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OUR GARDEN JOURNAL

An IMustrated Quarter
Conducted and Contro/s/ed
By Amateur flower Gardeners
Devoted Exclusively

lo
The Art of Flower Gardening:
For the Amateur Gardener.
Wrs. Herbert Harde--Editor.

TO AVOID CONFUSION WITH OTHER GARDEN MAGAZINES
IT HAS BEEN DECIDED TO USE THE TITLE

OUR GARDEN JOURNAL

INSTEAD OF MY GARDEN MAGAZINE, THE TITLE ORIGINALLY SELECTED

i
CONTENTS OF THIS ISSUE

JUNE, 1917 Vout. 1 No.1
OUR GARDEN—Poem Russell E. Lowe PacE
SUMMER SUN—Poem By Robert Louis Stevenson 56
IN THE ROSE GARDEN Elinore E. Harde I |
ON A TILED TERRACE |
A SUCCESSFUL ROSE GARDEN
DESIGNED FOR A FRIEND 61
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 6s |
FORMULAS OF PLANT FOODS 67 CO
ORDERING ROSES 68 |
OUR GARDEN FORUM 69 |
SOME NEW GARDEN BOOKS 71
GARDEN NOTES WA) |
ILLUSTRATIONS |

THE ROSE BRIDGE |
THE GARDEN WAGON |
A PEGGED ROSE BUSH
IN THE ROSE GARDEN i |
ROSES ON AN IRON ARBOR

THE ROSE GARDEN FROM THE SOUTH FOUNTAIN

WHERE THE ROSE GARDEN AND WOODLAND MEET

PLAN OF A SUCCESSFUL ROSE GARDEN DESIGNED FOR A FRIEND
ERRATUM: Page 45 blueish should read blush

PUBLISHED BY OUR GARDEN JOURNAL
“AT FIFTY SIX WEST FORTY FLF TH STREET,NEW YORK
SUBSCRIPTION SIX DOLLARS THE YEAR-BY INVITATION ONLY
Copyrighted Nineteen Seventeen By ElinoreE Barde

A SO lA A NN CE A

Sy PS Mylene te”

BY WAY

OF
PREFACE

7 a] have always hoped that some day I would write a
ey preface, or an introduction or a prelude, or what-
iz ') ever you may choose to call it, to a book on garden-
ae ing. Ever since I was introduced to horticulture, in
my almost protoplasmic days, and taught to lisp the achieve-
ments of “Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary’ I have loved
flowers. I saw gardens in dreams but was, perforce, content
to take their realization from the blooming windows of the
florists’ shop and think, vaguely, that I would like to be out
somewhere in the bright, warm sunshine, turning over the
cool dark earth in a scented garden, but I stopped there.
I stopped there until along came a gentle apostle of the
green and flowering things and opened my eyes to the won-
derful possibilities of gardening.

At first all garden work seems so difficult, so complicated,
but after all, as the days go by and you have succeeded with
“the little things’? and perhaps have had some successes
with big things, and as garden knowledge and garden
understanding comes to you, ambition will be created by
even your smallest successes, enthusing you on to big things.

Weare, by nature, garden lovers, and the garden lover of
today is not the garden lover of yesterday—quite content to
occasionally admiringly walk through her garden. Today,
the garden lover loves to work in her garden and is evolv-
ing new ideas and new methods which are so helpful to
other amateurs.

I recently heard a well-known English “‘gardener”’ re-
mark, “I have found that it is from the amateur that we
specialists often receive most valuable hints,’ and what
this specialist has said is most decidedly so.

The purpose of Our Garden Journal is to serve the amateur.
It will be conducted and controlled by amateurs, and pub-
lished only for Amateur Flower Gardeners and Garden
Lovers, and we hope to convert all Garden Lovers into
becoming Flower Gardeners as well—who will love flowers
not only as they see them grow in the garden, but loving
them, will want to grow and care for them themselves.

It is to the awakened and growing desire of the amateur
flower gardener, because of her love and devotion to her
garden, because of her desire to know why, and how, and
when Our Garden Journal owes its birth, and we feel that
we owe it to all the great number who love flowers, the
great number who love flowers not only as they see them
produced, but who will love to grow them when they realize
how easily it may be done, and who will feel a fine and
proper elation when they can display proudly a glowing
garden and say “Behold, this is my work’’; it is to these
Our Garden Journal is dedicated; for these it is intended,
and to these all its energies will be devoted in all its various
departments.

All those who know even remotely the difficulties entailed
in getting out the first number ofa magazine will be kind to this
debutante; its faults—they are many, we know—are more
perhaps of omission than commission; but soyez tranquille.

They will be remedied and the debutante will develop
into one of the really desirable girls of the Younger Maga-
zine Set.

What I am going to tell you now is just of my own ex-
periences, of my method of work, of the way I work in my
garden, so that if anything I say does not agree with the
cultural directions given in the various nursery catalogues,
or does not exactly agree with what plantsmen, or growers,
or writers of books on gardening say, or have written or may
write, as the only proper methods of flower gardening,
please remember I do not say they are mistaken—for I am only
speaking of my own personal experiences in actual garden
work, and of my way of gardening in my garden.

in Ae

OUR GARDEN

= It was dawn when| entered our garden,
| Where the dewdrops sparkling so bright.
_ Made me feel that the spirit of beauty

» Had adorned it during the night

ao A With gems of purest water

» Transient,but all the more rare,
~ So that when! came to our garden
' Imight find it most wondrous and fair.

The gossamer web of the spider
_ As it swayed in the sweet ladened breeze,
_. Inwhich mingled the perfume of roses
Of heliotrope and sweet peas,

Made a banner of purest silver

~ Fit for the Fairy race,

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For the dawn of joy on my face.

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( ECD) t has been said, “Amateur Gardeners,” that I

assumed that every woman who had a garden
worked in it. No, I do not assume that—but
I do assume that every woman so fortunate
as to possess a flower garden takes sufficient
interest in her garden to know the right and
the wrong method of gardening. Fortunately there is
a vast number of clever and intelligent amateur garden-
ers who have studied seriously, who have worked hard,
who have made every effort to understand the cor- .
_ rect method of flower gardening and of solving many ©
of the problems which in the beginning seemed to \”
<2. them almost inexplicable, but which, after ._
iy z vn all, like most things are simple enough
=.» + when one knows how. I really think .
it is essential that all possessors ~~
of gardens should know and intel- ~~

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<= ligently understand garden work, so I¥e
that they may know the right and wrong =
method of the work. Fe
When women do know the right and wrong
method of gardening, I know they will find real
joy init. I believe the day is gone, the time has
passed, when women will be satisfied with just
arranging and admiring the flowers that their
gardener has sent in. They will wish to do some-
thing more! They will be workers in their gardens.
Women will be as familiar with floriculture
as they are with flowers. To-day, for a woman to
actually work in her garden is nothing at all un-
usual. Indeed, it is quite the usual thing.
Several great estates in England have women
gardeners (and this before England’s present un-
happy days), a woman and her assistants; also, in
many cases, a woman at the head of a garden
staff of men. We have faith in women doctors,
haven’t we?—in women artists, in women deco-
rators, in women architects, in women sculptors
and—suffragettes? Why not in women gardeners?
Why not employ them? Why not encourage their
work in this field?
The interest women of this country take in
gardening will be apparent when you realize that

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Again I say, fortunately there are through-
out the United States members of garden clubs
who are studying flower gardening practically,
and who know how to combat garden enemies,
who understand the value and importance of fer-
tilizers of the right kind and the right way to use
them, and where and when and how they should
be applied.

The enhanced charm of gardens, the harmo-
nious and beautiful gardens one sees almost every-
where, illustrates most strikingly the progress of
the amateur flower gardener and garden lover. bee

I will tell you of an experience a certain =
garden club had last Summer. The club motored a
over from New Hampshire and I was asked to =
meet them. Luncheon was to be served at half a
past one, but our hostess requested us toarriveat =
about one o’clock to pass the half hour in her =
rose garden until luncheon was served. 5

All the guests (to be exact, thirty-seven 3
horticultural enthusiasts) who walked through <=
this beautiful rose garden knew at least the rudi-
ments of flower gardening. A young gardener had

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avs been disbudding since eight o’clock, =

=-= stopping at twelve for his noon hour and) =.

SF resuming work just before the visiting garden ae
club entered the rose garden. I said he had been
disbudding, but how had he done the work?
Why, by pulling off the immature buds at their
bases, not cutting or pinching away any of the
stems, but leaving a thousand stems more or less
beheaded. Our hostess, who frankly admitted she
knew very little about gardening and nothing at
all about the correct method of disbudding, in-
stantly recognized that something was wrong,
and then and there sent for her superintendent.
His excuse when he saw the devastation was,

« that the young man (I will not call him a “gar-

— dener”’) was “new, that he had misrepresented

= his ability. When questioned in regard to rose

disbudding, he assured me he understood it per-

2 fectly, so I sent him into the rose garden.’ Our

= hostess exclaimed, “Now I know why I see cut

ig roses in abundance in every house but my own,

= andI only blame myself. I am unworthy of this ©

% garden. I have only cared for it as a source of é

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supply, and I shall never forgive myself until I 2
can come into this garden knowing how it should af
be cared for.” I attribute one reason, avery =

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=

important reason, why this lovely “=.=

== garden was looked upon only asa ==

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(SEEDERS)

source of supply.

The garden was too far away from the house.
One could not even gain a glimpse of it from the
house. Our gardens should be near, should be
under our very eyes.

Why, I know of a famous garden in Massa-
chusetts recently sold to a commercial grower, a
nurseryman, because it was so far from the house
that it soon lost interest for those who should
have loved it and who should have spent hours
and hours in it every day among the flowers—
it was just too far away—and because of this lack
of interest and appreciation of those who should
have loved this beautiful garden, the gardeners
lost their interest.

SITUATION

A rose garden requires a very sunny location.
All-day sunshine would be so delightful and so
desirable. Avoid a situation where the bed will be
subjected to the “drip” of trees, vines, etc., as
roses will not thrive under such conditions.

In the rose gardens I have planned there are
only hybrid teas and teas, with the exception of

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"The reason why I exclude the hybrid per- _ es
petuals is because they are not perpetuals at “~

all—the name is a misnomer—as I find they

bloom only in early Summer and occasionally
a bloom now and then in the Fall, with the ex-
ception of Frau Karl Druschki and Mrs. John
Laing, both of which I keep a-blooming all Sum-
mer until late Fall.

Please, let at least one side of your rose gar-
den enjoy the protection of a wall, and if it be
possible (I mean practical) have the wall where
the sun may play upon it nearly all day long, for
these lovely hybrid teas, and teas love the protec-
tion and warmth of a sunny wall; and if you do
this for them they will do this for you—they will
bud and blossom and bloom gayly from June to frost.

PREPARING THE ROSE BED

When we amateur gardeners realize the last-
ing value of thoroughly and correctly made rose
beds we will not spare the time or trouble or e
work to accomplish it. Nor will we be content ©
with anything less than thorough preparation. 2

Roses, notwithstanding statements to the «
contrary, I have found do not require a bed dug Bs

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oan et inches, and I have seen ST ae}
2 fully beautiful and successful rose gardens ~ ==
where, because of existing conditions, it was not
practical to prepare the beds to a greater depth
than fifteen inches.

In digging for the depth decided upon, save
every stone, small or medium, to use later for
drainage — that is, if the soil is clay or heavy loam
and clay.

All the top soil, as it is dug up, should be kept
in a separate pile from the subsoil, for we will use
the top soil to fillin the bottom of the bed. Should
there be any sod we must not forget to first have
it chopped up before using it.

When the depth has been reached, spread
on the bottom a thick coating of lime, then a layer
of stones for drainage—that is, providing the soil =
is heavy clay or heavy clay loam. If the subsoil © >
is sandy, there is natural drainage and the layer =
of stones is not required.

Now, on the bottom where the lime has been ~<
spread, or if stones etc. have been thrown in for
drainage, six inches of rotted stable manure is
spread. Next, all the earth taken from the bed in i

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and uniformly spread. The next =
step is to incorporate bone meal, lime aaa
“ Scotch soot, that is, one quart to the square “Re
yard—the mixture to be six parts bone meal, one
part Scotch soot and one part lime.
As it is necessary to allow for settling, the
rose bed now in preparation should be filled two
or three inches above the natural level with rich
loam screened through a coarse screen. Then,
every three square yards of the bed should now
receive ten quarts of pulverized sheep fertilizer,
one quart of bone meal and one-half pint of Scotch
soot, of course all well mixed together and then
thoroughly raked into the surface of the bed.

PREPARATION BEFORE PLANTING

For a week or two the bed has been ready
3 for planting, and it is just as well that we have
‘< had to wait for our new plants to be delivered, as

| it has given the bed time to settle.

Our rose bushes are now here from the nur-
2} sery and unpacked. We are very careful that the
°* roots are not exposed to the wind or sun, or per-
°! mitted to dry out. Each plant has been carefully
= inspected. Any broken root or shoot we cut away
<j with a sharp pruning shears. A broken shoot or

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<== rot, and it frequently damages the rest of =
oe the plant.

Should any of the stock be shriveled, I cau-
tion you not to plant this shriveled, shrunken
stock until it has been completely buried in the
soil fora week. Then it should be found crisp and
plump and green, and worth planting.

Be sure, however, to place a label indicating
the variety buried there, to avoid confusion, as the
earth will probably make the labeledname illegible.

When more than one variety is buried light
slats should be placed at each side to separate the
various varieties.

Now we will start them off with a clean bill ,,

of health. We have before us two garden tubs, 3
each of such size that the rose bushes may be
dipped into it so as to cover the entire bush (ex-
cepting the roots) and we won’t put those in be-
cause we are holding the plant by its roots.

These tubs should be part of every garden
equipment. They are indispensable.

Met

DIPPING

The solution into which we dip our rose
bushes consists of one ounce of lime and sulphur

solution before dipping. After our roses have
been treated to this bath we place them (that is
the roots) in the adjoining tub which is filled about
one-quarter full of water with enough screened
(unfertilized) loam added, making a nice, soft, mud-
dy paste.

Now this tub is completely filled with plants.
This mud bath accomplishes several things. It
makes the roots flexible, therefore easily spread
out when planting and prevents the roots from
drying out, and it protects every part of every tiny
root with a coating of loam and so prevents them
from coming in direct contact with any fertilizer

~ which may be mixed in the soil in which they are

to be planted.

INITIAL PRUNING OF NEW STOCK.

The initial pruning should now be done.
Tea roses should be prunedlightly. All dead

wood should be cut away. Donot cut back more &

than five inches.

Prune hybrid teas allowing seven or eight 2
buds to remain; also cut out any weak and ©

dead wood.

course, we have thoroughly mixed this ~——“

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PLANTING
I do not recommend setting roses more

inches. Standards three feet. I usually plant
my roses not more than fifteen inches apart, with
the exception of such roses as Frau Karl
Druschki, Gruss an Teplitz and Caroline Testout,
which I plant two feet apart.

The bed is ready and has settled—the plants
are ready for planting.

We have with plant stakes designated as a
guide the various places where the plants are to
be set. The plants are not located by guess or
even by a rule, but with a template fifteen or
eighteen inches long, so that it makes it very
simple to put a stake down and then by placing
the template on the ground against it, setting the
next stake, and so on.

Now we make individual holes eight inches
deep. This is only practical where the bed has
been prepared as I have described.

After removing the plants from the tub where
they have had a mud bath to prevent the roots
from drying out, they should be planted imme-
diately. Before planting the roses, fill the holes
with two or three gallons of water and allow it

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to soak into the soil—then put a little aay
mound of dry soil in the center of mrss =
hole to serve as a cushion for the central ©
base of the plant to rest upon.

It really requires two people to plant roses—
one holding the bush, and the other with fingers
spreading the slender roots at right angles so
as to insure against any of them being turned
under or crossing one another, and to give a proper
and equal root support for the plant.

Some of the roots may require more space
than the hole that has been dug will allow; don’t
attempt to turn the roots around the side of the
hole. In a second we can make a small trench
sufficient to permit them being laid flat and na-
y tutaaly as they should be.

Before planting the standards, set in place
stakes a little more than an inch square, and long
enough to reach up an inch above the bud, for
standards are top heavy and require firm staking
for support. Place the stakes in front of the stock.
Standards should be planted about an inch deeper
than the obvious line shows they were planted in
the nursery.

Tie the stalks securely to the stakes at
top, bottom and middle with half inch green or
brown tape.

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Remember to tie your standard
=== roses to the stake, and not the stake to ~
ae the standard.

We have previously tied a piece of white ie
two inches above the bud as a danger signal
against a too deep planting, and this will be our
guide for the proper depth to plant. I believe that
more roses are lost from too deep planting than
from too shallow planting. Under no circumstances,
if after the earth has been filled in around the
plant, and you find that it is planted too deep,
attempt to draw it up, as this will bring the roots
to an unnatural position and there will be a like-
lihood of the plant being suspended.

After the plant has been set in the hole and |
the roots properly spread out, fill in with screened, 3
dry soil, working it in around the roots. At the ~
same time the plant should be shaken lightly from
side to side, your assistant pressing the soil in
firmly with his hands as the hole is gradually |
filled. Do not be afraid of too heavy a pressure.
When the hole is filled level with the bed, tread &
down hard and all around the hole and up against © |
the stock of the plant. The weight of avery heavy ‘
man toeing it in, can result in nothing but good.
Roses should be set firmly. This toeing in should =

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}2=.2= be done so as to make a saucer-like ag
«= depression around the plant. Fill this
= sgaucer-like depression with water—as the |
water is gradually absorbed by the earth, fill it
up again. Then the finishing touches can be
given, namely, smoothing and mulching of the
bed. No water need be given again for a week
after this method of planting and mulching.

Now remove the nursery labels wired on the
plants, placing small metal plant labels in front
of each plant.

For the standards, the labels should be tied
near the top of the stake, and to the stake—not
the plant.

STAKING

At the time of planting, the stakes should be
set in place. It is of more importance than we
realize to properly stake, particularly our stand-
ards and pillar roses, and to tie them securely to
their stakes or lattice, with narrow green tape,
. just as soon as they have been planted.

The stakes for standards, / think, should not
be less than one inch square, nof round, and
should be placed in position before the standards
are set. The proper place for the stake is in front
of the stock.

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~=.<=~ Tie the plant as closely to the stake — pe
= as possible (not the stake to the plant), =
*““ about three inches from the level of the bed, **~

also at the middle and at the top about one inch
below the bud. The stake should be long enough
to extend an inch above the bud for standard roses,
as they are top heavy and require firm staking
for support. By all means use narrow tape for
tying the plants tothe stakes. Tape remains tied,
while I find raffia and soft binders’ cord does
not, and the first rain will shrink the tape,
securely tightening the knot. The tape should be
dipped in a brown or green “diamond” dye,
making it less obtrusive than it would be in
its natural color.

< WATERING |,

The time to water is in the eatly morning,
never in the heat of the day, never at mid-day,
or even in the early afternoon. There is only one
way to water our rose beds, and that is to give

them a thorough soaking once a week or ten days.
i But it must be a thorough soaking, and when I
& say soaking, | mean just that—surface watering does
i more harm than good. The roots naturally grow
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=e watering, naturally the roots will =
== come up for the moisture they can’t fin
below —resulting in surface-rooters, ae 7
blooms and poor, ill-shaped blooms. The water-
ing must be thorough, or it will not reach the
roots.

TRENCH WATERING

Make a trench seven or eight inches deep
and as wide by drawing a heart shaped (War-
ren) hoe through the soil between the rows of
roses—this trench should be filled several times
with water, or better still, remove the nozzle from
the hose, and cover the open end with a piece of

“4 bagging or burlap and lay it at one end of the
fi trench, moving the hose from trench to trench as
= they become filled, and several times refilling
s; them, after the water has been absorbed. This
“= method obviates the fatigue occasioned by stand-
ing and holding the hose. I need not say that it
saves time.

Of course, “Amateur Gardeners,” you know
why the bagging is put over the open end of the
hose. It softens the force without reducing the
flow of water. After watering, do not fail to have »;
the earth that is heaped along each side of the

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‘= Then cultivate and mulch the bed, and ==.)

2¥> the moisture will be conserved, even in a
drouth for a week or ten days.

MULCHING

If after the rose bed is thoroughly soaked it
is mulched the moisture will not only be preserved
for an extended period, but the ground will also
be prevented from cracking, and even during a
drouth a thorough soaking will be sufficient to
last for a week, providing the mulch is kept
stirred. The pulverized sheep fertilizer, of which
I have spoken, may be used with the greatest
freedom. An inch dressing of it on our rose beds
(lightly incorporated with the soil), makes the
best possible mulch. I strongly advise against
a mulch of stable manure, and the use of liquid
stable manure (I know that this is at variance
with the views of several authors of books on
rose growing.) To express it mildly, liquid stable

* manure is a fly and mosquito breeder and acts or
Pe as a magnet for many other objectionable pests. pi
&: Aside from that, I put it very gently when I say ~
it is a “difficult” fertilizer to use. Keep the sur- ig
| face of the beds stirred and powdered and you =
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worry you, because the surface powdering “

of the soil, that is so beautifying and practical,
will conserve all moisture, keeping it where the
thirsty roots need it and preventing its evapor-
ation.
FEEDING

AS soon as the leaves begin to form give the
plants their first feeding. The surface soil should
be well scuffled, then give a heavy low broadcast
dressing of rose food, namely, pulverized sheep
manure, flour of bone and Scotch soot, in the
proportion of ten parts of pulverized sheep
manure, three parts flour of bone, and one part
of Scotch soot. I know roses are gross feeders.
They are greedy, lovely things. They delight in
feasts of Scotch soot, raw bone, sheep manure,
etc. Ugh! And you must not think I wish
to starve them when I ask you not to give
them any more food for two weeks. Pow-
der the surface of the bed to a depth of three
inches. This powdering will prevent evapo-
ration of moisture. This rose garden or bed will
need no further watering for two weeks if the
bed has been kept properly mulched and the

SRF

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z surface soil for three inches has ~=.
been kept stirred and powdered (this

cultivation is most important and is very «°"

quickly done)—then another liberal feeding
should be given, in the same way as I have
stated. In the interval do not fail to have the
surface of the bed stirred and finely powdered.
No weeds can possibly grow in gardens cared for
this way. Besides, it turns up many of the grubs,
etc. which should be gathered. Watch for them
in the grub stage; it will mean fewer rose beetles,
cock chafers— garden enemies in the future. Once
a month give every rose plant a teaspoonful of
sulphate of iron. Work it thoroughly into the
soil around the base of the plant. After you
have cut from the bushes all nearly developed
blooms (those not too immature to open in
water) you will naturally agree with me that they
need feeding to nourish the next crop to be pro-
duced. To do this, cultivate deeply but do not
smooth over, and do not put on the finishing
touch as yet. Scatter broadcast, with a low,
Sweeping movement of the hand, pulverized
sheep manure, flour of bone (not bone meal) and
Scotch soot, the proportion being ten parts pul-
verized sheep manure, three parts flour of bone

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A great ~
2-£= many of the roses we see in en,

*= are really being starved. Then the soil should 9 =
be deeply ruffled by the use of a Dutch hoe cul-
tivator. As you wish to hurry this food to the
roots that are eager for food, the best way is to
hose it in, using a sharp hard spray—one that
will penetrate the soil when pointed at any par-
ticular spot. In that way it leaches down to
where it is needed, where it will be the rose reserve
larder for some time, where the tender rootlets
will revel in sending blooming strength and vigor
into the plant.

Mey

PRUNING

a We prune plants so that the sap and the
vitality may be sent to the base of the shoot, and

so cause the dormant buds there to break.
I really don’t believe anyone could lay down
a set of fixed rules for pruning that we could

“2 blindly follow. However, weak growth should
receive a more severe pruning than the sturdier
>> growth.

pal The almost unfailingly reiterated advice
: given regarding pruning—to prune roses to buds

» pointing outwards—I know cannot always be

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~ followed, because, as is frequently ~~
the case, one side only of the plant is de-
veloped. Therefore we must prune to a bud,
pointing in the right direction, whether it be out-
ward or inward, to properly balance the con-
tour of the plant.

In pruning, cut to white pith. Where the
pith is brown the wood is dying. I usually prune
strong wood down to about eight inches from
the base, and weaker wood about five inches and
very weak wood to about three inches. I refer,
of course, to dwarf roses.

By mid-July the blooming season for ram-
blers and pillar roses is about over (except the
climbing hybrid teas, and teas) and it is well to
cut out some of the oldest canes and all the flow-
ering laterals back to three eyes. This will induce
shoots to start from the base, which will become
the flowering wood of the following season. The
older wood does bloom to some extent, but not so
abundantly as the new growth of the previous
year. After this pruning, the following spring
cut out the dead wood, and keep the plant within
bounds. The new canes, springing from the base
and which have grown during the previous sea-
son, should remain untouched, excepting the

is or tips of the longest nei =e

tx shouldbelightly pruned. I thinkasafe ==

= rule for the amateur to follow in pruning 9°<
is to prune too little rather than too much.

Prune your standard roses hard, weak wood
to three inches, medium to five inches and sturdy
stems to seven inches.

When pruning wear a pair of the light Japa-
nese woven grass wristlets, to protect the wrists
from thorns and scratches.

“ ROSE ENEMIES AND SPRAYING. *©=

“Elizabeth, in her German Garden” says:
“Who am I that I should do battle with a thrip.”
We should say: “Who are we, that authors of
books on roses should terrify us with their long
and terrible lists of rose enemies? And I am
inclined to think many amateur gardeners are
; frightened by the long array of rose enemies so
many of the books on roses tell us of. They need
not be frightened. After I had read about these
pests, naturally I was filled with fear, and had
hardly finished planting my roses when I com-

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menced to worry, and look for the ~=—

2-= enemies to appear. And at their first Sed
“© appearance I was almost ready to abandon °*~

my roses to their fate—it seemed hopeless to
fight them. The plants were a mass of aphis,
black and white fly, etc., etc. Then to frighten
me still more, Mr. and Mrs. Rose Spider visited
me later, then mildew and black spot. I was
utterly discouraged and wished I had kept on
growing nothing but unlovely magenta zinnias.
From all I had read about these delightful visi-
tors, I realized I had to make a brave fight
against them, or turn my rose garden over
to them. After a little experience in battling I
found it a very simple matter and, I might almost
say, lots of fun (except once when the wind blew
some of the spray I was using in my eyes). I can’t
recommend “My Rose Spray” as an eye wash!
I don’t spray for aphis, thrips, spiders, etc.,
etc., and then spray again for mildew, black-spot,
rust, etc., etc. No, I spray for them all at once,
Ss by combining in one spray solution what is

usually used in three. Firstly, I will tell you
S< about a remarkably simple soap spray that I
“& make with two eight-ounce cakes of sulpho-
Fi tobacco soap. Itis shaved and then dissolved over-

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=~ night in a pail full of hot water. In ~ ===
<< the morning it is of the consistency of ~
7S soft soap. The two eight-ounce cakes of the
sulpho-tobacco soap form the basis of a spray for
about a thousand roses, because to every two
gallons of water I use only five tablespoonfuls

of the soap mixture, one ounce of sulphide of
potassium and one tablespoonful of formalde-
hyde. It should be thoroughly sprayed under
and over the foliage—also spray the ground at
the base of the plant. I use this spray for every
enemy of the rose above ground, and it does not
disfigure the foliage.

I have found that there is but one correct
method of spraying, and I am giving it with full
particularity. To vary the method I think is
unwise. The spray is not complex but extremely
simple and the result certain. There is an ex-
cellent reason for every item of the ingredients.
They are the result of a far wider experience and
a fuller knowledge of the enemies of the rose than
mine, or of any individual amateur gardener that |
I know of. Therefore, I repeat, master these ~
©. simple directions and insist upon your gardeners *
». doing so. Spray the first time when the leaves
*) are very small, that is, just breaking into leaf.

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when the first ease is done, repeat —
it the following day to destroy those that
may have escaped. Then a week later spray
again, then it may not be necessary to spray
again for two weeks, and at intervals of two
weeks through the Summer. Remember, Ama-
teur Gardeners, it is the early spraying that de-
termines whether your rose garden is to be a
joy or a disappointment.
When spraying wear a pair of automobile
goggles to protect the eyes!

SCOTCH SOOT

Scotch soot does many things. It rids the re
soil of slugs, wire and cut worms, and insects ee
will not deposit their eggs on or under the sur- ay
face of beds that have been heavily dressed with
it. In English gardens, it is employed withthe =
greatest liberality. I will say lavishly. Itisafood =
and a purifier, and gives the surface soil of the =
garden that rich, dark color which I think is so ‘@
desirable. Foliage and flowers assume a richer
color almost immediately after the bed has been

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<= treated with imported Scotch soot
© well worked into the soil. Scotch soot in
"<< eonnection with flour of bone is an excellent ~~
fertilizer.
I want to caution you now not to accept any
Scotch soot in anything but the original bag.

THE USE OF LIME

After a “Garden Talk’ given down South
last Winter, I heard someone remark, “Mrs.
Harde is simply mad on the subject of lime.” I
admit it, and hope to influence you also to that
special form of madness. Why? In the first place,
lime does everything that everything else does not
do. Do you understand what I mean? If in pre-
paring the beds of a rose garden we find the soil
= too light, we lime it; if the soil is too heavy, we
a lime it; if the soil is sweet and good, we lime it.
* That is astonishing, is it not? Yes, astonishing,
but true.

I always lime the bottom of rose beds regard-
less of the character of the soil there.

Air-slacked lime will bind and hold soil that
is too light; lime will lighten sticky, heavy, lumpy {%
clay and make it porous, and bring about the dis-
integration of those yellow clods; lime willsweeten ©
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an impetus, an soeyeer coe to all root
*“= action in a sweet soil and added root stimu-
lus—resulting in better and more blooms.

I am going to quote some passages from an
article recently published in The Country Gen-
tleman, written by Donald K. Tressler, so that
you may know what a leading authority says of
lime:

“Ninety-nine out of every hundred ‘acid’
soils contain no acid. How often is this term
used and yet how few of those who use it really
understand its meaning! Why are certain soils
called sour or acid soils if they contain no acid?

“Soils are formed by the gradual decomposi- «.
tion of minerals and rocks through the natural =

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weathering processes. The rocks are made up of
various minerals, the most commonof whichare &
quartz, or ordinary sand, feldspar—the mineral Ee
from which clays are formed—and limestone. ~
Water, acting upon the rocks, naturally dissolves »»
out the most soluble minerals most readily. i

“Unfortunately the minerals containing the ~

REX

ash, lime, magnesia and soda, are the most sol- |
uble. The basic elements are thus gradually ig

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= leached out. In the formationof clay,

for instance, the water merely washes
out the base, potash, leaving the feldspar pe
residue, clay, which contains no large amount of
base.

“Many chemists ridicule the litmus paper
test, but all are agreed that if the soil does not turn
blue litmus paper pink, the soil does not need lime.
This test is best carried out in the following way:
Either take a sample of moist soil or moisten a
sample with water and make the mud into a
mud ball. Place a piece of litmus paper (which
can be purchased from your druggist) on a glass
plate, being careful not to wet the litmus paper,
and then place the mud ball upon it, leaving one
end of the litmus paper uncoverd for the purposes
of comparison. Allow the mud ball to remain in
contact with the litmus for fully five minutes.
Then examine the litmus, looking through the
glass plate. If the paper is pink in spots or over
the whole end, an acid soil is indicated.

“If your soil is apparently acid, it is advisable
to send a three or four ounce sample to your State
experiment station and ask the chemist to tell you
the approximate amount of lime that should be
applied. The chemist will usually run one of the

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<-> more or less accurate lime-require- ~

ment tests and can give you an approxi- =

a mate idea of the amount of lime that you ~~
should apply to the acre.

“The experiment station will report the
amount of lime that should be applied, as lime-
stone or calcium carbonate. However, many
forms of lime may be used with equally beneficial
results. Wood ashes may even be used, though
their cost is usually prohibitive.

“Liming soil has other beneficial results than
merely the furnishing of bases for the soil. In
very poor soils it acts as a fertilizer or plant food.
One of the greatest benefits to be derived from
liming is the bettering of the soil tilth, When
applied to clay soils, the very fine soil grains are {.
cemented together and consequently the soil is =.
made more porous. On sandy soils the carbon- ~
ate of calcium tends to bind the particles together,
making the structure somewhat firmer and in- =~
creasing its moisture-holding power. The prac- °~
tical effect is that liming a sandy soil makesit less ~~.
leachy, while liming a stiff clay makes it more ~
crumbly; the condition of both is improved.

“It is also supposed that lime makes the plant
food in the soil, especially the potash, more solu- |

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ble. The lime is thought to com- as

“It is hoped that the thousands of farmers who
are cultivating acid soils, now frantically trying
one fertilizer and then another in the attempt to
find something that will greatly improve their crop
yields, will lime theirlands. Successful results
with fertilizers will then be assured.”

THE REHABILITATION OF AN
EXHAUSTED ROSE GARDEN

Assuming that all rose-bushes are spaced
fifteen inches apart, a scuffie hoe—“ Warren”
(heart shaped) hoe—should be used to make a
trench through the center of each row. The
trench should be as deep and wide as possible as
the space between the rows of plants will per-
mit without injury to the roots. All through
these trenches Scotch soot and air-slacked lime
should be scattered against the sides and on the
bottom of the trench, using to every pail full of
lime a quart of Scotch soot—new screened soil,

"bine with the elements with which the
potash is combined, setting free the potash. ae

enriched with bone meal. Pulverized sheep

manure and Scotch soot should now be packed

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“= a pail of bone meal, one pail of sheep —

2°= manure, and one quart of Scotch soot. Then =~
the old soil that has been heaped up each
side of the trenches should be removed from
the bed or it may be spread over the surface
again. However, it first should be enriched by
broadcasting the surface of the bed with ten parts
of pulverized sheep manure, three quarts bone
meal and one pint of Scotch soot, and each
plant should also be given a teaspoonful of pow-
dered sulphate of iron—then hoe and cultivate
the bed to a finely powdered surface.

The lime and soot will insure your rose beds
against grubs, andall thesoilenemies. The new
soil, thus enriched, areated and sweetened, will
give new life and vigor to the exhausted rose bed, »
without necessitating lifting and replanting. Also ~~
it will provide many additional inches of soil | —
on the surface of the bed which will cover the
base of roses that otherwise might have to be

a replanted.
a PEGGING OF ROSE BUSHES

sy There is one thing that pegging of rose bushes
& will accomplish, and that is, every bud the en-

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“tire length of the cane is encour- ~

aged to make new shoots, resulting in “2
so many additional blooms that it will Pe
astonish you.

All that is needed to properly “peg” rose
bushes is some stakes with a notch at the top to
drive into the ground, and a roll of narrow tape
to use in tying the tip of the shoots to the stakes.

To guard against the breaking of canes when
pegging I always peg them down first by tying
them at the center of cane and then tying the tip
to stake, then releasing the middle tying. This
prevents breaking of the cane and also makes
certain that the shoot will not suddenly snap back

.# When you are tying it at the tip, necessitating a
- hurried visit to the oculist.

We can peg our roses over low stone walls,
or low hedges, pegging them over on the other
side, and in borders and beds. Pegging the long
canes produces miniature rose arches and in
duces them to bloom freely, as they form flower-
ing shoots from the base to the tip of the stem.

A few of the long shoots of the Frau Karl
Druschki rose should always be pegged down,
and any rose that sends up one great, strong
cane, for if you cut it down, you usually get a

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any blooms, but if you peg it down every

In pegging down I frequently (particularly
where roses are in borders) peg them down to
form semi-circular arches, so that the end of the
shoot of one comes just beyond the baseof thenext.

Uniform lengths of flexible rattan with both
ends stuck into the ground to steady them and
form arches are excellent to use in pegging roses
where a formal effect is desired.

I recently saw the statement made that “the
roses on pegged down bushes are of very little
use for cutting.” I am going to show you a pic-
ture of a pegged rose bush and ask you to judge
of the correctness of this statement. Of course,
pegged rose bushes require more feeding than
bushes not pegged, because of the fact that they
give uS so many additional shoots and blooms
induced by the process.

TRAINING OF CLIMBING ROSES

The training of Climbing and Pillar Roses is
most important. With Climbing Roses, if the
canes are allowed to grow perpendicularly, it will
cause the lower part or the base to become bare;

we irsekes

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2 CY COLIN NERDY NCO LION 1 ROSCOE

bud or eye on the upper side will break. Fee

<< pase as well as the top will always have

cane, tying it into shape and position, the

an abundance of foliage. This fanning out
causes the eyes to break from base to tip.

TRAINING OF PILLAR ROSES

Pillar roses should be trained in a different
way from climbing roses. They should be wound
round and round, and in and out, on their pillar
or support, tied in such a manner that the canes
will not touch or cross one another; that is, come
in contact, so that one cane will not be injured
by the thorns of another. Train new canes de-
cidedly fan shape, so that the buds will break
right to the base of the plant. Also remember
that climbing roses require more water than other
roses, particularly in their blooming season.

SUPPORT FOR PILLAR ROSES

For the support of pillar roses I know of
nothing better than cedar posts with the branches
“spurred” off about six to eight inches from the
post. Tieand train the canes to the spurs. Natur-
ally after the roses are in leaf and in bloom but x
very little of the support will be in view. These

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WHERE THE ROSE GARDEN
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THE ROSE GARDEN

HOCIWMd WSOW AHL

CLIMBERS ON THE IRON ARBOR

= ——

=~ ast for many years. Particularly if the

CUTTING ROSES

If we pin our faith to teas and hybrid teas, we
will cut blooms all summer long, for the wizardry
of the hybridists has given us a family of roses
combining every charm a good rose should have,
perfume and grace, color and vigor, and we ama-
teurs may successfully grow them.

But if you wish plenty of roses all summer
long, do not be afraid to cut them and keep cutting
them. So few of us realize that with the ever-
blooming roses it is the cutting of them that
makes it possible to have roses to cut. Always cut
your roses early in the morning or after sunset.

Cut them with as long stems as possible. It serves
for pruning. Cut to an outgrowing bud or eye,
and on a slant; never use scissors and always
see that your pruning shears are sharp—very
sharp. When you cut away a specially sturdy
stem, sooth the cut with a pinch of soil.

part that is set in the ground is painted SHEE
with creosote.

In cutting roses from standards, keepin mind ©

the globe or rounded form so desirable, and which

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; SERS
<= may be destroyed for the Summer =. a4
a ' by the careless cutting of the flowers. ==.
oes DISBUDDING g

The process of disbudding roses is rather a
delicate one and should be done delicately. All
superfluous and ill-shaped buds may be pinched
off or cut away. The superfluous buds will be
found close to the large central bud and by remov-
ing them the main bud or buds will develop into
larger and finer flowers. Such roses as Gruss and
Teplitz, I think, should not be disbudded. The
greatest charm of this rose is the long sprays of
flower clusters. To disbud such roses as Marie
Pavie, Mme. Cecile Brunner, George Elgar, etc.
and I have seen it done, to me seems wicked, be-
cause these alluring miniature roses, so captivat-
ing in their miniature form, are so lovably tiny —
and so they were meant to be.

With the rose Kaiserin Augusta Victoria I
do not disbud either. I cut it with long stems in-
cluding the buds. It is by doing this that I have
more Kaiserin Augusta Victoria roses to cut than
** anyone else 1 know. Disbudding should be done
~~ when the buds are large enough to hold between
", the thumb and finger for pinching off or cutting
“¢ away with a blunt end scissors.

Fee Od}

PEN CRERE

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2 Of course one never knows just what a

rose really willdo. It may thrive with a vigor
surprising in a friend’s garden, but in our own
it presents the appearance of a weakling, re-
fuses to bloom, refuses to do little else than live
half-heartedly. Now what is to be done with such
a rose, we wonder? Try it elsewhere. Move it
about, we may eventually find its congenial home!

A rose that would not climb for me in one
position, but stubbornly insisted on remaining
a dwarf, when moved to another part of the gar-
den proceeded to climb like “Jack’s bean stalk.”
If we do not find the right place for a rose to
thrive in, then let us discard it; it is not the rose
for our garden. It is just this experimenting that
helps us amateurs. Roses and their ways and
whims will always be a happy and interesting
topic, now that we are all going to be actual

> working gardeners with understanding, intelli-

* gence and, above all things, patience. We all
& possess an abiding love for roses, and loving them,

** there is but little we cannot succeed in accom-

plishing with them.

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WINTER PROTECTION

Nearly all amateur gardeners feel much
apprehension over wintering their roses the Te
first Winter after planting, but they need not.

Amateur Gardeners, I wonder if after a most
elaborate system of winter protecting you have
found when all this “elaborate protection” is re-
moved that your precious standard or tree roses
have been “ winter-killed?”

That is what I hear on almost every side.
Boarding up and filling spaces with leaves, put-
ting on straw caps, stacking with tightly tied
cornstalks, winding with burlap, etc., etc. These
are only a few of the methods employed, and yet
the standards “winter-kill.”’ There is one and
only one absolutely safe way that I know of to
“Winter” your valuables, a way that is simple,
and speedily accomplished.

Have a trench dug anywhere the drainage
~ is good, and bury your standard roses. Mound

up the earth over them at least a foot high to

shed all rain and melting snow. When they are
« taken up in the early Spring give them the same
lime-sulphur dip I suggested be given to new
stock. You will find your prizeo plants win-
tered in this way crisp and green and the plump,

oa Protect your hybrid teas aod tea roses over
the Winter by mounding up soil to ten or twelve
inches around your plants, packing with the
spade. This protecting, however, is not used
until after the ground is frozen. Use new soil
for the mounding up. Don’t rob the bed, between
the plants, of soil, leaving deep depressions; no,
use new soil, screened and limed by scattering
a powdering of lime all through the rose beds.

When hilling up around each hybrid tea and
tea rose for Winter protection do not make the
mistake of drawing the soil from the bed up
around the bushes, resulting in hollows in which
water will settle. Also it robs the spaces between
the roses of their necessary soil. I have seen this
done very frequently, and it is a mistake!

Additional screened soil should be used for
“hilling up.” Cut the excessive length of canes
of bush roses when protecting them for Winter.
These long canes do much damage to other canes
by being blown about by high winds.

It is important that the Winter protection be
not completed until after the surface of the ground
is frozen.

ee
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=
—
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f= in the Spring, after drawing down
== to the level of the bed the hilled-up soil sh
7" wysed for Winter protection of the roses, Re
tread down thoroughly around the base of every
bush, because you will find many of them much
loosened by the action of the ground frost. I
have known strong, old plants to be completely
“heaved” out of the ground by the frost. After
the “‘treading-in,”’ cultivate and mulch the sur-
face of the bed.

A PROTEST AGAINST THE MISLEADING
AND PERPLEXING NAMING OF ROSES.

I am extremely interested in the movement

af started to obtain the co-operation of the leading
i: rose-growers in this country to agree on one name
ss for each variety, and so avoid the perplexing con-
=} dition that exists to-day, when the amateur is
“. confronted with several names for the same rose.
i) I will just mention a few that masquerade under
“2 various aliases.
e “Wm. R. Smith’ has many names, and
» while it is strictly an American Rose it is called
“Queen Wilhelmena,” “Countess of Warwick,”
~ “Superbus,” “Charles Dingee,” “JeannetteHeller”
=| and “Maiden’s Blush.”

SON SON GOW:

Ni rie “Abel Chatenay’” has even =
il more names than “Wm. R. Smith,” a
=I" Cecil Brunner,” although so tiny, has five names: =
“Fairy,” “Sweetheart,” “Mignon,” “Dottie,” and
“Prince de Bulgarie,” is known as the “Mrs.
Taft Rose’ and “Antoine Revoire.”

These are but a very few of the roses bearing
several names and catalogued under several
names. This is confusing, particularly so to those
who are just starting gardens.

REMOVING HYBRID-PERPETUALS

I think that in most gardens far too much
Space is given to hybrid-perpetuals which
bloom but once and take up a great deal of
room and whose foliage is neither beautiful nor
ornamental. I except Frau Karl Druschki, of
course because, properly grown, correctly pruned,
She will bloom to a certain extent until freezing
weather. I understand Admiral Wardremoved |
from his garden thousands of perpetual roses, |»
giving their places to the hybrid-teas, and teas ~
that are always in bloom. I am afraid many
subscribers to “The Talks’ I gave two years ago
felt my advice was rather sweeping, when I
suggested giving their place in our gardens to teas

jen
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tion I know was eae but remember ee
the wonder-roses you have to replace them that
will give you color in your rose gardens, and an
abundance of blooms to cut, until freezing
weather. Why, I sawat least a hundred Baron de
Bounstetten rose-plants, in a bed, July 15th, and
not a rose, not a bud to be seen and the foliage
already dreary and afflicted. Think of the waste
of space, of care, of nourishment these hybrid-
perpetuals devour, without return!

I would forgive arose for not blooming after its
prescribed season, if its foliage is fine and beauti-
ful, but not otherwise. A word about the Killar-
ney roses. My experience has been, unless they
are given absorbing attention you cannot keep
them free from mildew, and, what is more, they
will start every bush near them that is in the least
prone to mildew. Grown under glass mildew and
black-spot can be controlled but nof in the open
garden. fi:
George Dickson, a beautiful and desirable =
rose, so frequently quoted as a hybrid tea, is ©

now I see placed in the hybrid-perpetual class by @

several growers and this is where it belongs. For {

penn ermsee rn : a Y ig

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me it bloomed generously just once; oe G

a two weeks later nothing remained on =

I cut hundreds of hybrid-teas and teas every
few days all through October in my garden and I
Saw just aS many and more roses at that time in
other gardens, all hybrid-teas and teas.

LIST OF ROSES

In giving you this list of roses, Amateur
Gardeners, I am not naming (in fact, I know I
have not named) all the worth-while roses, but
I have named those I personally have seen in

many gardens, as well as in my garden, therefore iG
confirming my own intimate knowledge of their ~~
value. I have visited, several times during the ie
recent Summers and Autumns, the various Test 4

Rose Gardens, observing and taking note of foli-
age and buds and blooms during the different
seasons and I know the complete satisfaction
these roses will give the amateurs in their
gardens.

If I could have but ten varieties from all

=>
——
=

Bere

7°Wm. R. Smith
Mme. Segond Weber
Lady Pirrie
Lady Alice Stanley
Ophelia

== the rose world, the following =
= “Vonder Roses” would be my choice: —

Marquise de Sinety
Old Gold

Robin Hood
Laurent Carle
Caroline Testout

It would not be difficult to make a second
choice of ten, or a third or a fourth choice of ten.

My second would be:
Jonkheer J. L. Mock
Frau Karl Druschki
Mme. Jules Bouche

Lady Roberts

Mrs. Aaron Ward

Third choice of ten:

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria
Etoile de France

Dorothy Page Roberts
Bessie Brown

General Mac Arthur

OBE

ones A

ere

PSY

White Maman Cochet
Pharisaer

Mme. Ravary

Robert Huey

Miss Alice de Rothschild

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Mme. Abel Chatenay
Mrs. Charles Russell
Rhea Reid

Duchess of Wellington
Florence Pemberton

Lady Ursula

Antoine Rivoire

Mrs. Amy Hammond
Dean Hole

General Arnold Janssen

Fourth choice of ten:

Radiance

Ellen Wilmot

Mary Countess of Ilchester
Irish Fireflame

Viscountess Folkstone

NS BI To ay ae Fae. ER TAT ee
OE LOCO oS Tone Ma oa Nae

ON WHITE ROSES
(CREAM AND BLUEISH TINTED)

D2 Bessie Brown Molly Sharman-Crawford “2"" =
British Queen Mrs. Amy Hammond
Florence Forrester Mrs. Andrew Carnegie
Florence Pemberton Mrs. Herbert Stevens
Frau Karl Druschki The Bride
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria White Maman Cochet
Marie Guillot Wm. R. Smith

Mme. Jules Bouche

BEST PINK AND COMBINATIONS OF PINK,
FLESH, SALMON, YELLOW, Etc.

Alice Roosevelt Marquise de Ganay
Antoine Rivoire Miss Alice de Rothschild
Betty Mme. Abel Chatenay
Caroline Testout Mme. Leon Pain
Dean Hole Mme. Segond Weber
Dorothy Page Roberts Mrs. B. R. Cant
Duchess of Westminster Mrs. George Shawyer
George Nabounaud Ophelia
Grace Molyneux Pharisaer
Gustave Grunerwald Pink Maman Cochet
Gustave Pratt Prince de Bulgarie

2 Jonkheer J. L. Mock Robert Huey

<3 Lady Alice Stanley Souvenir De Pierre Notting

=< Lady Pirrie Willowmere

i Lady Roberts Wm. R. Smith

Lady Ursula

RED ROSES

Admiral Schley

Laurent Carle
=< Brilliant Lieutenant Chaure oe

Cardinal Mary Countess of Ilchester
Etoile de France Meteor
General Arnold Janssen Prince E. C. D’Arenberg
General Mac Arthur Rhea Reid
Gruss an Teplitz Richard
Helen Gould Robert Darian
Hoosier Beauty Robin Hood

RAMBLER ROSES OF UNUSUAL CHARM
(NOT EVER-BLOOMING)

Alberic Barbier (V.F.) Mary Lovett

American Pillar Mme. Alfred Carriere

Aviateur Bleriot Mrs. M. H. Walsh

Climbing American Beauty Perkins Family

Dr. W. Van Fleet Silver Moon

Hiawatha Shower of Gold

Lady Blanche Tausendschoen
CLIMBING ROSES

Allister Stella Gray Flower of Fairfield

Beauty of Glazenwood Gruss an Teplitz

Birdie Bly Kaiserin Augusta Victoria

Boquet d’Or Keystone

Mme. Cecile Brunner White Maman Cochet

Climbing Clothilde Soupert (Climbing)

Climbing Richmond Wm. Allen Richardson

Climbing My Maryland Trier

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= Cheerful Lady Pirrie

== Countess Clauwilliam Mrs. Charles Lutaud
Dora Van Tet’s Mrs. Archie Gray
Francis Scott Key Mrs. Charles Russell
George Dickson Mrs. David Jardine
Gruss an Aachen Old Gold
Hadley Ophelia
Hoosier Beauty Robin Hood
Lady Alice Stanley

HYBRID POLYANTHA
DWARF FAIRY ROSES FOR FRAMING OR EDGING

Baby Tausendschoen Jessie
Cecile Brunner Marie Pavie
Clothilde Soupert Orleans
Ellen Poulson Perle d’Or
George Elgar Yvonne Rabier
THE BEST EVER-BLOOMING TREE ROSES
I KNOW OF
Antoine Rivoire Marquise De Sinety
Duchess of Wellington Mme. Abel Chatenay
Florence Pemberton Mme. Caroline Testout
Frau Karl Druschki Mme. Ravary
General Mac Arthur Mrs. Aaron Ward
: General S. A. Janssen Mrs. George Shawyer
Gruss an Teplitz Pink Maman Cochet
pe Harry Kirk Prince de Bulgarie
ie Lady Alice Stanley Richmond
re La Tosca

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AND SALMON

“’* Alexander Hill Gray
Duchess of Wellington
Harry Kirk (Tea)

Mme. Ravary
Old Glory (Rare)
Pierre Notting

Irish Fireflame Queen Mary
Joseph Hill Rayon d’Or
Lady Hillingdon Safrano
Lady Pirrie Sunburst
Louise Catherine Breslau Sunset
Marquise de Sinety Viscountess Enfield
Mrs. Aaron Ward Willowmere
MOSS ROSES.

I wish I knew why the moss roses are so

rarely seen in our American gardens.

If we give

re them the same generous treatment we give to
other roses, they will give us generously of their

unique and individual blooms.

Swinburne’s trib-

*: ute to the moss rose is so fitting:

“The rose is the face of a baby;
The moss, a bonnet of plush.”

There are varieties that have a long season

of bloom, namely: White Bath, the best (white),
Crested Moss, Pink Gracillis, also a pink, and
Salet, a delicate silvery tint.

Gaye Set oy oo ?
iS
FADES: Ree SR a

MME. CECILE BRUNNER
TRAINED AS A WEEPING STANDARD

Climbing Mme. Cecile Brunner is a most adaptable rose.
While its individual blooms in miniature form are the very
essence of daintiness, the canes produced are frequently
six and seven feet long and are flexible enough to train in
any desired position. Three year old plants grown in a
pot, and staked with three foot green bamboo stakes may
be trained as shown. The canes should be firmly tied to
the stakes. When these have grown a foot longer than the
stake (four feet) tie the tips, as in pegging, bending grad-
ually and with a gentle hand. As the canes lengthen,
the bending and tying continues lower down each time,
tying until the tip can be pegged to the soil in the pot.
aoe vie may now be loosened almost down to ae pee
ging. For the entire length
of the now weeping canes,
laterals will have sprung
with countless sprays of
Miniature roses that will
bloom for you almost until
November. Feed every ten
days with the Rose Food—
a half trowel for each plant.
Place the clay pots contain- Ae
ing these lovely weeping ie
Miniature roses in stone i
bowls or jars.

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MME. ABEL CHATENAY

I have often wondered why a rose of
such faithful charm as Mme. Abel Chatenay ”
is accepted as just a rose, when it is one of the
most beautiful roses grown to-day. It is im-
mune from all the rose afflictions and is a lavish
bloomer. Just plant a few bushes of Abel Chat-
enay in the testing-out bed, and then justly com-
pare her with the novelties there. Mme. Segond
Weber is another rose we do not value as she
deserves. Why, the half-open bloom of Mme.
Segond Weber is incomparable! (gold, salmon
and rose.) All the roses I name in the list of
““remarkable roses for the amateur” you may
plant with perfect confidence. They are not the
newest, but I think they are not excelled by any
of the newer or newest ones.

FRAU KARL DRUSCHKI

Frau Karl Druschki we find in almost every
garden, and it is much beloved, notwithstanding
the fact that it is voracious and very greedy, and
for this reason I do not think it is a good neigh-
bor. So I decided to grow it in the shrubbery,
just as we do Conrad F. Meyer. |

Two years ago last fall I planned a white ~—

te yo ° PASS
~) CAE ED: ED ASR EC ee

es AE RTP ONG RO EAN) ee ee aye iy Nn Es
Rae OOOO AEDES BW a) Pie

as could hold their own with this greedy
white beauty.

Philadelphus (mock orange) was the bas

family chosen—only the rarest and latest hybrids
Philadelphus “Norma,” was planted at a central
point, because she would grow ten feet tall and
because her branches are erect and bold. Then
came Bauniere, also tall, producing Semi-double
flowers, then grouping and spacing for natural
development came Conquete (not Coquette),
with double flowers exactly like a white tulip.
Conquete is rather pendulous and arching, which
made her particularly desirable next the bolder
group. Last came Boule d’Argent, a dwarf
Philadelphus. Spaces three feet wide were pro-
vided for Frau Karl Druschki and holes deep
and wide were dug, and lime was used liberally.
There was not a day throughout the entire Sum-
mer and Autumn that buds and opening flowers
were not cut from these Druschki rose bushes.
The spaces between and in front of them were
planted with white verbenas, which crept in and
out and even rested against the canes of the
Druschkis.

While all the Philadelphus are attractive,

ere 1 WS pital COx

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than others, and these in this white and

because of their different forms and different toa
certain extent in their flowering season and their
flowers. Some of these varieties cannot be found
in all nurseries, but I will be glad to inform any
subscribers desiring to know where they may be
had.

CAROLINE TESTOUT—THE BEST PINK
HARDY HYBRID TEA-ROSE THAT GROWS

Caroline Testout— why should we be sur-
prised by your stateliness, or your big fat pink
cheeks! Haven’t you bloomed and bloomed faith-
fully for many years? Aren’t you always the first
of your race to greet us in the Spring, and don’t
you linger on late into the Fall, joyfully brighten-
ing our gardens for us, never thinking of bidding
us an au revoir until after the first heavy frost?
Within a few months you will be twenty-seven
years old, and aren’t you still the queen of all
the bedding roses.

And what an amiable disposition you have,
for you grow and thrive and bloom almost any-
where, on a dry hillside, or in a pampered rose

SSE ee ES

Bros SBE ak a, SO reo Lae

“> green planting are exceptionally valuable pee

Sp ae ERC qa.
rn ea) >

you will give us, do I flatter you nee

sar I say you will give us the largest and most ae

gorgeous blooms of all the hybrid teas? You
ask for so very little and you gladly give us so
much. You enjoy having the soil kept stirred and
powdered—you are not greedy, Caroline—two
feedings a month are all you ask for. Tell me
how it is you can go so long without a drink?
And now, I want to repeat again that I really
think it is essential that we should know and in-
telligently understand garden work, so that we
may know the right and wrong method of the
work. Learn to thoroughly understand, and to
.2 know the right and wrong methods, by actually
“= working in your garden. Start boldly, go ahead
boldly after you havestarted. Make your mistakes
© and enjoy laughing about them. How easily gar-
den mistakes can be remedied— with so little effort
“2 except perhaps a little mental effort!

So I say, if you wish your garden to be suc-
cessful, work in it, make your mistakes, find out
under just what conditions the flowers will grow
best in it for you. Don’t be discouraged if you find
that you have planted pink geraniums and ma-
genta petunias with a “white blotch” together, as

<= garden unless you really have had the
doubtful pleasure and experience of making

mistakes, and you can’t be successful in your
garden if you do not tend your flowers, if you
do not love them, and our gardens cannot be
successful without these attentions, and no gar-
den can possibly have any individuality when
left to the entire care of the gardeners. Some-
one has said that “Individualism rests on the
principle that a man shall be his own master.”
I can think of no better way of expressing indi-
vidualism, except perhaps to make it read “Indi-
vidualism rests on the principle that a woman shall
be her own master.” And if there is one place

S where it is particularly desirable to be master,
‘ itis in our gardens. Don’t permit your gardener to

a) tell you—you tell him! And if there is one place

where individualism is particularly apparent, it is
in our gardens. Let them be part of you; not a re-
flection of someone else. Don’t let them suggest
that the only part you had in their making was
a monetary one.

How happy we amateur gardeners should be,
for gardening gives us such a beautiful interest in
life, an interest that need never flag. Each year

@ roy (2210 <p oa pra omy oe 2 oe = ney = . >)
Bee SESE AL GY CL Gy Bar Ox. LMs MES

= there are SO many new roses and

other flowers to test,somany newhybrid =<

a plants and shrubs to plan for, to study, and S&=
watch over, and the thrill and enjoyment their
care and development gives us during their first
summer in our gardens, amply repays us for all
the little worries.

I love to slip out alone and study and criticise,
and revel in my garden when the moon makes it
her playground. I can understand “Elizabeth in
Her German Garden” doing this very thing, for
our gardens are always the loveliest, the most
alluring, the most enchanting and the most be-

witching by moonlight.
Ll ‘fled

‘"N THE ROSE GARDEN” WAS ORIGINALLY DELIVERED AS ONE OF A SERIES OF “‘THREE INTIMATE GARDEN

TALKS” GIVEN AT THE COLONY CLUB, NEW YORK, ON MARCH TWENTY-SECOND, 1917, FOR THE BENEFIT
”?

OF THE “INTERNATIONAL CHILD WELFARE LEAGUE.

SUMMER SUN

AZ REAT is the sun, and wide he goes
74S Through empty heaven without repose;
7) And in the blue and glowing days
More thick than rain he showers his rays.

Though closer still the blinds we pull
To keep the shady parlour cool,

Yet he will find a chink or twa

To slip his golden fingers through,

The dusty attic spider-ciad

He, through the keyhole, maketh giad;
And through the golden edge of tiles,
Into the laddered hayloft smiles.

Meantime his golden face around

He bares to all the garden ground,
And sheds a warm and glittering look
Among the ivy’s inmost nook.

Above the hills, along the blue,

Round the bright air with footing true,
To please the child, to paint the rose,
The. gardener of the World, hé goes,

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON

PRINTED BY REQUEST. FROM “‘A CHILD’S GARDEN OF VERSES,” BY ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON, PUBLISHED BY THOS. B. MOSHER.

~ near us is natural. On a tiled terrace I saw
eleven Frau Karl Druschki tree roses, very
straight stemmed, with beautiful globular
heads, well staked, growing and flowering
lavishly in stone jars. Showering exquisitely over the
edge of the bowls was trailing alyssum. Four alyssum
plants edged a jar fifteen inches in diameter. Each of
the rose trees was fed every ten days with a pint of pul-
verized sheepfertilizer stirred into the surface and watered
with Scotch soot water (the formula of which I will
give later). Many flowers and maturing buds were on
each tree for more than four months. The globular
heads were kept gracefully round by discreet pruning.
On this same terrace were jars of Lathyrus White Pearl,
sometimes called miniature wistaria. The vines were
trained on dear little white, fan-shaped trellises, which
57

they completely covered. This is really a charming ter-
race vine. Itisalways in bloom, providing the faded flower
panicles are kept carefully cut and an inch of pulverized
sheep fertilizer and sprinkling of Scotch soot water be
spread over the surface of the bowls in which lathyrus
is grown. Trailing blue lobelia (Gracillis) showered admir-
ably over the sharp edges of the bowls. Five steps down
from the upper terrace was another tiled terrace. The
tiles had been removed the entire length to make a rose
border. It was about forty-five feet long, thirty inches
wide, and only eighteen inches deep. The roses were all
one variety, Old Gold, and were chosen because they are
immune from all the rose enemies and are most prolific
bloomers.

Dwarf heliotrope, the wonderfully lovely Elizabeth
Dennison, was used for the border—just one row— and
spaced ten inches apart. The plants soon spread, touching
shoulders, even crowding. Standards of heliotrope three
feet high were planted every four and a half feet the entire
length of the border. Here, always in view, was this bor-
der of heliotrope and roses, rarely beautiful, as you must
realize, and always abloom. Heliotrope, to be at its best
and happiest, needs just as much sunshine and just as
much food as the rose. This border was fed with rose
food every ten days. Just a light surface powdering, then
well stirred in. Four times during the Summer a water-
ing with nitrate of soda solution was given, one ounce to
two gallons of water. This is, I know, a very weak solu-
tion, but it is a very safe one. It was not sprinkled on, but
poured on the surface, of course not touching the foliage.
The blooms of the roses andheliotrope wereconscientiously

kept cut as they faded. Isaw this border the last time the
twentieth of October. It had escaped the one and only early
frost we had had up to that time, and was as beautiful
as it was when I first saw it in July. Old Gold is a
rose of great distinction. When not obtainable Mme. Abel
Chatenay could be substituted for Old Gold. It also is
immune from all the enemies of the rose, and while one of
our older roses, there are few lovelier. Mme. Bruant
or Mme. Lederle or any dwarf deep-toned heliotrope could
beused. Itisso simple and interesting to grow one’s own
heliotrope trees or standards. I know an amateur gar-
dener who, without any special effort, grew fifty heliotrope
trees and hundreds and hundreds of the dwarf heliotrope
plants taken from cuttings supplied by twenty-five plants
obtained at a nursery. I saw a pink rose border edged and
framed with the hybrid Viola Atropurpurea, so like a
great Russian Violet, hardy and always in bloom, if not
allowed to go to seed. The tall pink roses were Lady
Alice Stanley. Directly back of the border of violas was
a border of the miniature pink rose, Mme. Cecile Brun-
ner. Here, too, were abundantbloomsalmost to November.

In Augusta, Georgia, there is a rare, beautiful gar-
den, so impressive and so unusual. It was here I saw the
St. Brigid Anemone grown as a border to all the rose
beds. The effect was most charming. While the rose
plants were all in full foliage when I was there, no roses
were as yet in bloom, but the anemones were, thousands
and thousands of them. The St. Brigids are the anemones
we have seen in such abundance in the flower shops for
the past two or three winters. The colors are exquisite
pale blue and gray blue, willow china blue, flesh, rose,

lavender, scarlet, mauve, purple and white. These flow-
ers glorified this Southern garden for weeks before the
roses bloomed.

The anemone bulbs are strange, flattish looking and
peculiar. One finds it almost impossible to discover which
is the top or which is the bottom. There are a few fibrous
things growing on the top, which look like roots but are
really the beard. Avoid confusion by planting them on
their sides. Planted in late May or early June they will
bloom in July. Plant three inches deep and six inches
apart. Mix a little sand in the soil as you plant to make
the bulbs swell and expand, place in damp sand or even
in a pail of water for two or three days before planting.
By this treatment they will become several times the size
they were in their dry state, besides being made easier to
handle. Can you not picture a border of the St. Brigid
anemones with the dwarf deep blue Delphinium Chenesis ?
Don’t confuse these bulbous anemones with the tall grow-
ing herbaceous Japanese anemones. If you are not famil-
iar with both, don’t fail to study them.

You realize, do you not, amateur gardeners, that a
border of bulbous anemones will not detract from the
border of dwarf hybrid polyanthus roses you may have
bordering your rose bed or garden, because when the pol-
yanthus roses are at their best most of the anemones will
have bloomed. Only an occasional flower here and there
will remain. The foliage of the anemone may be cut to
within a few inches of the base; the few inches should
be allowed for the ripening of the bulbs. Where it is not
practical to leave the bulbs in the ground until the next
Spring they may be taken up and stored in the same way
as the canna and gladiolus.

A SUCCESSFUL ROSE GARDEN
DESIGNED FOR A FRIEND

N my friend’s garden I might say the house is right in the
garden. But the location of the house was unconsciously
=== settled by the farmer who had owned and lived on the
property for many years. After the house and farm buildings and
their thick stone foundations were removed, there remained sev-
eral excavations from four to six feet below the level of what had
been walks and walls, around the buildings, and so there was not a
great deal of earth to be removed that surrounded the foundations.
When I saw all the huge holes in the ground, and the piles of good
soil and earth that had been removed to take out the foundations,
the location of the house was settled! For here was a site that sug-
gested a natural sunken garden.

It was not necessary to remove much additional earth, and what
was removed we used for filling in elsewhere.

The sketch ““The Rose Garden from the South Fountain” visu-
alizes the scheme of planting and ‘‘garden features.”

THE ROSES PLANTED IN THE ROSE GARDEN

IN BED ‘‘A”
Lady Alice Stanley
Jonkheer J. L. Mock
Edging of Heliotrope
and
Heliotrope “‘Trees”’

IN BED “B”

Planted with only one
variety of rose

Mme. Cecile Brunner (Dwarf)

Edging of Heliotrope

IN BED “C”
Same as Bed “B’”’

IN SUN-DIAL BED “D”

Climbing Mme. Cecile
Brunner (around the
base of sun-dial)

Dwarf Mme. Cecile
Brunner as an edging
with dwarf purple
Heliotrope

IN BED “E”

Ophelia
Mme. Segond Weber ©
Betty
Old Gold
Lady Pirrie
Marquise de Sinety
Mrs. Aaron Ward
Miss Alice de Rothschild
Lady Roberts
Dean Hole
Mrs. Charles Lentaud
Mme. Melanie Soupert
Viscountess Folkstone
Duchess of Wellington
Prince de Bulgarie
Mme. Abel Chatenay
Dorothy Page Roberts
Irish Fireflame
Edging of Dwarf Mme.

Ravary

ARE

IN BED “F”
Same planting and varie-
ties as Bed “‘E”

IN BED “Q”
Same as Bed “E”’

IN BED “H”
Same as Bed “‘E”’

IN BED “I”

(All harmonious red roses)

Robin Hood

Edward Mawley

Laurent Carle

Mary Countess of
Iichester

Roberty Huey

General Mac Arthur

Richmond (Dwarf)

General Arnold Janssen

Etoile de France

Edging of very dwarf

«*Jessie”’ roses

IN BED “J”

William R. Smith

Kaiserin Augusta
Victoria

Mme. Jules Bouche

White Maman Cochet

Bessie Brown

British Queen

Alexander Hill Gray

Pharisaer

Ellen Wilmot

Edging of Marie Pavie
(miniature rose) and
dwarf heliotrope

IN BED “K”
Caroline Testout Standards
Two rows of dwarf

Caroline Testout
Edging of dwarf helio-
trope

IN BED “L”

(Against high wall)

Selected for all Summer to

late Fall blooms. (Climb-

ing and dwarf Bush)

Richmond (Red)

Climbing Gruss an Teplitz (Red)

Trier (Cream)

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria
(Cream)

Maman Cochet (Cream)

IN BED “M”

(Inside of Balustrade)
William Allen Richardson
and
Marquise de Sinety
This rose used with the
low climbing rose
William Allen Richardson
Edging of Heliotrope

IN BED “N”

(Back of Balustrade)

Marquise de Sinety (Standards)

Edging of George Elgar
miniature roses

IN BED “0”
Same as Bed “‘L”’
IN BED “P”
Same as Bed “K”’

IN BED “Q”
Same as Bed ‘“‘J’”’

From
e South Fountain

Shrubs are planted at the east and west ends of the semi-circular
wall enclosing the south end of the garden, continuing the “‘screen-
ing” of the greenhouses and vegetable garden. These shrubs as
well as the pyramidal evergreens on the terrace were planted at the
same time as the roses.

To relieve the South wall, which forms a semi-wall-in-garden,
from the feeling of constraint ‘‘walled-in” gardens frequently sug-
gest, the Fountain House (marked S on the plan) was introduced.
A sketch of it is indicated on the plan. It is located directly in the
centre of the garden and the South wall, and being roofless, permits
the growing of plants on the inside walls, back and around the foun-
tain. By passing through the door shown on the plan, the green-
houses and vegetable garden may be visited—they are but a few
steps off.

The tool and fertilizer houses are entered directly from the garden
through interesting, old wrought-iron gates. The tool house (marked
R on the plan), contains a work bench, shelves, tool racks for hanging
up tools, space for hose reels, lawn mowers, grindstone, wheelbarrow,
etc. There is a chart on the wall to register date of plantings,
feeding, blooming, etc.

Directly back of the tool house there are two underground recept-
acles each holding a barrel used for receiving garden litter, leaves,
etc., until put into the burner, and the ashes returned to the bed.

The fertilizer house (marked T on the plan) has shelves for the
necessary chemicals, bins for soot, bone meal, etc., a mixing bin, also
scales, harness hooks for hanging up the garden tubs. Both of these
‘‘houses”” have ample sinks set near the cement floors, which have
drains so they may frequently be flushed.

Each has a door leading to the greenhouses and vegetable garden
just beyond, and contain everything near at hand required for the
proper care of the garden.

The walks, of finely crushed grayish green gravel, are conveniently
wide for the use of wheelbarrows.

In front of the South Fountain House the walk is of light gray
green slate of an uneven surface and laid irregularly, with pieces of
almost every size and shape.

To avoid the continual care of trimming the grass border edges,
long, light ‘‘L’’ shaped lengths of iron about one quarter of an inch
thick were placed on the outside and inside edges of the grass
borders.

These irons were set about six inches below the level of the walk,
extending out about five inches under the walks and beds, and pro-
jecting just far enough above the surface so as to retain the soil and
yet remain barely noticeable; they of course do not interfere with
the use of the lawn mower, and certainly obviate the use of the
edge cutter. They have proved a great saving not only of time but
of labor as well.

The watering is quickly and easily accomplished through a gener-
ous number of hose connections at convenient points—(marked “@”’
on the plan). They are hidden from sight, and one is in no danger
of stumbling over them, as they are concealed close to the grass edging
in metal boxes set six inches into the ground, with a “lift up’’ cover
extending an inch above the ground. All faucets are provided with
what is known as ‘“‘a hydrant swivel’’, making it possible to turn the
hose in any direction without the usual kinking. ‘These swivels are
such comfort in a garden.

For garden fétes, electric light outlets are located close to the
grass edging just below the gravel of the walks—also back of the
‘“‘statue trellises.” There are also concealed reflectors back of the
South wall for night lighting when desired.

pvery letter, “Amateur Gardeners,” will be answered—
every garden need, every garden problem that confronts
you, puzzles you or worries you, write about it and if I
cannot help you solve it, I will see to it that those who
specialize in that particular problem, need or worry of

yours will do so.— oa re a

Q. “jJ.T.A.” Do you approve of potted rose plants?

A. Ido, indeed, for late or emergency planting. If you carefully
remove the pots, and enrich the holes in which the potted roses are
to be placed far more liberally than you do for dormant rose plants,
in a surprisingly short time these potted roses will bein bloom. Why?
Because they have an established root growth and receive little or no
check in being transplanted from pots to rose bed, if the soil around
them is undisturbed. I have seen complete rose gardens successfully
planted with potted roses. Always remove all the foliage and prune.

Q. “W.E.E.”’ The climbers on one side of an arch I wished
quickly covered with the Dr. Van Fleet rose grew very slowly in
comparison with the other side. Can I do anything to hurry it along?

A. Mrakea deep crescent-shaped depression around the slow-grow-
ing plants, and once a week give them a gallon of water in which one
ounce of Nitrate of Soda has been dissolved. Mid-week a pint of sheep
fertilizer stirred in a half gallon of water. Withhold all food from
the strong growing side. This stimulating and feeding will soon
hurry the growth to the top and even over the arch.

Q. “C.F.P.”’ So few of my Jonkheer L. Mock roses would fully
Open; sometimes one side would partially open, etc.
A, Cut the blooms only when four petals at least are open. Do

not cut them in the tight bud stage. They will open beautifully if
cut only when partially blown. y F

Q. “j.P.”? You spoke of a delphinium screen in the “First Talk’’
at the Colony Club last March. The idea appeals to me very much.
Will you give the names of the varieties for a low screen, etc.?

A. Delphininium Belladonna Grandiflora is the variety of del-
phinium for your screen, because of the extreme beauty and con-
tinuous blooming habit of grandiflora. The effect will be as a cloud
of blue from early Summer until killing frost. Space your plants
one foot apart each way and have at least two or three rows of
plants. Keep faded blooms cut, removing the flower stalk with them
also, to within a foot of the base. After each cutting down of the
faded flower and stalks, rose food should be thoroughly worked
into the surface of the soil around the plants, taking care not to
injure the roots which are very near the surface. This feeding will
positively insure more blooms and fine blooms. It rests with you
whether you have these enchantingly lovely flowers all through the
Summer and Autumn. If you save the seed of just one flower spike, this
one flower spike will produce enough seed to increase your stock of this
variety of delphinium a hundred-fold, besides it comes true to name.

* * *

Q. ‘“V.S.P.” Inanewly planted rose garden of nearly a thousand
plants, should one not allow even a single bloom to mature until
September?

A. To permit no blooms at all of newly planted stock is the theo-
retical method, but I have planned several rose gardens where a bloom
or two was permitted on each plant without any appreciable lack of
late blooms, even compared with the established roses, and in the
second year the blooms were as abundant and lovely in size and
substance, as those in older rose gathens.

Q. “J.F.S.” Last Spring I planted ten heavy plants of the Silver
Moon rose. They grew amazingly and produced long, strong canes,
but no blooms. The foliage was very beautiful and nothing disfigured
it. Why did the plants not bloom, etc., etc.?

A. Your Silver Moon roses will bloom this Spring. Had you
planted them in the Fall they would have bloomed the next Spring,
but not when Spring planted will they bloom the same Spring.

All other ‘“QUESTIONS” are fully answered “IN THE ROSE
GARDEN.”

FORMULAS OF PLANT FOODS

we SOOT WATER M3

a soaking with soot water, a quarter trowel of Scotch soot to two gal-
lons of water, this will check further defoliation.
Sulphate of iron is of tremendous value. It supplies the very
=) element we never as a rule think of returning to the soil—that is iron.
Tt t must be used with great care, not more than one half an ounce to each rose
plant, and cultivate it into the soil. This sulphate of iron will make your plants
better able to resist the rose blights.

A QUICK-ACTING FOOD—A STIMULANT TO BE GIVEN
JUST BEFORE FLOWERING

Dissolve in four (4) gallons of water, nitrate of Soda one ounce, Phosphate of
Potash one ounce.

Pour on the scuffled up surface of the rose bed, not wetting or splashing the
foliage. If each rose plant receives two quarts approximately that will be quite
sufficient. When made in large quantities it may be used just as liquid manure
is used. To bring promising buds to a lovely maturity this chemical liquid-
fertilizer is of the greatest value.

MY EMULSION OCF SCOTCH SOOT

Where rose beetle grubs and chafers are becoming abundant and destructive,
hoe up the surface soil to a depth of several inches, particularly near the edges.
Grubs an inch long and a quarter inch wide will no doubt be unearthed—several
will be found together, sometimes a dozen in a space of a few inches. These
grubs are in the soil, just under the surface, for two and sometimes three years,
before they evolve into rose beetles, chafers, etc.

Pour over these groups an emulsion of soot and lime and sulphur, mixed with
a wooden paddle by thorough stirring in the sprinkling can (using a two gallon
can.) Using one ounce of the prepared mixed lime and sulphur and two ounces
of scotch soot. Wherever these horrid grubs are, you will positively rid the soil
of them by using this emulsion.

MY ROSE FOOD
10 parts pulverized sheep manure.
3 parts flour of bone.

1 part Scotch soot.
All to be thoroughly mixed together.

If your hybrid tea and tea roses do not bloom as freely as in previous Summers,
scuffle up the soil as deeply as possible without injury to the roots and sift air
slacked lime (that is just a powdering) all over the bed, then give a liberal feeding
of the ‘“Rose Food”’ (a half trowel to each plant), stir thoroughly, forming a saucer
around the plant as you work, fill with water again and again, and in a very short
time you will see a remarkable improvement. This treatment should not be
confused with safe stimulation. The lime is to start an invigorated root action,
the food to nourish.

ORDERING ROSES

Consult the catalogues and make a list of the varieties desired, and let me suggest that you
place your order as early as possible for Spring or Fall planting.

I prefer three year old roses when obtainable, and potted roses should be ordered for late
Spring, Summer and emergency planting.

When ordering standards or half standards, state that only stems budded on both sides will be
accepted. If budded on one side only, the grace and charm of the tree rose is utterly lost.
Usually it is necessary to order roses from several firms, as one firm does not always carry all the
varieties desired. I have found the following ‘“‘Order Form” very satisfactory:

Wate. 220s ee ee =
(Name of Grower)
(Address)
Dear Sir:—Please enter my order for the following..................- year old rose plants:
Quantity Name Variety

(Bush Standard, etc.)

(If you cannot supply any of these roses, please notify me by return post, as I do not wish any other varieties substituted)

(If substitution is agreeable—state varieties acceptable.)

You may substitute for any varieties not in stock the following roses:

erence wenn ee enn nnn ne ee nce meen nnn en es eee nnn nnn ne nnn cere ence eewen nm eene we ee nn ne rew enn nnncmwe mmo mnnnnenwaneennwns ann nnenan- <0 0e0---0- 38 8-nenens-see

All of the above roses shall be strong, healthy, home-grown, low-budded, dormant, field-grown
two or three-year-old plants, true to name.

Ship Rosesion) i.e ee De ee ee
By Express to By Freight to
ie ee ee nn
a Me Sy a iam nn OMI rEg)

This order is subject to the above conditions—kindly confirm same promptly.

( re ter Name ca Se ee aes
Telegraph address {

Welepptiorne oes osc soos ee TN ee nae ee

HRS AS

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; ae Seti OS), HS28 LSE |
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‘one. == = SSS SS SE CSO R CE STR OSCE SVS SESS SCHSS SHES ES GSS ESSE SS ESSE SESS EERE ERE EEE

AZ \ ll subscribers are requested to contribute short articles to
*= Our Garden Forum relative to their garden experiences, suc-
“+ cesses and difficulties, and matters of interest pertaining to

4 unusual garden conditions, the whims of flowers, etc.
* * *

Editor Our Garden Journal:

The need of a garden magazine unbiased in outlook and devoted
entirely to the interest of the amateur is apparent.

We have catalogues both elaborate and stimulating, but sometimes
illusory. We have cyclopaedias—accurate, but ponderous, alas, in
form and substance. We have timely magazines controlled or in-
fluenced by commercial growers. But we have as yet no source of
inspiration and information in the form of a publication by amateurs
for amateurs—except the Bulletin of the Garden Club of America,
which is necessarily limited in scope.

The real value of a plant or flower is often best estimated by a per-
son who has nothing to gain or lose in the full presentation of plain
facts. In addition, the amateur has the opportunity through greater
leisure to note with calm impartiality many things which might
escape the hurried though trained eye of the nurseryman.

The development of a larger horticulture in this country has here-

tofore rested mainly with professionals, many of whom have honestly
and unselfishly devoted much effort towards its advancement.
In view, however, of the very practical and active interest in their
own extensive gardens now shown by amateurs it would seem that
the time has arrived for them to assume distinctive leadership in
America as they have done in England. A magazine conducted en-
tirely by amateurs will greatly help towardsthisend. H.A. New York.
* * *
“GEORGE DICKSON ROSES”

All the catalogues I received spoke so glowingly of a hybrid tea
rose, George Dickson, that I ordered three dozen ‘‘strong two-year-old
plants.’’ Some of the claims the catalogues made for ‘“‘George Dick-
son’? were: ‘Free from mildew, black spot and rust—does not turn
blue. Robust, but graceful, etc.”’ These were a few of the advan-
tageous claims made for the George Dickson rose. My experience
was that it bloomed for a shorter time than the four varieties of
hybrid perpetual roses I grow. The George Dickson roses bloomed
just once, and such a number of rose diseases attacked them. They
grew into great irregular bushes without any grace at all. The
blooms were really splendid and beautiful for a day or two and then
they turned bluish. Personally I would call it a hybrid perpetual.
I certainly would not class it asa hybrid tea. J.F.P. Radnor, Pa.

* * *

Why do they list this rose as a hybrid tea? For two Summers I
have grown George Dickson, and only once did it bloom. They be-
came such an eyesore with black spot (although my other roses are
comparatively free from it) that I had them all removed this Spring.

W.K.E. New York.

My experience with George Dickson has been almost identical
with J.F.P.’s and W.K.E.’s.—(Editor.)

* * *
“OPHELIA ROSES”

Perhaps other amateurs might be interested to know that the
Ophelia rose is a very satisfactory rose for out-door growing. I
planted a bed of Ophelias last Spring and I had roses from them six
weeks after they were planted. H.S.G. Brookline, Mass.

a IN KS
THE BOOK OF THE PEONY

To those who love the peony, Mrs.
Edward Harding’s recently published
book comes as a revelation. Those
of us who have grown the peony for
years must realize after reading this
book, how little, how meager indeed
has been our knowledge of the peony.

From thecharming Japanese Hakku,
which heads the first chapter

‘Full of set flowers,
Full is my chamber;
Thou art most stately
White peony.”

down to the mention of the recently formed peony society in the
Northwest, the author delves into the fascinating lore and history
of this flower. The peony is one of the three royal flowers of Japan.
This volume is royal in its illustrations and typography. All the chap-
ters are interesting, many of them of peculiar worth to the amateur.

Chapter Five on “‘Purchasing”’ gives facts and experiences in refer-
ence to buying that will be most welcome to peony lovers, whether
they have just started or are well along the road towards forming a
collection.

It was a coincidence that the author and I should meet a day after
I had read ‘“‘The Book Of The Peony.” I asked Mrs. Harding if she
worked very hardin her garden. ‘‘Work hard,”’ she exclaimed, “indeed
I do, the actual work is, to me, one half the joy of gardening!’’

It is only actual garden work, deep study, research and patient
perseverance that could have made possible the writing of this most
important, valuable and authoritative work.

I prophesy that ‘“The Book Of The Peony.”’ is destined to become
a treasured volume in the library of every garden lover.

It is published by the J. B. Lippincott Company, Philadelphia,
which I compliment on this fine example of the art of book making.

ode

BOOKS RECEIVED
(TO BE REVIEWED LATER)

“Flower Culture Month By Month’? By Mary Hampden...................-+- (Brentano’s)
“The Joyous Art of Gardening” By Frances Duncan............... (Charles Scribner’s Sons)
“The Livable House, Its Garden’? By Ruth Dean.............. (Moffat, Yard and Company)
“The Practical Book of Outdoor Rose Growing” By George C. Thomas, Jr.. (J.B. Lippincott Co.)
“Wayside Flowers of Summer”? By Harriet L. Keeler............... (Charles Scribner’s Sons)

FROCKS sup FLOWERS

THE FLOWER=the highest
development of the plant
kingdom, beautiful beyond
nature's other offerings be-
cause of its simplicity-——
freshness and colorings=

ae,
{s it not like a Peele trek son.

Frock-likewise the most beau-
tiful development in the kingdom
of dress, presenting a kindred.
charm because of its rich sim-=
plicity its fresh youthfulness and
its wonderful colorings?

he imcomparable style of the
: Giickeon Frock has carried its

fame even to Paris =

INC.

FIFTH AVENUE AT FIFTY

SECOND STREET-NEW YORK
BOSTON,MASS. PALM BEACH, FLA.
MAGNOLIA ,MASS. PARIS,FRANCE-

ORIGINAL CREATIONS IN GARDEN SMOCKS

TREAT inn aan aaEEEEREEEEEEEEe ta, ——<——<—<—<$$———————

GARDEN NOTES

t should be just a matter of course that the garden be our
first care every day. Work in the cool of the morning.
Allow nothing to interfere with your garden work.

Use the hose less, and the hoe more.

A low broad camp-stool is such a garden comfort.

Always rub pruners or shears with a piece of oiled cheesecloth
just before hanging up.

Protect your hands by always wearing your garden gloves when
working.

Hairpins are a garden help to hold down a spray, a vine end, or a
creeping bit of green.

Make a special effort to learn the correct method of pruning. There
is a great fascination in it.

When cultivating don’t start the work too strenuously. If you do,
you will tire and lose interest.

You will experience much justifiable pride when you realize that
you can name every rose in your garden.

Have at least two flat garden baskets for your own use; one for
faded flowers, one for freshly cut flowers.

Grow a few roses in pots to replace possible failures. They may be
transplanted without the slightest check.

Little caps made of paraffine paper put on your choicest blooms
when spraying will protect them from possible disfigurement.

Keep a garden book—just a simple blank book, for a quickly made
note that you think you can remember—but frequently forget.

A trowel fitted with a long handle will enable you to work without
stooping or kneeling. A broom or rake handle will answer.

Keep your pruners sharp—a large pruner for large things and a
small pruner for small things, and a pair of very large shears will be
most helpful for shearing.

VAT Taira ee) ie TTA PUTT EOE Tn OTe imi it (iat anit TUT i AD m1 MU Te

a cc wn ee Ta eT ERA HOTT |
: R.VERNAY has

on exhibition a
number of interest-
ing early lead fig-
ures and garden
ornaments. There
are also a few rare
old sun-dials.

a i

CAAA

| Lead fisure on stone plinth
| One of a set representing
= the four Seasons.
OLD EXGUSH FURNITURE SIDER PORCEIAN POTTERY U'GLASSUAE

NEW YORK, 10, 12, 14 East Forty-F1FTH ST.
BOSTON, 282 Dartmoutu St.
LONDON, W., 217 PiccapILLy

UU Oe eee ee eee WU UAB Te

OOOO ET CO TUTDATUUA UEC VCIM ECU MANDAN OLOQUTOTOQ OVA CQYCCQUUOOQUALCTUUVOUCQUUCOUUTUCCUUCOUUUOOUOTOTUTUOL ECU CUERUNEUCA CCU CCT LSC CUU AEA LUST CUU CUCU Le

SP UUULTUELE PVTTUVITIU TEFL EUO TEN UNCER MOOT NLU

ALT

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GARDEN NOTES

Time and trouble may be saved by thumbing off short new shoots
growing in the wrong direction, which if permitted to grow will de-
tract from the grace of the plant, necessitating the cutting away later
on.

Use the long-handled, three-tined kitchen fork for cultivating in
closely planted places. Always use a kneeling pad or cushion when
kneeling is necessary. In doing certain garden work, I find kneeling
less tiring than stooping or bending.

An awning, small and attractive, attached to four green wooden
stakes made of the same material as the house awnings, is a real
garden comfort, because it will protect the newly transplanted rose
from the sun until it recovers from the shock of transplanting.

Wire stretched across lattice, fan trellis, or any support for climbing
roses is a most practical way for tying individual canes. The wire
will be invisible when the plant is in leaf. Every cane may have an
independent position, and a wire for its very own support and train-
ing. Tie loosely (using green or brown tape) the cane to the wire,
not the wire to the rose canes.

Three pairs of gloves will suffice to carry you through five months of
garden work. Saturate one pair thoroughly with white vaseline.
Keep one pair for cutting flowers. Boys’ thick cadet gloves are what
I use.

The reason for using vaseline to treat one pair of gloves is, that
when using a hose, spraying, etc., the moisture will not penetrate.

Keep your own tools separate from the gardener’s tools.

A great comfort in the garden is a small wagon fitted with covered
tins for plant stimulants and foods, your kneeling pad and small
garden tools. I drag my wagon everywhere I go in the garden. I
have the brown, kitchen (sugar kind) tins, without labels, for my
wagon—an oiled cloth for cleaning my tools. These may readily be
removed and replaced by the “Sprayer.”’ (The little ‘‘snap shoot”
shows the sprayer ready for use.)

In the tool house is a shelf just for my own use. The sulphur
shaker, seed shaker, my boxes of sharp sand, box of block charcoal,
etc. (everything I need in my garden), is there.

THE GARDEN WAGON

NEW YORK

ALBERT KELLER Geners/Manaser

—S—aSSS eee

” THE JAPANESE GARDEN “bs
103 OPENS ae

~ ABOUT JUNE, FIRST
5 THIS WONDERFULLY UNIQUE OUT-OF-DOORS
@\V~ RESTAURANT.WITH ITS STREAM OF RUNNING

WATER ITS ARTISTIC PAGODAS, ITS EXQUISITE
ROCK AND FLORAL WORK AND MINIATURE
BRIDGES,ALL THE WORK OF LEADING JAPAN-
ESE ARTISANS AND LANDSCAPE GARDENERS
@ 15 THE ACCEPTED MEETING PLACE OF SOCIETY

| FOR LUNCHEON AND TEA

\* THE ROOF GARDEN ce
: OPENS
tgs EARLY IN JUNE abe
(Qs. MARKS THE BEGINNING OF THE SUM:

oo 782 MER. SEASON IN NEW YORK.NO OPED:
Be \7.G~ ‘AIR DINING PLACEIN AMERICA HAS
3, Weiss BEEN THE SCENE OF SOMANY BRILLIANT .
> GATHERINGS. IN FURNISHINGS SERVICE
MUSIC AND CUISINE IT ESTABLISHES
THE HIGHEST NOTE OF
PERFECTION

ray |

mane, s

FOR YOUR ENJOYMENT NOW AND
TO IMMEDIATELY COMPLETE
YOUR LANDSCAPE COMPOSITION

HICKS TREES
FROM OUR NURSERIES

LARGE, BROAD, SYMMETRICAL DECIDUOUS TREES
THAT ARE 20 TO 45 FEET HIGH. (GROWN 10 TO 30
FEET APART AND SAVING 10 TO 30: YEARS OVER THE
USUAL SIZE TREES SOLD BY NURSERYMEN
TREES SHIPPED AND SUCCESSFULLY TRANSPLANTED IN MID-SUMMER,
DELIVERED BY MOTOR TRUCKS 75 MILES FROM NEW YORK. WHEN
LEAVES ARE OFF, THEY CAN BE SHIPPED 1000 MILES

LARGER DECIDUOUS TREES

UP TO 60 FEET HIGH THAT WE HAVE PURCHASED ABOUT THE COUNTRY

EVERGREENS—10 to 35 feet high

WE MOVE TO YOUR GROUNDS LARGE TREES FROM ANYWHERE IN YOUR VICINITY. EVER-
GREENS THAT CAN BE TRANSPLANTED IN MID-SUMMER TO SCREEN UNDESIRABLE
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| AN AMATEUR GARDENER AND THE AMATEUR GARDENER’S RAKE

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OUR GARDEN JOURNAL

An Mustrated Quarterl
Conducted and Controlled
By Amateur flower Gardeners
Devoted eee nic

O
The Art of Flower Gardening
for the Amateur Gardener.
Edited and Written by
Mrs. Herbert Harde

CONTENTS OF THIS ISSUE

SEPTEMBER, 1917

OURS—Poem Minne Irving PaGE
EVERGREENS AND SHRUBS Elinore E. Harde 1
EREMURI 34
GARDEN TREASURES 36
PEONIES 44
JAPANESE ANEMONES 47
MADONNA LILIES 48
SOME BULBS AND ROOTS 49
EXCEPTIONAL PERENNIALS 51
SEEDS THAT SHOULD BE SOWN IN THE FALL 54
CERTAIN ROSES THAT MUST BE PLANTED THIS FALL FOR ROSES

NEXT JUNE 56
SOME THINGS I LEARNED FROM AN OLD HOLLAND NURSERYMAN 58
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 60
OUR GARDEN FORUM 63
SOME NEW GARDEN BOOKS 66

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS FOR FALL PLANTING
GARDEN NOTES
ILLUSTRATIONS
IRISES

THE FOUNTAIN
THE SHRUBBERY
GARDEN SENTINELS

PUBLISHED BY OUR GARDEN JOURNAL
AT FIFTY SIX WEST FORTY FIFTH STREET,NEW YORK
SUBSCRIPTION skXX DOLLARS THE YEAR-BY INVITATION ONLY

Copyrighted Ninetsen Seventeen ByElinoref Harde

. Ne PPRECIATION, I have been told, is something

Wa we find only in the dictionary. I am apprecia-
“> tive, however, and I would seem not only unap-
preciative but it would be ungracious not to make some
acknowledgment of the numerous letters and telegrams
I have received. I have answered personally as many
as possible, and I am taking advantage of the pages of
“Our Garden Journal” now to thank, to thank deeply
and sincerely, all subscribers who have written me such
wonderful letters congratulating me on the first number

f “Our Garden Journal.”
Lhk Sfleidle

Rate The hue of Canterbury bells,

KAO, larkspur blowing in the breeze
Or blue-bells deep in dewy dells

! saw a host of milky stars

That shone and twinkled big and bright
And dazzled me with radiance

Undimmed by cloud or mist of night.

! saw a blaze of scarlet Flowers
The proud poinsettias vivid red
Or tulips Flaming in the sun

Or poppies to the morning spread.
With rows of stately lilies white
As snows upon a mountain crag
And I saluted as I gazed

For | was looking at the Flag.

MINNA IRVING

BY THE COURTESY OF THE NEW YORK SUN

III

GARDEN SENTINELS

RECEIVED FROM SUBSCRIBERS;
ASKING THAT INVITATIONS BE 3.
SENT TO FRIENDS TO BECONE 1d
SUBSCRIBERS IO CDIBICIDBOOS

Our, Gagpen JourNat
‘THIS Is TO ANNOUNCE

“THAT INVITATIONS WILL BE SENT @
UPON REQUEST TO SUBSCRIBERS
‘WHO DESIRE TO PROPOSE FRIENDS
HAVING GARDENS OR WHO ARE 63
MEMBERS OF GARDEN cLuns. 3S

Qesweans THe NANCY ReQuesrs

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7? RTHUR BENSON, in describing charm, says:
| “It seems to arise partly out of a subtle order-
liness and a simple appropriateness and froma
2==== 2 blending of delicate and pathetic elements of a
sagen unascertained proportion. It seems to touch un-
known memories into life and to give a hint of the work-
ings of some whimsical, half tenderly conceived spirit

brooding over its work, adding a touch here, and a dash

of colour there, and pleased to see when all is done
, that it is good.”

And this description of charm suggests to
me so much that is desirable in our shrub-
beries. Today the artistic Amateur
Gardener does not overlook the _ .«
value of color blending, of propor- | —
tion, of balance, of unity, and by

unity I mean the spleridid harmonious mass plant-
ings that we find in so many gardens, the plant-
ings that have replaced the unlovely discordant
“mixed” shrubbery and “dot” plantings of former
years.

Amateur Gardeners, we owe So much to the
noble family of evergreens; I wonder if you real-
ize how much?

When the sun has hidden his face for days
and days, how these friendly evergreens cheer and
rest us. To me they are so indescribably comfort-
ing, so soothing that I can look at them admiringly
for hours and hours. To me they say more with
their loftiness, their true uprightness, and I might
say give me more pleasure than the dazzling color,
than the blooms of countless flowers, and when
all our radiant summer treasures are blanketed
with leaves and hay and coal ashes, these faithful
enduringly green garden sentinels are not less |~
beautiful, but more beautiful when snow powdered |
<<. orglistening with icy tear-drops. Itis perhaps then x
“| that we value and appreciate their beauty more )”
-<) than we doat any other time; at this time we real- ( ~
ize more than ever the appreciation of them that (%

ek el

inspired Joseph Addison to say, “ That they fill the
mind with calmness and tranquillity, that they lay
all its turbulent passions at rest, that they give us
a great insight into the contrivance and wisdom of
Providence and suggest innumerable subjects for
meditation. I cannot but think the very compla-
cency and satisfaction which we take in these
works of Nature to be a laudable if not a virtuous
habit of mind.”

I know of a sky-line planting of pyramidal
evergreens that immediately gave to an uninter-
esting, flat, unbeautiful landscape an individuality,
a charm almost unbelievable. Groups of pyram-
idal red cedars (Juniperus virginiana) of dif-
ferent heights were spaced irregularly, together
with white spruce, and brought to an insignificant,
uninteresting view an opulence, a dignity, that
countless other things planted there still left
mediocre and flat.

The white spruce grows so fast, isso robustly “>
», graceful, so richly green, and its pale, tender tips |”
“. in the Spring are so lovely. Grouped with them | oe

ay were Nordmann’s firs—they branched to the very een
») ground—and white firs were near for the con- © ’

trast of their silvery needles; feathery hemlocks
and formally clipped Japanese cypress, then trim
globes of Arborvitae, with low-growing, spreading,
trailing Japanese juniper and dwarf mountain
Pine (Pinus mughus). Oh! I promise you (with
this enduringly beautiful picture for your very
own) numberless hours of self-satisfaction and
real delight. Each year you may add to your
collection such evergreens as may appeal to you,
and sometime, well in advance of these, I ask
you to plant a group of the gold and bronze
Japanese maples.

WHEN TO PLANT

I think the Fall is the best time to plant.
Perhaps I think so because we have more time
for it then and we shorten the time of waiting for
results and defy the lingering Spring frosts and

» uncertain weather.

If we do our planting in the Fall it may be

met done without the strain, the rush, and the hurry
-~) always experienced in the Spring, when almost | ™
>») six months of work must be done in one, and for ;

this reason alone, if for no other, we should

complish in the early Fall everything that need
not be done in the Spring. Shrubs and ever-
greens planted in the Fall are usually well estab-
lished by the following Spring, and they are hardy
enough to go through their first Winter with a
slight protection, which it is important they
should have. I do not protect them after the
first Winter. I have found that evergreens can
be planted almost any time it is convenient, and
we may have immediately the effects we desire.
But naturally the best time is either in the Spring
or early Fall—I prefer the early Fall, September
preferably, as August we know is usually a very
dry month.

PLANTING EVERGREENS

For me there is but one correct method of
planting evergreens, and I will describe it as com-
prehensibly as possible; but before doing so I wish

| to tell you that last Fall—to be exact, the last {77
4, week in September—I personally superintended

the planting of over two hundred valuable ever-

) greens, of almost every size and shape imaginable;

Spruces, slender Irish Junipers, White Pines of
varying heights, Nordmann’s Firs, Oriental
Spruces, White Firs, Hemlocks, Japanese Cy-
press, Oriental Arborvitaes, Siberian Arborvitaes,
Douglas Firs, Blue Spruces, Retinosporas plu-
mosa, Mughus Pines, etc., etc.

It is but natural that I was anxiously inter-
ested as to how they had wintered, and whether
they had become established. My friend forwhom
I selected the varieties, and which I watched over
in the preparation and their planting, would not
tell me how they had come through their first
Winter in their new environment. She said I
must see for myself and she looked extremely non-
committal, so I could not know how they had win-
tered until I had seen them.

This Spring we went over for a week-end visit
and to inspect the success or failure of a large ex-
penditure, for which I felt myself morally respon-
sible. I could hardly wait to see the result; and
as the motor neared the new home of this plant-

ing, my friend commanded me to shut my eyes
until she said “now.” My friend said “NOW.”
I opened my eyes. I looked with fear and dread, “=

) were removed so that all of the stock might be

Amateur Gardeners—but oh, what relief, the
satisfaction and I’m afraid just a little bit of smug
pride did I feel! They all had wintered marvel-
ously, all but one, a smallish blue spruce. Why,
I could hardly believe my eyes, as I fully expected
some failures, for there were the trees thriving,
growing, at home, as though nature had planted
them there. Some had pale green new growth,
some tiny white tips, some losing a certain “ fight-
for-my-life look” but all growing! I was so happy
and my friend was excitedly so.

When we saw how successful this planting
was we felt amply compensated for the thorough
preparation and careful planting. For every hole
had been dug and a clearly marked stake in each
indicated just what variety, height and form was
to be planted in each hole, and all was in readi-
ness before the evergreens arrived.

Just as soon as the great long boxes and bulky
burlapped bales arrived the boxes were opened
and the stock given a thorough hosing, not only
from the top, but the slats at the sides of the boxes

refreshed after their journey from the nursery.
_& i.

The burlapped bales were also well hosed for the
same reason. I always have this done, even
though the planting is proceeded with at once or
within a few hours. It is extremely important
that planting should be done without delay, but if
the newly arrived stock cannot be planted within
a day or two it should be carefully “heeled in”’
in a sun-protected spot, where there is good drain-
age. Of course, you know the burlap around the
balls of earth should not be removed when “ heel-
ing in,’ and we must see to it that they are not
permitted to want for water. It is just this per-
sonal interest, Amateur Gardeners, and co-oper-
ation that means so much for the success of what
we plant, and the deeper and more sustained in-
terest of our gardeners.

The holes were made accordingly. Naturally

alittle Mughus pine eighteen inches high with

an equal spread did not require the hole neces-
sary for an eight-foot White Spruce. The earth
as it was dug out was thrown against a standing

\builder’s screen and then heaped at the side of

each hole. The idea was to have fine loose earth a

been very dry weather, making the screening of
the soil simple and speedy.

Every hole was dug nearly two feet deep,
even for the little trees, and some of the holes
were over four feet deep—not one was less than
thirty inches wide and some very much wider.
After the digging and a pick had loosened the
soil at the bottom, each hole was filled with water
again and again.

Where good soil was not found it was pro-
vided, and where the subsoil was sticky wet
clay, drainage was provided by introducing a
layer of stones at the bottom of the holes. No
fertilizer of any kind was used inthe holes. None
of the trees were planted deeper than the soil
mark showed they had been planted in the nur-
sery. I know some writers advise planting deeper
than the nursery planting, but I have found that the
settlement after planting accomplishes the some-

what deeper planting that is sometimes advised. Ke
As each tree, large and small, had come Ue
“balled,” each ball remained intact, because they §”

end =)
») had been thoroughly “soaked,” as I have men- a

spread out, it soon rotted. When each hole was
filled with good soil to within a few inches of the
top, the heaviest of the men trod in the loose

soil, beginning at the outer edge and working in

toward the base of the tree; a saucer-like de-
pression being left for filling with water. As each
hole had been filled again and again with water
before planting, watering was not done until the
next day, because of the press of work and the
knowledge that sufficient moisture had been pro-
vided. Protection was provided only after there
had been a killing top frost, not after a mere
blighting one. There is such a difference, you
know, Amateur Gardeners, between a killing and
ablighting frost. The protection consisted of one-
quarter rotted stable manure and three-quarters
soil well mixed and spread about four inches deep
over the entire surface of the recently filled holes.
This Spring the protecting mulch was “forked in”
each hole, every particle of it incorporated, and so

. providing a moisture-holding mulch. ky
PREPARATION FOR DECIDUOUS SHRUBS }—

The holes that are to receive our deciduous ‘§
shrubs should be made in the same manner as °

_ > c—

we prepared them for the evergreens. (I received
a letter from a subscriber telling me how a car-
load of valuable rhododendrons was completely
lost by the inadequate and careless preparation of
the holes. (The letter is in the Forum of this
edition of “Our Garden Journal.”’)

The new shrub stock should have all broken
roots, dead wood and a foot or two of the top cut
away. Be certain that the soil at the bottom of
the hole has been loosened with a pick. Using a
pick is quicker, better and easier than a spade for
this work.

See that each hole is filled again and yet
again with water, which will provide moisture
for a long time deep down.

The screened soil for filling should have one-
quarter its bulk of rotted stable manure mixed
with it very thoroughly. Fill in the bottom of
the hole with enough of the manured soil so that

the shrub will be planted no deeper than the ies

~) mark shows it was planted in the nursery.

After the shrub is set in position, the earth oe
» should be filled in and firmly, very firmly trodden (—

=) down, leaving the usual saucer-like depression.

Deciduous shrubs may be mulched immedi-
ately after planting with what will be also a pro-
tection, namely, one-half rotted stable manure
and one-half soil thoroughly mixed; four or five
inches will be sufficient. This protection mulch, |
as I have said, serves also to conserve moisture.

WATERING NEWLY
PLANTED
EVERGREENS

Just think of all the beautiful evergreens and
trees and shrubs that have been sacrificed simply
for the need of water. As a rule, the nurseryman
is blamed and the loss laid at his door, when really
we and only we are to blame. If, Amateur Gar-
deners, we would make a point of superintending
the thorough watering, the spraying with water
from tip to base of our evergreens after planting—

Bi that is, if there is no rain within two or three days | |
“< after planting—and see toit that ournewly planted ¢ 7

i treasures are thoroughly watered, the foliage

*? sprayed at least twice a week during dry weather,

and the surface mulch kept stirred—if this were

done, very little new stock would fail or die; that
is, if it has been correctly planted. Perhaps one
of the most essential, most necessary aids to the
life of newly planted stock is the filling of the wide
and deep holes again and again with water before
planting. By doing this we know there is moisture
below, moisture deep and cool far down into the
earth below the roots that have been for days and
days tightly tied up in balls encased in burlap.
Therefore, Amateur Gardeners, does it not appear
to you as reasonable and natural that this water-
ing is indeed a vital thing ? For example, after a
tree, say an eight-foot White Spruce or'a Red
Cedar of equal height is planted in a great liberal
hole which has been filled to its brim several times
with water and then fine screened soil has been
packed and well trod in and again trod in, and
_ watering from the surface done with thoroughness
ad and a mulch provided which will hold this moisture
| under it for a week, does it not seem to you quite
_, the normal thing that this Spruce or Red Cedar,

ae!
i

they do not receive drink it will astonish you how
quickly they will be beyond the need of it, for they
cannot live without water, and it is astounding
how quickly these valuable acquisitions to the
garden will die for lack of it.

After planting dormant deciduous shrubs and
they have received the mulch of rotted stable
manure and soil mixed together, which also serves
for their winter protection, no watering is neces-
sary, for they are dormant, asleep; but the spruces
and cedars and pines are not asleep—they are
awake, alive, and after correct planting it is the
watering at given times that will keep them alive.
If there is rain, that is rain that furnishes more
than a mere surface wetting, no other watering is
necessary. Your evergreens are being taken care
of by nature, and no artificial watering need be
done. We have now and then several weeks
without rain of any sort, or perhaps after much
fuss and thunder the foliage of our newly planted

S “ stock is grateful for even a worthless little shower

or two. But what about the roots that are so 2
much in need of water? I always feel sad when ©
I see “browning” newly planted stock. I know (=

why it is “browning,” dying—it is the need, the
great need of water, water, water.

> PRUNING <<

DECIDUOUS SHRUBS

There are two reasons why we prune. The
first and most important is to eliminate the old,
exhausted growth and dead wood, and by cutting
these down to the base new shoots will immedi-
ately start. Another reason for pruning is to
control the shape and size of the shrub or plant.

A safe rule to follow and a simple one is to
see toit that all faded blooms, sprays and pan-
icles are cut away as soon as their freshness
and beauty have passed. This accomplishes
three purposes at the same time with one effort:
first, no faded blooms will disfigure our gardens;

rd secondly, no seeds will be permitted to mature

to rob our plants of their vitality; and thirdly,

*/, a certain amount of pruning will have been | 4
’-) accomplished.

Pee Ido not agree with the suggestion of some i 2
=) experts that shrubbery pruning should always be

done with a sharp knife and not with pruning
shears, for about nine times out of ten the pruning
knife is not as sharp as it should be, and it splits
and shreds the shrub in doing its work, whilst
even pruning shears that are not as sharp as they
should be can at most only bruise the part with
which they come in contact. Where roots are
too heavy to use the pruning shears, a small
curved saw, about an inch wide, will do the work
quickly and well.

TOPIARY WORK

And while we are speaking of pruning, I wish
to make a plea for the trees, and the hedges, and
all the evergreens. Do let us put an end to chop-
ping and clipping them into all sorts of peculiar
shapes and grotesque forms. Some time ago I

NS read in a garden magazine an absurd article; the

_author seems to think there is no art in gardening
except to cut atree or shrub into the shape of birds
and dogs and of a “cocked hat.” (I cannot believe

he really intended that we should take him seri-
ously.) He writes: “I have no more scruples in
using the shears upon tree or shrub, where trim-
ness is desirable, than I have in mowing the turf
of the lawn that once represented a virgin soil,
and in the formal part of the garden the yews
should take the shape of pyramids or peacocks, or
cocked hats, or any other conceit Ihave a mind to.”

And while on this subject I wish to quote
from a letter of Sir Richard Steele to afriend; he
writes: ‘I believe it is no wrong observation that
persons of genius, and those who are most capable
of art, are always most fond of nature, as such
are chiefly sensible that all art consists in the imi-
tation and study ofnature. Onthe contrary, people
of the common level of understanding are princi-
pally delighted with the little niceties and fantas-
tical operations of art, and constantly think that
4 finest which is least natural. A citizen is no sooner
-. proprietor of a couple of yews than he entertains
“), thoughts of erecting them into giants like those iy
“, of Guildhall. I know an eminent cook who beau- |»
yy tified his country seat with a coronation dinnerin ~~
** greens, where you see the champion flourishing ©

sSte
ee

on horseback at one end of the table and the queen
in perpetual youth at the other.

For the benefit of all my loving countrymen
of this curious taste, I shall here publish a cata-
logue of greens to be disposed of by an eminent
town gardener who has lately applied to me upon
this head. He represents that for the advance-
ment of a politer sort of ornament in the villas
and gardens adjacent to this great city, and in
order to distinguish those places from the mere
barbarous countries of gross nature, the world
stands much in need of a virtuoso gardener who
has a turn to sculpture, and is thereby capable of
improving upon the ancients of his profession in
the imagery of evergreens. My correspondent is
arrived to such perfection that he cuts family pieces
of men, women or children. Any ladies that please
may have their own effigies in myrtle, or their
» husbands’ in hornbeam. He isa puritan wag, and
-) never fails, when he shows his garden, to repeat

’ that passage in the Psalms: ‘‘ Thy wife shall be as
>) the fruitful vine, and thy children as olive branches ©
© around thy table.” I shall proceed to his cata- |
~~ logue, as he sent it for my recommendation :

“ Adam and Eve in yew; Adam a little shattered by the
fall of the tree of knowledge in the great storm; Eve and
the serpent very flourishing.

“The Tower of Babel, not yet finished.

“St. George in box; his arm scarce long enough, but will
be in condition to stick the dragon by next April.

“A green dragon of the same, with a tail of ground-ivy
for the present.

“N. B. These two not to be sold separately.
“Edward the Black Prince in cypress.

“ A laurestine bear in blossom, with a juniper hunter in
berries.

“A pair of giants, stunted, to be sold cheap.

“A Queen Elizabeth in phylyraea, a little inclining to the
green-sickness, but of full growth.

“ An old maid of honor in wormwood.
“ A topping Ben Johnson in laurel.

ii3 . . .
Divers eminent modern poets in bays, somewhat
blighted, to be disposed of, a pennyworth.

“A quickset hog, shot up into a porcupine by its being
forgot in rainy weather.

“ A lavender pig, with sage growing in his stomach.

“Noah’s ark in holly, standing on the mount, the ribs a
little damaged for want of water.”

BEAUTIFUL SHRUBS FOR
FALL PLANTING

There are so many enduringly beautiful
shrubs that are comparatively unknown, that I
cannot understand why these uncommon shrubs
are not better known and more frequently planted.
Let us take Abelia rupestris. This dwarf shrub,
with its blush white Arbutus-like flowers and
shining foliage, is in bloom all Summer long until
frost. I think the reason it is so infrequently
planted is because it is not considered hardy. I
know it is hardy in New England, provided we
give it a winter cap of hay. Sprays of Abelia are
charming with all stiff-stalked flowers such as
Gladioli and lilies.

Far too rare and too fine is the hybrid Phila-
delphus virginale (Mock Orange) to be massed

or grouped; certainly it is worthy and should be °,

grown as a specimen. Its crested pure white ©
blossoms and fine foliage, together with its un- |”

y<< usual grace, give it a dignity that make it worthy Sy
. of a prominent position, and it is hardy every- | —
>) where. There are three particularly lovely stand- ©”

with her unparalleled individual blossoms that are
an inch across; the incomparable Ludwig Von
Spaeth, the richest purple with a crimson glow,
and President Grevy with unique, unusually
double delicate lavender-blue flowers.
Stephanandra flexuosa is an uncommon
shrub of much value, because of its green lace-
like foliage and pendulous habit, the delicate
glowing coral-red of the new shoots, and the
singular crimson-purple glow of its Autumn col-
orings. This shrub is really more beautiful in
Autumn than in June. Itisadwarf shrub, grow-
ing for me not more than four feet. There is the
dwarf Japanese Cercis, or Red Bud tree, that
blooms with the dogwood in the Spring. It will
grow more than eight feet tall and is foliaged
» right to the base. It is cheerfully lovely when
( massed with the dogwood and the weeping Jap-
“| anese Cherries, and with the Stephanandra for
" a border.
There is a ruddy barked shrub, very much
-) loved in Massachusetts—the Cornus siberica. I

A
2

“4,

=) effects are so welcome. It was massed in the

saw it at its best in late October, when bright

foreground with five Maiden-hair trees (also called .

Gingko). The leaves and bark of the Cornus si-
berica blazed crimson in the setting sun and the
fern-like foliage of the Maiden-hair trees was a
pure gold. The Maiden-hair tree, a twelve- or
fourteen-foot tree, can be planted just as safely
as one four or five feet in height. After it is es-
tablished its growth is very rapid and it soon
develops into a strikingly interesting and un-
common addition to our gardens.

Consider a shrub, a singularly interesting
shrub, a shrub of unique value, introduced in this
country in 1688,and yet apparently it is almost
unknown today; this is incomprehensible to me.
Ispeak of Aralia spinosa. In my garden this rare,
tropical-appearing shrub is quite eight feet high.
Its stalk is covered with sharp spines and its beau-
tiful foliage spreads like a canopy at the top. Its
flowers in Autumn are in great creamy panicles.
The effect is that of a tropical palm.

If the Aralia spinosa is spaced six feet apart
each way, and one very large root of Yucca fila-

+ mentosa is planted in each space between and

early variety, Express, and the later blooming va-
riety, Pfitzerii, spacing the Tritomas eight inches
apart, the result will be wonderful. This is the
effect you will create: Yucca will send upits great
flower rockets early in the Summer—June to mid-
July—and meantime the Tritoma (Express) will
now be abloom until the variety Pfitzerii com-
mences to bloom. The foliage of the Yucca, after
the flowers have gone, will be that of a tropical-
appearing plant, while the green spears of the
Tritomas, some upright, some curved, and many
prostrate, with never a yellowing stage, will pro-
duce an effect rarely seen in our Northern gardens.
Plant the Tritomas in the Spring. After they
are established, heaped up piles of leaves and sand
over them is all the protection needed, because the
Yucca and Aralia spinosa are absolutely hardy.
With this planting one need not wait a year
for results, because by planting this Fall the effect
will be of an established nature next Summer. I
would suggest that you secure five- or six-foot
i eieuts of Aralia. Plant a number of Aralias if you
| desire to obtain a massed subtropical effect.
Plant on a hillside or elevation or boundary |

the brilliant flowering Crabs (pyrus), the pink and
the white varieties, and if you will gradually work
down to a lower level with a framing of the very
dwarf Crab, Pyrus toringo, they will exquisitely
complete the planting.

Have agroup or colony of Paul’s Scarlet Haw-
thorn (crataegus) near the Crabs for splendor of
color.

Althea, Rose of Sharon (hibiscus), stately
formal shrubs, are invaluable among shrubs and
are equally invaluable when used as accentu-
ations; they may also be used as hedge plantings.
I saw the standard form (infrequently seen) ac-
centuating a path on each side through a shrub-
bery, the rounded heads like balls of snow;
the variety was Jeanne d’Arc. Also on each side
of the path there was a three-foot “ribbon” of
White Alyssum, yellow California poppies and
blue Lobelia. The shrub form of Althea (Rose of
Sharon) may be obtained in a double white; the

« Jeanne d’Arc, a double blush; the Lady Stanley,
_a double red; the Boule de Feu and a double red-
? dish purple Atropurpureus plenus. There is a&
double-flowered sort with variegated foliage and ©

purple-crimson flowers, and to me the most de-
sirable of all is a semi-double, deep velvety violet;
its name is Violaceus. This Violaceus should be
given a position quite alone; it is so very beauti-
ful. They are all positively hardy. In pruning do
not mar the contour, which even with the bush
form, is pyramidal in outline, while the standard
forms have globular heads.

_ There isanew Althea (Rose of Sharon) which
iS unique in that it is in flower for nearly three
months and at a season when but few shrubs are
in bloom. The flowers are a silvery, glistening
white, fully four inches across. Isn’t that extraor-
dinary? This variety is symmetrical, graceful,
and one of our real garden treasures. Its name is
William R. Smith. To me it is quite as wonder-
ful as the William R. Smith rose.

There are four varieties of bush lilacs, grown
on their own roots, as uncommonly beautiful as

Von Spaeth standards. All are a fine pink with

| the exception of Lamartine, which is lavender i
, and rose (early), while Villosa is a deep pink and
» very late bloomer. Madame Antoine Buchner is

eS aS Ss Pee
=

ye as Lee <
Boe wees ee

a soft, fine rose-pink, also flowering late. The
fourth is Waldeck Rousseau, the last of this group,
and to me the most striking. The flower panicles
are fully twelve inches in length, pendulous, grace-
ful and of a most delicate pale pink. There are,
I regret to say, but few nurseries which grow these
varieties. Grouping them together in rich soil
with a framing of herbaceous pink lupins, and pro-
tecting them during their first Winter in your gar-
dens with four or five inches of rotted stable ma-
nure, this planting will be—must be—one of your
rarest garden pictures. But remember, they
should be planted this Fall.

WHITE KERRIA
Fraxinella and Pink Fox-gloves

The White Kerria is identical with Golden
Kerriaexcept, of course, that the flowers are white.
The same small, finely veined foliage, the same
low, spready habit, but, what is a decided advan-

tage, it thrives splendidly insemi-shade. Planted

with the pale pink and white Fraxinella and the
tall pink Fox-glove, in partial shade, all are ex-

quisite together. The Fraxinella dictamnus and :

peo

—

Ha IA 4 Peed

491Moe:

ICN "EPO, “bsry Toye “Al apscex) jy? ADIT

SadSTul

THE FOUNTAIN
Histate of James Liawrence Breese, Eisq., Southampton, ILiong Island, N.Y

: Photographed by Matte By. Hewitt
Ou Garden Tevnrall a 1 RN =

wits

——

Ou Garden Journal

_ es

The

THE SHRUBBERY
Bi J. Berscrnd| lystates Newport,

Photographed by Matte Ey. Hewitt

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\ = i ‘ad
Tn - —y to os

—————— SS ee

a ee

White Kerria should be Fall planted with label
stakes marking the places where the pink Fox-
gloves are to be put in, in the Spring.

CYTISUS—Golden Laburnum Pendula

When we see this drooping, graceful mini-
ature tree at flower shows, some of us believe it
is not for the open, but must be grown under
glass or in warm climate. But it is really an
especially hardy tree. The weeping racemes of
golden flowers and the glistening foliage against
a background of somber green make it most
valuable in securing high light effects. There is
an enormous Gaillardia, entirely new, without a
vestige of the mahogany tone and which blooms
continually all Summer. It is Lady Rolleston.
If this new Lady Rolleston, Gaillardia gigantea, a
fine clear yellow, with a distinct crimson ring in
the center, is massed all about the weeping Cy-

’) tisus, how glowingly lovely as a vista or great
“7, planting this wouldbe! They are both positively \ 7;
") hardy with first Winter protection. Another good (7
1 Cytisus, for seashore gardens particularly, is Cy-
2 tisus scoparius (Scotch Broom) when planted with ©

the double white Deutzia crenata. Cytisus sco-
parius will endure and thrive even with the drip
of the salt sea spray.

DEUTZIA

Varieties of the tall Pride of Rochester should
be massed with the dwarf Gracillis lemoinei
placed in front. These two Deutzias will give us
a cloud of pure white flowers during June. In the
forward spaces plant bulbs of the soft pink Darwin
tulip, Madame Krelage.

A Shrubby Honeysuckle—Lonicera

The variety Morrowi, with its white flowers
and its vivid red fruits, is a splendid shrub for
banks and at the base of colored foliage trees.
You may not be familiar with the valuable new
bush honeysuckle called Bella candida; it bears
pink flowers, the habit is very bushy, and it is
quite as hardy as Morrowi.

One of the finest large shrubs I have ever
seen is Halesia tetraptera (Silver Bells). It grows

: toa height of about fifteen feet and is a real gar-

2 den acquisition. The flowers are of purest white. ”/
In June I saw a planting of dwarf horse-chest- 7%

nuts. They were broad and spreading; their great
spears of white flowers were held erect above the
foliage as if wired. These shrubs were formally
placed in a line each side of a driveway. On the
left, in the distance, a greenhouse was screened by
a line of pyramidal evergreens and a mass plant-
ing of Weigela, the variety Eva Rathke, a really
ever-blooming Weigela if planted in good soil and
enriched in the Spring after a good liming. Large
clumps of Elizabeth Campbell phlox framed the
Eva Rathkes, the best pink phlox that grows as
well as the longest in flower, and Rosy Morn pe-
tunias edged the phlox. Spikes of pink fox-gloves
were here and there a great, great many. I started
to count them, but stopped when I had reached a
hundred, and I realized I had only counted a very
small part of them. These big mass plantings,
when harmonious, are nothing less than noble. I
wished earnestly that a certain English writer of
=, garden books had seen this massing. “That our
he gardens were petty in massing, were petty in

” plantings,” is the criticism he made of our Ameri-
e can gardens. He certainly had not seen this plant-
ying when he made that inclusive statement.

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REPT MEER T ER BENE TE

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I hope the day will come when one variety
of anything will not be planted exclusively, but
fewer varieties and a greater number of each;
when we will eliminate “dotting” and confine our
efforts to “mass” planting. Let our orders be for
big stock, stock that will require no waiting for it
to develop to splendid size.

FALL PLANTING OF BANKS, TERRACES
AND LOW HILLSIDES .

I think, probably, we have all had the un-
pleasant experience of having our roadside banks
and low hillsides carried away or partially carried
away by miniature washouts. With the correct
planting of certain suitable shrubs these washouts
will be impossible, adding utility and charm to
places made unsightly by exposed clay. Perhaps
the most practical of all the flowering shrubs for

ae banks and low elevations is the Forsythia for-
Ae tunei and the Forsythia suspensa. Fortunei,
“) although gracefully tall, is not at its best when

we planted alone, but planted in triangles, placing

ey the tall Fortuneis here, and Suspensas there, you ye
“) will see these golden-flowered shrubs worthily 7%

placed. Suspensa is a weeping shrub, showering
to the very ground where the tips of Suspensa’s
branches will take root, producing more shower-
ing sprays, and as Suspensa grows wide and full,
all spaces will be filled, while Fortunei, which
grows to ten feet high and more, will tower above
her. Another uncommon shrub too little known
is a new Privet (Ligustrum) regelianum. Its
foliage is small and fine, ovaland glistening. This
privet is peculiarly adapted for slidy, crumbly bank
planting, as it roots deeply and its weeping, fern-
like branches sweep the ground, keeping shady
and moist what otherwise would be a dry position.
This Privet regelianum is a perfect treasure as
a ground cover or base planting, hedges, etc., and
I know it is infinitely superior to California Privet.
Still another excellent privet, as yet, I think, also
too little known, is Ibota.

These privets may or may not be sheared or
lightly sheared. Both are truly hardy, and the
Regelianum is unsurpassed, as it grows very fast

» and has a wide, spready habit; it should therefore

ag , be allowed ample space for development.
Colutea is a practical bank or roadside shrub;

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it has an immense spread and the lower branches
rest flat on the ground. The foliage is a silvery,
reseda green, fine and small, with never a shabby
stage.
Spiraea van houtteii is good too, massed on
a roadside or bank, or planted, as I have seen it,
to disguise the stumps of many felled trees—it
covered them completely. It is a beautiful shrub,
but of course I must admit its base is not beauti-
ful, but this defect can be cloaked by Deutzia
gracillis, such a feathery, lovely thing, and a
pleasing note of blue may be had by tucking into
the edge of the holes in which the Gracillis is
planted clumps of Periwinkle, whose waxy green
lengths will spread over all the bare ground, and
when the Spiraea van houtteii and Deutzia
~ §racillis are a cloud of white, these waxy green
») 4 lengths are a cloud of blue.
3 Stepanandra flexuosa and Styrax are won-

sf derful together. Stepanandra’s delicately fine foli-
<< age has also given it the name “Queen’s Lace,” and

®>) it has the excellent quality of remaining lovely >
a The thread-like sprays (~

while Styrax waves long sprays of white bells and
fine foliage eight and ten feet above Stepanandra
flexuosa.

Amateur Gardeners, the possibility of the
shrub is limitless. Let us study their habits, their
time of bloom; let us remember to cut away their
faded flowers before seed forming commences (for
this robs them of so much of their vitality); let
us keep them lovely by pruning them lightly to
graceful lines, and if we give them at least one
great, generous meal in the Spring, they will do
this for us: They will delight us with their sweet
and countless beautiful blooms; they will make
the golden days of Fall wondrous with their bril-
liant colorings; they will make our gardens state-
lier and will clothe them with a restfulness and
repose by day, and at twilight in the late Summer
evenings they will cast their shadows, bringing
pleasant thoughts, peace and soothingness; they
will be the moon’s screen to play its brilliant rays
upon, delighting us with their continual changes
of lights and shadows and enhancing by their
force and stateliness the beauty of all the treas-

ures of our gardens.
Lh th Sli

IK IR I

\)}HOPE an Eremurus root or tv
af every garden this Fall, to amaz
‘ al of the Throne” is its name in
2 == | say. Although spear-like and
gorgeous. Plant the roots nine inches de
green before covering with fine soil. The
to twelve feet high, but only Fall plante
variety of Eremurus in a rain storm does
flower spear nearly thirty inches long becc
sun shines again, gradually but slowly resu
variety is a delicate peach-pink color and
the place wherein the root is planted. I
to shed rain or melting snow.

These strange-looking, star-like roots
when putting in your Madonna lilies. Th
Bungei Superbus, Himalacicus, Hin
three), Shelford, Tubergeni and We

ORI

e (many more) will be tucked away in
th its lofty, towering beauty. ‘Guardian
airopean countries, aptly named, I should
€ in appearance, it is graceful, unique,
id, over and under, and dust with Paris
row is Robustus. It will grow from eight
ill bloom the following Summer. This
sculiar and interesting thing. The great
xact interrogation point, which, when the
mperious spear-like form. The Robustus
itely hardy. Allow no depression over
is wisdom to mound up the soil lightly

ecured in September, and may be planted
sveral other Eremuri; they are: Bungei,
ie, the Robustus variety (there are
s. All of these varieties are hardy.

oe.
aC rami,

Ni Te

: u ; ti

~, ACH year, if we are ambitious enough,
*) we do seek and we do find new and
rare garden treasures.

To Mr. E. H. Wilson, the collector
of rare plants for the Arnold Arbo-
retum of Harvard University, we are indebted,
Amateur Gardeners, for many unique and novel
garden treasures. I recall an order I sent toa
certain Boston firm a year ago this September
for a number of Mr. Wilson’s recent discoveries,
which they announced through the medium of a
special leaflet they were prepared to supply. My
order was for—

Two dozen Lonicera maackii var. Podocarpa.

Two dozen Cotoneaster salicifolia (a willow-
leaf Cotoneaster).

Two dozen Hypericum patulum var. Henryi.

Two dozen Sorbaria arborea glabrata.

Two dozen Philadelphus incanus.

Two dozen Spiraea henryi.

When I received the acknowledgment of my
order and the date when I should receive it, I
telephoned to the man who did all my trucking
to inquire at the station for a large shipment of
shrubs which I wished delivered immediately.
Late that afternoon my truckman drove in, not
on his large truck, but in his little Ford, and de-
posited on alow stone walla medium-sized wooden
box. I was puzzled. The box was unpacked. I
need not say, need I? that it contained my entire
order for the Wilson novelties. The plants were
all in six-inch paper pots, very sturdy but very
miniature. I was rather amused at myself that
I expected a truck full of rare novelties, the
plants averaging only adollar each. They all
wintered well and I did not lose a single plant,
and they have grown prodigiously, particularly
the Sorbaria arborea glabrata, which is now at
this writing over five feet tall, with the promise
of an abundance of September blooms. The
Spiraea henryi bloomed this past June; the

flowers were nearly two inches across, growing in
clusters. The plants were quite as large as my
long-established Deutzia gracillis. The branches
of this new Spiraea arch charmingly. I am so
pleased with it. The Hypericum patulum henryi
isa new and hardy St. John’s Wort. (It doesn’t
seem right that anything so beautiful should have
such a horrid name.)

This St. John’s Wort is about three feet tall
and almost as wide, and just now it is a mass of
the clearest golden yellow blossoms you can im-
agine, and it has so many promising buds that I
know the end of August will see these new St.
John’s Worts still in flower. The Philadelphus
incanus, with its strangely woolly and interest-
ing foliage, has not kept quite apace with the
other Wilson treasures, although there was a fair
showing of blooms through late June and early
July. It is too early now to say anything about
the extraordinary Autumn coloring promised for
Lonicera maackii, but I must admit I have never
before seen small robust plants grow so amaz-
ingly. I am quite ready to believe this particular
Lonicera is all Mr. Wilson claims for it: “That
it is when mature one of the most magnificent,
one of the most extraordinarily beautiful shrubs
in cultivation.” The Cotoneaster salicifolia is also

supposed to add its glowing note to Autumn’s glory
and it certainly promises well; the glistening lance-
shaped foliage is said to be evergreen; of that as
yet I cannot say, but up to the present it is com-
pletely charming. Last Spring I planted a great
number of strong plants of Buddleia variabilis
superba as a base planting to the Tamarix family,
every member of which blooms in a different
month, therefore extending the season of the Tam-
arix flower sprays and panicles all through the
Summertoearly Fall. What a valuable and lovely
family of shrubs the Tamarix are! Why, I have
seen their feathery sprays dripping with the salt
sea water, and again I have seen Tamarix revel-
ing in the dry, hot air of an inland garden. Some
one has said, “ What a pity the Tamarix, so feath-
ery, so delicate of form and color, should be so
ugly at its base.”” I am sorry that I must admit
this defect in Tamarix, and that is why I plant
the Buddleia variabilis superba to screen its base.
If you could but see what showering graceful
Buddleia has done for the Tamarix! Perhaps I
can give you an idea of it. Just now the variety
Hispida aestivalis is in bloom and has been nearly
all through July and will be through August. The
variety Africana flowered late in May and part of
June, Gallica’s flesh-pink flower racimes opened

late in May and bloomed on until July, while Da-
hurica, Tudica, Odesana and Plumosa produced
their soft pink and mauve clouded rose flowers in
their season. I will tell you why I choose Budd-
leia variabilis superba to frame the Tamarix fam-
ily instead of Buddleia magnifica. The flower tails
of Buddleia superba are just the right shade of
rosy pink to be harmonious with the several pink-
ish, flesh, rosy mauve shades of the different Tam-
arix. However, I had much need of Buddleia mag-
nifica in another planting, a most important one,
combining Desmodium pendula and Buddleia
magnifica. I wonder if you have seen these show-
ering, arching, wonderful shrubs growing side by
side. You see, Desmodium pendula is so very pen-
dulous that I utilized it as a foreground massing
to Buddleia magnifica—Desmodium is about the
latest flowering shrub we have, its waxy thick
but small fine leaves and Russian violet purple
toned blossoms, each marked with a cerise scarlet
spot, as a base or border to Buddleia magnifica is
a radiant combination; the rich lilac purple tails
of Buddleia magnifica blend so happily with the
fine purple of Desmodium pendula. Both die down
to the ground in Winter, just as herbaceous plants
do, but that seems only to make them stronger
and more wonderful. Both require rich soil and

the protection that I have mentioned for al/ Fall
planted things. Secure large roots of both Des-
modium pendula and Buddleia variabilis mag-
nifica. There is another variety of Desmodium
that has white flowers and the same rare foliage as
pendula; as a base planting to Spirea Van Hout-
tei, or to beautiful, graceful Styrax Japonica, noth-
ing could be better for hiding the rather unlovely
base of Spirea Van Houttei or give finish or fram-
ing to Styrax Japonica.

Golden Kerria Japonica is another precious
and enduringly beautiful shrub, and if you will
order the variety Corchorus japonicus you will
have the all-Summer blooming Kerria, sometimes
called Globe Flower. There is a double form, also
a variegated sort, whose foliage is flecked and
lined with white. Personally, the single, plain
green, ever-blooming, golden-flowered variety is
my favorite. Remember it is Corchorus ja-
ponica. If you will sow seed of the California
Poppy this Fall and plant bulbs of daffodils in all
the bare spaces in front of and on every side of
Kerria, next Spring and Summer you will find
you have added another golden note to your
garden. These California Poppies self-sow and
are equal to any hardy herbaceous plant because
of that, and, besides, they are unfailing. The but-

tercup yellow California Poppy is the one I choose
to border the Kerria, because the orange, flame and
Mandarin shades are too dark. I mixed the cream
white (Alba) and buttercup seed together when
sowing and they blossomed together to my delight.
Rake the seed mixed with sand lightly into the
surface soil, using considerably more seed than
advised for flower bed borders, an ounce of seed
to a pint of sand.

Excellent for mass planting is the Japanese
lilac-japonica. This lilac is a unique species grow-
ing to the size of asmall tree and producing fluffy,
cream-white panicles a full month later than any
other lilac. I saw a mass planting of this lilac.
It consisted of eleven trees, and all the ground
about them, front and sides and back, was covered
with hardy herbaceous Lupins, the white, pink
and blue. All were in bloom. I need not tell you
how uncommonly lovely it was, neither need I
tell you that it was all hardy and that these Japanese
lilacs and hardy Lupins were planted in the Fall
and safely wintered, although protected only as we
must protect all newly planted shrubs. If I repeat
this so often, it is because it is so important and
I wish to impress its importance upon you by re-
iteration, so please understand. To me the foliage
of the hardy Lupin is unequaled by any herbaceous

plant, and it has no fading, yellowing stage. Like
the Oriental Poppy, it should be Fall planted. If
you will compare Spring planted and Fall planted
Lupins, this is what you will instantly notice:
First, an appearance of splendid maturity, dozens
of flower spikes and a width and breadth, as though
the Fall planted Lupin had always been just there,
while the Spring planted Lupin is narrow without
spread and not useful as space fillers. Naturally
there are but few blooms the first Summer.

“I wish more Lupins were planted,” I said to
a friend, who exclaimed in horror when I suggested
assembling Japanese Maples, the blood-red, lace-
leaf variety, and the pink Polyphyllus moerheimi
(hybrid) Lupin; the base of each floret is a Japanese
maple red, consequently it makes a perfectly har-
monious group, and as this Lupin blooms continu-
ously if the faded blooms are kept cut, nothing,
not even the Japanese Maples and Azaleas, is more
exquisite when they are massed together.

RARE LOVELY MAGNOLIAS
Watson’s Magnolia is rare and new. Its
flowers are of the purest, waxy white, with vivid
scarlet stamens.
Soulange’s Magnolia is not rare, but is rarely
lovely. A group or belt of this variety well spaced,
correctly planted, is a joy.

Y te 7 i rrr Z

"| HE vogue of the Peony is in the ascendant. The
| profound interest of amateur gardeners in this flower
is due, I believe, not only to the superb blooms of the
newer and newest introductions, but to a marked
familiarity with the different types, a knowledge
brought about by the critically ambitious Amateur
forming collections and using the rare judgment and finer percep-
tion usually only given to the rose. There are certain varieties
peculiarly adapted to certain positions; for example, take the two
Festiva peonies, Festiva Maxima, tall, and Festiva dwarf, whose
great white blooms are still unrivaled by any of the newer white
varieties. Employing both the tall and the dwarf Festivas as a
border to such flowering shrubs as Styrax Japonica or the Japanese
Magnolia parviflora or the Sweet Magnolia (Magnolia glauca),
whose wonder blooms of ivory white are aflower with the Festiva
peonies. It is as a framing or as borders to great mass plantings
that these two varieties are employed at theirvery best. In the
herbaceous garden peonies of the finely clouded, suffused and
changeable pink and opal tints placed with our blue and rare white
Delphiniums are indescribably charming. Of these, we have Claire
Dubois, Baroness Schroeder, Jeanne d’Arc, Dorchester, Madame
Breon, Emile Gallee, Asa Gray, Madame de Gallian, and the
remarkable Marguerite Gerard, sometimes called Queen’s Rose.

These are all rarely lovely, with blue and cream flowers. There
are such gems as:

Boule) Blanche). 4.9.05 «1 4). - pure white.
Duchesse de Nemours. ..... pure white, sulphur yellow center.
Soliatercres. wey vei teaveiek Suede toile pure white, sulphur yellow center.
FAIDACT OT Fvienie relies dotiete a. ese eh yells snow white, clouded soft rose.
CE TENE he a S66 Bolo 6 66 white, center filled with yellow stamens.
anvVestalemoicuuisirenanel iia rst te primrose white.
Golden’Harvest =. 2). 5. 1. 2s, pale gold.
Alsace-Lorraine ........ white-chamois gold.
Meteorden au ii wcnec ules iicaloiic brilliant vivid crimson (single).
Rubra SUperbalys note y- jee) ie) ee crimson suffused purple.
Souvenir de l’Exposition Univer-

Sellesicmrowmel tau opkcinechaiiciics weinece Strikingly vivid cerise.
Wianwick@e vitae stusq cioreticd aie ns crimson.
Menwitoliay lich ces hen eyes is eer si as scarlet crimson (single).
Tenuifolia flora pleno...... scarlet crimson.
Wy hes JETVECINAS 6 6 duo Bb alo ald velvet-amaranth.
EAEATOE (ESTOS RAT IQIE nCeT AH aC ra Eee flame red.
ITE G AG ole Oho Od) O10. 1b Oo us soft hydrangea pink.
Mme Caloty) cis Vee suey oiee es le flesh white, clouded chamois.
Roseld Amorim lied iturin delicate carnation pink.
Pride‘of Langport;:)<) i. i. = 3) peachy-pink.
Fugenie Verdier ~ = )-\. ..- - delicate hydrangea pink.
Stanleyssccucucprionced cme aves tae silvery mauve-rose.
Rosy Dawn. «\/4.).)- |. *. . . . blush water lily.
Way hulipe se ieiis) cite nes fey tenes ells rose, cream, carmine.
OE Gi gloria. 6 Vélloe oo oelle clear lilac-rose.
Octavie Demay (Dwarf) ..... soft hydrangea pink.
Princes GEOre eum i-ilii-aiieii satin purple.
IDECAISHE Hiss ania ty ened ie ep sical e violet, coral suffusion.
Augustine d’Hour 05.045, 32). purple, silver.
Pottseplenay cy eyes ciic ie) ume purple.
Victoire de l’Alma....... violet, scarlet.
Madame Geissler... ...... violet, rose.
Etienne: Mechin <); )-) 0)... = > purple, red.
Monsieur Paul Risbourg .. . . purple, mauve.
Philomene yy et en eee eh eh eis violet, rose, amber.

JAPANESE PEONIES

The Japanese Peonies are in a distinct class of their own.
There are about twenty remarkable varieties of such extraor-
dinary size and form and coloring that to describe them would

be futile; suffice it to say, that of all the flower treasures Japan
has given us for our American gardens I think the Japanese peony
is supreme. All varieties of peonies should be planted in the Fall,
in rich, rather heavy, well-drained soil. Order heavy roots and
be certain when planting that the eyes are covered with not more
than two or three inches of soil. Personally I give peonies no
Winter protection, neither newly planted nor established ones.
Deeply dug beds or holes, well drained, rich soil and good healthy
peony stock with very plump eyes will produce splendid results
next Summer and will increase in splendor year after year.

Let me suggest to lovers of these wonderful flowers who have
not read “The Book of the Peony,” by Mrs. Edward Harding,
that they read this book—a book of inestimable value to peony
lovers.

JAPANESE TREE PEONIES

Whilst I know these Japanese Tree Peonies demand a full
measure of our care and our watchfulness, still they give us so
great a return. I know many amateur gardeners who grow them
successfully and well. First of all, they are absolutely hardy and
are of the most exquisite colors. Their foliage is silky and gleam-
ing and their blooms immensely large. Their good qualities I
have mentioned. Their faults—they have some of course, for these
Japanese Tree Peonies are grafted on a hideous but vigorous pur-
ple variety ; suckers are more or less to be guarded against, but
deep planting will help a great deal, but will not always insure
against the plants suckering. You can detect the suckers instantly,
and by cutting them away, right at the graft from which they
spring, you will have no difficulty in growing tree peonies to your
unbounded delight. They are so gorgeous! Provide the most
sheltered, warmest position for them, for they bloom so early in
the Spring that now and then the buds are frost blighted.

\ ' \\ uy g
SAUD A ALG

SSS Mahe EY

+ T was with delighted eyes I saw the Japanese herba-
' ceous Anemones in somany, many gardens last Autumn.
There is now so numerous a family of these interesting,
decorative and uncommon flowers that to give you a
complete list of its members may be helpful, and I
hope every amateur gardener will plant the entire
family of these Japanese Anemones.

PUIG Ce ear Wie vie) Son sox leuiiiositie rose, carmine-flushed lilac.

Autumn Queen..... deep rose (new).

Brilliant iy cen ie elie crimson-rose.

Coupe d’Argent .. . .double. Purest white.

Enchantment. ..... pearl white flushed, under petals pink.
Geante Blanche. .... the Giant White Anemone.
Kriemhilde). 43...) vivid lilac red (new).

Lady Ardilaun ..... single paper white.

Lord Ardilaun ..... double white.

Voreleyewa asta incr: lilac rose, semi-double.
MonteRosesmyeunn eect. flowers very large, of a delicate pink tipped carmine.
Prince Heinrick. ... . very large, deep pink.

Queen Charlotte .. . . silvery pink, semi-double.

Rosea Superba ..... fine silvery rose.

Vase d’Argent ..... pure white, under petals rose pink.
Whirlwind) 9 tae ce large and snowy white.

This is every variety that I am acquainted with, and just at
this moment I can recall but one nursery that supplies all of these
varieties of Japanese Anemones.

If you cannot secure pot-grown plants or roots for late Sep-
tember planting, wait until Spring, but have the bed prepared
this Autumn. It should be deeply dug and enriched with one-
third the amount of rotted manure totwo-thirds of good soil, with
a powdering of lime all over the surface in the early Spring, then
worked into the soil.

Do not confuse these hardy herbaceous Japanese Anemones
with the bulbous St. Brigid and French Anemones.

| bulbs are planted by that time they will make some
=<" necessary and essential growth before the ground freezes.
Each bulb should be nested, under and over, in sand, but be-
fore doing so dust into all its scales flowers of sulphur (and you need
not be afraid of using too much). I plant Madonna lily bulbs only
four inches deep, but all Japanese bulbs, such as Auratum, Speci-
osum, etc., I plant nine inches deep in sand under and over each
bulb. I know this is somewhat deeper than is usually advised,
but you will not regret the extra inch or two of depth when you
see (the following Summer) the fine straight stalk, firm without
staking, just because of this rather deeper planting. If there are
liberal spaces between your rhododendrons, and the rhododendrons
are where they may be seen from the house, there you may nest
these lilies, or in a border against a wall, together with golden
Columbines (chrysantha), Maiden-hair ferns, Alyssum saxatile
(the hardy golden Alyssum), and quaint little tufts of the hardy gold
and white Viola cornuta. To keep this border abloom until
frost, plant the later blooming lilies, using Lilium auratum bulbs
for July lilies and Lilium speciosum alba for August and Sep-
tember blooms. They will give us an exquisite gold and white
border. If you admire the white Scotch harebells—and is there a
flower lover who does not ?—plant clumps of them this Fall back
of the white and gold Viola cornutas.
Remember not to permit any depressions over where your
lily bulbs are planted. The earth really should be slightly mounded
up to shed rain and melting snow.

SOME BULBS

( Pm ANY amateur gardeners will recall the charming little

“ee grape hyacinths shown in so many exhibits last
VL Spring at the International Flower Show held at the

* Grand Central Palace here in New York.

One of the prize winning exhibits, composed entirely

of Bay Spring flowers, featured these exquisite grape hyacinths.

I recall how all the narrow pebbled paths of this exhibit were
edged with these adorable grape hyacinths, and how the hardy
Maiden-hair ferns towered over them and over Spanish and
Asiatic and Dutch Iris and Golden Columbines, the long spurred
hybrid Chrysantha towered over the Maiden-hair ferns, and
formal tufts of Hybrid Viola atropurpurea filled in the spaces
between the grape hyacinths and the Iris. How wonderfully all
the lovely tulip family graced this exhibit, from the tall and im-
perious Darwins to the modest miniature “ Duc von Thol”’ tulips,
the Dutch Hyacinths, Daffodils, Narcissi and Jonquils, French
and Irish Anemones, de Caen and St. Brigid, Violas cornuta, and
Asiatic Iris. This exhibit was shown and grown by an amateur
gardener, and I think was unquestionably the favorite individual
garden featuring only hardy Spring flowers.

The narrow paths in an herbaceous garden may
be made permanently beautiful with these grape hya- &
cinths, Violas cornuta, hybrid Viola atropurpurea, the
dwarf and tall Maiden-hair ferns, the Spanish and
Dutch Iris, Columbines (using only the long spurred

hybrids), the French and Irish Anemones, the Duc von Thol
tulips, Narcissi and trumpet daffodils, the double tulips, single
early tulips, the Breeder tulips, the Darwins, giving prefer-
ence to such beauties as Mrs. Cleveland, Pride of Haarlem,
glowing Princess Elizabeth, Psyche, William Pitt, Mme. Krelage,
and Winnie. Do not plant these bulbs in lines or rows, but in
groups of three or five bulbs together, each “nest” far enough
apart to admit the planting of other flowers between them. All
these bulbs should be planted early in the Fall. They are all
hardy and they are all most charming and uncommon.

When planting the Asiatic Iris, let them be well in front;
they are so delicately lovely and like certain varieties of the
hardy Poeticus narcissi, namely: Epic, whose large flower is
snow white, the cup a canary yellow, with a vivid fiery edge of
Red; Cassandra, ‘The Noble” (he is the giant of all this great
family of Poeticus), its perianth is thick and waxy white, while
the cup has a deeply rimmed scarlet edge. You realize the in-
justice of planting such treasures anywhere but in the most
prominent positions. Study the varieties that will harmonize,
and please beware of planting terra-cotta Darwins in close prox-
imity to pale pinks, mauve, cerise, etc. Please do not permit the
maroon brown of Andre Doria to become a neighbor of Professor
Rauwenhoff’s brilliant cherry red, or Belle Jardiniéres mauve
pink. It is so easy to avoid inharmonious combinations by intel-
ligent consideration of harmonious tones.

5°

EACEPTIONAL PIEIRENNIALS

<-> HE perennials I am going to mention that should be
A planted this Fall do not include, as you must know,

) all the desirable ones, but only those that I know will
' produce better results next Spring and Summer—that
is, if they are planted this Fall. It is unnecessary for
me to say that they need some Winter protection. It need only
be a few inches of leaves, coarse hay, or, if you prefer it, rotted
stable manure, using three or four inches. But I caution you not
to protect your Delphinium roots with anything but coal ashes;
heap up a small mound over each crown. If by any chance the
Delphinium worm has been destructive to your Delphiniums, use
a little Paris green, dusting it over the crowns before putting on
the coal ashes. Your precious Delphiniums will then be free
from frost rot as well as from their one living enemy, the Delphin-
ium worm. Study all the latest Delphinium hybrids and plant
some of each variety that may appeal to you.

Fine roots, clumps or crowns of every hardy plant I name
may be secured from the nurseries by October first. Not
seedlings, remember, Amateur Gardeners, but plants that have
bloomed and are reliable, strong and worth while. There area
number of perennials I wish to speak of comprehensively. I will
begin with Meehan’s Mallow Marvels. When I say that for late
Summer gorgeousness they have no equal, I do not exaggerate

their garden worth. Asa great mass planting they are through
August to November what the Frau Karl Druschki roses are to
the rose garden in early Summer. And there is such a range of
colors to choose from, and they are all perfectly harmonious when
planted together.

Next in importance for late Summer glory is Physostegia,
white, flesh and pink, so unfailingly lovely. We have the Oriental
Poppies, too; such a numerous family when we know about them,
and all so worthy of a place and space; indeed, more space and
the more prominent place the better, I should say. There are over
thirty members of the Oriental Poppy family, all splendidly hand-
some. There is Beauty of Livermere, deep red, and Goliath, whose
gigantic scarlet blooms are held aloft on thirty-inch stems, and
Grand Mogul, a crimson, strikingly vivid; Red Loreley and Mene-
lek, a copper red which is glorious with the Japanese Maples;
Nancy, a red; Royal Scarlet, Trilby and Oriflamme. All of these
Oriental Poppies are red, but of different shades. Then we have
the salmons, silvery salmons and gold salmons in Brightness, Jean-
nie Mawson, Marie Studholme, Mrs. John Harkness, Princess
Ena, Princess Victoria Louise (new), and the jewels of the Poppy
family, Queen Alexandra, Rembrandt, and Silberblick; these are
the salmon shades. The Pink Orientals are Blush Queen, Cerise
Beauty, Harmony, Joyce, Masterpiece, Proserpine,and Rose Queen.
The orange shades are Lady Roscoe, Monarch, Princess Juliana,
and Semi-Plenum. Silvery Queen is so silvery white and so deli-
cately fine that she should be placed only with the softest-toned
pink and blue flowers. Last and most interesting is Oriental King;
it is a double variety, bold in appearance, strong, dominant, whose
perfect blooms we may cut with great stems. Joyce and Cerise
Beauty are the two varieties planted on the knoll with the Silver
Moon roses, White and Pink Portulaca, and the white pink-cen-
tered Vinca that I spoke of last March.

Remember these Oriental Poppies should be planted in the Fall.
My experience has been that very little success is to be had with
Spring planted Oriental Poppies. After the seeds have ripened the

§2

tap root goes to sleep and sleeps through Winter, and while they
sleep they may be successfully transplanted. You probably will not
find all these varieties listed in all the catalogues, but I will tell
you where all of them may be secured.

If there is a place in your garden that is moist and in semi-
shade, enhance it by planting Trollius (Globe-flowers), the new hy-
brids of Trollius. There are several of them, all so worthy of a
home in some part of our gardens, by the pool or stream, bearing
company to the blue and the gold Japanese Iris and the Forget-me-
nots Palustris semperfiorens.

Heuchera hybrids must be planned for, so rarely lovely are
they, and, what is more, they are so unusual, so uncommon, so
infrequently seen except in the well-considered gardens. SBri-
zoides gracillima, a rose-pink, Cascade, a soft pink with quaintest
red anthers, Rosamunde, a coral, and Virginale, a wax white, are
decidedly new, while Sanguinea and Alba, although not new, are
most deserving. The Aconitum brings to our gardens in late
Summer and Autumn all the blue furnished in early Summer by
the Delphiniums. It is a wide range of blue, too, with the Sparks
variety, a real blue violet, and Wilsonii, a pure pale blue; both
the Sparks and Wilsonii grow nearly six foot tall. Then there is
Napellas, blue and white. There is a golden and good white,
both of them novelties; the golden variety is Lycoctonum, the
white is Napellus album. The foliage of all of these Aconitums
is lacey, and a fitting position for them is near the Japanese
Anemones.

BTS OL LEG DLV

; SEEDS THAT SHOULD
(BE SOWN IN THE FALL

PORTULACA

HAVE found that it is almost impossible to coax the
tiny Portulaca seeds to germinate when Spring sown.
In a well-known garden of a friend at Pride’s
Crossing, Massachusetts, while thousands of these
tiny black seeds have been regularly sown every Spring, these
shy little plants that so love the sun have persistently refused
year after year to give even a suggestion to indicate that a seed
had ever been sown.

To this garden I brought from my garden several seed flats
of these dear little portulaca plants, and we tucked them away
in many sunny places; this was in August, and they continued to
bloom and seeded.

In my garden, after the portulaca has bloomed and gone to
seed, thousands of these tiny seeds lodge and hide themselves in
protected crevices and chinks and grooves and hollows, there to
remain safe and snug all through the long, cold Winter, only to
gaily greet me again the following Summer. And what a joy
it is to have them surprise us almost everywhere with their
many bright sun-turned faces!

When sowing portulaca seed I always mix one teaspoonful
of seed with a pint of fine sand. Of course the seed must be
thoroughly mixed with the sand before it is sown.

Portulaca plants when not crowded will spread to fifteen
inches, and it is said that each plant produces more than five
hundred seeds. Portulaca may be safely and easily transplanted

in full bloom, that is, if the little plants are not too mature. Of the
many varieties I prefer all gold, all pale rose, all peach or scarlet; I
might say that any of the all self colors are preferable to a mixture.

Fortunately the seed may be obtained from most seedsmen
in the various different shades, as well as a mixture of all of them.

The flowersof the double portulaca are as perfect and as exqui-
site as the blooms of the fairy roses, Cecil Brunner and Marie Pavie.

FORGET-ME-NOTS

The most successful results with Forget-me-nots will be ob-
tained if Fall sown, just as with Portulaca, and sowing in just
the same manner. Should you be fortunate enough to havea
trickling brook or stream running through your land, sow on each
side of its banks to the water’s edge for a ribbon of blue in the
Spring, and through all the Summer to Autumn. But to have this
ribbon of blue you must sow the ever-blooming hardy Palustris
semperflorens variety.

CALIFORNIA POPPIES
California Poppies should also be Fall sown, the same as Por-
tulaca, but as they are not so spready in habit as Portulaca or
Forget-me-nots, use two teaspoonfuls of the seed to a pint of sand.
When deciding upon the color of the California Poppy seed
you intend to order, give preference to the gold and cream shades,
although Carmine King, Golden West, Mandarin, Mikado, and
Rose Cardinal are all lovely in the right place, and their right place
is not with or near delicate pink, fine buff, or salmon rose flowers.

DWARF DELPHINIUM

The seed of this rarely fine little hybrid, which is the gem in
miniature, of the lovable Delphinium family, should be sown as I
have suggested for Portulaca, Forget-me-nots, and California
Poppies, and in mid-May and early June you will have many sturdy
little seedlings to transplant to borders for edging, etc.

Obtain the variety Chinensis grandiflorum; it is the truest
azure blue, and it is hardy, absolutely hardy.

FOX-GLOVES
Sow the white, the unspotted white fox-
glove seeds in a sheltered spot, and you
have quantities of Spring seedlings to trans-
plant for a great white planting.

See Ree Rea ne ae
ee)
x CERTAIN ROSES THAT MUST BE *
@ PLANTED THIS FALL FOR ROSES NEXT JUNE ©
K

Bs
ek OKOXOKOKOX OKK OMOKSKOXSXOXS

'S))

(“© HERE are certain roses that will not bloom the same
eT B Summer when planted in the Spring of that Summer,
iki es and there are certain roses that will bloom the same
Summer but not so lavishly as when planted the pre-
ceding Fall. As these roses are absolutely hardy, why not benefit
by gaining a year, especially when there is more time for plant-
ing in the Fall? We have the hybrid Rogusa rose, Conrad F.
Meyer, and what a mammoth bush it is! Under favorable condi-
tions it will grow seven feet tall—a great, symmetrical bush with
superbly formed blooms, almost identical to those of Caroline
Testout. Many who grow the Conrad F. Meyer consider it the
most deliciously perfumed of any rose that grows, with the pos-
sible exception of Gruss an Teplitz. And what an ideal hedge
rose Conrad Meyer is if given space enough to develop to its
natural form—it is so commanding as an accentuation!

In preparing holes for Conrad F. Meyer, have them as wide
and deep as though you were planting a vigorous young tree, for
that is about what it is. Thirty inches deep and three feet wide
is none too wide or too deep. This rose does not require pruning,
but the faded blooms should be cut away with long stems; also,
any dead wood or unripe tipsof canes. The first Winter it should
be protected with five or six inches of rotted stable manure well
spread over the surface for about three feet.

Some of the desirable climbing roses that must be planted in
the Fall for next Summer flowers are:

Climbing American Beauty . . . Red.

Dr. W. Van Fleet... ..... Flesh.

ShowerofGold. ........ Gold.

Silver Moon.......... Pure white.

Lady Gay ....... . . . . Deep pink.

All the Perkins Roses. ..... White, pink, red.
PISEIS TY aie e bist tantly Meee td aiuieh oat ts Cream (ever-blooming).
Tausendschon......... All shades of pink.
Lady Blanche ......... White.

American Pillar ........ Pink.

Mrs. M.H. Walsh ....... White.

Flower of Fairfield ...... ?
Improved Crimson Rambler. . \ Red (ever-blooming).
Sylwiairyescscnceiiper seit wilnia nea aimenteiys Yellow.

Hiawatha nee ee ae Carmine.

Gardeniayi in var eall-s ice utters Golden yellow.

Birdies Bly ie oy vie vie eile Vai ce Pink (ever-blooming).

Frau Karl Druschki should be planted in the Fall and so
should Gruss an Aachen, the hardiest hybrid tea rose that grows,
a fawn, salmon and flame, camellia-like in form and beautiful and
unusual. Caroline Testout will winter perfectly with protection,
the same protection given to every rose named for Fall planting,
and so will Gruss an Teplitz and Clio. All dwarf rambler roses
will winter if protected.

i SOME THINGS I LEARNED FROM
. mS NAN OLD HOLLAND NUIRSERYMAN ~-

me
Ww
a
«&

“<-) | E showed me how to form a master leader on evergreens

bs, H where two leaders grew ruining the contour of thetree.
pe

The shorter or less desirable leader is cut away com-
pletely and the cut covered with creosote, a strong green-
colored stake long enough to extend above the top of the tree is
deeply driven into the ground at a point where it can go between
the roots (which is quickly ascertained by lifting a spadeful of the
soil), the remaining leader is tied with strong tape to the stake
from below the point where the other was removed, and is also
tied at intervals, to within several inches of the top. The tying
tape should be quite loose, tightening gradually to draw the leader
into line. In about a month it will hold to center and form a true
leader.

He explained to me why certain side growths on some of my
white and Colorado Blue Spruces were dying. It was due to an
independent miniature tree that frequently forms on a side branch
of Spruces and other short-needled evergreens. He showed me
how to cut it completely away, which is easily done by removing
the whole growth and touching the cut with creosote, and by re-
moving this abnormal growth the tree is no longer robbed of its
vitality.

That if, when planting bulbs such as Tulips, Narcissi, Jon-
quils, etc., we mix with the soil a small quantity of a mixture of
one-half wood ashes and one-half bone meal, this will induce
splendid long, firm stems.

That newly planted shrubs should be pruned “hard,” espe-
cially those of twiggy growth.

That all bulbs should be planted deeper in light soil, and that
sand should be mixed with heavy soil where bulbs are to be
planted.

That newly planted stock, whether it be shrubs, evergreens
or perennials, must be protected over their first Winter.

That the soil in which rhododendrons are planted should never
be limed.

That as a preventive vigilance, Fall spraying
is most important. For it is then that we may
anticipate the garden’s enemies above ground by
destroying their egg-masses, films, webs, etc., by
spraying every climber, pillar, standard bush and knoll roses, and
every shrub in our gardens.

That Fall spraying should not be done until after the ground
freezes, and it is most essential that the spraying should be thorough
from the ground to the topmost tips and the soil at the base as well,
every branch and twig should be saturated with a lime and sul-
phur spray made with ten ounces of lime-sulphur mixture and
five ounces of arsenate of lead paste to twenty gallons of water.

(I cannot possibly overrate the value of this Fall spraying,
and if it is done conscientiously and thoroughly you will be con-
vinced next Summer of its importance and of its value.)

“=~ specialize in that particular problem, need or worry of

yours will do so.— ve a I
NEW AND OLD WOOD OF SHRUBS

@. Ido not understand how to tell the new wood of shrubs
from the old.

A. The new wood is comparatively thin, flexible and green,
or greenish brown in color; wood one year old is brown and firm,
and the bark is smooth and: clear, and the old wood is dark and
the bark is rough and dull.

* *

HYBRID LILACS NOT BLOOMING

Q. My hybrid lilacs did not bloom this Spring. I noticed that
the old flower sprays were still there. Should they have been
taken off?

A. Yes, indeed they should. All lilac sprays and panicles
should be cut away when faded to prevent seed from maturing.
This is very necessary and so quickly done that I cannot under-
stand why it is neglected, as it is the “seeding” and not the “flow-
ering” that exhausts any plant.

WISTARIA NOT BLOOMING

Q. Ihave awonderfully luxuriant Wistariavine. It is about
ten years old and has never bloomed. Could you tell me why?

A. It is too luxuriant in foliage. All the strength, all the vi-
tality has apparently gone to foliage. This is undoubtedly due to
the lack of hard pruning; then again it may be a seed-grown vine
and not a grafted Wistaria; very frequently seed-grown Wistaria
never blooms; this is just another example of the whims of flowers.
I would suggest that in the Fall you have the soil deeply loosened
all around the Wistaria’s base, work into the loosened soil a quart
of bone meal and a quart of lime. Cut back a// the side growths
to one-inch spurs, that is one inch from where the side growths
spring; this is called spurring. After a “top” killing frost, have
three or four heaping shovelfuls of rotted stable manure dug into
the soil, where a few weeks before the lime and bone meal had
been dug in. In the Spring give each vine two ounces of Sulphate
of Iron, spread thinly over the surface and worked into the soil.

(The above answers the numerous letters received relative
to ‘“Wistaria’”’ not blooming.)

*e KF &

PLANTING AT BASE OF WALL

@. What shall I plant this Fall that is hardy in a border at
the base of a wall? The wall is of red brick, four feet high. I
am having the border prepared now. It will be two and a half
feet deep, and almost a hundred feet long. As it is on one side of
a roofed terrace where my family spend the greater part of the
day, I am very anxious that it be pleasing to the eye. There isa
flagged path the entire length, terminating in stone steps leading
down to the herbaceous garden.

A. Red brick walls must be well considered in planning for an
harmonious border. White and Pale Gold and Blue are the
colors I should choose to plant directly next to a red wall. White
Delphinium moerheimi, five feet tall, and at different points but
not regularly spaced, the King of Delphiniums, five feet tall all

the length of the border, the Chimney Bell flower, both the blue
and the white for late blooms; it is called Campanula pyrami-
dalis and grows to five feet. Again, at different points, bulbs of
Lilium auratum (Gold Band Lily of Japan) for early lilies, and
Lilium speciosum Alba for late lilies. The golden note all the
length of the border in small masses could be of Golden Day lilies
(variety Thunbergii) and clumps of Columbine of the following va-
rieties: Golden Chrysantha, Munstead Giant White, Caerulea, Pale
Blue, groups of blue and of white Platycodon tall and Platycodon
dwarf, and Japanese Iris, blue, pale blue and gray blue, and blue
and white and gold German Iris. Clumps of White and Blue
Carpathian harebells and a border of Violas cornuta, White and
Gold and Blue. Here and there border masses of ever-blooming
Forget-me-nots and Alyssum saxatile (gold). Every variety in
this border would be of value, because when not in flower the
foliage of each is attractive and flowers in abundance would
be here all Spring, Summer and Autumn. In the Spring plant
Clematis henryi (white) and Romano (old blue) here and there
to creep along the top and over the red brick wall.— - ww Jo

pene hs <a Ae aS: - =.

OUR GARDEN FORUM

—— CAS a Oe ee oe

s1eane

“>. LL subscribers are requested to contribute short articles to
Hs _ Our Garden Forum relative totheir garden experiences,
4 + successes and difficulties, and matters of interest pertaining
\ , to unusual garden conditions, the whims of flowers, etc.

My Dear Editor:

In the June number of “Our Garden Journal” Elizabeth, in
her German Garden, says: ‘“Who am I that I should do battle with
athrip?” I was telling a friend of mine of the rose spray to rout
the enemies of the rose garden (June number of our Garden Jour-
nal), and which I have found most successful in results. My friend
was from Bermuda, and the conversation naturally turned from
bugs to beautiful gardens, and then on prolific potatoes and onions.
This was startling, for I had never heard of “Bermuda Bugs.”
The Fruit Fly, Fire-worm, and the thousand and one species of
blight were unknown to me. My friend waxed enthusiastic in his
turn.

“We have bugs for everything except potatoes and onions,”
he said. ‘“ Why those exceptions?” I asked. “It is believed,” my
friend replied profoundly, “that the bugs were imported from the
States, but knowing that Bermuda exists on the exportation of
these vegetables, they turned their attention to the articles in-

tended for home consumption. Why,” he continued, warming up
to his subject, “our bugs multiply so fast and wax fat on so little that
they anticipate the crops and eat the printed directions on the par-
cels of seeds in the seedsman’s store, so that if you buy a packet
intending to beautify your garden you are just as likely to reapa
perforated crop of cauliflower. On the other hand, if you are
working on the ‘arm and farm’ principle, and try to stock your
vegetable garden, you are just as likely to find yourself witha
bunch of American Beauty Roses—minus the ‘beauty.’ Why,
we have bugs not only in our gardens, but a separate species for
every article of furniture in the house. Our ‘Best Bermuda
Bug’ can get through a volume of theology quicker than a
Bishop, and our ‘Borer Bug’ can convert a brand new sideboard
into a piece of old furniture quicker and more thoroughly than an
antique dealer on Fourth Avenue.”

My friend had wandered from the subject of gardening and
I endeavored to lead him back, but he would have none of it.

“See this suit of clothes,” he asked; “it started life as a per-
fect specimen of English blue serge, but one night the bugs got
merry and laid their eggs, or deposited their spawn—or whatever
they do when contributing their bit to natural history—and in the
morning I found myself the owner of this variegated checkered
suit.”

My dear Editor, after this the topic would no longer interest
you, so I leave you as I left my friend, a sadder but wiser man.

When I first started growing roses I must admit I wasa
little alarmed, as you stated had been your experience, but on
learning the condition in Bermuda I feel we gardeners have not so
much to contend with after all_—A. P.

Editor Our Garden Journal:

Last September I received a carload of rhododendrons which
I wished to use for massing. The stock was very fine and
arrived in excellent condition, and each one was in burlap with
plenty of soil around the roots. They were home-grown rhodo-

dendrons. Will it surprise you that not a single one of them sur-
vived the Winter? The nurseryman who has supplied me for
years and has always pleased and given me thorough satisfaction
came a long distance to see me on receipt of my letter concerning
the loss. He took hold of one rhododendron, a heavy, four foot
one, pulled lightly, and out it came. The reason for all of them
dying, he said, was that they had been put in too shallow holes,
that were not even deep or wide enough to cover all the roots ;
in fact, some of the roots were showing everywhere, and no pro-
tective Winter mulch had been provided.

Many large broad plants of Mountain Laurel also met the
same fate for the same reason; also many dwarf, pyramid form
Arborvitae. I had no redress; my “head” gardener under whom
the work had been done has been replaced by a newman. [|
hope this experience of mine may be of some assistance to other
amateur gardeners who may be setting rhododendrons this
Fall.—A. V. I.

[ SoME NEW GARDEN

He, SD EAE EA AE SSE MEE ES CS

THE JOYOUS ART OF GARDENING

: By Frances Duncan

| HERE be delights,” says an ancient writer, ‘that will
fetch the day about from sun to sun and rock the tedious
year as in a delightful dream.” Thus, and very much

——— after this manner, the charming old prose-poet, amiably
garden-mad, continues page after page, to describe the “1000
delights” to be found in the “flowery orchard” of his century—
describes them with an abandon of happiness that suggests the
rapture of St. Bernard when hymning the New Jerusalem.

Miss Duncan says: “In fact, barring the equally ancient and
alluring pastime of going a-fishing, no hobby has a stronger grip
on its devotees than gardening. At four o’clock of a summer
morning Celia Thaxter could be found at work in her radiant little
island plot, a sister in spirit to old Chaucer when on his knees in
the grass at dawn to watch a daisy open. And these were not
exceptional, not extraordinary cases, of devotion; they were
merely typical exponents of the true gardener’s passion.”

Nor is this tense enthusiasm fleeting. Not in the least! It
is no more transient than the bibliomaniac’s passion, no more
evanescent than the collector’s zeal. What Miss Duncan says

is true, true of the old and the young, and true of those neither
young nor old, this very real and abiding passion for gardening.
“Tf this little book,’ to quote Miss Duncan, ‘solves the com-
monest difficulties and proves of real assistance in the Joyous
Adventure of a First Garden, its object will have been attained.”

In size the book is “little,” but in information it is “big.”
Big inasmuch that it covers every need of the beginner from the
very real reformation of the homely backyard fence to a most
subtle and absorbing amount of understandable information for
the garden large and small.

The Joyous Art of Gardening, published by Charles Scribner’s
Sons, New York, contains many helpful and interesting illustra-

tions.— Zz a ZL
BOOKS RECEIVED
(TO BE REVIEWED LATER)

““The Garden Under Glass,’’ By W. F. Rowles . . . . . . J. B. Lippincott Company
““ The Mary Frances Garden Book,”’ By Jane Eayre Fryer . . John C. Winston Company

PLANTS

HARDY HERBACKOUS

Alyssum Bu ee Fe

Rostratum and Saxatile

Anchusa italica.
Aconitums.
Angustifolia .
Dropmore .
Myosotiflora .
Opal

Perry’s
Marguerites .
Marguerites .
Anemones .
Aquilegia .
Chrysantha
Coerulea
Canadensis
Glandulosa
Helenae .

Nivea . 6
Purple Queen
Delicatissima
Armeria .
Arabis . :
Asters (hardy) .
Bleeding Heart
Bocconia
Boltonia . Agee
Campanula carpathica

Candytuft (iberis) .
Shasta Daisy.

Funkia

Gaillardias.
Gypsophila paniculata.
Heucheras.

Yellow Day Lilies.
German Iris.

Japanese Iris.

Siberian Iris.

FOR

FALIL PLANTING

. hardy varieties.

. both golden yellow. The latter grows
about ten inches high, the former
about eighteen inches.

. varieties.

. (Monkshood).

. June through to September.

. fine foliage.

. New Dwarf, May and June.

. opal tints, June and July.

. deep blue, June and July.

. white.

- yellow.

. (Japanese).

. columbines.

- pale gold.

. blue, lilac and white.

. red and yellow, naturalize.

. blue, white corolla.

. purest white.

. royal purple.

. flesh pink.

. (thrift) pink and white.

. white and pink.

. (Michaelis daisies).

. (Dielytra) pink.

. (Plume Poppy) for flower cloud effects.

. pink-white for flower clouds.

. a blue and a white dwarf variety (eighteen
inches), and Pyramidalis, a blue and
white, tall (five feet). Only these
Campanulas may one expect to win-
ter safely with protection.

. (Iberis) hardy white.

. all the Funkias.

HTN VOC U OC EO PTTTITITITINE TITEL ke Ce 2 OC ee CO ce y

OAUTH
R.VERNAY has im his collection

= a number of interesting old
= English Silver Vases, Bowls,ctc.,

suitable for flowers.

TOUT

A William and Mary
Silver Montieth Bowl,
by George Lewis, 1707

Vernay

OLD ENGLISH FURNITURE, SILVER, PORCELAIN, POTTERY £s GLASSWARE

NEW YORK, 10, 12, 14 East Forry-FiFTH St.
BOSTON, 282 Dartmoutu St.
LONDON, W., 217 PiccapILLy

TTT

WOO

=—_—

i
OO EEETETETETcETETETEocoR AAA Acc

THAT Oe ,

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS
FOR FALL PLANTING

(Continued from page 68)

Japanese Lilies.

Roseiim.

Rubrum.

Album.

Melpomene and Auratum (Golden Band Lily of Japan).
Lily of the Valley.

Lobelia cardinalis.

Lupins (hardy).

Polyphyllusiey einen nee ec learesteplucs

Poly pbyAlusieey- ene Wie

Polyphyllus ...... . . . .Moerheimi pink, crimson spot.

Lychnis.

Chalcedonicame sea Scarlet.

Haageana... ee eesoLanverscanlet:

Monarda soilendlens Fe Sere . crimson scarlet.

Myosotis (Forget-me-not), Dannie Semperflorens, hardy Forget-me-not.

Penstemon, barbatustorreyi. . . vivid scarlet flowers.

Peonies.

Phlox.

Platycodons (Japanese Bell-Flower).

Blue-white.

Dwarf Platycodon, Mariesi.

Primulas.

Veris Superba. .... . . . . canary yellow and gold, hardy with pro-
tection.

Rudbeckia .... ... . . . only plant ‘‘ Rays of Gold’”’ an improve-
ment over Golden Glow.

Spiraea, Gigantea carnea . . . . rose-violet.

ATuncus»kneitii ) 0-0 een bite tall.

Brunhildeyeea ee ee allvicarOser

Filipendula ...... . . . . double white dwarf.

Gigantearosea. ...... . . . fine pink.

Palmeataleny-: eee ie cece ome ep Inks

Salmoni@weentes en e-enSalimonEnose:

Oriental Poppies.

Trollius (Globe-Flower) . . . . . semi-shade.

Lythrum.

Perry’s variety (cherry-red).

Physostegia.... . . . . White, pink, flesh.

Polygonum (commas)

Stokessea .. . . blue and a new white form.

Thalictrum, fowerine: Maiden- Hae!
Sweet William.

Veronica.
Violas == ... .. . . Hybrid Atropurpurea.
White Day Lakes - . . . . . . Ssubcordata Grandiflora.

bmoimes LUGCS

he newest glories of Spring Savdens

The master hybridizer, M. Victor Lemcine, has touched with his magic this : s
old-fashioned flower so full of memories of the old homestead, and a new age
world of wonderful blossoms has ccme, a multitude of new forms and colors,

a permeating fragrance that is Spring. ELLEN WILLMOTT, with long

pointed snow-white trusses of flowers nearly an inch in diameter; MADAM —
BUCHNER, flushed with soft rose; BELLE DE NANCY, soft lilac-pink; .
LEON GAMBETTA, with semi-double flowers almost as large and as 7 ut
perfectly formed as tuberoses; WALDECK-ROUSSEAU, great trusses of eee
dark violet. These and other varieties in great abundance as well as a pro-
fusion of old-fashioned flowers, Tritoma, Delphinium, Japanese Anemones,
Deutzia, Lonicera, Oriental Poppies, make my Wyomissing gardens the ~
Mecca of flower lovers in May and June, while many of the country’s most
beautiful places repeat their fragrant glories. My Lilacs are grown on their
own roots, many of which I have imported direct from France.

The old sweet-scented PHILADELPHUS (Mock Orange) that close
rival of the Lilac, has also received Lemoine’s particular attention and
should have yours. It is a refined and beautiful shrub and groups with the
Lilac most effectively. Forty varieties, of varying shapes and colors, in-
cluding the wonderful VIRGINAL, are in my collection. i

My PEONIES and IRIS have won expert praise and highest awards
everywhere—Gold Medal (highest award) and Certificate of Merit at the
Panama-Pacific Exposition for my German Iris. Gold medals of the Ameri-
can Peony Society, 1914 and 1916, for my Feonies.

Let me send you

Farr’s Hardy Plant Specialties

Tke book describes and lists the Lemoine Lilacs, Philadelphus, Japan-
ese and German Iris, more than 500 varieties of Peonies, Evergreens, Rock
Plants, and Hardies; 112 pages of text, 30 full-page illustrations, 13 in full
color; a book of definite value and help. It will be sent on request.

BERTRAND H. FARR, Wyomissing Nurseries Co.
Garfield Avenue, West, Wyomissing, Pa.

' 4 O not leave anything to be done next Spring that may be done
—— ' this Fall.

in i) Shrubs and Evergreens shculd be planted as solid as a rock.

D In planting Evergreens it is not sufficient to see that they
~——=—_ are properly planted; it is of just as much importance to see that
they receive a regular watering every few days until the rainy season.

Shrubs know no courtesy and have no sense of honor, they do not hesi-
tate to rob their neighbors of their food and drink; for this reason they should
be planted well apart.

You cannot expect success with shrubs or evergreens if they are crowded
together or permitted to interlace.

In planting a shrubbery, avoid placing all the tallest specimens at the
rear of the shrubbery, working them down step by step, toward the front; to
me this always suggests a flight of stairs.

Do not be afraid of giving some of the more important ones (as to size)
a place nearer the front—well in front. Try it; you will be surprised to find
that your shrubbery will have the appearance of being increased in size, and
what is more, it certainly wil//J have more charm.

Forsythia suspensa is an ideal shrub for labyrinth planting.
Never prune your evergreen trees unless it be to control their form or size.

When the center of a shrub seems crowded, have the thick, exhausted
shoots cut out right down to the ground.

Have all the holes dug and made ready this Fall for the deciduous trees
you plan to plant next Spring. The work of getting them into the ground
quickly is so important, with the holes ready to receive them, with the soil
heaped up beside each hole, you realize how speedily the work can be done.

When it is possible, have the new evergreens brought where their place
in the garden is to be, and held in position so you may judge of their effect.

To induce the deep rooting of shrubs spread a layer of rotted stable ma-
nure at the bottom of each hole and cover with earth.

Lime the soil this Fall in which established shrubs are growing; work it
into the surface.

What Hicks Nurseries Can Do

ARE Shrubs. Berry Bearing Shrubs that feed the birds and give
you garden joy all winter.

Hardy flowers.

Evergreen Trees 15 feet high to give a background to the garden and frame
the beautiful views. September and December are good times to plant them.

Evergreens 5 feet high that will be happy in your situation all their
lives. September is a good time to plant them.

Shade trees 25 years old or 5 years old all ready for October and
November planting.

Accurate knowledge on fitting trees to your soil and exposure.

Accurate knowledge on moving large trees 40 feet wide. Men and
machinery to do it successfully.

Series of booklets on trees and their service to you. They are fresh
and breezy, not dull and bothersome.

Reks INUESETIES "37

PETERSON, SINCLAIRE & MILLER!

TAZA,

May we have the opportunity of quoting you on all require-
ments for the Garden and Lawn? Our service will please you.

We supply only ARTICLES OF TESTED EXCELLENCE.

CARTER’S FAMOUS SEEDS
REX HUMUS

Fertilizers of All Kinds, Implements, Watering Systems, Etc.

LAWN CONSTRUCTION A SPECIALTY

Catalogs and other data gladly furnished. Our “ Turf Engineering” and “Rex
Humus” booklets should interest every estate owner. Mailed on request.

PETERSON, SINCLAIRE & MILLER, Inc.

25 WEST FORTY-FIFTH STREET, NEW YORK PHONE 955 BRYANT “i

EREMURUS

for FALL PLANTING

ur large accli-

mated clumps,
transplanted this Fall
will flower early
next summer.

Plants become firmly
established before
winter.

Extra Strong
Acclimated Clumps
$4.50 Each

JOHN SCHEEPERS 6 CO,., Inc.

Flower Bulb Specialists
2 STONE STREET -:- NEW YORK

LOE SA SEE
—~ << ?

= ——

C. FRANCINI

IMPORTER of MARBLE
EXCLUSIVELY

255 LEXINGTON AVENUE :: NEW YORK
TELEPHONE: MURRAY HILL 6284

BULBS for FALL «'
PLANTING S}

Is the Title of our AUTUMN CATALOGUE

For September Planting

Paper White Narcissus (Freesia Purity )
Madonna Lilies (Lilium Candidum)

For October and November
Planting

Tulips—Hyacinths—Daffodils
Other Liliums and Miscel-
laneous Bulbs

If you desire varieties for indoor
blooming, and want suggestions,
write us.

STUMPP ©& WALTER CO.
30-32 Barclay Street

New York
Miss JoHNSTON
= announces a x
DS new series of DY

GARDEN LECTURES
for GARDEN LOVERS
Season of 1917-1918

“American Gardens in Color”

including”
The Intimate Garden
Formal Gardens
Gardens of the Pacific Coast

Dates ond Terms on Application to
Frances Benjamin Johnston
500 Fifth Avenue, New York
Telephone Vanderbilt 2358

ral

ee.
My,

Ly Dn..n5 SaaS
Tce ap
SHINN iiss AS

IMPORTERS
DESIGNERS

FIFTH AVE
AT 4G™ ST.

PARIS
NEW YORK

HUTALOYHR EACLE =

NATE AHN

EnUIUUTCUTIUTTITIGSS CUTOUT

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i ae ey ae ae,
GARDEN ORNAMENTS OLD & NEW

| ave Dus
IN \ MGR {BI _ SIC NE
TERR Corta é C

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DE SIG. N TERRA ES
ENTR gANCES ETC.
CONSVLTATION BY
APPOINTMENT AT
RESIDENCE
CATALOGVE S0*

NEW YORK-7 W.47 ST. From original by Mr Howard

FRANCIS HOWARD PpREs.
Phone Vanderbilt 193

HOWARD STDIOS pees

THE PLAZA HOTEL

Eabodies everything of beauty. luxury,
location and creature comfort that
can be demanded by the most exac ting
hotel dweller.

Dunng the winter season the Plaza
is the centre of fashion and ca
or and balkroom with its splendid
abpomtments 1s the stage upon which
is produced a preat number of the
large banquets, alls and other enter-

tainments that count mn the social |

life of the Metropolis.

FIFTH AVENUE AND 59™ STREET

FRED STERRY, MANAGING DIRECTOR

ea me y wate s eevee Saas Ts roy meres rire we

es) CO

o/Mineteen undred and Seventeen

NUMBER
THREE

Vi Orn OO Mis
ON EB

ebb ein Heb bb bb bid ded dl i ffl

OUR GARDEN JOURNAL

An Ilustrated Quarterh
Conducted and Controlled
By Amateur flower Gardeners
Devoted Farin
O ;
The Art of Flower Gardening’
For the Amateur Gardener.
Mrs. Herbert Harde--Editor.

CONTENTS OF THIS ISSUE

DECEMBER, 1917 Vot.1 No.3

HELIOTROPE—Poem Gabrielle Mulliner Pace

IN THE HARMONIOUS GARDEN Elinore E. Harde if

IN A GARDEN ENTHUSIAST’S GARDEN

TREES OF CHARM

A FEW OF MY FAVORITES

SOME NOVELTIES

ON THE SOWING OF SEEDS IN FLATS AND BORDERS

PERENNIALS BLOOMING THE FIRST SUMMER FROM EARLY
“SPRING SOWN SEED

SPRING SOWN ANNUALS

NATURE’S MINIATURES

ON THE SOWING OF SEEDS OF HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS

VISTAS

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

OUR GARDEN FORUM

SOME NEW GARDEN BOOKS

GARDEN NOTES

AVES AY

GARDEN TERRACE

THE PERGOLA WALK

i) THE FORMAL GARDEN
4X Gz G \ :

' 4 Vote YY

PUBLISHED BY CUR GARDEN JOURNAL
AT FIFTY SIX WEST FORTY FIFTH STREET,NEW YORK
SUBSCRIPTION SIX DOLLARS THES YEAR-BY INVITATION ONLY

Copyrighted Nineteen Seventeen By ElinoreE Harde

«}

AN
APPEAL

H, I hope there will be no cruel or adverse
criticism of those who are growing flowers
under glass! I know of a great greenhouse
maintained at the correct temperature by the

use of wood, old stumps, discarded logs, etc., that could

be utilized in no other way and when dipped in crude oil
proved very satisfactory for maintaining a proper green-

house temperature. Flowers comfort us, of that fact I

am absolutely certain. A little mother whose only child

is “Somewhere in France” received a letter from her boy

a few days before her birthday, begging her to have near

her the roses she knew “boy” would give, were he near

enough to do so. “Why mother I’ll know if you haven’t
your birthday roses, just assure as I live. Something will
tell me and I’ll be wretched, my lonely “Little Muvver’”’;
so make your “‘Laddie’s” peace of mind assured by having
your roses. It will be the first time since I can remember

I haven’t handed them to you myself. Feel my arms

around you, best, most unselfish of Mothers, all the day of

the Twenty-fourth and remember, that You, precious, are

my dearest thought in life and I’m “Over Here” because
I wanted you to be proud of me. I envy the birthday
roses, because you will hold them to your face in the way
you always do; so, Mother, try to feel I am as near in
spirit as your birthday roses are in reality. Bless you
every day, all your sweet and kindly life.”

I heard Dr. Nicholas Murray Butler say recently:
“Now that so much that was beautiful and an inspiration
has been destroyed, let us see to it, that all that we possess
in art and beauty is treasured as never before.”

III

HELIOTROPE

In the sunniest garden in Sussex
The loveliest Heliotrope grows,
It riots in sweet~scented borders,
And then, breaking bounds, overflows
Out to the flags of the footpath,
Exploring, and each crevice fills

Lill the whole of the old sunny garden
Is purple. As if, when it spills
A mid-summer sunset, the Heavens
Some cloud-linings dropped down below |!
With fleecy white phlox as a border 13
For each purple cloud. And they grow
So heavenly sweet in this garden
In Sussex.in sunshine aglow,
Lwould I were back in that garden
Where clusters of Heliotrope grow.

Gabrielle Mulliner

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ARMONY in Gardens? Does not even voic-
ing the words bring to mind all that is sweet
and fine in color? The poet who insisted
that the two most euphonious words in the
English Language were “cellar-door” when

= said slowly and softly, with a rising in-
flection, og evidently forgotten all about the word “har-
mony” just as we sometimes forget its meaning and place
flowers side by side that are in
perpetual feud, robbing them of
their color rights which we have
destroyed. Flowers are so help-
less; they are in our hands to

* place at will. A vivid orange

Calendula hand in hand with a

pale pink bloom! Needless to say, poor little pink
bloom grows pale and wan while orange Calen-
dula’s feelings cannot be determined, being so
very yellow. It is not always what we plant in
our gardens but where, and how, for a garden
may include all the most beautiful flowers and yet
be lacking in harmony and you will recognize this
lack of harmony—you will wonder and wonder
why. Should we find we have made mistakes,
they need not remain to reproach us day after
day, because, you know, most of the nurseries
supply throughout the entire Summer potted
plants of almost every kind of flowers, and if we
find we have erred in assembling colors, or vari-
eties, we can remove them.

We owe it to our gardens that they be har-
\. monious, for of all the material things that give
us real pleasure, surely our gardens have the
least reason to be inharmonious. Women nat-
urally have a cultivated eye for color, for arrange-

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of
ment, for harmony. I have found that most ama- ee
teur gardeners now study harmony very thor-
oughly. Last Summer I visited a number of truly
beautiful gardens. Some of them great and im- ry
portant, some small and delicately lovely. They ;
were all dreamed of, planned (and some planted)
by amateur gardeners.

I have heard many discussions during the
past year as to individual aptitude for becoming a
successful amateur gardener. I have met many
women who insist they have none of the qualities
essential to that end, which reminded me of the
subscriber to a “Garden Talk’ I gave three years
ago, who wrote, “I am not eager to become a
gardener, but I am eager to become a ‘puddler’
so please, Mrs. Harde, will you not be most ex-
plicit about puddling 2?”

In becoming an expert “puddler” (puddling
roots in soft mud) this subscriber unconsciously
drifted into a real gardener of the practical sort,

Z y aif a - *
ie ~ ae i TR
38,
the kind that finds garden work only another z
name for play, for health, and for a sweeter inter- ig
est in life. s
Harmony is such an elusive quality in one’s ee,
garden, that I do not know of any better way to af
speak of harmony than to tell you of some actual :
plantings resulting in rare and harmonious pic- ae
tures. Ay
THE WHITE AND GOLD GARDEN a3;
In the white and gold garden only white and is
gold flowers bloomed. The crested white blossoms re
of Philadelphus Virginale, the tall rockets of buff ee
and unspotted white Foxgloves, white Physoste-
gia, golden and white Delphiniums (tall), Madon- __ | Re
na Lilies, Trollius (Golden Globe Flower), white Nw }

Peonies, the Bride and Queen Victoria; Yellow
Peonies, Solfaterre and Duchesse de Nemours
and Lupines (white and gold), tall Campanulas,
White Pyramidalis, White Japanese Anemones,

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Golden Coreopsis, Great White Bellflower, By
Grandis Alba, Golden Aconitum Lycoctonum, vg
Shasta Daisies, Auratum Lilies, Yellow Snap- oe
Dragons (tall), St. Bruno Lilies, Speciosum Lil- ce,

ies Alba, Golden and White and White Colum-
bines, Hemerocallis (yellow day lily) Citrina,
White and Yellow Snap-Dragons (dwarf), White
Carpathian Harebells, Pansies (gold and white
and bronze), Violas Cornuta (all gold), White
Iberis and Hardy Golden Alyssum and Creeping
White Phlox, many nests of White and Yellow
Gladiolus (seven bulbs in each nest) were planted
at intervals on each side. Everything was hardy
but the Snap-Dragons and Gladiolus.

There were flowers here in great profusion
over a period of several months, beginning with
Philadelphus Virginale and Foxgloves and end-
ing only after a blighting frost, Anemones, Cam-
panula Pyramidalis, Hare-bells and Violas Cor-

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THE ETHEREAL BORDER

Perhaps one might imagine that the plants
and bulbs and roots in the ethereal border are not
within the province of the small garden, but the
great garden or even the tiny garden may have
its ethereal border with no greater effort as to
labor than required for a border of annuals.
Everything in the ethereal border is hardy and it
is all white and gold with just a touch of blue in
the edging. That anything so rare and sweet and
fine as the ethereal border should be hardy, living
on indefinitely with only a root or bulb replaced
now and then, seems beyond belief. It is truly
lamentable—this lack of knowledge concerning
our most exquisite garden treasures, the really
permanent factors in a well considered garden.
If you will but recall the intrinsic charm of our
long spurred hybrid columbines, maiden-hair
ferns, heucheras, all the delphiniums and specio-
sum lilies—the Eremuri and the countless garden

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ardent A
beauties that we should realize are hardy, are per-
manent, you will agree that they should be more
widely planted.

It has been a matter of considerable com-
ment that the newest and rarest novelties are Lf
nearly all hardy. The ethereal border should LS
have as a background a hedge, a balustrade or a

(Ft
low wall which may be of brick, cement or stone. i
I will describe this particular ethereal border in cs
detail exactly as it is. The extreme background a
has a double row of the infinitely lovely white %
Delphinium Moorheimi. As it blooms continu- pes
ously there are always flowersinthisbackground. “©
Roots of Eremuri Bungei golden yellow and Kis
Eremurus albus white with Cimicufuga Simplex, i
are planted irregularly a foot in advance of is

Campanula Pyramidalis with small groups (four
or five in a group) of the Japanese Iris, “Gold
Bound.” This is a remarkable Iris of purest
white with golden center. Groups of Madonna

GRAN Re H AE OMAP CLARE,
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lilies for early lilies are ten inches away from each i
group of “Gold Bound” Japanese Iris. In each tri- We
angular space a firm large bulb of Lilium Aura- a
tum is planted for superb mid-summer lilies; ten oN
inches away from the Auratum Lily groups of the nfs
late flowering, pure white Japanese Iris Kigan- 3
no-misao. This spacing of ten inches from cen- fi
ter leaves a liberal triangle. In these triangle
groups (four or five bulbs) of lilium Speciosum 63
Album. These provided late lilies. Speciosum
Album are the most wonderful of all the Japanese 0h
lilies. The petals are of great substance, the eS
raised dots have a luster as of pearls while the Uae
entire flower appears illumined. I have found it Ss
to be as hardy, as enduring, as the wild tiger lilies. oe
A few inches away in advance and between are Ve

small masses of Heuchera White Empress, white
long spurred Columbine and the golden Colum-
bine Chrysantha, Maidenhair Ferns, Clumps of
Golden Day Lilies, near Speciosum Lilies Alba,

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white Platycodons tall and dwarf (Mareisi) and
as a finishing edge a double row of Carpathian
Harebells blue and the white, with small masses
of Violas in all the bare spaces in and about the
edging.

In late August when the Moerheimi Delphin-
iums are producing new flowering stalks, but
shorter, due to the continual cutting down of the
fading flower sprays to the base, the tall effect is
now given by the white Campanulas Pyramidalis
over five feet high and just coming into flower,
when you need them. The Madonna lilies have
departed, but are nobly replaced by the imperious
Auratum lilies. The Golden Day lilies are
abloom and will continue to bloom, held aloft on
their slender stems. The interesting Platycodons

\ will replace the Columbines, while the Maiden-

hair Ferns will be graceful neighbors. Lilium
Speciosum Album now commences to bloom. Oh,
how exquisite they are! The first heavy frost will

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find some of them still in bud and blossom. To
keep the ethereal border ethereally lovely, culti-
vate with care, cut away all fading flowers and
yellowing lily stalks. The green spears of the
Japanese Iris will be attractive until the putting
to sleep of our garden. Bone-meal and a little
Scotch soot worked into the soil when cultivating
will feed and keep this border nourished and the
Iris grub cannot exist where there is real soot in

the soil. The lily bulbs (all but the Madonna

lilies) should be planted eight inches deep, work-
ing sand into the soil over where they are planted.
Stake the tall Campanulas with the thinnest
green bamboo stakes, they are almost invisible
and at the same time very strong. Protect with
leaves scattered lightly through this border but
\ before doing so heap coal ashes over the crowns
of the Moerheimi Delphiniums.

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THE YUCCA WALK

Until recent years the Yucca plant has not
been appreciated as it should in garden making by
Amateur Gardeners, except in instances where
the amateur was striving for individualism and
real personality inthe garden. In public gardens,
parks, the Arnold Arboretum, etc., the stately
Yucca has been given a full measure of favor and
prominence, but it was an amateur who conceived
the Yucca walk, one of the most distinguished
garden achievements in its realization. The
Yucca (Filamentosa) is, you must agree, an ex-
tremely decorative plant, both in lower and when
its divergent leaves, bayonet pointed and almost
evergreen, present a truly tropical appearance.
The Yucca walk was made through a velvety
aN "* lawn, as a practical pathway from the house ter-
race to a tea-house almost a hundred and twenty
feet distant. Treading stones were fitted into the
sod regularly for a natural stepping all the way

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until within six feet of the entrance to the tea-
house, where a platform of field-stone was made.
The stepping stone pathway was only three feet
wide, the two borders, one each side of the path-
way, were thirty inches wide. The sod was all
removed and the long beds prepared as for a per-
ennial border, deeply dug and well fertilized.
Splendidly uniform Yucca plants of large size
were spaced with minute exactness, two feet
apart, directly in the center of each border. At
each side of the borders strong roots of White
Day Lilies were planted each root given twelve
inches for its very own. Hardy ferns with slen-
der fronds thriving in half or full sun, Maid-
enhair Ferns of all heights, and Summer Hya-
cinths Candicans and St. Bruno Lilies (Antheri-
cum) and white Speciosum Lilies Alba. In late
May and early June the St. Bruno lilies were a
cloud of white. In June and July the Yuccas
bloomed. Superb flower rockets nearly five feet

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tall neighbored by delightful ferns and the foliage ie
of the White Day Lilies (Subcordata Grandiflora)
which blossomed just as the Hyacinthus Candi-
cans stopped blooming. White Day Lilies, so ex- eh
quisite, with so delicious a perfume flowered with af
the Alba Lilies on and on, until Autumn. Here, *
in these long borders, each side of the walk, were a

hardy flowers and ferns and rare foliage from
the beginning to the very end of flower time, re- Le:
quiring no particular care, nothing really but cul- ae
tivation, which is but little indeedforso generous #%
a display continuing over several months. os
At each side of the square field-stone plat- oe
form at the entrance to the round tea-house, a a
group of Japanese Umbrella pines were planted, Ee ul
all were of different heights. The Chinese Um- i

Af
brella pine is a treasure so hardy, so beautiful and ‘ ‘

foliaged almost to the ground. As an accentuat-
ing evergreen of the finer sort, it is perfect.

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IN A GARDEN ENTHUSIAST’S GARDEN

I saw a great bed of asters, only one variety,
Pink Enchantress, the bed was bordered with
dwarf purple heliotrope “Regal.” Early in the
Summer several hundred bulbs of Madonna Lilies
had produced the blooms for this bed and after
their season had passed the aster plants had been
“set” filling in by measurement, a thousand Pink
Enchantress plants. The heliotrope border re-
placed the Irish (St. Brigid) Anemones which
had bloomed with the Madonna Lilies. The he-
liotrope was pot-grown and already in flower
when planted between the cut-down Irish Ane-
mones. This planting was at the base of a long
rather high wall over which Wistaria vines were

"/ * draped and whose orchid mauve-blue flower pen-

dants had graced most delightfully the Madonna
Lilies and Irish Anemones in early Summer.

A distant planting suggested a colorful cloud,
a blending of blue and gray, of purple and laven-

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der, of mauve and ivory, cream and rose. All the
tallest, waviest and most graceful late blooming
flowers were there. They were Physostegia,
Cimicifuga Simplex and Michaelmas Daisies of
various heights, the Michaelmas Daisies, Climax,
Peggy Ballard, Lil Fardell, Novae Roseus, Saphir,
Top Sawyer, Snowflakes and Feltham Blue. In
the background many plants of each were irreg-
ularly spaced to admit strong plants of the palest
lavender pink, pale pink and white Physostegia.
The Asters and Cimicifuga came to the edge in
irregular lines and groups, forming a wonderful
flower vista. This flower cloud, aside from its
beauty, furnished a most practical and permanent
planting and will live on and on indefinitely with
very little care. |

I saw a fifty-foot bed of Snapdragons—tall,
half-dwarf and dwarf. They were edged with
trailing blue Lobelia. A stonewall was almost
completely covered with Trier Climbing Roses

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and Flower of Fairfield Roses. Thecreamy gold &

flowers of Trier with centers of brilliant yellow

stamens were happily placed as a background to a
the Snapdragons and as both these ramblers are
continuous bloomers, they beautified the wallfor ¢@:
over four months. Flower of Fairfield isanim- 4%
proved Crimson Rambler,soimmensely superior,
one can hardly believe they are of the same fam- i :
ily. It is absolutely a continuous bloomer, not 33
meagerly, but lavishly, until freezing weather. |
It should be generously fed. Zs

I saw a terrace abloom with what seemed to a
be thousands and thousands of rose rockets, but 4%
when I neared it, I found it was a clever planting Bs

of Tausendschoen Roses. Their canes were ._
pegged down, close to the ground, naturally re-
sulting in producing laterals only on the upper
side of the canes, and since there were laterals
only on the upper side, the result was that they
sent forth a quantity of unusual blossoms—a
double quantity.

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I might say that when the faded blooms were i
@ pruned away, one-half of the laterals were also re- af
= moved. Wie;

As it was essential that this terrace be always o
abloom, when the faded flowers were removed, fe
pots filled with the mauve pink hybrid Hydran- ¥Y
geas Mousseline were sunk (“plunged”) about
one inch below the surface into the soil, and gt
spaced formally, three feet apart. Naturally the 3
cultivating screened all evidence of the sunken at
pots. Se

I saw a great bed of hardy phlox—all the a
colors massed together with a border of the Prin- 4
cess Pauline, Ageratum. Just a single row of
plants had spread in width and depth at least fif-
teen inches. All around the outer edge, of this

' frame of Ageratum, were lacey graceful plants of
Alyssum Bethami. Only one seed planted to

every twenty inches will produce this effect. It

is such a waste of Alyssum seed to sow it, except

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as single seed; moreover, it is the only way to see
Alyssum at its loveliest. To keep it abloom all
Summer long the first time you shear it do so in
the center, the next time shear the sides and new
flower caps will be produced continuously. An-
other charming bed was made with Salvia
Azurea (Grandiflora) and pink Lavatera with
the soft blue Verbenas as a frame. The Salvia
Azurea and pink Lavatera are at their best
from August on all through Autumn and that is
when we need them most. The blue Verbena
planted at the outset as seedlings spread over the
sod edge to the gravel path. Baskets of blooms
were cut from this bed every few days.

There was a two-foot border of Portulaca as
a ground cover, bordering the Sweet Peas, with
trailing, orderly masses of Blue Lobelia Gracillis.
All the newest varieties of Sweet Peas were
grown, the various colors separately grown, all
mauve, all pink, all blue, etc. No seed pods were

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allowed to develop and the flowers were cut every
day.

Groups of “Halley” Gladiolus rose from a
mass of pale pink Verbena, small plants of the
Verbena were set out when the Gladiolus bulbs
were just peeping out of the surface of the soil.
They spread over an area of many feet.

I saw Chimney Bell Flowers, so tall and so
blue, towering over the dwarf white Phlox,
Louise Abbema, and the shining Vinca Roseus,
near by rich, velvet, purple Gladiolus, Baron
Hulot (planted in mid-June), bloomed with the
Japanese Anemones, Kriemhilde, and Prince
Henry; they are both soft pink in color, and re-
placed brilliant Poppies, stately white Lilies and
Japanese Iris.

I saw a bed of Salvia “Azurea,” J. S. Brunton,
Delphiniums, and Salvia “Patens.” So blue was
this planting it seemed to have robbed the sky. I
saw at least a thousand blooms of Dianthus (Gar-

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den Pinks) as a carpet to countless pink Specio-
sum Lilies and Tuberoses.

I saw a lovely screen for hiding the denuded
stalks of the Hollyhocks which had had all their
leaves stripped off. The first group directly next
to the Hollyhocks was the great tall King of Del-
phimums, then Physostegia Virginica, a rare pale
pink with feathery plumes (or
as I heard some children ex-
claim “fairy wands’). “Oh
Mother, there’s fairy wands in
the garden!”

Groups of Elizabeth cue Phlox, peach
pink, and Mrs. Paul Dutrie, a mauve-blue orchid
shade, with violet blue Platycodon tall and the
two dwarf platycodons Maresi Blue, Maresi Alba,
and bulbs here and there of Gladiolus-Halley.
Each group balanced the other—the finer soften-
ing the coarser; since the habit of each is individ-

si i OR

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a!
ual, stake Platycodons tall with three slender "B
bamboo stakes in its half-grown stage, that is is
when it is about fifteen inches high. Cut all the :

flowers as they fade and so prolong their bloom-
ing season through to frost.

I saw eleven pyramidal evergreens. They
were irregular in height, averaging from fourteen
feet to about five feet. They were conspicuous,
but lacked a charming interest. This essential
quality was obtained by planting in advance of
them Japanese Maples and Japanese Azaleas.
The Japanese Maples were the blood-red lace-leaf
species while the Azaleas were the Mollis variety,
glowing gold and flame and bronzy apricot sal-
mon. The Maples and Azaleas were informally
placed, not studied as to spacing or arrangement.
The effect was brilliant. In this Garden Enthu-
siast’s garden I also saw climbing American
Beauty roses growing as pillars on cedar posts.
I counted more than sixty perfect blooms on each

pillar and there were countless buds. For quite
six weeks they were indeed, American Beauties.
And even after the blooms were gone, the foliage
was attractive.

I saw a long border made in a grassed ter-
race, in which grew tree, bush and baby bordering
fuschias. Begonias, semperflorens, dwarf he-
liotrope and tall heliotrope, with a border of scar-
let coleus. A three-foot formally clipped box
hedge served as the background of this border.
The border bed was slightly lower than the level
of the terrace. The colors blended in truest har-
mony and while I saw it in late September it was
without a suggestion of that “Summer has passed
look” so many of our most precious garden crea-
tions assume. The fuschias were purple and
cerise, all of them, the variety was Lord Byron,
both tree and bush; the baby bordering fuschia
was Carmen. The Coleus was a self-color
Ferschaffelti, the tall heliotrope Centefleur, and

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the dwarf Elizabeth Dennison. I saw a bed of
Salvia Patens and white Calla Lilies bordered
with gracillis lobelia. The Calla Lilies rose high
above the Salvia Patens. The beauty of this
planting made one exclaim. The Calla Lilies
were started in five-inch pots in good simple loam
in which soot and bone meal had been incerpor-
ated. When the sheaths of green were several
inches high the pots were “plunged” (sunken) in
the bed, this is no more trouble or more work than
planting gladiolus bulbs, or annuals, but you
create an effect quite beyond my power of de-
scribing. The Salvia Patens blossoms are just
the shade of blue of the J. P. Brunton delphinium
and grows about sixteen inches high. The lobelia
was gracilis the blue of Salvia Patens.

I saw a bed all of dwarf blue delphinium
Chinensis and pale pink Speciosum lilies and Spe-
ciosum lilies alba, the pink ones abloom from
early Summer to August when the Alba lilies be-

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gan to flower. These were all hardy plants and
bulbs. How exquisite it was, I know you will
realize.

I saw a great border of the annual Larkspurs,
tall, medium and dwarf, the latter in advance of
the former, of course. The background was a high
cement wall and it was draped and showering
with white Clematis, early, mid-summer, and late

and late. The early variety was the Montana
Grandiflora; the mid-summer variety the Mon-
tana Wilsoni, the late Paniculata. We cut lark-
spur here in mid-October, enormous quantities of
it. Why? Because it had not been allowed to go
to seed.

ru, I saw great stone bowls
filled with Blue Lilies-of-the
Nile. They were growing in
. large clay pots inside the deep
stone bowls, five tubers in

flowering, thus assuring flowers on the wall early —

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each ten-inch pot. The soil was rich, with an ms
inch of pulverized sheep fertilizer and a dusting os
of Scotch soot on the surface, which acted as a ni
mulch. Itis useless to attempt growing these pic- Bi
turesque and uncommon Lilies-of-the-Nile in the ai
open ground, but you can grow them there if after

they are started, the pots are plunged in the bed a
or border. They were very beautiful on the ter- ee
race and on the different levels leading down to #
a pool, and lower terrace. They are not difficult ie
to grow. Anyone who has ever grown a root or ge
bulb or tuber can grow the Blue Lily-of-the-Nile. pa,
I saw several thousand pearly Tuberoses na
growing through dwarf blue Delphinium Chinen- ae
sis, the bed bordered with Ageratum Little Blue Se
Star and as it grows but five inches high, in a com- \es \

pact, rather solid planting, nothing is better for
an enduring fine blue finishing line.

I saw a huge rock in the distance. At its base
Turks Cap lilies were massed, but well spaced

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_wilderingly lovely plants and vines, and lilies—
clouds of Fairy Lilies (Zephysanthes) and Dwarf
Yellow-Day Lilies, Iberis (Little Gem). Golden
Alyssum (Saxatile) were tucked into earth pock-

is | Ran
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apart. Trained up and over and along the top of es
the mammoth rock were Trumpet Vines (Radi- %
cans) their orange-gold red trumpets with the 19)
vivid lilies drew the eye to a cleverly conceived Be
objective point. Countless Spring flowering bulbs #
all yellow and yellow and white had been colon- id
ized here, multiplying and making golden the £
earth all about. It was a permanent and simple jet
achievement although a glowing and splendid "8
one. +
I saw a rock garden where narrow field-stone pa
steps led up from one level to another. There pes
were many levels and each quaint landing boasted oy
each side a very prim, very round, very miniature Za
Japanese table pine. They gave a most impor- hi
tant note to this rock garden, where grew be- \\H

Om (BB
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With blossoms from the hedge,
To wreath with pale rose garlands frail
The fountain’s carven edge.

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ets all about these interesting little pines. St. oy
Bruno lilies and dwarf grasses, white violets and 4
° ° ° Y
blue forget-me-nots, Armeria Alba, Spanish Iris aap
and dwarf Maidenhair Ferns carpeted a semi- 4
circle, beneath a tinkling wall fountain away up re
on the highest level of this rock garden. The %
fountain was an old one, a bronze Satyr’s head xv,
rested against a medalion of carved gray stone. pe
Sweet indeed is the music of falling water. Iwish 3
I could place a fountain somewhere in every gar- se
den. How charming is Charlotte Becker’s poem BS
of the fountain: bs
He heeds not mould, nor sun, nor cold Bc
The satyr at the spring, “fb
Where in and out, and all about Chi
The rippling water sing Ale
With what long gain of love and pain iF Sa
Their melody is fraught. Nit (
Here, mirth and tears and hopes and fears i if ?
Have lads and maidens brought. Kt {!
Here children stray in early May \ i

THE RED ROSE WALK

The first glimpse I had of the most remark-
able red hardy hybrid-tea rose that grows, re-
markable in color, remarkable in form, remark-
able in ower, remarkable in foliage, remarkable
in fragrance, remarkable in its lavishness of
bloom, was after crossing a quaint rustic bridge,
lazily stretching itself over a happy little stream
banked with forget-me-nots. I climbed a dear
‘“hillet” a sudden turn in the woodland road, and
there—I was almost upon it; “The Red Rose
Walk” was before me. Its ravishing red roses, its
great coral crimson tipped foliage, proudly and
princely assertive. Glorious “Gruss an Teplitz!”
I greet you!

Dear Red Rose Walk, I love the cunning cir-
cular stone step that beckons me down to your
quaint stone portal just outside your low rustic
gates, with the arch above. I love the two pom-
pous little green sentinels you have placed guard-

Le EMER,
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ing each side of your glad gateway. I donot won- ce
der it is glad, for you rapturously wrap yourself w
about the rustic arch above it, and smilingly look <“%
We Win
down at me—childlike—with your high airs! sf

Tell me Gruss an Teplitz is there one fault ;

I can find with you? Yes, there is one fault, lux-
uriant Gruss an Teplitz. I count only sixty of
your standard bearers. Why only thirty on each
side of the narrow stone pathway that separates
you from your comrades vis-a-vis, and in between
these standards, almost hiding the gray supports
they have tied you to so fast, why only thirty-one
of your little sisters the Misses Bush Gruss an
Teplitz on each side? Why not more of you to
send your delicious fragrance in the hill-wind?
Gruss an Teplitz, I love your bold, your beau-
tiful precision. Who placed you all in such a per-
fect line. Tell me, who so cruelly separated each
of you from the other by “rule of inch?” It seems
unfair to you, but dear Red Rose Walk, I love your

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‘ nots, Lobelias, a few seeds of the blue White-eyed
Verbena, blue Hare Bells, Torenia, Golden Portu-
laca, and blue fowered Periwinkle. They thrive
so well, and grow out of these narrow spaces ador-

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precision; I love its exactness. It makes you oh
seem all the more matchless, as you lead me to }
the Rose clad arbor just beyond you. i
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Again Gruss an Teplitz, I salute you! rh
af

THE BLUE GARDEN de

How few blue flowers are grown, how many i
blue flowers there are! If you have the space, a
please havea blue garden. It may even be a very Fe
small blue garden, but do have a blue garden. I a
will tell you all about the blue garden I know of. As
A rough stone wall is its background and on each a
side are huge irregular boulders, full of snug and é
deep little crevices and cracks packed with loam, 3
mn HFS 75
well rammed and pressed down, as deep as it will | RY

go, and in these places are planted Forget-me- ‘

) "|

’. 1S lattice forming the lattice arch which extends

above and over the seat, and at each of these sides
are planted closely (in very rich soil) the climb-

ing, pale, creamy-toned Kaiserine Augusta Vic-

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2 ably. Down below, is the blue garden, some a
* seven feet below at least. It is not quite level
ground, which gives it an added charm. A very ah
narrow path is made through the center of the ah
bed and treading stones are laid in sod and fitted rR

in. This path does not go all the way to the stone- $s

wall at the back but about eight feet from it, and if

leads to a very simple white garden seat, on a x
raised field-stone semi-circular platform, about th

five feet deep and six feet wide, just one step oe
above the level of the path. This platform ex- <>
tends to within about two feet of the wall enclos- yes

ing this blue garden. Cp
Delphiniums and blue Aconitums are banked OM

across the entire bed in front of the wall and even a

back of the seat. At each side of the seat there “\h

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toria roses, which grow to the top of the arch and ze
by early August the great laterals towering above ed
are heavy with flowers and buds. Tucked in at
the left side among the shoots of the Kaiserine 3
Roses are two Clematis vines, Integrifolia Duran- er
di—their deep blue flowers lovely all through the ts
Summer and Fall, and in front of the climbing Y
roses extending into the border are the bush Kais- a
erine Augusta roses, which lend a double value to at
the blue of this blue garden. There is a path at i
each side, the same as the central path,andasac-
centuations, four Chinese (Sinensis) Wistaria ee
standards are placed, pale blue, not Javender or ae
purple, but areal orchid blue. At the back wall all A
the tall growing blue Delphiniums and blue Aco- hi
nitums are planted (the entire range of blue \VRS

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shades). Then Anchusas Italica, Opal and Drop- 7:
more; the three varieties, then blue Veronica and
in between small groups of German Iris, Mme.
Chereau, Attraction and Fairy; then groups of

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A deep edge of dwarf blue Ageratum “Little Biue

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> the steel blue Platycodons and now groups of pale 5
f blue, blue and gold Japanese Iris and the two blue a3
shades of Lupines, Salpeglossis of deep indigo oe
and soft old blue and gold. Campanulas, the fs
giant Pyramidalis, Hare Bells and blue Salvia af
Azurea are massed. Nests of Gladiolus, Blue Jay os,
and Canary Bird here and there, but with ground os
space left for cultivating and feeding between Zab
every group and nest. Canterbury Bells in all ate
the shades but purple and dwarf Delphinium too, ie
with blue flax and Love-in-a-mist—“Miss Jekyll,” a
the ever-blooming Lobelias “Semperflorens” and jis
“Eliza Fourobert,” Torenia, blue cream and soft a
gold, Forget-me-nots of all varieties and shades a
of blue, and blue Verbena with Pheasant’s Eye. AY,
NaH

\Wk/ Star” and a band of pansies and Violas Cornuta,

all the shades of blue and gold, with groups of
delicate blue and gold, cream and gold Spanish
Iris, also French and Irish Anemones.

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Green rattan half circles are put in the
ground atthe sides of extreme paths (not the

center one) but those at the right and left of the as
center path, and on these old blue Clematis 3,
“Romona” are trained, and form a low blue floral As
hedge on those sides. The Clematis vines accom- ps
modate themselves to this training, and the e
sprays grow up and out in a fascinating way. se
Six groups of blue Lilies-of-the-Nile were planted 3
in sunken pots and this completed the “Blue Gar- a
den.” All easily obtainable, simple, quite usual 9.
flowers and bulbs. Not one difficult thing, or one
needing any different treatment than the other. Se
Feeding with soot and pulverized sheep oh
manure twice only during four months and soak- ob
ing the bed with a very soft, gentle spray in dry \i/
y - weather, kept this Blue Garden filled with flowers / Nh;
A ail Summer long. When those of short season i

passed, the others followed and filled in the spaces
of departed flowers.

A quaint, very old farmer came to see this
Blue Garden. He gazed and gazed for a long
time, then turning to me remarked: “Well,
ma’am, you have brought down to earth a bit of
the sky.”

Study the harmony of biues, use less white
and more blue in the garden; all the shades of
blue when assembling many colors together.
White and gold are harmoniously charming, but
blue harmonizes where white would be cold and
unfriendly in an assemblage of many hues. There
may be great masses of color in a garden, and if
these colors are harmonious, and the different
gardens or beds are well considered, and are
in harmony with the general surroundings, truly
a part of them, the effect will be one of simplicity,
\ while the aim was not really for simplicity. In
great gardens, that suggestion of reposeful sim-
plicity is not as difficult to obtain as it is in the
smaller gardens, but careful blending, consider-

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ing the harmony of arrangement—the proper ie

accentuations, carefully planned vistas, graceful iF
paths, natural objective points—a unity—all of
these well thought out will give us a simplicity in
our gardens, that precious reposefulness, we all
know is so desirable.

Someone remarked in speaking of the gar-
dens created by Lady Warwick that “they were ©),
gardens of detail.” Detail? Will you not be &

more comprehensive you ask? It is the “detail” ox
in all Lady Warwick’s gardens that has made de

them of world-wide interest. In The Friendship loss
Garden, The Shakespeare Garden, The Wilder- ze
ness Garden, The Secret Garden and The Gardens ae
of Warwick Castle, that even in the smallest . AY.
group of the smallest plants, one recognizes in- |
L/* stantly the same careful thought in selection and ‘4
placing as in the bold groups or great massings.
The fountains, garden seats, rest houses,
bowers, gates, balustrades, statues, columns,

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urns, bowls, jars, and even plant tubs, medalions, or
bas-reliefs, walls, copings, colonades, paths and
edgings—everything is harmonious to its en-
vironment. ‘I have been here always, my exist-
ence began and shall end here,” each detail seems
to say, and we amateur gardeners wonder why.
I will tell you. Those famous gardens were never
realized without mistakes in their making, but
those mistakes were not allowed to remain; the
instant they were recognized they were removed.
Those gardens were evolved from a woman’s
ideals and an individuality of thought and effort
achieved by no other woman in England, and I
might go further and say with truth, by no other
woman in the world.

We must study garden details, we must be-
gin by being severely critical of every little thing,
the trifles that are usually overlooked, gradually
the little things, the trifles, and the big things,
too, will find their harmonious home that they

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also may seem to say, “I have been here always.”

We must strive for the best, for the most
beautiful of everything, whether it be an old
statue, a weathered stone column, an urn, or
shrub, rose or tree, plant, bulb, root or seed, let
us reflect: is it worthy of my garden? Now and
then we see gardens without detail, they are just
places where “mixed” flowers are growing, noth-
ing to lift up; no individuality, no cunning, no
cleverly devised effects and, alas, no spirit or
character to wordlessly acclaim: “I am a dream
garden, brought into being by a dreamer.”

Why should our gardens and its environs be
anything but picturesquely charming and har-
monious; have we not everything to make them
so?

“¢ | O you know the honey locust tree? Have you ever
‘ys| seen a small plantation, or a colony, or group of
them, with their palest of pink blooms so like minia-
3 | ture lanterns, swaying with the softest breeze? Do
Lt ——— you recall their foliage so unusual, so like the tropi-

cal Acacia, and have you been enchanted with the
perfume of their floral lanterns? I hope so, it is something never to
be forgotten. Nor does one readily forget the glow and brilliancy
of the American Mountain Ash or the commanding symmetry of
the Tulip Tree. There is a noteworthy specimen of Tulip Tree
growing at “Deepdale,” Long Island, which dominates the whole
countryside there; and at “Deepdale” there are also splendid ex-
amples of the Maidenhair Tree (Gingko) resembling nothing so
much as a Maidenhair Fern grown tall and wide and imposing.
Of course we all know the Scarlet Maple Tree (Smiling Tree)
but do we appreciate its possibilities? Do we realize its early
Spring beauty as well as its Summer charm and its Autumn glory?
A simple tree giving so abundantly of richness, a wealth of color
and glowingness. We hear so much of Schwedler’s Norway Maple,

and so we should, purple, red and purple green, but it is not more
beautiful than the Scarlet Maple, which when clouded with its
dazzling blossoms in the Spring seems more a gigantic shrub than
anything I know. :

We are so fortunate, those of us who are “treeing” our land
because there is such remarkable material, trees that weep, trees
that smile, trees that give grateful shade, trees that give color to
drear or somber places, trees that are tenderly graceful, trees that
hide what we would not see, trees that are like friends, and trees
that grow so fast, we wonder, then we sigh that we had not
planted them heretofore and more lavishly.

All the trees I have mentioned are fast growing. All those
I shall speak of are also fast growing, producing for us mature
effects in a few years. If carefully planted in the Spring and given
a mulch the first Summer, they will amaze you. The “Moonbeam
Family” I call my weeping, silver, cut-leaved birches, because the
moonbeams played upon them in such a curious way lighting up
the silvery bark and the countless pure white Foxgloves and Hya-
cinthus Candicans massed all about, with Snow-in-Summer, clumps
of Iberis and thousands of daffodils. On the roadside, with a
stately, if somewhat somber forest of pines in the background
were white sentinels “sweetly spectral”; “strangely shadowy.”
There they stood on guard these European white Birches; some
were over forty feet tall and with eight and nine branches spring-
ing from one root. Quite wonderful they were! Another worthy
member of the Betula Birch family is Pyramidalis, growing as
straight and slim as a Lombardy Poplar. Speaking of Poplars, why
is Tremuloides Pendula the rarest, the most beautiful of all the
poplars, so infrequently seen with its fluttering leaves and mar-
velous grace? One might ask why the fern-leaved Linden is not
more generally planted, lacey, colorful and easily grown.

Perhaps there is a lack of knowledge concerning many trees
that may be safely and successfully planted when fourteen feet tall
and more. But Silver Birches, for example, of ten or twelve feet
seem to thrive better than those planted when fifteen and sixteen

feet tall. The Nyssa Sylvatica, while it grows to sixty feet should
be no more than five or six feet high and then pruned to three or
four feet. These trees when planted in a damp place or on the
stream side, really one may almost see them grow. All trees should
be planted with the same careful preparation described in the Sep-
tember Garden Journal for evergreens. They may be obtained
from almost any nursery. Do not plant too late in the Spring. If
they are coming into leaf when placed in the ground they will
experience a struggle to survive and often do not survive. When
deciduous trees are still in a dormant state, then they should be
planted. Their development will come naturally; the swelling bud,
and leaf, and blossom.

ELIZABETH DENNISON
WONDER if you are acquainted with Elizabeth, or

sj if she is a friend of yours? But I know she will be
ss; when you know her. I met her first in a friend’s
oi garden while we were discussing her brother, Cente-
y, fleur, a most excellent heliotrope, until Elizabeth
, made her debut at the Panama Exposition and was
awarded the medal of honor over every known va-
riety; up to that time Centefleur was considered su-
preme. Now to the facts. The flowerheads of both
are superb. The only difference that I found was
that Elizabeth’s foliage was much finer and more
delicate and the flower stems more slender and the
plant more dwarf than Centefleur. Both are identi-
cal in color, and both varieties may be planted together, using
Elizabeth as a border and Centefleur as a background planting.
All through the Herbaceous Garden plant heliotrope with Calen-
dula, Lemon Queen and all the Salpiglossis, and you will have
an unfailing supply of flowers for cutting, that is, if you keep
cutting them.
If after cutting heliotrope you keep it in a dark room for two
or three hours in water, you will find it will keep for several days.

HELIOTROPE AND ROSES

Will you agree with me that everyone loves heliotrope? Many
flower lovers consider it the most charming of all the annuals.
because of its color and perfume and because it blooms from June
to frost. Certain shades are invaluable in our gardens. The light
shades I personally do not care for; the rich velvety purples are
so much more beautiful, and it is only in these deep tones that the
large flower heads are produced. The more heliotrope is cut, the
more one has to cut; and I wish I could impress upon all amateur
gardeners the importance of cutting their flowers.

I recall a very sweet garden picture. The great-grandfather
in a certain household, frail and very old, was wheeled out in his
chair every morning to the edge of the terrace, where he could see
a great bed of deep purple heliotrope. There were two varieties,
the tall Centefleur and the dwarf Madame Bruant, edged with a
two-foot border of that rare little rose, Mme. Cecile Brunner some-
times called Mignon and Sweetheart, Mme. Cecile Brunner is such
a good rose, it is always in bloom.

These small rose bushes were placed twelve inches apart, and
among the flower trusses of the heliotrope, the clustered pink
sprays of these miniature, fairy-like roses peeped out.

The tall Centefleur and the dwarf Madame Bruant have im-
mense flowers of an indescribable purple. Working sheep fer-
tilizer and a little Scotch soot into the soil wherever heliotrope
is planted will give you the greatest abundance of deep toned and
beautiful heliotrope.

To keep the Cecile Brunner rose free from its one enemy,
blackspot, give it the usual routine spraying that the other roses
receive and it will be free from that disfigurement all Summer.

There are several dwarf varieties of heliotrope quite as de-
sirable as the Madame Bruant; fortunately one is not limited to
just one variety of hardly any garden flower.

LATHYRUS AND ROSE RAILS

I wish everyone recognized the loveliness of Lathyrus, some-
times called Miniature Wistaria, because the foliage and flowers
are exactly like Wistaria, only in miniature. Now that the low
lattice rails are a feature in so many beautiful gardens, dainty
Lathyrus is the ideal vine for covering these dainty rails. To se-
cure a delicately beautiful effect, plant one strong root of Lathyrus,
every twenty inches, the entire length of the rail. When the vine
grows to fifteen inches it is long enough to train. Weave the vines
as they grow, in and out, over and under the rail. The panicles
of bloom will droop while the silvery green sprays of leaves are
lifted up by their strong, slender stems. This is one of the ex-
quisite features of Lathyrus. These rails for edging narrow paths
are an innovation. The Cecile Brunner rose, the climbing variety
should be planted twenty inches apart and its long, flexible canes
woven in and out of the rail, just as the Lathyrus vine is trained.
The paths in our pink rose gardens will be the rarest sight imagin-
able, because the Cecile Brunner climbing rose blooms in sprays
on long, strong stems, held high above the canes from which the
flowering stems grow. The rails, planted as I have described,
are unusually charming. The Lathyrus is obtainable in two
shades of pink and several varieties of white—White Pearl, I
think, is the loveliest. There is never an unattractive season for
either Cecile Brunner or the Lathyrus White Pearl.

FRENCH AND IRISH ANEMONES

The commercial florists, I am told, can-
not supply the demand for the French and

‘WW = Irish Anemones as a “cut flower,” so imme- J
diate and emphatic has been their success, which does not surprise
me in the least. There is a charm about these flowers that is dis-
tinctive. There is something so appealing, an invitation as it were,
for close scrutiny of their enchanting hues, of their miniature Ori-
ental Poppy form, and best of all, the fact that everyone may grow

them from seed, obviating the worry of “which is top or which is
bottom” that so tantalized a certain gardener I know of that she
threw them away, all these perplexing little bulbs. Seed of the
French and Irish (St. Brigid) Anemones, of Cornonaria, de Caen,
etc., may be sown in early Spring just as we sow other hot frame or
greenhouse seed and we will have these fascinating flowers abloom
in June to border our rose-beds, to cheer the rock garden, to en-
hance the early perennial garden, to enliven dull bare places, to tuck
in here and there and everywhere. We cannot have too many
Anemones. Why, they bring to our gardens flowers as beautiful
and far more interesting and uncommon than any of the Spring
blooms grown from bulbs that we plant regularly, by the thousands
and thousands.

FRENCH HYDRANGEA

There is probably no more decorative plant (I really should
say shrub) than the French Hydrangea. It is particularly smart
and important as an accentuation when grown in tubs, or in stone
or pottery jars.

There is nothing easier to grow, as cuttings will very readily
take root. As soon as the small green flower heads show, the
plants should be fed, by spreading an inch or so of pulverized sheep
fertilizer over the surface, and watering through it. This not only
serves as a food, but also as a mulch. They require no other care
except keeping the faded blooms cut. Of course they are tender;
care must be taken to winter them, in a frost-proof place—just
as one cares for tender bulbs.

The following are the loveliest of the French Hydrangeas :—
Mme. E. Chautard which produces both blue and rose flowers
and Mont Rose which has huge clear flesh pink blooms, while
Mousselines’ flowers are mauve and rose flushed together, and
Avalanche has great white blooms, General De Vibrave is a pure
rose color with enormous individual florets, Gloire De Boissy is a
deep brilliant and very clear pink. These rarely, beautiful plants

are of such delicate tones as mauve clouded with rose, or blue
flushed with the pale pink, or mauve suggesting a soft blue, gray,
etc., etc. They bloom alJ Summer through to early Fall.

VIOLA CORNUTA

How I wish I could make the culture of the Viola Cornuta as
great a hobby with the Amateur Gardener in this county as it is
in England. These lovely flowers are sometimes called tufted
pansies. They are similar to the pansy in formation and coloring,
but they are smaller and faithfully ever blooming.

There is a variety of Viola Cornuta, a rare Hybrid called
Atropurpurea. It is almost identical in color and form with the
blossom of the single Russian and English Violet and has a per-
fume which is identical. I think there is not a flower that blooms
that excels it in color or profusion of bloom. As an edging plant
it is perfection indeed. Every variety of Viola Cornuta is a cloud
of bloom all Summer. They shower and lean gracefully, although
not of prostrate habit. The whole range of color is mauve, mauve
and yellow, clear golden yellow, and pure white with a blue and
gold spot, a wedgewood blue, pale lavender blue and a deep Rus-
sian purple in which there is a suggestion also of deep blue.

Where conditions are such that there must be a straight edge
to the Herbaceous Garden, an undulating effect may be secured
by waved lines of Viola planted in the English way; namely, the
ribbon border, using the self-color of deep purple blue for the first
row, golden and blue for the second row and creamy yellow for the
third row, while all the other shades could fill in the bare places.
Planting them six inches apart each way, in a short time they will
fill in “to touching faces.”

While I have read and heard so unceasingly that Violas should
be grown in semi-shade, I have found Viola Cornuta to succeed far
better in full sunshine, particularly the hybrid Atropurpurea and
Pansies also became scraggy and ragged when grown in full shade
which, is nearly always advised, and is what I cannot understand,

but now that we Amateur Gardeners are following the instincts
of our own intelligence, our own individual experiences, it doesn’t
matter what is advised, we follow our own experience-made rules
and instruct our gardeners accordingly.

OES ED : CR ae Matis ioe
Sey SP AP ee

UR appreciation, our eagerness for all the newer and newest

garden treasures must be a spur to new efforts, an incentive

z to the hybridizers, for they are producing transcendently
lovely hybrids of countless treasures. Just when we have accepted
with thankful hearts sweet little Chinensis a dwarf ever-blooming
border Delphinium in both a sky blue and pearly white, they give
us another and even more desirable dwarf Delphinium. This
newest type is so like a Cineraria, even to the point of being with-
out spurs and almost the fac-simile of that rare blue Cineraria we
have coveted for an out-of-doors blue. The name of this new
Delphinium is Cineraria Caeruleum. It is a continuous bloomer
providing the faded flower sprays are kept cut, and it is fed, as
we do the other members of the Delphinium family, but our
Delphinium novelties do not end with Cineraria. No indeed. There
are a dozen or more to delight you; I am going to describe only
two or three now. Progression Delphinium is unique, being of a
golden white, a shade rather difficult to describe; perhaps if I said
a golden luster pervaded its central petals you would understand
how unusual Progression is. Lorenzo de Medici, is novel too, be-
cause it is pink suffused with pale gray blue extremely interesting,
and its florets are double. Porcelain Sceptre is another wonderful
novelty, double as is Lorenzo de Medici and just the blue of
Wedgewood. These varieties have been propagated here, they are
hardy and available.

When the hybridizer produces a plant that has none of the
faults of its parents, particularly if we have despaired over these
faults, how pleased we should be with the new Platycodon Mariesi
Nana which never under any circumstances becomes floppy or
droopy, a grave defect in the Platycodon family, both tall and
dwarf. They are greatly beloved, although requiring careful stak-
ing just at a certain stage of their growth, when first starting into
flower. With this new Platycodon Mariesi Nana, no staking is
necessary at any time. It is compact, graceful, bushy and more
dwarf than Mariesi; besides it also comes in two shades, that pure
deep blue and thick fine white of the Mariesi. As an edging plant
they might be rivals of the Carpathian Hare-bells except that the
foliage and grace of the latter are not excelled by any plant, old
or new. They always remind me of a doll’s crinoline skirt, they
are so lacey, so miniature.

The need of beautiful low-growing plants is being met far
beyond the expectations of the most sanguine amateur gardener,
and the fact that so many of these new hybrids are blue must
indeed be gratifying to all amateurs. Myosotidiflora is a hardy,
charming little Anchusa less than a foot tall and with flowers as
blue and not unlike the forget-me-not Palustris. It will thrive in
full sun or partial shade and is really hardy and a more lasting
perennial than the taller Anchusas. The Japanese herbaceous
Anemones are becoming almost as keenly welcome in our gardens
as the plants heretofore better known, and now we have a Chinese
specie of lower growth than the Japanese, being but a foot high and
of a delicate mauve tone. It blooms all through August and Sep-
tember, its name is Hupehensis. I saw it growing in front of
Madame Paul Dutrie phlox, both a-flower and both so exquisite.
Nearby were the nodding, lavender bonnets of Scabiosa Caucasia
and Japonica, with the very dwarf, violet mauve Phlox Nana
Caerulea and Argon, which is also very dwarf and a fine silvery
pink, pale pink Speciosum Lilies and small masses of that extraor-
dinary hybrid Viola (Atropurpurea) a Russian violet purple filling
a Shallow wall bed. The harmony of the mauve, lavender, silvery

pink and the royal purple of the Violas was subtly obvious, but
only to those with a fine sense for color and the fitness of things.
Many passed this planting with but a casual glance, caught I dare
say, by the tali pink lilies. The Madame Paul Dutrie phlox should
not be considered as just phlox; please observe when next you see
it, how different Madame Paul Dutrie is from all other phlox; you
will then understand what I mean.

Speaking of Phlox you will be glad to know there are ever so
many new dwarf varieties to hide the unlovely base of the taller
ones, and these low-growing ones produce just as splendidly large
flower trusses as the very tallest, and what is more, they serve, as
I said before to hide the ten or twelve inches that is always unat-
tractive in the tall growing kinds. Aurore vivid rose, Argon, deli-
cate pink, Delarey, white flushed with rose, Hajo Eilers, white and
mauve, Helena Vacaresco, white with golden eye (rare), Rossig-
nol, mauve and gray and rose (interesting), Nana Caerulea of
which I have told you and Tapis Blanc growing but eight inches
high, a pure white in color and producing huge flower panicles.
These dwarf phlox are valuable for planting directly next the min-
iature box edging of the herbaceous garden or the phlox bed.
Where one devotes a whole bed to phlox, it may be kept abloom
until frost by pinching away the tips of the plants here and there
before the flower buds have formed. There are several new tali
beauties. Lofna, mauve pink, Gustavo Nadaud, not unlike
Madame Paul Dutrie, Loki salmon-rose, Le Printemps; deep rose
with pearl center, Aubrey Alder, flame and gold (most unusual),
Arthur Ranc, brilliant salmon pink (striking). The variety
Aubrey Alder was grown with several varieties of Tritoma (Torch
Lily) and I regret to say sometimes called Red Hot Poker (which
one must admit they resemble, therefore a red hot poker must be
beautiful, only I don’t believe we ever recognized its beauty, being
only a poker) with a background of the bronzy red Ricinus (Zanzi-
bariensis), other vivid colored phlox were there in masses. Aurora
Boreale, scarlet-salmon, Baron Van Dedan, a strikingly vivid red,
Fernand Cortez, reddish copper, Seibold, orange-red, with the

bronze foliage and scarlet owers of William Saunders Canna and
the dwarf, small leaved Caladiums in red and copper bronze and
green. In all the foreground spaces Mandarin Eschscholtzia
(orange red) grew, adding with its fine foliage and vividly colored
flowers the finish to this bold and colorful planting which was
strangely harmonious, for all its vividness.

It is a far cry from all this copper red splendor to the Gerbera
hybrids (Transvaal Daisy) which are so marvelously lovely, so
graceful and so easily grown from seed. The colors are exquisitely
delicate, yet they cover a wide range of tints, such as buff, pale
salmon rose, salmon, a pure rose, cerise, violet, ruby, mauve of the
sunset hue, flesh pink and pearl white. The round flower on its
long stem sways and blows most charmingly. Few flowers if any
excel Gerbera for cutting and lasting qualities. The Jameson Gi-
gantes Gerbera variety is the truest, clearest scarlet. The commer-
cial growers have been sending to the retail florist this kind during
the past two Winters. I hope you will ask to see them if you do not
know Gerbera. There is one bit of cultural information I wish to
give you concerning the planting of Gerbera seed. Take each
seed with a tweezer and press it into the soil of the seed flat with
the pointed end projecting just above the surface, allow an inch
between each seed. This manner of sowing Gerbera seed is quite
worth the trouble. Should a seed not germinate, remove and insert
another.

There is a new Cimicifuga, Simplex, it is perfect as a cut
flower with the graceful tassels of the new Buddleia Veitchia; this
latest Buddleia is a unique contribution to the family with whom
we are now all such good friends.

I have seen some remarkable plants of the new rose Ophelia
Supreme; while I refuse to admit that it is an improvement over
Ophelia I found more uniformity of color and a deeper gold at
the base of the petals. Perhaps you have noticed that in a vase
holding a dozen or more Ophelia roses, hardly two of
them will be identical in color. I do not know of a
rose grown to such perfection under glass that may be grown

just as perfectly out of doors, furthermore, it grows with a lavish-
ness in the open equalled only by the William R. Smith rose and
Gruss an Aachen. How I wish that in every garden there were at
least a dozen good plants of the Gruss an Aachen. When I first saw
this rose in the bud, while I admired the coppery gold and peach of
its coloring, I was not prepared for the wonderful blooms that fol-
lowed a rather insignificant bud. I did not believe that such a
flower, with its immense number of petals could have a bud so
small. It is most uncommon. The terminal clusters are on long
stems, and with more petals than any hybrid-tea rose I know, the
fully expanded flowers look just like Camelias. It is never out of
bloom if well fed, and by well fed I mean a half trowel of my rose
food (the formula I have already given) should be used every two
weeks, while there are yet buds to mature.

Evelyn is a “sport” of Ophelia, it impressed me as a pure pink
rose of much substance and greater petalage than Ophelia,
although not in any way superior to Ophelia in beauty.

The Mrs. Belmont Tiffany rose is supposed to rival Sunburst.
I saw it last Spring and again this Winter, but it is lacking in the
purity and clearness of tone that has made Sunburst so famous.

The Los Angeles rose is so strikingly similar in every detail
to the Lyon and to Willowmere that I cannot find enough differ-
ence to place the Los Angeles as a complete novelty. Willowmere,
when well grown is quite the equal of Los Angeles and I know sev-
eral amateur rose growers who insist it is superior. Louise Walter
or Baby Tausendschoen is a precious border rose novelty. The
individual flowers are more of the globe form than Tausendschoen,
besides the color is a rare pink of fewer shades than Tausend-
schoen. The Louise Walter is a dwarf of great beauty as to color,
form and ever-blooming habit. Another novelty, newer even than
the Louise Walter is Gerthna Kluis. Gerthna Kluis is also a fine
pink in color, very dwarf, the blossoms are more compact, very
round and most lovely. It is also a continuous bloomer. I con-
sider it an ideal pink edging rose, as valuable in that class as the
Marie Pavie is as a white edging rose.

G. Nabounand is a peach gold and buffy pink rose that is not a
novelty, but I am going to speak of it as there are many amateur
gardeners who do not grow it because they are unaware of its real
value as a rose.

When I visited the Hartford Test Rose Gardens in late Octo-
ber, I counted hundreds in bloom, many buds were maturing, the
foliage was clean and free from all afflictions. G. Nabounand is as
perfect a dwarf bush rose as I have ever seen. I do not con-
sider it a Polyantha rose, but would place it in the
Mme. Ravary and Gruss an Aachen class. A red rose on great,
firm, long stems, showing dozens of buds and blooms was Robin
Hood, this rose was also as free from mildew and spot, etc., as was
G. Nabounand. Amateur Gardeners realize the advantage of
growing the roses that bloom early and late, and strange as it may
seem, I have found that one that blooms freely through Septem-
ber and October is less susceptible to disease or altogether immune,
or they would not have the vitality to bloom on and on to a killing
frost. Doesn’t this seem a reasonable conclusion? I saw some
superb Ophelia tree roses that were budded on saplings, not on
rose stock at all. This was an experiment tried out by an ambitious
under-gardener and was completely successful.

A new rambler, Paul’s Scarlet, does not fade. It is semi-
double, absolutely hardy, and when grown with the Climbing
Gruss an Teplitz, there will be blooms all Summer long. Climbing
Gruss an Teplitz is not a novelty, but it is unique as a climbing
rose, in that if it is well fed it is never out of bloom until the very
end of flower time. I wonder if you have seen Climbing Sunburst?
It is glorious and loves a lattice against a sunny wall, and if you
mass at its feet Azure Fairy do you realize the perfect harmony?
Azure Fairy is a dwarf Delphinium but ten inches high and is
really exquisite, so blue and so sweet.

There is a pure yellow Foxglove, not buff, but just the clearest
yellow. With Cytisus Golden Chain (Hardy Laburnum) and
Miniature Golden Fleece—the new Cactus Dahlia form sunflower
—growing but three feet tall, this would be a charming yellow

flower group, the Cytisus as a background, the new yellow Fox-
glove with Miniature Golden Fleece bordered with the South
African Daisy, Dimorphotheca Aurantica.

There are so many rare and many new varieties of Philadel-
phus (Mock Orange), Lemoine hybrids, that I will describe but a
few of the most interesting ones. In Albatre, the famous variety
Virginale has a rival, not formidable, but still a rival, because Al-
batre produces more, if not lovelier flowers. There is Banniere
whose blossoms are so large and white, besides having several
rows of petals. Etoile Rose is a decided novelty, having large
white blooms with pink center. Rosace has three-inch creamy
flowers of Anemone form. Voir Lactee’s numerous blooms are
filled with golden stamens, it is named Silver Moon (Mock
Orange) by several growers.

Norma, the Giantess, is a ten-foot beauty, whose large single
flowers are dazzling. Conquette’s blossoms resemble the Duc von
Thol Tulips. This variety is exceptionally graceful, the branches
arch charmingly, bending and swaying under the weight of the
tulip form flowers. Pururea Maculta is of arching showering
habit also, with all of its white flower petals marked with a vivid
pink spot. Growing these unusual Philadelphus with the Hybrid
Lilacs one sees them at their loveliest. I understand that Lemoine
considers his novelty lilac, Mont Blanc, the superior of all the white
hybrids. Perhaps it is, but I consider Mme. Abel Chatney almost
perfect. There is a remarkably pretty dwarf white suffused with
a tender pink that is most adaptable for growing in large pots,
then at flowering time placed pot and all in the terrace jars of stone
for early flowers; later they may be replaced with the blue or pink
French Hydrangeas.

There are several new lilacs of such coloring one would never
expect to find even in the hybrids—for example, Belle de Nancy
has blossoms the color of a Caroline Testout rose or very near it,
a bright clear pink. Maurice de Vilmorin’s blooms are sky-blue,
Charles Joly has flowers of a real crimson, President Fallieres has
pink buds opening to mauve. They are all truly wonderful, these
hybrids. So are Maxime Cornu’s pale pink flowers. I havea friend

54.

who ordered last Autumn every new lilac she could secure. Those
that could only be supplied in small plants are to be grown in pots
to place in jars or bowls in the house, on the terrace and wherever
a charming note is desired. This is an excellent plan for growing
smallish shrubs, etc., in pots; then when they are older and larger,
they may be planted in permanent positions.

Two new Deutzias could be grown this way. The most
feathery, graceful one you have ever seen is Lemoine’s Fleur de
Pommier, all rose clouded flowers, while Boule de Neige, also
Lemoine’s, is as round as a globe and an ideal form for gracing the
balustrade urns and jars. After flowering Blue Lilies-of-the-Nile
could replace them. Lemoine’s Boule Rose Deutzia we know, and is
there anything more enchanting when in full blossom? It appears
more a prim bouquet than a little shrub. Do you realize that even
Crenata, which we believed could have no peer, is rivaled by a new
Crenata-Deutzia? It is Crenata Magnifica and really magnificent!
Grow a number of Aralia Mandschusica. This variety is much
taller growing than Spinosa; Mandschusica will reach fourteen to
eighteen feet, plant them with the Deutzias. Their canopies of
leaves will tower over Deutzia’s, arrestingly, royally, dwarf
grasses, white flowered Periwinkle and Mme. Chereau Iris in abun-
dance would make this planting a permanent picture.

Now that we have a new and brilliant yellow rose that blooms
when the Spireas, White Deutzias and many other white flowered
shrubs are loveliest, this golden rose is Hugonis; it is hardy, vigor-
ous, vividly colorful and takes its place among the novelties, as
the very earliest rose to ower. Grown in the foreground with
white blossomed shrubs, in full sun and fed independently, Hugonis
the “shrub rose” will prove a valuable “new comer” in our gardens.

Golden Emblem is a new yellow hybrid tea-rose. The intro-
ducer of this novelty claims that Golden Emblem is really a hardy
Marechal Neil, excelling it in color, substance and foliage. Yellow
roses are so loved that Golden Emblem will not remain a stranger
for long, I am certain.

We should be so grateful to the patient hybridizers for all the
treasures they have given us, and continue to give us!

{<> || DOUBT very much if in the absence of nursery and seed
‘be catalogues we Amateur Gardeners could find the time of
www waiting possible throughout the long Winter.

Blessed indeed is the woman who owns a greenhouse, whether
it is one of the impressive glass-domed-roof kind, the acre under
glass, the modest but practical kind, or the little “bump-your-head-
if-you-don’t-stoop” sort. At all events the Amateur is blessed, and
doubly so, if she is near enough to enjoy the absorbing delights of
growing from seed or assisting in the work of growing her own
plants and seeing with her own eyes the mystery of germination.
Oh, how I have watched and waited for the tiny glimmer of pale
green to show on the surface of my seed flats! Then the gradual
poking through of their little heads bearing the empty seed shells
like tiny viziers, next the strengthening of the proud little stalk
with its proud little pair of leaves and on and on, until—with a
spoon thrust in deeply and an inch all around from the center, I
lift out each dear little plant and give it an independent home in a
three-inch paper pot. It is then, when I behold my great array, my
verdant little army of transplanted seedlings that my heart grieves
for the gardener that must order by the dozen, or twenty-five “at

the hundred rate” or a hundred of a mixture. Just ponder for a
moment on what your sensation must be when you realize that all
those shimmering white Foxglove rockets out there under the sil-
very rays of the moon were grown by you, really you, and all those
hundreds of swaying Columbine beauties have been raised from the
shiny black seed you yourself have gathered from your initial
stock. Perhaps a mixed dozen of long-spurred hybrids which had
produced half a thousand fertile seed. I have known a constitu-
tionally delicate woman stand for hours at a time, cheeks and lips
red, her eyes shining with delight in the work of transplanting and
pressing and petting those wobbly baby green things into gay
little pots, using sweet care not to strangle with too hard a pres-
sure their tender little necks.

Perhaps you will think I exaggerate greatly when I insist that
ten thousand seedlings are but little more work or play, as you
will—than a mere hundred or two. Unless you have had the joyous
experience you simply cannot know how easily we may grow great
quantities of annuals and certain biennials, and even perennials
if we start early enough, because there are perennials that will
bloom the first Summer if seed are sown in the early Spring.

Just because seeds are not costly we should not waste them, or
permit them to be wasted by sowing them too thickly. Always
sow seed thinly. I have seen seeds sown in the open garden that
I feel certain were sown with a spade, and which resulted in such a
mass of plants that no sunshine could possibly penetrate to them.
And they were so dense that thinning was quite impossible, with
the result that the entire bed had to be uprooted. Of course we
should sow more seed than the actual number of plants we desire,
because (unless by a miracle) some of the seeds will not germinate.
I know that many rules have been given for the sowing of seed,
one that I recall is that “three times the diameter of a seed is the
proper depth to plant or sow seed,” etc., etc. However, I have
never tried sowing seed by any fixed rule, so I cannot say that it
is not a good rule to follow. Some of the small seed, when I sow
them in flats, I pick up with tweezers and place them the distance

apart I feel they are entitled to. When sowing very tiny seed in
beds or borders (such as Portulaca, Poppy, etc.), I thoroughly mix
one teaspoonful of seed in an ordinary quart kitchen flour dredger,
about one-half full of fine, dry, sharp sand (be sure the sand is
really dry) and sow direct from the dredger.

After sowing in flats, stretch a piece of cheese cloth over the
flat and water gently through it, so not to disturb or wash out the
seeds.

When sowing seeds directly in a bed, after they are sown, I
gently shake sifted earth over them, also with a dredger, then
lightly tamp the fine soil down upon them. I enjoy using my
“tamper” which is nothing more than the tool a plasterer uses to
float (I am told that is the proper term) the finishing coat of plas-
ter on a ceiling. It is very light, it is made of wood with a cork
surface, and I believe it can be obtained at any good hardware shop
where mechanics’ tools are sold.

STEEPING SEEDS IN WATER TO HASTEN
GERMINATION

I steep all hard seed in water in which I mix a good pinch of
carbonate of soda (not bi-carbonate) before planting, as I find it
hastens their germination. Let them remain in their softening
bath until they can be slightly depressed by squeezing between the
finger tips, then they are ready to plant, and they will usually ger-
minate at once. Some very hard seeds like Sweet Peas and the
Ricinus I have sometimes had to leave in water for almost two days.

To sow all but the very small seed, I use a piece of shade stick
about twelve inches long. By pressing it against the earth it makes
a miniature trench and all I have to do is to place the seed the
required distance apart in the little trench and replace the earth
my shade stick has hilled up. This makes the pressing in of the
larger seed very easily and quickly done, and means that thousands
may be started with very little effort. When the seed have been
sown in the beds the beds should be watered with a very soft, fine
spray so not to wash the earth away. We must remember not to

ot)

permit our seeded beds or flats to dry out, for if we do, we cannot
expect to have results.

When the little plants have peeped out an inch or so above the
ground and the bed is moist, we may easily pull out any plants that
might overcrowd the bed or flat. Be sure not to do this thinning
out when the soil is dry, as you might disturb the roots of the other
plants, and then again, it requires more effort to thin out under
such conditions.

Save the seed of your finest flowers, allow only these to pro-.
duce seed, save them for future use in labelled and dated envelopes
or small boxes.

Mark these seed flowers with a bit of worsted. The seed of a
half dozen choice blooms will give you hundreds of plants. You
will be your own “seedman” then.

PERENNIALS BLOOMING THE FIRST SUMMER
FROM EARLY SPRING SOWN SEED

™, Y starting seed in early Spring (the early
=| part of March) in the hot frame or green-
' house, the following perennials will bloom
the coming Summer. Be extravagant when
en ordering seeds of blue flowers. One cannot
have too much blue in one’s garden; besides, blue neu-
tralizes colors and in many cases acts as a foil. If you
plant a group of blue flowering Salvia directly next to
red or magenta or orange or pink, all these colors are
enhanced by the contrast with the blue. Really, one
of the most practical as well as one of the sweetest,
loveliest of all perennials is about as simple to grow
as grass seed or weeds or the ugly things. I refer to
the dwarf blue Delphinium Chinensis. From seed
sown in the early Spring of this valuable garden beau-
tifying flower will bloom generously from mid-Summer
to Autumn. The white variety, Chinensis Alba, will
also flower, as well as the ever-blooming Forget-Me-
Not, Palustris Semperflorens, also the English Daisies,
Iceland Poppies, Sweet William, Pansies, Viola Cor-
nuta, Heuchera, Lychnis, Platqcodons, tall and dwarf
Mariesi, Hardy Primulas, Anemones, French and Irish,
Aubrietias, Dianthus.
When the seedlings of these have been “hardened
off” do not make the mistake of planting out too early

where they are to flower. The nights are cold through May for our
baby plants. You will succeed far better by waiting for warm,
frostless nights before “setting out” young frame or green-
house plants. An exception may be made with Pansies, Viola
Cornuta and Palustris, Forget-Me-Nots, although you will have
no more or better flowers than the cautious, patient gardener, who
waits for settled warmth. Young heliotrope plants cannot sur-
vive even a mild frost and there are numberless others that are
just as susceptible. There will be no shock to your seedlings, if
you wait and they will grow on unchecked, presenting more luxu-
riant bloom than plants hurried into the open ground. If you will
order twenty-five nursery plants of the hybrid Viola Atropururea,
hundreds of others may be grown from cuttings taken from these
hardy, ever-blooming plants. There is an extraordinary annual
Poppy. I saw it in just one garden last Summer. Their seed may
now be obtained in minute quantities, but just a pinch of these tiny
seed will produce quite the most bewitching flowers. They are
larger than the hardy Orientals growing on strong stems fully
thirty inches tall; the colors are of every lovely hue and they are
so graceful and silky and unusual. Only sow these Poppies in the
open where they are to flower.

Please grow some white Forget-Me-Nots, and oh, such quan-
tities of Viola Cornuta, blue Pansies and blue and white dwarf
Delphinium Chinensis. Edge your pergola borders with these;
border your rambler roses with clouds of blue, border every bed
with low growing flowers. This is a garden feature now, that will
not be transitory. Rather tardily we have adopted it, you will
agree, when we realize that in English and French gardens border-
ing and edging with flowers is more than a century old.

SPRING SOWN ANNUALS

=~ MATEUR Gardeners, there are many exquisite annuals
which if the seed are sown in the early part of March
iL-o-3}} in three-inch paper pots or utilizing all the clay pots; one
finds in every garden tool house all the small boxes, etc., borders
may be grown for all the late flowering tulips, particularly the
Darwins. Growing these bordering plants in pots facilitates and
simplifies the work because there need be no transplanting or
“thinning out.” I favor three-inch paper pots for this work as
pot, and all (you know) goes right into the ground, where the
paper is soon absorbed. The work is cleanly pleasant, and best of
all it is done so quickly. Just imagine your imperious Darwin
Tulips bordered tenderly with the uncommon pink Forget-Me-
Not, which forms a miniature pyramid with a cloud of pink blos-
soms of indescribable charm that enhances your Darwins until the
very last one has bloomed. These pink Forget-Me-Nots are not
hardy as is the overblooming variety, Palustris Semperforens,
but they provide a sweet border flower, preceding your Viola

Cornuta, Pansies, etc. The pyramid form Forget-Me-Nots come
in a lovely blue shade too, and a white and pearl white. Blue But-
terfly is a dwarf annual Delphinium as beautiful and just as blue
as the hardy Chinensis, and if started in paper pots up to March
Blue Butterfly will be a worthy early border flower.

Dianthus is a biennial, blooming all through the first Summer
from March sown seed. These Dianthus tufts may be used to fill
in bare places wherever there are bare places, they may also pro-
vide a complete border directly back of lower growing border
plants. Salmon Queen, White Empress, Crimson Velvet, indeed
all of these biennial Dianthus are charming; besides they are ever-
blooming, that is if they are not allowed to seed. Dimorphotheca
hybrids should be pot sown so we may have these gay little flowers
abloom by mid-June through to Autumn.

You may even have your California Poppies (Eschscholtzia)
all ready when real Summer warmth arrives, to tuck in countless
places, such as all through the naturalized plantings where they
will self-sow forever after. California Poppies will not bear trans-
planting from flats, but when grown in individual paper pots,
planting pot and all, their tap roots will not be disturbed. Grow
the newest hybrids, the Geisha, Rajah, Mikado, Dainty Queen and
Diana a fluted flesh pink Eschscholtzia.

The Godetias of dwarf form and the very dwarf (10 inches)
Larkspurs are precious annuals for early blooming with “paper
pot” sown seed, in fact all heights of annual Larkspurs thrive and
blossom vigorously grown this way. Lobelias too should be ready
to give us early flowers, both the compact bush and the trailing;
the cobalt blue and the white, also the light blue with tiny white
eye. The annual Lupin which is one of our loveliest fowers, should
be grown only in pots; they are tap root plants and cannot endure
transplanting. There is delicate little Nemesia, dear bushy things
for borders. In Pentstemons quite wonderful are “Gloxinioides”
a strain of Pentstemon worthy of any ‘garden. Sow Scabioso and
Salpiglossis in paper pots and when cutting these unusual flowers
arrange them with Maidenhair ferns all the colors are lovely.

Now that there is a really dwarf form of Schizanthus in the
pyramidalis Tom Thumb, which grows into a smart little bush and
blooms and blooms for ever so long, cut sprays of it to place with
Blue Butterfly or Wedgewood Sweet Peas. Torenia is not seen
in many gardens and yet it is an ideal border and rock garden plant.
Torenia Fournieri both sky-blue and deep blue (both blues in the
one flower) is a finer and richer flower than any blue Lobelia,
although I must admit, it is not so dependable as a plant, but very
worth while growing for its daintiness.

Start all the Verbenas by the end of March, provide for a
great abundance of these unfailing flowers. Plan to grow more
of the charming pink shades than ever before; they are perfect as
floating flowers by removing all of the stem and laying the round
stemless blooms on the surface of the water in broad shallow bowls,
the stem holder is disguised. Cecile Brunner’s fairy rose clusters,
held in place in the stem holder seem to rise from a pink Verbena
surface. Such an arrangement received the first prize over larger
and more important exhibits at a flower show because they were
so truly lovely. Deep purple and royal scarlet Verbenas and
the splendid white, gray blue, flesh, dark blue, deep rose, indeed all
the Verbenas are valuable garden-making flowers. When planted
inside a dwarf box edge they wreath themselves in and out and
over the dark green box and if you cut them regularly late Autumn
will find them still aflower, and they will survive a very sharp frost.

There is a pure white Viola. Id love to see it in every garden;
it is named Odorata Alba; it is irresistable, so is the Princess of
Wales Viola, a fine blue, growing on wavy, long, strong stems. I
just recall someone asking me if the Verbenas were not “common.”
Oh no, they aren’t “common” but they are old-fashioned—“old-
fashioned”—just as there are beloved old people who are adorably
“old-fashioned” and they are adorable, simply because they are
“old-fashioned” might that not be the same with Verbenas, Portu-
laca, Wall Flowers, Pansies, Violets Stocks or Bleeding Hearts
whose pathetically formed flower sprays appealed poignantly to us
when we were little children, to our grandmothers and their grand-
mothers when they too were little children?

I admire the hybrids and implore the culture of the worthy
novelties but we must not scorn the dear old flowers or think of
them as “common.” I know an “old-fashioned” lady who speaks
quite casually of “when I was a young woman of seventy, etc.”
She has always been a gardener and at ninety years of age prunes
and trains all her roses.

NATURE'S MINIATURES

Dwarf Boxwoods

T hey call us dwarfs those gardeners
A name thats not at all far,
For dwarfs are deformed and so ugly
We're small, but the semblance ends there.

A s the miniature 1s to the portrait,
So are we to the big things that grow,
For beauty not size is our watchword
We're small but important you know.

Musertt 4. Agar

i Des, they are “Nature’s Miniatures small but important”—
just how important we amateurs are beginning to under-
; stand. Fifteen years ago a noted English landscape archi-
tect came to the United States as consultant in the making of a
certain well-known garden. The box hedges he designed are still
the same, all dwarf except the accentuations, all quaint, all are
possible somewhere in every garden. Yet, how often do we see
these naive little green possibilities. We will take into considera-

tion the edge of a terrace. We can’t have a balustrade, stone
coping or low wall, so why not a picturesque dwarf box hedge, so
charming in itself that it evolves into a feature and an important
one if an eighteen inch high boxwood pyramid (very pointed) is
planted at the end, followed by five ten inch high, square form box-
wood, then another pyramid identical with the one at the end is
planted with five more ten inch square form box and continuing
pyramid and square form the needed length of the terrace, ending
with a pyramid, of course. Another miniature box hedge is made
with globe form and dwarf pointed form box; another with obelisk
form for accentuations and half globes of box; still another begin-
ning with a column two feet high and a solid twelve inch high and
twelve inch thick hedge sheared at each point touching the ac-
centuating columns to eight inches, columns placed every six feet
and ending naturally with acolumn. Standard boxwood, those on
slender stems about thirty inches high, with very round heads, are
most adaptable, too, in making these miniature hedges, with twelve
inch pointed form box trees in between.

Weathered stone benches, with stone bowls each side and
smart little box trees, obelisk in form, or sharply pointed or very
rounded (globes), with pretty showering plants tumbling over the
edges of the bowls, give atmosphere and finish to a garden. In-
dividual flower beds may have unique little box hedges at their
highest point but twelve inches, at their lowest six to seven inches.
The highest point may be in the center of each section that encloses
the bed, sloping down to five or six inches, or again the twelve inch
point may be at the ends, sloping gradually to the center six or
seven inches; this hedge is most unusual and attractive and after
securing the curving line, very little clipping is needed to keep it
in form.

These little fower-bed hedges or edges are uncommon and un-
commonly trim. Where there are steps in a garden an effect
of beauty and interest may be secured with boxwood pyramids,
the pointed pyramids of different heights, using four or five each
side. The number and height of course is determined by the

number of steps. The lowest steps having at each side the shortest
pyramid. I am certain you can conjure a picture of the finish
given by such a planting; you can visualize how the pyramids
would give an unusual note to a garden, by the simplest possible
effort. The very dwarf boxwood edging (suffruticosa) trees
should be replanted about every two years because their own roots
force them out of the ground. They rejoice in a Spring feeding of
bone and lime, equal parts, a liberal sprinkling of it around the little
trees and then cultivated into the soil will keep them nourished and
lovely year after year. They grow slowly and the clipping needed
to keep their form is done in the early Spring; it is neither tedious
nor laborious and once or twice only during the entire Summer will
it be required.

ON THE SOWING OF ea
SEEDS OF HARDY yi
HERBACEOUS PLANTS

t HE promotion, improvement and reconstruction
of the hardy garden should be planned for early
in July. Rather early, maybe you are thinking,
but it is not too early. This is the time when ail
the seed of the uncommon, much coveted hybrids should be
sown. August or even late July sown seed will produce
seedlings that will survive the Winter only in cold frames,
whereas early July sown seed are sturdy plants, quite out
of the seedling class by late September, well able to winter
in the open with protection, starting growth in the Spring,
weeks before cold frame plants could possibly be planted out.

Plan now for a great cutting garden, a garden where
armfuls of pink Hollyhocks and blue Delphiniums may be
cut and not rob it, where the newest hybrid and sweetly rem-
iniscent old-fashioned hardy flowers may be grown, grown
in such abundance that cutting them is a joy.

Sow these seed just as you do seed of annuals. Order
seeds of Aconitums, Adenophora, Adoris, hardy gold and
silver Alyssum, Amsonia, Anchusas, Anemones Sylvestris
and Japanese, Anthemis, St. Bruno’s Lily, Arabis, Armeria,
Columbines (only the hybrids with long spurs), Michaelmas
Daisies, Aubretias, Campanulas, Cerastium (Snow in Sum-
mer) Daisies, Bellis and Shasta, Delphiniums, especially
King, Belladonna, Grandiflora, Chinensis and the English
hybrids (seed obtainable here) Foxgloves, Eupatoriums,
Gaillardias, Eremurus, decorative grasses tall, medium and
dwarf, Heucheras, Hollyhocks, give preference to the sin-
gle pink, buff, salmon, and scarlet, Lobelias, Lupins, all of
them, Lathyrus, Linums, Forget-me-nots, Evening Prim-

, roses, Phlox, the finer sorts, Physostegias, Platycodons, Ori-

ental Poppies, Primulas, Polyanthus saxifraga, Sedums, Statice,
Pyrethrums, Blue Salvias, Sweet Williams, particularly Pink
Beauty—Thalictrum for its foliage, Trollius, Scabiosas, Veronicas,
Wallflowers, Violas and Violets.

The all-important factor in garden enjoyment is that there
be plenty of flowers to cut and it is the hardy herbaceous plants
that after all is said and done, provide us with this incalculable
pleasure.

By A
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1 look the value of vistas. It is well in considering vista val-
«ues to plan for a double vista. There are various ways of
accomplishing this. A vine-covered arch, separating a central walk
from walks going to the right and to the left from the arch, and
beyond a central flower bed, with a mass planting of hardy golden-
salmon hybrid-tea roses, centered on the archway, will produce a
colorful vista. From the other side of the bed containing the roses
looking through the arch, we see beyond it the stone or brick-paved
walk leading to the shrubbery, each side of the walk planted with
tree (standard) and bush roses of Frau Karl Druschki, then the
exquisite edging rose Marie Pavie, and Dwarf Golden Daisies,
this terminating in an arched entrance gateway to the herbaceous
garden, the lily garden, a semi-circular recess, a garden seat, rest
house or a simple weathered piece of garden statuary, a bird bath
or a sun-dial, all are useful in forming vistas.

The arched gateway could be wreathed with roses, using the
ever-blooming cream white Trier and massing at the base of each
plant, at each side and in front the dwarf Delphinium Chinensis
(blue) and Golden Daisies. Here we will have blooms until
Autumn.

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77\V ERY letter, “Amateur Gardeners,” will be answered—
m every garden need, every garden problem that con-
fronts you, puzzles you or worries you, write about it
\@ and if I cannot help you solve it, I will see to it that
oie) those who specialize in that particular problem, need

ne or worry of yours will do so.— eA Bed oA

Q. My garden was a tragedy last Summer and Mrs. Harde you
will understand why, when I tell you that my rose beds were bor-
dered with dwarf Zinnias of the most awful colors. My garden
seemed to be all Zinnias. It seems I could not get away from them.
With all the fine and soft toned border plants we have to choose
from, to think the very first garden of my own I should have had
such stiff and inappropriate flowers as a border to my well chosen
roses in a really charmingly planned rose garden. I won’t enter
into detail of the other numerous horrors of my garden. I only
ask you to please have a list of permanent, hardy border plants
sent me for my rose garden. I have two beds of yellow roses, one
of pink roses, two of white roses and a long, very long bed of the
red roses, the list of which you sent me last April.

A. Indeed gardens have their tragedies, and they are not al-
ways the death of a well loved tree or of a precious rose, etc.
That riot of color we hear and read so much about is not infre-
quently responsible fo the color tragedy. Zinnias of certain
shades have a place, but the place is not with roses (your poor un-
happy roses) or in my opinion anywhere except in the vegetable
garden bordering the Cosmos and the tall and dwarf scarlet Sal-

vias grown inside the vegetable garden wall, or hedge. There is
their place, and there they are dear little flowers, but only if you
plant the soft buff and vivid scarlets in front of dwarf Zurich Salvia,
which should border the tall Salvia “Bonfire” or “Splendens” they
in turn bordering only the purest white Cosmos. The vivid yellow
and orange shades of Zinnias should be placed in the yellow flower
bed far away from all that is delicate and fine in our gardens. You
will find many hardy border plants explicitly described in this
number of Our Garden Journal. May I suggest that a border
of the hybrid Viola Atropurpurea for your pink rose beds would
be a really happy choice.

Purple, Wedgewood, and Cobalt and bright blue Violas Cor-
nuta to border your yellow rose beds; all the Violas and French
and Irish Anemones as a border to the white rose beds and for the
long red rose bed the buff, white and gold Violas Cornuta.

If you will use only Violas and French and Irish Anemones
as borders to all your rose beds you will obtain a finish that is har-
monious even though it may be rather formal, but uniformity in
your rose garden is not only important, but decidedly desirable.
Do not permit them to go to seed. It is too much to ask of any
plant to flower and seed the entire Summer. I have said so often,
it is the seeding, not the flowering that exhausts a plant.

* Kk

Q. Ihave a low hill-side where I would like to plant something
bright and hardy. I am also planning for a number of ornamental
evergreens and would appreciate a list of the best. I would like
four varieties, as I intend having a large planting of but few va-
rieties. Would Japanese weeping cherry trees be effective near a
group of fine old Spruce trees?

A. Plant hills and slopes with mountain laurel (Kalmia lati-
folia) Japanese Yews and Parkman’s Crab. The evergreens you
wish the varieties of for ornamental planting are, Abies concolor
(fir) Douglas laxifolia (fir) Veitch’s Abies (fir) Red Pine resinosa
and Pinus Mughus. The Japanese Weeping Cherry trees would be
seen at their very best near the Spruces.

Naturalize low growing and tall tulips in shades of mauve,
different shades of pink and purple in advance of the Japanese
Weeping Cherry Trees.

Q. Pleases give Formula of what is known as Tonks’ Manure:
A. The following is the formula:

Superpliosphacey ey ys seks hela ea ole 12 parts
Nitrate) of Potash... 3/5.) 8 ee es 10 parts
Sulphate of Magnesia................ 2 parts
suuphatei@e Pram fy). e oes aie ees 1 part

Sulphate of Lime (gypsum).......... 8 parts

Mix thoroughly and it is ready to use. One ounce worked
into each square yard of soil surface in June is safe and timely.

*x* *

Q. Will you please favor me with a list of hardy plants, tall,
medium and dwarf for edging a rhododendron planting? The edge
has enough sun for sun loving plants.

A. For Rhododendrons edging use Abelia, White Day Lilies,
White and Blue Carpathian Harebells, White and Blue Dwarf
Delphinium Chinensis, White Desmodium, all the Violas, Iberis,
Forget-me-nots, and White Dianthus Sedums-Andromedas
(Weeping) Bleeding Hearts (Dwarf Fromosa) Hardy Primroses,
Japanese Lychnis, the purest White “Grandiflora Alba” Merteusia
(Blue Bells) Lupines Polyphyllus—Blue, White and Pink Moer-
heimi.

I believe a two foot border of Andromeda (weeping) with
ever-blooming Forget-me-nots (Palustris) White Dianthea
(Snowball) hardy golden Primroses and Violas filling in the bare
places would be very sweet, or the dwarf Delphinium Chinensis,
Japanese Iris, Forget-me-nots and Violas. Or a waved line of
dwarf Bleeding Hearts (Formosa) the bare places filled with
Iberis. These are all hardy plants, soft, fine colors and excellent
for bordering and edging.

sey) WW sk

Q. Please suggest what you would recommend as a good grace-
ful shrub not too dwarf to plant against a wall.

A. Desmodium-pendula Lespedeza. This shrub is extremely
graceful. It will grow to five feet in good soil, but as it is so pen-
dulous and showering, it may be used to perfection as a “wall”
shrub. The drooping flower pendants are a deep fine purple and
with a spot of scarlet at the base of each.

aie 5)

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ae

Hy, LL subscribers are requested to contribute short articles to

’a) Our Garden Forum relative to their garden experiences,
a) successes and difficulties, and matters of interest pertain-
ing to unusual garden conditions, the whims of flowers,
etc.

Dear Mrs. Harde:

Our Garden Journal is issued for and by real flower lovers,
who work to develop the beauty of God’s earth in gardens. It is
exactly these people the American Rose Society wishes now very
definitely to interest and associate with it.

As you know, the American Rose Society is responsible for
three succeeding issues of the American Rose Annual, the one for
1918 probably now being on your desk. As its editor I can only
speak of the kindness, breadth and ability of the great men and
women who have contributed to make it a unique presentation of
original matter relating to the queen of flowers. It is a volume of
wholly net character, there being no more space-filling banalities
in it than in Our Garden Journal. Indeed, again as editor, I can
say that it was with open thought the blue pencil was used as elab-
orately as I found it necessary to use it to bring the original re-
search matter relating to roses within the limits of the book.

Every garden worker with roses will rejoice at the facts made
accessible in Dr. Massey’s really notable statement of his two years
of research in rose pathology, undertaken at the instance and the
expense of the American Rose Society. To be able easily to con-
trol rose black-spot and powdery mildew will mean better roses,
and more of them.

I have made the American Rose Annual for rose lovers. It
is not in commerce and cannot be bought through book stores. It
belongs to the members of the American Rose Society, and there
are now more than a thousand of these, who include the most in-
terested and able rose growers, both amateur and professional, in

the world. Yours truly,

J. HORACE McFARLAND,
Editor, “The American Rose Annual.”
My Dear Mrs. Harde:

I wish to testify as to the value of Iron Sulphate as advised in
the first number of Our Garden Journal. My hybrid tea
roses came through an unusually hard winter in a weakened con-
dition, many of them dying, and the rest in such condition as to be
susceptible to all the diseases the rose is heir to. Following your
directions implicitly they have done finely ;—their new growth is
free from black spot and mildew, notwithstanding a very wet
season.

I have had an opportunity to compare the Lyon with the new
Los Angeles. I find the latter is only superior in vigorous growth
and foliage;—the bud is beautiful but when fully opened inferior
to Lyon. Both bloomed at the same time and I found Lyon a
better keeper when cut and I think more beautiful in shade. But
its unfortunate habit of growth leaves it behind in the race in which
the Willowmere is a mighty close second. Dr. R.W.S.

* * #€

Here is the formula of a remarkably efficient spray I would
recommend to all Subscribers. This spray is to be used where rose

_ bugs, beetles, and all parasites that have become terrible pests
almost beyond combating. It has been tested and the results
proven entirely satisfactory in one of the largest American nur-
series.

One six ounce bar of ivory soap dissolved in two quarts of hot
water ;—when cold add one pint of coal oil, whip it until it is frothy
which will be in about ten minutes, add enough water to this mix-
ture to make two gallons. Steep 8 ounces of tobacco stems in a
gallon of water, allow them to steep over night, press and drain
and add enough water to make a gallon. Mix this gallon of to-
bacco water with the other two gallons of mixture, adding a table-
spoonful of carbolic acid. All these ingredients must be most thor-
oughly mixed. A stone jug or crock is the best utensil to keep it
in, Strain and apply in the form of a mist (not a spray or shower)
when the leaves have developed, but are not full size. The mist
must be applied under as well as over the top of the foliage. This
is a powerful spray, the amount given should mist hundreds of rose
plants, ramblers, etc. Use the mist once a week but see that it is

applied as a mist only.— CS: és .

FLOWERS IN VERSE
BY GABRIELLE MULLINER

, .. }HAVE read and reread with infinite pleasure Gabrielle
\] | Mulliner’s “Flowers in Verse” recognizing in these
i} poems the abiding love which is the birth-right of
every woman for flowers and trees and all nature;—
=| the cultivated, the wild, the faithful roadside flower
= =i friend the stone wreathed with the vine that we
touched with loving childish hands in years gone by.
Gabrielle Mulliner has given us in her poems a new meaning
for the growing things;—ponder on the beauty of these lines:

WISTARIA

When young Dionysos, the God of the Vine,

First taught the Greek people the use of the wine,
A wee Japanese joined the Satyrs and men

Who followed the Youth on his journeyings then.

The beauty of clusters of ripe purple grapes,

The nectar kissed cups in their small perfect shapes
Enraptured the Jap so soulful and sad

For the beautiful fruit and the color it had.

But when in their revels the Satyrs and such

And fair Dionysos himself had too much,

The Jap said “The beauty I'll have without wine.”
To his Japanese Jupiter, “Send me a sign,

Send me, I pray, all the beauty of vine,

Send me the cluster of purple to twine

Over a trellis to gladden my soul

But keep back the wine that the Satyrs control.”

The Japanese Jupiter, sitting above

On a lacquer Olympus, send down a dove
With a spray of Wistaria purple and sweet,
Which fell to the Earth at the little Jap’s feet.

So while Dionysos to Bacchus was grown,

The wee Japanese had Wistaria sown,

And his country is filled with the clusters of white
And purple and yellow, as beautiful quite

As clusters of grapes on Bacchus’s vine

To cheer through the eyes, and without any wine,
The wee Japanese, neither Satyr nor man,

Who loved but the color—a little Jap Pan.

Notwithstanding that “Flowers in Verse” has been privately
printed, it may be obtained at Brentano’s and Scribner’s. It is

a gem. The reading of it makes one feel a real tenderness and
understanding for all the flowers. I earnestly congratulate Ga-

brielle Mulliner.
OG

BOOKS RECEIVED
(To Be Reviewed Later)

“The Garden Under Glass.” By W. F. Rowles............ (J. B. Lippincott Company)
“The Mary Frances Garden Book.” By Jane E. Fryer....(John C. Winston Company)

IRS

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‘ War Sorces Sale of : MY
iM Norld Gamous Collection of |i

{i Gree Seonies

The old-established firm of Brochet & Son, successors to the famous Paillet
Nurseries, Chatenay, France, offered to me, and I have purchased, their entire
collection of Mother Plant Tree Peonies.

This most interesting collection contains 238 varieties and upwards of 2,000
specimens, ranging in age from ten to fifteen years. These plants were safely
transported eighteen months ago to my Wyomissing Nurseries. They are in
prime condition and the past season has shown them to be probably the most
notable, and certainly ihe most interesting collection of Tree Peonies in
existence.

Such a collection has long been my ambition. It is fully realized in these
glorious specimens—the most wonderful flowers I have ever seen. I have
reserved one each of the Mother Plants of the 238 varieties for my Specimen
Garden, and from these plants I shall in time propogate for the future.

The balance of the collection I am glad to be able to offer to the peony
lovers of America:

Collection A: 1 plant of each of 25 different varieties, $100.00
Collection B: 1 plant of each of 10 varieties, —- 50.00

Each of these plants is entirely on its own original roots, a matter of first
importance. There is no choice between the plants offered and those I have
planted in my Specimen Garden—all are perfect.

Extra heavy specimens such as these Mother Plants have rarely been offered
even in Europe and never before in this country, and it is with diffidence, and
hesitancy because of the circumstances which forced their original owners to |
part with them, that I put a price at all upon them.

Only a very limited number of collections are possible. I shall, personally,
make the selections for each order, and each order will be filled as received;
to be delivered with the utmost care to your garden for planting this fall.

If you are interested, may I suggest your immediate order?

ee TRANG H.FARR
WYOMISSING NURSERIES COMPANY

WYOMISSING, PENNSYLVANIA
New DOUBLE YELLOW TREE PEONY, Souvenir de Maxime Cornu

ff Entirely new to the trade. Similar to La Lorraine; coloring a deep yellow, with deep
il x | coppery red at base of petal, gradually shading to yellow, giving the flower an effect similar

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to some Pernetiana roses. I have acquired the entire stock of this wonderful flower, together
with La Lorraine from the French introducers, and can offer for fall planting not more than
ten plants at $35 each.

IN WRITING, MENTION “OUR GARDEN JOURNAL.”

GARDEN NOTES

___ O NOT fail to see that all faded flower sprays on your
hybrid lilacs and other lilacs are cut off before going
to seed.

Cut away all suckers springing from the base of
the bush lilacs.

Lime the surface soil more liberally where lilacs are planted
than where other shrubs are planted.

Increase Bleeding Hearts by cutting them in half straight down
through the center of the roots.

Divide roots of late Hardy Pompon Chrysanthemums to in-
crease your planting of these flowers.

Make several plants from one spreading edging plant of Cam-
panula carpatica (Harebells) by dividing the clump.

Cut up the tap roots of Anchusa Italica into inch pieces; each
inch piece will produce a splendidly sturdy plant.

Thin out the Forget-me-nots and plant the roots taken out
for a note of blue, but let it be where it is not dry or hot.

Physostegia will be all the better for thinning out. Plant the
pieces left by the thinning process on the outer edges of your
Physostegia massing, increasing its size and beauty.

Treat the Michaelmas Daisies just as advised for Physostegia.

Transplant blooming and seeding Portulaca plants, giving them
the sunniest place in the garden, on rocks at the base of trees,
etc., where the seed will blow and lodge for next Summer’s flowers.

=< SS

Don’t Think

that because we specialize in large trees and have a hobby for ever-
greens that you should omit Hicks Nurseries when looking for harmoni-
ous color combinations in your flower garden. You can work out new
color combinations all summer. Pick out plants in bloom and have
them blooming in your garden right away.

= «Ke
SSS

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TL

——

The enclosure of the garden is just as important as the flowers.
You can have a wall of green all summer, big Arrowwood, Lilacs,
Pines, Spruce and Hemlocks. There is a big Hemlock hedge 50 years
old, 12 ft. high, 600 ft. long, just right for somebody’s garden or
entrance court.

5 ne

All plants guaranteed to grow satisfactorily, or replaced free at

the nursery.
HICKS NURSERIES

WESTBURY, L. I.

SSNS
——

PHONE: Westbury 68

Gladden Your War Garden
with Gladiolus

Now is the time to consider what you can plant
with the least amount of labor and get the maximum
esults.

Why Not Plant More Gladiolus?

A succession of bloom may be had by planting a
number of bulbs every two weeks from now until
July 1st.

————————

SSS

———
— -

A little cultivation weekly is all they require.

Special Offer Ten Select Varieties

In order to acquaint many of our customers with the
better varieties we are making the following special
low offer:

Special Collection Offer

10 Bulbs each following 10 varieties, 100 bulbs $ 5.00
20 Bulbs each following 10 varieties, 200 bulbs 9.00
50 Bulbs each following 10 varieties, 500 bulbs 20.00

Sold in collections only at the above prices

Apollo Beautiful carmine pink Chicago White—
Fine white Halley—Bright salmon pink Love-
liness—PalePrimrose Mrs.Francis King— Flamingo
pink Panama—Beautiful rose-pink Princepine—
Scarlet blotched white Pink Perfection—The ear-
liest deep pink Schwaben—Pure canary yellow
White Giant—Pure white

STUMPP ¢& WALTER CO.
30-32 Barclay St. New York City

SUTTON’S SEEDS

Regardless of whether it is flower or
vegetable seeds, the big thing, after all,
about Sutton’s Seeds, is the absolute de-
pendence you can put in them.

SEND FOR OUR VEGETABLE AND FLOWER
SEED CATALOG

Sette rdoug

Royal Seed Establishment Reading, England

Winter, Son & Company
64 Wall Street, New York
Sole Agents East of Rocky Mountains
The Sherman T. Blake Co., Pacific Coast Agents

429 Sacramento St., San Francisco

GARDEN NOTES

Grow your Japanese Iris through a carpet of ever-blooming
hardy Forget-me-nots (Palustrus Semperflorens). ‘

Grow French and Irish Anemones for borders with Violas Cor-
nuta; the Anemones will commence to bloom before the Violas
Cornuta.

Clumps of Phlox planted back of masses of German Iris will
screen the unattractive base of the phlox after the Iris blooms
are gone.

Three or four pebbles in the seed, sulphur and charcoal dredgers
will give “ballast” and prevent the contents of the dredgers from
becoming lumpy.

Make a radiant boundary planting, objective or vista with seven
or eleven Norway Spruces, eight feet tall, each with a spread of
six feet and more. In the foreground mass the White Azalea In-
dica and thousands of Daffodils and Narcissi naturalized all about.

Remember to nourish your peonies. Give each clump a half-
pint of bone-meal and one teaspoonful of Sulphate of Iron well
mixed together. Make a ring with this mixture all around the
clump, then work it in very thoroughly. “Ring feeding” prevents
the tool used in working in the food from injuring any new growth
there, but not yet visible. Notice the improvement in size, sub-
stance and color of the peonies after this feeding—in fact the
whole plant will be greatly benefited.

Prepared leaf-mould, and a sand pile are two very important
garden essentials.

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622 FIFTH AVENUE
24 WEST 59th STREET
_ Adjoining Plaza Hotel
TROUSSEAUX
LAYETTES
DELICATE MATERIALS
EXCLUSIVELY
HANDWORK
REAL LACES ONLY

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PETERSON, SINCLAIRE & MILLER, Inc. :

May we have the opportunity of quoting you on all require- = \
ments for the Garden and Lawn? Our service will please you. E()) |
We supply only ARTICLES OF TESTED EXCELLENCE. )

CARTER’S FAMOUS SEEDS |
REX HUMUS mov!

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Fertilizers of all kinds, Implements, Watering Systems, Etc. ve
LAWN CONSTRUCTION A SPECIALTY Wi

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Catalogs and other data gladly furnished. Our “Turf Engineering” and “Rex
Humus” booklets should interest every estate owner. Mailed on request.

—

PETERSON, SINCLAIRE & MILLER, Inc.
25 WEST FORTY-FIFTH ST., NEW YORK PHONE 955 BRYANT

—-

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THE PLAZA HOTEL

Embodies everything of beauty. luxury;
location and creature comfort that
can be demanded by the most exac ting
hotel dweller.

Dunng the winter season the Plaza
1s the centre of fashion and Re
or and ballroom with its splendid
abbomtments 1s the stage upon which
is produced a preat number of the
large banquets, alls and other enter-

tainments that count in the social

life of the Metropolis ‘

FIFTH AVENUE AND 59™ STREET

FRED STERRY, MANAGING DIRECTOR

H “VAIN

PALE
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Established in 1888

Executive Offices NEW YORK Factory
13 East 40th Street 18th to 19th Street, Ave. C
Galleries Paris z
9 c& 11 East 40th Street 18 Faub - Poissoniere

Interiors of Charm and Refinement

in styles of the
Early English, Italian & Spanish, Adams, Colonial & Louis XVI

During the past thirty years H. F. Huber & Co. have executed in their own Factory
and Studios the entire interior work including woodwork, decorations, furniture and
hangings in many of the finest residences throughout the States.

A member of the firm necessarily makes frequent visits throughout the West and
South to inspect the work under execution, thereby insuring individual attention to
all essential details. ‘

Advisement of your desires relative to Interior Decorating and Furnishing will
enable us to inform you as to when a representative will be in your city or vicinity,
who may be consulted.

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GARDEN ORNAMENTS OLD &>NEW
GARDENS LARGE & SMALL EMBELLISHED EMBELLISHED

HOWARD

OVNTAINS

BENCHES lots
BirD Batus Dials
IN MARBLE STONE
TERRA CoTTA &
LEAD, WE ALSO
DESIGN TERRACES
ENTRANCES ETC.
CONSVLTATION BY
APPOINTMENT AT

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CATALOGVE SO?

HOWARD STVDIOS ee for Mrs.A L.Ames Newport
NEW YORK-7 W.47 st. — UO mes

FRANCIS HOWARD pREs.
Phone Vanderbilt

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i Te nal rE eee OT we So Te ae SAS Cr See oO Wie Oa Eee RE OT OS SO OS yO Oe ae aL oe oe

OUR GARDEN JOURNAL

An IMustrated Quarterl
Conducted and Controfled
By Amateur Flower Gardeners
Devoted ae
O
The Art of Flower Gardening
for the Amateur Gardener.

Edited and Written ee

ALT TL ny S
Mrs. Herbert Harde, F. R.H.

BROS
Vy moe

CONTENTS OF THIS ISSUE

MARCH, 1919 ~~ Voll Noid!

THE SPIRIT OF GARDENING Illustration PAGE
IN THE HEART OF A ROSE Walter Easlea Z
APROPOS OF NOTHING 4
THE SLEEPING GARDEN—Poem Minna Irving 6
WITHIN THE HERBACEOUS GARDEN Elinore E. Harde 8
THE BEAUTY OF THE TAMARIX FAMILY 45
A PILGRIMAGE 48
THE GREAT FLOWERED CLEMATIS 56
CONSIDER THE LILIES 60
DO YOU EXHIBIT 66
COLUM BINE—Poem Gabrielle Mulliner 69
THE COLUMBINE ~- 70
A ROYAL PLANT 73
DELPHINIUM—Poem Eussell LE. Lowe 77

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 78
OUR GARDEN FORUM
SOME NEW GARDEN BOOKS
GARDEN NOTES

ILLUSTRATIONS

WITHIN THE HERBACEOUS GARDEN
CONSIDER THE LILIES

THE BLUE LILY OF THE NILE

LA COLOMBINE

ERS

SHED BY OUR GARDEN JOURNAL
BMIREE THIRTY ONE MADISON AVENUE,NEW YORK
AIP TION S&% DOLLARS THE YEAR- BY INVITATION ONLY
Copyrighted Nineteem Nimetéem “By ElinoveE Harde

GMackerauhp.

THE SPIRIT OF GARDENING

“THE SPIRIT OF GARDENING” IS A REDUCED REPRODUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL ENGRAVING AS r-
IT APPEARS IN THE EIGHTH EDITION OF THE GARDENERS’ DICTIONARY BY PHILIP MILLER, PUBLISHED
IN LONDON IN 1768, A COPY OF WHICH I AM SO FORTUNATE AS TO POSSESS.

‘SN

es SS

i) NE of the loveliest roses in bloom on Armistice Day was
{i Peace. One could not gaze upon its exquisite wide-petalled
Se blooms without a feeling of deep thankfulness that peace
had come to this stricken land, and also to contemplate how suit-
ably this rose had been named, owing to its refined almost white
blooms, a perfect reminder of the purity of our cause and also of
the stainless record of our fallen and living heroes.

I fully concur in the remarks of “Blackthorn” that we should
have a glorious rose to bear the name of Marshal Foch—that great
military genius to whom we owe so much. And it should be a
variety likely to live, as Maréchal Niel has lived for so many
years.

In his case it would not be the same as in that of General
Jacqueminot, of whom the poetess writes:

Who is there now knows aught of his story?

What is left of him but a name,

Of him who shared in Napoleon’s glory

And dreamed that his sword had won him his fame.

Ah, the fate of a man is past discerning ;

Little did Jacqueminot suppose

At Austerlitz or at Moscow’s burning

That his fame would rest in the heart of a rose.
—Walter Easlea.

I AM INDEBTED FOR THE ABOVE TO A FRIEND IN PARIS, BUT REGRET NOT HAVING
BEEN INFORMED OF THE NAME OF THE PUBLICATION IN WHICH IT ORIGINALLY
APPEARED, SO THAT CREDIT COULD BE PROPERLY GIVEN.

ICH, of course, I do not expect will be taken
absolutely literally, for, between ourselves, I
i have the pardonable sensation of feeling that I
am considerably more than nothing. Therefore, I am
yielding to the importunities of most of the subscribers
to Our Garden Journal and presenting for the satisfac-
tion, or pleasure, or curiosity of those who know me not
—my picture. From the very first issue of the Journal,
I have received letters asking it. Never having been a
public personage of any sort, and not seeking to shine in
the “strong white light that beats upon the throne,” I
could not exactly see what difference an acquaintance
with my pictured physiognomy would make. Whether
I were fat or thin, tall or short, blonde or brunette seemed
would matter little, so long as what I had to impart were
of value to the Amateur Gardener.

But still the letters came. You know the adage about
the constant dropping of water! Well, I finally came to
be convinced in a measure that the impulse that inspired
the letters was genuine, was a little bit more than idle
curiosity.

Besides, I will own it, I did begin to feel a little proud
of my humble achievement, flung into the world as it was,
at a time when the universe was rocking in the throes of
its greatest human cataclysm. The difficulties that now
appear insignificant, at this distance from them, were, at
the time almost unsurmountable. The ban on paper, the
strictures on labor and even on printers’ ink. But on one
thing there was no ban—the printers’ devil. I had heard
of this blithesome spirit ever since I had ever heard any-
thing about newspapers or printing. It was only after
I had plunged into the effort of publishing a magazine
myself that I realized he was anything but a mischievous
Puck, such as the comic papers depicted him. To my
great perturbation—indeed sorrow—I found that he was
different. I am not sure that I was not convinced that
all printers were devils!

However that may be I struggled on, and if I have
succeeded in giving to my readers the useful hints and
informations for the arrangement and successful conduct
of their own beloved gardens that I have gleaned from
my own experience, my mission has been fulfilled so far,
and I hope will continue to fructify. And, yielding to
the solicitations of my friends, I feel that there can be
no better time to present them with my picture than with
this, the anniversary number of Our Garden Journal.

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While Winter lays his ancient spell
Of hard and bitter cold,

On root and bulb and tiny seed
Fast frozen in the mold.

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S| y garden sleeps,and dreams of when
e sun returns again

Across the many jewelled bridge
That spans the April rain,

A prince in golden mail with gifts

| Of musk and ambergris _

From far-off islands of the South,
To wake it with a hiss.

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NGCaIVD SAGMOVASIAUM WALI NWSLILIAA

WITHIN THE
HERBACEOUS
GARDEN

\AAN we conceive what humanity
“= , would be if it did not know the
bt gal flowers? If these did not exist,
lesumes if they had always been hidden
from our gaze, as are probably a thou-
sand no less fairy sights that are all
around us, but invisible to our eyes,
would our character, our moral system,
our sense of the beautiful our moral ap-
titude for happiness be quite the same?
We should, it is true, have other splendid
manifestations of luxury, exuberance
and grace in nature; other dazzling
efforts of the infinite forces: sun,
stars, moonlight, sky and sea, dawns
and twilights, mountain and plain, for-

iest and river, light and trees and, lastly, near-
ger, to, us, birds, precious stones and woman. § |
by These are the ornaments of our planet.

\fYet, save for the last three, which belong as

it were to the same smile of nature, how grave, §*

4) austere, almost sad would be the education of
sfour eye without the softening influence

4 Apwhich the flowers impart! Suppose, for g f
> Eis ita moment, that our globe knew them not;
‘consider also all that the voice of human hap- |

4 Fpiness would lack! One of the blessed heights
‘of our soul would be almost dumb, if the fow-

Ree ers had not, since centuries, fed with their BF
beauty the language which we speak and the |
thoughts that endeavor to crystallize the most 4
-) precious hours of life. All the impressions of #
m, love are impregnate with their breath, nour- |
a} jished with their smile.” |
oy I never tire of reading these lines of |
J & |}Maeterlinck, I read them over and over |
»L\\fagain with delight, and it seems to me §
}|that we amateur gardeners, who know so § |

eee

| } well, who realize, who see the truth at the a
|| magic of nature in our gardens, it somehow ¢
| } seems to me that there is, there can be no ex- }..
# cuse for so many of the unfortunate gardens [| |
| § that seem to be appealingly crying out for the §§
{icare, for the consideration, for the attention, | {
} affection and, yes, love that flowers must have |
iy to give us so luxuriously of their exceptional |
| | beauty, and color and charm of their lovable ‘ 7/,
| ,and comforting and precious grace. Is it not
| } worth while to really take a real interest in
|our flowers, I mean an interest beyond that of ;
# selecting such varieties as appeal to us, and {7
) this done, leaving all else to the gardener! i
¥ Please be assured of this fact that unless you | |
| @give, and give freely your personal attention {| |
sand an interested interest to your garden, you
Sneed not and cannot and will not receive from
§ “the flowers the best they have and can give ['
§ ¥you. And it is indeed within the herbaceous | |
|, garden that it is necessary, most essential that | *
the treasures therein receive as much care and |

4) thought, if not more than other parts of the#

48 garden.
i So many subscribers have written me re-

®.|§ garding the difficulties encountered in the@ }

. ( making of the herbaceous border, or, as I have 9

\ li been requested by several garden clubs to call

}; it, the herbaceous garden, because to our

i ; American minds the word “border” certainly
| | savors at least of an edge, a frame or an outer |

# line, whereas in England the term herbaceous

ts 2" | border might mean a great planting of peren- §

j{ nial, bi-ennial and annual things varying in J
»# size from a border eight by forty feet to one §

'\ ten times that in size. Nevertheless, large or § |

)| small herbaceous borders mean exactly the § |
4-3 | same thing. :
' Many correspondents complain they get no |
real assistance from the plans they find in|
| garden books indicating where to place this |
jor that plant. This is not surprising. How
}can writers definitely and positively tell their

i and bulbs in a border they have never /¢

|} seen, have no idea ot its size, its lines, its | (%

{ position, etc.?

To tell an individual he must put tallf \ (
plants in the background and graduate to-/ ‘. J
{ wards the front of his herbaceous garden, or |. 3

border, with lower growing things is about} }
all they reasonably can say, if they do not tor- ; |

get to tell the names of the tall plants, how | 4// |
| § tall they are and how long they bloom; how | ¢'*//
| § you can have a succession of bloom until late} {=

| Autumn, making August and September and | i
' October as lovely with certain plants as was ; e
june and July. |

a A subscriber has written me: “I saw in a | £4};

| garden book the most fascinating picture of | U4 -er) |
one section of a planting of a herbaceous bor- [7% §
der. I followed it exactly in one part of my Wy) 4;

| | border and found before even the last of July | 7
that part was bereft of color and bloom.”

y-»U2 i together at the same time, you will under-
“2e\\i stand why it looked “bereft” during the re-
‘mainder of Summer and Autumn. Simply
‘| # | nothing at all had been assembled with those |
} {|| early Summer-flowering plants to continue a
\7 |= display of beauty andcolor. This isa mistake § |
that has been made so long and so often, § ;
though I cannot understand why.
at Right here I am going to give a list of
' 45 early, later, much later and the latest of our
most charming as well as plants for height,

for color, for form, for excellence of habit and § j
<3)| generosity of blooms:
| Pink and buff Hollyhocks and tall blue and}
white Delphiniums.
I hear you ask what is to replace these tall
- early blooming herbaceous plants? Why, here}
'is the sare beautiful pale blue Aconitum,

| Wilsonii which grows six feet high, and the %
_Sparks variety of Aconitum, a clear violet- 4 {~*

| blue growing to five feet, and there is the new |. £,

Delphinium, Progression, whose gold and!

| white flower-spires, will reach up almost into } & y
the pale blue arms of Aconitum Wilsonii, and} j{y ¢

Yellow Day Lilies Citrina. a)
For pink, we have the tall Michaelmas ; |

{ | Daisies, pink Physostegia, Delphiniums, Bel- 47//}\ 4] |
| | ladonna Grandiflora and Moerheimii, pink §@%
| | phlox, Peach Blow or Annie Cook or Eliza- | ;
1 | beth Campbell (the best pink phlox), blue} /

; | Salvias, pink flesh and deep rose Speciosum | :

| Lilies, Lupines, Japanese Anemones (a wide | |
| range), Cimicifuga Simplex, nests of Gladioli, | (i
y the dwarf Aconitum, Fischeri (pale blue), |

} Penstemons Gloxiniodes and lovely Middle- fg

1 | ton Gem, blue Veronica subsessilis, the foliage Me Vy

1 4 of the Yucca, ornamental grasses, Pompon jf‘
|; Chrysanthemums of every hue, white Day |

: § Lilies (subcordata) grandiflora, Platycodons 4’

: | Mareisi, Carpathian harebells, Violas Cor- | |

i: nuta and blue Forget-me-Nots (Palustria § &
ee Semperflorens). This brings us to the very §

**) Fedge of the herbaceous garden. 1
iyi Of the varieties named many are but one §.
{@ § or two members of a large family such as the 9

Consider the blooming season of the } }

‘plants you admire. If you desire groups § }

ny | of the tall, pale blue Aconitum Wilsonii § :

= or towering blue Campanula pyramidalis to & }

»| | replace the King of Delphiniums for a succes- § §
“.§ sion of blue flowers, naturally the Aconitums § §
5 must be planted near. It is the same with the }
succession planting of all tall varieties.
An enthusiastic amateur recently said to §
sme, “I have never seen a large herbaceous |
garden in all my life that did not have af
;gloomy, shadow-darkened spot in it. Will |
you tell me how to treat such a condition? A'|

e*\! high wall and a great tree on the outside of |

} the wall casts a shadow. There are glints of |

7 } sunshine and at certain hours there is almost
| | full sunshine. But pale flowers and the finer | f
ones are completely lost.” :
In such “gloomy” angles, or corners, we A ‘
| | may plant the colorful, gorgeous things we | |
|| simply can’t have near our delicate-hued |
, | flowers. It is in such a place the flamboyant }) |
i | Amaryllis, bold and flaunting, Oriental Pop- 4 | /
i 4 pies, Cannas; Torch Lilies, such Gladioli as
| 1 Mrs. Francis King, Intensity, Lacordaire, etc.,
; : Siberian Coral lilies (Tenuifolium) vivid
: + Heucheras (Pleu de Feu) or the dear old San-
j } guinea; yellow and_ scarlet Columbines,
|@ Orange Day lilies, Turk’s Cap lilies, such |
: | splendid ferns as Aspidium (Christmas Fern), |
| # Lady Fern and Maiden Hair; Caladiums, the | |
| {small leaf sort of gorgeous coloring of which jm
| | Triomphe de l’Exposition is perhaps the most (744
i " striking, with its bright red center and fine *% ('
| | green border. Chantini and Mrs. Jennie Per- || ||
| kins are also lovely, cheerful varieties. All §4 *)/':
) | these in the shadowed angle would bring a }|* |"

\f gay atmosphere to it.

Should two or three or more lace leaf §

| blood-red Japanese Maples be placed in the § |
ivery back ground, loving shade as they do, §-

2? § great warmth, brilliancy and charm would be ib

|i given any drear place in a garden of herbace-

7 | ous perennials.

' Group planting for five months of charm- ;
ing flowers, each variety arranged for succes- fj |
B sion is purely a matter of getting acquainted
| with the characteristics of the hardy herbace- §

| I think it would help a great deal if I|
describe several large groups which I have §

|| to make beautiful our herbaceous gardens for |
: | five long months, here and there introducing |
- certain effective hardy annuals and standard |

if When you see a “double-budded” tree rose,
i ‘such as Caroline Testout or Mme. Ravary, :
| | with a mass of Delphinium Belladonna cloud- }.

| ing the pink of Caroline Testout and the gold | |
j} of Mme. Ravary, then you will understand }
| why tall tree roses are always to be found in Fi
| the English herbaceous gardens. :

GROUP ONE

| Buff Hollyhocks, pink and lavender Phy-|
sostegia, Delphiniums, Belladonna and Moer- ft
} heimi, fine standard (tree) Caroline Testouts, | ¢) WHE) |
| White Lupines, pink Michaelmas Daisy Lil) \WA//3 |
Fardell, Auratum lilies, Japanese Anemones, | {2}. |
Astilbes, pink and white; Longiflorum lilies, } (j»

coral lilies, ferns, yellow, white and scarlet igcixR |
Snap-dragons, tall white Oriental Poppies, y?\%-\ | |
rose pink Heucheras, white Carpathian Hare- /4
# bells, dwarf phlox, hardy pink and blue For-; |
| get-me-nots, all the Violas cornuta, and//?
Lobelia gracilis. ,

GROUP TWO

Pink Hollyhocks, King of Delphiniums,

' \§ Aconitum Wilsonii, Michaelmas Daisy, pink

1 Gracillimus and Feltham “Blue, buff Fox-@:

x a9 gloves, pink and lavender Physostegia,
i) Aconitum—Spark’s variety, pink Lupines,

white and ruby Japanese Anemones, blue
4 Lupines, white Delphinium Chinensis, Ori-'

Vii ‘ental Poppies, Yellow Day lilies, Anchusa

vi ; Opal, pink and ruby Speciosum lilies, Canter- §

=| bury Bells, masses of pink phlox, blue§ |
2)! Delphinium Chinensis, dwarf Bleeding Heart-}
wa : Formosa, blue Carpathian Harebells, Violas §

3) Cornuta.

GROUP THREE

Progression and Porcelain Sceptre Delph-'
‘iniums, Aconitum WNapellus and Wilsonii,|
| Campanula Pyramidalis—white and the =
(| blue, Pink Michaelmas Daisies, white Lu-§ 2
/— pines, yellow Day Lilies, Blue Salvia, pink:

1 | white Heuchera, coral lilies, Spanish Iris, if
| | Platycodon Mareisi— blue, also the white, [.
|} dwarf phlox—and Irish Anemones and/

it Violas.

GROUP FOUR

King of Delphiniums, Moerheimi, Bella- ;
donna Grandiflora and Capri Delphiniums;

| pink, white and blue Lupines, pink phlox, jj) |
ornamental Grasses, yellow Day lilies—Flava; ' 3

| Longifiorum lilies, Veronica Incana, Coral | y
lilies, ferns, Spanish Iris, Heuchera, Frenth | 42) §

| Anemones, giant pansies, pink verbena, and (C7 |

# forget-me-nots.

One could go on indefinitely bringing to- + :
gether flowers for all flower time. It must be § |

remembered there are all the Speciosum lilies;

the Longiflorum lilies, the Auratum and coral | |,

' | —both the blue and white, tall, yellow, tree ' 5
, roses, Mme. Ravary or Marquis de Sinety; | |

\} lilies, the iris, all the exquisite heucheras, the
1 Cimicifuga Simplex, the blue and mauve and
{purple Veronicas, the Oriental Poppies, the!
| delicate Astilbes, the Tritomas (Torch lily).
-1We may have these every day from June
\fto mid-October at least. The Longiflorum J
“lis almost a replica of the Madonna lily, |
‘7 only the trumpet is longer and it is really}
handsomer and as it blooms later it should
_ be planted without fail.
' The pink Canna, Mrs. Alfred F. Conard, is §
: so pinkly lovely surrounded with the blue tas-
' sels of Salvia Pratensis, I should wish every §
>, gardener to grow it that way. The blue Sal-
_ }| vias are so invaluable for cutting and they §
=| bloom toward the end of Summer with the § §
i Japanese Anemones, the Physostegias, the}
>| early blooming Michaelmas Daisies, the late |
| lilies and the early Pompon Chrysanthemums. §
| The last, by the way, should be grown in
— abundance. |
» A thorough understanding of succession |

| planting has been one of our most perplexing Be : 2
questions and it seems to me that we amateur § {“
| gardeners are only just now coming to some-
' thing like a complete knowledge of the real
i } meaning of the art. It will be somewhat an-
; | noying to most of us when we realize that one § §
i hour of study, one hour of thoughtful con-#}
; | sideration may make it all so clear that we feel } | 4)
| | we have affronted our intelligence in grasping 44) |) /
| | the idea so tardily. Perhaps it may be that (€*)/ )
| | its very simplicity is the reason, since our big! Jey 22 |
| | problems—big difficulties—we meet and usu-{ })))54)) |
) | ally readily overcome. But in the trifling]@ Wy ?
| | matter of succession—really I think you will} ¥ - a
1 see at once that it must be its very simplicity § |
that has made it so difficult. This sounds} §
} rather paradoxical doesn’t it? But I know
perfectly well you understand what I mean. 7,
There are gardeners who have conceived | |
| methods of their own for assembling the large al
| and varied wealth of material they may have : :
for their individual gardens, finding out and | |

Blearning for themselves a more definite, af
more concrete meaning than the time worn
expression “blooming in their season” con-
veys. That sentence “blooming in their sea-

= %son” makes me very cross every time I see it
jj, in print, because it means nothing it can mean

/nothing to the beginner when planning for
the most familiar plants with the newer and}
novel plants. We read, “This wonderful hy-

‘brid takes its place among the most superb
| discoveries of the twentieth century, and§
when in flower is strikingly beautiful, etc.,
-etc.” But this does not tell us just when it is
in flower. And more than this, a statement

such as this: “In its season this plant dom-!
inates by its beauty everything in the garden.” §
{| But does it tell us when we may expect “its}

season?” Or again: “This plant has a long}
blooming season,” but we wonder and want
to know when, because it might indeed be a!
' “long season” for that particular plant, but a!

jactual flowering period.
| The day is here when we amateur garden-
Jers expect and have a right to expect the ut-

‘most explicitness. We cannot be content with }'

less and that is the key to the situation that
‘solves the question of why so few of us do not

lunderstand the method of succession plant- fi
ing, for succession flowers, for a succession of ]
color, for a succession of height in assembling |
our hardy perennials and bi-ennials in our her- /@.

|baceous gardens. We cling to the dear old

things we know all about, our tried and trust- } [

worthy friends, when as a matter of plain fact
| our gardens might be distinguished for their
| charm and unusualness, which would incur no

more effort than would be required for plant-

§ ing “the dear old things we know all about,” Jj
+ @ without obtaining the results we long for.

I have seen so many instances where ordi-
| nary gardens were lifted into a sphere of great
3 loveliness by applying the knowledge gained

through just a little serious and intelligent | Ly

—

study. There are certain exotically beautiful ¥
plants that will grow and bloom quite as well

by] in the open garden as they do under glass and

they may be grown successfully with as sim- §
ij ple culture as a bed of annuals. No elaborate

i system of culture is desirable nor is it at allf

necessary.
I have often spoken of the Blue Lily of
the Nile (Agapanthus) and the Calla Lily
i (Arum), how easily they may be started in
§ five, six, seven or eight inch pots and plunged
1} in the out of door garden beds, pots and all,

Xi y , simply digging a hole large enough to receive

the pot, one inch of the garden soil will cover
and hide the pot, so that when the surface is
cultivated it has the appearance of a rare and§

~3{ exotic green-house specimen growing in the
Of open as care-free and happy as a pansy or a
harebell. Amaryllis (Belladonna Lily), all
the Speciosum lilies, the noble yellow Calla,
' the dwarf ever-blooming Calla, the rarest of

: buffy gold.

| When these super-beauties have done | (%

| flowering one does not have the ripening of (:

‘the tuber or bulb to wait for during the un- | |
|attractive yellowing stages, because the pot | hn
|and all is lifted out and placed in an obscure |) 7 9
| but sunny place in the garden, to proceed with | | ai; a*y
the ripening process. Then from a reserve | |'¥)|
store you plunge another pot in the vacant )¢// |}

place and the process of succession goes on.

I was so excited and enraptured over a} jea asa |
mass of lilies away up high in a rock gardeny |
| that I was privileged to climb up and see how Ld
| it had been accomplished. Such clever cun-)

'ning! Such ingeniousness!

Here were dozens and dozens of pots hid- | 2A) |
den away among the rocks, covered with ferns |@f{,
and moss and delicate vines (even many of |
the vines were in pots), having all the grace /
| and lightness of things that had been growing | |
there forever and forever. A glowing drapery }j |
of Trumpet Vine fell over rocks back of which ;

§were pots of Turks Cap Lilies, so fed up and

1 nourished that they were magnificent. The

»*) Trumpet Vine was planted in an old wooden

bs) | | butter tub in soil so rich the individual flowers

» } were as large as a half pint measure. My hos-

i tess informed me that it had taken just a few

67 hours to arrange all those pots and secure the

| effect on that rocky eminence, which was lit-

| tle less than marvelous. Other radiant flowers

_|# were being “brought on” in frames, etc. to

em | replace the lilies and other plants.

My friend told me she had nine gardeners,

but no head gardener! I thought that rather

significant. Her garden smock was of clear

green linen with a white linen collar, Irish
lace, ball buttons and frogs fastened it. The§@

. _two pockets were deep, but narrow, one

4%} bulged with faded flowers, snippings, dead

# leaves, etc. and from the other plant labels,

short stakes, string and raffia peeped out. I

- smiled. It impressed me as so familiar. :

I want to describe her garden hat. It was|

lof shiny pineapple straw (fadeless), the crown (a4),
had been wound about with wide green taf- ) Payig
feta ribbon. A small bunch of yellow velvet } Zr"
Zinnias held it fast. I do admire Zinnias on }
a garden hat! a
| We talked of gardens and garden work },
‘until we both grew breathless. .
“T am as mad about lime as you are, Mrs. §
| Harde, and I have routed all the rose grubs § 4
‘with the Sulphate of Iron you advised and I #3)
|} have a supply of bone-flour and Scotch soot :
always handy. I believe in feeding my plants | f
jliberally. I superintend all the spraying. I}.
|also oversee the preparation of the sprays.” | Vay.
| My last question was, “Do you understand |}:
succession planting?” | Pali
_ “Yes— No— Oh! well, I’m learning.” I }2AF
§ certainly agreed that she was. )

FRAMING -BORDERING EDGING

Much of the success of a strictly ordered, }7%
very trim garden depends to a large degree } | mf

upon the planting of the flower bed borders. §
#) Indeed much labor and plant material may |
be expended without producing any finish,

are of low growth and so suited for bordering,
#iframing and edging, in the assembling of
harmonious colors it might not be an uncom-
imon error to suppose that here the amateur
=, ) gardener may find real self-expression.
A most exquisite border I know of was
i) composed of the new Lavender Alyssum, |
| dwarf pink Snap-dragon and dwarf spreading
Heliothrope. Another was of ever-blooming ;
iblue Forget-me-nots (Palustris), giant curled §
‘Pansies and gold California Poppies. An-
other of Rosy Morn Petunias, blue Ageratum |
(Stella Gurney) and cream California Pop-
i WF jpies; still another very dwarf blue Ageratum |
©} (Little Blue Star), pink Begonias (Prima }
!Donna) and pink annual Lupines. Other be-

|witching borders were made with:

1—Pink Forget-me-nots, “Heavenly blue” } (“#94

: : grape Hyacinths and yellow Pansies.

2—Blue Forget-me-nots, dwarf golden ; |

§ Snap-dragons and pale pink Verbenas.

3—White sweet Alyssum (Benthami), : |
‘blue (nine inch) Ageratum and coral pink § |

Begonias.

4—White Carpathian Hare-bells, dwarf Y

)pink Clarkia and blue annual Lupines.

5—Purple Verbenas, dwarf pink Godetia | 5

and Azure Fairy, a dwarf Delphinium.
| 6—White sweet Alyssum (Little Dorrit),

Pansies, blue ever-blooming Forget-me-nots }} ¥\\

!and yellow annual Lupines.
7—Blue Carpathian Hare-bells, dwarf

white Snap-dragons, pink Dianthus and jg

dwarf golden Daisies.

8—White sweet Alyssum (Benthami), |

golden Lantana, blue and yellow annual
§ Lupines.

9—Lavender Alyssum, rose pink Godetia | |.

jand pink and mauve Verbenas.

: 10—White sweet Alyssum, blue Carseat
‘3thian- Hare-bells, cherry-pink Clarkia and

\ 1k dwarf blue Delphinium Chinensis.

11—Dwarf (six inches) blue Ageratum, |

{white Dianthus Snow-ball, yellow California

Vi ‘Poppies and Blue Salvia Patens.
i | 12—White sweet Alyssum (Benthami), §

jj, azure blue Pansies (giants) and pink Forget-
| me-nots.

13—Blue trailing Lobelia, white bush §

( : Lobelia, gold, bronze and blue Pansies and

O01! white annual Lupines.

14—-Blue Ageratum (nine inches), dwarf

4 golden Daisies, azure Fairy Delphiniums, in-
.' 0 termediate pink (Nelrose) Snapdragons.
} 15—Pink Verbenas, French Anemones |

nensis.
16—White sweet Alyssum, Rajah Califor-

nia Poppies, yellow Cactus flowered dwart |

Zinnia, Blue Butterfly dwarf Delphiniums.

| 17—Blue Verbenas, pink Clarkia (dwarf), 1
| blue, white and yellow annual Lupines and § (=
1 | white dwarf Delphinium Chinensis. f
}{ 18—Rosy-morn Petunias blue and white |
|} Carpathian Hare-bells, golden Lantana, yel- §
1 low and soft pink intermediate Snapdragons. | {
: 19—White sweet Alyssum (Benthami), } |
) | French and Irish Anemones, blue Forget-me- 3] ¥
nots, giant Pansies, gold and blue pink, cream, (4//4
! } yellow and blue annual Lupines.
{| 20—Pink Forget-me-nots, pink, blue and |
} } buff French and Irish Anemones and Blue
} | Butterfly Delphiniums. if
: Here are twenty-four different borders, | :
i each individually lovely. Indeed I could com- |
} {pletely fill this number of “OUR GARDEN jf!
¢ § JOURNAL” with border, framing and edg- t#
ing descriptions and everyone would be such ¥
as any amateur gardener might easily have |
@in her garden. Most of the things I have |
i | named with the exception of the pink Forget- |
me-nots, the French and Irish Anemones and 9 i.

}perhaps one or two others are continuous § §
# bloomers. Of course as you must know, they
3) pare continuous bloomers only if they aren’t
,allowed to go to seed. We can replace the
Anemones, pink Forget-me-nots, Clarkias
{and Godetias with lovely Viola Cornuta, for
") flowers until well through Autumn.

The dwarf annual Delphiniums Azure
Fairy and Blue Butterfly are the rarest, most |
charming little blue annuals you have ever
seen, they bloom unceasingly and are so val-
uable for cutting. The Cactus-flowered Zin-

those most of us are acquainted with. It is|
of perfect cactus Dahlia form, a wee, quaint, §

= | know I am not over-partial to Zinnias in the # §

flower garden.

Of course there are gardens where only
perennial borders are desired, which limits
one very much when seeking all Summer
} flowers. We can’t expect such glowing col-

ors, nor can we hope to have such a diversity
of blooms. it eee ae
| First of all the dwarf perennials suitable | @rpgh |
for bordering is the gold and pale lemon }\
‘colored Alyssum Saxatile, gay and pretty, I : 8)
know, but by mid-June it has finished bloom- | g=¥ ff,
}ing. Now Armeria Maritima and Plantaginea, | |
dainty pink, low growing plants bloom on and 4 | (i>
on from May to September, while Aubretia | }//||
grandiflora, lavender blue, and Aubretia Al
_Leichtlinii deep rose, flower only to May. As
they are only four inches high, tucking them ‘ st ha
in about the early tulips or in the rock-garden | 4) \4=| |
‘is the proper place for them. There are the | 1 Af
| Carpathian Hare bells two in blue (a good }-f
' clear blue) and a pure white that bloom all } i; i

| \ through the Summer months and Autumn, Jeet
and are so sweet and round and lovely, grow- US\F
ing about eight inches high. Tomeno border |*
plant surpasses them. Hardy Candytuft }.
comes next in two varieties, one an all white jj}
the other white and pink. I regret to say their | /

flowering ends with the Spring.
| Then there are the spicy Scotch pinks, the
‘} Cheddar Pinks, Maiden Pinks and Glacier |
Pinks, such dear little plants, but unfortu-
»Us? | nately they don’t bloom inthe Summer. The
| Bellis Daisy we all know very well. It is in-
#{ dispensable when cuddled with hardy blue

Forget-me-nots and golden California pop-§ !
| pies, and when its season is passed the won-§ |
drous Viola Atropurpurea may take its place. | |

} snow flies. The dwarf hardy Delphiniums,

ii blue and white Chinensis, must in their turn

be bordered, as they are too tall even as
dwarfs for the very edge, but if you plant}

LPL Linum Flavum with its feathery gold flowers @
~-#) { in front of Chinensis and blue and white Car-
F&F pathian Harebells as a border to Linum

Flavum, you will have an exquisite hardy §
border. Even the Harebells could be bor-
' dered with perennial Forget-me-nots (Palus-
) tris Semperflorens), or Farquhar’s Pillar

] }Forget-me-nots, which are quite as hardy as

|| Palustris and will bloom from early Spring | Payee
sown seed the very same Summer. This }' 292%

{were!), as it grows into a clear, bright blue § ¢ |

} diminutive column or pillar, and is one of the /gea;s
best hardy Forget-me-nots for cutting. is
| Of the Platycodons, Mariesi is an excellent §
edging plant, growing less than a foot high. § 4)

|There are two shades, a blue and a paper | f

white, and they bloom continuously. I have §¥~
‘used them in borders for years, but always | n\ le
}bordering them with violas or very dwarf ft Vv |
iphlox and planting the white, yellow and {¥
| orange-scarlet Iceland Poppies directly back }-¥#/
of the dwarf Mariesi Platycodons. The pret-
tiest hardy phlox to place before the Mariesi §:
Platycodons is Argon, it is a salmony-rose and |YANG
Breally beautiful, particularly with the steel : va
blue and paper white Mariesi. Another dwarf }
| edging phlox is Evenement, also a rosy-sal-:
# mon, and Nana Caerulea, a remarkable baby §:

| sort of violet-blue. |

‘ Just picture a border of hardy pink Forget-§ #

4) me-nots! Farquhar’s Alpestris variety, bor-§ '

| dered with hardy blue Forget-me-nots, Palus-§ |

){ tris; then violet blue phlox, Nana Caerulea, q
48 white Platycodons Mariesi and Rose-pink
¥ Zephyranthes—this is indeed a most effective
border. The skill of a master gardener is not

needed to make it, either, because one may@§@ |}

| have this unusual hardy border for edging the § |

perennial garden beds with no more trouble |

1) than a border of ordinary annuals. a i

ij) We can use the dwarfest of all hardy @ |

| phlox, Tapis Blanc, an ideal variety for edg- § §

ing. Its huge white caps will in turn frame § }

§ would be a delightful border and I believe an
edging of white sweet Alyssum bordering
‘the Tapis Blanc would complete the

| was covered with mildew, almost to the top }@i(\>
1 of even the tallest varieties. A dusting with]
| | flowers of sulphur, shaken on the leaves and {;
| | around the soil at the base of the plants is af | «(74
| preventative of mildew, which is so disfigur- ' . AX )
| ing, and phlox appears particularly draggled§ Jiy
i and discouraged and forlorn when covered |
with this horrid blight. |
Three attractive semi-dwarf varieties of 4@;
/phlox that are not too tall for edging or {4
_bordering are De Mirbel, a coppery-rose with
§ a clear crimson eye, Helena Vascaresco, a
| pure white with a golden eye and Distinction, | @ |
} white, mauve and blue. With all these ex-] WW
| cellent dwarf phlox, the late blooming Sedum 4}
' Spectabilea, bright rose, Japonicum with |
i white flowers and Sedum Brilliant deep crim- %%
# son flowers, the Incana Veronica, growing
§ but a foot high with its silvery foliage and |)
delicate blue flowers, the graceful dwarf |
grasses, and dwarf hardy ferns, without }
1 € which a garden is unfinished, an additional

| sadvantage of ferns is their supplying an
bast sabundance of feathery green material for our
* bouquets, vases and jars for indoors and out.
'f Do grow, the rather unknown dwarf va-
\{riety of everblooming Bleeding Heart For-
ffmosa, whose flower sprays are not reddish
% but asoft, fine pink. Itisa broad, lacey, lovely
plant and combined with ferns and blue Car-
pathian Harebells, we have a permanent, ex-
quisitely chosen hardy border.

The truly hardy ferns of dwarf form for
growing in our borders are my favorite
4) Maidenhair (Adiantum pedatum), hardy as
ithe proverbial oak and succeeding in full sun,
if the roots are shaded, which of course they
| would be in the border, shaded with the plants
in front of Maidenhair. Next in grace in my
‘opinion is the Wood Fern (Spinulosum), a
¥ precious sort for cutting, to soften and give
grace to stiff-stalked flowers; the Slender
Shield fern (Noveboraceuse), the Crested
‘fern (Cristatum), the Chain fern (Wood-

)) wardia) and the Christmas fern (evergreen
| | aspidium). i
There are other hardy ferns quite as desir- | £4
‘able as these but they are taller and better
when positioned towards the fore-center of |
| the perennial garden or border. For example, ) {“
the splendid Lady fern, growing fully two
feet tall, and the charming Cinnamon fern }
over four feet tall. These ever beautiful ferns | 3;
could and should shield hardy plants produc- /¢//<} })
ing attractive flowers but ugly foliage. I 1 5 Py |
could name many more varieties but of the} 7,4) f
tall ferns I will speak another time. :
_ It is obvious that we have a varied range ) | W../¢
.of border and edging plants both perennial ee
and annual. They fill a great need, because } (4);
until recently we haven’t given really serious }g
thought or attention to our borders, the )4\¥
8 framework of our flower beds and herbaceous 7%
gardens. There may be many shortcomings : j
'in our gardens caused by failures and for }4
# other reasons, but if everything is charmingly | |

ings will hardly be noticeable, except to our
‘J own keenly critical eyes.
With such a wealth of lovely plants for]
i early, mid-season, late Summer and Autumn
} there is no reason why a garden should ever
31 have a “Summer-has-passed-appearance” un-
til snow flies. With the almost unlimited,
material we have to draw upon, there is no
reason why our gardens should not delight
our eyes, month after month. It is the assem-
bling—that is the difficulty, you will say, but
#\) it need not and should not be.
| It is not that we have not wonderful and
beautiful flowers for succession, because we
| have. Indeed, if you please, I think we have§
Sd |, more of the later blooming plants than of the
A | earlier ones. It is purely a matter of group-
: } ing the later ones with early flowering ones, |

very late flowering ones with the later ones.
' It is all so simple, so easy, isn’t it?
To have a truly successful herbaceous

| garden, all faded flowers should be cut away,

the soil kept stirred and powdered, so that the
‘plants that follow in the train of earlier
' bloomers should at least have equal rights,
| which they cannot have if faded flower stalks
| remain to steal their sunshine, to crowd them

and detract from their fresh loveliness. I do

not think this is asking too much of us. Do

you? I know you will agree with me, if you!

| believe as I do, that

“You are nearer to God in a garden than
» anywhere else on earth.”

: When I heard Sir Arthur Pearson quote

| those lines I thought, “oh, how true they are!” | |

In St. Dunstan’s work for the blind, what it is
doing and what it is going to do for these
brave men “who will have eyes everywhere,
!not only two eyes but many eyes,” gardens
and gardening play a very large and import-
ant part, and I am not surprised.
These blind heroes will discover many

hitherto unknown friends in their pargens of Fi»

y nReeese Ee

RT Fen ees ere

5 peace. They will find God’s handiwork is}.
-/946] nature, they will find countless friends among

34) the flowers who will share all their stored
©.) sunshine with them, they will soon learn tog
| grow something out of almost nothing in
y\\_ their gardens, they will learn to grow from
s@s3} tiny “somethings” all the richness of the
flower world, bringing into their “Gardens
Of Peace” joys untold and all the gentle,
j modest and the gorgeous inhabitants, thejj!

' stately, the humble, the shy, the sweet, the#
1) bold and the neighborly.

It is then, dear Gardeners, that the blind
men at St. Dunstan’s will receive the answer
to their summons of the sun, the essential
smile of the earth, the magical harvest off
| their endeavor. They will hold in their hands
_ and hearts the grace and beauty of gracious
nature, finding there the most cheerful, de-
lightful and affectionate companions.

Sir Arthur Pearson said: “All the handi-
| caps, all the incapacities have been thrown

lover-board, they know nothing of patient

iresignation because activity, interest and

lwork have crowded it out.”

| The intelligence of flowers, the obedience
lof the living thing in the heart of a tiny seed,
imakes its appeal to the blind, teaching in na-
ture’s way courage, perserverance and inge-
nuity, bringing glad hours, hope and new life.
Do you know that it was with flowers that a

test was made to determine how many of |

the five senses were not destroyed? When

blinded, shell-torn men responded with “I can | {

ismell, it—it’s a flower.”
Oh, the innocence of it! The glad incre-

idulity of these heroes! Is it not beautiful and
comforting for us to know that thousands of
men at St. Dunstan’s believe ‘They are nearer
to God in a garden than anywhere else on
earth?”

THE BEAUTY OF
THE TAMARICX FAMUICY

ea Ty] OW exclusive the Tamarix family is! How unfriendly

they are towards neighbors! They insist that their
home be quite apart from that of other shrubs, and
when given a generous space in which to develop they
will give us of their great charm and beauty.

What delicate fine shrubs they are! Yes, the
beauty of the different members of the Tamarix family
is lost in the maze of a mixed shrubbery, and their
strength is robbed by the greediness of their neighbors.

To obtain their true individuality they should
be grown only as a family group. Then the proud
Tamarix displays a justifiable disposition to flaunt its
plumy head. When planted near the sea, much of its time is spent

in calmly shaking the salt spray from these very same pink plumes,

and again it is quite content with an inland home on a dry bank. |
The Tamarix family is not a fastidious one as to soil. I cannot

understand why it is not more generally used for hedges. It cer-

tainly is ideal for this purpose and most interesting and satis- 9

factory.
It is so far superior to the tiresome, repetition of the rusty,

tangled, forlorn and ungraceful, charm-lacking Barberry with its —
few meagre berries, but besides this, Barberry has fallen from @

grace because of the many diseases it is accused of sponsoring.
But it is of Odessana I wish to speak.
Odessana waves her pink plumes among the great palms in
India, and Odessana waves her pink plumes in gardens on Long

Island, in seashore gardens in New Hampshire and semi-tropical aa :

gardens just outside of San Francisco. We can readily understand
how adaptable is Odessana.

Odessana is the beauty of the Tamarix family, but like the
other members of the family, she has one blemish. She is like the
peacock; her feet should be hidden. So if you would see Odessana
at her loveliest, place groups of her on the other side of a hedge,
which will serve to hide her unlovely base. In the September
number of OUR GARDEN JOURNAL, you will remember, I
spoke of planting Buddleia variabilis superba to screen her base.

I will tell you now of a garden near Philadelphia enclosed with
a hedge of Japanese privet. The colorful luxuriance of the flowers
within accentuated the dreariness and dullness that existed outside
the garden proper.

The “hedged in” garden seemed like a beautiful, fragrant floral

box planted on a prairie. It was one of those treeless places that fy :
made me wonder why it was ever chosen for a home site. Fortu- ©

nately improvement was in order, but just where to start was the
difficulty.

After days of pondering and studying the situation, I decided
to plant just outside the hedge a great massing of Tamarix—all the
Tamarix family, in fact. I chose the Tamarix because of its light

featheriness, its refinement of color, its pretty habit of swaying in
the wind, its hardiness and its adaptability to almost any kind
of soil.

I planned to work up to more robust, big and dominating
plants and shrubs. Assembling the Tamarix there was a happy
decision I realized later when I saw the pinky plumes waving and
swaying outside the enclosing hedge. Here most of it flowered
all Summer long, but it was in July when Odessana bloomed.
Odessana, I think, is the most graceful, ethereal cloud-like shrub
that ever grew to delight our eyes in mid-Summer, especially when
seen from a distance.

For weeks Odessana smilingly peeped over the hedge pent,
fanning all the flowers there. Odessana formed a pink canopy for
the tall blue spires of the Delphinium family, and Odessana brought
color, height, beauty and a very much needed charm to the box-
like garden.

In the distance we planted evergreens (Douglas Spruce) oe
many very tall pyramidal evergreens. In advance, well in advance,
we started a little tree plantation of them, thousands of them,
some only a foot high, others up to three feet. These little ever-
greens when grown taller and broader will provide a source of
supply for much needed groupings and mass plantings.

Tm 17 —_—

p \|N my usual semi-annual pilgrimage to various gardens to
5)]| see with my own eyes what flowers were abloom. I

wished especially to see the roses, and I hoped to find

D}} many late-blooming worth-while roses and, I did.
i) Wherever I went, in every garden I visited, reconstruc-

|| tion work was in progress, and it became the expected

y pike js|| plaint, “Oh, how I wish you could have seen my garden
"i -98||| before we began changing things about!” I am sure I
prez | would have missed not hearing it if some dear little gar-

=) dener had shown me a garden where the trowel and spade

4) and shovel were not clinking their song of change and

i} improvement, and the many mounds of dirt as mute
evidence of it, of our love for our gardens. I realized that patience
and perseverance are truly of the real gardener’s supreme virtues.

One met heaping wheel-barrows bringing rich loam to ex-
hausted beds, pails of air-slacked lime ornamenting the sides of the
garden paths, wooden half-pecks keeping them company, filled with
bone-meal and other good things the garden needs and finds
palatable and nourishing.

Oh, it was all so interesting, so delightful, so happy, so joyful,
this coaxing the very most out of a garden without asking too
much of it! I saw certain plants too luxuriant, too prosperous.

Gem Why is it the things we don’t want, the things we regret having
§ planted at all, grow with almost spiteful vigor?
: There were far too many big, coarse, spready marigolds and
eae) many whole beds were given over to plants of far too brief a flower-
§ ing time to occupy so much space. Then, in many gardens, there
acme were few if any of the late flowering treasures, things that will not
BESS bloom at all until Autumn, but all this is being corrected, judging
ess, from the upheaval I came upon in almost every garden. One par-
Se ticular observation I wish to tell you about is the great, splendid
4) holes that I saw being dug for evergreen trees and shrubs—not the
4 stingy, too small holes so often provided that crowd the fine balls
of roots and squeeze them to a slow but sure death.

The most amusing sight of all my pilgrimage was where the
mistress of acertain garden was driving—yes, really driving—
three big French Canadian workmen around and around the filled-
in hole of a newly planted, beautiful specimen evergreen. Their
big, heavy soled, flat shoes and heavy tread were certainly making
that tree “solid as a rock”, even without the steadying wires that

were to hold it in position against Winter’s heavy winds and cruel
gales.

Heaps of bulbs were everywhere, meek and humble outwardly,
but laden with surprises and waiting so patiently their turn to be
planted—shining, brown and red skinned things, looking so en-
tirely like a pile of onions, that one had to turn them over in the
hand to think and convince one’s self that great, stunning Darwin
tulips, or the clear chaste blue hyacinth would emerge from the
homely-looking things in the Spring.

I remember sending my tailor, a true but innocent flower lover, —
a box of tulip bulbs. Late the next Spring his young daughter —
wrote me, saying: “Dear Madame: The onions they have shooted
with the big shoot on the top, they is very grand—Marie.” I was
relieved that under the circumstances at least to know they had
not been eaten.

But to return to my garden visiting. I came upon a small, but
extremely charming garden, in which there were several oval rose

ORs
Noe
eo
=)
ts

beds, full of fine plants, buds and opening roses, all the plants splen-

didly healthy and free from mildew and black spot. The soil was |}
like powder, proving faithful and continuous cultivation and #&

mulching.

One bed contained Jonkheer L. Mocks, planted rather closely, :
which is proper with this rose, growing into a high, narrow form
and not wide or spready. The blooms were as perfect as any [i

produced from this rose when grown in a greenhouse.

The canes, some of them were five feet tall, some taller. I R@RY

won’t say how tall they really were, because I’m afraid you

wouldn’t believe me. The foliage was without blight, and what a J

great abundance of roses there were! Jonkheer L. Mock is a mag-

nificnt rose, and when well grown is one of the best, if not the best. : ’ ’

Autumn variety for open gardens.

Another bed was filled with Ophelias. They, too, were very RK
closely planted, not more than twelve or fourteen inches apart, and Aya

had luxuriated in that bed three Summers.

Precious Ophelia, how wonderful you are! You are a rose
not only for the Autumn, but for June, July and August as well,
and if the beds in which you grow are dressed with soot and bone
and a bit of lime every few weeks, your buds will be a saffrony gold

and your petal edges as rosy as the morn. Sweet Ophelia, your

perfume is as delicious as you are beautiful! You have brought
more charm into gardens everywhere than I could ever describe or
tell of. It is you, Ophelia, we give to the blind soldiers, oh,
you are the rose they press to their breasts and treasure until your
perfumed petals fall, when they gather you with groping hands to
place in the letter going home to Mother.

Oh! Dear Gardeners, what would the world be without roses? y A

The third bed in this garden contained Lady Pirries.

| URNING sun and drenching rains,
| Humid days and sultry nights,

| Garden blights they matter not

To beauteous Lady Pirrie.

In his pride the gardener told me with much exultation how
oe nearly all his roses had hung their heavy heads disconsolately dur-
MM ing three days recently. When it rained, all but Lady Pirrie—
¢; William R. Smith (even he rested his perfect blooms on anything
. ‘| conveniently near), Admiral Ward, Augustus Hartman, Ophelia,
8 Jonkheer L. Mock and Sunburst. He had written down the names
of these roses with remarks and little notes, which I thought very
ya clever of him.

All the time he was speaking of his roses he patted and
caressed a bloom here and there, just as he might have patted and
ye caressed a little child. But then, why not? These roses were his
little children! I could see that Lady Pirrie was his favorite. She
certainly is one of mine, with her warmly ruddy, exquisite blooms.

Here was a bed of some fifty or sixty plants that had come
through a Summer of drought with an August of intense heat.
Here was Lady Pirrie opening her salmon rose and copper colored
buds in a beating, tearing rain, dipping her lovely head at intervals
to shed it, then proudly erect again waiting for the too full cup.

I stepped into the bed on a board laid there so I might not sink
down to the “bottom spit”, two feet below. I examined the foliage
over and under for mildew—not a trace. Lady Pirrie roses im-
mune. How satisfactory, how splendid! A rose so beautiful, so
willing and so free from every garden blight. I was so pleased,
because I love this rose—not because she has been awarded a gold
medal by the Royal Horticultural Society, but because she has
20 never failed me. It always has been possible to find many cutting

i, blooms from my collection of Lady Pirries.
If we amateur gardeners would promise ourselves never to
_ plant two or three bushes of any tried-out rose, but to have fewer
] varieties of those whose faithfulness we are not so certain of,
and more of each that are dependable our rose gardens would never
3 look meagre and bloomless at any season. A rose that has been
= tested and found to be good and willing should be given the prefer-
ence over others extravagantly acclaimed, but that have not proved
| satisfactory in your garden or mine. For instance, Lady Pirrie,

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one of the truly delightful roses, in bud, in flower, in foliage and
in form. Yet do we see Lady Pirrie in every rose garden? No &

indeed.
When I visited the Elizabeth Test Gardens in Hartford, Con-

necticut, last season I saw no Lady Pirries there. Robin Hood was ie

gone, so was G. Nabounaud that I had found the year before so

splendid in October and so free from blight. I could not find one fea‘,

perfect bloom in all that garden, and I did not see a single bush }
free from blight. I was terribly disappointed. Augustus Hart-
mann, Edward Mawley, Admiral Ward, all three gorgeous reds,
were practically free from mildew in my own red rose garden, and
so was Ophelia.

But I must tell you of those in the fourth bed. They were
Mrs. Wemyss Quinn, a rose of great beauty, saffron, gold, copper
and crimson—all< hese tones, besides being immune from mildew.
It grows to a rounded lovely foliaged bushy form, and while there
were fewer buds and blooms in this bed than the other three, there
were many for cutting and many maturing buds. Mrs. Wemyss
Quinn is a most distinguished rose.

I will describe the long narrow beds between the four oval
ones, longer than the ovals, with three rows of plants in each. Two
of the beds were all red, but only four varieties, and two were of
Mme. Segond Weber, Mme. Charles Lutaud, Mme. Melanie Sou-
pert, Mrs. Arthur Munt, Mrs. Mackellar, Antoine Rivoire, Old
Gold, Sunburst, Carine and Mme. Abel Chatenay.

Those of us who are familiar with the merits and demerits of

most roses will recognize the fine discrimination shown in these
selections. The four varieties in the red beds were Admiral Ward,

Augustus Hartman, Edward Mawley and Avoca. The last is a vas Y
remarkable rose in that it is sweetly perfumed, has long, graceful ;@*

buds, and blooms early and late, particularly late, for Avoca is at

its best in the Autumn, just as Jonkheer L. Mock is at his best from PRs;

early in September until late October. All these plants had re-
ceived the routine spraying and care. No liquid manure had been

given them, not a drop, but soot water and a top dressing of pul- Bae

verized sheep fertilizer thoroughly cultivated into the soil and flour
of bone was given alternately twice a month. Once a month an
ounce of Sulphate of Iron was worked into each square yard of
soil, and I daresay more roses and more perfect blooms were cut
in this “smallish” garden than in many very much larger ones. All
of them were hybrid tea and tea roses of the rather long, strong
stem type of cutting rose.

I saw Yucca used in a most unusual and novel manner. Cer-
tainly it was a clever gardener who conceived the idea of planting
it on the top of an eight foot high retaining wall of rough stone.

The wall was built evidently for the express purpose of extend-
ing the lawn down to the roadway. There were two flights of
fieldstone steps leading up to paths that came together at the house
entrance. The lawn extended to within thirty inches of the top of
the wall and there on the inside, or lawn side, a deep long bed was
made. Yucca plants were placed about twenty-five inches apart —
all the entire length of the wall at the top following the lines of the
two sets of steps. Directly against the wall Hall’s Honeysuckle
showered over on the outside. The Yuccas were very handsome,
very regular and very formal; a strong, beautiful green line on the
top of the wall, which, when looking up from the outside, seemed
to be fairly growing out of the top of it. It was a most cheerful
and unique wall treatment. I understand fifteen hundred Yuccas
were there. It was indeed a long, high wall, and the Yuccas and
pendulous honeysuckle could be seen for a considerable distance
away, attracting much attention and conjecture as to what that
splendid green line could be.

Yucca is without question a noble and regal plant. I saw it
bordering a great planting of Rhododendrons, and it made a border
even more verdant, more attractive, than the Andromedas. I was
surprised. Here I recognized was a perfect affinity.

Yucca is certainly worthy of more attention than it has yet
received.

I was extremely sorry to see many fine Rhododendron plant-
ings that will have but few blossoms this Summer, simply because

the dead flowers had not been removed and naturally the little life
bud under the hard brown husk could not penetrate it.

I saw much Winter-killed California Privet—miles of it.

Just why California Privet is given the preference over the & ‘%
much more attractive, more graceful and absolutely hardy Ibota jes

and Regell’s privet I cannot understand. Perhaps it is because
these Chinese and Japanese species are not very well known, though

they should be, for even apart from their great hardiness they are }

much easier to manage, easier to prune, clip and train than the
California natives.

I saw miles and miles also of Barberry. Indeed, one might
suppose we had no other choice but these two. Surely it cannot
be that those few withered, forlorn berries are what win the par-
tiality of so many amatur gardeners! I would not dream of
criticising the over-use of Barberry could I not offer you sugges-

tions about shrubs infinitely superior. We have several others that = Se

are perfectly splendid, such as Colutea, which is a wonderful hedge
shrub, as are Aralia Pentaphylla, the radiant Golden Kerria Japo-
nica and Stephanandra, the last two fine and soft as lace and at the
same time as enduring as Barberry.

There are Acacia and Spirea Anthony Waterer which, in the
case of Anthony Waterer, may be kept aflower by the simple

process of cutting away evenly the whole top after each flowering. EY fe

In a very short time it will be in bloom again. I saw a glowing

hedge of Gruss an Teplitz bush roses over four feet high, bloom- 5
ing untiringly with cheerful and unfailing confidence, and a mar- #

velous one of Conrad Meyer roses, which was near seven feet high
and almost as protective as an entanglement of barbed wire, the
scarlet thorns are so fearfully sharp and so amazingly abundant.

But the most perfect hedge I ever have seen was made with —ayt

climbing Dr. Van Fleet rose vines. Its ideal foliage is immune
from every known rose enemy or blight, and its glistening leaves
and long, flexible, coral thorned canes may be trained with but
little trouble. A photograph I was shown of this Van Fleet hedge
in bloom showed thousands of the flesh pink hybrid-tea form roses

in bloom.

In this same garden I saw such a splendid group of towering
Silver Lindens, Canoe birch, Elder and Sorrel trees. What a
strikingly handsome tree the Sorrel is from one year’s end to the
other! These had been in place less than eight years. You see, if
we would all start little tree plantations of our own American ever-
green and deciduous types, we would always have trees for every
purpose. Besides, don’t you think one must have a very special
affection for a tree one has seen develop from a mere seedling, as it
were, into a tall and beautiful “grown up”? Don’t you admire the
narrow, column-like, extremely pointed pyramidal evergreens
growing in angles and flat against broad and narrow wall spaces,
just as one sees them in Italy?

Wonderfully decorative and distinctive they are grown in that
way, a relief from vines and more suitable in many instances.

Do plant a few young trees of the high-arched elm. They may
be quite near the house. They cannot exclude the light just because
of their high arching form. They always recall to mind the lines:

“Oh thou high-arching tree,
Nearer to Heaven than I
Thou seemst to be!”

It is a pretty custom of some countries to plant a tree on each
birthday for each child, and events of particular interest are made
memorable in the same lasting way. It is a custom we, too, might
adopt. Don’t you agree with me?

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"tj KNOW many amateurs have become so greatly discour-

i) aged because of their repeated failures with certain va-
<i} rieties of the large flowered climbing Clematis, that they
se to make any further effort to grow them. Please try just
once more. I will endeavor to be as clearly practical as possible
concerning the requirements and cultural needs of these vines
to which we should be so grateful for the pleasure they give us
when properly grown.

The one reason, and I know it is the real one, for lack of suc-
cess in growing Clematis is that they are planted too deep and
where the drainage was not good. They just can’t go on living
after too deep planting in poorly drained soil. In the culture of
the great-flowered Clematis, there is one point where deepness is
most important and that is in the digging of the holes, which
should be made as wide and as deep as we provide for four year
old climbing roses. Then good drainage should be provided by a
layer, several inches deep, of small stones, broken brick, etc. The
soil should be light and very rich—a loamy soil, well limed. The
proportion of air-slacked lime to be used is a garden shovelful to

a large wheel-barrow load of loam. It must be well mixed with
the soil. A level shovelful of bone flour also should be incor-
porated in a barrow load of limed loam. Now, as to the depth of
planting each vine. They are nearly always pot-grown and so
easily handled. Remove the pot and bit of drainage adhering to
the bottom of the plant, make a hole a little wider and deeper
: than the pot, and in the prepared position, set your plant with the

crown (the top of plant) two inches below the surface of the
garden bed, firm the plant in as solidly all around as you do when
planting rose bushes.

Keep the newly planted Clematis shaded for a week or two
m from the direct rays of the sun. Although they require a great
deal of sun, they do not need it and should not have it directly
after planting. A box lid tilted against a couple of stakes will
answer nicely. As they are tendril vines, they need a little assist-
ance when they first start to climb.

It may surprise you, Amateur Gardeners, to learn that there
are nearly seventy varieties of Great-Flowered Clematis. There
is an amazing diversity of color, size and form of the blooms. The
varieties I name are very wonderful. They all demand the same
treatment, care and pruning, so there cannot be anything about
them to confuse or puzzle you.

Boskoop's “seedling. 52.2505 ose e te oe ee eee ee Lavender
BOATIONA kis lc 5 ab’ aye: ake ee eres eT Rete eN a Are Iecamede Soft old blue
Willeide Myon... 0s... cae ee eer ers reine Bright Carmine

m Jeanne WAIC..... 0.0... cece eee een tees Silver Grey
Bain Queene ec. oso. sincere nee eee Pale Pink—deep rose bars
8 Lady Caroline Neville... 3.74.6 White and Mauve
Me Kiermesinai,:. of... cose eee ee eee eee ere Brilliant Red
M President... 2) 00s Soe ee arene Deep Clear Blue
Madam Baron Veillard? 0: 2 8Noe oo ee Seer Satiny Pink
Duchess of Edinburgh. 2.0... beeen e meee Double White
Marie Van Houtte. (2.200.505 2 se eee ee White and Mauve
12 Perla Reis Ma ened lob Soci ut OlcgG 01. ° > Creamy White

Velvety Red

LS STDETLIT Ue Ae ae Sire ee Purple BN

2 FEETOS EN) ZAU LS Se e ec A White
Ene Gea, A ean er eet cance Aha ible Sky Blue
Betetrer@en Sts JUMET 5 oi 5053 Walia tees 4 White, Gold Center §
oul: EEGSS 05.1 END yg oe een ....Satiny Mauve

Bemttessesde bouchand. 2... $2508 See ee lei sone. Rose &

These varieties are all of the Lanuginosa and Jackmanii
groups. There are many, many more I could name, but I doubt

if my list could be excelled. Their blooms are superb, their vines @
graceful, lacey and when grown with our rambler and climbing BE
roses, they produce their great, wondrous flowers all through the }

Summer and Autumn, after the roses have finished blooming.

The rich soil for the roses will gratify and please the large- |

flowered Clematis. They really revel in it. Heavy soil should

be lightened about the clematis plants with leaf mould and sand. } ay

Perhaps you have noticed I have not mentioned Clematis &
Montana, Montana Grandiflora or Paniculata? They are of an §
entirely different family and should not be grown with our climb- @
ing roses because, for example, Montana Grandiflora would take @
complete possession of everything, smothering and over-running Be

all its neighbors. No, keep Montana and Montana Grandiflora

for your high walls, banks and knolls, also Paniculata, and keep §

the great-flowered Clematis for companioning your climbing roses.
The family of great-flowered Clematis deserve the highest praise
for you may have them in every hue. There is Ramona, a tender,
sweet blue, and Fairy Queen, such a delicate pink, with quaint
deep rose bars; Jeanne d’Arc, a misty grey, to grow with the
climbing hybrid tea, pink Belle Seibrecht, or Marie Van Houtte,
white and mauve, and Mrs. Hope, mauve, to grow with pink

Dorothy Perkins, or rose pink Comtesse de Bouchand and vel- {s

vety purple Jackmanii, side by side, for entwining the unlovely,
twisted base of our Wistaria. You see the great-flowered Cle-
matis do not strangle or suffocate their neighbors as some vines
do. No, they are vines of excellent habits and of an entirely dif-
ferent growth, and all flowering on the new wood which is cut

away the following Spring. Blooming as these Clematis do until
late in the Autumn all the pruning must be done in the Spring,
about the time the hybrid-tea roses are pruned. Cutting back
the growth that has flowered to within two or three eyes is the
proper and correct method of pruning these varieties, notwith-
standing statements to the contrary that I have read.

A trowelful of cow manure, worked into the soil around each
plant, and hosed in, three or four times during the Summer will
insure glorious blooms, some over five inches wide of rare colors,
suffused, barred and edged with pink, mauve, blue, laven-
der, violet and deep purple. I have seen flowers of the variety
Boskoop’s Seedling which by actual measurement were over six
inches across.

There is really no reason why these great-flowered Clematis
should not be grown by every amateur. Bring them through their
first Summer, protect them through the Winter with six inches
of rotted stable manure and you will find them as hardy and as
faithful in their blooming as our poor, forsaken and banished
Crimson Ramblers. Water them in dry weather, cut thousands
of their starry blossoms, lay long strands, yards and yards of
the vine on tables, and hanging from wall water jars and bowls.

Enjoy them, treasure them, and you will succeed in grow-
ing them.

Ve NC Ben:
(UR ssaae gi\
Te NE

NLS,

teeny, AED:

CONSIDER
ANGUS, TEs

AIR and smiling are the lilies, and
there are many who, like myself,
love to live in a garden, in a gar-

den wherein there are lilies, many lilies.

When the pink and white Fairy Lilies
(Zephyranthus) nodded under the lacey
umbrellas of the Maidenhair ferns that
formed the border of my lily garden I felt
there was nothing so perfect anywhere.
When the Madonnas had ceased blooming,
the cut down, yellowing, ripening stalk was
hidden by the bountiful flowering Fairy
Lilies. When the glorious Auratums went
the way of the Madonnas, Auratum’s bit of
ripening stalk was disguised by the Yellow
Day Lilies Flava—whose charming green,
spear-like foliage knows no yellowing stage,
and therefore they are quite desirable as
foliage plants, even though they do not pro-
duce such clear golden flowers.

When the pink Speciosums held sway
in the lily garden, the Fairies were still
abloom under the frail looking but very
hardy Maidenhair ferns. Then the Longi-
florums recalled the Madonnas which they
greatly resemble but have much more sub-

stance and longer trumpets. The Coral

bloomed with the Longiflorums and still

the Fairies in my border flowered on, until the first of my Speci- B
osum Albas were in bud and flower. There were no orange, reds ay
or scarlets you will notice in this lily garden, although there had (eye
been. I removed them; they were too vivid and out of harmony es
with the more delicately tinted ones. It is only by our mistakes

that we gardeners learn, you know.

The Coral lily (Tenuifolium) is the gayest, prettiest thing, §
with foliage quite distinct from all the other varieties. The Aura- Be
tum—Wittel—is so different from the spotted Auratum generally
grown, you would hardly recognize it. There isn’t even the tiniest

§ spot. It is pure, glistening white with a broad gold band. There

wa is Auratum Vittatum, very much spotted, but the spots are a

vivid red as are the half inch bands through the center of each
petal. Auratum Macranthum, another member of the Auratum
family is all gold in appearance, but in reality its petals are pure
white. It is the gold spots and gold ray that make it look all
gold.

I always plant my Auratums nine to ten inches deep. This is
not too deep, and mine did not “disappear” after the first year, but
have re-appeared regularly for a number of years. But I planted
them with great care, giving each bulb a thorough dusting with
flowers of sulphur and packing sharp sand over and under and on

each side of every one; not a little sand, but a great deal, and

when I found an unusually large bulb, I put it an inch or two
deeper than the others. I have been particularly fortunate with
lilies and I attribute my success to the sand I used so freely, and

) which all the enemies of the bulbs thoroughly detest. On the a :
4] surface over each bulb I spread a thick layer of sand as a special (4G, Le

precaution.

I am sure you will agree with me that my way of planting
lily bulbs is not much trouble and when you consider that they
them as permanent members of our garden family you will agree
that the efforts are not wasted.

THE GOLDEN AND WHITE CALLA
The golden Calla Lily if planted early in June will be abloom |

: fa within a few weeks. Each tuber should be given a deep,

: five-inch pot for its very own. You know there are extra deep
) pots just for growing lilies in. A rich simple loam consisting of

bone flour to each pot.
At this stage they should be watered moderately, but when
the plant is in full leaf a great deal of water must be given as

2) the calla is really a water plant. One sees them growing on the

margins of the Lakes in Ireland. Water may stand in the saucers
under the pots with advantage after full leafage is attained. At
| this stage also an inch of pulverized sheep fertilizer and a sprink- |
| ling of Scotch soot should be carefully worked into the surface
* soil. This will assure superb blooms.

: After their blooming season is over and the foliage has turned
) yellow and fallen off, the pots should be laid on their sides and §
| water withheld. Keep them in a frost proof place. They must |
' rest for at least three months when they are ready to bloom again.
| I bloom mine twice a year only.

THE AMARYLLIS

Growing the stately Amaryllis in pots for plunging in the open
| garden is being done more and more by those gardeners who desire
exotic flowers in the out of doors garden as well as under glass.
) A large number of Amaryllis, yellow Calla lilies, Blue Lily of the
Nile and White Lily of the Nile, the Lilium Regale, in fact, all the
» Auratum and all the Speciosum lilies may be grown in pots and
plunged just where you want them for the best possible effect.
Usually it is planned to carry on a brilliant display with these bril-
liant flowers after earlier blooming things have passed.

Place each bulb in a pot but an inch larger in diameter than
the bulb. Any good rich garden loam will answer if a handful of
sharp sand is well mixed with it. Cover only the thick part of the
bulb with soil, leaving the long neck exposed. Use water sparingly

isi 8i D>

BILWIS LLY OF THE NIUE

until active growth begins, and when the plant is in full leaf then,
and only then, must they be always well supplied with water. Put
an inch of pulverized sheep fertilizer on the surface and water
through this. See that the drainage is good.

THE BLUE LILY OF THE NILE

This lily is one of the simplest things in the world to grow.
I always plant five or six roots in a ten inch extra deep pot filled
with rich soil in which a little leaf mould and bone flour have
been mixed.

When the tall stalks with the Mower umbels are showing just
a faint tinge of color, I work an inch of pulverized sheep fertilizer
and a dusting of Scotch soot into the surface soil and water through
it. The soot intensifies the blue of the umbel and the broad fine
strap-like green foliage. Five roots in a ten inch pot make a very
rich arresting display that lasts for two months at least. For
terrace and balustrade, for accentuating paths in the garden and
for filling bare places the Lilies of the Nile are beautifully ac-
commodating.

After their flowering season is over leave the roots in the pot
and store them just as you do the Calla—in a frost-proof place
until next Spring when they can be brought out again to add their
rare charm to our gardens. Allow only the lilies roots to remain
in the pots.

DO YOU
EXHIBIT?

Treva

a4) you think?

—T recall the very first prize I ever won.
No blue ribbon winning horse could possibly
be as important to its owner as my blue rib-
bon basket of ferns, and gold, pink and blue
Columbines was to me. It was a charming
thing, but so modest and so inconspicuous
among the big and splendid exhibits that
surrounded it!

That blue ribbon fired my ambition. I
made plans at once for many entries for the
Autumn show and oh, how I worked, and
how wonderful my garden was that Sum-
mer! What an impetus my one blue ribbon
gave me!

When the Fall show came I was ready
for it. My impatience was almost unbear-
able. I feared a blighting frost. I was hate-

fully stingy and selfish about cutting certain flowers, which in
justification to myself was the first time and the last, when all my
little world was not free to carry away baskets of my blooms.

Afterwards I did not take flower shows so seriously. I ex-
hibited, just as a matter of course. But I must go on and describe
to you that particular exhibit. My greatest treasures were my
Lady Alice Stanley roses and heliotrope. They were in a deep
oval basket. The inner water tin was half filled with sand. I cut
my Stanley roses in several lengths and my heliotrope (Center-
fleur) in two lengths. The stems of the silvery-pink carmine roses
were thrust into the wet sand and held firmly, the tallest in the
center, the others graduating. The short lengths of heliotrope
came next the roses and the longer lengths around the edge ex-
tending over the basket, lengthening the whole effect.

This was to be entered in the table decoration class (center-
piece). When the two attendants carried it into the tent from the
truck, I followed crying. I was so keyed up and excited I could not
keep back the tears, and I walked up and down, up and down past
my exhibit for hours. No one knew it was mine. I had brought
it nearly ten miles and had commenced cutting at daybreak. I
had brought a pail and sprinkling can with me and was ready for
any emergency. Perhaps you know how difficult it is to get a drop
of water at a flower show?

My other exhibits were Jonkheer L. Mock roses with a defined
length of stem. A jar of William R. Smith roses. Low broad
bowls of pink Verbenas and Mme. Cecil Brunner roses (center
piece class) Aconitums (Wilsonii pale blue) and pink Gladioli.
One large basket from the long fresh canes of Dr. Van Fleet, with
the glossy perfect foliage left on, made it a rare basket which
was filled with amber pink (Nearing) Cactus Dahlias.

I won every prize given in the class for my exhibits. That was
some years ago and I shall never forget how weak and almost hys-
terical I was with pleasure and—may I admit it?—pride.

There is a definite reason for telling you about it—it is this.
Every amateur gardener should exhibit at her local flower show.

Every garden club, and they are now legion, should arrange for gm

. Its members to “show” even if it is but a small basket of—well, just

anything pretty. No woman who hopes to exhibit her flowers will =
be a gardener in June and by August tired or bored with it all. No, eS.
the prospect of the Autumn show, or the “Harvest Fair’ will hold oe

her unflagging interest until at least the first heavy frost.

Garden clubs should have flower shows and make them so No}
worth while that unconsciously you will soon be growing only the ma
finest, the loveliest and the rarest of everything in the flower world, Bysi-=
learning the history of this plant and all the members of that one

and so on until you are quite expert and familiar with floriculture.

Your ambitions will soar, you will stop at nothing a woman may J

accomplish. Budding, propagating etc., will soon be as casual
work as your former simple achievements.

Exhibiting will give a zest to competition of the friendliest Bes

sort among garden club members, leading to such delightful inter-

course and pleasant rivalry. I have never found real envy or #

jealousy among women gardeners and I have known women who
in everything else but gardening were never open to conviction.

Women gardeners should always dress attractively when
working, pretty fadeless linen smocks, large graceful garden hats
and tan laced boots of rather high cut. Always wear your pro-
tecting gloves and sometimes pretty, soft, unboned, dainty sun-
bonnets.

Then you may garden in comfort and with the satisfying con-
viction that you are looking charming and quite worthy of a
charming garden.

COLUMBINE

Z| Amid the matted mosses first are seen

Upon the rugged hills, yet scarcely green.
They nod when April’s breezes roughly find

Their scarlet coats, with yellow satin lined.

“<3 ND mocking still, with eager lip

| Their drinking bells the cold rains sip
pee | They drink and mock, while sturdily they
swing

To beautify the trailing gown of Spring,
And form a lovely fillet, red and gold
To make a girdle where the rocks are cold.
And with a scintillating dance they twine
A fringe of early Columbine.

Gabrielle Mulliner

iti ANY years ago I read a legend of a lonely Columbine who
¢} lived in the cleft of a rock and who “tossed” a thousand seed

a ;| and in time a great army of Columbines grew where only
ih ep. i one grew before; but they never crowded; there was always
saa, room for neighborly ferns.

Even as a child I was impressed with this amiable, fair-minded
family of Columbines, so beloved by the humming birds. Later
while at school certain parts of the life of Leonardo da Vinci were
read to my class. “He loved to paint the Acorn and the Colum-
bine.” I heard not another word our art master read. My mind
was groping for the quaint old story of the dear lonely Columbine
growing in the cleft of a rock.

Years and years later I saw the painting “La Colombine” by
Leonardo da Vinci. The Columbine spray in the hand of this
painted lady was so true in form and charm of those we grow to-
day in our modern gardens that ever since the Columbine has been
more to me than just a flower. The dear little native Columbine
has remained impervious to time and change although Leonardo

LA COLOMBINE

da Vinci loved to paint it and the Acorn centuries ago.
The hybrids have come with longer spurs and many hues,

flowers of distinction and grace, but by no great artist in the far §
past have they been painted. The new blue hybrids are almost
exotic in appearance and they are just as blue, and shaded pale |

and gray-blue as the rarely beautiful Dutch Irises that tempt

us in the florists’ windows. There are shades other than blue— a
flesh, rose, mandarin, royal purple, white, gold, and gold with

scarlet.
If you will start the seed in June in flats or in a shaded spot

in the garden, you can in September transplant sturdy, hardy, un- (@

afraid-of-the-Winter young plants (not seedlings) everywhere

you wish to see Columbines growing. A hill-side planting of ‘Y

German Iris and Hybrid Columbines I know of is a joy to behold.

There are no bronze or brown or purple Iris here. The tall |
Pallida Dalmatica, a tender lavender growing nearly four feet &

tall, hundreds of them grew on the highest point. Mme. Chereau,
frilly and feminine (there is no lovelier Iris), white with frills of
blue; Her Majesty, a distinguished bloom of pink; Ingeborg, pro-
ducing great white flowers; Queen of May, rose-mauve; Inno-
cenza, pearly white; La Tendre, lavender and gold; Trautlieb,
rosy pearl; Rembrandt, soft old blue; Miralba, rose, lavender and
pearl; Sapho, white and mauve with Bariensis completing the
varieties, planted in groups unstudied in effect with masses, Lee
and small, of all the Columbines intermingled.

A curtain of blue flowering Periwinkle showers over the low-
est point into the roadside where it is kept sheared. Neither the
Columbine nor the German Iris is capricious. The Iris multi-

plies and spreads while the Columbines self-sow, assuring renewed i 3

beauty year after year.

A group of evergreens were stately guardians above the Iris;
on the hill were hemlocks, feathery and fine.

The Columbine is the Queen of the Spring flowers, and in-
deed few flowers can equal its delicate beauty and grace, and it

blooms for nearly three months in almost any kind of soil. Its We

foliage is exquisite, and when the long sprays have ceased to
bloom and the seed pods are ready to open, save every seed.

Immediately after the seed is gathered it should be sown and
by the Autumn you should have a hundred or a thousand or more
Columbines. The following Spring they will fower. Plant them
closely and if wood ashes are dusted over their crowns, they will
not be molested by their foes.

I plant only the long spurred hybrids. Alba, pure white, is
a good variety to plant in the shrubbery. Californica, orange,
crimson and yellow, is one of the longest spurred hybrids, a splen-
did variety for grouping under Forysthia. Chrysantha, a clear,
pale yellow; Coerulea, a violet, blue and white; Coerulea alba, a
pure white; Delicatissima, as its name suggests, is of a very deli-
cate, satiny-rose color, with its very long spurs blending into
gold; Rocky Mountain Blue, which is a clear blue with a snow-
like corolla, a very fine variety to plant in the shrubbery; Rose
Queen has very long spurs of rose with flushed white center and
long golden anthers. Planted with the delicate Maidenhair family
of ferns and Spanish Iris all of the Columbines except the wild
native red and yellow, which does not harmonize with the soft
blue, rose, pink, lavender or white tones of the long-spurred hy-
brids, will make a planting harmonious and most interesting.

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"Ww HE Delphinium, even though it is indeed
a royal plant of ancient lineage, and
used to praises long, is as easy to grow &
successfully as an annual.

The family is a very large and most repre-
sentative one, and while I know almost all of ds
its members and admire them greatly, it is the
Belladonna hybrids I love the best. Is it any
wonder that these blessed optimists, these
gracious beauties, that bloom from early June i
to harvest time have a hold so firm and so strong |
upon our affections that even the rose may take :
heed? Marvelous Capri, whose flowers are as
blue as the bluest sky, and rare Moerheimi, just i

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that blue sky, and Lamartine, a velvety, cobalt blue, and Semi-
plena blue, so soft and pale with a faint pink blush. And was there
ever, ever such a wondrous blue as J. S. Brunton or such a generous
bloomer. It positively seems as if his flower stalks were grown
over night.

Indeed I believe that Semi-plena and J. S. Brunton produce
more flowers in one Summer than half a dozen other varieties

% together. I have never seen anything like it. You may cut them

for grouping with the first lilies in June; you may cut them in
abundance in mid-Summer to place with your pink Speciosum
lilies, and you may be certain when your late white Speciosum
lilies need the rich blue and pink clouded loveliness of Semi-plena
and J. S. Brunton, they will be there until the very last lily bud
has opened and when the very last of your yellow rose buds are
promising to unfold. Please see that they are companioned with
these sweet and faithful flowers.

Mrs. Thompson, Belladonna Grandiflora, Persimmon and
Nassau also are of the Belladonna hybrids which means they are
all very beautiful and bloom all Summer long. K. T. Caron is
a rather extraordinary variety of Delphinium. When I saw it
in England it was under the name of Gentian Candelabra, a far
more fitting name I think than K. T. Caron because it really has
such great blue arms offering up its flowers, so long and so fine
that it has the appearance of a splendid shrub, so strong and
broad and richly spired, is K. T. Caron. Lize Van Veen is an-
other tall, splendid Delphinium, with an eye so clear and white,
some children called her “Peep-eye.” Queen Wilhelmina is very
tall too, with a bit of rose color over the blue and “Peep-eyes.”
Then there are Amos Perry, Andrew Carnegie, Marie Closon,
Mme. Violet Geslin and Perfection. These are all blue and suf-
fused with mauve.

One of the very newest Delphiniums is Netty. Her flowers
are quite round and very blue, but with a silvery sheen, like a

dusting of silver powder, a most:unusual feature. There is but Bayes
one other Delphinium that I know of that possesses this dis- fexee
tinguishing silver touch and that one is Bleu Tendre, whose long eS ip |
spires are white, suffused with a delicate blue and over all this * S 3
a rare silvery glow. The King of Delphiniums, a searching deep Puy

blue; Beauty of Langport, creamy white with a golden center;

Antigone, blue and lilac; Rev. E. Lascelles, rich blue; Prince 2 i

Henry, reddish purple; Willy Obreen, blue and rose; Progression,
white and gold; Lorenzo de Medici, gray blue; Porcelain Sceptre,
wedgewood blue; dear old familiar deep blue Formosum; Duke
of Connaught, blue and lavender rose; Corry, with its double
flowers of sky blue and glow of crimson are all wonderful.

Then the dwarfs of the family, Zuyder Zee, Chinensis white
and Chinensis blue and Cineraria Caeruleum. These low grow-
ing Delphiniums are indispensable; they are as hardy as an oak.

All the Delphiniums require a very rich, well-drained soil
and while they must have their faded flowers cut away, it is only

when the whole stalk is cut down right to within a few inches

of the ground that new flowering stalks are produced again im-

mediately. With the Belladonna hybrids, the cutting down is — ‘

most essential and if bone flour and a little lime or wood ash
are worked into the soil thoroughly all around the crown (or

clump) you will be astonished how nourished and eager to bloom

again they will be. I find a little Scotch soot dusted over the sur-
face soil is sure death to the Delphinium grub besides giving a
depth and richness of tone to the flowers. Coal ashes heaped
over the crowns for the Winter is a wise precaution too, and I
always allow it to remain or most of it when the “cleaning up”
process is under way in the Spring. Even those who are rather
indifferent to flowers often feel an almost sentimental interest, even
an affection, for Delphiniums. Perhaps it is because most of them
are blue. One of the most impressive garden pictures I have

ever seen was a hedge, a practical hedge it was too, made with

Delphinium Belladonna and pink, great-flowered Clematis grown
in advance of the hedge on slender but strong white lattice rails.
The parterre beds were filled with pink roses of the finer varieties. }
I am sure you will not find it difficult to picture the rare charm §
of such a garden. They can be planted in the Spring or Fall, but
I think September the best time, and preferable to early Spring
planting, because it insures not only a good start, but a far better J
display of blooms the next Summer. They are always beautiful, |
even when grown in poor soil, for they have a happy disposition §
and even thrive in a way on poor nourishment.

But to have them give us their best, they should be given a
very rich, well drained soil, and if kept well watered and well By
fed you will marvel at the beauty of their blooms, many of them Bas
luminous. mn

Before planting make certain that you know the average }
heighth of the various varieties to avoid what I have so frequently
* seen done, the planting and hiding of the dwarf members of the
| family among the taller ones. Young plants should be planted
about eight inches apart, and large clumps about two feet apart.
Do not fail to provide re-assuring staking for the proper sup-
porting of your Delphiniums. This should be done before they
attain their full height. By all means avoid “bunching,” and
this is best avoided by providing three slim stakes pointing out-
ward from the base of the plant.

When the plants are two or three years old, they produce
their most magnificent blooms. Frequently one plant will mod-
estly show us thirty or forty noble sheafs of flowers.

years, they seem to become anemic, losing much of their strength.
In late September or October they should be taken up. Throw Bec
away the center of the clump, and divide and replant the remain- Bry.
ing outer portion. This in addition to giving new strength to
| the plant greatly increases our collection of Delphiniums.

DELPHINIUM

Pp RAY, who stands so straight and tall?
| *Tis you, Delphinium!

A perfect foil for my garden wall,
Your graceful spires of Heaven’s blue—
They only could belong to you.

— a
a ee y =

Your wind swayed bells in chorus chime
A summons to the bees to dine.

The bees, the garden epicures,

Acclaim the sweetness of your lures,
Delphinium!

an a

Ss es

Rei VERY letter, “Amateur Gardeners,” will be answered—
~aer{ @] Every garden need, every garden problem that confronts
RS), | you, puzzles you or worries you, write about it and if I
«aj cannot help you solve it, I will see to it that those who
~ Specialize in that particular problem, need or worry of
yours willdoso— gs

TO PREVENT EREMURI ROT

Q. Among my pale blue Delphiniums I planted ten large
Eremuri roots, the great pink flower spears were superb. After
the faded spikes were cut away a large hole remained, and it filled
with rain water and caused them to rot; what can I do to prevent
this?

A. I always insert a cork in the round opening after the stalk
has ripened. This is an easy and efficient way to prevent the stalk
filling with moisture.

BORDERS FOR TRITOMAS

Q. Last summer I planted a great many Tritomas and they
were the finest flowers in my garden. Will you advise me of some-
thing to border them, preferably a low growing plant that blooms
continuously ?

A. The California Poppy would border the Tritomas charm-
ingly, particularly if you used several varieties such as Golden
West, Mandorin, Mikado, Californica and Crocea. These five va-
rieties cover the whole range of tints of the Tritoma and as they
self-sow and bloom continuously they would be a happy choice.

A BACKGROUND SHRUB

Q. My herbaceous garden is quite deep at certain points and
I could have a few shrubs in the background if I knew of any that
were very tall, open and airy in habit.

A. In this number of OUR GARDEN JOURNAL a shrub
Tamarix Odessana is described which is peculiarly adapted for
planting in the background of your herbaceous garden. It is so
feathery and fine, so tall and airy, no shrub could be better for
your purpose.

GREEN FOLIAGE AND FERNS

Q. I would like to border my lily bed with something that
has a good graceful foliage that remains green and attractive after
the flowers have gone. Also I am anxious to know the name of a
fern about a foot high that will thrive in the sun to fill in among
the lilies.

A. The foliage of the Yellow Day Lily, Thunbergii, will be
green and sightly until freezing weather. An excellent fern to
plant with the lilies is Aspidium Acrostichoides (Christmas Fern).
Plant with the crown just showing on the surface of the bed.

COMPLETE FERTILIZER FOR SWEET PEAS

Q. Can you let me know if there is a complete manure for
sweet peas similar to Tonks manure?

A. I assume you mean a chemical manure. The following
I know to be excellent for sweet peas and will improve growth
as well as inducing splendid blooms:

5 parts of superphosphate

3 parts of Sulphate of Potash

1 part Sulphate of Ammonia

1 part of Nitrate of Soda

Use about three (3) ounces to the square yard on good soil,
and about six (6) ounces to the square yard on poor soil.

Shan a

\ LL subscribers are requested to contribute short articles to
=} Our Garden Forum relative to their garden experiences,
successes and difficulties, and matters of interest pertaining
to unusual garden conditions, the whims of flowers, etc.

A PROTEST AGAINST THE HORTICULTURAL IMPORT
PROHIBITION

A recent ruling of the Federal Horticultural Board at Wash-
ington prohibits, after June 1, 1919, the importation of all plants
and bulbs in which the owner of every flower garden is interested,
excepting the following few items: Lily bulbs, Lily of the Valley,
Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus and Crocus—absolutely nothing else
in the line of bulbs may come in from any foreign country.

Fruit-tree stocks, seedlings, cuttings and scions of fruit trees
we may import, and Manetti, Multiflora and Rugosa Rose stocks
for budding or grafting but absolutely nothing else in the way of
plants

Do you realize how radical and far-reaching this embargo is,
and how seriously it will affect the beauty of our gardens?

There will be no Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Spireas, Araucar-
ias, Dracaenas or Boxwoods. Orchids will be only a memory,
and there will be missing from our gardens, hundreds of other
varieties of plants and flowers for which, heretofore, we have de-
pended upon European sources.

Many of these will never be produced in this country and
those that after years of preparation may be developed here, will
necessarily have to be sold at a price which will make them almost
prohibitive.

One of the peculiar points in this ruling which I am unable
to harmonize with the Board’s effort to prevent the risk of import-
ing dangerous pests, is the fact that they consider it safe to import
manetti, Multiflora and Rugosa Roses for budding and grafting
purposes but do not consider it safe to let these same roses come
in with named varieties (such as Ophelia, Radiance or other sorts)
grafted or budded upon them

The root of the Manetti, the Multiflora or the Rugosa remains
the same, but the top will be that of the named variety, i. e.,
Ophelia, Radiance or whatever the variety may be and it is ab-
solutely impossible for an insect to be imported on the one and
not on the other, so, why should these rose-stocks be admitted
when a very few growers who graft or bud roses are interested
in them and the named varieties, in which practically everyone
who grows plants is interested, be excluded?

Furthermore, if it is safe to import Lily, Lily of the Valley,
Hyacinth, Tulip, Narcissus or Crocus bulbs, pestiferious possi-
bilities affect the hundreds of other kinds that justifies the Board
in saying “You are not to bring in a Dahlia, Tuberous-rooted Be-
gonia, Gloxinia, Gladiolus, Spanish Iris, Oxalis, Scilla, Snowdrop,
Crown Imperial or other equally harmless bulbs?

Whether this action is in accordance with the law as enacted
by Congress which created the power of the Board I do not feel
competent to pass upon, but I am satisfied, however, and confident
that it was not intended as the spirit of this Act, that the policies
and destinies of the entire Horticultural World should be placed in
the hands of five (5) members of the Department of Agriculture.

Your Congressman has the means of finding this out, and if
you will appeal to him for aid in the matter, I am certain that he
will investigate and see to it that such power, if it exists, is changed
so that this unjust and sweeping ruling may be modified.

I ask every subscriber to OUR GARDEN JOURNAL to per-
sonally write to the Secretary of Agriculture at Washington, as
well as to her Congressman protesting against this unreasonable
ruling and requesting that it be modified.

$1 LUA Slide

soho ee

THE MARY FRANCES GARDEN BOOK.
By Jane Eayre Fryer.

YOU desire your children to take an interest in garden-
‘““ ing and they have not shown a satisfying amount of en-
2uaeie8 thusiasm, now is your opportunity, dear parents, to sow
the seed of the true gardener by introducing them to the “Mary
Frances Garden Book.” It is so gayly illustrated, the text so
wisely sugar-coated, that children will, in reading it, absorb so
great an amount of garden medicine that they will never recover
from it, never!

Any child who reads this book or has it read to them, from
beginning to end, is a gardener for life, and the bleak, cold Spring
months will no longer be endured with but little patience. A
set of really good garden tools, a generous number of packets of
seed and some bulbs will help the time to pass.

I saw the effect of this garden book for children when two
little girls were so wrought up over my daily reading of a few
pages to them that then and there a little garden was made with
quick growing annuals, and there these children spent many
happy hours. Their plans for a next-Summer garden were made

with surprising intelligence and good judgment. Gardening
means for children straight backs, fewer rounded shoulders, and
a wholesome, beautiful interest.

The “Mary Frances Garden Book” will delight every child-
ish heart and mind.

The pictures are remarkably clear and true, covering a wide
range of flowers and vegetables that children may grow success-
fully. Many lovable and humorous characters are introduced. It
reads just like a fairy story, the kind of story all children love.
The “Mary Frances Garden Book” is published by the John C.

Winston Company, of Philadelphia.

8NOTES#

German Iris clumps may be divided and
replanted immediately after flowering.

Please use Phosphate of Iron once a
month, an ounce to the square yard, it should
be well raked into the soil about the rose
bushes.

Tests made in Europe have led experts
to decide that ivy benefits rather than injures
stone walls, on which it grows by drawing
excess moisture from them.

Do not cut off all the foliage when prun-
ing a perennial. Enough leaves should remain
to furnish sufficient air cells for the rest of the
plant, otherwise it will not flourish.

WATCH FOR THESE TWO PLANT
ENEMIES

Two plant enemies of a very serious
nature have gotten into this country from
Europe. They are the European corn borer
and the European potato wart disease. At
present both apparently are confined to a
comparatively limited territory, but every
precaution and the utmost care will be neces-
sary to prevent their spread. Unless con-
trolled they may become the most destructive
enemies of two of America’s greatest food
crops. The corn borer now is known to exist
only in Massachusetts and New York. It

(Continued on page 86)

BERTRAND H. FARR

Wyomissing Nurseries Company
Hardy Plant Specialties For Spring Planting

Wyomissing offers a selection of plants second to none for every sort of garden.
The collection is catholic and comprehensive. To mention all of them here would
be impossible, but here are a few which should be on your list.

Iris and Peonies

In my collection are many examples of rare and beautiful Iris; novelties of
my own raising for which I was awarded the Panama-Pacific Gold Medal.

500 varieties of Peonies— comprising the most complete collection of
herbaceous and tree specimens in the world.

New Japanese and Asiatic Shrubs

Dwarf Evergreens—Required and essential to add picturesqueness to the
formal garden, lawn groups and rock gardens. I have many rare and unique
specimens.

Lilacs, Philadelphus, and Deutzias—Admitting no rivals my collection stands
on its own merits and embraces all of Lemoine’s new creations.

A complete list of my collection of hardy plants and shrubs will be found in
the Sixth Edition (issue of 1918) of

Farr’s Hardy Plant Specialties

112 pages of text, 30 full page illustrations. Most gardeners have a copy, but
if you have not received it, or if it has been mislaid, a duplicate will be sent
promptly on request.

BERTRAND H.FARR
WYOMISSING NURSERIES COMPANY

WYOMISSING, PENNSYLVANIA

104 Garfield Avenue, Wyomissing, Penna.

Would you like us to help you plan your garden? I have found it necessary
to form a special department in charge of a skilled landscape designer and plants-
man. I will be glad to assist you in any way desirable with off-hand suggestions ;
or by the preparation of detailed plans for which a charge will be made.

aNOTES#

(Continued from page 84)

feeds on all parts of the corn plant and has
an appetite for many garden and ornamental
plants. Its presence is detected by broken
tassels and with sawdust-like material at the
breaks, and by holes in the stalk surrounded
with the same sawdust-like material. The
potato wart disease is now confined to a part
of Pennsylvania. This disease is noticeable
at harvest time, and is characterized by warty,
spongy, cauliflower-like growths on the un-
derground portions of the plant. Write to the
U. S. Department of Agriculture, Washing-
ton, D. C., for information on these plant
enemies, and watch for them in new places.

Lilacs and other shrubs which make their
buds one season for the following season’s
blossoms, should be pruned within a month
after they have ceased blooming. This will
induce fine blossoms.

To have large blossoms of Hollyhocks
late in the season, cut out all the flower buds
for the first few weeks. This will induce all
the strength to go into the plant and the later
flowers.

To insure a succession of gladiolus flow-
ers, plant the bulbs every two weeks until
August First. After that time it will be use-
less to plant them as an early frost will kill
the flowers before they have an opportunity
to mature.

f (| i Ta
atl ly cle

i SN
: ee my 5

When It ees D hie
Greenhouses

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1170 Broadway 201 Devonshire St.

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VISIT ASK FOR GARDEN’
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receive intelligent and careful service. NOW READY

STUMPP & WALTER CO.

RUTHERFORD .- NEW JERSEY 30 BARCLAY STREET, NEW YORK CITY

a => SS Sa > <

Garden Gateway on the Estate ot Altred I. DuPont Esq., Roslyn, L. I., designed
by Carrere & Hastings, executed and erected by J. W. FISKE IRON WORKS.

HE above is one of a number of gates furnished for this
Estate.

We make a specialty of Garden Embellishments, and shall

be pleased to mail you catalog upon request.

J. W. FISKE [IRON WORKS

West Broadway & Park Place
New York City

Established 1858.

Archways, Tables, Wire Trellises, |

Arbors, Weather Vanes Iron and Wire |
— Sun Dials, Road & Walk Boxes, Railing, |
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Chairs, — - Fountain Jets, and Back Stops a

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aie aN NG acai

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For Material f. o. b. Factory
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It is the first time a strictly high grade house Materials are all cut and fitted, ready for
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It is a decided departure made possible by our with each house. Can ship same day order is

manufacturing them in large quantities because of | received.
being content with a very low margin of profit.

| Send for further particulars
BUILDERS OF GREENHOUSES AND CONSERvATORIES
Sales Offices:

Irvington, N. Y. New York Chicago Philadelphia
Boston Cleveland Toronto Montreal
Factories:

Irvington, N. Y. Des Plaines, IIl. St. Catharines, Canada.

: $1865

3 Pkgs., 50 Cents.

1. As big as a peony. Lasts a week
in water; grows vigorously. Blooms
profusely. A new hybrid developed
by Mr. Schling.

2. A wonderful tulip-shaped poppy in
a glorious sun-kissed yellow.

3. The Wild French Poppy, about
which our soldiers tel] such tales; in
their flaming color drifts along the
edges and through the grain fields.
Seeds very scarce. Supply limited.

SUTTON’S SEEDS

Regardless of whether it is flower or
vegetable seeds, the big thing, after all,
about Sutton’s Seeds, is the absolute ie
pendence you can put in them.

Three packages, one of each, of
these 3 wonderful Poppies, 50 cents
postpaid.

Send for Our Garden Seed Book of
useful information.

Schlings Seeds
MAX SCHLING, Inc.
22 West 59th Street, New York

S
The sherman "luke ‘Cow Pacthc Conse Agent SONS ANNAN ANIA)

SEND FOR OUR VEGETABLE AND FLOWER
SEED CATALOG

Seulerdou,

Royal Seed Establishment Reading, Ez Establishment Reading, England

Modern Willow
Minnet Willow is a modern wicker turniture for the modern interior.
Skillfully woven of fine French willow, reinforced as sturdily as good
wooden furniture. Minnet Willow finds a ready place in the best type
of country residences, smart city apartments and clubs. An infinite variety
of decorative schemes are suggested by the ultra modern tints and the
rich, luxurious cretonnes.
i

You are invited to inspect the new Minnet designs for inside the home
use. Shipments can be made immediately, or deferred at your convenience.

Illustrated Catalogue on request.

Minnet & Co.

MANUFACTURERS of HIGH GRADE WILLOW FURNITURE
365 Lexington Avenue New York City

BETWEEN FORTIETH AND FORTY FIRST STREETS ~ .

SSS SSS ee SSS SSS

FINER LAWNS AND BETTER GARDENS

he ate noticeably more handsome, flowers more profuse,

gardens more productive, where Cornell Irrigation Systems are

installed.

These Overhead, Underground or Portable Systems, equipped

with patented, adjustable Rain Cloud Nozzles, give you control

of your “rainfall.”

Adapted for any area; installed at any time, without injury

to lawn or garden; economical, simple, efficient. Descriptive booklet

free on request.

W. G. CORNELL COMPANY

ENGINEERS AND CONTRACTORS
Plumbing, Heating, Lighting

41 East 17th Street

New York City

Branch Offices in the Larger Cuttes

G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS
ANNOUNCE
THE PUBLICATION OF
ON UNCLE SAM’S WATER WAGON
BY
HELEN WATKEYS MOORE

This new and practical book tells you how to make at home

practically any beverage obtainable at soda fountains. It includes:

Milk and Malted Milk
Ginger and Ginger Ale

Fruit Punches
Sundaes

Lemon and Lime Tea

Orange & Pineapple Coffee

Strawberry & Raspberry Cocoa

Grape Juice Chocolate
Egg drinks,

Ice Cream and Phosphate drinks

Sent post paid for $1.50
G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS
2 West 45th Street
New York City

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GARDEN AND HOME LOVERS.

Let us see to it that all we possess in art
and beauty is treasured as never before.

Have a series of photographs taken now of
your house and garden. They will be something
that will always be a source of pleasure in years
to come, not only to possess yourself, but to pass

on to your far distant friends.

PICTURES THAT HAVE ATMOSPHERE
AND CHARM

MATTIE EDWARDS HEWITT

Photographer of American Homes and Gardens

563 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK.
Telephone 440 Vanderbilt

APPOINTMENTS SHOULD BE MADE IN ADVANCE

(OFFICIAL PHOTOGRAPHER OF OUR GARDEN JOURNAL.)

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OWARD

GARDEN ORNAMENTS OLD &oNEW

HOWARI

OVNTAINS

BENCHES fdts
BirD BATHS DIALS
IN MARBLE STONE
TERRACOTTA &
LEAD, WE ALSO
DESIGN TERRACES
ENTRANCES ETC.
CONSVLTATION BY
APPOINTMENT AT

RESIDENCE
CATALOGVE SO?

HOWARD STIVDIOS
NEW YORK-7 W.47 ST.

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hone Br ryant 4

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GREEN ELOWISE SimOlr 2@ WATE II Y7:

HIS company has been building V-Bar Greenhouses for many years
on the best known estates in this country, and its list of clients
is in itself an indorsement of the most substantial sort and a guarantee of

absolute dependability.

Photographs and plans shown upon request.

FLOWERS IN VERSE

Gabrielle Mulliner
A delightful gift book of verses

on various flowers,

736 — Casserole dish of transparent
Pyrex ovenware complete with Sheffield
holder 744 in. dia. two pints, at $5.00

TO-DAY

To-day is somebody's wed-
ding day, somebody’s birthday,
somebody’s anniversary, and at
Ovington’s you will find hun-
dreds of distinctive remembran-
ces at prices unusually mod-
erate —beginning at $2.50.

OVINGTON’S

“The Gift Shop of 5th Ave.”
312-314 5th AVE. NEW YORK

beautifully bound
and _ illustrated.

PRICE $2.50

PUTNAM’S
Two West Forty Fifth Street
New York

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mvaiyR. H. MICHAELYAN

#2) OF NINE EAST THIRTY SEVENTH STREET
HAS JUST ADDED TO HIS ALREADY RARE COLLECTION
SOME EXTREMELY BEAUTIFUL RUGS SUITABLE FOR
COUNTRY HOUSES. AMONG THEM ARE MANY UN-
USUAL EXAMPLES OF CHINESE RUGS IN THE APRICOT,
PEACH BLOW AND HAWTHORNE BLUE SHADES. ALSO
A VARIED COLLECTION OF SEMINOLE RUGS FOR PIAZ-

ZAS, SUN PARLORS, LOGGIAS ETC.

A. Nee

24 WEST 59th STREET NEW YORK
Adjoining Plaza Hotel

TROUSSEAUX LAYETTES of DELICATE
| MATERIALS

EXCLUSIVELY HANDWORK
| OF

es otwear [a shions

[Economy in [jigh ()uality
JUOLATER

415 Fifth Avenue
New York

DINING ROOM EXECUTED FOR LEWIS L. CLARKE, Esc.
BY
Ish J& ISOHlEBIR &4 CO;

FACTORY PARIS
1am TO 19™ ST. AVE.C 18 FAUBS
STUDIOS POISSONNIERE

18™ ST. NEAR AVE.C

DECORATORS AND ARCHITECTURAL
FURNISHERS WOODWORKERS

4S Ea0l JOE SA:

FARR’S DUTCH BULBS

YACINTH, Tulip and Narcissus bulbs are

unusually scarce this year; I consider myself
singularly fortunate in obtaining a quantity which
normally should be sufficient to replenish the stocks
of my regular customers. But please remember that |
while the quantity I have ordered should supply those |

is ready for mailing and will be sent to my regular |
customers. If you do not receive one will you kindly |
notify me, so that the error may be corrected?

Tee H.FARR |
WYOMISSING NURSERIES: COMPANY

i
\
WYOMISSING, PENNSYLVANIA (
G5 (
104 Garfield Ave. Wyomissing, Penna. |

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ALEX. H. TURNER & CG

69, SOUTH AUDLEY STREET, W. 1; LONDON.

A PERFECT ELDORADO :

for a

WEALTHY MAN.

Under 50 miles trom London, and in a very beautiful country including a
LAVISHLY AND SUMPTUOUSLY FITTED AND APPOINTED RESIDENCE |
with
PERFECT HEATING and LIGHTING.

| 600 ft. up, with lovely views.

Noble galleried lounge hall, fine billiard room, spacious reception rooms, exquiste bed and
dressing rooms, with numerous luxurious bathrooms.

| CHOICE GARDENS AND GROUNDS, GLASSHOUSES, STABLING, GARAGE,
| COTTAGES, WOODS.

RICH FARM WITH PEDIGREE STOCK.
PERFECT FARMBUILDINGS, CAPITAL FARMHOUSE, COTTAGES, Etc.
In all about

200 ACRES.

| For Sale, all as a going concern, including the costly and magnificent contents of the
residence, gardens and cottages. Immediate possession.

A GRAND OPPORTUNITY.
Particulars ot ALEX. H. TURNER & Co., 69 South Audley Street, W. 1, London.

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CHARLES of LONDON

FLO Ep Eel iee AW AE INGOSE
NEW YORK

OBJECTS ORART 2 « TAPESTRIES
ENGLISH PERIOD FURNITURE: OLD ENGLISH INTERIORS

LONDON 25-29 Brook Street W.

Ol
Stalian

CHAIRS
TABLES
MIRRORS
FRAMES
ANDIRONS
ERC

Ol
Spanish

BROCADES
VELVETS
CARVINGS
CHAIRS
IVORIES
EG

Antique, Venetian Bureau, XVIII Century

Decorated with landscape scenes in natural colors.

Height, 8 ft. 4 in. Width, 3 ft. 6% in. Depth, x ft. 11 in.

Nicholas ‘Martin,

IMPORTER OF

ANTIQUES

540 MADISON AVENUE, NEW YORK

at 55th Street

DREICER &C°
Lea rls

Parl Fq ocklaces

Jewels of
Unsurpassed Design

FIFTH AVENUE at FORTY-SIXTH |

THE COLLECTION OF ANTIQUE ENGLISH FURNITURE

PARK / AVENUE AT 572 STREET |
New York

THE HAYDEN COMPANY

HAS IMPORTED FROM ENGLAND
MANY BEAUTIFUL GARDEN ORNAMENTS
MADE IN LEAD
BY THE BROMSGROVE GUILD.

GARDEN SCULPTURE IN LEAD
|
|

AND REPRODUCTIONS |
AT THE HAYDEN GALLERIES
|

IS VERY INTERESTING AND COMPREHENSIVE. : | |

The Beautiful Flowers In Your Garden

can give you no greater pleasure than the satisfaction you enjoy in know-
ing that your home is free from one of the greatest menaces to health that
assails modern life, and none is more inimical or fatal— dust. Your home
can only be free from dust by the use of the vacuum cleaner —a cleaner,
wandlike in the magic of its operation !

Few of us stop to think of it as we watch dust motes eddying in a
slanting sunbeam, or in the clouds raised by the assaulting broom, but in
each particle dwells myriads of malignant microbes ready for a breeding
ground in the human organism, which will be found wherever the mem-
brane upon which it lodges is fertile. The prophylactic advantages of
cleansing without dust are patent. Our grand-mothers would not have
thought Saturday’s cleaning possible without the assistance of the broom
and dust cloth. It required the segregation of large numbers of people
under one roof and the ingenunity of modern times to create the means
by vacuum cleaning. At first, though recognized as efficient, it was some-
thing of a rite that required much special machinery to perform. ‘The
needs for something more feasible have been met by a vacuum cleaner of
American manufacture, its operation is so simple, it is like wafting a magic
wand. Sanitary, simple, sensible and labor saving, it is adaptable to any
house or apartment, and no house or apartment is really a home that is not
equipped with American made radiators, heating boilers that are ideal, and
the wand vacuum cleaners. This combination insures with a minimum of
effort and cost, an absolute freedom from dust and the perfect cleanliness

obtainable only by the vacuum wand method.

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CTIONS PRESERVATION
PA 16066

Park Drive

he Bookkeeper process. —
gnesium Oxide
tember 2012

Deacidified using ft!
Neutralizing agent:

Ma
ER IN COLLE!
Cranberry Township,

411 Thomson
(724) 779-2111

Preservation Technologies

Treatment Date: Sep’

A WORLD LEAD

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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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