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►
Lr
THK OIFT OF
Elizabeth R.Dean
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V^^v c'^
')
r
/i ' / ^ 1.^. 4
^iU<l't
<«.
1
OUTRE-MER,
PILGRIMAGE BEYOND THE SEA
BY
HENRY WADSWORTH LONGrELLOW.
I hart puMd many UadM aod many* 7IM and eontrata, and eharebad manj«
fttlla atraang* plaeaa, and bave ben in aaayt a folia ftfia lipnoaiablt eompaaja.
Mow I am eomen boma to reite. And tbaa reeordjnfa tba tyma paaMd* 1 bava ful-
fiUad tbaie Uqmfaa and putta bam wiytan in tbia boka, u it woulda coma into my
mynda.— SSr John MaundtPilU,
THIRD EDITION.
BOSTON:
WILLIAM D. TICKNOR & CO.
184 8.
%2g
&4t
Entered according to Act of Congress^ in tlie year 1846| by
H. W. LOMOFBLLOW,
in the Clerk*a Office of the Dlitrict Court of the District of Manachueetu.
CJlMBRIOOEi
RBRSOTTPBD Ain> PKINTBD BT
METCALF AND COMPANY,
PBINTBBS TO JHB amVBRBITT.
CONTENTS.
%
PAAB
The Epistlx Dedicatort 7
The Pilgrim of Ovtre-Mer 9
FRANCE.
The Norman Diligence 15
The Golden Lion Inn 23
Martin Franc and the Monk of St. Anthont . . 29
The Village of Avteuil 50
Jacqueline 63
The Sexagenarian . . , 73
Perx la Chaise 81
The Valley of the Loire 95
The Trovv^res ' 110
The Baptism of Fire 127
Co«-a-l*Ane 138
The Not art of P£rigueux 150
SPAIN.
The Journet into Spain 165
Spain 179
VI CONTENTS.
A Tailor's Drawer 187
Ahcibitt Spanish Ballads 901
Thr Villaos of El Pardillo . ^ 296
The Devotional Poetry of Spair 943
The Pilgrim's Brbviart 973
ITALY.
The Jourrbt into Italt 305
Rome in Midsummer 319
The Village of La Riccia 349
NOTE-BOOK.
Note-book 363
The Pilgrim's Salutation 370
Colophon 373
THE
EPISTLE DEDICATORY,
The cheerful breeze sets fair ; we fill our sail.
And scud before it. When the critic starts,
And angrily unties his bags of wind.
Then we lay to, and let the blast go by.
HVRDIS.
Worthy ^d' gentle Reader,
I dedicate this little book to thee with many
fears and misgivings of heart. Being a stranger
to thee, and having never administered to thy
wants nor to thy pleasures, I can ask nothing
at thy hands, saving the common courtesies of
life. Perchance, too, what I have written will
be little to thy taste ; — for it is little in accord-
ance with the stirring spirit of the present age.
If so, I crave thy forbearance for having thought
that even the busiest mmd might not be a stranger
to those moments of repose, when the clock of
time clicks drowsily behind the door, and trifles
become the amusement of the wise and great.
Besides, what perils await the adventurous au-
8 THE EPISTLE DEDICATORY.
thor who launches forth into the uncertain current
of public favor in so frail a bark as this ! The
very rocking of the tide may overset him ; or
peradventure some freebooting critic, prowling
about the great ocean of letters, may descry his
strange colors, hail him through a gray goose-
quill, and perhaps sink him without more ado.
Indeed, the success of an unknown author is as
uncertain as the wind. ^' When a book is first
to appear in the world," says a celebrated French
writer, ^' one knows not whom to consult to learn
its destiny. The stars preside not mer its na-
tivity. Their influences have no operation on
it ; and the most confident astrologers dare not
foretell the diverse risks of fortune it-must run."
It is firom such considerations, worthy reader,
that I would fain bespeak thy friendly offices at
the outset. But, in asking these, I would not
forestall thy good opinion too far, lest in the
sequel I should disappoint thy kind wishes. I
ask only a welcome and God-speed ; hoping, that,
when thou hast read these ps^es, thou wilt say
to me, in the words of Nick Bottom, the weaver,
" I shall desire you of more acquaintance, good
Master Cobweb."
Very sincerely tlune.
The Author.
THE
PILGRIM OF OUTRE-MER.
I am a Palmer, as ye se,
Whiche of my lyfe muche part have spent
In many a fayre and farre cuntrie.
As pilgrims do of good intent.
Thk Foi7e Ps.
<< LrsTENTTH, je godely gentylmen, and all
that ben hereyn ! " I am a pilgrim benighted
on my way, and crave a shelter till the storm is
over, and a seat by the fireside in this honorable
company. As a stranger I claim this courtesy
at your hands; and will repay your hospitable
welcome with tales of the countries I have passed
through m my pilgrimage.
This is a custom of the olden time. In the
days of chivalry and romance, every baron bold,
perched aloof in his feudal castle, welcomed the
stranger to his halls, and listened with delight
to the pilgrim's tale and the song of the trou-
badour. Both pilgrim and troubadour had their
tales of wonder from a distant land, embellished
10 THE PILGRIM OF OUTRE-MER.
with the magic of Oriental exaggeration. Their
salutation was,
** Lordyng lysnith to my tale,
That is meryer than the nightingale."
The soft luxuriance of the Eastern clime bloomed
in the song of the bard ; and the wDd and ro-
mantic tales of regions so far off as to be re-
garded as almost a fairy land were well suited
to the childish credulity of an age when what is
now called the Old World was in its childhood.
Those times have passed away. The world has
grown wiser and less credulous ; and the tales
which then delighted delight no longer. But man
has not changed his nature. He still retains the
same curiosity, the same love of novelty, the
same fondness for romance and tales by the
chimney-comer, and the same desire of wearing
out the rainy day and the long winter evening
with the illusioiis of fancy and the fairy sketches
of the poet's imagination. It is as true now as
ever, that
" Off talys, and tryfulles, many man tellys ;
Same byn trew, and same byn ellis ;
A man may dryfe forthe the day that long tyme dwellis
Wyth harpyng, and pipyng, and other mery spellis,
Wyth gle, and wyth game."
The Pays d'Outre-Mer, or the Land beyond
THB PILGRIM OF OUTflB*MER. 11
the Sea, is a name by which the piigrims and
crusaders of old usually designated the Holy
Land* I> too, in a certain sense, have been a
pilgrim of Outre-Mer; for to my youthful im-
agination the Old World was a kind of Holy
Land, lying afar off beyond the blue horizon
of the ocean ; and when its shores first rose upon
my sight, looming through the hazy atmosphere
of the sea, my heart swelled with the deep emo-
tions of the pilgrim, when he sees afar the spire
which rises above the shrine of his dev^otion.
In this my pilgrimage, ^^ I have passed many
lands and countries, and searched many full
strange places." I have traversed France from
Normandy to Navarre ; smoked my pipe m a
Flemish mn ; floated through Holland in a Trek^
schuit ; trimmed my midnight lamp in a German
university ; wandered and mused amid the clas-
sic scenes of Italy ; and listentf to the gay
guitar and merry castanet on the borders of the
blue Guadalquivir. The recollection of many
of the scenes I have passed through is still fresh
in my mind ; while the memory of others is
fast fading away, or is blotted out for ever. But
now I will' stay the too busy hand of time, and
call back the shadowy past. Perchance the old
12 THE PILGRIM OF OUTRE-MEE.
and the wise roaj accuse me of frivolity ; but I
see m this fair company the bright eje and lis-
tening ear of youth, — an age less rigid in its
censure and more willing to be pleased. ^' To
gendewomen and their loves is consecrated all
the wooing language, allusions to love-passions,
and sweet embracements feigned by the Muse
'mongst hills and rivers ; whatsoever tastes of
description, battel, story, abstruse antiquity, and
law of the kingdome, to the more severe critic.
To the one be contenting enjoyments of their
auspicious desires ; to the other, a happj attend-
ance of their chosen Muses." *
And now, fair dames and courteous gende-
men, give me attentive audience : —
*' Lordjng lystnith to my tale,
That is meryer than the Dightiogale."
* Seidell's Prefatory Discourse to the Notes in Drayton's
Poly-Olbion. %
FRANCE.
THE
NORMAN DILIGENCE.
The French guides, otherwUe called the postilians, have
one most diabolicall custome in their travelling upon the
wayes. Diabolicall it maybe well called; for, whensoever'
their horses doe a little anger them, they will say, in their
fury, ^Uons, diable^ — that is, Go, thou divel. This I know
by mine own experience.
C0RYAT*8 CrUDITIXS.
It was early in the ^^ leafy month of June "
that I travelled through the beautiful province
of Normandy. As France was the first foreign
coimtry I visited, every thing wore an air of
freshness and novelty, which pleased my eye,
and kept my fancy constandy busy. Life was
like a dream. It was a luxury to' breathe again
the free air, after having been so long cooped
up at sea ; and, like a long-imprisoned bird let
loose from its cage, I revelled in the .fireshness
and sunshine of the morning landscape.
On every side, valley and hill were covered
with a carpet of soft velvet green. The birds
were singing merrily in the trees, and the land-
16 THE NORMAN DILIGENCE.
scape wore that look of gajety so well described
in the quaint language of an old romance, mak-
ing the ^' sad, pensive, and aching heart to re-
joice, and to throw off mourning and sadness."
Here and there a cluster of chestnut-trees shaded
a thatch-roofed cottage, and little patches of
vmeyard were scattered on the slope of the
hills, mingling their delicate green with the deep
hues of the early summer grain. The whole
landscape had a fresh, hreezy look. It was not
hedged in from the highways, but lay open to
the eye of the traveller, and seemed to welcome
him with open arms. I felt less a stranger in
the land ; and as my eye traced the dusty road
winding along through a rich cultivated country,
skirted on either side with blossoming fruit-trees,
and occasionally caught glimpses of a little farm-
house resting in a green hollow and lapped in
the bosom of plenty, I felt that I was in a
prosperous, hospitable, and happy land.
I had taken my seat on top of the diligence,
in order to have a better view of the country.
It was one of those ponderous vehicles which
totter slowly along the paved roads of France,
laborii:^ beneadi a mountain of trunks and bales
of all descripticms ; and, like the Trojan horse.
THE NORMAN DILIGENCE. 17
bearing a groaning multitude within it. It was
a curious and cumbersome machine, resembling
the bodies of three coaches placed upon one car-
riage, with a cabriolet on top for outside passen-
gers. On the panels of each door were painted
the fleurs-de-lis of France, and upon the side
of the coach emblazoned, in golden characters,
^^ Exploitation Ginirale des Messageries Roy"
ales des Diligences pour le Havre^ Rouen, ef
Paris.''
It would be useless to describe the motley
groups that filled the four quarters of this little
world. There was the dusty tradesman, with
green coat and cotton umbreUa ; the sallow in-
valid, in skullcap and cloth shoes ; the priest
in his cassock ; the peasant in his frock ; and a
whole family of squalling children. My fellow-
travellers on top were a gay subaltern, with
fierce mustache, and a nut-brown village beauty
of sweet sixteen. The subaltern wore a mil-
itary undress, and a little blue cloth cap, in the
shape of a cow-bell, trimmed smartly with silver
lace, and cocked on one side of his head. The
brunette was decked out with a staid white Nor-
maili cap, nicely starched and plaited, and nearly
three feet high, a rosary and cross about her
2
18 THE NORMAN DILIGENCE.
neck, a linsey-woolsey gown, and wooden shoes.
The personage who seemed to rtde this little
world with absolute sway was a short, pursy man,
with a busy, self-satisfied air, and the sonorous
title of Monsieur It Condueteur. As msignia
of ofiBce, he wore a little round fur cap and fur-
trimmed jacket ; and carried in his hand a small
leathern portfolio, containing his way-bill. He
sat with us on top of the diligence, and with
comic gravity issued his mandates to the postil-
ion below, Uke some petty monarch speaking
from his throne. In every dingy village we
thundered through, he had a thousand commis-
sions to execute and to receive ; a package to
throw out on this side, and another to take in
on that ; a whisper for the landlady at the inn ;
a love-letter and a kiss for her daughter ; and
a wink or a snap of his fingers for the chamber-
maid at the window. Then there were so many
questions to be asked and answered, while chang-
ing horses ! Every body had a word to say.
It was Monsieur It Condueteur! here ; Monsieur
It Condueteur ! there. He was in complete bus-
tle ; till at length crying. En route ! he ascended
the dizzy height, and we lumbered away in a
cloud of dust.
THE NORMAN DILIGENCE. 19
But what most attracted my attention was the
grotesque appearance of the postilion and the
horses. He was a comical-looking little fellow,
already past the heyday of life, ;with a thin, sharp
countenance, to which the smoke of tobacco and
the fumes of wine had given the dusty look of
parchment. He was equipped in a short jacket
of purple velvet, set off with a red collar, and
adorned with silken cord. T^t breeches of
bright yellow leather arrayed his pipe-stem legs,
which were swallowed up in a huge ,pair of
wood^a boots, iron-fastened, and armed with
long, rattling spmrs. His shirt-collar was of vast
dimensions, and between it and the broad brim
of his high, bell-crowned, varnished hat project*
ed an eel-skin queue, with a little tuft of frizzled
hair, like a powder-puff, at tlie end, bobbing up
and down with the motion of the rider, and scat-
tering a white cloud around him.
The horses which drew the diligence were
harnessed to it with ropes and leather thongs,
in the most uncouth manner imaginable. They
were five in number ; black, white, and gray, — »
as various in size as in color. Their tails were
braided and tied up with wisps of straw ; and
when the postilion mounted and cracked his
20 THE NORMAN DILIGENCE.
heavj whip, off thej started ; one pulling this
way, another that, — one on the gallop, another
trottmg, and the rest draggmg along at a scram-
bling pace, between a trot and a walk. No soon-
er did the vehicle get comfortably in motion, than
the postilion, throwing the reins upon his horse's
neck, and drawbg a iSint and steel from one
pocket and a short-stemmed pipe from another,
leisurely struck fire, and began to smoke. Ever
and anon some part of the rope-harness would
give way ; Monsieur It ConducUur from on high
.would thunder forth an oath or two; a head
would be popped out at every window ; half a
dozen voices exclaim at once, ^^ What 's the
matter ? " and the postilion, apostrophizbg the
diabh as usual, would thrust his long whip into
the leg of his boot, leisurely dismount, and, draw-
ing a handful of packthread from his pocket, qui-
etly set himself to mend matters in the best way
possible.
In this manner we toiled slowly along the dusty
highway. Occasionally the scene was enlivened
by a group of peasants, driving before them a
little ass, laden with vegetables for a neighbouring
market. Then we would pass a solitary shep-
herd, sitting by the road-side, with a shaggy dog
THE NORMAN DILIGENCE^ 21
at hii^ feet, guarding his flock, and making bis
scanty meal on the contents of his wallet ; or
perchance a little peasant-^rl, in wooden shoes,
leadmg a cow by a cord attached to her boms, to
browse along the side of the ditch. Then we
would all alight to ascend some formidable hill
on foot, and be escorted up by a clamorous group
of sturdy mendicants, — annoyed by the cease*
less importunity of worthless beggary, or moved
to pity by the palsied limbs of the aged, and the
sightless eyeballs of the blind.
Occasionally, too, the poi^tilion drew up ia
front of a dingy little cabaret, completely over-
shadowed by wide-spreading trees. A lusty grape-
vine clambered up beside the door ; and a pine-
bough was thrust out from a hole in the wall, by
way of tavern-bush. Upon the front of the house
was generally inscribed m large black letters,
^'ICI ON DONNE A BOIRE ET X MANGER ; ON
LOGE X PIED ET X CHEVAL " ; a Sign which
may be thus paraphra[sed, — " Good entertain-
ment for man and beast '* ; but which was once
translated by a foreigner, " Here they give to
eat and drink ; they lodge on foot and on horse-
back ! "
Thus one object of curiosity succeeded an-
22 THE NORMAN PILIGENCE*
Other; hill, yalley, stream, and woodland iSitted
by me like the shiftmg scenes of a magic lantern,
and one train of thought gave place to another ;
tin at length, in the after part of the day, we
entered the broad and shady avenue of fine old
trees which leads to the western gate of Rouen,
and a few moments afterward were lost in the
crowds and confusion of its narrow streets.
THE
GOLDEN LION INN.
Monsieur Vinot. Je veux absolument un Lion d'Or;
parce qu*on dit, Ob. allez-vous ? An Lion d'Or ! — D'oik
venez-vous ? Du Lion d'Or ! — Ob irons-nous ? Au Lion
d'Or ! — Oil y a-t-il de bon vin ? Au Lion d'Or !
La Rose Rouox.
This answer of Monsieur Vinot must have
been runmng in my head as the diligence stopped
at the Messagerie ; for when the porter, who
took my luggage, said : —
" Oi alUz-vouB^ Monsieur ?"
I answered, without reflection (for, be it said
with all the veracity of a traveller, at that time
I did not know there was a Golden Lion in the
city),—
'^AuLiond'Or.''
And so to the Lion d'Or we went.
The hostess of the Golden Lion received
me with a courtesy and a smile, rang the house-
bell for a servant, and told him to take the gen-
tleman's thmgs to number thirty-five. I fol-
24 THE GOLDEN LION INN.
lowed him up stairs. One, two, three, four,
five, six, seven I Seven stories high, by Our
Lady ! — I counted them every one ; and when
I went down to remonstrate, I counted them
again ; so that there wad no possibility of a mis*
take. When I asked for a lower room, the host-
ess told me the house was full ; and when I
spoke of going to another hotel, she said she
should be so very sorry,, so desoUe^ to have
Monsieur leave her, that I marched up again to
number thirty-five.
After finding all the fault I could with the
chamber, I ended, as is generally the case with
most men on such occasions, by being very well
pleased with it. The only thing I could pos-
sibly complain of was my being lodged m the
seventh story, and in the immediate neighbour-
hood of a gentleman who was learning to play
the French horn. But to remunerate me for
these disadvantages, my window looked down
into a market-place, and gave me a distant view
of the towers of the cathedral, and the ruins of
the church and abbey of St. Ouen.
When I had fuDy prepared myself for a ram-
ble through the city, it was already sunset ;
and after the heat and dust of the day, the fresh-
THE GOLDEIV LION INN. 35
tiess of the long evening twilight was delight-
ful. When I enter a new city, I cannot rest
till I have satisfied the first cravings of curiosity
by rambling through its streets. Nor can I en*
dure a cicerone, with his eternal ^^ This way^
Sir." I never desire to be led durectly to an
object worthy of a traveller's notice, but prefer
a thousand times to find my own way, and come
upon it by surprise. This was particularly the
case at Rouen. It was the first European city
of importance that I visited. There was an air
of antiquity about the whole city that breathed
of the Middle Ages; and so strong and de-
lightful was the impression that it made upon my
youthful imagination, that nothing which I after-
ward saw could either equal or efface it. I
have smce passed through that city, but I did
not stop. I was unwilling to destroy an im-
pression which, even at this distant day, is as
firesh upon my mind as if it were of yesterday.
With these delightful feelings I rambled on
from street to street, till at length, after thread-
mg a narrow alley, I unexpectedly came out m
front of the magnificent cathedral. If it had
suddenly risen from the earth, the efi^ect could
not have been more powerful and instantaneous.
36 THE GOLDEN LION imf.
It completely overwhelmed mj imagiiudon ; and
I stood for a long time motionless, gazmg en*
tranced upon the stupendous edifice. I had
before seen no specimen of Gothic architect-
ure, save the remains of a little church at Havre ;
and the massive towers before me, the lofty
windows of stained glass, the low portal, with
its receding arches and rude statues, all pro-
duced upon my untravelled mmd an impression
of awful sublimity. When I entered the church,
the impression was still more deep and solemn.
It was the hour of vespers. The religious
twilight of the place, the lamps that burned on
the distant altar, the kneeling crowd, the tink-
ling bell, and the chant of the evening service
that rolled along the vaulted roof in broken and
repeated echoes, filled me with new and intense
emotions. When I gazed on the stupendous
architecture of the church, the huge columns that
the eye followed up till they were lost in the
gathering dusk of the arches above, the long
and shadowy aisles, the statues of samts and mar-
tyrs that stood in every recess, the figures of
armed knights upon the tombs, the uncertain
light that stole through the painted windows of
each little chapel, and the form of the cowled
THE OOLDEJf LlOlf INlf. 27
and solitary monk, kneeling at the sfarine of his
favorite samt, or passing between the lofty col-*
lunns of the churchy-~all I had read of, but
had not seen, — I was transported back to the
Dark Ages, and felt as I can never feel agam.
On the following day, I visited the remains
of an old palace, built by Edward the Third,
now occupied as the Palais de Justice, and the
ruins of the church and monastery of Saint
Antoine. I saw the hole in the tower where
the ponderous beU of the abbey fell through ;
and took a peep at the curious iUuminated man-
uscript of Daniel d'Aubonne in the public library.
The remamder of the morning was spent in visit-
ing the ruins of the ancient abbey of St. Ouen,
which is now transformed into the Hotel de Ville,
and in strolling through its beautiful gardens,
dreaming of the present and the past, and given
up to '* a melancholy of my own."
At the Table d^H6te of the Golden Lion, 1
fell into conversation with an elderly gentleman,
who proved to be a great antiquarian, and thor-
oughly read in all the forgotten lore of the city.
As our tastes were somewhat similar, we were
soon upon very friendly terms ; and after din-
ner we stroUed out to visit some remarkable
28 THE OOLDEN LION INN.
localities, and took the gloria together in the
Chevalier Bayard.
When we returned to the Golden Lion, he
entertained me with many curious stories of the
spots we had been visiting. Among others, he
related the following singular adventure of a monk
of the abbey of St. Antoine, which amused me
so much that I cannot refrain from presenting
it to my readers. I will not, however, vouch
for the truth of the story ; for that the and*
quarian himself would not do. He said he found
it in an ancient manuscript of the Middle Ages,
in the archives of the public library ; and I
give it as it was told me, without note or com-
ment.
MARTIN FRANC
AHD
THE MONK OF SAINT ANTHONY.*
Seignor, oiez udo merveille,
C'onques n'oistes sa pareille,
Que je Tos vaeil dire et conter ;
Or metez cuer a I'escouter.
Fabliau du Bouchier d'Abbetille.
Lystyn Lordyngs to my tale,
And ye shall here of one story,
Is better than any wyne or ale.
That ever was made in this cuntry.
Ancient Metrical Romance
In times of old, there lived in the city of
Rouen a tradesman named Martin Franc, who,
* The outlines of the following tale were taken from a
Norman Fabliau of the thirteenth century, entitled Le Se-
greUdn Moine, To judge by the numerous imitations of this
story which still eiist in old Norman pOetry, it seems to have
been a prodigious favorite of its day, and to have passed
through as many bands as did the body of Friar Gui. It prob^
ably had its origin in ** The Story of the Little Hunchback,*'
a tale of the Arabian Nights ; and in modern times has been
imitated in the poetic tale of ** The Knight and the Friar,**
by George Colman.
30 MARTIN FRANC AND
by a series of misfortunes, had been reduced
from opulence to poverty. But poverty, which
generally makes men humble and laborious, only
served to make him proud and lazy ; and ip
proportion as he grew poorer and poorer, he
grew also prouder and lazier. He contrived,
however, to live along from day to day, by now
and then pawning a silken robe of his wife, or
selling a silver spoon, or some other trifle saved
from the wreck of his better fortunes ; and passed
his time pleasantly enough in loitering about the
market-place, and walking up and down on the
sunny side of the street.
The fair Marguerite, his wife, was celebrated
through the whole city for her beauty, her wit,
and her virtue. She was a brunette, with the
blackest eye, the whitest teeth, and the ripest
nut-brown cheek in all Normandy; her figure
was tall and stately, her hands and feet most
delicately moulded, and her swimming gait like
the motion of a swan. In happier days she
had been the delight of the richest tradesmen in
the city, and the envy of the fairest dames.
The friends of Martin Franc, like the friends
of many a ruined man before and since, desert-
ed him in the day of adversity. Of all that
THE MONK OF SAINT ANTHONY. 31
had eaten his dinners, and drank his i;rine, and
flattered his wife, none sought the narrow alley
and humble dwelling of the broken tradesman
save one, and that one was Friar Gui, the sac-
ristan of the abbey of Saint Anthony. He was
a litde, jolly, red-faced friar, with a leer in his
eye, and rather a doubtful reputation ; but as he
was a kind of travelling gazette, and always
brought the latest news and gossip of the city,
and besides was the only person that condescend*
ed to visit the house of Martin Franc, — in fine,
for the want of a better, he was considered in
the light of a friend.
In these constant assiduities. Friar Gui had his
secret motives, of which the single heart of
Martin Franc was entirely unsuspicious. ^ The
keener eye of his wife, however, sQpn discover-
ed two faces under the hood ; but she persever-
ed in misconstruing the friar's intentions, and in
dexterously turning aside any expressions of gal-
lantry that fell from his lips. In this way Friar
Gui was for a long time kept at bay ; and Martin
Franc preserved m the day of poverty and dis-
tress that consolation of all this world's afflictions,
— a friend. But, finally, things came to such
a pass, that the honest tradesman opened his
32 MARTIN FRANC AND
ejes^ and wondered he had been asleep so long.
Whereupon he was irreverent enough to thrust
Friar Gui mto the street hj the shoulders.
Meanwhile the times grew worse and worse.
One family relic foUowed another, — the last silk-
en robe was pawned, the last silver spoon sold ;
until at length poor Martin Franc was forced to
^^drag the devil by the tail" ; in other words,
beggary stared him full in the face. But the fair
Marguerite did not even then despair. In those
days a belief in the immediate guardianship of the
saints was much more strong and prevdent than
in these lewd and degenerate times ; and as there'
seemed no great probability of improving their
condition by any lucky change which could be
brought about by mere human agency, she deter-
mined to try what could be done by intercession
with the patron saint of her husband. Accord-
ingly she repaired one evening to the abbey of
St. Anthony, to place a votive candle and offer
her prayer at the altar, which stood in the little
chapel dedicated to St. Martin.
It was already sunset when she reached the
church, and the evening service of the Virgin had
commenced. A cloud of incense floated before
the altar of the Madonna, and the organ rolled its
THE MONK OF SAINT ANTHONY. 33
deep melody along the dim arches of the church.
Marguerite mbgled with the kneeling crowd, and
repeated the responses in Latin, with as much
devotion as the most learned clerk of the convent.
When the service was over, she repaired to the
chapel of St. Martin, and, lighting her votive
taper at the silver lamp which burned before his
altar, knelt down in a retired part of the chapel,
and, with tears in her eyes, besought the saint
for aid and protection. While she was thus en-
gaged, the church became gradually deserted, till
she was left, as she thought, alone. But in this
dhe was mistaken ; for, when she arose to depart,
the portly figure of Friar Gui was standing close
at her elbow !
^^ Good evening, fair Marguerite," said he.
^' St. Martin has heard your prayer, and sent me
to relieve your poverty."
" Then, by the Virgm ! " replied she, " the
good samt i3 not very fastidious in the choice of
his messengers."
" Nay, goodwife," answered the friar, not at
all abashed by this ungracious reply, "if the
tidmgs are good, what matters it who the messen-
ger may be f And how does Martin Franc these
days ? "
3
34 MARTIN FRANC AND
^^ He is well," replied Marguerite ; ^^and were
be present, I doubt not would tbank you beartily
for the interest you still take in bim and bis poor
wife."
^^ He bas done me wrong," eontinued the fnar.
^^ But it is our duty to forgive our enemies ; and
so let the past be forgotten. I know that he is in
want. Here, take this to bim, and tell bim I am
still bis friend."
So saying, be drew a small purse from tbe
sleeve of his habit, and prolSered it to bis com^
panion. I know not whether it were a suggestion
of St. Martin, but true it is tbat the fair wife of
Martin Franc seemed to lend a more willing ear
to the earnest whispers of the friar. At length
she said, —
" Put up your purse ; to-day I can neither de-
liver your gift nor your message. Martin Franc
has gone from home."
" Then keep it for yourself."
" Nay, Sir Monk," replied Marguerite, castmg
down her eyes ; ^'I can take no bribes here in
the church, and in tbe very chapel of my hus-
band's patron saint. You shall bring it to me at
my bouse, if you will."
Tbe friar put up the purse, and the conver-
THE MONK OF SAINT ANTHONT. 35
sadon which followed was in a low and indis-
tinct undertone, audible only to the ears for which
it was intended. At length the interview ceased ;
and — O woman ! — the last words that the vir-
tuous Marguerite uttered, as she glided from the
church, were, —
" To-night ; — when the abbey-clock strikes
twelve ; — remember ! "
It would be useless to relate how impatiently
the friar counted the hours and the quarters as
they chimed from the ancient tower of the ab-
bey, while he paced to and fro along the gloomy
cloister. At length the appomted hour approach-
ed ; and just before the convent-bell sent forth
its summons to call the friars of St. Anthony
to their midnight devotions, a figure, with a cowl,
stole out of a postern-gate, and, passing silently
along the deserted streets, soon turned into the
little alley which led to the dwelling of Martin
Franc. It was none other than Friar Gui. He
rapped softly at the tradesman's door, and cast-
ing a look up and down the street, as if to assure
himself that his motions were unobserved, slipped
into the house.
'^ Has Martin Franc returned ? " inquired he
in a whispar.
36 MARTIN FRANC AND
" No," answered the sweet voice of his wife ;
" he win not be back to-night."
" Then all good angels befriend us ! " con-
tbued the monk, endeavouring to take her hand.
" Not so, good Monk," said she, disengagmg
herself. " You forget the conditions of our
meeting."
The friar paused a moment ; and then, draw?
ing a heavy leathern purse from his girdle, he
threw it upon the table ; at the same moment
a footstep was heard behind him, and a heavy
blow from a club threw him prostrate upon the
floor. It came from the strong arm of Martin
Franc himself !
It is hardly necessary to vsay that his absence
was feigned. His wife had mvented the story
to decoy the monk, and thereby to keep her
husband from beggary, and to relieve herself,
once for all, from the importunities of a false
friend. At first Martin Franc would not lis-
ten to the proposition ; but at length he yielded
to the urgent entreaties of his wife ; and the
plan finally agreed upon was, that Friar Gui,
after leaving his purse behind him, should be
sent back to the convent with a severer disciplme
than his shoulders had ever received from any
penitence of his own.
THE MONK OF SAINT ANTHONT. 37
The affair, however, took a more serious turn
than was intended ; for, when they tried to raise
the friar from the ground, — he was dead. The
blow aimed at his shoulders fell upon his shaven
crown ; and, in the excitement of the moment,
Martin Franc had dealt a heavier stroke than he
intended. Amid the grief and consternation
which followed this discovery, the quick imagina-
tion of his wife suggested an expedient of safety.
A bunch of keys at the friar's girdle caught her
eye. Hastily unfastening the ring, she gave the
keys to her husband, exclaiming, —
'' For the holy Virgin's sake, be quick ! One
of these keys doubtless unlocks the gate of the
convent-garden. Carry the body thither, and
leave it among the trees ! "
Martin Franc threw the dead body of the
monk across his shoulders, and with a heavy
heart took the way to the abbey. It was a clear,
starry night ; and though the moon had not yet
risen, her light was in the sky, and came re-
flected down in a soft twilight upon earth. Not
a sound was heard through all the long and soli-
tary streets, save at intervals the distant crow-
ing of a cock, or the melancholy hoot of an owl
from the lofty tower of the abbey. The silence
38 MARTIN FRANC AND
weighed like an accusing spirit upon the guilty
conscience of Martin Franc. He started at the
sound of his own breathing, as he panted under
the heavy burden of the monk's body ; and if,
perchance, a bat flitted near him on drowsy
wings, he paused, and his heart beat audibly with
terror. At length he reached the garden-wall
of the abbey, opened the postern-gate with the
key, and, bearing the monk into the garden, seat-
ed him upon a stone bench by the edge of
the fountain, with his head resting against a col-
umn, upon which was sculptured an image of
the Madonna. He then replaced the bunch of
keys at the monk's girdle, and returned home
with hasty steps.
When the prior of the convent, to whom the
repeated delinquencies of Friar Gui were but too
well known, observed that he was again absent
from his post at midnight prayers, he waxed ex-
ceedmgly angry ; and no sooner were the duties
of the chapel finished, than he sent a monk in
pursuit of the truant sacristan, summoning him
to appear immediately at his cell. By chance
it happened that the monk chosen for this duty
was an enemy of Friar Gui ; and very shrewdly
supposing that the sacristan had stolen out of the
THE MONK OF SAINT ANTHONY. 39
garden-gate on some midnight adventure, he
took that direction in pursuit. The moon was
just climbing the convent-wall, and threw its
silvery light through the trees of the garden,
and on the sparklmg waters of the fountain, that
fell with a soft lulling sound into the deep ba-
sin below. As the monk passed on his way,
he stopped to quench his thirst with a draught
of the cool water, and was turning to depart,
when his eye caught the motionless fonn of the
sacristan, sittbg erect in the shadow of the stone
column.
" How is this. Friar Gui i " quoth the monk.
^^ Is this a place to be sleeping at midnight, when
the brotlierhood are all at their prayers ? "
Friar Gui made no answer.
" Up, up ! thou eternal sleeper, and. do pen-
ance for thy negligence. The prior calls for
thee at his cell ! " continued the monk, grow-
ing angry, and shaking the sacristan by the
shoulder.
But still no answer.
" Then, by Samt Anthony, I 'U wake thee ! "
And saying this, he dealt the sacristan a heavy
box on the ear. The body bent slowly forward
from its erect position, and, giving a headlong
40 , MARTIN FRANC AND
plunge, sank with a heavy splash into the basin
of the fountam. The monk waited a few mo-
ments in expectation of seeing Friar Gui rise
dripping from his cold bath ; but he waited in
vain ; for he lay motionless at the bottom of the
basin, — his eyes open, and his ghasdy face dis-
torted by the ripples of the water. With a beat-
ing heart the monk stooped down, and, graspmg
the skirt of the sacristan's habit, at length suc-
ceeded in drawing him from the water. All
efforts, however, to resuscitate him were unavail-
ing. The monk was 611ed with terror, not doubt-
ing that the friar had died untimely by his hand ;
and as the animosity between them was no se-
cret in the convent, he feared, that, when the
deed was known, he should be accused of mur-
der. He therefore looked round for an expe-
dient to relieve himself from the dead body ; and
the well known character of the sacristan soon
suggested one. He determined to carry the
body to the house of the most noted beauty of
Rouen, and leave it on the door-step ; so that
all suspicion of the murder might fall upon the
shoulders of some jealous husband. The beauty
of Martin Franc's wife had penetrated even the
thick walls of the convent, and there was not a
THE MONK OF SAINT ANTHONT. 41
friar in the whole abbey of Saint Anthony who
had not done penance for his truant imagination.
Accordingly, the dead body of Friar Gui was
laid upon the monk's brawny shoulders, carried
back to the house of Martin Franc, and placed in
an erect position against the door. The monk
knocked loud and long ; and then, gliding through
a by-lane, stole back to the convent.
A troubled conscience would not suffer Martin
Franc and his wife to close their eyes ; but they
lay awake lamenting the doleful events of the
night. The knock at the door sounded like a
death-knell in their ears. It still continued at
mtervals, rap — rap — rap ! — with a dull, low
sound, as if something heavy were swinging agamst
the panel ; for the wind had risen durmg the night,
and every angry gust that swept down the alley
swung the arms of the lifeless sacristan against the
door. At length Martin Franc mustered courage
enough to dress himself and go down, while his
wife followed him with a lamp in her hand ; but
no sooner had he lifted the latch, than the ponder-
ous body of Friar Gui fell stark and heavy into
his arms.
" Jesu Maria ! " exclaimed Marguerite, cross-
ing herself; " hqre is the monk again ! "
42 MARTIN FRANC AND
^' Yes, and dripping wet, as if he had just been
dragged out of the river ! "
^^ O, we are betrayed ! " exclaimed Margue^
rite, in agony.
^' Then the devil himself has betrayed us," re-
plied Martin Franc, disengaging himself from the
embrace of the sacristan ; ^' for I met not a living
being ; the whole city was as silent as the grave."
^' Saint Martin defend us ! " continued his
terrified wife. ^^ Here, take this scapulary to
guard you from the Evil One ; and lose no time.
You must throw the body mto the river, or we
are lost ! Holy Virgin ! How bright the moon
shmes ! "
Sajring this, she threw round his neck a scapu-
lary, with the figure of a cross on one end, and an
image of the Virgm on the other ; and Martin
Franc again took the dead friar upon his should-
ers, and with fearful misgivings departed on his
dismal errand. He kept as much as possible in
the shadow of the houses, and had nearly reached
the quay, when suddenly he thought he heard
footsteps behmd him. He stopped to listen ; it
was no vain imagination ; they came along the
pavement, tramp, tramp ! and every step grew
louder and nearer. Martin Franc tried to quick
THE MONK OF SAINT ANTHONY. 43
en his pace, — but in vain ; his knees smote to-
gether, and he staggered agamst the wall. His
hand relaxed its grasp, and the monk slid from his
back and stood ghastly and straight beside him,
supported by chance against the shoulder of his
bearer. At that moment a man came round the
comer,* tottering beneath the weight of a huge
sack. As his head was bent downwards, he did
not perceive Martin Franc till he was close upon
him ; and when, on looking up, he saw two
figures standing motionless in the shadow of the
wall, he thought himself waylaid, and, without
waiting to be assaulted, dropped the sack from
his shoulders and ran o£f at full speed. The sack
fell heavily on the pavement, and directly at the
feet of Martin Franc. In the fall the string was
broken ; and out came the bloody head, not of
a dead monk, as it first seemed ,to the excited
imagination of Martin Franc, but of a dead hog !
When the terror and surprise caused by this
singular event had a little subsided, an idea came
into the mind of Martin Franc, very similar to
what would have come mto the mind of almost
any person in similar circumstances. He took
the hog out of the sack, and, putting the body of
the monk into its place, secured it well with the
44 MARTIN FRANC AND
remnants of the broken strmg, and then hurried
homeward with the animal upon his shoulders.
He was hardly out of sight when the man with
the sack returned, accompanied by two others.
They were surprised to find the sack still lying on
the ground, with no one near it, and began to jeer
the former bearer, telling him he had been firight-
ened at his own shadow on the wall. Then one
of them took the sack upon his shoulders, without
the least suspicion of the change that had been
made in its contents, and all three disappeared.
Now it happened that the city of Rouen was at
that time infested by three street robbers, who
walked in darkness like the pestilence, and always
carried the plunder of their midnight marauding
to the Tete-de-Boeuf, a little tavern m one of the
darkest and narrowest lanes of the city. The
host of the Tete-de-Boeuf was privy to all their
schemes, and had an equal share in the profits
of their nightly excursions. He gave a helping
hand, too, by the length of his bills, and by plun-
dering the pockets of any chance traveller that
was luckless enough to sleep under his roof.
On the night of the disastrous adventure of
Friar Gui, this little marauding party had been
prowlmg about the city until a late hour, without
THE MONK OF SAINT AMTHONT. 45
finding any thing to reward their labors. At
length, however, they chanced to spy a hog,
hanging under a shed in a butcher's yard, in
readiness for the next day's market ; and as they
were not very fastidious in selecting their plunder,
but, on the contrary, rather addicted to taking
whatever they could lay their hands on, the hog
was straightway purloined, thrust into a large sack,
and sent to the Tete-de-Boeuf on the shoulders
of one of the party, while the other two continued
their nocturnal excursion. Tt was this person who
had been so terrified at the appearance of Martin
Franc and the dead monk ; and as this encounter
had interrupted any further operations of the party,
the dawn of day bemg now near at hand, they
all repaired to their gloomy den in the Tete-de-
Boeuf. The host was impatiently waiting their
return ; and, askmg what plunder they had brought
with them, proceeded without delay to remove it
from the sack. The first thing that presented
itself, Qp untying the string, was the monk's hood.
" The devil take the devil ! " cried the host,
as he opened the neck of the sack; "what's
this ? Tour hog wears a cowl ! "
" The poor devil has become disgusted with
the world, and turned monk ! " said he who held
46 MARTIN FRANC AND
the light, a little surprised at seeing the head
covered with a coarse gray cloth.
'' Sure enough he has," exclaimed another,
starting back in dismay, as the shaven crown and
ghastly face of the friar appeared. '*• Holy St.
Benedict he with us ! It is a monk stark dead ! "
'' A dead monk, indeed ! " said a third, with
an bcredulous shake of the head ; '^ how could a
dead monk get into this sack ? No, no ; there is
some diablerie in this. I have heard it said that
Satan can take any shape he pleases ; and you
may rely upon it this is Satan himself, who ha^
taken the shape of a monk to get us all hanged."
^^ Then we had better kill the devil than have
the devil kill us ! " replied the host, crossing him*
self; ^^ and the sooner we do it the better ; for it
is now daylight, and the people will soon be pass-
ing in tlie street."
" So say I," rejoined the man of magic ; " and
my advice is, to take him to the butcher's yard,
and hang him up m tlie place where we found the
Iwg."
This proposition so pleased the others that it
was executed without delay. They carried the
friar to tlie butcher's house, and, passing a strong
cord roimd his neck, suspended him to a beam
in the shade, and there left him.
THE MONK OF SAINT AlfTHONT. 47
Wb^ the night was at length past, and day-
light began to peep into the eastern windows
of the city, the butcher arose, and prepared
himself for market. . He was castmg up b his
mind what the hog would bring at his stall, when,
looking upward, lo ! m its place be recognized
the dead body of Friar Gui.
" By St. Denis ! " quoth the butcher, " I
always feared that this friar would not die quiet-
ly in his cell ; but I nerer thought I should find
him hanging under my own roof. This must
not be ; it will be said that I murdered him,
and I shall pay for it with my life. I must con-
trive some way to get rid of him."
So saying, he called his man, and, showing
him what had been done, asked him how he
should dispose of the body so that he might
not be accused of murder. The man, who was
of a ready wit, reflected a moment, and then
answered, —
^^ This is mdeed a difficult matter ; but there
is no evil without its remedy. We will place
the friar on horseback "
"What! a dead man on horseback.^ — im-
possible ! " bterrupted the butcher. " Who
ever heard of a dead man on horseback ! "
48 * MARTIN FRANC AND
'^ Hear me out, ahd then judge. We must
place the body on horseback as well as we may,
and bind it fast with cords ; and then set the
horse loose in the street, and pursue him, crying
out that the monk has stolen the horse. Thus
all who meet him will strike him with their staves
as he passes, and it will be thought that he came
to his death in that way."
Though this seemed to the butcher rather a
mad project, yet, as no better one offered itself
at the moment, and there was no time for re-
flection, mad as the project was, they determined
to put it into execution. Accordingly the butch-
er's horse was brought out, and the friar wap
bound upon his back, and with much difficulty
fixed in an upright position. The butcher then
gave the horse a blow upon the crupper with
his staff, which set him into a smart gallop down
the street, and he and his man joined in pursuit,
crymg, —
"Stop thief! Stop thief! The friar has
stolen my horse ! "
As it was now sunrise, the streets were full
of people, — peasants driving their goods to mar-
ket, and citizens going to their daily avocations.
When they saw the friar dashing at full speed
THE MONK OF SAINT ANTHONY. 49
down the street, they joined in the cry of " Stop
thief ! — Stop thief ! " and many who endeav-
oured to seize the bridle, as the friar passed them
at full speed, were thrown upon the pavement,
and trampled under foot ; others joined in the
halloo and the pursuit ; but this only served
to quicken the gallop of the frightened steed,
who dashed down one street and up another
like the wind, with two or three mounted cit-
izens clattering m full cry at his heels. At length
they reached the market-place. The people
scattered right and left in dismay ; and the steed
and rider dashed onward, overthrowing in their
course men and women, and stalls, and piles
of merchandise, and sweeping away Uke a whiri-
wind. Tramp — tramp — tramp ! they clattered
on ; they had distanced all pursuit. They reach-
ed the quay ; the wide pavement was cleared at
a bound, — one more wild leap, — and splash ! —
both horse and rider sank into the rapid current
of the river, — swept down the stream, — and
were seen no more !
THE
VILLAGE OF AUTEUIL.
II n'est tel plaisir
Que d'estre k g^sir
Parmy les beaux champs,
L'berbe verde choiair,
Et prendre bon temps.
Martial D'Auvxrovb
The sultry heat of summer always brings with
it, to the idler and the man of leisure, a long-
ing for the leafy shade and the green luxuriance
of the country. It is pleasant to interchange, the
din of the city, die movement of the crowd, and
die gossip of society, with the silence of the
hamlet, the quiet seclusion of the grove, and the
gossip of a woodland brook. As is sung in the
old ballad of Robin Hood, —
** In somer, wben tbe sbawes be sheyn,
And leves be large and long,
Hit b full mery in feyre foreste,
To here the foulys song ;
To se the dere draw to the dale
And leve the hilles bee.
And shadow hem in the leves grene,
Voder the grene wode tre."
THE TILLAGE OF AUTEUIL. 5l
It was a feeling of dus kind that prompted
me, during rtij reindence in the Nordi of France,
to pass one of tibe summer months at Auteuil,
the pleasantest of the manf little Tillages that
lie in the immediate Ticinity of the metropolb.
It is situated on the. outskirts of the Bois de
Boulogne, a wood of some extent, in whose
green alleys the dusty cit enjoys the luxuiy of
an eTenin^ driTe, and gentlemen meet m the
mombg to giTe each other satisfaction in the
usual way. A cross-road, skirted with green
hedge-rows, and OTershadowed by tall poplars,
leads you from the noisy highway of St. Oloud
and Versailles to the still retirement of this sub-
urban hamlet. On either side the eye discoT^rs
old chateaux amid the trees, and green parks,
whose pleasant shades recall a thousand images
of La Fontaine, Racine, and Moliere ; and on
an eminence, OTerlooking the windings of the
Seine, and giTing a beautiful though distant Tiew
of the dcHnes and gardens of Paris, rises the
Tillage of Passy, long the residence of our coun-
trymen Franklin and Count Rumford.
I took up my abode at a mai$on de sarUi ;
not that I was a Taletudinarian, but because I
there found some one to whom I could whisper,
52 THE VILLAGE OF AUTEUIL.
" How sweet is solitude ! " Behind the house
was a garden filled with fruit-trees of various
kinds, and adorned with gravel-walks and green
arbours, furnished with tables and rustic seats,
for the repose of the invalid and the sleep of
the indolent. Here the inmates of the rural
hospital met on common ground, to breathe the
invigorating air of morning, and while away the
lazy noon or vacant evening with tales of the
sick-chamber.
The establishment was kept by Dr. Dentde-
lion, a dried-up little fellow, with red hair, a
sandy complexion, and the physiognomy and
gestures of a monkey. His character corre-
sponded to his outward lineaments ; for he bad
all a monkey's busy and curious impertmence.
Nevertheless, such as he was, the village -Sscu-
lapius strutted forth the little great man of Au-
teuil. The peasants looked up to him as to an
oracle ; he contrived to be at the head of every
thing, and laid claim to the credit of all public
improvements in the village ; in fine, he was a
great man on a small scale.
It was within the dingy walls of this little
potentate's imperial palace that I chose my coun-
try residence. I had a chamber in the second
THE VILLAGE OF AUTEUIL. 53
stoiy, with a solitary window, which looked upon
the street, and gave me a peep into a neighbour's
garden. This I esteemed a great privilege ;
for, as a stranger, I desired to see all that was
passmg out of doora; and the sight of green
trees, though growing on another's ground, is al-
ways a blessmg. Within doors — had I been
disposed to quarrel with my household gods —
I might have taken some objection to my neigh-
bourhood ; for, on one side of me was a con-
sumptive patient, whose graveyard cough drove
me from my chamber by day ; and on the other,
an English colonel, whose mcoherent ravings,
in the delirium of a high and obstinate fever,
often broke my slumbers by night ; but I found
ample amends for these mconveniences in the
society of those who were so little indisposed
as hardly to know what ailed them, and those
who, in health themselves, had accompanied a
friend or relative to the shades oiT the country
in pursuit of it. To these I am mdebted for
much courtesy ; and particularly to one who,
if these pages should ever meet her eye, will
not, I hope, be unwilling to accept this slight
memorial of a former friendship.
It was, however, to the Bois de Boulogne that
54 THE TILLAGE Or AUTEUIL.
I looked fof my principal recreation. There I
took 1117 solitary walk, momiiig and evening ; or,
mounted on a little mouse-ccdored donkej, paced
demurely along the woodland padiway. I had
a favorite seat beneath the shadow of a vener-
able oak, one of the few hoary patriarchs of the
wood which bad survived the bivouacs of the
allied armies. It stood upon the brink of a lit-
tle glassy pool, whose tranquil bosom was the
image of a quiet and secluded life, and stretched
its parental arms over a rustic b^ich, that had
been constructed beneath it for the accommoda-
tion of the foot-traveller, or, perchance, some idle
dreamer like myself. It seemed to look round
with a lordly air upon its old hereditary domain,
whose stillness was no longer broken by the tap
of the martial drum, nor the discordant clang of
arms ; and, as the breeze whispered among its
branches, it seemed to be holding friendly collo-
quies with a few of its venerable contemporaries,
who stooped from the opposite bank of the pool,
nodding gravely now and then, and gazing at
themselves with a sigh in the mirror below.
In this quiet haunt of rurdi repose I used to sit
at noon, hear the birds sing, and ^^ possess myself
in much quietness." Just at my feet lay the litde
THte VILLAGE or AUTfiUIIir. 55
sOver pool, with the sky and the woods painted in
its mimic vault, and occasionally the image of a
bird, or the soft, watery outline of a cloud, floating
silently through its sunny hollows. The water*
lily spread its broad, green leaves on the surface,
and rocked to sleep a litde world of insect life in
its golden cradle. Sometimes a wandering leaf
came floating and wavering downward, and set-
tled on the water ; then a vagabond insect would
break the smooth surface into a thousand rip^des,
or a green-coated frog slide from the haxAiy and^
plump ! dive headlong to the bottom.
I entered, too, with some enthusiasm, into aU
the rural i^orts and merrimakes of the village^
The holydays were so many litde eras of mirth
and good feelmg ; for the Fr^ch have that hap-
py and sunshme temperament, — that merry-go-
mad character, — which renders all thw social
meetings scenes of enjoyment and hilarity. I
made it a point never to miss any of the fite$
champitresy or rural dances, at the wood o(
Boulogne ; though I confess it sc»netimes gave
me a momentary uneasmess to see my rustic
throne beneath the oak usurped by a noisy group
of girls, the silence and decorum of my imaginary
reahn broken by music and laughter, and, m a
56 THE VILLAGE OF AUTEUIL.
word, my whole kingdom turned topsy-turvy
with rompmg, fiddlmg, and dancing. But I am
naturally, and from principle, too, a lover of all
those innocent amusements which cheer the labor-
er's toil, and, as it were, put their shoulders to
the wheel of life, and help the poor man along
with his load of cares. Hence I saw with no
small delight the rustic swain astride the wood-
en horse of the carrousel^ and the village maiden
whirling round and round in its diz2y car; or
took my stand on a rising ground that over-
looked the dance, an idle spectator in a busy
throng. It was just where the village touched
the outward border of the wood. There a little
area had been levelled beneath the trees, sur-
rounded by a painted rail, with a row of benches
inside. The music was placed in a slight bal-
cony, built around the trunk of a large tree in
the centre ; and the lamps, hanging from the
branches above, gave a gay, fantastic, and fairy
look to the scene. How often in such moments
did I recall the lines of Goldsmith, describing
those " kinder skies " beneath which " France
displays her bright domain," and feel how true
and masterly the sketch, —
THE VILLAGE OF AUTEUIL. 57
" Alike all ages ; dames of ancient days
Have led their children through the mirthful maze,
And the gray grandnre, skilled in gestic lore, «
Has frisked beneath the burden of threescore."
Nor must I forget to mention the fUt patro-
naky — a kind of annual fair, which is held at mid-
summer, in honor of the patron saint of Auteuil.
Then the principal street of the village is filled
with booths of every description ; strolling play-
ers, and rope-dancers, and jugglers, and giants,
and dwarfs, and wild beasts, and all kinds of
wonderful shows, excite the gaping curiosity of
the throng ; and in dust, crowds, and confusion,
the village rivals the capital itself. Then the
goodly dames of Passy descend into the village of
Auteuil ; then the brewers of Billancourt and the
tanners of Sevres dance lustily under the green-
wood tree ; and then, too, the sturdy fishmon-
gers of Bretigny and Saint- Yon regale their fat
wives with an airing m a swing, and their cus-
tomers with eels and crawfish ; or, as is more
poetically set forth in an old Christmas carol, —
*' Vous eussiez vu venir tous ceux de Saint-Yon,
£t ceux de Bretigny apportant du poisson,
Les barbeaux et gardons, anguilles et carpettes
Etoient k bon raarch6
Croyez,
A cette joum6e-Ui,
La, Id,
Et aussi les perchettes."
58 THE VILLAGE OF AUTEUIL.
«
I found another source of amusement in ob*
serving the various personages that daily passed
and repassed beneath my window. The charac-
ter which most of all arrested my attention was
a poor blind fiddler, whom I first saw chanting a
doleful ballad at the door of a small tavern near
the gate of the village. He wore a brown
coat, out at elbows, the firagment of a velvet
waistcoat, and a pair of ti^t nankeens, so short
as hardly to reach below his calves. A little for-
aging cap, that had long since seen its best days,
set off an open, good-humored countenance,
bronzed by sun and wind. He was led about
by a brisk, middle-aged woman, in straw hat
and wooden shoes ; and a little barefooted boy,
with clear, blue eyes and flaxen hair, held a tat-
tered hat in his hand, in which he collected
eleemosynaiy sous. The old fellow had a favor-
ite song, which he used to sing with great glee
to a merry, joyous air, the burden of which ran
^' Chantons V amour et h plairir!^^ I often
thought it would have been a good lesson for
the crabbed and discontented rich man to have
heard this renmant of humanity, ---poor, blind,
and in rags, and dependent upon casual charity
for his daily bread, smging in so cheerful a voice
THE VILLAGE OF AUTEUIL. &9
the charms of existence, and, as it were, fiddling
Mfe away to a merry tune.
I was one morning called to my window by
the sound of rustic music. I boked out and
beheld a procession of villagers advancing along
the road, attired m gay dresses, and marchii^
merrily on in the direction of the cfainrch. I
soon perceived that it was a marriage-festival.
The procession was led by a long orang-outang
of a man, in a straw hat and white dimity bob-
coat, playbg on an asthmatic clarionet, from
which he contrived to blow unearthly sounds,
ever and anon squeaking off at right angles from
his tune, and wmding up with a grand flourish
on the guttural notes. Behind him, led by his
litde boy, came die blind fiddler, his honest fea-
tures glowing with all the hilarity of a rustic bri-
dal, and, as he stumbled along, sawing away upon
his fiddle till he made all crack agam. Then
came the happy bridegroom, dressed in his Sun-
day suit of blue, with a large nosegay in his
button-hole ; and dose beside him his blushing^
bride, with downcast eyes, clad in a white robe
and slippers, and wearing a wreath of white roses
m her hair. The friends and relatives brought
up the procession ; and a troop of village urchins
60 THE VILLAGE OF AUTEUIL.
came shouting along in the rear, scrambling
among themselves for the largess of sous and
sugar-plums that now and then issued in large
handfuls from the pockets of a lean man in black,
who seemed to officiate as master of ceremonies
on the occasion. I gazed on the procession till
it was out of sight ; and when the last wheeze
of the clarionet died upon my ear, I could not
help thinking how happy were they who were
thus to dwell together in the peaceful bosom of
their native village, far from the gilded misery
and the pestilential vices of the town.
On the evening of the same day, I was sit-
ting J)y the window, enjoying the freshness of
the air and the beauty and stillness of the hour,
when I heard the distant and solemn hymn of the
Catholic burial-service, at first so famt and indis-
tmct that it seemed an illusion. It rose mourn-
fully on the hush of evening, — died gradually
away, — tlien ceased. Then it rose again, near-
er and more distinct, and soon after a funeral
procession appeared, and passed direcdy beneath
my window. It was led by a priest, bearing the
banner of the church, and followed by two boys,
holding long flambeaux ill their hands. Next
came a double file of priests in their surplices,
THE TILLAGE OF AUTEUIL. 61
with a missal in one hand and a lighted wax
taper In the other, chanting the funeral dirge at
intervals, — now pausing, and then again taking
up the mournful burden of their lamentation,
accompanied by others, who played upon a rude
kind of bassoon, with a dismal and wailing sound.
Then followed various symbols of the church,
and the bier borne on the shoulders of four
men. The coffin w^s covered with a velvet
pall, and a chaplet of white flowers lay upon
it, indicating that the deceased was unmarried.
A few of the villagers came behind, clad in
mourning robes, and bearing lighted tapers. The
procession passed slowly along the same street
that in the morning had been thronged by the
gay bridal company. A melancholy train of
thought forced itself home upon my mind. The
joys and sorrows of this world are so strikingly
mingled ! Our mirth and grief are brought so
mournfully in contact ! We laugh while others
weep, — and others rejoice when we are sad !
The light heart and the heavy walk side by side
and go about together ! Beneath the same roof
are spread the wedding-feast and the funeral-pall !
The bridal-song mingles with the burial-hymn !
One goes to the marriage-bed, another to the
[.
63 THE TILLAGE OF AVTEUIL.
grave ; and aJl b mutable, uncertain^ and transi-
tory.
It is with sensations of pure delist that I
recur to the brief period of my existence which
was passed in the peaceful shades of Auteuil.
There is one kind of wisdom which we learn
from the world, aiid another kind which can be
acquired in solitude only. In cities we study
those around us ; but in the retirement of the
country we learn to know ourselves. The voice
within us is more distinctly audible in the still*
ness of the place ; and the gender affections
of our nature spring up more freshly in its tran*
quillity and sunshine, — nurtured by the healthy
principle which we inhale with the pure air, and
invigorated by the genial influences which de-
scend mto the heart from the quiet of the syl-
van solitude around, and the soft serenity of the
sky above.
JACQUELINE.
Death lies on her, like an untimely frost
Upon the sweetest flower of all the field.
Sbakspears.
<^ Dear mother, is it not die bell I hear ? "
^^ Yes, my child ; the bell for morning prayers.
It is Sunday to-day."
^^I had forgotten it. But now all days are
alike to me. Hark ! it sounds again, — louder,-^
louder. Open die window, for I love the sound.
The sunshine and the fresh morning air revive
me. And the church-bell, — O mother, — it
reminds me of the holy Sabbath mornings by
the Loire,-— so calm, so hushed, so beautiful!
Now give me my prayer-book, and draw the
curtam back, that I may see the green trees and
the chinrch-spire. I feel better to-day, dear
mother."
It was a bright, cloudless morning in August.
The dew still glistened on the trees ; and a slight
64 JACQUELINE.
breeze wafted to the sick-chamber of Jacque-
line the song of the birds, the rustle of the
leaves, and the solemn chime of the church-
bells. She had been raised up in bed, and, re-
clining upon the pillow, was gazing wistfully
upon the quiet scene without. Her mother gave
her the prayer-book, and then turned away to
hide a tear that stole down her cheek.
At length the bells ceased. Jacqueline cross-
ed herself, kissed a pearl crucifix that hung
around her neck, and opened the silver clasps
of her missal. For a time she seemed wholly
absorbed in her devotions. Her lips moved, but
no sound was audible. At mtervals the solemn
voice of the priest was heard at a distance, and
then the confused responses of the congregation,
dymg away in inarticulate murmurs. Ere long
the thrilling chant of the Catholic service broke
upon the ear. At first it was low, solemn, and
indistinct ; then it became more earnest and en-
treating, as if interceding and imploring pardon
for sin ; and then arose louder and louder, full,
harmonious, majestic, as it wafted the song of
praise to heaven, — and suddenly ceased. Then
the sweet tones of the organ were heard, —
trembling, thrilling, and rising higher and higher,
JACQUELINE. 65
and filling the whole air with their rich, melo-
dious music. What exquisite accords ! — what
noble harmonies ! — what touching pathos ! The
soul of the sick girl seemed to kindle into more
ardent devotion, and to be rapt away to heaven in
the full) harmonious chorus, as it swelled onward,
doubling and redoubling, and rolling upward in a
full burst of rapturous devodon ! Then all was
hushed again. Once more the low sound of the
bell smote the air, and announced the elevation
of the host. The mvalid seemed entranced in
prayer. Her book had fallen beside her, — her
bands were clasped, -—her eyes closed, — her
soul retired withm its secret chambers. Then a
more triumphant peal of bells arose. The tears
gushed from her closed and swollen lids ; her
cheek was flushed ; she opened her dark eyes,
and fixed them with an expression of deep adora-
tion and penitence upon an image of the Saviour
on the cross, which bung at the foot of her bed,
and her Ups again moved in prayer. Her coun-
tenance expressed the deepest resignation. She
seemed to ask only diat she might die in peace,
and go to the bosom of her Redeemer.
The mother was kneeling by the window, '
with her face concealed in the folds of the cur^
5
66 JACQUELINE.
taiii. She arose, and, gomg to the bedside of
her child, threw her arms around her and burst
into tears.
^' My dear mother, I shall not live long ; I
feel it here. This piercmg pain, — at times it
seizes me, and I cannot — cannot breathe."
" My child, you will be better soon.'-
^' Yes, mother, I shall be better soon. All
tears, and pain, and sorrow will be over. The
hymn of adoration and entreaty I have just heard,
I shall never hear again on earth. Next 8ab«
bath, mother, kneel again by that wmdow as
to-day. I shall not be here, upon this bed of
pain and sickness ; but when you hear the solemn
hymn of worship, and the beseeching tones that
wbg the spirit up to God, thmk, mother, that I
am there, with my sweet sister who has gone be-
fore us, — kneeling at our Saviour's feet, and
happy, — O, how happy ! "
The afflicted mother made no reply, — her
heart was too full to speak.
" You remember, mother, how caknly Amie
died. She was so young and beautiful ! I al*
ways pray that I may die as she did. I do not
fear death as I did before she was taken firom
us. But, O, — this pain, — this cruel pain ! — it
JACQUELINE. 67
seems to draw my mind back from heaven.
When it leaves me, I shall die in peace."
" My poor child ! God's holy will be done ! "
The invalid soon sank into a quiet slumber.
The excitement was over, and exhausted nature
sought relief m sleep.
The persons between whom this scene passed
were a widow and her sick daughter, from the
neighbourhood of Tours. They had left the
banks of the Loire to consult the more expe-
rienced physicians of the metropolis, and had
been directed to the maison de santi at Au-
teuil for the benefit of the pure air. But all
in vain. The health of the uncomplaining pa-
tient grew worse and worse, and it soon be-
came evident that the closing scene was drawing
near.
Of this Jacquelbe herself seemed conscious ;
and towards evening she expressed a wish to
receive the last sacraments of the chtirch. A
priest was sent for ; and ere long the tinkling
of a little bell in the street announced his ap-
proach. He bore in his hand a silver chalice
containing the consecrated wafer, and a small
vessel filled with the holy oil of the extreme
unction hung from his neck. Before him walked
68 JACaVELinE.
a boy canyiiig a Utde beli, whose sound an«
Dounced the passii^ of these sjinbols of the
Catholic faith. In the rear, a few of the villa-
gers, bearing lighted wax tapers, formed a short
and melancholy procession. They soon entered
the sick-chamber, and the glimmer of the tapers
mingled with the red light of the setting sun
that shot his farewell rays through the open win**
dow. The vessel of oil and the silver chalice
were placed upon the table in front of a crucifix
that hung upon the wall, and all present, except*
mg the priest, threw themselves upon their knees.
The priest then approached the bed of the dy-
ing girl, and said, in a slow and solemn tone, —
^' The King of kings and Lord of lords has
passed thy threshold. Is thy spirit ready to re*
ceive him ? "
" It is, father."
" Hast thou confessed thy sins ? "
" Holy fadier, no."
" Confess thyself, then, that thy sins may be
forgiven, and thy name recorded in the book
of life."
And, turning to the kneeling crowd around,
he waved his hand for them to retire, and was
left alone with the sick girl. He seated him-
JACat^ELlNfi. 69
self beside her piUow, and the subdued whisper
of the confession mingled with the murmur aji
the evening air, which lifted the heayj folds
of the curtains, and stole in upon the holy scene.
Poor Jacqueline had few sins to confess, -^ a
secret thought or two towards the pleasures and
delights of the world, — a wish to live^ uout-
tered, but which, to the eye of her self-accusing
spirit, seemed to resist the wise providence of
God ; — no more. The confession of a meek
and lowly heart is soon made. The door was
again opened ; the attendants entered, and knelt
around the bed, and the priest proceeded, -—
^^ And now prepare thyself to receive with
contrite heart the body of our blessed Lord and
Redeemer. Dost thou believe that our Lord
Jesus Christ was conceived by the Holy Spirit,
and bom of the Virgb Mary ? "
" I beKeve."
And all present jomed in the solemn re-
sponse, —
" I believe."
'^ Dost thou believe that the Father is God,
that the Son is God, and that the Holy Spirit
is God, —three persons and one God ? "
" I believe."
70 JACQUELINE.
^' Dost tfaou believe that the Son is seated
on the right hand of the Majesty on high, whence
he shall come to judge the quick and the dead ? "
'^ I beheve.''
" Dost thou believe that by the holy sacra-*
ments of the church thy sms are forgiven thee,
and that thus thou art made worthy of eternal
life?"
" I beheve."
^^ Dost thou pardon, with all diy heart, all who
have offended thee in thought, word, or deed ? "
" I pardon them."
^^ And dost thou ask pardon of God and thy
neighbour for all offences thou hast committed
against them, either in thought, word, or deed ? "
" I do ! "
*' Then repeat after me, — O Lord Jesus, I
am not worthy, nor do I merit, that thy divine
majesty should enter this poor tenement of clay ;
but, according to thy holy promises, be my sms
forgiven, and my soul washed white from all
transgression."
Then, taking a consecrated wafer from the
vase, he placed it between the lips of the dying
girl, and, while the assistant sounded the little
silver bell, said, —
I
JACQUELINE. 71
«< Corpus Domini nostri Jesu ChrisH custodial
anitnam tuam in vitam eternam.^^
And the kneeling crowd smote tfaeir breasts
and responded in one solemn voice, —
" Amen ! "
The priest then took a little golden rod, and)
dipping it in holy oil, anointed the invalid upon
the hands, feet, and breast, in the form of the
cross. When these ceremonies were completed,
the priest and his attendants retired, leaving the
mother alone with her dying child, who, from
the exhaus^on caused by the preceding scene,
sank into a deathlike sleep.
^ Between two worlds life hoTered like a star,
*Twixt night and morn, upon the horizon's yerge.**
The long twilight of the summer evening stole
on ; the shadows deepened without, and the night-
lamp glimmered feebly in the sick-chamber ; but
still she slept. She was lymg with her hands
clasped upon her breast, — her pallid cheek rest-
ing upon the pillow, and her bloodless lips apart,
but motionless and silent as the deep of death.
Not a breath interrupted the silence of her slum-
ber. Not a movement of the heavy and sunk-
en eyelid, not a trembling of the lip, not a
shadow on the marble brow, told when the spirit
73 JACQUELINE.
took its flight. It passed to a better world than
this: —
** There 'a a perpetual spring, — perpetual youth ;
No joint-benumbiDg cold, nor Korching heat,
Famine, nor age, have any being there."
THE
SEXAGENARIAN.
Do yon set down yoar name in the scroll of youth, that
are written down old, with all the character! of age ? Hay«
you not a moiat eye, a dry hand, a yellow cheek, a white
beard, a decreasing leg ?
Sbaxspiars.
There he goes, in his long russet surtout,
sweeping down jronder gravel-walk, beneath the
trees, like a yellow leaf in autunm wafted along
by a fitful gust of wind. Now he pauses,-^
now seems to be whirled round m an eddy, ^
and now rustles and brushes onward again. He
is talking to himself in an under-tone, as usual,
and flourishes a pinch of snuff between bis fore-
finger and his thumb, ever and anon drumming
on the cover of his box, by way of empha-
sis, with a sound like die tap of a woodpecker.
He always takes a morning walk in the garden,
-^ in fact, I may say he passes the greater part
of the day there, either strollbg up and down
the gravel-walks, or sitting on a rustic bench in
74 THE SEXAGENARIAN.
one of the leafy arbours. He always wears that
same dress, too ; a bell-crowned hat, a frilled
bosom, and white dimity vest, soiled with snuff, -^
light nankeen breeches, and, over all, that long
and flowing surtout of russet-brown Circassian,
hanging in wrinkles round his slender body, and
toying with his thin, rakish legs. Such is his
constant garb, mommg and evening ; and it gives
him a cool and breezy look, even m the heat of
a noonday in August.
The personage sketched in the preceding par-
agraph is Monsieur D'Argentville, a sexagenarian,
with whom I became acquainted during my res*
idence at the maiion de sante of Auteuil. I
found him there, and left him there. Nobody
knew when he came, — he had been there from
time immemorial ; nor when he was going away,
— for he himself did not know ; nor what ailed
him, — for though he was always complaining, yet
he grew neither better nor worse, never con-
sulted the physician, and ate voraciously three
times a day. At table he was rather peevish,
troubled his neighbours with his elbows, and
utt^ed the monosyllable pish ! rather oftener than
good-breeding and a due deference to the opin-
ions of others seemed to justify. As soon as he
THE SEXAGENARIAN. 75
seated himself at table, he breathed into his turn-
]bler, and wiped it out with a napkin ; then wiped
his plate, his spoon, his knife and fork in succes-
sion, and each with great care. After this he
placed the napkm under his chin ; and, these prep*
arations being completed, gave full swing to
an appetite which was not inappropriately denom-
inated, by one of our guests, ^'une faim ca^
The old gentleman's weak side was an afiecta*
tion of youth and gaDantry. Though " written
down old, with all the characters of age,'' yet
at times he seemed to think himself in the hey-
day of life ; and the assiduous court he paid to a
fair countess, who was passmg the summer at
the maison de santij was the source of no little
merriment to all but himself. He loved, too, to
recall the golden age of his amours ; and would
discourse with prolix eloquence, and a faint
twinkle in his watery eye, of his honnts fortunes
in times of old, and the rigors that many a fair
dame had suffered on his account. Indeed, his
chief pride seemed to be to make his hearers
believe that he had been a dangerous man in his
youth, and was not yet quite safe.
As I also was a peripatetic of the garden, we
76 TBE 8CXAGENARIAN.
encountered eacb other at every turn. At first
our conversation was limited to the usual saluta-
tions of the day ; but ere long our casual acquaint-
ance ripened into a kind of intimacy. Step by
step I won my way, — first into Us society, — •
then into his muflf-box, -^ and then into his heart.
He was a great talker, and he found in me what
he found in no other mmate of the house,— r a
good listener, who never interrupted his long sto-
ries, nor contradicted his opinions. So he talked
down one alley and up another, -^firom breakfast
tOl dinner, — from dinner till midnight, — at all
times and in all places, when he could catch
me by the button, till at last he had confided to
my ear all the important and unimportant events
of a life of sixty years.
Monsieur D'Argentville was a shoot firom a
wealthy family of Nantes. Just before the Rev-
olution, he went up to Paris to study law at the
University, and, like many other wealthy schol-
ars of his age, was soon involved in the intrigues
and dissipation of the metropolis. He first es-
tablished himself in the Rue de l'Universit6 ;
but a roguish pair of eyes at an opposite win-
dow soon drove from' the field such heavy tac-*
ticians as Hugues Doneau and Gui Coquille.
T«fi aSXAGEXVARIijr, 77
A flirtation was commeiiced in due form ; and
a flag of mioe, offering to capitulate, was sent
in the shape of a bilIet*-doux. In the mean time
be regularly amused bis leisure hours by blowbg
kisses across the street with an old pair of bd*
lows. One afternoon, as he was occupied in
this way, a tall gentleman with whiskers stepped
into the room, just as. he had charged the bel^
lows to the muzzle, fie muttered something
about an explanation,*^ his sister, ^-^majriage,-^
and the satisfaction of a gentleman! Perhaps
there is no situation in life so awkward to a man
of real sensibility as that of being awed mto mat-
rimony or a duel by the whiskers of a tall broths
er. There was but one alternative ; and the
next morning a placard at the window of the
Bachelor of Love, with the words ^* Furnished
Apartment to let," showed that the former oc-
cupant had found it convenient to change lodg-
ings.
He next appeared in the Chaussee-d'Antin,
where he assiduously prepared himself for fu-
ture exigencies by a course of daily lessons in
the use of the smalI-sword« He soon after
quarrelled with his best j&ittid, about a httle ac-
tress on the Boulevard, and had the satisfaction
78 THE SEXAGENARIAN.
of being jOted, and then run through the body
at the Bois de Boulogne. This gave him new
£clat in the fashionable world, and consequently
he pursued pleasure with a keener relish than
ever. He next had the grande pcutsion^ and
narrowly escaped marrying an heiress of great
expectations, and a coundess number of cha-
teaux. Just before the catastrophe, however,
he had the good fortune to discover that the
lady's expectations were limited to his own pock-
et, and that, as for her chiteaux, they were all
Chateaux en Espagne.
About this time \n3 father died ; and the hope-
ful son was hardly well established in his inher-
itance, when the Revolution broke out. Unfor-
tunately, he was a firm upholder of the divine
right of kings, and had the honor of bemg amoi^
the first of the proscribed. He narrowly es-
caped the guillotme by jumping on board a ves-
sel bound for America, and arrived at Boston
with only a few francs in his pocket ; but, as he
knew how to accommodate himself to circumstan-
ces, he continued to live by teaching -fencing
and French, and keeping a dancmg-school and
a milliner. ^
At the restoration of the Bourbons, he returned
THE SEXAGENARIAN. 79
to France ; and from that time to the day of
our acquaintance had been engaged in a series
of vexatious hwsuits, in the hope of recovering
a portion of his proper^, which had been in-
trusted to a friend for safe keeping at the com-
mencement of the Revolution. His friend, how-
ever, denied all knowledge of the transaction,
and the assignment was very difficult to prove.
Twelve years of unsuccessful litigation had com-
pletely soured the old gentleman's temper, and
made him peevish and misanthrosic ; and he had
come to Auteiiil merely to escape the noise of
the city, and to brace his shattered nerves with
pure air and quiet amusements. There he idled
the time away, sauntering about the garden of
the maison de sante^ talkbg to himself when
he could get no other listener, and occasionally
reinforcing his misanthropy with a dose of the
Maxims of La Rochefoucauld, or a visit to the
scene of his duel in the Bois de Boulogne.
Poor Monsieur d'Argentville ! What a mis-
erable life he led, — or rather dragged on, from
day to day ! A petulant, broken-down old man,
who had outlived his fortune, and his friends,
and his hopes, — yea, every thing but the sting
of bad passions and the recollection of a life
80 THB SEXAQENARIAIV.
ill*-spent ! Whether he still walks the earth or
slumbers in its bosom, I know not ; but a lively
recollection of him will always mingle with my
reminiscences of Auteuil,
P^RE LA CHAISE.
Our fathen find their graves in oar short memories, and
sadly tell us how we may be buried in our survivors.
Oblivion is not to be hired. The greater part must be
content to be as though they had not been, — to be found in
the register of God, not in the record of man.
Sir Thomas Biiown*s Urn Burial.
The cemetery of Pere la Chaise is the West-
minster Abbey of Paris. Both are the dweD-
ings of the dead ; but in one they repose in
green alleys and beneath the open sky, -r- in the
other their resting-place is m the shadowy aisle,
and beneath the dim arches of an ancient abbey.
One is a temple of nature ; the other a temple
of art. In one, the soft melancholy of the scene
is rendered still more touchmg by the warble of
birds and the shade of trees, and the grave re-
ceives the gentle visit of the sunshme and the
shower : in the other, no sound but the passing
footfall breaks the silence of the place ; the twi-
light steals in through high and dusky windows ;
and the damps of tlie gloomy vault lie heavy on
6
82 PERE L4. CHAISE.
the beart, and leave their stain upon the moulder-
ing tracery of the tomb.
Pere la Chaise stands just beyond the Barriire
d'AuIney, on a hill-side, looking towards the
city. Numerous gravel-walks, winding through
shady avenues and between marble monuments,
lead up from the principal entrance to a chapel
on the summit. There is hardly a grave that
has not its little inclosure planted with shrub-
bery ; and a thick mass of foliage half conceals
each funeral stone. The sighing of the wind,
as the branches rise and fall upon it, — the oc-
casional note of a bird among the trees, and the
shifting of light and shade upon the tombs be-
neath, have a soothing effect upon the mind ; and
I doubt whether any one can ent^ that inclosure,
where repose the dust and ashes of so many great
and good men, without feeling the religion of
the place steal over him, and seeing something
of the dark and gloomy expression pass off from
the stem countenance of death.
It was near the close of a bright summer after-
noon that I visited this celebrated spot for the
first time. The first object that arrested my at-
tention, on entering, was a monument in the form
of a small Gothic chapel, which stands near the
PEKE LA. CHAISE. 83
-entrance, in the avenue leadbg to the right hand.
On the marble couch within are stretched two
.figures, carved in stone and dressed in the an-
tique garb of the Middle Ages. It is the tomb
of Abelard and Heloise. The history of these
unfortimate lovers is too well known to need
recapitulation ; but perhaps it is not so well
known how often their ashes were disturbed in
the slumber of the grave. Ab61ard died in the
monastery of Saint Marcel, and was buried in
the vaults of the church. His body was after-
ward removed to the convent of the Paraclet,
at the request of Heloise, and at her death her
body was deposited in the same tomb. Three
centuries they reposed together ; after which they
were separated to different sides of the church,
to calm the delicate scruples of the lady-abbess
of the convent. More than a century afterward,
they were again united b the same tomb ; and
when at length the Faraclet was destroyed, their
mouldering remains were transported to the
church of Nogent-sur-Seine. They were next
deposited in an ancient cloister at Paris ; and
now repose near the gateway of the cemetery
of Pere la Chaise. What a singular destiny was
theirs ! that, after a life of such passionate and dio-
84 PERE h^ CHAISE.
astrous love, — such sorrows, and tears, and pen-
itence, — their very dust should not be suffered
to rest quietly in the grave ! — that their death
should so much resemble their life in its changes
and vicissitudes, its partings and its meetbgs,
its inquietudes and its persecutions ! — diat mis-
taken zeal should follow them down to the very
tomb, — as if earthly passion could glimmer,
like a funeral lamp, amid the damps of the char-
nel-house, and ^^ even in their ashes bum their
wonted 6res ! "
As I gazed on the sculptured forms before
me, and the little chapel, whose Gothic roof
seemed to protect their marble sleep, my busy
memory swung back the dark portals of the
past, and the picture of their sad and eventful
lives came up before me in the gloomy distance.
What a lesson for those who are endowed with
the fatal gift of genius ! It would seem, bdeed,
that He who ^^ tempers the wind to the shorn
lamb" tempers also his chastisements to the
errors and infirmities of a weak and simple
mind, — while the transgressions of him upon
whose nature are more strongly marked the in-
tellectual attributes of the Deity are followed,
even upon earth, by severer tokens of the di-
PERG LA CHAISE. 85
vme displeasure. He who sms in the darkness
of a benighted mtellect sees not so clearly, through
the shadows that surround him, the countenance
of an offended God ; but he who sms in the
broad noonday of a clear and radiant mind,
when at length the delirium of sensual passion
has subsided, and the cloud flits away from be-
fore the sun, trembles beneath the searching eye
of that accusmg power which is strong in the
strength of a godlike intellect. Thus the mind
and the heart are closely linked together, and
the errors of genius bear with them their own
chastisement, even upon earth. The history
of Ab^lard and H61oise is an illustration of this
truth. But at length they sleep well. Their
lives are like a tale that is told ; their - errors
are '^ folded up like a book " ; and what mortal
hand shall break the seal that death has set upon
them ?
Leaving this interesting tomb behind me, I
took a pathway to the left, which conducted me
up the hill-side. I soon found myself in the
deep shade of heavy foliage, where the branches
of the yew and willow mingled, mterwoven with
the tendrils and blossoms of the honeysuckle.
I now stood in the most populous part of this
86 PERE LA CHAISE.
city of tombs. Every step awakened a new
train of thrilling recollections ; for at every step
my eye caught the name of some one whose
glory had exalted the character of his native
land, and resomided across the waters of the
Atlantic. Philosophers, historians, musicians,
warriors, and poets slept side by side around
me ; some beneath the gorgeous monument, and
some beneath the simple headstone. But the
political intrigue, the dream of science, the his-
torical research, the ravishing harmony of sound,
the tried courage, the inspiration of the Ijrre, —
where are they ? With the Kving, and not with
the dead ! The right hand has lost its cunning
in the grave ; but the soul, whose high volitions
it obeyed, still lives to reproduce itself in ages
yet to come.
Among these graves of genius I observed here
and there a splendid monument, which had been
raised by the pride of family over the dust of
men who could lay no claim either to the grat-
itude or remembrance of posterity. Their pres-
ence seemed like an intrusion .into the sanctuary
of genius. What had wealth to do there ? Why
should it crowd the dust of the great ? That
was no thoroughfare of business, —no mart of
PI^RB LA CHAISE. 87
gain ! There were no costly banquets there ;
no silken garments, nor gaudy liveries, nor ob-
sequious attendants ! '^ What servants," says
Jeremy Taylor, " shall we have to wait upon
us in the grave ? what friends to visit us ?
what officious people to cleanse away the moist
and unwholesome cloud reflected upon our faces
from the sides of the weepmg vaults, which are
the longest weepers for our funerals ? " Material
wealth gives a factitious superiority to the* living,
but the treasures of intellect give a real supe-
riority to the dead ; and the rich man, who would
not deign to walk the street with the starving
and penniless man of genius, deems it an honor,
when death has redeemed the fame of the neg-
lected, to have his own ashes laid beside him,
and to claim with him the silent companionship
of the grave.
I continued my walk through the numerous
winding paths, as chance or curiosity directed
me. Now I was lost in a little green hollow,
overhung with thick-leaved shrubbery, and then
came out upon an elevation, from which, through
an opening in the trees, the eye caught glimpses
of the ci^, and the little esplanade, at the foot
of (be hill, where the poor lie buried. There
88 PEKfi LA CHAISE.
poverty hires its grave, and takes but a short
lease of the narrow house* At the end of a
few months, or at most of a few years, the ten-
ant is dislodged to give place to another, and
he in turn to a third. " Who," says Sir Thom-
as Browne, ''knows the fate of his bones, or
how often he is to be buried ? Who hath the
oracle of his ashes, or whither they are to be
scattered ? "
Yet, even in that neglected comer, the hand
of affection had been busy in decoratmg the
hired house. Most of the graves were surround-
ed with a slight wooden paling, to secure them
from the passing footstep ; there was hardly
one so deserted as not to be marked with its
little wooden cross, and decorated with a gar-
land of flowers ; and here and there I could
perceive a solitary mourner, clothed in black,
stooping to plant a shrub on the grave, or sitting
in motionless sorrow beside it.
As I passed on, amid the shadowy avenues
of the cemetery, I could not help comparing
my own impressions with those which others have
felt when walking alone among the dwellings
of the dead. Are, then, the sculptured urn and
storied monument nothing more than symbols
PERE LA CHAISE, 89
of family pride ? Is all I see around me a me-
morial of the living more than of the dead, ^ an
^mpty show of sorrow, which thus vaunts itself
in mournful pageant and funeral parade ? Is
it indeed true, as some have said, that the simple
wild-flower, which springs spontaneously upon
the grave, and the rose, which the hand of afiee-
tion plants there, are fitter objects wherewith
to adorn the narrow house ? No ! I feel that
it is not so ! Let the good and the great be
honored even in the grave. Let the sculptured .
marble direct oiur footsteps to the scene of their
long sleep ; let the chiselled epitaph repeat their
names, and tell us where repose the nobly good
and wise ! It is not true that all are equal m
the grave. There is no equality even there.
The mere handful of dust and ashes, — the mere
distinction of prince and beggar, — of a rich
winding-sheet and a shroudless burial, — of a sol-
itary grave and a family vault, — were this all, -—
then, indeed,, it would be true that death is a
common leveller. Such paltry distinctions as
those of wealth and poverty are soon levelled
by the spade and mattock; the damp breath
of the grave blots them out for ever. But there
are other distmctions which even the mace of
90 PERE hk GHAISB.
death connot level or obliterate. Can it break
down the distinction of virtue and vice ? Can
it confound the good \iith the bad ? the noble
THth the base ? all that is trulj great, and pure,
and godlike, with all that is scorned, and sinful,
and degraded ? No ! Then death is not a
common leveUer ! Are all alike beloved in death
and honored m their burial ? Is that ground holy
where the bloody hand of the murderer sleeps
from crime ? Does every grave awaken the
• same emotions in our hearts ? and do the foot-
•
steps of the stranger pause as long beside each
funeral*-stone ? No ! Then all are not equal
in the grave ! And as long as the good and
evil deeds of men Hve after them, so long will
there be distinctions even in the grave. The
superiority of one over another is in the nobler
and better emotions which it excites ; in its more
fervent admonitions to 'virtue; in the livelier
recollection which it awakens of the good and
the great, whose bodies are crumbling to dust
beneath our feet !
If, then, there are distinctions in the grave,
surely it is not unwise to designate them by the
external marks of honor. These outward ap-
pliances and memorials of respect, — the mourn-
PBRE LA CHAISE. 91
fill urn, — the sculptured bust, — 'tbe epitaph
eloquent b praise, — cannot indeed create these
distinctions, but they serve to mark them. It
is only when pride or wealth builds them to honor
the slave of manmion or the slave of appetite,
when the voice from the grave rebukes the false
and pompous epitaph, and the dust and ashes
of the tomb seem struggling to maintain the su-
periority of mere worldly rank, and to cany
into the grave the bawbles of earthly vanity, —
it is then, and then only, that we feel how ut-.
terly worthless are all the devices of sculpture,
and the empty pomp of monumental brass !
After rambling leisurely about for some time,
reading the inscriptions on the various monuments
which attracted my curiosity, and giving way
to the different reflections they suggested, I sat
down to rest myself on a sunken tombstone.
A winding gravel-walk, overshaded by an avenue
of trees, and lined on both sides with richly
sculptured monuments, had gradually conducted
me to the summit of the hill, upon whose slope
the cemetery stands. Beneath me in the dis-
tance, and dim-discovered through the misty and
smoky atmosphere of evening, rose the countless
roofs and spires of the city. Beyond, throwmg
93 PKRE LA CHAISE.
his level rays athwart the dusky landscape, sank
the broad red sun. The distant murmur of the
city rose upon my ear ; and the toll of the even-
ing bell came up, mingled with the rattle of the
paved street and the confused sounds of labor.
What an hour for meditation ! What a con*
trast between the metropolis of the living and
the metropolis of the dead ! I could not help
calling to my mind that allegory of mortality ,~
written by a hand which has been many a long
year cold : —
^* Earth goeth upon earth as man upon mould,
Like as, earth upon earth never go should,
Earth goeth upon earth as glistening gold,
And yet shall earth unto earth rather than he would.
«
'* Lo, earth on earth, consider thou may.
How earth cometh to earth naked alwaj,
Why shall earth upon earth go stout or gay,
Since earth out of earth shall pass in poor array." *
* I subjoin this relic of old English verse entire, and in its
antiquated language, for those of my readers who may have
an antiquarian taste. It is copied from a book whose title
I have forgotten, and of which I have but a single leaf, con-
taining the poem. In describing the antiquities of the church
of Stratford-upon-Avon, the writer gives the following ac-
count of a very old painting upon the wall, and of the poem
which served as its motto. The painting is no longer visible,
having been effaced in repairing the church.
FERE LA CHAISE. 93
Before I left the graveTard the shades of even-
ing had fallen, and the objects around me grown
I I I I Ill .III . . .1 . ■ ^
** Against the west wall of the naye, on the south side
of the arch, was painted the martyrdom of Thomas-ii-Becket,
while kneeling at the altar of St. Benedict in Canterbury
cathedral ; below this was the figure of an angel, probably
St. Michael, supporting a long scroll, upon which were seven
stanzas in old English, being an allegory of mortality : —
" Erthe oute of Erthe ys wondurly wroght
Erth hath gotyn uppon erth a dygnyte of noght -
Erth ypon erth hath sett all hys thowht
How erth apon erth may be hey browght
*' Erth apon erth wold be a kyng
But how that e^h gott to erth he thyngkys nothyng
When erth byddys erth hys rentys whom bryng
Then schall erth apon erth have a hard ptyng
** Erth apon erth wynnys castellys and towrys
Then seth erth unto erth thys ys all owrys
When erth apon erth hath bylde hys bowrys
Then schall erth for erth suffur many hard schowrys
'* Erth goth apon erth as man apon mowld
Lyke as erth apon erth never goo schold
Erth goth apon erth as gelsteryng gold
And yet schall erth unto erth rather than he wold
^* Why that erth loveth erth wondur me thynke
Or why that erth wold for erth other swett or swynke
When erth apon erth ys broght wt.yn the brynke
Then schall erth apon erth have a fowll stynke
94 PJbRE hA CHAISE.
dim and indistinct. As I passed the gateway, I
turned to take a parting look. I could dbtin-
guish only the chapel on the summit of the hill,
and here and there a lofty obelisk of snow-white
marble, rismg from the black and heavy mass
of foliage around, and pointing upward to the
gleam of the departed sun, that still lingered in
the sky, and mingled with the soft starlight of
a sunmier evening.
*' Lo erth on erth consedur thow may
How erth comyth to erth nakyd all way
Why schall erth apoo erth goo stowte or gay
Seth erth owt of erth schall passe yn poor aray
^ I cooDiill erth apon erth that ys wondorly wrogt
The whyl yt. erth ys apon erth to torne hys thowht
And pray to god upon erth yt. all erth wroght
That all crystyn soullys to ye. blys may be broght
^'BiBneath were two men, holding a scroll over a body
wrapped in a winding-sheet, and covered with some emblems
of mortality/' &c.
THE
VALLEY OF THE LOIRE.
Je ne coD^ois qu'une maniire de vojager plus agitable
que d*aller k cheval) c'est d'aller k pied. On part k son
moment, on s'arrdte k aa volont^, on fait tant et n pea d*exer-
ciae qu'on veut.
Quand on ne veut qu*arriver, on pent courir en chaise de
potte ; maia quand on Tout voyager, il &ut aller a pied.
Rousseau.
In the beautiful month of October, I made a
foot excursion along the banks of the Loire,
from Orleans to Tours. This luxuriant re^on
b justly called the garden of France. From
Orleans to Blois, the whole valley of the Loire
is one continued vineyard. The bright green
foliage of the vine spreads, like the undulations
of the sea, over all the landscape, with here
and there a silver flash of the river, a seques-
tered hamlet, or the towers of an old chateau,
to enliven and variegate the scene.
The vintage had already commenced. The
peasantry were busy in the fields, — the song
that cheered their labor was on the breeze, and
96 THE VALLEY OF THE LOIRE.
the heavy wagon tottered by, laden with the clus-
ters of the vine. Every thing around me wore
that happy look which makes the heart glad.
In the morning I arose with the lark ; and at
night I slept where sunset overtook me. The
healthy exercise of foot-travelling, the pure,
bracing air of autumn, and the cheerful aspect
of the whole landscape about me, gave fresh
elasticity to a mind not overburdened with care,
and made me fo^et not only the fatigue of
walking, but also the consciousness of being
alone.
My first day^s journey brought me at evening
to a village, whose name I have forgotten, sit-^
uated about eight leagues from Orleans. It is a
smaU, obscure hamlet, not mentioned in the
guide-book, and stands upon the precipitous
banks of a deep ravine, through which a noisy
brook leaps down to turn the ponderous wheel
of a thatch-roofed mill. The village inn stands
upon the highway ; but the village itself is not
visible to the traveller as he passes. It is comr
pletely hidden in the lap of a wooded valley,
and so embowered in trees that not a roof nor a
chimney peeps out to betray its hiding-place.
It is Uke the nest of a ground-swallow, which
TH& YALLEt OF THfi L0IRB« 97
the passing footstep almost treads upon, and yet
it is not seen. I passed by without suspecting
that a village was near ; and the little inn had
a look so uninviting that I did not even enter it.
After proceeding a mile or two farther, I per«
ceived, upon my left, a village spire rising over
the vineyards. Towards this I directed my foot-
steps ; but it seemed to recede as I advanced^
and at last quite disappeared. It was evidently
many miles distant ; and as the path I followed
descended from the highway, it had gradually
sunk beneath a swell of the vine-clad landscape.
I now found myself in the midst of an extensive
vineyai'd. It was just sunset ; and the last gold-
en rays lingered on the rich and mellow scenery
around me. The peasantry were still busy at
their task ; and the occasbnal bark of a dog,
and the distant sound of an evening bell, gave
fresh romance to the scene. The reality of
many a day*dream of childhood, of many a
poetic revery of youth, was before me. I stood
at sunset amid the luxuriant vineyards of France !
The 6rst person I met was a poor old woman,
a litde bowed down with age, gathering grapes
into a lai^e basket. She was dressed like the
poorest class of peasantry, and pursued her sol-
7
98 THE VALLKT OF THE LOIRE.
itary task alone, heedless of the cheerful gossip
and the merry laugh which came from a band
of more youthful vintagers at a short distance
from her. She was so mtently engaged in her
work, that she did not perceive my approach until
I bade her good evening. On hearing my voice,
she looked up from her labor, and returned the
salutation ; and, on my asking her if there were
a tavern or a farm4iouse m the neighbourhood
where I could pass the night, she showed me
the pathway through the vineyard that led to
the village, and then added, with a look of cu-
riosity, —
'^ You must be a stranger. Sir, m these parts."
" Yes ; my home is very far from here."
" How far ? "
" More than a thousand leagues."
The old woman looked incredulous.
^' I came from a distant land beyond the sea."
^' More than a thousand leagues ! " at length
repeated she ; '^ and why have you come so
far from home ? "
"To travel; — to see how you Hve in this
country."
" Have you no relations m your own ? "
" Yes ; I have both brothers and sisters, a
father and "
THE VALLEY OF THE LOIRE. 99
" And a mother ? "
" Tbank Heaven, I have. "
" And did you leave her ? "
Here the old woman gave me a piercing look
of reproof; shook her head mournfully, and, with
a deep sigh, as if some painful recollection^ had
been awakened in her bosom, turned again to her
solitary task. I felt rebuked ; for there is some-
thmg almost prophetic m the admonitions of the
old. The eye of age looks meekly into my
heart ! the voice of age echoes mournfully tfarougli
it ! the hoary head and palsied hand of age plead
irresistibly for its sympathies ! I venerate old
age ; and I love not the man who can look with-
out emotion upon the sunset of life, when the
dusk of evemng begins to gather over the wa-
tery eye, and the shadows of twilight grow broad-
er and deeper upon the understanding !
I pursued the pathway which led towards the
village, and the next person I encountered was
an old man, stretched lazily beneath the vines
upon a litde strip of turf, at a point where four
paths met, forming a crossway in the vineyard.
He was clad in a coarse garb of gray, with a
pair of long gaiters or spatterdashes. Beside
him lay a blue cloth cap, a staff, and an old
100 THB TALLET OF THE LOIRE.
weather-beaten knapsack. I saw at once that
he was a foot-traveller £ke mjself, and therefore,
without more ado, entered into conversation with
him. From his language, and the peculiar man-
ner in which he now and then wiped his upper
lip with the back of hb hand, as if in search
of the mustache which was no longer there, I
juiced that he had been a soldier. In this opin-
ion I was not mistaken. He had served under
Napoleon, and had followed the imperial eagle
across the Alps, and the Pyrenees, and' the
burning sands of Egypt. Like every vieilk
mofutaehe^ he spake with enthusiasm of the Little
Corporal, and cursed the English, the Germans,
the Spanish, and every other race on earth, ex-
cept the Great Nation, -^hb own.
^^ I like,'' said he, ^^ after a long day's march,
to lie down in this way upon the ^ass, and en-
joy the cool of the evening. It reminds me of
the bivouacs of other days, and of old friends
who are now up there."
Here he pomted with his finger to the sky.
'^ They have reached the last itape before
me, in the long march. But I shall go soon.
We shall all meet agam at the last roll-call.
Sacre nom de -— ! There 's a tear ! "
THS YALLIiY OF TBfi LOIKC 101
He wiped it awajr with fab sleeve^
Here our colloquy was interrupted by the tpf
I»poach of a group of vintagers, who were re-
turning homeward from their labor. To this
party I joined myself, and invited the old soldier
to do the same ; but be shook his head.
^' I thank you ; my pathway lies in a difiiorent
direction."
^^ But there is no other village near, and the
sun has already set«"
^^'No matter. I am used to sleeping on the
ipround. Good night."
I left the old man to his meditations, and
walked on in company with the vintagers. Fol*
lowing a well trodden pathway through the vine*
yards, we soon deseeded the valley's slope, and
I suddenly found myself in the bosom of one
of those little hamlets from which the laborer
rises to his toil as the skylark to his song. My
companions wished me a good night, as each
entered his own thatch-roofed cottage, and a
little girl led me out to the very inn which an
hour or two before I had disdained to enter.
When I awoke in the morning, a brilliant au^
tumnal sun was shining in at my window. The
merry song of birds mbgled sweetly with the
102 TBE VALLBT OF TBE LOIRE.
sound of rustling leaves and the gurgle of the
brook. The vintagers were going forth to their
toil ; the wine-press was busy in the shade, and
the clatter of the mill kept time to the miller's
song. I loitered about the village with a feeling
of calm delight. I was unwilling to leave the
seclusion of this sequestered hamlet ; but at length,
with reluctant step, I took the cross-road through
the vineyard, and in a moment the little village
had sunk again, as if by enchantment, into the
bosom of the earth.
I breakfasted at the town of Mer ; and, leaving
the high-road to Blois on the right, passed down
to the banks of the Loire, through a long, broad
avenue of poplars and sycamores. I crossed the
river in a boat, and in the after part of the day I
found myself before the high and massive walls
of the chateau of Chambord. This chateau is
one of the finest specimens of the ancient Goihic
castle to be found in Europe. The little river
Cosson fills its deep and ample moat, and above
it the huge towers and heavy battlements rise
in stem and solemn grandeur, moss-grown with
age, and blackened by the storms of three cen-
turies. Within, all is mournful and deserted.
The grass has overgrown the pavement of the
THE VALLEY OF THE LOIRE. 103
cburtjard, and the rude sculpture upon the walls
is broken and defaced. From the courtyard
I entered the central tower, and, ascending ihe
principal staircase, went out upon the battlements.
I seemed to have stepped back into the pre-
cincts of the feudal ages ; and, as I passed along
through echoing corridors, and vast^ deserted
halls, stripped of their furniture, and mouldering
silently away, the distant past came back upon
me ; and the times when the clang of arms, and
the tramp of mail-clad men, and the sounds of
music and revehry and wassail, echoed along
those high-vaulted and solitary chambers !
My third day's journey brought me to the
ancient city of Blois, the chief town of the de-
partment of Loire-et-Cher. This city is cel-
ebrated for the purity with which even the lower
classes of its inhabitants speak their native tongue.
It rises precipitously from the northerii bank
of the Loire ; and many of its streets are so
steep as to be almost impassable for carriages.
On the brow of the hill, overlooking the roofs
of the city, and commanding a fine view of the
Loire and its noble bridge, and the surrounding
country, sprinkled with cottages and chateaux,
runs an ample terrace, planted with trees, and
104 THB YALLET OF THE LOIRE.
laid out as a public walk. The view from tfak
terrace is one of the most beautiful in France.
But what most strikes the eye of the traveller
at Blois is an old, though still unfinbhed, castle.
Its huge parapets of hewn stone stand upon either
side of the street ; but they have walled up the
wide gateway, from which the colossal drawbridge
was to have sprung high in air, connecting to-
gether the main towers of the building, and the
two hiUs upon whose slope its foundations stand.
The aspect of this vast pile is gloomy and des-
olate. It seems as if the strong hand of the
builder had been arrested in the midst of his
task by the stronger hand of death ; and the
unfinished fabric stands a lasting monument both
of the power and weakness of man, — of his vast
desires, his sanguine hopes, his ambitious pur-
poses, — and of the unlooked-for conclusion,
where all these desires, and hopes, and purposes
are so often arrested. There is also at Blois
another ancient chateau, to which some historic
interest is attached, as being the scene of the
massacre of the Duke of Guise.
On the following day, I left Blois for Amboise ;
and, after walking several leagues along the dus^
highway, crossed the river in a boat to the little
TBE TALLET OF THE LOIRE, lOS
viUage of Moines^ which lies amid Iiauriant
vineyards upon the southern bank of the Loire.
From Moines to Amboise the road is truly de*
Kghtful. The rich lowland scenery> by the mar*
gin of the river, is verdant even in October ;
and occasionally the landscape is diversified msb
the picturesque cottages of the vintagers, cut in
the rock along the road-side, and overhung by
the thick foli^^e of the vines above them.
At Amboise I took a cross-road, which led me
to the romantic borders of the Cher and the
chateau of Chemanceau. This beautiful chateau,
as well as that of Chambord, was built by the
gay and munificent Francis the First. One is a
specimen of strong and massive architecture, -^
a dwelling* for a warrior ; but the other is of a light-*
er and more graceful construction, and was des-
tbed for those soft languishments of passion with
which the fascinating Diane de Poitiers had filled
the bosom of that voluptuous monarch.
The chateau of Chemanceau is built upon
arches across the river Cher, whose waters are
made to supply the deep moat at each extremity*
There is a spacious courtyard in firont, from
which a drawbridge conducts to the outer hall
of the casde. There the armor of Francis the
106 THE VALLET OF THE LOIRE.
First still hangs upon the wall, — his shield, and
helm, and lance, — as if the chivalrous but disso-
lute prince had just exchanged them for the silken
robes of the drawing-room. From this hall a
door opens mto a long gallery, extending the
whole length of the building across the Cher.
The walls of the gallery are hung with the faded
portraits of the long Ime of the descendants of
Hugh Capet; and the windows, looking up and
down the stream, command a fine reach of pleas*
ant river scenery. This is said to be the only
ch&teau in France in which the ancient furniture
of its original age is preserved. In one part
of the building, you are shown the bed-chamber
of Diane de Poitiers, with its antique chairs
covered with faded damask and embroidery, her
bed, and a portrait of the royal favorite hanging
over the mantelpiece. In another you see the
apartment of the infamous Catherine de' Medici ;
a venerable arm-chair and an autograph letter
of Henry the Fourth ; and in an old laboratory,
among broken crucibles, and neckless retorts, and
drums, and trumpets, and skins of wild beasts,
and other ancient lumber of various Idnds, are to
be seen the bed-posts of Francis the First.
Doubtless the naked walls and the vast solitary
THE YALLET OF THE LOIEE. 107
•
chambers of an old and desolate chateau inspire a
feeling of greater solemnity and awe ; but when
the antique furniture of the olden time remains, —
the faded tapestiy on the walls, and the arm-chair
by the fireside, — the effect upon the mind is
more magical and delightful. The old inhabitants
of the place, long gathered to their fathers, though
living still in history, seem to have left their halls
for the chase or the tournament; and as the
heavy door swings upon its reluctant hinge, one
almost expects to see the gallant princes and
courtly dames enter those halls agam, and sweep
in stately procession along the silent corridors.
Rapt in such fancies as these, and gazing on
the beauties of this noble edifice, and the soft
scenery around it, I lingered, unwilling to depart,
till the rays of the setting sun, streaming through
the dusty wmdows, admonished me that the day
was drawing rapidly to a close. I sallied forth
from the southern gate of the ch&teau, and,
crossing the broken drawbridge, pursued a path-
way along the bank of the river, still gazing back
upon those towering walls, now bathed in the
rich glow of sunset, till a turn b the road and a
clump of woodland at length shut them out from
my sight.
108 TBS YALLST OF THS LOI»B,
A short time after candle-ligbtu^, I reached
the little tavern of the Bode d'Or, a few lei^ues
from Tours, where I passed the night. The
following morning was lowering and sad. A vdl
of mist hung over the landscape, and ever and
anon a heavy shower burst from the overburdened
clouds, that were driving by before a Ugh and
piercbg wind. This unpropitious state of the
weather detained me until noon, when a ca*
briolet for Tours drove up ; and taking a seat
within it, I left the hostess of the Boule d'Or
in the middle of a long story about a rich count-
ess, who always alighted there when she passed
that way. We drove leburely along through
a beautiful country, liU at lei^h we came tor
the brow of a steep hiU, which commands a fin^
view of the city of Tours and its delightful egor
virons. But the scene was shrouded by the
heavy drifting mist, through which I could trace
but mdistmctly the graceful sweep of the Loire^
and the spires and roofs of the city far below me.
The city of Tours and the delicious plain in
which it lies have been too often described by
other travellers to render a new description,
from so listless a paa as mine, either necessaiy
or desirable. After a sojourn of two cloudy
THE YALLET OF THE LOIRE. 109
and melancholy days, I set out on my return
to Paris, by the way of Vendome and Chartres.
I stopped a few hours at the former place, to
examine the ruins of a ch&teau buih by Jeanne
d'Albret, mother of Henry the Fourth. It stands
upon the summit of a high and precipitous hill,
and almost overhangs the town beneath. The
French Revolution has completed the ruin that
time had already begun ; and nothing now remains,
but a broken and crumblbg bastion, and here
and there a solitary tower dropping slowly to
decay. In one of these is the grave of Jeanne
d'Albret. A marble entablature in the wall
above contains the mscription, which is nearly
effaced, though enough still remains to tell the
curious traveller that there lies buried the mother
of the " Bon Henri." To this is added a
prayer that the repose of the dead may be re-
spected.
Here ended my foot excursion. The object
of my journey was accomplished ; and, delighted
with this short ramble through the valley of the
Loire, I took my seat m the diligence for Paris,
and on the following day was again swallowed
up in the crowds of the metropolis, like a drop
in the bosom of the sea*
THE TROUVi]RES.
duant recommence et reyient biaux estez,
Q,ue foille et flor resplendit par boechage,
due li froiz tanz de TfajTer est passez,
£t cil oisel chantent en lor langage,
Lors chanterai
Et enyoiaiez serai
De cuer verai.
Ja^ues de Chisov.
The literature of France is peculiarly rich in
poetry of the olden time. We can trace up the
stream of song until it is lost in the deepening
shadows of the Middle Ages. Even there it is
not a shallow tinkling rill ; but it comes like a
mountain stream, rushing and sounding onward
through the enchanted regions of romance, and
mingles its voice with the tramp of steeds and the
brazen sound of arms.
The glorious reign of Charlemagne,* at the
* The following amusing description of this Restorer of
Letters, as his biographers call him, is taken from the fab-
ulous Chronicle of John Turpin, Chap. XX.
^ The emperor was of a ruddj complexion, with brown
THE TROUVERES. Ill
close of the eighth and the commencement of the
ninth century, seems to have breathed a spirit of
learning as well as of chivalry throughout all
France. The monarch established schools and
academies in different parts of his realm, and took
delight in the society and conversation of learned
men. It is amusing to see with what evident self-
satisfaction some of the magi whom he gathered
around him speak of their exertions in widening
the sphere of human knowledge, and pouring in
light upon the darkness of their age. ^^ For
hair ; of a well made, handsome form, but a stern yisage.
His height was about eight of his own feet, which were very
long. He was of a strong, robust make ; his legs and thighs
very stout, and his sinews firm. His face was thirteen inch-
es long ; his beard a palm ; his nose half a palm ; his fore-
head a foot over. His lion-like eyes flashed fire like car-
buncles ; his eyebrows were half a palm over. When he
was angry, it was a terror to look upon him. He required
eight spans for his girdle, besides what hung loose. He ate
sparingly of bread ; but a whole quarter of lamb, two fowls,
a goose, or a large portion of pork ; a peacock, a crane, or a
whole hare. He drank moderately of wine and water. He
was so strong, that he could at a single blow cleave asunder
an armed soldier on horseback, from the head to the waist,
and the horse likewise. He easily vaulted over fi>ur horses
harnessed together ; and could raise an armed man fi^m the
ground to his head, as he stood erect upon his hand."
113 THE TftOVTIBEKS.
some," says AlcuiO) the director of the school
of St. Martin da Tours, ^^ I cause the honey
of the Holy Scriptures to flow ; I mtoxicate
others with the old wine of ancient history ; these
I nourish with the fruits of grammar, gathered
by my own hands ; and those I enlighten by
pointing out to them the stars, like lamps attached
by the vaulted ceiling of a great palace ! "
Besides this classic erudition of the schoolS)
the age had also its popular literature. Those
who were untaught in scholastic wisdom were
learned in traditionary lore; for they had their
ballads, in which were described the valor and
achievements of the early kings of the Franks^
These ballads, of which a collection was made
by order of Charlemagne, animated the rude
soldier as he rushed to battle, and were sung in
the midnight bivouacs of the camp. ^' Perhaps
it is not too much to say," observes the literary
historian Schlegel, " that we have still in our
possession, if not the original language and form,
at least the substance, of many of those ancient
poems which were collected by the orders of that
prince ; — I refer to the Nibelungenlied, and
the collection which goes by the name of the
Heldenbuch."
THE TE0UTERE8. 113
When at length the old Tudesque language,
which was the court language of Charlemagne,
had given place to the Langue d'Oil, the northern
dialect of the French Romance, these ancient bal-
lads passed from the memories of the descendants
of the Franks, and were succeeded by the roman-
ces of Charlemagne and his Twelve Peers,—
of Rowland, and Olivir, and the other paladins
who died at Roncesvalles. Robert Wace, a
Norman Trouvere of the twelfth century, says
in one of his poems, that a mmstrel named Tail-
lefer, mounted on a swift horse, went in front
of the Nonnan afmy at the batde of Hastings,
smgii^ these ancient poems.
These Chansom de Gestt^ or old historic n>
mances of France, are epic in their character,
though, without doubt, they were written to be
chanted to the sound of an instrument. To what
period many of them belong, in their present
form, has never yet been fully determined ; and
should it finally be proved by philological research
that they can claim no tugher antiquity than the
twelfth or thirteenth century, still there can be
little doubt that in their original form many of
them reached &r back into the ninth or tenth.
The long prevalent theory, that the romances of
8
114 THE TEOUYEREB.
the Twelve Peers of France all origiiiated in
the fabulous chronicle of Charlemagne and Row-
land, written bjr the Archbishop Turpin in the
twelfth century, if not as yet generally exploded,
is nevertheless fast losing ground.
To the twelfth and thirteenth centuries also be-
long most of the Fabliaux, or metrical tales of the
Trouveres. Many of these compositions are re-
markable for the inventive talent they display, but
as poems they have, generally speaking, little
merit, and at times exhibit such a want of refine-
ment, such open and gross obscenity, as to be
highly offensive.
It is a remarkable circumstance in the literary
history of France, that, while her antiquarians and
scholars have devoted themselves to collecting
and illustrating the poetry of the Troubadours,
the early lyric poets of the South, that of the
Trouveres, or Troubadours of the North, has
been almost entirely neglected. By a sbgular
fatality, too, what little time and attention have
hitherto been bestowed upon the fathers of French
poetry have been so directed as to save from
oblivion little of the most valuable portions of
their writings ; while the more tedious and worth-
less parts have been brought forth to the public
THE TR0UYERE8. 115
eye, as if to deaden curiosity, and put an end
to further research. The ancient historic roman-
ces of the land have, for the most part, been left
to slumber unnoticed ; while the obscene and
tiresome Fabliaux have been ushered into the
world as fair specimens of the ancient poetry
of France. This has created unjust prejudices
in the minds of many against the literature of the
olden time, and has led them to regard it as noth-
ing more than a confused mass of coarse and
vulgar fictions, adapted to a rude and inelegant
state of society.
Of late, however, a more discerning judgment
has been brought to the difficult task ot ancient
research ; and, m consequence of this, the long-
established prejudices agamst the crumbling mon-
uments of the national literature of France during
the Middle Ages is fast disappearing. Several
learned men are engaged in rescuing from ob-
livion the ancient poetic romances of Charle-
magne and the Twelve Peers of France, and
theu: labors seem destined to throw new light,
not only upon the state of literature, but upon the
state of society, during the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries.
Among the voluminous remains of Troubadour
116 THE TROUVEREB.
literature, little else has yet been discovered than
poems of a lyric character. The lyre of the
Troubadour seems to have responded to the im-
pulse of momentary feehngs only, -<— to the touch
of local and transitory circumstances. His song
was a sudden burst of excited feeling ; — it ceased
when the passion was subdued, or rather when
its 6rst feverish excitement passed away ; and
as the liveliest feelings are the most transitory,
the songs which embodied them are short, but
fuU of spirit and energy. On the other hand, the
great mass of the poetry of the Trouveres is
of a narrative or epic character. The genius of
the Norm seems always to have delighted in ro*
mantic fiction ; and whether we attribute the or-
igin of modem romance to the Arabians or to
the Scandinavians, this at least is certain, that
there existed marvellous tales m the Northern
languages, and from these, in part at least, the
Trouveres imbibed the spirit of narrative poetry.
There are no traces of lyric compositions among
their writings, till about the commencement of the
thirteenth century ; and it seems probable thajt
the spirit of song-writmg was imbibed from the
Troubadours of the South.
Unfortunately, the neglect which has so long
THE TROVViRES. 117
attended tbe old historic and heroic romances
of the. North of France has also befallen in some
degree its earty lyric poetry. Little has yet been
done to discover and bring forth its riches ; and
doubtless many a sweet little ballad and melan-
choly complaint lies buried in the dust <^ the thii-
teenth century. It is not, however, my object,
in this paper, to give a historical sketch of this
ancient and almost forgotten poetry, but sim-
ply to bring forward a few specimens which shaU
exhibit its most striking and obvious character-
istics.
In these examples it would be in vaii)^to look
for high-wrought expression suited to the pre-
vailing taste of the present day. Their most
striking peculiarity, and perhaps their greatest
merit, consists in the simple and direct expression
of feeling which they contain. This feeling,
too, is one which breathes the languor of that
subnussive homage which was paid to beauty
in the days of chivalry ; and I am aware, that, in
this age of masculine and matter-of-fact thinking,
the lovc-conceits of a more poetic state of society
are generally looked upon as extremely trivial
and puerile. Nevertheless I shall venture to
present one or ti^o of these simple ballads, whicb^
118 THE TROUvtRES.
by recalling the distant age wherein they were
composed, may peradventure please by the power
of contrast.
I have just remarked that bne of the greatest
beauties of these ancient ditties is naVvet^ of
thought and simplicity of expression. These I
shall endeavour to preserve as far as possible in
the translation, though I am fully conscious how
much the sparkling beauty of an original loses in
being filtered through the idioms of a foreign
language.
The favorite theme of the ancient lyric poets
of the North of France is the wayward passion
of love. They all delight to sing " les doucea do-
lors et li mal plaisant define amor.^^ With such
feelings the beauties of the opening spring are
naturally associated. Almost every love-ditty
of the old poets commences with some such
exordium as this : — " When the snows of winter
have passed away, when the soft and gentle spring
returns, and the flower and leaf shoot in the
groves, and the little birds warble to their mates
in their own sweet language, — then will I sing
my lady-love ! "
Another favorite mtroduction to these little
rhapsodies of romantic passion is the approach
THE TROUVERES. 119
of morning and its sweet-voiced herald, the lark.
The minstrel's song to his lady-love frequently
commences with an allusion to the hour
" When the rose-bud opes its een,
And the bluebells droop and die,
And upon the leaves so green
Sparkling dew-drops lie."
The following is at once the simplest and pret-
tiest piece of this kind which I have met with
among the early lyric poets of the North of
France. It is taken from an anonymous poem,
entitled " The Paradise of Love." A lover,
havbg passed the ^ livelong night m tears, as
he was wont," goes forth to heguile his sorrows
with the fragrance and beauty of morning. The
carol of the vaultmg skylark salutes his ear, and
to this meny musician he makes his complaint.
Hark! hark!
Pretty lark !
Little heedest thou my pain 1
But if to these longing arms
Pitying Love would yield the charms
Of the fair
With smiling air,
Blithe would beat my heart again.
130 THE TROUYEESS.
Hark! bark!
Pretty lark !
Little heedest thou my pain !
Lore may force me still to bear,
While he lists, consuming care ;
But in anguish
Though I languish.
Faithful shall my heart remain.
Hark! hark!
Pretty lark !
Little beedest thou my pain !
Then cease, Love, to torment me so ;
But rather than all thoughts forego
Of thefiur
With fhixen hair,
GiTe me back her frowns again.
Hark ! hark !
Pretty lark I
Little keedest thou my pain !
Besides the ^^wofi^l balhd made to his mis-
tress's eyebrow," the early lyric poet frequently
indulges in more calmly analy:dng the philosophy
of love, or in questioning the object and des*
tination of a sigh. Occasionally these quaint
conceits are prettily expressed, and the little
song flutters through the page like a butterfly.
The following is an example.
THE TROUT^RSS. 121
And whither goest thcni, geiill« sigh,
Breathed so softly in my ear ?
Say, dost thou bear his fate severe
To Love's poor martyr doomed to die ?
Come, tell me qnidsly, — do not lie ; ^
What secret message bring'st thou here ?
And whither goest thou, gentle sigh,
Breathed so softly in my ear ?
May Heaven conduct thee to thy will.
And safely speed thee on thy way ;
This only I would humbly pray, —
Pierce deep, — but, O ! forbear to kill.
And whither goest thou, gentle sigh.
Breathed so softly in my ear ?
The ancient lyric poets of France are gener^
ally spoken of as a class, and their beauties and
defects referred to them collectively, and not
individually. In truth, there are few charac-
teristic marks by which any mdividual author
can be smgled out and ranked above the rest.
The lyric poets of the thirteenth and fourteenth
centuries stand upon nearly the same level. But
in the fifteenth century there were two who sur-
passed aU their contemporaries in the beauty and
delicacy of their sentiments ; and in the sweet-
ness of their diction, and the structure of their
verse, stand far in advance of the age m which
122 THE TftOUTERES.
tbey lived. These are Charles d'Qrleans and
ClotOde de Sunrille.
Charles, Duke of Orleans, the father of Louis
the l^welfth, and uncle of Francis the First, was
bom in 1391. In the general tenor of his life,
the peculiar character of his mind, and his talent
for poetry, there is a striking resemblance be-
tween this noble poet and James the First of
Scotland, his contemporary. Both were re-
markable for learning and refinement ; both passed
a great portion of their lives in sorrow and
imprisonment; and both cheered the solitude
of their prison-walls with the charms of poetry^
Charles d'Orl6ans was taken prisoner at the battle
of Agmcourt, m 1415, and carried mto England,
where he remamed twenty-five years in captivity.
It was there that he composed the greater part
of his poetry.
The poems of this writer exhibit a singular
delicacy of thought and sweetness of expres-
sion. The following little Renouveaux, or songs
on the return of spring, are full of delicacy and
beauty.
Now Time throws off his cloak again
Of ermined frost, and wind, and rain.
And clothes him in the embroidery
Of glittering son and clear blue sky.
THE TROUYERES. 123
With beaflt and bird the forest rings,
Each in his jargon cries or sings ;
And Time throws off his cloak again
Of ermined frost, and wind, and rain.
River, and fount, and tinkling brook
Wear in their dainty livery
Drops of silver jewelry ;
In new-made suit they merry look ;
And Time throws off his cloak again
Of ermined frost, and wind, and rain.
The second upon the same subject presents a
still more agreeable picture of the departure of
winter and the return of spring.
Gentle spring ! — in sunshine clad,
Well dost thou thy power display !
For winter maketh the light heart sad,
And thou, — thou makest the sad heart gay.
He sees thee, and calls to his gloomy train.
The sleet, and the snow, and the wind, and the rain;
And they shrink away, and they flee in fear,
When thy merry step draws near.
Winter giveth the fields and the trees so old
Their beards of icicles and snow ;
And the rain, it raineth so &st and cold.
We must cower over the embers low ;
And, snugly housed from the wind and weather.
Mope like birds that are changing feather.
But the storm retires, and the sky grows clear.
When thy merry step draws near.
124 THE TROVTKRXS.
Winter maketh the sun in the gloomy sky
Wrap him lound in a mantle of cloud:;
But, Hearen be praised, thy atep is niflt;
Thou teareit away the mournful shroud,
And the earth looks bright, — and winter surly.
Who has toiled for naught both late and early,
Is banished afar by the new-bom year.
When thy merry step drawa near.
The only person of that age who can dispute
the laurel with Charles d'Orleans is Clotilde de
Sunrille. This poetess was bom in the Bas-Vi-
varais, in the year 1405. Her style is singularly
elegant and correct ; and the reader who will take
the trouble to decipher her rude provincial or-
thography, will find her writings full of quiet
beauty. The following lines, which breathe the
very soul of maternal tenderness, are part of a
poem to her first-bom.
Sweet babe ! true portrait of thy &ther's face.
Sleep on the bosom that thy lips have pressed !
Sleep, little one ; and closely, gently place
Thy drowsy eyelid on thy mother's breast !
Upon that tender eye, my little friend.
Soft sleep shall come that cometh not to me !
1 watch to see thee, nourish thee, defend ; — -
*T is sweet to watch for thee, — alone fbr thee !
THE TROmriEfiS* 125
His arms fall dewn ; sleep aits upon kit brow ;
His «ye is closed ; he sleeps, — liow still and c^lm !
Wore not his cheek the apple's ruddy glow,
Would you not say he slept on death's cold arm ?
Awake, my boy ! — I tremble with afiright !
Awake, and chase this fatal thought t — unclose
Thine eye but for one moment on the light !
Even at the price of tlune, giv« me repose t
Sweet error ! — he but slept ; — I breathe again ; —
Come, gentle dreams, the hour of sleep beguile !
O, when shall he for whom I sigh in vain
Beside me watch to see thy waking smile ?
But upon this theme I have written enough,
perhaps too much.
'* * This may be poetry, for aught I know.
Says an old, worthy friend of mine, while leaning
Over my shoulder as I write, — * although
I can't exactly comprehend its meaning.' "
I have touched upon the subject before me
b a brief and desultory manner, and have pur-
posely left my. remarks unencumbered by learned
reference and far-sought erudition ; for these are
ornaments which would ill become so trivial a
pen as this wherewith I write, though, perchance,
the want of them will render my essay unsat-
126 THE TROUYERES.
isfactory to the scholar and the critic. But I
am emboldened thus to skim with a light wing
over this poetic lore of the past, bj the reflec-
tion, that the greater part of mjr readers belong
not to that grave and serious class who love
the deep wisdom which lies in quoting from a
quaint, forgotten tome, and are ready (» all occa-
sions to say, ^^ Commend me to the owl ! "
THE
BAPTISM OF FIRE
The more you mow us down, the thicker we rise ; the
Christian blood you spill is like the seed you som — it
springs from the earth again and fructifies the more.
Tertullian.
As day was drawing to a close, and tbe rays
of the setting sun climbed slowly up the dungeon
wall, the prisoner sat and read in a tome with
silver clasps. He was a man in the vigor of his
days, with a pale and noble countenance, that
wore less the marks of worldly care than of high
and holy thoug]}t. His temples were already
bald ; but a thick and curling beard bespoke the
strength of manhood ; and his eye, dark, full, and
eloquent, beamed with all the enthusiasm of a
martyr.
The book before him was a volume of the
early Christian Fathers. He was reading the
Apologetic of the eloquent Tertullian, the oldest
and ablest writer of the Latin Church. At times
he paused, and raised his eyes to heaven as if in
138 THE BAPTISM OF FIRE.
prayer, and then read on again in silence. At
length a passage seemed to touch his inmost soul.
He read aloud : —
^^ Give us, then, what names you please ; from
the instruments of cruelty you torture us by, call
us Sarmenticians and Semaxians, because you
fasten us to trunks of trees, and stick us about
witl^ fagots to set us on fire ; yet let me tell you,
when we are thus begirt and dressed about with
fire, we are then in our most illustrious apparel.
These are our victorious palms and robes of
glory ; and, mounted on our funeral pile*, we look
upon ourselves in our triumphal chariot. No
wonder, then, such passive heroes please not
those they vanquish with such conquering sufifer-
ings. And therefore we pass for men of de-
spair, and violently bent upon orn^ own destruction.
However, what you are pleased to call madness
and despair in us are the very actions which,
under virtue's standard, lift up your sons of fame
and glory, and emblazon them to future ages."
He arose and paced the dungeon to and fro,
with folded arms and a firm step. His thoughts
held communion with eternity.
^^ Father which art in heaven ! " he exclaimed,
^^ ^ve me strength to die like those holy men
THE BAPTISM OF FIRE. 129
of old, who scorned to purchase life at the ex-
pense of truth. That truth has made me free ;
and though condemned on earth, I know that I
am absolved in heaven ! "
He again seated himself at his table, and read
in that tome with silver clasps.
This solitary prisoner was Anne Du Bourg ;
a man who feared not man; once a merciful
judge in that august tribunal upon whose voice
hung the Ufe and death of those who were per-
secuted for conscience's sake, he was now him-
self an accused, a convicted heretic, condemned
to the baptism of fire, because he would not un-
righteously condemn others. He had dared to
plead the cause of suffering humanity before
that dread tribunal, and, in the presence of the
king himself, to declare that it was an offence
to the majesty of God to shed man's blood in
his name. Six weary months, — from June to
December, — he had lain a prisoner in that dun-
geon, from which a death by fire was soon to set
him free. Such was the clemency of Henry the
Second !
As the prisoner read, his eyes were filled with
tears. He still gazed upon the printed page, but
it was a blank before his eyes. His thoughts
9
130 THE BAPTISM OF FIRE.
were far away amid tbe scenes of his childhood,
amid the green valleys of Riom and the Golden
Mountains of Auvergne. Some simple word
had called up the vision of the past. He was a
cluld again. He was playing with the pebbles
of the brook, — he was shouting to the echo
of the hills, — he was praying at his mother's
knee, with his little hands clasped in hers.
This dream of childhood was broken by the
grating of bolts and bars, as the jailer opened his
prison-door. A mcmient afterward, his former
colleague, De Harley, stood at his side.
" Thou here ! " exclaimed the prisoner, sur^
INised at the visit. ^^ Thou in the dungeon of a
heretic ! On what errand hast thou come ? ''
" On an errand of mercy," replied De Har-
ley. ' " I come to teD thee "
" That the hour of my death draws near ? "
«
" That thou mayst still be saved."
** Yes ; if I will bear false witness against my
God, — barter heaven for earth, — an eternity
ibr a few brief days of worldly existence. Lost,
thou shouldst say, — lost, not saved ! "
" No ! saved ! " cried De Harley with warmth ;
*^ saved from a death of shame and an eternity
of woe ! Renounce this false doctrine, — this
THK BAPTISM OF FIRE. 131
abominable heresy^ — and return agaia to the
bosom of the church which thou dost rend with
strife and dissension."
^^ God judge between thee and me, which has
onbraced the truth."
^^ His band abeady smites thee."
^' It has fallen more heavily upon those who
so unjusdy persecute me. Where is the king .^—
be who said that with his own eyes he would
behold me perish at the stake ? — he to whom
the undaunted Du Faur cried, like Elijah to
Ahab, * It is thou who troublest Israel ! ' —
Where is the king ? Called, through a sudden
and violent death, to the judgm^t-seat of Heav-
en ! — Where is Minard, the persecutor of the
just ? Slain by the hand of an assassin ! It
was not without reason that I said to him, when
standing before my accusers, ^ Tremble ! believe
tlfe word of one who is about to appear before
God ; thou likewise shalt stand there soon, — *
thou that sfaeddest the blood of the children
of peace.' He has gone to his account be<-
fore me."
^^ And that menace has hastened thine own
condemnation. Minard was slain by the Hi^ue*
nots, and it is whispered that thou wast privy to
his death."
132 THE BAPTISM OF FIRE.
^^ This, at least, might have been spared a dying
man ! " replied the prisoner, much agitated by so
unjust and so unexpected an accusation. ^^ As
I hope for mercy hereafter, I am innocent of
the blood of this man, and of all knowledge
of so foul a crime. But, tell me, hast thou come
here only to embitter my last hours with such
an accusation as this ? If so, I pray thee, leave
me. My moments are precious. I would be
alone."
^* I came to offer thee life, freedom, and hap-
piness."
" Life, — freedom, — happmess ! At the price
thou hast set upon them, I scorn them all ! Had
the apostles and martyrs of the early Christian
church listened to such paltry bribes as these,
where were now the faith in which we trust }
These holy men of old shall answer for me.
Hear what Justin Martyr says, in his earnest
appeal to Antomne the Pious, in behalf of the
Christians who in his day were unjusdy loaded
with public odium and oppression."
He opened the volume before him and read : —
^' I could wish you would take this also into
consideration, that what we say is really for your
own good ; for it is in our power at any time to
THE BAPTISM OF FIRE. 133
escape your torments by denying the faith, when
you question us about it : but we scorn to pur-
chase life at the expense of a lie ; for our souls
are wmged with a desire of a life of eternal dura-
tion and purity, of an immediate conversation
with God, the Father and Maker of all things.
We are in haste to be confessing and finishing
our faith ; being fully persuaded that we shall
arrive at this blessed state, if we approve our-
selves to God by our works, and by our obedi-
ence express our passion for that divine life wliich
is never interrupted by any clashing evil."
The Cathohc and the Huguenot reasoned long
and earnestly together ; but they reasoned in vam.
Each was firm in his belief ; and they parted to.
meet no more on earth.
On the following day, Du Bourg was sum-
moned before his judges to receive his final sen-
tence. He heard it unmoved, and with a prayer
to God that he would pardon those who had con-
demned him according to their consciences.
He then addressed his judges in an oration full
of power and eloquence. It cjosed with these
words : —
" And now, ye judges, if, indeed, you hold the
sword of God as ministers of his wrath, to take
134 THE BAPTISM OF FIRE.
vengeance upon those who do evil, beware, I
charge you, beware how you condemn us. Con-
sider well what evD we have done ; and, before all
tilings, decide whether it be just that we should
listen unto you rather than unto God. Are you
so drunken with the wine-cup of the great sor-
ceress, that you drink poison for nourishment ?
Are you not those who make the people sin,
by tummg them away from the service of God ?
And if you regard more the opinion of mmi
than that of Heaven, in what esteem are you
held by other nations, and • principalities, and
powers, for the martyrdoms you have caused
in obedience to this blood-stained Phalaris ?
God grant, thou cruel tyrant, that by thy miser-
able death thou mayst put an end to our groans !
** Why weep ye ? What means tWs delay ?
Your hearts are heavy within you,— your con-
sciences are haunted by the judgment of God.
And thus it is that the condemned rejoice m the
fires you have kindled, and think they never live
better than in the midst of consuming flames.
Torments af&igbt them not, *- insults enfeeble
them not ; their honor is redeemed by death, —
he that dies is the conqueror, and the conquered
he that mourns.
THE BAPTISM OF FIRE. 139
^^ No ! wfaateyer snares are spread for usi
whatever suffering we endure, you cannot separ-
ate us from the love of Christ. Strike, then, --*
slay, — grind us to powder! Those that did
in the Lord shall live again ; we shall all be raised
together. Condemn me as you will, — I am a
Christian ; yes, I am a Christian, and am ready
to die for the glory of our Lord, — for the truth
of the Evangelists.
^^ Quench, then, your fires ! Let the wicked
abandon his way, and return unto the Lord,
and he will have compassion on him. Live, -^
be happy, — and meditate on God, ye judges !
As for me, I go rejoicing to my death. What
wait ye for ? Lead me to the scaffold ! "
They bound the prisoner's hands, and, leading
him forth from the council^chamber, placed him
upon the cart that was to bear him to the Place
de Gr^ve. Before and behbd marched a guard
of five' hundred sofdiers ; for Du Bourg was
beloved by the people, and a popular tumult was
apprehended. The day was overcast and sad ;
and ever and anon the sound of the tolling bell
mingled its dismal clang with the solemn notes
of the funeral march. They soon reached the
place of execution, which was already filled
136 THE BAPTISM OF FIRE.
with a dense and s3ent crowd. In the centre
stood the gallowsy with a p3e of fagots beneath
it, and the hangman with a burning torch in his
hand. But this funeral apparel inspired no terror
in the heart of Du Bourg. A look of triumph
beamed from his eye, and his countenance shone
like that of an angel. With his own hands he
divested himself of his outer garments, and, gaz-
ing round upon the breathless and sympathizmg
crowd, exclaimed, —
*^ My friends, I come not hither as a thief or a
murderer ; but it is for the Gospel's sake ! "
A cord was then fastened round his waist,
and he was drawn up into the air. At the same
moment the burning torch of the executioner
was applied to the fagots beneath, and the thick
volumes of smoke concealed the martyr from
the horror-stricken crowd. One stifled groan
arose from all that vast multitude, like the moan
of the sea, and all was hushed again ; save the
crackling of the fagots, and at intervals the fu-
neral knell, that smote the very soul. The
quivering flames darted upward and around ; and
an agonizmg cry broke from the murky cloud, —
" My God ! my God ! forsake me not, that I
forsake not thee ! "
THE BAPTISM OF TIRE. 137
The wind lifted the reddening smoke like a
veil, and the form of the martyr was seen to
fall mto the fire beneath. In a moment it rose
again, its garments all in flame ; and again the
faint, half-smothered cry of agony was heard, —
^^ My God ! my God ! forsake me not, that I
forsake not thee ! "
Once more the quivering body descended mto
the flames ; and once more it was lifted into the
air, a blackened, bummg cinder. Again and
again this fiendish mockery of baptism was re-
peated ; till the martyr, with a despairing, sufl!b-
cating voice, exclaimed, —
" O God ! I cannot die ! ''
The chief executioner came forward, and,
either in mercy to the dying man or through
fear of the populace, threw a noose over his neck,
and strangled the almost lifeless victim. At the
same moment the cord which held the body was
loosened, and it fell into the fire to rise no more.
And thus was consummated the martyrdom of the
Baptism of Fire.
COQ-A-L'ANE.
My brain, methinks, is like an hour-glass,
Wherein my imaginations ran like sands,
Filling up time ; but then are turned, and turned,
So that I know not what to stay upon.
And leas to put in art.
BxH Joirsoir.
A RAINY and gloomy winter was just drawing
to its close, when I left Paris for the South of
France. We started at sunrise ; and as we
passed along the solitary streets of the vast and
silent metropolis, drowsily one by one its clang-
ing horologes chimed the hour of six. Beyond
the city-gates the wide landscape was covered
with a silvery network of frost ; a wreath of
vapor overhung the windings of the Seine ; and
every twig and shrub, with its sheath of crystal,
flashed in the level rays of the rising sun. The
sharp, frosty air seemed to quicken the sluggish
blood of the old postilion and his horses ; — a
fresh team stood ready in harness at each stage ;
coq-I-l'ane. 139
and notwithstanding the slippery pavement of the
causeway, the long and tedious climbing the hill-
side upward, and the equally long and tedious
descent with chained wheels and the drag, just
after nightfall the lumbering vehicle of Vincent
Caillard stopped at the gateway of the " Three
Emperors," m the famous city of Orleans.
I cannot pride myself much upon being a good
travellmg-companion, for the rocking of a coach
always lulls me into forgetfulness of the present ;
and no sooner does the hollow, monotonous rum*
bling of the wheels reach my ear, than, like Nick
Bottom, '^ I have an exposition of sleep come
upon me." It is not, however, the deep, sono*
rous slumber of a laborer, ^^ stuffed with db-
tressful bread," but a kind of day-dream, where-
in the creations of fancy seem realities, and the
real world, which swims dizzily before the half-
shut, drowsy eye, becomes mingled with the
imaginary world within. This is doubdess a
very great failing in a traveller ; and I confess,
with all humility, that at times the line of demar-
kation between truth and fiction is rendered there-
by so indefinite and indistbct, that I cannot al-
ways determine, with unerring certainty, whether
an event really happened to me, or whether I
only dreamed it.
140 COQ-i-L'iNE.
On this account I shall not attempt a detailed
description of my journey from Paris to Bor-
deaux. I was travelling like a bird of passage ;
and five weary days and four weary nights I
was on the way. The diligence stopped only
to change horses, and for the travellers to take
their meals ; and by night I slept with my head
under my wing in a snug comer of the coach.
Strange as it may appear to some of my read-
ers, this night-travelling is at times far from be-
ing disagreeable ; nay, if the country is flat and
uninteresting, and you are favored with a moon,
it may be very pleasant. As the night advances,
the conversation around you gradually dies away,
and is imperceptibly given up to some garrulous
traveller who finds himself belated in the midst
of a long story ; and when at length he puts
out his feelers in the form of a question, dis-
covers, by the silence around him, that the
breathless attention of his audience is owing to
their beii^ asleep. All is now silent. You let
down tlie window of the carriage, and the fresh
night-air cools your flushed and burning cheek.
The landscape, though in reality dull and unin-
teresting, seems beautiful as it floats by in the
soft moonshine. Every rumed hovel is changed
coq-a-l'ane. 141
by the magic of night to a trim cottage, every
straggling and dilapidated hamlet becomes as
beautiful as those we read of in poetry and ro-
mance. Over the lowland hangs a silver mist ;
over the hills peep the twinkling stars. The
keen night-air is a spur to the postilion and hb
horses. In the words of the German ballad, —
" Halloo ! halloo I away they go,
Unheeding wet or dry,
And hone and rider snort and blow.
And sparkling pebbles fly.
And all on which the moon doth shine
Behind them flees afar,
" And backward sped, scud overhead.
The sky and every star."
Anon you stop at the relay. The drowsy hostler
crawls out of the stable-yard ; a few gruff words
and strange oaths pass between him and the pos-
tilion, — then there is a coarse joke in patoUj
of which you understand the ribaldry only, and
which is followed by a husky laugh, a sound
between a hiss and a growl ; — and then you
are off again in a crack. Occasionally a way-
traveller is uncaged, and a new-comer takes the
vacant perch at your elbow. Meanwhile your
busy fancy speculates upon aU these things, and
142 coq-a*l'ai?e.
you fell asleep amid its thousand vagaries. Soon
you wake i^ain, and snuff the mombg air. It
was but a moment, and yet the night is gmie.
The gray of twil^lit steals mto the window, and
ghres a ^sity look to the countenances of the
deepmg group around you. One sits bolt vpri^
in a comer, offending none, and stiff and motion-
less as an Egyptian mummy ; another sits equally
straight and immovable, but snores like a priest ;
the head of a third is dangling over his shoulder,
and the tassel of his nightcap tickles his neigh-
bour's ear ; a fourth has lost his hat, — his wig
is awry, and his under-lip hangs lolling about
like an idiot's. The whole scene is a living
caricature of man, presenting human nature in
some of the grotesque attitudes she assumes,
when that pragmatical schoolmaster, propriety,
has fallen asleep in his chair, and the unruly
members of his charge are freed from the thral-
<kmi of the rod.
On leavmg Orleans, instead of following the
great western mail-route through Tours, Poitiers,
and AngoulSme, and thence on to Bordeaux,
I struck across the departments of the Indre,
the Haute-Vienne, and the Dordogne, pass-
ing through the provincial capitals of Chateau-
COQ'iL-L'AIfB* 143
roux, Limoges, and P£rigaeuz. South of the
Loire the countiy assumes a more mouDtainous
aspect, and the landscape is broken by long
sweepbg hills and fertile valleys. Many a fair
scene invites the traveller's foot to pause ; and
his eye roves with delight over the picturesque
landscape of the valley of the Creuse, and the
beautiful highland scenery near P^rigueux. There
are also many objects of art and antiquity winch
arrest his attention. Argenton boasts its Roman
amphitheatre, and the ruins of an old castle
built by King Pepin ; at Chalus the tower be«
Death which Richard Cceur-de-Lion was slain
is still pointed out to the curious traveller ; and
P6rigueux is full of crumbling monuments of the
Middle Ages.
Scenes like these, and the constant chatter
of my fellow-travellers, served to enliven the \
tedium of a long and fatiguing journey. The
French are preeminendy a talking pe<q>le ; and
every new object afforded a topic for light and
animated discussion. The afiairs of church and
state were, however, the themes oftenest touched
upon. The bill for the suppression of the lib-
erty of the press was then under discussion in
the Chamber of Peers, and excited the most
144 coq-1-l'1ne.
lively mterest through the whole kingdonf. Of
course it was a subject not likely to be forgotten
in a stage-coach.
^^ Ah ! mon Dieu ! '' said a brisk little man,
with snow-white hair and a blazing red face, at
the same time drawing up his shoulders to a level
with his ears ; ^' the ministry are determined to
carry their pomt at all events. They mean to
break down the liberty of the press, cost what
It wUl."
^' If they succeed," added the person who sat
opposite, ^' we may thank the Jesuits for it. It
is all their work. They rule the mind of our
imbecile monarch, and it is their miserable policy
to keep the people in darkness."
" No doubt of that," rejoined the first speaker.
" Why, no longer ago than yesterday I read in
the Figaro that a printer had been prosecuted
for publishing the moral lessons of the Evangelists
without the miracles."
"Is it possible?" said I. "And are the
people so stupid as thus patiently to offer their
shoulders to the pack-saddle ? "
" Most certainly not ! We shall have another
revolution."
" If history speaks true, you have had revolu-
tions enough^ diiriDg the last centorjr or two, to
satisfy the most mercurial nation on earth. Yo»
hare hardly been quiet a moment since the day
of the Barricades and the memorable war of the
potS'de'chambreinlile times of the Grand Conde."
" You are pleased to speak lightly of our rev-
olutions, Sir," rejoined the politician, growing
warm. ^' You must, however, confess that each
successive one has brought us nearer to our ob-
ject. Old institutions, whose foundations lie: deep
in the prejudices of a great nation, are not to be
toppled down by the springing of a single mme.
You must confess, too, that our national char*^
acter is muck improved since the days you speak
of. The youth of the present century are not
so frivolous as those of the last. They have no
longer that unbounded levity and light-heartedness
so generally ascribed to them. From this cir-
cumstance we have every thing to hope. Our
revolutions, likewise, must necessarily changer
their character, and secure to us more solid ad-
vantages than heretofore."
^^Luck makes pluck, as the Germans say.
You go on bravely ; but it gives me pain to see
religion and the church so disregarded."
" Superstition and the church, you mean,"
10
146 coq-a-l'anb.
said the gray-headed man. ^^ Why, Sir, the
church is nothing now-a-days but a tumble-down,
dilapidated tower for rooks and daws, and such
silly birds, to build their nests in ! "
It was now very evident that I had unearthed a
radical ; and there is no knowing when his ha-
rangue would have ended, had not his voice been
drowned by the noise of the wheels, as we en-
tered the paved street of the city of Limoges.
A breakfast of boiled capon stuffed with truf-
fles, and accompanied by a p&U de Pirigueuxj
a dish well known to French gourmands, restored
us all to good-humor. While we were at break-
&st, a personage stalked into the room, whose
strange appearance arrested my attention, and
gave subject for future conversation to our parQr.
He was a tdl, thin figure, armed with a long
whip, brass spurs, and black whiskers. He wore
a bell-crowned, varnished hat, a blue frock-coat
with standing collar, a red waistcoat, a paur of
yellow leather breeches, and boots that reached
to the knees. I at first took him for a postilion,'
or a privsite courier ; but, upon inquiry, I found
that he was only the son of a notary public, and
that he dressed in this strange fashion to please
his own fancy.
As soon as we were comfortably seated in the
diligence, I made some remark on the singular
costume of the personage whom I had just seen
at the tavern.
^^ These thmgs are so common with us," said
the politician, '^ that we hardly notice them."
" What you wknt in liberty of speech, then,
you make up m liberty of dress ? "
"Yes ; in this, at least, we are a free people."
" I had not been long in France, before I dis-
covered that a man may dress as be pleases,
without bemg stared at. The most opposite
styles of dress seem to be in vogue at the same
moment. No strange garment nor desperate hat
excites either ridicule or surprise. French fash-
ions are known and imitated all the world over."
" Very true, indeed," said a litde man in gos-
ling-green. "We give fashions to all other
nations."
" Fashions ! " said the politician, with a kmd
of growl, — "fashions! Yes, Sir, and some
of us are simple enough to boast of i% as if we
were a nation of tailors."
Here the littie man in gosling-green pulled up
the horns of his cotton shirt-collar.
" I recollect," said I, " that your Madame
148 coq-Ihl'ane^
de Fompadour in ooe of her letters says some-
tlimg to this effect, — ^ We furnish our ^leimes
with hair-dressers, ribands, and fashions;, and
they furnish us with kws.' "
^^ That is not the only silly thing she said in
her lifetime. Ah !. Sir, these Pompadours, and
Maihtenons, and Montespans A>rere the authors
of much woe to France. Their follies and ex-
travagances exhausted the public treasury, and
made the nation poor. They built palaces, and
covered themselves with jewels, and ate froxa
golden plate ; while the people who toiled for
them had hardly a crust to keep their own child^
ren from starvaticn ! And yet they preach to ua
the divine right of kings I "
My radical had got upon his high horse again ;
and I know not: whither it would have carried
him, had not a thin man with a black, seedy coat,
who sat at his elbow, at that moment crossed
bis path, by one of those abrupt and sudden
transitions which leave you aghast at the strange
association of ideas in the speaker's mind.
" Apropos de boUes ! " exclaimed he, " speak"
ii^ of boots, and notaries public, and such mat-
ters, — excuse me. for interrupting you, Sir, — a
little story has just popped into my head which
COQ-A-L'ilTE. 149
may amuse the company ; and as I am not very
fond of political discussions, — no offence, Sir, —
I will tell it, for the sake of changmg the conver-
sation."
Whereupon, without further preamble or apol-
ogy, he proceeded to tell his story in, as nearly
as may be, the following words.
THE
NOTARY. OF Pi:RIGUEUX.
Do not trust thy body with a phyncian. He '11 make
thy foolish bones go without flesh in a fortnight, and thy soul
walk without a body a sennight after.
Shirlet.
You must know, Gentlemen, that there lived
some years ago, in the city of Perigueux, an
honest notary public, the descendant of a very
ancient and broken-down family, and the occu-
pant of one of those old weather-beaten tene-
ments which remind you of the times of your
great-grandfather. He was a man of an unof-
fending, quiet disposition ; the father of a family,
though not the head of it, — for in that family
" the hen over-crowed the cock," and the neigh-
bours, when they spake of the notary, > shrugged
their shoulders, and exclaimed, " Poor fellow !
his spurs want sharpening." In fine, — you un-
derstand me, Gendemen, — he was hen-pecked.
Well, finding no peace at home, he- sought
it elsewhere, as was very natural for him to do ;
THE NOTARY OF PERI6UEUX. 151
and at length discovered a place of rest, far be-
yond the cares and clamors of domestic life.
This was a little cafi estaminet^ a short way out
of the city, whither he repaired every evening
to smoke his pipe, drink sugar-water, and play
his favorite game of domino. There he met
the boon companions he most loved ; heard aU
the floating chitchat of the day; laughed when
he was in merry mood ; found consolation when
he was sad ; and at all times gave vent to his
opinions, without fear of being snubbed short by a
flat contradiction.
Now, the notaiy's bosom-friend was a dealer
in claret and cognac, who lived about a league
from the city, and always passed his evenings at
the estaminet. He was a gross, corpulent fel-
low, raised from a full-blooded Gascon breed,
and sired by a comic actor of some reputation
in his way. He was remarkable for nothing but
his good-humor, his love of cards, and t strong
propensity to test the quality of his own liquors
by comparing them with those sold at other
places.
As evil communications corrupt good man-
ners, the bad practices of the wine-dealer won
insensibly upon the worthy notary; and before
152 THK NOTAKT 0<F PEAIGVEUX.
he was aware of it, he found himself weaiied
from domino and sugar-water, and addicted to
piquet .and spiced wine. Indeed, it not uofre-
quently happened, that, after a long session at die
tstaminet^ the two friends grew so urbane, that
they would waste a full half-*hour at the door
in friendly (Sspute which should conduct the other
home.
Though this course of Bfe agreed well enough
wjdi the sluggish, phlegmatic temperament of the
wine-dealer, it soon began to play the very deuse
with die more sensitive organization of the no-
tary, and finally put his nenrous system com-
pletely out of tune. He lost his aj^etite, be-
came gaunt and haggard, and could get no sleep.
Legions of Uue^devils haunted him by day, and
by night strange faces peeped throu^ his bed-
curtains and the nightmare snorted in his ear.
The worse he grew, the more he smoked and
tippled ; and the more be smoked and tippled, <—
why, as a matter of course, the worse he grew.
His wife alternately stormed, remonstrated, en-
treated ; but all in vain. She made the house
too hott for him, — he retreated to the tavern ;
she broke his long-stemmed pipes upon the an-
dirons, — be substituted a short-stemmed one.
TSE NOTARY OV P£RIGtJEUX^ 15S
which, {(X safe keeping, he carried in his vrnst*
coat«pocket.
Thus the unhappy notary ran gradually down
at the heel. What with his bad habits and hk
domestic grievances, he became completely hip-
ped. He imagined that he was going to die ;
mid suffered in quick succession all the diseases
that ever beset mortal man. Every shooting
pain was an alarmbg sympton, — every uneasy
feeling after dinner a sure prognostic of some
mortal disease. In vain did his friends endeav-
our to reason, and then to laugh him out of his
e^ange velums ; for when did ever jest or reason
^me a sick imagination ? His only answer was,
^^ Do let me alone ; I know better |han yon
what ails me."
Well, Gendemen, things were in this state,
when, one afternoon in December, as he sat mop-
ing in his office, wrapped in an overcoat, with
R cap on his head and his feet thrust into a pair
of furred slippers, a cabriolet stopped at the ,
door, and a loud knocking without aroused bim
ftom his gloomy revery. It was a message from
his friend the wine-dealer, who had been sud-
ileriy attacked with a viol^it fever, and, growing
worse and worse, had now sent in the greaitest
154 THE NOTARY OF PERIGUEUZ.
haste for the notary to draw up his last will and
testament. The case was urgent, and admitted
neither excuse nor delay ; and the notary, tying
a handkerchief round his face, and buttoning up
to the chin, jumped into the cabriolet, and suf-
fered himself, though not without some dismal
presentiments and misgivings of heart, to be driv-
en to the wine-dealer^s house.
When he arrived, he found ever}*- thing in the
greatest confusion. On entering the house, he
ran against the apothecary, who was coming down
stairs, with a face as long as your arm ; and a few
steps farther he met the housekeeper — for the
wine-dealer was an old bachelor — running up
and dowp, and wrbging her hands, for fear that
the good man should die without making his
will. He soon reached the chamber of his sick
friend, and found him tossing about in a paroxysm
of fever, and calling aloud for a draught of cold
water. The notary shook his head ; he thought
-this a fatal symptom ; for ten years back the
wine-dealer had been suffering under a species
of hydrophobia, which seemed suddenly to have
left him.
When the sick man saw who stood by his bed-
side, he stretched out his hand and exclaimed, —
THE NOTART OF PERiaUEUX. 155
^^ Ah ! mj dear friend ! have you come at
last ? You see it is all over with me. You
have arrived just in time to draw up that — that
passport of mine. Ah, grand diable ! how hot
it is here ! Water, — water, — water ! Will
nobody give me a drop of cold water ? "
As the case was an urgent one, the notary
made no delay m getting his papers in readiness ;
and in a short time the last will and testament
of the wine-dealer was drawn up in due form,
the notary guiding the sick man's hand as be
scrawled his signature at the bottom.
As the evening wore away, the wine-dealer
grew worse ai)d worse, and at length became
delirious, mingling in his incoherent ravmgs the
phrases of the Credo abd Paternoster with the
shibboleth of the dram-shop and the card-table.
**Take care! take care! There, now —
Credo in — Pop ! ting-a-ling-ling ! give me some
of that. Cent-e-dize ! Why, you old publican,
this wine is poisoned, — I know your tricks !
— Sanctam ecchriam CathoKcam — Well, well,
we shall see. Imbecile ! to have a tierce-major
and a seven of hearts, and discard the seven!
By St. Anthony, capot ! You are lurched, —
ha ! ha ! I told you so. I knew very well, —
156 THE KOTART OF PERIGUEUX.
Aera, — tbere^ — don't iatemqpt me — CamU
reiurreetionem et nUarn etemam ! "
With diese words upon his lips, the poor wine-
dealer expired. Meanwhile the notary sat cow-
eiing over the fire, aghast at the fearful scene that
was passing before him, and now and then striv*
ing to keep up his courage by a glass of cognac.
Already his fears were on the alert ; and the idea
oi contagion iSitted to and fro through his nund.
In order to quiet these thoughts of evil import,
lie lighted his pipe, and began to prepare for re-
turning home. At that moment the apoCbecary
tamed round to him and said, —
^^ Dreadful sickly time, this ! The disorder
seems to be spreadbg."
^^ What disorder ? " exclaimed the notary,
with a ipovement of surprise.
" Two died yesterday, and three to-day^" con-
tinued the apothecary, without answering the
question. " Very sickly time. Sir, — very."
^^ But what disorder is it ? What disease has
carried off my friend here so suddenly ? "
" What disease ? Why, scarlet fever, to be
sure."
^' And is it contagious ? "
« Certainly ? "
THTir rroTARY OP piRravEtTX. 167
^^ Then I am a dead man f " exclaimed the
notary, putting his pipe into his waistcoat-pockety
and beginning to walk up and down the room in
despair. ^^ I am a dead man ! Now doo't
deceive me, — don't, will you? What — what
are the symptoms ? "
'^ A sharp burning pain in the right side," said
the apothecary.
" O, what a fool I was to come here ! "
In vain did the housekeeper and the apothecaxy
strive to pacify him ; — he was not a man to be
reasoned with ; he answered that he knew his
own constitution better dian they did, and uisisted
upon going home without delay. Unfortunately,
the vehicle he came bs had' returned to the city ;
Bud die whole neighbourhood was abed and
asleep. What was to be. done ? Nothing in the
world but to take the apothecary's horse, which
stood hitched at the door, patiently waiting his
master's will.
Well, Gendemen, as there was no remedy, our
notary mounted this raw-boned steed, and set
forth upon his homeward journey. The night
was cold and gusly, and the wind right in hi»
teeth. Overhead the leaden clouds were beat-
ing to and fro, and through them die newly risen
158 THE NOTART OF PERIGUEUX.
moon seemed to be tossing and drifting along like
a cock-boat in the surf ; now swallowed up in a
huge billow of cloud, and now lifted upon its
bosom and dashed with silvery spray. The
trees by the road-side groaned with a sound of
evil omen ; and before him lay three mortal miles,
beset with a tliousand imaginary perils. Obedient
to the whip and spur, the steed leaped forward
by fits and starts, now dashing away in a tre-
mendous gaUop, and now relaxing into a long,
hard trot ; while the rider, filled with symptoms
of disease and dire presentiments of death, urged
him on, as if he were fleeing before the pesti-
lence.
In this way, by dmt of whistling and shouting,
and beadng right and left, one mile of the fatal
three was safely passed. The apprehensions of
the notary had so far subsided, that he even suf-
fered the poor horse to walk up hill ; but these
apprehensions were suddenly revived again with
tenfold violence by a sharp pain in the right side,
which seemed to pierce him like a needle.
^^ It is upon me at last ! " groaned the fear-
stricken man. ^^ Heaven be merciful to me, the
greatest of sinners ! And must I die in a ditch,
after all i He ! get up, — get up ! "
THE NOTARY OF PERI6UEUX. 159
And away went horse and rider at full speed,
— hurry-scurry, — up hill and down, — panting
and blowing like a whirlwind. At every leap,
the pain in the rider's side seemed to increase.
At first it was a little point like the prick of a
needle, — then it spread to the size of a half-
franc piece, — then covered a place as large as
the palm of your hand. It gained upon him
fast. The poor man groaned aloud in agony ;
faster and faster sped the horse over the frozen
ground, — farther and farther spread the pain over
his side. To complete the dismal picture, the
storm commenced, — snow mingled with ram.
But snow, and rain, and cold were naught to
him ; for, though his arms and legs were frozen
to icicles, he felt it not ; the fatal symptom was
upon him ; he was doomed to die, — not of cold,
but of scarlet fever !
At length, he knew not how, more dead than
alive, he reached the gate of the city. A band
of ill-bred dogs, that were serenading at a comer
of the street, seeing the notary dash by, jomed
in the hue and cry, and ran barkmg and yelping
at his heels. It was now late at night, and only
here and there a solitary lamp twinkled from an
upper story. But on went the notary, down
160 THE NOTAET OF PERI6UEUX*
tfaas street and up that, liU at last he reached
his own door. There was a light in his wife's
bed-chamb^. The good woman came ton the
window, alarmed at such a kaocking, and howl-
bg, and clattering at her door so late at night ;.
and the notary was too deeply absorbed in his
own sorrows to observe that the lamp cast the
shadow of two heads on the window-curtain.
^^ Let me in ! let me in ! Quick ! quick ! " he
exclaimed, almost breadiless from terror and
fatigue.
^^ Who are you, that come to disturb a lone
woman at this hour of the night ? " cried a sharp
voice from above. " Begone about your busi-
ness, and let quiet people sleep."
^' O, diabhy diable ! Come down and let me
in ! I am your husband. Don't you know my
voice ? Quick, I beseech you ; for I am dying
here in the street ! "
After a few moments of delay and a few more
words of parley, the door was opened, and the
notary stalked into his domicil, pale and haggard
in aspect, and as stiff and straight as a ghost.
Cased from head to heel in an armor of ice, as
the glare of the lamp fell upon him, he looked
like a knight-errant mailed in steel. But in one
THE KOTART OF PERIOtTEUX. 161
place his armor was broken. On his right side
was a circular spot, as large as the crown of your
hat, and about as black !
" My dear wife ! " he exclaimed, with more
tenderness than he had exhibited for many years,
^^ reach me a chair. My hours are numbered*
I am a dead man ! "
Alarmed at these exclamations, his wife strip-
ped off his overcoat. Something fell from be-
neath it, and was dashed to pieces on the hearth.
It was the notary's pipe! He placed his hand
upon his side, and, lo ! it was bare to the skin !
Coat, waiscoat, and linen were burnt through and
through, and there was a blister on his side as
large over as your head !
The mystery was soon explamed, symptom
and all. The notary had put his pipe into his
pocket, without knocking out the ashes ! And
so my story ends.
^^ Is that all ? " asked the radical^ when the
story-teller had finished.
"That is all."
" Well, what does your story prove ? "
" That is more than I can teU. All I know is
that the story is true.'^
11
162 THE IfOTABT OF PEEIOUBU3L.
^^ And did he die ? " said the nice little man
in goslbg-green,
" Yes ; he died afterward/^ replied the story-
teller, rather annoyed by the question.
** And what did he die of ? '* continued gos-
ling-green, following him up.
" What did he die of? why, he died — of a
sudden ! "
SPAIN.
THE
JOURNEY INTO SPAIN.
A risflue de Tyver que le joly temps de primavire com-
mence, et qu'on voit arbres verdoyer, fleam espanouir, et
qu'on oh lea oinllonB chanter en toute joie et doulceur, tant
que lea veita bocagea retentisaent de lenra aona et que cceura
triates penaifa y dolena a'en esjouiaaent, a'^meuvent k delaia-
aer deuil et toute triatesae, et ae parfbrcent k valoir mieux.
La Plaisantx Histoirx dx Gvi&iv dx Monolatx.
Soft-breathing Spnng! how many pleasant
thoughts, how many delightful recollections, does
thy name awaken in the mind of a traveller !
Whether he has followed thee by the banks of the
Loire or the Guadalquivir, or traced thy foot-
steps slowly climbing the sunny slope of Alp or
Apennine, the thought of thee shall summon up
sweet visions of the past, and thy golden sun-
shine and soft vapory atmosphere become a por-
tion of his day-dreams and of him. Sweet im-
ages of thee, and scenes that have oft inspired
the poet's song, shall mingle in his recollections
of the past. The shooting of the tender leaf, —
the sweetness and elasticity of the air, — the
166 THE JOURNET INTO SPAIN.
blue sky, — the fleet-driftiDg cloud, — and the
flocks of w3d fowl wheeling in long-drawn pha-
lanx through the air, and screanung from their
dizzy hdght, — all these shaQ pass like a ^eam
before his imagination.
** And gently o*er hU memory come at times
A glimpee of joys that had their birth in tfaee^
Like a brief strain of some forgotten tune."
It was at the opening of this deEgbtful season
of the year that I passed through the South of
France, and took the road of St. Jean de Luz
for the Spanish frontier. I left Bordeaux amid
all the noise and gayety of the last scene of Car-
nival. The streets and public walks of the city
were fiill of merry groups in masks, — at every
comer crowds were listening to the discordant
music of the wandering ballad-singer ; and gro-
tesque figures, mounted on high stilts, and dressed
in the garb of the peasants of the Landes of
Gascony, were stalking up and down like so
many long-legged cranes ; others were amusing
themselves with the tricks and grimaces of little
monkeys, disguised like little men, bowing to the
ladies, and figuring away in red coats and ruffles ;
and here and there a band of chimney-sweeps
TBE JOITBIfET IHTO BPAIST. 167
were staring in stupid wonder at the miracl^ of
a showman's box. In a word, a9 was so full of
mirth and merrimake, that even beggary seemed
to have forgotten that it was wretched, and glo-
ried in the ragged masquerade of one poor holy-
day.
To this scene of noise and gayety succeeded
the sflence and solitude of the Landes of Gas-
cony* The road from Bordeaux to Bayonne
winds along through immense pine-forests and
sandy plains, spotted here and there with a dmgy
little hovel, and the silence is interrupted only
by the dismal hollow roar of the wind among the
melancholy and majestic pines. Occasionally,
however, the way is enlivened by a market-town
or a stragglmg village ; and I still recollect the
feelings of delight which I experienced, when,
just after sunset, we passed through the romantic
town of Roquefort, built upon the sides of the
green valley of the Douze, which has scooped
out a verdant hollow for it to nesde in, amid
those barren tracts of sand.
On leaving Bayonne, the scene assumes a char-
acter of greater beauty and sublimity. To the
vast forests of the Landes of Gascony succeeds
a scene of picturesque beauty, delightful to the
168 THE JOURIIET INTO SPAIN.
trafeller's eye. Before him rise the snowy Pyr-
enees, — a long line of undulating hills, —
(< Bounded afar by peak aflpiring bold,
Like giant capped with helm of barnighed gold."
To the left, as far as the eye can reach, stretch
the delicious valleys of the Nive and Adour;
and to the right the sea flashes along the pebbly
margin of its silver beach, formbg a thousand
little bays and inlets, or comes tumbling in among
the cliffs of a rock-bound coast, and beats agEiinst
its massive barriers with a distant, hollow, con-
tinual roar.
Should these pages meet the eye of any solita-
ry traveller who is journeying into Spain by the
road I here speak of, I would advise him to
travel from Bayonne to St. Jean de Luz on
horseback. At the gate of Bayonne he will
find a steed ready caparisoned for him, with a
dark-eyed Basque girl for his companion and
guide, who is to sit beside him upon the same
horse. This style of travelling is, I believe,
peculiar to the Basque provinces ; at all events,
I have seen it nowhere else. The saddle is
constructed with a large frame-work extending
on each side, and covered with cushions ; and
THE JOURIfET INTO SFAIIT. 169
the traveller and his guide, bebg placed on the
opposite extremities, serve as a balance to each
other. We overtook many travellers mounted
in this way, and I could not help thinking it a
mode of travelling far preferable to being cooped
up in a diligence. The Basque girls are gener-
ally beautiful ; and there was one of these meny
guides we met upon the road to Bidart, whose
image haunts me still. She had large and ex-
pressive black eyes, teeth like pearls, a rich and
sunburnt complexion, and hair of a glossy black-
ness, parted on the forehead, and falling down
behind in a large braid, so long as almost to touch
the ground with the litde riband that confined
it at the end. She wore the common dress of
the peasantry of the South of France, and a large
gypsy straw hat was thrown back over her shoul-
der, and tied by a riband about her neck. There
was hardly a dusty traveller in the coach who
did not envy her companion the seat he occupied
beside her.
Just at nightfall we entered the town of St.
Jean de Luz, and dashed down its narrow streets
at iiill gallop. The little madcap postilion crack-
ed his knotted whip incessantly, and the sound
echoed back from the high dingy walls like the
170 THB JOUBNET INTO SPAIN.
report of & pistol. The ooach-^heels oearlj
touched the houses on each side of us ; the idlers
m the street jumped right and left to save theii>-
selves ; window-shutters flew open in all direo-
tbns ; a thousand heads popped out from cellar
and upper stoty; ^'Sacr-^^ri moHn!^^ shouted
the postilion, --^and we ratded on like an earth-
quake.
St. Jean de LuaS is a smoky little fishii^
town, situated on the low grounds at the mouth
of the Nivdle, and a bridge connects it witfi the
faubourg of Siboume, which stands on the op-
posite bank of the river* I had no time, how-
ever, to note the peculiarities of the place, for
I was whirled out of it with the same speed and
confusion with which I had been whirled in, and
I can only recollect the sweep of the road across
the Nivelle, — the church of Siboume by the
Water's edge, — the narrow streets, — the smoky-
looking houses with red window-shutters, and
" a very ancient and fish-like smell."
I passed by moonlight the Utde river Bidasoa,
which forms the boundary between France and
Spain ; and when the morning broke, found my-
self far up among the mountains of San Salva-
dor, the most westerly links of the great Pyr-
THK JOUEIfET INTO 8PAIK. 171
F
eoean chain. The mountains around me were
neither rugged nor precipitous^ but th^ rose one
abo^e another in a long) majestic swoU, and the
trace of the ploughshare was occasionally visible
to their summits. They seemed entirely dea-*
titute of forest-scenery ; and as the season of
▼fetation had not yet commenced, their hi]^e
outlines lay black, and barren, and desolate against
the sky. But it was a glorious morning, and the
sun rose up into a cloudless heaven, and poured
a flood of gorgeous splendor over the mountain
landscape, as if proud of the realm he shone
upon. The scene wad enlivened by the dashii^
of a swollen mountam-brook, whose course we
followed for miles down the valley, as it leaped
onward to its journey's end, now breaking into
a white cascade, and now foammg and chafing
beneath a rustic bridge. Now and then we rode
through a dilapidated town, with a group of idlers
at every comer, wrapped in tattered brown cloaks,
and poking their little paper cigars in the sun ;
then would succeed a desolate tract of country,
cheered only by the tinkle of a mule-bell, or the
song of a muleteer ; then we would meet a sol*
itary traveller mounted on horseback, and wrap-
ped in the ample folds of his cloak, with a gun
172 THE JOURNET INTO SPAIN.
hanging at the pommel of his saddle. Occasion-
ally, too, amoi^ the bleak, inhospitable hills, we
passed a rude litde chapel, with a cluster of
ruined cottages around it ; and whenever our
carriage stopped at the relay, or loitered slowly
up the hill-side, a crowd of children would gather
around us, with little images and crucifixes for
sale, curiously ornamented with ribands and little
bits of tawdry finery.
A day's journey from the firontier brought us
to Vitoria, where the diligence stopped for the
night. I spent the scanty remnant of daylight
in rambling about the streets of the city, with
no other guide but the whim of the moment.
Now I plunged down a dark and narrow alley,
now emerged into a wide street or a spacious
market-place, and now aroused the drowsy ech-
oes of a church or cloister with the sound of my
intrudmg footsteps. But descriptions of churches
and public squares are dull and tedious matters
for those readers who are in search of amuse-
ment, and not of instruction ; and if any one has
accompanied me thus far on my fatiguing journey
towards the Spanish capital, I will readily excuse
him from the toil of an evening ramble through
the streets of Vitoria.
THE JOURNEY INTO SPAIN. 173
On the following monimg, we left the town,
long before daybreak, and during our forenoon's
journey the postilion drew up at an inn, on the
southern slope of the Sierra de San Lorenzo,
in the provmce of Old Castile. The house was
an old, dilapidated tenement, built of rough stone,
and coarsely plastered upon the outside. The
tiled roof had long been the sport of wind and
rain, the motley coat of plaster was broken and
time-worn, and the whole building sadly out of
repair ; though the fanciful mouldings under the
eaves, and the curiously carved wood-work that
supported the litde balcony over the principal
entrance, spoke of better days gone by. The
whole building reminded me of a dilapidated
Spanish Don, down at the heel and out at el-
bows, but with here and there a remnant of for-
mer magnificence peeping through the loopholes
of his tattered cloak.
A wide gateway ushered the traveller into the
interior of the building, and conducted him to a
low-roofed apartment, paved with round stones,
and servmg both as a court-yard and a stable.
It seemed to be a neutral ground for man and
beast, — a litde republic, where horse and rid-
er had conmipn privileges, and mule and mu«
174 THS JOUENEY INTO SPAIN.
leteer lay cheek by jowl. In one corner a poor
jackass was patiently devouring a bundle of musty
straw, — in anodier, its master lay sound asleep,
with his saddle-cloth for a pillow ; here a group
of muleteers were quarrelling over a pack of dir*
tj cards, — and there the village barber, with a
self-important air, stood laving the alcalde's chin
from the hehnet of Mambrino. On the wall, a
little taper glimmered feebly before an image
of St. Anthony ; directly opposite these a leath-*
em wine-bottle bung by the neck from a pair
of ox-homs ; and the pavement below was cov-
ered with a curious medley of boxes, and bags,
and cloaks, and pack-saddles, and sacks of grain,
and skins of wine, and all kinds of lumber.
A small door upon the right led us into the
inn-kitchen. It was a room about ten feet square,
and literally all chimney ; for the hearth was in
the centre of the floor, and the walls sloped up-
ward in the form of a long, narrow pjrramid,
with an opening at the top for the escape of the
smoke. Quite round this little romn ran a row
of benches, upon which sat one or two grave
personages smokmg paper cigars. Upon the
hearth blazed a handful of fagots, whose bright
flame danced merrily among a motley congrega-
THE JOUENET INTO SPAIN* 175
tion of pots and kettles, and a long wreath of
smoke wound laaaly up through the huge tunnel
of the roof ahove. . The walls were black with
soot, and ornamented with sundry legs of bacon
and festoons of sausages ; and as there were no
wmdows in this dingy abode, the only light which
cheered the darkness within came flickering from
the fire upon the hearth, and the smoky sun*
beams that peeped down the long->necked chimney.
I had not been long seated by the fire, when
the tinkling of mub'>bells, the clatter of hoofisK,
and the hoarse voice of a muleteer in the outer
Apartment, announced the arrival of new guests*
A few moments afterward the kitchen-door open*
ed, and a person entered, whose appearance
strongly arrested my attention. It was a tall,
athletic figure, with the majestic carriage of a
grandee, and a dark, sunburnt countenance, that
indicated an age of about fifty years. His dress
was singular, and such as I had not before seen.
He wore a round hat with wide, flapping brim,
from beneath which his long, black hair hung
in curls upon his shoulders ; a leather jerkin,
with cloth sleeves, descended to his hips ;
around hb wabt was closely buckled a leather
belt, with a cartouch-box on one side ; a pair
176 THE JOURNEY INTO SPAIN.
of loose trousers of black serge hung in ample
folds to the knees, around which they were close-
ly gathered by embroidered gaiters of blue silk ;
and black broadcloth leggins, buttoned close to
the calves, and strapped over a pair of brown
leather shoes, completed the singular dress of the
stranger. He doffed his hat as he entered, and,
saluting the company with a ^^ Dios guarde a
Ustedes, caballeros^^ (God guard you, Gentle-
men), took a seat by the fire, and entered into
conversation with those around him.
As my curiosity was not a little excited by the
peculiar dreds of this person, I mquired of a
travelling companion, who sat at my elbow, who
and what this new-comer was. From him I
learned that be was a muleteer of the Maraga-
teria, — a name given to a cluster of small towns
which lie in the mountainous country between
Astorga and yillafi*anca, m the western comer
of the kingdom of Leon.
"Nearly every province in Spain," said he,
" has its peculiar costume, as you will see, when
yo^ have advanced farther into our country.
For instance, the Catalonians wear crimson caps,
hanging down upon the shoulder like a sack ;
wide pantaloons of green velvet, long enough
THE JOURNEY INTO SPAIN. 177
in the waistband to cover the whole breast ; and
a little strip of a jacket, made of the same ma-
terial, and so short as to bring the pocket directly
under the armpit. The Valencians, on the con-
trary, go almost naked : a Imen shirt, white linen
trousers, reaching no lower than the knees, and
a pair of coarse leather sandals complete their
simple garb ; it is only in mid-wbter that they
indulge in the luxiu:y of a jacket. The most
beautiful and expensive costume, however, is
that of Andalusia : it consists of a velvet jacket,
faced with rich and various-colored embroidery,
and covered with tassels and silken cord ; a waist-
coat of some gay color ; a silken handkerchief
round the neck, and a crimson sash round the
waist ; breeches that button down each side ;
gaiters and shoes of white leather ; and a hand-
kerchief of bright-colored silk wound about the
head like a turban, and surmounted by a velvet
cap or a little round hat, with a wide band, and
an abundance of silken loops and tassels. The
Old Castilians are more grave in their attire : they
wear a leather breastplate instead of a jacket,
breeches and leggins, and a montera cap. This
fellow is a Maragato ; and in the villages of the
12
178 THE JOITRNET INTO SPAIN.
Maragftteiit the costume Taries a little frcHii the
rest of Leon and Castile."
^' If he is indeed a Maragato," said I, jesting-
Ij, ^^wfao knows but he may be a descendant
o[ the muleteer who behaved sa nai^htily at
Cacabelos, as related in the second chapter of the
raracious history of Gil Bias de Santillana ? "
" i Qwten sabe 9 " was the reply. ** Not-
withstanding the pride which even the meanest
Castilian feels in counting over a long line of
good-for-nothing ancestors, the science of gene-
alogy has become of late a very intricate study
m Spain."
Here our conversation was cut short by the
mayoral of the diligence, who came to teB us
that the mules were waiting ; and before many
hours had elapsed, we were scrambling through
the square of the ancient city of Burgos. On
the morrow we crossed the river Duero and the
Guadarrama Mountains, and early in the after-
noon entered the "Her6ica Villa" of Madrid,
by the Puerta de Fuencarral.
SPAIN.
Santiago y eiorra Eapana !
Spanish War-cry,
It is a beaudfid morning in June ; — so beau*
tiful, that I almost fancy myself in Spain. Tbe
tessekted shadow of the honeysuckle lies mo*
ttonless upon the floor, as if it were a figure io
the carpet » and through the open window comm
the fragrance of the wild*brier and the mock-
orange, reminding me ot that soft, sunny clime
where tbe very air is laden, like the bee, with
sweetness, and the south wind
^ Come* over gardemi, and tb« fiowera
That kiflsod it are betrayed.'*
The burds are carolfing in the trees, and th»
shadows ffit across the window as they dart to
and fro in the sunshine ; wtnle the murmur of the
bee, the cooing of doves from the eaves, and
the whirrbg of a little hunmiiing-birdi thai has
its nest m the honeysuckle, send up a souad
180 8PAIK.
of joy to meet the rismg sun. How like the
climate of the South! How like a summer
mormng b Spam !
My recoUections of Spain are of the most
lively and delightful kind. The character of the
soil and of its inhabitants, — the stormy moun-
tains and free spirits of the Nordi, — the prodigal
luxuriance and gay voluptuousness of the South,
— the history and traditions of the past, resem-
bling more the fables of romance than the solemn
chronicle of events, — a soft and yet majestic
language that falls like martial music on the ear,
and a literature rich in the attractive lore of po-
etry and fiction, — these, but not these alone,
are my reminiscences of Spain. With these I
recall the thousand litde circumstances and en-
jo}rments which always give a coloring to our
recollections of the past; the clear sky, — the
pure, balmy air, — the delicious fruits and flow-
ers, — the wild-fig and the aloe, — the palm-tree
and the olive by the wayside, — all, all that makes
existence so joyous, and renders the sons and
daughters of that cUme the children of impulse
and sensation.
As I write these words, a shade of sadness
steals over me. When I think what that glorious
SPAIN. 181
land might be, and what it is, — what Nature
intended it should be, and what man has made
it, — my very heart sinks within me. My mind
instinctively reverts from the degradation of the
present to the glory of the past ; or, looking for-
ward with strong misgivings, but with yet stronger
hopes, interrogates the future.
The burnished armor of the Cid stands in
the archives of the royal museum of Madrid,
and there, too, is seen the armor of Ferdinand
and Isabel, of Guzman the Good and Gonzalo
de C6rdova, and of other early champions of
Spain ; but what hand shall now wield the sword
of the Campeador, or lift up the banner of Leon
and Castile i The ruins of Christian castle and
Moorish alcazar still look forth from the hills of
Spain ; but where, O, where b the spirit of free-
dom that once fired the children of the Goth ?
Where is the spirit of Bernardo del Carpio,
and Perez de Vargas, and Alonzo de Aguilar ?
Shall it for ever sleep ? Shall it never again
beat high in the hearts of their degenerate sons ?
Shall the descendants of Pelayo bow for ever
beneath an iron yoke, ^' like cattle whose despair
is dumb ? "
The dust of the Cid lies mingling with the
182 SPAIN.
dust of Old Castile ; but bis spirit is not buried
widi his ashes. It sleeps, but b not dead. The
day will come, when the foot of the tyrant shall
be shaken from the neck of Spain ; when a brare
and generous people, though now ignorant, de-
graded, and much abused, shall ^^ know their
rights, and knowbg dare maintam."
Of the national character of Spain I have
brought away this impression ; that its prominent
traits are a generous pride of birth, a supersti*
tious devotion to the dogmas of the Church, and
an innate dignity, which exhibits itself even ia
die common and every-day employments of life.
Castilian pride is proverbial. A beggar wraps his
tattered cloak around him with all the dignity of
a Roman senator ; and a muleteer bestrides his
beast of burden with the air of a grandee.
I have thought, too, that there was a tinge of
sadness in the Spanish character. The national
music of the land is remarkable for its melan-
choly tone ; and at times the voice of a peasant,
singing amid the silence and solitude of the moun-
tains, falls upon the ear like a fimeral chant.
Even a Spanish holyday wears a look of sad-
ness, — a circumstance which some writers at-
tribute to the cruel and -overbearing spirit of the
spAiic. 183
municipal kws. ^' On the greatest festivals,"
sajs JovellanoS) '' instead of that boisterous mer*
riment and noise which should bespeak the joy
of the inhabitants, there reigns throughout the
streets and market-places a slothful inactivity,
a gloomy stilbess, which cannot be remarked
without mingled emotions of surprise and pity*
The few persons who leave their houses seem
to be driven from them by listlessness, and drag*
ged as far as the threshold, the market, or the
church'door ; there, muffled in their cloaks, lean-
ing against a comer, seated on a bench, or loung*
ing to and fro, without object, aim, or purpose,
they pass their hours, their whole evenings, with-
out mirth, recreation, or amusement. When you
add to this picture the dreariness and filth of the
villages, the poor and slovenly dress of the m*
habitants, the gloominess and silence of their air,
the laziness, the want of concert and union so
striking everywhere, who but would be astonished,
who but would be afflicted by so mournful a phe-
nomenon ? This is not, indeed, the place to ex*-
pose the errors which conspire to produce it ; but,
whatever those errors may be, one point is clear,
— that tjiey are all to be found in the laws ! " *
* Informe dado d la Real Academia de Historia sobre
Juegos, Espectaculos, y Diversiones Pjiblicas. *
184 SPAIN.
Of the same serious, sombre character is the
favorite national sport, — the bull-fight. It is a
barbarous amusement, but of all others the most
excitbg, the most spirit-stirring ; and in Spain,
the most popular. '^ If Rome lived content
with bread and arms," says the author I have
jus.t quoted, in a spirited little discourse entitled
Pan y ToroSj ^' Madrid lives content with bread
and bulls."
Shall I describe a Spanish bull-fight ? No.
It has been so often and so well described by
other pens that mine shall not undertake it, though
it is a tempting theme. I cannot, however, re«
fiise myself the pleasure of quoting here a few
lines from one of the old Spanish ballads upon
this subject- It is entitled " The Bull-fight of
Ganzul." The description of the bull, which
is contained in the passage I here extract, is
drawn with a master's hand. It is rather a par-
aphrase than a translation, by Mr. Lockhart.
*' From Gaadiana comes be not, be comes not from Xenil,
From Gaadalarif of tbe plain, nor Barveg of the bill ;
But wbere from out the forest burst Xarama's waters clear,
Beneath tbe oak-trees was he nursed, this proud and state-
ly steer.
SPAIN* 185
''Dark is his hide on either aide, bat the blood within doth
boil,
And the dun hide glows, as if on fire, as he paws to the
turmoil.
His eyes are jet, and they are set in crystal rings of snow ;
But now they stare with one red glare of brass upon the
foe.
^ Upon the forehead of the bull the horns stand close and
near.
From out the broad and wrinkled skull like daggers they
appear;
His neck is massy, like the trunk of some old, knotted
tree,
Whereon the monster's shaggy mane, like billows curled,
ye see.
" His legs are short, his hams are thick, his hoofs are black
as night ;
Like a strong flail he holds his tail, in fierceness of his
might ;
Like something molten out of iron, or hewn from fi>rth the
rock,
Harpado of Xarama standi, to bide the Alcayde's shock.
^ Now stops the drum, — close, close they come ; thrice meet
and thrice give back ;
The white foam of Harpado lies on the charger's breast
of black ;
The white foam of the charger on Harpado's front of dun ; —
Once more advance upon his lance, — once more, thou
fearless one ! *'
186 SPAIN. ^
There are various circumstances closely con-
nected with the train of thought I have here
touched upon ; but I forbear to mention them,
for fear of drawing out this introductory chapter
to too great a length. Some of them will nat-
urally find a place hereafter. Meanwhile let us
turn the leaf to a new chapter, and to subjects
of a livelier nature.
A TAILOR'S DRAWER.
Nedyb, threde, thymbell, shen, and all snche knackes.
Tux Four Ps.
A tailor's drawer, did you say ?
Yes; a tailor's drawer. It is, indeed, rather
a quaint rubric for a chapter in the pilgrim's brev-
iary ; albeit it well befits the motley character
of the following pages. It is a title which the
Spaniards give to a desultory discourse, wherein
various and discordant themes are touched upon,
and which is crammed full of little shreds and
patches of erudition ; and certainly it is not inap«
propriate to a chapter whose contents are of every
shape and hue, and ^^ do no more adhere and
keep pace together than the hundreth psalm to
the tune of Green Sleeves."
188 A tailor's drawer.
II.
It is recorded in the Adventures of Gil Bias
de Santillana, that, when this renowned personage
first visited the city of Madrid, he took lodgings
at the house of Mateo Melandez, in the Puerta
del Sol. In choosing a place of ahode in the
Spanish court, I followed, as far as practicable,
this illustrious example ; but, as the kind-hearted
Mateo had been long gathered to his fathers, I
was content to take up my residence in the hired
house of Valendn Gonzalez, at the foot of the
Calle de la Montera. My apartments were in
the third story, above the dust, though not be-
yond the rattle, of the street ; and my balconies
looked down into the Puerta del Sol, the heart
of Madrid, through which circulates the livii^
current of its population at least once eveiy
twenty-four hours.
The Puerta del Sol is a public square, from
which diverge the five principal streets of the
metropolis. It is the great rendezvous of grave
^d &7j — o^ priest and layman, — of gentle and
simple, — the mart of business and of gossip, —
the place where the creditor seeks his debtor,
where the lawyer seeks his client, where the
A tailor's drawer. 189
stranger seeks amusement, where tBe friend seeks
his friend, and the foe his foe ; where the idler
seeks the sim in winter, and the shade in sum-
mer, and the busybody seeks the daily news, and
picks up the crumbs of gossip to fly away with
them in Ms beak to the tertulia of Dona Faquita !
TeD me, ye who have sojourned in foreign
lands, and know in what bubbl.es a traveDer's
happiness consists, — is it not a blessing to have
yoxu: window overlook a scene like this ?
III.
There, — take that chair upon the balcony,
and let us look down upon the busy scene beneath
us. What a continued roar the crowded thor-
oughfare sends up ! Though three stories high,
we can hardly hear the sound of our own voices !
The London cries are whispers, when compared
with the cries of Madrid.
See, — yonder, stalks a gigantic peasant of
New Castile, with a montera cap, brown jacket
and breeches, and coarse blue stockings, forcmg
his way through the crowd, and leading a donkey
laden with charcoal, whose sonorous bray is in
unison with the harsh voice of his master. Close
at his elbow goes a rosy-cheeked damsel, selling
190 ▲ tailor's dbaweb.
calico. She "is an Asturian from the mountains
of Santander. How do you know ? By ba
short yellow petticoats^ — her blue bodice, ^ her
coral necklace and earrings. Throu^ the nud-
die of the square struts a peasant of Old Casttle,
with his yellow leather jerkin strapped about his
waist) — his brown leggins and his Uue garters, —
driving before Urn a flock of gabbling turkeysi
and crjring, at the top oS. Ins voice, ^'Paoy pao^
pavitos^ pao9 ! " Next comes a Valenciaii, with
his loose Imen trousers and sandal shoon, holdmg
a huge sack of watermelons upon his shoulder
with his left hand, and with tns right balancing
high m air a specimen of his luscious fruit, upon
which is perched a litde pjrramid of the erimsc»i
pulp, while he tempts the passers-by with ^^ Ji
cob, y ealando ; uf%a sandia pendo-O'O. Si t^o
t8 iangre /" (By the slice, — come and try it,
— watermelon for sale. This is the real blood!)
His companion near him has a pair of scales
thrown over his shoulder, and holds both arms
full of muskmelons. He chimes into the har-
monious ditty with ^^ Meh — meh-o-a-^-'imlon''
dtai ; aqui esta el az&ear ! '' (Melons, m^ns ;
hiore is the real sugar!) Bdiind them creeps
a slow-movii^ Asturian, in heavy wooden shoes.
▲ tailor's drawer. 191
crying watercresses ; and a peasant woman from
the Guadarrama Mountains, with a montera cock-
ed ap in front, and a bhie kerchief tied under her
chin, swings in each hand a bunch of live chick-
ens, -*- that hang by the claws, head downwards,
fluttering, scratching, crowing with all their m^t,
while the good woman tries to drown thehr rcHces
in the discordant cry of ^^ ^ Qvten me compra toi
gaUoy — tin par de gallinas ? " (Who buys a
cock, — a pair of fowb ? ) That tall fellow in
blue, with a pot ct flowers jxpan. his shoulder, is a
wi%, bejTtmd all dispute. See how cunningly he
cocks his eye up at us, and cries, ^^ Si ya ttwiera
bakan ! " (If I only had a balcony !)
What next ? A Manchego with a sack of o3
under his arm ; a Gallego with a huge water-jar
upon his shoulders ; an Italian pedler with images
of saints and madonnas ; a razor-grinder with his
wfaed ; a mender of pots and kettles, making
music, as he goes, with a shovel and a frying-pum ;
and, in fine, a noisy, patchwork, ever-changing
crowd, whose discordant cries mingle with the
rumbling of wheels, the clatter of hoofs, and the
clang of church-bells ; and make the Puerta del
Sol, at certain hours of the day, like a street in
Babylon the Great.
192 A tailor's drawer.
IV.
Chiton ! A beautiful girl, with flaxen hair,
blue eyes, and the form of a fairy in a midsum-
mer night's dream, has just stepped out on the
balcony beneath us ! See how coquettishly she
crosses her arms upon the balcony, thrusts her
dainty little foot through the bars, and plays
with her slipper! She is an Andalusian, from
Malaga. Her brother is a bold dragoon, and
wears a long sword ; so beware ! and ^^ let not
the creaking of shoes and the rustling of silks
betray thy poor heart to woman." Her mother
is a vulgar woman, " fat and forty " ; eats gar-
lic in her salad, and smokes cigars. But mind !
that is a secret ; I tell it to you in confidence.
V.
The following little ditty I translate from the
Spanish. It is as delicate as a dew-drop.
" She is a maid of artless grace,
Gentle in form, and fair of face.
" Tell me, thou ancient mariner,
That sailest on the sea,
If ship, or sail, or evening star
Be half so fair as she !
▲ tailor's drawer. 193
" Tell me, thou gallant cavalier.
Whose shining arms I see,
If steed, or sword, or battle-field
Be half so fair as she !
'* Tell me, thou swain, that guarcl'st thy flock
Beneath the shadowy tree,
If flock, or vale, or mountain-ridge
Be half so &ir as she ! "
VI.
A MILLER has just passed by, covered with
flour from head to foot, and perched upon the
tip end of a little donkey, crying " ndirre hor^
rico!^^ and at every cry swinging a cudgel in
his hand, and giving the ribs of the poor beast
what in the vulgar dialect is called a cachipor^
razo. I could not help laughing, though I felt
provoked with the fellow for his cruelty. The
truth is, I have great regard for a jackass. His
meekness, and patience, and long-suffering are
very amiable qualities, and, considering his sit-
uation, worthy of all praise. In Spain, a don-
key plays as conspicuous a part as a priest or a
village alcalde. There would be no getting along
without him. And yet, who so beaten and
abused as he i
13
194 A tailor's drawer.
VII.
Here comes a gay gallant, with white kid
gloves, a quizzing-glass, a black cane, with a
white ivojy pommel, and a little hat, cocked
pertly on one side of his head. He is an ex-
quisite fop, and a great lady's man. You will
always find him on the Prado at sunset, when
the crowd and dust are thickest, ogling through
his glass, flourishing his cane, and hummbg be-
tween his teeth some favorite air of tlie Semi-
ramis, or the Barber of Seville. He is a great
amateur, and patron of the Italian Opera, —
beats time with his cane, — nods his head, and
cries. Bravo ! — and fancies himself in love with
the Prima Donna. The height of his ambition
is to be thought the gay Lothario, — the gal-
lant Don Cortejo of his little sphere. He is
a poet withal, and daily besieges the heart of
the cruel Dona Inez with sonnets and madri-
gals. She turns a deaf ear to his song, and is
inexorable : —
** Mas que no sea mas piadosa
A dos escudos en prosa,
No puede ser."
▲ tailor's drawer. 195
VIII.
What a contrast between this personage and
the sallow, emaciated being who is now crossing
the street! It is a barefooted Carmelite, — a
monk of an austere order, — wasted by midnight
vigils and long penance. Abstinence is written
on that pale cheek, and the bowed head and
downcast eye are in accordance with the meek
profession of a mendicant brotherhood.
What is this world to thee, thou man of pen-
itence and prayer ? What hast thou to do with
all this busy, turbulent scene about thee, — with
all the noise, and gayety, and splendor of this
thronged city ? Nothmg. The wide world gives
thee nothing, save thy daily crust, thy crucifix,
thy convent-cell, thy pallet of straw ! Pilgrim
of heaven ! thou hast no home on earth. Thou
art journeying onward to ^^ a house not made with
hands " ; and, like the first apostles of thy faith, '
thou takest neither gold, nor silver, nor brass,
nor scrip for thy journey. Thou hast shut thy
heart to the endearments of earthly love, — thy
shoulder beareth not the burden with thy fellow-
man, — in all this vast crowd thou hast no friends,
no hopes, no sympathies. Thou standest aloof
196 A tailor's drawer.
from man, — and art thou nearer God ? I know
not. Thy motives, thy intentions, thy desires
are registered in heaven. I am thy fellow-man,
— and not thy judge.
" Who is the greater ? " says the German
moralist ; ^' the wise man who lifts himself above
the storms of time, and from aloof looks down
upon them, and yet takes no part therein, — or
he who from the height of quiet and repose throws
himself boldly into the battle-tumult of the world }
Glorious is it, when the eagle through the beat-
ing tempest flies into the bright blue heaven up-
ward ; but far more glorious, when, poising in the
blue sky over the black storm-abyss, he plunges
downward to his aerie on the cliff, where cower
his unfledged brood, and tremble."
IX.
Sultry grows the day, and breathless ! The
lately crowded street is silent and deserted, —
hardly a footfall, — hardly here and there a sol-
itary figure stealing along m the narrow strip
of shade beneath the eaves ! Silent, too, and
deserted is the Puerta del Sol ; so silent, that
even at this distance the splashing of its fountain
is distinctly audible, — so deserted, that not a
▲ tailor's drawer. 197
living thing is visible there, save the outstretched
and athletic form of a Galician water-carrier, who
lies asleep upon the pavement in the cool shad-
ow of the fountain ! There is not air enough
to stir the leaves of the jasmine upon the bal-
cony, or break the thin column of smoke that
issues from the cigar of Don Diego, master of
the noble Spanish tongue, y hombre de tnuchos
dingolondangos. He sits bolt upright between
the window and the door, with the collar of his
snuff-colored frock thrown back upon his shoul-
ders, and his toes turned out like a dancing-
master, poring over the Diario de Madrid, to
learn how high the thermometer rose yesterday, —
what patron saint has a festival to-day, — and at
what hour to-morrow the " Kmg of Spain, Je-
rusalem, and the Canary Islands " will take his
departure for the gardens of Aranjuez.
You have a proverb in your language, Don
Diego, which says,-
** Despues de comer
Ni un sobrescrito leer " ; —
after dinner read not even the superscription of
a letter. I shall obey, and indulge in the exqui-
site luxury of a siesta. I confess that I love
198 A tailor's draweh.
tbis after-dinner nap. If I have a gift, a voca-
tion for any thing, it is for sleeping ; and from
mj heart I can say with honest Sancho, ^' Blessed
be the man that first invented sleep ! " In a
sultry clime, too, where the noontide heat un->
mans you, and the cool starry night seems made
or any thing but slumber, I am willmg to barter
an hour or two of intense daylight for an hour
or two of tranquil, lovely, dewy night !
Therefore, Don Diego, hasta la vista !
It is evening ; the day is gone ; fast gather
and deepen the shades of twilight ! In the words
of a German allegory, ^' The babbling day has
touched the hem of night's garment, and, weary
and still, drops asleep in her bosom."
The city awakens from its slumber. The con-
vent-bells ring solemnly and slow. The streets
are thronged again. Once more I hear the shrill
cry, the rattling wheel, the murmur of the crowd.
The blast of a trumpet sounds from the Puerta
del Sol, — then the tap of a drum ; a mounted
guard opens the way, — the crowd doff their
hats, and the king sweeps by in a gilded coach
drawn by six horses, and followed by a long train
of uncouth, antiquated vehicles drawn by mules.
A tailor's drawer. 199
The living tide now sets towards the Prado,
9nd the beautiful gardens of the Retiiro. Beau-
tiful are they at this magic hour! Beautiful,
with the almond-tree in blossom, with the broad
green leaves of the sycamore and the chestnut,
*
with the fragrance of the orange and the lemon,
with the beauty of a thousand flowers, with the
soothing cabn and the dewy freshness of evening !
XI.
I LOVE to linger on the Prado till the crowd is
gone and the night far advanced. There musing
and alone I sit, and listen to the lulling fall of
waters in their marble fountains, and watch the
moon as it rises over the gardens of the Retire,
brighter than a northern sun. The beautiful
scene lies half in shadow, half in light, — almost
a fairy land. Occasionally the sound of a gui-
tar, or a distant voice, breaks in upon my revery.
Then the form, of a monk, from the neighbouring
convent, sweeps by me like a shadow, and dis-
appears in the gloom of the leafy avenues ; and
far away from the streets of the city comes the
voice of the watchman telling the midnight hour.
Lovely art thou, O Night, beneath the skies
of Spain ! D^, pantmg with heat, and laden
200 A tailor's drawer.
with a thousand cares, toils onward like a beast
of burden ; but Night, cafan, silent, holy Night,
is a ministering angel that cools with its dewy
breath the toil-heated brow ; and, like the Ro-
man sisterhood, stoops down to bathe the pil-
grim's feet. How grateful is the starry twilight !
How grateful the gentle radiance of the moon !
How grateful the delicious coolness of ^^ the om-
nipresent and deep-breathing air ! " Lovely art
thou, O Night, beneath the skies of Spain !
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS.
I love a ballad but even too well, if it be doleful matter
merrily set down, or a very pleasant thing indeed, and sung
lamentably.
Wibter's Tale.
How universal is the love of poetry ! Every
nation has its popular songs, the offspring of a
credulous simplicity and an unschooled fancy.
The peasant of the North, as he sits by the even-
ing fire, sings the traditionary ballad to his chil-
dren, —
'* Nor wants he gleeful tales, while round
The nut-brown bowl doth trot."
The peasant of the South, as he lies at noon in
the shade of the sycamore, or sits by his door
in the evening twilight, sings his amorous lay, and
listlessly,
" On hollow quills of oaten straw,
He pipeth melody."
202 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS.
The muleteer of Spain carols with the early lark,
amid the stormy mountains of his native land.
The vintager of Sicily has his evening hymn ;
the fisherman of Naples his boat-song ; the gon-
dolier of Venice his midni^t serenade. The
goatherd of Switzerland and the Tyrol, — the
Carpathian boor, — the Scotch Highlander, — the
English ploughboy, singing as he drives his team
afield, — peasant, — serf, — slave, — all, all have
their ballads and traditionary songs. Music is the
universal language of mankind, — poetry their
universal pastime and delight.
The ancient ballads of Spain hold a prominent
rank in her literary history. Their number is
truly astonishing, and may well startle the most
enthusiastic lover of popular song. The Ro-
mancero General "^ contains upwards of a thou-
sand ; and though upon many of these may justly
be bestowed the encomium which honest Izaak
Walton pronounces upon the old English ballad
of the Passionate Shepherd, — " old-fashioned
poetry, but choicely good," — yet, as a whole,
they are, perhaps, more remarkable for their
number than for their beauty. Every great his-
* Romancero General, en que se contiene todoa los Ro-
mances que andan impresos. 4to. Madrid, 1604.
APfCIEMT SPANISH BALLADS, 303
toric event, every marvellous tradition, has its
popular ballad. Don Roderick, Bernardo del
Carpip, and the Cid Campeador are not more
the heroes of ancient chronicle than of ancient
song ; and the imagmary. champions of Christen-
dom, the twelve peers of Charlemagne, have
found a historian in the wandering ballad-singer
no less authentic than the good Archbishop Tur-
pin.
Most of these ancient ballads had their origin
durmg the dominion of the Moors in Spain.
Many of them, doubtless, are nearly as old as
the events they celebrate ; though in their present
form the greater part belong to the fourteenth
century. The language in which they are now
preserved indicates ho higher antiquity ; but who
shall say how long they had been handed down
by tradition, ere they were taken from the lips
of the wandering minstrel, and recorded in a
more permanent form ?
The seven centuries of the Moorish sover-
eignty in Spain are the heroic ages of her his-
tory and her poetry. What the warrior achieved
with his sword the minstrel published in his song.
The character of those ages is seen in the char-
acter of their literature. History casts its shad-
204 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS.
ow far into the land of song. Indeed, the most
prominent characteristic of the ancient Spanish
ballads is their warlike spirit. They shadow
forth the majestic lineaments of the warlike ages ;
and through every line breathes a high and pe-
culiar tone of chivalrous feeling. It is not the
piping sound of peace, but a blast, — a loud,
long blast from the war-horn, —
^ A tramp with a Btern breath,
Which is cleped the tramp of death.
»i
And with this mingles the voice of lamentadon, —
the requiem for the slain, with a melancholy
sweetness : —
Rio Verde, Rio Verde !
Many a corpse is bathed in thee,
Both of Moors and eke of Christians,
Slain with swords most craelly.
And thy pure and crystal waters
Dappled are with crimson gore ;
For between the Moors and Christians
Long has been the fight and sore.
Dukes and counts fell bleeding near thee,
Lords of high renown were slain,
Perished many a brave hidalgo
Of the noblemen of Spain.
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS. 205
Another prominent characteristic of these an-
cient ballads is their energetic and beautiful sim-
plicity. A great historic event is described in
the fewest possible words ; there is no ornament,
no artifice. The poet's intention was to narrate,
not to embellish. It is truly wonderful to ob-
serve what force, and beauty, and dramatic pow-
er are given to the old romances by this single
circumstance. When Bernardo del Carpio leads
forth his valiant Leonese against the hosts of
Charlemagne, he animates their courage by allud-
ing to their battles with the Moors, and exclaims,
^' Shall the lions that have bathed their paws in
Libyan gore now crouch before the Frank ? "
When he enters the palace of the treacherous
Alfonso, to upbraid him for a broken promise,
and the king orders him to be arrested for con-
tumely, he lays his hand upon his sword and
cries, ^^ Let no one stir ! I am Bernardo ; and
my sword is not subject even to kings ! " When
the Count Alarcos prepares to put to death his
own wife at the king's command, she submits
patiently to her fate, asks time to say a prayer,
and then exclaims, ^^ Now bring me my infant
boy, that I may give him suck, as my last fare-
well ! " Is there in Homer an incident more
touching, or more true to nature ?
206 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS.
The ancient Spanish ballads naturally divide
themselves into three classes : — the Historic,
the Romantic, and the Moorish. It must be
confessed, however, that the line of demarkation
between these three classes is not well defined ;
for many of the Moorish ballads are historic,
and many others occupy a kind of debatable
ground between the historic and the romantic.
I have adopted this classification for the sake of
its convenience, and shall now make a few hasty
observations upon each class, and illustrate my
remarks by specimens of the ballads.
The historic baUads are those which recount
the noble deeds of the early heroes of Spain :
of Bernardo del Carpio, the Cid, Martin Pelaez,
Garcia Perez de Vargas, Alonso de Aguilar,
and many others whose names stand conspicuous
in Spanish history. Indeed, these baUads may
themselves be regarded in the liglit of historic
documents ; ,they are portraits of long-departed
ages, and if at times their features are exaggerated
and colored with too bold a contrast of light and
shade, yet the free and spirited touches of a
master's hand are recognized in all. They are
msdnct, too, with the spirit of Castilian pride,
with the high and dauntless spirit of liberty that
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS. 307
burned so fiercely of old in the heart of the
brave hidalgo. Take, for example, the ballad
of the Five Farthings. King Alfonso the Eighth,
having exhausted his treasury m war, wishes to
lay a tax of five farthmgs upon each of the Cas-
tilian hidalgos, in order to defray the expenses
of a journey from Burgos to Cuenca. This
proposition of the king was met with disdain by
the noblemen who had been assembled on the
occasion : —
Don Nuno, Count of Lara,
In anger and in pride,
Forgot all reverence for the king,
And thus in wrath replied : —
* Our noble ancestors,' quoth he,
* Ne*er such a tribute paid ;
Nor shall the king receive of us
What they have once gainsaid.
* The base-born soul who deems it just
May here with thee remain ;
But follow me, ye cavaliers.
Ye noblemen of Spain.*
Forth followed they the noble count,
They marched to Glera's plain ;
Out of three thousand gallant knights
Did only three remain.
•
208 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS,
They tied the tribute to their spears,
They raised it in the air,
And they sent to tell their lord the king
That his tax was ready there.
* He may send and take by force,' said they,
* This paltry sum of gold ;
But the goodly gift of liberty
Cannot be bought and sold.'
The same gallant spirit breathes through all
the historic ballads ; but, perhaps, most fervently
in those which relate to Bernardo del Carpio.
How spirit-stirring are all the speeches which
the ballad-writers have put into the mouth of this
valiant hero ! " Ours is the blood of the Goth,''
says he to Kmg Alfonso ; " sweet to us is lib-
erty, and bondage odious ! " — " The king may
give his castles to the Frank, but not his vassals ;
for kings themselves hold no dominion over the
free will ! " He and his followers would rather
die freemen than hVe slaves ! If these are the
common watchwords of liberty at the present
day, they were no less so among the high-bom
and high-souled Spaniards of the eighth century.
One of the finest of the historic ballads is that
which describes Bernardo's march to, Ronces-
valles. He sallies forth '^ with three thousand
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS. Sitif
Leonese and more,'' to protect the glory and
freedom of his native land. From all sides, the
peasantry of the land flock to the hero's stand-
ard: —
The peasant leaves his plough afield,
The reaper leaves his hook,
And from his hand the shepherd-boy
Lets fall the pastoral crook.
The joung set up a shout of joj.
The old forget their jears,
The feeble man grows stout of heart,
No more the craven fean.
All rush to Bernard's standard,
And on liberty they call ;
They cannot brook to wear the yoke.
When threatened by the Gaul.
* Free were we born,' 't is thus they cry,
< And willingly pay we
The duty that we owe our king.
By the divine decree.
*■ But God forbid that we obey
The laws of foreign knaves.
Tarnish the glory of our sires.
And make our children slaves.
*■ Our hearts have not so craven grown.
So bloodless all our veins.
So vigorless our brawny arms.
As to submit to chains.
14
310 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS.
* Has the audacious Frank, ibnooth,
Subdued these seas and lauds ?
Shall he a bloodless victory have ?
No ; not while we have hands.
* He shall learn that the gallant Leonese
Can bravely fight and fall ;
But that they know not how to yield ;
They are Castilians all.
*Was it for this the Roman power
Of old was made to yield
Unto Numantia's valiant hosts,
On many a bloody field ?
* Shall the bold lions, that have bathed
Their paws in Libyan gore.
Crouch basely to a feebler foe,
And dare the strife no more ?
' Let the false king sell town and tower.
Bat not his vassals firee ;
For to sabdue the free-born soul
No royal power hath he ! '
These short specimens will suffice to show the
spirit of the old heroic ballads of Spain ; tlie
Romances del Cid, and those that rehearse the
gallant achievements of many other champions,
brave and stalwart knights of old, I must leave
unnoticed, and pass to another field of chivalry
and song.
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS. 211
The next class of the ancient Spanish ballads
is the Romantic, including those which relate to
the Twelve Peers of Charlemagne and other im-
aginary heroes of the days of chivalry. There is
an exaggeration in the prowess of these heroes of
romance which is in accordance with the warmth
of a Spanish imagination ; and the ballads which
celebrate their achievements still go from mouth
to mouth among the peasantry of Spain, and are
hawked about the streets by the blind ballad-
monger.
Among the romantic ballads, those of the
Twelve Peers stand preeminent ; not so much
for their poetic merit as for the fame of their
heroes. In them are sung the valiant knights
whose history is written more at large in the prose
romances of chivalry, — Orlando, and Oliver, and
Montesmos, and Durandarte, and the Marques
de Mantua, and the other paladins, '^ que en una
mesa comian pan,^^ These ballads are of dif-
ferent length and various degrees of merit. Of
some a few lines only remain ; they are evidently
fragments of larger works ; while others^ on the
contrary, aspire to the length and dignity of epic
poems ; — witness the ballads of the Conde de
Irlos and the Marques de Mantua, each of which
313 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS.
consists of nearly a thousand long and sonorous
hexameters.
Among these ballads of the Twelve Peers
there are many of great beauty ; others possess
little merit, and are wanting in vigor and concise-
ness. From the structure of the versi6cation, I
should rank them among the oldest of the Span-
ish ballads. They are all monrhythmic, with fuU
consonant rhymes.
To the romantic ballads belong also a great
number which recount the deeds of less celebrat'*
ed heroes ; but among them all none is so curious
as that of Virgil. Like the old French romance-
writers of the Middle Ages, the early Spanish po-
ets introduce the Mantuan bard as a knight of
chivalry. The ballad informs us that a certain
king kept him imprisoned seven years, for what
old Brantome would call outrecuydance with a
certain Dona Isabel. But being at mass on Sun-
day, the recollection of Virgil comes suddenly
into his mmd, when he ought to be attending to
tlie priest ; and, turmng to his knights, he asks
them what has become of Virgil* One of them
replies, ^' Your Highness has him imprisoned in
your dungeons " ; to which the king makes an-
swer with the greatest coolness, by telling them
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS. 313
that the dinner is waiting, and that after they have
dmed they will pay Virgil a visit m his prison*.
Then up and spake the queen like a true heroine ;
quoth she, '^ I will not dine without him " ; and
straightway they all repaired to the prison, wher«
they find the incarcerated knight engaged in the
pleasant pastime of combing his hair and arrang*
in^ his beard. He tells the king very coolly that
on that very day he has been a prisoner seven
years , to this the king replies, '^ Hush, hush,
Virgil ; it takes three more to make ten."
*^ Sire," says Virgil, with the same philosophical
eomposiire, '^ if your Highness so ordains, I will
pass my whole life here." '^ As a reward for
your patience, you shall dine with me to-day,"
says the king. " My coat is torn," says Virgil ;
*^ I am not in trun to make a leg." But this
difficulty is removed by the promise of a new suit
from the king ; and tiiey go to dinner. Virgil
delights both knights and damsels, but most of all
Dona Isabel. The archbishop is called in ; they
are married forthwith, and the ballad closes like
a scene in some old play : — '^ He takes her by
the hand, and leads her to the garden."
Such is this curious ballad.
I now turn to one of the most beautifiil of
214 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS.
these ancient Spanish poems ; — it is the Ro-
mance del Conde Alarcos ; a ballad full of b-
terest and of touching pathos. The stoiy is
briefly this. The Count Alarcos, after being
secretly betrothed to the Infanta Solisa, forsakes
her and weds another lady. Many years after-
ward, the princess, sitting alone, as she was wont,
and bemoaning her forsaken lot, resolves to tell the
cause of her secret sorrow to the king her father ;
and, after confessing her clandestine love for Count
Alarcos, demands the death of the countess, to
heal her wounded honor. Her story awakens the
wrath of the king ; he acknowledges the justness
of her demand, seeks an interview with the count,
and sets the case before him in so strong a light,
that finally he wrings from him a promise to put
his wife to death with his own hand. The count
returns homeward a grief-stricken man, weeping
the sad destiny of his wife, and saying within
himself, " How shall I look upon her smile of
joy, when she comes forth to meet me ? '* The
countess welcomes his return with affectionate
tenderness ; but he is heavy at heart, and discon-
solate. He sits down to supper with his children
around him, but the food is untasted ; he hides
his (ace in his hands, and weeps. At length thejr
AI9CIENT SPANISH BALLADS. 215
retire to their chamber. In the language of Mr.
Lockhart's translation, —
** They came together to the bower, where they were used to
rest,—
None with them but the Httle babe that was upon the breast :
The count had barred the chamber-doors, — they ne'er
were barred till then :
* Unhappy lady,' he began, * and I most lost of men ! '
** * Now speak not so, my noble lord, my husband, and my life I
Unhappy never can she be that is Alarcos' wife ! '
* Alas ! unhappy lady, *t is but little that you know ;
For in that very word you 've said is gathered all your woe.
** * Long since I loved a lady, — long since I oaths did plight
To be that lady's husband, to love her day and night ;
Her father is our lord the king, ^-r to him the thing is known ;
And now — that I the news should bring ! — she claims me
for her own.
** * Alas ! my love, alas ! my life, the right is on their side ;
Ere I had seen your face, sweet wife, she was betrothed
my bride ;
But — O, that I should speak the word ! — since in her
place you lie.
It is the bidding of our lord that you this night must die.*
" ' Are these the wages of my love, so lowly and so leal ?
O, kill me not, thou noble Count, when at thy foot I kneel !
But send me to my father's house, where once I dwelt in
glee ;
There will I live a lone, chaste life, and rear my children
three.'
316 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS,
** * It may not be,— mine oath ia atrong, — ere dawo of day
you die.'
* O, well *t ia aeen how all alone upon the earth am I ! —
My fiithar ia an old, frail man ; my mother 'a in her pave ;
And dead ia atout Don Garci, — alaa ! my brother brave !
** ^ 'T waa at thia coward king'a command they slew my broth-
er dear,
And now I *m helploM in the land ! — it ia not death I fear.
But loth, loth am I to depart, and leave my children bo ; —
Now let me lay them to my heart, and kiaa them, ere I go.'
^ * Kiaa him that liea upon thy breaat,-— the reat thou mayat
not aee.'
* I fiun would aay an Ave.' * Then say it speedily.*
She knelt her down upon her knee, •— ' O Lord, behold
my case !
Judge not my deeda, bat look on me in pity and great graee ! '
** When she had made her orison, up firom her knees she
rose: —
* Be kind, Alarcoa, to our babes, and pray ibr my repose ;
And now give me my boy once more, upon my breaat to
hold.
That he may drink one farewell drink before my breaat be
cold.'
'^'Why would you waken the poor child? you see he ia
asleep;
Prepare, dear wife, there is no time, the dawn begins to
peep.'
' Now, hear me, Count Alarcos ! I give thee pardon free ;
I pardon thee for the love's sake wherewith I 've loved
thee] —
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS. 317
^ * Bat tbey have not my pardon, — the king and his proncl
daughter ;
The curse of God be on them, for this unchristian slaughter !
I charge them with my dying breath, ere thirty days be gone,
To meet me in the realm of death, and at God's awfhl
throne ! * "
The count then strangles her with a scarf, and
the ballad concludes with the fulfilment of the
dying lady's prayer, in the death of the king and
the Infanta within twenty days of her own.
Few, I think, will be disposed to question the
beauty of this ancient ballad, though the refined
and cultivated taste of many may revolt from the
seemingly unnatural incident upon which it is
founded. It must be recollected that this is a
scene taken fi*om a barbarous age, when the life
of even the most cherished and beloved was held
of little value in comparison with a chivalrous but
false and exaggerated point of honor. It must be
borne in mind also, that, notwithstanding the boast-
ed liberty of the Castilian hidalgos, and their fre-
quent rebellions agamst the crown, a deep rever-
ence for the divme right of kings, and a conse-
quent disposition to obey the mandates of the
throne, at almost any sacrifice, has always been
one of the prominent traits of the Spanish char-
acter. When taken in connection with these cir-
318 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS.
cumstances, the story of this old ballad ceases to
be SO grossly improbable as it seems at first sight ;
and, indeed, becomes an illustration of pational
character. In all probability, the story of the
Conde Alarcos had some foundation m fact.*
The third class of the ancient Spanish ballad^
is the Moorish. Here we enter a new world,
more gorgeous and more dazzling than that of
Gothic chronicle and tradition. The stem spirits
of Bernardo, the Cid, and Mudarra have passed
away ; the mail-clad forms of Guarinos, Orlan-
do, and Durandarte are not here ; the scene is
changed ; it is the bridal of Andalla ; the bull-
fight of Ganzul. The sunshine of Andalusia
glances upon the marble halls of Granada, and
green are the banks of the Xenil and the Darro.
A band of Moorish knights gayly arrayed in gam-
besons of crimson silk, with Scarfs of blue and
jewelled tahalies, sweep like the wind through the
square of Vivarambla. They ride to the Tour-
nament of Reeds ; the Moorish maiden leans
from the balcony ; bright eyes glisten from many
* This exaggerated reverence for the person and preroga-
tives of the king has furnished the groundwork of two of the
best dramas in the Spanish language ', La Estrella de SevUla^
by Lope de Vega, and Del Rey abajo Ifingvnoy by Francisco
de Rojas.
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS. 219
a lattice ; and the victorious knight receives the
prize of valor from the hand of her \^ose beauty
is like the star-lit night. These are the Xarifas,
the Celindas, and Lindaraxas, — the Andallas,
Ganzules, and Abenzaydes of Moorish song.
Then comes the sound of the silver clarion, and
the roll of the Moorish atabal, down from the
snowy pass of the Sierra Nevada and across the
gardens of the Vega. Alhama has fallen ! woe is
me, Alhama ! The Christian is at the* gates of
Granada ; the banner of the cross floats from the
towers of the Alhambra ! And these, too, are
themes for the minstrel, — themes sung alike by
Moor and Spaniard.
Among the Moorish ballads are included not
only those which were originally composed in
Arabic, but all that relate to the manners, cus-
toms, and history of the Moors in Spain. In
most of them the influence of an Oriental taste is
clearly visible ; their spirit is more refined and ef-
feminate than that of the historic and romantic
ballads, in which no trace of such an influence is
perceptible. The spirit of the Cid is stem, un-
bending, steel-clad ; his hand grasps his sword
Tizona ; his heel wounds the flank of his steed
Babieca.
330 AlfCIENT SPAIVI8H BALLADS,
** La mano aprieta A TizoiMi
Y el talon fiere A Babieca."
But the spirit of Arbolan the Moor, though reso-
lute in camps, is efieminatein cqurts ; he is a
diamond among scymitars, yet graceful in the
dance; —
** Diamante entre Ids alfanges,
Gracioeo en baylar las zambraa.**
The ancient ballads are stamped with the charac*
ter of dieir heroes. Abundant illustrations of this
could be given, but it is not necessary.
Among die most spirited of the Moorish ballads
are those which are interwoven in the History of
the Civil Wars of Granada. The following, en-
tided ^^ A very mournful Ballad on the Siege and
Conquest of Alhama," is very beautiful ; and such
was the effect it produced upon the Moors, that it
was forbidden, on pain of death, to sing it within
the walls of Granada. The translation, which is
executed with great skill and fidelity, is from the
pen of Lord Byron.
** The Moorish king rides up and down,
Through Granada's royal town ;
From Elvira's gates to those
Of Bivarambla on be goes.
Woe is me, Alhama !
4
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS. 221
'* Letters to the monarch tell
How Alhama's city fell ',
In the fire the icroU he threw.
And the messenger he slew.
' Woe is me, Alhama !
4
** He quits his mulei and mounts his homs,
And through thestreet directs his course ',
Through the street of Zacatin
To the Aibambn^ spurring in.
Woe is me, Alhama !
'* When the Alhambra's walls he gained,
On the moment he ordained
That the trumpet straight should souttd
With the silver clarion round.
Woe is me,- Alhama !
" And when the hollow drums of fnt
Beat the loud alarm alar.
That the Moors of town and plain
Might answer to the martial strain, >«*•
Woe is me, Alhama !
" Then the Moors, by this aware
That bloody Mars recalled them there.
One by one, and two by two,
To a mighty squadron grew.
Woe is me, Alhama ! .*
^ Out then spake an aged Mocv
In these words the king bbfbre : •*—
* Wherefore call on us, O king f
What may mean this gathering ? '
Woe is me, Alhama !
222 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS.
'* * Friends ! ye faaye, alas ! to know
Of a most disastrous blow ;
That the Christians, stern and bold,
Hare obtained Albania's hold.'
Woe is me, Alhama !
** Oat then spake old Alfaqui,
With his beard so white to see : —
* Good king, thou art justly served ;
Good king, this thou ha^t deserved.
Woe is me, Alhama !
^ * By thee were slain, in evil hour,
The Abencerrage, Granada's flower ;
And strangers were received by thee
Of C6rdova the chivalry.
Woe is me, Alhama !
^ * And for this, O king ! is sent
On thee a double chastisement ;
Thee and thine, thy crown and realm.
One last wreck shall overwhelm.
Woe is me, Alhama .'
" ' He who holds no laws in awe.
He muM perish by the law ;
And Granada must be won,
And thyself with her undone.'
Woe is me, Alhama !
** Fire flashed from out the old Moor's eyes ;
The monarch's wrath began to rise.
Because he answered, and because
He spake exceeding well of laws.
Woe is me, Alhama !
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS. 223
" * There is no law to say such things
As may disgust the ear of kings ! '
Thus, snorting with his c holer, said
The Moorish king, and doomed him dead.
Woe is me, Alhama ! "
Such are the ancient ballads of Spain ; poems
which, like the Gothic cathedrals of the Middle
Ages, have outlived, the names of their builders.
They are the handiwork of wandering, homeless
minstrels, who for their daily bread thus "built
the lofty rhyme " ; and whose names, like their
dust and ashes, have long, long been wrapped in
a shroud. " These poets," says an anonymous
writer, " have left behind them no trace to which
the imagination can attach itself ; they have ^ died
and made no sign.' We pass from the infancy
of Spanish poetry to the age of Charles, through
a long vista of monuments without inscriptions, as
the traveller approaches the noise and bustle of
modem Rome through the lines of silent and un-
known tombs that border the Appian Way."
Before closing this essay, I must allude to the
unfavorable opinion which the learned Dr. South-
ey has expressed concerning the merit of these
old Spanish ballads. In his preface to the Chron-
icle of the Cid, he says, — *' The heroic ballads of
324 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS.
«
the Spaniards have been overrated in tbis country ;
thej are infinitely and every way inferior to our
own ; there are some spirited ones in the Guerras
Civiles de Granada, from which the rest have
been estimated ; but, excepting these, I know none
of any value among the many hundreds which I
have perused." On this field I am willing to do
battle, thou^ it be with a veteran knight who
bears enchanted arms, and whose sword, like that
of Martin Antolinez, ^^ illumines all the field."
That the old Spanish ballads may have been over-
rated, and that as a whole they are inferior to the
English, I concede ; that many of the hundred
ballads of the Cid are wanting m interest, and that
many of those of the Twelve Peers of France
are languid, and drawn out beyond the patience
of the most patient reader, I concede ; I willingly
confess, also, that among them all I have found
none that can rival in graphic power the short but
wonderful ballad of Sir Patrick Spence, wherein
the mariner sees "the new moon with the old
moon in her arm," or the' more modem one of the
Battle of Agmcourt, by Michael Dra3rton, begin-
nbg,—
^ Fair itood the wind for Frtnoe,
As we «ur sails advance,
Nor now to prove our chance
Longer will tarry ;
ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS. 225
•
But putting to the main,
At Caux, the mouth of Seine,
With all his martial train,
Landed King Harry."
All this I read3y concede ; but that the old Span-
ish ballads are infinitely and every way inferior to
the English, and that among them all there are none
of any value, save a few which celebrate the civil
wars of Granada, — this I deny. The March
of Bernardo del Carpio is hardly inferior to Chevy
Chase ; and the ballad of the Conde Alarcos, in
simpUcity and pathos, has no peer in all English
balladry, — it is superior to Edem o' Gordon.
But a truce to criticism. Already, methinks, I
hear the voice of a drowsy and prosaic herald
proclainung, in the language of Don Quixote to
the puppet-player, " Make an end, Master Peter ;
for it grows toward supper-time, and I have some
symptoms of hunger upon me."
15
THE
VILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO.
When the lawyer is swallowed up with business, and the
statesman is preventing or contriving plots, then we sit on
cowslip banks, hear the birds sing, and possess ourselves in
as much quietness as these silent silver streams we now see
glide so quietly by us.
IZAAK WaLTOIT.
In that delicious season when the C07 and ca-
pricious maidenhood of spring is swelling into the
warmer, riper, and more voluptuous womanhood
of summer, I left Madrid for the village of El
Pardillo. I had already seen enough of the vil-
lages of the North of Spain to know that for the
most part they have few charms to entice one
from the city ; but I was curious to see the peas-
antry of the land in their native homes, — to see
how far the shepherds of Castile resemble those
who sigh and sing in the pastoral romances of
Montemayor and Gaspar Gil Polo.
I love the city and its busy hum ; I love that
glad excitement of the crowd which niakes the
THE TILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO. 227
puise beat quick, the freedom from restraint, the
absence of those cm'ious eyes and idle tongues
which persecute one* in villages and provincial
towns. I love the country, too, in its season ;
and there is no scene over which my eye roves
with more delight than the face of a summer
landscape dimpled with soft sunny hollows, and
smiling in all the freshness and luxuriance of
June. There is no book in which I read sweet-
er lessons of virtue, or find the beauty of a quiet
life more legibly recorded. My heart drinks in
the tranquillity of the scene ; and I never hear
the sweet warble of a bird from its native wood,
without a silent wish that such a cheerful voice
and peaceful shade were mine. There is a beau-
tiful moral feeling connected with every thing in
rural life, which is not dreamed of in the phi-
losophy of the city ; the voice of the brook and
the language of the winds and woods are no po-
etic fiction. What an impressive lesson is there
in the opening bud of spring ! what an eloquent
homily in the fall of the autumnal leaf! How
well does the song of a passing bird represent
the glad but transitory days of youth ! and in
the hollow tree and hooting owl what a melan-
choly image of the decay and imbecility of old
228 THE VILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO.
age ! In the beautiful language of an English
poet,— ^
" Your yoicelen lips, O flowers, are living preachers,
Each cop a pulpit, every leaf a book,
Supplying to my fancy numerous teachers.
From loneliest nook.
** *Neath cloistered boughs each floral bell that swingetfa,
And tolls its perfume on the passing air.
Makes Sabbath in the fields, and ever ringeth
A call to prayer ;
'* Not to the domes where crumbling arch and column
Attest the feebleness of mortal hand,
But to that fane most catholic and solemn
Which God hath planned ;
**• To that cathedral, boundless as our wonder,
Whose quenchless lamps the sun and moon supply, —
Its choir the winds and waves, — its organ thunder, —
Its dome the sky.
** There, amid solitude and shade, I wander
Through the green aisles, and, stretched upon the sod,
Awed by the silence, reverently ponder
The ways of God."
But the traveller who journeys through the
northern provinces of Spain will look in vain
for the charms of rural scenery in the villages
THE TILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO. 229
be passes. Instead of trim cottages, and gar-
dens, and the grateful shade of trees, he will
see a cluster of stone hovels roofed' with red
tiles and basking in the hot sun, without a single
tree to lend him shade or shelter ; and instead
of green meadows and woodlands vocal with the
song of birds, he will find bleak and rugged
mountains, and vast extended plains, that stretch
away beyond his ken.
It was my good fortune, however, to find, not
many leagues from the metropolis, a village which
could boast the shadow of a few trees. El Par-
dillo is situated on the southern slope of the
Guadarrama Mountains, just where the last brok-
en spurs of the sierra stretch forward into the
vast table-land of New Castile. The village
itself, like most other Castilian villages, is only
a cluster of weather-stained and dilapidated hous-
es, iiuddled together without beauty or regular-
ity ; but the scenery around it is picturesque, —
a mingling of hill and dale, sprinkled with patch-
es of cultivated land and clumps of forest-trees ;
and in the background the blue, vapory outline of
the Guadarrama Mountains melting into the sky.
In this quiet place I sojourned for a season,
accompanied by the publican Don Valentin and
2S0 THE TILLAGE OW EL PAEDILLO.
his fair daughter Florencia. We took up our
abode in the cottage of a peasant named Lucas,
an honest tiller of the soil, sinaple and good**
natured; or, in the more emphatic language of
Don Valentin, ^^un hombre muy infelizj y tin
malieia ninguna.^^ Not so his wife Martina ;
she was a Tartar, and so mettlesome withal, that
poor Lucas skulked dc^edly about his own
premises, with his head down and his tail be«
tween his legs.
In this litde village my occupations were few
and simple. My morning's walk was to the
Cross of Espalmado, a large wooden crucifix
in the fields ; die day was passed with books,
or with any idle companion I was lucky enou^
to catch by the button, and bribe with a cigar
into a long story, or a litde village gossip ; and
I whiled away the evening in peeping round
among the cottagers, studying the beautiful land-
scape that spread before me, and watching the
occasional gathering of a storm about the blue
peaks of the Guadarrama Mountains. My fa*
vorite haunt was a secluded spot in a little wood*
land valley, through which a crystal brook ran
brawling along its pebbly channel. There, stretch-
ed in the shadow of a tree, I often passed, the
THE TILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO. 231
hours of noontide heat, now reading the ma^c
numbers of Garcilaso, and anon listening to the
song of the nightingale overhead ; or watching
the toil of a patient ant, as he rolled his stone,
like Sisyphus, up-hill, or the flight of a bee dart-
ing from flower to flow^, and ^^ hiding his mur^
murs in the rose."
Blame me not, thou studious nioralist, — blame
me not unheard for this idle dreaming ; such mo-
ments are not wholly thrown away. In the lan-
guage of Goethe, '^ I lie down m the grass near
a falling brook, and close to the earth a thou-
sand varieties of grasses become perceptible.
When I listen to the hum of the little world
between the stubble, and see the countless in-
describable forms of ipsects, I feel the presence
of the Almighty who has created us, — the
breath of the All-benevolent who supports us in
perpetual enjoyment."
The village church, too, was a spot around
which 1 occasionally lingered of an evenmg, when
m pensive or melancholy mood. And here, gen-
tle reader, thy ima^nation will straightway con-
jure up a scene of ideal beauty, — a village church
with decent white-washed walls, and modest spire
just peeping forth from a ekimp of trees ! No ;
332 THE TILLAGE OW EL PARDILLO.
I will not deceive thee; — the church of £1 Par-
dillo resembles not this picture of thjr well tutored
fancy. It is a gloomy little edifice, standii^
upon the outskirts of the yiilage, and built of
dark and unhewn stone, with a spire like a sugar-
.loaf. There is no grass-plot in front, but a little
esplanade beaten hard by the footsteps of the
church-going peasantry. The tombstone of one
of the patriarchs of the village serves as a door-
step, and a single solitary tree throws its friendly
shade upon the portals of the little sanctuary.
One evening, as I loitered around this spot,
the sound of an organ and the chant of youth-
ful voices from within struck my ear ; the church-
door was ajar, and I entered. There stood the
priest, surrounded by a group of children, who
were singing a hymn to the Virgin : —
'* Aye, Regina coBlorum,
Aye, Domina angelorum.
tf
There is somethmg exceedingly thrilling in the
voices of children singing. Though their music
be unskilful, yet it finds its way to the heart with
wonderful celerity. Voices of cherubs are they,
for they breathe of paradise ; clear, liquid tones,
that flow from pure lips and innocent hearts, like
THE VILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO. 233
the sweetest notes of a flute, or the falling of
water from a fountain ! When the chant was
finished, the priest opened a little book which
he held in his hand, and began, with a voice as
solemn as a funeral bell, to question this class
of roguish little catechumens, whom he was in-
itiating into the mysterious doctrmes of the moth-
er church. Some of the questions and answers
were so curious, that I cannot refrain from repeat-
ing them here ; and should anjr one doubt their
authenticity, he will find them in the Spanish
catechisms.
" In what consists the mystery of the Holy
Trinity ? "
*^ In one God, who is three persons ; and three
persons, who are but one God."
"But tell me, — three human persons, are
they not three men ? "
« Yes, father."
" Then why are not three divine persons three
Gods ? "
" Because three human persons have three
human natures ; but the three divine persons have
only one divine nature."
" Can you explain this by an example ? "
" Yes, father ; as a tree which has three
334 THE TILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO.
branches is still but one tree, since all the three
branches spring from one trunk, so the three di-
vine persons are but one God, because thejr all
have the same divine nature."
^^ Where were these three divine persons be-
fore the heavens and the earth were created ? "
" In themselves."
^^ Which of them was made man ? "
" The Son."
^^And after the Son was made man, was he
still God ? "
^' Yes, father ; for in becoming man he did
not cease to be God, any more than a man when
he becomes a monk ceases to be a man."
^' How was the Son of God made flesh ? "
" He was bom of the most holy Virgin Mary."
^' And can we still call her a virgin ? "
" Yes, father ; for as a ray of the sun may
pass through a pane of glass, and the glass re-
main unbroken, so the Virgin Mary, after the
birth of her son, was a pure and holy virgin as
before." *
* This illustratioii was also made use of during the dark
ages. Pierre de Corbiac, a Troubadour of the thirteenth cen-
tury, thus introduces it in a poem entitled Prayer to the Vir-
gin:—
THE VILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO. 235
" Who died to save and redeem us ? "
^^ The Son of God : as man, and not as God."
^^ How could he suffer and die as man only,
being both God and man, and yet but one per-
son ? "
^^ As in a heated bar of iron upon which water
is thrown, the heat only is affected and not the
iron, so the Son of God suffered in his human
nature and not in his divine."
^^ And when the spirit was separated from his
most precious body, whither did the spirit go ? "
^^ To limbo, to glorify the souls of the holy
fathers."
« And the body ? "
** It was carried to the grave."
^^ Did the divinity remam united with the spirit
or with the body ? "
^' With both; As a soldier, when he unsheathes
his sword, remains united both with the sword and
I ii
** Domna, verges pur* e fina
Ans que fbs V enfantamena,
£t apres tot eissameDs,
De Yos trais sa cam hnmana
Jhesu-Christ oostre salvaire ;
Si com sea trencamens faire
Intra'l bel rais quan solelha
Per ]a fenestra veirina.'*
236 THE VILLAGE OW EL PARDILLO.
the sheath, though they are separated from each
other, so did the divinity remain united both with
the spirit and body of Christ, though the spirit
was separated and removed from the body."
I did not quarrel with the priest for having
been bom and educated in a dilSerent faith from
mme ; but as I left the church and sauntered
slowly homeward, I could not help asking my-
self, in a whisper, Why perplex the spirit of a
child with these metaphysical subtUties, these
dark, inysterious speculations, which man in aU
his pride of intellect cannot fathom or explain ?
I must not forget, in this place, to make honor-
able mention of the litde great men of El Par-
dillo. And first in order comes the priest. He
was a short, portly man, serious in manner, and
of grave and reverend presence ; though at the
same time there was a dash of the joUy-fat-friar
about him ; and on hearing a good joke or a sly
innuendo, a smile would gleam in his eye, and
play over his round face, like the light of a glow-
worm. His housekeeper was a brisk, smiling
litde woman, on the shady side of thirty, and a
cousin of his to boot. Whenever she was men-
tioned, Don Valentin looked wise, as if this
cousinship were apocryphal ; but he said noth-
THE VILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO* 237
ing, — not he ; what right had he to be peeping
into other people's business, when he had only
one eye to look after his own withal ? Next in
rank to the Dominie was the Alcalde, justice
of the peace and quorum ; a most potent, grave,
and reverend personage, with a long beak of a
nose, and a pouch under his chin, like a pelican.
He was a man of few words, but great in author-
ity ; and his importance was vastly increased in
the viUage by a pair of double-barrelled specta-
cles, so contrived, that, when bent over his desk
and deeply buried in bis musty papers, he could
look up and see what was going on around him
without moving his head, whereby he got the
reputation of seeing twice as much as other peo-
ple. There was the village surgeon, too, a tall
man with a varnished hat and a starved dog ; he
ft
had studied at the University of Salamanca, and
was pompous and pedantic, ever and anon quot-
ing some threadbare maxim from the Greek phi-
losophers, and embellishing it with a commentary
of his own. Then there was the gray-headed Sac-
ristan, who rang the church-bell, played on the
organ, and was learned in tombstone lore ; a Pol-
itician, who talked me to death about taxes, lib-
erty, and the days of the constitution ; and a
338 THE VILLAGE OF EL FARDILLO.
Notary Public, a poor man with a large family,
who would make a paper-cigar last half an hour,
and who kept up his respectability in the village
by keeping a horse.
Beneath the protecting shade of these great
men full many an inhabitant of El Pardillo was
bom and buried. The village continued to flour-
ish, a quiet,' happy place, though all unknown
to fame. The inhabitants were orderly and in-
dustrious, went regularly to mass and confession,
kept every saint's day in the calendar, and de-
voutly hung Judas once a year in effigy. On
Sundays and all other holydays, when mass was
over, the time was devoted to sports and recre-
ation ; and the day passed off in social visiting,
and athletic exercises, such as running, leaping,
wrestling, pitching quoits, and heaving the bar.
When evening came, the merry sound of the
guitar summoned to the dance ; then every nook
and alley poured forth its youthfid company, —
light of heart and heel, and decked out in all the
holyday finery of flowers, and ribands, and crim-
son sashes. A group gathered before the cot-
tage-door ; the signal was given, and away whirl-
ed the merry dancers to the wild music of voice
and guitar, and the measured beat of castanet
and tambourine.
THE VILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO. 239
I love these rural dances, — from my heart I
love them. This world, at best, is so full of care
and sorrow, — the life of a poor man is so stained
with the sweat of his brow, — there is so much
toU, and strugglbg, and anguish, and disappoint-
ment here below, that I gaze with delight on a
scene where all these are laid aside and forgotten,
and the heart of the toil-worn peasant seems to
throw off its load, and to leap to tlie sound of
music, when merrily,
^* beneath soft eve*s consenting star,
Fandango twirls his jocund castanet."
Not many miles from the village of El Par-
dillo stands the ruined castle of Villafranca,
an ancient strongliold of the Moors of the fif-
teenth century. It is built upon the summit of a
hiU, of easy ascent upon one side, but precipitous
and inaccessible on the other. The front pre-
sents a large, square tower, constituting tiie main
part of tlie castle ; on one side of which an
arched gateway leads to a spacious court-yard
within, surrounded by battlements. The comer
towers are circular, with beetling turrets ; and
here and there, apart from the main body of the
castle, stand several circular basements, whose
340 THE VILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO.
towers have fallen and mouldered into dust.
From the balcony in the square tower, the eye
embraces the level landscape for leagues and
leagues around ; and beneath, in the depth of
the valley, lies a beautiful grove, alive with the
song of the nightingale. The whole castle is in
ruin, and occupied only ks a hunting-lodge, bebg
inhabited by a solitary tenant, who has chaise
of the adjacent domain.
One hblyday, when mass was said and the
whole village was let loose to play, we made a
pilgrimage to the ruins of tliis old Moorish al*
cazar. Our cavalcade was as modey as that of .
old, — the pilgrims " that toward Canterbury
wolden ride " ; for we had the priest, and the
doctor of physic, and the m^ of laws, and a
wife of Bath, and many more whom I must leave
unsung. Merrily flew the hours and fast ; and
sitting after dinner in the gloomy hall of that old
castle, many a tale was told, and many a legend
and tradition of the past conjured up to satisfy
the curiosity of the present.
Most of these tales were about the Moors who
built the castle, and the treasures they had buried
beneath it. Then the priest told the story of a
lawyer who sold himself to the devil for a pot
THE VILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO. 241
of money, and was burnt by the Holy Inquisi-
tion therefor. In his confession, he told how
he had learned from a Jew the secret of raising
the devil ; how he went to the castle at midnight
with a book which the Jew gave him, and, to
make the charm sure, carried with him a load*
stone, six nails from the coffin of a child of three
years, six tapers of rosewax, made by a child
of four years, the skin and blood of a young
kid, an iron fork, with which the kid had been
killed, a few hazel-rods, a flask of high-proof
brandy, and some lignum-vits charcoal to make
a fire. When he read in the book, the devil
appeared in the shape of a man dressed in flesh-
colored clothes, with long nails, and large fiery
eyes, and he signed an agreement with him writ-
ten in blood, promising never to go to mass, and
to ^ve him his soul at the end of eight years ;
in return for this, he was to have a million of
dollars in good money, which the devil was to
bring to him the next night ; but when the next
night ,came, and the lawyer had conjured firom
his book, instead of the devil, there appeared, —
who do you think ? — the alcalde with half the
village at his heels, and the poor lawyer was
16
242 THE TILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO.
hancled over to the Inquisition, and burnt for
dealing in the black art.
I intended to repeat here some of the many
tales that were told ; but, upon reflection, they
seem too frivolous, and must therefore give place
to a more serious theme.
THE
DEVOTIONAL POETRY OF SPAIN.
Heaven's dove, when highest he flies,
Flies with thy heavenly wings.
Crashaw.
There is hardly a chapter in literary history
more stroogly marked with the pecuUarities of
national character than that which contains the
moral and devotional poetry of Spain. It "would
naturally be expected that in this department of
Eterature all the ferv^oicy and depth of national
feeling would be exhibited. But still, as the
spirit of morality and devotion is the same,
wherever it exists, — as the enthusiasm of virtue
and religion is everywhere essentially the same
feeling, though modified in its degree and in its
action by a variety of physical causes and local
circumstances, — and as the subject of the di-
dactic verse and the spiritual canticle cannot be
materially changed by the change of nation and
elimate, it might at the first glance seem quite
244 THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN.
as natural to expect that the moral and devotional
poetry of Christian countries would never be
very strongly marked with national peculiarities.
In other words, we should expect it to corre-
spond to the warmth or coldness of national feel-
ing, for it is the external and visible expression
of this feeling ; but not to the distinctions of
national character, because, its nature and' object
being everywhere the same, these distinctions
become swallowed up in one universal Christian
character.
In moral poetry this is doubtless true. The
great principles of Christian morality being eter-
nal and invariable, the verse which embodies
and represents them must, from this very cir-
cumstance, be the same in its spirit through all
Christian lands. The same, however, is not
necessarily true of devotional or religious poetry.
There, the language of poetry is something more
than the visible image of a devotional spirit. It
is also an expression of religious faith ; shadow-
ing forth, with greater or less distinctness, its
various creeds and doctrines. As these are dif-
ferent in different nations, the spirit that breathes
in religious song, and the letter that gives utter-
ance to the doctrine of faith, will not be univer-^
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN. 245
sally the same. Thus, Catholic nations sing the
praises of the Virgb Mary in language in which
nations of the Protestant faith do not unite ; and
among Protestants themselves, the difference of
interpretations, and the consequent belief or dis-
belief of certain doctrines, give a various spirit
and expression to religious poetry. And yet,
in all, the devotional feeling, the heavenward vo-
lition, is the same.
As far, then, as peculiarities of religious faith
exercise an influence upon intellectual habits, and
thus become a part of national character, so far
will the devotional or religious poetry of a coun-
try exhibit the c*haracteristic peculiarities result-
ing from this influence of faith, and its assim-
ilation with the national mind. Now Spain is
by preeminence the Catholic land of Christen-
dom. Most of her historic recollections are
more or less intimately associated with the tri-
umphs of the Christian faith; and many of her
warriors — of her best and bravest — were mar-
tyrs in the holy cause, perishing in that war
of centuries which was carried on within her
own territories between the crescent of Mahomet
and the cross of Christ. Indeed, the whole
tissue of her history is interwoven with mirac-
246 THE DETOTIOHAL POBTET OF 8PAIN.
ulous tradition. The intenrendon of her patron
saint has saved her honor in more than one dan*
gerous pass ; and the war^shout of ^^ SanHago^
y derra Espaha!^^ has worked like a charm
upon the wavering spirit of the soldier. A re-
liance on the guardian ministry of the saints p«.
vades the whole people, and devoti<Hial offerings
for signal preservation in times of danger and
distress cover the consecrated walls of churches.
An enthusiasm of religious feeling, and of ex-
ternal ritual observances, prevails throughout the
land. But more particularly is the name of the
Yiiffn honored and adored. JStve JUaria is the
salutation of peace at the friendly threshold, and
the God-speed to the wayfarer. It is the even-
ing orison, when the toils of day are done ; and
at midnight it echoes along the solitary streets
in the voice of the watchman's cry.
These and similar peculiarities of religious
faith are breathing and moving throi^h a large
portion of the devotional poetry of Spain. It
is not only instinct with religious feeling, but in-
corporated with ^^the substance of thmgs not
seen." Not only are the poet's' lips touched
with a coal from the altar, but his spirit is folded
m the cloud of incense that rises before the
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN. 247
shrines of the Virgin Mother, and the glorious
company of the sabts and martjrrs. His soul
is not wholly swallowed up in the contemplation
of the sublime attributes of the Eternal Mind ;
but, with its lamp trimmed and burning, it goeth
out to meet the bridegroom, as if he were coming
in a bodily presence.
The history of the devotional poetry of Spain
commences with the legendary lore of Maestro
Gonzalo de Berceo, a secular priest, whose life
was passed m the cloisters of a Benedictine con*
vent, and amid the shadows of the thirteenth cen-
tory* The name of Berceo stands foremost on
the catalogue of Spanish poets, for the author
of the Poem of the Cid is unknown. The old
patriarch of Spanish poetry has left a monument
of his existence in upwards of thirteen thousand
alexandrines, celebrating the lives and miracles
of saints and the Virgin, as he found them written
in the Latin chronicles and dusty legends of his
monastery. In embodying these in rude verse
m roman paladino^ or the old Spanish romance
tongue, intelligible to the common people, Fray
Gonzalo seems to have passed his life. His
writmgs are just such as we should expect from
the pen of a monk of the thirteenth century.
248 THE DEVOTIONAL POETRY OF SPAIN.
They are more ghosdy than poetical ; and through-
out, unction holds the place of bspiration. Ac-
cordingly, they illustrate very fuUy the preeeding
remarks ; and the more so, j^iasmuch as they are
written with the most ample and childish credu-
lity, and the utmost singleness of faith touching
the events and miracles described.
The following extract is taken from' one of
Berceo's poems, entitled ^^ Vida de San Mil"
lan.^^ It is a description of the miraculous
appearance of Santiago and San Millan, mounted
on snow-white steeds, and fightmg for the cause
of Christendom, at the battle of Simancas in the
Campo de Toro.
And when the kings were in the field, — their squadrons in
array, —
With lance in rest they onward pressed to mingle in the fiiiy ;
But soon upon the Christians fell a terror of their foes, —
These were a numerous army, — a little handful those.
And while the Christian people stood in this uncertainty.
Upward to heaven they turned their eyes, and fixed their
thoughts on high y
And there two figures they beheld, all beautifiil and bright,
Even than the pure new-fallen snow their garments were more
white.
They rode upon two horses more white than crystal sheen.
And arms they bore such as before no mortal man had seen ;
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRY OF SPAIN. 249
The one, he held a crosier, — a pontiff*8 mitre wore ;
The other held a crucifix, — such man ne'er saw before.
Their faces were angelical, celestial forms had they, —
And downward through the fields of air they urged their
rapid way ;
They looked upon the Moorish host with fierce and angry
look.
And in their hands, with dire portent, their naked sabres
shook.
The Christian host, beholding this, straightway take heart
- again;
They fail upon their bended knees, all resting on the plain.
And each one with his clenched fist to smite his breast begins.
And promises to God on high he will forsake his sins.
And when the heavenly knights drew near unto the battle-
ground.
They dashed among the Moors and dealt unerring blows
around ;
Such deadly haroc there they made the foremost ranks along,
A panic terror spread unto the hindmost of the throng.
Together with these two good knights, the champions of the
sky.
The ChristianB rallied and began to smite full sore and high ;
The Moors raised up their roices and by the Koran swore
That in their lives such deadly fray they ne'er had seen
before.
Down went the misbelieTera, — flat sped the bloody fight, —
«
Some ghastly and dismembered lay, and some half dead with
fright:
350 THE DEVOTIONAL POETRY OF SPAIK.
Full sorely .they repented that to the field they came,
For they eaw that fiom the battle they should retreat with
shame.
Another thing befell them, — they dreamed not of such woes, —
The very arrows that the Moors shot from their twanging bows
Turned back against them in their Bight and wounded them
full sore,
And every blow they dealt the foe was paid in drops of gore.
• • • • •
Now he that bore the crosier, and the papal crown had on.
Was the glorified Apostle, the brother of Saint John ;
And he that held the crucifix, and wore the monidsh hood,
Was the holy San Millan of Cogolla's neighbourhood.
Berceo's longest poem is 'entitled "JMtrocZos
de J^uestra Sefiora,^^ Miracles of Our Lady.
It consists of nearly four thousand lines, and con-
tains the description of twenty-five miracles.
It is a complete homily on the homage and de-
votion due to the glorious Virgin, Madre de Jhu
XtOy Mother of Jesus Christ; but it is written
in a low and vulgar style, strikingly at variance
with the elevated character of the subject. Thus,
in the twentieth miracle, we have the account
of a monk who became intoxicated in a wine-
cellar. Having lain on the floor till the vesper-
bell aroused him, he staggered off towards die
church m most melancholy plight. The Evil
THE DETOTIONAL POETET OF SPAIN. 251
One besets faim on the way, assuming the various
shapes of a bull, a dog, and a lion ; but from
all these perils he is miraculously saved by the
timely intervention of the Virgin, who, finding
him still too much intoxicated to make his way
to bed, kindly takes him by the hand, leads him
to his pallet, covers him with a blanket and a
counterpane, smooths his pillow, and, after mak-
ing the sign of the cross over him, tells him to
rest quietly, for sleep will do him good.
To a certain class of minds there may be
something interesting and even affecting b de-
scriptions which represent the spirit of a departed
saint as thus assuming a corporeal shape, in order
to assist and console human nature even in its
baser infirmities ; but it ought also to be con-
sidered how much such descriptions tend to strip
religion of its peculiar sanctity, to bring it down
from its heavenly abode, not merely to dwell
among men, but, like an imprisoned culprit, to
be chained to the derelict of principle, ipanacled
with the base desire and earthly passion, and
forced to do the menial offices of a slave. In
descriptions of this kind, as in the representa-
tions of our Saviour and of sainted spirits in
a human shape, execution must of necessity fall
252 THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN.
far short of the concepdon. , The handiwork
cannot equal the glorious archetype, which is vis^
ible only to the mental eye. Painting and sculp-
ture are not adequate to the task of embodying
in a permanent shape the glorious visions, the
radiant forms, the glimpses of heaven, which
fill the imagination, when purifi^ed and exalted
by devotion. The hand of man unconsciously
inscribes upon all his works the sentence of im-
perfection, which the finger of the invisible hand
wrote upon the wall of the Assyrian monarch.
From this it would seem to be not only a natural
but a necessary* conclusion, that all the descrip-
tions <^ poetry which borrow any thing, either
directly or indirectly, from these bodily and im-
perfect representations, must partake of their
imperfection, and assume a more earthly and
material character than those which come glowing
and bummg from the more spiritualized percep-
tions of the internal sense.
It is very far from my intention to utter any
sweeping denunciation against the divine arts of
pamting and sculpture, as employed in the exhibi-
tion of Scriptural scenes and personages. These
I esteem meet ornaments for the house of God ;
though, as I have already said, their execution
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN. 253
cannot equal the high conceptions of an ardent
imagination, yet, whenever the hand of a master
is visible, — when the marble almost moves be-
fore you, and the painting starts into life from
the canvass, — the effect upon an enh'ghtened
mind will generally, if not universally, be to
quicken its sensibilities and excite to more ardent
devotion, by carrying the thoughts beyond the
representations of bodily suffering, to the con-
templation of the intenser mental agony, — the
moral sublimity exhibited by the martyr. The
impressions produced, however, will not be the
same in aU minds ; they will necessarily vaiy
i^ccording to the prevailing temper and com-
plexion of the mind which receives them. As
there is no sound where there is no ear to re-
ceive the impulses and vibrations of the air, so
is there no moral impression, — no voice of in-
struction from all the works of nature, and all
the imitations of art, — unless there be within the
soul itself a capacity for hearing tlie voice and
receiving the moral impulse. The cause exists
eternally and universally ; but the effect is pro-
duced only when and where the cause has room
to act, and just in proportion as it has room to
act. Hence the various moral impressions, and
354 THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN.
the several degrees of the same moral impression^
which an object may produce in different minds..
These impressions will vary in kmd and in de-
gree accordbg to the acuteness and the cultiva-
tion of the mtemal moral sense. And thus the
representations spoken of above might exercise
a very favorable influence upon an enlightened
and well regulated mind, and at the same time
a very unfavorable influence upon an unenlight-
ened and superstitious one. And the reason is
obvious. An enlightened mind beholds all things
m their just proportions, and receives from them
the true impressions they are calculated to con-
vey. It is not hoodwinked, — it is not shut up
in a gloomy prison, till it thinks the walls of its
own dungeon the limits of the universe, and the
reach of its own chain the outer verge of all in-
telligence ; but it walks abroad ; the sunshine
and the air pour in to enlighten and expand it ;
the various works of nature are its ministering
angels ; the glad recipient of light and wisdom,
it developes new powers and acquires increased
capacities, and thus, rendering itself less subject
to error, assumes a nearer similitude to the Eter-
nal Mind. But not so the dark and supersti-
tious mind. It is filled with its own antique and
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIlf. 255
mouldy furniture^ — the moth-eaten 'tome, the
gloomy tapestry, the dusty curtam. The strag-
gling sunbeam from without streams through the
stained window, and as it enters assumes the col-
ors of the painted glass; while the half-extin-
guished fire within, now smouldering in its ashes,
and now shooting forth a quivering flame, casts
fantastic shadows through the chambers of the
soul. Within, the spirit sits, lost in its own ab-
stractions. The voice of nature from without
is hardly audible ; her beauties are unseen, or
seen only in shadowy forms, through a colored
medium, and with a stramed and distorted vision.
The invigorating* air does not enter that myste-
rious chamber; it visits not that lonely inmate,
who, breathing only a close, exhausted atmos-
phere, exhibits in the languid frame and fever-
ish pulse the marks of lingering, incurable dis-
use. The picture is not too strongly sketched ;
such is the contrast between the free and the su-
perstitious mind. Upon the latter, which has
little power over its ideas, — to generalize them,
to place them in their proper light and position,
to reason upon, to discriminate, to judge them
in detail, and thus to arrive at just conclusions ;
but, on the contrary, receives every crude and
256 THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT' OF SPAIN.
inadequate impression as it first presents itself,
and treasures it up as an ultimate fact, — upon
such a mind, representations of Scripture-scenes,
like those mentioned above, exercise an unfavor-
able influence. Such a mind cannot rightly es-
timate, it cannot feel, the work of a master ; and
a miserable painting, or a still more miserable
caricature carved in wood, will serve only the
more to drag the spirit down to earth. Thus,
in the unenlightened mind, these representations
have a tendency to sensualize and desecrate the
character of holy things. Being brought con-
stantly before the eye, and represented in a real
and palpable form to the external senses, they
lose, by being made tpo familiar, that peculiar
sanctity with which the mind naturally mvests the
unearthly and mvisible.
It is curious to observe the influence of the
circumstances just referred to upon the devo-
donal poetry of Spain.* Sometimes it exhibits
* The following beautiful little hymn in Latin, written by
the celebrated Francisco Xayier, the fKend and companion
of Loyola, and from hie zeal in the EaBtern missions sur-
named the Apostle of the Indies, would hardly have origi-
nated in any mind but that of one fiimiliar with the repre-
sentations of which I have spoken above.
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OP SPAIN. 257
itself directly and fuUy, sometimes indirectly and
incidentally, but always with sufficient clearness
O Deae ! ego amo te :
Nee amo te, ut salves me,
Aut quia non amantes te
^terno punis igne.
Tu, tu, mi Jesu, totum me
Amplexus es in cruce.
Tulisti clavos, lanceam,
Multamque ignominiam :
Innumeros dolores,
Sudores et angores,
Ac mortem : et hsc propter me
Ac pro me peccatore.
Cur igitur non amem te,
O Jesu amantissime ?
Non ut in cobIo salves me,
Aut ne sternum damnes me,
Nee prcemii uilius spo :
Sed sicut tu amasti me,
Sic amo et amabo te :
Solum quia rex mens es,
£t solum quia Deus es.
Amen.
O God ! my spirit loves but thee :
Not that in heaven its home may be.
Nor that the souls which love not thee
Shall groan in fire eternally.
17
258 THE DEVOTIONAL POETRY OF SPAIN.
to bdicate its origin. Sometimes it destroys
the beauty of a poem by a miserable conceit ;
at other times it gives it the character of a beau-
tiful allegory.*
But thou on the accursed tree
In mercj hast embraced me.
For me the cruel nails, the spear,
The ignominious scoff, didst bear,
Countless, unutterable woes, —
The bloody sweat, — death's pangs and throes, —
These thou didst bear, all these for me,
A sinner and estranged from thee.
And wherefore no affection show,
Jesus, to thee that lov'st me so ?
Not that in heaven my home may be.
Not lest I die eternally, —
Nor from the hopes of joys aboye me :
But even as thou thyself didst love me.
So love I, and will ever love thee :
Solely because my King art thou.
My God fi>r evermore as now.
Amen.
* I recollect but few instances of this kind of figurative
poetry in our language. There is, however, one of moat
exquisite beauty and pathos, far surpassing any thing I haye
seen of the kind in Spanish. It is a passage from Cowper.
*^ I was a stricken deer, that left the herd
Long since : with many an arrow deep infixt
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRY OP SPAIN. 269
The following sonnets will serve as iDustra-
tions. They are from the band of the wonderful
Lope de Vega : —
Shepherd ! that with thine amoroug sylvan song
Hast broken the slumber that encompassed me,
That madest thy crook from the accursed trep
On which thy powerful arms were stretched so long, —
Lead me to mercy's ever-flowing fountains,
For thou my shepherd, guard, and guide shalt be,
I will obey thy voice, and wait to see
Thy feet all beautiful upon the mountains.
Hear, Shepherd ! — thou that for thy flock art dying,
O, wash away these scarlet sins, for thou
Rejoicest at the contrite sinner's vow.
O, wait ! — to thee my weary soul is crying, —
Wait for me ! — yet why ask it, when I see.
With feet nailed to the cross, thou art waiting still for me ?
Lord, what am I, that with unceasing care
Thou didst seek afler me, — that thou didst wait,
Wet with unhealthy dews, before my gate.
And pass the gloomy nights of winter there ?
O strange delusion ! — that I did not greet
My panting side was charged, when I withdrew
To seek a tranquil death in distant shades.
There was I fbund by one who had himself
Been hurt by archers ; in his side he bore,
And in his hands and feet, the cruel scars.
With gentle force soliciting the darts,
He drew them forth, and healed, and bade me live.
260 TH£ DEYOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN.
Th J blcffed approaeh ! and O, to HeaTen how lost,
Ifm7ii>g»titad«'.aDkuidl7ih)rt
Hat chilled the bleeding woonda apon thy feet !
How oft mj guardian angel gentl j cried,
" Soul, fiom thy eaaement look without and fee
How he peniati to knock and wait fi>r thee ! "
And O, how often to that Toice of aonow,
M To-morrow we will open ! " I replied ;
And when the morrow came, I anawered atill, ^ To-moffrow ! *'
The most remarkable porUon of the devotional
poetry of the Spaniards is to be found in their
sacred dramas, their Vidas de Santos and •Sutos
SticramerUales, These had their origin in the
Mysteries and Moralities of the dark ages, and
are indeed monstrous creations of the imagination.
The Vidas de Santos, or Lives of Saints, are
representations of their miracles, and of the won-
derful traditions concerning them. The Jlutos
Sacramentales have particular reference to the
Eucharist and the ceremonies of the Corpus
Christi, In diese theatrical pieces are intro-
duced upon the stage, not only angels and saints,
but God, the Saviour, thie Virgin Mary ; and,
in strange juxtaposition with these, devils, peas-
ants, and kings ; in fine, they contain the strang-
est medley of characters, real and allegorical,
which the imagination can conceive. As if this
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN. 261
were not enough, in the midst of what was in-*
tended as a solemn, religious celebration, scenes
of low buffoonery are often introduced.
The most remarkable of the •SttUos which I
have read is ^^ La Devocion de la Cruzj^^ The
Devotion of the Cross. It is one of the most
celebrated of CaMerc»i's sacred dramas, and will
serve as a specimen of that class of writing. The
piece commences with a dialogue between Lisar-
do, the son of Curcio, a decayed nobleman, and
Eusebio, the hero of the play and lover of Julia,
Lisardo's sister. Though the father's extrav-
agance has wasted his estates, Lisardo is deeply
offended that Eusebio should aspire to an alliance
with the family, and draws him into a secluded
place in order to settle their dispute with the sword.
Here the scene opens, and in the course of the
dialogue which precedes the combat, Eusebio re-
lates that he was bom at the foot of a cross,
which stood in a rugged and desert part of those
mountains ; that the virtue of this cross preserved
him from the wild beasts ; that, being found by
a peasant three days after his birth, he was car-
ried to a neighbomring village, and there received
the name of Eusebio of the Cross ; that, being
thrown by his nurse into a well, he was heard
262 THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN.
to laugb, and was found floating upon the top of
the water, with his hands placed upon lus mouth
in the form of a cross ; that the house in which
he dwelt being consumed by fire, he escaped un-
harmed amid the flames, and it was found to be
Corpus Christi day; and, in fine, after relating
many other similar miracles, worked by the pow-
er of the cross, at whose foot be was bom, he
says that he bears its image miraculously stamped
upon his breast. After this they fight, and Li-
sardo falls mortally wounded. In the next -scene,
Eusebio has an interview with Julia, at her fath-
er's house; they are interrupted, and Eusebio
conceals himself; Curcio enters, and informs
Julia that he has determined to send her that
day to a convent, that she may take the veil,
^^para ser de CrUto esposa.^^ While they are
conversing, the dead body of Lisardo is brought
in by peasants, and Eusebio is declared to be
the murderer. The scene closes by the escape
of Eusebio. The second act, or jomada^ dis-
covers Eusebio as the leader of a band of rob-
bers. They fire upon a traveller, who proves
to be a priest, named Alberto, and who is seek-
ing a spot in those solitudes wherein to establish
a hermitage. The shot is prevented firom taking
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN. 263
^ect hj a book which the pious old man car-
ries in his bosom, and which he says is a '^ trea-
tise on the true origin of the divine and heavenly
tree, on which, dying with courage and fortitude,
Christ triumphed over death ; in fine, the book
is called the ^Miracles of the Cross.'" They
suffer the priest to depart unharmed, who in con-
sequence promises Eusebio that he shall not die
without confession, but that wherever he may
be, if he but call upon his name, he will hasten
to absolve him. In the mean time, Julia retires
to a convent, and Curcio goes with an armed
force in pursuit of Eusebio, who has resolved
to gain admittance to Julia's convent. He scales
the walls of the convent by night, and silently
gropes his way along the corridor. Julia is dis-
covered sleeping in her cell, with a taper beside
her. He is, however, deterred from executing
his malicious designs, by discovering upon her
breast the form of a cross, similar to that which
he bears upon his own, and '^ Heaven would not
suffer him, though so great an offender, to lose
his respect for the cross." To be brief, he
leaps from the convent-waUs and escapes to the
mountains. Julia, counting her honor lost, hav-
ing offended God, ^^ como & Dios^ y como & es-
364 THE DETOTFONAL POETKT OF SPAIR.
jwra," pursues him, -— descends the hdder from
the convent-wall, and, when she seeks to return
to her cell, finds the ladder has been removed.
In her despair, she accuses Heaven of having
withdrawn its clemency, and vows to perform
such deeds of wickedness as shall terrify both
heaven and helL
The third jomada transports the scene back
to die moimtains. Jdia, disguised in man's ap-
parel, with her &ee concealed, is brought to
Eusebio by a party of the banditti. She chal-
lenges him to single cojnbat ; and he accepts the
chall^ige, on condition that his antagonist shall
declare who he is. Julia discovers herself ^ and
relates several horrid murders she has committed
since leaving the convent. Their interview is
here mterrupted by the entrance of banditti, who
inform Eusebio that Curcio, widi an armed force,
ftom all the neighbouring villages, is approach-
ing. The attack conmiences. Eusebio and Cur-
cio meet, but a secret and mysterious S3rmpathy
prevents them {rem fighting ; and a great num-
ber of peasants, coming in at this moment, rush
upon Eusebio in a body, and he is thrown down
a precipice. There Curcio discovers him, ex-
piring with his numerous wounds. The dinouc"
THE DETOTIONAX POETRY OF SPAflT. 385
mtnt of the piece commences. Curcio, moved
by compassion, examines a wound in Eusebio's
breast, discovers the mark of the cross, and
thereby recognizes him to be his son. Eusebio
expires, calling on the name of Alberto, who
shortly after enters, as if lost in those mountains.
A voice from the dead body of Eusebio calls
his name. I shall here transcribe a part of the
scene.
Eusebio. Alberto !
Alberto, Hark ! — what breath
Of fearful voice is this,
Which uttering my name
Sounds in my ears ?
Eusebio. Alberto !
Jilberto. Again it doth pronounce
My name : methinks the yoice
Came from this side : I will
Approach.
Eusebio. Alberto !
Hi§t ! more near it sounds.
Thou Yoiee^ that ridest swift
The wind, and utterest my name,
Who art thou ?
I am Husebio.
Gome, good Alberto, this way come.
Where sepulchred I lie ;
Approach^ and raise these branches :
Fear not.
Jilberto. I do not fear.
IDiseooers the body.
266 THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN.
Now I behold thee.
Speak, in God^ii holy name,
What wouldst thou with me ?
Eusdno, Id his name,
My fiiith, Alberto, called thee,
That preYJous to my death
Thou hearest my confeasion.
Long since I should have died,
For this stiff corpse resigned
The disembodied soul ;
But the strong mace of death
Smote only, and dissevered not
The spirit and the flesh. IRises,
Come, then, Alberto, that I may
Confess my sins ; for, O, they are
More than the sands beside the sea.
Or motes that fill the sunbeam !
So much with Heaven avails
Devotion to the cross !
Eusebio then retires to confess himself to Alber-
to ; and Curcio afterward relates, that, when the
venerable saint had given him absolution, his
body again fell dead at his feet. Julia discovers
herself, overwhelmed with the thoughts of her
incestuous passion for Eusebio and her other
crimes, and as Curcio, in a transport of indig-
nation, endeavours to kill her, she seizes a cross
which stands over Eusebio's grave, and with it
ascends to heaven, while Alberto shouts, ^^ Gran
milagro! " and the curtain falls.
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRY OF SPAIN. 267
Thus far I hare spoken of the devotional po-
etry of Spam as modified by the peculiarities
of religious faith and practice. Considered apart
from the dogmas of a creed, and as the expres-
sion of those pure and elevated feelings of re-
ligion which are not the prerogative of any one
sect or denommation, but the common privilege
of all, it possesses strong claims to. our admira-
tion and praise. I know of nothing in any mod-
em tongue so beautiful as some of its finest pas-
sages. The thought sprmgs heavenward from
the soul, — die language comes burning from the
lip. The imagination of the poet seems spirit-
ualized ; with nothing of earth, and all of heav-
en, — a heaven, like that of his own native clime,
without a cloud, or a vapor of earth, to obscure
its brightness. His voice, speaking the harmo-
nious accents of that noble tongue, seems to
flow from the lips of an angel, — melodious to the
ear and to the internal sense, — breathing those
" Effectual whispers, whose still voice
The soul itself more feels than hears.**
The following sonnets of Francisco de Alda-
na, a writer remarkable for the beauty of his
conceptions and the harmony of his verse, are
illustrations of this remark. In what glowing
268 THB DETOTIOHAL POBTRT OP SPAIK.
language he describes the aspirations of the soul
for its paternal heaven, its celestial home! bow
beautifully he portnqrs in a few lines the strong
desire, the ardent lon^ng, of the exOed and im-
prisoned spirit to wing its flight away and be
at rest ! The stram bears our thoughts upward
with it ; it transports us to the heavenfy^ country ;
it whispers to the soul, — Higher, immortal spirit !
Ug^r !
Clear fbont of lif bt ! m j natiTe land on high.
Bright with a glory that shall never fiule !
Mansion of troth ! without a yell or shade,
Thj holy quiet meets the spirit's eye.
There dwells the son! in its ethereal essence.
Gating no longer for life's feeble breath ;
But, sentinelled in heaven, its glorious presence
With pitying eye beholds, yet fears not death.
BeloTed country ! baoished from thy shore,
A stranger in this prison-house of clay,
The exiled spirit weeps and sighs for thee !
Heavenward the bright perfections I adore
Direct, and the sure promise cheers the way.
That whither love aspires, there shall my dwelling be.
O Lord ! that seest fiom yon starry height
Centred in one the future and the past.
Fashioned in thine own image, see how fast
The world obscures in me what once was bright !
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIN. 369
Eternal Sun ! the wannth which thou hast given
To cheer life's flowery April fast decays ;
Yet in the hoary winter of my days.
For ever green shall be my trust in Heaven.
Celestial King ! O, let thy presence pass
Before my spirit, and an image fair
Shall meet that look of mercy from on high,
As the reflected image in a glass
Doth meet the look of him who seeks it there.
And owes its being to the gazer's eye.
The prevailing characteristics of Spanish de-
votional poetry are warmth of imagination, and
depth and sincerity of feeling. The conception
is always striking and original, and, when not de*
graded by dogmas, and the poor, puerile con*
ceits arising from them, beautiful and sublime.
This results from the frame and temperament
of the mind, and is a general characteristic of
the Spanish poets, not only in this department
of song, but in all others. The very ardor of
imagination which, exercised upon minor themes,
leads them into extravagance and hyperbole,
when left to act in a higher and wider sphere
conducts them nearer and nearer to perfection.
When ima^ation spreads its wings in the bright
regions of devotional song, — in the pure empy-
rean, — judgment should direct its course, but
270 THE DETOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIlf.
there is no danger of its soaring too high. The
heavenly land still lies heyond its utmost flight.
There are heights it cannot reach ; there are
fields of air which tire its wing ; there is a splen-
dor which dazzles its vision ; — for there is a
glory " which eye hath not seen, nor ear heard,
nor hath it entered into the heart of man to con-
ceive."
But perhaps the greatest charm of the devo-
tional poets of Spain is their sincerity. Most
of them were ecclesiastics, — men who had in
sober truth renounced the realities of this life
for the hopes and promises of another. We are
not to suppose that all who take holy orders are
saints ; but we should be still farther from be-
lieving that all are hypocrites. It would be even
more absurd to suppose that none are sincere
in their professions than that all are. Besides,
with whatever feelings a man may enter the mo-
nastic life, there is somethmg in its discipline and
privations which has a tendency to wean the mmd
from earth, and to fix it upon heaven. Doubt-
less many have seemmgly renounced the world
from motives of worldly aggrandizement ; and
others have renounced it because it has renounc-
ed them. The former have carried with them
THE DEVOTIONAL POETRY OF SPAIN. 271
to the cloister their earthly ambitioir, and the
latter their dark misanthropy ; and though many
have daily kissed the cross and yet grown hoary
in iniquity, and shrived their souls that they
might sm more gayly on, — yet solitude works
miracles in the heart, and many who enter the
cloister from worldly motives find it a school
wherein the soul may be trained to more holy
purposes and desires. There is not half the
corruption and hypocrisy within the convent's
walls that the church bears the shame of hiding
there. Hermits may be holy men, though knaves
have sometimes been hermits. Were they all
hypocrites, who of old for their souls' sake ex-
posed their naked bodies to the bummg sun of
Syria ? Were they, who wandered houseless
in the solitudes of Engaddi ? Were they, who
dwelt beneath the palm-trees by the Red Sea ?
O, no ! They were ignorant, they were de-
luded, they were fanatic, but. they were not
hypocrites ; if there be any smcerity in human
professions and human actions, they were not
hypocrites. During the Middle Ages, there was
corruption in the church, — foul, shameful cor-
ruption ; and now also hypocrisy may scourge
itself in feigned repentance, and ambition hide
272 THE DEVOTIONAL POETRT OF SPAIIT.
Hs face beneath a hood ; yet all is not therefore
rottenness that wears a cowL Many a pore
spirit, through heavenly-mindedness and an ar«
dent though mistaken zeal, has fled from the
temptations of the world to seek in solitude and
self-communion a closer walk with God. And
not in vain. They have found the peace they
sought. They have felt, indeed, what many pro*
fess' to feel, but do not feel, — that they are
strangers and sojourners here, travellers who are
bound for their home in a fiir country. It is
this feeling which I speak of as giving a pecu*
liar charm to the devotional poetry of Spain.
Compare its spirit with the spirit which its au-
thors have exhilNted m their lives. They speak
of having given up die wwld, and it is no po-
etical hyperbole ; they speak of lon^g to be
free from the weakness of the flesh, that they
may commence their conversation in heaven,—
and we feel that they had already begun it in
lives of penitence, meditation, and prayer.
THE
PILGRIM'S BREVIARY.
If thou vouchsaie to read this treatise, it shall seem no
otherwise to thee than the way to an ordinary traveller,—-
sometimes &ir, sometimes foul ; here champaign, there en*
closed; barren in one place, better soyle in another; by
woods, groves, hills, dales, plains, I shall lead thee.
BuRToir's Anatohie o^ Melaitcholt.
The glittering spires and cupolas of Madrid
have sunk behind me. Again and again I have
turned to take a parting look, till at length the
last trace of the city has disappeared, and I gaste
only upon the sky above it.
And now the sultry day is passed ; the fresh-*
ening twilight falls, and the moon and the even^
ing star are in the sky» This river is the Xara*-
ma. This noble avenue of trees leads to Aran-
juez. Already its lamps begin to twinkle in the
distance. The hoofs of our weary mules clatter
upon the wooden bridge ; the public square opens
before us ; yonder, in the moonlight,^ gleam the
18
274 THE pilgrim's bretiart.
walls of the royal palace, and near it, with a
rushing sound, fall the waters of the Tagus.
We have now entered the vast and melan-
choly plains of La Mancha, — a land to which
the genius of Cervantes has given a vulgo-classic
fame. Here are the windmills, as of old ; every
village has its Master Nicholas, — every venta
its Maritomes. Wondrous strong are the spells
of fiction ! A few years pass away, and his-
tory becomes romance, and romance, history.
To the peasantry of ^pain, Don Quixote and
his squire are historic personages ; and woe be-
tide the luckless wight who unwarily takes the
name of Dulcbea upon his lips within a league
of El Toboso ! The traveller, too, yields him-
self to the delusion ; and as he traverses the
arid plains of La Mancha, pauses with willing
credulity to trace the footsteps of the mad Hi-
dalgo, with his "velvet breeches on a. holy day,
and slippers of the same." The high-road from
Aranjuez to C6rdova crosses and recrosses the
knight-errant's path. Between Manzanares and
Valdepenas stands the inn where he was dubbed
a knight ; to the northward, the spot where he
THE pilgrim's BREVIAR7. 275
encountered the # windmills ; to the westward, the
Inn where he made the balsam of Fierabras, the
scenes of his adventures with the fullmg-mills,
and his tournament with the bisurber: and to the
southward, the Sierra Morena, where he did pen-
ance, like the knights of olden time.
For my dwn part, I confess that there are
seasons when I am willing to be the dupe of my
imagination ; and if this harmless foQy but lends
its wings to a dull-paced hour, I am even ready
to believe a fairy tale.
On the fourth day of our journey we dmed
at Manzanares, in an old and sombre-looking
inn, which, I think, some centuries back, must
have been the dwelling of a grandee. A ^vide
gateway admitted us into the inn-yard, which
was a paved court, in the centre of the edifice,
surrounded by a colonnade, and open to the sky
above. Beneath this colonnade we were shaved
by the viUage barber, a supple, smooth-faced
Figaro, with a brazen laver and a gray montera
cap. There, too, we dined in the open air,
with bread as white as snow, and the rich red
wine of Valdepenas ; and there, in the listless-
276 THE PILOKIM't BKI
ness c^ afler-dinner, smoked
cigar, while in the court-yard
leteers danced a fandango n
the inn, to Biicli music ai thr
could draw from a' vitdin, a
inet. When this scene Wi
blind men had groped their wi
I fell into a delicious slurob
was soon awakened hy music
It was a clear, youthful voice,
song to the sound of a guiti
eyes, and near me stood a ta
leaning against one of the pillars oi me colon-
nade, in the atdtude of a serenader. His dress
was that of a Spanish student. He wore a black
gown and cassock, a pair of shoes made of an
ex-pair of boots, and a hat in the shape of A
half-moon, with the handle of a wooden spoon
sticking out on one side like a cockade. When
he bad Gnlshed his song, we invited him to the
remnant of a Vieh sausage, a botde of Valde-
penas, bread at his own discretion, and a pure
Havana cigar. The stranger made a leg, an<f
accepted these signs of good company with the
easy au* of a man who is accustomed to flam
bis livelihood by hook or by crook ; and ni
LGKIH'b BRETIIRT. 377
that stark and genQrous kmd
\QeadB one into the brain," our
I half'CQooD bat grew garrulous
>te, and soon UM us his own
ith fai9 birth «nd parentage, hke
Bias.
Qf a ba^r," quoth be ; " and
acme twQQt^ years ago, m the
irid. At a very early age, I
sontethii^ for myself, and be-
gtUD by carrying a slow-match
r the gentlemen to light iheir
viguB wiui, Biiu catching the wax that dropped
ftom tbe friars' tapers at funerals and other re-
li^ous procesuons.
" At school I was noisy and unruly ; and was
ftnally espelled fot booking tbe master's sod with
a pair of ox-homs, which I had tied to my head,
b order to personate the bull in a mock bull-
fi^t. Soon after this my father died, and I
went to lire with my maternal uncle, a curate
in Fuencarral. He was a man of learning, and
resolved that I should be Uke him. He set his
heart upon making a physician of me ; and to
this end taught me Latin and Greek.
" In due time I was sent to the University
278 THE pilgrim's breviart.
of Alcal&. Here a new world opened before
me. What novelty, — what variety, — what ex-
citement ! But, alas ! three months were hardly
gone, when news came that my worthy uncle
had passed to a better world. I was now left
to shift for myself. I was penniless, and lived
as I could, not as I would. I became a sopista^
a soup-eater, — a knight of the wooden spoon.
I see you do not understand me. In other words,
then, I became one of that respectable body
of charity scholars who go armed with their
wooden spoons to eat the allowance of eleemosy-
nary soup which is daily served out to them
at the gate of the convents. I had no longer
house nor home. But necessity is the mother
of invention. I became a hanger-on of those
who were more fortunate than myself; studied
in other people's books, slept in other peo-
ple's beds, and breakfasted at other people's
expense. This course of life has been demor-
alizmg, but it has quickened my wits to a won-
derful degree.
" Did you ever read the life of the Gran Ta-
caiio, by Quevedo ? In the first book you have
a faithful picture of life in a Spanish university.
What was true in his day is true in ours. O
THE pilgrim's bretiart. 279
Alcald, ! Alcalai ! if your walls had tongues as
well as ears, what tales could they repeat ! what
midnight frolics ! what mddcap revelries ! what
scenes of merriment and mischief ! How merry
is a student's life, and yet how changeable !
Alternate feastmg and fasting, — alternate Lent
and Carnival, — alternate want and extravagance !
Care given to the wmds, — no thoi^ht beyond
the passing hour ; yesterday, forgotten, — to-mor-
row, a word in an unknown tongue !
^^Did you ever hear of raising the dead? not
literally, — but such as the student raised, when
he dug for the soul of the licentiate Pedro Gar-
cias, at the fountain between Pefiafiel and Sal-
amanca, — money ? No ? Well, it is done after
this wise. GambUng, you know, is our great
national vice ; and then gamblers are so dishon-
est ! Now, our game is to cheat the cheater.
We go at night to some noted gammg-house, —
five or six of us in a body. We stand around
the table, watch those that are at play, and oc-
casionally put In a trifle ourselves to avoid sus-
picion. At length the favorable moment ar-
rives. Some eager player ventures a large stake.
I stand behind his chair. He wins. As quick
as thought, I stretch my arm over his shoulder
and seize the gUttering prixe, saying very coolly,
^ I have w(Hi at last.' My gendeman tums round
m a passion, and I meet his indignant ^ance
with a look of surprise. He storms, and I ez«
postulate; he menaces, ---I heed his menaces
no more than the buzztog of a fly that has humt
his wings in mj lamp. He calls the whole table
to witness ; but the whole table is Imkj, each
with his own g«n or loss, and there stand my
comrades, all loudly asserting that the stake was
mine. What can he do ? there was a mistake ;
he swallows the affiroot as best he may, and we
bear away the booty. T^ we caQ rabmg the
dead. You say it is disgraceful, — dishonest.
Our maxim is, that all is fair among sharp-
ers : Baylar al son que se toeay — Dance to any
tune that is fiddled. Besides, as I said before,
poverty is demoralizing. One loses the nice
distinctions of right and wrong, of taeutn and
^^ Thus menily pass the hours of term-time.
When the summer vacations come round, I sling
my guitar over my shoulder, and with a light
heart, and a lighter pocket, scour the country,
like a strolling piper or a mendicant friar. Like
the industrious ant, in summer I provide for win-
THE riLORIM's B&BTURT. 381
ter ; for in racatioii we have time for reflection,
and make the great discovery, that there is a
portion of time called the future. I pick up a
trifle here and a trifle there> in all the towns
and villages through which I pass, and before
the end of my tour I find myself quite rich-<-
ibr the son of a barber. This we call the vida
tttnofife^ca, "-*- a rag*tag-and-bobtail sort of life.
And yet the vocation is as honest as that of a
b^ging Franciscan, Why not ?
^' And now, g^itlemen, having dined at your
expense, with your leave I will put this loaf
of bread and the remains of this excellent Vich
sausage into my pocket, and, thanking you for
your kind hospitality, bid you a good afternoon.
God be with you, gentlemen I "
In genera], the aspect of La Mancha is des-
olate and sad. Around you lies a parched and
sunburnt plain, which, l^e the ocean, has no
limits but the sky ; and straight before you, for
many a weary league, runs the dusty and level
road, without the shade of a single tree. The
villages you pass through are poverty-stricken
and half-depopulated ; and the squalid inhab-
282 THE pilgrim's bretiart.
itants wear a look of misery that makes the
heart ache. Every league or two, the ruins of a
post-house, or a roofless cottage with shattered
windows and blackened walls, tells a sad tale
of the last war. It was there that a Utde band
of peasantry made a desperate stand against the
French, and perished by the bullet, the sword,
or the bayonet. The lapse of many years has
not changed the scene, nor repaired the bat-
tered wall ; and at almost every step the trav-
eller may pause and exclaim : —
^ Here was the camp, the watch-flame, and the host ;
Here the bold peasant stormed the dragon* s nest."
From Valdepenas southward the country wears
a more lively and picturesque aspect. The land-
scape breaks into hill and valley, covered with
vineyards and olive-6eIds ; and before you rise
the dark ridges of the Sierra Morena, lifting
their sullen fronts into a heaven all gladness and
sunshine. Ere long you enter the wild moun-
tain-pass of Despena-Perros. A sudden turn
in the road brings you to a stone column, sur-
mounted by an iron cross, marking the boundary
line between La Mancha and Andalusia. Upon
one side of this column is carved a sorry-look-
THE pilgrim's bkeyiart. 283
ing fac6, not unlike the death's-heads on the
tombstones of a country church-yard. Over it
is written this inscription : — "El Verdadero
ReTRATO DE la SANTA CARA DEL DiOS DE
Xaen," — The true portrait of the holy coun-
tenance of the God of Xaen ! I was so much
struck with this strange superscription that I stop-
ped to copy it.
" Do you really believe that this is what it
pretends to be } " said I to a muleteer, who was
watching my movements.
" I don't know," replied he, shrugging his
brawny shoulders ; " they say it is."
" Who says it is } "
«' The priest, — the Padre Cura."
" I supposed so. And how was this portrait
taken } "
He could not tell. The Padre Cura knew
all about it.
When I joined my companions, who were a
little in advance of me with the carriage, I got
the mystery explained. The Catholic church
boasts of three portraits of our Saviour, mi-
raculously preserved upon the folds of a hand-
kerchief, with which St. Veronica wiped the
sweat from his brow, on the day of the cruci-
284 THE pilgrim's brbtiart.
fixioQ. Qna of these is at Toledo, another b
the kingdom of Xaen, and the third at Rome.
Thb ifflpressloQ which tUs monum^it of 8u<^
perstition made upon my mind was soon effaced
by the magnificent scene which now burst upon
me. The road winds up the mountain-side with
gradual asc^it ; wild, shapeless, gigantic crags
overhang it upon the right, and upon the left
the wary foot starts back from the brink of a
fearful chasm hundreds of feet in depth. Its
sides are black with ragged pines, and rocks
that have toppled down from above ; and at the
bottom, scarcely visible, wind the sflvery waters
of a little stream, a tributary of the Guadal-
quivir. The road skirts the ravme for miles, -^
now climbing the banren rock, and now sliding
gently downward into shadowy hollows, and
crossing some rustic bridge thrown over a wild
mountam-brook.
At length the scene changed. We stood upon
the southern slope of the Sierra, and looked
down upon the broad, luxuriant valleys of An-
dalusia, bathed b the gorgeous splendor of a
southern sunset. The landscape had already as-
THE PlLGftlM^S BREVIAlir. 28&
sumed thd ^^ burnished lively" of autumn; but
the air I breathed was the soft and balmy breath
of springs -— the eternal spring of Andalusia.
If ever you should be fortunate enough to visit
this part of Spam, stop for the night at the vil**
lage of La Carolina. It is indeed a model for
^11 villages, -^ With its broad streets, its neat;
white houses, its spacious market-place sur-
rounded with a colonnade, and its public walk
ornamented with fountams and set out with lux-
uriant trees. I doubt whether all Spain can
show a village more beautiful than this.
The approach to C6rdova from the east is
enchanting. The sun was just rising as we
crossed the Guadalquivir and drew near to the
city; and, alighting from the carriage, I pur-
sued my way on foot, the better to enjoy the
scene and the pure morning air. The dew still
glistened on every leaf and spray ; for die burn-
ing sun had not yet climbed the tall hedge-row
of wild fig-tree and aloes which skirts the road"
side. The highway wound along through gar-
dens, orchards, and vineyards, and here and
there above me towered the glorious palm in
286 THE pilgrim's breyiart.
all its leafy magnificence. On my right, a swell-
ing mountain-ridge, covered with verdure and
sprinkled with little white hermitages, looked
forth towards the rismg sun ; and oa the left,
in a long, graceful curve, swept the bright wa-
ters of the Guadalquivir, pursuing their silent
journey through a verdant reach of soft lowland
landscape. There, amid all the luxuriance of
this sunny clime, arises the ancient city of C&r-
dova, though stripped, alas ! of its former mag-
nificence. All that reminds you of the past
is the crumbling wall of the city, and a Saracen
mosque, now changed to a Christian cathedral.
The stranger, who is familiar with the history
of the Moorish dominion m Spain, pauses with
a sigh, and asks himself. Is this the imperial city
of Alhakam the Just, and Abdoulrahman the
Magnificent ?
This, then, is Seville, that "pleasant city,
famous for oranges and women." After all I
have beard of its beauty, I am disappointed in
finding it less beautiful than my imagination had
pamted it. The wise saw, —
THE pilgrim's brevurt. 287
** QrUien no ha yisto Sevilla,
No ha visto maravilla, " —
He who has not seen Seville has seen no mar-
vel, — is an Andalusian gasconade. This, how-
ever, is the judgment of a traveller weary and
wayworn with a journey of twelve successive
days m a carriage drawn by mules ; and I am
well aware how much our opinions of men and
things are colored by these trivial ills. A sad
spirit is like a rainy day ; its mists and shadows
darken the brightest sky, and clothe the fairest
landscape in gloom.
I am, likewise, a disappomted man in another
respect. I have come all the way from Madrid
to Seville without being robbed ! And this,
too, when I journeyed at a snail's pace, and had
bought a watch large enough for the clock of a
village church, for the express purpose of hav-
ing it violently torn from me by a fierce-whis-
kered highwayman, with his blunderbuss and his,
" Boca abajo^ ladronea!^^ If I print tliis in a
book, I am undone. What ! travel in Spain
and not be robbed ! To be sure, I came very
near it more than once. Almost every village
we passed through had its tale to tell of atro-
cities committed in the neighbourhood. In one
388 THE pilgrim's brbtiart.
place, the stage-coach had been stopped and
plundered ; in another, a man had been mur-
dered and thrown into the river ; here and there
a rude wooden cross and a shapeless pile of
stones marked the spot where some unwaiy trav-
eller had met his fate ; and at night, seated around
the blazing hearth of the inn-kitchen, my fellow-
travellers would converse in a mysterious under-
tone of the dangers we were to pass through
on the morrow. But the morrow came and
went, and, alas ! neither saUeadorj nor raUro
moved a finger. At one place, we were a day
too late ; at.another, a day too early.
I am now at the Fonda de los Americanos.
My chamber-door opens upon a gallery, beneath
which is a little court paved with marble, having
a fountain in the centre. As I write, I can just
disdi^msh the tinklmg of its tiny jet, falling into
the circular basin with a murmur so gende that
it scarcely breaks the silence of the night. At
day-dawn I start for Cadiz, promising myself a
pleasant sail down the Guadalquivir. All I shall
be able to say of Seville is what I have written
above, — that it is "a pleasant city, famous for
oranges and women."
THE pilgrim's breviart. 389
I AM at length in Cadiz. I came across the
bay yesterday morning in an of&a boat from
Santa Maria, and have established myself in
very pleasant rooms, which look out upon tb^
JPlaza d^ San Jlntonio, the public square of the
city. The morning sun awakes me, and at even*
ing the sea-breeze comes in at my wmdow. At
night the square is lighted by lamps suspended
from the trees, and thronged with a brilliant crowd
of the young and gay.
Cadiz is beautiful almost beyond imagination..
The cities of our dreams are not mor^ enchant*'
ing. It lies like a delicate sea-shell upon the
brmk of the ocean, so wondrous fair that it seems
not formed for man. In sooth, the Paphian
queen, bom of the feathery sea-foam, dwells
here. It is the city of beauty and of love.
The women of Cadiz are world-renowned for
dieir loveliness. Surely eartii has none more
dazzling than a daughter of that bright, burning
clime. What a fauldess figure ! what a dainty
feot ! what dignity ! what matchless grace !
** What eyes, — what lips, — what every thing about her !
How like a swan she swims her pace, and bears
Her silver breasts ! " %
The Gaditana is not ignorant of her charms.
19
I
290 TH£ pilgrim's breviary.
She knows full well the necromancy of a smile.
You see it in the flourish of her fan, — a magic
wand, whose spell is powerful ; you see it in
her steady gaze, the elastic step,
"The veil,
Thrown back a moment with the glancing hand,
While the o'erpowering eye, that turns you pale,
Flaahes into the heart."
When I am grown old and gray, and sit by
the fireside wrapped in flannels, if, in a listless
moment, recalling what is now the present, but
will then be the distant and almost forgotten
past, I turn over the leaves of this journal till
my watery eye falls upon the page I have just
written, I shall smile at the enthusiasm with
which I have sketched this portrait. And where
will then be the bright forms that now glance
before me, like tlie heavenly 'creations of a
dream ? All gone, — all gone ! Or, if per-
chance a few still linger upon earth, the silver
cord will be loosed, — they will be bowed with
age and sorrow, saying their paternosters with
a tremulous voice.
Old age is a Pharisee ; for he makes broad
his phylacteries, and wears them upon his brow,
THE pilgrim's breviart. 291
inscribed with prayer, but in the ^' crooked auto-
graph " of a palsied hand. ^^ I see with pain,"
says Madame de Pompadour, ^' that there is
nothing durable upon earth. We bring into the
world a fair face, and lo ! in less than thirty
years it is covered with wrinkles ; after which
a woman is no longer good for any thing."
Were I to translate these sombre reflections
into choice Castilian, and read them to the bright-
eyed houri who is now leaning over the balcony
opposite, she would laugh, and laughing say,
^^Cuando el demonio ea viejo^ se mete frayle.^^
The devotion paid at the shrme of the Vir-
gin is one of the most promment and charac-
teristic features of the Catholic religion. In
Spain it is one of its most attractive features.
In the southern provinces, in Granada and in
Andalusia, which the inhabitants call '^ La tierra
de Maria Santirima^^^ — the land of the most
holy Mary, — this adoration is ardent and enthu-
siastic. There is one of its outward observan-
ces which struck me as peculiarly beautiful and
impressive. I refer to the Ave Maria, an even-
ing service of the Virgin. Just as the evening
392 THE pilgrim's bretiart.
twilight commences, the bell tolls to prayer.
In a moment, throughout the crowded city, the
hum of business is hushed, the thronged streets
are still ; the gay multitudes that crowd the pub-*
lie walks stand motionless ; the angry dispute
ceases ; the laugh of merriment dies away ; life
seems for a moment to be arrested m its career,
and to stand still. The multitude uncover their
heads, and, with the sign of the cross, whisper
their evening prayer to the Virgin. Then the
bells ring a merrier peal ; the crowds move again
in the streets, and the rush and turmoil of busi-
ness recommence. I have always listened with
feelings of solemn pleasure to the bell that sound-
ed forth the Ave Maria. As it announced the
close of day, it seemed also to call the soul
from its worldly occupations to repose and devo-
tion. There is something beautiful in thus meas-
uring the march of time. The hour, too, nat-
urally brings the heart into unison with the feel-
ings and sentiments of devotion. The close of
the day, the shadows of evening, the calm of
twilight, inspire a feeling of tranquillity; and
though I may differ from the Catholic in regard
to the object of his supplication, yet it seems
to me a beautiful and appropriate solenmity, that,
TBE pilgrim's BREVIARY. 293
at the close of each daily epoch of life^ — which,
if it hare not been fruitful in incidents to our-
selves, has, nevertheless, been so to many of
the great human family, — the voice of a whole
people, an4 of the whole world, should go up
to heaven in praise, and supplication, and thank-*
fulness.
** The Moorish king rides up and down
Through Granada's royal town ;
From £lvira*B gates to those
Of Bivarambla on he goes.
Woe is me, Alhama ! "
Thus commences one of the fine old Span-
ish ballads, commemorating the downfall of the
city of Alhama, where we have stopped to rest
our horses on their fatiguing march from Velez-^
Malaga to Granada. Alhama was one of the
last strongholds of the Moslem power in Spain.
Its fall opened the way for the Christian army
across the Sierra Nevada, and spread conster-
nation and despair through the city of Granada.
The description in the old ballad is highly graph-
ic and beautiful ; and its beauty is well preserved
in the spirited English translation by Lord B]n*on.
294 THE pilgrim's breviary.
As we crossed the Sierra Nevada, the snowy
mountains that look down upon the luxuriant
Vega of Granada, we overtook a solitary rider,
who was singing a wild national song, to cheer
the loneliness of his journey. He was an ath-
letic man, and rode a spirited horse of the Arab
breed. A black bearskin jacket covered his
broad shoulders, and around his waist was wound
the crimson faja^ so universally worn by the
Spanish peasantry. His velvet breeches reached
below his knee, just meeting a pair of leather
gaiters of elegant workmanship. A gay silken
handkerchief was tied round his head, and over
this he wore the little round Andalusian hat,
decked out with a profusion of tassels of silk
^nd bugles of silver. The steed he mounted
was dressed*^ no less gayly than his rider. There
was a silver star upon his forehead, and a bright-
colored woollen tassel between his ears ; a blanket
striped with blue and red covered the saddle,
and even the Moorish stirrups were ornamented
with brass studs.
This personage was a contrahandistay — a
smuggler between Granada and the seaport of
Velez-Mdlaga. The song he sung was one of
the popular ballads of the country.
f
THE pilgrim's bretiart. 395
Worn with speed is my good steed.
And I march me hurried, worried ;
Onward ! caballito mio.
With the white star in thy forehead !
Onward ! here comes the patrol,
And I hear their rifles crack !
Ay, jaleo ! Ay, ay, jaleo !
Ay, jaleo ! they cross our track ! *
The air to which these words are sung is wild
and high ; and the prolonged and mournful ca-
dence gives it the sound of a funeral wail, or a
cry for help. To have its full effect upon the
mind, it should be heard hy night, in some wild
* I here transcribe the original of which this is a single
stanza. Its only merit is simplicity, and a certain grace
which belongs to its provincial phraseology, and which
would be lost in a translation.
** Yo que soy contrabandista,
Y campo por mi respeto,
A todos los desafio,
Porque & naide tengo mieo.
j Ay, jaleo ! \ Muchachas, jaleo !
i Owen me compra jilo negro ?
'* Mi caballo estd cansao,
Y yo me marcho corriendo.
i Anda, caballito mio,
Caballo mio careto !
296 THE filgbim's beitiax^t.
mountain-pass, and from a distance. Then the
harsh tones come softened to the ear, and, in
unison with the hour and the scene, produce a
pleasing melancholy*
The contrabaodista acconqianied us to Gra-
nada. The sun had already set when we en-
tered the Vega, — those luxuriant meadows which
stretch away to the south and west of the city,
league after league of rich, unbroken verdure.
It was Satitfday night; and, as the gatheriiq;
twilight fell around us, and one by one the larnp^
of the cky twinkled in the distimce, suddenly
kindling here and there, as the stars start to their
places in the evening sky, a loud peal of bells
rang forth its gkd welocMne to the day of rest^
i Anda, que riene la ronda,
Y «e mueve el tiroteo !
I Ay, jalee ! j Ay, ay^ jalco !
i Ay, jaleo, que noa cortan !
SacaoM d» aqueato aprieto.
«( Hi oaballo ya no corre,
Ya mi caballo par6.
Todo para en este mundo,
Tambien he de parar yo.
j Ay, jaleo ! ; Muchachaa, jaleo !
i Quien me compra jilo negro? "
THC PlX«eilIM's BRBTIART. 397
orer the meadows to the distant hiUs^ ^^swu^*
ing s]ow» with solemn roar."
Is this reality wad not a dream ? Am I in*
deed in Granada ? Am I indeed within the
walls of that earthly paradise of the Moorish
hings ? How my spuit is stirred within me !
How my heart is lifted up ! How my thoughts
are rapt away in the visions of other days !
Jlv4f Maria puriuima ! It is midnight. The
b^ has tolled the hour 'from the watchtower
of the Alhambra ; and the silent street echoes
only to the watchman's cry^ A)ej Maria pm*
fimma ! I am alone m my chamber, — sleejdess,
•—spell-bound by the genius of the^ place, — en-
tranced by the beauty of the star-fit night. As
I gaze from my window, a sudden radiance
brightens m the east. It is the moon, rising
behind the Alhambra. I can faintly cBscem the
dusky and indistinct outline of a massive tower,
!^andii^ annd the uncertam twilight, like a ^-
gantie shadow. It changes with the rising moon,
as a palace in the clouds, and other towers aod
battlements arbe, — every moment more distinct,
more palpidile, till now they stand between me
298 THE pilgrim's bretiart.
and the sky, with a sbarp outline, distant, and jet
so near that I seem to sit within their shadow.
Majestic spirit of the night, I recognize thee !
Thou hast conjured up this glorious vision for
thj votary. Thou hast baptized me with thy
baptism. Thou hast nourished my soul with
fervent 'thoughts and holy aspirations, and ar-
dent longings after the beautiful and the true.
Majestic spirit of the past, I recognize thee !
Thou hast bid the shadow go back for me upon
the dial-plate of time. Thou hast taught me
to read in thee the present and the future, — a
revelation of man's destiny on earth. Thou hast
taught me to see in thee the principle that un-
folds itself from century to centiny in the pro-
gress of our race, — the germ in whose bosom
lie unfolded the bud, the leaf, the tree. Gen-
erations perish, like the leaves of the forest,
passing away when their mission is completed ;
but at each succeeding spring, broader and high-
er spreads the human mind unto its perfect stat-
ure, unto the fulfilment of its destiny, unto the
perfection of its nature. And in these high rev-
elations, thou hast taught me more, — thou hast
taught me to feel that I, too, weak, humble, and
unknown, feeble of purpose and irresolute of
THE pilgrim's BREYIART; 399
good, have something to accomplbh upon earth,
—like the fallmg leaf, like the passmg wind,
like the drop of rain. O glorious thought ! that
lifts me above the power of time and chance,
and tells me that I cannot pass away, and leave
no mark of my existence. I may not know the
purpose of mj bemg, — the end for which an
all-wise Providence created me as I am, and
placed me where I am ; but I do know — for in
such tiungs faith is knowledge — that mj bemg
has a purpose in the omniscience of my Creator,
and that all my actions tend to the completion,
to the full accomplishment of that purpose. Is
this fatality ? No. I feel that I am free, though
an infinite and invisible power overrules me. Man
proposes, and God disposes. This is one of the
many mysteries in our being which human reason
cannot find out by searching.
Yonder towers, that stand so huge and massive
in the midnight air, the work of human hands
that have long smce foi^otten their cunning in
the grave, and once the home of human beings
immortal as ourselves, and filled like us with
hopes and fears, and powers of good and ill, —
are lasting memorials of their builders ; inanimate
material forms, yet Uvmg with the impress of a
900 THE filgrih's BRETimr*
creative mind. These are hndmarks of other
times. Thus firom the distant past the histCNry
of the faamao race is telegraphed from generation
to generatioD, through the present to all succeed*
ing ages. These are manifestatioiis of the ho*
man mind at a remote period of its fabtory, and
among a people who came from another clime, — >
the cfaikiren of the desert. Their mission is
accomplished) and tbqr are gone ; jet kaving
behind them a thousand records of themselves
and of their ministry, not as yet fully manifest,
but '< seen through a ^ass darkly," dimly shad*
owed forth in the language, and character, and
manners, and history of the nation, that was by
turns the conquered and the conquering. The
Goth sat at the Arab's feet ; and athwart the
cloud and storm of war, streamed the light of
Oriental learning upon the Weston world,—*
*' As when the autumnal sun,
Through travelling rain and mist,
Shines on th« eTening hills."
This morning I visited the Alhambra ; an
enchanted palace, whose exquisite beauty baffles
the power of language to describe. Its outlmes
THE pilgrim's B]t£TIART. SOI
may be drawn, -— its halls and galleries,, its courts
jBids and its fountains, numbered ; but what skil-
ful limner shall portraj in words its curious ar-
chitecture, the grotesque ornaments, the quaint de-
vices, the rich tracery of the walls, the ceilmgs
mlaid with pearl and tortoise-shell ? what Ian*
guage paint the magic hues of light and shade,
the shimmer of the sunbeam as it falls upon the
marble pairement, and the brilliant panels inlaid
with mAy-colored stones ? Vague recollections
fiU my mind, — images dazzling but undefined,
like the memory of a goi^eous dream. They
crowd my brain confusedly, but they will not
stay ; they change and mingle, like the trem-
ulous sunshine on the wave, till imagination itself
is dazzled, -r- bewildered, — ov^owered !
What most arrests the stranger's foot within
the walls of the Alhambra is the refinement of
luxury which he sees at every step. He lin-
gers in the deserted bath, — he pauses to gaze
upon the now vacant saloon, where, stretched
upon his gilded couch, the effeminate monarch
of the East was wooed to sleep by softly breath-
ing music. What more delightful than this se-
cluded garden, green with the leaf of the myrtle
and the orange, and freshened with the gush of
302 THE pilgrim's breviart.
fountains, beside whose basin the nightingale still
wooes the blushing rose ? What more fanciful,
more exquisite, more like a creation of Oriental
magic, than the lofty tower of the Tocador, — its
air7 sculpture resembling the fretwork of wintry-
frost, and its windows overlooking the romantic
vallej of the Darro ; and the city, with its gar-
dens, domes, and spires, far, far below ? Cool
through this lattice comes the summer wind, from
the icy summits of the Sierra Nevada.^ Sofdy
in yonder fountain falls the crystal water, drip-
pmg from its marble vase with never-ceasing
sound. On eveiy side comes up the fragrance
of a thousand flowers, the murmur of innumer-
able leaves ; and overhead is a sky where not
a vapor floats, — as soft, and blue, and radiant
as the eye of childhood !
Such is the Alhambra of Granada ; a fortress,
— a palace, — an eartlily paradise, — a rum,
wonderful in its fallen greatness !
ITALY.
\
THE
JOURNEY INTO ITALY.
What 1 catch is at present only sketch-ways, as it were ;
but I prepare myself betimes for the Italian journey.
GoETBs's Faust.
On the afternoon of the fifteenth of Decem*-
ber, in the. year of grace one thousand eight
•
hundred and twenty-seven, I left Marseilles for
Genoa, taking the sea-i^ore road through Tou*
Ion, Draguignan, and Nice. This journey is
written in my memory with a sunbeam. We
were a company whom chance had thrown to-
gether, — different in ages, humors, and pursuits,
— and yet so merrily the days went by, in sun-
shine, wind, or rain, that methinks some lucky
star must have ruled the hour that brought us
five so auspiciously together. But where is now
that merry company f One sleeps b- his youth-
ful grave ; two sit in their fatherland, and ^^ coiii
their brain for their daily bread " ; and the oth-
20
306 THE JOURNEY INTO ITALT.
ers, — where are they ? If stiD among the Bv-
iog, I beg them to remember in their prayers the
humble historian of their journey from Marseilles
to Genoa.
At Toulon we took a private carriage, in
order to pursue our journey more leisurely and
more at ease. I weD remember the strange, out-
landish vehicle, and our vetturino Joseph, with
his blousCy his short-stenomed pipe, his limping
gait, his comical phiz, and the lowland dialect
his mother taught him at Avignon. Every scene,
every incident of the journey is now before me
as if written in a book. The sunny landscapes
of the Var, — the peasant girls, with their broad-
brimmed hats of straw, — the inn at Draguignan,
with its painting of a lady on horseback, under-
written in French and English, " Unejeune dame
a la promenade^ — A young ladi taking a walk,"
— the mouldering arches of the Roman aqueducts
at Frejus, standing in the dim twilight of morning
like shadowy apparitions of the past, — the woodi
ed bridge across the Var, — the glorious amphi-
theatre of hills that half encircle Nice, — the mid-
night scene at the village inn of Monaco, — the
mountain-road overhanging the sea at a dizzy
height, and its long, dark passages cut through
THE JOURNEY INTO ITALT. 307
the solid rock, — the tumbling mountain- torrent,
— and a fortress perched on a jutting spur of the
Alps ; these, and a thousand varied scenes and
landscapes of this journey, rise before me, as if
still visible to the eye of sense, and not to that
of memory only. And yet I will not venture
upon a minute description of them. I have not
colors bright enough for such landscapes ; and
besides, even the most determined lovers of the
picturesque grow weary of long descriptions ;
though, as the French guide-book says of these
scenes, ^^ Tout cela fait sans doute un spectacle
admirtJfk ! "
On the tenth day of our journey, we reached
Genoa, the city of palaces, — the superb city.
The writer of an old book, called " Time's
Storehouse," thus poetically describes its sit-
uation: — " This cittie is most proudly built upon
^the seacoast and the downefall of the Appenines,
at the foot of a mountaine ; even as if she were
descended downe the mount, and come to repose
berselfe uppon a plaine."
It was Christmas eve, — a glorious night ! I
stood at midnight on the wide terrace of our
908 THE JOURKET INTO ITkhY.
hotel, which overlooks die sea, and, gazuig on
the tiny and crisping waves, that broke in pearly-
light beneath the moon, sent back my wandering
thoughts far over the sea, to a distant home.
The jangling music of church-bells aroused me
from my dream. It was the sound of jubilee
at the approaching festival of the Nativity, and
summoned alike the pious devotee, the curious
stranger, and the gallant lover to the church of
the Annunziata.
I descended from the terrace, and, groping my
way through one of the dark and narrow lanes
which intersect the city in all directions, soon
found myself in the Strada Nuova. The long
line of palaces lay half in shadow, half in light,
stretching before me in magical perspective, like
the long, vapory openbg of a cloud i« tlie sum-
mer sky. Following the various group^ that
were passing onward towards the public square,
I entered the church, where midnight mass was
to be chanted. A dazzling blaze of light from
the high altar shone upon the red marble columns
which support the roof, and fell with a solemn
effect upon the kneeling crowd that filled the
body of the church. All beyond was in dark-
ness ; and from that darkness at intervals burst
THE JOURNEY INTO ITALY. 309
forth the deep voice of the organ and the chant*
ing of the choir, filling the soul with solemnity
and awe. And yet, among that prostrate crowd,
how many had been drawn thither by unworthy
motives, — motives even more unworthy than
mere idle curiosity ! How many sinful purposes
arose in souls unpurified, and mocked at the
bended knee ! How many a heart beat wild
with earthly passion, while the unconscious lip
repeated the accustomed prayer ! Immortal
spirit ! canst thou so heedlessly resist the im-
ploring voice that calls thee from thme errors
and pollutions ? Is not the long day long
enough, is not the wide world wide enough, has
not society frivolity enough for thee, that thou
shouldst seek out this midnight hour, this holy
place, this solemn sacrifice, to add irreverence to
thy folly ?
In the shadow of a column stood a young man
wrapped in a cloak, earnestly conversing in a
low whisper with a female figure, so veiled as
to hide her face from the eyes of all but her
companion. At length they separated. The
young man continued leaning against the column,
and the girl, gliding silently along the dimly light-
ed aisle, mingled with the crowd, and threw her-
310 THE JOURNEY INTO ITALY.
self upon her knees. Beware, poor girl, thought
I, lest thy gentle nature prove thy undoing !
Perhaps, alas ! thou art already undone ! And
I almost heard the evil spirit whisper, as in the
Faust, " How different was it with thee, Marga-
ret, when, still full of innocence, thou earnest
to the altar here, — ^out of the weD worn little
book lispedst prayers, half child-sport, half God
in the heart ! Margaret, where is thy head ?
What crime in thy heart ! "
The city of Genoa is magnificent in parts,
but not as a whole. The houses are high, and
the streets in general so narrow that m many
of them you may almost step across from side
to side. They are built to receive the cool sea-
breeze, and shut out the burning sun. Only
three of them — if my memory serves me —
are wide enough to admit the passage of car-
riages ; and these three form but one continuous
street, — the street of palaces. They are the
Strada Nuova, the Strada Novissima, and the
Strada Baibi, which connect the Piazza Amo-
rosa with the Piazza dell' Annunziata. These
palaces, the Doria, the Durazzo, the Ducal Pal-
ace, and others of less magnificence, — with their
vast halls, their marble staircases, vestibules, and
THE JOURNET INTO ITALY. 311
terraces, and the aspect of splendor and mu-
nificence they wear, — have given this coramer-
cial city the title of Genoa the Superb. And,
as if to humble her pride, some envious rival
among the Italian cities has launched at her a
biting sarcasm in the well known proverb, ''Mare
stnza peace y uomini senza fede^ e donne senza
vergogna^^^ — A sea without fish, men without
probity, and women without modesty !
The road firom Genoa to Lucca strongly re-
•
sembles that from Nice to Genoa. It runs along
the seaboard, now dippmg to the water's edge,
and now climbing the zigzag mountain-pass,
with toppling crags, and yawning chasms,^ and
verdant terraces of vines and olive-trees. Many
a sublime and many a picturesque landscape
catches the traveller's eye, now almost weary
with gazing ; and still brightly painted upon my
mind lies a calm evening scene on the borders
of the Gulf of Spezia, with its broad sheet
of crystal water, — the blue-tinted hills that jprm
Its oval basm, — the crimson sky above, and its
bright reflection, —
313 THE JOURNEY INTO ITALY.
•« Where it lay
Deep boflomed in the vtill and quiet baj,
The sea reflecting all that glowed above,
Till a new sky, softer but not so gay.
Arched in its bosom, trembled like a dove."
Pisa, the melancholy city, with its Leaning
Tower, its Campo Santo, its bronze-gated ca*
thedral, and its gloomy palaces, — Florence the
Fair, with its magniGcent Duomo, its gallery of
ancient art, its gardens, its gay society, and its
delightful environs, — Fiesole, Camaldoli, Val-
kxnbrosa, and the luxuriant Val d' Amo ; — these
have been so often and so beautifully described
by others, that I need not repeat the twice-told
At Florence I took lodgmgs in a house which
looks upon the Piazza Novella. In front of my
windows was the venerable church of Santa Ma-
ria Novella, in whose gloomy aisles Boccaccio
ba^placed the opening scene of his Decamerone.
There, when the plague was ragmg in the city,
one Tuesday morning, after mass, the '' seven
ladies, young and fair," held counsel together.
THE J0UR5EY INTO ITALT. 313
asd resolved to leave the infected city, and flee
to their rural villas in the environs, where they
might '^ hear the birds sing, and see the green
hills, and the plains, and the fields covered with
grain and undulating like the sea, and trees of
species mai^ifold.^'
In ttie Florentine museum is a representation
in wax of some of the appalling scenes of the
plague which desolated this city about the mid-
dle of the fourteenth century, and which Boc-*
caccio has described with such simplicity and
power in the introduction of his Decamerone.
It is the work of a Sicilian artist, by the name
of Zumbo. He must have been a man of the
most gloomy and saturnine imagination, and more
akin to the worm than most of us, thus to have
revelled night and day in the hideous mysteries
of death, corruption, and the charnel-house. It
is strange how this representation haunts one.
It is like a dream of the sepulchre, with its loath-
some corses, with "the blackening, the swell-
ing, the bursting of the trunk, — the worm, the
rat, and the tarantula at work." You breajhe
more freely as you step out into the open air
again; and when the bright sunshine and the
crowded, busy streets next meet your eye, you
S14 THE JOURNEY INTO ITALT.
are ready to ask, Is tbis indeed a representation
of reality ? Can this pure air have been laden
mih pestilence ? Can tbis gay city bave ever
been a city of tbe plague ?
Tbe work of tbe Sicilian artist is admirable
as a piece of art ; the description of tbe Flo-
rentine prose-poet equally admirable as a piece
of eloquence. ^' How many vast palaces," he
exclaims, ^' bow many beautiful bouses, bow
many noble dwellings, aforetime filled with lords
and ladies and trains of servants, were now un-
tenanted even by tbe lowest menial ! How many
memorable families, bow many ample heritages,
bow many renowned possessions, were left with-
out an heir ! How many valiant men, bow many
beautiful women, bow many gende youths break-
fiisted in the morning with their relatives, com-
panions, and friends, and, when the evening came,
supped with their ancestors in tbe other world ! "
I MET with an odd character at Florence, — a
complete humorist. He was an Englishman of
some forty years of age, with a round, good-
humored countenance, and a nose that wore the
livery of good company. He was making the
THE JOURNET INTO ITALY. 315
•
grand tour through France and Italy, and home
again by the way of the Tyrol and the Rhine.
He travelled post, with a double-barrelled gun,
two pair of pistols, and a violin without a bow.
He had been in Rome without seeing St. Peter's,
— he did not care about it ; he had seen St.
Paul's in London. He had been in Naples with-
out visiting Pompeii, because " they told him it
was hardly worth seeing, — nothing but a parcel
of dark streets and old walls." The principal
object he seemed to have in view was to com-
plete the grand tour.
I afterward met with his counterpart in a coun-
tryman of my own, who made it a point to see
every thing which was mentioned in the guide-
books ; and boasted how much he could accom-
plish in a day. He would despatch a city in an
incredibly short space of time. A Roman aque-
duct, a Gothic cathedral, two or three modem
churches, and an ancient ruin or so, were only a
breakfast for him. Nothmg came amiss ; not a
stone was left unturned. A city was like a Chi-
nese picture to him, — it had no perspective.
Every object seemed of equal magnitude and im-
portance. He saw them all ; they were all won-
derful.
316 THE JOUINEY INTO ITALY.
Life is short, and art b long ; yet spare mQ
from thus travelling with the speed of thought,
and trotting, from daylight until dark, at the heels
of a cicerone, with an umbrella in one hand, and
a guide-book and plan of the city in the other.
I COPIED the following singular inscription from
a tombstone in the Protestant cemetery at Leg-
horn. It is the epitaph of a kdy, written by
herself, and engraven upon her tomb at her own
request.
** Under this stone lies the victim of aorrow.
Fly, wandering stranger, from her mouldering dust,
Lest the rude wind, conveying a particle thereof unto thee,
Should communicate that venom melancholy
That has destroyed the strongest frame and liveliest spirit.
With Joy of heart has she resigned her breath,
A living martyr to sensibility ! "
•
How inferior in true pathos is this inscription to
one in the cemetery of Bologna ; —
" Lucrezia Picini
Implora etema pace."
Lucretia Picini implores eternal peace !
From Florence to Rome I travelled with a
THE JOURNEY II7T0 ITAI.T. 317
retturino, hy the way of Siena. We were six
days upon the road, and, like Peter Rugg in the
story-book, were followed constantly by clouds
and rain. At times, the sun, not all'^forgetful oi
the world, peeped from beneath his cowl of mist,
and kissed the swarthy face of his beloved land ;
and then, like an anchorite, withdrew agam (rooi
earth, and gave himself to heaven. Day after
day the mist and the rain were my fellow-ti^v*
eUers ; and as I sat wrapped in the thick folds
of my Spanish cloak, and looked out upon the
misty landscape and the leaden sky, I was contin-
uaBy saying to myself, " Can this be Italy ? "
and smiling at the untravelled credulity of those
who, amid the storms of a northern winter, give
way to the illusions of fancy, and dream of Italy
as a sunny land, where no wintry tempest beats,
and where, even in January, the pale invalid may
go about without his imibrella, or his India-rubber
walk-in-the-waters.
Notwithstanding all this, with the help of a
good constitution and a thick pair of boots, I con-
trived to see all that was to be seen upon the
road. I walked down the long hillside at San
Lorenzo, and along the border of the Lake of
Bolsena, which, veiled in the driving nrist.
318 THE JOURNET INTO IT ALT.
Stretched like an bland sea beyond my ken ; and
through the sacred forest of oak, held in super-
stitious reverence by the peasant, and inviolate
from his axe. I passed a night at Montefiascone,
renowned for a delicate Muscat wine, which bears
the name of Est, and made a midnight pilgrimage
to the tomb of the Bishop John Defoucris, who
died a martyr to his love of this wine of M onte-
fiascone.
" Propter niminm Est, Est, Est,
Dominus meus mortuus est."
A marble slab m the pavement, worn by the foot-
steps of pSgrims like myself, covers the dominie's
ashes. There is a rude figure carved upon it, at
whose feet I traced out the cabalistic words,
''Est, Est, Est." The remainder of the in-
scription was illegible by the flickering light of the
sexton's lantern.
At Baccano I first caught sight of the dome
of Saint Peter's. We had entered the deso-
late Campagna ; we passed the Tomb of Nero,
— we approached the Eternal City ; but no
sound of active life, no thronging crowds, no
hum of busy men, annoimced that we were near
the gates of Rome. All was silence, solitude,
and desolation.
ROME IN MIDSUMMER.
-She who tamed the world seemed to tame herself at last,
and, falling under her own weight, grew to be a prey to Time,
who with his iron teeth consumes all bodies at last, making
all things, both animate and inanimate, which have their be-
ing under that changeling, the moon, to be subject unto cor-
ruption and desolation.
H0WELL*8 SiGNORIE OF ViNICI.
The masks and mummeries of Carnival are
over ; the imposing ceremonies of Holy Week
l]ave become a tale of the times of old ; the illu-
mination of St. Peter's and the Girandola are no
longer the theme of gentle and simple ; and final-
ly, the barbarians of the North have retreated
from the gates of Rome, and left the Eternal
City silent and deserted. The cicerone stands at
the comer of the street with his hands in his
pockets ; the artist has shut himself up in his
studio to muse upon antiquity, ; and the idle
facchmo lounges in the market-place, and plays
at mora by the fountain. Midsummer has come ;
320 ROME IN MIDSUMMER.
and 70U may now hire a pakce for what, a few-
weeks ago, would hardly have paid your night's
lodging in its garret.
I am still lingering in Rome, — a student, not
an artist, — and have taken lodgings in the Piaz-
za Navona, the veiy heart of the city, and one
of the largest and most magnificent squares of
modem Rome. It occupies the site of the an-
cient amphitheatre of Alexander Severus ; and the
churches, palaces, and shops that now surround
it are built upon the old foundations of the amphi*>
dieatre. At each extremity of the square stands
a fountain ; the one with a simple jet of crys-
tal water, the other with a triton holding a dol-
phm by the tail. In the centre rises a nobler
work of art ; a fountain with a marble basin moigt
than two hundred feet in circumference. From
the midst uprises a huge rock, pierced with grot*
toes, wherein sit a rampant sea-horse, and a lion
couchant. On the sides of the rock are four
colossal statues, representing the^four principal
rivers of the world ; and from its summit, forty
feet from the basin below, shoots up an obelisk
of red granite, cov^ed with hieroglyphics, and
fifty feet in height, — a relic of the amphitheatre
of Caracalla.
ROME IN MIDSUMMER. 381
la this quarter of tbe city I have domiciliated
mjTself, m a family of whose many kindnesses I
shall always retam the most lively and grateful
remembrance* My mommgs are spent m visit-
ing the wonders ol Rome, in studjring the mir-
acles of ancient and modem art, or in readii^
at the public libraries. We breakfast at noon,
and dine at eight in the evening. After dinner
comes the conversazione, enlivened with music,
ttid the meeting of travellers, artists, and literary
men from every quarter of the globe. At mid-
night, when the crowd is gone, I retire to my
<(dxunber, and, poring over the gloomy pages of
Dante, or ^^ Baadello's laughing tale,'' protraet
way nightly vigil tiM the morning star is in the sky.
Our windows k>ok out upon the square, whidi
circumstance is a source of infinite enjoymeolt
to me. Directly in front, with its fantastic bd-
fries and sw^Bii^ d(Hne, rises the church of St.
Agnes ; and sittmg by the open window, I note
the busy scene bek>w, enjoy the cool air of
inommg and evemng, and even feel the freshnesB
o! the fountain, as its waters leap in mimic cas-
cades down tbe sides of the rock.
21
322 ROME IN MIDSUMMER.
The Piazza Navona is the chief market-phce
of Rome ; and on market-dajs is filled with
a noisy crowd of the Roman populace, and the
peasantry from the neighbouring villages of Al-
bano and Frascati. At such times the square
presents an animated and curious scene. The
gaylj decked stalls, — the piles of fruits and veg-
etables, — the pyramids of flowers, — the. various
costumes of the peasantry, — the constant move-
ment of the vast, fluctuating crowd, and the deaf-
ening clamor of their discordant voices, that
rise louder than the roar of the loud ocean, —
all this is better than a play to me, and gives me
amusement when naught else has power to amuse.
Every Saturday afternoon m the sultry month
of August, this spjicious square is converted into
a lake, by stopping the conduit-pipes which carry
off the water of the fountabs. Vehicles of every
description, axle-deep, drive to and fro across
the mimic lake ; a dense crowd gathers around
its margin, and a thousand tricks excite the loud
laughter of the idle populace. Here is a fel-
low gropmg with a stick after his seafaring hat ;
there another splashmg in the water in pursuit
of a mischievous spaniel, who is swimming away
with his shoe ; while from a neighbouring bal-
ROME IN MIDSUMMER. 323
•
cony a noisy burst of militaiy music fills the air,
and gives firesb animation to the scene of mirth.
This is one of the popular festivals of midsum-
mer in Rome, and the merriest of them all. It
is a kind of carnival unmasked ; and many a
popular bard, many a poeta di dozzina, in-
vokes this day the plebeian Muse of the market-
place to sing in high-sounding rhyme, '' R Logo
di Piazza •Navona.^^
I have before me one of these sublime effu-
sions. It describes the square, — the crowd, —
the rattling carriages, — the lake, — the fountain,
raised by ^^ the superhmnan genius of Bernini," —
the lion, — the sea-horse, and the triton grasping
the dolphin's tail. ^^Half the grand square,"
thus sings the poet, ^^ where Rome with food
is satiate, was changed mto a lake, around whose
margin stood the Roman people, pleased with
soft idleness and merry holyday, like birds upon
the margin of a limpid brook. Up and down
drove car and chariot ; and the women trembled
for fear of the deep water ; though merry were
the young, and well I ween, had they been borne
away to unknown shores by the bull that bore
away Europa, they would neither have wept nor
screamed ! "
324 ROME IN MIDSUMMER.
«
On the eastern slope of the Janiculum, how
called, from its yellow sands, Montorio, ot the
Golden Mountain, stands the fountain of Acqua
Paola, the largest and most abundant of the Ro-
tban fountains. It is a small Ionic temple, with
six cdumns of reddish granite in front, a spa-
cious hall and chambers within, and a garden with
a terrace in the rear. Beneath the pavement, k
torrent of water from the ancient aqueducts of
Trajan, and from the lakes of Bracdiano and
Martignano, leaps forth in three beautiful cas-
cades, and from the overflowmg basin rushes
down the hill-side to turn the busy wheels of a
dozen mills.
The key of this little fairy palace is ih our
liands, and as often as once a week we pass the
iday there, amid the odor of its flowers, the rush-
ing sound of its watet^, and the enchantments
of poetry and music. How pleasantly the sultry
hours steal by ! Cool comes the summer wind
from the Tiber's mouth at Ostia. Above us is
a sky without a cloud ; beneath us the magnifi-
cent panorama of Rome and the Campagna,
bounded by the Abnizzi and the sea. Glorious
scene ! one glance at thee would move the dull-
est soul, — one glance can melt the painter and
the poet into tears !
RQME IN MIDSUMMER, ^25.
In the imipediate neighbourhood of the fpun*
tain are many objects worthy of the stranger'^
notice. A bowshot down the hill-side towards
the city stands the convent of^ San Pietro in
Montorio ; and in the cloister of this convent
is a small, round Doric temple, built upon the
spot which an ancient tradition points out as the
scene of St. Peter's martyrdom. In the opppr
site direction the road leads you over the shoulder
of die hill, and out through the city-gate to ga;ir-
dens and villas beyond. Passing beneath a lofty
arch of .Trajan's aqueduct, an ornamented gate-
yr^Y on the left admits you to the Villa Pamfili-
Poria, built on the western declivity of the hill.
This is the largest and most magnificent of the
numerous villas that crowd the immediate envi-;
rons of Rome. Its spacious terraces, its marble
statues, its woodlands and green alleys, its lake
and waterfalls and fountains, give it an air of
courtly splendor and of rural beauty, which real-
izes the beau ideal of a suburban villa.
This is our favorite resort, when we have
passe4 fhe day at the fountain, and the aftemoq^
shadow? begin to fall. There we sit on th§
broad marble steps of the terrace, gaze upoq
the varied landscape stretching to the misty sea.
326 ROME IN MIDSUMMEE.
or ramble beneath the leafy dome of the wood-
land and along the margin of the lake,
** And diyp a pebble to see it sink
Down in those depths so calm and cool."
O, did we but know when we are happy !
Could the restless, feverish, ambitious heart be
still, but for a moment still, and yield itself,
without one farther-aspiring throb, to its enjoy-
ment, — then were I happy, — yes, thrice happy !
But no ; this fluttering, struggling, and impris-
oned spirit beats the bars of its golden cage, —
disdains the silken fetter ; it will not close its
eye and fold its wings ; as if time were not swift
enough, its swifter thoughts outstrip his rapid
fliglit, and onward, onward do they wing their
way to the distant mountains, to the fleeting
clouds of the future ; and yet I know, that ere
long, weary, and wayworn, and disappointed,
they shall return to nestle in the bosom of the
past !
This day, also, I have passed at Acqua Pa-
ola. From the garden terrace I watched the
setting sun, as, wrapt m golden vapor, he passed
to other climes. A friend from my native land
was with me ; and as we spake of home, a liquid
ROME IN MIDSUMMER. 327
Star stood trembling like a tear upon the closing
eyelid of the day. Which of us sketched these
lines with a pencil upon the. cover of Julia's Co*
rinna ?
Bright star ! whose soA, familiar ray.
In colder climes and gloomier skies,
1 've watched so oft when closing day
Had tinged the west with crimson dies ;
Perhaps to-night some friend I love,
Beyond the deep, the distant sea.
Will gaze upon thy path above.
And give one lingering thought to me.
ToRQUATi Tasso ossa hic jacent,-— Here
lie the bones of Torquato Tasso, — is the sim-
ple inscription upon the poet's tomb, in the church
of St. Onofrio. Many a pilgrimage is made to
this grave. Many a bard from distant lands
comes tq visit the spot, — and, as he paces the
secluded cloisters of the convent where the poet
died, and where his ashes rest, muses on the
sad vicissitudes of his life, and breathes a prayer
for the peace of his soul. He sleeps midway
between his cradle at Sorrento and his dungeon
at Ferrara.
The monastery of St. Onofrio stands on the
Janiculum, overlooking the Tiber and the city of
S28 ROME IK M1D8UMMEB*
Rome ; and in the distance rise the towers of
die Roman Capitol, where, after long years of
sickness, sorrow, and imprisonment, the laurel
crown was prepared for the great epic poet of
Italy. The chamber in which Tasso died is
still shown to the curious traveller ; and the tree
in the garden, under whose shade he loved to
sit. The feelings of the dying man, as he re-
posed in this retirement, are not the vague conjec-
tures of poetic revery. He has himself recorded
them in a letter which he wrote to his friend An-
tonio Constantini, a few days only before his dis-
solution. These are his melancholy words : —
^^ What will my friend Antonio say, when 1x0
hears the death of Tasso ? Ere long, I think,
the news will reach him ; for I feel that the end
of my life is near ; being able to find no remedy
for this wearisome mdisposidon which is super-
added to my customary infirmities, and by which,
as by a rapid torrent, I see myself swept away,
without a hand to save. It is no longer time to
speak of my unyielding destiny, not to say the in-
gratitude of the world, which has longed even {or
the victory of driving me a beggar to my grave ;
while I thought that the glory which, in spite of
those who will it not, this age shall receive froip
aOME IN MID8UMMEK, d2Q
pay writiQgs was not to leave m^ tbus without re^
ward* I Wq oome to thb monastery of St.
Onofirio, not only because the air is conunended
by physicians as more salubrious than in any otb*
er part of Rome, but that I may, as it were,
commence, in this high place, and in the conver-
sation of these devout fathers, my conversation in
heaven. Pray God for me ; and be assured that
as I have loved and honored you in this present
life, so in that other and more real life will I do
for you all that belongs to charity unfeigned and
true. And to the divine mercy I commend both
you and myself"
The modern Romans are a very devout peo-
ple. The Princess Doria washes the pilgrims'
feet in Holy Week ; every evening, foul or fair,
the whole year round, there is a rosary sung be^
fore an image of the Vir^^ within a stone's
throw of my wbdow ; and the young ladies write
* letters to St. Louis Gonzaga, who in all paintings
and sculpture is represented as young and angeU
ically beautiful. I saw a large pile of these leU
ters a few weeks ago in Gonzaga's chapel, at the
church of St. Ignatius. They were lying at the
830 ROME IN MIDSUMMER.
foot of the altar, prettily written on smooth paper,
and tied with silken ribands of various colors.
Leaning over the marble balustrade, I read the
following superscription upon one of them : —
^^ JlW Jlngelico Giavane S, Luigi Gonzaga,
Paradisoj^^ — To the angelic youth St. Louis
Gonzaga, Paradise. A soldier, with a musket,
kept guard over this treasure ; and I had the au-
dacity to ask him at what hour the mail went out ;
for which heretical impertmence he cocked his
mustache at me with the most savage look imag«
inable, as much as to say, " Get thee gone " : —
^^Andate,
Niente pigliate,
E mai ritomate."
The modern Romans are likewise strongly giv-
en to amusements of every description. Panem
et circenseSy says the Latm satirist, when chiding
the degraded propensities of his countrymen ; Pa-
nem et circenses^ -r- they are content with bread
and the sports of the circus. The same may
be said at the present day. Even m this hot
weather, when the shops are shut at noon, and
the fat priests waddle about the streets with fans
in their hands, the people crowd to the Mauso-
leum of Augustus, to be choked with the smoke
ROME IN MIDSUMMER. 331
of fireworks, and see deformed and humpback
dwarfs tumbled mto the dirt by the masked horns
of young bullocks. What a refined amusement for
the inhabitants of ^' pompous and holy Rome ! "
The Sirocco prevails to-day, — a hot wind
from the burning sands of Africa, that bathes Its
wings in the sea, and comes laden with fogs and
vapors to the shores of Italy. It is oppressive
and dispiriting, and quite unmans one, like the
dog-days of the North. There is a scrap of an
old English song running in my mind, in which
the poet calls it a cool wind 3 though ten to one
I misquote.
** When the cool Sirocco blows,
And daws and pies and rooks and crows
Sit and curse the wintry snows,
Then give me ale ! "
I should think that stark English beer might
have a potent charm agamst the powers of the
foul fiend that rides this steammg, reeking wind.
A flask of Montefiascone, or a bottle of Lacrima
Christi does very weD.
3S2 ROME IN HIDSUMMER.
Beqciars all, — beggars all ! Tbe Papal f^iiy
ia full of tbenn ; an'd they bold you by the bMttPA
through the whole calendar of paints. You can*
not choose but bear. I met an old woman yes-
terday, who pierced my ear with this aUuring pe-
tition : —
^^M rignare ! Qjualcht piccola cosa, per ea-
rita! Vi diro la buana verUura! C* i una btlla
^gnorina^ che tn ama moUo ! Per il Sacro Sa*
cramento ! Per la Madonna I "
Which being interpreted, is, ^^ Ah, Sir, a trifle,
for charity's sake I I will tell your fortune for
you ! There is a beautiful young lady who loves
you well ! For the Holy Sacrament, — for the
Madonna's sake ! "
Who could resist such an appeal ?
I made a laughable mistake thii; morning in
giving alms. A man stood on the shady side of
the street with his hat in his hand, and as I
passed he gave me a piteous look, though he said
nothbg. He had such a wobegone face, and
such a threadbare coat, that I at once took faim
for one of those mendicants who bear the title of
paveri vergognosi^ — bashful beggars ; persons
whom pinching want compels to receive the
stranger's charity, though pride restrains them
ROMfi IN MIDSUBlMERk S33
frodi adkiiig it. Motred with cottipasi^ioii, I threw
km the hat the little I had to give ; whto, itt'-
stead of thanking tai6 with a blessii^)^ txxy man of
the threadbare coat showered upon me the most
sonorous maledictions of his native tongue, and,
emptjring Ihs greasy hat upon the pav^n^it, drew
it down oreit his ears with both hands, and stalked
•way with all the digniQr of a Roman senatot in
lire best days at the Republic, •'— to th^ infinite
amusement of a green-grocer, who stood at his
i9faop-door burstbg with laughter. No time was
jgiven me for an apology ; but I resolved to be for
&e future more discriminating in my charitie^^
and not to take for a be^alr every poor gendie*-
ihan who chose to stand in the shade with his hat
in his hand on a hot summer'is day.
There is an old fellow who hawks pious le«>
gends and the lives of saints through the streets oi
Rome, widi a sharp, cracked voice, that knows no
pause nor division in the sentences it utters. I
just heard him cry at a breath : —
^^ La Vita di San Giuseppe gvel fidel seririt^r
di Dio santo e maraviglioso mezzo baj^cco^^^ «*^
The Life of St. Joseph that faithfid semmit of
God holy and wonderful ha'penny !
334 ROME IN MIDSUMMER.
This is the way with some people ; every
tbing helter-skelter, — heads and tafls, — prices
current and the lives of saints !
It has been a rainy day, — a day of gloom.
The church-bells never rang in my ears with so
melancholy a sound ; and this afternoon I saw a
mournful scene, which still haunts my imagination.
It was the funeral of a monk. I was' drawn to
the window by the solemn chant, as the proces-
sion came from a neighbouring street and crossed
the square. First came a long train of priests,
clad in black, and bearing in their hands large
waxen tapers, which flared in every gust of wind,
and were now and then extinguished by the rain.
The bier followed, borne on the shoulders of
four bare-footed Carmelites ; and upon it, ghast-
ly and grim, lay the body of the dead monk, clad
in his long gray kirde, with the twisted cord
about his waist. Not even a shroud was thrown
over him. His head and feet were bare, and his
hands were placed upon his bosom, palm to palm,
in the attitude of prayer. His face was emaci-
ated, and of a livid hue ; his eyes unclosed ; and
at every movement of the bier, his head nodded
ROME IN MIDSUMMER. 335
to and fro, with an unearthly and hideous as-
pect. Behind walked the monastic brotherhood,
a long and melancholy procession, with their cowls
thrown back, and their eyes cast upon the ground ; *
and last of all came a man with a rough, un-
painted coffin upon his shoulders, closing the
funeral train.
Mant of the priests, monks, monsignori, and
cardinals of Rome have a bad reputation, even
after deducting a tithe or so from the tales of
gossip. To some of them may be applied the
rhyming Latin distich, written for the monks of
old: —
^' O MoDachi,
Vestri stomachi
Sunt amphora Bacchi ;
Yob estis,
Deus est testis,
Turpissinia pestis." ^
The graphic description which Thomson gives
in his '^Castle of Indolence " would readily find
an impersonation among the Roman priesthood : —
*^Fall oft by holy feet our ground was trod, —
Of clerks good plenty here yon mote espy ; —
A little, round, fat, oily man of God
Was one I chiefly marked among the fiy ;
336 ROMS IN IIID801IMER.
He had a rqgakh twinkle in his eje.
Which shone all glittering with nngodlj dew.
When a tight damsel chanced to tiippen by ;
Bat when obsenred, would shrink into his mew,
And straight woald recollect his piety anew."
Yonder across the square goes a Jtfmmit of
Trastevere ; a fellow who boasts the blood of the
old Romans in his veins. He is a plebeian ex-
tjuisite of the western bank of the Tiber, with a
swarthy face and die step of an emperor. He
wears a slouched hat, and blue velvet jacket and
breeches, and has enormous silver buckles m his
shoes. As he marches along, ho sings a ditty in
his own vulgar dialect : —
^* Uno, doe, e tre,
E lo Papa non i tie.
tt
Now he stops to talk widi a woman with a pan
of coals in her hand. What violent gestures !
what expressive -at^des ! Head, hands, and
feet are all in motion, --^ not a muscle b still !
It must be some interesting subject that excites
him so much, and gives such energy to his ges-
tures and his lai^uage. No; he only wants to
light his pipe !
•mtm
ROME IN MIDSUMMER. 337
It is now past midnight. The moon is full
and bright^ and the shadows lie so dark and
massive in the: street that they seem a part of the
walls that cast them. I have just returned from
the Coliseum, whose ruins are so^ marvellously
beautiful by moonlight. No stranger at Rome
oipits this midnight visit ; for though there is
something unpleasluit in having one's admiration
forestalled, and being as it were romantic afore-
thought, yet the charm is so powerful, the scene
so surpassingly beautiful and sublime, — the hour,
the silence? and the colossal ruin have such a
mastery over the soul, — that yt)u are disarmed
when most upon your guard, and betrayed inta
an enthusiasm which perhaps you had silently
resolved you would not feel.
On my .way to the Coliseum, I crossed the
Capitoline hill, and descended into the Roman
Forum by the broad staircase that leads to the
triwnphal arch, of Septimius Sevearus. Close
upon my right hand stood the three remaining
columns of the temple of the Thunderer, and
the beautiful Ionic portico of the temple of
Concord, — their base m shadow, and the bright
moonbeam striking aslant upon the broken entab-
lature above. Before me rose the Phocian Col*
22
338 ROME IN MIDSUMMER.
unm, — an isolated shaft, like a tbin vapor hangmg
m the air scarce visible ; and far to the left, the
ruins of the temple of Antonio and Faustina,
and the three colossal arches of the temple of
Peace, — diiil, shadowy, indistinct, — seemed to
meU awaj and mingle with the sky. I crossed
the Forum to the foot of the Palatine, and, as-
cending the Via Sacra, passed 'beneath the Arch
of Titus. From this point, I saw below me the
gigantic outline of the Coliseum, like a cloud
resting upon the earth. As I descended the hill-
side, it grew more broad and high, — more definite
in its form, and yet more grand in its dimensions,
— till, from the vale in which it stands encom-
passed by three of the Seven Hills of Rome, —
the Palatine, the Coelian, and the Esquiline, — the
majestic ruin in all its solitary grandet» ^^ swelled
vast to heaven."
A single sentmel was pacing to and fro beneath
the arched gateway which leads to the interior,
and his measured footsteps were the only sound
that broke the breathless silence of the night.
What a contrast with the scene which that same
midnight hour presented, when, in Domitian's
time, the eager populace began to gather at the
gates, impatient for the morning sports ! Nor
KOHE IN MIDSUMMER. 3S9
was the contrast widun less striking. Silence,
and the quiet moonbeams, and the broad, deep
shadows of the ruined wall ! Where were the
senators of Rome, her matrons, and her virgins ?
where the ferocious populace that rent the air
with shouts, when, in the hundred holydays. that
marked the dedication of this imperial slaughter-
house, five thousand wild beasts from the Libyan
deserts and the forests of Anatolia made the
arena sick with blood ? Where were the Chris-
tian martjrrs, that died with prayers upon their
lips, amid the jeers and imprecations of their fel-
low-men ? where the barbarian gladiators, brought
forth to the festival of blood, and ^^ butchered
to make a Roman holyday " ? The awful silence
answered, " They are mine ! " The dust beneath
me answered, " They are mine ! "
I crossed to the opposite extremity of > the
amphitheatre. A lamp was burning in the litde
chapel, which has been formed from what was
once a den for the wild beasts of the Roman
festivals. Upon the steps sat the old beadsman,
the only tenant of the Coliseum, who guides the
stranger by night through the long galleries of
this vast pile of ruins. I followed him up a nar-
row wooden staircase, and entered one of the
840 ROME IN MIDSUMMER*
kHig and oiajestic corridors, whbh in andent
times ran entirety round the amphitheatre. Huge
columns of soKd mason^work, that seem the
labor of Titans, support the flattened arches
above ; and tbou^ the iron clamps are gone,
whiqih once fastened the hewn stones together,
jret the columns stand majestic and unbroken,
amid the ruin around them, and seem to defy
^^ the iron tooth of time." Through the arches
at the right, I could faintly discern the ruins of
the baths of Titus on the Esquilbe ; and from
the left, through eveiy chink and cranny of the
wall, poured in the brilliant light of the fuQ moon,
casting gigantic shadows around me, and diffus-
ing a soft, silvery twilight through the long ar*
cades. At length I came to an open space,
where the arches above had crumbled away,
leaving the pavement an unroofed terrace high
in air. From thb point, I could see the whole
interior of the amphitheatre spread out beneath
me, half in shadow, half in light, with such a
soft and indefinite outUne that it seemed less an
earthly reality than a reflection m the bosom of a
lake. The figures of several persons below
were just perceptible, mingling grotesquely with
their fore-shortened shadows. The sound of
ROME IN MIDSUMMER. 341
their voices reached me in a whisper ; and the
cross that stands in the centre of the arena looked
like a dagger thrust into the sand. I did not
conjure up the past, for the past had already be-
come identified with the present. It was before
me in one of its visible and most majestic forms.
The arbitrary distinctions of time, years, ages,
centuries were annihilated. I was a citizen of
Rome! This was the amphitheatre of Flavins
Vespasian !
Mighty is the spirit of the past, amid the ruins
of the Eternal City !
THE
VILLAGE OF LA RICCIA.
Egreflsnm magnA me excepit Aricia RomA,
Hospitio modico.
Horace.
I PASSED the month of September at the vil-
lage of La Riccia, which stands upon the west-
era declivity of the Albanian hills, looking- towards
Rome. Its situation is one of the most beauti-
ful which Italy can boast. Like a mural crown,
it encircles the brow of a romantic hill ; wood-
lands of the most luxuriant foliage whisper around
it ; above rise the rugged summits of the Abruz-
zi, and beneath lies the level floor of the Cam-
pagna, blotted with ruined tombs, and marked
with broken but magnificent aqueducts that point
the way to Rome. The whole region is classic
ground. The Appian Way leads you from the
gate of Rome to the gate of La Riccia. On
one hand you have the Alban Lake, on the other
the Lake of Nemi ; and the sylvan retreats around
THE VILLAGE OF LA RICCIA. . 343
were once the dwellings of Hippolytus and the
nymph Egeria.
The town itself, however, is mean and dirty.
The only inhabitable part is near the northern
gate, where the two streets of the village meet
There, face to face, upon a square terrace, paved
with large, flat stones, stand the Chigi palace
and the village church with a dome and portico.
There, too, stands the village inn, with its beds
of cool, elastic maize-husks, its little dormito-
ries, six feet square, and its spacious saloon, upon
whose walls the melancholy story of Hippolytus
is told in gorgeous frescoes. And there, too,
at the union of the streets, just peepbg through
the gateway, rises the wedge-shaped Casa An-
tonini, within whose dusty chambers I passed
the month of my villeggiaturaj in company with
two much-esteemed friends from the Old Do-
minion, — a fair daughter of that generous clime,
and her husband, an artist, an enthusiast, and a
man of " infinite jest."
My daily occupations in this delightful spot
were such as an idle man usually whiles away
his time withal in such a rural residence. I read
Italian poetry, — strolled in the Chigi park, —
rambled about the wooded environs of the vil-
344 THE TILLAGE OF LA EICCIA.
hge, -— took an airing on a jackass, •*— threw
stones Into the Alban Lake, — and, being seized
at intervals with the artist-mania, that came upon
me like an intermittent fever, sketched-— or
thought I did — the trunk of a hollow tree, or
the spire of a distant church, or a fountain in
the shade.
At such seasons, the mind is ^^ tickled with a
straw," and magnifies each trivial circumstance
bto an event of some importance. I recollect
one morning, as I sat at breakfast in the village
coffee-house, a large and beautiful spaniel came
into the room, and placing his head upon my
knee looked up into my face with a most piteous
look, poor dog ! as much as to say that he had
not breakfasted. I gave him a morsel of bread,
which he swallowed without so much as movmg
his long silken ears ; and keeping his soft, beau-
tiful eyes still fixed upon mine, he thumped upon
the floor with his bushy tail, as if knocking for
the waiter. He was a very beautiful animal,
and so gentle and affectionate in his manner, that
I asked the waiter who his owner was.
^^ He has none now," said the boy.
^^ What ! " said I, ^^ so fine a dog without a
master ? "
THE VILLAGE OF LA RICCIA. 345
^^ Ah, Sir, he used to bebng to Gasparoni, the
famous robber of the Abruzzi mountains, who
murdered so many people, and was caught at
last and sent to the galleys for life. There 's his
portrait on the wall."
It hung dn^ectly in front of me ; a coarse print,
representing the dark, stem countenance of diat
sinful man, a face that wore an expression of
savage ferocity and coarse sensuality. I had
beard his story told in the village ; the accus*
tomed tale of outrage, violence, and murder.
And is it possible, thought I, that this man of
blood could have chosen so kind and gentle a
companion ? What a rebuke must he have met
in those large, meek eyes, when he patted his
favorite on the head, and dappled his long ears
with blood ! Heayen seems m mercy to have
ordained that none — no, not even the most de-*
praved — should be left entirely to his evil nature,
without one patient monitor, — a wife, — a daugh*
ter, — a fawning, meek-eyed dog, whose silent,
supplicating look may rebuke the man of sin ! If
this mute, playful creature, that licks the stran*
ger's hand, were gifted with the power of artic-
ulate speech, how many a tale of midnight storm,
and mountain-pass, and lonely glen, would — but
these reflecUons are commonplace !
346 THE TILLAGE OF LA EICCIA.
On another occasion, I saw an orerladen ass
fall on the steep and slippery pavement of ifae
street. He made violent but useless efforts to
get upon his feet again ; and his brutal driver —
more brutal than the suffering beast of burden -^
beat him unmercifully with his heavy whip. Bar-
barian ! is it not enough that you have laid upon
your uncomplaining servant a burden greater than
he can bear ? Must you scourge this unre-
sbtmg slave, because his strength has failed him
in your hard service ? Does not that imploring
look disarm you? Does not — and here was
another theme for commonplace reflection !
Again. A little band of pilgrims, clad in white,
with staves, and scallop-shells, and sandal shoon,
have just passed through the village gate, wend-
ing their toilsome way to the Jboly shrine of Lo-
retto. They wind along the brow of the hill
with slow and solemn pace, — just as they ought
to do, to agree with my notion of a pilgrimage,
drawn from novels. And now they disappear
behind the hill ; and hark ! they are singing a
mournful hymn, like Christian and Hopeful on
their way to the Delectable Mountains. How
strange it seems to me, that I should ever be-
hold a scene like this ! a pilgrimage to Loretto !
THE VILLAGE OF LA RICCIA. 347
Here was another outline for the unagmation to
fiU up.
But my cluef delight was in sauntering along
the many woodland walks, which diverge in every
direction from the gates of La Riccia. One of
these plunges down the steep declivity of the hill,
and, threading its way through a most romantic
valley, leads to the shapeless tomb of the Ho-
ratii and the pleasant village of Alhano. Another
conducts you over swelling uplands and throu^
wooded hollows to Genzano and the -sequestered
Lake of Nemi, which lies in its deep crater, like
the waters of a well, ^^ all coiled into itself and
round, as sleeps the snake." A third, and the
most beautiful of all, runs in an undulating line
along the crest of the last and lowest ridge of
the Albanian Hills, and leads to the borders of
the Alban Lake. In parts it hides itself in thick-
leaved hollows, in parts climbs the open hill-side
and overlooks the Campagna. Then it winds
along the brim of the deep, oval basin of the
lake, to the village of Castel Gandolfo, and
thence onward to Marino, Grotta-Ferrata, and
Frascati.
That part of the road which looks down upon
the lake passes through a magni6cent gallery of
348 THE TILLAGE OF LA RICCLA.
thick embowerii^ trees^ whose dense and luxuri-
ant foliage completely shuts out the noonday sun,
forming
^ A greemward wagon-way, that, like
Cathedral able, completely roofed with brancbefl,
Runs through the gloomy wood from top to bottom.
And has at either end a Gothic door
Wide open."
This long sylvan arcade is called the GaUerior
ii'Sopraj to distinguish it from the GaUeria^dp'
sottOj a similar, though less beautiful avenue, lead-
ing from Castel Gandolfo to Albano, under the
brow of the hill. In this upper gallery, and al-
most hidden amid its old and leafy trees, stands
a Capuchm convent, with a little esplanade in
front, from which the eye enjoys a beautiful view
of the lake, and the swelling hills beyond. It
is a lovely spot, — so lonely, cool, and still ; and
was my favorite and most frequented haunt.
Another pathway conducts you round the south-
em shore of the Alban Lake, and, after passbg
the site of the ancient Alba Longa, and the con-
vent of Palazzuolo, turns off to the right through
a luxuriant forest, and climbs the rugged preci-
pice of Rocca di Papa. Behind this village
swells the rounded peak of Monte Cavo, the
THE VILLAGE OF LA RICCIA. 349
highest pinnacle d the Albanian Hills, rising three
tbousuid feet above the level of the sea. Upon
its summit once stood a temple of Jupiter, and
the Triumphal Way, by which the Roman coop
querors ascended once a year in solemn proces-
sion to offer sacrifices, still leads you up the side
of the hill. But a convent has been built upon
the ruins of the ancient temple, and the disci-
ples of Loyola are now the only conquerors that
tread the pavement of the Triumphal Way.
The view from the windows of the convent is
vast and magnificent. Directly beneath you, the
sight plunges headlong into a gulf of dark-green
foliage, — the Alban Lake seems so near, that you
can almost drop a pebble into it, — and Nemi,
imbosomed in a green and cup-like valley, lies
like a dew-drop in the hollow of a leaf. AH
around you, upon every swell of the landscape,
the white walls of rural towns and villages peep
from their leafy coverts, — Genzano, La Riccia,
Castel Gandolfo, and Albano ; and beyond spreads
the flat and desolate Campagna, with Rome in
its centre, and seamed by the silver thread of
the Tiber, that at Ostia, ^^ with a pleasant stream,
whirling in rapid eddies, and yellow with much
sand, rushes forward into the sea." The scene
350 THE TILLAGE OF LA EICCIA.
of half the iEneid is spread beneath you like a
map ; and it would need yohmies to describe each
point that arrests the eye in thb magnificent pan*
orama.
As I stood leamng over the balcony of the
convent, giving myself up to those reflections
which the scene inspired, one of the brotherhood
came from a neighbouring cell, and entered into
conversati<Hi with me. He was an old man, with
a hoary head and a trembling hand ; yet his voice
was musical and soft, and his eye still beamed
with the enthusiasm of youth.
^' How wonderful," said he, ^^ is the scene be-
fore us ! I have been an inmate of these walls
for thirty years, and yet this prospect is as beau-
tiful to my eye as when I gazed upon it for the
first time. Not a day passes that I do not come
to this window to behold and to admire. My
heart is still alive to the beauties of the scene,
and to all the classic associations it inspires."
^^ You have never, then, been whipped by an
angel for reading Cicero and Plautus, as St.
Jerome was ? "
" No," said the monk, with a smile. " From
my youth up I have been a disciple of Chrysos-
tom, who often slept with the comedies of Aris-
THE TILLAGE OF LA RICCIA. 851
topbanes beneath his pillow ; and yet I confess
that the classic associations of Roman history and
fable are not the most thrilling which this scene
awakens in my mind. Yonder is the bridge from
which Constantbe beheld the miraculous crosis
of fire m the sky ; and I can never forget that
this convent is built upon the ruins of a pagan
temple. The town of Ostia, which lies before
us on the seashore, is renowned as the spot
where the Trojan fugitive first landed on the
coast of Italy. But other associations than this
have made the spot holy in my sig|it. Marcus
Minutius Felix, a Roman lawyer, who flourished
in the third century, a convert to our blessed
faith, and one of the purest writers of the Latin
church, here places the scene of his ^' Octavius."
This work has probably never fallen into your
hands ; for you are too young to have pushed
your studies 'into the dusty tomes of the early
Christian fathers."
I replied that I had never so much as heard
the book mentioned before ; and the monk con-
tinued : —
^^ It is a dialogue upon the vanity of pagan
idolatry and the truth of the Christian religion,
between Cscilius, a heathen, and Octavius, a
362 THE TILLAGE OF LA EICCIA.
Chmdaii. The style is rich, flowii^, and pociti-
eal ; and if the author handles his weapcms with
less power than a TertuUian, yet he exhibits
equal adroitness and more grace. He has rather
die studied elegance of the Roman lawyer, than
die hcid spirit of a Christian martyr. But the
Folume is a treasure to me in my solitary hoisrsy
and I love to sit here upon the balcony, and con
its poetic language and sweet imagery. Yon
shall see the volume ; I carry it in my bosom."
With these words, the monk drew from the
folds of his gown a small volume, bound in parch-
ment, and clasped with silver ; and, turning over
its well worn leaves, continued : —
^^ In the mtroduction, the author describes him-
self as walking upon the seashore at Ostia, in
company with his fri^ds Octavius and Caecilius.
Observe in what beautiful language he describes
the scene."
Here he read to me the following passage,
which I transcribe, not from memory, but from
die book itself.
'^ It was vacation-time, and that gave me aloose
from my business at the bar ; for it was the sea-
son after the summer's heat, when autumn prom-
ised fair, and put on the face of temperate. We
THE VILLAGE OF LA KICOIA. 353
set out, therefore, in the mormng early, and as
we were walking upon the seashore, and a kmdly
breeze fanned and refreshed our limbs, and the
yielding sand softly submitted to our feet and
made it delicious travelling, Csecilius on a sudden
espied the statue of Serapis^ and, according to the
vulgar mode of superstition, raised his hand to his
mouth, and paid his adoration in kisses. - Upon
which, Octavius, addressing himself to me, said, —
^ It is not well done, my brother Marcus, thus to
leave your inseparable companion m the depth of
vulgar darkness, and to suffer him, in so clear a
day, to stumble upon stones ; stones, indeed, of
fi^e, and anomted with oil, and crowned ; but
stones, however,' still they are ; — for you cannot
but be sensible that your permitting so foul an
error in your friend redounds no less to your dis-
grace than his.' This discourse of his held us
through half the city ; and now we began to find
ourselves upon the free and open shore. There
the gently washing waves had spread the extrem*
est sands into the order of an artificial walk ; and
as the sea always expresses some roughness in his
looks, even when the winds are still, although he
did not roll in foam and angry surges to the
shore, yet were we much delighted, as we walked
23
354 THE TILLAGE OF LA RICCIA.
upon the edges of the water, to see the crisping,
frizzly waves glide in snaky folds, one while play.
bg against our feet, and then again retiring and
lost in the devouring ocean. Softly then, and
calmly as the sea about us, we travelled on, and
kept upon the brim of the gently declining shore,
beguiling the way with our stories."
'Here the sound of the convent-bell interrupted
the reading of the monk, and, closing the vol-
ume, he replaced it in his bosom, and bade me
farewell, with a parting injunction to read the
^^ Octavius " of Minutius Felix as soon as I should
return to Rome.
Durmg the summer months, La Riccia b*a
favorite rescrt of foreign artists who are pursuing
their studies m the churches and galleries of
Rome. Tired of copjring the works of art, they
go forth to copy the works of nature ; and you
win find them perched on their camp-stools at
every picturesque point of view, with white um-
brellas to shield them from the sun, and paint-
boxes upon their knees, sketchmg with busy
hands the smiling features of the landscape. The
peasantry, too, are fine models for their study.
The women of Genzano are noted for their beau-
ty, and almost every village in the neighbourhood
has something peculiar in its costume.
THE VILLAGE OF LA RICCIA. 355
The sultry day was closing, and I had reached,
in mj accustcHned evening's walk, the woodland
gallery that looks down upon the Alban Lake.
The setting sun seemed to melt away in the sky,
dissolving mto a golden rain, that bathed the
whole Campagna with unearthly splendor ; while
Rome in the distance, half-hidden, half-revealed,
lay floating like a mote in the broad and misty
sunbeam. The woodland walk before me seemed
roofed with gold and emerald ; and at intervak
across its leafy arches shot the level rays of the
sun, kindling, as they passed, like the burning
shaft of Acestes. Beneath me the lake slept
Quietly. A blue, smoky vapor floated around its
overhanging cliffs ; the tapering cone of Monte
Cavo hung reflected m the water ; a little boat
skimmed along its glassy surface, and I could
even hear the sound of the laboring oar, so
motionless and silent was the air around me.
I soon reached the convent of Castel Gaildol-
fo. Upon one of the stone benches of the es-
planade sat a monk with a book in his hand. He
saluted me, as I approached, and some trivial re-
marks upon the scene before us led us into con-
versation. I observed by his accent that he was
not a native of Italy, thougli he spoke Italian
356 THE TILLAGE Of* LA EICCIA.
with great fluency. In this opinion I was con-
finned bjr his saying that he should soon bid
£urewell to Itaty and return to his native lakes
and mountains in the North of Ireland. I then
said to Imn in English, —
^^ How strange, that an Irishman and an Anglo-
American should be conversing together in Italian
upon the shores of Lake Albano ! "
<^ It is strange," said he, with a smile ; ^^ though
stranger things have happened. But I owe the
pleasure of this meetii^ to a circumstance which
changes that pleasure mto pain. I have been de-
tained here many weeks beyond the time I had
fixed for my departure by the sickness of a
fi^end, who lies at the point of death within the
walls of this ccmvent."
" Is he, too, a Capuchin fiiar like yourself ? "
" He is. We came together from our native
land, some six years ago, to study at the Jesuit
College in Rome. This simimer we were to
have returned home again ; but I shall now make
the journey alone."
" Is there, then, no hope of his recovery ? "
" None whatever," answered the monk, shak-
mg his head. ^^ He has been brought to this
convent from Rolbe, for the benefit of a purer
THE TILLAGE OF LA RICCIA. 857
air ; but it is only to die, and be buried near the
borders of tbis beautiful lake. He is a victim
of consumption. But come with me to his cell.
He will feel it a kindness to have you visit him.
Such a mark of sjonpathy in a stranger will be
grateful to him in this foreign land, where friends
are so few."
We entered the chapel together, and, ascend*
ing a flight of steps beside the altar, passed into
the cloisters of the convent.^ Another flight of
steps led us to the dormitories above, m one
of which the sick man lay. Here my guide left
me for a moment, and softly entered a neighbour-
ing cell. He soon returned and beckoned me
to come m. The room was dark and hot ; for
the window-shutter had been closed to keep out
the rays of the sun, that in the after part of the
day fell unobstructed upon the western wall of
the convent. In one comer of the little room,
upon a pallet of straw, lay the sick man, with
his face towards the wall. As I entered, he
raised himself upon his elbow, and, stretching out
his hand to me, said, in a faint voice, —
^^ I am glad to see you. It is kind in you to
make me this visit."
Then speaking to his friend, he begged him
358 THE TILLAGE OE LA RICCIA.
to open the wbdow-shutter and let in tbe light
and air ; and as the bright sunbeam through the
wreathing vapors of evening played upon the
wall and ceilii^, he said, with a sigh, —
^^ How beautiful is an Italian sunset ! Its
splendor is all around us, as if we stood in the
horizon itself and (^uld touch the sky. And yet,
to a sick man's feeble and distempered sight,
it has a wan and sickly hue. He turns away
with an aching heart from the splendor he cannot
enjoy. The cool air seems, the only friendly
thing that is left for him."
As he spake, a deeper shade of sadness stole
over his pale countenance, sallow and attenuated
by long sickness. But it soon passed off; and
as the conversation changed to other topics, he
grew cheerful again. He spoke of his return
to his native land with childish delight. This
hope had not deserted him. It seemed never
to have entered his mind that even this consola-
tion would be denied him, — that death would
thwart even these fond anticipations.
" I shall soon be well enough," said he, " to
undertake the journey ; and, O, with what delight
shall I turn my back upon the Apennines ! We
shall cross the Alps into Switzerland, then go
THE TILLAGE OF LA RICCIA. 359
down the Rhine to England, and soon, soon we
shall see the shores of the Emerald Isle, and
once more embrace father, mother, sisters ! B7
my profession, I have renounced the world,
but not those holy emotions of love which are
one of the highest attributes of the soul, and
which, though sown in corruption here, shall
hereafter be raised in mcorruption. No ; even
he that died for us upon the cross, m the last
hour, in the unutterable agony of death, was
mindful of his mother ; as if to teach us that
this holy love should be our last worldly thought,
the last point of earth from which the soul should
take its flight for heaven. "
He ceased to speak. His eyes were fastened
upon the sky with a fixed and steady gaze, though
all unconsciously, for hb thoughts were far away
amid the scenes of his distaqt home. As I left
his cell, he seemed sinking to sleep, and hardly
noticed my departure. The gloom of twilight
had already filled tlie cloisters ; the monks were
chantbg their evening hymn in the chapel; and
one unbroken shadow spread through the long
cathedral aisle of forest*trees which led me home-
ward. There, in the silence of the hour, and
amid the almost sepulchral gloom of the wood-
360 THE TILLAGE OF LA RICCIA.
knd scene, I tried to impress upon my careless
heart the serious and affecting lesson I had
learned.
I saw the sick monk no more ; but a day or
two afterward I heard in the village that he had
departed, — not for an earthly, but for a heavenly
home.
NOTE-BOOK.
NOTE-BOOK.
Once more among the old, gigantic hills,
With vapors clouded o'er.
The vales of Lombardy grow dim behind.
And rocks ascend before.
They beckon me, — the giants, — from afar,
They wing my footsteps on ;
Their helms of ice, their plumage of the pine,
Their cuirasses of stone.
OSBLSNSCHLAGSR.
The glorious autumn closed. From the Abruz-
ad Mountains came the Zampognari, playing their
rustic bagpipes beneath the images of the Vir-
gin in the streets of Rome, and haiUng with rude
minstrelsy the approach of merry Christmas.
The shops were full of dolls and playthings
for the Bifana, who enacts in Italy the same
merry interlude for children that Santiclaus does
in the North; and travellers from colder climes
began to fly southward, like sun-seeking swallows.
I left Rome for Venice, crossing the Apen-
nines by the wild gorge of the Strettura, in a
drenching rain. At Fano we struck mto the
364 NOTE-BOOK.
sands of the Adriatic, and followed the seashore
northward to Rimini, where in the market-place
stands a pedestal of stone, from which, as an
officious cicerone informed me, ^^ Julius Caesar
preached to his army, before crossing the Ru-
bicon." Other principal points in my journey
were Bologna, with its Campo Santo, its gloomy
arcades, and its sausages ; Ferrara, with its du-
cal palace and the dungeon of Tasso ; Padua
the Learned, with its sombre and scholastic air,
and its inhabitants ^^ apt for pike or pen."
I FIRST saw Venice by moonlight, as we
skimmed by the island of St. George m a feluc-
ca, and entered the Grand Canal. A thousand
lamps glittered from the square of St. Mark,
and along the water's edge. Above rose the
cloudy shapes of spires, domes, and palaces,
emerging from the sea ; and occasionally the
twinkling lamp of a gondola darted across the
water like a shootmg star, and suddenly disap-
peared, as if quenched in the wave. There
was something so unearthly in the scene, — so
visionary and fairy-like, — that I almost expected
to see the city float away like a cloud, and dis-
solve into thin air.
NOTE-BOOK. 365
HoweQ, ID his ^^ Si^orie of Venice," says,
^^ It is the water, wherein she lies like a swan's
nest, that doth both fence and feed her." Again :
^^ She swims in wealth and wantonness, as well
as she doth in the waters ; she melts in softness
and sensuality, as much as any other whatso-
ever." And still farther : ^^ Her streets are so
neat and evenly paved, that in the dead of win-
ter one may walk up and down in a pair of satin
pantables and crimson silk stockings, and not be
dirtied." And the old Italian proverb says, —
** Venegia, Venegia,
Chi non ti Tede non ti pregia ;
Mk chi t' ha troppo veduto
Ti dispregia i"
Venice, Venice, he that doth not see thee doth
not prize thee ; but he that hath too much seen
thee doth despise thee !
Should you ever want a gondolier at Venice
to sbg you a passage from Tasso by moonlight,
inquire for Toni Toscan. He has a voice like a
raven. I sketched his portrait in my note-book ;
and he wrote beneath it this inscription : — •
^ Poeta Natural che Venizian,
Ch' el 80 nome xe un tal Toni Toscan."
366 IfOTE-BOOK.
The road from Venice to Trieste traverses a
vast tract of level land, with the Friulian Moun-
tains on the left, and the Adriatic on the right.
You pass through loi^ avenues of trees, and the
road stretches in unbroken perspective before and
behmd. Trieste is a busy, commercial city,
with wide streets btersecting each other at right
angles. It b a mart for all nations. Greeks,
Turks, Italians, Germans, French, and English
meet you at every comer and in every coffee-
house ; and the ever-changing variety of national
countenance and costume affords an amusing and
instructive study for a traveller.
Trieste to Vienna. Daybreak amoi^ the
Camic Alps. Above and around me huge snow-
covered pinnacles, shapeless masses in the pale
starlight, — till touched by the morning sunbeam,
as by Ithuriel's spear, they assumed their nat-
ural forms and dimensions. A long, winding
valley beneath, sheeted with spotless snow. At
my side a yawning and rent chasm ; — a moun-
tain brook, — seen now and then through the
chinks of its icy bridge, — black and treacherous,
— and tinkling along its frozen channel with a
sound like a distant clanking of chains.
NOTE-BOOK. 367
Magnificent highland scenery between Gratz
and Vienna in the Steiermark. The wild moun-
tain-pass firom Meerzuschlag to Schottwien. A
castle built like an eagle's nest upon the top of a
perpendicular crag. A little hamlet at the base
of the mountain. A covered wagon, drawn hj
twenty-one horses, slowly toiling up the slippery,
zigzag road. A snow-storm. Reached Vienna
at midni^t.
On the southern bank of the Danube,- about
sixteen miles above Vienna, stands the ancient
castle of Greifenstein, where — if the tale be
true, though many doubt and some deny it —
Richard the Lion-heart, of England, was impris-
oned, when returning from the third crusade.
It is built upon the summit of a steep and rocky
hill, that rises just far enough from the river's
brink to leave a foothold for the highway. At
the base of the hill stands the village of Greifen-
stein, from which a wmding pathway leads you
to the old castle. You pass through an arched
gate into a narrow court-yard, and thence onward
to a large, square tower. . Near the doorway,
and deeply cut into the solid rock, upon which
368 NOTE-BOOK.
the castle stands, is the ibrin of a human hand,
so perfect that tout own lies in it as m a mould.
And hence the name of Greifenstein. In the
square tower is Richard's prison, completely
isolated from the rest of the castle. A wooden
staircase leads you up on the outside to a light
balcony, running entirely round the tower, not
fior below its turrets. From this balcony you
enter the prison, — a small, square chamber,
lighted by two Gothic windows. The walls of
the tower are some five feet thick ; and in the
pavement is a trapdoor, opening into a dismal
vault, — a vast dungeon, which occupies all the
lower part of the tower, quite down to its rocky
foundations, and which formerly had no entrance
but the trapdoor above. In one comer of the
chamber stands a large cage of oaken timber,
! in which the royal prisoner is said to have been
shut up ; — the grossest lie that ever cheated the
gaping curiosity of a traveller.
The balcony commands some fine and pic-
turesque views. Beneath you winds the lordly
Danube, spreading its dark waters over a wide
tract of meadow-land, and forming numerous little
islands ; and all around, the landscape is bounded
by forest-covered bills, topped by the mouldering
; j'
I. I
,;!
NOTE-BOOK. 369
turrets of a feudal castle or the tapering spire
of a village church. The spot is well worth
visiting, though German antiquaries say that Rich-
ard was not imprisoned there ; this story being
at best a bold conjecture of what is possible,
though not probable.
From Vienna I passed northward, visiting
Prague, Dresden, and Leipsic, and then folding
my wii^gs for a season in the scholastic shades
of Gottingen. Thence I passed through Cas-
sel to Frankfort on the Maine ; and thence to
Mayence, where I took the steamboat down the
Rhine. These several journeys I shall not de-
scribe, for as many several reasons. First, -
but no matter, — I prefer thus to stride across
the earth like the Satumian in Micromegas, mak-
ing but one step from the Adriatic to the German
Ocean. I leav6 untold the wonders of the won-
drous Rhine, a fascinating theme. Not even the
beauties of the Vautsburg and the Bingenloch
shall detain me. I hasten, like the blue waters
of that romantic river, to lose myself in the sands
of Holland.
24
THE
PILGRIM'S SALUTATION
Ve who have traced Um Pilgrim to the scene
Which is his last, if in your memories dwell
A thought which once was his, if on ye swell
A single recollection, not in vain
He wore his sandal-shoon and scallop-ahelL
Guilds Harold.
These, fair dames and courteous gentlemen,
are some of the scenes and musings of my pil-
grimage, when I journeyed away from my kith
and kin into the land of Outre-Mer. And yet
amid these scenes and musings,— * amid all the
novelties of the Old World, and the quick suc-
cession of images that were continually calling
my thoughts away, there were always fond re-
grets and longings after the land of my birth
lurking in the secret comers of my heart. When
I stood by the seashore, and listened to the
melancholy and familiar roar of its waves, it
seemed but a step from the threshold of a for-
eign land to the fireside of home ; and when I
THE pilgrim's SALUTATION. 371
"watched the out-bound sail, fading ovear the wa-
ter's edge, and losing itself in the blue mists
of the sea, my heart went with it, and I turned
away fancy-sick widi the blessings of home and
the endearments of domestic love.
** I know DOt how, — bnt in yon land of roses
My heart was heavy still ;
I startled at the warbling nightingale,
The zephyr on the hill.
They said the stars shone with a softer gleam ;
It seemed not so to me '
In vain a scene of beauty beamed around, —
My thoughts were o'er the sea."
. At times I would sit at midnight in the sol-
itude of my chamber, and give way to the recol-
lection of distant friends. How delightful it is
thus to strengthen within us the golden threads
that unite our sympathies with the past, — to fill
up, as it were, the blanks of existence with
the images of those we love ! How sweet are
these dreams of home in a foreign land 1 How
cahnly across life's stormy sea blooms that Uttle
world of affection, Kke those Hesperian isles
where eternal summer reigns, and the olive blos-
soms all the year round, and honey distils from
the hollow oak ! Truly, the love of home is
372 THE pilgrim's salutation.
interworen with all that is pure, and deep, and
lasting in earthly affection. Let us wander where
we may, the heart looks hack with secret long-
ing to the paternal roof. There the scattered
rays of affection concentrate. Time may en-
feeble them, distance overshadow them, and
the storms of life obstruct them for a season ;
hut they will at length break through the cloud
and storm, and glow, and bum, and brighten
around the peaceful threshold of home !
And now, farewell ! The storm is over, and
through the parting clouds the radiant sunshine
breaks upon my path. God's blessing upon you
for your hospitality. I fear I have but poorly
repaid it by these tales of my pilgrimage ; and I
bear your kindness meekly, for I come not like
Theudas of old, "boasting myself to be some-
body."
Farewell ! My prayer is, that I be not among
you as the stranger at the court of Busiris ; that
your God-speed be not a thrust that kills.
The Pilgrim's benison upon this honorable
company. Pax vobiscum !
COLOPHON.
Heut, take thine euo, —
Men hard to please
Thou baplj mightat offend ;
Though Bome apeak ill
Of thee, some will
Say better ; — there 'l an and.
Mr pilgriinage is ended. I hare come home
to rest; aod, recording the time past, I have
fulfilled these things, and written them in this
book, as it would come into my mind, — for the
most part, when the duties of the day were over,
and the world around me was flushed in sleep.
The pen wherewith I write most easily is a
fealher stolen from the sable wing of night.
Even now, as I record these parting words,
it is long past midnight. The morning watches
have begun. And as I write, the melancholy
thought intrudes upon me, — To what end is
all this toil ? Of what avail these midnight vig-
374 COLOPHON.
ils ? Dost thou covet faipe ? Vain dreamer !
A few brief days, — and what will the busy
world know of thee ? Alas ! this little book
is but a bubble on the stream ; and although it
may catch the sunshine for a moment, yet it will
soon float down the swift-rustung current, and he
seen no more !