4  ft.  long  and  2  ft.  wide.  The  almenas 
(buttresses  indented)  crowning  the 
walls  and  concealing  the  roof  are  about 
3  ft.  high,  and  are  indented  and  trian- 
gular, except  here  and  there  on  the 
towers,  where  they  assume  an  unfinished 
large  flower- vase  form.  Half  of  those 
towards  the  patio  have  the  shape  of  a 
fleur-de-lys,  but  they  are  modern ;  whilst 
the  former  are  of  Persian  origin,  with- 
out models  in  Greece  or  Italy.  The 
Court  of  Oranges,  Puerta  del  Perdon, 
and  cistern  are  most  Moorish.  All  the 
former  ingresses  are  now  blocked  up  and 
closed  save  one.  Observe  those  on  the 
E.  side,  with  their  rich  spandrils,  pillar- 
ets,  and  agimeces — Puerta  del  Perdon  is 
the  largest  and  most  beautiful.  These 
entrances,  very  common  in  Spanish 
cathedrals,  were  so  called  from  the  in- 
dulgences granted  to  those  who  passed 
under  them.  On  the  sides  of  it  are  the 
coats  of  arms  of  Castile  and  Leon,  and 
the  inscription  around  it  is  : 

'  on  the  2nd  day  of  the  month 
of  March,  of  the  era  of  Cesar, 
HlS  (1377  a.c.  ),  IN  the  reign  of  the 
Most  High  and  Puissant  Don  En- 
rique, King  of  Castile.' 


The  doors  themselves  are  curiously  orna- 
mented with  bronze  artesonillos,  form- 
ing different  patterns,  and  in  Gothic 
letters  the  word  *  Deus,'  and  in  Arabic 
characters,  *  The  Empire  belongs  to  God  : 
all  is  His. '  In  the  1 6th  century  several 
fresco  paintings  were  placed  over  this 
portal,  but  they  were  defaced,  and 
wretched  ones  put  up  in  the  17th  and 
18  th  centuries. 

Court  of  Oranges.— This  patio,  430  ft 
by  210  ft.,  is  divided  into  three  cuadros 
or  quarters  ;  in  the  centre  of  each  is  a 
fountain.  There  were  always  trees  in 
it,  especially  palms  and  cypresses,  many 
of  which  were  destroyed  in  a  hurricane 
(1822.)  Most  of  the  present  orange- 
trees  date  16th  century.  At  each  end, 
except  the  S.,  of  this  court  is  a  colon- 
nade of  marble  pillars,  supporting  cir- 
cular arches.  They  date  from  after  the 
capture  of  Cordova  by  the  Christians. 
The  cistern,  used  for  ablutions,  was  put 
up  in  945  by  Abdu-r-rh&man,  and  the 
court  is  the  work  of  Said  Ben  Ayub,  937. 
On  each  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  ca- 
thedral is  a  Roman  military  column, 
found  in  the  mosque  in  1532,  with  an 
inscription  stating  the  distance  (114m.) 
to  Cadiz  from  the  Temple  of  Janus, 
which  stood  on  this  site. 

The  Belfry. — The  former  Muezzin 
tower,  built  by  the  Khalif  Abdu-r-rha- 
man  III.  on  the  site  of  a  still  earlier 
one,  was  modernised  by  the  Christians, 
and  then  thrown  down  by  a  storm,  and 
the  present  bastard  insignificant  struc- 
ture erected  in  1589  by  Hernan  Ruiz, 
crowned  by  a  gilt  statue  of  St.  Rafael. 

Interior. — The  first  impression  is  that 
of  bewilderment  and  astonishment,  pro- 
duced by  the  interminable  and  seem- 
ingly confused  mazes  of  pillars,  compared 
by  a  French  writer  to  a  roofed-in  forest. 
The  roof  is  35  ft.  high  ;  the  cupolas  are 
modern,  and  put  up  in  1713.  The 
Moorish  roof  was  flat,  the  beams  appa 
rent,  painted  and  gilt,  and  made  of  alerce 


116 


CORDOVA — CATHEDRAL. 


(which  is  the  Thus  articiUata  or  Arbor 
vita,  a  wood  considered  incorruptible), 
which  when  taken  down  were  found  as 
sound  as  when  placed  there  eleven  cen- 
turies before.  The  pillars  numbered 
once  upwards  of  1200,  now  reduced  to 
850  ;  but  if  we  include  those  embedded 
in  the  walls  and  others  absorbed,  so  to 
say,  in  works  of  repair,  etc.,  there  may 
even  now  be  said  to  be  about  1000. 
They  are  all  monolithic  (of  one  block), 
and  came,  already  shaped,  capitals  and 
all,  from  different  countries,  Roman 
temples,  mosques,  etc. ;  in  Spain,  chiefly 
from  Seville  and  Tarragona ;  in  France, 
from  Nismes  and  Narbonne ;  from  Car- 
thage in  Africa ;  from  Constantinople, 
whence  140  were  sent  as  a  present  by 
the  Emperor  Leo ;  and  hence  the  diver- 
sity of  styles,  sizes,  etc.  They  are 
of  marbles  of  different  hues  and  species, 
of  green  and  blood  jasper,  and  of  a 
handsome  red  breccia  from  Cabra. 
The  bases  are  unfortunately  mostly 
buried  under  the  poor  brick  flooring. 
The  capitals  are  generally  Composite, 
almost  all  those  on  the  E.  side  Corin- 
thian ;  but  this  character  is  vaguely  ex- 
pressed and  rudely  conceived.  Others 
have  purely  Arab  and  African  capitals. 
These  pillars  form  nineteen  spacious 
naves,  from  E.  to  W.,  and  twenty-nine 
from  N.  to  S. ,  which,  intersecting  each 
other  at  right  angles,  produce  great 
variety  of  perspectives,  enhanced  by  the 
elegant  ultra-semicircular  or  horseshoe 
arches,  most  originally  placed  one  upon 
another,  and  which,  used  in  this  mosque 
for  the  first  time,  add  to  its  architectural 
value.  The  important  additions  made 
by  Al-Manssour  are  in  the  African  style 
of  transition,  and  characterised  by  the 
presence  of  the  ogival  arch,  used  here 
for  the  first  time  in  the  Moorish  monu- 
ments of  Spain  and  the  type  of  the 
Spanish  ogival  style. 

The  Mih-rab,  or  Sanctuary  of  the 
Mosque.  — In  this  small  and  most  beau- 


tiful recess,  the  Othmanic  Koran  was 
placed,  and  the  Khalif,  the  Prince  oi 
the  Faithful,  Defender  of  the  Faith, 
Pope  and  Autocrat  at  the  same  time, 
used  to  perform  his  chotba  or  public 
prayer  at  the  window  towards  the  ceca, 
or  holy  of  holies,  and  placed  to  the 
Eiblah,  or  S. — that  is,  in  the  direction 
of  Mecca.  This  Mih-rab  forms  a 
heptagon  13  ft.  in  diameter,  and  27J  ft- 
high  to  the  cupola.  The  pavement  is 
of  white  marble,  as  well  as  the  base- 
ment and  the  shell -shaped  roof  (all 
of  one  block).  The  sides  of  the  hepta- 
gon are  decorated  with  three-lobed 
arches  resting  on  marble  pillarets,  with 
gilt  capitals  of  most  excellent  workman- 
ship. These  stand  upon  a  low  cornice, 
under  which  runs  an  inscription  in  gold. 
Inside  was  kept  the  pulpit  of  Al-Ha- 
kem  II. ,  unparalleled  in  the  world.  It 
was  all  of  ivory  and  precious  woods  and 
stones,  inlaid,  and  fastened  with  gold 
and  silver  nails ;  it  cost  some  £250,000, 
equal,  certainly,  now  to  a  million 
sterling !  In  it  was  kept  the  famous 
copy  of  the  Koran  made  by  Othman, 
and  stained  with  his  blood.  It  was 
contained  in  a  box  covered  with  gold 
tissue,  embroidered  with  pearls  and 
rubies,  and  placed  on  a  lectern  made 
of  aloe,  with  gold  nails.  This  pulpit 
disappeared  not  very  long  ago.  At 
the  hour  of  the  Azalah  this  book  was 
opened  and  read  by  the  Iman,  and 
then  taken  to  where  the  gold  and  silver 
sacred  vases  were  placed,  which  appeared 
in  the  illuminations  of  the  month  of  Ra- 
madan. 

To  right  and  left  of  this  sanc- 
tuary were  the  habitations  of  the  clergy. 
To  the  right  was  also  a  door  leading  by 
a  passage  to  the  Khalif  s  Palace,  which 
was  close  by.  Al-Hakem  II.,  who  built 
the  Mih-rab  and  Maksurah,  began 
these  works  about  961  A.O.  (according 
to  the  historian  of  Magreb,  I bn  Adzari, 
published  in  the  original  by  Dozy  of 


CORDOVA — CATHEDRAL. 


117 


Leyden,  and  translated  by  S.  Gayangos 
for  Sr.  Madrazo,  'Cordova,'  pp.  173-4). 
The  cupola  or  *  cubba '  of  the  Mih-rab 
was  put  up  in  965,  according  to  some 
hitherto  unedited  documents. 

The  mosaic  ornamentation  surpasses 
all  the  finest  examples  of  this  Byzantine 
art  elsewhere  in  Italy,  Africa,  or  the 
East  It  was  the  Greek  Psephosis  and 
Moorish  Sofeysafah.  The  Emperor  Leo 
sent  the  earliest  examples  of  it  to  Ab- 
du-r-rh&man  for  his  palace  of  Azzahra. 
The  Cordovan  khalii,  Hakem,  sent  an 
embassy  to  Constantinople,  asking  for 
artists  skilled  in  this  peculiar  way  of 
giving  to  glass,  flint,  and  metals  the 
effect  and  appearance,  and  almost  the 
texture,  of  a  velvet  and  gold  brocade. 
The  artists  came,  bringing  as  presents 
325  quintals  of  this  enamelled  mosaic. 
The  designs  are  Byzantine,  as  all  ob- 
jects of  art  and  luxury  were  in  Western 
Europe  in  the  10th  century  already. 
This  as  well  as  the  rest  of  the  mosque 
must  have  shone  like  a  palace  of  the 
'Arabian  Nights,'  when  in  the  festi- 
vities of  the  Rhamadhan  this  Mih-rab 
alone  was  lighted  up  by  a  lamp  number- 
ing 1454  lights,  and  the  60lbs.  -taper 
placed  by  the  khalif.  The  rest  of  the 
mosque  was  lighted  by  4  lamps  like  the 
above  ;  280  candelabra,  most  of  bronze. 
The  total  number  of  lights  was  10,805, 
and  750  arrobas  of  oil  were  used  per 
month,  (See  '  AL  Makkari,  voL  I  book 
3d,  chapter  ii.)  The  Cuflc  inscription 
refers  to  the  two  columns  placed  at  the 
entrance  in  965  A.c.  by  Al-Hakem. 

An  important  work  is  now  (1895) 
being  carried  out  in  the  mosque  under 
the  direction  of  D.  Ricardo  Velazquez, 
in  the  discovery  of  hidden  artistic 
beauties  and  the  gradual  restoration  of 
part  of  the  mosque  to  its  primitive 
condition.  Thus  in  the  Capilla  de 
Castilla  the  poor  modern  barrel  vaulting 
has  been  replaced  by  the  beautiful  old 
ceiling  ;  and  a  portion  of  the  floor  has 


been  relaid,  on  a  lower  level,  with  marble 
slabs  from  the  province  of  Huelva,  so 
as  to  leave  the  pillar  bases  visible. 

The  formal  erection  of  the  mosqice 
into  a  cathedral  took  place  in  1238, 
under  the  usual  name  of  Sta.  Maria. 
The  lateral  aisles  were  converted  into 
chapels. 

High  Chapel.—  Built  in  1547,  by 
Hernan  Ruiz,  and  finished  by  his  son 
and  Diego  de  Praves,  1599.  The  style 
of  it  is  Morisco-Gothic  and  plateresque. 
The  fine  retablo,  which  cost  50,000 
ducats,  is  the  work  of  the  Jesuit  Matias 
Alonso,  who  began  it  in  1618,  and 
finished  it  ten  years  after.  It  is  made 
out  of  the  rosy  jasper  from  Carcabuey, 
with  gilt  bronze  ornaments.  The 
painting  is  by  Antonio  Palomino.  The 
statues  indifferent.  The  tabernacle, 
also  by  Alonso,  aided  by  Sebastian 
Vidal  (1653),  is  very  rich,  and  well 
executed.  Observe  the  magnificent 
silver  lamp  hanging  from  the  roo£  and 
weighing  16  arrobas  (1636). 

Choir. — This  is  the  work  of  Hernan 
Ruiz,  who  commenced  it  in  1523,  and 
finished  it  in  1539.  The  style  is  pla- 
teresque and  effective.  The  stalls  are 
sixty-three  in  number,  and  by  Isabel 
Farnesio's  favourite  sculptor,  Pedro 
Duque  Cornejo,  1757 — churrigueresque, 
but  there  is  great  finishing  in  the 
elaborate  details.  The  mahogany  pul- 
pits, with  attributes  of  the  Evangelists, 
are  clumsy — the  work  of  Miguel  Verdi- 
guier  (1766).  Entre  los  coros  lies  Lope 
de  Rueda,  the  great  comic  writer, 
superior  in  many  points  to  Moliere. 

Chapels. — The  forty-five  chapels  and 
offices  around  the  naves  are  mostly 
very  indifferent.  They  date  generally 
from  a  period  unfavourable  to  taste  in 
art,  and  their  pictures,  statues,  etc., 
are  very  indifferent.  Notice  notwith- 
standing 

Capilla  de  San  Andr&s  (1628). — A 
picture  of  St.  Eulogio,  by  V.  Carducho 


118 


CORDOVA. 


C.  San  Esteban.  — Martyrdom  of  the 
saint  by  Luis  Zambrano. 

0.  del  Cardenal  Salazar. — Finished 
1705  ;  founded  by  Cardinal  Saiazar ; 
churrigueresque.  In  the  sacristia 
mayor  inquire  for  the  fine  Custodia  of 
Arfes  (Gothic),  for  the  Cruz  Antigua, 
full  of  florid  Gothic  details,  but  ill  re- 
paired. The  relics  are  kept  here.  The 
beautiful  Custodia  of  Arfes  was  begun 
1513,  and  finished  1518. 

Observe  especially  the  chapel  of 
Villamciosa,  with  the  adjoining  splen- 
didly decorated  Moorish  chapel,  for- 
merly the  Capilla  Mayor  of  the  first 
Christian  church.  Here,  in  the  latter, 
was  the  Mahsurah  once,  or  Seat  of  the 
Khalif,  all  paved  with  silver.  C6s- 
pedes  is  buried  in  front  of  Chapel  of 
San  Pablo  (ob.  1608).  Observe  this 
artist's  paintings  of  St.  John,  St. 
Andrew,  and  The  Last  Supper,  his 
masterpiece.  Over  altar  de  San  Rafael 
hangs  the  Apparition  of  the  saint,  a 
fine  painting  by  the  same  master.  A 
pillar  is  shown  with  a  rudely  traced 
Crucifixion,  said  to  have  been  the 
work  of  a  Christian  captive,  who 
executed  this  wonder  with  his  nail, 
and  whilst  he  was  for  years  fastened 
to  this  pillar ;  an  improbable  story, 
as  the  Moors  never  could  have  toler- 
ated a  Christian  captive  within  a 
mosque. 

Minor  Churches. — Colegiata  de  San 
Hiptilito. — Dates  middle  of  14th  cen- 
tury. Built  by  Alfonso  XI.,  in  thanks- 
giving for  his  victory  at  Tarifa,  when 
he  won  the  battle  del  Salado,  1340. 
Philip  V.,  in  1728,  removed  to  this 
church  the  Capilla  Real,  formerly  in 
the  cathedral,  and  founded  in  1371 
by  Henrique  II.  Ferdinand  IV.  and 
his  son,  the  chivalrous  and  gallant 
Alfonso  XL,  lie  buried  here.  This 
church  was  modernised  in  1729,  and  is 
in  the  vile  taste  of  that  period.     In  the 


High  Chapel  lie  the  bodies  of  the  father 
mother,  and  brother  of  the  gran  capitan, 
Gonzalo  de  Cordova,  luckier  than  this 
great  hero,  whose  ashes  were  scattered 
to  the  winds  during  the  French  inva- 
sion. Here  also  lies  the  erudite  *  cro- 
nista '  Ambrosio  de  Morales,  in  a  plain 
tomb  erected  by  his  pupil,  Cardinal 
Sandoval  y  Rojas,  Archbishop  of  To- 
ledo. The  privileges,  etc.,  of  the  Royal 
Chapel  and  Colegiata  were  suppressed 
by  government  in  1852. 

Chivrch  of  Sta.  Marina  de  Aguas 
Santas. — Modernised,  except  on  the 
outside.  Founded  in  7th  century,  but 
rebuilt  after  the  conquest.  Some  in- 
different pictures  and  tombs  of  the 
Benavides,  and  of  a  Marquesa  de  Gua- 
dalcazar  (ob.  1803),  who  (a  rare  in- 
stance in  Spain)  was  a  blue  stocking, 
Doctora  en  Filosofia  y  Letras  JBumanas, 
Fellow  of  the  Spanish  Royal  Academy, 
etc.,  and  died  aged  thirty-five.  Most 
of  the  parish  churches  date  13th  and 
1 4th  centuries,  but  have  been  so  ill  re- 
paired and  churriguerised  that  they 
have  lost  most  of  their  importance. 

The  Belfry  Tower  of  San  Nicolas  is 
very  pretty  and  Moorish-like.  Upon 
it  are  the  words,  *  Paciencia,  obedi- 
encia,'  said  to  have  been  put  up  as  a  re- 
proof to  the  nuns  of  San  Martin,  for- 
merly in  this  square,  who  objected  to 
this  church  being  erected  opposite  to 
them,  as  it  would  impede  the  prospect 
they  then  enjoyed.  Visit  the  finely  re- 
stored church  of  San  Pablo,  where, 
under  layers  of  plaster,  have  been 
discovered  a  fine  ceiling,  dainty  Moor- 
ish ornament,  and  good  capitals  ;  also, 
outside  the  town,  the  picturesquely- 
situated  Santuario  de  N.  Sra.  de  Fuen- 
santa  (8th,  9th,  and  10th  September 
are  great  holidays,  kept  up  here  with 
pomp  and  pious  jollification).  Observe 
four  copper  paintings,  ascribed  to 
Teniers,  one  of  which  represents  the 
'  Crowning  Christ  with  Thorns. ' 

The  Alcazar,  or  Khalif  s  Palace,  was 


CORDOVA — THE  ALCAZAR. 


119 


very  extensive,  and  occupied  the  site  of 
the  present  prison  and  episcopal  palace. 
Now  nothing  remains  save  a  few  walls 
and  orchards.  It  was  situated  W.  of 
the  city,  and  N.  of  the  river.  It  was 
the  former  palace  of  the  Gothic  kings, 
where  the  khalifs  lodged  first,  and  then 
repaired  and  modified  it,  enlarging  it 
considerably.  The  little  we  know  of 
this  palace,  doubtless  magnificent  and 
spacious,  is  derived  from  Al-Makkart 
Ibn-Bashkuwal,  and  Aben  Hayyan, 
who  mention  its  wonderful  gardens  and 
halls,  and  its  baths  provided  with  water 
brought  from  the  Guadalquivir  through 
a  hydraulic  brick  machine,  called  Albo- 
lafia.  These  baths  existed  till  the  end 
of  the  15th  century,  when  the  machine, 
probably  in  the  shape  of  a  huge  hy- 
draulic wheel,  was  destroyed  because  its 
noise  kept  Queen  Isabella  awake,  when 
she  was  lodged  in  the  Alcazar.  The 
Alcazar  Nuevo,  now  a  prison,  was  for- 
merly the  residence  of  the  Santo  Oficia 
(Inquisition),  and  built  in  1328  by  Al- 
fonso XI.  It  is  a  square,  enclosed  by 
a  thick  wall,  with  towers  at  the  angles. 
The  interior,  with  its  twenty  dungeons 
(calabozos)  and  seven  patios,  we  advise 
readers  to  abstain  from  visiting,  for  it 
is  now  the  abode  of  misery,  vice,  filth, 
and  neglect  The  gardens  of  the  Al- 
cazar are  most  indifferent  and  weedy. 
In  the  chapel  is  a  good  Crucifixion  by 
A.  del  Castillo. 

The  Bishop's  Palace  dates  of  15th 
century,  but  was  considerably  repaired 
and  almost  rebuilt  in  1745,  in  the  chur- 
rigueresque  style.  Ferdinand  VII., 
whose  fate  seems  to  have  been  to  dwell 
in  confinement,  was  kept  here  a  pri- 
soner in  1823,  and  attempted  to  escape. 
In  the  Tovm  Hall  are  kept  the  archives 
of  the  city,  deficient  in  general  interest 
and  ill  arranged. 

•  Museo. — Cordova  never  produced 
greit  painters  —  Pablo  de  C&pedes, 
Arbasia,  and  their  pupils,  Mohedano, 


Zambrano,  Raphaelesque  in  his  style, 
Vela,  who  imitated  Carducci,  Contreras 
and  Pefia,  and  the  modern  Monroy,  are 
the  only  names  we  know  of.  The  style 
they  adopted  was  Italian  and  Sevillian. 
The  present  picture-gallery  contains 
some  239  paintings  —  all  rubbish. 
Among  other  curiosidades,  we  may 
mention  a  small  bronze  deer,  said  to  be 
Moorish  work,  and  to  have  been  found 
in  the  gardens  of  Azzhara. 

Walls  and  Gates. — The  walls  are  all 
of  Moorish  workmanship,  though  re- 
paired since.  They  are  of  tapia,  and 
strengthened  by  bold  turrets,  square, 
octagon,  etc.  The  gates  have  lost 
much,  and  many  all  their  picturesque 
former  character ;  notice,  nevertheless, 
that  of  Almodovar ;  of  El  Osario, 
flanked  by  turrets  ;  that  of  El  Puente, 
after  designs  by  Herrera  ;  the  two  good 
bassi-relievi  above  are  ascribed  to  Torri- 
giano.  Julius  Caesar  describes  the  ori- 
ginal circumvallation,  of  which  little 
has  been  changed  since  (b.o.  11-19). 
Around  the  Almodovar  gate  lay  the 
ancient  Juderia,  or  Jews'  quarters,  and 
it  was  called  by  the  Moors  after  them 
*  Bab-1-Yahud.'  The  tower  close  to  it, 
Torre  de  la  Malmuerte,  dates  1406. 

The  Bridge. — The  bridge  over  the 
Guadalquivir  is  said  by  the  Arab  writers 
to  have  been  originally  built  by  Octa- 
vius  Caesar,  but  it  was  entirely  rebuilt 
by  the  khalifs  of  Cordova.  It  is  com- 
posed of  sixteen  arches,  and  is  very 
picturesque,  as  well  as  the  Moorish 
mills  close  to  it,  and  the  Calahorra 
(Kalat  horreah)  tower,  with  its  poly- 
gonal barbican  and  buttresses,  is  most 
effective,  and  played  an  important 
part  in  the  siege  of  Cordova  by  Pedrc 
of  Castile. 

The  streets  of  Moorish  Cordova  are 
the  first  that  were  ever  paved  in  Europe, 
and  were  so  by  order  of  Abdu-r-rhaman, 
in  850.  The  principal  ones  are  the 
Calle  de  la  Feria,  now  de  San  Fernando, 


120 


CORDOVA. 


San  Pablo,  Carniceria,  Sta.  Victoria, 
etc.  Visit  the  general  market  in  the 
old  square  of  La  Corredera,  so  called 
because  it  was  the  site  where  tourna- 
ments and  correr  toros  took  place.  The 
wooden  galleries,  etc.,  date  1683,  and 
are  the  work  of  the  popular  and  famous 
Alcalde  Ronquillo.  Readers  of  '  Don 
Quixote'  will  not  fail  to  visit  the  Potro, 
a  popular  quarter,  so  called  because 
formerly  a  horse-market  (potro,  a  filly). 
Visit  the  Chapel  of  Hospital  del  Car- 
denal,  which  was  part  of  the  mosque 
built  by  Al-Manssour,  near  his  palace. 

El  Triunfo  is  a  heavy,  clumsy  monu- 
ment, erected  by  Bishop  Barcia  in  com- 
memoration of  the  miraculous  apparition 
of  St.  Rafael,  the  tutelar  of  Cordova, 
whose  statue  crowns  this  wretched 
monument  (1765). 

Private  Houses  and  Proutbits. — Most 
of  the  fine  old  solares  built  in  the  15th 
and  16  th  centuries  no  longer  exist,  or 
are  so  disfigured  as  to  deserve  no  atten- 
tion. Observe  the  house  of  the  Mar- 
queses  del  Carpio  (13th  century),  and 
that  which  belonged  to  the  family  of 
Paez  de  Castillejo. 

Of  the  900  baths,  remains  of  two  only 
may  be  seen,  in  Calle  del  Bafto  Alta, 
No.  5,  and  Calle  del  Baiio  Baja,  No.  10. 
They  have  been  sadly  disfigured,  but 
still  preserve  their  marble  columns,  the 
square  lumbreras  (louvres,  loopholes), 
etc.  In  the  Calle  de  las  Cabezas  is  also 
a  house  called  de  las  Cabezas,  from  the 
heads  of  the  Infantes  de  Lara,  that  were 
placed  on  the  facade.  The  ballad, 
mentioning  how  these  heads,  treache- 
rously cut  off,  were  served  before  the 
Infantes'  father,  is  very  characteristic 
of  that  time  : — 

Un  costoso  plato  falta, 
Ay,  frata  temprana  I  etc. 

(See  A.  de  Morales'  *  Cr6n.,'  lib.  xxvL, 
etc.)  Visit  the  Moorish  houses,  called 
Casa  de  la  Cuadra,  in  the  Plazuela  dc 


San  Nicolas,  remarkable  for  its  gal 
lery  of  jasper  columns,  with  Byzantine 
capitals,  and  a  beautiful  arch,  sadly 
whitewashed.  That  of  Las  Campanas, 
opposite  to  Church  de  Santiago,  also 
preserves  vestiges  of  past  splendour  and 
taste. 

Within  the  city  is  also  the  Campillo 
(now  Campo  Santo),  where  Christian 
martyrs  were  put  to  death,  and  the  site 
of  the  Roman  fortress  and  Moorish  Al- 
cazar. It  was  hereabouts  that  grew 
the  celebrated  plane-tree,  planted  by 
Julius  Caesar  after  the  battle  of  Munda, 
and  which  Martial  mentions : — 

In  Tartessiacis  domus  est  notissima  terris, 
Qua  dives  placidum  Corduba  Baetin  amat 

Ej>.  62,  book  ix. 

The  house  of  El  Conde  del    Aguila 
(Plaza  Anto.  Cabrera)  is  also  curious. 


Excursions. — Three  miles  N.W.  of 
Cordova  in  a  dehesa  belonging  to 
Marq.  de  Guadalcazar,  and  where  now 
but  very  rare  fragments  of  broken 
pillars  are  found,  rose  once  the  fairy 
palace  of  Azzahra,  built  by  Abdu-r- 
rhaman  An-nasir,  for  his  sultana  of 
that  name.  It  was  all  of  marbles, 
jasper,  and  stone,  with  great  richness 
of  decoration — the  statue  of  the  favour- 
ite being  placed  over  the  door.  The 
architect  was  the  most  famous  that 
Stamboul  could  produce,  and  this  royal 
village,  a  Moorish  Versailles,  sprang 
forth,  as  if  by  magic,  under  the  wand 
of  the  Louis  XIV.  of  that  period.  His 
harem  contained  6300  women  and  300 
baths.  His  body-guard  amounted  to 
12,000  men.  His  household  consumed 
13,000  lbs.  of  meat  daily.  The  works 
were  begun  in  936-7  A. a,  and  lasted 
many  years.  3000  mules,  horses,  and 
camels  were  daily  employed,  with  10,000 
workmen,  who  were  paid  from  one  to 
three  dirhems  a-day  (about  £1).  The 
khalif  was  so  absorbed  by  the  works 


CORDOVA — EXCURSIONS. 


121 


that  lie  even  missed  three  Fridays'  Za- 
lah  at  the  mosque,  upon  which  the  the- 
ologian Mundhar  threatened  him  pub- 
licly with  hell  fire.  4300  marble 
columns  were  brought  from  Rome,  Nar- 
bonne,  Tunis,  etc.  The  total  cost 
amounted  to  7  J  millions  of  dinahrs 
(524  millions  sterling),  which  were  de- 
frayed by  the  third  of  the  emperor's 
revenue.  Many  other  details  concern- 
ing this  wondrous  palace  and  its  two 
mosques  may  be  found  in  Al-Makkari's 
histories — 'Hist,  of  Magreb,'  by  Ben 
Adzari,  etc.  There  is  here  a  buried 
mine  of  Moorish  art,  that  calls  loudly 
for  a  Marietta  or  a  Layard.  See  Recuer- 
das,  etc.,  de  JSspafia,  Cordova,  p.  407. 

An  excursion  may  be  also  made,  espe- 
cially in  summer  or  spring,  to  the  Arri- 
zafa,  J  league  from  Cordova,  on  the 
slopes  of  the  Sierra,  and  in  a  charming 
situation.  It  was  the  Rizzefah,  a  villa 
erected  by  Abdu-r-rhaman,  but  of  which 
nothing  now  remains.  Several  country 
houses  on  these  slopes  may  be  rented 
as  a  whole  or  in  apartments,  and  upon 
very  moderate  terms.  The  country 
around  is  woody,  and  pleasant  paseos 
can  be  taken.  The  carob-tree,  ever- 
green oak,  variegated  cistus,  myrtles, 
and  palms  grow  forest-like.  Accord- 
ing to  Conde,  that  master  in  erudite 
errors,  the  first  palm  ever  seen  in 
Spain  was  planted  here  by  Abdu- 
r-rhaman,  who  is  said  to  have  composed 
to  it  the  melancholy  verses  in  which  he 
compares  his  life  to  that  of  the  tree 
transplanted  from  other  lands  : — 

Tu  tambien,  insigne  palma, 
Eres  aqui  forastera,  etc. 

Close  by  are  the  Hermitages  of  Val- 
paraiso. The  ErmUas  are  very  pic- 
turesquely situated,  and  enclosed  by  a 
low  walL  The  head  hermit,  or  hermano 
mayor,  has  a  larger  house  than  the  rest. 
The  chapel  is  indifferent.  Monastic 
and  eremitical  life  in  Cordova  is  of  great 


antiquity,  and,  it  is  thought,  was  intro- 
duced by  the  celebrated  Bishop  Hosius, 
who  had  seen  it  in  Egypt.  These 
wretched  hovels,  now  chiefly  inhabited 
by  laziness  and  ignorance,  were  once 
the  refuge  to  which  worn-out  valour, 
deluded  ambition,  and  often  repentant 
crime,  fled  during  the  middle  ages. 
Around  are  several  lovely  rides,  through 
rose-gardens,  pine-forests  (Pinus  pinea), 
chestnuts,  and  olives.  The  rosales  of 
Cordova  were  once  the  pride  of  the  Moor, 
and  sung  by  their  poets.  They  culti- 
vated them  with  great  care  and  inge- 
nuity. Ebn-el-Amam's  'Hadji,'  'Abdu- 
el-Sair,'  and  other  special  treatises,  are 
curious  to  consult  on  this  matter. 

Another  ride  takes  one  to  the  ruins 
of  a  hieronymite  convent,  looking  over 
the  Campina,  and  lying  amid  orange- 
groves,  evergreen  oaks,  and  luxuriant 
olives.  These  latter  are  reckoned  the 
best  in  Andalusia,  though  some  prefer 
the  Sevillanas.  Lope  de  Rueda,  in  his 
charming  'entremes,'  called  'Las  Acei- 
tunas,'  praises  those  of  Cordova ;  and 
Lope  de  Vega,  in  his  *  Battle  of  the 
Cats,'  'La  Gatomaquia,'  says,  'Las 
sabrosas  de  Cordoba  aceitunas.'  The 
coscoja,  or  scarlet  oak  (from  which  the 
kermes  proceeds),  the  madronos,  or 
strawberry-tree,  quejigo,  the  purple 
sauge,  the  straw-coloured  gualda,  woad 
blue,  splendid  nigela,  will  draw  the  at- 
tention of  all  botanists  and  lovers  of 
flowers.  The  mineral  wealth  of  the 
sierra  is  great.  Coalfields,  lead  mines 
rich  in  silver,  copper,  antimony,  and 
calamine  veins,  are  now  being  rapidly 
developed  by  foreign  capital,  and  the 
mineralogist  will  have  abundant  mat- 
ter for  observation.  Nor  will  the 
sportsman  lose  here  his  time,  for 
the  sierra  abounds  with  game ;  there 
are  242  species  of  birds ;  the  lynx 
(Felix  pardma ;  the  grifo  (Gipastus 
barbatus)  ;  the  wild  boar,  deer, 
hares,  and  especially  rabbits.    Anglers 


122 


coruSa. 


will  not  find  much  to  do  in  the 
Guadalquivir  and  affluents,  which, 
nevertheless,  produce  tencas  (tenches), 
barbos  (barbel),  and  exquisite  eels, 
(anguilas). 

About  2  m.  N.  of  the  city  lie  the 
lead-smelting  works  of  the  Linares  and 
Alamillos  Company.  The  visitor  is 
shown  over  with  a  permit  from  the 
city  offices. 


Excursion  to  Montilla. 

Interesting  for  its  wine-cellars,  as  being  the 
birthplace  of  £1  Gran  Capitan,  Gonsalvo  de 
OSrdoba,  and  for  the  palace  of  the  Dukes  of 
Medina -Celi.  Fifth  station  on  the  Malaga 
line.     Fares,  ist  cl.,  pes.  6.35 ;   2d  cl.,  pes. 

4-75- 

Montilla. — A  decent  posada.  This  small  and 
now  unimportant  city,  pop.  14,654,  is  pictur- 
esquely situated  on  the  two  hills  of  £1  Castillo 
and  Las  Sileras,  from  which  the  view  is  exten- 
sive. Its  churches  are  indifferent.  In  the 
highest  part  stood  once  the  most  glorious  castle 
in  all  Andalusia,  which  was  built  by  the  Gran 
Capitan's  father,  Pedro  Fern,  de  Cordoba,  and 
demolished  by  order  of  Ferdinand  the  Catholic, 
to  punish  its  owner,  Marquds  del  Priego,  for 
having  imprisoned  within  its  dungeons  Fernan 
Gomez  de  Herrera.  The  site  is  now  occupied  by 
some  large  granaries.  This,  the  Roman  Munda 
Betica,  is  now  a  dull,  backward  town,  celebrated 
only  for  its  exquisite  Montilla,  a  peculiar,  most 
flavoury  sort  of  dry,  light  sherry,  with  much 
body,  and  which  communicates  aroma  to  all  the 


wines  it  is  mixed  with,  and  especially  sherry. 
The*  amontillado  sherry  indicates  a  class  of 
wine  which  in  flavour  somewhat  resembles  that 
of  Montilla.  It  is  almost  ignored  elsewhere 
than  here,  but  must  some  day  rival  sherry  itself, 
and  there  are  fortunes  to  be  made  here,  were 
speculation  and  industry  to  venture  establish- 
ments. There  are  several  wine-growers,  whose 
bodegas  may  be  visited  ;  among  them  we  shall 
mention  Sr.  Alvear,  a  gentleman  of  Anglo- 
Spanish  origin.  These  wines  have  no  other 
rivals  in  Spain,  save,  perhaps,  those  of  Pago  dt 
Rio  Frio,  near  Cabra,  3  leagues  from  Baena. 

Boohs  of  Reference. — 1.  'Corografia 
de  la  Provincia  y  Obispado,'  by  Casas- 
Deza.  First  vol.  only  published.  Cor- 
doba, Nogu6s  y  Mant£,  1838. 

2.  '  Breve  Tratado  de  Geografia  de 
la  Provincia  de  Cordoba/  by  same  ; 
Cordoba,  Garcia,  1841.  Both  excellent 
works. 

8.  '  Indicador  Cordobes,'  etc.,  written 
especially  for  travellers  by  Las-Casas- 
Deza ;  Cordoba,  Rodriguez,  1857.  Ex- 
cellent and  accurate. 

4.  '  Recuerdos  y  Bellezas  de  Espana,' 
by  Pedro  de  Madrazo  ;  '  Guia  de  Cor- 
doba,' 1875;  'Manualito  de  Cdr- 
doba. ' 

5.  '  Estudio  Descriptivo  de  los  Monu- 
mentos  Arabes  de  Granada,  Sevilla  y 
C6rdoba,'  con  grabados  y  pianos,  Rafael 
Contreras,  Madrid,  1883.  A  careful 
and  valuable  work. 


CORURA  (La). 


La  Cortina  (English  Corunna)  is  the 
capital  of  the  province  of  the  same 
name  ;  suffragan  of  Santiago.  Popula- 
tion about  42,000.  Capitania-General 
Galicia. 

Boutes  and  Conveyances. 
1.   From  Madrid  in  25  hours ;  dis- 


tance, 831  kil.  Fares,  1st  cl.,  Pes. 
83.05;  2d  cl.,  62.20;  3d  cl.,  37.35. 
Two  through  trains  per  day ;  one  of 
the  most  comfortable  lines  in  Spain. 
Scenery  fine.  Buffets  at  Avila,  Medina 
del  Campo,  Valladolid,  Yenta  de  Banos, 
Leon.  Monforte  and  Lugo. 


CORUftA — ROUTES,  ETC. 


123 


Route  (to  Leon,  p.  218).—  Orbigo. 
—The  bridge  over  the  Orbigo  was,  on 
the  10th  July  1434,  the  site  of  the  pas 
cCarmes  called  El  Paso  Honroso,  per- 
formed by  Don  Suero  de  Quinones, 
when  he  challenged  and  fought  during 
ten  days  all  knights  who  passed  on  their 
way  to  the  grand  jubilee  at  Santiago  ; 
and  this  he  did  in  order  to  be  entitled 
to  remove  an  iron  link  which  he  wore 
round  his  neck  every  Thursday  in  token 
of  his  captivity  to  the  lady  of  his  love. 
177  lances  were  split,  seventy-eight 
knights  having  accepted  the  challenge, 
and,  though  called  a  gentle  pass,  one 
knight  was  killed  and  eleven  wounded ; 
but  Don  Suero  proved  victorious,  and 
the  link  was  removed  by  heralds  amid 
great  pomp  and  ceremony.  His  sword 
is  at  the  Madrid  armoury. 

The  country  is  fiat  and  most  unin- 
teresting, glaring  and  dusty  in  summer, 
and  wind-blown  in  the  wintry  months. 

Astorga  (Prov.  of  Leon). — Bishop's 
see,  4803  inhab.  Fonda  Fernandez. — 
This  very  ancient  city,  the  Asturica 
Augusta  of  Pliny,  was  an  important 
centre  of  communication  in  the  time  of 
the  Romans,  and  four  via  diverged, 
leading  to  Braga,  Zaragoza,  Tarragona, 
and  to  Aquitaine,  across  the  Pyrenees. 
Its  walls,  of  Roman  work,  were  re- 
spected by  "Witiza,  an  exception  which 
he  extended  only  to  Leon  and  Toledo. 
They  still  subsist  in  all  their  picturesque- 
ness  and  strength,  linked  here  and  there 
by  massive  cubos,  and  forming  a  pro- 
longed oblong  square,  extending  from 
E.  to  W.,  and  following  the  level  of 
the  ground.  On  the  E.  extremity, 
several  Roman  sarcophagi  are  embedded 
in  them.  Here,  in  1875,  was  found 
the  sculptured  open  hand,  with  the 
inscription  Efs  Z«)y  Eep&ms  'lad 
("One  is  Zeus — Serapis — Iao")  dating 
probably  from  the  3rd  or  4th  century. 
[See  below,  p.  178,  the  Moorish  hand 
in   decoration.]     During   the    Penin- 1 


sular  war  Astorga  offered  a  heroic  re- 
sistance first  to  Loison  (1810),  and  next 
to  Junot,  who  was  obliged  to  retire, 
but  subsequently  entered,  a  capitula- 
tion being  offered.  Its  capabilities 
of  resistance,  were,  however,  scanty, 
and  the  surrender  excusable.  Astorga 
is  the  capital  of  La  Maragateria,  a  dis- 
trict of  some  four  leagues  square,  situ- 
ated between  the  Picos  of  El  Teleno 
and  Foncebadon,  to  S.W.  of  Astorga, 
and  exclusively  peopled  by  the  honest, 
active,  and  interesting  race  of  Maragatos 
(Mauri  Capti),  who  are  descendants,  it 
is  supposed,  from  the  Moors,  whose  wide 
breeches  and  part  of  their  costume  they 
have  preserved.  The  principal  sight 
here  is 

The  Cathedral. — The  see  of  Astorga 
is  as  old  as  347,  when  its  bishop,  Domi- 
tian,  was  present  at  the  Council  of 
Sardes.  The  cathedral  dates  1471,  and, 
owing  to  several  repairs,  has  been 
modernised,  and  presents  a  medley  of 
Gothic,  churrigueresque,  and  plater- 
esque. 

The  interior  is  divided  into  three 
naves,  the  lateral  ones  being  very  nar- 
row and  lower  than  the  central.  It  is 
58  metres  long  by  23  wide.  The  stalls 
of  the  choir  are  elaborately  carved  in 
imitation  of  the  early  period  of  Gothic  ; 
they  date  1551,  and  are  the  work  of 
Tomas  and  Roherto.  The  lower  row 
consists  of  busts  of  saints  of  Old  Testa- 
ment ;  it  is  inferior  to  the  upper  row, 
in  which  admire  the  male  saints  on  the 
right,  and  female  saints  on  the  left, 
according  to  etiquette,  all  of  the  New 
Testament.  Some  of  the  stained  glass 
is  good,  but  not  early.  The  trascoro 
was  churriguerised  in  1732.  The  reja 
and  pulpit  are  fine,  and  date  1622,  by 
Ldzaro  Azcain,  of  Bilbao.  The  finest 
thing  here  is  the  retablo  mayor,  the  mas- 
terpiece of  Gaspar  de  Becerra,  1569, 
and  for  which  the  chapter  paid  41,000 
ducats.     It  is  of  pentagonal  shape,  each 


124 


CORU&A — UOUTES,  ETC. 


of  the  five  compartments  consisting  of 
three  tiers  ;  the  centre  of  the  principal 
tier  is  occupied  by  a  tabernacle  adorned 
with  figures,  and  under  a  canopy  sup- 
ported by  two  angels ;  that  of  the  se- 
cond represents  the  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin,  who  is  seated  on  a  throne 
formed  by  cherubs  ;  that  of  the  third 
is  her  coronation.  This  grand,  simple, 
and  beautiful  sculptured  poem  is 
crowned  with  groups  representing  the 
Passion.  The  relievos  represent  the 
different  episodes  of  the  Virgin's  life, 
and  are  of  the  three  orders.  Observe 
and  admire  the  execution,  draperies, 
attitudes,  and  expression ;  the  grouping 
and  general  composition  are  forcible 
and  classical. 

The  cloisters  were  modernised,  and 
not  ineffectively,  by  Gaspar  Lopez,  end 
of  18th  century ;  the  sacristy  is  of  1772. 

The  remaining  churches  at  Astorga 
are  indifferent.  The  agimeces  and 
early  Gothic  of  San  Francisco  may  be 
looked  at.  On  the"  site  of  the  ruined 
castle  stood  once  the  proud  Palacio 
of  the  Marqueses  de  Astorga.  The 
ruins  exhibit  good  specimens  of  niedi- 
®val  military  architecture.  Observe 
its  cubos  and  buttresses,  and  the  osorio 
motto, 

Do  nuevo  lugar  posieron — 
Moverla  jamas  podieron  ; 

with  a  rope  and  shield,  all  very  pictur- 
esque. 

The  streets  are  ill-paved  ;  all  is  back- 
ward and  desolate.  The  Paseo  Nuevo 
is  pretty. 

JSembibre. — 586  inhab.,  situated  on 
the  confluence  of  the  Nocedaand  Baeza. 

Villafranca  del  Vierzo. — This  all 
tourists  who  intend  to  make  an  ex- 
cursion into  the  Vierzo  will  make  their 
head -quarters;  pop.  8800;  a  decent 
posada  (La  Nueva). 

Lugo.— Pop.  21,298 ;  capital  of  pro- 
vince of  same  name ;  bishop's  see ; 
on  the  Mino.    Fondas — Mendez  Nunez, 


Espagnol.  The  best  is  indifferent. 
The  Lucus  Augusti  of  the  Romans,  who 
frequented  its  sulphur  baths  on  the 
Mino,  and  of  which  some  remains  can  be 
seen,  as  well  as  a  dyke.  The  walls  are 
very  interesting,  30  ft.  to  40  ft.  high, 
and  about  20  ft  thick,  flanked  by 
cubos,  formerly  eighty-five  in  number. 
The  ramparts  are  now  the  paseo,  and 
from  them  the  view  is  pleasant  and  ex- 
tensive. The  streets  are  clean.  The 
Plaza  Mayor,  with  arcades  on  one  side, 
is  the  rendezvous  of  local  types — Mara- 
gotas  and  arrieros.  The  Library  del 
Obispado  contains  some  7000  volumes, 
proceeding  from  suppressed  convents. 
The  only  interesting  edifice  here  is 

The  Cathedral.— It  dates  1129,  when 
it  was  built  by  Maestro  Baymundo, 
whose  contract  with  the  Chapter  is  dated 
that  same  year.  It  was  finished  1177. 
The  exterior  has  been  modernised,  as 
well  as  the  incongruous  towers  and 
cloisters,  of  which  only  two  lateral 
doors  retain  the  former  style.  The 
interior  consists  of  three  naves,  well 
lighted  up,  with  low  arches,  and  a 
gallery  above.  The  Silleria  of  1624  is 
a  good  sample  of  the  gallego  sculptor, 
Francisco  de  Moure.  This  cathedral 
shares  with  San  Isidoro  of  Leon  the 
privilege  of  having  the  consecrated 
host  permanently  de  manifiesto.  The, 
N.  doorway  is  early  and  interesting ; 
within  a  vesica  in  the  tympanum  is  a 
figure  of  Our  Lord,  and  below  is,  as  a 
pendant,  the  Last  Supper.  The  high 
altar  is  modern  and  indifferent.  Be- 
hind is  a  chapel  dedicated  to  Our  Lady 
of  the  Large  Eyes  I  Ecclesiologists  may 
visit  the  conventual  churches  of  Los 
Capuchinos  and  Sto.  Domingo;  they 
are  14th  century  buildings,  and  though 
partly  modernised,  and  the  former  de- 
secrated, still  contain  well-preserved 
details. 

The  mineral  spring  is  about  10  min. 
walk  from  the  town.     Its  temperaturr 


CORUflA. 


125 


is  36°  Cent,  and  it  is  most  efficacious 
in  nervous  complaints,  diseases  of  the 
skin,  eta 

General  Moore,  in  his  retreat  on 
Corufia,  halted  here  (Jan.  6,  1809), 
and  gave  his  worn-out  troops  some 
days  of  rest.  Soult,  who  had  been  sent 
in  his  pursuit,  came  up  soon  after,  and 
hesitated  to  accept  the  battle  presented 
by  the  English.  Ignorant  of  the  state 
and  numbers  of  the  enemy,  the  French 
general  adopted  a  defensive  line,  and 
lost  time  in  partial  attacks  and  manoeu- 
vring. On  the  9th  the  British  forces 
retired  in  good  order,  and  fell  back  on 
La  Corufia,  unmolested  by  the  French, 
who  were  for  some  time  unaware  of  the 
retreat  of  an  army  which  they  could  so 
easily  have  annihilated,  had  they,  with 
their  forces  and  fresh  troops,  attacked 
it  at  once,  and  boldly. 

Betanzos. — Prov.  of  Corufia  ;  7919 
inhab.  Near  the  rivers  Mendo  and 
Mandeu. 

2.  From  Santiago,  2  diligences  daily. 

Itinerary. 


Santiago  to  Siqueiro 

Leira 

Corufia 


Leagues. 

.    3 

•  5 


9* 

3.  From  Ferrol  (see  at  end  of  Corufia, 
Excursion  to  Ferrol). 

Steamers. 

4.  From  Bayonne  in  about  40  hrs.  ; 
from  Vigo  in  16  hrs.  ;  from  Gijon  in 
18  hrs.  ;  from  Santander ;  also  from 
Liverpool,  Southampton,  Plymouth, 
London,  Havre  and  Marseilles.  For 
all  these  and  other  routes  see  advertise- 
ments in  time-bills  and  papers  and 
wall  placards.  The  coasting  vessels 
are  very  slow  and  uncomfortable,  while 
the  larger  steamers — such  as  those  of 
the  Royal  Mail  (calling  only  on  their 


outward  passage),  the  Anglo-Dominion 
Company,  and  the  Internationale — are 
exceedingly  uncertain. 

COHTTlirA. 

Inns. — Hotel  de  Europa,  Calle  de 
San  Andres ;  Hotel  de  Francia,  Rua 
Nueva ;  Fonda  Carrilana  (coaches  for 
Santiago),  Calle  Real. 

Cafis. — El  Suizo  and  Oriental,  both 
in  the  Calle  Real. 

Post  Office  and  Telegraph  Office. — 
Both  in  the  Plaza  Nueva  de  Maria 
Pita. 

H.B.M.  Consul.— G.  A.  P.  Talbot, 
Esq.     United  States. — J.  Harmony. 

Bankers. — Sobrinos  de  Jose  Pastor  ; 
Messrs.  Guyatt  and  Rowstron. 

Clubs. — Sporting  Club  ;  Circulo  de 
Artesanos  ;  Tertulia  de  Confianza. 

Corufia  is  the  chief  seaport  of  Galicia 
and  rival  of  Vigo.  Her  trade,  however, 
after  many  fluctuations,  shows  a  decided 
falling  off.  The  total  imports  for  the 
year  1897  were  of  the  value  of  £330,758, 
and  the  total  exports,  £185,061.  The 
number  of  IJritish  trading  ships  enter- 
ing the  port  in  1897  was  55,  of  a 
total  tonnage  of  149,946  tons.  The 
number  of  Spanish  vessels  entering  the 
port  was  957,  with  a  tonnage  of<707,239 
tons.  Still  known  to  British  sailors 
as  'The  Groyne*  (La  Crufla),  it  lies 
half-way  between  Capes  Ortegal  and 
Finisterre,  in  a  situation  most  favour- 
able to  trade.  The  bay  is  spacious 
and  most  secure,  ships  being  able 
to  enter  it  at  all  times  and  in  all 
weather.  The  port  itself  is  defended 
by  the  Castillo  de  San  Anton  and  that 
of  San  Diego,  and  the  roadstead  by 
Castillo  de  Sta.  Cruz  (eight  guns)  and 
battery  de  la  Oza.  The  climate  is 
delicious,  and  can  be  strongly  recom- 
mended to  invalids.  The  mortality  is 
1.32.  The  sea-bathing  is  first-rate. 
Living  is  good  and  fairly  cheap.    Frui' 


126 


CORUSlA. 


and  excellent  fish  abound.  Indeed, 
anglers  can  make  this  their  head- 
quarters, and  scour  the  trout -streams 
which  flow  into  the  bay ;  the  best 
being  the  Lamia,  Eo,  Turia,  and 
Allones.  A  little  roughing -it  is  still 
necessary  inland,  but  matters  have 
greatly  improved  in  that  respect.  It 
must  be  borne  in  mind,  too,  here  as  in 
in  all  the  north-west,  that,  with  the 
enhanced  means  of  communication  now 
available,  the  old  uncertain  stoppages 
in  out-of-the-way  spots  may  be  avoided. 
The  city  is  divided  into  two  very 
different  portions — the  upper,  alta,  por- 
tion and  a  lower  one,  bey  a,  called  Pes- 
caderia,  and  which,  once  but  a  refuge 
of  fishermen,  has  gradually  outstripped 
the  former  and  older  part,  and  is  im- 
proving and  prosperous.  The  Calle 
Real  and  Calle  Espoz  y  Mina  are 
broad,  handsome,  and  much  frequented. 
La  Marina  is  the  evening  summer 
paseo,  and  a  most  charming  one  it  is. 
Englishmen  will  not  fail  to  visit  the 
Jardin  de  San  Carlos,  in  the  centre  of 
which  stands  the  tomb  of  General 
Moore,  with  the  inscription ;  *  Joanes 
Moore.  Exercitus  Britannici  Dux. 
Prselio  occisus  a.d.  1809.'  The  Paseo 
de  Sta.  Margarita  commands  extensive 
views  on  the  Bay  del  Orzan  and  Torre 
de  Hercules,  on  the  site  of  a  Phoenician 
pharos,  which  rises  1  m.  N.W.  of  the 
town,  and  was  repaired  by  order  of 
Trajan.  The  present  one  has  been  con- 
siderably improved,  is  393  ft.  high,  and 
can  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  12  m. 
There  is  a  good  theatre  (Coliseo  S.  Jorge) ; 
a  large  tobacco  manufactory,  established 
1808,  which  turns  out  some  898,000  lbs. 
annually,  employs  3000  women,  and  is 
worth  a  visit.  The  public  edifices  are 
most  indifferent  The  churches  are: 
Santiago,  in  the  upper  town,  of  the  11th 
century ;  observe  the  S.  door,  the  apse 
and  pulpit.  The  Colegiata,  Gothic 
(1256),  but  with  a  good  Byzantine  W. 


porch,  and  a  lofty  tower.  Convent  of 
Sta.  Barbara,  a  fine  basso-relievo  of 
15th  century,  over  a  lateral  door.  Con- 
vent of  San  Francisco,  where  Philip  II. 
lodged  when  he  came  here  to  embark 
for  England,  1551,  and  now  turned  into 
a  presidio;  and  in  the  San  Jorge,  an 
old  Jesuit  church,  some  pictures  (An- 
nunciation and  Purgatory)  of  Peter 
Vanderlaken. 

Historical  Notice. — La  Corufia,  for- 
merly called  La  Cruna  (corona),  and 
Groyne  by  the  English,  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  by  the  Phoenicians,  and 
was  taken  by  the  Romans,  A.u.0.  693. 
Here,  July  26,  1386,  John  of  Gaunt 
landed,  to  claim  the  crown  of  Castile  in 
right  of  his  wife,  the  daughter  of  Pedro 
el  Cruel.  Here,  May  1588,  the  Invin- 
cible Armada  was  refitted.  It  was  com- 
posed of  136  ships  (59,120  tons),  armed 
with  3165  guns,  and  manned  by  8252 
sailors,  2000  volunteers,  2088  galley- 
slaves,  20,000  veteran  troops,  and  ac- 
companied, besides,  by  290  monks, 
priests,  and  familiars,  sent  to  convert 
the  English  people,  and  also  attend 
to  the  spiritual  want  of  the  army ;  but 
the  Drakes,  Frobishers,  and  Hawkinses 
made  great  havoc  among  the  Spaniards, 
and  completed  the  work  of  destruction 
which  the  elements  had  begun.  No 
doubt  can  be  entertained  but  that  this 
expedition  was,  and  may  be  again,  a 
great  lesson  to  England,  for  had  not 
the  Spaniards  lost  time  in  waiting  for  the 
Duke  of  Parma's  flotilla,  the  invading 
army  would  have  landed  undisturbed 
on  the  7th  August,  and,  under  the 
most  favourable  circumstances  of  sea 
and  weather,  would  have  marched  on 
to  London,  and  easily  have  destroyed 
the  capital  of  the  hated  '  Inglesa ; '  for 
the  so-often-repeated  'Bellona-like'  ap- 
pearance of  the  Queen,  her  address  to 
the  troops,  etc.,  was  not  till  eleven  days 
afterwards,  and  on  the  5th  no  army,  not 
even  the  body-guard  of  the  Queen,  had 


CORUKA. 


127 


been  assembled ;  and  Leicester,  with 
only  4000  men  to  oppose  to  20,000,  was 
but  just  commencing  his  entrenched 
camp  at  Tilbury.  Philip  II.,  on  learn- 
ing the  fate  of  that  expedition,  which 
had  been  framed  with  so  much  care 
and  at  so  great  an  expense,  betrayed 
as  little  concern  as  he  did  again  when 
the  victory  of  Lepanto  was  announced 
to  him  at  the  Escorial.  Both  events 
were  but  the  will  of  God,  and  on  both 
occasions  of  joy  and  sorrow  his  great 
Christian  soul  checked  his  pride,  and 
made  them  weigh  equally  before  God. 

La  Coruna  fell  a  prey  to  Drake  and 
Norris,  April  20,  1589 ;  and  here  again 
was  fought  the  battle  of  La  Coruna, 
Jan.  16,  1809,  between  Sir  John  Moore, 
at  the  head  of  14,300  men,  and  Soult, 
who  commanded  20,000.  The  British 
infantry  occupied  the  inferior  range 
of  the  Etvifia  hills.  The  right,  formed 
by  Baird's  division,  approached  the 
enemy,  while  the  centre  and  left  were  of 
necessity  withheld  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  French  battery  on  the  rocks 
raked  the  whole  of  the  line.  General 
Hope's  division,  crossing  the  main 
road,  prolonged  the  line  of  the  right's 
wing.  The  reserve  was  drawn  up  near 
Eiris,  in  the  rear  of  the  centre.  General 
Fraser's  division  remained  on  theheights 
immediately  before  the  gates  of  the  city. 
The  action  was  hard.  General  Baird 
defeated  Foy  at  Elvina,  and  Paget  re- 
pulsed La  Houssaye ;  and  had  General 
Fraser's  division  been  brought  into 
action  towards  night,  and  when  the 
French  were  already  falling  back  in 
confusion,  they  would  have  been  most 
signally  defeated  ;  but  Sir  John  Moore 
was  wounded,  and  so  was  General  Baird ; 
and  Sir  John  Hope,  who  now  com- 
manded the  forces,  pursued  the  original 
plan  of  embarking  during  the  nighty 
which  operation  took  place  in  the  most 
admirable  order,  so  that  when  the 
French  approached  the  town,  which  the 


inhabitants  faithfully  maintained  foi 
some  hours,  the  English,  to  their  sur- 
prise, were  seen  sailing  lustily  on  the 
main.  The  English  lost  about  800 
men,  and  the  French  some  3000.  This 
battle  and  retreat  have  been  the  cause 
of  much  and  often  angry  controversy. 
Setting  aside  the  opinions  of  the  highest 
English  military  authorities,  all  favour- 
able to  Moore,  we  shall  only  quote 
what  his  opponent,  Marshal  Soult,  has 
said  of  him,  (Ses  dispositions  furent 
toujours  les  plus  convenables  aux  cir- 
constances,  et  en  profitant  habilement 
des  avantages  que  les  localites  pouvaient 
lui  fournir  pour  seconder  sa  valeur,  il 
m'opposa  partout  la  resistance  la  plus 
4nergique  et  la  mieux  calcuMe ;  c'est 
ainsi  qu'il  trouva  une  mort  glorieuse 
devant  La  Corogne  au  milieu  d'un  com- 
bat qui  doit  honorer  son  souvenir.' 

Whilst  being  carried  to  his  lodgings, 
the  gallant  wounded  soldier  used  to  ask 
at  intervals  if  the  French  were  beaten, 
and  being  told  they  were,  he  expressed 
a  great  satisfaction. 

'His  countenance  continued  firm,  and 
his  thoughts  clear  ;  once  only,  when  he 
spoke  of  his  mother,  he  became  agi- 
tated.' His  last  words  were,  'I  hope 
the  people  of  England  will  be  satisfied. 
I  hope  my  country  will  to-day  do  me 
justice. '  '  The  battle  was  scarcely  ended 
when  his  corpse,  wrapped  in  a  military 
cloak,  was  interred  by  the  officers  of  his 
staff  in  the  citadel  of  Coruna. ' — Napier's 
History  of  the  Peninsular  War,  vol  i 

Excursion  to  El  Ferrol.  —  A.  By 
land,  33  m.  Bail  as  far  as  Betanzos.  A 
charming  ride,  amid  orange  groves, 
through  Puentedeume,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Eume,  with  a  fine  bridge.  Cape 
Prior  is  seen  in  the  distance  on  the 
left,  standing  N.W.  of  Ferrol  and  next 
Cape  Priorino,  which  form  the  entrance 
to  the  port  Follow  up  the  beach  to 
the  city. 


A 


128 


ESCORIAL. 


B.  By  sea.  A  steamer  leaves  once 
a -day ;  the  passage  is  1  \  hr. 

Ferrol.—  Pop.  about  26,000.  (Prov. 
of  Corufia.)  Cadiz,  Cartagena,  and 
Ferrol  are  the  three  great  naval  depart- 
ments into  which  Spain  is  divided, 
which  are  themselves  subdivided  into 
eleven  tercios,  then  provincial,  and 
lastly,  distritos  maritimos.  The  present 
departamento  comprises  all  the  ports 
and  arsenals  of  northern  Spain. 

Inn:  Fonda  Suiza,  Calle  Real.  El 
Ferrol,  the  name  of  which  is  derived 
from  el  farol,  the  lighthouse,  was 
a  mere  fishing  village  before  1752, 
when  its  excellent  port  and  situation 
drew  the  attention  of  Government 
Very  extensive  dockyards  (darsenas) 
were  built,  which  exceed  forty  acres  in 
extent  The  town  itself  is  divided  into 
three  parts — the  old,  the  new,  and  the 
esteiro.  It  is  strongly  fortified,  and 
considered  impregnable ;  notwithstand- 
ing which,  it  ought  and  would  have 
been  taken  in  August  1800,  by  Ad- 
miral Warren  and  General  Pulteney, 
had  they  not  lost  time  and  good 
weather  in  obtaining  possession  of 
minor  and  unimportant  points,  such  as 
Grafia  and  Fort  San  Felipe.  It  was 
taken  by  Soult  in  1809,  after  six  days' 
blockade  ;  and  the  same  year  Hothani 
took  possession  of  it  with  a  mere  hand- 
ful of  men.  The  town  is  slowly  im- 
proving, but  would  do  so  much  more 
rapidly  if  the  Government  made  it  a 
trading  port,  and  not  exclusively  mili- 
tary. 


The  dockyards  are  also  gradually 
recovering  from  their  former  desolation 
and  absence  of  material,  and  the  most 
recent  improvements  introduced  in 
ship-building  by  England  and  France 
are  being  adopted  with  intelligence  and 
activity. 

Admittance  to  visit  the  darsenas, 
astilleros,  etc.,  is  to  be  easily  obtained 
on  application  to  the  authorities.  They 
are  entered  at  Puerta  del  Parque,  leaving 
to  the  right  the  Salas  de  las  Armas. 
The  dockyard  is  divided  into  a  smaller 
outward  and  a  larger  inward  portion. 
Behind  are  the  dwellings  of  the  opera- 
tives, and  in  the  N.  angle  are  the  found- 
ries, rope-walks,  and  magazines.  Visit 
the  gradas  de  construction  or  ship-slips, 
the  esteiro,  the  timber  depdts  of  Carran- 
za,  Carragon,  etc. 

There  is  a  pretty  Alameda  and  Fuente 
del  Dique  (water  here  is  delicious),  a 
well-proportioned  church  of  San  Julian, 
and  some  well-conducted  naval  estab- 
lishments, such  as  the  Hospital,  Bar- 
racks, de  Guardas  Marinas,  etc. 

Books  of  Reference. — 1.  '  Historia  y 
description  de  la  C.  de  la  Corufia,'  by 
Vedia  and  Goossens  ;  Corufia,  Puga, 
1845.  Very  well  written,  and  abound- 
ing in  curious  and  useful  information. 

2.  Ferrol. — '  Historia  y  Description' ; 
Arostegui 

3.  The  novels  of  Dona  E.  Pardo  de 
Bazan  ;  also  the  '  Cantionero  Gallego, ' 
by  Perez  Ballesteros,  in  the  Biblioteca 
de  Tradiciones  Populares. 


ESCORIAL. 


Prov.  of  Madrid,  diocese  of  Toledo, 
pop.  1726,  including  both  villages. 

Route  and  Conv. — It  will  be  advis- 
able to  visit  the  Escorial  whilst  at 
Madrid.  There  are  three  trains  daily, 
starting  from  the  Estacion  del  Norte, 
Madrid,  besides  extra  ones  on  holidays; 


distance,  51  kiL  ;  fares,  1st  cl.,  pes. 
5.90  ;  2d  ol.,  pes.  4.40.  Time,  lj  hr. 
Omnibuses  are  found  in  attendance 
at  the  station,  which  convey  travellers 
to  the  village  of  Escorial  in  20  min.  for 
2r.  a  head,  and  2r.  large  trunks,  lr. 
smaller,  and  £r.  for  hat-boxes,  etc. 


< 

i 


PALACE. 

.L  COCHT  OP  THE  PXIJlCE. 


TRBOLOGICAL  BILL. 

RKFECTOKY. 


ESCORIAL  -  MONASTERY. 


129 


Innfi.— La  Miranda,  Calle  Florida' 
Blanca;  Fonda  Nueva,  Calle  Pegue- 
rinos  ;  La  Rosa :  all  fair,  La  Miranda 
much  the  best.  All  the  hotels  are  near 
the  Escorial,  in  the  Escorial  de  Arriba. 
Good  caf6  and  cercle  at  the  Miranda. 

A  cicerone  is  no  longer  a  necessary 
evil,  as  each  portion  of  the  building  is 
shown  by  an  intelligent  official ;  and 
the  old  regulation  demanding  a  card 
of  admission,  to  be  procured  before- 
hand, at  some  delay,  has  been  abolished. 
The  Escorial  can  be  seen  in  a  day, 
but  a  couple  of  days  are  well  spent 
in  it 

The  hours  for  visiting  the  different 
portions  of  the  Escorial  are — Church 
and  Pantheon— O^en.  from  10  a.m.  to 
12  p.m.,  and  from  2  p.m.  to  4  p.m.  ; 
Palace  shown  about  1  p.m.  Orders 
(papeletas)  for  Palace  and  Casita  ob- 
tained, free,  at  No.  3  Calle  de  la  Parada. 
General  Description. — There  are 
two  small  villages  close  to  each  other 
which  bear  the  name  of  El  Escorial, 
derived  from  the  scoriae  of  iron,  vestiges 
from  former  iron-mines.  They  are  dis 
tinguished  by  Escorial  de  Abajo  and 
that  of  Arriba,  which  latter  comprises 
several  miserable  granite-built  houses 
and  half-ruined  edifices,  used  in  other 
times  as  cavalry -barracks,  etc.  The 
Escorial  is  a  sitio  real,  or  royal  residence, 
and  is  called  from  that,  and  from  the 
Palace  and  Monastery,  'San  Lorenzo 
el  Real.'  There  is  still  a  season  or 
temporada  during  the  summer  months, 
and  were  there  better  hotels  and  some 
comforts,  its  pinares  and  chestnut  woods 
would  be  a  greatresource  to  the  parched - 
up  Madrilenos  ;  and  if  the  archives  of 
the  kingdom  could  be  removed  hither 
from  out-of-the-way  Simancas,  many 
advantages  would  be  gained  by  travel- 
lers, nacionales,  the  villagers  themselves, 
and  not  a  little  for  the  edifices,  which 
are  sadly  neglected. 
The  Sights    are,     the    Monastery, 

K 


comprising  the  Church,  Pantheon, 
Library,  and  the  Palace ;  the  Casita  del 
Principe  ;  the  more  indifferent  Silla  de 
Felipe  II,  La  Fresneda,  etc. 

Monastery. — This  stupendous  edi- 
fice— a  mountain  of  granite  shaped  into 
a  palace,  a  church,  and  a  convent,  the 
leviathan  of  architecture — is  reckoned 
by  Spaniards  as  the  eighth  marvel  of 
the  world.  It  nevertheless  belongs  to 
that  class  of  the  oppressive  sublime  and 
gigantic,  which,  whether  in  nature  or 
art,  awes  or  strikes  at  first,  and  then 
very  soon  only  causes  ennui.  To  under- 
stand the  Escorial  it  is  necessary  to  have 
studied  deeply  and  most  impartially  the 
character  and  genius  of  its  founder ;  for 
this  is  not  a  monument  which  is  the 
expression  of  an  age  or  a  people,  but 
bears  the  stamp  of  a  man  of  a  special 
train  of  thought  and  feeling.  Philip 
II.  must  be  judged  not  in  the  light  of 
the  19th,  but  in  that  of  the  16th  cen< 
tury.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the  Esco 
rial  existed  already,  ideally,  in  the 
mind  of  his  grandmother,  Crazy  Jane, 
whose  morbid  devotion  verged  on  in- 
sanity, and  in  Charles  V.'s  early  and 
constant  desire  to  retire  into  seclusion, 
and  his  death  in  a  convent.  Spain  must 
be  in  a  manner  explained  by  the  East, 
and  never  by  the  North,  as  it  too  often 
is.  And  thus,  after  the  fashion  of  the 
Eastern  sultans,  the  Spanish  kings  have 
always  sought  the  seclusion  of  their 
palaces,  which  their  piety  and  the  bur- 
den of  sovereignty  turned  into  convents. 
The  Monastery  of  the  Escorial  is  the 
expression  of  Philip's  character,  never 
perfectly  understood  by  historians.  Suf- 
fice it,  for  the  present,  to  observe  that 
as  he  was  the  proudest  among  kings, 
and  the  most  devout  amongst  monks,  it 
was  not  all  his  fault  if  he  built  convents 
that  look  like  palaces,  and  palaces  that 
were  also  convents.  The  Escorial  was 
built  in  compliance  with  the  desire 


130 


ESCORIAL — MONASTERY, 


often  expressed  by  Charles  V.  to  Philip, 
to  have  a  burial-house  for  him  and  his 
descendants,  and  as  a  solemn  act  of 
gratitude  to  his  patron  saint,  St.  Law- 
rence, to  whose  protection  he  ascribed 
the  victory  of  San  Quintin,  which  hap- 
pened on  that  saint's  very  day  (Aug. 
10,  1557).  It  was  not  a  panic-inspired 
vow,  as  has  so  often  been  repeated, 
made  during  the  action,  nor  was  there 
any  church  of  St  Laurent  destroyed 
during  the  action.  The  battle  was  won 
by  Philibert  of  Savoy,  and  Philip  II. 
arrived  only  four  days  after  the  victory. 
The  founder's  *  Carta  de  Dotacion,'  in 
Cabrera's  '  Vida  de  Felipe  II.,'  written 
and  signed  by  Philip,  contains  all  his 
reasons  for  founding  the  EscoriaL  It 
runs  thus  : — 

'In  acknowledgement  of  the  many 
and  great  blessings  which  it  has  pleased 
God  to  heap  on  us  and  continue  to  us 
daily,  and,  inasmuch  as  He  has  been 
pleased  to  direct  and  guide  our  deeds 
and  acts  to  his  Holy  service,  and  in 
maintenance  and  defence  of  His  holy 
faith  and  religion,  and  of  justice  and 
peace  within  our  realms ;  considering, 
likewise,  what  the  emperor  and  king, 
my  lord  and  father,  in  a  codicil  which 
he  lately  made,  committed  to  our  care, 
and  charged  us  with,  respecting  his 
tomb,  the  spot  and  place  where  his 
body  and  that  of  the  empress  and 
queen,  my  lady  and  mother,  should  be 
placed  ;  it  being  just  and  meet  that 
their  bodies  should  be  most  duly  hon- 
oured with  a  befitting  burial-ground, 
and  that  for  their  souls  be  said  continu- 
ally, masses,  prayers,  anniversaries,  and 
other  holy  records,  and  because  we 
have,  besides,  determined  that  when- 
ever it  may  please  God  to  take  us  away 
to  Him,  our  body  should  rest  in  the 
same  place  and  spot  near  theirs  .  .  . 
for  all  these  reasons  we  found  and  erect 
the  Monastery  of  St.  Lorenzo  el  Real, 
near  the  town  of  El  Escorial,  in  the 


diocese  and  archbishopric  of  Toledo, 
the  which  we  dedicate  in  the  name  of 
the  Blessed  St.  Lawrence,  on  account 
of  the  special  devotion  which,  as  we 
have  said,  we  pray  to  this  glorious 
saint,  and  in  memory  of  the  favour  and 
victories  which  on  his  day  we  received 
from  God.  Moreover,  we  found  it  for 
the  order  of  St.  Jerome,  on  account  of  our 
special  affection  and  respect  for  this  order, 
and  that  which  was  also  bestowed  upon 
it  by  the  emperor  and  king,  my  father. ' 
For  two  years  he  was  looking  for 
some  spot,  in  the  vicinity  of  Madrid, 
which  might  be  favourable  to  his  pur- 
pose, and  at  last  fixed  on  the  wild, 
rocky,  and  secluded  pine-clad  slopes  of 
the  Guadarrama — the  very  frame  for 
such  a  picture.  Juan  Bautista  de  To- 
ledo was  called  from  Naples,  and  en- 
trusted with  the  design.  The  first 
stone  was  laid  on  April  23,  1565,  and 
on  August  20  the  church  was  begun. 
The  real  designer  was  Philip  himself, 
who  was  a  man  of  great  and  pure  taste, 
an  enlightened  and  generous  patron  of 
artists.  He  used  to  come  frequently 
from  Madrid  to  watch  the  progress  of 
his  creation  from  the  summit  of  a  hill 
close  by,  and  suggested  changes,  and 
advised  different  details.  The  erection 
of  this,  the  largest  and  first  great  edi- 
fice in  Spain  into  which  the  Graeco- 
Roman  element  was  cast,  constituted 
an  important  epoch  in  the  history  of 
Spanish  art.  Its  characteristics  are  : 
vast  proportions,  admirable  harmony 
and  unity  of  design,  simplicity,  mas- 
siveness,  grandeur.  Whatever  defects 
or  qualities  are  noticeable  must  be  as- 
cribed to  Philip,  who  influenced  the 
architect's  decision  ;  but  it  must  never 
be  forgotten  what  its  object  was,  the 
means  employed  to  attain  it,  and  the 
general  effect  attending  the  execution. 
In  1567  Toledo  died,  and  his  first  ayu- 
dante,  Juan  de  Herrera,  succeeded 
him.      This  other   great   man   mode 


ESOORIAL — CHURCH. 


131 


several  happy  alterations,  but,  on  the 
whole,  followed  the  original  designs. 
He  was  ably  aided  by  Fray  Antonio  de 
Villacastin,  and  the  building  rapidly 
advancing,  was  completed  13th  Sept. 
1584,  twenty-one  years  after  it  had 
been  begun,  and  at  the  then  enormous 
cost  of  about  £660,000. 

The  edifice  itself — that  is,  without  the 
offices,  etc. — is  a  rectangular  parallelo- 
gram, of  744  ft.  (Span.)  long,  K.  to  S., 
and  580  ft  E.  to  W.  The  square 
covers  3002  ft,  and  a  surface  ground 
of  500,000  ft.  It  is  of  the  Doric  order, 
and  made  entirely  of  Berroquena  stone 
and  of  granite,  of  which  there  are  quar- 
ries in  the  vicinity.  The  distribution 
is  thus  : — The  quadrangles  were  divided 
into  three  parts  from  E.  to  W.  ;  that 
in  the  middle  formed  the  church,  por- 
tico, and  principal  entrance ;  that 
towards  the  S.  was  made  into  five 
cloisters ;  the  part  to  the  N.  was  di- 
vided into  two  portions,  one  allotted  to 
the  habitation  of  ladies  and  gentlemen 
of  the  household,  and  the  other  to  the 
convent  and  offices.  On  the  E.  side 
Toledo  drew  forth  and  out  from  the 
line  another  square  for  the  palace, 
which  also  comprised  the  high  chapel 
of  the  church,  so  that  tribunes  should 
be  made  into  it  from  the  royal  apart- 
ments. Thus  the  colossal  edifice  was 
divided  ;  from  its  angles  and  centre 
spring  eight  towers,  about  200  ft.  high, 
and  it  is  crowned  by  the  cupola  or 
cimborio  of  the  church. 

The  facades  are  majestic,  but  some- 
what, as  a  French  author  says,  ( of  an 
awful  simplicity.'  The  western  one  is 
the  finest,  60  ft  high  and  740  ft  long. 
It  has  two  towers  at  the  angles,  and 
three  noble  entrances.  The  eastern 
facade  has  nothing  to  characterise  it 
except  the  back  of  the  high  church  and 
its  front.  The  S.  facade  is  the  most 
denuded,  and  looks  not  a  little  like  a 
huge  poor-house  or  barracks  ;  and  bar- 


racks they  were,  indeed,  for  300  Jeroni- 
mites,  a  portion  of  the  vast  army  of 
monks,  the  sturdy  soldiers  of  the  faith, 
who  fought  and  won  the  battle  of  the 
mind  against  barbarism,  and  handed 
down  the  knowledge  and  the  practice 
of  Christianity.  The  N.  side  has  three 
spacious  entrances,  leading  to  the  Cole- 
gio  and  Palace.  Everything  in  the 
edifice  is  on  a  colossal  scale.  Suffice  it 
to  state  that  there  are  16  courts,  40 
altars,  1111  windows  outside,  1562 
inside ;  1200  doors,  15  cloisters,  86 
staircases,  3000  ft.  of  fresco-painting, 
89  fountains,  and  about  32  leagues  of 
surface  to  walk  upon.  It  is  an  error  to 
suppose  that  the  strong-minded  archi- 
tects ever  intended  to  represent  in  its 
general  shape  a  reversed  gridiron,  the 
instrument  of  St  Lorenzo's  martyrdom 
— it  is  purely  imaginative.  The  roofs 
are  covered  with  slates  and  lead. 

Principal  Entrance  is  the  W.  one. 
Over  the  portico  are  the  libraries. 
Enter  now  the 

Patio  de  los  Reyes.— Is  230  ft  long 
by  136  ft.  wide — so  called  from  six 
colossal  statues  representing  the  six 
kings  of  the  house  of  David ;  indiffer- 
ently executed  by  Monegro  in  granite, 
with  portions  in  white  marble  and 
crowns  and  insignia  in  gilt  bronze. 
That  of  the  tutelar  saint,  placed  over 
the  portal,  is  also  by  the  same. 

The  Church  (Templo)  was  begun 
in  1563  and  finished  in  1586.  It  is 
considered  the  masterpiece  of  Herrera, 
and  the  triumph  of  the  Greeco-Roman 
applied  to  Christian  temples.  It  is 
320  ft.  long,  230  ft.  wide,  and  320 
ft  high  to  the  top  of  the  cupola.  It  is 
all  granite  and  of  the  Doric  style  ;  the 
greatest  simplicity  prevails,  and  ma- 
jesty, height,  and  vast  proportions  are 
its  characteristics.  The  form  is  a 
square  basilica,  assuming  the  shape  of  a 
Greek  cross.      The  roof  rests  on  four 


132 


ESCORIAL — CHURCH. 


very  massive  square  piers,  which  corre- 
spond to  eight  others  placed  in  the  walls. 
Over  all  these  run  twenty-four  arches, 
forming  six  naves,  so  combined  that 
three  naves  are  seen  from  every  part  of 
the  temple.  The  two  principal  naves 
form  the  Greek  cross,  and  are  53  ft. 
wide  and  113  ft.  high. 

The  Chapels  and  Altars. — The  first 
on  the  left,  called  De  los  Doctores,  has 
live  altars  with  pictures  of  saints  by 
Alonso  Sanchez  Coello  and  two  by  Luis 
de  Carbajal.  The  tomb  and  statue  of  the 
Infanta  Dona  Carlota  are  indifferent. 
In  that  of  El  Patrocinio  are  also  several 
pictures  of  female  saints  by  the  same 
painters.  See,  besides,  several  others 
by  Pelegrino  Tibaldi,  and  by  Luca 
Cangiagi,  and  Luis  de  Carbajal,  who 
followed  £1  Mudo's  manner.  No- 
tice especially  all  those  by  this  latter 
(Juan  Fernandez  Navarette),  who  is  to 
be  sought  for  here  ;  admire  his  St. 
Philip  and  Santiago,  St  Barnabas  and 
St.  Mathias  on  the  last  pier,  Santiago 
and  St.  Andrew  (signed  and  dated 
1577),  SS.  Simon  and  Judas,  SS.  Bar- 
tholomew and  Thomas,  etc.,  all  very 
fine,  richly-coloured  Titian -like,  and 
powerfully  rendered.  The  others  are 
by  Zuccharo,  Gomez,  and  Sanchez 
Coello,  who  painted  the  following  : — 
SS.  Paula  and  Monica,  SS.  Catherine 
and  In6s,  SS.  Ambrosio  and  Gregorio, 
SS.  Basilio  and  Atanasio,  Geronimo 
anl  Augustin,  the  former  as  a  cardinal 
and  the  latter  as  a  bishop,  looking  at- 
tentively at  a  child  who  is  filling  a  hole 
in  the  sands  with  water  issuing  from  a 
shell  (signed  and  dated  1580) ;  SS. 
Paul  and  Anthony  in  the  'Wilderness 
fed  by  a  crow  (signed  and  dated  1582) ; 
SS.  Lorenzo  and  Esteban,  and  dressed 
as  deacons  (signed  and  dated  1580) ; 
St.  Vincent  and  St.  George,  etc. 

Observe  here  the  small  chapel  on  the 
gospel  side  of  the  high  altar  where  lies 
the  late  Queen  Mercedes.    Also  the  gold 


cross  presented  by  the  British  residents 
in  Madrid.  The  pulpits,  which  replaced 
the  portable  one  originally  used,  were  the 
gift  of  Ferdinand  YII. ;  they  are  made  of 
alabaster  and  the  richest  marbles,  orna- 
mented with  mezzo-relievo  medallions, 
pillarets,  etc.,  in  gilt  bronze.  They  are 
sadly  out  of  keeping  with  the  other 
sober,  quiet,  simple  portions  of  the 
church,  and  are  of  no  artistic  value  in 
themselves,  though  exhibiting  glorious 
specimens  of  the  Spanish  marbles. 

The  Organs, — There  are  two— one 
upon  either  side  of  the  nave.  Origin- 
ally the  work  of  the  Flemish  builder 
Maese  Gil,  they  are  said  to  have  been 
some  time  very  good.  Now,  however, 
they  are  hopelessly  out  of  repair — in 
fact  can  no  longer  be  used. 

The  vaulted  roof,  or  boveda,  was  ori- 
ginally stuccoed  white  and  dotted  with 
blue  stars.  In  the  reign  of  Charles  II. 
its  compartments  were  painted  alfresco 
by  Giordano,  happily  surnamed  Lucca 
Fa  Presto,  who  is  said  to  have  finished 
all  his  work  in  the  Escorial  in  seven 
months.  There  are  eight  compositions, 
representing  subjects  from  Holy  Writ 
and  allegorical.  The  composition  is 
good,  the  execution  hurried,  yet  faith- 
ful, and  the  colouring  very  fine,  though 
somewhat  tarnished  by  damp. 

The  High  Chapel  is  70  ft.  wide  by  50 
ft.  long,  and  comprises  the  high  altar 
and  oratorios.  In  the  centre  rises  a 
flight  of  red-stained  steps,  steeper  than 
was  intended,  but  to  afford  space  for  a 
cupola  under  it  for  the  pantheon,  and 
that  in  this  manner  the  wish  of  Philip 
might  be  accomplished,  that  mass  should 
be  daily  said  over  the  bodies  of  the 
kings.  The  altar  is  made  of  precious 
marbles  and  inlaid  jasper,  covered  with 
a  jasper  stone  of  one  whole  piece.  It 
stands  isolated.  At  the  sides  are  doors 
with  jasper  jambs,  etc.,  and  beautifully 
inlaid  mahogany,  which  lead  to  the 
sagrario.     On  the  back  of  the  altar  is 


ESOORIAL — CHURCH. 


133 


the  consecration  stone  of  the  church, 
which  act  was  performed  by  Clement 
VIII.  's  nuncio.  The  rctablo  is  glorious, 
and  the  pictures  deserve  close  inspec- 
tion, however  difficult  it  be  on  account 
of  the  bad  light  and  dark  wood  and 
jaspers.  It  is  93  ft.  high  and  94  ft 
wide,  of  the  four  orders,  and  composed 
of  red  granite,  precious  jaspers,  and  gilt 
bronze.  It  is  the  masterpiece  of  the 
Milanese  Giacomo  Trezzo,  who  here  em- 
ployed to  perfection  and  great  effect  all 
the  orders  of  classic  architecture  except 
the  Tuscan.  The  tabernaculo  was  de- 
signed by  Herrera  and  executed  by 
Trezzo,  who  finished  it  in  seven  years. 
The  pictures,  of  no  great  merit,  are  by 
^ellegrino  Tibaldi  (subjects,  Nativity, 
Adoration,  Martyrdom  of  St  Lorenzo), 
and  the  rest  by  Zuccharo.  The  '  Scourg- 
ing' is  the  best  work  of  Zuccharo's  at 
the  Escorial,  and  not  as  dry,  cold,  and 
raw  as  his  paintings  always  are.  The 
statues  are  by  Leon  Leoni  and  his  son 
Pompeio,  1588.  The  altar  cost  about 
£40,000. 

Sagrario. — There  are  some  indifferent 
frescoes  by  Tibaldi,  and  some  very  rich 
Spanish  marbles  and  jaspers.  The  sag- 
rario constitutes  the  coulisses  of  the 
religious  spectacle  on  great  festivals 
offered  to  devout  and  sensual  piety;  and 
here  from  behind  these  screens,  walls, 
and  curtains,  the  sacristanes,  those  able 
scene-shifters,  prepare  the  lights,  incen- 
sories, place  and  remove  the  vases,  and 
alternately  draw,  diminish,  or  change 
the  curtains  and  many-coloured  veils, 
placed  before  the  window  and  calculated 
to  mitigate  or  graduate  the  light,  ac- 
cording to  the  nature  of  the  festival. 

The  reliecurio  is  one  of  the  richest  in 
Spain  :  much  of  the  valuable  matter, 
gold  vases,  ornaments,  precious  stones, 
etc.,  were  carried  away  by  General 
Houssaye  and  his  troops  ;  they  took  the 
flesh  and  left  the  bones.  However,  these 
constitute  the  real  value,  and  are  gold 


and  caviare  to  the  vulgar.  Amongst 
other  butin  de  guerre  was  a  statue  called 
La  Matrona  or  La  Mesina,  given  by  the 
inhabitants  of  Messina  to  Philip  III., 
weighing  220  lbs.  silver,  which  held  in 
her  right  hand  a  golden  custodia  weigh- 
ing 26  lbs.,  besides  a  heavy  crown  with 
rubies  and  other  precious  stones,  and, 
moreover,  forty-seven  of  the  richest 
vases.  There  are  now  about  7421  relics, 
amongst  which  are  ten  whole  bodies, 
144  heads,  806  whole  arms  and  legs,  etc. 
See  the  fine  Area  del  Monumento,  which 
formerly  possessed  twenty-six  invalu- 
able Greek  cameos,  one  of  the  real  bars 
of  San  Lorenzo's  gridiron,  the  femur  of 
this  saint  with  portions  of  his  flesh 
roasted  and  broiled  {tostado  y  asado), 
and  one  of  his  feet  with  a  bit  of  coal 
between  the  toes,  etc. 

Oratorios  and  Enticrros  Rcales. — On 
each  side  of  the  altar  are  placed  the  ora- 
torios, low  chambers  or  tribunes  of  dark 
marble  for  the  use  of  royal  persons  when 
they  come  to  hear  mass.  That  on  the 
left  was  used  by  Philip  II.,  and  in  a 
small  and  narrow  room'  close  to  it  he 
expired.  Above,  and  about  12  ft.  high, 
are  placed  the  bronze  gilt  and  painted 
effigies  of  the  kings,  all  kneeling.  On 
the  right  of  the  altar  are  five  statues. 
The  first  is  that  of  Charles  V.,  kneeling 
on  a  cushion,  and  close  to  him  are,  to 
the  right,  the  Empress  Isabella,  mother 
of  Philip  II. ;  behind,  his  daughter  the 
Empress  Maria,  and  his  sisters  Eleonora 
and  Maria.  On  the  left  of  the  altar  are 
the  statues  of  Philip  II. ;  on  his  right  is 
his  fourth  wife,  Anna,  mother  of  Philip 
III. ;  behind,  his  third  wife,  Isabella ; 
on  the  right  of  latter  his  first  wife,  Dona 
Maria  of  Portugal,  mother  of  Don 
Carlos,  and  behind  her  is  this  prince, 
immortalised  by  Schiller,  but  who  was, 
historically  speaking,  a  poor  imbecile 
much  taken  care  of  by  his  father.  These 
statues  are  portraits,  aud  very  remark- 
able for  the  execution,  likenesses,  and 


134 


ESCORIAL — CHURCH. 


details  of  embroidery  ;  observe  also  the 
plumage  of  the  eagles,  etc.  They  were 
all  the  work  of  Pompeio  Leoni,  who  was 
paid  for  them  about  £15, 000.  The  Latin 
inscriptions  are  by  Arias  Montano. 

Ante  Sacristia. — Indifferent  ceiling, 
finely  painted  by  Granello  and  Fabricio. 
The  pictures  are  mostly  copies  from  the 
Italian  schools — a  Sibyl,  the  Prophet 
Isaiah,  a  Virgin  and  Child,  etc  There 
are,  however,  one  or  two  paintings 
worth  looking  at : — a  San  Juan  Crisos- 
tomo,  by  the  Toledan  Carvajal ;  a  San 
Juan  de  Dios,  sketch  or  duplicate  by 
Giordano  ;  an  Adoration  by  the  same ; 
and  a  San  Geronimo  ascribed  to  Ribera. 
Belowthe  pictures  are  some  tables  setting 
forth  the  manifold  advantages,  in  the 
shape  of  indulgences,  to  be  gained  by 
visiting  the  church  in  an  orthodox  spirit 

From  this  anteroom  we  pass  into  the 
Sacristia,  a  fine  room  108  feet  long  and 
82  feet  wide.  Note  the  arabesques  of 
the  frescoed  ceiling,  by  Granello  and 
Fabricio.  Twenty -six  of  the  finest 
paintings  formerly  here  were  removed 
to  the  Picture  Gallery  of  Madrid,  and 
some  others  have  been  put  in  the  Salas 
Capitulares.  The  best  of  those  remain- 
ing are  the  following : — 

63.  St.  Francis  of  Assisi,  by  Do- 
menichino,  £1  Greco. 

64.  St  Peter  of  Alcantara,  by  Zur- 
baran. 

65.  St.  Francis  of  Assisi  in  the 
desert,  by  Zurbaran. 

66.  St.  Paul,  by  Zurbaran. 

71.  A  copy  of  Raphael's  Trans- 
figuration. 

76.  St.  Peter  in  Gaol,  said  to  be  a 
replica  by  Ribera.  77.  The  two  St. 
Johns,  ascribed  to  Grecco,  are  of  his 
early  style. 

81.  Jesus  bearing  the  Cross,  ascribed 
to  Guido  Reni. 

83.  St  Gerome,  ascribed  to  Ribera. 

85.  Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Vero- 
nese. 


86.  A  Mystical  Subject,  by  Tinto 
retto. 

88.  Crucifixion,  by  Titian. 

89.  Mystical  Subject,  by  Veronese. 

90.  St  Eugenio,  Archbishop  of  To- 
ledo, by  El  Grecco. 

92.  Sari  Onofre,  by  Ribera  ;  signed. 

93.  Magdalen  Penitent,  Tintoretto. 
98.  St  John  in  the  Desert,  Titian. 
101.  Virgin  and  St.  Joseph  Watching 

the  Child  asleep,  Veronese. 

103.  Burial  of  Christ,  Ribera. 

The  No.  84  is  called  La  Santa  Forma, 
placed  at  the  S.  end  of  the  room.  On 
the  altar  is  kept  the  wafer  which  bled 
miraculously  at  Gorcum  (Holland)  in 
1525,  when  it  was  trodden  under  foot 
by  Zuinglian  partisans.  It  was  taken 
up,  and  after  being  some  time  at  Prague 
and  Vienna,  was  sent  to  Philip  II.  by  the 
Emperor  Rudolph  II.  in  1592.  The  large 
painting  was  first  sketched  by  Rizzi,  and 
at  his  death  taken  up  and  modified  by 
Claudio  Coello,  who,  after  seven  years' 
labour,  made  it  his  masterpiece.  The  sub- 
ject is  the  processionand  ceremony  which 
took  place  in  this  very  sacristia  in  the 
presence  of  Charles  II.  All  the  heads 
are  portraits  ;  the  prior's,  holding  the 
custodia,  is  Santos,  one  of  the  earliest 
and  best  historians  of  the  Escorial. 
Behind  Charles  are  the  Duke  of  Me- 
dinaceli,  his  prime  minister,  the  Duke 
of  Pastrana,  etc  It  is  a  very  fine  pic- 
ture, full  of  expressive  vigour,  excel- 
lent perspective,  and  forms  a  page  of 
history  worth  volumes.  It  has  been 
touched  up  in  1846,  and  well  copied  by 
Lopez  for  the  Madrid  Picture  Gallery 
(No.  773).  There  are  some  fine  ternos 
and  other  church  stuffs,  beautifully  em- 
broidered, and  exhibiting  pictures  from 
Holy  Writ  embroidered  in  silk.  Spain 
was  always  celebrated  for  this  kind  of 
embroidery,  and  the  bordaderas  en  oro 
of  this  day  continue  the  good  tradi- 
tions of  that  art,  which  originated  in 
Ciudad  Rodrigo.    Many  of  the  vest- 


ESCORIAL — CHURCH. 


135 


mcnts,  etc.,  in  the  Escorial  were  em- 
broidered after  designs  by  Elmudo, 
Tibaldi,  etc.  There  is  one  valued  by 
Siguenza  at  £45,000. 

The  Camarin  was  erected  in  1692  by 
Olmo  and  Rici,  or  Rizzi.  There  is  a 
glorious  collection  here  of  precious 
marbles,  unrivalled  anywhere  else. 
There  is  a  custodia  containing  above 
10,000  precious  stones,  and  which  cost 
£5000  ;  it  is  a  present  of  Queen  Isa- 
bella and  the  King  Consort,  made  to 
the  monastery  in  1856. 

In  the  Gapitulario  is  a  fine  old  folio, 
written  by  the  monk  Martin  de  Pa- 
lencia,  and  containing  eighteen  fine 
miniatures  by  Andres  de  Leon,  Sala- 
sar,  and  other  great  miniaturists  of  the 
time. 

T?ie  Choir. — Visit  first  the  cmtfrcoros 
placed  on  the  sides  of  the  choir.  The 
statue  of  San  Lorenzo  is  an  indifferent 
Roman  statue  sent  from  Rome,  and 
accorwmocU  to  represent  the  Christian 
hero  ;  the  four  lunetos  or  divisions  are 
painted  by  Giordano.  In  the  other 
ante-coro  is  a  St.  Peter  and  St.  Andrew, 
by  El  Mudo,  and  fresco  ceilings,  also 
by  Giordano.  Close  to  this  the  Libre- 
ria  del  Coro,  where  are  kept  the  colos- 
sal choral  books,  some  of  them  being 
two  yards  wide  ;  each  leaf  was  made 
out  of  the  skiu  of  a  calf.  The  Psalms 
of  Maitines  are  by  Cristobal  Ramirez 
and  others.  The  style  of  letter  or 
writing  is  that  called  peones  by  the  Span- 
ish monkish  caligraphers,  all  very  able 
hands,  and  the  books  date  from  the 
foundation  of  the  Escorial.  They  were 
magnificently  illuminated  by  Andres 
de  Leon  and  his  pupils,  Julian  de  Fu- 
ente-el-Saz  and  Ambrosio  de  Salazar. 
See  especially,  and  as  specimens,  the 
three  Pasionarios  and  Oficio  of  the 
Apostle  Santiago  by  Fuente-el-Saz,  and 
the  Beginning  of  the  Mass  on  the  Day 
of  St.  Simon  and  St.  Judas,  by  Salazar. 
'Chough  many  are  wanting,  and  others 


are  torn,  there  are  still  fine  specimens 
of  monkish  bookbinding  by  the  Pa- 
rises  and  Pedro  del  Bosque.  No.  128, 
A  Christ  Crucified,  by  Navarrete,  of 
little  value,  and  a  curious  diptych  by 
Bosch,  representing  the  Delights  of  this 
World  and  Punishment  of  the  Wicked. 
The  choir  is  placed  at  the  entrance  of 
the  church,  and  continues  the  central 
nave,  and  though  30  ft.  above  the  pave- 
ment, is  still  low  enough  to  allow  spec- 
tators to  follow  the  mass  with  ease.  It 
is  large  and  brightly  lighted  ;  there  are 
two  series  or  rows  of  stalls,  both  be- 
longing to  the  Corinthian  order,  and 
designed  by  Herrera  himself,  and  made 
out  of  ebony,  cedar,  box,  and  other 
choice  sorts  of  wood  ;  they  are  simple 
and  unadorned,  but  very  elegant  and 
well  carved,  especially  the  prior's  stall. 
To  the  S.,  and  close  to  a  small  concealed 
door,  is  the  stall  which  was  used  by 
Philip  II.  ;  and  here  he  was  kneeling, 
absorbed  in  fervent  prayer,  when 
through  that  small  door  a  messenger 
glided  in  bearing  the  news  of  the  vic- 
tory of  Lepanto  ;  but,  as  when  he  re- 
ceived the  tidings  of  the  destruction  of 
the  Armada,  his  countenance  remained 
impassible,  and  he  resumed  his  in- 
terrupted prayers.  The  lateral  fres- 
coes by  Romulus  Cincinato,  represent 
subjects  from  life  of  the  tutelar  and  of 
St  Gerome,  founder  of  the  order,  to 
whose  care  the  monastery  was  entrusted 
by  Philip,  as  they  were  in  great  fa- 
vour with  him,  and  had  been  so  also 
with  Charles  V.  at  Yuste.  The  c  ther 
frescoes  are  by  Luqueto ;  the  ceiling 
is  also  by  him,  and  represents  the 
Bliss  of  Heaven ;  in  a  corner  is  the 
portrait  of  Father  Villacastin,  one  of 
the  Escorial  architects,  and  behind  it 
the  painter  introduced  his  own  ;  upon 
observing  which,  Siguenza  said  that 
he  was  glad  to  see  that  the  artist 
(whose  way  of  living  was  not  very  or- 
thodox) had  placed  himself  in  Paradise 


136 


BSCORIAL — CHURCH. 


beforehand,  for  he  was  much  afraid 
that  he  was  in  so  great  a  hurry  to  make 
money  that  this  could  never  become 
a  reality.  The  crystal  chandelier, 
though  much  ill-treated  by  the  French, 
is  a  fine  specimen,  made  at  Milan,  and 
given  by  Charles  II. 

The  facistol  (lectern)  is  a  present 
from  Charles  II.  The  eagle,  with 
spread  wings,  forming  it,  carries  in  its 
beak  the  gridiron,  emblematic  of  the 
tutelar's  martyrdom.  It  is  classical  in 
style,  but  indifferent  in  execution.  The 
gem  of  this  choir  is  the  beautiful  Car- 
rara marble  crucifix.  It  was  made  by 
Cellini,  and  is  signed  '  Benvenutus  Ze- 
linus  Civis  Florentinus  faciebat,  1562.' 
The  great  Florentine  carved  it  for  his 
lord  and  master,  the  Duke  of  Tuscany, 
who  gave  it  to  Philip  II.  The  artist 
prized  it  much,  and  in  his  autobio- 
graphy he  says  : —  *  Although  I  have 
made  several  marble  statues,  1  shall 
only  mention  one,  from  its  being  of  a 
kind  most  difficult  for  art  to  render — 
that  is  dead  bodies ;  I  speak  of  the 
image  of  Our  Lord  Crucified,  for  which 
I  studied  a  great  deal,  working  upon 
it  with  the  diligence  and  love  that 
so  precious  a  simulacre  deserves,  and 
also  because  I  knew  myself  to  be  the 
first  who  ever  executed  crucifixes  in 
marble. ' 

Pantheon.  —  Descend  a  few  steps, 
which  are,  as  well  as  the  walls,  of 
precious  marbles.  On  the  second  land- 
ing the  door  to  right  leads  to  the  Pan- 
theon de  las  Infantas,  and  that  on  left 
to  Pantheon  de  los  Infantes.  Philip  II. 
built  a  plain  vault,  but  Philip  III.  and 
Philip  IV.,  who  did  not  inherit  the 
ideas  of  simplicity  of  their  sire,  built 
these  theatrical  show-rooms — this  al- 
most ironical  gilding  of  bones,  and 
most  pagan-like  series  of  urns.  There 
is  the  icy  blast  of  death  that  chills 
one's  very  bones,  sombre  darkness, 
something    oppressive   and    repulsive 


amid  these  shining  marbles  and  gill 
bronze  ;  nothing  of  the  feelings  that 
fill  the  soul  and  mind  in  the  presence 
of  the  truly  Christian,  yet  regal  and 
beautiful  tombs  in  mediaeval  cathedrals, 
with  their  sculptured  effigies  praying 
or  asleep. 

This  pantheon  (the  very  name  is 
pagan)  was  completed  in  1654.  Over 
the  portal  is  the  history  of  its  erection, 
'  Locus  sacer  mortalibus  exuviis,'  etc. 
At  the  sides  are  Roman  statues,  alle- 
gorical. One  is  Nature,  and  the  other 
represents  Hope,  with  the  words, 
1  Natura  occidit, '  « Exaltat  Spes. '  The 
Pantheon  itself  is  some  46  ft.  diameter, 
and  38  ft.  high.  The  cupola  is  low, 
owing  to  its  being  placed  just  under 
the  steps  leading  to  the  high  altar. 
It  is  of  the  Composite  order,  after 
designs  by  Marquis  Crescenci.  It  is 
entirely  made  of  marbles  from  Tortosa 
and  Biscay,  and  jasper  from  Toledo,  etc. 
The  altar  is  also  made  of  the  same  mate- 
rial, heightened  here  and  there,  as  else- 
where too,  by  gilt  bronze  ornaments, 
and  an  indifferent  basso-relievo,  repre- 
senting the  Burial  of  Christ,  by  two 
Hieronymite  monks. 

All  round  the  octagonal  chamber  are 
placed  in  rows,  within  niches,  twenty- 
six  marble  urns,  identically  sized,  and 
not  unlike  an  anatomical  collection. 
The  kings  are  placed  on  the  right  of 
altar,  and  queens  on  left,  and  none  save 
kings  and  mothers  of  kings  are  buried 
here,  all  according  to  etiquette  and  strict 
classification,  worthy  of  any  French 
bureau.  There  are  wanting  Philip  V., 
Ferdinand  VI.,  and  their  queens,  who 
are  buried  at  La  Granja  and  Madrid. 
Upon  one  of  the  urns  Maria  Louisa, 
wife  of  Philip,  wrote  her  own  name 
with  scissors.  Reascending  the  Pan- 
theon steps,  the  corridor  opposite  leads 
to  the  new  Pantheon  de  las  Infantas, 
consisting  of  a  series  of  seven  chambers, 
wi$h  white  marble  walls  relieved  with 


ESCORIAL — CONVENT. 


137 


coloured  panels,  and  floors  laid  in  black 
and  white  marble.  The  tombs  are  in 
white  marble,  with  gold  decorations, 
coats  of  arms,  etc.  In  the  first  room 
are  the  tombs  of  the  daughters  of 
the  house  of  Montpensier  and  of  the 
*  Bourbon '  Infantas  Maria  and  Louisa ; 
the  second  and  third  rooms  are  empty 
as  yet ;  a  circular  tomb  at  the  angle  of 
the  Pantheon  contains  the  remains  of 
a  number  of  young  children,  and  the 
Infantas  are  arranged  in  chronological 
order  in  the  remaining  three  chambers. 
The  Pantheon  de  las  Infantas  is  very 
pure  and  cold,  but  not  so  impressive 
as  the  richer  and  gloomier  Pantheon  of 
the  reigning  monarchs. 

The  Convent. — Enter  from  the  ves- 
tibule of  church  into  Sala  de  Secretos, 
so  called,  because  even  whispers  may 
be  heard  from  any  angle,  owing  to  the 
form  of  the  ceiling.  Claustro  Principal 
Bajo. — All  of  granite,  except  the  marble 
pavement ;  its  style  Doric.  This  lower 
cloister  is  a  square  of  212  ft.  each  side. 
The  frescoes  with  the  subjects  from 
life  of  Christ  are  by  Tibaldi,  or  after 
his  designs,  but  executed  by  other 
artists.  The  E.  side  is  all  by  him,  but 
none  deserve  attention,  and  they  have, 
moreover,  been  wretchedly  restored  by 
Poler<5,  Marin,  Argandolla,  &  Co. 

Patio  de  los  Evangdistas. — 166  ft. 
each  side  of  the  square,  and  60  ft.  high. 
There  are  some  indifferent  statues  of 
the  Apostles,  by  Monegro. 

The  Sola  de  Capitulos,  or  Chapter- 
house.— Three  rooms,  an  antechamber 
and  the  Salas  Vicarial  and  Prioral. 
In  the  antechamber  are  no  paintings 
worthy  of  note,  but  in  the  other  two 
rooms  are  collected  some  of  the  finest 
pictures  yet  left  in  the  Escorial.  Note 
especially  : — In  the  Sola  Vicarial, 

68.  Jacob  watching  Laban's  Flocks, 
Ribera. 

72,  Christ  Washing   the  Apostles' 


Feet,  Tintoretto.  This  picture  was 
painted  for  the  Church  of  Santa  Mar- 
cella,  at  Yenice,  and  belonged  to  Charles 
I.  of  England,  at  whose  sale  Philip  IV. 's 
ambassador,  Cardenas,  purchased  it  for 
£250. 

337.  The  Satyr  Marsyas,  Giordano. 
Very  fine. 

339.  Nativity  and  Adoration,  by  Ri- 
bera; signed  'Giuseppe  de  Ribera, 
Espaiiol  Valenciano,  de  la  Ciudad  de 
Jativa,  Academico,  Romano.    F.  1640.' 

341.  The  Sons  of  Jacob,  by  Velaz- 
quez ;  painted  by  him  at  Rome,  and 
during  his  first  journey  thither,  and 
sent  to  Spain,  together  with  Vulcan's 
Forge  (Mad.  P.  Gal.,  No.  195),  and  his 
own  portrait  for  Pacheco. 

343.  Nativity,  by  Ribera  ;  344,  347, 
848,by  Giordano.  The  latter  Titianesque. 

349.  St  Gerome  Penitent,  by  Ribera 
(signed). 

476.  The  Martyrdom  of  Santiago,  El 
Mudo ;  in  the  background,  Battle  of 
Clavijo  (signed  and  dated  1571).  The 
executioner's  face  is  a  portrait  of  a 
blacksmith,  apaisano  of  the  painter's. 

478  and  479.  An  Annunciation  and 
an  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  Tin- 
toretto. Both  painted  for  the  high 
chapel,  but  found  too  large. 

371.  Crowning  Christ  with  Thorns, 
by  Bosch,  either  a  copy  or  replica  of 
that  in  gallery  of  Valencia. 

Sala  Prioral. — 

Two  or  three  Bassanos. 

333.  Ecce  Homo,  Tintoretto. 

336.  Noah  Intoxicated,  Giordano. 

63.  £1  Descendimiento,  Vander 
Weyden. 

62.  Gloria,  Purgatorio  6  Infierno, 
ascribed  to  El  Greco,  and  known  as 
the  Dream  of  Philip  II. 

896.  An  Entombment,  Tintoretto. 

442.  Lot  and  his  Family,  ascribed  to 
Vaccaro. 

443.  St.  Peter,  Giordano. 

444.  Christ  at  the  Pharisee's  house,  by 


138 


ESCORIAL — CONVENT. 


Tintoretto,   purchased  at  Charles  I.'s 
sale  for  £100. 

446.  The  Lord's  Supper,  by  Titian, 
formerly  in  the  refectory  (repainted). 

448.  Queen  Esther,  by  Tintoretto, 
purchased  at  sale  of  Charles  I.  of  Eng- 
land for  £100. 

453.  Hades,  by  Bosch.  A  pendant 
in  Mad.  P.  Gall.,  No.  460. 

458.  Flowers,  by  Mario  dei  Fiori 
(signed  1650). 

Iglesia  Vieja.  — Used  as  a  chapel  until 
the  completion  of   the  larger  actual 
church.      On  each  side  of  the  altar 
are  an  Ecce  Homo  and  Adoration  of 
Magi,  by  Titian,  perhaps  only  a  copy 
or  replica  of  No.  484,  in  Mad.  P.  Gall., 
ill  treated,  if  not  altogether  disfigured 
and  spoilt,  by  restorers,  and  a  copy  of 
Titian's    Burial    of   Christ,    formerly 
here,  and  now  at  the  Mad.  P.  Gall., 
No.  464.     In  the  high  altar  is  a  large 
painting  by  Titian,  representing  San 
Lorenzo's  Martyrdom — very  fine,  but 
ill  restored,  placed  in  a  bad  light,  and 
the  picture  itself  very  sombre.     It  has 
been  engraved  by  Cornelius  Coort. 

The  chapel  is  a  spacious  room,  109 
feet  long  and  34  wide.  It  communi- 
cates also,  directly,  with  the  lesser 
cloisters.  Of  the  paintings  formerly 
placed  here  but  few  remain,  and  they 
of  slight  merit.  They  are  as  follows 
— all  by  Pantoja  de  la  Cruz  : — 

468.  Interment  (effigy,  etc.)  of  Charles 
V. 

474.  Interment  of  Philip  II. 

480.  I  Escutcheons  of  the  House  of 

484.  f  Austria. 

486.J 

The  two  interments  are  copies  of 
those  in  the  Capilla  Mayor  of  the 
church.  The  escutcheons  are  a  set  of 
sketches  intended  for  the  same  position 
— to  be  placed  over  each  enterramiento. 
It  was  while  he  was  at  his  devotions 
here,  some  authorities  say,  and  not  in 


the  Coro  of  the  great  church,  that 
Philip  the  Second  received  the  news  of 
the  victory  at  Lopanto.  There  is 
nothing  of  value  to  detain  the  visitor 
here,  and  we  may  pass  on  at  once  to 
the  great  staircase,  or 

Escalera  Principal,  which  leads  from 
the  court  to  the  upper  cloisters.  It  is 
magnificent,  and  the  work  of  J.  Baut. 
de  Toledo,  and  J.  Baut.  Castillo,  sur- 
named  El  Bergamasco,  and  father  of 
the  fresco-painters,  the  Granelli.  The 
frescoes  on  the  walls  are  by  Luqueto 
and  Tibaldi,  of  no  merit,  and  scenes 
from  the  battle  of  San  Quintin,  by 
Giordano,  and  an  allegory  of  the  foun- 
dation of  Escorial  by  Philip.  All  the 
figures  are  portraits. 

Claustro  Principal  Alio  contains  but 
few  good  pictures.  No.  144.  Christ 
Appearing  to  His  Mother  after  the  Re- 
surrection is  ascribed  to  El  Mudo. 
The  series  from  life  of  St.  Lorenzo  are 
by  Carducci,  and  indifferent,  and  the 
scenes  from  History  of  St.  Gerome,  by 
Gomez.  A  fine  St  Gerome  Penitent 
(No.  174),  by  El  Mudo,  signed,  and  a 
once  magnificent  Nativity  and  Adora- 
tion of  Shepherds,  by  same  (No.  175), 
before  which  Siguenza  says  he  often 
heard  Tibaldi  exclaim,  '  Oh,  gli  belli 
pastori  1 ' 

176.  Sacrifice  of  Abraham,  a  copy  of 
Andrea  del  Sarto's  in  Vienna  P.  GalL 
(a  replica  in  Mad.  P.  Gall.,  under  No. 
387).  This  original  picture,  of  which 
the  Madrid  one  is  a  replica,  was  sent 
to  Francis  I.  of  France,  by  A.  del 
Sarto.  The  replica  was,  at  Andrea's 
death,  purchased  by  Marq.  del  Vasto, 
or  Guast,  whose  portrait  Titian  painted. 

187.  Holy  Family,  by  El  Mudo,  was 
a  great  favourite  of  Philip's. 

188.  The  Scourging  of  Christ,  by  the 
same ;  the  head  of  the  Saviour,  fine. 

189.  Descent  from  the  Cross,  by 
Veronese  (?). 

Aula  de  Moral— Thia  Roll  of  Mo- 


.!*_ 


ESCORIAL — CONVENT. 


139 


rdtity  was  used  by  the  monks  to  hold 
conferences  on  points  of  morality  and 
theology,  and  solve  casuistic  contro- 
versies. 

Pictures. — 108.  The  Resurrection  of 
Christ,  ascribed  to  Veronese. 

111.  Burial  of  San  Lorenzo,  by  El 
Mudo ;  used  to  be  hung  in  his  own 
rooms  at  the  Escorial. 

113.  Descent  from  the  Cross,  signed 
by  Veronese. 

114.  Charles  V.,  an  early  copy  from 
Titian's  at  Vienna. 

116.  John  of  Austria,  copy  by  Car- 
refios. 

Camarin. — Little  remains  here  of 
the  former  treasures,  most  of  the  best 
pictures  having  been  removed  to  Mad- 
rid. There  are  some  MS.  by  Santa 
Teresa,  the  works  of  St.  Austin,  written 
in  the  8th  century,  and  some  relics. 

905.  A  Crucifixion,  ascribed  to 
Titian,  and  910,  a  Vitellum,  painted 
and  stuck  on  wood,  ascribed  to  Holbein, 
Lucca  of  Holland,  etc.  (it  was  a  present 
to  Philip  from  Philibert  of  Savoy). 
There  are,  besides,  several  miniatures 
by  Leon  and  Fuente-el-Saz. 

Celda  PriorcU  AUa. — Some  good  mar- 
queterie  ;  the  windows  look  on  the  gar- 
dens and  fish-ponds.  293  is  a  copy  by 
Carre&o  of  Sanchez  Coello's  very  fine 
portrait  of  Father  Jose'  de  Siguenza, 
the  learned  and  earlier  historian  of  the 
Escorial ;  the  rest  are  copies.  Close  to 
this  cloister  is  a  room  where  Ferdinand 
VII.  was  confined,  having  been  arrested 
for  high  treason.  It  contains  a  few 
pictures:  a  copy  of  Raphael's  Trans- 
figuration by  a  Flemish  painter  ;  an  ex- 
cellent one  of  that  great  master's  '  Perla,' 
by  Santos.  221.  A  Virgin,  by  Carlo 
Dolce,  etc. 

In  the  Celda  PriorcU  Baja  is  a  por- 
trait of  Charles  V.  by  Pantoja,  aged 
forty-seven,  signed  (No.  419). 

420.  Philip  II.,  aged  twenty-five,  by 
Antonio  Moro  (signed). 


424.  Portrait  of  Mariana  of  Austria, 
Philip  II.  's  wife,  by  Carrino. 

426.  Portrait  of  Charles  II.,  aged 
fourteen,  by  the  same,  replica,  copy,  or 
original  of  No.  250. 

The  rest  of  the  convent  is  occupied 
by  eight  smaller  cloisters,  the  apothe- 
cary's hall,  kitchens,  etc. — all  on  the 
same  colossal  scale. 

Library. — This  portion  of  the  edifice 
bears  most  completely  and  strongly 
marked  the  stamp  of  the  founder's 
and  architect's  mind.  As  the  Escorial 
was  intended  to  be  the  largest  convent, 
the  noblest  church,  and,  besides,  the 
emporium  of  the  fine  arts,  sciences,  and 
letters  of  the  age,  there  were  seminaries 
and  schools  formed,  and  a  magnificent 
library,  collected  with  care  and  dili- 
gence, and  containing  at  length  invalu- 
able treasures  of  Arab  art  and  science, 
Greek  and  Hebrew  MSS.,  etc.  The 
Biblioteca  is  placed  above  the  porch  of 
the  Patio  de  los  Reyes.  It  is  194  ft. 
long  by  32  ft.  wide  (Spanish).  The 
arched  ceiling  is  painted  by  Tibaldi  and 
Carducho  •  with  subjects  personifying 
the  sciences  and  arts.  The  composi- 
tions and  allegories,  etc. ,  were  the  work 
of  Siguenza.  The  bookcases  ana 
shelves  are  made  of  ebony,  cedar,  orange, 
and  other  choice  woods,  and  were  de- 
signed by  Herrer  ;  the  pavement  is  of 
white  and  dark  marbles.  In  the  middle 
of  this  long  and  beautiful  room,  very 
well  lighted  up,  are  five  large  marble 
and  jasper  tables,  with  smaller  ones  in 
porphyry,  for  the  use  of  readers,  a  pre- 
sent from  Philip  IV.  There  are  several 
portraits  here  ;  that  of  Charles  V.,  aged 
forty-nine,  is  a  fine  copy  of  Titian's,  by 
Pantoja.  Opposite  is  that  of  Philip  II., 
aged  seventy-one,  ascribed  by  some  to 
Pantoja,  and  by  others  to  Moro  ;  Philip 
III.,  aged  twenty-three,  by  Pantoja; 
and  Charles  II.,  aged  fourteen,  by  Car- 
re&o.     There  is,  besides,  a  marble  bust 


140 


ESCORIAL  —  CONVENT. 


of  Cicero,  said  to  have  been  found  at 
Herculaneum ;  a  plaster  bust  of  the 
great  Spanish  seaman  Jorge  Juan,  and 
two  ba8si-relievi  representing  the  two 
sides  of  the  medal  given  by  Philip  II. 
to  Herrera,  and  engraved  by  Giacomo 
Trezzo.  A  portrait  of  Herrera,  one  of 
Isabelle  of  Portugal,  Charles  V.'s  wife, 
by  Cranach  (?),  and  of  Fray  Ceballos, 
who  wrote  *  False  Philosophy  is  a  State 
Crime,'  etc.,  complete  the  catalogue 
here. 

The  library  itself,  once  one  of  the 
richest  in  Europe,  has  been  sadly  dimi- 
nished through  neglect,  invasion  of  the 
French,  and  thefts,  but  still  amounts  to 
some  56,000  vols.  The  basis  of  it  was 
formed  by  Philip's  private  library,  num- 
bering 4000  vols.,  of  which  the  index 
or  catalogue  still  exists,  with  notes  in 
the  king's  hand.  Most  of  the  books  are 
bound  in  black  or  dark  purple  leather. 
A  year  after  they  were  placed  here  (1575), 
Philip's  ambassador  to  Rome,  Don 
Diego  de  Mendoza,  died,  bequeathing 
to  his  master  his  carefully  collected 
library.  The  collection  was  consider- 
ably augmented  by  gifts,  bequests,  and 
additions  made  up  with  books  from 
several  Inquisitions,  convents,  and  the 
Chapel  Royal  of  Granada.  Alfonso  del 
Castillo  was  ordered  by  Philip  to  pur- 
chase every  good  Arab  work  he  might 
fall  upon.  The  catalogue  of  all  the 
Arab  works  in  the  Escorial  extant  then, 
may  be  seen  in  Hottinger's  '  Promptu- 
arium  sive  Bibliotheca  Orientalis,'  pub- 
lished at  Heidelberg  in  1668,  in  4to. 
The  original  catalogue  was  classified  by 
Arias  Montano  and  Father  Siguenza. 
In  1614  the  valuable  library  of  the 
Emperor  of  Morocco,  Muley  Zidan, 
amounting  to  3000  volumes,  was  con- 
veyed here,  having  been  found  on  board 
a  ship  that  was  captured  near  Sallee. 
Most  of  them  were  burnt  in  the  fire 
which  took  place  in  1691,  lasted  fifteen 
days,  and  destroyed  whole  portions  of 


the  Escorial.  Of  the  MSS.  thus  loaf 
no  index  was  formed.  In  Charles  III.  's 
time  the  Maronite  Casiri  published  an 
index  of  the  Arab  MSS.  extant  in  his 
time  — '  Bibliotheca  Arabico-Hispana 
Escurialensis,'  folio,  2  vols. ;  Madrid, 
1760-70,  but  which  is  generally  con- 
sidered inaccurate.  The  Greek  MSS. 
were  classified  by  Fray  J.  de  Cuenca, 
*  Bibliotheca  Graca,'  etc.,  26  vols,  folio. 
Strange  to  say,  Spanish  libraries,  that 
ought  to  possess  the  richest  and  largest 
collection  of  Arab  MSS.,  are,  through 
neglect,  hatred  to  the  Moor,  and  oppo- 
sition of  the  clergy,  among  the  poorest 
in  Europe,  and  there  are  petty  German 
University  libraries  richer  in  this  than 
the  Escorial,  where  there  are  but  some 
1824  MSS.  Amongst  the  books  shown 
to  visitors  is  the  'Codice  Aureo,'  con- 
taining the  four  Gospels  in  gold  letters. 
It  was  begun  under  Conrad  II. ,  Emperoi 
of  the  West,  and  finished  about  the 
middle  of  the  11th  century ;  the  illu- 
minations are  fine  and  curious.  There 
is  a  fine  Koran.  Amongst  the  Greek 
MSS.  there  are  many  treasures  that  call 
for  a  patient  Hellenist.  There  are  very 
interesting  'Spanish  Chronicles,'  a  col- 
lection of  councils  of  the  10th  and  11th 
centuries,  a  work  on  chess,  dice,  and 
other  games,  written  by  order  of  Alfonso 
the  Learned,  and  with  many  illumina- 
tions ;  Seville,  1321.  The  'Censo  Gene- 
ral,' under  Philip  II.,  and  a  magnificent 
herbary,  in  13  vols.,  time  of  Philip  II., 
comprising  American  plants.  There 
are  also  valuable  collections  of  sketches, 
etchings,  and  engravings  by  Raphael, 
M.  Angelo,  A.  Dtirer,  Titian,  Breughel, 
etc.  The  Upper  Library  is  not  public, 
and  contains  prohibited  books,  missals, 
and  the  Arab  MSS. 

There  is  close  to  the  library  a  reading- 
room,  for  the  use  of  those  who  consult 
the  MSS.  and  books.  There  is  also  a 
'Catalogus  pracip.  auctor.  ineditor. 
MSS.'  in  the  Escorial,  by  Barvaeli,  etc. 


ESGORIAL — PALACE. 


141 


A  permission,  signed  by  the  intendente 
de  la  Real  Casa,  at  Madrid,  and  counter- 
signed by  the  bibliotecario,  etc.,  is  in- 
dispensable. As  for  the  rest,  patience 
and  ordinary  civility  will  help  the 
student  more  than  royal  orders,  intro- 
ductions, or  catalogues.  In  this  room 
there  are  some  portraits  of  learned  Span- 
iards, very  indifferent,  and  one  of  Arias 
Montano,  ascribed  to  Zurbaran. 


The  Palace  is  placed  in  the  angle  to 
N.  and  E.  of  the  whole  edifice.  The 
principal  staircase  is  by  Villanueva, 
and  was  made  for  Charles  IV.,  as  the 
former  one  was  not  convenient. 

The  rooms  in  the  palace  were  origin- 
ally most  plainly  fitted  up,  'Philip 
wishing,  he  said,  but  for  a  cell  in  the 
palace  he  had  built  to  God.'  They 
were  subsequently  altered,  and  the  walls 
hung  with  very  beautiful  tapestry  made 
at  the  Fabrica  of  Madrid  after  designs 
by  Goya,  Bayeu,  Maella,  and  others, 
under  the  direction  of  Stuyck  ;  besides 
161  made  in  Flanders  from  designs  by 
David  Teniers,  and  some  twenty  Gobe- 
lins and  Italian.  The  subjects  were 
most  happily  chosen,  and  such  as  it  is 
to  be  regretted  were  not  oftener  adopted 
by  the  great  Spanish  masters. 

Philip  II.  's  own  room  is  indeed  a  cell, 
and  here  allis  plainness.  It  was  so  placed 
that  he  might  be  close  to  the  high  altar, 
and  hear  and  see  the  mass  from  his  bed 
when  ill.  There  are  but  a  few  remains 
of  the  furniture  dating  of  that  time  :  a 
chair  used  by  him  when  suffering  from 
gout,  a  stool,  said  to  be  that  on  which 
Antonio  Perez,  his  well-known  secretary, 
used  to  sit,  are  all  that  now  remain. 
But  his  mind  is  still  to  be  seen  every- 
where. Philip  worked  very  hard,  went 
to  bed  late,  and  the  monks'  chants 
awoke  him  every  morning  at  four,  when 
he  heard  mass,  and  so  devoutly  and 
fervently  did  he  pray  that  tears  were 


often  seen  streaming  down  his  cheeks. 
For  two  months  previous  to  his  death 
he  endured  excruciating  pain  with  firm- 
ness and  patience.  On  feeling  his 
death  approach,  he  was  taken  in  a  litter 
all  over  the  building  of  his  creation,  to 
see  once  more,  and  bid  adieu  for  the 
last  time  to  all  those  portions  which 
were  more  especially  his  favourites,  and 
on  Sunday  the  13th  September  1598, 
he  expired  during  the  usual  morning 
service,  with  his  eyes  turned  towards 
the  high  altar  and  the  host,  and  grasp- 
ing in  his  hands  the  very  crucifix 
which  his  father,  Charles  V.,  held  when 
he  died. 

Sala  de  las  Batallas. — On  the  S.  side 
of  the  palace,  so  called  from  frescoes 
on  the  walls  painted  by  Granello  and 
Fabricio,  and  representing  important 
battles  and  sieges.  One  of  these  has  for 
subject  the  battle  of  La  Higueruela, 
where  Juan  II.  defeated  the  Moors,  1431. 
This  fresco  dates  1587,  and  was  copied 
by  order  of  Philip  from  a  chiaro-oscuro 
canvass  some  130  ft.  long,  found  in  a 
lumber-room  in  the  Alcazar  of  Segovia. 
It  is  most  important  to  artists  on 
account  of  the  costume,  arms,  and 
military  disposition  of  troops  in  those 
times.  The  other  frescoes  represent 
several  battles  and  naval  expeditions  of 
Philip  II.  in  Flanders,  Terceira  Islands, 
the  Battle  and  Siege  of  St.  Quintin, 
Lepanto,  etc.  ;  all  very  curious  and 
interesting.  There  are  rooms  richly 
ornamented  with  inlaid  wood  and  fine 
specimens  of  ironmonger's  work  in 
Spain  ;  see  the  locks  and  handles,  with 
inlaid  gold.  The  four  rooms  containing 
them  date  from  Charles  IV. 's  time,  and 
cost  some  £280,000.  They  are  called 
'piezas  de  maderas  finas.'  Among 
other  pictures  scattered  in  different 
rooms,  we  may  mention  : — 

In  the  Cuarto  de  los  Infantes,  1.  A 
Virgin,  by  A.  Cano  ;  and  a  small  por« 
trait  of  Philip  II.  by  Pantoja. 


142 


ESCORIAL — COMPAffA. 


In  the  Despacho,  Portrait  of  Charles 
111.,  by  Mengs  ;  a  view  of  Venice,  by 
Canaletto. 

In  Sala  de  Corte,  a  half-length  por- 
trait of  Olivares,  ascribed  to  Velas- 
quez. 

In, the  Queen's  Oratory,  a  Virgin,  by 
Juan  de  Juanes,  besides  several  Mengs, 
Maellas,  etc. 

Compana. — So  called  because  it  did 
acompanar  in  its  way  the  rest  of  the 
edifice.  It  is  an  edifice  placed  on  the 
W.  side,  and  communicating  with  the 
palace  by  a  gallery.  Here  were  the 
mills,  slaughter-houses,  cloth-factory, 
and  other  offices  and  trades  that  fed 
and  clothed  the  population  inhabiting 
the  convent,  which  was  a  town  in 
itself. 

The  N.  and  W.  sides  of  the  building 
front  the  village  and  mountains,  and 
have  a  paved  platform  or  terraces  called 
lonja  (lounge  ?)  On  the  N.  side  is  also 
a  fine  lonja,  with  a  subterraneous 
gallery,  180  ft.  long  and  10  ft.  high, 
made  in  1770  by  a  monk  called  Pon- 
tones,  to  avoid  the  winter  hurricanes 
whilst  crossing  to  or  from  the  village. 
To  the  E.  and  W.  are  fine  terraces 
overlooking  hanging  gardens  and  fish- 
ponds. The  slopes  around  and  below 
are  planted  with  elms  said  to  have  been 
brought  from  England  by  Philip  II. 
Visit  especially  the  Herreria  and  Fres- 
neda,  which  are,  or  rather  were  once, 
thickly  planted.  The  Escorial  (that  is 
the  convent,  palace,  etc.)  belongs  to  the 
queen's  patrimony ;  several  monks  have 
recently  been  allowed  to  return,  but 
their  number  does  not  suffice  to  say  the 
17,538  masses  for  which  money  was 
left  by  the  sovereigns  of  the  House  of 
Austria,  etc,  and  Ferdinand  VII. 

The  view  from  the  towers  of  the 
Escorial  embraces  extensive  but  melan- 
choly wastes,  treeless,  trackless,  and  al- 
most at  our  feet,  that  odd  contrast  (now 
daily  losing  its  first  force)  of  a  railway 


and  stations,  Newcastle  coal  and  iron, 

and  trains  running  thirty  miles  an  hour, 

close  to  this  monument  of  bygone  ages, 

in  whose  cold  granite  bosom  sleep  the 

mighty  representatives  of  the  genius, 

power,  grandeur,  and  backwardness,  of 
their  age. 

Since  1885  the  buildings  have 
passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Agustinos 
Calzados  (Augustinians),  who  direct  a 
colegio  in  the  N.  W.  portion,  wherein  is 
given,  in  separate  classes,  a  complete 
education  to  boys  destined  either  for 
ecclesiastical  or  secular  careers. 

Before  we  bid  adieu  to  the  Spaniards' 
eighth  marvel  of  the  world,  we  may  be 
allowed  to  make  some  remarks  suggested 
by  its  style.  The  Escorial  is  a  very 
important  work  in  the  history  of  archi- 
tecture, as  it  constitutes  one  of  the 
earliest  and  most  perfect  types  of  the 
Grseco-Roman  school,  the  principles  of 
which  the  Spanish  architects  were 
taught  to  admire  and  copy  from  the 
ruins  of  antiquity  and  the  modern 
edifices  of  Italy,  at  the  period  when 
the  intercourse  with  that  country 
became  so  frequent.  Mr.  Fcrgusson 
('  History  of  the  Modern  Styles  of  Archi- 
tecture, etc.,'  London  1862)  maintains 
that  in  this,  as  in  most  Spanish  pseudo- 
classical  edifices,  the  influence  of  Teu- 
tonic art  is  evident,  as  well  as  the 
ignorance  of  classical  detail.  'The 
sombre  but  magnificent  pile  of  the 
Escorial  exhibits  a  series  of  solecisms 
which  would  have  shocked  the  disciples 
of  Vignola  and  Palladio ;  but  the  whole 
design  shows  more  of  Gothic  character 
than  the  masterpieces  of  "Wren  and 
Michael  Angelo.  This  'grandest  and 
gloomiest  failure  of  modern  times, '  with 
its  forcible  outlines  and  massive  group- 
ings, puts  utterly  to  shame  the  miser- 
able monotony  of  the  still  more  modern 
palace  of  Madrid. '  The  first  impression 
it  usually  produces  is  that  of  disap- 
pointment ;  the  last  is  often  that  of 
ennui,  and  delight  to  come  out  of  the 


ESC0R1AL — CAS1TA  DEL  PRINCIPE. 


143 


damp,    heavy,    sombre    necropolis    of 
stone  once  more  into  sunshine  and  air. 
This  building,  with  its  great  height, 
and  long,  endless,  horizontal,  unbroken 
lines,    destitute  of  mouldings,    relief, 
movement,  and  variety,  is  an  evident 
illustration  of  this  fact— that  the  purely 
classical  style,  divested  of  the  resources 
that  the  Revival  ushered  in,  is  as  ill 
adapted  to  edifices  of  any  great  size  as 
the  Gothic  to  small  ones.     But  the 
Escorial  must  be  considered  as  a  con- 
vent, and  not  a  pile  built  for  ostentation 
or  effect,  as  the  inspiration  of  a  great 
mind  tainted  with  melancholy,  of  deep 
piety,  which  sought  rather  to  ponder 
on  the  sombre,  awful,  retributive  side 
of  religion,  than  on  the  sunnier  one  of 
mercy,  hope,  bliss,  and  love.     The  man 
explains  the  edifice,  and  the  edifice  is 
the  picture  of  the  man.     Those  granite 
towers,  resting  on  deep,  massive  foun- 
dations, rise  boldly  into  the  heaven  — 
lofty,  aspiring,  plain,  like  the  prayers 
his  stern  heart  sent  forth  to  God.    Those 
spacious    halls,    without    pictures    or 
stonework  to  distract  the  eye,  lighted 
up,  and  leading  finally  all  to  the  church 
and  the  altar,    are  like  the  avenues 
of   his    mind.       His   instructions    to 
Herrera,   when   entrusting   him   with 
the  continuation  of  Bautista  de  Toledo's 
work,     give    an    exact    idea    of    the 
founder's    intentions  :     '  Sencillez   en 
la  forma,    severidad  en   el  conjunto ; 
nobleza  sin  arrogancia,  majestad  sin  os- 
tentation ;   y  tened  siempre  presente 
que  el  edificio  que  vamos  aconstruir  para 
mayor  gloria  de  Dios  y  de  nuestra  santa 
Fe  Catolica  ha  de  ser  a  un  mismo  tiempo 
un  templo,  un  claustro,  y  una  tumba.' 
Philip's  Chapel. — About  14  m.  is  the 
Silla  del  Rey,  a  seat  formed  by  granite 
boulders,  whence  Philip  used  to  watch 
the  progress  and  effect  of  the  rising 
edifice. 

Casita  del  Principe.— Built  in  1772 


for  Charles  IV.  by  Vilianueva,  and 
placed  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  on  which 
the  convent  rises.  It  is  surrounded  by 
gardens  and  shrubberies,  neglected  and 
weedy.  It  was  intended  for  a  toy  or 
show -house,  rather  than  for  a  residence, 
and  containes  a  few  curiosities.  In  the 
ante-room  are  some  Giordanos  and  a 
Caracci ;  the  others  have  fine  names, 
and  many  are  certainly  original  daubs. 
There  are  some  bits  of  good  marble 
marquetry,  ivory-work  worthy  of  Chi- 
nese patience,  jaspers  and  gilding, 
clocks,  faded  silks,  and  furniture  of 
that  Renaissance  Pompeii  and  Hercu- 
laneum  style  so  long  the  fashion  with 
Napoleon  and  the  Spanish  Bourbons. 
The  Casa  del  Infante  is  another  house, 
but  most  indifferent,  built  for  the 
Infante  Don  Gabriel. 

Books  of  Reference. — 1.  'Memoriaa 
sobre  la  Fundacion  del  Escorial  y  su 
Fabrica,'  by  Fray  Juan  de  San  Geroni- 
mo  (MS.  in  Library  of  Escorial,  K.  j.  7); 
also  published  in  the  valuable  '  Colec- 
cion  de  Documentos  ineditos  para 
la  Historia  de  Espafia,'  vol.  vii.  The 
author  was  one  of  the  first  monks 
sent  by  Philip  II.  to  found  the  mo- 
nastery. 

2.  '  Sumario  y  Breve  Declaration  de 
los  Disenos  y  Estampas  de  la  Fab. 
de  S.  Lorenzo  del  Escorial,  por  Juan 
de  Herrera  ;'  Madrid,  1589,  8vo  ;  most 
rare,  and  of  great  value,  as  being  the 
handbook  to  Escorial  by  its  architect. 
A  copy  in  library  of  Duke  of  Osuna, 
Madrid. 

3.  '  Description  de  la  Octava  Mara- 
villa  de  el  Mundo,'  etc.,  by  Alfonso 
de  Almela,  dedicated  to  Philip  II. ;  MS. 
foL  in  Bibl.  Nacl.  (G.  194),  dates 
1594. 

4.  'Description  Breve,'  etc.,  with 
the  additions  to  the  edifice  by  Philip 
IV.,  by  Father  de  los  Santos  ;  Madrid, 
Impta.  Real,  1657,  fol  ;  several  edi- 
tions. 


144 


ESTREMADURA. 


5.  '  Descripcion, '  -  by  Ponz,  in  his 
*  Viage  de  Espaiia,'  vol  ii. 

6.  Quevedo's  detailed  'Hista.  del 
Real  Monasterio,  etc  ;  Madrid,  Mel- 
lado,  1849.  The  author  was  librarian 
of  the  Escorial,  and  therefore  could  dis- 


pose of  every  document  in  it  relating  to 
the  subject.  It  is  superior  to  Rotondo 
and  Romajo's  works. 

7.  A  series  of  articles  on  the  MSS.  of 
the  Escorial  in  the  Revista  Contempor' 
anea,  1888. 


ESTREM  ADURA. 


Geographical  and  Administrative 
Divisions,  etc. — This  out-of-the-way, 
dull,  and  most  uninteresting  region 
comprises  now  the  provinces  of  Caceres 
and  Badajoz.  It  derives  its  name  from 
Extrema-Oria,  the  last  and  extreme 
conquest  of  Alfonso  IX.  (1228).  The 
length  is  162  m.  from  Sierra  de  Gata 
to  Sierra  Morena,  and  the  breadth  123 
m.  from  E.  to  W.,  occupying  a  surface 
of  some  1211  square  leagues,  with  a 
population  of— Caceres,  303,721 ;  Ba- 
dajoz, 431,922  :  total,  735,643.  The 
Sierra  Morena  separates  it  on  the 
S.  from  Andalusia  ;  to  the  N.  it  is 
bounded  by  Leon  and  New  Castile  ;  to 
the  E.  by  the  hills  of  Bejar  and  the 
Batuecas  and  Sierra  de  Francia  ;  and  to 
W.  by  Portugal,  from  which  it  is  sepa- 
rated by  the  Eljas,  Tagus,  and  Sierra 
de  Gata.  Badajoz  is  the  residence  of 
the  Captain-General  of  Estremadura  and 
Caceres,  the  see  of  the  bishop  and  Au- 
diencia.  It  is  mostly  very  flat,  and  con- 
sists of  boundless,  .trackless  plains,  with 
villages  like  happy  days,  '  few  and  far 
between,'  and  an  indolent,  simple,  pas- 
toral, ignorant  population,  given  ex- 
clusively  to  pasturing  and  rearing 
swine.  The  cities  are  very  poor,  and 
lack  objects  of  interest  to  the  tourist. 
The  want  of  roads,  wretched  accommo- 
dation, and  absence  of  subjects  of  in- 
terest to  attract  tourists,  have  made  us 
write  so  brief  a  description  of  its  towns. 
However,  the  very  features  of  this 
country,  its  loneliness  and  silence,  its 
unexplored  natural  history,  may  tempt 


some  tourists  of  a  peculiar  class  and 
disposition.  We  refer  them,  therefore, 
to  Madrid,  from  Lisbon  to  Caceres. 
We  must  not  forget  to  recommend 
most  especially  to  antiquaries  an  ex- 
cursion to  Merida,  Alcantara,  Coria, 
etc.,  which  abound  in  very  important 
Roman  antiquities ;  and  Yuste  will 
attract  all  admirers  of  Charles  V.,  who 
lived  and  died  in  the  monastery  of  this 
name  (see„  Cdceres).  The  spring  and 
autumn  must  be  selected  as  the  best 
periods  of  the  year  for  visiting  this 
seldom-visited  region  of  Spain. 


Routes. 

Madrid  to  Almaden, 

rail. 
Merida,  r. 
Badajoz,  r. 
Trujillo,  dil. 
Caceres,  rid. 


Alcantara,  rid. 
Coria,  rid. 
Plasencia,  r. 
Talavera,  r. 
Toledo,  r. 
Madrid,  r. 


The  Estremenos  are  dull  holgazanes 
to  the  backbone,  unprogressive,  honest, 
and  trustworthy.  Their  dress  is  dark 
and  unpicturesque. 

Books  of  Reference. — 1 . '  Observaciones 
sobre  las  Antig.  de  Extrem.,  by  the 
Marques  de  Valdeflores ;  fol.  MS.  in 
the  Academia  de  Historia,  Madrid. 
Important  to  antiquaries. 

The  '  Historias  de  Merida '  are  being 
republished  under  the  direction  of  D. 
Pedro  Maria  Piano,  and  other  intelli- 
gent antiquaries  of  Estremadura.  See 
also  Forner's  Antigiiedades  (MS.)  ; 
the  most  important  work  on  the  sub- 
ject, according  to  Valdeflores  and 
others. 


145 


GALICIA. 


Geographical  and  Administrative 
Divisions,  Bivers,  etc. — The  former 
Keino  de  Oalicia  now  contains  four 
large  and  thickly  peopled  provinces — 
viz.  Corona,  capital  La  Coru&a,  popu- 
lation, 631,500 ;  Pontevedra,  capital 
Pontevedra,  population  481,000  ; 
Orense,  capital  Orense,  population 
402,500 ;  and  Lugo,  capital  Lugo,  popu- 
lation 473,000  :  total,  1,988,000  souls. 

Corona  is  the  residence  of  the  cap- 
tain-general, under  whose  military  ju- 
risdiction the  four  provinces  are  placed, 
and  the  seat  of  the  Audiencia.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Bay  of  Bis- 
cay, E.  by  Asturias  and  New  Castile, 
S.  by  Portugal,  and  W.  by  the  Atlantic. 
Its  extent  is  some  1032  square  leagues; 
which,  when  we  consider  its  population, 
is  an  evident  proof  that,  compared  with 
other  provinces,  Galicia  is  by  far  the 
most  densely  peopled  of  Spain.  The 
principal  rivers  are  :  The  Mifio  (Portu- 
guese Minho\  which  crosses  the  whole 
reino  from  N.  to  S.,  an  extent  of  80 
kil. ;  and  the  Tambre,  flowing  from  E. 
to  "W.,  intersecting  the  country,  and, 
together  with  numberless  tributaries, 
watering  its  valleys  to  excess.  The 
country  is  hilly.  The  Sierras  de  Loba, 
Testeiro,  Sierra  de  Porto,  de  St.  Ma- 
met,  Sena,  etc.,  are  lofty  and  woody, 
and  the  Pico  Ancares  and  Pefia  Tre- 
vinca  on  the  eastern  boundary  are 
covered  with  snow  almost  all  the  year. 
The  lower  valleys  are  warm  and 
sunny,  and  several  of  them,  especially 
about  the  Mifio,  most  beautiful  and  wild. 

History. — That  of  Galicia  is  the 
least  interesting  in  Spain ;  indeed,  there 
scarcely  exist  any  annals :  '  heureux  les 
peuples  qui  n'ont  pas  d'histoirei'  The 
reino  was  founded  by  the  Suevi,  409 ; 
conquered  by  Leovigil,  585,  and  by  the 
Arabs  in  713.   It  was  subsequently  an- 


nexed to  Leon,  and  also  to  Asturias,  and 
even  became  the  appanage  of  Juan 
Garcia,  the  son  of  Ferdinand  I.  of 
Portugal  Placed  between  contending 
parties,  their  victim  and  their  prey  in 
turn,  devoid  of  any  great  riches,  living 
principally  amid  the  mountain  fast- 
nesses, where  their  poverty  tempted 
none,  and  their  fierceness  kept  most  at 
bay,  the  Gallegos  were  never  or  little 
troubled  by  conquerors,  scorned  by 
the  rest  of  the  more  civilised  Span- 
iards, and  lived  under  the  rule  of  pre- 
datory chiefs.  Santiago  or  Compos- 
tella,  founded  in  the  9th  century,  when 
the  body  of  St.  James  is  said  to  have 
been  miraculously  discovered  by  Bp. 
Theodomir,  became  an  important  city, 
of  world-wide  repute,  and  frequented 
by  pilgrims  who  flocked  to  the  shrine 
of  this  saint  Galicia  was  declared  an 
Audiencia  territorial  by  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  and  Santiago  chosen  for  the  re- 
sidence of  the  justicia  mayor.  This  im- 
portant royal  commissary  governed  the 
country  in  the  name  of  the  king.  The 
seat  of  this  authority  was  subsequently 
removed  to  Orense  and  to  Corona,  till 
the  radical  organisation  of  the  kingdom 
in  1835. 

Character  of  the  People;  Language, 
Dress,  Customs. — The  Gallegos  are  the 
Boeotians  or  Auvergnats  of  Spain ;  they 
are  a  tall,  muscular  race,  hardy,  la- 
borious when  their  interest  is  at  stake, 
but  otherwise  indolent  and  dirty.  They 
are  very  honest,  and  may  be  depended 
upon.  They  supply  all  Spain  with  ser- 
vants, mozos  de  eordel,  cabbies,  flunkeys, 
(laeayos),  marmitons,  aguadores  (water- 
carriers),  and  all  offices  of  beasts  of 
burden,  and  much  exposed  to  kicks, 
jnmtapies,  liveries,  and  other  signs  of 
servitude  and  degradation,  which  the 
proud  Castellanos,  independent  Vascu- 


146 


GAL10IA. 


ences,  and  fiery  Andaluces  despise,  and 
leave  to  this  more  humble  race  ;  fonder 
also  of  lucre,  of '  aguinaldos  'and  savings, 
which  after  three  or  four  years'  exile  (to 
them)  in  Madrid,  Seville,  and  other  large 
cities,  they  carry  back  to  their  damp, 
dirty  mountain  hovels  and  secluded  val- 
leys, where  they  realise  their  constant 
dream  to  own  land  (fincarse),  however 
small  a  patch,  however  unproductive 
the  soil  may  be,  and  the  borono  (millet) 
bread,  darker  and  harder  than  the 
snow-white  golden-crusted  '  pain  de  la 
servitude'  of  Castilian  'grandes.' 

Love  of  home,  la  tierra,  sickens  the 
emigrant  Gallego  a  year  or  two  after  he 
has  quitted  it,  even  if  he  has  reached  the 
highest  station  in  fiunkeyism,  when  the 
fumes  of  his  grandeur,  the  glitter  of  the 
gold-laced  hat  and  coat,  are  dispelled 
from  his  eyes,  which  see  now  distinctly, 
and  not  without  a  tear,  in  the  camera 
oseura  of  the  heart,  the  little  white 
choza  under  the  old,  well-known  chest- 
nut, by  the  laughing  rill  on  the  green 
slopes ;  and  when  the  noise  of  the  heavy 
coach-wheels  and  the  hum  of  the  corte 
are  no  longer  loud  enough  to  drown  in 
his  ear  the  discordant  tune  of  the  gaita, 
the  rough  deep  soprano  voice  of  his 
Marusina,  the  hollow  barking  of  his 
perm,  all  calling  to  him,  and  sweet  as 
music  to  his  lonely  heart.  In  the  sum- 
mer, at  harvest-time,  flocks  of  sturdy 
Gallegos  spread  over  the  corn-teeming 
plains  of  Castile  and  northern  Portugal, 
armed  with  a  short  hoz  (sickle),  like 
the  Irish  in  England.  The  reaping 
once  done  for  the*  indolent  Castilian 
labourer,  who  wants  arms  only  because 
he  will  not  employ  them,  they  return 
gladly  to  their  free  hills  and  homes. 
The  women  meanwhile  have  not  been 
idle,  and  when  the  rueca  (distaff)  rests, 
the  field  is  ploughed,  maize  and  potatoes 
sown,  etc  The  Gallegos  make  good 
soldiers,  brave,  patient,  and  easily 
managed.     The    dark   side   of   their 


character  is  formed  by  a  suspicious 
mood,  jealousy  and  envy,  love  of  gossip 
and  meddling,  avarice  and  ingratitude. 
Their  language,  or  rather  patois,  is 
a  dialect  of  the  Portuguese,  and  their 
ludicrous  pronoun ciation  of  the  Spanish, 
not  less  than  their  proverbial  nalveM, 
often  cunningly  put  on,  has  made  them 
the  laughing-stock  of  the  more  cultos 
Spaniards.  They  use  the  u  for  0,  the  i 
for  e,  etc,  say  sinuritu  for  senorito  ;  and 
one  of  their  war  speeches,  during  the 
Peninsular  war,  began, '  Nusutrus  dicia- 
mus  a  vusutrus,  murrimus  in  il  campu 
di  gloria  ]'  'I  have  been  treated  as  if 
I  were  but  a  Gallego,'  says  the  proud 
Castilian ;  and  in  Fray  Gerundio's 
satirical  newspaper  on  the  constitution 
of  Spain,  published  some  years  ago,  the 
first  article  ran  thus :  *  All  those  who 
are  born  in  Spain  are  Spaniards,  and 
the  Gallegos  besides.' 

Their  customs  are  plain,  patriarchal ; 
they  are  given  entirely  to  rearing  fine 
cattle  and  cultivating  their  too-much- 
divided  properties.  Pilgrimages  are 
still  the  fashion  here  and  there,  more  as 
pretexts  for  jollification  than  devout 
excursions  (though  the  natives  are  most 
pious  and  superstitous),  and  the  Ro- 
merias  are  now  but  village  fiestas,  when 
the  slow,  grave,  antique  muheira  is 
performed,  the  couples  dancing  back  to 
back  to  the  tune  of  the  bagpipes,  when 
the  heady  wines  of  the  country  are 
absorbed  in  prodigious  quantities,  and 
those  of  each  pueblo  loudly  proclaim  its 
superiority  over  the  others :  '  Viva 
Briallus  !'  '  Nu,  mas  viva  Amil !'  '  Viva 
Catoira  I ' — discussions  which  usually 
end  and  are  settled  by  the  introduction 
of  'porros,'  a  sort  of  shillelah,  and 
other  suchlike  striking  arguments  ad 
hoTtiinem. 

The  dress  is  sombre,  and  suited  to  the 
rainy,  damp  climate.  The  men  wear 
short  light-brown  cloth  jackets,  knee- 
breeches  of  the  same  stuff,  and  polainas 


GALICIA. 


H7 


or  cloth  gaiters,  either  of  black  or  light 
brown  cloth,  for  which  woollen  stock- 
ing are  sometimes  substituted  in  summer. 
A  double-breasted  waistcoat  of  the  same 
colour  and  material,  with  a  few  rows  of 
brass  buttons,  enlivens  the  monotonous 
costume ;  wooden  shoes,  the  French 
sabots,  madreflas,  are  used  by  the 
peasants.  The  head-gear  consists  of  a 
pointed  cloth  or  velvet  cap  turned  up 
at  the  sides,  and  very  like  those  worn 
in  the  time  of  Louis  XI.  of  France.  The 
dress  of  the  women  are  still  plainer ;  on 
working  days  they  are  clad  in  white  or 
striped  linen,  thrown  over  their  heads 
for  mantillas,  and  dark  sayas ;  but  their 
dress,  as  well  as  that  of  the  men,  is  most 
picturesque  and  handsome,  when  worn 
by  the  wealthiest  farmers  on  great  holi- 
days, marriage-dances,  etc. 

In  some  of  the  valleys  goitre,  paperas 
or  bucio,  and  its  accompaniment,  cretin- 
ism, are  found.  This  awful  and  disgust- 
ing infirmity  seems  to  be  peculiar  to 
every  hilly  country,  Switzerland,  Savoy, 
the  Pyrenees  (French  and  Spanish),  the 
Ariege,  Andes,  N.  Navarre,  N.  Basque 
Provinces,-  Asturias,  and  Galicia.  The 
causes  of  goitre,  which  produces  cretins 
— those  bastardised,  rachital  beings,  a 
degree  lower  in  the  scale  of  the  human 
race,  whom  we  always  find  side  by  side 
with  healthy,  luxuriant,  proud-soaring 
trees  and  vegetation — have  never  been 
ascertained.  Those  afflicted  with  this 
hypertrophy  of  the  gland  are  known  to 
inhabit  flat  and  low  districts,  40  ft.  to 
70  ft.  only  above  the  level  of  the  sea 
(Elbceuf,  Dax,  S.  of  France),  as  well  as 
the  highest  plateaux  of  hilly  districts, 
in  the  ventilated,  opened  Maurienne, 
Le  Valais,  and  Lombardy ;  among  people 
who  live  well,  and  with  comforts  around 
them ;  and  also  in  countries  where  snow 
never  falls,  such  as  parts  of  Africa, 
Sumatra,  etc  In  reply  to  those  who 
have  stated  that  they  are  exclusively 
met  in  countries  where  snow  and  glaciers 


abound,  it  has  been  urged  that  cases 
of  goitre  are  totally  unknown  in  the 
highest  valleys  of  the  Alps,  Norway, 
Sweden,  etc.  Dr.  Grange  is  of  opinion 
that  the  soil  of  countries  where  goitre 
prevails  is  formed  of  magnesian  rocks, 
or  contains  dolomite  and  sulphate  of 
lime  and  magnesia.  D.  Moretin  derives 
the  malady  from  certain  organic  sub- 
stances found  in  some  waters ;  D.  Chatin 
ascribes  it  entirely  to  the  absence  ot 
iodine  in  the  soil,  waters,  or  air  of  dis- 
tricts where  goitre  is  common,  and 
iodine  preparations  invariably  cure  or 
mitigate  the  goitre  by  absorption  ;  yet 
bread,  vegetables,  and  meat,  all  contain 
iodine,  etc.  In  Galicia  and  Navarre, 
the  cretins,  who  do  not  however  abound, 
are  looked  upon  with  pity  and  disgust, 
but  seldom  succoured. 

The  Gallegos  have  (p.  146)  been 
incidentally  compared  with  the  Irish. 
As  a  matter  of  fact  they  are  in  great 
part  Celts ;  and  their  likeness  to  the 
Irish  can  be  well  seen  in  the  works  of 
£.  Pardo  Bazan  and  other  novelists, 
also  in  their  poetry  and  folk-lore.  The 
land-tenures,  too,  are  similar;  only 
the  Gallegos  had  their  land  bills  at 
the  end  of  the  18th,  instead  of  at  the 
close  of  the  19th  century.  There  has 
been  a  considerable  revival  of  Gallegan 
literature  during  late  years. 

Mineral  Springs. — Although  not  so 
rich  as  Asturias,  yet  this  province  pos- 
sesses several  mineral  springs  most 
abundant  and  efficient,  which,  were  they 
properly  managed,  would  be  an  import- 
ant source  of  prosperity  to  the  province. 
The  saline  spring  of  Camondes  de  Bro- 
garin,  the  hot  waters  of  Caldas  de  Reyes, 
Caldas  de  Cundes,  Orense,  Lugo,  Cor- 
tegada,  etc,  are  excellent.  The  princi- 
pal are,  Arterjo,  near  Corona,  very  like 
those  of  Plombieres,  St  Gervais  (Savoy), 
Baden  (Austria),  etc.,  and  the  sulphu- 
reous spring  of  Carballa,  near  Corona j 


148 


GALI01A. 


temperature,  24  to  34  centigrades.     For 
details,  see  General  Information. 

Agriculture,  Mines,  Trade,  etc. 
—What  little  is  produced  is  consumed 
on  the  spot»  and  trade,  without  excess 
of  production,  and  absence  of  wants  and 
capital,  must  necessarily  be  an  idle 
word.  Yet  the  ports  are  secure,  nume- 
rous, and  admirably  situated  for  com- 
merce. Vivero,  Rivadeo,  and  Ferrol, 
on  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  are  sheltered  and 
deep -bottomed.  The  Bay  of  Vigo  is 
among  the  finest  in  the  world  ;  Coruna 
is  perfectly  placed,  of  easy  access  ;  Ca- 
marinas,  one  of  the  most  secure  in  Spain ; 
and  Cornubion,  Nova,  Muros,  etc,  are 
all  excellent.  The  soil  is  rich  and 
generally  well  cultivated,  the  products 
of  the  land  varied ;  thus,  fine  corn  is 
reaped  in  the  Vegas  of  Orense,  Mon- 
terey, and  the  banks  of  the  Ulla. 
Oranges,  the  citron,  maize,  and  flax 
grow  plentifully  about  Redasdillo,  Tuy, 
and  Rosamonde.  Hemp,  flax,  oats, 
chestnuts,  abound  near  and  about  Mon- 
donedo,  Lugo,  and  Betanzos.  The 
olive  is  also  met  here  and  there,  and 
the  wines  grown  in  the  districts  of 
Orense,  Vigo,  Amandi,  Valdeorras,  etc., 
equal  and  would  surpass  those  produced 
in  Portugal,  were  more  pains  taken  in 
the  elaboration.  There  are  excellent 
pasture-lands  about  the  Ulla  and  hilly 
districts  ;  goats,  sheep,  and  a  small 
hardy  breed  of  cows,  are  reared  with 
skill,  and  sent  in  large  quantities  to  the 
Spanish  ports  and  London.  The  mines, 
those  at  least  that  have  been  worked, 
are  insignificant ;  copper,  iron,  and 
tin,  are  nevertheless  said  to  exist  in 
vast  proportions.  There  are  no  fabrics 
save  a  few  crystal,  petroleum  and  linen 
works  at  Coruna,  Ferrol,  Vivero  and 
Tuy.  The  hills  produce  excellent  timber 
for  shipping  and  building.  The  bacon 
is  delicious,  and  the  Bayona  hams  (near 
Vigo)  are  celebrated,  and  not  to  be  con- 
founded with  those  of  French  Bayonne. 
Those  of  Candelas  are  equally  good. 


General  Description. — The  cities 
are  devoid  of  interest,  if  we  except  Sant- 
iago, the  greatest  pilgrimage  centre  in 
mediaeval  times,  and  interesting  for  its 
churches,  etc.,  Lugo  and  the  unrivalled 
Bay  of  Vigo  and  scenery  around.  The 
botany  is  worthy  of  study,  and  possesses 
great  variety,  owing  to  the  difference  of 
temperature.  There  is  capital  trout  and 
salmon  fishing,  and  wolves,  boars,  and 
caza  menor  are  met  with  in  the  hills. 
The  mountain  scenery  is  Swiss-like,  but 
tamer,  and  less  varied  in  aspect.  The 
climate  is  damp,  rainy,  and  very  cold 
in  winter,  when  the  mountain-passes 
and  tracks  are  impracticable.  The 
roads,  few  in  number,  are  not  well  kept, 
and  the  mountaineers  often  prefer  the 
beaten  tracks  (senderos),  which  are  both 
softer  to  their  own  and  their  horses' 
feet,  and  considerably  shorten  distances. 
Excursionists  will  find  great  hospitality 
among  the  simple-hearted  cheerful 
highlanders,  and  the  sturdy,  sure- 
footed, long-maned  jaeas  gallegos 
(hacks)  are  excellent  for  expeditions 
in  the  hilly  districts.  The  best  period 
for  visiting  Galicia  is  from  the  end  of 
April  to  the  middle  of  September.  The 
routes  we  suggest  are  as  follows,  and 
have  been  chosen  with  a  view  to  com- 
bine mountain  scenery,  fishing,  and 
city  sight-seeing : — 
Leon  to  Villafranca  del  Pontevedra^  diL 


Vierzo,  r. 
Ponferrada,  r. 
La  Baneza,  rid. 
Lago  de  Castaneda,  rid. 
Monterey,  diL 
Orense,  dil. 
Rivadavia,  r. 
Tuy,  r. 
Vigo,  r. 


Santiago,  diL 
Coruna,  diL 
Ferrol,  s.,  or  r.  and  rid. 
Betanzos,  r. 

Or,  Lugo,  r. 

Cangas  de  Tineo,  rid. 
Montonedo,  diL 
Rivadeo,  dil. 
Oviedo,  dil. 


The  Lago  de  Castafieda,  Puente  San 
Domingo  de  Flores,  the  Upper  and 
Lower  Cabreras,  etc.,  will  gratify  the 
lover  of  scenery.  The  trout-rivers  are: 
— The  Tubia,  Ladra,  between  Ferrol 
and  Mondofiedo ;  the  Ulla  and  its  tribu- 
taries, Furclo8,  Mera,  etc.,  between  Lugo 
and  Santiago ;  the  Mifio,  Tambre.  The 
Sierra  Candau  abounds  in  wolves. 


lift 


GERONA.    See  Barcelona— Routes. 
GIBRALTAR. 


English  seaport  and  fortress ;  lat 
36°  6'  30*  N. ;  long.  5°  21'  12"  W. 
Greenwich.  Population  about  20,000, 
exclusive  of  the  garrison.  With  the 
-garrison,  about  25,000. 

Routes  and  Conveyances. — From 
/v*f^  London,  1151  m.  By  the 
~*AB+»  boats  of  the  Hall  line, 
weekly  ;  fare,  £7 :  7s.,  1st  cl. ;  calling  at 
Vigo  or  Lisbon  and  Cadiz.  Agents  in 
Gibraltar :  J.  Peacock  and  Co.,  Irish 
Town.  Or,  better,  by  the  first-class 
steamers  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
Steam  Navigation  Company ;  Head 
Offices,  122  Leadenhall  Street,  E.C. 
Agents  in  Gibraltar:  Smith,  Imossi, 
and  Co.,  Irish  Town.  Time,  4  days, 
subject  to  delays ;  fares,  1st  cl.  £10 ; 
2d  cl.,  and  passengers'  servants,  £6  ; 
returns,  £16  and  £10.  Horses,  £10  ; 
dogs,  £2.  Leave  Gravesend  every 
Thursday  or  Friday  about  1  p.m. 
These  steamers  do  not  now  touch  at 
Vigo,  but  proceed  direct  to  Gibraltar, 
where  they  remain  for  6  to  12  hours, 
then  leave  for  Malta,  etc.  Also  by 
the  Orient  S.  N.  Co.  (Anderson, 
Anderson  and  Co.,  .  5  Fenchurch 
Avenue,  E.C),  leaving  Tilbury  every 
alternate  Friday,  calling  at  Plymouth 
next  day.  Fares  as  above,  by  the 
P.  and  O.  S.  N.  Co.  Also  by  the 
steamers  of  Messrs.  MacAndrews  and 
Co.,  by  the  Spanish  line  of  Senores 
Saenz  y  Compania,  and  by  many  other 
irregular  sailings,  for  which  see  adver- 
tisements. 

From  Liverpool.  By  the  Cunard  line, 
weekly ;  fares,  £7  and  £5.  Agents  in 
Gibraltar  :  M.  H.  Bland  and  Co.,  Irish 
Town.  Also  by  Burns  and  Maclver's 
steainers  (same  agents)  and  the  Moss 
line.  Agents :  Smith,  Imossi,  and  Co., 
Irish  Town. 

From  Glasgow.    By  the  Anchor  line, 


every  10  days.     Agents  at  Gibraltar: 
Henderson  and  Co.,  Church  Street. 

From  New  York.  By  the  North 
German  Lloyd,  weekly,  in  8-9  days : 
fare,  $90 ;  return,  $175.  Agents  in 
Gibraltar,  Onetti  and  Sons. 

Description  of  Sea-Passage, — By  this 
mode  of  reaching  Spain,  a  good  deal 
of  trouble  and  expense  is  avoided,  and, 
if  undertaken  in  fair  weather,  the  voyage 
is,  on  the  whole,  very  pleasant  Two 
days  after  leaving  the  port  we  enter 
'Biscay's  troubled  waters.'  The  first 
land  made  is  the  N.W.  coast  of  Spain, 
Cape  Finisterre,  after  Cape  OrtegaL 
The  coast  of  Portugal  is  now  descried, 
and,  wind  and  weather  permitting,  we 
pass  within  a  few  cable-lengths  of  Cape 
St  Vincent.  A  bold,  rocky  headland 
gives  the  Cape  a  very  picturesque  ap- 
pearance, enhanced  by  the  deep  red 
colour  contrasting  with  the  green  of  the 
sea.  A  huge  mass  of  rock,  detached 
in  front  of  the  headland,  adds  to  the 
tableau,  the  background  of  which  is 
formed  by  the  noble  range  of  the 
Montchique  mountains.  A  lighthouse 
with  a  rotary  light  rises  on  one  side, 
and  a  romantic  monastery  on  the  cliff. 
Cape  St  Vincent  was  the  Roman  '  Mons 
Sacer,'  a  name  which  a  neighbouring 
Portuguese  hamlet  (Sagres)  has  pre- 
served, which  was  reformed  in  1416,  by 
Prince  Henry  of  Portugal.  The  Arabs 
called  the  convent  Henisata-1-gorab, 
the  Church  of  the  Crow,  from  the  re- 
ligious tradition  of  some  crows  who 
watched  the  body  of  St  Vincent,  who 
was  put  to  death  at  Valencia  in  304, 
but  removed  here  during  the  Moorish 
invasion.  This  cape  is  particularly  in- 
teresting, in  connection  with  the  battle 
fought  Feb.  14,  1797,  between  the 
Spanish  fleet,  under  Don  Jose'  Cordova, 
and   Admirals  Jervis  and  Kelson,  in 


150 


GIBRALTAR 


which  fifteen  small  English  defeated, 
after  one  day's  hard  fighting,  twenty- 
seven  large  Spanish  ships,  among  which 
was '  La  Sta.  Trinidad/  of  136  guns,  four 
of  the  largest  falling  into  Jervis's  hands. 

The  steamer  rounds  the  cape  and 
steers  S.  E.  Cadiz  and  the  low  flat  shores 
of  Andalusia  are  left  westward,  and  uow 
we  enter  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar.  Fass 
off  Cape  Trafalgar ;  in  front  project 
Tarifa  and  the  yellow  plains  of  the 
Salado,  famous  for  the  victory  won  by 
the  Christians  over  the  Infidel.  A 
small  block  of  white  buildings  and  a 
lighthouse  are  all  that  attract  the  eye 
on  land,  but  here  is  the  precise  site  of 
the  battle  of  Trafalgar,  Oct.  21,  1805. 
Our  readers  are  too  well  acquainted 
with  the  facts  of  this  Waterloo  of  the 
seas,  that  we  should  venture  to  recall 
them  to  their  minds. 

The  Straits,  the  Arab  'Gate  of  the 
Narrow  Passage'  (Bab-ez-zakak),  'el 
estreoho,'  are  about  12  leagues  from 
Cape  Spartel  to  Ceuta,  and  from  this 
Cape  of  Trafalgar  to  Europe  Point,  in 
Spain.  The  narrowest  point  is  at  Ta- 
rifa, about  12  m.  A  constant  current 
sets  in  from  the  Atlantic  at  the  rate  of 
2J  m.  per  hour.  Across  to  the  right  rise 
the  low  hills  of  Africa,  Tangier  being 
almost  visible  to  the  naked  eye.  Geo- 
logists, who  in  their  conjectures  go  so 
far  as  to  admit  the  possibility  of  America 
and  Europe  once  forming  one  vast  con- 
tinent, find  it  an  easy  matter  to  connect 
Europe  with  Africa  by  a  supposed  isth- 
mus, which  must*  they  say,  have  existed 
about  this  point.  They  prore  this  by 
the  variations  of  soundings,  by  the  Phoe- 
nician tradition  of  a  canal  which  was 
cut  between  the  two  continents,  and 
over  which  a  bridge  was  built,  the  canal 
gradually  widening ;  and  by  urging 
that  the  geological  composition  of  several 
rocks  and  headlands  (that  of  Gibraltar 
included)  on  the  Spanish  portion,  be- 
long exclusively  to  the  N.  African  for 


mation,  differing  in  this  and  other  re- 
spects from  the  surrounding  Spanish 
continent,  etc.  Now  we  soon  run  close 
in  under  Spanish  land,  Sura  being  seen 
away  on  the  hill-top,  and  the  fort  and 
lighthouse  of  Tarifa  (see  Cadiz)  close 
to  us.  Gradually  steering  eastward, 
we  enter  into  stiller  waters ;  and  before 
us  rises  majestically,  grand,  all-mighty, 
bristling  with  cannon,  the  grey  rock 
on  which  proudly  waves  the  Union  Jack 
of  England.  Algeciras  is  on  our 
left,  San  Roque  a  little  to  the  W.,  and 
the  glorious  range  of  Spanish  bills  in 
the  distant  background.  Upon  the 
right  the  long  line  of  the  African  coast, 
charmingly  diversified,  reaches  away 
as  far  as  the  shadowy  Apes'  Hill,  which 
towers  above  where  Ceuta  lies,  while 
the  hitherto  bare  Spanish  shores  put 
on  an  unwonted  beauty  of  shape  and 
greenness.  For  boat  fares  at  Gibraltar 
see  p.  153. 


From  Malaga. — By  land,  riding  either  by 

^         Casarabonela,  6  leagues ;  ElBurgo, 

JkA   2 ;  Ronda,  3  =  11;  whence  by  rout* 

_CC"jj    described  Granada,  or  a  shorter  way 

mHkmmimm  and  one  we  can  recommend,  as  fol 

lows :_  Leagues. 

Malaga  to  Churriana 

Torremolinos    . 

Arroyo  de  la  Miel 

Benalmedina     . 

Fuengirola 

Marbella  .        .  (long)    4 

Venta  de  Quinones  .        .        .     1 
Venta  Casasol  ij 

Estepona ...  •     4 

Venta  de  la  Torre  .        .    x# 

Venta  de  la  Sabinilla  i 

Venta  de  Rio  Guadaro  .      f 

San  Roque       .  «i 

Gibraltar 

Horses  are  found  at  Mirallas  (Malaga).  The 
journey  is  paid  to  and  back,  horses  and  men. 
One  guide  is  sufficient  when  there  are  no 
ladies  or  considerable  laggage  in  the  case  (lug- 
gage can  be  mostly  sent  by  sea  to  Gibraltar, 
and  addressed  to  the  hotel).  Guides  may  bs 
obtained  at  the  Hotel  de  Roma,  etc.,  who  speak 
English,  and  understand  French ;  charge,  pes.  5 


GIBRALTAR -MALAGA  TO   GIBRALTAK — RIDING. 


151 


a  day,  meals  and  bed  included,  exclusive  of  his 
horse.  Side-chau?  can  be  procured  for  ladies,  and 
are  less  fatiguing,  but  not  quite  so  safe.  There 
is  a  short  cut  by  Coin,  Monda,  Ojen,  to  Mar- 
bella,  and  then  following  the  same  route,  but  it 
is  not  so  pleasant  as  the  one  recommended,  the 
only  attraction  being  the  site  of  the  battle  of 
Monda,  where,  on  March  17,  a.c.  47,  Julius 
Caesar  routed  the  sons  of  Pompey,  and  thus 
obtained  the  mastery  of  the  world.  The  jour- 
ney can  be  performed  in  two  days,  sleeping  at 
Marbella.  (We  rode  it  in  2}  days,  leaving 
Malaga  at  2.30  p.m.,  and  driving  as  far  as 
Arroyo  de  la  Miel,  where  we  rode  the  horses 
sent  beforehand,  and  arrived  at  La  Fuengirola 
at  7  p.m.) 

Tuengirola.— Inn:  Posada  del  Salvador; 
clean  beds,  and  no  need  for  zoological  researches 
— trust  to  the  gazpacho  and  rice.  This  small 
village  and  castle  stand  most  picturesquely  on 
a  crag.  As  one  approaches  it  the  heights  of 
Sierra  Blanca  are  descried  to  the  right,  and  to 
the  left  roll  the  quiet  blue  waves  of  the  Medi- 
terranean, with  the  sandy  beach  glimmering  in 
the  distance,  and  studded  with  isolated  watch-  j 
towers,  mostly  of  Moorish  style,  dating  from 
the  troubled  times  of  constant  surprises,  inroads, 
and  rebellions,  characteristic  of  the  protracted 
war  between  the  Crescent  and  the  Cross.  ) 
Fuengirola  was  the  Sual  of  the  Romans,  and 
Sohail  of  the  Moors,  so  called  because  from  its 
neighbouring  hill  the  star  Sohail,  the  Canopus, 
is  the  only  point  in  Spain  from  which  it  can  be 
seen.  Ibn-Al-Kathib  says  it  was  the  object  of 
constant  landings  of  Christians,  and  that  its 
inhabitants  were  a  bad  sort  of  people. 

Leave  Fuengirola  at  6  a.m.,  glancing,  as  you 
pass,  on  the  Castillo  de  Calahorra  (Kalat- 
Horreah)  and  the  wild  Monte  and  Puerto  de 
Mijas,  reach  Castillo  de  Cana  del  Moral,  8.30, 
and  Casa  Fuerte  or  Castillo  del  Moro  at  10 
a.m.  Observe  this,  and  a  little  beyond  the 
Torre  de  los  Ladrones,  which  is  doorless,  and 
entered  by  means  of  ladders.  These  are  each 
and  all  associated  with  traditions,  mostly  tales 
of  war,  bold  deeds,  and  scenes  of  bloodshed. 
The  scenery  is  wild,  the  paths  now  and  then 
precipitous.  Sierra  de  Marbella  rises  on  the 
right,  pregnant  with  rich  iron-mines,  which  are 
worked  by  Malaga  enterprise. 

Marbella  (where  dine)  is  charmingly  situated 
amidst  orange  -gardens  ;  pop.  8000.  Ibn-Al- 
Kathib  and  Idrisi  praise  Marballah  for  its  un- 
rivalled grapes  and  figs,  but  call  it  a  tent  of  strife, 
where  blood  was  shed  constantly  by  the  enemies 
of  Islam,  as  it  was  peopled  by  true  believers, 
whence  its  other  figurative  name  of  '  the  Land 
of  Predication  in  the  sacred  months,'  etc  The 
views  from  its  Alameda  are  extensive ;  the  white 
wa'ls  of  Tangier  glitter  on  the  opposite  shore, 


and  the  rock  of  Gibraltar  rises  in  the  distance, 
On  beholding  the  sea  from  this  spot,  Isabella  is 
said  to  have  exclaimed,  in  rapture  with  the 
scene,  '  Que*  mar  bella ! '  whence  the  name 
Marbella  has  been  erroneously  derived  by 
some.  Hotel  accommodation  in  this  rapidly 
increasing  town— increasing  with  the  develop- 
ment of  the  vast  mineral  wealth  of  the  district 
—leaves  much  to  be  desired,  but  the  Fonda  de 
Sandalio  Chicote  is  fair.  H.B.M.  Vice-Consul, 
Dn.  M.  Calzado.  The  climate  is  delicious  and 
wholesome,  the  air  more  genial  and  moist  than 
at  Malaga,  and  when  the  communications  be- 
tween Gibraltar  and  Malaga  become  more 
practicable,  this  will  deservedly  become  a 
favourite  medical  station.  The  town  has  a 
good  port,  and  rapidly  increasing  trade.  The 
4  leagues  from  Fuengirola  to  Marbella  appear 
much  longer  than  the  5  leagues  between  this 
and  Estepona,  an  anomaly  frequent  on  Spanish 
roads.  To  right  extends  the  thickly  planted 
Posesion  of  Marshal  Concha,  Marques  del 
Duero,  near  the  unwholesome  ague-stricken 
hamlet  of  San  Pedro  Alcantara.  Observe  the 
sugar-canes  how  luxuriantly  they  grow  and 
thrive  in  this  climate — the  best  thermometer  to 
consult.  There  is  excellent  shooting  between 
this  and  Estepona,  which  is  mostly  a  preserve 
of  the  Marshal's.  Ford  the  Guadalmanza  twice, 
pass  by  a  Torre  of  same  name,  and  turning  to 
right  by  Venta  de  la  Tia,  Estepona  will  be 
reached  at  7  p.m.,  shortly  after  crossing  the  Rio 
Verde. 

Estepona.— 9316  inhab.  N.E.  of  Sierra 
Bermeja;  seaport — the  Esthebbunah  of  the 
Moors,  but  of  earlier  foundation  (Cilniana  of 
the  Romans),  as,  according  to  the  history  of 
this  city  written  by  Abn  Bekr-el-Idrisi  Alfarabi, 
and  what  Ibn-Al-Kathib  states,  it  contained  in 
their  time  ruins  of  several  monuments.  The 
castle  was  built  by  the  Romans,  and  there  are 
some  ruins  of  an  ancient  aqueduct  of  Salduba 
at  Las  Bovedas.  The  best  inn  is  that  of  the 
Alcalde  (dear ;  without  ordinary  meat  to  offer 
the  hungry  traveller).  Estepona,  a  small, 
clean  town,  supplies  Gibraltar  with  fruit  and 
vegetables.  Its  sierra  and  that  of  Casares 
abound  with  cabras  montesas,  roebucks,  etc. 

Leave  next  morning  at  9,  or,  what  is  better, 
at  7,  so  as  to  reach  Gibraltar  early.  (There  is 
a  road  from  Estepona  to  Ronda,  which  lies  7 
leagues  across  a  hilly  district,  and  to  N.W. 
another  to  Gaucin.)  Castillo  de  las  Sabinillas 
will  be  reached  at  xi  a.m.  Ford  the  Guadiaro 
(Fluvius  Barbesulas),  if  not  swollen  by  rain. 
There  is  a  ferry-boat,  a  few  yards  farther,  from 
which  passengers  are  landed  on  men's  shoulders. 
Fares,  xo  c.  each  person,  and  same  for  each 
horse.  Riders  may  save  an  hour  by  avoiding 
San  Roque.    San  Roque. — Province  of  Cadiz, 


GIBRALTAR. 


This  smuggling  populatjoi 


Gibraltar.     N.B.—A.  coast  line  of  railway 
Malaga  to  Gibraltar  a  projected. 

From  Malaga  and  Cadiz.  By  the 
steamers  of  Messrs.  John  Hall  and  Co., 
weekly,  in  about  8  lira.  ;  fares,  1st  cL, 
£1 ;  2d  cl.,  12s.  The  French  Com- 
pagnie  Generals  Trail aatl antique,  trad- 
ing between  Marseilles,  Malaga,  Gib- 
raltar, Oran,  and  Tangier,  form  an  ei- 
cellcnt  method  of  travel  for  those  who 
prefer  the  sea  ;  and  these  larger  boats, 
even  if  they  have  to  be  waited  for,  are 
vastly  better  than  small  coasting 
vessels.  For  other  less  regular  s' 
communications  see  announcements 
upon  the  walls  and  in  papers. 

From  Granada,  CHrdoba,  Sevilla,  eta., 
by  rail,  vid  Bobadilla  and  Honda. 
English  railway.     Two  trains  per  day 
and   the  bi-weekly    "  Sud  -  Express  " 
(leaving  Paris  Mon.  and  Fri.,  Gare  di 
Nord,  7.27  p.m.,  arriving  at  Gibraltar 
in  48  hours).     Fair  buffet  at  Ronda. 
Fares   from   Bobadilla   to   Algeci 
1st  cL,  Pes.  22.55  ;  2d  cL,  Pes.  16.96  ; 
3d  cl. ,  Pes.  10.25.     Steamer  fares  from 
Algeciras,    Pes.    1.40   and  Pes.   1."" 
With  the  North  German  Lloyd  di 
steamers  to  New  York  this  Algeev 
Bobadilla  line  affords  the  best  entrance 
to  Spain  from  the  Stales. 

Between  Gibraltar  and  Algeciras  the 
boats  run  as  follows ;  From  Algecir 


7,80  t 


,  10.6' 


,  2.0  P 


6.40  p.m.     Tickets  on  the  piers. 

Hotels.  — The  Royal  Motel,  opposite 
thoEichange,  old-established,  dear,  not 
very  good.  The  Europa,  on  the  New 
Hole   Parade,   quiet  and   reasonable, 


Scale,  t  inch  to  the  mile  (EnSliSb). 

Grand  Sotel,  and  the  Cdlpe  and  Cecil 
Hotel,  both  in  Watorport  Street,  fair, 
bat  noisy.  The  Bristol,  Cathedral 
Square,  best  situation.  Bargaining 
everywhere  necessary.  Pension  from 
10s.,  wine  exclusive.  Miss  Prescott's 
boarding-house,  2  Wbeatley  Terrace, 
for  a  lengthy  stay,  and  several  others, 
can  be  recommended.    Pension  from 

Regulations.  —  Strict  regulations 
concerning  foreigners  and  British  sub- 
jects are  observed  here,  and  martial 


GIBRALTAR. 


153 


law  rules  on  the  rock.  No  foreigner 
can  reside  without  his  consul  or  a  house- 
holder becoming  his  security.  Permits 
of  residence  are  granted  by  the  police- 
magistrate  for  ten,  fifteen,  and  twenty 
days  ;  military  officers  can  introduce  a 
stranger  for  thirty  days.  The  gates  are 
shut  at  sunset,  immediately  after  the 
evening-gun  has  been  fired. 

Hours  of  gun-fire  (minimum  time), 
when  the  gates  are  opened  and  closed. 
Opened  in  the  morning,  Jan.,  6.15  to 
6.10 ;  Feb.,  6.10  to  5.40  ;  March,  5.40 
to  5;  April,  5  to  4.15;  May,  4.15  to 
3.45;  June,  3.45  to  3.50;  July,  3.50 
to  4.10  ;  Aug.,  4.10  to  4.40  ;  Sept.,  4.40 
to  5.5;  Oct.,  5.5  to  5.30  ;  Nov.,  5.30 
to  6  ;  Dec.,  6  to  6.15. 

Evening  Gun.  —Jan. ,  5. 35  to  6 ;  Feb. , 
0.5  to  6.30;  March,  6.35  to  6.55; 
April,  7  to  7.20;  May,  7.25  to  7.50; 
June,  7. 55  to  8  ;  July,  8  to  7. 40  ;  Aug., 
7.35  to  7.5  ;  Sept.,  6.55  to  6.20  ;  Oct., 
6.10  to  5.40  ;  Nov.,  5.35  to  5.20  ;  Dec, 
5.20  to  5.35. 

The  second  evening  gun  is  fired  at 

half-past  9  o'clock  throughout  the  year. 
N.B. — These  tables  are  most  useful  to 
those  riding  into  the  country,  as  the 
gates  are  afterwards  shut  for  the  night. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  Water- 
port  Street,  open  8-6  (Telegraph,  8-9) ; 
Sun.  10-11,  2-2.30,  5.30-6.30. 

All  letters  and  packets  must  be  pre- 
paid by  Gibraltar  postage  stamps. 
Letters  for  England  go  in  a  sealed  bag 
vid  Madrid.  The  mail  is  despatched 
at  5.40  a.m.,  reaching  London  on  the 
fourth  day,  Paris  on  the  third  day,  and 
Madrid  on  the  second  day.  A  letter, 
therefore,  posted  in  Gibraltar  early  on 
Monday  morning  is  delivered  in 
London  on  Thursday  night,  or  in  the 
provinces  on  Friday  morning.  Letters 
from  London  are  despatched  twice 
daily,  but  the  evening  mail  waits  for  the 
early  despatch  of  the  following  morn- 
ing, and  both  are  delivered  together  in 
Gibraltar  on  the  evening  of  the  fourth 


day.  Letters  for  the  United  States,  West 
Indies,  the  States  of  South  America, 
Canada,  etc.,  are  sent  in  the  London 
closed  bag,  unless  some  other  route  is 
specially  named  on  the  envelope. 

Correspondence  for  Malta,  Egypt, 
and  the  East,  with  Australia  and  New 
Zealand,  is  forwarded  weekly. 

The  postal  rates  are  : — For  Spain  and 
Tangier,  Id.  for  a  letter  not  exceeding 
i  oz.  ;  2d.  for  1  oz.  Newspapers,  Jd. 
for  2  oz.  and  every  additional  2  oz. 
For  countries  within  the  Postal  Union, 
2£d.  for  letters  not  exceeding  J  oz. ; 
5d.  for  1  oz.  Newspapers,  Jd.  for  2 
oz.  and  for  every  additional  2  oz. 

Telegraph.— Telegrams  to  England 
vid  France  or  Bilbao  (but  route  must 
be  specified),  4  pesetas  50  cts.  for  10 
words ;  9  pesetas  40  cts.  for  20  words, 
with  a  ground  tax  of  5  words. 

Carriages,  Cabs,  etc.  —For  fares  by 
distance  see  tariff  supplied.  By  time, 
Is.  6d.  per  hour  for  one  or  two  persons, 
with  6d.  for  every  additional  half -hour ; 
each  additional  passenger  to  pay  an 
extra  3d.  per  hour.  Horses,  3  dols. 
per  day.     From  hotel  to  port,  Is. 

Boats,  Tariff.  s.  d. 

To  New  Mole,  Ragged  Staff,  or  any 
part  of  Bay,  and  back  .         .        .        .26 

To  or  from  do. 16 

For  every  passenger  beyond  two     .        .10 
To  steam  tug's  anchorage  and  back        .     1    o 

To  or  from  do. 06 

For  every  passenger  above  two       .        .06 
To   Algeciras    steamer   and    back,   per 

passenger 06 

To  or  from  do.,  per  passenger  .        .03 

From  Ragged  Staff  to  any  vessel  in  Bay 

and  back 26 

To  or  from  do. 16 

From  Ragged  Staff  to  P.  and  O.  steamer 
or  any  vessel  within  New  Mole  .  .16 
One  quarter  of  an  hour's  detention  included 
in  above  rates,  with  6d.  for  every  additional 
quarter.  Luggage  not  exceeding  56  lbs.  free. 
Every  additional  56  lbs.  or  fraction  thereof  56. 
(50  c). 

General  Description. — This  famous 
fortress  (the  Calpe  of  the  ancients)  is 
situated  on  the  W.  side  of  a  lofty  pro- 
montory or  rock,  which  projects  into 
the  sea  in  a  southerly  direction,  some 
3  miles,  being  one-half  to  three  quar- 


154 


GIBRALTAR. 


ters  of  a  mile  in  width.  The  town 
lies  on  the  western  slopes  of  the  rocky 
mountain,  the  highest  portions  of 
which  (1430  ft.),  though  apparently 
naked,  are,  on  closer  survey,  found  to 
be  clothed  with  African  vegetation. 
What,  however,  is  most  remarkable  is, 
that  this  rock,  outwardly  so  harmless 
in  appearance,  is  all  undermined  and 
tunnelled  with  wonderful  ingenuity 
and  at  enormous  expense,  and  now  and 
then,  behind  a  palmito,  or  between  two 
prickly  pears,  the  yawning  mouth  of  a 
cannon  will  just  peep  out,  like  a  bull- 
dog at  bay.  The  E.  and  S.  sides  are 
very  rugged,  and  almost  perpendicular, 
and  their  being  fortified  is  quite  a 
display  of  defiance,  as  they  are  totally 
inaccessible.  Its  northern  side,  front- 
ing the  narrow  isthmus  which  connects 
it  with  Spain,  is  precipitous,  and  not 
less  accessible;  yet  perhaps  the  only 
one  by  which  an  army  could  begin  the 
assault  The  circumference  is  7  miles, 
the  length,  N.  to  S.,  about  3. 

The  W.  side,  facing  the  sea,  is  ap- 
parently the  weakest,  and  the  portion 
to  right  of  Ragged  Staff  Stairs,  and  all 
about  Jumper's  Battery,  was  certainly 
not  as  strongly  fortified  as  the  rest 
before  the  new  works  were  begun,  and 
here  the  English  landed  under  Admiral 
Rooke.  One  of  the  extreme  ends  of 
the  rock,  facing  the  sea,  is  Europa 
Point,  where  a  lighthouse  and  batteries 
have  been  erected ;  the  other,  on  the 
opposite  extremity,  is  called  Punta  de 
Espana.  The  neutral  ground  is  the 
strip  of  land  dividing  the  rock  from 
the  mainland,  the  portion  belonging  to 
England  being  all  undermined ;  it  could 
also  be  instantly  submerged.  A  little 
beyond  is  the  Campo  de  Gibraltar,  and 
the  lines  (lineas)  where  the  Spanish 
sentry,  the  burnt-up,  black-eyed,  thin, 
ill-fed,  but  picturesque  child  of  the  sun 
mounts  lazily  guard  in  front  of 
the  fair-haired,  blue-eyed,  and  prosaic 


son  of  fog  and  rain.  The  precipi- 
tous sides  of  the  grey  limestone  rock 
are  verdant  in  spring  and  autumn,  and 
the  scattered  orchards  produce  excellent 
fruit ;  in  summer  they  become  tawny 
and  bare.  There  is,  at  that  season  of 
the  year,  a  want  of  circulation  of  air, 
which,  added  to  the  extreme  heat, 
scorching  Levanter,  and  absence  oi 
trees,  makes  Gibraltar  next  to  intoler- 
able. The  rock,  moreover,  rising  be- 
hind the  town,  reflects  the  heat,  and 
checks  the  currents  of  air. 

The  highest  point  of  the  rock  is  called 
the  Signal,  or  El  Macho.  From  it  the 
panorama  is  unrivalled.  The  eye,  from 
this  eagle's  eyrie,  sweeps  over  two  seas, 
two  quarters  of  the  world,  and  what 
four  hundred  years  ago  constituted  five 
kingdoms — viz.,  Granada,  Seville,  etc. 
Beyond  the  straits  looms  the  mysterious 
verdant  (not  arid)  Africa,  with  its  king- 
doms of  Fez,  Mequinez,  Morocco,  and 
its  ports  of  Tangier  and  Ceuta — the 
Abyla  of  the  Phoenicians. 

When  first  seen  from  the  sea,  the 
great  rock  bursts  suddenly  into  the  blue 
air,  a  height  of  1430  ft.,  rising,  as  it 
were,  from  under  the  waves,  as  the  land 
about  it  is  all  flat,  low,  and  does  not 
appear  linked  to  it ;  it  rises  like  a  mon- 
strous monolith,  a  fragment  of  some 
shattered  world  dropped  here  by  chance, 
and  not  ill  compared,  by  a  foreign 
writer,  to  a  gigantic  granite  sphinx, 
whose  shoulders,  groins,  and  croup 
would  lie  towards  Spain,  with  the  long, 
broad,  loose,  flowing,  and  undulating 
outlines,  like  those  of  a  lion  asleep,  and 
whose  head,  somewhat  truncated,  is 
turned  towards  Africa,  as .  if  with  a 
dreamy  and  steadfast  deep  attention. 
Towards  the  W.,  in  the  distance,  we 
can  descry  the  high  summits  of  the  arid 
Cuervo,  the  hills  of  Ojen  and  Sonorra  ; 
to  N.  the  range  of  the  Sierra  de  Ronda; 
and  towards  the  E.,  following  the  wide 
outline  of  land  formed  by  the  Mediter- 


GIBRALTAR. 


165 


ranean,  all  the  creeks,  miniature  har- 
bours, and  promontories  of  the  indented 
coast,  the  small  town  of  Estepona,  part 
of  Marbella,  farther  on  the  hazy  peaks 
of  Sierra  Bermeja,  and  finally,  blending 
with  the  luminous  skies,  the  snowy 
heights  of  Alpujarras  and  Sierra  Ne- 
vada. At  our  feet  lies  the  now  almost 
imperceptible  town  of  Gibraltar,  and 
yonder,  in  the  bay,  the  three-deckers  at 
anchor,  which  look  like  so  many  play- 
things, or  miniature  ships,  whilst, 
sweeping  across  the  quiet  blue  sheet  of 
sunlit  water,  the  eye  rests  pleasantly  on 
the  terraced  gay-looking  Algeciras,  and 
to  the  right  San  Roque  and  its  cork-tree 
forest. 

The  Fortifications. — A  permit  must 
be  obtained  at  the  office  of  tbe 
Military  Secretary,  in  Governor's 
Lane,  and  a  gunner  conducts  visitors 
through  the  galleries.  The  defences 
of  the  rock  are  wonderfully  contrived  ; 
the  result  of  constant  and  close  in- 
vestigation of  every  nook  and  corner 
liable  to  surprise.  In  the  course  of  this 
visit  we  pass  first  the  Moorish  castle 
(which  is  not  shown),  one  of  the  earliest 
Moorish  works  in  Spain,  having  been 
erected,  according  to  the  Arabic  inscrip- 
tion over  the  S.  gate,  in  725,  by  Abu 
Abul  Hajez.  The  Torre  del  Homenage, 
which  is  riddled  with  shot-marks,  is 
picturesque,  with  a  fine  circular  arch. 

The  Galleries. — Near  this  are  the 
'galleries, 'excavated  along  the  N.  front, 
and  in  tiers.  These  contain  thirty-seven 
guns  of  different  calibre,  some  mounted 
on  stocks,  in  order  to  change  the  level 
when  required.  The  smoke  when  the 
guns  are  fired  issues  freely,  causing  no 
serious  inconvenience  to  the  gunners, 
save  when  strong  easterly  winds  prevail. 
Visit  the  Cornwallis  and  St  George's 
Hall,  the  latter  of  which  is  50  ft.  by  35 
ft.  The  engineering  of  these  tunnelled 
galleries,  the  distribution  of  the  guns, 
the  lighting  up,  the  deposits  for  shot  and 


powder,  are  admirable,  though  exceeding, 
perhaps,  all  the  strict  requirements ;  it  is 
1  le  luxe  et  la  coquetterie  de  l'imprenable.' 
Signal  Tower. — Upon  leaving  the 
galleries  visitors  should  ascend  to  the 
Signal  Tower,  along  zigzag  roads. 
On  the  way  they  are  likely  to  meet, 
or  rather  descry  in  the  distance,  some 
of  the  advanced  guard  of  the  maraud- 
ing monkeys,  the  tenants  of  the  rock, 
who,  as  first  occupants  of  the  soil, 
have  been  always  respected  both  by 
Spaniards  and  English.  The  bravest 
come  down  from  the  tops  at  night-fall, 
and  lurk  about  the  orchards  in  search 
of  fruit  and  stray  chickens ;  others,  more 
prudent,  keep  to  the  palmitos  and 
prickly  pear,  which  they  carry  with 
them  to  discuss  on  the  rocks.  The  at 
one  time  dwindled  numbers  are  now  on 
the  increase.  From  the  Signal  Station 
(the  view  from  which  has  been  already 
described)  proceed  to  the  stalactite 
Cave  of  St.  Michael,  which  presents 
a  fine  sight  when  illuminated.  The 
ruins  of  the  O'Hara  Tower,  or  Folly, 
may  next  be  seen,  situated  on  the  S. 
point  of  the  rock,  and  which  was  built 
by  that  officer  to  watch  the  movements 
of  the  Spanish  fleet  at  Cadiz,  and  de- 
stroyed by  lightning  soon  after  its  com- 
pletion. The  view  it  affords  of  the  S. 
district  is  very  fine  and  extensive.  Then 
return  by  the  geranium-planted  avenues 
and  narrow  lanes  into  the  city.  Those 
who  interest  themselves  in  military  de- 
fences may  visit,  in  the  lower  portion  of 
the  rock,  the  Devil's  Tongue  Battery, 
close  to  Water  Port,  then  following  the 
sea  or  line  wall  to  King's  Bastion,  after- 
wards by  the  gate  and  walls  built  by 
Charles  V.,  passing  on  to  South  Port, 
Victoria  Battery,  and  Orange  Bastion, 
to  the  gardens.  On  their  right  are  the 
Ragged  Staff  Stairs  and  Jumper's  Bat- 
tery. Ascend  Scud  Hill,  as  far  as  Wind- 
mill Hill.  Visit  the  Naval  Hospital, 
South  Barracks,  Pavilion,  etc. 


156 


GIBRALTAR. 


The  City  is  most  uninteresting  and 
dull.  It  consists  of  uniform  white- 
washed huge  barracks,  and  low,  flat- 
roofed,  and  darkly-painted  houses, 
mostly  made  of  bricks,  plaster,  and 
wood,  after  an  Italian,  or  rather  no 
style.  The  streets  are  narrow  and 
winding ;  the  principal  one  is  Water- 
port  Street,  which  is  lined  with  very  in- 
different shops,  where  prices  are  higher 
than  in  England.  English  comforts, 
however,  can  be  procured,  including 
excellent  tea,  ales,  cigars,  English 
medicines,  firearms,  saddlery,  etc. 

The  Alameda  is  the  pride  of  Gib- 
raltar, and  is  truly  charming,  being 
laid  out  in  the  English  style,  and 
abounding  in  beautiful  geraniums  and 
bowers.  It  commands  fine  views  of 
the  straits  and  coast  of  Africa.  At  the 
entrance  is  the  drilling-ground,  where 
the  regimental  bands  play  in  the 
evening.  The  monuments  to  the  Duke 
of  Wellington  and  General  Elliot  are 
mean  and  tasteless.  The  Alameda 
then  becomes  the  fashionable  lounge, 
and  the  spectacle  presented  by  the 
close  contrast  of  populations  of  ex- 
treme points  of  Europe  is  quite  novel 
and  curious.  The  London  bonnet  and 
Mrs.  Brown's  hats  are  seen  side  by  side 
with  the  mantilla  de  tiro ;  blue  eyes  and 
rosy  complexions  next  melting  black 
eyes  and  olive-dark  cutis.  The  different 
mien,  toilette,  language,  and  walk  are  all 
striking.  Theophile  Gauthier  thus  de- 
scribes the  effect  produced  on  his 
humorous  mind  by  this  scene: — *Je 
ne  puis  exprimer  la  sensation  d6sagr£- 
able  que  j'eprouvai  a  la  vue  de  la  pre- 
miere Anglaise  que  je  rencontrai,  un 
chapeau  a  voile  vert  sur  la  tSte,  mar- 
chant  comme  un  grenadier  de  la  garde, 
au  moyen  de  gnmds  pieds  chausses  de 
grands  brodequins.  Ce  n'^tait  pas 
qu'elle  fut  laide,  au  contraire,  niais 
j'6tais  accoutum6  a  la  pure  to"  de  race, 
a  la  finesse  du  cheval  arabe,  a  la  grace 


exquise  de  d-marche,  a  la  mignonnerie 
et  a  la  gentillesse  andalouses,  et  cette 
figure  rectiligne,  au  regard  etonn6,  a 
la  physionomie  morte,  aux  gestes  angu- 
leux,  avec,  sa  tenue  exacte  et  nietho- 
dique,  son  parfum  de  'cant,'  et  son 
absence  de  tout  naturel,  me  produisit 
un  effet  comiquement  sinistre.  II  me 
sembla  que  j'etais  mis  tout-a-coup  en 
presence  du  spectre  de  la  civilisation, 
mon  ennemie  mortelle.' 

There  are  no  buildings  of  particular 
interest.  The  governor's  house  is  in- 
different, the  synagogues  poorly  de- 
corated, the  English  and  Spanish 
churches  not  worth  visiting.  Religious 
toleration  rules  side  by  side  with  liberty 
of  commerce.  There  are  two  bishops, 
one  Anglican,  the  other  Roman. 

Tourists  should  not  neglect,  en  pas- 
sant, to  visit  the  several  markets,  if 
possible  early  in  the  morning  ;  not  so 
much  for  the  special  value  of  the- 
various  articles  offered  for  sale,  as  for 
picturesqueness  of  surroundings  and 
dress  of  the  motley  crowd.  Moors,  Turks, 
Greeks,  Jews,  the  Spanish  smuggler, 
the  Catalan  sailor,  the  red  coat  of  the 
English  private,  all  mingle  together, 
bawling,  disputing,  bargaining,  and 
cheating  in  their  different  tongues, 
ways,  and  gestures.  The  fish-market 
is  another  sight  not  to  be  omitted.  The 
fish  is  excellent  and  varied.  There  is 
always  a  good  supply  of  fruit  from 
Spain  and  Morocco ;  the  Tangerine 
oranges  are  exquisite. 

The  Bay  of  Gibraltar  is  spacious, 
and  sheltered  from  the  most  dangerous 
winds.  It  is  formed  by  two  head- 
lands— Europa  Point  on  the  rock,  and 
Cabrita  in  Spain.  Two  moles  have 
been  constructed  for  the  protection 
of  ships ;  the  old  one,  offering  none 
but  to  small  craft,  projects  from  the 
N.  end  of  the  town,  700  ft.  into  the 
sea.  Along  the  new  mole,  which  is  1$ 
m.  more  to  the  S.,  and  extends  1100  ft. 


GIBRALTAR — BAY. 


157 


outwards,  line-of-battle  ships  can  easily 
be  moored.  The  greatest  length  of  the 
bay  N.  tc  S.  is  8  m.  ;  the  width  E.  to 
W.  of  5  m.,  and  the  depth  in  the 
centre  exceeds  100  fathoms,  the  tide 
rising  some  4  ft.  ;  the  anchorage  is 
good,  the  bay  being  exposed  only  to 
S.W.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  trade  at 
Gibraltar,  as  it  is  a  free  port,  hampered 
with  but  few  restrictions. 

A  new  harbour,  with  three  graving- 
docks,  capable  of  receiving  the  largest 
ships,  and  a  commercial  and  coaling 
mole  are  now  (1898)  in  course  of  con- 
struction, at  a  cost  of  over  £4,000,000. 
British  products  to  the  value  of 
£545,000  are  imported  into  the  place  : 
the  revenue  amounts  to  £65,000,  and 
the   expenditure   to   a    slightly  less 

amount. 
History. — When  the  Phoenicians  (see 

Cadiz),  in  their  bold  and  distant  naval 
expeditions,  arrived  thus  far,  they  con- 
sidered this  to  be  the  end  of  the  world, 
and  called  it  Alube,  or  (according  to 
many)  Calpe  or  Calph,  a  '  caved  moun- 
tain.' Here  they  erected  one  of  the 
two  Pillars  of  Hercules,  the  other  being 
that  of  Abyla,  Abel  (Ceuta),  which 
rises  on  the  African  coast  some  2200 
ft.  high.  Tarik,  the  one-eyed  Berber 
invader,  attacked  and  took  the  place, 
April  30,  711,  and  to  commemorate  his 
first  victory  called  it  after  his  own 
name,  '  Ghebal-Tarlk. '  It  was  re- 
covered by  Guzman  el  Bueno  in  1309, 
but  surrendered  to  the  Moors  some 
years  after.  Another  Guzman  in  1462 
dispossessed  the  Infidel,  who  never  re- 
covered it  after  that  time.  During  the 
war  of  succession,  in  1704,  when  the 
garrison  consisted  of  only  eighty  men, 
Sir  George  Rooke,  by  a  sudden  attack, 
surprised  and  obtained  an  easy  posses- 
sion of  it.  Since  that  time,  and  not- 
withstanding repeated  efforts  made  by 
Spain  and  France,  and  a  siege  which 
lasted  four  years,  England  has  main- 


tained this  fortress  at  a  lavish  expendi- 
ture of  gold.  Of  late  years  there  has 
been  some  idle  talk  about  restoring 
Gibraltar  to  Spain,  and,  not  better 
founded,  offers  of  compensation  from 
the  Spanish  Government.  Gibraltar 
is  a  thorn  in  the  side  of  every  Spaniard, 
just  as  the  possession  of  Dover  by  the 
French  would  be  one  to  every  English- 
man. In  the  eyes  of  some  Spanish 
patriots  and  statesmen  it  is  a  'Car- 
thago delenda  est/  and  they  have  en- 
deavoured to  show  that  it  would  be  for 
the  interest  of  England  to  give  up  this 
stronghold.  Happily  all  such  argu- 
ments have  been  useless,  and  the  im- 
portant works  which  are  being  carried 
out,  in  connection  with  the  new  dock 
and  the  defences,  will  render  the  Rock 
and  station  of  greater  value  than  ever. 
In  England  Mr.  Bright,  who  was  the 
first  to  open  the  discussion,  declared  in 
Parliament  that  in  his  opinion  Gibraltar 
ought  to  be  given  back,  and  he  drew 
especial  attention  to  the  expenses*  in- 
curred by  England,  which  are  upwards 
of  £200,000  annually  in  time  of  peace 
(5000  men),  exclusive  of  material — the 
total  outlay  having  been  fifty  millions 
sterling  upon  its  defences.  Burke  held  a 
different  opinion  of  its  importance,  and 
referred  to  it  'as  a  post  of  power,  a  post 
of  superiority,  of  connection,  of  com- 
merce ;  one  which  makes  us  invaluable 
to  our  friends,  and  dreadful  to  our  ene- 
mies.' Its  importance  has  increased  as 
a  coal  dep6t  since  the  propagation  of 
steam.  It  affords  also  a  convenient 
and  secure  station  for  the  outfit  and 
repair  of  British  ships  of  war  and  mer- 
chantmen. There  are  stores  and  water- 
cisterns  which  would  supply  a  garrison 
of  150,000  men  during  two  years. 

Climate.— Here  the  Levanter,  the 
'  tyrant  of  Gibraltar,'  rules  with  more 
power  and  intensity  than  elsewhere, 

*  According  to  the  last  army  estimates,  Gib 
raltar  figures  for  4980  men,  at  a  cost  of  ,£206,060 


158 


GIBRALTAR. 


the  town  lying  open  to  its  influence. 
Its  prevalence  lasts  sometimes  for  six 
weeks,  and  even  two  months.  It  is 
peculiarly  fatal  to  children,  and  to 
advanced  stages  of  phthisis,  nervous 
constitutions,  and  generally  where 
debility  prevails.  The  W.  wind  is  also 
termed  the  'Liberator.'  There  is  an 
epidemic  malady,  called  'Gibraltar 
fever,'  which  breaks  out  in  the  autumn, 
but  its  visitation  is  at  rare  intervals. 
According  to  local  military  doctors, 
one  of  the  causes  of  pulmonary  diseases 
frequent  among  the  garrison  is  to  be 
ascribed  to  '  the  peculiar  nature  of  a 
soldier's  life,  which  is  not  favourable, 
when  compared  to  that  of  a  civilian,  to 
the  enjoyment  of  any  exemption  from 
chest  diseases,  which  a  warm  climate 
may  be  calculated  to  afford.'  Thus 
the  soldiers,  after  drinking  and  amus- 
ing themselves  in  the  town,  which  is 
warm  and  sheltered,  hasten,  when  the 
retreat  is  sounded  at  nightfall,  to  their 
barracks,  which  are  situated  on  the 
higher  and  more  airy  parts  of  the  rock. 
The  extreme  change  of  temperature 
then  occasions  diseases  erroneously 
attributed  to  the  climate.  The  rate  of 
mortality  has  been  steadily  decreasing 
of  late  years.  Thus  while  in  1862  it 
was  31*40  per  1000,  in  1884  it  was  only 
19  per  1000. 

Money  at  Gibraltar.—  By  an  order  in 
Council  of  May  2,  188 1,  the  following  currency 
has  been  settled  : — 

Gold  Pieces. — 100  pesetas;  50  pesetas;  25 
pesetas ;  10  pesetas ;  5  pesetas  (commonly  called 
dollars);  with  the  doblon  de  Isabel,  value  25 
pesetas;  the  4  escudo,  or  2  dollar  piece;  and 
the  2  escudo,  or  gold  dollar  piece. 

Silver. — 5  pesetas ;  2  pesetas ;  1  peseta ;  50 
centimos ;  20  centimos ;  with  the  2  escudo,  or 
peso  duro ;  the  z  escudo,  or  half-dollar ;  and  3 
reals  of  plate,  or  \  dollar. 

Bronze* — zo  centimos ;  5  centimos ;  2  centimos; 
z  centimo. 

Since  October  1,  1898,  British 
money  has  become  legal  tender,  and 
postage  and  postal  fees  are  in  British 
currency. 


N.B. — The  special  attention  of  tra- 
vellers is  draum  to  the  fact  that,  owing 
partly  to  the  disorganisation  of  the 
coinage  tariffs,  partly  to  the  complicated 
conditions  of  the  place,  extortion  is 
widely  practised  by  guides,  boatmen,  and 
cabbies.  Only  a  trifle  more  than  the 
legal  fares  should  be  given,  and  a 
bargain  should  be  made  at  the  outset. 
Complaints  of  extortion  should  be 
made  either  to  the  police,  or,  in  the 
case  of  boats,  at  the  Post  Office, 
Casemates  Square.  From  Messrs.  Cook 
and  Son,  Waterport  Street,  special 
tickets  and  other  facilities  may  be 
obtained  which  will  save  much  trouble 
and  expense.  Here,  too,  or  at  the 
hotels,  guides  should  alone  be  engaged 
(Garibaldi,  Bagaglo,  Hatchwell,  the 
three  best).  The  number  of  professed 
ciceroni  in  Gibraltar  is'  out  of  all  pro- 
portion to  the  demand. 

Bankers,  —  The  Anglo  -  Egyptian 
Bank,  Irish  Town. 

Consuls. — France,  M.  Eugene  Livio. 
Germany,  F.  Schott,  Esq.  Spain, 
Dn.  Fermin  Saenz  de  Tejada,  Church 
Street.     United  States,  H.  J.  Sprague. 

Doctors. — Wheeler,  Engineers  Lane  ; 
Triay,  Bell  Lane. 

Baths. — Market  Street. 

Bookseller  and  Stationer, — Beanland, 
Church  Street. 

Morocco,  etc.,  fancy  articles, — Beno- 
liel,  Gunner's  Lane. 

Wines  and  Cigars. — Saccone,  Market 
Street ;  Speed,  Waterport  Street. 

Amusements. — Theatre  Royal,Tennis, 
Polo,  Cricket  and  Rowing  Clubs.  The 
Garrison  Library,  45,000  vols.  Visitors 
admitted  upon  introduction.  Adjoining 
is  the  Pavilion,  with  bar,  smoking, 
billiard,  card  and  dressing  rooms. 
Several  good  Clubs  and  Philharmonic 
Societies,  to  which  admission  upon 
introduction  is  readily  obtained.  The 
bands  play  on  the  Alameda  on  Mon- 
days and  Thursdays,  at  9  p.m.  in  the 
summer,  and  4  p.m.  in  the  winter. 


GIJON. 


159 


Hunting  Club.  —  The  Calpc  Hunt 
Club  was  founded  by  Admiral  Fleming 
in  1814,  who  brought  here  a  pack  of 
hounds,  which  became  the  property  of 
the  club.  There  is  a  secretary,  to  whom 
apply  for  admittance.  The  sport  is 
good,  and  there  are  excellent  covers. 
A  good  hack  can  be  hired  for  the  day 
for  3  dollars.  The  best  meets  are  now  : 
2d  Venta,  Pine  Wood,  Malaga  road, 
Duke  of  Kent's  farm.  There  is  like- 
wise some  shooting,  woodcocks  espe- 
cially, in  the  cork -wood,  and  cabras 
montesas,  partridges,  and  wildfowl  are 
found  in  the  vicinity  of  Estepona  and 
the  convent  de  la  Almorayma,  14  m. 

Excursions. — To  Carteya. — An  early 
Carthaginian  city ;  remains  of  an  amphi- 
theatre, and  two  miles'  circuit  of  walls  ; 
some  very  interesting  coins  are  often 
dug  up,  and  sold  to  visitors.  To  Jimena. 
— Curious  grottoes  and  ruins  of  a  pic- 
turesquely-situated Moorish  castle.  Ex- 
cursion to  Tarifa.  (See  Cadiz.)  To 
the  convent  of  Almoraima  14}  m.  by 


San  Roque,  and  13J  m.  by  the  straight 
road,  and  4  m.  on  to  the  Castle  of  Cas- 
tellar,  owned  by  the  Duke  of  Medina- 
Cell  At  San  Pedro  Alcantara,  an  ex- 
tensive estate  recently  bought  by  Mar- 
shal Concha,  the  sugar-cane  is  being 
cultivated  on  a  very  large  scale.  The 
town  is  unwholesome;  parts  of  the 
grounds  abound  with  game.  Algeciras. 
A  special  steamer  plies  daily  between 
Gibraltar  and  Algeciras,  In  a  boat, 
with  favourable  wind  and  oar,  about  3 
to  4  hrs.  going  and  returning,  which 
can  be  done  for  SOr.  (vellon)  per  head, 
for  a  small  party  (see  pp.  98,  152). 

Distances  to  the  most  frequented  points. 

Miles. 
Waterport  Gate  to  Lines   .        .        .        .      \\ 
Campo         •        •        •      31 
San  Roque  ...      6 
First     river     called 

Guadarranque  d 

,,  Ximena       .        .        .34 

„  Tarifa  by  the  land       .    24 

„  Los  Barrios.        .        .     za 

Algeciras,  by  the  beach     10 

Algeciras,  across  the  bay    5 \ 


if 
»» 


i» 
»» 
»? 


Carteya 


For  Tangiers,  etc.,  see  Morocco. 


GIJON. 


Province  of  Oviedo,  capital  of  a  con- 
cejo,  Asturian  sea -port  (habilitado). 
Pop.  20,500. 

Hotels :  La  Iberia,  on  the  port ; 
Suizo,  Calle  Corrida ;  De  Espafia,  facing 
the  sea.     The  first  the  best. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offices,  Calle  de 
Jovellanos,  46. 

H.B.M.  V. -Consul,  W.  Penlington, 
Esq. 

Routes  and  Conv. — From  Oviedo 
and  Leon,  by  rail,  two  through  trains 
per  day  both  ways  (three  from  Oviedo). 
Distance,  171  kil.  Time,  6  hours. 
Fares,  lstcl.,  Pes.  17.70;  2dcl.,  13.30  ; 
3d  cl.,  8.00.  For  description  of  route 
as  far  as  Oviedo,  see  Oviedo. 

From  Santander.  By  land  (see  Ovi- 
edo).    By  steamer  frequently  in  about 


9  hours.  Ditto  from  Vigo,  Corona  and 
Ferrol,  in  12  to  20  hrs. 

From  Bayonne,  Nantes,  Bordeaux, 
Havre,  London  and  Liverpool  (Mac- 
Andrews'  line),  and  Southampton.  For 
these,  as  for  all  other  steamer  routes, 
apply  to  the  agents  at  the  various 
ports  and  see  advts.,  etc 

From  AviUs,  by  rail  (change  at 
Villabona).  From  Villaviciosa  by 
daily  diligence. 

Gijon  is  usually  reached  from  Oviedo 
by  rail  or  road.  The  road  traverses 
the  pretty  country  about  the  feligresias 
of  Lugones,  and  the  small  sierra  close 
to  Venta  de  la  Campana,  which  forms 
part  of  the  Asturian  mountains.  Half- 
way is  the  ruined  very  early  church  of 


160 


GIJON. 


Villardoveyo.  It  is  of  the  Latin  or 
Romano -Byzantine  style.  Close  to 
Venta  de  Veranes  are  the  ruins  of  a 
Templar's  monastery.  From  the  Vega 
of  Porceyo  one  can  already  descry  Gijon. 
General  Description.  —  Gijon  is 
Bituated  on  the  slopes  of  a  hill  or  head- 
land, surrounded  almost  on  every  side 

by  the  Mar  Cantabrica.  The  annual 
valae  of  imports — cereals,  machinery, 

pitch,  cotton  etc.  goods  —  is  about 
£360,000  ;  of  exports — manufactured 
zinc,  nuts,  quicksilver,  etc. — £140,000. 
The  excellent  port  deserves  greater 
prosperity,  being  easy  of  entrance  at 
all  times,  with  a  good  bottom  and 
depth  of  water.  The  roadstead  is  de- 
fended by  the  small  promontories  of 
Capes  San  Lorenzo  and  Torres,  and  it 
has  become  one  of  the  many  fashion- 
able sea-bathing  resorts  of  the  north- 
west. The  coalfields,  which  abound 
close  by,  at  Langreo  and  elsewhere,  are 
a  great  source  of  trade,  and  the  more 
so  since  the  opening  of  several  local 
lines,  which  bid  fair  to  make  Gijon  a 
great  trade  centre. 

Historically,  it  is  not  the  Gigia  of 
Ptolemy,  but  the  early  Gegio  of  the 
Romans.  Easily  taken  and  retained  by 
the  Moors,  it  became  the  residence  of 
Munuza,  its  Moorish  governor,  who 
surrendered  the  town  to  Pelayo,  after 
the  loss  of  the  battle  of  Canicas.  Some 
writers  have  asserted  that  Pelayo's  suc- 
cessors were  styled  Kings  of  Gijon,  but 
it  is  an  erroneous  interpretation  of  the 
Carta  de  Fundacion  of  Obona  ;  '  Adel- 
gaster  filius  regis  Gegionis'  ought  to  be 
read,  *  regis  Silonis.'  At  the  time  of 
its  prosperity  the  city  was  confined  to 
the  headland  that  projects  between  the 
ensenadas.  The  sea  isolated  it,  and 
the  only  communications  between  were 
carried  on  by  a  large  and  wide /aw,  and 
by  a  lagoon,  or  humedal,  with  an  almost 
impracticable  embouchure.  In  Philip 
II. 'a  time  Gijon  possessed  good  arsenals, 
and  the  Invincible  Armada  was    re- 


paired here.  In  1552-54,  Charles  V 
granted  money  to  the  burghers,  to  build 
a  cay,  or  quay,  and  a  new  one  was 
built  in  1766  by  Pedro  Menendez. 

Sights. — On  entering  the  town  ob- 
serve the  fine  gate  del  Infante,  erected 
by  Charles  III.  in  commemoration  of 
Pelayo,  Infans  Pelagius,  and  which 
opens  on  the  largest  street  here,  called 
'  La  Corrida,'  which  crosses  the  whole 
city,  and  leads  to  the  port  or  muelle. 
The  town  is  clean  and  improving,  but 
wanting  in  objects  of  interest.  The 
Colegiata  and  San  Pedro  (1410)  are  in- 
different. In  the  latter  is  the  tomb  of 
Jovellanos  and  his  marble  bust.  This 
great  and  true  patriot  was  a  native  of 
Gijon  (bom  January  5, 1744),  who  died 
at  Vega,  1811.  The  Instituto  Jovel- 
lanos, in  the  street  of  that  name,  con- 
tains an  excellent  small  collection  of 
drawings,  etc., — by  A.  Cano,  Correggio, 
A.  Diirer,  Goya,  G.  Reni,  G.  Romano 
Murillo,  Rembrandt,  Titian,  P. 
Veronese,  Zurbaran, — also  a  fair  library 
(fee,  pes.  1).  Cean  Bermudez,  the 
famous  Spanish  art  critic,  was  also 
born  here.  The  tobacco-manufacture 
employs  upwards  of  1400  female  hands. 

Excursion  to  Langreo.— Distance,  39  kil. 
Time,  2}  hrs.  Fares,  xst  cl.,  i6r. ;  2d  cl.,  Z2r. 
20c. ;  3d  cl.,  8r.  20c.  Two  trains  a  day.  This 
railroad,  which  has  been  made  especially  for 
the  coal-pits,  was  the  work  of  Sefior  Aguado,  an 
enterprising  capitalist, — a  gentleman  of  good 
birth  and  connections  in  Andalusia,  who  died 
in  the  winter  of  1842,  on  his  journey  to  Gijon, 
from  cold  and  starvation.  The  rail  goes  to 
Oscura  or  Labiana,  whence  conveyances  can  be 
had  to  the  mines.  The  latter  are  no  longer 
worked  by  any  but  Spanish  capital.  The  coal- 
beds  in  some  places  run  13  ft.  thick,  the  average 
being  between  3  and  4  ft.  The  coal  is  excellent. 
Upwards  of  1,000,000  tons  were  raised  in  1896 ; 
233>7°°  tons  being  shipped  coastwise.  Anglers 
can  try  the  Nalon,  near  which  is  the  fine 
palacio  of  the  Marq.  de  Campo  Sagrado. 

Excursion  to  Deva. — 1  league.  Visit  the 
church,  dates  1006.  Also,  near  Gijon,  visit 
Church  of  Sta.  Maria  de  Valdedios,  founded 
892  by  Alfonso  el  Magno.  The  newer  church 
was  built  by  Alfonso  IX. 


161 


QRANADA 


Capital  of  province  of  Granada,  re- 
sidence of  Captain-General.  Pop.  of 
province,  about  478,000 ;  of  city,  about 
77,000. 

Routes  and  Conveyances. — From 
Madrid  to  Cordova,  where  change  (see 
page  110).  Cordova  to  Granada  (change 
at  Bobadilla)  two  trains  daily  in  8 
hours  (mail),  or  10  hours  by  slow  train. 
Fares  from  Cordova :  1st  cl.,  Pes.  17.70 ; 
2d  cl.,  Pes.  14.15;  3d  cl.,  Pes.  10.65. 
Or  change  at  Espeluy  and  go  to  Puente 
Genii,  w&  Jaen.  Three  trains  daily. 
This  is  a  convenient  route,  and  allows 
of  a  visit  to  the  interesting  old  city  of 
Jaen.  From  Jaeh  dil.  daily  to  Granada, 
16J  leagues  (49£  miles). 

Itinerary. 


Leagues 

Jaen  to  Venta  del  Chava 

I                 .     4 

Campilo  de  Arenas 

•     3* 

Cortijo  de  Andar    . 

2 

Venta  de  Mitagalan 

•     3 

Chaparral 

2 

x6£ 
This  road,  most  of  which  was  opened 
in  1828,is  excellent  and  well-engineered, 
and  passes  through  a  country  wild  and 
picturesque  in  certain  portions.  There 
are  some  dwarfish  oaks,  broom,  and 
heather.  The  aloe  appears  for  the  first 
time,  and  Andalusia — the  Moor's  earthly 
paradise,  the  enchanted  land — now  lies 
before  you  ;  and  truly, 

La  terra  molle  e  lieta,  e  dilettosa, 
Simili  a  se  gli  abbitator  produce. 

Jaen. — Capital  of  province  of  same 
name ;  population,  22,938.  Inns. — 
Fonda  Madrilena  ;  Fonda  Francesa  ; 
fair.  The  province  of  Jaen  (Ara- 
bice,  Jayyan)  was  an  independent 
Moorish  kingdom  of  268  square 
leagues.  It  produces  the  olive  and 
vine,   which    yield   inferior   oil   and 


common  heady  wine.  The  fruit  is 
exquisite,  especially  the  melons  of 
Granena,  peaches  of  Alcaudete,  pome- 
granates from  Jimena,  and  pears  from 
Jandulilla.  There  are  no  cattle,  and 
but  few  sheep.  The  formerly  celebrated 
breed  of  bulls  has  disappeared,  as  also 
the  swift,  thin-legged,  beautiful  horses 
of  the  Loma  de  Ubeda,  whose  original 
Arab  blood  can  scarcely  now  be  traced 
in  the  present  ' jacas  de  terciopelo,'  as 
the  song  has  it,  of  Jaen.  There  are 
abundant  lead-mines,  yielding  upwards 
of  28,000  metrical  quintals  per  annum. 
Public  instruction  is  at  so  low  an  ebb 
that,  out  of  a  population  of  362,466, 
only  60,731  are  supposed  to  be  able  to 
read  1  The  consequence  is,  that  there 
occur  from  350  to  400  murders  and  cases 
of  lesiones  corporate  a-year,  and  250  to 
300  robberies,  etc. 

Jaen,  the  Roman  Auringi,  was  the 
head-quarters  of  the  Carthaginians,  and 
became  the  terror  of  the  Romans  until 
the  capture  of  it  by  Lucius  Scipio  Afri- 
canus  (T.  Livy,  1.  28,  cap.  iii.)  The 
city  became  prosperous  under  their  rule, 
but  no  vestiges  remain  of  their  passage 
save  a  few  slabs,  with  inscriptions  show- 
ing the  former  existence  of  baths  and  a 
temple  of  Apollo.  But  such  is  the  fate 
of  this  city,  that,  although  the  Moors 
ruled  over  it  for  five  centuries,  nothing 
remains  of  their  mosques,  walls,  etc. 
It  was  the  key  of  the  kingdom  of  Gra- 
nada on  the  N.  side.  St.  Ferdinand, 
after  three  sieges,  became  possessed  of 
it,  and  pulled  down  the  great  mosque 
to  build  a  church,  and  Juan  II.  gave  up 
the  Moorish  palace  to  some  monks. 
Towards  the  end  of  the  15th  century, 
the  ballad  hero,  'El  Moro  Reduan,' 
offered  Boabdil  to  undertake  the  recap- 
ture of  Jaen,  and  consented,  wero  he  to 


M 


162 


GRANADA — ROUTES. 


fail,  to  be  exiled  from  Granada.  The 
ballad  on  that  subject  and  wager,  in  G. 
Porez  de  Hita's  'Guerras  Civiles  de 
Granada,'  is  graphic,  and  savours  of 
those  chivalrous  times,  deeds,  and  men. 
'  Reduan,  bien  te  acuerdas. — Que  me 
diste  la  palabra, — que  me  darias  a  Jaen. 
En  una  noche  ganada.'  And  one  can 
actually  watch  Boabdil  riding  slowly 
out  of  the  gate  of  Elvira,  amid  his 
numerous  followers,  gaily  attired,  *  En 
medio  de  todos  ellos — va  el  Rey  Chico 
de  Granada  mirando  las  damas  moras 
de  las  Torres  del  Alhambra.' 

The  city  rises  on  the  slopes  of  a  cerro 
crowned  by  ruins  of  a  castle.  It  is 
washed  on  the  E.  by  the  Guadalbullon, 
and  stands  amid  gardens  full  of  fruit 
and  vegetables,  with  a  few  palms  here 
and  there.  The  city  walls  are  fast 
crumbling  down.  There  are  some  curi- 
ous gates,  especially  the  ogival  Portillo 
del  Arroyo  de  San  Pedro,  the  horseshoe 
Puerta  de  Martos,  etc.  The  fortified 
line  of  walls  extended  from  the  castle 
towards  the  S.  by  Puerta  de  Granada, 
of  which  last  but  little  remains  ;  then 
went  by  El  Portillo  los  Adarves,  Puerta 
Barreros,  and  back  again  by  Puerta  de 
Martos,  to  castle,  which  was  defended 
from  E.  to  S.  by  precipitous  hills.  The 
castle  is  indifferent ;  the  Torre  del  Ho- 
menage  contains  a  few  rooms,  some  with 
Gothic  ceilings  and  agimeces.  Close 
by  is  the  Moro-Gothic  Ermita  of  Sta. 
Catalina,  built  by  St  Ferdinand.  The 
streets  are  narrow  and  winding,  the 
walls  and  houses  whitewashed,  the  iron- 
wrought  balconies  clothed  with  vine  and 
ivy,  at  the  corners  of  which  are  placed 
the  Moorish  fashioned  jarras  de  Andu- 
jar.  There  are  cool  courts  inside,  with 
fountains  and  plants.  In  the  streets 
the  traveller  will  notice  that  silence  and 
solitude  of  all  Oriental  populations,  that 
fly  from  the  heat,  have  nothing  to  do, 
and  doze  away  life  in  a  cool  corner. 
The  Alameda  forms  a  charming  prome- 


nade, from  which  there  are  picturesque 
views.  There  are  an  indifferent  theatre 
and  a  bull-ring  for  8000  spectators. 

The  Cathedral  dates  1532,  and  is  one 
of  the  first  churches  built  in  Spain  after 
the  Greco-Roman  style.  1 1  is  the  work 
of  Pedro  Valdelvira,  who  erected  it  on 
the  ruins  of  a  former  church  built  by 
St  Ferdinand  on  the  site  of  the  great 
mosque.  It  is  a  noble  structure,  very 
pure  in  its  design  and  details.  Some 
of  the  latter,  however,  Mr.  Fergusson 
(H.  Modern  Styles)  considers  to  possess 
an  unmistakable  Gothic  character, 
especially  the  imposts  and  clustered 
shafts.  There  are  four  entrances.  The 
principal  one,  W.,  stands  between  two 
massive  towers  with  cupolas,  only  effect- 
ive from  a  distance.  The  interior  is 
noble,  and  composed  of  three  naves,  but 
sadly  defaced  by  whitewash,  colour,  too 
profuse  ornaments,  foliage,  arabesques, 
and  the  like.  The  doors  in  the  transept 
leading  to  the  sacristy,  etc. ,  are  finely 
decorated,  formed  of  circular  arches 
with  Corinthian  pillars,  statues,  and  re- 
lievos representing  scenes  from  the  life 
of  Christ.  The  Choir  is  most  indifferent. 
The  Trascoro  is  richly  ornamented  with 
marbles  found  in  the  province,  and  in 
the  retablo  is  a  poor  Holy  Family  by 
Maella.  On  the  left  on  entering,  in  a 
chapel  just  below  the  tower,  is  kept  an 
image  of  the  Virgin,  which  Cip.  Zufiiga 
used  to  carry  on  his  standard  in  time  of 
war.  It  is  very  old,  but  ill  repaired. 
In  the  high  chapel  is  kept  the  relic,  of 
which  the  inhabitants  of  Jaen  are  very 
proud,  though  similar  relics  may  be 
found  at  Alicante,  Chapel  of  P.  Pio  at 
Madrid,  etc.,  without  counting  the  au- 
thentic ones  at  Rome,  Lucca,  Germany, 
etc.  It  is  called  El  Santo  Rostro,  the 
Holy  Face  of  Christ,  as  impressed  on 
the  handkerchief  of  Santa  Veronica, 
who  lent  it  to  wipe  the  sweat  from  the 
Saviour's  face  on  His  road  to  Calvary. 
This  is  said,  by  the  best  authorities,  to  T>e 


GRANADA — ROUTES. 


163 


merely  a  copy  of  the  one  at  Rome,  and 
it  is  a  very  indifferent  painting. 

There  is  a  fine  portal,  by  Valdelvira, 
at  Church  of  San  Miguel,  a  very  old 
Gothic  Church  of  San  Juan.  There  are 
a  few  specimens  of  civil  private  archi- 
tecture of  16  th  century.  See  house  of 
Conde  de  Villar,  the  portal  of  which  is 
a  medley  of  the  Moorish,  ogival,  and 
Roman  styles,  but  of  good  and  novel 
effect ;  the  plateresque  facade  of  the 
house  of  Bishop  La  Faente  del  Sauce, 
and  those  of  Vilches,  Quesada  Ulloa, 
and  the  Graeco-Roman  Casa  de  los  Ma- 
sones.  On  leaving  Jaen,  the  road  be- 
comes wilder,  mountainous,  and  a  tunnel 
33  yards  long,  the  Puerta'  de  Arenas, 
runs  through  a  gorge.  The  bridge  of 
Beiro  -is  crossed,  and  Granada  is 
reached. 

If  the  rail  be  taken  from  Espeluy  to 
Granada  vid  Jaen  and  Puente  Genii, 
special  note  should  be  made  of  the  fine 
scenery  about  Martos,  with  the  pre- 
cipitous Peflon  de  los  Carvajales.  For 
Baena,  Cabra,  Lucena,  on  this  line, 
see  p.  168. 

i.  From  Gibraltar.  By  boat  to  Algeciras 
and  rail  vid  Ronda  and  Bobadilla  (change), 
two  trains  daily ;  or  (2)  riding, -as  this  is  one  of 
the  most  picturesque  and  beautiful  rides  in 
Spain,  and  the  scenery  is  wild  and  very  grand, 
especially  about  Antequera  and  Ronda.  The 
usual  way  is  by  San  Roque,  Gaucin,  13  leagues ; 
but  there  is  a  short  cut  by  the  Angostura  de 
Cortes,  which  we  recommend,  and  which  saves 
two  long  leagues,  and  is  more  picturesque  and 
interesting.  The  whole  ride  may  be  performed 
in  three  days  and  a  half;  but  four  good  days 
are  required  to  get  over  the  ground  with  comfort, 
especially  if  there  are  ladies  in  the  party. 

Itinerary,  from  Gibraltar  to  Granada. 

(By  San  Roque.)  Leagues. 

San  Roque  to  La  Venta  de  la  Loja  .        .      \ 
Venta  de  Aguadelquehizo  (Longstables)  .      1 

Bocaleones \ 

Ventorillo  del  Cagajon  1 

Barca  de  Cuenca z 

Venta  de  Mollano  or  Moyano  ...      2 
<    Bait  horses. 

Barca  de  Cortes 2 

Hermita  de  la  Salud  1 


Leagues 

Cueva  del  Gato 1 

Ronda       .  1 

Alora,  a  railway  station  of  line,  Malaga 
to  Cordova,  lies  about  10  leagues  from 
Ronda.  — 

In  one  day,  rising  early.  1 1 


z 
2 
z 
z 
I 


Barranco  Hondo 
Cuevas  del  Becerro 
Venta  del  Ciego 
Venta  de  Teba 
Campillos  . 

Sleep  either  here  or  at  the  following,  8 
to  9  hrs. 

Antequera 5 

Archidona          .                 .  .2! 

Venta  de  Riofrio       ....  (l°ng)  * 
Loja .1 

Sleep  here,  and  next  day  early  to  Granada. 

Venta  del  Pulgar \\ 

Venta  Nueva     ...         .        .        .       z 

Venta  de  Cacin  ...  (short)  z 

Lachar (long)  2} 

Santa  Fe*  . 
Granada    . 


2 
2 


26} 

The  road  crosses  the  Monte  de  Castillar  and 
its  cork-wood,  at  the  end  of  which  is  the  Paso 
de  Boca  Leones,  the  former  focus  of  Andalusian 
bandidos,  and  the  scene  of  their  celebrated  chief 
Jose*  Maria's  exploits.  The  scenery  now,  as  far 
as  Ronda,  is  almost  unrivalled,  and  travellers 
have  to  wind  their  way  along  precipices,  and 
across  small  rivers,  which  are  passed  on  ferries 
(barcas).  Those  going  by  Gaucin  and  Atajate 
sleep  at  the  former,  and  get  next  day  early  to 
Ronda,  between  2  and  3  p.m.,  starting  at 
6  to  6.30  a.m.  Gaucin. — Inn  :  Posada  In- 
glesa,  clean  and  decent  There  are  some  clean 
and  quiet  Casas  de  Pupilos  on  the  Mercadillo, 
close  to  the  bull-ring.  The  view  from  the 
ruined  castle,  the  situation  of  the  village,  are 
well  worthy  of  a  visit  when  there  is  time  to 
spare.  By  leaving  Gibraltar  at  7  a.m.  you 
can  easily  get  in  to  Gaucin  at  5  p.m.  ;  but  the 
road  avoiding  Gaucin  is  far  easier  and  more 
picturesque.  By  coming  from  Ronda  to  Gib- 
raltar, you  may  avoid  two  leagues'  uninteresting 
road  by  striking  off  to  the  left,  close  to  the 
cork-wood. 

Honda. — 25,000  inhab.  Hotel  Gibraltar  ; 
Hotel  America,  indifferent;  prices  from  8  pes. 
Fonda  Rondena.  Casino  and  Bull-ring  here. 
Good  place  for  Andalusian  costumes  and 
for  fruit.  Capital  of  the  Jerrania.  Ronda 
is   uniquely  situated   on    a  very  high    rock, 


164 


GRANADA — ROUTES. 


cleft  in  twain  by  volcanic  action,  and  between 
whose  precipitous  sides  or  walls  flows  the 
boiling  Guadiaro,  which  girts  the  city,  and 
taxes  here  the  name  of  Guadalvin,  and  divides 
the  new  city  (Ronda  la  Nueva)  from  the  older 
(Ronda  la  Vieja).  The  country  round,  on 
approaching  this  town,  is  quite  charming. 
Valleys  green  and  fresh.  On  the  left,  hills 
covered  with  the  olive,  the  vine;  and  on  the 
right,  well-cultivated  fields,  bursting  with 
fecundity  and  studded  with  pretty  flat-roofed 
Oriental  white  cottages  glittering  in  the  sun, 
and  the  Sierra  itself  rising  before  one,  with  its 
warm,  deep  rich  tints,  and  effective  grouping, 
and  bold  outlines  greet  the  tourist. 

The  market-place  overhangs  the  Tajo,  or 
Chasm,  and  should  be  visited,  as  exhibiting  all 
the  varieties  of  delicious  fruit  for  which  the 
neighbouring  orchards  of  Ronda  are  far  famed 
throughout  Andalusia.  Close  by  is  the  fine 
renaissance  Casa  de  Mondragon  (see  vista  into 
the  Tajo,  from  balcony,  fee  50  c.)  with  double 
courtyard,  etc.  The  Alameda  commands  an 
unrivalled  view  of  the  mountains,  crowned  by 
the  lofty  Cristobal. 

The  main  curiosity  and  the  lion  of  Ronda  is 
the  Chasm,  or  Tajo.  The  bridge  thrown 
across  was  built  in  1761,  by  Jose"  M.  Aldeguela, 
and  is  276  ft.  (Spanish)  above  the  waters  of  the 
river:  the  only  arch  it  consists  of  is  no  ft. 
diameter  or  span,  and  is  supported  by  two 
pillars  17  ft.  deep.  The  view,  looking  down 
from  the  bridge,  and  that  also  looking  up  to 
this  grand  and  wild  cascade  of  liquid  silvei 
from  the  lowest  mill,  are  not  to  be  equalled, 
and  we  do  not  even  attempt  to  describe  the 
effect,  for  it  baffles  pen  and  pencil.  The  other 
and  older  bridge  is  120  ft.  high.  Visit,  besides, 
the  Dominican  Convent;  a  Moorish  tower  in 
Calle  del  Puente  Viejo;  the  Casa  del  Rey 
Moro,  built  104a  by  Al.  Motadhed  ;  the  '  Mina 
de  Ronda,'  which  is  a  staircase  of  400  steps,  cut 
out  in  the  rock  by  order  of  Ali  Abu  Melee,  in 
134a,  who  employed  Christian  slaves.  The 
handsome  bull-ring  is  built  of  stone.  The  bull- 
fights here  are  certainly  the  best  in  Spain  for 
true  cnuUur  locale,  costumes,  and  aficionados, 
as  the  Ronda  population  is  composed  of  hardy 
and  bold  mountaineers,  bandidos  retired  from 
business,  smugglers  (that  polite  name  for  the 
former  occupation  or  trade),  and  bull-fighting 
and  horse -dealing  are  their  passion  and 
favourite  occupation.  There  is  a  celebrated 
fair  held  every  year  (20th  May),  when  the 
majeza,  bull-fighters,  the  small  swift  horses, 
the  ruddy-cheeked  pretty  women,  are  seen  in 
all  their  force,  bloom,  and  beauty.  It  is  a 
capital  time  and  place  for  acquisitions  of 
mantas,  embroidered  gahers  and  garters,  etc. 

Excursions,   not  very  interesting,    may  be 
made  to  Cueva  del  Gato  (two  leagues  N.W.), 


I  which  is  full  of  stalactical  caverns,  and  to  the 
ruins  of  Ronda  la  Vieja.  Ronda  is  recom- 
mended to  tourists  in  the  S.  of  Spain,  who  may 
,  seek  a  cool  summer  residence.  The  new  line 
from  Bobadilla  to  Algeciras  renders  it  easy  of 
access  to  all,  whether  coming  from  Gibraltar  or 
the  north. 

Next  day  the  mid-day  halt  had  better  be  at 
Vento  del  Ciego.  Leaving  Teba  on  the  right, 
which  is  only  interesting  as  being  the  title  worn 
by  the  Empress  Eugenie,  who  is  Countess  of 
Teba  in  her  own  right,  Campillos  may  be 
reached  from  7  to  9  hrs.  after  leaving  Ronda. 
Inns :  La  Corona,  Jesus  Nazareno,  etc.  Two 
leagues  from  this  village  is  the  Salina,  or  Salt 
Lake. 

Antequera.— Pop.  27,340.  Inn:  Posada  de 
la  Castafla.  The  Anticaria  of  the  Romans, 
is  placed  on  a  height,  and  was  a  strong- 
hold of  the  Roman  and  the  Moor.  Of  the 
ancient  town — Antequera  la  Vieja — there  are 
but  very  few  vestiges,  such  as  some  vague 
traces  of  a  theatre  and  a  palace,  removed  in 
Z585  and  embedded  in  the  walls  close  to  the 
Arco  de  los  Gigantes.  There  is  little  to  see 
here.  Tourists  who  have  time  to  spare  may 
ascend  to  the  castle,  built  by  the  Romans  and 
considerably  enlarged  by  the  Moors,  from 
whom  the  city  was  recovered  by  the  Regent 
Fernando,  hence  called  '  El  Infante  de  Ante- 
quera,' in  141a  Visit  here  some  Roman  re- 
mains at  the  entrance  ;  the  Barbican  and 
Torre -macha  are  curious.  The  Colegiata  of 
Sta.  Maria  is  indifferent,  both  outside  and  in- 
side. 

Here  there  is  rail  to  Granada,  two  trains 
per  day,  in  about  4  hrs. ;  dil.  to  Malaga  (9 
leagues)  by  the  Boca  del  Asno  and  Venta  de 
Galvez,  etc.,  and  rail  to  Malaga  via  Bobadilla 
junction,  in  about  5  hrs. 

The  'Cueva  del  Menzal '  outside  the  town, 
as  we  continue  our  way  to  Granada,  may  be 
examined  by  antiquarians.  It  is  one  of  the  few 
monuments  found  in  Spain  of  the  Celtic  period 
or  Druidical  times.  It  is  70  ft.  deep.  It  was, 
so  to  say,  discovered  and  cleared  away  by  a 
Malaga  architect,  Sefior  Mitjana,  in  1842,  who 
has  written  a  description  of  it  (8vo  ;  Malaga, 
1847). 

A  short  way  out,  upon  the  Malaga  road,  is 
El  Torcal,  a  fantastic  group  of  stones  resem- 
bling the  Enchanted  City  near  Cuenca. 

For  the  rest  of  route  to  Granada,  see  Malaga 
to  Granada. 

From  Malaga  by  raiL— Two  trains 
per  day  in  about  8J  hrs.    By  the  C6r- 
doba  line  as  far  as  Boba- 
dilla.    (Fair  buffet,  half  an 
our's  stay.)     Change  here 


GRANADA — ROUTES. 


165 


for  Granada,  vid  Antequera  and  Loja. 
See  for  Antequera,  Gib.  to  Granada,  p. 
164.     On  leaving  that  city  the  lofty 
range  of  the  Torcales  hills  is  left  on  our 
right.     The  train  passes  close  to  an 
immense    rock    called,    romantically, 
'  La  Peiia  de  los  Enamorados ' — Lovers' 
Rock.    Two  lovers,  it  is  said,  a  Moorish 
girl  and  a  Spanish  knight,  being  pur- 
sued by  the  former's  father's  attend- 
ants, fled  for  refuge  hither,  and  next 
day  threw  themselves  from  the  rock, 
clasped  in  each  other's  arms.     Archi- 
dona,    an  ancient   but   uninteresting 
town.     All  these  places,  and  the  towns 
between  here  and  the  coast — Alhama, 
Velez-Malaga,   etc.  — suffered  greatly 
from  the  earthquakes  of  1884-85. 

Lqja.—  Pop.  17,128.  Fonda  de  los 
Angeles.  The  Roman  Lacivis,  and  Arab 
Lauxa,  once  very  prosperous,  and  a 
favourite  with  the  Moor,  is  a  sadly  de- 
cayed town.  It  is  placed  in  a  narrow 
valley  formed  by  the  Periquetes  hills  (a 
prolongation  of  the  Sierra  de  Ronda) 
and  the  Hacho,  with  the  Genii  waters 
running  through  it  and  below  the  city 
with  a  stupendous  noise.  The  Manza- 
nil,  which  rises  close  by,  forms  a  fine 
cascade  on  joining  the  Genii.  From 
the  fertility  attending  on  the  abundance 
of  waters,  everything  grows  here  in 
abundance.  The  mulberry  thrives  won- 
derfully, and  the  silk  produced  is  fine. 

Not  far  from  station  of  Tocon  lies  the 
historical  but  otherwise  unimportant 
city  of  Santa  F4.  This  town  was  built 
by  Queen  Isabella,  during  the  siege  of 
Granada,  in  1492,  to  shelter  her  army 
during  the  winter,  and  show  the  enemy 
how  very  firm  she  and  the  king  were  in 
their  purpose  to  capture  the  town,  the 
last  bulwark  of  the  Mpor.  It  was  de- 
signed after  the  general  outlines  and 
plan  of  Briviesca  (a  wretched  small  town 
of  Castile,  not  far  from  Burgos),  and 
Seville,  Cordova,  and  other  large  cities 
contributed  with   their  funds    to   the 


building  of  it,  which  was  concluded  in 
eighty  days.  Sta.  Fe  was  the  scene  oi 
many  important  political  acts,  such  as 
signing  the  capitulation  of  Granada,  etc. 
On  arriving  at  Granada  by  this  route, 
the  first  impression  will  be  almost  a 
disappointment.  The  Alhambra  is  seen 
rising  on  the  left. 

Riding    from    Malaga,    by   Alhama;    dis- 
y*        tance,  18  leagues ;  two  days,  sleep- 
JEig&  ing  at  Alhama.     Horses  may  be 
_Cf^H    readily  procured  at  Alameda ;  fares, 
JMttM»  4or.  a-day  per  horse,  stabling  in- 
cluded, and  4or.  to  guide,  and  about  iar.  to 
aor.  to  second  guide  with  the  pack-horse  (if 
the  party  be  numerous).     Useful  guides  and 
travelling  servants  may  be  obtained. 

Itinerary.  Leagues 

Malaga  to  Velez-Malaga  .  .    $\ 

La  Vinuela 
Venta  de  Juan  Alameda 

Zafarraya 2 

Venta  Cacin      ...  \\ 

From  latter  to  visit  Banos  de  Alhama  1 
From  Baths  to  town  of  Alhama       .      \ 
Ventas  de  Huelma   .        .-       .        .2 
La  Mala  (mineral  baths  and  salinas)    1 

Gavia  § 

Almilla } 

Granada    \ 

Two  dils.  leave  Malaga  daily  for  Velez- 
Malaga,  and  perform  the  jour- 
ney in  3^  hrs.  for  2sr.  Ladies 
and  not  over-strong  horsemen 
will  do  well  to  take  this  convey- 
ance thus  far ;  arrive  there  early,  see  the  town, 
and  sleep ;  have  the  horses  waiting  and  fresh, 
with  side-saddles,  or  side-chairs,  and  proceed 
thence  to  Alhama,  where  sleep.  Next  day  ar- 
rive at  Granada.  The  journey  thus  will  be 
rendered  less  fatiguing,  and  the  scenery  is  so 
beautiful  that  the  one  day  more  will  be  amply 
compensated.  The  inns  are  tolerably  good,  but 
travellers  should  attend  to  the  provender. 

For  riding  all  the  way  5  hrs.  are  necessary 
to  reach  Velez-Malaga,  where  breakfast  and 
bait  horses.  Seven  hours  {Jive  to  well-girt 
horseman)  are  required  between  Velez-Malaga 
and  Alhama  (where  sleep).  An  hour  and  a 
half  may  be  given  to  see"  the  baths  of  Alhama. 
Next  morning  leave  at  6  a.m.,  and  Granad*. 
may  be  reached  in  8  hrs.  Some  tourists  prefer 
to  sleep  at  Velez,  and  go  on  the-  remaining 
fourteen  hours  next  day. 


166 


GRANADA — ROUTES; 


Velez-Malaga.  —  Inn:  Fonda  de  Aguilar. 
15,000  inhab.,  2  kil.  from  the  sea,  and  at  the 
foot  of  a  hill  which  forms  part  of  the  S.  range 
of  the  Sierra  Tejada.  The  Rio  Velez  is  crossed 
on  entering  it  The  place  greatly  ruined  by 
the  earthquakes.  There  is  little  to  see,  except 
the  ruined  castle  with  its  solitary  small  tower. 
The  vegetation  around  Velez  is  most  luxuriant, 
owing  to  the  constant  moisture  and  African 
sun.  The  aloe,  palm,  sugar-cane,  prickly  pear, 
the  orange,  the  vine  and  oil,  indigo,  and  the 
celebrated  sweet  potato  (batata  de  Malaga),  grow 
here  without  almost  any  cultivation.  The  air  is 
salubrious,  and  the  climate  '  that  of  heaven,'  to 
use  an  Andalusian  hyperbole.  Velez  -Magala 
is  linked  in  Spanish  history  with  many  great 
events  in  Moorish  warfare  and  chivalrous 
legends.  The  town,  after  a  long  siege,  was 
taken  by  Ferdinand  the  Catholic,  who  killed  a 
Moor  with  his  own  hand.  Lovers  of  legends 
and  romantic  history  should  read  Washington 
Irving's  'Conquest  of  Granada;'  historical 
facts  may  be  gathered  from  Bernal's  '  Cura  de 
los  Palucios,'  '  Crimea  de  los  Reyes  Catolicos,' 
Vedmar's  '  Bosquejo  Apologe'tico,'  etc.  ;  Ma- 
laga, 164a  His  '  Historia  y  Grandezas,'  Gra- 
nada, 1652,  and  Rengifo's  'Grandezas/  a  MS. 
in  Marque's  de  la  Romana's  library,  may  be 
also  consulted. 


The  road  on  leaving  Velez  winds  up  along 
the  river,  and  through  verdant  valleys,  wild 
mountain  passes,  and  orange-groves.  To  the 
right  rise  the  mountains  of  Tejada,  the  arid 
slopes  and  heights  of  which  are  dotted  with 
villages.  Now  the  pass  called  Puerto  de 
Zafarraya  (Arabice,  the  field  of  the  shepherds) 
is  crossed.  The  snowy  Sierra  Nevada  soon 
after  breaks  upon  the  traveller,  shining  in  the 
distance  like  a  wall  of  silver.  The  road  be- 
comes dreary  and  monotonous ;  here  and  there 
the  eye  is  saddened  by  the  melancholy  sight  of 
heaps  of  stones,  with  the  small  rough  cross  well 
known  to  tourists  in  Spain,  as^  records  of 
murders  committed  there.  'Aqui  mataron,' 
etc.,  and  often  raised  by  the  penitent  murderers 
themselves. 

Alhanta. — Put  up  at  the  Bath  Hotel ;  much 
the  best.  Alhamain  Arabic  means  '  the  Baths,' 
whence  several  alhamas  or  mineral  springs 
bearing  the  same  name  in  Spain,  such  as 
Alhama  de  Aragon,  etc.  Alhama  stands  most 
picturesquely  on  the  edge  of  a  rent  in  the 
mountain.  The  streets  rise  like  so  many 
terraces,  one  above  another,  and  behind,  as  a 
background,  rises  the  Sierra  de  Alhama,  in 
which  the  Tejada  rises  8000  ft.  above  the  sea. 
It  is  seen  to  most  advantage  coming  from 
Granada.      The    Marchan    winds    round    the 


hills,  and  the  rocks  rise  almost  perpendicular!) 
from  its  bed,  forming  the  sides  of  the  gorge. 

Alhama  was  one  of  the  most  important  strong- 
holds of  the  Moor,  and  the  land-key  of  Granada. 
Its  importance  did  not  escape  either  the  Moor 
or  the  Christian,  and  it  was  the  scene  of  many 
sieges  and  gallant  deeds  towards  the  decline  of 
the  Mussulman's  rule  in  Spain,  and  ended  in  its 
capture  by  the  heroic  Marauis  of  Cadiz,  Feb- 
ruary 28, 1482.  The  ballad, '  Ay  de  mi  Alhama ! ' 
which  Lord  Byron  translated,  laments  the  loss 
of  this  city,  the  news  of  which,  says  the  ballad, 
the  King  of  Granada  would  not  believe  in,  and 

Las  cartas  echo"  en  el  fuego, 
V  al  mensagero  matava ; 

so  strong  and  impregnable  did  he  consider  it. 
The  baths  may  be  visited,  on  riding  by  next 
morning.  Observe  in  Alhama  (the  Roman 
Artigis  Juliensis),  remains  of  an  aqueduct  on 
the  Plaza,  with  circular  arches,  of  Roman, 
some  say  Moorish,  origin.  The  church  is  in- 
different Around  it  are  bits  of  fine  archi- 
tecture of  many  varieties  in  the  facades  of 
grandees'  houses,  now  decayed  and  tenantless. 
The  tajo,  or  chasm,  of  this  miniature  Ronda  is 
very  picturesque,  and  worthy  of  a  Turner. 
There  is  an  interesting  Passion  Play  performed 
here  annually,  in  April.  Alhama  may  be  easily 
reached  from  the  station  of  Cartama,  on  the 
Cordoba  line. 

The  Baths. — Probably  known  to  the  Romans, 
were  much  frequented  by  the  Moors,  whose 
favourite  bath,  '  El  Bano  Fuerte,'  is  well  pre- 
served. The  bath, '  de  la  Reyna,'  with  a  dome, 
is  probably  'a  Roman  construction.  The  sul- 
phurous spring  is  42°  to  43°  cent.,  and  strongly 
impregnated  with  nitrogen  gas,  and  is  beneficial 
for  dyspepsia  and  rheumatism.  The  visitors 
who  in  former  times  annually  flocked  hither,  as 
is  said,  to  the  number  of  14,000,  have  now 
dwindled  to  700  or  800.  The  accommodation 
is  tolerably  good.  The  road  becomes  dreary 
and  uninteresting,  and  the  miserable  Cacin, 
Venta  de  Huelma,  etc.,  are  passed.  Around 
La  Mala  are  several  important  salt-pits  (salinas). 
The  hills  separating  it  from  the  Vega  of  Granada 
are  composed  of  gypsum,  strongly  impregnated 
with  salt.  From  the  brow  of  the  hill  here 
before  us  we  obtain  our  first  view  of  Granada, 
and  the  verdant,  inexhaustibly  rich  vega  lies 
spread  before  us.  To  the  left  rise  hills  which, 
becoming  loftier,  break  into  the  cliffs  of  Alfacar. 
The  sight  is  truly  Alpine.  Descending  the  hill, 
Gavia  la  Grande  is  reached,  and  2  hrs.'  ride 
across  the  vega  brings  the  traveller  to  Granada, 
through  a  succession  of  corn-fields,  orchards, 
and  hemp  plantations,  etc. 

N.B. — There  is  a  coach  every  other  day  fron 
Alhama  to  Granada. 


GRANADA — ROUTES. 


167 


Motril  to  Granada.  —  Daily  coach.     Not  ■ 
to  be  recommended  save  for  economy.    Prefer-  ' 
ably     by    riding;     73    kiL,     13$ 
_Ja    Spanish  leagues.     The  portion  of 
£JMKL     road  as  far  as  Beznar  has  been  re- 
MmJBm  paired. 


Itinerary. 

Leagues. 

Motril  to  Velez  de  Bcnadulla  .  2 

Izbol         ....  a 

Beznar 2 

Talara  ...  z 

Padul 2 

Granada  .  .  3 

12 

The  journey  may  be  performed  in  one  long 
lay ;  if  not,  sleep  at  Beznar. 

The  road  is  interesting  on  account  of  the 
scenery.  Dil.  from  Beznar  to  Granada  and  to 
Lanjaron  ;  berlina,  4or.  ;  int.,  3CT.  ;  to  Granada 
in  about  4  hrs. 

Motril. — 17,000  inhab.  Inn:  La  Dorotea. 
In  a  valley  close  to  the  sea.  The  climate 
ot  this  valley  is  truly  delicious,  and  is  con- 
sidered as  the  most  salubrious  on  the  whole 
coast  of  Granada.  In  winter  the  thermometer 
never  falls  below  11"  cent.,  and  in  summer  rises 
very  seldom  above  24"  to  25*  cent  There  is 
nothing  to  see  at  Motril,  excepting  a  few  ves- 
tiges of  walls  and  an  indifferent  church.  Close 
to  the  city  is  a  small  bay,  El  Puerto  de  Motril, 
but  really  called  Calahonda.  A  small  village 
so  called  is  built  around  it,  and  inhabited  by 
poor  fishermen  and  sailors.  The  plains  around 
Motril  abound  with  oil,  vines,  sugar-cane, 
cotton,  Indian  corn,  etc.  There  is  a  bridle  road 
to  Malaga  by  Almunecar  and  Velez -Malaga 
(distance,  about  64  m.). 

Velez  de  Benadulla. — 3100  inhab.,  close  to 
Guadalfea,  a  Moorish  town  (Arabice,  '  the  Land 
of  the  Childern  of  Andalla').  It  is  also  called 
Velezillo.  The  castle  is  most  effective.  Close 
by  is  a  .mill,  with  some  colossal  olive  trees 
planted  by  the  Moors.  The  scene  is  most 
picturesque  and  romantic. 

Beznar  is  a  wretched  hamlet  composed  of 
crumbling  houses;  the  posada  is  said  to  be 
tolerable  Here  it  is  optional  to  take  the  road, 
either  by  Durcal  and  Padul  or  by  the  Pinos  del 
Rey.  The  latter  is  a  prettier  road,  but  longer 
by  4  leagues. 

Alhendin,  —  Close  to  this  otherwise  un- 
interesting hamlet,  is  one  of  the  low  hills  which 
form  the  boundary  on  this  side  of  the  Vega  de 
Granada,  and  is  celebrated  alike  in  history  and 
romance  by  the  melancholy  name  of  '  El  ultimo 
suspiro  del  Moro  *  (the  last  sigh  of  the  Moor). 
It  was  here  that  Boabdil  halted  after  leaving 


Granada  in  the  hands  of  the  Catholic  kings, 
and  was  seen  weeping  as  he  took  a  farewell 
glance.  His  mother,  theu  the  haughty  Aze- 
rhah,  rebuking  him,  said,  'Weep  not  as  a 
woman  for  the  loss  of  a  kingdom  which  you 
knew  not  how  to  defend  like  a  man.'  'Allah, 
achbar  1'  replied  the  fugitive  monarch,  'God  is 
great,  but  what  misfortunes  were  ever  to  be 
compared  to  mine?'  He  was  really  most 
appropriately  surnamed  '  El  Zogoibi,'  the  ill- 
starred,  for  the  lord  of  the  golden  Alhambra 
saw  his  children  at  Fez  begging  at  the  doors  of 
mosques  I 

6.  From  Murcia,  by  rail  and  coach. 
Rail  open  to  Baza.  Fine  coach  drive 
(9  a.m.  to  5  p.m.)  from  Guadix  to 
Granada.  This  route  is  long,  but 
worth  taking. 

7.  From    Cordova    by    road    (rail, 

see  p.  161).  A  very  interesting 
,.  riding-tour  may  be  made  from  Cor- 
&A  dova  to  Granada.  The  route  passes 
£$UkL  across  wild  romantic  districts,  mag- 
JbSLmb  nificent  mountain  scenery,  quite 
Alpine  in  character ;  the  climate  delicious,  and 
the  soil  teeming  with  fruit,  wine,  corn,  and  the 
olive.  The  posadas  are  bad,  and  one  must 
rough  it  No  important  towns  or  historical 
sites  of  importance  are  passed ;  but  there  are 
treasures  for  the  botanist,  mineralogist,  and 
lovers  of  the  picturesque.  The  journey  can  be 
performed  in  two  days,  if  in  summer :  but  dur- 
ing the  winter  three  are  necessary.  Sleep  at 
Baena,  and,  if  in  winter,  at  Alcala  la  Real,  22$ 
leagues. 

N.B. — From  Baena  there  is  a  short  cut  to 
Antequera,  12  leagues.  (See  description  given 
below,  and  Malaga  from  Cordova). 


Itinerary. 


Cordova  to  Sta.  Crucita 
Castro  del  Rio .... 
Baena       .        .        . 
(10  hrs.'  ride — long,  from  the 
many  hills). 
La  Rapita 
Alcala  la  Real  . 
Venta  de  Palancares 
Ventas  de  Puerto  Lope 
Pinos  Puente    . 
Granada   . 


Leagues. 
•     4 


2 


4 

2 
I 
3 
2 

3 
22$ 


From  Cordova  to  Castro  del  Rio  the  route  is 
monotonous,  but  the  cornfields  will  interest  the 
English  farmer ;  not  for  their  mode  of  cultiva- 
tion, but  for  the  produce,  which  in  quality  and 
quantity  is  perhaps  unrivalled  in  the  world. 


168 


GRANADA — ROUTES. 


The  only  river,  which  often  meets  the  tourist, 
is  the  poor  Guadahoz.  Castro  is  the  Castra 
Postumia  of  Caesar's  'Commentaries.'  In  the 
Town  Hall  is  to  be  seen  a  jasper  slab  of  the 
former  Temple  of  Augustus. 

Baena. — xx,ooo  inhab.  A  wretched  posada. 
The  castle  on  the  height  was  the  property  of  Gon- 
zala  de  Cordova,  'el  gran  capitan,'  as  the  Duke 
was  'el  gran  lor.'  It  is  situated  in  the  old  town 
above.  There  are  some  funereal  urns  found  in 
2833,  in  a  sepulchre  said  to  have  belonged  to 
the  Pompeya  family.  In  the  castle,  which,  with 
the  palacio,  belongs  to  the  Altamira  family, 
Pedro  el  Cruel,  having  invited  the  Moorish 
King  of  Granada  to  a  series  of  fetes,  traitorously 
murdered  him  with  all  his  followers.  Muley- 
Eahadaef,  another  King  of  Granada,  was  con- 
fined here  in  1483.  In  the  vicinity  grows  a  very 
pretty  yellow  orchis.  The  Marbella  produces 
a  tench  called  arriguela. 

Alcald  la  Real. — Seven  hrs.  hard  riding 
are  necessary  to  reach  Alcala  from  Baena, 
though  the  distance  is  short.  Inns  all  bad  ;  the 
best  is  San  Anton,  on  the  Alameda.  This 
Al-Kalat  (the  castle)  was  a  strongly  fortified 
city  in  the  hands  of  the  Moors,  and  was  taken 
in  1340  by  Alfonso  XI.,  whence  called  La  Real 
La  Mota.  el  Farol,  or  beacon -tower,  was 
erected  by  the  Conde  de  Tendilla  to  guide  the 
Christian  prisoners  who  might  escape  from  the 
Moors.  A  mountain  defile  to  the  left  leads  to 
Jaen.  Close  to  Illora,  which  is  left  to  the 
right,  on  a  hill,  the  Sierra  Nevada  is  first  seen, 
and  the  Vega  de  Granada  appears  after  passing 
the  Venta  del  Puerto.  It  was  on  the  bridge  of 
Pinos  that  Columbus,  having  been  discouraged 
in  his  offers  of  a  new  world,  was  proceeding  to 
England,  when  he  was  stopped  by  a  messenger 
sent  by  Isabela,  who  entreated  him  to  come 
back,  adding  that  she  would  favour  his  scheme. 
To  the  right  lies  Soto  de  Roma,  the  estate 
granted  by  Spain  to  the  Duke  of  Wellington, 
and  to  the  left  Sierra  Elvira. 

Branch   road  from  Baena  to  Granada 
by  Antequera,  12  leagues,  one  day's  ride. 

Itinerary  Leagues. 

Cabra 3 

Lucena     2 

Benameji 3 

Antequera        ....     4 


12 


Cabra,  9000  inhab.,  is  the  .rtSgabrum, 
Greek  Aizagros — from  cabra  montes  a  wild 
goat  or  chamois.  Its  sierra  is  celebrated  for 
the  production  of  valuable  medicinal  plants, 
and  some  that  will  be  new  to  the  botanist ;  also 
for  its  marbles,  jasper,  and  alabaster.    The 


Sima  (cavern)  into  which  the  '  Don  Quixotic1 
hero,  CabalUro  del  Bosque,  leapt,  is  close  by. 
It  is  about  140  yards  long  and  was  examined  is 
1841,  when  nothing  was  found  but  frogs. 
Sights. — The  Plaza  de  Armas  is  worthy  of  a 
visit  The  tower  of  Homenage  was  built  in 
the  14th  century.  In  the  Church  de  las  Ascen- 
sion (formerly  a  mosque)  are  some  curious 
pasos.  Ask  for  the  Virgen  de  la  Soledad,  by 
Juan  de  Mena,  and  a  Saviour  in  silver.  The 
extinct  crater  of  Los  Hoyones  and  the  Cueva 
de"  Jarcas  will  interest  geologists.  The  fruit 
grown  in  the  neighbouring  orchards  is  deli- 
cious, and  the  wine  from  the  Pago  de  Rio  Fric 
is  excellent 

Lucena. — 17,000  inhab.  This,  the  Roman 
Egitera,  was  granted  with  the  former  city  by 
Alfonso  XI.  to  his  '  arnica.'  The  ogival  church 
of  San  Mateo  (1498),  the  house  of  the  Medina- 
celis,  are  worthy  of  notice.  It  is  surrounded 
by  fields  and  orchards  teeming  with  fruit  (taste 
the  apricots),  corn,  etc.,  and  sheltered  from  the 
N.  wind  by  the  beautiful  Sierra  of  Araceli. 
Not  far  is  Benameji,  with  a  fine  bridge  built 
X556  by  the  Mariscal  Diego  de  Bernin  Orense. 
The  rest  of  the  route  is  most  uninteresting. 

8.  From  Seville, — By  rail  vid  Utrera, 
Marcbena,  Osuna  and  Bobadilla ;  the 
most  direct  route.  One  train  per  day 
in  a  little  over  8  hrs.  First-class 
passengers  go  through  without  change. 
Half  an  hour's  stay  at  Bobadilla,  where 
fair  buffet.  Or — if  that  portion  of 
Andalucia  has  not  yet  been  visited — 
by  rail  vid  C6rdoba  and  Montilla.  {See 
C6rdoba.)  Or,  lastly,  in  the  old-fash- 
ioned way,  on  horseback,  in  four  days, 
across  wild  scenery  and  by  poor  roads. 
Fair  stopping  places  en  route,  the  road 
following  the  railway  most  of  the  way. 

Itinerary  Leagues. 

Seville  to  Alcate  de  Guadaira  .    2 
Mairena    . 

•     5 


Marchena . 

Osuna 

Pedrera 

La  Roda  . 

Moliina     . 

Antequera 

Ventas  de  Archidona 

Loja 

Lachar 

Santa  F£  . 

Granada   . 


0 

3 

2 

9 
3 


4 

2 


36 


GRANADA — ROUTES. 


169 


[If  time  allows,  a  visit  to  Ecija  may 
be  conveniently  made  in  passing  from 
Sovilla  to  Granada,  either  by  road  or 
rail.  There  is  a  branch  line  from 
Marchena,  44  kil.,  one  train  per  day, 
both  ways,  in  1J  hrs.  There  is  also  an 
excellent  road  from  Carmona.  Inn: 
Parador  de  las  Diligencias.  Pop. 
25,000.  This  city  was  once  the  rival 
of  Sevilla  and  Cordoba,  but  has  long 
lost  all  importance.  It  is  well  built, 
however,  and  clean,  with  a  couple  of 
pretty  alamedas,  one  or  two  interesting 
churches,  and  one  of  the  finest  bull- 
rings in  Spain.] 

Description  of  Route.  —  Leave  Seville  by 
I'uerta  de  Carmona.  Follow  the  aqueduct, 
A  Uald  de  Guadaira,  also  called  de  los  Pana- 
deros,  because  all  Seville  provides  itself  with 
the  bread  made  here ;  7000  inhab.,  on  right 
bank  of  the  Guadaira.  It  was  rebuilt  by  the 
Almahade  Moors.  The  towers  of  its  castle  are 
a  very  interesting  specimen  of  Moorish  military 
architecture.  It  was  the  land-key  of  Seville, 
and  surrendered  to  St  Ferdinand  on  Sept  21, 
1246,  when  its  Moorish  garrison,  composed  of  the 
King  of  Jean's  troops,  traitorously  turned 
against  their  own  race  within  the  city.  There 
is  little  to  see,  beyond  the  church  of  San  Sebas- 
tiali,  for  the  sake  of  the  pictures  by  Pacheco, 
Velasquez's  father-in-law  ;  that  of  Santiago  pos- 
sesses a  fino  Purgatorio  painted  by  the  same, 
and  the  convent  of  Sta.  Clara  contains  a  good 
retablo  and  six  small  bassi-relievi  by  Montanes. 
Alcala  de  Guadaira  (in  Arab,  the  castle  of  the 
river  Aira),  supplies  Seville  with  bread,  most 
delicious,  wholesome,  and  well-baked,  and  with 
water,  for  which  the  hill  has  been  perforated 
with  tunnels  some  2  leagues  long.  The  works 
are  Roman  and  Moorish ;  the  aqueduct  called 
Canos  de  Carmona  is  carried  on  400  arches. 
The  valley  of  the  Guadaira  is  pleasant,  the 
climate  soft  and  delicious,  and  so  salubrious  that 
convalescents  are  often  sent  thither  para  tomar 
los  aires.  A  little  to  the  N.E.  of  Alcala  is 
Gaundul,  with  its  picturesque  Moorish  castle, 
amid  palms  and  orange  groves.  We  pass 
Mairena,  where  iheferia  takes  place  every 
year  on  April  25th,  26th,  and  27th,  when  it  is 
ihe    rendezvous  of  Chalanes   (horse-dealers), 


gitanos,  and  majos ;  the  Carmona  road  is  left 
on  the  left,  and  Marchena  is  reached. 

Marchena  was  the  seat  of  the  powerful  house 
of  Arcos  (better  known  to  the  Spanish  reader 
as  Ponce  de  Leon).  There  are  still  a  few  cubos 
and  turrets,  only  remains  of  the  former  formid- 
able fortifications  of  the  Moors.  The  palacio 
of  the  Dukes  of  Arcos  is  sadly  neglected.  Ob- 
serve its  fine  facade  of  the  15th  century,  with 
its  richly  ornamented  square  portal,  and  its 
escutcheon  with  the  two  Herculeses  and  lion. 
There  are  some  rooms  with  fine  artesonado 
ceilings,  a  shady  garden  with  fountains  and 
ponds,  etc.  The  Church  of  Sta.  Maria,  which 
is  opposite,  is  Gothic ;  it  has  three  naves :  the 
interior  indifferent,  and  the  boveda  ill  painted. 
The  principal  facade  and  lateral  one  on  the  left 
of  San  Juan  looks  most  Oriental  with  its  azu- 
lejos,  alminares,  etc.  The  interior  is  divided 
into  five  naves ;  the  high  altar  dates  of  decline 
of  Gothic,  but  is  most  effective ;  the  pictures 
are  of  no  merit.  There  is  a  fine  custodia  (1586) 
by  Francisco  Alfaro.  The  dress  of  the  women 
is  curious. 

Osuna. — 17,000  inhab.  Inns:  Del  Caballo 
Blanco  and  Del  Rosario.  The  seat  of  one  of 
the  most  noble  houses  in  Europe,  la  case  do 
Giron,  of  which  the  Duke  of  Osuna  is  the  head. 
This,  the  Roman  Gemina  Urbanorum,  was 
taken  from  the  Moors  in  1240,  and  given  by 
Philip  II.  to  Don  Pedro  Tellez  Giron,  and  it 
became  the  appanage  of  his  family.  The  Col- 
legiate Church  was  built  in  1534,  by  a  Giron, 
who  also  founded  (1549)  the  University.  The 
former  charming  terra  cotta  relievos  on  its  W. 
facade  were  destroyed  by  Souk's  soldiers,  great 
iconoclasts  in  their  way.  In  the  retablo  are 
four  pictures  of  Ribera.  See  the  patio  del  Se- 
pulcro,  berruguete-like,  and  a  very  fine  Christ 
of  Morales,  retouched,  in  the  sacristy.  The 
Pantheon  or  burial-house  of  the  Girones,  some- 
what neglected.  Flower  amateurs  will  do  well 
to  look  at  the  splendid  carnation  pinks  here, 
called  claveles. 

Roda. — A  decent  posada.  The  country  be- 
tween Pedrera  and  Venta  de  Archidona  was 
the  scene  of  Jose*  Maria's  fetes. 

The  roads  here  are  bad,  but  the  scenery 
about  Antequera,  Archidona  and  Loja  is  very 
interesting.  (See  route  from  Gibraltar  to 
Granada.)  The  Venta  de  Archidona,  Cortijo 
de  Cerezal,  and  Venta  de  Cobalea  were  Jose* 
Maria's  favourite  haunts,  and  are  far-famed 
in  bandido  annals.  Perfect  security,  how 
ever,  exists. 


N.B. — Railway  opened  from  Seville  to  Alcala  and  Carmou*- 


GRANADA. 

GRANADA. 


'  &  N.  Lai.  . 


Hotala. — The  Washington  Irving 
and  the  Side  Suelos  (same  proprietor) 
upon  the  Alhambra  hill,  half  an  hour's 
drive  from  the  station  (omnibus  to 
meet  all  trains).  Both  are  good  ;  but 
the  "Washington  Irving  is  the  better 
house.  English  Church  service  in 
the  spring  and  earl;  summer.  Good 
guides.  Pensionfroml24pes. upwards. 
Here,  as  elsewhere,  a  bargain  should 
be  made  in  advance,  to  avoid  mis- 
understandings. Registered  luggage 
cleared  by  hotel  porter  at  small  extra 
charge. 

In  the  town  are  (1)  the  Hotel  de  la 
Alameda,  well  situated,  close  to  the 
Alameda  and  Carrera  de  Genii ;  good 
accommodation,  fair  cuisine,  good 
exposure  for  winter ;  small  and  large 
apartments  ;  prices  from  8  pesetas  up- 
wards. Fireplaces  in  most  rooms. 
Fine  views  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and 
convenient  for  the  town.  Comfortable 
and  reasonable,  if  economy  be  an 
object,  for  a  short  stay  in  Granada, 
and  if  the  Alhambra  hill  be  an  objec- 
tion. (2)  De  la  Victoria,  in  a  square 
close  to  Carrera  de  Genii ;  good  ex- 
posure for  summer,  cold   in   winter, 


central  situation.     Charges   same  as 
iu  the  previous. 

Lodgings ;  Somas  to  Aire.— Clean  and 
comfortable  rooms  are  to  be  had  in  the 
house  of  Manuel  Carmona,32  Alhambra. 
A  large  house  and  good  garden.  There 
are  also  several  fair  eases  de  hnespedes 
in  the  town :  prices  from  6  pesetas. 
There  are  several  fine  large  houses  to  let 
belonging  to  thenobility;  but  we  advise 
our  readers  most  strongly,  if  they  should 
intend  making  any  sojourn,  to  take  a 
villa  near  the  Alhambra.  Villas  here 
are  called  cdrmenes  (carmen,  singular), 
from  harm,  Arabic^  a  vineyard.  The 
cieerones  usually  know  of  those  unoc- 
cupied, although  it  must  be  borne  in 
mind  that  they  are  in  the  interest  of 
the  hotels.  They  are  often  let  unfur- 
nished, but  hiring  furniture  is  cheap 
and  easy  ;  besides,  little  is  required  in 
such  a  climate  as  this.  We  can  recom- 
mend a  carmen  called  de  Camara  or  de 
San  Antonio,  close  to  the  Torres  Ber- 
niejas,  where  several  F.uglish  families 
have  lived.  The  house  is  small  but 
comfortable;  there  are  portions  orna- 
mented in  the  style  of  the  Alhambra. 
It  was  here   Lady  Louisa  Tenison  re- 


GtlANADA. 


171 


sided  for  a  long  time  ;  she  mentions  it 
in  her  'Castile  and  Andalucia,'  and 
says :  '  A  more  charming  place  than 
this  for  a  summer  residence  it  would 
be  difficult  to  select ;  and  its  vicinity 
to  the  Alhambra  enabled  us  to  enjoy 
the  latter  without  the  fatigue  of  as- 
cending to  it  from  the  town.'  This 
carmen  for  sale  only,  not  to  be  hired 
[1895]. 

Cafes.—  El  Colon;  El  Suizo,  the 
best ;  Del  Pasaje  in  the  Zacatin  ;  Del 
Callejon  in  the  Calle  de  los  Mesones. 

Bankers. — Hijos  de  Agrela,  Calle  de 
los  Frailes  ;  Enrique  Santos. 

Casino. — On  the  Carrera  del  Genii. 
Admission  upon  introduction  by  a 
member. 

Carriages  stand  at  the  Carrera  and 
Plaza  del  Carmen — tariff,  the  course, 
6r. ;  to  any  part  of  town,  12r. ,  except 
to  Alhambra  and  Generalife,  to  which 
lOr.  extra ;  to  Albaicin  or  Monte  Santo 
20r.  ex. 

Curiosity  Shops.  —  Several  good  ; 
Michaela's  the  best.  Moorish  scarfs 
and.  cloaks  at  Ribot's,  4  Calle  de- 
Zacatin. 

Theatres. — El  Principal,  Plaza  de 
Campillo  ;  De  Isabel  la  Catolica,  Plaza 
de  los  Campos. 

Post  Office. —  Calle  Mendez  Nunez, 
44.  Mail  comes  in  at  night  and  is 
delivered  on  the  Alhambra  hill  next 
morning.  Five  days'  post  to  London. 
Telegraph  Office, — Plaza  de  la  Mariana,  9. 

English  Vice-Consul. — Charles  E.  S. 
Davenhill,  Esq.,  Buena  Vista  de  los 
Martires,  Alhambra. 

General  Description.  —  Granada, 
like  Toledo,  Burgos,  Oviedo,  and  most 
Spanish  towns,  is  now  but  a  dull,  un- 
social, depopulated  and  inert  provin- 
cial capital.  There  is  about  it,  not- 
withstanding its  sun  and  sky,  an  air  of 
stillness  and  decay,  a  mournful  silence, 
bo  peculiarly  noticeable  that  the  mind 
is  filled  with  sad  reveries,  and  almost 
led  to  sigh  forth  regret  for  the  departed 


Goth  or  Moor,  who  left  no  heirs  oi 
their  greatness  behind  them.  Indeed, 
the  whole  of  Spain  is  now  but  a  vast 
cemetery,  wherein  the '  disjecta  membra* 
of  the  dead  past  lie  buried  in  cities 
which  are  like  so  many  tombs.  Gra- 
nada is  thus  truly  a  living  ruin,  but  as 
the  widowed  capital  of  the  Moor  full 
of  interest.  It  carries  us  back  from  the 
present  to  the  age  of  Ibn-1-Ahmar  and 
of  Yusuf,  to  the  voluptuous  magnifi- 
cence of  their  eastern  palaces. 

This  city  stands  on  four  hills,  which 
are  divided  somewhat  like  a  pome- 
granate, and  rises  to  the  height  of 
2245  ft.  above  the  sea.  It  is  situated 
at  the  extremity  of  a  very  extensive  and 
beautiful  plain  (vega),  and  intersected 
by  the  rivers  Darro  (called  by  the  Moors 
Hadaroh),  the  Koman  Qalom,  and  the 
Genii  or  Singilis  of-  the  ancients.  The 
town  extends  in  an  amphitheatre  from 
the  river,  clothing  the  gradual  ascent 
of  the  hills,  which  are  crowned  by  the 
Alhambra.  The  plain,  dotted  now  and 
then  with  sparkling  whitewashed  villas 
like  so  many  sails,  stretches  to  the  base 
of  the  distant  mountains,  composed  of 
the  majestic  Sierra  Nevada  (the  Xolair 
of  the  Arabs),  which,  with  towering 
snowy  heights  and  Alpine  peaks,  con- 
trast beautifully  with  the  deep  blue  sky 
above  and  the  rich  green  meadows  be- 
neath. To  use  the  metaphoric  expres- 
sion of  the  Granadine  Arab  poets,  these 
mountains  may  be  compared  to  a  mass 
of  sparkling  mother-of-pearl,  a  picture 
never  to  be  forgotten. 

The  N.  portion  of  the  city,  which  was 
built  after  the  conquest,  is  called  Barrio 
de  San  Lazaro ;  the  principal  street, 
Calle  Real,  leads  to  the  Cartuja.  Here 
were  erected  dwellings  for  the  Moors, 
and  barracks  for  troops  to  Watch  their 
movements.  The  Albaicin,  so  called 
from  the  fugitives  from  Baeza  (when 
their  city  was  taken  by  St.  Ferdinand, 
1227),  is  situated  on  a  hill  close  to  the 
former  barrio.     It  once  contained  about 


172 


GRANADA. 


10, 000  inhabitants,  and  beautiful  houses 
and  gardens.  In  the  centre  was  a  mag- 
nificent mosque,  of  which  there  are  still 
some  vestiges  in  the  courtyard  close  to 
the  Church  of  San  Salvador.  The 
Moors  carried  a  stream  from  the  Al- 
facar  to  the  very  heights  of  this  hill, 
and  provided  the  houses  with  fountains 
and  a  supply  of  water  for  the  vines  and 
gardens  on  the  terraced  slopes.  It  is 
now  a  ruinous  locality,  inhabited  by 
the  poor.  Another  and  very  early  por- 
tion constitutes  the  Alcaedba,  a  line  of 
fortresses  formerly  called  Kadima,  or 
the  New ;  the  castle  of  Hysn-Al-Rroman 
stood  here,  and  there  are  some  remains 
of  the  ancient  walls  at  the  Puerta 
Monaita.  Ascend  the  height  of  San 
Christoval  to  obtain  a  good  view  of  the 
walls  and  cubos  that  extend  from  the 
Puerta  Monaita  to  the  Plaza  Larga. 
The  district  of  Antequeruela  hangs  over 
the  Genii,  and  was  so  called  because 
assigned  to  the  Moors  who  fled  from 
Antequera  in  1410.  The  Churra,  or 
Mauror  (Arabice,  district  of  the  water- 
carriers),  was  also  close  by  it,  and  on 
the  slopes  of  the  hill  crowned  with  the 
Alhambra.  The  new  portion  of  the 
city  lies  at  the  base  of  the  different 
hills.  There  is  little  or  nothing  Euro- 
pean about  the  old  town,  and  the 
Eastern,  Moro-Andelusian  aspect  of  its 
houses  guarded  with  rejas,  the  many- 
coloured  awnings  stretched  in  summer 
over  the  balconies,  the.  patios  with 
fountains  and  orange-trees  are  very 
characteristic  Many  of  the  houses  are 
gaudily  painted  outside,  the  effect  of 
which  is  not  generally  displeasing  ;  the 
streets  are  rather  lanes,  are  purposely 
narrow  and  winding,  to  keep  out  the 
arrowy  sunbeams  of  June  and  July. 
The  new  portion  has  been  awkwardly 
built  with  wide  streets  and  birdcage- 
like  houses,  with  an  infinity  of  windows. 
The  principal  streets  are,  Zacatin,  Car- 
rera  del  Daro,  Reyes  Catolicos.  The 
Darro  flows  under  the  Plaza  Nueva,  in- 


tersects the  town,  and  joins  the  GeniJ 
at  the  extremity  of  the  Carrera  and 
Acera  de  Genii. 

The  climate  is  wholesome,  the  water 
delicious  and  slightly  aperient,  the 
markets  well  provided,  especially  with 
vegetables  and  exquisite  fruit,  and  living 
is  very  cheap. 

The  name  may  have  been  originally 
applied  by  the  Wisigoths,  who  probably 
rebuilt  and  enlarged  the  primitive  for- 
tress. Cazidini,  vol.  ii. ;  Maccari,  vol.  i., 
both  cited  in  Dozy's  *  Recherches,'  say — 
Garn&thameans  rommana  (pomegranate 
in  Arabic)  in  the  Spanish  tongue.  Of 
the  Wisigothic  period,  the  only  im- 
portant remains  are  the  consecration- 
slabs  of  some  churches  built  by  the 
Wisigoth,  Gidula,  between  the  years 
594  and  607.  They  were  found  on  the 
site  now  occupied  by  the  Church  of  Sta. 
Maria  de  la  Alhambra,  and  have  been 
placed  on  its  southern  facade.  The 
churches  mentioned  on  the  slabs  were 
situated  in  a  portion  of  the  city,  pro- 
bably the  earliest,  called  Nativola. 

Sights. — 1.  The  Alhambra,  Gene- 
ralife,  and  Moorish  remains.  2.  Cathe- 
dral and  Capilla  de  los  Reyes.  3.  Car- 
tuja,  churches,  hospitals,  public  and 
private  edifices.  4.  Zacatin,  Alcaiceria, 
squares,  gates,  etc. 

Cathedral,— S  a.m.  to  11  am.,  and 
3  p.m.  to  4  p.m.  To  be  shown  it  apply 
to  the  sacristan  ;  hours,  3  p.m.  to  4  p.m. 
High  mass,  with  organ  and  chanting, 
on  Sundays,  at  10  a.m. 

Capilla  de  los  Reyes. — 9  A.M.  to  11  a.m. 
and  after  4  p.m.  Apply  to  the  sexton 
at  the  special  sacristy  of  this  church. 

Cartuja. — Closes  late  in  the  day. 
Apply  to  one  of  the  sextons. 

Generalife. — Open  all  day.  Apply 
to  the  Italian  Vice-Consul,  Casa  de  los 
Tiros,  Calle  Pavaneras. 


See  Plan  of 
the  Alhambra. 


The  Alhambra. — Open  from    9    to 


^ 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


173 


12,  and  2  to  4.     If  attendant  be  not 
desired,  get  ticket  'para  estudiar,'  at 
house  of  conservator,  near  the  Puerta 
del  Vino  :  otherwise  guide. necessary. 
Situation. — The  Alhambra  is  situated 
to  the  extreme  N.  of  the  town,  and  be- 
tween the  Darro  and  Genii,  which  it 
divides,  rises  a  long  single  ridge,  called 
£1  Cerro  del  Sol,  and  also  de  Sta.  Elina. 
At  a  point  called  La  Silla  del  Moro, 
which  is  close  to  Generalife,  the  Cerro 
slopes  downwards,  and  after  being  cleft 
in  twain  by  a  wooded  ravine,  is  inter- 
sected by  a  long  avenue  of  elm-trees. 
It  then  spreads  out  into  two  tablelands 
or  extensive  terraces,  bordered  by  pre- 
cipitous ravines.    On  the  western  ter- 
race stands    the  Alhambra,   its   base 
washed  by  the  Darro.       The  Torres 
Bermejas  rise  on  the  extreme  point  of 
the  eastern  esplanade,  occupied,  further- 
more, by  the  Campo  de  los  Martires, 
the  declivities  of  which,    being  less 
violent  than  those  of  the  one  opposite, 
fall  gently  towards  the  town,  a  part  of 
which  they  become.    These  two  terraces 
were  formerly  girt  by  walls  and  towers, 
and    connected  with    each   other  by 
winding,  and,  maybe,  walled-in  lanes. 
Within  this  fortified  circuit  stood  the 
palaces  and  villas  of  the  Kalifs  of  Gra- 
nada, as  well  as  the  principal  fortresses ; 
and  so  numerous  were  the  buildings 
clustering  on  these  heights  that  it  was 
called  a  city — Medinah  alhamra.    The 
magnificent  palace  of  the  Alijares,  cele- 
brated for  its  gardens,  was  situated  not 
far  from  Generalife,  and  close  to  a  sum- 
mer villa,   Daralharoca  (Arabics,   the 
Bride's  Mansion).      Besides  those  and 
the  Dar-Al-Wad,   or    Palace    on    the 
River,  Chateau  d'Eau,  where  there  was 
an  aviary — on  which  account  it  is  called 
by  Marmol  *  Casa  de  las  Gallinas ' — there 
were  many  other  villas  belonging  to  the 
sultans  and  their    court,  all  situated 
without    the    fortifications ;   but   the 
Hadhira,  or  Court  of  the  Kalifs,  within 


the  walls  and  on  the  western  plateau, 
constituted  the  Alhambra  proper,  oi 
what  is  still  often  called  '  La  Casa 
Real.' 

Historical  Notice. — The  name  Alham- 
bra is  a  very  early  one,  anterior  to  the 
palace  that  we  familiarly  call  so.  As 
early  as  a.d.  864-5  it  is  mentioned  in 
Ibn-1'  Alabbar's  biography  of  Suwar 
Ibn  Hamdun  (who  commanded  the 
Arabs  against  the  besieging  forces  of 
Mulades  and  Mostarabes).  In  some 
verses  copied  by  the  same,  which  were 
composed  by  Said  Ebn  Chudi,  and  ad- 
dressed by  him  to  Suwar,  he  praises  the 
latter  for  having  erected  the  Red  Castle, 
Kal'at  Al-hamrd  ;  and  during  the  siege 
already  mentioned,  the  besiegers  one 
day  shot  over  the  walls  an  arrow,  to 
which  was  tied  a  paper  with  the  fol- 
lowing verses,  which  were  written  by 
Abderrhaman  Ibn  Ahmed  of  Abla : — 

Deserted  and  roofless  are  the  houses  (of  our 
enemies),  swept  by  the  whirlwinds  of  dust  that 
the  tempestuous  winds  raise  up. 

Let  them  within  the  red  castle  hold  their 
mischievous  councils ;  the  dangers  of  war  and 
woe  surround  them  on  every  side. 

The  sons  of  those  that  our  lances  transfixed  on 
their  tottering  walls  will  also  disappear,  etc.* 

The  author  asserts  that  he  was  told 
this  fact  by  one  Obada,  who  in  his 
turn  had  obtained  the  intelligence  from 
an  eye-witness.  This  Kal'at  Alhamra 
may  be  no  other  than  the  Torres  Ber- 
mejas (Red  Towers),  which  were  pro- 
bably so  called  when  they  were  used 
by  the  Jews  as  a  fortress,  the  name 
being  derived  from  the  colour  of  the 
ferruginous  tapia-work.  In  A.D.  1019- 
20,  Habus  Ibn  Makesen  erected  a  Kas- 
sabah,  or  fortified  enclosure — which  this 
Arab  word  signifies — which  stood  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  town,  over  the  Puerta 
de  Elvira,  and  was  called  Kadimah,  or 
the  'old'  to  distinguish  it  from  the 

*  Ibn  Hayyan  'History  of  Mohammedan 
Spain/  Bodleian  Library,  Hunt  No.  464. 


174 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


Jedidah,  or  '  new '  one,  built  by  Badis, 
his  successor  (1037-8  A.D.),  and  which 
extended  from  the  former  to  the  Darro. 
The  Alcazaba,  properly  so  called,  formed 
part  of  the  Kassabah  erected  by  Badis 
Ibn  Habus,  withm  which  this  king, 
having  removed  his  court  from  Elvira 
to  Granada,  usually  resided  with  his 
wazirs  and  officers,  and  it  subsequently 
continued  to  be  the  place  of  residence 
appointed  to  the  governors  of  Granada. 
This  Kassabah  received  in  addition  to 
its  appellation  of  Al-hamrd,  the  name 
of  the  Kal'at  (now  Torres  Bermejas 
Fortress)  which  could  be  as  justly 
applied  to  all  the  buildings  within  this 
Medinah,  as  the  colour  of  the  earth  on 
and  with  which  they  were  built,  was 
eventually  the  same,  owing  to  the  pre- 
sence of  oxide  of  iron. 

The  founder  of  the  Masrite  dynasty, 
Ibn-1-Ahmar,  enlarged  considerably  the 
former  palace  erected  by  Badis,  within 
the  Kassabah,  and  built  a  new  portion, 
which  he  determined  should  surpass 
in  magnificence  the  most  celebrated 
edifices  of  the  kind  in  Damascus,  Fez, 
and  Baghdad.  The  works  began  about 
1248,  and  the  palace  was  called  Kasru- 
1-hamra,  which  means  the  Sultan's 
Mansion  (Kasr  being  a  corruption  of 
Kaiser,  Caesar)  or  the  palace  of  the 
Alhambra.  Thus  it  is  as  erroneous  to 
suppose  that  the  name  comes  from  this 
prince's  (as  it  would  then  have  been 
called  Kasr-al-hamra)  as  it  is  that  he 
was  the  origin  of  the  Al-hamares ;  in- 
deed no  such  tribe  or  clan  ever  existed. 
Ibn-1-Ahmar's  son  and  successor,  Mo- 
hammed II.,  continued  his  father's 
work,  and  repaired  the  fortifications  of 
the  Castle  of  Torres  Bermejas ;  according 
to  Ibnu-1-Khattib,  the  royal  historio- 
grapher of  Granada,  'he  added  con- 
siderably to  the  building,  and  lavished 
his  treasures  upon  the  several  artists  he 
employed  to  decorate  its  gilded  halls.' 
Isma'il  Ibn  Faraj  (1300)  built  the  little 


mosque  withm  the  palace.  Yusuf  I. 
(Abu-1-hajaj),  ob.  1354,  whose  revenues 
were  so  vast  that  he  was  reputed  to 
owe  his  riches  to  the  transmutation  of 
metals,  spent  these  on  the  building  of 
many  new  suites  of  apartments  in  the 
palace,  and  in  repainting,  gilding,  and 
repairing  of  the  older  portions.  Ac- 
cording to  Ibnu-1-Khattib,  quoted  by 
Sr.  Gayangos,  the  gold  was  procured 
from  the  interior  of  Africa,  and  beaten 
into  thin  strips ;  the  expense  of  the 
new  works  and  repairs  exceeded,  says 
the  same  author,  the  bounds  of  calcula- 
tion. 

After  the  surrender  of  Granada,  the 
Catholic  kings  remained  but  a  very 
short  time  at  the  Alhambra,  which  be- 
came the  property  of  the  crown,  formed 
an  independant  jurisdiction,  and  a 
separate  parish.  When  they  left,  they 
intrusted  its  custody  to  Don  Inigo 
Lopez  de  Mendoza,  Count  of  Tendilla, 
who  had  been  appointed  governor  or 
alcaide  on  the  very  day  of  the  surrender 
of  the  Moors.  Under  Isabella  and 
Ferdinand,  the  monks  and  soldiers  who 
were  left  in  and  around  the  mosques 
and  fortresses  of  the  hated  Moor,  who 
had  threatened  their  altars  and  disputed 
their  castles  for  so  many  centuries, 
vented  their  spite  and  hatred  upon  the 
inoffensive  stone  and  iron.  The-  open- 
work was  filled  up  with  whitewash,  the 
painting  and  gilding  effaced,  the  furni- 
ture soiled,  torn,  removed,  and  never 
replaced.  Charles  V.  rebuilt  portions 
in  the  modern  style  of  the  period,  and 
destroyed  what  was  fortunately  an 
unimportant  part  to  make  room  for 
his  intended  and  never  finished  palace. 
Philip  V.  Italianised  the  rooms,  and 
completed  the  degradation  by  run- 
ning up  partitions  which  blocked  up 
whole  rooms,  gems  of  taste  and  patient 
ingenuity,  and  concealed  the  Tarkish 
and  azulejos  under  such  deep  coats  of 
whitewash  that  the  pickaxe  is  necessary 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


175 


to  remove  it.  It  became  subsequently 
an  asylum  for  debtors  and  state 
prisoners ;  the  French  in  1810-12  turned 
it  into  barracks  and  magazines  for 
their  troops.  The  magnificent  Moorish 
mosque,  Mesjid  Aljami,  that  was  built 
by  Mohammed  III.  in  the  early  part  of 
the  14th  century,  was  destroyed  by  the 
French.  According  to  Ibnu-1-Khattib 
it  was  considered  to  have  no  rival  in 
the  world.  The  French  blew  up  several 
towers,  and  if  the  whole  Alhambra  which 
they  had  mined  was  not  blown  up,  it 
was  not  their  merit,  but  due  to  the 
courage  of  a  corporal  of  invalidos,  who 
put  out  the  fusees.  The  gobernadores, 
before  and  after  this  period,  until  re- 
cently, speculated  on  the  interest  and 
curiosity  that  was  daily  awakening  for 
the  Alhambra,  and  made  their  fortunes, 
selling  what  could  be  easily  removed, 
and  all  went  on  fast  to  utter  ruin.  In 
1842,  by  the  care  of  the  Progresista 
minister,  Arguelles,  a  miserable  sum 
was  destined  from  the  queen's  privy 
purse  for  repairs ;  somewhat  later  the 
sum  of  10,000r.  (£100)  was  assigned 
and  ill  paid.  Things  now,  however, 
looked  brighter ;  and  on  her  visit  to 
Granada,  which  took  place  in  1862,  the 
Queen  Isabella  was  so  struck  with  her 
visit  to  the  Alhambra  that  she  de- 
termined to  repair  and  restore  it  as 
much  as  possible  to  its  former  state, 
and  enacted  measures  calculated  to 
realise  that  royal  and  generous  resolu- 
tion. 

The  repairs  were  entrusted  to  Sr.  Don 
Rafael  Contreras,  a  native  of  Granada, 
whose  zeal  and  patriotic  enthusiasm 
towards  the  completion  of  this  work  can 
only  be  compared  with  his  perfect 
knowledge  and  acquaintance  with 
Moorish  art.  Much  has  been  already 
achieved,  and  in  a  manner  highly 
creditable  —  the  Patio  de  la  Alberca 
(the  scene  of  the  fire-  in  1891)  and  Sala 
de  Descanso  and  likewise  several  por- 


tions in  the  Hall  of  Comares  or  Ambas- 
sadors, Council  Hall  (del  Tribunal), 
and  Court  of  Lions.  (Consult  his 
'Estudio  Descriptivo  de  los  Monu- 
mentos  Arabes  de  Granada  Sevilla  y 
Cordoba,'  Madrid,  1883.)  Since  the 
death  of  Sefior  Contreras,  however,  iu 
1893,  the  work  has  been  directed  by 
his  son,  and  there  is  a  lamentable  fall- 
ing off  in  its  quality. 

Style. — The  general  style  of  the  Al- 
hambra belongs  to  the  third  period 
of  Moorish  architecture.  It  is  want- 
ing in  that  unity  of  design,  typical 
forms,  lofty  inspiration,  and  breadth, 
for  which  the  Mosque  of  Cordova 
and  other  edifices  of  that  time  are 
so  remarkable.  The  early  phase  in 
Moorish  art,  of  which  the  latter  were 
the  growth,  arose  with  a  peculiar 
state  of  civilisation,  marked  by  an 
ascetic  and  stern  spirit  which  shunned 
vain  ornament,  scorned  frivolous  effects, 
and  sought  rather  vast  proportions, 
simplicity,  harmony,  strength — true 
signs  of  power  and  genius.  Now,  at 
the  time  when  the  Alhambra  was 
raised,  the  dissolution  of  the  Moslem 
empire  had  already  begun,  and  en- 
gendered a  similar  state  of  decadence 
among  architects,  and  oblivion  of  the 
primary  principles  of  their  art  Thus 
whilst  the  edifices  of  Cordova  were  the 
work  of  an  age  of  mosques  and  fort- 
resses (of  conquest  and  unity  of  faith), 
the  Alhambra  must  be  looked  upon  as 
the  salient  example  of  an  age  of  pa- 
laces, which  was  also  one  of  religious 
indifference.  The  Berber  and  invading 
Arab  built  massively  to  root  deeply, 
as  it  were,  a  new  race,  that  settled  by 
main  force  in  the  enemy's  land,  whilst 
the  more  refined  Grenadine,  who  had  be- 
come the  permanent  possessor,  sought 
rather  to  embellish  and  enjoy  the 
dearly-won  kingdom,  peopling  it  with 
marble  palaces,  gardens,  and  groves. 
Exaggeration  in  the  outlines  of  arches^ 


178 


GRANADA. — A  L11AMBRA. 


excess  of  ornamentation  (that  sure  test 
of  decadence  in  art),  an  exuberance  of 
rolievi  or  surface-decorations,  paltry 
proportions,  generalisation  and  abuse 
of  plaster  arches  and  walls — such  are 
the  most  characteristic  defects  which 
a  hypercritical  spirit  may  discover  in 
the  construction  of  the  Alhambra. 
But  granting  all  this,  granting,  too, 
the  lack  of  originality  and  absence 
of  monumental  stonework,  it  will 
yet  bo  preferred  by  the  generality  of 
travellers  to  any  other  Moorish  struc- 
ture in  Spain,  for  it  must  be  admitted 
that  it  stands  unrivalled  in  the  gorgeous 
splendour  of  its  halls,  and  that  no- 
where, nor  at  any  time,  has  its  decora- 
tive art  been  exceeded.  This  is  shown 
in  that  taste,  effeminate  elegance,  ex- 
quisite grace,  wonderful  variety  of  the 
patterns — all  most  cunningly  executed. 
Happy  and  novel  appliances  of  poetical 
concetti  and  Alcoranic  passages  to  en- 
hance and  form  part  of  the  ornamenta- 
tion ;  airy  lightness,  veil-like  trans- 
parency of  filagree  stucco,  partitions 
coloured  and  gilt  like  the  sides  of%a 
Stamboul  casket — such,  with  many 
others,  are  the  main  features  of  this 
the  worthy  palace  of  the  voluptuous 
khaliffs  of  Granada,  who  hold  dominion 
over  the  sunny  land  which  their  poets 
defined  *a  terrestrial  paradise.'  De- 
scriptions of  what  it  must  have  been 
once  can  only  be  found  in  the  '  Arabian 
Nights,'  though  even  in  this  respect, 
reality,  no  doubt,  must  have  beggared 
their  fantastical  creations. 

Everything  interests  us  in  the  Al- 
hambra, for  besides  the  intrinsic  value 
as  a  monument  of  this  romantic  pile, 
how  many  poetical  legends  of  love  and 
war,  how  many  associations  has  it  with 
stirring  scenes  of  harem  dramas,  politi- 
cal intrigues,  and  bloody  executions. 

Entrances. — The  principal  entrances 
into  the  Medinah  Alhambra  were  for- 


merly the  Gate  of  the  Law,  of  th. 
Seven  Stories  of  the  Catholic  Kings 
of  the  Armoury,  and  Bab-'el-Ujar ; 
that  of  Los  Coches  and  Puerta  de 
Hierro  are  modern.  "We  shall  proceed 
by  the  steep  Calle  de  los  Gomeres, 
which  is  terminated  by  the  clumsy, 
massive  Puerta  de  las  Granadas,  so 
called  from  the  pomegranates  thaj  are 
placed  over  it,  and  are  the  canting 
arms  of  the  city.  This  gate,  an  awk- 
ward monument  of  the  Tuscan  style, 
was  built  under  the  reign  and  by  order 
of  Charles  V.,  when  the  avenues  inside 
were  laid  out,  and  intended  to  lead  up 
to  his  palace.  It  is  on  the  site  of  the 
Moorish  gate  of  Bib,  or  Bab-el-Ujar. 
At  each  extremity  is  a  reclining  figure, 
much  disfigured,  and  intended  to  sym- 
bolise Peace  and  Plenty.  This  once 
passed,  we  enter  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
Alhambra.  Three  avenues  lie  before 
us :  the  main  one  in  the  centre  leads 
up  to  Generalise ;  the  narrow  one,  on 
the  right,  winds  up  to  the  Torres  Ber- 
mejas,  which  rise  high  above  in  that 
direction.  By  a  more  precipitous 
ascent  to  the  left,  we  will  proceed  at 
once  to  the  principal  entrance,  the 
Gate  of  Judgment. 

N.  B. — We  advise  tourists,  and  ladie3 
especially,  to  go  up  in  a  carriage  as  far 
at  least  as  this  last-named  point,  as  the 
ascent  is  steep  and  long,  and  one  ar- 
rives to  the  top  heated  and  fatigued, 
just  when  all  the  attention  and  activity 
are  required. 

The  grounds  of  the  Alhambra  are 
woody,  and  at  spring-time  full  of  sweet- 
scented  wild  flowers,  which  numerous 
rills  of  snow-water,  gushing  from  the 
Sierra,  keep  up  green  and  blossoming. 
Flocks  of  nightingales  seek  at  that 
season  the  shade  of  the  secluded 
bowers,  and  their  joyous  songs  blend 
with  the  murmur  of  fountains  and  the 
buzz  of  myriads  of  insects.  These  so- 
called  gardens,  weedy  and  ravincd  as 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


177 


they  be,  are  a  most  charming  resort  in 
the  sultly  hours  of  spring  and  summer, 
and  a  place  of  untiring  enjoyment. 

Pilar  de  Carlos  V,  (Quinto). — This 
historically  interesting  fountain  is 
placed  against  the  wall,  close  to  the 
Gate  of  Justice.  It  was  erected  for  the 
Emperor  Charles  V.  by  the  then  Al- 
caide of  the  Alhambra,  Marquis  of 
Mondejar.      The  style  is  the  Graeco- 

*  Roman,  or  rather  Tuscan,  which  was 
beginning  to  be  adopted  in  Spain. 
The  stone  is  from  Sierra  Elvira.  The 
crowned  heads  of  the  genii  are  intended 
to  represent  the  Darro,  Genii,  and 
Beiro  which  fertilise  the  vega.  Observe 
the  escutcheons  of  the  house  of  Monde- 
jar,  and  the  mezzo-relievo  ornaments, 
the  emperor's  shield,  marine  genii,  dol- 
phins, and  the  columns  of  Hercules. 
The  wall  against  which  it  rests  is  90 
ft.  long  by  15  ft.  high,  and  ornamented 
with  Doric  pillars.  Between  these  are 
four  medallions  with  mythological  sub- 
jects. It  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
berrueguete  style,  although  the  Escuzar 
stone  being  over-porous  and  sandy,  the 
medallions  cannot  be  seen  to  advantage. 
Juan  de  Mena  was  employed  in  some 
portions,  but  certainly  the  genii  were 
not  his  work.  It  was  completed  in 
1624,  and  has  been  well  repaired  by 
the  governor,  Sr.  Parejo. 

Puerta  Jvdidaria  (Gate  of  Judgment). 
This  is  a  plain,  massive,  and  somewhat 
clumsy  monument,  which  served  as  an 
outwork  to  the  fortress  and  an  arch  or 
entrance-hall  to  the  Alhambra,  but  was 
principally  used  as,  and  expressly  built 
for,  an  open-air  court  of  justice,  held, 

-  as  usual  in  the  East,  by  the  khalife  or 
his  kaid,  whose  duties  as  pontiff  (Emyr- 
al-Moumenyn,  king  and  chief  magis- 
trate, made  it  incumbent  upon  him  to 
give  audience  to  the  humblest  of  his 
subjects,  settle  disputes,  and  dispense 
judgment  personally.  This  patriarchal 
custom  is  still  prevalent  in  most  cities 


in  the  East,  and  was,  with  many  others, 
received  by  the  Arabs  from  the  Hebrews 
('Judges  shalt  thou  make  in  all  thy 
gates,'  Deut.  xvi.  18  ;  and  also,  'Then 
he  made  a  porch  where  he  might  judge, 
even  the  porch  of  judgment,'  1  Kings 
vii.  7.  In  the  book  of  Job  xxix. 
7,  8,  9,  the  patriarchal  magnate  is  re- 
presented as  going  forth  to  the  'gate,' 
amidst  the  respectful  silence  of  elders, 
princes,  and  nobles,  (xxxii.  9,  and 
Ruth  iv.  2).  Hence  came  the  usage 
of  'la  Sublime  Porte'  in  speaking  of 
the  Government  of  Constantinople, 
being  considered  also  places  of  public 
deliberation  and  halls  to  give  audience 
to  ambassadors.  ('Early  Travels'). 
Over  the  arch  runs  an  inscription 
in  African  letters,  which  records  its 
elevation  by  Abu-1-walid  Yusuf,  and 
the  date,  1348.  It  is  there  called  the 
'  Gate  of  the  Law,'  and  '  a  monument 
of  eternal  glory. '  It  is  one  of  the  many 
buildings  erected  in  the  Alhambra  by 
its  great  decorator,  the  Khalife  Yusuf 
I.,  who  was  their  architect  himself. 
The  tower  is  almost  a  perfect  square, 
measuring  about  47  ft.  wide  by  62  ft. 
high.  The  horseshoe  arch  is  28  ft 
high  to  the  hand  which  is  engraven 
above  it.  The  marble  sculptured  pil- 
lars on  each  side  of  the  gate  are  termi- 
nated by  capitals  ornamented  with 
sculpturing,  and  bearing  the  following 
inscription  : — 

'  There  is  no  God  but  Allah  :  Mo- 
hammed is  the  envoy  (prophet)  from 
Al-lah.  There  is  no  power  or  strength 
but  in  Al-lah.' 

The  walls  are  built  with  limestone 
from  Loja  and  Sierra  Elvira  in  concrete 
or  tapia-work.  Over  the  outer  horse- 
shoe arch  is  part  of  an  arm,  with  out- 
stretched hand  placed  upwards,  which, 
according  to  some  writers,  is  considered 
typical  of  the  five  principal  tenets  of 
the  Mussulman's  creed :  1.  Belief  in 
God  and  Mohammed.     2.  To  pray  (and 


N 


178 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA, 


ablutions).  3.  To  give  alms.  4.  To 
keep  the  fast  of  Rhamadan.  5.  Pil- 
grimage to  Mekka  and  Medina.  The 
number  of  the  commandments  corre- 
sponding with  that  of  the  fingers,  as  we 
read  in  Deut.  vi.  8,  speaking  of  the 
commandments,  '  And  thou  shalt  bind 
them  for  a  sign  upon  thine  hand,  and 
they  shall  be  as  frontlets  between  thine 
eyes.'  But  it  is  more  likely  that  the 
hand  was  placed  on  the  entrance,  as  is 
now  the  custom  (and  we  have  often  seen 
it  so)  on  every  door  in  Morocco,  to 
avert  the  evil  eye.  Probably  both 
these  meanings  must  be  understood  to  be 
combined  in  this  symbol.*  (See  p.  123.) 
The  small  image  of  the  Virgin  in  a 
niche  over  the  arch  is  indifferent  and  of 
wood.  Turning  on  the  staircase  before 
the  second  doorway  is  the  place  where 
the  khalife  sat  to  give  judgment. 
Here  is  a  guardroom,  and  the  soldiers 
you  see  may  have  been  some  of  the 
brave  Spanish  army,  who  but  a  few 
years  ago  defeated  the  descendants  of 
the  founders  of  these  very  walls  round 

*  This  superstition  was  shared  by  every  nation 
of  the  earth.     Virgil,  in  his  third  iEneid,  says  : 

Vix  ossibus  haerent : 

Nescio  quis  teneros  oculus  mihi  fascinat  agnos. 

And  there  was  also  the  superstition  concerning 
knots  made  in  a  particular  manner,  and  said  to 
have  been  breathed  upon  by  Jewish  sorcerers. 
Mohammed  himself  was  bewitched  by  a  Jew, 
who  held  a  thread  over  a  well  with  eleven  knots 
on  it ;  the  mystery  of  which  was  revealed  to 
him  by  the  angel  Gabriel,  and  which  led  to  his 
writing  the  113th  and  114th  Suras,  called  '  the 
preserving.'  These  were  inscribed  on  amulets, 
and  hung  round  the  neck.  The  first  acted  as  a 
talisman  against  evils  to  the  body,  and  the  se- 
cond preserved  the  soul  from  all  danger.  Similar 
hands  in  coral,  sufficiently  small  to  wear  round 
the  neck,  are  found  in  Naples ;  and  in  Tangier, 
Tetouan,  and  other  cities  in  Morocco,  rings  and 
ear-rings  are  sold  with  a  golden  or  silver  hand 
upon  them.  According  to  Pedraza,  '  Hist,  de 
Granada,'  and  Argote,  'Paseos,'  vol.  ii.,  the 
use  of  these  and  other  suchlike  amulets  by  the 
Moors  was  prohibited  in  1526  by  order  of 
Charles  V.  and  his  mother,  Dofia  Juana. 


which  they  now  "keep  sentry,  for  in 
Spain  the  Moor  seems  destined  never 
to  die. 

Over  the  second  arch  is  a  key  sculp- 
tured— another  symbol  of  the  power 
granted  to  the  Prophet  to  open  or  shut 
the  gates  of  heaven.  In  one  of  the 
Suras  it  is  distinctly  said  :  '  Did  not 
Al-lah  give  him  the  keys  with  the  rank 
of  doorkeeper,  that  he  (the  Prophet) 
should  be  entitled  to  usher  in  the' 
elected  ones? — a  statement  whose  ori- 
gin is  evidently  to  be  found  in  the 
Christian's  New  Testament.  The  key 
was  also  a  sign  of  knowledge  and  of 
power,  and  was  used  as  a  badge  by  the 
Moors  soon  after  they  had  invaded 
Spain,  and  occurs  more  than  once  over 
doors  within  the  Alhambra.  The  cham- 
berlains of  the  kings  of  Spain  wear  a 
gold  key  on  their  coats,  a  mark  of  their 
office.  The  passages  between  the  outer 
and  inner  gate  are  winding  and  tortu- 
ous, as  appears  in  many  other  outworks 
of  the  same  kind,  either  Arab  or  medi- 
aeval, and  were  so  contrived  to  check 
the  advancing  foe  in  his  entrance,  and 
augment  the  means  of  defence.  The 
three  inner  arches  were  built  with 
brick,  and  angular  forms,  and  an  empty 
space  of  about  six  yards  was  left  from 
the  turrets  to  the  door,  the  latter  made 
with  an  opening  over  it  to  facilitate 
throwing  all  sorts  of  projectiles.  The 
words  in  the  inscription,  'May  God 
make  this  (the  gate)  a  protecting  bul- 
wark,' together  with  its  massiveness 
and  position,  do  not  leave  a  doubt  as  to 
its  being  intended  also  as  the  key  to  a 
powerful  line  of  defence.  The  door 
consists  of  two  leaves,  strengthened 
by  iron  plates,  closed  with  peculiar 
locks,  and  fastened  with  transverse 
metal  bars. 

Turning  now  sharply  to  the  right, 
we  pass  an  altar  placed  in  the  wall, 
with  an  indifferent  painting  represent- 
ing the  Virgin  and  Child.     Although 


J 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


179 


asserted  by  some  too  credulous  and 
most  ignorant  admirers  to  be  the  replica 
of  the  identical  portrait  of  the  Virgin 
Mary,  painted  by  St  Luke,  the  mere 
fact  of  its  being  in  oil  colours  is  enough 
to  contradict  such  a  statement,  without 
entering  into  the  style,  draperies,  etc. 
On  the  wall  to  the  right  is  an  inscrip- 
tion, on  a  marble  slab,  which  records 
the  conquest  of  Granada,  and  appoint- 
ment of  Count  Tendilla  as  its  governor 
(alcaide). 

Plaza  de  los  Algibes  (Place  of  the 
Cisterns). — The  walled-in  plateau  or 
terrace  on  which  the  Alhambra  stands 
is  the  highest  hill  of  the  four  on  which 
Granada  has  been  built,  and  commands 
the  town  and  plain,  from  which  it  is 
divided  by  the  Darro.  It  is  2430  feet 
long  by  674  ft  in  its  widest  part.  The 
red  walls,  6ft.  thick  by  30  high,  on  an 
average,  girdle  the  hill  on  the  E.  side, 
linked  and  strengthened  by  buttresses 
and  towers,  many  of  which  formed  the 
detached  residences  of  sultanas  and 
great  officers.  If  you  stand  on  the  pla- 
zuela  which  is  in  front  of  the  Church 
of  San  Nicolas,  and  from  which  the 
best  view  of  the  Alhambra  is  to  be  ob- 
tained, you  will  notice  clearly  the  long 
lines  of  irregularly-built  walls  following 
the  sinuosities  of  the  ground,  termi- 
nating on  the  left  by  the  Tower  de  las 
Infantas,  and  followed  up  to  the  right 
by  the  Torre  de  la  Cautiva,  de  los 
Picos,  portions  of  the  Tower  of  the  To- 
cador,  rising  somewhat  more  than  the 
rest,  and  hanging  over  the  romantic 
ravine.  Of  the  three  separate  portions, 
the  first  on  the  left  is  composed  of  the 
Torre  de  Comares  and  the  palace ;  at 
the  extreme  right  is  the  Alcazaba,  or 
fortress,  with  its  dismantled  castle,  and 
in  the  space  between,  the  Plaza  de  los 
Algibes,  on  which  the  palace  of  Charles 
III.  rises,  extending  its  square  un- 
t/roken  lines  a  little  to  the  left  (see  plan). 
The   aspect   of   the  exterior  of  those 


towers  is  severe,  plain,  and  of  uniform 
structure,  yet  far  from  appearing  mono- 
tonous. The  effect  is  most  picturesque, 
and  the  deep  orange  colouring  contrasts 
happily  with  the  emerald  green  slopes. 
The  simplicity  and  absence  of  orna- 
mentation and  windows  were  intended  to 
guard  off  the  three  greatest  enemies  of 
the  Moor — heat,  the  evil  eye,  and  the 
enemy '8  projectile.  This  plaza  is  truly 
an  epitome  of  the  history  of  Spain,  and 
evidence  in  stone  of  its  changing  dy- 
nasties, races,  and  creeds.  The  vestiges 
that  remain  of  Illiberis  mark  the  Ro- 
man period,  as  the  Torres  Bermejas 
and  Puerta  del  Sol  recall,  though  vaguely, 
the  Carthaginian's  rule. 

By  the  side  of  the  Mussulman's 
eastern  palace  rises  the  Tuscan  palace 
of  the  German  Charles  V.;  the  parish 
church  of  Sta.  Maria  is  on  the  site  of 
the  former  mosque,  and  close  to  the 
still  standing  Mihrab,  now  called  Puerta 
del  Vino.  The  crumbled  walls  of 
towers  and  devastation  of  the  gardens 
are  a  memorial  of  Bonaparte's  soldiers  ; 
and  the  line  of  hovels,  the  residence  of 
oily,  vacant,  ill-fed,  and  ill-paid  ein- 
pleados,  together  with  the  ruinous 
walls,  never  propped  up,  are  but  too 
plainly  characteristic  of  Spanish  ne- 
glect 

The  Plaza  de  los  Algibes  is  so  called 
from  the  cisterns  or  tanks  which  receive 
the  waters  of  the  Darro,  and  are  about 
125  ft.  long  by  25  ft.  broad.  They  are 
deep,  built  with  vaults  and  horse-shoe 
arches.  A  draw-well  in  the  corner  of 
the  square  is  used  to  raise  the  water, 
which  is  carried  by  aguadores  into  the 
town,  and  is  much  esteemed  for  its 
freshness  and  purity.  The  plaza  is 
about  225  ft.  long  by  187  ft.  wide.  To 
the  left  rises  the  fortress  of  the  Al- 
hambra, the  Kassabah,  and  to  the  "^ht 
the  Puerta  del  Vino,  the  palace  of 
Charles  V.,  and  almost  behind  the 
Casa  Real,  or  palace  of  the  Moors. 


180 


GRANADA  — ALHAMBRA. 


We  advise  our  readers  to  leave  the 
Tuscan  Palace  and  Alcazaba,  for  the 
end  of  their  visit,  and  proceed  at  once 
to  the  Alhambra,  after  a  glance  at  the 

Puerto  del  Vino  (Gate  of  the  Wine). 
— So  designated  because  there  was  here, 
probably,  a  storehouse  for  the  pellejos 
or  skins  of  wine  which  were  brought 
from  Alcala.  Here,  too,  was  the  chief 
entrance  of  the  town  of  the  Alta  Alham- 
bra, with  the  house  of  the  Eadi,  and 
minor  palaces  of  the  aristocratic  hangers- 
on  to  the  Court  This  puerta  is  most 
massive  and  beautiful  Notice  especi- 
ally the  azulejos  of  the  posterior  arch. 
It  was  built  by  Mohammed  V.  The 
inscription  over  the  arch  begins  : — 

1  I  flee  to  God  for  protection  from  Satan,  the 
pelted  with  stones.*  In  the  name  of  God,  the 
merciful  and  compassionate.  May  the  blessing 
of  God  Best  on  our  lord  and  master  Mohammed, 
and  upon  his  family  and  followers.' 

Then  follow  the  1st,  2d,  and  3d 
verses  of  the  48th  Sura  of  the  Koran, 
and  praises  to  the  Sultan  Abu,  Abdil- 
lah,  Al-gani,  Bil-lah  (the  contented 
with  God),  who  erected  this  monument 

palace  of  i(je  ^ambra.— The  palace 
proper,  as  will  be  seen  at  a  glance,  oc- 
cupied but  a  very  small  corner  of  the 
great  Alhambra  enclosure.  There  were, 
besides,  the  Alcazaba,  occupying  the 
whole  of  the  western  extremity,  and 
the  town  of  the  Alta  Alhambra,  on  the 
south  and  east,  capable  of  containing 
some  20,000  souls.  (It  had  a  popula- 
tion of  6000  as  late  as  the  year  1625.) 
The  palace — or  rather  palaces,  for  there 
were  three  of  them  (1)  the  older,  mez- 
quita  portion,  on  the  west ;  (2)  the 
central  Court  of  the  Berkah  and  the 

*  This  expression,  which  often  recurs  in  in- 
scriptions in  the  Alhambra,  is  found  in  the 
Koran.  According  to  a  tradition  among  the 
Moors,  Abraham  being  often  molested  by  the 
repeated  temptations  of  the  devil,  was  wont  to 
take  up  stones  and  pelt  the  intruder,  who  then 
withdrew,  struck,  we  suppose,  with  so  weighty 
a  argument-urn  ad  diabolum. 


rooms  lying  to  the  north  of  it ;  (3)  the 
Lion  Court  and  all  its  dependencies — 
hung  over  the  Darro,  and  the  princi- 
pal entrance  was  by  a  zaguan  lead- 
ing past  the  mosque  into  the  Court  of 
the  Berkah.  The  present  entrance  is 
by  a  small,  insignificant  door,  placed 
at  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  Court  of  the 
Berkah,  and  which  is  reached  through 
a  narrow  lane  formed  by  the  palace  of 
Charles  V.  on  the  right,  and  the  partly 
modern  and  partly  Moorish  house  in- 
habited by  the  gobernador.  Entering 
a  small  corridor,  a  staircase  to  the  left 
leads  up  to  the  functionary's  habita- 
ciones,  which  have  been  repaired,  but 
possess  little  interest.  The  archives  of 
the  Alhambra  are  kept  here,  as  well  as 
two  slabs  of  white  marble  exquisitely 
sculptured  ;  they  are  erroneously  called 
Mesas — tables — and  from  the  inscrip- 
tion were  probably  placed  in  the  wall 
or  over  some  arch  in  a  mihrab  or 
mosque. 

The  other  table  has  no  inscription 
except  the  well-known  '  Wa  la  ghaliba- 
illa- Allah,'  'There  is  no  conqueror  but 
God.' 

This  corridor  has  been  modernised, 
but  bears  traces  here  and  there  of  the 
Moorish  period.  There  are  some  elegant 
arches  and  exquisite  niches,  erroneously 
called  babucheros  (from  babuche,  slip- 
pers) by  Echavarria  and  others,  who 
assert  that  the  slippers,  which  in  the 
East  are  always  left  on  entering  a  habi- 
tation, were  placed  inside.  It  is  an  im- 
memorial Eastern  custom :  *  And  he 
said :  Draw  not  nigh  hither ;  put  off 
thy  shoes  from  off  thy  feet,  for  the  place 
whereon  thou  standestis  holy  ground.' 
(Exodus  iii.  5.  and  Josh.  v.  15,  etc.) 
From  their  usual  inscriptions,  and 
being  usually  placed  within  the  inner 
apartments,  together  with  what  we 
have  seen  so  often  in  Morocco,  there  is 
no  doubt  that  they  were  used  to  hold 
porous  al-carrazas,  full  of  fresh  water, 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


181 


and  lights  placed  in  crystal  cases  or 
transparent  porcelain.  Now,  turning 
to  the  right,  we  shall  enter  the 

Patio  de  la  Berkah,  or  de  los  Arra- 
ganes  (Court  of  the  Blessing,  or  of  the 
Myrtles). — Although  some  authors  have 
derived  the  Spanish  designation  alberca 
from  al-beerkeh,  a  tank,  a  pond,  we 
think  the  derivation  from  berkah,  the 
blessing,  applies  more  accurately  to 
this  court,  because  it  was  used  for 
ablutions  by  the  royal  family,  and  all 
others  who  were  present  at  the  zalah 
held  in  the  private  mosque  of  the  pa- 
lace, which  is  close  by.  This  patio  is 
140  ft.  long  by  74  ft.  broad,  of  an  ob- 
long form.  In  the  centre  is  a  large 
pond,  set  in  the  marble  pavement,  and 
uow  full  of  goldfish.  Along  the  sides 
are  edges  of  myrtles,  carefully  trimmed, 
and  kept  low,  and  the  court  hence  has 
often  been  called  *  de  los  Arrayanes ' 
(Arrabice,  arr-ayan,  myrtle).  There 
are  galleries  on  the  N.  and  S.  sides  ; 
that  on  the  right  as  you  go  in  (the  S.) 
is  27  ft.  high,  and  is  supported  by  a 
marble  colonnade ;  over  this  gallery 
rises  a  second,  forming  a  sort  of  entresol, 
8  ft.  high  to  the  ceiling.  Underneath 
it,  to  the  right,  was  one  of  the  en- 
trances; the  door  was  inutilizada,  as 
the  Spaniards  graphically  express  it, 
when  Charles  V.'s  palace  blocked  up 
all  that  side.  Over  it  are  three  elegant 
windows  with  arches,  and  six  miniature 
pillars ;  the  two  large  niches  at  the 
extremities  are  3  ft.  deep,  and  deli- 
cately ornamented  with  oval  arches, 
resting  on  white  Macael  marble.  The 
azulejo  dado  under  these  niches,  as  also 
the  azulejos  in  the  Patio  de  los  Leones, 
has  been  carelessly  removed,  and,  it  is 
to  be  feared,  lost.  The  eight  pillars 
supporting  the  gallery,  and  close  to 
the  mosque,  are  of  great  lightness, 
and  the  ornamentation  of  the  capitals 
varies  in  each.  Arches,  slender  and 
pliant  like  palms,  spring  from  the  capi- 


tals, and  bend  most  gracefully  on« 
towards  another  until  they  meet  At 
the  base  of  each,  which  is  divided  into 
four  sides,  are  medallions,  with  the 
words,  '  Perpetual  Salvation,'  in  Cufic 
characters.  The  ceiling  of  the  galleries 
is  plain,  inlaid  with  wood  carved  into 
angular  patterns,  all  of  which  used  to 
be  painted  and  gilt ;  the  external  orna- 
mentation of  the  gallery  is  formed  by 
a  stucco  tapestry,  interwoven  with 
flowers  and  leaves  ;  the  walls  are  high, 
and  were  tolerably  restored  in  1842. 
Observe  the  six  oval  doors  and  agimez 
windows.  The  upper  gallery  was  re- 
stored by  Senor  Contreras,  the  father, 
we  believe,  of  Don  Rafael.  The 
tank  is  a  parallelogram,  124  ft.  long, 
and  27  ft.  wide,  and  5  ft.  deep  ;  at  each 
extremity  is  a  tazza  of  white  marble, 
from  which  the  water  oozes  rather  than 
flows  into  the  reservoir.  This  court 
was  built  by  Ibn-1-Ahmar,  but  richly 
decorated,  painted,  and  gilt  by  Yusuf  I. 
Like  most  of  the  halls  and  courts  in 
this  palace,  this  one  has  been  the  scene 
of  many  a  deadly  deed  of  vengeance 
and  jealousy.  Mohammed  III.,  who 
had  hastened  to  Granada  on  hearing  the 
report  of  the  presumed  death  of  the 
usurper  Nasr,  was  astonished,  on 
alighting  at  the  gate  of  the  Alhambra, 
to  find  that  Nasr  had  recovered  from 
the  apoplectic  fit  which  had  caused  the 
report  to  be  spread.  Mohammed  was 
instantly  seized  and  confined  in  a 
dungeon,  whence  he  was  removed  to 
this  court,  executed,  and  his  body 
thrown  into  the  pond,  April  1311. 
From  this  court  the  imposing  walls  of 
the  Torre  de  Comares  are  seen  rising 
over  the  roof  and  to  the  N.  This  tower 
and  the  colonnades  are  reflected  in  the 
crystal  mirror  of  the  water,  and  truly 
'  lend  enchantment  to  the  view. ' 
Optical  effects,  produced  by  water, 
light  and  shade,  and  combined  gradual 
elevation,   with  an  almost    insensible 


182 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


inequality  in  the  floors  of  apartments, 
were  often  most  happily  treated  and 
rendered  by  Moorish  architects.  This 
must  have  been  a  fairy  entrance  into  a 
palace,  when  it  was  sparkling  all  over 
with  gilding  and  vivid  colours.  The 
shield  of  the  Moorish  kings  of  Granada 
recurs  very  often.  It  is  a  plain  escut- 
cheon with  a  bend,  once  red,  and  the 
motto,  '  There  is  no  conqueror  but 
God.'  This  is  the  origin  of  the  motto 
and  shield.  Ibn-1-Ahmar,  who  had 
been  the  vassal  of  Ferdinand,  was 
present  at  the  surrender  of  Seville,  and 
contributed  to  the  victory  obtained  by 
the  Christians.  On  his  way  back  to 
Granada,  where  he  had  determined  to 
build  the  Al-hamra,  his  subjects,  who 
held  him  in  great  veneration,  greeted 
him,  Galib,  the  conqueror,  to  which 
he  replied,  *  Wa  la  ghalib  ilia  Al-lah' — 
'There  is  no  conqueror  but  God.' 
According  to  another  legend,  on  the 
eve  of  the  battle  of  Alarcos,  which 
proved  fatal  to  the  Christians,  an  angel 
appeared  in  the  heavens,  riding  a  spark- 
ling white  horse,  and  waving  in  his 
hand  a  flag  which  reached  from  pole  to 
pole,  and  bore  these  same  words.  As 
modest  a  reply  was  made  by  the  Black 
Prince,  after  the  battle  of  Nagera, 
'  Thank  me  not,  but  rather  praise  God, 
for  His,  not  mine,  is  the  victory.' 
Ibn-1-Ahmar,  on  his  being  knighted 
by  St.  Ferdinand,  adopted  this  motto 
(mote)  on  his  coat-of-arms,  which  was 
heraldically  a  field,  ore  and  Bend 
argent,  with  the  above  motto  sable, 
but  the  bend  and  field  varied  at  differ- 
ent periods.  The  r€al  origin  may  be, 
that  it  was  the  tahlil,  or  war-cry  of  the 
Prophet,  and  was  inscribed  on  the 
standard  of  Yacub-al-Mansur,  at  the 
battle  of  Alarcos. 

£g"  We  do  not  follow  strictly  the 
course  of  the  cicerone  porter. 

Ante-Sala  de  Embajadores  (Ante- 
Gallery  to  the  Hall  of  Ambassadors). — 


Sometimes  called  de  la  Barca  (of  the 
boat),  from  the  figure  of  the  room. 
This  is  a  very  elegant  and  well-pre« 
served  specimen.  The  azulejos  are  fine. 
At  each  side  of  the  entrance,  which  is 
very  elaborate,  is  a  small  niche ;  that 
on  the  right  has  a  pretty  poem,  in  all 
the  Oriental  gallantry.  The  roof  is 
at  present  (1895)  in  course  of  restora- 
tion. It  was  shattered  in  1590.  In 
the  angles  there  is  charming  stalac- 
tical  work,  with  miniature  pillars, 
Lilliputian  cupolas,  half- moons,  and 
the  words,  *  Blessing,'  'Salvation,' 
'God  alone  the  Conqueror,'  'Glory  be 
to  our  Lord  Abu  Ab-dillah.'  On  each 
side  are  recesses,  22  ft.  high,  9£  ft. 
wide,  and  supported  by  small  pillars, 
the  capitals  of  which  are  formed  by 
escutcheons. 

Sola  de  Embajadores  (Hall  of  Am- 
bassadors. — Is  the  largest  in  the  Al- 
hambra,  and  occupies  all  the  Tower  of 
Comares.  It  is  a  square  room,  37  ft 
by  75  ft.  high  to  the  centre  of  the 
dome.  This  was  the  grand  reception- 
room,  and  the  throne  of  the  sultan  was 
placed  opposite  the  entrance.  Observe 
the  azulejos,  nearly  4  ft.  high  all  round, 
the  colours  of  which  vary  at  intervals. 
Over  this  is  a  series  of  oval  medallions 
with  Cufic  inscriptions  interwoven  with 
flowers  and  leaves  ;  there  are  nine  win- 
dows, three  on  each  facade.  The  arte- 
sonado  is  very  fine,  and  rests  on  a 
wooden  cornice ;  the  ceiling,  of  alerce 
wood,  is  admirably  diversified  with 
inlaid  work  of  distinct  colours,  espe- 
cially white,  blue,  and  gold,  made  in 
the  shape  of  circles,  crowns,  and  stars,  a 
sort  of  imitation  of  the  vault  of  heaven. 
The  recesses  of  the  windows  are  small 
cabinets  in  themselves,  such  is  the 
thickness  of  the  walls.  The  shutters 
and  balconies  were  added  by  Charles  V., 
and  the  view  from  them  is  splendid. 
From  the  one  looking  on  the  Darro, 
Ayeshah    is    said    to    have  let  down 


GRANADA ALHAMBRA. 


183 


Boabdil  in  a  basket,  to  save  him  from 
her  rival  Ziraya's  relentless  vengeance, 
and  Charles  V.,  leaning  out  of  one,  is 
eaid  to  hare  exclaimed,  as  he  beheld 
the  glorious  panorama  spread  at  bis 
feet,   '  Ill-fated  the  man  who  lost  all 
this  I'    In  the  embrasures  of  the  two 
north  windows  there  may  be  studied 
the  finest  remnants  of  the  old  work 
In  the  whole  palace — the  best  inlaid 
azulejos,  the  richest  bits  of  bine,  ver- 
milion and  gold  colouring,  and  the  most 
delicate  column  caps.     Over  the  arch 
of  entrance,  and  between  the  ornaments, 
runs  the  inscription: — 
'  Glory  be  given  to  our 
lord,  Abul  Hachach.  May 
God  help  him  in  his  en- 
terprise.'  Androundtha 
niche  to  the  right  the  in- 
scription : — '  Praise  lo  the 
only  God.    I  will  remove 
upon  Yusnf  the  malefice 
of  the  evil  eye,'  with  five 
sentences: — 'Say,  I  flee 
to  the  Lord  of  the  rising 
i,  thanks  (be  given)  to 


God, 


'  Praia* 


God,' etc.  The  inscrip- 
tion round  the  one  on  the 
right  is  almost  identical. 
This  ball  is  also  called 
Sola  de  Comarss,  because 
its  peculiar  workman  ship 
resembled  that  at  Coina- 
rech  in  Persia,  and  the 
artists  employed  came 
purposely  from  that 
country.  The  present  roof 
stitute  for  the  original  of 
stalactite  work  in  stucco,  but  which 
fell  down  along  with  an  arch  made  of 
mother-of-pearl,  jasper,  and  porphyry. 
The  ceilings  of  the  window-recesses  arc 
plain,  of  inlaid  wood,  and  badly  re- 
stored. The  balconies  were  added  in 
1032.  Their  use  was  not  known  to 
the  Moors.     The  floor  was  of  beautiful 


alabaster,  and  it  is  said  there  was  an 
alabaster  fountain  in  the  centre.  Attho 
end  of  5th  century  there  was  a  partial 
restoration  of  the  gilding  and  painting. 
This  magnificent  hall,  the  work  of  Ibn- 
1-Ahmar,  is  higher,  more  solid  and 
grandiose  than  the  rest^  and  of  a  differ- 
ent period  in  the  style  and  epoch.  The 
walls  seem  to  be  covered  with  an  infinity 
of  guipures  placed  over  each  other. 

Polio  de  los  Letrnrs  (Court  of the  Lions.) 
— This  celebrated  portion  of  the  palace 
has  been  almost  completely  restored  by 
Si*.  Contreras  and  bis  successor,  with 


doubtful  ability.  Although  pi 
as  characteristics  the  moat  exquisite 
elegance  in  all  its  parts,  it  has  not  £he 
imposing,  majestic,  and  elevated  style  of 
the  Hall  of  Ambassadors,  and  Is  attri- 
buted to  other  architects.  It  was  built 
in  1377  by  Mohammed,  who,  after  being 
dethroned  by  Ismael,  was  a  second  time 
replaced  on  the  throne  with  the  aid  of 
Don  Pedro  the  Cruel,  wbo  murdered  ttie 


184 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


king,  his  former  ally,  at  Tablada,  close 
to  Seville.  According  to  Cean  Bermu- 
doz,  'Arquit.,' vol.  i.,  the  architect  was 
called  Aben  Concind.  It  is  neverthe- 
less a  perfect  model  of  Moorish  patio 
architecture.  Observe  those  open-work 
circular  galleries  to  keep  off  the  sun ; 
the  lightness  in  the  columns,  the  sym- 
metry in  the  proportions,  variety  in  the 
patterns,  and  filigree  -  worked  walls 
through  which  the  blue  heaven  is  seen, 
filling  the  interstices  with  colour  as 
if  it  were  painted.  The  court  is  an 
hypsethral  quadrilateral  oblong  of  126 
feet  (Spanish)  long  by  73  feet  wide, 
and  224  feet  high  under  the  galleries. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a  low  gallery, 
which  is  supported  on  124  white  marble 
columns,  not  counting  the  four  em- 
bedded in  the  inner  walls.  The  width 
between  the  walls  and  the  pillars  in 
the  galleries  is  74  feet.  The  pillars 
here  are  irregularly  placed ;  alternate- 
ly isolated  and  in  pairs.  A  pavilion 
projects  into  the  court  at  each  ex- 
tremity, most  elaborately  ornamented 
and  made  with  filigree  walls ;  the 
domed  roofs  are  very  light  and  of 
that  shape  so  poetically  and  justly 
called  by  those  sons  of  the  Arabs,  the 
Spaniards,  medias  naranjas;  they  are 
surmounted  by  a  spear  with  a  flow- 
ing horsehair,  surmounted  by  the  cres- 
cent. There  are  three  stalactite  arches 
on  each  side,  which  have  three  columns 
at  the  angles  and  two  single  ones  be- 
tween each  cluster.  The  ornamentation 
of  the  inner  walls  has  almost  all  disap- 
peared ;  and  the  beautiful  azulejos 
which  formed  the  dado,  some  of  the 
finest  of  the  building,  have  disap- 
peared, without,  it  is  to  be  feared, 
any  chance  of  their  being  replaced. 
Observe  the  effect  of  the  tiles,  coloured 
in  different  hues,  and  the  painted 
and  gilt  shafts  projecting,  and  called 
oanes.  The  capitals  are  of  different 
patterns,  and  were  coloured  and  gilt. 


The  irregularity  of  the  pillars  was  in- 
tended, and  the  result  of  study  of  effects. 
The  fringe  of  the  centre  arch  of  the 
court  is  formed  of  the  stalactite  bricks 
placed  radiating  to  the  centre,  supported 
by  a  charming  bracket,  which  is  a  beau- 
tiful example  of  the  constructive  idea 
carried  out  in  the  decoration  of  the  sur- 
face. The  design  of  the  *  lozenge'  in 
the  arches  is  most  judicious ;  it  is  so 
arranged  that  by  the  repetition  of  a 
single  tile,  two  or  three  patterns  grow 
out  of  the  combination.  The  capitals 
of  the  columns  show  various  transitions 
in  forms,  but  all  gradual,  and  the  con- 
structive idea  is  never  lost  sight  of. 
Over  the  capitals  is  the  Cufic  inscrip- 
tion, '  God  alone  the  Conqueror.'  The 
ornament  on  the  piers  contains  in  centre 
the  shield  of  the  founder,  surrounded 
by  the  word  *  Grace.'  The  main  lines 
of  the  pattern  are  admirably  adapted  for 
giving  height  to  the  piers.  The  genera] 
form  of  the  piers,  arches,  and  columns, 
is  most  graceful ;  the  mere  outline  of  the 
voids  and  solids  is  perfect  The  side 
arches  are  stilted,  and  struck  from  two 
centres,  yet  so  slightly  pointed  that 
they  are  only  just  sufficient  to  relieve 
them  from  the  compressed  appearance 
of  a  semicircular  arch.  The  middle  one 
is  also  from  two  centres. 

The  Fountain  of  Lions.  — In  the  centre 
of  the  court  is  the  celebrated  Fountain 
or  Tazza.  It  is  a  dodecagon  basin  104 
ft.  (Spanish)  in  diameter,  and  2  ft.  deep, 
from  which  springs  a  pedestal  support- 
ing a  second  tazza  4  ft.  in  diameter  and 
14  ft.  deep.  The  fountain  is  usually 
held  to  be  pure  Moorish  work,  but 
we  venture  to  think  that  originally 
there  was  only  the  lower  tazza,  which 
rests  on  the  lions,  and  was  at  a 
convenient  height  for  ablutions.  The 
workmanship  of  the  higher  tazza  is 
inferior,  and  the  imitation  of  the 
old  Arabic  designs  can  be  detected. 
The   present   marble   pavement  con- 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


185 


ceals  the  lower  portion  of  the  dado, 
and  is,  therefore,  now  on  a  higher  level 
than  it  was  originally,  even  if  it  be  the 
same ;  around  the  lower  tazza  runs  a 
poem  in  Tawil  metre  ;  many  of  the 
verses  were  copied  from  the  poem  writ- 
ten in  praise  of  the  founder  of  this  court, 
Mohammed  V.,  by  the  Wazir  Abu 
Abdil-lah  Mohamed  Ebn  Yusuf  Ebn 
Zemrec,  a  disciple  of  the  celebrated  his- 
torian Ebnul  Kathib. 

The  fountain  is  a  magnificent  ala- 
baster basin.  The  twelve  lions  must  be 
looked  upon  not  in  a  sculptural  way,  but 
heraldically,  as  emblems  of  strength, 
power,  courage.  The  lion  in  the  East 
was  a  sign  of  power,  and  was  always 
used  heraldically  by  the  Egyptians,  and 
rery  often  in  Spain.  They  are  in  white 
marble,  barbecued,  with  their  manes 
cut  like  the  scales  of  a  griffin.  They 
were  probably  the  work  of  Spanish 
prisoners  or  renegades.  According  to 
Marmol  and  ether  historians,  the  child- 
ren of  Abu  Hasen  by  Ayeshah  were 
all  beheaded  over  the  fountain  by  order 
of  their  father  (excepting  the  oldest, 
subsequently  Boabdil). 

Sola  de  los  Abencerrages  (Hall  of  the 
Abencerrages). — Derives  its  name  from 
a  legend,  according  to  which  Boabdil, 
the  last  king  of  Granada,  invited  the 
chiefs  of  this  illustrious  lino  of  the 
Beni-Serra,  better  known  as  the  Aben- 
cerrages, to  a  banquet,  and  had  them 
taken  out  one  by  one  after  the  feast, 
through  a  small  wicket,  to  the  foun- 
tain of  the  Court  of  lions,  where  they 
were  beheaded  ;  a  massacre  which  con- 
tributed to  his  ruin,  as  they  were  the 
main  support  of  his  kingdom,  and  had 
helped  to  place  him  on  his  throne.  The 
wicket,  which  had  beautiful  folding 
doors,  was  removed  in  1837,  and  partly 
destroyed  by  the  then  governor  of 
Alhambra.  The  dingy  ferruginous 
spots  on  the  marble  pavement  near  the 
fountain  are  said  by  the  cicerone  to  be 


stains  of  blood.  Others  assert  that 
they  were  murdered  here,  which  would 
be  an  Irish  way  of  killing  them  in  this 
room,  whilst  they  were  beheaded  in  the 
Court  of  Lions.  This  legend  has  no 
other  authority  than  a  '  romance, ' '  His- 
toria  de  las  Guerras  Civiies  de  Gra- 
nada.' That  several  of  the  Abencer- 
rages were  treacherously  murdered  in 
either  this  or  some  other  hall  is  certain, 
but  it  was  by  Abu  Hasen's  orders,  and 
not  Boabdil's ;  the  reason  being  that 
the  Abencerrages  had  sided  with  Aye- 
shah, and  the  pretext  that  one  of  them 
had  outraged  his  sister.  (See  Marmol, 
*  Rebellion  de  los  Moriscos, '  lib.  i.  cap. 
12;  'Hist,  de  Granada,'  by  Lafuente 
Alcantara,  vol.  iv.  etc.)  The  orna- 
mentation was  identical  with  that  of  the 
Hall  of  the  Two  Sisters ;  it  has  under- 
gone many  restorations.  Enter  by  an 
oval  door,  which  leads  into  a  very 
narrow  anteroom  with  a  small  door  at 
each  side,  communicating  with  inner 
halls,  and  on  the  arch  the  usual  inscrip- 
tion, '  There  is  no  conqueror  but  God, ' 
and  'Blessing,'  etc.,  'Glory  be  to  our 
lord  Abu  Abdil-lah.'  There  are  but  a 
few  inscriptions  here,  and  several  are 
out  of  the  poem  of  the  Hall  of  the 
Two  Sisters,  which  Lafuente  Alcantara 
('  Inscripciones  Arabes  de  Granada,'  vol. 
i.  p.  126)  thinks  must  have  been 
placed  there  when,  in  the  16th  century, 
this  hall  was  repaired  ;  it  had  given  way 
after  an  explosion  of  a  gunpowder  ma- 
gazine situated  close  to  San  Francisco. 
When  the  restoration  was  directed  by 
Alfonso  Berruguete,  at  the  time  several 
ornaments  belonging  to  other  parts  of 
the  palace  were  then  recast,  and  placed 
without  regard  to  their  original  desti- 
nation. Observe  how  exquisitely  the 
arch  form  gradually  grows  out  of  the 
shaft  of  the  column,  the  stalactite  roof 
crowning  this  hall,  and  the  penden- 
tives  of  the  two  arches  leading  into  the 
hall  and  those  over  the  alcoves.  The  roo* 


186 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


is  most  exquisite — the  blues,  brown, 
red,  and  gold,  are  most  effective ;  the 
green  at  the  sides  is  blue  decayed. 
With  the  back  to  the  wall,  the  view 
Aver  the  fountain  through  the  three 
arches  to  the  fountain  in  the  Court  of  the 
Lions  is  strikingly  beautiful.  The  hall 
a  perfect  square.  Its  cupola  or  dome  is 
very  lofty,  half  round  and  half  conical ; 
at  its  base  there  are  small  trellised  win- 
dows, behind  which  the  women  could 
hear  music  without  being  seen.  Many 
of  its  azulejos  are  of  Spanish  workman- 
ship, made  and  designed  by  Antonio 
Tenorio,  1536  ('  Archives  of  the  Al- 
hambra '). 

Solas  del  Tribunal  (Council  Hall  of 
.Justice). — On  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Patio  de  los  Leones  is  a  long  gallery, 
divided  into  alcoves,  or  divans,  con- 
nected with  each  other  and  called  del  Tri- 
bunal, from  the  doubtful  tradition  that 
the  khalif  used  to  give  audience  here,  or, 
more  likely,  treat  of  state  affairs.  In  the 
centre  one,  observe  the  six  fine  stalactite 
arches  rising  from  small  columns.  It  was 
restored  hi  1841.  Observe  the  medallions 
mixed  with  the  rest  of  Arab  patterns, 
bearing  the  badges  of  the  Catholic 
kings,  the  yoke  and  bundle  of  arrows, 
with  the  motto,  *  TarUo  monta.'  Three 
arches  lead  into  the  hall  of  the  Council 
Room,  15  feet  high.  The  Council  Room 
is  75  ft.  long  by  16  ft  wide,  and  the 
hall  is  divided  into  seven  compartments, 
including  the  alcoves  ;  the  three  facing 
the  doors  or  arches  are  square  (38  ft 
high  to  the  dome),  and  the  other  four 
quadrilateral  oblong  (16  ft.  long  by  8 
ft.  wide).  In  the  wall  of  the  hall,  op- 
posite to  the  entrance,  there  are  three 
more  that  lead  to  as  many  other  rooms. 
The  ornamentation  of  these  rooms  is 
very  minute,  and  more  delicate  and 
more  profusely  decorated  and  coloured 
than  any  other.  The  arch  opening 
into  the  central  saloon  is  perhaps  un- 
equalled  throughout  the  rest   of  the 


Alhambra ;  the  archivolt  spandrils  are 
very  elaborately  worked  and  splendid 
The  whole  seems  to  have  been  the  work 
of  the  Genii,  raised  in  a  night  by  the 
sounds  of  some  mysterious  soft  music, 
and  at  the  wand  of  a  magician — so 
light,  vapoury,  spider's-web-like,  gossa- 
mer work  it  is. 

After  the  conquest,  the  great  mosque 
of  the  Alhambra  was  purified  and  con- 
verted into  a  cathedral ;  but  on  the  edi- 
fice threatening  ruin  Philip  II.  had  the 
sacrament  removed  to  this  hall,  where 
it  was  kept  for  thirty  years  until  1603, 
when  the  Church  of  Sta.  Maria  de  la 
Alhambra  was  completed. 

The  open  camarines  or  recesses  in 
the  S.  wall  are  interesting,  and  here 
much  repairing  has  taken  place  in  very 
good  style  by  Sr.  Contreras.  The  ceil- 
ing is  oval.  In  the  domes  are  some 
very  curious  paintings.  The  ceiling  of 
the  central  recess  or  alcove  is  the  best ; 
the  background  is  gilt  and  studded 
with  stars.  At  the  extremity  are  two 
escutcheons  and  shields,  red  ground 
traversed  by  a  barre  or.  In  the  centre 
are  painted  ten  Moors  squatting  on 
cushions,  with  long  beards,  their  heads 
covered  up  in  hoods,  and  the  hand 
leaning  on  the  al-fange,  or  double- 
edged  Arabic  sword.  Much  has  been 
said  and  discussed  about  these  paint- 
ings— who  painted  them  ?  when  ?  whom 
are  they  intended  to  represent?  who 
was  the  artist?  Marmol,  'Guerrade 
Granada,'  book  i.  pt  1,  says  that  Bal- 
haxix  (Mohammed  II.)  built  the  Alham- 
bra, and  that  the  buildings  were  greatly 
added  to  by  *  diez  sucesores  suyos,  cuyos 
retratos  se  ven  en  una  sala'  ('ten  of 
his  successors,  whose  portraits  may  be 
seen  in  one  of  the  halls ').  Argote  de 
Mollinas,  'Paseos,' vol.  ii.  p.  164,  and 
several  other  writers  who  lived  shortly 
after  the  conquest  of  Granada,  confirm 
this  point,  and  in  the  archives  of  the 
Alhambra,  even  those  relating  to  th« 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


187 


1 5th  century,  this  room  is  always  styled 
'  el  Cuarto  de  los  Retratos '  (the  Hall 
of  the  Portraits).  According  to  the 
French  writer  Gachard,  there  is  no 
doubt  that  John  Van  Eyck  went  to  the 
Alhambra  about  1428,  accompanying 
the  embassy  sent  to  Portugal  by  the 
Duke  of  Burgundy  (whose  valet  he 
was),  to  solicit  the  hand  of  Isabella, 
the  daughter  of  Joam  I.  of  Portugal. 
('  Rathgeber,  Annalen,'  p  86 ;  Raczinski, 
'  Les  Arts  en  Portugal,'  pp.  195, 196.) 
Gachard  says  he  went  to  the  Alham- 
bra, and  painted  the  Moorish  kings. 
It  might  be  some  copy  of  this  now  lost 
picture  made  by  some  artist  of  the 
time,  Maestro  Rogel  (Roger  of  Bruges), 
a  scholar  of  Van  Eyck,  or  another. 

Mr.  Owen  Jones  is  in  favour  of  their 
being  Moorish  work,  from  the  purely 
Moorish  ornaments  introduced  in  the 
paintings,  and  the  details  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  domes.  (Owen  Jones, 
*  Plans,  Elevations,'  etc.,  folio ;  London, 
1842,  plates  46,  47,  48,  and  50.)  Mr. 
Ford  ('Handbook,'  p.  311)  is  of  opinion 
that  they  were  by  some  Christian  rene- 
gade, and  that  the  process  employed 
was  common  to  Byzantine  painters. 
Viardot  ('  Les  Musees  d'Espagne ;'  Paris, 
1860,  pp.  200-205)  believes  them  to  be 
posterior  to  the  conquest  of  Granada. 
'  These  paintings  are  of  bright  colours, 
but  in  flat  tints,  and  were  first  drawn 
in  outline  in  a  brown  colour.  They  are 
painted  on  skins  of  animals  sewn  to- 
gether, nailed  to  the  wooden  dome,  a 
fine  coat  of  gypsum  forming  the  surface 
to  receive  the  painting.  The  orna- 
ments on  the  gold  ground  are  in  re- 
lief.' (Owen  Jones,  'Alhambra.')  It 
may  be  that  they  were  placed  after  the 
conquest,  but  certainly  they  were  never 
the  work  of  Moors.  They  have  seldom 
departed  from  the  preceptsof  the  Koran, 
prohibiting  the  representation  of  living 
subjects,  especially  of  man,  and  the  few 
examples  to  the  contrary  that  arc  ascribed 


to  them  were  most  likely  not  their  work, 
such  as  the  sarcophagus  found  at  the 
foot  of  the  Torre  de  la  Vela,  the  lions 
in  the  court,  etc.  The  ceiling  of  the 
room  on  the  left  represents  a  field  with 
a  lake,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a 
fountain  with  two  basins,  with  trees, 
woods,  and  birds,  and  two  damsels 
gazing  on  the  water.  In  the  wood  a  boar- 
hunt  is  represented,  and  opposite  a  castle 
with  turrets,  out  of  which  two  ladies, 
followed  by  dueiias,  are  seen  isssuing, 
to  receive  the  homage  of  two  knights. 
In  the  ceiling  to  the  right  is  represented 
a  castle  with  towers,  and  from  the  high- 
est one  a  lady,  with  the  unavoidable 
duena,  is  entreating  two  knights  who 
are  fighting  to  cease  their  sport  Oppo- 
site the  castle  stands  a  woman  holding 
a  couchant  lion  with  a  chain.  Close  to 
her  is  an  enchanter  who  holds  a  lady  in 
captivity,  and  a  mailed  knight  or  cham- 
pion coming  to  free  her.  In  the  extreme 
opposite  of  the  ceiling  there  are  two 
castles  with  ladies  leaning  out  of  the 
windows,  apparently  much  distressed, 
and  at  the  foot  of  the  castle  is  another 
lady  sitting  on  a  cushion,  and  pointing 
to  the  cases  in  a  chess-board.  Not  far 
are  two  knights,  one  wounding  a  deer 
and  the  second  some  wild  beast.  There 
are  several  dogs,  wild  beasts,  and  fan- 
tastical birds.  Besides,  Moorish  kings 
might  have  employed  some  Christian 
painter,  as  the  Grand  Signor  did  Gentilo 
Bellini,  for  they  were  not  always  at  war 
with  Christians.  For  ourselves  we  are 
of  opinion  that  these  paintings  were  the 
handiwork  of  Italian  artists  towards 
the  end  of  the  14th  century,  and  it  is 
not  difficult  to  piece  the  whole  series 
into  a  consecutive  representation.  (See 
'Sketches  in  Spain,'  pp.  284,  285.) 

The  Vase.  —  The  celebrated  vase 
of  the  Alhambra  stands  now  in  a 
corner  of  the  Sala  de  las  Dos  Her- 
manas.  This  most  splendid  jar  or 
vase  (Jarron)   is  enamelled  in   blue, 


188 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA, 


white,  and  gold  :  the  companion  was 
broken  during  the  governor  Montilla's 
time,  and  the  fragments  sold  to  a  French 
lady.  It  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
Moorish  ceramic  art,  and  dates  1320, 
belonging  to  the  first  period  of  the 
history  of  Moorish  porcelain.  It  is  4 
ft.  3  in.  high.  The  ground  is  white, 
and  the  ornaments  blue.  In  the  middle 
are  two  animals,  more  like  llamas  than 
camels.  It  was  found  full  of  gold.  The 
inscription  has  been  differently  inter- 
preted, but  all  the  commentaries  made 
are  sheer  nonsense.  The  only  inscrip- 
tion is  'Eternal  Salvation,'  repeated 
very  often.  Here  would  be  another 
subject  of  controversy — were  the  ani- 
mals painted  by  Moorish  artists  ? 

Sepulchral  Slabs. — Note  also  in  this 
museum  the  two  sepulchral  slabs  of  the 
kings  Yusuf  III.  and  Mohammed  II. 
Four  only  were  found  in  the  Pantheon 
or  tomb-house  of  the  Moorish  kings, 
which  was  situated  not  far  from  the 
Court  of  Lions,  and  close  to  the  actual 
habitations  of  the  curate  of  the  Alham- 
bra.  They  were  found  in  1574  (the  two 
others  of  Ismael  and  Yusuf  I.  have 
disappeared),  were  placed  perpendicu- 
larly, and  the  letters  gilt  on  a  blue 
ground.  On  one  side  was  a  long  inscrip- 
tion in  prose  (which  has  been  copied, 
though  somewhat  erroneously,  it  is  said, 
by  Al.  del  Castilo),  and  on  the  other 
the  defunct  monarch's  eulogium  in  verse. 
The  inscription  of  Yusuf  III.  is  much 
deteriorated. 

The  slab  of  Mohammed  II.  is  of  white 
marble,  and  is  much  better  preserved. 
1 1  was  formerly  placed  over  the  fountain 
in  the  garden  of  the  Adarves.  It  is 
inferior  in  the  poetical  sentiment.  A 
sort  of  sarcophagus  with  a  basso-relievo 
that  was  found  in  the  gardens  has  been 
removed  hither  too  ;  the  subject  seems 
to  be  a  fight  between  lions  and  deer, 
done  in  the  most  rough,  coarse  way. 
We  also  think  them  not  to  be  Moorish 


work,  and  that,  notwithstanding  thfc 
Moorish  ornamentation,  that  they  were 
probably  found  in  some  Wisigothic 
ruins,  and  may  have  formed  part  of  a 
retablo. 

Sala  de  las  Dos  Hermanas  (Hall  of 
the  Two  Sisters),  formerly  called  De 
las  Losas  (slabs). — The  explosion  of  the 
gunpowder  magazine  already  referred  to 
injured  this  hall  as  well  as  that  of  the 
Tribunal,  destroying  in  both  the  beau- 
tiful glass  windows,  which  were  painted 
'con  muchas  istorias  y  annas  reales.' 
(Archives. )  This  suite  of  rooms  derives 
its  name  from  two  equal-sized  white 
slabs  which  form  a  portion  of  the  pave- 
ment, and  are  called  '  The  Sisters.' 
Before  entering  into  this  most  beautiful 
hall,  observe  the  arch  with  the  white 
marble  on  the  sides,  and  on  it  '  There 
is  no  conqueror  but  God,'  etc.  This 
arch  leads  into  a  narrow  ante-chamber; 
on  the  sides  are  small  doors,  opening  on 
inner  rooms.  The  second  arch  is  also 
oval.  On  the  impost,  archivolt,  etc., 
are  several  diminutive  shields  with  the 
usual  motto.  Everything  here  ought 
to  be  attentively  examined,  for  all  is 
exquisite.  The  pavement  rises  gradually. 
Observe  the  effect  from  the  Court  of 
Lions  towards  the  Mirador  of  Lindaraja. 
In  the  four  walls  of  this  hall  there  are 
arches,  one  at  the  entrance,  two  on  the 
sides  over  the  alcoves  (al  hamis,  Arabice) 
or  recesses  in  the  wall,  and  a  fourth 
leading  to  the  square  hall  leading  to  the 
Mirador  de  Lindaraga.  On  the  walls 
the  azulejos  rise  to  a  certain  height, 
forming  rich  alicatado  work  ;  it  is  de- 
corated at  intervals  with  the  shield  of 
Ibn-1-Ahmar.  Over  each  arch  there  i? 
a  latticed  window,  with  vroodenjalousie 
(a  most  appropriate  name),  belonging 
to  the  upper  floor.  There  is  a  fountain 
in  the  middle.  The  stalactite  roof  is 
most  wonderful ;  'nearly  6000  pieces,' 
says  Owen  Jones,  'enter  into  its  con-, 
struction,  and  though  they  are  mostly  of 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


189 


plaster,  strengthened  here  and  there 
with  pieces  of  reed,  no  part  of  the  palace 
is,  in  the  present  day,  in  a  more  perfect 
state  of  preservation.'  It  is  a  profusion 
of  vaults,  miniature  domes,  most  rich 
and  elaborate.  This  formed  a  portion 
of  the  private  apartments  of  the  wives 
and  slaves  of  the  khalif.  On  the  al- 
coves on  each  side  were  divans  and 
couches ;  but  it  was  principally  destined 
for  the  khalif  s  wives  and  slaves.  This 
hall  abounds  with  inscriptions,  all  al- 
lusive, and  of  a  character  suited  to  the 
dwelling  of  the  black-eyed  sultanas. 
Mr.  Owen  Jones  has  copied  most,  but 
omitted  unintentionally  the  eight  me- 
dallions between  the  sixteen  circles  on 
the  wall.  The  last  medallion  is  a  re- 
petition, as  the  anterior  has  been  de- 
stroyed. 

We  omit  this  poem,  as  well  as  the  rest, 
the  beauty  of  which  lies  rather  in  the 
musical  sounds  and  words,  than  in  feel- 
ing or  thought. 

Corrector,  Antesala  del  Mirador  de 
Lvnda/raja  (leading  to  the  Mirador  of 
Lindaraja). — The  arch  leading  to  this 
hall  has  an  inscription  in  African  char- 
acters, and  two  niches  on  the  sides. 
This  room  is  oblong,  and  has  a  pretty 
stalactite  roof,  with  thirteen  diminutive 
cupolas.  In  the  wall  in  -front  are  two 
ajimez  windows,  supported  by  marble 
and  stucco  columns. 

Mirador  de  Lindaraja  (from  mvrar, 
mirari,  to  see,  to  admire,  to  look  on, 
or  out),  a  boudoir  of  the  sultana.  It  is 
a  perfect  square,  and  looks  on  the  gar- 
den of  the  same  name.  There  are  three 
ajimez  windows.  The  cornice  is  com- 
posed of  small  columns,  arches,  niches, 
etc. :  the  frieze  is  charming ;  the  arte- 
sonado  ceiling  peculiar  in  its  construc- 
tion. 

Patio  de  la  Reja. — On  the  left  of  the 
hall,  between  the  Mirador  and  Hall  of 
the  Two  Sisters,  is  a  door,  which  leads 
through  a  modernised  corridor  to  some 


rooms  repaired  and  modernised  by 
Charles  V.,  painted  by  several  artists, 
and  whitewashed  when  Philip  V.  was 
in  Granada.  There  are  the  initials  K. 
and  I.,  Charles  and  Isabella.  Turning 
on  the  left,  and  through  another  cor- 
ridor, we  arrive  at  a  small  patio  called 
de  la  Reja  (of  the  railing),  so  called 
from  the  iron  one  placed  here,  and  rest- 
ing on  iron  pillars.  It  was  placed  here 
about  the  year  1639,  and  it  is  thought 
that  in  the  adjoining  room  the  silver 
of  the  kings  was  kept  when  they  lived 
in  the  Alhambra.  Opposite  are  the 
Bath-rooms ;  on  the  left,  the  Court  of 
Lindaraja;  on  the  right,  the  Hall  de 
las  Ninfas. 

Sala  de  los  Baflos  (Bath-rooms). — 
This  suite  of  apartments  must  have 
been  considerably  more  numerous, 
though  they  were  the  private  baths  for 
the  sultan  and  royal  family.  Their 
system  of  bathing  was  what  we  now 
call  Turkish  baths,  and  the  way  that 
the  pipes  and  apparatus  themselves 
were  laid  down  would  give  us  no  mean 
idea  of  the  proficiency  of  the  Moors  in 
these  matters.  The  first  room  is  called 
Cuarto  de  las  Camas,  6  del  Descanso 
{Repose),  Chamber  of  the  Couches,  or  of 
Rest.  It  has  been  very  ably  restored 
by  Sr.  Contreras.  It  is  square,  with 
four  marble  pillars  forming  a  gallery  all 
round,  and  on  the  sides  two  alhamis,  or 
alcoves,  formed  by  two  arches,  which 
are  supported  by  columns.  Within  the 
alcove  was  a  raised-up  couch,  upon 
which  the  cushions  were  placed.  In 
the  middle  a  fountain.  On  the  walls, 
over  the  azulejos,  the  badge  with  Charles 
V.'s  motto,  ' plus  ultra.  *  At  each  of  the 
four  angles  a  small  door,  arched,  lead- 
ing to  the  bath-rooms.  They  were 
made  in  Abu  Abdilla's  time,  and  pro- 
bably about  1303  to  1306,  as  the  in- 
scriptions allude  to  the  hopes  that  God 
may  grant  him  a  speedy  and  near  vic- 
tory.   The  upper  portion  is  formed  by 


190 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


four  arches  to  each  wall,  connected  by 
railings.  There  are  sixteen  windows, 
over  these  a  wooden  jalousie,  and  over 
this  again  a  superb  artesonado  ceiling. 
The  upper  gallery  was  used  for  musi- 
cians, who  played  and  sang  whilst  the 
bathers  were  resting  on  the  couches 
after  being  shampooed.  This  leads  to 
some  small  rooms ;  the  first,  Ba&o  de 
los  Ninos,  used  by  the  Sultan's  children. 
They  are  each  about  8  ft.  long  by  6  ft. 
wide.  In  each  is  a  small  recess  in  the 
wall,  like  a  cabinet,  formed  by  a  horse- 
shoe arch,  and  in  it  a  bath  in  white 
marble.  Over  this,  on. the  wall,  a  niche 
where  to  place  the  slippers,  etc.,  and 
under  it  the  pipes.  From  these  you 
pass  to  another,  13  ft.  long  by  8  wide, 
which  serves  as  an  antechamber  leading 
to  a  square  one.  Here  at  each  side  are 
alcoves,  and  in  front  a  door  leading  to 
the  principal  bath-room.  There  are 
two  fine  large  baths  here  ;  one  is  10  ft. 
long,  54  wide  (across),  with  two  stop- 
pers to  warm  the  water ;  the  other  one 
is  square,  and  all  have  niches.  This 
room  communicated  formerly  with 
others  where  the  water  was  heated, 
etc.  The  pavement  of  all  these  rooms 
is  of  white  Macael  marble.  The  roof 
was  lighted  up  with  lumoreras,  louvres, 
or  port-holes,  cut  into  the  shape  of 
stars.  The  domes  of  the  Krara'-rahs  in 
the  East  have  similar  apertures.  The 
recesses  formed  by  the  columns  had 
probably  divans,  where  the  manipula- 
tions were  performed.  These  were 
probably  the  hot  and  cold  baths,  called 
in  the  East  Hau'-a-feeyehs. 

Sola  de  los  Secreios  (Chamber  of  Se- 
crets), which  ought  rather  to  have 
been  called  Chamber  of  Indiscretions. 
Applying  the  ear  to  an  opening  made 
at  each  angle,  one  can  hear  what  is  said 
at  the  other  extremity,  however  low 
spoken.  This  is  an  acoustical  device, 
produced  by  the  shape  of  the  ceiling, 
which  forms  an  elliptical  figure  j  thus 


all  sonorous  sounds,  spreading  from  a 
focus,  are  reflected  to  another  one  by 
the  hollow  walls.  There  is  another 
similar  secrets-room  near  the  Myrtle 
Court. 

Jardin  de  Lindaraja  (Garden  of  Lin- 
daraja). — A  small  garden.  In  the 
middle  is  a  fine  fountain  with  a  basin 
10  ft  diameter ;  from  its  centre  a  high 
pedestal  springs,  which  supports  a  tazza, 
which  has  the  shape  of  a  shell ;  its 
workmanship  is  Arab,  and  the  inscrip- 
tion around  it  partly  worn  out. 

All  round  this  garden  is  a  gallery, 
supported  by  fifteen  Arab  columns  on 
two  sides,  and  on  the  third  by  machones 
of  brick.  In  this  court  is  a  window 
with  a  superb  look-out  on  the  woods  of 
the  Alhambra,  Generalife,  Darro,  etc. 

Under  the  Salon  de  Comares  is  the 
chamber  called  '  de  las  Niufas,'  not  now 
shown,  which  used  to  contain  some 
statues  of  nymphs  ascribed  to  the  artists 
brought  by  Charles  V.  for  his  palace 
here,  and  a  medallion  of  Carrara  marble 
representing  Jupiter  metamorphosed 
into  a  swan,  etc.,  and  two  fauns. 

Close  by  is  a  small  room,  from  which 
the  ascent  is  made  to  the  Royal  Chapel, 
rarely  shown.  The  ceiling  is  inlaid, 
the  colouring  fine.  Some  suppose  that 
the  window  on  the  right  served  to  let 
down  Boabdil,  and  not  that  in  the 
Hall  of  Ambassadors,  which  is  higher. 
The  Capilla  Real,  which  was  used  by 
the  Catholic  kings,  is  a  mixture  of  Arab 
and  Christian  styles,  of  Koranic  signs 
mixed  with  the  Catholic  ones,  and 
shields,  etc.  Over  the  altar  is  a  picture 
by  Rincon,  the  Adoration  of  the  Kings  ; 
at  each  side  an  image  representing 
Vice.  The  windows  look  on  some 
grounds  and  paltry  hovels,  which  once 
were  part  of  the  palace,  and  preserve 
here  and  there  some  vestiges  of  past 
magnificence. 

Tocador  de  la  Reina  (the  Queen's 
Boudoir). — A  heavy  gallery,  built  by 


GRAIN  ADA— ALHAMBRA. 


19J 


Charles  V.,  leads  to  this  room.  It  is 
9  ft.  square.  In  a  corner  of  the  room 
is  a  marble  slab,  drilled  with  sixteen 
holes  to  admit  perfumes  whilst  the  sul- 
tana was  at  her  boudoir  ;  but  we  rather 
think  that  it  was  a  sort  of  calorifire 
contrived  by  the  chilly  Charles  V.  The 
walls  are  fresco-painted  with  subjects, 
views  of  sea-ports ;  the  frieze  is  com- 
posed of  sphinxes,  genii,  winged  heads 
of  serpents,  etc.  etc  There  are  nine 
windows,  and  between  each  are  in- 
different paintings,  such  as  the  Fall  of 
Phaeton,  etc.  The  artesonado  ceiling 
is  pyramidal,  with  inlaid  wood  painted 
and  gilt ;  round  are  several  Arab  pil- 
lars, much  deteriorated,  and  half  block- 
ed up  by  Charles  V.  There  are  also 
several  figures  painted,  representing 
Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity,  Justice,  etc. 
The  initials  F.  and  Y.  are  the  mono- 
grams of  Philip  V.  and  Isabelle.  The 
frescoes  are  by  Bartholomew  Rajos, 
whose  brother  Pedro  has  left  some  works 
at  Granada,  and  by  Alfonso  Perez  and 
Juan  de  la  Fuente.  This  room  was 
used  by  the  Arabs  as  a  mihr&b,  or  ora- 
tory, for  the  evening  prayers.  The 
tower  is  lofty.  The  view  from  it  is 
very  grand — the  Generalife  with  its 
gardens  and  white  sparkling  buildings, 
the  river  Darro  and  its  banks  lined 
with  poplars,  the  verdant  Vega,  and 
snow-clad  Sierra  Nevada. 

La  Mezquiia  (the  Mosque). — Near  the 
entrance  is  an  elaborate  and  beautiful 
niche.  This  mosque  was  converted  into 
a  chapel  by  Charles  V. ;  a  great  many 
injuries  and  sad  restorations  and  changes 
have  taken  place.  The  walls  have  been 
whitewashed,  the  hall  reduced  almost 
to  half  its  former  size  by  a  railing,  and 
the  floor  considerably  raised.  The 
carved  roof  is  exquisite,  resembling 
tortoise-shell  work,  and  gilt ;  it  was 
repainted  by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 
Near  the  entrance,  on  the  right,  is  the 
exquisite  niche  in  which  the  Koran  was 


deposited.  The  inscription  on  the  sides 
is  taken  from  the  7th  Sura  of  the  Koran, 
versicle  204  :  'Be  not  one  of  the  negli- 
gent. '  The  altar  is  heavy,  and  placed 
in  the  middle.  The  floor  of  the  mosque 
has  been  lowered  about  2  ft.,  with  a 
view  to  obtain  height  for  the  raised 
gallery  or  pew.  The  azulejos  are  very 
fine,  and  run  up  the  walls  about  5  ft 
high;  the  inscriptions  are  only  the  often- 
repeated  verses  of 

The  glory  is  God's ;  the  power  is  God's ;  the 
empire  is  God's. 

Between  the  azulejos,  '  There  is  no  con- 
queror but  God, '  and  the  shields  of  the 
kings  of  Granada,  bearing  the  above 
motto.  The  capitals  of  the  choir  pil- 
lars were  gilt  and  painted  by  Prado  in 
1631. 

Patio  de  la  Mtzquita  (Mosque). — Ol 
the  right  of  this  patio  is  a  sort  of  portico 
or  atrium,  formed  by  three  arches, 
which  are  supported  by  marble  columns, 
with  a  door  leading  to  the  corridor 
communicating  with  the  mosque.  This 
court,  with  its  lovely  ornamentation, 
has  been  carefully  restored  by  Sr. 
Contreras.  It  was  built  by  Mohammed 
V.,  as  the  verse  on  the  wooden  frieze 
under  the  roof  has  it,  which  must  for- 
merly have  gone  round  the  whole  court. 
Note  especially  the  decoration  of  the 
facade  and  cornice,  the  windows,  and 
the  column  capitals.  Originally  there 
was  a  fountain  in  the  centre. 

New-discovered  Hall. — A  hall  called 
Sala  de  los  Blasones,  or  Hall  of  the 
Shields  or  Escutcheons,  because  it  is 
decorated  with  several  shields  with 
initials,  has  been  lately  discovered. 
The  walls  were  whitewashed,  thus  con- 
cealing the  former  Arabic  work,  and  are 
being  restored ;  the  plaster  has  been 
taken  down,  and  the  wonderful  orna- 
mentation is  now  revealed.  Its  former 
stalactical  roof  and  ornamentation  are 
of  the  work  called  Comarragia  (that  of. 
Hall  of  Ambassadors),  and  are  now  being 


192 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


extricated  out  of  the  modern  roof  which 
already  existed  in  Philip  V.'s  time.  It 
was  probably  used  for  festivities,  or  as 
a  dining-room.  The  banqueting-hall  in 
the  East  was  always  near  a  court  and 
garden  (compare  Esther  vii.  7,  8). 

Minor  Curiosities  within  the  circuit 
of  the  Alhambra.  — Around  the  walls  are 
several  towers  still  extant,  but  mostly 
going  fast  to  ruin ;  some  deserve  very 
close  examination  from  their  beautiful 
workmanship.  Ask  for  a  noteworthy 
statue  of  Paris.  According  to  some, 
it  is  a  Roman  statue ;  according  to 
others,  it  was  made  and  destined  for 
the  palace  of  Charles  V.  There  is  also 
a  pillar,  with  the  Latin  inscription, 
'Cornelias  L.  F. ;  Cornelianie;  P. 
Valerius  Lucanus.  Uxori  indulgen- 
tissima?,  D.D.  L.D.  O.D.*  It  was  pro- 
bably over  a  Roman  tomb,  and  dedi- 
cated, as  it  runs,  by  one  Valerius  Lucan 
to  his  most  indulgent  wife,  Cornelia. 
Before  these  we  must  mention  the 
parish  church  of  Sta.  Maria  de  la  Al- 
hambra. It  was  built  in  1581  by  a 
Burgalese  architect,  Juan  de  Vega,  and 
was  finished  in  1583.  It  was  built 
for  Philip  II.,  and  it  is  supposed  Juan 
de  Herrera  was  not  a  stranger  to  the 
general  plan.  On  the  S.  end,  let  into 
the  wall,  is  a  slab  of  Macael  marble  with 
a  Gothic  inscription  referring  to  the  con- 
secration of  three  churches  built  in  the 
times  of  the  kings  Viterico  and  Recared. 
This  church  was  built  on  the  site  of  the 
great  mosque  which  was  destroyed  (fell 
down)  in  time  of  Philip  II.  The 
mosque  was  built  by  Mohammed  Abu 
Abdallah  III.  in  1308,  and  Ibn-ul- 
Eattib  describes  it  thus : 

'  It  is  ornamented  with  mosaic  work  and.  ex- 
quisite tracery  of  the  most  beautiful  and  intri- 
cate patterns,  intermixed  with  silver  flowers 
and  graceful  arches,  supported  by  innumerable 
pillars  of  the  finest  polished  marble*  (Gay- 
angos). 

The  sultan  had  consecrated  to  it  part 
of  the  taxes  paid  by  Jews  and  Chris- 


tians, and  had  sold  several  estates 
to  make  a  rent  for  it — (Casiri,  *  BibL 
Arabico-Hispana.')  In  Al  Kallet,  par. 
5,  Mah.  III.,  quoted  by  Lafuente  Al- 
cantara. The  Convent  of  San  Franciscot 
now  secularised,  is  not  far  from  this, 
and  was  the  first  built  after  the  con- 
quest by  Talavera,  the  confessor  of 
Isabella,  in  1492.  At  their  death,  the 
bodies  of  the  Catholic  kings  were  first 
placed  here  until  removed,  in  1525,  to 
the  Capilla  Real.  There  were  gardens 
here,  and  the  bath-houses  of  the  Moorish 
princes. 

Fortress. — The  walled  circuit  formed 
by  the  fortress  of  the  Alhambra  is  the 
highest  in  the  capital;  it  is  2690  ft. 
(Spanish)  long  by  730  ft  in  its  widest 
part.  The  average  thickness  of  the 
walls  is  5  ft.  and  the  height  27  ft.  In 
the  walls  there  are  at  intervals  turrets, 
which  begin  at  the  Torre  de  la  Vela, 
follow  the  Adarves,  Gate  of  Justice, 
Tower  of  Prisons,  Tower  of  the  Siete 
Suelos  (where  the  door  is  said  to  exist,  but 
cannot  be  seen,  through  which  Boabdil 
sallied  to  meet  the  Catholic  kings), 
Torre  of  the  Water,  Towers  of  Catholic 
Kings,  of  Los  Picos,  Infanta,  Comares, 
the  circular  cubo  tower  of  Homenage 
and  the  Quebrada,  and  that  of  the  Ar- 
moury close  to  the  Vela.  The  French 
on  withdrawing  exploded  great  part  of 
the  fortress,  especially  that  towards 
the  Generalife. 

The  walls  and  towers  are  niade  of 
chinarro  (flint,  earth,  and  lime),  which 
become  like  stone  under  that  petrifying 
baking  sun.  Not  a  less  curious  por- 
tion is  the  subterraneous  Alhambra, 
full  of  corridors,  chambers,  etc. ,  which 
served  the  princes  as  ways  of  escape 
during  the  often-occurring  intrigues  and 
other  dangers  of  war  and  faction. 

Towers. — De  las  Damas,  or  del  JFVm- 
cipe,  built  by  the  Sultan  Ismael.  This 
tower  was  presented  to  the  nation  by  its 
late  German  owner.  Itretainsitsmirorfor 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


193 


intact,  with  some  very  lovely  decora- 
tion. Visit,  close  by,  the  tiny  mosque 
where  some  say  that  Jusuf  I. ,  the  chief 
founder  of  the  Alhambra,  was  murdered 
at  his  prayers.  Note  here  a  very  per- 
fect Arabic  inscription,  formerly  placed 
over  the  entrance  of  the  Mint ;  also  two 
Assyrian  lions,  brought  from  the  same 
place,  and  the  coat  of  arms  of  the  first 
Christian  proprietor,  Astasio  de  Braca- 
monte.  Torre  de  las  Infantas:  once 
the  residence  of  the  Moorish  princesses. 
Beautiful  decorations ;  machicolated 
roof,  and  portico  leading  into  a  pretty 
gallery  ;  two  arches,  with  a  slender  col- 
umn between  them,  are  exquisitely  orna- 
mented; poor  in  inscriptions :  one  runs 
thus : — '  Glory  be  to  our  lord  the  Sultan 
Abu  Abdillah,  the  contented  with  God.' 
Torre  de  la  Cautiva  (Captive). — 
So  called  because  it  was,  doubtfully,  for 
some  time  the  residence  of  the  beauti- 
ful Christian  prisoner,  Dona  Isabel  de 
Solis,  afterwards  the  favourite  sultana 
of  Abn  Hasen,  who  called  her  the 
Morning  Star,  '  Tsorayya,'  or  '  Zoraya* 
(the  word  in  Arabic  rather  signifies  'the 
Pleiades'  than  any  determined  star. — 
'  Iscripciones  de  Granada,'  p.  176. 
Observe  the  slender  arches  and  a  deli- 
cate tarkish.  The  central  chamber  of 
this  tower  possesses  some  of  the  best 
azulejos,  and  most  delicate  and  delicately 
coloured  ornamentation  of  the  whole 
Alhambra.  The  style  is  that  called 
'  Comarragia,'  of  which  the  Hall  of 
Ambassadors  is  a  fine  specimen,  and  it 
was  most  probably  (a  presumption 
based  on  the  adoption  of  this  style  and 
the  inscription)  erected  by  Abul-Had- 
jaj-Yusuf,  7th  king  of  the  Beni-Nasr 
dynasty.  The  greater  portion  has  been 
well  restored  by  Sr.  Contreras.  It  is 
square,  has  three  windows  and  one  door. 
On  the  portico  are  four  inscriptions  of 
the  usual  short  sentences.  On  the 
walls  forming  the  four  angles  are  other 
inscriptions. 


On  another  wall  may  be  read  the 
114th  Sura,  wherein  the  dogma  of  the 
unity  of  God  is  opposed  to  that  of  the 
Holy  Trinity.  (In  the  coins  of  the 
Khalifs  of  the  East  and  Spain,  until 
the  period  of  the  Almoravides,  this 
same  legend  is  found,  which  constitutes 
one  of  the  fundamental  dogmas  of  the 
Mussulman  religion. ' 

This  tower  must  have  been  built 
about,  or  rather  after,  1325.  The 
captive  might  have  been  the  fair  Chris- 
tian that  Abul  Walid  Ismael  (who 
died  1325)  carried  off  from  the  harems 
of  Mohammed  Abn  Ismael,  king  of 
Algeciras,  at  the  siege  of  Martoa. 

Visit  also  the  Torre  de  los  Picos, 
guarding  the  Puerta  de  Hierro,  and, 
some  distance  from  the  Alhambra  but 
intimately  connected  with  its  story,  the 

Quarto  Heal,  in  the  huerta  which 
once  belonged  to  the  Convent  of  San 
Domingo.  The  exterior  is  solem  n ,  plain, 
and  severe,  as  are  all  Moorish  palaces  ; 
the  inside  is  a  square  room,  lofty  and 
spacious,  which  was  the  secluded  palace 
to  which  the  Granadine  kings  resorted 
for  the  Rhamadan  or  fasting  period, 
and  the  inscriptions  seem  to  confirm 
this  presumption  ;  much  deteriorated. 
It  is  private  property,  and  an  endeavour 
is  being  made  to  repair  it  well.  The 
entrance  is  by  an  arch  very  well  pre- 
served, and  upon  its  jambs  on  the  azu- 
lejos (left  and  right)  there  is  a  compli- 
cated and  showy  effect  of  white,  green, 

and  purple. 

See  also  four  exquisitely  decorated  arches, 
above  which  were  as  many  windows,  now 
filled  up;  beautifully  inlaid  roof;  charming 
azulejo  columns ;  and  the  arched  alcove  with 
its  pretty  window.  The  white  tiles  with  golden 
scroll  must  be  observed,  as  being  exceptions 
to  the  rule. 

Generalife. — Jennatu-l'-arif,  Ara- 
bice,  the  Garden  of  the  Architect 

(Cards,  to  visit  the  house  and  gardens,  at  the 
Casa  de  los  Tiros,  io  a.m.  to  12  o'clock,  where 
ask  to  see  the  sword  of  El  Rey  Chico,  etc. 
(p.  200).) 


0 


194 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


This  summer  villa  of  the  sultans  of 
Granada  was,  probably,  in  the  first  in- 
stance, an  important  watch-tower,  or 
advanced  sentiy  of  the  fortress  of  the  Al- 
hambra.    It  was  built  no  doubt  by  the 
first  kings  of  Granada,  and  considerably 
enlarged,  or  rather  rebuilt,  in  the  reign 
of  Abu:l-Walid,   about  the  'Year   of 
the  Great  Victory  of  Religion,'  as  the 
inscriptions  run,  that  is  in  the  month 
of  RabiS  1,  719,  which  corresponds  to 
April-May,  1319— the  very  year  when 
the  armies  of  the  Infantes  D.  Juan  and 
D.  Pedro  were  routed  and  the  princes 
killed  ;  an  event  that  took  place  close 
to  Sierra  Elvira.      Marmol,  who  wrote 
in  the  16th  century,  derives  the  etymo- 
logy from  '  Garden  of  the  Dance '  (De 
la  Zambra),  which  certainly  would  ap- 
pear more  appropriate  to  this  the  abode 
of  pleasure  and  revelry.     The  palace 
and    gardens   became  the    hereditary 
alcaldia  of  the  house  of  Avila,  and  sub- 
sequently by  marriage  a  portion  of  the 
estates  of  the  Marquis  of  Campo  Tejar 
(of  the  Italian  Grimaldi-Gentili  family 
of  Genoa),  Philip  IV.  having  made  it  a 
perpetual  grant  to  the  house  of  Granada 
and  Venegas.      There  is,  besides,  an- 
other house  of  Granada,  whose  dukes 
are  descendants  of  Dona  Isabel  de  Solis 
(Zoraya),    the    fair    sultana    of  Abu- 
Hasen.     This  palace,  which  was  used 
on  great  festal  occasions,  is  inferior  to 
the  Alhambra  in  size  and  general  style. 
Our  appreciation  of  its  merits  is,  how- 
ever, liable  to  mistake,  as  whitewash 
and  neglect  have  been  busy  at  work, 
and  but  little    remains  to  recal  the 
glowing  descriptions  contained  in  the 
few  poems  which    have  escaped    the 
wrathful  hands  of  restorers.     A  princi- 
pal feature  must  have  been  the  gardens 
and  wTaters.      The  canal  of  the  Darro 
empties  here  its  abundant  and  rapid 
waters,  which  flow  through  a  series  of 
evergreen    arches    formed    by    yews 
twisted  and  cut  into  quaint  patterns. 


On  the  sides  grow  oranges  and  lemon 
trees,  their  vivid  shining  leaves  con- 
trasting pleasantly  with  the  sombre 
arrowy  cypresses. 

On  leaving  the  Alhainbra,  passing  by 
the   H6tel  de  los    Siele    Suelos,   and 
glancing  to  some  ruins  on  the  left,  said 
to  be  remains  of  the   stables  of  the 
Moorish  guard,  we  turn  to  the  left  and 
enter,  by  the  Cancela  de  Fuentepefia, 
the  principal  avenue  of  the  villa,  which 
on  approaching  nearer  is  shaded  by  tall 
close  -  cropped  cypresses  and  hedges. 
On  arriving,  the  portress,  who  seems  a 
descendant  of  the  former  door-keepers 
of  the  palace,  comes  down  lazily  and 
opens  the  door,  which  leads  into  a 
spacious  patio,  with  a  garden  in  the 
middle,     through     which     runs    the 
Acequia.    A  long  gallery,  decorated 
with    slender   pillars   and    seventeen 
arches,  runs  on  the  left,  overlooking 
the   Alhambra.      Whitewash   laid  in 
thick  coats  has   concealed,  and  may 
have  saved  in  some  respect  the  delicate 
tarkish,  the  ceiling,   and  arabesques 
over  the  pillars.      The   chapel  into 
which  visitors  are  taken  next  is  most 
indifferent,  and  was  built  on  the  site 
of  a  Moorish  oratory  or  mihrab,  of 
which  some  portions  may  be  still  de- 
scried. A  few  modernised  rooms  follow, 
in  one  of  which  are  placed  some  daubs 
vouchsafed  as  authentic  portraits  of 
Boabdil,  the  Catholic  Kings,  Gonzola 
de  Cordova,  etc.,  and  a  family  tree  of 
the  Campotejars.     There  is,  however, 
close  by,   a  most  exquisite   boudoir, 
which  has  preserved  its  former  style. 
Observe  the  coloured  domic  ceiling, 
the  stuccoed  walls,  which  look  like  the 
open  worked  leaves  of  a  Chinese  fan. 

Pass  on  by  a  staircase  to  The  Court 
of  the  Cypresses.  It  is  square,  with  a 
pond  and  fountain  in  the  centre,  sur- 
rounded by  roses  and  box  shrubs. 
The  garden  preserves  the  general 
form  of  the  Moorish  period  ;  but  was 


GRANADA — CATHEDRAL, 


195 


modernised  in  the  reign  of  Charles  V. 
Observe  the  beautiful  cypresses,  which 
date  from  the  time  of  the  Moors. 
Under  one  of  the  largest,  a  love-scene 
is  said  to  have  taken  place,  in  which 
Sultana  Zoraya  was  the  heroine. 

A  series  of  lovely  upper  gardens,  and 
a  final  Mirador,  crown  the  slopes ;  the 
view  from  which  is  glorious.  A  side- 
door  leads  to  the  Silla  Del  Moro,  a  hill, 
the  summit  of  which  was,  until  lately, 
generally  supposed  to  have  been  the 
site  of  the  celebrated  Alijares,  another 
sumptuous  Moorish  palace.  (It  is  toler- 
ably well  established,  now,  that  the 
Alijares  crowned  the  opposite,  lower  hill, 
over  the  Carapo  de  los  Martires. )  Here 
was  also  the  far-famed  summer  villa  of 
Darlaroca,  or  the  Bride's  Palace ;  and 
on  the  other  side,  descending  towards 
the  Genii,  stood  the  wonderful  aviary 
of  Dar-al-wad,  or  House  of  the  River. 
There  are  some  remains  of  a  mihrab  and 
Moorish  tanks,  the  largest  of  which  is 
the  Algibe  de  la  Lluvia. 

Turn  now  to  the  right,  and  get,  by 
the  Cemetery  road,  into  the  Campo  de 
los  Martires.  On  this  spot  Boab- 
dil,  the  day  of  the  surrender  of  his 
capital,  met  Cardinal  Mendoza,  and 
proceeding  a  little  farther,  close  to 
the  present  small  chuTch  of  St.  Sebas- 
tian, the  ill-fated  dethroned  monarch 
held  the  interview,  already  described, 
with  the  Catholic  Kings,  who,  on 
January  6,  entered  the  city,  holding 
a  grand  levle  in  the  Hall  of  Comares. 
The  convent,  once  situated  here,  has 
been  removed.  The  slopes  of  the  hill 
are  covered  with  excavated  hovels,  in- 
habited by  gipsies,  and  farther  on  by 
carmenes  or  villas.  To  the  left  a  small 
avenue  leads  to  the  fine  mansion  and 
gardens  of  Mr.  Meersmans.  Following 
the  road  by  the  gardens,  we  reach  the 
Torres  Bermejas,  or  Red  Towers.  Here 
is  the  Church  of  San  Cecilio,  a  Muz- 
arabic  church  during  the  Moslem's  sway, 
raised  to  a  parish  in  1501. 


£a%brai. — Hours  to  see  Cathedral, 
8  A.M.  to  11  a.m.,  and  3  p.m.  to  4  p.m. 
To  see  the  Chapel  Royal,  after  or  before 
the  coro  service,  apply  at  sacristia, 
mistrusting  all  chance  guides.  This 
fine  specimen  of  the  Graco-Roman  style 
was  intended  by  the  architect  to  be 
second  to  no  church  in  the  world,  *  ex- 
cept, perhaps,  St.  Peter's.'  The  pro- 
portions are  good,  but  the  building  is 
not  seen  to  advantage,  from  being 
rather  choked  up  by  the  surrounding 
houses.  It  was  built  on  the  site  of  the 
great  mosque,  and  begun  in  1529  by 
Diego  de  Siloe,  son  and  scholar  of  the 
celebrated  Burgalese,  Gil  de  Siloe,  con- 
tinued by  his  pupil,  Juan  de  Maeda, 
and  Juan  de  Orea,  one  of  the  architects 
who  worked  at  the  palace  of  Charles  V. 
It  was  completed  in  1639.  Exterior. — 
It  is  placed  between  the  Plaza  de  Bi- 
barrambla  and  that  of  Las  Pasiegas ; 
the  principal  facade  is  in  the  latter 
square,  and  is  composed  of  three  en- 
trances, adorned  with  statues  and  alto- 
relievos.  iTUerior. — Noble,  simple,  and 
grand,  divided  into  five  naves ;  the 
pillars  massive,  with  heavy  entablatures 
and  weak  superimposed  cols.  Domical 
roof  poor ;  windows  bald.  The  choir  is 
in  the  middle ;  the  stalls  of  different 
periods  and  indifferent  merit ;  the 
trascoro  is  churriguer'esque,  but  not  of 
its  worst  style,  made  up  of  red,  black, 
and  white  marbles,  with  a  curious 
mosaic  on  the  altar,  which  a  lusus  na- 
twee,  slightly  aided  by  man,  may  re- 
present the  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony 
in  the  Desert.  The  organs  are  not  in 
good  taste,  but  first-rate  as  instruments. 
The  marble  pavement  very  fine,  and 
placed  at  the  end  of  the  last  century. 
The  noble  cimborio  rises  some  220  ft, 
and  the  arch  (arco  toral),  190  ft.,  open- 
ing to  the  coro,  has  a  bend  which  is 
much  admired  by  connoisseurs.  The 
dome  is  painted  in  white  and  gold  ;  the 
high  altar  stands  isolated,  and  at  the 


rr 


196 


GRANADA — CATHEDRAL. 


sides  are  the  kneeling  effigies  of  Fer- 
dinand and  Isabella.  The  interior  is 
425  ft  long  by  249  ft.  wide  (Spanish 
measure).  The  High  Chapel  is  very 
fine.  There  are  seven  pictures  by 
Alonso  Cano,  and  the  colossal  heads 
of  Adam  and  Eve,  also  by  him,  above 
the  high  altar,  let  into  circular  recesses ; 
there  are  fifteen  chapels  around  the 
church.  Beginning  by  those  to  the 
right,  we  may  mention  : — Capilla  de 
San  Miguel.  —  Founded  by  Peralta, 
Archbishop  of  Granada,  and  before 
Bishop  of  Tucuman  and  Cusco,  whose 
enormous  wealth  was  equalled  by  his 
•generosity  and  love  of  art.  He  lived 
near  Granada  in  his  magnificent  villa  of 
Viznar,  more  like  a  king  than  a  priest 
of  God,  and  is  buried  here.  It  was 
built  in  1804,  by  Romero  de  Aregon. 
The  statue  of  the  tutelar  is  of  marble 
of  Macael,  and  there  are  some  fine 
jaspers  from  Sierra  Nevada.  In  the 
group,  Satan  absorbs  all  the  room, 
which  made  the  prelate  observe,  'El 
diablo  se  lo  ha  llevado  todo.'  It  was 
designed  and  executed  by  one  Adam, 
who  in  this  case  was  not  the  first  man 
in  his  time.  To  the  right  a  fine  Alonso 
Cano,  '  La  Virgen  de  la  Soledad. '  Next 
comes  the  door  which  leads  to  the  sag- 
rario.  Some  pictures,  and  one  before 
which  San  Juan  de  Dios  used  to  pray. 
Capilla  de  la  Trinidad.  — Paintings  : 
subject,  God  the  Father  a  Dead  Christ, 
by  Cano,  and  a  Holy  Family  on  left  by 
Bocanegra.  Altar  or  Chapel  of  Jesus 
Nazareno. — The  retablo  is  full  of  pic- 
tures by  Ribera  and  Cano  ;  the  one  in 
the  middle,  St.  Paul,  is  the  copy  of  one 
that  was  stolen  in  1842,  which  theft  is 
here  kindly  attributed  to  Ingleses  over- 
enthusiastic  for  '  las  glorias  de  la  escttela 
espafiola.'  By  Ribera,  San  Antonio, 
St.  Lorenzo,  the  Magdalen ;  by  Cano, 
St.  Augustine,  La  Amargura,  a  Christ, 
rod  a  Virgin. 
Next  comes  the  beautiful  arch  and  I 


door  that  lead  to  the  Capilla  Real.  It 
is  of  good  Gothic  style,  and  most  richly 
ornamented  ;  observe  the  two  splendid 
royal  escutcheons,  a  series  of  saints  in 
a  row  round  the  arch,  etc.  Chapel  oj 
Santiago. — An  equestrian  image  of  St. 
James,  by  one  Medrano.  The  different 
chapels  about  the  interior  between  the 
naves  are  not  remarkable  ;  at  that  of 
Sta.  Ana,  observe  the  pictures  of  San 
Juan  de  Mata  and  San  Pedro  Nolasco, 
by  Bocanegra.  Chapel  de  la  Antigua. 
— Portraits,  said  to  be  exact  likenesses, 
of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  by  Rincon ; 
ascribed  also  to  Juan  de  Sevilla,  who, 
it  is  added,  copied  them  from  the  ori- 
ginals by  Rincon,  now  at  Madrid  ;  the 
image  on  the  altar  is  the  identical  one 
which  the  Catholic  kings  brought  to 
the  camp  during  the  siege,  and  placed 
in  the  Church  del  Carmen,  near  the 
Ermita  de  San  Sebastian.  Pass  on  to 
Chapel  del  Carmen. — A  fine  head  of  St. 
Paul,  by  Cano.  Oyer  the  door  leading 
to  the  Sala  Capitular,  observe  a  medal- 
lion and  a  beautifully  composed  and 
executed  group  of  '  Charity,'  by  Pietro 
Torrigiano,  Michael  Angelo's  rival, 
and  favourite  of  Lorenzo  de  Medici 
This  great  Florentine  sculptor  hastened 
to  Granada  when  he  heard  that 
Charles  Y.  had  appealed  to  the  first 
artists  of  the  world  to  embellish  the 
church  and  make  designs  for  the  royal 
sepulchres  of  his  father  and  mother  and 
the  Catholic  kings  ;  he  came,  but  was 
not  chosen,  and  left  only  this  specimen 
of  his  talents.  Near  this  door  is  a  fine 
Crucifixion,  by  Bocanegra.  Under  the 
choir  lies  the  granadino  Alonso  Cano. 
The  Chapel  of  the  sagrario,  a  small 
church  itself,  and  the  parish  church  of 
the  cathedral,  was  begun  in  1705  and 
finished  in  1759,  on  the  site  of  the  for- 
mer mosque,  built  in  the  14th  century. 
This  was  a  square  building,  with  a  low 
roof,  and  divided  into  four  small  naves 
supported  by  jasper  pillars,  forming  by 


GRANADA — CATHEDRAL. 


197 


their  many  arches  a  profusion  of  small 
cupolas  elaborately  carved.  It  was  on 
one  of  its  three  doors,  next  to  that 
leading  to  the  Royal  Chapel,  that  Her- 
nan  Perez  del  Pulgar  nailed  a  tablet 
bearing  the  words  '  Ave  Maria,'  to  ac- 
complish which  feat,  during  the  siege, 
he  entered  the  town  at  dusk  and  left  it 
unharmed  amid  the  plaudits  of  the 
Arab  warriors,  who  appreciated  this 
exploit.  There  are  some  well-carved 
effigies  and  precious  marbles.  In  the 
Sagrario  lies  the  first  Archbishop  of 
Granada,  F.  de  Talavera,  obt.  1507. 
The  tomb  was  raised  by  his  friend, 
Conde  de  Tondella,  and  inscribed  *  Ami- 
cus Amico.'  Here  is  a  chapel  where 
the  hero  is  buried,  and  called  hence 
del  Pulgar. 

Ckapel  Royal  (Capilla  de  los  Reyes).  — 
So  called,  because  it  is  the  burial-place 
of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  of  Philip, 
and  Juana,  their  daughter.  It  is  the 
chief  object  of  interest  in  the  cathedral, 
although  it  is  independent  of  it,  and 
has  its  especial  chapter  and  chap- 
lains. It  was  built  by  order  of  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella,  by  Felipe  Vigarni, 
alias  Philip  de  Borgoiia,  in  the  special 
Cinquecento  style  adopted  by  this  ar- 
chitect Observe  the  groups  of  slender 
pillars  in  the  angles  terminating  at 
the  capitals  in  palm  branches  that 
spread  over  the  roof.  A  magnificent 
reja  divides  the  church,  and  is  the 
work  of  Bartolome'  of  Jaen,  1533.  Ob- 
serve the  escutcheons  with  the  yugos 
(yoke)  and  bundle  of  arrows.  The  in- 
scription, which  runs  round  the  cornice, 
is  to  this  effect : 

This  chapel  was  founded  by  the  most  Catho- 
lic Don  Fernando  and  Dona  Isabel,  King  and 
Queen  of  las  Espanas,  of  Naples,  of  Sicily,  and 
Jerusalem,  who  conquered  this  kingdom,  and 
brought  it  back  to  our  Faith  ;  who  acquired  the 
Canary  Isles  and  Indies,  as  well  as  the  cities 
of  Oran,  Tripoli,  and  Bugia  ;  who  crushed 
heresy,  expelled  the  Moors  and    Tews  from 


these  realms,  and  reformed  religion.  The  Queen 
died  Tuesday,  Nov.  26,  1504.  The  king  died 
Jan.  23,  1516.     The  building  was  completed  in 

1517- 

The  high  altar  is  ascended  by  some  steps. 
The  retablo  is  the  work  of  Felipe  de 
Borgona  ;  the  bassi-relievi  are  most  in- 
teresting for  the  scenes  they  represent 
and  the  costumes  of  those  times.  Ob- 
serve the  Surrender  of  Granada — Isa- 
bella on  a  white  palfrey  between  Ferdi- 
naud  and  Mendoza,  who  is  riding  on  a 
mule,  as  was  the  fashion  for  prelates  in 
those  days.  Boabdil  presents  the  keys; 
behind  are  ladies,  knights,  halberdiers, 
and  in  the  distance  captives  are  seen 
coming  out  from  the  gates.  Another 
relievo  has  for  its  subject  the  Conversion 
of  Infidels. 

At  each  extremity  of  the  altar  are 
kneeling  effigies  of  the  Catholic  kings, 
most  interesting,  as  being  exact  repre- 
sentations of  their  faces,  costumes,  forms : 
behind  the  king  is  the  banner  of  Cas- 
tile. In  the  centre  of  the  chapel  are 
two  alabastar  sepulchres,  on  which  are 
extended  on  the  right  one,  facing  the 
altar,  the  effigies  of  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  and  on  the  left  Philip  and 
Crazy  Jane,  side  by  side.  They  are 
among  the  most  magnificent  mauso- 
leums in  the  world,  and  were  wrought 
by  Italian  artists,  some  say  Vigarni, 
and  others  Peralta,  from  Genoa.  They 
are  all  superb,  and  decorated  with  deli- 
cate ornaments  and  statuettes.  Ob- 
serve in  that  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella 
the  four  doctors  of  the  Church  at  the 
corners,  and  twelve  apostles  at  the 
sides  ;  the  details,  ornaments,  children, 
foliage,  all  most  Italian -like  ;  the  soft, 
cream-coloured,  ivory-looking  alabaster 
adds  not  a  little  to  the  pleasing  effect 
of  the  whole.  Ferdinand  wears  the 
garter,  and  Isabella  the  cross  of  Santi- 
ago, Philip  the  Golden  Fleece.  Crazy 
Jane's  soft  and  gentle  expression  be- 
speaks contentment  to  be  at  last  resting 


198 


GRANADA — LA   CARTUJA. 


by  the  side  of  hiin  from  whom  she 
never  would  part  when  he  was  dead, 
and  whose  jealous  love  became  insanity 
at  last.  *  The  statue  of  Isabella  is  ad- 
mirable,' says  a  writer,  '  her  smile  is  as 
cold,  and  her  look  is  as  placid,  as 
moonlight  sleeping  on  snow.' 

In  questa  forma 
Passa  la  bella  donna,  e  par  che  donna. 

She  died  indeed  far  from  Granada, 
but  desired  to  be  buried  here  in  the 
brightest  pearl  of  her  crown.  The  sen- 
timent is  truly  touching,  and  the  effect 
aimed  at  is  fully  produced  ;  the  subject 
is  the  Christian's  death,  who,  stretched 
on  the  tomb,  has  yet  the  hope  of  an- 
other and  a  better  life.  '  She  is  one  of 
the  most  faultless  characters  in  history, 
one  of  the  purest  sovereigns  who  ever 
graced  or  dignified  a  throne,  who,  '  in 
all  her  relations  of  queen  or  woman,' 
was,  in  the  words  of  Lord  Bacon,  *  an 
honour  to  her  sex  and  the  cornerstone 
of  the  greatness  of  Spain.  * '  Descend 
into  the  vault,  in  which  their  ashes 
lie  in  rude  and  plain  coffins,  with  a 
simple  letter,  the  initial  one  of  each 
respective  king  and  queen.  Here,  too, 
are  the  ashes  of  the  little  Prince  Miguel, 
infant  son  of  Philip  and  Juana.  These 
iron-bound  caskets  are  undoubtedly 
genuine,  the  royal  resting-place  never 
having  been  disturbed  by  either  friend 
or  foe — unlike  most  of  the  Spanish 
royal  tombs. 

During  the  ex-queen  Isabella's  visit 
to  Granada,  she  had  mass  said  in  this 
chapel  for  the  souls  of  these  kings,  and 
on  the  same  altar  that  was  used  by 
them,  and,  by  a  strange  coincidence, 
here  appeared  Queen  Isabella  of  Spain, 
surrounded  by  the  descendants  of  those 
who  attended  on  the  first  Isabella,  when 
mass  was  said  before  that  same  altar  at 
the  taking  of  Granada — at  an  interval 
of  400  years,  1492-1862  ;  with  this 
difference,  that  they  added  a  new  world 


to  their  mighty  dominions,  and  she 
stood  the  daughter  of  a  Ferdinand  who 
lost  the  former.  Observe  in  the  Sa- 
cristia  the  plain  sword  used  by  Ferdi- 
nand, and  his  sceptre,  the  silver-gilt 
crown  of  Isabella,  her  missal,  a  cha- 
suble embroidered  by  her,  a  painting 
(subject,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi)  by 
Hemmeling  of  Bruges,  etc.  In  the 
SHcristia,  a  San  Jos£,  by  Cano,  and  a 
few  relics. 

lis  Cartaja. — This  suppressed  con- 
vent lies  without  the  city  (on  the  N. )  1 
m.  from  the  Triunfo,  on  a  spot  with  a 
very  Moorish  name,  like  all  here,  Hina- 
damar.  It  was  once  a  very  wealthy  con- 
vent, founded  by  the  Carthusian  Order 
on  grounds  belonging  to  and  granted  tc 
them  by  Gonzalo  de  Cordova,  '  el  gran 
capitan.'  The  French  plundered  it, 
and  have  left  only  what  they  could  not 
take  away.  Observe  in  the  refectory, 
on  the  wall  at  the  extremity,  a  painted 
cross,  by  Cotan,  so  good  an  imitation 
of  wood  that  it  is  said  the  very  birds 
make  the  mistake  and  fly  in  to  perch 
upon  it  In  the  adjoining  chapel,  SS. 
Peter  and  Paul,  by  Cotan,  and  in  the 
cloisters  a  series  of  pictures  by  the 
same,  representing  strange  and  repug- 
nant scenes  of  Carthusian  martyrdoms 
and  persecutions  by  the  English  Pro- 
testants. Sagrario.  —  A  triumph  of 
churrigueresque  Fresco  by  Palomino  ; 
doors  of  the  coro  and  sacristia  beauti- 
fully inlaid  with  silver,  ebony,  tortoise- 
shell,  mother-of-pearl,  etc.  See  in  the 
respaldos  del  coro  a  fine  San  Bruno,  by 
Reseyra,  and  Flight  into  Egypt,  by 
Cotan.  Observe  in  the  santuario  the 
rich  and  various  marbles,  jaspers,  onyx. 
In  the  sacristy,  marble  slabs  simulat- 
ing paintings  and  subjects,  in  which, 
as  in  clouds,  every  one  may  see  mast 
clearly  what  his  fancy  suggests  ;  two 
Morales. 

Churches.  —  Until  1843,  Granada 
contained    upwards     of    twenty-thre 


GRANADA. 


199 


parishes,  most  of  which  have  been  sup- 
pressed ;  besides  the  Cathedral  and 
Cartuja  there  are  few  of  any  artistic 
value,  either  as  a  building  or  from  its 
contents.  We  shall,  however,  mention 
Las  Augustias.  In  Carrera  del  Genii ; 
elegant  towers,  1664.  The  statues  of 
the  Twelve  Apostles  are  by  Pedro 
Duque  Cornejo.  Close  to  it,  in  a 
small  square,  is  a  statue  erected  to 
the  actor  Maiquez,  by  Komea  and  Ma- 
tilde  Diez,  the  best  living  actors  of  this 
day. 

San  Cristobal. — In  the  Albaycin  bar- 
rio. The  view  from  its  belfry  is  ex- 
tensive, and  worth  the  trouble  of  the 
ascent  Tower  of  San  JosS. — Very 
early  ;  built  close  to  the  form  sr  ram- 
parts of  the  Alcazaba.  San  Juan  de  los 
Reyes. — The  former  mosque,  SI  Teybir. 
The  first  mosque  which  was  converted 
—into  a  Christian  church  after  the  cap- 
ture of  the  town  by  the  Catholic  kings. 

San  Nicolas.  — A  former  mosque.  The 
view  from  it  is  the  finest  in  Granada. 

Salvador. — On  the  site  of  the  lar- 
gest mosque  in  this  quarter  of  the  town ; 
in  a  patio  near  the  house  inhabited  by 
the  sexton  are  some  Moorish  remains. 
Consecrated  by  Cardinal  Ximenes, 
November  16,  1499.  On  that  same 
day  began  the  forced  conversion  of 
the  Moors.     Built  by  Alonso  de  Vega. 

San  Geronimo,  church  and  convent, 
begun  by  Siloe,  1492,  for  Talavera, 
confessor  of  the  Catholic  kings ;  finished 
by  the  widow  of  El  Gran  Capitan  ;  re- 
stored in  bad  taste  1882.  Gonsalvo 
himself  was  buried  here.  See  his  tomb 
and  that  of  his  wife.  See  also  their 
effigies  on  either  side  of  the  high  altar, 
and,  in  the  transepts,  the  figures  of 
Gonsalvo's  four  companions. 

Colegiata  del  Sacro  Monte. — On  a  hill,  a 
steep  ascent ;  the  early  Puerta  Quemada  arch 
is  seen  on  the  way,  said  to  he  a  Roman  work. 
The  church  is  indifferent ;  the  transept  leads 
to  the  Santas  Cuevas,  a  subterranean  series  of 
chapels  filled  with  slabs,  etc.,  and  erected  in 


commemoration  of  supposed  miracles,  treasure* 
trove,  finding  of  early  records,  and  medals,  etc 

Sto.  Domingo. — Founded  by  the  Catholic 
1  kings,  at  the  request  of  the  celebrated  Fray 
Tomas  de  Torquemada  (near  it  is  the  Cuarto 
Real).    See  supra. 

Santo  Domingo. — The  facade  is  by  Siloe. 
Here  are  fine  specimens  of  Alonso  Cano,  Juan 
de  Sevilla,  A.  Bocanegra,  and  J.  Sanchez 
Cotan.  Do  not  fail  to  observe  the  six  fine 
enamels  on  the  portable  altar  from  the  Convent 
of  San  Geronimo.  The  Provincial  "Museo 
de  Antiguedades,"  has  been  arranged  in  the 
first  floor.  Observe  some  interesting  Moorish 
pottery,  arquebus,  etc.    Open  all  day. 

San  Juande  Dios. — Founded  by  this  Portu- 
guese saint,  who  was  born  1495;  came  to 
Granada,  and  manifested  his  fanaticism  in  such 
a  manner  that  he  was  considered  mad,  and 
shut  up  in  the  Hospital  Real  in  a  cage,  which 
is  shown  to  visitors. 

Public  Buildings. — These  are  of  no 

importance,  being  mostly  built  at  a 
period  when  the  prosperity  of  Granada 
was  rapidly  declining,  and  those  that 
date  from  the  Moorish  epoch,  and  of 
that  of  the  Catholic  kings  have  been 
so  considerably  altered  and  injured 
that  they  no  longer  retain  any  charac- 
ter. "We  shall,  however,  mention  them, 
and  let  our  readers  judge  for  them- 
selves. CasasConsistoriales. — The  build- 
ing was  erected  by  the  Moors,  and  was 
used,  it  is  believed,  as  an  university, 
where  the  celebrated  Koranic  Academy, 
founded  by  Abdallah  Solyman  Al-Cas- 
sim,  was  established.  It  was  modern- 
ised in  1720.  Hospital  de  los  Locos,  or 
Lunatic  Asylum. — Corner  of  Plaza  del 
Triunfo.  One  of  the  earliest  known. 
Founded  by  the  Catholic  .kings,  Gotho- 
plateresque  style.  Chancilleria,  or 
Court  of  Chancery,  in  Plaza  Nueva, 
built  1584,  by  Martin  Diaz  Navarro. 

University. — Was  founded  in  1531, 
by  Charles  V.,  and  Pope  Clement  VII. 
granted  to  it  privileges  similar  to  those 
of  the  universities  of  Bologna,  Paris, 
Salamanca,  and  Alcald  de  Henares ; 
the  botanical  garden  annexed  to  it  is 
all  weeds  and  neglect. 

Museo. — Few  good  paintings,  por- 
traits of  the  Catholic  kings,  by  Kin* 


I  • 


200 


GRANADA. 


con,  several  by  Bocanegra  and  Cotan, 
a  portable  altar  from  San  Geronimo, 
with  six  fine  enamels  on  copper,  and 
specimens  of  Mora  and  Hisueno. 

Libraries. — That  of  the  University. 
A  polyglot  Bible  and  several  works  on 
theology,  few  Arab  MSS.,  and  little  of 
interest  relative  to  Granada. 

Private  houses. — A  group  in  the  aris- 
tocratic Calle  de  las  Tablas.  In  the 
Calle  de  Gracia,  No.  23,  the  Empress 
Eugenie — dona  Eugenia  de  Guzman 
de  Portocarrero — was  born.  Near  the 
post  office  stands  the  house  of  the  Gran 
Capitan,  and,  close  by,  the  interesting 
old  Casa  de  los  Tiros,  belonging  to  the 
Marquis  de  Campotejar.  Here  may  be 
seen  the  fine  sword  of  El  Rey  Chico, 
some  fair  tapestries  and  a  heavily 
joisted  ceiling  carved  with  a  series  of 
heads — of  the  Reyes  Cat61icos,  etc. 
A  few  minutes'  walk  from  here  is  the 
Puerta  del  Carbon,  once  the  barracks 
of  the  Moorish  cavalry.  The  doorway 
and  arch  are  fine,  but  rapidly  deteriorat- 
ing. The  Casa  was  built  as  early  as  1 070, 
by  Badis.  Do  not  fail  to  notice  the 
fine  16th  century  Casa  de  Castril  in  the 
Carrera  del  Darro,  with  good  renaissance 
details  after  Diego  de  Siloe,  and  the 
motto  ' Esperandola  del  eielo,'  about 
which  clings  an  interesting  old  legend. 

Walls,  Gates,  Streets,  etc.— Of  the 
three  cercast  or  lines  of  circumvallation, 
with  which  the  Moors  fortified  their 
beloved  city,  and  which  were  flanked 
by  1030  massive  towers,  few  and  un- 
interesting vestiges  remain.  Of  its 
former  twenty  gates,  most  have  dis- 
appeared, and  awkward  repairs  and 
alterations  have  disfigured  the  rest. 
The  principal  is  Puerta  de  Monayma, 
in  the  Albacin ;  its  meaning  in  Arab 
is  '  Gate  of  the  Standard, '  and  was  so 
called  because  on  the  outbreak  of  any 
disturbance  the  khalif  s  royal  standard 
was  hoisted  upon  it,  as  a  signal.  Puerta 
de  Elvira,  so  called  because  it  is  placed 


towards  Ghebal-Elveyra,  or  Sierra  El 
vira ;  it  has  been  recently  repaired 
Puerta  del  Pescado,  with  three  Moorish 
arches.  "We  have  already  noticed  that 
of  Las  Granadas  (Alhambra).  The 
principal  squares  are  :  the  renowned 
Bibarrambla,  where  once  stood  Bibal- 
raml,  the  Gate  of  the  River ;  it  is 
interesting  only  as  having  been  the 
site  of  so  many  jousts  and  tournaments, 
gallant  deeds,  Moorish  fantasia,  not 
unlike  those  present  Algerine  hippie 
performances,  etc.,  and  the  scene  of 
great  events  and  continual  partisan 
hostile  meetings. 

The  Moorish  king  rides  up  and  down 
Through  Granada's  royal  town ; 
From  Elvira's  gates  to  those 
Of  Bibarrambla,  on  he  goes. 

Woe  is  me,  Alhama  1 — Lord  Byron. 

Which  latter  verse  ought  to  have  been 
translated,  '  Woe  to  my  Alhama ! '  (Ay 
de  mi  Alhama !)  This  legend-haunted 
spot  has  been  converted  into  a  common- 
place Plaza  de  la  Constitucion — sic 
transit  gloria.  .  .  Mauri.  Close  to  it  is 
the  ancient  Pescaderia,  the  modernised 
palace  of  the  archbishop,  whose  homi- 
lies Gil  Bias  finally  ventured  to  criti- 
cise, and  adjoining  it  the  cathedral. 
The  town-hall  is  unworthy  of  notice. 
Plaza  del  Triunfo,  a  large  open  place, 
with  a  pretty  paseo,  a  much- venerated 
effigy  of  the  Virgin,  by  Juan  de  Mena, 
and  a  statue  of  Maria  Pineda,  a  politi- 
cal martyr  who  was  strangled  here  in 
May  1831.  A  constitutional  flag  hav- 
ing been  found  in  her  house,  she,  in 
consequence,  was  convicted  of  high 
treason,  and  mercilessly  condemned  to 
death.  The  unfortunate  lady  has  been 
executed  a  second  time  in  effigy  by  the 
sculptor.  Adjoining  this  plaza  are  the 
bull-ring,  Church  of  San  Ildefonso, 
Gate  of  Elvira,  and  the  Hospital  ReaL 
The  Plaza  Nueba  contains  little  to 
interest  us.  It  is  built  over  the  Darro. 
Here  stands   the  modern  Audiencvi. 


GRANADA — EXCURSIONS. 


201 


and  formerly  the  Chancilleria,  with  a 
fiiie  facade. 

The  principal  streets  are,  El  Zacatin, 
where  the  principal  Moorish  market- 
place once  stood,  as  the  name  suffi- 
ciently explains  (zoc,  Arabice  a  mar- 
ket, like  the  Zoko  at  Tetuan,  Zoco- 
dover  at  Toledo,  etc.)  It  is  now 
a  narrow  sombre  street,  lined  with 
shops.  About  half-way  to  the  left  is 
the  Alcaiceria,  the  Moors'  silk  bazaar. 
A  great  portion  of  it  was  destroyed  by 
fire  in  1842  ;  but  vestiges  still  exist  of 
Moorish  stucco  work  and  rich  orna- 
mentation. In  the  Calle  de  las  Tablas 
are  situated  the  houses  of  grandees. 
We  may  also  mention,  Calle  de  San 
Francisco,  Acera  del  Genii,  etc. 

Promenades,  Theatres,  etc. — The 
Alameda  is  a  charming  broad  avenue 
formed  by  rows  of  stately  elms  that, 
uniting  their  branches  above,  form  a 
roof  of  foliage  so  dense  that  the  shade 
beneath  is  most  refreshing,  even  during 
the  hottest  days  in  the  year.  There  are 
gardens  on  each  side,  covered  with  roses. 
There  are  fountains  at  the  extremities 
which  contribute  to  the  coolness  of  the 
air  in  summer,  but  are  otherwise  unin- 
teresting. This  promenade,  and  the 
bridge  built  at  the  upper  end  of  it,  are 
the  works  devised  by  Marshal  Sebasti- 
ani,  who  considered  them  probably  as 
fully  compensating  for  the  destruction 
of  the  Alhambra,  etc.  The  Alameda, 
or  Paseo  de  Inviemo,  with  the  continua- 
tion Paseo  del  Salon  and  Paseo  de  la 
Bomba,  are  the  fashionable  walks;  the 
fashionable  hours  of  paseo  being  9  to 
10  p.m.  in  the  summer,  4  to  6  p.m.  in 
the  winter.  The  bronze  monument  at 
the  end  of  the  Alameda  (by  Mariano 
Benlliure,  1892)  commemorates  the 
agreement  of  Isabel  la  Catolica  with 
Columbus,  A.  D.  1491.  Near  the  Alameda 
del  Darro  is  the  medicinal  fountain  de 
los  Avellanos,  the  site  of  the  Moorish 
Ayu-ad-dama,  or  the  Fountain  of  Tears. 

The  present  theatre  (Teatro  Principal ) 


is  small  but  elegant.  Spanish  comedies 
(modern),  mostly  French  translations, 
dramas,  and  dancing.  The  new  theatre, 
de  Isabel  la  Catdlica,  is  elegantly  fitted 
up. 

The  Plaza  de  Toros  is  small,  and  the 
'corridas'  here  are  considered  very 
second-rate. 

Festivals. — The  principal  local  festi- 
vals of  the  year  are,  the  anniversary  of 
the  taking  of  Granada  by  the  Catholic 
kings,  January  2.  Repair  that  day, 
about  3  to  4  p.m.,  to  the  Alhambra, 
where  the  bands  play,  and  the  pretty 
Granadinas,  'que  son  muy  finas,'  as 
rhyme  and  truth  will  have  it,  parade  in 
their  holiday  dresses.  On  that  day  the 
peasant  girls  from  the  vega  and  sur- 
rounding hamlets  repair  to  the  Alham- 
bra, ascend  the  Torre  de  la  vega,  and 
each  in  turn  strikes  the  bell  that  is 
placed  there,  which  is  said  to  ensure  a 
husband,  or  at  least  wn  novio;  but  their 
black  eyes  are  surer  still  to  attract  a 
gacht,  as  the  slang  of  the  majority  de- 
signates a  Lindoro.  On  that  day  the 
fountains  ran  in  the  Alhambra — a  poor 
specimen  now-a-days  of  what  the 
grandes  eaux  of  that  Moorish  Versailles 
must  once  have  been.  On  Corpus 
Christi  the  Plaza  de  Bibarrambla  is 
crowded  with  picturesque  groups.  The 
feria  takes  place  on  the  5th,  6th,  and 
7th  June* 

Conveyances  to  Lanjaron. — Service  in 
summer  only  by  Alchendin,  Padul, 
Durcal,  Talara,  and  Beznar ;  a  small  dil. 
(offices,  Fonda  de  la  Alameda);  fares, 
berl.,  40r. ;  int.,  30r. ;  cupe,  20r. 

Excursions. — Sierra  Nevada. — This 
*_    excursion  must  be  undertaken 

£s8jf  in  summer  only,  and  with  a 
JiUL  good  guide.  It  will  interest 
the  geologist  and  botanist  as  well  as 
the  general  tourist.  The  Sierra  Ne- 
vada, the  old  Orospeda  and  Moorish 
Ho  Laiz,  is  a  range  of  hills  which  rise 
east  of  Granada,  and  extend  from  nortl 


1 


202 


GRANADA—  EXCURSIONS. 


to  east,  presenting  a  series  of  pinnacles 
almost  always  clad  with  snow.  On  its 
southern  slopes  is  the  district  of  the 
secluded  Alpujarras;  on  its  northern 
slopes  are  some  very  fertile  valleys. 
From  this  main  trunk  branch  the 
minor  ranges  of  Gador,  Lujar,  Git-gar, 
Filabres,  etc.,  which  are  clothed  with 
forests,  and  are  pregnant  with  marble, 
coal,  and  lead  mines,  and  contain  a 
remarkable  medicinal  herbal. 

Principal  Heights  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

English  Feet.  Authorities. 

Mula  Hacen      .  ",781  Clemente. 

Picacho  de  la  Veleta  .  11,597           Do. 

Do.                .  11,432  Boissier. 

Cerro  de  la  Alcazaba  11,356  Clemente. 

Cerro  del  Caballo       .  11,200  Estimation. 

Cerro  de  los  Machos  .  1 1,205  Clemente. 

Col  de  la  Veleta         .  10,826  Boissier. 

Glacier  of  El  Corral  .  9,585        Do. 

Sierra  Lujar       .  6,262  D'Ottensheim. 

Village  of  Trevelez    .  5,330  Boissier. 

City  of  Granada        .  2,343        Do. 

Village  of  Lanjaron   .  2,284        Do. 

The  Picacho  de  Veleta,  as  the  easiest 
of  access  from  Granada,  is  the  one 
more  generally  selected ;  the  greater 
part  may  be  ridden.  Tourists  gener- 
ally start  in  the  night,  returning  next 
day.  A  tour  round  the  Alpujarras  will 
repay  the  trouble.  Alhendin,  Padul, 
Lanjaron,  celebrated  for  its  mineral 
springs  and  most  picturesque  situation, 
the  valley  of  the  Orgiba,  the  wild 
romantic  Angosturas  del  Rio  and  Por- 
tugos  are  visited,  and  the  grand  ascent 
to  Mula  Hacen  is  then  made.  The  start- 
ing-place is  Trevelez.  The  view-  from 
the  Mula  Hacen  is  much  grander  than 
that  from  the  Veleta.  By  starting  very 
early,  tourists  may  avoid  a  night  in  the 
mountains,  and  return  next  day  to 
Orgiba  through  the  lovely  wild  Bar- 
ranco  de  Poqueira,  continuing  by  Lan- 
jaron back  to  Granada.  A  diligence  ser- 
vice from  Lanjaron  to  Granada  during 
the  summer  season  only. 

Pedestrian  explorations  of  the  Alpu- 


jarras having  become  of  late  somewhat 
more  frequent  than  hitherto,  the  follow- 
ing particulars  will  be  useful  to  our 
readers ;  but  the  interesting  paper  of 
Mr.  Charles  Packe,  published  in  the 
'  Alpine  Journal,'  and  giving  a  detailed 
account  of  his  ascent,  should  be  pro- 
cured. (See  also  'Alpine  Journal,' 
vol.  iii.  1867.) 

Make  Lanjaron  headquarters.    Reach 
that  place  by  dil.  from  Granada,  or  get 
down  at  Ultimo  Suspiro  del    Moro, 
whence  through  Durcal,  past  the  Gorge 
of  Talara  and  Bridge  of  Tablate,  and 
turning  to  left,  take  the  rough  by-road 
that  zig-zags  up  hill  to  Lanjaron.  There 
is  a  decent  posada  in  this  charmingly 
situated  African  town  '  el  paraiso  de  las 
Alpujarras,'  which  is  famous  for  its  fruit 
in  general,  and  its  oranges  more  espe- 
cially.   Here  a  guide  should  be  taken. 
(Inquire   at  the  posada.)     Walk    to 
village    of   Capilleria    by    Orgiba,    2 
hrs.  to  Barranco  de  Poqueira ;  endea- 
vour by  camping  to  avoid  the  abomin- 
able posada  at  Capilleria ;  sleep.    At 
daybreak  begin  the  ascent,  having  pre- 
viously secured  the  assistance  of  a  local 
guide  acquainted  with  the  Mula  Hacen, 
which  is  neither  dangerous  nor  even 
difficult.     '  It  is  simply  a  long,  heart- 
breaking grind.'    After  a  few  '.long, 
steep  slopes  of  mica  schist,  crowned  by 
a  fringe  of  jagged  rocks,'  you  gain  the 
rocky  pinnacle  with  a1  structure  on  the 
summit,  built  by  Government  engineers. 
The  *  Corral,'  literally  farm-yard,  is  a 
sort  of  enclosure  with  only  one  narrow 
outlet,  shut  in  by  a  precipitous  wall 
some  8  or  10  miles  in  extent,  the  depth 
some  1 500  ft.  The  glacier  (9585  ft.  above 
the  sea,   200  to  300  ft.  high,  and  600 
paces  broad,   Boissier),  which   is  the 
source  of  the  river  Jenil,  the  Barranio 
del  Infierno,  etc.,  have  not  been  much 
explored.     Follow  the  path  over  the 
Col  de  la  Veleta,  W.  of  the  picacho,  and 
I  descend  to  either  lanjaron  or  Capilleria, 


GRANADA. 


203 


From  the  Tuevelez  valley  (the  hams  here 
are  rivals  to  those  of  Capilleria  ;  they 
are  the  best  samples  of  the  snow-cured 
Alpujarra  hams)  you  may  reach  Granada 
by  the  way  of  Ujijar,  and  the  mountain 
crack  across  to  Guadix. 

Soto  de  Roma,  (from  Rum,  the  Chris- 
tian), situated  on  the  Jenil,  the  estate 
of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  of  some  4000 
acres,  worth  about  £8000  a  year,  and 
which  was  given  to  him  by  the  Cortes. 
The  buildings  and  grounds  have  been 
greatly  improved  lately. 

Another  excursion  may  be  made  across 
the  beautiful  Huerta,  2  hours'  ride  to 
Santa  Fe,  whence  3  hours'  ride  will  take 
the  tourist  to  Padul  and  the  hill  called 
*  El  Ultimo  Suspiro  del  Moro '  (the  last 
sigh  of  the  Moor).     See  p.  165. 

Those  travellers  who  are  unable  to 
make  the  complete  ascent  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  may  easily,  in  about  30  hrs., 
get  a  fair  idea  of  the  scenery  by  walking 
or  riding  (a)  to  Guejar,  a  small  village 
lying  under  the  Sierra  of  that  name  ; 
(6)  to  Huetor,  and  the  Barranco  de  San 
Juan,  situated  under  the  Picacho  de 
Veleta,  where  are  the  quarries  from 
which  the  green  Serpentine  is  obtained. 
There  is  a  good  road  nearly  all  the  way, 
and  the  scenery,  after  passing  the  small 
village  of  Xenis,  and  beginning  the 
ascent,  is  exceedingly  fine.  The  posada 
at  Guejar  is  intolerable,  but  decent 
quarters  are  obtainable  in  the  private 
house  adjoining. 

N.B. — Seiior  Contreras  has  upon  sale, 
in  his  house  in  the  Alhambra,  close  by 
the  Puerta  del  Vino,  reduced  and  well 
executed  models  of  various  portions  of 
the  palace. 

Books  of  Reference. — 1 .  *  Descripcion 
del  Reino  de  Granada,  bajo  las  Naseritas, ' 
by  Simonet ;  Madrid,  Imprenta  Na- 
cional,  1860,  1  vol.     Interesting. 

2.  '  Inscripciones  Arabes  de  Granada, ' 
by  D.  Emilio  Lafuente  Alcantara ; 
M-adrid,  1859  ;  very  interesting.     This 


young  author  is,  after  Sr.  Gayangos 
and  Estebanez  Calderon,  the  most  able 
Arabic  scholar.  The  Nazerite  dynasty 
is  treated  here  at  some  length,  as  also 
by  Simonet  in  his  work  (see  supra,  No. 
1),  and  by  Sr.  Gayangos  in  '  Memorial 
Historico  Espanol,'  vol.  x. 

3.  '  El  Libro  del  Viagero  en  Granada,' 
by  M.  Lafuente  Alcantara ;  Granada, 
Sanz,  1843,  8vo.  A  new  edition  about 
to.be  printed  ;  good. 

4.  '  Manual  del  Artista,  etc.,  en  Gra- 
nada, '  by  Jimenez  Serrano  ;  Granada, 
Puchol,  1845,  12mo;  reliable. 

Consult  also  Boissier's '  Voyage  botan- 
ique  dans  le  Midi  de  l'Espagne,'  Owen 
Jones  on  the  Alhambra,  and  Contreras' 
'Monumentos  Arabes.'  Read  Prescott's 
*  Ferdinand  and  Isabella, '  Washington 
Irving's  various  works  upon  Granada, 
and  the  quaint  ( Historia  de  las  guerras 
civilesde  Granada,'  by  Gines  Perez  de 
Hita. 

Statistics  of  Province,  Agriculture, 
etc. — Granada  is  one  of  the  eight  pro- 
vinces into  which  Andalusia  is  now 
divided,  and  the  most  eastern.  It  is 
also  one  of  the  provinces  which,  with 
Almeria,  Malaga,  and  Jaen,  are  com- 
prised within  the  jurisdiction  of  a  mili- 
tary district,  or  capitania-general,  that 
extends  over  1083  square  leagues. 
[This  has  been  lately  suppressed,  1895.] 
The  population  of  the  province  amounts 
to  about  478,000.  It  was  one  of  the  four 
Moorish  kingdoms,  or  cuatro  reinos, 
the  other  three  being  Seville,  Cordova, 
and  Jaen,  which  contained  about  3283 
square  leagues. 

The  Climate  is  admirably  suited  to 
agriculture,  and  under  the  combined 
influence  of  an  African  sun  and  mois- 
ture, kept  up  constantly  by  the  alti- 
tude and  snow  of  the  mountains,  which 
latter,  melting  the  more  as  the  heat 
becomes  greater,  flows  abundantly  into 
the  plains,  or  vegas,  and  fertilises  their 
light  ferruginous  soil,   the   succession 


204 


GRANADA — PROVINCE. 


of  crops  never  ceases,  and  the  country 
teems  with  every  variety  of  production — 
viz.,  sugar-cane,  hemp,  wine,  oil,  silk, 
corn,  and  fruits  of  all  sorts.  Such  is, 
indeed,  the  fertility  of  this  privileged 
soil  that,  with  but  little  trouble,  and 
with  no  other  means  than  the  primitive 
Moorish  implements,  the  corn  will 
yield  in  some  vegas  70  to  90  per  cent, 
and  the  Lugeralike  alfalfa  (medicago 
saliva),  grown  in  'tierrasde  regadio,' 
or  irrigated  lands,  will  bear  twelve  or 
sixteen  cuttings  in  the  year. 

Climate.— Granada  is  the  compMment, 
as  the  French  say,  of  Malaga ;  we 
mean,  of  course,  as  a  medical  sta- 
tion ;  and  when  the  passive,  indifferent 
Spaniard  shall  have  tasted  the  cup  of 
gold,  and  be  roused  to  enterprise  by 
the  prospect  of  lucre,  English  comforts 
will  doubtless  be  increased,  and  con- 
vert these  places  into  the  most  fre- 
quented medical  stations  in  Europe. 
Malaga  for  the  winter,  and  Granada  for 
the  spring  and  summer,  are  likely  to 
be  finally  adopted  as  residences  suited 
to  invalids,  to  whom  the  gradual  transi- 
tion between  the  two  would  be  more 
advantageous  than  to  return  to  England 
in  the  summer  after  a  winter  at  Malaga. 
Granada,  besides  its  interesting  sights, 
possesses  many  other  inducements  for 
a  protracted  residence : — Pleasant  walks 
along  the  Genii  and  Darro,  excursions 
in  the  environs,  ascents  on  the  moun- 
tains, shady  promenades  in  the  gardens 
of  the  Alhambra  and  Alameda,  some 
good  shooting  in  the  surrounding  sotos, 
a  public  library,  uninvestigated  to  this 
day,  and  whose  officials,  Sres.  Con- 
treras  and  others,  are  civil  and  obliging. 
There  is  also  here  a  constant  contrast, 
not  devoid  of  charms  and  strangeness, 
between  the  Alpine  character  of  the 
glaciers  of  Sierra  Nevada,,  the  hills 
snow-capped  in  the  vicinity,  the  wild 
mountain  torrents  of  the  Genii  and 
Darro,  aud  the  African  sun,  the  tropi- 


cal vegetation,  the  eastern  aspect  oi 
the  houses,  dress,  and  manners.  In 
summer,  owing  to  its  northern  aspect 
and  proximity  to  the  glaciers,  the  heat 
is  seldom  intolerable,  and  during  the 
winter  1883-4  it  was  our  lot  to  experi- 
ence its  rigor es;  and  we  can  testify  that 
had  the  house  we  lived  in  been  better 
constructed,  no  fires  would  have  been 
needed,  and  as  it  was,  they  were  only 
lighted  six  or  eight  times.  The  tem- 
perature changes  suddenly  in  winter. 
A  raw,  fresh  breeze  sweeps  over  the 
town  in  the  morning,  subsides  in  the 
middle  of  the  day,  and  the  N.E.  com- 
mences to  blow  about  dusk,  when  it  is 
sometimes  keenly  felt.  The  oscillatory 
movements  of  the  barometric  column 
take  place  then  on  a  scale  of  about  23 
milL  The  frequent  cases  of  nervous, 
and  a  variety  of  neuralgic  affections 
which  occur  at  Granada,  are  the  natural 
effects  of  the  prevalence  of  the  N.  and 
E.  winds,  whose  stimulant  action 
irritates  the  nervous  system. — (Dr, 
Cazenave.)  Anginae  and  affections  of 
the  stomach,  and  intermittent  fevers, 
which  are  observed  here,  are  principally 
owing  to  the  variability  of  the  climate, 
and  calculus  is  frequent ;  but  notwith- 
standing this,  Granada  is  very  healthy, 
and  no  endemic  illness  is  peculiar  to  its 
climate.  The  finest  and  most  pleasant 
months  are  April,  May,  and  the  begin- 
ning of  June. 

Death  Bate.— 1.20  in  the  capital. 
But  the  fact  must  not  be  lost  sight  of 
that  Granada  is  the  most  ignorant  pro- 
vince of  Spain,  and  that  the  larger  pro- 
portion of  the  deaths  arise  from  easily 
preventible  causes.  That  the  death  rate 
is  not  enormously  more  than  it  actually 
is  speaks  volumes  for  the  climate. 

There  were  thousands  of  lepers  found 
in  the  city  when  the  Catholic  kings 
visited  it  after  its  surrender  in  1492  ; 
and  they  founded,  in  consequence,  the 
magnificent   hospital   de  San    Lazaro 


GRANADA — PROVINCE. 


205 


However,  this  cruel  malady  was  at  no 
time  exclusively  characteristic  of  this 
healthy  and  favoured  region,  but  ex- 
tended itself  all  over  the  south  of  Spain 
from  a  very  early  period.  Already,  in 
the  13th  century  (1284),  King  St. 
Ferdinand  had  founded  the  hospital 
de  San  Lazaro  at  Seville.  Lepers  are 
fast  disappearing  in  Spain,  there  having 
been  only  176,  according  to  the  latest 
accounts  (1860).  The  principal  hospi- 
tals are  at  Granada,  Seville,  Coraiia, 
and  Barcelona.  At  the  first,  there  were 
only  56  cases  in  1860,  and  74  in  the 
preceding  year. 

METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS 

MADE  AT  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  GRANADA. 

Centigrade  Thermometer. 


Temperature 
of  Air. 

13 

•a 

(X 

£• 

Months. 

0 

Aver- 

Maxi- 

Mini- 

M 

1 

age. 
9.6 

mum. 
18.3 

mum. 

I.Z 

Q 
16 

o» 

December 

173-3 

January  . 
February 

6.7 

14.9 

0.6 

5 

52.8 

8-5 

18.5 

z.o 

9 

59-9 

March     . 

13.2 

25.2 

2-3 

5 

52.8 

April  .     . 

M-7 

27.0 

3-3 

8 

66.3 

May   .     • 

18. 1 

32.0 

6.0 

9 

50.6 

June  *    . 
July  •    • 

22.1 

34-1 

9-4 

1 

3-i 

25-9 

37-9 

12.9 

August    . 

29.1 

38-5 

17.8 

September 

22.7 

34-9 

10.5 

X 

3-* 

October  . 

18. 1 

28.8 

7-3 

7 

51-7 

November 

12.7 

21.5 

4-9 

9 
70 

69.2 

Totals     . 

582.8 

Average  annual  atmospheric  pi 

ressui 

•e  703.9 

„           „       temperature  . 

■ 

16.8 

Maximum  temperature,  Augu 

st  8  . 

38.5 

Minimum       ,,        „       Janua 
i , 

iry  2: 

0.6 

This  province  is  composed  of  plains 
and  mountainous  ranges,  the  principal 
of  which  are  Sierra  Nevada  to  the  S., 
the  slopes  of  which  are  almost  washed 
by  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  highest 
peak,  MulaHacen,  rises  11,723  ft. ;  the 
Sierra  de  Tejada,  to  S.  and"W.,  and  the 
Sierra  Morena  farther  to  the  N.,  thus 
forming    naturally    most     formidable 


ramparts  on  every  side  except  to  the  E. 
The  principal  rivers  are  the  Darro  and 
Genii ;  the  first  rises  4  leagues  from 
Granada,  close  to  Huetor,  and  the 
latter  takes  its  source  at  Giiejar,  in 
Sierra  Nevada,  and  joins  the  Darro  in 
the  vega,  which  both  irrigate,  and 
taking  in  several  minor  streams,  such 
as  Dilar,  Monachil,  Alfacar,  etc.,  flows 
through  the  Campos  de  Loja,  and  enters 
the  province  of  Cordova  through  Hiz- 
najar.  Owing  to  the  difference  in  the 
temperature  in  the  morning  and  the 
evening  on  Sierra  Nevada,  and  its 
influence  on  the  melting  of  its  snow, 
the  Genii  has  a  sort  of  ebb  and  flow, 
rising  in  the  evenings,  whilst  it  de- 
creases during  the  night.  The  Darro 
is  said  to  contain  particles  of  gold,  and 
some  poor  people  earn  lOr.  to  20r. 
a-day  in  these  diggings.  In  1526,  a 
crown  made  from  the  nuggets  found 
here  was  given  to  Isabel,  wife  of  Charles 
V.,  and  in  1862  the  municipality  pre- 
sented the  queen  with  a  large  one, 
supposed  likewise  to  have  been  the 
produce  of  this  river.  There  are  some 
mineral  springs,  and  those  especially 
of  Alhama  (saline  hot  springs)  are  con- 
sidered most  efficacious,  and  were  much 
resorted  to  by  the  Arabs  ;  the  ferrugi- 
nous carbonated  spring  of  Lanjaron  is 
also  frequented  for  the  diseases  attend- 
ant on  lymphatic  temperaments  ;  those 
of  Alomartes  and  Baeza  are  hydro-sul- 
phurous (for  diseases  of  the  skin).  The 
seasons  for  Alhama  are  April  to  June, 
and  September  to  October  (see  General 
Information  :  Mineral  Baths) ;  for  Lan- 
jaron (14  mineral  springs — hydrates  of 
magnesia  and  soda)  15th  June  to  15th 
September. 

The  province  abounds  with  mines 
(many  of  which  were  advantageously 
worked  by  the  Moors),  and  the  moun- 
tains abound  in  marble  and  metals. 
Antimony  is  found  atMotril  and  Aldeira. 
Zinc,  copper,  lead  and  silver,  are  also 


206 


GRANADA — PROVINCE. 


frequent.      Trade  generally,  however, 
is  exceedingly  limited,    and    consists 
chiefly  in  the  exportation  of  iron  and 
lead  ores,  refined    lead,   esparto    and 
fruit,   which    are    shipped  at    Motril 
and  Almeria.     There  is  not  one  single 
manufacture    of   silk    or    linen ;   and 
yet  there  was  a  time  when  the  silk 
trade  occupied  thousands  of  hands,  and 
the  produce  was  sent  to  Florence,  Pisa, 
Genoa,  and  the  Levant    The  vegas  and 
hills  were  then  clothed  with  the  mul- 
berry.    The  produce  of  each  farm  in 
the  vega,  under  the  Moorish  rule,  yielded 
on  an  average  about  £200  a-year,  and 
the  taxes  paid  by  the  farmers  to  the 
king  amounted  to  about  £20,000.     The 
silk  crops  that  belonged  to  the  Spanish 
monarchs  were  farmed  for  the  sum  of 
181,500  gold  ducats  a-year  ;  there  were 
130  mills  and  300  villages,  of  which  50 
contained   mosques,    and  50,000  men 
could  be  mustered  from  the  Alpujarras, 
Sierra,  and  plains.     But  the  low  price 
of  corn  and  other  produce  (the  former 
often  sold  for  20r.  the  fanega,  and  less) 
is  the  cause  of  the  poverty  of  the  people 
and  of   the  low  wages  (5r.  to  8r.   a 
mechanic,  5r.  a  labourer,  and  2£r.  at 
Loja,    Alhama,    and  the  Alpujarras)  ; 
and  these  evils  are  aggravated  by  the 
want  of  roads.     But  in  a  few  years  it 
may  be  expected  that    Granada  will 
enjoy   better    railway  communication 
with  the  principal  centres  of  consump- 
tion and  trade.     Already  the  following 
lines  are   in    construction    or   actual 
working :  (1)  From  Murcia  vid  Lorca 
and  Guadix  to  Granada,  with  branch 
lines  to  Aguilas  (junction,  Almendricos) 
and  to  Almeria  (junction,    Guadix) ; 
(2)  From  the  rising  seaport  of  Almeria 
to  Linares,  cutting  the  Madrid   line 
at  Baeza ;  (3)  From  Granada  to  Jaen, 
shortening  the  tedious  journey  north- 
wards vid  Bobadilla  and  Cordova. 

As  for  schools  or  public  education, 
there  is  little  or  none,  beyond  a  toler- 


ably well  -  managed  university  at 
Granada,  and  some  wretched  public 
schools  and  private  academies.  About 
100  in  1000  know  how  to  read  and 
write,  y  las  cuatro  rcglas,  and  out  of  a 
population  of  nearly  480,000  not  more 
than  25,000  attend  school  regularly. 

As  a  race,  the  Granadino  is  lively, 
intelligent,  bold,  and  the  women  are 
fascinating  and  graceful ;  but  neither 
is  the  former  as  elegant,  witty,  and 
irwqueur  as  the  Sevilian  majo,  nor  the 
latter  as  pretty  and  sprightly  as  the 
Malaguenas.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
Alpujarras,  the  descendants  of  the 
Berbers,  are  a  very  fine  race— hardy, 
honest,  grave,  sober.  The  men  are  tall 
and  handsome  ;  they  are  very  fond  of 
drawing  the  navaja  as  an  '  ultima  ratio, ' 
and  in  the  criminal  statistics  of  Spain 
this  province  ranks  as  the  second  for 
murder  and  maiming.  In  objects  of 
interest,  Granada  and  its  Alhambra  arc 
of  the  highest  order  in  Spain,  and  the 
Alpujarras  will  not  fail  to  interest  the 
artist,  geologist,  and  botanist ;  we 
recommend  pedestrians  who  may  have 
visited  and  scaled  every  peak  in  the 
Pyrenees  and  Switzerland  to  come  here 
and  explore  this  new  field,  which  has 
been  almost  closed  hitherto  to  scientific 
investigation. 

All  who  feel  an  interest  in  the  poetry 
of  the  past  are  doubtless  already  ac- 
quainted with  this  land  of  romance,  in 
which  every  tower  has  been  the  scene 
of  some  love-legend,  and  every  ruin  the 
record  of  some  chivalrous  deed.  To 
those  who  would  know  more  upon  this 
score,  and  as  a  fitting  preparation  pre- 
vious to  visiting  this  part  of  Spain,  we 
recommend  the  reading  of  Washington 
living's  '  Tales  of  the  Alhambra,' 
Prescott's  *  Ferdinand  and  Isabella/  and 
J.Y.Gibson's « Ballads '  (London,  1887). 

Granada  was  for  a  long  period  of  years 
the  seat  of  scholarship  in  Spain,  and 
gave  birth  to  some  most  eminent  writers 


GRANADA — PROVINCE. 


207 


and  artists.  Amongst  others  we  must 
mention  Fray  Luis  de  Granada  (1505). 
Hurtado  de  Mendoza  (1505),  who  wrote 
several  religious  works,  was  the  historian 
of  the  war  of  Granada,  and  author  of 
that  early  Gil  Bias,  '  Lazarillo  de 
Tonnes.'  Marmol  (1573),  the  author 
of  'Descripcion  de  Africa.'  Ponce  de 
Leon  (1529),  who  wrote  on  theology. 
Suarez  (1548),  one  of  the  most  learned 
Jesuits,  much  praised  by  Hugo  Grotius. 
In  arts  we  may  mention  Bocanegra 
(1660),  Alfonso  Cano  (1601),  and  Moya 
(1610),  all  celebrated  painters,  and  the 
second  a  great  sculptor  besides. 

The  best  time  to  visit  this  province 
and  make  excursions  in  the  mountains 
is  from  June  to  October.  April  and  May 
are  pleasant  months  at  Granada.  The 
Sierra  Elvira,  Tejada,  Huescar,  etc.,  are 
not  quite  so  Alpine  in  character,  or 
lofty  as  Sierra  Nevada,  but  more  pic- 
turesque and  woody. 

History.— After  the  battle  of  Guada- 
lete  (a.d.  711),  in  which  King  Rodrigo 
perished,  and  with  him  the  Gothic 
kingdom,  the  victorious  Tarik  advanced 
towards  Toledo,  whilst  he  entrusted  to 
his  lieutenants  the  subjugation  of  the 
surrounding  provinces.  The  conquest 
of  the  Illiberitan  region  was  assigned 
to  Zaid  Ibn  Eesadi,  who  soon  achieved 
it,  and  fixed  his  residence  in  Illiberis, 
the  capital.  The  exact  situation  of  this 
city  has  not  been  ascertained,  as  it  was 
completely  destroyed,  and  the  ruins 
partly  used  in  the  building  of  Granada ; 
but  according  to  the  Arab,  lbn-1-Jathib, 
and  some  other  writers,  it  must  have 
been  about  3  m  W.  of  Granada,  and 
close  to  Sierra  Elvira.  Illiberis  was  an 
important  place  under  the  Romans,  who 
had  fortified  and  enlarged  the  primitive 
Phoenician  city.  It  is  mentioned  as 
such  in  Pliny,  '  Hist  Nat.,'  and  was 
raised  to  a  municipium  under  the  empire. 
The  Goths  had  not  lost  sight  of  its 
natural  advantages,  and  maintained  its 


rank  as  metropolis  of  that  widely  ex- 
tending region.     It  was  a  bishop's  see, 
and  is  celebrated  in  the  annals  of  the 
Church  as  being  the  site  chosen  for  the 
first  council  held  in  Spain  (300  A. a). 
Granada  was  at  that  time  a  small  city, 
inhabited  chiefly  by  the  descendants  ol 
those  Jews  who  had  fled  from  the  per- 
secution of  the  Roman  emperors  in  the 
East,    and    had    been  dispersed    over 
various  parts  of  Southern  Europe.    The 
Amalekiles,  as  they  were  then  called, 
settled  in  Spain,  where  they  founded 
many  colonies.    They  were  of  very  high 
caste,  and  succeeded  in  acquiring  an 
independent    position    and    influence, 
which  at  first  they  used  to  promote  their 
commercial  interests,  but  subsequently 
extended  to  political  purposes.     Their 
enormous  riches  and  power  drew  upon 
them  eventually   the   distrust  of  the 
Goth,   who  persecuted  the  race  with 
merciless  envy  and  sectarian  hatred. 
The  Jews,  who  had  never  ceased  to 
hold  intercourse  with  the   Berbers — 
themselves  half  Jews  and  half  Pagans, 
and  who  had  always  looked  on  Spain 
as  their  special  prey — formed  a  plot, 
which  was  to  deliver  them  of  their  op- 
pressors, and  open  the  gates  of  every  city 
in  Spain  to  their  allies.     This  exten- 
sive plot  was  discovered,  and  led  only 
to  an  aggravation  of  rigour.      But  at 
length  the  Goth  was  overcome,  and  thus 
it  was  the  Jews  who  principally  as- 
sured the  success  of  the  Mohammedan, 
or  rather  Berber,  invasion  of  Spain. 
As  a  reward,  therefore,  of  their  support, 
the  Jews  of  Granada  were  allowed  in- 
dependent residence,  whilst  the  Arabs 
retained    Illiberis,  which  they  called 
Elvira  ;  just  as  Hispalis  (Seville),  was 
turned  into  Ixbilia,  and  Saetabis  (Jativa) 
became  Xathiba.      The  etymology  oi 
Granada,  which  the  Arabs  first  called 
Karnattah-al-Yahoud  (Granada  of  the 
Jews),  has  been  much  and  often  dis- 
cussed.     No    satisfactory  explanation 


208 


GRANADA — PROVINCE. 


has  been  given  of  this.     The  city  then 
was  most  probably  situated  on  the  site 
now  occupied  by  the  parish  of  San  Ceci- 
lio,  and  under  the  shelter  of  the  Torres 
Bermejas,   the  Red  Towers.     It  was, 
nevertheless,   made  dependent  of  the 
Wall,  or  governor,  of  Elvira.     About 
743,  thousands  of  Eastern  as  well  as 
African  colonists  came  to  Spain,  allured 
by  the  hope  of  riches  and  the  report  of 
the  climate,  so  like  their  own.     Dis- 
cord, originating  from  difference  of  race 
and  sects,  ensued,  to  settle  which  the 
Khalif  of  Damascus  decided  that  the 
third  of  the  remaining  lands  belonging 
to  the  Christians  and  Jews  should  be 
given  over  to  the  new  comers,  and  each 
tribe  settled  in  that  region  which  pos- 
sessed the   greatest  analogy  with  the 
native  country.    Thus,  to  the  Egyptians 
were  allotted  the  arid  plains  and  table- 
land of  Murcia  and  Estremadura.  Those 
who  came  from  the  mountainous  regions 
of  Palestine  fixed  themselves  in  the 
serrania  of  Ronda  and  Algesiras  ;  the 
legion  from  the  valley  of  the  Jordan 
chose    the    fields    of   Archidona    and 
Malaga,  and  10,000  Damascenes  settled 
in  the  province  of  Elvira,   which  re- 
minded them  of  the  sunny  land  they 
had  quitted.    Indeed  the  vega  appeared 
to  them  to  surpass  their  'Ghauttah '  in 
extent,  fertility,  and  beauty  ;  the  Genii 
was  not  unlike  the  Barada,  and  the  Sierra 
Nevada  bore  resemblance  to  the  snowy 
summits  of  Mount  Hermon.     In  their 
Oriental  style,  they  called  it  rapturously 
the  Sham  or  *  Damascus '  of  the  West — 
a  terrestrial  paradise,  whose  fountains 
were  pure  and  fresh  as  the  breath  of  the 
houris.    Here  the  myrtle  and  the  pome- 
granate, the  fig-tree  and  the  citron,  the 
olive  and  the  vine  grew  in  wild  luxu- 
riance ;    the  lofty  sierra  screened  the 
city  from  the  icy  north,  and  the  town 
rose  on  a  height,  like  a  throne  of  splen- 
dour, canopied  by  that  deep,  turquoise, 
spotless  sky  of   Spain    (which   really 


seems  like  a  reversed  Mediterranean )> 
'so  calm  and  soft,  and  beautifully  blue, 
that  God  alone  was  to  be  seen  in  hea- 
ven.'— (Byron.) 

We  hear  little  or  nothing  of  Granada's 
destinies  until  the  formation  of  the 
Ummeyah  empire  of  Cordova,  under  the 
rule  of  which  the  city  was  enlarged  and 
fortified.  The  Kadimah  (or  old  fortress) 
was  built  abSut  that  time,  and  shortly 
before,  the  Kal'at  Al-hamrd,  or  red 
castle,  was  erected  to  oppose  the  inroads 
of  the  disaffected  tribes.  On  the  dis- 
solution and  downfall  of  the  Ummeyah 
dynasty  (which  was  hastened  by  the 
death  of  its  chief  supporter,  Al-Mans- 
sour),  the  Mohammedan  empire  in  Spain 
was  broken  up  into  numerous  petty  in- 
dependent kingdoms,  or  tajtus.  Granada 
then  fell  to  the  lot  of  its  Berber,  Wall 
Zawi  Ibn  Zeyri,  who  became  its  first 
king.  The  importance  of  Granada  rose 
rapidly.  Its  palmiest  days  were  under 
the  Nazerite  dynasty,  which  was  founded 
by  Ibn-1-Ahmar,  the  builder  of  the  Al- 
hambra  palace.  During  his  glorious, 
yet  peaceful  reign,  it  became  the  em- 
porium of  the  West,  and,  according  to 
Arab  authorities,  boasted  a  population 
of  400,000  inhabitants,  besides  a  garri- 
son of  60,000  soldiers.  But  civil  strife 
(that  usual  Moslem  germ  of  death  and 
disunion)  and  petty  personal  jealousies 
amongst  the  governors  of  rival  cities, 
together  with  the  difference  of  races 
between  the  tribes  that  composed  the 
heterogeneous  court,  people,  and  ha- 
rem (that  typical  Camarilla),  all  has- 
tened the  dSnoueTnent  of  the  stirring 
and  poetic  drama  which  forms  her  his- 
tory, by  seconding  but  too  effectually 
the  plans  of  the  wily  and  daring  Chris- 
tian princes,  whose  covetousness  and  per- 
sonal ambition  went,  as  usual,  by  the 
more  popular  names  of  orthodoxy  and 
patriotism.  The  marriage  of  Ferdinand 
of  Aragon  with  Ysabel  of  Castile  sealed 
the  fate  of  divided  Granada  by  uniting 


LA  GRAftJA. 


209 


the  resources  of  the  nation  ;  and  after 
a  protracted  siege,  signalised  by  daily 
deeds  of  prowess  on  both  sides,  lie  city 
at  last  surrendered  on  June  2, 1492.  On 
the  morning  of  that  day  Boabdil,  on 
the  banks  of  the  Genii,  delivered  up 
the  keys  of  the  Alhambra  to  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  the  former  of  whom,  ac- 
cording to  Arab  chronicles,  compelled 
him  to  dismount  and  kiss  his  hand,  and 
addressed  him  in  very  harsh  terms.  The 
standards  of  the  Cross  of  .Castile,  Ara- 
gon,  and  Santiago  waved  on  the  shat- 
tered walls  of  the  Alhambra,  and  thus 
ended  the  Mohammedan  rule  in  Spain. 


Boabdil  and  his  followers,  after  spend- 
ing some  time  in  the  Alpujarras,  em- 
barked for  Fez  on  board  lie  very  ships 
which  had  escorted  Columbus  on  his 
second  voyage  to  America,  carrying 
with  him  his  riches,  which,  though 
much  diminished,  amounted  to  the  then 
enormous  sum  of  9,000,000  maravedis. 
Not  long  after  his  arrival  in  Morocco, 
where  he  had  met  with  a  hospitable  and 
honourable  welcome,  he  lost  his  life  in 
a  battle  fought  on  behalf  of  his  ally, 
thus  dying  for  a  cause  which  was  not 
his  own,  whilst  he  had  cowardly  de- 
serted the  interests  of  his  throne. 


GRAN  J  A  (LA). 


Routes  and  Conv. — From  Madrid 
by  the  northern  (Segovia  branch)  rail- 
way as  far  as  Navas  de  Rio  Frio,  from 
which  point  6  miles  E.  to  La  Granja. 
But  the  old  coach  route  from  Villalba 
Station  should  be  taken  if  practicable 
—  either  by  driving  in  five  hours, 
or  by  walking — for  the  sake  of  the 
splendid  scenery  as  one  crosses  the 
Puerto  de  Nava  Cerrada,  on  the  slope 
of  the  Penalara  (8500  ft.),  and  then 
dives  down  by  the  Siete  Vueltas  to 
the  village  of  Balsain.  From  Novem- 
ber to  February,  however,  the  road 
is  blocked  with  snow,  and  La  Granja 
must  be  approached  from  Navas 
or  Segovia  (frequent  coaches  from 
Segovia,  fare  pes.  1.50).  There  is 
also  a  picturesque  summer  route  from 
the  Escorial  over  the  Guadarrama 
range.  N.B. — The  fountains  only 
play  on  great  holidays :  Jan.  23,  May 
30,  July  24,  Aug.  25,  Sept.  11  and  24. 

Inn, — Hotel  Europeo  ;  good. 

General  Description. — La  Granja 
(the  Grange),  also  called  San  Ildefonso, 
is  a  Sitio  Real,  2  m.  from  this  stood 
formerly  the  Palace  of  Valsain,  which 
Philip  II.  had  embellished,  now  a  ruin. 
Philip  V.,  who  liked  the  surrounding 


country,  decided  on  building  a  palace, 
which,  as  usual,  was  not  only  to  equal, 
but  to  eclipse  Versailles.  La  Granja, 
situated  3840  ft  above  the  sea,  abun- 
dant in  water  and  trees,  appeared  to 
him  a  suitable  site.  This  grange  or 
farm-house  was  therefore  purchased 
from  the  Segovian  monks  of  El  Parral. 
The  works  were  begun  in  1719,  and 
completed  in  1746.  The  architects 
employed  were  Jubarra,  Sachetti,  Du- 
mandre\  Thierry,  etc.  But,  as  often 
happens,  when  this  golden  cage  was 
ready,  Philip  V.  died  (1746),  not  with- 
out having,  however,  sojourned  in  it 
for  some  months.  Charles  III.  built 
the  village,  and  made  several  important 
additions  to  it.  Every  year  the  court 
removes  to  this  palace  when  the  heat 
and  tercianas  begin  at  Aranjuez,  and 
usually  remains  July,  August,  and 
September. 

Palace. — The  principal  facade  looks 
towards  the  gardens.  The  central 
apartments  are  inhabited  by  the  royal 
family,  and  in  the  wings  the  household 
are  lodged.  The  modern  apartments 
are  airy  and  cheerful,  well  furnished, 
but  without  magnificence.  In  the 
lower  floor  there  is  a  good  collection  of 


210 


JEREZ. 


statues  and  antiquities,  which  was 
formed  by  the  celebrated  Queen  Chris- 
tina of  Sweden  ;  but  the  best  paintings 
and  marbles  have  been  removed  to  the 
Madrid  Museum.  The  Colegiata,  or 
Chapel  Royal,  was  designed  by  Arde- 
man  ;  it  is  in  nowise  remarkable.  The 
ceilings  and  domes  are  by  Bay  en,  Maella, 
and  other  mediocrities.  Observe  the  fine 
jaspers  which  compose  the  retablo,  the 
fine  lapis  lazuli  tabernacle,  the  tombs 
of  Philip  Y.  and  his  queen  Isabella 
Farnese(poor  French  work),  and,  especi- 
ally, the  splendidly  embroidered  vest- 
ments and  the  mantles  of  theVirgin.  The 
Gardens  are,  however,  the  great  attrac- 
tion here.  They  are  certainly  the  finest 
in  Spain,  and  held  by  Spaniards  as  very 
superior  to  those  of  Versailles.  Observe 
the  Cascade  Cenador,  a  grand  sheet  of 
falling  water,  which  glitters  gloriously 
in  the  sun.  There  are  twenty-six  foun- 
tains, many  of  them  very  remarkable ; 
the  principal  are  Fuente  de  las  Manas 
(or  the  frogs);  a  series  of  cascatels, 
called  La  Carrera  de  Caballos  ;  El 
Canastillo,  a  large  corbeille  of  flowers 
and  fruits  from  which  the  water  spouts 
en  gerbe,  forty  jets  in  number,  and  rises 
to  75  ft.  That  of  the  Fama  reaches 
130  ft,  and  the  Banos  de  Diana  is  an 
admirable  mythological  scene,  before 
which  the  never -would -be -amused 
Philip  V.  stopped  for  a  moment  when 
it  was  completed.  '  It  has  cost  me, '  he 
said,  'three  millions,  but  for  three 
minutes  I  have  been  amused ! '    The 


statues  most  admired  are  Apollo^ 
DapJine,  Lucrctia,  Bacchus,  America, 
etc.  The  usual  labyrinth,  Swiss  hills, 
etc,  commonly  seen  in  every  royal  gar- 
den, are  also  here.  The  rcscrvado,  or 
private  gardens,  which  contain  indiffer- 
ent conservatories  and  a  fine  orchard, 
El  Potosi,  require  a  special  papcleta. 

Excursions  can  be  made  to  El  Paular, 
riding  by  the  Beventon,  a  pass  from 
which  a  good  view  is  obtained  of  the 
Penalara  and  surrounding  mountains. 
El  Paular,  once  a  wealthy  Carthusian 
convent,  is  now  scarcely  worth  seeing, 
as  it  has  been  seriously  injured,  used  as 
a  glass  -  manufactory  etc.,  and  the 
paintings  removed  to  the  Madrid  Museo. 
It  was  erected  by  Juan  I.  of  Castile. 
The  church  dates  middle  of  the  15th 
century.  The  Capilla  de  los  Reyes  is 
the  work  of  Alfonso  Rodrigo,  1390. 
The  ceilings  were  painted  by  Palomino. 
There  are  two  or  three  fine  tombs. 
Close  by  is  also  the  indifferent  villa  of 
Queen  Christina,  called  Quita  Pesares. 
Six  miles  off  is  the  small  unfinished 
palace  of  Rio  Frio,  which  was  begun  by 
the  widowed  queen  of  Philip  V.  The 
boar-hunting  is  first-rate,  and  frequently 
enjoyed  by  the  Court 

Books  of  Reference. — 1.  '  Com- 
pendio  historico,  topog.,  etc.,  de  los 
Jardines  y  Fuentes  del  real  Sitio  de  San 
Ildefonso,'  by  Sedeno  ;  Madrid,  A.  Mar- 
tinez, 1825,  8vo.  '  Guia  y  descripcion 
del  Real  Sitio  de  San  Ildefonso,'  Bre- 
tanos  and  Castellarnau  ;  Madrid,  1884. 


JEREZ    (pr<m.t  herez). 


Hotels. — Fonda  de  los  Cisnes,  in  the 
Calle  Larga,  very  good.  Fonda  de 
Jerez,  Calle  de  las  Naranjas,  fair. 
Restaurants  at  the  hotels.  Tram  from 
station  to  Plaza  Alfonso  XII.,  15  c. 

Casino. — In  Calle  Larga.  English 
papers  taken  in. 

Post-Office. — In  the  Calle  de  Corre- 
dera.     Telegraph  Office. — Calle  Medina. 


British  Vice-Consulate  and  U.S.A. 
Consular  Agency. 

Bull-ring. — Fights  begin  in  May. 

Routes. — From  SevilU^  by  rail,  3  lire. 

From  Cadiz,  by  rail,  1J  hr. ;  dis.  30$ 
m.  ;  stations,  San  Fernando,  Puerto 
Real,  Puerta  Sta.  Maria,  through  a  rich 
wine-growing  country,  studded  with 
gay-looking  whitewashed  caserios. 


JEREZ*. 


211 


From  Gibraltar.    A  wild  ride  of  174 
leagues  across  picturesque  scenery. 

Itinerary.  Leagues. 

Gibraltar 

San  Roquc  to  la  Polvorilia     .     3} 
Alcala  de  los  Gazules  (sleep 

here) 4 

Paterna 5 

Terez 5 


(60  miles.) 


17* 


Alcald  de  los  Gazules.  —  A  decent 
posada  ;  8827  inhabitants,  close  to  the 
Barbate.  It  was  a  small  Roman  town 
fortified  by  the  Arabs,  and  which  be- 
came the  appanage  and  stronghold  of 
the  puissant  family  of  the  Gazules, 
whence  its  name,  Al  kabat,  the  fortress 
of  the  Gazules. 

Tne  castle  was  blown  up  by  the 
French  in  1811.  The  old  town  was 
perched,  so  to  speak,  on  a  lofty  hill 
surrounded  by  smaller  cerros  ;  nothing 
remains  of  it  save  portions  of  its  walls 
and  the  gates  called  Nueva  and  De  la 
Villa.  The  new  or  present  town 
stands  on  the  slopes  of  the  Cerro  de  los 
Arcos,  embosomed  amid  vines.  The 
city  contains  vestiges,  none  of  great 
importance,  of  the  15th  and  16th  cen- 
turies. In  its  plaza,  once  de  San  Jorge, 
now  de  la  Constitucion,  is  the  old  Par- 
roquia.  It  preserves  only  an  ogival 
portal,  with  pretty  statuettes  of  the 
15th  century,  when  it  was  built ;  all  the 
interior  is  classical,  with  precious  mar- 
bles and  fine  black  jasper  of  Pena 
Jarpa.  The  belfry,  some  180  ft.  high, 
is  built  of  brick  and  crowned  with  ex- 
quisite azulejo  work.  The  large  Domi- 
nican convent  de  las  Sagradas  Llagas, 
which  the  Marques  de  Tarifa  founded, 
has  been  turned  into  barracks  and 
stores. 

Paterna, — Formerly  an  appanage  of 
the  Duques  de  Alcala.  Here  are  crossed 
some  heights  which  divide  this  'small 
hamlet  from  the  Cuenca  of  the  Guad- 


alete,  the  celebrated  Cartuja  of  Jerez  is 
left  to  the  right,  and  in  the  distance, 
and  through  the  cortijos,  ranckos,  de- 
hesas,  all  things  of  semi- African  Anda- 
lusia, we  descry  Jerez,  one  of  the  pret- 
tiest Andalusian  cities. 

From  Ronda,  riding,  16  leagues.  A 
heavy  ride  across  the  Serrania  de 
Ronda,  but  which  can  be  performed 
with  all  safety. 


Itinerary. 
Ronda  to  Grazalema 
£1  Bosque 
Arcos  (sleep  here) 
Jerez 


Leagues. 

•  3 

•  3 

•  5 

•  5 


(50  miles.) 


16 


Leave  Ronda  at  6  A.  M.,  bait  the 
horses  and  breakfast  at  El  Bosque  at 
10  a.m.,  and  get  into  Arcos  at  about 
5.30  p.m. 

General  Description. — Jerez  de  la 
Frontera,  so  called  to  distinguish  from 
Jerez  de  los  Caballeros,  is  a  pleasantly 
situated,  sunny,  busy,  tidy  town.  It 
belongs  to  the  province  of  Cadiz,  and 
has  a  population  of  55,000  souls.  The 
houses  are  all  whitewashed  or  gaily 
painted,  with  elegant  miradores,  charm- 
ing cool  patios,  and  so  clean  and  fresh 
that  they  appear  but  just  built  There 
is  a  pretty  plaza  with  stone  seats  all 
round,  and  stately  palms  waving  their 
green  plumage  and  golden  fruit  in  the 
air.  There  is  great  couleur  locale 
about  the  houses  and  the  people,  who 
seem  to  have  retained  —  more  than 
any  other  Andalusian  province — all  the 
softness  of  manner,  the  gentleman-like 
bearing,  the  graceful  mien  and  atti- 
tudes and  refinement  of  the  Moora 
The  great  wine  (chiefly  sherry)  in- 
dustry, in  all  its  ramifications,  forms 
of  course  the  principal  interest  of 
the  place ;  but  besides  the  palace- 
like bodegas,  the  abode  of  Xing 
Sherry,  there  are  some  sights  which 
deserve     the     tourist's    attention  — 


212 


JEREZ. 


such  as  the  Alcazar,  Cathedral,  Church 
of  San  Miguel,  and  la  Cartuja  ;  but  all 
these,  and  the  renowned  bodegas,  can 
be  easily  seen  in  a  day,  by  commencing 
early,  and  returning  late  to  Cadiz  or 
proceeding  to  Seville. 

Historical  Notice.— Jerez  was  one 
of  the  earliest  Phoenician  colonies  in 
Spain,  the  'Asidoquse  Ca3sarina'  of  Pliny, 
and  not  the  Persian  Chiraz  as  many 
authors  have  erroneously  asserted.    The 
name  Xerez  Sidonia  is  found  on  Latin 
charts  of  the  13th  and  14th  centuries, 
Asidona  being  a  corruption  of  Asido. 
The  Mussulmans  turned  Gcesaris  Asi- 
dona into  Ceeris  Sidonia,  abbreviating 
it  finally  to  Cseris    alone.      [For    an 
account  of  this  and  of  the  first  campaign 
of  the  Moors,  see  D.  Eduardo  Saavedra's 
'Estudios  sobre  la  Invasion  de  los  Arabes 
en  Espana,'  Madrid,  1893.]    Close  to  it 
took  place  the  battle  of  the  Guadalete 
which  opened  Spain  to  the  invading 
Moor.  Ferdinand  III.,  el  Santo,  recovered 
it  in  1251,  but  it  was  retaken  by  the 
Moors,  to  be  regained  1264  by  Alfonso 
the  Learned,  who  granted  to  it  many  im- 
portant privileges,  and  peopled  it  with 
forty  hidalgos,  the  souche  of  the  present 
Jerezana nobility.  Fortifyingitconsider- 
ably,  he  styled  it  the  frontier  keep  of  An- 
dalusia, whence  its  name,  de  la  Frontera. 
In  the  municipal  archives  of  the  town 
there  still  exists  the  original  chart  of 
grant  signed  by  this  wise  and  learned 
king.     To  the  forty  gentlemen  who  be- 
came his  vassals,  he  grants  to  hold  in 
feud,   'houses,  six  aranzadas  of  vine- 
yards ;  two  of  huerta ;  fifteen  of  olive 
grounds,  six  aranzadas  of  carefully  plant- 
ed vines,  six  yugadas  (the  extent  which 
twelve  bullocks  can  plough  in  a  day) 
for  corn,  and  besides  200  maravedis  of 
the  king's  privy  purse.' 

Sights. — The  Alcazar. — This  pictur- 
esque old  palatial  fortress,  which  has 
been  the  scene  of  so  many  heroic  deeds, 
melancholy  confinements,  and  amorous 


scenes,  looks  as  if  it  had  been  but  just 
finished,  for  the  soft  climate  of  Anda- 
lusia preserves  monuments  in  all  their 
pristine  state.  Close  by  is  the  Fortuna 
de  Torre  promenade,  and  from  the  plat- 
forms of  its  Torre  del  Homenage  and 
the  octagonal  tower  to  the  left,  the 
views  extend  over  its  own  gardens,  and 
an  horizon  formed  by  Sierras  richly 
tinted  with  green  and  purple  hues,  and 
worthy  of  a  Gaspar  Poussin  or  a  Claude 
de  Lorraine.  Its  chapel  is  small  and 
circular,  and  was  founded  by  Alfonso 
the  Learned.  This  palace,  the  property 
of  the  youthful  Duke  of  San  Lorenzo, 
has  been  recently  repaired.  The  Salon 
del  Trono  and  patios  are  all  that 
attract  any  notice. 

tfrtlpbrai. — The  Colegiata  was  begun 
in  1695,  and  was  completed  by  Cayon, 
the  architect  of  the  Cathedral  of  Seville. 
It  is  a  good  (!)  specimen  of  churriguer- 
esque.  The  interior  is  large,  spacious, 
lofty,  but  in  pseudo-classical  bad  taste. 
Attached  to  the  cathedral  is  a  good 
library  and  monetario  collected  by  the 
Bishop  of  Siguenza,  Diaz  de  la  Guerra, 
a  native  of  Jerez. 

San  Miguel. — Its  facade  is  of  bastard 
Groco-Roman,  a  mask  hiding  a  former 
plain  but  not  inelegant  ogival  mediaeval 
front ;  there  are  Berninesque  pillars, 
statues,  and  details  in  questionable 
taste.  The  lateral  portals  have  retain- 
ed exquisite  portions  of  the  Gothic 
period.  The  Sagrario  is  a  Corinthian 
chapel,  also  indifferent.  The  interior 
is  very  elegant,  and  were  it  carefully  re- 
paired, would  be  most  striking.  It  be 
longs  to  the  period  of  decline,  when  it 
was  built  (1482).  It  consists  of  three 
naves  divided  by  massive  pillars,  from 
whose  plain  and  elegant  capitals  the 
ogival  arches  of  the  lateral  naves  spring, 
not  without  boldness,  and  which  sup- 
port the  groups  of  shafts  or  rods  in 
which  the  roof  of  the  centre  nave  rests. 
The  piers  of  the  transept  are  higher 


JEREZ. 


213 


than  the  rest,  composed  of  bundles  of 
shafts  and  elaborately  ornamented  with 
foliage,  niche-work,  and  mouldings. 
The  transept  is  most  profusely  orna- 
mented ;  the  lines  and  details  are  com- 
plicated, and  the  roof,  pillars,  arches, 
etc.,  are  exuberantly  loaded  with  tracery 
and  net-work.  Roberts'  picture  of 
this  transept,  though  poetised,  conveys 
a  just  idea  of  the  effect  produced.  Ob- 
serve in  the  presbytery  of  high  altar, 
not  the  three  orders  adapted  by  igno- 
rant restauradores  to  the  original  Gothic, 
but  the  excellent  bassi-relievi  by  Mon- 
tanes,  and  representing  Annunciation, 
Nativity,  Adoration,'  Circumcision, 
Transfiguration,  our  Lord  in  Limbo, 
and  St.  Michael,  for  which  he  received 
8200  ducats.  It  dates  about  1625.  All 
the  conditions  of  the  contract  between 
him  and  the  church,  with  the  detailed 
description  of  the  relievos,  how  they" 
were  to  be  executed,  etc.,  and  other 
curious  information  respecting  this  fine 
retablo,  may  be  found  in  the  archives 
of  this  church.  The  portals  inside  are 
elegantly  designed;  observe  that  of 
Capilla  del  Bautismo.  The  altar  and 
small  Chapel  de  las  Animas  has  a  re- 
tablo of  the  most  extravagant  painted 
sculpture  representing  the  souls  of  pur- 
gatory, en  person/tie,  with  St.  Michael 
above,  and  on  left  St.  Peter  holding  the 
keys.  Upon  the  reja  which  rails  it  in, 
and  at  intervals,  are  placed  five  wooden 
skulls,  all  crowned,  one  with  a  tiara,  a 
second  with  a  kingly  crown,  a  third 
with  a  Cardinalate  barretta,  etc. 

The  Capilla  del  Sagrario  is  richly 
ornamented  ;  the  windows  are  elegant, 
the  folding  doors  by  Berruquette :  the 
Christ  by  Montaiies. 

San  Ztionisio.  — An  exquisite  and 
well-preserved  example  of  the  Moro- 
Gothic  style  so  prevalent  in  Alfonso  el 
Sabio's  time.  The  facade  reminds  one 
of  the  earlier  churches  of  Cordova  and 
Seville.    Observe  the  painted  archivault 


of  portal,  with  flat  leaves  on  the  exter- 
nal moulding,  the  projecting  aleso  with 
dogs'  heads,  the  agimez  under  the  plain 
circular  windows,  and  the  stone-built 
tower  on  left  of  the  apse,  and  decorated 
with  horseshoe  agimeces  and  buttresses. 
The  apse  is  likewise  of  stone,  with  mas- 
sive buttresses  and  middle  -  pointed 
windows  decorated  with  delicate  mould- 
ings and  Byzantine  capitals.  The  spouts 
of  the  gutters  are  fantastically  shaped 
into  varied  forms  of  grotesque  animals, 
peeping  through  the  thick  weeds  and 
lichens,  and  produce  a  picturesque  effect. 
This,  one  of  the  finest,  and,  as  we  have 
already  said,  of  the  most  perfect  and 
well-preserved  specimens  of  the  Mude- 
jar  style  in  Spain,  was  built  and  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Dionysius  (to  whose  inter- 
cession he  considered  he  owed  the 
taking  of  Jerez)  by  Alfonso  the  Learned, 
middle  of  13th  century. 

Santiago  was  built  in  the  time  of  the 
Catholic  kings.  Observe  an  exquisite 
ogival  lateral  facade  of  the  third  period 
with  good  statues.  The  principal 
facade  was  awkwardly  repaired  and 
modernised  in  1663.  The  interior  is 
divided  into  three  elegant  naves  by 
ogival  arches  resting  on  pillars,  whose 
gilt  capitals  are  in  the  shape  of  crowns. 

Wine-Cellars. — These  Bacchus'  pa- 
laces are  the  style  of  architecture  which 
the  Jerezanos  admire  most ;  and  palaces 
they  truly  are  rather  than  cellars,  as 
some  of  them  consist  of  ten  or  twelve 
spacious  naves,  containing  upwards  of 
1 5, 000  botas.  They  are  shown  to  visitors 
on  application  to  the  proprietors  or  their 
principal  clerks,  daily,  except  Sundays, 
and  until  2  p.m.  All  the  different  pro- 
cesses practised  here  can  be  followed  in 
some  minutes,  from  the  pressing  of  the 
grape  to  bottling  ready  for  exportation. 

Of  the  bodegas,  those  of  the  Marques 
de  Misa  are  the  largest,  of  Senor 
Domecq  the  oldest.  Other  well-known 
names  are  Gonzalez,  Byass  &  Co.,  and 


214 


JEREZ. 


Gordon  and  Ramirez.  The  wine  is 
not  sold  on  the  spot,  nor  are  orders  for 
England  received,  as  this  would  be  a 
detriment  to  the  merchants'  English 
agents ;  besides  which  the  prices  really 
differ  little,  whether  purchased  in 
England,  or  at  the  bodega,  and  to  be 
shipped  afterwards.  The  different  sorts 
of  wine  are  generously  offered  to  taste ; 
and  the  best  qualities  are  left  for  the 
last.  At  Senor  Domecq's  (founded 
1730)  see  the  monster  casks  'Napoleon,' 
'Wellington,'  'Pitt,'  etc.,  also  taste 
the  exquisite  cognacs  (a  Domecq 
specialty).  See  also  Messrs.  Gonzalez 
and  Co.  s  model  bodega.  (For  particu- 
lars of  the  sherry  manufacture  and 
trade  cf.  'Sherryana,'  by  F.  W.  C, 
London,  1887.) 

The  Gartuja. — Three  miles  from  Je- 
rez, twenty-five  min.  drive  in  a  calesa. 
A  good  carretela  may  be  also  procured 
for  from  25r.  to  30r.  (6  shillings)  there 
and  back.  Close  to  this  old  Carthusian 
convent  rolls  the  Guadalete,  the  Chrysos 
of  the  Greeks  and  Romans,  from  its 
yellow  waters ;  the  Arab's  river  of 
delight,  Wad-al-leded.  On  its  banks 
the  celebrated  battle  was  fought,  July 
26,  711,  between  the  disorganised  ef- 
feminate army  of  Don  Rodrigo  and 
the  Berber  undisciplined  but  wiry  bold 
tribes  of  Tarik  and  Moussa.  The  car- 
tuja  was  founded  in  1477,  by  Don 
Alvaro  Obertos  de  Valeto,  who  is 
buried  here,  and  died  1482.  The  plater- 
esque  portions  were  executed  in  the 
middle  of  the  16th  century.  The  prin- 
cipal facade  was  the  work  of  Andres 
de  Ribera,  1571.  Four  large  fluted 
Doric  pillars  flank  the  superb  circular 
arched  portal.  The  niches  are  filled 
with  statues  of  the  Virgin,  St.  Bruno, 
and  St.  Austin.  Over  the  cornice  is  a 
front  with  effigy  of  God  the  Father. 
This  portal  leads  to  a  sj>acious  patio, 
in  which  is  the  bastard  Corinthian 
facade  of  the  church,  dating  1667,  and 


over-ornamented  with  details  and  indif- 
ferent statues  of  saints.  There  are 
three  patios  or  cloisters  within,  the 
principal  of  which  is  classical,  and 
with  twenty-four  white  marble  pillars. 
The  second  is  a  claustrillo,  with  four 
plain  pillars  and  delicate  Byzantine 
leaf-work  on  the  capitals.  It  belongs 
to  the  Gothic  of  decline  as  well  as  the 
third  period.  Little  remains  here  now, 
save  the  empty  cells,  an  old  cross,  and 
some  cypresses,  of  what  was  once  the 
wealthiest  monastery  in  this  part  of  the 
world,  a  repository  of  arts  and  a  school  of 
learned  and  wise  men,  who  were  first-rate 
farmers  and  the  most  celebrated  horse- 
breeders  in  Andalusia.  Most  of  its 
finest  Zurbarans  were,  at  the  suppression 
of  the  convent,  sent  to  France  and  Eng- 
land, and  have  been  sold  for  a  song  at 
the  sales  of  Louis  Philippe's  and  Mr. 
Standish's  collections  in  1853  ;  the  rest 
were  removed  to  and  are  now  at  the 
Cadiz  Picture  Gallery  (Museo).  The 
Yeguada,  or  breeding  stables,  were  sup- 
pressed in  1836,  and  the  vineyards  sold. 
In  the  distance,  near  La  Cartuja,  rises 
a  small  hill,  El  Real  (the  camp)  de 
Don  Rodrigo,  where  this  ill-fated 
monarch  had  his  head-quarters  during 

the  battle. 

Arcos  de  la  Frontera  (5  leagues),  15,203 
inhabitants.  A  good  posada  outside  the  town 
on  the  Jerez  road. 

This  ancient  city  rises  picturesquely  on  the 
S.E.  slopes  of  a  huge  Mons-Serratus,  whose 
base  is  watered  by  the  Guadalete,  which 
girdles  almost  all  the  town,  and  is  joined  amid 
its  fertile  plains  by  the  Majaceite.  The  view  ol 
the  distant  blue  hills  of  the  Sierra  blending 
with  the  sky  is  charming  from  its  high  Plaza 
del  Ayuntamiento.  It  was  recovered  from  the 
Moors  in  1234  by  the  Infante  D.  Enrique,  son 
of  St.  Ferdinand.  It  fell  again  into  the  hands 
of  the  Moors,  and  was  finally  recovered  and 
peopled  by  Alfonso  el  Sabio  in  1264.  It  was 
the  Arco  Briga  of  the  Iberians,  and  Arci 
Colonia  of  the  Romans.  Its  important  position 
as  the  key  of  the  Seville  and  Ronda  regions 
on  that  side  caused  it  to  be  called  de  la  Frwt- 
tera,  which,   moreover,   distinguishes  it   froo: 


LEON. 


215 


several  other  arcos.  Ecclesiologists  will 
notice  the  San  Pedro  Church,  which  contains 
one  of  the  finest  retablos  of  the  15th  century  in 
all  Andalusia.  Its  compartments  represent 
scenes  from  the  life  and  martyrdom  of  the 
tutelar.  The  church,  which  dates  of  15th  cen- 
tury, has  been  vilely  modernised.  That  of 
Sta.  Maria  is  a  fine  example  of  the  Gothic  of 
the  time  of  the  Catholic  kings,  but  is  unfinished. 
Observe  its  magnificent  portal ;  its  lintel,  tym- 
panum with  statuettes  and  niche  work. 
The  interior  is  divided  into  three  naves.  The 
lateral  one  very  narrow,  and  as  high  as  the 
central.  The  columns  elegant  and  plain.  The 
details  round  the  window  very  curious,  and 


many  most  elegant  Observe  also  the  exqui- 
site plain  Gothic  portal  of  the  house  of  Conde 
del  Aguila,  and  its  charming  Moro-Gothic 
agimez  window. 

There  is  a  decent  posada  at  £1  Bosque  (10 
leagues).  Between  its  termino  and  that  of 
Prado  del  Rey  is  the  abundant  source  of  water 
which  turns  into  excellent  salt,  and  is  called 
Salinas  de  Hortales. 

Grazalema  (13  leagues).  —  Posada  de  la 
Trinidad;  7549  inhabitants.  It  was  one  of 
the  feats  of  the  esforzado  Rodrigo  Ponce  de 
Leon  to  capture  this  then  important  stronghold 
— the  '  Lacidulia'  of  the  Romans.  It  stands  on 
a  rocky  hill 


LEON    (Province  of). 


Geographical. — The  former  Reino 
de  Leon  has  been  divided  into  the  five 
present  provinces  of  Salamanca,  pop. 
262,383  ;  Leon,  pop.  340,244  ;  Vallado- 
lid,  pop.  246,981  ;  Palencia,  185,955  ; 
and  Zamora,  pop.  248,502  ;  total, 
1,284,065.  The  extent  comprised  by 
them  is  some  20,000  square  miles.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Montes  de 
Leon,  a  ramification  or  branch  of  the 
Sierra  de  Asturias ;  on  the  E.  by  the 
plains  of  Castilla  la  Vieja,  Sierras  de 
Oca,  de  Urbiad,  on  the  S.  by  the  Sierra 
de  Gata,  de  Francia  (5202  ft.  above  the 
level  of  the  sea),  Sierra  de  Avilla,  which 
separates  it  from*  Estremadura  and 
Castile ;  and  on  the  W.  by  the  Sierra 
de  Porto,  Portugal,  and  province  of 
Coruna.  The  piincipal  rivers  are  the 
Luna,  Orbigo,  Perma,  Esla,  Ormana, 
Bernesga,  from  N.  to  S.,  which  all 
empty  themselves  into  the  Ducro  "and 
the  Tormes.  The  principal  hilly  dis- 
tricts are  Laceana,  Babia,  Arguelles, 
Omana.  The  southern  slopes  of  the 
range  of  hills  that  divide  Asturias  from 
Leon  are  less  rapid  and  steep  on  this 
side,  but  like  the  other  in  aspect  and 
variety.     The  peaks  and  more  elevated 


plateaux  are  covered  with  almost  per- 
petual snow ;  a  wild  vegetation  pre- 
vails in  its  gorges ;  the  beech-tree, 
oaks  (Quercus  robur  and  Quercus  ilex), 
grow  luxuriantly.  The  plains,  extend- 
ing to  some  361  leagues,  are  wind- 
blown, treeless,  but  corn-growing,  or 
consist  of  pasture-land. 

History. — This  kingdom  was  the 
second  in  Spain  (Asturias  the  first) 
which  rose  against  the  Mussulman,  and 
began  that  long  reaction  and  struggle 
between  North  and  South,  Christianity 
and  Mohammedanism,  which  lasted  up- 
wards of  seven  centuries.  Pelayo, 
King  of  Oviedo,  captured  Leon  from 
the  Infidel,  and  founded  its  independ- 
ence. Alfonso  the  Catholic  (a.d.  739- 
57)  extended  the  limits  of  the  reino 
beyond  the  Duero  to  the  frontiers  of 
Estremadura.  Castile,  under  Count 
Fenian  Gonzalez,  became  separate  from 
Leon,  to  which  it  belonged,  but  was 
once  more  annexed  to  it  by  marriage, 
and  finally  absorbed  it.  The  first  who 
was  styled  King  of  Leon  and  Castile 
was  Ferdinand,  son  of  Sancho  the 
Great.  His  heir,  Sancho  el  Fuerte 
celebrated  for  being  one  of  the  dramatis 


216 


LEON, 


persmws  in  that  dramatic  poem  the 
'  Romancero  del  Cid, '  was  treacherously 
murdered  at  the  siege  of  Zamora,  by 
Belledo  Dolfos.  Alfonso  VI.,  his  bro- 
ther, who  had  ordered  this  crime,  was 
raised  to  the  throne  under  the  name  of 
King  of  Leon  and  Castile.  The  two 
kingdoms  were  often  severed  and  united 
again  by  civil  wars,  and  finally  joined 
at  the  death  of  Alfonso  IX.  in  the  per- 
son of  St.  Ferdinand.  The  Moors  never 
settled  down  regularly  in  Leon — not 
from  the  valour,  indomitable  energy, 
etc.,  of  the  inhabitants,  who  were  driven 
by  them  from  Toledo  into  the  moun- 
tain fortresses,  but  because  the  cold, 
damp  climate,  the  poverty  of  the 
people,  the  wretchedness  found  in  cities 
and  villages,  churches  and  palaces,  did 
not  tempt  them.  They,  therefore, 
limited  themselves  to  periodical  raids, 
carrying  off  cattle,  sheep,  and  grain, 
and  destroying  everything  with  fire  and 
sword.  The  most  celebrated  inroads  of 
the  Moors  took  place  under  Almans- 
sour,  the  Moorish  Cid  ;  the  first  in  996, 
against  Santiago,  when  all  was  razed  to 
the  ground ;  and  the  next  in  1002, 
when  the  great  hero,  ill  and  weak  as  he 
was,  assembled  20,000  men  at  Toledo, 
and  devastated  the  country  on  all  sides. 
The  kingdom  of  Leon  did  not  easily  re- 
cover from  the  constant  inroads  of 
the  Moor  and  civil  war,  and  to  this  day 
is  far  behind  every  other,  save  Castile 
and  Estremadura,  in  agriculture,  trade, 
etc. 

Character  and  Dress.  — The  Leon- 
eses  differ  considerably  in  character,  ac- 
cording to  the  nature  of  the  different 
regions  which  they  inhabit.  Thus  the 
highlanders  and  parameses  (paramo,  an 
elevated  plateau  or  table-land)  are  tem- 
perate, peaceful,  hard-working,  and 
active,  whilst  those  of  the  plains,  and 
more  especially  those  who  live  on  the 
banks  of  the  Orbigo  and  Sil,  are  indo- 


lent, dull -minded,  dirty,  and  boorish. 
On  the  whole  they  are  a  loyal  and 
honest  people,  fond  of  home  (and  what 
home  !),  old  customs  and  costumes,  far 
from  handsome  ;  hospitable  and  kind- 
hearted,  but  rude  and  ignorant,  princi- 
pally given  to  pasturing,  arrierism, 
and  basking  in  the  sun,  when  it  hap- 
pens to  shine.  There  is  great  poverty 
in  large  and  small  cities,  an  absentee 
nobility,  and  an  overgrown  clergy. 

The  dress  of  the  Leoneses  is  peculiar. 
The  charro  and  charra  are  the  Leonese 
majo  and  maja.  Their  costume  con- 
sists, for  the  men,  of  a  slouched  hat, 
an  embroidered  shirt,  a  short  velvet 
waistcoat  enlivened  with  square  silver 
buttons  and  ribbons,  a  cloth  jacket 
with  velvet  edgings  at  the  elbows,  long 
cloth  gaiters  embroidered  beneath  the 
knee,  and  a  broad  leather  belt  round 
the  groins,  large  silver  buckles  in  the 
shoes.  The  charra's  dress  is  very  be- 
coming :  a  red  velvet  boddice,  jufion, 
with  bugles  intricately  worked  into 
different  patterns ;  a  scarlet  or  purple 
petticoat,  manteo,  embroidered  with 
stars,  birds,  flowers;  a  narrow  apron, 
mandile,  embroidered  also  j  a  sash  tied 
up  behind ;  a  square,  somewhat  short, 
cloth  mantilla,  el  ce7iererof  fastened  by 
a  silver  clasp,  corchete;  a  caramba  in  her 
hair ;  wrist-cuffs  wrought  with  gold ;  a 
gold -worked  handkerchief,  rebocUloj 
jewels  and  chains  with  coloured  stones 
— all  heirlooms — complete  the  female 
dress,  one  of  the  most  picturesque  in 
Spain. 

Maragatos. — The  origin  of  this  race, 
which  inhabits  the  district  around  As- 
torga,  has  not  been  ascertained.  Some 
writers  derive  it  from  a  Celtiberian  ori- 
gin, others  assert  it  as  a  Berber  descent. 
Dozy,  the  learned  Orientalist  of  Ley- 
den,  states  that  they  are  the  remnants 
of  the  Malagoutos,  who  inhabited  Mala- 
Gothia,  a  part  of  the  Campi-Gothici 


LEON 


217 


and  who  by  marriage,  etc.,  had  become 
Christians.  A  chronicler  calls  them  in 
784,  '  The  Highlanders  of  Malacoutia.' 
Many  of  them  held  lands  about  Leon 
and  Astorga  when  these  two  cities  were 
repeopled,  and  their  priests  had  names, 
all  or  mostly  purely  Arab,  such  as  Ma- 
hamudi,  the  deacon  ;  Hilal,  the  abbot; 
Airef,  the  priest,  etc.  They  embraced 
the  nonconformist  doctrines  in  the  8th 
century,  and  rose  against  the  self- 
called  orthodox  Arabs.  ('Recherche 
sur  l'Hist.  et  la  Litt.  de  l'Espagne,' 
2d  ed. ;  Leyden,  1860,  vol.  i.  p.  135). 
Mr.  Dozy  finds  great  similarity  between 
their  dress  and  that  of  the  Berbers  of 
the  present  day.  However,  on  examin- 
ing with  attention  all  the  different 
dresses  worn  by  the  Moors  of  Spain,  in 
carvings  and  pictures  contemporary  of 
their  dominion  in  Spain,  the  pictures 
at  the  Alhambra,  the  bassi-relievi  of 
the  Capilla  Real  at  Cathedral  of  Gra- 
nada, etc.,  one  cannot  find  any  re- 
semblance, and  must  incline,  in  our 
humble  opinion,  to  ascribe  to  them 
another  origin.  Senor  Diaz-Jimenez 
(see  Boletin  de  la  Ileal  Academia  de 
la  Historia,  torn.  xx.  123,  Madrid, 
1892)  asserts  with  very  excellent 
reasoning  that  these  Maragatos  were 
an  early  migration  of  Mozarabes  from 
Andalusia,  in  the  9th  century.  Even 
as  late  as  the  11th  century  many  Ber- 
ber families  were  living  near  Leon,  and 
were  mentioned  in  Alfonso  V.  's  '  Fuero 
de  Leon,'  art.  1st.  The  dress  varies 
somewhat  at  Zamora  and  Salamanca. 

Agriculture  and  Mines.  —  The 
plains — tierra  de  campos — of  Palencia, 
Zamora,  and  Valladolid,  are  among 
the  best  corn-growing  countries  in 
the  world.  In  the  province  of  Leon, 
sheep  are  principally  reared,  and  of 
these  it  formerly  possessed  upwards  of 
396,000  head.  The  hills  produce  ex- 
cellent timber,  and  orchards,  yielding 


exquisite  cherries,  apples,  etc.,  clothe 
the  slopes  of  the  hills,  and  stretch 
along  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  in  the 
vicinity  of  towns.  Excellent  cheese 
and  butter  are  made  in  the  hilly  re- 
gions, but  not  at  Leon.  Garbanzos, 
good  heady  red  wine,  made  at  Toro, 
and  mules,  are  also  local  products. 
There  are  some  mines  in  the  reino,  once 
celebrated  for  the  '  MeMulas '  mines  of 
gold  and  vermilion,  which  Pliny  the 
Younger  managed  for  some  time,  and 
said  to  deserve  being  worked  again. 
The  excavations  are  curious  and  worth 
a  visit.  Antimony,  iron,  and  coal-beds 
are  also  found,  but  yield  unimportant 
quantities.  The  Sil  is  said  to  carry  in 
its  waters  traces  of  gold,  as  the  Darro 
in  Andalusia,  and  several  other  rivers 
both  in  the  Spanish  and  French  Pyre- 
nees. The  Northern  and  Palencia 
railways  to  Ponferrada  are  calculated  to 
give  great  impulse  to  trade  and  agri- 
culture, and  develop  the  great  re- 
sources of  this  country. 

Climate* — We  entreat  tourists  to 
avoid,  above  all  things,  visiting  this 
part  of  Spain  either  in  summer  or  win- 
ter. In  the  former  period,  the  heat 
and  glare,  the  sandy  roads,  and  furnace 
breath  of  evening,  affect  the  stomach, 
bring  on  cerebral  congestions  and  Leon- 
ese  doctors  —  a  still  severer  illness, 
from  which  few  will  recover.  During 
winter  the  wind-blown  plains,  icy 
northern  blasts,  and  roads  (impassable) 
with  snow,  are  enough  to  deter  any  one. 
The  best  months  for  the  visit  are  April 
and  May,  or  September,  October,  and 
beginning  of  November.  The  roads 
are  admirably  engineered  and  well  kept. 
The  hills  ought  to  be  visited,  especially 
during  the  summer,  and  the  beautiful 
scenery  of  the  sierras  and  Vierzo.  An- 
glers should  not  forget  their  rods,  as 
they  will  find  sport  in  the  Sil,  Oebigo, 
Cea,  etc. 


218 


LEON. 


Leon. — Capital  of  province  of  Leon, 
pop.  about  12,000 ;  bishopric.  For 
details  of  province  see  page  215. 

Boutes  and  Conveyances. —  1st, 
From  Madrid  or  Bayonne  by  rail.  From 
Madrid  by  the  Palencia  and  Ponferrada 
line.  Distance  from  Palencia  to  Leon, 
76  m. ;  time,  3  hrs. ;  morning  and  even- 
ing trains,  both  at  inconvenient  hours. 
Fares,  1st  cl.,  Pes.  14.15  ;  2d  el.,  10.65 ; 

8d  cL,  6.40. 

Description  of  Route  from  Palencia 

to  Leon. — The  route  is  not  interesting, 
and  the  towns  are  small,  thinly-peopled, 
and  backward.  Paredes  de  Nava  is 
close  to  a  most  ague-feeding  lake.  There 
is  some  fine  sculpture  by  Alfonso  de 
Berrugete  in  the  church  of  Sta.  Eulalia. 
The  route  now  lies  amid  flat  corn-fields, 
often  inundated  by  the  Esla,  and  pro- 
ducing tercianas  (ague).  There  are  a 
desolation  and  a  want  of  human  life 
about  these  extensive  windblown  plains 
which  fill  the  mind  with  ennui  This 
feeling  is  strengthened  by  the  sombre- 
coloured  dress  of  the  peasantry  (brown 
cloaks,  black  jackets,  and  chocolate 
breeches),  and  with  the  expression  of 
their  faces,  which  is  that  of  monoto- 
nous, vacant,  selfish  concern,  common 
to  all  corn-growing  farmers,  who  reap 
bread  which  the  sun  cultivates,  and 
the  indulgent  God  seldom  refuses.  The 
rare  mud  and  straw- built  cottages  do 
not  enliven  the  tableau. 

Sahagun. — So  called  from  the  local 
patron,  St.  Tagunt,  who  was  martyrised 
with  San  Primitivo,  168  of  Christ. 
Visit  the  celebrated  Abbey,  though  now 
considerably  ruined  and  desolate.  It 
was  a  Benedictine  monastery,  founded 
in  872,  and  rebuilt  in  905.  The  church 
was  begun  by  Alfonso  VI.  (1121),  and 
finished  in  1183.  It  was  once  the 
wealthiest  abbey  in  Spain,  possessed 
boundless  territories,  and  had  jurisdic- 
tion over  ninety  convents.     In  the  11th 


century  it  reached  the  height  of  its 
fame ;  and  the  wealth,  power,  great 
learning  and  piety  of  its  monks,  made 
it  the  Cluny  of  Spain.  It  was  the  resi- 
dence of  Alfonso  IV.  Queen  Constance 
of  Burgundy  built  a  magnificent  palace 
close  to  the  abbey,  at  which  time  the 
city  was  thickly  peopled  with  Burgun- 
dians,  English,  and  Lombards.  She 
also  built  a  church  in  her  palace,  where 
at  her  death  (1093)  she  was  interred. 
On  the  death  of  Alfonso  IV.  all  went 
amiss.  The  gates  of  the  city  were 
opened  to  the  Aragonese  ;  Alfonso  el 
Batallador  sacked  the  abbey  and  con- 
vents ;  civil  war  broke  out ;  the  Guilds 
of  Shoemakers,  Tanners,  and  Jugglers 
sided  with  the  burgesses  against  the 
encroaching  monks,  who  were  termed 
'  Gargantones'  and  'Beberrones ;'  until, 
moved  at  last  by  these  same  monks,  the 
Pope  issued  severe  bulls  against  the 
rebels,  whose  burgesses  and  their  princi- 
pal instigator,  Count  Beltram,  appeared 
before  the  Council  at  Burgos  (1117), 
and  submitted. 

Besides  Alfonso  IV.  the  monastery  has  been 
the  refuge  and  retina  of  Bermudo  I.  (791), 
Ramiro  II.  (950),  Sancho  of  Leon  (1007).  The 
foreign  invader  and  fire  have  now  almost  de- 
stroyed whatever  of  art  and  beauty  it  possessed. 

If  halting  here,  visit  the  church  of  San  Tirso, 
with  fine  remains  of  xath  century  work,  the 
church  of  San  Lorenzo,  and,  6  m.  off,  the  fine 
Romanesque  monastery  of  San  Pedro  de  las 
Duenas. 

2d,  From  La  Coruha,  etc.;  two  trains  per 
day  in  14  hours. 

3d,  From  Gijon  and  Oviedo,  by  the  grand 
Puerto  de  Pajares  line ;  two  trains  per  day  in 
6J  and  $\  bj*s«  respectively. 

Hotels. — Fondas  Pueda,  Iberia,  and 
Paris,  all  poor :  from  7  pesetas.  A 
good  hotel  much  needed.  The  city  is 
1  m.  distant  from  the  station. 

Cafe'.—  El  Suizo. 

Club. — El  Casino  Leonds. 

Postal  and  Telegraph  Offices. — Calle 
Cuatro  Naciones. 


LEON. 


219 


Promenades. — Paseo  de   San   Fran- 
cisco ;  Papalaguinda,  near  the  river, 

General  Description. — Leon,  once 
the  capital  of  a  powerful  monarchy 
which  extended  from  the  shores  of  the 
Atlantic  to  the  banks  of  the  Rhone,  is 
nothing  now  but  a  large  agricultural 
village,  silent  and  backward.  It  de- 
rived much  of  its  importance  as  the  seat 
of  the  court  of  the  emperor  (Alfonso 
VII. ,  1135),  whose  courtiers  lorded  it 
over  Navarre,  Cataluna,  Biscay,  Gas- 
coigne,  etc. ;  but,  like  other  capitals 
which  have  had  nothing  else  to  depend 
upon  but  this,  prosperity  and  wealth 
may  be  said  to  have  come  and  gone  in 
their  train.  There  are  a  few  noblemen 
who  still  continue  to  reside  here,  in  their 
ancient  and  dilapidated  mansions  ;  but 
their  lands  have  mostly  passed  away, 
through  indolence  and  pride,  sometimes 
into  the  hands  of  their  own  stewards, 
who  were  better  able  to  manage  them. 
The  scanty  population  is  chiefly  com- 
posed of  well-doing  farmers,  petty  em- 
ployes, maragatos,  and  arrieros.  Be- 
sides, as  Leon  is  a  Levitical  city,  there 
is  a  very  numerous  staff  of  capellanes, 
easily  made  out  by  their  cocked-hats 
and  sotanas,  who  live  upon  the  revenues 
of  the  cathedral,  now  much  out  of  pro- 
portion, though  recently  curtailed,  and 
a  crying  anomaly  in  the  decayed  and 
impoverished  city. 

Leon  may  be  said  to  lie  now  in  torpid 
lethargy,  shrouded  in  the  magnificence 
of  her  past,  and  taking,  it  would  appear, 
an  eternal  siesta  under  the  shade  of  her 
glorious  cathedral.  Here  may  be  seen 
the  boyero's  creaking  cart  with  spoke- 
less wheels,  which  two  heavy  oxen  drag 
lazily  along,  whilst  the  master  stands 
by  leaning  on  his  lance-shaped  gavilan, 
almost  as  immovable  as  an  antique  bas- 
relief,  and  strings  of  velvet-coated  mules, 
carrying  salt  fish,  dozing  as  they  walk 
to  the  monotonous  sound  of  jingling 


oascabcles,  and  led  by  wide-breeched 
maragatos  with  umbrella- sized  slouched 
hats,  and  the  early-to-bed  and  early-to- 
rise  labrador  (which  does  not  seem  to 
make  him  more  wise),  humming  a  song 
as  he  rides  crosswise  on  the  pole  of  his 
plough.  Scenes  like  this  are  all  that  ani- 
mates the  narrow,  ill -paved  streets.  Leon 
has  thus  preserved  its  Gotho-Castilian 
character,  with  all  its  couleur  locale,  old 
habits,  customs,  and  costumes,  and  may 
be  regarded  as  the  key  to  that  terra  in- 
cognita, never  properly  investigated, 
which  comprises  the  province  of  Leon, 
Asturias,  and  Galicia,  generally  called 
the  Switzerland  of  Southern  Europe. 
The  shrill  whistle  of  the  railway  engine, 
it  is  to  be  hoped,  will  awake  the  Leon* 
eses,  and  usher  their  mediaeval  city  into 
the  light  and  active  life  of  the  19th  cen- 
tury. Its  very  situation  on  the  high 
road  between  the  ports  of  Galicia  and 
Asturias,  and  the  granaries  of  the  Cas- 
tiles,  seems  to  invite  prosperity,  and 
point  a  future  rival  to  Valladolid 
Manufactories — those  cathedrals  of  mo- 
dem times — might  be  erected  in  these 
plains,  so  abundantly  watered  by  three 
rivers.  But  that  great  curse  of  Spain, 
want  of  population,  though  larger  now 
than  it  has  ever  been,  is  nowhere  felt 
more  than  here.  Thus,  on  a  surface  of 
15,971  square  kil.,  the  population  is 
368,000,  of  which  about  half  a  dozen 
are  foreign  residents,  with  a  thin  stream 
of  tourists  (transeuntes). 

The  man  of  pleasure,  and  the  invalid, 
will  do  well  to  avoid  this  dull,  gloomy, 
Goth  town,  but  not  so  the  antiquary 
and  all  real  travellers,  for  whom  Leon 
holds  in  reserve  treasures  of  the  Byzan- 
tine, Gothic,  and  Plateresque  periods  of 
architecture,  besides  which,  its  associa- 
tions with  the  early  history  of  Spain, 
the  aspect  of  its  environs,  the  dress  of 
its  inhabitants,  and  above  all,  its  superb 
cathedral,  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe, 


220 


LEON. 


cannot  fail  to  attract,  and  will  amply 
compensate  for  any  inconvenience  at- 
tending this  detour  from  the  direct 
lines. 

The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  in  a 
fertile  plain,  on  the  slopes  of  a  hill.  The 
Torio  and  Vernesga  flow  from  the  N., 
the  former  watering  its  orchards  on  the 
K,  and  the  latter  girding  it  on  the  W. ; 
and  a  little  below,  to  the  S.,  both  meet 
and  flow  into  the  Esla. 

History. — The  *Cr6nica  General '  and 
early  writers  state  that  Leon  was  built 
with  the  ruins  of  Lancia,  Maxima  As- 
turiae  Urbs  (Dion);  but  it  is  more  gener- 
ally believed  to  have  been  founded,  or 
at  least  enlarged  and  fortified,  by  Tra- 
jan, -who  quartered  within  its  walls  the 
7th  Gemina  Legion,  Pia  Felix,  one  of  the 
three  to  which  the  defence  of  Northern 
Spain  had' been  entrusted,  and  assigning 
to  this  one  especially  the  task  of  watch- 
ing and  repressing  the  movements  of  the 
indomitable  Astures.  The  city  was 
built  up  in  the  shape  of  a  square  Roman 
camp,  with  four  marble  gates  corre- 
sponding to  the  cardinal  points,  and 
hooped  in  by  massive  walls,  which 
linked  together  large  and  formidable 
cubo  towers.  Under  Adrian,  Legio  be- 
came the  residence  of  the  Augustan 
Legat,  the  President  of  Asturias  and 
Galicia,  included  in  the  Tarraconensian 
Province.  In  the  5th  century  the  Suevi 
and  Vandals  vainly  strove  to  bear  rule 
in  the  city  and  to  dispose  of  its  rich 
corn-fields.  It  was  finally  wrested  from 
the  Roman  sway  by  the  Goth,  Leovigild, 
who  routed  the  Suevi  and  Imperialists, 
and  entered  the  gates  586,  according  to 
Risco,  but  more  probably  574-77.  He 
changed  the  name  from  Legio  into  Leon, 
which  was  his  own,  and  the  city  (spared 
as  an  exception  by  Witiza)  was  not  dis- 
mantled, as  almost  all  others  were  by 
his  insane  decree,  which  paved  the  way 
for  the  Berber  and  Moor.  Taken  easily 
by  the  former  in  714,  it  was  recaptured 


by  Pelayo  after  his  victory  at  Cova 
donga.  In  846  the  Moors  took  it  again, 
and  destroyed  the  city  by  fire.  Re- 
covered once  more  by  Ordono  I.,  the 
city  was  rebuilt  and  fortified  (855,  ac- 
cording to  a  Gothic  codex  in  San  Isidoro 
Leon),  and  the  palace  built  on  the  site 
of  the  present  cathedral.  Alfonso  the 
Great  made  this  city  share  with  Oviedo 
the  advantage  of  being  a  court  residence, 
and  was  a  great  benefactor.  Leon  be- 
came the  capital  of  the  monarchy,  and 
residence  of  its  kings  under  Ordono  II., 
who  built  the  cathedral.  This  second 
city  was  rased  to  the  ground  by  Al- 
Manssour,  996,  all  the  inhabitants  being 
put  to  death.  Leon  remained  a  scene 
of  desolation  and  a  heap  of  ruins  until 
the  reign  of  Alfonso  V.,  who  rebuilt 
and  repeopled  it.  In  1020,  a  council 
composed  of  prelates,  abbots,  and  nobles 
was  held  to  frame  laws  for  the  adminis- 
tration of  Leon,  Asturias,  and  Galicia, 
which  were  modifications  of  the  former 
Gothic  ones.  Leon  resumed  its  former 
importance,  and  continued  to  be  the 
capital  of  the  Rings  of  Leon.  In  1037 
the  crowns  of  Castile  and  Leon  were 
united  by  the  marriage  between  Ferdi- 
nand I.  and  Dona  Sancha.  A  council, 
held  1090,  declared  among  other  things 
the  substitution  of  the  French  (Latin) 
alphabet  for  the  former  Gothic  charac- 
ters. Separated  and  united  several 
times,  the  crowns  of  Castile  and  Leon 
were  definitely  annexed  by  Alfonso  VII., 
who  was  proclaimed  emperor  at  the 
Church  of  Sta.  Maria,  May  26, 1135.  In 
his  reign,  Leon  reached  to  the  acme  of 
power  and  importance.  The  emperor 
ruled  over  a  large  portion  of  the  penin- 
sula, and  was  suzeran  of  the  Kings  of 
Navarre,  Counts  of  Barcelona,  Counts 
of  Tolosa,  Barons  of  Gascoigne,  Seig- 
neurs of  Montpellier,  etc.  The  magni- 
ficent festivals  that  took  place  at  the 
marriage  of  his  daughter  with  Garcia  of 
Navarre  are  mentioned  by  the  historians 


LEON — CATHEDRAL. 


221 


of  that  day,  who  describe  at  some 
length,  and  with  great  complacency, 
the  gorgeous  bed  placed  in  the  royal 
palace  of  San  Pelayo  (close  to  the  ca- 
thedral), with  choirs  of  singers  and 
bands  of  musicians  placed  around,  and 
which  did  not  cease  to  sing  and 
play  for  many  days  after  the  wedding. 
The  Albigenses  endeavoured  to  estab- 
lish themselves  here  in  the  middle  of 
the  13th  century.  They  had  already 
made  several  converts,  and  built  a 
church,  when  the  Bishop  of  Tuy,  Don 
Lucas,  preached  a  new  crusade ;  the 
church  was  razed,  and  the  sectarians 
expelled.  The  conquests  by  St.  Ferdi- 
nand of  Seville  and  Cordova  diminished 
the  importance  of  Leon  by  drawing  its 
nobility  to  new  and  richer  lands.  At 
the  death  of  Alfonso  XL,  Don  Pedro 
removed  the  court  to  Seville,  and  Leon 
became  a  mere  province  of  the  new  and 
larger  kingdom.  But  after  it  had 
ceased  being  the  capital,  the  city  still 
preserved  many  privileges,  and  in  the 
Cortes  of  1406-7,  its  procuradores  were 
entitled  to  the  seat  next  to  Burgos,  and 
had  the  precedence  over  Toledo.  Leon 
took  part  in  the  rising  of  the  Comuni- 
dades  on  hearing  that  its  proposal  for 
holding  the  Cortes  of  Castile  here  was 
rejected.  The  city  was  then  the  prey  of 
feudal  differences  and  factions,  headed 
by  the  two  great  rival  Leonese  houses 
of  the  Lunas  and  Guzmanes,  though 
Sandoval  assumes  that  the  priests  and 
the  Jews  had  the  greater  part  '  de  estos 
alborotos.' 

Sights.— 1.  Cathedral,  San  Marcos, 
San  Isidoro,  minor  churches.  2.  Walls, 
gates,  streets,  and  prout-bits.  3.  Private 
houses. 

CatjjebrHl.  —  Historical  Notice.  —  The 
see  of  Leon  is  one  of  the  earliest  in 
Spain,  and  there  is  mention  of  an 
episcopate  as  far  back  as  the  3d  cen- 
tury. It  is  excerta — that  is,  subject  to 
no  primate — a  privilege  confirmed  in 


1105  by  Pope  Pasqual  II.  It  has  been 
patronised  by  several  kings,  especially 
by  Ordono  II.,  but  it  has  not,  like 
Toledo  and  Seville,  been  distinguished 
by  the  power,  munificence,  or  learning 
of  its  prelates  ;  the  principal  have  been 
Bishops  St.  Froylan  (900),  San  Alvito 
(1057),  Pelayo  (1073),  Manrique  de  Lara 
(1199). 

Leon  has  possessed  three  cathedrals. 
Of  the  first,  built  outside  the  town,  there 
are  no  vestiges.  The  second  was  erected 
from  its  ruins  on  the  site  of  the  palace 
of  Ordono  II.,  who  gave  it  up  for  that 
purpose.  This  palace  was  built  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  city,  with  the  ma- 
terials and  on  site  of  the  Roman  Baths. 
The  cathedral  was  magnificent,  accord- 
ing to  El  Tudense's  and  Sampiro's  de- 
scriptions, but  was  mostly  razed  by  Al 
Manssour.  Although  it  was  partly  re- 
built by  Bishop  Froylan,  and  newly  con- 
secrated and  embellished  by  Pelayo,  in 
1073  (his  will  contains  the  history  of 
the  Leonese  see  and  that  of  the  second 
cathedral's  repairs),  still,  owing  pro- 
bably to  the  ruinous  state  in  which  the 
edifice  must  have  been  left  by  the 
Moors,  and  also  to  the  increase  of  the 
city,  it  was  decided  to  build  a  new  one. 
The  foundations  of  the  existing  cathe- 
dral of  Leon  were  laid  by  Bishop  Ma- 
rique  de  Lara.  The  precise  date  is  not 
known,  but  it  lies  between  1195  and 
1200.  The  name  of  the  architect  who 
designed  or  began  it  has  not  been  ascer- 
tained ;  but  from  a  careful  examination 
of  early  writers,  and  the  opinions 
emitted  by  the  most  trustworthy  critics, 
we  incline  to  think  it  was  Pedro  Ceb- 
rian,  who  was,  a  doubtless  fact,  maestro 
mayor  of  the  works  of  the  cathedral  in 
1175 — that  is  some  twenty-five  years 
before  the  works  began.  He  was  suc- 
ceeded in  this  capacity  by  Maese 
Enrique,  who  died  1277.  The  works 
went  on  very  slowly,  from  want  of 
funds,  as  we  gather  from  a  brief  issued 


222 


LEON — CATHEDRAL. 


by  the  Lugduncnsis  Council,  held  in 
1293,  which  declares  to  the  faithful 
that  without  more  alms  the  works  can- 
not proceed,  owing  to  the  magnificence 
of  those  already  begun.  We  also  know 
that  about  1430  the  works  of  the 
edifice  were  being  carried  on  by  Guillen 
de  Rohan,  or  Ridan,  to  whom  the 
upper  portions  of  the  naves  and  the 
galleries,  'auditos,'  have  been  ascribed, 
and  who  was  employed  by  Henrique 
III.'s  confessor,  Bishop  Cusanza.  Juan 
de  Badajoz,  whose  knowledge  and  prac- 
tice of  florid  Gothic  and  Revival  were 
equally  great,  completed  the  cathedral 
about  the  year  1512.  The  whole  edifice 
has  now  been  in  course  of  restoration 
for  thirty  years,  from  the  plans  of 
Juan  Madrazo,  and  is  hardly  yet  com- 
pleted. The  original  fault  of  two  great 
lightness — whence  instability — of  con- 
struction has  been  religiously  repeated, 
and  indeed  accented. 

Its  Style  and  Proportions.  —  This 
cathedral,  smaller  than  those  of  Toledo, 
Seville,  and  Burgos,  is  a  magnificent 
example  of  the  Early  Pointed  style  in 
all  its  simplicity,  elegance,  and  light- 
ness, not  independent  of  strength.  But 
from  the  dates  given  above  it  will 
naturally  be  seen  that  it  must  needs 
contain  specimens  of  the  different 
periods  of  Gothic  architecture  which 
prevailed  in  Spain  during  the  three 
centuries  of  its  construction.  Indeed, 
the  Revival  is  also  represented  here, 
and  the  dawning  Plateresque  has  left 
some  traces,  not  all  indifferent.  Its 
general  characteristics  are — harmony 
between  the  parts,  the  original  plan 
having  never  been  deviated  from.  In 
lightness  and  elegance  it  stands  un- 
rivalled in  Spain,  and  seems  to  have 
sprung  into  the  air  at  the  touch  of  a 
fairy's  wand.  There  is  boldness  in 
the  outlines,  loftiness  and  freedom, 
great  constructive  beauty,  absence  of 
ornamentation,  variety  of  forms  and 


wonderful  masonry,  especially  at  a  time 
when  the  art  of  cutting  stone  was  in  its 
infancy. 

Mar.  Siculus,  in  his  '  De  Rebus  Ilisp. 
Memor.,'  gives  the  preference  to  Leon 
over  all  the  other  cathedrals.      'Nam 
etsi  templum,  quod  state  nostra  civitas 
Hispalensis  sedificat,  alia  omnia  mag- 
nitudine,  prestat ;  si  Toletanum  divitiis, 
ornamentis  et  specularibus  fenestris  est 
illustrius ;  si  denique  Compostellanum 
(i.e.  Santiago)  fortiori  bus  sedificiis,    et 
Sancti  Jacobi  miraculis,  et  rebus  aliis 
memorabilius    est,   Legionense    tamen 
artificio  mirabili,  meo  quidem  judicio, 
omnibus  est  anteponendum. '    Bishop 
Trujillo,  in  his   'History  of  the  Ca- 
.thedral  of  Leon,'  compares  it  to  the 
Duomo  of   Milan,  but  adds,   it  is  a 
Phoenix,    and    supersedes    even    that 
marvel.     In  his  opinion,  the  architect 
who  designed  it  was  neither  Spanish 
nor  Italian,   'for,'  he  says,    'were  he 
either,  he  would  have  built  in  the  usual 
style    adopted    in    these    provinces.' 
There  is  little  doubt  that  its  architect, 
whatever  his  name,  was  influenced  by 
the  examples  of  the  French  cathedrals 
of  that  time,  and  in  plan,  detail,  light- 
ness,    character    of   sculpture,    it    is 
thoroughly  French.      Compare    Beau- 
vais,  Amiens,  and  St.  Denis  Cathedrals 
to  this  one,  and  the  similarity  will  at 
once  occur.     The  slender  airiness  of  its 
construction  is  so  great  as  to  make  it 
difficult  to  perceive  how  the  edifice  can 
stand,  unless  by  a  miracle,  as  the  walls 
are  almost  transparent,  and  yet  are  105 
ft.  high  !    The  secret  of  its  strength 
lies,  however,   in  the  deep  and  broad 
foundations,  made  with  large  boulders, 
and,  probably,  cemented  lime,  which, 
in  Spain  becomes  petrified.     This  ca- 
thedral does  not  contain  any  particular 
gem  within  its  walls,  as  most  do ;  no 
octagon  like  that  of  Ely's,  no  chapel 
like  that  of  King's  College  at  Cam- 
bridge, no  Henry  VII.  's  Chapel  like 


LEON — CATHEDRAL. 


223 


that  at  Westminster ;  or  as,  in  Spain, 
the  cathedrals  of  Burgos,  Toledo,  Se- 
ville, eta  The  source  of  the  beauty  of 
this  interior  lies  mainly  in  the  harmony 
of  its  parts — in  the  simple  excellence  of 
its  planning,  the  delicacy  and  richness 
of  the  detail  throughout,  and  the  perfect 
crowning  of  its  stained  glass. 

Masonry. — The  walls  are  generally 
3  J  ft  thick  (in  some  places  only  a  foot), 
and  the  stone  employed  is  of  a  creamy, 
warm  colour,  of  great  consistency,  fine 
grain,  and  easily  carved.  They  are 
built  of  rubble,  faced  with  stone  on  both 
sides.  Externally  it  is  all  of  stone. 
The  hormigon,  a  peculiarly  fine  sort  of 
plaster,  was  used  for  the  esplanade  from 
which  it  rises. 

Exterior.  — The  building  has  the  shape 
of  a  rectangular  parallelogram,  from 
whose  straight  line  the  high  chapel  de- 
viates on  the  E.  side,  so  as  to  describe 
an  arch  of  a  circle  inside,  and  outside 
half  a  duodecagon.  It  rises  isolated  in 
a  spacious  square,  the  Plaza  Mayor,  the 
character  of  whose  brick  houses,  ar- 
cades, and  Fountain  of  Neptune,  which 
dates  1789,  is  quaint,  though  not  in 
keeping.  Observe  the  platform  around 
it  enclosed  by  chains,  with  pedestals 
and  sculptured  vases  and  children.  A 
good  view  can  be  obtained  from  the 
Plaza,  standing  close  to  the  fountain. 

Facades. — The  principal  one  is  to  the 
W.,  and  is  seen  from  the  Plaza.  The 
iron  railing  round  this  facade  dates 
1800,  but  there  has  disappeared,  among 
other  relics  of  the  past,  an  inscription 
of  the  16th  century,  placed  on  a  pillar 
facing  the  front  door,  and  erroneously 
transcribed  in  Mr.  Ford's  Handbook. 
It  ran  thus  : — 

Sint  licet  Hispaniis  ditissima  pulchraque  templa 
Hoc  tamen  egregiis  omnibus  arte  prius. 

This  facade  is  picturesque,  effective, 
and  spacious,  and  is  an  epitome  of  the 
history  of  the  building,  bearing  vestiges 


of  its  different  periods,  but  mostly  be- 
longing to  the  earliest.  It  is  composed 
of  a  grand  and  effective  porch  formed 
by  five  ogival  arches,  the  three  largest 
being  portals,  and  flanked  by  two 
towers  ;  the  latter  are  different  in  size 
and  style,  and  mar  the  general  effect. 
The  N.  one  is  small,  severe  in  style, 
somewhat  heavy,  unornamented,  and 
of  two  stages  ;  the  windows  of  the  first 
being  circular,  those  of  the  second 
slightly  pointed,  and  crowned  with  a 
massive  octagon  steeple,  clumsily  de- 
corated. This  tower,  from  its  style,  we 
may  ascribe  to  the  early  part  of  the 
14th  century.  The  S.  tower  is  of  the 
16th  century,  light,  lofty,  forming  five 
stages,  of  the  Decline.  The  open-worked 
steeple  is  very  elegant,  rises  freely  from 
the  square  platform,  and  looks  like  a 
tent  made  of  guipure.  On  this  tower 
and  at  different  heights  are  the  words, 
'Maria,  Jesus  Xps.  Deus  Homo,'  and 
'Ave  Maria,  gratia  plena,  Dnus.  tecum.' 
It  is  called  the  clock-tower.  This 
facade  is  composed  of  three  stages  ;  the 
first  is  formed  by  three  ingresses,  with 
double  arches  forming  a  very  sharp 
ogive,  the  central  being  higher  and 
wider  than  the  rest  These  constitute 
porches  formed  by  three  decrescent 
and  concentric  deeply-recessed  arches 
sharply  pointed.  The  sides  within  the 
porches  are  lined  with  canopied  niches, 
three  on  a  row,  the  pedestals  of  which 
sally  at  right  angles,  springing  from  the 
basement.  There  are  evident  vestiges 
of  the  influence  of  the  Byzantine  Tran- 
sition school  in  the  forms  and  propor- 
tions of  the  small  pillars,  the  leaf  orna- 
ment of  the  capitals,  the  handling  of 
flower-decoration,  and  not  less  in  the 
quaint  original  treatment  of  the  large 
cabbage-leaf  and  stem  forming  the  eyes, 
mouth,  and  nose  of  the  grotesque  satyrs 
or  mascarons.  These  are  all  examples 
of  the  12th  century .  The  statues,  forty 
in  all,   belong  to  the  second  Gothic 


224 


LEON — CATHEDRAL. 


period ;  they  are  rude  in  execution  and 
belong  still  to  the  Byzantine  manner, 
but  they  deserve  close  attention,  on  ac- 
count of  the  costumes,  composition, 
and  meaning.  Those  in  the  central 
porch  are  the  best,  and  represent  kings 
and  prelates,  virgins  and  monks.  Those 
in  the  porch  next  to  the  N.  tower  are 
earlier  still,  and  inferior,  but  interesting 
for  the  composition.  They  represent 
several  kings  and  a  queen  holding 
scales  and  a  sword,  on  the  blade  of 
which  the  inscription,  *  Justitia  est  uni- 
cuique  dare  quod  suum  est.'  Here  was 
held,  in  the  13th  century,  no  doubt,  an 
open,  public  court  of  appeal ;  and  what 
confirms  this  supposition  are  the  words, 
'  Locus  appellationis, '  in  Gothic  char- 
acters, placed  on  a  pillar  bearing  the 
shields  of  Castile  and  Leon,  while  in 
the  background  a  king  is  seated  and 
passing  judgment.  The  central  door- 
way is  .divided  by  a  low  pillar  support- 
ing an  effigy  of  the  '  Virgen  Blanca, ' 
the  French  Notre  Dame  des  Neiges,  en- 
closed within  glass,  and  dating  the 
early  part  of  the  15th  century,  to  which 
are  attached  indulgences  granted  by 
Bishop  Cabeza  de  Vaca  (Front  de  Boeuf ) 
in  1436  to  the  faithful  who  will  pray  to 
her.  Over  the  principal  portal  is  an 
alto-relievo,  most  probably  painted  for- 
merly, and  representing  the  Last  Judg- 
ment, a  work  which  may  be  ascribed  to 
the  14th  century.  On  the  archi volts, 
and  to  complete  this  scene,  are  groups 
representing,  on  one  side,  the  blessed 
and  all  the  phases  of  celestial  bliss, 
whilst  the  other  represents  the  wicked, 
personified  by  grotesque  figures,  in 
every  possible  quaint  attitude  and  di- 
versity of  aspect,  and  a  wild  Dantesque 
mob  of  urchin  fiends  wearing  the  local 
monteras.  Over  the  S.  portal  is  an- 
other alto-relievo  representing  the  Vir- 
gin's Transito,  or  death,  and  her 
Coronation  in  heaven :  the  archivolts 
here  bear  choirs  of  angels  and  virgins 


seated  under  canopies.  The  relief  over 
the  N.  portal,  which  is  the  earliest,  is 
divided  into  four  compartments,  repre- 
senting scenes  from  Scripture.  The 
doors  themselves  are  carved,  and  repre- 
sent (the  central)  crosses  and  devices 
in  the  plateresque  style  ;  the  N.,  'the 
Death  and  Resurrection,  and  the  S., 
very  plain,  is  decorated  with  ogival 
patterns.  Over  these  ingresses  runs  a 
balustraded  gallery  or  parapet  with 
open-work  decorated  pinnacles  of  the 
13th  century.  Over  it,  and  within 
an  early  ogive,  observe  a  glorious 
decorated  rose-window.  Above  it  and 
crowning  the  upper  stage,  which  belongs 
to  the  plateresque,  and  is  the  work  of 
Juan  de  Badajoz,  is  a  large  relievo  re- 
presenting the  Annunciation,  with  the 
vase  of  lilies,  usually  placed  in  all 
cathedrals,  as  most  of  them  are  de- 
dicated to  the  Virgin,  and  emblematic 
of  her  purity.  The  plateresque  work 
above  is  formed  by  two  small  turrets  or 
lanterns  with  triangular  points,  and 
connected  by  an  elegant  gallery.  Be- 
tween the  lanterns  rises  a  triangular 
retablo  with  a  rose  in  the  centre,  flanked 
by  Ionic  pillarets  and  three  statuettes. 
Originality  and  great  lightness  are  pro- 
duced in  this  facade  by  the  vacant 
spaces  left  between  the  masses,  the  im- 
pulsive force  of  the  arches  of  the  central 
nave  against  the  towers  being  checked 
by  the  light  and  airy  flying  buttresses. 
The  niches  on  the  buttresses  flanking 
the  towers  have  never  been  filled  up  ; 
they  are  thin,  and  rise  up  to  above  the 
roof.  The  latter  consisted  formerly  of 
two  slopes,  or  vertientes. 

Southern,  Fagade. — This  elegant  fa- 
cade forms  three  stages ;  the  first  or 
lower  one  is  crowned  by  an  open-worked 
gallery,  and  composed  of  three  very 
acutely  pointed  ingresses  ;  the  central 
larger,  and  the  archivolts  decorated 
with  relievo  ornaments,  simulated  arch- 
lets,  and  statuettes,  all  the  work  of  the 


LEON — CATHEDRAL. 


225 


beginning  of  the  15th  century.  The 
second  stage  was  formerly  composed  of 
two  large  ogival  windows  and  a  rose 
above  ;  but  having  needed  repairs,  this 
portion  was  modernised.  The  third  or 
upper  stage  is  of  the  Revival ;  there  is 
little  sculpture  here,  and  most  of  the 
statues  are  wanting.  Observe  the  colos- 
sal one  of  San  Froylan,  and  over  the 
central  portal  the  funeral  with  monks 
and  priests,  probably  of  the  bishop,  who 
is  buried  within  the  walled-in  door  to 
the  left.  Close  to  the  portal  to  the 
right  are  some  statues,  representing  a 
Virgin  and  Child,  the  Magi,  and 
shields,  rude,  and  apparently  earlier 
than  the  15th  century,  etc.  The 
NorOiern  facade  is  very  elegant  and 
richly  decorated,  and  belongs  to  the 
Revival.  It  is  unfortunately  blocked 
up  by  houses,  and  cannot  be  seen  to 
advantage.  Observe  the  transept  rose- 
window.  The  E.  end  is  of  good  but  not 
particularly  interesting  Gothic  It  is 
ribbed  with  jlying  buttresses  and  pin- 
nacles of  excellent  design,  most  of  fili- 
gree open-work.  Observe  the  exterior 
of  the  high  chapel,  with  its  polygonal 
shape,  the  pinnacled  buttresses,  the 
large  elegant  windows,  open-worked 
clerestory.  A  good  view  of  the  exterior 
of  the  transept  is  obtained  from  the 
cloisters.  On  S.  side  of  the  edifice  are 
the  apses  of  the  Chapels  del  Trasaltar, 
with  decorated  windows,  busts  of 
bishops,  mascarons,  etc. ,  of  very  early 
style.  The  exterior  of  sacristy  is  pla- 
teresque. 

Interior. — It  is  divided  into  three 
naves,  as  far  as  the  transept,  whence  five 
naves  diverge,  two  of  which  occupy  the 
length  of  the  arcades  parallel  to  the  high 
altar,  and  form  the  Chapels  of  N.  S.  del 
Dado  and  Nativity,  sweeping  gracefully 
round  the  presbytery  ;  the  proportions 
are  303  ft  long,  128  ft.  wide,  and  125  ft. 
high.     Observe  the  loftiness  and  bold- 


the  elliptical  form  of  the  trasaltar,  the 
great  simplicity  prevailing,  and  mark 
the  early  style  of  the  Gothic.  The 
naves  are  divided  by  ogival  svelte  arches. 
The  lateral  naves  rise  to  the  height  oi 
the  first  stage  of  the  principal  (W.)  fa- 
cade, but  are  lower  than  the  central  one, 
while  the  lateral  walls  of  the  latter,  with 
their  thinness  and  open-work,  are  more 
like  hangings  placed  to  keep  the  air  out 
and  prevent  it  putting  out  the  gilt  and 
silver  lamps  that  light  up  the  altars. 
All  the  interior  is  marked  by  great  unity 
of  execution,  and  is  of  the  second  half 
of  the  13th  century.  Eleven  pillars  on 
each  side,  formed  each  by  groups  of 
three  shafts,  support  the  ten  vaults  of 
the  principal  nave  between  the  entrance 
and  the  presbytery  ;  the  basements  are 
circular ;  the  shafts  and  pillars  are  plain, 
and  rise  up  boldly  into  the  air  to  meet 
the  springing  of  the  arches,  which  bend 
with  exquisite  elegance.  The  capitals 
belong  to  the  Byzantine  transition  style. 
Over  the  arches,  which  serve  to  connect 
the  central  with  the  lateral  naves,  runs 
all  round  the  church  an  elegant  triforium. 
Over  this  gallery  the  walls  are  pierced  by 
large  windows,  40  ft  high,  with  superb 
and  unrivalled  stained  glass ;  each  is 
composed  of  six  arches  closed  within  the 
main  external  one,  and  decorated  with 
three  roses  in  the  vacant  spaces,  and 
resting  on  octagon  pillarets.  The  under 
tier,  now  bricked  up,  and  indifferently 
painted  with  figures  and  scrolls,  is  sup- 
posed by  some  to  have  been  the  con- 
tinuation of  the  upper  tier ;  and  if  thus, 
which  reminds  us  somewhat  of  the 
Sainte  Chapelle  at  Paris,  the  walls  of 
this  unique  edifice  must  have  been  one 
blaze  of  gloriously  painted  glass.  The 
original  windows  date  from  the  thir- 
teenth to  the  sixteenth  centuries, 
and,  removed  during  the  restoration, 
have  been  carefully  reinstated  ;  while 
the  capitals  of  the  piers  have  been 
rescued  from  the  yellowish  ventre-de- 


ness  of  the  central  nave  and  transept,    biche  dye  which  still  disfigures  so  many 


226 


LEON  — CATHEDRAL. 


of  the  churches  in  Belgium  and  the 
South  of  France.  The  rest  of  the  in- 
terior will  now,  it  is  hoped,  remain  free 
from  the  whitewash  and  ochre  which 
have  hitherto  defaced  it.  The  naves  are 
narrow,  although  their  width  is  appa- 
rently absorbed  by  the  great  height ;  the 
lateral  ones,  and  the  central  even,  as  far 
as  the  former's  own  height,  may  be  as- 
cribed to  the  architects  of  the  latter 
part  of  the  13th  century,  the  basement 
certainly  belonging  to  the  13th.  The 
galleries  and  upper  portions  of  them, 
and  the  remainder  of  the  interior,  with 
the  exception  of  the  very  early  massive 
buttresses  round  the  high  chapel,  are 
of  somewhat  later  date,  the  galleries 
being  the  work  of  Badajoz,  beginning 
of  the  16th  century.  The  choir,  as 
usual,  blocks  up  the  central  nave,  thus 
diminishing  the  general  effect.  This 
interior,  one  of  the  most  elegant  in  Eu- 
rope, stands  unrivalled  in  Spain  for 
beauty  of  constructive  ornamentation, 
unity  of  design,  and  proportions. 

High  Qhapd  and  Altar. — The  walls 
round  the  presbytery  are  all  open- 
worked.  On  either  side  of  the  altar, 
which  is  churrigueresque,  are  buried 
Saints  Alvito  and  Froylan.  Observe  the 
exquisite  urna  and  custodia,  and  the 
tabernacle,  all  silver,  with  statuette  of 
San  Froylan,  classical  pillars,  and  effi- 
gies of  saints.  The  former  retablo  was 
removed  in  1738,  and  substituted  by  the 
present  marble  transparency  by  Gavilan, 
the  nephew  of  Tome\  who  was  the  in- 
ventor of  those  abominations.  In  the 
ambulatory  are  tombs  of  bishops  Alvito 
and  Pelayo.  The  high  chapel  is  con- 
nected with  the  choir  by  several  fine 
rejas  placed  on  the  sides,  across  the 
transept. 

Choir. — Dates  the  end  of  15th  cen- 
tury. The  lower  row  of  stalls  is  deco- 
rated with  busts  of  saints.  The  upper 
row  dates  1468-81,  and  is  the  earliest; 
They  were  ordered  and  put  up  by  Bishop 


Veneris,  who  contributed  so  much  tc 
the  marriage  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 
Observe  the  full-length  statues  of  apo- 
stles and  saints,  canopied  by  porched 
arches  with  arabesque  open-work  and 
scenes  from  Scripture ;  the  best  speci- 
mens are  those  near  the  entrance,  at  thr- 
sides  of  which  observe  the  genealogy  of 
Christ,  the  Fall  of  the  Rebel  Angels, 
Visitation  and  Descent  to  Limbo,  Crea- 
tion of  Woman,  etc.  They  are  by  Ro« 
drigo  Aleman. 

Trascoro. — It  is  most  elaborately 
sculptured  in  white  alabaster  and  gold, 
with  relievos  representing  the  Adora- 
tion, Nativity,  Annunciation,  and  Nati- 
vity of  St.  John  ;  the  two  former  on  left, 
and  the  latter  on  right.  At  the  corner 
are  statues  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul.  This 
plateresque  work  is  very  beautiful,  and 
deserves  attention. 

Trasaltar. — Here  is  the  tomb  of  Or- 
dono  II.,  ob.  923,  the  founder  of  the 
former  cathedral.  The  mausoleum  is 
curious,  and  dates  15th  century.  The 
king  lies  at  full  length  in  his  robes,  a 
globe  in  his  hand,  and  a  dog  at  his  feet 
On  his  side  is  a  herald  holding  a  shield, 
on  which  are  painted  a  lion  (leon)  and 
Moors  slain.  The  other  figures  are  a 
herald  with  a  scroll,  'aspice,'  etc.,  and 
a  monk  (thought  by  some  to  be  the 
architect  of  the  first  cathedral)  in  black 
and  white,  pointing  to  a  book,  whose 
subject  is  '  the  duties  of  man  towards 
God,  the  king,  and  his  neighbour. '  Two 
lions  support  the  ogival  arch.  Below 
the  niche  are  relievos — Death  of  Christ, 
painted  and  estofado,  and  of  a  style 
prior  to  rest  of  the  mausoleum.  Between 
this  tomb  and  those  more  indifferent  of 
SS.  Alvito  and  Pelayo,  the  walls  are 
painted  with  frescoes,  mostly  barbar- 
ously retouched  and  defaced.  One  re- 
presents the  Burial  of  Christ,  and  the 
other  an  Ecce  Homo,  crucified  a  second 
time  in  1834  by  a  Leonese  artist  The 
tombs  close  by  of  San  Pelayo  and  San 


LEON — CATHEDRAL. 


227 


Alvito  are  uninteresting  and  modern  ; 
the  former  is  Gracco-Roman.  Observe 
near  to  it  a  Gothic  arch  richly  decorated 
with  foliage  and  fruit ;  that  of  San  Al- 
vito, whose  body  was  placed  here  in 
1565,  is  plateresque,  and  substituted  for 
the  former,  which  was  a  magnificent 
piece  of  silver  workmanship  which  the 
French,  who  preferred  in  those  cases  the 
contenant  to  the  contenu,  carried  religi- 
ously away. 

Transept. — It  is  broad,  and  lighted 
by  two  rose-windows.  The  cimborio 
(cupola),  placed  at  the  intersection  of 
transept  and  central  nave,  rests  on  four 
massive  piers,  and  was  raised  in  the 
18th  century.  The  Corinthian  pillars 
and  hexagon  lantern,  the  medallions 
with  busts  decorating  the  media  naran- 
ja,  and  the  statues  of  the  doctors  of  the 
Church,  are  out  of  keeping  with  the 
uniform  style  of  the  edifice. 

Chapels. — De  Santiago. — This  spa- 
cious, lofty,  and  most  elegant  chapel  is 
of  the  Gothic  style  of  middle  of  15th 
century.  It  is  the  finest  in  the  cathe- 
dral. Observe  the  lofty  groined  roof 
with  florid  tracery,  the  very  bold  and 
most  elegant  arches,  the  richly  orna- 
mented cornices,  springs  of  arches.  The 
windows  to  E.  with  glorious  stained 
glass,  representing  twelve  virgins,  twelve 
apostles,  and  twelve  bishops.  The 
greens,  reds,  and  yellows  are  admirable. 
Connoisseurs  will  do  well  to  notice  all 
their  details  with  care,  as  they  are,  per- 
haps, the  finest  in  Spain.  Observe  also 
the  basements  which  support  the  roof ; 
they  are  formed  by  grotesque  composi- 
tions, mascarons,  satyrs,  angels,  quaint 
scenes  from  Scripture— Queen  of  She- 
bah,  Samson  and  the  lion,  a  man  strug- 
gling with  a  serpent,  a  fat  monk  with  a 
book,  and  the  satirical  inscription, 
'  Legere,  non  intelligere. '  The  entrance 
is  formed  by  a  fine  plateresque  arch  with 
foliage,  etc.  The  altar  and  organ  are 
churrigueresque.  N.B. — On  the  sides  of 


the  altar  have  been  temporarily  placed 
the  silver  urns,  admirably  worked,  con- 
taining bones  of  SS.  Froylan  and  Alvito, 
which  we  have  described  as  being  at  the 
sides  of  the  high  altar,  as  these  are  their 
appointed  places.  The  body  of  the 
former  was  the  object  of  the  pious 
covetousness  of  different  churches  and 
cities,  all  of  which  claimed  it  on  differ- 
ent pleas.  The  dispute  was  curiously 
settled  in  a  manner  that  would  have 
pleased  Sancho  Panza,  whose  sentences 
at  Barataria  it  somewhat  resembled. 
According  to  Florez,  '  Espana  Sagrada,' 
vol.  xzxiv.  p.  194,  the  body  was  placed 
on  a  mule,  which  was'  allowed  to  carry 
it  where  it  liked,  and  most  probably  the 
stable  was  not  far  from  the  church. 

Capilla  de  Nuestra  Seflora  del  Dado 
{Our  Lady  of  the  Die.) — Founded  by 
Bishop  Manrique,  and  called  otherwise 
until  a  miracle  ascribed  to  the  image  of 
the  Virgin,  gave  it  its  present  name. 
A  gambler  having  invoked  the  Virgin's 
intercession,  was,  notwithstanding,  most 
unlucky  in  his  play,  and  not  having 
the  fortitude  of  another  great  gambler 
of  antiquity,  did  not  say,  '  Alea  jacta 
est,'  but,  full  of  revenge,  flung  his  dice 
(dado)  at  the  Virgin,  and  hit  the  In- 
fant's face,  which  instantly  bled  pro- 
fusely. This,  minus  the  miracle,  is  a 
common  occurrence  among  the  lower 
classes  in  Spain  and  Italy,  who  some- 
times stone  and  strike  their  patron 
saints  whenever  they  do  not  comply 
with  their  wishes,  and  caress,  thank, 
and  make  presents  to  them  when  the 
contrary  happens. 

A  Santa  Rita  de  Casia 

No  le  tengo  de  rezar, 
Pues  le  pedi  un  imposible, 

Y  no  lo  qufso  otorgar. 

The  founder's  tomb  is  indifferent ;  the 
inscription  runs  thus  : — 
Praesul  Manricus  jacet  hicrationis  amicus. 

Capilla  del  Prwilegiada. — Very  fine 
painted  glass,  subject  the  Nativity,  and 


228 


LEON — CATHEDRAL. 


dating  1665.  The  walls  are  painted 
with  frescoes  on  gilt  backgrounds, 
very  early,  and  with  figures ;  amongst 
them  observe  one  on  the  right  holding 
a  model  of  this  cathedral,  probably 
meant  as  the  portrait  of  the  architect. 

Capilla  de  San  Pedro.  —  Here  is 
buried  Bishop  Arnaldo  (ob.  1234),  a 
friend  of  St.  Ferdinand's,  and  a  great 
persecutor  of  the  Albigenses. 

Gapilfa  del  Salvador, — Opposite  to 
tomb  of  Ordofio  XL,  a  tomb  of  the 
great  benefactress  of  Leon,  Dona 
Sancha  (11th  century).  Her  generosity 
to  the  priests  was  unlimited,  for  which 
she  was  murdered  by  her  nephew  and 
heir,  a  crime  for  which  he  was  torn  to 
death  by  horses.  The  whole  scene  of 
this  expiation  is  represented  on  the 
sculpture,  and  put  up  as  a  salutary 
lesson. 

Capilla  del  Nacimiento. — Founded 
by  Bishop  Pedro  Cabeza  de  Vaca,  an 
illustrious  name  in  Spain,  15th  century. 
Observe  here  the  tomb  of  Bishop  Don 
Rodrigo  (ob.  1532)  for  its  style,  which 
belongs  to  the  Byzantine  of  Transition. 
The  short  pillars  are  strictly  Byzantine. 
Notice  the  relievos,  representing  the 
funeral  procession  of  the  bishop,  with 
the  cross,  incense-bearers,  hired  weepers, 
dressed  in  monastic  habits,  '  as  whole 
convents  were  wont  to  pour  out  their 
pious  inhabitants  to  form  processions 
at  the  funerals  of  the  great. '  (Pennant, 
London.)  This  custom  has  been  found 
in  all  countries.  (See  Captain  Cook's 
'First  Voyage,'  book  in.  chap.  xiL  ; 
Feydeaux's  important  work  on  •  Monu- 
ments Funebres,  etc,  des  Anciens,' 
etc.)  The  custom  prevails  even  now 
in  portions  of  Asturias,  Galicia,  and 
Ireland  we  believe.  Behind  the  con- 
fessional of  the  penitenciaria  is  another 
early  tomb,  with  a  similar  procession  of 
monks,  kneeling  and  weeping. 

Cloisters. — They  are  Gothic,  though 
with  an  admixture  of  the  plateresque 


introduced  in  the  16th  century.  The 
roof  is  plateresque,  and  heavily  orna- 
mented with  angels'  heads  within 
wings,  which  look  like  starched  shirt- 
collars.  The  walls,  painted  with  early 
frescoes,  represent  scenes  from  the 
Scriptures,  unfortunately  much  dam- 
aged and  effaced.  The  cloisters,  seen 
from  the  court  or  garden,  offer  a  not 
ineffective  combination  of  plateresque 
and  Revival.  The  entrance  portal  is 
charming,  and  the  carvings,  formerly 
gilt,  give  an  idea  of  what  they  must 
once  have  been.  Observe  the  quaint 
cornice,  outside  of  which  the  chief  or- 
nament consists  of  death's  heads  and 
foliage.  The  antepecho  parapeted  gal- 
leries are  with  a  balustrade,  open-work, 
and  pillarets.  Each  of  the  galleries  are 
formed  by  six  large  ogival  arches.  The 
capitals  of  the  pillars  are  a  museum  of 
mediaeval  pictorial  times,  containing 
animated,  graphic  scenes  of  hunting, 
war,  and  festivals,  satirical  and  his- 
torical A  great  portion  of  these 
cloisters  was  the  work  of  beginning 
of  14th  century,  and  built  for  King  Don 
Alfonso. 

The  Frescoes  are  interesting,  and 
with  inscriptions  in  Gothic  characters. 
The  colouring,  once  vivid  and  warm,  is 
scarcely  discernible.  The  composition 
is  not  wanting  in  vigour  and  grace. 
Observe  especially  the  Christ  at  the 
Column,  Christ  Disputing  with  the 
Doctors  (which  may  be  compared  with 
Holman  Hunt's  similar  subject),  and 
the  Last  Supper,  the  best,  perhaps. 
There  are  some  very  early  tombs  em- 
bedded in  the  walls-— that  of  a  Canon 
with  St.  Michael  sculptured  is  good. 
The  best  is  the  Altar  del  Conde  de 
Rebolledo,  and  the  sculpture  around 
the  retablo  of  the  Veronica  is  very 
fine. 

Observe  the  Roman  inscriptions,  one 
of  which,  referring  to  the  foundation  of 
the  city,  runs  thus : — 'Legio  VII.  Gem* 


LEON — CHAPEL  OF  ST.  ANDRES. 


229 


Before  the  image,  *  La  Virgen  del 
Koro,'  which  is  placed  on  left  of  the 
entrance,  the  peasantry  of  Leon,  until 
very  lately,  used  to  celebrate  the  an- 
niversary of  the  battle  of  Clavijo  (846), 
in  which  their  forefathers  had  a  share, 
as  well  as  one  of  their  noblemen, 
Marquis  of  Astorga,  whose  descend- 
ants on  that  account  enjoy  a  canongia 
(canonry) — an  honour  shared  with  the 
monarchs  who  are  also  Canons  of  Bar- 
celona, etc.,  and  when  in  these  cities 
sit,  whether  male  or  female,  at  the 
choir,  and  receive  their  fee  for  attend- 
ance. To  celebrate  this  great  festival 
(17th  August),  and  honour  the  warrior- 
saint,  Santiago,  who  slew  the  infidel  by 
thousands,  a  grand  bull-fight  used  to 
take  place  the  day  before,  and  of  the 
fourth  part  of  each  bull,  which  was 
offered  devoutly,  the  canons  made 
chorizos,  not  knowing  as  yet  the  beef- 
steak— that  secret,  said  Bonapartist 
marshals,  of  the  civilisation  of  Eng- 
land. 


Chapel  of  St.  Andre's —Dates  1297. 
The  staircase  leading  to  the  chapter  is 
of  exquisite  Revival,  and  built  for 
Bishop  Don  Pedro  Manuel.  Observe 
the  entrance  door  with  sculpture.  The 
landings  or  exedras  are  decorated  with 
statuettes  of  kings  and  bishops.  It 
certainly  is  the  finest  and  earliest 
specimen  of  the  plateresque,  after  the 
Hospital  of  Santa  Cruz  of  Toledo.  The 
chapter-room  is  most  indifferent,  and 
to  visit  it  is  to  lose  time  ;  the  door  is 
prettily  ornamented. 

The  archive,  containing  but  a  portion 
of  the  once  magnificent  library  of  the 
cathedral,  is  little  known,  and  many  of 
the  MSS.  locked  up  here  would  throw 
light  upon  several  obscure,  intricate, 
and  disputed  facts  of  the  early  history 
of  Leon,  i.e.  of  Spain.  Inquire  after  a 
MS.    Gothic   Bible,    era    958  (920  of 


Christ)  of  the  sixth  year  of  the  reign 
of  Ordofio  II.,  written  by  Juan  Did. 
cono,  on  whose  intermediate  leaves 
will  be  found  a  curious  life  of  San 
Froylan.  See  also  a  Book  of  Prophecies, 
Epistles,  and  Gospels,  with  inscriptions 
relative  to  San  Pelayo.  An  Antiphon 
written  by  Arias,  1069,  and  most  im- 
portant to  those  who  might  entertain 
the  lucky  idea,  never  heretofore  pro- 
perly carried  out,  of  writing  a  history  of 
the  Roman  Liturgy.  Some  very  early 
MSS.,  full  of  quaint,  inedited  poetry, 
letters,  treatises  of  Doctors  of  the  Church, 
etc.,  forming  part  of  a  collection  brought 
here  from  Andalusia  by  a  learned  monk, 
and  five  MSS.  of  16th  century,  com- 
prising the  history  of  Archbishop  Don 
Rodrigo,  etc. 

Sacristy. — It  is  situated  to  the  right 
of  the  high  altar.  The  triple  Gothic 
sedilia  of  the  ante-sacristia  are  to  be 
observed.  The  sacristia  itself  is  Gothic, 
and  of  the  same  period  as  Chapel  of 
Santiago.  The  pictures  are  indifferent 
copies  of  Italian  masters.  A  San 
Geronimo  is  the  best.  There  is  little 
to  see  here  now,  as  the  former  beautiful 
gems  disappeared  during  the  French 
invasion.  Here  was  the  wonderful 
ruby,  for  the  possession  of  which  En- 
rique III.  (1395),  an  amateur  Duke  of 
Brunswick  of  the  time,  who  could  count 
the  jardines  of  an  emerald  like  the  best 
jeweller  (joyero)>  gave  a  rent  of  3070 
maravedis  (£2).  The  custodia  was 
considered  by  most  of  those  who  saw 
it  as  one  of  the  grandest  works  of 
chiselled  silver  in  the  world.  It  was 
made  in  1506,  in  the  Gothic  style,  by 
the  Spanish  Cellini  Enrique  de  Arfe, 
whose  nephew  Juan  was  born  at  Leon, 
and  left  a  curious  work  entitled  '  Varia 
Commensuracion,'  etc.  The  present 
reliquaries  and  plate  are  of  no  great 
value. 

Stained  Glass. — The  greatest  portion 
was  put  up  by  Bishop  Villalon.     It  is 


230 


LEON — SAN  ISIDORO. 


among  the  finest  in  Europe  for  vivid- 
ness and  intensity  of  colour,  variety  of 
tints,  strength  and  boldness  of  outline, 
simplicity  and  breadth  of  composition, 
and  unity  of  effect.  The  foliaged  orna- 
mentation, the  borders  and  patterns, 
evince  a  happy  attempt  at  transferring 
to  glass  the  varied  designs  of  the  Neo- 
Greek  ornamentation,  as  displayed  in 
the  contemporary  sculpture,  and  devices 
from  illuminated  missals.  They  are 
among  the  earliest  in  Spain  ;  later, 
nevertheless,  than  those  of  Avila,  and 
between  middle  of  15th  century  and 
17  th.  They  represent  scenes  from 
Scripture  and  the  lives  of  the  saints,  in 
the  body  of  the  church.  The  largest 
and  earliest  are  those  of  the  central 
nave  ;  but  perhaps  the  finest — if  they 
are  restored — are  those  of  the  Santiago 
Chapel,  ascribed  to  Flemish  artists. 

The  present  restoration,  begun  in 
1860  from  the  plans  of  Juan  Madrazo, 
has  been  carried  out  mostly  under  the 
superintendence  of  Rios  y  Serrano,  the 
well-known  architect  and  critic.  It 
is  barely  completed  (1898),  and  yet 
remains  to  be  judged  as  a  whole,  when 
the  scaffolding  is  cleared  away  and  the 
stained  glass  restored  throughout. 


San  Isidoro,  called  El  Real,  from 
its  having  been  founded  by  kings, 
rises  on  the  site  of  a  nunnery,  which 
was  consecrated  966,  to  St  John 
the  Baptist,  and  built  by  Sancho 
I.  Alfonso  I.  enlarged  it,  and  destined 
it  for  a  royal  burial-house,  'la  ultima 
morada,'  as  the  Spaniards  say.  In 
1063,  as  Ferdinand  I.  had  applied  to 
Ben  Abed,  the  Khalif  of  Seville  for  the 
bodies  of  the  martyred  virgins  Stas. 
Justa  and  Rufina,  San  Isidoro  appeared 
in  a  vision  to  the  Bishop  Alvito,  who 
headed  the  embassy,  and  said,  '  I  am 
the  Doctor  de  la  Espanas,  and  mine  is 
the  body  to  be  removed.'    Then  having 


thus  '  spoken  his  mind'  to  his  colleague, 
San  Alvito  hurried  to  unbury  the  sa- 
cred body  of  the  susceptible  and  un- 
gallant  doctor,  and  removed  it  to  Leon. 
The  king  and  his  sons  hastened  to  Toro 
to  receive  it,  and  earned  it  on  their 
shoulders  to  Leon  ;  the  body  working 
such  miracles  on  the  road — curing  the 
lame  and  blind,  casting  out  devils,  etc. 
— that  the  khalif  s  daughter,  the  fair 
Zaida,  was  easily  converted,  and  mar- 
ried Alfonso  VI.,  one  of  the  miraculous 
procession  !  Queen  Sancha,  whose  de- 
votion for  this  saint  was  so  great  that 
she  used  to  call  herself  his  wife,  etc. 
(for  more  details  see  Risco,  vol.  i. 
p.  139;  Florez,  'Esp.  Sagr.,'  vol.  ix. 
pp.  234-406),  gave  up  her  palace,  for- 
tune, and  jewels  to  the  new  building, 
which  she  and  Fernando  erected  in 
honour  of  the  saint,  and  to  contain  his 
body  ;  the  former  edifice  was  therefore 
pulled  down,  and  the  present  one 
erected,  and  the  first  stone  laid  Decem- 
ber 21,  1063.  Who  the  architect  was 
is  ignored,  and  Mr.  Ford,  following 
Risco,  Morales,  and  others,  has  erro- 
neously asserted  it  was  Pedro  de  Deo 
Tamben,  or  Vitambene.  He  was  em- 
ployed to  continue  the  works,  as  his 
epitaph  has  it,  *  superapdificavit ; '  and 
his  tomb  was  not  put  up  by  Alfonso 
VI.,  as  Morales  states,  but  later  and 
by  Alfonso  VII.  and  his  sister  Dona 
Sancha,  by  whom  the  church  was  com- 
pleted and  consecrated  March  6,  1149. 
Style. — This  edifice  is  an  interesting 
monument  of  the  Romano-Byzantine 
in  its  first  period,  and  will  interest  the 
student  of  architecture.  It  is  natural  to 
expect  that  it  has  not  retained  through- 
out the  features  of  its  former  style,  and 
therefore  portions,  such  as  the  high 
chapel  (1513),  part  of  the  pantheon, 
parts  of  cloisters,  staircases,  and  altars, 
exhibit  different  and  more  modern 
styles.  Exterior. — There  are  two  en- 
trances.    South  Entrance,  on  the  K. 


LEON — SAN  tSEDOftO. 


231 


side  of  its  plaza.  The  once  admirable 
Puerta  del  Perdon  was  unfortunately 
blocked  up  when  the  front  was  forti- 
fied during  the  French  invasion  ;  the 
three  windows  were  then  also  walled 
in,  except  the  central  one.  Observe 
over  the  walled-in  portal  the  three 
strictly  Byzantine  circular  decrescent 
arches.  Over  the  entrance  is  an  eques- 
trian statue  of  San  Isidoro,  sword  in 
hand,  and  riding  a  white  charger,  just 
as  he  was  seen  at  the  battle  of  Baeza, 
out-Santiagoising  el  mismisimo  Sefior 
Santiago.  The  actual  portal  is  com- 
posed of  a  triple  circular  arch  with 
pillars  at  the  sides.  The  tympanum  is 
decorated  with  bassi-relievi  coetaneous 
with  the  rest,  and  representing  Abra- 
ham's Sacrifice.  The  other  relievi 
are  Descent  and  Burial,  etc.,  and 
statues  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  which 
are  placed  at  the  sides.  The  Revival 
cornice  is  modern,  as  well  as  the  attic 
with  plateresque  pilasters,  and  the 
colossal  shield  of  Charles  V.,  in  whose 
reign  these  works  were  executed.  Ob- 
serve the  square  tower,  with  Romano- 
Byzantine  arches,  and  the  exterior  of 
the  round  chapeL  Remark  the  rudely 
imitated  Corinthian  pillars,  and  the 
strange  capitals  with  scroll-work  and 
animals. 

Interior. — Although  the  architects 
of  the  11th  century  employed  the  piers 
and  cylindric  pillars,  of  which  there 
are  examples  at  Ripoll,  San  Millan 
of  Segovia,  and  Cathedral  of  Jaca, 
they  more  generally  embedded  a  column 
half  its  diameter  in  each  front  of  the 
square  piers.  The  interior  is  divided 
into  three  naves,  low,  sombre,  narrow, 
the  waggon-vaulted  roof  resting  on 
groups  of  four  half-columns,  and  pro- 
jecting from  square  pier-shafts.  Some 
of  the  basements  are  in  shape  of  a  cross. 
The  capitals  are  composed  of  groups  of 
children,  animals,  and  foliage,  very 
delicately  sculptured  for   the  period, 


and  probably  later  than  the  11th  cen- 
tury. The  transept  is  lower  than  the 
central  nave,  and  the  clerestory  is  very 
high.  The  windows  are  all  Byzantine, 
and  here  observe,  as  well  as  in  the 
con:  ice,  the  characteristic  pattern  called 
ajedrezado,  from  its  resemblance  with 
a  chess-board  (ajedrez),  more  rarely 
met  than  the  jaquelado  in  the  begin- 
ning of  the  11th  century,  and  exem- 
plified in  archivolts  and  horizontal 
fringes  or  cornices.  Remark  in  the 
branches  of  the  transept  the  arches 
which  are  composed  of  segments  of 
circles,  festooned  with  lobes  in  their 
inner  part.  Between  the  images  of  the 
Virgin  and  Archangel  Gabriel,  and  to 
the  right  of  a  large  effigy  of  a  bishop, 
is  the  consecration  slab  of  this  church, 
by  the  Emperor  Alfonso  and  his  mo* 
ther  Sancha,  March  6,  1149.  To  the 
right  of  the  church,  looking  towards 
the  high  altar,  and  in  a  sombre  corner, 
lies  the  modest  and  holy  architect,  who 
continued  and  finished  the  edifice.  He 
was,  says  the  epitaph,  '  Vir  mire  absti- 
nent!® et  multis  florebat  miraculis.' 
Near  to  it  is  a  very  early  font,  with 
strange  Byzantine  relievi.  The  pre- 
sent square  high  chapel  was  built  in 
1513  by  Juan  de  Leon,  which  replaced 
the  former  Byzantine  presbytery  formed 
of  three  rounded  apses,  of  which  a 
lateral  one  still  remains,  of  small  di- 
mensions. The  former  windows  were 
also  substituted  by  florid  Gothic  ones, 
and  the  walls  strengthened  by  but- 
tresses. Lightning  fell  and  destroyed 
the  retablos  in  1811,  which  was  no 
loss  ;  but  the  stalls  and  splendid  stained 
glass  were  destroyed,  and  at  the  same 
time,  the  French,  that  other  thunder- 
bolt, sacked  the  church  and  carried 
away  a  silver  railing,  all  the  plate  of 
San  Isidoro's  tomb,  the  camarin,  and 
reliquaries  and  crosses  of  very  early 
date  (some  of  1095).  The  patron  saint 
lies  in  a  silver  coffin,  on  the  altar.  The 


232 


LEON — SAN  ISIDORO. 


former  one  was  all  gold,  and  the  prey 
of   Alonso    of    Aragon,    who    was    a 
church    pillager,    just    like   Pedro    el 
Cruel    and    so   many  Spanish  kings. 
This  tomb  was  once  a  great  object  of 
pilgrimages,  and  upon  it  suitors  were 
adjured  to  tell  the  truth,  death  and 
blindness  pursuing  the  perjurers.    This 
early  custom,  authorised  by  the  law, 
and  followed  at  Barcelona,  was  sup- 
pressed by  the  Catholic  kings  in  1498. 
The  altar  is  one  of  the  few  in  Spain 
that  have  the  privilege  of  having  the 
Host  always  de  manifiesto,  or  visible. 
The  scene  is  very  impressive    in  the 
evening,  when  the  church  is  all  dark- 
ness and  filled  with  invisible  beings, 
mostly    women    clad    in    black,    and 
striking  their  breasts,  with  the  usual 
yawning  closed    by  the  sign  of   the 
cross  (to    prevent   devils  diving   in), 
and  the  '  Ay,   Madre  mia ! '  between 
yearning  after  rest  and  opening  the 
heart  to  the  Virgin ;  when,   too,   the 
altar  alone  is  illuminated,  rendering 
ghostly-visible    the  figures   of   angels 
kneeling  at  its  side.     The  chapels  are 
indifferent     That  on  the  left  of  high 
chapel  is  called  de  San  Martino,  and 
dates  1191.     It  was  founded  by  this 
saint,  who  was  an  idiot  and  a  pilgrim, 
to  whom  San  Isidoro  appeared  in   a 
dream,  and  gave  him  one  of  his  books 
to  eat  /    The  idiot  awoke  a  man  of  let- 
ters, and  preached  in  Latin.    His  body 
is   on  the  altar,    in  a  silver-gilt  pla- 
tcresque  reliquary.    The  several  relics 
consist  of  an  agatha  chalice,  a  present 
of  Dona  Urraca,  whose  husband,  Alonso 
el  Batallador,  carried  away  the  patena. 
A  cross  with  relievi,  and  a  small  ban- 
ner, guion,  on  which  Alfonso  VII.  had 
the  image  of  San  Isidoro  embroidered, 
and  represented  as  he  had  appeared  to 
him  at  Baeza. 

Pantheon. — It  was  built  in  the  11th 
century,  and  contains  the  bodies  of 
eight  generations  of  monarchs.     It  is 


placed  in  the  cloisters,  and  is  a  small 
chapel  dedicated  to  Sta.  Catalina, 
whose  tawdry  image  is  on  the  altar. 
It  is  sombre  and  low,  and,  like  the 
church,  has  been  fatally  bedaubed.  El 
Tudense  ascribes  it  to  Alfonso  V.,  but 
it  was  more  likely  Fernando  I.  The 
square  form  has  been  modified,  and 
was  probably  oblong  and  larger.  The 
windows  were  walled  in,  only  two  now 
lighting  the  dismal  home  of  the  early 
Kings  of  Leon  and  Castile.  The  sol- 
diers of  Soult  desecrated  it,  opened  the 
tombs,  confused  the  inscriptions,  and 
cast  the  ashes  to  the  wind.  Of  the 
thirty  former  tombs,  there  are  only 
twelve  now,  all  ill  authenticated,  save 
that  of  Alfonso  V.  and  Dona  Sancha. 
Here  are  buried  eleven  kings  and 
twelve  queens,  with  a  mob  of  little 
infantes  and  infantas.  A  regular 
printed  catalogue  is  sold,  and  every 
tomb  vouched  for.  The  chapel  itself 
will  interest  archaeologists,  as  it  is  a 
perfect  example  of  the  Byzantine  of 
the  11  th  century.  The  morrice  low 
pillars,  with  bastard  Corinthian  capi- 
tals, deserve  notice ;  the  inscriptions 
are  curious  and  laconic  The  roof  is 
the  greatest  curiosity,  and  remains  as 
it  was  when  built  and  ornamented  in 
the  11th  century.  The  arches  are  orna- 
mented with  stars  and  the  herring- 
bone patterns.  Notice  very  especially 
the  pointed  vaults,  which  date  from 
the  11th  century.  They  are  among 
the  earliest  paintings  in  Spain,  and 
represent  different  subjects.  The  draw- 
ing is  incorrect,  the  dark  purple  colour- 
ing predominating,  but  the  composition 
is  not  ineffective.  They  are  chiefly 
subjects  from  Scripture,  comprising 
the  Old  Testament,  which,  we  may 
remark,  has  never  been  so  often  re- 
sorted to  by  Spanish  painters  and 
sculptors  as  the  New.  Observe  espe- 
cially Adam  and  Eve,  a  Guardian 
Angel,    Massacre    of    Innocents,    Our 


LEON — SAN   MARCOS. 


233 


Savijur  and  the  Four  Evangelists. 
Under  an  arch  observe  also  the  signs 
of  the  zodiac  and  personification  of 
months.  January  and  February  are 
defaced ;  March  is  represented  by  a 
wood-cutter  at  his  work  ;  April,  by  the 
planting  of  young  trees  ;  May,  the  sea- 
son for  journeys  to  Verariear,  by  a 
traveller  on  a  mule ;  June  and  July, 
by  a  reaper  and  the  harvest ;  August, 
September,  and  October  represent 
scenes  from  the  vintage ;  November, 
by  a  woman  killing  a  pig ;  and  De- 
cember, by  a  man  drinking  before  a 
Christmas  fire.  The  months  are  in- 
scribed, as  also  several  animals  and 
scenes. 

Cloisters.  —  They  have  been  mostly 
modernised,  the  Ionic  being  substituted 
for  the  Gothic  ;  vestiges  of  the  latter  may 
yet  be  seen  on  the  side  nearest  to  the 
church.  Inquire  for  the  '  Cuarto  de  Dona 
Sancha,'  which  forms  a  portion  of  her 
palace,  and  the  walls  of  which  were  painted 
in  her  time  (11th  century),  and  deserve 
close  examination.  The  subject  is  the 
foundation  of  San  Isidoro.  They  are  un- 
fortunately much  injured.  The  colouring 
is  excellent,  the  composition  good,  and  they 
are  in  the  style  of  the  early  Florentines. 
Turning  to  the  right,  and  descending  a 
few  steps,  we  enter  the  Library,  gutted 
by  the  French,  who  burnt  most  of  the 
valuable  books  and  the  precious  MSS.  of 
the  9th  and  10th  centuries  it  contained. 
(See  Morales  and  Risco.)  We  have  seen 
a  Bible  of  a.d.  960,  written  by  Sancho, 
with  splendid  illuminations,  curious  for 
the  dresses,  attitudes,  etc. ;  a  breviary  of 
the  14th  century,  and  works  of  San  Isi- 
doro, etc.  Here,  in  1887,  Dr.  Rudolf 
Beer  discovered  the  earliest  palimpsest 
of  the  Lex  Romana  Visigothorum, 
written  over  with  a  MS.  of  the  10th  cen- 
tury. It  has  been  published  by  the 
Academy  of  History. 

In  the  Sacristy  are  a  small  curious 
diptych,  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin, 
and  a  fine  early  £mail,  and  relics 
among  them,  and  the  Virgin's  atiburn 
hair.  etc.     The  cloisters  are  spacious, 


full  of  light  and  sunshine,  with  fine 
views  of  Leon,  the  river,  and  San 
Marcos.  See  in  a  12th  century  chapel, 
opening  out  of  the  E.  of  the  cloisters, 
some  interesting  frescoes  newly  dis- 
covered. There  are  some  inscriptions 
in  the  cloisters,  two  very  early  between 
the  two  arches  opening  to  the  galleries 
of  the  audi  to ;  one,  relating  to  the  former 
and  earliest  edifice,  begins  :  *  Hanc 
quara  cernis  aulam  Sci.  Johannis  Bap- 
tiste  olim  fait  lutea, '  etc. 

San  Marcos.— As  the  cathedral  is  a 
gem  of  the  Gothic  x>f  the  13th  century, 
and  San  Isidoro  a  fine  and,  in  parts, 
well-preserved  monument  of  the  Byzan- 
tine of  the  11th  century,  San  Marcos  is 
a  wonderful  example  of  the  plateresque 
of  the  16th  century,  and  the  triumph 
of  Juan  de  Badajoz.  It  is  situated  in 
the  arrabal  (an  Arab  name  for  suburb) 
of  Renueva,  with  a  facade  looking 
on  the  Vernesga,  whose  windings  it 
commands,  along  with  the  verdant 
plains. 

History. — It  rises  on  the  site  of  the 
Palatial  Convent  of  the  Order  of  Santi- 
ago, the  most  illustrious  in  Spain,  and 
still  extant  It  was  at  first  (1170)  but 
a  humble  asylum  and  hostelry  for  the 
use  of  the  pilgrims  who  flocked  to 
Compostella,  and  was  given  to  the 
Order  of  St.  James  in  the  year  1173. 
The  first  'maestre  general'  of  the 
Order,  Encalada,  died  1184,  and  brave 
as  his  homonym,  and  more  wise,  de- 
served the  epitaph — an  exception  to 
the  French  saying,  '  Mentir  comme 
une  6pitaphe,'  'Mens  pia,  larga  ma- 
nus,  os  prudens  ;'  but  both  epitaph 
and  tomb  have  disappeared,  though 
not  the  sense,  which  is  still  practised 
by  the  present  Jesuits,  who,  with  their 
usual  refinement,  tact,  and  educational 
talents,  will  soon,  it  is  hoped,  un- 
Gothicise  the  good  Leonese.  The  re- 
putation of  this  conventual  stronghold 
of   the  Santiaguestes  spread  far  and 


234 


LEON — SAN  MARCOS. 


wide,  and  here  professed  many  brave 
knights,  and  amongst  them  the  hero  of 
the  "  Paso  honroso, '  Don  Suero  de  Qui- 
iiones.  (For  details  of  this  pas  cTarmes 
see  p.  123,  route  from  Leon  to  Coruna.) 
Towards  the  end  of  the  15th  century 
the  edifice  became  ruinous,  and  Fer- 
dinand the  Catholic  ordered  that  it 
should  be  pulled  down  and  a  new  one 
erected,  1514.  He  contributed  300,000 
maravedis  (£195)  a  year  to  the  works, 
which  he  confided  to  Pedro  Larrea, 
architect  of  the  Convent  of  Alcantara ; 
but  they  were  not  begun  until  the 
reign  of  Charles  V.,  about  1537.  The 
general  design  was  most  probably 
drawn  up  by  Larrea,  but  either  modi- 
fied or  abandoned,  and  new  ones  made 
by  Juan  de  Badajoz,  who,  there  is 
no  doubt*  traced  and  executed  the 
facades,  sacristy,  etc.  Owing  to  the 
change  of  residence  of  the  Order, 
and  other  circumstances,  the  works 
were  interrupted  from  1566  till  1602, 
when  the  Order  was  re-established 
here.  The  staircase  was  the  first  work 
(1615),  the  cloisters  and  chapels  follow- 
ed (1679),  and  the  principal  facade  was 
completed  (1715). 

Style,  proportions,  etc. — San  Marcos 
is  a  most  beautiful  and  perfect  example 
of  the  silversmith's  work  (plateresque) 
applied  to  the  Revival  architecture, 
and,  we  should  say,  the  masterpiece  of 
Juan  de  Badajoz.  The  extensive  build- 
ing forms  an  oblong,  and  is  composed 
of  the  church  to  the  E.,  and  the  monas- 
tery filling  the  rest  of  the  space. 

Church. — This  church,  not  long  since 
used  as  a  storehouse,  is  very  carefully 
and  intelligently  repaired  by  the  Jesuits. 
Observe  the  very  handsome  entrance, 
with  its  fine  arch  of  medio  punto,  with 
a  porch  and  unfinished  turrets,  with 
two  large  plateresque  niches ;  that  on 
right  containing  a  relievo  representing 
the  Crucifixion,  that  on  left  the  De- 
scent, both  by  Orozco.     They  are  finely 


executed,  but  considerably  damaged ; 
that  of  Descent  is  the  best  The  other 
niches  are  vacant  Remark  the  shell 
ornament,  the  fine  frieze  and  balustrade 
which  crown  the  porch,  within  which 
is  a  rose  and  shells.  The  triangular 
front  is  not  completed.  Between  two 
heralds  is  shield  of  Charles  V.  The  in- 
terior is  plain  and  noble,  composed  of 
one  nave,  with  fine  arcades  in  the  tran- 
sept The  roof  is  groined,  and  the 
pillars  plain.  The  windows  are  com- 
posed of  double  circular  arches ;  those 
in  the  high  chapel  and  transept  are 
painted.  In  the  chapels  they  are  of 
medio  punto,  except  those  below  the 
choir,  which  are  ogival.  The  high 
chapel  is  indifferent,  as  are  also  the  pul- 
pits and  rejas.  On  left  of  transept  is 
the  door  leading  to  the  cloister.  It  is 
very  richly  decorated  with  relievos  on 
the  arch,  columns,  frieze,  and  plater- 
esque window.  The  choir  is  elevated 
at  one  end.  The  stalls  are,  or  rather 
were,  beautifully  carved  by  Doucel 
(1542),  but  being  repaired  in  1721-23, 
and  some  that  were  wanting  being  com* 
pleted,  they  seem  churrigueresque  rather 
than  plateresque,  which  is  not  ascer- 
tained till  closely  examined.  Observe 
the  full-length  figures  from  the  New 
Testament  in  the  upper  row,  and  the 
busts  from  Old  Testament  in  the  lower, 
and  the  berruguete  carvings  on  the  arms 
of  stalls,  balustrades,  etc.,  representing 
athletes,  centaurs,  etc.  The  sacristy  is 
fine,  with  a  lofty  groined  roof,  and  three 
elegant  windows,  divided  by  a  central 
pillaret.  Observe  the  excellent  plater- 
esque niche -work,  medallions,  and 
busts.  The  retablo  represents  the 
Father  with  Cherubs,  and  is  surmount- 
ed by  a  *  Vision  of  Santiago. '  The  room 
close  to  it  is  plain,  but  in  keeping. 

Cloister. — Formed  of  two  orders  of 
medio  punto,  spacious  arches.  There 
are  some  good  artesonado  ceilings,  espe- 
cially in  the  portion  allotted  to  the 


LEON — MINOR  CHURCHES. 


235 


prior.  Visit  the  cell  where  Quevedo, 
who  was  a  knight  of  Santiago,  was  con- 
fined for  haying  written  a  satirical 
'memorial '  against  the  Conde  Duque, 
and  which,  at  the  king's  table,  was 
found  under  Philip  IV.'s  napkin,  and 
immediately  ascribed  to  the  discontent- 
ed poet.  In  a  letter  to  his  friend,  Adam 
de  la  Parra,  Quevedo  complains  of  the 
damp  and  darkness  of  his  dungeon, 
*  which, '  he  says,  '  looks  more  like  a  den 
fit  only  for  thieves,  than  a  prison  to 
confine  an  honest  man  in  ;  and  to  this 
I  have  been  driven  by  a  man  who  is  now 
my  enemy  only  because  I  would  not  be 
his  favourite  (privado). '  And  here  he 
remained  from  December  1639  to  June 
1643. 

Convent. — The  interior  is  not  inte- 
resting, and  is  scarcely  worth  the  trouble 
of  applying  to  the  padres  for  permission 
to  visit  it,  however  readily  they  grant 
it.  The  great  feature  of  this  part  of  the 
edifice,  and,  indeed,  of  the  whole,  is  the 
facade,  grand  and  gloriously  sculptured. 
The  line  is  continuous,  simple,  and 
correct.  It  is  composed  of  two  storeys : 
the  upper  one  is  decorated  with  medio 
punto  windows  and  elegant  plateresque 
pilasters ;  the  second,  or  lower,  by 
oblong  balconies,  with  balustraded 
columns,  separated  by  statueless  niches. 
The  friezes  and  festooning  are  copies 
from  Raphael's  Loggie.  Over  the  upper 
frieze  runs  an  elegant  cornice,  and  an 
open-work  antepecho,  with  candela- 
brum-work at  intervals.  Observe  the 
medallions  under  the  lower  frieze,  with 
projecting  busts,  both  historical  and 
mythological,  from  sacred  Scripture 
and  from  fancy ;  and  curiously  enough, 
though  perhaps  not  as  much  as  may 
seem  at  first,  from  the  higher  general 
idea  that  inspired  the  sculptor,  we  see 
Hercules  close  to  the  Cid,  Charlemagne 
with  that  other  Charles  the  Great,  call- 
ed Carlos  Quinto,  Julius  Ceesar  in  good- 
ly company  with  Alexander  and  Philip 


II.,  and  Judith  with  Isabella  la  Cattf* 
lica  and  Lucrecia  not  far  off.  The 
busts  to  the  right  of  portal  are  all  por- 
traits of  the  masters  of  Santiago.  These 
alto-relievo  busts,  disfigured  now  and 
mutilated  by  the  unsparing  hand  of  foe 
and  countryman,  are  severe  and  antique 
in  style,  and  worthy  of  Berruguete  or 
Becerra.  They  are  mostly  the  work  of 
Orozco  and  Guillermo  Doucel,  though 
some,  easily  distinguishable  by  the  great 
and  marked  inferiority  of  execution,  are 
much  later.  The  entrance  is  not  so 
fine,  and  the  churrigueresque  has  been 
busy  here,  as  may  be  gathered  from  the 
bastard  statues  of  Fame  blowing  a 
trumpet,  an  incongruous  specimen  of 
the  savoir-point-faire  of  Martin  de  Suin- 
aya,  1715-19.  Remark,  however,  and 
not  by  him  or  of  his  time,  the  eques- 
trian statue  of  the  warrior-saint  Sant- 
iago, whose  greatest  miracle  has  been 
to  found  churches,  win  battles,  and 
raise  loans  in  Spain,  a  country  which 
he  never  visited. 

Minor  Churches. — San  Clodio,  op- 
posite to  the  vast  but  unmeaning  Casa 
de  Espositos  (not  des  petits  Maris,  as  a 
French  author  hurriedly  translated  it, 
but  of  foundlings),  is  now  but  a  ruin  ; 
it  was  very  interesting,  but  was  sold 
latterly  for  4000r.  (£42),  and  demolish- 
ed. It  was  rebuilt  1530.  The  cloisters 
were  most  beautiful.  The  Convent  of 
Santo  Domingo  was  considerably  in- 
jured, and  almost  destroyed,  by  the 
French  in  1810,  and  has  some  good 
sepulchres  of  the  Guzmanes. 

Of  the  twelve  other  churches,  most 
of  them  are  very  indifferent :  Chapel  de 
Sta.  Nona,  outside  the  town ;  Church 
of  El  Salvador  del  Nido,  a  nest  for  un- 
fledged souls.  All  good  Italians  will 
visit  it,  as  it  was  near  its  high  altar 
that  the  ill-fated  Charles  Albert,  on 
April  8,  1849,  after  the  battle  of  Novara, 
publicly  partook  of  the  communion. 

Church  of  San  Marcelo. — Built  in  the 


236 


LEON — GATES  AND  WALLS. 


9th century  by  King  Ramiro  I.,  rebuilt 
in  1096,  and  modernised.  The  portal 
embedded  in  the  wall  is  of  the  13th 
century,  with  a  relievo  representing 
the  Virgin  Mary  seated,  receiving  the 
homage  of  kneeling  angels.  This  small 
chapel  was  subsequently  rebuilt  and 
dedicated  to  San  Marcelo,  a  warrior 
and  a  saint.  It  is,  however,  not  very 
interesting.  The  parish  church  of 
Santa  Maria  del  Mercado  contains 
three  fine  spacious  naves,  with  win- 
dows flanked  by  Byzantine  pillars; 
observe  the  circular  arches  and  curious 
capitals ;  the  high  altar  and  retablo 
are  absurd. 

Public  Edifices.— The  Bishop's  Pa- 
lace and  Seminary  in  Plaza  de  la  Cate- 
dral  are  not  worth  visiting.  Plaza 
Mayor, — This  large  square  is  surrounded 
by  portales,  formed  by  medio  punto 
arches.  The  Town  Hall,  or  Consistorio, 
as  it  is  often  called  in  Castile  and  As- 
turias,  is  to  W.  of  the  plaza,  and  dates 
1677.  It  is  indifferent,  though  large, 
with  a  slate  roof,  towers,  and  Corinthian 
pillars  in  the  portal.  The  principal 
facade  of  the  edifice  is  to  the  right ;  it 
is  classical,  and  the  work  of  Juan  de 
Rivero  (1585),  who  built  it  for  4000 
ducats  (£880).  On  the  cornice  of  its 
Hall  of  Sessions  we  read  some  old 
heraldic  quintillas,  which  end  in  this 
epitome  of  the  history  of  Leon  : — 

Tuvo  veinte  y  cuatro  reyes, 
Antes  que  Castilla  leyes. 
Hizo  el  fuero  sin  querellas, 
Libertd  las  cien  doncellas. 
Le  las  infernales  greyes. 

Cam  de  los  Guzmanes. — Situated  in 
the  corner  of  Calle  del  Cristo  de  la  Vic- 
toria, on  the  site  of  a  former  edifice 
which  was  the  birthplace  of  Don 
Guzman  el  Bueno,  who  was  born  at 
Leon,  January  24,  1256,  and  from 
whom  the  ex-Empress  of  the  French  de- 
scends.    The  actual  palace  was  built, 


1560,  by  one  of  this  great  and  wealthy 
family,  D.  Juan  Quinones  y  Guzman, 
Bishop  of  Calahorra.  On  Philip  II.  'a 
visit  to  Leon,  as  his  courtiers,  some 
friends  of  the  bishop,  were  praising  the 
building,  and  were  mentioning  in  a 
friendly  way  the  thousands  of  cwts.  of 
iron  employed  in  it,  the  king  severely 
observed,  punning  by  the  way,  '  En 
verdad  que  ha  sido  mucho  yerro  (iron, 
and  also  a  mistake,  in  Talleyrand's 
sense  :  '  e'est  plus  qu'un  crime,  e'est 
une  faute')  para  un  obispo.'  The  style 
is  plain,  however,  and  severe.  Over  the 
portal  is  the  inscription  put  up  by  the 
bishop,  and  running :  '  Ornanda  est 
dignitas  domo ;  domo  dignitas  non 
tota  quserenda. '  Observe  the  Ionic  pil- 
lars supporting  warriors,  the  numberless 
iron  railings  and  balconies,  and  the 
patio  and  winding  stone  staircase,  etc. 
It  is  now  neglected,  and  close  to  this 
palacio  is  that  of  the  Marquis  of  Villasin- 
ta,  flanked  by  towers  and  with  handsome 
balconies.  Observe  also  that  of  the 
Gutierrez.  On  the  frieze  of  the  central 
balcony,  the  inscription  of  the  16th 
century  (of  which  the  house  dates), 
*  Solum  viro  forti  patria  est. '  The  Cosa 
de  los  Lunas  is  not  finished ;  it  has  a 
Gothic  portal  of  the  13th  century,  an 
elegant  patio,  and  an  arch  with  exquisite 
arabesque.  It  now  belongs  to  the  Duke 
of  Frias. 

Gates  and  Walls. — Of  the  Roman 
period  vestiges  still  remain,  notwith- 
standing the  many  sieges  and  partial 
destruction  by  Almanssour.  There  are 
portion  of  walls  to  the  W.,  E.,  and  N. ; 
that  to  the  S.  has  been  much  built 
against ;  but  though  the  walls  have 
been  often  repaired,  and  the  upper  por- 
tion modernised,  yet  the  basement  is 
Roman.  There  were,  as  usual  in 
mediaeval  cities,  four  principal  gates 
placed  at  the  cardinal  points.  Close  tc 
the  Casa  de  los  Guzmanes  was  the  W, 
gate,  '  Cauriense,    whence  Cures  ;  and 


LEON — EXCURSIONS  IN  THE  VIERZO. 


237 


the  circular  arch  of  the  S.  gate  may 
still  be  seen,  or  rather  guessed,  in  the 
Plazuela  del  Conde  de  Luna,  embedded 
in  a  wall,  against  which  some  hovels  are 
heaped  together.  The  E.  gate  was  be- 
hind the  present  cathedral,  and  the  N. 
was  modernised  1759,  and  a  statue  of 
Pelayo  placed  upon  it.  Close  to  it  is 
the  Portigo,  where  there  was  a  castle. 
Of  the  gates  erected  about  1324,  most 
have  been  subsequently  disfigured ;  see, 
however,  Puerta  de  Santo  Domingo ; 
Puerta  Moneda,  decorated  in  1759  with 
a  statue  of  Charles  III. ;  de  San  Fran- 
cisco Gallega ;  those  of  El  Sol,  El  Peso, 
etc. 

The  streets  are  indifferently  paved ; 
the  best  shops  in  Plaza  Mayor.  The 
Mercado  may  be  visited  for  dress  and 
customs  of  the  Ghcurros  and  other  types. 
There  is  an  indifferent  theatre,  contain- 
ing twelve  spectacles,  and  a  public 
library  of  4000  unclassified  volumes  and 
MSS.  in  the  suppressed  convent  of 
Santa  Catalina.  The  paseos  are  all  out- 
side the  town,  except  the  lounge  in  the 
Plaza  Mayor,  towards  evening.  The 
most  fashionable  are  La  Ronda  or  Papa- 
laguinda,  on  the  left  of  the  Vernesga, 
and  Paseo  de  San  Francisco. 

Excursions  in  the  Vierzo  and  Ma- 
ragateria.— Those  who  have  leisure,  and 
whom  wild  districts  and  Alpine  scenery 
delight,  and  who  can,  besides,  conjugate 
the  verb  to  rough  it  in  all  tenses  and 
senses,  may  undertake  these  two  ex- 
cursions, which  will  lead  them  through 
terra  incognita  to  most  tourists,  and 
amid  pastoral  life  in  all  its  reality  and 
some  of  its  poetical  characteristics  ; 
and  first  to  the  Vierzo.  The  tourist 
will  proceed  first  to  Astorga  (see  Corufta, 
route  from  Leon),10£  leagues  (36  miles), 
thence  to  the  small  town  of  Villafranca 
del  Vierzo,  12$  leagues  farther,  which 
may  be  made  a  convenient  head-quar- 
ters. V  illafranca,  though  once  the  rival 
of  Ponferrada,   is  now  rather  a  poor 


place  of  5000  inhabitants,  but  with 
good  caza  mayor  and  me  nor,  and  excel- 
lent fishing  in  its  neighbourhood.  It 
is  situated  on  the  Burbia  and  Valcorce, 
and  is  of  considerable  antiquity.  The 
only  object  of  interest  to  be  seen  now, 
however,  is  the  Church  of  Santiago 
(Byzantine),  which  stands  on  the  right 
of  the  castle.  The  Colegiata  may  also 
be  visited — three  naves,  a  high  cupola 
over  transept,  and  Graeco-Roman  portals 
— and  the  Church  of  San  Francisco- 
Byzantine,  but  modernised. 

The  Vierzo.— This  district,  60  miles 
long  by  50  broad,  lies  between  Villa- 
franca, Astorga,  Ponferrada,  Puebla  de 
Sanabria,  and  Puente  de  Domingo.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  N.  side  by  two 
branches  of  the  Asturian  range  ;  to  the 
W.  by  the  Puerto  de  Cebrero  (where 
excellent  Stilton-like  cheese  is  made) 
and  Aguiar  (Aquilar)  which  separate  it 
from  Galicia  ;  to  the  E.,  and  on  the 
side  of-  Asturias,  by  the  Puertos  de 
Foncebadon  and  the  celebrated  Monte 
Trago,  which  towards  the  S.  are  linked 
to  the  Sierras  de  Cabrera  and  Sanabria, 
the  Roman  Montes  Aquilinae.  It  forms 
thus  a  cuenca,  a  sliell,  the  sides  of  which 
are  irregular,  and  the  centre  is  the  re- 
ceptacle of  the  countless  rivers  and 
streams  which  descend  from  the  slopes 
of  the  surrounding  hills,  the  alembics 
of  crystal  torrents.  This  concavity  or 
crater,  once  probably  a  lake,  has  an 
outlet  to  the  S.W.,  where  the  waters 
meet  and  burst  a  passage  out  into  Ga- 
licia, taking  the  generic  denomination 
of  the  river  Sil,  and  whose  waters  are 
considerably  increased  by  the  Baeza  and 
its  tributaries.  These  waters,  whether 
oozing,  filtering,  or  rushing  torrent- 
like,  according  to  the  period  of  the 
year,  flow  over  beds  of  slate,  through 
dips  and  ravines,  amid  vales  carpeted 
with  soft  moss,  watering  Swiss-like  ver- 
dant meadows,  and  washing  as  they 
pass  the  base  of  the  thyme-clad  hills. 


238 


LEON — THE  VTERZO. 


Thus  the  tourist  will  see  steep  and  im- 
posing sierras  rich  in  ore  (the  waters 
often  carry  down  into  the  valleys  par- 
ticles of  virgin  gold),  a  country  varied 
in  aspect  and  products,  where  the  vege- 
tation of  the  northern  climes  is  in  con- 
stant contrast  with  that  of  the  South  ; 
the  vine  grows  near  the  chestnut,  the 
olive  by  a  noble  oak,  and  the  larger 
rivers  are  seen  winding  in  broad,  quiet 
sheets  of  water  through  an  expanse  of 
screen  meadow-land,  where  flocks  of 
sheep  and  round-shouldered  cattle  pas- 
ture plentifully. 

The  Vierzo  is  a  name  derived  from 
the  Roman  Bergidum,  a  city,  the  site 
of  which  is  generally  placed  about 
50  m.  from  Astorga,  and  on  the  road 
from  it  to  Braga,  on  a  hill  called 
Castro  de  la  Ventora,  and  of  which 
now  but  a  few  vestiges  of  walls  remain. 
Ptolemy  called  this  river-girt  town 
Interamnium  Flavium,  though  this  is 
no  data,  as  Flavius  was  often  applied  to 
A.sturian  cities.  Historically,  the  Vier- 
zo formed  part  of  Galicia  until  the 
death  of  Ferdinand  I.,  when  it  was 
merged  into  the  reino  of  Leon.  In  the 
beginning  of  the  7th  century,  San 
Fructuoso,  the  son  of  the  pastoral 
Sheik  or  Conde  del  Vierzo,  chose  this 
secluded  district  to  people  it  with 
monks.  He  therefore  founded  the 
first  convent,  the  Monasterio  de  Com- 
pludo,  at  the  base  of  Monte  Fonceba- 
don,  near  to  the  source  of  the  Molina 
(606  a.d.)  His  sanctity  and  miracles 
attracted  hundreds  of  disciples.  The 
Vierzo  was  soon  studded  with  hermit- 
ages and  convents  ;  the  Benedictines 
first,  and  then  the  Cistercians  colonised 
the  wildest  portions.  It  became  the 
refuge  of  several  world-worn  kings,  who 
sought  repose  and  the  face  of  nature, 
more  friendly  and  truthful  than  that  of 
man.  Thus  Veremundo  lived  in  the 
Convent  of  Carracedo,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Cua,  Ordono  II.  rebuilt  that  of  SS. 


Pedro  and  Santiago,  etc.  The  Moors, 
however,  ravaged  this  peopled  solitude, 
and  destroyed  many  monasteries.  But 
in  the  9th  century  it  recovered  all  its 
former  popularity  and  veneration  among 
the  pious  of  the  land.  Many  of  the 
monasteries  are  still  extant,  others  have 
crumbled  down  through  age  and  neglect. 

The  principal  convents  and  churches 
to  visit  are — 

Sanvtiago  de  Pefialva  (about  12  m. 
from  Villafranca). — This  convent  was 
erected  by  San  Genadio,  and  conse- 
crated October  24,  919,  according  to 
the  inscription  on  the  left  of  the  portal 
leading  to  the  cloisters,  and  rebuilt  and 
repaired  937,  by  Fortis  and  Bishop 
Salomon.  There  is  a  grand  pilgrimage 
to  this  shrine,  where  the  relics  of  the 
founder  are  kept,  on  the  25th  of  May, 
which  is  attended  by  all  the  peasants 
of  the  Vierzo.  A  novel  spectacle  then 
takes  place,  which  artists  should  not 
omit.  Near  it  flows  the  Rio  de  Silencio, 
and  near  it  also  are  placed  the  Cuevas 
de  Silencio,  five  caves  in  which  the 
monks  used  to  pass  the  Lent  retreat. 
The  church  is  composed  of  one  single 
nave,  some  68  ft.  long  by  19  ft.  broad- 
It  forms  a  square  terminated  by  two 
circular  portions,  which  contain  the 
high  chapel  and  the  especial  chapel  and 
tomb  of  San  Genadio.  The  main  arches 
of  both,  and  that  which  divides  the 
body  of  the  church  into  two  compart- 
ments, rest  upon  large  marble  pillars. 
Round  the  church  outside  runs  a  closed- 
in  gallery,  or  cloister  cemetery,  very 
early,  yet  built  after  the  church  itself. 
The  tombs,  now  dilapidated,  are  curi- 
ous and  most  ancient,  but  none  bear 
inscriptions  save  that  of  the  French 
abbot  Etienne,  'Famulus  Dei  Franco,' 
whose  lengthened  epitaph  is  plain  and 
fine,  and  calls  him  '  Discretus,  sapiens, 
sobrius,  ac  patiens,'  a  good  definition  of 
Benedictines,  to  whom  this  convent  has 
belonged. 


^ 


LEON — THE  VIERZO. 


239 


San  Pedro  de  Monies  (about  5  m. 
further  west). — It  was  built  by  San 
Fructuoso,  and  repaired,  895,  by  San 
Genadio  and  Ordofio  II.  of  Galicia. 
The  chapel  was  the  work  of  Archbishop 
Vivianus,  who  died  in  odour  of  sanctity, 
as  well  as  the  abbot  of  this  Benedictine 
convent,  both  of  whom  are  buried  here. 
The  exterior  is  modern  ;  the  interior, 
three  Byzantine  naves,  each  closed  in 
by  a  circular  apse. 

Over  these  two  rise  the  Montes 
Aguilianos.  On  the  highest  of  the  hills, 
La  Aguiana,  stands  a  small  chapel  de 
N.  Senora.  The  view  from  it  spreads 
over  all  the  Vierzo.  Behind  soar  into 
the  skies  the  blue  peaks  and  gorges  of 
Cabrera ;  on  the  E.  the  eye  sweeps 
over  the  plains  to  Astorga,  and  to  the 
W.  the  vegas  of  Galicia  appear ;  the 
Oza  issues  from  this  hill,  and,  boiling 
noisily  under  San  Pedro,  flows  into  the 
valley  of  Valducza. 

Carracedo. — This  was  the  palace  of 
Veremundo,  who  converted  it  into  a 
convent,  dedicated  to  the  Saviour  (990), 
and  then  fixed  his  residence  at  the 
Palace  of  Villabuena,  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Cua,  and  H  league  higher 
than  Carracedo,  where  he  died  nine 
years  after.  (He  is  better  known  as 
Berniudo  II.)  It  was  repaired,  1138, 
by  the  Emperor  Alfonso,  and  became 
a  wealthy  Cistercian  monastery.  There 
are  some  very  curious  Byzantine  re- 
mains here,  belonging  mostly  to  the 
12th  centuiy,  though  there  are  some 
of  the  10th ;  the  church  was  modern- 
ised in  1796.  Observe  the  old  facade 
and  portal,  the  lintel  of  which  sup- 
ports two  bulls'  heads.  The  ruinous 
lateral  facade  possesses  still  greater  ori- 
ginality—sculptures of  the  Saviour, 
and  two  stiff,  rude  effigies  of  a  king  and 
a  priest  support  the  cornice.  Over 
their  heads  are  elaborate  capitals,  and 
their  feet  rest  on  two  other  ones, 
formed  of  monsters  and  fantastical  de- 


vices. The  portal,  of  which  there  art 
few  vestiges,  was  formed  by  three  de- 
crescent arches  resting  on  columns  ; 
two  of  the  latter  stood  before  the  effi- 
gies of  the  Emperor  Alfonso  and  the 
Abbot  Florencio,  who  began  the  church 
in  1138.  These  effigies  were  held  in 
great  veneration,  and  a  sceptical  shep- 
herd, who  dared  to  cast  some  oil  on  the 
hair  and  beard  of  the  emperor,  to  see 
if  they  would  grow,  was  instantly 
struck  blind,  and  did  not  recover  his 
sight  until  he  went  on  his  knees  before 
the  statue,  and  devoutly  begged  its 
pardon.  There  are  but  few  vestiges  of 
this  early  church.  Observe  the  horse- 
shoe adopted  here  in  several  portions. 
The  chapter-house  is  of  Alfonso's  time ; 
the  fine  halls  over  the  chapter-room 
are  the  only  remains  of  Bermudo's 
Palace,  the  longest  of  which  is  called 
the '  King's  Kitchen . '  Th  e  general  style 
is  more  of  12th  than  10th  century. 
Observe  the  twelve  Byzantino-Tedesque 
arches  decorating  the  walls  of  the  first 
room  ;  the  Byzantine  pillars  and  ogival 
archway  leading  up  to  the  principal 
room,  and  ornamented  with  angels 
playing  on  instruments,  the  relievo  re- 
presenting the  death  of  Bermudo,  and 
his  wife  holding  his  son  Alfonso.  In 
the  next  room,  observe  the  octagonal 
dome  and  artesonado  ceiling,  and  the 
fine  Byzantine  pillars  and  arches ;  a 
large  fire-place  in  a  corner,  the  agimeces 
and  wheel  window.  The  audience-hall, 
a  gallery  close  to  it,  is  very  fine,  and 
formed  by  three  arches,  of  which  the 
central  is  pointed,  and  the  two  others 
circular,  all  resting  on  columns. 

Following  the  Cua  up  to  its  conflu- 
ence with  the  Sil,  after  crossing  the 
latter,  and  ascending  the  hills,  2  leagues 
beyond,  is  the  Lake  of  Corucedo,  not  a 
corruption  of  Carrucedo,  as  many  might 
believe,  and  distinctly  stated  as  differ- 
ent in  a  writing  of  Bermudo  II.,  990. 
This  would  delight  the  lakists.    The 


240 


LEON — MARAGATOS. 


Tillage  of  El  Ijago,  with  its  white- 
washed houses  and  slate  roofs,  stands 
in  amphitheatre  around  the  lake,  the 
cafiaverales  of  which  teem  with  wild- 
fowl. The  lake  is  generally  still  as  a 
pond  ;  in  the  day,  it  is  like  to  a  corner 
of  the  blue  firmament  dropped  upon 
earth,  and  framed  by  woodland  and 
meadows,  and  at  night  it  is  not  less 
fair,  shining  with  a  myriad  golden 
twinkling  eyes,  the  stars  of  heaven ; 
but  when  the  S.  or  E.  winds  come  to 
blow,  the  quiet  lake  becomes  a  minia- 
ture sea.  Its  creddas  (or  swell)  extend 
then  upwards  of  14  league,  and  burst 
their  way  into  the  Sil ;  the  decrease, 
mmgua,  never  being  more  than  14 
league.  Some  geologists  are  of  opinion 
that  all  this  Cuenca  was  formerly  a  vast 
lake,  that  the  overflowing  arose  from 
great  internal  convulsions  in  the  neigh- 
bouring mines  of  'Las  Meduas,'  and 
that  the  present  lake  is  fed  by  nitrations 
through  subterraneous  channels.  Signs 
of  the  supposed  cataclysm  are  evident  at 
1  league  off,  S.  of  lake,  where  there  are 
vestiges  of  Roman,  excavations  ;  and 
huge  gaps  may  be  seen  in  the  rent-up 
sides  of  the  mountain  (the  Medulas, 
Mons  Medulis,  or  Metalas). 

Monastery  of  JEspinareda. — Of  the 
10th  century ;  repaired  and  modernised 
1768-1780.  Two  curious  sepulchral 
slabs,  one  of  the  Abbot  .Gutierre,  who 
established  the  Benedictine  Order  here 
in  1071 ;  and  some  Leonine  distichs, 
being  the  epitaph  of  the  fair  Jimena, 
who  won  the  stout  heart  of  Alfonso, 
the  conqueror  of  Toledo,  and  filled  the 
vacant  place  left  by  his  legitimate  wife. 
The  inscription  runs  thus: — 'Alfonsi 
vidua  regis  arnica  fuL  Copjp,  forma, 
genus,  Dos,  morum  cultus  amenus. 
Me  regnatoris  prostituere  thoris,'  etc. 
She  was  the  grandmother  of  the  first 
king  of  Portugal,  and  died  1128,  which 
date  corresponds  to  the  era  1166. 

An   easy  excursion    may  be   made 


through  the  Vierzo,  by  starting  from 
Ponferrada,  a  small  town  but  con- 
venient station,  16  miles  E.  of  Villa- 
franca,  on  the  Sil,  where  it  is  joined 

by  the 

Baeza  Route. 

League* 
Ponferrada. 

Borrenes 

Puente  Domingo  Flores 

Barco  de  Valdeorras 

Laroco    . 

Puebla  de  Trivas 


Burgo 

Villarino  Frio 
Nino  Daguia 
Orense 


a 
a 

3* 

a 

a 
a 
a 

3 


(6a  miles)        20J 


Another  Excursion. 

League 
Ponferrada  to  Espinosa  on  the  Missuelos  a 
Compludo 

Santiago  de  Penalva 
San  Pedro  de  Montes 
Ferradtilo 
Santa  Lucia  . 
Rimdr  .... 
Back  to  Ponferrada 


a 
4 
1* 

z 

* 
* 


Ponferrada  to  Carracedo,  2  leagues. 


'4 


The  best  streams  for  fishing  in  the 
district  are  the  Tera,  Eria,  Tuerto, 
Orbigo,  Cobrera,  Cua,  and  especially 
the  Erla  and  Sil. 

Maragateria. —  This  district,  with 
the  less  interesting  one  of '  Las  Batuecas' 
(see  Salamanca),  are  the  least  known 
untrodden  nooks  of  Spain.  The  Mara- 
gatos,  whose  name  has  been  diversely 
derived  (see  above,  p.  217),  form  a 
curious  and  interesting  tribe,  living 
exclusively  apart  from  the  rest  of  the 
populations  which  surround  them,  and 
preserving  to  this  day  their  quaint, 
picturesque  Oriental  dress  and  customs. 
Their  honesty  and  activity  are  pro- 
verbial, and  almost  all  are  carriers 
(arrieros),  going  on  foot,  by  the  side  of 
their  gaily-caparisoned  mules,  as  far  as 
Madrid,   to  sell    dry  fish,    eggs,   etc. 


LEON — MARAGATOS. 


241 


Their  marriage- -ceremonies,  funerals, 
and  public  dances  are  all  very  peculiar. 
They  assemble  twice  a  year  at  Astorga, 
the  capital  of  the  district,  at  the 
feasts  of  Corpus  and  the  Ascension. 
The  district  is  about  4  leagues  square, 
and  contains  thirty -six  villages,  of 
which  San  Roman  is  the  best  and  most 
interesting.  But  fine  churches,  art, 
or  traditions  must  not  be  sought 
here.  The  women  remain  at  home, 
or  work  in  the  fields,  and  are  not 
handsome. 

Other  Excursions  may  be  made  to  the 
Byzantine  Monastery  of  Sta.  Maria  de 
Gradefes,  5  leagues,  following  the  trout- 
teeming  Ezla,  founded  1177  for  Cister- 
cian nuns ;  mixture  of  Romanesque  and 
florid  Gothic,  early  tomb  curious  for 
dress  of  recumbent  effigies.  Half  a 
league  farther  is  the  Priorato  de  San 
Miguel  de  la  Escalada,  built  of  mud 
and  bricks — a  curious  specimen  of  the 
first  Byzantine  period.  The  Moorish 
portions  were  added  by  monks  come 


from  Cordova ;  the  original  portion 
dates  913.  One  league  W.  of  Escalada 
is  San  Pedro  de  Eslonza,  earlier  even 
than  the  10th  century,  but  often  altered 
since  ;  the  fine  cloisters  were  begun  in 
the  1 6th  century  by  Juan  de  Badajoz, 
and  finished  by  his  pupil,  Juan  de 
Rivero.  The  cruciform  plateresque 
church  is  by  Badajoz,  begun  1547  and 
finished  1719,  when  the  portal  and 
other  portions  were  churriguerised. 

Church  of  Sandoval,  on  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Porma  and  Ezla,  dates 
1142 ;  founded  by  Alfonso  VII.,  or 
more  probably  by  his  French  mayor- 
domo,  Count  Ponce  de  Minerve,  on  a 
low  marshy  ground  called  Soto  or  Santo 
Noval,  and  handed  over  to  the  Cister- 
cian monks.  Observe  the  capitals,  pila, 
the  retablo  mayor  with  relievos  of  his- 
tory of  St  Bernard  (16th  century), 
the  sacristia  of  17th  century,  Grseco- 
Roman  cloisters,  early  tombs  and  in- 
scriptions, and  the  Puerta  del  Crucero 
with  the  saw-teeth  ornament,  etc 


MADRID-ROUTES. 

tftrCAart). 
From  Bayonno  (A)  by  San  Sebastian,  Burgoo,  and   Valladolid, 
by  rail. 


I— »«-• 


The  Railway  time  is  regulated  on 
the  line  from  Bayonne  to  the  Spanish 
frontier,  Hendaye,  by  the  Paris  meri- 
dian, and  from  I  run  onwards  by  the 
Madrid  meridian,  which  is  24  min.  be- 
hind that  of  Paris  ;  while  that  of  Ba- 
yonne is  16  min.  behind. 

Tickets  may  be  taken  at  Bayonne, 
Bureau  Central  des  Chemins  de  Fer 
du  Midi ;  at  Madrid,  Puerto,  del  Sol 
No.  9  ;  also  at  Cook's  offices,  5  Carrera 
de  San  Gerdnimo.  Children  under 
three  do  not  pay  ;  from  three  to  six 
pay  half-price. 

Luggage,— ZO  kil.  (661bs.)are  allowed 
to  each  passenger.  Luggage  must  be 
registered,  which  is  done  on  presenta- 
tion of  the  ticket  at  the  station.  The 
ticket  and  luggage  offices  close  5  min. 


a__l- 

Omnibus   for  Biar- 

riti  »  min. :  15c. 

per  parcel. 

Hendaye— French 

Carriages:  changed 

••"ppage,  10  min. 

Iiuu  --buffer,  Span- 

BSiSsaa 

Omnibuses  at   Ihe 

From  Paris  to  Ba- 

Jl 

j        In  Spanish  Money. 

™"V°™**™; 

|       Pes.  c.  Pes.  &    Pes.  c. 

M      V  3S     S7  9°    3S  3° 

Spain.' 

before  hour  of  departure.  Foreigners 
will  do  well  to  have  their  fares  cal- 
culated, and  their  money  ready,  before 
taking  their  tickets.  Ladies'  and 
smokers'  carriages  are  found  in  express 
and  mail  trains  only.  Special  trains 
are  granted  at  the  rate  of  44r.  per  kil. 
(12s.  8d.  per  mile),  and  not  for  lest 
than  110  pes.  (£4 :  8a.)  There  are  no 
return  or  season  tickets,  eicept  between 
Madrid  and  the  Kecorial  and  Aranjuez. 
All  reclatnacioues  forluggage  lost,  etc., 
to  be  addressed  to  Sr.  Director  de  la 
Explotacion  del  Ferro  Canil  del  Nnrtc, 
Madrid,  Bey  Francisco  No.  2,  and  the 
gefoa  de  tren  (guards)  or  gefea  de  es- 
tacton  (stationmasters).  The  rate  of 
express  speed  is  on  an  average  40  kil. 
(25  miles)  an  hour. 


Pablisliedlp'  A.&  C  Black.  Loudon. 

* 


s 


N 


\ 


\ 


\ 


\ 


MADRID — ROUTES. 


243 


■ 


Carriages  are  changed  at  Hendaye, 
as  the  Spanish  railway  is  constructed 
on  the  broad  gauge  principle,  whilst 
the  French  have  adopted  the  narrow 
gauge.  This  difference  was  established, 
it  is  said,  at  the  request  of  the  Spanish 
Government  with  a  view  to  impede 
communications  in  case  of  war  between 
the  two  countries. 

Buffets. — Miranda,  Burgos,  Sottas, 
Valladolid,  Medina,  Avila,  Madrid. 
All  kept  by  French  restaurateurs.  The 
Axed  price  for  table  d'hdte  dinner  is 
14r.  (38.),  for  breakfast  ditto,  12r. 
(J2s.  6d.)    The  carte,  or  lista,  is  higher. 

The  principal  works  of  the  line, 
which  rank  among  the  first  in  Europe 
for  engineering  skill,  run  through  the 
northern  provinces,  where  there  are 
some  very  steep  inclines. 

It  is  a  most  interesting  route  from 
Bayonne,  as  it  passes  important  cities, 
and  traverses  the  woody  and  verdant 
Basque  Provinces,  and  the  imposing 
plains  of  Castile.  Omnibuses  at  stations 
for  hotels,  2r.  50c. ;  per  trunk,  not  ex- 
ceeding 40  kil.,  3r. ;  if  exceeding,  lr. 
for  every  10  kil.  more  ;  a  small  trunk, 
maleta,  2r.  By  night  service,  2r.  more 
per  passenger. 

Tours  by  Road. 

Bayonne. — (15  hours'  ride  by  rail 
from  Paris).  Hotels:  Du  Commerce, 
Rue  du  Gouvernement,  De  St.  Etienne, 
Place  d' Armes  —  good  ;  Du  Panier 
Fleuri,  Rue  des  Arcenux,  good  com- 
mercial. Omnibuses  from  stations  to 
hotels  50c.  and  25c.  per  eolis. 

Bayoune  is  a  small  for  titled  town  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Adour  and  the 
Nive ;  26,000  inhabitants,  a  chef  lieu  of 
the  Basses  Pyrenees,  bishop's  see,  etc. 
The  fortifications  and  citadel  are  the 
work  of  Vauban.  The  style  of  the 
houses,  and  dress  of  lower  orders,  is 
Basque.   St.  Esprit  is  the  Jews'  quarter. 


and  here  reside  the  descendants  of  those 
who  escaped  the  faggot  of  the  Inqui- 
sition under  Philip  II.  They  are 
numerous,  uncleanly  as  usual  in  their 
houses  and  appearance,  and  retain  their 
old  Spanish  and  Portuguese  names,  and 
fortunes.  Most  of  the  great  Jewish 
capitalists  in  France  proceed  from  Ba- 
yonne— the  Pereires,  Mires,  etc.,  and 
are  called  politely  des  Israelites  ;  for,  as 
Heine,  one  of  them,  wittily  defined  it, 
1  un  Israelite  est  un  Juif  enrichi.'  The 
great  sight  is  the  cathedral — a  time- 
honoured  Gothic  pile,  founded  1140, 
and  enlarged  1213,  and  one  of  the  many 
churches  built  in  Gascoigne  by  the 
English  when  masters  of  the  country. 
The  cloisters  are  among  the  largest  in 
France.  St.  Andre\  repently  built,  is 
a  plain,  elegant  edifice.  Here  may  be 
seen  a  fine  painting  of  the  '  Assump- 
tion,' by  Bonnat.  Bayonne  is  cele- 
brated for  its  chocolate,  hams,  and  the 
invention  of  the  bayonet.  The  choco- 
late formerly  all  came  from  Spain,  and 
as  Bayonne  is  a  frontier  town,  it  was 
smuggled  in  considerable  quantities; 
and  had  in  consequence  a  sweater  taste. 
It  is,  nevertheless,  very  well  imitated. 
The  hams  of  Bayona  in  Galicia,  and 
not  of  that  in  France,  are  the  authentic 
ones  ;  as  for  the  bayonet,  that  was  in- 
vented long  before  the  time  assigned 
by  the  native  panegyrists.  There  is 
an  excellent  public  library  and  museum, 
both  open  daily  from  2  to  4  p.m.  ;  a 
good  theatre ;  music  on  the  Place 
d' Armes  on  Thursday  and  Sunday 
evenings,  and  a  pretty  promenade 
along  the  river,  called  Les  Allies 
Marines ;  two  English  cemeteries,  in  one 
of  which,  begun  by  Mr.  Harvey,  H.B.M. 
Consul  in  1830,  rest  the  officers  and 
men  of  the  2d  Life  Guards,  who  fell 
during  the  fruitless  siege  of  the  town 
by  the  Duke  of  Wellington  in  1814. 
Half-a-mile  S.  are  the  ruins  of  Chdteau 
Marrae,  built  1707  by  Maria  of  Neu- 


244 


MADRID — ROUTES. 


bourg,  queen  of  Spain,  and  where 
Charles  IV.  of  Spain  and  his  son 
Ferdinand  resigned  the  crown  into  the 
hands  of  Napoleon,  1808. 

Post  Office,  opposite  the  Vieux  Cha- 
teau, once  the  temporary  residence  of 
Catherine  de  Medici.  Money  Changers, 
Rue  du  Gouvernement.  N.B. — English 
silver  or  French  gold  should  be  changed 
here.  English  sovereigns  are  taken 
in  Spain,  but  only  at  bankers'  and 
hotels.  Brit.  Con.,  M-  Paul  Shoedelin. 
Bankers  (at  Biarritz,  International 
Bank),  Rodrigues  and  Salcedo,  Rue 
Pont  Mayou.  Carriages  of  all  sorts, 
post-horses,  etc.,  hired  at  Darrigrand's. 
Large  cafe,  'Farnie,'  opposite  the 
theatre.  Doctor,  M.  Lasserre.  Apothe- 
cary, M.  Lobenf,  Rue  Chegarry. 

Excursions  from  Bayonne  to  Pau;  three 
trains  a  day,  4  hrs.  To  Cambo,  a  Swiss-like 
little  Basque  village  on  the  Nive,  by  rail. 
Hotels,  de  France,  d'Angleterre,  Paris.  The 
rail  goes  as  far  as  Pied  du  Port,  and  is  to 
be  continued  to  Baigorry.  To  Dax,  by  the 
river,  5  hrs.  (by  steamers  which  generally  leave 
on  Fridays  and  return  next  day;  also  by 
rail).  To  Peyrehorade,  a  hrs. ;  steamers,  three 
times  a  week ;  good  view  of  the  pleasant  banks 
of  the  river.  A  splendid  view  of  the  Pyrenees, 
city,  and  the  distant  sea,  is  obtained  from  the 
fine  Casa  Caradoc,  a  villa  in  the  Mansard  style, 
built  by  the  late  Lord  Howden,  at  St.  Esprit. 
To  Biarritz,  rail  or  tram.  We  recommend  the 
drive  by  the  Barre  and  lighthouse,  and  return 
by  the  high  road  ;  conveyances  every 'quarter 
of  an  hour,  35  inin.  by  latter,  and  1  hr.  by  tbe 
Barre. 

Hall -way  by  the  Barre  may  oe 
visited  the  nunnery  of  Le  Befuge, 
founded  by  the  Abb£  Cestac.  It 
consists  of  two  orders — *  Les  Servantes 
de  Marie,'  who  teach  the  poor,  make 
linen,  etc.,  and  have  converted  the 
former  sterile  dunes  into  thriving 
pi&adas  and  maize  fields ;  and  the 
female  Trappists,  called  *  Les  Bernar- 
dines,'  whose  long  white  woollen  dress 
and  vow  of  perpetual  silence  are  so 
meritorious  in  talkative,  toilet-loving 
French  ladies. 


(  Biarritz. — Hotels:  Victoria,  Grand, 
;  Continental,  d'Angleterre,  des  Princes, 
du  Palais  (former  residence  of  Napoleon 
(III.).  Fine  Saline  Baths,  the  water 
for  which  is  brought  in  pipes 
from  the  springs  of  Salies-en-Bearn. 
This  nopular  place  of  resort  is  admir- 
ably situated,  with  its  amphitheatre  of 
snowy  houses  scattered  over  its  de- 
clivities ;  the  climate  is  delightful,  and 
superior  to  Pau  in  many  respects.  The 
sea-bathing  excellent ;  three  beaches. 
The  view  from  the  C6te  des  Basques 
sweeps  over  a  second  Neapolitan  hay  to 
the  blue-tinted  Spanish  mountains. 
There  is  a  good  casino.  The  'Villp 
Eugenie,1  the  late  imperial,  residence, 
is  happily  situated.  There  is  a  fine 
Anglican  Church,  S.  Andrew's,  with 
daily  service  and  weekly  communion 
(Rev.  W.  G.  Sharpin,  M.A.,  Chaplain) ; 
also,  during  the  winter  season,  Scotch 
Presbyterian  and  English  Roman 
Catholic  services.  Two  English  physi- 
cians, American  dentists,  British  Club, 
Lawn  tennis,  Fox  hounds,  Boar  hunts, 
Golf  Club,  etc.  The  winter  season 
(English)  is  from  October  to  May  ;  but 
the  summer  (bathing)  season  is  also 
very  animated. 


Excursions  may  be  made  from  Biarritz 
to  Bilbao,  Santandcr,  and  San  Sebastian. 
To  Fnenterrabia,  by  rail  to  Hendaye, 
and  ferry  across  the  Bidassoa  in  ten  minutes. 
Fuenterrabia,  Fons  Rapidus,  pop.  9500,  is  a  far 
better;  specimen  of  an  old  Spanish  town  than 
most  of  those  on  the  Spanish  frontier ;  and  its 
massive  walls,  stern,  gloomy  granite  houses, 
with  rejas  and  iron  balconies,  retain  much 
character.  The  castillo  was  built  in  10th  cen- 
tury by  the  king  of  Navarre,  Sancho  Abarca. 
The  facade  on  the,  plaza  is  of  the  16th  century. 
The  other  facade  was  rebuilt  by  Charles  V. 
The  church,  Gothic  inside,  and  the  exterior  of 
the  Revival,  contains  no  object  of  interest 
From  its  balcony  the  eye  sweeps  over  those 
plains,  the  site  of  one  of  the  last  feats  of  the 
British  arms  in  the  Peninsular  war — viz.  the 
Passage  of  the  Bidassoa.  Let  those  who  have 
come  thus  far  just  to  be  able  to  say  they 
I  have  been  in  Spain,  not  proceed  further,  at 


MADRID — ROUTES. 


245 


[run,  St  Sebastian,  etc.,  are  nothing  but  Basque 
towns  devoid  of  interest 

Resuming  our  railway  route  from 
Bayonne  to  Madrid,  we  soon  reach 
St.  Jean  de  Luz,  on  the  Nivelle: 
4000  inhab.  .  Hotels :  De  la  Poste  ; 
d'Angleterre  ;  de  France. — A  peaceful 
sea-bathing  resort,  and  a  good  specimen 
of  the  Basque  style  of  house  architec- 
ture, which  is  more  or  less  that  of  every 
hilly  rainy  country,  reminding  one  of 
Swiss  chalets  and  Russian  roadside  inns. 
There  is  a  pretty  Anglican  church  of 
the  Holy  Nativity,  with  well-appointed 
services,  the  Rev.  Th.  J.  Cooper,  M.A., 
Chaplain.  The  enterprising  natives 
have  always  been,  and  continue  to  be, 
engaged  in  whale-fisheries.  In  the  fine 
Basque  church,  Louis  XIV.  was  married 
to  Maria  Theresa,  daughter  of  Philip 
IV.  of  Spain  (June  9,  1660),  so  great 
an  honour  to  so  small  a  town,  that  the 
Gascon  song  runs  thus,  summing  up  the 
glories  of  the  city  : — 

Sen-Jan-de-Lutz,  p£tit  Paris, 
Bayonne  l'escudene ; 
Lou  Rey  que"  s'y  maride  ; 
L'Evesque  que'  y  es  mourt,* 
L'lntenden  que"  y  es  de'mourat 

The  Infanta  lodged  in  the  large  '  Casa 
de  la  Infanta/  on  the  square. 

There  is  a  small  village  upon  the 
left,  called  Urrugne,  a  great  ' centre' 
of  Basque  tennis-court  players.  Around 
the  dial  of  the  old  church  clock,  whose 
needles  have  the  shape  of  arrows,  run 
the  melancholy  words,  '  Vulnerant 
omnes,  ultima  necat.' 

Hendaye  (Grand  Hotel)  is  reached, 
the  last  French  town,  and  the  Bidassoa 
crossed.  Between  the  bridge  and  the 
sea  are  some  fords  practicable  only 
at  low  water.  In  1813,  the  Duke  of 
Wellington  forded  the  river;  the 
troops  climbed  boldly  the  hill  (La 
Rhone),  and  dislodged  Soult  and  his 

*  The  bishop  who  married  the  king  died 
three  days  after. 


army,  who  had  taken  up  positions  on  its 
slopes,  and  were  not  expecting  this  at- 
tack. The  Bidassoa,  which  separates 
the  two  countries  here,  flows  for  45  m., 
and  is  formed  by  two  streams,  coming 
from  Elizondo  and  £1  Baztan.  The 
mouth  of  the  river  is  defended,  on  the 
French  side,  by  Hendaye,  celebrated  for 
its  liqueur,  which  serves  to  keep  the 
frontier  folk  in  good  spirits,  and  on  the 
Spanishside  by  Fuenterrabia,  the  whole 
of  which  would  certainly  not  stand  an 
ordinary  gun-shot. 

In  the  river,  near  Behobie,  is  a  patch 
of  land,  some  square  yards  in  extent, 
pompously  called  Pile  de  la  Conference. 
Here  Louis  XIV.,  June  4,  1660,  con- 
trary to  etiquette,  had  a  first  interview 
with  Maria  Theresa  ;  but  it  is  difficult 
now,  without  looking  on  the  islet 
through  the  magnifying  glass  of  imagi- 
nation, to  agree  with  La  Fontaine,  who 
said : — 

Je  m'imagine  voir  avec  Louis  Je  Grand 
Philippe  Quatre  qui  s'avance 
Dans  Tile  de  la  Conference. 

1 1  is  not  longer,  says  Theo.  Gauthier, 
'  qu'une  sole  frito  de  moyenne  espece,' 
but  room  has  been  found  for  a  marble 
monument  to  record  that  event. 

Here  also  Louis  XI.  of  France  and  Henrique 
IV.,  1463,  met  to  negotiate  the  marriage  of  the 
French  Duke  of  Guienne,  when  the  paltry 
dresses  of  the  courtiers  excited  the  contempt 
and  indignation  of  the  Castilian  noblemen,  all 
velvets  and  lace.  Here,  again,  1645,  Isabella, 
daughter  of  Henri  Quatre,  subsequent  wife  of 
Philip  IV.,  was  exchanged  against  his  sister, 
Anna  of  Austria,  as  wife  for  Louis  XIII.  Here 
the  Treaty  of  the  Pyrenees  was  drawn  up  by 
Mazarin  and  Don  Luis  de  Haro  (1660).  Velas- 
quez, who  fitted  up  the  salon  for  the  conference 
between  his  sovereign  and  Louis  XIV.,  caught 
a  fever,  of  which  he  died  soon  after.  In  1526, 
the  exchange  of  Francis  I.,  a  prisoner  then  oil 
Charles  V.,  against  his  two  sons,  who  remained 
as  hostages,  took  place  in  the  middle  of  the 
river.  Francis  lustily  jumped  from  the  Spanish 
boat  into  another  manned  by  his  own  subjects, 
and  rowed  in  all  haste  to  the  shore,  when  he 
literally  fled  to  Bayonne,  forgetful  of  his  child- 
ren and  of  his  honour,  which  he  saved  at  Pavia, 


246 


MADRID — ROUTES 


as  he  wrote  to  his  sister.  The  limits  between 
the  two  frontiers  have  been  hard  to  settle,  not- 
withstanding the  supposed  labours  of  Commis- 
sions justly  called  sans  limit es^  appointed  ad 
hoc,  but  like  some  architects,  not  over  desirous 
of  crowning  the  edifice. 

Irun — {Fonda  de  Vasconia  ;  F. 
Echenique;  F.  Istueta). — In  the  Spanish 
Basque  province  of  Guipuzcoa,  of  which 
San  Sebastian  is  the  capital.  The 
dreaded  custom-house  officers,  vistas, 
call  on  us  to  deliver  up  our  trunks 
and  carpet-bags.  Look  not  too  cross 
nor  anxious — a  cigar  and  a  joke  go 
a  long  way,  but  bribing  is  of  no  effect 
here.  If  not  registered  throughout  ( Ba- 
yonne  to  Madrid),  have  your  luggage 
plombi,  to  avoid  further  visiles  on  the 
way ;  but  when  the  former  case  takes 
place,  the  luggage  is  visited  only  on 
arriving  at  Madrid,  and  when  coming 
from  Madrid,  at  Hendaye.  The  town 
is  uninteresting.  In  the  vicinity  is  the 
Hill  de  San  Marcial,  where,  August  31, 
1813,  12,000  Spanish  troops  under  Me- 
rino drove  headlong  back  18, 000  French 
commanded  by  General  Reille.  A  few 
miles  farther  to  the  right,  facing  the  sea, 
is  the  secure  Puerta  de  Pasages.  Whole 
fleets  have  lain  here  sheltered  from  the 
winds  and  enemy.  The  bay  narrows  at 
La  Punta  de  las  Cruces ;  Lafayette  sailed 
from  this  port  to  America. 

San  Sebastian. — Capital  of  Prov. 
of  Guipuzcoa  :  pop.  30,000.  One  of 
the  most  beautifully  situated  watering- 
places  in  Europe. 

Hotels :  Continental,  Londres,  and 
Angleterre,  all  close  to  the  plage,  and 
excellent;  pens,  from  10  pes.  Ezcurra 
and  Central,  pens,  from  8  pes. 

Cafes :  Suizo  on  the  Alameda ;  Oteizo, 
Oriente,  and  Furopa,  close  by  Casino. 

Post  Office :  Palacio  de  la  Diputacion. 
Telegraph  Office,  Calle  Fuenterrabia. 

British  Vice-Consul  and  U.S.  Con- 
sular Agent. 

The  town  is  built  on  an  isthmus  at 


the  foot  of  Monte  Orgullo  or  Urgull,  to 
which  it  is  joined  by  a  strip  of  land, 
and  between  two  bays.     This  plaza 
fuerte   is    strongly  defended   by  the 
Castle  de  la  Mota,  which  crowns  the 
hill,  and  since  it  has  become  a  royal 
summer  residence  has  been  immensely 
improved.     The  streets,  especially  the 
Avenida    de    la    Libertad    and    the 
Alameda,  are  broad  and  shady;  the  old 
town,  with  its  quaint  quay  and  small 
craft  moored  alongside,  is  picturesque ; 
the  beach — Playa  de  la  Concha — is 
magnificent,  and  the  shops  are  good. 
The   hills   around    are    clothed   with 
verdure  and  timber,  and  dotted  with 
whitewashed  Basque  cottages,   while 
the  banks  of  the  Urumea  are  charming 
and  most   refreshing  after  the    aria 
plains  of  Castile.    The  alameda  prome- 
nade is  pleasant  in  the  evening,  when 
the  military  band  plays.     There  is  a 
small  theatre,  and  a  bull-ring  whose 
funciones,  though  despised  by  aficion- 
ados, are  much  resorted  to  by  French 
and  English  residents  at  Biarritz  and 
Pau.      The   principal    sights    in   the 
town  are  the  alameda  and  playa  with 
the  fine  Casino  and  Parque  de  Alder- 
dieder ;  the  new  Gothic  church  of  the 
Buen  Pastor,  at  the  head  of  the  Calle 
Loyola  ;  the  bathing  establishments  ; 
the  modest  but  finely  situated  royal 
palace  on  the  road  to  Monte  Igueldo, 
built  1889-92  on  the  site  of  the  Con- 
vento  del  Antiguo,  destroyed  by  the 
Carlists. 

There  is  nothing  very  Spanish  about 
the  narrow  streets  of  the  old  town,  and 
the  buildings  are  indifferent.  The 
church  of  Sta.  Maria  has  a  churriguer- 
esque  facade  and  heavy  tawdry  altars. 
San  Vicente  is  better,  of  late  Gothic, 
with  an  interesting  western  porch,  and 
fine  organ.  Close  by  the  former  runs  the 
beautiful  Paseo  de  las  Curas,  by  which, 
if  a  permit  can  be  obtained,  the  ascent 
of  Monte  Orgullo,  20  min.,  is  made. 
The  view  from  the  summit  is  fine. 
At  the  back  of  the  rock  are  some 
graves  of  English  officers  who  fell  dur- 
ing the  siege  of  1813,  and  of  soldiers 
and  officers  of  the  Foreign  Legion, 
killed  in  the  first  Carlist  way,  1834-39, 


TS 


MADRID — ROUTES. 


247 


In  1813,  when  the  city  was  garrisoned 
by  3000  French  veterans  under  General 
Rey,  it  was  assaulted  by  the  British 
forces  under  the  Duke  of  Wellington, 
who  succeeded  in  taking  the  main 
works  and  town.  The  French,  never- 
theless, retired  into  the  upper  citadel 
and  intrenched  themselves  strongly, 
and  it  was  not  until  August  31  that 
they  surrendered,  the  success  of  the 
attack  being  chiefly  the  work  of  the  blue 
jackets.  Two -thirds  of  the  garrison 
perished,  and  the  English  had  5000 
killed  and  wounded.  The  town  was 
sacked  and  set  on  fire  by  the  English 
troops,  drunk  with  triumph  and  wine. 
This  unfortunate  issue  could  not  be  pre- 
vented, and  all  the  energy  and  example 
of  the  British  officers  were  of  no  avail. 

Excursions.— {a)  A  fine  walk  along  the  Paseo 
de  Ategorrita  to  the  crest  of  the  hill  overlooking 
both  San  Sebastian  and  Los  Pasajes;  from 
thence  to  the  Bidasoa  and  return  by  the  coast. 
(b)  The  ascent  of  Monte  IguSldo,  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  bay.  ^  Very  fine  views  from  the 
summit,  (c)  By  dil.,  rail  or  carriage  to  Zarauz 
and  Azpeitia  (see  p.  65),  the  latter  both  for  the 
sake  of  the  old  Basque  town  and  the  Loyola 
monastery  and  Casa. 

Frequent  steamers  from  San  Sebastian  to 
Bayonne.  Bilbao  and  Santander.  Dil.  daily  to 
Zarauz,  Bilbao,  Cestona,  Vergara,  Azpeitia,  etc 

The  railway  now  ascends  very  gra- 
dually, winding  its  way  through  the 
valley  of  the  Urumea,  a  Swiss-like  re- 
gion ;  then  follows  the  course  of  the 
Aria,  and  reaches 

Tolosa. — On  the  Aria  and  Arages. 
Pop.  9000.  In  a  valley  formed  by  the 
Ernio  and  Loazu  hills.  A  small,  in- 
differently-built Basque  town.  The 
Church  of  Sta.  Maria  contains  good 
specimens  of  the  marbles  found  in 
the  vicinity,  some  cloth  and  paper 
manufactures.  A  pretty  Paseo  de  Igar- 
rondo. 

Alsasua. — About  35  miles  from  To- 
losa ;  is  the  junction  for  Pamplona  and 
Zaragoza. 

Vitoria. — Capital  of  Prov.  of  Alava. 
Hotel:   De    Pallares.       Pop.    25,700. 


The  ancient  Beturia,  a  height  in  Basque. 
The  town  is  divided  into  the  old  Suso, 
and  the  new  portion.  It  is  a  pleasant, 
gay,  and  thriving  provincial  town, 
with  a  healthy  climate  and  some  charm- 
ing promenades,  especially  the  Florida, 
at  the  foot  of  which  the  station  is 
placed.  The  Prado  is  another  paseo, 
and  during  the  winter  the  arcades  of 
La  Plaza  Nueva.  The  Colegiata  dates 
1150,  but  has  been  altered.  The  Go- 
thic arches  are  striking.  The  Chapel 
de  Santiago  contains  some  interesting 
tombs.  In  the  sacristy  may  be  noticed 
a  fine  Piedad,  ascribed  to  Murillo.  In 
the  Church  of  San  Miguel,  observe  the 
high  altar,  which  is  the  work  of  Juan 
Velasquez  (not  the  great  man)  and 
Greg.  Hernandez,  one  of  the  best  Span- 
ish sculptors. 

The  Battle  of  Vitoria,,  a  celebrated 
English  victory,  took  place  in  the  vi- 
cinity, on  the  opposite  side  of  the  town, 
June  1813,  between  the  British  forces 
under  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  and  the 
French  army  commanded  by  Joseph 
Bonaparte  and  Jourdan,  which  ended 
in  the  total  rout  of  the  latter,  who  fled 
in  disorder — Joseph  (Pape  Botella,  as 
the  Spaniards  nicknamed  the  bottle- 
loving  king)  riding  a  mule,  and  leaving 
his  magnificent  collection  of  pictures 
to  the  victorious  duke.  The  plunder 
amounted  to  5, 000, 000  dols.  The  battle 
of  Vitoria  led  to  the  expulsion  of  the 
French  from  Spain. 

Miranda  de  Ebro  is  the  first  Castil- 
ian  town  we  meet.  Excellent  buffet  Th« 
Fonda  de  Guinea,  close  by  the  station, 
is  good.  The  train  soon  alter  crosses 
the  Zadorra  and  Ebro,  follows  the 
course  of  the  Oroncillo,  and  enters  the 
grand,  stern,  wild,  Salvator-Rosa  scenery 
of  the  gorges  of  Pancorbo.  The  ruins 
on  the  heights  are  those  of  a  fort  called 
de  Sta.  Engracia,  which  was  taken  and 
destroyed  in  1823  by  a  French  division 
under  Prince  de  Hohenlohe  ;  and  also 


248 


MADRID — ROUTES. 


of  a  castle  to  which,  according  to  tra- 
dition, Roderik,  the  last  of  the  Goths, 
carried  the  fair  La  Cava,  for  whose  sake 
he  lost  his  sceptre  and  his  life.  On 
leaving  these  rocky  chasms  and  bound- 
ing torrents,  a  tunnel  is  entered  and 
Burgos  reached.     (See  Burgos.) 

Now  several  rivers  are  rapidly  crossed 
— the  Carrion,  Pisuerga,  Duero,  Es- 
queva,  etc.,  all  entering  the  valleys  of 
Arlanzon  and  Valladolid. 

Venta  de  Bafios. — Here  a  line 
branches  to  Santander,  by  Palencia, 
Alar,  and  Reinosa. 

Valladolid  (which  see).  An  im- 
portant station  for  the  N.  line,  and 
where  all  its  matenel  is  kept  and  made 
and  repaired.  On  leaving  it  the  Duero 
is  crossed,  and  then  the  Adaja  follows 
a  S.W.  direction,  and  crosses  the  Za- 
pardielat 

Medina  del  Campo. — Inns  poor, 
but  good  buffet  and  sleeping  accommo- 
dation at  the  station.  Change  here  for 
Salamanca,  Zamora,  and  Segovia. 

On  leaving  Medina  the  Duero  is 
crossed  again,  and  at  Arevalo  the 
Adaja,  on  a  fine  stone  viaduct  of  four 
arches.  Arevalo  is  a  miserable  village, 
2200  souls  ;  the  palace,  whose  ruins 
we  see,  has  nevertheless  been  the  resi- 
dence of  Queen  Isabella,  Charles  V., 
Philip  II.,  etc. 

Avila  (which  see).  Amid  rich  val- 
leys, marble-pregnant  hills,  and  oak 
and  pine  forests. 

The  train  now  ascends  pretty  steep 
inclines,  seldom  exceeding  in  speed  15 
miles  an  hour.  This  portion  is  among 
the  finest  and  costliest  works  of  the 
company,  owing  to  the  broken-up  con- 
figuration of  the  country.  Thus,  the 
tunnel  of  Navalgrande  is  2983  £  feet 
long,  and  2520  ft.  above  the  sea.  The 
soil  has  been  brought  and  accumulated 
to  146  ft.  At  Las  Navas  del  Marques 
are  crossed  very  extensive  pine-forests, 
the  property  of  the  Duke  de  Medina- 


celi,  and  10  m.  long.  The  famous  Es 
corial  is  left  a  little  to  the  left  (See 
EscoriaZ.)  Another  tunnel  passed,  812 
ft.  long,  the  Manzanares  crossed,  por- 
tions of  the  royal  pleasure-grounds  of 
El  Pardo  and  Montana  del  Principe 
Pio  traversed,  and  in  the  distance, 
nearing  fast,  Madrid  appears  before  us, 
the  royal  palace  crowning  the  height  in 
front.  On  leaving  the  train  we  ascend 
to  the  town  by  the  steep  hill  and  gate 
de  San  Vicente.  Cabs  and  omnibuses 
in  attendance.     (See  Madrid.) 

B.  Zaragoza  and  Guadalajara.  — By 
Bayonne  to  Alsasua,  a  station  on  Madrid 
and  Burgos  Railway.  Time  5  hrs.  30  m. 
Change  carriages  ;  take  up  the  Pam- 
plona railway  from  Alsasua  to  Zaragoza 
by  Pamplona,  by  rail  direct;  time,  2  hrs 
from  Alsasua  to  Pamplona,  and  from 
latter  to  Zaragoza,  time  6  hrs.  30  m.; 
Zaragoza  to  Madrid,  time  10  hrs.  30  m. 
Total— Bayonne  to  Madrid— time  24  hrs. 
As  seen  above,  this  is  not  the  most  di- 
rect route  of  the  two.  (For  description 
of  Zaragoza,  see  that  name.) 

This  section  of  the  Norte  railway  is 
well  managed,  but  the  buffets  are  in- 
ferior to  those  of  the  Burgos  line.  It 
passes,  however,  by  the  interesting 
cities  of  Pamplona,  Tudela,  Calatayud, 
Sigiienza  and  Guadalajara,  from  all  of 
which  points  fine  excursions  can  be  made. 

Description  of  Route. — The  railway 
crosses  several  very  pretty  valleys 
watered  by  the  Borunda  and  other  minor 
streams,  and  soon  after  Zuaste  we  reach 

Pamplona. — Capital  of  province  of 
Navarre.     Pop.  about  29,000. 

Inns. — Fonda  de  la  Perla,  Plaza  de  la 
Constitucion,  good ;  Fonda  Universal, 
Spanish,  inferior.  Cafis,  Suizo,  Marina, 
Irufia,  in  the  Plaza,  good.  Bull-ring, 
Bull -fights  in  July  and  August,  the 
ring  holds  8000  persons.  Baths,  Paseo 
de  la  Taconera.  Post  and  Telegraph 
Offices,  both  in  the  PJazaT 


MADRID — ROUTES  (PAMPLONA). 


249 


The  city  stands  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Arga,  on  a  height  commanding  the 
fertile  plains  around.  It  is  fortified, 
and  was  always  considered  the  frontier 
key  of  Spain  on  that  side  of  the  king- 
dom. The  citadel  in  the  S.  W.  part  of 
the  town,  and  other  works  of  defence, 
are  constructed  on  the  model  of  Ant- 
werp, and  after  Vauban's  principles  ;  it 
is  strong,  and  can  hold  a  garrison  of 
3000  men. 

The  name  of  Pamplona  is  derived 
from  Pompeiopolis,  or  Pompey's  city, 
which  he  is  said  to  have  founded  in 
commemoration  of  his  victories  over 
Sertorius.  Sancho  Abarca  fixed  his 
court  here,  and  it  became  the  capital  of 
the  kingdom  of  Navarre.  The  kings  of 
France  long  ruled  over  it  in  consequence 
of  the  marriage  of  Phillipe  le  Bel  with 
Dona  Juana.  His  granddaughter  was 
married  here  to  the  Count  de  Cham- 
pagne, and  succeeded  to  the  crown  ; 
here  also  their  coronations  took  place, 
and  the  event  was  celebrated  with  tour- 
naments, bull-fights,  and  dances.  To 
complete  the .  festivities,  and  offer  a 
novel  spectacle  pleasant  to  the  princes, 
no  less  than  10,000  Jews,  it  is  said, 
were  assembled  and  burnt  alive  in  the 
square ;  the  human  bonfire  (adds  ex- 
ultingly  a  chronicler  of  the  time)  could 
be  seen  for  miles  and  miles  distant. 
During  a  siege  of  the  town  by  the 
French  under  Andre*  de  Foix  (1521), 
Ignacio  de  Loyola,  the  founder  of  the 
Jesuits,  was  wounded,  and  it  was  dur- 
ing his  convalescence  that  he  planned 
the  rules  which  were  to  govern  his  semi- 
military  order.  A  small  chapel,  chur- 
rigueresque  and  indifferent,  raised  long 
afterwards  to  his  memory,  is  situated 
near  the  promenade,  and  behind  the 
Palaciode  la  Diputacion.  Bonaparte, 
February  1808,  sent  d'Armagnac  to 
Pamplona,  under  the  guise  of  an  alli- 
ance with  Charles  IV.,  when  the  Spa- 
nish authorities  were  weak  enough  to 


serve  out  rations  to  their  friends  in  the 
citadel.  Thereupon,  soon  after  their 
arrival,  some  French  grenadiers,  under 
the  pretence  of  playing  at  snowballs, 
secured  the  drawbridge,  and  took  pos- 
session of  the  town  ;  but  after  the  battle 
of  Vitoria,  the  Duke  of  Wellington 
blockaded  the  town,  and,  notwith- 
standing Soult's  desperate  efforts  to  re- 
lieve it,  entered  it  after  a  short  resist- 
ance (1813). 

Sights.  —  C$e    «ratf|e&ral,   built     by 
Charles  the  Noble,  1397,  on  the  ruins 
of  a  former,  which  dated  from  1100, 
and  of  which  several  portions  remain  in 
two  niches  in  the  cloisters.     Observe, 
amongst  others,  the  very  richly  orna- 
mented capitals,  which  decorated  the 
principal  portal.     The  edifice  is  not 
large,  but  offers  here  and  there  some 
good  specimens  of  light  Gothic.     The 
Grseco-  Roman  principal  entrance  was 
put  up  by  Ventura  Rodriguez,  1783, 
and,  though  out  of  keeping  with  the 
rest,  is  of  very  good  style,  and  effective, 
The  interior  is  simple,  and  divided  into 
three  naves.     The  choir -stalls  are  by 
Miguel  de  Ancheta,  1530.    They  form 
two  tiers,  and  number  fifty-six  richly- 
carved  sillas  above,  and  forty-four  be- 
low, all  very  elaborately  carved,  with 
semi-relievos  representing  saints,  patri- 
archs,  and    prophets.     The  reja  is  a 
fine  example  of  cinque-cento.     On  en- 
tering the  choir,  and  in  the  centre,  are 
the  tombs  of  the  founder  and  his  queen; 
on  the  cushion  are  the  words  *  bonne 
foy,  bonne  foy.'    At  the  king's  feet  is 
a  lion,  and  at  the  queen's  two  dogs. 
The  door  which  leads  into  the  cloister 
is  of  the  end  of  the  14th  century.     Ob- 
serve the  well-sculptured  scenes  from 
the  life  of  the  Virgin.     Sala  Preciosa, 
where  the  Cortes  of  Navarre  formerly 
met.     There  is  a  fine  tomb,  with  an 
equestrian   statue     of    Conde    Gages. 
Chapel  de  Sta.  Cruz,  a  fine  reja  made 
with  the  chains  taken  at  the  battle  q» 


250 


MADRID — ROUTES. 


Las  Navas  de  Tolosa.  The  cloisters  are 
light  and  elegant.  Relics  in  Sacristy, 
at  N.E.  corner.  This  is  really  the  only 
sight,  and  the  mansion-house,  citadel, 
and  other  churches  are  devoid  of  interest. 
A  theatre,  casino,  and  bull-ring.  La 
Tacon&ra  is  the  fashionable  promenade, 
and  the  view  from  it  of  the' valley  and 
mountains  is  extensive  and  fine.  This 
1  muy  noble  y  muy  leal '  city  has  been 
a  focus  of  civil  war,  holding  out 
staunchly  against  Don  Carlos.  The 
place  should  be  visited  on  the  Feast  of 
St.  Fermin,  Sept.  25. 

Excursions.  —To  Logro&o,  48  m. :  daily  dil. 
by  Puente  de  la  Reina  (Convent  of  San  Juan 
del  Crucifijo)  and  Estella.  (Residence  of  Don 
Carlos  in  1835  ;  old  Alcazar ;  fine  Romanesque 
Church  of  San  Pedro :  a  m.  off  Benedictine 
Monastery  of  Ihrache,  with  well  restored  Early 
Pointed  church.) 

To  Soria.  —  Rail  to  Alfaro,  and  then  dil. 
Look  here  for  several  12th  and  13th  century 
buildings.  See  also  Santo  Domingo,  San 
Pedro,  and  the  Convent  of  San  Juan.  Visit 
(5  m.)  the  ruins  of  the  heroically  famous 
Numantia. 

To  Tudela  (indifferent  Fonda  de  la  Union). 
—  Rail  in  4}  hrs.  Magnificent  Transition 
cathedral,  Church  of  Santa  Maria  (note  especi- 
ally sculpturing  and  cloistersX  Church  of  La 
Magdalena. 

To  Tarazona  and  Veruela.— Rail  from  Tudela 

in  1  hr.  At  former,  fine  13th  century  cathedral, 
with  very  remarkable  16th  century  brick 
cloisters.  Churches  of  La  Magdalena  and  San 
Miguel.  At  Veruela  a  Cistercian  abbey,  with 
Romanesque  and  Early  Pointed  church  and 
cloister.  (N.B, — Ecclesiologists  should  on  no 
account  omit  these  excursions.) 

Oalatayud.— (Kalat-Ayub,  Castle  of 
Ayub.)  Most  important  city  of  Ara- 
gon  after  Zaragoza.  Pop.  11,000. 
Fonda  de  la  Campana,  fair.  Birth- 
place of  Martial.  Close  by  stood  once 
the  city  of  Bilbilis. 

Municepes,  Augusta  mihi  quos  Bilbilis  acri 
Monte  creat,  rapidis  quern  Salo  cingit  aquis  ; 

Martial. 
Spared  for  some  time  by  the  Moor, 
it  was  finally  destroyed  by  him  ;  and  a 
new  city  built  near  it  by  Ayub,  whence 
its  present  name.  It  was  captured, 
1120,  by  Alfonso  el  Batallador,  and  be- 
wune  an  important  strategical  position, 


the  scene  of  several  sieges.  It  ia 
gloomy,  dull,  but  preserves  still  much 
of  the  stern,  massive,  Aragonese  charac- 
ter. The  churches,  though  numerous, 
are  devoid  of  interest ;  and,  though 
dating  from  early  periods,  such  as  the 
Colegiata  de  Sta.  Maria  la  Mayor  (1249), 
have  been  altered  and  disfigured.  The 
Moreria,  or  former  Moors*  quarter,  is  in 
the  upper  portion,  the  oldest  of  the 
town,  and  mostly  composed  of  excava- 
tions in  the  rock,  where  dwell  the 
poorer  classes.  These  mazmorras  date 
from  the  time  of  the  Moors,  and  are 
seen  in  many  parts  of  Spain,  and  at 
Granada  especially.  They  deserve  the 
artist's  visit,  as  misery  is  most  pictur- 
esquely clad  in  Spain,  and  the  groups, 
attitudes,  etc,  of  the  inmates  full  of 
character. 

The  rail,  on  leaving  Calatayud,  fol- 
lows the  course  of  the  Jalon,  and  crosses 
its  pleasant  valley.  A  tunnel,  2923  ft. 
long,  is  traversed,  and  we  enter  the  val- 
ley of  the  Henares ;  the  scenery  becomes 
wild  and  picturesque,  and  cultivation  is 
rare ;  we  cross  the  river  Henares,  by 
following  which  we  arrive  at 

Siguenza.  —  Prov.    of   Guadalajara. 
4700  inhab,  ;  bishop's  see,  suffragan  of 
Toledo.    Seldom  visited.    Inn:  Fonda 
at  the  station ;  fair.      It  is  built  on 
the  slopes  of  a  lofty  knoll,  bathed  on 
the   £.   side  by  the   Henares.      The 
massive  walls  and  former  gatos  still 
exist,  sombre,  and  flanked  by  turrets. 
On  the  highest  point  of  the  city  stands 
the  imposing  castle,  the  residence  now 
of  the  bishop.    The  streets  are  narrow, 
winding,  steep,  and  ill  paved ;  but  there 
breathes  still  about  the  old  city  an  air 
of  grandeur,  antiquity,  and  strength, 
which  throws  over  it  a  melancholy  not 
destitute  of  charm.     Observe  the  very 
early  houses  around  San  Vicente,  some 
Byzantine  even  ;   and  in  Plaza  de  la 
Catedral,  several  others  of  the  plater- 
esque  and  Gothic  styles. 


MADRID — ROUTES*  (SIGUENZA). 


251 


Sights.  —  The  great  sight  is  the 
Cathedral.  This  castellated  church 
stands  between  two  plazas,  on  the  slopes 
of  a  hill.  The  facade  is  flanked  by  two 
lofty  massive  towers,  with  buttresses 
terminated  by  balls ;  that  of  the  left 
was  erected  by  Bishop  Don  Fadrique, 
of  Portugal  (1533).  Two  substantial 
and  lofty  salient  buttresses  enclose  the 
central  portal,  and  on  each  side,  between 
them  and  the  towers,  is  a  portal,  with 
a  window  over  it,  circular,  and  with 
rich  Byzantine  details.  The  central 
consists  of  a  glorious  rose-window,  with 
small  pillars  radiating  from  the  central 
circle.  The  portals  are  all  circular; 
the  central  is  deeply  recessed ;  they  are 
decorated  with  sixteen  columns,  the 
sculpture  of  which  has  been  destroyed, 
vestiges  remaining  only  in  that  to  the 
left  The  medallion  over  the  central 
portal  represents  the  Virgin  giving  the 
casulla  (chasuble)  to  San  Ildefonso ; 
it  is  modern  and  indifferent.  The 
balustraded  parapet  crowning  the  facade, 
and  connecting  the  towers,  is  in  good 
style,  and  of  18  th  century.  The  railing 
which  encloses  the  edifice  all  round  is 
also  modern.  The  date  of  the  erection 
is  uncertain,  probably  from  end  of  12th 
to  beginning  of  13th  century. 

The  interior  is  plain  and  striking. 
The  proportions  are,  98  ft.  high  for  the 
central  nave,  the  lateral  ones  having 
only  63  ;  the  length,  313  ft;  the  width 
112  ft  It  is  divided  into  three  noble 
naves,  formed  by  ten  massive  piers,  50 
ft.  circumference.  From  these  spring 
twenty  small,  slender,  reed-like  shafts, 
grouped  in  rows  of  three  together,  and 
with  capitals  consisting  of  wide  leaves 
of  the  transition  between  Byzantine  to 
Gothic.  The  windows,  destitute  of 
painted  glass,  are  Byzantine  in  the 
lateral  naves,  and  Gothic  in  the  central 
one.  The  High  Chapel  begins  at  the 
transept.  Its  ingress  is  closed  by  an 
elegaqt  reja.     At  each  side  is  an  ala- 


baster pulpit,  with  figures.  That  on 
the  side  of  the  epistle  is  Gothic ;  the  one 
on  the  side  of  the  gospel,  plateresque. 
This  chapel  was  founded  by  Bishop 
Mendoza,  and  dates,  therefore,  during 
the  decline  of  Gothic.  Several  tombs 
on  the  sides.  Among  them,  observe 
one  with  the  recumbent  effigy  of  Bishop 
Bernard,  a  Frenchman,  and  Primate  of 
Toledo.  There  is  also  a  fine  one  of  Car= 
dinal  Alfonso  Carrillo  (1420).  The  re- 
tablo  was  put  up  1613,  by  Bishop  Mateo 
de  Burgos.  It  is  of  the  three  orders,  and 
with  bassi-relievi  representing  scenes 
from  the  life  of  Christ.  The  statues 
of  Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity,  are  the 
most  remarkable  feature.  The  taber- 
nacle is  churrigueresque.  Tlie  trascoro 
must  be  closely  examined,  as  it  is  not 
only  richly  ornamented  with  marbles, 
but  is  a  good  specimen  of  the  period 
when  it  was  raised  (1685).  The  image 
of  Sta.  Maria  la  Mayor  is  much  vene- 
rated, but  not  by  sculptors.  The  altar 
is  decorated  with  Solomonic  pillars  of 
black  marble,  with  bronze  bases,  and 
sculptured,  all  in  bad  taste,  and  of  end 
of  17th  century. 

Chapel  of  Sta.  Catalina. — It  was 
dedicated  to  St  Thomas  of  Canterbury, 
a  few  years  after  his  martyrdom,  by 
Bishop  Jocelyn,  who  came  to  Spain 
with  Queen  Leonor,  when  a  great  many 
churches  and  chapels  were  raised  to 
that  saint  throughout  Castile.  The 
portal  is  plateresque,  by  Vazquez  de 
Sosa,  and  put  up  by  a  bishop  of  Cana- 
rias  and  Canario.  It  is  a  most  exquisite 
work.  Notice  besides  the  excellent  style 
of  the  tombs  of  this  worthy  prelate, 
Fernando  de  Arce,  who  died  1522,  and 
that  of  his  brother.  The  altar  is  chur- 
rigueresque, but  the  former  one,  with  a 
fine  Florentine  picture  of  the  cruci- 
fixion, may  be  seen  in  the  sacristia. 
Visit  also  the  Chapel  de  San  Francisco 
Xavier,  its  tombs  and  crucifix  ;  the 
tomb    and    colossal  effigy  of   Bishop 


252 


MADRID — ROUTES. 


Lujan  (ob.  1465),  near  the  baptismal 
font ;  the  excellent  portals  of  Chapels 
de  San  Marcos  and  La  Annunciation, 
which  contain  a  Gothic  retablo  and 
plateresqne  tomb ;  the  altar  of  Sta. 
Librada,  who  was  one  of  nine  saints, 
sisters,  all  born  at  the  same  time. 
These  darlings,  a  blessing  for  any 
father,  had  nine  amas  (nurses),  and  de- 
served, say  the  pious  historians,  palms 
of  nine  martyrdoms.  Pope  Innocent 
IV.  (1243,  1251),  in  two  different  bnlls 
of  those  dates,  mentions  the  fact,  and 
enhances  the  miracles  performed  by  this 
the  eldest  of  that  holy  family,  whose 
body  was  brought  here  from  Asturias. 
The  indifferent  retablo  dates  1498-1511. 
The  sacristia,  also  called  the  sagrario,  is 
the  work  of  Alfonso  de  Covarrubias. 
Observe  the  ceiling  decorated  with  busts 
of  old  men,  fair  virgins,  and  grotesque 
buffoons.  The  Chapel  de  las  Reliquias 
has  an  ochavada  (octagonal)  cupola  full 
of  sculpturing.  The  church  plate, 
which  the  French  did  not  carry  away, 
is  fine  and  of  value,  but  of  little  artistic 
merit.  The  present  cloisters,  elegant 
and  plain,  were  built  by  Cardinal  Car- 
vagal,  1507,  on  the  site  of  the  former 
ones,  of  which  some  curious  slabs,  etc., 
have  been  preserved ;  some  fine  plater- 
esqne portals.  In  the  Sola  Capitular 
de  Invierno  ladies  will  do  well  to  in- 
quire for  some  old  and  admirably-worked 
tapestry.  A  visit  may  also  be  made  to 
the  Jeronimite  Colegio,  founded  1488, 
where  observe  the  classical  cloisters  and 
tomb  of  Bishop  Risova  (ob.  1657). 
Two  miles  from  the  town  is  the  village 
of  Villavieja,  on  the  site  of  Segoncia  or 
Saguncia,  founded  by  the  fugitives  from 
Saguntum. 

Guadalajara.— Capital  of  province 
of  same  name.  Hotel:  Fonda  del  Norte ; 
poor.  Pop.  10,000.  Said  to  be  the 
Arriaca  of  Antoninus,  and  the  Caraca 
of  Ptolemy  and  Plutarch  (?)    It  is,  at  all 


events,  a  very  ancient  city,  the  Moors 
Wada-1-ha-Jarah,  the  river  of  stones — 
was  captured  from  them  by  the  cele- 
brated companion  of  the  Cid,  Alvar 
Fafiez  de  Minaya,  and  became  the  ap- 
panage of  the  Mendozas,  ancestors  of 
the  Duke  de  Osuna,  to  whom  most  of 
the  town  still  belongs.  These  feudal 
lords  possessed,  in  the  15th  and  16th 
centuries,  800  villages  and  90,000  vas- 
sals, and  their  pages  were  all  titled 
gentlemen  of  Castile.  Here  died  the 
celebrated  Gran  Cardenal  de  Espana 
(11th  January  1495),  in  the  presence  of 
the  Catholic  kings.  Here,  1525,  Francis 
I.  resided  some  time  on  his  way  to  his 
gaol  at  Madrid.  He  was  much  feted 
by  the  old  gouty  Duke  del  Infantado, 
and  the  relacion  of  the  festivities  is 
curious.  The  first  day,  bull-fights  and 
jousts  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  ducal 
court ;  the  second,  a  beast-fight  between 
tigers,  lions,  etc.;  the  third  a  tourna- 
ment. Some  time  afterwards,  the 
French  monarch  challenged  his  host 
(1528),  who  asked  advice  and  leave  of 
Charles  V.  The  king  answered  him  by 
letter  not  to  accept  the  proposal. 

Philip  II.  despotically  disposed  of 
this  city  in  favour  of  his  aunt,  the  widow 
queen  of  France,  and  obliged  the  duke 
to  abandon  his  palace.  Here  he  was 
married  to  Isabella  de  Valois  (1560). 
In  1714,  Philip  V.  was  also  married  here 
to  Isabella  Farnese  ;  Juan  of  Austria 
resided  here  ;  and  the  widow  of  Charles 
II.,  Maria  de  Neubourg,  breathed  her 
last  (1740).  The  Mendozas  became  ex- 
tinct in  the  17th  century,  and  their  col- 
lateral branch,  the  dukes  of  Infantados, 
removed  their  residence  to  Madrid. 

Palace. — A  visit  should  be  paid  to 
their  palace,  which  was  begun  by  the 
second  duke,  and  of  the  15th  century. 
It  is  in  the  Gotho-plateresque  transi- 
tion style,  with  many  vestiges  of  the 
Moorish  taste.  Observe  the  facade 
and  armorials — the  row  of  Moorish 


MADRID — ROUTES  (CUENCA). 


253 


windows,  agimeces,  greatly  disfigured 
by  modern  common-place  balconies. 
The  square  patio  with  two  tiers  of  gal- 
leries, with  shields  of  the  Mendozas  and 
Lunas,  flanked  by  griffins  and  large 
Alhambraic  heraldic  lions.  It  is  very 
elegant  and  quaint.  Read  the  inscrip- 
tion over  the  lower  arches,  which,  after 
detailing  with  evident  self-indulgence 
all  the  titles  of  the  founder,  finishes  by 
Solomon's  'Todoes  vanidad  !'  an  incon- 
gruous humility  on  such  an  ostentatious 
mansion.  The  architects  were  Juan 
and  his  brother  Enrique  Guas,  the  same 
who  designed  the  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes 
at  Toledo.  What  a  difference  between 
this  bastardised  plateresque  and  the 
pure  undefiled  style  of  the  church ! 
Visit  the  long  Guarda  Muebles ;  observe 
here  the  huge  chimney  and  artesonado 
Sala  de  Linages  is  the  finest  room  here. 
Notice  the  stalactite  gilt  roof,  escut- 
cheons, and  busts.  The  third  duke,  a 
very  pious  man,  turned  it  into  a  chapel, 
and  his  singers  and  chaplains  are  men- 
tioned in  Navagiero.  On  Corpus  Day 
he  solemnised  the  festivity  by  proces- 
sions, dances,  masquerades,  bull-fights, 
'en  honra  del  Santfsimo  Sacramento,' 
as  Alvar  Muftez  de  Castro  has  it  in  his 
'  Hist,  de  Guadalajara.'  Visit  also  San 
Francisco,  rebuilt  1393,  and  the  Panteon 
of  the  Mendozas,  begun  1696,  finished 
1720  ;  the  tombs,  once  among  the  finest 
in  the  world,  were  barbarously  mutilated 
by  the  French.  The  former  solar  of 
the  Mendozas,  now  a  carrol,  is  in  Pla- 
zuela  de  Sta.  Maria.  Here  the  great 
cardinal  died.  There  are  few  other 
sights.  The  town  hall,  of  1585,  was 
altered  in  1716.  The  Colegio  de  In- 
genieros  is  indifferent. 

Shortly  after  quitting  this  town  we 
cross  the  Jarama  on  a  fine  bridge,  then 
the  Abronigal  torrent  (arroyo),  and 
reach  Madrid,  which  we  enter  by  the 
Prado  and  Calle  de  Alcala  of  San 
Geroniino  or  Atocha. 


Another  route  by  road.— There  is  an  old 

and  practically  disused  diligence  route  from 
Alfaro  to  Siguenza,  passing  through  Soria. 
We  have  followed  it  more  than  once,  however, 
and  can  testify  that  there  is  nothing  either  in 
scenery  or  towns  to  repay  for  the  jolting  and 
general  discomfort.  The  only  advantage  is 
that  one  may  thus  visit  Soria  en  routet  and 
save  the  excursion  from  Pamplona. 

N.B. — The  best  plan  for  visiting  carefully 
the  cities  referred  to  above  is  as  follows: — 
Give  a  few  hours  only  to  Guadalajara  in  pass- 
J  ing,  and  so  avoid  the  poor  fonda.  Sleep  at 
I  Calatayud,  and  from  thence  go  on  to  Tudela, 
where  stay  at  least  two  days.  (In  that  case 
inquire  for  a  casa  de  huespedes  close  by  the 
Fonda  de  la  Union,  and  more  comfortable. 
From  Tudela  visit  Tarazona  (rail),  and  Veruela 
(driving  or  riding).  Then  go  on  to  Pamplona, 
stopping  on  the  way  to  look  at  Olite  and  Ta- 
falla. 

From  Valencia*  vid  Cuenca  by 
road  and  rail.  Rail  as  far  as  Utiel ; 
two  trains  daily.  Also  from  Cuenca 
to  Madrid,  vid  Aranjucz.  The  princi- 
pal places  of  interest  passed  on  the  way 
are: — Requena  (14,000  inhab.),  Min- 
glanilla,  (2500  inhab. ;  mine  of  very 
pure  rock-salt,  worked  since  the  time 
of  the  Romans,  but  now  stopped), 
Cuenca  and  Tarancon. 

Cuenca. — Pop.  8000  ;  capital  of  pro- 
vince of  same  name  (N.  Castile). 

Hotels. — De  Madrid,  fair,  74  pes.  ; 
De  Comercio.  Most  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  steep  slopes  of  a  large 
knoll,  or  loma,  between  the  deep  beds  of 
the  Jucar  and  the  Huescar,  which  wash 
its  base.  The  city,  seen  from  below, 
rises  with  its  clusters  of  houses  like  an 
amphitheatre.  The  name  Cuenca  is 
derived  from  a  shell  {concha),  say 
some  etymologists.  The  place  is  old- 
fashioned  to  the  last  degree,  and  no 
comfort  is  to  be  expected.  Yet  it  is 
well  worth  visiting  alike  for  its  his- 
torical interest  (for  the  great  names  to 
which  it  has  given  birth,  and  as  having 

*  Note.— Routes  from  Valencia  by  Rail,  see 
page  255. 


254 


MADRID—  ROUTES. 


been  a  head-quarters  of  the  Great  In- 
quisition and  of  Jewish  persecutions) 
and  for  the  beauty  of  its  natural  sur- 
roundings. Among  these  latter  must 
not  be  neglected  the  fantastic  groups 
of  stones,  well  styled  the  Ciudad  En- 
cantada,  and  the  picturesque  scenery 
on  the  Jucar  river,  rich  in  spoil  for 
hunter,  botanist  and  angler.  The 
best-known c  Cuenquences  Ilustres '  (see 
D.  Fermin  Caballero's  Biografias)  have 
been  the  great  Mendoza,  Gil  Albornoz, 
the  artists  Becerril,  Yanez,  and  Mora, 
and  the  poet  Figueroa.  Besides  the 
bishop's  palace,  the  bridge  of  San  Pablo, 
and  the  Casas  Solares  of  the  Conquis- 
tadores,  the  chief  sight  is  the 

Cathedral. — The  square  facade  looks 
well  from  a  distance.  The  edifice  rises 
on  a  platform,  and  is  ascended  by  an 
escalinata  or  grees  of  stone.  As  to  its 
style  it  is  Gothic,  save  the  crowning 
portion,  which  is  of  the  17th  century. 
The  church  was  built  in  the  13th  cen- 
tury, on  the  site  of  a  former  mosque, 
and  it  has  preserved  its  early  Gothic 
style  with  some  Byzantine  vestiges 
here  and  there.  The  interior  consists 
of  the  naves  ;  the  central  one,  called 
de  los  Reyes,  is  higher  than  the  lateral 
ones.  The  arches  are  of  a  very  pointed 
style,  the  pillars  massive,  but  the 
colouring  and  whitewash  mar  the  effect 
which  would  otherwise  be  produced  by 
the  general  plain  majestic  character  of 
the  whole.  The  dimensions  are  312 
feet  long  by  140  wide.  The  transept 
is  effective.  Observe  the  painted  win- 
dows. As  usual,  the  choir  blocks  up 
the  central  nave.  The  stalls  have  been 
sadly  modernised.  The  organs  and 
pulpits  indifferent.  The  reja  and  lec- 
tern are  fine  specimens  of  the  plater- 
esque,  and  masterpieces  of  Hernando 
de  Arenas  (1557).  The  present  retablo 
is  a  medley  of  fine  marbles,  though 
much  admired,  and  unworthy,  of  its 
designer,  Ventura  Rodriguez.     Among 


the  chapels,  observe  the  plateresque 
portal  of  that  of  Los  Apostoles.  The 
portal  into  the  cloisters  most  berru- 
guete-like.  The  chapel  de  los  Cabal- 
leros  is  of  various  periods.  The  plater- 
esque portal  towards  the  transept  is 
strangely  crowned  by  an  admirably  - 
wrought  stone  skeleton,  with  inscrip. 
tions  :  *  De  victus  militibus  mors  tri- 
umphat.'  'Disrupta  magna  vetustale 
restituta  sit  perpetuo.'  The  reja  fine. 
The  pictures  in  the  retablo  date  1525, 
and  were  painted  by  Hernando  Yanez, 
a  pupil,  it  is  said  of  Raphael.  The 
Virgin  and  Child  is  the  best  Among 
other  sepulchres  of  the  great  Albornoz 
family,  notice  that  of  the  great  cardinal, 
and  of  his  mother.  The  cloisters  are 
in  the  Herrera  style,  by  Juan  Andrea 
Rodi,  1577-83,  of  no  great  importance. 
The  portal  of  St.  Helena,  and  classical 
reja  of  that  of  San  Juan,  deserve  notice. 
Among  other  old  houses  in  this  city, 
tourists  must  not  fail  to  visit  those  in 
the  Calle  de  Correduria. 

At  Tarancon,  5000  inhabitants,  the 
Rianzares  is  crossed,  which  together 
with  the  name  of  the  village  were 
granted  as  titles  to  Munoz,  the  second 
husband  of  Queen  Christina.  A  little 
farther  on  the  railway  leaves  the  old 
direct  dil.  road  to  Madrid,  and  swerves 
round  to  Aranjuez.  Following  the 
road,  at  Villarejo,  in  the  parish  church, 
may  be  seen  some  good  paintings  by 
Orrente.  Then  come  olive  grounds 
and  waste  lands.  The  Tajana  is  spanned 
by  a  stone  bridge,  and  through  a  pretty 
valley  we  ascend  to  Arganda,  3000  in- 
habitants, celebrated  for  its  excellent 
red  wine.  Shortly  after  leaving  this, 
the  Jarama  is  crossed,  near  its  conflu- 
ence with  the  Manzanares,  and  on  a 
fine  suspension  bridge.  Vacia  Madrid, 
a  hamlet,  is  reached,  and  then  Vallecas, 
a  city  of  bakers,  and  we  enter  the  capital 
by  the  ronda,  on  the  left  of  the  Alicante 
railway  station. 


MADRID — ROUTES  (AIJUANSA). 


255 


Madjud  from  Marseilles  and  Bar- 
celona vid  Valencia. — The  route 
from  Marseilles  may  be  followed  either 
by  Ni3mes,  Montpellier,  or  Perpignan, 
whence  by  Barcelona  and  Zaragoza ; 
rail  throughout  (see  Barcelona,  etc.),  or 
by  sea  from  Marseilles  to  Valencia,  per 
steamers  of  the  Florio-Rubattino  Co., 
fortnightly  both  ways,  or  Frassinet  et 
Cie,  weekly  both  ways  ;  48  hours'  voy- 
age. For  fares  and  precise  times  of 
sailing  see  advts.  in  time-tables,  or 
apply  at  agents'  offices.  From  Va- 
lencia, by  rail,  in  15£  hrs.  ;  two  trains 
per  day,  joining  the  direct  line  from 
Alicante  to  Madrid  at  La  Enema.  The 
sea  passage  is  generally  rough — especi- 
ally in  the  Gulf  of  Lyons,  and  during 
the  equinox  or  the  winter — and  the 
hours  of  departure,  etc,  tare  uncertain. 
But  good  sailors  will  enjoy  the  trip, 
as  the  coasts  of  Spain,  on  nearing 
Valencia,  present  a  charming,  novel 
spectacle,  from  their  peculiarly  African 
character  and  vegetation. 

Marseilles. — Grand  Hotel  Noailles 
and  Grand  Hotel  du  Louvre,  both  in 
Rue  Noailles,  well  situated  and  good. 
Pop.  370,000.  The  chief  French 
Mediterranean  port;  a  handsome 
thriving  city,  improving  rapidly  in 
every  sense,  and  most  important  as  a 
commercial  centre.  The  principal 
streets  are  La  Cannebiere  and  the  fine 
Rue  de  la  Republique,  which  inter- 
sects the  old  parts  of  the  town. 
Principal  sights  : — The  magnificent 
new  Exchange,  a  fine  new  Cathedral, 
Zoological  Gardens,  Museum  at  Chateau 
Bordli  Square,  and  Fountain  de 
l'Obelisque,  a  large  theatre,  the  Prado, 
a  promenade  8  miles  long,  etc.  English 
Church,  100  Rue  Silvabelle ;  service 
at  10.30  a.m.  and  3  p.m. 

From  Marseilles  to  Paris,  by  rail,  30&  hrs. 
To  London  direct  by  Paris,  30}  hrs.  To  Nice 
by  rail,  6  hrs. 


On  arriving  at  Valencia,  see  this 
name  for  description,  fares,  etc. 

The  route  from  Valencia  to  Almansa 
passes  no  cities  of  any  importance  ;  but 
the  scenery  is  most  Oriental ;  the  vege- 
tation exotic.  About  Cattaroja  the 
fertility  of  the  soil  is  such  that  it 
yields,  in  irrigated  soils,  above  80  per  ct 
per  acre.  Near  Silla  is  the  large  lake 
of  La  Albufera  (see  Valencia).  Alge- 
rnesi — the  church  contains  several  fine 
Kibaltas.  Alcira. — As  the  Huerta  of 
Valencia  is  called  the  Garden  of  Spain, 
this  place  is  defined  the  Jardin  del  Reino 
de  Valencia.  Between  this  and  Jativa, 
and  more  especially  about  Carcagente 
(pop.  10,000),  the  eye  sweeps  over  a 
vale  of  plenty.  The  olive,  the  orange, 
the  mulberry ;  the  many  and  pictur- 
esque water-wheels,  called  norias ;  the 
low  white -washed  terraced  cortijos, 
shaded  by  a  couple  of  stately  palms ;  the 
Bedouin-looking  farmers,  whose  absence 
of  dress  confirms  Voltaire's  saying, 
'Rien  n'habille  comme  le  nu';  the 
square  brick  belfries  of  the  village 
churches,  whose  bright -coloured  azu- 
lejos  shine  in  the  glorious  sun — such 
are  the  principal  features  of  the  country 
we  traverse  until  we  reach  Jativa  (also 
called  San  Felipe),  pop.  14,500.  In- 
different fonda  in  the  Calle  de  Moncada. 
This  ancient  Roman  and  Moorish  city 
was  the  home  of  the  great  Borja,  or 
'  Borgia,'  family,  and  the  birthplace  of 
the  painter  Ribera.  Finely  situated, 
but  dirty.  The  torrent  of  La  Montesa 
is  crossed  on  leaving  it.  The  ruins  of 
the  castle  of  that  name  are  seen  in  the 
distance.  This  castle  was  once  the 
stronghold  of  the  knightly  order  of 
Montesa,  established  in  1318,  after  the 
suppression  of  the  order  of  Templars. 
We  enter  a  tunnel  near  Fuente  de  la 
Higuera,  some  1500  metres  long,  and 
arrive,  first  at  La  Encina,  the  junction 
for  Alicante  (good  buffet),  then  at 

Almansa.— (8900  inhab.,  2245  ft. 


V 


256 


MADRID. 


above  the  sea.)  A  Moorish  dilapi- 
dated castle  on  the  N.W.  heights.  Cele- 
brated for  the  battle  won  by  Philip  V.'s 
army,  under  Berwick,  againsj  the 
Archduke  of  Austria's  troops,  1707. 
The  route  from  Aknansa  to  Madrid  has 
been  described  under  Alicante,  which 
see. 


Madrid  from  Lisbon  vid  Badajox 
and  Merida.—  Time,  34  hrs.  ;  fares — 
(liable  to  variation)  in  Sp.  money,  1st 
ol.,  86  pes.  35c. ;  fid  cL,  64  pes.  65c. ;  in 
Port,  money,  1st  ol.,  15,540  reis ;  2d 
cl.,  11,630  reis.  The  time  at  Lisbon 
is  25  m.  behind  that  at  Madrid.  For 
description  of  route,  see  Lisbon. 


MADRID 


Climate. — The  characteristics  of  the 
climate  of  Madrid,  which  stands  2384 
feet  above  the  sea,  are  extreme  heat  in 
summer,  cold  winds  in  winter,  with 
some  exceptional  spring-like  weather, 
dryness  of  the  air,  and  sudden  changes. 
The  icy  northerly  wind  which  sweeps 
over  the  slopes  of  the  Guadarrama, 
pierces  the  very  lungs,  as  it  were,  with 
a  steel  blade.  In  winter  its  prevalence, 
which,  however,  happily  does  not  last 
long,  induces  pneumonia, or  inflammation 
of  the  lungs.  When  the  wind  blows  in 
summer,  its  antagonism  with  the  burn- 
ing breath  of  the  south-east  renders  the 
shade  dangerous.  The  north-eastern 
and  south-west  winds  may  be  said  to  be 
most  prevalent,  the  former  in  the  win- 
ter and  spring,  and  the  latter  in  the 
autumn  and  summer.  The  difference 
of  the  temperature  between  sun  and 
shade  is  20°,  hence  the  Spanish  pro- 
verbs :  'En  Enero  busca  la  sombra  el 
perro  :'  '  Hasta  el  cuarenta  de  Mayo  no 
te  quites  el  sayo.'  In  consequence  of 
these  sudden  changes,  that  icy  dryness 
and  rawness  of  the  air,  apoplectic  at- 
tacks -are  frequent,  and  the  nervous 
system  is  affected.  During  the  sum- 
mer, bronchitis,  pneumonia,  catarrhal 
bilious  fevers,  and  dysentery  prevail  ^ 
chronic  diseases  become  more  acute,  afid 
consumption  especially  so.  The  tem- 
perature varies  a  good  deal  according 
to  the  different  quarters  of  the  town, 
and  on  the  whole  we  should  advise  a 
southern  aspect    Rain  is  scarce.   There 


is  no  endemic  malady,  and  the  colique 
de  Madrid,  of  which  French  travellers 
write,  is  imaginary.  There  are  very 
few  days  in  the  winter  that  a  drive  in 
an  open  carriage  cannot  be  taken,  and 
the  bright,  sunny,  cloudless  sky  is  the 
rule,  not  the  exception.  The  climate 
has  therefore  been  much  calumniated, 
and  '  nueve  meses  de  invierno  y  tres  de 
infierno'  was  applied  to  Valladolid,  not 
Madrid.  Ordinary  precautions  when 
the  Guadarama  wind  prevails,  and  cur- 
tailing one's  usual  allowance  of  wine 
when  '  los  calores '  begin,  and  no  abuse 
of  iced  drinks  and  fruits  at  that  season, 
is  all  that  is  required. 

METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS 

made  at  the 

Observatory  of  Madrid. 


S     ". 

Temperature  of  air 

eJ5 

H 

1 

Months. 

O  ? 

0 

Maxi- 

Mini- 

Oscil- 

m 
ft 

mum 

mum 

lation. 

oW 

*fc 

Q 

December  . 

*        1 
59 

1. 
25 

34  . 

11a 

17 

January 
February  », 

6i 

84 

37 

252 

5 

59 

.33 

27 

106 

13 

March 
'  May  . 

.    7S 
*77 

> 

4i 
45 

76 
82 

3 
xo 

88 

36 

52 

»35 

8 

June  . 
July  . 

9i 

45 

56 

144 

6 

98 

53 

46 

34 

a 

August 

107 

55 

5« 

175 

j» 

September 

162 

45 

57 

104 

z 

October 

88 

36 

52 

49 

XX 

November . 

63 

3» 

31 

48 

8 

4 

4 


1 


4 

* 

1 

6 


1 

1 

8 

c 

1 

c 

I 

a 
v 
1 
c 

8 
1 


a 
i 
t 
a 
c 

£ 

I 

t 

t 
8 
t 

I 
1 
< 
( 

1 
1 

E 


MADRID — ITS  HISTORY. 


25? 


Madrid.— (Pop.  about  500,000.)— Is 
placed  militarily  under  the  jurisdiction 
of  a  captain-general ;  administratively, 
under  the  orders  of  a  gobernador  civil, 
which  answers  to  the  French  prefect; 
and  of  an  alcalde  corregidor  (lord 
mayor),  who  is  at  the  head  of  the  corpo- 
ration, el  ayuntamiento,  the  revenues 
of  which  are  considerably  curtailed  by 
the  absorption  by  government  of  the 
derechos  de  puertas,  which  really  apper- 
tain to  its  fund. 

Hiitory. — Of  the  early  history  of 
Madrid  we  know  little  or  nothing,  save 
that  when  Toledo  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Arabs  it  became  an  advanced 
post  to  that  city.  They  called  it 
Mahil/nb,  and  in  the  chronicle  of  Sam- 
piro  it  is  mentioned  as  MaserU.  It 
wns  strongly  fortified,  but  finally  taken 
and  razed,  939,  by  Don  Ramiro  II.  of 
Leon ;  waa  wrested  a  second  time  by 
the  Moore ;  peopled  chiefly  by  Moz- 
arabes,  and  recovered  by  Alfonso  Till., 
1083.  The  town  was  situated  to  the 
W.,  and  crowned  the  heights  over, 
hanging  the  Manzanares.  The  walla 
extended  from  the  strong  Puerta  de  la 
Pega,  by  the  Vistillus,   to  Puerta  de 


Horoe,  that  looted  towards  Toledo,  a 
quarter  which  was  subsequently  allotted 
to  the  Moors  and  Jews.  They  then 
followed  by  the  street  still  called  Caba 
Baja  (a  deep  or  low  ditch),  at  the 
extremity  of  which  was  Puerta  Cerrad  a, 
with  a  dragon  or  serpent  sculptured 
upon  it,  continuing  by  the  Casa  Juan 
Miguel,  Puerta  de  Guadalajara,  which 
was  the  finest,  and  placed  in  the  centre 
of  the  present  platerias.  On  the  hill 
now  called  Cuesta  and  Plazuela  de  St. 
Domingo  stood  several  watch-towers, 
and  another  gate  called  Bab-el- Nadur. 
In  the  12th  century  the  city  extended 
more  towards  the  E.,  in  those  parts 
where  now  stand  the  churches  of  San 
Martin  and  San  Gines,  and  towards  the 
S.  to  San  Francisco.  In  those  days, 
over  the  present  arid  plains  extended 
thick  forests  of  oaks,  chestnuts,  and 
madronos  (strawberry-tree),  infested 
with  bears,  wolves,  and  other  wild 
beasts,  thus  affording  excellent  hunting 
and  shooting,  to  enjoy  which  the  kings 
of  Castile  often  repaired  to  Madrid.  It 
must  have  been  then  a  city  of  some 
importance,  as  it  was  often  chosen  for 
the  convocation  of  the  Cortes,  and  the 
coronation  of  kings ;  however,  it 
assumed  no  well-marked  individual 
importance  until  the  16th  century, 
when  it  became  the  constant  residence 
of  Charles  T.  The  climate  was  well 
suited  to  the  infirmities  of  the  emperor ; 
and  another  monarch,  Sancho  IT.,  had 
already  resided  here  for  the  sake  of  its 
invigorating  '  aires.'  Though  Toledo 
was  then  the  court  and  capital,  the 
emperor  often  preferred  the  sojourn  of 
the  quiet  hunting-box  of  Madrid  ;  and 
the  election  of  this  city  as  the  metro- 
polis of  the  kingdom  was  not  Philip 
II. 's  idea,  but  had  long  prevailed  in  the 
mind  of  his  father  (Cabrera,  '  Hist  de 
Felipe  Segundo,'  book  v.   c.  S).    At 

this  monarch's  instigation,  strengthened 
by  the  vicinity  of  the  Escorial,  in  which 


258 


MADRID — HOTELS. 


he  had  resolved  mostly  to  live,  Philip 
II.  declared  Madrid  the  only  court  of 
the  kingdom,  Ulrica  Corte  (1560).  This 
most  wise  and  politic  measure  has  often 
caused  surprise  in  those  who  have  over- 
looked the  serious  reasons  that  dictated 
it.  The  unification  of  tho  monarchy 
could  be  achieved  only  by  the  centralis- 
ation of  power  ;  and  with  the  hope  of 
absorbing  all  hostile  feeling  then  so 
prevalent  between  provinces,  bethought 
it  wise  to  select  a  city  free  from  local 
traditions,  and  for  that  reason  more 
willingly  acceptable  to  all.  Great  pro- 
jects were  planned,  the  realisation  of 
which  would  have  confirmed  this  selec- 
tion ;  but  the  death  of  the  king  and 
subsequent  reigns  impeded  their  being 
earned  out.  Philip  III.  removed  his 
court  to  Valladolid,  but  the  interests 
already  created  in  Madrid  were  too 
powerful  now  to  admit  of  such  a  change, 
and  the  climate  of  Valladolid  was 
moreover  ill  suited  to  the  king.  Philip 
V.  and  Charles  III.  considerably  en- 
larged the  city,  and  added  many  useful 
public  works,  edifices,  and  monuments. 
During  the  French  occupation  of  Mad- 
rid several  projects  of  amelioration  and 
embellishment  were  planned,  which,  if 
realised,  would  have  considerably  im- 
proved the  capital. 

The  city  arms  (see  page  257)  are  : 
a  tree  vert,  with  fruit  gules,  up  which 
a  bear  is  climbing,  an  orb  azure,  with 
eight  stars  argent,  and  over  the  silver 
escutcheon  a  royal  crown,  which  last 
was  granted  by  Charles  V.  in  1544. 
The  city  is  styled  *  Imperial  y  coronada, 
muy  noble  y  muy  leal,'  to  which  Fer- 
dinand VII.,  in  1814,  added  *y  muy 
heroica.' 

Madrid  rises  on  the  slopes  and  sur- 
face of  a  plateau  formed  by  sandy 
limestone  hills,  on  a  plain  which  is 
bounded  N.N.E.  by  the  Somosierra,- and 
N.  W.  by  the  Guadarrama  range  of  hills, 
which    latter  are   capped  with  snow 


often  till  June.  The  Manzanares  girds 
it  to  the  W.  and  S.W.  It  is  the  resi- 
dence of  the  court,  Metropolis  de  las 
Espanas,  captaincy-general  of  Castilla 
la  Nueva  and  a  bishop's  see,  suffragan 
of  Toledo  (a  concession  of  the  last  con- 
cordat with  Rome). 

Hotels. — None  first  class.  Hotel  de 
la  Paix,  Puerto  del  Sol,  the  best,  and 
well  situated.  Pension  from  12 J  pes. 
a  day  upwards. 

2.  Hotel  de  Paris,  Puerto  del  Sol. 
Good  hotel,  but  not  so  sunny  as  No.  1. 
Lift.  English  spoken.  From  12  J  pes. 
a  day.     G.  Guidi,  good  courier. 

3.  Hotel  de  Roma,  Caballero  de 
Gracia.  Very  good,  but  not  so  well 
situated. 

4.  Hotel  de  Rusia,  Carrera  de  San 
Geronimo.     Fair.     From  10  pes. 

5.  Hotel  Ingles,  Calle  Echegaray. 
Excellent  table  and  every  convenience, 
but  Spanish.     Charges  from  10  pes. 

6.  Hotel  Universo,  Puerta  del  Sol,  14. 
Good  and  moderate.     From  8  pes. 

7.  Hotel  de  los  Embajadores,  Calle 
de  la  Victoria ;  comfortable  and  mod- 
erate, but  Spanish. 

8.  Hotel  de  Sevilla,  Calle  Alcala,  33  : 
good  private  hotel :  prices  from  10  pes. 

9.  Hotel  Peninsular,  Calle  Mayor, 
43,  with  restaurant.     Well  spoken  of. 

N.B. —  Prices  at  hotels  in  Madrid 
are  charged  whether  the  visitor  dines 
and  breakfasts  at  the  hotel  or  not. 

Lodgings — Called  Gasas  de  Huespedes 
(huesped,  a  guest),  a  sort  of  boarding- 
house,  where,  for  a  fixed  price,  vary- 
ing from  6  to  10  pes.  a  day,  everything 
included,  parties  can  get  a  very  decent 
room,  two  meals  a  day,  and  attendance 
(for  the  latter  2r.  extra  are  usually 
paid  a  day). 


MADRID — THE  CITY. 


259 


The  following  partake  of  the  com- 
forts found  in  hotels,  and,  though  the 
dearest,  are  the  best,  in  Madrid : — 

Several,  close  by  the  Puerta  del  Sol, 
in  the  Arenal,  Preciados,  Carmen,  etc. ; 
No.  8  and  Nos.  16  and  18  Arenal ;  No. 
12,  Calle  Mayor ;  Nos.  7  and  9  Carrera 
de  San  Geroniino.  In  these  houses,  as 
in  all  the  hotels,  electric  light.  •  In 
some  of  them  Spanish  ways  must 
not  be  objected  to,  or  an  occasional 
Spanish  dish,  but  there  is  nothing 
to  offend  any  save  the  most  fastidi- 
ous. Unprejudiced  travellers  will 
find  a  good  Casa  de  Hu&pedes 
thoroughly  comfortable,  and  reason- 
able in  cost  compared  with  the  ground- 
lessly  high  prices  of  some  of  the  great 
hotels* 

There  is  a  house  in  the  Calle  de 
Postas  (Posada  del  Peine)  where  strict 
economists  may  hire  rooms  at  1  pes.  a 
day,  all  meals  being  taken  abroad.  The 
situation  is  good,  and  the  accommoda- 
tion is  well  spoken  of.  For  other 
similar  establishments  see  advertise- 
ments in  papers,  or  inquire  of  residents. 

If  intending  to  reside  some  time,  it 
will  be  advisable  to  take  an  apartment 
with  or  without  furniture,  according 
to  the  conditions.  The  latter  may  be 
hired  by  the  month  or  year  at  moderate 
prices.  The  best  apartments,  pour 
gar$on,  are  situated  in  Plaza  de  Oriente 
(choose  the  side  with  a  southern  aspect), 
Plazuela  de  Bilbao,  Calle  del  Arenal, 
etc. 

Restaurants:  De  Fornos. — Dinners 
and  suppers,  5  to  7  pes.  a  head,  or  a  la 
carte ;  excellent,  and  situated  in  the 
Calle  de  Alcala,  No.  19. 

Cafe"  de  Madrid.  —  Good  French 
cuisine  ;  not  so  fashionable ;  in  Calle 
de  Alcala. 


Cafd  IngUs.  Calle  de  Sevilla,  4.— 
Excellent  chops  and  steaks. 

Lhardy. — An  old  established  French 
house,  Carrera  San  Gerdnimo.  De- 
jeuners, 10  pes.;  dinners,  12.50  pes. 
without  wine. 

Besides  the  regular  establishments, 
several  of  the  hotels — the  Ingles,  the 
Peninsular,  the  Santa  Cruz,  etc. — have 
restaurants  to  which  the  public  are 
invited.  Prices  should  be  settled  be- 
forehand. 

Cafts.—  El  Suizo,  Madrid,  Fornos, 
all  in  the  Alcala ;  Oriental,  and 
Levante,  in  the  Puerta  del  Sol,  Cerve- 
ceria  Inglesa,  in  the  Carrera  de  San 
GercSnimo,  28.  Viena,  Calle  de  Alcala, 
42  (for  ladies). 

The  charges  at  the  hotels  and  res- 
taurants have  changed  of  late  years  a 
good  deal  in  the  undesirable  direction, 
and  it  may  be  wise  to  examine  the 
tariffs  in  supplement  to  the  above 
figures. 

General  Description.  —  Madrid, 
notwithstanding  the  most  unfavourable 
circumstances  that  can  check  the  pros- 
perity of  a  metropolis — such  as  a  great 
elevation,  an  almost  waterless  river,  an 
arid,  sandy  soil,  and  an  isolated  situa- 
tion amid  treeless  and  wind-blown 
plains,  to  which  may  be  added  the 
neglect  of  Government,  the  paralysation 
of  private  enterprise,  and  other  disas- 
trous effects  with  which  continued 
political  disturbances  are  usually  at- 
tended—  has  now,  with  the  rest  of 
Spanish  cities  and  the  country  at  large, 
fairly  entered  the  path  of  progress,  and 
bids  fair  to  become  shortly  one  of  the 
handsomest  and  most  prosperous  capi- 
tals of  Europe.  The  old  suppression  of 
convents,  the  Law  of  Desamortizacion, 
and  subsequent  sale  of  church  and  part 
of  the  secular  property,  as  well  as  the 
reform  of  the  municipal  corporation 


260 


MADRID THE  STREETS. 


and  the  enactment  of  new  regulations 
concerning  the  police,  public  health, 
etc.,  have  certainly  been  powerful 
causes  in  placing  Madrid  in  so  pros- 
perous a  course ;  but  it  is  principally 
indebted  for  this  to  the  now  possible 
and  already  much  extending  and  na- 
turalised companies  of  credit,  which 
were  called  to  life  under  the  Progresista 
Ministry.  These  have  by  their  vigour- 
ous  initiative  succeeded  in  spreading  a 
network  of  railways  over  Spain,  of 
which  Madrid  has  been  made  the 
centre ;  and  they,  moreover,  have 
assisted,  with  their  capitals,  govern- 
ment, and  speculators,  in  realising 
works  of  great  public  utility  and  im- 
provement Thus  the  capital  has  been 
placed  in  direct  communication  with 
the  Mediterranean  by  the  Alicante, 
Valencia,  and  Barcelona  lines ;  with 
the  Atlantic  by  the  Santander,  Bilbao, 
S.  Sebastian,  and  Corolla  railways ;  and 
with  Portugal  by  the  lines  running 
through  Badajos,  Caceres  and  Sala- 
manca. Madrid  has  been  made  the 
axis  of  a  wheel  from  which  the 
many  main  railway  lines  diverge  like 
spokes ;  and  by  this  means  the  varied 
articles  of  commerce  belonging  to  the 
kingdom  have  been  rendered  easily 
come-at-able.  All  the  necessaries 
and  luxuries  of  life,  whether  imported 
from  the  provinces  or  from  abroad,  are 
now  obtained  in  greater  abundance  and 
at  lower  prices  than  before.  Tele- 
graphic wires  also  connect  the  metro- 
polis with  every  large  city  within  the 
kingdom,  thus  affording  to  Government 
the  power  of  exercising  a  comprehensive 
and  effective  action  over  the  provinces. 
Drought,  which  had  been  heretofore  a 
permanent  cause  of  ill-health,  and  the 
great  obstacle  to  the  embellishment  of 
the  town,  and  even  to  the  amelioration 
of  its  climate  (by  making  impossible 
the  plantations  necessary  to  counteract 
its  noxious  influence),  is  now  no  longer 


to  be  dreaded,  since  a  very  abundant 
supply  of  beautiful  clear  water  has  been 
brought  from  the  Lozoya,  a  river  that 
rises  some  12  leagues  (42  m.)  off,  under 
the  Guadarrama,  and  numerous  planta- 
tions have  consequently  been  made, 
squares  established,  and  villas  and 
gardens  sprung  up  in  all  directions. 
Large  stores  and  several  manufactories 
have  been  established.  Several  com- 
panies, with  large  capital  subscribed 
by  respectable  firms,  have  been  set  on 
foot  for  the  exclusive  purpose  of  build- 
ing houses  and  opening  new  quarters 
in  and  around  Madrid ;  and  from  all 
these  causes  the  population  increased 
to  such  an  extent  that  Government 
deemed  it  expedient  to  issue  a  Royal 
Decree  (July  19,  1860),  by  which  the 
boundaries  of  the  city  (an  area  of 
15,553  varas)  were  to  be  extended  by 
3500  acres  more.  The  value  of  pro- 
perty, a  sure  sign  of  prosperity,  has  of 
late  years  so  considerably  increased  that 
central  portions  have  been  sold  at  prices 
that  would  compare  with  those  of  any 
other  great  continental  cities. 

As  to  the  general  appearance  of  Ma- 
drid, we  may  state  that  it  has  little  or 
nothing  Spanish  about  it.  There  are 
no  vestiges  of  the  Moorish,  mediaeval, 
or  brilliant  periods  of  Spanish  art ;  no 
great  cathedral  or  any  churches  con- 
taining objects  of  art  to  interest  the 
tourist ;  and  the  few  monuments  and 
public  edifices  that  exist  were  erected 
in  a  period  of  decadence,  when  the 
churriguresqne  and  rococo  were  all  the 
fashion,  and  marked  the  likewise  fallen 
spirit  of  the  age  and  court.  The  artist, 
however,  may  turn  aside  from  these  to 
devote  his  time  and  admiration  to  the 
magnificent  picture-gallery,  which  con- 
stitutes, with  the  royal  palace,  the  em- 
phatic feature  of  Madrid,  and  admits  no 
equal  in  the  world. 

The  streets  are  wide,  clean,  well 
paved,    and    well    lighted ;    spacious 


MADRID — PUEKfA  DEL  SOL. 


261 


squares  have  been  laid  out  with  trees 
and  ornamented  with  grass-plots, 
flowers,  and  fountains  ;  the  new  shops 
in  some  streets  almost  rival  those  of 
Paris.  The  houses,  with  the  exception 
the  grandees'  mansions  and  some  other 
private  ones,  are  lofty,  with  ginger- 
bread plaster  frontages,  painted  some- 
times  in  gay  colours.  They  are  mostly 
built  on  speculation,  and  are  let  out 
for  lodgings,  and  hold  several  families 
having  the  same  staircase  in  common, 
as  in  Pans.  They  are  well  provided 
with  fireplaces  and  water,  and  remark- 
able for  the  Flemish  cleanliness  and 
peculiar  luxe  displayed  in  the  stucco 
entrance-hall  and  winding  staircases. 
There  is  great  life  and  movement  in 
the  streets  ;  and  though  the  population 
has  a  European  character  in  its  dress, 
some  picturesque  costumes  may  yet  be 
seen  here  and  there,  and  the  mantilla 
and  cloak  have  not  altogether  disappeared 
before  the  invading  French  bonnet.  The 
toilettes  at  the  theatres,  and  the  Paris 
turn-outs  and  English  horses  at  the 
Fuente  Castellana,  exhibit  an  amount 
of  wealth,  taste,  and  outlay  unparalleled 
in  any  other  city  of  the  same  size  in 
Europe. 

The  Puerto,  del  Sol  is  the  most  central 
part  of  Madrid,  and  the  heart  of  the 
city.  From  it  diverge  the  principal 
streets,  which  are  the  broad  and  hand- 
some Oalle  de  Alcala,  running  parallel 
with  the  Carrera  de  San  Geronimo, 
which  leads  direct  to  the  picture-gallery. 
The  Calle  de  Carretas,  almost  opposite 
to  the  steep  and  old-fashioned  Calle  de 
la  Montera,  from  the  top  of  which  four 
streets  branch — viz.,  the  Hortalezaand 
Fuencarral  parallel  to  each  other,  and 
at  the  sides  the  Caballero  de  Gracia, 
which  emerges  in  tho  Calle  de  Alcala, 
and  the  Jacometrezo,  ending  in  Calle 
Ancha  de  San  Bernardo.  The  Calle 
Mayor  and  del  A  renal  lead  to  the  palace. 
The  longest  street  is  the  Calle  de  Atocha, 


which  begins  at  Plaza  Mayor,'  and  ends 
close  to  the  Alicante  and  Zaragoza  rail- 
way terminus.  The  best  streets  for 
shops  are  the  Carrera  de  San  Ger6- 
nimo,  the  Carretas,  the  Montera,  and 
Postas.  The  quarter  where  the  finest 
buildings  are  to  be  seen  is  the  Salon 
del  Prado  and  Paseo  de  Recoletos. 
The  Plaza  Mayor  and  Plaza  de 
Oriente  are  the  finest  squares,  the 
first  generally  frequented  by  the  lower 
classes.  The  Calle  de  Toledo  is  the 
most  Spanish-looking  street  in  the  capi- 
tal ;  and  the  adjacent  quarters,  inhabited 
by  the  lower  orders — such  as  El  Lava- 
pies,  Rastro,  Barrio  Nuevo,  together 
with  the  parish  of  San  Andres,  San 
Francisco  et  Grande,  and  the  old  Mo- 
reria  (district  or  locality  formerly  al- 
lotted to  the  Moors) — form  the  older 
portion  of  the  city,  which  overhangs  the 
Manzanares.  The  new  barrios  or  quar- 
ters tend  rather  towards  the  suburbs  oi 
Chambery,  Canal,  and  gate  of  Alcala. 
The  principal  villages  around  Madrid 
are  Carabanchel  (divided  into  higher 
and  lower  portions),  San  Isidro,  and 
El  Pardo. 

The  Season  at  Madrid  begins  about 
the  middle  of  October,  and  ends  in 
June.  The  Castilians,  as  a  race,  are 
a  grave,  sedate  people  ;  but  the  Madri- 
le&os,  though  Castellanos  also,  depart 
from  this  rule,  and  the  liveliness, 
sprightliness,  and  gaiety  of  these  self- 
called  '  Gatos  de  Madrid '  are  equal  to 
their  love  for  pleasure,  fondness  of  show, 
boato,  and  their  fur  ia  for  theatricals  and 
pageants.  It  may  be  truly  affi rmed  that 
as  God  worked  six  days  and  rested  on 
the  seventh,  Madrilenos  rest  the  six, 
and  on  the  seventh  ...  go  to  tho 
bull -fight ;  &  los  tor os  1  Indeed,  such 
is  their  longing  for  excitement,  that 
they  will  go  without  their  puchero 
rather  than  miss  a  new  drama,  or 
fail  to  attend  a  procession,  or  be 
debarred  from  enjoying  the  minutest 


262 


MADRID — SOCIETY. 


details  of  any  other  spectacle  that  may 
come  within  their  compass.  There 
are'  twelve  to  fifteen  theatres  and 
circuses,  which  are  usually  crowded ; 
and  as  Spaniards  like  music  and  under- 
stand it,  the  Italian  and  national  opera 
comique  (la  zarzuela)  are  in  great  vogue, 
and  the  companies  first-rate. 

Carnival  is  the  gayest  period  in  the 
year,  and  tourists  must  not  fail  to  re- 
sort then  to  the  Prado  on  the  three 
glorious  days  of  public  merriment,  when 
half  the  population  turns  out  de  mas- 
cara, to  *  intrigue'  and  'chaff'  the  other 
half,  all  in  the  pleasantest  and  most 
good-humoured  way ;  for  it  is  a  charac- 
teristic of  this  people,  that  in  all  popular 
outbursts,  at  fetes,  bull-fights,  races,  or 
elsewhere,  riots,  drunken  men,  black 
eyes,  blacklegs,  and  blackguards,  are 
seldom  to  be  seen,  and  all  and  each  ob- 
serve a  dignified  deportment,  and  pay 
great  respect  to  authority.  To  those 
that  are  acquainted  with  London, 
Vienna,  or  Paris  fast  life,  there  will  be 
here  little  to  amuse,  and  Madrid  must 
prove  a  '  slow '  place.  The  promenade 
to  the  Prado,  and  drive  to  the  Obelisco 
Castellana ;  the  opera  in  the  evening,  or 
&  visit  to  the  theatres,  and  now  and  then 
a  ball  at  court,  a  soiree  dansante  at  a 
foreign  minister's,  or  one  or  two  bals 
costumes — such  are  the  events  in  a 
Madrid  man's  life.  Add  to  the  list  the 
usual  daily  round  of  tertttiias,  and  now 
and  then  a  canter  across  a  denuded, 
hedgeless  country,  after,  and  often  be- 
fore, some  hungry,  vagabondising  hare. 
The  casino  and  caf&s  are  the  great  resort 
after  the  theatre.  It  is  well  situated, 
and  comfortable,  and  frequented  by 
good  society.  There  is  a  good  deal 
of  gambling  at  the  trente-et-quarante 
tables ;  and,  although  most  that  play 
are  caballeros  por  los  cuatro  cos&ados, 
there  may  be,  now  and  then,  a  few  ex- 
ceptions, and  we  advise  our  readers  to 
abstain  and  look  on. 


The  blame  of  want  of  hospitality, 
which  is  so  freely  lavished  on  Spaniards, 
is  not,  on  the  whole,  a  just  one.  The 
Spaniard  is  a  man  of  his  home  ;  he  is 
fond  of  an  intimate  circle  of  friends,  in 
whose  society  he  can  live  without  gene, 
think  aloud,  say  what  he  pleases,  and 
dress  as  he  likes.  Intimate  friends  are 
engaged  once  for  all  to  dine  with  each 
other  on  a  particular  day,  every  week  ; 
and  the  dinners,  usually  cooked  by 
French  artistes,  are  first-rate.  Strangers 
invading  this  intimate  coterie,  or  ter- 
tttiia,  and  expecting  the  white  choker 
round  one's  neck,  and  round  one's 
thoughts — strangers,  elestrangero,  those 
natural  foes  to  all  Eastern  nations,  who 
would  criticise  the  faulty  French  spoken 
for  their  sake,  and  laugh  at  the  habits  of 
the  people— these  are  not  invited  as 
often  as  they  might  expect.  "Were  they 
to  show  greater  tact,  and  more  courtesy 
towards  little  faiblesses,  they  would  de- 
rive both  pleasure  and  advantage,  and 
share  the  easy,  courteous,  open-hearted 
society  of  well-bred  Spaniards,  who  will 
always  give  place,  and  be  the  first  to 
know  and  state  the  truth  about  them- 
selves and  their  country.  As  to  the 
rest,  society,  in  manners,  dress,  etc.,  is 
here  what  it  is  in  London  or  Paris ;  and 
we  must  lay  aside  antiquated  notions 
and  romantic  impressions,  which  may 
have  been  acquired  from  recollections  of 
11  Barbiere  di  Siviglia  in  London. 

There  is  little  or  no  art  in  Madrid, 
though  the  city  possesses  on  e  of  the  finest 
collections  (the  Museo)  of  paintings  in 
the  world,  and  the  Spaniard  is  intensely 
proud  of  the  great  names  of  the  past. 
Only  a  few  artists  find  real  encour- 
agement, and  the  picture-gallery  is 
generally  deserted.  Literature  is  still 
at  a  low  ebb.  Spaniards,  engaged  until 
now  in  serious  political  dissensions  and 
civil  war,  which  were  constantly  menac- 
ing their  property  and  lives,  have  not 
had  leisure  to  attend  to  intellectual 


MADRID  —  THE  ROYAL  PALACE. 


263 


pursuits  ;  though  honourable  mention, 
by  way  of  exception  to  snch  a  sweeping 
rule,  must  be  made  of  such  circles  as 
£1  Ateneo  Cientifico  7  Literario,  and 
the  entourage  of  the  professors  of  the 
various  Academiaa,  La  Institucion  de  la 
Ensenanza  libre,  etc.  On  the  advent  of 
summer,  all  who  can  afford  it  leave 
Madrid,  which  is  then  converted  into  a 
furnace,  and  pass  los  calorea  either  in  the 
mountains  or  at  some  favourite  seaside 
resort,  such  as  San  Sebastian  or  Biarritz. 
Then  blinds  or  awnings  are  stretched 
over  every  window  and  mirador.  Dur- 
ing the  day,  between  noon  and  6  p.m.,  no 
human  being  is  to  be  seen  in  the  streets, 
except,  perhaps,  as  the  proverb  has  it, 
1  un  perro  6  un  franceV  People  in  that 
season  dine  at  five,  and  afterwards  take 
a  siesta.  From  9  to  12  at  night  the 
Prado  becomes  crowded.  The  gas- 
lamps  are  lighted ;  large  iron  arm-chairs 
lie  scattered  in  circles  for  tertulias  al 
aire,  and  people,  for  the  first  time  in 
the  day,  are  able  to  open  their  mouths 
without  too  excruciating  an  effort.  A 
line  of  open  carriages,  dragged  lazily 
along  by  horses  with  drooping  ears,  and 
still  at  their  siesta,  winds  at  a  foot's- 
pace  along  the  still-heated  iron  railings, 
leaning  over  which  are  beardless  Don 
Juans  and  sentimental  Trovatores,  in 
light  alpacas,  who  listlessly  watch  las 
ninas  as  they  pass,  and  now  cast  a 
glance  of  recognition,  or  smile  in  token 
of  respectful  admiration. 

Royal  Palace. — Visited  with  great 
difficulty  by  procuring  a  papeleta  (per- 
mit) from  the  Intendente  de  la  Casa 
Real ;  apply  with  card  and  passport. 
In  the  square  adjoining  the  Palace  the 
guard  is  changed  every  morning  at 
half-past  ten  o'clock,  and  visitors  in- 
tending to  see  the  Palace  or  the  Armeria 
can  easily  assist  at  this. very  notable 
ceremony,  which  lasts  usually  about 
half  an  hour.  To  visit  the  stables, 
apply  at  the  Intendencia,  at  the  N.E. 


corner  of  the  Plaza  de  Armas.  The 
best  time  is  Monday,  2  to  4  p.m. 
The  order  should  bo  procured  be- 
forehand. The  entrance  to  the  stables 
is  in  the  Oalle  de  Bailen.  The  Lib- 
rary consists  of  about  100,000  books 
and  MSS.  It  may  be  readily  visited 
through  an  introduction  to  the 
librarian,  and  permission  to  study 
in  it  obtained.  The  Palace  is  built  on 
the  site  of  the  Alcazares  that  stood  in 
the  10th  and  11th  centuries,  the  last  of 
which  was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  ; 
and  of  a  former  palace  built  by  Henry 
IV.,  enlarged  by  Charles  V.  in  1557, 
embellished  by  Philip  II.  and  completed 
by  Philip  III.,  who  added  a  facade,  which 
was  a  masterpiece  of  architecture,  and 
the  joint  work  of  the  great  masters,  the 
Toledos,  Herreras,  Moras,  Luis,  and 
Gaspar  de  Vega,  etc.  The  reception- 
hall,  170  ft.  long,  the  wonderful  picture- 
gallery  (which,  among  other  gems,  con- 
tained the  Torre  Horada  of  Titian) — 
the  Guarda  Joyas,  or  Regalia,  among 
which  was  a  diamond  of  an  enormous 
size  worth  200,000  ducats  ;  a  pearl  as 
big  as  a  nut,  called  La  Huerfana  (the 
Orphan),  from  its  being  unique,  worth 
30,000  ducats,  a  considerable  sum  for 
that  time  ;  and  a  wonderful  fleur-de-lis 
in  gold — all  these  and  many  other  mar- 
vels, which  existed  at  the  beginning  of 
the  reign  of  Philip  IV.,  were  unfortu- 
nately destroyed  in  a  fire  which  took 
place  on  Christmas  night  1734,  and 
consumed  the  whole  building.  Full 
details  of  these  may  be  found  in  Davila's 
'Teatrode  las  Grandezas  de  Madrid.' 
Philip  V.,  that  pale  counterfeit  of  Louis 
XIV.,  resolved  on  building  a  new  palace 
that  would  eclipse  Versailles.  He  sent 
to  the  court  of  Turin  for  the  celebrated 
architect,  the  Abbate  Jubarra,  who  de- 
signed a  palace  which  was  to  be  situated 
on  the  heights  of  San  Bernardino,  and 
such  as  had  never  been  Seen  to  that  day. 
It  was  to  be  a  square  edifice,   of  the 


264 


MADRID — THE  ROYAL  PALACE. 


Composite  order,  to  have  four  facades, 
each  1700  ft  long,  thirty-four  entrances, 
2000  pillars,  twenty-three  courts,  gar- 
dens, a  theatre,  churches,  and  public 
offices — in  fact,  a  town  of  palaces, 
rather  than  one  alone ;  an  idea  of  which 
may  be  gathered  from  a  small  model 
now  in  the  Galeria  Topografica.  But 
kings,  often  great  builders,  are  seldom 
good  architects,  and  Philip  crippled  the 
genius  of  Jubarra,  changed  both  his 
plan  and  situation,  preferring  the  pre- 
sent site  to  that  which  he  had  suggested, 
and  which  was  superior  in  every  respect. 
But  before  he  had  begun  the  works,  the 
Abbate  died,  and  designated  for  his 
successor  (for  genius  is  also  royalty), 
his  countryman  Giovambattista  Sachet- 
ti,  a  native  of  Turin.  This  architect, 
more  a  courtier  than  an  independent 
artist,  altered  his  predecessor's  plans, 
moulding  them  to  the  king's  fancy,  and 
employed  his  ingenuity  in  turning  to 
good  account  the  declivity  and  uneven- 
nes8  of  the  ground,  thus  gaining  in 
depth  and  height  what  was  lost  in  ex- 
tent and  breadth. 

The  first  stone  was  laid  April  7th, 
1 737.  It  was  first  inhabited  by  Charles 
III.  (1764),  who  added  the  two  salient 
pavilions  at  the  angles,  and  two  wings, 
at  each  side  of  the  principal  facade, 
which  have  recently  been  finished. 
The  cost  amounted  then  to  £800,000, 
without  the  foundations.  The  building 
forms  a  square  471  ft.,  and  100  high  ; 
it  belongs  to  the  Tuscan  style ;  the  base 
is  of  granite,  and  the  upper  portion  of 
the  beautiful  white  stone  of  Colmenar, 
which  resembles  marble.  It  is  com- 
posed of  three  storeys  ;  the  lower  one  is 
plain,  severe,  and  massive  ;  that  above 
is  made  lighter  by  means  of  columns 
and  semi-attached  pillars,  of  Doric  and 
Ionic  style,  dividing  a  row  of  balconies, 
high  and  narrow,  and  crowned  J>y  a 
triangular  frontispiece  alternately  with 
a  circular  one  ;  the  third,  and  upper 


storey,  consists  of  small,  square,  paltry 
windows.  A  wide  cornice  runs  round 
the  top,  and  over  it  is  a  stone  balustrade, 
on  the  pedestal  of  which  stand  rococo 
vases  which  were  substituted  for  the 
former  series  of  statues  of  kings  and 
queens,  now  decorating  the  Plaza  del 
Oriente,  and  removed  on  account  of 
their  great  weight.  The  roof  is  of 
slates,  and  crowded  with  bokardillas, 
(attics  or  garrets)  where  live  a  dense 
population  of  pensioned  invalid  flunkeys, 
and  swarms  of  well-doing  pigeons. 

The  principal  facade  is  to  the  south, 
and  is  pierced  by  five  ingresses ;  that 
to  the  E.,  on  Plaza  de  Oriente,  is  called 
1  del  Principe ; '  it  is  always  used  by  the 
royal  family,  except  indeed  the  reign- 
ing monarch.  The  late  King,  Alfonso 
XII.,  however,  could  be  seen  leaving 
the  palace  by  the  Plaza  de  Oriente  for 
his  afternoon  drive.  He  lived  in  the 
right  aisle.  The  principal  royal  apart- 
ments overhang  the  Campo  del  Moro, 
with  a  fine  view  of  the  Pardo  and  the 
Guadarrama  range.  The  walls  on  the 
S.  and  eastern  side  rise  100  ft,  but 
from  the  uneven  ground  those  towards 
the  river  are  more  than  twice  that 
height.  The  northern  entrance  is  con- 
sidered the  most  effective,  and  so  think 
also  the  unfortunate  sentries,  many  of 
whom  are  frozen  to  death  during  the 
winter  months,  especially  those  on 
guard  at  the  Punta  del  Diamante. 

In  the  centre  is  a  'Patio,'  140  ft 
square  and  surrounded  by  an  open  por- 
tico composed  of  thirty-six  arches,  and 
as  many  above  which  form  a  gallery 
with  glass  windows  :  in  this  court  are 
four  large  statues  of  the  four  Roman 
Emperors — who  were  natives  of  Spain 
viz.,  Trajan,  Adrian,  Honorius,  and 
Theodosius — all  indifferent ;  indeed  the 
patio  is  so,  and  moreover  cold  and  de« 
mided. 

The.  grand  staircase  is  magnificent,  of 
white  and  black  marble,  and  rises  op 


MADRID — PALACE. 


265 


posite  to  an  indifferent  statue  of  Charles 
III.  The  marble  lions  are  finely  exe- 
cuted. On  Napoleon's  entering  this 
palace  for  the  first  time  in  1808,  he  is 
said  to  have  exclaimed,  while  eagerly 
.  placing  his  hand  on  one  of  them,  '  Je  la 
tiens  enfin  cette  Espagne  si  desireV 
('Teneo  te,  Africa,'  said  Caesar);  and 
turning  round  to  his  brother  Joseph, 
he  added,  '  Mon  frere,  vous  serez  mieux 
logo  que  moi,'  and  he  stood  some  time 
pensive,  gazing  on  a  portrait  of  Philip 
II.  He  never  lived  in  this  palace,  but 
at  Chamartin,  a  small  villa  of  the  Duque 
del  Infantado,  half-an-hour  from  Ma- 
drid. The  fresco  ceiling  was  painted 
by  the  academical  Conrado  Giachinto, 
and  represents  the  Triumph  of  Religion 
and  of  the  Church,  to  whom  Spain  is 
offering  her  trophies  and  the  fruits  of 
the  soil. 

The  first  floor  contains  thirty  salons 
magnificently  furnished,  and  with  fresco 
ceilings  by  Bayeu  Maella,  and  Gonza- 
lez Velazquez ;  everything  here  is  on 
the  usual  princely  scale  of  Spanish 
palaces.  Observe  the  countless  clocks, 
a  mania  with  Ferdinand  VII.  and  his 
father,  who  never  knew  the  right  time, 
and  were,  like  them,  either  too  slow  or 
too  fast ;  this  defect  has  been  transmit- 
ted to  the  family,  and  foreign  ambassa- 
dors at  this  court  attribute  the  want  of 
punctuality  shown  by  its  members  to 
this  multiplicity  of  time-pieces.  Charles 
V.  was  also  a  great  collector,  and  on  not 
succeeding  to  make  two  go  alike,  ob- 
served how  foolish  it  was  to  pretend  to 
make  men's  heads  think  the  same. 
There  are  few  good  pictures  remaining 
of  the  former  numerous  collection,  most 
of  which  were  removed  to  the  museo  in 
the  reign  of  Ferdinand  VII.  The  prin- 
cipal salon  is  the  '  hall  of  ambassadors,' 
or  'Sala  del  Trono.'  The  ceiling  by 
Tiepolo  represents  the  *  Majesty  of 
Spain  ; '  observe  the  costumes  personi- 
fying the  different  provinces. 


Chapel  Royal  of  the  pseudo-classical 
style,  with  •  Corinthian  marble  pillars 
and  frescoes  by  Conrado ;  the  tribunes 
opposite  to  the  altar  are  occupied  only 
by  the  royal  family.  The  church,  con- 
sisting of  one  nave  only,  is  gaudy. 
N.B. — Tourists  should  not  fail  to  be 
present  at  the  Zavatorio,  or  washing  the 
feet  of  the  poor,  which  is  performed  by 
the  King  on  Holy  Thursday.  To  see 
this  ceremony  a  card  is  necessary.  The 
regalia  are  on  the  whole  worthy  of  a 
sovereign  whose  ancestors  ruled  for  so 
long  the  destinies  of  the  New  World ; 
but  they  are  seldom  shown.  The 
palace  garden,  situated  in  a  hollow 
between  the  western  facade  and  the 
Manzanares,  is  indifferently  laid  out ; 
examine  nevertheless  an  admirably  exe- 
cuted white  marble  fountain,  opposite 
to  the  conservatory,  which  has  been 
placed  in  the  underground  portion  of 
the  palace. 

The  Garden  and  adjacent  walks  oc- 
cupy the  site  of  a  former  park  often 
mentioned  in  the  comedies  of  Calderon 
and  Lope  de  Vega.  The  palace  must 
be  viewed  from  the  road,  the  Casa  de 
Campo,  or  from  the  height  of  the  Prin- 
cipe Pio.  Its  aspect  from  these  points 
is  the  best.  Examined  in  an  exclusive- 
ly architectural  view,  this  palace  marks 
an  important  datfi  in  the  history  of 
Spanish  art,  as  being  the  type  of  the 
second  Revival  of  Grseco-Roman  style. 
It  is  too  low,  heavy,  monotonous,  defi- 
cient in  purity  and  correctness,  and 
breathes  not  the  classical  spirit  of  Her- 
rera.  The  interruption  of  horizontal 
lines  by  salient  aggregates,  the  ill- 
judged  combination  of  these  same  lines, 
the  incongruous  ornamentation  of  out- 
lines and  mouldings — these  and  other 
defects  are  very  evident,  and  betray 
ignorance  of  the  adaptation  of  classical 
details,  and  even  of  the  fundamental 
principles  of  the  models  of  antiquity, 
in  simplicity  of  lines,  rectitude  of  pro- 


266 


MADRID — PALACE. 


files,  distinguished  by  a  horizontal  ten- 
dency. On  the  other  side  we  most 
admit  its  general  elegance,  sumptuosity, 
vast  proportions,  and  admirable  effect 

Stables  and  Coach-houses  of  the  Pa- 
lace.— These  were  began  by  Charles 
III.,  nihil  damnation  quam  in  adifi- 
cando,  and  finished  by  Ferdinand  VII. 
They  are  situated  on  the  north  of  the 
palace,  occupying  a  most  extensive  area, 
and,  from  the  uneven  ground  upon 
which  they  are  built,  the  horses  and 
carriages  which  enter  by  the  eastern  in- 
gresses  are  lodged  on  the  fourth  floor, 
looking  towards  the  north.  Visit  first 
the  stables,  Quadras,  which  contain 
something  like  one  hundred  horses  and 
mules.  Observe  the  long-maned,  cream- 
coloured  Aranjuez  carriage  breed.  A 
horse  couleur  de  rose  is  not  a  rare  thing 
in  this  happy  land  of  anomalies ;  and 
several  may  be  seen  here.  Admire 
the  splendid  fiery  Cordobese  barbs,  the 
finest  in  Madrid,  excepting  perhaps 
those  of  one  ot  two  of  the  aficion- 
ados. Visit  the  Prince  of  Asturias' 
stables,  composed  of  ponies  of  the  Shet- 
land and  Galician  breeds ;  the  Anda- 
lusian  jaquitas,  and  some  undersized 
mules  worth  any  sum.  The  taller 
members  of  the  long-eared  tribe  are  all 
first-rate,  and  most  admired  by  con- 
noisseurs of  that  neutral  gender  of  qua- 
drupeds, some  of  which  have  cost 
upwards  of  £100. 

Coach-houses  (Las  Cocheras). — They 
contain  124  vehicles  of  all  sizes,  dates, 
and  uses ;  from  the  cumbrous  old  coach, 
to  the  spider-like  Victoria  and  baby 
pony-chaise ;  from  the  triumphal  car, 
the  triumph  indeed  of  bad  taste,  down 
to  the  hearse,  all  gold  and  glitter,  and 
fitted  up  to  throw  royal  dust  to  the 
gaping  multitude.  The  carrozas,  or 
state  coaches,  are  superb ;  decorated 
with  paintings,  gilt-bronze  figures,  etc. ; 
that  inlaid  with  ebony,  and  the  master- 
piece of  Duran,  which  cost  £15,000, 


without  the  hammer-cloth,  which,  with 
others,  is  judiciously  kept  apart.  Ob* 
serve  another  all  mahogany,  platina, 
etc.,  which  cost  £9000.  From  an  early 
period  royalty  in  Spain  drove  always  in 
preference  to  riding,  which  was  custom- 
ary in  other  countries.  The  Spaniard 
loves  the  carriage,  and  there  were  thou- 
sands in  Spain,  before  there  were  any 
roads  for  them  to  go  upon  ;  but  sudden 
transitions  from  extremes  are  frequent 
here,  where  railways  have  been  substi- 
tuted for  roads,  gas  for  darkness,  Vol- 
taire and  Democracy  for  the  Inquisition. 
Many  of  the  older  coaches  have  been 
presents  from  sovereigns,  and  among 
them  are  two  very  modest  ones,  which 
were  sent  by  Queen  Victoria.  The 
more  modern  have  been  made  in  Paris. 
State  pageants  in  Spain  outstrip  in 
magnificence  and  display  any  in  France, 
Russia,  or  Austria;  even  when  the 
queen  travels,  the  whole  nation  may  be 
said  to  compose  her  suite,  such  are  the 
crowds  of  officials  and .  servants,  the 
strings  of  carriages  and  fourgons ;  the 
movement  of  troops  lining  the  way  and 
escorting  the  comitiva.  Do  not  omit 
the  dark  cumbrous  carriage  used  by 
Crazy  Jane,  when  she  carried  about 
with  her  the  body  of  her  husband, 
Philip  le  Bel.  It  is  the  earliest  on 
record  in  Spain,  1546,  so  it  is  said,  but 
the  coach  dates  beginning  of  37th 
century  from  its  style. 

Saddlery ,  'guarneV  (harness,  guar- 
necer,  to  trim).  Observe  the  richly-em- 
broidered hammer-cloths :  state  capa- 
razones  for  the  horses,  many  of  which 
were  embroidered  in  the  time  of 
Charles  V.  ;  the  showy  state  liveries, 
velvet  embroidered  saddles,  those  worn 
by  the  principal  grandees'  champions  on 
state  bull-fights  (cdballeros  en  plaza), 
etc.  etc. ;  the  raised  back  and  front, 
the  very  concave  shape,  stirrups,  etc., 
are  all  very  Moorish  and  such  as  are 
|  now   used    by    Picadores,   Alguaziles, 


MADRID — PALACE — ARMOURY. 


267 


etc.  Saddle  is  called  silla,  applied  also 
to  chair,  sedile,  from  which  the  English 
saddle,  German  sattle,  French  selle,  are 
all  derived.  The  old  Spaniard  was  a 
good  rider,  and  learnt  much  from  the 
hippie  Arab.  The  escuela  castellana 
picador  (riding-master)  teaches  the 
rising  generation  to  ride  stiffly,  the  toes 
on  the  edge  of  the  stirrups,  the  leg 
straight,  the  left  hand  gracefully  resting 
on  the  hip,  all  principles  which  look 
better  in  Velazquez  and  Titian's  eques- 
trian portraits  than  they  would  before  a 
four-bar  gate  in  Lincolnshire  or  a  six- 
foot  wall  in  Ireland.  The  riding-school 
(jncadero,  from  the  pricking  with  the 
pointed  end  of  the-  stirrup,  estribo, 
which  served  as  spurs)  is  large  and  well 
built  up.  Besides  the  royal  family, 
grooms  and  post-boys  of  the  Casa  Real 
are  taught  riding  a  la  Inglesa,  and  turn 
out  very  fair  ginetes. 

The  Armoury  (Museo  de  la  Real 
Armeria)  is  open  daily  from  about  10 
a.m.  until  noon.  Some  little  difficulty 
may  be  experienced  in  gaining  admit- 
tance, as  the  necessary  formalities 
are  somewhat  arbitrary.  A  special 
permit  is  necessary,  for  which  ap- 
plication must  be  made  at  the  In- 
tendencia  de  Palacio,  situated  at 
the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Plaza  de 
Armas.  The  old  edifice  built  by  Gas- 
par  de  la  Vega,  in  the  reign  of  Philip 
II.,  has  now  been  destroyed,  and  the 
Armoury  is  in  the  Plaza  itself.  It 
was  commenced  in  1565,  when  the 
splendid  collection  of  arms  formed  by 
Charles  V.  was  removed  hither  from 
Valladolid.  Many  important  later 
additions  from  Spanish  and  foreign 
sovereigns,  purchases,  etc.,  augmented 
the  collection.  Much  was  plundered 
by  the  French  during  their  occupation 
of  Madrid,  and  great  confusion  caused, 
which  was  slowly  remedied.  The  now 
rare  catalogue  published  1793,  drawn 


after  the  'Inventario  General  Hist<5rico ' 
of  the  same  year,  throws  little  light  on 
dubious  origins  of  swords,  etc  A  new 
arrangement  was  made  in  1848,  and  a 
complete  catalogue  was  drawn  up  in 
1861  by  Senor  Romero  after  Sensi's 
work  of  1838.  In  July  188^  a  fire 
caused  irremediable  injury,  consuming 
most  of  the  old  banners,  trappings, 
and  other  stuffs.  Fortunately  the 
more  valuable  objects  were  saved ;  and 
the  collection  is  still  probably  the 
finest  in  the  world.  A  fresh  rearrange- 
ment has  lately  been  made  (1895), 
and  the  collection  is  now  in  excellent 
state.  The  following  list  gives  the 
principal  objects  of  interest,  but  it 
must  be  taken  rather  as  a  companion 
than  as  a  guide.  No  hand  catalogue 
is  available,  but  the  articles  are  named. 

A  Moorish  sword,  called  Boabdil's;  doubt- 
ful, and  with  an  illegible  inscription.  Two 
ascribed  to  that  Granadine  king  are  mentioned 
in<the  catalogue  of  1793. 

The  Misrak  used  by  Ali-Bashah,  Admiral  of 
the  Turkish  fleet  at  Lepanto. 

A  montante,  sent  by  Clement  VIII.  to  Philip 
II.,  in  1593. 

Another  one,  sent  to  Juan  II.  of  Castile  by 
Pope  Eugenius  IV.,  in  1446.  An  elegant 
pommel. 

That  belonging  to  Garcia  de  Paredes.  Of 
the  Valencian  school. 

The  helmet  of  D.  Jayme  el  Conquistador. 
Of  paper  •board,  with  a  winged  dragon,  the 
Limousin  Dracpennat. 

Sword  which  belonged  to  D.  Jayme  el  Con- 
quistador. Brought  from  Majorca,  1831.  (See 
also  sword  of  Pelayo's.) 

A  large  and  very  ancient  sword.  Belonged 
to  Gonzalo  de  Cordoba. 

Sword,  belonged  to  King  Fernando  el  Santo ; 
with  figures  of  St.  Barbara  and  St.  Christopher, 
and  the  words  '  Jesus,  Maria.' 

Sword,  described  as  Pelayo's,  but  doubtful. 

Two  shields,  presents  of  the  Duke  of  Savoy 
to  Philip  III.,  in  1603. 

An  excellent  specimen  of  Toledan  blades, 
the  work  of  Cantcro,  1564. 

A  Toledan  blade  of  Ferdinand  V.  el  Catolico. 


268 


MADRID — ARMOUllY. 


A  sword  described  as  having  belonged  to 
Bernardo  del  Carpio. 

Sword  of  the  '  Gran  Capitan,'  a  magnificent 
Toledan  blade,  said  to  have  been  a  gift  of  the 
Catholic  kings  to  Gonzalo  de  Cordoba,  and 
now  used  as  the  sword  of  state,  upon  which 
the  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  Princes  of  Asturias 
is  solemnly  taken.  On  one  side  of  the  gilt 
pommel  is  represented  a  battle,  with  a  legend, 
allusive  to  the  hero's  victory  over  the  French 
at  Cannes;  and  on  the  other  an  inscription, 
calling  him  a  third  dictator,  stating  that '  Facta 
Italia?  pace,  Janum  clavsit,'  etc 

A  Valencian  sword  of  Isabel  the  Catholic, 
with  the  warlike  inscription,  '  Nunca  veo  paz 
comigo,'  and  '  Deseo  siempre  Gera.' 

A  German  sword  by  Solingen,  taken  at 
battle  of  Norlingen. 

A  double-handed  sword  of  Charles  V.,  made 
at  Zaragoza. 

Sword  of  Philip  II.,  the  work  of  the  Portu- 
guese Menchaca. 

A  fine  blade  of  Juan  Martinez,  of  Toledo. 

A  gem  of  the  palmy  days  of  the  Revival, 
and  a  masterpiece  of  Sebastian  Fernandez, 
of  Toledo.  Observe  everything  here ;  the 
busts,  the  medallion,  with  a  basso-relievo  re- 
presenting the  Judgment  of  Paris,  and  others ; 
the  genii,  satyrs,  etc  Its  length,  about  4  ft.  ; 
its  weight,  3  lb.  13  oz. 

La  Colada,  ascribed  to  the  Cid,  and  formerly 
to  Hernan  Cortes. 

A  sword  belonging  to  Don  Juan  of  Austria, 
made  at  Zaragoza. 

'  Montante '  of  Ferdinand  V.  el  Catolico, 
with  the  motto,  'Tanto  Monta;'  from  Zara- 
goza, and  of  the  sort  called  '  Al  mendrada.' 

An  admirable  copy  of  the  sword  of  Francis 
I.,  which  this  king  gave  up  when  taken 
prisoner  at  the  battle  of  Pavia,  and  which  is 
now  in  Paris  Musee  d'Artillerie  (839).  This 
copy  is  the  work  of  Sr.  Zuloaga. 

Sword  of  Francisco  Pizarro,  the  conqueror 
of  Peru. 

A  magnificent  sword,  the  one  usually  worn 
by  Philip  II.  The  blade  is  German ;  on  one 
side  is  the  inscription,  '  Pro  Fide  et  Patria,  pro 
Christo  et  Patria.  Inter  Anna  silent  Leges. 
Soli  Deo  Gloria;'  and  on  the  other,  'Pugna 
pro  Patria,  pro  Aris  et  Focis ;  nee  Temere,  nee 
Timide  ;  Fide  sed  cui  vide.' 

A  sword  of  Charles  V.,  brought  from  the 
monastery  of  Yuste,  after  the  emperor's  death  ; 
the  work  of  Juan  de  Toledo. 

Sword  of  Hernan  Cortes,  with  the  well-known 
mark  of  the  '  Perrillo.' 


Another  with  the  same  mark,  and  which 
belonged  to  the  celebrated  poet,  Garcilaso  de 
la  Vega ;  but  another  sword  of  his  (1916)  is 
more  interesting,  as  it  states  that  by  its  means 
the  poet  slew  a  Moor  on  the  field  of  battle. 
He  killed  a  Moor  who  had  railed  at  the  Virgin. 

Sword  of  Suero  de  Quiriones,  the  hero  of  the 
Paso  Honroso,  near  Leon. 

Armoun,  Saddles,  etc.  —  Half- suit,  be- 
longed to  Juan  de  Padilla,  head  of  the  Comua- 
eros.    From  Charles  V.'s  collection. 

Suits  of  armour  belonging  to  the  Infantes 
Felipe,  Carlos,  and  Ferdinand,  sons  of  Felipe 
III.,  and  Media  armadura  of  Felipe  II.  as  a 
child.  Both  figures  and  suits  of  all  this  collec- 
tion should  be  carefully  looked  at,  as  should 
also  the  thirty-five  suits  of  Charles  V.  close  at 
hand.  The  sedan  chairs  of  Charles  V.  were 
burnt  in  1884,  along  with  many  other  priceless 
relics. 

A  magnificent  pair  of  stirrups  of  Charles  III. 

Roman  equestrian  armour  of  Charles  V. 

The  war  saddle  of  James  I.  of  Aragon,  el 
Conquistador. 

War  saddle  ascribed  to  the  Cid. 

Armour  of  Charles  V.,  brought  from  Yuste. 

A  magnificent  Florentine  armour  of  the  Great 
Duke  of  Alba. 

Milanese  armour  of  Antonio  de  Leyva. 

Equestrian  armour  of  Hernan  Cortes. 

A  very  fine  armour,  which  belonged  to  Boab- 
dil,  the  ill-fated  Bey  Chico  de  Granada.  It 
proceeds  from  Charles  V.'s  collection. 

The  authentic  armour  worn  by  Christopher 
Columbus ;  it  weighs  41  lb. 

Complete  armour  of  Charles  V.,  in  which  he 
was  portrayed  by  Titian  (picture-gallery). 

Complete  armour  of  Philip  II.,  in  which  he 
was  portrayed  by  Titian  (picture-gallery,  769). 

A  Chinese  armour,  a  present  of  the  Emperor 
ofChina  to  Philip  II. 

Bronze  armour  used  in  Spain  towards  end  of 
15th  century.  They  are  a  modification  of  the 
Lombards,  serpentines,  of  earlier  times. 

Complete  armour  of  the  ill-fated  Don  Carlos, 
son  of  Philip  II. 

Armour  of  Don  Juan  de  Austria,  of  fine 
Milan  work. 

Equestrian  armour  of  Charles  V.,  in  which 
that  emperor  entered  the  city  of  Tunis;  it 
weighs  7  arrobas,  14  lb.  The  sword  is  a  fine 
Toledan  blade,  made  by  Juan  Martinez  el 
Viejo. 

A  Borgonota  helmet  of  Charles  V.  Observe 
the  admirably-executed  relievos  of  warriors  and 
centaurs,  and  gold  and  silver  damascened. 


MADRID — ARMOURY. 


269 


Litter  used  by  Charles  V.  in  campaign,  and 
when  gout  prevented  him  riding. 

Helmet  of  Philip  II.,  remarkable  for  the 
finely-executed  Revival  relievos  of  the  Italian 
school 

Equestrian  armour  of  Prince  Philibert  of 
Savoy. 

An  English  banner  taken  at  the  siege  of 
Carthagena  (IndiesX  with  the  motto  'nee 
aspera  terrent.' 

Armour  of  Charles  V.,  and  the  finest  here  of 
Italian  workmanship  (1539);  brought  from 
Yustc. 

A  helmet  and  shield  which  belonged  to 
Francis  I.,  and  were  found  with  his  other 
effects  at  the  battle  of  Pavia ;  but  they  were 
not  those  worn  by  him  on  the  day  of  the 
battle. 

Very  interesting  saddles,  with  pictures  on 
the  bows  ascribed  to  Perin  del  Vaga,  a  pupil  of 
Raphael  and  others. 

N.B. — Observe  the  fine  specimens  of  firearms 
in  armarios  5,  n,  and  12,  at  end  of  room ;  the 
beautiful  shield  (1379)  with  relievos  represent- 
ing scenes  from  the  1st  chapter  of  Petrarca's 
'Trionfo  d'Amore.'  The  magnificent  shield 
(557)  cuadro  15,  a  masterpiece  of  the  Milanese 
Nejroli.  The  firearms  of  the  Madrid  arcabu- 
ceros  are  worth  notice. 

A  barrel  of  an  escopeta,  the  work  of  Cristobal 
Trisleva,  and  which  was  loaded  by  the  breech 
—presented  by  Sr.  Zuloaga. 

A  sort  of  sceptre  found  in  the  ruins  of  Orfah 
Mesopotamia.  We  must  also  draw  the  atten- 
tion of  visitors  to  the  Visigoth  votive  crown. 

The  iron  inkstand  used  by  Charles  V.,  and 
brought  from  the  Escorial,  and  admirably  en- 
graven <*  Veau forte. 

Gold  votive  crown,  with  precious  stones  and 
a  cross  suspended  within  the  crown;  weighs 
46  onzas  and  5  adarmes.  The  inscription: — 
1  Svinthilanos  Rex  offerret.'  (Svinthilic  reigned 
621  to  631,  and  was  the  23d  Visigoth  monarch.) 

Gold  votive  crown  offered  by  Abbot  Theo- 
dosius ;  sapphires,  etc  ;  fine. 

Gold  Cross  offered  by  Bishop  Lucetius. 

The  rest  are  fragments  of  crowns,  an  emer- 
ald on  which  is  engraven  the  Annunciation  of 
the  Virgin ;  six  large  sapphires,  etc.  These 
crowns  were  worn,  and  then,  with  some  addi- 
tions, constituted  a  solemn  pious  offering  to 
some  church  on  a  particular  event,  and  the 
chains,  eta,  were  added  probably  to  suspend 
them  before  the  altar.  The  workmanship 
resembles  certain  ornaments  of  the  Merovin- 
gian period,  and  evinces  beauty  in   general 


design  and  richness,  being  of  great  value  as 
relics  of  the  Visigoth  age.  These  proceed 
from  a  field  near  the  small  village  of  La  Fuente 
de  Guarrazar,  near  Toledo ;  and  before  these, 
some  other  and  larger  insignia  of  the  same  age 
had  been  dug  up  by  chance  and  sold  to  the 
French  Government  for  100,000  fr.,  and  we  saw 
them  not  long  ago  at  the  Hotel  Cluny.  The 
Spanish  Government  claimed  them  back  on  the 
ground  of  their  being  national  regalia  and 
heirlooms  of  the  state,  but  they  have  not  been 
given  back.  A  severe  decree  ruling  treasure- 
trove  in  Spain  was  the  consequence.  For 
further  details  see  a  paper  written  by  Mr. 
Albert  Way  in  the  4  Archaeological  Journal,'  and 
a  notice  by  M.  du  Sommerard  in  the  '  Monde 
IllustreV  i860 ;  see  also  Mr.  F.  de  Lasteyrie's 
exhaustive  'Description  du  Tre*sor  de  Guer- 
razar,'  etc. ;  Paris,  i860.  Gold  crowns  were 
always  worn  by  the  Visigoth  kings.  We  read 
in  Conde  that  Moussa  ordered  about  400 
families  of  the  blood  royal  to  accompany  him 
to  Syria  as  hostages,  and  they  bore  round  their 
heads  diadems  of  gold,  and  girdles  of  the  same. 
Also,  in  Conde,  book  i.  chap.  12,  when  Tank 
was  lodged  in  the  Alcazar  of  the  Visigoth  kings 
at  Toledo,  it  is  mentioned  that '  in  a  secluded 
room  of  the  royal  palace  he  found  twenty-five 
gold  crowns  inlaid  with  hyacinths  and  other 
precious  stones,  for  it  was  the  custom  that, 
after  the  death  of  a  king,  his  crown  should  be 
laid  aside  here,  after  engraving  upon  it  his 
name,  age,  and  the  time  that  his  reign  had 
lasted/ 

Much  useful  information  can  be  ob- 
tained from  Riafio's  '  Industrial  Arts  in 
Spain*  (Chapman  and  Hall,  1879), 
where  lists  of  armourers'  names  are 
given. 

The  Artillery  Museum. — Founded  in 
1803.  This  museumwas  rebuilt  in  1890 
and  contains  a  valuable  collection  of 
weapons,  trophies,  models,  plans  in 
relief,  etc.  It  stands  on  the  site  of 
the  old  place  of  Buen  Retire,  near  the 
Bolsa  de  Comercio,  and  can  be  visited 
on  Tuesdays  and  Saturdays,  10  to  3. 
It  is  closed,  however,  on  public  holi- 
days. The  collection  is  well  arranged 
on  two  floors,  and  as  the  articles  are 
named  no  catalogue  is  needed  (small 
fee  to  attendant). 


270 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


The  following  objects  are  specially 
interesting :  On  the  ground  floor,  Room 
I.,  a  number  of  guns  taken  from  the 
Moorish,  Malay,  etc.,  pirates.  In 
Boom  II.,  models  of  the  Alcazar  of 
Segovia  and  relief  plan  of  Madrid  in 
1830.  In  Room  III.,  the  carriage  in 
which  General  Prim  was  assassinated, 
near  the  Teatro  de  Apolo,  in  1870 ;  also 
an  interesting  collection  of  cannon  and 
a  table  used  by  Charles  V.  at  Villa- 
viciosa,  when  landing  in  Spain. 

First  Floor :  Room  I.,  a  banner  and 
tent  of  Charles  V.;  a  Moorish  tent 
taken  in  1860  during  the  Morocco  war ; 
some  banners  and  models  of  fortifica- 
tions, etc.  Room  II.,  modern  royal 
portraits  and  a  gun  presented  by  Herr 
Krupp  to  King  Alfonso  XII.  Room 
III.,  weapons  of  natives  in  the  Spanish 
colonies ;  statue  of  a  Philippine  chief  of 
the  island  of  Mindanao  and  various 
pieces  of  armour.  Room  V.,  model  of 
a  Krupp  gun.  Rooms  VI.  and  VII., 
historical  collection  of  armour,  weapons, 
banners,  and  furniture.  Room  VIII.,  a 
fine  Moorish  sword ;  memorials  of  the 
'Martyrs  of  Liberty/  Luis  Daoiz  and 
Pedro  Velarde,  who  were  killed  on  the 
'  Dos  de  Mayo '  (1808)  in  the  attempt 
to  expel  the  French  from  Madrid. 

The  Museo  de  Historia  Natural  and 
the  Museo  Arqueoldgico  have  now  been 
housed  in  the  building  of  the  Biblio- 
teca  Nacional  (see  p.  288). 

The  Naval  Museum^  Plaza  de  los 
Ministerios,  opposite  the  royal  stables, 
can  be  visited  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays, 
10-3,  by  permit  from  the  Director. 
The  objects  are  labelled  and  need  no 
description.  A  good  idea  can  be 
gathered  here  of  the  progress  of  ship- 
building, from  the  caravels  of  Colum- 
bus's time  to  the  'Reina  Regente,' 
the  armoured  cruiser  lost  in  1895. 
Some  of  the  charts  and  portraits  are 
interesting,  as  are  also  the  relics  of 
celebrated  navigators. 


This  collection  of  naval  models  and 
paintings  was  begun  in  1843.  Rooms 
I.  and  II.  on  the  ground  floor,  and 
V.  and  VIII.  on  the  first  floor,  are 
especially  interesting. 

Royal  Picture-Gallery  {Real  Museo 
de  Pinturas). — It  is  situated  on  the 
Prado  ;  open  all  the  year  round,  except 
on  Mondays  and  rainy  days,  from  9  a.m. 
to  4  p.m.  Mondays,  open  from  1  p.m. 
Admission  free  on  Sundays,  from  10 
to  3  in  winter,  8  to  1  in  summer  ;  upon 
ordinary  days  a  fee  of  50  centimes 
for  the  benefit  of  the  Poor  Asylum  at 
Prado.  N.B. — It  is  closed  on  rainy 
days.  The  porter  is  very  civil,  and 
speaks  French.  To  make  copies,  apply 
to  the  Director,  Sr.  D.  Francisco  Pra- 
dilla,  Rosales,  20,  or  to  the  Secretary, 
D.  Luis  Alvarez,  Barquillo,  16.  State 
the  name  of  picture,  its  number,  etc. 
Copies  of  the  same  size  as  the  originals 
are  allowed.  Pictures  cannot  be  taken 
down  or  removed.  There  are  several  good 
copyists,  and  the  charges  are  moderate. 
The  Museo  owes  much  to  the  late 
Director  (Madrazo),  one  of  the  best 
modern  Spanish  artists,  and  an  enthusi- 
astic patron  of  art.  A  catalogue  in  two 
vols.,  with  an  abridgment  in  one  vol., 
price  4  pes.,  by  Don  Pedro  Madrazo, 
may  be  purchased  at  the  door.  From 
either  of  these  works  a  vast  amount  of 
useful  information  will  be  gained. 

The  edifice  is  large,  not  wanting  in 
majesty  and  grandeur,  but  too  low  for 
its  length.  It  was  the  work  of  Juan 
de  Villanueva,  and  was  built  in  1785 
for  Charles  III.,  who  intended  it  for  a 
Museum  of  Natural  History  and  an 
Academy  of  Sciences.  It  was  com- 
pleted in  the  reign  of  Charles  IV.,  but 
remained  unused  save  at  the  time  of 
the  French  occupation,  when  it  was  con- 
verted into  a  barrack.  Ferdinand  VII., 
at  the  request  of  his  queen,  Isabel  de 
Braganza,  who  cultivated  painting, 
caused  it  to  be  repaired  and  fitted  up 
for  a  picture-gallery,  and  in  Nov.  1819 


MADRID  PICTURE  GALLERY 


o 
P 


w 

p 


o 


PUBLIC  ENTRANCE 


Puhlishfid-V  A.&GBlack.  London. 
* 


Madrid — Picture-gallery. 


271 


three  saloons  were  thrown  open  to  the 
public,  which  contained  311  Spanish 
pictures.     In  1830  the  Flemish,  Dutch, 
Italian,  French,   and  German  schools 
were  completed;   and  in   1840  there 
was    added    a    large    collection     of 
paintings   from   the  Museo   Nacional 
de  la   Trinidad,   consisting  of   early 
Spanish  and  Flemish  works  removed 
from  the  convents,  etc.,  upon  their 
suppression,    in    1836.      The    lights, 
generally,  are  good  ;   but  the   spaces 
are  too  confined,   and  consequently, 
especially  in  the  long  gallery,  where 
the  great  Velasquez,   etc.,   works  are 
hung,  the  effect  is  sadly  lacking.    Fair 
photo  reproductions  of  the  paintings 
are  to  be  purchased  on  the  premises 
and  in  the  city  ;  but  since  the  closing 
of  Laurent's  gallery,  in  the  Carrera  San 
Geronimo,  these  are  not  so  good  as  they 
should  be. 

This  gallery  is  considered  the  finest 
in  the  world,  but  it  is  rather  a  collec- 
tion of  splendid  gems  than  a  complete 
chronological  series  of  schools.  It  is 
wanting  in  examples  of  the  early  Italian, 
and  of  the  German  and  French  masters, 
and  several  of  the  Valencian  and  Sevil- 
lian  schools  are  scantily,  if  at  all,  re- 
presented ;  but  it  is  exceedingly  rich 
in  the  productions  of  some  great  mas- 
-  ters,  and  few  galleries  can  boast  of  pos- 
sessing, like  this  one,  62  Rubens',  53 
Teniers,  10  Raphaels,  46  Murillos,  64 
Valazquez',  22  Van  Dycks,  43  Titians, 
34  Tintorettos,  25  Veroneses,  54  Breu- 
ghels,  23  Snyders,  19  Poussins,  10 
Wouvermans,  55  Giordanos,  58  Riberas, 
10  Claudes,  etc.  The  authenticity,  es- 
pecially of  the  most  important,  is 
doubtless,  as  they  proceeded  from  the 
palaces  of  Madrid,  Escorial,  El  Pardo, 
La  Granja,  for  which  most  were  painted 
expressly,  and  the  inventories  of  which 
designate  them  with  full  particulars. 
They  number  upwards  of  2000,  and  are 
the  property  of  the  crown.     The  re- 


pairs (restauraciones)  have  been  made 
with  care  and  intelligence,  saving  a  few 
exceptions,  and  most  of  the  principal 
pictures  have  been  spared,  especially 
Velazquez's.  According  to  the  new 
arrangements,  the  best  Spanish  and 
Italian  pictures  are  now  placed  in  the 
long  central  saloon,  and  a  few  of  the 
most  remarkable  masterpieces  have 
been  collected  in  a  special  circular  room, 
called  Salon  de  Isabel  II.,  somewhat 
like  the  Salon  Carre  of  the  Louvre,  the 
Tribuna  of  Florence,  and  that  of  Bo- 
logna. The  four  lateral  halls  contain  : 
the  two  nearest  the  entrance,  that  on 
the  right  Spanish  masters,  that  on  the 
left,  those  of  Italy ;  the  two  farthest 
consist  of  Flemish  and  Dutch  pictures. 
The  2d  Rotunda  exhibits  specimens  of 
French  and  German  masters.  In  the 
ground -floor  is  situated  the  reduced 
and  unimportant  collection  of  sculp- 
ture and  antiques,  and  the  interesting 
Goya  series ;  hut  the  re-arrangement 
of  the  Museo  is  so  constant  and  irritat- 
ing that  it  is  difficult  to  predicate  any 
year  where  the  works  will  be  located 
the  next  year.  The  following  descrip- 
tion can  only  be  offered  as  a  com- 
panion, not  as  a  guide. 

In  noticing  the  more  remarkable  pic- 
tures, we  follow  the  ordftr  in  which  the 
traveller  generally  visits  the  gallery — 
viz.  1.  Central  Long  Room  ;  2.  Sala  de 
Isabel  II.  ;  3.  Dutch  and  Flemish 
schools ;  4.  Spanish  and  Italian  schools 
(lateral  halls  to  entrance).  The  Salon 
de  Isabel  II.  has  lately  (1898)  been  re- 
constructed, and  in  the  fresh  collocation 
here  of  paintings  there  is  a  good  deal  of 
change  going  on ;  but  the  Salons  are  so 
small  that  visitors  will  have  no  diffi- 
culty in  finding  any  particular  work. 
For  a  concise  idea  of  the  chronological 
order  of  the  Spanish  masters,  etc,  we 
refer  our  readers  to  General  Infor- 
mation, Painting  and  Painters,  and  to 
the  works  of  reference  on  the  subject. 


272 


MADRID — PICTTTRE  GALLERY. 


NUMERICAL  INDEX, 

WITH  REFERENCES  TO  THE  PAGES  WHERE  THE 
PICTURES  ARE  DESCRIBED. 


NO. 


33 

39 

67 

135 

147 
148 

153 
207 

236 

259 
260 
261 
292 
32a 

323 
356 
364 

365 
366 

367 
368 

369 
370 
372 
383 
384 
390 
393 
396 
398 
410 

4»S 

436 
428 

45o 
45i 
456 
457 
458 

459 
460 

462 
466 
47i 
527 
533 
749 
750 
75i 
752 

753 
755 
758 
764 
767 
772 

773 
775 
787 
788 

789 
847 


PAGE. 


} 


} 


} 


280 

279 
283 

282 

280 

284 
272 
282 

279 

280 

283 
280 
284 

280 

277 
28o 

276 

277 

276 

280 

28l 

284 

279 
281 


■279 


282 


>-278 


279 
281 


?"273 


•272 


274 

284 

«73 


NO. 


848 

854 
855 

859 

864 

865 

866 
856 
868 
869 
871 
872 
878 
880 
886 
887 
888 

897 
956 

981 
982 

987 
989 
990 
000 
004 
on 
032 

033 
o35 
036 

o44 
o55 
058 

059 
060 

061 
062 
066 
067 
068 
069 
078 
091 
092 
096 

095 

098 

099 
100 

IOI 

109 

116 

120 

132 

133 

175 

176 

245 
274 
279 

304 


PAGE. 


273 


.274 


273 


-274 


•283 


.276 


NO. 


1305 
1316 
1322 

1325 

1327 
X328 

1329 

I330 
1320 

1335 
1336 

1338 
1398 
1484 
1488 
1487 
1504 
'545 
1558 
1561 

1565 
1566 
1581 

1585 
1586 

1587 
I590 
1591 
1592 
1604 
1605 
1606 
1609 
1610 
161 1 
1613 
1678 
1683 
X69X 
1694 
1695 
1720 

1733 
1738 

*739 
1743 
1747 

1752 

1754 
1818 

1832 

1834 
1835 
1987 
1988 
1989 
2040 
2043 
2056 
2083 
2084 
2124 
et  seq. 


PAGE. 


} 


284 
283 
281 
285 
284 
285 

281 


282 

1 286 

283 

282 


286 

285 

281 

285 
281 

285 

286 
285 
286 

285 

281 
285 
286 
285 
286 


M5 


J 


286 
£285 
282 


285 


} 

}284 
281 

}284 
281 

[284 

[287 


1.  Rotunda,  or  Entrance  Hall.^ 
Hero  are  placed  temporarily  one  or 
two  of  the  Salon  Isabel  II.  paintings, 
notably  Van  Dyck's  Treachery  of  Judas. 
Generally,  there  is  but  little  to  look  at 
Observe,  however,  the  four  large 
'tempera*  paintings  of  the  early 
Spanish  school :  The  Adoration  of  the 
Magi,  and  SS.  Peter  and  Paul.  These 
formed  the  shutters  of  the  organ  in 
the  church  of  Santo  Tomas  at  Avila. 
No.  787.  An  allegory  by  Mayno,  of 
whom  Lope  de  Vega  said  :  — '  Juan 
Bautista  Mayno  a  quien  el  arte  debe 
aquella  accion  que  las  figuras  mneve.' 
('  Laurel  de  Apolo.')  The  Duke  of  OJi- 
vares  stands  on  the  side  of  Philip  IV 

Long  Central  Room,— The  first  half, 
on  entering,  contains  Spanish,  and  the 
second  half  Italian  pictures.  The  first 
series  are  modern,  and  all  the  rest  early 
Spanish  and  Italian.  The  less  that  is  said 
about  the  'Escuelas  contemporaneas,'  of 
which  there  are  specimens  here,  the 
better.  Wo.  775.  Death  of  Viriatus, 
by  J.  Madrazo ;  all  the  others,  by  the 
academical  Bayeu,  Maella,  Aparicio, 
etc.,  belong  to  the  pseudo- classical 
French  style  of  the  First  Empire.  The 
Goya  studies  formerly  here  have  been 
removed  to  the  special  '  Goya '  rooms 
established  in  1896  on  the  ground  floor 
of  the  building  (see  page  286),  descend- 
ing by  the  stairs  leading  from  the 
southern  end  of  the  building.  The 
gems  of  the  Museo  calling  for  the  most 
careful  attention  are  as  follows  : — 


Ribera  (SpagnoleUo). 

No.  989.  Martyrdom  of  St.  Bartholo- 
mew. '  Powerful  drawing  and  colour- 
ing.' 

990.  Holy  Trinity.  'Painted  like 
Caravaggio ; '  '  exhibits  great  power,  but 
is  not  a  pleasing  composition.' 

981.  The  Magdalen. 


MADRID— PICTURE-GALLERY. 


273 


056,  etc.  A  series  of  scenes  from  the 
Lives  of  tho  Apostles. 
1011.  Profile  head  of  a  Sibyl. 
987.  Release  of  St.  Peter  from  prison. 

Juan  de  Juancs. 

No.  749.  St.  Stephen  preaching  the 
Gospel.  Very  rich  colouring;  very 
like  Perugino. 

750.  Ditto  (Sala  Is.  II.)  The  saint, 
standing  in  the  synagogue,  points  to  tho 
vision  painted  above,  exclaiming,  *  I  see 
the  heavens  opening,  and  the  Son  of 
Man  sitting  at  the  right  hand  of  God 
the  Father  !'  The  infuriated  Jews  are 
pouring  anathemas  upon  the  saint 

'The  treatment  and  technical  execution  of 
these  pictures  is  Italian  in  its  character  and 
very  fine.'  (Sir  Ed.  Head.)  '  A  truly  splendid 
painting  for  the  composition  as  well  as  colour- 
ing.'   (Hoskins.) 

755.  The  Lord's  Supper.  Considered 
by  some  as  superior  in  many  respects 
to  the  celebrated  Cena  of  Da  Vinci, 
but  is  more  like  Vasari's.  It  was  re- 
painted in  Paris  by  M.  Bonnemaison, 
and  is  one  of  Juanes'  masterpieces. 

764.  EcceHomo.  A  gilt  background; 
on  wood.  A  subject  often  treated  by 
this  master  ;  remarkably  line. 

751.  St.  Stephen  on  his  Way  to  Exe- 
cution. Another  of  the  series  of  scenes 
from  the  Life  and  Martyrdom  of  this 
saint.     (Nos.  749-753.) 

'  A  hard  but  fine  painting.  The  crowd  mock- 
ing the  saint,  admirable  for  expression,  draw- 
ing, and  colouring.  The  figure  of  the  saint, 
resigned  and  full  of  religion,  is  beyond  praise  ; 
his  feet  and  hands  most  carefully  painted,  and 
his  garments  equal  to  the  magic  draperies  of 
Paul  Veronese.'  (Hoskins.)  '  Studies  for  such 
scenes  must  have  been  common  in  Spain ; 
many  a  Dominican  might  have  sat  for  the 
Saul.'    (Sir  E.  Head.)    On  wood. 

753.  Burial  of  St.  Stephen.  'Coloured 
like  Sebastiano  del  Piombo. '  The  man 
dressed  in  black,  and  standing  on  the 
left,  ie  said  to  be  the  painter.  On 
wood. 


758.  Coronation  of  tho  Virgin  ;  oval ; 
on  wood. 

Morales. 

848.  Mater  Dolorosa.  One  of  his  best 
here ;  inferior,  according  to  Viardot,  to 
the  Circumcision. 

847.  Ecce  Homo.  An  excellent  ex- 
ample of  his  style. 

Murillo. 

880.  Conception.  Eatilo  vaporoso. 
'Very  exquisite.'  Preferred  by  some 
to  No.  878. 

872.  St.  Anna  Teaching  the  Virgin 
to  read.  'The  child  wants  beauty, 
but  the  saint  is  admirable.'  (Hoskins. ) 
'  The  draperies  are  in  imitation  of  Roe- 
las.'     (Ford.) 

884.  Divino  Pastor.  A  great  favour- 
ite. An  allegory  of  Christianity  seated 
among  the  mins  of  Paganism.  It  is  a 
pendant  to 

865.  St.  John  the  Baptist.  The  two 
above  paintings  are  charming  examples 
of  the  '  Ninos  de  Murillo  ;'  both  belong 
to  his  third  or  vaporoso  manner. 

854.  Holy  Family.  Commonly  called 
'del  pajaro,'  on  account  of  the  bird  in 
the  child's  hand.  'The  head  of  the 
Virgin  is  very  beautiful ;  but  the  ex- 
pression of  the  child  is  purely  human.' 
(S.  E.  Head.) 

'  On  ne  peut  voir  une  scene  familiere  mieux 
concue  ....  plus  de  grflce  dans  Ies  attitudes  ; 
plus  d'energie  dans  la  touche.'  (Viardot.)  A 
homely  scene  copied  from  an  Andalusian  cot- 
tage. Belongs  to  the  first  frio  style,  and  has 
been  repainted  at  Paris,  especially  the  face  of 
the  Virgin  and  the  dog. 

878.  Conception.  It  is  difficult  to 
say  whether  this  painting  is  superior 
or  not  to  that  of  the  same  subject, 
which  was  purchased  at  the  sale  of 
Marshal  Soult's  Gallery,  now  in  the 
Louvre.  Comte  de  Ris  (Musee  Royal 
de  Madrid)  prefers  the  latter,  as  pos- 
sessing more  harmony  of  composition, 
more  ideality,  etc.    It  is  a  great  favour- 


r 


274 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


ite  with  the  public,   and  constantly 

copied. 

4  Innocence  itself,  and  beautifully  painted ; 
how  rich  and  juicy  the  flesh,  how  full  of  pulp 
and  throbbing  life  !'  (Ford.)  '  There  is  more 
of  the  ideal  in  this  painting  than  is  usually 
found  in  the  works  of  Murillo.  The  style  is 
more  elevated.'  (Hoskins.)  It  is  less  repainted 
than  that  at  Paris. 

856.  Annunciation. 

1  Jamais,  si  je  ne  l'eusse  vue,  je  n'aurais  ima- 
ging qu'avec  les  teintes  d'une  palette  on  put 
imiter  a  ce  point  l'e*clat  d'une  lueur  miracu- 
leuse,  et  faire  jaillir  de  la  toile  des  rayons  de 
lumiere.  C'est  le  triompheducoloriste.'  (Viar- 
dot.)  The  Virgin's  cheek  is  said  to  be  repainted. 
Belongs  to  the  vaforoso  style. 

868.  Vision  of  St.  Bernard.  The 
figures  are  of  a  high  character. 

'This  again  shows  how  closely  Murillo  ob- 
served Roelas.  The  draperies  of  the  saiut 
have  been  repainted  ;  but  his  head  is  fine,  and 
the  sentiments  of  gratitude  and  veneration  are 
admirably  expressed.  The  concealing  the  feet 
of  the  Virgin  gives  her  figure  too  much  height.' 
(Ford.) 

869.  Vision  of  San  Ildefonso.  The 
Virgin  is  giving  the  casulla  (chasuble) 
to  the  saint,  who  was  Archbishop  of 
Toledo,  and  a  zealous  advocate  of  the 
dogma  of  the  Immaculate  Conception. 
The  woman  on  the  right  holding  a 
candle  is  probably  the  portrait  of  the 
'devota  de  la  Virgen '  who  ordered  this 
painting. 

886.  The  child  Christ  sleeping  upon 
the  cross. 

855.  Rebecca  at  the  Well.  Belongs 
to  the  second  or  calido  style  ;  somewhat 
hard  ;  bears  traces  of  the  influence  of 
Ribcra's  manner. 

'Les  quatre  femmes  place'es  aupres  de  la 
fontaine  a  droite,  et  vues  en  pleine  lumiere, 
ont  une  elonnante  vigueur.'    (Count  de  Ris.) 

887.  Head  of  St  John  the  Baptist. 

888.  Head  of  St.  Paul. 

Sanchez  Cocllo. 
1032.  A  Portrait.     Supposed  to  be 
that  of  the  crazy  son  of  Philip  II.,  Don 
Carlos,  the  hero  of  Schiller's  admirable 
drama. 


There  is  no  expression  of  idiocy  or  deficient 
intellect,  as  S.  E.  Head  justly  remarks,  but 
rather  of  a  serious  meditative  mind,  somewhat 
morose,  and  not  unlike  the  habitual  character 
of  Philip  II.'s  countenance. 

1033.  Portrait  of  the  Infanta  Clara 
Eugenia,  daughter  of  Philip  II.,  and 
wife  of  the  Archduke  Albert.  Observe 
the  details  of  the  dress,  jewels,  and 
general  colouring.  She  was  the  fa- 
vourite child  of  Philip. 

1035.  A  Portrait.  Supposed  to  be 
that  of  a  daughter  of  Philip  II. 

1036.  A  Portrait.  Probably  of  a 
sister  of  Philip  II. 

Mazo. 

788.  A  View  of  Zaragoza.  The 
figures  are  painted  by  Velazquez,  who 
was  his  father-in-law. 

Tobar. 

1044.  Portrait  of  Murillo.  Of  very 
great  interest  therefore.  Tobar  was  his 
best  pupil,  and  his  paintings  have  often 
been  mistaken  for  those  of  his  master. 

Zurbaran. 
1133.  The  Infant  Deity  asleep.   Very 
fine.    (This  and  1033  now,  1895,  in  Sala 
Is.  II.) 

Velazquez. 

1067.  Equestrian  portrait  of  Isabel  le 
de  Bourbon,  first  wife  of  Philip  IV. 
This  picture  has  been  repainted  in 
many  parts  by  Velazquez.  The  dress, 
though  pleasing  at  first  sight,  loses  of 
its  value  on  closer  examination.  It 
was  evidently  not  painted  by  him.  The 
queen's  fine  old  white  horse  is  his,  and 
in  the  bridle  one  can  even  see  the  parts 
which  he  was  obliged  to  alter  while 
painting  the  horse ;  they  are  quite 
different  from  the  upper  part  of  the 
same,  where  the  design  of  the  embroi- 
dery is  done  in  a  much  more  elaborate 
and  stiff  manner  than  that  of  the  dress. 
The  landscape  is  good  and  by  the  great 
master.      The  queen's  horse  is  white, 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


275 


and  old,  and  ambles  at  a  lady's  pace  ; 
the  cold  colour  of  the  steed  forms  a  fine 
contrast  to  the  pleasing-looking  queen's 
rich  brown  dress,  brocaded  with  gold, 
and  painted  with  the  skill  of  Paul 
Veronese. 

1068.  Prince  Don  Baltasar  Carlos 
riding  a  chestnut  'jaca.'  'The  child 
actually  gallops  out  of  the  frame,  and 
is  the  anticipation  of  Edwin  Landseer 
and  his  young  Highland  chieftains  on 
their  wild  ponies.'  (Ford.)  'There  is 
a  wonderful  spirit  and  life  about  this 
portrait.  (This  painting  is  now,  1895, 
to  be  found  in  the  Sala  Espanola.) 

1100.  jEsop.     Finely  painted. 

1101.  An  Old  Man,  called  Mcnipo. 
1060.  The  surrender  of  Breda  (Juno 

2,  1625)  by  the  governor  of  that  city, 
Justin  of  Nassau,  to  Spinola,  whose 
announcement  of  that  event  was  con- 
fined to  the  words,  '  Breda  Tornado. ' 
This  masterpiece  is  commonly  known 
as  'el  cuadro  de  las  lanzas,'  from  the 
number  of  the  lances  borne  by  the 
guards.  The  figure  and  expression  of 
the  figures  is  as  wonderful  as  the  tech- 
nical execution.  There  is  the  genuine 
courtesy  of  a  high-bred  soldier  in  the 
demeanour  of  the  conqueror  towards 
his  fallen  foe,  and  the  whole  composi- 
tion is  admirable.'  (Sir  E.  Head.) 
'  Quelle  harnionie  !  quelle  vigueur  dans 
les  premiers  plans!  quelle  degradation 
dans  le  paysage!'  (De  Ris.)  'Per- 
haps the  finest  picture  of  Velazquez ; 
never  were  knights,  soldiers,  or  national 
character  better  painted,  or  the  heavy 
Fleming,  the  intellectual  Italian,  and 
the  proud  Spaniard  more  nicely  marked, 
even  to  their  boots  and  breeches  ;  the 
lances  of  the  guards  actually  vibrate. 
Observe  the  contrast  of  the  light  blue 
delicate  page  with  the  dark  iron-clad 
General  Spinola.'  (Ford.)  Velazquez 
painted  his  own  beautiful,  manly  head 
in  the  corner,  with  a  plumed  hat.  In 
the  background  Breda  appears  in  the 


distance.  Compare  this  with  the  same 
subject  by  Leonardo,  No.  767.  There  is 
the  difference  between  genius  and  talent. 

1059.  (In  Sala  Espanola)  Vulcan's 
forge.  Apollo,  an  intimate  friend  of 
Vulcan,  good-naturedly  hastens  to  in- 
form him  of  his  wife's  (Venus)  repeated 
flirtations  with  Mars.  Observe  the 
expression  of  surprise  and  disgust  on 
the  god's  countenance,  and  that  of  the 
blacksmiths,  who  suddenly  stop  their 
work,  etc.  The  beauty  of  human  form 
makes  up  for  the  want  of  divinity  in 
the  two  gods. 

1062.  Las  Meninas,  literally  the 
female  minions  or  favourite  attendants  : 
the  old  Norman  meynal,  from  meignee, 
family. 

'  And  oft  times  him  to  solace 
Sir  Mirthe  commeth  into  this  place, 
And  eke  with  him  commeth  his  tneine." 
Chaucer,  R.  of  the  Rose. 

The  scene  represented  in  the  picture 
takes  place  in  the  artist's  studio,  while 
he  is  painting  Philip  IV.  and  his 
queen,  who  are  supposed  to  stand  where 
the  spectator  should  be,  so  as  to  be 
reflected  in  the  glass  ;  otherwise  the 
painter  would  only  see  the  backs  of  his 
models,  an  error  often  committed  (as 
by  Goya,  in  'The  Family  of  Charles 
IV.),  but  which  Velazquez  was  and 
could  not  be  guilty  of.  The  name 
this  picture  is  generally  known  by  has 
been  given  to  it  on  account  of  the  im- 
portant part  which  was  assigned  by  the 
artist  in  it  to  the  group  formed  by  the 
'mening,'  who  are  endeavouring  to 
amuse  the  Infanta  Margarita,  daughter 
of  Philip  IV.,  who  is  standing  in  the 
foreground,  and  in  the  centre 

'The  tone  of  colouring  is  sober  and  cool, 
perhaps  too  much  so.  (Sir  E.  Head.)  'A 
surprising  piece  of  handling ;  still  he  would 
gain,  and  indeed  does  gain,  when  he  glazes  his 
pictures/  (Wilkie.)  When  it  was  finished 
Velazquez  showed  it  to  his  royal  patxon,  and 
inquired  if  there  was  nothing  wanting  ?  '  One 
thing  only,'  answered   Philip,  and  taking  tho 


276 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


palette  from  his  hands,  he  painted  on  the  breast 
of  the  painter  represented  on  the  picture  the 
Cross  of  the  Order  of  Santiago,  the  most  dis- 
tinguished in  Spain.  On  Giordano's  arrival  at 
the  Court,  Charles  II.  showed  him  this  paint- 
ing :  '  Seiior,'  exclaimed  the  artist  rapturously, 
4  it  is  the  gospel  of  art '  {la  teologia  de  la 
Pintnra.) 

1095.  A  dwarf  seated  with  a  large 
book. 

1098.  Portrait  known  as  'El  nino 
de  Vallecas.' 

1099.  El  Bobo  de  Coria.  The  booby 
type  rendered  to  perfection,  truly 
Botfiapos,  as  heavy  as  an  ox. 

1096.  A  Dwarf.  '  Velazquez  is 
Teniers  on  a  large  scale.'     (Wilkie.) 

1066.  Philip  IV.  on  Horseback.  A 
magnificent  portrait.  It  served  as  a 
model  for  the  bronze  statue,  carved  by 
Monta&ez  and  cast  by  Pietro  Tacca  ; 
now  in  Plaza  de  Oriente.  '  The  horse 
is  alive,  and  knows  its  rider ;  how 
everything  tolls  upon  the  cool  blue  and 
green  in  the  background  !'    (Ford.) 

'Look  on  that  equestrian  portrait  of  his 
(Velazquez)  royal  friend,  Philip  IV.  ;  he  has 
placed  him  amid  a  denuded  landscape,  limited 
by  a  boundless  horizon,  lighted  up  on  all  sides 
by  the  sun  of  Spain,  without  a  shadow,  without 
any  chiaroscuro,  or  repoussoir,  of  any  sort 
....  and  yet,  behold  the  life  about  it  all ! ' 
(Viardot.) 

1069.  Portrait  of  the  Conde  Duque 
de  Olivares.  '  Nothing  can  be  finer 
than  the  effects  produced  by  the  chary 
use  of  gaudy  colour  in  this  picture,  but 
no  man  was  more  sparing  of  colour ;  he 
husbanded  his  whites  and  even  yellows, 
which  tell  up  like  gold  on  his  under- 
toned  backgrounds,  which  always  re- 
presented nature  with  the  intervention 
of  air.'    (Ford.) 

The  seat  is  awkwardly  forward,  and  the 
horse  seems  too  large  to  those  not  acquainted 
with  the  old  Spanish  breed.  Olivares  was 
Prime  Minister  and  favourite  privado  of  Philip 
IV.  We  have  seen  another  portrait  of  Oli- 
vares at  Dresden  (Picture  Gallery,  No.  109), 
holding  a  paper,  and  superior  to  this  one  in 
some  respects,  also  by  Velazquez.    This  other 


half  of  the  room  is  filled  up  with  the  best  Italian 
pictures  ;  ab  J  ove  principium. 

1109.  Landscape.  A  view  of  the 
Calle  (Avenue)  do  la  Reyna  in  the 
Gardens  of  Aranjuez.  Wilkie  re- 
marks :  'Velazquez  is  the  only  Spanish 
painter  who  seems  to  have  made  an 
attempt  in  landscape :  I  have  seen  some 
of  his,  most  original  and  daring.  Titian 
seems  to  be  his  model,  and  although  he 
lived  before  the  time  of  Claude  and 
Salvator  Rosa,  they  were  contempo- 
raries. (The  former  died  1682,  the 
latter  1673,  and  Velazquez  1660.)  He 
appears  to  have  combined  the  breadth 
and  picturesque  effect  for  which  those 
two  great  painters  were  so  remarkable.' 
This  view,  as  well  as  that  of  the  'Fuento 
del  Aranjuez,'  is  more  likely  to  be  by 
Mazo  than  by  Velazquez. 

1055.  The  Crucifixion  is,  in  our 
humble  opinion,  one  of  the  grandest 
conceptions  in  the  world.  Look  at  it 
once,  and  you  will  see  it  for  ever  after- 
wards. Oh  that  one  might  hear  Ros- 
sini's Stabat  Mater,  whilst  looking  upon 
that  sublime  vision  of  Sorrow  and  Hope! 

1116.  Boar -hunt  in  the  Pardo.  A 
clever  copy  of  the  original,  by  Goya, 
presented  by  Ferdinand  VII.  to  Lord 
Cowley,  and  purchased  by  Government 
for  £2200.  (Lord  Ashburton  possesses 
one  of  a  similar  subject.) 

Raphael. 

368.  Visit  of  St.  Elizabeth  to  the 
Virgin.  Painted  for  one  Marinus  Bran- 
conius,  and  signed  '  Raphael  Vrbinas 
F.'  It  was  taken  to  Paris  during  the 
Peninsular  War,  removed  there  from 
board  to  canvas,  a  process  by  which  it  has 
been  saved  from  total  ruin,  but  scarcely 
touched,  though  over  varnished. 

370.  Holy  Family,  de  la  Rosa.  Its 
authenticity  has  been  doubted,  but  the 
best  authorities  assert  it  peremptorily. 
1  On  y  reconnaft,  des  le  moindre  coup 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


277 


d'eeil,  1'iiiimitable  main  du  maitre.' 
( Viardok )  What  may  have  led  to  super- 
ficial suppositions  is  the  roseate  tint 
spread  all  over,  and  constituting  a  fa- 
deur,  seldom  met  in  that  great  master's 
pictures.  The  grouping,  outlines,  ex- 
pression, the  drawing  especially,  all 
render  this  a  magnificent  work.  The 
picture  is  named  from  the  rose  upon 
the  table  on  which  the  infant  Saviour 
rests  the  left  foot. 

366. — Christ  bearing  the  Cross,  or 
El  Pasmo  de  Sicilia.  Proceeds  from  the 
convent  of  Santa  Maria  dello  Spasimo 
(the  Virgin's  Trance,  on  the  way  to 
Mount  Calvary),  in  Palermo,  for  which 
it  was  painted.  It  represents  the  mo- 
ment when  Christ  sinks  under  the  weight 
of  the  cross  ;  Simon,  the  Cyrenian,  re- 
lieving Him.  Crowds  of  soldiers  and 
people  fill  up  the  scene,  which  extends 
from  the  gates  of  Jerusalem  to  the  sum- 
mit of  Calvary,  which  is  seen  in  the 
distance. 

'  And  there  followed  Him  a  great  company  of 
people,  and  of  women,  which  also  bewailed  and 
lamented  him.  But  Jesus  turning  unto  them 
said,  Daughters  of  Jerusalem,  weep  not  for  me, 
but  weep  for  yourselves,  and  for  your  children.' 
(St.  Luke  xxiii.) 

This  picture  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
world.  Some  place  it  next  to  the  Trans- 
figuration. It  is  superior  to  it,  says 
Viardot,  because  in  the  Spasimo  there 
is  unity  of  subject,  in  which  the  other 
lacks,  and  that  it  is  free  from  the  ana- 
chronisms so  noticeable  in  the  Trans- 
figuration. It  is  all  Raphael's,  for  in 
this  one  evenGiulio  Romano  had  not  the 
slightest  part.  The  great  master  seems 
*o  have  been  pleased  with  the  work,  and 
signed  it,  which  he  seldom  did.  There 
is,  besides,  vigour  in  the  expression ;  all 
is  more,  forcible ;  the  only  inferiority 
lies  perhaps  in  the  colouring.  Mr.  Ford 
and  others  erroneously  ascribe  its  brick- 
dusty,  hard  tone,  to  its  being  repainted 
at  Paris  and  a  second  time  at  Madrid 


in  1845.  The  colouring,  whatever  its 
beauties  and  defects,  is  now  such  as 
Raphael  laid  on. 

It  was  sent  to  Paris  in  1812,  removed  from 
boards  to  canvas  by  M.  Bonnemaison,  and  thus 
saved  from  ruin,  just  as  the  Holy  Family  of  the 
Louvre,  etc. ;  the  other  ruthless  operation, 
which  took  place  at  Madrid,  was  limited,  we 
believe,  to  varnishing.  An  excellent  copy  of  the 
Spasimo,  made  by  Juan  Carreao  (1614 — 1685), 
dating  about  1650,  and  now  in  the  third  room  of 
the  Royal  Academy  of  San  Fernando,  shows  the 
identical  brick -dusty,  hard  tone  of  the  original, 
which  was  carefully  copied.  According  to  Va- 
sari,  the  female  with  outstretched  arms  repre- 
sents the  Veronica ;  and  he  adds  that  she  is 
'stretching  out  her  hands  to  him,  holding  a 
napkin  (or  kerchief).'  which  latter  is  said  by 
some  to  have  been  effaced  in  an  injury  during 
the  adventurous  journey  that  it  had  to  undergo. 
The  ship  that  was  conveying  it  to  Palermo  was 
shipwrecked,  and  the  box  which  contained  it 
was  found  by  some  fishermen  on  the  shores  of 
the  Gulf  of  Genoa,  whence  it  was  sent  once 
more  to  Palermo,  and  finally  to  Spain.  The 
female,  said  by  Vasari  to  be  intended  for  the 
Veronica,  is  considered  to  have  been  meant  to 
represent  no  other  but  the  mother  of  God  ;  and 
as  to  the  supposed  napkin,  there  is  no  vestige 
left  on  the  canvas  that  can  authorise  such  a  sup- 
position. 

As  to  its  merits,  it  would  be  presump- 
tion to  criticise,  and  tedious  to  repeat 
the  raptures  into  which  all  lovers  of  the 
beautiful  have  fallen  before  this  great 
dramatic  scene. 

369.  (Now  in  Sala  Isabel  2a.)  Holy 
Family, called  'La  Perla,'  because  Philip 
IV.,  on  beholdiug  it  for  the  first  time, 
is  said  to  have  exclaimed,  *  This  is  the 
pearl  of  my  pictures  ! '  Others  assert 
that  its  name  comes  from  a  small  oyster 
placed  among  the  divine  bambino's 
playthings.  However  this  may  be, 
Philip,  a  great  connoisseur,  purchased 
it  with  many  other  gems  at  the  sale  of 
the  Crown  property  of  Charles  I.  by 
the  Puritans  ;  he  paid  for  it  £2000.  It 
was  painted  by  Raphael  whilst  in  Rome, 
for  the  Duke  Frederic  Gonzaga,  of  Man- 
tua. It  belongs  to  the  transition, 
second  manner  of  Raphael.  It  has  been 
over-cleaned,  and  the  colour  has  conse 


278 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


qaently  lost  much  of  its  depth.  The 
background  is  purposely  dark,  and  of  a 
rich  brown.  It  proceeds  from  the 
EscoriaL 

Titian. 

457.  Charles  V.  on  horseback.  'The 
finest  equestrian  picture  in  the  world ; 
it  is  more  sublime  and  poetical  than 
Velazquez,  yet  equally  true  to  life.' 
(Ford).  This  well-known  and  cele- 
brated portrait,  cited  by  Titian's  bio- 
graphers, is  one  of  his  grandest  histori- 
cal pages.  He  was  sent  several  times 
to  Augsburg  to  paint  the  portrait  of  the 
emperor,  and  no  statesman  or  historian 
ever  guessed  Charles's  genius  and  char- 
acter like  him.  This  picture  has  not 
suffered  by  restoration,  very  few  bits 
haying  been  retouched.  It  is  as  fine  as 
ever.  The  suit  of  armour  that  served 
as  a  model  is  kept  in  the  Armeria,  No, 
2308.  He  is  represented  here  as  he  rode 
before  his  army  at  the  battle  of  Muhlberg. 

471.  Allocution  of  Marques  del  Vasto 
to  his  troops.  Belonged  to  collection  of 
Charles  I.  of  England.  The  colouring 
is  beautiful ;  restorations  have  injured 
it  somewhat.  Compare  the  expression 
with  portrait  of  the  Marquis  by  Titian 
at  the  Louvre  (No.  470).  Alfonso 
d'Avalos,  Marchese  del'  Guasto,  was  a 
great  patron  of  the  poets  and  artists  of 
his  time  (born  1502  ;  died  1546).  He 
commanded  the  army  of  Charles  V.  in 
Italy,  and  lost  the  battle  of  Cerizola 
against  Francis  de  Bourbon,  Comte 
d'Enghien,  April  14,  1544. 

458.  Danae.  'A  sketch,  but  a  per- 
fect gem,  and  when  seen  from  a  cer- 
tain distance  it  is  living  flesh. '  (Ford. ) 
It  was  saved  with  a  few  other  nudities 
from  among  the  flames  of  an  auto-da-fe, 
kindled  expressly  for  the  destruction  by 
lire,  a  true  jtrcmfication  of  mythological 
peccant  pictures.  It  was  painted  in 
1552,  as  a  pendant  to  the  'Venus  and 
Adonis,'  and  was  a  replica  of  the  same 
subject  painted  by  Titian  in  Rome. 


450.  Woman  on  conch.  A  naked 
figure,  with  a  youth  playing  an  organ. 

460.  Woman  on  couch,  ditto.  The 
only  difference  between  these  two  is  that 
one  has  a  lap-dog,  and  the  other  a 
winged  boy  ;  an  amour.  They  are  very 
like  the  Venuses  in  the  Tribuna  at 
Florence, 

466.  Prometheus.  A  colossal  figure, 
a  pendant  to  Sisyphus.  Observe  an 
imitation  by  Ribera,  No.  1004,  and  note 
the  differences  of  style. 

456.  Adam  and  Eve.  Very  power- 
ful, but  not  pleasing.  It  was  Rubens' 
favourite.  When  this  Flemish  master 
came  to  Madrid  in  1628,  to  study  the 
colouring  of  the  Venetian  school,  he 
admired  this  picture  very  especially, 
and  made  of  it  a  very  careful  copy  (No. 
1613)  for  the  Prince  of  Wales  (Charles 
I.),  whose  admiration  for  Titian's  works 
was  so  great  that  Philip  IV.  made  him  a 
present  of  the  Venus  del  Pardo  (Jupiter 
and  Antiope),  which  Philip  III.  prized 
as  the  gem  of  his  wonderful  collection. 

462.  The  Gloria,   or  Apotheosis  of 
Charles  V.  and  Philip  II.     Above  and 
next  to  the  Holy  Trinity  stands  the 
Virgin ;  to  the  right,  Charles  V.  and 
Philip  II., — the  former  in  the  monk's 
frock,  which  bespeaks  San  Yuste  and 
Humility;   the  latter,  as  well  as  the 
two  Queens,  in  their  regal  robes.     It 
is,  according  to  some,  the  masterpiece 
of  Titian,  and  had  it  not  been  cruelly 
repainted,  might  perhaps  lay  claim  to 
the  position.      It  dates  about  1556, 
and  was  therefore  painted  when  the 
artist  was  eighty  years  old  ;  but  though 
the  contrary  is  often  asserted,  genius, 
like    wine,    ripens  with    age,    losing 
the  acidity  and  rawness  of  youth,  to 
acquire    mellowness,    strength,    soul, 
aroma.      The  finest  works  of  art  and 
letters  are  generally  the  last — the  set- 
ting suns  of  master  minds.      Observe 
everything  here  ;   the  'general  effect 
of   light    and    colour ;    the    ensemble 


r 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


279 


of  the  groups ;  the  Noah  and  Moses 
more  especially. '  The  colouring  is 
superb.  Charles  V.  ordered  by  will 
that  it  should  be  hung  over  his  tomb. 
It  was  removed  from  Yuste  to  the  Es- 
corial  by  order  of  Philip  II. 

P.  Veronese. 

527.  Christ  disputing  with  the  Doc- 
tors. '  They  found  him  in  the  temple 
sitting  in  the  midst  of  the  doctors,  both 
in  hearing  them  and  asking  them  ques- 
tions ;  and  all  that  heard  him  were 
astonished  at  his  understanding  and 
answers.'     (Lukeii. ) 

'Vaste  et  th&trale  composition,  recherche 
et  bon  gofit  des  ornemens,  justesse,  vivacite* 
charme  de  la  couleur ;  noblesse,  vartete"  et 
verite*  des  portraits.'  (Viardot.)  It  is  interest- 
ing to  compare  the  cast  of  the  countenances, 
dress,  etc.,  of  this  with  the  same  subject 
treated  by  Mr.  Holman  Hunt. 

Sebastian  del  Piombo. 
396.  Christ  in  Hades.  This  magni- 
ficent painting,  as  well  as  the  Holy 
Family  at  Naples,  and  the  Resurrection 
of  Lazarus  in  the  National  Gallery, 
London  (No.  1),  proceeds  from  the  Ar- 
gerstein  Collection.  This  is  considered 
superior  to  the  latter.  The  composi- 
tion has  more  life  :  the  dark  tone  is 
not  so  exaggerated,  and  the  perspective 
so  narrow  and  short. 

'The  colouring  is  powerful,  without  any  de- 
fect, and  worthy  altogether  of  Giorgione.' 
(Viardot.) 

Cfuido  Reni. 
259.  Madonna  of  the  Chair.  Pro- 
ceeds from  the  EscoriaL  It  is  one  of 
his  masterpieces  in  his  best  style,  and 
before  he  fell  into  that  invariable  pale, 
fade  mannerism,  which,  with  a  mono- 
tony of  attitude,  characterises  his  latter 
works.  This  is  M.  Viardot's- opinion, 
repeated  (as  usual  with  the  pictures  of 
this  gallery)  by  Mr.  Ford,  and  who  has 
done  little  else  than  follow  his  criticism 
and  translate  his  observations. 


261.  Santiago.  The  Tutelar  of 
Spain.  The  old  Spanish  war-cry  was 
'  Santiago  y  cierra  Espana  !' 

260.  St.  Sebastian.  '  They  are  both 
painted  in  the  forcible  style  of  Cara- 
vaggio,  but  with  a  keener  sense  of 
beauty  and  grace/  In  these  pictures 
'ho  hovers  between  the  Ribera  style, 
though  softened  by  the  study  of  Cor- 
reggio  and  Murillo's  calida  manner.' 
(Viardot.) 

A  replica  of  that  at  the  Louvre  (No.  332), 
and  purchased  by  Louis  XIV.  in  1670.  There 
are  several  in  different  galleries,  and  one  in 
that  of  the  Infante  Don  Sebastian,  at  Madrid. 

Tintoretto. 

425.  Moses  found. 

428.  La  Gloria.  It  is  the  sketch 
of  the  painting  which  is  seen  in  the 
council-room  of  the  Doge's  Palace  at 
Venice,  and  was  brought  from  Italy 
by  Velazquez  for  Philip  IV.  '  L'on  y 
trouve,  comme  dans  le  tableau,  cette 
fougue  imp^tueuso  et  irreflechie,  cet 
entrafnement,  cette  fievre  qui  fit  ap- 
peler  Tintoret  Le  Furieux.'    (Viardot.) 

There  is  a  sketch  of  same,  also  by  Tintoretto, 
at  the  Mocenigo  Palace  at  Venice.  It  has 
some  analogy  with  the  Paradise  at  the  Louvre 
(No.  351),  erroneously  considered  by  some  as 
another  sketch  of  the  San  Marco.  Grand 
painting. 

436.  Judith  and  Holophernes.  *  Very 
grand  and  most  effective.' 

410.  A  Sea-fight.  *  Great  energy, 
life,  and  movement ;  perhaps  a  little 
confused.'  (Viardot.)  It  has  been  re- 
painted. 

The  subject  is  a  m£Iee  between  Turks  and. 
Venetians  in  the  Archipelago ;  the  principal 
figure  is  that  of  a  young  female,  for  whose 
sake  the  fight  is  probably  taking  place.  The 
colouring  is  beautiful,  though  it  has  lost  of  its 
transparency. 

F.  Bassano. 

39.  The  Adoration  of  the  Kings. 

One    of    this    painter's   masterpieces. 

Brought  here  from  the  palace  of  the 

EscoriaL 


280 


MADRID   -  PICTURE  GALLERY. 


J.  Bctssano. 
23.   Noah's    Ark.      This    painting 
was  purchased  by  Titian  in  Italy,  and 
sent  to  Spain  by  order  of  Charles  V. 

Malombra. 
292.  The  Council  Room  at  Venice. 
The  Doge  is  sitting  in  state,  and  the 
Senate  is  assembled  for  the  reception  of 
a  foreign  ambassador.  All  the  figures 
are  portraits. 

It  has  been  till  very  lately  ascribed  to  Tinto- 
retto, and  was  well  worthy  of  him  ;  but,  ac- 
cording to  Ridolfi,  it  was  painted  by  Pietro 
Malombra  (1556-1618),  and  brought  to  Spain 
with  several  others  by  D.  Alfonso  La  Cueva, 
Spanish  ambassador  at  Venice. 

Domenichino. 

147.  St.  Jerome  in  the  Wilderness. 
Probably  a  pendant  to  the  Last  Com- 
munion of  St.  Jerome  at  the  Vatican. 

148.  Sacrifice  of  Abraham.  These 
with  149  are  the  three  examples  of  this 
Bolognese  painter  in  this  gallery.  The 
former  is  especially  fine.  Viardot  as- 
serts that  there  is  no  painting  of  this 
master  in  Spain. 

Palma  the  Younger. 
323-    A   mystic  subject,  being  the 
Spiritual  Betrothal   of  St.    Catherine 
with  the  Infant  Jesus. 

BALA  DE  ISABEL  II. 

Raphael. 
365.  Virgin  of  the  Fish,  or  Tobit  and 
the  Fish.  '  La  supreme  expression  de 
la  noblesse  et  do  la  majcsteV  (Viardot.) 
The  mother  of  God  is  seated  on  a 
throne,  holding  the  infant  Deity  in  her 
arms.  The  divine  Bambino,  with  a 
hand  placed  upon  a  book  which  St. 
Jerome  is  reading,  turns  towards  Tobit, 
who  is  led  by  St.  Raphael  (the  master's 
portrait  probably)  to  the  foot  of  the 
throne,  beforo  which  he  kneels.  The 
subject  is  considered  by  some  to  repre- 
sent the  admission  of  the  Book  of 
Tobit  as  a  canonical  book.  It  was 
written  about  two  centuries  B.C.  ;  the 


Rabbis  do  not  hold  it  to  have  bees 
divinely  inspired,  and  Christiana 
adopted  it  only  in  the  beginning  of  the 
16  th  century.  St  Jerome,  a  prominent 
figure  in  the  painting,  translated  it  for 
the  first  time  from  Chaldaic  into  Latin. 
This  picture  dates  1514. 

Viardot  is  of  opinion  that  it  is  one  of  the  first 
examples  of  the  master's  third  manner.  It  was 
painted  for  the  church  of  St.  Dominick  at 
Naples.  During  an  epidemic  which  affected 
the  sight  a  chapel  was  built  in  that  church,  un- 
der the  invocation  of  the  Virgin,  and  specially 
used  for  prayers  in  behalf  of  those  so  afflicted. 
It  was  upon  this  occasion,  and  for  this  chapel, 
that  Raphael  was  ordered  the  present  picture 
(15 15).  Such  is  Vasari's  explanation  of  the 
subject,  whilst  £.  David  gives  the  former  one. 
It  was  sent  to  Paris  about  1812,  and  removed 
from  board  to  canvas,  and  is  uninjured.  It 
is,  according  to  the  best  judges  in  the  matter, 
the  finest  Madonna  painting  by  Raphael,  next 
to  that  '  della  Seggiola '  at  the  Pitti  Palace. 

367.  Portrait  of  a  Cardinal,  sup- 
posed to  be  that  of  Cardinal  Julio  de 
Medici,  who  became  Pope  Clement 
VII.  in  1523. 

'Heureux  ceux  qui  peuvent  revivre  ainsi 
apres  trois  cent  cinquante  ansl'  (De  Ris.) 
There  is  a  semblance  of  life  in  those  blue, 
serious,  and  scrutinising  eyes,  so  full  of  intellect 
and  Heaven  ;  a  motion  in  the  compressed  lips ; 
blood  that  is  seen  circulating  freely  under  the 
skin,  so  much  air  around  it  and  individual  iden- 
tity that  are  absolutely  startling.  Biography 
when  written  by  such  men  as  Velazquez,  Raph- 
ael, Van  Dyck,  etc.,  is  truly  a  resurrection. 

Observe  also  No.  372  (in  the  Long 
Room),  another  fine  portrait,  said  to  be 
that  of  Andrea  Navagiero,  author  of  a 
1  Viaggio  in  Spagna,'  etc.,  and  ambas- 
sador of  Venice  to  Charles  V.  Painted 
towards  1516,  when  that  distinguished 
Venetian  was  35  years  old.  There  is 
much  doubt  as  to  the  authenticity  of 
the  portrait. 

364.  Holy  Family.  Bordering  on 
miniature  painting;  on  wood,  and 
therefore  somewhat  injured.  Claims 
loudly  for  removal  to  canvas  to  avoid 
imminent  ruin.  Great  finish  in  the 
figures ;  dates  1507 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


281 


Sebast.  del  Piombo. 

398.  Christ  bearing  the  Cross.  Half- 
figures,  from  the  Escorial,  where  it  hung 
in  the  choir ;  quite  worthy  of  that  Dante 
of  painting ;  a  vision  of  saintly  terror ; 
very  grand,  very  awful. 

Andrea  del  Sarto, 

383.  Portrait  of  the  Masters  wife, 
the  fair  and  frail  Lucrezia  del  Fede  (!), 
for  whose  sake  and  caprices  the  painter, 
enamoured  of  form  more  than  of  soul, 
forgot  and  forgave  everything,  so  that 
ne  might  be  allowed  to  gaze  upon  that 
beautiful  creature.  It  was  ill  restored 
in  1833. 

All  admirers  of  Alfred  de  M  asset  will  remem- 
ber his  drama  '  Andre"  del  Sarto,'  and  the  part 
this  woman  ('  Je  l'aimais  d'un  amour  inde*finis- 
sable  !')  plays  in  it. 

384.  Holy  Family.  There  are  two 
replicas  in  this  gallery,  though  the 
No.  390  has  been  ascribed  to  his  pupil 
Andrea  Squazzella.  There  is  another, 
we  believe,  in  M.  Bee's  collection  at 
Marseilles. 

P.  Veronese. 
533.  Moses  Found.  'Fin  et  char- 
mant  bijou,  qui  reunit  un  ingSnieux 
arrangement  et  un  dessin  correct  (?)  a 
la  plus  exquise  delicatesse  du  pinceau. ' 
(Viardot.)  'A  charming  gay  cabinet 
picture,  ascribed  by  some  to  Tintoretto. ' 

Claude  de  Lorraine. 

1989.  Sunset    A  landscape,  with  an 

anchorite   on    the    foreground.      The 

figure    is   by  Francesco  Allegrini  da 

Gubbio  ;  wild  scenery,  somewhat  dark. 

It  truly  is  '  a  place  of  prayer,  and  a  sort  of 
prison,  wherein  I  chained  my  miserable  body,' 
as  St.  Jerome  describes  one  of  those  secluded 
rocky  retreats  of  the  earliest  solitude-seeking 
Christians.  Almost  all  the  Claudes  here  are 
pendants,  and  of  value. 

N.  Poussin. 
2056.  A  Landscape.     On  the  fore- 
ground, to  left,  Diana  asleep,  watched 
by  a  satyr ;  on  the  right  an  Amour,  or 


messenger  of  Love,  is  busy  picking 
flowers.  (These  two  paintings,  with 
most  of  the  Claudes  and  the  Poussins, 
are  now  in  Rotunda  2.) 

Rembrandt. 
1544.  Queen  Arthemisa  about  to 
swallow  the  ashes  of  her  husband. 
Superb  ;  a  masterpiece  of  this  king  of 
chiaroscuro.  The  pseudo-oriental  cos- 
tume is  beautifully  painted.  It  is 
signed,  '1634— Rembrandt  f.'  It  is 
thought  to  represent  the  wife  of  the 
artist,  Saskia  Van  Uylemburg,  whom 
ho  married  June  22,  1634. 

Rubens. 

1558.  The  Brazen  Serpent.  It  is 
signed,  a  very  exceptional  case  with 
this  painter.  It  must  be  looked  upon 
as  one  of  his  masterpieces.  'And 
Moses  made  a  serpent  of  brass  and  put 
it  upon  a  pole,  and  it  came  to  pass  that 
if  a  serpent  had  bitten  any  man,  when 
he  beheld  the  serpent  of  brass  he  lived ' 
(Numb.  xxi.  6-9).  A  replica  in  the 
National  Gallery.  No.  1558  is  now 
(1895)  in  the  Dutch  and  Flemish 
Room. 

1606.  Portrait  of  Maria  de  Medici. 
Very  fine  ;  a  sketch  from  a  large  paint- 
ing in  the  gallery  of  Luxembourg. 

1565.  St.  George  and  the  Dragon. 

Van  Dyck. 

1330.  The  Earl  of  Bristol  and  the 
Painter.  The  former,  to  the  right, 
dressed  in  white ;  to  the  left,  the 
painter,  dressed  in  black.  Compare 
the  effect,  not  the  means  employed, 
produced  by  portraits  by  Velazquez, 
and  those  by  Van  Dyck. 

1322.  The  Countess  of  Oxford.  'Un 
des  plus  prodigieux  et  des  plus  ravis- 
sants  de  son  oeuvre  entiere.'  (Viardot) 
In  a  corner  of  the  painting  is  the  in- 
scription, '  The  Covntes  of  Oxford— A. 
Van  Dyck,  1638.' 

1320   Portrait  of  Libcrti,  an  Ant 


282 


MADKLD — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


werp  organist.  Probably  dates  ten 
years  before  he  painted  that  of  the 
Countess  of  Oxford,  and  was  executed 
during  his  residence  at  Antwerp. 

1335.  The  Treachery  of  Judas.  May 
be  considered  his  masterpiece.  The 
head  of  Christ  is  magnificent ;  ex- 
pressive of  deep  contempt  and  divine 
resignation.  The  colouring,  effect  of 
torchlight,  etc,  are  all  wonderful  In 
the  composition,  hypcrcritics  find  some 
confusion,  and  blame  the  threefold 
action. 

Van-der-Veyden.     (Beginning  of  16th 
century  ;  born  at  Brussels.) 

1818.  Descent  from  the  Cross.  Wood 
or  gilt  background  ;  very  fine  indeed. 

Correggio. 

135.  Holy  Family.  The  authenticity 
of  this  picture  has  been  doubted,  but 
with  less  reason  than  that  of  same 
master,  No.  133. 

Titian. 

236.  A  mystic  subject  An  exvoto, 
representing  St  Brigit  offering  flowers 
to  the  Infant  Deity,  placed  in  His 
mother's  arms,  whilst  Hulfus,  her 
husband,  stands  by  her  side,  clad  in 
armour.  The  very  best  judges  all  say 
it  is  a  Titian,  and  one  of  his  master- 
pieces. The  able  director,  Sr.  Madrazo, 
is  convinced,  among  others,  that  this 
magnificent  picture  is  by  him,  and  not 
by  Giorgione,  to  whom  it  has  been 
hitherto  ascribed  and  put  down  in  the 
catalogue. 

451.  Offering  to  Fecundity.  'Of 
marvellous,  incredible  execution ;  far 
outstrips  Albano,  the  poet  of  secrets 
and  love.  This  was  the  picture  which, 
when  at  Rome,  in  the  Ludovici  Palace, 
was  studied  and  so  often  copied  by 
Poussin,  and  contributed  to  improve 
his  colouring,  somewhat  cold  and  life- 
less at  that  time,  teaching  him  more- 


over how  to  paint  those  playful  children 
which  threw  such  charm  over  several 
of  his  compositions,  especially  on  that 
of  the  Bacchaual. '     (Yiardot ) 

450.  A  Bacchanal.  In  the  foreground 
the  fair  Ariadne  is  asleep,  having  been 
abandoned  in  the  Isle  of  Naxos  by  the 
faithless  Theseus.  Dances,  copious 
libations,  and  Teniers-like  detail,  fill 
up  the  picture.  On  a  height,  Silenus 
asleep,  and  in  the  distance  the  ship 
bearing  Theseus  is  seen  sailing  away. 
It  is  one  of  this  master's  finest  pictures. 

Moro.    (Anth.  Moor;  born  at  Utrecht, 

1512.) 

1484.  Queen  Mary  of  England,  the 
wife  of  Philip  II.  The  artist  was  sent 
to  England  to  take  the  likeness  of 
Bloody  Mary  for  Philip  II.  For  that 
of  the  queen  he  received  £100  and  a  gold 
ring,  besides  his  salary  of  £100. 

The  full-length  portraits  at  Woburn,  in  the 
possession  of  the  Duke  of  Bedford,  seem  likely 
to  be  originals,  from  which  the  present  half- 
length  portrait  would  be  a  copy  (may  be  by 
Moor  himself).  Waagen,  however,  doubts 
their  genuineness.  There  are  portraits  of 
Mary  by  Moor  at  Hampton  Court  and  at  Castle 
Howard. 

Zurbaran. 

1120.  St  Peter  Nolasco  asleep.  An 
angel  in  a  vision  points  to  him  the 
Heavenly  Jerusalem.  Very  fine  and 
a  masterpiece  of  the  'Spanish  Cara- 
vaggio.' 

Murillo. 

866.  The  Infant  Saviour  giving  to 
drink  out  of  a  shell  to  St  John,  a 
Shepherd-boy.  Known  as  '  Los  Ninos 
de  la  Concha.'  An  exquisite  painting, 
one  of  the  master's  finest. 

859.  Adoration  of  Shepherds.  'Per- 
fect. Observe  the  contrast  of  the  divine 
group  of  Jesus  and  His  mother  to  the 
strictly  human  one  of  the  shepherds 
led  by  an  angel  near  the  cradle.     In 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


283 


the  representation  of  these  clods,  of 
cheir  sheepskins,  of  their  dogs,  the 
artist  displays  a  power  and  truth  never 
equalled  before. '     (Viardot.) 

Velazquez. 
1058.  The  Drunkards  ('Los  Borra- 
chos').  'One  of  the  master's  finest 
works.  The  humour  and  feeling  arc 
only  surpassed  by  the  execution,  which, 
in  details,  such  as  the  bowl  of  wine,  is 
most  marvellous.  At  the  same  time, 
the  whole  picture  has  the  force  and 
breadth  of  Caravaggio  or  Ribera.'  (Sir 
E.  Head.)  Before  this  masterpiece, 
Wilkie/  who  studied  Velazquez  very 
especially,  used  to  sit  for  hours  in  silent 
and  every  day  more  intense  admiration. 
For  everything  is  perfect  in  this  mock 
coronation  of  a  drinker  by  his  drunken 
comrades — grouping,  expression,  col- 
ouring, intencion,  as  the  Spaniards  say. 

We  know  only  two  beings  worthy  of  appre- 
ciating all  the  merit  of  the  lanzas  and  the 
borrachos,  and  both  personify  two  sides  of  the 
Spanish  national  character — Don  Quixote, 
whose  eyes  on  seeing  the  former  would  flash 
with  pride  and  martial  ardour,  and  Sancho 
Panza,  whose  lips  would  smack  before  the 
latter — a  group,  and  scene,  and  art  after  his 
own  heart. 

1092.  Portrait ;  supposed  to  be  that 
of  a  jester  in  the  reign  of  Philip  IV. 

1091.  Portrait  of  MontafSes. 

1078.  The  Infanta  Margarita  Maria 
of  Austria,  daughter  of  Philip  IV.,  the 
same  which  we  see  in  the  Meninas. 

1061.  '  Las  Hilanderas '  (now  in 
long  central  room,  on  the  right).  Whilst 
in  the  foreground  several  women  are 
spinning,  and  otherwise  employed  in 
preparing  materials  for  making  tapestry, 
in  the  background  a  specimen  of  the 
manufacture  is  being  shown  to  ladies. 
The  subject  of  the  tapestry  is  the  'Rape 
of  Europa,'  from  the  painting  by  Titian, 
once  in  Senor  de  Jose  Madrazo's  valu- 
able collection,  from  which  it  passed  to 
Marquis  de  Salamanca's  gallery  now 
dispersed.     The  interior  represents  the 


celebrated  carpet  and  tapestry  manu* 
facture  of  Santa  Isabel,  established  at 
Madrid,  concerning  which,  and  Goya's 
cartoons,  see  Cruzada  Villamil's  'El 
Arte  en  Espafia.' 

Ribera. 
982.  Jacob's  Ladder.  One  of  His 
masterpieces  ;  in  his  transition  manner, 
hovering  between  Caravaggio  and  Cor- 
reggio.  The  sombre,  fiery,  powerful 
genius  of  that  true  painter  of  the  In- 
quisition and  anatomists,  is  seen  here 
in  all  its  character.  The  monk  at  the 
foot  of  the  ladder  is  a  semi-bandido, 
Spanish  mendicant.  The  type  is  com- 
mon, but  how  forcible  the  execution  ! 
how  wild  the  scenery  !  what  effects  of 
light  on  the  whole  ! 

A.  Dilrer. 
1318.  Portrait  of  himself,  signed 
1498,  Albrecht  Diirer  and  his  mono- 
gram, and  the  words  '  Diess  malt  ich 
nach  meine  Gestalt ;  ich  war  seeks  und 
zwanzig  jar  alt,'  and  was,  therefore, 
twenty-six  when  it  was  painted.  It 
has  been  engraved  by  him. 

Brorurino.     (Angelo  Allan.) 
87.  A  portrait. 

Holbein. 
1898.  A  portrait,  and  truly  one  of 
'Un  hombre  a  una  nariz  pegado,'  as 
Quevedo  has  it.     It  is  excellent. 

Palma  the  Elder.     (Beginning  of  16th 
century. ) 

322.  Adoration  of  Shepherds. 

Boom  on  right  of  Entrance  Hall. 

JRibera. 
1004.  Prometheus.  It  is  -flSschylus 
translated  on  canvas  by  a  Spanish  In- 
quisitor. Never  was  torture,  vmmortale 
secur,  physical  pain,  represented  with 
that  energy,  that  furia  of  colour,  and 
boldness  of  outlines. 

1000.  San  Roque  and  his  Dog. 


284 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


Murillo. 
871.  Conversion  of  St.  PauL     The 
thigh  of  the  Apostle  and  the  horse  have 
been  repainted. 

897.  Portrait  of  Father  Cabanillas, 
a  monk. 

Mazo. 

789.  Portrait  of  a  captain  in  the 
reign  of  Philip  IV. 

Zurbaran. 
1132.  Sta.  Casilda. 

Boom  on  left  of  Entrance  Hall. 

Salvador  Rosa, 
858.  View  of  the  Bay  and  City  of 
Salerno.  'Un  peu  de  paleur  dans  le 
ton  general. '  (Viardot.)  The  details 
of  eca,  land,  and  sky,  are  nevertheless 
handled  with  the  usual  mastery  of  that 
painter. 

Sassoferrato, 

393.  The  Infant  Deity  asleep  in  His 
mother's  arms. 

Rotunda  (French  and  German 
Schools).* 

N.  Poussin. 

2043.  Mount  Parnassus.  On  the 
foreground  the  Nymph  Castalia  and  her 
urn :  '  Drink  deep,  or  taste  not  the  Cas- 
talian  spring  ! '  In  the  distance  rises 
the  steep  hill,  on  which  Apollo  stands, 
welcoming  a  poet  whom  Thalia  and 
Calliope  are  crowning  with  laurel.  On 
one  side  Dante,  Petrarca,  Ariosto,  and 
other  Italian  poets  are  grouped  ;  on  the 
other  the  classics,  Homer  ('Questi  e 
Omero,  poeta  sovrano '),  Virgil,  Horace, 
etc.,  thus  placing  on  a  parallel  the  great 
ages  of  Pagan  and  Christian  Italy. 

2040.  A  landscape,  one  of  his  best 
here. 

*  The  passilloSy  or  corridors,  round  the  Ro- 
tunda are  filled  with  comparatively  indifferent 
pictures.  The  Flemish  and  Dutch  pictures 
here  are  of  very  great  importance,  and*  most 
numerous.  Their  genuineness  is  undoubted ; 
and  they  have  all  escaped  over -varnish,  re- 
painting, and  other  such-like  handling. 


Gaspar  Dughct. 

153.  A  very  fine  landscape,  with  cas- 
cades, view  of  a  city,  and  on  the  fore- 
ground the  Magdalene,  etc. 

Claude  de  Lorraine. 

1987.  A  Landscape,  the  Rising  Sun  ; 
subject,  the  female  Roman  Saint,  Paula, 
embarking  for  the  Holy  Land,  very  fine ; 
the  figures  by  Jacques  Courtois. 

1988.  A  Landscape,  Setting  Sun  ; 
subject,  Tobit  and  the  Angel.  The 
figures  by  J.  Courtois.  These  two,  with 
the  Moses  Found,  and  a  View  of  the 
Coliseum,  were  painted  for  the  King 
of  Spain,  and  the  sketches  were  preserved 
by  the  master  and  collected  carefully. 

This  collection  passed  from  the  Flink  collec- 
tion at  Rotterdam,  into  that  of  Devonshire 
House,  and  was  engraved  in  London  by  Earlom, 
in  1777.    The  Claudes  here  are  all  undefiled. 

Watteau. 

2083.  Une  FSte  ChampStre.  It  is 
the  original,  we  believe,  of  the  cele- 
brated 'Mariee  de  Village.' 

2084.  A  Fountain  in  the  Pare  de  St. 
Cloud. 

Lucas  Cranach. 

1304  and  1305.  Hunting  the  Deer. 
The  stout,  Falstaff-looking  Elector  of 
Saxony,  Frederick  III.,  is  a  prominent 
feature  in  the  scene.  In  the  distance 
on  a  height  rises  the  old  ducal  palace  of 
Wittemberg. 

Jerome  Bosch  (1450-1518). 

1175,  1176,  etc.  Adoration  of  the 
Magi,  and  Temptations  of  St.  Anthony 
(four  pictures,  now  in  Salones  de  Al- 
fonso XII. ) 

Boom  on  the  right  of  the  French 
and  German  Schools— {Flemish 
and  Dutch  Schools). 

Van  Dyck. 
1327.  Portrait  of  Henry,  Count  de 
Berg. 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


285 


1329.  A  Cavalier.     All  excellent. 

Snyder. 

1683.  JSsop's  Fable  of  the  Lion  and 
the  Mouse  (so  admirably  translated  by 
La  Fontaine). 

1691.  Quarrelsome  fowls.  Admirable. 

Breughel. 

1274, 1279.  Landscapes,  with  a  mar- 
keting and  junketing. 

1245.  Landscape  (with  St.  Eustace 
by  Rubens). 

Wov/oermans. 
1832.  Sportsmen  fording  a  River. 
Very  fine. 

1834.  Departure  from  an  Inn. 

1835.  Halt  at  a  Country  .Inn. 

Rubens. 

1566.  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  lends 
his  Horse  to  a  Priest,  who  is  bearing  the 
Host.  Rudolph's  head  and  attitude  are 
admirable.  The  landscape  is  by"Wildens. 

1611.  The  Garden  of  Love.  'An 
exquisite  composition,  remarkable,  as 
much  for  the  delicacy  and  warmth  of 
the  touch,  as  for  its  details.'  (V.)  A 
smaller  replica  at  the  Dresden  Gallery, 
probably  the  sketch  of  this  one.  (1611 
now  in  the  Sala  Isabel  II.) 

The  lady  accompanied  by  a  cavalier,  on  the 
left  and  on  the  foreground,  is  the  portrait  of 
Helene  Fourment,  the  painter's  second  wife ; 
the  types  belong  to  the  'fat,  fair,  and  forty' 
family,  especially  patronised  by  George  IV. 

1609.  Portrait  of  Thomas  Moras. 
Superb. 

1585.  Ceres  and  Pomona. 

1561.  Holy  Family.  There  is  a  copy 
of  this  picture  in  our  National  Gallery. 

Tenters. 

1752.  A  Landscape.   A  Gipsy  Scene. 

1733.  La  Graciosa  Fregatriz  (bur- 
nisher, scrubber,  as  in  the  celebrated 
verse,  '  en  una  de  fregar  cay6  caldera '). 
One  of  his  best  here. 


1754.  Temptations  of  St.  Anthony. 
A  favourite  subject  with  this  painter, 
and  with  the  usual  detail  of  an  egg  out 
of  which  a  pullet's  head  is  peeping ; 
but  his  Kermcsses  are  his  triumph. 
Observe  No.  1720  and  his  monkeys, 
las  monos  de  Teniers,  Nos.  1738,  1739, 
and  1743. 

(Notice  all  these  Temptations  of  St. 
Anthony,  and  scenes  from  rustic  life. 
They  are  all  finely  painted,  however 
repulsive  they  may  be  in  some  respects.) 

Snyder. 

1678-94,  and  95.  Very  fine  Dog 
and  Game  Subjects. 

P.  Neefs. 

1504,  etc.  Several  Gothic  Church 
Interiors.  Caviare  perhaps  to  the 
general,  but  very  fine  works. 

Van  Dyck. 

1328.  Portrait  of  a  Musician. 

1325.  Charles  I.  on  Horseback.  A 
replica  in  reduced  proportions  of  that 
at  Hampton  Court. 

Flemish  and  Dutch  Boom  to  Left 

Rubens. 

1604-5.  Portraitsof  Archduke  Albert 
and  his  wife  Isabel.  The  landscape  in 
both  is  by  Breughel. 

1581.  Banquet  of  Tereus.  Very 
powerful. 

1590.  The  Judgment  of  Paris.  A 
fine  study  of  flesh  painting. 

1610.  Portrait  of  a  French  Princess  ; 
probably  a  replica  of  that  at  the  Louvre, 
of  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Marie  de 
Medici,  who  was  married  to  Philip  IV. 
(1615).     Very  fine. 

1592.  Diana  and  Calisto.  Splendid 
colouring. 

1613.  Adam  and  Eve.  Copied  from 
Titian  for  Charles  I.  of  England.  (See 
No.  456  in  the  long  gallery). 

1586.  Nymphs  and  Satyrs 


286 


MADRID — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


1587.  Ditto.     Both  very  fine. 

1591.  The  Three  Graces.  The  models 
for  these,  and  many  of  his  nymphs  and 
other  female  subjects,  wore  not  Flemish, 
as  is  often  thought,  but  three  Italians 
— a  mother  and  her  two  daughters, 
named  Capaio,  who  lived  in  Paris,  Rue 
du  Verbois.  Such  at  least  is  Rubens' 
own  statement,  in  a  letter  published 
in  the  '  Archives  de  l'Art  Francois.' 

D.   Tenters. 

1747.  The  painter  showing  to  the 
Archduke  Leopold  William  the  picture 
gallery  which  he  had  formed  at  his 
order.  The  master  signed  'Pintor  de 
la  Camera  (for  Camara)  de  S.  A.  S.'  (Su 
Alteza  Serenisima).  It  is  curious  and 
important,  as  the  pictures  hung  on  the 
wall  are  all  well  known,  and  painted 
in  the  style  of  the  different  masters. 
Danae,  Calixtus,  etc.,  by  Titian  and 
others,  are  here  represented. 

Van  Dyck. 

1336.  Diana  and  Endymion. 

1338.  A  fine  portrait  of  the  Marquesa 
de  Legan6s  (Polixena  Spinola),  whose 
touching  letters  to  the  King,  craving 
his  royal  mercy  in  favour  of  her  hus- 
band in  exile,  we  have  had  occasion  to 
admire  in  a  large  collection  of  decrees, 
letters,  etc.,  to  and  from  Philip  IV., 
which  the  British  Museum  acquired 
from  us  in  1862. 

Antonio  Moro. 

1488.  Full-length  portrait  of  Maria, 
wife  of  Maximilian  II.,  daughter  of 
Charles  V. 

1487.  Maximilian  II.  when  young. 
(Observe  all  the  admirable  portraits  by 
Moro,  1483-1495.) 

The  Sala  de  Descanso  contains  few 
paintings  of  any  great  merit.  Observe 
the  two  fine  portraits  of  Charles  IV. 
and  his  Queen  Maria  Louisa  (riding 


astride  as  was  then  the  fashion)  by  Goya 
— that  racy,  truly  national,  original 
painter  of  modern  Spain.  There  are 
several  portraits  of  the  royal  family. 
Some  good  copies,  etc.  Notice  also,  as 
a  key  to  many  Cosas  de  Espafla,  a  series 
of  portraits  of  the  Bourbon  dynasty, 
beginning  with  Philip  V.  and  his  family, 
painted  by  Vanloo.  The  names  of  the 
personages  painted,  and  artists,  are 
given  on  each  picture. 

From  the  corridor  at  the  southern 
end  dividing  the  two  series,  German 
and  Dutch  cabinets,  a  staircase  leads 
upwards  to  an  insignificant  collection 
of  old  drawings  (but  some  good  Alonso 
Canos),  and  down  to  the  ground  floor  - 
to  the  new  '  Goya '  rooms  and  the 
Sculpture  Gallery.  The  Goyas  richly 
deserve  a  visit.  In  Rooms  I.  and  II. 
(to  the  right)  are  placed  the  designs 
made  for  the  Royal  Tapestry  Manufac- 
tory, also  some  characteristic  drawings 
of  a  similar  purpose.  In  Rooms  III. 
and  IV.  will  be  found  the  artist's  clever 
studies  for  his  large  picture  of  the 
Family  of  Charles  IV.,  his  portrait  of 
Bayeu,  his  own  portrait,  by  Lopez,  a 
Crucifixion,  the  Picador,  and  a  couple 
of  vigorous  paintings  commemorative 
of  the  rising  against  the  French  in 
May  1808  — No.  734,  Execution  of 
Spanish  Citizens,  and  No.  735,  Combat 
with  French  Mamelukes. 

The  Gallery  of  Sculpture,  a 
Rotunda  and  three  rooms,  contains  few 
remarkable  works.  In  the  Rotunda 
is  a  Group  of  Wrestlers,  in  porphyry, 
and  in  the  passage  hard  by  a  good 
copy,  in  bronze,  of  the  Borghese  Herm- 
aphrodite. Room  I.  is  chiefly  occupied 
by  Renaissance  work — medallions  of 
Charles  V.  and  his  wife,  Isabella  of 
Portugal ;  Pompeio  Leoni's  statues  of 
Charles  V.,  Philip  II.,  Isabella  of 
Portugal,  Maria  of  Austria,  in  bronze ; 
the  same  artist's  marble  statue  of 
Charles  V.  and  Isabella  ;  a  marble  bust 


MADRID — riCTURE-GALLERY. 


287 


of  Princess  Leonora,  sister  of  Charles 
V. ;  and  an  alabaster  bust  of  Philip  II. ; 
also  a  fine  group  (Charles  V.  conquering 
Tunis)  allegorical  of  the  triumph  of 
Virtue  over  Rage.  Room  II.  contains 
copies  from  the  antique  and  some 
Roman  armour.  The  'Sala  Ovalada,' 
below  the  Sala  de  Isabel  II.,  has  some 
remarkable  sculpture  brought  here 
from  La  Granja,  belonging  originally 
to  Queen  Christina  of  Sweden — the 
Muses,  Ganymede  and  the  Eagle,  a 
*  Cowering  Venus,'  four  reliefs  of 
Dancing  Bacchantes,  a  copy  of  the 
Greek  statue  of  Hypnos  (Sleep)  of  the 
4th  century,  and  some  busts. 

Pictures  removed  to  the  Museo  from 
the  suppressed  Museo  National  de  la 
Trinidad : — 

No.  2124.  Grccco.  Crucifixion.  Is 
supposed  to  have  belonged  to  the  In- 
quisition Church  at  Toledo. 

No.  2125.  O.  F.  Pcnni  (II  Fattore). 
A  very  fine  copy  of  Raphael's  Trans- 
figuration ;  ordered  by  Pope  Clement 
VII.  He  differs  in  some  points  from 
the  original  composition. 

Nos.  2126  to  2133.  Tiepolo— 18th 
century.  Scenes  from  the  Passion  of 
Our  Lord.  From  Convent  of  S.  Felipe 
Ncri. 

Nos.  2139  to  2148.  Berruguete  (a 
Spanish  painter  of  end  of  15th  cent.). 
Nine  pictures  representing  scenes  from 
the  annals  of  the  order  of  St.  Dominick ; 
ordered  by  the  celebrated  Inquisitor 
Torquemada.  From  Convent  of  St. 
Thomas  at  AvUa — curious. 

No.  2163.  Ooya — His  own  portrait. 
2166.  An  exorcised  '  creepy '  realism. 

No.  2184.  The  catholic  kings  pray- 
ing to  the  Blessed  Virgin  and  Child. 
Behind  King  Ferdinand  is  the  Inquisi- 
tor Torquemada.     Painted  about  1491. 

No.  2188.  Triumph  of  tho  Church 
over  the  Synagogue.  Ascribed  to  Jan 
Van  Eyck  by  Cavalcaselle,  and  to  H. 
Van  Eyck  by  Passavant. 


No.  2189.  R.  Van  der  Weyden,  the 
Crucifixion.  A  very  fine  and  most 
authentic  original.  From  Convent  de 
los  Angeles  at  Madrid. 

REAL  ACADEMIA  DE  BELLAS 
ARTES. 

This  collection  of  pictures,  etc., 
founded  in  1752  as  the  Academia  de 
Nobles  Artes  de  San  Fernando,  is  situ- 
ated in  the  Calle  Alcala,  No.  11,  and  is 
open  daily,  10-12,  2-4  (papeleta,  fee 
£-1  pes.).  The  contents  are  mostly  un- 
important, but  there  are  some  gems  : 

Bias  del  Prado. — A  fine  *  Fundacion' 
of  N.  S.  de  Loreto. 

Bibera. — St.  Jerome.  Very  power- 
fully painted. 

Zurbaran. — Four  Monks.  Some- 
what dark ;  the  cast  of  the  draperies 
admirable. 

Murillo. — The  celebrated  Tinoso, 
which  represents  St.  Elizabeth,  Queen  of 
Hungary,  healing  the  lepers.  *  Nothing 
can  be  conceived  more  beautiful  and 
more  dignified  than  the  figure  of  St. 
Elizabeth  herself,  and  these  qualities  in 
her  figure  are  brought  out  in  full  force 
by  the  contrast  with  the  diseased  beg- 
gars grouped  round  her,  and  painted 
with  such  wonderful  truth  as  to  be 
almost  disgusting.  *     (Head. ) 

It  was  painted  by  Murillo  for  the 
Hospital  de  la  Caridad  at  Seville,  and 
for  it,  together  with  the  San  Juan  de 
Dios,  the  sum  of  16,840r.  was  paid. 
It  was  carried  to  Paris  by  Marshal 
Soult,  and  subsequently  given  back  to 
government,  who  refused  to  return  it 
to  the  hospital  at  Seville,  to  which  it 
really  belongs.  It  was  very  ably  copied 
a  few  years  back  by  Queen  Isabel. 

Observe  also  very  especially  the  two 
medios  puntos,  or  semicircular  paint- 
ings, by  Murillo,  representing  two  epi- 
sodes of  the  legendary  dream  of  the 
Roman  Patrician,  who  founded  in  con- 
sequence the  church  of  Sta.  Maria 
Maggiore,  at  Rome.     They  are  in  the 


288 


MADRID — PRIVATE   PICTURE-GALLERIES. 


vaporoso,  or  third  manncT,  and  though 
much  cleaned  and  painted  over— dis- 
figured, too,  hy  the  French  additions 
lit  the  angles — may  still  be  regarded  as 
among  Murillo's  finest  examples.  The 
better  of  the  two  is  the  Dream,  with 
its  admirable  setting  forth  of  the  idea 
of  sleep,  and  all  its  exquisitely  painted 
detail.  The  patrician  and  his  wife  are 
represented  as  thrown  into  a  deep  sleep, 
while  engaged  in  some  pious  exercise. 
The  Virgin  then  appears,  and  points 
out  to  the  dreamer  where  he  is  to  build 
the  future  church.  In  the  companion 
picture,  which  represents  the  narrating 
of  the  Vision  to  the  Pope,  the  distant 
procession  should  be  noted.  These 
paintings  were  carried  off  to  Paris  by 
Soult,  from  the  church  of  Santa  Maria 
la  Blanca  at  Sevilla,  and  brought  back 
along  with  the  still  finer  CE1  Ti&oso,' 
already  described. 

There  may  be  noticed  here,  too,  in 
passing,  a  very  fine  copy  of  Raphael's 
'  Spasimo  di  Sicilia  ; '  a  characteristic 
Piedad  by  Morales ;  a  Crucifixion  by 
Alonso  Cano,  and  a  Susanna  by  Rubens. 
Perhaps  better  worth  study  than  any 
of  these  are  several  charming  Goyas — 
a  Procession,  a  Bull-fight,  a  3faja,  etc., 
and  the  recumbent  figure  supposed  to 
have  been  the  Duchess  of  Alba. 

The  position  of  many  of  these  paint- 
ings is  continually  altered  ;  but  all  is 
in  such  small  compass  that  they  may 
be  readily  singled  out. 

BIBLIOTECA  Y  MUSEOS 
NACIONALES. 

After  the  Museo  del  Prado,  the  most  note- 
worthy object  of  visit  in  Madrid  is  the  splendid 
Palacio  de  la  Biblioteca,  wherein  are  housed 
(i)  The  National  Library ;  (2)  the  Archaeo- 
logical Museum ;  (3)  the  Natural  History 
Museum ;  (4)  the  National  Collection  of  Modern 
Paintings  ;  (5)  the  National  Archives.  Of  these 
the  Museo  ArqueolSgico  is  the  most  important. 
The  building  is  situated    on    the    Paseo   de 


Recoletos,  with  entrances  from  the  Paseo  and 
in  the  Calle  de  Serrano. 

The  Biblioteca  Nacional  (entrance  from  the 
Paseo)  is  open,  free,  from  10  to  4  o'clock  (closed 
on  Sundays  and  holy  days).  Originally  founded 
by  Philip  V.,  in  1744,  it  has  grown  slowly 
(notably  increased  in  1886,  by  the  purchase  of 
the  Duke  of  Osuna's  MSS.)  until  it  now 
occupies  thirty -five  rooms,  and  boasts  of  up- 
wards of  a  million  volumes  (2000  'incunables' 
and  800  editions  of  Don  Quixote).  It  is  chiefly 
rich  in  Spanish  work,  and  the  noble  reading- 
room  is  generally  empty.  The  MSS.  are  of 
especial  value,  fine  specimens  being  shown  in 
cases.  The  MSS.  of  the  nth  and  12th  centuries 
('Beatos')  and  the  illuminated  missals  of  the 
14th  and  15th  centuries  are  interesting.  The 
Archivo  National,  on  the  first  floor,  contains 
a  number  of  documents  from  the  suppressed 
monasteries,  and  a  Codex  of  Justinian  of  the 
13th  century,  etc. 

The  Museo  Arqueoldgico  (entrance  in  the  C. 
de  Serrano,  free,  but  small  fees  to  attendants) 
is  open  7  to  1  in  summer,  n  to  5  in  winter,  9  to  12 
on  Sundays,  closed  on  holy  days  and  festivals. 

Ground  Floor. — N.  Wing :  Prehistoric  and 
Ante-Christian  Antiquities.  Room  I. :  early 
Iberian  articles  in  esparto  grass  from  the 
Cueva  de  los  Murcielagos,  Albunol,  Granada, 
stalactites,  ceramic  vases,  a  dolmen  from  the 
Abamia  valley,  a  section  of  Quaternary  ground 
from  S.  Isidro,  Madrid.  Room  II. :  Oriental, 
Egyptian,.  Coptic,  etc.,  antiquities,  fine  sar- 
cophagi, mummies,  papyrus  tablets,  personal 
adornments,  skulls,  bones,  etc. ,  and  some  Coptic 
fabrics  of  centuries  4-8.  Room  III. :  Graeco- 
Phoenician  objects  found  in  the  Cerro  de  los 
Santos,  Yecla,  Albacete ;  a  sphinx  from  Balarde ; 
a  series  of  wonderful  heads  and  figures  in  sand- 
stone ;  by  window  wall  and  on  tables  agri- 
cultural implements,  spear-heads,  etc.  ;  in  front 
of  windows  three  Toros  de  Guisando  (near 
Avila),  and  in  glass  cases  archaistic  bulls'  heads 
in  bronze,  from  Mallorca,  some  interesting  gold 
ornaments,  early  Iberian  earthenware,  bronze 
idols,  etc.  Room  IV.  :  Roman  and  Etruscan 
sculptures  and  bronze  vessels;  on  the  right, 
close  to  the  centre  window,  bronze  tables 
(Roman)  from  Osuna,  containing  portions  of 
the  statutes  given  by  Julius  Caesar  to  the 
colony  of  Genetira  Julia ;  bronze  figures  of 
Minerva  ;  a  bronze  tablet  from  Italica.  Room 
V.  :  series  of  splendid  vases,  Etruscan,  Corin- 
thian and  Attic ;  in  middle  case,  Attic  lecythi 
(oil-flasks)  of  4th  century;  Greek  dish  of  same 
period,  representing  legend  of  Theseus  dragging 
the  Minotaur  to  Minerva.  Here  we  descend 
into  a  court  (the  North  Court)  where  are  Greek 
and    Roman    antiquities  —  ten    mosaics    from 


MADRID— LIBRARIES. 


289 


Herculaneum, '  cinerary  urns,  mural  inscrip- 
tions, Greek  well-head  (marble),  fine  figure  of 
Julia,  wife  of  Septimus  Severus,  model  of  the 
Saguntum  theatre  as  it  was  in  1796,  and  several 
fine  capitals.  Up  the  steps  from  here  are 
Rooms  vi.  and  vii.  consisting  chiefly  of  objects 
from  the  collection  of  the  Marquis  de  Salamanca 
— amphorae,  terra-cotta  sculptures,  old  glass, 
etc.  Passing,  now,  the  central  court,  we  enter 
the— 

South  Wing,  containing  the  early  Christian 
and  Moorish  objects  and  the  modern  collections. 
Note  in  Room  i.  some  fine  Romanesque  caps 
and  architectural  remains,  an  nth  century  font 
and  some  inscriptions.  Room  ii.  contains  a 
series  of  sarcophagi,  tombstones  and  figures— 
Peter  the  Cruel,  Dona  Costanza  de  Castilla 
(alabaster) — also  a  collection  of  locks,  keys, 
and  plates.  Descending  now  to  the  South 
Court,  we  find  a  long  array  of  Moorish  and 
Mudejar  remains,  all  carefully  labelled,  also 
two  astrolabes,  the  keys  of  Oran,  a  Moorish 
hanging  lamp,  a  vase  similar  in  style  to  the 
great  Alhambra  vase,  a  marble  well-head,  and 
a.pila  de  abluciones  of  the  10th  century.  In 
Room  Hi.  are  placed  the  fine  choir-stalls  from 
the  Convent  of  £1  Paular  (Segovia),  carved 
chests  of  the  15th  cent.,  and  a  number  of 
ecclesiastical  vestments.  Room  iv.  contains 
several  16th  cent,  astrolabes,  an  altar  in  terra- 
cotta after  Delia  Robbia,  another  with  scenes 
from  the  Passion  enamelled  in  copper,  an  ivory 
crucifix  '  Ferdinandus  Rex,'  a  litter  of  the  18th 
cent.,  some  fine  coffers  (16-17  cents.),  a  locked 
case  of  splendid  jewels  from  Toledo  and  Elche, 
etc.  Rooms  v.  and  vi.  show  specimens  of  later 
work — porcelain  from  the  Buen  Re  tiro  and 
Moncloa;  Sevres,  Dresden  and  Wedgewood 
china,  and,  on  the  walls  of  No.  v.  some 
splendid  tapestry  of  the  17th  cent,  with  animals 
and  plants  in  relief;  also  a  Portuguese  bed,  a 
series  of  ecclesiastical  vestments,  and  costumes 
on  lay  figures  A  la  Goya. 

The  Ethnographical  Museum  is  on  the  first 
floor,  ascending  from  these  modern  rooms  of 
the  archaeological  collection.  Here,  in  the 
North  Wing-arc:  Room  i.,  some  reproductions 
of  Mexican  etc  sculptures  (see  especially  the 
'Aztec  Calendar  stone'  and  tables  from  Sta. 
Lucia,  Guatemala,  also  the  curious  gods). 
Room  ii.  contains  Taino  (an  extinct  race  of  the 
Antilles)  antiquities,  also  objects  from  Quito, 
Nicaragua,  etc.  See  especially  an  Aztec 
sacrificial  stone,  in  the  centre  of  the  room, 
commemorative  of  the  victories  of  one  Tizoc,  a 
Mexican  chief.  In  Rooms  iii.  and  iv.  are 
Peruvian  antiquities  —  woven  garments,  clay 
vessels,  idols,  feather  shields,  etc.,  also,  in  the 
middle  of  the  room  two  famous  Maya  MSS. 

U 


(Codice  Troano,  Codice  Cortesiano)  and  the 
collection  of  gold  objects  brought  from  Columbia 
in  189a  and  known  as  the  Tesoro  de  lot 
Quimbayas.  Room  v.  gives  us  a  series  of 
curiosities  from  Patagonia,  Peru,  Ecuador  and 
North  America,  including  a  set  of  Mexican 
figures  and  a  curious  boat,  and  Room  vi.  a 
quantity  of  modern  Peruvian  terra-cotta  ware. 
Room  vii.  is  in  the  South  Wing,  and  contains 
a  collection  of  Turkish,  Persian,  and  Indian 
objects,  also  some  Chinese  statues,  and  a  head 
of  Buddha,  from  the  temple  of  Boro-Budor  in 
Java.  There  are  more  Chinese  articles  in 
Room  viii.,  garments,  porcelain,  some  very 
fine  blue  vases,  and  ivory  and  bronze  work. 
Room  ix.  contains  a  collection  from  the  Philip- 
pine Islands  and  the  Malay  Archipelago ;  also 
some  curious  feather  cloaks  from  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  In  Rooms  x.  and  xi.  are  located  the 
splendid  collection  of  gems,  cameos,  and  coins 
from  the  old  Museo  Arqueol6gico,  a  right  royal 
series  of  some  200,000  objects,  many  of  great 
value.  Note  especially  a  black  onyx  with  a 
woman's  portrait,  the  cameos  and  the  early 
Spanish  and  Greek  coins. 

The  Museo  de  Arte  Modemo  is 
situated  on  the  first  floor  of  the 
Biblioteoa,  entrance  from  the  Paseo  de 
Recoletos.  This  collection  is  not  yet 
(1898)  arranged,  but  can  be  visited  by 
bribing  an  attendant,  or  by  apply- 
ing to  the  Director,  Sr.  Madrazo,  23 
Zorilla.  It  consists  of  a  fine  series  of 
modern  paintings  and  various  sculp- 
tures, the  whole  installed  in  seven 
rooms.  The  sculptures  are  mostly  in- 
different, by  the  Spanish  artists  J. 
Alvarez,  J.  Gin6s,  F.  Moratilla,  L. 
Piquer,  etc.,  with  a  few  pieces  by 
Canova,  Gros,  Tadolini,  and  other 
foreigners.  The  most  noticeable  are, 
an  allegorical  group  of  the  defence  of 
Zaragoza  by  Palafox  (Alvarez),  a 
'Venus  and  Cupid*  by  Gin&s,  'Mars 
and  Venus'  by  Canova,  a  Venus  by 
Tantardini,  F.  Moratilla's  'Faith, 
Hope  and  Charity,'  and  a  San  Juan 
de  Dios  by  E.  Martin.  The  paintings, 
which  are  carefully  labelled,  deserve 
more  attention,  and  well  represent  the 
work  of  F.  Madrazo,  Vicente  Lopez, 
Mercad6,  F.  Pradilla,  F.  Domingo,  J. 


290 


MADRID — LIBRARIES. 


Casado,  Lenbach,  Rosa  Bonheur,  Alma 
Tadema,  A.  B.  Gil,  and  a  host  of 
other  men  of  worth. 

The  Natural  History  Museum  is  on 
the  ground  floor  of  the  N.  portion  of 
the  great  building,  entrance  from  the 
Paseo  de  Recoletos,  and  contains  the 
fine  collection  brought  here  from  the 
Calle  Alcala— mammalia,  fishes,  birds, 
minerals,  fossils.  See  especially  the 
unique  fossil  of  the  megatherium, 
found  in  1789  near  Buenos  Ayres,  in 
the  river  Lujan,  the  collection  of 
Spanish  marbles  and  metals,  the  huge 
loadstone  (piedra  imdn)  weighing  6  lbs. 
and  supporting  60,  a  whale's  skull 
with  jawbones,  etc. 

There  are  many  public  and  semi- 
public  libraries  in  Madrid  worth  notic- 
ing. Among  these  are  :  the  Biblioteca 
de  San  Isidro,  adjoining  the  church  of 
that  name  (80,000  vols.) ;  the  Biblio- 
teca de  la  Universidad,  Calle  Ancha 
San  Bernardo  (24,000  vols.)  ;  the  fine 
Biblioteca  de  la  Heal  Academia  de 
Eistoria,  Calle  Leon,  No.  21,  open 
daily,  and  containing  among  other 
valuable  MSS.  the  only  autograph 
letter  extant  of  Cervantes,  bequeathed 
to  the  library  by  the  Marquis  de  San 
Ramon ;  the  Biblioteca  of  the  Duke 
of  Yeraguas,  San  Mateo,  7  and  9,  con- 
taining interesting  MSS.  on  Columbus, 
the  Duke's  ancestor. 

Churches. — Madrid  can  hardly  be 
said  to  have  a  cathedral  as  yet,  whilst 
Zaragoza,  Cadiz,  and  other  provincial 
towns,  have  two.  In  1576  Philip  II. 
was  asked  to  build  one,  and  12,000 
ducats  were  assigned  out  of  the  archi- 
episcopal  rent,  but  the  Escorial,  his 
cathedral  of  cathedrals,  could  tolerate 
no  rival,  and  the  project  was  aban- 
doned. In  1623,  Philip  IV. 's  pious 
queen  renewed  the  scheme,  and  ob- 
tained from  the  king  a  sum  of  70,000 


ducats,  to  which  the  town  added  50,000 
more.  The  first  stone  was  even  laid 
down  behind  the  church  of  Sta.  Maria  ; 
but,  from  several  circumstances,  the 
building  was  once  more  abandoned. 
A  splendid  pile,  half  Romanesque,  half 
pure  Gothic,  is  now  in  course  of  erec- 
tion close  by  the  royal  palace,  and 
should  be  visited.  Begun  in  the  year 
1885,  and  estimated  to  cost  £1,000,000 
sterling,  the  next  generation  will  hardly 
see  the  roof  on,  at  the  present  rate  of 
construction,  even  if  the  whole  scheme 
be  not  abandoned  from  want  of  money 
or  other  adverse  circumstances.  The 
basement,  purely  Romanesque  in  char- 
acter, and  excellent  alike  in  plan, 
detail,  and  finish,  will,  it  is  hoped,  be 
ready  for  use  in  1897  ;  but  the  hard 
nature  of  the  material  which  is  chiefly 
used  for  the  work  (a  sort  of  marble), 
together  with  the  exigencies  of  an 
empty  coffer,  makes  progress  very 
slow.  A  model  of  the  complete  work 
is  to  be  seen  in  the  bishop's  palace, 

hard  by. 

The  usual  features  of  the  churches  are: 
— nave,  transept  and  lofty  lantern,  heavy 
broad  pillars  semi-attached  to  the  white- 
washed walls,  large  square  windows 
without  painted-glass,  tawdry  chapels 
with  cumbrous  altars  and  indifferent 
pictures  and  images  ;  churrigueresque 
fa9ades  and  ornamentation ;  filthy 
pavements,  doors,  etc.  The  principal 
are — 

San  Francisco  el  Grande, — Reached 
by  the  Viaduct  of  Segovia,  at  the 
end  of  the  Calle  Mayor.  A  former 
convent,  founded  by  that  patriarch, 
when  he  came  to  Madrid  in  the  13th 
century,  on  his  way  to  Santiago. 
Here  was  buried  Clavijo,  Camarero  (a 
chamberlain  then,  now  applied  to  wait 
ers  in  hotels!)  to  Henrique  el  Do- 
liente,  and  his  ambassador  to  Tamerlan. 
Here  were  also  buried  the  fair  and 
frail    queen     of    Henry     IV.,    Dona 


1 


MADRID — CHURCHES. 


291 


Juana  of  Portngal,  and  that  mysterious 
personage  of  the  15th  century,  Enrique 
de  Villena— a  magician,  a  brnjo,  a  mago 
(as  said  those  who  did  not  understand 
his  learning),  whose  books  on  this 
supposed  magic,  '  6  de  artes  no  cumpli- 
deras  de  leer,'  were  burned,  by  order 
of  Henry  5 IV.,  by  the  king's  tutor, 
'Barrientos/  in  the  cloisters  of  Sto. 
Domingo  el  Real,  at  Madrid.*  Many 
of  the  learned  of  that  time  lamented 
their  loss,  and  one  of  them, '  el  Bachiller 
Fr.  Gomez,'  in  a  letter  to  Juan  de  Mena, 
says  indignantly,  '  Ca  son  muchos  los 
que  en  este  tiempo  se  fan  dotos  faciendo 
a  otros  insipientes  e  magos,  e  peor  es 
que  fazan  beatos  faciendo  a  otros  nigro* 
manes.' 

The  building  was  pulled  down  in 
1760,  and  the  present  one  erected  on 
the  plans  of  a  Franciscan  monk,  Fray 
Francisco  Oabezas,  who  built  the  cupola ; 
P16  and  Sabatim  finished  it  in  1784.  It 
is  a  large,  imposing  edifice,  in  the  shape 
of  a  vast  rotunda,  surrounded  by  seven 
chapels,  117  ft.  diameter,  153  ft  high 
to  cupola,  and  125  ft.  from  the  entrance 
to  high  chapel.  The  pictures  are  by  the 
Velazquez  (not,  of  course,  the  great 
man),  Casado,  Contreras,  Ribera,  and 
Goya.  The  church  has  lately  been 
very  gorgeously  restored,  the  ceilings 
being  painted  by  the  Sefiores  Ribera 
and  Plasencia.  Note  the  fine  stalls  ateast 
end,  brought  from  El  Parral,  Segovia. 

*  Some,  however,  escaped  the  faggot  Among 
the  most  remarkable  are:  Translations  from 
Dante  and  Virgil ;  Arte  Cisaria,  or  Art  of  Carv- 
ing, printed  1766.  The  Mneid  is  now  in  the 
Bib.  Colombina,  Seville ;  his  '  Libro  de  los 
Trabajos  de  Hercules '  is  in  the  possession  of 
S.  Gayangos.  Princes  and  kings  in  all  coun- 
tries have  sought  always  to  read  in  the  face 
of  the  heavens  the  truth  which  they  found 
not  around  them,  and  besides  this  prince, 
Alfonso  el  Imperator  was  much  given  to  astro- 
logy. His  '  Del  Tesoro,'  wherein  the  philoso- 
pher's stone  is  mentioned  and  found,  is  in  the 
Bib.  Nacional.  The  'Libro  completo  en  los 
Judisios  de  las  Estrellas,'  in  the  Bib.  Campo- 
manes. 


San  Geroirimo. — Close  to  the  Retiro. 
Once  a  gem  of  Gothic  at  its  best  period, 
built  by  Enrique  IV.  The  statues  of 
kings,  stalls  carved  in  Flanders,  pic- 
tures, etc.,  all  disappeared  during  the 
truly  'infausta'  occupation  of  Madrid 
by  the  French.  The  Jura  of  the 
Princes  of  Asturias  takes  place  here. 

Atocha. — The  old  basilica  of  the 
Atocha,  built  in  1523  and  rebuilt  by 
order  of  Ferdinand  VII.,  has  been 
lately  pulled  down.  A  new  church  is 
being  erected,  but  will  not  be  com- 
pleted till  the  beginning  of  the  20th 
century.  The  word  'Atocha'  is  said 
to  have  been  derived  from  two  which 
were  used  in  connection  with  a  very 
ancient  image — now  black  with  age — 
of  the  Virgin  Mary,  reputed  to  have 
been  carved  by  St.  Luke,  and  brought 
to  Spain  from  Antiocha  or  Antiochia, 
as  the  Spaniards  wrote  it.  On  the 
base  of  the  statue  is  carved  the  word 
Theotokos,  in  Greek  letters  ;  the  image 
was  often  called  Theotoca,  hence  Nuestra 
Senora  de  Atocha.  Until  the  church 
was  dismantled  the  royal  family  were 
accustomed  to  attend  it  every  Saturday 
afternoon,  in  half  state,  to  join  in  the 
Salve  sung  at  the  shrine  of  the  famous 
Madonna.  This  ceremony  now  takes 
place  at  the  church  of  the  Buen  Succso, 
where  the  image  has  found  a  temporary 
home.  The  Atocha  contains  the  tombs 
of  the  original  founder,  Hurtado  de 
Mendoza,  Charles  V.'s  confessor,  of 
Bartolome'  de  las  Casas,  '  el  abogado  de 
los  Indios'  (the  celebrated  Apostle  of 
the  Indians),  of  General  Palafox,  the 
great  defender  of  Zaragoza,  of  Narvaez, 
Concha,  and  Prim  (fine  tomb  of  the 
last  named,  by  Zuloaga). 

San  IMro. — In  the  Calle  de  Toledo. 
This  church  is  at  present  used  as  the 
cathedral.  It  was  founded  by  the 
Jesuits  in  1567  ;  and  was  pulled  down 
and  rebuilt  in  1651,  under  the 
patronage    of    the    Empress    Maria 


292 


MADRID — CHURCHES. 


of  Austria,  after  designs  by  the  Jesuit 
Francisco  Bantista.  The  high  chapel 
was  altered  by  V.  Rodriguez.  Here 
are  the  bodies  of  San  Isidro  (not 
Isidore),  the  pious  Madrilenian  plough- 
boy,  in  the  service  of  the  Condes  de 
Onate,  and  of  his  not  less  pious  better- 
half,  Santa  Maria  de  la  Cabeza.  The 
statue  of  the  saint  is  by  Mena,  and  the 
large  painting  of  the  Holy  Trinity  by 
Mengs.  Several  political  saints  are 
buried  here  also,  and  among  them  the 
artillerymen  Daoiz  and  Velarde,  the 
heroes  'del  Dos  de  Mayo,1  Donoso 
Cortes,  etc.  The  facade  is  very  poor ; 
four  colossal  columns  and  two  pilasters 
rise  to  the  very  cornice  ;  two  large  un- 
finished towers  flank  the  extremities. 
The  cupola  is  effective,  and  the  transept 
broad  and  spacious.  The  chapels  are 
sombre,  and  contain  no  objects  of 
interest. 

Sto,  Domingo.  —  Founded  1219,  by 
Domingo  de  Guzman,  for  a  nunnery, 
especially  patronised  by  kings.  The 
choir  was  rebuilt  for  Philip  II.  by 
Herrera,  in  remembrance  of  his  son 
Don  Carlos,  whose  body  lay  here  from 
1567  to  1573.  There  are  several 
princes  and  infantas  buried  here,  and 
among  them  Berengucla,  daughter  of 
Alfonso  the  Learned.  In  the  high 
chapel,  erected  by  the  Prioress  Con- 
stanza,  are  the  fine  marble  tombs  of 
her  grandfather,  the  Infante  D.  Juan, 
and  that  of  the  celebrated  D.  Pedro  el 
Cruel,  whose  body  lay  forgotten  in  the 
hamlet  of  La  Puebla  de  Alcocer,  and 
was  removed  hither  in  1444.  His 
brother,  D.  Enrique,  who  had  murdered 
him  at  Montiel,  erected  a  paltry  church 
for  his  interment  near  that  place,  and 
commemorated  the  murder  in  his  will, 
signed  at  Burgos,  May  1374,  beginning 
'In  thanksgiving  to  God,  through 
whose  favour  and  mercies,'  etc.  A 
former   statue   of   the   king  was  re- 


moved during  the  French  war  to  the 
cellars.  The  ashes  of  the  Justiciero, 
as  he  was  sometimes  called,  are  buried 
in  the  Chapter-room.  On  the  whole  it 
is  a  most  indifferent  edifice. 

Santa  Maria. — The  earliest  church  in 
Madrid,  now  (1 895)  destroyed.  Used  by 
the  Moore  as  a  mosque,  and  its  name  'de 
la  Almudayna '  (a  granary),  is  certainly 
Arab,  and  was  applied  to  the  Virgin,  a 
miraculous  image  said  to  have  been 
found  near  a  Moorish  granary  after  the 
capture  of  the  town  by  the  Christians. 

San  Antonio  del  Pardo.  —  Close  to 
the  Florida.  This  church,  of  no  par- 
ticular architectural  merit,  deserves  a 
visit  on  account  of  its  fine  frescoes  by 
Gaza.  It  lies  an  easy  walk  from  the 
Puerta  del  Sol,  beyond  the  Northern 
Railway  Station. 


San  Andrts. — An  early  church  to 
which  the  Catholic  kings,  who  lived 
on  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  man- 
sion of  the  Duke  of  Osuna,  contributed 
Philip  V.  began  the  chapel  of  San 
Isidro,  tutelar  of  Madrid,  in  1668  ;  it 
cost  1,000,000  ducats.  The  barocco, 
heavy  style,  is  well  worthy  of  its  archi- 
tect, Villareal.  The  pictures  are  by 
Ricci  and  Carreno.  Behind  this  church 
is  the  Capilla  del  Obispo,  Gothic; 
finished  by  Bishop  Gutierre,  but  founded 
and  begun  in  Charles  V.'s  time  by 
Vargas,  who  had  been  a  friend  and 
councillor  of  the  Catholic  kings,  whose 
reliance  on  his  penetration  was  so  great 
that  it  gave  rise  to  the  proverb,  '  averi- 
guelo  Vargas.' 

San  Ginis. — Rebuilt  about  1642; 
very  indifferent,  except  for  a  crypt, 
*  la  boveda,'  where  on  certain  days  of 
the  year,  Lent  and  others,  such  '  ejer- 
cicios  espirituales1  as  flagellation,  or 


MADRID — PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 


293 


pious  whipping,  take  place ;  but  the 
custom  is  slackening,  and  the  rods  are 
no  longer  in  great  request.  Observe 
here  a  paso  of  a  Santo  Cristo,  by  Ver- 
gaz,  and  Christ  seated  and  stripped,  by 
Alonso  Cano. 

Las  Salesas.—  Built  1749  by  Ferdi- 
nand VI.  and  his  queen,  Dona  Barbara, 
for  the  education  of  noblemen's  daugh- 
ters. It  cost  £83,000  ;  Carlier  was  the 
architect.  The  facade  towards  the 
garden  is  the  best  and  most  effective. 
It  is  on  the  whole  a  large  and  regular 
edifice,  well  proportioned,  but  with  the 
tinsel  and  cumbrous  ornamentation  so 
much  in  vogue  at  the  time.  Ferdinand 
VI.  's  sepulchre,  by  Sabatim  and  Guti- 
errez, is  fine.  A  wit  has  said  of  the 
tvhole :  '  Barbara  Reyna,  barbara  obra, 
barbaro  gusto.'  In  the  16th  and  17th 
centuries  most  countries  had  an  espe- 
cial church  and  hospital  built  for  the 
exclusive  use  of  their  countrymen, 
travelling  or  residents,  and  supported 
by  them.  Thus  the  English  had  '  San 
Jorge,'  built  in  1611,  on  the  site  of  the 
present  San  Ignacio,  in  Calle  del  Prin- 
cipe ;  the  French,  in  1615,  built  San 
Luis,  where  to  this  day  the  French  at 
Madrid  resort  to  hear  sermons,  etc. ,  in 
their  native  tongue.  The  Italians 
founded  that  of  'el  Nuncio,'  or  Los 
Italianos,  in  Carrera  San  Geronimo. 
The  Portuguese  built  'San  Antonio,' 
which  has  some  good  frescoes  by  Gior- 
dano and  Ricci.  The  Flemish,  in  1606, 
erected  that  of  '  San  Andres, '  etc.  The 
religious  festivities  are  devoid  of  the 
usual  pomp  displayed  elsewhere ;  and 
the  procession  of  Corpus,  Holy  Friday, 
etc. ,  must  not  be  seen  here,  but  in  To- 
ledo, Seville,  Valencia,  etc 


Public  Buildings.  —  Town  Sail 
{Casas  Consistoriales)  is  an  oblong  edi- 
fice of  the  middle  of  17th  century,  with 


square  towers  at  the  corners,  composed 
of  two  stories ;  the  interior  is  spacious, 
the  staircase  fine.  The  best  facade  is 
that  on  Calle  de  la  Almudayna,  modern- 
ised by  Villaneuva.  The  Custodia,  a 
fine  work  of  Alvarez,  1588,  was  stolen 
some  years  ago.  On  the  site  of  the 
Town  Hall  stood  formerly  the  Consejo 
de  Madrid,  built  under  Juan  II.  In  this 
plaza  took  place  the  Autos  Sacramen- 
tales.  The  Ayuntamiento  or  corpora- 
tion had  the  privilege  (granted  1317) 
of  managing  everything  connected  with 
these  performances,  to  form  the  com- 
panies of  actors,  etc.* 

The  National  Bank  of  Spain  stands 
at  the  corner  of  the  Salon  del  Prado 
and  the  Calle  Alcala.  It  is  one  of 
the  finest  public  buildings  in  Europe, 
and  cost  about  £1,000,000  sterling. 
See  especially  the  splendid  marble 
staircase,  a  masterpiece  of  modern 
Renaissance  art. 

Audiencia. — This  tribunal,  now  in 
Las  Salesas,  formerly  occupied  the  site 
of  an  edifice  built  for  a  carcel  de  corte 
by  the  Marquis  de  Crescenci  for  Philip 
IV.,  and  over  the  door  was  kept  the 

*  In  the  beginning  of  1 7th  century  the  celebra- 
tion of  these  autos  during  the  festivities  of  Corpus 
Christi  ran  thus : — The  first  and  second  autos 
were  first  performed  on  Corpus  day  at  4  p.m., 
in  the  palace,  then  again  at  the  Conseja  de 
Castilla,  in  the  same  plazuela ;  and  at  night  in 
the  presence  of  the  members  of  the  Council  of 
Aragon.  Next  morning  the  autos  were  per- 
formed before  the  Inquisition,  the  Corporation, 
and  Ministerios.  The  public  were  not  ad- 
mitted until  the  8th  representation.  These  semi- 
religious  spectacles  fell  off  after  1664.  Calderon, 
the  celebrated  Spanish  author,  wrote  seventy- 
two  autos,  with  loos,  by  order  of  the  ayunta- 
miento, to  whose  archives  he  bequeathed 
them ;  most  of  them  were  stolen,  but  copies 
were  left  in  their  stead,  the  copyright  of  which 
the  bookseller,  Pedro  Pando  y  Nier,  pui  chased 
in  17x6  for  x6,5oor. 


294 


MADRID — PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 


inscription: — 'This  Carcel  de  Corte 
was  built  for  the  safety  and  comfort  of 
prisoners.' 

Casa  de  los  Consejos. — Opposite  the 
church  of  Santa  Maria,  begun  in  the 
reign  of  Philip  III.  by  the  Duke  de 
Uceda.  A  fine  large  solid  building, 
well  proportioned-  The  lottery  is  drawn 
here. 

Congreso  {House  of  Commons).  — Be- 
gun in  1842  by  Sefior  Colomer,  and 
finished  in  1850  on  the  model  (J)  of 
the  French  Corps  Legislatif.  In  the 
centre  of  the  principal  facade  is  a  tri- 
angular front,  on  the  tympanum  of 
which  is  represented  Spain  receiving 
Law,  accompanied  by  Power  and  Jus- 
tice ;  the  execution  of  this  satire  is 
very  clumsy,  and  no  less  so  are  the 
ferocious  lions  on  the  sides  of  the  steps, 
one  of  which  was  singed  by  a  cannon- 
ball  in  1854.  The  interior  is  hand- 
somely furnished  and  decorated  with 
pictures  by  Senores  Madrazo,  Rivera, 
Espalter,  etc.  Observe  the  fine  one  of 
the  'Comuneros,'  by  Gisbert,  a  rising 
painter.  The  public  are  admitted  to 
the  Tribuna  publica;  but  travellers 
had  better  apply  to  a  member  for 
ticket  to  Tribuna  reservada.  Members 
speak  from  their  places.  The  ministe-  j 
rial  bench  is  called  el  banco  azul.  The  j 
speakers  most  worth  hearing  are : —  | 
Messieurs  Castelar,  Canovas,  P.  Her- 
rera,  etc 

Senado  {House  of  Lords).  A  poor 
building,  but  containing  some  fine 
paintings  by  Pradilla,  etc.  See 
especially  the  Surrender  of  Grcmada. 
Visitors  are  admitted  from  ten  o'clock 
till  noon,  by  simple  application  to 
the  chief  porter  at  the  gate.  The 
Senado  is  in  the  Plaza  de  los  Minis- 
terios. 


Public  Offices.—  The  Home  Office 
(Gobernacion),  formerly  occupying 
Marquet's  (a  French  architect)  ugly 
square  building  in  the  Puerta  del  Sol, 
has  been  removed  to  very  handsome 
quarters  in  the  Paseo  de  Atocha,  close 
to  the  Jardin  Botanio.  The  Ministerio 
de  la  Querra  occupies  a  very  fine  large 
building,  some  186  ft.  long  on  each 
facade,  near  the  Prado,  and  called  '  de 
Buena  Vista.'  It  was  built  by  the 
Duchess  of  Alba,  mother  of  the  present 
duke,  and  afterwards  purchased  by  the 
obsequious  corporation  to  present  it  to 
Godoy,  Principe  de  la  Paz.  We  may 
also  mention  the  very  large  and  well- 
built  Casa  de  Moneda,  the  mint  erected 
in  Paseo  de  Recoletos ;  the  tobacco- 
manufactory;  the  Finance- Ministerio, 
Calle  de  Alcala ;  the  Bank  of  San 
Fernando,  a  handsome  building  in 
Calle  Atocha. 

In  the  Salon  del  Prado  may  be 
seen  the  handsome  new  Bolsa  (Ex- 
change) ;  and  close  by,  in  the  Calle 
Felipe  IV.,  near  to  the  Picture 
Gallery,  the  fine  building  of  the  Real 
Academia  Espanola.  The  old  '  Cibeles ' 
fountain,  in  the  Calle  de  Alcala, 
is  now  removed  further  down  the* 
Salon. 

There  are  some  fine  and  well-organ- 
ised hospitals  —  that  of  La  Princesa, 
the  expenses  of  which  are  about  £8000 
a  year ;  the  Facultad  de  Medicina  de 
San  Carlos,  a  fine  building ;  Anatomi- 
cal Museo,  etc. 

Private  Houses. — The  mansion  of  the 
Duke  of  Alba >  called  Palacio  de  Liria, 
is  low,  but  with  a  fine  facade  built  by 
Ventura  Rodriguez,  and  contains  a 
sumptuously-furnished  suite  of  apart- 
ments, a  picture-gallery,  library,  ar- 
moury, and  a  theatre.  That  of  the 
Duque  de  Villahermosa,  in  the  Plaza 
de  las  C6rtes,  that  of  the  Marques  de 
Casa  Biera,  etc.,  in  Calle  de  Alcala, 
are  large  but  commonplace. 


MADRID — SQUARES. 


295 


In  the  Paseo  de  Recoletos,  which 
is  the  Madrid  Avenue  da  Bois  de  Bou- 
logne, several  handsome  hotels  have 
been  recently  constructed.  Observe 
amongst  them  the  Italian  palace  of 
Marquis  de  Salamanca,  now  occu- 
pied by  a  bank.  Here  was  formerly 
one  of  the  finest  private  picture 
galleries  and  libraries  in  Madrid, 
which,  like  so  many  other  aristocratic 
collections,  has  been  dispersed. 
At  the  corner  of  the  Alcala  and  Paseo 
stands  the  fine  Palacio  de  Murga  (no 
admission),  with  its  frescoes  byPradilla. 
Farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  the  imposing 
Convento  de  S.  Pascual ;  and  beyond 
the  Museos  Nacionales  the  Casa  de  la 
Moneda  (mint). 

Squares,  Bridges,  Streets,  etc— 
There  are  seventy-two  squares  in  Ma- 
drid, most  of  which  do  not  deserve  the 
name.  The  principal  are  Plaza  Mayor; 
434  ft.  long,  334  wide,  1536  in  circum- 
ference. This  square  is  surrounded  by 
an  open  portico  (30  portales),  divided 
by  pillars  rising  71  ft.  high,  which 
support  the  three  stories  of  the  houses. 
Several  arched  ways  give  ingress  into 
it.  On  the  site  of  a  former  one,  which 
was  made  in  the  reign  of  Juan  II.,  the 
present  one  was  built  for  Philip  III. 
by  L.  Gomez  de  Mora  ;  was  begun  De- 
cember 1617,  and  finished  two  years 
after,  at  a  cost  of  9000  ducats ;  4000 
persons  could  lodge  in  the  houses 
around,  and  the  square  on  great  festivi- 
ties would  hold  50,000  spectators,  when 
balconies  were  let  for  twelve  ducats,  a 
large  sum  then,  but  small  in  proportion 
to  that  paid  at  the  royal  bull -fights 
which  took  place  here  to  celebrate  the 
marriage  of  Queen  Isabel  II.  In  May 
1620  it  was  inaugurated  by  a  great 
funcion,  in  honour  of  the  Beatification 
of  San  Ysidro,  whose  canonisation  took 
place  two  years  after.  On  June  1, 
1623,  Charles  I.,  then  Prince  of  Wales, 


was  here  present  at  a  bull-fight ;  and 
on  August  21  canas  took  place,  when 
all  the  beauty  and  grandees  gathered 
round  the  English  prince,  and  when  the 
king,  to  pay  him  court,  led  himself  one 
of  the  ten  cuadrillas.  Charles  sat  close 
to  his  affianced  bride,  the  Infanta 
Maria,  from  whom  he  was  separated 
by  a  slender  railing. 

In  1631  a  great  portion  of  the  S.  side 
was  destroyed  by  fire,  and  in  1672 
another  fire  consumed  the  Panaderia. 
In  the  centre  stands  a  superb  equestrian 
statue  of  Philip  III.,  executed  by  Juan 
de  Bologna,  from  a  drawing  by  Pantoja, 
and  completed  by  Pedro  Tacca.  The 
horse  looks  like  a  prize  cow,  which  is 
no  fault  of  the  artist,  but  of  the  breed. 
The  Plaza  is  the  rendezvous  of  the 
lower  classes,  and  as  such  interesting 
to  the  artist.  About  Christmas  it  pre- 
sents  a  most  animated  sight — piles  of 
oranges  and  sandias,  droves  of  turkeys, 
sweetmeats,  turrones  and  mazapanes, 
drums,  panderetas,  crowd  it  on  all  sides, 
converting  it  into  a  pandemonium  of 
delights. 

Puerta  del  Sol. — Said  to  derive  its 
name  from  one  of  the  gates  of  Old  Ma- 
drid, which  stood  here,  towards  the  E. 
This  is  the  heart  of  the  city,  from  which 
the  main  streets  diverge  liko  so  many 
arteries.  It  is  the  rendezvous  of  idlers 
as  well  as  men  of  business,  for  here  all 
come  to  deal  with  time,  that  precious 
metal  which  the  wise  man  turns  into 
gold,  and  the  fool  squanders.  Tomar 
el  sol  is,  however,  the  principal  occu- 
pation, and  endless  cigarritos  and 
schemes  are  puffed,  which  all  end  in 
smoke.  All  the  lines  of  tramcar3 
meet  and  diverge  here.  On  the 
south  side  rises  the  imposing 
building  lately  occupied  by  the  Home 
Office,  now  (1898)  about  to  be  pulled 
down,  as  the  new  Gobernaoion  in  the 
Atocha  is  finished. 


296 


MADRID — STREETS. 


Plazuela  de  la  Villa  (see  Town  Hall). 
The  large  house  near  the  Town  hall  was 
the  palace  of  Cardinal  Ximenes,  and  the 
balcony  is  pointed  out,  looking  to  Calle 
del  Sacramento,  from  which  the  cardi- 
nal, on  his  being  asked,  by  a  depu- 
tation of  the  irritated  nobility,  to 
show  the  letters -patent  which  gave 
him  authority  over  them,  answered, 
pointing  to  the  formidable  array  of 
troops  and  cannons  which- were  formed 
on  the  plain  below — 'These  are  the 
powers  by  which  I  govern  the  king- 
dom, and  I  will  continue  to  do  so, 
until  the  king,  your  master  and  mine, 
comes  to  relieve  me  ; '  but  his  historian, 
Alvar  Gomez,  denies  the  fact,  and  adds 
that  it  is  a  bad  imitation  of  Scipio's 
saying.  Here  also  is  the  Torre  de  los 
Lujanes,  where  Francis  I.  was  confined 
until  removed  to  the  palace,  and  from 
which,  according  to  Mr.  Scribe,  in  his 
'Contes  de  la  Reine  de  Navarre,'  he 
could  plainly  hear  singing  and  the 
guitar  played  from  the  other  side  of 
the  Manzanares. 

Plazuela  de  la  Paja. — A  large  open 
square,  where  several  autos-da-fe*  and 
political  executions  have  taken  place. 
It  is  the  principal  corn -market.  Be- 
tween this  and  the  Plazuela  de  la  Villa 
is  that  de  la  Cruz  Verde,  in  the  centre 
of  which  stands  a  cross  which  marks 
the  spot  where  the  last  auto-da-fe*  took 
place  in  Madrid. 

Plaza  de  Oriente. — E.  of  Royal  Palace, 
one  of  the  earliest  squares  planted  with 
trees,  and  which  have  since  become 
general  in  Madrid.  It  is  decorated 
with  indifferent  statues  of  kings  and 
queens  of  Spain,  which  formerly  stood 
on  the  stone  balustrade  of  the  palace. 
In  the  centre  is  a  magnificent  equestrian 
statue  of  Philip  IV.  on  his  war  charger, 
a  present  of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany. 
Montanes  carved  the  model  in  wood 


after  designs  by  Velazquez,  and  it  was 
cast  at  Florence,  1640,  by  Pietro  Tacca. 
It  weighs  180  cwt.,  and  is  19  feet  high. 
Galileo  is  said  to  have  suggested  the 
means  by  which  the  balance  is  so  ad- 
mirably preserved.  All  the  front  por- 
tion is  hollow,  and  the  hinder  massive. 
When  made  it  was  valued  at  40,000 
doubloons.  The  bassi-relievi  represent 
Philip  IV.  knighting  Velazquez,  an 
allegory,  etc 


Streets. — The  handsomest  street  is 
Calle  deAlcald.  Calle  Montera.  — This 
steep  street  is  lined  with  shops — half- 
way is  the  church  of  St.  Luis,  an  indif- 
ferent edifice — and  terminates  at  a  foun- 
tain. It  derives  its  name  from  the  fair 
wife  of  a  Montero  del  Rey,  who  lived 
here.  The  portion  around  the  church 
is  called  Red  de  San  Luis,  a  name  ap- 
plied to  markets  where  cattle  and  sheep 
were  sold,  and  especially  sheep,  which 
are  kept  within  esparto  nets  (redes). 

Caballero  de  Gracia,  so  called  because 
Jacopo  de  Grattis  of  Modena,  a  knight 
of  the  order  of  Christ,  died  here  at  the 
age  of  102  (1619).  In  the  same  street 
died  also  Anthony  Asham,  Cromwell's 
ambassador,  who  was  murdered,  May 
6,  1650,  by  some  English  royalists,  to 
avenge  Charles  I.'s  death,  for  which 
Asham  had  voted.  Just  where  the  Ca- 
ballero de  Gracia  debouches  upon  the 
Calle  Alcala,  is  situated  the  church  of 
San  Jose*,  which,  with  the  Calatravas, 
also  in  the  Alcald,  shares  the  distinction 
of  being  the  most  fashionable  church 
rendezvous  of  Madrid. 


Leganitos,  Arabice  al  Gannib,  gar- 
dens, orchards,  which  were  here  for- 
merly, extending  to  Calles  de  las  Huer- 
tas  and  Jardines  ;  these  have  long  ago 


MADRID — STREETS. 


297 


disappeared,  and  the  roses  that  grow 
here  now  have  more  thorns  than  per- 
fume. 

Gates:  Puerto  de  Alcald. — Avery 
notable  triumphal  arch,  built  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  III.,  to  commemorate 
his  arrival  at  the  Corte.  It  is  70  ft. 
high  and  consists  of  5  arches.  It  was 
designed  by  Sabatini,  and  is  decorated 
with  Ionic  columns,  the  capitals  of 
which  were  moulded  on  those  exe- 
cuted by  M.  Angelo  for  the  Capitol  at 
Rome. 

The  Puerto  de  Toledo  is  large  but  of 
no  merit.  It  was  built  by  Ferdinand 
VII.  on  his  return  from  Valencay. 


Bridges:  Puente  de  Toledo. — Very 
picturesque.  Consists  of  nine  arches, 
elegant  and  plain.  Built  on  site  of  a 
former  one  in  1735  ;  is  36  ft.  wide  and 
885  long ;  half-way  are  the  statues  of 
San  Isidro  and  his  holy  wife.  On  the 
plains  around  it  (to  the  left,  next  the 
gate)  executions  take  place.  Here  the 
gallant  General  Diego  Leon  was  shot, 
for  supposed  high  treason,  by  order  of 
Espartero,  and  fell  a  prey  to  party 
spirit ;  and  the  Cura  Merino,  who 
stabbed  Queen  Isabella  some  years  since, 
was  garrotted  and  burnt.  Public  exe- 
cutions are  now  unfrequent,  their 
effect  on  the  lower  classes  being  homoeo- 
pathic, and  rather  productive  of  crime. 

Puente  de  Segovia. — A  well-built 
bridge  after  designs  by  Juan  de  Herrera, 
and  all  of  stone.  Nine  arches,  81  feet 
broad  and  695  long.  Though  much 
injured  by  the  accumulation  of  sands 
and  neglected,  it  is  nevertheless  a  fine 
bridge,  and  deserves  a  river. 

The  Manzanares.  —  This  waterless 
river  takes  its  source  eight  leagues  off, 


near  a  small  village  of  that  name,  flows 
N.W.  to  S.E.,  crosses  the  Prado,  leaves 
the  Casa  de  Campo  to  the  right,  and 
Madrid  to  left,  and  four  leagues  farther  t 
joins  the  Tarama.  Like  most  rivers 
in  Spain,  it  is  but  a  mountain  torrent 
produced  by  snows,  and  therefore  almost 
dry  in  winter,  and  sometimes  overflow- 
ing in  the  spring.  Many  therefore  have 
been  the  pleasantries  of  which  this  poor 
stream  has  been  the  butt  The  Canal 
de  Manzanares,  begun  by  Charles  III., 
finished  by  Ferdinand  VII.,  and  which 
commenced  at  the  bridge  of  Toledo  and 
went  as  far  as  Vacia  Madrid,  has  been 
recently  suppressed.  The  Canal  de  Lo- 
zoya,  or  Isabel  II.,  begins  at  Torrelaguna, 
and  runs  70  k.  into  Madrid  :  the  aque- 
ducts of  Valdealeas  and  Sotillo,  with 
the  dyke  of  the  Oliva  Ponton,  are  the 
most  important  works.  The  engineer, 
Sr.  Lucio  del  Valle,  was  created  Mar- 
ques  del  Lozoya. 

Prout-bits. — The  old  Madrid  of  Lope 
de  Vega  and  Calderon,  the  Madrid  of 
Capa  y  Espada,  of  Cervantes  and  Gil 
Bias,  was  situated  S.  E.  of  the  palace. 
About  the  Almudena,  the  Carrera  de  S. 
Francisco,  Bajada  de  la  Cuesta  de  la 
Vega,  Consejos,  etc.,  lived,  and  still 
live,  the  great  families  of  Malpicas, 
Infantados,  Ucedas,  Abrantes,  Villa- 
francas,  etc.  The  portion  about  Cava 
Baja,  Calle  Segovia,  Puerta  Cerrada, 
was  the  Moreria  and  Jews'  quarter. 
These  latter,  very  numerous  in  14th 
and  15th  centuries  here,  had  a  fine  syna- 
gogue, and  paid  a  tribute  of  10,105 
maravedises.  (Patron-general  formed 
at  Huete,  1348.)  The  physician  of 
Tenorio,  Archbishop  of  Toledo,  was  a 
Jew,  Maestro  Pedro  (1395).  The  Jews 
lived  also  on  the  heights  of  Las  Vis- 
tillas. 

Promenades. — In  the  time  of  En- 
rique IV.  the  paseo  was  'La  Redon- 


298 


MADRID — THE  PRADO. 


dilla}'  near  the  "VistiUas.  The  gentle- 
men rode  on  ponies  and  the  ladies  on 
mules,  richly  caparisoned,  and  riding 
on  rudana  saddles,  or,  &  la  gineta — that 
is,  sideways — bat  more  especially  like 
men,  which  latter  custom  was  in  use 
even  as  late  as  Charles  IV. 's  reign, 
whose  queen  adopted  it  exclusively. 

The  Prado,  as  its  name  indicates, 
was  an  extensive  meadow  situated  near 
the  Retiro,  in  whose  palace  the  court 
of  Philip  IV.  almost  always  resided. 
Charles  III.  turned  it  into  a  promenade, 
planting  trees,  and  erecting  the  foun- 
tains, etc. 

The  Paseo  del  Prado  really  extends 
from  the  Paseo  de  Atocha  to  Calle  de 
Alcala;  but  what  is  more  generally 
known  as  the  Prado  is  el  Salon,  a  mag- 
nificent walk  230  ft.  broad,  and  situ- 
ated between  Carrera  de  San  Geronimo 
and  Calle  de  Alcala.  The  fountains 
are  indifferent,  and  by  Vergaz,  Alvarez, 
etc.  Notice,  however,  as  exceptions, 
the  Fuente  de  Neptuno,  by  Francisco 
Gutierrez,  and  that  of  Cibeles,  by 
Pascual  de  Mena.  At  the  corner  of 
the  Alcala  and  Prado  stands  the 
magnificent  building  of  the  Bank  of 
Spain,  which  well  deserves  a  visit. 
Note  especially  the  marble  staircase. 
The  obelisk  'Dos  de  Mayo,'  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Salon,  in  the  garden 
CampodelaLealtad,  was  erected  in  com- 
memoration of  a  combat  which  took 
place  here  in  1808,  between  some 
paisanos,  headed  by  three  gallant  artil- 
lery officers,  Ruiz,  Daoiz,  and  Velarde, 
and  some  French  troops  under  General 
Lefranc,  who  were  endeavouring  (and 
finally  succeeded)  to  obtain  possession 
of  the  artillery  depdts  of  Monteleon. 

The  Prado  is  now  more  frequented 
by  the  lower  than  the  upper  elapses, 
who  prefer  the  Paseo  de  Recoietos. 
The  hours  are,  during  the  winter,  from 
3  to  5  p.m.  ;  in  summer,  8  to  11  p.m., 


when  the  gas-lamps  are  lighted.  Iron 
chairs,  10  centimes  each,  are  placed  in 
rows,  and  the  air  rings  with  '  Fosforos 
y  cerillas,'  '  Agua  fresca  como  la  nieve, 
quien  la  pide?'  'A  un  perro  chico, 
naranjas,'  etc.  The  girls  and  boys  form 
'  coros,'  and  sing  whilst  turning  round, 
to  the  tune  of  '  a  la  limon !  a  la 
limon  1'  all  screamed  through  the  nose ; 
for  the  human  voice  and  that  of  birds 
is  not  harmonious  in  the  south  as  it  is 
in  northern  climes.  The  Paseo  de  Re- 
coietos is  the  favourite  paseo  from  4.30 
to  6.30  p.m.  '  It  has  been  considerably 
improved  recently.  It  is  formed  by  a 
long  broad  avenue  in  the  centre,  a 
smaller  to  the  left  for  horsemen,  and 
walks  on  the  sides,  divided  by  shady 
trees  for  the  multitude  that  goes  on 
foot.  The  well-known  fountain  here, 
de  la  Alcacho/a,  has  been  transferred  to 
the  Retiro.  The  equipages  are  very 
numerous,  and  well  got  up,  and  the 
horses,  mostly  English,  or  of  the  Tarbes 
breed,  handsome  and  costly. 

The  Paseo  de  la  Virgen  del  Puerto, 
near  the  Manzanares,  is  frequented  by 
the  lower  classes  on  holidays.  It  was  a 
very  fashionable  resort  in  the  16th  and 
17th  centuries  ;  and  on  the  morning  of 
St.  John's  Day,  ladies  went  down  to 
'coger  el  trebol'  ('ah,  qu'il  fait  done 
bon,  cueillir  la  f raise,'  says  the  French 
song) ;  and  the  Verbena  nights  were 
boisterous  and  animated,  so  much  so, 
indeed,  that,  in  1588,  that  of  San  Juan 
was  prohibited  by  the  clergy,  to  pro- 
pitiate God,  and  deserve  his  protection 
in  favour  of  the  ( Armada  Santa,'  sent 
against  the  heretic  English.  The  only 
Romeria  now  is  that  to  San  Isidro 
(May  15th),  a  small  church  erected 
by  Charles  V.'s  queen ;  repaired  1724. 
Go  to  it  by  all  means,  and  look  at  the 
bucaro  vases,  cantaros,  alcarrazas,  pu- 
cheros  with  bells,  etc.  That  of  San 
Antonio,  a  small  Hermita  on  the  Florida 


MADRID. 


299 


(another  promenade  little  frequented 
now),  is  the  exclusive  religious  festivity 
of  quadrupeds,  whose  patron  that  saint 
is  considered  to  he.  Strings  of  mules, 
horses,  donkeys,  flock  to  the  shrine  to 
be  blessed  by  the  priest  The  mules 
on  that  occasion  are  shorn,  esquiladas, 
and  tasteful  designs  cut  out  in  their 
hair,  such  as  flower -vases,  trees,  etc 
This  pious  pilgrimage  is  rigorously  ob- 
served by  grooms,  who,  in  their  zeal  for 
the  welfare  of.  their  masters'  beasts, 
push  on  always  to  the  shrines  of  god 
Carifiena  and  goddess  Cerveza,  which 
are  close  by. 


Buen  Eetiro  (retiro,  a  retreat,  seclu- 
sion, a  refuge). — Here  stood  formerly  a 
hunting -box,  called  'El  Cuarto,'  and 
enlarged  by  Philip  II.,  who  added  gal- 
leries and  four  towers,  likening  it  to  a 
villa  in  which  he  had  lived  with  Queen 
Mary  during  his  sojourn  in  England. 
It  is  now  a  small  enclosed  garden  at 
the  corner  of  the  Alcala  and  the  Salon 
del  Prado,  used  for  open-air  concerts, 
etc.,  and' is  not  to  be  confounded  with 
the  Retiro,  or  Parque  de  Madrid.  The 
Madrilefios  resort  to  the  Buen  Retiro 
in  summer  for  dinners  and  suppers 
and  music.  It  is  well  lit  with  elec- 
tricity. 

Parque  de  Madrid.  —  The  great 
'  breathing  place '  of  the  city,  and  in  the 
dpring  and  summer  a  charming  resort 
In  the  centre  of  this  fine  pleasure- 
ground,  of  260  acres,  and  a  scene  of 
great  animation  on  fine  afternoons,  is  a 
large  pond,  el  estangue,  with  several 
pavilions.  There  was  formerly  a 
flotilla  of  boats,  placed  under  the 
command  of  an  admiral.  In  the 
menagerie,  Casa  de  Fieras,  live  two  or 
three  octogenarian  bears,  a  featherless 
hoary  eagle,  and  half  a  dozen  canaille- 
looking  monkeys. 


Broad  carriage  drives  intersect  the 
Park  in  all  directions,  and  here — 
carriages  entering  from  the  Vicalvaro 
— is  the  fashionable  drive,  in  winter 
from  3  to  5,  in  summer  from  5  to  7, 
the  Paseo  de  Fernan  Nunez  being  the 
most  aristocratic  resort.  There  are 
also  numerous  roads  for  riders  and 
shady  footpaths.  The  best  fountains 
are  the  Alcachofa,  at  the  S.W.  corner 
of  the  Estanque,  the  Galapagos,  at  the 
N.W.  corner,  and  the  Angel  Caido 
(fallen  angel).  From  the  Montana 
Rusa,  at  the  N.E.  extremity  (with  its 
Belvedere),  a  fine  view  of  Madrid  and 
the  surrounding  country  is  obtained. 
The  cafes  in  the  Park  are  not  good. 


Barrio  de  Salamanca. — A  new  and 
most  healthy  quarter  of  Madrid,  laid 
out  by  the  wealthy  and  enterprising 
banker,  the  Marquis  of  Salamanca. 
It  contains  several  magnificent 
mansions. 


Casino  de  la  Heyna. — In  1871  this 
small  palace  was  turned  into  the 
Archaeological  Museum,  and  since  the 
transference  of  this  collection  to  the 
Museo  Nacionales,  in  the  Paseo  de 
Recoletos,  it  has  been  dismantled. 
Situated  in  the  Embajadores,  the 
place  has  had  a  curious  history.  At 
one  time  it  was  the  lodging  of  dis- 
tinguished foreigners. 


Botanical  Gardens. — Entrance  oppo- 
site to  picture-gallery  (S.  side).  Has 
been  turned  into  a  jardin  de  aclima- 
lacion.  It  contains  little  to  interest 
botanists,  and  is  ill  kept.  Open  from 
1st  May  to  30th  Sept.  from  4  p.m.  till 
dark,  and  all  the  year  round  with 
permit  from  the  Director,  D.  Miguel 


300 


MADRID— THEATRES. 


Colmeiro,  who  lives  in  Calle  Clavel 
No.  2.  An  indifferent  conservatory 
and  library.  Botanical  lectures  in 
winter. 


Theatres,  Bull -ring,  etc. — Italian 
Opera. — Began  in  1818,  and  opened  in 
1850.  It  is  called  Teatro  Real,  and  is 
situated  close  to  the  royal  palace, 
between  the  Plazas  del  Oriente  and 
Isabella  II.  Season  runs  from  mid- 
October  to  the  end  of  March.  The 
price  of  the  entrada  (separate  from 
that  of  the  seat)  is  here  1£  pesetas; 
at  the  other  theatres  1  peseta.  A  box 
(un  palco),  140  p.  ;  a  stall  (butaca), 
12  p.,  the  upper  row  of  boxes,  palcos 
principales  are  cheaper.  N.B. — Two 
tickets  must  always  be  taken,  one  for 
box  or  stall,  which  is  delivered  to  the 
keeper,  and  the  entrance  ticket  (entrada) 
which  is  delivered  at  the  door.  Fashion- 
able visitors  go  to  stalls.  As  to  toilette, 
men  go  as  they  choose,  except  to  the 
boxes,  when  they  dress.  Ladies  dress 
a  good  deal.  Bonnets  can  be  worn  at 
the  stalls,  but  none  in  boxes.  Low 
dress  or  demi-toilette  is  usual.  The 
opera  begins  generally  about  8.30,  and 
ends  at  12  p.m.  The  entr'actes  are 
long  ;  the  orchestra  good  and  well  con- 
ducted. Italian  opera  and  ballet,  and 
sacred  music  during  Lent.  The  bouse 
is  very  elegant,  and  handsomely  fur- 
nished ;  it  is  capable  of  accommodating 
2000  spectators,  and  the  stalls  and 
boxes  are  easy  and  comfortable.  Not- 
withstanding the  low  prices,  the  com- 
pany is  generally  first-rate.  The 
Government  gives  no  subvention,  and 
the  empresarios  ruin  themselves,  with 
the  greatest  possible  certainty  of  doing 
so,  when  they  take  it  up. 

Teatro  Princesa. — In  the  Calle  del 
Marques  de  la  Enaenada,  behind  the  War 
Office.     A  handsome  theatre,  devoted 


to  comedy  and  drama.  Much  fre- 
quented by  the  fashionable  world  of 
Madrid.  Ladies  need  not  dress,  how- 
ever, except  in  the  boxes. 

La  Zarzuela. — Calle  de  Jovellanos. 
It  is  a  very  pretty  theatre,  destined 
exclusively  for  the  National  Opera 
Comique.  Palcos  and  plateaus,  15  p. 
at  the  bureau,  and  20  p.  at  contaduria 
(without  entrada).  The  entresuelos 
{rcz-dechaussie,  literally),  and  princi- 
pales, same  prices.  Butacas,  3  pes.  and 
4  pes.  at  contaduria.  1  p.  each  entrada ; 
the  lowest  is  3r.,  much  frequented. 

Teatro  Espafiol. — Calle  del  Principe. 
The  best  theatre  to  have  an  idea  of  the 
actual  Spanish  drama.  All  the  new 
plays  are  given  here.  Will  contain 
2000  spectators;  the  best  acting  in 
Madrid.  Except  in  first  boxes,  ladies 
can  dress  as  they  choose  at  either ; 
palcos  de  platea  and  bajos  (without 
entrada),  35  pes. ;  a  stall,  4  pes.  ;  the 
prices,  however,  vary. 

Teatro  Apolo.  —  Calle  de  Alcala, 
Comedies  and  light  pieces;  short 
plays.  Tickets  may  be  taken  for  each 
section. 

Teatro  de  la  Comedia,  Calle  del  Prin- 
cipe, new  and  well  arranged.. 

Teatro  y  Oirco  del  Principe  Alfonso, 
originally  built  as  a  circus.  Paseo  de 
Recoletos  17.  Now  a  large  summer 
theatre. 

Novedades,  Plazuela  de  la  Cebada. — 
A  low  theatre  ;  popular  dramas,  farces. 

Circo  de  Parish  (formerly  de  Price). 
— An  English  circus,  in  the  Plaza  del 
Rey.    Very  good. 

Circo  de  Colon. — A  Spanish  circus  in 
the  Plaza  Alonso  Martinez.  Very 
popular  in  summer. 


MADRID — BULL-RING. 


301 


The  opera  begins  in  October  and 
ends  in  April.  Subscriptions  are 
cheap. 

At  some  of  the  second  and  third  rate 
theatres — Variedades,  Lara,  Eslava  and 
Martin — the  house  is  cleared  at  the 
conclusion  of  each  piece.  There  are 
bad  imitations  of  Mabille,  Salle  Valen- 
tino, Ch&teau-des-Fleurs,  etc.,  at  the 
Liceo  Rius,  in  the  Calle  de  Atocha. 
Prices,  6r.  to  lOr.  The  company  is 
nombreuse,  trials  pas  tres  choisie.  The 
public  and  private  gardens — from  the 
Buen  Retiro  downwards  —  form  the 
great  rendezvous  in  the  summer  evon- 
ings,  from  9  to  11.30  p.m.  The  music 
at  the  Retiro  is  good.  There  are  masked 
balls  at  the  different  theatres  ;  but  the 
only  ones  to  which  ladies  go  (in  dominos, 
of  course)  are  the  Teatro  Real  and  Zar- 
zucla.  The  men  go  unmasked.  The 
fashionable  hours,  twelve  to  four  in 
the  morning.  The  best  society  go  to 
these.  (For  other  festivities  see  General 
Information  :  Festivities.) 

Within  the  last  few  years  the  cele- 
brated old  Basque  game  of  Pelota  has 
become  exceedingly  popular  in  Madrid, 
and  several  fine  courts  have  been  built. 
Visitors  are  advised  to  watch  the  game 
carefully.  The  best  courts  are  the  Jai 
Alai,  in  the  Calle  Alfonso  XII.,  and 
the  Euskal-Jai,  in  the  Calle  del  Mar- 
ques de  la  Ensenada. 


Plaza  de  Toros. — The  Bull  Ring 
is  situated  in  the  Calle  de  Plaza 
de  Toros,  turning  out  of  the  Calle 
Alcala,  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city, 
and  was  erected  in  1874  at  a  cost 
of  £80,000.  The  architects  were 
Rodriguez  Ayuso  and  Alvarez  Capra. 
The  huge  building  is  rather  effec- 
tive with  its  Moorish  forms,  and 
the  best  corridas  in   Spain  are  seen 


here  to  perfection.  They  usually  take 
place  on  Sundays — beginning  from 
April  to  September  or  October.  The 
ring  contains  about  14,000  spectators'. 
Ladiesdonotgoasmuch  as  they  used,  and 
the  royal  family  scarcely  ever.  Spanish 
ladies  who  go  wear  the  mantilla,  which 
is  there  almost  de  rigueur,  but  foreign 
fair  travellers  can  go  in  bonnets,  as,  after 
all,  in  them  it  is  less  remarkable  and 
better  taste.  The  prices  are  liable  to 
change,  but  may  be  put  down  as  fol- 
lows : — boxes  in  the  shade  (palcos  de 
sombra),  75  p. ;  palcos  de  sol  y  sombra, 
35  p. ;  de  sol,  20  p.  But  these  are  most 
difficult  to  obtain,  as  they  are  almost  all 
subscribed ;  in  that  case  travellers  (both 
ladies  and  gentlemen)  had  better  get 
delanteras  de  Grada,  in  the  shade 
{sombra),  which  cost  from  10  to  12 
pesetas  each.  The  bull  fights  generally 
begin  about  3.30  or  4  p.m.,  and  finish  at 
6  or  6.30  p.m.,  six  bulls  being  the  usual 
number  of  victims.  (See  General  Infor- 
mation: BvM-fights.)  NovUladas (young 
bulls  with  tipped  horns)  and  mogigangas 
(men  and  women  masqueraded),  etc., 
take  place  now  and  then  ;  but  they  are 
low  spectacles,  seldom  attended  by  any 
but  the  rabble.  Prices  then  vary,  and 
a  box  costs  only  12£  p.  for  ten  persons. 
There  are  private  bull-fights,  to  which 
persons  can  go  through  acquaintance 
of  the  owners.  The  Duchess  de  Medina- 
Celi  had  one  of  her  own,  and  her  brother- 
in-law,  the  Marquis  of  Villaseca,  was  a 
distinguished  torero.  The  monas  which 
the  bulls  wear  floating  on  their  backs  are 
then  richly  embroidered,  and  made  up  by 
the  fair  who  attend.  The  bulls  m  e  chosen 
purposely  very  young,  and  as  harmless 
as  consistent  with  their  nature. 

Sociedad  de  Caza  {Bunt  Club). — 
Composed  of  the  cream  of  the  rising 
generation,  some  sporting  attaches,  etc., 
harriers  from  England — some  good  runs 
now  and  then.     Apply  to  the  secretary. 


802 


MADRID. 


El  Veloz  (Jockey)  Club,  Alcala  15  ; 
Nuevo  Club,  Alcala  49. 

Cock-fighting. — At  the  Circo  Gallis- 
tico ;  worth  a  visit ;  stalls  and  boxes. 
Much  betting.      On   Sundays  at    12 

P.M. 

Clubs.— The  Casino,  Calle  de  Al- 
caic 18.  Visitors  admitted  (at  a 
small  fee),  for  a  fortnight,  upon 
member's  introduction;  if  for  longer 
have  to  be  subjected  to  ballot,  and 
pay  16  dollars  on  entering,  and 
30r.  a  month.  Trente  et  quarante 
well  attended,  and  much  gambling. 
Foreign  papers,  reviews,  etc  The 
Ateneo,  21  Calle  del  Prado,  quieter; 
reading  and  lecture  rooms.  If  you 
understand  the  language,  attend  the 
lectures  delivered  here  during  the 
season  by  well-known  men.  Conditions 
almost  same  as  for  casino.  Cir- 
culo  de  Comercio  and  Union  Mercan- 
til.  Two  other  second-rate  clubs. 
Reading-rooms,  Carrera  San  Geronimo 
No.  3,  ground -floor,  and  Calle  de  la 
Victoria. 

Post  Office. — Calle  de  Carretas,  just 
off  the  Puerta  del  Sol.  French  and 
English  letters  are  delivered  at  10  A.M. 
Buzones  cleared  at  4.30  p.m.,  but 
letters'  may  be  posted  at  the  General 
Post  Office  up  to  6  p.m.,  and,  with  an 
extra  5  centimos  stamp,  up  to  7  o'clock. 
(See  General  Information. ) 

Telegraph  Office.— Calle  del  Correo  ; 
also  Calle  Juan  de  Mena,  2,  and  at 
sub-postal  offices. 

British  Embassy.  —  Calle  Torija  9. 
Hours,  from  1  to  3. 

U.S.A.  Legation. — Plaza  San  Mar- 
tin 3. 

Church  of  England  Service. — Calle 
Leganitos  4.      Sundays,  8.30,  11.30, 


4  ;  Saints'  Days,  8  ;  Chaplain,  Uev. 
R.  H.  Whereat.  Spanish  Presbyterian 
Service  upon  the  piso  above  ;  twice  on 
Sundays.  Spanish  Protestant  Church 
and  Schools,  Calle  Beneficencia,  18. 

Directoby. 

Tourist  Office. — Thos.  Cook  and  Son, 
Carrera  de  San  Geronimo  5.  Railway 
and  steamship  agents.  Banking  and 
exchange  and  general  information 
office.  Reading  Room.  Telegraphic 
address,  'Cook,  Madrid.' 

Antiquities,  dealers  in. — Carrera  de 
San  Geronimo  44 ;  Calle  del  Prado 
20. 

Apothecaries. — Coipel,  Barquillo  1  ; 
Moreno  (mineral  waters),  Calle  Mayor 
73 ;  Gayosa,  Arenal  2.  English  pre- 
scriptions made  up. 

Bankers. — Banco  de  Espaiia,  Head 
offices,  corner  of  the  Alcala  and  Salon 
del  Prado ;  Thos.  Cook  and  Son,  5, 
Carrera  de  San  Ger6nimo ;  Credit 
Lyonnais,  Puerta  del  Sol  10. 

Baths. — Arabes,  Velazquez  29  :  very 
good  ;  De  Oriente,  Plaza  de  Isabel  II. 
1 ;  Del  Norte,  Calle  Aduana  25,  and 
Jardines  16 ;  Niagara,  Cuesta  de  San 
Vicente  14 ;  Regiamar,  Gorguera  14 ; 
Barquillo,  47. 

Booksellers. — Fernando  F6,  Carrera 
de  San  Ger6nimo  2 ;  Romo  y  Fiissel, 
Alcala  5  ;  Bailly-Bailliere,  Plaza  Santa 
Ana  10. 

Dentists. —  Cadwallader,  Alcala  2; 
Heddy,  Alcala  35. 

Diligences.— -General  Office,  Alcala 
13. 

Doctors.  —  P.  W.  Hauser,  Zorilla, 
33;  R.  M.  Fenn,  C.  Quintana  26; 
Robert,  C.  de  Peligros  1.  Homoeopathic, 


MADRID. 


303 


Hyscrn,  Plaza  de  Jesus  8 ;  Nuflez, 
HabaDa  3.  Usual  fee,  10  pesetas  if 
consulted  at  home,  20  pesetas  if  sent 
for. 

Fancy  Shops. — Hip61ito  Bach,  Calle 
Alcala  52 ;  Escribano,  Carrera  de  San 
Ger6nimo  8. 

Antiquities.  —  A  good  shop  in  the 
Carrera  San  Ger6nimo  (44) ;  also  at 
16  Calle  Hortaleza. 

Glovers. — Magdalena,  C.  del  Arenal 
15  ;  Gely  y  Compaiiia,  Puerta  del  Sol 
10. 

Grocer,  Wine  Merchant,  etc — Prats, 
in  the  Calle  Arenal. 

Hairdresser.— P.  Genaro,  Puerta  del 
Sol  14. 

Hatters. — Gayan,  Puerta  del  Sol  4; 
Guevara,  Alcald  4. 

Jewellers.  —  Ansorena,  Carrera  de 
San  Geronimo  2 ;  for  Toledo  work, 
several  good  shops  in  the  Calle 
Arenal ;  also  Loyola,  Carrera  San 
Ger6nimo  39. 

Masters. — Fencing:  Broutin,  Plaza 
del    Bey   5.      Music:    Mas,   Carretas 

22  (guitar)  ;  Inzenga,  DesengaSio  22 
(Spanish  songs,  etc.)  Spanish:  Cor- 
nelias,   Carbon    8 ;   Caballero,    Alcala 

23  ;  Giner,  Obelisco  8. 

Manila  shawls  and  fans.  —  Serra, 
Caballero  de  Gracia  15.) 

Mantillas,  etc. — Almagro,  Calle  de  la 
Cruz  38-42. 

Modistes.  —  Matilde,  Alcala  38  ; 
Koch,  Caballero  de  Gracia  17. 


Artificial    flowers,      Kuhn,     Cruz 


42, 


Money  changers.  —  Several  in  the 
Puerta  del  Sol,  also  Cook  and  Son, 
and  the  Credit  Lyonnais. 


Music  -  seller. — Romero,   Capellanes 


10. 


Optician. — Grasselli,  Montera  5. 

Perfumers.  —  Villalon,  Fuencarral 
29 ;  Perfumeria  Inglesa,  Carrera  de 
San  Ger6nimo  3. 

Photographers. — Napoleon,  Principe 
14.  For  views  of  Spain  and  the  Museo 
pictures,  Romo  y  Fiissel,  Alcala  5 ; 
Hauser  y  Menet,  Ballesta  30. 

Shoemaker. — Cayatte,  Alcala  38. 

Stationer.  —  Rodriguez,  Calle  Car- 
retas 3. 

Tailors. — Roberts,  in  the  Calle  del 
Prado  ;  Isern,  San  Geronimo  16. 

Omnibuses  and  Trams  ply  from 
and  to  the  different  railway  stations, 
and  along  all  the  principal  streets. 

Special  omnibuses  run  to  the  princi- 
pal trains  from  the  Despacho  Central 
in  the  Alcala,  No.  14,  for  the  Southern 
railway,  from  the  Despacho  Central, 
Puerta  del  Sol  9,  for  the  Northern 
Railway.  Fares,  2  reals :  luggage,  up 
to  40  kils.,  25  centimos ;  for  every 
fraction  of  10  kils.  over  40  kils.,  12 
centimos. 

Private  omnibuses,  of  6  seats,  may 
be  hired  d  domicilio  for  4  pesetas  until 
midnight,  and  6  pesetas  from  midnight 
until  6  A.M.  100  kils.  of  luggage  free. 
For  every  fraction  of  10  kils.  in  excess, 
4  reals. 

Cabstands  are  to  be  found  in  the 
Puerta  del  Sol  and  many  of  the  prin- 


w 


304 


MADRID. 


cipal  streets  and  plazas.  When  un- 
occupied a  small  tin  card  is  stuck 
up  on  the  corner,  with  the  words  se 
alquila.  The  tariff's  are  arranged,  as 
at  Barcelona,  in  zones  (Unities),  1st 
zone,  2nd  zone,  3rd  zone  : — 


Fares. — 1 -horse  cabs  :  1-2  persons. 

.     Pes.  1.00 
,,    2.00 


Per  course,  1st  zone .     .     . 

2nd   ,,    .     . 

3rd  ,,  .  .  .  ,,3.00 
By  hour,  1st  hour  ...  ,,  2.00 
each  additional  J  hr.   , ,    0. 50 


tt 


it 


[For  all  zones  ;  but  if  dismissed  in 
3rd  zone,  a  return  fare  of  pes.  2  can 
be  demanded.] 

Same    conditions    for    every 

person  beyond  two     .     .     Pes.  0.50 

For  each  article  of  luggage 
carried  outside     .     .     .     .    ,,    0.50 

For  2-horse  cabs  1  peseta  beyond 
these  fares. 

Special  fares — bargaining  necessary 
— to  the  Plaza  de  Toros,  the  races, 
the  Estacion  de  las  Delicias,  etc.,  or 
for  places  without  the  3rd  zone.  No 
difference  between  day  and  night. 

N.B. — These  tariffs  are  liable  to 
variation  at  fair  time,  etc. 

Very  good  carriages,  with  horses  and 
well-appointed  coachmen  and  footmen 
(coehero  y  lacayo),  can  be  hired  at 
Oliva's,  Calle  don  if artin  57  and  Calle 
de  la  Quintana  14  ;  or  at  Hornilla's, 
Paseo  de  la  Castellana  10,  at  a  cost  of 
500-750  pesetas  per  month.  A  good 
riding  horse  costs  15  to  20  pesetas  per 
day.  Carriages  (calcches,  carretelas, 
etc.)  cost  about  15  pesetas  for  half  a 
day,  and  25  pesetas  for  a  whole  day. 

The  English  Cemeterylies  about  a  mile 
outside  the  city,  beyond  the  Puente  de 
Toledo.  It  is  just  one  acre  in  extent, 
and  prettily  laid  out. 

Oobierno  Civil. — Calle  Mayor  127. 
Open  from  10  A.M.  to  5  p.m.  Foreigners 
who  have  any  complaint  to  make  can 


apply  to  this  authority ;  but  if  to  re- 
cover lost  articles,  or  in  case  of  petty 
conflicts  and  difficulties  with  natives, 
apply  to  any  Inspector  de  Vigilancia, 
who  is  generally  civil,  may  be  intelli- 
gent, but  must  not  be  expected  to  be 
active. 

Environs. — Casa  de  Camjpo. — A 
royal  shooting-box,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Manzanares,  7  m.  in  circum- 
ference, begun  by  Charles  III.  The 
house  is  paltry ;  the  supply  of  water 
is  abundant,  and  there  are  some  fine 
avenues.  Drive  through  the  Calle 
Azul,  round  the  pond,  to  the  race- 
course, where  a  caricature  Derby  takes 
place  in  May.  Good  shooting.  Apply 
for  permit  to  visit  the  royal  country- 
houses  to  Intendcnte  de  la  Casa  Real. 
Visit  La  Moncloa,  to  which  place  the 
Buen  Retiro  porcelain-manufactory  was 
removed  by  Ferdinand  VII.  It  is 
situated  on  the  N.  of  the  city,  upon 
the  El  Pardo  carretera.  The  palace 
has  been  turned  into  a  school  of  agri- 
culture, but  with  only  moderate  success. 
El  Pardo. — Situated  2  leagues  N.W., 
on  left  bank  of  the  river.  There  has 
been  a  royal  palace  here  from  the  very 
earliest  days  of  Madrid's  ascendency, 
indeed  as  far  back  as  the  timo  of 
Enrique  III.,  ElDoliente.  The  present 
house,  however,  dates  only  from  the 
reign  of  Philip  III.,  at  the  beginning 
of  the  17th  century,  when  the  older 
pile  was  burned  down.  It  attained  to 
its  present  importance  in  the  time  of 
Charles  III.,  who  made  large  additions 
to  it.  Since  then  the  place  has  been 
a  favourite  Sitio  Heal,  from  the  excel- 
lence of  its  preserves  and  its  convenient 
position  near  the  capital.  The  shooting 
is  first-rate,  the  covers  being  about  40 
miles  in  circumference,  well  planted  and 
stocked.  There  are  not  many  objects 
of  interest  within  the  house,  but  the 
tapestries  after  designs  of  Goya  and 


MADRID. 


305 


Terriers  should  be  noticed  English 
visitors  who  have  seen  Ribalta's  superb 
Christ  bearing  the  Cross  (sometimes 
ascribed  to  Morales)  which  forms  the 
retablo  in  Magdalen  Chapel,  Oxford,  will 
be  interested  to  find  a  copy  of  it  here 
— in  the  royal  chapel. 

Alameda. — 1}  hr.  drive,  the  country- 
seat  of  Duke  of  Osuna ;  apply  for  per- 
mit to  his  head  steward.  Some  fine 
avenues;  the  gardens  well  supplied 
with  water.  Look  at  some  finely-carved 
groups  of  tauromachian  subjects,  also 
at  the  stables  and  grounds.  The  latter 
are,  however,  falling  into  a  bad  state. 

Los  Carabancheles. — Two  miserable 
villages,  one  de  arriba  and  the  other 
de  abajo,  where  some  Madrid  people 
have  had  the  courage  to  build  villas ; 
amongst  them  Countess  Montijo  ;  half 
an  hour's  drive  after  passing  the  fine 
bridge  of  Toledo.  There  is  a  tramway 
throughout,  with  frequent  cars,  and  the 
villages  form  a  great  resort  of  Madrid 
holiday- takers  of  the  lower  classes. 

Boadilla  del  Monte. — A  small  village 
with  a  rarely -visited  royal  residence, 
lying  about  4  leagues  from  the  capital, 
uear  Navalcarnero.  The  house  belonged 
at  one  time  to  the  infamous  Godoy.  the 
.'Prince  of  Peace/  and  contains  a  few 
Goyas  worth  seeing.  The  excursion  is 
not,  however,  one  to  be  undertaken  by 
the  ordinary  tourist. 


Distances  to  the  principal  villages 
near  Madrid. 

Alcorcon,  2  leagues,  and  road  to 
Badajoz. 

Alcovendas,  3  leagues,  road  to 
Bayonne. 

Arganda,  4  leagues,  excellent  crimson 
red  wine. 


Algete,  5  leagues,  estates  and  pad- 
docks of  Duque  del  Sesto. 

Barajas,  2  leagues.  Good  shooting 
— hares  and  partridges* 

Batres,  5  leagues. 

Baztan,  6  leagues. 

Canillejas,  1\  league. 

Carabanchel  Alto,  }  league.  Vide 
supra. 

Carabanchel  Bajo,  J  league.  Vide 
supra. 

Cabanillas,  9  leagues.  Road  to 
Bayonne ;  some  shooting. 

Chamartin,  1  league.  A  dilapidated 
villa  of  Duque  de  Osuna,  where  Na- 
poleon lodged. 

Chinchon,  6  leagues. 

Fuencarral,  1£  league.  Eggs  sold  at 
Madrid  come  'frescos  de  Fuencarral,' 
where  they  perhaps  were  hatched  for 
months  before. 

Hortaleza,  1J  league.  As  former,  on 
Bayonne  road  ;  large  village. 

Leganes,  1  f  league.   Lunatic  Asylum. 

Loeches,  5  leagues.    Mineral  spring. 

Molar  (el),  7  leagues.   Mineral  spring. 

Navalcarnero,  5  leagues.  Excellent 
common  red  wine. 

Pesadilla,  8}  leagues.  Good  shoot- 
ing ;  Sotos,  especially  that  of  Sr.  D. 
Andrews  Caballero. 

Romanillos,  4  leagues.  Estates  of 
Duque  de  Alba ;  wolf-hunting,  a  qjeo 
in  winter. 

Torrejon  de  Ardoz,  3  leagues.  Site 
of  battle  won  by  Marshal  Narvaez  over 
the  Carlists. 

Vacia  Madrid,  3  leagues. 

Vallecas,  1£  league.     Fossil  deposits. 

Valverde,  5J  leagues. 

Vicalvaro,  1  league.  Battle  won, 
1854,  by  Marshal  O'Donnell,  against 
the  San  Luis  Government  generals. 

Villaviciosa,  8  leagues.  Some  sum- 
mer villas,  good  climate.  Escuela  de 
Ingenieros  de  Montes. 


X 


Y 


306 


MALAGA. 


^t»W  *•»-<*» 


Malaga.— Capital  of  province  of  same 
name  ;  bishop's  see,  and  a  trading  sea- 
port;  pop.  160,300. 

Boutes  and  Conveyance  from 
or  to  Madrid.  By  rail 
throughout ;  and  thus :  Ma- 
drid to  Cordova,  about  12 
hrs.  ;  fares,  pes.  50.85  and  pes.  39.40. 
Cordova  to  Malaga,  time  6  hrs. ;  pes. 
24. 45  and  pes.  1 8. 35.    Two  trains  a  day. 

This  is  the  most  direct  route  between 
Madrid  and  Malaga.  The  scenery  is 
not  devoid  of  interest.  The  principal 
town  on  the  way  is  Mantilla. 

Description  of  Route. — Shortly  after 
leaving  C6rdova,   the   Guadalquivir  is 
crossed  on  a  sheet-iron  bridge,  resting  on 
tubular  piers  17  metres  high.     The  in- 
signiiicantGuadajocillo  stream  is  crossed 
three    times,    and    Fernan  Nufiez    is 
reached — a    small  insignificant   town, 
6000  inhabitants,  with  an  old  *  palacio, ' 
the  property  of  the  duke  of  that  name. 
Ascending  slightly,  we  soon  get  to  Mon- 
tilla,  15,000  inhabitants  ;  a  very  strik- 
ingly situated  town,  rising  on  two  hills, 
from  which  the  view  is  very  extensive. 
See  for  details  on  the  celebrated  wine 
produced  here,   C6rdova:   Excursions, 
and  General  Information  :   Wine.     On 
leaving,  the  Rio  Cabra  is  crossed,  and 
Aguilar  is  reached,   a  small  town  of 
12,000   inhabitants,    near    which    are 
some  estates  belonging  to  the  wealthy 
house  of  Medinaceli.     Excellent  wines, 
which   go  by   the  name  of  Montilla. 
An    interesting     though     dilapidated 
Moorish  castle  ;  close  to  it,  upon  a  hill, 
stands  the  Castillo  de  Anzur,  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Duke  of  Medinaceli.     The 
Genii  is  crossed  shortly  after  leaving 
the  stream  of  Puente  Genii,  on  an  iron 
bridge.      Here  (Puente   Genii)  is  the 


junction  of  the  railway  from  Espeluy, 
vid  Jaen,  chiefly  useful  for  a  visit  to  the 
latter  place.  Close  to  stream  and  town 
of  Fuente  de  Piedra  are  some  curious 
petrifying  springs.  On  right  of  stream,  a 
small  salt-water  lake,  16  kil.  circuit ;  on 
left,  a  lofty  hill ;  on  the  opposite  side, 
the  fertile  *  Campifia '  of  Antequera. 

Bobadilla,  —  Branches  to  Granada 
and  to  Gibraltar  vid  Ronda.  The 
Guadalhorce  is  crossed,  and  a  tuunel 
360  met.  long  leads  to  Gobantes, 
Coach  from  here  to  the  much  fre 
quented  baths  of  Carratraca  (sulphur 
ous,  64°  Fahr.)  14  miles.  Good  hotels 
cafes  and  casino.  Some  10  kil.  W. 
another  road  leads  across  the  Sierra  de 
Penarubia  to  the  town  (4000  inhabi- 
tants) and  estates  of  Teba,  the  apanage 
of  the  late  Empress  of  the  French,  who 
is  Condesa  de  Teba.  The  wines  pro- 
duced in  its  vicinity  are  very  like  that 
of  Jerez.  There  are  some  tracts  of  wild 
scenery,  especially  the  rocky  '  Hoyo,'  a 
little  beyond  this  last  stream,  and  a 
series  of  tunnels,  5000  m.  long,  are 
successively  traversed.  Iron  and  stone 
viaducts,  tunnels,  and  other  extensive 
and  costly  works,  have  been  required  to 
overcome  the  difficulties  offered  by  the 
nature  of  the  country.  On  leaving  the 
last  tunnel,  a  beautiful  orange -growing 
valley  is  traversed,  succeeded  shortly 
after  leaving  station  ofAlora  by  others, 
planted,  besides,  with  citron  trees,  pome- 
granates, etc.  Pizarra,  3600  inhab. 
Travellers  driving  to  Ronda  or  Carra- 
traca, when  proceeding  from  Malaga,  take 
a  road  which  leads  from  this  station, 
2  hrs.  Close  to  Vartama,  an  ancient 
but  now  most  insignificant  town  on  a 
hill,  may  be  seen  the  ruins  of  an  old 
fortress.  The  soil  around  is  very  fertile. 


MAT.AttA. 


307 


At  Malaga,  station  'buses  in  attend- 
ance ;  lr.  per  traveller ;  2r.  with  luggage. 
From  Seville. — By  rail 
to  Cordova,  whence  ut 
supra ;  also  direct,  vid  Ut- 
rera,  La  Eoda  and  Bobadilla,  in  6  hrs. 
From  Jaen. — See  Cdrdova. 
From  Granada. — By  rail  to  station 
of  Bobadilla,  whence  by  rail  direct. 
See  Granada. 

From    Cadiz.  —  By   land, 
riding   by    Gibraltar.      See 
Gibraltar.      By  rail    Utrera 
and  Bobadilla,  ut  supra,  or  by  Cordova. 

By  Sea. — Lopez's  steam- 
ers  (Compania  Trasatlan- 
tica)  leave  Cadiz  on  the  1st  and  16th  of 
each  month.  Time  about  15  hrs. 
Office  of  the  Company  at  Cadiz,  Isabel 
la  Catolica  3.  The  Compagnie  Havraise 
Peninsulaire  run  a  boat  every  ten  days 
or  so ;  and  the  steamers  of  the  John 
Hall  (London)  line  can  be  recom- 
mended. These  boats  run  weekly, 
touching  at  Gibraltar :  agents  in 
Malaga,  Crooke  Bros.,  Alameda  15. 
For  the  frequent  alterations  in  sail- 
ings, fares,  and  also  for  other  less 
regular  steam  communication,  see 
time-tables  and  announcements  in  the 
papers,  or  inquire  at  the  offices  of  the 
various  agents. 

From  Alicante,  etc.—  By  the  steamers 
of  the  Compania  Trasatlantica,  twice  a 
month ;  and  of  the  Compagnie  Hispano- 
Francaise,  weekly. 

From  Gibraltar.  —  See  Gibraltar,  6 
to  8  hours'  voyage. 

Generally  speaking  there  is  a  pretty 
constant  service  between  Malaga  and 
the  chief  English  ports  (London  and 
Liverpool,  etc.),  and  also  between  Ma- 
laga and  the  ports  of  the  Mediterranean 
and  Atlantic — Lisbon,  Cadiz,  Barce- 
lona, Cartagena,  Almeria,  Tarragona, 
Marseilles,  Genoa  and  Leghorn,  etc. 
etc.      For   particulars  apply   to   the 


various  agents  in  Malaga,  Roos,  Calle 
de  la  Bolsa,  Crooke  Brothers,  Clemens 
and  Petersen,  Mowbray  and  Co.,  or 
consult  daily  papers.  There  are  likewise 
larger  occasional  steamers  to  Gibraltar, 
London,  Liverpool,  Hamburg,  Havre, 
and  the  Galician  ports,  such  as  the 
Cunard  boats  and  the  steamers  of  the 
French  Compagnie  Transatlantique 
(Agent,  J.  Roos,  Calle  de  la  Bolsa). 

N.B. — Unless  taking  a  thoroughly 
well-known  line  we  advise  travellers 
to  visit  the  steamers  before  taking 
tickets,  or  else  they  are  very  likely  to 
find  themselves  on  board  small,  dirty, 
and  unseaworthy  crafts,  with  but 
scanty  room  and  comfort  for  human 
cargoes. 

From  Carratraca  (see  p.  306),  daily 
coach  during  the  season.  From  Ronda 
by  rail  vid  Bobadilla  (change) ;  two 
trains  daily ;  fares,  1st  cl.  pes.  17.90 ; 
2d  cl.  pes.  13.40.  Travellers  may  take 
up  dil.  at  St.  of  Gobantes,  1  hour 
from  Malaga.  Beautiful  scenery  in  the 
vicinity.  (See  General  Information  : 
Mineral  Springs. ) 

To  Churriana,  etc.  To  Churriana, 
small  dil.  daily.  To  and  from  the 
Palo,  tramway  every  ten  minutes  (El 
Palo,  the  terminus). 


Climate. — This  city,  one  of  the  most 
cosmopolitan  in  the  Peninsula,  is  situ- 
ated 36°  43'  lat.  N„  and  4°  25'  long.  W. 
of  Greenwich. 

Malaga  constitutes  one  of  the  most 
important  medical  stations  in  the  world, 
and  must  necessarily  become  better  ap- 
preciated as  it  is  better  known. 

Situation.— Its  very  situation  is  most 
favourable  to  constitute  a  good  climate. 
Malaga  lies  opened  to  the  fresh  breezes 
from  the  E.  and  to  the  warm  S.,  whilst 
it  is  absolutely  screened  from  the  N. 
by  its  lofty  hills.  To  the  W.  it  is 
somewhat  exposed  to  the  north-western 


308 


MALAGA — CLIMATE. 


terral  (the  French  mistral  and  the 
Italian  tramcmUnia),  which  is  ushered 
in  through  the  Boca  del  Asno,  a  gap 
in  the  Sierra  de  Torcal ;  but  even  that 
wind  is  not  pernicious,  but  dry  and 
stimulating  at  all  seasons. 

TEMPERATURE  OF  MALAGA 

According  to  Fahrenheit's  Thermometer  placed 
in  the  open  street,  in  the  shade,  and  facing 
the  North. 


at 

8  A.M. 

2  P.M. 

II  P.M. 

Nov.  i. 

■53# 

59* 

54° 

„   8. 

60 

65 

60 

ii  i5- 

60 

69 

55 

*i  23. 

47 

61 

50 

11  3°- 

58 

63 

49 

Dec.  x. 

Si 

64 

54 

»      7- 

56 

72 

56 

11  15 

52 

59 

50 

„  2a 

47 

50 

5i 

11  26. 

42 

54 

4i 

•1  3*- 

47 

52 

49 

Jan.  1. 

44 

5o 

40 

11   8. 

52 

61 

5i 

11  15. 

51 

59 

49 

„  22. 

53 

65 

5i 

11  31- 

52 

64 

52 

Feb.  1. 

53 

64 

5i 

„   8. 

53 

65 

54 

„  16. 

5i 

64 

5o 

11  *7- 

56 

68 

55 

11  21. 

52 

59 

52 

11  23. 

59 

70 

56 

,,  28. 

53 

56 

53 

It  is  only  during  June,  July,  August,  and 
September,  that  the  temperature  is  too  warm 
to  be  agreeable,  the  thermometer  then  ranging 
from  72'  to  94*  (Fahr.)  steady  heat.  The  ordi- 
nary temperature  is  mild  and  moderately  dry 
and  bracing.  There  is  nothing  noxious  in  the 
atmosphere.  There  are  absolutely  no  endemic 
diseases.  The  great  advantage  of  this  climate 
is,  that  invalids  or  delicate  persons,  who  at  home 
would  be  confined  to  their  houses,  can  here  be 
out  in  the  open  air  almost  every  day  during  the 
winter.  The  above  observations  have  been 
kindly  communicated  to  the  author  by  Dr. 
Shortliff 

Winds. — The  most  frequently  ob- 
served are  the  following,  in  their  order 
of  rotation :  E.,  S.E.,  S.,  S.W.,  W., 
N.E.,  and  N.N.E.  The  E.,  or  levante, 
is  always  charged  with  moisture,  as  it 


sweeps  across  the  sea  ;  it  tempers  the 
summer  heat,  and  is  cold  in  winter, 
but  not  lasting  then.  The  S.W.,  or 
vendabcti,  is  cold  and  damp  in  winter, 
and  is  precursory  of  rain  and  storms, 
more  especially  in  autumn  and  spring ; 
but  during  the  summer  it  is  soft  and 
cool,  and  takes  another  name — viz. 
leveche,  or  brisa  del  sur.  The  S.E. 
blows  seldom :  when  it  does  with  any 
violence,  the  sea  becomes  rough,  and 
squalls  come  on.  The  N.W.,  or  terral, 
is  the  land-wind,  and  is  often  ushered 
in  by  the  western.  It  is  rare,  but  pro- 
duces great  excitement  in  the  nervous 
system  ;  and  so  much  so,  that  courts  of 
law  consider  it  as  a  circonstance  aitenu- 
ante  in  cases  of  crime.  During  the 
winter  it  is  generally  cold  and  pierc- 
ing, but  sometimes  changes  suddenly  to 
warm. 


Anemography 

of  ; 

Malaga. 

* 

Months. 

3 

W 

X 

*+ 
3 

• 

a 

0 

w 

w 

CO 

0 

CO 

£ 

& 

& 

fc 

January 
Feb.  . 

65 

23 

31 

54 

68 

18 

42 

25 

40 

17 

25 

76 

«5 

90 

33 

14 

March. 

70 

43 

44 

61 

61 

85 

57 

10 

April  . 
May  . 

45 

47 

53 

52 

62 

90 

22 

49 

88 

33 

32 

60 

82 

71 

25 

26 

June  . 
July  . 

147 

64 

42 

76 

61 

47 

15 

4 

142 

59 

45 

63 

53 

39 

42 

37 

August 

133 

70 

32 

59 

5i 

38 

28 

47 

Sept.  . 

112 

53 

30 

55 

58 

57 

44 

39 

Oct.  . 

64 

43 

56 

59 

61 

87 

40 

33 

Nov.  . 

52 

36 

25 

53 

60 

94 

49 

40 

Dec.  . 

30 
988 

29 
5i7 

429 

46 
714 

77 
779 

148 
858 

46 
443 

23 
347 

Days 

The  rotatory  motion  of  the  winds  is 
accomplished  with  great  regularity.  If 
the  "W.  wind  blows  in  the  morning,  it 
almost  invariably  turns  towards  mid- 
day, either  to  KW.,  K,  or  N.E.  ;  and 
when  the  evening  comes  in,  will  change 
again  to  E.,  then  S.E.,  then  S.    In  a 

*  Deduced  from  the  observations  of  nine  suc- 
ceeding years,  made  and  published  by  Doctor 
Martinez  y  Montes. 


MALAGA — CLIMATE. 


309 


word,  we  must  observe — 1.  The  anta- 
gonism between  the  sea  and  land  winds; 
2.  The  prevalence  of  the  former  dur- 
ing spring  and  summer  ;  3.  The  preva- 
lence of  the  latter  in  autumn  and 
winter.  The  air  is  generally  dry  and 
bracing. 

Temperature. — The  average  annual 
temperature  observed  during  nine 
years,  by  Doctor  Martinez  y  Months, 
was  by  him  represented  (centigrade 
thermometer)  thus — 


Winter     . 

13-12 

Spring 

20.28 

Summer  . 

26.88 

Autumn  . 

16.28 

The  following  table  gives  the  thermo- 
metrical  (Fahrenheit)  maximum  and 
minimum  readings  for  the  year  1893, 
taken  in  the  shade  on  a  north  wall : — 


i 

Maximum. 

Minimum. 

January 

68.5 

40 

February 

72.0 

49 

March  . 

76.0 

52 

April     . 

87.0 

53 

May 

94.0 

56 

June     . 

104.4 

65 

July      .        . 

122.0 

69 

August 

.    103.0 

7i 

September    . 

.      94.0 

64 

October 

87.0 

60 

November    . 

70.0 

52 

December     . 

70.0 

49 

The  mean  winter  temperature  may  be 
taken  at  55°  Fahr.  Thus  Malaga  is  6° 
warmer  than  Rome,  7°  than  Nice,  8°  than 
Pisa,  13°  than  Pau,  15°  than  London. 
But  it  also  is  6°  colder  than  Madeira,  4° 
than  Cairo,  3°  than  Malta.  The  mean 
temperature  of  spring  is  6255,  being 
identical  with  Malta  and  Madeira,  but 
5*  warmer  than  Rome  or  Pisa,  and  8° 
than  Pau.  *  The  mean  annual  range 
is  49,  many  degrees  less  than  any  other 
place  on  the  Continent ;  that  at  Pau 
being  68° ;  at  Rome,  62°  ;  [at  Nice,  60°. 
The  range  of  Madeira,  however,  is  only 
81°.     The  mean  daily  range  amounts 


to  4*1  only,  and  in  this  respect  tb<» 
climate  is  superior  to  any  tnai  has 
been  noticed ;  the  daily  range  of  Ma- 
deira being  94° ;  of  Rome,  10° ;  of 
Nice,  9°.'  (Dr.  E.  Lee,  Spain  and  its 
Climates,) 

The  more  recent  details  here  given 
are  from  the  records  of  Dr.  Visick, 
resident  physician.  The  great  feature 
of  the  climate  is  its  sunniness.  It  may 
be  said  that  constant  sunshine  is  a 
characteristic  of  Malaga.  A  day  on 
which  the  sun  does  not  shine  at  all 
is  very  unusual,  especially  in  No- 
vember, December,  and  January.  In 
February  and  March  the  air  is  less  dry, 
and  a  few  cloudy  and  overcast  days 
generally  occur ;  but  even  of  these 
days  a  portion  is  frequently  bright  and 
clear. 

Dryness  of  Air. — There  are  not  dur- 
ing the  whole  year  more  than  ten  days 
on  which  rain  would  prevent  an  invalid 
from  taking  exercise.  It  is  the  extreme 
dryness  of  the  air  that  seems  to  be  the 
most  remarked  feature  in  the  climate 
of  Malaga ;  and  it  is  this  which  renders 
it  for  many  invalids  much  superior  to 
Madeira,  which,  although  warmer  by 
some  degrees  in  the  middle  of  winter, 
is  very  damp  and  relaxing.  (For  com- 
parison with  temperature  of  principal 
medical  stations,  see  General  Informa* 
tion  :  Climate.)  From  this  table  it  will 
be  seen  that  it  is  only  2°  lower  than 
Malta,  and  5°  than  Madeira,  for  the 
mean  winter  and  spring  temperature — 
being  higher  than  all  the  most  cele- 
brated places  in  Europe,  and,  indeed, 
in  spring  it  is  5^°  higher  than  even 
Malta  and  Madeira.  The  thermometer 
seldom  or  never  falls  to  0°  ;  and  as  to 
snow,  the  oldest  inhabitants  hardly  re- 
member to  have  ever  seen  it. 

It  rains  now  but  seldom ;   and  the 
evaporation  is  so  great  that  the  rain 


310 


MALAGA— CLIMATF 


that  fails  has  no  influence  on  the  air,  ' 
and,  to  be  abundant,  a  shock,  or  strong 
contrast  between  the  E.  and  W.  winds, 
or  between  the  E.  and  S.W.,  is  neces- 
sary. During  nine  years  it  has  rained 
only  262  times,  being  an  average  of  39 
rainy  days  in  the  year ;  the  quantity 
fallen  measuring  405  mill  Now,  the 
number  of  rainy  days  (yearly)  at 
Madeira  is  70 ;  at  Borne  and  Naples, 
twice  as  much  as  at  Malaga ;  and  at 
Pisa,  far  beyond.  The  sky  is  clear  and 
limpid  all  the  year  round  ;  and  the  sky 
of  the  Campagna  of  Rome,  the  heaven 
of  Greece,  is  nothing  compared  to  the 
splendours  of  the  gold  and  purple  at- 
mosphere in  which  the  sunset  bathes 
this  favoured  city.  Now,  during  the 
above  nine  years,  the  state  of  the  at- 
mosphere was — 

Clear  .  1974  times. 

Cloudy     .        .  691    „ 

Rainy       .        .  262    ,, 
Light  Clouds   .      988    „ 
Foggy  or  misty        16 
Tempestuous   . 

The  annual  mean  is  16*5.  The 
greater  proportionate  amount  of  rain, 
says  Dr.  Lee,  falling  in  the  autumnal 
months. 

The  year  1893  was  exceptionally  wet. 
The  days  on  which  rain  fell — sometimes 
very  few  drops,  but  yet  rain  —  were 
forty-four : — 

January  .  6  days.  July .  .  None. 

February  .3     ,,  August       .  2  days. 

March  .  5     „  September .  4     „ 

April    .  .  6     ,,  October      .5     „ 

May    .  .  2     ,,  November .  6     ,, 

June    .  .  1  day.  December .  4     „ 

Of  these,  two  days  were  really  bad, 
and  there  were  sixteen  on  which  the 
rain  could  be  called  abundant. — (Dr. 
Visick's  Record  for  1893.) 

Influence  of  this  Climate  on  Health 
and  Disease. — The  characteristics  of  the 
climate  are — great  dryness  of  the  air 
and  trifling  fall  of  rain,  high  winter 
temperature,  absence  of  pernicious  winds 


„    in  9  years  (!) 
3    >,    (0 


and  storms,  prevalence  of  bright  and 
clear  weather.  The  houses  are  generally 
badly  prepared  against  the  heat ;  the 
choice  of  a  house,  its  aspect,  etc.,  are 
therefore  important.  The  changes  be- 
tween diurnal  and  nocturnal  tempera- 
ture are  often  pernicious  to  very  deli- 
cate nervous  constitutions.  The  terraX 
produces  excitation  both  in  healthy 
and  sick  persons,  and  aggravates 
phthisical  affections;  and  cerebral 
congestions  often  arise,  inducing,  more- 
over, paralysis.  The  levanter  produces 
different  kinds  of  neurosis,  and,  by  sup- 
pressing the  transpiration,  predisposes 
to  affections  of  the  digestive  organs. 
The  mortality  tables  in  the  hospital 
for  nine  years  show  the  following 
cases : — 

Gastro-ataxic  and  typhoid  fevers      .         .90 
Apoplexy  and  chronic  cerebral  affections        64 

Phthisis 239 

Chronic  affections  of  the  digestive  organs      332 
Dysentery  ...         •  .87 

Dropsy .259 

Wounds .142 

Phthisis  and  chronic  diseases  of  the 
respiratory  organs  constitute  about  a 
ninth  part  of  the  whole  mortality  in  the 
town  and  hospital.  This  climate  is 
advantageous  to  already  consumptive 
persons,  calculated  as  it  is  to  retard 
the  manifestation  of  serious  symptoms, 
but  it  also  weakens  and  morbifies,  if  we 
could  so  say,  the  healthy  tubercle,  and 
often  causes  the  disease  among  the 
younger  portion  of  the  population  and 
higher  classes  especially,  opposing  no 
invigorating  influence,  but  on  the  con- 
trary, aiding  the  debility  and  annihila- 
tion which  may  be  caused  by  excesses, 
there  being  a  great  and  continual  ex 
pense  of  life  in  this  hothouse  tempera- 
ture. 

Opinion  of  Dr.  Ed.  Lee. — A  winter  resid- 
ence would  be  advantageous  in  many  of  the 
cases  of  deteriorated  health  and  functional  dis- 
order of  the  digestive  apparatus.  In  all  com- 
plaints referable  to  nervous  excitation,  in  dis- 


of  the  h. 


t   prcjudit 


!-[■.■  climate  nf  Malaga  would 
al  [Inn  otherwise.     On  the 

many  Cases  of  chronic:  gout  and  rheumatism 
unattended  by  vascular  e suitability  ;  As  also  in 
scrofulous  complaints,  and  in  the  sequela  of  inter- 
ri]ii:-at  fever-  an.:  other  diseases  of  a  ra:variij\LS 


tropical    i 


unhealthy   localitie 


stage,  in  such  subject.  Dr.  Lee  prefers  Ma- 
deira, Pau,  or  Pisa,  that  of  Malaga  being,  he 
thinks,     "particularly    calculated     to    remedy 

tictils   either  present    no    pe'iill.ir    rM.ilLdUil-.Ly 


:uch  patients  might  confidently  look  for- 
o  a  permanent  cure.    Chronic  coughs, 
:inds  of  asthma,  will   be  also  speedily 
nr  at  least  considerably  alleviated. 
liatsfDr.  F..  CwwnwIofEaiu  Bonnes, 


lurselves  travelled  fror 
in  phthisis,  and  appar 
withoi 


d  Malaga  to  those, 
hemic  to  Malaga 


Ivnifl^tie 
,1  sim'.il:, 
is   chislly 


.la,  this 


highly  beneficial. 

period  thai  it  must  oe  resorted  to.  me  sojourn 
may  extend  from  the  end  of  October  to  the  end 
of  April,  and,  if  benefited,  the  invalid  may  com- 
plete the  sea.™  at  Granada-May  and  June: 
or  at  Ronda.  Invalid- should  chouse  a  southern 
aspect,  to  avoid  the  N.W,  lirral.  The  mor- 
tality tables  show  1.17  in  the  city  (i860],  of 
which  19  out  or  5468  died  aged  between  91  and 

Invalids  should  avoid  outdoor  exercise  after 
sunset,  and  select  a  residence  with  a  good 
aspect,  and  by  no  means  one  exposed  to  the 
N.W.  winds. 


Hotels.—  Grand  Hotel  de  Soma, 
on  the  shady  fashionable  promenade  of 
the  Alameda.  A  fine  large  house,  with 
good  exposure ;  Luis  Cavagliani,  good 
guide  and  interpreter.  Enylissj  [aptrs 
taken  in.  Pension  from  pes.  10  up- 
wards, according  to  position  of  rooms. 

Hotel  de  Paris,  Calle  Marques  da 
Larios.  Small,  but  com  fortable ;  prices 
from  8  pes. 

Hotel  Huevo  Victoria,  Calle  Marques 
do  I^rios  ;  very  Spanish,  but  clean. 
Cooking  fair.  People  very  civil ;  prices 
from  6  pes. 


Lodgings  may  be  obtained  at  reason- 
able rates,  and  an  excellent  boarding- 
house  lias  been  opened  by  D.  Fernando 
de  la  Camara,  Paseo  de  Sancha,  Calcta. 

Cafis  and  Restaurants. — Cafilnglii, 
4  Calle  Marques  de  Larios ;  De  la 
Lota,  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  ;  Del 
Siylo ;  the  American,  Bar,  C.  del 
Marques  de  Larios. 

,    Cor- 


312 


MALAGA. 


Continental  periodicals,  billiard-rooms, ' 
etc.  Introduction  by  members  for 
seven  days.  Oirculo  Mercantil,  a  large 
club  ;  introduction  as  above.  Foreign 
papers  and  library.  El  Liceo :  centre 
for  meetings  and  entertainments. 
Several  other  social  and  art  circles — 
such  as  the  Sociedad  FHarmdnica,  etc., 
to  which  an  introduction  is  readily 
obtainable. 

For  Post  Office,  Telegraph  Office 
and  Directory,  see  p.  317. 

General  Description. — Malaga  lies 
pleasantly  in  a  rich  and  fertile  plain, 
and  extends  its  straggling  rows  of  low, 
whitewashed  houses  around  the  bay, 
which  the  Punta  of  Los  Cantales  bounds 
to  the  E.,  and  the  old  Tower  of  Pimen- 
tel  to  the  "W.  It  is  situated  facing  the 
blue  Mediterranean  and  its  busy  port, 
with  its  back  against  the  range  of  hills 
and  mountains  which  surround  it  to  the 
N.E.,  N.,  and  W.,  and  rise  as  a  pro- 
tecting rampart  against  the  cold  icy 
blasts  from  those  regions. 

To  the  west  and  north-west  of  the  city 
extends  a  verdant  plateau  some  10  m.  in 
extent,  which  bears  all  the  varied  and 
most  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  African 
and  American  climes.  This  Vega  or 
Halla,  teeming  with  the  sugar-cane,  the 
vine,  the  palm,  the  olive,  the  orange, 
etc.,  rivals  the  huertas  of  Valencia  and 
Murcia.  Beyond  it  the  ground  loses  its 
plainer  surface,  and  becomes  hilly ;  then 
gradually  ascending,  cerros,  embosom- 
ing charming  valleys,  peaks  precipitous 
and  rocky,  appear,  as  the  first  and 
lower  steps  of  the  vast  Sierras,  pregnant 
with  rich  metals  and  precious  marbles. 
To  the  "W".,  Malaga  is  traversed  from  N. 
to  S.  by  the  Guadalmedina  (Arabic, 
Kiver-of-the-city),  a  narrow  and  shallow 
stream,  which  in  winter  is  generally 
crossed  on  foot,  and  beomes  the  usual 
thoroughfare  for  diligences  ;  but,  when 
the  mountain-snows  begin  to  thaw  under 
a  tropical  sun,  it  is  converted  into  an 


impetuous  torrent,  carries  away  bridges 
and  houses,  and  inundates  the  lower 
portions  of  the  town  and  environs.  It 
divides  the  city  about  the  popular  '  Bar- 
rio del  Perchel'  (which  is  mentioned  in 
*  Don  Quixote  ')  from  that  of  La  Trini- 
dad. To  the  E.,  on  a  high,  imposing, 
chalky  hill,  rises  the  Moorish  citadel, 
the  Gibralfaro.  The  best  views  of  the 
city  are  obtained,  first,  from  the  bay  and 
summit  of  the  lighthouse ;  second,  front 
the  Granada  road.  The  interior  of  the 
city  we  can  divide  into  the  older  and 
newer  portions.  We  must  notice  in  the 
former,  which  occupies  the  higher  part, 
and  lies  more  away  from  the  sea,  the 
sombre,  winding,  narrow  streets,  the 
few  and  irregular  plazas  ;  the  low,  dark 
houses,  with  but  few  windows.  In  the. 
newer  and  modern  portion,  which  ex- 
tends towards  the  sea,  the  houses  are 
high,  gay,  well  lighted,  the  streets  wide, 
especially  those  of  the  Marques  de 
Lario8,  Granada,  Nueva,  etc.,  and  the 
Alameda,  which  is  a  broad  and  hand- 
some street,  with  a  promenade  and  trees 
in  the  centre.  Most  of  this  portion  was 
covered  by  the  sea  during  the  Moorish 
rule,  and  caravels  and  feluccas  anchored 
close  to  the  Hotel  de  Roma,  at  Puerta 
del  Mar.  The  principal  squares  are- 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  in  the  heart 
of  the  city  ;  de  Riego,  or  De  la  Merced 
in  centre  of  which  rises  a  clumsy  monu- 
ment in  memory  of  General  Torrijos 
and  his  friends,  who  were  perfidiously 
put  to  death  on  the  Plaza  del  Carmen, 
in  1831,  for  their  liberalism. 

Malaga  is  a  very  prosperous  trading 
port — the  exports  being  considerable, 
and  augmenting  yearly  (see  Andalusia). 
There  is  little  or  no  art,  and  the  passing 
tourist  may  see  everything  in  one  day. 
As  in  every  commercial  city,  whether 
here  or  elsewhere,  there  is  but  little 
society,  though  wealth  abounds.  The 
Malaguenas  are  considered  to  be  the 
prettiest  women  in  all  Spain,  and  the 


MALAGA. 


313 


Hving  expression  of  '  gracia '  and  their 
trato  most  agreeable.  The  evening 
lounge  on  the  Alameda,  the  tertulia  in 
the  box  at  the  theatre,  and  the  rendez- 
vous at  the  cafe,  seem  to  be  the  chief 
occasions  of  reunion  here. 

Historical  Notice. — Malaga  was 
one  of  the  early  Phoenician  factories  in 
Spain  ('  Malaca  magis  ad  Punic*  for- 
mam  accedit.' — Strctbo),  and  derives  its 
name  from  the  Phoenician  word  Ho  salt, ' 
Malac,  which  in  all  Semitical  languages 
means  the  same,  and  in  Arab  is  written 
'  Malaha  ;'  the  salt  fish  being  the  staple 
trade  of  Malaga  as  well  as  of  Cadiz,  etc. ; 
and  Strabo  mentions  it,  saying,  '  Mul- 
tumque  ibi  conncitur  salsamenti.'  Scipio 
raised  it  to  a  municipium,  and  it  be- 
came an  ally  of  Rome,  ('  Malaca  fcede- 
ratorum.' — Pliny).  Of  the  Phoenician 
period  there  are  a  few  coins  that  turn 
up  now  and  then  ;  of  the  Romans,  two 
interesting  bronze  slabs,  with  fragments 
of  the  municipal  laws  of  Malaga  and 
Salpense,  under  Doniitian,  and  now  the 
property  of  Marquds  de  Casa  Loring. 
It  was  of  no  great  importance  under  the 
Visigoths,  who  nevertheless  raised  it  to 
a  bishop's  see. 

Malaga  was  taken  in  710  by  the  Ber- 
bers, under  Tarik ;  but  when  the  land 
was  distributed  at  the  arrival  of  the 
Arab  proper  tribes,  this  region,  or  rayya, 
fell  to  the  lot  of  the  Chund  Alh6rdan, 
or  tribes  of  the  Jordan.  It  became  from 
the  first  a  prosperous  seaport,  and,  from 
its  situation,  soil,  climate,  proximity  to 
Africa,  etc.,  was  always  favoured  and 
loved  by  the  Moor.  The  Arab  historians 
were  never  weary  in  their  praises  of  its 
beautiful  climate,  and  the  bounties  of 
its  generous  soil.  Al-Makkari  men- 
tions Brevas  and  Teen  el  Malaki  (the 
produce  of  the  first  crop  of  figs)  which,  he 
says,  were  sent  to  India  and  China,  for 
the  like  were  not  to  be  seen  elsewhere. 

'  Malaga,'  says  El  Idrisi, '  is  a  most  beautiful 
city,  densely  peopled,  large,  and  most  excellent. 


Its  markets  are  much  frequented  ;  its  trade  is 
important,  and  its  resources  numerous.'  Ibn 
Batuta,  who  visited  it  in  1630,  praises  its  deli- 
cious fruit : — '  I  have  seen  eight  pounds  of  grapes 
sold  in  its  market  for  a  dirhem  (about  twopence). 
Its  Mursy  (Murcian)  pomegranates  are  like 
rubies,  and  unequalled  in  the  whole  world. 
Beautiful  gilt  porcelain  is  made  at  Malaga,  and 
exported  to  the  furthest  regions  of  the  earth. 
Its  mosque  is  large  and  time  honoured ;  its 
patios  have  no  rivals  in  beauty,  and  are  shaded 
by  groves  of  oranges  of  wonderful  beauty.'  And 
he  adds  that  he  saw  at  the  door  a  Talhib,  or 
preacher,  sitting  amid  his  Alfaki,  and  collecting 
money  from  the  passers-by  to  make  up  the  ran- 
som of  some  Moors  whom  a  Castilian  fleet  had 
captured  on  the  shores  of  La  Fuengirola. 

The  wine  produced  here  was  in  their 
time  as  well  or  better  appreciated  than 
it  is  now,  and  the  Xardb  Al-Malaki, 
though  wine  was  prohibited  by  Ma- 
homet, was,  probably  for  that  very  rea- 
son, proverbially  delicious.  Al-Makkari 
tells  a  story  of  a  dying  Moor,  whom  the 
Alfaki  was  entreating  to  pray  to  God  ; 
on  which  he  exclaimed,  '  0  Lord !  of  all 
things  which  Thou  hast  in  paradise,  I 
only  ask  for  two :  grant  me  to  drink 
this  Malaga  Xardb,  and  the  Zebibi  of 
Seville'  (sort  of  muscatel). 

This  writer  also  mentions  the  magnificent 
stuffs,  hollas,  made  here  for  dress,  and  on  which 
were  embroidered  portraits  of  celebrated  khalifs, 
etc.  Ibn-al-Jathib  calls  it  '  the  centre  pearl 
(that  placed  in  the  middle  of  a  necklace) ;  aland 
of  paradise  ;  polar  star ;  diadem  of  the  moon  ; 
forehead  of  a  bewitching  beauty  unveiled  ;'  etc. 
etc.  What  Malaga  was  under  the  Moors  in  the 
middle  of  the  15th  century,  may  be  gathered 
from  the  interesting  *  Cronica  de  D.  Pedro  Nifto, 
Conde  de  Buelna,'  of  which  there  is  a  good  edi- 
tion of  1782,  Madrid,  Imprenta  de  Sancha. 

The  importance  of  Malaga  began  espe- 
cially about  the  middle  of  the  10th 
centuiy,  when  the  residence  of  the  Wali 
of  Rayya  was  removed  here  from  Archi- 
dona,  whence  the  name  of  the  capital  of 
Rayya,  Medina  Rayya,  is  often  found 
in  Arab  writers  of  that  period.  In  the 
11th  centuiy  it  became  the  court  cf  the 
Emirs  of  the  Idrisite  dynasty,  which 
extended  its  rule  to  Cordova,  but  lasted 


314 


MALAGA-  CATHEDRAL. 


only  twenty  years.  Subsequently  it 
became  dependent  of  Fez  and  Morocco, 
then  of  Granada  ;  was  the  centre  of 
several  great  rebellions  and  resistance, 
and,  after  a  dreadful  siege,  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella  entered  it,  August  18, 
1487,  breaking  every  pledge,  fixing 
thirty  dollars  a-head  as  a  ransom  for  the 
population,  and,  on  their  inability  to 
pay,  condemning  them  all  to  slavery, 
confiscation,  and  the  faggot. 

Those  whom  it  may  interest  to  know  the  state 
of  Malaga  at  that  period,  may  read  the  Chron- 
icles of  El  Cura  de  los  Palacios  ('  Cronica  de 
los  Reyes  Catolicos'),  which  have  been  recently 
published  at  Granada,  besides  those  of  Hernan 
Perez  del  Pulgar,  and  the  Catalan  Llitra's  Let- 
ters. This  latter  was  sent  to  Malaga  by  the 
people  of  the  Balearic  Islands  to  settle  some 
affairs  connected  with  them,  and  in  the  character 
of  envoy  to  the  Catholic  kings.  According  to 
him,  the  great  sights  then  were  the  Jewry,  the 
Casa  de  los  Genovesss  (a  palace  built  by  Geno- 
ese merchants),  the  Tarazanas  or  Arsenal,  etc. ; 
the  mosque  which  Llitra  calls  'molt  gentil  cosa,' 
was  half  the  size  of  that  at  Cordova,  decorated 
with  marble  and  jasper  pillars,  and  ornamented 
like  a  filigree  jewel.  Isabella,  after  it  was  puri- 
fied, made  to  it  a  present  of  a  bit  of  the  true 
cross,  and  two  bells  out  of  thirty  which  she  car- 
ried with  her,  to  distribute  among  the  conquered 
cities.  The  patio  was  most  beautiful,  etc.,  the 
walls  of  the  city  massive,  the  streets  narrow  and 
sombre,  and  there  were  no  squares,  the  outside 
of  houses  was  plain  and  melancholy,  but  the  in- 
terior rooms,  patios,  decorated  with  paintings, 
marbles,  etc. 

The  decadence  of  the  town  now  began. 
Malaga  dwindled  into  a  third-rate  pro- 
vincial city.  In  1810  it  was  easily  taken 
by  Sebastiani,  who  exacted  12,000,000r. 
from  the  terror-stricken  inhabitants. 
Malaga  has  been  the  birthplace  of 
several  eminent  Arab  writers — of  the 
naturalist  Abu-Beith&r,  and  of  Moh. 
Ben  Kassim ;  also  of  great  Moorish 
doctors,  chess-players,  etc.,  and  of  the 
learned  Aideretes,  one  of  whom,  Ber- 
nardo, wrote  the  *  Origen  de  la  Lengua 
Castellana,'  Rome,  1606,  4to. ;  Pedro 
Montuano,  the  numismatic  Velasquez 
de  Velasco,  etc. 


Sights: — Cathedral,    Iglcsia    de  la 
Victoria,  Gibralfaro,  Atarazanas. 

€att)tDraI.— Rises  on  the  site  of  the 
former  mosque,  which  was  converted 
into  a  Gothic  church,  of  which  nothing 
remains  save  the  portal  of  the  Sagrario, 
which  belongs  to  the  decline  of  Gothic 
architecture,    and    is    decorated  with 
canopied  saints,  foliage,  and  a  profusion 
of  Moro-Gothic  details.     The  present 
Graeco- Roman    edifice    was   designed, 
according  to  most  writers,  by  Diego  de 
Siloe ;  the  plans  being  presented  to  and 
approved  by  the  chapter  in  1528.    The 
works  were  begun  immediately,  but  had 
to  be  interrupted  from  want  of  funds 
and  royal  patronage.      It  was  partly 
destroyed  in  1680  by  an  earthquake, 
and  the  works,  resumed  in  1719  (not  a 
favourable  epoch  for  art),  were,  after 
several  modifications,  interrupted  once 
more  in  1765,   and  have  never  been 
completed.     Thus  an  edifice,  begun  on 
a  large  scale,  after  excellent  designs, 
has  been  gradually  disfigured,  and  pre- 
sents now  an  unmeaning  pile,  charac- 
terised by  all  the  defects  of  the  pseudo- 
classical  school  at  the  worst  periods. 
The  length  of  it  is  about  374  ft.,  the 
breadth  243  ft.,  and  the  height  132  ft 
There  are  seven  entrances.     The  prin- 
cipal faeade  is  to  the  W.  and  in  an 
irregular  square.    The  entrance  consists 
of  three  fine  arches  resting  on  Corinthian 
pillars ;    the  upper    portion  or   stage 
belongs  to  the  Composite  order,  and  is 
flanked  by  only  one  tower,  the  other 
not  being  completed.      This  tower  is 
light,  of  good  proportions,  but  the  effect 
is  marred  by  pilasters,  balconies,  balus- 
trades, simulated  openings,  etc.     The 
height  is  850  ft.     The  view  from  it  is 
glorious,  but  the  sight  of  the  cathedral 
itself  is  most  effective  and  pleasing  from 
a  distance,  owing  to  the  whiteness  of 
the  stone,  the  length  of  the  edifice,  and 
the  quaint  small  cupolas  of  the  roof. 
Interior. — Three  naves  divided    by 


MALAGA — CATHEDRAL. 


315 


Corinthian-grouped  fluted  pillars  placed 
back  to  back  upon  circular,  heavy,  and 
disproportionate  pedestals.  The  capi- 
tals are  also  incongruous,  and  their 
entablature  too  large.  The  arches  of 
the  roof  do  not  spring  directly  from 
these  pillars,  but  rest  on  columns  in 
the  cornice.  It  is  spacious  and  lofty, 
but  too  much  lighted  up  ;  of  monoton- 
ous symmetry  between  the  parts,  cold 
and  unmeaning.  The  High  Chapel  was 
designed  by  Alfonso  Cano.  The  altar  is 
modern  and  in  bad  taste.  The  five 
frescoes  of  the  Passion  are  by  Cesar  of 
Arbacia,  1580.  The  pavement  is  of 
white  and  blue  marbles,  and  the  roof 
is  decorated  with  gilt  and  painted 
rosettes.  The  transept  portals  are 
elegant.  The  cilioir  dates  1592-1631, 
and  is  the  work  of  Vergara  the  younger, 
to  whom  Diaz  de  Palacios  succeeded. 
The  stalls  were  designed  by  Luis  Ortiz 
and  the  Italian  sculptor  Giuseppe 
Michael,  1658.  Forty  statues  of  saints, 
which  were  then  wanting,  were  confided 
to  Pedro  de  Mena.  The  carving  is  of 
no  great  merit ;  the  wood  employed  is 
mahogany,  cedar,  etc.  The  statues  are 
the  best  portion,  and  Cano's  taste  is 
here  revealed  by  his  pupil  Mena.  The 
chapels  are  indifferent,  and  contain  few 
pictures. 

Capilla  de  N.  S.  del  Rosario,  the  large 
picture  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Rosary,  is 
by  Alfonso  Cano.  St.  Dominik  and 
St.  Francis,  at  the  foot  of  the  Virgin, 
are  excellently  drawn.  The  morbidezza 
on  the  Virgin's  face,  the  delicate  hand- 
ling of  the  draperies,  are  all  to  be 
noticed ;  but  the  colouring  is  not  so 
good  as  usual. 

Capilla  de  la  Conception.  —  This 
*  mystery'  is  represented  in  a  painting 
oy  Mateo  Cerezo. 

Capilla  de  los  Reyes. — A  holy  image 
which  used  to  be  carried  by  the  Catho- 
lic kings  in  their  campaigns  ;  on  right 
and  left  their  portraits,  both  copies. 


Capilla  de  San  Francisco. — Virgin 
and  Dead  Christ,  ascribed,  erroneously 
we  think,  to  Morales. 

Altar  del  Trascoro. — It  is  of  jasper. 
The  image  of  the  Virgin  is  by  Adam, 
whose  St.  Michael  at  the  Cathedral  of 
Granada  is  better,  and  his  masterpiece. 
The  paintings  of  Sta.  Agueda  and  Sta. 
Cecilia  are  both  ascribed  to  Murillo  (!). 

In  the  square  on  the  right  of  cathe- 
dral is  the  indifferent  Bishop's  Palace, 
and  on  the  other  side  the  elegant  Puerta 
del  Sagrario. 

Church  of  El  Cristo  de  La  Victoria. — 
On  the  site  of  the  Catholic  king's  tent, 
which  was  put  up  during  the  siege  of 
1487.  The  miserable,  whitewashed, 
small  San  Roque  close  by  was  the  first 
Christian  edifice  erected  here  by  Fer- 
dinand and  Isabella.  The  image,  highly 
revered,  was  removed  from  it  when  the 
present  larger  church  was  built,  and 
placed  on  the  high  altar  within  a  small 
circular  churrigueresque  chapel,  where, 
by  means  of  curtains,  etc.,  the  light  is 
so  managed  as  to  produce  a  soft,  purple, 
vapoury  atmosphere.  The  image  was 
brought  here  by  the  Catholic  kings. 
The  jewels  it  once  possessed  became  a 
prey  in  Sebastiani's  hands,  who  did  not 
forget  the  silver  candelabra,  etc.  To 
the  right  of  altar  is  Ferdinand's  pen  don 
or  royal  standard,  and  to  the  left  the 
one  taken  from  the  Moors.  The  former, 
when  the  city  surrendered,  was  hoisted 
in  the  alcazaba  or  castle  on  the  Torre 
del  Homenage.  There  are  a  good  stair- 
case and  some  tombs  of  the  Buenavista 
family. 

The  minor  churches  are  all  un- 
interesting, as,  after  the  conquest,  the 
king's  favour  was  withdrawn  from  it ; 
and  it  was  deserted  alike  by  wealthy 
Moors  and  the  nobility ;  and  merchants 
were  even  reluctant  to  inhabit  this 
desolate  city,  notwithstanding  the 
fueros  granted,  the  privileges  offered 
to  those  who  would  colonise  its  aban- 


316 


MALAGA. 


doned  huerta,  and  the  offers  to  the 
Genoese  to  be  restored  their  barrio,  etc. 
Santiago  and  Sto.  Domingo,  near  the 
river,  are  indifferent  That  of  Santos 
Martires  contains  some  good  painted 
sculpture  representing  Apostles,  San- 
tiago, and  San  Juan,  date  1490. 

G-ibralfaro.— The  ascent  is  easy,  and 
the  view  from  the  height  extensive  and 
fine.  The  alcazaba  was  united  by  the 
Arabs  to  Gibralfaro,  and  the  city  was 
hooped  in  within  a  quadruple  circle  of 
walls.  To  N.  is  still  the  former  Torre 
del  Vigia,  the  watch-tower,  theAtalaya; 
and  to  S.  the  usual  Moorish  La  Vela, 
on  which  D.  Pedro  de  Toledo  placed  his 
Silver  Cross  on  the  day  of  the  surrender 
of  the  city  by  the  Moors.  The  two 
steep  ascents  lead  both  to  the  deeply- 
recessed  Puerta  de  Hierro,  whose  Arab 
ogival  and  horseshoe  arches  observe,  as 
well  as  the  Roman  vestiges  about  the 
columns,  and  mutilated  Corinthian 
capitals  ;  the  two  other  gates — Arco  de 
Cristo  and  Cuartos  de  Granada — are  not 
as  interesting.  The  Moorish  castle 
dates  1279  ;  the  lower  portion  or  alca- 
zaba was  anterior  to  the  Moorish  period, 
and  its  foundations  as  well  as  those  of 
the  walls  are  probably  Phoenician.  It  is 
connected  with  the  Gibralfaro  (from 
gebel,  rock  ;  faro  the  Greek  faros,  light- 
house), which,  an  old  Phoenician  castle, 
was  repaired  by  Mohammed  of  Granada, 
who  reigned  1273  to  1302  ;  but  part  of 
which  had  been  raised  end  of  11th  cen- 
tury by  Ibn-Habus-El-Zinhachi.  N.B 
Admission  to  the  castle  is  rarely  ac- 
corded, as  political  prisoners  are  often 
kept  here.  The  possession  of  this 
neglected,  ill-defended,  but  strong  posi- 
tion, is  the  key  of  Malaga  and  the  Port, 
as  the  possession  of  both  were  in  Fer- 
dinand's time  the  key  to  Granada. 

Atarazanas  (Arabiee,  Dhar  Sanaa, 
literally  House  of  Arts,  whence  the  Span- 
ish ddrsenasmd  arsenal) — These  were  the 
Moorish  dockyards,  once  of  great  extent 


and  importance ;  their  situation  in  a 
back  street  is  a  sufficient  proof  of  the 
receding  of  the  sea.  The  only  remains 
consist  of  an  elegant  horseshoe  arch 
imbedded  in  the  wall,  with  two  shields 
on  the  sides,  and  the  motto  of  the 
Naserite  Emirs,  'God  alone  is  the 
Conqueror.' 

Libraries.  — The  Episcopal  Biblioteca 
consists  of  6000  vols.,  and  was  estab- 
lished under  Charles  III.  The  old 
catalogue  dates  1830.  They  have  been 
abandoned  a  good  deal  to  real  book- 
worms, and  are  full  of  wise  but  uncom- 
fortable dust.  It  is  rich  in  Bible  lite- 
rature, Fathers  of  the  Church,  Councils ; 
a  fine  MS.  missal  of  13th  century,  and 
a  few  MSS.  mostly  about  the  history  of 
this  city.  In  the  scanty  and  still  more 
modern  library  of  the  Institute  Pro- 
vincial there  is  a  valuable  work  on 
botany,  all  MSS.,  and  with  a  good  her- 
bary.  The  Marq.  of  Casa  Loriiig  has 
some  antiquities,  and  a  fine  collection 
of  books  and  MSS.  In  that  of  Los 
Herederos  of  Sr.  Oliver  inquire  for  the 
collection  of  early  chronicles  and  Elze- 
virian editions. 

Pictures. — Private  galleries  do  not 
exist.  There  are,  however,  some  good 
pictures  at  the  house  of  the  Marques 
Casa  Loring. 

Promenades,  Theatres,  etc. — The 
fashionable  paseos  are  the  Alameda, 
the  walk  to  the  lighthouse,  and  the 
Caleta.  The  Alameda  is  close  to 
the  port.  It  is  long  and  spacious, 
and  with  an  elegant  fountain  at 
one  extremity,  which  was  ordered  at 
Genoa  by  Charles  V.  for  his  palace  of 
Granada,  was  taken,  on  board  the 
Spanish  vessel  which  was  conveying  it, 
by  Barbarossa,  and  recovered  by  D.  Ber- 
nardino de  Mendoza,  General  de  Galeras. 
It  consists  of  two  tazzas,  and  is  most 
effective,  being  decorated  with  marbla 
cupids,  sirens,  nymphs,  etc.,  dressed  is 
a  light  fig-leaf  costume  most  appro- 


MALAGA. 


317 


priate  to  Malaga  climate.  On  the  Ala- 
meda the  military  band  plays  pretty 
generally  in  the  evening,  during  the 
long  summer,  from  8  to  10  p.m. 
We  also  recommend  the  Paseo  del 
Camino  Nuevo,  from  the  Church  of  La 
Victoria,  along  the  Qibralfaro  and  sea, 
and  along  the  Velez-Malaga  road  to  El 
Palo  (4  m.)  A  whole  new  suburb, 
called  the  Caleta,  has  risen  within  the 
last  few  years  on  this  eastern  side  of 
the  town,  beyond  the  Bull-ring  and  the 
British  cemetery.  A  great  number  of 
pretty  villas  with  good  gardens  have 
been  built,  and  are  let  at  moderate 
rents.  The  line  of  houses  now  goes 
almost  without  interruption  to  the  Palo: 
The  Caleta  is  the  Belgravia  of  Malaga, 
while  the  Alamedas  may  be  said  to  be 
its  Mayfair.  The  British  and  several 
other  of  the  foreign  consuls  have  their 
private  residences  in  this  new  quarter. 
Another  drive  1J  hr.,  by  Plaza  de 
Torrijos,  La  Victoria,  Fuente  de  la 
Mania  (excellent  drinking-water,  La 
Caleta,  Cortina  del  Muelle,  etc. 

The  new  Plaza  de  Toros  is  a  large 
building,  capable  of  holding  10,000 
spectators,  erected  in  1874  upon  the  old 
Muelle,  in  the  rear  of  the  Noble  Hospital 
(founded  by  two  English  ladies,  named 
Noble,  in  memory  of  their  brother). 

N.B. — A  very  charming  expedition 
is  to  take  the  train  from  Malaga  to 
Bobadilla  {see  p.  306  etc.),  and  thence 
to  Ronda,  where  stay  a  day  or  two  (see 
p.  164) ;  thence  to  Gaucin,  sleeping  at 
the  Fonda,  and  visiting  the  old  castle 
and  monastery  ;  thence  to  Gibraltar 
vid  San  Roque  ;  then  return  to  Malaga 
by  hired  horses  to  Estepona,  whence 
take  coach  to  Marbella  ;  get  permission 
to  see  the  iron  mines,  and  then  go  on 
to  Malaga  by  the  coast  line  of  diligences. 

British  Vice -Consul  at  Marbella. 
Mr.  Michael  Calzado. 

Post  Offloe — Calle  de  Cister. 


Hours  of  delivery,  3  and  8  p.m.,  and 
leaves  at  7  a.m. 

Open  from  8  a.m.  to  12  n.,  and  from 
2  p.m.  to  7  P.M. 

Letters  for  the  North  may  be  posted 
till  6  A.M. 

Telegraph  Office.— At  the  Post  Office, 
Calle  de  Cister. 

Consuls. — H.B.M.,  Alexander  Finn, 
Esq.  ;  Pro-Consul,  Chas.  Cowan,  Esq. 
Offices,  Cortina  del  Muelle,  93. 

United  States. — R.  M.  Bartleman, 
Esq.  ;  Office_on  the  Alameda. 

Bankers. — Messrs.  Cumming  and 
Van  Dulken,  and  Messrs.  Clemens 
and  Petersen,  both  on  the  Alameda 
de  Colon;  Rein  &  Co.,  Alameda 
Hermosa ;  Larios,  Alameda. 

Church  of  England  Service. — At  the 
Church  in  the  British  Cemetery.  Chap- 
lain, Rev.  Arthur  Evans.  Services, 
Sundays,  11  and  3,  and  Saints'  Day. 

The  British  Cemetery,  on  the  Velez- 
Malaga  road,  is  a  beautiful  spot,  in 
which  the  English  colony  take  great 
pride.  It  was  the  first  Protestant 
cemetery  allowed  in  Spain,  and  was 
obtained  in  anti  -  toleration  times 
through  the  energy  and  popularity  of 
the  then  consul,  Mr.  Wm.  Mark. 

[Visitors  may  well  make  a  small 
donation  towards  the  support  of  the 
cemetery.] 

Medical  Man. — Dr.  Clarence  Visick 
(English),  Vendeja  7. 

Baths. — Ant.  Porras,  Calle  Larios; 
Man.  Cerban,  Calle  de  los  Bailos.  Sea- 
bathing, from  June  to  September,  on 
the  Caleta  ;  three  establishments — 'De 
Diana/  ' La  Estrella,'  and  *Apolo.* 

Theatres. —  El  Principal;  De  Cer- 
vantes. The  latter  is  a  large  modern 
house,  where  Italian  Opera  and  Spanish 
Zarzuelas,  etc.,  are  given  during  the 
winter  season.   Summer  theatre, '  Lara. ' 

Peculiar  Eatables  of  the  Country.— 


318 


MALAGA. 


Fish.  —  Boquerones  (like  whitebait), 
changuetes,  agujetas  and  calaniares ; 
sweet  potatoes,  raisins,  and  almonds, 
and  sugar-cane.  Figs,  of  several  kinds, 
excellent,  and  at  cheapest  possible  price. 

Wines. — Malaga  is  celebrated  for  its 
exquisite  vino  de  Idgrima  (tears  liter- 
ally), not  unlike  the  Italian  produce  of 
that  name,  Lachryma  Christi;  dry 
Malaga  is  also  excellent  and  whole- 
some ;  upwards  of  50,000  pipes  are 
annually  produced ;  the  principal  mar- 
kets are  United  States,  France  and  S. 
America.  Good  imitations  of  Curacao, 
anisette,  and  other  liqueurs  are  made 
and  exported. 

Wine  -  merchants.  —  Scholtz,  Her- 
manos,  Alameda  de  Colon ;  Crooke, 
Herman  os  y  Campania,  Alameda  21 ; 
Clemens  and  Petersen,  Alameda  de 
Colon. 

Maisin  -  merchants.  —  Clemens    and 

Petersen,  Alameda  de  les  Tristes  2. 
Hairdresser. — Antonio  Porras,  Calle  Larios. 
Tailor.— Beffa,  Puerta  del  Mar. 
Glover. — Castilla,  Calle  Granada. 

Malaga,  the  leader  in  many  of  the 
improvements  in  Spain,  has  lately 
started  a  poorhouse,  supported  by 
voluntary  subscriptions  —  unfortun- 
ately there  is  no  poor  law  or  system 
in  the  country.  With  the  help  of 
the  governors  and  police  about  150 
beggars  have  been  taken  off  the  streets, 
and  housed  and  fed,  and  periodically 
convoys  of  beggars  are  sent  back  to 
their  own  towns  or  villages. 

Boat  Fares.  —  From  steamer  to 
Custom  House  or  hotel,  2r.  (50c.)  per 
person,  and  2r.  a  colis.  Parcels  should 
be  tied  together,  so  as  to  make  one 
package  if  taken  by  porter. 

Cab  Fares.  — Morning  to  Nigkt. 


Night  to  Morning. 


2  Seats,  course 

,,       by  the  hour 


2  Seats,  course 

„       by  the  hour 
4  Seats,  course 

„      by  the  hour 


z    pes. 
2*   u 


2   pes. 

4  Seats,  course  .        .         .         2J    „ 

,,       by  the  hour         .         -        3J    „ 

First  hour,  though  not  completed,  must  be 
paid  as  whole ;  every  quarter  after  the  first 
hour,  proportionately. 

Half-a-day,  2 J  pes.;  entire  day,  5  pes.;  by 
the  month,  conventional  prices  within  the  city 
bounds,  outside  about  3J  pes.  the  hour. 

A  large  two -horse  caleche,  5  pes.  an  hour 
within  the  city. 

Best  Stand,  opposite  the  Hotel  de  Roma,  on 
the  Alameda. 

Horses  for  hire. — Inquire  at  the  hotel.  The 
usual  charge  is  xo  pes.  per  day. 

The  Port — Trade.— The  port  is 
spacious  and  secure,  sheltered  from  all 
dangerous  winds  save  that  from  the  S. 
The  mole  on  the  E.  side  is  fine,  and  was 
built  in  1588 :  it  is  now  in  course  of 
extension,  and  the  harbour  is  being 
much  improved.  A  new  Alameda  on 
the  sea  front  is  (1895)  projected. 
At  the  extremity  of  the  mole  stands  a 
new  lighthouse,  the  light  of  which 
revolves  once  every  minute ;  a  shoa1 
which  is  growing  up  round  the  mole- 
head  would  rapidly  and  seriously  dim- 
inish the  depth  of  water  throughout 
the  harbour,  were  it  not  for  the  dredg- 
ing-machine  which  is  continually  em- 
ployed in  clearing  it  out.  The  depth 
at  the  entrance  and  within  varies  from 
25  ft.  to  30  ft.,  and  a  good  depth 
is  being  made  uniform  throughout. 
The  harbour  is  spacious  enough  to 
accommodate  upwards  of  450  mer- 
chant ships,  and  the  fleets  of  Carthage 
and  those  of  Rome  anchored  here  for 
repairs  and  provisions.  The  trade  ot 
Malaga,  though  improving,  is  slight  in 
comparison  with  what  it  may  and  ought 
to  be.  For  this  and  the  surrounding  dis- 
tricts,in  addition  to  their  mineral  wealth, 
literally  overflow  with  wine,  oil,  etc., 
and  are  capable  of  indefinite  develop- 
ment.    The  city  is  truly  the  capital  of 


MALAGA. 


319 


tropical  Europe,  and  is,  as  the  poets  sing, 

Malaga,  la  hechizera, 
La  del  eternal  primavera, 
La  que  bana  dulce  el  mar 
Entre  jasmin  y  azahar. 

The  annual  production  of  wine  in  the 
province  amounts  to  about  2,250,000  gal- 
lons; about  2,000,000  boxes  of  dried 
raisins  (22  lbs.  per  box)  are  exported  ; 
50,000  boxes  of  lemons,  and  25,000 
boxes  of  oranges.  Figs,  almonds  and 
other  fruits  are  also  extensively  shipped. 

Of  the  riches  in  fruit-produce  the 
traveller  will  easily  convince  himself  if 
he  is  at  Malaga  about  the  end  of  August 
to  the  middle  of  December,  when  the 
Mole  and  the  Velez  Road  present  a  most 
novel  and  picturesque  sight.  The 
vintage  is  then  over,  and  the  fruit  piled 
up  and  placed  in  boxes  for  shipment. 
There  are  several  manufactories  in  full 
activity — sugar-refineries,  cotton-mills, 
besides  iron-foundries,  soap-works,  etc. 

Excursions  may  be  made  to  Torre- 
molinos ;  to  El  Retiro,  a  fine  estate  of 
Conde  de  Alcolea  ;  for  permit  apply  to 
his  agent.  The  gardens  are  pretty, 
but  are  sadly  neglected,  and  the 
principal  pictures  formerly  here  re- 
moved to  his  palace  at  Madrid. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  energies 
of  this  province  are  not  turned  from 
politics  and  empleomania  into  the  more 
satisfactory  and  lucrative  mercantile 
and  industrial  professions.  The  botany 
and  geology  would  then  be  better 
known,  and  their  hidden  treasures 
brought  to  light.  The  hills  abound  in 
metals,  marbles,  admirable  in  colour, 
fineness  of  grain,  etc.  ;  in  mineral 
springs  of  very  great  efficiency,  of 
which  Alhama  and  Carratraca  are 
examples  ;  of  streams  and  waterfalls 
that  would  work  mills  and  factories. 
We  refer  readers  for  more  details  on  the 
agriculture  of  this  province  to  General 
Information :  Agriculture — only  adding 
that,  among  others,  the  fincas,  or  estates 


of  La  Concepcion  and  San  Jose,  belong- 
ing respectively  to  the  Marques  de  Casa 
Loring  and  Don  Tom  as  Heredia,  are  the 
best  worth  a  visit.  The  bamboos  and 
arums  here  are  especially  magnificent 

The  geological  exploration  of  this 
province  has  yet  to  be  made,  and  will 
amply  repay  time  and  trouble.  Geo- 
logists will  not  fail  to  visit  the  un- 
trodden stakotital  caverns,  which  are 
very  numerous  here.  The  caverns  oi 
Los  Cantales,  Ardalez,  and  Tejares  are 
especially  worth  visiting.  Visit  also 
the  large  pleocene  superior  tertiary  ma- 
rine deposit  between  Cerro  de  San 
Anton  and  Torre  de  San  Telmo,  E.  of 
Malaga,  and  abounding  in  fossil  shells, 
Ostrece,  Cardii  Pecten,  etc.  These  ter- 
tiary beds  constitute  the  soil  on  which 
the  city  stands. 

A  vertical  section  of  the  barro  quarries  of 
Los  Tejares  presents  a  layer  of  vegetable  soil 
some  2  to  3  yards  deep  ;  and  below  it  one  of 
clayey  sand,  6  to  8  yards  in  depth.  There  are 
found  beds  of  yellow  clay  8  to  q  yards  thick, 
under  a  layer  of  fossil  shells,  and  under  it  one 
of  blue  clay,  used  here  to  make  bricks  and 
common  earthenware.  One  species  of  Natica, 
one  of  Calamus,  two  Dentalii,  five  Pectens, 
two  Ostreee,  and  one  Pitma,  were  found  by  Sr. 
Prolongo,  on  a  slight  investigation  he  made 
some  years  ago  with  M.  Verneuil.  Around 
Malaga  the  minerals  found  are — carboniferous 
and  sandy  quartz,  and  the  common  one  amid 
clayey  slate,  and  mica,  and  lignite  in  the  Arroyo 
de  los  Angeles  and  Cerro  Coronado.  Compact 
limestone  is  found  in  the  upper  portions  of  most 
of  the  soil  around  the  city.  Siliceous  and  red 
compact  limestone,  mixed  with  fossils,  is  also 
met  on  Gibralfaro  and  Cerro  de  San  Anton. 
White  pyrites  is  found  on  the  Camino  Nuevo  de 
la  Victoria,  and  a  mine  of  it  was  worked  some 
years  ago  on  the  slopes  of  Cerro  de  San  Cristo- 
bal. Copper  pyrites  and  barytine  abound  about 
£1  Palo,  Puente  del  Indio,  Las  Ermitas,  etc. 
The  rocks  may  be  thus  classified  : — Red  sand- 
stone, about  the  Ermitas ;  slate  and  schist ; 
the  hills  all  around  principally  consist  of  com- 
pact, cretaceous  limestone.  See,  for  fuller 
details,  Books  of  Reference  and  General  Infor- 
mation— Geology,  Agriculture,  etc. 

Books  of  Reference. — i.  '  Guia  del  Viagero 
en  Malaga,'  by  Vila;  Malaga  i86i,Calle  Nueva 
No.  6i,  Imprenta  Espanela,  i  vol.  with  cuts. 


w 


320 


MURCIA. 


Useful  to  the  general  tourist,  but  of  no  import- 
ance for  the  study  of  the  city,  its  history,  anti- 
quities, etc. 

2.  'Topografia  mettica  de  la  Ciudad  de 
Malaga,'  by  D.  Martinez  y  Montes,  4to,  Ma- 
laga, 1852.  The  best  work  extant  on  the 
climate,  etc 

N.B. — For  the   geology,  agriculture,  etc., 


of  the  environs  and  province,  see  General  In- 
formation :  Geology t  Agriculture. 

3.  To  understand  the  Malaguefios,  read  the 
poesias  and  tales  of  Estebanez  Calderon  {El 
Solitario),  uncle  of  Cdnovas  del  Castillo,  who 
has  written  his  biography. 

4.  See  also  Senor  Berlanga's  books,  and,  for 
trade  and  industries,  the  *  Annual  Consular 
Reports '  and  Official  Mines  Report. 


Merida,  see  p.  535.    For  Moroooo,  see  Tangier*. 
MURCIA  (Kingdom  of). 


Geographical  and  Administrative 
Divisions,  Bivers,  etc. — The  Reino  de 
Murcia  is  some  660  square  leagues  in 
extent.  It  is  bounded  to  the  N.  by  the 
province  of  Cuenca  and  Sierra  Mayor 
(which  separates  it  from  Valencia), 
and  part  of  New  Castille ;  to  the  W. 
by  Sierra  Morena,  the  provinces  of 
Ciudad  Real ;  Jaen,  to  the  S.  by  Anda- 
lusia, from  which  it  is  divided  by  the 
Grillemena  and  Ubeda  range  and  the 
Mediterranean;  and  to  the  E.  by  the 
province  of  Alicante  and  the  sea.  It 
has  been  divided  into  two  provinces  : 
Murcia,  capital  Murcia,  pop.  452,082, 
and  Albacete,  capital  Albacete,  pop. 
219,044;  in  all,  671,126.  Almeida, 
Alicante,  etc.,  have  taken  parts  of 
the  spoils,  when  the  reino  was  torn 
asunder  and  divided,  to  satisfy  the 
French  centralisation  mania.  It  is  a 
country  of  hills,  the  province  of  Murcia 
alone  having  some  140  square  leagues 
of  them ;  the  highest  are  situated  in  the 
Sierra  de  Espana,  and  rise  from  2130  to 
2460  ft.  above  the  sea.  Cape  Palos 
forms  the  end  of  the  long  chain  that 
intersects  the  reino  and  becomes  part 
of  Sierra  Almagrera,  in  the  province  of 
Almeria.  On  the  seaboard  these  hills, 
though  considerably  depressed,  still 
rise  like  lofty  precipitous  walls.  There 
are  also  extensive  plains,  most  fertile 
vegas,  and  baldios  or  waste  lands,  the 
reino  being  very  thinly  populated. 
The  principal  cities  are  Murcia,  Alba- 
cete, Cartagena,  and  Lorca ;  the  prin- 


cipal river,  Sangonera ;   the  principal 
ports,  Cartagena  and  Almazarron. 

History. — In  this  respect  Murcia  is 
devoid  of  great  interest.  The  extra* 
ordinary  riches  of  its  mines  soon  at- 
tracted the  attention  of  the  Cartha- 
ginians and  Phoenicians.  Although  at- 
tached to  its  Gothic  rulers,  Murcia  fell 
an  easy  prey  to  the  Moor,  who  con- 
verted it  into  a  garden  of  flowers  and 
fruit,  of  fat,  plenty,  and  peace.  Mursiah 
was  therefore  often  simply  called  El 
Baztan,  the  garden,  as  Misr,  in  Egypt, 
with  which  it  was  thought  to  possess 
great  analogy.  About  1236,  when  the 
Khalifate  of  Cordoba,  of  which  it 
formed  part,  was  dismembered,  Murcia 
became  an  independent  kingdom,  and 
Aben  Hudiel  its  first  king.  Division, 
as  usual,  began  to  sap  this  new  throne. 
Christian  alliances  were  sought,  and 
the  wolf  let  into  the  sheepfold.  Murcia 
was  annexed  to  Castile  and  repeopled 
by  Alfonso  X.  with  Catalans,  Aragonese, 
and  even  French,  of  whom  there  are 
still  descendants,  whose  origin  is  easily 
discovered  by  their  names,  however  dis- 
torted (foreign  names  always  are  by 
Spaniards) — Bilinton,  Saspir,  Todos 
Santos,  standing  for  Wellington,  Shaks- 
peare,  Southampton  ;  and  the  German 
Muller,  Kotzebue,  and  Gbthe,  being 
amusingly  pronounced  Mula,  Coz-de- 
buey,  y  Cohete.  This,  however,  is 
better  than  a  French  servant  whom  we 
once  heard  announcing  'Monsieur  le 
!  Mattre  de  Poste  de  Bordeaux,'  in  lieu 


MURCIA. 


321 


of  Pozzo  di  Borgo,  and  our  GaLician 
servant  at  Biarritz  informing  us  gravely 
that  'El  Profeta  de  Bayona,'  the  Prefet, 
asked  to  see  us. 

Character,  Dress.  —  The  Murcianos 
are  little  else  than  degenerate  Moors, 
who  speak  Spanish.  Sloth  is  their  god ; 
to  bask  in  their  sun,  all  their  occupa- 
tion ;  and  to  eat  pimientos,  sleep,  and 
smoke,  their  dearest  enjoyments.  It 
is  something  new,  obsolete,  quite  re- 
freshing, as  the  Yankees  have  it,  to  see 
this  marmot,  vegetable  people,  in  the 
second  part  of  the  19th  century,  living, 
or  rather  sleeping,  within  some  eighty 
or  ninety  hours  of  Paris,  Turin,  Swit- 
zerland. Is  it  because  they  are  still 
nearer  to  Africa  and  their  old  friends 
the  Berbers  ? 

Adam,  says  a  Spanish  story,  asked  leave,  not 
many  years  ago,  to  revisit  the  earth,  teatro  de 
sus  glorias  y  fatigas.  Having  obtained  it,  he 
went  first  to  Germany ;  the  site  of  the  Vater- 
land  studded  with  universities,  the  roads,  canals, 
bridges,  all  astounded  our  great  forefather,  who 
no  longer  made  out  his  former  land  ;  he  went 
on  to  England,  and  lo  !  railways,  engines  hissing 
in  every  direction,  ports  with  forests  of  masts, 
a  beehive,  an  ant-mole,  all  busy,  bustling,  sell- 
ing, buying  1  Great  was  his  disappointment  at 
finding  everything  changed — aspect  of  country, 
dress,  tongues,  cities,  life.  France  he  could  no 
more  know  again  ;  but,  '  Hallo,  what  is  this?' 
he  exclaimed  with  joy,  as  he  crossed  the  Bidas- 
soa,  and  his  eye  swept  at  once  over  Castille, 
Estremadura,  and  finally  Murcia !  '  This  I 
know  full  well ;  this  is  mi  tierra,  and  such,  in- 
deed, as  1  left  it,  vive  Dios  f  This  petrified 
nation  is  really  a  European  curiosity,  and  ought 
to  be  walled  in,  and  admittance  granted  on 
certain  days  of  the  year  with  tickets.  They 
are  violent  and  revengeful,  and  crime  is  fre- 
quent. The  inhabitants  on  the  Mediterranean 
coast  are  more  active,  laborious,  and  ilustrados. 
They  all  are,  however,  a  good-natured,  honest 
people,  fond  of  their  country,  their  backward- 
ness, their  clergy,  and  pimiento ;  and  not  the 
less  piquant  for  that  Their  dress,  especially 
in  the  districts  of  Algesiras  and  Fortuna,  is 
most  Oriental,  but  differs  little  from  the  Valen- 
cian,  which  we  have  described  in  Valencia 
(Province  of). 

Agriculture,  Mines,  etc. — The  mines 
of  this  reino  have  been  always  celebrated, 


and  yield  to  this  day  enormous  quanti- 
ties of  ore.  The  most  important  are  : 
La  Britanica,  San  Juan,  refining  estab- 
lishments at  Alicante ;  the  Amalga* 
mation  Works  of  La  Regenerada  at 
Almazarron,  of  San  Isidro  at  Escom- 
brera ;  the  Bonanzos  of  La  Observacion, 
Emilia,  La  Esperanza,  and  a  hundred 
others.  Lead  and  silver  abound  every- 
where ;  and  there  are  besides  extensive 
and  numerous  quarries  of  white  blue- 
veined  marbles,  red  jaspers,  anthracite, 
etc.  The  mining  mania  reached  its 
acme  some  years  ago,  but  has  since 
decreased,  owing  to  sendos  desengaiios, 
hasty  and  feverish  anxiety  to  realise 
immediately,  iniquitous  dealings  of 
some  companies,  whose  morals  and 
shares  were  not  Berquin's  *  Morale  en 
actions.'  But  most  of  the  best  are  in 
the  hands  of  foreign  and  respectable 
Spanish  gentlemen,  and  the  results  are 
prosperous.  (See  General  Information  : 
Mines.)  As  to  agriculture,  Murcia 
would  certainly  be  an  Eden,  where  all 
the  fruits  of  the  earth  would  be  borne 
without  trouble,  were  it  not  for  the 
great  drought  which  often  lasts  for  two 
and  three  successive  years.  The  irri- 
gated portions  produce  all  the  plants  of 
the  tropics  and  our  own  in  unusual 
proportions,  size,  and  colour,  but  not 
taste.  The  orange,  the  palm,  and  carob 
tree,  wines,  silk,  soda,  red  peppers 
(pimientos),  bass  grass,  rice,  etc.,  are 
most  bountifully  produced  by  the  kind 
mother  earth,  who  smiles  constantly 
on  these,  her  spoilt  children,  the  kindred 
of  the  sun.  The  Huerta  of  Murcia  and 
its  mulberries,  the  valley  of  Ricote  and 
its  citrons  and  oranges,  the  palms  and 
vegetables  of  Lorca,  the  olives  of  To- 
tana  and  Mula,  the  rice-grounds  (arro- 
zales)  of  Calasparra,  the  vines  of  Cieza 
and  Mula,  the  esparto  (Spanish  rush) 
of  Cartagena,  are  celebrated  all  over 
Spain,  and  deserve  the  agriculturist's 
visit.     Manufactures,  workshops,  fab- 


322 


MURCIA. 


rics,  however,  are  harsh-sounding  words 
in  Murcian  ears.  Some  silk  is  pro- 
duced, and  also  some  hemp  and  flax. 
The  chief  exportations  consist  of  es- 
parto goods ;  lead,  silver,  and  mangani- 
ferous  iron  ores ;  wines  and  fruits ; 
with  a  decreasing  amount  of  silk  and 
barilla.  The  importation  is  limited  to 
Andalusia  ;  some  coasting  cattle-trade, 
spices,  etc.,  is  carried  on  with  Cadiz. 

Routes— Objects  of  Interest — Climate. 
— The  heat  is  insupportable  during  the 
summer,  and  winter  here  is  English 
summer.  There  are  valleys  close  to 
the  sea,  where  the  climate  is  most  de- 
licious, an  eternal  spring,  that  youth  of 
seasons,  as  the  Italian  poet  has  it: — 

La  primavera  e  la  gioventu  dell  anno 
Como  la  gioventu  e  la  primavera  della  vita ; 

but,  on  the  whole,  Murcia  is  a  furnace, 
and  during  the  summer  the  houses  are 
hermetically  closed  against  the  enemy, 
the  patios  covered  with  awnings  and 
refreshed  by  fountains ;  and  in  the 
burning  street-pavements  you  will  only 
see,  say  the  natives,  'un  perro  6  un 
frances. '  Ennui  seizes  man  and  beast, 
and  as  Heine  says  of  Aix-la-Chapelle, 
'even  the  dogs  you  meet  look  blasts,  and 
seem  to  beg  you  will  kick  them  by  way 
of  some  emotion.'  A  judicious,  errant 
predicador  monk,  who  used  to  travel 
throughout  Spain,  not  many  years  ago, 
to  preach  and  instil  into  the  souls  of 
sinners  the  awful  tortures  that  awaited 
them  in  hell,  and  the  delights  of 
heaven,  adapted  the  nature  of  both  to 
suit  the  climate  of  his  listeners.  Thus 
in  damp  cold  Oviedo,  he  used  to  de- 
scribe heaven  as  a  land  of  bliss,  all 
sun  and  warmth,  where  it  never  rains, 
save  gold  and  roast  chickens,  and  snow 
is  ignored.  In  Murcia,  his  language 
changed,  and  to  the  brethren,  melting 
under  a  tropical  heat,  he  held  out  the 
enjoyments  that  will  recompense  the 
good  in  the  next  world.  'The  cielo,' 
he  said,  '  was  all  full  of  glaciers  ;  the 


angels  drank  nothing  but  delicious  iced 
Horchata  de  Chufas,  and  a  soft  cool 
imperceptible  rain  bedewed  the  happy 
chosen. 

The  best  seasons  to  visit  Murcia  arc, 
therefore,  spring  and  autumn.  The 
cities  contain  little  to  interest  the 
tourist.  Murcia  and  its  cathedral  arc 
soon  seen.  Cartagena  and  its  port  will 
tempt  few  ;  but  artists  will  do  well  to 
visit  the  sierras  and  valleys,  which 
abound  in  beautiful  scenery.  The 
mineralogist  will  not  fail  to  obtain  new 
data,  and  add  information  to  his  stock, 
about  Cartagena  and  Alicante.  Rail- 
ways— see  Chart. 

The  roads  are  ill  kept  and  rare.  The 
mountain-passes  are  secure,  and  bandits, 
in  their  divers  varieties  of  bandoleros, 
rateros,  saltead6res,  foragidos,  etc.,  un- 
known. 

We  suggest  also,  but  only  as  an  ex 
perimental  tour: 

or  Alicante  to 

Albacete,  rail.  Albacete,  rail 

Chinchilla,  raiL  Hellin,  rail. 

Hellin,  rail.  Murcia,  rail. 

Calasparra,  rail.  Cartagei-x 

Caravaca,  rail.  Murcia,  raiL 

Velez  Blanco,  rail.  Orihuela,  raiL 

Velez  Rubio,  rail.  Elche,  rail. 

Lorca,  cL  Totana,  d.  Alicante,  rail. 

(Tart  anas) 

Almazarron,  rail. 

Cartegena,  rail  or  boats. 

Murcia,  rail ;  Mula,  d.  ; 
Lorca,  Murcia,  etc.,  d. 


Murcia. — Capital  of  province  of  same 

name  ;  pop.  about  30,000. 

Routes  and  Conveyances. — (Set 
Chart.) — From  Granada,  see  Granada. 

1.  From  Madrid. — To  Chinchilla 
Station  on  the  Madrid  to  Alicante  line. 
Time,  9J  hrs.  Change  carriages,  and 
take  line  to  Murcia  and  Cartagena. 
Chinchilla  to  Murcia;  distance,  163  kil. ; 
time,  5^  hrs.  ;  fares,  pes.  18.60,  15.00. 
Total  time  from  Madrid  to  Murcia,  14j 
hrs.  to  15  hrs. 


MURCIA. 


323 


Description  of  llotde. —  Chinchilla, 
6044  inhab.,  province  of  Albacete,  situ- 
ated in  an  arid  cerro,  some  700  ft.  high, 
and  from  which  the  view  extends  to 
the  Sierra  de  Chinchilla,  of  Segura,  and 
Alcarraz,  and  over  the  wastes  of  La 
Mancha. 

Hellin.  —  Celebrated  only  for  the 
merciless  sack  of  the  town  by  the 
French,  under  Montbrun,  and  as  being 
the  point  where  Joseph  Bonaparte,  on 
his  flight  from  Madrid,  united  with 
Suchet  and  Soult,  after  Marmont's  de- 
feat at  Salamanca.  Near  (2  leagues), 
are  the  mineral  baths  of  Azaraque,  and 
4  leagues  distant  the  celebrated  sulphur- 
mines,  worked  by  the  Romans. 

Cieza. — Amid  plains  of  great  ferti- 
lity ;  pop.  10,870.  On  the  Lorqui. 
Near  the  Segura.  Not  far  from  the 
town  is  the  site  where  Publius  and 
Cneius  Scipio  were  defeated  and  killed 
by  Masinissa,  211  B.O.  The  road  to 
Murcia  is  good,  but  the  scenery  is 
monotonous,  and  without  any  interest 

2.  From  Alicante.— The  direct  rail- 
way is  now  opened  ;  two  trains  per  day, 
75  kils. ;  time,  3}  hrs.  For  the  sake, 
however,  of  seeing  Orihuela  and  Elche 
en  route  it  may  still  be  advisable  to 
drive,  devoting  the  whole  day  to  the 
journey,  breakfasting  at  Elche,  and 
arriving  in  Murcia  about  6  p.m.  This 
is  distinctly  a  case  in  which  one  looks 
forward  longingly  to  the  time  when  the 
railway  will  be  completed,  and,  when 
the  desire  is  realised,  sighs  for  the  old 
diligence  days  again. 


Itinerary  by  Road. 
Alicante  to— 
Elche .  ... 

Albatera  .... 
Orihuela  .... 
Murcia 


Leagues. 
4 
4 
3 
4 

»5 


Elche,  see  Alicante, 

Crevillenle. — A  busy  manufacturing 

centre  of  esparto  goods.    10, 000  inhabs. 


Albatera.  — 3500  inhab. ;  on  left  bank 
of  the  Segura.  The  scenery  is  most 
Oriental  all  about  the  Granja  de  Roca- 
mora,  Cox,  Callosa  de  Segura,  the  slopes 
of  the  Cerro  de  Oro,  pregnant  with 
metals,  and  as  far  as  Orihuela.  The 
graceful  palm,  balmy  orange,  the  nopal, 
aloes,  and  other  exotics,  thrive  luxu- 
riantly on  this  American  soil  and 
climate. 

Orihuela. — 21,000  inhab.,  amid  mag- 
nificent plains,  whose  fertility  and 
aspect  remind  one  of  the  huertas  of 
Valencia  and  Granada.  Such  is,  in- 
deed, the  vegetative  power  of  the  soil 
that  the  proverb  runs  thus  : — 

'  Lueva  o  no  Uueva,  trigo  en  Orihuela.' 

This  is  truly  a  favoured  land ;  for 
besides  citrons,  the  exquisite  Orihuela 
oranges,  pomegranates,  the  dates,  the 
prickly  pear,  the  mulberry,  clothe  the 
fields  with  a  rich  foliage  and  golden 
and  ruby  fruit,  and  the  market  or  fair 
held  on  Tuesdays  presents  a  novel  sight 
to  the  Northern  tourist  The  Gothic 
cathedral  (Orihuela  is  a  bishop's  see)  is 
plain  and  small,  with  a  good  silleria, 
with  subjects  from  New  Testament. 
There  are  several  churches,  mostly  in- 
different, and  a  pretty  shady  Paseo  del 
Charro.  Soon  after  the  rich  Huerta  de 
Murcia  appeal's  a  garden  of  delights  that 
gladdens  the  eye  after  the  dreary  plains 
of  portion  of  the  road  we  have  crossed 
hitherto.  At  Monte  Agudo,  observe 
the  very  picturesque  Moorish  castle 
rising  with  its  numerous  and  well-pre- 
served turrets  on  an  isolated  hill ;  and 
now  in  the  distance  we  can  descry  the 
towers  of  the  cathedral  of  Murcia  soar- 
ing  above  the  lofty  palms  and  groves  of 
mulberry  trees. 

3.  From  Cartagena.  See  that  name, 
2  J  hrs.  by  raiL 

General  Description. — Placed  on  a 
plateau  some  4  miles  N.  to  S.,  and  at 
442  ft.  above  the  sea,  Murcia  lies  ex- 
posed to  the  burning  winds.    In  winter, 


324 


MURCIA* 


the  N.  winds  prevail ;  in  the  spring, 
the  £.  ;  in  the  summer,  the  S.  ;  and 
then  Murcia  is  scarcely  habitable,  the 
thermometer  rarely  falling  below  25°  to 
24°  Rb .  Rain  is  very  scarce  ;  indeed, 
whole  years  often  elapse  without  one 
single  drop  falling  to  refresh  the  parched- 
up  Murcianos  and  their  soil ;  in  such 
years  many  Tillages  are  deserted  and  a 
real  panic  takes  place.  It  is,  therefore, 
the  last  place  to  send  invalids,  unless  it 
be  to  hasten  their  ultimate  cure — death. 

Hotels. — Hotel  Universal,  Plaza  San 
Francisco  8,  very  good  ;  Hotel  Patron, 
31  Principe  Alfonso,  fair;  Hospedaje 
de  la  Catedral,  poor,  but  offices  of  the 
diligences.  The  coaches  start  some- 
what irregularly  from  the  three  hotels ; 
careful  inquiry  necessary. 

The  city  lies  a  mass  of  houses  em- 
bosomed amid  groves  of  palms,  oranges, 
citrons,  nopals,  and  mulberry-trees.  The 
streets  are  very  narrow,  but  here  and 
there  are  little  squares  and  gardens  filled 
with  trees  and  flowers.  The  houses  are 
mostly  painted,  pink  and  blue  predomi- 
nating, thus  enlivening  a  good  deal  the 
otherwise  dull  and  silent,  tradeless  and 
backward  city,  which  looks  like  the 
temple  of  Ocio,  dolce  far  niente,  the 
palace  of  Queen  Siesta,  that  sister  of 
Queen  Mab— where  a  population  of  in- 
dolent, tawny-skinned  Mursiah  Moors 
lie  under  the  shade  of  palms,  dreaming 
that  they  are  Spaniards,  that  they  live 
in  the  19  th  century  instead  of  the  11th, 
that  their  mosque  has  been  converted 
into  an  infidel  heathenish  Catholic 
cathedral,  and,  the  dream  becoming  a 
nightmare,  the  Evil  One  is  heard  hiss- 
ing and  roaring  at  the  gates  under  the 
shape  of  a  railway  engine,  and  bringing 
hosts  of  roumis  and  giaours,  come  to 
violate  their  sacred  Koran,  their  sacred 
siesta,  and  sacred  backwardness,  with 
harsh  words — such  as  trade,  education, 
progress,  civilisation,  and  turron,  not 
only  that  made  now  at  Alicante,  the 


favourite  sweetmeat  of  rancid  palates, 
but  that  confectioned  by  the  Budget, 
and  of  which  all  empleados  and  preten- 
ientes  are  so  greedy. 

There  is  little  or  no  art  at  Murcia ; 
books  and  snow  are  unlike  unknown  ; 
where  the  body  melts  into  water,  the 
mind  cannot  be  active  or  strong  ;  and, 
besides  the  cathedral,  the  general  aspect 
of  the  town  and  environs — to  see  which, 
do  not  fail  to  ascend  the  cathedral  tower 
— the  dress  of  the  people,  the  walks, 
etc.,  there  is  nothing  to  be  noticed ;  the 
sooner,  therefore,  that  the  tourist  leaves 
this  frying-pan  the  better. 

Historical  Notice. — The  town  is 
scarcely  mentioned  in  Spanish  annals  be- 
fore the  beginning  of  8th  century,  when 
it  was  taken  by  the  Berbers,  and  belonged 
successively  to  the  Khalifs  of  Damascus, 
Baghdad,  and  finally  of  Cordova.  In 
13th  century,  about  1236,  when  the 
Cordovese  empire  was  dismembered, 
Murcia,  Medinah  Mursiah,  became  the 
capital  of  an  independent  kingdom,  and 
the  usurper,  Aben-Hudiel,  was  its  first 
king.  It  was  shortly  after,  and  on  a 
sudden,  assailed  by  the  Moors  of  Gra- 
nada, and  Ferdinand  III.  of  Castile, 
whose  aid  the  Murcians  had  obtained, 
turned  against  his  allies,  and  finally 
annexed  it  to  Castile  in  1240.  Having 
rebelled  again,  it  was  reconquered  by 
Alfonso  el  Sabio.  It  has  never  played 
any  important  part  in  history,  and  the 
Bceotia  of  Spain  has  been  always 
neglected  and  scorned ;  but  although 
illiterate,  the  Murcians  are  not  wanting 
in  courage,  which  they  showed  during 
the  war  of  succession  when  they  sided 
with  Philip  V.;  and  its  gallant  Bishop 
defended  the  town,  took  Orihuela,  and 
laid  siege  to  Cartagena,  which  he  com- 
pelled to  surrender. 

Cfte  (ffatfie&ral. — Begun  in  1353,  was 
modernised  in  1521.  The  facade,  by 
Jayme  Bort,  is  churrigueresque,  deco- 
rated with   saints  and  virgins,  and  a 


MURCIA. 


325 


ridiculous  recessed  central  portal.  Por- 
tions of  the  interior  are  Gothic ;  observe 
especially  the  Portada  or  Portal  de  los 
Apostoles,  the  Trascoro  and  its  elaborate 
niche-work,  the  good  silleria  and  organ, 
and  the  alto  relievo,  in  stone,  of  the 
Nativity,  in  the  chapel.  The  high 
retablo  is  elaborately  carved  and  effec- 
tive. It  is  of  early  style  ;  observe  the 
statues  of  kings  and  saints  ;  and  in  a 
niche,  near  the  entrance  to  left,  a  sar- 
cophagus containing  the  bowels  and 
heart  of  Alfonso  the  Learned,  which  he 
bequeathed  to  the  chapter  of  the  cathe- 
dral. To  the  N.  are  carefully  preserved 
the  bones  of  San  Fulgencio  and  Sta. 
Florentina.  The  sacristy  contains  ad- 
mirable wood-carving  of  beginning  of 
16th  century.  Observe  what  little 
now  remains  of  the  once  numerous  and 
rich  church  plate  and  jewels.  The 
custodia,  by  Perez  de  Montalbo,  1677, 
is  very  elegant  and  rich. 

Chapels,  — There  are  few  works  of  art 
in  them ;  visit  Capilla  del  Sagrario, 
and  notice  a  'Marriage  of  the  Virgin,' 
by  Joanes,  dated  1516.  It  is  not  in  his 
best  style,  and  many  call  it  a  copy  of 
Raphael  (?). 

Capilla  de  los  Velez. — The  portal  is 
to  be  observed  for  its  statues  of  royal 
and  local  saints.  See  the  stone  chains 
outside,  badge  of  the  Molina  family. 

Capilla  de  San  Jose*. — An  excellent 
Holy  Family  ;  a  copy  of  Raphael. 

In  the  Church  of  St.  Nicholas,  ob- 
serve an  exquisite  marble  St.  Anthony 
by  Alfonso  Cano ;  the  expression  of  the 
saint  and  naked  child  are  beyond  all 
praise.  There  is  also  a  good  group 
of  Joseph  and  the  Infant  Jesus  by 
Mala. 

The  Streets  to  visit  are  the  long 
flagged  Plaleria,  where  the  peculiar 
antique-shaped  local  ear-rings  of  the 
peasant  women  are  sold.  The  Calle 
Mayor,  especially  near  the  bridge,  with 
a  good  view  of  the  river  ;  the  pretty 


Paseo  de  la  Glorieta  on  its  banks,  the 
range  of  mountains  in  the  distance. 
The  Principe  Alfonso  offers  an  interest- 
ing lounge  for  the  different  articles  of 
the  Murcian  picturesque  costume  which 
are  seen  here. 

Promenades — The  fashionable 
walks  are  La  Glorieta,  Del  Carmen,  and 
the  Arenal,  with  an  unmeaning  granite 
monument  to  Ferdinand  VII.  There 
is  a  botanical  garden,  very  abundant  in 
exotics,  a  Plaza  de  Toros,  a  new  theatre, 
and  some  silk  trade  not  exceeding 
200,000  lbs.  a-year  exports.  Artists 
will  not  omit  to  visit  the  gipsy  quar- 
ters at  the  Molecon.  They  may  also 
visit  the  fine  gallery  of  Sefior  Estor,  a 
civil  and  intelligent  '  Inteligente, '  who 
feels  a  real  pleasure  in  taking  visitors 
over  his  excellently  -  organised  collec- 
tion, of  which  most  pictures  are  au- 
thentic. Wo  subjoin  the  following 
remarks  from  Mr.  Hoskin's  work  on 
Spain  : — 

'The  gallery  of  Don  Jos6  Maria 
Estor  contains  some  interesting  paint- 
ings. A  St.  Peter  and  a  Santiago,  by 
Moya,  who  was  born  at  Granada  in 
1610,  and  studied  in  London  for  about 
six  months  under  Vandyke.  There  is 
considerable  talent  in  the  drawing  and 
colouring,  and  they  are  rather  like  the 
first  style  of  Joanes.  18,  20,  32,  and  34. 
Landscapes  by  Rosa  de  Tivoli ;  some 
of  them  exceedingly  good.  60.  An  ex- 
cellent Espinosa,  representing  the 
Martyrdom  of  St  Stephen.  The  saint 
with  his  hands  crossed,  and  raising  his 
eyes  to  heaven  ;  and  the  other  figures 
preparing  to  stone  him,  and  more  es- 
pecially the  two  looking  on  in  the  fore- 
ground, are  very  fine.  81.  A  large 
painting  by  Velazquez,  of  Don  Balta- 
zar  Marradas  on  horseback.  The  head 
of  the  Don  has  evidently  been  cut  out 
to  carry  away.  78  to  80.  By  Cristoval 
Llorens,  who  flourished  at  Valencia  to- 
wards the  close  of  the  16th  century,  but 


r 


326 


MURCIA. 


though  I  saw  none  of  his  works  there 
I  hare  inquired  for  them  ;  all  these 
three  have  been  taken  from  some  altar. 
78.  Representing  St  John  the  Baptist, 
is  wanting  in  dignity.  79.  St.  Joseph 
with  the  child  Jesus  is  fall  of  grace. 
They  are  all  very  good  and  like,  but 
not  equal  to  the  early  style  of  Joanes, 
and  Bermudez  is  thought  to  be  correct  in 
supposing  he  may  have  been  his  pupil. 
82.  A  Dead  Christ,  by  Roelas,  or  as 
he  was  sometimes  called,  £1  Clerigo 
Roelas,  who  was  born  about  1560,  at 
Seville,  where  only  his  best  works  are 
seen  ;  and  admirable  they  are — correct 
in  drawing  and  rich  in  colouring  as  the 
Venetian  schooL  They  are  distin- 
guished, as  Bermudez  says,  for  their 
dignity  and  truthfulness.  This  paint- 
ing has  considerable  merit,  especially  for 
the  fine  effect  of  light  on  the  body,  and 
the  colouring  of  the  figures  arranging 
it.  104.  The  Resurrection  of  Lazarus, 
by  T/orenzo  Alvarez.  A  large  picture, 
containing  seven  Apostles,  and  Martha 
and  Mary.  The  drawing  and  fore- 
shortening very  good,  and  the  colouring 
excellent  120.  A  good  head  of  St 
Francis,  by  Francisco  Zurbaran,  who 
was  born  in  Fuente  do  Cantos  in  1598, 
and  died  at  Madrid  in  1662.  He  is 
called  by  Bermudez  the  Spanish  Cara- 
vaggio,  whom  he  is  said  to  have  imi- 
tated. In  the  drawing  of  his  figures 
there  is  seldom  any  similarity,  but  cer- 
tainly more  in  the  breadth  of  colouring 
and  the  marvellous  effect  of  his  lights 
and  shadows ;  some  of  his  draperies 
are  truly  charming.  131.  Jacob's 
Dream,  by  Pedro  Nunez  de  Villavi- 
cencio,  who  was  born  iu  1635,  in  Se- 
ville, where  he  died  in  1700.  He  was 
a  pupil  and  friend  of  Murillo's.  This 
is  a  good  painting,  and  the  play  of 
light  from  the  angels  on  the  face  of 
Jacob  is  very  beautiful.  137.  A  bust 
and  hands  of  St  Peter,  by  El  Greco, 
wonderfully  drawn  and  well  coloured. 


139.  St  Paul,  by  the  same.     150.  An 
excellent   picture  of   the  Virgin  and 
Child,  said  to  be  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci 
The  colouring  is  good,  and  it  appears  to 
mo  certainly  of  his  schooL      152.   St 
Matthew,  and  an  Angel  sustaining  the 
book  on  which,  he  is  writing,  is  a  good 
painting  by  Joanes ;  the  head  very  fine. 
153.    An  Angel  in  Adoration,  by  the 
same  master;  expression  and  drapery 
excellent     154.    St  Ambrosia.     155. 
St  Jerome.    156.  St  Athanasius.    157. 
St  Augustin.     Very  good  picture,  by 
Nicholas  Borras,  and  extremely  like  the 
first  style  of  Joanes,  his  master.    158. 
A  good  study  of  a  head,  by  Alfonso 
Cano.    159  and  160.  St.  John  the  Evan- 
gelist,  and  an  Angel  in  adoration,  both 
good  paintings  by  Joanes ;  the  latter 
has  a  gilt  ground.    173.  A  Philosopher, 
by  Ribera,  carefully  painted ;  especially 
the  head,  which  is  very  fine.     174.  A 
St.  Peter,  by  Francisco  Bayeu,  who  was 
born  at  Zaragoza  in  1734,  and  died  at 
Madrid  in  1795.     This  painting  is  very 
much  in  the  style  of  Spagnoletto,  but 
with  more  drapery.    175.  A  St  Onofre, 
said  to  be  by  Herrera.      176.    A  St. 
Jerome,  said  to  be  by  Annibal  Caracci, 
but  much  more  like  Ribera.     192.  A 
curious  Italian  painting  of  the  Entomb- 
ment of  Christ,  by  Vicente  Campi,  who, 
according  to  Bermudez,  visited  Spain. 
The  foreshortening  admirable,  and  the 
Saviour,  and  also  the  group  of  soldiers, 
are  very  fine,     204.  An  Angel,  by  An- 
tonia  Pereda.     This  is  not  a  very  pleas- 
ing picture,  though  the  colouring  and 
drawing  are  very  good.     206.  St.  John 
the  Baptist,  entirely  naked,  by  Juan 
Ribalti.     The  drawing  is  fine,  but  the 
colouring  too  red.     207.  Said  to  be  by 
Cano,   but  more   like    Ribera's  style. 
209.  A  Magdalene,  said  to  be  by  Ce- 
rezo,  but  I  think  it  is  a  copy  of  Anni- 
bal Caracci's. 

N.B. — The  Estor  Collection  has  lately 
been  dispersed  [1898], 


J 


NAVARRE 


327 


Do  not  fail  to  visit,  in  the  Ennita 
de  Jesus,  adjoining  the  Church  of  San 
Agustin,  the  nine  Pasos,  by  the 
Murcian  sculptor  Zarcillo,  representing 
the  Passion  of  our  Lord.  They  belong 
to  the  middle  of  the  18th  century,  and 
are  interesting,  though  full  of  weak 
sentiment.  Upon  Good  Friday  these 
Pasos  are  carried  in  solemn  procession 
through  the  streets,  the  representation 


of  the  Last  Supper  alone  requiring  21 
bearers. 

If  any  stay  be  made  in  Murcia,  a 
journey  should  be  taken  outside  the 
town  to  the  Montana  de  la  Fuensanta, 
with  its  convent  and  famous  spring. 
It  lies  to  the  south,  the  ermita  being 
about  half-way  up  the  hill-side,  and 
affords  a  pleasant  walk  of  1J  hour 
(drive  in  three-quarters  of  an  hour). 


NAVARRE. 


Geographical  and  Administrative 
Divisions,  etc.— Pop.  about  317,000  ; 
capital,  Pamplona.  The  province  is  91 
m.  long,  and  81  m.  broad,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Pyrenees  and 
the  Bidassoa ;  W.  by  the  Oria,  and  hills 
of  San  Adrian ;  E.  by  the  valleys  of 
Roncal  and  Anso  ;  and  S.  by  the  Ebro, 
the  surface  measuring  some  4000 
square  miles  of  rocky,  ravined,  hilly 
country.  The  principal  rivers  are  the 
Bidassoa,  which  flows  through  the  val- 
leys of  Baztan  and  Lerin,  emptying 
itself,  near  Iran,  into  the  Atlantic  ;  the 
Aragon,  which  comes  down  from  the 
hills  of  Jaca,  and  crosses  E.  to  W.  the 
northern  portion  of  Aragon  ;  the  Ebro, 
made  navigable  in  some  portion  of  it  by 
the  canals  of  Tauste  and  Tudela ;  the 
Arga,  from  N.  to  S.,  and  at  Pamplona; 
and  the  Araquil,  which  winds  its  course 
between  the  hills  of  Guipuzcoa  and  La 
Cuenca,  of  Pamplona.  Navarre  is  a 
country  of  hills  and  plains,  the  former 
predominating ;  the  highest  range  is  to- 
wards the  eastern  boundaries,  in  the 
province  of  Huesca.  The  broadest  plains 
extend  in  the  southern  portion,  towards 
Zaragoza,   Logrono,   and  even    Luria. 


The  capital  is  the  residence  of  the  cap- 
tain-general of  Navarre,  and  a  bishop's 
see,  suffragan  of  Burgos. 

History. — This  reino  is  the  ancient 
Vasconia,  and  its  name  is  said  to  be  de- 
rived from  an  Iberian  word,  meaning  'a 
plain  under  hills.'  Its  early  history 
is  deficient  in  interest.  The  rude  and 
warlike  Vascones  waged  war  against  all 
who  dared  to  intrude  into  the  peace  and 
seclusion  of  their  fastnesses  ;  they  cut  to 
pieces  the  rear-guard  of  Charlemagne, 
when  he  came  across  the  Pyrenees,  to 
aid  his  Moorish  ally,  Ibn-el-Arabe ;  and 
when,  after  the  failure  of  this  expedi- 
tion, he  was  retiring  to  France  by  the 
defiles  of  Ibaiieta,  at  Roncevaux,  the 
Navarros  mowed  down  the  flower  of  the 
Frank  nobility,  and  amongst  them  Ro- 
land, the  popular  Pyrenean  Cid,  one  of 
the  twelve  peers  of  Charlemagne.  The 
Navarrese  were  then  allied  to  the  Vas- 
cons,  and  headed  in  this  encounter  by 
Loup  II.  (Ochoa,  in  Basque),  who  was 
a  vassal  of  Charlemagne,  a  treason  which 
cost  him  his  life,  as  he  was  subsequently 
taken,  and  ignominiouslyhung :  'Misere 
vitam  in  laqueo  finivit,'  says  a  chart  of 
Charles  the  Boll. 


328 


NAVARRE. 


In  the  earlier  period  of  their  history, 
the  Navarrese  were  governed  by  sheiks 
or  chiefs,   elected  among  themselves. 
The  monarchy,  or  county  founded  by 
Ifiigo  Arista,  about  842,  lasted  till  1512, 
when  Navarre  was  incorporated  to  Cas- 
tile   by  Ferdinand  el  Catolico,    'par 
droit  de  conquSte, '  and  also  by  fraud. 
The  principal  facts  of  its  history  are: — 
Battle  of  Roncevaux,  778  ;  county  of 
Navarre  founded,  842  ;  battle  of  Las 
Navas  de  Tolosa  (Sierra  Morena),  which 
took  place  in  1212 ;  Juan  II.,   who 
poisoned  his  son,  the  Prince  of  Viana, 
and  Blanca  de  Navarra,  his  daughter  ; 
Francois  Phoebus,  and  his  sister  Ca- 
therine, whose  husband,  Jean  d'Albret, 
or  de  Labrit,  was  the  last  king  of  Na- 
varre.   This  latter  was  excommunicated 
by  the  Pope,  for  being  the  ally  of  Louis 
XII.  of  France.     He  was  dispossessed 
by  Ferdinand  the  Catholic  of  all  the 
southern    portion,    but    retained    the 
northern,  or  Basse  Navarre.     His  son, 
Henry  d'Albret,  married  Marguerite  of 
Valois,  sister  to  Francis  I.  of  France, 
and  left  an  only  daughter,  Jane,  whose 
son,  by  Antoine  de  Bourbon  Vendome 
(1540),  was  the  celebrated  Henry  IV. 
(1589).     The  annexation  to  the  crown 
of  France  was  confirmed  by  Louis  XI II. 
in  1620,  who  then  incorporated  also  the 
Vicomte"  de  Beam,  county  of  Narbonne, 
and  other  patrimonial   estates.      The 
kings  of  France  were  henceforth  styled, 
'  Rois  de  France  et  de  Navarre  ;'  and 
the  kings,  on  the  day  of  coronation, 
swore  to  defend  the  '  fors '  (fueros),  or 
fundamental  laws  of  Navarre  and  Beam. 
The  last  time  the  oath  was  taken  was 
Sept.  31,  1775,  by  Louis  XVI.     Ferdi- 
nand, on  his  side,  promised  likewise  to 
respect  these  especial  codes ;  and,  though 
subsequently  modified,  many  of  them 
are  extant  even  now. 

Character  of  the  People,  Dress,  etc. 
— The  Navarrese  are  in  character  very 
like  their  neighbours  the  Aragonese, 


especially  the  inhabitants  of  the  plains, 
those  of  the  hilly  districts  resemble  the 
Basques,  whose  language  they  speak. 
They  are  a  peaceful,  pastoral,  honest, 
uninteresting  people ;  temperate  in  theit 
habits,  proud  of  their  fueros,  and  fond 
of  independence.     The  highlanders  are 
mostly  smugglers,  sportsmen,  and  guer- 
rilleros  to  the  bone.  The  dress  is  partly 
Guipuzcoan,  and  partly  Aragonese ;  the 
chapelgorriy  or  boina,  the  picturesque 
Basque  head-gear,  is  worn  with  a  long 
and  large  tassel. 

Agriculture,  Mines,  etc. — There 
are  some  petty  manufactures  set  up  here 
and  there,  and  iron-foundries.  Cloth, 
paper,  spirits,  soap,  candles,  are  the 
principal  staples.  The  hills  are  clothed 
with  some  noble  forests,  many  of  which 
are  as  virgin  as  those  of  America,  espe* 
cially  at  Garoya  and  Frati,  and  inhabited 
by  countless  casa  mayor  and  wild  beasts. 
The  plains  produce  corn,  maize,  olives, 
flax,  hemp,  and  excellent  wines,  at 
Tudela  and  Peralta.  There  are  some 
good  mineral  springs  at  Fitero,  Garriz, 
Echaurri,  Betelu,  and  Zizur.  The  mines 
in  this  province  are  not  important 
There  is  some  copper  at  Elizondo  and 
Orbaiceta,  lead  near  Vera,  and  salt  at 
Funes  and  Valtierra.  The  natives  live 
very  much  to  themselves,  the  tending 
of  flocks  and  the  cultivation  of  the 
vine  being  the  staple  pursuits. 

Bailways. — See  chart  and  map. 

Koutes. — The  cities  are  uninterest- 
ing (the  cathedral  of  Pamplona  deserves 
a  visit),  but  we  would  recommend 
sportsmen  and  naturalists,  and  all  fond 
of  alpine  and  picturesque  scenery,  to 
explore  the  wild  districts  which  lie 
along  the  frontier  line,  the  mountains  of 
Altabiscar  (5380  ft.),  and  the  Ade  (5218 
ft.),  the  beautiful  valleys  of  El  Baztan, 
Santisteban,  Cincovillas,  etc.  The  trout 
abounds,  and  the  shooting  is  excellent 
The  best  periods  are  autumn  and  sum 
mer. 


NAVARRE. 


329 


The  roads,  the  few  that  are,  will  sa- 
tisfy the  most  fastidious  wayfarer,  and, 
though  narrow,  are  well  engineered  and 
admirably  kept  up  by  the  province. 
There  is  a  pleasant  tour  to  make  from 
Bayonne  to  Pamplona,  by  the  Valley 
du  Baztan,  mostly  by  the  diligence 
road.  It  can  be  easily  performed  in  one 
long  day,  in  a  carriage,  or,  as  we  have 
done  it,  riding,  sleeping  the  first  night 
nt  Elizondo  ;  another  thus  : 


Second  Route. 

Bayonne  to 
Hasparren,  d. 
lrriverri,  d. 
St.  Jean  Pied  de  Port, 

d.  (Sleep) 
Valcarlos,  rid. 
E  spinal,  rid. 
Zubiri,  rid. 
Anchoriz,  rid. 
Pamplona,  rid. 

In  two  days. 


Third  Route. 

Bayonne  to 
I  run,  rail. 
San  Sebastian,  rail. 
Ernani,  d.  )  _„_  -i 

Tolosa,d.  forraiL 
(Sleep) 

Orega,  rid. 
Arraiz,  rid. 
Irurzum,  rid. 
Abescar,  rid. 
Pamplona,  rid. 
In  two  days. 


The  first  two  will  interest  artists  and 
naturalists,  and  the  third  offers  many 
of  the  sites  of  some  of  the  most  cele- 
brated battles  of  the  Duke  of  Welling- 
ton, towards  the  close  of  the  Peninsular 
War. 

In  the  N.E.  portions  of  Navarre,  the 
Cagots,  that  peculiar  race  who,  like  the 
gitanos,  cretins,  etc.,  are  the  French 
and  Spanish  Pariahs,  are  found  in 
some  districts,  especially  about  the 
Baztan.  According  to  most  authors 
on  the  subject,  they  are  the  descend- 
ants of  the  Arian  Visigoths,  who  were 
routed,  with  their  king  Alaric,  by  the 
Franks,  at  the  battle  of  Vouille\  near 
Poitiers  (507).  Many  retired  to  Spain 
N.W.  of  Asturias,  Biscay,  and  N.E.  of 
Navarre,  and  the  rest  fled  to  the  un- 
healthiest  portions  of  France,  to  escape 
persecution ;  but  even  in  those  retired 
regions  they  were  the  butt  of  contempt 
Mid  irony,  and  lived  an  abhorred  race, 


miserable  and  poverty-stricken.  They 
were  denied  Christian  burial,  all  inter- 
course with  other  men,  and  obliged  to 
wear  a  peculiarly-shaped  red  piece  of 
cloth,  as  a  sign  of  distinction  from  the 
common  race,  and  called  pied  du  guid. 
They  had  a  separate  place  in  the 
churches  appointed  to  them,  and  a  dif- 
ferent door  ;  were  not  allowed  to  enter 
bakers',  butchers',  and  other  shops, 
taverns,  etc.  ;  and  their  hair  was  to  be 
closely  cropped.  They  were  mostly 
carpenters  and  rope -makers.  This 
persecuted  race  was  designated  by  the 
name  of  Cacous  and  Caquevx,  in  Brit- 
tany ;  Marrons,  in  Auvergne ;  Coli- 
berts,  in  Maine,  Poitou,  Anjou,  etc.  ; 
Cahots,  in  Gascoigne ;  Cagots,  about 
Bigorre  ;  Cqfos,  in  Navarre,  etc.  They 
must  not  be  confounded,  as  they  often 
are,  with  the  cretins,  golterers,  etc., 
from  whom  they  differ  totally.  The 
Cagots  are  generally  tall,  strongly  built, 
and  with  regular,  not  unintelligent 
features  and  expression.  The  French 
Revolution  suppressed  all  distinctions 
between  this  and  the  common  race  of 
the  inhabitants,  declared  them  French 
citizens,  and  endeavoured  to  raise  this 
fallen  race  to  a  degree  higher  in  the 
social  scale  of  the  country.  In  Spain, 
where  they  are  fast  disappearing,  they 
have  not  ceased  to  be  considered  and 
treated  as  a  race  apart. 

For  the  Botany  of  Northern  Navarre 
consult  the  works  of  D.  J.  M.  de  Lacoiz- 
queta,  'Catalogo  de  las  plantas  en  el 
Valle  de  Vertisama ' ;  Madrid,  1885;  and 
the  '  Diccionario  de  los  nombres  Euskaros 
de  las  plantas,  con  los  Vulgares  Castel- 
lanos,  Franceses  y  cientfficos  Latinos'; 
Pamplona,  1888.  For  the  geology  of  the 
province  the  papers  of  P.  W.  Stuart  Men- 
teath,  in  the  '  Bulletin  de  la  Soctete"  GeV 
logique  de  France '  should  be  consulted. 
A  good  historical  work  is  '  La  Navarre 
I  Francaise,'  by  De  Lagreze;  Paris,  1881. 


330 


OVIEDO 


Capital  of  province  of  same  name.  t 
Pop.  of  province,  about  600,000  ;  pop.  ' 
of  capital,  35,000. 

Routes  from  Leon.— By  rail,  direct, 
140  kils. ;  two  trains  per  day  each  way 
in  about  5  hrs.  A  fine  route;  but 
the  grand  scenery  of  the  Puerto  de 
Pajares,  which  divides  Leon  from  Las 
Asturias,  is  lost  sight  of  in  the  St- 
Gothard-like  tunnels.  The  line  emerges 
for  a  few  hundred  yards  at  the  top, 
nearly  4000  ft  above  the  plain.  Ap- 
proaching Oviedo  the  scenery  is  of  the 
most  beautiful  sylvan  description.  Near 
Campomanes — this  station  is  a  little 
nearer  than  Pola  de  Lena — is  the 
Byzantine  church  of  Cristina  de  Lena, 
a  finely  preserved  type  of  the  9th  cen- 
tury work,  of  which  Asturias  possesses 
so  many  examples.  (See  Santa  Maria 
de  Naranco,  and  San  Miguel  de  Leno, 
or  Lino,  at  Oviedo,  etc.) 

There  is  a  wild,  seldom-followed  mountain- 
ride  that  we  recommend  to  none  but 
hard  riders  and  sportsmen,  who  will 
find  some  excellent  trout-fishing. 
Leave  Leon  on  the  left,  follow  the  ! 
valley  of  the  Vernesga  to  Las  Duefias,  5  leagues. 
Then  to  Truovana,  Villa  Setana,  Carrascante, 
Pola  de  Samiedo,  San  Andres  de  Aguera,  Bel- 
monte,  Grado,  and  turn  to  the  right  to  Oviedo. 
The  rivers  affording  fishing  are,  the  Luna  close 
to  Truovana,  and  the  minor  streams.  There 
are  some  most  romantic  picturesque  points, 
especially  at  Belmonte  and  Pola.  Attend  to  the 
provender,  and  take  local  guides. 

By  road,  over  the  Puerto. — This 
splendid  and  admirably  engineered 
road,  which  was  constructed  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  IV.  at  an  enormous 
cost,  for  which  motive  the  king  called 
it  a  'camino  de  plata,'  lies  amid  most 
picturesque  mountain  scenery,  and  the 
Swiss  traveller  coming  from  Castile  will 
find  himself  quite  at  home.  Alpine 
mountains,  crystal  streams  abounding 
with  trout,  green  valleys,  meadows  of 


rich  blue -green,  chestnut  groves  and 
maize-fields,  will  meet  and  gladden  the 
eye  dimmed  by  the  dust  and  sand  of 
the  desert-like  plains  of  Castile.  The 
road  winds  up  and  down,  and  coils 
serpent-like  around  cloud- crowned  hills. 


Itinerary. 
Leon  to  La  Robla 
Villamacia 
Pajares     . 
Campomanes    . 
Mieres 
Oviedo 


Leagues. 

4 


3 

3i 
34 

33 


The  road  on  leaving  Leon  lies  be- 
tween the  Torio  and  Vernesga  ;  a  steep 
hill  is  then  ascended,  the  Venta  de  la 
Fuerta  is  reached,  and  a  charming 
verdurous  valley  is  descended  into, 
watered  by  the  Vernesga,  and  with 
woody  hills  towards  the  W.  La  Robla. 
Railway  to  Bilbao.  At  Pnente  de 
Alba  the  Vernesga  is  crossed,  and 
several  poor  villages  traversed  ;  then 
top  a  steep  hill,  and  through  a  pictur- 
esque narrow  gorge,  cross  the  Torio, 
on  a  romantic  bridge.  On  leaving  Bus- 
dongo,  the  Puerto  de  Pajares  is  crossed. 
This  passage  is  the  only  practicable  one 
between  Biscay  and  Asturias. 

Observe  the  pilares  placed  to  guide 
the  traveller  and  show  the  way  in  the 
snow-storms  of  winter.  La  Perruca  is 
the  highest  point  of  the  Puerto,  and  the 
first  Asturian  village.  The  small  abbey 
of  Arras,  close  by,  was  established  as  a 
resting-place  for  wayfaring  pilgrims  on 
their  way  to  Compostella.  The  view 
from  this  point  is  extensive,  and  sweeps 
over  green  valleys  and  hills  clothed 
with  trees.  Several  streams  gush  from 
this  vast  reservoir,  and  flow  to  form  the 
Lena,  which  is  crossed  at  Puente  de 
los  Fierros.  (Two  decent  jwsadas  at 
Pajares.)     Pola  de  Lena,  a  good  para- 


OVTEDO. 


331 


Jor,  i«op.  11,600;  the  birthplace  of 
Gonzalo  Bayon,  who  commanded  a  ship, 
under  the  orders  of  Pedro  Mendaz,  an 
Astnriano  also,  at  the  conquest  of  Flo- 
rida, 1565.  The  Lena,  on  right  of 
road,  is  met  here  by  the  Naredo.  N.B. 
— Trout  is  exquisite  and  abundant.  At 
half  a  league  distant  is  a  hermitage  of 
the  9th  century,  called  Santa  Cristina. 

Mieres. — On  the  Lena,  which  is  here 
called  Caudal  (pop.  12,700).  It  isdivided 
into  two  parts,  La  Villa  and  Mieres, 
and  is  the  birthplace  of  several  Asturian 
worthies ;  there  are  excellent  coal-mines, 
iron  and  cinnabar,  in  the  environs. 
The  abundant  coal-mining  district  of 
Langreo  lies  2  leagues  W.  Not  far  from 
the  town  gushes  a  strong  ferruginous 
spring,  de  la  Salud,  opposite  to  an 
English  iron-foundry.  After  traversing 
several  insignificant  hamlets,  continue 
by  Puerto  de  Padron  to  the  fine  marble 
bridge  of  Alloniego,  the  work  of  Re- 
quera  Gonzalez,  who  built  it  close  to  a 
picturesque  older  one,  supposed  to  be 
of  Roman  origin.  The  Nalon,  dear  to 
anglers  and  artists,  flows  beneath. 
The  distant  view  of  Oviedo  is  fine  and 
pleasing. 

From  Santander. —  By 
sea.     See  Gijon. 

By  rail  to  Cabezon  de  la  Sal ;  thence 
by  coach  vid  Vicente  de  la  Barquera, 
Llanes,  and  Rivadesella  to  Infiesto, 
whence  by  rail  to  Oviedo.  The  coach 
stops  for  some  time  at  Llanes,  during 
which  time  visit  the  picturesque  church 
(see  especially  the  S.  and  W.  portals). 
Notice  the  scenery  just  before  reach- 
ing San  Vicente,  where  one  gets  fine 
views  of  the  Picos  de  Europa,  and, 
in  the  early  morning,  about  Las 
Arriondas,  at  the  junction  of  the 
Piloua  and  Sella. 

Or  the  journey  may  be  made  more 


leisurely  and  pleasantly  riding,  by  the 
old  coast  route,  vid  Puente  de  Arce 
and  Santillana  and  round  by  Gijon. 
Thus  :— 

Three  days'  riding.  Sleep,  first  night,  at  San 
Vicente ;  second  night  at  Ribadesella ;  third 
night  at  Gijon,  whence  by  rail  to  Oviedo.  Tho 
angler  will  find  capital  sport  here.  From  Sant- 
ander to  Puente  de  Arce,  and  then  to  Santillana, 
celebrated  for  the  sake  of  its  imaginary  hero, 
Gil  BJas,  and  fine  12th  century  Romanesque 
Colegiata.  This  charming  old-fashioned  town 
is  but  3  m.  from  the  seaport  of  Suances.  Tt  is 
the  birthplace  of  Juan  de  Herrera,  the  architect 
of  the  Escorial.  But  its  chief  attractions  are 
more  positive,  and  we  recommend  the  excellent 
bream,  called  besugo,  and,  indeed,  everything 
caught  in  the  transparent  Besaga.  The  salmon- 
pools  below  MuSonrodero,  close  to  Lucz,  which 
is  itself  ij  league  from  San  Vicente,  will  com- 
pensate for  trouble  and  travesias.  San  Vicente 
(see  p.  332). — Some  of  the  best  fishing  in  Spain 
occurs  between  this  and  Villaviciosa,  especially 
trout-fishing.  The  principal  streams  are,  be- 
sides the  small  and  narrow  Narisa,  the  Deva, 
and  Cares  (in  the  former  splendid  salmon  are 
caught  frequently).  Crossing  the  forests  of 
Liebana,  which  are  among  the  finest  for  timber 
in  the  world,  make  for  Colombres,  then  to  Llanez 
(pop.  3000),  close  to  which  visit  the  neglected 
early  monasteries  of  San  Antolin,  and  San 
Salvado  or  de  Celorio ;  then,  resuming  trout* 
fishing,  visit  the  streams  of  the  Rio  de  Llanes, 
the  Poa,  the  Niembro,  near  Rales,  the  Rio  Ca- 
liente,  and,  close  to  Pria,  the  Aguamia.  The 
fishing  near  Arriondas  is  also  recommended, 
and  the  Sella  affords  sport. 

Ribadesella. — An  excellent  port  and  mole  ; 

pop.  2000.    At  Lloraza  visit  the  interesting  early 

church  of  Sta.  Eulalia,  built  by  Dona  Urraca. 

At  Amandi,  x  m.  from  Villaviciosa,  visit  the 

elaborate  and  well  restored  church,  and,  5  m. 

off,  the  early,  9th  century,  monastery  of  Valde- 

dios.    Villaviciosa,  superior  to  its  etymological 

reputation,  looks  rather  the  city  of  peace  and 

virtue.     Its  only  attractions  are  the  large  avel- 

lanas,  nuts,  its  orchards  produce.     In  the  Casa 

de  Vaqueros,  Charles  V.  slept,  September  19, 

15171  before  he  embarked.    Whence  to  Gijon 

(see  Gijoti)* 

The  following  bridle -road,  32$  leagues,  is 

^        preferable  to  any  other,  as  easier, 

&A   and  crossing  Covadonga.      Sleep, 

4jw2T   first  at  San  Vicente,  secondly,  at  Co- 

Aiiwb  vadonga  [i.e.  Cangas  de  Qnis),  and 

thirdly,  at  Oviedo.    It  is  most  picturesque  and 

interesting  to  the  artist  for  its  early  churches 

and  historical  associations.    There  is  likewise 


532 


OVIEDO. 


very  good  fishing.    Take  a  local  guide,  attend 

to  the  provender,  ami  choose  fine  weather. 

N.B. — There  are  rail  and  coach  from  Santander 

to  San  Vicente,  and  again  between  Cangas  de 

Onis  or  Infiesto  and  Oviedo. 

Santander  to — 

San  Vicente  . 

Abandames  . 

Pefiamelera  - 

Covadonga    . 

Cangas  de  Onis 

Infiesto . 

Siero 

Oviedo  . 


Leagues. 

-  94 

-  4 
*4 

■     4 


-     4 

•  4 

•  _3__ 

San  Vicente.—  Carriages  to  Cabezon,  for 
Santander.  Occasional  steamers  to  Santander, 
Gijon,  etc  This  is  a  poor  village,  with  in- 
different accommodation.  On  November  ao, 
1808,  General  Sarrut  defeated,  with  900  French- 
men, a  Spanish  corps  of  6000  Spaniards  which 
opened  to  them  the  road  to  Oviedo.  The 
angler  will  do  well  to  visit  the  trout  streams  of 
Pozo  de  Monego,  near  Abandames,  and  those 
of  Arenas  and  Carrera,  all  good  quarters  on 
the  Deva;  the  Cares,  Nansa,  and  Lucy  are 
also  excellent.  The  sportsman  can  scour  the 
hills  around  Abandames,  full  of  chamois 
{robeco).  The  botanist  will  investigate  the 
country  around  Covadonga,  and  the  range  of 
hills  called  Los  Cordales. 

Covadonga. — The  approach  to  this  shrine  of 
Spanish  history  and  cradle  of  its  monarchy  is 
finer  as  you  come  from  Oviedo  than  as  you 
approach  from  Santander.  The  river  becomes 
narrower,  its  banks  loftier,  and  rising  per- 
pendicularly like  walls;  the  pathway  is  an 
angostura.  The  scenery  is  wild,  grand,  and 
primitive-looking.  A  vigorous  vegetation  softens 
down  the  hard  outlines  of  the  rocks ;  and  crys- 
tal cascades,  bouncing  through  the  dark  foliage 
of  the  chestnuts,  give  freshness  to  the  air  and  a 
soul  to  the  solitude.  This  was  a  site  well  suited 
for  a  refuge  ;  the  blue-eyed  Goth,  the  watchful 
Iberian,  and  the  descendants  of  conquered 
Romans,  mingled  into  one  race  by  the  com- 
munity of  hatred  and  interests,  fled  to  those 
caves  with  their  relics  and  wealth,  and  issued 
again,  a  handful  of  heroes,  to  conquer  a  throne 
and  a  religion.  In  the  wild  poem  or  legend  of 
Pelayo,  the  facts  of  which  are  confined  within 
a  space  of  2  leagues  only,  Covadonga  recalls 
his  victory ;  Cangas  de  Onis,  his  court ;  Aba- 
mia, his  grave.  The  defile  opens  on  a  small 
valley  bounded  by  three  lofty  peaks ;  that  to 
W.  is  xi  20  metres  high,  and  is  clothed  with 
oaks  and  beech  trees.     At  the  base  of  that  hill 

is  a  rock  50  metres  high,  in  the  centre  of  which 
is  the  far-famed  Cueva,  below  which  rushes  the 

boiling    Deva,    which,    gushing    from    Monte 


Orandi,  forms  a  fine  cascade  25  metres  high 
Opposite   to  the   grotto  rise  the   heights  ot 
Tineo,  and,  behind,  the  peaks  of  Sierra  de 
Europa,  which  from  S.  to  E.  trace  the  bound- 
aries of  the  old  Principado  de  Asturias,  the 
apanage  of  the  heirs  to  the  crown  of  Spain 
The  rock  projects  somewhat  in  the  shape  of  an 
arch  over  the  small  esplanade  at  the  end  of  the 
hiU,  at  an  elevation  of  100  ft.,  whence  it  rises 
300  ft.  more,  till  reaching  the  summit  of  the 
peak.    The  cave  is  reached  by  a  fine  marble 
staircase,  and  is  7  yds.  deep  and  3  to  4  yds. 
high.    The  roof,  sides,  and  floor  are  all  cut  in 
the  rock  itself,  except  a  portion  of  the  latter, 
which  is  of  wood,  through  which  the  Diva  is 
seen  and  heard  rushing  along.    To  this  cave 
Pelayo  retired,  accompanied  by  1000  followers, 
according  to  some,  whilst  others  assert  they 
were  only  300  (Silos  and  Morales),  but  probably 
they  did  not  exceed  70  to  100.    There  is  a 
small  wretched  chapel,  wherein  is  placed  the 
much-venerated  early  image  of  Nuestra  Senora 
de  Covadonga.     Under  the  rock  are  placed  the 
tombs  supposed  to  contain,  on  the  right,  the 
body  of  Pelayo ;  and  to  the  left,  that  of  Alfonso 
I.,  with  those  of  his  queen  and  sister.    Observe 
the  rude  ornaments  of  8th  century  on  the  tombs. 
The  bodies  were  removed  here  from  Abamia, 
where  they  were  originally  placed.     The  epi- 
taphs are  modern  and  absurd,  and  unworthy  of 
that  rude,  stout-hearted  sheik,  a  type  of  gueril- 
leros.     There  have  been  several  half  -  fulfilled 
projects  of  erection  of  churches,  temples,  etc, 
to  this  Asturian  Cid.     A  large  wooden  one 
erected  to  the  Virgen  de  las  Batallas  was  burnt 
down  on  October  17, 17  77,  making  another  fact 
precious  to  the  superstitious,  who,  next  to  num- 
ber 13,  hold  the  7  to  be  the  unluckiest.    The 
small  monastery,  through  which  one  passes  to 
reach  the  Cueva,  is  indifferent  and  not  prior  to 
16th  century.     Charles  III.  ordered  Ventura 
Rodriguez  to  make  the  plans  for  a  magnificent 
Greco -Roman  Santuario,  which  was  to  have 
cost  14  millions ;  but  nothing  came  out  of  the 
project,  save  the  wide  and  solid  foundation, 
which  alone  cost  ^20,000.   The  great  pilgrimage 
takes  place  September  8,  when  Fogatas,  danzas 
de  romero,  and  other  local  curious  and  early 
rejoicings  take  place.    It  is  to  be  hoped  that 
this  inland  route  from  Santander  to  Oviedo  will 
be  soon  completely  opened  up.    There  is  now 
a  good  road  from  Oviedo  to  Cangas,  and  a 
carretera  as  far  as  Cabrales. 

Leaving  Covadonga,  cross  the  hamlets  of 
Riera  and  Soto,  and  visit  Abamia.  A  bamia. — 
Half-a-league  from  Cangas.  A  small  hamlet 
on  a  height,  and  close  to  Corao,  where  Roman 
slabs  have  been,  and  more  might  be,  dug  up, 
and  belong  to  1st  and  2d  centuries  of  Christiac 
era  (two  of  them  may  be  seen  at  Seftor  Corte* 


0  VI  EDO. 


333 


house  at  Cangas).  The  church  of  Santn  Eulalia, 
where  Pelayo  was  first  interred,  has  been  mo- 
dernised, but  possesses  vestiges  of  its  original 
structure  and  ground -plan,  probably  of  12th 
century.  Observe  the  two  curious  sepulchres, 
said  to  have  been  the  original  ones  of  Pelayo 
and  his  queen  Gaudiosa.  The  lateral  portal  is 
of  iath  century.  Observe  round  the  archivolt 
the  very  early  naive  figures,  dragons,  souls  of 
purgatory  in  cauldrons ;  and  among  other  scenes 
represented  on  the  capitals,  and  on  the  right,  a 
figure  drawn  by  the  hair  by  the  devil,  intended 
to  represent  the  eternal  torture  inflicted  on  the 
traitor  Bishop  Oppas.  Then  proceed  across 
chestnut  forests,  and  following  the  Buena  and 
Risiozo  streams  to— 

Cangas  de  Onis. — Pop.  700.  Canicas,  Cuen- 
ca  (shell-like,  broken,  as  Cangas  in  Asturian 
means).  The  court  and  residence  of  the  kings 
of  Asturias,  but  now  without  walls,  a  unique 
and  deserted  street,  modern  poor  houses,  and 
not  even  the  ruins  of  its  palace  and  Pantheon  of 
its  kings.  There  is  a  fine  bridge  on  the  Buena, 
which  joins  the  Sella  here.  The  parish  church 
is  of  1 6th  century  and  indifferent,  and  that  of 
Sta.  Cruz  on  the  opposite  is  abandoned.  It  was 
built  by  Favila  about  735.  Antiquarians  should 
notice  the  early  inscription  on  the  slab,  placed 
on  right,  and  incorrectly  transcribed  by  Morales 
and  others.  It  runs  thus :  Resurgit  ex  preceptis 
divinis  hec  macina  sacra — Opere  exiguo  comtum 
fidelibus  votis — Prespicue  clareat  oc  templum 
obtutubus  sacris — Demonstrans  figuraliter  signa- 
culum  alme  crucis,  etc.  The  capitals  are  per- 
haps earlier  than  the  12th  century,  and  repre- 
sent curious  scenes,  most  rudely  executed,  of 
hunting,  warlike  pastimes,  etc. 

An  excursion  to  San  Pedro  de  Villanucva  can 
be  made  half-a-league  W.  from  Cangas.  This 
former  Benedictine  monastery,  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Sella,  was  built  in  760 ;  it  has  been 
considerably  modernised ;  but  there  are  portions 
worth  a  flying  visit  Observe  the  three  rounded 
apses,  the  lateral  portal  leading  to  the  belfry- 
tower,  and  the  entrance  del  palacio  (why  so 
called  is  ignored).  The  Sella  is  renowned  for 
salmon-pools.  San  Pedro  was  founded  by  Al- 
fonso the  Catholic.  This  king  succeeded  Favila, 
and  united  Cantabria  to  Asturias,  and  was  the 
first  Spanish  monarch  who  was  styled  El  Cato- 
lico,  from  his  love  of  erecting  sees,  building 
churches,  etc.  The  title  was  resumed  by  Fer- 
dinand on  his  marriage  with  Isabella,  and  has 
continued  ever  since.  His  son,  Fruela  I.,  did 
away  with  ecclesiastical  marriage,  which  the 
dissolute  Witizia  had  introduced,  much  against 
the  opinion  and  wish  of  the  clergy,  but  the  re- 
establishment  of  ecclesiastical  celibacy  was  still 
more  difficult  to  obtain,  and  was  principally  the 
work  of  Gregory  VII.     The  capitals  in  this 


church  are  curiously  sculptured,  all  or  mostly  of 
the  12th  century,  and  representing  hunting  and 
war  scenes.  Observe  that  of  Favila  slain  by 
the  bear.  The  site  of  the  combat  is  at  the  point 
of  a  lofty  hill,  close  to  the  church  of  Sta.  Cruz. 
The  capitals  or  sides  of  the  entrance  arch  of 
Chapel  de  Sta.  Maria  are  equally  curious. 

Infiesto. — 300  inhab.  ;  a  tidy  posada. 

Before  entering  the  town,  and  close  to  the 
Pilofta,  which  flows  down  to  meet  the  Sella,  are 
the  ruins  of  San  Pedro  de  Villamayor,  a  good 
specimen  of  early  Byzantine. 

N.B. — The  best  headquarters  for  the 
ascent  of  the  Picos  de  Europa  are  either 
Anquera  (Parador  de  las  Diligencias)  or 
Potes  (Posada  de  Eugenio;  fair).  Two 
days,  at  least,  are  required,  sleeping  at 
the  mines. 

From  Santander. — By  rail  through- 
out, vid  Palencia  and  Leon.  See  official 
time-tables. 

From  Lugo.— There  are  two  roads  ; 
both  require  local  guides,  and  a  fair 
amount  of  '  paciencia  y  parajar. '  The 
scenery  is  inviting,  and  the  fishing  and 
shooting  excellent.  There  are  no  in- 
teresting historical  sites,  and  the  anti- 
quary need  not  rough  it. 

The  shortest  route  strikes  over  the  mountains, 
28  leagues. 

Itinerary. 

Lugo  to—  Leagues. 

Castroverde           ...  4 

Fonsagrada  ....  4 

(Sleep.) 

Peftaflor         .  -\ 

Grandas  de  Salime  1 

Montefurado  2 

Tineo 4 

(Sleep. ) 

Oviedo          ....  10 

28 

The  other  is  not  quite  as  hard  riding,  but 
equally  impracticable  in  any  other  time  than  in 
sqmmer,  34  leagues. 

Itinerary. 
Lugo  to —  Leagues. 

Muras .5 


Fonsagrada . 
Acebo  .        . 
Puente  de  Salime 
Berducedo  . 


3 

a 

3 

a 


334 


OVIEDO. 


Pola  de  AUande  . 
Cangas  de  Tinco 
Tineo  . 
Salas    . 
Grado  . 
Oviedo 


Leagues. 

3 

3 

4 
3 
3 

4 

34 
The  sportsman  will  make  Cangas  de  Tineo 
(pop.  iooo)  his  headquarters.  The  rivers  and 
streams  which  abound  with  salmon  and  trout  are 
the  Navia,  especially  between  Cornellana  and 
Belmonte,  the  Narcea,  the  Luina,  Naviego, 
and  Pequena.  The  three  latter  are  streams  of 
the  hills  called  Cordales ;  the  Nalon,  and  the 
streams  between  Grado  and  Oviedo,  going  by 
PeHaflora.  There  is  some  good  shooting  around 
Cangas  de  Tineo,  and  wolves  abound  in  the 
chestnut  woods  near  the  Guadia  hill. 

A  third  by  the  sea-coast,  crossing 
Mondonedo,  Rivadeo,  and  Aviles,  36 J 
leagues.  Excellent  sea  and  ri  ver  fishing, 
picturesque  scenery,  and  not  very  rough 
tiding.  Local  guides  not  indispensable, 
and  the  roads  very  safe.  ( N.  B.  — From 
Rivadeo  toGijon  chance  steamers,  5  hrs.) 


Itinerary. 

Lugo  to — 

Leagues. 

Quintela    . 

•        3i 

Reigosa 

a 

Mondonedo  * 

3 

Rivadeo     . 

5  short 

Franco       . 

3 

Navia 

a 

Luarca       • 

.        3i 

Las  Bellotas 

3i 

Muros 

■        3* 

Aviles 

«* 

Oviedo 

5 

364 

(With  shorter  road,  daily  dil., 

from  Luarca 

vid  Salas  and  Grade 

0 

From  Lugo  by  Mondofiedo. — At  Mon- 
donedo a  good  posada — a  bishop's  see. 
This  old  irregularly-built  town  is  situ- 
ated at  the  foot  of  three  hills.  The 
cathedral  was  built  1221,  but  has  been 
greatly  enlarged  since,   aud  modern- 

*  A  road  is  now  made  which  passes  by  Vill- 
alba,  avoiding  crossing  the  valleys  of  Quintela 
and  Reigosa.     Mondottedo,  9557  inhabitants. 


ised.  In  the  chapel  del  Santuariodi 
N.  S.  de  los  Remedios  is  the  image 
de  'La  Grande'  or  'La  Inglesa,'  so 
called  because  brought  here  from  St 
Paul's,  London. 

One  league  from  Mondonedo,  on  the 
river  Masnia,  is  a  Benedictine  monas- 
tery, founded  969  by  Count  Gutierre 
Osorio,  It  was  devastated  by  the  French 
Observe  the  fine  tombs  of  the  founder 
and  his  wife  Dona  Urraca. 

Rivadeo. — Pop.  9013  (province  ol 
Lugo).  A  small  theatre  and  decent 
inn.  A  good  safe  port,  situated  on  the 
Eo,  whose  oysters  and  fish  we  recom- 
mend, and  are  very  deservedly  ponder- 
adas  in  Gallicia.  Ascend  to  the  Castillo 
for  the  sake  of  the  charming  view  ob- 
tained from  the  summit  An  excursion 
may  be  made  by  the  Rio  to  Castropol 
(Castros  or  the  City  of  the  Castre, 
Camp  Sevastopol,  Simpheropol,  Liver* 
pool  (?).  Pola  de  Lena,  Pola  de  Al- 
lende).  Anglers  may  pay  a  flying  visit 
to  the  salmon-pools  of  Abres,  2  leagues 
up,  whence  to  the  Navia ;  now  by  aferry- 
boat,  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  to  Figueras, 
the  first  Asturian  village.  The  scenery 
between  Las  Bellotas  and  Avil£s  is 
Swiss-like.  Good  fishing  in  the  Navia 
and  Pravia. 

AvUte. — Is  it  the  Argenteorolla  of  the 
Roman  Handbook,  or  Pliny's  Zoela! 
It  is  first  heard  of  as  Abilies,  in  a  Carta 
de  Donacion  of  Alfonso  III.  in  905,  by 
which  the  houses  and  churches  were 
granted  to  the  cathedral  of  Oviedo. 
11,000  pop.  One  league  from  the  sea, 
with  a  Ria  which  has  a  good  fondiadero, 
called  De  San  Juan.  This  old-fashioned 
town  is  uninteresting,  irregular,  and 
dirty;  a  decent  posada,  and  excellent 
fruit  and  fish.  The  architecture  of  the 
churches  of  Avil6s  is  all  of  one  type, 
fair  Gothic,  of  the  13th  and  14th  cen- 
turies. The  Church  of  San  Nicolas  is  a 
good  specimen.  Its  most  noteworthy 
features   are :     the    facade   with   ani- 


OVIEDO. 


336 


mals  and  engrailed  patterns ;  the  statue 
of  N.S.  del  Carmen ;  and  the  Byzantine 
tombs  of  the  Alas  family  with  their  cant- 
ing arms,  wings.  There  i3,  moreover, 
some  good  sculpture  by  Borgo,  an 
Asturian  sculptor.  The  Casas  Consis- 
toriales  are  worthy  of  a  glance.  Ob- 
serve also  the  houses  of  Marques  de 
Ferrera,  of  Marques  de  Santiago  (Pedro 
el  Cruel  lodged  in  the  Casa  de  Bara- 
gana),  and  the  house  of  Marques  of 
Campo  Sagrado,  a  barroque  fa9ade,  with 
early  towers  and  battlements — salo- 
monic  and  istriated  pillars,  etc.,  with  the 
proud  motto  on  the  arms,  '  Despues  de 
Dios  la  casa  de  Quiros. '  '  La  Merced* 
was  founded  1414  by  one  of  the  Alas, 
and  dedicated  to  St.  Thomas  of  Canter- 
bury. Two  bridges  on  the  Ria  connect 
the  main  town  with  the  suburb  of  Sa- 
bugo,  inhabited  by  sailors  and  fishermen. 
Antiquaries  should  endeavour  to  visit 
and  sketch  the  interesting  Byzantine 
church  (1  league  from  Aviles),  at  Man- 
zanara,  which  is  of  the  11th  century. 
From  Aviles  to  Oviedo  by  rail. 

N.B. — Daily  diligences  run  from 
Lugo  to  Rivadeo,  vid  Villalba,  and  from 
Rivadeo  to  Aviles,  passing  the  Eo  to 
Castropol  on  a  lancha,  and  then  pro- 
ceeding vid  Navia,  Luarca,  Salas,  and 
Grado.  In  this  way  the  whole  route 
may  be  performed  cheaply  in  public 
conveyance. 

Oviedo  ifi  clean  and  healthy,  and 
well  supplied  with  crystal  water  from 
Gitoria,  which  is  brought  by  an  aque- 
duct called  Pilarcs,  which  was  planned 
in  1553  by  Juan  de  Carecedo,  and  built 
1599  by  Gonzalo  de  La  Bercera. 

Climate. — The  cold  is  very  keen,  and 
the  rain,  as  seen  by  the  following  table, 
continues  to  pour  down  quite  a  la 
Inglesa.  The  city  is  nevertheless  very 
healthy,  notwithstanding  a  back- 
ward civilisation,  as  is  proved  by  the 
great    number    of    aged    folk      The 


excnciones  of  the  army  in  this  province 
are  more  numerous  than  elsewhere — viz. 
1924,  mostly  arising  from  defects  and 
illnesses  derived  from  lymphatic  tem- 
perament and  glandular  affections. 
Average  temperature  .        .     13.0 

Maximum        „         (August  xi)      .    33.7 
Minimum         ,,  (January  9)      .      3.! 

Average  pressure  of  atmosphere        .  742. 1 
Number  of  rainy  days       .        .        .  130.58 
Quantity  fallen  .        .        .  lm^2 

Prevalent  wind,  N.E.,  159  days. 

lima.— Hotel  Trannoy,  Calle  Alta- 
mirano  ;  good :  pens,  from  pes.  7£ : 
Hotel  Frances,  Jovellanos,  same  prices, 
fair. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offices,  in 
the  Calle  Milicias. 

Cafes.—  De  Espaila,  Calle  Cimade- 
villa  ;  de  Paris,  Calle  Fruela. 

General  Description. —  Oviedo  is 
sheltered  from  the  N.W.  winds  by  the 
Sierra  de  Naranco,  which  is  about  two 
miles  distant.  Its  principal  streets  are 
little  else  than  highways  leading  to 
Leon,  Grado,  Santander,  and  Gijon, 
and  are  lined  with  unsophisticated 
shops  and  shopkeepers.  The  most 
frequented  are  the  Jovellanos,  Cima- 
devilla,  San  Juan,  and  the  Alamedas 
Campo  de  San  Francisco,  and  Bombe. 
The  Plaza  is  a  fine  square,  and  presents 
a  scene  fit  for  artists.  The  name  is  said 
to  be  derived  from  the  rivers  Ove  and 
Diva,  near  which  Pelayo  routed  the  in- 
fidel. There  are  several  fine  specimens 
of  Asturian  architecture,  but  churri- 
guerismo  and  Greco-Romano  have  de- 
filed several  of  its  edifices.  There  is  a 
tolerable  theatre,  a  hospitable  casino,  and 
the  promenades  of  Bombe,San  Francisco, 
and  the  Jardin  Botanico  are  charming. 
Historical  Notice. — The  city  sprang 
from  groups  of  hermitages,  converted 
with  time  into  convents.  The  church 
of  San  Vicente  was  erected  in  760  by 
Fruela,  but  the  real  founder  was  Alfonso 
el  Casto,  who  removed  the  court  and 
capital  of  his  kingdom  from  Cangas 
and  Pravia,  and  proposed  reviving  here 


336 


OVIEDO — CATHEDRAL 


the  former  splendour  of  the  Gothic 
court  at  Toledo.  For  this  he  spared 
neither  time  nor  money,  and  erected 
churches  and  palaces,  founded  public 
schools,  hospitals,  built  baths,  all  of 
which  contained  magnificent  marbles, 
silver  and  gold  vases,  paintings,  and 
richly-decorated  furniture.  He  like- 
wise fortified  the  city,  built  up  the  aque- 
duct, enlarged  and  repaired  Fruela's 
then  ruinous  basilica  of  San  Salvador, 
etc.  He  also  founded  the  See  (810), 
and  Oviedo  became,  under  his  enlight- 
ened patronage,  one  of  the  most  import- 
ant cities  in  Spain.  In  the  war  of 
independence  Marshal  Ney  was  sent 
with  6000  men,  by  Soult,  against  the 
corps  under  Marq.  de  la  Romana,  Bal- 
lesteros,  and  Worster,  who  retreated 
without  firing  a  shot,  and  thus  leaving 
Oviedo  at  the  mercy  of  the  invaders. 
The  city  was  cruelly  sacked  for  three 
days,  and  sacked  again  not  long  after 
by  General  Bonnet.  The  plunder  was 
considerable,  and  the  horrors  then 
committed  are  not  yet  forgotten. 

Sights.  —  The  Cathedral.  Minor 
churches — viz.  Sta.  Maria  de  Naranco, 
San  Miguel  de  Lino,  San  Julian,  N.  S. 
de  la  Vega,  San  Francisco,  Sta.  Domin- 
go, San  Vicente. 

Cfte  Cat&eDral. — Historical  Notice. — It 
is  built  on  the  site  of  the  basilica  which 
was  raised  by  Fruela  in  761,  rebuilt  and 
enlarged  in  802  by  Alfonso  el  Casto, 
who  dedicated  it  to  San  Salvador,  and 
raised  to  metropolitan  nine  years  after. 
Its  ruinous  state  and  small  size,  inade- 
quate to  the  wants  of  the  growing  popu- 
lation, caused  Bishop  Gutierrez  de 
Toledo  to  pull  it  down  and  build  the 
present  one  ;  the  first  stone  was  laid  in 
1388.  The  works  went  on  slowly,  and 
under  the  direction  and  at  the  expense 
of  succeeding  bishops.  The  only  por- 
tion spared  of  the  former  edifice,  the 
work  of  Tioda,  is  the  Camara  Santa ; 
the  others  have  been  modernised.     The 


cathedral  was  completed  by  Mendott 
in  1528. 

StyU. — Gothic,  of  second  period. 
Not  satisfactory.  Lack  of  restful ness, 
and  much  spoiled  by  modem  frippery 
and  vandalism. 

Exterior — Tower. — This  Gothic  bel- 
fry of  the  period  of  Gothic  decline  is 
about  224  ft.  high,  and  is  of  the  two 
that  were  intended  the  only  one  ever 
built  up.  It  is  very  elegant,  lofty,  bold, 
and  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  in 
Spain.  It  is  divided  into  five  stages, 
and  rests  on  the  four  massive  piers  of 
the  right  arch  of  the  portal.  It  was  in- 
jured by  fire  in  1521,  and  not  completed 
till  1783. 

The  principal  facade  is  on  the  W. 
The  portal  is  divided  into  three  large 
arches,  which  correspond  to  the  three 
naves.  The  central  is  higher  than  the 
rest,  and  the  tower  wanting  was  to  rise 
above  that  on  the  left.  The  ogive  is 
elaborately  worked,  but  is  rather  too 
wide,  and  is  almost  circular,  showing 
the  very  early  Perpendicular  style  in 
Spain  at  that  period.  There  is  too 
much  ornamentation  in  parts.  Nearly 
all  the  niches  are  vacant,  but  over  the 
central  portal  there  are  the  six  figures 
of  the  Transfiguration,  and  busts  of 
Fruela  and  Alfonso  el  Casto.  The 
facade  is  most  effective,  rising  some 
200  ft.  ;  and  is  richly  decorated  with 
crocketed  pinnacles,  highly  ornamented 
parapets,  endless  niches,  etc.  . 

Interior, — Simple  in  plan;  fine  in  pro- 
portion, but  overlaid  with  bad  modern 
decoration  and  furniture.  There  is  a  dis- 
tance of  240  ft.  from  the  central  principal 
door  to  theChapel  of  Trasaltar,and66  ft. 
only  from  lateral  doors  to  the  transept ; 
the  width  of  central  nave  is  3  8  ft.,  and  that 
of  the  lateral  is  28  ft.  There  are  numer- 
ous windows,  but  they  are  not  pointed, 
except  those  to  the  S.,  the  N.  side  ones 
being' blocked  up.  At  each  end  of  the 
transept  there  is  a  fine  coloured  wheel 


OVIEBO. 


337 


window.  The  pillars  are  plain  and 
elegant,  their  capitals  being  formed  by 
leaves.  The  arches  spring  boldly  into 
the  air,  and  under  the  clerestory  runs  a 
gallery,  which  continues  round  the  cen- 
tral nave  and  transept  The  stained 
glass  represents  saints,  is  of  no  great 
merit,  and  dates  1508-12.  Four  mas- 
sive but  not  heavy  piers  support  the 
toral  arches  of  the  spacious  transept.  Ob- 
serve against  the  one  closest  to  Chapel 
del  Salvador,  and  placed  on  a  small 
pillar  with  a  capital  composed  of  the 
pilgrims'  shells,  a  very  early  and  rudely- 
executed  statue  of  the  Saviour,  probably 
a  relic  of  the  former  church,  and  dat- 
ing from  the  beginning  of  12th  cen- 
tury. In  the  southern  arm  of  transept 
is  a  door  leading  to  the  cloisters  and 
Gamara  Santa ;  that  in  the  northern 
arm  opens  to  Chapel  del  Rey  Casto. 
Thus  on  one  side  are  the  ashes  of 
kings,  the  Escorial  of  Pelayo's  dynas- 
ties ;  on  the  other,  the  relics  of  the 
saints,  making  the  transept  a  Via  Sacra, 
worthy  of  the  pilgrims  who  were  for- 
merly wont  to  flock  by*  thousands  to 
either  shrine. 

High  Chapel. — Occupies  the  penta- 
gonal apse.  The  retablo  consists  of 
five  tiers,  each  subdivided  into  five 
compartments,  and  dates  1440.  The 
relievo  figures  represent  the  life  and 
Passion  of  Christ.  The  sculpture  is 
inferior,  only  shown  up  by  hideous 
modern  *  beautifying.'  Over  the  gospel 
side  is  a  niche  with  statue  kneeling  of 
Bishop  Villar,  1490,  and  several  other 
bishops  of  the  15th  and  16th  centuries 
are  buried  here.  The  chapel  is  divided 
from  the  choir  by  an  indifferent  modern 
railing,  a  bad  imitation  of  Gothic.  The 
stalls  are  elaborately  carved  with  fili- 
gree open  work  and  saints  of  Old  Testa- 
ment. 

The  organs  are  churrigueresque  and 
incongruous  as  usual.  The  trascoro 
has  been  sadly  whitewashed,  and  the 


marble  altars  are  heavy  and  indifferent. 
In  the  centre  is  the  altar  of  Nuestra 
Senora  de  la  Luz,  with  a  fine  retablo, 
crowned  with  the  Cruz  de  los  Angeles, 
and  abominable  statues,  on  the  sides,  of 
Ss.  Peter  and  Paul. 

Camara  Santa. — This  is  the  great 
sight  of  the  cathedral  and  object  of  pil- 
grimages and  veneration.  The  chapel 
that  contains  the  relics  was  built  by 
Alfonso  el  Casto.  It  is  18  ft.  long  by 
16  ft.  wide.  It  is  composed  of  two 
rooms  ;  one  is  the  chapel,  the  other  the 
reliquary.  The  former  has  a  groined 
roof,  and  is  lighted  only  from  a  small 
window  placed  at  the  arch  above  the 
reliquary.  On  the  sides  are  six  pe- 
destals, each  of  which  supports  two 
statues  of  apostles.  These  are  of  the 
most  advanced  period  of  the  Byzantine, 
and  date,  probably,  of  time  and  reign 
of  Alfonso  VI.  They  are  caryatides-like, 
stiff,  rude,  but  not  wanting  in  expres- 
sion, and  the  cast  of  the  draperies  bold 
and  easy  ;  their  feet  rest  upon  fantas- 
tical animals,  and  the  pedestals  at  the 
corners  bear  small  pillars  with  curious 
capitals.  The  pavement  is  of  hard 
argamasa,  mixed  with  divers-coloured 
pebbles  to  imitate  jasper  ;  it  is  coeval 
with  the  building.  Observe  over  the 
entrance-door  the  quaint  and  very  early 
Byzantine  heads  of  the  Saviour,  Virgin, 
and  St  John,  formerly  painted  and  then 
whitewashed.  The  twenty-two  steps 
ascending  to  the  Antecamara  date  only 
the  16th  century ;  the  Melicario,  or 
Sanctum  Sanctorum  of  the  Camara,  is 
separated  from  the  rest  by  a  railing. 
Observe  here  the  coffre,  or  armario,  and 
the  celebrated  area,  or  oak-chest, 
covered  with  thin  silver  plating  with 
bassi-relievi  figures  of  Christ,  Apostles, 
Virgin,  St  John.  It  is  6  feet  long  by 
34  ft.  wide,  and  same  height  as  width. 
It  was  made,  not  by  Alfonso  el  Casto, 
as  many  suppose,  but  more  probably  by 
Alfonso  VI. ;  Morales  asserts  the  latter 


338 


OVIEDO. 


in  his  '  Viage  Santo/  but  denied  it  first 
in  his  *  Cronica. '  Around  it  runs  a 
long  inscription  in  Cufio  characters  in 
praise  of  God — a  custom  introduced  in 
Christian  works  after  the  reconquest  of 
Toledo.  The  style  of  the  chiselled 
designs  on  its  four  sides  seems  posterior 
to  the  9th  century.  In  the  front  of  the 
area  are  twelve  niches  with  statuettes 
of  apostles  ;  at  the  corners,  the  evan- 
gelists ;  and  in  the  centre,  the  image  of 
the  Saviour  supported  by  angels.  The 
sides  represent  the  Nativity,  Adoration, 
Flight  into  Egypt,  etc.,  and  the  cover 
Mount  Calvary.  This  area  stands  like 
an  isolated  altar  and  close  to  the  rail- 
ings ;  and  here  kneel  those  who  come 
to  pray  to  the  relics.  These  latter  are 
said  to  have  been  collected  by  the 
Apostles,  removed  from  Jerusalem  when 
it  was  taken  by  the  Persians,  carried  to 
Africa,  then  to  Toledo,  and  after  the 
battle  of  Guadalete  carried  in  haste, 
like  iEneas's  penates,  to  the  Cueva  de 
Monsagro,  8  leagues  from  Oviedo,  and 
added  to  his  collection  by  Alfonso  el 
Casto,  whence  removed  to  Oviedo  in 
895.  The  relics  consist  of  the  usual 
assortments ;  thorns  from  the  true 
cross  ;  one  of  the  thirty  coins  for  which 
Judas  sold  his  Master  ;  the  sudario  or 
shroud  of  the  Lord ;  a  bit  from  Lazarus' 
tomb,  etc.  Observe,  amongst  the 
jewels,  two  historical  crosses ;  the  one 
called  from  its  exquisite  filigree  work- 
manship 'obra  de  los  Angeles.'  It 
dates  808,  and  is  in  the  shape  of  a 
Maltese  cross  ;  beside  the  giver's  name 
and  date  are  anathemas  on  him  or  them 
who  would  steal  it,  and  the  words  '  Hoc 
opus  perfectum  est  in  era  DCCCX1VI,' 
the  XI  standing  for  XL.  The  shape 
was  one  often  adopted  in  that  age ;  a 
magnificent  ruby  and  a  fine  Roman  (?) 
cameo  enrich  it.  The  foot  is  formed 
by  two  kneeling  angels.  The  other 
cross  is  called  de  la  Victoria,  and  is 
asserted  to  have  fallen  from  heaven  on 


Covadonga.  It  is  a  work  of  908,  made 
for  Alfonso  III.  at  Gauzon,  and  about 

5  ft.  high.  Its  enamelled  designs  pre- 
serve great  brilliancy  of  colouring. 
Pope  Eugenius  granted  1004  years'  and 

6  cuarentenas'  (40  days)  indulgence  to 
the  devotos  who  kneel  before  the  relics. 
The  '  Fiesta  de  las  Reliquias'  is  a  great 
semi-pagan  festival,  which  takes  place 
on  March  13,  in  commemoration  of 
their  removal  to  Oviedo.  Few  have 
yet  dared  to  look  into  the  sacred  area ; 
it  is  reckoned  dangerous  to  soul  and 
body  so  to  do,  and  in  1550,  the  Bishop 
of  Sandoval  y  Rojas,  after  fasting  and 
prayers,  ventured  to  open  it,  but  what 
he  beheld  made  his  hair  so  stand  on 
end  that  his  mitre  almost  fell  off,  and 
he  desisted.  It  was  nevertheless  opened 
in  1075,  in  the  presence  of  Alfonso 
VI.  and  Dofia  Urraca,  no  evil  result 
attending. 

CapUla  del  B6  Santo. — Built  by  Al- 
fonso II.  (about  843)  to  serve  as  a  family 
vault  for  himself  and  his  successors. 
It  was  sadly  modernised  in  1712,  by 
Bishop  Tomas  Reluz,  not  a  light  of  the 
church  or  architecture.  The  chapel  out- 
churriguerises  Churriguera,  and  the 
retablos,  cornice,  pilasters,  cimborio, 
etc. ,  are  abominable.  Here  are  buried 
several  of  the  earliest  kings  and  queens— 
viz.,  Froila,  Alfonso  el  Casto,  Alfonso 
el  Magno,  Dona  Gyloira,  wife  of  Ber- 
mudo,  Dona  Urraca,  wife  of  Ramiro  I., 
etc. 

Cloisters. — They  were  begun  in  the 
14th  century  and  finished  in  the  15th  ; 
the  inscriptions  are  mostly  prior  to  the 
building.  Their  architecture  is  Gothic ; 
they  are  not  spacious,  but  elegant  Ob- 
serve the  curious  capitals,  composed  of 
sculptures  representing  hunting  and 
historical  scenes,  and  a  series  of  comical 
pictorial  reviews  of  the  times.  The 
Library \  though  deprived  now  of  many 
treasures,  deserves  investigation,  and  ifl 
the  richest  in  Asturias  ;  its  MSS.  are 


OVIEDO. 


339 


important.  Inquire  for  the  libros  de 
becerro,  or  tumbos  (register-books  of 
deeds),  and  the  very  curious  and  in- 
teresting *  Libro  Gotico,'  an  illuminated 
MS.  of  beginning  of  12th  century,  with 
130  vellum  leaves.  The  dresses  and 
oficios  of  the  time,  and  especially  those 
of  the  officers  of  the  palace,  are  curious ; 
observe  the  queens,  attended  by  their 
maids,  rcdissequa,  and  housemaids,  cu- 
bicularia;  the  kings  with  their  armigeri 
and  prelates,  the  portraits  of  popes, 
etc. 

Minor  Churches.— Sta.  Maria  de  Nar- 
anco.  This  very  interesting  monument  of 
early  Christian  work,  a  mile  from  the  city, 
upon  the  Naranco  cuesta,  was  built,  or  rather 
rebuilt,  according  to  the  'nimia  vetustate 
consumptum'  of  an  inscription,  in  the  year 
848,  by  King  Ranimirus.  'The  exterior  is 
plain  and  massive,  with  heavy  buttresses  and 
deep  eaves.  The  entrance — the  only  entrance 
now— is  by  a  very  slightly  pointed  doorway  on 
the  north  side,  later,  apparently,  than  the  rest 
of  the  edifice,  with  round  and  chamfered 
mouldings  and'  rude  tooth  ornament  The 
porch  is  waggon-vaulted,  with  a  couple  of  heavy 
ribs,  engaged  columns,  and  Byzantine  caps. 
The  interior  also  is  waggon-vaulted,  with  very 
strongly  pronounced  ribs  resting  upon  corbels, 
and  consists  of  a  simple  nave,  about  35  ft.  long 
by  *5  ft.  wide,  with  a  chamber  at  each  end — 
the  Coro  at  the  W.,  the  Capilla  Mayor  at  the 
E.  These  chambers,  or  Tribunes,  are  separ- 
ated from  the  nave  by  three  round  arches.  The 
Coro  is  raised  above  the  nave  flooring  by  three 
steps,  the  Capilla  Mayor  by  one,  and  the  former 
is  lit  by  a  very  lovely  three-light  ajittuz  win- 
dow. An  engaged,  round-arched  arcading,  of 
three  bays,  runs  along  the  N.  and  S.  walls  of 
the  nave,  with  twisted  columns  and  caps,  well 
carved  with  animals,  figures  and  foliage.' 
(See '  Sketches  in  Spain,'  p.  391  et  seq.)  Below 
the  floor  of  the  nave  there  is  a  rude  stone  vault, 
with  an  entrance  on  the  S.  side  of  the  church, 
usually  supposed  to  have  been  only  a  pantheon. 
There  is,  however,  no  evidence  of  such  a  pur- 
pose ;  while  from  sundry  ancient  documents 
ordaining  masses  to  be  said  'in  the  lower 
church,*  the  place  would  seem  to  have  been  a 
second  and  well-recognised  sanctuary. 

San  Miguel  de  Lino  (or  Ufio).— This 
church,  situated  close  to  the  former,  was 
built  by  Kanimirus,  about  850.     The 


Albeldense  mentions  it  thus :  *  In  loco 
signo  dicto  ecclesiam  et  palatia  arte 
fornicea,  mire  construxit  (Ramiro).' 
The  architect  was  Tioda  or  Fioda.  It 
has  not  been  preserved  in  all  its  pristine 
beauty  and  perfection  as  that  of  Sta. 
Maria ;  the  apse  and  collateral  chapels 
were  closed  in  a  hemicycle  and  not  a 
square  shape.  Observe  the  agimeces  at 
each  end  of  the  transept,  the  arches  of 
which  rest  on  four  spiral  istriated  pillars 
(the  most  perfect  is  that  to  the  S). 
'  The  church  is  cruciform  (Idflo,  or  Lefio 
=  Ortiz),  with  lofty  central  lantern,  a 
single  waggon -vaulted  nave,  and  a 
Capilla  Mayor  upon  a  lower  level  than 
the  rest  of  the  edifice.  .  .  .  Much  of 
both  design  and  ornamentation  is 
Moorish.  .  .  .  The  shafts  of  the  great, 
western,  portal  are  covered  with  quaint 
and  very  rude  early  Christian  carvings, 
consisting  apparently  of  scenes  from 
the  lives  of  the  Apostles.' 

Close  to  the  cathedral  are  some  other 
early  churches.  San  Tirso,  built  by 
Alfonso  el  Casto,  has  been  modernised. 
San  Vicente,  the  oldest  church  in 
Oviedo,  built  by  Bishop  Fromistano 
and  enlarged  in  the  11th  century,  was 
modernised  in  1592.  The  learned 
Feij6o  rests  here.  This  monk  was  one 
of  the  greatest  critical  writers  Spain 
ever  possessed,  and  one  of  the  glorias 
of  the  Benedictines.  His  works  are 
'  Teatro  Crf  tico  Universal '  and  '  Cartas 
eruditas  y  curiosas.'  This  monastery 
was  duplex,  that  is,  for  both  sexes, 
just  as  that  of  San  Pelayo,  founded  by 
£1  Casto,  and  called  also  de  San  Juan. 
Ecclesiologists  may  also  visit  the  Con- 
vent de  Sta.  Clara  of  the  13th  century, 
modernised  in  1755,  but  preserving  a 
good  Byzantine  portal.  San  Francisco, 
now  a  hospital,  was  founded  by  Fray 
Pedro,  a  friend  and  companion  of  St. 
Francis  de  Axis.  The  church  has  been 
modernised,  the  high  altar  and  col- 
lateral   naves    are    Gothic.       Several 


IT 


340 


OVEEDO. 


members  of  great  Asturian  houses  are 
buried  here  ;  amongst  them  the  Quiros 
and  the  Valdecarzanas.  In  the  panteon 
of  the  latter,  whilst  the  anniversary  ser- 
vice takes  place,  a  cow  is  introduced, 
which  remains  all  the  time  that  it 
lasts.  Upon  the  Gijon  road,  five 
minutes'  walk  from  the  city,  stands 
the  ancient  church  of  San  Julian.  The 
best  points  are  the  ajimez  window  of 
the  apse,  and  the  columns  on  either  side 
of  the  Capilla  Mayor. 

The  Hospicio  is  a  classical  edifice  of 
Ventura  Rodriguez,  and  dates  1768.  It 
is  very  well  managed  and  decent,  re- 
ceives 700  poor,  gives  work  to  orphans 
and  arrepentidas,  etc. 

La  Balesquida  is  a  poor-house, 
situated  extra  muros,  and  founded  in 
1232  by  Dona  Velasquita  Giraldez.  It 
belongs  to  the  cofradia  or  brother- 
hood guild  of  tailors,  called  Los  Al- 
fayates,  to  which  the  wealthiest  inha- 
bitants belong,  and  whose  statutes  are 
interesting,  and  based  on  great  philan- 
thropy. Their  festival  takes  place  at 
Pentecost  on  the  Campo  de  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

The  University  is  a  large  building, 
built  in  1608,  in  the  Herrera  style. 
The  university  was  founded  by  Arch- 
bishop Vald6s,  who  bequeathed  to  it  all 
his  fortune.  It  possesses  a  library  of 
12,000  vols.,  a  rich  ornithological 
museum,  and  a  good  physical  labora- 
tory. 

The  Town  Hall  (Consistorio,  or  Casas 
Consistoriales)  was  erected  in  1822,  by 
Juan  de  Naveda.  It  is  indifferent, 
though  large.  Under  the  arcade  are 
situated   the  best   shops   in   Oviedo. 


Here,  among  other  curious  documents, 
is  kept  the  fuero  granted  by  Alfonso 
VI.,  not  unlike  in  substance  that  of 
Sahagun,  and  confirmed  by  Alfonso 
VII.  in  1145.  It  gives  an  insight  into 
the  legislation  of  that  time,  and  is 
interesting  for  its  style,  which  marks 
the  transition  from  Latin  to  Romance 
and  formation  of  Spanish.  The  right 
of  dispensing  of  property  according  to 
the  owner's  wish  is  established ;  equa- 
lity before  the  law  of  Infanzones, 
podestades  (counts),  and  the  lower 
classes.  Duels  and  Ma  prueba  del 
hierro  candente '  are  admitted  in  cases 
of  theft,  claims  for  inheritance,  etc. 

The  antiquities  at  Oviedo  are  scarce 
and  indifferent  Of  the  old  walls,  those 
on  S.E.  only  exist.  Near  the  cathedral 
are  some  remains  of  the  palace  of  El 
Rey  Casto,  and  of  his  castle. 

Excursions. — In  1  hr.  to  the  mineral 
spring  at  Priorio,  called  Caldas  (calidas, 
hot)  de  Oviedo,  most  efficacious  in 
cases  of  arthritis,  the  stomach,  and 
paralysis  ;  temperature  41°.  (See  for 
details,  General  Information  :  Mineral 
Baths. )  Visit  at  Priorio  the  Byzantine 
Church  of  San  Juan,  and  observe  its 
hemispherical  apse,  circular  portal 
flanked  by  low  pillars,  with  statues  of 
the  12th  century,  the  image  of  Christ 
between  the  four  beasts  of  the  Apoca- 
lypse, etc  The  thriving  Government 
Gun  Manufactory  of  Trubia  is  close  by. 

Books  of  Reference. — i. '  Historia  de  Oviedo, 
Por  Jose*  Caveda,'  a  4to  MS.  in  Academia  de 
la  Historia. 

2.  '  Antigfledades  de  la  Iglesia  de  Oviedo, 
by  Carballo.  MS.  in  archives  of  Cathedral  of 
Oviedo. 

3.  Aslurias  y  Leon,  by  D.  Jose"  M.  Quad- 
rado  (Barcelona,  1886  :  Cortezo). 


J 


i^^z. 


341 


PALMA  and  Balearic  Islands. 


Though  hitherto  neglected  by  the 
ordinary  tourist  in  consequence  of  their 
out-of-the-way  situation  and  difficulty 
of  access,  this  town,  and  the  Balearic 
Islands  generally,  possess  attractions, 
both  in  climate  and  scenery,  which 
will,  no  doubt,  when  better  known, 
induce  more  frequent  visits.  The  ex- 
cursion, if  not  quite  so  common  as,  is 
certainly  not  less  pleasant  than,  al- 
most any  others  in  Spain.  The  general 
character  of  the  country  is  most  pic- 
turesque and  striking,  partaking  as  it 
does  in  character  of  the  breadth  and 
boldness,  solemn  stillness  and  charming 
strangeness,  peculiar  to  the  neighbouring 
Africa,  although  mixed  with  the  more 
agreeable  variety  and  cheerful  greens  of 
Catalonian  landscapes.  The  climate  of 
Palma  rivals  that  of  Malaga  and  Algiers, 
while  there  are  many  cases  in  which  it 
is  deemed  preferable.  The  architecture, 
although  not  of  paramount  importance, 
still  exhibits  examples  of  high  interest 
to  the  student  of  Spanish  art;  and, 
finally,  the  naturalist  will  not,  we 
think,  have  cause  to  regret  the  excur- 
sion when  he  will  have  examined  the 
flora  peculiar  to  some  localities,  and, 
above  all,  the  exceedingly  curious  no 
less  than  beautiful  grottoes,  and  the 
many  fossils  with  which  the  islands 
abound.  The  inhabitants,  especially 
the  Mallorcans,  are  an  honest,  inter- 
esting, though  not  enterprising  or  pro- 
gressive people,  hospitable  and  unso- 
phisticated. Their  dress,  habits, 
tongue,  and  appearance  have  retained 
much  of  the  primitive  character  of  their 
Moro-Aragonese  forefathers,  and  are  in 
perfect  keeping  with  soil  and  climate. 

History. — The  name  Balearic  has 
been,  and,  we  shall  hope  for  etymolo- 
gists, will  ever  continue  to  be,  a  con- 
stant subject  of  useless  disputation.    It 


may  come  from  Baal,  a  Phoenician  god 
said  to  have  been  worshipped  here  ;  or 
from  Balea,  one  of  the  companions  of 
Hercules  (both  which  suggest  Phoenician 
colonisation) ;  or  again,  from  BdXXetv, 
to  throw  at  or  cast,  designating  thus, 
in  spite  of  more  appropriate  verbs,  the 
country  of  the  strong-armed  stingers,  of 
Classic  celebrity,  mentioned  by  Virgil : — 

'  Et  media  adversus  liquefacto  tempora  plumbo 
Diffidit,  ac  multa  porrectum  extendit  arena.' 

And  Ovid's 

'Non    secus    exarsit,    quam    cum   Balearica 

plumbum 
Funda  facit,'  etc. 

For  here  is  said  to  have  been  invented 
that  powerful  engine,  managed  with 
so  great  art  and  dexterity  that,  Flores 
tells  us,  young  children  were  not  al- 
lowed any  food  by  their  mothers  till 
they  could  sling  it  down  from  the  beam 
or  branch  where  it  was  placed  aloft.  Rho- 
dean  and  Phocean  traders  colonised  apor- 
tion,  calling  the  three  principal  islands 
Gymnesiae,  because  their  wild  inhabi- 
tants fought  naked ;  and  the  smaller 
Pithyusse,  from  the  pine-forests  which 
clothed  their  hills.  Placed  between 
Spain,  Italy,  France,  and  Africa,  the 
Balearics  were  alternately  the  sport  and 
prey  of  whichever  happened  to  be  the 
strongest  at  the  time.  Somewhere 
about  406  B.  o.,  the  Carthaginian 
Hamilcon  and  Hammon  landed  and 
founded  several  colonies,  enlisting  the 
native  slingers,  whom  they  employed 
to  great  advantage  side  by  side  with  the 
famous  Iberian  cavalry  and  Celtiberian 
infantry.  Home,  after  the  third  Punic 
war,  entrusted  the  conquest  of  the 
islands  to  Q.  Cec.  Metellus,  who  soon 
achieved  it,  and  was  consequently 
styled  '  Balearicus.'  New  colonie* 
were  established,  and  under  the  generic 
name  of  'Balearica,'  the  whole  region 


342 


PALMA   AND  BALEARIC   ISLANDS 


became  part  of  Citerior  Spain.  Ruled 
in  turn  by  Vandals  and  by  Goths,  they 
finally  shared  the  fate  common  to  the 
mother  country,  falling  in  798  into  the 
hands  of  the  Moors,  under  whom  they 
reached  the  acme  of  prosperity.  The 
*  Balearics '  were  peopled  by  a  daring 
independent  race,  the  kindred  of  the 
restless  wave ;  and  being  hemmed  in 
on  every  side  by  grasping  invaders,  be- 
came so  many  nests  of  pirates,  who 
flocked  hither,  like  hawks,  from  Algerine 
coasts,  Greece,  and  the  Italian  islands. 
These  people,  undergoing  the  sudden 
transition  from  slaves  to  masters,  spread 
terror  over  the  whole  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean Sea.  Never,  perhaps,  was 
piracy  before  or  after  organised  on  so 
formidable  a  scale,  the  result  being 
a  curious  free  commonwealth  whose 
power  was  courted  and  not  unfrequently 
employed  by  sovereigns.  The  treasure 
accumulated  during  the  piratical  in- 
vasions excited  the  jealousies  of  neigh- 
bouring kingdoms,  which  were  them- 
selves in  a  sense  rival  piratical  asso- 
ciations, although  of  older  date,  superior 
discipline,  and  more  orthodox  claims. 

The  most  important  of  these  expedi- 
tions (some  of  which  were  called  'holy 
crusades')  was  that  of  Don  Jayme  I., 
King  of  Aragon  and  Count  of  Barcelona, 
who,  September  1229,  sailed  for  Palma 
from  the  little  port  of  Salou,  near  Tar- 
ragona, with  a  fleet  numbering  upwards 
of  150  galleys,  carrying  18,000  soldiers. 
The  fleet  encountered  a  severe  storm, 
and  both  crews  and  soldiers  were  terribly 
sea-sick.  'Lamar,'  says,  graphically, 
the  old  chronicler  Marsilio,  in  the 
plain-spoken  lemousin  of  the  day,  'la 
mar  prova  e  assatja  los  ventres  dels 
novels  peregrins  e  encare  dels  antichs 
mariners ;  tots  los  peus  los  vacillan,  els 
caps  han  torbats.'  After  a  desperate 
resistance  Palma  fell,  and  the  usual 
general  repartition  of  the  conquered 
land  took  place  among  the  followers  of 


El  Jove  rei  d'Arago  qui  conferma 
Merce  y  dreg,  e  malrestat  desferma. 

The  crown  of  '  El  Reino  de  Mallorca' 
was  inherited  by  Don  Jayme's  second 
son,  who  became  a  vassal  of  his  eldest 
brother,  Pedro  of  Aragon.  The  inde 
pendent  kingdom  was  finally  merged  is 
the  dominions  of  the  Aragonese  crown, 
under  Pedro  IV.  of  Aragon,  and  sub- 
sequently (sharing  the  fate  of  that 
latter)  became  part  of  Spain. 

Language— Dress— Art.— The  'Mal- 
lorquin'  is  a  corruption  of  the  Catalan 
dialect,  but  the  pronunciation  bespeaks 
proximity  to  Italy,  and  is  softer  than 
at  Barcelona. 

The  following  Mallorcan  words  may  be  found 
useful: — Masc-sing.  lo  and  so,  the  plur.  sas, 
the  fern. -sing,  sa  and  la,  plur.  sas.  When 
applied  both  to  masc.  and  fern.,  sing,  es,  plur. 
ets.  En  is  also  used  for  masc-sing.,  and  na 
for  the  fern.  Son  is  the  neuter.  Puig  is  pro* 
nounced  pooitch,  and  means  a  peak,  a  'puy.' 
Pridio  is  an  estate ;  Raxa,  pronounced  rasha, 
a  villa;  Barranch,  a  glen,  Spanish  'barranca' 
There  is  great  similarity  between  Mallorcan 
and  the  Languedocian  patois  of  Montpellier. 
Indeed,  the  intercourse  was  frequent  between 
that  city,  the  birth-place  of  Don  Jayme  I.,  and 
Mallorca. 

Although  intelligent,  the  people  are 
not  endowed  with  the  vivid  imagination 
to  be  expected  in  that  southern  latitude, 
and  more  given  to  solid  pursuits.  The 
early  popular  poetry  of  Mallorca  is, 
however,  not  devoid  of  charm.  It  is 
Catalan  in  character,  but  more  pathetic, 
and  embued  with  a  wild  Moorish, 
melancholy  feeling,  though  strictly 
orthodox  in  the  mystic  effusions,  which 
are  one  of  its  characteristics.  The 
islands  have  given  birth  to  several 
men  of  note :  the  learned  Ramond 
Lull;  the  antiquary,  Cardinal  Despuig; 
the  missionary,  Serra;  the  painter, 
Mezquida  ;  the  sculptor,  Juan  de 
Marz ;  the  cosmographers,  Jayme  Fer 
rer  and  Valsequa  ;  Jayme  Fabre,  on* 
of  the  foremost  among  mediaeval  archi 
tects,  etc. 


.j 


PALMA   AND   BALEARIC   ISLANDS. 


348 


The  dress  is  picturesque.  The  men 
wear  wide  Moorish  breeches,  calzas ; 
the  Greek  birrete;  the  silken  open- 
breasted  waistcoat,  called  guarda  pits  ; 
white  or  black  stockings  and  rough 
leathern  shoes ;  a  black  cloth  jacket,  el 
tayo;  a-  coloured  sash,  faja;  and  now 
and  then  the  Aragonese  broad-brimmed 
slouch  hat  with  tassels,  and,  more 
ordinarily,  the  motley  kerchief  tied 
turban-like  around  the  head,  complete 
their  costume.  The  women's,  as  usual 
in  Spain,  is  not  so  striking,  and  con- 
sists of  a  white  muslin  or  lace  stomacher, 
Qalled  rebozillo;  the  hair  is  worn  loosely 
on  the  back,  'en  estoffade;'  a  black 
merino  or  silken  boddice  (low  and  '  de- 
collete ')  is  enlivened  by  sundry  metal 
buttons  and  silver  chains  tastefully 
arranged.  They  are  pretty,  with  large 
lustrous  black  eyes,  small  hands  and 
tiny  feet,  good  figures,  and  a  certain 
amount  of  captivating  '  gracia '  and  sim- 
plicity of  manner.  The  men  are  tall, 
dark,  well-proportioned,  and  active. 

.Aaft.— The  part  assumed  by  Mallorca 
in  the  history  of  Spanish  art  has  not  as 
yet  been  clearly  defined.  There  is, 
however,  little  doubt  that  the  native 
school  of  architecture  influenced  not  a 
little  the  formation  of  that  of  Catalufia 
and  Aragon,  and  generally,  therefore, 
the  entire  character  of  Spanish  early 
Gothic.  The  painters  Mezquida,  Bes- 
tard,  Ferrando,  have  left  works  of  no 
transcendent  merit,  but  which  will  be 
usefully  consulted.  Porcelain  suggests 
at  once  the  famous  Majolica  ware, 
known  as  such  at  a  very  early  date, 
for  Dante  already  writes  ('Inferno' 
xxviii.  82) — 

Tra  PIsola  di  Capri  e  Maiolica. 
And  besides  Ferrari  and  others,  the 
learned  Scaliger  expatiates  on  the  excel- 
lence of  the  Mallorcan  pottery,  whence 
the  Italian  derived  the  name,  and,  origi- 
nally, the  style.  The  principal  manufac- 
ture, in  the  15th  century,  was  at  Ynca. 


The  clay  was  found  at  Puigpuiient  and 
at  Estellenchs.  A  plate  of  the  Ynca 
manufacture  may  be  seen  at  the  Museum 
of  Cluny,  Paris.  Yviza  was,  in  the  17th 
and  18th  centuries,  a  good  porcelain- 
making  district. 

Geography— Geology—Statistics.— Tlie 
position  of  this  group  of  islands  in  the 
Mediterranean  is  between  51°28'39"  lat , 
and  3°  40'  38"  long.  W.  Greenwich.  The 
islands  comprised  are — (1.)  Majorca,  or 
as  it  is  more  usually  called,  Mallorca, 
capital  Palma ;  pop.  234,000.  (2.)  Me- 
norca,  cap.  Mahon  ;  pop.  35,114.  (3.) 
Yviza,  cap.  Yviza  ;  pop.  25,000.  (4.) 
Formentera ;  pop.  1620  ;  and  the  islets 
of  Cabrera,  Dragonera,  Conejera,  etc. ; 
pop.  52 ; — making  a  total  population 
of,  say,  296,000.  The  extent  is  147 
square  Spanish  leagues.  Geologists  are 
of  opinion  that  at  the  time  when  Africa 
and  Spain  formed  one  continent,  the 
Balearics  were  also  part  of  the  Spanish 
present  Peninsula,  and  that  they  con- 
stitute the  prolongation  of  the  high 
range  of  hills  which  traverses  the  pro- 
vince of  Alicante,  ending  at  the  Mongo 
Hill  and  Cape  San  Martin,  and  from 
which  they  were  severed  by  some  vio- 
lent dislocation  first,  and  then  gra- 
dually became  further  apart  through 
series  of  submarine  convulsions.  That 
conjecture  would  appear  strengthened 
by  the  fact  adduced  by  Sr.  Bover — viz. 
that  the  direction  followed  by  the  two 
watersheds,  formed  by  the  range  of 
mountains  which  divide  the  islands, 
corresponds  with  that  of  the  hills  in 
Spain,  the  extremity  of  which  is  Cape 
San  Antonio.  Also,  that  these  hills 
cross  Yviza  at  Mallorca,  then  change 
their  course  towards  the  south,  stretch- 
ing along  a  line  that  abuts  direct  east 
of  Bugia  (Africa).  The  Balearics  would 
thus  form  a  link  of  the  chain  connect- 
ing Europe  with  Africa,  and  be  the 
point  of  its  intersection.  The  spon- 
taneous vegetation  and  soil  of  the  south 


3U 


PALMA   AND  BALEARIC   ISLANDS. 


portions  bear  resemblance  to  those  of 
the  north  African  coast,  while  analogy 
has  been  noticed  between  galena  found 
at  Yviza  and  that  of  Almeria  and  Sierra 
Almagrera.  The  fossils,  which  are  scat- 
tered all  oyer  the  islands,  are  of  great 
interest.  There  are  some  mines,  mostly 
neglected.  Copper  is  found  at  Albarca, 
coals  at  Escorca  and  Binisalem,  rock- 
crystal  at  EsteUenchs,  granite  at  Bu- 
ftola,  iron  at  Valldemosa,  salt  in  great 
abundance  and  excellent  quality  south 
of  island  of  Cabrera  ;  different  coloured 
marbles ;  coral  at  Alcudia,  etc. 

The  soil  generally,  but  more  particu- 
larly that  of  Mallorca,  is  one  of  the 
most  fertile  in  the  world,  and  produces 
chiefly  corn,  oil,  wine,  fruit,  hemp, 
flax,  and  some  silk.  The  orange,  lemon, 
and  date  trees  thrive  most  plentifully, 
though  the  latter,  which  has  given  its 
name  to  the  capital,  Palma,  is  not  cul- 
tivated as  it  was  by  the  Moor.  Laven- 
der, marjoram,  rosemary,  and  other 
sweet-scented  plants  embalm  the  genial 
air;  and  fire,  holm-oaks,  and  olives, 
some  of  gigantic  size,  clothe  the  slopes 
of  hills.  The  Balearics  are  hilly,  ex- 
cept in  a  few  central  portions  of  Mal- 
lorca and  south  of  Menorca,  but  the 
hills  are  of  no  great  height,  the  prin- 
cipal altitudes  being  the  following, 
which  occur  mostly  in  Island  of  Mal- 
lorca : — Puig  Mayor  d'en  Torella,  dis- 
trict of  Escorca,  1463  metres  (about 
4798  Eng.  feet) ;  Puig  de  Massanella, 
dist.  of  Selva,  1115  m.  (about  3682  Eng. 
ft) ;  Puig  de  Galatzo,  dist.  of  Calvia, 
984  m.  ;  Coll  de  Soller,  dist.  Soller, 
562  m. ;  Bee  de  Ferrutx,at  Arta,  538  m. ; 
entrance  of  Grotto  of  Arta,  43  m.  In 
Menorca  the  highest,  the  Toro,  is  1227 
Eng.  ft.,  according  to  line,  cited  by 
Bauza,  but  must  be  nearer  4710  Eng. 
ft.  (about  1470  m.),  according  to  more 
recent  authority.  The  islands  are 
scantily  watered ;  the  principal  stream 
is  the  Eiera,  at  Palma. 


Climate. — The  climate  of  Palma — we 
may  also  add  that  of  Soller — is  among  the 
most  temperate  in  Europe.  In  the 
latter  district  it  is  milder  and  more 
equable  than  anywhere  on  the  main- 
land. Snow  is  most  rare,  and  when  it 
does  fall  never  lies  more  than  two  or 
three  days.  The  summer  heat  is  seldom 
excessive,  and  winter  may  be  said  not 
to  exist.  The  S.  region  of  Mallorca, 
sheltered  from  the  violent  N.  winds  by 
the  range  of  lofty  hills  that  extend  N.E. 
to  S.W.,  is  most  temperate  and  mild. 
During  winter  the  thermometer  but 
very  rarely  falls  below  7  cent,  above 
zero  (44°  Fahren.),  and  sea-breezes 
temper  the  air  in  summer.  The  heat 
is  nevertheless  occasionally  oppressive, 
though  the  thermometer  never  reaches 
much  above  90*  Fahren. 


METEOROLOGY  OF  PALMA. 

Temperature 
of  Air. 

i 

*   i 

Months. 

"s 

Aver- 

Maxi- 

Mini- 

M 

te 

age- 

mum. 

mom. 
5-9 

Q 

2 

£< 

December 

x3.8 

22.4 

N.O. 

January  . 
February 

12.8 

19.x 

3-4 

12 

S.O. 

*3-5 

21.5 

6.6 

6 

S. 

March     . 

15-4 

25-5 

5-o 

5 

S.O. 

April  .     . 
May  .    . 

17.6 
ai-5 

26.4 
33-0 

68 

X2.0 

4 

•  • 

s. 
s. 

June  .    . 
July       . 

23- 1 

33-6 

14. 6 

5 

s. 

25.8 

33-2 

19.2 

X 

S.O. 

August    . 

26.0 

35-3 

158 

2 

S.O. 

September 

23-5 

34-0 

II.  0 

10 

S. 

October  . 

18.6 

28.0 

9.0 

7 

N.E. 

November 

15-5 

24.4 

5.5 

7 

N.E. 

Winter 

J3-4 

22.4 

3-4 

20 

S. 

Spring .  ' . 

18.2 

33-0 

5-o 

9 

S. 

Summer    . 

25.0 

35-3 

14.9 

8 

S.O. 

Autumn 

19.2 

34-o 

5-5 

24 

N.E. 

Year     .     . 

18.9 

3S-3 

3-4 

61 

a 

The  luxuriant  growth  of  the  orange-tret 
and  date-palm  are  good  evidences  of 
the  state  of  the  atmosphere ;  indeed 

There  the  human  kind 
Enjoy  the  easiest  life  ;  no  snow  is  there, 
No  biting  winter,  and  no  drenching  shower 
But  Zephyr  always  gently  from  the  sea 
Breathes  on  them,  to  refresh  the  happy  race 


PALMA  AND   BALEARIC   ISLANDS. 


345 


The  climate,  however,  differs  consider- 
ably in  the  N.  region,  where  it  is  damp 
and  cold,  and  wind  storms  not  unfre- 
quent.  The  more  common  diseases  are : 
intermittent  fevers,  catarrhs,  and  pul- 
monias  (pleurisy).  Mortality  at  Palma, 
1  per  40 — the  average  of  Spain  being 
1-34.  The  worst  climate,  where  ague 
is  frequent,  is  found  in  district  of  Al- 
cudia,  owing  to  the  vicinity  of  marshes, 
which  might  be  easily  removed  if  de- 
sired by  the  inhabitants.  In  the 
island  of  Menorca,  though  the  tempera- 
ture is  still  higher  in  winter,  N.  winds 
are  very  frequent,  and  spring  and  au- 
tumn subject  to  variation.  '  Though 
it  may  be  called  a  good  climate,  still, 
in  cases  of  consumption,  the  changes  of 
weather,  when  they  do  occur,  are  felt  a 
great  deal  more  even  than  in  England, 
owing  to  the  uncomfortable  construction 
of  the  houses.  It  is,  however,  a  most 
agreeable  climate  in  winter  and  spring.'* 
But  Soller,  rather  than  Palma,  bids  fair 
to  become  a  favourite  resort.  '  I  don't 
know  that  I  ever  saw  a  country  that 
pleased  me  more  than  that  about  Soller. 
I  have  spoken  of  its  delightful  climate, 
and  its  grand  and  beautiful  scenery. 
The  former  must  be  well  suited  to  affec- 
tions of  the  throat  and  chest ;  and  the 
latter  offers  every  inducement  to  exer- 
cise, and  much  to  please  the  eye  and 
soothe  the  feelings. 't  Sea-bathing  is 
close  by,  and  is  practicable  all  the  year 
round.  The  climate  on  the  whole  is 
relaxing. 

Travelling. — The  largest  of  the 
three  principal  islands,  Mallorca,  is  the 
one  more  frequently  visited.  But  they 
are  all  of  easy  access  by  means  of  lines 
of  steamers  which  ply  regularly  between 
Barcelona,  Valencia,  and  the  chief  ports 
of  the  Balearics.      In     the   interior, 

*  This  information  has  been  kindly  communi- 
cated by  the  late  Consul  at  Mahon,  Mr.  J. 
Considine. 

f  Dodd — Three  Weeks  in  Majorca. 


pretty  well-appointed  diligences  rui: 
between  the  more  important  cities,  and 
the  roads,  where  any  exist,  are  beauti- 
fully constructed  and  well  kept  up. 
There  are  tolerably  good  inns,  hostals, 
where  civility,  cleanliness,  good-will, 
and  moderate  charges,  make  up  foi 
other  wants.  The  best  season  is  be- 
tween January  and  middle  of  June, 
and  winter  for  invalids.  There  are 
clean  and  moderately-sized  houses  to 
let  about  Palma  and  Soller.  The  rent 
is  low,  and  furniture  may  be  hired  at 
Palma  on  reasonable  terms.  From  5  to 
7£  pes.  constitute  the  daily  expenses  at 
inns.  Tourists  will  in  general  confine 
their  attention  to  Mallorca,  which  is  the 
most  picturesque  and  more  easily  tra- 
velled of  the  whole  archipelago.  The 
( lions'  are  :  Palma,  with  its  cathe- 
dral, Lonja  ;  Soller,  noted  for  its  grand 
and  beautiful  scenery ;  Arid  and  its 
wondrousstalactite  grottoes ;  the  scenery 
about  Yalldemosa  ;  the  country  villa, 
called  alqueria,  of  Raja,  its  vale  and 
museum,  and  those  of  Esporlas  and  Al- 
fa via.  From  Yalldemosa  a  visit  should 
be  paid  to  Miramar,  the  estate  of  an 
Austrian  Archduke.  It  is  situated 
some  2000  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  both 
house  and  grounds  are  readily  shown. 
Some  old  furniture  and  specimens  of 
Maj  olica  are  noteworthy.  A  hospederia 
gives  lodging  for  three  nights,  if  de- 
sired, also  attendance ;  but  travellers 
must  bring  their  food  with  them, 
as  there  is  nothing  obtainable  nearer 
than  at  Yalldemosa  (see  also  p.  353 
— Yalldemosa  from  Palma).  Menorca 
possesses  less  interest  and  beauty 
than  Mallorca,  while  Yviza  is  bleak, 
hilly,  roadless  and  thinly  peopled. 
To  visit  the  former,  a  steamer  should 
be  taken  from  either  Palma  or 
Alcudia  to  Mahon,  whence  by  dil. 
to  Ciudadela,  crossing  thus  in  a 
few  hours  the  whole  island.  There 
is    also    a    steamer    between    Palma 


346 


PALMA  AND   BALEARIC   ISLANDS. 


and  Yviza.  No  passport  is  required. 
Take  one,  however,  or  some  substitute 
por  si  acaso. 

Money,  Weights,  and  Measures. — The 
Spanish  money  has  been  introduced 
here,  as  well  as  weights  and  measures. 

Post  Office. — The  same  regulations  as 
in  Spain.  Letters  leave  three  times  a 
week. 

Telegraph.  — There  are  submarine 
cables  between  Yviza  and  Valencia, 
Mahon  and  Barcelona,  Yviza  and  Mal- 
lorca,  Mallorca  and  Mahon ;  and  there 
is  likewise  communication  between  all 
the  principal  towns  of  the  islands.  The 
rates  are  the  same  as  in  Spain  (see 
General  Information),  but  an  extra  fee 
(liable  to  variation)  is  charged  upon  the 
submarine  cables.  The  trade  of  the 
islands  has  been  considerably  developed 
during  the  last  few  years.  The  chief 
exports  are  fruit,  corn,  wine  and  oil, 
despatched  in  coasting  vessels.  The 
manufactures  are  quite  unimportant — 
silk  and  woollen  goods,  corded  stuffs, 
etc.  In  all  the  more  populous  regions 
the  land  is  cultivated  with  the  greatest 
care  and  detail,  and  the  irrigation  is 
worth  a  study.  Administratively,  the 
islands  constitute  a  Captaincy-General, 
the  seat  of  which  is  at  Palma.  A  civil 
province  of  the  third  class,  an  Audien- 
cia,  a  naval  department ;  and  ecclesi- 
astically three  dioceses,  of  which  the 
sees  are  Palma,  Mahon  and  Yviza. 

The  Balearics  abound  with  game,  and 
its  coasts  with  various  sorts  of  fish,  but 
they  are  comparatively  free  of  birds  of 
prey  and  venomous  animals.  Among 
birds  we  may  mention  the  becafigo  (bec- 
figue),  as  good  as  ortolans,  which  feeds 
on  figs  ;  water-fowl  (Gallina  cCaigna) ; 
the  flamant  (Flamench) ;  wild  duck 
(anada) ;  excellent  partridges  (perdifl) ; 
the  Balearic  crane  (aloela) ;  porfirio, 
dear,  says  Pliny,  to  Roman  gastrono- 
mers. Of  fish,  a  sort  of  whitebait, 
aladroch,     sardines,     alatxa,    lobsters 


(cranch),  oysters,  turtle,  etc  The 
island  of  Conejera  is  entirely  peopled 
with  rabbits,  hares,  wild  sheep,  etc. 

Island  of  Mallorca. 

Mallorca,  the  Roman  Balearica  Major, 
whence  its  present  name,  and  the 
Moorish  Mayurkah,  has  the  form  of  a 
trapezoid  square.  It  is  situated  between 
Yviza  and  Menorca,  and  covers  a  surface 
of 586 square kils.  Distances:  200 kil. 
from  Barcelona,  255  from  Tunis,  and 
430  from  Toulon.  Pop.  234,000.  Capi- 
tal, Palma,  often  called  P.  de  Mallorca, 
to  distinguish  it  from  that  of  Teneriffe, 
and  others.  The  principal  cities,  be- 
sides Palma,  are  Manacor,  Alcudia,  Inca, 
and  Porreras.  The  coast  is  somewhat 
steep  and  abrupt  on  the  W.  side,  but 
low  and  sloping  towards  the  sea  every- 
where else.  The  chief  port  is  that  of 
Palma,  some  44  leagues  in  its  broadest 
part ;  secure,  though  somewhat  exposed 
towards  the  S.W.  The  Riera,  which 
formerly  caused  much  injury  to  the 
bottom  of  the  bay,  has  almost  ceased 
to  exist,  and  vessels  can  now  ctme  up 
to  the  mole.  A  more  secure,  but  much 
neglected,  port  is  that  of  Porto  Pi,  close 
by.  The  second  in  importance  is,  how- 
ever, that  of  Soller  ;  but  it  is  insecure, 
and  much  exposed  to  N.W.  and  N*. 
winds.  The  Riera  rises  near  Puigpu- 
iient,  and  falls  into  the  sea  beneath  the 
ramparts  of  Palma  ;  and  though  almost 
dry  in  summer,  it  swells  during  the 
rainy  season,  occasioning  frequent  inun- 
dations. 

Palma.— Capital  of  the  Balearica  ; 
bishopric  ;  residence  of  captain-general; 
seaport     Pop.  65,000. 

Routes  and  Conveyances. —  1. 
From  Barcelona.  —  Direct  steamers 
leave  Barcelona  on  Tuesdays  and 
Fridays  at.  7f  P.  iff.  :  Fare,  1st  cl.,  25 
pes.  There  are  also  boats  which  touch 
at  Soller  or  Alcudia.  For  Soller  direct, 
a  steamer  leaves  Barcelona  every  Sun- 
day: for  Mahon   and  Alcudia   every 


PALMA  AND   BALEARIC  ISLANDS. 


347 


Wednesday.  2.  From  Valencia.  — 
Fairly  good  steamers  leave,  Mondays 
at  7  a.m.  direct,  and  on  Wednesdays 
at  3  P.M.,  touching  at  Yviza.  (These 
sailings  are  liable  to  change.  See 
local  advts.  and  inquire  carefully.) 
Fares  :  a  trifle  more  than  those  from 
Barcelona  (for  steamer  to  Valencia  or 
Barcelona,  see  those  names).  Distance, 
40  leagues.  3.  From  Mahon  (Men- 
orca). — Leave  on  Tuesdays  at  9  a.m., 
touching  at  Alcudia,  and  Thursdays 
at  12  p.m.  direct.     Distance,  100  m. 

Inns.-— The  Grand  Hotel,  new, 
good;  the  Fonda  de  Mallorca,  improved ; 
the  Fonda  del  Vapor;  La  Balear. 
The  charges  are  decidedly  lower  than 
at  Valencia  or  Barcelona ;  say  8  pes. 
a  day,  all  included.  There  is  a  decent 
boarding-house  (casa  de  huespedeB)  at 
51  P6rticos  de  Santo  Domingo,  clean 
and  comfortable. 

General  Description.  —  As  the 
steamer  approaches,  the  picturesque 
shores  of  Deya  come  first  within  view, 
then  follow  the  rocks  of  Valldemosa 
and  Banalbufar  on  our  left ;  a  little  fur- 
ther, Cape  Groser  and  part  of  La  Dra- 
gonera.  Hilly  Santa  Ponsa  rises  in  the 
distance  on  left ;  shortly  after  we  be- 
hold Cape  de  Cala  Figuera  advancing 
into  the  sea  ;  then  Cape  Blanco  on  our 
right ;  and,  nearer  to  us,  on  left, 
Cape  Enterrocat.  The  beautiful,  sleepy, 
sunlit  bay  is  now  entered.  We  pass  off 
Fort  San  Carlos,  and  the  Moorish-look - 
lug  signal-tower,  built  shortly  after  the 
fall  of  Palnia  by  order  of  Don  Jayme  ; 
then  comes  the  little  port  of  Porto 
Pi  on  our  left  We  can  descry  the 
castle  of  Bellver  rising  on  a 'hill,  and 
on  our  right  the  city  of  Palma,  with  its 
pier  like  the  stem  of  a  fan-like  palmito. 

The  first  impression  is  both  striking 
and  pleasing.  Palma  rises,  amphi- 
theatre-like, on  the  gentle  slopes  of  the 
S.W.  portion  of  the  island,  facing  the 
wide,  open  bay  ;  the  pinnacled  turrets 


of  the  Lonja,  since  the  destruction  of 
the  old  bastion-  flanked  walls,  come 
strikingly  into  view  in  the  middle 
distance  ;  while  a  little  more  to  our 
right,  and,  the  most  prominent  feature, 
stands  the  grand  Cathedral,  with  its 
flying  arches,  two  pinnacled  towers, 
and  deep  buttresses  of  its  south  front, 
a  fairy  fabric,  rising,  as  it  were, 
Venetian-like,  out  of  the  sea.  Here 
and  there  some,  lofty  and  deep-green 
palms  may  be  seen,  interspersed  amid 
the  clusters  of  cupola-shaped  belfries 
and  terraced  roofs  of  houses  which 
stand  out  in  somewhat  dark  masses 
against  the  not  distant  hills  and 
blue  Calabrian  sky.  The  streets  are 
mostly  narrow,  and  winding,  but 
clean  and  now  fairly  well  laid.  The 
houses  have  retained  many  features 
of  Moorish  taste,  sense,  and  mediaeval 
habits  of  living;  they  are  mostly 
low,  consisting  of  a  ground  floor, 
an  upper  one,  and  an  attic  (called 
porcho) ;  a  projectingroof,  spread  out  into 
pent-houses,  often  curiously  worked  out, 
shelters  from  the  rain  and  screens  from 
the  sun  the  porcho  below,  which  thus 
becomes  a  shady  gallery  ;  the  rooms 
have  lofty  ceilings  ;  staircases,  not  un- 
frequently  of  great  artistic  merit,  are 
placed  in  the  entrance-hall  or  the  inner 
court — the  Moorish  patio.  There  are 
some  interesting  houses  of  the  16th  cen- 
tury, but  few  earlier,  with  circular  por- 
ticoes and  agimez  windows.  Slender 
fluted  shafts,  the  use  of  varnished  tiles, 
azubjos,  the  fashion  of  upper  galleries 
on  the  model  of  those  of  La  Lonja,  are 
so  many  features  characterising  their 
style.  Examples  may  be  seen,  Calle  de 
la  Virgen  de  la  Teta,  and  Plaza  de  San 
Antonio.  Generally  speaking,  Palma 
has  notably  thriven  of  late,  to  some 
degree  at  a  loss  so  far  as  regards 
picturesqueness.  The  mole  has  been 
extended  to  three  times  its  length. 
New  streets  have  been  opened  out ; 
houses    restored  ;     the    suburbs    of 


348 


PALMA  AND   BALEARIC  ISLANDS. 


Bellver  and  Porto  Pi  sprung  up,  and 
a  tram  line  made  connecting  these 
with  the  city. 

CitttaiL — This  noble  pile — an  elo- 
quent record  of  Mallorcan  greatness — 
was  built  shortly  after  the  capture  of 
the  city,  by  Don  Jayme's  orders,  in 
the  year  1230,  on  the  site  of  houses 
which  were  a  portion  of  his  royal  booty, 
and  then  clustered  in  the  Almudayna, 
near  the  Gate  de  las  Cadenas.  The 
architect's  name  has  not  been  dis- 
covered. The  plan  has  been  ascribed 
to  Pisan  and  also  to  Provencal  archi- 
tects, and  a  Mallorcan  celebrated 
Maestro  de  Obras,  Jayme  Fabre,  has 
even  been  supposed  to  have  directed 
jwrtions  at  least  of  this  building.  The 
High  Chapel  was  begun  first,  and  com- 
pleted in  1232,  on  Don  Jayme's  third 
voyage  to  the  islands.  By  a  royal 
order  of  July  1343,  King  Don  Pedro 
directed  his  treasurer  to  lay  aside  1000 
Barcelonese  sueldos  yearly  for  the 
work  of  '  La  Seo,'  ordering,  besides,  to 
sculpture  his  escutcheon  on  those  por- 
tions erected  with  his  monies.  To- 
wards the  end  of  14th  century,  when 
the  royal  subvention  had  come  to  a 
close,  modifications  were  introduced  to 
obtain  cheaper  work  and  a  more  speedy 
completion.  Besides  voluntary  contri- 
butions, the  zealous  clergy  collected 
large  sums  by  speculating  on  poor 
human  vanity,  in  the  decoration  of 
tombs,  and  granting  of  privileges  to 
stamp  private  arms  on  key-stones,  etc., 
selling  them  for  such  sums  as  13,287r. 
and  the  like.  The  work  was  completed 
in  1601. 

The  style  is  Gothic-Malloroan,  with 
later  portions  belonging  to  the  plater- 
esque.  The  width  is  140  Eng.  feet 
in  the  clear  ;  190  feet  including  the 
chapels.  It  is  rectangular  in  form, 
extending  east  to  west.  Its  main 
"characteristics  are — great    simplicity  ; 


vast  proportions,  both  as  to  width 
and  height ;  broad  unbroken  naves — 
the  centra]  one,  however,  blocked  up 
by  the  choir ;  spareness  of  light ;  sober- 
ness, we  might  add  meagreness,  in  the 
treatment  of  details  and  ornamentation. 
The  tanUrior  is  full  of  massive  gran- 
deur. The  principal  front  is  to  the  W., 
but  the  S.  front  is  the  finest.  Its  door- 
way, called  *  del  Mirador,'  dates  1389,  is 
the  work  of  Pedro  Morey  (ob.  1394),  and 
a  good  specimen  of  Mallorcan-Gothic  ; 
full  of  elegance,  richness,  and  taste. 
Observe  the  broad  ogee,  and  the  deli- 
cately-carved bases  round  the  outward 
archivolt,  called  by  Mallorcan  archi- 
tects '  la  gran  jamband ;'  the  naive 
but  piously -inspired  .niche  statuary — 
apostles,  prophets  ;  and  angels  playing 
on  instruments  ;  over  the  arch,  a  figure 
of  our  Saviour.  The  doorway  is 
divided  by  a  shaft,  with  a  statue  of  the 
Virgin.  The  tympanum  has  two 
relievi ;  the  lower  one  has  for  sub- 
ject the  Lord's  Supper,  the  upper 
one  the  Deity  holding  the  Christ  before 
adoring  angels.  They  are  both  by 
Juan  de  Valenciennes,  1393-97.  The  N. 
door  is  called  *de  laAlmoyna.'  Ob- 
serve in  this  portion  the  quaint,  old, 
square  tower,  with  long-pointed  win- 
dows and  open-work  balustrade.  The 
W.  door  is  the  most  richly  decorated, 
and  a  good  example  of  the  plateresque  ; 
it  forms  a  series  of  'ogival  receding 
arches.     Over  the  door  is  the  inscrip.  : 

'NON   EST    FACTUM    TALE   OPUS  UnI- 
VERSIS     REGNIS     3      REGUM     CAP.    X. 

and  *  160 1, '  the  date  of  its  completion 
It  was  begun  1594.  A  shaft  dividing 
the  doorway  supports  the  escutcheon  of 
Mallorca,  composed  of  four  quarters 
with  bars  of  Aragon  gules  on  or,  a 
castle  on  the  sea,  with  a  palm,  the 
arms  of  Palma,  the  capital.  On  the 
tympanum  a  poorly -carved  statue  of  the 
Virgin.  The  sculpture  is  on  the  whole 
of  no  great  merit. 


PALM  A.  AND  BALEARIC  ISLANDS. 


349 


The  interior,  though  bare  and  cold, 
is  rendered  impressive  from  the  vast 
proportions ;  thus,  the  central  nave 
measures  247  feet  from  the  door  to  the 
high  altar,  and  is  some  147  feet  in  ele- 
vation. It  has  neither  a  transept  nor 
an  apse,  and  is  divided  by  two  rows  of 
seven  octagonal  pillars,  forming  three 
long  lofty  naves,  which  do  not  meet 
behind  the  high  altar  to  form  an  apse, 
but  finish  in  an  aisle  with  three 
chapels,  one  of  which,  the  High  Chapel, 
forms  as  it  were  another  nave. 

This  Capilla  Heal  is  the  earliest  and 
most  interesting  portion  of  the  cathe- 
dral It  was  finished  1232,  and  is 
some  78  feet  long.  It  is  riohly 
decorated.  Ecclesiologists  should  no- 
tice the  andito  or  wooden  gallery 
all  round  —  strictly  Moorish  work, 
though  of  Gothic  style,  and  once 
gorgeously  gilt  and  painted.  Observe 
also  the  windows,  now  blocked  up,  and 
carved  pendentives  supporting  statu- 
ettes of  saints  and  angels,  the  bishop's 
marble  seat,  and  its  niche-work ;  the 
andito — closed  by  a  fine  Gothic  wooden 
railing,  with  excellent  relievo  scenes 
from  the  life  of  the  Virgin,  besides 
several  statuettes  of  saints  in  niches, 
and  in  the  centre  the  effigy  of  the  Vir- 
gin under  a  richly -decorated  canopy. 
Ask  for  the  fine  silver  gilt  custodia.  A 
black  marble  sarcophagus,  heavy  and 
pagan,  is  seen  here.  It  is  the  tomb  of 
King  Don  Jayme  II.,  raised  by  order 
of  Charles  III.  in  1779.  The  rose  win- 
dow and  painted  glass  in  the  cathedral 
should  be  noticed.  They  are  the  work 
of  Fco.  Sacoma.  The  former  marble 
pavement  is  being  repaired,  and  the 
completion  of  the  building  pursued  by 
order  of  Government,  and  under  the 
able  direction  of  Sr.  Peyronnet. 

The  other  chapels  are  devoid  of  much 
interest ;  observe,  however,  in  that  of 
Corpus  Cristi,  a  fine  early  but  injured 
tomb  of  the  first  bishop  of  Mallorca, 


Torella,  a  boon  companion  of  Don 
Jayme,  ob.  1266.  In  Chap,  de  San 
Martin,  war  trophies  and  shields  of  the 
Maxella  and  Pujals  families.  In 
sacristy  of  chapel  of  N.  Srd.  de  la 
Corona,  an  interesting  Gothic  tomb  of 
Bishop  Galiana.  The  figures  and 
animals  were  formerly  painted.  In  the 
recess  of  the  niche  is  a  relievo  with 
priests  and  people  bewailing  the  good 
prelate's  death,  whilst  two  angels  are 
carrying  his  soul  to  heaven.  Compart- 
ments in  front  of  the  tomb  are  also 
filled  with  minutely -carved  figures  in 
doleful  attitudes.  It  dates  1375.  In 
Chap,  de  los  Solas  is  a  tomb  of  Marques 
de  la  Romana,  head  of  one  of  the  sets 
Casas  of  Mallorca,  the  cream  of  the 
local  nobility,  a  hero  of  the  Peninsular 
war;  erected  1811,  by  order  of  the 
Cortes  of  Cadiz. 

The  Choir  belongs  to  the  Gotho- 
plateresque  style,  and  has  two  rows  of 
walnut  carved  stalls.  Observe  the 
arms  and  high  backs  of  the  upper  row, 
with  relievo  scenes  from  Scripture, 
angels,  etc.,  highly  finished  and  of 
great  variety.  The  stone  sculpture 
around  the  Tfascoro  is  the  most  modern 
part  of  the  '  Coro. '  Look  at  the  statues 
of  San  Bruno  and  San  Juan,  brought 
here  from  the  Cartuja  of  Valldemosa, 
and  the  work  of  Adrian  Ferran  ;  and 
pictures  by  A.  Sacchi — the  Assumption 
and  Holy  Trinity.  The  pulpits  are 
plateresque  ;  the  one  on  the  left  is 
reckoned  the  best ;  most  of  the  carving 
is  by  Sales,  1529.  The  Sola  Capitular 
is  of  Gothic  decline.  In  the  centre 
stands  a  fine  tomb  of  Bishop  Munoz, 
ob.  1447.  The  organ  is  of  no  great 
merit  as  an  instrument.  The  huge 
head  of  a  Moor,  commemorative  of  the 
conquest,  which  formerly  hung  down 
from  the  organ,  has  disappeared. 

Minor  Churches. — There  are  few 
other  churches  of  note — though  Palma 
can  boast  of  six  parroquias — and  but 


350 


TALMA  ASD  BJUJLUUC  C1-%\1TS. 


few  of  tLe  twemiy-fccr  m  ira  arraSi  SsretrKr  IIL   ai  the  Eepnblic  oi 

wiiih  exk&ed  as  -fcie  as  1525,  sow  w-  risa  ^  III  J,  with  an  object  to  build 

WeK2jBCBtHB,BeratL^a» —  &a.   Ft 'hay      It  was  drsjgiwd  and 

/.-3MUX.    mir.-tf.r  *-r  .:*  asg^a.  by  A^cio  Sagrera,  1426-1448, 

Iat^t  cjzusJLjiz,  *=rij«s  belfry-tower.  »b»  sec  GcL^Imo  «%^  towards  1420, 

and  nwre  espeeiaZT  tbe  cL:l«vk.  wwi:!  '  Macaro  lUywr'  of  the  cathedral,  and 

if  tbe  on>  Griie  w:rk  *f  the  kssi  —  »s©  enriged  to  bald  it  lor  a  sum  of 


to* 

a&leos^i 


st  a  |**>T« 


of  f  -^  l^=si  rwcTJa 
^ny  roof  rrsg;r.g  oa 


*r:~ 


sr-*: 


*-a 


ire,  >  r^: 


H  is  s^rrocsi-ai  :-r 
Tii*  ^:=r-i  is  of  one 
and  broad,  be:  m^iersised.  Here  i- 
tL*  Ute  Gothic  to&b  cf  the  eeJefcraied 
MaH.TtanwortLT,  Easi>nL=X»  It  is 
inUrestir.  g  for  the  sculpture  and  like- 
ness of  ii»  alabaster  e^T. 

TLe  chnrch  was  began  12S1 ;  the 
ttokten,  lzso  ;  Lnli's  tomb,  1492. 

8ta.Eulalia. — Gothic,  finished  1256 ;    facade  is 


±-»'K<0  iiirtt,  to  weich,  as  usual,  2500 
v«re  sabseqweotij  added.  It  is  square 
in  plan,  with  four  octagonal  towers, 
zrowaed  with  Moorish  indented  battle- 
stents  f.raVing  the  angles;  these  are 
Ifsked  to  each  other  by  a  charming 
pen-work  gallery.  In  the  front  are 
two  exquisitely  designed  Gothic  win- 
lows,  between  which  is  a  fine  door- 
way, with  an  enclosed  arch ;  on  its 
tympanum,  a  huge,  ill-fashioned  angel. 
A  shaft  divides  the  ingress.     The  back 

hat  similar.      The  in- 


ibree  r^ves,  plain  and  good  proportions :  terior,  which  is  now  only  used  for  snb- 
a  fine  rose-window.  Some  pictures  of  scription  balk,  etc.  is  striking  on 
Saoehis,  and  a  fine  Sta.  Eulalia  by  the  account  of  its  constructive  principle, 
native  MezquMa.  Tbe  Hospital  of  San  t  Thus,  the  ball,  which  is  very  large, 
Pedro  and  San  Bernardo  may  be  also  has  a  groined  roof,  which  is  supported 
hurru*Uy  examined.  I  by  only  four  slender   Anted    shafts ; 

Tjonja. A    picturesque  and  typic  '  their  basements  are  slightly  marked 

building,  and  a  well-preserved  example  out  by  the  diameter,  being  greater  than 
of  Mallorcan  (query,  Italianised)  Go-  in  the  rest  The  arches,  palm-like,  rise 
thic  civil  architecture.  The  site  and  freely,  very  slightly  bent.  Some  of  the 
money  to    defray  the   expenses  were  ;  key-stones  are  decorated  with  angels. 

granted  by  Do*  Jay™6*  1233»  to  tne  i  FottT  doors  **  tae  *nglcs-  T*«  flo°r  is 
l'i*ans,  signing  a  rati£cation  of  the  con-  j  paved  with  black  marble.  On  entering 
wntion  passed  between  Count  Ramon  j  Palma,  Charles  V.  is  said  to  have  been 
—    '  — "  TZHTZTu,  !-  so  struck  by  the  appearance  of  this 

*  This  zood  and  learned  savant  was  born  m  .  <*  _"~T        v    v 

Palma! w  a»d  belonged  to  the  court  and  :  building,  that  he  spurred  od  his  horse, 
hott^HoW  of  Jayme  II.    In  his  youthful  days  |  and  anxiously  inquired  whether  it  was 


he  is  said  to  have  fallen  so  desperately  in  love 
with  a  Mallorquina,  that  meeting  her  in  the 
street  whilst  he  was  on  horseback,  he  followed 
her  J„to  a  church ;  nothing,  indeed,  couM  core 
him  of  his  passion  matteureuse  save  the  sight 
«f  a  cancerous  breast  which  in  those  days  of  ig- 
norance there  was  no  Madame  Rachel  to  enameL 
This  doctor  iluminado  was  truly  an  enlightened 
alchymist,  who  wrote  several  curious  books, 
among  which  '  De  Arte  Magna,'  pub.  at  Lyons, 
1304.  Spaniards  ascribe  to  him  the  discovery 
ofnitric  acid,  and  he  is  said  to  have  been  the 
(Srst  to  mention  the  mariner's  compass,  in  his 
'  l)«  Contemplatione/  t»ja. 


Church  or  State  properly.  He  could  not 
restrain  his  satisfaction  on  learning 
that  it  was  of  the  latter  description. 

The  Town-Hall  (Casas  Consistori- 
aUs)  is  an  indifferent  building  of  the 
end  of  16th  century.  There  are  some 
pictures  inside;  a  series  of  108  portraits, 
mostly  daubs  of  Mallorcan  worthies ; 
and  a  fine  Van  Dyck,  St  Sebastian, 
which  was  brought  here  by  Don  Bart 
Verger,  from  Madrid,  and  bequeathed 


TALMA   AND   BALEARIC  ISLANDS. 


351 


to  the  city.  Notice  also  one  represent- 
ing the  funeral  of  Ramon  Lull.  There 
are  some  interesting  MSS.  and  an 
armorial  of  15th  century,  containing 
the  arms  of  the  Bonapart  family — a 
spread  eagle,  stars,  and  lion  rampant. 
The  Bonaparts  were  originally  a  Mal- 
lorcan  family.  Hugo  Bonapart,  a  native 
of  Mallorca,  wassent  in  1411,  by  King 
Martin  of  Aragon,  as  governor  of  Cor- 
sica. Bonaparte  is  the  old  Italian, 
Buonaparte  the  modern  Italian,  and 
Bonapart  the  Mallorcan  spelling.  There 
are  also  some  very  early  charts. 

Castle  of  Bellver.  —  Half-a-league 
from  Palma.    This  old  fortress  stands 
picturesquely  on  a  height  which  the  sea 
washes  on  the  left.    The  highest  tower, 
its  most  prominent  feature  as  one  ap- 
proaches, is  the  Torre  del  Homenage. 
The  fortress  is  circular  in  plan,  strong 
and    massive,    and    has    lately   been 
intelligently  repaired.     The  Castle  de 
Bellver,  the  former  Pulcro  Visio,  or 
Belvidere,  is  so  called  from  the  exten- 
sive view  it  commands.    It  was  erected 
by  Jayme  II.  to  defend  that  part  of  the 
island!     The  works  began  in  13th  cen- 
tury,  Pedro  Salva  directing  them  in 
1309.     In  after  years  it  was  turned  into 
a  state  prison ;   and  its  dungeon,  La 
Hoya,  has  witaessed  many  an  injustice, 
and  scene  of  woe  and  horror.     Jovel- 
lanos,  the  learned  Asturian  writer,  was 
sent  here  in  exile,  a  victim  to  court 
intrigues.      Arago,  who  had  come  to 
Mallorca  in  1808  to  measure  the  meri- 
dian of  the  castle,  was  kept  a  prisoner 
here  during  two  years.    The  patio  and 
Gothic  arched  gallery  are  interesting 
and  quaint  in  style. 

There  are  two  or  three  fine  modern  and 
well-organised  hospitals :  La  Casa  de  le 
Misericordia,  a  poor-house ;  a  found- 
lings' hospital ;  and  the  Hospital  Gene- 
ral, which  is  also  a  lunatic  asylum.  "We 
may  also  mention  the  pretty  Alameda, 
the  chatming  walk  along  the  ramparts, 


from  which  the  view  over  the  bay  is 
very  beautiful ;  the  Plassa  des  OortS) 
the  Born.  There  are  some  pictures  to  be 
seen  at  the  Academia  de  Bellas  Artea — 
a  MS.  catalogue.  Among  others,  a  fine 
San  Sebastian,  by  Mezquida  ;  a  power- 
fully painted  '  Christ  in  the  Desert,'  by 
Bestard,  mentioned  by  Cean  Bermudez ; 
a  very  curious  one  of  15th  century, 
painted  in  the  distempered  style,  repre- 
senting the  legendary  foundation  of  a 
Carthusian  convent,  by  King  Don 
Martin,  ascribed  to  M.  Ferrando ;  and 
several  Juncosas,  P.  J.  Ferrer,  etc. 

We  may  also  mention  to  picture 
amateurs  the  private  gallery  of  Conde 
de  Montenegro,  seen  with  a  card  easily 
obtained  on  application  to  the  mayor- 
domo  of  this  nobleman,  the  owner,  too, 
of  the  alqueria  and  museum  of  Raxa — 
whence  most  of  the  pictures,  curiosities, 
coins,  etc.,  here,  have  been  transferred. 

No.  i.   Banqueting,  by  B.  Veeninx,   1660; 
excellent  perspective  and  chiaroscuro.     No.  io. 
A  landscape,  by  H.  Swaneveldt,  1648.    Nos. 
12  and  21.   Fine  tapestries  with  subject,  SS 
Peter  and  Paul ;  said  to  be  the  very  first  of  the 
kind  made  in  Paris ;  signed  G.  Simonet,  Parigi, 
171 1.     It  was  a  present  to  Pope  Pius  VI.     No. 
20.  Drunkards  Asleep,  by  C.  Borgen.     No.  28. 
An  English  Park,  initials  A.  S.,  on  wood.   Nos. 
41  and  53.  Two  early  oil  paintings,  with  mystic 
subjects,  by  G.  Bosch.     Nos.  60  and  62.  SS. 
Peter  and  Paul,  by  Guido  RenL     No.  63.  A 
good  Ribera,  San  Geronimo.     No.  71.  A  fine 
portrait,  ascribed  to  Van  Dyck.     Nos.  87  and 
88.    Goats,  by   Salv.   Rosa.      No.   89.    Holy 
Family,  by  Andrea  del  Sarto ;  fine.     No.  100 
The    *Beato'    Juan  de   Ribera,  by  Ribalta. 
No.   118.    A  female  portrait,   by  Rubens,  to 
whom  is  ascribed  No.  119,  the  Miracle  of  the 
Loaves.     No.    121.    On  paper,  an  interesting 
sketch    of  M.  Angelo's   subject,    the   Three 
Cardinal  Virtues.     No.  123.  An  exquisite  por- 
trait of  a  female,  by  Van  Dyck.     No.  133.  Por- 
trait of  Poet  Aretin,  by  Titian.     No.  142.  A 
mystic  subject,  ascribed  to  Juan  de  Juanes,  and 
valuable.      No.   145.    Portrait  of  Rubens,  by 
Van  Dyck  (?).    No.  146.  Portrait  of  this  latter, 
by  himself;  full  of  youth  and  life ;  small  eyes 
beaming  with  intellect.     No.    147.   A  young 
woman's  portrait,  by  Myrevelt.     No.  149.  The 
Virgin,  ascribed  to  Zurbaran.    The  Virgin  lack/ 


332 


PALMA  AND  BALEARIC   ISLANDS. 


grace  and  expression :  the  colouring  is  worthy 
of  that  master.  No.  x68.  Holy  Family,  as- 
cribed to  Raphael,  etc.  etc.  The  library 
contains  many  rare  MSS.  and  works  relative 
to  the  history  and  monastery  of  Mallorca  ;  see 
the  parchment  chart  drawn  up  1439  by  Gabriel 
Vallseca,  with  an  autograph  of  Vespuccio's. 
There  are,  besides,  some  good  paintings  in  the 
private  gallery  of  Casa  AriaBy  (a  portrait  of 
Rembrandt,  by  himself) ;  Casa  Armengol  (a 
San  Cosme  and  San  Damian),  by  Van  Dyck, 
etc.  There  are  some  good  libraries :  those  of 
Montesion,  the  Bishopric,  Count  of  Ayamous, 
Sr.  Capdebon,  etc. 

There  is  a  tolerably  good  Plaza  de 
Toros,  not  much  frequented  by  the 
Mallorcan  gentry ;  a  theatre  and  a 
casino. 

Consuls.  —  H.B.M.'s  —  B.  Bosch, 
Esq.  No  Church  of  England  service. 
U.S.  of  America — Ernest  Canut,  Esq. 
France — M.  Laporte. 

Post  Office. — In  La  Glorieta,  a  tri- 
angular square  near  the  Fonda  de 
Mallorca.  Telegraph  Office, — Calle  de 
San  Miguel  46. 

Bankers. — Succursale  of  the  Bank 
of  Spain ;  Credito  Balear ;  Gregario 
Oliver,  Calle  Valero  2. 

Caffs. — Del  Teatro  and  La  Botiga, 
both  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion. 

Doctors.  —  0.  Gonzalez.  Dentist  : 
Ticoulat,  102  Calle  Palaires. 

Theatre.  —  El    Principal :    a    good 
house.     Casino,  and  Plaza  de  Toros. 
Excursions. 

1st.  ToBaja(orRdxa). — Avisittothis 
pretty  and  interesting  Mallorcan  country 
mansion  should  not  be  omitted ;  dis- 
tant from  Palma  seven  miles  ;  convey- 
ances take  up  the  dil.  going  to  Soller.  A 
card  from  mayordomo  of  the  proprietor, 
Sr.  Conde  de  Montenegro,  is  requisite, 
and  easily  obtained.  Alqueria,  from  the 
Arab  Al-Karia,  literally  means  '  a 
cluster  of  farm-houses,'  and  by  exten- 
sion, a  villa  or  country  mansion.  Raja 
is  situated  on  the  slopes  of  a  hilL 
Cardinal  Despuig,  an  ancestor  of  the 
Count,  purchased  at  Ariccia,  near  Al- 
bano,  some  lands  where  unsuccessful 


excavations  had  been  carried  on  for 
years,  and  at  the  cost  of  a  whole  fortune, 
by  Mr.  Gavin  Hamilton,  a  well-known 
Scotch  antiquary.  The  Cardinal  was, 
however,  more  fortunate,  and  was  able 
to  collect  several  important  antiquities, 
which,  together  with  many  more  he 
purchased  in  Rome,  were  brought  here 
and  tastefully  arranged.  The  best 
statues  are  placed  in  the  hall  (el  Peris- 
tilo).  Observe  more  particularly — 1. 
St.  of  Esculapius,  said  to  be  anterior  to 
Roman  Empire.  2.  Caligula.  3.  A 
bust  larger  than  life,  said  to  be  that  of 
Diogenes,  discovered  near  the  Appian 
Way,  and  excellent.  4.  A  colossal 
Emperor  Nerva.  7.  A  Roman  Gladia- 
tor, full  of  vigour  and  spirit  There 
are  besides  several  Roman  inscriptions, 
etc.  In  the  Salon  Principal. — Portrait 
of  Cardinal  Despuig.  6.  A  Cupid, 
supposed  to  be  a  copy  of  the  bronze  by 
Lysippus.  11.  A  pretty  bronze  deer — 
probably  Greek  work.  16.  A  curious 
statue,  probably  that  of  Apollo  Saurec- 
ton  or  Lizard-killer.  18.  Silene.  20. 
Very  fine  group  of  Hippolytus  engaged 
in  the  chase.  22.  A  magnificent  head 
of  Csesar  Augustus,  considered  the  gem 
of  the  whole  collection.  23.  Apollo, 
in  paros  marble,  by  the  sculptor  of  the 
Apollo  Belvidere— discovered  near  the 
Appian  Way.  33.  An  excellent  Bac- 
chus 'ever  fair  and  ever  young.'  36. 
Alcibiades,  one  of  the  best  here. 
Several  interesting  relievi,  etc. 

Gabinete.  —  Small  bronzes,  statues, 
urns,  and  a  complete  collection  of  bronze 
idols.  In  the  chapel  some  paintings 
of  no  great  value.  The  grounds  around 
are  well  laid  out  and  planted  with  aloes, 
cactus,  palms,  etc.  The  views  from  the 
Mirador  are  grand  and  extensive. 

There  are,  besides,  two  other  alque- 
rias  ;  that  of  Alfavia,  close  to  Bunola, 
8  miles  from  Palma,  with  vestiges  of 
the  former  Moorish  villa  ;  and  that  of 
Esporlas    once   the    property  of  Sr. 


PALMA    AND   BALEARIC  ISLANDS. 


353 


Fortuity,  and  a  favourite  summer  resort 
with  Palmerans,  some  pretty  gardens, 
water,  fruit-trees.  Close  by  the  bo- 
tanist may  visit  the  Botanic  Garden  of 
Coll  d'en  Portell. 

To  Soller.     Pop.  8547  ;  of  district, 
1 2, 053.     N.  E.  of  Mallorca. 

Inns. — Fonda  de  la  Paz;  Fonda 
Pastor :  both  fair.  Distance,  3| 
Spanish  leagues  (about  16  English  m.). 
Daily  diligence,  leaving  Palma  at  2 
P.M.,  arrives  3J  at  Bunola,  and  at  4£ 
at  Soller.  A  berlina  seat,  7r. ;  interior, 
5r.  ;  a  banquette,  4r.  An  excellent 
road.     The  country  beautiful. 

JSoller,  one  of  the  lions  of  Mallorca, 
is  most  picturesquely  situated,  nestled 
under  the  shelter  of  some  high  hills, 
amid  orange -groves,  imparting  sweet- 
ness to  the  air  and  rich  colouring  to 
the  plains.  The  vale  of  Soller  is  the 
district  of  Mallorca  the  most  famed  for 
beauty  and  fertility.  It  is  some  12 
miles  in  extent,  and  basin-shaped,  with 
an  opening  to  the  N.W.,  through 
which  a  thin  sheet  of  water  flows  into 
the  Mediterranean.  But  besides  the 
scenery,  which  is  grand  and  beautiful, 
there  is  little  here  to  attract  the  sight- 
seeing tourist.  The  parish  church  is 
indifferent,  with  a  statue  of  Saint  Bar- 
tholomew by  a  Neapolitan  sculptor. 
There  are  fossils  close  by,  at  Muleta 
and  Loire,  and  silver  and  copper  mines, 
which  are  being  actively  worked.  The 
walks  around  are  varied  and  beautiful. 
It  is  perhaps  grandest  at  '  El  Barranco,' 
a  wild  glen,  4-league  from  Soller,  and  at 
Gorch  Blau  and  its  blue  water  stream. 
Pvdg  Mayor  may  be  ascended  from  this 
aide,  by  taking  a  path  across  el  Lluch, 
whose  convent  may  be  seen  on  the  way. 
A  guide  is  necessary,  but  the  ascent  is 
an  easy  one,  and  the  view  from  the 
summit  repays  the  trouble  and  fatigue. 
The  great  holiday  here  takes  place  on 
11th  May,  a  great  gathering  of  pretty 
ntlotas  and  fadrinas  (peasant  girls). 

2 


To  Valldemosa. — An  easy  day's  ride  oi 
walk  from  Palma  ;  distance,  2§  leagues.  The 
town,  1700  inhab.,  is  quite  insignificant,  but 
the  scenery  around  is  most  striking.  As  one 
approaches,  the  road  becomes  narrower,  more 
winding  and  steep  ;  then  enters  a  small  valley, 
from  which  a  good  view  is  obtained  of  the  little 
town  rising  on  the  declivities  of  a  hill.  Half- 
way stands  the  old  Carthusian  convent,  amid 
an  Arab-Italian  landscape.  The  convent  itself 
is  not  interesting,  save  for  its  associations  with 
the  past  history  of  the  island.  The  old  church 
has  a  narrow  nave  and  Gothic  altar.  The  more 
modern  portion  is  of  the  classic  style,  cruciform, 
with  a  good  plain  choir.  There  are  some  pretty 
good  fresco  ceilings  by  a  Carthusian,  Fray  M. 
Bayeu.  The  convent  was  founded  1399  by 
King  Don  Martin,  on  the  site  of  his  castle,  and 
consecrated  May  8,  1446,  but  subsequently 
(1737)  enlarged.  Georges  Sand  resided  here 
for  some  time,  when  writing  'Spiridion.'  For 
the  neighbouring  Miramar,  see  p.  345.  This 
may  be  visited  (2^  hrs.  drive)  from  Palma,  but 
better  thus :  take  diligence  to  Soller,  where 
sleep,  returning  in  carriage  (1  horse,  10  pes.)  to 
Palma  viA  Miramar,  stopping  at  the  hospederia 
for  three  or  four  hours. 

To  Arid,  with  Las  Cuevas  {Fonda  Grande), 
dist.  85  kil.  Rail  from  Palma  to  Manacor,  64 
kil;  from  thence  drive  in  1 £  to  2  hrs.  The  country 
is  destitute  of  interest ;  the  villages  small  and 
insignificant.  (Manacor  is,  however,  the  largest 
town  in  Mallorca  next  to  the  capital.  Pop. 
about  15,000.  Fonda  de  Francisco  Femenias ; 
fair.  A  few  hours'  stay  should  be  made  here 
for  the  sake  of  visiting  the  'Cala  de  l'homo 
Mort,'  said  to  contain  human  fossils  incrustated 
in  the  rock.  Sineu,  in  the  vicinity,  too,  is  full 
of  fossils.  The  ground  is  rough — walking  hard. 
From  hence  to  Art4.) 

A  guide  is  required  to  visit  the  grottoes. 
The  entrance  is  strikingly  formed  by  an  arch- 
way, 140  ft.  high,  on  issuing  from  which,  a 
slippery  descent  takes  place,  and  upon  a  rocky 
eminence  a  white  statue  is  seen  standing  sentry 
over  the  subterraneous  palaces.  Lamps  are 
required.  The  chambers  in  these  are  at 
different  levels,  but  they  have  been  recently 
connected  by  stone  steps  or  wooden  staircases, 
and  there  is  nowhere  the  slightest  danger.  As 
one  advances  further  in,  the  stalactites  become 
more  numerous  and  beautiful. 

The  chambers  are  numerous,  with  distinctive 
names  according  to  their  character,  such  as  the 
'HaU  of  the  Virgin?  the  'Baptistry;  the 
'  Hall  of  the  Organ*  The  last  so  called  from 
the  curious  naturally-shaped  pipes,  which,  00 
being  struck  with  a  hammer,  sound  melodiously. 

A 


354 


PALMA   AND   BALEARIC   ISLANDS. 


In  the  neighbourhood  of  Arid  is  Bellpuig,  an 
early  convent. 

The  caves  at  Arta  do  not  altogether  bear  out 
their  reputation,  and  the  only  inn  of  the  place 
is  to  be  avoided.  The  tourist  may  see,  at 
ij  hour's  drive  from  Manacor,  the  Cueva  del 
Drach,  which,  on  a  smaller  scale,  is  equal  to 
the  Arta  cuevas.  The  landlord  of  the  inn  at 
Manacor  supplies  carriage  (7}  pes.)  and  food. 

Palma  to  Alcudia,  by  Benisalem  and  Em- 
palme,  whence  branch  line  to  La  Puebla.  Here 
diligences  meet  the  train  for  the  Port  of  Alcudia, 
where  travellers  may  embark  on  their  return  to 
Spain.     Weekly  steamers  to  Barcelona. 

Alcudia)  a  poor  inn.  Better  accommodation 
(Fonda  del  Chico)  at  Pollensa—AW.  from  La 
Puebla — which  is  situated  amidst  fine  scenery, 
and  from  whence  excursions  can  easily  be 
made  to  Sta.  Maria  del  Puig,  Castello  del 
Rey,  Alcudia,  etc.  The  latter  port  supplies 
fish  to  the  Barcelona  markets.  There  is  also  a 
small  coral  fishery. 

Island  of  Menorca. — The  second 
largest  and  most  eastern  island.  Pop. 
(1894)  39,114  ;  33  m.  in  length  by  13 
in  breadth,  and  24  miles  from  Mallorca. 
The  surface  is  not  quite  so  hilly  as  that 
of  Mallorca.  Monte  Toro  reaches  a 
height  of  4793  Eng.  ft,  crowned  by  a 
convent,  to  which  pilgrimages  are 
made.  There  are  some  minerals,  such 
as  iron,  lead,  copper ;  and  quarries  of 
marbles  and  alabaster.  Some  excellent 
game  in  winter,  consisting  of  wood- 
cocks, snipes,  teal;  several  kinds  of 
fish,  oysters,  and  lobsters.  The  scenery 
is  tamer,  and,  on  the  whole,  inferior  to 
that  of  Mallorca.  The  climate,  except, 
perhaps,  in  the  district  of  Mahon,  is 
generally  mild  ;  but  violent  storms 
from  N.  and  N.W.  sweep  over  the 
island,  which  is  not,  like  Mallorca, 
enclosed  on  all  sides  by  lofty  hills ; 
and  the  vegetation,  a  sure  guide,  not 
so  rich  and  varied.  In  dress,  appear- 
ance, and  the  rest,  Menorcans  differ  little 
from  the  inhabitants  of  Mallorca.  A 
somewhat  protracted  English  dominion 
has,  however,  left  traces ;  and  there  are 
habits  of  order,  cleanliness,  etc,  which 
are  not  so  observable  in  the  more  im- 
portant isle.     But,  except  for  the  mag- 


nificent harbour  of  Mahon  and  English 
associations,  there  is  little  here  to  invite 
a  voyage. 

It  was  in  1708  that  Earl  Stanhope, 
with  3000  British  troops,  attacked 
Mahon,  and  by  shooting  arrows  into  the 
town,  to  which  were  affixed  threatening 
slips  of  paper — threats  supported  by 
deeds,  not  words  only — obtained  the 
surrender  of  the  island.  The  English 
retained  possession  till  1756,  when  it 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  French  through 
the  failure  of  Admiral  Byng  to  relieve 
the  island.  Twice  more  it  became  an 
English  possession,  and  in  1782  there 
was  even  a  project  of  ceding  Menorca 
to  Russia  (Cox's  'Mem.  Kings  of  Spain,' 
voL  v.  p.  99).  The  most  important 
siege  Mahon  ever  sustained  was  that  of 
Aug.  1782,  when  it  was  heroically  de- 
fended by  the  English,  under  the  gallant, 
high-minded  General  Murray,  and  vigo- 
rously attacked  by  the  combined  forces 
of  France  and  Spain,  under  the  Duke 
of  Crillon.  Ciudadela  and  Fornella; 
the  arsenal  and  naval  stores  of  Mahon 
itself,  were  seized,  and  the  British 
governor  compelled  to  withdraw  to 
Fort  St.  Philip ;  that  sudden  success 
being  secured  by  previous  intrigues  with 
the  islanders,  and  the  sudden  landing 
of  overwhelming  forces.  To  avoid  a 
tedious  siege,  Crillon  was  ordered  to 
tempt  the  fidelity  of  General  Murray 
with  the  offer  of  £100,000.  'When 
your  brave  ancestor,'  replied  General 
Murray,  '  was  desired  by  his  Sovereign 
to  assassinate  the  Duke  of  Guise,  he 
returned  the  answer  which  you  should 
have  returned  when  the  King  of  Spain 
charged  you  to  assassinate  the  character 
of  a  man  whose  birth  is  as  illustrious 
as  your  own,  or  that  of  the  Duke  of 
Guise.'  After  a  protracted  defence,  the 
magazines  and  hospitals  were  fired,  and 
the  English  offered  a  capitulation.  It 
was  finally  ceded  to  Spain,  1802,  by  the 
treaty  of  Amiens. 


_j 


RALMA  AND  BALEARIC  ISLANDS. 


355 


Mahon.— Pop.  15,588.  A  bishop's 
see  and  naval  comandancia.  Communi- 
cation with  Barcelona  by  steamer,  and 
Palma,  touching  at  Alcudia. 

Inns.  —  Hotel  Bustamante  ;  Fonda 
Central ;  Casa  de  Huespedes. 

British  V.-Consul. — B.  Escudero,  Esq. 

Visit  the  Talayots  (stone  tables)  and 
other  prehistoric  moD  umen  ts.  The  prin- 
cipal are  — Trepuc6,  Talato"  de  Dalt, 
Cornia,  and  Torell6  (Mahon) ;  Torre  de 
Gaumas  and  Toralld  (Alayor) ;  Son 
Carld,  Son  Saura,  etc.  (Ciudadela). 

The  city  was  founded  by  the  Cartha- 
ginian Magon,  702  b.c.  During  the  95 
years  it  was  in  the  possession  of  Eng- 
land it  became  a  prosperous  place  ;  but 
since  the  peace  of  Amiens,  when  it  went 
back  to  Spain,  its  trade  and  importance 
have  alike  disappeared.  The  city  lies 
picturesquely  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep 
and  narrow  bay  some  34  miles  in  length, 
and  rises  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  port 
and  harbour.  All  is  silence,  decay,  and 
backwardness.  The  streets  are  ill  paved, 
but  clean  comparatively  to  those  of 
Palina,  and  free  from  evil  smells.  The 
terraced  houses  are,  many  of  them,  unin- 
habited, though  tastefully  built ;  others 
are  constructed  on  the  English  model 
—most  unsuited  to  this  climate. 

The  port  is  one  of  the  best  in  Europe, 
secure  and  capable  of  affording  shelter 
to  the  largest  fleet  of  line-of-battle 
ships.  It  deserves  Andrea  Doria's  say- 
ing that  '  the  best  Mediterranean  ports 
are,  June,  July,  August,  and  Port  Ma- 
hon.' "Within  the  harbour  are  four 
rocky  islets,  on  one  of  which  a  military 
hospital  is  built ;  on  another,  a  special 
establishment  for  quarantine,  etc.  The 
arsenal,  naval  storehouses,  and  forts 
were  mostly  English  works.  There  is  an 
indifferent  church ;  a  pretty  Alameda. 

Environs. — The  principal  environ  is 
Ciudadela.  A  dil.  leaves  daily  at  1 1  A.M., 
stopping  on  the  way  at  Alayor,  Merca- 
dal,  and  Ferrerias;  distance,  about  27 


English  miles.  The  whole  island  is 
crossed  in  all  its  length  ;  the  road  is 
good  and  the  work  of  General  Kane, 
1713,  to  whose  memory  the  Menorcans, 
fully  alive  to  the  advantages  of  English 
rule,  have  raised  a  monument  recording 
the  fact.  The  scenery  is  not  interest- 
ing. Alayor,  5600  inhab.,  is  a  poor 
decayed  city  with  a  good  climate  ;  there 
are  some  early  pictures  in  its  parish 
church.  Mercadaly  2620  inhab.,  a  dirty, 
waterless,  unwholesome  city.  In  the 
vicinity  is  the  hill  Del  Toro,  and  the 
much-reverenced  Monasterio  de  Santa 
Agueda,  and  now  through  an  ill-culti- 
vated, flat  country,  and  desolate  Ferre- 
rios,  we  reach  Ciudadela^  8340  inhab. 
This  former  capital  of  Menorca  lies  on 
its  W.  coast  (see  its  cathedral  and 
Talayots),  and  possesses  a  good  port, 
though  small  and  somewhat  shallow, 
at  whose  extremity,  on  the  right, 
stands  Fort  San  Nicolas.  Not  far  from 
the  latter,  in  the  midst  of  some  huge 
rocky  masses,  are  two  caverns  in  which 
the  sea  is  engulphed.  The  noise  pro- 
duced has  been  likened  to  the  blow  of 
a  forge,  whence  its  local  popular  appel- 
lation '  El  Fuelle  del  Diable, '  the  Devil's 
Blow.  About  2  miles  S.  is  La  Grata 
de  Perella,  a  curious  grotto  with  stalac- 
tites. The  Gothic  cathedral  has  one 
lofty  broad  nave,  and  dates  1360.  It 
is  flanked  by  a  fine  square  tower  with 
an  octagon  steeple,  and  deserves  to  be 
better  known.  There  are  besides  seve- 
ral convent  churches,  barracks,  etc.,  of 
no  interest. 

ISLAND  OF  YVIZA. 

Population^  25,000.  Capital,  Yviza — 
the  largest  of  the  Pithy  usae ;  distant 
42  miles  S.W.  from  Mallorca,  It  is 
about  27  miles  long  from  N.E.  to  S.W., 
and  15  miles  in  its  greatest  breadth 
The  soil  is  generally  hilly  and  stony  ; 
the  hills  are  covered  with  timber  trees, 


356 


SALAMANCA. 


and  their  summits  crowned  by  watch-  I 
towers.  There  is  some  brisk  trade  in 
salt,  which  is  excellent  The  islanders 
wear  a  red  woollen  cap,  and  the  '  Spar- 
tilles'  shoes.  This  island  was  the 
Roman  Eburus  and  Moorish  Jevitzah. 
It  is  now  thinly  peopled,  poorly  culti- 
vated, and  divided  into  four  'cuar- 
tones'  or  quarters: — 1.  The  city  and 
its  vicinity ;  2.  Balanzar ;  3.  Pormany ; 
4.  Las  Salinas,  or  Salt-Pans. 

Yviza— Pop.  7651 — The  capital  and 
only  city  of  any  importance,  is  built 
on  a  rocky,  rugged  hill.  The  port  is 
pretty  good  and  sheltered  ;  the  streets 
are  steep  and  ill  paved ;  and  the 
churches,  mostly  erected  in  the  18  th 
century,  devoid  of  all  interest  There 
is,  however,  a  cathedral  of  some  import- 
ance, two  hospitals,  etc  There  are  no 
roads,  save  that  from  the  Salt-pans  to 
the  port  The  islets  around,  little 
more  than  masses  of  rocks,  are  almost 
exclusively  abandoned  to  wild  goats 
and  rabbits,  the  latter  peopling  Rabbit 
Island,  La  Conejera. 

Island  of  Formentera. — Pop.  1620 
inhabitants.  6  miles  S.  of  Yviza.  13 
miles  long  W.  to  £.,  and  10  broad. 
The  houses  are  scattered  in  the  country 
and   upon  the  coast     It  derives  its 


name,  Forment,  French  Froment  (Fro* 

mention),  from  the  great  quantity  of 

corn  which,    considering    its  size,  it 

produces.     A  few  wild  goats  and  sheep 

roam  about,  and  on  its  shore  are  seen 

numerous  flamants. 

Books  of  Reference. — i.  Miguel  de  Vargas, 
'  Descripciones  de  les  Islas  Piliusas  y  Balearic*. ' 
Madrid,  1787. 

2.  S.  B.  Laurent's  '  Souvenirs  d'un  Voyage 
d'Art.    a  1'IIe  de  Majorque.' 

3.  Dameto's  '  History  of  Mallorca.' 

4.  St  Sauveur's  '  French  Travels  through 
the  Balearic  and  Pyth.  Islands.' 

5.  G.  Sands'  agreeable,  charmingly-written, 
but  prejudiced  '  Un  Hiver  a  Majorque. 

6.  Mr.  Dodd's  unpretending  and  interesting 
account,  '  Three  Weeks  in  Majorca.1  London: 
Chapman  and  Hall,  1863. 

7.  '  Mallorca/  by  Piferrer,  in  Recuerdos  y 
Bellezas  de  Espaila.     Excellent 

8.  '  Noticias,  Historico-Topografic.'  of  Sr. 
Bover.     Palma,  1864. 

9.  '  Letters  from  Majorca  *  (Wood). 

zo.  '  Notes  sur  un  Voyage  Botanique  dans 
les  lies  Balearic,'  by  E.  Burnat  and  W.  Barbey. 
Geneva,  1882. 

For  the  geology  of  the  islands  see  : — 
Eli  de  Beaumont,  'Descripcion  de  l'lle  de 
Majorque,'  in  the  Ann.  des  Sc.  Natur.,  vol  x. 
p.  423  ;  Delia  Marmora's  '  Geological  Remark! 
on  the  Belearic  Islands,'  Mem  of  Acad,  of 
Turin,  vol.  xxxviii.  p.  55 ;  and  Pablo  Boury'c 
'  Resena  Geognostica  de  la  Isla  de  Mallorca, 
published  in  the  Revista  Minera,  voL  iii.  p. 
174— one  of  the  best  papers  on  the  subject. 


SALAMANCA  (LEON). 


Capital  of  the  province  of  the  same 
name.    It  is  a  Bishop's  see ;  pop.  about 

20,000. 

Routes  and  Conveyances. — From 
Madrid.  By  Northern  Railway  as 
far  as  Medina  del  Campo ;  200  kil.  ; 
2  trains  per  day,  in  6  hrs.  Good 
sleeping  and  feeding  arrangements 
at  Medina  station  restaurant,  if 
desired. 

From  Lisbon,  vid  Figueira  da  Foz, 


Pampilhosa  and  Guarda,  one  train 
daily  in  25  hrs. 

From  Oporto,  vid  Barca  de  Alba, 
one  train  daily  in  14  hrs. 

From  Astorga,  Zairwra,  Valladolid, 
Plasencia,  etc.     See  time  tables. 

Medina  to  Salamanca,  77  kiL  ;  2) 
hours. 

(For  Medina,  see  Madrid.)  At  £1 
Carpio,  a  small  village  about  14  miles 
from  Medina,  are  the  ruins  of  a  church 


SALAMANCA. 


357 


>t  which  served  as  the  family 

the  celebrated  Condes  del 

hose  dilapidated  palace  still 

There  is  here  also  an  old 

tower,  standing  amid  ruins, 

*lf.     The  country  is  flat  and 

d  in  June  and  July  resembles 

of  golden  waving  corn.     At 

ledra,   pine -woods  and  oaks 

)e  ;  and  close  to  the  gorge  runs 

let  of  La  Guarena.     Between 

"Salamanca  the  soil  is  parched 

the  wretched  thirsty  peasants 

*  supply  of  water  save  from 

scanty  and  ague-feeders  in 

r 

^ie  riding  tour  be  desired  the 
pdabout  road  may  be  taken 
ksencia,  vid  Ciudad  Rodrigo, 
pes : — 
f. — In  two  long  days  to  C.  Rodrigo 

Leagues. 
7 

3 

5 
i 

3 


iia  . 
tgunilla 
ferguijuela   . 
atuecas 
Jberca  . 

lo  r 

lebron     ) 

tidad  Rodrigo 

iti  Spiritus 

tin  del  Rio     . 
>veda  del  Castro 

ida. 
lzadilla 
damanca 


3 
3 

3 

4 

3 

a 

3 

f  4« 

je  ride  from  Plasencia  is  wild,  but 

^interest  the  antiquary  and  artist 

[can  rough  it.     The  roads  are  mere 

los  de  Perdices,  but  safe.    Take  a 

guide  and  provender.     Sleep  first  j 

at  Granadilla,  5  leagues;  the  next 

ivent  de  las  Batuecas.     There  is 

good    trout-fishing,    and   game 

[nds.    The  principal  object  of  this 

'is  to  visit  the  very  wild  and  almost 

known  district  of  Las  Batuecas,  a 

fley  about  3  m.  long  by  2  wide,  girdled 

'  mountains,  and  inhabited  by  semi- 

jvage  Boeotians.      It  is  characterised 


by  great  wildness,  deep  gorges,  rocks 
covered  with  lichens,  ivy,  where  the 
jarra,  the  cork-tree,  the  heather,  and 
oak  grow  with  great  luxuriance.  Visit 
the  lofty  hill  of  '  La  Pefia  de  Francia* 
and  its  chapel  or  Santuario,  whose 
miraculous  image  of  the  Virgin  is 
visited  by  thousands  on  September  8th ; 
the  ruins  of  the  Carmelite  convent,  and 
the  enormous  cork-trees  and  cypresses 
growing  around  that  solitude. 

Ciudad  Rodrigo :  No  good  hotel ; 
rail.  rest.  (Prov.  Salamanca).  On  the 
Agueda,  and  but  a  few  miles  from 
the  Portuguese  frontier,  this  city  was 
founded  by  Count  Rodrigo  Gonzealez 
Giron,  in  1150.  The  indifferent  cathe- 
dral dates  end  of  12th  century,  and  was 
enlarged  in  1538  by  Cardinal  Tavera, 
Archbishop  of  Toledo.  Observe,  how- 
ever, the  Tedesque  silleria  by  Rodrigo 
Aleman.  Ciudad  Rodrigo  is  celebrated 
only  for  the  sieges  during  the  Penin- 
sular "War  ;  the  first  siege  took  place  in 
the  spring  of  1810,  when  Massena  and 
Ney  attacked  and  endeavoured  to 
assault  the  town  while  gallantly  do- 
fended  by  the  Spanish  General  Herrasti, 
who  was  at  length  obliged  to  surrender, 
July  10.  The  second  siege  was  entirely 
conducted  by  the  Duke  of  Wellington, 
January  1812.  The  operations  were 
carried  out  with  the  most  extraordinary 
activity,  boldness,  and  discipline.  The 
fortified  Teson  to  the  N.  was  taken  in 
some  hours  ;  and  the  proposed  recon- 
naissance confided  to  General  Graham 
being  turned  into  a  real  attack,  batteries 
could  be  established  without  loss  of 
time,  and  on  the  19th  two  breaches  to 
N.  E.  were  carried  by  Picton  and  Craw- 
furd.  The  troops  committed  great  ex- 
cesses, and,  becoming  intoxicated,  threw 
off  all  discipline,  fired  the  town  in  three 
or  four  places,  and  a  general  con- 
flagration had  actually  begun,  but  was 
stopped  by  the  energy  of  some  officers. 
The  allies  lost  1200  men  and  90  officers, 


358 


SALAMANCA. 


and  the  French  300  and  1500  prisoners. 
Lord  Wellington  was,  in  consequence 
of  this  exploit,  created  Duke  of  Ciudad 
Rodrigo  by  the  Spaniards,  an  Earl  by 
the  English,  and  Marquis  of  Torres 
Vedras  by  the  Portuguese. 

The  military  tourist  may  make  an  interesting 
circular  tour  to  El  Bodon,  a  leagues,  and  Fuente 
Guinaldo,  a  more ;  and  visit  the  site  where  the 
French  cavalry  under  Montbrun  was  so  gal- 
lantly repulsed  by  the  5th  and  77th,  who  had 
formed  in  squares;  and  farther  on,  ride  to 
Fuentes  Ofioro  by  Alfayates,  Pega,  and  to 
Guarda,  where,  March  39,  x8zz,  General  Picton 


compelled  ao,ooo  men  under  Massena  to  retire, 
abandoning  the  heights.  At  Almeida  stands 
a  picturesque  castle,  which  the  Duke  took 
after  his  victory  at  Ofioro.  Proceeding  on- 
wards by  Froneda,  to  Villaformosa,  we  finally 
reach  the  village  of  Fuentes  de  Ofioro,  where 
the  Duke  so  signally  defeated  Massena.  It  is 
famed  in  British  military  annals  for  the  heroic 
charge  of  the  71st  and  79th  Highlanders,  who 
rushed  on  the  enemy,  raising  the  war-cry  of  the 
Camerons.  The  French  lost  5000,  and  the 
English  2000. 

From  being  completely  isolated,  Salamanca 
has  become  a  great  railroad  centre,  no  less  than 
five  lines  converging  here, — to  Portugal,  to 
N.W.  Spain,  to  Madrid,  Avila  and  Valladolid. 


SALAMANCA. 


Hotels. — Fonda  del  Comercio,  the 
best ;  La  Burgalesa.  Cafi. — El  Suizo, 
Calle  de  Zamora. 

Casino. — Over  cafi. 

Theatres.  —  El  Liceo  is  the  best ;  El 
Hospital. 

Post  Office. — In  the  Plaza  Mayor. 

Promenades. — The  Alameda  and  the 
Glorieta. 

N.B.—  Visit  the  Plateros,  silver- 
smiths' shops.  The  local  jewellery  is 
curious,  and  the  prices  moderate. 

General  Description. — This  uni- 
versity town,  '  Alma  mater  de  virtudes, 
ciencias  y  artes, '  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Tormes.  The  streets  are 
full  of  character,  especially  the  Rua,  with 
its  booksellers  and  silversmiths,  and  the 
handsome  Calle  de  Zamora,  which  leads 
to  the  spacious  Plaza  Mayor,  a  noble 
square  surrounded  by  90  arcades,  and 
on  whose  tympani  are  sculptured  busts 
of  kings  and  Spanish  heroes.  This  plaza 
was  begun  in  1720,  and  finished  1735. 
Bull-fights  sometimes  take  place  here, 
when  it  holds  some  20,000  spectators, 
and  presents  a  sight  truly  worthy  of 
this  self-named  '  Roma  pequena,'  or  the 
Lesser  Rome.  It  is,  on  the  whole,  an 
out-of-the-way,  backward,  and  benight- 
ed place,  nevertheless  the  number  and 


magnificence  of  its  buildings  make  it 
well  worth  the  tourist's  while  to  leave 
the  common  track,  and  pay  it  a  short 
visit 

Sights. — Cathedral  (old  and  new), 
Arzobispo,  Colegio  Viejo,  Convent  of 
Santo  Domingo,  Jesuits'  College,  College 
of  Calatrava,  and  University. 

QTfc  Catipttrol  dates  from  the  begin- 
ning of  the  16th  century  (begun  1513) 
and  is  a  good  example  of  florid  Gothic 
mixed  with  the  then  budding  Renais- 
sance. The  architect  was  Juan  Gil  de 
Hontafion.  It  is  195  ft.  long  by  198 
ft.  wide.  The  portal  forms  three  en- 
trances ;  that  of  the  centre  is  divided  by 
a  pillar  bearing  an  effigy  of  the  Virgin, 
and  placed  below  two  bassi-relievi  re- 
presenting the  Nativity  and  Adoration. 
The  two  remaining  i Tigresses  are  equally 
decorated,  the  one  called  de  las  Palmas 
having  a  good  mezzo-relievo  represent- 
ing the  entrance  to  Jerusalem.  The 
tower  over  the  portal  is  the  work  of 
Churriguera,  but  not  as  extravagant  as 
most  of  his  works. 

The  interior  is  divided  into  t  ree 
aisles,  the  central  being  the  high* 
The  lateral  aisles  are  filled  with  chape 
railed  off.     Observe  the  elaborately  d   5 
corated  Gothic  roof,  the  double  ft   1 
naissance  gallery  in  front  of  the  window- 


1 


SALAMANCA. 


359 


and  the  busts  projecting  from  gold 
circular  frames.  The  stalls  in  the  choir 
are  churrigueresque.  Notice,  never- 
theless, here  the  two  finely  modelled 
statues  to  St.  John  and  Sta.  Ana, 
ascribed  to  Juan  de  Juni.  Visit  the 
Chapels,  Dorada,  del  Presidente  (where 
there  are  two  heads  of  the  Saviour, 
and  other  pictures  by  Morales),  La 
Pieza,  or  vestry.  See  in  the  oratorio  a 
fine  custodia  ;  also  the  historical  Cruci- 
fijo  de  las  Batallas,  which  the  Cid 
always  carried  before  him  in  fight.  It 
is  perfectly  authentic,  though  of  no 
artistical  merit.  In  the  Ca.  de  San  An- 
tonio are  someZurbarans — Beheading  of 
St.  John,  a  Crucifixion,  etc. ;  and  in  an 
adjoining  chapel  a  fine  San  Geronimo 
doing  penance,  by  Gaspar  Becerra. 

The  old,  12th  century,  cathedral,  to 
which  access  is  gained  by  steps  leading 
from  the  S.  aisle  of  the  Catcdral  JVueva, 
is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  By- 
zantine in  Spain.  It  was  built  by 
Bishop  Geronimo,  the  Cid's  confessor, 
and  a  native  of  Perigord.  Notice  the 
caps,  of  the  columns,  the  cleverly  con- 
structed and  beautiful  dome  over  the 
crossing,  the  unique  and  satisfactory 
Eetablo,  the  old  organ,  close  by,  with 
carved  and  gilded  front  representing 
the  Assumption,  and  the  tombs  in  the 
S.  transept.  Visit  the  cloisters,  with 
all  their  interesting  chapels.  The  first, 
on  the  left  of  the  entrance-door,  is  the 
capilla  de  Tala-vera,  founded  1510  by 
Rodrigo  Arias  Maldonado.  Observe  the 
curious  roof.  Here  the  Muzarabic  ritual 
(see  Toledo)  is  performed  six  times  a 
year.  Next  comes  the  chapel  of  S. 
Barbara,  founded  by  Bishop  Juan 
Lucero,  1344.  See  his  tomb,  and  the 
old  seats  used  when  the  University 
Convocation  used  to  be  held  here — up 
to  1842.  In  the  adjoining  Sala  Capitular 
are  some  fine  old  benches,  with  the 
kai  Cathedral  arms  worked  upon  them  in 
*£■    *RY6T  filigree.     In  the  Antesala  see 

SB 


curious  sillas  used  in  the  ancient  coun- 
cils. Visit  next  the  fine  Gothic  Sala  de 
Concilios  y  Canto ;  and,  lastly,  the 
chapel  of  San  Bartolome\  founded  1374 
by  Diego  de  Anaya,  Archbishop  of 
Seville,  whose  huge  tomb  occupies  the 
floor  in  front  of  the  high  altar.  Look 
carefully  at  the  exquisite  tomb  of  Con- 
stanza  de  Anaya  (sister  of  the  founder) 
and  her  husband  Gutierrez  de  Monray. 
The  recumbent  figures  are  full  of  art. 

The  CoUgio  Viejo,  opposite  the  new 
cathedral,  was  founded  in  1410,  but 
rebuilt  by  Hermosilla  1760.  The  patio 
has  two  galleries,  Ionic  and  Doric.  Ob- 
serve the  great  staircase,  and  ask  to  see 
some  paintings  by  Gallegos,  in  the 
church. 

San  Esteban  or  San  Domingo,  Here 
Columbus  lived  1484-86,  sheltered  by 
the  enlightened  Deza,  who  espoused 
his  cause  when  the  learned  world  called 
his  schemes  visionary.  The  cruciform 
church,  of  impressive  proportions,  has 
a  most  remarkable  portal,  richly  orna- 
mented with  statues  and  scroll-work, 
and  the  cloisters  contain  good  sculpture, 
medallions,  busts,  and  bassi-relievi. 
Observe  the  principal  staircase,  the 
library,  and  sacristy. 

University.— This,  one  of  the  earliest 
in  Europe  (of  14th  century),  was  founded 
by  Alfonso,  the  ninth  king  of  Leon, 
and  was  the  subject  of  grants  and  privi- 
leges, successively  claimed  from,  and 
offered  by,  Ferdinand  III.  and  Alfonso 
X.  It  ranked  immediately  after  that 
of  Paris,  and  before  Oxford  and  Bolo- 
gna ;  its  students  numbered  10,000,  and 
upwards.  From  all  parts  of  the  world 
they  flocked  hither;  and  its  catedras 
had  a  world  -  wide  reputation.  Its 
students  became  great  professors,  and 
taught  in  foreign  universities.  Strange 
to  say,  here,  where  the  system  of  Co- 
pernicus, then  held  everywhere  as 
heretical,  was  expounded,  was  the  very 
place  where  Columbus  met  with  the 


L 


360 


SALAMANCA. 


greatest  opposition,  even  derision  and 
scorn,  when  he  was  sent  before  a  council 
of  catedraticos  to  Valcuervo,  2  leagues 
off,  as  being  more  secluded  and  quieter 
than  the  university  halls.  The  uni- 
versity has  now  dwindled  into  an  ordi- 
nary college,  though  it  preserves  its 
former  titles,  distinctions,  and  pompous 
names.  The  rector's  salary  is  26,000r. 
a  year,  and  the  professors  get  only 
12,000r.  (about  £120).  The  university 
is  divided  into  the  Escuelas  Mayores 
and  Escuelas  Menores.  The  grand  en- 
trance and  facade  date  from  time  and 
style  of  the  Catholic  kings,  whose  arms 
and  escutcheon  are  seen  over  the  portal. 
It  is  a  masterpiece  of  the  transition 
Gotho-plateresque.  Observe  the  infinite 
details,  busts,  medallions,  all  executed 
with  great  nicety.  The  inscription 
runs  —  ol  paaiKeTs  r$  iyKvicXoratdelQ, 
atirq  rots  pa<riXev<ri.  En  route  for  the 
library  (80,000  vols,  and  many  rare 
MSS.)  notice  the  splendid  Renaissance 
staircase  and  portal  In  the  neigh- 
bouring chapel  are  the  ashes  of  the 
famous  Fray  Luis  de  Leon,  some  gor- 
geous but  noteworthy  furniture,  and 
an  authentic  letter  of  St.  Ferdinand, 
dated  Ap.  7,  1280.  Visit,  below, 
the  old  class-rooms  opening  out  of  the 
patio. 

Convent  of  Las  AgusUnas  Recoletas. — 
Founded  by  Manuel  de  Zuniga,  Conde  de 
Monterey,  in  1626,  a  frivado  of  Philip  IV.'s. 
It  is  a  magnificent  edifice,  built  by  the  architect 
Fontana,  in  the  classical  style.  Observe  more 
especially  the  Florentine  pulpit,  said  to  be  the 
very  one  in  which  St.  Vicente  Ferrer  preached ; 
the  Corinthian  retablo,  with  lapis  lazuli;  the 
tombs,  by  Algardi,  of  the  founder  and  his  wife ; 
the  pictures  of  'San  Januario'  ascribed  to 
Veronese ;  an  Annunciation,  by  Lanfranco ;  a 
Nativity,  by  Ribera ;  St.  John,  by  Guido ;  San 
Nicholas,  by  Ribera ;  Virgen  del  Rosario,  by 
Ribera ;  and  the  magnificent  Concepcion  on  the 
altar,  by  Ribera,  signed  and  dated  1635 ;  most 
of  those  in  this  convent  have  been  lately  removed 
to  the  provincial  museum.  Notice,  opposite, 
the  dismantled  palace  of  Monterey,  with  its 
two  turrets. 


The  Arzobisfo,  or  Colegio  Mayor  de  Santiagr 
{del  Arxobisfo  after  the  founder,  Fonseca),  is 
now  the  Colegio  de  los  Irlandeses.  The  archi- 
tect was  Pedro  de  Ibarra.  The  style  is  pure 
plateresque.  Observe  the  fine  patio,  die  retablo, 
in  the  chapel,  by  Berruguete  1529,  and  some 
vestments.  Near  this  college,  at  San  Bias, 
notice  the  devastation  caused  by  the  French  in 
the  Peninsular  War. 

The  Jesuitas  ('La  Clericia*)  dates  from 
16x4,  and  was  built  by  Juan  Gomez  de  Mora. 
1 1  is  huge,  but  poor  and  in  bad  condition.  Now 
a  clerical  seminary.  There  are  a  few  fair  paint- 
ings— one  or  two  of  Rubens' — in  the  sacristy  of 
the  chapel. 

Travellers  may  also  visit  the  Nunnery  of 
Sto.  Espiritu,  for  its  magnificent  roof  and  portal, 
by  Berruguete ;  Church  of  Carmelitas  Descalzas, 
for  its  classical  style,  by  Juan  de  Herrera; 
Colegio  de  Guadalupe,  for  its  decorations ;  the 
Santo  Tome"  de  los  Caballeros,  for  its  tower  of 
the  1 2  th  century,  and  its  early  sepulchres ;  the 
Colegio  de  la  Vera  Cruz,  etc. 

Private  Houses, — They  are  very  curious,  and 
well  worth  visiting  and  sketching.  Observe 
especially,  Casa  de  Maldonado,  opposite  La 
Trinidad;  Casa  de  las  Conchas,  near  the 
Jesuits,  and  its  patio ;  Casa  Salinas ;  Casa  del 
Arzobispo  Fonseca,  in  Calle  de  las  Muertos. 
The  Duke  of  Wellington  lodged  in  the  house 
of  Marquis  de  Almarza,  in  the  Plazo  de  San 
Bool.  Observe  also  two  very  ancient  mansions 
in  Plaza  de  Santo  Tome",  one  Moorish-like,  and 
the  other  plateresque. 

Minor  Sights— Torre  de  Clavel,  a  first- 
rate  example  of  the  mediaeval  Castilian  keep. 
Puerta  de  San  Pablo,  with  statues  of  saints, 
and  the  Pope  and  St  Peter  in  the  centre ;  the 
Roman  bridge  and  remains  of  walls,  etc  The 
Puerta  del  Rio  is  also  curious. 


The  celebrated  battle  of  Salamanca, 
between  the  Duke  of  Wellington  and 
Marmont,  was  fought  July  22,  1812. 
The  allies  mustered  60,000,  of  whom 
only  half  were  British,  the  rest 
Spaniards,  and  the  French  numbered 
upwards  of  100,000  men.  The  battle 
was  concluded  in  45  minutes,  and  re- 
sulted in  the  routing  of  the  whole  French 
army.  Marmont  was  wounded,  the 
enemy  disorganised,  and,  as  the  Duke 
asserted,    'If  we   had   had  an  hour 


SANTANDER. 


361 


more  daylight,  the  whole  army  would 
have  been  in  our  hands.'  The  Duke 
was  the  hero  of  the  day,  'and  was  seen 
at  every  point  precisely  where  his 
presence  was  most  required.  'I  saw 
him/  writes  Napier,  '  late  in  the  even- 
ing of  that  great  day,  when  the  advanc- 
ing flashes  of  cannon  and  musketry, 
stretching  as  far  as  the  eye  could  com- 
mand, showed  in  the  darkness  how 
well  the  field  was  won.  He  was  alone ; 
the  flush  of  victory  was  on  his  brow, 
and  his  eyes  were  eager  and  watchful ; 
but  his  voice  was  calm,  and  even  gentle. 
More  than  the  rival  of  Marlborough, 
since  he  had  defeated  greater  warriors, 
with  a  prescient  pride  he  seemed  only 
to  accept  this  glory  as  an  earnest  of 
greater  things.'  Thiers'  resume*  of  the 
battle  runs  thus  :  '  Cette  funeste  et  in- 
volontaire  bataille,  dite  de  Salamanque 
on  des  Arapiles,  eut  pour  Farmed 
Anglaise  des  consequences  fort  im- 
prevues,  car  elle  lui  procura  une  vic- 


toire  inesper^e  au  lieu  d'une  retraite 
inevitable,  et  commence  la  mine  de  noa 
affaires  d'Espagne.' 

Excursion  to  mineral  spring  of  Le 
desma,  24  kils.  Daily  dil.  in  3  hrs. 
during  the  season.  The  road  passes  by 
Villamayor,  Zorita  and  Valverdon.  A 
fair  Establecimiento.  Season  from  1st 
of  June  to  30th  Sep.  Baths,  sulphurous, 
of  50°.  Recommended  for  rheumatism, 
gout,  etc.  The  new  line  for  Portugal 
passes  by  Ledesma.  Good  shooting 
and  fishing  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Books  of  Reference.—*.  '  Reseila  hist,  de  la 
Univcrsidad,'  by  several  Professors  of  same. 
Salamanca :  Moran,  1849. 

a.  '  Hist  del  Colegio  Viejo  de  S.  BartolomeV 
etc.,  by  Roxas  y  Contreras.  Madrid :  Ortega, 
x  766-70.     3  vols.  foL 

3.  Ponz,  XII. ;  Florez,  '  Esp.  Sag.'  XII. ; 
'  Recuerdos  y  Bellezas  de  Espana.' 

4.  '  Salamanca  Artfstica  y  Monumental,' 
Falcon.  Also  '  Guia  de  Salamanca,'  by  same 
author. 

5.  'Hist,  del  Convento  de  San  Agustin  de 
Salamanca/  by  Hen-era :  Madrid. 


SANTANDER  (Asturias). 


Capital  of  province  of  same  name. 
Bishop's  see.  Trading  port.  Pop. 
45,000. 

Routes  and  Convey- 
ances.—From  Madrid: — 
Time,  about  16  hrs. :  dist. — 
Madrid  to  Venta  de  Banos  (on  the 
Madrid  to  Bay onne  line),  279  kil.  Venta 
to  Santander,  vid  Palencia,  230  kil. 
Only  two  trains  per  day.  Good  buffet  at 
Venta  de  Banos  ;  fair  at  Reinosa,  where 
halt  for  about  twenty  min.  For  Madrid 
to  Venta,  see  Madrid.  Palencia  the 
only  important  city  on  the  Santander 
line.    Scenery  generally  uninteresting. 

Palencia. — Inns :  Gran  Hotel  Conti- 
nental, Barrio  Nuevo,  very  good:  pens, 
from  8  pes.  Hotel  Samaria,  Vizcaina, 
fair,  Spanish.  Cafts,  Suizo ;  Siglo. 
Post  and  Telegraph  Office  in  the  Calle 


San  Francisco.  Pop.  14,603.  The 
ancient  Pallantia,  and  seat  of  the  first 
Spanish  university,  founded  in  the 
10th  century,  and  removed  to  Salamanca 
in  1239.  It  stands  upon  a  wind-swept 
plain,  on  the  banks  of  the  Carrion,  a 
small  stream  joining  the  Pisuerga  below, 
and  here  crossed  by  two  bridges.  The  city 
has  considerably  decayed  in  wealth  and 
trade,  but  there  are  signs  of  a  renewal 
of  prosperity.  The  prolongation  of  tho 
railway  to  Coruna  may  contribute  to 
this.  Its  woollens  are  excellent,  and 
the  mantas  de  Palencia  are  sold  all  over 
Spain,  and  even  exported  to  America. 
The  principal  sight  is  the 

Catfcf&ral,  which  is  of  elegant  Gothic, 

dates  1321,  but  was  not  completed  till 

t  1504.     It  was  dedicated  to  San  Auto- 


362 


SANTANDER. 


liii,  whose  miraculous  well-water  cures 
everything  save  superstition.  Observe 
the  elaborately-carved  silleria  del  coro ; 
its  tine  reja  and  pulpits,  the  rich  pla- 
teresque  respaldo  del  coro,  a  custodia 
of  end  of  16th  century,  by  Juan  Bena- 
vente,  cloister,  tower,  etc.  The  hospi- 
tal of  San  Lazaro  was  once  the  palace 
of  the  Cid,  and  where  he  was  married 
to  Jimena. 

On  leaving  Palencia,  the  rail  follows 
the  old  coach-road,  crossing  the  corn- 
growing  fertile  tierra  de  Campos  ;  but 
the  scenery  becomes  monotonous,  and 
the  soil  poorer,  as  one  approaches  the 
wretched  village  of  Monzon.  On 
leaving  it  the  Ucieza  is  crossed.  The 
heavy  lumbersome  church  of  Amusco 
has  caused  it  to  be  called  El  Pajaron, 
the  big  bird ;  not  the  eagle,  but  a  gi- 
gantic bat.  At  OsornOy  the  Abanades 
is  crossed  on  a  fine  bridge.  The  rail- 
road about  Espinosa  is  well  engineered, 
and  the  expenses  have  been  great. 

Herrera. — Towards  W.  of  city  there 
are  ruins  of  a  Moorish  castle  belonging 
to  and  neglected  by  the  Duke  of  Frias. 
The  Pisuerga  is  crossed. 

Alar  del  Bey. — Here  ends  the  canal 
of  Castile,  which  irrigates  part  of  the 
Tierra  de  Campos,  places  Valencia,  Rio- 
seco,  Valladolid,  etc.,  in  communication, 
and  serves  for  the  transport  of  corn  and 
flour. 

Mataporquera. — Here  the  new  railway 
from  La  Robla,  on  the  Leon-Oviedo  line 
to  Bilbao,  crosses  the  Santander  line. 

Reinosa. — 3000  inhab.  On  the  Ebro, 
which  rises  not  far  to  W.  at  the  foot  of 
the  Montaiias  de  Burgos,  also  called 
Montes  de  Reinosa,  which  are  very 
high,  and  generally  snow-capped.  Close 
by  lie  the  coal-fields  of  Orbo  and  Ccr- 
vera  which  are  worked  by  the  Northern 
Railway  Company.  The  engineering 
difficulties  to  be  overcome  between 
Reinosa  and  Barcena  are  great,  and  the 
outlay  is  considerable j  there  are  a  score 


of  tunnels  within  half  an  hour.  The 
scenery  all  around  is  now  exceedingly 
fine,  especially  about  Santiurde,  Pes- 
quera,  and  along  the  valley  of  Barcena. 

Omnibuses  at  station  of  Santander. 

From  Bayonne  the  tourist  may  either 
proceed  by  land,  taking  the  rail  to 
Irun,  and  from  thence  vid  Bilbao,  or 
by  sea — uncertain  sailings,  boats  not 
good. 

From  Bilbao  (see  p.  67)  the  line 
runs  inland  to  Aranguren,  on  the  older 
route  to  La  Robla,  then  turns  sharply 
north-west.  Two  trains  per  day,  in 
four  hours.  Prices  pes.  12,  8,  5.  Or  a 
fine  drive  may  be  taken  along  the  coast, 
vid  Somorrostro,  Castro  -  Urdiales, 
Laredo,  Gama  and  Solares.  At  So- 
morrostro observe  the  overhead  wire 
tramways. 

From  Vigo,  Gijon,  etc.,  by  irregular 
steamers.     See  those  names. 

Steamers  also  from  and  to  Liverpool 
and  London  at  regular  intervals. 


SANTANDER. 

General  Description. — Historical 
Notice.  If  we  leave  on  one  side  our 
old  friends  the  usual  Spanish  founders 
of  cities,  Noah,  Tubal,  etc.,  this  may 
have  been  the  site  of  the  Roman  Portus 
Blendium,  but  was  really  built  by  Al- 
fonso the  Catholic,  close  to  a  hermitage 
dedicated  to  St.  Andrew,  Ander,  Andres. 
Alfonso  VIII.  granted  to  it  a  fuero  and 
carta-pueblo,  placing  it  under  the  juris- 
diction and  rule  of  the  powerful  and 
wealthy  abbots  of  San  Emeterio.  A 
fortress  was  erected  and  atarazanas 
(docks)  built.  It  was  made  independ- 
ent by  Enrique  VI.  in  1467,  who  styled 
it  'Noble  y  Leal.'  Here,  July  16, 1522, 
Charges  V.  landed  to  take  possession  of 


8ANTANDER. 


363 


Spain,  and  in  1544,  a  fleet  of  forty 
vessels  sailed  under  D.  Alvaro  de  Bazan, 
in  pursuit  of  a  French  fleet  which  they 
destroyed  off  the  coast  of  Gallicia. 
Charles  I.  on  his  return  to  England 
embarked  here.  It  was  habilitado  for 
the  American  trade  in  1753,  when  it 
reached  its  acme  of  prosperity,  and  two 
years  after  was  declared  a  ciudad.  It 
was  most  cruelly  sacked  by  Soult,  Nov. 
16,  1808,  and  during  the  whole  war 
showed  great  opposition  and  discourtesy 
to  the  English  allies. 

The  city  can  be  divided  into  the 
older  and  new  portions.  The  principal 
streets  in  the  former  are,  Muelle  (the 
Quay),  San  Francisco,  Campania. 

This  thriving  city  is  screened  from 
the  N.  and  N.W.  winds,  but  lies  much 
exposed  to  the  strong  south.  Its  bay 
is  about  4  miles  long  and  1 J  to  3  wide. 
The  entrance  to  the  port  is  easy  and 
accessible  to  ships  of  all  sizes,  and  its 
barra  is  upwards  of  6  yards  at  low  tide. 
Its  Ria  is  formed  by  the  Miera  and 
Cubas,  which  flow  into  the  bay,  close 
to  the  sandbanks  of  El  Puntal.  These 
rivers,  and  a  third  one  which  flows  from 
Solares,  carry  large  quantities  of  sand, 
which  choke  up  the  bay,  and  are  being 
actively  removed  and  cleared  away.  The 
port  is  protected  by  a  fine  quay,  606  yards 
long,  the  view  from  which  is  extensive 
and  fine.  The  city  itself  is  situated  at  the 
base  of  a  hill  in  a  sort  of  peninsula  or 
headland.  Its  newly-built  houses,  ele- 
gant and  gay,  give  the  city  rather  a 
French  than  a  Spanish  appearance.  It 
is  on  the  high  road  to  prosperity,  which 
the  railroad  recently  opened  will  greatly 
contribute  to  ensure.  There  is  a  theatre, 
a  Liceo,  several  reading-rooms ;  some  so- 
cial intercourse  among  the  wealthy  mer- 
chants and  las  autoridades  de  la  provin- 
cia,  and  is  frequented  in  summer  for  sea- 
bathing. The  promenades  are  charm- 
ing, especially  the  Alameda  Primera  and 
the  Segunda ;  the  Paseo  del  Aita  and  £1 


Sardinero,  that  leads  to  the  bathing 
establishment,  and  close  to  which  is  the 
lighthouse,  which  is  visible  at  the  dis- 
tance of  20  miles. 

The  Plaza  de  Toros  contains  8000 
spectators,  and  was  built  in  1859.  From 
it  the  spectator  can  watch  the  ships 
loaded  with  bales,  sugars,  flour-barrels, 
etc.,  leaving  and  entering  the  busy, 
bustling  port ;  a  strange  contrast  with 
the  picturesque  slaughter-house  tragedy 
going  on  before  us. 

Sights. — The  principal  sights  are  the 
cathedral,  a  Gothic  edifice  of  no  merit, 
with  three  naves,  and  tawdry  chapels, 
and  a  crypt  called  Capilla  del  Cristo  de 
Abajo,  on  the  altar  of  which  are  pre- 
served the  heads  of  the  martyrs  San 
Emeterio  and  Celedorico.  The  bap- 
tismal font  is  in  marble,  with  an  Arabic 
inscription.  The  tobacco  manufactory 
was  a  former  nunnery  I  It  employs 
1060  workmen,  and  turns  out  some 
150,000  kil.  of  cigars.  The  Muelle  do 
Calderon,  with  its  gardens  and  fino 
views  of  the  Pena  Cabarga  and  the 
Solares,  etc.,  range,  forms  a  pleasant 
wall.  [On  the  Maliano  Quay  observe 
the  monument  to  the  300  men  who 
were  killed  in  the  dynamite  explosion 
of  Nov.  3,  1893.]  The  Astillero  (old 
shipbuilding  yard)  is  now  a  port  for  the 
shipment  of  iron  ore. 

Hotels. — Gran  Hotel  Gomez,  on  the 
Muelle  ;  Continental  and  Eurojpa,  both 
in  the  Calle  Mendez  Nunez  :  all  good. 
Pens.  8-15  pes.  At  Sardinero,  Gran 
Hotel  and  Castilla. 

Cafe's. — El  Suizo,  on  the  Muelle  , 
Cantabrico,  Calle  Hernan  CorUs. 

Post-Office.—  Calle  Rubio,  2.  Tele- 
graph Office,  Calle  Bailen,  2. 

Baths. — Sea-bathing  at  Sardinero  : 
ordinary  baths,  Calle  Sta.  Lucia,  1. 

Clubs. — The  Circulo  de  Becreo,  on  tho 
Muelle,English  and  French  newspapers. 
Regatta  Club.     Foreign  papers. 

Theatre. — A  pretty  good  one,  accom- 
modating 1000  visitors, 


364 


SANTIAGO. 


An  Evangelical  Church  and  School. 

Directory.—  Consuls.— E.  B.  ATs.t 
Walter  Single,  Esq.,  Consulate  on  the 
Muelle;  U.S.A.,  C.  Perez,  Muello ; 
Portuguese,  A.  de  la  Re  villa,  Calle 
Principe ;  French,  M.  A.  Ponsot,  Calle 
de  Velasco. 

Bankers. — Banco  de  Espafia,  Calle 
de  Velasco,  8.     Bank  of  Santandor 

N.B. — Every  information  connected 
with  steamers,  trade,  etc.,  is  to  be  ob- 
tained at  the  offices  on  the  quay. 

Excursions. — The  environs  of  the 
city  are  pleasant,  shady,  and  studded 
with  quintas,  casas  de  labor,  and  or- 
chards, where,  from  the  absence  of 
frost,   the   orange  and    citrons    grow 


I  luxuriantly.  A  steam  tram  runs  to  the 
bathing  suburb  of  Sardinero  (3  m.)  dur- 
ing the  season,  with  stations  at  San 
Martin  and  La  Magdalena.  There  are 
several  Bomerias  or  pilgrimages,  rather 
fairs  and  jollifications  than  otherwise. 
The  most  popular  is  that  of  Virgen  del 
Carmen,  held  July  16  and  the  ensuing 
Sunday  at  the  Triunfo  de  la  Santa  Cruz. 

Books  of  Reference. — x.  '  Hist,  de  la  Ciudad 
y  Prov.  de  Santander,'  by  Manuel  Assas.  This 
work,  published  about  1873,  deserves  praise  for 
its  accuracy  and  completeness. 

9.  ( Guia  de  Santander,'  by  Salomon  ;  *  Sant- 
ander Libreria  de  la  Abeja  Montafiesa,'  i860 ; 
very  indifferent. 

3.  Read  the  novels  of  Pereda,  and  especi- 
ally 'Sotileza,'  for  a  graphic  description  of 
Santander  and  its  ways. 


SANTIAGO. 


Province  of  Corona. — Primate  of  All 
Spain;  pop.  28,709. 

Koutes  and  Conveyances. — From 
La  Corufta  three  coaches  per  day  in 
about  5  hrs. 

From  Leon,  etc.,to  Lugo  or  Pontevedra 
by  rail.     Thence  by  daily  diL 

From  Lugo  51£  miles  by  good  dili- 
gences and  excellent  road. 

From  or  to  Carril  by  railway ;  42  kil. 
in  1}  hrs.    Three  trains  daily. 

From  or  to  Cape  Finisterre.  "We 
have  not  performed  this  excursion  our- 
selves, but  it  is  considered  very  wild 


and  picturesque.     A    local  -  guide   is 
necessary. 

Itinerary. 

Leagues 
Santiago  to  Puente  Maceira   .     3 
Buen  Jesus  .        .        .4 

Corcubion     .  .     3J 

Finisterre      ....     1 

iii 

From  Vigo,  by  rail  and  diL  Notice 
the  pretty  towns  and  harbour  of  Carril 
and  Villagarcia  (British  Vice-Consul) ; 
and  Padron,  with  its  Sacro  Monte,  where 
the  body  of  St.  James  landed  itself. 

For  those  who  enjoy  riding  or  driving 


SANTIAGO. 


365 


the  following  route  across  country  from 
Valladolid  may  be  taken,  passing 
several  places  of  interest  by  the  way  : — 


Itinerary, 
Valladolid  to  Simancas 
Benavente 
Mombuey 
Orense 

Castro  Dozon  . 
Santiago  . 


Leagues. 
.     a 

•  15I 
.  xo 

6 
.  xi — 17 

78* 

Benavente. — 4051  inhabitants.  A 
dull,  backward  town.  A  good  posada 
outside  the  town.  The  only  sight  is 
the  ruined  alcazar  of  the  Pimental 
family,  now  become  the  property  of  the 
Duke  of  Osuna,  who  is  Conde  Duque  de 
Benavente.  General  Moore's  celebrated 
retreat  (Dec.  28,  1809)  began  here. 

Between  this  and  Orense  the  only 
remarkable  objects  of  interest  are  the 
valleys  of  Allariz,  Limia,  del  Verin, 
which  latter  reaches  Portugal  at  Chaves, 
the  rivers  of  the  Orbigo  Limia,  etc. 
The  hamlets  are  uninteresting;  the 
scenery  monotonous. 

Orense. — Pop.  about  14,000.  Fonda 
Roma,  near  the  station.  Fonda  de  la 
Union,  Galle  de  Pereira.  Omnibus 
from  station,  50c.  Post  Office,  in  the 
Calle  de  Progreso. 

The  Gothic  Cathedral  is  interesting 
though  very  much  defaced.  It  was 
founded  in  the  6th  century,  but  the 
present  edifice  can  only  go  back  as  far 
as  1220.  Note  especially  the  great 
western  portico,  a  reproduction  of  the 
idea  so  splendidly  carried  out  at  Sant- 
iago, and  the  finely-sculptured  portals 
of  the  transepts.  See  the  old  Sala 
Capitular,  the  tombs  in  the  S.  aisle, 
the  nave  cols,  and  the  Capilla  del  Cristo 
Crucificado,  with  its  miraculous  image 
brought  in  1330  from  a  small  church  on 
Cape  Finisterre. 

The  Burgas  are  three  warm  springs ; 
temperature,  66  to  68  Cent  ;  they  have 
great  similarity  with  those  of  Carlsbad. 


The  bridge,  la  Puente  (both  mascu- 
line and  feminine  in  Spanish,  as  mar, 
agua,  etc.),  over  the  Mino  is  ascribed  to 
Trajan,  the  devil,  etc.  It  was  built  in 
1230,  by  Bishop  Lorenzo,  and  repaired 
in  1449.  It  is  1319  ft.  long.  The 
grand  arch  is  156  ft.  wide,  and  135  ft 
high.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  and  largest 
in  Spain — coming  only  after  those  of 
Almaraz  and  Alcantara. 

Between  Orense  and  Santiago  observe 
the  monte  of  Castro  Dozon,  the  valley 
of  the  Ulla,  and  the  Pico  Sagros.  The 
rivers  are  the  Mino,  Deza,  and  Ulla. 
The  villages  are  most  uninteresting. 

The  bridge  over  the  Mino  at  Tuy 

being  now  completed,   and   the  last 

section  of  the  Vigo  line  to  Monforte 

opened,  Orense  will  perhaps  receive  the 

attention  it  deserves. 
There  is  a  daily  coach  between  Orense 

and  Santiago. 

SANTIAGO. 

[N.B. — For  a  description  of  student 
life  at  Santiago  read  '  Pascual  Lopez,' 
by  E.  Pardo  Bazan.  For  the  archae- 
ology* '  Recuerdos  de  un  Viaje,'  by  R 
P.  F.  Fita  and  Fernandez  Guerra.] 

Hotels. — Fonda  Suiza ;  Fonda  Viz* 
caina;  Fonda  Ferro-Carrilana.  The 
first  the  best 

Oaf  is. — Suizo,  under  the  hotel ;  Del 
Siglo,  Calle  del  Villar;  Suizo,  Rua 
Nueva. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offices. — Both  in 
the  Plaza  de  los  Literarios,  facing  one 
another. 

N.B. — Taste  the  peculiar  Galician 
cheese,  queso  de  teta,  and  sweet  hams, 
jamones  dukes,  some  of  which  come 
from  Bayona  in  Galicia. 

General  Description. — This  dull 
city  is  situated  on  a  hill  surrounded 
by  a  range  of  mountains.  To  the 
S.  are  the  hills  of  Montonto,  Congo, 
and  the  Humilladoiro,  through  which 
passes  the  road  of  the  pilgrims,  who 
kneel  when  they  first  see  the  towers  of 


366 


SANTIAGO — CATHEDRAL. 


the  cathedral.  This  former  capital  of 
Galicia  was,  during  the  middle  ages, 
the  most  fashionable  resort  for  pilgrims. 
The  French  Fabliaux  called  those  then 
adventurous  tours  by  the  unique  name 
of  'the  pilgrimage  of  Asturias  and 
Froissart,'  'Le  Pelerinage  du  Baron 
St  Jaques,'  Baron  el  Santo  Varon — viz. 
the  great  man,  the  hero.  The  patron 
saint  of  Spain,  as  St.  George  is  that  of 
England,  and  St  Denis  of  France,  was 
St  James  the  Elder,  brother  of  St 
John  the  Apostle.  He  was  stoned  to 
death  at  Jerusalem.  In  835  the  Bishop 
of  Iria,  Theodomir,  discovered  the 
body  of  the  saint  in  a  wood  close  to  the 
actual  city,  where  a  star  had  pointed  it 
out  to  him.  That  discovery,  truly 
though  not  intentionally  called  an  in- 
vention, stirred  up  Christendom.  Al- 
fonso II.  erected  a  chapel  on  the  site  ; 
huts  at  first  and  subsequently  a  town 
sprang  around  it  Leon  III.  had  the 
body  transferred  to  Santiago,  which  he 
raised  to  a  see.  How  the  body  had 
alighted  in  Galicia,  being  buried  at 
Jerusalem,  and  no  account  showing 
that  it  was  ever  brought  here,  is  a 
miracle  worthy  of  the  rest  A  corn- 
rent,  called  el  Voto  and  el  Marion, 
consisting  of  a  bushel  of  corn  from 
every  acre  in  Spain,  was  carefully  col- 
lected by  especial  agents,  and  amounted 
to  a  yearly  income,  for  the  clergy  of 
Santiago,  of  some  £200,000.  The  tax 
was  not  abolished  until  1835.  Alfonso 
el  Magno  erected  a  magnificent  basilica, 
which  was  razed  by  Al-Manssour  on 
his  taking  the  city,  the  tutelar's  tomb 
being  alone  respected.  It  was  rebuilt 
by  Bermudo,  who  made  a  road  for  the 
pilgrims  of  France  and  centre  of  Spain. 
With  Jerusalem,  Rome,  and  Loretto, 
Compostella  (as  Santiago  was  called, 
from  the  star  having  led  to  the  dis- 
covery of  the  saint's  body)  has  been 
the  most  frequented  and  celebrated 
shrine  in  Christendom,   especially  in 


the  fifteenth  century.  Now  —  autre 
temps,  autres  moeurs  —  Lourdes  has 
supplanted  both  Compostella  and 
Zaragoza,  and  the  annual  number  of 
pilgrims  by  rail  to  the  queen  of  the 
Pyrenees  far  outstrips  the  devotees 
that  ever  crowded  to  the  older 
shrines.  Santiago,  the  great  Leviti- 
cal  city,  ranking  even  before  Toledo, 
has,  with  the  daily  decrease  of 
ecclesiastical  influence  and  wealth, 
dwindled  into  a  third-rate  provincial 
town.  Its  streets  are  narrow  and 
dirty,  except  the  Rua  Nueva,  and 
Rua  del  Yillar.  The  city  is  built 
on  an  uneven  site.  The  Plaza  del 
Pan  will  afford  many  a  local  tableau 
to  the  artist,  especially  on  Sundays 
after  mass,  when  the  peasants  dance 
and  play  at  single-stick ;  there  is  a 
charming  paseo,  called  el  Gran  Campo 
de  Sta.  Susana,  much  resorted  to.  The 
Calle  Algaria  de  Arriba  teems  with 
local  types.  The  Arcades  of  Rua  del 
Yillar  are  the  evening  lounge.  Here 
are  the  best  shops,  the  curious  Casa  del 
Dean,  Cafes,  etc 

Sights.— The    Cathedral— Hospital 
— Seminario  —  Colegio    de    Fonseca — 
.Convent  de  San  Martin — University, 
etc. 

©attic&ral. — This  edifice  is  situated  on 
one  side  of  the  handsome  Plaza  Mayor. 
It  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the  former 
cathedral  by  Bishop  Gelmirez,  1082k 
and  it  was  completed  in  1128.  But 
portions  of  the  primitive  basilica  of  the 
11th  century,  erected  by  Bermudo  II. 
and  Bishop  Cresonio,  still  remain,  and 
are,  as  it  were,  encased  in  the  newer 
one.  The  name  of  the  architect  is  not 
known.  The  style  is  not  uniform, 
owing  to  considerable  repairs  and  to 
additions  made  at  different  times. 

Exterior. — The  principal  facade  was 
raised  in  1738  by  one  Casas  y  Noboa, 
and  is  modern  in  style.  The  churri- 
gueresque  portal  is  placed  between  two 


SANTIAGO —  CATHEDRAL. 


36? 


heavy  towers.  Observe  the  statue  of 
Santiago,  before  which  kings  are  kneel- 
ing. Examine  also  the  S.  facade,  with 
its  splendidly-sculptured  Romanesque 
portal ;  and  the  Puerta  Santa,  opened 
only  in  time  of  jubilees,  and  by  the 
hands  only  of  the  bishop. 

Interior. — The  church  is  very  purely 
cruciform,  with  nave  and  side  aisles 
and  fifteen  dependent  chapels.  The 
interior,  at  least,  is  purely  Byzantine, 
graceful  and  elegant  notwithstanding 
its  solidity  and  subdued  lighting.  The 
piers  are  formed  of  groups  of  shafts, 
alternating  in  section ;  the  caps  well 
carved  with  foliage  and  animals.  There 
is  no  clerestory,  the  triforium  galleries 
being  earned  round  the  whole  church. 
The  roof  is  barrel- vaulted,  with  heavy 
ribs  ;  the  windows  original — round- 
arched.  The  over -decorated  modern 
Capilla  Mayor  is  the  great  attraction 
to  the  faithful.  In  the  centre  rises 
an  isolated  marble  altar,  of  jasper  and 
marble,  upon  which  is  seated  the  effigy 
of  the  tutelar,  dressed  in  a  rich  pil- 
grim's esclavina,  all  of  silver  and  gold, 
studded  with  precious  stones.  Behind 
him  are  four  statues  of  kings  kneeling 
with  a  second  effigy  of  the  saint,  the 
aureola  (glory)  of  which  is  of  rubies 
and  emeralds.  Above  is  a  sort  of  py- 
ramid, on  one  side  of  which  St.  James 
is  represented  at  the  battle  of  Clavigo 
killing  the  infidels  by  thousands.  The 
tomb  or  coffin  is  placed  on  four  angels 
seated  on  the  capitals  of  columns,  and 
a  golden  star  crowns  this  strange 
simulacro.  There  were  once  1000 
lamps  burning  incense  before  it — most 
of  them  were  carried  away  in  1809 ;  but 
the  incensario  under  the  cimborio  still 
remains,  and  gives  an  idea  of  what  the 
rest  must  have  been.  Behind  the  altar 
are  some  steps  which  pilgrims  ascend 
to  kiss  the  sacred  esclavina,  or  hood,  a 
ceremony  which  is  called  el  fin  del 
romage,  the  end  or  grand    object  of 


the  pilgrimage,  and  principal  sign  of 
homage. 

The  choir  stalls  were  carved  by 
Gregorio  Espafiol  in  1606  ;  the  two  fine 
bronze  pulpits  are  plateresque,  and  the 
work  of  Celma  (1563).  The  Belicario, 
opening  out  of  the  S.  aisle,  is  rich. 
Note  especially  a  Byzantine  cross  of 
gold-plated  wood  and  filigree  work, 
studded  with  precious  stones.  Accord- 
ing to  the  inscription  it  was  presented 
by  Don  Alonso  and  Dona  Jimena, 
a.d.  874.  Some  fine  14th  and  15th 
century  plate.  Ask  for  the  enamelled 
tombs  of  San  Cucufate  and  San 
Fructuoso,  Figueroa's  Viril  and  the 
silver  Urna  in  which  the  Host  is  placed. 

Note  carefully  the  unrivalled  P6rtico 
de  la  Gloria,  or  great  western  entrance, 
carved  by  'Master*  Mateo,  1168-1188, 
with  a  grand  representation — so  ambi- 
tious, yet  so  satisfactory — of  the  Last 
Judgment,  with  Christ  set  forth  as 
proceeding  from  the  Root  of  Jesse. 
Visit  below  this  the  old  Iglesia  Baja, 
and  observe  its  fine  Romanesque  work. 
Also  the  12th  century  'parroquia* 
chapel  of  La  Corticela  at  the  N.E. 
angle  of  the  cathedral,  together  with 
several  of  the  more  modern  chapels  of 
the  apse — Rey  de  Francia,  etc 

Cloisters. — They  are  said  to  be  the 
largest  in  Spain.  They  were  built, 
1533,  by  Archbishop  Fonseca,  and  be- 
long to  the  Flamboyant  Gothic. 

Hospital.  —  The  Hospicio  de  los 
Reyes,  so  called  because  built  by  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella,  for  the  use  of  pil- 
grims, was  the  work  of  Enrique  de 
Egas,  and  dates  1504.  It  is  a  very 
noble  pile,  worthy  alike  of  the  founders 
and  the  architect,  and  forms  a  square 
divided  into  four  quadrangles,  with  a 
chapel  in  the  centre.  The  portal  with 
statues  of  saints  and  pilgrims ;  the 
Gothic  and  transition  patios,  the  foun- 
tain, etc. ,  are  all  remarkable. 

Seminario. — Dates  1777,  and  WRfi 


368 


SEGOVIA. 


founded  by  Archbishop  Rasoy  for  the 
education  of  young  priests.  The  front 
is  fine  and  effective.  The  interior  in- 
different and  ill-used. 

University. — Founded  1532  by  Arch- 
bishop Fonseca.  A  fine  classical  edifice, 
with  a  good  library 

Convent  of  San  Martin. — This  very 
large  edifice  was  founded  912,  by  King 
Orduno  II.,  and  dedicated  to  that  saint ; 
but  it  has  since  been  considerably 
altered  and  modernised.  It  was  once 
very  wealthy.  Observe  the  grand  patio 
rebuilt  in  1636,  the  Doric  entrance  of 


1738,  the  magnificent  fountain,  the 
spacious  corridors,  from  which  extensive 
views  are  obtained ;  the  sacristia,  etc. 
The  churches  and  convents  and  houses 
at  Santiago  have  no  peculiar  style  to 
recommend  them,  and  have  been  mostly 
modernised. 

There  are  several  fine  walks  about 
Santiago,  especially  up  to  the  summit 
of  Monte  Pedroso,  W.N.  W.  of  the  city, 
2000  ft.,  and  to  Monte  Altamira,  or 
Los  Angeles,  on  the  Noya  Road.  But 
the  charms  of  the  place  centre  in  its 
noble  cathedral  and  picturesque  Ruas. 


SEGOVIA. 


Boutes  and  Conveyances.— 1 .  From 
Madrid  vid  Villalba ;  two 
trains  daily ;  distance,  101 
kil.  ;  fares,  1st  cl.,  pes. 
11.65 ;  2d  cl.,  pes.  8.75 ;  3d  cl.,  pes. 
5.30.  This  route  has  superseded  the 
magnificent  diligence  ride  from  Vill- 
alba over  the  mountains  vid  La 
Granja. 

2.  From  Medina  del  Campo ;  three 
trains  daily  in  3^-4  hrs.  ;  fares,  1st 
cl.,  pes.  10.70  ;  2d  cl.,  pes.  8.05. 

Daily  coach  Segovia  to  La  Granja, 
1J  pesetas. 

Hotels. — Hotel  Comercio,  the  best. 
La  Burgalesa,  in  the  Plaza,  fair. 

Cafe. — La  Union,  Calle  Real. 

General  Description. — This  once 
important  city  stands  upon  a  hill, 
washed  to  the  N.  by  the  Eresma,  which 
is  joined  here  by  the  noisy  rivulet 
Clamor es.  This  is  one  of  the  best  speci- 
mens extant  of  the  Gotho-Castilian  city. 
Stern,  massive,  breathing  war  and 
austerity,  one  among  the  aristocracy  of 
cities,  it  may  be  likened  to  a  staunch 
Bidalgo,  draped  in  his  tattered  cloak, 
which  looks  like  a  Roman's  purple,  all 
ruin,  all  pride,  all  poverty.  The  walls 
and  cubos,  the  irregular  narrow  streets, 
its  granite  houses  with   wire-worked 


balconies,  its  Alcazar  and  cathedral,  all 
speak  of  the  past,  and  will  tempt  the 
artist's  pencil.  It  was  first  a  Roman 
villa  of  pleasure.  The  aqueduct  is  said  to 
have  been  erected  by  Trajan  ;  it  carries 
water  into  the  city  from  a  distance  of 
about  nine  miles  from  the  Tierra  Fon* 
fria,  and  the  stream  of  the  Rio  Frio. 
This  cyclopean  work,  formed  of  masses 
of  grey  granite  dotted  with  black,  and 
joined  without  cement,  is  69J  m.  long, 
and  it  becomes  a  bridge  when  opposite 
the  ex-Convent  of  San  Gabriel,  which 
is  formed  by  320  arches,  of  which 
thirty-five,  destroyed  by  the  Moors 
when  they  sacked  Segovia,  were  re- 
paired, in  1483,  by  Queen  Isabella,  who 
employed  Escovedo,  a  very  able  Astu- 
rian,  who  also  built  the  bridges  near 
the  Eresma.  The  highest  arches  are 
102  feet.  Those  learned  in  these 
matters  assert  that  it  was  built  by  one 
Licinius,  but  tradition  ascribes  it  to 
Satan,  a  busy  architect  in  Spain,  who 
made  it  in  one  night,  with  the  gallant 
purpose  of  saving  a  Segoviana,  whom 
he  admired,  the  trouble  of  going  down 
to  the  river  for  water.  She  was 
touched  by  the  attention,  and  listened 
to  the  old  serpent's  accustomed  jdrab$ 
depico. 


SEGOVIA. 


369 


The  Alcazar,  destroyed  by  fire 
1862,  is  now  restored,  the  work 
haying  occupied  25  years.  This  once 
formidable  fortress  is  most  picturesquely 
situated  at  the  extremity  of  a  rocky  pro- 
montory, the  base  of  which  plunges  into 
a  ravine,  with  the  rapid  Eresma  flowing 
at  the  foot.  It  was  built  and  designed 
by  Alfonso  the  Learned  (end  of  the  11th 
century),  who  wrote  here  several  of  his 
works.  It  was  repaired  and  embellished 
by  Enrique  IV.,  1452;  Philip  II., 
employing  Herrera,  redecorated  the 
saloons  ;  Charles  I.  of  England  lodged 
here,  Sept.  13,  1623;  and  here  Gil 
Bias,  according  to  Le  Sage,  was  con- 
fined in  its  dungeons.  The  exterior 
of  this  palatial  castle  is  striking.  Ob- 
serve the  buttresses,  the  turrets,  in  the 
centre  of  which  rises  a  square  tower, 
flanked  with  turrets  also,  and  for  a 
long  time  used  as  a  state  dungeon. 
The  interior  was  Gotho- Moorish,  the 
work  of  Arab  artificers  of  end  of  14th 
century ;  here  the  shields  of  Castile 
and  Latin  inscriptions  were  mingled 
with  verses  of  the  Koran ;  several  of 
the  rooms  had  stalactite  ceilings  of  an 
Alhambraic  pattern,  and  with  friezes 
superbly  gilt. 

Observe  especially  the  Salon  del 
Trono  and  that  de  JReribimiento,  with 
the  delicate  renacimiento  frieze,  and, 
on  the  patio  side,  pretty  two -light 
round-headed  windows.  The  views 
obtained  from  the  balconies  on  the 
north  side  are  superb.  Notice  the  room 
called  Pieza  del  Cordon,  so  called  be- 
cause King  Alfonso,  whose  study  it 
was,  ventured  one  day  to  doubt  that 
the  sun  revolves  round  the  earth,  an 
anticipated  *E  pur  si  muove'  (which 
was  to  be  punished  also),  when  a  flash 
of  lightning  interrupted  his  heterodox 
speculation,  in  memory  of  which  the 
rope  of  St.  Francis  was  modelled  and 
sculptured  on  stone  round  the  cornice. 
On  first  floor  is  a  small  room  called 

2 


Sala  de  los  Reyes.  Here,  in  1326,  a 
lady  of  the  court  of  Henry  III.  let  the 
infant  Don  Pedro  fall  out  of  the  window 
into  the  Eresma.  Her  head,  conse- 
quently, was  cut  off.  A  slab  placed 
on  a  tomb  in  the  Chapel  of  the' Alcazar 
represents  the  royal  baby  holding  a 
sword. 

The  chapel  is  no  longer  worth  more 
than  a  passing  glance.  The  upper 
rooms  are  destroyed,  but  the  walls  are 
worth  climbing  for  the  sake  of  the 
views.  In  this  castle  was  also  con- 
fined the  celebrated  prime  minister 
and  favourite  of  Philip  V.,  Duke  de 
Ripperda,  a  Dutchman,  naturalised 
Spanish.  He  escaped  from  this  prison, 
became  a  Protestant,  then  a  Mussul- 
man, then  a  Bashaw  and  Generalissimo 
of  the  Emperor  of  Morocco,  and  died  a 
pauper  in  a  hut  near  Tangier.  Descend 
to  the  Eresma  by  the  Puerta  Castel- 
lanos.  From  the  Fuencisla  the  view  of 
the  Alcazar  is  very  striking.  The  cliff 
above  is  La  Pefia  Grajera,  from  which 
Sta.  Maria  del  Salto  (of  the  leap,  or 
jump),  a  Jewess  newly  converted,  was 
cast  down  and  reached  the  bottom 
unhurt.  A  cypress  and  hideously 
decorated  chapel  mark  the  spot  and 
miracle.  She  was  finally  buried  in  the 
cathedral  cloisters  (N.  W.  angle),  where 
do  not  fail  to  read  her  curious  epitaph. 

Catfjetiral. — A  fine  example  of  late 
Gothic.  It  rises  on  the  site  of  a  former 
church  of  the  11th  century,  which 
Alfonso  rebuilt.  It  was  erected  1525, 
by  Juan  Gil  de  Ontanon  and  his  son 
Rodrigo,  on  the  model  of  that  other 
masterpiece  of  theirs,  the  Cathedral  of 
Salamanca.  It  is  351  ft.  long,  by  177 
wide  ;  the  central  nave  rises  99  ft.,  and 
the  cupola  330  high.  The  west  fagade  is 
bare ;  the  east  end  is  very  ornamented ; 
the  interior  is  light,  simple,  and  pleas- 
ing ;  the  stained  glass  very  fine.  The 
High  Chapel,  high  altar,  trascoro,  and 
pavement,  are  all  of  precious  marbles, 
B 


370 


SEGOVIA. 


and  of  the  same  is  the  great  retablo  put 
up  by  Sabatini  for  Charles  III.  The 
rejaa  are  mostly  of  gilt  iron,  and  many 
of  them  deserve  close  attention.  Chapel 
de  la  Piedad,  which  is  the  fifth  on  the 
left ;  the  retablo,  the  masterpiece  of 
Juan  de  Juni,  designed  and  executed 
1571  ;  the  subject  is  the  Descent  from 
the  Cross  ;  it  is  one  of  the  finest  sculp- 
tures in  Spain.  Observe  the  beautiful 
expression  of  physical  human  pain  and 
sorrow,  which  diminishes  nowise,  but 
rather  enhances,  the  divine  beauty  and 
majesty  of  the  God.  The  attitude  and 
heartrending  bereavement  of  the  truly 
Mater  Dolorosa  ;  the  sublime  character 
with' which  each  of  the  persons  drama- 
tis is  invested  ;  the  absence,  too  rare  in 
Spain,  of  gory  wounds,  ill-suited  gar- 
ments, and  raw  colouring,  all  combine 
to  make  attentive  connoisseurs  question 
the  statement  that  there  are  no  sculp- 
tors in  Spain  !  Observe  also  a  picture 
of  Sto.  Tomas,  once  by  Alfonso  Coello, 
1578,  for  its  restoration  has  spared  no- 
thing. The  cloisters  were  built  1524, 
by  Juan  Campero,  on  the  site  of  former 
ones,  which  were  destroyed  by  the 
Comuneros.  Among  others,  observe 
the  fine  tomb  of  Bp.  Covarrubias,  ob. 
1576  ;  that  of  Infante  D.  Pedro,  son  of 
Henrique  II.,  etc. 

Outside  the  town  visit  the  once 
wealthy  Hieronomite  convent  of  El 
Parral  (the  vineyard).  It  was  built 
towards  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century, 
by  Juan  Gal  lego.  Observe  the  fine 
western  portal ;  the  effectively  lighted 
east  end ;  the  high  retablo,  the  work  of 
Diego  de  Urbina.  The  once  magnificent 
sepulchres  of  the  founders  (the  Marquis 
de  Villena  and  his  wife)  are  seriously 
injured,  but  still  most  pure  and  good. 
The  cloisters,  refectory,  and  all  the  rest 
of  the  conventual  buildings  are  irre- 
parably defaced. 

Visit,  dose   by,   the  curious  13th   century 


Templars'  Church  of  La  Vera  Cruz  (apply 
beforehand  to  the  architect  of  the  Ayunta- 
miento  for  the  key).  Built  by  Honorius  II.  in 
imitation  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  Notice  the 
ornamentation  of  the  W.  portal,  with  inscrip- 
tion, the  fine  Romanesque  work  throughout, 
the  is -sided  nave  and  inner  chamber  of  two 
stages — the  upper  one  a  chapel,  the  lower  the 
sepulchre. 

Santa  Cruz.— On  way  back  from  El  Parral 
to  the  city,  under  the  city  walls.  A  Dominican 
convent -church,  founded  by  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella.  Observe  the  flamboyant  portal  and 
the  Tanto  Mont*  badge.  A  debased  copy  of 
£1  Parral.  Reja  and  retablo  a  gift  of  Philip 
II.  X557.  In  the  N.  transept  a  niche  containing 
remains  of  a  Companion  of  the  Order,  date  xaxft. 

San  Esteban, — Near  cathedral,  on  plaza  of 
same  name.  Examine  the  13th  century  tower 
of  5  arcaded  stages,  with  pointed  and  round 
arches.  A  notable  example  of  the  open  corre- 
ctor, or  cloistering  (common  in  the  N.W.  of 
Spain),  runs  along  the  S.  aide.  One  or  two 
curious  tombs. 

San  Juan  (see  fine  view  from  N.E.  corner). 
— Near  the  Plaza.  Another  good  Romanesque 
edifice,  but  in  bad  condition.  Within  are  the 
tombs  of  some  of  the  Conquistadores  :  also  of 
Colmenares  the  Segovian  historian,  ob.  1651. 

Corpus  Crist i. — In  the  Calle  Real,  close  by 
Plaza.  Good  specimen  of  a  converted  Jewish 
synagogue.  Now  a  Franciscan  nunnery.  Very 
similar  in  style  and  decoration  to  Santa  Maria 
la  Blanca  (see  p.  457). 

San  Martin, — Calle  Real.  Splendid  project- 
ing  W.  portal  and  external  cloistering.  Interior 
modernised,  but  observe  tombs  of  Herrera  and 
wife  (in  chapel  of  N.  aisle),  and  of  Don  Rodrigo. 

San  Millan. — In  southern  valley,'  $  m.  S.  W. 
of  city.  Very  fine,  though  interior  a  good  deal 
spoiled  by  restoration.  Much  good  Romanesque 
work,  especially  about  the  untouched  exterior. 

Visit  also  the  desecrated  San  Agustin  (Gothic) 
on  crest  of  hill,  San  Roman,  Santa  Trinidad 
and  San  Nicolas,  all  showing  good  Romanesque 
work;  San  Miguel,  at  S.E.  corner  of  the 
Plaza  (fine  old  Triptych  and  sculpture) ;  San 
Lorenzo  (good  pictures),  lying  }  m.  outside  the 
city  on  the  N.E. ;  and  the  Ermita  of  the  Cristo 
de  Santiago  (curious  crucifixion). 

The  old  Casa  de  Moneda  is  now  a  fabrica  de 
harinas.  The  Museo  Provincial  is  not  worth  a 
visit.  Observe  the  quaint  Casa  de  los  Picos 
(Florentine),  in  the  Calle  Real ;  the  Casa  de 
Segovia,  in  the  Calle  de  los  Leones,  with  ajitnes 
window  and  fine  patio ;  the  towers  and  gates  of 
the  city  walls,  and  many  examples  of  domestic 
architecture  of  the  15th  and  16th  centuries. 


S71 


SEVILLE. 


Seville. — Capital  of  province  of  Se- 
ville. Residence  of  Captain-General. 
Population,  133,000. 

Boutes  and  Conveyances. — From 
Madrid  vid  C6rdoba  (For 
Madrid — C6rdoba  see  Cor- 
"dova)  by  rail  throughout; 
three  trains  a  day.  Distance  from 
Cdrdoba  108  kil. ;  time,  by  mail  train, 
3 J  hours.  Fares,  1st  cl.,  pes.  15.10 ; 
2d  cl.,  pes.  11.35.  The  mail  train  has 
1st,  2d,  and  3d  class  carriages;  good 
and  comfortable;  coupes,  if  desired, 
with  the  usual  augmentation  of  price. 
Tri- weekly  exp.,  1st  and  2d  cl.,  Mon., 
Wed.,  and  FrL  Take  tickets  at  Madrid 
at  the  Sleeping  Car  Agency,  or  Cook's 
Offices.  Time,  from  Madrid  to  Seville, 
184  flrs.  by  mail  train,  15  by  exp.;  disk, 
573  kil.  Buffets  at  Alcazar,  Espeluy, 
Cdrdoba,  and  Lora  del  Rio. 

The  route  from  Cdrdoba  is  not 
interesting,  and  no  important  towns, 
historical  sights,  etc.,  are  traversed. 
The  Guadalquivir  is  followed  all  the 
way,  appearing  on  left  as  far  as  Lora, 
and  shortly  after  changing  to  the  right 
as  far  as  Seville.  See  Andalusia  for 
details  on  this  river.  The  following 
are  the  principal  cities  which  the  rail- 
way passes. 

Almodovar. — Situated  on  the  slopes 
of  a  high  hill.  The  castle,  though 
mostly  ruined,  contains  a  few  halls  well 
preserved.  In  it  was  confined  D.  Juana 
de  Lara,  Sefiora  de  Viscaya,  by  order 
of  her  brother-in-law,  Don  Pedro  el 
Cruel.  On  leaving  the  station,  several 
streams  and  torrents,  dry  in  summer, 
are  crossed.  Palma  produces  delicious 
oranges,  and  is  situated  amid  a  real 
forest  of  orange-trees.  The  Guadalquivir 
is  joined  here  by  the  Genii,  which  flows 
from  Granada  and  Ecija.    Pefiaflor,  the 


Roman  Ilipa,  and  then  an  important 
strategical  post. 

Lora  del  Rio.—  6800  inhab.  The 
Roman  Flavia.  Taken  by  King  S.  Fer- 
dinand ;  granted  by  him  to  the  knights 
of  Malta  in  1282.  10  kil.  hence  lead 
up  to  the  hill  de  Setefilla,  which  is 
crowned  with  a  celebrated  sanctuary 
dedicated  to  a  miraculous  Virgin,  which 
in  times  of  great  public  calamities  is 
brought  down  to  the  city  and  pro- 
menaded in  procession.  Its  jewels  and 
dresses  are  valued  at  £10,000. 

Carmona  is  one  of  the  cities  in  Spain 
which  have  preserved  their  couleur 
locale.  Its  fair,  April  25,  is  therefore 
an  interesting  sight  for  painters  and 
hunters  after  the  picturesque.  15,000 
inhabitants.  It  was  taken  from  the 
Moors  by  St  Ferdinand  in  1247.  He 
gave  the  city  this  motto :  —  '  Sicut 
Lucifer  lucet  in  Aurora ;  sic  in  Bsetica 
Carmona. '  The  Moorish  castle  was  en- 
larged by  Pedro  el  Cruel,  who  converted 
it  into  a  prison  for  his  female  favourites, 
when  he  either  grew  tired  of  them  or 
vowed  them  to  vengeance.  Here  were 
confined  Dona  Leonora  de  Guzman, 
Aldonza  Coronel,  etc.  This  ruined 
Alcazar,  with  its  torn-up  walls,  rent 
turrets,  lofty,  desolate,  now  the  refuge 
of  the  bat,  is  not  wanting  in  romantic 
appearance.  The  few  monuments  here 
are  disfigured  by  the  cal  de  Moron,  with 
which  that  sad  whitewash  is  made  which 
hides  so  many  treasures  in  Andalusian 
edifices.  See  the  Puerta  de  Sevilla,  a 
vestige  of  the  former  fortifications,  with 
its  gigantic  cubos,  etc  Ch.  of  Santa 
Maria,  three  naves,  choir  in  centre  of 
church,  preserves  somewhat  the  char- 
acter of  the  original  mosque.  Close 
at  hand  is  the  Archaeological  Museum, 
with  some  fine  fossils,  various  pre- 


372 


SEVILLE. 


historic  remains,  and  Roman  and 
Moorish  antiquities.  Without  the 
town,  on  the  west,  there  is  a  deeply 
interesting  Roman  Necropolis,  dis- 
covered by  Mr.  George  Bonsor  in  1881. 
The  tombs  have  been  dug  out  of  the 
solid  rock,  and  have  niches  for  cinerary 
urns.  See  especially  the  Tridinio  del 
Elefante,  so  named  from  the  stone 
sculpture  at  the  entrance.  [Tickets, 
1  pes.  each,  obtainable  at  No.  47,  G. 
San  Pedro.] 

Tocina,  Br  cues,  etc. — All  is  poverty 
here,  and  the  proverb  is  true  :  '  Si  vas 
a  Brenes  lleva  que  cenes.'  Soon  after 
leaving  La  Rmconada  the  Giralda  of 
Seville  rises  before  us.  To  the  right, 
at  some  distance,  are  the  ruins  of 
Italica ;  a  little  further,  Santi  Ponce 
and  La  Gartuja  de  Triana,  now  a 
porcelain  manufactory.  On  the  left 
we  see  the  ancient  ramparts  of  Seville, 
the  Barrio  of  La  Macarena,  etc.  At 
the  station  are  omnibuses ;  for  fares, 
etc.,  see  Seville, 

From  Cadiz  by  rail  via  Jerez. — Dis- 
tance, 153  kiL  ;  time,  ohrs.,  and  4hrs. 
30min.;  three  trains  a  day.  Fares,  1st  cl., 
pes.  18.20  ;  2d  cl.,  pes.  13.35.  For  route 
from  Cadiz  to  Jerez,  see  Jerez.  From 
Seville  to  Jerez,  thus: — The  railway 
station  is  close  to  the  tobacco-manu- 
factory, cannon-foundry,  and  palace  of 
San  Telmo. 

The  Guadaira  is  crossed,  after  which 
we  reach  Utrera — 14,013  inhabitants. 
This  town  was  of  some  importance  un- 
der the  Catholic  kings,  and  greater  still 
under  the  rule  of  the  Moor,  who  fortified 
it  strongly.  Placed  between  two  hills 
and  in  a  pleasant  valley,  the  country 
around  it  is  most  fertile,  and  teems  with 
corn,  oil,  and  wine.  The  corn  yields 
6  per  1,  and  oil  is  sold  to  the  amount 
of  some  £14,000  yearly.  28  kil.  E.  is 
the  town  of  Moron.  There  is  a  talk  of 
a  branch  line  through  Moron  to  Osuna, 


with  a  view  to  work  the  rich  marble 
quarries  close  to  latter,  and  in  Sierra 
Estepa.      Utrera    still    preserves    its 
Moorish  walls  and  thirty-four  turrets, 
all  curious ;  and  a  lofty  castle,  the  Igle- 
sia  Mayor,  has  a  Berruguete-like  facade. 
The  arch  over  the  door  is  decorated  with 
numerous  heads  of  angels,  and  the  door 
itself  is  flanked  by  statues  of  SS.  Peter 
and  Paul  in  niches.     Over  is  a  Con- 
ception    supported    by    angels ;    and 
above,   the    Eternal    Father.      Three 
naves,   central  one  Gothic.      On  the 
whole,  this  church,  which  dates  14th 
century,  is  most  indifferent,  and  pre- 
sents a  medley  of  styles.    The  tower  or 
belfry  is  of  17th  century.     In  the  high 
chapel  is  the  tomb  of  a  Ponce  de  Leon ; 
indifferent   Santiago  is  older,  and  offers 
an  Oriental  character  outside.     Among 
its  relics  is  carefully  preserved  one  of 
the  thirty  coins  for  which  Judas  sold 
Jesus.     The  bulls  and  horses  of  Utrera 
are  renowned. 

Lebrija. — The  Moorish  Nebrishah, — 
In  the  older  portion  of  the  castle  there 
is  a  small  chapel  which  retains  the 
style  of  mosques  of  the  9th  century. 
Three  naves  divided  by  columns,  sup- 
porting on  each  side  three  wide  horseshoe 
arches.  The  Iglesia  Mayor  has  also  a 
strongly  marked  Moorish  appearance. 
Inside,  the  Moorish  portion  goes  only  as 
far  as  the  transept  The  rest  is  modern ; 
three  naves,  the  capitals  Byzantine. 
Formerly  this  mosque  had  the  shape 
of  a  Greek  cross,  and  formed  nine 
similar  portions  with  as  many  cupolas, 
each  of  different  shape — somewhat  re- 
sembling in  style  the  Ermita  del  Cristo 
de  la  Luz  at  Toledo.  There  is  a  fine 
Gothic  lateral  facade  of  beginning  of  13  th 
century.  The  high  retablo  in  Iglesia 
Mayor  was  begun  by  Alfonso  Cano's 
father  in  1628,  and  finished  by  the  son 
in  1636.  The  statues  are  by  them,  but 
the  pictures  by  one  Pablo  LLegot  The 
belfry  of  the  church  is  a   copy  made 


SEVILLE. 


373 


In    last    century    of  the    Giralda  of 
Seville.      The  castle  was   erected  by 
Suleyman  AM-el-Malek,  who  ruled  at 
Sidonia,  and  was  no  better  than  Jos6 
Maria  and  his  bandidos  in  our  time  ;  it 
has  been  a  refuge  for  such  like  pro- 
fesores.     '  Matale  y  vete  a  Utrera '  is  a 
proverbwhich  speaks  volumes.  Antonio 
de  Lebrija,  born  here,  was  the  finest 
classical  scholar  of  the  Renaissance,  and 
one  of  the  assistants  of  Cardinal  Ximenez. 
(See  Jerez,  routes.) 

From  Cadiz  by  the  river  Guadal- 
quivir. Time,  8  hrs.  j  fares,  60r.  ; 
breakfast,  8r.  to  lOr. ;  dinner,  14r.  to 
16r. ;  table  d'hote  and  a  la  carte  on 
board  ;  speed  10  to  12  miles  an  hour. 
There  is  a  special  line  of  steamers 
plying  between  Cadiz  and  Seville. 
Once  a  week  (Millan,  C.  Duque  de 
Victoria  2,  agent)  and  frequent  smaller 
vessels.  The  departures  of  all  these 
are  advertised  in  the  Seville  and  Cadiz  lo- 
cal papers.  This  route  is  seldom  taken 
now  that  the  railroad  is  opened,  and  the 
river  itself  has  little  to  interest  save  its 
traditions  and  ppetry ;  the  villages  and 
stations  passed  are  most  indifferent. 
Below  Seville  the  river,  branching  off, 
forms  two  islands.  The  Isla  Mayor  is 
40  kil.  long,  and  the  Isla  Menor  only 
17.  Bonanza,  not  unlike  a  French 
port  and  village,  and  San  Lucar  de 
Barrameda,  are  passed,  as  well  as  Rota, 
far-famed  for  its  Tintilla  wine.  For 
boat-fares  at  Cadiz,  etc.,  see  Cadiz. 

From  Granada,  see  Granada  from  Seville, 
by  Osuna  and  Bobadilla,  etc. 
From  Rondo,  there  are  3  routes. 

1.  Via  Zahara:  Itinerary. 

Leagues. 

Ronda  to  Zahara.      .        .  4 

Puerto  Serracio                         .  2 

Coronil 4 

Utrera      ....  3 

Seville      .                 ...  5 

18 

b  long  days'  riding  across  mountainous  country  ; 
up  hill  and  down  dale.  The  scenery  wild,  but  not 


very  picturesque.  Sleep  at  Zahara  (a  fair 
Venta),  a  Moorish  -  looking  village,  with  a 
river  and  high  rocks  defending  its  strong  po- 
sition. Captured  1461  by  Muley  Hassan. 
The  Guadalete  is  crossed,  and  then  the  Puerto 
ascended.  Sleep  at  CoronH  next  night,  Posada 
Nueva,  and  through  wastes  and  a  few  olive 
grounds  to  Utrera,  which  can  be  avoided  by 
going  to  Venta  de  Utrera  only,  and  arriving 
that  same  evening  at  Seville. 

2.  Via  Olvera :  Itinerary. 

Leagues 
Ronda  to  Setenil                      .2 
Olvera      .        .                        .2 
Zaframugon     ...  a 

Moron 9 

by  rail  to  Utrera,  1  h.,  whence 

to  Seville  by  rl.,  1  h. 
Archal      .....    9 
Gaudal  ...    4 

Seville      .....    3 

17 

An  uninteresting  route.  Close  to  Moron  arc 
vestiges  of  silver-mines  now  abandoned,  and 
loadstones  and  emeralds  are  found  now  and  then. 
Ride  in  2}  days.  First  night  sleep  at  Olvera, 
next  at  Moron,  and  the  third  arrive  early. 

3.  ViA  Ecija,  13}  leagues. 

Itinerary.  Leagues. 

Ronda  to  Setenil  de  los  Bodegas  .    3 
Venta  del  Granada!      .        .        .     1 J 
Sanago  ......     2^ 

Osuna 2J 

Ecija 4} 

Whence  by  rail  to  Seville.  (For  Ecija,  see 
below.)  Or  continue  by  Marina,  2  leagues; 
Alcala  de  Guadira,  2  leagues;  and  Seville,  2 
leagues — 6  leagues.  Sleep  at  Osuna  (see 
Granada  from  Seville).  Though  portions  of 
this  route  are  picturesque,  it  is  seldom  adopted, 
and  not  to  be  recommended.  N.B.  —  Rail 
from  Ecija  to  Seville,  joining  the  Bobadilla  and 
Granada  direct  line  at  Marchena.  One  train 
per  day :  combination  awkward. 
5.  From  Gibraltar  by  Utrera,  28  leagues. 

Itinerary.  Leagues. 


Gibraltar  to  San  Roque 

Jimena  by  Bocaleones 

Venta  de  la  Carrera  . 

Ubrique  (sleep  here)  . 

Villamartin 

Coronil 

Utrera  (sleep  here)      . 

Seville 


4 
*i 

5 

2 

5 
5 

28 


r 


374 


SEVILLE. 


Very  wild  and  somewhat  lonely. 
From  Badaj'oz.    By  rail.    (See  Indicator.) 
To  or  from  Almaden  mines  (see  Cordova). 
To  mines  of  Rio  Tinto.    By  rail  via  Huelva. 
Or  riding: — 

Itinerary.  Leagues. 

Seville  to  Venta  de  Paganosa  4 

Algarrobo 1 

Castillo  de  las  Guardias  3 

Rio  Tinto    ...  .5 

13 

May  be  performed  in  one  long  day.  Excel- 
lent shooting  on  the  way;  the  botany  very 
interesting.  Travellers  can  sleep  at  Castillo 
de  las  Guardias,  and  dine  next  day  early  at  R. 
Tinto,  where  there  is  a  good  fosada. 

From  or  to  Huelva  and  Ayamonte.  To 
Huelva. 

By  rail  direct  to  Huelva,  two  trains  per  day 
in  4  hrs.  Thence  by  riding.  Or  via  Cadiz, 
steamer  and  rail.  Or  riding  all  the  way  (not 
recommended) : — 

Itinerary.  Leagues. 

Seville  to  San  Lucar  la  Mayor  .       3 

Manzanilla 4 

La  Palma    ....  2 

Villarosa 1 

Niebla 2 

San  Juan  del  Puerto   ...  2 

Huelva 2 

Gibraleon    .....  2 

Cartaya       .                .        .        .  4 

Lipe     ......  1 

Redondela 1 

Ayamonte   .  .  .3 

27 

The  accommodations  are  wretched,  and  the 
toads  worse. 

For  Huelva,  see  Cadiz. 

San  Lucar — 3400  inhabitants — is  charm- 
ingly situated  amid  fertile  plains  called  Her* 
cules*  Garden  by  the  Arabs.  Its  situation,  on  a 
height,  is  picturesque,  and  the  views  extensive. 
The  olive,  vine,  etc,  abound  in  its  environs, 
and  numerous  flocks  of  sheep  pasture  its  rich 
dehesas  and  prados.  The  city  itself  is  most 
uninteresting.  The  streets  dull  and  not  paved. 
The  belfry  of  the  church  somewhat  resembles 
the  Giralda  of  Seville.  3  miles  further  is  the 
hamlet  of  Manzanilla^  2600  inhab.,  on  a  height, 
and  celebrated  for  its  wonderful  wine  of  that 
name. 

Niibla, — 86b  inhab. ;  once  important ;  an 
old  wall  and  ruins  of  the  castle  of  its '  Condes ' ; 
dull  and  most  indifferent. 

From  or  to  Ecija. — A.  Ecija  to  La  Palma, 


22  kil.,  riding,  whence  by  rail  (Indicader)\ 
Seville.    Palma  is  a  station  on  the  Cc 
to  Seville  line.     B.    To  Marchena  by 
where   join   the  Bobadilla   line  (see  p. 
Routes  from  Honda).    Ecija.     Posada 
/Wa— -decent ;  population  over  24,000 
situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Genii 
pleasant  valley,  and  amid  plentiful  or 
and  gardens.     It  is  very  effective  from  a 
tance,  and  the  city  is  clean,  gay-looking, 
the  houses  provided  with  patios,  fountains, 
plants.    Little  or  nothing,  save  a  few  gates  1 
towers,  remains  of  the  Moorish  period,  in 
the  Roman  Astigi,  then  a  most  important 
was   converted   into   an   agricultural   cei 
The  town  bears  for  arms  the  Sun,  and 
motto,  'Una  sola  sera  llamada  la  ciudad 
Sol;'   and  it  truly  deserves  to  be  the 
habitation,  for  this  city,  graphically  called 
sarten  (frying-pan)  de  Andalusia,'  is  the  hoi 
place  in  all  the  S.  of  Europe.    For  sight: 
visit  the  Plaza  Mayor  with  its  arcades, 
salon,  a  favourite  evening  paseo,  and  its 
fountain  with  statues ;  around  are  some 
mansions,  especially  those  of  Benamegi, 
flor,  and  Town  Hall.   In  the  interior  are  sei 
other  houses  belonging  to  Marques  de 
seca  (Duchess  of  Medina  Cell's  brother-in-I 
and  a  great  bull-fighter),  Marques  de  la 
rantia  de  Cortes,  etc.     Observe   the  pr 
patios  covered  with  awnings  in  the  sui 
The  theatre  is  roofless— a  necessary  mc 
that  climate.      The    Plaza  de   Toros,  wi 
some  of  the  best  bull-fights  take  place,  cont 
10,000  spectators,  and  is  built  on  the  site 
Roman  circus.    Between  the  river  and  the  1 
outside  the  town  is  a  fine  paseo  with  fount 
gardens,  etc,  and  the  monumento  del  Trit 
which  consists  of  a  pillar  with  a  gilt  stati 
St  Paul,  by  whom  the  city  boasts  to  have 
visited.  Observe,  moreover,  the  quaint  One 
looking  azulejo-studded  church  towers, 
especially  '  La  Calle  de  las  Caballeros,'  wl 
the  principal  houses  are  to  be  seen. 

N.B. — There  is  a  road  to  Cordova  over] 
waste  land,  10  leagues  through  La  Carlota. 


The  Climate.— Seville  is  shell 
from  the  N".  and  S.  by  a  double  wall* 
hills,  but  it  has  a  large  gap  toi 
the  E.  and  W.,  and  is  especially 
posed  to  the  action  of  the  N.E. 
S.E.  winds.     The  anemometric  ol 
vations  made  during  several  yeatt 
the  observatory  of  Seville  are, 


' 


sC-  Black,  Lo  n  doit. 


J.  Berdiolamew,  Eita* 


SEVILLE. 


375 


fore,  in  contradiction  with  Dr.  Francis, 
who,  in  his  work  on  the  climate  of 
Spain,  states  quite  the  contrary,  assign- 
ing importance  to  the  N.  wind.     The 
prevailing  winds  are  the  levante  (E.), 
and  poniente  (W.S.W.)  ;    the  former 
blowing  mostly  in  summer  and  spring, 
and  the  latter  in  autumn  and  winter. 
The   levante,   as  redoubtable    here  as 
at  Gibraltar,  and  the   Malaga  terral, 
excites  the  nervous  system,   congests 
the  brain,  produces  irritation,  which 
is  often  followed  by  quarrels  and  mur- 
der.    It  is  a  burning  blast,  a  scorch- 
ing breath  from  the  desert ;  when  it 
blows,  do  therefore  as  the  natives — viz. 
close  hermetically  both  doors  and  win- 
dows. The  poniente  is  moist  and  balmy, 
and  is  often  accompanied  by  rain.    It  is 
prevalent  in  November,  December,  and 
spring.    According  to  Dr.  Francis,  Lee, 
and  others,    compared  with  southern 
Spain    in    general,   Seville  would    be 
termed  wet,  but  if  with  England,  essen- 
tially dry,  and  this  must  be  pronounced 
a  just,  if  broad,  comparison.    Although 
the  calculations  of  the  observatory  may 
seem    to    refute  any  charge  brought 
against  Seville  on  the  score  of  inequality 
of  climate  (showing  only  some  thirty 
days  of  rain  for  years  together),  and  to 
stamp  it  as  invariably  dry  and  warm, 
our  own  experience  of  two  or  three 
seasons— between  1883  and  1895 — has 
proved    that   the  place  is  not  to  be 
depended  upon  as  good  wintering  quar- 
ters, owing  to  the  prevalence  of  rain 
in  December,  and  the  occasional  bit- 
ing frosts  against  which  no  precautions 
are  taken  —  or   are    even    available. 
Still,    storms  are   almost    unknown, 
and    there    are   seldom    any    sudden 
changes ;     3°    Cent,    is    the    outside 
sudden  variation  to   be   looked   for, 
and  that  only  in  spring  and  autumn. 
The  nights  are  fresh   here,   as  else- 
where in  Andalusia.     In  summer  the 
heat,  when  the  levanter  prevails,  is 


most  sultry  and  insupportable,  and  the 
thermometer  then  rises  to  28°  Cent.,  and 
even  30"  Cent,  or  more,  in  the  shade. 
The  thermometer,  from  six  years' 
constant  observation  by  D.  Sancho, 
marked  on  an  average  18°  2  Kh.  (20* 
3  Cent.),  the  quicksilver  never  falling 
below  +3  +  4°  Cent  at  break  of  day, 
and  keeping  between  12°  and  14°  Cent, 
in  the  day. 

Table. 
Average  atmospheric  pressure 
,,       annual  temperature  . 
Temperature,  maximum  (Aug.) 

,,  minimum  (Jan.) 

Number  of  rainy  days     . 
Quantity  fallen 


761.05 
20.3 

48.3 
0.5 

34 
732  mil. 


ARMS  OF  SEVILLE. 

Seville  is  most  strongly  recommend- 
ed as  a  spring  residence,  and  may  be 
visited  also  in  the  early  part  of  autumn. 
For  the  summer,  Cadiz,  Valencia,  Pal- 
ma  (Balearic  Isles),  would  suit  better, 
without  mentioning  Ronda  and  Grana- 
da, which,  however,  are  also  better 
suited  for  spring  and  autumn  than 
summer.  This  climate  is  favourable  to 
scrofulous  and  lymphatic  constitutions, 
to  convalescents,  especially  in  the  case 
of  exhaustion  and  prostration  attending 
protracted  fevers,  poorness  of  blood,  and 
where  the  general  system  requires  to  be 
tonified ;  old  and  protracted  coughs 
and  colds,  and  chronic  catarrh,  unat- 
tended by  inflammation.  As  to  con- 
sumption, those  suffering  from  it,  in 
whatever  degree,  except  perhaps  the 
primary  ones  will  do  well  to  avoid  this 


376 


SEVILLR 


exciting  climate.     It  will  benefit '  those 
guffering  from  dyspepsia  of  an  atonic 
character,'  says    Dr.   Lee,    'or  whose 
general  health  is  disordered,  without 
any  definite  local  disease.     There  is  no 
endemic  malady,  though  in  the  en- 
virons,  faubourgs,  and  villages  along 
the  banks  of  the  Guadalquivir,  inter- 
mittent fevers  are  very  general.     The 
water  is  good,  obtained  from  springs  in 
the  limestone  hills  of  Alcala  de  Guad- 
aira,  nine  miles  distant;  an  abundant 

supply. 

Hotels.—  De  Madrid.  A  fine,  large 
house,  with  Dependanee  in  the  Plaza 
Pacffico.  Good  table ;  guides ;  electric 
light;  lift;  sleeping  car  agency ;  prices 
from  12$  pes. 

De  Paris,  in  the  Plaza  Pacifico,  with 
Dependanee  close  by.  Very  good. 
First-rate  table  ;  moderate  charges  ; 
good  guides  ;  the  utmost  civility  and 
attention. 

De  Europa,  Plaza  San  Fernando.  A 
good,  quiet  commercial  house.  From 
8  pes. 

De  Inglaterra,  Plaza  San  Fernando 
13.  Newly  arranged  by  late  manager  of 
Hotel  de  Paris.   Good ;  moderate  prices. 

Peninsula,  on  the  Plaza.  Sunny 
rooms ;  moderate  charges. 

Several  fair  Casas  de  Huespedes : 
La  Provinciana,  Calle  de  Tetuan,  12  ; 
El  Cisne  y  New  York,  Calle  Mendez 
Nunez,  7. 

[N.B. — All  these  rates  are  liable  to 

be  doubled  during  Holy  Week,  and 
special  bargains  should  be  made  before- 
hand with  a  view  to  this,  if  a  sojourn 
over  that  season  be  contemplated.] 
Lodgings. — Houses  to  let. — The  local 

papers  advertise  the  best.  A  good 
Casino;  Caf6s  and  Restaurants. — For 
detailed  information  on  these  and  other 
places  of  resort,  see  p.  414. 

Historical  Notice. — Leaving  aside 
all  the  guess-work  of  pedantic  etymolo- 
gists, who  ascribe  the  origin  of  Seville 
to  Hercules,  Bacchus,  etc,  which  may, 
perhaps,   be   considered    as  so    many 


personifications  of  the  Phoenicians  and 
Chaldseans,  we  must,  nevertheless,  ad- 
mit the  great  antiquity  of  this  city.  If 
we  are  to  believe  A.  Montano,  Bochart, 
and  others,  the  name  is  derived  from 
the  Phoenician  Sephela,  or  Spela,  mean- 
ing a  plain,  and  thus  alluding  to  the 
situation  of  the  town.  The  Greeks 
called  it  Ispola,  converted  into  the 
Roman  Ispalis ;  the  Moors,  Isbbiliah, 
which  finally  became  Sevilla. 

Origin  and  Progress. — Seville  was 
a  prosperous  port  under  the  Phoeni- 
cians, and  shared  with  Cordova  and 
Gadira  (Cadiz)  the  monopoly  of  the 
trade  of  Western  Europe.  Under  the 
Romans,  Bsetica  was  signally  favoured 
by  the  Scipios.  Cordova  became  the 
abode  of  the  aristocracy  of  the  land, 
and  the  repository  of  arts  and  sciences  ; 
and  Cadiz,  then  called  Gades,  a  most 
important  trading  mart.  But  to  Spain, 
whose  fate  it  has  so  often  been  to  be- 
come the  battle-field  of  Europe,  now 
came  Caesar,  and  the  fate  of  the  empire 
was  decided.  After  a  siege  and  a 
battle,  which  took  place  between  the 
actual  Puerta  de  Jerez  and  Arroyo 
Ouadiana  (Caesar's  fleet  lying  betweon 
Torre  del  Oro  and  palace  of  San  Tel- 
mo),  Julius  Ccesar  entered  the  city,  Aug. 
9,  45  B.C.,  a  victory  which  he  considered 
important  enough  to  cause  it  to  be  in- 
scribed on  the  Roman  calender;  and, 
neglecting  Cordova  and  Cadiz,  which 
had  followed  his  rival's  fortunes  and 
party,  he  patronised  this  then  but  little 
important  city,  called  it  Julia  Romulea, 
declared  it  the  head  of  Roman  Bsetica, 
enlarged  it,  strengthened,  rebuilt,  and 
augmented  its  fortifications,  and  by 
grants  and  privileges  made  it  a  favourite 
residence  with  the  patricians  of  Rome, 
several  of  whom  established  themselvea 
here.  Of  its  magnificence  and  pros- 
perity during  the  Roman  rule,  of  which 
Seville  possessed  so  many  splendid 
monuments,  there  are  still  many  ves- 


SEVILLE. 


377 


tiges  left,  such  as  the  aqutduet,  Cafios 
de  Carmona,  a  worthy  rival  of  that  at 
Segovia,  the  ruins  of  Italics,  the  amphi- 
theatre, Santi  Ponce,  statues,  columns, 
coins  dug  up  constantly,  and  portions 
of  the  walls  and  towers.  The  pagan 
religion,  originally  imported  into  Seville 
by  the  traders  of  Tyre,  was  remarkable 
for  certain  rites,  and  especially  the  wor- 
ship of  Venus,  under  the  name  of  Salam- 
bo.  This  particular  worship  spread  from 
Syria  and  Babylonia  to  Egypt  and 
Greece,  but  never  went  further  W.  than 
South  Andalusia,  and  Seville  was  the 
only  city  of  the  western  world  where 
there  were  temples  to  that  deity,  besides 
the  customary  ones  to  the  Sun,  Her- 
cules, Bacchus,  Mars,  etc  The  Adoniae, 
or  Festivals  of  Salambo  (so  called  from 
Adonis),  took  place  in  July,  when,  on 
certain  appointed  days,  the  effigy  of 
Venus  used  to  be  borne  through  the 
city  in  procession  on  the  shoulders  of 
the  noblest  ladies,  whilst  the  people 
followed  weeping,  and  clad  in  mourning, 
in  remembrance  of  the  goddess*  grief 
at  the  loss  of  Adonis.  As  this  statue, 
doubtless  made  of  precious  metals,  was 
one  day  being  carried  through  the 
Barrio  de  Triana,  two  girls,  newly 
converted  to  Christianity,  Justa  and 
her  sister  Rufina,  who  were  selling 
eachemros  (earthenware  vases),  on  the 
passing  of  the  idol  would  not  submit  to 
do  it  reverence,  upon  which  the  bearers 
dropped  the  heavy  burden  among  their 
pots  and  vases,  and  the  incensed  multi- 
tude determined  them  to  death  These 
martyrs  became  the  tutelars  of  Seville, 
and  have  been  as  such  represented  by 
Murillo,  holding  the  Giralda  in  their 
hands. 

The  Silingi  Vandals,  in  the  beginning 
of  6th  century,  made  Seville  their  court 
and  capital,  and  it  continued  to  be  so 
under  the  Goths  from  531  to  584,  when 
San  Hermenegildo  left  Seville,  and, 
after  abjuring  Arianism,  was  condemned 


to  death  by  his  own  father,  and  became 
a  martyr.  The  year  after  the  battle  of 
the  Guadalete,  and  after  one  month's 
siege,  Seville  opened  her  gates  to  the 
Moor,  Abdul-Azis,  who  ruled  over  it 
for  some  time,  and  married  Roderick's 
widow,  Egilona,  whence  dissensions  be- 
gan within  its  walls.  However,  Seville 
continued  to  be  but  a  province  depend- 
ent on  Damascus  until  the  middle  of 
the  8th  century,  when  it  became  the 
spoil  of  the  Ummeyah  family,  who 
held  the  western  khalifate  at  Cordova, 
and  fell  a  prey  to  the  feuds  which 
divided  the  powerful  and  alternately 
successful  tribes  of  the  Almohades  and 
Almoravides.  Under  the  former,  Seville 
became  most  prosperous.  Silk-manu- 
factories (130,000  persons  were  engaged 
in  the  silk  trade)  ;  fabrics  of  all  sorts, 
schools  and  universities,  extensive  trade 
with  the  east  and  south  of  Europe,  all 
contributed  to  making  it  the  most  im- 
portant city  in  Spain,  after  Cordova. 
But  the  defeat  of  the  Almohades  at  Las 
Navas,  the  treason  of  the  rival  Arabic 
races,  and  the  jealousy  of  the  petty 
sheiks,  contributed  to  gradually  pave 
the  way  for  the  Christians.  King  St 
Ferdinand  now  advanced  boldly,  and  at 
the  head  of  the  flower  of  the  nobility  of 
Castile  and  Leon  laid  siege  (1247)  to 
the  city,  which,  after  15  months'  re- 
sistance, surrendered  to  the  Christians, 
who  entered  Dec.  22,  1248.  Of  the 
12,000  Moorish  families  then  inhabiting 
Seville,  many  were  allowed  to  remain, 
but  most  preferred  leaving  it.  With 
them  departed  the  glory  of  Ishbiliah, 
its  arts,  and  learning,  and  refinement 
St.  Ferdinand  distributed  the  land  and 
city  among  his  followers,  an  important 
event  which  is  called  'El  Repaitimiento,' 
and  which,  begun  in  Jan.  1251,  was 
continued  and  concluded  by  Alfonso 
the  Learned,  1252.  Grants  of  lands 
were  bestowed  on  those  who  had  most 
distinguished    themselves,     and    200 


378 


SEVILLE. 


hidalgos  were  chosen  to  found  the  no- 
bility of  Seville.  To  foreigners  were 
allotted  especial  quarters,  whence  the 
present  names  of  Galle  de  Catalines, 
Placentines,  de  Bayona,  Alemanes,  de 
Genoa,  etc.  Each  trade  obtained  a  par- 
ticular portion  of  the  city,  whence  also 
Calle  de  Plateros,  Sederos,  Borceguin- 
eros,  etc.  The  seamen  (gente  de  mar) 
were  lodged  around  the  cathedral,  that 
Sacra  Navis;  the  nobility  lived  close 
to  the  Alcazar ;  the  Jews  inhabited  the 
barrios,  now  called  parroquias  de  Sta, 
Cruz,  Sta.  Maria  la  Blanca,  St.  Bartolo- 
ni6,  etc.  ;  and  the  Moors  were  confined 
betweeen  the  present  parishes  of  S. 
Salvador,  S.  Pedro,  S.  Catalina,  and  S- 
Isidro.  The  fueros  of  Toledo  were 
applied  to  the  administration  of  justice. 
Thus  ended  the  Mussulman's  rule,  which 
had  lasted  536  years  ;  and  to  such  an 
extent  had  its  prosperity  attained,  that 
a  few  days  after  the  surrender  of  the 
city,  400,000  Moors,  Jews,  and  Arabs 
(which  constituted  its  population),  aban- 
doned it 

Ferdinand's  son,  Alfonso,  had  to  en- 
counter many  difficulties,  and  his  own 
son  rebelled  against  his  authority  ;  but 
amid  many  though  partial  defections 
in  his  provinces,  Seville  always  stood 
by  him.  Hence  the  badge  he  granted 
to  this  city  is  seen  everywhere  on  its 
buildings,  and  it  is  called  El  nodo 
(nudo),  and  is  thus  represented  : 
NO.  ©  DO.  (see  page  375)  meaning, 
'  no  m'  ha  (me  ha),  deja-do  (dejado)  ; ' 
'  It  has  not  deserted  me,'  the  figure  in 
the  centre  representing  a  hank  or  skein 
(called  in  Spanish  Madeja.)  Seville 
became  the  court  of  kings,  and  is 
linked  with  the  romantic  but  bloody 
history  of  Don  Pedro  el  Cruel,  and  the 
several  feuds  and  strife  that  continued 
among  the  Christian  sheiks  or  gran- 
dees, Marq.  of  Cadiz,  Medina  Sidonia, 
Niebla,  etc.  It  often  was  the  chosen 
residence  of  the  Catholic  kings,  and 


the  discovery  of  America,  by  making 
it  the  emporium  of  the  world,  revived 
its  former  prosperity.  From  its  port 
sailed  Pizarro,  Columbus,  and  Cortes. 
In  the  15th  century,  Seville  was  the 
court  of  the  merchant  princes  of  that 
wealthy  age.  It  became  the  prey  of 
the  French  in  1808.  Soult,  who  ruled 
its  destinies  for  a  while,  levied  exorbi- 
tant taxes ;  and  the  Spanish  authors 
estimate  the  French  plunder  at  six 
millions  sterling,  not  including  the 
Murillos  that  were  carried  off  to  Paris. 
The  battle  of  Salamanca  delivered 
Seville  from  the  hated  Gaul,  Aug.  17, 
1813.  The  English  entered  it  amid 
enthusiastic  acclamations  and  out- 
bursts of  gratitude. 
General  Description.— 

Fair  is  proud  Seville,  let  her  country  boast 
Her  strength,  her  wealth,  her  site  of  ancient 
days.  Byron. 

The  ponderativo  (boasting)  Sevillanos 

declare  that : — 

Quien  no  ha  visto  Sevilla 
No  ba  visto  maravilla ; 

which  is  a  worthy  pendant  to,  and  quite 
as  accurate  as,  the  rival  Granadino's — 

Quien  no  ha  visto  Granada 
No  ha  visto  nada. 

Seville  is,  beyond  doubt,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  and  most  pleasant 
cities  in  Spain.  Madrid  is  little  else 
than  a  French  town,  on  the  walls  of 
which,  as  on  the  Bordeaux  and  Paris 
shops,  might  be  written, '  aqui  ae  hdbla 
EspafioV  Burgos,  Oviedo,  Leon,  are 
the  true  types  of  the  Gotho-Castdlian 
city  of  mediaeval  times ;  gloomy, 
dull,  windblown,  massive,  and  severe ; 
whilst  Seville  represents  cosmopoli- 
tanism in  all  its  brightness,  elegance, 
vivacity  and  show.  It  makes  thus  a 
very  pretty  and  graceful  picture  framed 
by  verdant  plains,  fringed  with  orange- 
groves,  and  lighted  by  the  glori- 
ous sun  that  shines  on  that  blessed 
land,   *la  tierra  de  Maria  Saniisvma. 


SEVILLE. 


379 


It  was  the  beloved  city  of  the  Moslem 
— the  gold  and  lace  tent  of  the  sensual 
eastern — who  planted  it  on  the  banks 
of  the  Guadalquivir  to  dream  life  away 
amid  the  enchantments  of  refined  taste, 
and  on  which  he  lavished  his  gold  and 
genius  to  adorn,  and  his  blood  to  defend 
and  fortify.  Its  bazaars  were  then  full 
of  the  richest  silks,  in  which  upwards 
of  two  hundred  thousand  persons  were 
employed.  Its  schools,  rivals  in  learn- 
ing of  those  at  Cordova  and  Granada, 
were  frequented  by  the  very  Castilian 
and  Aragonese  princes  whose  fathers 
envied  the  magnificence  of  this  court, 
and  dreaded  the  valour  of  its  armies  ; 
indeed,  when  we  compare  what  Seville 
was  under  the  Goths,  and  would  have 
continued,  probably,  to  be  had  their 
rule  lasted  longer,  to  what  it  became  in 
the  hands  of  the  Moors — not  only  a  city 
of  pleasures  and  the  repository  of  arts, 
but  the  centre  (with  Cordova)  of  Euro- 
pean civilisation — we  cannot  help  de- 
ploring its  fate,  and  that  the  nature  of 
the  legislation  should  have  led  to  the 
ruin  of  their  empire,  which  ushered  in 
its  stead  the  intolerant,  unpractical, 
all-levelling  policy  of  the  covetous, 
tradeless,  and  rude  descendants  of  the 
Goth,  who  squandered  his  energies  in 
fighting  but  too  well  the  battles  of 
the  Vatican.  The  high-bred  courteous 
Moors  passed  away  as  though  they  had 
been  temporary  tenants  of  the  land, 
leaving  Seville  and  all  Andalusia  like  a 
body  suddenly  deprived  of  life. 

Christian  Spain,  strange  to  say,  which 
possessed  within  itself,  for  seven  cen- 
turies, the  best  examples  and  types  of 
Eastern  civilisation,  knew  not  how 
to  assimilate  the  Moorish  system  to  her 
wants  and  spirit,  whilst  other  nations 
of  Europe  who  had  occasion,  during  the 
Crusades,  to  live  in.  close  though  tem- 
porary contact  with  it,  submitted  to  its 
influence,  which  spread  to  their  legisla- 
tion,  trade,   art,   and   even   customs, 


infusing  new  life  and  refinement  But 
that  system  of  centralisation  which  the 
unity  of  religion  applied  to  Spain 
(although  impeded  by  the  natural  con- 
figuration of  the  country  and  the  differ- 
ent history,  race,  and  language  of  the 
various  provinces),  has  not  ceased  to  be, 
from  those  times  to  the  present  day,  the 
golden  dream  of  statesmen,  and  was  the 
death-blow  to  the  prosperity  of  Seville, 
and  a  continual  obstacle  to  the  develop- 
ment of  the  resources  of  the  country  at 
large.  A  revival,  however,  may  now 
be  expected  under  the  modern  regime 
of  railways,  etc. 

The  climate,  soil,  and  situation  of 
Seville  are  admirable,  and  its  future 
prosperity  on  this  account  alone  is  very 
encouraging,  for  it  is  placed  in  a  most 
fertile  extensive  plain  on  the  banks  of 
a  large  navigable  river,  which  requires 
only  a  few  works  to  prevent  future 
inundations  and  widen  the  embouchure. 
Within  a  few  hours  from  the  ocean,  on 
the  passage  of  all  the  trade  between  the 
East,  Italy,  and  northern  Europe,  it 
already  ranks  among  the  most  import- 
ant commercial  cities  in  Spain.  The 
principal  articles  of  export  are  oranges, 
oil,  lead,  copper,  liquorice,  woollens, 
and  cork,  principally  sent  to  England, 
France,  and  Belgium ;  and  oil,  olives, 
garbanzos,  and  pastas,  maccaroni,  etc., 
to  Cuba  and  Porto  Rico.  The  imports 
consist  of  woollens,  silks,  cottons,  and 
other  spun  articles;  tin,  hardware, 
cloths,  and  fine  linen  from  England ; 
common  linen,  drugs,  and  spices  from 
France ;  cheese  and  butter  from  Ham- 
burg; wood  and  cod-fish  from  Sweden; 
sugar  and  cocoa  from  America ;  cinna- 
mon, sugar,  pepper,  tea,  silk  shawls, 
and  other  articles  from  China  and  the 
Filipinas.  It  is  connected  to  the  capi- 
tal by  railway,  and  communicates  with 
the  Mediterranean  ports  of  Malaga  and 
Alicante.  It  contains  some  of  the  most 
celebrated  works  of  human  genius  in  its 


380 


SEVILLE. 


churches,  galleries,  and  libraries,  and 
abounds  in  novel  and  charming  cos- 
tumes and  vestiges  of  bygone  times. 
The  city  rises  822  ft.  (Spanish)  above  the 
sea,  and  lies  principally  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Guadalquivir  (the  Wada-1-Kebir 
or  great  river  of  the  Moor ;  Len  Baro, 
of  the  Spanish  gipsies ;  and  the  Romans' 
Bsetis).  This  river  seperates  the  city 
proper  from  its  barrio  of  Triana,  the 
exclusive  quarter  of  the  gipsies  and 
lower  orders.  The  narrow  winding 
lanes  (misnamed  Calles)  present  a  puz- 
ding  intricacy,  numbering  upwards  of 
477,  and  spreading  over  the  surface  of 
the  city  like  the  arterial  system  in  the 
human  body,  and  of  which  the  Plaza 
de  la  Encarnacion  would  be  the  heart 
These  long  corridors,  cool  and  shady  in 
summer,  are,  with  a  few  exceptions, 
admirably  paved,  purposely  so,  we 
should  hope,  to  rest  the  tiny  foot  of  the 
Sevillana,  who — 

Con  primor  so  calza  el  pie* 
Digno  de  regio  tapiz. 

The  Sevillanas  are  the  prettiest  type 
of  Andalusian  beauty,  and  exhibit  the 
deep  blue-black  eyes,  sometimes  ador- 
milados,  and  at  others  full  of  fire  ;  each 
hpiiflalada;  small  foreheads,  and  raven 
hair,  long  and  silky,  which  they  might 
almost  turn  by  night  into  a  balmy  soft 
pillow,  and  a  long  flowing  mantilla  by 
day.  They  possess,  moreover,  a  pecu- 
liar meneo,  sal,  and  indescribable  charm, 
naturalness,  and  grace  in  every  move- 
ment, together  with  a  manner  full  of 
liveliness  and  repartee.  Dress,  the 
bull-fight,  Verdi's  operas,  and  pelar  la 
pava,  are  the  objects  of  her  existence ; 
and  she  is  worthy  of  all  the  flares  that 
fall  from  the  passer-by,  of  the  gallant 
vwjo  and  strolling  estudiante. 

£1  dia  que  tu  naciste 
Nacieron  todas  las  flores, 
Y  en  la  pila  del  bautismo 
Cantaron  los  ruiseilores. 


Los  cipreses  de  tu  casa 
Estan  vestidos  de  luto, 

Y  es  porque  no  tienen  flores, 
Que  ofrecerte  por  tributo. 

£1  naranjo  de  tu  patio, 
Cuando  te  acercas  a  el, 
Se  desprende  de  sus  flores, 

Y  te  las  echa  a  los  pie's. 

Tu  cuerpo  parece  un  junco, 
Tu  cabeza  una  naranja, 
Tu  pecho  un  jardin  de  flores, 
Donde  descansa  mi  alma. 

Toma  alii  mi  corazon, 
Metetelo  en  el  corpiSo, 

Y  arrullalo  como  un  nino 
Que  llora  y  tiene  razon. 

Seville  may  be  said  to  be  still  the 
city  of  the  guitar,  the  fan,  the  song,  and 
fandango  ;  the  ne  plus  ultra  and  zeviya 
mia  of  the  majo  and  bull-fighter,  of 
the  gipsy  and  contrabandist  j  the  ren- 
dezvous of  the  most  picturesque  black- 
guards in  the  south  of  Spain,  whose 
beds  are  the  steps  of  churches,  and  who 
lounge  and  hang  about  the  suburban 
tabernas,  breakfast  on  a  glass  of  water, 
and  dine  on  an  air  on  the  guitar,  argue 
among  each  other  with  the  navaja  and 
other  such  arguments  of  point ;  make 
love  to  their  neighbour's  pocket,  and 
know  of  heaven  what  they  see  of  it 
through  the  golden  juice  of  an  orange, 
as  they  lie  on  their  backs  in  the  cool 
shade,  a  picture  of  contentment  and 
sweet  idleness.  The  town  has  pre- 
served more  of  the  character  of  the  16th 
and  17th  centuries  than  of  the  Moorish 
period,  of  which,  however,  many  ves- 
tiges remain.  This  is  shown  in  the 
style  of  the  private  houses  of  the  no- 
bility, the  general  appearance  of  the 
edifices,  etc.,  which  all  exhibit  the  in- 
fluence of  Italian  taste,  and  its  happy 
combination  with  the  Moorish  style. 
The  people  themselves  seem  to  have 
lost  that  grave,  solemn,  stern,  and 
melancholy  mood  of  the  Spaniard  of 
the  15th  century,  which  he  inherited 


SEVILLE. 


381 


from  the  Moors,  and  to  retain  only 
that  gay,  brilliant  capa  y  espada,  devil- 
may-care  humour  of  the  17th  century 
in  Spain,  coupled  with  the  more  sombre 
types  of  the  inquisitorial  and  inquisi- 
tioned,  somewhat  suspicious,  jealous, 
and  haughty  spirit  of  Lope  de  Rueda, 
Calderon's,  and  Vega's  dramas.  Seville 
is  still  in  many  points  the  city  of  plea- 
sure and  love,  of  Beaumarchais  and 
Rossini's  Barbi&re. 

The  houses  are  superior  to  those  of 
the  rest  of  Andalusian  cities,  in  style 
and  appearance ;  they  are  generally  of 
two  or  three  storeys,  gaily  painted  out- 
side, with  lofty  rooms,  numerous  rejas, 
charming  patios  or  inner  courts,  which, 
during  the  summer,  are  covered  with 
an  awning,  and  furnished  with  pianos, 
sofas,   etc.,   for  the  evening  tertulia, 
when  the  whole  town  is  converted  into 
a  vast  /drawing-room.    They  are,  more- 
over, decorated   with  brightly-painted 
and  gilt  miradores,  which,  with  their 
glass  and  flowers,  look  like  conserva- 
tories suspended.    A  lengthened  resi- 
dence will  be  found  more  pleasant  here 
than  anywhere  else  in  Spain.     There  is 
a  great  deal  to  see,  and  several  days 
will  be  necessary  to  carry  away  some 
definite  impression  of  the  town  and  its 
contents.     The  cathedral,  which  some 
consider  —  perhaps    not    upon    strict 
art  principles — the  finest  in  Europe; 
Ihe  Alcazar,    that    splendid    Moorish 
rival  of  the  Alhambra  ;  the  exquisite 
Giralda,  the  best  specimen  of  the  kind 
extant ;  the  Museo,   La  Caridad,  and 
other    churches,    which    contain    the 
masterpieces  of  the  Sevillian  painters, 
Murillo,  Las  Roelas,  Zurbaran,  Herrera, 
etc.;  the  ruins  of  Italica,   the  birth- 
place of  the  Roman  Emperors  Adrian, 
Trajan,  and  Theodosius ;  the  Colum- 
bine  library,    and    Indian    archives, 
which  contain  treasures    almost    un- 
known, and  as  yet  but  imperfectly  in- 
vestigated ;     Triana,    and   its   gipsy 


dances  and  costumes  ;  the  semana  santa 
(Holy  Week),  functions  which  are  re- 
sorted to  from  all  parts  of  Spain,  and 
rank  next  to  those  at  Rome,  in  the 
magnificence  of  the  pageant ;  those  also 
of  the  Carpus,  St.  John's  day,  and 
Noche  de  Navidady  equally  full  of  inte- 
rest, and  on  a  large  scale.  Such  are 
the  sights  and  prospects  which  greet 
the  traveller.  There  is  besides  no  lack 
of  amusements,  although  on  a  very 
limited  scale.  The  list  is  not  long,  and 
consists  of  the  very  gay  and  striking 
ferias  of  Mairena  and  Italica,  masque- 
rading at  Christmas  time,  excellent 
theatres,  very  well  attended,  and  the 
bull-fights,  the  most  celebrated  in  An- 
dalusia. There  is  some  society  in 
winter,  a  few  balls  and  animated  ter- 
tulia8t  where  the  stranger  meets  with  a 
cordial    welcome.      Formerly,    before 

the  death  of  the  late  Duke  de  Mont- 
pensier,  the  palace  of  San  Telmo 
was  a  centre  of  Sevillian  life  and 
hospitality,  retaining  several  of  the 
nobility  in  their  large  and  hand- 
some houses.  The  promenades  are  not 
very  varied,  but  if  the  roads  were 
better,  there  would  be  some  pleasant 
drives  in  the  environs.  The  casino  is 
good,  and  of  easy  access  to  foreigners. 
The  doctors,  no  longer  Chevaliers  de  la 
Lancette,  follow  and  apply  the  doc- 
trines of  the  French  and  English 
schools,  and  have  renounced  all  con- 
nection with  Dr.  Sangrado.  Living  is 
cheap  ;  the  markets  well  supplied,  and 
from  the  proximity  to  Cadiz  and  Gib- 
raltar, English  comforts,  books,  etc., 
are  easily  procured. 

To  all  matter-of-fact  tourists,  who 
travel  to  take  the  height  of  other 
countries'  civilisation  by  the  meridian 
of  their  own,  who  carry  with  them, 
wherever  they  go,  their  prejudices  and 
home,  just  as  the  snail  does  its  shell, 
Seville  must  indeed  appear  a  back- 
ward city,  with  no  end  of  desiderata  -; 


382 


SEVILLE. 


but  to  those,  on  the  contrary,  who  (as 
Lady  Hester  Stanhope  said  to  Chateau- 
briand, '  L'Europe  ennnie')  seek  novel 
scenes  amid  novel  climes  and  peoples, 
this  is  a  new  world,  the  promised  land 
of  the  artist  and  invalid,  where  to  fed 
existence  is  a  blessing  in  itself,  and 
where  the  aspect  of  earth  and  sky  glad- 
dens the  heart  and  quickens  the  blood. 
In  the  picture-gallery  of  a  traveller's  life, 
the  tableau  of  Seville  will  be  hung  side 
by  side  with  that  of  Granada,  Naples, 
Florence,  Constantinople,  and  other 
sunlit  scenes.  Visit  it,  therefore,  with 
a  mind  disposed  to  welcome  poetical 
impressions  and  day-dreams.  Walk 
through  its  suburbs,  amid  the  antique 
groups  of  its  gipsies,  and  the  types 
which  Murillo  loved  to  reproduce. 
Examine  its  churches,  and  scorn  not 
the  piety  of  those  bygone  generations 
who  reared  and  adorned  such  gorgeous 
structures. 

Sight-seeing.  Churches. — The  Ca- 
thedral, La  Caridad,  San  Isidoro,  San 
Miguel,  Sta.  Maria  la  Blanca,  the  monas- 
tery of  Sta.  Paula,  etc.  Public  Buildings. 
Town  Hall  (Casas  Consistoriales),  Lonja 
or  Consulado  (the  Exchange),  Fabrica  de 
Tabaca,  Palace  of  San  Telmo,  Picture- 
Galleries,  Libraries,  etc.  Private  Edi- 
faes. —  Casa  de  Pilatos,  Casa  de  los 
Taveras,  etc.  Moorish  Edifices: — The 
Alcazar,  the  Giraldar,  Moorish  houses, 
etc.  Roman  Antiquities.  —  Italica, 
Bafios  de  Carmona,  walls,  etc.  Prout- 
bits,  streets,  squares,  fountains. 

©tie  Gatfteftral*  is  built  on  the  site  of  a 

*  This  description  of  the  great  cathedral 
of  Seville  represents  the  building  and  its 
accessories  as  it  was,  and  as  it  is  hoped 
that  it  will  once  more  be  when  fully 
restored.  It  was  badly  damaged  by  the 
earthquakes  of  1884  and  by  sundry 
previous  minor  shakings,  and  has  ever 
since  been  in  the  hands  of  the  restorer. 
In  August  1888  still  further  serious 
damage  became  apparent  than  had  been 
suspected — a   large  portion  of  the  S. 


Temple  to  Venus  Salambo  which  was 
converted  into  a  Christian  church — the 
Basilica  de  San  Vicente,  which  in  turn 
was  supplanted  by  a  splendid  mosqut 
after  the  model  of  that  at  Cordova,  and 
burnt  down  by  the  Normans.  A  new 
one  was  begun  by  the  Emir  Yusuf  in 
1184,  A.O.  The  belfry  was  erected  by 
his  son  Yakub-Al-Mansour.  Whether 
the  cloister  del  Lagarto  (crocodile  or 
lizard),  and  the  external  wall  (towards 
N.)  of  Patio  de  los  Naranjos,  belong  to 
the  first  or  last  built  mosque  is  not 
easy  to  ascertain.  Some  think  they  are 
of  a  style  anterior  to  that  introduced  by 
the  Ahnohades.  This  latter  mosque 
was  converted  by  St  Ferdinand  into  a 
cathedral ;  Gothic  chapels,  choirs,  etc., 
were  built  up.  The  ground-plan  of 
this  strange  and  probably  most  effective 
display  of  the  Moorish  and  Gothic 
styles  was  in  the  possession  of  Philip  II. , 
and  burnt  in  the  great  fire  which  de- 
stroyed the  Madrid  palace.  Latin  and 
Arabic  schools  were  established  in  this 
cathedral,  and  here  Lebrija  held  his 
Escuela  de  Latinidad.  The  cathedral 
thus  lasted  till  1480.  The  old  edifice, 
often  repaired  and  altered,  threatening 
now  ruin,  was  pulled  down.  The 
chapter  assembled  in  July  8,  1401,  de- 
cided on  erecting  a  church  'so  large 
and  beautiful, '  said  they,  'that  coming 
ages  may  proclaim  us  mad  to  have  un- 
dertaken it'  The  expenses  were  de- 
frayed by  the  generous  Capitulares 
themselves,  aided  not  a  little  by  the 
alms  wrung  from  the  people  by  means 
of  indulgences  published  everywhere  in 
the  kingdom.    Of  the  former  buildings 

aisle  and  transept  falling  down,  and 
nearly  destroying  Jorge  Bosch's  fine 
organ  (see  p.  385).  Now  only  parts  of 
the  cathedral  can  be  visited,  and  it  will 
be  long  ere  a  thorough  restoration  can  be 
carried  out  To  see  the  jewels,  tesoro, 
etc.,  apply  to  the  Sacristan  Mayor.  The 
Royal  Chapel  has  a  special  sacristan,  who 
will  show  it     Small  fees  are  expected. 


1 


SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


383 


nothing  was  left  save  the  Giralda, 
Court  of  the  Oranges,  and  the  KE. 
and  W.  porticos,  and  the  grees  outside 
and  all  round,  which  were  put  up  in 

1395  by  Archbishop  Mena,  with  a  view 
to  do  away  with  the  booths  and  shops 
that  blocked  the  edifice  on  all  sides,  as 
was  then  everywhere  the  case.  The 
high  chapel  was  also  left,  and  was 
pulled  down  only  in  1432.  Who  was 
the  architect  ?  Some  conjecture  it  must 
have  been  Alfonso  Martinez,   who  in 

1 396  was  Maestro  Mayor  of  the  chapter : 
others  say  it  could  have  been  Pero 
Garcia,  who  filled  that  same  office  in 
1 421.  Juan  Norman  directed  the  works 
1462-72;  Juan  de  Hoz  or  Hoees,  1488  ; 
Alfonso  Ruiz,  1506  ;  and  the  first  stone 
was  laid  in  1402,  and  the  last,  Decem- 
ber 1506,  the  Archbishops  then  being 
Alfonso  Rodriguez  and  Gonzalo  deRojas. 
The  roof  of  the  Crucero  and  portions  of 
it  crumbled  down  shortly  after,  and 
were  repaired  and  completed  1519  by 
the  celebrated  Juan  Gil  de  Hontanon. 

Style — Aspect. — The  general  style 
of  the  edifice  is  the  Gothic  of  the  best 
period  in  Spain,  and  though  many  of 
its  parts  belong  to  different  styles,  yet 
these  form  but  accessary  parts,  and  the 
main  body  inside  remains  strictly 
Gothic.  The  Revival,  Plateresque, 
Graeco-Roman  specimens  in  this  cathe- 
dral are  equally  models  mi  generis. 
Indeed,  all  the  arts,  and  each  in  turn 
at  their  acme  of  strength,  seem  to  have 
combined  so  as  to  produce  their  finest 
effect  here.  The  Moorish  Giralda,  the 
Gothic  cathedral,  the  Graeco-Roman 
exterior,  produce  variety  and  repose  to 
the  eye.  Inside,  its  numerous  paintings 
are  by  some  of  the  greatest  painters  ; 
the  stained  glass  among  the  finest  spe- 
cimens known  ;  the  sculpture  beautiful ; 
the  jeweller's  work  and  silversmith's 
unrivalled  in  composition,  execution, 
and  intrinsic  value.  The  Cathedral  of 
Leon  charms  us  by  the  chaste  elegance 


of  its  airy  structure,  and  the  purity  of 
its  harmonious  lines  ;  the  fairy-worked 
cimborio  of  that  of  Burgos,  its  filigree 
spires  and  pomp  of  ornamentation,  are 
certainly  most  striking ;  and  at  Toledo 
we  feel  humbled  and  crushed  beneath 
the  majesty  and  wealth  displayed  every- 
where ;  but  when  w^  enter  the  cathe- 
dral of  Seville,  the  first  impression  is 
that  of  solemn  awe  and  reverence. 
There  is  a  sublimity  in  those  sombre 
masses  and  clusters  of  spires,  whose  pro- 
portions and  details  are  somewhat  lost 
and  concealed  in  the  mysterious  sha- 
dows which  pervade  the  whole — a  gran- 
deur which  kindles  up  dormant  feelings, 
quickens  the  sense,  and  makes  our  very 
heart  throb  within  us  when  we  stand  as 
lost  among  the  lofty  naves  and  count- 
less gilt  altars.  Vast  proportions, 
unity  of  design  followed  in  the  main 
body  of  the  interior,  severity,  sobriety 
of  ornamentation,  and  that  simplicity 
unalloyed  by  monotony  which  stamps 
all  the  works  of  real  genius— render  this 
one  of  the  noblest  piles  ever  raised  to  God 
by  man,  however  one  may  feel  inclined 
to  carp  at  poor  detail  and  accessories. 

Exterior. — The  square  pile  which 
comprises  the  Cathedral,  Sagrario, 
Chapter  and  offices,  Giralda,  and  Court 
of  Oranges,  rises  on  a  platform,  with  a 
broad  paved  terrace  running  all  round 
and  ascended  by  steps.  The  pillars 
belonged  to  Roman  temples  and  the 
previous  mosque.  The  form  of  the 
cathedral  itself  is  an  oblong  square, 
thus  preserving  the  primitive  basilica 
form  of  the  mosque,  and  its  area  mea- 
sures 398  ft  (Spanish)  E.  to  W.,  and 
291  ft.  N.  to  S.  not  including  the  apse 
of  the  Royal  Chapel,  the  Court  of 
Oranges,  Offices  and  Chapter,  which 
are  built  outside  to  the  S.  There  are 
nine  entrances,  of  different  styles, 
period,  and  beauty.  The  principal 
facade  is  to  tlie  W.,  but  it  was  not  com- 
pleted until  1827,  and  is  very  inferior 


384 


SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


to  the  rest.      The   most   remarkable 
portals  are :  Puerta  del  Lagarto  (N.), 
which  forms  part  of  the  cloisters  of  the 
earlier  cathedral,  so  called  from  the 
crocodile  which  is  placed  here.     This 
was  sent  to  St.  Ferdinand  by  the  Sultan 
of  Egypt  amongst  other  curious  animals, 
many  of  which  died  on  the  way,  and 
were  stuffed  and  placed  in  the  cloisters.* 
In  the  W.  or  principal  facade  there 
are  three  doors,  ogival  in  style,  and 
fine     specimens     of    the     beginning 
of   15th    century.      That    of    centre 
was  left  unfinished  till  1827,  and  then 
completed  in  a  very  inferior  manner. 
The  two  lateral  ones  are  richly  deco- 
rated with  open  work.     Observe  the 
excellent  terra-cotta  statues  and  relievo 
figures  (1548)  by  Lope  Marin.      The 
door  called  de  San  Miguel,  to  right, 
has  a  relievo  representing  the  Nativity 
of  Christ,  and  on  the  sides  full-sized 
statues,  the  other  one  has  also  a  relievo 
representing  the  Baptism  of  St.  John. 
In  the  E.  facade  are  two  fine  portals 
ornamented  with  a  profusion  of  statues 
of  angels,  patriarchs,  and  prophets,  and 
with  terra-cotta  relievos  representing 
the  Adoration  of  Kings,  and  Entrance 
to  Jerusalem.     The  portals  correspond- 
ing to  the  extremities  of  the  transept  are 
unfinished.    In  the  N.  facade  there  are 


*  Churches  in  the  8th  and  9th  centuries  were 
often  little  else  but  a  museum  of  natural  his- 
tory, works  of  vertu  and  curiosities  (Anastasio 
Bibliotecario,  in  Leon  IV.,  chron.  of  S.  Fer- 
dinand, D.  Alfonso,  and  Sancho.  Seville  1567, 
cap.  9,  fol.  5.  Alvar  Gut.  de  Toledo,  '  Suma- 
rio  de  las  Cosas  Maravillosas  del  Mundo,'  fol. 
47,  Byote,  Soribay,  etc.)  Here  are  besides  an 
elephant's  tooth  weighing  2^  arrobas,  and  the 
first  asistente  of  Seville's  wand,  and  a  bit,  said 
to  be  that  of  Babieca,  the  Cid's  steed.  When 
this  cloister  was  whitewashed  in  1694  all  the 
nottcias  or  information  that  could  be  obtained 
on  these  curiosidades  were  placed  in  the  croco- 
dile's body  and  within  the  tooth.  See  about  all 
'bis  and  the  older  cathedral,  Canon  Loaysa's 
'Memorias  Sepulcrales  de  esta  Sta.  Iglesias, 
etc. ;  MS.  at  the  Columbine  library. 


two  portals ;  one,  the  largest  of  the  two, 
leads  to  the  chapel  of  El  Sagrario  or 
parish    church.    It    is    Graeco-Roman 
in  style,  and  with  Corinthian  columns. 
The  Portal  de  los  Karanjos,  and  also 
'  del  Perdon, '  leads  to  Court  of  Oranges, 
where  there  were  formerly  many  more 
fountains.    The  high  horse-shoe  door  is 
Moorish,   and  also*  the  bronze  doors. 
This  specimen  of  Mudejar  style  was 
built  by  order  of  Alfonso  XL,  about 
1340.  The  statues  represent  SS.  Peter 
and    Paul,    and   Annunciation  ;    the 
basso-relievo  in  the  tympanum,  Mer- 
chants expelled  from  the  Temple,  pro- 
bably allusive  to  the  merchants  who 
used  to  assemble  before  its   erection 
within  the  court ;  the  external  wall  is 
part  of  the  early  mosque,  and  termi- 
nated with  the  Moorish  indented  or 
bearded  parapet     Most  of  the  portals 
are  prior  to  the  reign  of  Charles  V. 
The  belfry  is  modern  and  the  terra- 
cotta statues  by  Miguel   Florentin— 
(1519-22).     'The  Saviour  bearing  the 
Cross '  is  by  Luis  de  Vargas,  but  re- 
painted.     This  entered,  the   Sagraric 
lies  to  our  right,  in  front  the  cathedral, 
and  on  the  left  the  graceful  Giralda  (p. 
410).  The  fountain  in  the  middle  was  the 
original  one  used  by  the  Moslems  for 
their  ablutions.     The  two  sides  of  the 
court  only  remain.     To  the  left  is  a 
stone  pulpit  where  St.  Francis  Ferrer 
has  preached.     In  the  corner  to  the 
left  is  a  staircase  leading  to  the  famous 
Columbine    Library,   (see    Libraries). 
The  walls  outside  are  decorated  in  the 
Graco-Roman  style.    Observe  the  ex- 
terior of  the  chapel  of  San  Fernando, 
of  semi-circular  form,  plateresque,  as  is 
also  the  balustraded  outside  of  the  Con- 
taduria  (chapter  counting-house).    The 
projecting  sides  of  the  transept  and 
buttresses  along  the  lateral  walls,  the 
airy  flying  buttresses  springing  from 
one  nave  to  another  with  their  open 
work,  the  richly -decorated  pinnacles, 


SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL 


385 


Berruguete  pillarets,  domes,  etc.,  give 
great  variety,  but  doubtful  beauty,  to 
the  external  aspect  of  the  edifice. 

Interior. — The  interior  bears  stamped 
in  its  structure  a  harmony  and  unity  of 
design  which  result  from  the  same 
style  prevailing  throughout,  and  the 
original  plan  being  followed  every- 
where. It  is  divided  into  seven  naves, 
the  two  lateral  railed  off  for  chapels 
all  around,  and  numbering  37.  The 
central  nave  is  no  less  than  134  ft. 
high,  the  lateral  ones  96  ft.  (Spanish), 
and  the  transept  dome  or  cimborio  158 
ft.  The  latter  is  59  ft  broad.  The 
lateral  aisles  are  39 }  ft.  broad.  The 
roof  is  divided  into  68  compartments, 
domes,  or  bovedas,  supported  by  36 
isolated  piers,  15  ft.  diameter ;  around 
them  are  grouped  shafts,  slender,  thin, 
and  light,  like  so  many  reeds  around 
an  oak-trunk,  and  terminating  in  slen- 
der palm  branches  blending  gently 
with  each  other  to  form  the  vaulting 
ribs.  Over  the  arches  of  the  chapels, 
and  from  the  base  of  the  higher  domes, 
a  clerestory  with  open-work  parapet 
runs  all  round  the  aisles.  93  windows, 
painted,  and  of  good  style,  and  divided 
by  pillarets,  interlaced  archlets,  etc., 
light  up  the  whole.  The  pavement, 
made  of  chequered  black-and-white 
marble,  was  laid  in  1793,  and  cost  up- 
wards of  £30,000.  The  choir  sadly 
blocksup  the  centre  portion  of  the  church, 
thus  diminishing  the  general  effect. 
There  was  once  a  talk  of  removing  it, 
and  making  a  large  street  just  opposite 
to  central  nave  whence  high  mass 
would  have  been  seen,  if  not  heard. 
There  is  the  greatest  simplicity  of 
detail  about  the  pillars,  shafts,  capi- 
tals, etc.,  and  the  eye  can  freely  em- 
brace the  whole,  and  follow  every  linea- 
ment without  interruption.  The  groin- 
ing is  partly  plain,  partly  florid.  Un- 
fortunately the  building  suffers  chronic 
damage  by  earthquake,  and  is  now  in 


course  of  restoration.     It  was  slightly 
shaken  again  in  the  winter  of  1884. 

Ferd.  Columbus'  MonwnerU.  —  On 
entering  by  the  W.  facade,  in  the  pave- 
ment, is  a  plain  marble  slab,  bearing 
an  inscription  to  the  memory  of  Fer- 
nando, second  son  of  Christopher 
Columbus,  a  man  of  learning  and 
piety,  who  bequeathed  his  library,  La 
Colombina,  to  the  Chapter,  and  his 
ashes  to  this  cathedral  he  loved  so 
well.  (Ob.  1540  or  1541.)  As  he  was 
dying,  he  cast  dust  over  his  head,  and 
said  humbly  '  Memento  homo,  quia  * 
puivis  es,  et  in  pulverem  reverteris/ 
Public  opinion,  that  weathercock,  turn- 
ing once  more  in  favour  of  Columbus, 
occasioned  a  funeral  equal  to  that  of  a 
king.  Observe  the  caravellas  ;  those 
fragile  small  ships  with  which  the  new 
world  was  discovered,  or  rather  found 
anew,  and  of  which  there  are  curious 
models  at  the  Madrid  Naval  Museum. 
On  the  slab  is  the  well-known  motto, 
'  a  Castilla  y  a  Leon,  mundo  nuevo 
dio  Colon.  ' 

Trascoro  or  Reredos. — Of  Doric  style 
and  precious  marbles.  The  picture 
over  the  altar  is  of  14th  century,  re- 
paired and  signed  by  Anton  Perez 
about  1548.  The  picture  of  San  Fer- 
nando is  by  Pacheco,  1633 ;  indifferent. 
The  four  bassi-relievi  came  from  and 
were  executed  at  Genoa,  with  subjects 
from  scripture.  The  organs  are  chur- 
rigueresque  in  style ;  that  to  the  left 
was  made  in  1792  by  Jorge  Bosch ;  it 
contains  5300  pipes  and  110  stops — 
more  than  that  of  Haarlem ;  its  tone 
is  very  fine ;  that  on  right  is  quite 
modern,  by  one  Verdalonga,  and  has 
140  stops,  but  is  inferior  to  the  former. 
(Spaniards  are  not  a  musical  people, 
and  prefer  orchestras  in  their  churches, 
and  playing  operas  and  polkas,  to  the 
more  appropriate  but  graver  and  penr 
sive  sound  of  the  deep-toned  sacred 
O 


386 


SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


music  of  organs.')  The  Respaldos  del 
Coro  are  worthy  of  some  attention,  not 
so  much  for  their  elegant  plateresque 
chapel  of  San  Agustin,  as  for  the 
beautifully -executed  Virgin  by  Mon- 
tanes.  The  sweet  expression,  delicate 
girlish  hands,  the  admirable  modelling, 
all  render  it  the  masterpiece  of  that 
great  Sevillian  sculptor. 

Choir. — Is  under  the  4th  and  5th 
boveda  of  the  central  nave ;  enclosed 
on  all  sides,  being  walled  in  on  all  ex- 
cept that  towards  the  altar,  from  which 
it  is  railed  in  by  a  superb  reja,  a 
magnificent  specimen  of  the  plateresque 
1518,  designed  by  Sancho  Mufioz.  The 
subjects  are  prophets,  kings,  and  Christ's 
temporal  generation.  The  choir  is  com- 
posed of  two  rows  of  stalls,  127  in  all, 
including  the  archbishop's ;  the  carving 
was  begun  by  Nufro  Sanchez,  1475, 
continued  by  Dancart,  1479,  and 
finished  by  Guillen,  1548.  The  style  is 
Gothic  ;  the  friezes  are  filled  with  sub- 
jects from  the  Scriptures  and  fantastical 
animals  admirably  composed,  the  whole 
work  being  crowned  with  a  prolongated 
canopied  cornice,  decorated  with  turrets, 
statuettes  in  open-worked  niches,  leaves, 
fruit,  etc.  The  prelate's  stall  is  still 
more  richly  ornamented,  and  a  few  on 
its  sides  also.  The  reclinatorio  is  by 
Guillen,  and  is  not  Gothic.  It  is,  as  a 
French  author  says,  an  'immense  et 
minutieux  travail  qui  confond  l'imagi- 
nation,  et  ne  peut  plus  se  comprendre 
de  nos  jours ;'  and  we  may  be  allowed  to 
apply  to  them  Pugin's  criticism  on  those 
of  Lincoln  (though  these  are  of  the  late 
Decorated,  and  in  our  opinion  very  in- 
ferior in  power  of  composition): — 'They 
are  executed  in  the  most  perfect  man- 
ner, not  only  as  regards  variety  and 
beauty  of  ornamental  design,  but  in 
accuracy  of  workmanship,  which  is 
frequently  deficient  in  ancient  styles  of 
woodwork.'  The  lectern  is  a  master- 
piece of  Bartolome  Morel,  1570,  thefinest 


Revival  specimen  in  the  cathedral,  with 
his  Tenebrario,  after  d'Arfe's  Custodia. 
The  atril,  or  bookstand,  is  full  of  bassi- 
relievi,  allegorical  and  female  figures, 
somewhat  out  of  keeping  with  the  place. 
The  lectern  rests  on  a  Doric  support, 
with  pillarets  and  bronze  statues,  and 
the  summit  is  formed  by  a  miniature 
tabernacle  or  templete,  with  statues  of 
Virgin  and  Christ  Crucified.  The 
choral  books  are  fine  and  of  enormous 
size.  The  illuminations  are  by  Sanchez, 
the  Ortas,  Fadilla  and  Diego  del  Salto, 
1516  to  end  of  16th  century  ;  some  also 
are  ascribed  to  Julio  del  Labio. 

High  Chapel  amd  Altar. — The  pulpits 
and  the  reja  principal,  or  central  rail- 
ing, are  by  the  Dominican  friar  Fran- 
cisco de  Salamanca,  begun  in  1518, 
aided  by  his  pupil,  Antonio  de  Palen- 
cia,  who  finished  them  1533,  and  made 
the  steps  of  that  on  the  right  of  the  altar, 
decorating  them  with  scenes  from  the 
Apocalypse  and  the  statuettes  of  Evan- 
gelists. The  lateral  rejas  were  designed 
by  Sancho  Muiioz,  who  began  them  1518, 
and  were  finished  by  Diego  de  Ydrobo, 
1523 ;  they  rest  on  Gothic  antepechos 
balustraded.  They  are  all  admirably 
executed.  The  high  altar  is  ascended 
by  steps.  The  retablo  mayor  is  Gothic, 
and  divided  into  forty-four  compart- 
ments, filled  with  carvings  referring  to 
scenes  from  Scripture  and  life  of  the 
Virgin.  It  is  the  masterpiece  of  Dan- 
cart,  designed  1482,  finished  in  1550. 
It  is  considered  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  beautiful  retablos  in  the  world. 
The  execution  does  not  readily  corre- 
spond with  the  general  composition, 
but  the  effect  is  very  grand.  It  is 
all  of  Alerce  pine-wood.  The  silver 
works,  atriles,  frontage,  etc.,  are  by  Al- 
faro.  Between  the  retablo  and  respaldos 
of  high  chapel  is  a  dark  space  called 
Sacristia  Alta.  The  artesonado  ia 
fine.  Observe  the  double  folding  Moor- 
ish door,  with  Gothic  inscription.    Thfr 


SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


387 


door  is  said  to  have  belonged  to  the 
former  cathedral:  here  are  kept  the 
Tobias  Alfonsinas,  not  the  astronomical 
ones  (for  which  see  Alcald  de  ITenares), 
but  a  reliquary,  enriched  with  precious 
stones  and  cameos,  brought  from  Con- 
stantinople to  Paris,  and  considerably 
decorated  by  Alfonso,  St  Ferdinand's 
son.  The  relievi  are  in  the  transition 
style  of  Byzantine  to  Gothic.  The 
respaldos,  or  back  of  high  altar,  by 
Gonzalo  de  Rojas,  1522,  are  a  very  fine 
specimen  of  florid  Gothic,  and  abound 
in  statues  of  terra  cotta,  representing 
saints,  bishops,  martyrs,  etc.,  under  fili- 
gree open-worked  canopies.  It  is  one 
of  the  best  specimens  of  the  Gothic  of 
16th  century;  the  statues  are  by  Mi- 
guel Florentin,  Marin,  Pesquera,  and 
Cabrera,  1523-1575.  The  modelling 
is  good,  the  expression  natural,  and  the 
draperies  rendered  with  ease,  but  pre- 
serve still  somewhat  of  the  rigid  stiff- 
ness and  lifeless  immobility  of  the 
Gothic  period.  See,  in  a  small  sa- 
cristy behind  the  altar,  some  curious 
pictures  by  Alejo  Fernandez,  whose 
pupil  was  Castillo,  the  master  in  his 
turn  of  Murillo  and  Cano ;  they  are 
painted  somewhat  after  the  German 
school,  and  represent  the  Conception, 
Nativity,  and  Purification. 

Chapels. — The  Sagrario  is  the  largest 
in  the  cathedral,  and  its  parish  church. 
It  is  situated  to  left  on  entering  by  the 
principal  or  W.  facade.  It  was  begun 
1618,  by  Zumarraga,  and  finished  by 
Iglesias  in  1662.  It  is  of  the  three  classic 
orders,  and  of  one  nave  with  chapels 
around  ;  the  dome,  108  ft.  high,  is  bold. 
Over  the  chapels  are  colossal  statues  of 
theevangelistsand  doctors  of  the  church, 
by  Jose"  Arce,  1657,  indifferently  fine. 
The  former  retablo  was  of  a  most  in- 
ferior style,  and  the  present  one,  put  up 
in  1840,  was  brought  here  from  the 
Convent  of  San  Francisco.  It  repre- 
sents the  Virgin  and  Dead  Christ,  with 


St.  Magdalen,  St  John,  etc.,  and  is  con 
sidered  a  masterpiece  of  Pedro  Roldan 
and  Rivas ;  the  relievo  at  the  base  is 
also  very  good,  and  represents  the  En- 
trance to  Jerusalem.  Under  this  church 
or  chapel  is  the  vault  where  the  arch- 
bishops of  Seville  are  buried  ;  continu- 
ing to  the  right  of  former  chapel,  we 
must  pause  before  that  of  Los  Jacomes. 
The  picture  by  Roelas  is  fine,  and  the 
colouring  Venetian,  but  it  has  been 
sadly  spoilt  by  Molina ;  it  represents 
Our  Lady  of  Anguish  (Augustia). 

Cap.  of  La  Visitation.  —  A  retablo 
painted  by  Pedro  Marmolejo  de  Vil- 
legas,  17th  century.  The  St.  Gerome 
over  the  altar  is  a  fine  statue  by  Ger. 
Hernandez. 

Cap.  del  Consuelo. — A  Holy  Family, 
considered  as  the  masterpiece  of  Tobar, 
the  best  pupil  and  imitator  of  Murillo. 
Pass  the  grand  door,  and  observe,  over 
the  small  altar  del  Angel  de  la  Guarda, 
the  picture  by  Murillo  of  the  Guardian 
Angel  holding  a  Child ;  it  is  one  of  the 
sunniest  and  freshest  visions  of  that 
great  and  pious  painter ;  belonged,  till 
1814,  to  the  Capucin  Convent 

C.  del  Nacimwnto. — The  Nativity  and 
the  Four  Evangelists  are  by  Luis  de 
Vargas,  in  the  style  of  his  master, 
Pierino  del  Vago ;  the  Virgin  very  fine, 
the  composition  excellent,  and  the  co- 
louring and  drawing  most  Italian-like ; 
the  Virgin  and  Child  and  St.  Ann  are 
ascribed  to  Morales. 

Ca.  of  San  Lawreano. — A  large  pic- 
ture of  the  tutelar,  represented  walking 
without  his  head,  a  not  uncommon 
miracle  with  Spanish  saints,  and,  like 
Dante's  Bertrand  del  Bornio,  *un  busto 
senza  capo  andar'  {Inferno,  28,  40). 
The  first  stone  of  the  present  cathedral 
was  laid  in  the  corner  of  this  chapel, 
close  to  Torre  de  San  Miguel. 

Ca.  de  Sta.  Ana. — Formerly  de  San 
Bartolome\  A  curious  retablo  of  1404, 
representing  San  Bartolome  in  centre  ; 


388 


SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


above,  a  relievo  Coronation  of  the  Vir- 
gin, and  in  the  lateral  compartments 
Apostles  and  Holy  Fathers  ;  the  back- 
grounds and  draperies  are  gilt;  the 
dresses  and  style  are  interesting.  Pass- 
ing now  by  the  door  leading  to  the 
archives  and  Mayordomia  (No.  8); 
(the  archives,  concealed  daring  the 
French  invasion,  escaped  wonderfully, 
and  are  most  complete)  we  shall  visit 

Cap.  de  San  Josi. — A  Nativity,  by 
Antolinez  ;  a  marriage  of  the  Virgin, 
by  Valdes  Leal;  a  clumsy,  classical 
retablo,  by  one  Arnel,  4the  Massacre  of 
Innocents ;'  the  author,  an  Italian,  out- 
herods  Herod. 

Cap.  SanHermenegildo. — Founded  by 
Cardinal  Cervantes,  whose  fine  statue 
belongs  to  the  Gothic  style  of  15th 
century ;  the  draperies  are  finely  mo- 
delled, by  Mercadante  of  Brittany, 
master  of  Nufro  Sanchez.  The  tute- 
lar's  statue  is  by  Montanes.  Here  lies 
the  Admiral  of  Castille,  Juan  Mathe 
de  Luna,  who,  says  the  epitaph,  '  Muy 
bien  sirvio  a  los  Reyes,  ob.  1337.' 

Cap.  de  la  Antigua. — In  its  small  sa- 
cristia  are  some  pictures  by  Antolinez, 
Morales,  Zurbaran,  Greco,  and  flower- 
pieces  by  Arellano.  The  image  of  the 
Virgin  is  exceedingly  ancient,  and  be- 
longed to  the  former  cathedral.  It  is 
Byzantine  in  style ;  the  marble  altar  is 
classical,  with  good  statues  by  Cornejo. 
Observe  the  magnificent  cinquecento 
tomb  of  El  Gran  Cardenal,  Diego  Hur- 
tado  de  Mendoza,  ob.  1502.  It  was 
erected  by  his  brother,  Conde  de  Ten- 
dilla,  and  made,  1504-1509,  by  Miguel 
Florentin,  who  carved  the  statues  of 
St.  Peter  and  St  Paul  at  the  sides  of 
Puerta  del  Perdon,  or  Court  of  Oranges. 
The  bassi-relievi,  illustrating  scenes 
from  life  of  the  Virgin,  and  the  six 
statues  of  saints,  are  fine. 

The  Transept,  Dome,  or  Cimborio. — 
The  former  dome  fell  in  the  night  of 
Dec.  28,  1511.     Great  and  real  was  the 


consternation  felt  by  all  the  artist-world 
of  that  cathedralising  period ;  and  each 
town  sent  its  architect  to  repair  the  mis- 
fortune. Jaen  sent  Pedro  Lopez ;  To- 
ledo, Enrique  de  Egas  ;  Vitoria,  Juan 
de  Alava ;  but  that  of  Salamanca,  Juan 
Gil  de  Hontanon,  had  the  glory  of  erect- 
ing the  actual  transept  and  dome,  and 
thus  achieving  the  completion  of  the 
cathedral  in  1519.  This  dome  rises  191 
ft.,  and  rests  on  four  massive  pillars ;  it 
is  very  bold  and  airy,  and  of  grand 
effect.  In  passing  the  Puerta  de  la 
Lonja,  to  the  left  of  it  is  the  altar  and 
small  chapel  of  La  Generation,  founded 
1534  by  the  Medinas,  whose  portraits 
by  Vargas  are  seen  on  the  altar ;  bnt 
the  principal  picture  is  the  Virgin  and 
Child,  with  Adam  and  Eve  adoring,  and 
several  Patriarchs.  It  is  commonly 
called  '  El  cuadro  de  la  Gamba,'  from 
the  'leg*  of  Adam,  of  which  Mateo 
Perez  de  Alesio,  who  had  then  just 
finished  his  fresco  picture  of  San  Cris- 
tobal, which  is  placed  opposite,  ex- 
claimed, '  Piu  vale  la  tua  gamba  che  il 
mio  Santo  Cristoforo.'  Palomino,  who 
tells  or  invents  this  anecdote,  could  not 
have  been  ignorant  that  Luis  de  Vargas 
died  fifteen  years  before  Alesio  painted 
his  St  Christopher,  which  he  did  in 
1584  ;  the  latter  is  certainly  inferior  in 
everything  save  size  ;  it  is  32  ft.  high, 
the  subject  is  invariably  found  in  every 
large  church  in  Spain,  was  formerly 
sculptured,  as,  till  last  century,  in  Notre 
Dame,  in  Paris,  and  the  Seville  old 
cathedral.  The  chapel  to  the  right  of 
this  door  is  indifferent ;  pictures  by 
Pedro  Fernandez  de  la  Guadalupe ;  ob- 
serve his  Descent,  1527.  Close  by  is 
the  Sacristia  de  los  Calices,  designed  by 
Diego  de  Riano,  1530,  but  finished  in 
1861.  See  the  fine  Christ,  sculptured 
by  Montanes ;  much  admired  by  the 
Sevillanos.  A  very  fine  portrait  of 
Contreras,  by  L.  de  Vargas,  1541 ;  the 
colouring  is  beautiful.    Admire  also  the 


SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


389 


portrait  of  La  Monja  Dorotea,  "by  Mu- 
rillo,  painted  in  1674  ;  a  St.  Peter,  by 
-Herrera  el  Viejo,  very  fine,  and  a  Sa- 
viour, by  Las  Roelas.  The  picture  of 
Stas.  Justa  y  Rufina,  patronesses  of  Se- 
ville, is  by  Goya,  and  are  portraits  of 
Madrilenian  beauties,  more  of  the  class 
'  comme  il  en  faut,'  than  '  comme  il 
faut. '  The  rtyle  of  the  room  is  errone- 
ously  called  puro  gotico  by  Cean  Ber- 
mudez,  who  knew  little  of  this  style, 
which,  in  his  time,  was  not  in  practice. 
It  is  between  the  Gothic  and  plater- 
esque ;  the  arches  circular,  etc 

Gap.  de  los  Dolores. — The  image  of 
Virgin  is  by  Pedro  de  Mena.  The  pic- 
tures indifferent,  and  of  the  Sevillian 
and  Rubens  school. 

Gap.  de  San  Andre's. — Tombs  of  the 
founders,  the  Counts  of  Cifuentes,  be- 
ginning of  15th  century ;  a  curious 
picture,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  by 
Alejo  Fernandez. 

Antesala  of  the  Sacristia  Mayor. — 
Observe  the  roof,  and  Cardinal  Virtues 
In  niches 

Sacristia  Mayor. — Designed  by  Ri- 
ano,  and  executed  by  Martin  de  Gainza ; 
finished  1561.  It  is  a  masterpiece  of 
Riano's,  which  death  did  not  allow  him 
to  see  completed  ;  and  a  magnificent 
specimen  of  the  plateresque,  though  in 
many  details  the  centaurs,  lapithse,  etc. , 
are  out  of  keeping.  Its  shape  is  a  Greek 
cross ;  it  is  70  ft.  long,  by  40  ft.  wide, 
and  120  ft.  high.  The  arch  of  the  door 
is  full  of  curious  relievo  medallions  re- 
presenting dishes  of  meat  and  fruit. 
The  armarios,  or  presses  where  the 
dresses  of  the  clergy  are  kept,  are  mo- 
dern. Those  which  contain  the  plate, 
reliquaries,  etc.,  were  carved  by  Pedro 
"Duque  Cornejo  (1677-1757).  Notice 
especially  the  celebrated  'custodia,'  by 
Arfe,  which  is  considered  to  be  his 
masterpiece.  It  is  12  stages  high,  and 
formed  by  four  cuerpos  resting  on  96 
beautifully  ornamented   pillarets.     In 


the  centre  the  former  statuette,  repre- 
senting Faith,  was  substituted  in  1668 
by  the  present  one  of  our  Lady  of  La 
Concepcion.  The  allegorical  statuettes 
— the  children,  vine-work,  relievos  re- 
presenting scenes  from  the  Old  and  New 
Testament — all  is  beautiful.  The  statue 
of  Faith  which  crowns  the  summit,  and 
12  angels,  etc.,  were  put  up  in  1668  by 
Juan  de  Segura,  it  weighs  48  arrobas. 
The  inscription  is  by  Pacheco.  Ask  for 
the  Tenebrario,  a  masterpiece  of  Bar- 
tolome  Morel,  finished  in  1562  for  1050 
ducats — a  then  enormous  sum ;  the  foot 
and  15  upper  statuettes  are  not  by  him, 
but  after  his  designs.  It  is  25  ft  high. 
This  most  exquisite  piece  of  workman- 
ship is  put  up  during  Easter  week  in 
the  entre-los-Coros,  when  the  Miserere 
is  sung,  and  according  to  what  is  ob- 
served in  every  church,  the  13  candles 
which  light  it  are  put  out  one  after  an- 
other in  remembrance  of  the  Apostles, 
who  in  turn  deserted  the  Master.  The 
picture  of  San  Leandro  and  San  Isidoro 
are  by  Murillo.  They  are  in  his  early 
style,  frio.  The  heads  are  fine,  and 
likenesses — the  former  of  Herrera,  a 
canon  ;  and  the  latter  of  J.  Lopez  Tala- 
van.  The  colouring  wants  warmth,  and 
we  are  here  still  far  from  the  subsequent 
vaporoso.  Over  the  altar  is  a  sombre, 
mysterious,  and  awe-striking  picture  of 
the  Descent  from  the  Cross.  It  is  by 
Pedro  Campana,  1502,  a  pupil,  some 
say,  of  M.  Angelo.  Palomino,  Hi.  p. 
369  ;  fiermudez,  Dico.  1,  p.  201 ;  and 
Pacheco,  p.  241,  affirm  of  Raphael. 
Murillo  liked  it,  and  used  to  stand  for 
hours  before  it,  and  once  replied  to  some 
one  asking  what  he  was  doing  :  '  I  am 
waiting  till  those  holy  men  have  taken 
our  Lord  down  ;'  and  Pacheco  assures 
us,  ' he  was  afraid  to  remain  after  dark 
alone  with  this  picture  ;'  and  before  it, 
Murillo  desired  to  be  buried.  The  relics 
kept  here  are  of  very  great  value  sui 
generis.    A  fine  and  richly-inlaid  virU 


390 


SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


•nth  1200  diamonds.  A  finely-chiselled 
cross  of  1580,  by  Francisco  Merino ;  bits 
of  the  true  cross,  bones,  etc.,  several 
fine  Gothic  chalices,  and  the  keys  de- 
livered to  St.  Ferdinand  when  he  took 
Seville  ;  there  is  one  which  was  given 
by  the  Jews,  with  the  Hebrew  inscrip- 
tion, •  The  King  of  Kings  will  open,  the 
King  of  all  the  earth  will  enter.'  The 
other  one  is  Moorish,  and  bears  the  fol- 
lowing:— 'May  Allah  render  eternal 
the  dominion  of  Islam  in  this  city  1'  In 
the  next  small  room,  called  '  el  tesoro,' 
are  kept  several  fine  plate  and  gold- 
smiths' works,  and  a  well-designed  em- 
bossed basin,  given  by  Louis  Philippe, 
and  containing  his  and  his  family's  por- 
traits. This,  together  with  a  paltry 
portrait  of  Columbus,  and  a  collection 
of  prints,  constituted  the  compensation 
given  by  him  to  the  chapter  for  the 
beautiful  Ecce  Homo  by  Murillo,  which 
belonged  to  the  cathedral,  which  Baron 
Taylor  obtained  for  him  through  the 
old  Dean  Cepero,  and  which  is  still  the 
property  of  the  Orleans  family.  See 
also  the  splendid  dresses  of  the  clergy, 
unequalled  in  any  other  country  and 
age  ;  the  dalmaticas  and  ternos  are  most 
superbly  embroidered.  The  Alfonsine 
tablets  studded  with  relics  are  also  kept 
here,  and  a  cross  made  from  a  nugget  of 
the  first  gold  brought  by  Columbus,  and 
offered  by  him.  We  shall  now  proceed  to 

Capilla  de  Mariscal,  founded  by  the 
muy  magnificos  Senores  of  that  name. 
The  retablo,  at  the  sides  of  which  they 
are  portrayed,  is  a  fine  specimen  of 
Campana's  talent.  The  Apostles,  Dis- 
pute with  the  Doctors,  etc.,  are  all  fine. 
It  is  especially  as  a  portrait-painter  that 
he  was  highly  valued.  His  Purificacion 
is  fine.  The  ArUe-Cdbildo  has  little  to 
see  ;  it  is  gaudy  and  heavily  decorated. 
The  inscriptions  of  medallions  are  by 
Francisco  Pacheco. 

Sola  Capitular.  —  Chapter  -  house ; 
designed  by  Riafio,  1530 ;  another  mag- 


nificent specimen  of  the  plateresque, 
measures  50  ft.  long  by  34  ft.  wide,  and 
43  ft  (Spanish)  high.  Martin  Gainza 
carried  on  the  works  till  about  1568. 
The  beautiful  artesonado  ceiling,  pave- 
ment, bassi-relievi  medallions  made  at 
Genoa,  and  representing  scenes  from 
the  Scripture,  the  profusion  of  deli- 
cately-carved statuettes,  etc,  are  to  be 
especially  noticed.  Caveda  and  other 
authors  call  the  style  Greco-Roman — 
considering  it  as  the  finest  and  purest 
specimen  in  Spain  ;  but  the  details,  or- 
namentation, and  other  portions  belong 
to  the  plateresque.  Pictures. — Concep- 
tion, by  Murillo,  beautifully  painted ; 
the  Virgin's  expression  is  most  exqui- 
site, the  colouring  perfect ;  a  Christ 
Bound,  and  a  Virgin  and  Child  as- 
cribed to  him.  The  eight  ovals  be- 
tween the  windows  are  also  by  him, 
and  represent  half-length  pictures  of 
the  Patron  Saints  of  Seville.  The 
eight  allegorical  pictures  representing 
women  and  children  with  chiaroscuro 
figures  are  by  Cespedes,  retouched  by 
Murillo.  The  marble  medallions  are 
Genoese,  and  represent  the  Virtues. 
Look  carefully  also  at  a  San  Ferdinand 
and  the  Santas  Rufina  and  Justa  by 
Murillo  (or,  the  latter,  by  Cespedes  ?), 
and  an  Abraham's  sacrifice  by  Cespedes. 

The  first  chapel  on  the  right  is  '  La 
Concepcion  Grande.'  Here  is  a  crucifix 
ascribed  to  Alfonso  Cano,  and  a  few 
indifferent  pictures  treating  of  the 
removal,  translation,  of  the  ashes  of  the 
Conquistadores  of  Seville. 

Capilla  Real,  the  Royal  Chapel,  so 
called  because  it  was  built  to  contain 
the  bodies  of  royal  personages.  It  was 
built  by  Martin  Gainza  at  the  request 
of  Charles  V.,  who  wished  the  former 
high  chapel,  already  pulled  down,  to 
have  a  substitute.  The  plans  were 
revised  by  Alfonso  de  Covarrubias  ;  the 
plans  of  Egas  and  Alava  having  been 
laid  aside.    The  works  begun  1551,  and 


SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


391 


finished  1575,  by  Fernan  Ruiz,  who 
succeeded  Gainza  at  his  death.  The 
style  of  it  is  the  plateresque  at  its  latest 
period.  It  is  considered  a  very  fine 
specimen  of  this  style,  but  is  somewhat 
overloaded  with  details  and  ornamenta- 
tion. It  measures  81  ft.  long,  59  ft. 
wide,  130  ft  high.  The  reja  is  indif- 
ferent and  modern,  a  gift  of  Charles  III. 
Over  it  is  the  equestrian  statue  of  St. 
Ferdinand  between  two  Moorish  kings 
(perhaps  rather  a  Jew  and  a  Moor) 
offering  him  the  keys  of  Seville.  Over 
the  frieze  itself  are  twelve  full-sized 
statues  designed  by  Pedro  de  Campana, 
who  drew  them  on  the  wall  with  a  bit 
of  coal  for  one  ducat  each,  and  executed 
by  Lorenzo  del  Vao  and  Campos,  in 
1553.  They  represent  Apostles,  Evan- 
gelists, and  kings  of  the  Old  Testa- 
ment. The  chapel  is  very  spacious  ;  at 
the  sides  are  deeply-recessed  alcoves 
containing  the  tombs  of  D.  Beatrix, 
wife  of  St  Ferdinand,  Alfonso  the 
Learned,  and  Dona  Maria  de  Padilla, 
the  celebrated  mistress  of  Pedro  el 
Cruel ;  the  medallions  are  of  Garci 
Perez,  and  D.  Perez  de  Vargas ;  the 
retablo,  1647,  is  very  indifferent  In 
the  middle  of  the  chapel  rises  a  double 
altar — one  higher  than  the  other.  The 
image  is  the  celebrated  one  of  'Our 
Lady  of  Kings,'  a  present  from  St 
Louis  of  France  to  St  Ferdinand.  In 
the  arabesques  of  the  roof  are  figures 
of  all  the  kings  of  Spain  ;  the  second  or 
lower  part  of  the  altar  is  formed  by  the 
silver  and  glazed  urn,  made  in  1729, 
which  contains  the  almost  perfect  body 
of  the  saint.  The  body  is  displayed 
on  May  30,  August  22,  and  November 
23,  when  the  military  mass  and  other 
ceremonies  are  most  striking  to  wit- 
ness. The  original  sepulchre  on  which 
the  nrna  is  placed  bears  inscriptions  in 
Latin,  Hebrew,  and  Arabic,  which  were 
composed  by  the  hero's  learned  son, 
Alfonso  el  Sabio.    The  king  is  dressed 


in  his  royal  robes,  with  the  crown  on 
his  head ;  his  hands  are  crossed  over  his 
chest.  On  the  right  is  the  Baston  de 
Mando,  the  staff  ox  sceptre  ;  on  the 
left  is  the  sword,  which  is  short,  plain, 
and  light  The  precious  stones  which 
originally  enriched  the  handle  were 
carried  away  by  king  Don  Pedro,  who 
did  so,  he  said,  lest  they  might  be  taken 
away  by  others.  This  chapel  has  a 
special  clergy  and  sacristias. 

Cap.  de  S.  Pedro. — On  right  of  latter ; 
the  reja  is  the  elegant  work  of  the  lay 
Franciscan  Jose'  Cordero.  The  nine 
Zurbarans  cannot  be  seen  to  any  ad- 
vantage owing  to  the  darkness  of  this 
corner  of  the  cathedral.  Five  of  them 
represent  scenes  from  St  Peter's  life. 
Observe  the  Apostle  healing  the  sick  ; 
the  one  representing  him  receiving  the 
keys  from  our  Saviour,  and  the  Apostle 
in  the  papal  robes,  are  the  best 

Cap.  de  N.  S.  de  Belem. — An  ex- 
quisite picture  of  Virgin  and  Child,  by 
A.  Cano. 

C.  de  San  Francisco. — The  Saint 
in  Glory,  by  Herrera  el  Mozo.  The 
colouring  admirable  ;  the  composition 
very  good.  It  is  perhaps  this  master's 
masterpiece. 

C.  de  Santiago. — St.  James  conquer- 
ing the  Moors,  a  fine  picture  by  Las 
Roelas ;  very  rich  colouring ;  and  a 
St.  Lorenzo,  by  Valde*s  LeaL  In  Cap. 
del  Pilar  was  formerly  the  Ecce  Homo, 
removed  first  to  Sacristia  de  las  Calices 
in  1836,  and  in  1839  given  to  Louis 
Philippe  by  the  chapter. 

Del  Baptisterio,  orDe  laPila. — Here 
hangs  the  picture  of  St.  Anthony  of 
Padua,  one  of  Murillo's  grandest  pic- 
tures. The  Infant  Jesus  to  his  saint's 
prayers  acceding,  descends,  amid  che- 
rubs and  flowers  and  sunbeams,  into 
his  arms  ecstatically  extended  towards 
him.  The  convent  is  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance. The  darkness  of  the  chapel 
adds  to  the  effect  of  the  lights  over  the 


392 


SEVILLE. 


picture,  which  belongs  to  the  best 
period  of  Murillo's,  the  vaporoso,  dates 
1556,  and  for  which  he  was  paid  the 
sum  of  10,000r.  (about  £100).  It 
was  of  this  and  the  St  Leander  and 
Isidoro  (in  the  Sacristy  de  los  Calices) 
that  Antonio  Castillo,  the  nephew  of 
Murillo's  master  Juan,  said,  '  It  is  all 
over  with  Castillo ;  is  it  possible  that 
Murillo,  that  servile  imitator  of  my 
uncle,  can  be  the  author  of  all  this 
grace  and  beauty  of  colouring?'  It  is 
asserted  by  some  that  the  picture  was 
banado  or  daubed  over  in  1833  by 
one  Gutierrez.  Captain  "Widdrington, 
*  Spain  in  1843,'  L  p.  246,  maintains 
it  is  uninjured.  The  figure  of  the  saint 
was  cut  out  and  stolen,  Nov.  4,  1874, 
but  promptly  recovered,  from  New 
York,  and  very  faultlessly  restored. 

Stained  Windows. — Ninety-three  in 
number.  They  are  among  the  finest  in 
Spain  ;  were  begun  by  Micer,  Cristobal, 
Alencon  or  L'Allemand,  1504,  and 
finished  1569  by  several  other  great 
*vidrieros.'  The  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin,  facing  the  transept  and  right 
of  high  altar,  was  begun  in  1538  by 
Arnao  de  Vergara,  and  completed  1557 
by  Arnao  of  Flanders.  It  is  very 
beautifully  painted — the  hues  most 
rich.  The  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost, 
on  the  side  of  the  door  of  Court  of 
Oranges,  is  by  Arnao  de  Flanders.  By 
him  are  also  Sta.  Maria  close  to  the 
door  of  St.  Michael ;  the  Apostles  in 
transept,  left  of  high  altar ;  the  four 
bishops  on  same  side ;  the  circular 
window  of  La  Ascension.  Observe 
especially  his  Entry  into  Jerusalem, 
Lazarus,  Jesus  "Washing  the  Feet  of 
His  Disciples,  The  Lord's  Supper,  etc. 
The  Resurrection  in  Cap.  de  los  Don- 
celles  is  by  Karl  of  Bruges,  1558.  The 
Conversion  of  St.  Paul,  1560,  in  Cap. 
de  Santiago  (observe  its  glorious  reds 
and  blues) ;  the  rest  are  by  Vicente 
Menandro,  who  painted  till  1569. 


The  daily  services  here  were  far  above 
the  Spanish  average.  The  finest  special 
services  are  the  Misa  del  Gallo  on  Christ- 
mas Eve,  and  the  quaint  rites  of  Corpus 
and  the  Octave  of  the  Immaculate  Con- 
ception, when  the  '  seizes,'  or  chorister 
boys,  sing  and  dance  before  the  high 
altar,  dressed  in  the  costume  of  pages 
of  the  17th  century. 

La  Caridad  was  founded  by  D.  Miguel 
de  Manara,  a  young  nobleman  of  Seville, 
of  great  wealth,  and  as  celebrated  for  his 
reckless  profligacy  as  for  his  generosity, 
courage,  and  patronage  of  artists.  To  his 
intimate  friendship  with  Murillo  we  owe 
the  beautiful  pictures  we  shall  speak  of. 
The  repentant  Don  Miguel,  a.  true  type 
of  the  true  Don  Juan,  who  lived  middle 
of  17  th  century,  rebuilt  the  church  1661, 
which,  built  up  in  1598,  under  the  ad- 
vocacy of  St  George,  belonged  to  a 
hermandad  or  brotherhood,  whose  self- 
imposed  duties  were  to  give  religious 
consolation  to  those  about  to  die  on  the 
scaffold,  and  to  bury  their  bodies  ;  and 
calling  it  De  la  Caridad,  the  founder 
converted  it,  moreover,  into  a  pauper- 
house  and  a  refuge  for  the  aged.  The 
hospital  and  church  were  rebuilt  in  the 
churrigueresque  style  by  Pereda.  Here 
the  reformed  Don  Juan  retired  and 
died,  a  perfect  example  of  piety,  humi- 
lity, and  abnegation.  (His  life  has 
been  recently  published  by  M.  de  La- 
tour,  the  Duke  de  Montpensier's  former 
tutor  and  present  intendant  See, 
moreover,  'Vida  y  Muerte  de  Don 
Miguel  de  Manara,'  etc,  by  Juan  de 
Cardenas,  4to,  Seville.)  There  are  two 
noble  patios  with  fountains  and  plants. 
The  sick  and  aged,  and  other  sort  of 
incurables,  are  most  providently  taken 
care  of.  Admission  is  readily  given  at 
all  hours,  and  every  attention  shown. 
No  fees,  but  a  small  contribution  for  the 
support  of  the  hospital  expected.* 

*  To  visit  this  establishment,  apply  at  door 
of  hospital.    In  the  archives  there  is  a  petition 


SEVILLE. 


393 


The  Church  is  very  small,  narrow, 
and  dark.  The  churrigueresque  retablo 
mayor  is  by  Simon  Pineda.  Observe 
carefully  the  finely  carved  and  painted 
'Deposition/  perhaps  Pedro  Roldan's 
masterpiece ;  also  tomb  of  Bernardo 
de  Valdes  on  left,  with  the  '  arms '  of 
Christ.  Descending  from  the  altar  notice 
an  Infant  Saviour  by  Murillo,  very  full 
of  expression.  Observe  on  the  last  altar 
on  left  a  fine  '  Ecce  Homo, '  by  A.  Cano. 
The  figures  of  the  pulpit  are  by  Roldan, 
the  carved  steps  by  Pineda.  Opposite, 
and  as  a  pendant  to  it,  is  a  St.  John 
the  Baptist,  by  Murillo,  beautifully 
coloured,  warm,  and  Italian-like  in 
tints.  Over  another  altar  is  a  magnifi- 
cently-painted San  Juan  de  Dios  by 
same.  The  saint  is  assisted  by  an  angel 
in  carrying  a  sick  man. 

'  One  other  picture  here,  San  Juan  de 
Dios  with  an  angel,  is,  in  composition 
and  colour,  one  of  the  finest  examples 
of  Murillo.'  ('Life  of  Wilkie,'  ii.) 
The  chiaroscuro  is  admirably  treated ; 
the  attitudes  simple,  but  well  selected. 
The  drapery  behind  the  angel  is  a  per- 
fect specimen  of  the  inimitable  (in  the 
Spanish  schools)  manner  of  Murillo  in 
the  treatment  of  his  white  linen.  In 
the  distance  is  a  diminutive  group, 
dreamily  painted  in  a  hazy  manner, 
and  representing  the  same  saint  wash- 
ing a  pauper's  feet,  but  the  light  is  not 
good  enough  to  distinguish  this  second 
portion.  There  is  something  Rem- 
brandt-like about  this  picture  in  the 
distribution  of  lights  and  shades,  the 
very  rich  browns,  etc 

Hung  rather  too  high  up,  and  on  the 
left  of  the  high  altar,  observe  Murillo's 
Miracle  of  the  Loaves  and  Fishes.  In 
the  distant  background  the  5000  are 
grouped  amid  a  wild  landscape  as  Span- 
ish as  the  sky  itself,  and  one  of  the  few 
examples  of  Murillo's  aavoir  faire  for 

of  Murillo,  begging  to  be  admitted  as  an  her- 
taano  into  the  community. 


landscapes,  though,  as  usual  in  the 
Spanish  school,  they  were  considered  as 
a  mere  accessory.  In  the  foreground, 
on  one  side,  St.  Peter  speaking  to  a  boy 
with  a  basket  of  fishes,  a  true  nifio  de 
Murillo,  whilst  St.  Andrew  is  giving 
our  Saviour  the  loaves  which  He  blesses. 
Christ  is  seated  ;  the  figure  is  calm  and 
dignified,  but  not  expressive.  The 
grouping  is  well  understood,  and  the 
colouring  fine,  but  the  general  execution 
is  hasty  and  somewhat  sketchy.  The 
price  of  this  picture  was  about  £150. 

Opposite  is  one  of  the  finest  pictures 
of  the  master,  and  commonly  called  la 
Sed  (the  Thirst)  de  Murillo,  the  subject 
being  Moses  striking  the  rock ;  it  is 
divided  into  three  groups  the  water 
is  gushing  forth  from  the  rent  in  the 
rock,  the  miracle  is  performed,  the 
thirsty  Israelites,  each  with  a  different 
expression  of  past  anguish  and  pri- 
vation mingled  with  present  delight 
and   gratitude,    are  rushing  forward. 

Animals  share  in  this  joy  of  the  body,  which 
the  semi-Arab  Spaniard  could  alone  fully  under- 
stand and  render.  Moses,  his  hands  folded 
and  with  a  most  majestic  attitude  and  mien, 
looks  up  to  heaven  in  thanksgiving.  Moses's 
long  flowing  garments  are  draped  after  the 
fashion  of  the  monks,  which. Murillo  and  Zur- 
baran  studied  so  much.  His  yellow  tunic  and 
crimson  mantle  are  beautifully  tinted,  and  his 
beard  and  face  quite  in  the  vaporoso  style. 
Behind  him  stands  his  brother  Aaron,  praying. 
The  grouping  is  admirable,  and  the  different 
scenes  do  not  disturb  the  unity  of  the  composi- 
tion and  subject  Observe  the  urchin  on  a  grey 
horse,  a  perfect  pillo,  whose  type  you  will  meet 
on  leaving  this  church.  The  little  girl  handing 
a  puchero  full  of  water ;  the  group  formed  by 
a  woman  drinking,  with  the  selfishness  of  want, 
while  the  child  she  is  carrying  begs  a  drink,  the 
dog  slaking  its  thirst,  a  woman  giving  water  to 
some  boys— all  types  of  Triana,  men,  dogs, 
dresses,  to  the  very  cantaros,  alcarrazas,  botijas, 
etc. ;  all  in  this  composition  is  full  of  life,  local 
feeling,  and  truth.  'This  paintir.g  affords  the 
best  evidence  how  nobly  Murillo  could  handle 
a  large  subject.  It  is  admirably  composed ;  for 
whilst  the  fine  dark  mass  of  the  rock,  and 
Moses  standing  beside  it,  form  a  sort  of  focus, 
the  groups  to  the  right  and  left  make  up  the 
whole,  and  by  their  details  tell  the  story  of  pre 


394 


SEVILLE — CHURCHES. 


vious  suffering  and  diiraculous  relief  with  the 
greatest  truth  and  feeling.'  ('Foreign  Quar- 
terly Review/  No.  26,  1834.)  Wilkie  says  that, 
owing  perhaps  to  its  position  and  darkness  of 
the  place,  it  disappointed  him,  and  had  a  grey 
negative  effect.  He  adds :  '  The  choice  of  col- 
ours in  the  Moses  is  poor,  and  the  chief  figure 
wants  relief.  The  great  merit  of  the  work  lies 
in  the  appearance  of  nature  and  truth  which  he 
has  given  to  the  wandering  descendants  of  Is- 
rael.' Murillo  received  about  £130  for  this 
work.  The  magnificent  engraving  of  this  pic- 
ture by  Esteve,  in  1839,  nas  greatly  added  to 
its  European  popularity.  The  first  proof  is  in 
one  of  the  rooms  here.  It  has  been  lately  var- 
nished over,  and  with  excess. 

The  azulejo  dados  outside  the  chapel 
facade  represent  Charity,  Hope — St. 
George  and  St.  James ;  they  are  after 
designs  by  Murillo.  The  choir  is  placed 
very  high,  and  behind  it  is  the  Exalta- 
tion de  la  Cruz,  by  Vald6s  Leal,  paint- 
ed with  boldness  and  effect.  The  Duke 
of  Montpensier  possesses  the  sketch  of 
it  by  Leal.  The  lights  are  not  happily 
treated,  and  therefore  add  to  the  con- 
fused groups  of  the  numberless  figures. 
See  rather  his  excellent  Triunfo  del 
Tiempo,  an  allegorical  picture,  intend- 
ed as  a  moral  lesson  on  the  inanity  of 
glory,  empty  hopes,  and  the  like  vani- 
tas  vanitatvm  of  this  world.  It  is  not 
a  pleasing  subject,  nor  is  it  at  all  Span- 
ish in  character,  but  the  treatment  of 
it  has  breadth,  grandeur,  thought.  The 
colouring  is  most  beautiful  and  rich. 
Opposite  is  A  Dead  Prelate,  another  of 
ValdeY  which  also  points  a  moral,  but 
could  adorn  nothing  save  a  gravedigger's 
room.  On  seeing  it  Murillo  is  said  to 
have  exclaimed,  'One  cannot  look  at 
your  picture,  Leal,  without  holding 
one's  nose.'  To  which  the  irritated 
master  is  said  to  have  replied :  '  You 
have  taken  all  the  flesh,  and  left  me  to 
work  but  bones.'  However,  Murillo's 
(Sta.  Isabel'  belongs  as  much  as  this 
to  the  naturalistic  school. 

To  the  right  of  the  half-eaten  prelate 
is  the  body  of  the  founder,  represented 


after  his  own  orders,  and  wearing  ou 
his  velvet  coat,  eaten  into  by  worms, 
the  then  most  noble  order  of  Calatrava. 
On  the  threshold  of  the  sacristia  is  the 
founder's  tomb,  which  was  originally 
outside  the  chapel,  so  that,  according 
to  his  wish,  his  body  might  be  trodden 
upon  by  every  one.  The  first  words  of 
the  epitaph  were  dictated  by  him.  He 
humbly  calls  his  ashes,  'Cenizas  del 
peor  hombre  que  ha  habido  en  el  mun- 
do.' 

In  the  sacristy  are  some  indifferent 
pictures  ascribed  to  great  masters.  In 
the  rooms  above,  see  the  full-length 
portrait  of  Manara,  by  Valdes  Leal,  not  a 
Don  Juanesque  mien  or  face.  Observe 
also  a  '  Vision  of  San  Cayetano*  quoted 
by  Cespedes,  and  two  aguadas  (water- 
colours)  on  some  books,  by  Valdes  Leal 
and  lriarte.  The  portraits  of  distin- 
guished members,cofrades,amongst  them 
the  Due  de  Montpensier,  etc. — are  most 

indifferent  Ma&ara  left  j£io,ooo  a-year  to  the 
establishment  he  had  reorganised,  and  several 
well-inspired  statutes  and  rules.  There  were  for- 
merly eleven  Murillos  here,  which  were  painted 
between  1660  and  1674.  Marshal  Soult  carried 
away  five,  of  which  the  Abraham  receiving  the 
Angels  and  The  Prodigal  Son  were  purchased 
by  the  Duke  of  Sutherland.  According  to 
Wilkie,  these  two  are  inferior  to  those  now  at 
La  Caridad.  A  third  one,  the  Pool  of  Bethesda, 
was  sold  to  Mr.  Tomline  for  i6o,ooof.  The 
fourth,  The  Angel  and  St.  Peter,  passed  in 
1852  to  Russia.  The  finest  of  them  all,  not  ex- 
cepting the  Thirst,  is  the  Sta.  Isabel  curing  the 
Lepers.  It  was  returned  by  the  French  Go- 
vernment, and  is  now  at  the  Picture  Gallery  of 
San  Fernando,  Madrid.  For  this  and  the  San 
Juan  de  Dios,  Murillo  was  paid  i6,84or.  The 
pictures  of  Abraham,  Pool  of  Bethesda,  Pro- 
digal Son,  and  the  St  Peter  and  Angel,  were 
paid  3o,ooor.  For  his  two  best,  Valdes  Leal 
was  paid  574or.  (archives  of  the  establishment); 
there  is  a  small  Virgin  de  Belem,  over  Roldan's 
Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Murillo. 

San  Lorenzo. — Five  naves,  formerly 
a  mosque.  Its  former  principal  entrance 
is  blocked  up.  Its  miraculous  Virgin 
de  Rocamador  dates  13th  century.  Iti 
retablo  mayor,  with  its  four  medallion*. 


SEVILLE — CHURCHES. 


395 


and  a  San  Lorenzo,  are  by  Montanes. 
The  Seiior  de  Gran  Poder  is  also  by  him, 
and  is  considered  very  fine.  Pictures. — 
A  Conception,  by  Francisco  Pacheco, 
1624.  An  Annunciation,  by  Pedro  de 
Villegas  Marmolejo,  who  is  buried  here. 
His  epitaph  is  by  Arias  Montafio,  the 
Sscorial  librarian. 

San  Miguel. — This,  one  of  the  oldest 
churches  here,  was  rebuilt  by  King 
Don  Pedro.  In  the  high  chapel  is 
buried  Don  Pedro's  '  valido'  or  favour- 
ite Martin  Yanez  de  Aponte.  In  1647, 
the  archaeologist  and  poet,  Rodrigo 
Caro,  was  buried  here.  The  style  is 
ogival,  of  14th  century.  The  portal, 
arches,  etc.,  are  ornamented  with  nails. 
The  capitals  of  the  pillars  are  full  of 
flowers  and  the  leaf  ornament.  The 
Christ  bearing  His  Cross  is  a  master- 
piece of  Montanes.  The  pictures  are 
indifferent  and  copies. 

San  Olemente. — Built  on  the  site  of  a 
Moorish  palace,  belonged  to  the  Cister- 
tian  nuns.  It  is  a  real  monasterio, 
from  being  the  burial-house  of  several 
crowned  heads.  Here  are  buried  Pedro 
el  Cruel's  mother,  Maria  of  Portugal, 
wife  of  Alfonso  XL,  and  the  latter  king's 
two  brothers,  and  in  the  choir  several 
infantas.  Observe  the  curious  beam- 
work  and  roof,  the  hall,  and  dome  fres- 
coes ;  the  azulejos,  which  date  1588. 
Pictures. — High  Altar,  plateresque  style, 
by  Montanes ;  portrait  of  St.  Ferdinand 
by  Valdes  Leal :  two  pictures  of  him 
by  Pacheco  ;  St  John  the  Baptist, 
carved  by  Nunez  Delgado,  and  painted 
by  Pacheco — a  fine  work. 

San  Vicente. — But  little  remains  of 
the  former  church  (300)  and  subsequent 
mosque.  The  brick  apse  with  agimeces, 
the  three  claraboyas  or  circular  loop- 
holes which  light  the  three  naves,  and 
probably  the  Saracenic-looking  wooden 
roof,  are  the  only  vestiges.  The  pic- 
tures forming  the  principal  retablo  are 
by  Yarela  (16th  century),  a  pupil  of 


Roelas ;  have  been  scattered  about  in 
the  Church.  They  represent  scenes 
from  the  life  of  San  Vicente.  Picture. 
— Christ,  by  Morales.  A  basso-relievo 
medallion,  'The  Descent,'  by  Pedro 
Delgado,  a  pupil  of  Micer  Florentine, 
and  who,  with  Morel,  worked  at  the 
Cathedral  Tenebrario. 

San  Julian. — Gothic  portal  with 
statues  of  saints,  three  naves,  of  which 
two  are  blocked  up.  On  one  of  its 
walls,  Sanchez  Castro  painted  a  colossal 
St.  Cristobal  in  1483.  It  was  repainted 
and  spoilt  in  1775.  The  head  was  not 
as  much  daubed  over,  and  is  fine.  To 
the  left  is  a  better  preserved  Holy  Family 
by  same,  both  of  which  are  interesting 
data  for  the  history  of  the  Sevillian 
schooL  The  Concepcion  at  the  altar  is 
ascribed  to  A.  Cano. 

Sta.  Lucia. — Picture,  a  Concepcion 
by  Cano,  and  Martyrdom  of  the  Saint 
by  Roelas. 

San  Juan  de  la  Palma.— Formerly  a 
mosque  j  repaired  in  13th  century.  Ob- 
serve the  ornamentation  of  heads  of 
nails,  lions'  and  dogs'  heads  ;  the  rest- 
ing-place of  the  Mexias.  That  of 
Pedro  Mexia,  chronicler  of  Charles  V., 
has  a  fine  epitaph  by  A.  Montafio. 
Pictures. — A  Crucifixion  by  Campana, 
hard ;  but  the  Virgin  and  Magdalen 
finely  painted,  and  the  expression  good. 
'San  Juan'  carved  in  wood  by  Cas- 
tillo. 

San  Esteban. — A  former  mosque,  the 
Moorish  style  of  which  was  repaired 
by  Pedro  el  Cruel ;  too  rare  an  instance 
in  Spain  of  Spanish  kings  keeping  up 
that  art  of  the  infidel.  Pictures^  etc. — 
A  Crucifixion  by  Campana  ;  an  Infant 
Christ  by  Montanes. 

San  Isidoro. — The  church  itself  in- 
different Pictures.— El  Transito,  or 
death  of  the  tutelar,  by  Roelas.  This 
is  considered  his  best  work.  '  The  face 
of  the  dying  saint  upheld  by  his  sorrow- 
ing clergy  is  very  fine,  and  the  subject 


396 


SEVILLE — PICTURE  -  GALLERY. 


suggests  a  comparison  which  would  be 
fatal  to  most  pictures  ;  it  reminds  us 
of  the  Communion  of  St.  Jerome,  by 
Domenichino  ;  nor  do  I  believe  that, 
as  a  whole,  the  work  of  Roelas  would 
lose  by  juxtaposition  with  that  master- 
piece/ (Sir  Ed- Head, 'Hand  of  Paint- 
ing,* p.  108.)  St.  Anthony  and  St. 
•Paul,  by  Campafia,  repainted.  Pictures 
by  ValcUs ;  El  Cirenco,  carved  by  Gijon. 

Golegio  de  Maese  Bodrigo.  — It  was  the 
first  university  of  Seville,  founded,  and 
the  edifice  built,  by  Canon  Don  Rodrigo 
de  Santaella,  1472.  See  his  epitaph, 
'Discite  mortales  ccelestia  quaerere, 
nostra  in  cineres  laudem  gloria  prima 
redit'  The  Estudios  Generales  were 
removed  in  1769  by  Charles  III.  to  the 
Jesuits'  House,  who  had  been  just  ex- 
pelled. Portrait  of  founder,  by  Zur- 
baran ;  has  been  sadly  repainted  by 
Vejarano. 

Golegiata  de  San  Salvador.  —  An 
ancient  mosque  rebuilt  middle  of  17th 
century  ;  the  style  churrigueresque. 
Image  of  San  Cristobal,  by  Montanes  ; 
Stas.  Justa  and  Rufina,  by  Cornejo. 
Observe  the  Moorish  patio,  and  the 
miraculous  Cristo  de  los  Desamparados. 

San  Andre's. — Pictures  by  Villegas 
Marmolejo,  and  a  fine  Concepcion  by 
Montanes. 

San  Alberto. — Pictures  by  Pacheco. 

Omnium  Sanctorum. — A  very  Moor- 
ish looking  church,  one  of  the  finest 
which  D.  Pedro  rebuilt. 

San  Pedro. — A  former  mosque.  A 
fine  retablo  picture  by  Campafia,  in- 
jured. The  Delivery  of  St.  Peter,  by 
Roelas. 

Sta.  Maria  la  Blanca. — A  Lord's 
Supper,  by  Murillo,  in  his  earliest 
style  ;  a  Dead  Christ,  by  L.  de  Vargas, 
injured,  but  magnificently  painted. 

The  church  of  the  present  university 
was  erected  for  the  Jesuits  after  designs 
by  Herrera,  and  belongs,  as  all  his  did, 
to  the  classic  style.      Observe  in  the 


retablo  three  pictures  by  Roelas — a  Holy 
Family  with  a  fine  figure  of  a  Jesuit 
in  the  foreground  ;  the  Virgin  and  St 
Joseph,  fine,  and  the  colouring  excel- 
lent Observe,  also,  the  Nativity  and 
Adoration.  These  three  pictures  are 
considered  by  some  as  Roelas'  finest 
examples  in  Seville.  The  Holy  Family 
above  is  by  Francisco  Pacheco.  An 
Infant  also  by  him  is  not  as  good. 
The  Crucifixion  was  carved  by  Mon- 
tane^, and  the  colossal  statues  of  SS. 
Peter  and  Paul  are  also  ascribed  to 
him.  The  Medina-Celi  family  have 
their  tombs  here  ;  they  are  very  fine, 
and  deserve  close  examination. 

In  the  chapel  of  the  Church  of  San 
Martin  are  some  early  pictures  by 
Herrera  el  Viejo,  mostly  indifferent 
A  fine  Saviour  bearing  his  Cross,  by 
Valdes.  The  azulejos  of  Chapel  de 
Gallejo,  built  1500,  repaired  1614,  are 
very  beautiful. 

Of  the  remaining  churches  of  Seville, 
the  most  noteworthy  are — the  monas- 
tery or  Sta.  Paula  (Jeronimita)  in  the 
street  of  that  name,  founded  1475  ;  see 
the  (separated)  western  fa^de,  with  its 
fine  azulejos,  its  artesonado  roof,  and 
statues  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  attributed 
to  Torrigiano ;  the  Church  of  the  Hos- 
pital de  las  Cinco  Llagas  (five  bleeding 
wounds),  close  by  the  Puerta  Macarena 
(see  p.  404) ;  San  Marcos,  in  the  Plaza 
San  Marcos,  with  good  early  pointed 
portico  and  Moorish  tower  ;  Santa 
Catalina  (close  by  San  Pedro)  with 
mudejar  capilla  mayor  and  Moorish 
roof,  and  the  convent  church  of  Sta. 
Ines,  with  the  tomb  of  the  foun- 
dress. 


The  Picture  -  Gallery  of  Seville 
was  the  former  Church  and  Convent  de 
la  Merced,  founded  in  1249  by  St  Fer- 
dinand, and  rebuilt  It  was  formed  in 
1838  by  the  care  of  Sr.  Bejarano,  a  dis- 


SEVILLE — PICTURE  -  GALLERY. 


397 


tinguished  painter  of  Seville,  who  was 
aided  by  voluntary  subscriptions.  The 
pictures  it  contains  were  saved  from 
destruction,  neglect,  and  bargains  by 
Dean  Cepero,  two  years  before  the  sup- 
pression of  convents,  and  after  their 
return  from  Gibraltar,  whither,  during 
the  French  invasion,  D.  Luis  Ordonez, 
a  patriotic  amateur,   had  sent  them. 

The  two  patios  are  fine.  Notice 
especially  the  azulejos  of  the  first, 
removed  here  from  the  convents, 
and  the  stone  relics,  arranged  in  the 
second. 

Admittance  daily  from  10  to  3  (from 
April  to  September  10  to  4).  There  is 
no  good  catalogue,  but  the  attendants 
(small  fee)  give  every  information,  and 
are  unobtrusive. 

This  picture-gallery,  the  finest  in 
Spain  after  that  of  Madrid,  is  especially 
rich  in  Murillos,  of  great  value  and 
good  preservation.  There  are  besides 
several  very  precious  Zurbarans,  Roelas, 
Vald^s,  etc.,  whose  authenticity  is  un- 
questionable. Murillo  has,  of  course, 
the  chief  post  of  honour,  and  here 
that  great  master  may  be  studied  to 
advantage.  Most  of  the  works  here 
he  painted  for  the  Capuchin  Convent, 
which  was  built  in  1627,  close  to 
Puerta  de  Cordoba,  and  finally  de- 
stroyed in  1835.  The  retablo  of  the 
high  altar  was  full  of  pictures  by  him, 
and  each  formed  a  sublime  page  of  one 
of  those  poems  called  retablos,  that 
were  inspired  in  the  noiseless  cloisters 
of  a  convent,  or  the  sombre  naves  of  a 
cathedral.  The  larger  painting  in  the 
centre  represented  a  mystic  episode  of 
the  life  of  San  Francisco,  and  is  gene- 
rally known  as  'The  Jubilee  of  the 
Porciuncula.'  On  the  sides,  and  as 
pendants,  were  hung,  to  the  right, 
Stas.  Justa  y  Rufina,  now  here  ;  on  the 
left,  San  Leandro  and  St.  Buenaventura, 
both  of  whose  grave  masculine  char- 
acter contrasted  with  the  soft  expres- 


sion of  the  two  Virgins.  Above  were 
placed  St  John  in  the  Desert,  and 
Joseph  and  the  Child  (both  here),  and 
over  them  the  half-sized  St.  Anthony 
and  St  Felix  of  Cantalicio  crowning 
the  composition  and  each  as  the  title 
of  the  two  open  pages.  Under  the 
central  painting  hung  the  charming 
Virgin  and  Child  of  which  there  are 
so  many  engravings  now  about  the 
world.  In  the  apse  of  that  church, 
Murillo  painted  the  first  and  last  page 
of  the  Gospel — viz.  The  Annunciation 
— all  brightness,  youth,  hope,  and  hea- 
venly bliss  at  the  forthcoming  birth  of 
Christ,  and  a  Mater  Dolorosa,  full  of 
the  deepest  feeling  of  woe  and  bereave- 
ment, sombre  melancholy,  a  painted 
'Stabat  Mater '  of  Rossini's.  The  rest 
of  the  paintings  were  distributed  in  dif- 
ferent chapels,  and  most  of  them  are 
to  be  seen  here. 

The  numbers  and  positions  of  the 
pictures  are  continually  undergoing 
change.  Look  for  the  following 
Murillos,  most  of  which  are  well 
hung  on  the  N.  wall,  facing  the 
entrance : — 

San  Agustin,  early,  face  not  very 
expressive. 

Adoration  of  Shepherds.     (No.  30.) 

San  Pedro  Nolasco,  of  inferior 
degree.   (No.  24). 

A  Concepcion,  small  size,  a  charm- 
ing picture,  worthy  of  Murillo's  ap- 
pellation, 'El  pintor  de  las  Concep- 
tions.'    (No.  85.) 

Virgen  de  Belem  (Bethlehem).  The 
Virgin's  mouth  pinched  up,  and  the 
Child  too  statuesque.  The  draperies 
hang  gracefully  about,  and  the  white 
linen  is  exquisitely  folded,  but  the 
colour  turning  to  blue.  Compare  this 
with  La  Vierge  au  Chapelet,  at  the 
Louvre. 

Annunciation.  The  colouring  very 
fine  ;  here  he  truly  paints,  as  was  said 
of  him,  '  con  leche  y  sangre.'    (No.  24.) 


398 


SEVILLE — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


The  tutelare  of  Seville,  Saints  Justa 
and  Rufina,  holding  the  Giralda  in 
their  hands.  Two  perfect  types  of 
the  lower  orders,  selected  at  Triana. 
Of  the  Calido  or  2d  style.  Accord- 
ing to  a  tradition,  they  supported  the 
Moorish  tower  when  a  tempest  was 
blowing  which  threatened  to  poll  it 
down.  It  is  painted  with  care,  and 
bean  tifhlly  coloured.  The  crockery,  jugs, 
etc.,  on  the  foreground,  are  still  those  seen 
in  every  market.    (South  wall,  No.  19.) 

No.  26.  His  large  Concepcion.  One 
of  his  finest.     ( '  De  la  luna. ') 

No.  28.  Santo  Tomas  de  Villanueva 
giving  alms.  From  the  Capuchin  Con- 
vent This  was  the  painter's  favourite 
picture,  which  he  called  'mi  cuadro.' 
'  It  was  very  much  admired  by  Wilkie, 
who  calls  it  one  of  the  finest  by  this 
master.'  ('Life  of  Wilkie,'  ii.  p.  514.) 
'  In  the  saint's  face  and  figure  there  is 
a  wonderful  union  of  dignity  and 
humility,  whilst  the  beggars  in  the 
front  are  admirable  for  truth  and  ex- 
pression ;  as,  for  instance,  the  boy  on 
the  left  showing  to  his  mother  the 
money  which  he  received'  (Sir  Ed. 
Head);  'and  she  looks  at  the  child 
as  lovingly  and  as  cheerful  as  if  she 
were  not  a  poor  beggar  woman'  (Mdme. 
Hahn-Hahn's  'Reisebriefe,'  ii  s.  132). 
The  kneeling  beggar  is  unrivalled.  It 
is  'la  nature  prise  sur  le  fait'  The 
colouring  is  warm  and  rich,  and  the 
composition  wonderful.  It  has,  we 
think,  only  another  pendant  to  com- 
pare to  it  among  all  the  works  of 
Murillo,  and  that  is  the  St  Elizabeth 
at  the  picture-gallery  of  San  Fernando, 
Madrid. 

Virgen  de  la  Servilleta  (or  Virgin  of 
the  Napkin),  so  called  because  said  to 
have  been  painted  on  a  dinner  napkin, 
aud  was  a  gift  to  the  cook  at  the 
convent  when  Murillo  worked  at  the 
Capuchinos  at  Cadiz.  The  drapery  is 
very  fine,  and  the  babe  belongs  to  that 


happy  race  of  tiny  mortals  described 
by  ladies  as  'perfect  darlings.'  The 
Virgin's  face  is  rather  sensual  than  ex- 
pressive of  ideality.  (No.  15,  south  walL) 

A  Concepcion.  The  cherubs  are 
represented  in  every  possible  attitude. 
The  colours,  especially  the  blues,  seem 
to  be  undergoing  a  slow  but  certain 
decomposition.     (No.  29,  south  wall) 

St.  Francis  embracing  the  crucified 
Saviour ;  belongs  to  the  3d  style  (vapor- 
oso);  a  magnificent  composition ;  deeply 
meditated  ;  carefully  executed  ;  full  of 
grandeur,  piety,  and  genius.  The  saint's 
countenance,  expressive  of  ecstatic  fer- 
vour and  reverential  awe,  is  admirably 
painted.     (No.  31.) 

San  Felix  de  Cantalicio,  with  the 
Infant  Jesus  in  his  arms.  The  Virgin 
is  leaning  forward  to  receive  him ; 
'  one  of  the  best  examples  of  Murillo's 
colouring,  and  vaporoso  style ;  the 
child  is,  perhaps,  Murillo's  best  niflo.' 
The  delicate  execution  and  colour  of 
this  great  work,  and  the  beauty  of 
the  Virgin's  figure,  make  it,  perhaps, 
superior  to  any  other  of  the  series ; 
certainly,  in  my  opinion,  superior  to  the 
St.  Anthony  in  the  cathedral.'  (Sir  Ed. 
Head.     'Hand.  Paint.')    (No.  27.) 

SS.  Leandro  and  Buenaventura ; 
classed  among  the  finest  of  the  masters 
by  Wilkie ;  an  exaggerated  praise  per- 
haps, for,  laying  aside  the  admirable 
treatment  of  the  drapery,  and  the 
expression,  attitude,  and  drawing  of 
the  saint  on  right  of  spectator,  the 
general  effect  is  not  powerful:  3d 
manner.    (South  wall,  No.  21.) 

St.  Joseph  and  the  Child.  A  novel 
treatment  of  the  Saint,  who  is  invari- 
ably represented  as  a  thin,  haggard 
old  man.  The  rich  browns  of  the 
capa  parda  contrast  admirably  with 
the  soft,  milky,  fair  hands  and  face  of 
the  child.  St  Joseph's  right  hand  is 
beautifuL    (No.  85,  N.  wall.) 

St.  John  the  Baptist ;  a  pendant  to 


SEVILLE — PICTURE  -  GALLERY. 


399 


former,  and  bearing  also  the  painter's 
effort  to  deviate  from  the  common 
type  of  this  saint.  The  expression  of 
fervour  is  admirably  rendered.  The 
lamb  is  finely  painted,  especially  for  a 
Spanish  painter,  no  great  observer  of 
animal  life.     (No.  34,  N.  wall.) 

St  Agustin. 

La  Piedad,  or  Virgin  and  Angels, 
and  a  Dead  Christ.  Great  feeling  in 
the  expression ;  the  Angels  pleasing. 

St.  Anthony  of  Padua.  Considered 
by  many  as  finer  than  the  St  Anthony 
at  the  cathedral.  The  saint's  head 
is  magnificent,  and  the  Child  indeed 
Godlike.  Go  as  close  to  it  as  possible, 
and  study  every  detail  of  the  saint's 
head,  for  it  is  a  wonder  of  painting — a 
towr  deforce.    (No.  32,  N.  wall.) 

Valdte  Leal. — The  Temptations  of 
St  Anthony ;  the  Assumption,  and  a 
Concepcion.  Three  very  fine  examples 
of  this  not  sufficiently  known  master, 
though  hardly  equal  to  the  Triumph 
of  Death  and  the  Dead  Prelate  in  La 
Caridad.  (S.  wall,  Nos.  1,  2,  3.) 

Zurbaran. — Apotheosis  of  St  Thomas 
Aquinas.  Carried  away  by  Soulfc,  and 
recovered  by  the  Duke  of  Wellington 
at  Waterloo.  It  is  considered  by  all  as 
that  painter's  masterpiece,  who  was 
called  the  Spanish  Caravaggio  ;  'but,' 
says  Sir  E.  Head,  '  the  Pieta  of  the 
Italian  master  in  the  Vatican,  though 
fine,  does  not  in  my  opinion  come  near 
it  Indeed,  there  are  few  pictures  in 
the  world  which  are  superior  to  it' 
The  composition  is  simple  but  appro- 
priate. Above  in  glory  are  represented 
the  Christ  and  Virgin,  with  St.  Paul 
and  St.  Dominic ;  and  below  is  St. 
Thomas  Aquinas  with  the  four  Doctors 
of  the  Latin  Church — Ambrose,  Angus- 
tin,  Jerome,  and  Gregory  (St  Thomas 
was  treated  as  the  fifth  Doctor  by  Pius 
V.  in  1568).  Nearest  of  all  kneel 
Charles  V.  and  Arch.  Deza,  the  founder 
of  the  college  of  Sto.  Tomas,  for  which 


it  was  painted  in  1625.  The  St  Tho- 
mas's head  is  a  portrait  of  D.  Agustin  de 
Escobar.  'A  superb  picture  which 
places  that  master  (Zurbaran)  next  to 
Murillo,  and  in  a  style  that  we  could 
wish  the  great  painter  of  Seville  had  in 
some  degree  followed.'  (*  Life  of 
Wilkie,'ii.  p.  529.)  'It  exhibits  the 
powerful  drawing  of  Caravaggio,  and  the 
rich  colouring  of  Titian,  and  is  certainly 
a  wonderful  work  of  art.'  (In  choir, 
No.  127.) 

San  Enrique  de  Sufon,  the  Padre 
Eterno,  San  Bruno  before  Urban  II., 
San  Luis  Bertram,  a  Saviour,  the 
Virgin  protecting  the  Monks,  and  San 
Hugo  in  the  Refectory.  They  are 
somewhat  injured,  but  still  very  fine. 

Pacheco. — San  Pedro  Nolasco. 

Juan  del  Castillo. — The  master  of 
Murillo  and  Cano.  Four  subjects  from 
Life  of  the  Virgin,  formerly  at  '  Monte 
Sion.'    (Nos.  77-80.) 

Herrera  el  Viejo. — San  Hermene- 
gildo  ;  very  Italian-like.  The  merit  of 
this  picture  procured  Philip  IV. 's  par- 
don for  a  forgery  he  had  been  guilty  of. 
It  has  been  retouched.  His  San 
Basilio  '  is  bold  and  Ribera-like ;  ob- 
serve the  kneeling  bishop  and  the 
handling  of  the  drapery,  for  in  it  is  the 
germ  of  Velazquez. '  (Ford. )  '  A  wild, 
grand  composition,  and  the  angel  in  the 
foreground  very  fine  ;  but  the  colour- 
ing of  this  picture  is  not  good.'  (Hos- 
kins,  ii.  p.  330.)    (No.  46.) 

Rodas.  — San  Andres ;  very  powerful 
and  Italian-like.     (No.  45,  end  wall.) 

Ctspedes. — A  Last  Supper ;  a  Christ, 
both  very  fine.     (No.  39.) 

ValdAs  Leal. — Several  subjects  from 
Life  of  St  Jerome,  formerly  at  the 
Geronimo  Convent. 

Fruiet. — Calvario,  Descent,  Virgin, 
Crucifixion,  formerly  at  Las  Bubas. 
They  are  his  best. 

Juan  de  Varela. — Battle  of  davijo, 
considered  very  fine. 


400 


SEVILLE— COLOMBINE   LIBRARY. 


Martin  de  Vos. — Last  Judgment ; 
fine,  and  very  celebrated  ;  formerly  at 
the  Augustine  Convent,  and  executed  in 
1570.  Pacheco,  page  201,  tells  us  that 
the  female  nudities  of  this  picture 
troubled  so  the  mind  of  the  priests 
during  mass  that  it  prevented  their  say- 
ing it  quietly  before  it ;  and  a  bishop 
who  had  been  in  the  Indies  declared  he 
would  rather  stand  a  hurricane  in  the 
Gulf  of  Bermuda  than  perform  mass 
again  opposite  to  it.  (No.  116,  north 
transept.) 

There  are  no  Velazquez',  though  Se- 
ville was  his  native  place  (the  one  re- 
presenting a  Friar  Begging  is  ascribed 
to  him,  and  is  very  much  injured) ;  no 
Canos  either,  strange  to  say,  nor  Luis 
de  Vargas.  The  minor  painters  of  the 
Sevillian  school  have  some  examples 
here.  The  best  are  by  Tobar,  Aranda, 
Mazzoni,  Ramuz,  Gonsalvo  Bilbao, 
etc. 

Sculpture. — In  the  patios  are  several 
fragments  of  statues,  columns,  etc., 
found  in  the  ruins  of  Italica.  They 
are  of  no  great  merit,  and  mostly  be- 
long to  the  period  of  decline  in  Roman 
art.  Nevertheless,  a  fine  head  of  a 
Minerva,  a  small  Venus,  soma  busts  of 
Roman  Emperors,  and  two  very  fine 
torsos,  belong,  according  to  some,  to  a 
more  flourishing  state  of  art.  The  in- 
scriptions are  unimportant.  One  in 
the  larger  patio  is  allusive  to  Val. 
Maximianus'  pacification  of  Bsetica 
and  another  to  Bacchus.  'Libero 
Patri  Sacr.,'  etc  At  the  entrance  is  a 
fine  iron  cross,  by  Sebastian  Conde, 
1692.  The  magnificent  Silleria,  by 
Cornejo,  once  at  the  Cartuga,  has  been 
finally  removed  to  the  cathedral  of 
Cadiz. 

By  MomiamAs. — A  fine  Sto.  Domingo, 
and  a  crucifix.    (S.  transept.) 

Scm  Brum. — Very  beautiful ;  placed 
recently  in  the  larger  room,  formerly 
the  church  itself. 


The  Four  Cardinal  Virtues. 

St.  John.    A  good  Virgin  and  Child. 

Torrigiano. — A  terra  cotta  St  Je- 
rome from  the  convent  of  Buena- Vista- 
He  was  the  author  of  the  screens  and 
sepulchre  of  Henry  VII.  at  Westminster 
Abbey,  and  the  rival  of  M.  Angelo. 
The  saint  is  represented  gazing  on  a 
cross,  whilst  he  is  holding  a  stone  with 
which  he  is  striking  his  breast  to  do 
penance.  The  anatomy  is  very  fine; 
the  expression  of  the  face  of  this  great 
and  holy  man  is  excellent.  (N.  transept.) 

Observe  in  the  Sala  de  Sesiones,  on 
the  left  before  entering  the  Salon  Prin- 
cipal, some  portraits  of  contemporaries 
of  Murillo,  painted  by  the  professors 
upon  election. 

Libraries. — Columbine,  Archives  of 
the  Indies,  De  la  Universidad. 

BIBLIOTECA    COLOMBINA. 
Admittance  free. 

Open  daily,  except  on  holidays,  from  xo  a.m.  to 
3  p.m.  In  the  months  of  June,  July,  August, 
September,  the  hours  are  from  8  to  12,  morning 
only.  The  director  is  styled  '  Ilustrfsimo  Sr. 
Bibliotecario  Capitular  de  la  Biblioteca  Colom- 
bina.'  The  employes  are  obliging,  but  not  well 
informed,  and  die  catalogue  is  very  second  rate. 

This  library  was  chiefly  formed  by 
the  legacy  of  Fernando  Colon,  son  of 
the  great  Christopher  Columbus.  He 
was  a  learned  scholar,  as  well  as  a  brave 
and  skilful  soldier,  accompanied  his 
father  and  uncle  Don  Diego  several 
times  to  America,  and  was  in  all  the 
wars  of  Italy,  Flanders,  and  Germany. 
His  projects  of  founding  academies, 
schools,  libraries,  were  most  excellent, 
but  he  died  without  realising  them,  and 
bequeathed  to  the  Chapter  his  private 
library  amounting  to  some  20,000 
volumes,  which  were  slowly  increased 
afterwards  to  their  present  number, 
30,000,  but  through  neglect,  worms, 
and  insects  of  all  sorts,  Columbus'  own 
set  of  books  are  now  reduced  to  10,000. 
Among  other  curious  books,  collected 


SEVILLE — UNIVERSITY   LIBRARY. 


401 


by  him  in  all  parts  of  the  world  are : 
a  '  Divina  Commedia, '  contemporary  of 
Dante;  the  'Tesoro,'  a  translation  of 
that  written  by  Dante's  master,  Bru- 
nette Latini ;  the  '  Misal  del  Cardinal 
Mendoza,'  of  15th  century,  full  of 
curious  and  beautiful  illuminations. 
See  especially  the  Death  of  Christ. 
The  Pontifical,  in  folio  (in  stand  or 
table  No.  149),  of  1390,  ought  to  be 
carefully  studied  by  those  who  wish 
to  become  acquainted  with  the  dresses, 
furniture,  buildings,  arms,  and  ships, 
etc.,  of  that  period,  which  are  referred 
to  in  its  numerous  cuts.  The  illumi- 
nations of  the  '  Misal  Hispalense ' 
(No.  12),  folio  of  14th  to  15th  century, 
especially  the  capital  letters,  are  glo- 
rious. See  also  miniature  illustration  by 
Guillen  de  Urrea  in  the  Evangelistario, 
folio  (table  1 46,  No.  6). 

The  MSS.  relating  to  the  history  of 
Spain  and  of  the  locality  are  not  very 
important.  For  those  on  this  city,  see 
end  of  Sevill  e.  There  is  interesting  MS. 
poetry  of  Dante,  Petrarco,  Cecco  d'As- 
coli,  etc.  Of  Columbus  himself  there 
is  but  little  here,  and  what  there  is 
has  already  been  published  by  Nava- 
rette  and  Irving,  etc.  Amongst  others 
is  the  'Tractatus  de  Imagine  Mundi' 
of  Cardinal  Pierre  d'Ailly,  published 
in  1480,  at  Louvain.  It  contains  all 
the  information  of  Ptolemy,  Aristotle, 
Pliny,  etc.,  on  the  form  of  the  world. 
Columbus  copied  it  with  his  own  hand 
and  added  notes,  which  are  not  impor- 
tant. There  is  also  a  tract  written  by 
him  to  satisfy  the  Inquisition,  and  de- 
claring that  his  discovery  was  pre- 
dicted in  the  Scriptures.  Documents 
relative  to  him  and  his  journeys  may 
be  looked  for  at  the  Archivo  de  Indias 
here,  at  Madrid,  at  Duke  d'Osuna's 
and  Duke  de  Veragua's  libraries,  at  Bib- 
lioteca  de  la  Historia,  Madrid,  etc.,  but 
the  most  valuable  are  no  doubt  locked 
up  at  the  Vatican.    His  letters  have  been 


admirably  translated  by  Mr.  Major. 
*  Select  Letters  of  Christopher  Colum- 
bus,' etc.  London,  1857.  Hackluyt 
Society,  vol.  i.  8.  The  portraits  above 
the  book-shelves  are  all  of  archbishops 
of  Seville.  .  Notice,  besides,  a  physician 
(Francisco  Bonifaz),  by  A.  Cano,  and 
an  inferior  Murillo,  San  Fernando.  On 
the  staircase  i3  the  tomb  of  Inigo  Men- 
doza (1497).  In  Cuarto  de  los  Sub- 
sidios  is  a  Piedad  by  Juan  Nunez.  In 
the  Sala  de  la.Hermandad  del  Santfsimo 
is  a  Dispute  of  the  Sacrament,  by  Her- 
rera  the  younger,  and  others  by  Arteaga ; 
the  Infant  Saviour  is  by  Montafids. 

See,  in  the  second  salon  of  the 
library,  the  sword  of  Fernan  Gonzalez, 
used  after  his  death  by  Perez  de  Vargas, 
formerly  in  the  San  Telmo  palace,  and 
described  upon  p.  403. 

Senor  D.  Aurel  Feraaz.  Guerra  found 
out  quite  recently,  in  the  Columbine, 
a  very  valuable  MS.  It  is  registered 
A,  141-4,  and  with  the  title,  No.  4, 
Poesias,  Palacio,  Varia;  MSS.  T.  4. 
The  contents  have  been  published  in 
an  appendix  to  the  interesting  and 
important  bibliographical  work,  'En- 
sayo  de  una  biblioteca  Espafiola  de 
Libros  raros  y  curiosos,'  by  Messrs. 
Zarco  del  Valle  and  Rayon  from  notes 
by  Gallardo,  a  judicious  book-worm. 
They  consist  of  a  long,  admirable  letter 
of  Cervantes  to  a  friend,  on  the  Fiesta 
of  San  Juan  de  Alfarache.  Two  charm- 
ing entremeses  by  Cervantes ;  one  en- 
titled '  La  Carcel  de  Sevilla,'  the  other 
'El  Hospital  de  los  Podridos,'  and  a 
'Relation  de  la  Carcel  de  Sevilla,'  by  the 
same,  abounding  in  most  valuable  infor- 
mation, as  illustrating  his  and  Quevedo's 
works,  besides  seven  'romances,'  etc., 
and  an  Opusculo  by  Gutierre  de  Cetina. 

University  Library. — Open  daily, 
except  on  holidays  (admittance  free), 
same  hours,  etc.,  as  for  Columbine. 
This  library,  now  amounting  to  some 
D 


402 


SEVILLE — SAN   TELMO. 


60,000  volumes,  was  formed  by  Senores 
Villa  and  Cepero  with  books  proceeding 
from  the  Jesuits  and  suppressed  con- 
vents. In  1846,  the  important  one  of 
the  Colego  Mayor  de  Maese  Rodrigo 
was  added  to  the  fund,  and  a  year  after 
that  of  San  Acasia.  It  is  situated  in 
the  ground  floor  of  the  University  Build- 
ing, and  the  Reading-Room  is  about 
150  ft.  long.  The  catalogue,  rara  avis 
in  this  land,  is  very  well  got  up  and 
classified.  There  are  several  very  im- 
portant MSS.  relative  to  ecclesiastical 
history,  fueros,  charts,  chronicles,  classic 
authors,  theology,  numismatics,  etc. 

Archivo  de  Indias  (in  Lonja)  is  a  most 
important  collection  of  documents  on 
the  West  Indies.  It  was  formed  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  III.,  who  ordered,  in 
1781,  that  all  the  papers  extant  at 
Simancas,  relative  to  America,  that  had 
already  been  collected  in  1778,  should 
be  sent  to  Seville,  where  they  were 
placed  in  the  Consulado  or  Lonja. 
The  fine  Doric  mahogany  book- cases 
were  begun  by  his  orders  ;  the  Seville 
Inquisitor  Lara  classified  the  papers, 
and  Cean  Bermudez  put  them  in  order. 
There  are  some  30,000  legajos,  or 
docketed  bundles,  arranged  into  the 
eleven  audiencias  into  which  Spain  and 
America  were  divided,  including  Fili- 
pinas.  Each  audiencia  is  divided  into 
the  secular  and  ecclesiastical  branches  ; 
and  those  under  the  name  of  the  autho- 
rities, corporation,  and  individuals  who 
are  the  object  of  them,  arranged  chrono- 
logically ;  several  other  bundles,  un- 
classifiable,  are  collected  under  the  name 
of  Indiferentes.  The  indices,  alpha- 
betically drawn  up,  etc.,  are  in  great 
order.  The  archivero  and  oficiales  most 
civil,  and  all  facilities  to  copy,  investi- 
gate, etc.,  readily  granted.  The  con- 
tents are  very  important  for  the  History 
of  Spain,  that  of  the  Colonies,  that  of 
South  America,  the  Slave-Trade,  etc 
The  author  of  the  last  valuable  work 


on  the  Slave-Trade  has  derived  much 
useful  information  from  these  archives. 
'The  Spanish  Conquest  of  America  and 
its  relation  to  the  History  of  Slavery  and 
the  Government  of  Colonies,'  by  A. 
Helps,  3  vols.  8vo.  London,  1855-57. 
They  are  nevertheless  still  very  little 
known,  and  deserve  investigation. 
Among  the  curiosities  are :  The  ori- 
ginal treaty  between  the  Cathedral 
singers  and  Columbus,  dated  at  Santa 
Fe,  close  to  Granada.  A  letter,  written 
by  Pizarro's  secretary,  in  his  name,  as 
the  discoverer  of  Peru  knew  better 
how  to  wield  a  sword  than  handle  a 
pen.  His  conventions  with  Almagro, 
who  was  as  ignorant,  are  drawn  up  by 
Juan  de  Panes  and  Alvaro  del  Quico. 
The  papers  signed  Bart  de  los  Casas, 
the  slaves'  advocate,  as  he  styles  him- 
self, '  El  Procurador  de  los  Indios, '  will 
be  found  interesting.  There  is  a  curious 
petition  of  Cervantes  in  which  he  asks  for 
a  reward  or  compensation  for  the  hand 
he  had  lost  at  Lepanto.  Philip  1 1,  writes 
on  the  margin,  disdainfully  referring 
the  matter  to  the  Consejo  de  Indias. 
The  few  pictures  here  are  indifferent. 

Palace  of  San  Telmo.  —  A  most 
charming  residence,  for  long  the 
Sevilla  home  of  the  Montpensier 
family,  surrounded  by  spacious  gardens 
full  of  orange  trees,  citrons  and  rare 
plants  ;  left  by  the  late  Duchess  to  be 
turned  into  a  seminary  for  priests  in 
place  of  the  Puerta  de  Jerez  school — a 
bequest  which  it  is  to  be  hoped  will 
not  be  carried  out.  The  building 
was  erected  about  1681  for  Charles  II., 
who  destined  it  for  a  school  for  the 
navy,  which  it  continued  to  be  till 
1849,  when  the  Queen  caused  it  to 
be  given  to  her  sister,  the  Duchesse 
de  Montpensier.  It  has  been  con- 
siderably altered  and  improved,  and 
the  long  facade  to  the  gardens  is 
of  great  taste  and  elegance.  The 
principal  facade  is,  like  the  rest, 
churrigueresque,   and   decorated  with 


SEVILLE — THE  LONJA. 


403 


marbles,  etc.  At  present  (1898)  it  is 
impossible  to  gain  admittance  to  either 
palace  or  grounds,  but  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  the  restrictions  will  be  again  re- 
moved. Among  the  curiosities  figures 
a  sword  of  Pedro  el  Cruel,  but  many 
of  the  relics— such  as  the  guitar  of 
Queen  Isabel  Famesio  —  have  been 
taken  to  San  Lucar.  The  famous 
sword  which  belonged  first  to  the 
Conde  Fernan  Gonzalez,  and  then  to 
Garcia  Perez  de  Vargas,  who  contri- 
buted to  the  capture  of  Seville,  under 
St.  Ferdinand,  now  stands  in  the 
Colomb.  Library.  The  old  inscription 
at  its  foot  is  by  way  of  a  monologue  pro- 
nounced by  the  sword  itself,and  ends: — 

Soy  la  octava  maravilla. 
En  cortar  moras  gargantas 
Non  sabrl  decir  cuantas. — 
Mas  s6  que  gan6  a  Sevilla. 

There  is  a  fine  clock  and  candelabra 
by  Benvenuto  Cellini.  There  are  some 
good  pictures. 

The  chefs -d'amvres  of  the  Picture 
Gallery  comprise,  a  Piedad  by  Mor- 
ales ;  saints  by  Herrera  el  Viejo ;  four 
subjects  of  Life  of  Christ — Nativ- 
ity, Circumcision,  Annunciation,  and 
Adoration — by  Zurbaran,  fine,  especi- 
ally the  last,  which  is  admirably 
composed ;  a  Sketch  by  Valdes  Leal ; 
a  Martyrdom  by  Ribera ;  repulsive, 
but  full  of  vigour  and  good  colour- 
ing. By  Murillo,  a  beautiful  Virgen 
de  la  Faja;  the  Virgin's  face  is  all 
love  and  tenderness ;  it  was  sold  to 
Louis  Philippe  by  a  Seville  nobleman, 
the  Conde  del  Aguila,  for  £3000.  By 
Orrente,  several  Landscapes  with  ani- 
mals, fine  specimens  of  his  style.  A 
Hare,  by  Meneses;  and  a  charming 
picture,  Ladies  looking  out  of  a  Bal- 
cony, by  Goya.  By  foreign  painters 
we  have  seen  a  'Holy  Family,'  by  Seb. 
del  Piombo,  powerfully  drawn ;  a 
portrait  by  Grecco ;  a  Rubens ;  SS. 
Peter  and    Paul,   by    Frutet,    highly 


finished,  good  attitudes,  colouring  fine; 
a  Van  Ostade,  full  of  life ;  a  Jewess, 
by  Lehman  ;  a  prettily-finished  Posada 
Aragonesa,  by  the  French  living  painter, 
A.  Leleux,  etc.  etc.  A  large  portion  of 
the  lovely  gardens  has  been  generously 
given  by  the  Duchess  of  Montpensier 
to  the  city,  to  form  a  new  boulevard 
and  public  park  (Parque  Mm-ia  Luisa), 

Town  Hall  {Oasas  Consistoriales  and 
CapUulares). — A  very  fine  example  of 
the  plateresque.  The  building  was 
commenced  about  the  beginning  of 
16th  century,  and  finished  1566.  The 
upper  and  lower  galleries,  with  arches 
and  columns,  and  the  three  different 
fronts  or  facades  at  right  angles,  date, 
the  former  from  Philip  II.,  and  the 
latter,  which  has  still  a  purer  plater- 
esque style  about  it,  from  Charles  V. 
The  central  facade  is  the  principal. 
Over  the  balcony  are  the  statues  of 
San  Fernando  and  Saints.  The  facade 
to  the  left  is  unfinished.  That  to  the 
right,  towards  Plaza  de  San  Fran- 
cisco, is  the  best,  though  not  finished 
also.  The  great  characteristic  about 
this  most  elegant  Renaissance  palace 
lies  in  the  rich  ornamentation  of 
medallions,  pilasters,  archivaults, 
friezes,  so  detailed  and  so  delicately 
chiselled  as  it  were.  They  are  as- 
cribed to  Berruguete  the  elder.  In 
the  interior  the  Sala  Capitular,  baja 
and  alta,  the  staircase  and  hall,  are  all 
in  good  style.  Observe  their  arteso- 
nado  ceilings,  the  genii,  griffins,  ser- 
pents, etc,  sculptured  in  the  staircase, 
and  its  elegant  plateresque  boveda. 
The  archives  contain  some  documents 
relative  to  public  festivities,  historical 
ceremonies,  local  events,  etc. 

The  Exchange  (I/mja).  —  Merch- 
ants originally  had  a  portion  of  the 
Alcazar  expressly  allotted  to  them, 
called  still  '  La  Contratacion ;'  but  the 
semi-Moro  Spaniard  man  of  business 
always  endeavours  to  live  in  the  streets 


404 


SEVILLE. 


and  for  a  long  time  they  repaired,  in- 
stead, to  the  cool  patio  of  the  Oranges 
(cathedral). 

In  1572  the  Archbishop  of  Seville, 
Rojas,  asked  Philip  II.  to  do  away 
with  the  abuse,  and  to  build  a  special 
edifice  like  the  Rjyal  Exchange  at 
London,  which  had  been  recently 
erected  by  Gresham.  Herrera  made 
the  designs ;  and  the  Lonja,  begun  in 
1585,  was  finished  1598,  under  the 
immediate  orders  of  Juan  de  Minjares, 
after  the  classic  style  then  very  pre- 
valent, with  which  Minjares,  who  had 
worked  at  the  Escorial,  was  well 
acquainted.  The  building  forms  a 
perfect  square,  the  facades  are  high, 
denuded,  symmetrical,  with  Tuscan 
pillars,  a  heavy  cornice,  ornamented 
with  the  usual  stone  balls,  and  square 
windows  all  alike.  It  is  a  monotonous 
mass  of  brick  and  stone — very  much 
admired  by  the  Sevillanos,  with  their 
usual  ponderacion ;  but  cold,  heavy, 
and  of  the  barrack-manufactory  ap- 
pearance. The  interior  contains  a 
noble  patio  with  two  galleries.  The 
Tribunal  of  Commerce  and  Archives 
of  West  Indies  are  also  here.  From 
the  Terrado,  or  terraced  roof  of  the 
Lonja,  the  view  of  Seville  is  fine  and 
extensive. 

Archbishop's  Palace. — Situated  E.  of 
Cathedral ;  close  to  the  Giralda.  The 
former  palace  was  behind  the  Chapel 
de  la  Antigua  (cathedral),  and  close  to 
the  Lonja.  The  present  one,  built  in 
17th  century,  is  very  spacious,  with 
large  patios  and  rooms  hung  with 
brocade,  tapestry,  etc. ;  but  the  style,  a 
bastard  plateresque,  bordering  on  the 
barroco,  is  very  inferior,  and  the  orna- 
mentation heavy  and  in  bad  taste. 

The  Tobacco  Manufactory. — Fabrica 
de  Tabacos  is  a  little  out  of  the  way, 
and  deserves  a  visit  The  building 
itself  is  very  extensive,  with  twenty- 
eight  patios  and  numberless  oficinas, 


galleries,  etc.  It  was  designed  by 
Vandembeer,  finished  in  1757,  and  cost 
about  £370,000.  The  style  is  not 
wanting  in  grandeur,  and  the  effect  is 
very  imposing.  Its  area  measures 
662  ft.  long  by  524  ft.  wide,  and  60  ft. 
high.  The  cigar  and  snuff  manufac- 
turing is  carried  on  on  a  very  large 
scale ;  5000  persons  and  above  are 
usually  employed — mostly  women  ; 
and  3,000,000  lbs.  are  produced  in 
the  year.  The  cigarreras  of  Seville 
form  a  special  class,  like  the  grisettes 
of  Bordeaux  and  Bayonne ;  they  are 
generally  pretty — dress  for  the  bull- 
fight, and  undress  for  the  workshop- 
are  very  descaradas,  puff  a  puro,  etc. 
The  polvo  de  Sevilla  and  tabaco  de 
fraile  is  a  particular  rappee  snuff,  not 
so  good  as  that  of  La  Civette  at  Paris  ; 
but  ground  to  imperceptible  dust  and 
slightly  coloured  red  or  yellow  with  the 
Almagro  earth,  and  others.  [Admis- 
sion, morning  and  afternoon ;  closed 
12-2  o'clock.  Fee  of  1  pes.  to  guide,  and 
small  fee,  say  25c,  to  each  forewoman.] 

The  Cam  de  Afoneda  (Mint).— It 
was  founded  in  1310.  The  building 
was  entirely  renewed  in  1704;  it  is 
classic,  heavy,  and  indifferent.  The 
Custom  House,  Audiencia,  and  other 
public  government  establishments,  are 
modern  and  indifferent.  Seville  is 
thriving,  and  several  manufactories  are 
being  set  up ;  amongst  them  is  La  Car- 
tuja  (potteries  :  see  Environs),  a  fabrica 
de  refrescos,  a  cannon  foundry,  etc. 

-  Hospital  de  la  Sangre  (or  de  las  cinco 
llagaSy  of  the  five  bleeding  wounds  of 
our  Saviour). — It  was  erected  in  1546 
by  Gainza  and  Hernan  Ruiz,  and  its 
architectural  merit  is  great.  It  belongs 
to  the  classical  style,  and  the  south 
facade  (the  principal  one)  is  some  600 
ft.  long.  The  portal  is  very  fine  and 
the  patio  excellent  The  chapel  in  the 
centre  has  the  shape  of  a  Latin  cross, 
and  is  decorated  with  good  allegorical 


SEVILLE — THE  ALCAZAR. 


405 


medallions  by  Pedro  Machuca.  There 
are  some  notable  Zurbarans  here — eight 
full-length  figures  of  female  saints — and 
three  splendid  paintings  by  Roelas,  the 
Coming  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  a  Deposition, 
and  Apotheosis  of  San  Hermengildo. 
The  Alcazar  (admission  11-4 ; 
permit  office  in  the  Patio  de  las 
Banderas)  is  a  portion  of  the  former 
Moorish  palace  erected  when  Seville 
became  an  independent  kingdom,  and 
of  which  the  Salon  de  Embajadores, 
although  subsequently  modified,  is  an 
example.  The  style  adopted  was  the 
purely  Moorish,  which,  under  the  Almo- 
hades,  was  preserved  in  this  hall ;  the 
present  beautiful  horseshoe  arch  at  its 
entrance  by  the  principal  patio  was 
added  by  them.  These  works  were 
commenced  in  1181,  by  the  Toledan 
architect  Jalubi.  Of  the  primitive 
Moorish  period  is  also  the  ultra  semi- 
circular arched  hall  of  Embajadores 
and  its  doors,  portion  of  the  narrow 
staircase  leading  from  the  patio  to 
the  upper  gallery  and  issuing  close 
to  the  choir  of  the  chapel,  and  the 
three  arches  supported  by  capitals  in  a 
room  close  to  that  of  El  Principe. 
The  extent  of  this  group  of  palaces 
(*  Alcazar es'  on  the  Moorish  inscriptions 
of  the  facade)  was  formerly  greater 
than  now.  It  then  formed  a  regular 
triangle.  The  present  Puerta  de  Jerez 
was  the  principal  entrance  ;  it  was  sur- 
rounded by  thick  walls  with  towers,  of 
which  portions  only  remain,  and  of 
which  the  Torre  del  Oro  formed  one  of 
the  defences  by  the  river-side  (the  wall 
joining  the  Alcazar  to  the  latter  tower 
was  demolished  in  1821).  St.  Ferdi- 
nand lodged  in  it  when  he  captured 
Seville,  and  the  Infantes  Don  Alfonso 
and  de  Molina  lived  in  the  Torre  de  Oro 
and  Torre  de  Plata.  Don  Pedro  el  Cruel 
embellished  it  and  rebuilt  whole  por- 
tions of  it ;  Juan  II.  repaired  the  Hall 
of  Ambassadors ;  the  Catholic  kings 


built  a  chapel ;  and  Charles  V.  added 
several  rooms,  galleries,  and  the  present 
gardens ;  Philip  III.  made  the  apeadero; 
Philip  V.  the  armeria,  etc.  Pedro  el 
Cruel  began  the  rebuilding  of  it  in 
1353,  and  it  was  finished  in  1364  by 
architects  brought  from  Granada,  and 
the  Mudejar  style  was  then  adopted. 
There  were  several  entrances,  but  the 
two  principal  ones  are  those  to  the  N. 
that  lead  to  the  Patios  de  las  Banderas, 
and  de  la  Monteria.  Patio  de  las  Ban- 
deras.— Over  the  entrance  door  on  the 
left  is  a  small  retablo,  with  a  Concep- 
cion  and  Saints.  This  open  court,  which 
derives  its  name  because  the  colours 
are  hoisted  here  when  the  king  resides, 
is  very  large,  and  is  formed  by  several 
indifferent  private  houses,  the  last  to 
the  left  being  that  inhabited  by  the  sub- 
governor  of  the  Alcazar,  El  Teniente  de 
Alcaide,  to  whom  apply  for  permission 
to  visit  the  palace  and  gardens.  A  gal- 
lery or  portico,  supported  by  columns, 
and  built  by  Philip  III.,  called  El  A- 
peadero  (the  landing-place),  is  now 
traversed,  and  the  Patio  de  la  Monteria 
— so  called  because  round  it  were  lodged 
the  king's  body-guard,  the  Monteros  de 
Espifiosa — is  reached,  and  then  we  enter 
into  the  larger  one  where  the  principal 
facade  of  the  palace  is  placed.  At  one 
extremity  is  the  Puerta  del  Leon,  erect- 
ed 1540,  so  called  from  the  lion  painted 
over  it,  with  a  lance  and  a  cross,  and 
the  motto,  'Ad  Utrumque.'  In  a 
corner  of  the  Patio  de  las  Banderas,  the 
king  Don  Pedro  el  Cruel,  who  sought 
to  be  styled  el  Justiciero,  held  his  tri- 
bunal, seated  on  a  stone-wrought  throne. 
This  custom,  adopted  by  that  ardent 
admirer  of  the  Moors,  whose  sovereigns 
always  followed  it,  was  continued  by 
his  successors  Juan  I.  and  Henrique  III. 
As  to  the  equity  shown  in  these  public 
audiences  towards  the  subjects  who 
came  to  complain  of  grievances,  the 
'  Rimado  de  Palacio,'  ascribed  to  Lope* 


406 


SEVILLE — THE  ALCAZAR. 


de  Ayala  (MS.  at  Library  of  El  Escorial; 
see  Madrazo's  '  Seville, '  in  the  '  ColL 
de  Recuerdos  y  Bellezas,'  etc.)  leaves  no 
doubt  The  vassal  complains  of  not 
having  received  his  military  pay,  of 
having  had  to  sell  his  horses  and  pawn 
his  arms  ;  on  which  the  king  turns  his 
back  and  orders  his  supper,  and  the  end 
of  it  is  '  Levantome  muy  triste  con  boca 
muy  amarga.'  In  the  Sala  de  Justicia, 
which  is  one  of  the  rooms  of  the  original 
palace,  the  Alcaldes  held  their  tribunal. 
The  grand  facade  glitters  with  gold  and 
vivid  colours,  the  pillarets  are  all  of 
precious  marbles.  Observe  the  lions  and 
castles  on  the  interlaced  archwork  over 
the  door.  The  square  cupola  of  the 
Sala  del  Principe  overhangs  the  facade, 
decorated  with  diminutive  archlets  and 
azulejo  work,  finishing  in  a  point  and 
crowned  with  a  spear,  with  globes  all 
gilt.  The  style  of  this  facade  is  Alham- 
braic  and  a  magnificent  example  of  the 
purest  Almohade  period.  It  was  cruelly 
whitewashed  in  1813,  with  the  rest  of 
the  buildings,  but  the  whitewash  was 
taken  off,  and  all  the  Alcazar  repaired 
recently  by  Mr.  Becquer  and  Colonel 
Rotalde,  at  the  expense  of  the  Due  de 
Montpensier,  and  at  the  cost  of  nearly 
£10,000.  The  repairs  have  been  done 
with  little  taste,  in  a  paltry  manner, 
and  very  awkwardly  executed.  The 
gilding  and  painting  are  disgraceful,  and 
many  of  the  azulejos  are  merely  painted 
walls  imitating  them,  and  this  in  a  city 
where  manufactories  of  them  abound. 
The  Duke  of  Montpensier  lived  here 
some  time  after  his  marriage,  and  the 
ex-Queen  Isabella  has  made  the  place 
more  or  less  her  residence,  to  the 
delight  of  Sevillian  beggars  and 
tradesfolk.  (AT.  B. — During  any  royal 
sojourn  it  is  difficult  to  see  any  but 
the  lower  portions  of  the  Alcazar.) 
On  the  facade  is  an  inscription  in 
Gothic  characters  bearing  the  date 
(1364)    of    the    rebuilding    of    the 


Alcazar  under  Don  Pedro.  The  entrance 
through  paltry  corridors,  is  a  modern 
idea,  and  a  very  poor  one,  blocking  up, 
by  means  of  a  wall,  the  view  of  the 
Patio  de  las  Donccllas.  This  magnificent 
court  is  surrounded  by  fifty-two  marble 
columns,  of  which  forty  are  in  pairs,  an 
exceptional  feature  in  Moorish  archi- 
tecture, of  which  the  Court  of  Lions  in 
the  Alhambra  is  another  example.  Why 
it  is  called  *  de  las  Doncellas '  is  not 
known  ;  some  have  said,  erroneously, 
that  it  was  derived  from  the  tribute  of 
the  hundred  maidens,  imposed  by  Mau- 
regato,  and  paid  to  the  khalif  of  Cor- 
dova.   The  very  fact  destroys  the  asser- 
tion, for  the  capital  of  the  Audalusian 
khalifate  was  Cordova,  and  Seville  had 
no  palace  till  the  11th  century  ;  the  one 
in  which  Abdul-Azis  lived  being  sup* 
posed  to  have  been  situated  on  the  Pradc 
de  Sta.  Justa,  on  the  site  of  the  church 
of  Stas.  Justa  y  Rufina,  at  the  door  of 
which  he  erected  a  mosque,  where  he 
died  (see  Madrazo,  ut  supra,  from  trans- 
lation of  the  Arab  historian,  Ben  Alcu- 
teyya,  by  Sr.  Gayangos).     This  court 
dates  of  14th  century,  as  may  be  seen 
by  the  Mudejar  ornamentation  of  its 
cabinets  {aloharias).     The  two  doors, 
especially  that  of  the  Carlos  V.  Salon, 
its    azulejos    (here    original,    though 
rehechos  in  1857),    the    truly -termed 
celosias  (celos,  jealousy),  so  minutely 
worked,  are  very  Moorish.     That  this 
court   was    relatively   modernised   in 
1569  is  evidenced  by  the  trophies  and 
escutcheons  of  Don  Pedro,  the  arms  of 
the    Catholic    kings,    the    pillars   of 
Hercules,  and  the  proud  motto  'plus 
ultra'  invented  by  Charles  V.'s  doctor, 
Luis    Marliano,    and    so    true    after 
Columbus  going  beyond  and  thus  ren- 
dering vain  Hercules',  that  is,  the  Phoe- 
nicians' goal  of  the  world.    All  the 
upper  portion  is  Ionic,  and  designed  by 
Luis    de  Vega,   in  the  bramantesque 
gusto,  for  the  marriage  of  Charles  V. 
with  Isabella  of  Portugal. 


J 


SEVILLE — THE  ALCAZAR. 


407 


Salon    de    Embajadores.  —  Passing 
now  through  the  Salem  de  Carlos  V. 
(note  its  splendid  ceiling  and  azalejos) 
and  the  Sala  de  Maria  Padilla,  where 
was  born,  in  1848,  the  Infanta  Maria 
Isabel — we  arrive  at  the  Embajadores, 
with  its  three  vestibules  communicating 
by    fine    Moorish   arches.      The    W. 
entrance  (Comedor)  is  the  richest  in 
its  ornamentation  of  birds,  etc.     The 
capitals  are  of  different  styles  of  the 
Moorish  ;  and  there  is  an  odd  mixture 
of  the  Berber,  Arabic,  Mudejar,  Gothic, 
and  even   Bevival   styles,  productive 
of  doubtful  effect.     The  media  naranja, 
or  cupola,  is  of  admirable  shape  and 
work,  and  was  repaired  and  embellished 
under   Juan    II.    by  Diego    Ruiz    in 
1427.       The    ogival    upper    portion, 
probably    done    under    the    Catholic 
kings,  has  the  trefoil  ornament  and 
the  fleur  de  lys.     The  series  of  por- 
traits of  the  kings  of  Spain,  from  Chin- 
dasvinthus  to  Philip  III.,  was  begun 
under  the  Catholic  kings,  and  finished 
with  the  latter.    In  this  room  Charles 
V.  was  married  to  Isabella  of  Portugal. 
The  four  balconies,  unfortunately  oat 
of  keeping  with  the  rest,  were  added  by 
the  Austrian  sovereigns,  and  were  for- 
merly agimeces.    In  this  hall  it  was  that 
Don  Pedro  received  the  suppliant  Rey 
Bermejo  (the  Red  King,  the  Lagus  of 
Spanish  ballads  and   usurper  of  the 
throne  of  Ismael  II.  of  Granada),  who 
came  with  great  pomp,  a  guard  of  500 
Moors,  and  his  unparalleled  collection 
of  jewels;  upon  seeing  which  Don  Pedro, 
who  was  a  great  amateur  of  gems,  in- 
vited him  to  a  banquet,  and  treacher- 
ously sent  him  two  days  after  to  Tabla- 
da,  where  he  was  made  a  target  for  the 
Spanish  knights  and  their  king,  who, 
according  to  the  ballad — 

Tirole  al  moro  una  lanza, 
El  propio  con  la  su  mano : 
Parole  de  parte  en  parte, 
Lo  que  a  rey  no  era  dado. 


D.  Pedro  obtained  possession  of  the 
jewels,  amongst  which  was  the  largest 
ruby  in  the  world,  now  belonging 
to  the  Crown  of  England,  and  given 
to  the  Black  Prince  by  D.  Pedro  after 
the  battle  of  Navarrete.  In  the  next 
room,  Patio  de  las  Muilecas,  Don  Pedro 
caused  his  brother  Don  Fadrique, 
who  had  been  invited  by  him  to 
come  and  see  the  tournaments,  to  be 
murdered.  The  ballad  on  this  subject, 
found  in  Duran's  collection,  is  very  cha- 
racteristic of  that  time,  from  which  it 
dates  (though  handled  and  remodelled 
in  the  16th  century),  and  begins — 

Yo  me  estaba  alia  en  Coimbra. 

The  event  took  place  May  19,  1358. 
As  for  the  stains  of  blood  remaining 
on  the  marble  pavement,  and  shown  to 
the  traveller  as  the  vestiges  of  that 
latter  crime,  they  are  nothing  but  fer- 
ruginous spots,  like  those  shown  all 
over  the  world;  as,  for  instance,  the 
blood  of  Rizzio  at  Holyrood,  the  blood 
of  the  Abencerrages  at  the  Alhambra, 
and  the  like  at  the  Hague,  Rome,  etc. 
The  name  of  Las  Munecas  (the  pup- 
pets, dolls)  is  quite  modern,  and  the 
origin  ignored.  The  style  of  this  room 
is  most  Alhambraic.  The  capitals  of 
the  slender,  airy,  marble  pillars,  are 
very  pure,  said  by  some  to  be  in  style 
similar  to  the  oldest  in  the  mosque  of 
Cordoba,  and  are  most  elegantly  shaped, 
while  the  walls,  double  galleries,  etc. 
are  all  ornamented  with  the  most . 
delicate  lacework  in  stucco. 

Grouped  around  these  principal  salas 
— the  Embajadores  and  the  Munecas — 
are  several  smaller  rooms,  beginning 
from  the  principal  facade  to  S.W.,  and 
finishing  at  the  other  extremity  S.E. 
of  the  Patio  de  las  Doncellas,  where 
were  the  private  apartments  of  the 
fair  and  ill-fated  Maria  de  Padilla. 
These  rooms  are,   the  Quarto  de  los 


403 


SEVILLE — THE  ALCAZAR. 


Principes,  the  Dormitorio  de  Isabella, 
the  Comedor  and  the  Maria  Padilla ; 
while  on  the  N.  of  the  Doncellas  lies 
the1  Dormitorio  de  los  Reyes  Moros. 
All  this  should  be  seen. 

To  visit  the  upper  floor  of  the 
Alcazar  a  special  permit  (not  always 
obtainable)  is  necessary.  Portions 
here  were  destroyed  by  fire  in  1762, 
The  finest  are  the  two  rooms  of  Pedro, 
El  Cruel,  one  of  which  was  converted 
at  the  commencement  of  the  sixteenth 
century  into  a  chapel,  and  is  now 
known  as  the  Oratorio.  It  is  only 
15  ft.  long  by  12  ft.  wide.  The 
plateresque  azulejos  are  the  finest 
Christian  specimens  of  this  sort  of 
ornamentation  in  Andalusia.  The 
retablo  represents  the  'Visitation/ 
and  is  signed  by  the  Italian  Nicolaso 
Francesco  ;  the  draperies  and  drawing 
good.  Observe  the  Tanto  Monta  of 
the  Catholic  kings,  etc.  The  rooms 
were  magnificently  decorated  by  D. 
Pedro  for  Maria  de  Padilla,  and  sub- 
sequently converted  into  different  uses, 
one  of  them  being  the  present  Oratorio. 
There  was  and  is  still  a  narrow 
mysterious  staircase  leading  from  here 
to  the  room  below,  one  of  Maria 
Padilla's,  presently  el  Dormitorio  del 
Bey,  associated  with  the  dramatic  life 
of  that  semi-Moorish  Spanish  Louis  XL 
Here  it  was  also  where,  mad  with 
jealousy  and  spite,  he  stabbed  and 
murdered  Ruiz  de  Villegas.  Observe 
close  by,  over  the  door,  four  death's- 
heads,  and  over  another  door  a  figure  in 
stucco  of  a  man  contemplating  another 
death's-head — all  in  remembrance  of 
some  judges,  whose  heads  fell  by  order 
of  Don  Pedro  because  they  had  cor- 
ruptly decided  a  suit  The  suite  of 
rooms  facing  the  gardens  are  all  Moor- 
ish, and  most  elegant  The  upper 
storey  was  modernised  and  enlarged  by 


Charles   V.,  the  architects  being  Lui* 
and  Gasper  de  Vega,  Hernandez,  etc. 

Bafios   de   Padilla.  —  These   baths, 
placed  under  that    favourite's   rooms 
(they  were  formerly  used  by  the  Sul- 
tanas), were  not  formerly  enclosed  by 
thick  walls,  but  by  oranges  and  citrons*, 
the  works  which  have  disfigured  them 
were  raised,  some  in  Charles  V.  's  time, 
and  others    after   the    earthquake  hi 
1755.     Tradition  has  it  that  when  la 
Padilla  bathed,   Don  Pedro  and   the 
gentlemen  of  his  court  used  to  be  pre- 
sent, and  that  the  height  of  gallantry 
was  for  them  to  drink  with  apparent 
delight  of  that  water.     As  on  a  certain 
occasion,  one  of  the  courtiers  present 
refused  to  drink  of  it,  Don  Pedro  en- 
quired the  reason,  to  which  he  gave 
this  answer :  '  Para  evitar,  Senor,  que 
si  encuentro  agradable  la  salsa,  vaya 
a  antojarseme  la  perdiz  1'    Close  to  the 
Bafios,  now  in  a  subterraneous,  sombre 
gallery,  are  the  gardens,  designed  in  the 
Cinquecento  taste,  with  ponds,  box,  etc 

N.B. — For  permission  to  draw  in  the 
Alcazar  application  should  be  made  in 
the  office  situated  in  the  Patio  de  las 
Banderas. 

Private  Buildings. — Casa  de  Pita- 
los,  situated  in  the  plaza  of  the  same 
name,  and  so  called  because  built  in 
imitation  of  Pontius  Pilate's  house  at 
Jerusalem.  It  belongs  to  the  Duke  of 
Medina  Cell,  who  seldom  or  never  comes 
here,  and  is  inhabited  by  his  admini* 
strator,  who  has  very  zealously  improved 
and  repaired  this,  one  of  the  most  hand- 
some and  artistic  houses  that  any  noble- 
man could  desire.  It  was  begun  by 
the  Adelantado,  Pedro  Enriquez  and 
his  wife,  continued  by  their  son  Don 
Fadrique,  first  Marquis  of  Tarifa,  on 
his  return  from  the  Holy  Land  (1520), 
finished  by  the  Don  Per  Afan  de  Ri- 
bera,  first  Duke  of  Alcala,  their  de 
scendant,  and  ancestor  of  the  present 


SEVILLE — PRIVATE  BUILDINGS. 


409 


Duke  de  Medina  Celi,  who  embellished 
the  palace  with  the  statues  and  pictures 
he  brought  from  Naples  when  he  was 
Viceroy,  and  those  given  to  him  by 
Pope  Pius  V.  For  the  third  Duke, 
Pacheco  painted  the  fresco  represent- 
ing the  story  of  Daedalus  and  Icarus, 
now  in  the  Contaduria,  The  general 
style  of  the  house  and  its  distribution 
is  that  of  the  semi-oriental  period  of 
the  15th  century,  and  beginning  of  the 
16th.  The  Mudejar  character  of  its 
Saracenic  decoration  is  combined  here 
and  there  with  the  plateresque  and 
Gothic  of  the  third  period.  It  became 
a  sort  of  museum  and  studio  frequented 
by  all  the  literati,  artists,  and  amateurs 
of  that  time,  who  assembled  there  to 
paint  and  discuss  art  questions  around 
the  third  Duke  of  Alcala,  the  Meca- 
nas  of  that  period,  and  rival  of  the 
Orsini  and  Oolonnas  of  Italy.  Ces- 
pedes,  the  Herreras,  66ngora,  Jauregni, 
Kioja,  Cervantes,  etc. ;  of  these  ingenios 
or  beaux  esprits  (for  painters  then 
were  also  men  of  letters,  and  these,  in 
turn,  often  cultivated  art)  Pacheco 
wrote  the  lives,  with  their  portraits 
painted  by  him  also.  The  original 
MSS.  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  curate 
of  Fuente  (a  hamlet  close  by),  and  dis- 
appeared. The  only  copy  extant  be- 
longs now  to  Sr.  D.  Jose*  Maria  Bueno, 
a  gentleman  of  Seville,  but  the  portraits 
are  lost  for  ever.  The  principal  patio  is 
exquisite,  and  formed  by  two  galleries 
resting  on  twenty-four  marble  columns. 
The  fountain  in  the  centre  is  ornamented 
with  dolphins,  and  crowned  with  a  head 
of  Janus.  The  walls  all  round,  and  to 
10  ft  high,  are  lined  with  azulejos,  and 
over  them  may  be  seen  stucco  tracery 
of  great  variety  of  pattern,  and  only 
interrupted  by  niches  with  busts  of 
Roman  Emperors ;  that  of  Charles  V. 
is  over  the  entrance  door.  -  At  the  four 
angles  of  the  patio  are  colossal  statues 
of  goddesses — Pallas,  Ceres,  etc. — pre- 1 


sents  from  Pius  V.  The  pavement  is 
of  marble.  Around  this  noble  patio— a 
magnificent  example  of  the  Mudejar 
Saracenic  art  at  its  decline — are  several 
rooms,  all  large,  and  many  very  beauti- 
ful. To  the  right  is  the  Prcetoritun  of 
Pilate,  the  walls  of  which  are  covered 
with  azulejos  and  arabesques.  On  its 
very  ancient  doors  is  inscribed  the 
Credo,  in  Gothic  Letters.  To  N.  and 
facing  the  entrance  is  an  exquisite 
Cella  or  Chapel  with  a  vestibule,  the 
rich  ornamentation  of  which  is  a  most 
happy  combination  of  the  ogival  and 
Moorish  styles.  Inside  is  a  column  or 
pillar,  given  by  Pius  V.,  and  made  in 
imitation  of  that  to  which  our  Saviour 
was  bound  to  be  scourged.  On  the 
sides  of  the  altar  are  indifferent  por- 
traits of  prelates  of  the  house  of  Al- 
cala. The  vestibule  is  decorated  with 
admirably-executed  and  coloured  Triana 
azulejos ;  the  ajaracas,  arrabas  of  its 
agimeces,  etc,  are  all  very  fine  and 
delicately  wrought  The  ceiling  is 
plateresque.  The  Cella  is  most  ori- 
ental, and  the  roof  is  in  the  ogival  and 
Moorish  style.  The  garden,  with  box, 
myrtle,  and  oranges,  once  a  delightful 
paradise,  is  much  neglected,  but  still 
has  some  fine  antiquities  from  Italica. 
Fragments  of  statues,  many  of  them  of 
merit,  may  be  seen  here  and  there, 
though  the  best  things  were  long  ago 
removed  to  the  Medina  Celi  palace  in 
Madrid.  Taken  all  round  the  house 
is  most  bewitching,  of  greater  beauty 
as  a  dwelling-house  than  even  the 
Alcazar  ;  and  when  it  was  the  residence 
of  the  Medina  Celi  family  was  a 
centre  of  elegant  culture  and  refine- 
ment. Its  evil  days  commenced  with 
the  troublous  time  of  1848,  when 
it  was  turned  into  a  powder-magazine, 
and  bombarded  by  Espartero's  troops. 
The  upstairs  rooms  are  not  all  shown, 
but  should  be  visited  as  far  as  pos- 
sible.    Over  the  staircase  leading  to 


410 


SEVILLE — GIRALDA. 


the  upper  gallery  is  a  fine  media 
naranja,  not  unlike  that  of  Salon  de 
Embajadores,  at  the  Alcazar,  whoae 
general  style  has  been  closely  imitated 
here.  The  staircase  is  admirable.  The 
rest  of  the  building  has  been  either 
added  or  modernised.  The  outside  is 
plain ;  oyer  the  portal  is  the  inscription : 
'  Nisi  Dominus  sedificaverit  domum,  in 
vanum  laboravercmt  qui  ©dificant  earn  ; 
sub  umbra  alarum  tuarum  protege  nos  ;' 
and  over  this  is  another  one  in  Spanish, 
giving  the  date  of  erection,  name  of 
founders,  and  the  three  crosses  of  Jeru- 
salem, the  arms  added  to  the  family 
escutcheon  after  one  of  the  founders' 
journey  to  Jerusalem,  and  the  words, 
'En  4  de  Agosto  de  1519  entr6  en 
IIieru8alem.'  The  jasper  cross  on  the 
left  of  door  marked  the  beginning  of 
the  Via  Crucis  or  Calle  de  la  Amargura, 
with  its  fourteen  estaeiones,  which  ter- 
minated at  the  Cruz  del  Campo. 

There  are  some  other  interesting 
private  houses  :  Casa  de  las  Carazas, 
and  also  de  los  Abodes,  in  Calle  de  los 
Abades  No.  6.  This  house  existed  in 
the  15th  century,  and  in  it  was  lodged 
the  Infante  D.  Fernando,  uncle  of 
Juan  II. ,  in  1407.  It  had  been  built,  and 
then  belonged  to  the  wealthy  Genoese 
Pinelos  ;  it  afterwards  passed  to  the 
chapter  of  the  cathedral,  and  was  inha- 
bited by  abbots,  whence  the  name,  de 
los  Abades.  It  was  repaired  and  mo- 
dernised by  the  Pinelos  about  1533. 
The  style  is  the  Sevillian  plateresque, 
not  quite  as  Italian  as  the  Aragonese 
plateresque  of  the  houses  at  Zaragoza  ; 
but  its  characteristics  are  a  combi- 
nation of  the  Moorish,  Gothic,  and 
modern  Italian ;  originality,  picturesque- 
ness,  movement,  and  effect.  Its  patio 
is,  perhaps,  the  only  original  feature 
that  has  been  preserved  through  the 
many  repairs  and  ignorant  handling  to 
which  it  has  been  subjected.  Observe 
the  alto-relievo  medallions,  its  acitaras 


or  richly-ornamented  tabique-work,  the 
very  elegant,  high,  and  narrow  win- 
dows, partly  agimez  and  partly  Gothic, 
with  a  plateresque  capital  on  its  istri- 
ated  Gothic  pillar,  etc.  (iv".#.— This 
house  has  been  made  a  casa  de  hues- 
pedes,  Spanish,  but  fairly  comfortable.) 

House  of  the  Duke  of  Alba,  formerly 
called  de  los  Pinedas,  and  also  de  las 
Dueflas.  It  contained  eleven  patios 
with  nine  fountains,  and  100  marble 
columns.  It  belonged  to  about  the 
same  period  and  style,  but  now  is  all 
decay  and  ruin.  Lord  Holland  lodged 
here  during  his  stay  in  Seville. 

Casa  de  Bustos  Tavera  belongs  now 
to  the  Marques  del  Moscoso.  Those 
who  have  read  Lope  de  Vega's  'Es- 
trella  de  Sevilla '  (turned  into  an  opera 
by  Balfe)  will  visit  this  house,  however 
modernised  now,  and  look  for  the  garden 
door  by  which  King  Sancho  el  Bravo 
used  to  come  in  on  his  nightly  visits 
to  the  'Fair  Star  of  Seville.1  In  the 
Calle  Guzman  el  Bueno,  No.  8,  is  the 
Casa  O'Shea,  now  belonging  to  Sefior 
don  Juan  de  Puente,  and  richly  deserv- 
ing a  visit.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  speci- 
mens of  Moorish  houses,  and  retains 
much  of  the  stucco-work,  notwithstand- 
ing whitewash  and  neglect.  Observe 
the  exquisite  windows  with  their  open 
work,  and  the  mudejar  ornamentation. 

G-iralda  (from  Oirar  to  revolve; 
girouetUy  the  weathercock),  is  a  vestige 
of  the  mosque  formerly  occupying  the 
site  of  the  cathedral.  It  was  built  in 
1196  by  Abn  Jusuf  Jacub  to  serve  as 
the  Muezzin  tower  for  the  mosque 
erected  by  his  father.  Similar  towers 
may  be  seen  at  Rabat,  the  Tower  of 
Hassan  180  ft.  high,  at  Morocco  ;  the 
Tower  of  the  Eootsabea  mosque  at 
Morocco  (built  the  same  year  as  the 
Giralda) ;  the  belfries  of  Torcello,  8$. 
Mark's,  Venice,  etc. 


SEVILLE — GIRALDA. 


411 


Height  Yr.whcn 

ft.  built. 

Tower  of  ftootsabea,  Morocco     —  1196 

Tower  of  Hassan  at  Rabat     .    180  — 

Tower  of  St.  Mark,  Venice    .    350  1148 

Tower  of  Asinelli,  Bologna    •    371  1x09 

Tower  of  Giralda,  Seville  .    .    350  1196 

According  to  Batissier  ('Du  Style 
Arabe  en  Espagne')  and  otters,  these 
belfries  had  all  their  standard  type  in 
Constantinople.    The  lower  portion  is 
of  stone,   the   foundations   deep    and 
large.    The  walls  of  the  base  are  9  ft. 
thick.    The  centre  is  occupied  by  a 
sort  of  axle  or  inner  wall,  which  strength- 
ens the  edifice   and  supports  thirty- 
five  landing-places  or  rainpes,  built  on 
and  with  bricks,  wide,  and  so  made 
that  one  could  ascend  easily  on  horse- 
back.     It  is  lighted  by  agimez  windows 
of  different  styles,  and  richly  decorated 
with  ajaraca  ornamentations  (sunk  pat- 
terns).   From  the  platform  crowning 
the  Giralda,  which,  under  the  Moor, 
had  only  150  ft.  height,  rose  a  spire 
with  four  enormous  gilt  balls,  which 
could  be  seen  shining  at  8  leagues  dis- 
tance, and  were  the  work  of  a  Moor 
native  from  Sicily,  and  called  Abn-el- 
Layth.     They  were  thrown  down  and 
destroyed   during   an    earthquake   in 
1395.     In  1568  the  architect  Hernan 
Ruiz  raised  it  100  ft.  higher.      The 
upper  niches  were  painted  in   fresco 
by  Luis  de  Vargas,  1538-58  ;  but  the 
sun,  weather,  and  neglect  have  almost 
effaced     the    paintings.      The    style 
adopted  when  these  repairs  took  place 
was  the  plateresque,  and  the  proportions 
of  the  tower  are  rather  spoiled  by  the 
addition.   The  pinnacle  is  crowned  with 
a  female  figure  in  bronze,  called  '  la  Gir- 
andilla,'  representing  Faith,  very  well 
executed  by  Bart.  Morel,  1568,  14  ft. 
high,  and  though  weighing  2800  lbs.  it 
turns  most  easily.    The  present  clock 
dates  1764,  and  replaced  a  former  one, 
which  was  the  first  ever  seen  in  Spain — 
1400.  The  bells  (6  large  and  16  smaller) 


have  different  names.  The  ascent  of  the 
tower,  most  easy  to  perform,  must  not  be 
omitted,  as  the  view  from  the  summit 
is  most  glorious,  and  spreads  over 
Seville,  the  Guadalquivir,  and  environs. 
Around  the  four  faces  of  the  frieze  are 
the  words,  'Turris.  Fortissima.  Nomen. 
Domini.'  This  tower  was  used  to  sum- 
mon from  its  summit  the  faithful  to 
prayer.  Besides,  there  were  several 
minor  minarets,  many  of  which  have 
been  modernised  ;  the  principal  extant, 
and  that  belonged  to  mosques,  are 
Sta.  Marina,  San  Marcos,  Sta.  Catilina, 
etc. 

Tower  of  Gold.  —  The  Torre  del 
Oro,  on  the  river  bank,  now  the 
Capitania  del  Puerto,  was  originally  a 
small  fortress,  an  outwork  of  the  general 
line  of  fortifications,  and  from  its  ter- 
race, to  which  the  present  cupola  was 
added  subsequently,  the  environs  and 
river  could  be  watched.  Its  import- 
ance in  the  eyes  of  the  Moors  was 
great,  as  it  defended  also  the  pass  from 
the  Tablada  to  the  Arena!  Its  name  is 
derived  from  the  special  orange  colour- 
ing and  placing  of  its  former  azulejos, 
which  gave  it  the  appearance  of  a 
brazen  or  gilt  tower,  as  that  of  Plata 
(near  the  Mint)  owed  its  name  to  a 
similar  process.  Some  say  it  was  in  the 
former  that  the  Almohades  kept  their 
treasure— -whence  its  name,  Bargu-d- 
dahab  (Tower  of  Gold).  It  was  con- 
verted by  Don  Pedro  into  a  prison  for 
disgraced  favourites  of  the  two  sexes. 
The  sentry-box  added  recently  is  most 
chocanU.  Don  Pedro  also  kept  his 
treasures  here,  under  the  care  of  Samuel 
Levi,  his  Jewish  treasurer  and  banker. 
In  Columbus's  time  it  is  said  to  have 
been  the  dep6t  of  the  gold  brought  by 
him  and  the  fleet  from  the  New  World, 
and  it  has  been  used  also  as  a  light- 
house. At  the  present  time  the  Coman- 
dante  del  Puerto  and  the  Guadalquivir 
Steam  Company  have  their  offices  here 


412 


SEVILLE — SQUARES — STREETS . 


The  gold  and  silver  from  the  New 
World,  whether  private  or  public,  went 
to,  and  were  registered  and  kept  in,  the 
Casa  de  la  Contratacion,  in  the  Alcazar 
there.  The  treasure  here  deposited 
often  exceeded  8,000,000  ducats,  which 
the  kings  of  Spain,  Charles  V.  and 
Philip  II.,  never  scrupled  to  take  to 
pay  their  expensive  wars,  and  seldom 
or  never  reimbursed;  and  when  the 
private  money  was  prudently  with- 
drawn, their  spite  knew  no  bounds,  and 
the  employes  of  that  curious  bank  were 
severely  chastised.  For  a  description 
of  the  Casa  de  Contratacion,  see  'Norte 
de  la  Contratacion  de  las  Indias  Occi- 
dentals,' etc.,  by  D.  J.  Deveita Linage, 
1  vol.  4to  ;  Seville,  1772  ;  'Recopila- 
cion  de  las  Leyes  de  los  Reynos  de  las 
Indias,'  4  vols.  4to,  1681;  Madrid; 
and  Retiro,  'Estancia  y  Muerte  del 
Emperador  Carlos  V.,'  etc.,  by  D.  Tomas 
Gonzales,  MS.,  vol.  i.,  pp.  137, 138,  etc 
Squares,  Gates,  Streets,  Public 
Monuments,  etc.  The  principal 
squares  of  Seville  are,  Plaza  de  la 
Victoria,  pleasantly  shaded  by  trees, 
and  with  the  Teatro  del  Duque  (Medina 
Sidonia,  whose  house  stood  here)  on  its 
north  side.  Plaza  de  la  Constitution, 
at  the  extremity  of  Calle  de  las  Sierpes, 
which  has  preserved  some  coleur  locale 
of  former  riotous  days,  when  it  was 
the  site  of  autos  da  f4,  tournaments, 
executions,  religious  dramas,  and  other 
public  jollifications  of  bygone  times. 
Plaza  del  Triunfo,  with  its  orange- 
trees,  and  with  the  best  buildings  in 
the  town — the  cathedral,  alcazar,  and 
Lonja.  The  PI,  San  Fernando,  a 
Frenchified  square,  out  of  place  in  this 
climate,  and  before  which  the  wise  and 
prudent  Moor  would  shrug  his  shoulders, 
for  it  is  no  joke  to  cross  it  in  June  or 
July ;  his  favourite  narrow  lanes  and 
arcades  were  far  more  picturesque,  cool, 
and  appropriate  than  the  wide,  treeless 
space.    Of  the  1 1 1  plazas  that  SevUlanos 


talk  of,  there  are  only  the  former  that 
really  deserve  the  name. 

Streets. — The  most  curious,  gay,  and 
fashionable  is  the  Calle  de  las  Sierpes, 
where  the  best  shops  may  be  found. 
The  Calle  de  Genoa  and  del  Duque  de 
Tetuan  are  lined  with  booksellers' shops. 
The  Calle  de  Francos  is  a  good  street 
for  silk  shops,  linen,  lace,  etc. 

The  Gates  are  numerous,  and  many 
date  from  the  Moors,  but,  owing  to 
several  restauracUmes,  they  no  longer 
retain  their  former  style  and  character. 
That  of  San  Fernando  is  Grse>co:Roman, 
and  built  1760.  After  the  surrender  of 
Seville,  St.  Ferdinand  entered  by  the 
PuertaBeal.  The  Puertade  Carmona 
was  repaired  and  modernised  in  1578. 
The  Puerta  de  la  Came  is  quite  modern, 
but  was  formerly  the  Bib-Ahoar  of  the 
Moor.  The  Market-place  is  of  no  in- 
terest The  Alameda  de  Hercules, 
N.W.  of  the  city,  is  the  oldest  paseo 
here,  and  is  formed  by  five  rows  of  trees. 
It  is  some  1500  ft.  long.  The  columns 
at  the  entrance  are  very  old,  and 
crowned  by  statues  of  Hercules  (the 
legendary  founder  of  Seville)  and  Julius 
Caesar  ;  as  over  the  Puerta  de  la  Came, 
the  history  of  Seville  is  thus  summed 
up  in  an  inscription  : — 

Condidit  Alcides — renovavit  Julius  urbcm— 
Restituit  Christo  Fernandus  tertius  heros. 

Prout-bits. — Close  to  San  Leandro, 
and  in  a  house  belonging  still  to  the 
nuns  of  that  convent,  lived  Don  Juan 
Tenorio  (the  Don  Juan  of  Byron),  Tirso 
de  Molina,  Moliere,  Zorilla,  etc.  The 
barber-shop  of  Figaro,  *  il  Barbiere  di 
Siviglia,'  is  said  to  be  No.  15,  just  be- 
yond the  Plazade  Sto.  Tomas.  MuriUo't 
house  is  in  the  old  Juderia,  or  Jews' 
quarter,  full  still  of  picturesque  houses. 
It  is  close  to  the  city  wall,  the  last  to 
the  right  in  a  small  plaza  at  the  end  of 
the  Calle  de  Lope  de  Hueda,  Plaza  de 
Alfaro  ;  and  it  recently  became  the  pro- 


SEVILLE. 


413 


perty  of  Dean  Oepero.  Murillo  died 
here  April  3,  1682.  In  the  garden  are 
some  Italian  frescoes,  a  fountain,  etc. 

The  Inquisition  was  established  first 
in  the  Moorish  Castle,  which  was  situated 
to  the  right  on  crossing  to  Triana,  then 
removed  to  Calle  San  Marcos,  and 
finally  to  the  Alameda  Vieja. 

The  Quemadero,  or  burning-place  of 
this  dreaded  and  almost  universally 
adopted  tribunal,  was  on  the  plain  out- 
side the  town,  called  Prado  de  San 
Sebastian.  Near  the  Puerta  del  Sol, 
and  on  the  site  now  occupied  by  the 
Trinitarios  Descalzos,  stood  the  palace 
of  Diogenianas,  where  the  martyrs 
Stas.  Justa  and  Rufina  were  put  to 
death. 

Triana. — This  quarter,  inhabited  by 
the  lower  classes,  was  the  Moorish 
Tarayanah  (from  Trajana,  on  account 
of  the  Emperor  Trajan,  who  was  born 
not  far  from  this  at  Italica).  Here  may 
be  seen  still  all  the  picturesqueness  of 
Andaluaian  types,  the  gipsies,  bull- 
fighters, etc.  The  fine  Gothic  /Vwro- 
quia  of  Santa  Ana  has  some  paintings 
by  Campa&a,  etc.,  and  an  interesting 
tomb  with  tile  decoration,  dated  1508. 

Private  Collection  of  Paintings,  Books, 
etc. — At  Seville  every  one  pretends  to 
possess  several  Murillos,  Zurbarans, 
etc.,  and  the  JJicionados  Inglescs  are 
often  an  easy  prey.  Beware,  therefore, 
of  hasty  purchases ;  for,  however  cheap, 
daubs  are  always  too  dear.  A  very 
witty  French  writer,  Theophile  Gau- 
thier,  says,  'L'honneur  et  aussi  la  plaie 
de  Seville,  c'est  Murillo.  Le  moindre 
bourgeois,  le  plus  mince  abbe,  possede 
au  moins  trois  cents  Murillo  du  meilleur 
temps.  A  chaque  coin  de  me  on  se 
heurte  a  Tangle  d'un  cadre,  c'est  un 
Murillo  de  trente  francs,  qu'un  Anglais 
vient  toujours  d'acheter  trente  mille 
francs ! '  There  are,  nevertheless,  seve- 
ral fine  collections,  the  most  noteworthy 
being  that  of  the  herederos  of  D.  Manuel 


Lopez  Cepero  (£1  Dean  Cepero)  at  the 
house  No.  7  Plaza  de  Alfaro,  in  the 
Juderia,  where  Murillo  lived,  and  where 
his  studio  may  still  be  visited.  Here 
are  several  fair  and  undoubted  Murillos, 
a  great  number  of  copies,  and  some 
Zurbarans,  Oarre&os,  Cambiegos,  Dome- 
nichinoe,  etc.  One  of  the  finest  private 
libraries  is  that  belonging  to  D.  Jose* 
Maria  de  Alava,  rich  in  MSS.,  ancient 
editions  of  Spanish  literature,  and  books 
relative  to  the  history  of  Spain. 

TheatreB,  Promenades,  etc. — The 
Teatro  de  San  Fernando  is  a  fine  build- 
ing, erected  in  1847  by  a  French  archi- 
tect, and  capable  of  holding  2800  specta- 
tors. The  interior  is  very  well  arranged, 
and  the  sail*  is  handsome.  This  theatre 
is  the  most  fashionable,  and  the  opera 
companies  are  generally  good.  It  is 
situated  in  the  Calle  Tetuan,  upon  the 
site  of  the  old  hospital  of  the  Espiritu 
Santo.  Teatro  Cervantes,  in  the  Calle 
Amor  de  Dios,  is  also  a  good  house. 
For  short  pieces,  with  local  colouring, 
the  Teatro  del  Duque,  in  its  Plaza,  ma) 
be  visited,  and  also  a  summer  theatre 
in  the  Eslava  gardens. 

The  Plaza  de  Toros,  built  1760,  with 
a  fine  facade,  is  made  of  stone,  and  the 
diameter  of  the  arena  is  246  ft. ;  it  was 
only  finished  in  1881 ;  and  a  breach 
made  in  it  by  a  violent  storm  in  1805, 
by  allowing  the  Cathedral  and  Giralda 
to  be  seen  iu  the  background,  used  to 
form  a  most  singular  spectacle.* 

At  some  of  the-  lower  class  cafes — e.g. 
the  Suizo  (the  best)  and  the  Novedades, 
both  in  the  Sierpes,  the  gipsy  and 
local  dances  may  be  seen  at  night, 
and  should  not  be  missed  by  the 
traveller ;  they  offer  many  tablearum  full 
of  character.  The  guides  at  the  prin- 
cipal hotels  understand  how  to  get  up 
a  Gitana  dance  at  Triana  or  elsewhere, 
and  the  gipsies,  dressed  in  their  holiday 

*  See  Roberts'  beautiful  landscape  in  '  Jen- 
ning's  Landscape  Annual,'  1836. 


406 


SEVILLE — THE   ALCAZAR. 


de  Ayala  (MS.  at  Library  of  El  Escorial; 
see  Madrazo's  '  Seville, '  in  the  '  ColL 
de  Recuerdos  y  Bellezas,'  etc.)  leaves  no 
doubt  The  vassal  complains  of  not 
having  received  his  military  pay,  of 
having  had  to  sell  his  horses  and  pawn 
his  arms  ;  on  which  the  king  turns  his 
back  and  orders  his  supper,  and  the  end 
of  it  is  'Levantome  muy  triste  conboca 
muy  amarga.'  In  the  Sala  de  Justicia, 
which  is  one  of  the  rooms  of  the  original 
palace,  the  Alcaldes  held  their  tribunal. 
The  grand  facade  glitters  with  gold  and 
vivid  colours,  the  pillarets  are  all  of 
precious  marbles.  Observe  the  lions  and 
castles  on  the  interlaced  archwork  over 
the  door.  The  square  cupola  of  the 
Sala  del  Principe  overhangs  the  facade, 
decorated  with  diminutive  archlets  and 
azulejo  work,  finishing  in  a  point  and 
crowned  with  a  spear,  with  globes  all 
gilt.  The  style  of  this  facade  is  Alham- 
braic  and  a  magnificent  example  of  the 
purest  Almohade  period.  It  was  cruelly 
whitewashed  in  1813,  with  the  rest  of 
the  buildings,  but  the  whitewash  was 
taken  off,  and  all  the  Alcazar  repaired 
recently  by  Mr.  Becquer  and  Colonel 
Rotalde,  at  the  expense  of  the  Due  de 
Montpensier,  and  at  the  cost  of  nearly 
£10,000.  The  repairs  have  been  done 
with  little  taste,  in  a  paltry  manner, 
and  very  awkwardly  executed.  The 
gilding  and  painting  are  disgraceful,  and 
many  of  the  azulejos  are  merely  painted 
walls  imitating  them,  and  this  in  a  city 
where  manufactories  of  them  abound. 
The  Duke  of  Montpensier  lived  here 
some  time  after  his  marriage,  and  the 
ex-Queen  Isabella  has  made  the  place 
more  or  less  her  residence,  to  the 
delight  of  Sevillian  beggars  and 
tradesfolk.  (N.B. — During  any  royal 
sojourn  it  is  difficult  to  see  any  but 
the  lower  portions  of  the  Alcazar.) 
On  the  facade  is  an  inscription  in 
Gothic  characters  bearing  the  date 
(1964)    of    the    rebuilding    of    the 


Alcazar  under  Don  Pedro.  The  entrance 
through  paltry  corridors,  is  a  modern 
idea,  and  a  very  poor  one,  blocking  up, 
by  means  of  a  wall,  the  view  of  the 
Patio  de  las  Donccllas.  This  magnificent 
court  is  surrounded  by  fifty-two  marble 
columns,  of  which  forty  are  in  pairs,  an 
exceptional  feature  in  Moorish  archi- 
tecture, of  which  the  Court  of  Lions  in 
the  Alhambra  is  another  example.  Why 
it  is  called  '  de  las  Doncellas '  is  not 
known  ;  some  have  said,  erroneously, 
that  it  was  derived  from  the  tribute  of 
the  hundred  maidens,  imposed  by  Mau- 
regato,  and  paid  to  the  khalif  of  Cor- 
dova. The  very  fact  destroys  the  asser- 
tion, for  the  capital  of  the  Andalusian 
khalifate  was  Cordova,  and  Seville  had 
no  palace  till  the  11th  century  ;  the  one 
in  which  Abdul- Azis  lived  being  sup- 
posed to  have  been  situated  on  the  Pradc 
de  Sta.  Justa,  on  the  site  of  the  church 
of  Stas.  Justa  y  Rufina,  at  the  door  of 
which  he  erected  a  mosque,  where  he 
died  (see  Madrazo,  ut  supra,  from  trans- 
lation of  the  Arab  historian,  Ben  Alcu- 
teyya,  by  Sr.  Gayangos).  This  court 
dates  of  14th  century,  as  may  be  seen 
by  the  Mudejar  ornamentation  of  its 
cabinets  (aloharias).     The  two  doors, 

especially  that  of  the  Carlos  V.  Salon, 
its  azulejos  (here  original,  though 
rehechos  in  1857),  the  truly -termed 
celosias  (celos,  jealousy),  so  minutely 
worked,  are  very  Moorish.  That  this 
court  was  relatively  modernised  in 
1569  is  evidenced  by  the  trophies  and 
escutcheons  of  Don  Pedro,  the  arms  of 
the  Catholic  kings,  the  pillars  of 
Hercules,  and  the  proud  motto  'plus 
ultra'  invented  by  Charles  V.'s  doctor, 
Luis  Marliano,  and  so  true  after 
Columbus  going  beyond  and  thus  ren- 
dering vain  Hercules',  that  is,  the  Phcs- 
nicians'  goal  of  the  world.  All  the 
upper  portion  is  Ionic,  and  designed  by 
Luis  de  Vega,  in  the  bramantesque 
gusto,  for  the  marriage  of  Charles  V. 
with  Isabella  of  Portugal 


SEVILLE — THE  ALCAZAR. 


407 


Salon    de    Embaj adores.  —  Passing 
now  through  the  Salon  de  Carlos  V. 
(note  its  splendid  ceiling  and  azalejos) 
and  the  Sola  de  Maria  Padilla,  where 
was  born,  in  1848,  the  Infanta  Maria 
Isabel — we  arrive  at  the  Embajadores, 
with  its  three  vestibules  communicating 
by    fine    Moorish    arches.      The    W. 
entrance  {Comedor)  is  the  richest  in 
its  ornamentation  of  birds,  etc.     The 
capitals  are  of  different  styles  of  the 
Moorish  ;  and  there  is  an  odd  mixture 
of  the  Berber,  Arabic,  Mudejar,  Gothic, 
and  even   Revival   styles,  productive 
of  doubtful  effect.     The  media  naranja, 
or  cupola,  is  of  admirable  shape  and 
work,  and  was  repaired  and  embellished 
under    Juan    II.    by  Diego    Ruiz    in 
1427.       The    ogival    upper    portion, 
probably    done    under    the    Catholic 
kings,  has  the  trefoil  ornament  and 
•the  fleur  de  lys.     The  series  of  por- 
traits of  the  kings  of  Spain,  from  Chin- 
dasvinthus  to  Philip  III.,  was  begun 
under  the  Catholic  kings,  and  finished 
with  the  latter.     In  this  room  Charles 
Y.  was  married  to  Isabella  of  Portugal. 
The  four  balconies,  unfortunately  out 
of  keeping  with  the  rest,  were  added  by 
the  Austrian  sovereigns,  and  were  for- 
merly agimeces.    In  this  hall  it  was  that 
Don  Pedro  received  the  suppliant  Rey 
Bermejo  (the  Red  King,  the  Lagus  of 
Spanish  ballads  and   usurper  of  the 
throne  of  Ismael  II.  of  Granada),  who 
came  with  great  pomp,  a  guard  of  500 
Moors,  and  his  unparalleled  collection 
of  jewels;  upon  seeing  which  Don  Pedro, 
who  was  a  great  amateur  of  gems,  in- 
vited him  to  a  banquet,  and  treacher- 
ously sent  him  two  days  after  to  Tabla- 
da,  where  he  was  made  a  target  for  the 
Spanish  knights  and  their  king,  who, 
according  to  the  ballad — 

Tirole  al  moro  una  lanza, 
El  propio  con  la  su  mano : 
Parole  de  parte  en  parte, 
Lo  que  a  rey  no  era  dado. 


D.  Pedro  obtained  possession  of  the 
jewels,  amongst  which  was  the  largest 
ruby  in  the  world,  now  belonging 
to  the  Crown  of  England,  and  given 
to  the  Black  Prince  by  D.  Pedro  after 
the  battle  of  Navarrete.  In  the  next 
room,  Patio  de  las  Afuflecas,  Don  Pedro 
caused  his  brother  Don  Fadrique, 
who  had  been  invited  by  him  to 
come  and  see  the  tournaments,  to  be 
murdered.  The  ballad  on  this  subject, 
found  in  Duran's  collection,  is  very  cha- 
racteristic of  that  time,  from  which  it 
dates  (though  handled  and  remodelled 
in  the  16th  century),  and  begins — 

Yo  me  estaba  alia  en  Counbra. 

The  event  took  place  May  19,  1358. 
As  for  the  stains  of  blood  remaining 
on  the  marble  pavement,  and  shown  to 
the  traveller  as  the  vestiges  of  that 
latter  crime,  they  are  nothing  but  fer- 
ruginous spots,  like  those  shown  all 
over  the  world ;  as,  for  instance,  the 
blood  of  Rizzio  at  Holyrood,  the  blood 
of  the  Abencerrages  at  the  Alhambra, 
and  the  like  at  the  Hague,  Rome,  etc. 
The  name  of  Las  Munecas  (the  pup- 
pets, dolls)  is  quite  modern,  and  the 
origin  ignored.  The  style  of  this  room 
is  most  Alhambraic.  The  capitals  of 
the  slender,  airy,  marble  pillars,  are 
very  pure,  said  by  some  to  be  in  style 
similar  to  the  oldest  in  the  mosque  of 
Cordoba,  and  are  most  elegantly  shaped, 
while  the  walls,  double  galleries,  etc. 
are  all  ornamented  with  the  most 
delicate  lacework  in  stucco. 

Grouped  around  these  principal  salas 
— the  Embajadores  and  the  Mufiecas — 
are  several  smaller  rooms,  beginning 
from  the  principal  facade  to  S.W.,  and 
finishing  at  the  other  extremity  S.E. 
of  the  Patio  de  las  Doncellas,  where 
were  the  private  apartments  of  the 
fair  and  ill-fated  Maria  de  Padilla. 
These  rooms  are,   the  Quarto  de  los 


400 


SEVILLE—COLOMBINE   LIBRARY. 


Martin  de  Vos. — Last  Judgment ; 
fine,  and  very  celebrated ;  formerly  at 
the  Augustine  Convent,  and  executed  in 
1670.  Pacheco,  page  201,  tells  us  that 
the  female  nudities  of  this  picture 
troubled  so  the  mind  of  the  priests 
during  mass  that  it  prevented  their  say- 
ing it  quietly  before  it ;  and  a  bishop 
who  had  been  in  the  Indies  declared  he 
would  rather  stand  a  hurricane  in  the 
Gulf  of  Bermuda  than  perform  mass 
again  opposite  to  it.  (No.  116,  north 
transept.) 

There  are  no  Velazquez',  though  Se- 
ville was  his  native  place  (the  one  re- 
presenting a  Friar  Begging  is  ascribed 
to  him,  and  is  very  much  injured) ;  no 
Canos  either,  strange  to  say,  nor  Luis 
de  Vargas.  The  minor  painters  of  the 
Sevillian  school  have  some  examples 
here.  The  best  are  by  Tobar,  Aranda, 
Mazzoni,  Ramuz,  Gonsalvo  Bilbao, 
etc. 

Sculpture. — In  the  patios  are  several 
fragments  of  statues,  columns,  etc., 
found  in  the  ruins  of  Italica,  They 
are  of  no  great  merit,  and  mostly  be- 
long to  the  period  of  decline  in  Roman 
art.  Nevertheless,  a  fine  head  of  a 
Minerva,  a  small  Venus,  some  busts  of 
Roman  Emperors,  and  two  very  fine 
torsos,  belong,  according  to  some,  to  a 
more  flourishing  state  of  art.  The  in- 
scriptions are  unimportant.  One  in 
the  larger  patio  is  allusive  to  Val. 
Maximianus'  pacification  of  Bsetica 
and  another  to  Bacchus.  '  Libero 
Patri  Sacr.,'  etc  At  the  entrance  is  a 
fine  iron  cross,  by  Sebastian  Cond^, 
1692.  The  magnificent  Silleria,  by 
Cornejo,  once  at  the  Cartuga,  has  been 
finally  removed  to  the  cathedral  of 
Cadiz. 

By  Montanis. — A  fine  Sto.  Domingo, 
and  a  crucifix.    (S.  transept.) 

San  Brwno. — Very  beautiful ;  placed 
recently  in  the  larger  room,  formerly 
the  church  itself. 


The  Four  Cardinal  Virtues. 
St.  John.  A  good  Virgin  and  Child 
Tarrigi<mo. — A  terra  cotta  St.  Je- 
rome from  the  convent  of  Buena- Vista- 
He  was  the  author  of  the  screens  and 
sepulchre  of  Henry  VII.  at  Westminster 
Abbey,  and  the  rival  of  M.  Angelo. 
The  saint  is  represented  gazing  on  a 
cross,  whilst  he  is  holding  a  stone  with 
which  he  is  striking  his  breast  to  do 
penance.  The  anatomy  is  very  fine; 
the  expression  of  the  face  of  this  great 

and  holy  man  is  excellent.  (N.  transept. ) 
Observe  in  the  Sala  de  Sesiones,  on 

the  left  before  entering  the  Salon  Prin- 
cipal, some  portraits  of  contemporaries 
of  Murillo,  painted  by  the  professors 
upon  election. 

Libraries. — Columbine,  Archives  of 
the  Indies,  De  la  Universidad. 

BZBLIOTECA    COLOMBOTA. 

Admittance  free. 

Open  daily,  except  on  holidays,  from  xo  a.m.  to 
3  p.m.  In  the  months  of  June,  July,  August, 
September,  the  hours  are  from  8  to  12,  morning 
only.  The  director  is  styled  '  Ilustrfsimo  Sr. 
Bibliotecario  Capitular  de  la  Biblioteca  Colom- 
bina.'  The  employes  are  obliging,  bat  not  well 
informed,  and  the  catalogue  is  very  second  rate. 

This  library  was  chiefly  formed  by 
the  legacy  of  Fernando  Colon,  son  of 
the  great  Christopher  Columbus.  He 
was  a  learned  scholar,  as  well  as  a  brave 
and  skilful  soldier,  accompanied  his 
father  and  uncle  Don  Diego  several 
times  to  America,  and  was  in  all  the 
wars  of  Italy,  Flanders,  and  Germany. 
His  projects  of  founding  academies, 
schools,  libraries,  were  most  excellent, 
but  he  died  without  realising  them,  and 
bequeathed  to  the  Chapter  his  private 
library  amounting  to  some  20,000 
volumes,  which  were  slowly  increased 
afterwards  to  their  present  number, 
30,000,  but  through  neglect,  worms, 
and  insects  of  all  sorts,  Columbus'  own 
set  of  books  are  now  reduced  to  10,000. 
I  Among  other  curious  books,  collected 


SEVILLE — UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY. 


401 


by  him  in  all  parts  of  the  world  are : 
a  '  Divina  Commedia,'  contemporary  of 
Dante;  the  'Tesoro,'  a  translation  of 
that  written  by  Dante's  master,  Bru- 
netto  Latini ;  the  '  Misal  del  Cardinal 
Mendoza,'  of  15th  century,  full  of 
curious  and  beautiful  illuminations. 
See  especially  the  Death  of  Christ. 
The  Pontifical,  in  folio  (in  stand  or 
table  No.  149),  of  1390,  ought  to  be 
carefully  studied  by  those  who  wish 
to  become  acquainted  with  the  dresses, 
furniture,  buildings,  arms,  and  ships, 
etc.,  of  that  period,  which  are  referred 
to  in  its  numerous  cuts.  The  illumi- 
nations of  the  '  Misal  Hispalense ' 
(No.  12),  folio  of  14th  to  15th  century, 
especially  the  capital  letters,  are  glo- 
rious. See  also  miniature  illustration  by 
Guillen  de  Urrea  in  the  Evangelistario, 
folio  (table  1 46,  No.  6). 

The  MSS.  relating  to  the  history  of 
Spain  and  of  the  locality  are  not  very 
important.  For  those  on  this  city,  see 
end  of  Seville.  There  is  interesting  MS. 
poetry  of  Dante,  Petrarco,  Cecco  d'As- 
coli,  etc.  Of  Columbus  himself  there 
is  but  little  here,  and  what  there  is 
has  already  been  published  by  Nava- 
rette  and  Irving,  etc.  Amongst  others 
is  the  'Tractatus  de  Imagine  Mundi' 
of  Cardinal  Pierre  d'Ailly,  published 
in  1480,  at  Lou  vain.  It  contains  all 
the  information  of  Ptolemy,  Aristotle, 
Pliny,  etc.,  on  the  form  of  the  world. 
Columbus  copied  it  with  his  own  hand 
and  added  notes,  which  are  not  impor- 
tant. There  is  also  a  tract  written  by 
him  to  satisfy  the  Inquisition,  and  de- 
claring that  his  discovery  was  pre- 
dicted in  the  Scriptures.  Documents 
relative  to  him  and  his  journeys  may 
be  looked  for  at  the  Archivo  de  Indias 
here,  at  Madrid,  at  Duke  d'Osuna's 
and  Duke  de  Veragua's  libraries,  at  Bib- 
lioteca  de  la  Historia,  Madrid,  etc.,  but 
the  most  valuable  are  no  doubt  locked 
up  at  the  Vatican.    His  letters  have  been 


admirably  translated  by  Mr.  Major. 
*  Select  Letters  of  Christopher  Colum- 
bus,' etc.  London,  1857.  Hackluyt 
Society,  vol.  i.  8.  The  portraits  above 
the  book-shelves  are  all  of  archbishops 
of  Seville.  •  Notice,  besides,  a  physician 
(Francisco  Bonifaz),  by  A.  Cano,  and 
an  inferior  Murillo,  San  Fernando.  On 
the  staircase  i3  the  tomb  of  Inigo  Men- 
doza (1497).  In  Cuarto  de  los  Sub- 
sidios  is  a  Piedad  by  Juan  Nunez.  In 
the  Sala  de  la.Hermandad  del  Santisimo 
is  a  Dispute  of  the  Sacrament,  by  Her- 
rera  the  younger,  and  others  by  Arteaga ; 

the  Infant  Saviour  is  by  Montan6s. 
See,   in   the   second   salon  of  the 

library,  the  sword  of  Fernan  Gonzalez, 
used  after  his  death  by  Perez  de  Vargas, 
formerly  in  the  San  Telmo  palace,  and 
described  upon  p.  403. 

Senor  D.  Aurel  Fernaz.  Guerra  found 
out  quite  recently,  in  the  Columbine, 
a  very  valuable  MS.  It  is  registered 
A,  141-4,  and  with  the  title,  No.  4, 
Poesias,  Palacio,  Varia;  MSS.  T.  4. 
The  contents  have  been  published  in 
an  appendix  to  the  interesting  and 
important  bibliographical  work,  'En- 
sayo  de  una  biblioteca  Espanola  de 
Libros  raros  y  curiosos,'  by  Messrs. 
Zarco  del  Valle  and  Rayon  from  notes 
by  Gallardo,  a  judicious  book-worm. 
They  consist  of  a  long,  admirable  letter 
of  Cervantes  to  a  friend,  on  the  Fiesta 
of  San  Juan  de  Alfarache.  Two  charm- 
ing entremeses  by  Cervantes ;  one  en- 
titled '  La  Carcel  de  Sevilla,'  the  other 
'El  Hospital  de  los  Podridos,'  and  a 
'Relation  de  la  Carcel  de  Sevilla,'  by  the 
same,  abounding  in  most  valuable  infor- 
mation, as  illustrating  his  and  Quevedo's 
works,  besides  seven  'romances,'  etc., 
and  an  Opusculo  by  Gutierre  de  Cetina. 

University  Library. — Open  daily, 
except  on  holidays  (admittance  free), 
same  hours,  etc.,  as  for  Columbine. 
This  library,  now  amounting  to  some 
D 


418 


TANGIEK. 


the  residence  of  foreign  ministers  and 
consuls.  Tandja,  'the  city  protected 
by  the  Lord,'  is  very  ancient,  the 
earliest,  perhaps,  of  this  part  of  Africa, 
and  close  to  the  Roman  '  Tingis; '  it 
has  successively  belonged  to  the  dif- 
ferent peoples  who  have  conquered  that 
country.  It  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
Portuguese,  shortly  after  the  capture 
by  them  of  Arzilla,  and  was  ceded  to 
the  English  in  1662,  in  the  dowry  of 
Catherine  of  Braganza,  who  married 
Charles  II.  It  was  given  up  by  Eng- 
land 1684,  and  the  mole  and  fortifi- 
cations which  had  been  raised  were 
then  destroyed,  and  have  not  been 
since  rebuilt.  Of  these  the  rocks  op- 
posite to  Bab-el-Marsa,  or  the  Vic- 
toria Gate,  formed  a  breakwater  just 
before  the  mole,  which  was  armed 
with  two  batteries.  The  jetty,  which 
formed  the  port  on  the  side  of  the  bay, 
had  also  a  battery,  and  important  works 
had  been  erected  on  the  now  defence- 
less plateau  which  extends  S.W.  of  the 
kasbah.  The  city  was  greatly  embel- 
lished during  the  two  centuries  of  Por- 
tuguese occupation  ;  but  of  its  monu- 
ments, cathedral,  and  other  churches, 
few  it  any  vestiges  remain. 

Situated  at  the  N.W.  extremity  of 
the  bay,  the  city  rises  in  an  amphi- 
theatre on  the  slopes  of  two  hills  ;  one 
to  the  N.  is  occupied  by  the  kasbah, 
or  citadel ;  on  the  other,  to  the  S.,  ex- 
tends the  town  proper.  Seen  from  the 
sea  it  bears  a  picturesque  aspect,  some- 
what similar  to  that  of  Algiers,  but  on 
a  smaller  scale. 

The  principal  street  crosses  the 
town,  beginning  at  the  Bab-el-Marsa, 
or  Gate  of  the  Marine,  and  continues 
to  the  Bab-el-Sok,  or  Gate  of  the 
Market-place.  Passing  by  the  principal 
mosque  and  largest  square,  the  broadest 
street  in  the  city  after  the  one  above 
mentioned  is  that  in  which  the  Con- 
sulates of  England,  Spain,  and  Portugal ' 


are  situated.  The  streets,  or  rathei 
lanes,  are  very  narrow,  winding,  and 
dirty;  the  houses  are  small,  white- 
washed, and  generally  of  one  storey, 
terraced,  with  the  usual  characteristics 
seen  in  all  Moorish  cities,  such  as 
absence  of  windows,  inner  courts,  etc 

Sights.— The    principal    sights  are 
the  life,  customs  and  costumes  in  the 
streets  ;  the  three  prisons  ;  the  Sultan's 
palace;    the    courts    of  justice;     the 
Harem ;   the  disused  treasury  ;  all  in 
the  Kasaba,  or  upper  town ;  the  Caftdu 
pays  (8-9  p.m.)  ;  the  Mueddin  towers, 
with  their  bright  azulejo  ornamenta- 
tion ;  such  portions  of  the  mosques  as 
can  be  compassed ;    and  the  Sok  or 
market-place,  on  Wednesday  afternoon, 
and  Thursday  and  Sunday  mornings. 
Note    at   these    last  the   picturesque 
groups  of  squatting  women  enveloped  in 
their  white  haiks,  and  the  tall  reefians 
(which  you    may  pronounce  ruffians) 
from  the  mountains  between  Ceuta  and 
Oran,   draped  in  their  hooded  gehab, 
their  heads  shaved,  with  the  exception 
of  a  lock  hanging  over  their  shoulders, 
a  tribe  that  claims  to    be  the  pure 
descendants  of  the  Berber  race.     The 
shops,  the  camels  and  their  drivers,  the 
subterraneous  granaries  (the  Spaniards* 
Silos),   the    variety    of   costume,    the 
guttural  harsh  Maghreb,  the  passive 
indifferent  expression  on  the  counte- 
nance and  the  vacant  eye,  indicative  of 
ignorance  and  degeneracy —  all  these 
will  be  novel  to  the  tourist.     Besides 
the  modern  houses,  large  and  comfort- 
able,   of    the    ministers    of    foreign 
countries,  etc.,  there  are  two  or  three 
belonging  to  wealthy  Jews  and  Moors, 
which  may  be  visited.     We  also  recom- 
mend a  visit  to  the  Gardens  of  the 
Belgian  and  German  Consuls,  Huerta 
de  Hardan ;  to  the  orange-groves  and 
villas  of  Mount  Washington,  west  of  the 
town  (where  the  wealthier  European 
residents  have  their  country  houses), 


TANGIER. 


419 


etc.  To  the  south,  across  the  sandy 
downs,  lies  Old  Tangier,  which  may 
also  be  visited.  Here,  beyond  the 
excellent  bathing  plaza  (J  hr.),  may 
be  seen  an  old  Roman  bridge  and  gate, 
forming  part  of  the  ancient  Tinjis 
(Tcmdja  Bdlia).  For  other  outlying 
excursions — Cape  Spartel,  etc.,  see  p. 
421. 

Directory 

Church  of  England  services  (S.P.G.),  three 
times  on  Sunday,  in  the  pro -church  of  St. 
Andrew,  on  the  Soko.  Roman  Catholic  church 
in  the  main  street. 

British  Minister,  Sir  Arthur  Nicholson, 
K.C.I.E.  British  Consul,  Herbert  E.  White, 
Esq. ;  U.S.A.  Consul,  F.  C.  Partridge,  Esq. 

Bankers. — Besides  one  or  two  private  banks, 
a  branch  of  the  French  Transatlantic  Bank, 
and  the  Comptoir  d'Escompte  de  Paris. 

English  Doctor. — Dr.  Smith. 

There  are  several  good  bazaars,  kept  by 
Jews.  Fez  porcelain,  ornamented  daggers, 
Moorish  costumes,  sashes,  beads,  etc.,  are  to 
be  bought  at  one  -  third  of  the  price  at  first 
demanded. 

Hunting. — Fox-hunting,  nearly  extinct,  at 
very  uncertain  times.  There  are  frequent 
camps  formed  for  pig-sticking  and  pig-shoot- 
ing.  By  going  a  short  way  into  the  country 
good  shooting  may  be  enjoyed  —  partridge, 
hare,  rabbit,  woodcock,  snipe,  etc.  N.B. 
For  these  matters,  as  also  on  all  guide  busi- 
ness, and  excursions  into  the  interior,  visitors 
should  not  neglect  to  consult  Mr.  E.  P. 
Carleton,  known  as  'Beby'  Carleton,  who 
knows  the  region  well,  and  is  willing  to  act  as 
courier. 

Tangier  to  Tetuan. — Distance  12  to  14 
leagues,  riding  in  one  day;  horses  z  dollar  a 
day.  Apply  to  the  English  Consul  to  obtain 
a  soldier  as  an  escort,  who  is  paid  2  dollars 
a  day,  his  horse  included ;  the  guide  x  dollar 
a  day,  dot  including  his  horse.  This  soldier, 
called  Moro  de  Rey,  belongs  to  the  Sultan's 
body-guard.  By  leaving  at  7  a.m.,  Tetuan 
may  be  reached  at  5  p.m.  The  road,  a  mere 
track,  lies  across  verdant  plains  and  woody 
districts.  A  halt  is  usually  made  half-way 
near  the  Caravanserai  of  the  gorge  of  Ain- 
Djedida,  called  El  Fondak,  whence,  probably, 
the  Spanish  word  Fonda. 


Tetuan.— Population,  15,000  Moors, 
7500  Jews,  and  upwards  of  500 
Spaniards.  Before  the  siege  of  the 
town  by  the  Spaniards,  it  is  said  to 
have  numbered  some  40,000.  Tetuan 
appears  most  picturesquely  from  a 
distance,  as  it  is  seen  rising  on  the 
steep  slopes  of  some  hills,  one  of  which 
is  crowned  by  the  Easbah  or  Fortress. 
The  river,  Wad  Martil,  or  Rio  Martin, 
runs  towards  the  S. ;  on  its  right  bank 
rise  the  hills  of  the  wild  Reef  range, 
some  8000  ft.  high.  This  river  takes 
its  rise  in  the  hills  of  the  Lower  Atlas, 
and  empties  itself  into  the  Mediter- 
ranean, a  few  miles  off,  and  not  far 
from  Ceuta.  On  entering  the  city,  the 
tourist  follows  a  narrow  muddy  lane 
leading  to  the  principal  square.  There 
are  several  Spanish  Fondas,  which  have 
been  recently  established.  It  is  usual 
for  English  tourists  to  put  up  at  Isaac 
Nahom's,  but  there  is  an  hotel  (Calpe  ; 
fair)  now  opened.  Tetuan  is  far  more 
interesting  than  Tangier,  although  the 
Spaniards  destroyed  3800  houses  in 
the  last  war.  The  streets  are  said  to 
be  like  those  of  Fez.  Visit  the  markets, 
the  Easbah,  the  bazaars,  the  Chozas  01 
villas  and  gardens  of  the  wealthy  Moors ; 
the  British  Consul's  house  is  a  good 
specimen  of  Mauresque,  not  Moorish, 
style.  The  garden  of  the  Bashah  may 
be  also  visited.  There  is  some  good 
shooting  in  winter  in  the  vicinity  of 
Tetuan — partridge,  quails,  wild  ducks 
— and  boar-hunting.  Cabo  Martin  can 
be  made  head-quarters.  It  costs  lOr. 
per  day  to  keep  a  horse.  Nahom  will 
provide  sportsmen  with  provender,  etc 
Take  two  soldiers,  Moras  de  Jtey,  with 
you,  and  do  not  extend  your  excursions 
too  far,  or  unaccompanied.  The  Jew- 
ish type  is  here  seen  in  all  its  perfec- 
tion. Endeavour  to  witness  a  Jewish 
marriage,  the  antique  ceremonies  of 
which  are  especially  interesting  here. 
1  The  mosques,  about  forty  in  number. 


420 


TANGIER. 


are  larger  and  finer  than  at  Tangier. 
The  Spaniards  obtained  permission, 
by  the  treaty  of  peace,  to  build  a 
Catholic  church,  which  has  now  been 
completed,  and  is  dedicated  to  N.  S.  de 
la  Victoria.  The  port  of  Tetuan  is 
sheltered  from  the  west  winds,  but  much 
exposed  to  the  east  It  is  shallow,  and 
the  trade  indifferent,  consisting  of 
woollens,  barley,  wax,  leather,  silks, 
Fez  porcelain,  azulejos,  etc. 

A  charming  day's  ride  by  Cape 
Negro ;  take  a  Moro  de  Bey  soldier  as 
an  escort 

Geut&Stfebta  in  Maghreb,  so  called 
from  the  seven  hills  which  are  seen 
here  advancing  towards  the  straits, 
became  a  Portuguese  possession  in 
1485,  and  in  1640  was  annexed  to  the 
crown  of  Castile.  The  Berber  expedi- 
tions against  Spain  embarked  from  this 
port  Its  northern  extremity,  Punta 
de  Africa,  is  just  opposite  to  Punta  de 
Europa,  which  is  part  of  '  the  Rock '  of 
Gibraltar,  situated  23  kil.  across,  and 
thus  the  Promontory  of  Ceuta,  El 
Hacho,  was  the  Abyla,  as  Gibraltar 
the  Calpe,  and  both  the  celebrated 
Pillars  of  Hercules.  At  the  foot  of  the 
citadel  are  some  Roman  ruins.  It  is  a 
dull,  dirty  town,  but  an  important 
presidio,  or  Spanish  military  prison. 
The  other  Spanish  possessions  on  that 
coast,  all  presidios,  are  Pefion  de  Velez, 
de  Alhucemas,  Melilla,  Djafarin  Isles 
(Las  Chafarinas),  etc.  The  N.W. 
coasts  of  Morocco,  extending  to  15 
leagues  in  the  interior,  would  have 
been  a  more  useful  colony  to  Spain 
than  the  Philippines,  and  France 
could  well  exchange  Algeria  for  Mo- 
rocco. The  war  between  Spain  and 
Morocco  was  a  useful  promenade  mili- 
taire,  which  displayed  all  the  excel- 
lent qualities  of  the  Spanish  soldier. 
The  causes  were  futile  and  magnified  by 

*  Inns. — Fonda  Indiana.   Passports  required 
to  land  here,  returned  on  re-embarking. 


a  military  ministry  who  loved  powst 
and  deserved  it.  The  old  war-cry 
*  Guerra  al  Moro  1 '  could  not  fail  to  be 
popular.  An  army,  composed  of  fifty- 
two  battalions,  twelve  squadrons,  and 
seventy-four  field-pieces,  was  divided 
into  three  corps,  confided  to  Generals 
Echangua  y  Birmingham,  Zavala,  and 
Ros  de  Olano.  The  reserve  was  placed 
under  the  orders  of  the  gallant  General 
Prim,  and  the  cavalry  under  those 
of  General  Galiano.  A  fleet,  commis- 
sioned to  protect  the  landing,  maintain 
communications  with  Spain,  etc.,  was 
organised,  formed  of  thirty-four  ships 
and  twenty-four  canoneras,  a  total  of 
upwards  of  230  cannon.  The  expedi- 
tion was  placed  under  the  command  of 
Marshal  O'Donnel,  subsequently  raised 
to  the  title  of  Duque  de  Tetuan. 
Many  of  the  commanding  officers  who 
played  a  part  in  that  war  bore  Irish 
names.  O'Donnel,  Mac  Rohon,  Sir 
Richard  de  Lassausaye,  an  able  and  gal- 
lant officer,  formerly  of  the  *  Legion, 
O'Reilly,  and  many  others.  The  Bri- 
tish Government  had  opposed  itself 
explicitly  to  any  occupation  of  Tan' 
gier,  and  Tetuan  therefore  became 
the  object  of  the  war.  On  Nov.  19, 
1859,  the  troops  landed  at  Ceuta. 
After  several  combats,  called  battles, 
in  which  great  valour  was  displayed  on 
both  sides  and  victory  not  easily  ob- 
tained, the  battle  of  Tetuan  took  place. 
Muley  Abbas  (the  Sheereef  s  brother) 
encamped  on  the  hills  of  Djilali;  Muley 
Ahmed's  army  extended  over  the  slopes 
and  gardens  of  Tetuan.  About  40,000 
men  defended  the  city.  European 
discipline  and  tactics  gained  the  day, 
and  on  Feb.  6,  1860,  the  Spanish  army 
entered  the  city  which  had  surrendered. 
The  enthusiasm  in  Spain  was  very 
great  O'Donnel  became  another  Cid ; 
the  queen,  Isabella  the  Catholic  ;  Mu- 
ley Abbas,  Boabdil.  There  was  even 
some  talk  of  swallowing  up  la  ptrfida 


TANGIER. 


421 


Albion  at  one  gulp,  and  Don  Quixote, 
who  never  dies  there,  was  seen  winding 
his  way  through  the  land  of  Cer- 
vantes, lowering  windmills,  and  send- 
ing imaginary  floods  of  blood  from  goat- 
skins filled  with  wine. 

The  following  excursions  may  be 
made  from  Tangier:  To  Fez— Six 
days'  riding  by  Mequinez.  Permission 
from  the  sheereef  required  and  a  suffi- 
cient escort.  Very  interesting  to  visit. 
Population  of  Fez,  50,000 ;  of  Mequi- 
nez, 40,000.  About  £50  are  requisite 
for  expenses,  bakshish  (presents),  etc. 

Larache. — Two  days'  riding,  sleeping 
at  Arzilla,  where  there  is  an  inn.  Ex- 
cellent wild  duck  and  partridge  shoot- 
ing. Larache  to  Arzilla,  10  leagues ; 
Arzilla  to  Tangier,  12  leagues. 

Salle, — Five  days'  ride  by  Arzilla 
and  Larache. 

Rabat  to  Casa  filanca. — One  days' 
ride  ;  by  sea,  4  hrs. 

Azemoor. — By  Casablanca  two  days' 
ride  :  Azemoor  to  Mazagan,  1£  hr. ; 
Mazagan  to  Saffi,  two  days ;  Saffi  to 
Hogador,  two  days. 

To  Cape  Spartel,  9  miles  ride,  to 
see  the  lighthouse,  old  Roman  aque- 
duct, and  caves  of  Hercules. 

To  Old  Tangier,  2£  miles  from  the 
town  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay. 
Roman  ruins  of  a  bridge  and  an  arsenal 

N.B. — For  a  visit  to  the  sacred  city  of 
Wazara  a  sheereefian  order  is  required, 
and  an  escort. 

Climate. — The  zone  that  comprises 
the  coast  is  temperate,  and  the  plains 
are  sheltered  from  the  desert  wind  by 
ranges  of  hills.  The  mountainous 
zone  is  cold  in  winter ;  the  rains  in 
spring  sometimes  very  trying.  The 
heat  is  insufferable  in  summer.  Ave- 
rage temperature  on  the  northern  coast 
is  18°  Rh.  Rains  begin  to  fall  in  Octo- 
ber: in  March  the  heat  is  already  great. 
Tangier  is  better  situated  and  healthier 
than  Tetuan.     The  mean  annual  tem- 


perature of  Tangier  is  about  67'  Fahr. 
The  indoor  temperature  never  rises 
above  82°,  nor  was  ever  seen  lower  than 
52°.  In  the  open  air  the  glass  never 
falls  lower  than  49%  and  frost  is  very 
rare.  February  and  March  are  the 
coldest  and  most  rainy  months— rain 
falling,  however,  only  90  days  in  the 
whole  year.  The  most  agreeable  season 
is  from  end  of  March  to  middle  of  June. 
We  were  there  some  time  in  January, 
and  thought  the  temperature  most  de- 
lightful The  prevalent  winter  wind 
is  the  W.  ;  in  summer  the  East  wind. 
The  climate  is  on  the  whole  a  healthy 
one,  but  there  are  frequent  cases  of 
ague,  elephantiasis  (a  kind  of  leprosy), 
and  small-pox,  among  the  lower  orders, 
who  are  ill  fed  and  badly  lodged. 

Population.— About  8,000,000  ;  bnt 
15,000,000,  according  to  Zurbaran  and 
others.  The  division  by  races  would 
run  thus : — 


Inhabitants 

Amazirgs    . 

2,300,000 

Chelloks 

1,450,000 

Moors  and  mixed  Arabs 

2,800,000 

Arab  Bedouins  . 

750,000 

Negroes 

500,000 

Jews  . 

450,000 

Europeans . 

600 

Renegades 

200 

8,250,800 

The  first  two  are  the  descendants  of 
the  Roman  Mauri,  Algerian,  Babyles, 
Touaregs  from  Sahara  and  Berbers. 
The  word  in  Berber  means  noble. 
The  Moors  are  the  descendants  of  the 
Berbers  who  went  over  to  Spain,  and 
were  so  called  by  the  Visigoths  because 
they  proceeded  from  Mauritania;  though 
having  been  afterwards  mixed  with  the 
Arabs,  they  differ  from  them  in  many 
points.  The  Negroes  proceed  from  the 
Soudan,  and  are  the  objects  of  a  lucra- 
tive trade  ;  they  are  a  degree  higher  as 
a  caste  here  than  in  America.     The  im- 


422 


TANGIER 


perial  family  is  mulatto,  and  the  Moros 
de  Rey  are  mostly  black.     At  Tetuan, 
Tangier,  and  other  cities  of  the  north 
coast,   there  are   still  many  Moorish 
families,  who  speak  Spanish,  and  are 
the  descendants  of  those  who  were  ex- 
pelled after  the   capture  of  Granada. 
The  Jews,  who  form  an  important  item 
in  the  population,  are  the  remnanta  of 
those  who  were  exiled   from  Europe 
during  the  middle  ages,  from  England 
in  1290,  from  the  south  of  France  in 
1395,  but  the  major  part  from  Spain  in 
the  15th  and  16th  centuries.      They 
therefore  call  themselves  '  descendants 
of  the  catastrophe  of  Castile,'  and  their 
most  important  deeds,  signed  in  the 
synagogue,  often  end — '  Hachol  Bemi- 
nahry  Costilla / i.e.  'according  to  the 
usage  of  Castille.'    A  separate  quarter, 
called  the  Meltah,  is  assigned  to  them 
in  every  city  except  Tangier ;  they  are 
held  everywhere  in   great  subjection, 
and  the  laws  against  them  are  most 
severe.    They  cannot  till  the  soil,  nor 
ride,  except  a  mule,  nor  cross  certain 
streets ;   their  taxes  are  heavy ;  they 
must  dress   either  in  black   or  dark 
colours,   and  throw   their  yullah,    or 
black  cloak,  on   the  right  shoulder. 
The  women  are  so  handsome  that  the 
male  community  often   escape    scorn 
and  punishment   for    their   sake,   for 
*  Quis  contemnat  populum  Hebraeorum 
qui   tarn   decoras    mulieres    habent  ?' 
Their  dress  is  splendid  and  antique  :  a 
complete  dress  can  be  purchased  for 
£20.    Observe  their  '  sfifah,'  or  diadem 
of  pearls  and  diamonds ;  the  '  Alkor- 
sahs,'  or  wide  earrings.     The  nbails, 
kholkhjlls,    khouaten,    or    rings   and 
bracelets  which   are  worn  round  the 
arms,  legs,  fingers,  etc.     Some  dresses 
cost  as  much  as  £300. 

Mountains. — The  range  of  the  Atlas 
may  be  called  the  backbone  of  Morocco; 
the  highest  plateau,  the  Miltzin,  which 
ia  situated  50  kils.  south  of  Morocco, 


rises  about  14,500  feet  The  principal 
chain  is  the  Idraren  Dranii,  which  goes 
from  S.W.  to  N.W. 

Religion. — The  Mohammedan  reli- 
gion is  the  prevalent  one,  and  is  more 
strictly  observed  here  than  in  Turkey, 
Egypt,  «te.  Of  the  four  rites  intc 
which  it  is  divided,  the  names  and 
precepts  of  which  are  derived  from  the 
principal  doctors  of  the  law,  whose 
opinions  rule  in  matters  of  liturgy,  the 
Malekite  (from  Malek,  ob.  795  A. a)  is 
the  prevalent  one  here.  Among  the 
mountaineers  all  is  reduced  to  knowing 
the  formula  of  the  Law,  'Allah  on 
Allah  Mohammed  recoul  Allah* — i.e. 
*  There  is  only  one  God,  and  Moham- 
med is  his  prophet.' 

Government. — The  sheerif  is  the 
head  of  the  church,  the  prince  of  the 
faithful,  and  the  absolute  autocrat 
The  local  administration  is  managed  by 
bashas,  kaids,  etc.  Robbery  is  the 
order  of  the  day,  and  almost  excusable, 
as  the  former's  emoluments  come  to 
about  £12  a-month,  and  that  of  the 
Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs  is  £250  a« 
year.  On  the  northern  and  western 
coast,  at  the  principal  seaports  and  at 
Fez,  foreign  consuls  are  allowed. 

Army  and  Navy.  —  The  sheerif  in 
time  of  war  cannot  muster  an  army 
exceeding  50,^)00  men.  The  imperial 
guard  or  bokhan  are  10,000  in  number. 
The  artillery  consists  of  four  mounted 
field  batteries ;  their  arms,  the  spingard 
(£8  or  £10,  a  good  one),  the  sword,  and 
the  lance. 

Finances. — 


Revenue 

Expenses 


2,600,000  piastres 
990,000       ,, 


Rev.  net      1,610,000  piastres 


Animals. — The  lion  is  never  met  in 
the  north,  and  is  nowhere  abundant ; 
wild  boars  swarm  the  country,  and  are 
killed  by  thousands.     There  are  also 


TANGIER. 


423 


hyenas,  jackals,  panthers,  foxes,  ga- 
zelles, etc.  Monkeys  are  so  plentiful 
about  Tetuan  that  they  are  sold  for 
sixpence  or  a  shilling  each,  and  near 
the  same  town  leeches  form  a  very  im- 
portant speculation.  Ostriches,  water- 
hens,  woodcocks,  partridges,  wild 
ducks,  snipes,  and  eagles  abound.  The 
horses  are  small,  sinewy,  and  sure- 
footed, and  cost  from  £10  to  £25. 
Camels  come  mostly  from  the  south ; 
the  average  price  is  £15.  Fish  abound, 
especially  along  the  sea-coast.  Here 
is  found  the  red  mullet,  called  by  the 
Moors  the  sultan  of  fish  ;  also  soles, 
turbot,  and  mackereL  The  Tangier 
oysters  are  small  but  delicate.  The 
river  Omner-Bia  is  full  of  salmon ; 
turtles  are  found  in  great  abundance  in 
the  Ovieda  Belt,  and  the  Sebon  trout 
is  excellent 

Mines,  Botany,  etc.— The  mines  are 
very  rich,  but  not  allowed  to  be  worked. 
The  flora  is  very  rich  and  varied,  and 
deserves  investigation. 

Money. — Leaving  aside  flousand  other 
insignificant  coins,  the  Moorish  money 
may  be  reckoned  in  the  following 
manner  : — 

25  blankios  make  1  real  (2^d.) 
5  reals  „     1  Moorish  shilling. 

20  reals  „     1  Moorish  dollar. 

2  dollars        ,,     i  bontki. 

The  above  is  the  commercial  value,  as 
according  to  the  Imperial  standard  it  is 
inferior.  Government  pays  in  bullion 
and  receives  only  silver  and  gold.  Gold 
from  Europe  at  present  gains  by  the  rate 
of  exchange,  which  is  very  high.  Silver 
is  current,  both  Spanish  and  French. 

Weights.— -The  kantar  or  quintal  is 
112  lbs. ;  the  kantar-el-aroub,  whence 
the  Spanish  arroba,  is  only  75  lbs.  The 
libra  is  divided  into  libra  of  28  oz.  and 
libra  of  only  16  oz.  The  moudd1,  for 
measuring  grain,  etc,  contains  14,287 
litres  ;  4  of  them  make  a  sahh.     The 


moudd  is  divided  into  one  half  and 
quarts.  The  Spanish  fanega  is  also  in 
use.  The  Dhraa  is  about  5*51  deci- 
metres long. 

Tangier  carries  on  some  trade  with 
Gibraltar — grains,  fruit,  earthenware, 
fowls,  eggs,  etc.  The  garrison  of  the 
*  Rock '  mainly  subsists  on  the  cattle 
sent  over  from  Tangier — about  10,000 
heads  a-year,  at  about  £2  each. 

Vocabulary. 

Sbahalghir,  Good  morning  I 

Kief  kuntzi,  How  do  you  do  f 

St&j,  a  house,  a  roof  (the  Sparish  tejado). 

Bab,  door,  gate. 

Takka,  window. 

Zangha,  street  (Spanish  zanja). 

Yeh,  yes. 

Lah,  no. 

Ballak,  out  of  the  way 

Metziana,  pretty. 

N.B.— Travellers  may,  if  they  will, 
find  abundance  of  interest  at  Tangier, 
and  even  beauty  from  an  artist's  point 
of  view,  but  must  not  expect  either  a 
dignified,  pure,  Eastern  life,  or  well- 
ordered  European  ways.  With  so  mixed 
— therefore  half-breed — a  population, 
and  upon  the  skirts  of  so  many  differing 
civilisations,  the  life  partakes  rather  of 
the  vices  than  the  virtues  of  its  several 
component  types. 

Boohs  of  Reference. — 1.  '  Description  et  His- 
toire  du  Maroc,'  by  M.  Leon  Godard ;  Paris, 
i860,  2  vols.,  with  a  good  Map.  Very  inter- 
esting and  accurate.  In  its  notes  will  be  found 
lists  of  the  principal  works  that  have  been 
written  upon  Morocco,  such  as  Beauclerk's 
'  Journey  to  Morocco,'  Windhus'  '  Journey  of 
Mequinez,'  San  Juan  del  Puerto's  'Mision 
Historial  de  Marruccos.'  We  may  also  men- 
tion Mr.  Slane's  important  notes  on  the  Berber 
origin,  language,  and  literature,  in  his  translation 
of  Ebn-Khaldun,  and  Sir  J.  Drummond  Hay's 
graphic  Hunting-Scenes  in  Morocco  (Western 
Barbary,  1  vol.),  etc.  There  is  an  excellent 
map  published  by  Wyld,  and  a  large  one  by  the 
French  Etat-Major.  The  Spaniards  have 
published  on  their  late  campaign,  'Diario  do 
un  Testigo  de  la  Guerra  de  Africa,'  hy  Seftor 
Alarcon. 


424 


TARRAGONA. 


Capital  of  the  province  of  same  name ; 
Archbishop's  see,  Primate  de  las  Es- 
panas,  and  therefore  ecclesiastical  rival 
of  Toledo.  Seaport  of  Salon  close  by. 
Population  slightly  oyer  30,000. 

Boutes  and  Conveyances, — From 
Valencia,  141J  m.  ;  three  trains  daily, 
in  7-11  hrs.  For  description  of  Route, 
see  Valencia. 

From  Barcelona,  107  kil.  ;  vid  Mar- 
torell,  three  trains  per  day  in  3  to  4 
hrs.  (For  description  of  Route,  see 
Valencia.)  Vid  Villanueva — the  coast 
line — see  Indicador. 

From  Lerida,  103  kil.  Two  trains 
per  day.  For  description  of  route, 
see  Zaragoza. 

Hotels. — Hotel  del  Centro,  much 
improved ;  very  comfortable.  Hotel 
de  Paris ;  Fonda  de  Europa,  fair. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office. — Calle  San 
Augustin. 

Cafe's.  —  Tarragona,  Ranibla  San 
Juan,  with  Casino  on  first  floor.  C. 
Centro,  on  opposite  side  of  street. 

H.6.M.  and  U.S.A.  Consular  Agents. 

General  Description.— Tarragona  is 
admirably  situated  on  a  limestone  rock 
800  ft  high  and  sloping  to  the  sea. 
The  climate  is  delicious,  genial,  and  so 
wholesome  at  all  times  that  the  Roman 
praetor  used  to  make  it  his  winter  resi- 
dence. The  air  is  mild,  though  bracing, 
and  oftentimes  somewhat  keen  from 
the  high  situation  of  the  town,  and  the 
heat  in  summer  is  considerably  tem- 
pered by  the  cool  sea-breezes.  This 
very  old  town,  interesting  alike  from 
its  associations  with  the  early  history 
of  Spain  as  for  its  present  edifices,  is 
divided  into  the  upper  and  lower  cities, 
which  are  separated  by  a  line  of  walls. 
Most  of  the  houses  in  the  upper  portion 
were  built  with  the  stones  and  other 
materials  of  Roman  palaces  and  temples ; 
the  streets  are  irregular,  winding,  ill- 


paved,  and  narrow.  The  Calle  Mayoi 
and  the  Ramblas,  San  Carlos  and  San 
Juan,  are  the  best  streets,  and  are  being 
rapidly  improved,  especially  the  two 
Ramblas,  which  cross  the  upper  town 
N.W.  to  S.E.,  and  are  fine  handsome 
roads,  planted  with  trees  and  lined  with 
imposing  ranges  of  building.  The  views 
to  be  obtained  from  the  outer  promen- 
ades, over  the  sea,  the  port  and  the  fertile 
Campo,  are  charming,  and  very  exten- 
sive. Trade  is  improving,  and  the  port, 
secure  and  spacious,  is  now  frequented 
by  a  fair  tonnage.  The  city  withal 
is,  in  a  modern  point  of  view,  very 
backward,  dull,  and  without  any  im- 
portance ;  but  not  so  in  the  eyes  of  the 
antiquary,  who  will  derive  interest  from 
a  close  study  of  its  Roman  ruins.  Those 
fond  of  beautiful  churches  the  cathedral 
and  cloisters  cannot  fail  to  please. 

Historical  Notice. — Tarchon  (the 
citadel,  in  Phoenician)  was  one  of  the 
earliest  Phoenician  settlements  in  Spain, 
and  became  subsequently  colonised  by 
the  Carthaginians,  who  founded,  at 
Villafranca  dels  Panadas  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, Carthago  Vetus,  as  Csrtha- 
gena  was  the  Carthago  Nova.  She  sent 
her  soldiers  to  increase  the  army  of 
Hannibal,  and  the  ancestors  of  the 
Tarragonese  menaced  the  mistress  of 
the  world  with  ruin  and  desolation. 
Publius  and  Cneius  Scipio  occupied  the 
town,  sparing  the  Carthaginian  walls, 
but  building  upon  their  usual  cyclopean 
foundations.  Augustus  wintered  here 
26  B.c.  Tarragona  became  the  head, 
caput,  or  capital  of  Roman  Spain,  a 
'  colonia  togata, '  and  sided  with  Pom- 
pey  against  Caesar;  but  on  the  final 
victory  of  the  latter,  submitted  humbly 
to  the  lord  of  the  world,  sent  ambassa- 
dors to  him,  obtained  his  pardon,  nay, 
his  protection,  was  by  him  called 
*  Julia  and  Victrix, '  and  he  resided  here 
some  time  before  he  went  to  Cadiz 


TARRAGONA — CATHEDRAL. 


425 


Under  Augustus,  Tarragona  became 
the  residence  of  the  propraetor,  who 
had  under  his  orders  the  three  legates 
who  governed  Spain.  The  city  then 
extended  on  the  W.  from  the  western 
slopes  of  the  hill  on  which  it  stands  to 
the  banks  of  the  Tulcis,  now  Francoli ; 
on  the  S.  to  the  very  sea ;  on  the  £. 
and  close  to  the  Presidio,  were  the 
Thermae,  and  the  temples  occupied  the 
space  between  the  Baluarte  de  Cer- 
vantes and  the  Puerta  de  San  Juan. 
The  magnificent  amphitheatre,  of  which 
but  few  vestiges  remain,  rose  not  far 
from  the  sea ;  on  the  eastern  slopes  of 
the  hill  a  large  and  noble  stone  ascent 
led  from  the  latter  to  the  upper  city, 
where  was  situated  the  palace  of  Au- 
gustus, subsequently  called  (why  is 
ignored)  the  Castillo  de  Pilatos,  and  of 
which  little  remains.  At  the  foot  of 
the  S.  walls  of  this  palace  began  the 
spacious  circus,  of  which  the  outline 
may  still  be  traced,  which  was  some 
1212  ft.  long  by  270  ft.  wide.  Several 
houses  have  been  built  with  its  ruins 
against  its  very  walls,  and  the  area  has 
become  the  present  Plaza  de  la  Fuente. 
The  capitol  rose  on  the  site  of  the 
cathedral,  extending  as  far  as  the  Balu- 
arte de  San  Magin;  and  on  the  way 
from  the  archiepiscopal  palace  to  Puerta 
de  San  Antonio  there  are  still  three 
towers,  remnants  of  that  edifice ;  two 
of  them  embedded  in  the  wall,  and  the 
third  standing  isolated,  and,  though 
simple  and  plain,  stamped  with  the 
majestic  character  of  the  Roman  archi- 
tecture. Mosaics,  busts,  coins,  frag- 
ments of  statues,  full  of  character,  often 
of  artistic  merit,  turn  up  almost  every 
day,  some  to  be  reburied  with  scorn  as 
useless  objects,  others  collected  care- 
fully by  local  amateurs,  or  placed  in  the 
provincial  museo.  The  Goths,  on  their 
taking  Roman  Tarraco,  did  not  over- 
look the  importance  of  its  position,  and 
made  it  also  their  capital,  but  destroyed 


more  than  they  erected ;  and  the 
vestiges  of  Roman  magnificence  and 
civilisation  were  finally  reduced  to  a 
heap  of  ruins  by  the  avenging  and  ig- 
norant Berbers  under  Tarik.  Its  fall- 
ing into  the  hands  of  Christians  did  not 
better  its  fate.  It  rose  and  prospered 
as  the  rival  of  Rome  in  magnificence 
and  power ;  it  stood  a  monument  of 
greatness  that  was  to  pass  away.  The 
city  during  the  war  of  succession  was 
captured  by  Lord  Peterborough.  It 
was,  in  May  1813,  besieged  by  General 
Suchet.  Tarragona  was  at  that  moment 
fortified  by  400  guns,  18,000  men,  and 
the  English  fleet  lying  in  the  harbour. 
Notwithstanding  such  elements  of  suc- 
cess, and  although  the  resistance  of  the 
inhabitants  was  so  great  and  fierce  that 
five  desperate  assaults  were  scarcely 
sufficient,  the  town  surrendered  on  the 
28th,  and  was  cruelly  sacked. 

Sights.— The  Cathedral,  Church  of 
San  Pablo,  Aqueduct,  and  Torre  de  los  Es- 
cipiones.  Museo  Provincial.  Excursions. 

Catfteliral. — It  is  not  known  by  whom 
and  when  it  was  built.  Tradition,  a 
substitute  and  often  a  clue  to  history, 
designates  the  architect  as  represented 
by  a  statuette  placed  against  a  pillar  in 
the  chapel  de  Santa  Lucia,  and  well 
known  to  the  priests  of  the  cathedral  as 
*  San  Hipolito. '  Tarragona  was  granted 
in  1116  by  Ramon  Berenguer  el  Grande 
to  San  Olaguer,  who  began  a  church  in 
1128,  being  aided  in  this  by  a  Norman 
warrior,  Robert  Burdet,  el  Conde  Ro- 
berto, who  left  shortly  after  for  Nor- 
mandy, whence  he  returned,  bringing 
workmen,  architects,  and  funds.  The 
height  of  the  apse  contrasted  with  the 
central  nave,  the  style  of  the  pillars  and 
decoration  evince  traces  of  the  Norman 
influence.  The  works,  however,  pro- 
ceeded very  slowly,  for  by  a  bull  of 
Innocent  II.  (1131),  St  Olaguer  was 
authorised  to  raise  funds  for  their  com- 
pletion.     We  also  know,   new  facts 


426 


TARRAGONA — CATHEDRAL. 


having  become  more  distinct,  that  in 
the  12th  century  Maestro  Fray  Ber- 
nardo was  the  architect,  and  worked 
considerably  in  the  interior  of  the  ca- 
thedral; and  the  style,  architects'  names 
and  periods,  relative  to  the  different  por- 
tions of  the  church,  are  better  known, 
many  of  which  latter  were  added  in 
the  15th  century.  But,  however  want- 
ing in  homogeneity  the  church  may 
be,  it  must  be  regarded  asone  of  the  finest 
Spanish  examples  of  Early  Pointed. 

Exterior* — As  is  usually  the  case  in 
Cataluna,  the  edifice  stands  on  a  plat- 
form, and  is  ascended  by  eighteen  grees 
or  steps  (grados),  high  and  very  steep. 
The  principal  facade  consists  of  a  wide, 
somewhat  low,  and  deeply-recessed 
portal,  flanked  by  two  massive  square 
piers,  crowned  by  pinnacles.  The 
bases  of  these  piers  are  decorated  with 
series  of  relievo  Gothic  archlets,  which 
run  along  the  lower  part  of  the  walls 
forming  the  recess.  Above  these  are 
niches  for  twenty -one  statues  of  Apostles 
and  Prophets  under  truncated  Gothic 
canopies,  rudely  executed  but  effective, 
and  of  a  ferruginous  colouring.  Most 
of  them  are  the  work  of  Maestro  Bar- 
tolom£,  1278  ;  the  rest  by  Jaime  Cas- 
tayls,  1375.  Several  of  them  aro 
wanting,  which  is  explained  by  a  tra- 
dition purporting  that — bored,  we  sup- 
pose, with  their  monotonous  and  fa- 
tiguing attitude — one  of  them  quietly 
comes  down  and  leaves  the  place  every 
hundred  years.  The  ogive  is  but  slightly 
pointed,  free,  and  bold;  the  entrance, 
made  of  three  large  blocks  of  marble, 
is  divided  by  a  pillar  bearing  a  Virgin 

*  This  exterior  was  to  have  been,  when 
finished,  a  very  noble  example  of  the  early 
Gothic  architecture,  but,  like  most  cathedrals 
of  the  15th  century,  this  one  was  never  com- 
pleted. Thus,  according  to  the  original  plans 
(archives  of  the  cathedral),  there  were  to  be 
elegant  pinnacles  crowning  the  upper  piers, 
and  the  front  was  to  form  a  high  pointed 
almost  triangular  arch. 


and  Child.  Under  this  statee,  rudely 
sculptured,  are  several  statuettes; 
amongst  them  one  of  Adam,  from 
whose  rib  a  now-effaced  effigy  of  God 
is  drawing  a  tiny  Eve.  At  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  jambs  of  this  door  are 
sculptured  angels,  bearing  incensories, 
and  over  the  lintel  are  several  relievos, 
representing  the  Last  Judgment  Ob- 
serve below  the  groups  of  devils  and 
the  damnati,  and  in  the  corners  of  the 
upper  portion  two  angels  sounding 
trumpets ;  some  of  the  figures  are  re- 
presented issuing  from  coffins,  and  all 
are  in  suppliant  attitude,  praying  to 
Christ,  whose  effigy  standi  under  a 
canopy  a  little  higher  up,  seated 
between  the  sun  and  moon  and  angels. 
Over  the  heads  of  the  figures  is  a  short 
Gothic  inscription,  allusive  to  the  sub- 
ject. The  ogival  window  over  the  door 
is  large  and  effective,  with  good  Gothic 
open  work.  The  large  rose-window  m 
glorious  (date  about  1131).  sgr  Ob- 
serve, on  the  left  and  right  of  principal 
door,  the  two  low  circular  Norman 
doors  with  double  arches  and  relievos, 
representing  the  Dream  of  St.  Joseph 
and  Adoration  of  Kings. 

Interior. — The  cathedral  is  unique  in 
its  way,  very  different  in  its  severe 
simplicity  from  the  other  great  Spanish 
cathedrals.  It  may  be  classed  as 
an  Early  Pointed  or  a  Transition 
church.  It  is  cruciform,  divided 
into  three  naves  ;  the  central  higher 
and  wider  than  the  laterals ;  the 
roof  of  the  central  is  light  and  ele- 
gant. The  transept  is  lofty,  and 
lighted  by  fine  painted  glass  window 
by  Juan  Guas,  date  1571,  'somewhat 
poor  of  colour.  The  whole  breathes 
majesty  and  severity.  There  is  great 
soberness  of  decoration.  The  great 
defect  perhaps  is  in  the  treatment  of 
the  groining  of  the  nave  and  the  mas 
siveness  of  the  piers  and  arches,  which 
produces  an  impression  of  heaviness, 


TARRAGONA — CATHEDRAL. 


427 


and  gives  gloominess  to  the  whole. 
These  piers  are  twenty  in  number, 
formed  of  groups  of  shafts  Moro-Nor- 
man  in  style,  and  not  all  of  the  same 
height.  The  capitals  are  carved  with 
conventional  foliage.  The  ogival  arches 
are  very  solid,  square  in  section  and 
unmoulded.  On  great  holidays  the  piers 
are  hang  with  magnificent  tapestry, 
with  very  curious  costumes,  and  admir- 
able colouring,  belonging  to  the  Italian 
school,  some  dating  as  far  back  as 
1500.  The  nave  is  lighted  by  large 
14th-century  clerestory  windows  of 
three  lights. 

High  AUar.—W  is  Gothic,  and  full 
of'bassi  and  mezzi  relievi.  The  retablo, 
in  Catalonian  marbles,  was  begun  by 
Pedro  Juan,  1426-86;  Guillen  de  la 
Mota  completed  it  The  subjects  re- 
present scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ, 
and  the  martyrdom  of  Sta.  Tecla,  the 
tutelar  of  Tarragona.  Its  chief  merit 
lies  in  the  microscopic  details  handled 
with  certain  delicacy  and  patience. 
1ST  Observe  the  insects  hanging  from 
the  intertwined  leaves,  the  draperies  of 
the  statue  of  tutelar  elegantly  folded 
and  pure,  and  wrought  with  a  minute- 
ness worthy  of  a  Chinese  ivory-carver. 
The  grouping  itself  is  not  bad.  On 
the  side  of  the  Epistola  observe  the 
tomb  and  highly-finished  details  of 
dress  of  Archbishop  D.  Juan  de  Ara- 
gon  (ob.  1334) ;  the  five  figures  of 
saints  that  decorate  it  are  quite  out  of 
proportion.  At  the  sides  of  the  high 
altar  are  doors,  whose  elegant  ogive  is 
enclosed  within  a  frame  elaborately 
sculptured. 

Choir. — The  silleria  is  well  carved, 
but  of  no  artistic  value ;  it  dates  1478, 
the  work  of  Fco.  Gomar  of  Zaragoza. 
The  Archbishop's  throne  is  excellent, 
and  so  is  the  reja.  The  organ  is  very 
good,  though,  as  it  dates  1560,  it  is 
now  somewhat  consumptive.  Observe 
several  very  early  tombs  behind  the  altar 


and  in  the  transept  The  best  is  that 
of  Ferres,  Archbishop  of  Tarragona. 
The  baptismal  font  was  a  Roman  sarco- 
phagus found  in  the  ruins  of  the  palace 
of  Augustus.  The  view  across  the  tran- 
sept is  very  striking  ;  the  lantern  over 
the  crossing  is  octagonal  and  only  25  ft 
above  the  roof. 

Chapels. — Few  are  not  disfigured  by 
churrigueresque,  as  the  custom  of  found- 
ing private  chapels  in  churches  is  com- 
paratively modern.  That  of  Sta.  Tecla 
is  a  medley  of  fricasseed  marbles,  mo- 
dernised in  1778.  These  marbles  and 
jaspers  are,  however,  very  fine,  and 
deserve  the  mineralogist's  attention. 
The  sepulchre  of  Archbishop  Olivella  is 
excellent. 

Capilla  del  Sacramento. — Part  of  a 
still  perfect  Roman  vault,  of  great  length, 
formerly  used  by  the  canons  as  a  refec- 
tory. The  building  may  be  examined  in 
its  original  state  by  gaining  admittance 
to  the  lumber-room  behind  the  chapel. 
The  alterations — classical  portal,  etc. — 
were  made  by  Bp.  Agustin  about  1570. 

Capilla  de  la  Uncarnacion,  also  called 
de  los  Sastres,  as  being  under  the  pro- 
tection, we  believe,  of  the  Tailors' 
Guild.  Good  sculpturing,  elegant  win- 
dows. 

Cloisters  (13th-cerUwry  work). — They 
are  the  gem  of  the  cathedral,  and  among 
the  most  interesting  in  Spain  for  their 
style  and  detail.  The  entrance  door  is 
purely  Byzantine,  and  curious.  |W  Ob- 
serve in  the  centre  a  pillar  dividing  it, 
which  rests  on  a  base  formed  of  inter- 
twined serpents,  whilst  its  most  strange 
capital  contains,  among  other  subjects, 
the  Adoration  of  Kings.  Over  the  lintel 
above  this  are  the  symbols  of  the  Evan- 
gelists, and  effigy  of  God  in  the  centre. 
The  capitals  of  the  pillars  are  most 
curious ;  that  to  the  right  on  entering 
represents  the  three  kings  of  the  east, 
economically  sleeping  three  in  the  same 
bed,  and  wakened  early  by  a  winged 


428 


TARRAGONA — CATHEDRAL. 


valet-de-chambre,  that  they  may  rise 
and  proceed  on  their  journey  to  Beth- 
lehem. The  cloisters  consist  of  four 
bays,  each  some  186  ft  long,  with  296 
pillars.  Proceed  first  to  that  on  the 
right,  which  is  the  eastern  bay.  It  is 
formed  by  six  large  ogival  arches,  which 
rest,  together  with  those  of  the  groined 
roo£  on  buttresses  ornamented  with 
groups  of  marble  pillarets  ;  each  arch  is 
divided  half-way  into  three  small  round- 
arched  openings  divided  by  coupled 
shafts,  and  the  rest  of  the  wall  above 
occupied  by  two  small  Norman  win- 
dows within  the  ogive,  most  of  which 
retain  their  rich  filling-in  with  Moorish 
ornaments.  The  cloisters  are  lighter 
and  more  elegant  than  the  church  ;  and 
the  Romanesque  is  here  very  pure. 
Observe  the  cornice  of  chequer  and 
billet  mouldings,  the  zigzag  pall  and 
dog-teeth  pattern,  the  capitals  of  the 
piers  and  bases,  with  strange  subjects  and 
arabesques ;  some  imitating  palm-leaves, 
others  Moorish  basket  or  corbel  work. 
Romanesque  capitals,  modified  and 
bastardised ;  others  formed  by  serpents 
twined ;  great  originality,  and  even 
delicacy  in  the  execution,  being  observed 
on  many.  (ST  Notice,  among  the  rest, 
the  relievos  on  the  abaci  of  the  pillars 
that  correspond  to  the  third  circular 
arch  close  to  the  third  pier  or  machon 
in  the  eastern  bay.  The  abacus  repre- 
sents two  scenes  of  the  same  subject. 
In  the  one,  some  mice  are  gravely  going 
through  the  ceremony  of  the  funeral  of 
the  cat,  who  is  borne  on  a  hearse  ;  the 
procession  is  preceded  by  a  mouse  carry- 
ing the  hyssop  and  holy  water.  The 
corpse,  stiff  and  motionless,  lies  there 
to  the  utter  exultation  of  the  enemy. 
In  the  second  part,  the  wily  cat,  who 
had  counterfeited  death,  springs  out  of 
the  hearse,  and  hunts  about  the  terrified 
undertakers,  mutes,  and  priests  of  the 
micy  tribe,  who  fly  in  all  directions. 
The  capitals  under  this  abacus  are  sculp- 


tured with  cocks  fighting,  etc  Opposite 
is  the  Lavatorio,  indifferent ;  close  to 
this  capital,  another  representing  battle* 
between  gladiators.  The  rest  are  hunt- 
ing scenes,  historical  and  satirical  repre- 
sentations— legends  of  saints'  lives,  etc. 
eta  The  cloister  garden  is  curiously 
laid  out  into  Gothic  arches  and  beds  of 
ivy,  box,  etc.  Observe  on  a  wall  the 
words  '6th  company'  written,  a  vestige 
of  the  passage  of  British  troops  here. 

Observe,  also,  the  outside  of  the 
Capilla  de  las  Sastres.  At  the  extre- 
mity of  this  bay  or  gallery  is  the  Chap- 
ter-House, in  whose  hall  many  celebrated 
councils  have  taken  place.  The  interior 
is  indifferent ;  the  roof,  with  a  waggon- 
vault  of  pointed  section,  very  effective; 
the  entrance-door  Norman.  There  are 
several  vestiges  here  and  there  of  the 
palace  of  Augustus,  and  a  small  mosque 
or  mihrab  with  a  Oufic  inscription, 
built  A.D.  960,  and  the  stones  used  to 
build  the  cloister  are  mostly  Roman, 
and  of  the  former  edifice.  Observe 
from  the  garden  the  exterior  decoration 
and  form  of  cloisters,  that  of  Chapel 
de  las  Sastres  with  pinnacles  and  open- 
worked  gallery,  the  fortress-like  apse, 
etc 

The  Cathedral  of  Tarragona  is  a  sort 
of  Escorial,  and  contains  the  ashes, 
lately  removed  from  Poblet,  of  several 
mighty  kings  and  queens  of  Aragon. 
Here,  at  the  Trascoro,  rests,  at  last, 
Don  Jayme  el  Conquistador,  the  great 
hero  of  Catalufia  (1276),  the  son 
of  Pedro  I.  the  Catholic,  and  Marie 
de  Montpellier.  The  many  and  bold 
conquests  of  this  Catalonian  Cid  (that 
of  Valencia,  Murcia,  Majorca,  etc) 
are  all  poems.  He  was  one  of  the  first 
sovereigns  who  established  standing 
armies  in  Europe,  and,  among  other 
wise  institutions,  the  municipal  body  of 
Barcelona,  called  el  Consejo  de  lo* 
Ciento,  was  his  work.  He  was  on  hie 
way  to  the  monastery  of  Poblet  to  be 


TARRAGONA — EXCURSIONS. 


429 


come  a  monk,  when  he  died  at  Valencia, 
July  27,  1276.  On  his  death-bed  he 
confided  his  dearest  jewel,  the  goodly 
sword,  la  Tizona,  to  Don  Pedro,  in 
whose  favour  he  had  already  abdicated 
that  same  year  at  Alcira. 

There  are  no  good  pictures  in  the 
cathedral,  save  some  V iladomats  in  the 
Chapel  de  la  Concepcion.  The  stained 
glass  is  inferior  here  to  that  of  earlier 
times,  for  the  art  began  to  degenerate 
about  the  middle  of  the  16th  century, 
when  it  was  put  up.  Observe,  how- 
ever, the  transept  rose-windows,  repre- 
senting to  the  right  St  John,  to  left 
the  Virgin.  The  purple  and  orange 
hues  are  still  rich  and  deep.  The  enor- 
mous choral-books  may  be  looked  at, 
date  end  of  the  16th  and  beginning  of 
the  17th  centuries,  most  and  the  best 
by  the  female  Tarragonese  illuminator, 
Angelica.  The  capitals  are  indifferently 
designed. 

On  the  way  to  the  Cathedral,  in  the 
picturesque  Plaza,  visit  the  ancient 
Phoenician  well,  of  which  there  is  a 
model  in  the  Museo  Provincial  Also 
this  interesting  Museo,  for  its  own 
sake.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  the 
Plaza  and  contains  a  large  variety  of 
fragmentary  Roman  sculptures,  vases, 
etc.,  and  a  very  fine  piece  of  tesselated 
pavement,  with  a  Medusa's  head  in  the 
centre.  Ask  for  the  beautiful  set  of 
sculptures  brought  here  from  Poblet 
when  the  monastery  was  destroyed. 

Behind  the  Cathedral  stands  the  fine 
new  Seminario,  which  deserves  a  visit, 
both  for  itself  and  to  see  the  old 
Romanesque  church  of  San  Pablo,  a 
most  interesting  relic,  happily  included 
in  the  new  buildings.  The  high  altar 
of  the  Seminario  chapel  is  erected  upon 
the  Cyclopean  wall.  Before  it  is  the 
tomb  of  the  founder,  Archbishop  Benito 
Vilamitzana  y  Vila. 

Sta.  Tecla,  close  by,  is  also  an  inter- 
esting relic  of  the  12th  century. 


The  Cyclopean  walls  of  the  city,  the 
foundations  of  which  are  Carthaginian, 
are  full  of  character  and  value.  The 
remains  of  a  Roman  amphitheatre  may 
be  seen  enclosed  in  the  presidio  (prison) 
on  the  seashore,  but  are  hardly  worth 
a  visit. 

Excursions  may  be  made  from  Tarra- 
gona to  the  Roman  aqueduct,  1  league, 
1)  hr.  Take  a  carriage  from  the  hotel, 
40r.,  or  walk.  Follow  thel^rida  road. 
The  Fort  and  Bastion  del  Olivo,  the 
scene  of  fierce  resistance  during  Suchet's 
siege,  is  left  on  the  right ;  the  road  is 
dreary  and  desolate,  aloes  beginning  to 
usher  in  the  African  vegetation  of  the 
south.  The  aqueduct,  now  ruined, 
stands  picturesquely  in  a  small  valley 
amid  the  fan-like  palmito,  the  wild 
thyme  and  sweet-scented  rosemary,  and 
some,  but  rare,  pine-trees.  The  bridge 
is  now  called  Puente  de  las  Terreras, 
and  carried  the  water  of  the  Gaya  from 
the  Pont  d'  Armentara,  by  Villarrodona, 
partly  above  and  partly  under  ground, 
the  distance  of  20  m.  It  consists  of 
two  rows  of  arches,  the  lower  of  eleven 
arches,  and  that  above  of  twenty-five  ; 
its  large  square  stones  hewn  regularly 

together. 

Feet 

Width  of  piers  at  the  base         .  12 

Width  under  the  impost             .  6£ 

Spaa  of  arches  between  piers    .  22  J 

Length  of  bridge        .  876 

Height  from  lower  part  of  level  83} 

One  can  cross  it  easily,  though  not 
on  horseback  and  at  full  canter,  as  a 
local  hippie  hero  did  some  time  since. 
The  view  from  it  is  extensive  ;  Reus  is 
seen  in  the  distance,  the  Francoli  close 
by,  and  Constanti.  It  was  injured  by 
the  Moors,  strange  as  it  may  appear 
from  such  hydraulists,  and  repaired 
centuries  after  by  Archbishops  Joaquin 
de  Santiyan  de  Valdivielso  and  Armanac, 
to  be  again  destroyed  by  Suchet. 

1.  Another  excursion  from  Tarragona 
is  to  Torre  de  Us  Escipioncs. — 1  league 


430 


TOLEDO — HOTELS. 


N.W.,  same  conveyance,  fares,  and 
time.  Upon  a  large  square  base  rises  a 
monument  formed  by  huge  boulders, 
about  80  ft  high.  On  the  side  towards 
the  sea  are  two  figures,  each  rising  on  a 
small  pedestal,  their  heads  resting  in 
their  hands,  and  the  countenance  ex- 
pressive of  grief,  personifying  Sorrow. 
The  inscription  is  illegible,  the  word 
Perpetuo,  a  mockery  now,  being  alone 
deciphered.  That  this  is  the  tomb  of 
the  Scipios,  no  reliable  tradition  affirms. 
Extend  the  excursion,  if  possible,  to  the  old 
ruined  castle  of  Tamarit,  overhanging  the  sea, 
and  walk  back  along  the  coast.  The  views  are 
most  glorious.  Excursions  to  Reus  andPobht. 
See  pp.  509,  510. 


The  produce  of  el  Campo  de  Tan* 
gona  is  great  and  varied— maize,  corn, 
fruit,  and  the  excellent  sweet  and  dry 
grape  with  which  the  Vino  de  Pobledas 
is  made,  which,  though  not  very  good 
(aunque  cabe  mejoria),  is  probably 
better  than  that  made  in  Pliny  and 
Martial's  time,  and  which,  according 
to  both  (N.  H.  xiv.  16,  Mart  xiii.  118), 
rivalled  the  Falernian,  which  modern 
degustateurs  would  now  pronounce 
'  poor  stuff ;'  but  that  of  el  Priorato  is 
first-rate,  and  may  be  compared  to  any 
in  Oatalufia.  N.  B. —For  books  of  refer- 
ence  upon  Tarragona  and  Poblet,  see 
pp.  492,  493. 


TOLEDO. 


Capital  of  province  of  same  name; 
population  17,663;  an  archbishopric, 
having  for  suffragans,  Madrid,  Cordova, 
Jaen,  Cartagena,  Cuenea,  Siguenza,  Se- 
govia, Osma,  and  Valladolid. 

Routes  and  Oonv. — 1st.  From  Ma- 
drid by  rail :  time  2}  hrs. ;  fares,  1st 
cl.,  pes.  8.80  ;   2d  cl.,  pes.  6.65  ;   dis- 
tance 76  kil.    Three  trains  per  day, 
starting  from   the   southern   Station. 
An  uninteresting  and  slow  line,   but 
preferable  to  the  old  Castillejo  route. 
The    station    at    Toledo   is   near  the 
Alcantara    bridge,    outside    the    city 
and  20  min.  from  the  hotels.     Omni- 
buses in  attendance,  which  take  tra- 
vellers either  to  the  hotels  or  their 
office    in    Calle    Ancha ;    fares,    2r.  ; 
and  4r.  for  the  largest  portmanteau, 
a  tariff  regulated  according  to  weight 
2d.    From   Cordova,  Alicante,  Valen- 
cia,   Granada,  etc.      (South),  stop  at 
Castillejo,  whence,  in  1£  hr.,  to  Toledo. 
Trains   in   attendance,  corresponding 
with  the  express  trains.      3d.   From 
or  to  Talavera  de  la  Reyna,  by  dil. 
and  rail,  not  recommended  to  passing 
tourists.      4th.    From    or    to    Seville 


I  through  Almaden,  riding ;  not  recom 
mended. 

1  Hotels. — De  Castilla ;  a  good  new 
house,  but  poor  table.    Fonda  de  Lino  ; 

1  Fonda  del  Norte,  both  very  poor. 

I  Cafes. — Suizo,  Zooodover ;  Imperial, 
Zocodover.  Bookseller.  — Fando,  Calle 
Ancha.  Photographs. — Alguacil,  PI. 
de  Cuatro  Calles.  Toledo  ware.— 
Alvarez,  Cuatro  Calles. 

Bull-fights  during  August  and  Sep- 
tember, and  a  new  Theatre 

Climate. — Owing  to  its  elevation, 
treeless  suburbs  and  country  around, 
the  climate  is  far  from  being  either  plea- 
sant or  wholesome ;  there  is  great  heat 
in  summer,  and  Siberian  cold  winds  blow 
in  winter.  The  average  mortality  is 
1*35.  Plantations  are  now  slowly  be- 
ginning on  the  river-meadows  and 
skirts  of  the  town,  and  water  has  been 
recently  brought,  which  will  add  to  the 
health  of  the  inhabitants. 

General  Description,  Aspect,  etc.— 
Though  now  fallen  so  low  as  to  rank 
among  the  last  of  provincial  towns, 
Imperial  Toledo — the  beloved  city  oi 
the  Goth,  the  Toledoth  of  the  Jew,  *ho 


-^^kJCl)}    I 


T 


TOLEDO — THE  CITY. 


431 


red  its  wealth  with  the  Moor,  and 
«h  him  added  to  its  splendour,  and 
ally  the  Court  and  residence  of  Charles 
,  the  master  of  the  world,  el  C4scur — 
jars  still  a  seal  of  grandeur  and  pride, 
assiveness  and  eagle-dominion,  well 
efitting    that    rock-built   eyry    from 
/hich  the  soaring  watchful  spirit  of 
Jharles  V.  was  wont  to  sweep  across 
jhe  world  in  search  of  new  realms  and 
glory.      Upstart  Madrid,   raised  in  a 
morbid  hour  to  suit  the  purpose  of  a 
selfish  vow,  is  common-place  and  pro- 
vincial-looking ;  nothing  but  the  largest 
village    in    Spain.       Valladolid,    that 
other  capital  of  the  past,  is  mean  in 
appearance,  monumentless,  ill  situated, 
a  shifting  tent  pitched  by  the  roving 
monarchy  on  a  wind-blown  plain,  and 
justly  abandoned  to  the  corn-grower. 
Seville  itself,  notwithstanding  its  Gua- 
dalquivir and  wondrous  edifices,  cannot 
compete  with  Toledo  for  lordly  situa- 
tion, aspect,  and  metropolitan  charac- 
ter.    Built  on  a  high  rock,  almost  per- 
pendicular on  all  sides  save  where  it 
slopes  towards  the  Tagus,  as  if  intended 
for  the  throne  of  Hercules,  by  whom, 
legends  assert,  it  was  founded,  Toledo 
is  seen  from  a  great  distance  rising 
majestically,  with    its    stone  sombre- 
looking  edifices  spreading  terrace-like 
one  above  the  other ;  whilst  the  Tagus 
winds  its  way  beneath  the  walls,  along 
and  through  the  horseshoe  formed  by 
the  Prensa  del  Corregidor  and  Mill,  del 
Capitulo,  and  then  flows  on  through  the 
now  treeless  Vega,  once  so  densely  plant- 
ed with  the  mulberry  and  palm. 

Toledo  is  a  museum,  the  Pompeii  of 
Spain,  and  its  former  200,000  inhabit- 
ants seem  to  be  taking  their  siesta 
rather  than  to  have  departed  from  it  for 
ever.  Its  steepleless  churches,  crumb- 
ling palaces,  dilapidated  walls,  are  so 
picturesquely  grouped,  have  such  indi- 
viduality, colouring,  and  relief,  that  it 
seems  as  if  some  great  painter,   say 


Salvator  Rosa  or  Turner,  had  beer, 
allowed  to  realise  here  the  Irishman's 
idea  of  building  ruins.  It  is  striking 
at  all  hours,  and  from  all  points  oi 
view ;  but  the  tableau  is  grander  still 
from  the  Vega  below,  and  at  sunset, 
which  is  more  in  harmony  with  the 
feelings  raised  by  the  widowed  city  of 
the  Goth ;  for  then,  when  twilight 
smooths  away  the  hard  outlines  of 
the  emaciated  corpse  and  conceals  the 
many  gaping  scars  inflicted  by  time 
and  man,  the  masses  come  out  tinged 
by  the  last  rays  of  the  sun  with  roseate 
hues  and  rich  warm  browns,  with 
sufficient  depth  given  to  the  shadows 
to  produce  a  mysterious,  grand,  stern, 
and  solemn  vision  of  the  past.  There 
is  then  about  the  whole  scene  the 
silence  of  a  tomb,  the  solitude  that 
attends  misfortune,  and  the  calm  of 
fate  itself.  Indeed,  Toledo,  which  has 
seen  so  many  nations,  once  leading 
civilisation,  bend  their  knee  before  her, 
and  then  pass  away,  lies  neglected  by 
their  heirs,  and  forgotten  by  all  save 
that  immortal  race  of  painters,  anti- 
quaries, and  poets,  with  whom  the  past 
is  a  religion,  and  every  monument  a 
brilliant  page  and  a  deep  lesson. 

Toledo  abounds  with  prout-bits, 
nooks  and  corners  most  invaluable  to 
the  painter,  and  as  yet  but  little  known 
or  inaccurately  rendered.  The  streets 
are  steep,  narrow,  and  winding,  like 
all  those  made  by  the  Moor.  The 
houses  are  low,  made  of  stone,  col- 
oured by  the  hue  of  five  and  six  cen- 
turies, somewhat  sombre  and  severe, 
with  patios  and  other  Oriental  charac- 
teristics, which  the  Christians  adopted 
after  the  expulsion  of  the  Arabs — an 
exception  almost  general  in  Spain, 
for,  apart  from  the  distaste  for  any  art 
practised  by  the  infidel,  Spaniards  have 
not  only  never  understood  the  beauty 
and  excellences  of  the  Moorish  style, 
but   have  always  spoken  contemptu- 


432 


TOLEDO — ITS  HISTORY. 


onsly  of  it,  Mariana,  who,  pair  Stat, 
holds  their  customs  in  abhorrence,  calls 
the  Moors  '  poco  cnriosos  en  su  manera 
de  edificar  y  en  todo  genero  de  primor,' 
and  Pisa  asserts  that  Toledo  will  never 
recover  from  the  treatment  it  received 
at  the  hands  of  the  Moors.  And  yet, 
had  they  been  allowed  to  remain  longer, 
the  Moon  would  have  made  Toledo  a 
second  Granada,  and  carried  their  civil- 
isation into  the  heart  of  the  Castiles. 
One  of  their  poets  exclaims,  'Toledo 
surpasses  in  beauty  the  most  extrava- 
gant descriptions ;  she  is,  indeed,  the 
city  of  pleasures  and  delights.  God  has 
lavished  upon  her  all  sorts  of  orna- 
ments ;  he  has  given  her  walls  for  a 
turban,  a  river  for  her  girdle,  and  the 
branches  of  trees  for  stars.' 

Preserving  but  little  of  the  Roman 
period,  not  much  more  of  the  Gothic, 
Toledo  is  especially  rich  in  edifices  of 
the  Moorish  style,  not  all  built  by  the 
Moors,  but,  as  said  before,  adopted  by 
the  Castilians  of  the  14th,  15th,  and 
16th  centuries.  The  Gothic  has  some 
magnificent  examples  also,  and  its 
combinations  with  the  Saracenic  and 
plateresque  are  to  be  studied  in  many 
churches,  private  houses,  and  public 
buildings.  The  city  has  been  lucky 
enough  to  avoid  the  influence  of  the 
Graco-Roman  period,  although  it  has 
not  escaped  from  the  churrigueresque, 
by  which  many  of  its  houses  and 
churches  are  disfigured. 

The  Spanish  spoken  at  Toledo  is 
considered  the  purest,  and  some  Spanish 
writers  are  of  opinion  that  the  Spanish 
romance  came  to  light  under  the  sopor- 
tales  (arcades)  of  the  Zocodover,  arising 
from  and  being  formed  by  the  mixture 
of  the  many  tongues  then  spoken  here. 
Alfonso  X.  decided  by  a  law  that,  in 
eases  of  doubt,  the  Toledan  pronun- 
ciation and  interpretation  of  the  sense 
of  words  should  prevail.  One  of  the 
characteristics  is  the  full  and  broad 


pronunciation  of  every  syllable,  in 
which  the  Toledanos  chiefly  differ 
from  their  other  Castilian  pai&anos— 
viz.,  prado  is  abbreviated  by  Madiv 
lenians  into  prao,  soldado  into  soldao, 
and  the  like.  Patois  does  not  exist  in 
the  Castiles,  and  the  peasant  speaks  as 
good  Spanish,  often  better,  than  the 
nobleman.  The  very  few  exceptions 
are  found  only  in  the  pronunciation  of 
some  words — mesmo  for  mismo,  tor  for 
sol,  flol  for  for,  etc.  ;  the  Arabic, 
which  contributed  so  much  to  the 
formation  of  the  language,  survived 
at  Toledo  long  after  the  conquest  by 
the  Castilians,  and  was  adopted  in 
public  documents,  and  even  on  medals 
and  coins. 

Its  History. — If  we  are  to  believe 
the  bombastic  early  historians,  or  rather 
chroniclers,  of  Toledo,  who  divided 
the  hill  on  which  the  city  stands  into 
seven  imaginary  ones  to  assimilate  its 
situation  to  that  of  Rome,  the  origin 
of  this  city  is  contemporary,  at  least, 
with  the  creation  of  the  world.  The 
Cronica  General  and  Mosen  Diego 
Valera,  and  others,  mention  most 
gravely  the  names  of  King  Tartus, 
Rocas,  Pyrrhus,  and  the  Greeks,  whe 
came  here  to  found  a  colony,  '  por  via 
de  Inglaterra,'  as  'tout  chemin  menes* 
Rome.'  Others  interpret  it  from  Tole- 
doth,  the  Hebrew  'City  of  Genera- 
tions'; some  will  have  it  derived  from 
Thai,  height  in  Hebrew,  whence  atal- 
lah  in  Arabic  and  Spanish,  being 
Atalaya,  a  place  of  look-out ;  taUab,  a 
prefix  applied  to  many  Spanish  cities- 
the  Talaveras,  etc.  Nebuchadnezzar, 
Hercules,  and  Thubal,  are  discussed  at 
great  length,  whether  they  were  or  not 
the  founders,  in  the  chronicles  of  that 
happy  age  when  time  was  anything 
but  money,  people  credulous,  and  the 
cloisters  cool  and  shady.  Archbishop 
Don  Rodrigo  assigns  the  foundation 
of  the  city.  146  B.O.,  to  the  Roman 


TOLEDO — ITS  HISTORY. 


433 


Consols  Tolemon  and  Brutus,  although 
it  had  already  been  taken  forty-six 
years  before  by  Fulvius  Nobilior  (u.c. 
560,  b.o.  192),  when  it  was  already, 
says  Livy,  '  parva  urbs,  sed  loco  mu- 
ni ta'  (Livy,  lib.  85,  cap.  xxii.;  and 
same  book,  cap.  vii.)  Coins  have  been 
found  which  were  struck  here,  and  date 
of  the  Roman  Republic — they  repre- 
sent a  horseman  with  a  lance  in  rest, 
and  the  word  'Tole  .  .  . ;'  but  none 
are  extant  of  the  Empire,  according  to 
Florez,  who  denies  it  ever  was  a 
Colonia.  The  many  slabs,  with  in- 
scriptions, models,  etc.,  that  might 
suggest  the  contrary,  were  forged  by 
that  curious  tribe  of  pseudo-antiquaries 
of  the  16th  century  who  lost  so  much 
time,  money,  and  erudition  in  trying 
to  exalt  the  antiquity  and  privileges  of 
ecclesiastical  property,  in  which  many 
were  personally  interested,  and  whose 
cranicones  once  inundated  all  Spain. 
But  in  the  mythical  Hercules  we  may 
see  the  Phoenician  founder  of  a  small 
colony,  which  was  augmented  and 
absorbed  by  the  Jews,  who  fled  to 
Spain  after  the  fall  of  Jerusalem,  and 
peopled  so  many  Phoenician  colonies. 
Christianity  was  introduced  into  Toledo 
by  St  Eugenius,  a  disciple  and  friend 
of  St.  Denis,  whose  body  was  much 
sought  after — Alfonso  VII.  already 
obtaining  an  arm,  in  the  12th  century, 
and  Philip  II.,  a  still  greedier  collector, 
the  whole  body.  The  list  of  its 
bishops  begins  to  have  some  regularity 
only  from  the  Peace  of  Constantino, 
Toledo  never  ceasing  hence  to  be  a 
great  Levitical  centre,  and  chosen  by 
the  Spanish  Church  for  the  seat  of  its 
celebrated  councils,  the  first  of  which 
was  held  in  400  A.o.  The  Goth  Leo- 
vigild  (569  a.o.)  removed  his  court 
from  Seville  to  Toledo,  which  became 
the  capital  of  Gothic  Spain ;  the 
dynasty  was  consolidated  by  his  suc- 
cessor Becaredo,  who  (586)  established 

2 


the  Catholic  faith  over  the  hitherto 
prevalent  Arianism,  that  Protestant- 
ism of  bygone  ages.  The  Goths  now 
reigned  everywhere  ;  the  Romans  of 
the  Lower  Empire  no  longer  held  the 
coasts  and  ports  of  the  Mediterranean. 
Under  the  Goths,  and  especially  in 
Wamba's  reign  (673),  Toledo  became 
very  prosperous  and  important,  and 
its  wealth  enormous,  as  may  be 
gathered  from  the  nature  of  the  spoil 
that  fell  into  the  Moors'  hands  not 
long  after.  But  under  Wamba,  the 
great  benefactor  of  Toledo,  its  glory 
began  also  to  decline  through  the 
slow  but  certain  dissolution  of  that 
empire,  caused  by  the  very  nature 
of  the  Gothic  legislation.  Wamba 
recovered  from  the  poison  given  to  him 
by  Ervigius,  only  to  leave  to  the  usurper 
the  enjoyment  of  a  crown  he  had  not 
sought,  and  withdrew  to  the  cloister  of 
Pampliego,  where  he  died  a  monk,  one 
of  the  many  monarchs  who,  in  Spain 
more  than  in  any  other  country,  have 
changed  the  purple  for  the  cowl,  and  at 
that  period  of  life  and  glory  when  most 
actors  do  not  know  how  to  retire  oppor- 
tunely from  the  stage.  The  corruption 
of  Witiza's  court,  the  dissoluteness  of 
the  clergy,  of  which  the  third  and  fourth 
canons  of  the  16th  council  give  us  the 
details,  were  so  many  causes  of  the 
downfall  of  the  monarchy,  to  which 
must  be  added  also  the  long-proposed 
revolt  of  the  Jews,  provoked  by  the  in- 
tolerant and  cruel  decrees  of  Sisebute 
and  other  Gothic  kings,  and  the  coun- 
cils, the  16th  and  17th,  which  finally 
confiscated  their  property  and  made 
them  slaves,  drove  them  to  revolt,  and 
by  their  secret  intelligence  with  the 
Berbers,  paved  the  way  for  the  Moor, 
with  whom  he  divided,  as  usual,  the 
spoils.  Roderick  issued  now  by  the 
gates  of  Toledo  to  meet  the  Mussulman 
at  Guadalete,  dressed  in  gold  and  purple, 
and  standing  in  his  ivory  chariot,  and 
F 


434 


TOLEDO — ITS  HISTORY. 


followed  by  wavering  legions,  and  his 
defeat  and  death  sealed  the  fate  of  the 
Gothic  empire.  In  the  spring  of  712, 
Tarik  arrived  before  Toledo,  and  in 
March  of  that  same  year,  during  the 
festivities  of  the  Lent  (and  not  Palm 
Sunday,  as  the  Tudense  and  others  er- 
roneously state),  the  Jews  opened  the 
gates  of  the  city.-  Many,  most  indeed, 
of  Tank's  soldiers  were  Jews,  or  rather 
Moisantes,  as  the  Spaniards  called  them, 
and  descendants  of  those  Yemenite 
tribes  which,  three  centuries  before  Solo- 
mon, had  embraced  the  Jewish  religion 
and  spread  subsequently  over  Western 
Africa,  and  became  part  and  portion  of 
the  Berbers.  Some  did  also  follow, 
though  probably  disguised  or  adul- 
terated, the  Christian  religion,  and 
others  the  dogma  of  Zoroaster.  Thus 
many  of  the  Arab  names  were  derived 
from  the  Hebrew: — Yacoub  was  Jacob  ; 
Ibrahim,  Abraham ;  Yussuf,  Joseph ; 
Moussa,  Moses  ;  Haroim,  Aaron  ;  Ayub, 
Job;  Suleyman,  Solomon,  etc  All 
these  similarities  explain,  moreover,  the 
tolerance  of  the  conquerors  towards  the 
conquered,  especially  in  their  laws ;  but 
this  tolerance  turned  soon  into  persecu- 
tion, when  the  rigid  and  exclusively 
Mohammedan  Arabs  arrived ;  the  im- 
portance of  Toledo  decreased  when  Cor- 
dova became  the  court  and  capital  of  the 
Ehalifate,  founded  by  Abdur-r-rhaman ; 
and  the  Mozarabs  and  Jews  onco  more 
began  a  series  of  revolts,  which  paved 
the  way  to  the  capture  (May  25,  1085) 
of  their  city  by  Alfonso  VI.,  who  took 
the  title  of  Emperor. 

The  first  King  of  Spain  styled  'Ca- 
tholic '  was  Recared,  when  he  abjured 
Arianism  from  political  principles.  'His 
Majesty '  was  adopted  by  Charles  V. 

Toledo  now  regained  its  former  im- 
portance— was  consecrated  as  the  eccle- 
siastical head,  primate  of  all  Spain,  and 
so  loyal  to  the  throne  that  in  a  matter 
ofprimado,  or  precedence  in  Cortes,  the 


King  settled  the  difficulty  by  saying, 
'  Let  Burgos  speak  first ;  I  will  speak 
for  Toledo,  which  will  do  what  I  wish.' 
For  the  armorial  of  the  city  was  substi- 
tuted the  sovereign's  personal  one,  the 
Oid  was  named  the  Alcaide  of  the  city, 
and  the  archbishopric  was  given  to  a 
French  monk,  called  Bernard,  who  had 
just  established  the  Cluny  Order  at  Sa- 
hagun.  The  walls  were  repaired,  palacei 
built ;  and  so  elated  was  the  King  with 
his  triumphs  that  he  attempted  more 
than  his  means  allowed  him — was  routed 
by  the  Moor  several  times,  especially  at 
Zalakah— lost  his  son  and  the  flower  of 
Castilian  nobility  at  Nelis  ;  and  at  his 
death,  the  Moor  besieged  Toledo,  which 
he  would  have  recovered  had  it  not 
been  defended  by  that  same  Archbishop 
Bernard  and  Alvar  Fanez.  The  names 
of  Alfonso  el  Batallador  (IV.),  Pedro  el 
Cruel,  and  the  fair  Maria  de  Padilla, 
Enrique  of  Trastamara,  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  are  associated  with  manyevent- 
ful  pages  of  Toledan  history.  About 
the  beginning  of  the  16th  century,  To- 
ledo reached  the  acme  of  prosperity. 
Buildings  rose  in  all  directions,  the  no- 
bility lived  here  ;  and  the  court  of  its 
kings  was  unequalled  in  splendour  save 
by  that  of  the  imperitm,  in  imperiof  the 
Arzobispodo.  The  archbishops  of  To- 
ledo were  a  race  of  mitred  kings  ;  they 
had  monopolised  all  the  learning  of  the 
age,  hence  their  omnipotent  power  and 
influence.  They  were  great  alike  in  the 
arts  of  war  as  in  those  of  peace,  headed 
armies  and  won  battles,  drew  up  charts 
and  codes,  built  cathedrals  and  bridges, 
founded  universities,  colleges,  and  li- 
braries— the  Rodrigos,  Fonsecas,  Teno- 
rios,  Mendozas,  Ximenes',  Taveras,  and 
Lorenzanas,  were  the  real  lords  of  To- 
ledo, and  the  third  kings,  as  some  of 
them  were  designated.  Their  wealth 
was  enormous.  Navagiero,  Venetian 
ambassador  to  Charles  V.,  tells  us  that 
the  revenue  of  the  Archbishop  amount- 


TOLEDO — SIGHT-SEEING. 


435 


ed  then  (1524)  to  80,000  ducats,  that  of 
the  Archdeacon  to  6000,  and  the  ordi- 
nary clergy  to  200 ;  •  di  modo,'  he  adds, 
'  che  i  padroni  di  Toledo,  e  delle  donne 
praecipe,  sono  i  Preti,  i  quali  honoro 
buonissime  case,  e  trionfano,  dandosi  la 
miglior  vita  del  mondo  senza  che  alcuno 
gli  riprenda,'  hut  the  latter  specially 
applied  to  the  lower  clergy,  ever  igno- 
rant and  indolent  to  this  day,  and 
worthy  then,  as  much  as  in  the  darker 
ages  from  the  7th  to  the  11th  centuries, 
of  Alarms'  facetious  remark,  'Potius 
dediti  guke  quam  gloss©  ;  potius  colli- 
gunt  libras  quam  legunt  libros;  libentius 
intuentur  Martham  quam  Marcum  ; 
malunt  legere  in  sctfmone,  quam  in  Sa- 
lomone '  (De  Art  Predicat.  ap.  Lebeuf, 
Dissert,  vol.  ii.  p.  21),  of  which  the 
Span,  proverb  is  but  a  variante  which 
thus  sums  up  the  felicity  of  a  cv/ra,  'La 
olla,  su  misa,  y  su  Dona  Luisa.'  In  1700 
the  rents  of  the  Archbishopric  were  even 
greater.  In  the  curious  and  trust- 
worthy, though  in  Spain  prohibida, 
'Vita  di  Ossuna'  (Amsterdam,  1700), 
Leti  tells  us  that  it  had  *  di  rendita  an- 
nuale  300  mila  scudi  ;  quando  e  cardi- 
nale  (such  as  Cardinal  de  Borbon)  se  gli 
lascia  Goder  tutta,  ma  quando  6  altro 
Prelato  soli  cento  mila,  e  il  resto,  va  ala 
beneficio  del  Re,'  that  of  the  chapter, 
then,  was  of  200, 000  scudi 

Juana  le  Locawas  born  here  1479, 
and  was  also  proclaimed  in  the  Cathe- 
dral jointly  with  her  husband,  May  22, 
1502.  But  one  of  the  most  dramatic 
pages  of  the  history  of  Toledo,  as  also 
of  the  whole  of  Spain,  was  the  rising 
of  the  Comunidades,  of  which  this  city 
was  the  seat  and  cradle.  This  insurrec- 
tion, to  which  some  have  ascribed  most 
erroneously  a  spirit  of  democracy,  a 
modern  word  and  thing,  was  nothing 
but  the  resistance  of  the  nobility  and 
clergy  to  the  stranger — that  natural  foe 
of  early  nations  and  especial  bugbear  of 
the  children-peoples  of  the  south  and 


east ;  the  armed  opposition  of  nosotros 
(reduced  to  yo  when  the  horizon  is  cloud 
less)  to  the  Austrians  and  Flemish. 

In  the  Convocatoria,  sent  by  Toledo 
as  a  watchword  to  tne  rest  of  Spain, 
among  the  seven  pecados,  sins  or  plagues, 
of  Spain,  we  read  : — '  Lo  cuarto  los 
agravios  hechos  a  los  naturales;  lo  quin- 
to  los  desafueros  que  han  hecho  los  ex- 
trangeros.  *  To  which  the  burthensome 
taxes,  which  ought  to  have  been  para- 
mount, are  added  as  a  secondary  reason 
for  complaint.  But  the  taxes  were  paid, 
Padilla  and  his  accomplices'  heads  fell, 
the  clergy  of  Toledo  saw  their  cathedral 
sacked  by  the  mob,  and  the  nobility, 
weakened  already  by  Ximenes,  that 
Spanish  Richelieu,  bent  the  knee  before 
the  German  «  Caesar.'  When  the  Court 
was  removed  to  Valladolid,  the  pros- 
perity of  Toledo  began  to  decrease. 
The  population,  consisting  of  60,000 
vecinos  in  beginning  of  15th  century, 
dwindled  to  5000  two  centuries  after.  In 
1516,  80,000  fighting  men,  all  citizens 
of  Toledo  and  its  suburbs,  mustered  up 
in  the  city  ;  and  in  its  manufactures  of 
silk  and  wool  10,000  persons  had  been 
employed  (Mar.  Sic.  p.  308).  In  1565, 
the  decree  declaring  Madrid  Ulrica  Corte 
was  the  death-blow  to  its  already  much 
diminished  prosperity. 

In  the  war  of  succession,  Philip  V.'s 
competitor  offered  to  make  Toledo  once 
more  the  capital  of  the  kingdom,  were 
he  to  become  its  ruler ;  but  had  he  even 
succeeded  in  the  latter  point  he  would 
have  failed  in  the  former,  for  now  the 
play  was  over,  the  actors  gone,  the 
lights  put  out,  the  scenes  broken  up 
and  laid  aside,  and  the  few  remaining 
spectators  would  have  no  longer  under- 
stood the  old  glorious  words  of  the  past. 

Sight-seeing. — Cathedral,  Church  of 
San  Juan  de  los  Reyes,  Sta.  Maria  la 
Blanca,  el  Transito,  Sta.  Cruz,  and 
minor  churches.  Public  edifices — Al« 
cazar,  manufactory  of  arms. 


436 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


The  Cathedral.— Of  the  primitive 
cathedral  of  all,  where  and  what  it  was, 
how,  when,  and  by  whom  founded, 
nothing  is  known.  We  read  on  the 
consecration  stone,  which  is  preserved 
in  the  cloister,  and  was  discovered  1591, 
that  the  Santa  Maria  was  consecrated 
as  such  under  King  Recared,  in  the 
year  587,  and  that  several  councils  took 
place  within  its  walls,  at  which  were 
present  Saint  Eugenius,  the  first  arch- 
bishop (whose  body  was  found  in  the 
cathedral  of  Saint  Denis  in  France,  and 
given  to  Philip  II.  by  Charles  IX.)  of 
Toledo,  St.  Eladio,  Julian,  etc.  Ac- 
cording to  a  very  early  tradition,  this 
same  cathedral  was  visited,  Dec.  18, 
666,  by  the  Virgin  Mary,  who  came 
down  from  Heaven  to  invest  Archbishop 
Ildefonso  with  a  chasuble.  After  the 
capture  of  the  city  by  the  Moors  it  was 
turned  into  a  mosque,  which,  according 
to  some,  was  pulled  down  and  a  larger 
mosque  raised  about  1032,  in  Ismael's 
reign,  but  of  this  nothing  remains  save 
a  tank,  or  algibe,  now  in  the  patio  of  the 
church  of  San  Pedro,  and  converted  into 
a  miraculous  well,  whose  water  cured 
all  diseases  except  superstition,  and  on 
which  Alfonso  VI.  ordered  a  book  to  be 
written.  When  the  city  was  recovered 
from  the  Moors  by  Alfonso  V.,  in  1085, 
it  continued  to  be  the  Alj&ma,  or  Mosque, 
for  some  time,  according  to  the  promise 
of  the  king ;  and  the  now  destroyed 
church  of  Santa  Maria  Alficon  became 
the  temporary  cathedral.  But  Bishop 
Bernard,  who,  at  the  request  of  the 
king,  had  been  sent  from  France  by 
Hugo,  abbot  of  Cluny,  to  reform  in 
Spain  the  rule  or  order  of  St.  Benedict, 
and  became  Archbishop  of  Toledo,  aided 
by  Queen  Constanza,  a  native  of  France 
like  himself  (see  above,  the  History  of 
Toledo),  on  the  night  of  the  25th  Octo- 
ber, 1086,  entered  the  mosque,  de- 
stroyed all  traces  of  Moslem  worship, 
and  converted  it  by  this  coup  oVttat 


into  a  cathedral.    The  AlfalA,  seeing 
that  opposition  would  be  vain,  diplo- 
matically went  to  complain  to  the  king, 
who  was  incensed  when  he  heard  that 
his  promise  to  the  Moors  had  been  vio- 
lated by  his  queen,  and  begged  then 
pardon  for  it,  which  was  easily  granted, 
but  the  fait  accompli  was  respected,  and 
the  cathedral  continued  to  supersede 
the  mosque  of  the  infidel.     The  church, 
richly  decorated,  was  also  used  for  a 
monastery,  and  the  Benedictine  Monks 
of  Cluny  were  placed  here  ;  hence  the 
names  and  portions  of  cloisters,  vestries, 
refectories,  etc.    But  after  a  century 
and  a  half,  St.  Ferdinand  determined, 
according  to  his  habit,  to  destroy  the 
mosque,  however  Christianised  it  had 
become,  and  erect  a  magnificent  basilica. 
The   mosque  was    accordingly  pulled 
down,  and  the  king  and  Archbishop 
Don  Rodrigo  de  Roda,  in  August  14, 
1227,  laid  the  first  stone  of  the  present 
one.     The  architect  who  designed  and 
for  nearly  fifty  years  directed  the  works, 
was  Pedro  Perez  Diaz,  who  lies  buried 
in  the  sacristy  of  the  Capilla  de  los 
Doctores,  near  the  Sagrario,  and  whom 
the  epitaph  calls  'Magister  Ecclesi©,' 
and  asserts  '  qui  prsesens  Templum  con- 
struct ;'  he  was  one  of  the  best  archi- 
tects of  the   13th   century,  and  died 
1285.     In  January  1493,  the  roof  was 
finished,  and  the  main  portion  com- 
pleted,  therefore,   after  266   years  of 
almost  uninterrupted  works  ;  with  the 
exception  of  the  subsequent  additions— 
viz.  the  Mozarabic  chapels,  those  of 
Reyes  Nuevos,  Sagrario,  Ochavo,  etc 
The  architects  after  the  death  of  Perez 
were  Rodrigo  Alfonso,  Alvar  Gomez 
(14th  and  15th  centuries) ;  and  after 
them  Martin  Sanchez,  and  Juan  Guas, 
the  architect  of  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes. 
It  was  plundered  by  Padilla's  wife  and 
the  mob  in  1621,  and  by  General  la 
Houssaye  in  1808. 
Us  Style  and  Proportions.— It  is  w 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


437 


oblong  square,  except  on  the  E.  side, 
where  it  forms  a  semicircle,  measuring 
404  ft.  (Spanish)  long  from  E.  to  W.  ; 
and  204  ft.  wide  from  N.  to  S:  Mariana, 
no  connoisseur  after  all,  calls  this  cathe- 
dral La  Rica,  that  of  Seville  La  Grande, 
that  of  Leon  La  Sutil,  or  Gentil,  and 
so  on,  which  means  but  little,  and  is 
too  often  quoted  here  and  abroad.  The 
style  of  the  edifice  belongs  to  the  best 
period  of  the  Gothic,  which  prevails 
alike  outside  and  in  the  interior,  with 
a  few  exceptions  here  and  there  apper- 
taining to  the  Gothic  of  the  1 5th  or  florid 
decline,  the  plateresque  and  Grseco- 
Roman,  the  Saracenic  itself  not  being 
forgotten.  There  are  still  traces  of  the 
Byzantine  about  details  belonging  to 
the  earlier  portions,  of  the  cathedral, 
where  the  early  Spanish-Gothic  reigns 
in  all  its  simplicity,  majesty,  austerity, 
and  strength.  The  splendour,  light- 
ness, and  almost  Saracenised  character 
and  ricliness  of  details  of  the  Gothic  of 
the  15th  century  have  also  unrivalled 
examples  ;  and  there  are  not  wanting 
specimens  full  of  individuality  and 
typical  of  the  different  styles  that  pre- 
vailed in  turn  from  the  15th  to  the  18th 
century,  to  which  if  we  add  that  the 
greatest  artists  of  the  day  enriched  it 
successively — that  Borgona,  Berruguete, 
Cespedes,  and  Villalpondo  ;  Alias,  Co- 
pin,  Vergara,  Egas,  and  Covarrubias  ; 
and  some  hundred  or  more  artists,  were 
employed  during  six  centuries  by  the 
wealthiest  and  most  enlightened  clergy 
that  Spain  ever  possessed,  it  will  be 
easy  to  see  that  this  cathedral  is  a 
complete  museum  of  the  different  ec- 
clesiological  periods  in  Spain,  from 
the  13th  to  the  18th  century.  The 
exterior  does  not  correspond  to  the  in- 
terior in  harmony,  majesty,  details  of 
sculpture,  style,  etc.,  and  is  inferior  to 
that  of  Leon  and  Burgos,  where  the  ad- 
mirable grouping  of  the  masses,  the 
projecting  angles,  and  the  general  dis- 


tribution, produce  great  variety,  move- 
ment, and  life.  The  stone  employed 
inside  came  from  the  quarries  of  Oli- 
guelas,  situated  two  leagues  from  Toledo. 
It  is  easily  worked,  soft  when  just  ex- 
tracted, and  becomes  hard  with  time. 
The  external  portion  is  all  of  Berro- 
quena  stone,  save  the  ornamentation  of 
portals,  which  is  also  of  Oliguelas  white 
stone. 

Exterior, — This  is,  unfortunately, 
partly  concealed  by  being  blocked  up 
on  all  sides  save  one  by  different  build- 
ings, and,  moreover,  its  being  situated 
on  low  ground.  The  principal  features 
are,  eight  elaborate  ingresses  of  dif- 
ferent styles ;  a  tower,  the  only  one 
completed  of  the  two  proposed  ;  and 
the  facades  and  cloisters.  The  best 
view  is  from  the  Plaza  del  Ayunta- 
miento,  in  which  the  grand  facade  is 
situated,  and  also  from  that  of  San 
Yuste.  The  principal  facade,  the  west- 
ern, called  del  Perdan,  looks  to  the 
town-hall  opposite  ;  the  Archbishop's 
Palace  is  to  the  right.  On  the  left  of 
the  spectator  rises  the  belfry-tower, 
and  to  right  Cisneros'  Mozarabic 
chapel,  with  its  elegant  cupola  and 
Gothic  open-work  ;  both  these  portions 
of  the  edifice,  which  are  salient,  seem 
linked  together  by  an  iron  railing,  with 
pilasters  and  jarrones,  forming  a  spacious 
lonja  on  which  the  three  portals  open. 
That  to  right  is  the  Puerta  de  los  Escri- 
banos,  called  also  of  Judgment ;  to  left, 
do  la  Torre,  or  of  Hell ;  and  the  cen- 
tral, del  Perdon.  These  portals,  date 
1418-50,  were  designed  by  Alvar 
Gomez,  Martinez,  etc.,  and  belong  to 
the  rich  Gothic  of  that  period.  Over 
each  of  the  three  doors  is  a  relievo ; 
that  in  the  centre  represents  the  Virgin 
alighting  upon  earth,  and  placing  the 
casulla  (chasuble)  on  St.  Ildefonso,  a 
tradition  much  venerated  here,  and  re- 
produced in  every  possible  manner. 
Over  the  right  door  is  the  Last  Judg 


438 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


nient,  not  so  good  as  the  former  ;  and 
over  the  third  are  some  estrellones,  de- 
corated with  heads,  etc.  The  second 
stage  or  portion  of  the  facade  is  orna- 
mented with  a  relievo  representing  the 
Last  Sapper,  with  full-sized  statues; 
sixty  statues  of  saints,  kings,  and  pro- 
phets, small  heads  of  angels,  marble 
pillarets,  the  leaf  ornamentation,  and 
other  details,  profusely  distributed, 
which  are  all  of  that  period,  as  well  as 
the  Gothic  open-work  parapet,  and 
a  colossal  central  statue  of  Beligion. 
The  third  or  upper  storey  is  Greco- 
Roman,  and  a  sad  addition  of  Du- 
rango's,  which  dates  1787.  On  the  S. 
portion  of  the  cathedral  we  find  the 
facades  of  La  Liana  and  of  Los  Leones, 
the  former  of  which  is  the  most  recent 
of  all,  and  dates  1800,  when  it  was 
awkwardly  placed  instead  of  the  former 
Puerta  de  los  Carretones.  Its  style  is 
classical  and  indifferent.  The  Puerta 
de  los  Leoncs  is  a  beautiful  specimen 
of  the  rich  Gothic  of  the  15th  century 
(it  dates  1460),  and  is  the  work  of 
Egas.  The  exquisite  ornamentation 
by  the  imaginero  Juan  Aleman.  The 
upper  portion  was  modernised  at  the  end 
of  the  last  century  by  Durango.  Four 
lions  supporting  escutcheons,  and 
placed  upon  marble  pillars  before  this 
door,  gave  to  it  the  name  it  bears.  The 
door  itself  is  formed  by  a  magnificent 
pointed  arch  of  the  purest  style  of  the 
15th  century,  decorated  with  niches  on 
each  side,  with  statues  under  »ch  cano- 
pies, and  an  infinity  of  exquisite  de- 
tails— the  relievo  of  the  Virgin's  As- 
sumption is  modern.  Over  the  door 
are  very  high  relievo  medallions,  with 
busts  of  Apostles,  and  full-sized  sta- 
tues— they  are  modern.  All  this  is 
crowned  by  a  modern  front,  with  a 
colossal  St.  Augustin.  The  exteriors 
of  the  bronze  doors  are  a  masterpiece 
of  Villalpando  and  Diaz  del  Corral, 
and  date  1545-50.    The  insides  are  by 


Aleas  and  Miguel  Copin,  sons  of  Diego 
Copin,  of  Holland,  and  are  equally  ex 
quisite.  Obs,thevases,children,centaur3, 
battles,  etc..   These  doors  cost  68,672 
maravedis,  a  large  sum  then.    And  yet 
even  then  very  little,  when  one  looks  at 
this  entire  portal  and  takes  into  account 
the  labour  and  thought  necessary  to  pro- 
duce so  highly  finished  (and,  it  must  be 
confessed,  incongruous)  a  composition. 
At  the  other  extremity  of  the  tran- 
sept (to  the  N. )  is  the  Portal  del  Reloj, 
called  thus  from  its  clock  ;  and  known 
also  as  Puerta  de  la  Feria  from  the 
August  fair  which  commences  here.    It 
dates  end  of  14th  century.  It  consists  of 
a  large  pointed  arch,  on  the  sides  of 
which,  on  the  archi volts,  etc.,  are  several 
relievi,  hard,  rude,  and  vague  in  com- 
position ;  as  are  all  those  of  that  early 
style.    The  bronze  doors  are  the  work 
of  Zurreno   and   Dominguez    (1713), 
who  endeavoured  to  imitate  those  oi 
Los    Leones.      The  insides  are  prior 
to  this  date,  and  the  carvings  good. 
The  relievi   over  the   door    are  very 
early,  and  represent  scenes  from  the 
life  of  the  Virgin.     The  statues  and 
groups  flanking    the    ingress  have  a 
mysterious    meaning,    which    has   re- 
mained unexplained — observe  a  queen 
holding  a  book,  a  groom  leading  three 
horses,   two   women    wrapped    up   in 
cloaks,  etc.    The  rest  of  this  facade  is 
modern.     On  the  right  of  this  facade 
is  the  salient  chapel  of  San  Pedro ;  on 
the  left  the  Sagrario  and  Ochavo.     Be- 
tween these  runs  a  very  fine  Gothic 
railing  of  the  end  of  fifteenth  century, 
the  work  of  Maestro  Paulo.    The  towei 
on  the  left,  very  high  and  square,  is  the 
work  of  Alvar  Gomez,  and  dates  1425. 
The  clock  dates  1792,  and  cost  £7000. 
The  upper  capital  was  added  by  Du- 
rango.     The   relievi   are   indifferent 
On  the  N.  side  we  have  still  two  more 
portals;    that  of  Sta.    Catalina,  the 
earliest  dates  14th  century.    Oheew 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


439 


the  Gothic  gilt  ornaments  and  black 
Blate  pillarets.  A  marble  pillar  divides 
it,  the  capital  of  which  is  formed  by 
a  basso-relievo,  representing  the  burial 
of  St.  Catherine ;  and  over  this  pillar 
rests  the  effigy  of  the  saint,  painted, 
and  'estofado,'  and  two  larger  ones  at 
the  extremities.  Over  the  lintel  is  the 
Annunciation  of  the  Virgin,  painted 
expressly  by  Luis  de  Velasco,  in  1584, 
The  Portal  de  la  PreserUacion  is  a  gem 
of  the  plateresque  at  its  best  period. 
It  was  begun  in  1565,  and  completed 
about  end  of  16th  century,  and  is  the 
work  of  Castaiieda,  Hernandez,  Man- 
zano,  and  others.  The  arch  is  40  ft. 
high,  and  20  ft.  broad;  the  pilasters, 
frieze,  cornice,  and  triangular  summit 
which  crowns  it  are  decorated  with 
exquisite  relievi ;  the  statues  and  me- 
dallions are  good.  Over  the  key -stone, 
which  binds  and  closes  the  sweep  of 
the  arch,  is  an  oval  mezzo-relievo,  re- 
presenting the  mystery  of  the  Presen- 
tation of  the  Virgin. 

The  Tower. — This  is  a  noble  monu- 
ment, lofty,  elegant,  and  full  of  charac- 
ter. It  is  329  ft.  high,  and  was  begun 
by  Archbishop  Tenorio,  1380-1440. 
It  is  the  work  of  Rodrigo  Alfonso  and 
Alvar  Gonzalez.  It  is  composed  of 
three  Gothic  storeys,  and  is  crowned 
by  a  circle  or  crown  of  iron  rays,  ter- 
minating in  a  colossal  cross.  The 
Berroqueiia  stone,  that  of  La  Rosa, 
marbles  and  slate,  are  the  materials, 
and  the  general  effect  is  that  of  a  col- 
lossal  filigree  custodia,  or  chandelier 
of  Arfes,  seen  by  the  wrong  end  of  a 
telescope.  The  tiara-like  and  effective 
circle  of  rays  is  crowned  by  balls, 
a  cross,  a  weathercock,  and  an  arrow. 
The  great  bells  of  the  cathedral  are 
here,  amongst  which  is  the  'Gorda,' 
which  was  put  up  in  1753,  and  weighs 
1543  arrobes.  Its  sounds  are  excellent. 
The  Matraca,  Esquilon,  etc.,  are  so 
aiany  lions  with  the  campanero ;  but 


chimes  and  carillons  are  not  things  oi 
Spain,  though  church-bells  are  used 
for  more  positive  ends,  such  as  'el 
toque  a  rebato,  a  somaten,  a  fuego, '  when 
the  number  of  campanadas  designates 
the  exact  foirrio  where  the  fire  breaks 
out;  and  is  duly  learnt  by  heart  by 
every  prudent  vecino,  so  much  so,  that 
those  ignorant  of  the  toques  are  held 
next  to  idiots,  whence  the  proverb, 
'  Repican  campanas  y  no  sabe  donde,' 
equal  to  being  informed  of  the  most 
common  thing  :  '  Hombre  estas  como 
si  no  nubieres  oido  campanas.' 

For  the  cloisters,  see  end  of  descrip- 
tion of  the  cathedral.* 

Interior. — The  interior  is  divided 
into  five  naves,  the  lateral  chapels  oc- 
cupying the  sixth  and  seventh  at  the 
E.  side ;  that  of  the  centre  is  the  largest, 
and  measures  116  ft.  high — the  lateral 
diminish  gradually  in  height  and 
width.  The  roof  is  composed  oi 
seventy-two  bovedas,  or  vaults,  resting 
on  eighty-eight  piers,  forming  groups 
of  shafts,  varying  from  eight  to  six- 
teen, and  standing  on  one  only  and 
same  base;  the  capitals  are  composed 
of  a  plain  foliage.  Some  of  the  shafts 
stop  half-way  to  receive  the  arches 
of  communication  ;  the  remaining  con- 
tinue to  rise  and  bend  with  the  gentle 
curve  of  a  palm  to  support  the  arches, 
forming  the  groined  roof  of  the  cen- 
tral nave.  The  750  stained  windows 
shine  between  these  rows  of  arches, 
and  form  a  treble  wall  of  glorious 
painted  glass.  The  ogive  between  the 
decrescent  central  and    mediate  bays 


*  Principal  Festivities.— -The  Holy  Week 
ceremonies  are  very  magnificent,  far  superior 
to  those  of  Madrid,  and  well  worth  seeing. 
San  Ildefonso,  the  Tutelar  Saint's  festival,  is 
also  a  great  day  at  the  cathedral  and  town 
(January  22). 

tS"  I/ours.— The  cathedral  is  open  daily, 
from  7  a.m.  to  the  oracion  (evening  about  6); 
but  to  see  the  jewels  and  choir,  the  visitor! 
must  choose  some  time  after  2  p.  M 


440 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


is  sharply  pointed  and  of  very  ele- 
gant design  ;  between  these  latter  and 
the  extreme  lateral  and  lower  ones, 
the  ogive  is  severer,  not  so  pointed, 
and  of  an  earlier  style.  On  the  capi- 
tals and  bases  of  most  of  the  piers, 
excepting  perhaps  those  of  the  central 
nave,  where  the  15th  century  is  seen 
in  all  its  splendour,  the  Byzantine  has 
left  many  a  vestige  of  its  influence, 
marked,  moreover,  in  other  portions  of 
the  building.  The  pavement  is  of 
bluish- white  marble  placed  as  a  chess- 
board. The  extreme  lateral  naves  are 
railed  by  excellent  rejas,  to  form  twenty- 
three  chapels  of  different  styles  and 
periods.  In  the  centre  the  choir  sadly 
blocks  up  the  nave,  and  conceals  the 
high  chapel  and  altar.  The  whole 
edifice  rises  on  a  spacious  crypt  or 
vault,  distributed  into  five  naves,  also 
of  same  width  and  length,  but  not 
height,  and  divided  by  eighty-eight 
square  piers,  which  support  the  upper 
ones  above.  The  roof  outside  was  a 
giarno  for  a  long  time,  that  is,  was 
covered  in  Nonly  by  Gothic  open-work 
parapets ;  it  was  tiled  up  subsequently. 
The  exterior  means  of  strengthening 
the  walls  by  flying  buttresses  have  also 
led  to  effective  decoration  and  effect. 

The  transept  is  spacious,  and  lighted 
by  two  splendid  rose  windows.  Over 
the  arches  formed  by  the  intersection 
of  the  four  lower  bays,  runs  a  long 
gallery  of  curved  diminutive  arches. 
The  salient  angles  formed  by  the  meet- 
ing of  the  cylindrical  vaults  which 
cross  each  other,  and  the  joints  of  the 
stones,  are  marked  out  with  gold  fil- 
lets. The  niches  contain  several  stiff, 
rudely-executed  statuettes,  of  white 
stone,  which  seem,  as  it  were,  the 
ghosts  of  the  grave  and  holy  per- 
sonages, who,  full  of  life  and  move- 
ment, radiant  with  light  and  colour, 
draped  in  gold  brocade  tissues,  stand 
In  the  painted  windows   just  above. 


The  lateral  naves  wind  with  a  beautiful 
sweep  round  the  apse,  offering  to  the 
view  a  charming  perspective  when  seen 
a  little  lower  down,  and  through  the 
arches  opening  round  the  presbytery. 
Another  good  point  of  view  is  from  the 
Altar  of  the  Descent,  and  also  from 
Puerta  del  Perdon.  There  breathes 
throughout  a  spirit  of  grandeur,  lofti- 
ness, and  majestic  repose.  The  pomp 
and  splendour  of  the  ogival  of  15th 
century  is  to  be  admired  as  much  as  the 
simplicity,  mystic  character,  and  sober 
style  of  the  13th.  It  is  lower  than  that 
of  Seville,  smaller  too,  and  not  so  well 
lighted. 

High  Chapel. — Prior  to  end  of  15th 
century,  the  high  chapel  occupied  only 
the  space  between  the  railing  and  the 
steps  leading  to  the  presbytery — that  is, 
was  placed  under  the  second  boveda 
(vaulted  roof)  of  central  nave  ;  and  the 
first  boveda,  now  the  presbytery,  formed 
a  chapel  called  de  los  Reyes    Viejos, 
which  was  founded  by  King  Sancho  el 
Bravo  for  a  burial  chapel  for  the  royal 
family  ;  and  in  it  were  buried  Sancho 
the  Brave,  Sancho  el  Deseado,  Alfon- 
so VII.  his  father,  king  of  Portugal, 
Don    Sancho    Capelo,    etc.      Cardinal 
Cisneros    (better    known    to    English 
readers  as  Ximenes)  obtained  from  the 
Catholic  kings  leave  to  enlarge  the  high 
chapel,  leaving  the  royal  tombs  where 
they  were.     This  took  place  in  1498, 
and  shortly  after  the  retablo  and  present 
tombs,    etc.,   were    completed.      This 
chapel  is  56  ft.  long,  by  45  ft  to  50  ft, 
according  to  distances  between  piers, 
and  116  ft.  high ;  its  form  being  that 
of  the  cathedral  itself.     The  pavement 
is  a  mosaic,  formed  by  white  and  red 
marbles,  veined  over,   and  describing 
geometrical   figures.      Over   the   roo£ 
arches,  and  flying  buttresses,  the  joints 
of  the  stones  are  gorgeously  gilt  and 
painted  blue,  as  well  as  the  upper  half 
of  the  piers.     From  half-way  down  the 


TOLEDO — ROYAL  TOMBS. 


441 


piers  are  decorated  with  an  infinity  of 
statuettes  of  kings,  archbishops,  and 
saints,  and  a  multitude  of  angels  play- 
ing on  different  instruments,  and  with 
outspread  wings,  that  want  but  incense 
to  raise  them  again  from  the  spot  where 
they  have  alighted.  The  sides  or  ribs, 
so  to  speak,  of  the  chapel,  are  formed 
by  a  giorno  walls.  That  to  the  right, 
especially,  is  admirable  for  the  open 
work — so  light,  and  the  stone  so  trans- 
parent. The  lower  arches  have  celosias, 
through  which  the  lateral  naves  are 
seen.  The  arches  and  buttresses  of  the 
second  and  third  storeys  or  portions  are 
decorated  with  two  rows  of  statues,  the 
lower  being  life-size  and  mostly  mitred. 
The  elaborate  Gothic  side-walls  are 
coeval  with  the  earlier  portions  of  the 
cathedral.  Over  the  lateral  arches  run 
galleries  of  diminutive  Moro-Gothic 
archlets,  divided  by  paired  pillarets, 
with  colossal  statues ;  and  over  them 
open  large  windows  and  roses  of  painted 
glass,  with  figures  of  saints  and  pro- 
phets, and  shields  of  Royal  arms,  and 
those  of  Cisneros. 

The  reja  is  superb,  and  made  of  a 
combination  of  copper,  iron,  and  brass. 
It  is  the  work  of  Francisco  de  Villal- 
pando,  the  rival  of  Berruguete  and 
Borgoita,  who  took  ten  years  to  com- 
plete it,  1538-48,  for  which  he  received 
about  £4700,  equal  now,  certainly,  to 
£20,000.  It  is  46  ft.  wide,  by  21  ft. 
high,  and  is  a  masterpiece  of  the 
plateresque.  Observe  the  admirable 
finish  and  composition  of  the  bassi- 
relievi  details,  shields  of  arms,  candela- 
bra, and  a  colossal  crucifixion.  It  was 
formerly  all  gilt  and  silvered.  What 
must  this  cathedral  have  been  then  ! 
The  plateresque  pulpits  are  of  bronze, 
and  of  admirable  workmanship ;  they 
are  also  by  Villalpando.  At  the  ex- 
tremities of  the  chapel,  and  upon  piers, 
stand  the  statues  (on  the  left)  of  the 
celebrated   shepherd -saint   Isidro,   or 


Malo,  who  semi-miraculously  showed 
to  Alfonso  VIII.  a  short  cut  across  the 
hills  to  Las  Navas,  where  he  so  signally 
defeated  the  infidel.  On  the  opposite 
pier  (to  the  right)  is  the  Alfaqui,  whe 
interceded  with  Alfonso  in  behalf  of 
Queen  Costanza  and  Bishop  Bernard, 
when,  contrary  to  the  king's  wish  and 
promise,  they  had  converted  by  force 
the  mosque  into  a  church.  On  the 
side  of  the  Epistle,  within  a  niche,  is 
also  a  statue  of  Alfonso  VI. 

Tomb  of  Cardinal  Mendoza. — Of  the 
two  side  walls,  that  on  side  of  the 
Gospel  was  destroyed  to  make  way 
for  this  mausoleum.  On  the  left  of 
altar  is  the  glorious  sepulchre  of  the 
Grand  Cardinal  of  Spain,  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Toledo,  Mendoza,  the  tercer 
rey  (ob.  1495).  It  is  all  of  precious 
marbles,  with  two  facades — one  formed 
by  the  sarcophagus,  a  recumbent  effigy, 
and  the  other  being  an  altar  with  a 
good  medallion  representing  the  Adora- 
tion of  the  Cross,  which  is  held  by  St. 
Helena,  by  the  pious  prelate  in  the 
presence  of  St.  Peter.  It  is  a  fine  ex- 
ample of  the  early  plateresque,  and  the 
first  work  executed  in  this  cathedral 
by  A.  de  Covarrubias.  The  statuettes 
and  details -are  profusely  distributed  and 
well  executed. 

Royal  Tombs. — Around  the  high 
altar.  Over  open  arches  railed  in  by 
gilt  rejas  are  admirably-worked  Gothic 
niches,  or  rather  recesses,  decorated 
with  statuettes  and  gilt  pinnacles  and 
niche  work.  At  the  back  of  these 
recesses  are  richly-coloured  escutcheons 
of  Castile.  On  those  on  the  left  the 
Austrian  eagles  may  be  seen  appearing 
at  so  early  a  date — for  they  are  all  of 
the  same  date,  1507 — and  the  work  of 
Diego  Copin  (Kopfen?)  of  Holland. 
These  truly  regal  enterramientos,  so 
superior  in  every  respect  to  the  urns  at 
the  Escorial,  are  crowned  by  a  charming 
open  work  interlaced  arch,  or  rather  t 


443 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


traceried  festoon,  decorated  with  sta- 
tuettes, filigree  pinnacles,  terminating 
in  a  sort  of  gossamer,  airy  tabernacle, 
of  great  elegance  and  lightness.  The 
tombs  themselves,  as  well  as  the  jacent 
effigies  of  marble,  are  much  earlier  than 
the  rest,  and  were  placed  in  the  chapel 
of  La  Santa  Cruz  or  Reyes  Viejos,  in 
1829,  by  Sancho  el  Bravo.  On  the 
side  of  the  Gospel  are  the  tombs  of  the 
Emperor  Alfonso  VII.  and  the  Infante 
D.  Pedro  de  AguUar ;  on  that  of  the 
Epistle,  those  of  D.  Sancho  el  Bravo 
and  D.  Sancho  el  Deseado.  The  Infante 
Archbishops,  etc.,  who  lie  here  also, 
have  no  inscriptions  or  statues. 

Retablo. — This  gem  of  the  High 
Church  rises  from  the  pavement  to  the 
very  roof ;  it  was  put  up  for  Cardinal 
Cisneros,  1500-4,  and  was  the  work  of 
twenty-seven  artists.  It  is  of  alerce- 
wood,  and  is  painted  and  gilt.  The 
design  was  made  by  Felipe  de  Vigarni, 
better  known  as  Borgona,  and  Alfonso 
Sanchez,  who  employed  under  their 
orders  such  men  as  Diego  Copin, 
Petit  Jean,  or  Petit  Juan,  a  French- 
man or  an  Aragonese  (the  Limousin 
is  still  spoken,  and  was  then  chiefly 
in  many  portions  of  Aragon),  and  Al- 
monacid,  who  was,  from  his  name, 
probably  a  converted  Moor.  The 
painting  and  gilding  were  executed 
under  the  direction  of  Juan  de  Borgona, 
Philip's  brother.  This  retablo  is  con- 
sidered one  of  the  best  in  Spain,  and  a 
magnificent  example  of  the  Florid 
Gothic.  It  is  divided  into  five  storeys, 
separated  perpendicularly  by  richly- 
worked  columns.  The  subjects  are 
taken  from  the  New  Testament ;  the 
profusion  of  statuettes  and  details  of 
ornamentation,  though  great,  do  not 
mar  the  general  effect ;  and  the  com- 
position and  execution  are  admirable. 
The  central  pyramidal  custodia  looks 
like  filigree-work  :  the  Virgin  is  seated 
under  it,  with  angels  playing  on  in- 


struments :   a  colossal  calvario  crowns 
the  whole  poem. 

The    Transparente.  —  This  singular 
example  of  the  churrigueresque  applied 
to  marble  sculpturing  is  placed  at  the 
back  of  the  high  altar,  and  put  up  to 
render  transparent  the  inside   of  the 
'camarin,'  which  is  behind  the  high 
altar,  and  where  the  sacred  vases  and 
holy  of  holies  are  kept.     It  is  the  work 
of  Narciso  Tome,  1732,  who  may  be 
considered  the  inventor  of  these  frU 
cassies  of  marbles  2ls  they  have  been  called, 
and  which  are  seen  in  many  Spanish 
churches.  Marvellous  as  is  this  traspar- 
ente  in  execution — marvellous,  too,  in 
more  ways  than  one,  in  composition- 
it  must  be  held  to  be  a  dreadful  blot 
upon  this  almost  perfect  cathedral,  a 
i  true  product  of  the  1 8th  century.  Under 
the  high  chapel  is  a  subterraneous  chapel, 
del  Santo  Sepulcro,  so  called  from  re- 
presenting the  site  of  Christ's  burial. 
It  is  indifferent,  and  seldom  shown  to 
visitors.     The  altars  are  decorated  with 
sculptures  and  pictures.     Over  the  cen* 
tral  is  a  fine  Burial  of  Christ,  1514,  bj 
Diego  Copin,  'estofado,'  and  painted 
by  Juan  de  Borgona ;  the  pictures  on 
the  right  altar  are  by  Ricci,  or  Rizzi. 
The  respaldos  of  high  chapel  date  1490, 
and  were  put  up  by  Cardinal  Mendoza ; 
the  sculpturing  here,  medallions  from 
life  of  Christ,   etc.,   are  of  more  ad- 
vanced execution  and  better  style  on 
the  side  of  Gospel  than  on  the  earlier 
part  (88  years  before),  over  the  Epistle 
side. 

Choir, — This  part  of  the  church  la 
placed  under  the  fourth  and  fifth 
vaults,  and  measures  70  ft.  long  by  45 
ft.  wide.  It  is  walled  in  on  all  sides 
except  towards  the  \E.  or  high  chapel, 
from  which  it  is  railed  in  by  a  magnifi- 
cent reja,  a  worthy  pendant  to  that  of 
the  latter,  of  the  same  time  and  style, 
formerly  gilt  and  silvered,  until  the 
French  invasion,  when  it  was  divestnd 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL 


443 


■yf  the  gilding.  It  is  a  masterpiece  of 
Domingo  Cespedes,  a  great  Maestro 
rejero,  who  employed  Fernando  Bravo 
to  complete  it  (1548).  The  ornamen- 
tation is  very  rich  and  well  executed. 
The  pavement  of  the  choir  is  made  of 
large  white  marble  slabs,  divided  by 
broad  frames  of  dark  marble  inlaid. 
Over  aii  isolated  altar  is  a  stone  effigy 
of  the  Virgin,  called  Virgen  de  la 
Blanca,  probably  from  its  being 
morena  I  but  the  Spanish  peasant  likes 
the  '  Cristos'  and  '  Virgenes '  to  look  as 
national  as  possible  ;  and  it  would  not 
be  an  easy  task  to  persuade  them  that 
they  were  not  '  Castelianos  puros  y  por 
los  cuatro  costados,'  or  natives  of  the 
province  where  they  are  venerated. 
Thus,  the  dark-complexioned  Marias 
and  Christs  please  them  most : 

Moreno  ptntan  a  Cristo, 
Morena  a  la  Magdalena, 
Moreno  es  el  bien  que  adoro  , 
Viva  la  gente  Morena  ! 

Round  it  is  a  fine  reja  by  Villalpaudo 
and  Diaz  del  Corral,  his  brother-in-law, 
1551-64 ;  it  is  plateresque,  and  with  a 
profusion  of  details  and  figures. 

Lecterns. — The  larger  is  in  the  shape 
of  an  eagle  with  spread  wings,  dates 
1646,  and  is  the  work  of  Salinas.  The 
Gothic  pedestal  is  not  in  keeping  with 
the  upper  portion,  dates  1425,  and  was 
wrought  in  Germany.  The  latter  is 
very  superior  to  the  former.  There 
are  two  more  of  gilt  bronze,  dating 
1570,  the  work  of  the  Vergaras.  The 
relievos  and  statuettes  are  finely 
executed.  The  wooden  lecterns  date 
beginning  and  middle  of  the  16th 
century. 

Stalls.  —  Divided  into  upper  and 
lower  row,  each  of  a  distinct  period 
and  style.  The  lower  series  is  the 
work  of  the  celebrated  carver  (ental- 
lador)  Rodrigo,  who  completed  it  in 
1495.  This  magnificent  walnut  sil- 
leria  belongs   to   the    Florid   Gothic 


Considering  the  period,  the  execution 
is  very  good  j  but  it  is  especially  in- 
teresting as  representing  in  the  medal- 
lions the  sieges  and  capture  of  cities 
belonging  to  the  Moors,  by  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  displaying  valuable   ex- 
amples of  the  dress,  arms,  etc.,  of  that 
time.    The  arms,  friezes,  backs,  feet, 
etc.,  form  a  rare  museum  of  the  gro- 
tesque, in  which  the  mediaeval  carvers 
indulged.    The  upper  row  dates  from 
the  middle  of  the  16th  century,  and  is 
one  of  the  finest  and  most  perfect  sil- 
lerias  in  Europe,  the  work  of  Alonsc 
Berruguete,  his  son  Pedro,  and  Philip 
de  Borgona  (Vigarni),  who  undertook 
it  after  a  long  contest  with  other  car- 
vers, presided   over  by  the    chapter. 
Berruguete  made  the  thirty-five  stalls 
on  the  right  side  of  the  Archbishop's 
seat,   including  the  latter,   and   Bor- 
gona the  opposite  row,  in  all  seventy- 
one    stalls.     They    were    wrought    in 
rivalry  of  each  other,  and  finished  in 
1543  ;  and  as  Cardinal  Tavera's  inscrip- 
tion runs  :  *  Certaverunt  turn  artificum 
ingenia ;  certabunt  semper  spectatorum 
judicia. '  It  is  indeed  difficult  to  say  who 
deserves  the  palm.  To  name  Borgofiaand 
Berruguete  is  to  name  the  style  to  which 
it  belongs,  that  Italianised  plateresque 
so  admirably  understood  and  rendered 
by    Berruguete    especially,    in  works 
which  Benvenuto  Cellini  himself  would 
often  have  been  proud  to  sign.    The 
subjects  represent  saints,  prophets,  pa- 
triarchs, etc.,  in  mezzo-relievo ;    and 
the  recesses  wherein  the  walnut  stalls 
are  placed  are  of  alabaster,  and  divided 
by  beautiful  jasper    pillars  with  ala- 
baster basements  and  capitals.     Over 
the  niches  run  a  series  of  alabaster 
medallions,  with  mezzo-relievo  figures 
of  the  patriarchs,  progenitors  of  Jesus 
Christ.      The  differences  between  the 
two  rows  in  style  are  very  obvious  and 
interesting  to  study  for  the  history  of 
Spanish  sculpture.     In  that  of  Maese 


444 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


Kodrigo  we  have  all  the  qualities  and 
defects  of  the  Gothic  of  the  15th  cen- 
tury. Its  grotesque  Tedesco-Gothic 
style  reminds  one  of  Lucas  of  Holland 
and  his  school.  The  composition  is 
good  and  broad  ;  the  attitudes,  group- 
ing, and  expression  even,  are  well  dis- 
posed ;  the  failure  rests  especially  in 
the  execution.  The  German  school  is 
apparent,  moreover,  in  the  draperies, 
etc.  The  upper  row  displays  a  fa- 
miliar acquaintance  and  knowledge  of 
the  best  models  of  Greece  and  Rome. 
In  the  work  of  both  the  artists  we  see 
the  influence  of  the  Florentine  school 
Berruguete's  characteristics  are  good 
anatomy,  energy,  antique  cast  of  dra- 
peries, and  power  of  expression  ;  those 
of  his  rival  Borgofia  are  grace,  suavity, 
greater  freedom  of  handling,  richer  ima- 
gination, and  great  taste  in  the  choice 
of  ornamentation  ;  the  draperies,  so  to 
say,  being  less  conventional  and  mo- 
dernised. The  Archbishop's  stall  was 
also  the  work  of  Berruguete,  where  the 
group  of  the  Transfiguration,  all  of 
Cogolludo  alabaster,  is  most  Michael- 
Angelesque.  The  relievos  of  the  De- 
scent of  the  Virgin  upon  Earth  to  visit 
St  lldefonso  and  Purgatory,  are  by 
Gregorio  Vigarni,  the  brother  of  Bor- 
gofia, who  died  1543.  The  choral 
hooks  are  very  fine  and  early,  and  con- 
tain magnificent  specimens  of  illumina- 
tion of  the  end  of  the  15th  century,  by 
Buitrago,  Arroyo,  Juan  de  Salazar,  etc. 
Notice  the  seven  volumes  of  Cisneros's 
missal,  with  illuminations  by  A.  Vaz- 
quez and  Canderroa. 

The  organs  are  churrigueresque  in 
style  and  sound,  and  date  18th  cen- 
tury ;  that  on  the  side  of  the  Evangelio 
is  the  best. 

The  respaldos  or  exteriors  of  choir, 
are  also  very  fine  examples  of  the 
second  half  of  the  14th  century,  and 
form  three  walls,  richly  decorated  with 
fifty-two  precious  and  differently -colour- 


ed marble  columns  supportingarches  ad- 
mirably worked  ;  and  over  these  run  a 
series  of  fifty-six  alto-relievo  medal- 
lions representing  scenes  from  the  Old 
Testament  This  is  a  most  excellent 
example  of  middle-pointed  style.  The 
subjects,  though  full  of  the  naiveU  of 
the  period  and  many  vaguely  com- 
posed, are  admirable — and  we  point  this 
heretofore  neglected  portion  to  the 
study  of  artists.  The  date  is  1380; 
the  subjects  are  taken  from  the  Old 
Testament — a  rare  instance  with  Span- 
ish architects.  The  statues  of  In- 
nocence and  Sin,  at  the  sides  of  the 
oval,  containing  a  bust  of  a  Padre 
Eterrio  and  Evangelists,  are  of  ala- 
baster and  of  16th  century  ;  the  medal- 
lion, with  bust  by  Alonso  Berruguete, 
and  the  statues  by  the  elder  Nicolas 
de  Vergara.  The  four  classical  altars 
date  the  end  of  last  century,  and  are 
very  indifferent 

Chapels  round  the  Church.  Interior 
Portal  del  Pcrdon. — Begin  by  this  door, 
and  follow  to  the  right  This  interior 
part,  with  its  two  fine  folds  or  leaves 
full  of  bronze  relievi,  dates  1337.  The 
frame  of  it  and  statue?  of  prophets  at 
the  angles  are  also  Gothic.  Over  it 
are  some  fine  coloured  glass  windows 
and  a  glorious  rose,  30  ft  in  diameter. 
The  pictures  on  the  sides  are  indif- 
ferent Over  the  portal  de  la  Torre  is 
a  very  ancient  fresco  (sadly  defaced  by 
time,  neglect,  and  the  lightning  which 
destroyed  part  of  the  tower,  a  few 
years  ago),  representing  the  Resurrec- 
tion of  the  Lord.  Puerta  de  los  escri- 
banos. — The  escribano,  or  notary,  is 
quite  a  thing  of  Spain,  just  as  much  as 
the  cura  and  the  mfdico,  those  three 
professions  that  prosper  with  the  ruin 
of  souls,  bodies,  and  pockets. 

Primero  que  suha  al  delo, 
El  alma  de  un  escribano, 
Tintero,  papel  y  pluma, 
Han  de  bailar  el  fandango* 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


445 


The  guild  of  the  eaoribanos  del  numero 
of  Toledo  have  the  privilege  to  enter 
by  this  door  (hence  the  name)  once  a- 
year,  and  when  they  go  to  take  the 
oath  or  juramento  de  institute  before 
the  high  altar.  Over  this  portal  is 
an  inscription  recording  the  date  of 
the  taking  of  Granada,  expulsion  of 
the  Jews,  and  completion  of  this  ca- 
thedral 

Muzarabic  Chapel. — It  is  placed  un- 
der the  unfinished  towor,  and  was 
founded  by  Cardinal  Cisneros,  on  the 
site  of  the  former  Chapel  of  Corpus 
Christi,  and  built  by  the  Moorish  archi- 
tects, Farax  and  Mohammed,  after  de- 
signs of  Enrique  Egas  (1504).  The 
cupola  was  erected  about  1626,  by  J. 
M.  Theotocopuli,  the  Grecco's  son. 
The  entrance  reja  is  by  Juan  Frances, 
and  plateresque  (1524) ;  and  the  fresco 
on  facade,  by  Juan  de  Borgona,  dates 
1511,  but  is  indifferent.  The  effigy  of 
Our  Lady  of  La  Pied  ad  over  the  door  is 
also  indifferent.  The  only  altar  in  it  is 
of  bronze  and  marble,  a  present  of  Car- 
dinal Lorenzana.  The  mosaic  over  it 
represents  a  Virgin  and  Child,  and  was 
brought  from  Borne  by  the  same  cardin- 
al, and  cost  £4000.  The  square  chapel 
itself  is  small,  and  offers  nothing  re- 
markable, except  the  large  fresco  repre- 
senting different  episodes  of  the  conquest 
of  Oran  "by  Cardinal  Cisneros,  for 

Pluma,  purpura :  y  espada, 
Solo  en  Cisneros  se  halla. 

To  the  right,  the  cardinal  is  seen  em- 
barking at  Cartagena,  May  16,  1509, 
with  a  fleet  of  10  men-of-war  and  80 
galleys,  1100  horsemen,  and  9000  foot 
soldiers.  To  the  left,  the  picture  re- 
presents the  landing  at  Mers-el-Kebir, 

a  pirate's  nest  close  to  Oran ;  that  in 
the  centre  represents  the  assault  and 
capture  of  the  town.  Observe  the 
septuagenarian  cardinal  riding  on  a 
mule  and  preceded  by  the  Franciscan 
monk,    Fray    Fernando,    bearing   his 


standard.  *  The  fresco  was  painted  by 
the  contemporary  Juan  de  Borgona, 
1514.  Its  merit  is  indifferent,  and  the 
perspective  Chinese-like  ;  but  it  is  most 
curious  for  the  dresses,  arms,  evolutions 
of  troops,  etc. ;  and  it  would  be  interest- 
ing to  form  a  photographic  collection 
of  all  such-like  frescoes  in  Spain,  the 
battles  at  Escurial,  etc.  This  chapel 
was  founded  to  preserve  in  all  its  pu- 
rity the  forms  of  the  Gothic  ritual, 
called  Mostarabe  or  Muzarabe  (the  first 
is  oftener  met  in  Spanish  history,  the 
second  in  ballads),  because  used  by  the 
Muzarabes,Mixti  Arabes,  a  name  given 
to  the  Goths,  who  agreed  to  live  under 
the  Moslem  rule,  retaining  their  Chris- 
tian worship. 

The  oldest  ritual  in  Spain  was  the  Apostolic 
mass,  such  as,  according  to  St.  Gregory,  was 
followed  in  their  time,  and  consisted  of  the  Our 
Father,  and  the  words  pronounced  by  Jesus 
Christ  at  the  Lord's  Supper.  Santiago  (St. 
James  the  Elder)  added  a  few  prayers,  and  this 
was  the  primitive  form  of  mass,  which  was  pre- 
served till  the  reign  of  Sisenardus.  This  rite 
was  developed,  completed,  and  reformed  in 
Rome;  but  continued  the  same  in  Spain  and 
part  of  Gothic  Gaul ;  was  somewhat  adulterated 
by  the  contact  with  Arianism,  but  purified  by 
San  Isidore  (auricular  confession  had  been  sup- 
pressed), and  the  fourth  Council  of  Toledo  or- 
dered that  it  should  be  followed  everywhere. 
Queen  Costanza,  at  the  instigation  of  Bishop 
Bernard,  backed  by  Rome,  endeavoured  to 
suppress  it  and  introduce  the  Roman  or  Gre- 
gorian mass.  The  opposition  was  great  An 
appeal  to  the  Judicium  Del  turned  against  the 
desired  innovation.  The  Pope  was  consulted , 
a  council  was  assembled  at  Burgos,  and  decided 
for  the  Rito  Galico  or  Gregorian ;  but  Toledo 
appealed  again  to  the  judgment  of  God,  and 
now  the  books  themselves  were  the  champions. 

*  When  the  exulting  soldiers,  whose  excesses 
at  the  sack  of  Oran  were  fiendish,  saluted  him 
as  the  conqueror,  he  meekly  answered,  like  the 
Moslem  Prince  Ibnu-l-Ahmaer  after  the  capture 
of  Seville,  and  the  Black  Prince  after  the  vic- 
tory of  Najera :  '  Non  nobis,  non  nobis,  sed,' 
etc.;  but  the  truth  is  that  the  real  conquerors 
were  Pedro  Navarro,  and  the  terror  that  pos« 
sessed  the  Moors  when  they  perceived  that  the 
first  head  they  cut  had  only  one  eye  1 


446 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


A  pile  wis  built  up  in  the  Zocodover,  the  two 
missals  placed  side  by  side,  and  fire  set  to  the 
wood.  The  test  of  fire  was  favourable  to  the 
Toledan  ritual,  which  remained  unconsumed, 
whilst  the  Roman  missal  was  reduced  to  ashes. 
This  decision  was  equally  disregarded  by  the 
defeated ;  but '  il  est  avec  le  del'  (and  even  die 
pope)  '  des  accommodements ;'  and  to  satisfy  all 
parties  both  rituals  were  ingeniously  amalga- 
mated under  the  name  of '  Missale  xnixtum  se- 
cundum consuetudinem  alms  Ecclesue  Tole- 
tanae.'  However,  the  constant  influence  of 
Rome  at  length  prevailed,  especially  through 
political  motives ;  and  on  Nov.  3,  1574,  the 
cathedral  services  began  to  follow  the  example 
set  by  other  churches  of  Spain, — the  Muzarabes 
only  retaining  six  churches,  viz.,  St.  Eulalia, 
St  Sebastian,  St.  Marcos,  St.  Lucas,  St  Justa, 
St  Torcato,  which  twenty-five  years  ago  were 
still  exclusively  used  for  that  rite;  the  last 
Concordat  has  sanctioned  the  continuance  of  it 
only  in  Cisneros'  chapel,  where  mass  is  said 
every  day  about  0.15  a.m.,  but  it  is  indifferently 
attended,  and  has  become  a  mere  liturgic  curi- 
osity, which  must  sooner  or  later  disappear. 
The  ritual  is  very  simple  and  imposing.  Auri- 
cular confession  is  omitted ;  the  credo  is  said  at 
the  elevation,  the  wafer  is  divided  into  nine 
parts,  representing  the  Incarnation,  Epiphany, 
Nativity,  Circumcision,  Passion,  Death,  Resur- 
rection, Ascension,  and  the  Eternal  Kingdom. 
Seven  of  these  portions  are  placed  to  form  a 
cross  (see  for  books  of  reference,  end  of  Toledo). 
The  prayers  and  collects  teem  with  fervour  and 
true  eloquence,  and  many  of  them  have  been 
introduced  in  the  Book  of  Common  Prayer. 
Masses  are  said  here  at  the  request  of  visitors 
and  for  a  trifle.  The  letters  of  Pope  Gregory 
VII.,  that  may  be  found  in  Hardouin's  '  Re- 
ceuil  des  Conciles,  etc.,  tome  vi.  pt  L,  are  most 
curious  to  consult  upon  this  subject. 

Capilla  de  la  Epifania. — Gothic,  of 
15th  century,  rebuilt  in  the  16th.  A 
Gothic  altar,  with  early  pictures  of 
little  merit,  and  two  painted  marble 
statues. 

Capilla  de  la  Conception. — Of  the 
indifferent  Gothic,  beginning  of  16th 
century.  A  retablo  of  the  early  German 
school.  Over  the  Puerta  Liana  are 
four  chiaroscuro  pictures  by  Comontes, 
middle  of  16th  century,  very  dark  and 
sombre,  said  to  represent  the  four 
Sybils. 

,  Capilla  San  Martin. — Gothic,  very 
florid,  founded  beginning  of  the  16th 


century.  A  fine  reja  by  Juan  Francis. 
The  retablo  is  plateresque ;  the  pictures 
early  but  inferior ;  most  of  them  ascribed 
to  Francisco  de  Amberes  (Antwerp), 
and  the  St  Martin  to  Andrea,  a  Floren- 
tine painter. 

Capilla  de  San  Eugcnio. — Founded 
about  beginning  of  13th  century ;  re- 
paired and  mostly  rebuilt  beginning  of 
16th  century.  A  fine  iron  reja,  and 
plateresque  retablo  designed  by  Enrique 
de  Egas,  1500,  and  Maese  ftodrigo.  The 
San  Eugenio  in  centre  is  by  Diego  Copin, 
1517,  on  wood  ;  and  the  series  of  pic- 
tures representing  the  Childhood  and 
Death  of  Christ  are  by  Juan  de  Bor- 
gofia,  1516.  On  the  left  is  a  fine  plater- 
esque tomb  with  an  alabaster  lying  effigy 
of  Bishop  Castillo,  ob.  1521.  Opposite 
is  a  tomb  of  exquisite  style,  in  imitation 
of  the  Saracenic  art  of  13th  century, 
with  an  Arabic  inscription.  It  is  the 
tomb  of  the  Toledan  alguazil  Fenian 
Gudiel,  ob.  1278.  In  his  epitaph  he  is 
said  to  have  been — 'muy  onrrado  ca- 
vallero,'  and  *muy  fazedor  de  algo. 
Sirvio  bien  a  Jesuchristo,  e  a  Sancta 
Maria,  e  al  Key,  e  a  Toledo,  de  nocte  e 
de  dia. ' 

On  passing  this  chapel,  on  the  wall 
is  the  usual  painting  of  San  Cristobal, 
50  ft.  high,  and  therefore  justly  called 
Cristobalon  ;  this  Christus  ferens  was 
repainted  1636,  by  G.  de  Rueda.  Op- 
posite to  it  is  a  valuable  picture  of 
Luis  Tristan  representing  St.  Francis  de 
Paula. 

The  interior  portal  de  los  Leone*  is 
exquisite,  and  Gotho-plateresque.  Ob- 
serve the  fine  Gothic  tombs  with  relievi 
The  leaves  of  the  doors,  as  before  stated, 
are  elaborately  worked,  and  gems  of  the 
kind;  they  date  16th  century.  Over 
the  portal  is  a  medallion  representing 
in  mezzo-relievo,  the  genealogical  tree 
of  the  Virgin  Mary,  among  the  branches 
of  which  we  see  the  Patriarchs,  for* 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


447 


fathers  of  the  Virgin,  who  crown  the 
work,  holding  the  Child.  Above  this, 
and  in  the  centre  of  a  storey  or  cuerpo  of 
plateresque  architecture,  with  elegant 
balustraded  pillars  and  good  statues  of 
David  and  another  prophet,  is  a  fine 
marble  medallion  of  G.  de  Borgona, 
representing  the  Coronation  of  the  Vir- 
gin. The  other  sculpture  here  is  full 
of  good  ornamentation  and  details,  by 
Copin,  Aleas,  Salmeron,  and  others. 
The  rose-window  over  this  is  20  ft.  in 
diameter,  and  with  glorious  colours. 

Capilla  de  Sta.  Lucia  (lux,  whence 
she  is  the  Patron  Saint  of  occulists,  and 
cures  diseases  of  the  sight).  On  the 
sides  of  the  entrance  are  two  pictures,  a 
St.  John,  ascribed  to  Ribera  by  some, 
and  to  Caravaggio  by  other  inteligmtes; 
and  to  the  right,  San  Bartolome,  by 
Maella,  1786,  one  among  the  least  bad 
of  this  indifferent  artist.  The  medal* 
lions  are  modern,  and  as  to  the  Mar- 
riage of  the  Virgin — those  who  see  it 
need  not  be  assured  that  it  is  erroneously 
ascribed  to  el  dlebre  Wandique.  This 
small  Gothic  chapel  is  interesting,  as 
being  among  the  earliest  built.  It  was 
founded  by  Archbishop  Rodrigode  Rada, 
and  contains  sepulchral  inscriptions  of 
the  13th  century. 

Capilla  de  Keyes  Viejos. — Founded  in 
1290  by  Archbishop  Palomeque,  under 
the  name  of  Capilla  del  EspirUu  Santo, 
and  called  so  to  distinguish  it  from  that 
of  Los  Reyes  Nuevos.  It  took  this 
name  when  the  Chapel  de  Santa  Cruz 
was  removed  to  it.  The  iron  reja, 
painted  red  and  gilt,  is  a  masterpiece  of 
Cespedes,  1529,  and  of  the  plateresque 
style.  The  retablos  of  the  altars  are 
plateresque,  1539,  by  Francisco  Comon- 
tes.  Observe  very  particularly  the  pic- 
tures here,  interesting  as  data  for  the 
history  of  oil  painting,  as  they  date 
1418  !  They  are  all  by  the  Toledan, 
Juan  Alfon.  Over  the  high  altar  are 
The  Coming  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  Resur- 


rection of  the  Lord,  the  Lord  Appearing 
to  the  Virgin,  His  Apparition  to  the 
Magdalen,  Nativity,  Baptism,  Trans- 
figuration, Ascension,  etc.  The  small 
walnut  stalls  that  compose  the  small 
choir,  used  exclusively  by  theCapellanes 
Reales,  are  plain  and  good. 

Capilla  de  la  Trinidad. — A  fine  pla- 
teresque railing. 

Capilla  de  San  Udefoneo— One  of 
the  earliest,  founded  by  Archbishop 
Rodrigo.  This  very  elegant  octagon 
Gothic  chapel,  considerably  beautified 
and  somewhat  modified  towards  the 
end  of  the  14th  century  by  Cardinal 
Albornoz,  is  dedicated  to  San  Ildefonso, 
the  great  lion  with  Toledan  hagiologists, 
and  very  popular  with  Spanish  painters, 
legend-mongers,  and  sacristanes. 

This  saint  was  born  at  Toledo,  in  690,  and 
was  celebrated  as  an  eloquent  controversialist 
and  advocate  of  the  dogma  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception.  The  Virgin,  by  way  of  gratitude, 
came  down  from  heaven,  and  attended  at  matins 
in  the  cathedral,  sitting  in  St  Ildefonso's  seat. 
At  another  time  she  alighted  in  the  cathedral, 
and  placed  on  the  same  saint's  shoulders  the 
easulia  (cassock)  which  is  (secUce)  actually  kept 
in  the  famous  area  at  Oviedo.  This  saint,  who 
became  Primate  of  Toledo,  died  in  617.  His 
grand  festival  takes  place  here  on  January  22. 

The  verjas  at  the  entrance  are  by 
Maese  Paulo.  The  altar  is  modern,  and 
a  substitute  for  the  Gothic  flamboyant 
one  removed  about  1783.  It  was  de- 
signed by  the  R.A's  of  the  end  of  the 
last  century,  headed  by  Ventura  Rodri- 
guez. Here  is  buried  the  Archbishop 
Cardinal  Albornoz,  who  died  1364,  in 
Italy,  and  for  the  conveyance  of  whose 
body  in  an  economical  way  Pope  Urban 
V.  granted  plenary  indulgences  to  all 
those  who  would  carry  it  any  distance 
on  their  shoulders.  Several  other  mem- 
bers of  that  puissant  clerical  family  are 
buried  here,  and  the  plateresque  tom> 
of  his  nephew,  the  Bishop  of  Avila 
(ob.  1514),  is  quite  remarkable,  and  a 


448 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL — CHAPELS. 


gem  of  its  kind.  Observe  the  bassi- 
relievi  niches,  medallions,  etc.,  picked 
out  in  white  and  gold  (estofado)  by  one 
Tegada,  1545.  There  is  another  fine 
Gothic  tomb  of  Don  Iliigo  de  Mendoza, 
viceroy  of  Sardinia,  who  died  at  the 
siege  of  Granada  in  1491.  Observe  the 
details  of  armoury  and  dress.  It  is,  on 
the  whole,  a  striking  work.  Observe 
the  somewhat  novel  treatment  of  the 
vaulting  ribs,  fringed  with  cusps  and 
large  traceried  windows. 

Oapilla  de  Santiago,  a  pendant  to 
former. — One  of  the  finest,  and  of 
the  rich  Gothic  of  the  15th  century 
(1435).  It  is  a  gem  of  taste  and 
elegance.  The  chapel  is  in  the  form 
of  an  octagon,  and  all  of  stone,  both 
exterior  and  interior.  The  three  doors, 
roofs,  walls,  pillars,  etc.,  are  most 
elaborately  decorated  with  rich  Gothic 
filigree  Saracenic  work.  It  was  founded 
for  his  family  vault  by  Don  Alvaro 
de  Luna,  the  constable  of  Castile, 
during  his  greater  privama  (favourit- 
ism). See  his  arms,  a  white  moon 
(lima).  The  outward  appearance  is 
that  of  a  castle,  as  it  is  finished  with  a 
battlement  and  overhanging  turrets  at 
the  angles.  The  Gothic  altar  opposite 
the  entrance  dates  1498,  and  is  the 
work  of  Gumiel  and  others.  The 
retablo  is  divided  into  fifteen  compart- 
ments ;  in  the  centre  is  an  equestrian 
statue  of  Santiago.  Observe,  among 
other  early  pictures  (none  of  great 
value),  the  portraits  of  Don  Alvaro  in 
his  dress  of  Grand  Master  of  the  Order 
of  Santiago,  and  his  daughter  Dona 
Maria.  Over  the  retablo  is  a  colossal 
mezzo-relievo  Santiago  on  horseback, 
slaying  infidels,  as  became  the  patron 
saint  of  medieval  Spain.  The  other 
two  altars  are  indifferent  and  modern. 
The  tombs  are  very  fine,  and  deserve 
close  inspection.  In  the  centre  rise 
two    white    marble    mausoleums    of 


Gothic  style  and  full  of  sculpturing, 
with  recumbent  effigies.  In  that  to 
the  right  lies  the  founder,  Don  Alvaro 
de  Luna ;  his  wife,  Dona  Juana,  is 
buried  in  that  to  the  left  (ob.  1453). 
At  the  corners  are  statues  of  knights 
of  Santiago,  kneeling  in  prayer.  At  the 
founder's  feet  is  a  helmet  crowned  with 
ivy  and  laurel,  and  close  by  a  kneel- 
ing page,  perhaps  the  very  one  who, 
JUl  hasta  en  la  muerte,  accompanied 
the  constable  to  the  scaffold  at  Valla- 
dolid,  where  he  was  executed,  1451. 
Don  Alvaro  lies  in  armour,  which  is 
partly  concealed  by  his  robes  of  the 
order,  his  hands  crossed  devoutly  over 
his  heart.  The  face  looks  older  and 
more  austere  than  he  is  said  to  have 
been  when  he  died.  There  is  a  mixed 
expression  of  sadness  and  resignation 
on  his  face.  Here  he  lies,  now  hut  a 
mere  object  of  listless  curiosity  from 
the  passing  traveller,  who  asks  his 
name,  and,  knowing  it,  knows  but 
little  more  about  that  man  who  was, 
said  Pius  II.,  'of  a  very  lofty  mind, 
as  great  in  war  as  he  was  in  peace, 
and  whose  soul  breathed  none  but 
noble  .thoughts.'  He  certainly  was, 
like  most  favourites,  *  a  man  of  an 
unbounded  stomach.'  But  if  he  was 
ambitious,  he  grievously  answered  for 
this  crime  ;  for  this  man,  who  was 
almost  a  king,  whose  power  and  riches 
were  unlimited,  and  who  inspired  so 
much  love  and  so  much  hatred,  died 
like  a  murderer,  and  was  buried  by 
charity.  The  first  mausoleum  he  had 
erected  to  himself  was  very  fine,  and 
the  recumbent  effigy  so  constructed 
that,  when  mass  was  said,  the  automa- 
ton, clad  in  armour,  used  to  rise 
slowly,  and  remain  kneeling  until  the 
service  was  ended,  when  it  would 
resume  its  former  posture.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  wilfully  destroyed  by  his 
old  enemy,  Don  Henrique  of  Aragon, 
when  he  entered  Toledo ;  others  assert 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


449 


that  Queen  Isabella  had  it  removed,  as 
she  considered  it,  very  justly,  profane 
and  irreverent.  At  the  corners  of  his 
wife's  mausoleum  stand  four  Francis- 
can monks.  The  ill-fated  and  gentle 
Dona  Juana,  daughter  of  Conde  de 
Benavente,  is  dressed  most  plainly, 
with  her  lady-in-waiting,  some  great 
friend,  no  doubt,  who  is  at  her  feet 
reading  prayers  over  her  good  mistress 
(ob.  1488).  They  are  both  the  work 
of  Pablo  Ortiz,  and  were  erected  by 
their  daughter,  Dona  Maria.  Observe 
also  the  fine  Gothic  tombs  of  Arch- 
bishop Cerezuela,  Don  Alvaro's  uncle 
(ob.  1442),  and  that  of  Archbishop 
Don  Pedro  de  Luna,  another  uncle  of 
his  (ob.  1414),  both  remarkable  for  the 
details  of  dress  and  modelling.  That 
on  the  side  of  la  Epistola  is  of  a  Luna, 
also  called  Conde  de  Santistiban,  a  fine 
statue,  with  rich  ancient  armour.  Here 
is  also  interred  the  Archbishop  of  To- 
ledo, who  died  in  1857. 

Capilla  de  Reyes  Nuevos. — The  Royal 
Chapel,  founded  for  the  interment  of 
the  princes  of  the  bastard  line  that 
began,  after  Don  Pedro's  murder  at 
Montiel,  with  his  brother,  and  lasted 
for  five  generations.  It  was  founded 
for  his  and  their  burial  by  Henrique  II. 
'  Before  that  spot,'  says  he  in  his  will, 
dated  Burgos,  1374,  '  where  the  Virgin 
St.  Mary  alighted  and  stood  when  she 
presented  the  cassock  (or  chasuble)  to 
San  Alfonso  (Ildefonso),  in  whom  (the 
Virgin)  we  have  great  faith  and  con- 
fidence, because  she  helped  us  out  of 
many  difficulties  and  dangers  when  we 
stood  in  need  of  aid.'  But,  as  it  was 
ill  placed,  and  in  the  way  of  cloister 
processions,  etc.,  it  was  removed  in  the 
16th  century  to  its  present  site,  when 
this  chapel  was  built  up.  Alfonso  de 
Covarrubias  was  the  architect  named 
by  Archbishop  Cardinal  Tavera,  by 
whom  all  the  expenses  were  defrayed. 
It  is  a  gem  of  the  plateresque,  full  of 

2 


elegance  and  taste.  Observe  the  beauti- 
ful entrance-arch,  with  statues  of  kings- 
at-arms,  holding  the  escutcheons  of 
Castile  and  Leon,  and  an  exquisite 
bronze-gilt  reja  ty  C^spedes.  Hence, 
through  a  small  dark  ante-chapel,  we 
enter  the  capilla  itself,  consisting  of 
one  nave,  groined  with  a  three-sided 
vault,  formed  by  two  richly-decorated 
arches.  The  joints  of  the  stones  are 
picked  out  with  gold  and  blue  fillets. 
The  five  altars  are  classical,  and  de- 
signed by  V.  Rodriguez,  1777 — a  sad 
substitution  for  the  former  ones  of  the 
16th  century.  The  painting  is  all  by 
the  poor  Maella.  Observe  the  stand- 
ard, kept  in  a  leathern  purse,  said  to 
have  been  taken  at  the  battle  of  Salado, 
1340,  and  a  complete  suit  of  armour, 
ascribed  by  some  to  the  Moorish  prince 
Abu  Malek.  Under  rich  gold  niches, 
admirably  decorated,  are  the  tombs, 
with  jacent  effigies,  of  Henrique  II. 
(ob.  1378)  and  his  queen  Doila  Juana 
(obl381),  both  on  the  side  of  the  Evan- 
gelic On  that  of  the  Epistola  lie 
Henrique  III.  (ob.  1407)  and  his  queen 
Dona  Catalina  (ob.  1418),  also  John  of 
Gaunt's  daughter,  Dona  Catalina  de 
Alencastre  (Lancaster).  The  kneeling 
statue  of  Juan  II.  is  by  Juan  de 
Borgona,  and  good.  Observe,  more- 
over, the  plateresque  niches,  with  the 
tombs  of  Juan  II.  and  Dona  Leonor 
(ob.  1390  and  1382),  with  statues  by 
Contreras.  The  effigies  of  Henrique 
II.  and  Dona  Juana  were  the  work  of 
artists  their  contemporaries,  and  there- 
fore likenesses  of  the  fratricidal  Tras- 
tamara.     The  name  of  the  sculptor 

is  doubtful.  The  usurper  holds  the 
sceptre  with  a  firm  and  anxious  grasp, 
as  if,  even  after  death,  he  was  not  sure 
it  would  not  be  wrested  from  him,  as 
he  wrested  it  from  Don  Pedro. 

Capilla  del  Sagrario. — The  image  of 
the  Virgin,  which  is  here  held  in  great 
veneration,  is  certainly  very  early,  as 

G 


450 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


there  is  no  doubt  it  was  already  in 
the  former  cathedral,  and  is  said  to 
have  been  brought  by  San  Eugenius, 
and  to  be  one  of  the  many  unique  and 
authentic  portraits  of  the  Virgin.  The 
effigy  is  of  wood,  darkened  by  time ; 
but  it  is  all  concealed,  save  the  face 
and  hands,  under  a  mass  of  silver  and 
tawdry  mantos,  and  the  rich  throne 
upon  which  she  is  seated  is  also  scarcely 
seen. 

Where  this  portion  of  the  cathedral 
(including  the  ochavo,  offices,  sacristy, 
and  tesoro)   now  stands,  there  stood 
formerly  an  hospital,  and  several  private 
houses,  which  were  all  pulled  down  by 
Archbishop  Quiroga,  at  the  end  of  the 
16th  century,  and  the  present  buildings 
w«re  designed  and  executed,  1592,  by 
Nicolas  de  Vergara,  the  younger.     It 
was  completed  in  1616  by  Archbishop 
Sandoval  y  Rojas,  who  employed  Mone- 
gro  and  others  as  architects.    This  edi- 
fice is  all  of  stone,  of  classical  style, 
and  divided  into  three  large  portions — 
viz.   1st,    comprising  the    Chapel    of 
Santa  Marina,  sagrario,  ochavo,  and  its 
vestibule ;  2d,  ante-sacristy,  sacristy, 
vestry-room,  where  the  custodia  is  kept; 
3d,   patio,   minor    cloisters,    treasure- 
house,  etc     These  latter  we  shall  de- 
scribe   presently.      Capilla    de    Sta. 
Marina, — Just  before  the  entrance,  and 
on  the  pavement,  observe  a  plain  large 
copper  slab,  with  the  laconic  inscription 
in  gilt  letters :  ' Hie  jacet  pulvis,  cinis, 
nullus'  ('here  lies  dust,  ashes,  nought'). 
This  is  the  tomb  of  the  great  Cardinal 
Archbishop  Don  Luis  Fernandez   de 
Portocarrero  (ob.  1709),  a  kingmaker, 
who  contributed  chiefly  to  the  success 
of  the  French  party  in  the  war  of  suc- 
cession ;  and  thus  it  is  that,  curiously 
enough,  the  Queen  Isabella  Segunda 
owed  her  crown  to  an  ancestor  of  Eu- 
genia Montijo  de  Teba,  Guzman  y  Por- 
tocarrero.    The  entrance  is  all  of  pre- 
cious marbles  (1610).     The  frescoes  of 


this  ante-capilla  are  by  Carducho  and 
Caxes.    There  are  two  pillars  of  rich 
jaspers,  and  the  floor  is  of  precious 
marbles.     The  portrait  of  Cardinal  San- 
doval and  a  Crucifixion  are  by  Lais 
Tristan.     The  Chapel  of  the  Sagrario 
is  36  feet  square  in  extent ;  it  is  most 
richly  and  gaudily  ornamented  with 
marbles,  gilt  bronzes,  etc.     The  altar, 
all    of   silver    gilt,   cost    upwards   of 
£11,000.     Here  are  the  tombs  of  the 
Sandovals.    The  frescoes  are  by  the 
pintores  decamara,  Carducho  and  Caxes. 

North  Side  of  Transept. — The  interior 
portal  of  the  clock  or  feria.  The  inte- 
rior door  is  divided  into  two  folds, 
which,  as  already  stated,  are  elaborately 
worked  by  the  Madrilenian  moderns, 
Zurreno  (1713),  who  carved  that  on 
the  left,  and  Dominguez  (1715),  who 
made  the  right  one,  both  inferior  to 
those  of  the  Puerta  de  los  Leones. 
Over  the  door  are  statues  of  the  Virgin 
praying  and  Archbishop  Gabriel,  by 
Nicolas  de  Vergara  the  elder,  and  T.  B. 
Vazquez  (16th  century).  On  the  key- 
stone of  the  arch  there  is  a  circular 
medallion  with  a  mezzo-relievo  com- 
position of  Gregorio  de  Borgofia,  1542, 
representing  the  apparition  of  St.  Leo- 
cadia  to  St.  lldefonso.  The  medallions 
at  the  sides  are  by  Vazquez.  At  the 
sides  of  the  clock  are  chiaroscuro  figures 
by  Comontes.  Two  automatons,  by 
Copin  de  Holanda,  strike  the  hours. 
Over  the  door  is  a  fine  rose-window, 
20  ft  in  diameter.  The  other  paint- 
ings are  indifferent,  and  of  the  17th 
century. 

Capilla  de  San  Pedro. — Founded  in 
the  beginning  of  the  15th  century  by 
Cardinal  Rojas.  It  is  of  the  Gothic 
florid,  and  was  considerably  repaired 
and  embellished  by  Cardinal  Loren- 
zana,  who  unfortunately  had,  to  eehar 
mano,  avail  himself  of  the  poor  Bayeu 
as  the  painter.  The  founder's  tomb  i* 
here,  with  a  good  jacent  statue  of  the 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


451 


15th  century  (ob.  1422).  The  altars 
are  classical,  and  gaudily  decorated. 
The  Chapel  of  La  Pila  Bautismal  has 
an  elegant  verja  by  C&pedes  (1524), 
with  plateresqne  medallions.  On  the 
walls  are  two  early  retablos  by  Fran- 
cisco de  Amberes  (1507). 

The  Altar  of  La  Antigua  has  little  to 
call  our  attention,  save  the  image  of 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  before  which  the 
banners  of  the  Spanish  king's  troops 
used  to  be  blessed  on  the  eve  of  any 
expedition  against  the  Moors.  The 
Chapel  of  El  Cristo  de  las  Cucharas  is 
Gothic,  and  founded  in  the  15th  cen- 
tury by  the  wife  of  the  Mariscal  de  Lo- 
pez de  Padilla.  See  their  arms,  broad 
huge  cucharas  called  padillas,  paddles, 
patonillas — punning  canting  arms  be- 
ing as  much  the  fashion  in  Spain  (see 
lunas,  zapatas)  as  in  the  rest  of  medi- 
aeval Europe. 

Capilla  de  la  Torre,  ordelos  Canonigos. 
— Founded  by  Cardinal  Tavera,  with  a 
fine  plateresque  facade  by  Aleas,  Gre- 
gorio  de  Borgona,  and  others.  The 
chapel  was  designed  by  Antonio  de  Co- 
varrubias  (ob.  1538).  The  marble,  with 
black  and  gold  fillets,  stalactite  arte- 
sonado  roof,  is  in  doubtful  taste.  The 
three  altars  are  all  plateresque.  Ob- 
serve a  fine  crucifix  carved  by  Vergara 
el  Viejo,  a  Virgin  and  St.  John,  chiaro- 
scuro paintings  by  Comontes,  etc. 

Capilla  de  la  Virgen  de  Fiedra.— 
This  is  believed  to  be  the  site  of  the 
high  altar  of  the  former  cathedral,  and 
the  very  spot  where  the  Virgin  alighted, 
on  her  visit  to  San  Ildefonso,  when,  on 
passing  by  her  statue  (now  at  the 
Sagrario  Chapel),  she  embraced  it 
affectionately,  and  then  proceeded  to 
invest  her  theological  champion  with 
the  casulla,  as  if  it  were  a  knight's 
man  to.*    A  small  chapel  was  raised  on 

*  See  Calderon's  comedy  of  '  La  Virgen  del 
Sagrario  hallada,  perdida  y  recobrada,'  in  which 
the  Virgin,  on  making  a  present  of  the  casulla, 


the  spot,  which  was  enlarged  and  beau- 
tified by  Archbishop  Fonseca,  and  railed 
in  by  the  present  elegant  reja  in  1610, 
by  Cardinal  Sandoval  y  Hojas.  Its 
shape  is  pyramidal,  all  of  marble,  picked 
out  with  gold,  and  about  10  ft.  square. 
At  the  foot  of  the  altar  is  interred  Car- 
dinal Moscoso  of  Sandoval  (ob.  1665). 
The  altar  and  retablo  are  of  alabaster 
and  gilt  bronzes.  The  sculpturing  of 
the  retablo  is  by  the  two  Borgoiias, 
Covarrubias  and  Almonacid.  The  cen- 
tral medallion  represents  the  Descent 
of  Our  Lady,  and  dates  1583.  On 
the  side  of  the  Epistola  is  enclosed, 
within  red  jasper,  the  stone  on  which 
the  Virgin  alighted,  which  is  kissed  and 
touched,  and  thus  (etymologically 
speaking)  really  adored  by  all  devotos 
de  Maria  Santisima. 

Sacristy. — Built,  as  before  stated 
(Capilla  del  Sagrario),  by  Archbishop 
Rojas,  at  beginning  of  17th  century. 
The  large  room,  called  ante-sacristia,  is 
42  ft.  long  by  20  ft.  wide,  and  35  ft. 
high.  The  tombs  of  the  first  arch- 
bishops of  Toledo  that  were  elected  after 
the  reconquista,  are  indifferent ;  the 
pictures  are  mostly  by  Caj£s,  Carducho, 
and  Ricci ;  a  Flight  into  Egypt,  by 
Jordan.  Here  we  enter  a  glorious  sa- 
loon, 100  ft.  long  by  38  ft.  wide  and 
50  ft.  high,  with  a  pavement  of  white, 
black,  and  red  marbles,  and  the  roof 
finely,  though,  as  usual,  too  hastily, 
painted,  by  Giordano,  truly  Luca  Fa 
Presto.  There  is  a  good  painting  by 
Grecco,  representing  Christ  stripped  of 
his  garments,  one  of  the  Roman  sol- 
diers being  the  painter's  own  portrait. 
There  are  also  the  Taking  of  Christ,  and 
Mount  Olivet,  by  Goya ;  the  Apparition 
of  Sta.  Leocadia  to  San  Ildefonso  ;  Na 

assures  the  Saint  that  the  sun  itself  is  dark  com- 
pared to  this  glittering  chasuble.  'Take  it, 
then/  she  says,  '  and  try  to  look  well  in  it  on 
my  festival.  For  as  thou  hast  proclaimed  me 
tu  dama,  I  wish  you  to  dress  to  my  fancy.' 


452 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


tivity  and  Adoration  of  Kings,  by  Pedio 
Orrente ;  the  Deluge,  by  one  of  the 
Bassanos ;  St  Augustin,  etc  etc.,  by 
Juan  de  Pantoja.  The  statue  of  the 
Cardinal  Borbon,  Archbishop  of  Toledo 
(ob.  1823),  is  by  Salvatierra,  and  indif- 
ferent Observe  also  an  Apostolado  by 
el  Grecco.  The  pictures  on  the  roof 
represent  the  Descent  of  the  Virgin 
Mary,  and  placing  of  the  chasuble  on 
San  Ildefonso.  The  painter's  portrait 
is  next  the  window  to  left  of  altar. 

Vestuario. — The  roof  of  this  square 
room  was  painted  by  Claudio  Coello 
y  Donoso,  in  1671.  Pictures. — Baptism 
of  Christ,  by  Giordano  ;  a  fine  copy  of 
Raphael's  Holy  Family  and  St  John  ; 
a  Crucifixion,  by  Titian  (?) ;  a  portrait 
of  Pope  Clement  VII.,  by  Van  Dyck ; 
a  Circumcision  of  Our  Lord,  by  Fran- 
cesco Bassano;  a  Nativity,  by  his  father, 
Jacob  Bassano  ;  a  Samaritan,  ascribed 
toMengs;  a  Virgin  and  Child,  ascribed  to 
Rubens;  Jesus'  Burial,  by  Juan  Bellini; 
San  Carlos  Borromeo  and  St  Philip 
Neri,  by  Guido  Reni ;  David  playing 
on  the  Harp,  by  Guercino ;  a  St 
Francis  of  el  Grecco's.  Observe  six 
finely-executed  flower-pieces,  by  Mario 
dei  Fiori ;  statue  of  St  Francis  by  Ao. 
Cano.  Vestments. — The  richly -em- 
broidered clerical  vestments  are  worth 
a  visit  Examine  especially  Cisneros' 
ternos,  and  others  embroidered  by  tho 
great  bordadores,  Buitrago,  Talavera, 
Marcos  de  Covarrubias,  etc  Admirers 
of  embroidery  may  inquire  for  the 
tapestries,  frontals  of  high  altar,  etc 
In  the  Cwvrto  de  la  Custodia  is  kept 
this  glorious  masterpiece  of  Enrique  de 
Arfe,  who  made  it  for  Archbishop  Cis- 
neros in  1524.  It  belongs  to  the  florid 
Gothic,  is  9  feet  high  of  a  pyramidal 
shape,  and  profusely  decorated  with 
260  statuettes.  It  is  all  silver  gilt,  and 
weighs  fifteen  arrobas.  The  central 
custodia,  placed  within  to  keep  the 
host,  was  made  with  the  gold  brought 


first  by  Columbus,  and  ordered  to  be 
made  by  Queen  Isabella. 

The  wardrobe  of  the  Virgen  del  Sa- 
grario  is  well  worth  seeing,  for  its  wealth 
is  almost  unrivalled  by  the  toilettes  of 
the  most  extravagant  queens  in  the 
world.  Her  manto  for  gala  days  is  all 
silver  and  gold,  with  78,000  pearls  em- 
broidered on  it,  and  diamonds,  rubies, 
and  countless  emeralds.  Her  other 
more  ordinary  robes  are  equally  splen- 
did, of  different  colours  and  embroidery. 
All  these  are  presents  of  kings  and 
queens,  popes,  archbishops,  and  private 
devotos  de  la  Virgen,  ladies  especially. 
Her  imperial  crown  dates  16th  century, 
and  cost  upwards  of  £5000,  not  includ- 
ing the  stones.  The  bracelets,  made  by 
Julian  Honrado,  a  celebrated  silversmith 
of  end  of  16th  century,  are  also  fine  and 
valuable,  about  £2000 ;  the  ex-Queen 
Isabella  has  added  countless  gifts  of 
bracelets  and  diamond  pins,  and  was  her 
mistress  of  the  robes,  camarera  magor.* 

The  jewels  of  the  cathedral,  justly 
called  la  Rica,  are  very  valuable ;  though 
many  disappeared  during  the  French 

*  The  Virgin  always  wears  in  Spain  the  royal 
crown,  and  ranks  as  a  queen.  She  has  got  a 
household  composed  of  the  greatest  ladies  of  the 
kingdom,  who  take  care  of  her  wardrobe,  altars, 
chapels,  processions,  etc.  ;  she  has  also  landed 
estates,  less  now  than  before,  but  still  consider- 
able, and  these  bienes  de  la  Virgen  are  admini- 
stered in  her  name,  and  the  revenue  invested 
for  the  use  of  her  culto.  At  Toledo,  she  was 
suzerain  lady  of  the  town  of  Agofrin,  four 
leagues  from  the  city,  and  on  her  festival  women 
were  allowed  to  enter  the  cathedral  choir  during 
the  service.  Our  Saviour  is  treated  as  a  king 
(constitutional),  called  'His  Divine  Majesty,' 
and  when  the  host  passes  by  any  barrack,  the 
guard  tum  out,  present  arms,  and  the  royal 
anthem, '  La  MarciaReal,'  is  played.  Villages, 
and  even  the  poorest  lugar,  boast  of  their  Cristo 
de  la  Luz,  de  la  Espiha,  del  Socorro,  del  Cami- 
nante,  and  a  hundred  others,  and  of  their  Virgen 
de  la  Niebe,  de  la  O,  de  la  Paloma,  La  Blanca, 
etc.,  and  when  rival  processions  meet,  the  co- 
frades  have  more  than  once  insulted  the  rival 
image,  pelted  it,  and  defended  theirs  with  the 
knife  and  bludgeon. 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


453 


invasion,  the  rest  being  sent  to  Cadiz. 
Observe  the  Guion  or  Archiepiscopal 
Cross,  the  very  one  carried  by  the  Gran 
Cardenal,  Mendoza,  and  planted  on  the 
Alhambra  at  the  taking  of  its  fortress, 
January  2, 1492.  The  four  parts  of  the 
world,  or  globes,  given  by  Mary  Ann 
of  Neuburg,  Charles  IFs  wife  ;  the 
sword  of  Alfonso  VI. ;  a  richly  illumi- 
nated Bible  of  the  12th  century,  given 
by  St.  Louis,  Bishop  of  Toulouse ;  and, 
in  a  corner,  within  a  paltry  urn,  the 
bones  of  kings  Wamba  and  Recesvin- 
thus. 

The  Ochavo  is  a  long  room,  ornamented 
with  marbles,  and  so  called  from  its 
octagon  (ocho,  eight)  form.  The  bronzes 
were  the  work  of  a  Roman  silversmith, 
called  Alexander  Bracho.  The  frescoes 
are  by  Carreiio,  Maella,  Ricci,  and  other 
worthies.  The  reliquaries  are  very  rich, 
especially  for  the  intrinsic  value,  num- 
bering altogether  116  ;  amongst  them 
is  one  which  contains  part  of  the  veil 
from  Sta.  Leoeadia,  another  Virgin,  who 
visited  that  lucky  man,  San  ildefonso, 
when  he  cut  it  with  the  ivory  poniard 
of  King  Reccesvinth  ;  a  letter  of  St. 
Louis  ;  bodies  of  San  Eugenio  and  Sta. 
Leocadia ;  jaws,  teeth,  knee-caps,  feet 
and  legs,  skulls,  nerves,  and  other  ana- 
tomical subjects. 

Chapter  House.  —  The  antesala  is 
Gothic  ;  the  statues  it  contains  are  by 
Copin  (1510).  The  artesonado,  excel- 
lent. The  capitular  sala  is  splendid. 
The  square  portal  is  by  Bernardino 
Bonifacio,  and  is  purely  Moorish,  with 
the  arms  of  Cisneros.  It  was  designed 
by  Maese  Pablo  or  Paulo,  1510.  There 
is  a  sumptuous  grandeur  about  this  hall 
well  suited  to  those  mitred  kings  who 
sat  on  stalls  converted  by  art  into  un- 
rivalled thrones,  and  whose  councils 
governed  the  world.  It  is  adorned 
with  precious  marbles  and  mosaics,  a 
glorious  artesonado  roof,  painted  blue  | 
and  led  and  gilt,  and  most  Alhambraic 


in  the  gorgeous  ornamentation  and  style, 
begun  by  Lopez  Arenas,  the  great  Sevil- 
lian  artesonista,  end  of  15th  century, 
and  finished  by  Luis  Medina  and  Alfonso 
Sanchez,  in  1510.  The  frescoes  on  the 
walls  are  by  Juan  de  Borgona,  who  also 
painted  the  portraits  of  the  eighty-two 
archbishops  of  Toledo,  from  St.  Eu- 
genius  to  Ximenes,  all  likenesses  de 
capricho,  except  Cardinals  Mendoza  and 
Ximenes,  which  are  portraits.  The 
stalls  are  very  elaborately  carved,  the 
work  of  Copin  of  Holland  (1512).  On 
the  backs  the  series  of  Archbishops 
from  Ximenes  is  continued  to  this  day, 
and  painted  by  Borgo&a,  Comontes, 
Luis,  Carbajal,  Tristan,  Ricci,  Goya, 
etc. 

Cloisters. — The  lower  cloister  is  en- 
tered by  the  Puerta  del  Mollete,  so 
called  from  the  old  conventual  custom 
of  distributing  loaves  (molletes,  small 
loaves  made  of  the  finest  flour,  whence 
round  and  plump  cheeks  are  called 
1  molletes,1  the  viola  of  Virgil. — JEne&A, 
iv.  part  8).  It  has  a  small  Gothic  facade 
of  beginning  of  15th  century.  On  the 
site  of  the  cloister  the  Jews  originally 
held  their  market  or  Al-Eanah  ;  this 
lasted  until  Archbishop  Tenorio  pur- 
chased it  from  them  and  erected  this 
edifice  (1389),  entrusting  it  to  the  archi- 
tect of  the  cathedral,  Rodrigo  Alfonso. 
It  is  Gothic,  all  of  stone,  and  composed 
of  four  galleries,  each  measuring  186  ft. 
long,  by  27  ft.  wide,  and  60  ft.  high. 
The  former  altars  and  pictures,  prior  to 
the  16th  century,  were  taken  away 
about  the  middle  of  the  last  century, 
and  substituted  by  frescoes  of  Maella 
and  Bayeu,  most  of  which  the  damp- 
ness of  the  walls  (being  lower  than  the 
streets)  had  effaced.  Conrado  and 
Castillo  have  painted  others,  mostly 
copies  from  Giordano.  In  this  cloister 
is  a  white  marble  slab,  the  consecration* 
stone  of  the  cathedral,  founded  in  1591. 

Summer  Chapter  Sola  (Library).     It 


4«4 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


was  built  by  Cardinal  Ximenes  at  the 
end  of  the  15th  century ;  it  is  no  longer 
used,  and  has  little  to  attract  notice, 
haying  been  modernised  in  1644.  Over 
it  is  the  Library  of  the  cathedral.  It 
was  founded  by  Archbishop  Tenorio  in 
1880,  but  entirely  rebuilt  and  enlarged 
by  Cardinal  Ximenes.  It  is  very  rich 
in  MSS.,  more  so  than  in  printed  books. 
The  early  collection  of  Cardinal  Tenorio, 
and  7000  volumes  and  MSS.  brought 
from  Rome  by  Cardinal  Lorenzana,  the 
Hebrew,  Greek,  and  Arab  MSS.  of  great 
value — works  of  Aristotle  (copies  made 
in  the  13th  and  15th  centuries) ;  French 
and  Italian  early  poetry ;  several  He- 
brew Bibles  with  commentaries,  very 
ancient;  a  Muzarabic  missal  of  the  10th 
century ;  prayer-book  of  Crazy  Jane, 
and  missal  of  Charles  V. ;  some  codices 
with  admirable  miniatures,  vignettes, 
and  initial  illuminated  letters  of  the  8th 
to  16th  century,  by  Alejo  Gimenez, 
Vazquez,  Buitrago,  Arrogo,  Comontes, 
Juan  de  Salazar,  etc.  <ST  Permission 
to  visit,  read,  or  copy,  is  necessary  from 
the  Archbishop  of  Toledo,  and  is  not 
very  easily  obtained. 

Capilla  de  San  Bias. — In  the  angle 
formed  by  the  N.  and  E.  cloisters,  the 
Gothic  portal  leading  to  it  is  elegant. 
The  chapel  was  founded  by  Cardinal 
Tenorio,  who  is  buried  here  (ob.  1399), 
close  to  his  chaplain,  Balboa.  The 
paintings  over  the  three  altars  are  by 
Bias  del  Prado,  Philip  IPs  pintor  de 
Camara.  The  tenebrario  and  candela- 
brum for  the  Cirio  Pascual  are  modern 
works  and  indifferent.  In  the  upper 
cloisters,  erected  by  Ximenes,  is  kept 
the  monvmento  exhibited  during  the 
functions  of  the  Holy  "Week,  very  mag- 
nificent here,  and  only  surpassed  in 
Spain  by  those  of  Seville.  It  is  very 
gaudy,  all  of  silver  and  gold,  and  cost 
£16,000.  It  dates  1807,  at  a  time  when 
the  money  had  better  have  been  em- 
ployed in  raising  troops  to  defend  the 


land.  The  stone  employed  in  thf 
building  is  of  two  sorts.  That  used  in 
the  interior  comes  from  Oliguelas. 

Painted  Glass,  —  The  windows  are 
divided  into  six  arches  with  arabesques. 
The  stained  glass  is,  we  think,  superior 
here  to  that  of  Seville,  and  inferior  to 
Leon.  Jaime  Dolfin  (a  Fleming,  no 
doubt),  painted  all  those  of  the  apsis, 
and  around  it,  in  1418.  He  was  suc- 
ceeded as  maestro  vidriero  by  Maese 
Luis  and  Gasquin  of  Utrecht  (1429), 
Vasco  of  Troyes  (1503),  and  Alberto 
de  Holanda  (1525).  In  1542,  the 
Chapter  established  a  school  of  paint- 
ing on  glass,  and  the  Vergaras  suc- 
ceeded each  other  in  the  professorship. 
These  masters  had  all  their  secret 
touches  and  ways  of  preparing  which 
they  would  not  easily  disclose,  the 
pintar  d  fuego  amongst  others  (see 
General  Information  :  Painting),  and  in 
1696,  Francisco  Olias,  then  maestro  de 
las  vidrieras,  refused  to  initiate  several 
pupils,  but  Sanchez  Martinez  discovered 
his  secret,  and  was  named  in  his  room, 
1713.  In  1721,  he  wrote  a  book  on  his 
art  which  he  dedicated  to  the  Chapter. 
The  different  periods  of  this  art  can  be 
studied  here,  successively,  if  we  begin 
with  the  head  of  the  church  in  the  cen- 
tral nave  (subjects,  saints,  and  patri- 
archs), and  end  with  those  in  the 
lateral  naves,  placed  in  circular  frames 
(subjects,  smaller  figures,  landscapes, 
and  scenes).  The  subjects  are  gener- 
ally from  Holy  Scripture,  lives  of  the 
saints,  arms  and  devices,  etc.  The 
characteristics  are,  glorious,  vivid,  very 
richly-tinted  colouring,  in  the  earlier 
portion ;  the  drawing  easy,  the  atti- 
tudes stiff,  and  the  draperies  rigid  and 
hard.  The  greens,  reds,  and  yellows  of 
the  more  modern  portions  are  also  fresh 
and  admirable,  more  transparent  in 
some,  wanting  in  depth  of  colouring; 
somewhat  over-ornamented  in  those  of 
the  15th  century,  but  the  drawing  freer, 


i 

J 


TOLEDO — SAN  JUAN  DET  LOS  REYES. 


455 


the  expression  greater,  and  more  life, 
ease,  movement,  and  vigour  in  the 
grouping,  draperies,  etc. 

fiesume*. — On  the  whole,  this  superb 
structure  stands  unrivalled  in  many 
points,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  and 
largest  cathedrals  in  the  world.  Its 
associations  with  the  early  times  and 
latter  days  of  the  Gothic  empire — its 
celebrated  councils,  the  great  monarchs 
who  were  crowned  here,  the  heroes  who 
enriched  its  altars  with  the  spoils  of 
victory,  and  the  master-minds  of  gene- 
rations of  races,  in  politics,  and  arts, 
and  letters — render  it  as  important  as 
St.  Peter's,  independently  of  the  beauty 
of  its  style  and  more  Christian  character. 


San  Juan  de  los  Reyes.— This  beau- 
tiful Gothic  pile  belongs  to  the  Florid— 
almost  Transition — period,  and,  though 
degenerate  in  matters  of  ornamenta- 
tion, may  yet  pose  as  one  of  the  finest 
specimens  of  Spanish  Gothic.  It  was 
erected  in  1476  by  the  Catholic  Kings 
in  thanksgiving  for  the  victory  of  Toro, 
where  the  defeat  of  the  King  of  Portu- 
gal dealt  the  death-blow  to  the  party 
and  supposed  rights  of  '  la  Beltraneja ' 
to  the  crown  of  Castile.  Their  inten- 
tion was  to  found  a  collegiate  church 
and  place  of  sepulchre  ;  but  the  erection 
of  a  royal  chapel  at  Granada  subse- 
quent to  the  conquest,  and  some  diffi- 
culties that  arose,  made  them  abandon 
the  idea,  and  it  was  converted  into  a 
monastery  for  Franciscan  monks,  who 
nad  founded  an  establishment  extra 
niuros,  in  1230.  The  architect  who 
designed  the  church  and  cloisters  was 
Juan  Guas.  The  Florid  Gothic  con- 
tinued to  predominate  in  the  works 
until  the  death  of  Guas,  when  the  style 
wavered  some  time  between  Gothic  of 
Decline  and  beginning  of  Revival, 
passed  quickly  through  the  Plateresque 
to  fall  into  the  bastard  Grseco-Romaii, 


and  that  Gongorism  of  architecture 
called  Churrigueresque,  a  style  sprung 
from  a  transition  state  of  society,  and 
in  unison  with  the  periwigs,  jabots, 
ruffles,  etc.  etc.  The  edifice  is  an  ob- 
long square  somewhat  rounded  in  the 
abris,  and  the  interior  in  the  shape  of 
a  Latin  cross  with  a  circular  presbytery. 
It  is  200  ft.  long  by  73  ft.  wide,  and 
80  ft.  high.  The  shape  is  square, 
rounded  off  at  the  chevet. 

Exterior. — The  apse  is  most  elegant 
and  chaste,  with  two  stages  of  arches, 
flanked  by  six  pillars  with  filigree  pin 
nacles,  decorated  with  statues.  The 
stone  of  which  it  is  made  is  Berroquefia 
on  the  outside,  and  white  and  creamy 
inside  ;  open-worked  galleries,  series  of 
diminutive  archlets,  elaborate  niches, 
with  statues  of  kings-of-arms  under 
airy  light  canopies.  From  the  walls 
hang  a  number  of  chains  suspended  as 
ex-votos  by  captives  delivered  after  the 
capture  of  Granada.  The  principal  en- 
trance was  originally  at  the  extremity 
of  the  nave,  opposite  to  the  high  altar. 
The  present  one  was  designed  and  put 
up  by  A.  de  Covarrubias,  who  built  it 
in  1553,  for  Philip  II.,  and,  being 
finished  in  the  17th  century,  bears  the 
traces  of  the  styles  prevalent  at  differ- 
ent periods,  and  is  between  the  decline 
of  Gothic  and  Plateresque.  Observe, 
besides,  the  six  statues  of  saints  of  tho 
Seraphic  order,  the  effigy  of  St.  John 
the  Baptist,  the  tutelar  patron  of  the 
Catholic  Kings ;  whence  the  name  of 
this  church,  and  the  royal  arms,  with 
the  badges  and  initials  F.  and  T.,  and 
two  Roman  warriors,  at  the  sides. 

Interior. — One  nave,  of  four  bays, 
very  spacious,  with  indifferent  chapels 
on  the  sides.  The  western  bay  has  a  deep 
groined  gallery  coeval  with  the  main 
portion.  The  former  magnificent  re- 
tablos,  its  superb  stained  windows, 
walnut  stalls,  and  pictures,  amongst 
them  the  authentic  portraits  of   the 


456 


TOLEDO — SAN  JUAN  DE  LOS  REYES 


Catholic  Kings  by  Rincon,  of  which 
there  are  copies  at  Granada  Cathedral 
and  Madrid  Picture  Gallery  (their  ori- 
ginals are  at  Madrid,  Museo  de  la 
Trinidad),  organs,  etc.,  were  destroyed 
by  a  great  lire  in  1809,  a  sad  loss  to  art, 
if  we  believe  Ponz,  who  saw  them 
(*  Viaje  por  Espafia,'  vol.  i.)  The  pre- 
sent Renaissance  altar  was  brought 
from  the  desecrated  church  of  Santa 
Cruz.  The  Capilla  Mayor  is  formed 
by  a  shallow  apse,  of  good  late 
Gothic,  and  lighted  by  stained  glass 
windows  which  escaped  the  devas- 
tating fire  of  1809.  The  crucero 
or  transept  occupying  the  whole 
width  of  nave  and  side  chapels  yields 
some  of  the  best  work  in  the  build- 
ing. Observe  the  elaborate  Saracenic 
decoration  on  the  walls,  the  colossal 
shields  and  the  Latin  and  Spanish  in- 
scriptions which  fringe  them  and  refer 
to  the  royal  founders  of  this  truly  royal 
chapel.  It  is  a  perfect  specimen  of  the 
heraldic-moresque  peculiarities  of  style 
adopted  in  the  reign  of  the  Catholic 
Kings.  The  raised  lantern  is  roofed 
with  an  octagonal  vault,  with  pen- 
dentives.  Observe  the  most  exquisite 
tribunes  or  ambons  for  the  royal  family, 
placed  at  some  height  in  the  angles  of 
the  transept ;  they  look  like  ivory  work. 
Cloisters. — They  form  a  square  — 
each  gallery  is  80  ft.  long,  and  with  a 
fine  groined  roof,  composed  of  twenty- 
four  bovedas,  crossed  by  aristas.  These 
cloisters  and  church,  though  much  de- 
teriorated, are  among  the  finest  and 
richest  examples  of  Florid  Gothic  in 
Europe ;  not  of  the  purest  period,  but 
verging  on  its  decline,  and  when  its 
love  of  ornamentation  and  effect  knew 
no  bounds,  and  was  already  paving  the 
way  for  that  reaction  which  ushered 
in  the  style  that  was  called  Graeco- 
Koinan.  Observe  the  foliage  of  the 
capitals,  the  birds  and  other  animals, 
the  fine  statues,  and  the  frieze,  with  a 


long  inscription  in  praise  of  the  Catho- 
lic Kings.  The  whole  of  the  western 
gallery  crumbled  to  the  ground,  and 
all  the  rest  suffered  a  great  deal  from 
the  fire  which  took  place  in  1809,  as 
also  from  the  hand  of  Carlists  and  pro- 
nunciamientos ;  for  it  is  singular  how 
closely  related  religious  indifference  is 
to  superstition.  The  latter  sometimes 
becomes  the  religion  of  those  that  have 
none,  but  oftener  still,  linked  by  the 
law  of  'les  extremes  se  touchent,'  to 
atheistical  moral  paralysis.  Thus  may 
be  explained  the  mutilations  and  havoc 
of  churches  done  by  Spaniards  with 
greater  wantonness  than  even  Crom- 
well's soldiers  in  England.  Observe 
on  the  north-east  angle  a  fine  plater- 
esque  staircase  leading  to  the  upper 
cloister,  which  was  designed  by  Covar- 
rubias.  A  portion  of  this  eastern  side 
is  now  converted  into  a  Museo  Provin- 
cial. On  the  ground  floor  is  a  large 
collection  of  wood  carvings,  statues, 
and  various  ancient  monuments.  See 
especially  Berruguete's  bust  of  Juanelo, 
a  Christ  by  Morales,  some  interesting 
old  paintings  on  panel,  and  the  Arabic 
brims  of  wells,  with  Cufic  inscriptions. 
The  upper  room  is  devoted  to  a  picture 
gallery.  Here  was  once  the  cell  of 
Cardinal  Ximenes.  The  restoration 
of  the  cloisters  has  been  carried  out  at 
the  expense  of  the  Academy  of  San 
Fernando,  in  Madrid.  We  should 
have  preferred  the  ivy  and  wild  vine, 
the  gatuna  and  other  weeds,  those  only 
friends  in  the  world  that  love  to  cling 
to  what  is  ruined  and  neglected,  who 
have  healed  many  a  scar  inflicted  by 
the  hand  of  time  and  man  on  those 
walls,  and  whose  shining  deep  green 
contrasted  with  the  fretted  fringes  of 
the  niches,  capitals,  and  canopies,  that, 
like  yellowed  and  worn  rich  old  lace, 
hung  about  and  above  the  gravestone 
saints  that  cast  their  mysterious  sha- 
dows on  the  walls. 


TOLEDO — SANTA  MARIA. 


457 


The  small  church  close  by  was  built 
in  the  17th  century,  and  is  closed. 

Santa  Maria  la  Blanca. — This  and 
El  Transito  were  among  the  finest 
synagogues  erected  by  the  wealthy  and 
powerful  Jews  of  Toledo  in  this  their 
own  barrio  or  quartier.  The  building 
belongs  to  the  Moorish  style  of  Tran- 
sition, or  second  period  (beginning  of 
12th  century).  In  1405  the  neighbours 
of  that  barrio  were  roused  by  the  vio- 
lent preaching  of  San  Vicente  Ferrer, 
and  expelled  the  Jews.  It  was  then 
converted  into  a  church,  under  the 
advocation  of  Santa  Maria  la  Blanca 
(Notre  Dame  des  Neiges  of  the  French), 
till  about  1550,  when  Cardinal  Arch- 
bishop Siliceo  enlarged  it,  and  turned 
it  into  an  asylum  for  traviatas  retired 
from  business ;  but  repentance  amongst 
these  ladies  becoming  every  day  rarer, 
this  ejemplarisima  funcUtcioriy  as  the 
Spanish  writer  calls  it,  had  to  cease  in 
1600.  It  continued  as  a  church  till 
1791,  when  Spanish  troops  were  quar- 
tered in  it.  From  a  barrack  it  became 
a  military  store,  a  dancing  hall,  etc.  It 
has  now  been  repaired.  The  outside  is 
plain  and  almost  repulsive.  It  is  pre- 
ceded by  a  patio.  Its  ground-plan  is 
that  of  a  basilica,  and  forms  an  oblong 
square  81  ft.  long  by  63  ft.  wide,  and 
divided  into  five  naves,  of  which  the 
central  is  60  ft.  high  and  15  ft.  wide, 
whilst  the  lateral  ones  are  only  12  ft. 
broad,  and  vary  gradually  in  height 
from  50  ft.  to  40  ft.  These  naves  are 
formed  by  twenty-eight  horseshoe 
arches,  that  spring  from  thirty-two 
octagon  pillars,  the  capitals  of  which 
are  varied  in  shape  and  details,  and 
evince  the  influence  of  the  Byzantine 
taste.  They  are  full  of  originality,  not 
devoid  of  elegance.  Over  the  arches, 
whose  spandrels  are  decorated  with 
graceful  arabesque  rose  patterns,  rises 
the  cusped  wall  arcade  that  separates 
the  naves,  and  which  is  ornamented 


with  the  al-haraca  work.  Stalactite 
archlets  run  over  those,  and  rest  on 
paired  pillarets,  crowned  by  an  ela- 
borate frieze,  with  minute  work.  Th« 
fine  artesonado  roof  is  of  alerce  (Pinus 
larix)  wood,  and  has  coupled  beams, 
and  was  once  all  gold  and  colours. 
The  three  small  chapels  which  were 
added  by  Cardinal  Siliceo  are  plater- 
esque.  The  retablo  is  ascribed  to  Ber- 
ruguete,  but  is  more  likely  by  some 
pupil  of  iiis  ;  it  is  elaborately  sculp- 
tured, gilt,  and  'estofado.'  The  pave- 
ment is  worthy  of  notice. 

Transito. — So  called  from  the  pas- 
sage (trans  ire)  from  this  life,  or  the 
death,  of  the  Virgin.  This  was  another 
synagogue,  built  at  the  beginning  of 
the  14th  century  by  the  Rabbi  Meir 
Abdali  for  the  wealthy  treasurer  of 
Don  Pedro,  the  Rothschild  of  that  age, 
Samuel  Levi.  It  was  completed  a.d. 
1366.  At  the  expulsion  of  the  Jews 
in  1492,  the  Catholic  kings  gave  it  to 
the  Order  of  Calatrava,  and  called 
it  de  San  Benito.  The  archives  of 
an  ecomienda  of  this  order  and  of 
Alcantara  may  be  seen  here.  This 
synagogue,  built  in  the  days  of  Jewish 
prosperity,  when  the  Granadine  florid 
style  had  reached  its  acme,  is  built  of 
brick  outside,  but  the  walls  of  its  only 
nave  are  most  superbly  decorated  with 
stuccoed  Alhambraic  work.  This  nave 
is  76  ft.  long  by  31  ft.  5  in.  wide,  and 
44  ft.  high.  Observe  especially  the 
western  wall,  in  the  centre  of  which 
was  placed  the  pulpit  from  which  the 
Rabbis  explained  the  Law,  and  which 
is  now  replaced  by  the  high  altar  and 
retablo.  It  is  covered  all  over  by  the 
richest  ornamentation.  About  as  high 
as  the  middle  of  the  N.  and  S.  walls 
runs  a  wide  frieze  fringed  by  stuccoed 
vine-leaves  twined  with  ribbons  and 
star  patterns.  Below,  and  on  the  foui 
sides,  spreads  a  series  of  fifty  arcades 
embedded  in  the  walls  and  resting  on 


458 


TOLEDO — MINOR  CHURCHES. 


salient  half  pillars.     The  arches  are 
composed  of  an  ogive,  distributed  into 
seven  circular  portions  or  lobes.     The 
pillarets   are  of   excellent    Byzantine 
style.     The  capitals  varied  in  design  ; 
and  the  lattice  work  or  agimeses  most 
elaborate  and  chaste.     The  ceiling  is  a 
rich  artesonado  made  of  cedar.     On 
right  and  left  of  altar  are  long  Hebrew 
inscriptions    placed  under  shields    of 
Castile  and  Leon  (a  tribute  of  gratitude 
and  homage  to  Don  Pedro,  the  Jews' 
protector).      These    inscriptions,   now 
illegible,    were   the    object    of  much 
learned  controversy  between  Heydeck 
and    the    Spanish    Academia    de    la 
Historia,    which    will    be    found    in 
Andrada's   '  Cronica    de    las    Ordenes 
Militares,'  where    also   is    found  the 
original    inscription    and    the    trans- 
lation, made  by  a  Jew  in  the  16th 
century,  when  it  was  still  legible.     It 
alludes    to    the  founder,   and    praises 
the    Castilian    king.      Among    other 
things,  the  Jews  of  the  14th  century 
say — 'And  we  who  inhabit  this  land 
have  built  this  house  with  a  strong  and 
powerful  arm.'     The  pictures  of  the 
retablo  represent  San  Benito  and  St. 
Bernard,    and    are    indifferent.      The 
other  retablos,  which  fill  the  spot  al- 
lotted to  the  women's  tribune,  are  also 
indifferent.     The  other  inscriptions  on 
N.  and  S.  walls  are  portions  of  David's 
Psalms,   the  83d    and  99th.      Beside 
the  arms  of  Don  Pedro  are  the  three 
fleurs-de-lys  appertaining  to  his  Queen 
Blanche.      JV.  B.  —  All  around    these 
synagogues  extended  the  narrow  streets 
inhabited  by  the  Toledan  Jews,  whose 
houses  they  judiciously  endeavoured  to 
make  as  humble  and  plain  as  possible, 
partly  from  avarice,  partly  from  tradi- 
tional Eastern  habits,  and  not  a  little 
to  avoid  the  envious  eye  of  the  Chris- 
tian.  There  were  two  Jewrys  at  Toledo, 
La  Juderia    Mayor   and    La   Juderia 
Menor  ;  the  former  was  defended  by  a 


fortress  garrisoned  by  Jews  alone ;  anl 
so  numerous,  indeed,  were  they  here, 
that  on  the  Inquisition  being  estab- 
lished at  Toledo  in  1478,  17,000  Jews, 
who  went  by  the  dubious  name  of  '  Con- 
versos,1  shrewdly  offered  instantly  to 
c  reconciliarse  con  la  Iglesia.' 

Minor  Churches.  Santo  Tome.— 
A  mosque  rebuilt  and  embellished  at 
the  beginning  of  the  14th  century  by 
Senor  de  Orgaz,  whose  descendants  were 
counts  of  the  same  name.  The  great 
gem  of  this  edifice  is  the  celebrated 
picture  of  the  miraculous  burial  of  this 
pious  personage,  which  was  miraculous- 
ly attended  by  St.  Augustin  and  St 
Stephen.  The  miracle  took  place  in 
this  very  church  in  1312.  This  picture 
is,  according  to  all  connoisseurs,  £1 
Greco's  masterpiece.  '  It  was  painted 
in  1584  by  order  of  Don  Gaspar  de 
Quiroga,  Cardinal  and  Archbishop  of 
Toledo.  The  execution  resembles  Tin- 
toretto. The  reality  of  the  pictures  in 
the  lower  part  is  wonderful,  but  the 
upper  portion  is  somewhat  inferior.' 
(See  '  Handbook  of  Painting ;'  the  Span- 
ish, etc.,  Schools,  1st  ed.,  vol.  ii. 
p.  82 ;  and  Palomino,  vol.  iii.  pp. 
426-29.)  The  tone  of  it  is  Venetian. 
The  figures  are  not  extravagantly 
lengthy,  and  of  that  ashen  grey,  which 
is  the  characteristic  of  this  master; 
they  are  all  portraits,  the  priest  holding 
a  book,  in  the  foreground,  being  that 
of  Andres  Nunes,  the  parish  priest,  who 
gave  him  24,900rs.  to  paint  it.  'The 
vivid  colouring  of  El  Greco  suits  ad- 
mirably the  dead  body,  and  the  armour 
in  which  it  is  clad  is  beautifully  paint- 
ed. The  heads  of  innumerable  by- 
standers are  finely  drawn,  but  want 
warmth,  and  the  four  burning  torches 
are  as  livid  as  their  faces.'  (Hoskins* 
'Spain  as  it  Is,'  vol.  ii.  p.  128.) 

The  church  itself,  once  a  mosque,  of 
which  the  steeple  is  a  vestige,  has  been 
modernised  and  is  indifferent,  and  the 


TOLEDO — MINOR  CHURCHES. 


459 


Sto.  Tomas  over  the  retablo  is  a  dauby 
picture  of  Don  Vicente  Lopez,  a  con- 
temporary R.A. 

SamJta  Cruz. — This  former  hospital, 
now  the  Infantry  College,  was  founded 
in  1494  by  El  Gran  Cardenal  Mendoza, 
who  confided  the  structure  to  En- 
rique de  Egas,  and  ordered  him  to  build 
it  in  the  shape  of  a  cross  of  Jerusalem 
(or  Malta),  of  which  he  was  styled 
Bishop,  in  which  he  had  much  faith, 
building  the  Colegio  Mayor  of  Vallado- 
lid  in  the  same  shape.  He  died  in  1 495, 
and  the  works  were  begun  by  order  of 
his  trustee,  the  Catholic  Queen,  1504. 
It  was  completed  in  1514,  and  is  a  very 
large  building,  the  area  measuring  not 
less  than  500  ft.  long,  by  300  ft.  wide. 
It  is  one  of  the  Revival  buildings  first 
erected  in  Spain,  and  constitutes,  there- 
fore, an  important  monument  for  the 
student  of  Spanish  architecture,  who 
will  notice  that  its  better  defined  char- 
acter is  essentially  different  from  the 
Italian  Revival  of  the  same  period. 
The  style  is  seen  dawning  in  the  Cole- 
gio Mayor  de  Santa  Cruz  of  Valladolid, 
1480-92,  and  it  is  seen  still  in  the 
Colegio  Mayor  of  Salamanca,  1521.  It 
is  considered  by  connoisseurs  as  one  of 
the  gems  of  the  world. 

The  S.  and  principal  portal  is  of 
white  Rosa  stone,  with  decorations  and 
plateresque  figures.  The  two  patios 
are  exquisite  and  admirably  decorated. 
The  staircase  is  a  gem  of  the  Transi- 
tion style,  between  florid  Gothic  and 
plateresque.  Its  balustrades,  moro-pla- 
teresque  artesonado  roof,  etc.,  would 
baffle  pen  and  pencil.  Observe  every- 
thing, the  upper  and  lower  galleries, 
the  door  between  the  first  and  second 
patios,  the  columns,  many  of  which 
were  dug  up  in  the  ruins  of  the  Gothic 
church  of  Santa  Leocadia,  and  therefore 
curious.  The  staircase  of  the  chapel  is 
the  gem  of  this  gem,  and  consists  of 
four  grand  elliptical  arches,  with  lofty 


buttresses,  elaborately  ornamented,  and 
with  escutcheons  of  the  Mendozas  and 
their  motto,  ( Ave  Maria,  gratia  plena. ' 
The  retablo  mayor  is  plateresque,  and 
is  ascribed  to  Francisco  of  Antwerp,  the 
subject  being  allusive  to  the  foundation 
of  this  edifice.  Over  the  lateral  altars 
are  some  good  copies  of  Guido  and  Lan- 
franco  ;  the  rest  are  ascribed  to  Giorda- 
no, and  are  indifferent,  though  the 
cathedral  tapestry  was  made  after  them. 

The  other  churches  are  mostly  uninteresting 
for  the  ordinary  tourist ;  we  only  mention  them 
with  their  characteristics. 

San  Roman. — A  former  mosque ;  a  Moorish 
steeple,  much  modernised,  very  remarkable. 
Its  vaults  deserve  inspection. 

Los  Silos.  Sto.  Domingo. — Ionic  chapel ; 
beautiful  artesonado  ceiling. 

San  Clemente. — Most  elegant  portal;  pla- 
teresque and  Berruguete-like. 

Cristo  de  la  buz. — This  is  a  most 
interesting  remnant  of  Moorish  archi- 
tecture. It  is  said  by  some  authors  to 
have  been  erected  by  the  Moors  on  the 
site  of  a  small  church  built  by  the  Goth 
Athanagild,  and  of  which  some  columns 
were  preserved  and  placed  in  the  build- 
ing. The  great  similarity  of  the  general 
design,  as  well  as  details,  with  the 
mosque  of  Cordova,  seems  to  confirm 
the  assertion  that  it  belongs  to  the  first 
period  of  Moorish  architecture,  and  was 
built  most  probably  about  the  middle 
of  the  11th  century.  It  was  standing, 
a  well-known  mosque,  at  the  time  of 
the  entrance  of  Alfonso  VI.  into  Toledo, 
on  Sunday,  May  25,  1085.  The  king 
stopped  in  his  progress,  entered,  and 
had  the  first  mass  said  here  by  the  Ab- 
bot D.  Bernard,  the  celebrated  French 
Archbishop  of  Toledo,  to  whose  care  it 
was  entrusted,  and  who  had  it  repaired, 
enlarged,  and  probably  somewhat  modi- 
fied as  to  style.  It  derives  its  name 
from  a  legend,  according  to  which,  as 
the  Cid's  horse  one  day  passed  by  this 
church,  the  steed  stopped  and  reveren- 
tially knelt,  upon  which  the  wall  oppo« 


r 


460 


TOLEDO — HOSPITAL  DB  TAVEftA. 


site  was  opened,  and  Christ's  Image 
was  found  within  a  niche,  lighted  up  by 
the  identical    lamps   that    had   been 
placed  there  by  the  Goths  several  centu- 
ries before.     It  subsequently  became 
the  property  of  two  military  orders,  San 
Juan  and  Del  Viso,  and  additions  took 
plaoe  at  different  periods.     The  main 
portion  and  most  of  the  features  of  the 
former  mosque  still  subsist     It  is  a 
small,  square  edifice,  being  only  22  ft. 
in  every  sense.     The  space  is  divided 
into  six  narrow  naves,  three  of  which 
cross  each  other  in  an  opposite  direc- 
tion, forming  thus  nine  vaults,  formed 
by  intersecting  cusped  ribs,  each  of  a 
different  design.     Four  heavy  horseshoe 
arches  spring  from  each  capital,  which 
latter,    as   well    as   the   low    circular 
columns,  belonged  to  the  original  Gothic 
building.     They  are  without  basement, 
reminding  us  of  those  in  the  mosque  at 
Cordova.     Over  the  arches  and  a  string 
course,  the  walls  are  generally  pierced 
with  five-lobed   open  arcades  (another 
feature  of  the  Mauritano-Cordovan  pe- 
riod) ;  but  in  the  central  compartment 
the  agimez  double-arched  windows  are 
seen   elegantly  cusped  and  supported 
by  shafts — the  third  and  fourth  stages 
in    this    compartment    having    walls 
pierced  with  skylights  of  Moorish  de- 
sign.    The  apse  is  a  later  addition  ;  the 
retablo,   altar,  and  images  deserve  no 
mention  ;  the  outside  is  built  of  brick 
and  stone,  decorated  with  Moorish  ar- 
cades. 

Cristo  de  la  Vega.—  Formerly  the  Ba- 
silica of  Sta.  Leocadia.  The  original 
building  was  erected  in  the  4th  centuiy, 
A.c,  on  the  site  of  Sta.  Leocadia's  mar- 
tyrdom. The  Goth  Sisebute  rebuilt  it 
in  the  7th  century,  converting  it  into 
a  magnificent  church,  and  four  among 
the  most  important  Councils  of  Toledo 
wore  hold  hero.  In  666  Sta.  Leocadia 
ftppoarod  hero  before  San  lldefonso  and 
Itacceiwinth,  on  the  day  of  her  festival, 


when,  after  she  had  complimented  the 
theologian  on  his  brilliant  defence  oi 
the  Virgin's  purity,  ne  with  the  kings 
dagger  cut  off  part  of  her  veil  as  a  token 
of  her  visit  enpersonne.     It  was  a  preto- 
riensis  church,  that  is,  royal-privileged, 
and  the  finest  then  in  the  Peninsula 
(most  of  the  columns  were  subsequently 
removed  to  Cardinal  Mendoza's  Hospi- 
tal de  la  Cruz,  and  others  placed  behind 
the  choir  of  the  cathedral).     Destroyed 
by  the  Moors,  it  was  partly  rebuilt  in 
the  15th  century,   and    repaired  and 
altered  in  the  18th,   to   be  destroyed 
once  more  during  the  French  invasion. 
All  that  now  remains  is  the  apse  oi 
Chapel  del  Cristo  de  la   Vega.    The 
present   image  was   recently  put  up 
(1816),  to  replace  the  former  one  which 
was  destroyed,  and  was  held  to  he  a 
miraculous  image,  which,  according  to 
a  legend  which  we  suspect  must  have 
been  written  by  some  young  lady,  held 
down  its  arms  to  confirm  the  promise  ol 
marriage  made  by  a  volage  youth,  and 
at  the  request  of  the  offended  senorita. 
Other  legends,  of  a  less  poetical  kind, 
say  that  the  arm  fell  down  with  a  ges- 
ture of  assertion    as    a  Christian  was 
claiming  before  its  image  a  sum  which 
a    Jew  had   received  from  him ;  hut 
Jews  were  always  lenders,  and  the  con- 
trary may  be  supposed. 

Hospital  de  Tavera. — Outside  the 
town,  whence  better  known  as  Hospital 
de  Afuera.  A  magnificent  chsritabie 
institution,  founded  by  the  Cardinal 
Archbishop  Tavera,  1540,  for  the  sick 
and  invalids,  and  now,  through  mar- 
riages, relationship,  etc.,  has  become 
the  patronato  de  sangre  of  the  house  of 
Medina  Celi.  It  was  designed  and 
carried  out  by  a  familiar  of  the  Cardi- 
nal Bartolom6  Bustamante,  whobecam6 
a  Jesuit  and  a  well-known  architect  oi 
his  time.  He  was  succeeded  by  L^* 
and  the  two  Vergaras,  who  followed  hu 
plana,     It  was  begun  in  1541,  andconv 


TOLEDO — ALCAZAR. 


461 


pleted  in  1624.  The  area  forms  a 
square,  300  feet  on  each  side,  with  four 
patios,  and  the  church  in  the  centre. 
There  are  portions  that  have  remained 
unfinished,  such  as  the  facade,  one  of 
the  two  towers,  etc.  The  patios  are 
very  grand  and  effective,  with  Doric 
and  Ionic  columns.  The  portals  be- 
long to  the  second  period  of  Spanish 
RevivaL  Observe  the  one  situated  at 
the  extremity  of  the  portico  over  the 
Doric  pillars  and  cornice,  the  statues  of 
warriors  holding  the  founder's  escut- 
cheon. It  is  ascribed  to  Berruguete 
(Alfonso).  It  leads  to  the  church. 
This  latter  is  spacious,  in  the  shape  of 
a  Latin  cross,  and  consisting  of  a  single 
nave  some  140  ft.  long  by  80  ft.  wide 
in  the  transept,  and  100  ft.  high.  The 
style  is  classical,  and  the  whole  is  plain, 
of  vast  proportions  and  not  wanting  in 
elegance.  The  three  altars  are  by 
Domingo  Theotocopuli  (El  Grecco), 
and  indifferent.  The  gem  here  is  the 
founder's  mausoleum;  it  stands  isolated 
in  the  centre  of  the  transept,  and  is  the 
last  work  which  Berruguete  ever  exe- 
cuted. He  sculptured  it  in  1559,  when 
nearly  eighty  years  old,  assisted  by  his 
son.  He  died  whilst  working  on  it  in 
1561,  and  the  allegorical  statues  of  the 
Four  Virtues  are  ascribed  to  his  son. 
Nothing  can  exceed  the  admirable  wax- 
like execution  of  the  elaborate  details  ; 
the  composition  is  equally  good,  and 
there  is  great  elegance  and  taste  not- 
withstanding exuberance  of  decoration. 
Observe  the  eagles  with  spread  wings 
on  the  corners  of  the  urn  ;  the  relievos 
and  medallions  which  represent  differ- 
ent subjects,  the  groups  of  children 
with  garlands  of  flowers,  death's-heads, 
etc.  The  recumbent  effigy  of  the  car- 
dinal is  equally  well  executed,  and  the 
expression  that  of  repose,  piety,  and 
benevolence.  The  details  of  mitre, 
vestments,  etc.,  are  very  minute. 
Capilla  de  San  Jost. — Choir  classical 


and  indifferent.  Three  good  paintings 
by  El  Grecco  of  San  Jose  and  the  In- 
fant Deity  in  central  retablo,  and  in 
the  lateral  ones  Virgin  and  Child,  and 
San  Martin  sharing  his  cloak  with  a 
beggar. 

Publio  Edifices— Alcazar. — The 
site  of  the  palace  of  the  Gothic  kings  is 
not  known  ;  it  stood  probably  close  to 
Fuente  San  Martin.  There  was  here  a 
Roman  citadel  which  the  Goths  pre- 
served as  such.  Alfonso  VI.,  after  the 
conquest  of  the  town,  built  a  palace 
here  ;  more  of  a  fortress,  no  doubt,  as 
his  new  subjects  in  the  city  were  all 
Moors  who  had  to  be  kept  in  check. 
The  Cid  was  entrusted  with  the  Alcaidia 
of  it,  and  lived  close  by  on  the  site  now 
called  Plazuela  del  Hospital  de  Santi- 
ago, and  towards  the  corner  of  the 
house  which  was  formerly  the  Casa  de 
Caridad.  It  was  subsequently  strength- 
ened, enlarged,  and  embellished,  espe- 
cially under  Alfonso  X.,  Juan  II.,  and 
the  Catholic  Kings,  of  whose  time  there 
are  still  some  rooms,  and  the  E.  and  W. 
facades.  Charles  V.  and  his  son  Philip 
rebuilt  most  of  the  edifice  on  a  new 
plan,  but  it  was  seriously  injured  and 
almost  destroyed  by  a  fire  in  1710, 
fanned— say,  as  usual,  Spanish  moderns 
— by  the  English  troops,  and  prompted 
from  sheer  envy.  But  first  of  all,  the 
troops  quartered  here  in  1710,  during 
the  war  of  Succession,  were  composed 
chiefly  of  Portuguese,  Dutch,  and  Ger- 
mans, under  General  Staremberg  ;  and 
it  is  well  known  that  it  was  the  Portu- 
guese Commander  Atalaya  who  set  fire 
to  the  building.  Cardinal  Lorenzana, 
the  last  of  the  kingly  Archbishops  of 
Toledo,  restored  it,  1772-75,  and  con- 
verted it  into  a  charitable  institution; 
his  architect,  V.  Rodriguez,  altering 
little  or  nothing  of  the  former  plan.  In 
1810,  the  French  did  set  fire  to  it  as  a 
farewell  feu  d' artifice,  and  what  we  now 


462 


TOLEDO. 


is  little  else  than  the  work  of 
modern  restoration,  the  place  having 
been  converted,  at  a  cost  of  over 
£20,000,  into  a  military  college  for  the 
education  of  officers,  with  accommoda- 
tion for  650  cadets.  In  the  autumn  of 
1886  the  building  was  gutted  by  fire, 
and  there  is  little  save  bare  walls  to 
be  now  seen.  Observe,  nevertheless, 
the  north  plateresque  facade  of  1651, 
most  exquisitely  decorated,  and  tbe 
work  of  Enrique  Egas  after  designs 
of  Covarrubias ;  the  south  facade,  de- 
signed by  Juan  de  Herrera,  1571-84, 
who  also  designed  the  staircase  and 
chapel,  all  of  which  Martin  Barrena 
executed.  It  is  Doric,  with  four  stages 
decorated  with  pilasters.  It  is  con- 
sidered by  most  connoisseurs  as  in- 
ferior  to  the  former  for  elegance  and 
effect.  The  west  facade  is  of  the 
15th  century,  the  time  and  reign 
of  the  Catholic  Kings,  but  the  door 
and  ornamentation  were  added  by 
Covarrubias,  in  the  plateresque  style. 
The  east  facade  is  of  the  13th  cen- 
tury, and  its  castellated  walls  with 
cubo- turrets,  its  buttresses,  etc.,  be- 
speak sufficiently  the  times  of  Alfonso 
El  Sabio.  Observe  the  statue  of  Philip 
V .  in  the  centre  of  the  great  patio,  and 
read  the  inscription.  This  patio  is 
worthy  of  the  old  Alcazar;  it  is  an 
oblong  surrounded  by  upper  and  lower 
galleries,  each  of  which  consists  of 
thirty-two  arches  resting  on  Corinthian 
columns,  all  of  stone,  and  with  the 
escutcheons  on  stone  also  of  the  many 
kingdoms  and  provinces  over  which 
Charles  Y.'s  eagle  could  soar  and  call 
his  own.  This  patio  is  the  master- 
piece of  Villalpando,  who  was  aided 
by  Gonzalez  de  Lara  and  Gaspar  de 
Vega.  Staircase. — Facing  the  entrance 
is  the  admirable  staircase,  one  of  the 
finest  in  Spain,  designed  by  Covar- 
rubias and  carried  out  by  Villalpando 
and  Vega,  and  finally,  in  1561.  com- 


pleted by  Juan  de  Herrera.  It  is  of  a 
regal  style,  and  worthy,  as  it  was,  of 
Philip  11/8  attention,  who  used  to  send 
his  instructions  about  it  from  London, 
where  he  was  when  Herrera  was  design- 
ing it  (1555).  The  anecdote,  therefore, 
which  relates  that  on  his  first  ascending 
it,  Charles  V.  exclaimed  that  when  he 
was  on  that  staircase  he  really  felt  he 
was  an  emperor  and  king,  is  a  fable, 
for  it  was  finished  when  he  was  at 
Brussels,  and  the  year  before  his  abdi- 
cation. The  steps  are  each  of  one  block 
of  stone,  and  measure  50  ft.  in  length, 
and  its  caja  (the  nave  in  which  it  is) 
is  100  ft.  long  by  50  ft.  wide.  The 
interior — class-rooms,  restored  chapel, 
etc.  —  has  been  practically  destroyed, 
and  never  possessed  great  interest.  Do 
not  fail  to  notice  the  fine  view  over  the 
river  from  the  plaza  in  front  of  the 
building. 

CasueofSan  Cervantes. — Three  tur- 
rets and  a  few  ruined  walls  are  all  that 
remain  of  that  edifice,  formerly  called 
de  San  Servando,  an  old  castle  built 
and  rebuilt  oftentimes,  and  which  be- 
longed to  the  Templars  till  the  suppres- 
sion of  their  order  In  1302.  The  Moors 
strengthened  it,  and  have  left  two 
horse-shoe  arches  as  vestiges  of  their 
passage.  In  Calderon's  days  fashion- 
able duels  used  to  take  place  here 
(see  'Cada  uno  para  si'),  and  before 
his  time  Lope  de  Vega,  in  his  comedy 
of  '  Amar  sin  saber  quien,'  mentions  it 
likewise. 

Town -HalL— These  Casas  Consis- 
toriales  date  mostly  17th  century,  as 
the  former  edifice  of  15th  century  has 
been  often  remodelled.  It  is  not  want- 
ing in  elegance  and  effect,  and  is  after 
designs  by  Jorge  Theotocopuli,  Grecco's 
son.  It  is  of  the  classical  order,  and 
was  completed  in  1618.  The  interior 
has  little  to  invite  the  tourist's  attention ; 
the  inscription  over  the  N.  facade  i* 
very  fine  and  allusive  to  the  Corregi 


TOLEDO. 


465 


dores ;  it  was  composed  by  the  celebrated 
poet  Jorge  Manrique  for  his  relative  D. 
Gomez  Mannque,  who  was  the  first  Cor- 
regidor  Toledo  ever  had : — 

Nobles,  discretos  varones 
Que  gobernais  a  Toledo, 
En  aquestos  escalones 
Desechad  las  aficiones, 
Codicia,  temor  y  miedo. 
Por  los  communes  provechos 
Dejad  los  particulares ; 
Pues  vos  fizo  Dios  pilares 
De  tan  requisimos  techos, 
Estad  firmes  y  derechos. 

There  are  two  good  likenesses  of 
Charles  II.  and  his  queen  Mariana  of 
Neuberg,  by  Carreiio,  and  a  very  curious 
plan  of  Toledo  and  its  montes  drawn 
up  by  El  Grecco.  In  the  summer  Sala 
de  Sesiones  is  some  good  azulejo-work 
and  paintings  of  battles  between  Span- 
iards and  Flemings. 

ArcMepiscopal  Palace. — Close  to  the 
cathedral,  with  which  it  communicates 
through  a  covered  gallery.  It  is  modern, 
large,  and  indifferent,  the  former  palace 
of  the  13th  century  having  been  often 
and  completely  remodelled.  There  are 
some  good  artesonado  ceilings  in  the 
oldest  portion  of  it,  especially  in  the 
Salon  de  los  Concilios,  so  called  because 
many  of  these  were  held  here  after  the 
16th  century. 

Museo  frovincicti.  —  This  building 
occupies  portions  of  the  Cloisters  of 
San  Juan  de  los  Reyes ;  the  704  pic- 
tures of  which  it  consists  were  removed 
here  from  several  convents,  when  these 
were  suppressed,  though  the  best  were 
taken  to  the  Madrid  Picture-Gallery. 
Of  the  number  mentioned  there  are  not 
above  fifty-eight  which  are  either 
authenticated  or  ascribed  to  different 
painters  ;  all  the  rest,  and  most  of  the 
best,  are  nothing  but  daubs.  There  are 
a  few  that  deserve  attention ;  two  Ri- 
beras,  signed,  a  Morales,  and  others  by 
Orrente,  Ribalta,  Maella,  etc. ;  but  the 
school  of  Toledo  is  not  to  be  studied 


here,  but  in  the  cathedral,  churches,  and 
noblemen's  houses,  and  at  Madrid.  In 
this  large  room  was  the  cell  inhabited 
by  Cardinal  Cisneros. 

Biblioteoa  Publica.— -Opened  daily 
to  the  public,  from  9  a.m.  to  1  p.m.  It 
is  also  called  arzobispal,  and  is  situated 
in  the  lower  or  ground  floor  of  the 
Archbishop's  palace.  It  was  estab- 
lished under  Charles  III.  after  the  ex- 
pulsion of  the  Jesuits,  and  classified 
and  augmented  by  Cardinal  Lorenzana. 
It  contains  some  30,000  volumes,  never 
carefully  investigated,  and  of  value  ;  es- 
pecially in  theological  and  ecclesiastical 
history,  as  the  Jesuits'  libraries  scattered 
about  churches  and  colleges  at  Toledo 
formed  the  nucleus ;  there  are  many 
MSS.  of  early  Spanish  poetry ;  valuable 
editions  and  MSS.  of  Spanish  His- 
tory, and  upon  America.  There  is  a 
Museo  de  Antigiiedades,  interesting  to 
archaeologists,  containing  slabs  with 
inscriptions  in  Hebrew,  Arab,  Gothic, 
etc.,  a  good  collection  of  coins,  a  good 
portrait  of  the  historian  Mariana,  and 
a  fine  marble  bust  of  Juanelo  Turriano, 
the  Toledan  hydraulist,  but  a  native  of 
Italy,  by  Berruguete,  and  several  plans 
of  edifices,  etc.  There  is  also  a  good 
collection  of  Spanish  marbles,  plants, 
woods,  birds,  and  other  objects  of 
natural  history. 

Manufacture  of  Arms. — It  is  twenty 
minutes'  walk  from  the  town,  and  really 
not  worth  seeing,  unless  for  the  sake 
of  the  world-wide  celebrity  of  Toledo 
blades,  which  was  great  even  under  the 
Romans : — 

Ixna  toletano  praecingant  ilia  cultro. 

Abdur-rhaman  II.,  in  the  9th  cen- 
tury, raised  its  reputation  still  higher. 
The  swords,  poniards,  and  other  armes 
blanches,  were  manufactured  first  by 
independent  armourers,  who  subse- 
quently formed  a  powerful  guild,  *  Los 
armeros  de  Toledo.'    The  best  swordi 


464 


TOLEDO. 


date  from  the  16th  century  (see  for  de- 
tails, history,  etc,  General  Informa- 
tion :  Arms).  The  present  manufacture 
is  poor  even  as  a  museum,  and  it  is  not 
here  but  at  the  Madrid  armoury  that 
is  to  he  studied  the  admirable  work- 
manship of  the  Ortunoe,  Corrientes, 
Martinez,  Ruiz,  Luna,  Portalis,  Fer- 
nandez, etc  Here  are  produced, 
yearly,  some  8500  swords,  though 
in  some  years,  with  a  slight  demand, 
the  number  falls  to  1000.  The  most 
ever  obtained  has  been  12,000.  The 
steel  and  iron  come  mostly  from  Eng- 
land and  France,  and  the  workman- 
ship is  now  but  indifferent.  The'Tagus 
has  nothing  to  do  with  the  tempering,  as 
the  waters  used  are  brought  from  a 
welL  The  secret  lies,  or  lay  rather, 
with  the  armourer  and  his  process. 
The  '  espadas  de  rosea/  which  bend  and 
curl  up  like  a  Toledan  mazapan  in  a 
box,  are  a  curiosity,  and  are  worth 
from  1  to  4000rs.  ;  small  daggers  may 
be  purchased,  as  a  souvenir,  for  three  or 
four  dollars. 

Palacio  de  Galiana.  —  None  but 
antiquaries  and  lovers  of  the  past 
ought  to  visit  these  ruins,  more  re- 
markable for  associations  than  for  any 
intrinsic  merit ;  for  of  the  proud  palace 
of  the  Moorish  Infanta  we  see  now  but 
a  few  ruins  converted  into  a  stable,  a 
kitchen,  and  storehouse  Through  the 
smoke  some  horseshoe  arches,  and 
Arabic  inscriptions,  may  yet  be  guessed. 
The  tradition  about  it  is  poetical — 
'naive  au  possible,'  as  the  French 
would  say.  Galiana,  the  imaginary 
daughter  of  the  imaginary  Galafre, 
king  of  Toledo  —  her  courtship  by 
Charlemagne  (who  never  was  in  Tole- 
do), and  his  duel  with  the  giant  rival 
Bradamante  —  the  blind  love  of  the 
father  for  his  daughter,  and  the  fairy 
palace  he  built  for  her,  and  of  which 
these  are  ruins— such  are  the  principal 
features  of  this  legend,  which  may  be 


seen  and  studied  in  Duran's  '  Collection 

of    Romances,'    Gayangos'     'Moham. 

Dyn.'  yoL  ii.  p.  383.     In  the  'Ber- 

nardo '  of  Balbrunas,  Moratin,  and  the 

contemporary  Tomas,  Rod.  Rubi  (La 

Infanta  Galiana),   have   made  it  the 

subject  of  ballads,  dramas,  etc. 

Galiana  de  Toledo 
May  hermosa  &  maravilla 
La  mora  mas  celebrada 
De  toda  la  moreria. 

On  the  blackened  walls  are  traces  of 
Moorish  windows  and  designs  not  un- 
worthy of  the  Alhambra. 

Gates,  Bridges,  'Squares,  Streets, 
Prout-bits. — Toledo  is  a  shrine  of  me- 
difeval  art,  and  its  admirers  cannot  but 
perform  this  pilgrimage  with  all  fer- 
vour, and  visit  the  city  in  all  its  de- 
tails. 

The  Gates  are  not  the  least  pic- 
turesque characteristic  Puerto,  del 
Sol: — The  date  of  erection  is  not 
known,  but  it  was  doubtlessly  built  or 
rebuilt  by  the  Arabs.  The  pointed 
horseshoe  arch  forming  the  entrance 
is  flanked  by  two  high  turrets ;  one 
square  with  windows  and  built  up 
against  the  wall ;  the  other  circular 
and  in  an  angle.  The  entrance  arch 
is  more  pointed  than  the  second  inner 
one,  which  is  circular,  and,  like  the 
third,  seems  to  be  fast  assuming  a 
Gothic  character.  Over  the  first  arch 
runs  a  series  of  intersecting  brick  ar- 
cades, circular  and  pointed,  but  Moorish 
work  of  the  transition  j>eriod,  or  re- 
stored by  Castilians  not  long  after 
the  conquest  of  Toledo.  Over  the  se- 
cond arch  is  a  Virgin  with  various 
figures.  Within  is  a  rudely-executed 
basso-relievo,  representing  the  punish- 
ment of  an  Alguazil  mayor,  who  had 
outraged  two  ladies  ;  upon  which  Fer- 
ninand  III.  had  his  head  cut  off,  which 
is  seen  here  borne  on  a  dish.  Thfc 
gate,  with  its  warm  orange  tints,  that 


TOLEDO — GATE,  BRIDGES,  ETC. 


465 


contrast  so  admirably  with  the  lapis- 
lazuli  azure  of  the  cloudless  sky,  its 
battlement  fringing  the  top,  and  open- 
ing vistas  of  most  novel  aspect,  is  a 
treasure  for  an  artist.  Puerto,  de  Visa- 
c/ra. — The  side  of  the  city  towards  the 
Vega  is  the  only  one  not  well  defended 
by  nature,  a  defect  which  the  me- 
diaeval military  art  supplied  ;  and  about 
1102  Alfonso  VI.  enclosed  the  space 
left  open  between  the  two  bridges 
by  a  wall.  Three  gates  then  opened 
on  the  Vega ;  to  the  N.  Visagra ;  to 
the  E.  Almofalla,  and  to  the  W.  Bib- 
al-Makarah,  subsequently  Cambron. 
There  are  two  circum vacations.  We 
have  mentioned  the  one  made  by 
Alfonso,  which,  beginning  at  the 
Puente  de  Alcantara,  went  by  Las 
Covachuelas  to  Puerta  Lodada,  and 
joined  the  older  line  close  to  the  Lu- 
natic Asylum.  The  former,  or  older, 
was  built  by  Wamba,  and  began  also 
at  the  Alcantara  bridge,  then  followed 
by  the  gate  de  los  Doce  Cantos  to  the 
back  of  the  church  *  Del  Carmen  Cal- 
zado,1  to  gates  of  Sta.  Cruz  and  Cam- 
bron, and  finally  to  the  bridge  of  San 
Martin.  San  Cervantes,  the  Alcazar, 
and  the  bridges  and  gates,  constituted 
the  principal  defensive  works.  Puerta 
de  Visagra  (erroneously  derived  from 
Via  Sacra).— From  Bib-Shakrah,  Bed 
Gate,  or  Bib-Sharah,  Gate  of  the  Fields 
(El  Campo) ;  it  is  now  called  La  Puerta 
Lodada.  It  is  purely  Moorish,  and  of 
9th  century,  and  is  just  as  it  was  in 
837,  when  Hixem's  gory  head  dangled 
from  its  buttresses.  Its  principal  horse- 
shoe  arch  springs  from  heavy  pillars, 
leading  to  two  narrower  ones.  The 
second  is  of  a  very  narrow  passage  and 
winding,  an  habitual  military  precau- 
tion with  the  Moors.  The  New  Gate 
of  Visagra  was  built  in  1575  by  Philip 
II.  It  rises  between  two  cubo  towers, 
forming  a  large  arch,  over  which  are 
the  arms  and  eagle  of  Charles  V. ,  with 

2 


St.  Michael  and  other  statues  by  Ber- 
ruguete.  Inside  is  a  statue  of  San 
EugeniQ,  Bishop  of  Toledo. 

Torre  de  los  Abodes. — Here  (se  dice) 
Archbishop  Bernard  and  his  plucky 
abbots  fought  and  drove  away  the  be- 
sieging Moors,  for  in  those  ages  the 
Church  was  truly  militant,  and  gene- 
rally triumphant,  while  St  Michael 
fought  like  a  hero  at  the  Puerta  de 
Almagrera,  performing  as  great  a  bene- 
fit as  he  did  once  before  to  another 
friendly  army,  according  to  Scripture. 

Puerta  del  Cambron. — The  m  in  this 
name  is  to  be  carefully  pronounced,  to 
avoid  other  etymologies.  A  fine  Moor- 
ish horse-shoe  substituted  in  1576  for  a 
former  one  of  the  time  of  the  Goths, 
placed  somewhat  lower  and  called  Al- 
Makara.  Its  four  turrets  are  also  of 
the  16th  century,  and  the  image  of 
Sta.  Leocadia,  beautifully  executed  by 
Berruguete,  was  removed  to  the  Town- 
Hall  during  the  French  invasion,  but 
brought  back  again.  The  indifferent 
Puerta  Nueva  was  built  in  the  19th 
century  as  a  substitute  to  the  former 
gate  of  Almofalla. 

Bridge  of  Alcantara. — The  bridges 
of  Alcantara  and  San  Martin  were  built 
to  replace  two  earlier  ones,  in  the  13th 
and  14th  centuries.  The  former  Al- 
Kantarah  (Arabice,  a  bridge)  was  built 
by  Al-Manssour  in  997,  to  replace  one 
of  the  8th  century,  and  is  a  wonderful 
work.  It  was  fortified  by  Henrique  I., 
a.d.  1217,  who  erected  an  imposing 
tower  that  leads  to  the  city  by  three 
arches,  one  ogival,  and  the  others  of  the 
horse-shoe  form.  An  inundation  oc- 
curred in  1258,  after  which  it  was  en- 
tirely repaired,  not  to  say  rebuilt,  by 
Alfonso  el  Sabio  (not  the  wise  but  the 
learned — Sapiens,  savant), 

Puente  de  San  Martin. — The  central 
arch  is  95  ft.  high,  and  140  ft.  in  dia- 
meter. It  was  built  in  the  13th  cen- 
tury (1212).  According  to  legend*, 
H 


466 


TOLEDO — STREETS. 


the  architect,  as  it  was  about  to  be 
completed,  found,  as  many  others  have 
since  and  before  him,  that  his  edifice 
would  crumble  down  when  the  scaffold- 
ing should  be  removed,  owing  to  a  vice 
in  the  construction ;  upon  hearing 
which,  his  senora  one  night  set  fire  to 
it,  and  thus  saved  her  silly  lord  from 
discredit.  The  works  were  now  better 
carried  out,  which,  however,  did  not 
prevent  its  being  obliged  to  be  rebuilt 
in  1390  by  Archbishop  Tenorio.  The 
towers,  with  buttresses  at  the  extremi- 
ties, are  of  the  same  date,  though 
Moorish  in  shape.  The  original  Moorish 
one  was  built  by  the  Khalif  Mohammed 
in  the  middle  of  the  9th  century,  and 
situated  more  N.  than  the  present. 
There  are  a  few  machones  remaining, 
and  a  tower  on  the  city  side. 

On  the  river  side  here  is  a  Moorish 
alcoba,  or  arched  recessed  tower,  open 
on  the  four  sides  like  a  pavilion,  made 
of  briok.  The  ogive  and  horse-shoe 
are  seen  on  the  facades ;  it  is  called 
Los  BaHos  de  Florinda,  and  also  El 
Bafvo  de  la  Cava,  an  outrageous  epi- 
thet applied  to  the  daughter  of  Count 
Julian,  who,  legends  say,  was  seen 
bathing  here  by  King  Rodrigo ;  a 
tableau  too  vivant,  which  cost  him  his 
throne. 

The  Streets  of  Toledo  are  very 
narrow  and  ill  paved,  and  generally 
wanting  in  character ;  the  shops  most 
indifferent.  N.B. — About  Christmas 
time  the  confiterias  are  decked  out 
with  all  the  unpalatable  dainties, 
manjares  and  pastas,  of  that  season  of 
jollification,  aguinaldos,  and  indiges- 
tions. Toledo  is  celebrated  for  its 
inazapanes,  a  heavy  pasty  compound 
made  of  almonds,  burnt  sugar,  etc., 
and  made  to  assume  the  most  fantastic 
shapes  of  serpents,  fishes,  horses,  saints. 
These  are  placed  in  boxes  and  deco- 
rated with  arabesques  in  gilt  paper,  red 
•ilk,   yellow  wool,  etc.      If  digestion 


is  the  conscience  of  a  good  stomach, 
pray  eat  only  with  your  eyes — the  sight 
of  churrigueresque  pastry  will  be  enough 
to  satisfy  you :  the  apricots  are  better 
things,  and  we  recommend  them  as 
deserving  at  least  one-fourth  of  their 
reputation.  The  principal  street  is 
that  leading  from  the  Zocodover  to  the 
cathedral. 

The  Zocodover  is  a  Moorish  square, 
so  called  from  Zoko,  Arabic^,  Thurs- 
day, on  which  day  cattle-markets  were 
held,  and  are  held  still  in  Morocco. 
The  Christians  continued  to  hold 
a  mercado  here,  which  was  franco— 
that  is,  exempted  from  taxes.  The 
Zocodover  was  a  most  picturesque 
spot  in  the  15th  and  16th  centuries, 
the  rendezvous  of  soldiers  out  of  work, 
of  well-doing  banditti,  of  traders  in 
silks  and  stuffs  from  all  parts  of  the 
world ;  it  was  the  former  Puerta  del 
Sol  of  Madrid,  the  Moorish  Vibarrambla 
of  Granada,  the  Perchel  of  Malaga,  the 
Potro  of  Seville,  etc.  Now  there  are 
but  commonplace  houses,  a  few  squalid 
consumptive  trees,  and  silent  groups  of 
prosaic  blackguards  and  oily-skinned, 
yellow-thumbed,  threadbare  shopkeep- 
ers. In  the  evening  it  is  resorted  to 
by  lounging,  yawning,  hands-in-the- 
pocket  amerengado  senoritos,  as  cursi 
almost  as  the  word  is  itself,  and  good 
honest  Toledanos  settling  the  affairs 
of  the  world,  which  they  see  through 
the  smoke  of  their  papelitos. 

Private  Houses. — Many  of  the 
houses  of  the  old  nobility  have  re- 
tained their  peculiar  characteristics; 
they  generally  belong  to  the  15th  and 
16th  centuries,  and  partake  of  the- 
Moorish  style  and  plateresque.  The 
house-portals,  the  projecting  door- 
posts, the  cannon-ball  {la  bold)  orna- 
ment, the  soffits  and  lintels,  deserve 
close  attention.     Visit  first  of  all  the 

Casa  de  Mesa,  opposite  to  the  Church 
of   San    Roman.       This    house    was 


TOLEDO — LUNATIC  ASYLUM. 


46? 


built  aftei  the  conquest  by  Esteban 
Ulan  ;  though  a  shadow  now  of  what  it 
was,  the  saloon  shown  to  visitors  is 
still  admirable,  and  is  60  ft.  long  by  22 
ft.  wide,  and  36  ft.  high.  The  walls 
are  covered  with  exquisite  stucco  lace- 
like tracery  of  varied  patterns.  The  roof 
is  a  beautiful  artesonado ;  at  one  end 
is  a  fine  agimez  window,  Moorish  in 
form  but  with  almost  Gothic  details ; 
the  alcoba  is  also  elegant. 

Taller  del  Moro. — In  the  Calle  del 
Moro,  S.W.  of  the  town,  so  called  be- 
cause it  was  turned  into  a  workshop 
for  the  cathedral  It  was  built  by  a 
wealthy  Moor,  and  belongs  to  the  third 
period  of  Moro-Andalusian  architecture. 
What  remains  forms  an  oblong  square, 
with  three  rooms.  The  saloon  is  54  ft. 
long  by  23  ft.,  richly  decorated  with 
stucco-work.  It  has  been  sadly  ne- 
glected ;  the  other  tworooms  are  equally 
curious  and  fine.  It  is  a  fine  example 
of  Christian  artists  imitating  Moorish 
art.  The  Gothic  portal  was  added  by 
Cardinal  Mendoza. 

Las  Tornerias. — Moorish  also  ;  early 
style.  There  are  houses  also  close  to 
San  Miguel ;  one  towards  the  W.  of 
this  church  bears  several  inscriptions 
that  have  been  translated  by  Sr.  Gay- 
angos ;  the  one  over  the  door  runs 
thus  :  '  May  riches,  plenty,  and  perfect 
security  fall  to  the  lot  of  the  owner  of 
this  mansion, '  etc.  We  shall  mention 
also  those  of  the  Toledos,  an  illustrious 
family,  close  to  Ayuntamiento ;  of 
Conde.  de  Fuensalida,  Munarriz,  del 
Temple,  de  D.  Diego  or  Corral,  etc. 
The  palace  of  Cardinal  Ximenes  was 
behind  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes  ;  that  of 
Samuel  Levi,  whom  the  Jews  called 
'  Gran  Fabricador  y  en  todos  los  pueblos 
poderoso,'  was  in  the  Jewry,  and  be- 
came after  his  time  the  palace  of  the 
mediaeval  necromancer,  D.  Enrique  de 
Villena.  It  is  now  abandoned  to  the 
wind,  the  bat,  and  the  rain  ;  and  is  un- 


dermined by  subterraneous  caves,  in- 
habited by  doubtful  paupers.  There 
are  also  vestiges  of  good  Moorish  and 
Mauresque  work  about  the  steeples  of 
Santa  Magdalena,  S.  Torcuato,  S. 
Marcos,  S.  Miguel,  S.  Justo,  S.  Juan, 
etc.,  and  the  house  No.  6  in  Calle  de  la 
Plata,  which  latter  is  well  worth  a 
visit. 

The  Palace  of  the  Gothic  Kings  was, 
it  is  conjectured,  situated  close  to  and 
overhanging  the  Tagus,  towards  the 
Bridge  of  San  Martin  ;  but  the  tower 
and  supposed  ruins  of  it  belong  to  the 
former  bridge  already  mentioned. 

The  Lunatic  Asylum,  Casa  del  Nun- 
cio, is  a  modern  construction,  built  on 
a  site  of  a  former  establishment  for  the 
same  purpose,  which  was  erected  in 
the  end  of  the  15th  century  b}r  a  Toledan 
canon,  Francisco  Ortiz,  who  was  Pope's 
nuncio.  The  present  house  was  built 
by  Cardinal  Lorenzana  as  a  substitute 
for  the  former,  which  is  the  one  men- 
tioned in  Don  Quixote,  and  is  placed 
in  another  part  of  the  town,  and  now 
belongs  to  a  private  person.  It  is  veiy 
well  conducted  —  on  principles  of 
humanity  and  order,  though  not  per- 
haps according  to  the  best  methods 
used  in  Germany  and  England.* 

*  Madness  is  not  a  malady  of  Spain,  where 
the  brain  is  seldom  troubled,  and  where  specu- 
lation, ambition,  political  passions,  effervesce 
like  champagne  and  then  collapse.  There 
are  only  about  5000  ascertained  lunatics  in 
the  whole  of  Spain,  about  one -third  of  the 
number  being  females.  The  provinces  that 
furnish  the  most  are  Valencia,  Zaragoza,  Gra- 
nada, Madrid,  Barcelona ;  and  the  least,  Lugo 
(only  2 !),  Orense,  Canary  Islands ;  and  patho- 
logically examined  the  percentage  is  ; — Maniac 
exaltation,  31.91  ;  monomaniacs,  xx  ;  melan- 
choly, 6;  derangement  of  mental  faculties, 
20.53  1  imbecility,  6.15  ;  epileptic  madness,  11 ; 
undetermined,  10.41.  The  most  usual  causes 
are:  love  (jealousy*  sorrow,  disappointment, 
etc.) ;  physical  disorders,  ill  attended,  especially 
in  females;  politics  (ambition,  the  press,  revo> 
lutions,  etc.) ;  speculation,  money,  etc.,  very 
scarce.     Now  the  proportion  with  other  coun* 


468 


TOLEDO — EXCURSIONS. 


Prout-bits. — The  Cave  of  Hercules 
will  tempt  all  lovers  of  the  marvellous. 
The  entrance,  now  walled  up,  is  In  the 
Church  de  San  Gines.  It  is  said  to 
extend  three  leagues  beyond  the  Ta- 
gus, and  is  full  of  chapels  (se  dice)  and 
marvels  of  Roman  art ;  but  woe  to  the 
explorer — rushing  sounds  are  heard, 
etc.,  spectres  seen,  and  Roderik  him- 
self on  venturing  within  almost  died  of 
it.  (Southey,  W.  Irving,  'Leg.  of 
Conq.  of  Spain/  pp.  160-14.)  The  fact 
is,  that  it  has  never  been  visited  as  it 
may  deserve,  and  those  that  will  do  so 
may  meet  with  some  interesting  relics 
of  the  past,  such  as  have  been  found  at 
Guarrazar  (see  Madrid  :  Armoury). 

Promenades. — The  Paseo  de  las 
Rosas  and  Alameda  are  pretty  and  the 
views  fine.  The  statues  of  Wamba, 
etc.,  are  all  modern.  Outside  the 
city,  under  its  walls,  are  the  ruins  of  its 
Roman  amphitheatre  and  Naumachia, 
the  circuit  of  which  can  with  difficulty 
be  made  out  (about  1040  ft.  long  by 
330  ft.  wide),  and  the  ruins  are  indif- 
ferent and  few.  On  the  hills  are  the 
Toledan  villas,  with  orchards  and  no- 
rias  called  here  artes.  The  villas  are 
called  Cigarrales,  from  the  Arabic 
Zigarr,  *  a  place  of  trees  ; '  some  derive 
it  from  Guijarro  ;  Pisa  says  it  is  syno- 
nymous with  Pizarrales.  They  are  en- 
closed with  a  stone  wall,  and  formed  by 
a  few  straight  walks,  with  olive  and 

tries  is  this,  according  to  Esquirol,  '  MeMecine 
des  Passions : '  London,  i  to  200  inhabitants : 
Paris,  1  in  every  222;  Cairo,  1  to  23.571  ;  and 
Madrid,  1  to  3.350.  It  is  besides  to  be  remem- 
bered that  lunacy  is  not  well  understood  in 
Spain,  and  that  many  patients  placed  in  these 
establishments  are,  moreover,  persons  guilty  of 
murder  and  other  crimes,  but  often  removed 
here  through  a  certificate  of  a  short-sighted 
doctor,  *  que  hace  la  vista  gorda ; '  and  the  song 
Is  right  which  says : — 

Un  loquito  del  hospicio 
Me  dijo  en  una  occasion, 
Ni  son  todos  los  que  estan, 
Ni  estan  todos  los  que  son. 


almond  trees,  and  a  small  indifferent 
house  in  the  middle. 

Excursions,  very  tempting  to  architects  and 
sketchers,  can  be  made  along  the  banks  of  the 
Tagus  and  the  hilly  slopes  of  the  Montes  de 
Toledo,  Sierra  del  Duque,  etc.  We  advise 
tourists  so  disposed  to  obtain  accurate  infor- 
mation respecting  the  state  of  the  roads,  and 
especially  if  the  country  be  free  of  rateros, 
banditti,  etc.,  for  these  montes  have  swarmed 
with  them,  and  amateurs  now  and  then  continue 
to  fill  up  the  '  Gacetilla  de  la  capital '  with  ex- 
ploits, most  of  which  are  reduced  to  carrying 
the  unguarded  passenger  to  the  mountains  and 
asking  for  a  ransom.  Visit,  if  possible,  the 
most  picturesque  old  castles  of  Montalban, 
Torrijos,  Mora,  Almonacid,  Orgaz.  All  this 
part  of  Spain,  with  its  wild  scenery,  traditions, 
legends,  historical  associations,  and  intrinsic 
artistical  merit,  has  never  been  properly  inves- 
tigated ;  study  it  well  before  leaving  Toledo ; 
procure  letters  of  recommendation  for  the  ad- 
ministradores  of  these  real  '  Chateaux  en  Es- 
pagne  ; '  attend  to  the  provender,  and  obtain  a 
guide  well  acquainted  with  the  localities.  The 
angler  need  not  be  idle,  as  the  Tagus  is  'pis- 
cosus,'  even  according  to  Strabo  and  Martial ; 
and  there  is  good  shooting  in  the  montes. 
N.B. — The  caza  mayor  in  the  country  lying 
around  Toledo,  towards  Ciudad  Real,  Caceres 
and  Talavera  is  not  to  be  despised,  and  keen 
sportsmen  who  do  not  object  to  roughing  it 
would  do  well  to  make  up  partidas  in  the 
ancient  and  grim  city.  We  have  seen,  in 
the  old  days,  fifty  or  seventy  head  laid  low 
in  the  season.*  The  Tagus  itself,  whose  very 
name  is  poetry,  will  not  fail  to  awaken  interest 
Is  the  Tagus  navigable  ?  Could  it  not  connect 
Madrid  and  Lisbon?  In  1581,  two*  Italians, 
Antonelli  of  Naples,  and  Juanelo  Turriano  of 
Cremona,  a  friend  of  Charles  V.,  whom  he  ac- 
companied to  Yuste,  proposed  a  scheme  to 
Philip  II.,  which,  through  want  of  funds,  was 
overlooked  ;  but,  according  to  a  memoir  written 
by  the  minister,  Lopez  Ballosteros,  by  order  of 
Ferdinand  VII.,  the  Tagus  was  navigable  in 
1581  from  Toledo  to  Lisbon ;  and  troops  were 
sent  to  Lisbon  from  Herrera  by  tugging— a 
system  adopted  and  improved  by  that  same 
Antonelli.  In  1755,  at  the  instigation  of  the 
minister,  Richard  Wall  (an  Irishman),  Simon 
Portero  repeated  the  same  tour.  In  1829,  an 
engineer,  Agustin  Marco  Artes,  went  by  water 
to  Lisbon  ;  left  April  8, 1828,  arrived  on  May  17, 
and  returned  in  thirty-eight  days,  performing 
the  journey  in  a  small  boat  with  a  lateen  sail 
The  schemes  and  trials  have  ended  here ;  and 
the  various  railroads  in  the  district  have  put  an 


VALENCIA. 


469 


end  to  further  projects.  Turriano  raised  the 
water  of  the  Tagus  to  the  Alcazar  by  means  of 
a  roost  ingenious  machine  called  a  reloj  (clock), 
and  of  which  there  are  vestiges  still  opposite  to 
San  Cervantes.  The  illustrious  engineer  was 
promised  a  large  reward  before  the  scheme 
succeeded,  and  obtained  next  to  nothing  after 
its  success. 

Books  of  Reference. — i.  '  Toledo  pintoresca,' 
etc.,  by  Amador  de  los  Rios ;  Madrid,  Boin, 
1845,  with  woodcuts.  Very  interesting,  espe- 
cially with  respect  to  Spanish  architecture. 

a.  'Album  artistico  de  Toledo,'  by  M  de 
Assas,  with  prints  ;  Madrid,  1848,  fol.  An  ex- 
cellent work,  exhibiting  great  erudition  and 
judgment  The  Arabic  inscriptions  are  most 
accurate,  and  the  work,  we  believe,  of  Sr.Gay- 
angos. 

3.  '  Toledo  en  la  Mano,'  by  Parro  ;  Toledo  , 
Fando,  1857,  2  vols.,  and  a  handy  abridged 
new  edition.    Excellent  and  reliable. 

4.  '  Summi  Templi  Toletani  perquam graphica 
Descriptio,'  etc.,  by  Ortiz.  (Bib.  of  Escurial, 
C.  iv.  14.) 

5.  '  Explicacion  de  la  Inscripcion  G<5tica  de 
la  Lapida  de  Consagracion,'  of  the  Cathedral, 


by  Palomares,  MS.  Acad.  Hist,  vol.  iii.  of 
'  varios  tratados '  on  the  chronology  of  Spall. 
Read  to  this  Academy,  and  showing  that  it 
means  *^ra  DCXXV.'  {i.e.  587),  and  not  'Era 
DCXXX.'  eta,  as  some  have  asserted. 

6.  'De  toletano  Hebraeorum  Templo,'  by 
Bayerio,  MS.  in  Acad.  Hist.  (X.  186).  Con- 
tains the  full  description  of  El  Transito. 

For  a  good  contemporary  account  of  the  In- 
quisition at  Toledo,  see  the  '  Boletin  de  la  Real 
Academia  de  la  Historia,'  October,  1887.  For 
the  legends  of  Toledo  see  'Becquer's  Tales.' 

The  best  works  on  the  Jews  of  Toledo  are 
those  of  Amador  de  los  Rios,  Adolfo  de  Castro 
(Cadiz,  1847).  The  latter  has  been  translated 
into  English  by  F.  Kirwan.  There  are  also 
some  works  on  the  subject  written  by  James 
Finn,  1841,  and  by  E.  H.  Lindo,  8vo,  London, 
1848. 

On  the  Gothic  ritual. — The  original  Gothic 
ritual  was  printed  at  Alcala  de  Henares,  1500, 
by  order  of  Cardinal  Ximenes;  reprinted  by 
Cardinal  Lorenzana,  in  1770,  in  Mexico,  with 
a  second  edition  at  Rome,  1785-1804 ;  also  in 
tomes  851  86  of  Migne's  'Patrologiae  Cursus'; 
Paris,  1850. 


VALENCIA  (The  Kingdom  of). 


Geographical  and  Administrative 
Divisions,  Rivers,  etc.— This  former 
Reino  de  Valencia  consisted  of  some 
611  square  leagues,  and  now  forms 
three  provinces,  each  separately  go- 
verned, but  all  under  the  military  au- 
thority of  the  Capitan-General  of  Va- 
lencia. It  occupies  all  the  S.E.  portion 
of  Spain,  extending  from  the  Cenia 
(river),  on  the  frontiers  of  Cataluna, 
to  the  Tower  de  La  Haradada,  the 
limits  of  the  kingdom  of  Murcia,  on 
the  Mediterranean.  Population  of 
provinces  (1884) :— Valencia,  677,890  ; 
Alicante,  420,000  ;  Castellon,  289,000  ; 
in  all,  1,386,890.  The  first  is  now  289 
square  leagues ;  the  second,  164 ;  the 
third  and  last,  158.  Most  of  it  consists 
of  hills,  the  table-lands  occupying  only 
an  extent  of  240  square  leagues.  The 
principal  rivers  are,  the  Turia,  or  Gua- 
dalaviar,  which  flows  down  from  the 
mountains  of  Teruel  and  Albaraein; 


the  Jucar ;  from  the  same  hills,  the 
Albaida,  Alcoy,  Juanes,  which  inter- 
sect it  from  W.  to  E. ;  the  Mijares  and 
Palancia,  Cenia,  etc.  It  is  bounded  to 
the  N.  by  the  range  of  mountains 
which  rise  and  extend  like  a  barrier — 
viz.  Sierra  Molina,  Muela  de  Ares, 
which  separate  it  from  Cataluna ;  to 
the  E.  by  the  Mediterranean ;  W.  by 
the  Guadalaviar,  Cuenca  ;  S.  by  Sierra 
Mayor  and  Murcia.  The  highest 
mountains  are  the  Sierra  Picochera  to 
W.,  and  the  Ayora  and  Bujaron  ranges 
to  S.W. 

History. — The  history  of  the  pro- 
vince is  that  of  its  capital ;  Cartha- 
ginians, Romans,  Goths,  and  Moors, 
have  in  succession  possessed  this  fair 
kingdom,  the  brightest  pearl  in  the 
diadem  of  the  Queen  of  Spain  ;  and 
although  it  derived  benefits  from  each, 
it  is  especially  the  offspring  of  the  Moor, 
who  loved  it,  and  lavished  on  it  his 


470 


VALENCIA. 


gold  and  blood.  Under  the  Moslem  rule 
Valencia  became  the  garden  of  Spain, 
and  here  the  Moors  placed  their  paradise, 
and  called  its  capital  Medinah-Tu-Tarab, 
the  City  of  Mirth.  Its  riches,  consisting 
of  those  of  the  soil,  natural  and  inex- 
haustible, as  well  as  those  accumulated 
by  generations  of  wealthy  rulers,  and  an 
enterprising  predatory  people,  tempted 
the  Christian ;  and  his  faith — we  shall 
more  simply  call  it  oovetousness — ex- 
hausted all  the  means  within  its  Teach 
to  wrest  such  treasures  from  the  ab- 
horred infidel.  The  Cid  was  called  to 
intervene  in  domestic  feuds  and  internal 
dissensions,  and  in  1095  the  kingdom 
became  his.  It  was  subsequently  an- 
nexed to  Aragon,  and  was  finally 
merged  in  the  crown  of  Castile  and  of 
Spain.  This  province  suffered  very 
considerably  at  the  hands  of  Philip  V., 
whose  cause  it  would  not  espouse,  and 
of  the  French,  during  the  Peninsular 
War.  The  principal  dates  of  its  history 
are : — 

Foundation  of  Valencia  by  Junius  Brutus, 
136  B.C.    (See  page  48a.) 

Gothic  rule  established,  413  a.c. 

Conquest  of  the  Moors  under  Abdu-l'-Aziz, 
712,  when  it  formed  part  of  the  Umraeyah  Kha- 
lifate  of  Cordoba. 

Became  an  independent  Moorish  kingdom, 
in  X056. 

Capture  of  Valencia  by  the  Cid,  1094-5. 

Independent  kingdom  ruled  by  the  Cid,  and 
his  death  here,  1099. 

Conquest  of  Valencia  by  Jaime  I.  of  Aragon, 
Sept  28,  1228  (or  1239). 

Annexation  to  crowns  of  Castile  and  Aragon, 
1 6th  century. 

Expulsion  ol  the  Moors,  and  first  death-blow 
to  its  prosperity,  1610. 

Philip  V.  and  the  War  of  Succession,  1718. 

Surrender  of  the  capital  to  Suchet,  1812. 

Evacuation  by  the  French,  1813. 

Character,  Dress,  Customs The 

'  Valencianets,'  as  they  call  themselves, 
apeak  a  sort  of  Limousin  dialect,  the  old 
Langue  d'Oc,  which  Don  Jaime  intro- 
duced from  Cataluna.  The  pronuncia- 
tion and  meaning  of  some  words  differ 


from  that  spoken  in  the  Principado,  and 
the  softer,  more  harmonious  termina- 
tions used  here  indicate  the  proximity 
of  Andalusia — heat — and  greater  leisure. 
The  principal  features  of  character  are, 
superstition  ;  revengeful,  relentless 
spirit,  ni  olvido  ni  perd&no;  love  of 
pleasure,  dancing,  love-making,  sipping 
the  delicious  cool  horchata  de  chufas,  a 
local  drink.  The  people  are  laborious, 
persevering,  generally  honest ;  fond  of 
bright  colours  and  pomp ;  in  violent 
love  or  hatred,  sullen  and  miultusiful. 
Crime,  arising  from  jealousy,  envy, 
family  dissension,  and  tavern  brawls,  is 
frequent,  and  attended  with  hyena-like 
fierceness.  The  escopeta  and  trabuco 
are  used  with  wonderful  precision  by 
the  labourers,  who  seldom  go  without 
one,  as  ultima  ratio,  or  timely  adver- 
tisements about  wages,  and  mere  trifles. 
They  are  withal  lively,  imaginative, 
very  intelligent,  enterprising,  and  the 
upper  classes  most  polished  and  agree- 
able, of  unbounded  charity  and  gene- 
rosity. The  darker  shades  of  their 
character  would  be  considerably  bright- 
ened up  by  interior  enlightenment,  as 
all  is  night  still  in  their  minds ;  and 
education  would  correct  and  refine  the 
conditions  of  their  fine,  nervous  tem- 
perament, excited  and  irritated  as  it  is 
by  a  burning  sun,  and  perfectly  un- 
checked. To  the  stranger  they  are 
affable,  kind-hearted,  and  have  pride  in 
showing  off  their  cities,  their  huerta, 
their  dress,  and  even  their  expeditious 
way  of  suppressing  their  intimate  ene- 
mies. In  a  word,  as  the  Goth  explains 
the  Asturian,  and  the  Celtiberian  the 
Basque,  the  key  to  the  character  of  this 
strange  and  poetical  people  must  be 
sought  in  the  East  As  to  their  physical 
appearance,  they  are  tall,  manly,  statu- 
esque, wiry  j  indefatigable  walkers,  dark 
complexioned,  with  fiery  black  eyes, 
ivory  teeth,  and  an  expression  of  mo- 
bility natural  to  their  constantly  ex* 


VALENCIA. 


471 


cited,  nervous  temperament.  The  wo- 
men are  a  complete  contrast  to  the  men, 
and  are  bionde  e  grassotte,  like  the 
Venetians.  They  are  admirably  formed, . 
but  rather  inclined  to  enbonpoint,  with 
a  melancholy  smile  on  their  mouths, 
and  a  soft  vacant  gaze.  They  go  little 
abroad ;  practising  the  Moro-Castilian 
'  Cada  uno  en  su  casa  y  Dios  en  la  de 
todos,'  only  sallying  out  in  the  morn- 
ings to  shop,  correr  tiehdas,  and  to  mass. 
They  are  fond  of  dress,  which  is  very 
picturesque  and  Eastern,  and  wear  their 
beautiful  hair  in  all  sorts  of  fantastical 
shapes — mostly  pleasing  and  becoming. 
The  dress  of  the  men  consists  of  a  richly- 
embroidered  velvet  jacket,  or  rather 
waistcoat, with  open  short  sleeves  and  fili- 
gree buttons  ;  worn  more  especially  on 
holidays ;  then  come  white  linen  drawers, 
or  kilts,  very  wide,  loose  and  folded,  and 
called  with  an  Arabic  name  (Sarahuells). 
Their  legs  are  generally  naked,  admirably 
formed,  sinewy,  and  black  as  the  Hin- 
doos'. Sometimes  they  wear  stockings 
without  feet,  or  hempen  sandals  (espar- 
dinyes),  tied  up  with  blue  coloured 
strings ;  a  purple,  black,  or  red  silken 
sash ;  the  many-coloured  manta,  thrown 
over  the  shoulder  ;  and  the  gay  yellow 
and  red  kerchief  binding  the  head  like 
a  turban,  showing  the  long  hair  in  the 
upper  portion  of  the  head,  complete  the 
costume,  and  voto  A  Deu,  who  will  find 
fault  with  it  ?  The  women  wear  a  short 
boddice,  silk  or  cotton,  according  to  the 
means ;  a  velvet  jacket,  and  a  silken 
kerchief  earned  over  their  heads ;  the 
roll  of  hair  is  pierced  with  a  silver-gilt 
pin,  with  knobs,  called  Arilla  de  rodete 
(literally  in  Catalan,  wheel-pin),  and  a 
very  high  silver-gilt  comb,  called  pin- 
teta,  now  worn  lower  than  it  used  to  be 
formerly.  Jewels  (joyas)  are  also  pro- 
fusely worn,  and  are  mostly  heirlooms 
handed  down  from  mother  to  daughters, 
and  dating  from  the  earliest  times  of 
the  discovery  of  America.     The  forms 


are  most  classical,  and  the  stones,  eme- 
ralds, and  amethysts,  often  large  and 
fine,  but  seldom  cut.  Several  charms 
are  also  worn,  such  as  small  silver  images 
of  local  saints,  and  of  the  great  local 
patroness,  Nuestra  Senora  de  Desam- 
parados,  a  silver  filigree  cross,  etc.  The 
popular  holidays  and  festivities  are 
mostly  religious,  and  the  Corpus,  Holy 
Week,  Dia  de  San  Vicente  Ferrer,  the 
tutelar  of  Valencia,  etc.,  are  very  well 
worth  seeing,  as  spectacles  of  a  bygone 
race  and  age. 

Agriculture,  Mines,  Trade. — The 
Huerta  of  Valencia  presents,  with  the 
Vega  of  Granada,  the  spectacle,  unique 
in  Europe,  of  the  most  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion of  the  tropics,  and  of  almost  incre- 
dible fertility ;  the  hortelanos  have 
wisely  followed,  and  practise  to  this 
day,  the  maxims  and  methods  be- 
queathed to  them  by  the  great  hydrau- 
list  Moors.  This  wonderful  plain  is 
covered  with  a  net-work  of  canals  and 
aqueducts,  Sangrias,  acequias,  regueras, 
with  norias  or  water-wheels,  the  distri- 
bution of  water  (liquid  gold  here)  being 
subjected  to  strict  regulations  emanat- 
ing from  the  Tribunal  de  las  Aguas. 
(See  General  Information:  Agriculture.) 
Thus  irrigated,  vivified  by  a  tropical 
sun,  an  everlasting  summer,  and  thickly 
manured  (often  with  guano,  of  which 
over  20,000  tons  per  annum  are  used),  the 
soil  yields  four,  five,  and  six  crops  in  suc- 
cession. The  alfalfa  (lucerne)  is  mowed 
fourteen  or  seventeen  times ;  the  orange 
(the  most  important  tree  here),  the  rice, 
the  melon,  mulberry,  grow  in  enormous 
numbers  ;  corn,  maize,  are  admirable. 
Cochineal  is  successfully  reared  on  no- 
pals, and  cotton  would  succeed  wonder- 
fully were  it  seriously  tried.  There  are 
some  manufactures,  especially  of  silks, 
velvets,  cloths,  cigars,  glass,  azulejos, 
tinctures,  spirits,  etc.  The  mines  are 
rare,  and  of  little  importance  ;  quick- 
silver, copper,  lead,  and  in  the  moun- 


472 


VALENCIA. 


tains,  marbles,  coal,  and  alabaster. 
There  is  some  trade,  especially  with 
England,  in  fruit,  silks,  rice,  etc.,  and 
there  are  signs  everywhere  of  rapidly- 
increasing  prosperity  and  wealth.  Some 
excellent  wines  are  produced,  which  call 
loudly  for  more  improved  processes, 
which  would  fit  them  for  exportation  ; 
such  are  those  of  Alicante,  Fondillol, 
Benicarlo*,  La  Torre,  and  a  hundred 
others.  The  national  dish  of  the  coun- 
try is  polio  con  arroz,  or  arroz  a  la  Va- 
lenciana,  chickens  stewed  with  rice, 
sausages,  pimientos  (red  peppers),  cho- 
rizos,  ham.  It  is  most  savoury,  whole- 
some, and  belongs  to  the  positivist,  not 
poetical,  school  of  gastronomy,  whose 
adepts,  according  to  Brillat-Savarin,  eat 
to  live,  and  do  not  live  to  eat.  The 
great  culinary  oracle  also  said — 

La  bete  se  nourrit.     L'homme  mange. 
Lliomme  d'esprit  seul  sait  diner. 

The  gazpacho  is  another  favourite 
dish.  But  fruits  are  considerably  eaten, 
and  with  a  melon,  a  Valencian  eats, 
drinks,  and  washes  his  face  and  hands. 
For  a  towel  he  uses  his  manta,  that 
which  also  serves  as  cloak,  towel,  bag, 
and  horse-cloth,  all  in  common. 

Boutes,  Climate,  etc. — The  climate 
is  generally  delicious,  though  variable, 
and  well  suited  to  invalids.  Fevers, 
tercianas,  are  of  frequent  occurrence  in 
the  vicinity  of  marshes  and  irrigated 
lands.  Mortality  is  great  among  the 
labourers  who  are  employed  in  such 
districts  as  about  Oropesa,  the  Jucar, 
etc. ;  but  in  the  rest  of  the  reino  the 
atmosphere  is  balmy,  very  soft  and 
mild,  and  considered  very  superior  to 
that  of  Italy.  The  cities  are  dull  and 
devoid  of  interest,  with  the  exception 
of  Valencia,  which  is  a  clean,  social, 
and  polished  city,  containing  numerous 
fine  works  of  art.  In  its  neighbourhood 
also  are  the  ruins  of  Murviedro.  It 
must  not  be  forgotten  that  this  is  the 
native  land  of  Luis  Vives,  called  the 


Spanish  Bacon,  of  the  Gavanilles,  Mas- 
deu,  Sempere,  and  other  critics  of  note ; 
of  the  painters,  Juanes,  Kibalta,  Ribera, 
Espinosa,   Orrente,  and    March,   only 
equalled  by  the  schools  of  Seville  and 
Madrid  ;  of  the  printers,  Mallen,  Cabre- 
rizo,   Salva,   etc.;    of  the  dramatists, 
Guillen  de  Castro  ;  of  the  poets,  Virues, 
Factor ;  of  Gil  Polo,  Mosen  T.  Juan 
Jardi,  of  the  great  engraver  Esteve ;  of 
the  military  worthies,  Nicolas  de  Pro- 
cida,  Boil,  Moncada,  etc.    The  roads 
are  good,  secure,  and  well  kept,  and 
railways  are  springing  up  everywhere. 
The  principal  interest  in  the  kingdom 
is  in  connection  with  the  novel  luxuri- 
ant vegetation  of  some  districts ;  the 
dress,  or  rather  absence  of  any,  of  the 
peasantry,  who  remind  us  of  Albanian 
peasants,  etc.     The  places  deserving  of 
a  visit  are  Elche,  a  city  of  palms  ;  Ja- 
tiva,  Carcagente,  and  their  forests  of 
orange-trees  ;  and  the  Albufera,  for  its 
capital  shooting  and  fishing  (see  Va- 
lencia).     Every  season  is    favourable, 
save  the  summer,  when  the  heat  is  in- 
supportable, even  by  the  sea-side.    It 
is  a  region  of  Spain  which,  from  its 
many  attractive  features  of  sky,  dress, 
etc.,  proves  very  engaging  to  the  artist. 
The  extraordinary  atmosphere  of  golden 
light,  the  purple  morado,  the  tint  of  the 
mulberry  (which  colour  the  clouds  at 
sunset),  and  the  rich,  warm,  red  browns 
of  the  Huerta,  Kibalta,  Espinosa,  and 
other  painters  of  the  Valencian  school, 
were  fond  of  transferring  to  their  can- 
vas.    Objects  under  this  fogless  clear 
sky  come  out  with  great  relief,  whilst 
the  vaporous,   hazy  atmosphere  often 
thrown  over  Spanish  views  by  English 
painters  veils  details  which  impart  cha- 
racter to  the  whole. 


I  St. 


Routes. 


2d. 


Valencia  to  Alicante, 

s.   rail. 
Elche,  rail. 
Orihuela,  rail. 
Idurcia,  rail 


Valencia  to  Liria,  rail. 
Segorbe,  r. 
Alcira,  r.        \ 
Albocacer,  r.  V  small  <f 
Morella,  r.     ) 


VALENCIA — ROUTES. 


473 


zst. 
Alraansa,  rail. 
Alcira,  rail. 
Valencia,  rail. 
(In  a  week.) 


Routes.  2d. 

Tortosa,  d. 
Vinaroz,  rail. 
Benicarld,  rail. 
Castellon,  rail. 
Sagunto,  rail. 
Valencia,  rail. 
(In  a  week.) 


Valencia. — Capital  of  province  of 
same  name ;  bishop's  see,  Primate  of 
Spain— population,  about  170,000 ;  a 
seaport. 

Routes  and  Conveyances.  —  1. 
From  Barcelona  by  rail 
throughout,  vid  Martorell 
and  Tarragona,  mostly  a 
fine  coast  route.  Two  trains,  per  day. 
Barcelona  to  Tarragona,  dist.,  107  kil. 
Time,  about  3i  hrs.  ;  fares,  pes.  12.25, 
1st  cl.,  and  pes.  9.55,  2d  cl.  Tarragona 
to  Valencia,  dist.  275  kil.  Time,  7  hrs. 
by  express ;  fares,  pes.  28.50, 1st  cl.,  and 
pes.  18.20,  2d  cl.  In  all  about  13  hrs. 
by  express  train,  leaving  Barcelona  at 
7.30  p.m.,  and  arriving  in  Valencia 
about  8  A.M.  The  train  times  are 
regulated  by  the  Madrid  meridian.  The 
Villanueva,  or  coast  line,  from  Barce- 
lona to  Tarragona  may  be  taken,  but  it 
loses  time,  and  the  picturesque  scenery 
about  Martorell  is  thereby  missed. 

Description  of  Route. — The  scen- 
ery is  picturesque,  and  assumes  here 
and  there  a  most  Oriental  character. 
The  fertility  of  the  soil  is  most  evident. 
There  are  some  most  lovely  views  on  ap- 
proaching Tarragona,  Valencia,  etc.  On 
leaving  Barcelona,  the  railway  crosses 
the  fertile  and  well-cultivated  tract  of  Ca- 
tatonia ;  near  HospUalet  a  model  farm- 
house has  been  established  which  thrives 
very  well.  The  Llohregat  river  is  met 
several  times,  which  waters  the  plains, 
and  is  also  applied  to  manufactures. 
Close  to  Molins  is  the  beautiful  stone 
bridge  of  Llandoner,  on  the  old  high 
road  to  Tarragona.  The  Llobregat  is 
crossed  on  approaching  Martorell,  and 
not  far  from   the  famous   bridge  del 


Diablo  (see  Martorell)  the  view  of  the 
city  and  its  environs  is  very  beautiful. 
The  distant  view  of  the  Monserrat,  Col- 
bat6,  and  Olesa  is  striking. 

Martorell. — 4137  inhabitants.  Inn: 
Posada  de  la  Cruz.     This,  the  Roman 
Tolobris,    is  situated  at  the  foot  of  a 
very  high  hill,  which  shelters  it  from 
the   S.  winds.      A   dirty,  irregularly 
built,  but  thriving  town,  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Barcelona.     There  is  no  object 
of  interest  here,  save  the  magnificent 
Roman  Puente  del  Diablo  over  the  Llo- 
bregat ;  this  is  one  of  the  finest  Roman 
works  in  Spain,  the  rival  of  those  at 
Alcantara,  Merida,  etc.     It  was,  there 
is  little  doubt,  originally  built  by  the 
Carthaginians,  and  ascribed  to  Hanni- 
bal,  218  B.c,  in  honour  of  Hamilcar. 
It  is  built  of  a  reddish  stone,  and  with 
the  utmost  regularity.     The  bold,  cen- 
tral, ogival-pointed  arch  is  133  ft.  wide 
in  the  span,  and  a  work  of  the  Moors. 
At  one  extremity  is  a  triumphal  arch, 
perfectly   preserved,    plain,    massive, 
majestic,  monumental,  all  characteristics 
of  its  Roman  architects.     The  bridge  is 
narrow,  and  so  steep  on  both  sides  that 
it  is  inaccessible  to  vehicles.    It  was 
repaired  in  1768.     The  scenery  about 
it  is  a  fit  frame  for  such  a  monument, 
for  the  eye  sweeps  over  well-cultivated 
plains    watered    by    the    Llobregat. 
Olesa  and  Collbat6  appear  in  the  dis- 
tance, and  above  and  beyond  soars  ma- 
jestically  into  the  blue   heaven    the 
Monserrat,  seen  in  all  its  grandeur  and 
full  proportions.     A  little  beyond  the 
bridge,  portions  of  Martorell  appear  on 
the  slopes  of  the  hill,  and  the  Noya, 
which  washes  its  projecting  portions, 
and   flows   from   Igualada,   joins    the 
Llobregat.      Conveyances   to   mineral 
baths  of  La  Puda ;  conveyances  to  Es- 
parraguera,  Igualada,  and  Monserrat. 

Villarana,— 400  inhabitants.  Shortly 
after  leaving  that  village  the  traveller 
enters  the  Sierra  de  Ortal,  and  crosses 


474 


VALENCIA — ROUTES. 


the  tine  bridge  of  Llandoner,  thrown 
boldly  over  a  deep  ravine  between  two 
hills  ;  the  road  is  good,  and  the  scenery 
picturesque  and  garden-like ;  the  fer- 
tility of  the  soil  is  most  evident. 

Villafranca  dels  Panad.es  (of  the 
Bakers). — 6600  inhabitants.  A  good 
Gothic  church,  but  modernised.  A 
dull,  backward  town.  Some  very  early 
palaces  of  kings  of  Aragon,  Count  of 
Rocafort,  etc.,  La  Casa  Pia  Almoina, 
etc.,  of  no  great  interest.  At  7 J  m.  off 
the  high  road,  and  on  a  hill,  is  the 
hamlet  of  San  Martin  de  Sarroca,  the 
church  of  which  is  perhaps  the  purest, 
and  certainly  most  exquisite,  type  of 
the  Byzantine  in  Catalufia  ;  10  m.  off 
in  another  direction  is  Sitjes,  where  ex- 
cellent white  wine  is  produced,  one  of 
the  many  in  Spain  which  are  as  yet  un- 
known. Villafranca,  founded  by  Ha- 
milcar,  was  the  earliest  Carthaginian 
colony  in  Catalufia.  The  road  be- 
tween Arbos  and  Tarragona  is  charming, 
following  the  Mediterranean,  now  close, 
now  at  some  distance,  which  here  does 
truly  '  lend  enchantment  to  the  view. ' 

Vendrell. — 5300  inhabitants.  Most 
picturesque  from  a  distance.  On  left, 
the  sea  (half-an-hour  off),  to  right,  well 
cultivated  plains.  Further  on  we  see 
the  Roman-built  *  Portal  de  Barra.' 
Elegant  and  well-proportioned,  the 
span  of  the  arch  is  some  17  feet  wide  ; 
the  inscription  formerly  here  ran:  'Ex 
testamento  L.  Licini  F.  Serg.  Surse 
consecratum,'  but  was  defaced  by  Gene- 
ral Van  Halen,  to  make  room  for  a 
pompous  eulogy  on  Espartero,  which 
was  likewise  destroyed. 

Close  to  Altafulla  the  Gaya  is  crossed 
on  a  stone  bridge.  To  the  right,  to- 
wards the  sandy  *  plagas  Uargas,'  on  a 
small  mound,  is  the  'Torre  de  los 
Escipiones,'  supposed  to  be  their  tomb 
(see  Tarragona).  Now  the  road  winds 
along  the  shore,  and  on  a  hill  in  the 
distance  rises 


Tarragona  (see  that  name).  Leaving 
Tarragona  and  proceeding  on  our  jour- 
ney to  Valencia,  Salou,  the  rival  port 
of  Tarragona,  is  reached.  The  vines 
around  it  produce  some  good  red  wines, 
which,  to  procure  readier  sale,  are  much 
encabezados.  The  Moscatel  is  exquisite , 
The  scenery  here  is  charming,  and 
the  sea  scarcely  ever  lost  sight  of. 
The  peasants'  dress  and  appearance 
change  about ,  this  place,  become 
less  Catalan  and  more  Valencian— 
that  is,  lose  the  Carthaginian  char- 
acter and  assume  the  garb  and  mien 
of  the  Berber  and  Bedouin.  At  San 
Carlos  de  la  Rapita,  not  far  off, 
the  ill-fated  madcap  General  Ortega 
landed  some  years  ago  with  a  few 
troops  he  had  enticed  to  follow  him, 
accompanied  by  the  foolish  Monte- 
moulin,  and  his  no  wiser  brother. 
The  discontented  officers  turned  against 
the  leader,  and  a  '  sauve  qui  peut '  was 
resorted  to  by  the  princes  and  general. 
The  former  were  politically  allowed  to 
escape,  but  the  young  and  handsome 
Ortega  was  taken  and  shot,  malgrt 
the  intercession  of  the  generous  Em- 
press of  the  French,  a  friend  of  other 
days. 

The  country  teems  with  fruit-trees 
and  vines.  Ampolla  nestles  in  the 
heart  of  the  miniature  gulf  which 
bears  its  name.  The  sea  is  scarcely 
lost  sight  of. 

Tortosa.— 24,000  inhab.  A  fortified 
city  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ebro.  Its 
importance  is  derived  from  the  situation 
in  a  military  view,  and  as  a  trading 
port,  exporting  for  upwards  of  twenty 
millions  of  reals  yearly.  On  leav- 
ing this  station,  and  crossing  the  Cenia, 
the  province  of  Valencia  is  entered. 

Vinaroz. — The  Duke  de  Venddme 
died  here  in  1742.  The  Castra  Aetia  of 
Sertorius,  who  wintered  his  troops  here, 
lies  9§  leagues  from  Morella,  which  con- 
tains a  curious  Iglesia  Mayor  of  1317; 


VALENCIA — ROUTES. 


476 


with  a  picture  of  Ribalta's.  Cabrera,  who, 
had  his  advice  been  followed  by  the  Pre- 
tender, would  have  reigned  Prime  Min- 
ister and  probably  Grand  Inquisitor, 
scaled  the  castle  by  ropes  on  the  night 
of  January  25,  1838,  defeated  near  its 
walls  the  queen's  troops,  and  was  made 
Conde  de  Morella.  The  warm  and 
picturesque.  Morellana  blankets  are 
made  here. 

BenicarU.  —  8000  souls  ;  a  fishing 
port  Here  is  produced,  the  celebrated 
strong,  rich,  heady  wine,  which  is 
sent  to  Bordeaux,  Bayonne,  etc.,  to 
strengthen  light  Macon  and  give 
body  and  sweetness  to  the  poor  acid 
piquette. 

Alcald  (de  Chisbert).  —  Near  this 
station  is  the  very  ancient  little  village 
of  Peiiiscola,  said  to  be  Diodorus's  Acra 
Leuk4,  founded  by  Hamilcar,  and  upon 
whose  altars  young  Hannibal  swore 
vengeance  against  the  Romans. 

Castellan  (de  la  Plana).— Buffet  (15 
min.)  Fonda  del  Ferro-Carril ;  27,000 
inhabitants.  A  modern  and  most  un- 
interesting city,  which  owes  its  pros- 
perity to  the  enterprising  and  intelli- 
gent 'labradores'  of  the  country 
around.  Admirers  of  the  Valencian 
school  of  painting  will  do  well  to  visit 
its  parish  church,  which,  indifferent  in 
other  respects,  contains  a  fine  Asuncion, 
by  the  Italian  Carlo  Maratta  (17th  cen- 
tury), a  good  Ribalta  over  Altar  de  las 
Animas,  and  in  the  choir  a  St.  Anthony, 
abbot,  St.  Ellis  and  Sta.  Lucia,  by  same, 
and  a  Descent  ascribed  to  Zurbaran. 
There  are  besides  several  Ribaltas,  etc., 
scattered  in  the  six  other  churches  of 
this  place.  Ribalta,  one  of  the  greatest 
of  Valencian  painters,  was  born  here, 
1551. 

Here,  too,  on  a  lead  plate,  has  been 
found  the  longest  inscription  extant  in 
the  so-called  Keltiberian  characters, 
which  still  awaits  a  decipher. 

Sapunto. — See  Valencia,  Excursion 


to  Sagunto.  Branch  lino  to  Segorbe. 
From  hence  to  Valencia  over  a  well 
cultivated  plain. 

From  Madrid,  by  rail ;  time,  about 
16  hrs.  ;  distance,  490  kil. ; 
fares,  1st  cl.,  pes.  56.75; 
2d  cl.,  pes.  43.75  ;  3d  cl., 
pes.  26.50.  Buffet  at  La  Encina,  where 
the  Alicante  to  Valencia  train  is  waited 
for,  and  carriages  changed.  For  de- 
scription of  route,  see  Madrid  from 
Valencia.  Return  tickets  at  reduced 
prices  during  June,  July,  August,  and 
September. 

From  Barcelona,  by  sea  (by  land 
see  supra).  Occasional  En- 
glish and  Spanish  steamers, 
for  which  inquire  at  the  various  agents' 
offices,  or  see  advertisements.  Regu- 
larly, the  steamers  of  the  Spanish 
Transatlantic  Company,  according  to 
advertisement.  There  are  steamers 
leaving  Valencia  four  or  five  times  a 
week,  for  Barcelona  and  Alicante, 
belonging  to  the  following  companies  : 
—  Espaliu  and  Co.  of  Sevilla,  the 
Compaiiia  Sevillana,  Ybarra  and  Co., 
and  the  Compaiiia  Valenciana  de 
Navigacion.  Fares  to  Barcelona  : 
1st  class,  17  pesetas  ;  2d  class,  12 
pesetas  ;  food  not  included. 

From  Marseilles.  By  occasional 
French  and  English 
steamers,  for  which  in- 
quire at  the  various 
agents'  offices  or  see  advertisements. 
The  regular  steam  communication  be- 
tween Marseilles  and  Valencia  is  no 
longer  to  be  recommended,  as  the 
boats  of  the  Messageries  Maritimes  do 
not  now  serve  this  port  en  roiUe  for 
Algiers.  The  steamers  of  the  above- 
named  Spanish  Companies,  running 
to  Barcelona  (see  supra),  continue 
the  voyage   to  Marseille.      Agencies 


476 


VALENCIA- — ROUTES. 


in  Valencia,  Calle  del  Torno  de  San 
Cristobal,  No.  5  and  Calle  de  Cabal- 
leros,  No.  9. 

For  Cette  and  Marseilles  the 
Compania  Valcnciana  de  Navigacion 
runs  steamers  every  Saturday,  with 
fair  accommodation  for  passengers, 
and  at  low  rates. 

From  Malaga  and  Almeria :  four 
or  five  sailings  weekly,  in  about  lV 
and  10  hours  respectively,  by  regular 
Spanish  lines. 

From  Cadiz  and  Seville,  etc.  ;  by 
frequent  steamers.  Apply  to  Mac- 
Andrews  and  Co.,  to  Dart  and  Co., 
Calle  del  Mar  59,  or  to  Horacio  Al- 
con  y  Compania,  Calle  de  la  Aduana, 
Cadiz. 

From  Alicante :  weekly  as  from 
Malaga,  etc.  (also  to  Ali- 
cante, as  supra,  p.  475,  to 
and  from  Barcelona).  By  rail;  119  m. 
Two  trains  per  day,  in 
about  11  hrs.  Change  car- 
riages at  La  Encina — fair 
buffet.  For  description  of  route  to  La 
Encina  see  Routes  to  Alicante;  for  de- 
scription of  route  from  La  Encina  to 
Valencia  see  Madrid  from  Valencia. 

From  Cartagena.  By  sea;  fre- 
quently, as  from  Malaga,  etc.  For 
all  sailings  inquire  and  see  advertise- 
ments. By  rail,  vid  Murcia,  Elche 
and  Alicante,  changing  at  Murcia, 
Alicante  and  La  Encina.  Or,  more 
direct,  vid  Chinchilla,  where  join  the 
direct  Madrid  train ;  two  trains  per 
day  in  about  17  hrs. 

From  Cuenca,  by  dil.  and  rail. 
See  Madrid  from  Valencia  via  Cuenca, 
Rail  as  far  as  Utiel,  88  kil.  in  4  hrs. 
Two  trains  per  day. 

From  Zaragoza,  %i&  Madrid  or 
Mora  and  Tarragona.     See  Indicador. 


Or  the  enterprising  tourist  may  drive 
I  or  take  rail  to  either  Calatayud  or 
Carinena  ;  from  either  of  these  points 
diligence  or  carriage  vid  Daroca,  Mon- 
real  and  Teruel  to  Segorbe,  from  whence 
train  to  Valencia.  The  Carinena  train 
starts  from  the  special  Carinena  station 
at  Zaragoza.  The  road  is  wearisome, 
uninteresting,  and  not  much  fre- 
quented. The  ecclesiologist  a  outrance 
may,  however,  gather  some  interesting 
impressions  at  Daroca  and  Teruel. 

On  leaving  Zaragoza,  the  Canal  im- 
perial is  crossed,  and  Carinena  (3000 
inhabitants)  is  soon  reached.  There 
are  here  several  traces  of  the  Gothic 
and  Moorish  periods — a  subterranean 
chapel,  formerly  a  mosque ;  and,  close 
to  the  modern  parish,  a  square  tower, 
once  the  property  of  the  Knights  of  St 
John.  On  the  slopes  of  the  hills  situ- 
ated S.  of  the  city  grow  the  vines  from 
which  the  excellent  Carinena  white 
wine  is  made.  Shortly  after  leaving 
the  Puerto  de  San  Martin  is  traversed, 
and  finally  we  reach 

Daroca. — 8500  inhabitants.  A  very 
fine  ancient  city,  situated  in  a  hollow, 
and  surrounded  by  high  hills  (a  good 
posada).  These  hills  are  crowned  by 
Moorish  walls,  flanked  by  144  towers, 
and  producing  a  most  picturesque 
effect  The  town  itself  is  dull,  and 
looks  poor,  although  the  chief  place  of 
a  district  which  teems  with  corn  and 
wine.  The  sights  are  the  Colegiata,  a 
Gothic  edifice  built  middle  of  15th 
century  by  Juan  II.  of  Aragon,  and 
modernised  in  1587.  A  Doric  chapel 
is  ornamented  with  a  fine  plateresqne 
retablo,  with  Salominic  columns.  The 
Ascension  is  the  work  of  Francisco 
Franco,  1682.  Here  are  kept  the  cele- 
brated relics  called  Los  Santos  Oorpo- 
rales  (the  napkins  where  the  sacred 
wafers  are  kept),  placed  in  a  golden 
reliquary,  a  gift  of  Ferdinand  the 
Catholic     According  to  legend,  those 


VALENCIA — ROUTES. 


477 


miraculous  corporales  were  used  on  the 
day  of  a  battle  against  the  infidel  (in 
1239),  when  Don  Berenguer  Denteuza 
was  besieging  the  castle  of  Ohio,  in 
the  province  of  Valencia.  The  Moors 
attacking  a  party  of  Christians,  the 
latter,  who  were  in  the  act  of  taking 
the  sacrament,  came  out  to  repel  them ; 
the  priest  wrapped  up  the  wafers  in- 
tended for  them  in  the  corporales,  hid 
them  in  a  bush,  and  after  the  defeat 
of  the  infidels  the  corporales  were 
found  to  contain,  instead  of  six  wafers, 
six  bits  of  bleeding  flesh — the  mystery 
of  transubstantiation  being  thus  evi- 
dent. They  are  exhibited  to  the  pub- 
lic on  Corpus  Christi  Day.  The  other 
sight  here  is  the  mina,  or  tunnel  built 
to  afford  an  outlet  to  the  overflowing 
water,  when  the  rains  threaten  to  in- 
undate the  city.  It  is  2340  ft.  long, 
24  ft.  wide,  and  24  ft.  high,  and  the 
work  of  a  Frenchman,  Pierre  Bedel 
(1560).  The  Jiloca  river  is  followed 
some  time,  and  its  affluent  the  Pan- 
crudo  is  crossed. 

Teruel. — 9500  inhab.  A  Parador  in 
the  Obalo,  but  accommodation  very  poor. 
The  chief  place  of  one  of  the  three  pro- 
vinces which  formed  the  ancient  king- 
dom of  Aragon.  This  old  city  is  pic- 
turesquely placed  on  the  slopes  of  a  lofty 
hill,  watered  by  the  Guadalquivir  ;  the 
old  crumbling  walls,  wretched  houses, 
and  dirty  streets,  are  in  unison  with  the 
appearance  of  its  inhabitants.  The  sights 
are  not  many. 

The  Cathedral  is  alarge  edifice  divided 
into  three  naves.  It  is  sombre,  and  has 
been  cruelly  disfigured  by  modernisers. 
The  elaborate  retablo  is  the  work  of  a 
French  sculptor  of  1538,  whose  style 
and  handling  are  Italian-like,  Gabriel 
Yoli  or  Joli  ;  observe  also  a  picture  of 
the  11,000  virgins,  on  right  of  transept, 
by  an  excellent  Valencian  painter,  An- 
tonio Bisquert ;  the  very  fine  chapel  de 
la    Epifania,  the  well-carved  classical 


silleria,  the  retablo  in  Capilla  de  los 
Reyes,  also  by  Bisquert ;  the  coro  screen, 
and  two  excellent  silver  custodias,  one 
especially  of  the  plateresque. 

Church  of  Santiago.  —  A  first-rate 
retablo,  and  a  grand  Dead  Christ,  by 
Bisquert,  whom  study  attentively  here, 
as  his  works  are  very  scarce,  and  his 
style  almost  unknown. 

Chapel  of  el  Salvador  contains  the 
celebrated  miraculous  image  of  the 
'  Cristo  de  las  tres  Manos.' 

Torre  de  San  Martin.  —  A  square 
Moorish  belfry  tower.  It  rises  over  an 
ogivalarch,  which  constitutes  one  of  the 
entrance  gates  of  this  gloomy,  solid 
Aragonese  city.  Notice  the  interlaced 
details,  arabesque  tracery,  and  varied 
azulejos. 

Church  of  San  Pedro. — Other  admir- 
able specimens  of  Bisquert's  are  the 
pictures  of  the  tutelars,  San  Joaquin 
and  Sta.  Teresa  ;  the  fine  retablo  is  by 
Yoli.  In  the  cloisters  lie  buried  the 
celebrated  Amantes  de  Teruel,  Juan  de 
Marcilla,  and  Isabella  de  Segura,  who 
died  1217,  and  whose  bodies  were  found 
perfectly  preserved  as  late  as  1555 ;  they 
were  brought  here  in  1708.  Their 
pathetic  story  has  formed  the  subject 
of  several  dramas  and  poems,  both  old 
and  modern,  from  Perez  de  Montalban 
and  Yaque  de  Salas  to  Hartzembush. 

There  is  also  a  celebrated  aqueduct 
to  visit  here,  which  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  this  part  of  Spain,  and  the  work  of 
Pierre  Bedel,  the  able  French  engineer 
who  made  the  Daroca  Mina.  It  was  built 
in  1560,  and  carries  the  water  to  the 
town  from  a  hill  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
off,  and  over  140  stone  arches.  Close  to 
the  city  the  double  arches  thrown  over 
ravine  measure  about  60  ft  span,  and 
150  ft  in  height.  Those  of  the  lower 
stage  are  circular,  and  those  above 
Gothic.  From  Teruel  several  roads 
diverge ;  one  leads  to  Cuenca,  riding 
19}  leagues  amid  Alpine  scenery  and 


478 


VALENCIA — ROUTES. 


districts  hitherto  unexplored,  and  said 
to  be  of  great  interest  to  geologists. 
The  highest  peak,  la  Muela  de  San 
Juan,  is  5280  ft.  high.  There  is  also 
some  good  sport.  Albaraicin  may  be 
made  head-quarters.  A  local  guide  is 
indispensable.  Madrid  can  be  easily 
reached  from  Cuenca  (see  Madrid  from 
Cuenca). 

For  further  information  concerning 
this  interesting  and  comparatively 
unexplored  country,  see  the  recently 
(1898)  published  Cid-Campeador)  by 
H.  Butler-Clarke  and  Santiago  Arcos, 
in  the  '  Heroes  of  the  Nations '  series. 

J  erica  is  reached ;  an  old  semi-Moor- 
ish city,  with  an  imposing  ruined  castle. 
The  Palancia  is  crossed  on  a  fine  bridge 
made  by  the  Bishop  of  Segorbe,  Juan 
de  Munatones,  in  1570. 

Segorbe, — 8200  inhabitants.  On  the 
slopes  of  two  hills  and  left  bank  of  the 
Palancia ;  a  bishop's  see.  This  very 
picturesque  and  ancient  city  possesses 
still  its  curious  Roman  walls  and  three 
fine  Doric  columns,  which  once  formed 
part  of  a  temple,  and  now  decorate  the 
facade  of  a  modern  palacio  belonging  to 
the  Duke  de  Medina  Ccli.  The  streets 
in  the  older  portion  of  the  city  are  pre- 
cipitous, ill-paved,  winding.  The  newer 
quartier  looks  commonplace,  and  con- 
tains no  objects  of  interest.  The  Cathe- 
dral is  in  itself  poor  and  indifferent, 
but  contains  a  very  fine  retablo,  with 
pictures  by  Juan  de  Joanes,  representing 
scenes  from  the  life  and  death  of  the 
Saviour.  The  cloisters  are  of  good  style. 
In  the  Church  of  San  Martin  observe 
some  fine  pictures,  and  among  others 
the  Christ  in  Limbo,  by  Ribalta,  and 
the  Vision  of  the  Tutelar. 

From  Segorbe  the  train  is  taken  to 
Sagunto,  from  whence  three  trains  a 
day  to  Valencia  in  about  an  hour. 
The  railway  is  in  process  of  con- 
struction between  Teruel  and  Seg- 
orbe,   and   is    projected    to   cut   the 


Zaragoza  -  Madrid  line  at  Calatayud, 
vid  Daroca. 

From  Balearic  Islands.  —  From 
Palma,  touching  at  Yviza,  vapores 
correos  leave  on  Sundays  at  8  A.M., 
and  on  Thursdays  a  boat  direct.  Times 
liable  to  change  :  see  time-tables  and 
local  advertisements. 


The  Climate  of  Valencia. 

Valencia  is  situated  35°  27'  15'  N. 
lat,  and  3°  18'  E.  long,  of  Madrid; 
39°  28'  30*  N.  lat,  and  16°  34'  long,  of 
Paris;  39°  28'  N.  lat,  and  0°  28'  W. 
long,  of  Greenwich.  From  its  particu- 
lar situation,  being  as  it  is  sheltered  by 
lofty  hills  from  the  cold  and  dry  con- 
tinental winds  which  blow  from  W.  and 
N.,  and  opened  and  much  exposed  to 
the  warm  moisture  of  the  sea-breeze, 
besides  its  high  latitude  and  being  built 
in  a  plain  teeming  with  vegetation, 
which  partly  owes  its  luxuriance  to  great 
and  constant  irrigation,  the  imperme- 
ability of  a  clayey  and  calcareous  sub- 
soil, Valencia  possesses  all  the  characters 
of  a  warm  yet  moist  temperature  essen- 
tially depressing.  According  to  Mi- 
nano's  Tables,  Romagosa's  *  Afio  Clinico 
de  Cirujia,'  etc.,  the  prevalent  wind  is 
the  Levanter,  which,  during  a  twelve- 
month's testing  period,  was  felt  622 
times,  whilst  the  western  was  felt  only 
206  times,  the  north  102  times,  and 
the  due  south  wind  (scorching  Sahara 
breath)  only  28  times.  The  Levanter 
sweeps  over  the  Mediterranean,  and 
therefore  absorbs  its  moister  vapours 
before  arriving  at  Valencia.  Thus  it 
tempers  the  summer  heat,  and  adds  but 
little  to  the  cold  in  winter.  "When  the 
E.  wind  turns  to  S.  and  becomes  the 
dreaded  sirocco  (the  Roman  euros — S.E.), 
which  is  often  the  case,  it  becomes  warn\ 


VALENCIA. 


479 


lowering,  oppressive,  though  it  continues 
to  be  moist.  The  W.  wind  comes  across 
the  denuded  plains  of  La  Mancha  and 
the  arid  sandy  plateaux  of  Castile,  and 
breathes  on  the  town  an  atmosphere 
burning  in  summer  and  cold  in  winter, 
always  dry.  The  S.W.  is  rainy  and 
precursory  of  storms.  The  most  dreaded, 
but  fortunately  the  rarest  of  all,  is  the 
S. ;  it  is  the  breath  of  the  desert,  and 
transforms  Valencia  into  an  oven,  be- 
sides which  it  crosses  the  marshes  and 
rice-grounds  near  the  Albufera,  and 
thus  is  charged  with  mephitic  paludian 
miasms ;  the  very  sky  then  becomes 
iron-grey,  birds,  insects,  and  plants 
show  signs  of  depression,  and  man  lies 
prostrate. 

Rain  is  not  frequent  The  average 
number  of  days  is  38,  on  an  average  of 
five  years.  According  to  D.  Edwin 
Lee,  it  rarely  rains  unless  with  an  E. 
wind.  The  autumn  and  spring  are 
the  rainy  seasons.  The  dew,  especially 
in  winter,  is  very  great ;  and  as  much 
as  67*  (after  Saussure's  hygrometer) 
have  been  calculated  during  eight 
months. 

Temperature. — The  average  heat  is 
18°  42'  ;  winter,  11°  4' ;  spring,  17°  8' ; 
summer,  24°  9';  autumn,  19°  6',  the 
thermometer  seldom  falling  to  zero,  and 
never  below.  Snow  is  among  things 
unknown.  This  medical  station  is 
placed  within  the  third  isothermic  zone, 
determined  by  Alex.  "Von  Humboldt, 
on  the  line  which  crosses  Naples,  Cape 
Matapan,  St.  John  of  Hese,  and  Ben- 
der-AbassL 

Influence  on  Health  and  Disease — 
The  market-place  is  here,  as  elsewhere,  a 
faithful  and  palpable  evidence  of  the 
peculiarities  of  the  climate  ;  and  here 
local  proverbs  are  not  to  be  scorned. 
Thus  the  Zaragozans,  who  drink  bad 
water,  which,  being  muddy,  etc. ,  has  a 
bad  influence  on  the  health,  say  : 

Mas  comemos  de  lo  que  bebemos. 


Whilst  the  Valencians  say  : 

Carne  cs  verdura ; 
Verdura  es  agua ; 
H  ombres  son  mugeres, 
Y  mugeres,  nada. 

The  influence  of  this  climate  is  there- 
fore  depressing,  not  stimulating.  This 
is  exhibited  in  the  people,  who  are 
pale,  with  a  flabby,  puffed-up  skin, 
and  a  great  predisposition  to  corpu- 
lence. The  drains  of  the  town  are 
badly  managed,  and  although  now 
covered  in,  the  Valladur  still  sends 
its  abominable  emanations  to  the  town 
on  the  Levanter.  The  houses  are  high 
and  ill-aired,  and  the  water,  unless  sup- 
plied from  the  reservoir  up  the  river,  is 
anything  but  good.  It  is  considerably 
charged  with  lime,  and  therefore  does 
not  dissolve  soap,  and  makes  the 
vegetables  hard.  It  often  impedes  easy 
digestion,  and  is  disagreeable  to  taste. 
Globules  of  quicksilver  have  been 
sometimes  found  in  the  water,  as  there 
is  a  deposit  of  it  which  goes  through 
the  clay  stratum  which  passes  under 
the  town  at  a  depth  of  2  ft.  only,  and 
from  E.  to  W.  (Romagosa).  The 
climate  is  suited  to  those  of  nervous 
temperament,  whose  skin  is  dry  and 
the  sensibility  great  and  irritable. 
Owing  to  the  sudden  transitions  of 
temperature  caused  by  the  change  in  the 
sea  and  continental  winds,  bronchitis, 
quinsy,  pneumonias,  and  pulmonias  are 
frequent.  During  the  hot  season  if 
iced  drinks  be  taken  in  excess,  gastric 
fevers,  diarrhoea,  etc.,  immediately 
ensue.  In  cases  of  consumption  this 
climate  is  not  favourable,  especially 
when  the  symptoms  are  as  yet  of  an 
alarming  character ;  and  it  is  known 
to  have  often  prevented  the  hemop- 
tysia ;  but  in  cases  of  tertiary  symp- 
toms it  should  be  carefully  avoided, 
for  it  would  prove  deadly,  owing  to 
its  dissolvent  and  depressing  character. 
Neglected  catarrhs,  which  frequently 
occur  in  the  summer,  especially  among 


480 


VALENCIA. 


the  lower  orders,  frequently  terminate 
in  consumption.  Pisa  is  the  climate 
which  has  the  greatest  similarity  with 
that  of  Valencia,  both  as  to  its  nature 
and  its  influence  on  health  and  disease. 
On  the  whole,  however,  Valencia 
possesses  a  good  climate — warm  and 
most  genial.  The  inhabitants  along  the 
marshes,  rizales,  etc.,  are,  of  course, 
the  prey  to  ague  and  other  consequent 
affections ;  but  those  of  the  town  are 
and  look  healthy,  notwithstanding  the 
bad  sanitary  organisation.  The  mor- 
tality is  1  '29,  and  there  is  a  fair  propor- 
tion of  longevity.  Dyspeptic  patients 
might  also  derive  advantage  from  this 
climate.  The  doctors  are  good,  but 
English  medicines  not  easy  to  obtain. 

Mean  atmospheric  pressure                   .  760.56 
„      annual  temperature    .                 .19.4 
Temperature,  maximum  (June  26)  at 

9  A.M.                              .  39- ° 
Temperature,   minimum  (Jan.    20)  at 

9  a.m. 5.0 

Number  of  rainy  days           ...  53 

Quantity  fallen 41 3.0 


Theatres.  —Principal,  Calle  de  las 
Barcas  ;  De  la  Princesa,  Calle  del  Bey 
don  Jaime  ;  Apolo,  Calle  Don  Juan  de 
Austria  ;  Ruzafa,  C.  de  Ruzafa. 

Plaza  de  Toros. — Behind  the  railway 
station  for  Barcelona,  just  outside 
the  Ruzafa  gate.  Will  seat  15,000  per- 
sons. Corridas  during 'May,  June, 
July  and  August.  The  Plaza  is  one 
of  the  handsomest  in  the  Peninsula, 
and  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Hospital 
Provincial. 

Carriage  Fares.— Caleches  are  very 
rare,  and  without  a  tariff.  The  usual 
consequence  is  the  Tartana,  a  reminis- 
cence of  the  araba  of  the"  Moor.  We 
recommend  the  uninitiated  to  begin  by 
the  suspension  vehicles,  the  others  being 
&  la  hauteur  only  of  those  who  can  bear 
jolting. 

Tariff. 


Hotels. —  Grand  Hotel,  Calle  San 
Vicente,  at  corner  of  the  Plaza.  Very 
good.  Prices  from  10  pes.  De  Roma, 
Plaza  de  Villarasa,  and  De  Paris, 
Calle  del  Mar,  both  fair,  same  prices 
as  the  Grand  Hotel.  De  Europa  near 
Station,  and  Cuatro  Naciones,  Calle 
Lauria,  prices  from  6  pes. 

Cafis  —  De  Espana,  Del  Siglo,  Plaza 
de  la  Reina ;  Fortis,  Calle  de  la 
Paz. 

Casino. —  Plaza  de  Mirasol.  Eng- 
lish papers  taken.  Introduction  by 
a  member,  for  one  month.  There 
are  also  several  literary  and  social 
circles  to  which  an  introduction  is 
readily  obtained. 

Post  Office.  — Stibida  del  Palau. 
Telegraph  Office,  at  the  Post  Office. 
Public  Telephone  Office,  7  Calle  Em- 
bajador  Vich. 


The  course  (carrera) . 

Pes.  1.00 

By  the  hour — 

The  first  hour 

„    i-50 

Each  successive  hour     . 

1,    i-00 

For  a  whole  day 

i)    7-5° 

A  few  coehes  de  plaza  stand  in  the 
Plaza  de  Villarrasa,  etc.,  and  require 
bargaining.  The  usual  fare  is  pes. 
1.25  per  course ;  pes.  1.75  for  the  1st 
hour  ;  pes.  1.75  for  each  additional 
hour. 

From  7  to  12  night  the  fares  are 
paid  one-half  extra,  and  double  from 
12  to  dawn.  There  are  stands  in  the 
principal  streets  and  plazas.  Conven- 
tional prices  for  excursions  outside 
the  town.  From  stations  or  diligence 
offices  to  hotels,  lr.  to  2r.  a  parcel, 
2r.  a  person. 

Baths. — De  Diana,  2  Calle  Transits; 
De  Espinosa,  Calle  de  Carniceros ;  De 
Pizarro,  Calle  de  Pizarro. 

General  Description. — Valencia, 
the  Sultana  of  Mediterranean  cities, 


VALENCIA. 


481 


as  she  is  sometimes  grandiloquently 
styled,  will  greatly  disappoint  those 
who  have  been  led  to  expect  here 
anything  of  natural  beauty.  The 
whole  region  is  perfectly  flat,  the 
sea  is  three  miles  off,  along  a  dirty 
or  dusty  road,  and  the  Huerta,  which 
surrounds  the  city,  is  but  a  large 
orchard,  watered  by  the  most  in- 
genious means,  through  a  thousand 
rills'  and  pipes,  which,  after  eight 
centuries,  remain  and  look  the  same  as 
when  the  Moor  first  constructed  them. 
Here  the  carob,  flax,  the  orange  and 
citron,  the  palm  and  the  mulberry, 
grow  with  a  wild  luxuriance.  Nature 
seems  to  exceed  her  usual  strength 
and  fecundity,  and  displays  what 
great  and  constant  moisture  and  a 
burning  sun  can  produce  (see  General 
Information  :  Agriculture).  The  city 
is  walled,  and  flanked  by  massive 
towers,  and  with  four  monumental 
gates.  On  the  N.  side  flows  the 
Quadalaviar  or  Turia,  over  which  are 
five  large  and  picturesque  bridges. 
The  interior  of  the  city  is  striking  and 
pleasing.  Most  of  the  streets  are 
macadamised,  excepting  those  of  St. 
Fernando  and  that  of  El  Mercado  ;  the 
consequence  is  mud  when  it  rains, 
and  an  insupportable,  thin,  sight- 
destructive  dust  in  summer,  which 
constant  watering  does  not  allay.  The 
Calle  de  Caballeros  is  the  finest  and 
most  curious ;  that  of  San  Vicente  is 
the  longest ;  the  widest  that  of  La 
Ruzafa.  The  Calle  del  Mar  is  the 
most  animated  ;  and  the  locally-noted 
blankets,  articles  of  dress,  etc.,  are 
to  be  seen  in  Calle  de  los  Mantos. 
The  principal  gates  are  Fuerta  de 
Serranos,  which  dates  1349,  and  El 
Cuarte  of  1444,  on  the  Cuenca  road. 
The  old  walls,  built  up  by  Pedro 
IV.,  in  1356,  are  battlemented,  and 
have  retained  all  their  picturesque- 
ness,  and  must  not  be  omitted  by  the 

2 


artist.  The  principal  squares  are 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  where  we  see 
the  town-hall  and  apse  of  the  cathe- 
dral ;  that  of  San  Francisco,  a  former 
conventual  garden,  and  now  filled  with 
trees  and  benches  ;  de  Santo  Domingo ; 
and  the  finest  that  of  La  Aduana, 
which  was  laid  out  by  General  Suchet. 
The  Mercado,  once  the  site  of  tourna- 
ments, bull-fights,  and  jousts,  is  well 
worth  a  visit ;  for,  besides  the  Lonja, 
and  several  other  edifices  here,  the 
fruit,  enormous  in  size  and  most  varied, 
the  vegetables,  the  dress,  and  Langue 
d'Oc,  spoken  by  the  lower  classes,  will 
not  fail  to  interest. 

The  old  houses,  some  very  curious 
and  fine,  are  generally  low,  sombre, 
mysterious-looking.  Those  more  re- 
cently built  are,  on  the  contrary,  high, 
gaily-coloured,  blue,  rose,  and  cream, 
etc.,  decorated  with  very  light  and 
elegant  iron-gilt  balconies,  charming 
glass  miradores,  and  cool,  pretty  patios, 
full  of  flowers  and  with  fountains. 
Valencia  is  now  awakened  from  the 
lethargic  sleep  which  she  shared  with 
her  sister  maritime  towns  along  that 
coast,  and  engaged  in  the  busy  life  of 
trade,  and  its  handmaids  agriculture 
and  manufactures.  The  improvement 
of  its  port,  the  railway  connecting  it 
with  the  capital,  of  which  it  has  become 
the  Brighton  of  waterless  scorched-up 
Madrilenos  in  the  summer,  have  con- 
tributed to  this  renewal  of  prosperity. 
The  shipping,  to  England  especially,  is 
brisk  and  actively  kept  up  ;  and  there 
is  speculation  and  some  banking.  In 
a  social  point  of  view,  Valencia  is  dull, 
and  not  hospitable ;  there  is  some 
society,  all  of  the  intimate  and  tertulia 
style,  among  the  merchants  and  the  few 
noblemen  who  reside  here.  The  theatre 
is  good  and  much  frequented,  the  pro- 
menades charming,  and  the  fair  Valen- 
cianas,  Venetian-like,  bionde  e  gras- 
sotte,  *ont  un  doux  sourire  triste  eut 
I 


482 


VALENCIA. 


la  bouche,  mi  tendre  rayon  bleu  dans 
le  regard ;  ces  noirs  demons  de  la 
Huerta  ont  pour  femmes  des  anges 
blancs.'  There  are  no  books,  and  very 
little  art ;  the  Cathedral  and  Museo 
are  in  reality  the  only  sights,  and 
one  long  day  will  suffice  for  them  ;  but 
to  the  real  artist  there  will  be  ample 
compensation  in  the  study  of  the  popu- 
lation in  the  market  and  on  the 
Muelle  ;  and  of  the  scenery  in  the  en- 
virons and  by  the  sea-side. 

Historical  Notice. — The  name  Va- 
lencia may  mean  the  city  of  Bal,  or  may  be 
derived  from  the  Latin Valentia,  strength, 
power,  as  Roma,  in  Greek,  signifies  the 
same.  It  was  probably  an  early  Phoe- 
nician colony,  and,  according  to  Livy, 
was  granted  by  Junius  Brutus,  who 
was  consul  in  Spain,  to  three  veterans 
of  Viriatus,  138  b.o.  Pompey,  who 
was  defeated  by  Sertorius  on  the  banks 
of  the  Turia,  destroyed  it.  It  was 
rebuilt  by  Sertorius,  became  a  co- 
lonia  and  the  capital  of  the  EdetanL 
The  Goths  took  possession  of  it,  413 
A.c,  and  the  Berbers  under  Yussuf, 
714,  who  enlarged  the  small  Roman 
circuit  which  the  Goths  had  preserved. 
The  Moorish  line  of  walls  once  extended 
from  the  Temple  to  Puerta  de  Serranos, 
Calle  del  Sagrario,  Portal  de  Salinas, 
Calle  de  Las  Danzas ;  then  went  on  by 
Calle  Nueva,  that  of  Cerrajeros,  which 
it  left  half-way  ;  turned  to  the  right  by 
Homo  de  la  Pelota,  to  Calle  de  Barce- 
lona, Plaza  San  Vicente  ;  turned  to  left 
behind  San  Jorge,  and  by  the  side  of 
present  Sto.  Tomas  returned  to  the 
Temple.  This  last  circuit  was  enlarged 
by  Pedro  IV.  in  1356.  The  wall  shows 
the  external  line.  At  the  general  dis- 
tribution of  Arab  races  all  over  Spain, 
the  Syrians  obtained  this  portion.  In 
1020,  an  independent  kingdom  was 
founded  here  by  Abel-Azis,  which 
lasted  till  1094.  A  league,  aided  by 
lhe  Cid,  was  then  formed  against  its 


princes.    This  hero  besieged  the  town, 
which  at  last  surrendered  a.d.  1094-5. 
Here  he  governed  as  a  cruel  and  abso- 
lute dictator  until  his  death  in  1099. 
No  sooner  had  the  tidings  of  his  death 
spread  over  the  land  than  the  whole  ol 
the  Almoravide  army  hastily  marched 
against  the  city  that  Ximena  defended 
In  the  plains  of  Cuarte  the  two  armiea 
were  soon  in  presence  of  each  other. 
The  Christian  army,  greatly  reduced 
in  numbers,  placed  the  body  of  the 
Cid     upon     his     well -known     steed 
Babieca,  at  whose  sight  the  terrified 
Moors  opened  way,  and  the  Castiliaiifl 
withdrew  in  all  haste,  abandoning  a 
city  which  they  could  no  longer  de- 
fend.     It    was  recaptured    from  the 
Moors  September  28,  1238,  by  Jayme 
el    Conquistador,    who    added    it  to 
Aragon.     The  Valencians  formed  part, 
under  the  warlike  kings  of  Aragon, 
of  several  important  military  and  naval 
expeditions,    with   which    Roger   de 
Lauria's  name  is  associated.     It  was 
brought  under  the  Spanish  crown  by 
the  union  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 
Valencia's  prosperity  was  now  at  an 
end.     The  Moriscoes,  who  had  created 
its  strength  and  power,  cultivated  the 
vegas  and  huerta,  had  been  its  magical 
architects,  and  had  raised  its  wondrous 
palaces  and  bridges,  were  expelled  by 
Philip  II.,  1609  ;  and  the  war  of  suc- 
cession,  in  which  it  sided   with  the 
Archduke  of  Austria,  dealt  the  death- 
blow.    Its  fueros  were  taken  from  it 
by  Philip  V.  after  his  victory  at  Al- 
mansa.     During  the  Peninsular  War, 
the  city  rose  to  defend  the  throne  of 
Ferdinand  VII.  ;    the    monk,    Padre 
Rico,  headed  the  mob  ;  Canon  Calvo 
organised  it ;  Moncey  was  beaten  back; 
but  on  March  5,  1810,  Suchet  easily 
captured  the  town,  which  was  all  con- 
fusion, and  the  usual  fighting  for  power 
and  personalidades  between  Blake  and 
the  Junta.     Queen  Christina  abdicated 


VALENCIA — CATHEDKAL. 


483 


here;  Espartero  was  named  Regent, 
and,  in  1843,  Narvaez  was  raised  to 
the  Grandeza,  with  the  title  of  Duque 
de  Valencia.  It  is  emphatically  called 
'Valencia  del  Cid,'  as  having  been  the 
court  and  capital  of  that  ballad  hero. 

Sights.— -Cathedral,  Colegio  del  Pa- 
triarca,  Minor  Churches,  Lonja,  Uni- 
versity, Picture  Gallery  (Museo),  Pri- 
vate Houses,  etc. 

CatJcDraL  Historical  Notice. — All 
religions  have  sought  to  erect  their 
principal  temples  on  the  site  of  those 
which  they  came  to  destroy,  and  here, 
as  in  almost  every  city  in  Spain,  the 
present  Sta.  Maria,  Christian  church, 
rose  on  the  ruins  of  the  great  mosque, 
which,  in  turn,  was  erected  on  the  site 
of  a  temple  of  Diana,  dedicated  by  Pub. 
and  En.  Scipio  to  that  goddess.  The 
present  cathedral  was  built  by  Bishop 
Vt.  Andre's  de  Albalat,  who  laid  the 
first  stone,  June  22,  1262.  It  was  con- 
siderably enlarged  by  Valdomar  in 
1482,  and  was  modernised,  especially 
the  interior  and  portions  of  the  exte- 
rior, in  1750.  Its  popular  name  is  La 
Seo  (The  See),  and  it  is  one  of  the  few 
cathedrals  in  Spain  which  have  been 
deprived  of  the  intrinsic  value  and  in- 
terest to  which  it  might  legitimately 
have  laid  claim. 

Style,  Proportions. — The  interior  is 
a  jumble  ;  the  exterior  mostly  belongs 
to  the  Gothic  of  the  13th  and  15th  cen- 
turies ;  the  length  is  850  ft.,  and  the 
width,  taken  from  the  transept,  216  ft 
Exterior. — It  has  three  principal  por- 
tals. The  MigueUte  entrance  is  at  the 
foot  of  the  tower  de  San  Miguel,  and 
opposite  to  the  fine  street  de  Zaragoza. 
The  tower  del  Micalet  rises  162  ft  high, 
but  was  intended  by  its  architect,  Juan 
Frank,  to  have  been  350  ft  high.  It 
is  octagonal  in  plan ;  the  circumference 
is  equal  to  its  height.  It  is  divided 
into  four  stages,  the  lower  being  quite 
plain,  and  the  upper  one,  or  belfry, 


enriched  with  elegant  crocketed  pedi 
ments  over  the  windows  and  panel' 
ling.  The  view  from  the  top  is  one 
of  the  most  striking  in  Spain  and  must 
not  be  omitted.  The  entrance  itself  is 
of  a  poor  hybrid  style,  Gotho-classical, 
and  none  at  all  The  statues  of  local 
saints  are  very  indifferent,  the  best 
sculpture  here  being  the  relievo  repre- 
senting a  gloria  with  angels,  and  the 
Virgin's  monogram,  etc.,  by  Vergara. 

The  splendid  north  Portal  de  los  Apos- 
tolus is  ogival,  with  figures  of  virgins  and 
seraphims.  The  third  is  in  a  square, 
not  far  from  the  Archiepiscopal  Palace, 
and  called  del  Palau.  It  is  circular, 
early,  and  very  fine.  Observe  over  the 
door  fourteen  small  heads  sculptured  in 
a  row  under  the  cornice,  half  male  and 
the  other  female  heads.  These  repre- 
sent the  seven  knights  who  were  married 
to  young  women  of  seven  neighbouring 
villages,  and  constituted  the  ancestors 
of  Valencian  nobility.  Of  the  N.  tran- 
sept facade  observe  the  lovely  tracery 
and  panelling  of  rose  window  and  wall, 
the  gabled  canopy,  the  crocketed  pedi- 
ment, and,  behind  all,  the  rich  cim- 
borio.  To  get  the  best  view  of  the 
whole  stand  at  the  fountain  in  the 

centre  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Audiencia. 
Interior. — Consists  of  three   naves 

divided  by  twenty-five  square  piers  with 
Corinthian  pilasters.  It  is  heavy  and 
wanting  in  harmony.  The  cimborio 
and  transept  are  fine,  and  of  the  15th 
century.  The  noble  lantern  dates  1404. 
The  lateral  naves,  some  274  ft*  wide, 
go  round  the  high  chapel  and  form  in 
its  circular  termination  eight  small  cha- 
pels. High  Chapel,  built  by  Arch- 
bishop Alfonso  de  los  Cameros  in  1682, 
is  all  of  precious  marbles.  The  formei 
altar,  of  silver,  was  burnt  in  1498,  then 
restored,  to  be  again  melted  and  destroy  * 
ed  by  the  French  in  1809.  Observe 
carefully  the  fine  door  panels,  with  six 
pictures  by  Pablo  Areggio  and  Frances* 


484 


VALENCIA — CATHEDRAL. 


co  Neapoli,  both  pupils  of  Leonardo  da 
Vinci,  1605,  to  whom  they  are  ascribed 
by  many  connoisseurs.  They  were 
painted  for  Rodrigo  Borgia  (Pope  Bor- 
gia, celebrated  alike  for  his  vices  and 
splendid  protection  to  artists).  The 
subjects  are  from  Life  of  Christ  and  the 
Virgin.  The  fresco  walls  are,  or  rather 
were,  by  the  same  artists.  Here  the 
work  of  restauracion  has  been  sad  also. 
Coro. — The  rejas  are  modern.  The 
walnut  stalls  are  classical  and  plain. 
The  trascoro  is  decorated  with  fine  ala- 
baster scenes  from  Scripture,  in  alto- 
relievo,  date  1466.  In  the  transaltar 
are  a  fine  plateresque  tomb  and  excellent 
painted  glass. 

Chapels.— These  are  mostly  of  no  in- 
terest     Notice  only   CapUla  de  San 
Pedro,   where  part  of  the  old  grand 
retablo  is  kept.     Observe  the  Saviour 
with  chalice  and  wafer,  by  Juanes,  and 
a  fine  picture  by  Ribalta.      Over  the 
baptismal  font,  a  large  Juanes,  Baptism 
of  the  Saviour.     Over  the  door  of  one 
of  the  threesacristies,  and  close  to  them, 
obs.  two  fine  Ribaltas— Christ  mocked 
before  Pilate,  and  Christ  bearing  the 
Cross,  a  copy  of  Seb.  del  Piombo  now  in 
the  Madrid   Picture -Gallery;  also   a 
Deposition  by  Bellini.    In  the  sacristies 
notice  a  Saviour  and  Lamb,  a  Holy 
Family,  a  Last  Supper,  a  Conversion  of 
St.  Paul,  and  a  Santo  Tomas  de  Villa- 
nueva,  all  by  Juanes;  also  El  Beat  o  Ribera 
by  Ribalta,  a  good  St  John  with  Lamb 
by  Antolinez,  and  a  St.  Francis  by  the 
same.      (N.B.  —  Beware    of   spurious 
Murillo8,  Raffaelles,   etc.,   which  the 
sacristan  will  probably  try  to  pass  off.) 
The   JUlicario   is    not    interesting. 
Here  is  one  of  the  numerous  authentic 
'santo  caliz,'  said,  of  course,  to  be  the 
very  one  used  at  the  Last  Supper,  but 
it  is  fine  as  a  piece  of  medieval  silver 
work ;  observe  the  pattern  also.     The 
ternos  are  truly  magnificent  some  of 
them  were  purchased  at  the  sale  of  St 


Paul' 8  (London)  Roman  Catholic  orna- 
ments, and  represent  subjects  from  life 
of  the  Saviour.  Notice  upon  a  pillar 
on  the  north  side  of  the  high  altar  the 
shields,  spurs  and  bridle  which  be- 
longed to  D.  Jayme  el  Conquistador, 
and  of  which  he  made  a  present  to  his 
master  of  the  horse,  Juan  Pertuaa,  the 
day  he  entered  Valencia. 

The  old  Chapter -room  dates  from 
1358,  and  is  the  finest  bit  of  the 
cathedral.  Observe  the  Gothic  faasem 
brought  here  from  the  cathedral  at  the 
time  of  the  previous  restoration,  and 
upon  it  a  crucifix  by  Alonso  Cano, 
well  carved  but  rather  weak,  and  un- 
pleasing  in  expression. 

Look,  in  the  altar  of  San  Miguel,  at 
a  Virgin  by  Sassoferrato— very  fine— 
and,  in  the  San  Sebastian  chapel,  at 
some  good  specimens  of  Orrente,  the 
Valencian  animal  painter.  The  best 
is  that  of  the  tutelar  saint 

Church  of  the  Colegio  de  Corpus, 
or  del  Patriarca.—A  classical  church 
founded  by  Archbishop  Juan  Ribera  in 
1586,  and  finished  in  1605.  The  chapel 
is  a  noble  structure,  designed,  it  is  said, 
by  Herrera,  and  purposely  rendered 
dark  so  as  to  make  the  ceremonies 
more  impressive.  To  the  right  of  the 
entrance  is  the  chapel  of  the  Purisima 
Concepcion,  with  fine  tapestries. 

The  Pictures.— But  the  great  and 
principal  attraction  here  is  the  pictures, 
which  are  numerous,  mostly  originals, 
and  excellent  examples  of  the  Valencian 
school,  the  Ribaltas  especially  being 
numerous  and  magnificent  In  the  first 
chapel  to  the  left,  on  entering,  is  the 
Saviour  with  Saints  visiting  San  Vi- 
cente Ferrer  on  his  sick-bed,  a  master- 
piece of  Ribalta ;  good  colouring,  grand 
composition.  On  High  Altar,  a  superh 
Last  Supper,  by  Ribalta.  The  Judas 
in  the  foreground  is  the  portrait  of  *n 
exacting  shoemaker  by  whom  he  was 


VALENCIA — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


485 


constantly  pestered  for  payment.  Most 
Venetian-like  in  colouring.  The  effect 
of  chiaroscuro  is  wonderful.  Over  this, 
but  too  high  to  he  seen  well,  is  a  Holy 
Family  by  same.  The  two  pictures  on 
the  sides  of  the  altar,  representing  Christ 
Bearing  the  Cross  and  Christ  at  the 
Column,  are  ascribed  to  Juanes.  The 
fresco  cupola  represents  the  martyrdom 
and  miracles  of  the  tutelar,  by  Bartol- 
ome*  Matarana,  and  is  indifferent.  In 
the  sanctuary  is  a  fine  Espinosa,  repre- 
senting the  Martyrdom  of  St  Peter. 
In  the  relicario,  the  altar  is  painted  by 
Juanes.  Here  is  also  kept  a  fine  ivory 
Florentine  crucifix,  which,  however,  is 
surpassed  by  the  admirable  one  in  the 
church,  which  is  among  the  finest  carv- 
ing in  Spain — the  workman  is  not 
known.  In  the  sala  capitular  are  kept 
four  good  pictures  by  Juanes  Stradanus. 
En  the  rector's  room  are  some  fine  pic- 
tures — viz.  Portrait  of  the  Founder  by 
Juan  de  Zarifiena ;  Christ  in  the  Gar- 
den of  Olives,  by  Ribalta;  Christ  at 
the  Column,  by  same ;  Portrait  of  a 
Beata,  ditto ;  a  Christ  Bearing  the 
Cross,  by  Morales. 

N.B.—At  xo  A.M.  every  Friday  morning 
an  impressive  Miserere  is  sung  at  the  high 
altar,  during  which  Ribalta's  'Last  Supper;  is 
lowered  by  machinery  and  a  figure  of  the  dying 
Saviour  upon  the  Cross  exposed  to  view.  This 
ceremony  should  by  all  means  be  attended  J 
and  at  its  close  visitors  should  pass  in  to 
the  sacristy  to  see  the  solemn  exposition  of  the 
relics. 

Santo  Tomas  de  la  Congregacion  — 
The  only  attraction  here  is  a  magnifi- 
cent Leonardo  da  Vinci,  representing  a 
Virgin  and  Child.  The  light  is  bad. 
The  chief  merit  lies  in  the  colouring, 
and  high  but  easy  finishing. 

San  Andres. — A  very  fine  plater- 
esque  portal,  the  interior  indifferent, 
but  possesses  good  pictures  by  Ribalta, 
Vergara,  Orrente,  Camaron,  and  other 
worthies  of  the  Valencian  school. 

Stos.  Juanes. — Opposite  the  Lonja; 


spoilt  by  modern  ornamentation,  and 
now  deprived  of  its  finest  pictures.  The 
cupola  frescoes  are  by  Palomino.  Obs. 
the  carved  marble  pulpit  from  Genoa. 

San  Vicente  Convent,  Plaza  de 
Tetuan.  A  good  chapter -house  and 
cloisters.  See  the  Saint's  gorgeous 
chapel,  and  the  fine  Capilla  de  los  Reyes 
(of  Aragon)  with  the  monuments  of 
Rodrigo  Mendoza  and  his  wife. 

The  Churches  of  the  San  Esteban  and 
Sta.  Catalina  were  formerly  mosques, 
so  was  El  Temple,  so  called  because  it 
once  belonged  to  the  Knights  Templars. 
Oasa  Nalalicia,  where  the  popular  and 
much-revered  patron  of  the  town,  San 
Vicente  Ferrer,  was  born,  was  situated 
Calle  del  Mar  No.  91 ;  the  site  is 
marked  by  an  oratorio. 

San  Nicolas. — A  museum  of  Juanes. 
The  best  are  the  Cenacolo  and  Descendi- 
miento  near  the  high  altar.  Notice  also 
eight  small  paintings  over  an  altar  on 
the  north  side,  and  the  heads  of  Christ 
and  the  Virgin,  in  the  sacristy. 

Picture  Gallery. — Open  from  0 
A.M.  to  4  p.m.  (50c);  Mon.  1-4  ;  Sun. 
10-2  (free).  This  Museo,  established  m 
the  old  Convent  del  Carmen,  contains 
about  1500  pictures,  and  is  the  most 
important  provincial  gallery  in  the 
country,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Museo  at  Seville.  It  consists  of  a 
large  room  devoted  to  contemporaneous 
paintings,  a  small  archaeological  col- 
lection, and,  for  the  main  purposes,  a 
large  central  salon  with  inner  courts 
and  open  vestibules.  The  Valencian 
School  of  Painting  [see  Introduction  p. 
lxxii]  can  be  better  studied  here,  in  its 
home,  than  in  any  other  part  of  the 
country.  The  .  works  of  Espinosa, 
Ribalta,  Orrente,  Borras,  March,  Ver- 
gara, Zarinefia  will  be  found  mostly  in 
the  centre  room ;  the  fine  triptychs 
in  the  inner  courts. 


486 


VALENCIA — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


The  entrance  is  by  the  door  inscribed 
Escuela  General  de  Bellas  Aries  (the 
catalogue,  as  usual,  is  'in  preparation'), 
from  whence  we  turn  into  the  east 
cloister,  the  west  cloister  being  closed 
— destroyed  in  1896.  Taming  now  to 
the  left  before  entering  the  great 
central  salon,  we  find  the  school  of  con- 
temporaneous painting.  On  the  right- 
hand  wall  on  entering,  note,  Francisco 
Domingo,  'The  last  day  of  Sagunto'; 
Joaquin  Sorolla,  '£1  Palleter';  Ignacio 
Pinazo,  'Death  of  James  I.  of  Aragon,' 
and  '  Landing  of  Francis  I.  of  France 
at  Valencia* ;  SS.  Tecla  and  Marianas 
(Domingo);  B,  Ferrandiz,  'Tribunal 
de  las  Aguas'  (see  p.  490);  Salvador 
Abril,  'The  open  sea/  The  East 
end  is  occupied  by  Jos4  Benlliure*8 
fine  '  Vision  of  the  Colosseum/  with 
a  ghostly  procession  of  Christian 
martyrs ;  the  West  end  by  F.  Amerigo's 
'Sacking  of  Rome*  (in  1527)  'and 
one  or  two  notable  paintings  by 
Cubells. 

Through  this  salon  we  enter  a  corridor 
devoted  to  archaeological  and  architec- 
tural remains.  Note  especially  a  fine 
baptismal  font  of  the  13th  century; 
some  Roman  amphorae  ;  a  relief  from  a 
5th  century  sepulchre  found  at  Jdtiva; 
an  alabaster  figure  of  Hugo  de  Moncada 
(16th  century) ;  a  statue  of  Miguel 
Amador  (17th  century) ;  a  Virgin  and 
Child  (in  wood)  of  16th  century;  an 
alabaster  San  Vicente  (16th  century); 
cannon  and  cannon  balls  (16th 
century) ;  a  15th  century  figure  of  St 
Gregory. 

Returning  now  through  the  modern 
salon  we  turn,  left,  into  the  great 
central  room.  Here,  on  the  E.  (left 
hand)  wall  notice :  Juan  Macip  (Juanes, 
or  Joanes,  b.  1507,  d.  1579),  678,  '  Be- 
trothal of  St.  Agnes ' ;  599,  an  '  Ecce 
Homo';  626,  an  'Assumption,'  on  a 
yellow  background.  The  angels  are 
admirable,  the  expression  equally  so, 


and  the  colouring  almost  Venetian. 
The  Saviour's  Head,  on  the  right  of 
the  Queen  of  Spain's  portrait,  is  in- 
jured. Zarinefia, '  SS.  John  and  Peter' ; 
Juanes,  'SS.  Vincent  Ferrer  and  Vin- 
cent Martyr,'  with  God  the  Father 
above;  Ribalta,  518,  'St.  Francis  em- 
bracing Christ  upon  the  Cross,'  remind- 
ing one  of  an  almost  similar  subject  by 
Murillo,  at  'the  Provincial  Picture- 
Gallery,  Seville  (the  colouring  has 
become  too  dark) ;  also  a  '  Virgin  and 
Child.'  Espinosa,  'Christ  appearing 
to  San  Pedro  Nolasco ' ;  '  San  Luis 
Beltran ' — a  cavalier  firing  a  pistol  at 
the  saint,  who  had  reproved  him. 
Though  injured,  the  picture  possesses 
most  of  the  qualities  of  this  painter- 
bold  and  powerful  drawing,  Michael 
Angelesque  attitudes,  anatomy  and 
expression;  a  'Holy  Family';  Ribalta, 
Nos.  646,  655,  699,  SS.  Paul,  Peter  and 
Bruno  (for  S.  John  see  on  opposite 
wall);  Juan  Ribalta,  617,  a  'Cruci- 
fixion'— better  drawn  than  coloured; 
painted  at  eighteen.  On  the  west 
wall  note :  F.  Ribalta,  688,  John  the 
Baptist';  Ribera,  711,  'Sta.  Teresa'— 
good,  but  repainted ;  602  'St.  Jerome'; 
689,  'Martyrdom  of  St.  Sebastian'; 
Ribalta,  611,  'Coronation  of  the  Virgin,' 
exquisitely  finished,  small  in  size  ;  702, 
a  '  Last  Supper ' ;  Fspinosa,  146,  St 
Louis  of  Toulouse ' ;  387,  '  Jeronimo 
Mos' ;  150,  'Mass  of  S.  Pedro  Nolasco' ; 
606,  '  Communion  of  the  Magdalen. 
'  The  white  cloth  in  her  hand,  and  the 
head  and  garments  of  the  priest,  are 
admirable'  (Hoskins).  The  priest  is 
a  portrait  of  the  ecclesiastic  who 
ordered  the  picture ;  Esteban  March, 
Nos.  679,  330,  669,  661,  four  fine 
battle  scenes,  with  great  movement 
and  life. 

Turning  now  to  the  S.E.  corner  vesti- 
bule (Angulo  J.)  note :  685,  a  portrait 
by  Ribalta ;  674,  a  copy  of  Velasquez's 
portrait  of  himself;  Goya,  260,  675, 


i 

J 


VALENCIA— PICTURE-GALLERY. 


487 


portraits  of  the  painter  Bayeu  and  the 
engraver  Esteve ;  Coello,  683,  a  portrait; 
also  some  Flemish  17th  century  still 
life.  AnguloIL  (N.E.  corner),  Juanes, 
521,  the  Saviour ;  also  cabinet  pieces 
by  Borras.  Angulo  III.  (N.  W.  corner), 
Juanes,  612,  a  fine  '  Last  Supper '  and 
some  works  by  Orrente — St.  Domingo 
calling  a  man  to  life  and  being 
accused  as  his  murderer.  'Procession 
in  honour  of  the  Virgin,'  etc.  An- 
gulo  IV.  (S.W.  corner),  Andrea  del 
Sarto  (?),  663,  a  ' Virgin  and  Child ' ; 
333,  a  copy  of  Correggio's  'Holy 
Family.' 

The  inner  courts  contain  interesting 
work.  In  the  left  court  (east)  notice 
some  fine  paintings  of  the  14th  and  15th 
centuries;  a  large  altar-piece  with  scenes 
from  the  life  of  Christ ;  four  panels  re- 
presenting St.  Thomas,  the  Miraculous 
Draught  of  Fishes,  the  Resurrection, 
and  the  Risen  Christ  appearing  to  the 
Blessed  Virgin.  The  western  (right 
hand)  court  has  later  work  (15th  and 
16th  centuries).  Note  especially  a 
fine  winged  altar-piece ;  three  curious 
pictures  by  Bosch  (El  Bosco),  once  at 
the  Convent  of  St.  Domingo,  repre- 
senting the  'Crowning  with  Thorns,' 
'Christ  at  the  Pillar,'  'Christ  in  the 
Garden/ — intended  to  ridicule  the  usual 
exaggerated  types  represented  in  holy 
subjects,  Juan  de  Mabuse,  'Adoration 
of  the  Child';  Pinturicchio,  a  'Virgin 
and  Child,'  with  the  pious  donor, 
Cardinal  Rodrigo  Borgia,  and  on  the 
north  wall,  an  altar  of  St.  Teola  (15th 
century). 

In  the  Salon  de  Juntas,  the  Council 
Room  of  the  Academy,  may  be  seen  a 
series  of  portraits,  of  no  great  value. 
One,  however,  No.  756,  of  Ferdinand 
VII.,  is  interesting. 

The  local  school  of  Valencian  paint- 
ing is  now  too  apt  to  be  undervalued 
and  overlooked.    One  may  perambulate 


these  now  really  well-arranged  rooms 
for  hours  without  meeting  a  soul  save 
the  sleepy  attendant ;  and  the  loss  is 
great,  both  to  Valencia  herself — once 
a  great  art  centre — and  to  the  traveller. 
The  founder  of  the  school,  Juan  Macip 
(Juan  de  Juanes,  or  Joanes),  who  was 
born  at  Fuente  la  Higuera  in  1523, 
and  his  immediate  successors,  the  two 
Ribaltas,  Ribera,  Espinosa,  Orrente  and 
March,  are  well  known  all  over  Spain, 
and  even  in  foreign  galleries  ;  though 
it  must  be  confessed  that  their  poverty 
of  style,  wherein  academic  correctness 
and  minutiae  of  finish  are  combined 
with  tenderness  of  expression,  reveals 
itself  directly  in  the  work  of  their 
fellow  -  countrymen  and  imitators, 
Juanes'  finest  pieces  here  are  his 
studies  of  our  Saviour  (especially  two, 
upon  a  gold  ground),  La  Cena  (612) 
La  Purfsima  (produced,  it  is  said, 
after  long  preparation,  oonfession, 
fasting  and  prayer),  an  Assumption- 
very  effective,  with  its  yellow  back- 
ground— and  the  St.  Francisco  de 
Paula  leaning  on  his  staff.  Of  Fran- 
cisco Ribalta  the  best  examples  are, 
'St.  Francis  embracing  Christ  upon 
the  Cross,'  the  Virgen  de  Porta  Coeli 
(the  Child  very  fine),  and  (688)  John 
the  Baptist ;  of  Juan  Ribalta,  a  Cruci- 
fixion (617),  four  studies  of  saints, 
SS.  John,  Paul,  Peter,  Bruno,  and 
the  ' Coronation  of  the  Virgin'  (611). 
Ribera  is  to  be  judged  here  by  a  fine 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Sebastian  (689)  and 
(711)  Sta.  Teresa.  Espinosa,  Orrente 
and  March  are  all  well  represented  :— 
the  first  especially  by  his  'St.  Pedro 
Nolasco,'  'San  Luis  de  Beltran,'  the 
'Communion  of  the  Magdalen';  Orrente 
by  his  'St.  Domingo'  and  the  'Pro- 
cession in  honour  of  the  Virgin,' 
and  March  by  his  four  battle 
scenes. 

Besides  the  works  here  referred  to 
there  is  a  mass  of  rubbish,  and  some  few 


488 


VALENCIA — PICTURE-GALLERY. 


paintings  illustrative  of  the  Valencian 
School,  but  of  small  merit,  which  will 
be  noted  in  passing — paintings  of  Fray 
Antonio  de  Villanueva  (born  1714),  of 
Gaspar  de  la  Haerta  (1645-1714),  of 
Josef  de  Vergara  (born  1726),  of  Vicente 
Lopez  and  Camaron.  The  Museo  was 
rescued  from  its  former  evil  estate  only 
in  1895,  and  the  position  of  the  pictures 
is  being  continually  changed.  An  at- 
tendant, however,  is  always  on  the  spot, 
who  will  point  out  any  special  works 
that  may  be  in  request.  The  Juanes, 
Ribaltas,  and  Espinosas  apart,  the  most 
interesting  portions  of  this  Valencian 
collection — if  one  has  seen  the  Madrid 
and  Sevillan  Museos  —  will  be:  (1) 
the  splendid  collection  of  triptychs 
and  other  old  paintings  upon  wood, 
brought  here  from  the'churches,  and 
well  arranged  in  the  two  smaller 
inner  salons ;  (2)  the  new  salon  de- 
voted to  modern  Valencian  art.  Here 
may  be  seen,  perhaps,  the  best  Spanish 
work  of  the  day ;  that  of  Domingo, 
Oubells,  and  Pinazo  being  especially 
worthy  of  study. 

The  Academia  de  Bellas  Artes,  in 
the  same  locality,  was  established  by 
Charles  III.,  whence  its  appendage  '  de 
San  Carlos.'  The  pupils,  who  number 
200  to  300,  are  allowed  to  study  gratis. 

Private  Galleries.  —  There  are 
several,  as  the  Valencians  were  always 
a  polite,  refined  people,  fond  of  art 
always,  and  at  one  time  not  less  so  of 
books.  These  galleries  may  be  visited 
on  application  by  writing  or  card. 

At  the  Presidio,  in  the  Governor's 
private  rooms,  there  are  also  some  pic- 
tures, amongst  which  several  Ribaltas. 
Observe  especially  a  Deposition  arid  a 
Replica  of  the  Museo' a  Crucifixion  ;  a 
Crucifixion  by  Espinosa;  a  good  March; 
by  Joanes,  St  Jerome,  Sta.  Armonica, 
San  Francisco  de  Assis,  Sta.  Clara — 
very  highly  finished. 

Picture-Gallery  of  Oonde  de  Villareal. 

A  beautiful  Joanest  representing  three 


subjects- viz.  Virgin  and  Child,  St 
John  and  Evangelists.  St.  Joseph  and 
St  Catherine. 

Count  of  Parsers  Gallery. — A  fine 
Espinosa,  Deposition  from  the  Cross; 
four  Battle  Scenes,  by  Juan  de  Toledo, 
a  Valencian  painter  (born  1611) ;  a 
Supper  at  Emmaus,  by  Ribalta. 

In  the  palace  of  Marquis  de  la  Romana 
are  six  excellent  Camarons,  and  several 
Joanes'  and  Goyas. 

N.B. — These  three  private  collections 
are  now  dispersed,  as  is  also  the  fine 
gallery  of  Sefior  Campo  (1898). 

Iionja.— This  building  was  raised  by 
Compte  in  1482,  on  the  site  of  the 
Alcazar,  built  by  a  daughter  of  the 
Moorish  king  Al-hakem,  and  which 
the  Cid  inhabited.  It  is  Gothic,  and 
very  effective.  In  the  interior  is  a 
spacious  noble  hall,  with  an  elegant 
entrance,  130  feet  long  by  75  feet  wide, 
which  is  divided  into  three  naves  by 
most  elegant  fluted  spiral  Salominic 
pillars,  of  which  only  eight  stand 
isolated.  The  upper  stage  of  the  left 
wing  is  elaborately  decorated,  and  is 
terminated  by  a  striking  parapet,  with 
circular  medallions  enclosing  heads. 
The  general  effect  of  the  edifice  is  most 
pleasing.  The  building  is  used  as  the 
Silk  Exchange.  The  garden,  with 
shady  walks,  is  full  of  orange-trees  and 
sweet-scented  flowers. 

The  Audienda  is  a  noble  building, 
spacious  and  lofty,  of  16th  century. 
In  the  halls  inside  are  a  series  of 
not  indifferent  portraits  of  Valencian 
worthies.  Observe  especially  the  stately 
Salon  de  Cortes,  with  its  curious  frescoes 
by  Zarinena  and  Peralta  (1492).  The 
rich  ceiling  is  noteworthy. 

Aduana, — The  Custom-House  dates 
1758.  It  is  now  the  Fabrica  de  Cigar- 
ros,  employs  8500  women,  and  pro- 
duces about  120,000  lbs.  of  tobacco. 
Permission  is  granted  by  the  director 
to  visit  it 


VALENCIA. 


489 


The  silk-manufacturers  are  active, 
and  some  800,000  lbs.  are  yearly  pro- 
duced, with  which  velvets  and  other 
stuffs  are  made.  The  silk  produced  in 
this  hot  climate  is  very  fine  and  delicate, 
but  the  stuffs  are  inferior  in  workman- 
ship to  Lyons  and  England,  and  are 
not  lasting. 

Libraries.— The  Public  Library  of 
the  University  consists  of  40,000  vols. 
A  valuable  collection  of  Bibles,  early 
editions  of  the  Fathers  of  the  Church  ; 
an  excellent  and  precious  collection 
of  books  of  chivalry  worthy  of  Don 
Quixote ;  a  very  early  edition  of 
Tirant  lo  Blanch ;  the  Poem  of  La 
Concepcion  de  la  Virgen,  printed  in 
1474.  It  is  also  very  rich  in  editions 
of  16th  century.  Open  daily  from 
9  a.m.  to  1  F.M. 

Bihlioteca  del  Arzdbispado.  —  The 
palace  was  formerly  a  corn-exchange. 
The  chapel  contains  some  good  pic- 
tures. The  library  possesses  10,500 
vols.  ;  open  from  9  to  12  A.M.,  and 
three  hours  in  the  afternoon ;  admit- 
tance gratis.  See  the  few  but  valuable 
MSS.  which  have  been  saved  from  the 
fire  in  1812.  The  fine  private  library 
of  Sefior  D.  Vicente  Salva  numbers 
8000  vols.,  and  possesses  some  curious 
MSS.  and  excellent  specimens  of  old 
Spanish  binding. 

Private  Houses.— We  recommend 
the  facade  of  house  of  Marques  de 
Dos  Aguas  (Casade  las  Rocas)  for  its 
excellent  sculpture,  though  it  borders 
on  the  grotesque ;  that  of  Conde 
de  Hnohermoso,  La  Romana,  and  the 
earlier  ones  here  and  there  in  Calle  de 
Caballeros.  The  artist  should  not  fail 
to  visit  the  Mercado  at  eight  in  the 
morning,  Plaza  de  Sta.  Catalina,  the 
portion  or  barrio,  N.E.,  between  the 
Puertas  del  Mar  and  del  Real. 

Gardens,  Promenades,  Theatres. 
— There  are  some  very  pretty  gardens 
in  the  environs,  interesting  for  speci- 


mens of  African  and  American  plants, 
which  grow  here  with  all  the  luxuri- 
ance of  their  native  climes.  Visit, 
especially,  El  Botanico,  W.  of  the  city, 
well  kept,  and  rich  in  exotics  and 
cacti;  that  of  the  University  (a  card 
of  director  required);  of  'Roca,'  in  the 

Calle  Sagunto ;  of  D.  Andres  Sancho, 
of  Count  de  Parsent,  Campos,  etc. 
The  old  Jardin  de  la  Reina,  with  its 
orange  trees,  is  now  done  away  with  ; 
the  Jardin  de  Aclimitacion  a  thing  of 
the  past — or  future. 

The  most  fashionable  paseo  in  winter 
is  the  Alameda,  from  3  to  5  p.m.,  N.E. 
of  the  city,  between  two  bridges  on  the 
Turia,  driving  and  walking.  The  driv- 
ing, or  rather  standing,  of  carriages  in 
a  row,  leading  to  open-air  tertulias,  is 
quite  a  sight.  The  picturesque,  but 
dusty  and  windy,  Glorieta,  with  its  box 
and  orange  trees  and  palms,  formerly 
a  fashionable  summer  promenade,  is 
now  given  over  to  loungers,  nursemaids 
and  children. 

The  Valencians  are  verv  fond  of 
cock-fighting  and  pigeon-shooting,  so 
amateurs  may  expect  some  amuse- 
ment at  the  Pecheria  on  Thursdays, 
and  Renidero  de  Gallos  in  the  Llano  de 
la  Zaidia,  on*  Thursdays  and  Sunday 
afternoons. 

The  Plaza  de  Toros  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  Spain,  and  was  built  1850. 
The  corridas  here  are  excellent,  the 
Valencians  being  fond  of  everything 
that  leads  to  fight,  blood,  and  death. 
Their  gesticulations,  their  excitement 
at  these  spectacles,  are  very  local. 
iMare  Deu  1*  '  Recontrapacho  de  c.,' 
and  other  similar  'desahogos,'  fill  the 
air. 

Gates  and  Walls — These  have  been 
mostly  destroyed,  unhappily ;  but 
notice  the  Puertas  de  Serranos  and  Del 
Cuarte,  both  splendid  specimens  of 
solid  and  yet  artful  work,  the  former 
of  the  14th?  the  latter  of  the  15th  cent 


490 


VALENCIA. 


When  at  El  Temple  observe  upon 
the  church  wall,  Plaza  de  Trinitorios, 
an  inscription  marking  the  site  of  the 
palace  and  gate  of  the  Cid  (Bab-cl- 
Schadchar)  destroyed  in  1865. 

Great  Holidays. — The  principal  is 
El  Dia  de  San  Vicente,  the  tutelar  of 
Valencia,  celebrated  eight  days  after 
Easter, and  commemorated  with  dressed 
characters,  etc.  The  miracles  of  the 
saint,  which  are  represented  in  the 
streets  during  his  '  Novenario,'  must  be 
studied  for  their  mediaeval  character. 
The  principal  exhibitions  must  be 
sought  in  the  Mercado  Grande,  the 
Plaza  de  la  Congregation  and  the  Tros 
Alt ;  also  in  the  church  of  San  Esteban, 
where  the  saint  was  baptized.  The 
processions  at  Corpus  are  very  in- 
teresting. 

Direotory. — Consuls.  —  H.B.W  8 — 
A.  F.  Ivens,  Esq.,  office  in  the  Calle 
del  Mar  59.  France. — M.  C.  Laurent. 
Austria. — Theodor  Mertens,  Esq. 
Belgium. — Henry  Trenor,  Esq.,  Con- 
gregacion  1.  Germany. — Max  Buch, 
De  Cuarte,  136.  U. S.A.  —Theodor 
Mertens,  Esq. 

Bankers.  —  Messrs.  Trenor,  Calle 
Trinquete  de  Caballeros  No.  8,  an  old- 
established  English  house  ;  Messrs. 
MacAndrews  and  Co.,  Libreros  1 ; 
Credit  Lyonnais,  Calle  de  San  Vi- 
cente. 

Money-Changer. — Jose*  Solano,  Plaza 
Sta.  Ca talma  15. 

Doctors. — Molincr,  Calle  Don  Juan 
de  Austria  17  ;  Magraner,  Cruz  6. 

Roncal,  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitu- 
tion, is  a  good  apothecary. 

Booksellers. — Aguilar,  PI.  de  la  Con- 
stitution, Marti,  Zaragoza  15 ;  Ortega, 
Bajada  de  San  Francisco. 

Gloves. — C.  Zaragoza,  24. 

Perfumer  and  Hairdresser. — Tiffon, 
46  Calle  del  Mar. 

Albacete  Knives  and  Daggers. — Good 
specimens,  half  a  yard  long,  for  40r., 


may  be  had  in  shops  in  Calle  de  San 
Vicente. 

Silks. — Pamplo  Calle  de  San  Vicente 
49  and  51. 

Manias  Valencianas. — These  various 
coloured  Oriental  plaids  or  blankets 
are  often  purchased  for  door-hangings, 
sofas,  etc.  There  are  several  good  shops 
in  the  Calle  Lonja  del  Aceite  (which 
see  en  passant),  near  the  market  A 
good  ordinary  manta,  including  tassels, 
may  be  bought  for  17  pes.,  the  largest 
and  best  to  be  had  for  $8  (40  pes.) ;  it 
must  then  be  of  the  stuff  called  tela  de 
la  rosa.  The  fringe  is  called  el  JUco, 
and  the  tasselated  work  el  goto.  They 
can  be  sent  from  the  shop  to  Liverpool, 
cost  little,  and  are  free  of  duty,  but  pay 
in  France.  The  blue  Morellana  blankets 
are  much  cheaper. 

Azulejos  are  very  well  made  here; 
visit  the  fabrics  at  Manises,  a  village  in 
the  environs. 

Local  Jewels. — Visit  the  Plateria,  for 
the  local  ear-rings  worn  by  the  peasantry, 
who  formerly  wore  precious  stones  of 
great  value;  some  may  still  be  seen, 
but  are  fast  disappearing.  Observe  the 
different  shapes  de  uva,  de  manto,  cU 
barco,  the  silver-gilt  comb  (la  pintela), 
etc. 

Oranges.— These  are  sold  outside  the 
gates  for  a  mere  song,  and  in  the  Mer- 
cado for  lr.  to  2r.  a-dozen.  They  are 
placed  over  a  hoop,  and  those  that  fall 
through  are  left  aside.  They  are  ex- 
quisite. Melons  and  sandias  are  here 
in  their  native  land.  Observe  how  they 
are  piled,  how  weighed.  The  Valencian 
declares  he  sees  three  uses  in  a  sandia 
(water-melon) — eating,  drinking,  and 
washing  his  face. 

On  Thursday,  at  12  o'clock,  tourists 
should  not  fail  to  witness  the  sitting  of 
the  Tribunal  de  las  Aguas,  under  the 
porch  of  the  cathedral,  and  which  de- 
cides, without  appeal  on  all  matters, 
disagreements,  etc.,  connected  with  the 


VALENCIA — EXCURSIONS. 


491 


distribution  of  water  for  irrigation  of  the 
Huerta.  It  is  composed  of  seven  Sin- 
dicos  elected  by  and  among  the  horte- 
lanos  themselves.  This  curious  demo- 
cratic institution,  which  has  always 
exercised  a  salutary  influence,  was 
established  by  the  Moors,  and  has  been 
respected  by  every  Government. 

Excursions  to  Sagunto,  Burgasot, 
Lake  of  Albufera,  etc. 

Sagunto. — By  rail,  1st  cl.,  3  pes.; 
2d  cl.,  2  pes.;  3d  cl.,  5r.;  four  trains 
per  day ;  time  about  1£  hours. 
The  fifth  station  upon  the  Val- 
encia and  Barcelona  Hne.  Antiquaries 
should  not  leave  Valencia  without 
visiting  the  site  and  ruins  of  Sagun- 
tum.  Inn — close  by  station,  fair,  clean. 
Pop.,  6300 ;  on  the  Palancia,  and 
once  a  seaport,  but  the  sea  gradually 
retired  3  m.  farther.  In  the  space  be- 
tween the  shore  and  the  town,  excava- 
tions, pursued  without  funds,  method, 
or  intelligent  direction,  turn  up  now 
and  then  Roman  remains  of  value  and 
interest  It  is  a  virgin  land  of  ruins, 
worthy  of  a  Botta  or  a  Layard,  but,  in 
the  words  of  Longfellow,  is  truly  past 
here  and  *  cannot  come  back  again ; ' 
and  one  of  the  finest  mosaics  in  the  world, 
found  out  by  chance  in  1795,  as  the 
Catalunaroad  was  undergoing  repairs, 
has  disappeared,  periere  ruincef  It  was 
24  ft  long  by  12  ft.  wide,  and  repre- 
sented Bacchus  riding  a  tiger  and  hold- 
ing the  thyrsus,  amid  wine-growers, 
bacchantes,  etc  The  modern  town 
(Murviedro  is  derived  from  muri  veteres, 
muros  viejos)  is  miserable,  and  silent, 
as  befits  the  tomb  wherein  sleep  the 
glory  of  Rome  and  the  bones  of  genera- 
tions of  heroes.  SagwrUum  was  founded 
by  the  Greeks  of  Zante.  Its  siege  by 
Hannibal  can  only  be  compared,  for  the 
heroism  of  the  inhabitants,  to  those  of 
Jerusalem,  Numantia,  and  modern 
Zaragoza.     The  town  succumbed,  but 


was  the  cause  of  the  second  Punic  war. 
It  was  rebuilt  by  the  Romans,  and  was 
much  celebrated  for  its  edifices,  strong 
position,  its  mint — which  struck  twenty- 
seven  different  coins — its  theatre,  and 
red  pottery,  the  calices  Saguntini  of 
Martial  (xvi.  108).    ' 

The  principal  ruins  are  :  —  The 
Theatre,  on  a  slope  above  the  town. 
It  belongs  to  the  Tuscan  order  of  archi- 
tecture, and  is  built  with  small  bluish 
stones,  beautifully  cemented,  so  as  to 
appear  like  huge  entire  blocks.  It  is 
ascribed  by  some  antiquaries  to  the 
Scipios,  by  others  to  the  Emperor 
Claudius  Germanicus.  It  is  perhaps 
the  best  preserved  specimen  that  can  be 
seen  anywhere,  not  excepting  Italy.  All 
the  principal  distributions  of  the  Roman 
theatre  are  extant — the  scenium,  pro- 
scenium, postcenium,  chorus,  and  or- 
chestra ;  the  thirty-three  tiers  of  grees 
(gradus)  on  which  the  spectators  sat  and 
stood,  the  especial  entrances  for  the 
knights,  magistrates,  people,  women, 
etc.  It  could  easily  hold  4000  persons. 
Castillo.— Here  are  traces  of  Sagun- 
tine  walls,  serving  as  foundations  for 
subsequent  Roman  works,  upon  which 
the  Moors  have  built,  and  then  the 
Spaniards,  strata  and  substrata  of  the 
convulsions,  revolutions,  primary,  secun- 
dary,  tertiary  periods  of  Spain  histori- 
cal, alike  almost  in  formation  to  those 
which  geologists  show  us  in  the  earth. 
The  citadel  occupies  the  site  of  the 
Saguntine  keep,  and  the  castle  that  of  a 
Roman  temple.  Here  the  traveller's 
attention  is  drawn  to  a  wonderful  echo, 
which  beats  in  sonorousness  and  extent 
all  the  lions  of  Switzerland,  Savoy,  and 
Ireland  ;  and  even  truer  than  some  in 
the  latter  country.  There  are  a  few 
mutilated  fragments  of  sculpture  in  the 
gobernador's  rooms.  The  views  from 
the  castle  are  extensive,  but  the  scene 
is  one  of  desolation  and  neglect  The 
Circus  Maximus  has  almost  all  disap- 


492 


VALENCIA — EXCURSIONS. 


peared,  and  orchards  and  weeds  entomb 
the  ruins. 

To  Burgasot. — A  favourite  summer 
resort  of  the  Valencians.  Tram  and 
rail  at  frequent  intervals.  The  only 
attractions  are  the  Moorish  mazmarras, 
or  caves,  where  the  corn  was  and  is 
still  preserved  as  in  granaries,  free 
from  damp,  rats,  insects,  and  man. 
The  local  name  is  Siches,  the  Spanish, 
Silos ;  they  number  forty-one  alma- 
cones  or  crypts,  very  deep,  very 
spacious  under  ground,  and  covered 
by  a  black  and  blue  jasper  pavement, 
which  serves  as  a  pasco,  and  from 
which  the  view  of  Valencia  and  sur- 
rounding orchards  is  fine  and  pleasant ; 
they  can  hold  22,270  cahices  of  corn. 

To  El  Grao. — By  frequent  trains, 
3|m.,  in  a  few  minutes :  also  by  tram 
(15c.)  from  the  city  issuing  by  the 
Glorieta.  Or  a  pleasant  drive  in  a 
tartana  for  2 J  pes.  El  Grao  {Grado, 
Grades,  steps  to  the  sea) — 9000  in- 
habitants. The  summer  lounge  of  the 
Valencians,  who  come  for  sea-bathing 
to  the  Cabana],  or  the  two  bathing 
resorts  of  'La  Florida'  and  'La  Estelle.' 
(Tram  10c.  to  Cabailal  from  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Valencian  steam  tram). 
The  town  itself  has  no  attractions,  but 
the  plane -shaded  road  from  the  city, 
with  its  gardens  and  country  houses, 
is  alone  worth  seeing.  The  port  is 
not  completed,  but  works  on  a  con- 
siderable scale  are  going  on  to  enlarge 
it,  and  two  piers  are  to  prolong 
the  Muelle.  The  Temporada  de  los 
Banos  is  very  gay.  The  baths  are 
thatched  with  rice-straw,  and  are  very 
superior  to  any  on  that  coast,  but  the 
water  to  Englishmen  will  appear  luke- 
warm. Boats  from  and  to  steamers,  a 
tariff,  4r.  each  person  ;  2r.  for  a  port- 
manteau, etc. 

To  Lake  of  Albufera.—'By  rail  (Valencia 
and  Madrid  line)  to  as  far  as  Silla,  which  is 
close  to  the  lake,  13  kil.,  in  half  an  hour,  for 
pes.  x.55 ;  X.20,  etc.  This  great  lagoon,  which 
must   some   day  or  other   be    dried   up  for 


agricultural  purposes,  is  some  27  m.  in  circum- 
ference, 12  ft.  being  its  greatest  depth.  Nine 
hours  are  required  to  go  round  ;  $\  hours  by 
the  land  side,  and  i£  hours  by  the  sea  side.  It 
communicates  with  the  sea  by  a  narrow  open- 
ing on  the  S.,  which  is  often  choked  up,  but 
can  be  opened  or  shut  at  pleasure.  The  lake 
is  fed  by  the  Turia  and  Acequia  del  Rey.  It 
belonged  once  to  the  Condes  de  Las  Torres, 
was  given  to  Godoy  (Principe  de  la  Paz), 
and  now  is  the  property  of  the  Crown.  Suchet, 
in  i8ia,  was  made  by  Napoleon  Doc  de 
l'Albufera,  after  the  capture  of  Valencia.  It 
was  at  that  time  valued  at  about  ^300,000. 
The  lagoon  fills  up  in  winter,  and  then  becomes 
a  wonderful  preserve  of  fish  and  wild  fowl 
There  are  upwards  of  seventy  sorts  of  birds 
who  bred  in  the  reeds  and  bush,  and  in  such 
myriads  that  the  heaven  is  sometimes  darkened 
by  their  flight;  wild  ducks,  wild  geese,  the 
foja,  etc.,  are  most  abundant  and  excellent 
The  dehesa  between  the  sea  and  lake  teems 
with  gallinetas  (woodcocks),  rabbits,  etc  On 
nth  and  25th  November  shooting  and  fishing 
are  allowed,  when  500  or  600  boats  skim  the 
water,  and  the  ague-stricken  farmers  living  in 
Chozas  see  a  merrymaking  and  a  rain  of 
Pesetas.  Besides  these  public  days,  shooting 
permits  are  sometimes  granted,  by  apply- 
ing to  Intendente  del  Real  Patrimonio,  at 
Valencia. 

Books  of  Reference.  —  1.  '  Observaciones 
sobre  la  Historia  Nat.,  Geogr.  Agric,  Pobla- 
cion  y  Frutos  del  Reino  de  Valencia,'  by 
Joseph  Cavanilles ;  Madrid,  Imprenta  Real,  2 
fol.  vols,  with  prints. 

3.  'Valencia,'  in  the  series  EsfaMa,  pub- 
lished by  Cortezo  (Barcelona,  1895). 

3.  *  Disertacion  Historica  de  la  Festividady 
Procesion  del  Corpus,'  at  Valencia;  explaining 
the  symbols,  fasos,  etc ;  most  curious  and 
interesting,  by  Mar.  Ortiz;  Valencia,  Orga, 
1789,  4to. 

Tarragona,  —  1.  '  Tarragona  antigua  J 
moderna,'  by  D.  E.  Morera  (1894),  and  the 
works  of  D.  Buenaventura  Hernandez. 

2. '  Dialogo  sobre  los  Barros  Antiguos  de 
Tarragona,'  by  Foguet,  MS.  Establishes  the 
difference  between  the  Barros  Tarraconenses 
and  those  of  Murviedro,  as  Spanish  antiqua- 
ries usually  give  the  name  of  Saguntinos 
to  all  those  produced  during  the  Roman 
period. 

3.  'Disertacion  sobre  Barros  y  Alfarerias  de 
Tarragona  en  tiempo  de  los  Romanos,'  by 
Gonz  de  Posada,  fol.  MS.  Acad.  History 
(1087),  with  some  700  marks  and  signs  of  the 
fabrics,  A  Icalleres,  etc.  Full  of  erudition  and 
importance. 


VALLADOLID. 


493 


Poblet   (Monastery   near   Tarragona).  —  i. 

Poblet,  su  Origen,  Fundacion,  Bellezas,'  etc., 
by  A.  de  Bofarull  y  Brock ;  Tarragona,  Ant. 
Boix,  1848,  8vo. 

'Las  Ruinas  de  Poblet,'  by  D.  Victor 
Balaguer  (Madrid,  Dubrull,  1885). 

Teruel.—  t.  l  Los  Araantes  de  Teruel,  epo- 
peya  tragica,'  by  Yaque  de  Salas ;  Valencia, 
Mey,  1616,  8vo. 

3.  Historia  de  los  Amantes  de  Teruel,  con 
documentos  justificativos/  etc. ,  by  Gabarda  ; 
Valencia,  Orga,  1842,  8vo. 

VALLA 

The  ancient  capital  of  Castile.  Capital 
of  province  of  same  name;  bishop's 
see,  suffragan  of  Toledo;  pop.  about 
67,000. 

Boutes  and  Conveyances.  —  (See 
chart.)  From  Madrid  by 
rail ;  distance,  242  kil.  ; 
time,  6£  hrs.  by  express,  8 
hrs.  by  mail  train ;  fares,  1st  cl.,  pes. 
27.85 ;  2d  cl.,  pes.  20.90 ;  five  trains  per 
day.  Buffets  at  Avila  and  Medina  del 
Campo.  Northern  line  station  at  Mad- 
rid. (See  for  details  of  luggage-tickets 
on  this  line,  Madrid  and  Bayonne.) 
For  information  respecting  the  route, 
see  Madrid  from  Bayonne, 

From  Bayonne  by  rail. — Bayonne 
to  Irun,  French  service  and  Paris : 
hours,  1  hr.  15  m.,  6  trains  a  day ; 
fares,  4f.  25c,  3f.  20c,  2f.  35c. ;  dis- 
tance, 23J  m.  Then  leave  by  Spanish 
service  and  Madrid :  hours,  Irun  to 
Valladolid,  10J  hours  (express)  four 
trains;  389 kil.;  fares,  lstcl.,  p.  44.75; 
2d  cl.,  p.  33.60;  3d  cl.,  p.  20.15. 
Buffets  at  Miranda,  Burgos,  and  Bafios. 
(See  for  details,  Madrid  from  Bayonne.) 

From  Burgos,  by  rail,  line  from 
Bayonne  to  Madrid ;  time,  3  hrs.  ; 
distance,  121  kiL  ;  fares,  pes.  33.90,  etc 

From  Leon,  Oviedo,  Vigo,  Co- 
rona, etc.,  see  those  names. 

From  Salamanca.  To  Medina  del 
Campo  {see  Salamanca). 

From   Calatayud,   Ariza,   Soria, 


Segorbt. — '  Antigfiedad  de  la  Igl.  Cated.  de 
Segorbe/  by  Villagrasa,  Valencia ;  Villagrasa, 
1644,  4 to. 

Murviedro.—\.  '  Descripcion  del  Teatro  Sa- 
guntino/  by  Dean  Marte",  inserted  by  Pons  in 
vol.  iv.  of  his  'Viage  de  Espafta.' 

2.  '  Disertacion  sobre  el  Teatro  y  Circo  de  la 
Ciudad  de  Sagunto  ahora  V.  de  Murviedro,'  by 
Palos,  Navarro  ;  Valencia,  Faille",  1793,  4to.  A 
print 

3.  '  Viage  arcjuitectonico  __  de  EspaBa,  6 
Descripcion  del  Teatro  Saguntino,'  by  Ortiz ; 
Madrid,  Imprenta  Real,  fol.,  six  prints,  1807. 

D  O  L I  D. 

etc.,  by  new  line  along  the  Douro,  in 
about  ten  hours. 

The  usual  way  of  visiting  Zamora 
is  by  rail  from  Medina  del  Campo 
Junction,  90  kil.  ;  two  trains  per  day 
in  3  to  4  hrs.  (KB.— Good  buffet 
and  sleeping  accommodation  at  Me- 
dina Station  if  the  combination  of 
trains  is  awkward— as  it  usually  is.) 
But  an  interesting  route  may  be 
taken  from   Salamanca,   by  road,   as 

follows : — 

Leagues. 

Salamanca  to  Zamora 


Toro     . 

Tordesillas 

Simancas 

Valladolid 


12 
6 
8 

4 
2 

32 


The  branch  railways  to  Salamanca 
and  Zamora  have  done  away  with  any 
reliable  diligence  service  except  from 
Toro  to  Valladolid,  about  half  the 
journey. 

Description  of  Boute. — This  route 
is  interesting  only  to  those  who  wish 
to  visit  Spanish  towns  now  utterly  de- 
cayed, but  whose  associations  with  the 
early  and  mediaeval  Spanish  history 
render  them  the  object  of  the  artist's 
and  historian's  pilgrimage.  The  road 
is  fair  enough.  The  diligences  neither 
worse  nor  better  than  they  generally 
are — bad  enough  to  make  us  appreciate 
railways,  and  sufficiently  good  to  be  pre- 
ferred to  stumbling  jacaa. 


494 


V  ALLADOLID  — ROUTES. 


Zamora. — Inn:  Fonda  del  Comer- 
cio ;  indifferent.  Two  pleasant  pro- 
menades, San  Martin  de  Arriba, 
and  S.  Martin  de  Abajo.  Popula- 
tion, 15,000.  A  very  ancient  city. 
The  actual  name  is  said  to  be  the 
Moorish  Samorah  (Arabice,  turquoises). 
Others  contradict  this.  Be  this 
as  it  may,  this  city,  being  consi- 
dered an  important  military  position, 
and  the  key  of  Leon,  was  strongly 
fortified  by  Castilians  and  Moors,  and 
the  object  therefore  of  several  sieges 
and  battles.  Al-Mannsour,  the  Attila 
of  the  Moors,  destroyed  it,  razing  it, 
more  suo,  to  the  ground ;  but  achieving 
this  not  without  resistance,  which 
went  so  far  as  to  deserve  the  proverb, 
'a  Zamora  no  se  gan6  en  una  hora' 
(985).  Zamora  was  rebuilt  by  Ferdi- 
nand I.,  about  the  middle  of  the  11th 
century.  It  was  near  its  walls  that 
Vellido  Dolfos  was  murdered,  October 
7,  1072,  when  the  city  was  besieged  by 
Don  Sancho,  and  it  was  here  that  the 
five  Moorish  kings  brought  him  tribute 
and  saluted  him  with  the  title  of  the 
Champion  Prince,  Cid  (Seid)  Cam- 
peador. 

Sights. — The  Cathedral,  under  the 
advocation  of  the  Transfiguration  of  the 
Lord,  is  Byzantine,  and  dates  from  the 
Cid's  own  time.  Observe  the  S.  en- 
trance, the  truncated  tower  and  arches, 
the  capitals  of  the  Pinal's,  the  rose-win- 
dows, cimborio,  and  dome.  The  re- 
tablo  is  fine,  of  alabaster,  with  red 
jasper  pillars  and  bronze  ornaments  ; 
the  subject  is  the  Transfiguration,  and 
above  is  the  statue  of  the  Redeemer 
opening  His  arms  to  His  mother  and 
to  mankind.  The  stalls  date  1490, 
and  are  Tedesque  in  style,  and  elabo- 
rately carved.  Among  other  tombs 
that  of  Bernardus,  the  first  bishop 
(1149) ;  near  the  door  that  of  the  con- 
fessor of  Ferdinand  I.,  Bishop  Pedro 
(1254)  ;    an  early  retablo    with    very 


early  pictures,  ascribed  by  some  to 
Fernando  GaUcgos,  in  Capilla  del 
Cardenal,  are  worth  close  examination. 
The  cloisters  were  modernised  in  1621. 

La  Magdalena,  of  the  12th  century, 
belonged  to  the  Templars,  and  is  a  very 
fine,  perfect,  and  well-preserved  example 
of  Romanesque. 

Among  prout-bits  we  may  select  the 
Plaza  de  los  Mornos,  for  its  quaint 
houses;  the  ruins  of  Do&a  Urraca's 
palace,  built  at  the  extreme  point  of  the 
city  (Dona  Urraca  was  the  daughter  of 
Ferdinand  I.,  who  granted  Zamora  to 
her,  in  1065) ;  the  walls,  bishopric,  and 
close  to  the  latter  the  ruins  of  a  house 
in  which,  se  dice,  lodged  the  Cid.  We 
shall  merely  mention,  for  the  sake  of 
ecclesiologists,  the  names  of  the  churches 
of  San  Vicente,  San  Leonardo,  and  Sta. 
Maria  de  la  Horta,  all  of  which  deserve 
study. 

Toro.  —  7000  inhabitants,  on  the 
Duero,  and  in  the  S.  extremity  of  that 
boundless  plain  called  Tierra  de  Cam- 
pos, the  granary  of  Spain  and  rival  of 
Sicily ;  a  name  of  which  it  would  be 
worthy  were  it  better  cultivated,  more 
densely  peopled,  and  the  roads  im- 
proved. This  very  ancient  town,  now 
decayed,  but  with  a  few  valuable  and 
very  interesting  edifices  (such  as  Torre 
del  Rel6,  house  de  los  Fonsecas,  and 
Byzantino-Gothic  Colegiata),  has  played 
an  important  part  in  Spanish  history. 
It  was  often  the  residence  of  the  kings 
of  Castile,  and  the  scene  of  tragic  events, 
the  occurrence  of  which  is  so  frequent 
in  the  annals  of  mediaeval  Castilian  his- 
tory. Here,  for  instance,  it  was  that 
Alfonso  XI.  assassinated  the  Infante 
Don  Juan  (1327) ;  here  that  Don  Pedro 
el  Cruel  and  his  rival  brother  came  in 
turn,  reigned  some  days,  and  were  done 
homage  to.  The  Cortes  were  often  as- 
sembled here,  and  enacted  that  code  of 
municipal  laws  and  regulations  that  goes 
by  the  name  of  '  Las  Leyes  de  Toro ;' 


VALLADOLTD — ROUTES. 


495 


ami  finally,  it  was  here  that  the  Cortes 
solemnly  recognised  the  rights  of  Crazy 
Tane,  and  proclaimed  her  and  her  frail 
husband,  Philippe  leBel,  king  of  Spain, 
with  the  regency  of  Ferdinand  the  Ca- 
tholic. Morales  de  Toro,  situated  a  few 
miles  further,  claims  the  honour  of  hay- 
ing given  birth  to  the  great  Queen  Isa- 
bella. 

At  VUZalar,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Hornilla,  is  preserved  the  post  on  which 
were  stuck  and  exhibited  the  heads  of 
the  ringleaders  of  the  Comuneros  (see 
Toledo),  Padilla,  Bravo,  and  Maldon- 
ado,  who  were  put  to  death  April  23, 
1521,  having  been  made  prisoners  at 
the  battle  which  they  fought  and  lost. 
Their  remains  were  taken  up  in  1821, 
and  removed  to  the  cathedral  of  Za- 
mora. 

Tordesillas. — Near  the  Duero,  3500 
inhabitants.    Inns :  Parador  del  Coche ; 
very  indifferent.      The  city  contains 
six    parish    churches,    among    which 
visit  San  Antolin  for  the  fine  sepul- 
chre of  Don  Pedro  Gonz.  de  Alderete, 
Comendador  en  la  orden  de  San  Juan  ; 
it   is   the    masterpiece   of   the    local 
sculptor  Gaspar,  and  dates  1527.     This 
is  a  beautiful  example  of  the  plater - 
esque.    Visit  likewise  the  nunnery  of 
Sta.  Clara,  which  overlooks  the  river, 
for  its  artesonado,  and  Chapel  de  Sal- 
dafia  (Sal  Danha),  of  1435,  and  fine  re- 
tablo,  said  to  have  belonged  to  Juan  II. 
To  this  convent  Crazy  Jane,  the  mother 
of  Charles  V.,  retired  to  die,  watching 
long  over  the  coffin  of  her  faithless 
Felipe  el  Hermoso.    She  died  April  11, 
1535,  aged  seventy-six,  one  of  the  many 
Spanish  monarchs  who,  after  a  long, 
wearisome  life-struggle,  were  wont  to 
seek  the  quiet  and  peace  found  in  those 
days  only  in  the  cool  solitary  cloisters, 
near  altars,  and  amid  tombs.     Crazy 
Jane,  dying  at  the  nunnery  of  Sta.  Clara, 
her  son,  Charles  V.,  at  the  monastery 
of  Yuste,  and  Philip,  her  grandson,  in 


his  cell  at  the  Escorial,  did  no  more 
than  follow  the  example  of  the  Alfonsos, 
Bermudos,  and  other  numberless  kings 
and  queens  who  had  ended  their  exist- 
ence in  humility  and  prayer,  after  a  life 
of  pomp,  power,  and  often  excess.  Buo- 
naparte was  lodged,  Dec.  25, 1808,  in  a 
house  adjoining  this  convent  Torde- 
sillas was  the  centre  of  the  Communal 
movement  until  the  defeat  of  the  ring- 
leaders by  the  Conde  de  Haro. 

Simancas. — Inns:  Fondadel  Paente, 
and  a  poor  Meson  de  los  Arrieros.  7f 
may  prove  a  convenience  to  those  who 
come  here  to  consult  the  archives,  to  be 
provided  with  good  letters  of  recom- 
mendation to  the  Archivero  Mayor,  and 
to  some  citizen  at  whose  house  he  may 
be  more  comfortably  settled.  About 
two  diligences  and  the  mail  return  daily 
to  Valladolid,  in  which  seats  may  be 
obtained.  The  diligences  usually  pass 
at  3  p.m.,  and  the  hours  for  examining 
the  archives  are  from  9  A. m.  to  3  p.m. 
The  best  plan  (circumstances  permit- 
ting) would  be  to  hire  a  carriage  at  Val- 
ladolid by  the  week  or  month;  It  is 
about  1}  hr.'s  drive,  and  one  could  then 
avoid  B  flats  and  F  sharps  at  the  Si- 
mancas inns. 

This  small  village  (1300  inhabs.)  is 
situated  on  the  Pisuerga,  which  is  crossed 
on  a  fine  bridge  of  seventeen  arches,  and 
is  girdled  by  strong  walls.  Here  are 
kept  the  Archivos  del  Reino,  and  though 
very  severely  injured  by  the  French, 
who  used  many  invaluable  documents 
as  waste  paper,  they  are  an  inexhaus- 
tible mine  of  information,  as  yet  but 
superficially  investigated,  and  seldom 
troubled  by  native  authors.  Every 
facility  is  most  obligingly  granted  by 
the  Archiveso  Mayor,  and  some  of  the 
officials  understand  French.  A  permis- 
sion to  see  papers  later  than  1700  and 
to  copy  and  make  extracts  is  indispens- 
able. 

The  archives  Were  established  here  by 


496 


VALLADOLID. 


order  of  Cardinal  Ximenes.  The  archi- 
tects who  repaired  the  old  building  were 
Herrera,  Alo.  Berruguete,  and  Mora,  and 
Charles  V.  's  secretary  Ayala  was  charged 
with  the  arrangement  of  the  papers,  for 
which  he  was  paid  100,000  maravedis 
a-year.  Beside  state  papers,  charts, 
correspondence  of  ambassadors,  etc., 
there  are  very  important  private  docu- 
ments, elucidating  manydonbtful  points 
in  the  histories  not  only  of  Spain,  but 
of  England,  France,  the  Low  Countries, 
and  Italy,  of  which  several  writers,  such 
as  Mr.  Washington  Irving,  Prescott, 
and  Mr.  Froude,  have  already  availed 
themselves.  The  casual  visitor  may  in- 
quire for  the  Becerro  of  Alfonso  XL, 
which  contains  a  curious  account  of  all 
the  rents  paid  to  the  crown ;  the  original 
deed  of  capitulation  at  the  surrender  by 
Boabdil  of  the  city  of  Granada;  the 
famous  and  now  proverbial  cuentas  del 
Gran  Capitan  (Gonzalo  de  Cordoba),  and 
his  original  despatches  ;  the  Recamara, 
or  inventories  of  Queen  Isabella's  jewels, 
library,  armoury,  etc.,  at  Segovia  ;  her 
will  and  that  of  Charles  V.,  etc.  Con- 
sult 'Guia  de  la  Villa  y  Archivo  de 
Simanoas,'  by  F.  Diaz  Sanchez  (Madrid, 
1885). 


VaUadolid. 

Hotels. — Fonda  De  Francia,  Calle 
Teresa  Gil ;  Del  Norte,  Plaza  Mayor ; 
Imperial,  Fuente  Dorada  ;  all  poor. 

Post  Office. — Mendizabal  6. 

Telegraph  Office. — Calle  Dona  Maria 
de  Molina,  2. 

Cafis. — Suizo,  Calle  de  la  Constitu- 
cion ;  Calderon,  under  the  theatre  of 
the  same  name  ;  Iberia. 

Casino.  —  Calle  de  la  Victoria. 
Strangers  free  for  one  month  upon 
member's  introduction. 


For  rest  of  directory  see  end  of 
VaUadolid. 

Climate.— Lat  N.,  41°  42,  and  42m. 
long.  W.  Madrid. 

VaUadolid  is  wholesome,  the  air  pure 
and  genial,  and  the  sky  generally  clear 
and  cloudless.  The  prevalent  winds  are 
N.N.E.,S.,andS.W. ;  theE.  is  scarcely 
ever  felt,  and  the  W.  as  rarely.  The 
average  thermometric  temperature  is:— 


Winter 

3-56 

Spring 

8.33 

Summer 

aa6x 

Autumn 

KXO 

The  quantity  of  rain  that  falls  in 

Winter  is  6  Inches  3a  lineas  (Spanish) 
Spring      7    „         1     „ 
Summer   2    ,,       18    „ 
Autumn   7    „       46    ,, 

There  are  no  endemics  or  epidemics 
at  VaUadolid.  The  prevalent  illnesses 
in  spring  and  autumn  are  rheumatism 
and  affections  of  the  serous  and  mu- 
cous membranes  ;  in  summer  intermit- 
tent fevers,  and  ague  among  the  lower 
classes,  who  live  by  the  river-side  ;  and 
catarrh  in  winter.  This  climate  is  ill 
suited  to  invalids  generally,  and  espe- 
cially to  those  whose  chest  is  affected, 
or  with  a  predisposition  to  be  so.  The 
time  to  visit  it  is  the  autumn.  The 
water  which  is  drunk  is  generally  whole- 
some, crystalline,  and  pure ;  the  best, 
and  that  is  really  liquid  crystal,  is  that 
from  Fuente  de  la  Salud  and  Fuente  de 
laKia. 

The  mortality  record  is  low — 1*22— 
but  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  popu- 
lation is  only  a  strong,  working  one. 

General  Description. — VaUadolid 
is  situated  in  a  wide  and  seemingly 
boundless  wind-blown  plain  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Pisuerga,  which  bathes  it 
on  the  W.,  and  flows  N.  to  S.  for  2 
leagues  before  its  confluence  takes  place 
with,  the  Duero,  which  it  divides.  The 
interior  of  the  city  is  divided  Kto  W. 


VALLADOLID. 


437 


by  one  of  the  two  arms  into  which  the 
Esgueva  branches  close  to  it,  the  other 
arm  flowing  outside,  until  both  meet 
and  flow  into  the  Pisuerga  below.  The 
city  lies  about  2100  ft.  above  the  sea, 
and  the  absence  of  trees  allows  the  wind 
to  blow  freely  about  it  The  heat  in 
summer  is  often  great ;  both  for  this 
reason  and  because  the  soil  on  which  it 
stands  is  sandstone,  with  a  thin  and 
deeply-sunk  stratum  of  clayey  marl — clay 
being  prevalent  only  to  the  right  of  the 
canal,  and  towards  Simancas,  as  far  as 
Tordeflillas.  Few  cities  in  Spain  are 
better  situated  for  trade  and  manufac- 
tures ;  there  is  abundant  water  amid 
the  tierras  de  Campos,  which,  ill-culti- 
vated as  they  are,  yield  some  six  millions 
of  fanegas  yearly.  Communicating  with 
the  Atlantic  by  the  Duero,  with  the 
centre  and  south  of  Spain  by  railways 
and  canals,  its  prosperity  (which  had 
been  accidentally  checked  by  the  remov- 
al of  the  court  to  Madrid,  and  depressed 
by  continued  war  and  civil  strife)  is 
rapidly  returning,  and  manufactures 
rise  up  everywhere.  Companies  de 
riego,  eta,  are  improving  the  nature  of 
the  soil  around ;  several  banks  have  been 
established  with  large  capitals,  streets 
are  being  paved,  enlarged,  multiplied, 
and  the  sun  of  civilisation,  as  the  local 
papers  say,  is  at  last  rising  once  more 
on  this  active,  busy,  and  historical  town. 
General  sight-seeing  here  is  of  no  great 
importance,  and  one  day  will  suffice ; 
but  the  amateur  of  sculpture  may  study 
the  few  but  not  indifferent  masters  that 
Spain  boasts  o£  and  of  which  numer- 
ous and  first-rate  works  exist  scattered 
in  the  different  churches,  and  collected 
at  the  Museo. 

Historical  Notice. — We  think  the 
reader  will  thank  us  to  omit  quotations 
of  all  that  has  been  written  on  the  ety- 
mology of  this  town,  or  to  attempt  an 
answer  to  the  inquiries — Is  it  the  Pin- 
cia  of  Ptolemy,  the  Vale  of  Conflict, 

2 


Valle  de  lid,  or  the  Moor's  Belad  Wa- 
lid,  Land  of  the  Walid  ?  Be  this  as  it 
may,  the  first  time  this  name  is  men- 
tioned in  any  authentic  document  is  in 
the  reign  of  Sancho  II.  of  Leon  (1072), 
when  he  proposed  to  his  sister  Dona 
Urraca,  whom  he  was  fraternally  be- 
sieging at  Zamora,  to  exchange  the 
latter  for  Rioseco  and  '  el  infantazgo  de 
Valladolid,'  which  she  would  not  accede 
to.  At  the  coronation  of  Alfonso  VI II. 
as  King  of  Castile,  Leon,  and  Galicia 
(in  1072),  this  town  was  granted  by  the 
monarch  to  his  follower  and  friend  the 
wealthy  and  puissant  Conde  Don  Pedro 
Ansurez,who  may  be  considered  as  the 
real  founder ;  he  fortified  and  embel- 
lished it,  raised  a  palace,  built  churches 
and  bridges,  etc.  After  his  death  the 
grant  relapsed  to  the  crown,  and  under 
Juan  II.  it  became  the  residence  of  the 
kings  of  Castile.  Here  Juan  was  mar- 
ried to  Maria,  daughter  of  King  Ferdi- 
nand ;  and  on  Leon  or  of  Aragon  passing 
through  Valladolid  on  her  way  to  Por- 
tugal to  be  married  to  the  Infante 
Duarte,  great  jousts  and  tournaments 
took  place  in  her  honour,  of  which  the 
King  of  Navarre  and  D.  Alvaro  de  Luna 
were  the  heroes  ;  at  night  there  was  a 
grand  ball  and  sarao  in  the  Convent  de 
San  Pablo,  when  all  were  so  merry  that 
on  the  fair  Brianda  de  Luna  insisting 
on  dancing  a  *  zambra '  with  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Lisbon,  the  prelate  gallantly 
rejoined,  'Si  sopiera  que  tan  apuesta 
Senora  me  habia  de  llamar  a  baile,  non 
tragera  tan  luengas  vestiduras  t '  The 
King  of  Castile  broke  three  lances  with 
Ruy  Diaz  de  Mendoza,  to  whom  he  gave 
his  own  steed,  magnificently  caparison- 
ed ;  and  100  knights,  led  by  Alvaro  de 
Luna,  and  clad  in  white  and  red,  ap- 
peared at  the  last  tournament  Jorge 
Manrique  mentions  them  in  the  well- 
known  verses : — 

Que  se  hizo  el  Rey  D.  Juan  ? 
Los  Infantes  de  Aragon, 


r 


498 


VALLADOLID. 


Qurf  sc  hicicron  t 

Que*  fiie"  de  tanto  galan  ? 

Que*  fue  de  tanta  invencion, 

Como  trujeron  ? 

Las  justas  €  los  torneos 

Paramentos,  bordaduras 

£cimeras. 

Fueron  sino  devaneos? 

Qu6  fucron  sino  verdurac 

De  las  eras  ? 

Here  this  same  Don  Alvaro,  once  the 
royal  privctdo,  was,  by  the  king's  orders, 
put  to  death  in  the  Plaza  Mayor,  June 
7,  1453,  on  which  occasion  he  begged 
Barrasa,  who  was  the  Infante  Don  En- 
rique's Master  of  the  Horse,  to  entreat 
his  master  to  recompense  his  servants 
better  than  the  king  had  done  him. 
The  king  died  the  next  year,  full  of  re- 
morse and  grief.  Isabella  was  married 
to  Ferdinand  in  the  building  now  La 
Audiencia,  October  18,  1469,  and  the 
first  decree  of  enlistment  in  the  army 
was  issued  here  and  by  them,  January 
1496,  calling  on  every  citizen  from  the 
age  of  twenty  to  forty-five  to  serve,  the 
clergy,  hidalgos,  and  mendicants  only 
being  excluded.  Here,  May  20, 1506,  on 
Ascension-day,  Columbus  breathed  his 
last  at  his  modest  dwelling,  No.  2  Calle 
Ancha  de  la  Magdalena.  His  body 
was  placed  first  in  the  Convent  of  San 
Francisco,  to  be  removed,  after  six 
years,  to  La  Cartuja  de  las  Cuevas  at 
Seville.  From  thence,  in  1536,  it  was 
taken  to  Sto.  Domingo;  in  1795  to 
Cuba,  and  now  rests  once  more  (1899) 
upon  Spanish  soil  in  Seville  Cathedral. 

Here,  again,  on  May  21,  1527,  Philip 
II.  came  into  the  world  in  a  large  house 
opposite  San  Pablo,  now  the  property 
of  the  Marques  de  Pombo.  Here  Charles 
V.  remained  ten  days  on  his  way  to 
Yuste.  The  first  auto  defi  that  took 
place  here  was  celebrated  in  the  Plaza 
Mayor,  May  21,  1559,  under  the  presi- 
dency of  Dona  Juana,  the  heir  to  the 
crown,  and  the  young  Don  Juan  of 
Austria.     Such  was  the  eager  curiosity 


manifested  by  all  classes  to  witness  thii 
spectacle,  that  seats  were  sold  for  the 
then  enormous  sum  of  five  shillings ; 
and  thousands  crowded  to  the  square, 
filling  the  streets,  and  swarming  on  the 
very  roofs.  Fourteen  culprits,  all  Lu- 
therans, were  executed,  and  the  bones 
of  a  female  who  was  suspected,  from  a 
moral  post-mortem  examination,  to 
have  been  tainted  with  heresy,  were 
burnt  there  and  then,  as  her  case  had 
been  overlooked  whilst  she  was  alive ! 
Philip  II.  was  present  at  another  auto, 
which  took  place  here,  when  thirteen 
persons  were  burnt  alive ;  and  yet  he 
raised  the  Escorial  in  memory  of  one 
who  was  considered  a  great  heretic  by 
those  who  martyred  him,  San  Lorenzo, 
who  was  burnt  alive  for  his  faith. 
Philip  took  a  great  fancy  to  this  city, 
and  after  the  great  fire  of  1521  rebuilt 
a  large  portion  of  it,  and  embellished 
other  parts.  Valladolid  was  at  this 
time  the  most  frequented  and  prospe- 
rous city  in  Spain,  numbered  100,000 
inhabitants,  was  the  usual  resort  of  all 
foreign  princes  and  artists,  and  the  court 
of  the  Berruguetes,  Juni,  Herrera,  and 
the  Arphes.  Its  university  was  fre- 
quented by  French  and  Italians,  as  well 
as  by  the  natives  themselves  ;  and  Na- 
vajero  says,  'Sono  in  Valladolid  assai 
artefeci  di  ogni  sorte,  6  se  vi  lavora  ben- 
essimo  de  tutte  le  arti,  e  sopra  tutto 
d'argenti,  e  vi  sono  tanti  argenteri  quan- 
ti  non  sono  in  due  altre  terre.'  ('  Viag- 
gio  in  Spagna,'  foL  55.)  With  all  this, 
it  was  the  paradise  of  housekeepers,  as 
1  lb.  of  meat  was  to  be  had  for  2d.,  a  loaf 
(weighing  24  lbs.)  for  the  same,  and 
an  azumbre  of  excellent  wine  (half-a- 
gallon)  for  2£d.  The  f§tes  at  the 
christening  of  Philip  III. 's  son  have 
seldom  been  equalled  since.  England 
was  here  worthily  represented  by  her 
ambassador,  Lord  Howard,  who  came 
accompanied  by  fifty  noblemen,  most 
of  them  knights  of  the  Golden  Spur, 


1 


VALLADOLID — MUSEO. 


499 


but  whose  somewhat  plain  dresses  and 
high  boots  contrasted  sorrily  with  the 
satins  and  silken  stockings  of  the  hi- 
dalgos. Philip  made  Lord  Howard  a 
present  of  jewels  to  the  value  of  45,000 
ducats,  besides  3000  to  his  servants, 
horses,  swords,  etc. — a  generosity  which 
excited  many  rumours  fed  by  envy, 
and  resumed  in  these  satirical  verses  of 
Gongora's : — 

Parid  la  Reina,  el  Luterano  vino 
Con  seiscientos  hereges  y  heregias 
Gastamos  un  millon  en  quince  dias 
En  darles  joyas,  hospedaje  y  vino. 


Quedamos  pobres,  fiie*  Lutero  rico ; 

Mandaronse  escribir  estas  hazaflas 

A  Don  Quijote,  a  Sancho  y  su  jumento. 

This  last  allusion  to.  Cervantes  is 
explained  by  the  fact  that  he  was  or- 
dered to  write  a  description  of  those 
fetes,  which  still  exists,  though  it  does 
not  bear  his  name.  This  great  writer 
lived  here  in  the  small  house  behind 
the  Hotel  del  Norte,  No.  11  (antiguo), 
Plazuela  del  Rastro,  near  a  small 
wooden  bridge  over  the  Esgueba. 

Philip  II.  removed  the  Court  to 
Madrid,  and  although  Philip  III.  was 
tempted  to  return  to  Valladolid,  he 
could  not  carry  his  wish  into  effect,  and 
this  change  proved  the  death-blow  to 
the  prosperity  of  Valladolid.  During 
the  Peninsular  war,  Napoleon  entered 
the  city,  January  6,  1809,  remained 
till  the  17th,  and  lodged  in  the  Palacio 
ReaL  The  French  remained  four  years, 
and  left  after  the  battle  of  Salamanca ; 
and  on  July  30,  the  Duke  of  Welling- 
ton made  his  public  entry  by  the  gate 
de  Santa  Clara  amid  great  enthusiasm, 
and  lodged  at  the  bishop's  palace, 
now  Colegio  Mayor  de  Santa  Cruz. 
The  French  returned  with  Joseph  Buona- 
parte (1813),  but  left  soon  after,  and  for 
the  last  time. 

Sights— Museo  and  churches  con- 
taining sculpture,  Cathedral,  San  Pablo, 


Colegio  de  San  Gregorio,  San  Benito, 
University,  Palacio  Real,  eta 

Museo. — The  statues,  carving,  and 
pictures  that  could  be  collected  at  the 
suppression  of  convents  in  this  pro- 
vince have  been  placed  in  this  fine 
building,  once  the  Colegio  Mayor  de. 
Santa  Cruz,  founded  by  Cardinal  Men- 
doza  in  1479,  and  whose  estudios  and 
privileges  were  assimilated  to  those  of 
San  Bartolome  at  Salamanca.  The 
museo  consists  of  a  grand  salon,  six 
rooms  (solas)  with  pictures,  and  three 
filled  with  sculpture.  For  permission 
to  visit,  copy,  etc.,  apply  to  the  Sr. 
Director,  who  is  most  obliging  and 
intelligent ;  in  his  absence  a  silver 
key  will  open  the  door.  The  gallery 
is  open  daily  from  10  A.M.  to  2  p.m. 
Few  of  the  pictures  possess  any  great 
merit.  The  carved  woodwork  is,  how- 
ever, interesting  and  valuable.  The 
position  of  the  pictures  is  being  con- 
stantly changed,  but  the  following  may 
be  taken  as  a  sufficient  guide. 

In  cloister  No.  1,  before  entering 
the  Museo  proper,  is  a  fine  series  of 
carvings  by  Berruguete,  brought 
hither  from  the  convent  of  San  Benito. 

Turning  from  here  to  the  right,  into 
second  cloister,  note  a  series  of  SS. 
Agustin,  Beneto,  Pablo,  Francisco,  in 
wood,  also  'Abraham's  Sacrifice,'  all 
by  Berruguete.  This  cloister  is  full  of 
interesting  works.  Notice  a  Crucifix, 
a  Santa  Teresa,  a  St.  Francis  de  Assisi, 
a  Pieta,  all  by  Hernandez,  from  San 
Benito  and  from  the  convent  of  Las 
Angustias,  a  Baptism  of  our  Lord, 
relievo  (Hernandez),  from  the  Convent 
del  Carmen  Descalzo,  a  splendid 
*  Burial  of  Christ'  by  Juni,  with 
figures  of  the  Magdalen,  Virgin,  etc., 
somewhat  attitudinarian,  but  remark- 
able for  the  wonderful  vigour  of  ex- 
pression, breadth  of  composition  and 
anatomy,  a  San  Bruno  and  'Christ 
bearing   the    Cross'    (Hernandez),    a 


500 


VALLADOLID — MUSEO. 


skeleton  in  wood  from  the  convent  of 
San  Benito,  two  bishops  and  a  St. 
Sebastian,  in  marble. 

Opening  out  of  this  cloister  is  a 
series  of  rooms  containing  the  figures 
used  by  the  frailes  in  the  processions 
of  the  Semana  Santa ;  also  some  fine 
crucifixes,  a  colossal  San  Benito,  by 
Berruguete,  formerly  in  the  Retablo 
Mayor  of  San  Benito,  a  San  Pedro  by 
Hernandez,  and,  especially,  upon  a 
table,  a  head  of  St.  Paul  by  Villa- 
brille  (1707),  une  belle  horreur,  but 
fine. 

Returning  to  the  first  cloister,  a 
winding  passage  leads  to  the  Salon 
grande.  Here  notice  first  a  wonderful 
series  of  choir  stalls,  etc.  (In  corridor 
itself  is  a  set  from  San  Pablo.)  On 
the  right  hand  of  the  salon  is  the 
silleria  from  San  Francisco  ;  on  the 
left  the  silleria*  from  San  Benito,  and 
at  the  end  of  the  room  the  coro  bajo 
from  San  Benito,  the  scenes  from  the 
Passion  carved  above  all  the  seats, 
by  Berruguete.  Notice  also,  in  the 
centre  of  the  room,  the  bronze  effigies 
of  the  celebrated  Duque  de  Lerma 
and  his  duchess,  by  Pompeio  Leoni, 
formerly  in  the  Convent  of  San  Pablo, 
of  which  they  were  the  founders. 
They  weigh  48  quintals,  and  cost 
nearly  £10,000.  The  expression, 
attitude,  and  details  of  dress  are  all 
good.  A  figure  of  Ribera,  by  Mariano 
Benlliure,  in  the  centre  of  the  Salon, 
is  also  noteworthy. 

The  good  pictures  are  not  many. 
Perhaps  the  best  is  Rubens's  'Assump- 
tion '  (much  spoilt)  at  the  end  of  the 
room.  Other  noteworthy  pieces  are, 
SS.  Antonio  of  Padua  and  Bruno,  by 
Juan  de  Juni,  a  Holy  Family  by  Giulio 
Romano,  another  signed  'Didacus  Dizas 
pictor,  1621,'  a  Virgin  and  Child  by 
Francisco  Meneses,  Murillo's  favourite 
pupil,  St.  Anthony  rising  to  Heaven, 
and  the  Stigmata,  both  by  Rubens, 


from  the  Convent  of  Fuensaldafia,  two 
episcopal  presentations  by  Gallegos, 
and  a  Marriage  of  the  Virgin,  by 
Palomino.  Better,  however,  in  many 
respects,  are  three  or  four  modern 
paintings:  Francisco  Jo ver's  Reposition 
de  Colon,  Barras*  '  Antonio  Perez  re- 
ceiving his  family  after  his  torture,' 
Arrayo  y  Lorenzo's  'Duquesa  de 
Alencon  presented  to  King  Francis  I.,' 
and  a  very  fine  Jovenes  Christianas  by 
Manila. 

The  long  series  of  upper  rooms  is 
filled  by  copies,  rubbish  and  a  few 
good  portraits — the  latter  in  the  Salon 
de  Juntas. 

It  is  the  fashion  nowadays  to  speak 
only  disparagingly  of  Valladolid,  and 
especially  of  its  Museo,  and  to  deny 
that  the  work  of  Berruguete  and  his 
fellow-craftsmen  possesses  any  merit. 
Thus,  Street,  in  his  'Gothic  Architec- 
ture in  Spain,'  writes  :  "The  sculpture 
appeared  to  me  to  be  contemptible, 
and  mainly  noticeable  for  woolly 
dumplings  in  place  of  draperies,  and 
for  the  way  in  which  the  figures  are 
sculptured,  standing  insecurely  on 
their  feet,  dwarfed  in  stature,  altogether 
inexpressive  in  their  faces,  out  of 
drawing,  and  wholly  deficient  in  energy 
or  life.  ...  I  lever  saw  such  contempt- 
ible work.  .  .  .  The  figures  are  strained 
and  distorted  in  the  most  violent  way, 
and  fenced  in  by  columns  which  look 
like  bed-posts.  .  .  .  I  have  no  patience 
with  such  work,  and  it  is  inconceivable 
how  a  man  who  has  done  anything 
which,  from  almost  every  point  of 
view,  is  so  demonstrably  bad,  can 
have  preserved  any  reputation  what- 
ever, even  among  his  own  people." 
The  special  reference  here  is  to  the 
churcn  sculpture  found  in  the  Museo ; 
but  the  writer  goes  on  to  cover  all 
Berruguete's  ground  by  saying :  "  The 
rest  is  mostly  of  about  the  same  low 
degree  of  merit." 


VALLADOLID — CHURCHES. 


501 


Such  sweeping  condemnation  on  the 
part  of  a  distinguished  art  critic  it  is 
hard  to  understand.  One  does  not 
look  here  for  the  academic  correctness 
of  later  days,  or  even  of  free  Gothic 
work,  nor  yet  for  the  'energy'  and 
'  life '  which  form  the  great  charm  of 
much  Romanesque  detail.  But  judged 
by  such  canons,  where  is  the  value  of 
the  work  of  the  early  Christian  crafts- 
men ?  There  is  a  deep  religious 
expression  to  be  found  in  nearly  all 
this  wood  sculpture,  limited,  as  it 
necessarily  is,  by  itself  and  by  the 
medium  employed,  and  moreover,  here 
and  there,  when  the  trammels  of 
ecclesiasticism  and  position  are  thrown 
aside,  there  is  a  real  skill  of  technique 
combined  with  artistic  feeling,  which 
makes  a  visit  to  the  Museo  of  Valla- 
dolid  well  worth  some  pains  and  dis- 
comfort. 

The  pity  is  that  this  old  city,  with 
its  marvellous  history,  is  now  so  passed 
by  that  its  sordid  nineteenth  century 
life  is  allowed  to  assert  itself  to  the 
loss  and  hurt  of  the  little  stream  of 
visitors  who  come  into  its  ways  ;  and 
so  the  few  fine  things  it  possesses,  in 
the  way  of  old  houses,  with  all  their 
associations,  churches,  the  Museo,  etc., 
are  more  and  more  lost  sight  of,  while 
even  the  fin-de-s-iecle  improvements  in 
the  direction  of  hotels,  public  gardens 
and  promenades,  are  speedily  sub- 
jected to  the  inevitable  blight  of 
neglect. 

Spending  only  one  day  here,  the 
tourist  should  visit  the  churches  as 
early  in  the  morning  as  possible,  as 
several  of  them  close  betimes,  leaving 
the  Museo  for  eleven  o'clock,  and  tho 
cathedral,  houses  and  promenades  for 
the  afternoon.  Of  the  following  list, 
La  Magdalena,  San  Julian,  San  Gre- 
gorio,  N.  S.  de  la  Angustia,  San  Pablo, 
San  Gregorio  and  San  Benito  are  best 
worth  seeing. 


Churches  containing  Sculptures 
and  Paintings.  La  Magdalena.  — 
Gothic,  of  1570;  architect,  Rodrigo 
GiL  A  magnificent  Corinthian  retablo, 
the  work  of  Esteban  Jordan,  1597.  The 
marble  effigy  of  the  Bishop  Pedro  de 
Gasca,  who  founded  this  church,  by 
Jordan.  This  prelate,  Bishop  of  Pa- 
lencia,  was  sent  by  Charles  V.  to 
America  to  investigate  into  and  repress 
the  violent  government  of  Pizzaro. 

San  Lorenzo. — Paintings  by  Blasco, 
1621,  and  in  sacristia  a  procession  of 
the  Virgin,  which  was  brought  to 
Maria,  wife  of  Philip  III.  A  fine  Holy 
Family,  by  Hernandez. 

San  Julian  y  San  Miguel. — The  clas- 
sical retablo  of  the  three  orders  has 
mezzi-relievi  representing  Nativity 
and  Circumcision,  by  Gaspar  Becerra. 
The  statue  of  St  Michael,  formerly  in 
the  church  of  San  Pelayo,  and  the 
Apostles,  are  ascribed  to  Pomp.  Leoni. 
The  very  fine  ivory  crucifix  on  the 
altar-table  is  universally  ascribed  to 
Michael  Angelo.  The  San  Francisco 
on  the  side  of  the  evangelio,  and  the 
San  Ignacio  de  Loyola  on  the  side  of 
the  epistola  of  the  collateral  altars,  are 
by  Gregorio  Hernandez.  Observe  here 
also  the  fine  sepulchres  and  effigies  of 
the  founders,  who  were  Condes  de  La 
Fuensaldafia. 

In  the  Ante-Sacristia  is  an  Infant 
Deity  holding  the  terrestrial  globe, 
a  copy  of  Corregio,  according  to 
Bosarte,  but  perhaps  a  replica  by  him 
of  same  subject,  formerly  in  Royal 
Palace  at  Madrid.  In  the  Sacristia,  a 
fine  San  Francisco  breathing  his  last, 
most  effective,  by  Ribera,  or  at  least 
worthy  of  him,  and  in  his  style.  In  a 
small  chapel  in  this  sacristia  are  a  San 
Ignacio  and  St.  Francis  of  Borgia,  both 
fine  examples  of  Gregorio  Hernandez. 
Observe  here  also,  forming  part  of  a 
Relicario,  the  delicately- modelled  heads 
of  the  four  Doctors  of  the  Church. 


502 


VALLADOLID — CATHEDRAL 


K.  S.  de  la  Antigua. — This  was  the 
first  church  built  by  Conde  D.  Pedro 
Ansurez,  and  served  as  Colegiata  until 
1095.  The  Byzantine  edifice  was  al- 
tered in  the  14th  century,  by  Alfonso 
XL,  but  though  the  interior  is  Gothic, 
the  exterior  has  preserved  much  of  the 
primitive  style ;  thus  observe  its  brick- 
built  tower  and  fifteen-arched  portico 
on  one  side  of  the  cloister.  Obs.  the 
great  Betablo  of  the  high  altar,  designed 
by  Juan  de  Juni,  and  the  much  finer 
old  retablos  in  two  chapels  on  the  south 
side.  N.B. — This  church  is  open  only 
early  in  the  morning. 

San  Nicolas.  —  Founded  by  Conde 
Ansurez,  repaired  and  altered  in  1544. 
Here  is  buried  the  beato  Fr.  Miguel  de 
ios  Santos,  ob.  1625.  The  Ecce  Homo 
in  a  chapel  is  by  Hernandez  (?). 

San  Martin. — Prior,  most  probably, 
to  12th  century,  with  a  Byzantine 
tower,  very  similar  to  that  of  La  An- 
tigua ;  modernised  1621. 

Santiago, — Prior  to  the  13th  century, 
repaired  in  1490,  Gothic  now.  Effigy 
of  the  tutelar  ascribed  to  Hernandez ; 
but  the  finest  sculpture  is  an  Adoration 
of  the  Kings,  a  masterpiece  of  Juni's. 
Observe  particularly  the  classical  Virgin. 

La  Pasion.  — A  Convent,  aggregate 
of  San  Lorenzo,  churrigueresque.  In 
the  collateral  altars  to  the  mayor  one 
are  a  Christ  Bound,  and  a  Christ  Pray- 
ing on  Mount  Olivet,  both  masterpieces 
of  anatomy,  by  Gregorio  Hernandez. 

N.  S.  delas  Angustias. — Of  1604,  but 
of  earlier  foundation,  and  formerly  even 
in  another  site.  The  building  has  been 
erroneously  ascribed  to  Herrera,  who 
was  dead  when  it  was  begun  by  Fran- 
cisco de  Praves.  The  high  altar  is, 
with  its  statues,  ascribed  to  Pomp. 
Leoni.  The  Virgen  de  las  Angustias 
is  ascribed  to  Hernandez.  The  ad- 
mirable effigy  of  N.  S.  de  los  Cuchillos 
(of  the  knives  or  daggers)  is  the  mas- 
terpiece of  Juan  de  Juni.      The   St. 


John  and  Magdalen,  and  Christ  Bound, 
are  by  Hernandez. 

Sta.  Ortiz. — Classical,  of  1595,  again 
not  by  Herrera,  although  the  architect 
is  ignored.  Compare  the  N.  S.  delos 
Dolores  on  its  high  altar,  by  Hernandez, 
with  Juni's  similar  subject  in  Las 
Angustias,  allowing,  of  course,  for  the 
cruel  repainting,  which  has  altered  the 
expression.  The  Christ  is  inferior  to 
this.  In  the  collateral  altars  are — A 
Christ  Bound,  and  Prayer  on  Mount 
Olivet  A  grand  Paso,  the  Descent,  a 
Virgen  de  la  Candelaria  (Candlemas), 
and  a  Veronica,  all  works  of  different 
merit,  each  by  Hernandez. 

In  the  Church  of  Jesus  Nazareno, 
the  effigy  of  Christ,  a  very  popular 
paso  in  the  Valladolid  Good  Friday 
processions,  is  ascribed  to  Hernandez ; 
but  the  good  and  stuff-manufacturing 
Vallisolitanos  only  see  and  admire,  on 
such  occasions,  the  purple  tunic  em- 
broidered with  gold. 

Nunnery  of  Sta,  Isabel.  —  Founded 
1472,  by  Dona  Isabel  de  Hermosilla. 
Observe,  on  the  epistola  side  of  the  Co- 
rinthian retablo,  a  very  beautiful  kneel* 
ing  St.  Francisco  of  Assisi,  by  Juan  <L 
Juni ;  the  head,  according  to  Bosart, 
rivals  that  of  the  Laocoon  in  the  ex- 
pression of  pain,  mingled  here  with 
humility,  piety,  self-denial,  etc. 

In  Huelgas  Reales,  a  wonderful  re- 
tablo by  Hernandez,  dated  1616. 

ftat&tOral.— This  noble  fragment  of  the 
granite  edifice  which,  were  it  completed 
as  it  was  designed,  was  to  be  a  todo  sin 
igual,  which  its  architect,  Herrera, 
asserted  with  greater  reason  than  mo- 
desty, was  built  on  the  site  of  the  for- 
mer Colegiata,  founded,  end  of  11th 
century,  by  the  Conde  Pedro  Ansurez. 
The  primitive  design  was  entrusted, 
1527,  to  Pedro  Riafio,  who  died  before 
the  works  were  even  begun.  These 
were  then  continued  by  Rodrigo  Gil  de 
Ontaiion  and  others,  and  finally  by  Juan 


VALIADOLID. 


503 


de  Herrcra.  This  architect  formed 
new  plans  and  destroyed  what  had  been 
already  built,  intending  to  raise  a  monu- 
ment bearing  the  stamp  of  the  new  style 
he  was  addicted  to,  and  intended  thus, 
he  said,  to  '  desterrar  de  Espana  la  bar- 
baric y  soberbia  ostentacion  de  los  an- 
tiguos  edificios.'  But  a  few  years  had 
elapsed,  when  the  works  had  to  be -a 
second  time  interrupted,  on  Hen-era 
being  called  by  Philip  II.  to  Madrid  and 
entrusted  with  the  building  of  the  Esco- 
rial.  Diego  de  Praves  endeavoured  to 
prosecute  the  works,  but  on  the  Court 
being  removed  to  Madrid,  the  chapter 
found  no  funds  wherewithal  to  pursue 
them,  and  the  edifice,  unfinished  as  it 
was,  was  habilitado,  and  opened  for  the 
public  service. 

Style  and  Proportions. — The  ground- 
plan  inside  forms  an  oblong  411  ft. 
long,  by  204  ft.  wide.  On  the  left 
wing  of  the  principal  facade  Herrera 
had  intended  to  build  a  square  cloister, 
176  ft.  long,  a  chapter-house  and  offices ; 
the  style  of  it  is  Greco-Roman,  har- 
monious, and  simple,  but  cold  and 
severe. 

Exterior.  —  Doric.  The  principal 
portal  is  160  ft.  high,  and  is  decorated 
with  statues  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul. 
The  entrance  is  formed  by  an  arch 
24  ft.  wide,  and  50  ft  high,  with  a  stone 
Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  monotonous 
and  cold  as  the  rest.  In  the  second 
stage,  so  to  speak,  of  the  facade  are 
statues  of  the  Doctors  of  the  Church, 
and  pagan-like,  unmeaning  signs  of  the 
Sun  and  Moon,  signs  also  of  a  sculptor 
turned  into  a  lunatic  by  a  «*7i-stroke, 
called  Alberto  Churriguera,  but  en  honor 
de  la  verdad  sea  dicho,  those  futilities, 
as  well  as  the  statues,  balustrade,  and 
escutcheons,  were  not  Herrera's  doing, 
though  the  granite  balls  and  pyramids 
terminating  the  edifice  are  his,  and  con- 
stitute a  clumsy  detail,  which  he  loved  ] 
to  reproduce  everywhere.     Of  the  two 


projected  towers,  one  only  was  finished, 
and  this,  which  was  270  ft.  high,  fell 
May  31,  1841.  About  a  half  only  of 
the  edifice  is  finished,  and  to  complete 
it  22,000,000  reals  would  be  necessary; 
so  calculated  V.  "Rodriguez,  in  1768  ! 

Interior. — The  ornamentation  is  Co- 
rinthian and  sober.  There  are  three 
naves,  the  central  being  50  ft.  wide, 
with  chapels  all  round.  The  founder 
of  Valladolid,  Pedro  Ansurez,  is  buried 
near  the  high  altar,  with  a  rude  effigy 
and  some  verses  of  15th  century,  almost 
worthy  of  this  hero,  and  like  him, 
varonUes,  manly  : — 

Aqui  yace  sepultado 

Un  Conde  digno  de*  fama,  etc 
*  *  *  * 

La  vida  de  los  pasados 
Reprehende  a  los  presentes 
Ya  tales  somos  tornados 
Que  el  mentar  los  enterrados, 
Es  ultraje  a  los  vivientes. 
Porque  la  fama  del  bueno 
Lastima  por  donde  vuela, 
Al  bueno  con  la  espucU 
Y  al  malvado  con  el  freno. 

and  ends,  with  this  other  cut — as  sharp 
as  the  good  Conde's  sword,  no  doubt, 
was — 

....  en  este  claro  espejo 
Veamos  cuanta  mancilla 
Agora  tiene  Castilla 
Segun  lo  del  tiempo  viejo. 

And  deservedly  so,  for  Valladolid,  la 
patria  of  the  Junis,  Hernandez,  Gaspar, 
etc.,  selfishly  followed  the  ungrateful 
example  of  other  towns  in  Spain,  and 
Pedro  Ansurez  has  no  statue  in  the 
town  he  founded  and  loved  so  well. 

Chapels — De  Santisteban. — A  St.  Ber- 
nard, by  Giordano. 

Capilla  del  Sagrario. — Pictures  by 
the  same,  who  painted  them  prestissimo. 

Capilla  de  los  Dolores. — The  founder 
Velarde's  portrait  is  absurdly  ascribed 
to  Velazquez.  The  famous  Cristo  de 
la  Cepa,  formerly  in  San  Benito,  is 
reverently  kept  here. 

Capilla  de  San  Juan. — A  picture  \3t 


004 


VALLADOLID. 


Paul),  by  Giordano,  and  several  small 
ones  by  Martinez.  Transfiguration,  by 
Giordano  ;  retouched  by  Gonzalez ;  pic- 
tures by  Martinez. 

In  a  small  altar,  in  the  entrance  of 
ooro  by  the  side  of  the  Gospel,  is  a  fine 
copy  of  Raphael's  Transfiguration,  and 
copies  of  Titian  and  Bassano  ;  and  a 
St.  Anthony,  close  by,  of  Giordano's. 
The  silleria,  formerly  in  San  Pablo,  is 
very  fine,  of  the  classical  style,  and  de- 
signed by  Herrera.  Over  the  prelate's 
stall  is  a  fine  Adoration  of  Kings,  by 
Giordano.  Observe  particularly  in  the 
Sacristy  an  exquisite  custodia  of  Juan 
de  Arfe. 

Minor  Churches.— San  Pablo,  and 
Colegio  de  San  Qregorio. — The  Convent 
of  San  Pablo  was  founded  by  Queen 
Dona  Violante,  about  1276.  The  church 
dates  1286,  and  was  built  by  Queen 
Dona  Maria  de  Molina,  and  embellished 
in  the  1 5th  century  by  the  Abbot  of  Val- 
ladolid,  Fr.  Juan  de  Torquemada,  who 
made  the  roof  higher  and  began  the 
first  storey  of  the  splendid  facade,  one 
of  the  finest  in  Castile.  The  Duke  of 
Lerma,  at  the  beginning  of  the  17th 
century,  completed  the  edifice  and 
facade ;  the  style  of  the  latter,  therefore, 
differs  according  to  the  period,  the 
earliest  being  Gothic,  and  the  latest 
Graeco-Roinan.  The  church  was  defiled 
and  gutted  by  the  French,  but  has  been 
well  restored,  in  sober  Gothic.  At 
the  corner  of  the  street  and  little 
plaza  opposite  the  facade  is  the  house 
(note  quaint  angle  windows)  where 
Philip  II.  first  saw  the  light.  The 
Colegio  de  San  Qregorio  is  adjoining, 
and  was  founded  in  the  15th  century 
by  Alfonso  de  Burgos,  Bishop  of 
Palencia  and  confessor  of  Isabella, 
with  the  object  of  providing  educa- 
tion to  'poor  church  students.'  The 
edifice  and  patronage  were  given  over 
to  the  Catholic  Kings  by  the  founder 
in  1496,  on  its  being  completed.     With 


a  mixture  of  styles,  it  is  chiefly  £ 
wonderful  example  of  plateresque  work. 
Observe  the  elaborately  decorated  facade, 
with  niche-work,  heraldic  trees  sup- 
porting huge  coats  of  arms,  and  over 
the  entrance  arch  the  royal  coat  of  arms, 
with  lions  and  heralds.  Observe  also 
the  warriors  and  wild  men,  etc,  and  the 
relievo  representingthe  founder  kneeling 
and  dedicating  this  good  work  to  Saint 
Gregory.  Visit  the  elegant  patio,  with 
an  agimez  gallery,  spiral  pillars,  and 
the  yoke  and  bundle  of  arrows,  the 
canting  arms  of  the  Catholic  kings. 
Visit  likewise  the  charming  staircase, 
artesonado  hall,  once  the  library,  and 
the  chapel  where  the  founder's  tomb 
was  placed,  whose  effigy  by  Berruguete 
was  beautiful,  and  compared  to  that  of 
Juan  II.  at  the  Cartuja  de  Miraflores 
(Burgos) ;  but  this,  the  books,  pictures, 
statues,  etc. ,  were  all  destroyed  bjr  the 
French.  The  building  is  now  turned 
into  offices  of  the  Civil  Government. 

San  Benito. — Henrique  II.  ordered 
in  his  will  that  his  son  Juan  I.  of  Castile 
should,  to  expiate  his  sins,  found  two 
monasteries.  This  king,  therefore, 
erected  San  Benito,  and  the  Paular  at 
Segovia  (end  of  14th  century).  It  was 
completed  1 504.  The  church  is  Gothic, 
of  three  naves,  elegant  and  lofty. 
The  cloister,  of  two  galleries,  Doric  and 
Ionic,  has  been  ascribed  to  Herrera,  but 
was  built  by  one  Rivero.  The  gems  of 
this  convent  were  its  silleria,  pictures, 
etc.,  of  which,  the  former  by  Berru- 
guete, is  now  at  the  Museo.  The 
church  was  carefully  restored  in  1893. 

University, — According  to  some,  this 
would  be  the  earliest  in  Spain,  being 
founded  in  Palencia  in  the  13th  cen- 
tury, by  Sancho  I.  of  Castile,  and  re- 
moved hither  that  same  century  by 
King  St.  Ferdinand.  Be  this  as  it  may. 
however,  the  present  building  is  of  re- 
cent date,  as  its  churriguresque  style 
too  sufficiently  proves.     It  is,  never- 


VALLADOLID. 


505 


theless,  large,  solid,  not  wanting  in 
elegance  and  grandeur,  very  effective, 
and  has  been  latterly  considerably  im- 
proved. 

Palacio  Seal. — Of  beginning  of  17th 
century,  built  for  the  Duke  of  Lerma  by 
Philip  III.  It  is  elegant,  well-propor- 
tioned, with  a  very  noble  patio,  which 
has  two  galleries  of  the  Revival,  with 
curious  capitals,  and  a  series  of  busts 
of  Roman  emperors  and  escutcheons  of 
all  the  provinces  of  Spain.  They  are 
Berruguete-like,  and  probably  the  work 
of  some  pupil  of  his,  but  not  by  him, 
as  often  asserted,  as  the  escutcheon  of 
Portugal  is  among  the  rest,  which  king- 
dom was  not  annexed  until  1580,  and 
Berruguete  died  in  1559. 

Private  Houses.— Visit  the  fine  patios 
of  the  Casa  del  Infantado,  opposite  San 
Gregorio,  of  the  Arzobispado,  of  No.  11 
Calle  de  Herredares.  The  fagades  of 
La  Casa  del  Sol,  once  the  abode  of  the 
great  and  learned  Conde  de  Gondomar, 
Philip  IV. 's  ambassador  to  the  court  of 
James  I.  of  England  ;  that  also  of  the 
palace  of  Fabio  Nelli,  the  Maecenas  of 
Valladolid  ;  also  the  house  of  Marques 
de  Villaverde,  Casa  Revilla,  De  Villa- 
rante,  etc. 

Squares,  Streets,  Prout-bits. — The 
principal  street  is  Calle  de  Santiago, 
where  the  best  shops  are.  Here  is  the 
Arco  de  Santiago,  an  indifferent  heavy 
brick  edifice  of  Francisco  de  Praves, 
with  a  statuette  of  Saint  Michael,  who 
was  the  tutelar  of  Valladolid  until 
1746,  when  its  present  one,  San  Pedro 
Regalado,  was  canonised.  The  Plaza 
Mayor  is  a  very  fine  square,  190  ft  long 
by  130  wide,  surrounded  by  symmetrical 
houses,  with  three  tiers  of  balconies, 
and  arcaded.  It  was  built  by  Philip 
II.,  and  was  the  model  of  that  of  the 
same  name  at  Madrid.  In  the  Plaza 
de  Campo  Grande  Napoleon  reviewed 
85,000  men.  It  was  formerly  the  site 
of   tournaments,    jousts,    autos-da-ft, 


decapitations,  bull-fights,  private  ren. 
dezvous  with  navajas,  and  other  such- 
like mediaeval  and  popular  jollifications. 

Prout-bits.—  Casa  de  las  Argollas. 
Here  Alvaro  de  Luna  was  confined, 
awaiting  his  execution.  In  the  first 
house  to  the  right  on  going  out  of  the 
Plazuela  Vieja  into  Calle  de  San  Martin, 
Alfonso  Cano  is  said  to  have  assassi- 
nated his  wife  in  a  fit  of  angry  jealousy, 
but,  la  verdad  en  su  lugar,  and  there- 
fore perhaps  not  here  in  the  city. 

Berruguete  lived  near  San  Benito  el 
Real.  Miago,  the  old  Maitre  d' Hotel 
of  Pedro  Ansurez,  is  buried  in  San 
Fsteban  ;  over  his  tomb  is  his  bust  and 
these  quaint  verses : 

Aqui  yace  Pedro  Miago, 
Que  de  lo  mio  me  fago ; 
Lo  que  com!  y  bebi,  perdi  ; 
Lo  que  aca  deje*  no  lo  s£, 
Yel  bien  que  fize,  falli. 

He  therefore  died  a  beggared  Vatel. 

Espaftol  que  canta 

O  rabia  o  no  tiene  blanca  (a  coin). 

Libraries. — Biblioteca  Provincial.— 
In  the  same  building  of  the  Museo, 
14,000  vols.,  200  MSS.,  a  good  collec- 
tion of  coins,  globes,  and  maps.  Among 
the  MSS.  are — the  libro  becerro  de  *  Las 
Behetrias  de  Castilla,'  copied  from  the 
original  MSS. ;  a  collection  of  Cortes  y 
Ordenanzas,  etc.  Open  to  the  public, 
free  admission  daily,  except  on  holidays, 
from  10  a.m.  to  2  p.m. 

De  la  Uhiversidad.  — 10,572  vols., 
mostly  from  suppressed  convents,  of 
no  great  merit  Inquire  for  a  MS.  on 
vellum  of  a  Hebrew  Bible,  a  fragment 
of  the  works  of  Cicero ;  the  C.  C.  C. 
of  Juan  de  Mena,  Seville  edition  of 
1512.  The  Preguntas  y  Respuestas 
known  as  those  of  £1  Almirante  de 
Castilla,  etc.  ;  the  Library  del  Semi- 
nario  Gonciliar  is  only  beginning  to  be 
formed. 

Theatres,  Promenades,  etc. — The 
New  Theatre  de  Lope  de  Vega  is  very 


506 


VIGO — ROUTES. 


pretty  and  comfortable,  and  can  hold 
1800  spectators ;  a  stall,  8r. ;  zarzuelas, 
dances,  etc  The  older  theatre  is  indif- 
ferent. 

The  Plaza  de  Toros  holds  10,000 
spectators.  The  corridas  take  place 
during  the  fair  of  September,  between 
the  20th  and  30th  of  that  month. 

Casino. — There  is  a  good  casino  and 
reading-room.  Travellers  are  free  for  a 
month  on  introduction  by  a  member. 

The  Promenades  most  frequented  are 
Paseo  del  Espolon,  on  left  bank  of  the 
Pisnerga ;  it  is  the  fashionable  summer 
evening's  walk.  Daring  the  winter  the 
favourite  paseo  is  Acera  de  Recoletos, 
in  the  Campo  Grande,  with  a  fountain 
crowned  by  a  statue  representing  For- 
tuna  Duplex. 

Carriage  and  Omnibus  Hire. — 
There  are  several  stands  of  carriages, 
very  decent,  and  with  good  motion. 

Tariff. 


1 

horse, 

a  horses, 

a  seats. 

4 

seats. 

By  the  course — 

r. 

r. 

By  day 

a 

4 

By  night  .... 

4 

6 

By  the  hour — 

By  day,  for  the  first  hour 

8 

IO 

For  every  other  hour    . 

6 

8 

From  twilight  to  midnight 

For  first  hour 

io 

za 

For  every  other    . 

8 

io 

From  midnight  to  daybreak 

Every  hour . 

13 

«4 

To  rail,  station  included. 

Omnibuses. 

r. 

For  each  person    . 

a 

Small  parcel  . 

, 

X 

Large     „ 

, 

a 

Directory. — Bankers.  —  Suocursals 
of  the  Bank  of  Spain :  Jover  and  Co., 
Calle  de  la  Victoria. 

Spanish  Prot.  church  and  school, 
Calle  Labradores  28. 

Doctor. — Alonso  Cortes,  Calle  de  las 
Angustias,  3. 

Glovers. — Gonzalez,  Cervantes  4  and 
6  ;  Sanchez,  Plaza  Mayor.  The  skins 
here  are  excellent,  and  they  are  cheap 
and  lasting. 

Booksellers. — Hijos  de  Nuevo,  Orates 
20 ;  Santaren,  Fuente  Dorada,  27. 

Silversmiths, — Calle  de  la  Plateria; 
ask  for  local  ear-rings,  etc.  ;  but  these 
descendants  of  the  Arfes  are  sadly 
degenerate,  and  French  pacotille  is 
preferred. 

Most  of  the  old  diligence  routes — to 
Aranda  de  Duero,  Rio  Seco,  Benavente, 
etc. — have  now  been  superseded  by  new 
railway  lines,  especially  by  the  Medina- 
Segovia  line  and  the  Ariza  and  Rioseco 
lines.  Diligences,  however,  still  run 
to  Tudela,  Tordesillas,  Tiedra,  Rueda, 
Encinas  and  Cuellar. 

The  surroundings  of  Valladolid  are 
exceedingly  dull,  the  only  interesting 
excursion  being  that  set  forth  upon  p. 
493 — to  Simancas,  etc. 

N.B. — Ask  here  for  old  Rueda  wine, 
which,  if  good,  is  very  good. 

Books  of  Reference. — i.  'Compendio  Histo- 
rica  y  Descrip.  de  Valladolid,'  with  catalogue 
of  its  Museo  (sculptures  and  paintings) ;  Valla- 
dolid, Pastor,  1843. 

a.  '  Noticia  Historica  del  Monasterio  de  San 
Benito  el  Real  de  Valladolid'  fol.  MS.  Acad. 
Hist.  (G.  89.) 


VIGO. 


Vigo — In  the  province  of  Ponte- 
vedra  (Galicia) ;  population,  23,000. 

Boutes  and  Conveyances.  1st. 
From  Madrid,  by  rail,  vid  Leon, 
Monforte,  and  Orense,  823  kil. ;  two 
trains  daily  in  about  28  hrs.  by  mail. 


One  of  the  best  constructed  and  most 
interesting  lines  in  Spain.  Good  buffets 
at  Medina,  Venta  de  Banos,  and  Leon. 
If  the  traveller  desires  cross-country 
scenery  he  may  alight  at  Orense  (p. 
365)  and  then  drive  to  Vigo,  thus : — 


VIGO — ROUTES. 


507 


Itinerary. 

Orense  to  Rivadavia 
Puenteareas   . 
Vigo       .        .        . 


Leagues. 
.    4i 
.    7 
.    4* 


x6 
The  route  is  uninteresting.  The 
principal  rivers  the  traveller  meets  are 
the  Mino  on  leaving  Orense ;  Barban- 
tino,  close  to  Barbantes ;  the  A  via, 
which  gives  its  name  to  Rivadavia; 
and  the  Tea,  near  Puenteareas.  Riva- 
davia, picturesquely  situated,  has  a 
pretty  bridge  of  three  arches  over  the 
A  via;  population,  1815. 

Sd.  Prom  Santiago.  By  rail  and  dil.  (see 
Santiago  Jrom  Vigo).  Or  take  railway  to 
Padron — 3  trains  per  day  in  about  an  hour— 
and  then  drive  (or  take  a  rather  unreliable 
diL  service)  thus : — 

Itinerary. 

Leagues. 

Caldas  del  Rey                        .  3 

Pontevedra      ....  9 

Puente  San  Payo  t 

Redondela       ....  4 

Vigo  s 

12 

This  route,  by  continuing  to  Tuy, 
and  coming  back  to  Lugo,  is  a  pleasant 
tour  in  the  summer  months.  The 
country  is  charming.  Observe  on  the 
road,  and  after  passing  the  hermitage 
of  N.  S.  de  la  Esclavitud,  formerly  a 
sanctuary  for  criminals,  the  Pico  Sacro, 
a  conical  hill  of  crystallised  quartz. 
£1  Padron  was  the  Roman  Irai  Flavia  ; 
population,  9203.  Easter  Monday 
(Pascua  de  Resurreccion)  is  the  great 
Fiesta,  Foria,  and  Cattle  Fair.  It  was 
here  that,  according  to  tradition,  San- 
tiago's body  was  first  landed,  having 
been  borne  hither  from  Joppa  in  a  boat, 
and  performing  the  journey  in  seven 
days!  The  Ulla  is  crossed  at  El 
Puente  de  Cesures  (Pons  Oaesaris), 
built  by  the  Romans,  and  rebuilt  in 
1161  for  the  passage  of  pilgrims  from 
Portugal. 

Caldas   de    Keys. — Warm    mineral 


baths,  temperature  32°  Rh.  ;  excellent 
in  all  cutaneous  diseases.  Wretched 
accommodation.    Population,  8650. 

Pontevedra. — Capital  of  the  province 
of  same  name;  20,622  inhabitants. 
The  Roman  Pons  Vetus  or  Duo  Pontes ; 
suffragan  of  Santiago.  It  is  situated 
in  a  pleasant  valley,  about  10  m.  in 
extent  Although  a  very  ancient  city, 
it  is  clean  and  pleasant;  the  streets 
well  paved  and  straight ;  the  alamedas 
pretty ;  the  Fonda  Mendez  Nuflez,  fair. 
It  is,  or  rather  was  formerly,  a  very 
aristocratic  town,  as  may  be  gathered 
from  the  armorial  shields  of  some 
almost  tenantless  old  houses.  Visit 
the  picturesque  arcaded  Plaza  de  La 
Teucro,  the  Gothic  church  of  Santa 
Clara.  The  religious  festivals  of  the 
Blessing  of  the  Sea,  celebrated  October 
5th,  and  the  Ruada  de  la  Peregrina, 
August  8th,  are  exceedingly  curious 
and  ancient. 

The  scenery  between  Pontevedra  and 
Redondela  is  quite  charming ;  the  fields 
teem  with  fruit,  corn,  maize,  vines,  and 
flax. 

Redondela, — This  small  city  stands 
in  the  Ria  Vigo  ;  it  is  sheltered  from 
the  Atlantic  by  the  Islas  de  Bayona. 
Population,  12,000.  Bayona  lies  4 
leagues  from  Vigo  ;  is  very  old,  and  is 
mentioned  by  Milton  in '  Lycidas.'  Its 
hams  are  celebrated,  and  the  French 
Bayonne  jambons  are  but  a  usurpa- 
tion. It  forms  a  very  fine  bay,  secure 
and  sheltered. 

3d.  From  or  to  Ti.y,  by  rail — 2 
trains  daily  in  2  hrs.  (Also  from  Lis- 
bon and  Oporto  direct ;  1  train  daily ; 
22  hrs.  from  Lisbon ;  10  hrs.  from 
Oporto.) 

Tuy. — (Casa  des  Huespedes  of  Carmen 
Sanchez).  This  ancient  city,  contain- 
ing a  population  of  11,765  souls,  will 
be  found  mentioned  by  Pliny.  In  700 
A..D.  it  was  the  residence  of  the 
Gothic  king  Witiza,  and  after  several 


508 


VIGO. 


reigns  was  destroyed  by  the  Moots  in 
716,  and  rebuilt  915  by  Ordono  I. 
For  its  country  and  climate  it  might  be 
named  the  Oalician  Malaga;  and  the 
vegas  teem  with  the  orange,  the  vine, 
(wines  are  excellent  here),  and  corn.  The 
climate  is  delicious ;  and  fruit,  good 
meat,  salmon,  and  trout  abound.  The 
angler  should  explore  the  A  via,  Tea, 
and  Louro.  The  savalos,  mugilos, 
salmon  etes,  etc.,  are  excellent  The 
cathedral  is  of  middle  of  12th  century, 
and  has  all  the  appearance  of  a  castle 
as  well  as  a  church.  The  stalls  are 
fine,  the  cloisters  spacious  and  interest- 
ing. The  situation  of  Tuy  is  charming ; 
it  is  placed  on  a  plateau,  the  base  of 
which  is  washed  by  the  waters  of  the 
Mino.  On  the  opposite  bank  is  the 
fortified  frontier  town  of  Valenza, 
belonging  to  Portugal  A  museo  at 
Colegio  de  San  Fernando,  with  books 
and  pictures. 

Tuy  is  good  headquarters  for  anglers 
and  artists.  The  best  rivers  are  the 
Louro,  the  Tea,  and  Avia.  The  wines 
are  first-rate.  The  Vega  de  Louro  is 
delightful.  Direct  rail  to  Oporto  by  the 
new  international  bridge  over  the  Mino. 

4th.  From  Orense  by  Pontevedra. 
15  leagues  by  Maside. 

5th.  From  Lugo.  Lugo  to  Santiago 
by  Mellid  and  Arzua,  and  Santiago  to 
Vigo  ui  supra. 

6th.  From  Ferrol  and  la  Corufla,  see 
the  latter. 

7th.  From  Bordeaux  and  other 
French  ports  by  frequent  steamers. 

8th.  From  Lisbon,  Oporto,  Cadiz, 
Gibraltar,  and  Malaga,  besides  occa- 
sional steamers  whose  departures  are 
duly  advertised  in  the  local  papers  and 
time-tables,  the  steamers  of  Messrs. 
John  Hall  and  Co.  touch  here  irregu- 
larly, and  the  steamers  of  the  Pacific 
Steam  Navigation  Company  fortnightly. 

Vigo,  though  ancient,  has  little  to 
interest  the  antiquary ;   '  Heureux  lea 


peuples  qui  n'ont  pas  d*histoire  ! '  Al 
though  an  exception  to  the  latter,  it 
has  been  a  victim  to  its  position  ;  has 
been  often  sacked,  and  its  bay  the  scene 
of  many  a  combat  An  English  fleet 
of  twenty-five  sail,  under  the  Duke  of 
Ormond,  Rooke,  and  Stanhope,  entered 
the  bay  October  22d,  1702  ;  and  not- 
withstanding the  fire  of  the  Spanish 
batteries,  garrisoned  by  20,000  men, 
defeated  them,  captured  six  French 
and  five  Spanish  ships,  and  destroyed 
most  of  the  others.  The  bay  and 
town  were  taken  October  11,  1719,  by 
Lord  Cobham.  In  February  1809,  the 
place  surrendered,  almost  without  a 
shot,  to  the  French  under  Franceschi ; 
but  was  retaken  March  27th  by  the  in- 
habitants themselves,  headed  by  a 
priest,  el  Abad.  de  Valladares. 

Vigo  enjoys  a  delicious  climate,  well 
suited  to  the  invalid,  and  not  suffi- 
ciently studied  as  yet  as  a  medical 
station.  Its  bay  is  most  beautiful. 
The  town,  rising  in  amphitheatre  on  the 
slopes  of  a  hill,  with  its  gay  white- 
washed houses,  diversified  with  red  and 
green,  lies  amid  an  Oriental  scene  of 
palm,  orange-groves,  flowers,  and  or- 
chards. The  bay  is  about  SO  m.  deep, 
and  narrows  between  the  headlands  of 
Randa  and  Bestias. 

^  The  castles  of  San  Sebastian  and  del 
Castro  crown  the  heights,  and  are 
intended  to  defend  the  place ;  that  of 
San  Julian  is  also  a  soi  disant  defence. 
The  view  from  those,  especially  the 
Castro,  is  truly  magnificent  The  old 
walls  and  gates,  the  steep,  winding 
narrow  streets,  the  craft,  the  dress  of 
the  peasants,  the  rich  tints,  soft,  mel- 
low, and  violet  of  the  distant  hills, 
serving  as  background  to  the  town, 
convent,  Castillo,  and  road,  as  seen 
from  the  bay,  all  are  well  worthy  of  an 
artist's  sketch-book. 

The  sights  are  indifferent ;  the  church 
is  modern,  of  the  classical  style,  and. 


lp/Hiv  A.&  C.Blank.Londnjx. 


J  B«flin1nMir.MMf 


ZARAGOZA — ROUTES. 


509 


though  simple,  is  of  good  proportions, 
and  deserves  to  be  completed.  There 
is  a  small  theatre,  and  charming  pro- 
menades by  the  Puerta  del  Placer  and 
Pnerta  del  Sol.  Trade  is  improving ; 
and  this  port,  a  rival  of  La  Corona, 
will  some  day  outstrip  it  in  prosperity, 
especially  when  all  the  new  lines  of 
railway  are  opened. 

"Hotels.— Continental,  on  the  Muelle, 
excellent.  Central,  good,  English 
spoken.  De  Europa,  near  the  station, 
fair. 

Cafts. — Mendez-Nunez,  Plaza  de  la 
Princesa ;  Snizo,  Calle  del  Principe. 


Post  and  Telegraph  Offices. — Calle 
Velazquez  Moreno. 

Casino. — Calle  Imperial.  Admission 
on  member's  introduction. 

Baths. — Calle  Real. 

British  Vice- Consul  and  U.S.A.  Con- 
sular Agent. — Manuel  Bftrcena  y  Franco, 
Calle  Real. 

Bankers.  —  Bank  of  Spain,  Calle 
Arenal ;  Augusto  Barcena  y  Franco, 
Calle  Real. 

Evangelical  Chapel. 

Books  of  Reference.  Vigo — 'Descripcion 
Topographical  '  Historica  de  la  C.  de  Vigo, 
su  Ria,'  etc.,  by  Taboada  y  Leal ;  Santiago, 
CompaSel,  1841.    410,  with  a  view. 


ZARAGOZA. 


Stat. — Capital  of  the  province  of  the 
same  name.  Bishop's  see.  Captaincy- 
General  of  Aragon  ;  population,  about 
87,000. 

Routes  and  Conveyances.  —  1. 
From  Madrid,  by  rail ;  time, 
9J  to  13  hrs.  (according  to 
trains) ;  two  trains  a  day. 
At  Madrid,  station  Puerta  de  Atocha. 
Fares:  lstcl.,  pes.  39.25;  2d  cl.,  pes. 
30.40.  Also  a  good  tri-weekly  express, 
leaving  Madrid  Mondays,  Wednesdays, 
and  Fridays,  and  returning  from  Zara- 
goza  Wednesday,  Friday,  and  Sunday 
mornings.  For  details  of  route  see 
Madrid,  from  Bayonne  by  Zaragoza. 

2.  From  Barcelona,  8  hrs.  by  express, 
11  hrs.  by  ordinary  train  (see  Barcelona 
from  Madrid  and  Zaragoza).  Two 
routes,  by  L£rida  and  by  Reus. 

3.  From  Bayonne,  see  Madrid  2, 
from  Bayonne  by  Zaragoza.  From 
Pamplona  by  rail  7  hrs.  15  min.,  two 
trains  a  day  ;  distance,  179  kil.  Fares : 
1st  cl.,  pes.  20.80;  2d  cl.,  pes.  15.60. 

4.  From  Valencia  by  Daroca  and 
Teruel ;  40  hrs. ;  offices,  Postas  de 
Aragon,  on  the  Coso  (see  Valencia). 

5.  Conveyances  to  and  from  Almunia, 
by  diligence,  2  hrs.,  every  other  day ; 


1  offices,  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion.  Esca- 
tron  by  dil.  from  Hijar  or  Caspe  on  the 
Reus  (Barcelona)  line.  From  Escatron 
(celebrated  marble  quarries)  small  steam 
launches,  etc.,  may  be  taken  to  Tortosa 
and  Amposta.  Bad  service  and  irregu- 
lar. Baths  of  La  Puda  (sulphurous 
and  saline) ;  by  rail  to  Olesa,  on  the 
Barcelona  line,  and  thence,  2  m.,  by 
omnibus.  Fair  accommodation  at  the 
Establecimicnto.  Season  June  15  to 
Sept.  15.  Cariflena  (great  wine  coun- 
try), by  rail,  two  trains  daily.  Huesca 
and  Panticosa:  to  Huesca  by  rail  vid 
Tardienta  on  the  Barcelona  line ; 
thence  branch  to  Huesca  in  about  1 
hr.  (see  p.  525).  From  Huesca  daily 
dil.  service  during  the  summer  to 
Panticosa,  about  50  m. 

6.  From  Tarragona.  By  the  direct 
(mail)  Barcelona  route,  vid  Reus,  Mora, 
and  Hijar.  Or  visiting  Lenda  on  the 
old  Barcelona  line  (Tarragona  to  Lerida, 
two  trains  daily  in  4  hrs.)  thus — 

Reus. — Fonda  de  Paris;  Fonda  de 
Londres.  A  rising  manufacturing  town, 
pop.  34,155.  In  province  of  Tarragona ; 
one  league  from  the  Puerto  de  Salou, 
one  of  the  safest  ports  on  that  coast, 
with  an  excellent  bottom  and  sheltered 


510 


ZARAGOZA — ROUTES. 


from  the  Levanter;  the  principal  ob- 
jects of  trade  and  manufacture  are  wine, 
silks,  and  cotton.  The  view  from  the 
church  of  San  Pedro  is  extensive  and 
fine.  Reus  is  the  title  given  in  1843 
to  General  Prim,  one  of  the  generals  of 
the  last  Morocco  excursion,  and  more 
successful  as  a  sabreur  than  as  a  diplo- 
matist {vide  his  Mexican  diplomatic 
campaign).  There  are  upwards  of  100 
large  factories  worked  by  steam,  one 
of  which  employs  600  workmen. 

Montblanoh.— 4200  inhabitants^  in 
a  fertile  plain  watered  by  the  Francoli, 
and  girdled  by  ancient  crumbling  walls 
and  gates.  A  few  miles  from  it  is  the 
mined  monastery  of  Poblet,  founded 
in  the  12th  century  by  Ramon  Beren- 
guer  upon  the  spot  where  the  body  of 
a  venerated  hermit  (Poblet)  was  miracu- 
lously discovered.  One  of  the  most 
powerful  and  longest  lived  religious 
houses  in  Europe,  and  the  Escorial  of 
the  kings  of  Aragon,  the  monastery 
was  cruelly  destroyed  about  85  years 
ago,  and  now  presents  only  a  series  of 
fine  remains — of  church,  cloister,  cell, 
and  palace, — partly  Romanesque,  partly 
early,  partly  late  Gothic.  A  visit  to 
it  should  on  no  account  be  omitted. 

Iierida. —  Capital  of  province  ;  on 
right  bank  of  Segre ;  pop.  23,700. 
Hotel  de  Espafla,  Fonda  Suiza  (fair). 
A  cafe  and  a  casino.  A  Roman  Muni- 
cipium,  and  much  patronised  by  the 
Goths,  who  raised  it  to  a  bishopric, 
a.d.  546,  and  held  here  a  celebrated 
council  The  old  city  has  been  so  often 
besieged  and  sacked — by  Goths,  Moors 
and  French — that  but  few  of  its  ancient 
things  are  left  to  it.  Yet  Lerida  is  a 
most  interesting  place  for  the  student 
of  life  and  character,  the  antiquary  or 
ecclesiologist.  The  church  of  San  Juan, 
in  the  Plaza  Mayor,  lately  restored,  is  a 
fine  specimen  of  Romanesque.  Observe 
especially  the  S.  portal,  a  reproduction 
of  the  great  Infantes  portal  of  the 


cathedral.  San  Lorenzo,  behind  the 
new  cathedral,  has  been  defaced  by 
modern  decoration,  and  by  an  incon- 
gruous chapel  at  the  S.  W.  angle,  but  it 
nevertheless  is  a  remarkable  specimen 
of  solid  and  honest  13th-century  work. 
Notice  the  fine  14th-century  retablo. 

There  are  some  interesting  house* 
fronts  here,  too,  and  prout-bits ;  but, 
above  all  else,  fail  not  to  visit  (permit 
from  the  Gobierao  Militar,  in  the  Calle 
Mayor,  difficult  to  procure). 

The  ancient  Cathedral. — There  are 
vestiges  still  here,  and  most  magnifi- 
cent, of  the  Byzantine  and  semi-Moorish 
architecture  in  Spain,  which  render  it 
a  very  interesting  sight.  The  front  is 
Gothic ;  the  statues  of  the  apostles  that 
are  wanting,  and  the  Virgin  to  place  on 
the  pillar  dividing  the  door,  are  to  be 
seen  in  the  small  church  of  San  Pablo, 
but  are  worth  little.  By  a  curious  ex- 
ception the  cloisters  precede  the  church 
itself,  and  are  interesting,  Byzantine, 
and  evidencing  much  Moorish  gusto. 
The  church  is  a  Latin  cross,  with  a 
cimborio  in  centre,  and  large  apsis  at 
the  end.  At  each  end  of  the  transept 
is  a  portada — that  to  N.  is  purely  By- 
zantine. This  church  is  now  a  store- 
house and  barracks,  and  became  so  when 
Lenda  was  taken  by  the  troops  of  Philip 
V.,  and  the  stories  were  made  with 
walls  and  partitions.  It  has  three 
naves ;  the  capitals  of  the  columns  are 
a  perfect  and  complete  study  of  the  By- 
zantine-Gothic ornament,  grecas,  mon- 
sters, serpents,  curious  combinations  of 
leaves.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  the 
crypt  about  this  portion — such  as  the 
low,  heavy,  denuded,  damp  roof,  the 
low  baseless  pillars,  the  dubious  light, 
etc.  The  windows  are  Byzantine  and 
almost  unique  in  Spain,  and  daily  be- 
coming rarer  to  meet  with.  The  Gothic 
seems  to  spring  from  a  happy  combina- 
tion of  Byzantine -Moorish.  The  S. 
door  of  transept  is  of  an  original  and 


ZARAGOZA. 


511 


quaint  style.  Observe  the  semicircular 
arch,  double  cylinders,  very  deeply  re- 
cessed, resting  on  pillars,  with  fantastical 
animals  on  the  capitals  and  arabesques 
and  rope-work.  Over  the  door  an  in- 
r cription  in  majuscule  Byzantine-Gothic, 
containing  beginning  of  the  Virgin's 
Salutation  and  the  date  1215.  This 
portada  is  crowned  by  a  cornice  with 
fantastic  figures  and  sculptured  heads. 
The  best  portion  of  this  cathedral  is  the 
great  lateral  portal  called  dels  Fillols, 
or  Infantes,  in  the  centre  bay  of  the  S. 
aisle ;  it  is  wide  and  lofty,  composed  of 
numerous  arches  with  many  details. 
The  cornice  and  everything  else  is  full 
of  details  and  patterns,  semi-Moorish, 
Byzantine,  and  partly  Gothic,  and  most 
beautiful. 

This  ancient  cathedral  was  begun 
July  1203  by  Pedro  I.  the  Catholic, 
and  was  consecrated  in  1278.  The 
architect  is  said  by  some  to  have  been 
one  Pedro  Dercumba,  as  appears  on  a 
slab  placed  between  the  Presbytery 
and  the  transept  The  cloisters  were 
erected  for  and  under  Arnaldo  Ces- 
comes,  Bishop  of  Lerida  in  the  14th 
century.  At  the  taking  of  Lerida,  un- 
der Philip  V.,  the  French  Governor 
d'Aubigne  sacked  the  cathedral,  de- 
stroyed the  magnificent  episcopal  palace, 
etc.  In  1759  Charles  III.  granted  to 
the  chapter  a  site  for  the  new  cathedral, 
and  240,000r.  a-year  until  its  comple- 
tion. The  actual  one  is  Greco-Roman, 
grandiose,  lofty,  consisting  of  three 
naves,  the  choir  in  the  centre,  with 
goodish  sculpture,  and  numerous  chapels 
on  the  sides.  It  was  designed  by  Cer- 
ine&o  and  Sabatini ;  the  altars  by  Juan 
Adan,  an  R.A.  who  came  on  purpose 
from  Italy.  The  choir  is  by  Boniface, 
and  indifferent.  The  Corinthian  order 
has  been  strictly  observed  throughout. 

In  the  sacristy  of  the  new  cathedral, 
among  other  relics,  are  kept  Christ's 
swaddling-clothes,  sent  by  Sultan  Sula- 


din  to  the  king  of  Tunis,  1238,  whence 
a  Lerida  captive  woman  saw  it,  and 
quietly  robbing  it—'  il  est  avec  le  ciel 
des  accommodements, — sent  it  to  Bishop 
Geraldo.  Lerida  is  the  second  town 
in  Cataluna,  and  is  on  the  highway  to 
prosperity,  thanks  to  the  railway. 
From  Lerida  to  Zaragoza,  see  Barcelona. 

Zaragoza. 
Hotels.— De  Europa,  on  the  Plaza  de 
la  Constitucion  ;  Del  Universo  y  delta 
Cuatro  Naciones,  and  Lyon  a"  Or,  Calle 
Jaime  I.,  and  near  the  cathedrals. 
All  fair  ;  the  second  the  best. 

Cafes.  —  Suizo,  Matossi,  Ambos  los 
Mundos,  on  the  Sta.  Engracia  Paseo ; 
Paris,  Coso  56. 

Casinos.  —  Two  ;  French,  but  no 
English  papers.  Strangers  admitted  for 
one  month  on  member's  introduction. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offices. — Calle  de 
la  Independencia  (Sta.  Engracia  Paseo) 
No.  9.  Two  deliveries  daily.  French 
and  English  letters  arrive  at  night,  and 
are  delivered  early  in  the  morning. 
Hours  for  registration  and  poste  restanU 
business,  9-11  a.m.,  and  4-7  p.m. 
(For  General  Directory  see  p.  521.) 
Climate. — The  climate  is  generally 
wholesome,  but  the  weather  changes 
suddenly,  and  is  variable,  owing  to  the 
proximity  of  the  Moncayo  hills,  and 
the  range  of  Sierra  de  Guara,  from 
which  the  winds  are  icy,  and  the  ther- 
mometer, when  they  blow,  often  falls 
8  to  10  degrees  Rh.  Mortality-tables 
are  1 .30  and  1. 31,  old  age  being  uncom- 
mon. The  most  frequent  illnesses  are 
pneumonia,  catarrh,  etc.,  and  during  the 
summer,  intermittent  fevers.  The  most 
prevalent  wind  is  the  cold  W.  or  Cierzo, 
which  lasts  sometimes  very  long.  That 
which  comes  from  the  E.  is  called 
Bochorno,  and  is  very  warm  (whence 
abochornado) ;  that  from  S.  is  the 
Castellan  o,  and  the  N.  is  called  the 
Solano.     The  water  is  brackish,  wlience 


012 


ZARAGOZA. 


the  local  saying,  '  Mas  comemos  de  lo 
que  hebemos' — i.e.  'we  eat  our  drink.' 


Mean  annual  barom.  pressure 
„        ,,        temperature     . 
Maximum  temperature  (Aug.  15) 
Minimum  „  (Jan.  13) 

Number  of  rainy  days  . 
Quantity  fallen     .... 


742.96 

15-7 

44  4 

3.2 

6a 

3643 


General  Description.— Zaragoza  is 
pleasantly  situated  in  one  of  the  most 
fertile  vegas  in  Aragon,  watered  by  the 
Ebro,  Gallego,  Jalon  ( '  qui  ferrum 
gelat')  and  the  Huerba.  The  country 
around  is  studded  with  olive -groves, 
whose  dark,  melancholy  foliage  con- 
trasts with  the  whitewashed  and  gay- 
looking  villas.  Time-honoured  Zara- 
goza, the  stronghold  of  the  proud  and 
independent  Aragonese,  the  favoured 
city  of  Santiago,  and  *  patronised  by 
the  Virgin — who  visited  it  occasionally 
herself,  and  bestowed  upon  it  and  its 
province  all  manner  of  blessings  and 
especial  mercies' — is  one  of  the  cities  in 
Spain  which,  from  their  out-of-the-way 
situation  and  other  causes,  have  pre- 
served all  their  charming  peculiar 
coulewr  locale,  and  pristine  character. 
There  are  but  very  few  and  unimport- 
ant vestiges  of  the  Roman  period  ;  the 
Goths  have  likewise  left  but  shadows 
of  their  rule  and  time  ;  but  the  spirit 
of  the  Moor  and  mediaeval  Spaniard 
remains,  and  that  quaint  and  charming 
style  of  architecture  —  viz.  the  Ara- 
gonese plateresque — which  arose  from 
the  amalgamation  of  both  races,  is 
here  exhibited  in  several  buildings,  and 
more  especially  in  private  houses. 
The  numerous  patios  decorated  with 
fountains  and  flower- vases ;  the  narrow 
and  winding  lanes  (a  system  of  defence 
both  against  man  and  heat) ;  the  richly- 
carved  soffits  and  painted  rafters  ;  the 
variegated  coloured  tiles  on  some  build- 
ings and  domes  ;  the  very  inhabitants, 
whose  fiery  features,  with  the  yet 
melancholy,  dreamy  eye,  tawny  skin, 


bare  sinewy  legs,  arms,  and  chest, 
their  handkerchiefs  turbaned  round 
their  expressive  heads,  and  the  manta 
loosely  thrown  across  their  shoulder — 
all  bespeak  the  long  dominion  of  the 
Berber  (rather  than  the  Moor),  and 
have  a  most  striking  and  novel  appear- 
ance to  the  tourist  who  comes  from 
France.  This  old-fashioned  city  will, 
moreover,  interest  the  tourist  by  its 
monuments  and  edifices,  the  Pilar,  the 
Seo,  and  its  oriental  Torre  Nueva  and 
venerable  Lonja — all  of  which  may  be 
seen  in  one  day. 

In  another  and  more  positive  sense, 
Zaragoza  is  dull,  backward  ;  and  books 
and  science  are  here,  together  with 
trade  and  manufactures,  among  things 
utterly  unknown  or  neglected ;  but 
the  railway,  which  places  it  on  the 
high  and  most  direct  road  between 
the  Mediterranean  and  the  Atlantic, 
will,  let  us  hope,  alter  things,  and  shed 
prosperity  and  the  light  of  the  age 
on  this  somewhat  gloomy  and  silent 
city. 

Historical  Notice.— The  monkish 
historians  of  that  happy  age,  when  those 
who  were  not  called  upon  to  break  each 
other's  heads  found  leisure  to  pasar  el 
rato  in  cool  cloisters,  if  such  was  their 
pleasure,  and  make  that  rato  their  whole 
life,  were  often  wont  to  amuse  them- 
selves and  their  few  readers  with  idle 
researches  de  re  scibili,  but  more  espe- 
cially et  quibusdam  aliis,  and  thus 
have — not  gravely,  we  think — asserted 
that  Zaragoza  was  founded  by  Noah's 
nephew  Tubal,  in  the  year  242  post 
diluvium,  omitting  to  state  the  month, 
day,  and  hour.  But  whether  Salduba, 
its  former  name,  means  in  Chaldaic 
the  property  of  Tubal,  or  City  of  the 
Sun,  we  can  only  state  that  its  stra- 
tegical importance,  as  it  commands  the 
passage  of  the  Ebro,  did  not  fail  to 
attract  the  Roman's  eye,  that  Caesar 
Augustus  walled  it  in,  granting  to  it 


ZARAGOZA. 


513 


besides  the  advantages  of  a  Colonia 
immunis,  and  quartering  here  several 
legions  to  watch  over  the  important 
and  troublesome  Roman  provinces  of 
Edetania,  Celtiberia,  and  Yasconia. 
It  then  was  called  Cflesarea- Augusta ; 
which  the  Moors  converted  into  Sara- 
costa,  to  become  finally  Zaragoza. 
Taken  by  the  Suevi,  under  Recchario, 
in  452,  and  from  these  by  the  Goths, 
in  466,  the  city  in  the  8th  century 
fell  an  easy  prey  into  the  eager  hands 
of  the  Berber  Tarik,  who  made  it  the 
stronghold  and  capital  of  his  eastern 
dominions,  and  waged  war  against 
the  Khalif  of  Cordova.  In  777  the 
Sheik,  Suleyman  ben  Alarabi,  sent 
Oassim  ben  Yussuf  to  Paderborn,  and 
implored  the  aid  of  Charlemagne,  the 
great  Karilah,  who,  seizing  this  oppor- 
tunity of  acquiring  territories  in  Spain 
and  crushing  the  infidel,  rushed  into 
Spain  headlong  like  a  torrent  by  the 
defiles  of  Ibaneta  and  Altabiscar,  but, 
on  the  general  rising  of  the  Berbers 
against  him,  had  to  retire,  and  lost 
most  of  his  Frank  cavalry  at  Ronces- 
valles,  where  the  Basques  rushed  out 
of  their  dens  on  the  foe,  uttering  the 
Ir-rinzi  war-cry.  Civil  war  ensued, 
till  Seif-el-Daulah  surrendered  the 
town  to  Alfonso-el-Batallador  (1118), 
after  a  siege  which  lasted  five  years. 
Under  the  kings  of  Aragon,  Zaragoza 
was,  alternately  with  Huesca,  the 
capital  of  the  kingdom,  until  the 
marriage  of  its  king,  Ferdinand  II., 
with  Isabella  of  Castille,  when  both 
these  kingdoms  were  united.  (For 
more  details,  see  Aragon.)  In  modern 
times,  Zaragoza  has  been  the  scene  of 
strife  and  destruction,  and  its  name  is 
associated  in  the  annals  of  the  Penin- 
sular war  with  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated sieges  any  city  has  ever  sus- 
tained. On  its  first  rising,  in  1808, 
against  the  French,  General  Lefevre 
Desnouettes  besieged  the  town,  assert- 


ing he  would  soon  reduce  it,  '  malgre" 
les  30,000  idiots  qui  s'y  opposeraient ;' 
but  his  military  skill  proved  of  no 
avail  against  the  testarudo  (headstrong) 
Aragonese,  who,  ill  provided  as  they 
were  with  arms  and  ammunition,  con- 
trived to  succeed  in  repelling  every 
attack,  obliging  the  besieging  army 
finally  to  withdraw.  The  second  siege 
began  December  21,  1808,  when  a 
formidable  army  (18,000  men),  under 
Moncey,  Lannes,  Junot,  and  Mortier, 
well  supplied  with  siege  artillery, 
made  their  appearance,  and  instantly 
commenced  the  attack.  The  defences 
of  the  town  consisted  of  some  ill-pro- 
visioned forts,  hurriedly  repaired,  on 
the  Ebro  and  Huerba,  and  its  enceinte 
consisted  of  a  wall  3  ft.  thick,  and 
10  ft.  to  1 2  ft.  high.  There  was  within 
it  no  organised  army  ;  no  established 
government ;  and  the  sole  authorities 
which  the  people  would  obey  were  some 
stout  peasants  elected  by  them  for  the 
occasion,  and  young  Palafox,  a  hand- 
some but  not  an  intelligent  officer  of 
the  king's  body-guard,  who  was  an  hijo 
of  Zaragoza,  and,  moreover,  as  bold  as 
any.  The  siege  lasted  sixty-two  days 
of  constant  attack  and  resistance,  when 
'  war  to  the  knife, '  '  Guerra  al  cuchillo,  * 
Zaragoza  no  se  rinde,'  etc.,  were  the 
Spartiate  dogged  answers  of  the  besieged 
to  any  proposal  of  capitulation  on 
honourable  terms.  Famine  was  making 
sad  havoc  among  the  defenders,  every 
house  became  an  hospital ;  and  yet  the 
hungered,  emaciated  peasant,  under  the 
excitement  of  a  religious  feeling,  active- 
ly kept  up  by  the  example  and  words  of 
the  priests,  who  were  fighting  for  their 
holy  privileges  and  power,  went  one 
after  another  firing  his  escopeta  or 
blunderbuss,  whilst  houses  were  crumb- 
ling down  in  all  directions,  and  the 
deafening  roar  of  the  cannon  and  its 
vivid  flashes  made  the  scene  fiendish. 
The  city  was  maddened  with  patriotism 
L 


514 


ZARAGOZA. 


and  hatred  of  the  foreigner,  and  there 
was  insulting  singing  and  dancing  about 
the  streets,  and  processions  to  the  Vir- 
gen  del  Pilar,  who  was  proclaimed  cap- 
tain-general     Heroism  was  the  usual 
nature  of  every  man,  nay  of  women 
also,  who  played  a  prominent  part  in 
the  defence,  and  were  headed  by  Agus- 
tina,  a  very  pretty  girl  aged  only  22, 
and  possessing  the  softest  style  of  femi- 
nine beauty.     She  fought  side  by  side 
with  her  lover,  an  artilleryman,  and 
when  he  fell  mortally  wounded   she 
worked  the  gun  herself. 
Ye  who  shall  marvel  when  you  hear  her  tale, 
Oh  !  had  you  known  her  in  her  softer  hour, 
Mark'd  her  black  eye  that  mocks  her  coal- 
black  veil, 
Heard  her  light,  lively  tones  in  lady's  bower, 
Seen  her  long  locks  that  foil  the  painter's  power, 
Her  fairy  form,  with  more  than  female  grace, 
Scarce  would  you  deem  that  Zaragoza's  tower 
Beheld  her  smile  in  danger's  Gorgon  face, 
Thin  the  closed  ranks,  and  lead  in  glory's  fear- 
ful chase. 

Her  lover  sinks— she  sheds  no  ill-timed  tear ; 
Her  chief  is  slain — she  fills  his  fatal  post ; 
Her  fellows  flee — she  checks  their  base  career ; 
The  foe  retires — she  heads  the  sallying  host ; 
Who  can  appease  like  her  a  lover's  ghost  ? 
Who  can  avenge  so  well  a  leader's  fall  ? 
What  maid  retrieve  when  man's  flush'd  hope 

is  lost? 
Who  hang  so  fiercely  on  the  flying  Gaul, 
Foil'd  by  a  woman's  hand,  before  a  batterM 

wall? 

Yet  are  Spain's  maids  no  race  of  Amazons, 
But  formed  for  all  the  witching  arts  of  love. 

•  *  *  • 

In  softness  as  in  firmness  far  above 
Remoter  females,  famed  for  sickening  prate ; 
Her  mind  is  nobler  sure,  her  charms  perchance 
as  great. 

Childe  Harold,  Cantos  lv.  lvi.  Ivii. 

Agustina's  portrait  was  painted  by 
Wilkie. 

At  length,  and  after  several  desperate 
assaults,  10,000  French  rushed  into 
the  town,  frenzied  with  the  direful  re- 
sistance. The  siege  continued  in  the 
street,  on  the  roofs  of  houses,  in  the 
cellars  ;  every  house  became  a  fortress ; 
the  bells  of  Torre  Nueva  rang  when- 


ever the  watchman  descried  that  a  gut 
was  about  to  be  fired  ;  at  that  funereal 
sound  dancers  and  singers  would  cease 
on  the  Coso,  the  people  kneel,  crossing 
themselves ;  and  the  explosion  over, 
resume  their  sublime  folly,  or  rush  to 
the  mock  ramparts  and  take  the  place 
of  those  who  had  fallen.  15,000  were 
now  dead  or  dying ;  Palafox  bedridden 
and  delirious;  and  as  an  instance  of 
the  resistance,  fifty  guns  scarcely  suf- 
ficed to  reduce  a  convent  which  had  to 
be  assaulted.  The  old  building  of  the 
University  burnt  like  a  hellish  bonfire. 
The  combat  in  the  streets  continued 
for  twenty-one  days;  but  finally,  'le 
21  fevrier,  (1809)*  writes  M.  Thiers, 
'  10,000  fantassins,  2000  cavaliers, 
pales,  maigres,  abattus,  defilerent 
devant  nos  soldats  saisis  de  pitie. 
Oeux-ci  entrerent  ensuite  dans  la  cite 
infortunle,  qui  ne  presentait  que  des 
mines  remplies  de  cadavres  en  putrefac- 
tion. '  The  ^unta  had  at  last  agreed  to 
surrender,  but  on  the  most  honourable 
terms.  Thus  ended  a  siege  which  has 
few  parallels  in  ancient  or  modern  times, 
save  in  Spain  herself,  that  dura  telhts, 
who  gave  other  and  as  great  examples 
at  Saguntum,  Numantia,  Calahorra, 
etc 

Sights.  —  Cathedral    of    La    Seo 
Cathedral    del    Filar,     Lonja,    Torre 
Nueva,  Aljaferia,  minor  churches,  and 
private  houses. 

©tie  ©«tycUrai — La  Seo;  its  History. — 
The  See,  Sedes,  and  here  from  the 
Limousin  Seu,  is  the  name  applied  in 
Cataluna  and  Aragon  to  all  the  cathe- 
dral churches.  Thus,  La  Seu  de  Urgel, 
de  Manresa,  Barcelona,  etc.  Zaragoza 
possesses  two  cathedrals,  of  which  the 
present  one  is  the  earliest  The  antiquity 
of  this  severe,  sombre,  and  noble  pile  is 
great,  for  it  already  existed  in  290, 
when  its  bishop  was  St  Valerio.  It 
was  turned  by  the  Berbers  into  their 
principal  mosque,  to  return  to  its  for- 


ZARAGOZA— CATHEDRAL. 


515 


mer  object  in  1119,  when  the  cathedral 
was  consecrated  to  the  Saviour.  Con- 
siderable repairs  and  enlargement  of 
portions  now  began,  but  progressed 
very  slowly  through  want  of  funds. 
Indeed,  in  the  supposed  ages  of  faith, 
faith  was  somewhat  reluctant  to  give 
up  any  money  for  its  own  support  and 
that  of  the  clergy,  and  it  was  only 
after  centuries  of  ordained  limosnas, 
taxes  on  food,  land  revenue,  etc., 
that  the  cathedrals,  which  we  now- 
a-days  repair  in  a  few  years  through 
voluntary  subscriptions,  were  built 
or  enlarged.  Thus  Bishop  Pedro 
Farroga  had  to  apply  to  Clement 
III.  (1188)  to  enforce  and  generalise 
the  good  and  pious  habit  of  donations, 
bequests,  etc.  ;  anathemas  were  pro- 
nounced against  those  who  should  resist 
or  in  any  way  oppose  the  measure. 
About  1313  the  central  nave  was  built, 
and  the  two  lateral  ones  rose  up  not 
long  after.  Towards  the  end  of  the 
15th  century  the  foundations  partly 
gave  way,  and  to  remedy  the  evil  the 
greatest  architects  of  the  day  were 
called  to  meet  the  emergency ;  thus 
Enrique  de  Egas  came  from  Toledo, 
Barcelona  despatched  Juan  Font,  etc. 
The  cimborio  was  rebuilt,  but  not  com- 
pleted till  1520.  By  the  advice  and 
with  the  protection  of  Archbishop 
Fernando  de  Aragon,  who  considered 
that  the  church  was  too  wide  for  its 
length,  two  rows  of  arches  were  added 
(1550)  to  each  of  the  five  naves. 

Style  and  ProportioTis. — The  edifice 
has  preserved  but  few  and  unimportant 
vestiges  of  the  original  period.  The 
apse,  and  portions  around  it,  the  two 
Byzantine  windows  towards  the  Archie- 
piscopal  Palace,  etc.,  exemplify  the  style 
of  that  epoch  ;  the  Gothic,  Revival  and 
Classical  have  each  left  their  broad  mark, 
while  Moorish  influence  is  not  wanting. 
The  interior,  although  dating  of  the 
1 4th,  15th,  and  16th  centuries,  is  not 


wanting  in  homogeneity,  the  fact  being 
easily  explained  by  the  general  repairs 
that  it  underwent  in  the  15th  century  ; 
and  the  general  style  is  Gothic. 

Exterior. — The  Seo,  or  Salvador,  is 
situated  in  a  large  square  to  the  right 
of  the  archiepiscopal  palace,  and  almost 
opposite  to  the  sombre,  time-honoured, 
and  very  characteristic  Lonja.  The 
first  impression,  and  indeed  the  last 
(of  the  facade),  is  unfavourable.  The 
style  belongs  to  that  pseudo-classical 
called  Graeco-Roman,  and  disfigures 
the  entrance  to  this  noble  old  Gothic 
basilica.  Corinthian  pillars  decorate 
the  first  portion  ;  and  above,  in  niches, 
are  placed  the  statues  of  SS.  Peter  and 
Paul  on  the  sides  of  an  effigy  of  the 
Saviour.  This  is  the  work  of  one 
Julian  Yarza,  who  put  it  up  about 
1683,  the  statues  by  Giral.  Observe 
here  and  there  the  portions  of  original 
Moorish  brick-work  which  have  escaped 
the  classical  mania,  and  more  especially 
the  face  of  the  wall  at  the  N.E.  angle ; 
the  Romanesque  or  Byzantine  lower 
portion  of  the  apse,  and  several  of  the 
buttresses.  The  Tower  is  octangular, 
lofty,  divided  into  three  stages,  of  classi- 
cal style,  and  decorated  with  Corinthian 
pillars  and  allegorical  statues,  all  the 
work  of  Juan  Bautista  Contini,  1685, 
who  was  aided  by  native  sculptors  and 
architects.  The  statues  of  1790  are  by 
one  Arali.  It  is  light,  not  wanting  in 
elegance,  but  quite  out  of  keeping  with 
the  character  of  the  building.  It  was 
struck  by  lightning  in  1850,  when  the 
upper  portion  was  destroyed.  The 
other  tower  was  designed,  but  is  un- 
finished, and  will,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  re- 
main always  so.  The  facade  and  Puerta 
de  la  Pavorderia  are  better,  plateresque, 
not  wanting  in  elegance  ;  and  with  a 
noble  lonja.  It  is  the  work  of  the 
Moorish  artist  Al-Rami,  and  dates  about 
1498. 

Interior. — The  entrance  is  unfortu- 


516 


ZARAQOZA — CATHEDRAL. 


nately  placed  in  an  angle  of  the  edifice, 
the  choir  blocking  up  the  central 
nave ;  these  two  defects  contribute  to 
darken  the  interior,  mar  the  general 
vista,  and  diminish  the  apparent  size  ; 
and  yet  the  effect  is  grand,  even  when 
seen  after  other  and  larger  Spanish 
churches.  It  looks  broader  than  long, 
has  two  aisles  on  each  side  of  the  nave, 
and  chapels  between  the  buttresses. 
There  is  great  soberness  of  ornamenta- 
tion, excepting  the  chapels,  airy  light- 
ness about  the  pillars,  which  are  of  the 
purest  Gothic,  and  great  loftiness  and 
boldness.  Ceremonies  of  great  import- 
ance, state,  and  splendour,  have  taken 
place  here ;  and  this  was  the  Rheims  of 
Aragon,  where  its  kings  were  anointed 
and  crowned.  Solemn  Juras  of  cortes, 
watches  or  veladas  of  knights  postu- 
lants, the  Christmas  mass  said  by  Pope 
Benedict  XIII.  in  1410,  etc.  ;  and  in 
1487  the  Christmas  religious  perform- 
ance in  the  presence  of  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  when  a  mystery  was  acted,  the 
subject  of  which  was  the  Nativity  of 
Christ.  In  the  archives  of  this  cathe- 
dral are  the  curious  data  respecting  it, 
and  an  account  of  the  expenses  that 
were  incurred.  Among  the  latter  we 
read  : — '  Seven  sueldos  for  making  up 
the  heads  of  the  bullock  and  donkey,  in 
the  stable  at  Bethlehem ;  six  sueldos  for 
wigs  for  those  who  are  to  represent  the 
prophets.  Ten  sueldos  for  six  pairs  of 
gloves  to  be  worn  by  the  angels,  etc. 
The  five  spacious  naves,  roofed  at  the 
same  level,  are  divided  by  twenty  piers, 
of  five  in  a  row,  the  capitals  of  which 
bear  the  vaulting.  The  groining  is 
covered  with  ogee  Heme  ribs,  and  is 
decorated  with  heavy  bosses  and  gilt 
pendants  which  bear  the  arches.  Each 
pier  is  formed  of  groups  of  shafts,  and 
rests  on  yellow  marble  pedestals  and 
bases.  The  capitals  have  carvings  of 
fat,  nude  cherubs,  supporting  coats  of 
arms,  a  detail  which  assigns  a  later 


period  to  portions  of  the  interior  than 
is  generally  believed.  The  sharp  ogive 
of  the  archives  is  of  the  best  Gothic 
period,  and  full  of  elegance.  The  pave- 
ment, with  its  variegated  marbles  and 
rays  diverging  from  the  bases  of  the 
piers,  is  intended  with  its  colours  and 
design  to  reproduce  or  reflect,  as  on  a 
mirror,  the  tracery  of  the  roof  studded 
with  rosettes  and  wheels ;  it  is  the  work 
of  Maestro  Muza,  a  Moorish  artificer 
most  probably,  and  dates  1432. 

High  Altar, — It  is  placed  under  the 
cimborio,  which  the  founder  of  the 
high  altar,  Archbishop  Don  Pedro  de 
Luna,  caused  to  be  shaped  into  a 
tiara ;  but  a  century  later  it  was  turned 
into  an  octagonal  form,  and  the  cornice 
and  niches  of  the  statues  were  adapted 
to  the  plateresque.  The  moon  and 
other  canting  arms  of  the  founder  may 
be  seen  sculptured  on  the  lateral  arches. 
The  three  arched  windows  above  the 
niches  are  Gothic,  and  between  both 
portions  runs  a  plateresque  frieze 
formed  by  a  long  Limousin  inscription 
giving  tiie  history  of  the  cimborio. 
From  the  cornice  spring  the  airy  but- 
tresses which  rise  to  support  the  dome, 
which  is  decorated  with  sixteen  golden 
Fleurons.  The  cimborio  is  opened  in 
the  upper  part,  thus  allowing  the  oc- 
tagonal lantern  being  seen,  which  is 
lighted  by  skylights. 

Retablo  Mayor. — This  is  all  of  ala- 
baster and  excellent  Gothic  style,  and 
is  divided  into  seven  compartments.  It 
dates  1456,  and  is  the  work  of  Dalmau 
de  Mur.  Observe  the  groups  repre- 
senting Martyrdom  of  San  Lorenzo, 
Burial  of  San  Vicente,  San  Valero  in 
presence  of  the  'tirano,'  and  the  mir- 
acle of  casting  off  a  devil  from  another 
poor  devil's  body  which  was  effected  by 
the  presence  of  the  head  of  this  saint, 
when  it  was  removed  from  Rhodes  to 
Zaragpza  in  1169.  On  the  sides  are  effi* 
I  gies  of  San  Valero  and  San  Vicente. 


ZARAGOZA — CATHEDRAL. 


517 


The  principal  portion  is  filled  up  by 
three  fine  full  relievos  representing  in 
the  centre  the  Adoration  of  Kings,  and 
at  the  sides  the  Transfiguration  and 
Ascension.  These,  with  the  angels  bear- 
ing shields,  etc.,  are  by  Martinez  de 
Donatelo.  Observe  the  fine  plateresque 
sedilia.  Behind,  on  the  Gospel  side,  is 
buried  Maria,  daughter  of  Bon  Jaime  el 
Conquistador,  ob.  at  Zaragoza  1267. 
The  archbishop,  S.  Juan  of  Aragon, 
brother  of  Ferdinand  the  Catholic,  lies 
buried  here  also.  Observe  his  recum- 
bent effigy  and  plateresque  tomb.  The 
son  and  nephew  of  Ferdinand  V.,  both 
archbishops  of  Zaragoza,  ate  likewise 
buried  here  ;  and  to  the  left  is  deposit- 
ed the  heart  of  the  Infante  Baltasar 
Carlos,  eldest  son  of  Philip  IV.,  who 
died  here,  aged  17,  1646,  and  has  been 
bo  often  painted  by  Velazquez. 

Choir, — In  the  centre  lies  the  founder, 
Archbishop  Mur,  whose  shield  is  carved 
on  the  prelate's  chair.  The  silleria  is 
Gothic  and  plain.  The  lectern  and  base 
of  the  organ  are  elaborately  carved,  and 
date  1413. 

Trascoro. — It  is  of  stucco,  clay,  and 
marble,  out  of  which  have  been  worked 
the  present  fine  plateresque  relievos 
representing  martyrdom  of  San  Lorenzo 
and  San  Vicente,  whose  statues,  etc,  are 
all  by  Tudelilla  of  Tarazona,  1538. 
They  are  Italian-like,  boldly  handled, 
and  most  effective ;  wanting,  perhaps, 
in  delicacy  of  execution  and  finish  of 
details.  A  tabernacle  with  six  Solo- 
minic  black  marble  columns ;  canopies 
in  the  centre  of  the  trascoro  ;  an  indif- 
ferently carved  crucifix;  and  to  the 
right  is  the  kneeling  statue  of  Canon 
Funes,  to  whom  the  Virgin  spoke  in 
this  very  spot — in  what  tongue  is  not 
ascertained.  But  he  would  be  a  bold 
man  who  would  venture  to  hint  to  a 
Zaragozano  that  the  language  spoken  on 
this  occasion  was  not  the  purest — not 
Castilian,  for  that  would  not  do — but 


Aragonese  Spanish,  with  a  broad  Limou- 
sin pronunciation. 

Chapels. — They  are  mostly  churri- 
gueresque,  tawdry,  heavy,  and  without 
good  pictures,  etc. ;  the  rejas  enclosing 
them  are  better — those  especially  of  San 
Gabriel,  San  Miguel. 

CapUla  de  San  Bernardo. — Founded 
by  Archbishop  Fernando  de  Aragon, 
who  lies  here  opposite  to  his  mother, 
with  a  fine  statue  and  relievos.  The 
alabaster  retablo  represents  scenes  of 
life  of  the  Saint  'whom  the  Virgin 
suckled,  and  to  whom  she  dictated 
books. '  The  archbishop's  effigy  is  very 
finely  executed  by  Diego  Morlanes.  The 
small  alabaster  '  Resurrection '  is  by  Be- 
cerra.  The  recumbent  statue  of  the 
founder's  mother  is  also  by  Diego. 

Church  of  San  Gabriel. — A  fine  spe- 
cimen of  plateresque,  founded  by  one 
of  the  Zaporta  family ;  ob.  1579. 

Church  of  San  Miguel. — Founded  by 
Archbishop  Luna,  who  lies  here. 

Sacristia. — Notice  on  entering  the 
fine  cinquecento  door,  and  see  the 
magnificent  ternos ;  one  formerly  be- 
longing to  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Paul  at 
London,  and  bought  at  the  time  of  the 
Reformation.  To  the  right  of  the  sa- 
cristy is  the  Sala  Capitular,  where  there 
are  besides  several  indifferent  pictures 
— some  by  Ribera,  and  two  Zurbarans ; 
of  the  latter  the  Dead  Christ  is  especially 
fine,  but  the  light  is  very  bad  and  in- 
grata.  Visit  the  reliquary  and  jewels. 
Observe  the  silver  custodia  of  1537,  the 
cross  of  gold  on  which  the  kings  of  Ara- 
gon took  the  oath  to  respect  the  fueros 
of  Aragon,  the  terno  of  Archbishop  Fer- 
nando de  Aragon.  Do  not  leave  the 
church  without  noticing  at  the  E.  end 
of  the  N.  aisle  the  gravestones  of  five 
prelates,  placed  here  when  the  cathedral 
was  repaved ;  and,  at  the  £.  end  of  the 
extreme  S.  aisle,  the  tomb  of  San  Pedro 
Arbues,  tutelar  and  Inquisitor. 

Cafycftral  ftcl  9(Ur. — A  contrast  with 


518 


ZARAGOZA — CATHEDRAL. 


La  Seo,  as  to  style  and  character  of  the 
times,  not  all  to  the  advantage  of  the 
more  modern. 

According  to  the  legend,  the  Apostle 
Santiago,  after  the  crucifixion,  came  to 
Spain  to  preach  the  gospel  about  a.d.  40. 
When  he  had  reached  Zaragoza,  and 
was  asleep,  he  was  visited  by  a  celestial 
vision.  The  Virgin  appeared  standing 
on  a  jasper  pillar  and  surrounded  by 
angels.  She  spoke  to  him,  expressing 
a  wish  to  have  a  chapel  built  on  that 
very  spot  Santiago  hastened  to  com- 
ply with  this  desire,  and  erected  a 
small  and  modest  chapel,  which  the 
Mother  of  God  was  often  wont  to  visit 
to  attend  divine  service.  On  this  spot 
also  was  raised  the  present  cathedral, 
1686.  It  was  built  after  designs  by 
Herrera  el  Mozo,  and  partly  rebuilt, 
decorated,  and  defaced  by  Ventura 
Rodriguez.  It  is  a  very  large  edifice, 
500  ft.  long,  and  occupying  all  one 
side  of  the  spacious  Plaza,  plain  out- 
side and  unfinished.  The  interior  con- 
sists of  three  naves,  very  wide,  very 
lofty,  and  not  wanting  in  grandeur  and 
effect,  but  marred  by  the  abominations 
of  the  ornamental  style  introduced  in 
18th  century.  The  domes  with  rows  of 
green,  yellow,  and  white  glazed  tiles 
look  most  Oriental  and  effective  from  a 
distance,  though,  of  course,  out  of 
keeping  here.  Twelve  huge  and  clumsy 
piers  divide  the  naves. 

Santa  Capilla. — This  chapel  within 
a  chapel  is  of  elliptical  shape,  with  three 
ingresses,  and  in  the  shape  of  a  Corin- 
thian temple,  with  a  large  cupola 
painted  al  fresco  by  A.  Velazquez,  not 
the  one.  In  the  centre  of  its  high  re- 
tablo  is  the  image  of  the  Virgin  point- 
ing to  Santiago,  and  on  the  right  the 
images  of  the  Nine  Converts,  the  work 
of  one  Raminez.  Over  the  fine  jasper 
pillars  that  support  the  cupola  are 
placed  seventeen  banners  and  flags, 
mostly  captured  from  the  Moors.    The 


statues  around  the  altar  are  indifferent 
On  one  side  is  the  Holy  Image  with 
the  pillar.  A  heavy  manto  conceals 
the  image,  a  silver  reja  encloses  it. 
The  pavement  is  of  precious  marbles ; 
votive  offerings  are  hung  around,  and 
candles  are  always  burning  before  it 
The  pillar  (of  broccaieUo  marble)  is  in- 
visible ;  but  at  the  back  there  is  a  small 
hole  where  it  is  kissed  by  the  faithful. 
There  is  a  small  pantheon  underneath 
where  are  placed  the  heart  of  the  bold 
Don  Juan  de  Austria,  the  great  Zaragoza 
benefactor  Pignatelli,  etc.  The  domes 
of  the  church  are  by  the  Bayeus  and 
Goya,  but  the  great  gem  here  is  the 

Retablo  Mayor. — The  masterpiece  of 
Damian  Forment,  era  1509-15,  and 
which  cost  18,000  ducats.  It  is  mostly 
of  alabaster.  The  relievos  represent 
scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Virgin  and 
of  Christ.  The  composition  and  exe- 
cution are  very  fine. 

Stalls. — They  are  the  work  of  Este- 
ban  de  Obray,  1542-48,  aided  by  Juan 
Mareto  and  Nicolas  de  Lobato.  There 
are  three  rows  of  stalls,  numbering  alto- 
gether 115.  The  excellent  carving  re- 
presents battles,  tournaments,  pastoral 
scenes,  scenes  from  Scripture,  etc 

Observe  also  the  fine  reja  by  Celma, 
with  plateresque  details,  1574. 

The  chapels  are  beneath  mention. 
In  the  sacristy  of  that  of  San  Lorenzo 
there  is  a  good  Martyrdom  of  the 
Tutelar,  by  Ribera. 

In  the  sacristy  de  la  Sta.  Capilla  ob- 
serve what  now  remains  of  the  former 
T^esoro  de  la  Virgen,  and  which  was 
plundered  by  the  French  to  the  value 
of  £28,00Q.  Observe  the  large  pearls 
in  the  shape  of  hearts,  boats,  rabbits ; 
diamond  necklaces,  etc.  Visit  the 
Virgin's  wardrobe,  whose  mantes  exceed 
the  value  of  many  a  queen's  toilet ;  but 
the  most  rational  gem  here  is  a  fine  and 
authentic  Titian  in  the  sacristia,  an 
Ecce  Homo.      Under  it  is  a  bull  grant- 


ZARAGOZA. 


519 


ing  forty  days'  indulgence  to  those  who 
will  say  a  credo  before  it.  There  is  also 
a  good  small  medallion  painting. 

Minor  Churches. — Sta.  Engracia, 
extra  muros,  also  called  de  las  Santas 
Masas,  so  called  because  here  were  de- 
posited the  ashes  of  an  infinite  number 
of  martyrs,  among  them  those  of  Sta. 
Engracia,  San  Lamberto,  San  Lupercio, 
etc.,  who  were  martyrised  in  a.d.  300, 
at  the  time  of  the  tenth  persecution  of 
the  Church.  It  is  one  of  the  earliest 
churches  in  the  town,  but  was  mostly 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1808,  and 
in  1819  greatly  defaced  by  some  igno- 
rant hieronymites,  who  undertook  to 
repair  it ;  it  is  still  worth  visiting. 
Note  the  fine  early  sarcophagi  in  which 
the  ashes  are  placed.  Observe  also  the 
plateresque  facade  and  statues  flanking 
the  entrance,  all  by  the  Marlanes,  1505 
(Juan  and  Diego).  The  church  was 
built  by  the  Catholic  Kings,  and  com- 
pleted by  Charles  V. ;  the  semi-Moorish 
cloisters  were  by  Tudelilla. 

San  Pablo. — Dates  1259;  a  good 
facade.  Observe  the  high  retablo  by 
Forment  A  fine  tomb  of  Bishop  of 
Huesca ;  stalls  which  date  1500-20. 
San  Miguel.— Cxmous  bassd-relievi  of 
Passion,  San  Pedro,  and  San  Juan  ; 
early;  it  has  a  very  elegant  Moorish- 
like  tower.  Santiago. — On  the  site 
where  the  Apostle  lived.  The  retablo 
represents  the  Virgin's  visit  to  the 
Saint.  San  Felipe  y  Santiago.  —  An 
elegant  portal  with  Salominic  black 
marble  pillars  and  statues.  Santa  Cruz, 
Greek  cruciform ;  very  early,  enlarged 
in  1499,  modernised  in  1780. 

Iionja  (or  Exchange). — It  was  built 
in  1551,  and  is  a  curious  medley  of 
styles.  Its  distribution  is  Gothic,  its 
windows  circular,  but  mostly  belongs 
to  the  Gotho-plateresque.  Observe  the 
rich  projecting  soffits,  the  towers  tiled 
with  white  and  green  azulejos  ;  the 
circular  door  is  flanked  by  windows  of 


the  same  form.  Observe  the  four  light 
turrets  at  the  corners,  the  relievo 
figures  and  busts.  It  is  gloomy,  severe, 
and  dungeon-like  outside.  Interior. — 
Consists  of  a  square  hall  divided  into 
three  naves.  Round  the  cornice  runs 
an  inscription  with  date  of  completion, 
1551,  '  Reynando  Donya  Ioana  y  Don 
Carlos  su  hijo,'  etc.  Observe  the  four 
emblazoned  shields  with  the  lion  ram- 
pant of  Zaragoza,  and  griffins  and 
angels  as  supporters ;  and  over  the  doer 
and  walls  the  relievo  gilt  escutcheons 
of  Spain  with  lions.  Here,  and  close 
to  a  small  chapel,  are  kept  the  gigan- 
tones,  giant  pasteboard  figures  that 
represent  the  four  parts  of  the  world, 
and  which  men  carry  about  on  great 
public  festivities  ;  near  them  are  the 
minor  monsters  called  Los  Cabezuelos. 
On  the  whole,  the  Lonja  is  not  worth 
the  trouble  of  a  visit,  looking  for  ad- 
mittance, etc.,  and  the  porter's  fee. 

Archiepiscopal  Palace. — Uninterest- 
ing. Consists  of  long  empty  rooms 
on  the  river,  and  a  collection  of  dauby 
portraits  of  the  archbishops  of  Zara- 
goza. 

Aljaferia. — It  is  situated  outside  the 
town,  fifteen  minutes'  drive  from  the 
Coso.  It  was  the  palace  of  the  Moorish 
kings  or  sheiks,  and  became  afterwards 
the  residence  of  the  kings  of  Aragon. 
It  was  built  by  Aben-Aljafa,  whence 
its  name.  It  has  also  been  used  for  the 
palace  or  tribunal  of  the  Inquisicion 
when  the  autos-da-fe*  took  place  in  the 
Plaza  del  Mercado.  This  edifice,  now 
converted  into  barracks,  bears  traces  of 
different  styles  and  periods.  Observe 
remains  of  the  former  mosque  in  the 
first  patio  ;  the  arcades  in  the  second  ; 
the  ornamentation  of  the  Sola  de  Pa- 
belloncs  ;  the  gallery  and  ceiling  of  the 
Salon  de  Sta.  Isabel,  so  called  because 
it  is  said  that  the  holy  Queen  of  Hun- 
gary was  born  in  it,  1271.  A  Gothic 
inscription  bears  the  date  1492,  which 


520 


ZARAGOZA. 


is  that  of  the  capture  of  Granada.  The 
ceiling  was  gilt  with  the  first  gold 
brought  by  Columbus  from  America. 
The  staircase,  now  much  injured,  was 
once  a  gem.  Inquire  also  for  a  small 
chapel  called  de  San  Martin.  On  its 
northern  side  is  a  dark  cell  or  dungeon, 
called  la  Torreta.  Within  its  walls,  it 
is  asserted,  was  confined  the  unhappy 
lover  of  Leonora,  with  whom  are  fami- 
liar all  those  who  have  heard  Verdi's 
charming  'Trovatore'  (the  libretto  is 
by  Garcia  Gutierrez). 

The  historical  leaning  tower  of 
Zaragoza  stood  in  the  Plaza  San 
Felipe,  and  was  destroyed  in  1894  on 
account  of  its  unsafe  condition.  It 
^  was  built  in  1504,  an  octagonal  clock 
tower,  Moorish  in  style,  with  diaper- 
ing of  brickwork.  84  ft.  high,  it 
leaned  some  10  ft.  out  of  the  perpen- 
dicular, owing  to  its  faulty  founda- 
tions. 

Public  and 'Private  Edifices. — The 
Hospital  General  is  one  of  the  largest  in 
Spain  ;  the  new  University  has  a  noble 
quadrangle.  The  Casa  de  Misericordia 
is  a  sort  of  hospital  where  from  600  to 
700  poor  are  taken  in  and  employed  at 
different  trades. 

The  old  houses  belonging  to  the 
Aragonese  nobility  are  well  worth  visit- 
ing, and  constitute  excellent  examples 
of  the  Italian- Aragonese  style  of  pla- 
teresque,  differing  in  many  points  from 
its  counter-type  the  Seville  Moro-I  talian, 
or  strictly  Andalusian  style,  applied  to 
private  dwellings. 

Private  Dwellings. — Whilst  feudalism 
was  alive  the  Ricos-homes  and  heredi- 
tary nobles  lived  in  their  castles  on  the 
mountains,  and  the  principal  houses 
belonged  to  rich  citizens  and  plain  ca- 
balleros,  not  of  war  pursuits,  but  mer- 
chants and  magistrates  ;  the  two  classes 
of  nobility  were  almost  blended  in  the 
16th  century,  and  the  nobility,  with  the 
fall  of  feudalism,  lived  more  in  cities. 


Trade  was  circumscribed  about  the 
Square  Mercado,  and  the  quarter  and 
streets  adjoining  the  Calle  Mayor ;  most 
are  of  1500,  and  thereabouts,  with  por- 
tals resting  on  half  pilasters,  square 
patios  with  istriated  pillars,  with  an 
anillo  or  ring  about  the  middle,  plater- 
esque galleries,  and  artesonado  stair- 
cases. Casa  del  Comercio. — In  Calle  de 
Santiago.  It  was  before  Casa  de  Torrel- 
las,  now  belongs  to  Marquis  of  Ayerve, 
of  oblong  shape,  style  semi-Gothic  and 
plateresque.  Capitals  with  griffins  and 
sphinxes  crown  the  six  columns  of  the 
lower  storey  or  ground -floor.  The 
arches  of  the  elegant  gallery  spring 
from  chiselled  Gothic  pillars  of  no 
great  purity  of  style,  but  graceful ;  the 
gallery  hasurns,  cornucopias,  and  Graeco- 
Roman  ornaments.  Over  this  upper 
gallery  are  Gotho- Moorish  windows; 
the  staircase  is  also  plateresque.  Over 
one  of  the  doors  that  lead  into  the  gal- 
lery is  a  Gothic  one  with  a  scutcheon 
over — a  lion  and  three  turrets,  the  cant- 
ing arms  of  the  Torrellas,  and  their 
motto,  'Omnibus  didici  prodesse,  no- 
cere  nemini. '  Casa  Zaporta.  — Superior 
in  style  to  the  former,  and  plateresque, 
also  called  'dela  Infanta,1  because  in 
the  end  of  the  last  century  it  was  the 
residence  of  'La  Vallabriga,'  married 
to  the  Infante  Don  Luis,  who  was 
exiled  to  Zaragoza  for  his  marriage. 
Its  patio  is  of  eight  istriated  columns, 
formed  in  its  higher  part  of  groups  of 
satyrs  and  nymphs  whose  heads  support 
the  capital.  Over  this  capital  are  two 
mascarons  of  men,  women,  and  animals. 
The  frieze  is  delicately  worked  out  with 
medallions,  monsters,  ribbons. 

From  a  dentellated  cornice  springs 
the  upper  gallery,  presenting  six  arches 
on  each  side,  and  a  profusion  of  relievos 
wonderfully  done.  The  pedestals  of 
its  light  pillars  have  a  mascaron  sculp- 
ture. The  antepecho,  or  parapet,  has 
medallions  with  busts,  some   in   the 


ZARAGOZA. 


521 


dress  of  the  16th  century,  and  all  sword 
in  hand.  The  archivolt  of  the  circular 
arches  is  of  a  most  graceful  curve,  is 
artesonadoed,  and  its  jambs,  cornice, 
etc.,  profusely  sculptured.  The  stair- 
case balustrades  reproduce  the  same 
busts  as  on  the  gallery.  Behind  the 
Seminario,  Plazuela  de  San  Carlos, 
there  are  also  two  or  three  houses  with 
splendidly  decorated  windows.  The 
Museo  is  full  of  rubbish.  At  the  Casino 
is  a  portrait  of  Goya's. 

Libraries,  etc. — Archivo  de  la  Dipu- 
tacion  Provincial  Here  subsists  what 
little  could  be  saved  from  fire  in  the 
celebrated  siege.  The  Actos  de  las 
Cortes  de  Aragon  are  numerous.  The 
University  possesses  a  library  of  30,000 
volumes,  mostly  modern. 

Promenades, — The  Coso  is  the  prin- 
cipal street,  and  here  tournaments  used 
to  take  place. 

The  Paseo  de  Sta.  Engracia  is  the 
fashionable  walk.  It  begins  at  the 
Coso  and  finishes  at  the  Puerta  of  Sta. 
Engracia.  There  is  in  it  a  poor  statue 
of  Pignatelli,  a  benefactor  of  the  town, 
whose  name  is  associated  with  the 
Canal  Imperial  and  many  other  public 
works.  Take  a  carriage  and  follow 
this  itinerary,  which  will  give  you  a 
good  idea  of  the  town  and  environs  • — 
To  Torero,  from  whence  the  French 
entered  the  town,  which  in  1808  was 
strongly  held  by  the  Spaniards  at  first, 
but  abandoned  through  the  ignorance 
of  their  leaders  ;  follow  the  Canal 
Imperial,  go  on  to  Buena  Vista,  from 
which  another  general  view  of  the  city 
can  be  obtained,  Monte  Oscuro  on  the 
right,  and  the  range  of  San  Gregorio  on 
the  left,  facing  the  town.  Then  follow 
the  canal  again  through  olive-grounds, 
and  observe  the  curious  effect  produced 
by  the  canal  crossing  over  the  H  verba. 
Go  to  Casa  Blanca,  where  Marshal 
Lannes  signed  the  stipulations  for  the 
surrendering  of  the  town  ;  and  come 


back  by  the  cavalry  barracks,  Aljaferia, 
Plaza  de  Toros. 

Theatres. — El  Principal  and  Varie- 
dades.  The  first,  which  is  the  best,  is 
generally  open  from  end  of  September 
to  31st  of  May.  Spanish  plays  and 
dancing;  84r.  a  palco  platea,  and  a 
stall,  called  butaca  or  sillon,  5r.  to  6r. 

The  great  festivity  is  on  October  12, 
the  anniversary  of  the  visit  of  the 
Virgin  to  St.  James.  On  such  occa- 
sions more  than  40,000  pilgrims  have 
been  known  to  flock  to  Zaragoza  and 
the  holy  shrine,  which  is  then  most 
gorgeously  decorated  and  lighted  up. 

At  this  fiesta  de  la  Virgen  del  Pilar \ 
too,  take  place  the  best  bull-fights. 
(Plaza  de  Toros  close  by  the  Portillo 
gate,  on  the  way  to  the  Aljaferia.) 

DIRECTORY. 

Banker. — Succursale  of  the  Bank  of 
Spain,  Coso  67.  Money-changer. — 
Ferrer,  Alfonso  Primero,  3. 

Baths. — A.  Clavez,  in  the  Calle  Val- 
encia, very  good.  Ballesteros  and  Mar- 
raco,  on  the  Paseo,  only  open  in  summer. 

Doctor.  —  D.  Manuel  Daina,  Pilar 
19 ;  speaks  French. 

Hairdressers. — Several,  good,  in  the 
Coso. 

Photographer. — Coyne,  5  Plaza  de  la 
Constitucion ;  keeps  very  good  views 
of  Zaragoza. 

SUversmitJis. — Ask  for  the  peasants' 
earrings  of  antique  style :  a  good  set, 
with  stones,  costs  about  10  dollars. 
Notice  also  the  numberless  images  of 
the  Virgen  del  Pilar,  crosses,  medals, 
rings,  worn  as  charms. 

N.B. — Taste  the  Carinena  wines. 

Routes  from  Frenoh  Pyrenees  to 
Zaragoza  :— 

Boute  1.  A,  St.  Jean  Pied  de  Port  to 
Pamplona. — 71  kil.  between  St.  Jean 
and  Pamplona,  ride. 

B.  St.  Jean  Pied  de  Port  to  Valcarlos. 


522 


ZARAGOZA. 


The  river  Valcarlos,  a  tributary  of 
the  Nive,  divides  the  two  countries. 
(Inns  at  St.  Jean,  Hotel  Apcsteguy ; 
H.  de  France ;  at  Valcarlos,  Fonda  Bar- 
celona). There  is  a  good  carriage  road — 
liable,  however,  to  be  blocked  by  snow 
in  winter — from  St.  Jean  Pied  de  Port 
to  Roncesvalles,  where  it  joins  the 
former  Spanish  road  to  Pamplona. 
Arneguy  is  the  last  French  village; 
Valcarlos  the  first  Spanish  one.  The 
road  leads  through  woods  of  chestnut, 
beech,  and  pine.  About  a  mile  from 
Roncesvalles  stands  the  ruined  chapel 
of  Ibaneta,  where  the  road  (7  also  joins. 


Itinerary. 

Leagues. 

St.  Jean  P.  de  Port, 

to  Val- 

carlos 

• 

•     *i 

Roncesvalles 

• 

.     4 

Burguete 

• 

X 

Zavaldica 

• 

•      4 

Pamplona*  . 

• 

•      »i 

Ml 

There  is  a  eoun-ier  carriage  from  St. 
Jean  P.  de  Port  every  morning  to  Val- 
carlos ;  thence  a  daily  coach  (sledge 
in  winter)  to  Burguete  (Convent 
posada). 

The  convent  of  Roncesvalles  (Roncida, 
or  Roscida  Vallis,  Basque,  Orreaga,  the 
place  of  junipers)  has  a  small  inn  in  the 
last  of  the  buildings  looking  towards 
Burguete.  The  convent  itself  is  a  con- 
geries of  remains  from  the  10th  to  the 
17th  century,  well  worth  the  study  of 
the  archaeologist.  The  building,  used 
as  a  burial  place  for  the  canons,  with 
its  pit  for  the  common  dead,  is  men- 
tioned as  existing  early  in  the  12th 
century.  Here,  round  the  Villa  de 
Roncesvalles,  and  on  the  slopes  of  the 
Altobiscar,  Charlemagne's  rear-guard 
was  plundered  by  the  Basques  in  778. 
The  Black  Prince  passed  Roncesvalles  on 
his  way  to  Navarette,  in  February  1367. 

*  For  Pamplona,  see  Madridfrom  Bayonne. 


These  hills  have  been  the  scene  of  many 
a  desperate  conflict,  especially  in  the 
16th  century,  and  during  the  Penin- 
sular War.  The  Chanson  de  Roland 
(11th  century)  on  the  fight  at  Ronces- 
vaux,  is  the  finest,  as  well  as  one  of  the 
earliest,  of  the  epics  of  Northern  France. 
The  much-admired  Basque  AUobiskarco 
Cantua  is  really  a  translation  into 
Basque  from  the  French  of  M.  Garay 
de  Monglave,  written  in  1833.  The 
reader  may  recollect  the  fine — 

'They  are  coming,  they  are  near,'  said  a 
Basque  to  his  son.  '  Child,  count  them  out,  and 
miss  none,'  etc.  etc. 

C.  By  the  Col  de  Bentarte  and  the 
Pignon  Blanc  This  is  the  old  Roman, 
and  subsequent  pilgrim  road  over  the 
hills.  It  was  by  this,  probably,  that 
Charlemagne's  army  passed,  and  other 
armies,  down  to  the  journey  of  Hill's 
corps  in  the  Peninsular  War.  It  is 
practicable  now  only  on  horseback  or 
on  foot,  but  has  interest  for  the  archae- 
ologist 

D.  By  Ste.  Etienne  de  Baigorry. 
Rail  from  Bayonne  to  Itratzou  and 
Osses,  and  being  slowly  prolonged  to 
St.  Jean  and  Baigorry.  From  Baigorry 
to  Les  Aldudes,  passing  the  copper 
mines  of  Banca,  a  courrier  runs  daily 
(Hotel  d'Espagne  at  Les  Aldudes, 
good) ;  from  thence  there  is  a  difficult 
mule  path  to  Roncesvalles  or  Burguete. 

Route  2. — A.  Tardets  to  Pamplona. — 
1.  By  Ochagavia  and  Lumbier,  118  kiL 
To  Larrau,  the  last  French  village,  in 
a  carnage  (9  kil.),  then  riding  by  Ocha- 
gavia (1300  inhabitants),  on  the  Zatoya 
and  Anduna.  Lodge  at  the  old  Her- 
mitage de  Nuestra  Senora.  Some 
sulphureous  waters  in  the  vicinity,  an 
old  mansion-house,  and  two  mediaeval 
castles;  then  crossing  the  Salazar  to 
Nevascues,  from  this  to  Lumbier,  cross- 
ing again  the  Salazar ;  the  scenery  is 
very  fine,  and  the  latter  town  (popu- 


ZARAGOZA 


523 


lation  1600  inhabitants)  picturesquely 
situated.  The  roads  are  bad,  but  prac- 
ticable in  summer  and  autumn ;  then 
following  the  old  road  from  Zaragoza  to 
Pamplona,  leaving  the  fine  ninety- 
seven  arched  aqueduct  on  the  right,  the 
latter  town  is  reached. 

B.  2.  By  Roncal  and  Tiermas,  116 
kiL — Roncal,  444  inhabitants,  on  the 
Ezca.  The  road  is  not  interesting  or 
pleasant.  Diligences  from  Tiermas  to 
Pamplona  every  other  day,  and  one  by 
Sangliesa. 

3.  Bagn&res  de  Luchon  to  Zaragoza, 
by  Venasque  and  Barbastro,  riding  or 
walking  in  three  days  to  Barbastro. 
Magnificent  scenery  and  tolerable  ac- 
commodation. Ladies  may  be  carried 
in  portable  chairs.  First  day — Luchon 
to  Venasque,  either  by  Port  de  Venasque 
or  Port  de  la  Gleyre ;  the  latter  is  a 
better  road,  the  former  sometimes 
perilous.  This  beautiful  valley  is  7 
leagues  long  by  18  in  circumference. 
Venasque. — Inns:  Brousseau,  or  at 
Pedro  Farras  ;  fares,  8  to  lOfr.  a-day  ; ' 
population,  1500.  A  dirty  town  ;  the 
old  Vercelia.  On  the  Esera,  3829  feet 
above  the  sea :  two  churches,  one  of  a 
Romanesque  style ;  a  picturesque  castle 
and  curious  old  houses  ;  the  Maladetta 
in  the  distance,  grand ;  the  valley  of 
Venasque,  magnificent  Second  day — 
Sleep  at  Santa  Liestra,  not  an  easy  road 
for  travelling,  but  picturesque.  Third 
day — To  Barbastro  ;  Barbastro  to  Zara- 
goza, 76  kil.  ;  or  by  rail. 

4.  Bagneres  de  Luchon  to  -Zaragoza 
byJacd. — By  Lourdes,  Canfranc,  Urdes ; 
or  Eaux  Chaudes  and  the  Vallee  d'Aspe. 

Eaux  Chaudes  to  Zaragoza. — First 
to  Gabas,  then  by  Col.  des  Moines,  or 
Col  de  Sompert  (the  first  more  difficult, 
but  shorter),  to  Canfranc,  and  Canfranc 
to  Jaca,  Jaca  to  Zaragoza. 

Bagneres  de  Bigorre  by  Lourdes,  Es- 
telle,  Urdos,  Canfranc,  and,  Jaca. 

Attend  to  provender,   take  a  local 


guide,  and  sleep  in  private  houses  in 
preference  to  posadas.  Pass  the  beau- 
tiful valley  of  Jena,  4  leagues  long. 
N.  to  S.,  3  wide ;  11  leagues  circum- 
ference. Watered  by  the  Gallego 
Salient;  the  chief  hamlet,  Panticosa, 
here  also. 

Panticosa. — A  decent  French  inn, 
and  the  Etablissement.  The  bathing 
accommodation  far  from  good.  Dif- 
ferent springs  ;  the  principal,  del  Es- 
tomago,  Herpes,  Higado ;  season  from 
June  to  September.  Route  to  Eaux 
Bonnes,  12  hrs.  stout  walking ;  can  be 
ridden.  To  Cauterets  by  Col  de  Mar- 
cadu,  desolate  and  difficult,  8  hrs. 
ride.  Pass  several  lakes,  pass  the  crest 
of  the  Col.  in  2  J  hrs.,  whence  in  4  hr. 
to  Cauterets  (H6tel  de  France),  when, 
by  diligence  or  caleches  to  Tarbes, 
whence  by  rail  to  Pau  and  Bayonne. 
Scenery  magnificent,  especially  the 
Lac  de  Gaube  and  Pont  d'Espagne. 
Here  the  Vignemale  is  seen  well ;  the 
Petit  Pic  is  10,000  ft.  above  the  sea, 
and  has  been  often  ascended ;  the  Lac  de 
Gaube  is  one  of  the  most  elevated  in 
the  Pyrenees.  Though  there  are  nasty 
portions  to  descend  with  horses,  we 
have  found  them,  from  personal  expe- 
rience, level  ground  compared  to  many 
in  South  Andalusia  and  N.  W.  of  Spain. 
From  Panticosa  in  2  hrs.  ;  steep  side 
to  Salient  (Spanish  custom-house), 
whence  into  France  by  "W.  Puerto  de 
Formigal,  which  is  the  easiest,  or  by 
Cuello  de  Sova  and  La  Torqueta,  by 
the  Valley  d'Ossau,  much  frequented 
and  highly  picturesque. 

N.B. — See  for  the  mineral  springs, 
General  Information :  Mineral  Waters, 
etc. 

Cauterets  to  Panticosa. — 9  hrs.  hard 
walking.  First,  from  Cauterets  to  Pont 
d'Espagne ;  then  follow  the  Gave  dc 
Marcadu,  leave  the  Ceratella  lake  on 
left,  cross  the  Port  de  Marcadu  (2  hrs. 
now  to  Panticosa).     Panticosa  to  Jaca, 


524 


ZARAGOZA. 


36  kil.,  ride  or  walk.  One  can  also  go 
from  Cauterets  to  Panticosa  by  the 
Vignemale,  road  worse.  There  is  a 
diligence  service  between  Panticosa  and 
Zaragoza — in  22  hours. 

Oloron  to  Jaca  by  Ganfranc — Oloron 
to  Urdos,  40  kil.  ;  Urdos  to  Croix  de 
Somport ;  the  cross  marks  the  limits  of 
the  two  countries.  The  Aragon,  near  to 
Venta  San  Antonio,  at  the  last  bridge 
before  Canfranc,  pay  lr.  30m.  per  horse 
or  mule. 

Canfrwnc,  on  right  bank  of  the 
Aragon,  740  inhabitants ;  one  only 
street ;  a  picturesque  castle,  time  of 
Philip  II. ;  thence  by  Pefia  Colorada, 
cross  several  defiles,  and  to  Jaca,  whence 
Zaragoza. 

Oavarnie  to  Jaca. — 44  hrs.  walk 
from  Gavarnie  and  its  Cirque,  and  by 
the  Ara,  which  is  crossed  to  Boucharo, 
where  sleep ;  and  from  it  to  Panticosa, 
7  hrs.,  by  the  mountain  of  Tenera, 
from  Cirque  de  Gavarnie  by  Valley  de 
Gedre  to  Bareges,  St.  Sauveur,  Cau- 
terets by  Pierrefitte. 

Itinerary. 
Pau  to  Panticosa 
From  Tarbes  to  Panticosa 
Bareges 

Bagneres  de  Bigorre   . 
,,       de  Luchon    . 
From  Oloron,  8  leagues,  the  best  road,  only  4 
are  ridden,  and  the  rest  in  a  carriage. 

Zaragoza  to  Bagneres  de  Bigorre. — 
By  rail  to  Selgua  (line,  Zaragoza  to 
Barcelona);  from  thence  branch  line 
to  Barbastro. 

Barbastro. — On  the  Veso,  population 
6200,  a  bishop's  see,  Posada  Bazas, 
situated  on  uneven  ground  in  a  hollow, 
and  on  the  slopes  of  a  hill  whose  sum- 
mit is  crowned  by  the  oldest  portion 
of  the  city  ;  very  narrow,  steep  streets, 
that  in  winter  become  torrents  and 
cascades ;  a  few  houses  have  soffits,  etc., 
of  16th  century  style,  but  most  are 
brick  and  mortar  works,  and  indifferent. 
In  the  Calle  del  Coso  is  a  specimen 


Leagues. 
8 

4 
4 
4 
4 


of  house  architecture  of  16th  century. 
At  one  extremity  of  it  a  specimeD 
of  the  plateresque  with  Revival  pillars, 
sculptured  soffits  (alero),  and  a  gallery 
with  open -worked  pendants,  and  in 
Calle  del  Riancho  is  a  good  example  of 
the  house  architecture  of  end  of  15th 
century.  The  Vero,  a  humble  rivulet, 
goes  through  the  city.  The  cathedral 
really  dates  of  end  of  15th  century,  for 
the  former  portion,  now  called  la  Maes- 
tria,  was  much  reduced  when  the  pre- 
sent edifice  was  erected  ;  we  may  place 
the  dates  of  foundation  between  1500 
and  1533.  Pope  Nicolas  V.  erected 
this  See  into  a  Colegiata  in  1448.  The 
principal  entrance  (if  it  may  so  be  called) 
is  paltry  beyond  measure,  and  has  to  be 
hunted  for.  The  dimensions  are  not 
great — 140  ft.  in  length,  three  naves 
alike  in  height,  the  groining  springing 
from  the  capitals  of  the  columns,  and 
covered  with  ogee  lierne  ribs.  The 
pillars  are  light  and  graceful,  and  look 
like  a  bunch  of  pillarets  tied  up  by  a 
capital  made  of  foliage,  angels,  and 
flowers.  At  the  extremity  of  the  three 
naves,  the  arches  form  a  star,  in  centre 
of  which  is  the  high  chapel,  and  in  the 
two  other  lateral  ones  there  are  chapels 
with  plateresque  altars  divided  into 
numerous  compositions.  The  high  altar 
is  of  1560-1602,  and  was  erroneously 
attributed  by  some  to  Damian  Foment, 
who  died  end  of  15th  century.  It  is 
indifferent  This  church  has  neither 
cupola  nor  transept.  The  light  comes 
from  the  ogival  windows  placed  over 
the  chapels  ;  under  them  runs  a  frieze 
all  round  the  church  with  large  gilt 
letters  of  16th  and  17th  centuries,  re- 
cording its  consecration  in  1531.  This 
edifice  is  associated  with  no  great  tradi- 
tions of  art  or  history ;  there  are  no 
sepulchres.  The  choir  in  central  nave ; 
stalls  of  plateresque  style,  1584-1594 
with  goodly  executed  columns  istriated, 
mascarons,  and  minor  sculptures.  There 


ZARAGOZA. 


525 


are  ten  or  more  chapels,  mostly  churri- 
gueresque  and  indifferent.      There  is 
also  a  road  here  to  Hnesca  and  to  Mon* 
zon  ;  attend  to  the  provender,  and  on 
to  Naval,  where  is  a  great  trade  in  salt. 
Ainsa. — Once  the  capital  of  Sobrarve, 
now  a  poor  (300  inhabitants)  hamlet 
The  two  churches,  ancient  mosques. 
On  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  the  old  palace 
of  the  kings  of  Sobrarve,  2  J  kil.  off,  is 
the  famous  Cruz  de  Sobrarve,  placed  in 
remembrance  of  the  one  which  appeared 
to  King  Garcia  Ximenes,  about  to  en- 
counter the  infidel ;    every  year,  Sep- 
tember 14,  a  great  festival  takes  place 
around  it.      By  Puertolas,   here  two 
roads  to  Bagneres — 1st  By  Col  de  Sesa 
and  Bielsa ;  2d.  La  Cinca ;  go  on  direct 
to  Gistain,  300  inhabitants  ;  follow  up 
the  Cingueta,  and  to  Col  de  la  Pey,  at 
the  foot  of  Pic  du  Midi,  and  by  the  ad- 
mirable valley  de  Lourou,  whence  to 
Bagneres. 

Zaragoza  to  Jaca. — By  rail,  vid  Tar- 
dienta  (on  the  L^rida  line)  and  Huesca. 
One  train  daily  in  7  hours.  Or  by  road, 
one  day's  hard  riding,  or  two  walking 
days,  to  Jaca,  by  bad  roads. 


Itinerary. 
Zaragoza.  to  Zuera 
Gunrea 
Ayerve 


Bernues 
Jaca   . 


Leagues. 
.     4 

•  3 

•  5 

12 

•  5 

-   7* 
i9i 


jaca. — Population,  3200  inhabitants. 
The  scenery  around  is  picturesque. 
Inn :  Posada  del  Canfranc ;  close  by  the 
river  Gas  joins  the  Aragon.  A  bishop's 
see.  The  cathedral  was  built  in  814 
by  King  Ramiro.  It  is  massive  and 
sombre,  divided  into  three  naves. 
There  are  some  curious  and  very  early 
details.  The  present  groining  was  put 
up  in  the  16th  century.  Capilla  de 
San  Miguel, — A  fine  plateresque  door. 


Capilla  de  la  Trinidad. — A  fine  marble 
retablo.  Capilla  de  Su  Magestad. — A 
grand  tomb  of  a  bishop.  The  city  was 
taken  by  M.  P.  Cato,  A.0. 195.  Portions 
of  the  Roman  wall  then  erected  remain. 
In  795  the  battle  of  Las  Tiendas  took 
place  here,  when  Don  Asnar  defeated 
90,000  Moors,  the  women  fighting  like 
men.  On  the  first  Friday  of  May,  on 
the  site  of  the  battle,  the  Jaca  women 
go  through  a  sham  fight  A  church 
was  raised  here  also.  In  Jaca  was  held 
the  first  parliament  on  record,  and  its 
Fuero  or  municipal  charter  is  among 
the  earliest  in  Spain.  Excursions  can 
be  made  to  the  mines  and  pine -forests 
of  Orvel,  and  the  picturesque  and  legen- 
dary Benedictine  Convent  of  San  Juan 
de  la  Peiia,  also  to  Eaux  Chaudes  by 
Canfranc,  the  latter  34  hrs.  ride. 

French  Pyrenees  into  Spain. — From 
Pau  to  Bayonne,  by  rail ;  distance,  106 
kil.;  time,  3  his.;  fares,  1st  el.,  llf. 
20c;  2d  cl.,  8f.  40c;  3d  cl.,  6f.  15c; 
and  from  Pau  to  Jaca  ;  walking  or  riding 
(by  Urdos),  and  from  Jaca,  either  to 
Sanguessa,  and  then  rail  to  Pamplona 
or  Zaragoza,  or  direct  to  Huesca,  whence 
to  Zaragoza  line. 

From  Zaragoza  to  Cauterets,  Zara- 
goza to  Huesca. — By  rail,  Zaragoza  to 
Tardienta,  1 J  hr.  At  Tardienta,  branch 
line  to  Huesca ;  distance,  21  kil. ; 
time,  40  to  60  m.  ;  total,  2i  hrs. 

Huesca, — Osca  Ilargetes,  named  by 
the  Romans  Victrix,  coined  the  much- 
prized  money  called  Oscense  which  was 
preciously  carried  to  Home.  Huesca 
was  the  city  of  predilection  of  the  Ara- 
gonese  kings  of  the  first  dynasty,  and 
the  court  of  Ramiro  II.  The  cathedral 
is  in  a  spacious  quadrilong  square. 
About  1327,  it  is  supposed,  the  Bis- 
cayan  Juan  of  Olotzaga  designed  the 
plan  of  it,  and  the  building  was  finished 
in  1515.  The  portal  mayor  or  W. 
doorway  is  by  him,  and  its  seven  ogivaJ 


526 


ZARAGOZA. 


arches  are  supposed  to  have  been  placed 
to  represent  the  seven  heavens.  It  is 
ornamented  with  biena-venturados  ac- 
cording to  their  hierarchy,  and  the  pre- 
cedence supposed  to  rule  in  the  em- 
pyrean— thus,  in  the  inner  arch  are 
placed  eight  prophets ;  in  the  third, 
ten  angels ;  in  the  fifth,  fourteen  vir- 
gins ;  and  in  the  seventh,  sixteen  mar- 
tyrs, all  canopied.  The  other  arches 
are  decorated  with  flowers  and  scroll- 
work. Over  the  door  the  tympanum 
has  the  Virgin  and  Child  adored  by 
the  three  Kings  of  the  East,  and  Jesus 
appearing  to  the  Magdalen ;  also  es- 
cutcheons of  city  and  benefactors.  On 
each  side  of  the  "W.  door  are  seven  large 
statues  representing  Apostles,  etc. ,  and 
the  martyrs  of  Huesca,  called  Lorenzo 
and  Vicente.  The  execution  indifferent 
The  ogive  was  awkwardly  interrupted 
by  a  salient  portico,  and  over  it  is  the 
upper  portion  of  the  front  composed  of 
four  turrets  at  the  angles,  and  a  central 
rose- window.  This  portion  dates  of  be- 
ginning of  16th  century,  it  is  supposed. 
On  the  right  is  the  belfry,  most  indiffer- 
ent. There  are  two  other  early  door- 
ways worthy  of  examination.  Interior. 
— Three  naves,  cruciform.  The  central 
roof  has  Revival  florones,  for  which  1800 
gold  florins  were  given  in  1515  by  Bishop 
Juan  de  Aragon  y  Navarra.  The  tran- 
sept has  painted  glass  at  the  extremities, 
but  in  the  rest  of  the  church  there  is 
none.  The  principal  retablo  in  high 
altar  is  a  masterpiece  of  Forment  on 
alabaster  1520-33,  for  10,000  sueldos. 
The  first  pedestal  is  divided  into  two 
orders.  The  first  order  is  composed  of 
seven  relievos  of  Passion  of  Christ,  etc. 
The  work  is  fine ;  not  pure  Gothic,  rather 
plateresque.  Choir  in  centre  ;  the  tra- 
scoro  formed  as  an  altar  crowned  by 
Faith  ;  crucifix  in  centre,  and  on  sides 
S.  Lorenzo  and  S.  Vicente,  all  Graeco- 
Roman  style.  The  external  side  of 
choir  is  of  1402,  the  former  silleria  was 


replaced  by  the  present  one,  which  is  the 
work  of  native  inferior  artists,  1587* 
1594,  style  of  Revival,  mezzo-relievos 
in  upper  row  ;  the  arms  and  backs  are 
much  worked.  The  chapels  are  indiffer- 
ent In  one  is  the  Cristo  de  los  Milag- 
ros,  whose  sweat  fell  on  the  man  who 
bore  him  in  a  procession  (1497),  which 
took  place  with  an  object  to  propitiate 
Divine  Providence.  In  the  archives  of 
the  chapter  are  several  curious  books, 
the  original  actas  of  the  Councils  of 
Jaca  (1063),  and  well-illuminated  bibles 
and  breviaries.  The  cloisters  are  an- 
terior to  the  present  cathedraL  The  door 
from  latter  to  former  is  Byzantine, 
with  figures  of  saints.  The  cloisters 
still  retain  specimens  of  their  primitive 
Byzantine  style.  Bishop  Fenollet  in 
1453  erected  a  whole  wing,  which  was 
Gothic  ;  all  the  rest  is  ruin  and  neglect 
The  sepulchres  are  indifferent,  and 
mostly  without  inscriptions.  On  that  of 
a  knight  called  Ordas  is  his  escutcheon 
with  a  bell,  in  memory  of  his  head 
being  cut  by  the  enemy  and  placed  to 
sound  a  bell.  Some  are  with  inscrip- 
tions of  12th  to  14th  century,  but  those 
are  few  and  of  no  importance.  One  of 
the  Revival  style  was  erected  by  For- 
ment to  his  pupil  Muiioz.  The  bishop's 
palace  is  indifferent.  The  Town-Hall 
has  a  plateresque  hall. 

Parish  Church  of  San  Pedro. — 12th 
century  ;  the  asylum  and  burial  of  the 
Rey  Monge,  much  spoiled  by  war  and 
the  Moors,  but  Byzantine  formerly. 
The  retablo  of  1241  was  magnificent, 
but  was  replaced  by  the  present  one  of 
1603.  The  choir  dates  of  the  begin 
ning  of  16th  century,  Gothic,  plain, 
and  elegant  enough.  In  a  chapel  here 
are  the  remains  of  the  children  Justo  y 
Pastor,  martyrised  at  Alcala  de  Henares 
by  Dacian's  orders,  whose  bodies  were 
found  in  the  cave  of  a  hermit  in  the  9th 
century.  They  were  objects  of much  piour 
covetousness  at  Alcala  and  other  cities. 


ZARAGOZA. 


527 


Opposite  are  the  Casas  Consistoriales 
in  the  style  of  16th  century,  and  on 
one  side  the  Episcopal  Palace.  Here 
was  formerly  one  of  the  finest  mosques, 
which  was  purified  and  consecrated  in 
1096,  and  pulled  down  in  14th  century. 
Huesca  is  the  capital  of  a  province  of 
the  same  name ;  population,  12,000. 
University,  Plaza  de  Toros,  and  a  semi- 
nary. An  ancient  see,  situated  in  a 
rich  and  well-cultivated  plain,  it  con- 
tains several  old  and  well-preserved 
edifices,  but  is  now  a  decayed,  backward 
and  dull  town.  It  was  an  important 
city,  according  to  Plutarch,  under  the 
Romans.  San  Lorenzo  is  said  by  some 
to  have  been  born  here.  The  chief 
street  is  El  Coso.  The  town  is  cheap 
and  well  supplied.  The  Pantano,  near 
Asquis,  4  leagues  N.  of  Huesca,  is  a 
fine  hydraulic  work,  by  Artigas. 

Huesca  to  Panticosa,  33  kil.  Cau- 
terets  nine  hours'  walking  either  by 
the  Vignemale  or  the  Marcadan. 

Luchon  to  Zaragoza.  —  "Walking  or 
riding  in  3  days,  thus  divided;  the 
distance  is  given  in  hours  ;  a  guide  ne- 
cessary:— 

Itinerary;  first  day. 

h.  in. 
Luchon  to  Cirque  de  la  Glcre  2      o 

Port  de  la  Glere  (Frontier)  .  .  .  1  30 
Hospice  de  Venasque  (breakfast)  ,  .10 
Town  of  Ve'nasque  (sleep)     .  2    30 


SECOND  DAY. 

Venasque  to  Eriste'         .        •        .        .    o    30 
Chapelle  to  Goient  .        .        .    o    15 

Sahun o    ij 

N.B. — Follow  now  the  upper  route, 

as  the  lower,  though  shorter,  is 

steeper  and  dangerous  for  horses. 

Chia  (a  nasty  bit  to  descend)         .        .20 

Seira  (very  bad  track)    .        .        .        .20 

Campo    (breakfast),    most   picturesque 

gorges 2    30 

Murillo 10 

San  Quilez  (where  sleep)  .        .    2    30 


11 


THIRD  DAY. 

San  Quilez  to  Besians  (good  road) 
Ferrarura   .... 
Venta  de  Santa  Lucia 
Venta  de  Graus  (breakfast) 
Puebla  de  Castro 
Capilla  de  San  Roque        • 
Barca  de  Pena  la  Cambra . 
Eua    .  ... 

Barbastro  •        .        . 


o    45 


o 

1 
1 
2 
o 

z 
I 

2 


30 

o 
o 
o 

15 

o 
o 

30 


10 


A  Tery  magnificent  excursion  for  good 
walkers,  or  those  who  can  do  a  little 
roughing.  There  is  a  daily  diligence 
service  between  Graus  and  Barbastro, 
which  can  be  utilised  if  necessary.  At 
Barbastro  (see  p.  524)  take  branch  rail- 
way to  Selgua — one  train  only  in  the 
day,  in  about  1  hr. — where  join  the 
Zaragoza  and  Barcelona  line. 

Pau  to  Zaragoza.   ( Very  interesting.) 

By  rail,  from  Pau  to  Tarbes,  39  kil. 

24  j  miles.      From  Tarbes,   riding  or 

walking,  5  days,  but  can  be  done  in  4 

days. 

Itinerary:  first  day. 

k.  m. 

Tarbes  to  Juillan,  6  kil          .        .        .0  40 

Ossun,  6  kil.  ...                        .    o  40 

Pontarcq,  10  kil i  c 

Nay  (we  have  walked  from  Nay  to  Bag. 

de  Bigores,  a  charming  promenade ; 

breakfast  here),  10  kil.                .        .     1  20 

Rebenac,  12  kil 1  20 

Louvie,  10  kil 10 


second  day. 

Louvie  to  Chapelle  de  Bielle 
Col  de  Mariblanca  (mule-track) 

Escott,  9  kil 

Bedous  (breakfast)  19  kil. 
Etsaut 


x 
3 


o 
o 

z      o 
X       o 

I    30 


Urdos  (where  sleep) ;  it  is  10  kil.  from 
the  Port o    45 


8    is 


THIRD  DAY. 


Urdos  to  Lazaret o  25 

Forges  of  Peyraneire  (the  Black  or 

Rock  Stone) x  20 

Pailette  (excellent  road)         .        .        .  o  ij 

French  frontier  (119  kil.  from  Pau)        .  o  15 

Spanish  Douane x  o 

Canfranc  (breakfast)      .        .        .       .  a  o 


528 


ZARAGOZA. 


Vfllanua 

Castello  (mule-track)      . 
Jaca  (small  vehicles  to  Zaragoza,  but 
changing  somewhat  the  route ;  sleep) 


FOURTH  DAY. 

Jaca  to  summit  of  hill 
To  site  opposite  Bernues   . 
Venta  de  Auzanego  (breakfast) 
Venta  de  la  Pena  (most  picturesque) 

Murillo 

Bridge  of  Murillo       .... 
Eres    (sleep  ;     opposite  to    Ayerbe, 
whence  diL  to  Zaragoza) 


FIFTH  DAY. 

Eres  to  Gurrea  del  Gallego 

Site  where  the  roads  of  Huesca  and 

Jaca  branch 

La   Barca   (where   the    Gallego   is 

crossed  on  a  ferry)  . 
Zuera    (good   carriageable    road   to 

Zaragoza;  vehicles)* 


o    50 
x    30 


9 

0 

z 

20 

z 

30 

X 

45 

X 

30 

X 

0 

• 

XS 

z 

30 

8 

50 

4  o 

2  30 

o  xs 

o  *5 


*  A  station  of  the  railway  from  Barceloaa  to 


Villanueva 
Zaragoza 


reduced  by  rail,  to 
4omin. 


} 


3« 
SO 


10   20 


Books  of  Reference.  —  x.  *  Tratado  de  la 
Santa  Iglesia  Metrop.  del  Salvador  de  Za- 
ragoza' (the  Seo  Cathedral),  by  D.  d'Espes 
(MS.) 

2.  *  Libro  de  Memorias  de  las  Cosas  que  en 
la  Iglesia  de  la  Seo  de  Saragoza,  se  ban  ofre* 
cide  desde  1579  hasta  1601/  by  Mandura  (MS.), 
in  Archives  of  the  Seo.  The  best  work  on  the 
Cathedral. 

3.  A  poor,  but  in  some  respects  useful,  'Guia 
de  Zaragoza,'  Zaragoza,  V.  Andres,  Cuchilleria, 
No.  42,  i860. 

4.  Consult  also  '  Esp.  Sag.'  xxx.  426.  Reus. 
— 'Anales  Hist,  de  Reus,'  by  Bofarull  y 
Broca;  Reus,  Sabater,  1845,  2  vols.,  410. 

For  the  Pyrenees  consult  'The  Pyrenees,' 
by  Charles  Packe,  latest  edition,  and  read 
'Souvenirs  d'un  Montagnard'  (1858-1888),  by 
Count  Henry  Russell ;  Paris,  1888. 

Zaragoza,  21  kiL  Fares: — xst  cL,  8r.  50c.;  ad 
cL,  6r.  25c.;  3d  cL,  4r.  75c  In  40  minutes  twice 
a-day  to  Zaragoza. 


MADRID  10 BADAJOS,  LISBON  &  OPORTO. 


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PORTUGAL. 


General  Idea. — Portugal  possesses 
great  attractions  in  the  varied  range  of 
its  scenery,  though,  from  the  somewhat 
reduced  scale  of  its  natural  features,  it 
seldom  acquires  that  character  of  wild 
grandeur  and  sublimity  which  is  found  in 
Spanish  landscapes.  Independently  of 
this,  it  possesses  the  great  and  permanent 
charm  of  a  climate  generally  pleasant  and 
wholesome,  a  simple-hearted,  primitive 
peasantry  (picturesque  and  altogether 
novel  in  dress  and  appearance),  and  his- 
torical associations  dear  to  every  English- 
man. Portugal  will  fail  to  interest  the 
ordinary  sight-seeing  tourists,  and  all 
art  amateurs.  Nor  is  the  lack  of  monu- 
mental records  of  the  past  anywise 
compensated  for  by  the  cheering  spectacle 
of  modern  activity  and  enterprise,  for 
here  Queen  Indolence  reigns  supreme  over 
a  sun-fed  population,  who,  as  devotees  of 
*  sweet  nothing-to-do/  afford  another  in- 
stance of  the  fact,  that  wherever  nature 
assumes  her  queenly  robes,  man  is  her 
slave,  and  never  becomes  her  master. 

Travelling  is  now  comparatively  easy 
to  what  it  used  to  be  but  a  few  years  ago : 
roads  are  generally  well  kept  up,  and 
perfectly  secure ;  and  a  very  fair  idea  of 
the  country  may  be  obtained  in  an  easy 
and  rapid  manner  by  following  the  rail- 
way lines  which  cross  the  most  important 
portions,  connecting  the  principal  cities. 
In  the  larger  towns,  the  accommodation 
is  good,  and  the  food  very  tolerable ;  but 
whoever  intends  visiting  the  more  out-of- 
the-way  districts,  and  exploring  the  hills 
and  their  romantic  scenery,  must  be  pre- 
pared to  rough  it.  The  charges  at  hotels, 
and  the  railway  tariffs,  are  pretty  much 
the  same  as  in  Spain. 

Geography.  —  Portugal,  the  most 
westerly,  and  one  of  the  most  southern 
kingdoms  of  Europe,  lies  between  36°  50' 
and  42°  10'  lat,  and  the  7th,  8th,  9th, 
and  10th  long.  W.  Green  vrich.  Its  great- 
est breadth  from  E.  to  W.  is  about  153 
miles  ;  its  greatest  length  N.  to  S.  of  some 

2 


356  miles  ;  and  its  surface,  35,189  squaro 
miles.  Save  on  the  west,  where  it  is 
washed  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  Portugal 
is  hemmed  in  on  every  side  by  Spain, 
from  which  it  is  divided  by  no  well- 
defined  natural  frontier.  It  is  really 
nothing  but  an  estrangement  of  portions 
of  Estremadura,  Castile,  and  Gallicia,  in- 
habited by  a  people  of  the  same  origin, 
who  have  gone  astray  from  the  mother 
country.  She  still  claims  it  as  of  her 
own  race,  and  trusts  the  runaway,  how- 
ever hostile  hitherto,  may  some  day 
resume  her  proper  place  among  the  sister 
provinces. 

Mountains. — The  country  is  hilly, 
but  contains  some  very  flat  districts. 
The  hills  never  reach  in  height  anything 
approaching  to  the  Spanish  Pyrenees  or 
Sierra  Nevada,  the  greatest  altitude  being 
7880  feet  (Onteiro  Maior).  The  oro- 
graphic system  ruling  Portugal  may  be 
easily  explained.  Four  main  chains  of 
mountains,  each  a  prolongation  of  corre- 
sponding Spanish  ranges,  cross  the  coun- 
try, and  gradually  subside  as  they  near 
the  Atlantic,  into  which  they  plunge,  the 
last  links  of  the  riveting  chain.  1.  La 
Serra  da  Estrella,  the  Roman  Herminius 
Mons,  forms  the  backbone  of  Portugal, 
extends  from  the  Spanish  main  central 
Guadarrama  range,  a  prolongation  south- 
wards of  the  Pyrenean  system,  runs  east 
to  west,  and  reaches  at  its  highest  peak, 
that  of  Canariz,  an  altitude  of  7500  feet. 
2.  Serra  de  Gerez,  on  the  north,  whose 
highest  peak  is  7400  feet.  3.  Serra  de 
Ossa  and  San  Mamede,  a  prolongation  of 
the  Montes  de  Toledo,  2400  feet ;  and  4. 
Serra  de  Monchique  in  the  south,  a  pro- 
longation of  Sierra  Morena,  and  whose 
highest  peak,  O  Foya,  reaches  4050  feet 
The  sea-coast  line  is  about  500  miles  in 
length,  low  on  the  north,  but  craggy  and 
steep  more  towards  the  centre,  depressed 
in  the  southern  portion  of  Alemtejo,  and 
with  few  sandy  islets  of  any  importance, 
save  the  Borlengas  group,  east  of  Peniche. 

M 


630 


PORTUGAL 


With  the  exception  of  the  Montezinho 
hill,  near  Braganza,  7100  feet,  there  are 
no  hills  with  perpetual  snow. 

Rivers. — The  principal  rivers  are  the 
Tagus  (d  Tejo).  which  flows  through 
Toledo,  runs  a  course  parallel  to  the  Serra 
de  Estrella  and  Guadarrama,  and  disem- 
bogues at  Lisbon,  being  partly  navigable ; 
the  Douro  (Span.  l)uero)t  which,  to  a 
certain  extent,  divides  Portugal  from 
Spain ;  the  Guadiana,  between  Andalucia 
and  Alemtejo,  flowing  out  into  the  Atlan- 
tic south  of  the  kingdom.  There  are  a 
great  many  more  besides,  of  less  import- 
ance, such  as  the  Minho,  Mondego,  Lima, 
Cavado,  Sado,  Zezere,  Tamega — upwards, 
in  all,  of  300  watercourses,  many  of  which 
are  either  very  low  or  dried  up  in  sum- 
mer, and  become  torrents  when  swollen 
by  the  rains  and  molten  snows. 

Lakes,  etc. — There  are  a  few  moun- 
tain lakes,  but  of  no  importance;  salt 
marshes  at  Setubal,.and  salt  water  springs 
at  Rio  Maior,  near  Santarem.  Mineral 
springs  are  not  wanting,  there  being  as 
many  as  200,  the  most  important  of 
which  are — that  of  Rainha,  in  Estrema- 
dura,  83°  Fahr. ;  of  Gerez  and  the  sulphur- 
eous of  Alcacarias,  near  Lisbon. 

Climate. — The  climate  is  generally 
healthy  and  temperate,  more  especially 
on  the  sea-coast  and  the  table-lands  in 
the  interior.  The  heat  in  summer  is 
greater  than  in  Spain,  and  insufficiently 
tempered  by  the  sea-breezes.  The  cold 
season  begins  end  of  November,  and  lasts 
till  end  of  February.  December  is  rainy 
and  very  windy  ;  the  snow,  abundant  in 
the  northern  districts,  is  rare  in  the  valleys 
of  the  interior  ;  and  spring  is  everywhere 
most  delightful.  There  is  great  variety, 
according  to  the  situation,  differences  of 
altitude,  proximity  to  the  sea  and  hills. 
Coimbra  is  said  to  be  more  temperate 
than  Lisbon,  but  more  rainy  and  less 
healthy ;  Oporto  is  wet  and  cloudy  in 
winter  ;  colder  then,  and  warmer  in  sum- 
mer, than  any  other  place  in  the  same 
latitude.  The  climate  of  the  province  of 
Algarve  is  delightful  in  winter  and  spring. 
The  districts  south  of  Tagus,  vicinity  of 
Setubal,  etc.,  are  unhealthy.  The  most 
agreeable  and  best  suited  to  invalids  is 
perhaps  that  of  Cintra  (see  Lisbon) 


Natural  Productions. — The  soil  is 
generally  rich  and  very  fertile  in  the 
watered  valleys.  The  flora  is  varied.  The 
hills  are  clothed  with  firs,  holm-oaks,  oaks, 
chestnuts,  and  birch,  which  latter  are  met 
on  the  higher  summits.  Oak -forests 
succeed;  and  gradually  lower  the  cork- 
tree, carob,  kermes,  lemon,  orange,  olive, 
and,  in  the  warmest  sheltered  regions,  the 
aloe  and  date.  The  most  characteristic 
flora  of  Portugal  is  found  in  the  valleys 
of  Minho  and  Beira.  Fruit-trees  of 
all  kinds  thrive  plentifully :  upwards  of 
200  million  oranges  are  yearly  gathered, 
and  are  perhaps  the  best  in  the  world ; 
seven  million  kilogrammes  of  figs  are  pro- 
duced; corn  grows,  especially  on  the 
table-lands  of  Alemtejo,  Traz-os-Montes, 
and  Minho.  The  valleys  produce  excel- 
lent wine,  such  as  Oporto  (port  wine),  of 
Carcavelos,  and  Setubal,  of  which  three  mil- 
lion hectolitres  are  yearly  obtained.  Cattle 
and  sheep  are  reared,  there  being  upwards 
of  two  and  a  half  million  heads  of  latter ; 
but  both  the  flesh  and  wool  are  of  inferior 
kind,  owing  to  the  want  and  poverty  of 
pasture-land.  Mules  and  asses  are  almost 
exclusively  used  as  beasts  of  burden,  and 
horses  are  of  an  inferior  breed.  Excellent 
fish  abound  in  the  rivers  and  on  the 
coasts,  and  there  is  some  good  shooting 
during  the  winter  months. 

Manufactures  are  backward,  and 
limited  to  woollens  at  Portalegre,  cotton- 
spinning  at  Thomar,  fine  linens  at  Gui- 
maraens,  jewellery  at  Braga,  and  silks  at 
Braganza.  Lisbon  and  Porto  are  the  chief 
centres  of  the  manufacturing  as  well  as  of 
the  commercial  movement  of  the  kingdom. 
The  mineral  wealth  is  said  to  be  great, 
but  very  much  neglected.  Mines  are  now 
being  worked  in  Estremadura.  Copper  is 
found  and  considerably  extracted  at  Pal- 
hal ;  lead  at  Bracal,  in  the  same  district. 
The  principal  mine  is,  however,  the  copper 
one  of  S.  Domingo,  near  Villareal,  in  the 
Algarve.  Some  coal  is  found  near  Buar cos; 
and  fine  marble  quarries  are  numerous. 

Trade.-— The  principal  exports  are 
wine  (vines  occupy  a  surface  of  about 
812,500  acres),  which  is  carried  on  prin- 
cipally by  English  firms;  vinegars,  oil, 
dry  fruit,  corn,  etc.  The  annual  amount 
of  imports  is  about  £9,000,000;    the 


PORTUGAL. 


531 


1 


exports,  £7,000,000  ;  making  a  total  of, 
about  £15,000,000.  The  principal  foreign 
ports  with  which  trade  is  carried  on  are 
English  or  Brazilian.  About  21,000 
ships  leave  and  enter  the  various  ports 
in  the  year. 

Statistics,  etc. — Portugal,  formerly,  and  far 
more  naturally,  divided  into  seven  provinces  or 
kingdoms,  has  been  subdivided,  since  1835,  into 
seventeen  districts  or  administrators.  The 
former  Minho  now  contains  the  district  of 
Braga,  Vianna,  Porto ;  that  of  Traz-os-Montest 
Braganza  and  Villareal ;  Beira,  Aveiro,  Castel- 
lobranco,  Coimbra,  Guarda,  Viseu.  Estrema- 
dura  comprises  Lisbon,  Leiria,  and  Santarem ; 
the  old  kingdom  of  Algarve,  Faro ;  Alemtejo, 
Beja,  Evora,  and  Portalegre.  Each  is  sub- 
divided again  into  concelhos,  the  Asturian  con- 
cejos,  and  those  into  parishes. 

The  population  of  continental  Portugal  is 
5,400,000 ;  of  its  European  islands  and  Madeira, 
400,000;  of  its  African  and  Asiatic  colonies, 
4,100,000 ;  making  a  total  of  9,900,000.  The 
monarchy  is  constitutional,  with  two  houses 
of  parliament ;  and  the  estimated  budget  for 
1893-94  was — revenue,  £9,146,674 ;  expenditure, 
£10,271,637.  The  public  debt  is  about  £148^ 
millions,  or,  with  floating  liabilities,  a  little 
over  153  millions.  The  army  consists  of  40,000 
men  on  a  peace  footing,  125,000  on  a  war  footing; 
the  navy  of  55  ships  (39  steam,  16  sailing)  with 
4200  sailors.  There  are  sixteen  fortified  places, 
of  which  Elvas,  Estremoz,  Peniche,  Valenca, 
are  the  most  important.  The  chief  ports  are 
Lisbon,  Porto,  Figueira,  Setuval.  Public  in- 
struction is  well  organised :  a  good  university 
at  Coimbra,  and  academia  at  Porto. 

History.— The  Portuguese  are  thought  to  be 
of  Celtic  origin,  and  formed  the  largest  portion 
of  Roman  Lusitania,  so  called,  say  the  learned, 
from  Lysias,  the  son  of  Bacchus  ;  Portugal,  its 
subsequent  name,  being  derived  from  the  city 
of  Porto,  near  which  stood  the  Roman  town 
Calle,  which,  being  joined,  made  Porto-Calle  ; 
though  it  may  be  more  likely  to  suppose  that 
the  former  Latin  appellation  was  dropped  when 
the  other  most  important  territory  about  Porto 
was  repeopled,  and  the  city  rebuilt  by  Gascons 
and  French ;  whence  Portus  Gallus,  or  Gallo- 
rum.  The  Roman  dominion  lasted  five  cen- 
turies and  a  half;  the  Visigothic  began  a.d. 
588 ;  the  Moorish,  714.  From  the  Moors, 
Portugal  was  wrested  by  the  Asturian-Spaniards. 
It  subsequendy  became  part  of  the  kingdom  of 
Leon,  whose  king,  Alfonso  VI.,  in  1095,  be- 
stowed it  in  fief  to  Count  Henry  of  Burgundy, 
grandson  of  Duke  Robert  I.,  one  of  the  many 
fortune-seeking  nobles  of  that  age  who  resorted  ! 


to  Spain  to  fight  the  infidel  and  better  theii 
prospects.  He  was  eminently  successful  against 
the  Moor,  and,  as  a  reward,  obtained  the  hand 
of  the  monarch's  natural  daughter,  with  Portu- 
gal as  her  dowry.  Affonso  Henriques,  the 
Count's  son,  became  independent,  and,  after 
the  battle  of  Ourique,  1139,  was  proclaimed 
king  of  Portugal.  The  house  of  Burgundy 
lasted  until  1385,  when  Portugal  rose  to  great 
political  importance  and  commercial  prosperity. 
The  kingdom,  originally  limited  to  the  territory 
between  Minho  and  the  Tagus,  was  consider- 
ably aggrandised  by  the  successive  annexations 
of  Alemtejo,  district  of  Lisbon,  part  of  Spanish 
Estremadura,  which  happened  in  the  reign  of 
Affonso  I.,  and  of  the  Algarves,  under  Affonso 
III.  The  monarchs  of  the  house  of  Aviz,  who 
succeeded  during  the  years  1385  to  1580,  ob- 
tained important  territories  in  N.  Africa, 
founded  colonies  in  India  and  Brazil,  and  pro- 
moted the  great  discoveries  of  the  age.  August 
4,  1578,  was  fought  the  disastrous  battle  of 
Alcocer  Quibir,  celebrated  for  the  routing  of 
the  Portuguese,  and  in  which  the  flower  of  the 
nobility  was  mowed  down  by  the  Moors.  The 
disappearance  of  King  Don  SebastiSa  was  the 
origin  of  an  extraordinary  superstition,  which 
rose  almost  to  a  sect,  called  the  Sebastianists, 
who  firmly  believed  in  the  immortality  of  their 
king — 'O  encoherto,'  the  'hidden  one' — who 
was  to  return  from  captivity  and  restore  the 
kingdom  to  its  ancient  splendour.  This  delusion 
has  not  ceased  to  this  day,  though  it  is  now 
limited  to  the  ignorant,  rude  inhabitants  of  the 
wild  mountain  districts.  On  the  death  of  the 
King-Cardinal  Henrique,  in  1580,  the  succes- 
sion to  the  crown  was  disputed  by  Philip  II.  of 
Spain,  who  was  descended,  by  his  mother,  of 
the  royal  blood  of  Portugal ;  by  Joao,  Duke 
of  Braganza ;  and  many  other  pretenders.  The 
claims  of  Philip,  supported  by  the  Duke  of 
Alva's  armies,  were  successfully  asserted ;  and 
the  Spanish  dominion,  called  by  the  Portuguese 
the  'Sixty  Years'  Captivity,'  lasted  till  1640, 
when,  under  Philip  IV.,  a  conspiracy  broke  out 
at  Lisbon,  headed  by  the  Duke  of  Braganza, 
and  compelled  the  Spanish  government  to  aban- 
don the  country.  Under  the  house  of  Bra- 
ganza, which  still  reigns,  Portugal  recovered 
part  of  her  former  prosperity.  On  the  French 
invasion,  in  1807,  the  Court  retired  to  BraziL 
The  Portuguese,  allied  to  Spaniards,  rose 
against  the  invader,  requesting  the  help  of  Great 
Britain,  never  '  la  perfide  Albion,'  when  her  aid 
is  wanted.  In  vain  did  the  best  French  mar- 
shals— Massena,  Junot,  Soult — endeavour  to 
repress  the  movement  of  resistance.  The 
Anglo-Portuguese  army  was  everywhere  victo- 
rious ;  and  after  several  campaigns  and  strategic 
operations,  which  will  rank  high  in  the  annals 


532 


PORTUGAL. 


of  England's  militaiy  giory,  the  French  were 
expelled.  The  Court,  till  1821,  continued  to 
reside  in  Brazil,  when  Don  Joao  VI.  at  the 
summons  of  the  Cortes  returned  to  Portugal. 
Brazil  became  an  independent  empire  the 
ensuing  year,  with  the  king's  son,  Don  Pedro, 
for  emperor.  A  civil  war  broke  out  at  the 
death  of  Don  Joao,  who  had  left  the  crown  to 
his  daughter  Donna  Maria  de  Gloria,  on  con- 
dition of  her  marrying  her  uncle,  Don  Miguel. 
Once  more  did  an  English  army,  15,000  strong, 
enter  Portugal  and  put  things  to  rights;  and 
since  that  time  the  country,  constitutionally 
governed,  is  prosperous  on  the  whole,  though 
doomed,  as  all  southern  nations,  to  occasional 
outbreaks  of  violence  and  snatches  of  unde- 
fined independence  common  to  climes  where 
political  constitutions  either  burst  or  melt — 
regions  of  vines  and  volcanoes. 

Language — Literature. — The  language  of 
Portugal  is  derived  from  the  Latin,  and  con- 
tains a  great  many  Celtic,  Gothic,  and  Arabic 
words,  and,  more  latterly,  some  French.  It 
bears  great  resemblance  to  the  Gallician  dialect, 
the  Romanic  tongue  of  that  part  of  Spain  vary- 
ing somewhat  both  as  to  pronunciation  and  ex- 
pressions according  to  proximity  to  Estremadura, 
Andalusia,  or  the  north  Spanish  provinces.  It 
is  softer  than  Spanish,  being  free  from  the  harsh 
Arabic  gutturals,  and  abounds  in  words  and 
terminations  of  great  delicacy  and  charm,  but  its 
nasal  sounds  are  not  pleasant ;  and  though  grave 
and  sonorous,  somewhat  '  nnchado,'  it  is  on  the 
whole  inferior  to  the  more  harmonious,  richer, 
and  more  nervous  Spanish.  English  and  French 
are  spoken  only  in  the  large  cities,  and  this  to 
no  extent.  Save  on  the  frontiers,  even  Spanish 
is  scarcely  understood.  Portuguese  literature, 
though  not  considerable,  and  less  important 
than  that  of  any  other  southern  European  nation, 
has  nevertheless  produced  several  writers  of 
genius  and  great  scholarship.  The  sixteenth 
century  was  the  Augustan  age  of  Portuguese 
letters,  bringing  forth  such  men  as  Camoens, 
among  poets,  the  greatest  of  the  country,  and 
author  of  '  As  Lusiadas,'  1517-1579 ;  the  pas- 
toral poet,  Sa-a-Miranda;  in  the  drama,  A. 
Ferriera,  1728-69 ;  Gil  Vicente,  1480-1557 ;  the 
historians,  Joao  de  Barras,  1570  ;  Albuquerque, 
1452-15 ;  Brito,  etc. ;  and  in  the  seventeenth 
century  Manzino's  epic  poems;  Pereira  de 
Castro,  1571-1632;  Mascarenhas,  Macedos,  etc.; 
and,  later  still,  Herculano,  the  best  historian  ; 
the  cosmographers  and  discoverers,  Magalhaens 
(our  Magellan),  B.  Diaz,  Vasco  de  Gama,  etc. 
(See  Glossary,  p.  534.) 

Fine  Arts. —  In  this  respect  Portugal  ranks 
very  low  among  nations.  Artists  of  talent  there 
have  been,  but  no  man  of  genius  except  Gran 
Vasco,  who  lived  in  the  fifteenth  century,  and 


whose  best  pictures  are  seen  in  Lisbon.  In  the 
seventeenth  century  there  were  a  few  good 
painters,  such  as  Bento  Coelho,  Diogo  Pereira 
Manoel  Pereira,  d'Avellar,  and  Francisco  Vieira, 
in  the  eighteenth.  The  characteristic  feature 
of  their  painting  is  colouring,  the  subjects  mostly 
religious  or  allegorical,  except  Vieira,  who  painted 
for  the  Court.  Of  architectural  remains  of  any 
importance  there  are  few,  and  these  mostly  mo- 
dernised, owing  to  frequent  earthquakes  injur- 
ing the  former  buildings,  to  the  devastations 
committed  during  wars,  and  the  mania  of  re- 
building peculiar  to  the  eighteenth  century. 
The  principal  buildings  to  notice  are — Church 
of  Belem  and  Carmo  (Lisbon) ;  the  fourteenth 
century  Church  of  Batalha;  Cathedrals  of 
Coimbra  and  Braga ;  Alcobaca,  Lamego,  etc. 

The  People,  Dress,  etc.—  The  character  of 
the  peasantry,  their  dress  and  manners,  differ  a 
good  deal  according  to  the  provinces.  They 
are  on  the  whole  remarkable  for  their  piety, 
bordering  on  superstition,  their  loyalty,  primi- 
tiveness,  and  simplicity,  want  of  enterprise,  ac- 
tivity, love  of  'siesta'  and  'maSona,'  in  a  word 
that  ivant  of  wants  which  spurs  on  less  favoured 
peoples  to  work  and  looking  about.  They  are 
silent,  trustworthy,  sensitive,  temperate,  fond 
of  grandiloquence,  of  no  great  physical  beauty, 
devoid  of  quickness,  ready  wit,  or  of  much  ima- 
gination. The  females  are  very  domestic,  ami- 
able, and  retired.  The  dress  is  picturesque, 
especially  in  the  N.  provinces,  but  not  so 
pleasing  or  striking  as  it  is  in  Spain. 

Travelling  Season.— The  best  season 
is  autumn  and  spring,  and  especially 
summer  in  some  of  the  northern  hilly 
districts.  September  and  October  are 
very  agreeable  months,  as  well  as  April 
and  part  of  May. 

Inns.— Hotels  of  any  importance  must 
not  be  looked  for  except  in  the  largest 
towns.  In  the  rest,  there  are  small,  gener- 
ally ill-provided  inns,  called  'estalagem,' 
and  roadside  pot-houses  or  vendas.  The 
charge  at  hotels  varies  from  10s.-l  5s.  a  day. 

Conveyances. — In  the  interior  of  tne 
country  roads  are  seldom  good.  Here 
and  there  hired  carriages  with  two  places, 
drawn  by  two  mules,  can  be  obtained  for 
short  journeys  ;  they  are  called  Traquir 
tanhas.  Where  there  are  no  roads, 
litters  (liteiras)  are  used,  carried  by  mules, 
one  at  each  end.  Some  eight  leagues 
a-day  can  be  performed  in  this  manner, 
and  at  the  rate  of  3s.  to  4s.  a  league, 
Travelling  on  mules  is  also  resorted  to; 
it  costs  some  lis.  to  14s.  per  day. 


PORTUGAL. 


533 


There  are  now  more  than  1500  m.  of  rail 
(Caminho  de  Ferro)  and  200  m.  of  tram. 

Food. — Chickens  and  hens  are  easily 
to  be  procured,  as  well  as  eggs  and  ham. 
Gastronomers  are  reminded  that  the  best 
sardines  in  the  world  are  fished  on  the  W. 
coast.  Tea  (cha)  is  good,  and  a  common 
drink.  There  are  excellent  preserves : 
delicious  strawberries  in  the  N.;  deli- 
cious oranges,  the  best  at  Setubal ;  the 
Elvas  plums  and  Algarve  figos  (figs) ;  the 
apricot  (damasco),  preserved.  Good 
common  wine  is  exceedingly  cheap,  and 
costs  3d.  to  6d.  a  pint ;  a  sort  of  cham- 
pagne, called  sparkling  Estremadura,  3d. 
the  pint ;  the  raw,  graphically  defined 
vinho  verde  (green  wine)  sells  for  20  reis 
the  pint. 

Boutes  and  Conveyances. — Portu- 
gal may  be  reached,  1st,  by  sea  from 
England,  by  beautiful  steamers  leaving 
Southampton  (Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet 
Company)  for  Rio  Janeiro,  Monte  Video, 
etc.,  at  frequent  and  regular  dates,  touch- 
ing at  Lisbon,  where  they  arrive  the  fourth 
day  (3|.  days).  The  Pacific  Steam  Com- 
pany leave  Liverpool  every  week  (see 
advts.)  From  France  (to  Lisbon),  from 
Havre  and  Bordeaux,  frequently,  by 
the  French  Steam  Navigation  Com- 
pany, the  Compagnie  Havraise  Pen- 
insulaire,  and  the  *  Western'  Com- 
pany ;  also  from  Marseilles.  From 
Spain  to  Lisbon  :  from  Gibraltar,  Cadiz, 
Malaga,  etc.,  by  the  Ligne  Peninsulaire, 
and  John  Hall  and  Co.'s  boats,  weekly. 
The  communications  between  the  princi- 
pal seaports  take  place  by  the  steamers 
of  Empresa  Portucase.  B. — By  land, 
exclusively  by  Spain  :  1st,  by  the  N.  by 
Vigo,  etc. ,  direct  line  over  the  Miiio  at 
Tuy ;  2d,  by  Valladolid,  Medina,  and 
Salamanca,  whence  to  Oporto  viA  Fre- 
geneda,  or  to  Lisbon  viA  Ciudad  Rodrigo 
and  Coimbra ;  3d,  by  rail  direct  from 
Madrid  vid  Caceres,  or  by  Badajoz ; 
4th,  from  Andalusia,  either  to  Monte 
or  Badajoz,  by  rail  throughout ;  or  by 
Beja,  by  diligence  or  riding,  whence  by 
rail  direct. 

Skeleton  Tours. — The  following  are 
suggested  when  the  object  is  confined  to  a 
rapid  survey  of  the  most  interesting  as  well 
as  most  accessible  portions  of  Portugal : — 


1.  Madrid  to  Lisbon,  by  rail. 
Lisbon   and  its    environs — Cintwu 

Mafra. 
Lisbon  to  Coimbra,  by  rail. 
Coimbra  to  Oporto,  by  rail. 
Oporto  to  Braga,  by  rail. 
To  return  to  Lisbon,  by  Oporto,  by 

rail 

2.  Lisbon  to  Evora,  Beja,  and  return 
either  same  way  or  by  Oldirellos,  Palma, 
Barreiro,  by  diligence  and  rail. 

The  chief  attraction  of  Portugal  being  its 
scenery,  those  in  quest  of  it,  and  who  wish  to 
obtain  only  a  general  impression,  may  confine 
their  excursion  to  the  province  of  Minho,  which 
is  the  most  beautiful  of  all.  We  shall  also  men- 
tion the  hartas  (hueitas)  and  rock  scenery  in 
the  Algarves;  the  wild  country  around  Serra 
de  Estrella;  the  scenery  between  Braga  and 
Vallenca ;  the  Valley  of  the  Lima.  The  grand- 
est views  are  those  obtained  from  the  Onteiro 
Maior,  the  ascent  to  which,  in  summer,  is  not 
difficult ;  the  Gerez  range ;  the  drive  from 
A  ma  ran  te  to  Pezo  de  Begoa  ;  the  banks  of  the 
Zezere,  Minho,  Duro,  and  Lima,  Tamega,  the 
country  round  Cintra,  etc. 

Passports  are  still  required  for  the 
principal  ports,  but  not  for  the  interior. 
On  arriving  at  Lisbon,  they  should  be 
delivered  at  the  Custom  House  (Alfan- 
dega),  and-  within  three  days  should  be 
applied  for  at  the  Governo  Civil.  It  is 
then  taken  to  the  British  Consulate, 
where,  on  a  recommendation  from  the 
consul,  it  is  returned  to  governo  civil,  and 
a  bilhete  de  residencia  obtained,  costing 
905  reis,  and  available  for  at  least  three 
months ;  but  a  mere  vise  is  sufficient,  when 
only  intending  to  remain  a  shorter  time. 

Telegraph.  —  A  fairly  good  and 
general  service.  Tariff,  90  reis  per  word 
to  England ;  20  reis  to  Spain. 

Postage — In  the  Interior. — Letters  of 
£  of  an  ounce,  a  stamp  of  25r.  extends 
to  Azores  and  Madeira.  To  and  from 
Portugal. — To  Portugal  from  England, 
by  packed  steamer,  according  to  weight : 
under  £  oz.,  2 J — under  1  oz.,  5d. ;  news- 
papers Id.  according  to  rates  of  Postal 
Union.  From  Portugal  to  England,  via 
France  or  otherwise,  same  as  above. 
Letters  from  Spain,  see  Spain  (Post- 
Office). 

Money. — The  money  is  most  per- 
pl  exing  to  reckon.  The  reis,  an  imaginary 
coin,  is  the  lowest 


534 


PORTUGAL. 


Current  Coinage. 


Name. 


Copper. 


Cinco  reis  5  reis 

Diz  reis  10  reis 

1  Vintem  20  reis 

1  Pataca  50  reis 

Silver. 
Meio  (|)  testao  50  reis 
1  Testao  100  reis 

Dois  (2)  testoes  200  reis 
Cinco  (5)  tes 

toes,  or  half-  ^  500  reis 

dollar     . 
The   dollar, 

Milrei    . 


Englisn 

8.  n. 

0  0| 

0  Oj 

0  1    (about) 

0  2 

0  2J 

0  4J 

0  9* 

2  1 


1000  reis      4    2 


Gold. 


1 


s. 

1 


8 


1 
2 


2     24 

4    5 
million 


Moeda(Moidore)     4800  reis 
MeiaCoroa(half-  j  5000  ^ 

crown     .  ) 

1  Coroa  10,000  reis 

The  conto,  equivalent  to  one 
reis,  is  equal  to  about  £222. 
1  French  franc-piece  =  250  reis. 
50  Centimes  =  1  tevstao. 
5  Franc-piece  =  1000  reis. 
Spanish  real  =  50  reis. 
21  Reals  =  1000  reis. 
1,000,000  Reis  =  5260  pesetas. 

Weights  and  Measures— Measures. 
— The  pound,  or  arratel,  is  divided  into 
two  marcs  =  8  ounces  =  8  oitares  =  72 
grains.  The  arratel  is  equal  to  459 
French  grammes.  32  arrateis  make  1 
arrobe,  or  14  kilogrammes,  688  grammes ; 
and  4  arrobes  1  quintel  =  58  kilogrammes 
752  grammes.  Long  Measure — The  Por- 
tuguese foot  =  32  centimetres  85  milli- 
metres. The  vara = 1  millimetre  10  centi- 
metres. The  covado  =  68  centimetres. 
The  land -measure  geira=58  ares  275 
centiares.  The  Portuguese  league  of  18 
to  a  degree  =  5  kilometres,  552  metres  : 
about  3  miles,  2  furlongs,  188  yards. 
The  liquid  measures — 1  almude  =  16  litres 
951  decilitres.  1  quartilho,  about  half-a- 
litre.  The  alqueire  (used  for  grain)  =  13 
litres  81 5  decilitres.  The  decimal  system 
is  obligatory  in  Portugal. 

A  short  Glossary  of  some  of  the 
most  useful  words : — 


English. 

Give  me 

Some  bread 
meat 
wine 
beer 
fruit 

An  orange 

An  apricot 

Beef 

Mutton 

Veal 

Ham 

Roast 

Boiled 

I  have 

To  have 

Bring  me 

Tea 

Eggs 

Butter 

Milk 

A  knife 

A  fork 

A  spoon 

A  plate 

A  napkin 

A  bottle 

A  horse 

Muleteer 

A  ferry 

Post-office 

Fountain 

A  square 

A  shop 

Palace 

The  hour 

One,  two,  three, 
four,  five,  six, 
seven,  eight, 
nine,  ten,  eleven, 
twelve,  thirteen, 
twenty,  thirty 

One  hundred 

One  thousand 

A  church 

A  park 

Road 

House 

What  is  the  name 
of  that  ? 

First-class 

Luggage 

Railway 


Portuguese. 
DSme 

Pad"  (m.)  (a«">.  for  an; 
Carne  (/.) 
Vinho  (m,.) 
Cerveja  (/.) 
Fruta  (/.) 
Uma  laranja  (/.) 
Um  damasco  (m.) 
Vaca(/.) 
Carneiro  (to.) 
Vitella  (/) 
Presunto  (m.) 
Assado 
Cozida 
Tenho 

Haver  or  tor 
Traze-me 
Cha  (m.) 
Ovos  (m.) 
Manteiga  {/.) 
Leite  (m.) 
Uma  faca  {/.) 
Um  garf  o-  (m. ) 
Uma  colher  (/.) 
Um  prato  (m. ) 
Uma  toalha  (/.) 
'Umagarrafa  (/.) 
Um  cavallo  (to.) 
Arrieiro  (m.) 
Umabarca  (/.) 
Correio  (m.) 
Chaf arize 
Largo  or  praca 
Uma  loja  (/. ) 
Pa9o 
A  hora 

Um,  dous,  tres,  cua- 
tro,  cinco,  seis,  sete, 
oito,  nove,  des,ouze, 
doze,  treze,  vinte, 
trinta 

Cem 

Mil 

Igreja 

Uma  tapada 

Caminho 

Casa 

Como  se  chama  isto  1 

Um  primeiro  lugar 
Bagagem 
Caminho  da  f  erro 


535 


LISBON. 


A  seaport.     Capital  of  Portugal,  and 
of  the  Province  of  Estremadura.     Arch- 
bishopric.    Pop.   810,000,  suburbs  in- 
cluded. 
Meant  of  access.— Yrom  England,  by  sea, 
the  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet 
Company  despatch  a  steamer 
from  Southampton  for  Rio  Jan- 
eiro, Monte  Video,  Buenos  Ayres,  etc.,  at  fre- 
quent and  regular  intervals,  calling  at  Lisbon. 
The  passage  is  performed  in  3}  days.    Fares, 
j£is,  j£io.     Steamers  of  the  Pacific  Steam 
Navigation  Company  leave  Liverpool  twice  a 
week  (see  advts.).    Messrs.  John    Hall   and 
Co.'s  boats  leave  London  for  Lisbon,!  Cadiz, 
etc.,  weekly. 

By   rail   to   Paris,    Bordeaux, 
embark    to    Lisbon    (see  from 
France),  or  Havre,  or  Marseilles, 
going  round  by  the  Spanish  coast. 
From  France,  by  sea. — From  Havre,  steam- 
ers of  the  French  Steam  Navi- 
gation Company  leave  for  Per- 
nambuco,  Rio  de  Janeiro,  and 
Northern  Brazil  weekly,  on  Saturday,  calling 
at  Lisbon.    Three  to  four  days.     Fare  250  fr. 
From  Bordeaux  the  first-rate  steamers  of  the 
Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company,  leave  for 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  Monte  Video,  Buenos  Ayres, 
etc,    pretty   regularly    every    week,    calling 
at  Lisbon  in  3 J  days.    Fares,  £6 :  4s.,  £4  '  4s. 
and  £1 :  4s.     For  other  frequent  sailings  see 
time-tables,  etc.    Also  for  changes  of  service. 
By   rail,    Paris    to    Bayonne, 
whence  either  by  Madrid,  or  by 
^Salamanca  and   Coimbra,  or  by 
Estremadura. 
From  Gibraltar,  by  sea. — Steamers  of  the 
Ligne  Peninsulaire  leave  fort- 
nightly ;  the  boats  of  John  Hall 
and  Co.  weekly.     The  former 
may  also  be  taken  from  Cadiz,  and  the  latter 
from  Malaga  or  Cadiz.    See  also  the  advertise- 
ments of  the  Compagnie  Havraise,  etc 
From  Seville. — Diligence    and    riding  by 
Fuente  de  Cantos,  or  by  Niebla, 
S.  Lucar  de  Guadiana,  Beja, 
thence  by  rail ;  or  by  rail  to 
*Badajoz,  and  direct  rail.    The 
latter  the  quickest  way. 
-     From  Madrid. — The  most  direct  route  is 
vid    Talavera,   Navalmoral   and 
Valencia  de  Alcantara,  dist.  658 
.kils. ;  time,  21  hrs   by  exp.     A 
most  uninteresting  line  but  con- 
venient   Those  travellers  to  whom  time  is  no 


great  object  may  do  well  to  keep  to  the  old  line 
vid  Alcazar,  Ciudad  Real,  Mdrida  and  Bada- 
joz,  879  kils.,  stopping  here  and  there  for  the 
sake  of  visiting  some  of  the  interesting  places 
by  the  way.  Follow  Madrid  to  Alicante  line, 
as  far  as  Alcazar  de  San  Juan ;  fair  buffet ;  often 
very  long  stoppage.  The  Andalusian  line  is 
now  followed  to  Manzanares,  where  carriages 
are  changed  again,  15  min.  stop.  Vines  and 
well-cultivated  plains  are  seen  in  every  direc- 
tion, and  Daimiel  is  reached ;  an  important 
town  of  La  Mancha,  13,000  inhab.,  ill  built, 
and  devoid  of  interest.  The  fertile  corn- 
growing  and  pasture  land  around  it  is  known 
by  the  name  of  '  El  Campo  de  Calatrava,'  for- 
merly the  estates  of  the  wealthy  military  order 
of  that  name,  suppressed  2533  by  the  Catholic 
Kings ;  but  existing  still  in  a  modified  manner. 
Almagro,  9000  inhab.,  appears  on  left  of  the 
line,  once  exclusively  inhabited  by  monks  and 
Calatrava  knights  ;  now  important  as  being  the 
chief  manufacturing  town  of  La  Mancha,  where 
blondes  and  lace  are  made  and  exported  to 
Paris.  Some  lace-manufacturers  employ  as 
many  as  900  work-women.  On  leaving  Al- 
magro  the  country  becomes  triste  and  uninter- 
esting. The  sombre  olive  clothes  the  slopes  of 
Sierra  Morena  on  our  right ;  after  crossing  Mig- 
uelturra,  we  reach  Ciudad  Real,  13,500  inhab., 
capital  of  province  of  same  name,  and  formerly 
of  La  Mancha  (Inns:  Baltasar  Garcia,  and 
H.  Pizarroso).  In  a  plain  watered  by  the 
Guadiana,  an  old  city  with  little  to  interest  save 
the  Colegiate,  a  Gothic  church  of  one  very 
large  nave,  a  good  Coro,  and  well-sculptured 
retablo,  with  figures'  and  scenes  from  New  Tes- 
tament. Near  Argamasilla  de  Calatrava  is 
the  rivulet,  and  not  far  from  it,  the  hamlet  of 
Tirteafuera,  the  birthplace  of  Sanchos  Panzas, 
Doctor  Pedro  Recio,  when  Don  Quixote's 
squire  became  governor  of  Barataria.  On  the 
right  stretches  Sierra  de  Santa  Brigida,  the 
country  becomes  tamer  and  tamer,  and  several 
wretched  depopulated  hamlets  are  crossed ;  the 
watering-place  of  Puerto  Mano  (a  ferrug. 
spring) ;  the  mining  Almaden  (see  that  name) ; 
the  coal  district  of  Belmez,  to  which  a  special 
rail  from  Almorckon,  and  we  arrive  at 


M^nda. — Inns:  Fonda  de  Diego 
Segura,  Santa  Olaya,  22.  Pop.  6000. 
This  town,  the  Rome  of  Spain,  to  which  its 
Tuins  bears  testimony,  and  considered  by 
some  as  its  rival,  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Guadiana,  and  is  crossed  by  a 


530 


LISBON. 


Roman  bridge  of  eighty-one  arches, 
2575  ft.  long,  25  ft.  broad,  and  33  ft. 
above  the  river.  Merida,  once  so  prosper- 
ous, great,  and  densely  peopled,  is  now 
truly  fallen  from  its  highest  state,  poverty- 
stricken,  and,  like  the  lion  of  the  fable, 
when  he  had  grown  weak  and  his  claws 
were  worn  out,  is  basely  scorned  and  ne- 
glected by  those  upstart  cities  over  which 
its  shadow  once  extended.  Its  walls  were 
6  leagues  in  circumference,  and  were 
strengthened  by  cubo  towers,  and  pierced 
by  eighty-four  gates ;  80,000  foot  soldiers 
and  10,000  horsemen  formed  its  garrison. 
It  is,  indeed,  a  city  of  marvels,  little  and 
imperfectly  known,  and  th*i  Moor  Basis 
had  it  that '  que  non  ha  home  en  el  mundo 
que  cumplidamente  pueda,  contar  las 
maravillas  de  Merida.'  Emerita  Augusta 
was  founded  23  B.O.,  and  the  veterans 
(Emeriti)  who  had  served  in  Calabria  were 
quartered  here  by  Augustus.  It  became 
the  capital  of  Lusitania.  The  Goths 
spared  the  Roman  works  and  built  an 
alcazar.  It  was  taken  by  Alfonso  the 
Learned  1229.  The  principal  sights  are 
El  Tajainar,  a  Roman  dyke  of  masonry 
executed  to  protect  the  bridge  against  in- 
undations. The  Arch  of  Santiago,  44  ft. 
high,  built  by  Trajan,  as  well  as  the  bridge 
and  much  mutilated  temple  of  Diana, 
now  the  Palacio  of  Conde  de  los  Corbos, 
where  admire  the  columns  and  other  ves- 
tiges of  Roman  art  The  ruins  of  the 
temple  of  Mars,  the  amphitheatre  outside 
the  town  to  east— called  familiarly  Las 
siete  Sillas,  from  the  seven  tiers  into  which 
the  seats  are  divided.  The  proscenium 
is  wanting  alone  that  it  should  be  perfect. 
The  naumachia — commonly  called  Bano 
de  los  Roman  os.  The  celebrated  aqueduct, 
which  consisted  of  three  tiers  of  arches, 
and  brought  the  water  4  miles  distant,, 
and  of  which  there  only  remain  now  some 
thirty  pillars  called  Los  Milagros ;  another 
aqueduct,  also  Roman,  and  which  consists 
of  140  arches.  The  Circus  Maximus, 
once  the  Roman  Hippodrome,  in  a  hollow 
to  right  of  Madrid  road,  1350  ft.  long  by 
335  ft.  wide  ;  eight  tiers  of  seats  still 
remain  ;  from  it  the  view  of  Merida  will 
please  the  artist's  eye.  The  forum  stood 
near  the  convent  de  las  Descalzas,  of  which 
some  few  shafts  of  columns  are  all  that 


remain.  Visit  also  the  semi-Moorish 
palace  of  Condes  de  la  Roca ;  an  excursion 
may  be  made  3  m.  north  to  Lago  de  Pro- 
serpina and  Charca  de  la  Albufera.  The 
huge  Roman  reservoirs,  the  towers  of 
which  are  still  called  Rocines.  6  m.  from 
Trujillanos  is  another  large  reservoir  called 
Albuera  de  Cornalvo. 

Badajoz. — Inns:  Fonda  Central ;  Casas 
deHuespedes.  Poor.  Fair  buffet  at  station. 
Capital  of  province  of  same  name,  and 
captaincy-general  of  Estremadura,  on  the 
left  bank  of  theGuadiana,  which  is  joined 
here  by  the  Ri villas.  The  town  stands 
picturesquely  on  the  slopes  of  a  hill,  which 
are  crowned  by  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle. 
Though  the  largest  town  in  Estremadura, 
and  a  bishop's  see,  it  is  but  dull,  without 
many  historical  associations.  The  Campo 
de  San  Juan  is  a  large  square,  where  stand 
the  cathedra],  town-hall,  theatre,  principal 
shops  ;  in  the  centre  is  the  shady  salon, 
the  most  fashionable  promenade.  Tho 
churches  are  not  remarkable.  The  ca- 
thedral, as  becomes  a  church  situated  on 
an  exposed  frontier,  partakes  of  the  for- 
tress style,  and  is  bombproof.  The  in- 
terior consists  of  three  naves,  with  an 
unmeaning  high  altar,  and  a  fine  tomb  of 
Bishop  Marin  del  Rodezno.  The  silleria 
is  well  carved.  There  are  some  good  pic- 
tures— a  Magdalen  by  Cerezo,  and  in  the 
chapel  the  Sta.  Ana.  Several  pictures  by 
Morales,  a  Badajoz  artist,  and  called  by 
some  the  Parmegiano  of  Spain.  The 
cloisters  are  fine.  In  the  church  de  la 
Concepcion  are  two  Morales,  unfortunately 
retouched.  The  bridge  across  the  river 
is  a  fine  work  of  Herrera.  Badajoz  is 
familiar  to  readers  of  history  of  the  Penin- 
sular war.  It  was  besieged  by  Marshal 
Soult  in  February  1811,  and  though  the 
place  was  well  fortified,  and  had  a  strong 
garrison  under  the  orders  of  General 
Menacho,  and  moreover  was  protected  by 
an  auxiliary  force  established  in  the  in- 
trenched camp  of  Santa  Engracia,  it  at 
length  surrendered  to  the  French,  this 
success  being  principally  the  result  of  the 
death  of  the  governor,  and  the  previous 
successful  attack  and  possession  of  the 
camp  ;  but  no  sooner  had  the  works  been 
repaired,  than  Marshal  Beresford,  who 
commanded  the  Anglo-Portuguese  army. 


LISBON. 


537 


suddenly  appeared,  and  invested  the  town. 
Maishal  Soult,  who  was.  then  at  Cadiz, 
hastened  back  at  the  head  of  17,000  men. 
The  allied  army  met  them  at  Albuera, 
fought  bravely,  yet  would  have  lost  the 
day  through  the  weakened  position  occu- 
pied by  Marshal  Beresford,  who  even 
ordered  the  retreat,  but  was  saved  by  Earl 
Harding  and  the  57th.  The  French  loss 
amounted  to  between  8000  and  9000  men, 
and  that  of  the  allies  to  5323.  The  Duke 
of  Wellington,  after  the  capture  of  Ciudad 
Rodrigo,  lost  no  time  in  attacking  Badajoz, 
March  1812.  The  place  was  defended  by 
Philippon  and  5000  French.  The  trenches 
were  opened  the  very  day  of  the  Duke's 
arrival,  for  no  time  was  to  be  lost,  as 
Soult  was  on  his  march  from  Seville,  and 
Marmont  from  Castile.  On  April  8,  the 
assault  took  place  on  the  S.E.  of  the  city. 
The  resistance  was  tremendous.  Colville 
Burnard's  troops  were  mowed  down, 
Walker's  division  (the  5th)  got  in  at  the 
San  Vicente  bastion  W.  of  the  town,  and 
Picton  carried  the  castle  to  the  N.E.,  thus 
winning  the  day.  The  town  was  sacked, 
and  the  Duke  and  officers  were  unable  to 
prevent  most  deplorable  excesses. 

The  Portuguese  frontier  is  reached  soon  after 
leaving  Badajoz ;  the  river  Cayad  is  crossed, 
which  separates  here  Spain  from  Portugal,  near 
which,  in  1382,  King  Fernando  I.  of  Portugal, 
heading  an  army  16,000  strong,  including  1200 
English  soldiers  under  the  Earl  of  Cambridge, 
met  the  Castilian  troops  commanded  by  Don 
Juan,  and  witnessed  a  tournament,  in  which 
Miles  Windsor  was  knighted  by  'the  souldich 
de  la  Trane.* 

Elvas,  the  first  Portuguese  town,  pop.  12,000, 
bishop's  see,  the  most  important  fortified  city  in 
the  kingdom,  situated  on  a  rugged  hill  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Guadiana.  Its  fortifications 
are  among  the  strongest  in  Europe.  They  were 
principally  the  work  of  Prince  Lippe  Buckeburg, 
and  date  from  the  last  centuiy.  The  city,  the 
key  of  the  Portuguese  frontier  on  the  left  side, 
is  almost  impregnable,  being  defended  by  Fort 
Sta.  Lucia,  a  quadrangular  work  south  of  city  ; 
Fort  Lippe,  which  contains  a  tank  capable  of 
holding  a  depth  of  water  of  24  feet,  filled  by 
means  of  an  aqueduct  with  three  rows  of  arches. 
Elvas  has,  besides,  a  Gothic  cathedral,  with  a 
grand  marble  sarcophagus,  and  a  remarkable 
painting  of  the  Assumption  by  L.  Grameira  ;  a 
theatre,  a  cannon-foundry,  etc.  Fine  views 
from  the  ramparts. 


Portalegre,  7500  inhabitants,  bishop's  see, 
province  of  Alemtejo.  The  Cathedral,  Casa  de 
Camara,  etc.,  are  not  interesting  sights.  In  the 
vicinity  fine  marble  quarries ;  the  Serra  of  that 
name  is  2200  ft  Shortly  after  leaving  Crato, 
formerly  the  principal  head-quarters  of  the  Por- 
tuguese knights  of  Malta,  the  Seda  is  crossed 
on  an  iron  bridge,  and  we  reach  Abrantis.  This 
city  (pop.  6000),  an  important  military  position, 
rises  on  the  plateau  of  a  hill  clothed  with  olives. 
The  retreat  of  the  French  army  under  Marshal 
Junot  came  here  to  a  close,  and  was  so  admir- 
ably carried  out  as  to  cause  Napoleon  to  reward 
his  general  with  the  dukedom  of  Abrantes. 
The  church  of  San  Francisco  is  well  worth  see- 
ing. Some  trade  in  corn,  brandies,  and  fruit. 
The  soil  is  very  fertile,  and  the  aspect  of  the 
country  very  pleasant  We  are  now  in  Estre- 
madura.  Near  Barquinha,  two  lines  join ;  that 
of  Lisbon  to  Oporto,  and  of  Lisbon  to  Badajoz. 

San  tar  em,  9000  inhabitants.  Inns;  Hotel  da 
Felicia.  The  Roman  Scalabis,  or  Praesidium  Ju- 
lium ;  cap.  of  an  administrate,  so  called  from  St. 
Yrene,  about  whom  there  is  a  local  legend.  The 
city  stands  on  a  knoll,  north  of  the  Tagus,  and 
is  defended  by  an  old  castle.  The  town  is  ill  built ; 
the  streets  narrow  and  winding.  It  was  the 
residence  of  the  kings  of  Portugal  from  Alfonso 
III.  (1254)  to  the  reign  of  Joao  I.  Its  churches 
are  interesting,  but  either  modernised  or  de- 
faced; such  as  S.  Joao  de  Alpor&o,  now  a 
theatre,  but  with  good  romanesque  remains  and 
a  fine  tower,  and  W.  Marigold ;  Church  of 
Graca,  with  a  very  fine  tomb  of  its  founder, 
Count  of  Ourem.  Here  was  buried  P.  A.  Ca- 
bral,  the  discoverer  of  Brazil  The  mosaics  of 
the  Church  of  the  Jesuits  ;  the  13th  century  Sta. 
Maria  de  Marvilla ;  the  Church  of  St.  Francis  ; 
a  convent  of  same  period,  with  a  fine  crucifix  on 
left  of  the  principal  doorway.  Remains  of 
ancient  walls ;  ruins  of  castle  where  the  Cardinal 
King  Don  Henrique  was  born  and  resigned  his 
crown,  and  was  buried. 

Villafranca,  said  to  have  been  built  by 
French  crusaders  after  the  capture  of  Lisbon 
from  the  Moors ;  pop.  4700.  The  line  crosses 
salt  marshes,  pasture  land,  then  farther  on  some 
olives,  and  orchards,  and  Lisbon  is  reached. 

For  omnibuses,  etc.,  see  Directory. 

LISBON. 

Hotels. — 1.  The  Avenida  Palace,  Rua 
do  Principe  ;  close  to  the  Central  Station. 
First  class ;  excellently  fitted  up.  Pension 
about  4000  reis. 

2.  Hotel  Braganca,  Rua  Victor  Cordon, 
with  a  splendid  view  of  the  Tagus.  Very 
good  :  pension  same  as  Avenida.     A  long 


538 


LISBON. 


front  to  the  South  sheltered  from  cold 
winds. 

3.  Durand's  Hotel,  in  the  Rua  das 
Floras,  kept  by  an  English  lady,  is  com- 
fortable, very  respectable  and  quiet. 
The  prices,  however,  everything  good 
being  dear  in  Portugal,  are  about  the 
same  as  at  the  Braganza. 

4.  The  Hotel  Centra^  on  the  Caes 
(quay)  of  Sodre,  close  to  the  river,  is 
large,  conveniently  situated,  and  more 
reasonable.  There  are  still  cheaper 
hotels  in  the  Chiado,  and  several  good 
boarding-houses.  N.B, — Wine  is  not 
included  as  a  rule  in  the  Portuguese 
hotels.  Do  not  neglect  the  'Collares' 
wine,  the  best  of  all,  which  may  be  had 
in  capital  condition. 

Restaurants,  called  (Casas  de  Pasto.' 
Few,  and  not  good.  The  best  is  the 
Restaurant  Club,  Serpa  Pinto,  52  ;  also 
the  Restaurant  Leao  d'Ouro,  Rua  do 
Principe,  69,  the  Cafe  Electrico,  Rua  SSo 
Juliao,  72,  and  the  Montanha  restaurant, 
Traversa  da  Assumpcao. 

Cafes. — The  Cafes  are  not  frequented 
in  Portugal  as  in  Spain,  and  the  traveller 
will  look  in  vain  for  his  accustomed 
place  of  resort.  The  best  are  the  Aurea 
in  the  Rua  Aurea ;  Suisso,  Largo  de 
Camoes,  7,  and  the  'Avenida'  at  the 
Central  Station. 

In  point  of  situation,  Lisbon  stands 
almost  unequalled  in  the  world,  being 
comparable  only,  in  this  respect,  to 
Constantinople,  Naples,  and,  we  may 
add,  Stockholm.  The  traveller,  as  he 
softly  glides  along  the  'auriferiripabeata 
Tagi,'  beholds  at  once  the  city  rising  glori- 
ously from  the  very  banks  of  the  broad, 
glittering  Tagus,  on  a  succession  of  hills, 
the  highest  of  which  is  that  of  Buenos 
Ayres,  with  Cintra's  picturesque  range 
on  the  left,  and  the  coast  studded  with 
cheerful  villas  nestling  amid  orange  groves. 
Her  many  convents,  palaces,  and  public 
buildings  are  neither  lost  or  confusedly 
grouped  in  the  dense  mass  of  the  houses, 
or  masked  by  dips  or  walls,  but  stand 
out  boldly  isolated,  and  in  the  full  view 
of  individual  character.  The  houses  cover 
an  area  of  some  4  miles  E.  to  W.  On 
the  N.  and  from  its  icy  blasts  the  city  is 
sheltered  by  a  range  of  high  hills,  which 


extend  from  the  sea  coast  to  Alhandra  on 
the  Tagus.  The  entrance  or  mouth  of  the 
river  is  defended  by  several  forts  and 
batteries.  The  harbour  is  excellent,  and 
can  shelter  10,000  ships  at  a  time.  The 
quays  'caes*  are  broad,  and  built  on 
a  large  scale,  and  the  largest  men-of-war 
anchor  close  to  the  city.  But  except  for 
the  advantages  of  its  wonderful  situation, 
Lisbon  is  far  from  being  a  handsome  or 
an  interesting  city.  It  is  deficient  in 
those  objects  which  form  the  usual  attrac- 
tions of  Spanish  or  Italian  cities  ;  for  the 
buildings,  though  in  many  cases  hand- 
some, are  mostly  modern,  of  uniform 
style  and  unartistic  appearance.  There 
is  a  complete  lack  of  picture-galleries, 
fine  old  churches,  ornamental  squares,  of 
gardens  or  drives. 

General    Description.  —  Lisbon  — 
Lisbon  Oriental  and  Lisbon  Occidental — 
is  divided  into  four  main  'bairros,'  or 
'seccoes.'     It  contains  355   streets,    12 
squares,  6  theatres,  36  public  fountains 
(chafarizes),  200  churches.    The    oldest 
portion  of   the    city  lies   between   the 
castle  and  the  river,   constituting    the 
district  of  Alfama.    The  streets  are  more 
like  lanes,  and  have  retained  the  charac- 
teristics of  the  Moorish  and  Portuguese 
mediaeval  ages,   being  narrow,  winding, 
steep,  irregular,  and  we  must  add,  very 
dirty  and  ill-paved.    The  more  modern 
portion,  situated  west  of  the  former,  and 
on  lower  ground,  was  rebuilt  after  the 
great  earthquake  of  1775.  The  streets  here 
are  well  paved,  clean,  and  with  handsome 
houses.     Still  further  west  is,  however, 
the  most  fashionable  and  most  frequented 
section,  the  residence  of  the    English, 
foreign  diplomatists,  etc. — viz. ,  thedistrict 
of  Buenos  Ayres.  The  practice  with  Por- 
tuguese of  giving  nicknames,  not  only  to 
persons  but  to  streets,  makes  it  somewhat 
difficult  for  a  stranger  to  find  his  way  by 
reading  the  names  marked  at  the  comers. 
Thus,  few  can  point  out  the  officially  deno- 
minated Rua  Bella  da  Rainha,  but  every 
one  knows  its  more  familiar  appellation, 
RuadaPrata.  The  same  happens  with  Rua 
Nova  da  Princeza,  better  known  as  Rua  dos 
Fanqueiros;  etc.     The  most  important 
streets  are:  Rua  da  Prata (of  silver);  Rdo 
Ouro  (of  gold) ;  R.  do  Chiado ;  R  Augusta, 


LISBON. 


539 


etc.    The  principal  squares  are :  Prcqa  do 
Commercio,  better  known  to  IJnglish  resi- 
dents as  Black  Horse  Square.  It  is  585  feet 
E.  to  W.,  by  5366  N.  to  S.;  and  is  situated 
in  the  lower  and  more    busy  district, 
which  was  rebuilt  after  the  earthquake, 
by  order  of  the  Marquis  of  Pombal.     It 
is  better  known  as  Terreiro  do  Paqa.    It 
is  washed  on  its  south  side  by  the  Tagus, 
from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  broad  quay  ; 
and  on  its  three  other  sides  formed  by 
handsome  buildings — viz.  the  Stock  Ex- 
change (Bolca),  a  large  classical  edifice, 
erected  1775  ;  the  Custom-house,  '  Alfan- 
dega/  the  India  House,  the  magnificent 
naval  arsenal,  the  public  offices,  central 
Telegraph  Office,  and   Town  Hall.     On 
the  north  side,  leading  to  Rua  Augusta, 
stands  a  fine  triumphal  arch ;   in  the 
centre  is  the  fine  bronze  statue  of  King 
Josd  I.,  erected  by  the  Lisbonenses  to  the 
'  rei  sabio,'  who  ordered  the  rebuilding  of 
their  city.      Prcqa  do  Rocio,  officially, 
Praca  de  D.  Pedro.     A  fine  broad  quad- 
rangle, curiously  paved    with   coloured 
stones.      Here  stands  the    Theatre   de 
Donna  Maria,  on  the  site  of  the  Inquisi- 
tion.    The  Church  of  Carmo  is  seen  from 
this  square,  rising  on  a  hill.     The  streets 
are  safe  by  night,  as  well  as  by  day ;  the 
inhabitants  obliging,  and  willing  to  come 
in  aid  to  the  rambling  stranger  ;  and  the 
great  differences  of  level  are  now  smoothed 
over  by  the  inclined  railways  (elevadores), 
of    which   five   lines   traverse  the  city 
in   different   directions.      The   principal 
market-places  are:   Praca  de   Figueira, 
near  the  Rocio,  at  the  top  of  Rua  da 
Prata,  where  fruit,  vegetables,  poultry, 
eggs,  milk,  and  flowers  are  sold  ;  Ribeira 
Nova,    or  fish-market,   etc.     The  great 
modern  feature  of  the  city  is  the  extension 
of   its    public   promenades.    The  most 
popular  of  these  are,  the  Avenida  da 
Liberdade,  stretching    N.W.    from   the 
Central  Station,  the  Largo  do  Principe 
Real,  adjoining  the  Botanical  Gardens 
and  the   beautiful   'Estrella,'   with   the 
English  cemetery  at  its  N.W.  corner. 

History. — Lisbon  is  said  to  be  derived 
from  Olyssipo,  Ulyssipus,  corruptions  of 
Ulysses,  who  is  claimed  by  native  writers 
as  the  founder ;  others  say,  from  a  Phoe- 
nician word,   'alis    ubbo,'    meaning    *a 


delicious  bay.'     Howbeit  Lisbon  and  its 
district  were  of  no  importance  under  the 
Romans,  when  it  was  called,  in  honour  of 
J.  Caesar,  Felicitas  Julia.     During  their 
rule,  Merida  (Emerita)  was  the  capital  of 
Lusitania,  and  the  Suevian  kings  held 
their  court  at  Porto.     It  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Moors  soon  after  the  battle 
of  Guadalete,  from  whom  it  was  finally 
taken,  in  1147,  by  its  first  king,  Alfonso 
Henriques,  after  a  protracted  siege.     In 
the  reign  of  Joao  I. ,  it  became  the  capital 
of  the  kingdom,  and  was  raised,  1394,  to 
the  rank  of  an  archbishopric.     There  is 
little  doubt,  we  believe,  that  had  Philip 
of  Spain  raised  this  sea-capital  to  be  the 
metropolis  of  his  monarchy,  the  secession 
would  not  have  taken  place ;  and  what 
with  Barcelona  and  Cadiz  as  emporiums 
of  trade  with  the  east,  and  the  situation 
of  Lisbon  with  respect  to  the  trade  with 
America,  it  is  difficult  to  say  to  what 
extent  the  prosperity  of  the  Peninsula 
would  have  been  carried.     At  the  very 
time  Lisbon  had  reached  the  acme  of  its 
splendour  and  commercial  importance, 
the  great  earthquake — more  important 
than  those  which  preceded  it,  and,  let  us 
hope,  the  last  of  those  with  which  geolo- 
gists still  threaten  the  city — took  place, 
1755,  causing  the  death  of  80,000  inhabit- 
ants, and  the  destruction  of  property  to 
the  amount  of  twenty  millions  sterling ; 
shattering  to  pieces  splendid  edifices  and 
untold  treasures  of  art.     From  so  terrible 
and  sweeping  a  calamity,  Lisbon  has  not 
as  yet  completely  recovered. 

Climate. — The  climate  is  very  tem- 
perate, but  variable,  and  not  suited  to 
invalids  ;  but  it  is  beneficial  to  convales- 
cents, and  most  weak  constitutions.  The 
mean  annual  temperature  is  61°  ;  winter, 
52°  ;  spring,  60  j°  ;  summer,  70  J  °  ;  and 
autumn,  59 £°.  The  mean  annual  range 
is  60°,  the  mean  extremes  being  34° 
and  94°;  and  the  mean  daily  range, 
during  the  twenty-four  hours,  15°.  It  is 
dry  and  bracing.  The  prevalent  wind 
during  nine  months  comes  from  the  N. ; 
during  the  three  remaining  months,  the 
S.W.  is  the  most  frequent.  The  middle 
of  summer  is  a  trying  season,  on  account 
of  the  extreme  differences  of  temperature 
between    day  and    night,    during   that 


540 


LISBON. 


season.  Frost  and  snow  are  very  rare ; 
high  wiuds  not  uncommon;  but  winter 
usually  mild  and  agreeable.  The  mor- 
tality is  reckoned  at  6765  for  the  mean 
annual  range.  November  and  December 
are  very  rainy.  The  spring  begins  at  a 
very  early  season,  and  is  beautiful. 

Sights. — Palaces :  das  Necesidades, 
Ajuda ;  Churches :  Cathedral,  San  Vicente, 
etc.  Graca,  etc. ;  Aqueduct  of  Aguas  Livres. 

The  Palace  das  Necesidades,  the 
residence  of  the  kings  of  Portugal,  stands 
on  a  hill,  and  commands  a  fine  and  ex- 
tensive view.  It  was  built  near  the  site 
of  a  hermitage,  under  the  invocation  of 
Our  Lady  '  of  Wants,'  which  was  rebuilt 
into  a  royal  chapel.  It  is  itself  of  no 
architectural  merit,  but  contains  a  tine 
collection  of  works  of  art  and  vertu,  got 
together  by  K.  Doni  Fernando,  besides  a 
library  full  of  precious  MSS.  The  gar- 
dens are  full  of  aviaries,  exotics,  and 
fountains.  The  present  king,  however, 
ordinarily  inhabits  the  Palace  da  Ajuda, 
a  very  large  but  unfinished  building, 
erected  by  King  Joao  VI.  The  state 
apartments  are  spacious,  and  contain  some 
pictures  by  Portuguese  artists,  and  allegori- 
cal statues  of  no  merit  The  Palace  de 
Belem  contains  a  fine  suite  of  apartments. 
This  royal,  Belem,  residence,  so  called 
from  its  celebrated  convent  church  (for  de- 
scription of  which  see  next  page)  was  ori- 
ginally a  Moorish  stronghold.  The  State 
carriages  (51),  which  may  be  seen  with- 
out an  order  in  the  Calcada  da  Ajuda, 
Belem,  are  most  quaint  and  interesting. 
Palace  qfBemposta,  a  large  white- washed 
building,  faced  with  stone,  on  north  side 
of  Lisbon,  built  by  Catherine  of  Portugal, 
widow  of  Charles  II.  of  England,  towards 
the  end  of  17th  century.  Uninteresting, 
and  now  turned  into  a  military  college. 

Cfit  Gattjeural,  called  La  Se  (Sedes,  See), 
rises  on  high  ground,  below  the  Castle  of 
St.  George,  and  not  far  from  it.  It  was 
built  on  the  site,  and  probably  with  the 
ruins,  of  a  mosque,  by  Alfonso  Henriques,  in 
1147 ;  was  considerably  injured  by  several 
earthquakes,  partly  rebuilt  and  modern- 
ised after  that  of  1755.  Of  the  Gothic 
period  it  has  retained  the  principal  front, 
the  choir,  and  apsidal  chapels.  It  is  a 
plain   building    on  the  whole,   with    a 


gloomy  interior,  gingerbread  rococo  gild 
ing  here  and  there,  and  some  fine  railings 
It  contains  a  mausoleum  of  Affonso  IV.t 
who  restored  it  1344 ;  the  relics  of  San 
Vicente,  patron  saint  of  Lisbon;  and  a 
miraculous  image.  Around  the  building 
may  be  seen  vestiges  of  the  great  earth- 
quake. 

Church  San  Vicente  de  F6rat  so  called 
because  it  was  built  'outside'  the  city 
walls  by  Affonso  Henriques;  but  was 
knocked  down,  and  the  present  church 
erected,  by  Philip  II.,  1582.  The  west 
front  is  100  feet  in  breadth,  and  147  to 
the  summit  of  the  tower.  It  is  one  of 
the  finest  churches  here.  N.B. — Do  not 
fail  to  see  here  the  Burial  Place  of  the 
Kings  of  Braganza. 

Church  Nossa  Senhora  da  Graca. — A 
cruciform  conventual  church,  without 
arches;  dates  1556,  and  contains  the  cele- 
brated image  of  that  Virgin,  very  gaudily 
dressed,  holding  a  sword,  and  surrounded 
by  numberless  ex-votos.  The  domic  ba- 
silica of  EstreUa,  or  Coracao  de  Jesus,  is 
a  reduced  copy  of  St.  Peter's  of  Rome, 
erected  1779  by  Queen  D.  Maria  I.  It 
is  said  to  have  cost  16  million  cruzados. 
It  is  over-ornamented,  but  the  marbles  are 
very  fine  and  varied,  and  the  view  from 
the  dome  one  of  the  grandest  in  Lisbon. 
San  Rogue  contains  a  fine  chapel,  built  in 
Rome  by  order  of  Joaz  V.,  packed  up  and 
sent  here,  where  it  was  erected  anew.  It 
is  said  to  have  cost  14  millions  of  cru- 
zados, and  is  most  remarkable  for  the 
display  of  its  magnificent  Roman  mosaics, 
with  subjects  of  paintings  by  Raphael,  M. 
Angelo,  S.  Reni.  The  marbles  are  also 
very  beautiful ;  the  pilasters  are  formed 
of  porphyry,  lapis-lazuli,  verd-antique, 
and  other  precious  marbles.  We  may 
also  mention  very  briefly,  Loretto,  the 
most  fashionable  church  in  Lisbon  ;  the 
ruinous  but  interesting  Canno,  built  1389, 
160  ft  long,  whose  fine  tower,  and  the 
remains  of  its  W.  front  and  walls,  should 
be  noticed  ;  Na.  Sa.  das  Merces,  whose 
choir  contains  the  finest  picture  of  Gran 
Vasco.  There  is  also  an  English  nun- 
nery, the  Brigittine  Convent.  The  nuns 
are  successors  of  those  who  were  expelled 
from  Sion  House,  the  seat  of  the  Dukes 
of  Northumberland,  at  the  suppression  oi 


LISBON. 


541 


convents ;  there  is  also  an  English  college 
for  the  education  of  Roman  Catholics  in- 
tended for  the  priesthood.  The  cemeteries 
are  devoid  of  any  peculiarity,  save  the  name 
of  the  largest,  which  is '  Os  Prazeres '  (plea- 
sure-land) ;  but  was  so  called  from  being 
the  site  of  the  grounds  and  convent  under 
the  invocation  of  0.  L.  *  dos  Prazeres.' 

The  Mosteiro  de  Belem,  or  Jeronymos 
(the  name  by  which  it  is  better  known), 
is  an  appanage  of  the  Belem  palace.  This 
very  fine  church  was  built  by  King  Manoel 
(1500),  on  the  site  where  Vasco  deGama 
embarked,  July  8,  1497,  on  his  great 
journey  of  discovery,  and  on  the  site  also 
of  a  small  heremitical  chapel,  where  that 
great  discoverer  and  his  companions  passed 
the  night  previous  to  their  departure.  It 
is  Gothic  in  its  style,  very  richly  deco- 
rated, constructed  on  piles  of  pine-wood, 
and  the  stone  warm  and  richly  tinted. 
Though  commenced  in  1500,  a  period  of 
Gothic  decline,  it  was  not  concluded  till 
long  after  the  Cinquecento  had  intro- 
duced its  worst  and  latter  features.  The 
S.  portal  is  most  elaborately  decorated 
with  an  exuberance  of  statue,  niche-work, 
and  pinnacles.  In  the  apex  is  the  statue 
of  our  Lady  of  Kings,  and  above  the  cen- 
tral shaft,  dividing  the  double  doorway, 
stands  the  effigy  of  Prince  Don  Henrique, 
the  great  promoter  of  discoveries,  and  one 
of  the  most  enlightened  princes  that  ever 
lived.  The  nave  and  transept  are  of  the 
latest  Flamboyant ;  but,  though  generally 
effective,  its  details  will  fail  to  satisfy  the 
real  artist.  There  are,  doubtless,  some 
exquisite  bits  of  architectural  carving; 
but  they  are  lost,  and  buried,  so  to  say, 
amid  that  profusion  of  gorgeous  detailing 
and  decorative  'modistry.'  Observe,  how- 
ever, the  eastern  arches  of  the  gallery, 
supporting  the  upper  portion  of  the  choir, 
which  latter  is  classical ;  the  singular  plan 
of  the  transepts  ;  the  tombs  of  D.  Manoel 
the  fortunate,  and  his  queen  Donna 
Maria,  on  the  north  side  ;  and  on  the  south 
those  of  Joao  III.  and  his  queen  Ca- 
therine. The  cloisters  are  among  the 
finest  in  Portugal,  richly  decorated  and 
striking.  They  belong  to  the  late  Gothic 
style.  Observe,  in  the  church,  the  new 
tombs  (1880)  of  Camoens  and  Vasco  de 
Gama ;  also,  behind  the  high  altar  the 


I  resting-place  of  Catherine  of  Braganza, 
wife  of  Charles  II.  of  England. 

Aqueduct  of  Aguas  Livres. — A 
magnificent  Roman-built  work,  erected 
1729,  by  King  Joao  V.,  to  supply  Lisbon 
with  water.  The  works  were  conducted 
under  the  direction  of  Manoel  Maio,  and 
were  finished  in  twenty  years.  The  water 
is  conveyed  from  a  spot  three  leagues 
N.  W.  from  Lisbon,  to  a  reservoir  in  the 
city,  near  Praca  do  Rato.  A  large  square 
tower  contains  a  hall,  with  an  enormous 
tank  in  the  centre.  The  view  from  the 
top  of  it  is  very  extensive.  Descend  to 
the  aqueduct;  which  is  8  feet  high,  5  feet 
broad,  and  consists  of  127  stone  arches, 
the  highest  of  which  is  263  feet. 

These,  with  the  handsome  Cortes,  Mint 
(Casa  de  Moeda),  on  the  banks   of  the 
Tagusj    the  two-storeyed  huge  Custom- 
House,  Alfandega  Grande;  the  Arsenal 
do  Exercito,  or  Fundicao,  containing  the 
cannon-foundry  and  a  fine  collection  of 
weapons    and    engines ;    and  the  well- 
organised  Arsenal  de  Marinha,  constitute 
the  most  noteworthy  public  buildings  in 
Lisbon.     There  are,  besides,  several  well- 
managed  hospitals  (S.  Josi,  Rilhefalles, 
Casa  Pia,  S.  Casa  de  Misericordia),  and 
the  like,  which  do  not  interest  the  general 
tourist.     Artists  and  literati  are  not  to 
expect  much  from  the  Museo  National 
das  Bellas  Artes,   Rua   Vinte    Quatro, 
located  in  the  old    Casa  das  Janellas 
Verdes.     The  ground  floor  contains  some 
unimportant  pictures  and  plaster  casts  : 
on    the    first    floor,   Room    A    contains 
modern  pictures,  Room  C  various  schools, 
Room  E  some  good  Zurbarans,  Teniers, 
de  Heens,  Coello,  etc.     Rooms  F,  G  and 
H,  various  Schools  and  copies  Room  K 
and  side  room,  sculptures,  antiquities  and 
other  art  objects.  The  Bibliotheca  Publica, 
open   9   to   3,  has   a  fair  collection  of 
400,000  vols.,    7500   MSS.,   and    some 
good  coins  ;  the  Bibliotheca  da  Acadeinia 
about  150,000  vols. ;  the  Academia  Real 
das  Sciencias  a  fair  ethnographical,  geo- 
logical  and  prehistoric   collection  ;   the 
Archivo  General  do  Reino,  in  the  Torre 
do  Bombo,  some  valuable  historical  docu- 
ments.    Botanists  should  on  no  account 
fail  to  visit  the  splendid  Botanical  Gardens 
(free)  adjoining  the  Polytechnic  Institute, 


642 


LISBON  — ENVIRONS. 


with  the  wonderful  tropical  and  sub- 
tropical plants  ;  also  the  gardens  of  the 
Ajuda  Palace  (fee,  100  reis). 

Public  Amusements. — There  are 
six  theatres — San  Carlos,  Italian  Opera, 
open  only  daring  winter :  performances 
on  Sundays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays — 
120  boxes  (called  camarotes),  in  five  tiers 
(orders).  Theatre  de  Dona  Maria,  in 
the  north  end  of  the  Rocio  ;  a  very  pretty 
gala:  Portuguese  dramas  and  operas. 
Trinidade:  small,  much  frequented ;  vau- 
devilles and  farces — the  best  actors  in 
Lisbon.  During  the  summer  there  are 
several  open-air  entertainments.  There 
are,  besides,  a  middling  bull-ring,  where 
bull-fights  take  place,  very  inferior  to 
those  in  Spain;  horse  circuses,  etc. 

ENVIRONS. 

The  environs  of  Lisbon  abound  in 
beautiful  scenery.  The  finest  views  are 
from  the  Church  of  N.  S.  da  Monte  and 
from  Almada.  Steamer  in  15  min.  to 
Cacilbas :  short  walk  up  to  the  fortress 
of  Almada.  The  tourist  will  not  fail, 
too,  to  visit  Ointra  and  Mafra,  the 
principal  excursions  around  the  capital. 

Cintra,  5500  inhabitants,  is  distant 
fourteen  miles  from  Lisbon,  whence  it 
is  reached,   in  one   hour,    by  frequent 
trains  from  the  New  Central  Station  or 
from  the  A  lcantara  Station.  Many  tourists,  I 
however,   will  prefer  to  ride  or  drive. 
A  two-horse   carriage  costs   4500    reis, 
to    Cintra    and    back.       Carnages    of; 
Cia.    Lisbonense,    Largo  de    S.    Roque* 
— to   Mafra  and   back,    two   days,   for 
two  persons,    12,000   reis.      The  road 
is    very    pretty.       On  leaving  Lisbon, 
through    the    suburb    of    'Sete    Rios/ 
the    tourist    passes    by    several    hand- 
some villas:    the  first  that  of  Laran- 
jeiras  (orange-grove),  is  the  property  of 
Conde  do  Parrobo ;  the  grounds  are  well 
laid  out,  and  ornamented  with  cascades, 
ponds,  fountains,  kiosks,  pavilions,   sta- 
tuary, etc. — to  visit  which,  apply  at  the 
owner's  house,   in  Largo  do  Baroe"   de 
Quintella.     Two  roads  branch  at  Sete 
Rios,  one  leading  to  Campolide  and  Bem- 
fica,  and  the  other  to  Cintra,  Collares,  and 
Mafra,    which    we    shall  follow.      The 
Palace  of  Ramalhoe  comes  in  view.     It 


was  once  the  residence  and  the  place  of 
confinement  of  the  Empress-queen,  Car- 
lotta  Joaquinha,  wife  of  Joao  VI.,  who  • 
refused  to  swear  to  the  constitution  oi 
1822.  Two  or  three  small  hamlets  are 
crossed,  a  few  uninteresting  villas  are 
passed,  and  Ciutra  comes  fairly  in  view. 
The  village  stands  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Tagus,  on  the  edge  of  the  rocky  Serra  de 
Cintra,  whose  altitude  varies  between 
1800  and  3000  feet.  There  are  two  or 
three  fair  hotels :  The  Nuhez,  the  Lis- 
bonense, and  Mrs.  Lawrence's,  the  latter 
kept  by  an  English  landlady.  There 
are  also  several  good  lodging-houses. 
Cintra  is  the  summer  residence  of  the 
upper  classes  of  Lisbon,  and  a  great 
favourite  with  English  residents,  who 
have  built  several  of  the  prettiest  villas. 
It  is  very  gay  and  pleasant  during  the 
season ;  spring  being  the  best  time  of  the 
year  to  make  an  excursion.  The  chief 
objects  of  interest  are  the  Palace,  the 
Penha  Convent,  Moorish  Castle,  etc. ;  hut 
the  scenery  itself  is  the  principal  attrac- 
tion.    Lord  Byron  exclaims : 

Lo  !  Cintra's  glorious  Eden  intervenes, 
In  variegated  maze  of  mount  and  glen ; 
Ah,  me  1  what  hand  can  pencil  guide,  or  pen, 
To  follow  half  on  which  the  eye  dilates  I 

Southey  declares  it  to  be '  the  most  blessed 
spot  in  the  habitable  world  1 '  The  moun- 
tains, the  ancients'  Montes  Lunse,  lie  N.E. 
and  S.  E.,  terminating  in  the  Cape  de 
Rocca.  On  the  south  side  their  aspect  is 
not  pleasing ;  and  the  country  itself,  bare, 
parched-up,  and  arid,  affords  a  wild,  drear}' 
prospect,  very  forcibly  contrasting  with 
that  on  the  north  side. 

The  Palace,  to  see  which  permission 
should  be  obtained  from  the  superintend- 
ent, Almocharife,  is  a  medley  of  Moorish 
and  Christian  architecture,  having  once 
been  the  Alhambra  of  the  Moorish  kings 
of  Lisbon,  and  subsequently  continued  to 
be  the  favourite  summer  resort  of  its 
Christian  monarchs.  It  was,  however, 
mostly  rebuilt  by  King  Joao  I.,  and  com- 
pleted by  Don  ManoeL  Don  Sebastian 
lived  here,  and  left  it  to  go  to  Africa ;  and 
Don  Alfonso  VL  was  confined  within  a 
very  narrow  room.  Its  fountains,  gar- 
dens, terraces,  artesonado  ceilings  and 
agimez  or  Moorish  windows,  and  rich 


LISBON  —  ENVIRONS. 


543 


arabesque  tracory-vork,  mingle  not  in- 
harmoniously  with  features  common  to  an 
architecture  so  different  as  a  whole,  yet 
similar  in  many  details.  Among  other 
halls,  the  Sala  das  Pegas,  the  magpie's 
saloon,  is  remarkable,  and  so  called  from 
being  painted  all  over  with  magpies  hold- 
ing each  a  white  rose,  the  emblem  of 
innocence ;  and  in  their  beak  a  legend, 
with  the  words  cPor  Bern,'  'All  Fair,' 
'  Pour  le  bon  motif,'  being  allusive  to  the 
reply  which  King  Joiio  I.  gave  to  his 
queen,  the  English  Princess  Philippa  of 
Lancaster,  on  being  discovered  in  the  act 
of  kissing  one  of  her  maids  of  honour ; 
upon  which,  moreover,  that  re  galantuomo 
ordered  the  present  painting,  by  way  of 
out-satarising  satire.  Another  hall,  '  Sala 
dos  Cervos,'  is  also  interesting,  from  the 
arms  of  seventy-four  of  the  Portuguese 
nobility  being  painted  on  the  circular 
roof,  each  dependent  from  a  stag's  (cervo) 
head,  those  of  the  houses  of  Tavora  and 
Aveiro  being  erased,  for  the  part  they  took 
in  the  attempt  against  the  life  of  King 
Jos£  I.  There  is  also  a  fine  marble 
chimney,  sculptured  by  Michael  Angelo, 
and  the  gift  of  Pope  Leo  X.  to  King 
Manoel. 

Pena  Palace. — Donkeys  and  a  guide 
(400  reis)  are  hired  to  ascend  the  granite 
hill,  on  the  summit  of  which  rises  this,  a 
former  hieronymite  convent,  repaired  and 
enlarged  by  King  D.  Fernando,  at  the 
suppression  of  convents.  Its  appearance 
is  that  of  a  Gothic  castle,  though  retaining 
partly  the  character  of  its  former  monastic 
distinction.  In  the  chapel  may  be  seen 
a  fine  transparent  marble  retablo,  with 
well-carved  scenes  from  the  New  Testa- 
ment by  an  Italian  artist.  The  grounds 
and  gardens  are  very  charming,  and  the 
view  from  the  highest  point  striking  and 
almost  boundless. 

Moorish  Castle. — Proceed  next  to 
the  summit  west  of  latter,  which  com- 
mands Cintra  and  its  vicinity.  Half-way 
are  some  Moorish  ruins,  with  a  bath  50 
feet  long,  17  feet  broad,  and  vaulted. 
The  grounds  are  extensive,  and  tastefully 
improved.  The  Cork  Convent  was  found- 
ed by  D.  Joao  de  Castro.  It  consists  of 
twenty  cells  built  in  the  rock,  and  lined 
with  cork  to  keep  out  the  damp,  and  is 


still  kept  in  good  order,  though  deserted. 
The  recess  is  shown  which  was  inhabited 
by  the  celebrated  hermit  Honorius, 
about  1598,  at  the  age  of  ninety-five, 
who  retired  here  at  the  age  of  sixty-five, 
to  expiate  a  temptation  which  he  avoided 

Penha  Verde. — This  beautiful  quinta 
was  once  the  residence  of  D.  Joao  de 
Castro,  the  celebrated  Portuguese  naviga- 
tor, and  Viceroy  of  Indies.  It  is  now  the 
property  of  Sir  Francis  Cook.  The 
grounds  are  everything  that  climate,  care, 
and  taste  can  make  them.  The  chapel, 
built  1542  by  that  great  Portuguese  hero 
on  his  return  from  the  Indies,  contains 
his  heart. 

Monserrate. — Do  not  fail  to  visit  this, 
the  residence  of  Sir  F.  Cook.  The  house 
is  most  interesting,  moreover  a  museum 
of  curiosities,  and  the  gardens  exquisite. 
Plants  from  every  part  of  the  world 
flourish  here,  in  the  richest  variety,  in 
the  open  air.  It  is  twenty  minutes'  walk 
beyond  the  Penha  Verde.  English  tra- 
vellers are  admitted  to  the  grounds  by 
signing  their  names  in  a  book  at  the  en- 
trance. Opposite  the  gate  may  be 
noticed  a  mountain  road,  which  leads  (an 
hour's  walk),  to  an  old  Franciscan  Convent, 
known  as  the  Cork  Convent.  The  cells 
are  lined  with  cork  to  keep  out  the  damp. 

An  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  Rock 
of  Lisbon  ;  also  to  the  beautiful  valley  of 
Varzea  and  the  town  and  wine-growing 
district  of  Collares,  1  league  from  Cintra, 
on  the  slopes  of  whose  hills  it  is  situated  ; 
and  to  the  lake  or  '  Tanque '  of  Varzea  ; 
to  the  chestnut  forest  of  Mata.  The  best 
way  to  make  these  excursions  is  on  don- 
keys. 2  testoes,  or  lid.,  are  charged  for 
a  donkey,  for  the  whole  afternoon,  and  4 
testoes  for  the  donkey-boy ;  but  at  the 
hotel  these  charges  are  dearer.  To  the 
Rock  of  Lisbon  an  excursion  may  be  also 
made,  for  the  view  exclusively. 

Mafra. — Two  trains  daily  in  if  hrs. 
Also  Cintra  to  Mafra  by  road,  15  m.,  in 
2£  hrs.  by  carriage  ;  5000r.  going  and 
returning.  The  huge  palace — convent — 
barrack  is  a  poor  imitation  of  the 
Escorial,  built  by  King  D.  Joao  V., 
after  the  designs  of  the  German  (?) 
architect  Ludovicl,  1717,  thirteen  years 


&44 


LISBON — ENVIRONS. 


being  employed  in  its  construction, 
which  cost  upwards  of  19  millions  of 
crowns  (coroes).  The  Church  was  con- 
secrated in  1730.  The  building  forms 
a  parallelogram,  770  feet  N.  to  S. 
The  queen's  apartments  are  on  the  S. ; 
those  of  the  king  look  towards  the  N. 
In  the  centre  is  the  church ;  the  palace 
on  one  side,  and  the  convent  on  the 
other.  The  palace  is  four  storeys  high, 
and  of  the  classical  order.  The  building 
is  said  to  contain  866  rooms,  5000  doors, 
and  9  courts ;  and  the  roof  would  hold 
10,000  soldiers  at  a  time.  ^The  interior 
is,  however,  as  great  a  failure  as  copies 
always  are.  The  library,  300  feet  in 
length,  has  a  fine  marble  pavement,  and 
book-cases  of  beautiful  wood :  30,000 
volumes.  The  belfry  and  clocks  are  one 
of  the  curiosities  in  the  palace — the 
quantity  of  metal  used  for  bells,  etc., 
amounting  to  14,500  arrobes  for  each 
tower.  The  church  is  the  richest  and 
most  striking  portion  of  the  whole  ;  and 
seldom,  if  ever,  has  a  grander  display  and 
greater  variety  of  precious  marbles  been 
seen.  The  magnificence  of  pavements, 
domes,  walls,  etc.,  owing  to  this  material, 
baffles  all  description. 

In  the  Tapada  Real,  close  by,  is  a 
model  farm,  established  by  the  late 
queen,  carried  on  with  English  imple- 
ments, and  prosperous. 

From  Mafra,  through  Guadil  and 
Azueira,  military  tourists  may  reach 
Torres  Vedras,  a  town  of  5000  inhabit- 
ants, with  a  poor  inn.  It  is  exclusively 
interesting  on  account  of  the  celebrated 
lines  of  fortifications  which,  in  1810,  were 
established  by  the  Duke  of  Wellington. 
They  extended  40  miles — from  Alhandra, 
on  the  Tagus,  to  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Zizandre — and  consisted  of  130  forts, 
redoubts,  and  batteries.  They  are  among 
the  finest  examples  of  military  engineer- 
ing ;  and  their  execution  and  design  were 
more  creditable  than  the  gain  of  many  a 
battle,  often  the  result  of  chance. 

We  must  also  mention,  around  Lisbon, 
the  Torre  de  Belem,  distant  1  league  west 
from  Torreiro  do  Paco.  It  was  projected 
by  King  Joao  II.,  and  erected  in  the 
reign  of  ManoeL  It  was  constructed  in 
the  very  bed  of  the  river,  but  is  now  con- 


nected with  the  shore  by  a  sandy  strip  o! 
land,  formed  by  the  waters.  It  is  most 
picturesque,  and  deserves  a  visit :  admis- 
sion easily  procured.  It  is  of  no  military 
importance,  but  interesting  for  its  situa- 
tion, architecture,  and  the  ornamentation 
on  its  walls ;  the  device  more  usually 
occurring  being  carved  crosses  of  Christ, 
of  which  order  (established  by  King  Diniz, 
to  succeed  that  of  the  Templars)  the  king 
was  grand-master.  The  view  from  the 
top  is  very  fine.  The  Sala  Regia  is  a 
large  room  with  an  elliptic  roof,  and 
remarkable  for  its  echo:  two  persons 
on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  room  can 
hear  the  voices  of  each  other,  whilst  they 
are  inaudible  to  any  other  standing  be- 
tween them.  The  Castle  of  SL  George 
is  the  citadel  of  Lisbon,  which  it  com- 
mands, from  the  height  on  which  it  is 
standing.  On  the  north  is  the  gate- 
way of  Memmoniz,  named  after  the 
gallant  soldier  of  that  name,  who  lost 
his  life  in  endeavouring  'facilitar  as 
hostes  de  Affonso  Henriques,  a  entrada 
de  Cidade.'  The  grounds  and  castle 
formed  part  of  the  former  Moorish  town. 
Within  are  barracks,  prisons,  batteries, 
etc.  We  may  also  mention  Queluz,  a 
palace  built  by  Pedro  III.,  of  no  interest 
The  bed  is  shown  on  which  that  king 
expired :  it  is  placed  in  the  room  de 
Don  Quixote,  so  called  from  the  panels 
with  scenes  from  that  popular  hero's  life. 
In  the  oratory  is  a  monolithic  pillar  found 
at  Herculaneum.  The  gardens,  designed 
after  those  of  Marly,  near  Paris,  are 
worth  visiting.  Bemfica  is  the  prettiest 
suburb  of  the  capital,  and  contains  up- 
wards of  3000  inhabitants.  It  is  charm- 
ingly situated,  and  contains  several  pretty 
villas  and  gardens,  and  a  manufactory, 
once  a  fine  Dominican  convent,  the  resi- 
dence and  burial-place  of  King  Luiz  de 
Sousa. 

Directory.— H.B.M.  Minister,  Sir  H. 
MacDonell,  K.C.M.G.,  C.B.  ;  Sec.  of 
Legation,  C.  Conway  Thornton  ;  Consul, 
F.  H.  Cowper,  Esq.,  Hotel  Durand. 
U.S.A.  Consul,  Mr.  Wilbor.  Spanish 
Consul,  Juan  de  Castro,  Rua  de 
San  Francisco.  Church  of  England 
Service  —  Chaplain,  Canon  T.  6. 
P.     Pope.       Service    twice    on    Sun- 


OOIMBRA. 


545 


days.  A  Protestant  cemetery.  Bankers, 
— P.  Gomes  da  Silva,  Rua  da  Magdalena 
83  ;  London  and  Brazilian  Bank  Ld., 
Rua  dos  Capellistas  96.  Booksellers. — 
M.  Lewtas  (English  works),  26  Rua  Nova 
do  Carmo  (est.  1855) ;  Silva  (French), 
Rua  Aurea  115 ;  Gomez,  Rua  Chiado  72 ; 
Ferin,  Rua  Nova  do  Almada.  Baths. — 
Natural  warm  baths,  beneficial  in  rheu- 
matic affections,  Alcacarias,  in  Largo  do 
Trigo ;  cold,  tepid,  etc. ,  Rua  Nova  de 
S.  Domingos.  There  is  some  excellent 
sea-bathing  on  the  beach  outside  the 
river,  between  Belem  and  Paco  d'Arcos. 
There  are  also  good  sands  at  Cascaes,  etc. , 
but  more  exposed  to  the  Atlantic  billows. 

Money  Changers. — Fonseca,  Rua  Ar- 
senal ;  Silva,  Rua  Aurea. 

Doctors. — Curry  Cabral,  R.  Eduardo 
Coelho,  1 ;  Lahmayer,  R.  Santissima  Trini- 
dade  56  (speak  English).  There  is  also 
an  English  surgeon  at  the  Hospital 
Inglez. 

Chemists. — Avellar,  Rua  Augusta  225. 
Andrade  y  Irmao,  Rua  do  Aleghim. 
English  prescriptions  should  be  marked 
'British  pharmacopoeia,'  as  the  Portu- 
guese weights  differ. 

Post  Office.  —  Praca  do  Commercio. 
Letters  for  the  North  can  be  posted  up 
to  6  p.m.,  or  at  most  pillar-boxes  up 
to  5  p.m.  Letters  for  England,  etc., 
should  be  inscribed  *  Via  Franca.' 

Telegraph  Office. — Praca  do  Commer- 
cio.    (See  information  upon  p.  533). 

Conveyances.  —  Cab  (trens)  stands  in 
the  principal  squares.  The  tariff  is  as 
follows : — 


In  the  Old  Town. 


Per  drive  (J>or  corrida) 
Per  hour  (as  horas) 


i-2  pers. 

400  rs. 
600  „ 


Two  hours 1200  „ 

Three  hours .     .     .    .     .      1500  „ 
Four  hours 1800  ,, 


To  the  Suburbs. 


Per  drive  (for  corrida) 
Per  hour  (os  horas)  .    . 
Two  hours    .... 
Three  hours .... 
Four  hours  .... 


1-2  pers. 

6od  rs. 
1  coo  „ 
1200  ,, 
1500  „ 
x8oo  ,, 


3*4  Pers. 

500  rs. 

700  „ 
1400  „ 
1800  ,, 
2200  ,, 


3-4  pers. 

700  rs. 
1200  „ 
1400  „ 
1800  ,, 
2200  ,, 


Reading-rooms,  Clubs. — The  Club  Por- 
tuguese, Rua  Nova  do  Almada;  admit- 
tance by  a  member.  The  Gremio  Litter- 
ario,  same  conditions.  The  Turf  Club, 
Rua  Garrett.  The  Associ£c4o  Commer- 
cial, Praca  do  Commercio  ;  English  and 
French  papers.  The  official  gazette  is 
the  *  Diario  do  Governo. '  A  new  English 
club  has  been  opened  in  the  Largo  do 
Conde  Barao. 

Boats. — To  go  or  come  from  steamers 
in  the  bay,  500  reis.  Commissioners,  or 
gallegos,,are  paid  R.200  for  a  course. 

Books  of  Reference. — 

x.  A  useful  '  Itinerario  Lisbonense.' 

2.  '  Nova  Guia  do  Viajante  em  Lisboa.'    By 
Bordalo  ;  Rua  Augusta. 

3.  'A  Guide  to  Lisbon  and  its  Environs. 
By  J.  A.  de  Macedo. 

4.  '  Mafra  et  Cintra"  (1873). 

5.  '  Una  Semana  en  Lisboa '  (1873). 

6.  'Lisboa  em  quartro  horas;'  'Lisboa  em 
quartro  dias '  (1887). 


COIMBRA. 


Capital  of  an  administracoe—  Episcopal 
see — the  third  next  city,  but  the  fourth 
as  to  population,  which  is  about  20,000 
inhabitants. 

Means  of  Access  —  Routes.  —  xst,    From 
Idsbon. — A .  by  rail  direct — by  the  Lisbon  to 

2 


Badajoz  line,  as  far  as  the  entroncamento,  or 
junction— 106  kil.:  fares,  1st  cL,  2130 r.;  2dcl., 
1660  r.  (3d  cl.) ;  2J  hrs.  There  take  up  the 
Oporto  line,  to  Coimbra— 1  x  1  kil. :  xst  cL,  2200  r. ; 
time,  3  hrs.;  total,  5}  hrs.  from  Lisbon  to 
Coimbra.  N.B. — This  is  the  speediest  and 
easiest  plan  to  reach  the  latter;  but  those  is 

N 


546 


OOIMBRA — ROUTES. 


quest  of  scenery,  and  to  whom  such  advantages 
are  secondary,  will,  of  course,  do  better  to  fol- 
low route  B. 

Route  A  .—The  first  station  after  leaving  the 
junction  is  that  of  Thomar,  5000  inhabitants. 
/«**.— De  Campeas ;  Hosp.  de  Prista.  This 
town,  the  ancient  Concordia,  and  near  the 
site  of  Nabantia,  stands  picturesquely  on 
the  Nabafl.  It  is  one  of  the  few  interest- 
ing towns  in  Portugal,  with  respect  to  its 
ecclesiology.  Its  principal  sights  are  —  on 
the  hill  which  rises  west,  the  large  Convent 
of  the  Order  of  Christ,  the  Bridge,  Churches  of 
S.  John,  etc. 

The  Convent. — It  is  the  most  remarkable  one 
in  the  kingdom,  after  that  of  Batalha,  and  was 
once  considered  among  the  finest  in  Europe. 
The  Templars,  who  entered  Portugal  under 
the  reign  of  Count  Affonso  Henriques,  settled 
some  time  afterwards  at  Thomar,  erected  a 
strong  castle,  and  successfully  repelled  the 
numerous  army  of  Moors  which  besieged  the 
city  in  119a  At  the  suppression  of  that  order, 
King  Dink  instituted  that  of  Christ  (1319), 
which  succeeded  to  the  former's  property,  and 
whose  principal  seat  was  finally  fixed  at  Coim- 
bra,  in  1449.  Before  entering,  notice,  close  to 
the  walls,  the  remains  of  Chapel  of  Sta.  Cate- 
rina ;  and  also  a  finely  sculptured  tomb  and 
effigy  of  a  knight  The  Templars'  Castle  lies 
a  little  to  S.  B.,  and  now  belongs  to  Count 
Thomar,  better  known  as  Costa  CabraL  The 
convent  consists  of  nine  cloisters.  The  aque- 
duct, close  by,  was  commenced  by  Philip  II.; 
finished  by  Philip  III.,  in  16x3.  The  church  is 
entered  by  a  fine  S.  door,  decorated  with 
statues  of  St.  Mary,  and  saints ;  and  the  orna- 
mentation is  of  the  Gothic  decline — very  exu- 
berant and  tasteless,  being  scarcely  redeemed 
by  the  novelty  and  originality  of  the  plan.  The 
high-altar  is  in  the  centre,  and  the  trascaro  pa- 
nellings are  richly  decorated.  Notice  the 
vaulting  with  arms  of  Portugal,  Don  Manoel's 
sphere,  crosses  of  Christ,  the  rich  east  end,  the 
chancel-arch,  and  west-end  door.  The  cinque- 
cento  two-storeyed  cloister,  south  of  church, 
should  also  be  seen.  In  the  east  tower  hangs 
the  largest  bell  in  the  kingdom.  The  Church 
of  St  Jo&o  Baptista  has  a  fine  west  flamboyant 
door,  a  choir  with  arulejos,  with  paintings  by 
Gran  Vasco,  and  a  tower  with  an  effective 
spire. 

The  Bridge  is  Gothic,  and  most  picturesque. 
The  Romanesque  Church  of  N.  S.  dos  Olivaes 
is  ascribed  to  the  Templars.  Notice  the  choir, 
apsidal  windows,  azulejo  vaulting  of  south  aisle, 
a  fine  west  rose-window,  and  west  door.  We 
shall  also  mention,  to  ecclesiologists,  the  Chapel 
of  San  Gregorio,  that  of  La  Piedade.  etc    The 


town  is  thriving,  and  contains  a  large  cotton 
manufactory,  etc 

Chao  de  Macas,  a  tunnel,  9089  feet  in  length; 
and  another,  1968  feet,  at  Albergaria.  The 
river  Soura  is  crossed  at  Vermeil,  and  Pombal 
is  reached.  This  small  but  somewhat  interest- 
ing town,  of  4500  inhabitants,  was  founded  by 
the  Templars  in  1181.  There  are  some  Moor- 
ish ruins,  the  remains  of  the  Templars'  Roman* 
esque  Church,  and  the  modern  Igreja  Matra, 
interesting  as  having  been  for  some  rime  the 
burial-place  of  the  celebrated  Marquis  of  Pom' 
bal,  one  of  Portugal's  greatest  statesmen,  bom 
May  13,  1699.  Proceeding  on  our  journey,  we 
cross  the  Mondego  at  Saveirv,  and  soon  after 
arrive  at  Coimbra. 


Route  B,  by  Alcobaca  and  Batalha.  Most 
interesting  to  ecclesiologists,  and  those  who 
wish  to  enjoy  the  scenery  of  this  part  of  Portu- 
gal. From  Lisbon  by  the  new  line  to  Figueira 
da  Foz,  vid  Caldas  da  Rainha  and  Torres 
Vedras  (2  trains  per  day),  as  far  as  Vallado. 
From  thence  drive  to  Alcobaca,  in  half  an  hour, 
from  Alcobaca  13  miles  to  Batalha,  and  from 
Batalha  to  Leiria,  on  the  Figueira  da  Foz  line, 
7  miles  (or  return  to  Vallado  and  Lisbon).  Fair 
sleeping  accommodation  at  Batalha  and  at 
Leiria  (Novo  Hotel  dos  Caminhos  de  Ferro). 
Or  drive  all  the  way  from  Caldas ;  or,  as  for- 
merly, from  Carregado  on  the  Lisbon-Oporto 
line,  reaching  Batalha  in  the  evening,  after 
visiting  Alcobaca  on  the  way,  and  proceeding 
on  the  third  day  to  Pombal  or  Condeixa,  and 
the  fourth  day  reaching  Coimbra.  There 
art.  decent  estalagems  (inns)  at  Alcobaca, 
Batalha,  Pombal,  and  Condeixa.  The  stages 
are  called  'estacaos  de  muda.'  Shortly  after 
leaving  Carregado,  Alemquer  is  reached— an 
old  city,  with  Moorish  walls,  and  some  manu- 
factures. The  country  becomes  woody  near 
Carreirar.  In  the  distance  is  seen  the  salt  lake 
Lagoa,  connected  with  the  sea  by  a  channel; 
and  Caldas  da  Rainha  is  reached — population, 
5000  inhabitants.  This  watering-place,  whose 
hydro-sulphuretted  springs  are  most  beneficial, 
stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Arnoya,  at  the 
foot  of  Sierra  de  Boira;  is  clean  and  well 
paved,  and  surrounded  by  pretty  gardens.  The 
hospital  was  founded  by  Queen  Leonor,  who 
was  the  first  to  draw  physicians'  attention  to 
the  springs.  It  was  rebuilt  by  Joao  V.  There 
are  five  springs,  with  a  temperature  of  92*  Fahr. 
The  water  is  limpid  and  very  gaseous,  contain- 
ing 16  per  cent  of  carb.  and  sulphd.  acid 
The  accommodation  is  excellent  The  Church 
of  N.  S.  do  Populio,  which  forms  part  of  the 
hospital,  has  some  good  sculpture,  an  elegant 
belfry,  and  the  walls  in  the  interior  hoed  witf* 


1 


COIMBRA — ROUTES. 


547 


Ctmous  azulejos.  The  Casino  Library  contains 
some  interesting  books.  The  country  between 
this  and  Alcobaga  is  very  charming ;  the  road 
is  steep.  Those  who  can  spare  time  should 
risit  Obidosy  3$  miles  S.  W.  of  Caldos,  a  curious 
mediaeval  little  town,  abounding  in  Gothic  and 
Moorish  remains,  and  containing  seven  churches, 
with  curious  tombs,  etc. 

Alcobaca,  1500  inhabitants,  situated  at  the 
junction  of  the  rivers  Alcoa  and  Baca,  two 
small  watercourses  which  have  formed  its 
name.  The  town  is  clean  and  pretty.  The 
sights  here  are :  the  very  interesting  Church  of 
Alcobaga,  the  largest  Cistertian  convent  in  the 
world,  and  the  Moorish  Castle. 

The  convent  was  founded  11 48,  by  Affonso 
Henriques,  who  peopled  it  with  monks,  sent 
expressly  by  St  Bernard,  at  that  king's  re- 
quest. It  was  finished  in  1222,  and  presently 
became  one  of  the  most  powerful  centres  of  the 
Cistercian  Order.  The  length  of  the  church  is 
some  360  feet,  the  height  70.  The  front  is  plain 
and  unprepossessing.  In  the  centre,  rises  the 
gable  of  the  church,  flanked  by  two  towers, 
and  crowned  with  a  statue  of  the  Virgin.  On 
each  side  extend  plain  bare  wings.  The 
interior  is  of  a  pure  Gothic  style,  beautiful  and 
simple.  It  consists  of  a  very  large  nave,  with 
twelve  very  high  pier-arches.  There  is  no  tri- 
forium  or  clerestory.  There  is  a  circular  apse, 
a  presbytery  with  nine  chapels  round,  transepts 
with  aisles.  Thus  are  formed  three  naves  out 
of  the  central  one :  the  central,  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin ;  that  on  left,  to  St  Michael ;  and  that 
on  right,  to  St  Bernard.  The  apse  contains 
strikingly-beautiful  windows,  and  these  tran- 
septs are  terminated  by  two  fine  rose-windows ; 
but  the  most  important  feature  are  the  tombs. 
In  the  south  transept  chapel  are  the  tombs  of 
Alfonso  II.  and  Affonso  III.,  and  their  queens. 
Notice,  more  particularly,  in  a  chapel  on  the 
right,  the  mausoleums  of  D.  Pedro,  and  the 
celebrated  ,Da.  Ignez  de  Castro.  The  two 
lovers  have  been  placed  foot  to  foot,  in  order, 
according  to  tradition,  that  at  the  resurrection, 
on  rising  from  their  tombs,  the  first  object  that 
should  meet  their  eyes  might  be  each  other's 
beloved  forms.  Nothing  can  exceed,  in  exqui- 
site delicacy  and  grace,  the  queen's  tomb,  and 
her  lace -like  ornamentation.  Da.  Ignez's 
effigy  was  sculptured  under  the  king's  own 
eyes:  the  bassi  relievi  represent  the  Last 
Judgment,  Purgatory,  Resurrection,  and  the 
sufferings  of  the  earliest  martyrs — all  most 
beautifully  carved.  The  chapels  in  the  left 
wing  are  overloaded  with  tasteless  ornaments, 
and  contain  a  few  plaster  statues  andazulega 
pavements.  There  is  a  fine  west  door,  of  seven 
orders.  The  central  cloister,  called  de  D. 
Dinis,  is  the  finest    A  grand  staircase  leads  to 


the  large  library,  whose  former  35,000  volumes 
and  500  MSS.  have  been  removed  to  BibL  Nac. 
Lisbon.  Important  works  ol  restoration  are 
being  carried  on,  and  attended  with  great 
success. 

The  Moorish  Castle  retains  some  interesting 
features  of  past  importance.  On  leaving  Alco- 
baga, the  river  Alcoa  is  crossed,  and  Aljubar- 
rota  reached — a  village  of  no  interest,  save  for 
its  association  with  the  great  battle  of  that 
name,  fought,  August  15, 1385,  between  Joao  I. 
and  the  Castilliwis,  which  decided  the  inde- 
pendence of  the  kingdom,  and  in  memory  of 
which  that  king  erected  the  Convent  of  Batalha. 
The  scenery  loses  now  all  its  former  charm, 
and  the  road  becomes  very  steep,  till  we  near 
the  celebrated  convent,  whose  pinnacles  are 
seen  rising  through  the  trees. 

Batalha. — The  village  of  that  name,  4500 
inhabitants,  rises  on  the  banks  of  the  Lena.  Its 
principal  sight — its  only  one,  indeed — is  the 
beautiful  convent  of  that  name,  which  is  con- 
sidered the  finest  architectural  monument  in 
Portugal.  The  whole  building  consists  of  five 
portions :  the  church,  the  founder's  chapel,  the 
cloisters  and  chapter-room,  the  smaller  cloisters 
and  monastery,  and  the  chapel  called  Capella 
Imperfeita.  It  was  built  by  King  Joao  I.,  in 
compliance  with  a  vow  he  had  made  during  the 
battle  of  Aljubarrota,  and  completed  in  1515. 
The  grounds  and  building  were  given  by  that 
monarch  to  the  Dominican  monks  in  1388, 
three  years  after  the  victory  achieved  by  him 
over  the  Castillians.  The  architects  who  de- 
signed the  plan  are  said  to  have  been  a  Portu- 
guese, Affonso  Dominjuez,  and  an  Irishman 
called  Aquet,  or  Iluct,  by  the  natives,  but 
more  likely  Hacket.  The  style  is  German- 
Gothic,  with  an  admixture  of  French  details 
and  orientalised  decoration.  Though  defective 
in  its  proportions,  the  general  design  is  good ; 
and  there  are  portions,  such  as  the  sepulchral 
chapels,  which  redeem,  however  much  the  rest 
may  disappoint  the  observer.  The  ornamenta- 
tion is  of  the  richest  character,  often  attaining 
a  very  high  degree  of  beauty  and  perfection. 

The  Church. — It  is  cruciform  in  plan,  not 
unlike  that  of  an  Italian  basilica,  a  three-aisled 
nave,  with  two  chapels  at  the  eastern  part  of  each 
transept  The  extent  from  west  to  east  is  of 
416  feet ;  that  from  north  to  south,  including 
the  monastery,  541  feet  The  portal,  which 
stands  twelve  steps  higher  than  the  level  of  the 
ground,  is  28  feet  wide  by  57  high,  and  deco- 
rated with  numberless  statues,  representing 
Moses  and  the  prophets,  saints,  angels, 
popes,  kings,  etc.,  each  resting  on  a  richly- 
moulded  pedestal  and  its  peculiar  attributes. 
The  portal  itself  has  still  more  sculpturing 
about  it    A  niche  of  triangular  form  contain* 


548 


OOIMBRA — ROUTES. 


the  effigy  of  our  Saviour  seated  on  a  throne,  a 
globe  in  one  hand,  whilst  the  right  one  is  ex* 
tended  in  the  act  of  dictating  to  the  four 
evangelists,  whose  effigies  stand  round.  The 
interior  is  grand  and  plain.  The  length  of 
choir  and  nave  is  266  feet ;  the  height,  90 ;  the 
bays  are  eight  in  number.  The  pier-arches 
rise  to  a  height  of  65  feet ;  and  there  is  no  tri- 
forium.  The  high  ogival  windows  are  richly 
painted.  The  first  chapel  to  the  north  is  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Barbara,  and  contains  the  tomb 
and  defaced  shields  of  the  D.  of  Aveiro ;  the 
next,  of  N.  S.  do  Rosario,  contains  that  of  D. 
Isabel,  wife  of  Affonso  V.  The  south  chapel 
is  the  burying-place  of  the  family  of  the  De 
Sousas.  The  choir  is  of  no  interest,  and  its 
details  modernised.  Before  the  high  altar  is 
the  tomb  of  the  founder's  son,  Don  Duarto, 
and  his  queen,  Leonor  (1433-38). 

Ca/ella  do  Fundador. — The  interesting 
feature  here  consists  in  the  original  plan,  being 
that  of  'the  largest  Gothic  dome  attempted.' 
The  octagonal  lantern  is  40  feet  in  diameter, 
and  rests  on  eight  large  piers,  with  exquisitely 
designed  arches,  with  mouldings  gilt  and 
coloured,.  Notice  everything  here:  the  win- 
dows, vaulting,  and,  above  all,  the  magnificent 
mausoleums  of  D.  Joao  and  his  queen  Philippa 
of  Lancaster,  who  is  said  to  have  influenced 
the  choice  of  the  design,  and  contributed  to  the 
beauty  of  many  portions.  Their  effigies  are 
very  fine :  observe  the  arms  of  Portugal  close 
to  the  order  of  the  garter,  and  the  royal  motto, 
'  II  me  plait,'  alternately  with  the  Portuguese 
'  Por  Bern.'  In  niches  on  south  side  are  the 
tombs  of  the  founder's  four  younger  children — 
viz.  the  celebrated  Prince  Don  Henrique,  with 
his  motto,  'Talant  db  bien  Fere  ;'  Fernando, 
Grand-master  of  Aviz,  with  his  motto  'Le 
bien  me  Plait  ;'  Don  Pedro,  with  his '  Desir  ;' 
and  on  that  of  Toao,  '  Je  ai  bien  r aison.'  The 
altars,  once  with  paintings  by  Gran  Vasco,  are 
of  no  interest.  This  beautiful  chapel,  as  well 
as  other  portions  of  the  structure,  has  been 
injured  and  partly  defaced  by  the  French,  but 
is  being,  like  all  the  rest,  very  carefully  restored, 
in  a  style  worthy  of  this,  one  of  the  most  superb 
examples  extant  of  Gothic  decorative  art 

Cloisters  are  entered  through  a  plain 
vaulted  sacristy,  which  contains  no  object  of 
interest  save  a  few  relics  of  Joao  I.  The 
chapter-house  (Casa  do  Capitulo)  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  and  beautiful  parts  of  the 
building.  It  is  an  almost  perfectly  square  hall, 
with  a  magnificent  stone  cupola,  lighted  by  an 
exquisitely  designed  three-light  window  with 
coloured  glass:  subject,  the  Passion  of  Our 
Lord.  It  is  the  masterpiece  of  Mateo  Fer- 
nandez, its  architect.  In  the  centre  are  the 
modest  wooden  coffins  of  Affonso  V.  and  his 


queen  Donna  Isabel  The  cloisters  are  among 
the  finest  in  the  world.  The  entrance  to  them  is 
most  beautiful,  though  somewhat  heavy  The 
proportions  are  180  feet  square,  each  side 
pierced  with  seven  windows,  of  most  effective 
tracery.  The  sculpture,  the  fountains,  the 
N.  W.  angle  and  its  ornamentation,  are  aD 
most  strikingly  beautiful. 

Camilla  Imperfeita,  so  called  because  it 
was  never  completed,  is  an  octagonal  chapel, 
built  by  Don  Manoel  in  that  flamboyant,  over* 
ornamented  Gothic,  peculiar  to  many  Portu- 
guese erections.  Its  principal  feature  of  in- 
terest consists  in  its  wonderfully  decorated 
western  arched  entrance,  which  exceeds  all 
that  fancy  could  imagine.  The  principal  deco- 
rative subject  seems  to  be  a  series  of  knotted 
cables,  with  the  often  repeated  and  hitherto 
unexplained  words,  '  tenyas  erei,'  and  the 
globe,  the  canting  arms  adopted  by  Don 
Manoel  The  portion  allotted  to  the  dwelling 
of  the  monks  was  burnt  in  18x0;  and  f the 
grand  spire,  which  rose  N.  W.  of  transept,  was 
struck  by  lightning,  the  present  fine  one  being, 
however,  a  good  substitute. 

Leiria,  which  is  next  reached  on  leaving 
Batalha,  possesses  no  object  of  interest  Its 
cathedral  is  a  modern  building,  and  its  castle, 
once  very  strong  and  important,  is  all  in  ruins. 
Pornbal  is  the  next  town  of  any  importance  on 
the  road.  From  latter,  through  Redixha,  we 
get  to  Condeixa,  a  clean  little  town,  of  xaoo 
inhabitants,  in  the  province  of  Beira,  15  kils. 
from  which  stands  Coimora. 

Route  C— By  Torres  Vedras  (see  that  name 
and  route  from  Lisbon),  whence  by  Ramalhal, 
a  league  left  from  which  is  the  little  village 
and  battlefield  of  Vimeiro,  where,  August  ai, 
1808,  Sir  Arthur  Wellesley  defeated  Junot's 
army,  which  led  to  the  convention  of  Cintra , 
then  continue  by  Rolica,  the  scene  of  a  hard- 
fought  action  that  same  month  and  year,  and 
but  a  few  days  before,  between  Sir  A.  Welles- 
ley  and  the  French  forces  under  De  Laborde, 
the  result  of  which  was  not  decisive,  but  un- 
favourable to  the  British  troops,  whose  progress 
was  momentarily  checked.  Hence  to  Obidos, 
already  described,  Route  A,  whence  an  excur- 
sion can  be  made  to  Cape  Peniche  and  the 
Berlengas,  of  little  interest  to  the  general 
tourist ;  but  the  former  of  which,  being  one  of 
the  most  important  fortifications  in  Portugal, 
the  military  tourist  will  do  well  to  visit  The 
peninsula  of  Peniche  is  x\  league  in  circum- 
ference, contains  3000  inhabitants.  Its  church, 
de  la  Misericordia,  contains  55  oil-paintings  of 
some  merit  A  good  harbour,  Cape  Carvoebo, 
at  the  extremity,  is  very  picturesque.    Tft* 


COIMBRA 


549 


Berlengas  opposite  are  a  most  dangerous  group 
of  rocky  islands,  the  largest  of  which  is  in- 
habited.    A  lighthouse  and  a  fort. 

COIMBRA. 

ffotds.— The  best  are  Hotel  Conti- 
nental and  Hotel  Braganca — neither  first- 
rate.  Charges  about  1000  reis  a-day, 
all  included. 

The  situation  of  this  city,  on  a  rocky 
hill  and  its  slopes,  at  the  foot  of  which 
flows  the  Mondego,  is  most  picturesque 
and  pleasing.  It  is  no  less  interesting 
for  its  historical  associations,  the  envi- 
rons, and  the  excursions  which  are  to  be 
made  in  the  vicinity.  The  streets  are 
narrow,  steep,  and  dirty,  though  hardly, 
as  Murphy  says,  about  as  rocky  as 
Oporto ;  in  either  place  it  is  impossible 
for  old  and  gouty  people  to  walk/  It 
was  for  a  long  time  a  Moorish  strong- 
hold, but  was  wrested  from  the  Infidel  in 
1064  by  the  armies  of  Don  Fernando  the 
Great  and  the  celebrated  Cid,  Don  Rod- 
rigo  de  Bivar.  Coimbra  became  the 
capital  of  the  kingdom  till  the  reign  of 
JoSo  I.,  after  whose  election,  and  at  the 
request  of :  the  nobility  and  cortes,  the 
seat  of  government  was  transferred  to 
Lisbon.  The  city  has  figured,  moreover, 
very  conspicuously  in  modern  times  too, 
for  it  was  in  its  vicinity  that  the  cele- 
brated battle  of  Busaco  was  fought, 
September  27,  1810,  between  the  Duke 
of  Wellington,  at  the  head  of  40,000 
men,  most  of  which  were  Portuguese 
recruits,  and  Massena's  forces,  numbering 
65,000,  the  result  of  which  was  a  glorious 
victory,  won  by  British  discipline  and 
the  irresistible  onset  of  the  9th  Regiment. 
There  is  some  activity  in  the  town,  and 
several  manufactures.  The  University, 
originally  founded  at  Lisbon,  was  trans- 
ferred to  this  city  by  Joao  III.,  and  soon 
became  one  of  the  most  important  in 
Southern  Europe.  It  is  still  held  in 
high  repute;  and  its  five  '  faculties' — 
viz.,  of  theology,  law,  medicine,  mathe- 
matics, and  philosophy— are  much  fre- 
quented, the  number  of  students  amount* 
ing  to  upwards  of  960.  At  Busaco  there 
are  very  beautiful  woods,  and  splendid 
views ;  the  Hotel  da  Malta  is  comfortable 
and  moderate. 


There  are  two  cathedrals.  The  no\i 
one  is  a  modern  uninteresting  building ; 
the  earlier  one,  '  Se  Velha,'  is  said  to 
have  been  built  on  the  site  of  a  mosque, 
and  retains  portions  of  the  original 
building,  of  the  time  of  Affonso 
Henriques.  Observe,  among  other  ob- 
jects of  interest,  D.  Sisnando's  tomb, 
1260,  on  the  right  of  the  N.  entrance ; 
the  fine  flamboyant  retablo  of  the  high 
altar ;  the  Romanesque  windows  in  the 
transept ;  the  tombs  on  either  side  of  the 
high-altar;  the  excellent  west  door  and 
window,  of  the  Romanesque  style ;  the 
azulejos,  used  everywhere,  almost,  and 
often  with  great  effect;  the  fine  chapel 
of  the  twelve  apostles,  etc.  The  other 
eight  parish  churches  fail  in  interest,  save 
that  of  Sta.  Cruz,  built  1515,  by  D. 
Manoel — a  nave  of  five  bays,  tombs  of 
the  first  kings  of  Portugal,  Affonso  Hen- 
riques and  Sancho  I.  An  upper  choir, 
whose  stalls,  seventy-two  in  number,  are 
most  beautifully  carved;  the  fine  flam- 
boyant cloisters  and  cara  do  capitalo. 
In  the  'Santuario,'  close  by,  are  seen 
several  interesting  relics  of  Affonso  Hen- 
riques, etc.  The  Church  of  San  Salvador 
is  a  small  Romanesque  building  of  a.d. 
1169,  founded  by  EstevSo  Martinz,  with 
a  chapel  of  that  name,  worth  seeing. 
The  University  consists  of  a  series  of 
buildings  standing  on  the  plateau  of  a 
hill,  of  great  extent,  but  no  magnificance. 
There  are  eighteen  colleges  in  all ;  a  fine 
library  containing  60,000  volumes,  most 
of  which  passed  from  the  libraries  of  the 
suppressed  convents  of  S.  Bento,  Sta. 
Cruz,  and  others.  The  collections  of 
natural  history,  the  laboratories,  observa- 
tory, etc,  are  on  a  large  scale,  and  admir- 
ably conducted.  Sta.  Clara,  now  all  in 
ruins,  was  once  a  fine  monastery ;  founded 
by  Dona  Mor  Dias,  1286.  It  is  interesting 
as  having  been  the  first  burial-place  of 
Dona  Ignez  de  Castro,  who,  seven  years 
after  her  death,  was  disinterred,  to  be 
crowned  in  pomp,  and  be  sworn  fealty  to 
as  queen  of  Portugal.  Quinta  das  Lagri- 
mas,  on  the  further  side  of  the  river,  was 
the  residence  or  refuge  of  the  fair  and 
poetical  Ignez  de  Castro,  who  was  secretly 
married  to  the  Infante  Don  Pedro, 
Affonso  IV.'s  son ;  and  here,  January  7, 


550 


PORTO, 


1355,  she  was  barbarously  murdered  in 
that  king's  presence,  and  by  his  orders ; 
on  learning  which,  Don  Pedro  rose  against 
his  father,  laid  waste  the  whole  of  Minho, 
and,  on  his  accession  to  the  throne,  put 
the  murderers  to  death,  proclaimed  his 
marriage,  and  ordered  the  coronation  of 
the  corpse.  The  story  forms  one  of  the 
most  dramatic  episodes  in  history,  and 
has  inspired  many  a  poet  besides  Canv 


oens.  The  quinta  is  now  the  property  of 
Don  Miguel  Osorio  Cabral  de  Osstro,  who 
allows  tourists  to  visit  the  gardens ;  the 
spring,  shaded  by  beautiful  cedars,  called 
Fonte  dos  Amores.  The  view  of  the  city 
and  river  is  very  striking.  The  bridge 
and  aqueduct,  the  botanical  garden,  which 
is  also  the  most  frequented  promenade, 
should  also  be  visited. 


PORTO  (Oporto). 


Capital  of  province  of  Entre-Douro-e- 
Minho  (Minho),  an  episcopal  see,  sea- 
port ;  population  upwards  of  140,000 
inhabitants,  including  the  suburbs. 

Means  of  Access,  x.  From  BngLand. — Steam- 
ers leave  London,  Liverpool,  and  Glasgow,  at 
regular  intervals,  for  Oporto,  which  they  reach 
in  four  days,  but  five  more  generally ;  passages 
being,  of  course,  longer  in  winter.  From 
London  there  is  a  steamer  (Coverley  and 
Westray,  45  Leadenhall  Street,  or  General 
Steam  Navigation  Company)  every  week; 
fare,  £i '.+*.,  and  about  ;£x:xos.  for  food. 
Or  the  Royal  Mail  steamers  may  be  taken 
to  Vigo,  from  whence  by  rail  (occasionally 
the  smaller  boats  come  to  Leixfles,  a  m.  from 
Oporto). 

2.  From  Spain. — Besides  the  riding  tours, 
etc.  (for  which  see  p.  553,  'Excursions  in 
quest  of  Scenery  *)>  hy  Tuy  and  Orense ;  or  by 
the  new  frontier  line  of  Salamanca  and  Medina 
del  Campo.  The  latter  is  the  most  direct 
means  of  communication  with  France.  For 
times  and  fares  see  the  Spanish  '  Indicador  de 
los  Caminos  de  Hierro,'  or  the  '  Guia  Officia 
dos  Caminhos  de  Ferro  de  Portugal.' 

4.  From  Lisbon,  by  sea;  steamers  (irre- 
gular sailings)  several  times  a  month.  Time, 
about  15  hours.  By  land  the  most  direct, 
by  rail  through  Coimbra,  distance,  337 
kil. ;  time,  xo  to  12  hours ;  fares,  xst  cl., 
6810  reis;  2d  cl.,  5300  reis;  3d  cl.,  3720 
reis.  Buffets  at  Carregado,  Santarem,  the 
junction  (entroncamento),  and  Coimbra. 
Omnibuses  in  attendance  at  the  latter  station. 
For  description  of  route  as  far  as  Coimbra, 
see  that  name.  The  scenery  on  leaving 
Coimbra,  is  of  no  interest,  and  devoid  of 
all  beauty.  From  the  station  of  Mealhada, 
and  on  the  right,  is  seen  rising  in  the  distance 
the  Serra  de  Bussaco,  the  site  of  the  battle  of 
that  name,  fought  in  181©  between  the  British 
and  French  troops,  and  which  added  a  laurel 


more  to  the  Duke  of  Wellington's  crown  of 
glory.  Aveiro,  7000  inhab.  This,  the  Roman 
Averium,  a  bishop's  see,  stands  on  the  Rio  of 
that  name,  possesses  a  port  situated  on  the  left 
bank  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Vonga.  The 
Ria  is  a  salt  lake,  separated  from  the  sea  by  a 
bar  of  sand.  Salt  and  fish  are  the  principal 
articles  of  trade.  Variero  sailed  from  this  place 
when  he  discovered  Newfoundland. 

Ovar,  10,000  inhab.,  on  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  and  5  kil.  only  from  the  Atlantic,  is  a 
prosperous  town,  busily  engaged  in  exports  to 
the  colonies  and  N.  coast  of  Africa.  Fish  is 
also  an  important  article  of  trade.  It  is  un- 
wholesome and  subject  to  malaria. 

Villanova  da  Gaia  is  already  a  suburb  of 
Porto,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  suspen' 
sion-bridge. 

PORTO  (or  Oporto). 

Hotels. — The  best  is  the  Grand  Hotd 
do  Porto,  Rua  Santa  Catarina  ;  the  Hotd 
Francfort,  Rua  D.  Pedro,  is  also  very  good; 
the  Hotel  Universal,  Pra<;a  da  Batalha, 
fair.  An  English  hotel  (Castro)  at  Foz ; 
very  comfortable. 

This  very  ancient  and  commercial  city 
is  built  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Douro,  on 
the  slopes  of  the  two  hills  '  Da  SeV  and 
'  Da  Victoria/  about  five  miles  from  the 
sea.  It  is  divided  into  three  districts  or 
bairros,  and  has  four  suburbs,  which,  with 
the  former,  cover  an  area  of  about  two 
miles  in  length.  Its  thickly-  grouped 
buildings  rise  in  amphitheatre,  with  por- 
tions overhanging  the  beautiful  river  and 
its  partly  wooded  banks.  On  the  oppo- 
site bank  stood  the  old  Cale,  now  Gaya, 
which  is  said  to  have  given,  coupled  with 
Porto,  its  present  name  to  Portugal  This 
city  has  always  taken  a  prominent  part 
in  politics,  and  was  one  of  the  first  that 


PORTO. 


551 


%>~ 


against  the  French  invaders  daring 
Peninsular  war.  In  May  11,  1809, 
taring  passage  of  the  Douro  by  the 
i  of  Wellington  was  witnessed  by  its 
tering  and  elated  inhabitants — a  feat 
loldly  and  suddenly  accomplished, 
meanwhile,  Marshal  Soult  was 
fily  sitting  down  to  a  dinner,  which 
df  eaten  by  the  successful  duke  and 
-^*taff.  The  city  is  full  of  life  and 
perity  ;  the  streets  mostly  broad  and 
roome,  with  tram-lines  in  all  directions 
*e  line  running  by  the  side  of  the  river 
^oz  and  Leca,  another  inland  and 
i  '.he  sea  to  Leca,  with  several  lines 
■in  the  town.  The  quays  are  built 
very  large  scale,  and,  like  the  streets, 
ell  lighted  with  gas.  The  prin- 
streets  are  :  Infante  don  Henrique, 
l  is  broad,  handsome,  and  very 
;  over  it,  on  a  steep  crag,  is  seen 
the  Bishop's  Palace;  aud  in  it 
'■;&&  one  of  the  largest  buildings 
\\  the  English  factory,  built  1790. 
erve  the  gilt  and  painted  balconies 
ihe  houses.  Rua  das  Flores  is  one 
lie  most  handsome  streets  in  Porto, 
is  lined  by  goldsmiths'  and  cloth 
^chants'  shops.  In  the  former  may 
noticed  the  antique  crosses  and 
^rish  filigree  trinkets.  The  gold 
_j  reckoned  not  long  ago  the  purest  in 
m  "  world.  .  In  the  Calcada  dos  Clerigos 
e  fine  tower  of  that  name,  which  is 
ft.  high,  an  erection  of  1779,  made 
the  expense  of  the  clergy  of  Porto, 
race  the  name.  The  view  from  the 
amit  is  extensive,  and  will  repay  the 
able  of  ascending  the  high  granite 
s.  In  and  about  Rua  de  S.  Ildefonso 
»  saddlers  and  hatters.  Rua  das 
rtas  is  curious  for  the  richly  gilt  and 
bated  balconies  of  the  houses  which 
0b^  its  sides.  There  are  twelve  squares, 
I  most  remarkable  of  which  are,  Praca 
ma,  with  the  Town  Hall  and  a  fine 
pie  of  Pedro  IV.  ;  and  the  Campo 
f  Martires  da  Patria,  with  a  handsome 
ipital,  courts  of  law,  the  Foundling 
flum,  in  which  may  be  seen  the  wheel 
pre  infants  are  deposited.  The  fine 
ffket-place,  called  Cordoaria,  well  sup- 
fid  with  meat,  fish,  fruit,  and  vege- 
oles,    etc.,    should   be  visited   on    a 


Saturday  morning.  There  are  besides 
several  pretty  promenades,  fountains,  and 
sites  from  which  grand  and  extensive 
views  can  be  obtained,  such  as  '  Campo 
do  Duque  de  Braganza,'  '  Torre  dos 
Clerigos,'  '  Largo  das  Virtudes,'  the  '  Foa- 
tainhas,'  etc.  The  Portuenses  are  active, 
enterprising,  and  more  enlightened  than 
in  the  rest  of  Portugal.  Besides  the  wine 
trade,  which  constitutes  its  most  im- 
portant trade,  there  are  several  manufac- 
tures and  banking  establishments.  The 
largest  wine  houses  belong  mostly  to 
English  firms  by  whom  most  of  the 
foreign  trade  is  conducted. 

Sights. — Although  Porto  is  a  very 
ancient  city,  it  is  very  poor  in  monuments, 
and  will  fail  to  interest  sight-seers ;  we 
shall  therefore  cursorily  mention  the  prin- 
cipal features  of  the  Cathedral,  or  '  Se,' 
said  to  have  been  rebuilt  by  Alfonso  Hen- 
riques,  and  which  rises  on  the  summit  of 
a  hill,  cruciform  in  plan ;  early  pointed 
in  style ;  has  a  nave  with  five  bays  with 
excellent  clustered  piers  ;  eastern  chapels 
to  the  transepts.  The  early  Gothic  cloi- 
sters are  worth  visiting ;  notice  the  sculp- 
ture and  aznlejo  bases  with  subjects  from 
the  Song  of  Solomon ;  a  fine  W.  end, 
with  two  classical  towers  and  a  magnifi- 
cent rose-window.  There  are  no  tombs 
of  interest,  save  one  in  the  cloisters  of 
Pedro  Durao,  ob.  1291.  The  Episcopal 
Palace,  situated  S.W.  of  the  cathedral, 
commands  a  very  fine  view ;  its  library  is 
said  to  be  good,  and  the  staircase,  the 
work  of  Bishop  Mendoca,  is  very  much 
admired.  Below,  in  the  Rua  do  Infante 
Don  Henrique,  is  the  English  Factory 
House,  erected  1790 ;  it  is  all  of  white 
granite  and  is  one  of  the  handsomest 
buildings  in  the  city ;  it  is  said  to  have 
been  built  from  the  designs  of  Mr. 
Whitehead,  formerly  British  Consul  at 
Oporto.  There  are  a  good  library, 
reading-rooms,  dining-rooms,  a  ball-room 
56  ft.  long  by  30  in  breadth.  Strangers 
are  introduced  through  a  member.  The 
churches  are  all  modernised,  and  offer  no 
subject  of  interest.  The  Church  of  San 
Martinho  de  Cedo/eita  (Cito*  Facta)  re- 
tains some  curious  Romanesque  vestiges, 
especially  its  N.  and  W.  doors.     The  /n- 


552 


PORTO — ENVIRONS. 


terior  of  San  Francisco  is  a  strange  mass 
of  richly-gilt  rococo.  It  is  cruciform,  and 
contains  a  fine  W.  window.  The  princi- 
pal public  buildings  are: — the  Orphan 
Asylum  of  Graca ;  Gasa  de  Relacao  ;  the 
magnificent  Hospital  Real ;  the  San  Ovi- 
dio  Barracks,  which  can  hold  8000  sol- 
diers, and  the  Town-Hall.  There  is  a 
good  public  library,  65,000  volumes  and 
onriou8  MSS. ;  a  handsome  exchange, 
newly  built ;  a  picture-gallery  formed  by 
Mr.  Allen,  now  the  property  of  the  town, 
and  which  contains  also  a  fine  collection 
of  natural  history ;  two  clubs — viz.  As- 
semblea  Portuense  and  the  Comercio ; 
a  small  but  pretty  theatre  ;  a  fine  well- 
laid-out  cemetery;  a  pleasant  'passeio,' 
and  many  fine  private  gardens,  one  of  the 
best  of  which,  belonging  to  the  Count  de 
Rezende,  may  be  visited. 

The  celebrated  port- wine  stores,  'ar- 
mazens,'  are  situated  in  the  suburb  of 
Villanova  de  Gaya.  The  export  in  1893 
amounted  to  23,992,982  litres  of  unforti- 
fied (communs),  and  25,868,109  litres  of 
fortified  (licarosos),  15,210,251  litres  of 
the  latter,  and  114,594  litres  of  the  for- 
mer going  to  England.  The  oidium, 
which  first  appeared  here  in  1853  has 
greatly  diminished  the  production,  and 
contributed  in  a  way  to  the  growing  fa- 
vour in  England  for  good  French  wines, 
for  which,  in  reality,  port  wine  was  ori- 
ginally adopted  as  a  substitute,  the 
duties  on  the  former  being  excessive. 
The  other  chief  exports  are  fruit  and 
onions ;  and  there  are  productive  anti- 
mony mines  at  Montallo,  Gondomar, 
Tapada,  and  Vallongo,  about  8  m.  from 
Oporto. 

The  Harbour  is  what  is  called  a  bar 
harbour,  and  therefore,  though  very  capa- 
cious, is  not  secure,  being  seldom  practic- 
able for  vessels  drawing  more  than  16  feet, 
and  by  others  only  at  high  water.  The 
Gastle  of  S.  Jo&o  de  Foz  is  situated  at  the 
entrance,  from  which  a  ledge  of  rocks  and 
sandy  banks  extends  S.W.,  the  largest  of 


which  is  Filgueira,  seen  on  left  on  enter- 
ing the  bay.  It  is,  moreover,  rendered 
dangerous  by  sudden  swellings  or '  freshes,' 
especially  at  the  period  when  the  moun- 
tain torrents  are  swollen  by  the  melting 
snows — the  rise  of  spring-tides  being  from 
10  to  12  feet. 

Environs. — The  chief  excursion  from 
Porto  is  to  Braga  and  Bom  Jesus,  an 
excursion  on  no  account  to  be  missed 
(see  p.  553),  but  there  are  many  spots 
of  interest  to  the  visitor  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood.  A  pretty  drive  may  be 
taken  to  S.  Joao  de  Foz,  a  sea-bathing 
hamlet  of  3000  inhabitants  (Hotel  Cas- 
tro) ;  to  Matozinhos,  near  the  Leca,  whose 
shrine  is  the  object  of  pilgrimage,  as  many 
often  as  30,000  pilgrims  flocking  thither 
annually  to  worship  this,  the  most  famous 
among  the  miraculous  images  of  Portugal; 
to  the  Observatory,  just  beyond  the 
Serra  Convent,  and  to  the  'Crystal  Palace,' 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  river  (for  the  views); 
to  Villa  de  Feira,  the  Roman  Locobriga, 
5  leagues,  visited  for  its  picturesque,  very 
ancient,  and  ivy-clad  ruinous  castle.  There 
are,  besides,  several  very  pretty  villas  worth 
visiting,  more  especially  for  the  grounds 
and  the  magnificent  camellias  and  mag- 
nolias grown  in  them.  Among  others  we 
shall  mention  that  of  Freixo,  which  con- 
tains besides  some  beautiful  azulejos 
(azorecho);  and  that  where  Charles  Albert, 
King  of  Sardinia,  died  July  29,  1849 ; 
the  four  quintas  in  Entre  Quintas,  and 
especially  that  of  '  Do  Meio/  where  the 
plants  are  particularly  fine. 

Directory. — H.B.M.'s  Consul,  Captain 
Drummond.  Vice  -  Consul,  Honorius 
Grant,  Esq. 

Bankers. — London  and  Brazilian  Bank, 
Rua  Infante  D.  Enrique  73. 

Booksellers. — Magalhaes  and  Monk, 
Largo  de  Loyos,  12. 

English  Chaplain. — Rev.  T.  S.  Pole- 
hampton,  M.A.  Church  «t>  the  Campo 
Pequeno. 


553 


Minor  Cities,    and  Excursions  in  quest  of  Scenery. 

BRAGA  (Minho). 


Routes. — xst  Prom  Porto  by  rail  aj  hours. 
If  the  traveller  should  prefer  going  by  carriage, 
the  distance  is  50  kil ;  good  carriage  road ;  the 
country  very  pleasant.  At  Villanova  de 
Famahicao  two  roads  branch:  one  leads  to 
Braga  by  the  highroad,  the  other  goes  by 
Guimaraes  (17,000  inhabitants). 

Braga— Population,  21,000  inhabitants :  the 
Roman  Bracara  Augusta.  Inns.—Franqueira, 
Campo  S.  Anna;  Central^  Campo  D.  Luiz, 
fair.  The  Suevi  chose  this  old  Cartha- 
ginian city  for  their  capital.  It  is  one  of  the 
oldest  Portuguese  cities  of  the  second  order ; 
and  its  archbishop  disputes  with  that  of  Toledo 
the  primacy  of  all  the  Spains.  Braga  rises  on  a 
hill,  surrounded  by  -old  walls,  and  amid  a  plain 
entered  by  the  Cavado  and  the  Deste.  Its 
streets  are  broad  and  its  houses  very  old. 
There  are  two  squares  and  many  chafarinas 
(fountains).  The  sights  are:  the  Cathedral, 
Archbishop's  Palace,  Gardens,  and  the  Pil- 
grimage Chapel  of  the  Bom  Jesus.  The 
Cathedral  is  a  fine  large  building  of  the  12th 
century,  but  has  been  rebuilt  in  the  latest 
Gothic  style  and  partly  modernised.  Though 
small,  it  contains  a  few  interesting  portions. 
Observe  the  tombs  of  Count  Henrique  and  D. 
Tareja  on  the  sides  of  the  high  altar;  the 
cinquecento  carved  stalls,  hi  Coro-alto ;  a  fine 
organ.  Chapels— Those  of  S.  Pedro  de  Rates, 
of  S.  Ovidio,  of  N.  S.  de  Lioramento.  There 
are  some  fine  relics ;  a  golden  chalice  with 
bells,  of  x6th  century,  etc.  Outside,  observe 
the  W.  entrance  and  arches,  and  the  Roman- 
esque S.  doorway.  Archbishops  Palace. — A 
good  library,  and  a  series  of  portraits  of  Arch- 
bishops of  Braga.  Church  of  Sta,  Cruz. — 
Built  1642 ;  a  fine  front.  The  Church  of  St. 
Benedict  contains  very  good  azulejos.  Visit 
also  the  fine  square  called  Campo  dos  Reme- 
dios,  and  Campo  Sta.  Anna ;  also  the  gardens 
called  Praca  dos  Carvalhos. 

The  Pilgrimage  Church  of  Bom  Jesus  lies  3 
miles  £.  of  the  city.  Tram  from  the  station, 
400  r.  return  ticket  Magnificent  situation  and 
views.  Fine  gardens  and  higher  ascent  to  the 
Monte  Sameiro  (2535  feet),  with  rival  shrine. 
Two  good  hotels  close  by  Church  of  Bom  Jesus. 

Excursions  from  Braga. 

Ascent  of  the  Onteiro  Motor. — An  8  leagues' 
ride,  through  a  beautiful  country :  By  Ponte  do 
Prado,   1  league;    Pico  de  Regaiados,  x    1.; 


Portella,  1  L;  Barca,  z  1. ;  Arcos,  z  1.; — & 
A  very  bad  road :  a  guide  may  be  procured  at 
the  inn  close  to  church.  Make  the  ascent  on 
E.  side,  by  Soazo  and  Adran;  5  hrs.  are  re- 
quired. The  view  from  the  summit  exceeds 
description,  ranging  over  the  valleys  of  the 
Lima,  Vez,  and  Minho,  the  distant  Atlantic, 
part  of  Spain,  and  the  Estrella.  Half  the 
ascent  can  be  performed  on  horseback.  The 
Onteiro  may  be  seen  to  advantage  from  a  hill 
on  right  of  Barca,  crowned  by  the  ruinous 
castle  of  Aboim  de  Nobrega. 

Braga  to  Ponte  do  Lima  and  Valencat  10 
leagues. — A  most  picturesque  country ;  one  of 
those  most  frequently  undertaken.  The  finest 
scenery  lies  about  Ponte  de  Lima,  which  is 
considered  the  most  lovely  in  all  Portugal, 
and  deserved  the  name  it  received  from  the 
Romans— viz.  the  'Elysian  fields:'  the  Lima 
river  they  also  called  the  '  Lethe,'  or  River  of 
Oblivion.  A  decent  estalagem  is  to  be  found 
in  the  shady,  narrow  town  of  Lima ;  zooo  in- 
habitants. The  site  of  the  Roman  Forum 
Limicorum.  Don  Pedro  I.  enlarged  it,  and 
built  the  24-arched  bridge  over  the  river. 
'The  environs  of  P.  de  Lima,'  says  Lord 
Carnarvon,  'are  truly  delightful.  The  horizon 
is  bounded  by  a  fine  range  of  mountains,  and 
the  intervening  plains  are  richly  wooded, 
while  vines,  trained  over  trellis-work,  hanging 
down  in  festoons,  and  covering  a  great  extent 
of  country,  looked  like  an  endless  succession  of 
luxuriant  arbours.'  The  banks  of  the  Lima 
equal  anything  Europe  contains,  so  far  as 
beauty,  loveliness,  and  colour  are  expressed. 
Salmon,  trout,  and  barbels  abound.  It  is  navi- 
gable 2  leagues  to  flat-bottomed  boats.  The 
portion  over  the  Labruga  na  Serra  is  very 
beautiful  and  makes  up  for  the  badness  of  the 
road.  At  Rubiais  the  Coura  is  crossed  on  a 
fine  stone  bridge.  In  the  distance  are  descried 
the  range  of  hills  between  Vigo  and  Orense, 
Valenca,  Tuy,  and  the  Minho. 

Valenca,  3800  inhabitants,  a  strong  fortress 
and  frontier  town,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Minho,  on  a  picturesque  hill.  It  con- 
tains a  parish  church,  hospital,  and  barracks. 
Close  by  is  the  village  of  Gaufet,  with  a 
church,  early  but  modernised.  Valenca  to  Vigo 
by  Tuy,  4  leagues. 

Braga  to  A  mar  ante. — Very  fine  scenery, 
riding  or  walking.  Braga  to  Bom  Jesus,  40 
minutes  ;  Caldas  das  Taipas,  \\  hr. ;  Gunna* 


554 


MINOR  CITIES,  AND  EXCURSIONS. 


raes,  i|  hr. ;  Caldas  de  Vizella,  i  hr.  an  min.  ,* 
Penafiel,  4  hrs. ;  Amarantc,  4  hrs.  =  13  hrs. 
A  day  or  two  should  be  spent  at  Bom  Jesus, 
for  the  sake  of  the  scenery  around,  especially 
about  the  Falperra  hills  (Grande  Hotel, 
excellent;  see  page  553).  Guimaraes — inn 
opposite  the  church  —  is  an  ancient  city,  of 
17,000  inhab.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ave, 
and  close  to  river  Azevilla.  In  the  oldest  part 
of  the  town  are  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  the  birth- 
place of  Affonso  I.,  D.  of  Braganza;  the 
Church  of  N.  S.  Da  Oliveira,  once  beautiful, 
has  been  modernised ;  a  valuable  collection  of 
antiquities;  Moorish  towers,  manufacture  of 
cutlery,  fine  table-linen,  etc  Caldas  de 
Vizella—' excellent  sulph.  springs.  There  is  a 
road  leading  direct  from  Guimaraens  to  Ama- 
rante,  5  leagues. 

Braga  to  Caldas  de  Gere*. — A  ride  of  6J 
leagues.  Magnificent  scenery.  Remains  of  a 
12th  century  castle  at  Pinheiro.  At  the  inn 
here  procure  a  guide  to  St  Mamede,  a  chapel ; 
the  view  from  the  summit  is  very  fine.  A 
decent  estalagem  at  Caldas,  whence  excursions 
are  to  be  made  to — 1st  Portella  de  Homem, 
4  hours ;  2.  to  convent  of  Abbadia ;  3.  to 
Salamonde,  4  leagues  ;  4.  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  which  is,  however,  somewhat  diffi- 
cult, and  inferior  to  Onteiro  and  Estrella, 

Braga  to  Chaves,  14  leagues,  riding  or  walk- 
ing. The  ride  is  interesting  enough.  At 
Ruivaes  the  Serra  de  S.  Mamede  is  seen  to 
advantage.  Chaves — 6000  inhabitants — (the 
Roman  Aquae  Flaviae)  rises  on  a  plateau, 
watered  by  the  Tamega ;  a  strong  fortification, 


and  really  deserving  its  name  oiKeys  {C haver 
for  Cloves  or  Chaves),  a  Romanesque  church, 
the  burial-place  of  Affonso  I.  Good  hot  springs, 
153  Fahr.  An  unhealthy  district  From 
Chaves  an  excursion  should  be  made  to  Monto- 
legre,  6  leagues.  Charming  scenery.  Monta* 
legre,  150  inhabitants.  An  uninteresting  cathe- 
dral and  old  castle.  Scenery  very  pretty  in 
the  district  of  the  Gerez  hills.  Also  another  to 
Braganza,  riding  by  Monforte  do  Rio  Libre, 
4000  inhabitants — of  no  interest  Braganza. — 
An  estalagem  kept  by  A.  Montanha.  A 
fortified  city  of  5000  inhabitants.  The  Roman 
Brigantia  on  the  river  Fervenza ;  a  bishop's 
see ;  a  cathedral — very  insignificant :  a  verj 
fine  castle,  where  the  marriage  took  place 
between  Pedro  I.  and  Ignez  de  Castro — in- 
teresting, and  with  a  magnificent  view.  Soma 
important  woollen  and  velveteen  manufactures. 
Interesting  as  having  given  its  title  to  the 
present  reigning  family.  Was  erected  into  a 
duchy  in  1442. 

Braga  to  Vianna  Ponte  do  Lima  and 
A  rcos. — Braga  to  Valenca  [fit  supra).  From 
latter  to  Vianna  by  the  steamer,  or  a  boat  to 
Caminha,  or  by  dil.  to  Caminha.  At  latter  a 
decent  estalagem.  An  interesting  church  of 
15th  century.  Vianna,  7000  inhabitants.  A 
British  vice-consulate.  An  important  fortified 
place ;  a  good  harbour ;  a  flamboyant  cathe- 
dral ;  convent  and  church  of  S.  Domingo,  a 
handsome  classic  structure ;  a  good  inn  in  Rua 
de  S.  Pedro  No.  n.  From  this  city  to  Arcos 
6  leagues,  through  a  magnificent  country. 
Return  to  Braga  by  Pinheiro. 


ASCENT  OF  THE   ESTRELLA. 


From  Oporto  23  J  leagues,  riding  or  walking. 
Sleep  first  night  at  Cahecaes — a  decent  inn ; 
next  day  at  S.  Pedro  do  Sul,  or  Vizeu.  At 
latter  9000  inhabitants ;  a  good  inn,  kept  by 
Pinto ;  a  bishop's  see ;  an  interesting  cathe- 
dral, containing  the  best  pictures  known  of 
Gran  Vasco  (born  1552) ;  a  handsome  seminary. 
Cea,  2000  inhabitants ;  wretched  inn ;  go  to 
sleep  at  Nossa  Senhora  da  d'Esterro,  whose 
sexton  procures  good  accommodation.    Take 


Anselmo  as  a  guide.  Visit  die  source  of  the 
Zezere,  the  Contara,  and  obelisk,  and  the  four 
lakes  found  in  the  Estrella  hills— the  most 
interesting  of  which  is  Lagoa  Escura,  said  to 
be  fathomless.  The  ascent  of  the  Estrella  is 
comparatively  easy,  and  the  summit  may  be 
reached  in  five  hours ;  the  lakes  and  obelisk 
take  another  day,  though  deemed  inferior  in 
beauty  to  the  Gerez.  The  view  from  the 
Estrella  is  very  grand  and  most  extensive. 


EVORA. 


Capital  of  province  of  Alemtejo.  13,700  in- 
hab. — Archbishop's  see. 

Routes. — The  most  direct  from  Lisbon  is  by 
the  railway ;  distance,  116  kiL  Fares,  1st  cl., 
24x0  r.;  2d  cl.,  1920  r.;  time  3$  hrs.  The  country 
about  Pegoes  is  most  uninteresting  and  desert. 
Moftfemorx  4000  inhab.,  is  picturesquely  situ- 


ated on  the  banks  of  the  Cauha,  and  contains 
some  Moorish  ruins  and  an  old  convent  Casa 
Branca,  the  junction  station,  or  entroncamento, 
where  two  lines  branch,  one  to  Evora  and  the 
other  to  Beja. 

Inns.— Hotel  Fabaguino,  formerly  a  convent, 
is  the  best. 


IN  QUEST  OF  SCENERY. 


555 


Evora  is  considered  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing cities  in  Portugal,  and  is  certainly  one  of  its 
most  ancient  ones,  being  founded,  it  is  believed, 
tn  the  6th  century  B.C.  (!)  Q.  Sertorius  took 
the  city  80  B.C.,  and  under  him  and  J.  Caesar 
it  became  very  important  and  prosperous.  '  It 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Moors  in  715,  but 
was  recovered  from  them  towards  the  middle 
of  the  1 2th  century,  by  Giraldo,  surnamed  Sem 
Pavor,  a  truly  Portuguese  chevalier  sans  peur, 
but  not  sans  reproche,  since  he  was  expelled 
from  AfFonso  Henrique's  court  on  account  of 
his  misconduct,  and  took  to  robbing  on  a  large 
scale,  but  was  easily  pardoned,  as  may  be  as 
easily  imagined,  when  he  offered  this  city  to 
the  incensed  monarch,  who  rewarded  him  with 
the  governorship  of  the  place.  The  city  is  most 
charmingly  situated  on  a  plain,  planted  with 
oranges,  olives,  and  fig-trees,  and  very  well 
cultivated.  The  streets  are  very  narrow, 
winding,  and  dirty.  The  most  remarkable 
sights  are:  the  Cathedral,  the  Archiepiscopal 
Library,  and  several  Roman  antiquities  of 
great  interest  and  good  preservation.  The 
Cathedral,  334  feet  long  by  58  broad,  is  a  fine 
building  of  the  12th  century,  with  additions  of 
end  of  13th.  Its  most  remarkable  features  and 
objects  worthy  of  notice  are :  the  transepts,  the 
richly-decorated  choir,  the  work  of  Ludovici, 
Archbishop  of  Mafira.  Church  o/S.  Francisco 
dates  of  the  reigns  of  Joao  II.  and  D.  Manoel, 
and  contains  pictures  ascribed  to  Gran  Vasco. 
Visit  its  charnel-house  and  crypt,  which  are 
curious.  The  Archiepiscopal  Library  was 
founded  1805,  by  Arch.  Cenaculo,  and  con- 
tains 35,000  volumes  and  2000  MSS.;  but  it  is 
more  important  for  the  fine  collection  of  paint- 
ings, said  to  be  by  Gran  Vasco,  representing  a 
series  of  subjects  out  of  the  Virgin's  life.  The 
best  are  said  to  be  the  Repose  and  Adoration. 
There  are,  besides,  some  early  pictures,  busts, 
curious  shells,  and  a  magnificent  Limoges 
enamelled  triptych,  representing  the  crucifixion, 


mounted  in  mosaic-gold.  It  belonged  to  Fran- 
cis I.  of  France,  and  was  found  on  the  battle- 
field of  Pavia.  Among  the  Roman  antiquities 
we  may  mention  the  Temple  of  Diana,  68  feet 
long  by  40  broad,  principally  striking  for  its 
beautiful  Corinthian  columns ;  and  the  A  que- 
duct  0/ Sertorius,  restored  by  Joao  III.  It  is 
4  kiL  in  length ;  its  arches  are  built  with  brick, 
the  rest  of  irregular  stones.  It  is  terminated  by 
a  most  picturesque  and  beautiful  Roman  circu- 
lar tower,  or  'castellum,'  ia  feet  6  inches  in 
diameter,  and  surrounded  by  Ionic  columns. 
Its  preservation  is  most  remarkable,  since  it  is 
asserted  that  its  erection  dates  70  B.C. 

Excursions  may  be  made  to  Bej'a,  by  railway 
direct;  Evora  to  junction  of  Casa  Branca, 
whence  by  rail  direct :  89  kiL  in  all ;  time,  3$ 
hours ;  fares,  xst  cl.  1230  reis.  Be/a,  6000  in- 
habitants ;  an  episcopal  see ;  the  Roman  Julia 
or  Paca,  situated  on  a  hill ;  is  interesting  only 
on  account  of  the  many  Roman  antiquities  it 
contains,  among  which  are  the  perfectly  pre- 
served north  walls,  the  south  gate,  aqueduct 
and  inscriptions,  etc.,  kept  in  the  Casa  de 
Camara.  The  mediaeval  castle,  built  by  King 
Dink,  is  well  preserved,  and  most  interesting  as 
an  example  of  that  special  architecture.  The 
view  from  the  top  is  very  extensive.  The  only 
remarkable  church  is  that  of  N.  S.  da  Conceicao. 

A  nother  excursion  may  be  made  from  Beja 
to  Villa  Vicosa,  3500  inhabitants,  a  handsome 
palace,  once  the  ducal  residence  of  the  Bragan- 
zas,  with  portraits  of  that  family.  A  fine 
church,  founded  by  the  Constable  Nuno  Alvares 
Pereira;  and  in  the  vicinity,  the  Coutada,  or 
ducal  forests,  five  leagues  in  circumference, 
and  walled  in.  This  was  also  the  seat  of  the 
military  order  of  that  name,  founded  in  18 18. 
From  this  city,  Olivenza  may  be  reached: 
zo,ooo  inhabitants.  An  important  Spanish 
frontier  town,  communicating  with  Badajoz  by 
a  good  road. 


INDEX 


Subjects  merely  referred  to  are  marked  (ref.) 


Abamia,  832 

Abrantes,  537 

Agriculture,  xxxiv 

Aguilar,  306 

Agustina  (ref.),  514 

Ainsa,  525 

Alameda  (Madrid),  305 

Alar  del  Key,  362 

Alayor,  355 

Albatera,  323 

Albufera,  Lake,  492 

Albusera,  323 

Alcala,  475 

Alcala    de    los    Gazules, 

211 
Alcala  de  Guadaira,  169 
Alcala  (de  Henares),  1 
Alcala  la  Heal,  168 
Alcantara  and  bridge,  89 
Alcira,  255 
Alcobaca,  547 
Alcoy,  5 
Alcudia,  354 
Alemquer,  546 
Alfavia  (Mallorca),  352 
Alfonso  the  Learned,  212 
Algeciras,  93 
Algemesf,  255 
Algete,  305 
Algorta,  67 
Alhama,  166 
Alhambra,  172 
Alhendin,  167 
Alicante,  6 
Aljaferia,  519 
Aljubarrota,  547 
Ahnaden,  13 
Almagro,  535 


Almansa,  255  ;  (ref.),  5 
Almaraz,  88 
Almeida,  358 
Almeria,  14 
Almodovar,  371 
Almoraima   (Convent    of) 

159 
Alora,  306 
Alphonsine  tables  (astron. 

work),  3 
Alpujarras,  202 
Alsasua,  247 
Alzola,  65 
Amandi,  331 
Amontillado,  xlv 
Aiupolla,  474 
Amusco,  362 
Andalusia,  16 
Andorre  valley,  39 
Andujar,  110 
Antequera,  164 
Aragon,  lxxx,  18 
Aranjuez,  20 
Archidona,  165,  169 
Architects,         celebrated 

Spanish,  lxvi 
Architectural  terms,  lxvii 
Architecture,  lxi 
Archives  kept  at  Siman- 

cas ;      see    Valladolid, 

493 
Arcos    de    la    Frontera, 

215 
Arens  (Arenys),  36 
Arevalo,  248 

Argamasilla  de  Alba,  110 
Argamasilla  de  Galatrava, 

535 
Arganda,  254 
Argeles-sur-mer,  33 


Argentona,  mineral  spring 
37 

Arms,  Spanish,  ciii 

Arrizafa,  121 

Arroyo  del  Puerco,  89 

Arta,  353 

Arteyo,  147 

Arzilla,  421 

Astorga,  123 

Asturias,  24 

Auto-de-f6  (Valladolid), 
498 

Aveiro,  550 

Averroes  (birthplace,  Cor- 
dova), 113 

Avila,  28 ;  (ref.),  248 

Aviles,  334 

Ax,  39 

Ayamonte,  103 

Azcoita,  65 

Azemoor,  421 

Aznalfarache,  416 

Azpeitia,  65 

Azzahra,120 


B 

Badajoz,  536 
Badalona,  38 
Baena,  168 
Baigorry,  522 
Balearic  Islands,  841 
Banking,  cviii 
Banyuls,  33 
Barbastro,  31 
Barbastro,  524 
Barcelona,  31,  41 
Bascara,  34 
Basque  Provinces,  58 


558 


INDEX 


Batalha,  547 

Batatas,  xl 

Batuecas,  Las,  357 

Bayonne,  243 

Beja,  555 

Belem,  The,  541 

Belem,  Torre  of,  544 

Bellegarde  fort,  33 

Bellpuig,  31 

Bellver,  41 

Bellver,  Castle  of,  351 

Belmez,  535 

Bembibre,  124 

Bemfica,  544 

Benameji,  168 

Benavente,  365 

Benicarl6,  475 

Bentarte,  Col  de,  522 

Berenger,  Count  Raymond, 
iv,  42 

Bermudez,  birthplace  of, 
160 

Berruguete  windows,  ex- 
ample of,  4 

Betanzos,  125 

Beznar,  167 

Biarritz,  244 

Bible,  Polyglot  Edition 
(Complutensian),  3 

Bidassoa  (river),  245 

Bilbao,  63,  66 

Black  Prince  (ref.),  64 

Boadilla  del  Monte,  305 

Bobadilla,  306 

Bom  Jesus,  553 

Bonanza,  373 

Borriach  Tower,  37 

Bosost,  40 

Botany,  xxxi 

Braga,  553 

Braganza,  554 

Brenes,  372 

Bridge  at  Honda,  164 

Bull-fights,  xcvii 

Buonaparte  (refs.),  351, 
495 

Burgasot,  492 

Burgos,  68 


Cabezon  de  la  Sal,  331 
Cabra,  168 
Caceres,  88 


Cachucha,  xciii 

Cadiz,  91 

Cagots  (race),  329 

Calahorra,  63 

Calatayud,  250 

Caldas  de  Gerez,  554 

Caldas  de  Montbuy,  38 

Caldas  da  Rainha,  546 

Caldas  de  Beys,  507 

Caldas  de  Vizella,  554 

Caldetas,  36 

Campillos,  164 

Camprodon,  40 

Canals,  xx 

Canfrauc,  524 

Cangas,  333 

Canillo,  39 

Cape  Finisterre,  149 

Cape  St  Vincent,  149 

Cape  Spartel,  421 

Carabancheles  (Los),  305 

Carballa,  147 

Carcagente,  255,  472 

CardeHa,  San  Pedro  de,  87 

Cardona,  mines  of,  32 

Cariiiena,  476 

Carmona,  371 

Carpio,  El,  356 

Carracedo,  239 

Carratraca,  Baths  of,  306 

Cartagena,  103 
Do.,  see  chart  facing  p.  5 

Cartama,  306 

Carteya,  159 

Cartuja  (La)  Burgos,  85 

Cartuja  (La)  Granada,  198 

Cartuja,  the  (Jerez),  214 

Casa  Blanca,  110 

Casavieja,  94 

Castagnettes,  xciii 

Castejon,  64 

Castellon,  475 

Castile  (new  and  old),  105 

Castilian  language,  lii 

Castillo,  491 

Cataluna,  106 

Cattaroja,  255 

Cea,  554 

Ceramic  work,  Ixxxv 

Cerda  Bridge,  39 

Cervantes'  birthplace  (Al- 
cala),  4 ;  (ref.),  44 ; 
when  he  wrote  Don 
Quixote,  110  ;  his  house 
at  Valladolid,  499 


Cesp&les  (birthplace,  Cor* 

dova),  113 
Cestona,  65 
Ceuta,  420 
Chamartin,  305 
Chao  de  Macas,  546 
Charles  L  (ref.),  363 
Charles  V.  at  Barcelona,  48 
Charles  V.,  scene  of  his 

death    at   Yuste,    90 ; 

(refs.),  362,  498 
Chaves,  554 
Chiclana,  94 
Chinchilla,  323 
Churriana,  307 
Cid,  poem,  liii 
Cid,  the  lock  of,  at  Burgos, 

81  ;  birthplace,  82 
Cieza,  323 

Cigars  and  cigarettes,  ci,  cii 
Cintra,  542 
Cinza,  323 
Ciudadela,  355 
Ciudad  Real,  13,  535    - 
Ciudad  Rodrigo,  357 
Climate,  xxviii 
Coimbra,  545,  549 
Coins,  civ 
Colbat6,  56 
Collioure,  33 
Columbus,  house  where  he 

died  at  Valladolid,  498 
Complutensian  Bible,  3 
Condeixa,  548 
Conejera  (island  of),  346 
Conference,  He  de  la,  245 
Corao,  332 
Cordona,  41 
C6rdova,  110 
Coria,  90 
Corn,  xlii 

Cortes,  Hernan  (ref.),  416 
Corucedo  (Lake),  239 
CoruHa,  122 
Costumes,  xci 
Cotton,  xli 
Covadonga,  332 
Crevillente,  323 
Cuenca,  253 
Cueva  del  Gato,  164 


Daggers,  ciii 
Daimiel,  535 


INDEX 


659 


Dances,  xcii 

Daroca,  476 

Dates,  12 

Deva,  160 

Diligences,  xii 

Don  Quixote  ;  see  Quixote 

Douane,  33  ;  8 tat.,  39 

Douro,  passage  of  the,  by 

Wellington,  550 
Drama,  Spanish,  xciv 
Durango,  65 
Duties,  cv 


E 

Ecija,  374 

El  Bodon,  358 

El  Carpio,  110 

Elche,  10,  472 

El  Grao,  492 

El  Pardo,  304 

El  Parral  (Segovia),  370 

El  Retiro  (Malaga),  319 

Elne,  33 

Elvas,  537 

Elzoybar,  65 

En  Camp,  39 

Escaldas,  39 

Escalo,  40 

Escatron,  509 

Escipiones,  Torre  de  los, 

429 
Escorial,  128 
Espartero's  residence,  64 
Espeluy,  110 
Espinareda,  Monastery  of, 

240 
Espinosa,-362 
Espinoseda,  240 
Esporlas  (Mall.),  345 
Estepona,  151 
Estrella,    ascent    of    the, 

554 
Estremadura,  144 
Evora,  554 
Exchange,  cvii 
Eybar,  65 


P 

Fandango,  xciii 
Fans,  xcii 
Felipe  (San),  255 


Ferdinand    and    Isabella 

(burial-place),  197 
Fernan,  Nunez,  306 
Ferrol,  128 
Festivals,  lxxxvii 
Fez,  421 
Figueras,  33 
Finance,  Spanish,  cv 
Finistere,  Cape,  149 
Fishing,  c 
Foix,  39 
Fonda  del   Ferro    Carril, 

475 
Formentera    (Island    of), 

356 
Foz,  St.  Joao  de,  552 
Fuengirola,  151 
Fuenmayor,  64 
Fuensanta  (Montana  de), 

327 
Fuente  de  Piedra,  306 
Fuenterrabia,  244 
Fuentes  de  Ofiora,  358 
Funds,  Spanish,  cv 

G 

Galeras,  xiv 

Galicia,  145 

Gardens,  xxxiii 

Gavamie,  524 

Gaucin,  163 

Gaufei,  553 

Gaundul,  169 

Generalife,  193 

Geography  of  Spain,  xix 

Geology,  xxi 

Gerona,  34 

Gibraltar,  149;  Straits, 
150 

Grjon,  159 

Gil  Bias  (ref.),  331 

Gistain,  525 

Glass-painters,  lxviii 

Glossary,  liv 

Gobantes,  306 

Golden  Fleece  (knights  of) 
(ref.),  48 

Gongora  (birthplace  Cor- 
dova), 113 

Gothic  early  remains,  lxii ; 
later,  lxiii 

Gothic  kings,  xlviii 

Gradefes,  Sta  Maria  de, 
241 


Graeco  -  Roman  architec- 
ture, lxiv 

Grammar,  liii 

Granada,  161 ;  Province, 
203 

Grauja,  La,  209 

Granollers,  38 

Grao,  El,  492 

Grazalema,  215 

Guadalajara,  252 

Guadalete,  battle  of  the, 
212 

Guimaraes,  554 

Guisando,  San  Geronimo 
(Avila),  convent,  29 

Guns,  civ 


H 

Haga,  527 

Hamilcar,  founder  of  Bar- 
celona, 42 

Havanna  cigars,  cii 

Health  statistics,  xxix 

Hellin,  323 

Henares  river,  1 

Hendaye,  245 

Herbaries,  xxxiii 

Hernani,  64 

Herrera,  362 

Herrera,  Juan  de,  birth- 
place (ref.),  331 

History  of  Spain,  xlvii 

Holy  Week,  lxxxix 

Hospitalet,  39 

Hostalrich,  38 

Hotels,  hints,  xviii 

Huelgas,  convent,  84 

Huelva,  103 

Huerta  of  Valencia,  478 

Huesca,  31 

Huesca,  525 

Hunting,  c 


Ignatius  Loyola's  birth- 
place at  Azpeitia,  65 

Invalids,  hints,  xxix 

Irrigation,  xli 

Irun,  246 

Irving,  W.  (ref.),  44 

Isabella,  Queen  (ref.),  495, 
498 


560 

Isabella     of     Portugal's 

tomb,  86 
Italica,  415 


Jaca,  525 

Jaen,  161 

Janda,  Laguna  of,  94 

Jane,  Crazy  (ref.),  495 

Jativa,  255,  472 

Jerez,  210 

Jerica,  478 

Jimena,  159 

Jovellanos,  born  at  Gijon, 

160 
Juan  II. 's  tomb,  86 


K 


Kings  of  Spain,  xlix 


Labrador,  Casa  del,  22 

La  Carraca,  102 

La  Enema,  5 

La  Moncloa,  304 

La  Puda,  Baths  of,  509 

La  Roca,  38 

La  Rota,  102 

Lago  (El),  240 

Lagrimas  wine,  xlvi 

Langreo,  160 

Language,  lii 

Lanjarou,  202 

Larache,  421 

Larran,  522 

Las  Arenas,  67 

Lead-ore  works,  9 

Lebrija,  372 

Ledesma,  361 

Leganes,  305 

Leiria,  548 

Leon,  215,  218 

Le  Refuge  (Bayonne),  244 

Lerida,  31,  510 

Les  Aldudes,  522 

Letters,  xv 

Library  of  the  Escorial, 

139 
Lima,  Ponte  do,  553 


INDEX. 

Linares,  110 

Lisbon,  535,  537 

Literature,  lix 

Llaborse,  40 

Llanes,  331 

Lloraza,  331 

Lodgings  (hints),  xviii 

Loeches,  Baths  of,  4 

Logrono,  64,  250 

Loja,  165 

Lope  de  Rueda,  dramatist, 
xcv 

Lora  del  Rio,  371 

Los  Blancos  (Mines)  104 

Los  Tejares  (Malaga),  319 

Lotteries,  xcviii 

Lucan  (birthplace  Cor- 
dova), 113 

Lucar,  San,  374 

Lucena,  168 

Lugo,  124 

Luz,  St.  Jean  de,  245 


M 

Madrid,  242,  256 
Madrigal,  Alfonso  de,  29 
Mafra,  543 
Mahon,  355 
Mairena,  169 
Maize,  xxxvii 
Malaga,  306  ;  wine,  xlvi 
Malle-poste,  xii 
Mallorca  (Island),  346 
Mancha,  La,  535 
Manresa,  32 
Mantilla,  xci 
Manzanares,  110 
Manzanilla,    374 ;     wine, 

xlvi 
Maps,  xxi 
Martin  de  Valdeiglesius, 

San,  29 
Masnou,  37 
Maragateria,  240 
Maragatos  (race),  216 
Marbella,  151 
Marchena,  169 
Marseilles,  255 
Martorell,  473 
Martos,  163 
Mataporquera,  362 
Mataro,  37 
Matozinhos,  552 


Maurice,  Bishop,  toml^  u?, 

in  Burgos,  71 
Mayor  (Island),  373 
Mealhada,  550 
Measures    and    Weights, 

cix 
Medina  del  Campo,  248 
Medina  Sidonia,  94 
Mena,  de,  Juan  (birthplace 

Cordova),  113 
Menjibar,  110 
Menor  (Island),  373 
Menorca  (Island),  354 
Mequinez,  421 
Mercadal,  355 
Merens,  39 
Merida,  535 
Minglanilla,  253 
Minorca  (see  Menorca),  354 
Miramar  (Pal  ma),  345,353 
Miranda  de  Ebro,  247 
Mieres,  331 
Mineral  Springs,  xxx 
Mines,  xxv 
Molins,  473 
Monacor,  353 
Monastic  Orders,  li 
MondoSedo,  334 
Money,  cvi ;  hints,  cviii  ; 

tables,  cvii 
Mon forte  de  RioLihre,  554 
Mongat,  37 
Monistrol,  56 
Monovar,  5 
Monserrat,  56 
Monserrat  Monastery,  56 
Monserrate  (Cintra),  543 
Montalegre,  554 
Montalegre  Monastery,  37 
Montblancb,  510 
Montbuy  Baths,  56 
Montemor,  534 
Montesa,  La,  255 
Montilla,  122,  306  ;  wine, 

xlvii 
Montpensier,Duke  of  (ref. ), 

372 
Montseny,  38 
Monzon,  31,  362 
Moore,     General     (refs.), 

124,  365 
Moorish  architecture,  lxiv 
Moorish  Khalifs,  xlix 
Morales,    de,    A.    (birth- 
place Cordova),  113 


INDEX. 


561 


T  Tales,  lxxii ;  pictures 
at  Caceres,  etc.,  89 

Morocco,  421 

Moron,  372 

Moscatel,  xlvi 

Motril,  167 

Mountains,  xxiv 

Mount  Lanoux,  40 

Mount  Pedroux,  40 

Mount  Rialp,  39 

Mozarabic  Ritual,  the,  445 

Mula  Hacen,  202,  205 

Murcia,  320 

Murillo,  lxxvii.  See  also 
Madrid  and  Seville 

Murray,  General  (ref.),354 

Murviedro,  491 

Music,  lxxxvi 

N 

Nagera,  64 

Naranco,  Sta  Maria  de,  330 
National  Dress,  xci 
Navalcamero,  305 
Navalmoral,  88 
Navarre,  327 
Navarrete,  64 
Nethon,  Pic  de,  19 
Niebla,  374 
Novelda,  5 
Numismatics,  cv 


Obidos,  547 
Ochagavia,  522 
O'Donnel,  Marshal  (ret), 

420 
Old  Tangier,  419,  421 
Olivenza,  555 
Olives,  xxxix 
Olla,  xliii 
Onteiro  Major,  553 
Oporto,  550 
Orange,  xxxix 
Orbigo,  123 
Orense,  365 
Orihuela,  323 
Oropesa,  88 
Osorno,  362 
Osuna,  169 
Ovar,  550 
Oviedo,  330 


Padron,  el,  507 

Padul,  203 

Painting,  schools  of,  lxxii 

Madrid  (Velazquez), 

lxxviii 

Seville*      (Murillo), 

lxxiv 

Toledo       (Morales), 

lxxiii 

Valencia     (Ribera), 

lxxii 
Pajares,  330 
Palencia,  361 
Palma,  346 

Palm-trees  at  Elche,  11 
Palos,  98 
Pamplona,  248 
Panticosa,  523 
Panza,  Sancho  (ref.),  535 
Paredes  de  Nava,  218 
Passports,  xiv 
Pasture,  xli 
Paterna,  211 
Paular  (el),  210 
Pedro  Abad,  110 
Pelayo,  25 
Pelayo,  tomb  of,  332 
Pena  (Palace),  543 
Penha  Verde,  543 
Peniche,  548 
Peniscola,  475 
Pefion  de  los  Carvajales, 

163 
Perdido,  Monte,  19 
Perpignan,  32 
Perrucca,  La,  330 
Perthuis,  33 
Pesadilla,  305 
Philip  II.  (refs.)atEscorial, 

129,  209,  210,  498,  etc 
Pic  de  Tabe,  39 
Pic  St.  Barthelemy,  39 
Picton,  General  (ref.),  358 
Pinheiro,  554 
Pizarra,  306 
Plasencia,  90 
Plateresque    architecture, 

lxiv 
Poblet,  510 
Pola  de  Lena,  330 
Pombal,  546 
Pompey  (ref.),  64 
Ponferrada,  240 
2o 


Ponte  do  Lima,  553 
Pontevedra,  507 
Population,  xxi 
Poqueira    (Barranco    of), 

202 
Porcelain,  lxxxiii 
Portalegre,  537 
Port  Bou,  3^ 
Porte,  40 
Porto,  550 

Portugal,  529  ;  coast,  149 
Portugalete,  67 
Port  Vendres,  32 
Port-wine  stores,  552 
Posada  de  la  Posta,  374 
Postage  stamps,  xvi 
Post-office,  xv 
Pottery,  lxxxiii 
Printing  (first  introduced 

at  Barcelona,  1471),  43 
Priorio,  340 
Pronunciation,  lvii 
Provinces,  xx 
Puente  del  Diablo,  473 
Puente  Genii,  306 
Puerto  Mano,  535 
Puerto  de  Sta.  Maria,  101 
Puerto  Real,  102 
Puycerda,  39,  41 
Pyrenees  Orientales,  40 
Pyrenees,  Spanish,  18 


Q 

Queluz,  544 

Quicksilver  mines  at  Al- 

maden,  13 
Quintilian  (birthplace),  63 
Quixote,  Don  (refs.),  4,  29, 

110,  168,  535 


R 

Rabida,  La,  98,  103 

Railways,  xii 

Raisins,  xl ;  Alicante,  9 

Raja,  352 

Ramon  Lull  (ref. ),  350 

Redondela,  507 

Reinosa,  362 

Reus,  509 

Reventon  Pass,  210 

Ribadesella,  331 


562 


INDEX. 


Ribalta  (painter),  lxxii,  etc. 

Ribera  (painter),  lxxii,  etc. 

Rice,  xl 

Riding  (hints),  xiii 

Riera  (river),  346 

Rio  Tinto  (mines),  103 

Ripoll  40 

Rivadavia,  507 

Rivadeo,  334 

Rivers,  xx 

Roberts,  David  (ref.),  213 

Robla,  330 

Roda,  169 

Rodrigo,  Ciudad,  357 

Roman  remains,  lxiii 

Romanillos,  305 

Roncal,  523 

Roncesvalles,  522 

Ronda,  163 

Rota,  373 


S 


Sabadell,  32 
Saffron,  xliii 
Sagres,  149 
Saguntum,  491 
Sahagun,  218 
St.  Ignatius  (Loyola),  32 
St.  Jean  de  Luz,  245 
St.  Jean  de  Pied  de  Port, 

522 
St.  Joao  de  Poz,  552 
Salamanca  (Leon),  356 
Salamanca,  battle  of,  360 
Salazar,  522 
Salden,  39 
Salle,  421 
Salou,  474 
Sandoval,  241 
San  Carlos  de  la  Rapita, 

474 
San  Felice  de  Oanovellas, 

38 
San  Fernando-,  102        N 
San  Juan  de  Lerra,  40 
SanLucar,  102,  374 
San  Martin   de    Sarroca, 

474 
San  Miguel  de  la  Escalada, 

241 
San  Miguel  de  Leno,  339 
San  Pedro  de  Eslonza,  241 
San  Pedro  de  Montes,  239 


San  Pedro  de  Villanueva, 
333 

San  Roman,  241 

San  Roque,  151 

San  Sebastian,  246 

San  Vicente,  332 

Santa  F£,  165,  203 

Santa  Maria  de  Naranco, 
339 

Santander  (Asturias),  361 

Santarem,  537 

Santiago,  364 

Santiago  de  Penalva,  238 

Santillana,  331 

Santuario  de  San  Miguel 
del  Fay,  38 

Sardinero,  364 

Sari&ena  station,  31 

Sax,  5 

Sculptors,  principal,  lxxxii 

Sculptures,  lxxxi 

Sea-bathing,  xxx 

Sebastian,  San,  246 

Segorbe,  478 

Segovia,  368 

Selgua,  81 

Seneca  (birthplace  Cor- 
dova), 113 

Sepulveda  (birthplace  Cor- 
dova), 113 

Serra  de  Bassaco,  550 

Sertorius  (ref.),  64 

Seville,  371 

Sheep,  xlii 

Sherry,  xliv 

Sidon  (ancient),  94 

Sierra  Nevada,  201 

Siguenza,  250 

Silk,  xli 

Silla  del  Moro,  195 

Simancas,  495 

Smith  (Adam),  (ref.),  97 

Soller,  353 

Solsona,  41 

Soria,  250 

Soto  de  Roma,  203 

Spagnoletto  (painter),  see 
Ribera,  lxxii,  etc. 

Spanish  language,  Hi 

Sport,  xcix 

Springs,  xxxi 

Stained  windows  at  Bar- 
celona, 49 

Stanhope,  Earl  (ref.),  354 

Steamers,  xiv 


Steamship  (first)  at  Barce- 
lona) a.d.  1543,  43 

Steel,  Spanish,  ciii 

Streets  first  paved  at  Cor- 
dova, 119 

Sugar-cane,  xl 

Swords,  ciii 


Talavera  de  la  Reina,  88 

Talayots,  the,  355 

Tangier,  417 

Tarancon,  254 

Tarazona,  250 

Tardets,  522 

Tardienta,  31 

Tarifa,  93,  159 

Tariffs,  cv 

Tarragona,  424 

Tarrasa,  32 

Tarshish  (ancient),  96 

Teba,  164,  306 

Telegraph,  xvii 

Teresa,  Sta.  de,  29 

Terra  cotta,  lxxxiii 

Teruel,  477 

Tetuan,  419 

Tharsis  (Mines),  103 

Theatres,  xciv 

Thermometer,  xxx 

Thomar,  546 

Titian  (painter),  ref.,  278 

Tobacco,  c 

Tobacco -manufacture  (Ali- 
cante), 8 

Tocina,  372 

Tocon  station,  165 

Toledo,  430 

Toledo  blades,  ciii 

Tolosa,  65,  247 

Tomb  at  Gerona  (Count 
Ramon's),  35 

Tordesillas,  495 

Toro,  494 

Toro,  Morales  de,  495 

Torre  de  Belem,  544 

Torrejon  de  Ardoz,  305 

Torres  Vedras,  544 

Torrijos,  88 

Tortosa,  474 

Toulouse,  39 

Trafalgar,  94  ;  Cape,  150 

Travelling  (hints)  ix 


INDEX. 


563 


Trevelez,  202 
Triana  (Seville),  413 
Trujillo,  88 
Tudela,  250 
Tuy,  507 


U 

Ultimo  Sospiro  del  Moro 

(El),  203 
Union  (La),  104 
Urgel,  41 
Urn  at  Alcala,  3 
Urrugne,  245 
Ussat,  39 
Utrera,  372 


Vac:  a  Madrid,  254 
Vadollano,  110 
Valcarlos,  522 
ValdepeSas,  110 
Valen9a,  553 
Valencia     (kingdom    of), 

469  ;  (capital),  473 
Valenza,  508  a*i 
Valladolid,  4$£~496 
Vallargo,  532 
Valldemosa,  353 
Vallecas,  254 
Valles,  38 
Valparaiso,      hermitages, 

121 
Valsain,  palace  of,  209 
Vedras,  Torres,  544 
Vejer,  94 
Velazquez,     lxxviii ;    see 


also      Madrid,      etc.  ; 

father-in-law,  pictures 

by,  169 
Velez  de  Benadulla,  167 
Velez  Malaga,  166 
Venasque,  523 
Vendrell,  474 
Venta,  94 

Venta  de  Banos,  248 
Venta  de  Cardenas,  110 
Vergara,  65 
Veruela,  250 
Vianna,  554 
Vicalvaro,  305 
Vicente,  San,  332 
Vich,  40 

Vicosa  Villa,  555 
Vierzo  (the),  237 
Vigo,  506,  508 
Vilasar,  37 
Villardoveyo,  160 
Villafranca,  537 
Villafranca  (Vierzo),  124, 

237 
Villafranca  dels  Panades, 

474 
Villalar,  495 
Villalba,  209 
Villanova  da  Gaia,  550 
Villanueva,  31 
Villarana,  473 
Villareal,  64 
ViUarejo,  254 
Villaviciosa,  305,  331 
Villavicosa,  555 
Villavieja,  252 
Villegas  tomb,  Burgos,  76 
Villena,  5 
Vimeiro,    battlefield     of, 

548 


Vinalapo,  river,  5 
Vinaroz,  474 
Vines,  xxxviii 
Vitoria,  247 
Vocabulary,  lvii 


W 

Weights,  cxi 
Wellington,  ,    Duke      of, 

estate,  203  (ref.),  357, 

360,  499,  543,  548,  550 

Wine,  xliv  ;  Chacoli,  66  ; 

-Montilla,  122;   Cellars 

of  Jerez,  213 
Wine,  Port,  stores,  552 
Working  -  classes,   Church 

of  Sta.  Maria,  Barcelona, 

built  by,  49 


Ximenes,  Cardinal,  2,  3 


Yuste,  Convent,  90 
Yviza,  Island  of,  35& 


Z 

Zahara,  373 

Zamora,  494 

Zaragoza,  509 

Zarauz,  65 

Zornoza,  65 

Zurbaran  (painter),  lxxvii 


THE  END 


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AND 


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BY 

M.  A.  R.  TUKER 

AND 

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Part  I 
CHRISTIAN  MONUMENTS  OF  ROME 

Part  II 
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MONASTICISM   IN  ROME 
ECCLESIASTICAL    ROME 


ILLUSTRATED 


LONDON 
ADAM  AND  CHARLES  BLACK 

1900 


SCOPE  OF  THE  WORK 


'"PHIS  Handbook  is  intended  for  the  visitor.     Its  purpose  is  to  de- 
scribe Christian  Rome,  and  so  meet  a  need  felt  by  the  English 
and  American  traveller  for  information  which  does  not  fall  within  the 
scope  of  any  existing  guide-book. 

describes  the  Roman  churches  and  basilicas,  their 
origin  and  construction ;  with  an  explanation  of  the 
interior  of  a  Catholic  church.  An  account  of  the 
titular  Saint  accompanies  that  of  each  church.  It 
gives  also  a  description  of  the  catacombs,  with  their 
history,  symbolism,  and  inscriptions. 

describes  and  gives  an  historical  account  of  the 
Roman  mass,  Church  functions,  vestments,  festivals, 
and  Saints'  days,  etc.  At  the  same  time  it  is  arranged 
to  serve  as  an  office  book  for  the  visitor  at  the  great 
ceremonies ;  and  should  prove  equally  useful  in  any 
Roman  Catholic  country. 


PART  I. 

Christian  Monu- 
ments of  Rome 

Price  7/6 


PART  II. 

The  Liturgy  in 
Rome 

Price  5/- 


PARTS  III.  &  IV.  ^art  m*  contains  an  account  of  every  religious 

in  one  volume     Or(*er  an(^  Congregation  in  Rome,  and  of  the  origin 


of  Monasticism.     Part  IV.  deals  with  the  Pope,  his 
Cardinals,    Household,    Palaces,   and   troops,   Papal 
insignia  and  dress  ;  the  great  Papal  functions,  Election 
of  Pope,  Canonisation ;  Prelates,  Monsignori,  Semin- 
arists, the  Ecclesiastical  orders,  and  the  Congregation 
of  Rites,  of  the  Index,  of  the  Inquisition,  etc.     This 
volume  is  illustrated  with  Badges  of  the  Monastic  orders,  a  Plan  of 
the  Vatican,  the  Arms  of  the  Popes,  and  nine  coloured  plates  of  monks 
and  nuns,  friars,  and  sisters  of  charity. 


Monasticism ; 

Ecclesiastical 

Rome 

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1 


SPECIMEN  PAGE] 


CANONS  227 

HOSPITALLER   AND   MILITARY   ORDER   OF   S.    JOHN   OF 

JERUSALEM 

{Chevaliers  de  Matte — Cavalieri  di  Malta.) 

A  still  earlier  instance  of  semi-monastic  chivalry  than 
the  one  last  described  is  that  of  the  Knights  Hospitallers 
of  S.  John,  afterwards  known  as  Knights  of  Rhodes  and 
later  still  as  Knights  of  Malta.  The  Orders  of  Chivalry, 
each,  in  origin,  semi-religious  in  character  as  was  all  the 
enterprise  of  the  middle  ages,  were  an  outcome  of  the 
spirit  and  temper  of  the  Crusades.  A  passionate  desire 
to  actualise,  amid  the  rough  and  cruel  life  around,  that 
urbanity  and  courtesy,  those  gentler  manners,  necessary 
to  the  ideal  of  Christian  conduct,  assisted  in  establishing 
these  Knightly  Orders — Caesar's  contribution  as  it  were 
to  the  common  Christian  ideal. 

The  most  illustrious  of  such  associations  is  the  Hos- 
pitaller and  Military  Order  of  S.  John  of  Jerusalem,  the 
oldest  order  of  Christian  chivalry,  the  model  of  all  sub- 
sequent Knightly  Orders.  Of  the  3  great  Communities 
which  arose  about  this  time,  the  Hospitallers,  the  Templars, 
and  the  Teutonic  Knights,  none  so  nearly  fulfilled  the  idea 
of  the  frerc-chcvalkr  as  the  Knights  of  S.  John. 

The  foundation  in  Jerusalem  which  was  to  become  the  Founda- 
greatest  aristocracy  in  Europe,  was  due  to  some  rich  mer-  tion. 
chants  of  Amalfi  who  obtained  permission  from  the  Caliph 
to  establish  a  Latin  hospice  for  the  care  of  poor  and 
infirm  pilgrims  to  the  Holy  Land  (10 14- 1023).  The 
work  was  placed  in  the  charge  of  Benedictine  monks.  It 
was  received  with  enthusiasm  by  noble  pilgrims,  by  young 
Knights  and  Ladies ;  and  its  first  Rector  was  one  of  these, 
a  Provengal  named  Peter  Gerard,  who  moved  by  the 
sight  of  its  charities  joined  the  nursing  band ;  while  a 
noble  Roman  called  Agnes  presided  over  the  women's 
hospice,  and  was  head  "  of  the  canonesses  of  S.  John  " 
when  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  entered  Jerusalem  in  1099.* 

*  Godfrey  dowered  the  Order  with  estates  in  France,  the  first  gift 
ever  made  to  it. 


r 


HANDBOOK 

TO  * 

CHRISTIAN   &  ECCLESIASTICAL 

ROME 

BY                     piiiliSKlHi  AND 

M.  A.  R.  TUKER     I  HOPE  MALLESON 


FORM  OF  ORDER 


To 


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Complete  Work  in  Three  Volumes.     Price  21s. 


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