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iplete  Coloured 


NUMERICAL    INDEX    AND    KEY    TO    THE    PLAN. 

e  numerical  order  of  the  following  list  agrees  with  the  numbered  paragraphs  in 
.des's  Oxford  Guide,  and  with  the  fiarnres  on  the  small  Key-Pxah  opposite. 
For  ALPHABETICAL  INDEX  see  the  two  pases  following  the  Title-page. 

Page.    No.  Page.  Paes. 

donian  Theatre   ...    2  I  24  Oriel  College 50    52aWycliffe  Hall  1 

molean  Museum  ...    5  ,  25  Corpus  Christi  College  52  ;  52b  Lady  Margaret  Hi 

nitv  School 7    38-7  Merton  College        ...  54  i  52c High  School  for  Girls     ?1 

vocation  House    ...    9    23—31  Christ  Church  60— GS    53  Radcliffe  Infirmarv    ...  -1 

Old  Schools         ...    9    29  The  Cathedral     61    53aSomerville  Hall  ... 

leian  Library        ..  11  I  32  St.  Aldate's  Church   ...  70    536St.  Aloysius  (R.C.)  Ch.  82 
■endoti  Building   ...  13    33  Pembroke  Collesre      ...  7  ilea'  Church        ...  82 

ian  Institute 13    34  Post  Office     ...  " 71    55  St.  John's  College 

Stephen's  House  ...  14    35  Town  Hall  Buildings...  71    56  Taylor  Institution,  &c.  S5 

lham  College H    36  Carfax  Church     7.    -7  Randolph  Hotel 38 

versity  Museum  ...15    37  Ne-y  Road  Chapel       ...73    58  Martyrs*  Memorial     ..   88 

le  College       18    38  New  Inn  Hall  (extinct)  73    59  St.  M.Maedalen  Church  90 

tford  College 21    39  St.  Peter-le- Bailey  Ch.  74 

.-College 21    40  WeslevMemorialChapel  74 

Peter-in-East  Ch....  25    41   Methodist  Free  Church  75 
Edmund  Hall       ...  26    +2  Union  Society's  Rooms  75 

en's  College   2fi  '  43  Conerre»ational  Church  76 

v  Exam.  Schools  ...  27    13aHigh  School  for  Boys    76 
vwell  Church,  &c.     2  Theatre        ......  77 

77 


zdalen  Coll.  School  29 


anic  Garden? SB 

rdalen  College  ...  31 
versitv  College     ...  38 

Souls  College 40 

Marv's  Church  ...  48 
Icliffe  Lib.(Camera)  46 
senose  College  ...  47 
Marv  Hall      49 


44  St.  George's  Church 

15  Worcester  College 

16  Scotch  Church     ... 
47  St.  Paul's  Church 
18  University  Press... 
1!'  St.  Barnabas  Church 
50  RadcliffeObservatorv 

:'hilip&  James  Ch.  80 
52  The  Convent 80 


60  Balliol  Colletre     ... 

61  Trinity  College    ... 

62  Exeter  College     ... 
G:i  Jesus  Coll.- 

•In  College    .. 
I  luirch 

66  St.  Michael's  Church  1,  99 

67  Probate  Court     100 

68-9  Conutv  Hall  &  Castle  100 

70  Countv  Police  Station    1<X> 

71  St.  Thomas's  Church...  100 

72  St.  Ebbe'a  Church      ...  101 

73  Commercial  Rd.  Chapel  101 

74  Holy  Trinity  Church...  I'd. 

75  Mansfield  Collesre       ..  101 
7t>  Manchester  New  Coll.  102 


HOURS  OF   ADMISSION   TO  CHIEF   PLACES  OF    INTEREST. 


PLACE.  HOURS   Ol  . 

All  Souls  College  Chapel  (in  Term)     12  to  I,  2  to  4 

Ashmolean  Museum 1 1  ...to...    4 

Bodleian  Camera  (Radcliffe  Library) 10  ...  to  ...  10 

Bodleian  Library  (usually)  10  ...  to  ...    5 

Botanic  Gardens  (in  summer)  6  to  6,  Stat.  11  to  6 

Christ  Church  Cathedral 11  to  I,  2j4  t 

Christ  Church  Hall 9  . . .  to  . . .    6 

Christ  Church  Library  &  Picture  Gallery  n  to  I,  2  to  4 

City  Public  Library S  ...  to  ...  10 

Divinity  School  and  Convocation  House  9  to  4   or  6 

Examination  Schools  (New)  9 

Exeter  College  Chapel  ...(in  Term  time)  1 

Indian  Institute,  Museum  and  Library...  10 
Keble  College  Chapel  (till  $}4  in  summer) 

—  Hall  and  Library  (iotoi2inLongVac.)  2  . 

Magdalen  College  Chapel  11  . 

Merton  College  Chapel    n  . 

New  College  Chapel  (closes  at  3  on  Sat.)  1 1  to 

Radcliffe  Library,  in  the  Museum 10  . 

Sheldonian  Theatre  (closes  at  4  in  winter)  10  . 

Trinity  College  Chapel  (in  summer  Term)  9  . 

University  Galleries  ...(closed  in  August)  12  . 
University  Museum  (and  Pitt  Rivers)   ...'       2  . 


...  to 
...  to 
to  4 
10  to  12, 

to 

to 
to 

to 
to 
to 
to 
to 


...    4 

•  4 
or  6 
2  to  4 

••    4 

-.I2<2 

•■    5 
2  to  4 

••  4 

..  6 

..  6 

••  4 

••  4 


ADMISSION. 

Free. 

3d- 

3d- 

3d- 
Free. 
Free. 

2d. 

3d- 
Free. 

3d- 

3d- 
Free. 
Free. 
Free. 

6d. 
Fre</. 
Fnfe. 
Free. 
Free. 

3d- 

Free. 

id.,  free  Sat. 

Free. 


NOTE  ON  EXETER  COLLEGE  CHAPEL. 


SINCE  our  description  of  this  Chapel  (on  page  95)  was  printed,  an  important 
alteration  has  been  made  in  the  hours  of  admission.  The  Chapel  is  now  open 
to  visitors  in  term-time  from  1  till  4  p.m.  only,  instead  of  from  10  till  4. 

The  decoration  of  the  Chapel  was  completed  on  the  19th  of  May,  by  the 
placing  on  the  blank  space  of  south  wall,  close  to  the  apse,  of  a  magnificent 
piece  of  Tapestry,  representing  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi.  The  work  was 
designed  by  Mr.  E.  Burne-Jones,  Hon.  D.C.L.,  A.R.A.,  and  executed  by 
Mr.  William  Morris,  M.A.,  both  of  them  Honorary  Fellows  of  this  college. 
The  subject  is  treated  with  great  originality.  Into  the  presence  of  the  Holy 
Mother  and  Child  the  three  visitants  are  entering  with  costly  gifts.  One  is 
represented  as  an  Eastern  monarch,  another  as  a  mailed  warrior,  and  the  third 
as  a  dark-hued  African.  Between  them  and  the  Holy  Babe  is  an  Angel 
holding  the  mystic  star  which  has  guided  them  to  the  Infant's  feet  ;  while 
Joseph  occupies  a  retiring  position  on  the  left  of  the  scene.  The  figures  are 
life  size,  and  the  admirable  expression  of  their  faces,  the  marvellous  intricacy 
and  beauty  of  their  apparel,  with  the  richness  and  variety  of  colour  throughout, 
combine  in  forming  a  piece  of  work  unequalled  in  modern  times  ;  and  Exeter 
College  may  well  be  proud  of  such  a  splendid  addition  to  the  rich  and 
harmonious  decoration  of  this  beautiful  Chapel. 


Office  of  Alden' s  Oxford  Guide, 
June,  i8go. 


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Assembly  Booms  toq  (fonceqfs,  Banquets,  Balls,  theatricals,  «&c. 

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RANDOLPH   HOTEL, 

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The  only  Modern-built   Hotel  in  Oxford,   close  to  the  Colleges  and  Public 
Buildings,  and 

<S)p})osTte  the  ®Gfcartj}ns'  ©Memorial. 

Replete  with  every  comfort  and  convenience.      Handsome  Suites  of  Rooms. 
General  Drawing  Room.     Smoking  and  Billiard  Rooms. 

_A.0Nr    .A  MBRIO  A.3XT    EHjim^^TOIR,- 
LARGE    HALL    FOR    BANQUETS,    BALLS,    &c. 

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Strong  Breakfast  Congou  Is.,  Is.  4d.,  Is.  8d.,  &  2s. 
Fine  Souchong  Flavoured  ditto  -  -  -  2s.  4d. 
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COFFEE. 

Good  Breakfast  Coffee,  loose  or  in  tins  Is.  Od. 

Plantation  ditto  -        -    Is.  2d.      Jamaica  ditto      -  Is.  4d. 

Fine  Jamaica  ditto,  good    ------  is.  6d. 


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CLARETS,  12*.   and  upward*. 

GOOD  CHAMPAGSE,  per  dog.,  26*.;  Half  bottles,  17*. 

REALLY  GOOD   DITTO  {recommended),  bottles,  30*.;  Half  bottles,   17*. 

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RECENT  PRESS  OPINIONS 

on  Last  Year's  issue  of 

ALDEN'S    OXFORD    GUIDE. 

(Fifteenth  Edition,  32nd  Thousand.) 


British  Architect  (July  19,  1S89). 

"  Visitors  to  Oxford  who  are  strangers  and  pilgrims  in  the  land  will  find 
Aldens  Sixpenny  Guide  to  Oxford  a  most  useful  and  interesting  companion. 
Of  the  fourteenth  edition,  issued  in  June,  18S8,  comprising  3,000  copies,  not 
one  remains  on  hand,  which  may  be  taken  as  proof  positive  of  its  appreciation 
at  the  hands  of  the  visiting  public.  Both  the  letter-press  and  the  illustrations 
have  been  added  to,  there  being  now  over  100  pages  of  the  former,  whilst  the 
latter  number  about  fifty,  together  with  a  key-plan  of  the  city." 
Newcastle  Daily  Chronicle  (July  19,  1889). 

"  Alden's  Oxford  Guide  contains  much  valuable  information  anent  the  ancient 
city,  and  many  excellent  engravings.  The  little  book  has  been  very  successful, 
this  being  the  15th  edition." 

Literary  World  (July  26,  1889). 

•'  It  is  full  of  information,  and  a  specially  valuable  feature  are  the  clearly- 
printed  maps." 

Christian  World  (July  25,  1889). 
11  Mansfield  College  is  described  in  the  new  edition  of  Alden's  indispensable 
Sixpenny  Guide  to  Oxford,  and  there  is  an  illustration  of  the  beautiful  porch  of 
the  Chapel." 

Methodist  Times  (July  25,  1889). 
"  An  interesting  and  useful  Guide,  brought  down  to  date." 

"  Oxford  Times  "  (July  13,  1889.). 
"The  fifteenth  edition  of  this  handy  vade-mecum  for  tourists  is  just  issued, 
and  in  addition  to  all  the  useful  information  that  is  to  be  found  in  earlier  issues, 
it  contains  a  description  of  Mansfield  College,  and  nine  new  illustrations." 
[For  other  testimonials  see  end  of  book.] 
OXFORD:   ALDEN  &  CO.,  35,  CORN-MARKET  STREET. 
London  :  Simpkin,  Marshall,  Hamilton,  Kent  and  Co.  (Ltd.) 


A/den's  Oxford  Guide. — Advertisements. 


THE  UNDERMENTIONED  WORKS 

RELATING    TO 

OXFORD 

ARE  KEPT  IN  STOCK  BY 

JlC6cn  &  go.,  l^oo&zcZZexs, 

35,   CORN-MARKET   STREET,    OXFORD. 

Historical  Notices  of  the  Colleges  of  Oxford.     By  Rev.  John  W.  Burgon,  B.D. 

(late  Dean  of  Chichester).     Large  4to,  15s. 
May  Morning  oa  Magdalen  Tower.    A  Poem,  by  Rev.  John  W.  Burgon,  B.D. 

Together  with  the  Hymnus  Eucharisticus  in  Latin,  as  sung  on  the  Tower. 

With  illustrations.     6d. 
Oxford  and  Cambridge;  their  Colleges,  Memories,  and  Associations.      By  the 

Rev.  F.  Arnold,  B.A.,  late  of  Christ  Church.     4to,  illustrated,  10s. 
Oxford.      By    C.    W.    Boase,   M.A.,   Fellow  of  Exeter  College  ("Historic 

Towns"  Series,  edited  by  Dr.  E.  A.  Freeman).     With  maps,  3s.  6d. 
Oxford.     By  the  Rev.  E.  Marshall,  M.  A.,  F.S.  A.      ("  Diocesan  Histories" 

Series.)     With  maps,  2s.  6d. 
Oxford.     Brief  Historical  and  Descriptive  Notes.     By  Andrew  Lang,  M.A., 

late  Fellow  of  Merton  College.     With  forty  illustrations,  cloth,  6s. 
A  History  of  the  University  of  Oxford.     By  the  I  Ion.  G.  C.  Brodrick,  D.  C.  L. , 

Warden  of  Merton  College  ("  Epochs  of  Church  History- "  Series,  edited 

by  Rev.  M.  Creighton,  M.A.).     2s.  6d. 
Costumes  of  the  Members  of  the  University  of  Oxford.      A  Series  of  Coloured 

Plates,  from  Photographs,  on  sheet  folded  in  case,  2s.  6d. 
The  Arms  of  the  Colleges,  emblazoned  in  gold  and  colours,  on  sheet,  2s.  6d. 
The  Student's  Handbook  to  the  University  and  Colleges.   Revised  edition,  2s.  6d. 
The  University  Calendar,  published  annually.     6s. 
Rambles  and  Rides  Around  Oxford  :  a  Description  of  all  the  Localities  within 

Eight  Miles.     With  illustrations,  2s.  6d.  ;  cloth,  3s.  6d. 
Guide  to  Blenheim.     Illustrated.     6d. 

Tom  Brown  at  Oxford.     By  Thomas  Hughes,  crown  8vo,  6s. 
Mr.  Verdant  Green,  an  Oxford  Freshman.     With  illustrations,  3s.  and  3s.  6d. 
Dickens'  Dictionary  of  Oxford,     is. 
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Salter's  Guide  to  the  Thames.     New  Edition,  with  maps  and  illustrations,  is. 
Some  Oxford  Customs.     By  Bee  Bee.     is. 
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(opposite  st.  mary's  church.) 


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TEA  &   COFFEE-CHOPS   &   STEAKS. 

OXFORD  AND  PORK  SAUSAGES.       PRIME  COLLARED  HEAD. 
GOOD  SLEEPING  ACCOMMODATION. 


J It. 

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fHE  Publishers  of  "  Alderis  Oxford  Guide"  respect- 
fully invite  the  attention  of  Visitors  to  their 
unrivalled  collection  of  Photographic  Views  of  the 
University^  City,  and  neighbourhood,  including  a 
large  number  of  New  Subjects,  from  negatives  recently 
taken.  They  have  also  issued  a  series  of  Albums, 
containing  selections  of  Views  printed  by  a  permanent 
process,  which  are  much  admired. 


ALDEN   &  CO., 

"  Bocardo  "  Printing  Works,  35,  Corn-Market  Street, 
Opposite  St.  Michael's  Church  (No.  66  in  Plan). 


890.] 


A  2 


(See page  tf-)  MAY    MORNING    ON    MAGDALEN    TOWER. 


Datroniseo  bn  ^.g.f .  tbe  late  grinte  ^opolb,  guh*  of  §Jbang,  $ .6. 


Ilde-ns 


3M 


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m 


AN  APPENDIX  entitled  "OLD  OXFORD,' 
AND    A    NEW    MAP. 


ORIGINALLY   COM  TILED   AND   ANNUALLY   REVISED 

By  EDWARD  C.  ALDEN. 


THIRTY-FIFTH    THOUSAND.— ENTERED    AT    STATIONERS     HALL. 


<9*forb  : 

ALDEN  &  CO.,  35,  CORN-MARKET  STREET. 
London  :  Simtkin,  Marshall,  Hamilton,  Kent,  and  Co.  (Ltd.) 

1890. 


PREFACE    TO    SIXTEENTH    EDITION. 


f*HE  Fifteenth  Edition  of  this  Handbook,  issued  in  June,  1889,  numbering 
£  three  thousand  copies,  has  been  entirely  exhausted,  making  a  total  sale 
of  32,000  copies.  No  higher  testimony  could  be  given  to  the  public 
appreciation  of  its  utility.  Encouraged  by  the  continuous  and  increasing  suc- 
cess of  the  work,  we  have  again  subjected  it  to  thorough  revision,  and  have 
made  such  alterations  and  additions  as  are  needed  to  keep  pace  with  the  constant 
growth  of  the  City  and  University. 

The  Shilling  Edition  of  "Alden's  Oxford  Guide  "  contains  a  new  Coloured 
Map  of  the  University  and  City,  corrected  to  the  present  date  ;  also  an  Appendix 
entitled  "  Old  Oxford,"  with  some  interesting  particulars  relating  to  the  ancient 
streets,  gates,  fortifications,  &c,  contributed  by  the  late  Major-Gen.  GlBrffes 
Rigaud,  Hon.  M.A.,  Magdalen  College. 

The  visitor  will  save  himself  time  and  trouble  by  a  careful  perusal  of  the 
short  Introduction  (next  to  the  Alphabetical  Index),  before  proceeding  to  the 

pages  which  follow. 

P  *  E.  C.  A. 

Office  of  Alden's  Oxford  Guide, 

3J>  Corn-Market  Street,  June,  i8go. 

*,*  For  opinions  of  visitors,  antiquaries,  and  the  press,  see  "Testimonials"  at  the  end. 


Tram  Cars  now  run  at  Penny  Fares  on  the  following  routes,  to  and  from 
"Carfax": — 1.  The  Railway  Stations,  via  Queen-street;  2.  Cowley-road, 
via  High-street ;  3.  Banbury-road,  via  St.  Giles'-street  ;  4.  Kingston-road,  via 
Beaumont-street;  5.  New  Hincksey,  via  St.  Aldate's-street. 


■SfiKi^as 


S™CK  ANNEX 


rj/ic  number  in  the  first  column  gives  the  position  of  each  place  on  the  Plan,  and  its  order 
in  the  Guide  ■  and  that  in  the  second  column  indicates  the  page  containing  the  description.] 

No.    " 


(Eollcgrs  anU  Isalls: 

All  Souls 
Balliol     - 
Brasenose 
Christ  Church- 
Corpus  Christi 
Exeter     - 
Hertford 
Jesus 
Keble      - 
Lincoln  - 
Magdalen 
Merton    - 
New  Coll. 
Oriel 
Pembroke 
Queen's  - 
St.  John's 
Trinity     - 
University 
Wadham 
Worcester 

New  Inn  Hall  (extinct) 
St.  Alban  Hall  (extinct) 
St.  Edmund  Hall    - 
St.  Mary  Hall 
Charsley's  Hall 
Turrell's  Hall 
Wyclifie  Hall 
St.  Stephen's  House 
Lady  Margaret  Hall 
Somerville  Hall 
Mansfield  College 
Manchester  New  Coll 


No. 

-  19 

-  60 

-  22 

■  28-31 

-  25 

-  62 

-  II 

-  63 

-  10 

-  64 

-  17 

-  26,27 

-  12 

-  24 

-  33 

-  14 

-  55 

-  61 


4S 
33 

27 
23 


!     52" 

j  S-  7* 

Li*  5* 

I*  75 


Page. 
40 
91 
47 
60 

52 
95 
21 
96 
18 
97 
31 
54 
21 

50 
70 
26 
83 
93 
38 
H 
77 
73 
58 
26 

49 
17 
3i 
81 

14 

81 

81 

101 

102 


CnhuK&es  antr  ©hapcls:     No.   Page. 
Cathedral,  Ch.  Ch.    -    29        61 

All  Saints        -         -         -     65         98 

Holy  Cross,  Holywell      -     14^19,29 

Holy  Trinity   -         -         -     74 

St.  Aldate       -         -         -     32 

St.  Barnabas   -         -         -     49 

St.  Clement     - 

St.  Ebbe 

St.  Frideswide 

St.  George-the-Martyr 

St.  Giles 

St.  John  Baptist 

St.  John-the-Evangelist 

St.  Margaret    - 

St.  Martin  (Carfax)  - 

St.  Mary-the- Virgin 

St.  Mary  Magdalen 

SS.  Mary  and  John 

St.  Michael     - 

St.  Paul 

St.  Peter-in-the-East 

St.  Peter-le-Bailey  - 

SS.  Philip  and  James 

St.  Thomas-the-Martyr 

St.  Aloysius  (R.C.) 

Baptist  Chapel,  New  Rd 

Commercial  Rd. 

Brethren's  Meeting  Room 
Congregational  Church 
Methodist  Free  Church 
Society  of  Friends    - 
Wesley  Memorial  Chapel 
Wesleyan  Chapel,  Walton-st. 


72 

44 
54 
26 


36 
20 

59 

66 

47 

13 

39 

51 

7i 

53* 

37 

73 

43 
41 
46 
40 


101 

70 

79 

3i 

101 

100 

77 
82 

54 
3i 
79 
72 
43 
90 

3i 

i,99 
78 
25 
74 
80 

100 
81 

73 
101 

73 
76 

75 
78 
74 
79 


N.B.— Complete  lists  of  the  Heads  of  Colleges  and  Halls,  Terms,  Professors,  and  chief 
officers  of  the  University,  and  the  Ministers  of  the  City  Churches  and  Chapels,  will  be  found 
in  Alden's  Oxford  Almanack,  published  annually,  price  id.  [General  Index  overleaf. 


207869 


Vi.  General  Index.   (For  Colleges  and  Churches,  see  preceding  page.) 


No.  Page- 
Addison's  Walk  -  -  17  37 
Anthropological  Museum  9  17 
Arundel  Marbles  -  -  56  87 
Ashmolean  Museum         -       2  5 

Bacon  (Lord)  Statue  of  -  9  16 
Bird's-Eye  View  from  Sheldonian      3 

"Camera"      47 

Bocardo,  North  Gate       -  1,99 

Bodleian  Library      -  6         11 

Botanic  Gardens  -  -  16  29 
Broad  Walk,  Ch.  Ch.  -  28  59 
Camera  Bodleiana  -  -  21  46 
Carfax  -  -  -  -  X  71 
Castle,  The  -  -  •  69  100 
Cemeteries  :  Holywell  -  14^  19,29 
Jericho  and  Osney  -  79, 100 
Christ  Church  Meadow  -  28  59,69 
City  Public  Library  -     35         71 

Clarendon  Building  -       7         13 

Press        -         -     48         78 

Laboratory        -       9         17 

Convent  of  Holy  Trinity  -  52  80 
Convocation  House  -       4  9 

Corn  Exchange  -  -  35  71 
County  Hall  and  Prison  68,70  100 
Cranmer,  Ridley,  Sec, pages  2,9,44,90 
Divinity  School  ATo.  3  7 

Encamia,  or  Commemoration  5 

Examination  Schools  -  14a  27 
Fox's  (Bp.)  Pastoral  Staff  25  53 
Frewen  Hall    -  74 

Frideswide,  Saint  pages  61,63,74,100 
Guy  Fawkes'  Lantern      No.  2  7 

Gymnasium      ...  98 

Henry  VIIL's  Sword       -       2  6 

High  School  for  Boys      -     43a       76 

Girls       -     S2C       8l 

High  Street  -  38 
Indian  Institute  -  *ja  13 
Isis,  The,  and  the  Barges  59 
Kettel  Hall  ...  95 
Laud's  Porch,  St.  Mary's  20  45 
Liberal  Hall  ...  76 
Magdalen  Bridge  -  -  30,35 
Cloisters  -        -           33,36 


No.     Page. 
Magdalen,  May  Day  at  (frontisp.)  37 

Open  Air  Pulpit  32 

Magdalen  Coll.  School     -  15         29 

Markets,  The  -         -         -  98 

Martyrs'  Memorial  -         -  58         88 

Military  College,  Cowley  31 

Neighbourhood  of  Oxford  103 

Nuneham  Cottages            -  103 
Parks  and  "Mesopotamia"         19,29 

Penitentiary     ...  29 

Picture  Gallery         -         -  6         12 

"Pig  Market,"  The         -  7 

Pitt  Rivers  Museum          -  9         17 

Police  Stations         -         -  70.98,100 

Port  Meadow  -  80 

Post  Office       -         -         -  34        71 

Probate  Court          -         -  67       100 

Physiological  Laboratory  9         17 

Pusey  Memorial  House    -  82 

Radcliffe  Infirmary  -         -  53         81 

Lib.  (Camera)  -  21         46 

(Museum)  -  9         17 

Observatory      -  50        80 

Railway  Stations      -         -  99 

Randolph  Hotel       -         -  57     87-8 

Ruskin  Drawing  School  -  56         88 

"  Salvation  Army"  Barracks  73 

Schools,  The  Old    -         -  5     9-10 

The  New  -         -  14a       27 

School  of  Art  -         -        -  88 

Sheldonian  Theatre          -  1           2 

Bird's-eye  view  from  2-4 

St.  Giles'  Street       -         -  82 

St.  Stephen's  House         -  70       14 

Taylor  Institution    -         -  56        85 

Theatre,  The  New  -         -  43^       77 

Town  Hall  Buildings       -  35         71 
Tramways,  see  back  of  Title. 

Union  Society's  Rooms    -  42         75 

University  Galleries         -  56        86 

Museum   -  9         15 

Observatory  9         17 

Wesley,  John  and  Charles  73,95 
Wycliffe,  John     pages  27,44,52,54,97 

Wykeham's  Staff  &  Jewel  12        24 


**  The  lisitor  is  recommended  to  READ  these  five  pages  before  proceeding. 


ARMS   OF   the   CITY   and   UNIVERSITY. 


[Route.— Use  of  Key  .Plan.  —  Free  Sights. —College  Services,  &c] 

,/^HIS  little  Handbook  is  designed  to  fill 
the  place  of  an  intelligent  companion  to 
the  visitor  in  his  tour  through  Oxford  ; 
giving  concise  yet  exact  descriptions 
of  all  places  of  interest,  with  allusions 
to  their  chief  historical  and  biographical 
associations,  and  brief  notes  on  salient 
points  of  architecture  ;  devoting  a  larger 
proportion  of  time  to  the  more  note- 
worthy objects.  Thus,  without  attempting  to  exhaust  the  innumerable  subjects 
suggested  at  almost  every  step,  it  has  been  our  endeavour  to  enable  the  visitor 
to  gain,  and  to  retain  after  even  the  shortest  sojourn,  a  well-defined  impression 
of  our  ancient  and  renowned  University  city. 

lg^"  The  Route  adopted  may  be  easily  traced  by  following  the  numerical  order 
on  the  Key-Plan,  which  is  so  placed  inside  the  cover  as  to  be  available  for 
constant  reference  ;  corresponding  numbers  being  attached  to  the  description  of 
places  in  the  Guide.  This  system  renders  it  exceedingly  easy  for  the  visitor  to 
follow  the  prescribed  route  (which  is  recommended),  while  it  also  enables  him 
readily  to  take  any  independent  course  he  may  please,  according  to  the  longer 
or  shorter  time  at  his  disposal.  Experience  has  proved  that  this  simple 
arrangement  is  of  much  more  real  service  than  any  complicated  and  confusing 
attempt  to  suggest  a  number  of  alternative  routes. 

tigf  The  use  of  the  Key-Plan  will  be  much  facilitated  by  remembering  that, 
as  in  a  map,  the  North  is  at  the  top  and  the  South  at  the  bottom.  There  ought 
not  to  be  the  slightest  difficulty  in  determining  one's  whereabouts  in  a  city 
like  Oxford,  with  its  numerous  Churches  and  Collegiate  Chapels  all  standing 
due  East  and  West;  and  if,  bearing  this  in  mind,  the  visitor  will  note  our 
frequent  references  to  the  points  of  the  compass  (N.E.S.W  )  he  cannot  possibly 
mistake  his  way.  In  the  larger  Map,  at  the  end  of  the  shilling  and  half-crown 
editions,  the  route  is  distinctly  coloured.  [p.t.o. 


viii.      Free  Sights.— Hours  of  Service.— Advice  for  a  "Flying  Visit." 

tflf*  Free  Sights. — We  desire  to  make  it  clear  to  visitors  that,  as  a  general 
rule,  what  is  most  worth  seeing  in  Oxford  is  freely  accessible  to  them.  Not  in- 
frequently a  group  of  strangers  may  be  observed  peeping  with  timid  gaze  through 
the  gateway  of  some  College,  fearful  lest  in  taking  a  step  across  the  threshold 
they  should  be  guilty  of  trespass,  and  little  dreaming  that  the  beauties  beyond 
the  portals  are  ■  theirs  to  enjoy.'  Let  it  be  remembered,  then,  that  the  quad- 
rangles and  river-side  walks  of  Magdalen  (17)  and  Christ  Church  (28-31),*  the 
Botanic  Gardens  (16),  the  charming  gardens  of  New  College  (12),  St.  John's  (55), 
Worcester  (45),  Trinity  (61),  Wadham  (8),  Exeter  (62)  (from  2  to  7  p.m.),  and 
the  extensive  walks  in  and  beyond  the  New  Parks  {page  19),  are  by  the  kind- 
ness of  the  authorities  open  free  to  visitors.  Among  other  places  of  interest  open 
free  during  the  hours  mentioned  in  the  Guide,  are  Christ  Church  Cathedral  (29), 
and  the  Chapels  of  Keble  College  (10),  New  College  (12),  Magdalen  (17),  All 
Souls  (19),  Merton  (26J,  Trinity  (61),  and  Exeter  (62) ;  the  University  Museum 
(9),  the  new  Indian  Institute  (7^7),  and  the  City  Public  Library  (35)  ;  while  at 
the  Bodleian  Library  and  Camera  (6,21),  the  Sheldonian  Theatre(i),  Ashmolean 
Museum  (2),  Divinity  School  (3),  University  Galleries  (56),  New  Schools  (14a), 
Christ  Church  Hall,  Library,  Picture  Gallery,  and  "  Great  Tom  "  (see  pages 
65-8),  the  Hall  and  Library  of  Keble  College  (10),  &c,  a  very  trifling  fee  only 
is  demanded. f  In  the  Colleges,  no  objection  is  offered  to  a  quiet  walk  through 
the  quadrangles  ;  but  should  an  inspection  of  the  interior  of  Chapels  (with  the 
exceptions  above  mentioned),  Halls,  or  Libraries  be  desired,  application  should 
be  made  to  the  gate  porter,  who  will  expect  a  small  gratuity. 

Jgg°  The  hours  of  Diviue  Service  at  the  College  Chapels  accessible  to  strangers 
are  given  on  pages  23  (New  Coll.),  34  (Magdalen),  56  (Merton),  and  65  (Ch.  Ch.) 

tggT  If  the  visitor  has  hut  a  very  short  time  to  spare,  his  best  course  will  be 

to  run  through  {he  first  half  of  this  book,  seeing  No.  1,  12,  17,  20,  21,  without 

fail ;  and  then  if  possible  to  get  a  look  at  No.  26,  28  to  31.    Another  important 

group— 55  to  62  inclusive-lies  within  easy  distance  of  the  chief  hotels.     It  is, 

however,  extremely  difficult  to  suggest  any  course  suitable  for  a  flying  visit  to  such 

a  city  as  Oxford,  whose  store  of  varied  attractions  demands  and  will  repay  the 

sustained  attention  of  many  days.     The  Table  of  Hours  facing  the  Key-Plan  will 

aid  in  economising  time.     (For  Tram-car  arrangements,  see  back  of  Title-page. ) 

•  These  figures  within  parentheses,  wherever  occurring  in  the  following  pages,  refer  to 
the  numbers  on  the  Plan,  and  to  their  corresponding  paragraphs  in  the  Guide, 
t  See  the  Time-Table  on  the  first  page  of  this  book,  facing  the  Key-Plan. 


SIXTEENTH] 


J  Jlltirn's  cDxtnit!  cToiii&p 


[EDITION. 


^€> 


HE  visitor  is  recommended  to  take  as  his  starting-point  the 

central  spot  (marked  O  on  the  Key-Plan  which  will  be 

found  at  the  beginning  of  this  book), 

where   the    main    thoroughfare    running 

north  and  south  is  crossed  by  the  line 

of  George-street  and  Broad-street  from 

west  to  east.     This  point  being  midway 

between  the  Randolph  and  Clarendon 

Hotels,    strangers    staying   at   either   of 

those  well-known  hostelries   will  find  it 

the  most   convenient   starting-place   for 

the  tour  through  the  city  in  which  we 

now  propose  to  conduct  them. 

[This  starting-point  is  most  directly  reached  from  the  Railway  Stations  via 
Hythe  Bridge-street  and  George-street.  Should  the  visitor,  however,  make 
his  entrance  into  the  city  by  the  Tramway  route,  via  Park- End-street,  New- 
toad,  and  Queen-street  (see  Plan\  he  can  alight  at  "Carfax,"  marked  X  in 
Plan.  From  Carfax  a  walk  of  two  minutes  down  Corn-Market-street,  due  N., 
will  bring  him  to  the  point  above  mentioned,  which  is  quite  easily  recognisable  as 
lying  just  beyond  St.  Michael's  Church,  whose  plain  square  Saxon  tower  is  the 
first  prominent  object  which  strikes  the  eye  looking  northward  from  Carfax.] 

Here  we  find  ourselves  at  once  on  historic  ground.  A  few 
yards  southward,  the  North  Gate  of  the  city*  formerly  spanned  the 

*  See  illustration.  Further  particulars  are  eri^en  in  the  chapter,  "  Old  Oxford," 
appended  to  our  Shilling  Edition.  "  Bocardo  Printing  Works,"  whence  this  Guiae  is 
issued,  occupy  the  site  of  the  bastion  on  the  right  of  the  view,  opposite.St.  Michael's  tower. 


BOCARDO.  NORTH  GATE. 


89o.] 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


road,  close  to  the  ancient  tower  of  St.  Michael's  Church,  which  still 
remains  (see  66*).  From  the  window  of  "  Bocardo," — as  the  prison 
over  the  gateway  was  called — Cranmer  is  said  to  have  witnessed 
the  martyrdom  of  Ridley  and  Latim  _r,  which  took  place  outside  the 
N.  wall,  i6th  Oct.  1555.  We  shall  presently  pass  the  scene  of  their 
sufferings,  marked  by  a  flat  cross  in  the  roadway  opposite  the  S. 
front  of  Balliol  College  (60),  as  we  walk  down  Broad  street.  The 
elegant  Memorial  Cross  erected  in  honour  of  the  Martyrs  will  be 
visited  in  due  course,  or  can  be  inspected  at  once  if  desired  (see  58). 

To  the  marvels  and  beauties  of  Oxford  the  best  introduction  is  to  be  gained 
by  a  bird's-eye  view  from  some  central  and  lofty  position,  whence  the  visitor 
may  survey  the  whole  city  at  a  glance,  and  make  his  choice  of  the  objects  to 
which  he  will  give  closer  inspection  at  his  leisure.  This  choice  can  readily  be 
exercised  ;  for  although  for  convenience'  sake  a  certain  route  is  prescribed  in 
the  following  pages,  yet  by  the  arrangement  of  attaching  to  each  place  on  the 
Key- Plan  a  consecutive  number  corresponding  with  the  description,  the  visitor 
is  enabled  with  perfect  ease  to  take  any  independent  course  he  may  prefer.  On 
the  other  hand,  one  who  has  but  an  hour  to  spend  in  Oxford  cannot  make  a  better 
use  of  that  hour  than  by  taking  a  comprehensive  survey  such  as  we  now  suggest. 

A  Bird's-Eye  View  may  be  obtained  either  from  the  Radcliffe  Library 
(No.  21)  or  the  Sheldonian  Theatre  (No.  1).  The  latter  affords  a  post  of 
observation  which  is  high  and  dry,  and  easy  of  access  in  all  weathers. 

For  this  reason,  as  well  as  others  which  might  be  adduced,  we 
decide  to  begin  our  walk  by  starting  at  once  in  an  eastward 
direction  down  Broad-street  (see  Plan).  On  our  way  we  pass  two 
or  three  noteworthy  places  (Nos.  60,  61),  which  we  must  reserve 
for  future  inspection,  our  present  object  being  to  reach  the 

1.  Sheldonian  Theatre,!  and  mount  the  easy  flight  of  stairs 
leading  to  the  cupola  on  its  roof.     The  view  from  this  octagonal 

*  The  figures  within  parentheses  throughout  this  work  refer  to  the  consecutive  numhers 
prefixed  to  the  various  places  described,  and  correspond  with  their  respective  positions 
on  the  Key-Plan. 

+  The  Sheldouian  is  approached  from  Broad-street  through  a  small  doorway  between 
the  fourth  and  lift;  been  grotesque  stone  busts  cm  pedestals;  and  the  building 

is  entered  bj  a  door  on  the  East  side  (to  the  left  of  our  engraving  on  paye  3).  Open 
in  summer  from  10  till  6,  in  winter  from  10  till  4;  fee.  3d. 


Bird's-Eye  View  from  the  Sheldonian  Theatre.     3 


chamber  presents  a  beautiful  panorama  which  will  surprise  and 
delight  the  visitor  who  gains  from  it  his  first  impression  of  the  city 
of  pinnacles  and  groves.  We  will  briefly  describe  the  scene  from 
each  of  the  eight  windows,  advising  the  visitor  to  trace  the  places 
by  their  numbers  on  the  Plan  and  the  Key  which  faces  it. 

From  theyfrj/  window  on  the  right  hand  at  top  of  staircase,  looking  south- 
ward, we  have  an  unbroken  view  of  academic  and  ecclesiastical  buildings,  the 
most  prominent  of  which  are 
the  grand  dome  of  the  Radcliffe 
Library  (21)  and  the  church 
of  St.  Mary-the-Virgin  (20)  ; 
beyond  these  are  the  tower 
of  Merton  College  (26),  the 
elms  of  the  Broad  Walk, 
Christ  Church  Cathedral  (29) 
tower  and  spire,  new  Belfry 
Tower,  Dining  Hall  (30),  and 
"Tom"  Tower  (31),  partly 
hidden  by  the  steeple  of  All 
Saints'  Church  (65)  ;  while 
more  in  the  foreground  may  be 
traced  the  roofs  of  the  Bodleian 
Library  (6),  Biasenose  (22), 
Lincoln  (64),  and  Jesus  (63) 
Colleges.  From  the  second 
window  to  the  right,  begin- 
ning with  the  spire  of  All 
Saints'  Church  (65),  we  see 
the  roof  of  the  Corn  Exchange 
(35),  the  spire  of  St.  Aldate's 
(32),  the  hall  of  Pembroke  College  (33),  and  further  to  the  right  the  plain 
square  tower  of  Carfax  Church  (36)  ;  while  closer  at  hand  are  the  Bodleian 
(6),  the  library,  new  buildings,  hall,  quadrangle,  entrance  tower,  and  chapel 
of  Exeter  College  (62),  the  high-pitched  roof  and  slender  spirelet  of  the  latter 
being  most  conspicuous  objects.  From  the  third  (west)  window  we  catch 
a  glimpse  (behind  the  chapel  of  Exeter  College)  of  the  tower  battlements  of 
St.  I'eter-le-Bailey  Church  '39),  next  to  which  are  the  lofty  roofs  of  the  Union 
Society's  Rooms  (42',  and  the  elegant  spire  of  the  new  Wesleyan  Chapel  (40). 
Next  come  the  plain  old  Saxon  tower  of  St.  Michael's  {6b),  and  the  gables  and 
intern  of  the  New  High  School  for  Boys.     The  trees  in  the  distance  cover  the 


THE   SHELDONIAN  THEATRE. 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


mound  of  the  ancient  Castle  (69),  and  the  Berkshire  hills  form  a  background  to 
the  whole.  The  fourth  window  gives  us  an  excellent  view  of  Broad  street, 
looking  west ;  the  nearest  buildings  on  the  left  being  the  Ashmolean  Museum 
(2)  and  the  north  front  of  Exeter  College  *62)  ;  on  the  right  are  the  handsome 
new  buildings,  chapel,  and  hall  of  Balliol  v6o),  adjoining  which  are  the  chapel 
and  gardens  of  Trinity  College  (61).  Behind  Balliol  rise  the  roofs  of  the 
Randolph  Hotel  (57)  and  the  Taylor  Institute  (56)  ;  further  in  the  rear  are  the 
campanile  of  St.  Barnabas  Church  (49)  and  the  chimney-shaft  of  the  University 
Press  (48).  To  the  right  are  the  entrance  towers,  garden  front,  £.nd  garden  of 
St.  John's  (55),  St.  Aloysius'  Roman  Catholic  Church,  the  Radcliffe  Observa- 
tory (50)  and  Infirmary  (53),  and  St.  Giles's  Church  (54).  From  the  fifth  or 
north  window,  especially  in  summer  and  autumn,  a  scene  of  unrivalled  beauty 
presents  itself.  Before  us  lie  gardens  and  groves,  rich  with  varying  verdure, — 
the  "  pleasaunces  "  of  St.  John's,  Trinity,  and  Wadham  ;  while  beyond  these 
are  seen  {left)  the  spire  of  SS.  Philip  and  James'  Church  (51),  and  {right)  the 
grand  facade  of  the  University  Museum  (9)  ;  between  them  the  red  brick  of 
Keble  College  (10),  with  its  lofty  chapel,  peeping  here  and  there  through  the 
clustering  trees.  Nearer,  on  the  right,  we  get  a  good  view  of  Wadham  College 
(8),  its  regular  front  and  general  plan  being  clearly  defined.  Its  chapel  is  best 
seen  from  the  sixth  window  ;  from  which  also  we  notice  the  entrance  to  Holy- 
well-street,  marked  by  the  dome  of  the  new  Indian  Institute  (7a) ;  the  N. 
front  of  New  College  (12),  beyond  which  {left)  are  the  new  buildings  of 
Mansfield  (75) ;  while  at  our  feet  is  the  roof  of  the  old  Clarendon  Building 
(7).  The  seventh  (east)  window  shows  the  new  Cherwell  walk,  leading  out  of 
the  Parks,  the  Racquet  Court,  and  the  picturesquely  situated  Church  of  Holy 
Cross,  Holywell,  backed  by  Headington  hill.  Nearer  are  New  College  lane, 
with  Hertford  College  (11)  on  the  right,  and  the  fine  tower  and  chapel  of  New 
College  (12)  embowered  in  the  foliage  of  its  gardens  ;  the  grove  of  Magdalen 
(17)  ;  and  beyond  all,  the  heights  of  Shotover  hill;  while  the  Clarendon  (7) 
and  the  Schools  (5)  form  a  foreground  to  the  picture.  From  the  eighth  window 
we  see  the  ancient  church  of  St.  Peter-in-the-East  (13),  the  Schools  Tower 
(5)  facing  us  on  the  east  side  of  the  Schools  Quadrangle ;  between  this  and 
the  twin  towers  of  All  Souls  (19)  is  Magdalen  Tower  (17)  in  the  distance; 
and  then  the  two  low  towers  of  University  College  (18),  and  the  roofs  of  the 
New  Schools.  The  houses  beyond  are  situated  on  the  Iffley-road  in  the  S.E. 
suburb.  The  line  of  the  High  street  can  easily  be  traced,  from  Magdalen  (17) 
on  the  left  to  Carfax  Church  (36)  on  the  right. 

Before  leaving  this  chamber,  we  venture  to  express  a  hope  that 
the  visitor  will  shun  the  example  of  hundreds  of  his  predecessors, 
who  have  immortalized  their  folly  in  pencil  inscriptions  on  its  walls.* 

•  Should  the  visitor  from  any  cause  be  unable  to  see  the  panorama  from  the  Sheldonian 
described  above,  he  will  have  another  opportunity  of  a  Bird's-Eye  View  from  the  gallery 
»f  the  Radoliffe,  which  will  be  visited  in  due  oouroe  (Bee  No.  21). 


Sheldonian  Theatre. 


Descending,  we  pass  through  a  large  room  originally  occupied  by 
the  University  Printing  Press.  The  spacious  floor  is  laid  over  the 
flat  ceiling  of  the  Theatre,  which  is  sustained  by  enormous  beams. 
Another  descent  brings  us  to  the  "  Undergraduates'  Gallery,"  from 
which  we  gain  a  good  idea  of  the  capacity  of  the  building.  At 
the  annual  Encccnia,  or  Commemoration,  this  gallery  is  crowded 
chiefly  with  junior  members  of  the  University ;  the  galleries  beneath 
are  filled  with  "  dons  "  and  ladies ;  the  area  is  densely  packed  with 
graduates  and  strangers  provided  with  tickets ;  while  the  Creweian 
oration  in  commemoration  of  Founders  and  Benefactors  is  delivered 
and  prize  compositions  are  recited  from  the  "rostra,"  and  honorary 
degrees  conferred  by  the  Vice-Chancellor  on  distinguished  guests. 

The  Theatre  was  bui't  in  1664-9  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  at  the  cost  of 
Abp.  Sheldon,  then  Chancellor  of  the  University,  to  provide  a  more  suitable 
building  for  these  exercises,  which  had  lormerly  been  conducted  in  St.  Mary's 
Church  (20),  as  well  as  to  accommodate  the  University  Press,  which  was  set 
up  under  the  galleries  and  in  the  roof.  From  this  date  till  the  removal  of  the 
press  to  the  Clarendon  Building  (7),  books  issued  by  the  University  bore  on 
their  title-pages  a  vignette  of  the  Sheldonian  Theatre. 

The  design  of  the  building  was  suggested  by  the  Theatre  of  Marcellus  at 
Rome  ;  and  its  arrangements  are  so  ingenious  that  it  will  hold  nearly  4,000 
persons.  The  flat  ceiling  is  in  imitation  of  a  canvas  covering  over  gilt  cords 
stretched  from  side  to  side.  It  was  painted  by  Streater,  serjeant-painter  to 
Charles  I.,  and  represents  allegorically  an  apotheosis  of  the  Arts  and  Sciences, 
surrounding  a  central  figure  of  Truth,  from  whose  presence  Envy,  Rapine,  and 
Ignorance  are  ignominiously  hurled.  On  the  walls  are  portraits  of  the  founder 
(Archbp.  Sheldon),  the  architect  (Sir  Christopher  Wren),  Baron  Crewe,  and  the 
Duke  of  Ormond.  A  fine  organ  (by  Willis:  front  designed  by  Mr.  T.  G. 
Jackson),  erected  in  1877  m  the  S.  gallery,  is  frequently  used  in  illustration 
of  the  public  lectures  of  the  Professor  of  Music  which  are  delivered  here  ;  it  may 
be  heard  also  at  the  occasional  public  "  exercises"  for  the  degree  of  Mus.  Doc, 
performed  in  the  Theatre  under  the  baton  of  their  respective  candidates,  as 
well  as  at  public  performances  of  local  musical  societies.     Close  by  (W.)  is  the 

2.  Ashmolean  Museum,  founded  1682.  Open  daily  from 
11  till  4;  fee  3</.  each.  It  is  the  oldest  museum  in  England, 
having  its  origin  in  the  first  considerable  collection  of  curiosities, 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


formed  by  one  John  Tradescant,  who  founded  at  South  Lambeth 
a  popular  exhibition  known  as  "  Tradescant's  Ark." 

Tradescant  the  elder  died  in  1638,  and  his  son  of  the  same  name  (who  died 
in  1662)  bequeathed  the  collection  to  Elias  Ashmole,  who  had  resided  in  his 
house.  The  latter  added  to  the  original  museum  his  own  collection  of  coins 
and  other  objects,  with  rare  books  and  MSS.,  the  whole  of  which  he  presented 
to  the  University,  by  whom  this  building  was  erected  for  their  reception.  The 
natural  history  collection  and  anthropological  objects  have  been  removed  to  the 
New  Museum  (6),  and  the  classical  inscribed  marbles  to  the  University  Galleries 
(56) ;  but  as  an  archceological  museum  the  Ashmolean  still  takes  very  high  rank. 

Its  most  important  feature  is  its  extensive  Anglo-Saxon  Collection,  contain- 
ing the  objects  found  in  several  cemeteries  of  the  pagan  Eng- 
lish, many  of  them  excavated  f  J  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Oxford.  Among  the  most  jjja  valuable  and  interesting  relics 
are  King  Alfred's  Jewels  dis-  covered  in  1693  near  his  re- 
treat  at    Athelney;    and    the  Sword   presented    to     King 


HENRY   VIII.  3 


SWORD. 


Henry  VIII.  by  Pope  leo  X.,  JL*  wittl  the   title  "Defender  of 

the   Faith."      Our    engraving  fmtM^         represents  the  handle  of  the 

sword,  which  is  curiously  set  with  large  crystals  in  highly 

wrought  silver  mountings  enriched  with  niello-work.  This  sword  was  a  principal 
object  in  Ashmole's  original  collection.  Several  interesting  relics  have  recently 
been  transferred  from  the  Bodleian  (6)  ;  notably  Guy  Fawkes1  Lantern  (see 
Page  7)>  given  to  the  University  in  1641  by  Robert  Heywood.  son  of  the  Justice 
by  whom  the  conspirator  was  arrested.  Here  may  be  seen  the  earliest  known 
example  of  Egyptian  sculpture, — a  limestone  tablet  of  the  time  of  King  Sent 
(Sethenes),  the  second  dynasty  of  the  Old  Empire,  B.C.  4700.  The  inscription 
is  a  most  interesting  specimen  of  primitive  hieroglyphics,  referred  to  by  Dr. 
Isaac  Taylor  in  illustration  of  the  origin  of  the  alphabet.  Great  improvements 
are  in  progress  here.  The  smaller  archaeological  objects  of  classical  interest, 
formerly  scattered  about  in  various  University  buildings,  have  been  transferred 
to  the  fine  Upper  Gallery  ;  and  the  collection  has  been  enriched  by  considerable 
loans  and  donations,  including  some  of  the  finest  known  Greek  tej-ra-cottas, 
bronze,  figurines,  &c,  and  the  best  existing  specimen  of  a  Phcenician  vase, 
found  in  Cyprus,  purchased  in  1885.     The  original  Museum  Trade scantianum 


Ashmolean  Museum.— Divinity  School.  7 

has  been  placed  together  at  one  end  of  the  principal  room  ;  while  the  Archaeo- 
logical department  has  been  enriched  by  the  gift  of  Mr.  C.  D.  E.  Fortnum's 
priceless  collection,  which  includes  Italian  bronzes,  reliefs,  majolica  ware,  and 
other  objects.  '  Wood's  Study  '  has  been  restored  and  fitted  up  as  a  library, 
and  here  are  preserved  in  portfolios  the  historical  photographs  of  Egypt,  Greece, 
Palestine,  and  Rome,  with  a  large  number  of  drawings  and  plans  of  Ancient 
Rome,  the  Catacombs,  ere,  collected  by  Mr.  J.  H.  Parker,  C.B.,  late  Keeper 
of  the  Ashmolean.  In  a  strong  room  is  a  choice  collection  of  gems,  cameos,  &c. 
During  the  year  18S9,  nearly  2,000  separate  objects  have  been  acquired  by  gift 
or  purchase,  including  Mr.  Greville  Chester's  collection  of  Phcenician,  Hittite, 
and  other  oriental  antiquities  ;  also  several  valuable  Egyptian  relics,  among 
them  a  remarkable  Portrait  Mummy.  In  the  basement  are  a  number  of  models 
and  casts  of  mediaeval  architecture,  the  property  of  the  Oxford  Architectural 
and  Historical  Society,  together  with  their  library. 


GUY    FAWKES    LANTERN. 
Turning  to  our  right,  we  approach 

3.  The  Divinity  School,  1445-80  (open  9  to  5,  fee  id.) 
This  beautiful  room  has  long  been  used,  as  its  name  implies,  for 
exercises  for  the  University  degrees  in  Divinity.  Passing  through 
the  Proscholium  (popularly  called  "the  Pig-market" — a  survival 
of  the  base  uses  to  which  it  was  degraded  in  the  latter  part  of 
Henry  VIII. 's  reign),  we  enter  by  a  finely  moulded  Perpendicular 
doorway  a  noble  room  with  arched  stone  roof,  elaborately  groined 
in  every  bay,  and  adorned  with  bosses  rendered  extremely  in- 
teresting by  their  carved  work,  forming  heraldic  bearings,  and  a 


8 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


Convocation  House.— The  Old  Schools.  9 

vast  variety  of  elegantly  composed  monograms.    The  fine  windows 

on  either  side  were  originally  "  richly  dight "  with  glass  of  gorgeous 

hues;  but  these  were  destroyed  by  the  reformers  of  Edward  VI. 's 

reign,  when  the  whole  building  was  allowed  to  fall  into  decay. 

Some  exciting  scenes  were  enacted  here  during  the  tragic  reign  of  Mary. 
On  the  30th  September,  1555,  Latimer  and  Ridley  were  cited  to  appear  in  the 
Divinity  School  before  commissioners  appointed  by  Cardinal  Pole,  to  answer  for 
"  sundry  erroneous  opinions  "  openly  maintained  by  them  in  Oxford.  In  1625 
the  House  of  Commons  met  in  the  Divinity  School,  when  driven  from  London 
by  the  ravages  of  the  plague.  Still  later,  during  the  Civil  War,  it  was  used  as  a 
storehouse  and  armoury.  Towards  the  close  of  the  17th  century  the  building 
was  completey  restored  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  who  also  opened  a  door  on 
the  X.  side  for  the  accommodation  of  processions  into  the  Theatre  (see  page  5). 
The  pulpits  shown  in  the  engraving  are  now  removed  to  the  new  Schools  {14a). 
A  door  at  the  W.  end  of  the  room  gives  access  to 

4.  The  Convocation  House,  opened  Oct.  30,  1640,  used  for 
the  transaction  of  business  by  the  Convocation  of  the  University. 

The  scene  in  this  room  on  "  Degree  days,"  at  the  ceremonial  of  conferring 
degrees  upon  students,  is  one  of  great  interest.  Adjoining  is  the  Apodyterium, 
or  robing-room,  used  also  as  the  Chancellor's  Court- room  :  it  contains  fine 
portraits  of  Lords  Eldon  and  Stowell.  Returning  through  the  Divinity  School, 
we  enter  the  fine  Quadrangle  of 

5.  The  Schools,  1439,  rebuilt  1 613-18.  Although  the  rooms 
on  the  ground  floor  still  retain  over  their  doorways  the  names  of 
the  "faculties,"  they  have  long  ceased  to  be  used  for  teaching 
purposes ;  but  the  public  examination  of  students  was  carried  on 
here  until  1882,  when  the  opening  of  the  New  Examination  Schools 
(14a)  enabled  the  University  to  devote  these  rooms  to  the  much 
needed  enlargement  of  the  Bodleian  Library  (6).  Immediately 
facing  us  on  our  entrance  to  this  court  is  a  picturesque  bit  of 
Renaissance,  the  Schools  Tower,  late  Gothic  in  general  design, 
but  ornamented  with  columns  of  the  five  orders  of  Roman  architec. 
ture,  grouped  in  pairs, — Tuscan,  Doric,  Ionic,  Corinthian,  and 
Composite,— and  a  sculptured  figure  of  James  I.     (See  page  10.) 


10 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


THE    SCHOOLS    TOWER. 
Reproduced  (by  permission)  from  Cassell's  Family  Magazine,  May,  ii 


The  Bodleian  Library.  11 

The  architect  of  the  tower  was  Thomas  Holt,  who  died  in  1624.     It  has 
recently  undergone  thorough  and  faithful  restoration  at  a  cost  of  over  ^"6,000. 

6.  The  Bodleian  Library  {Bibliotheca  Bodleiand)  is  entered 
by  a  small  doorway  in  the  S.W.  corner  of  this  quadrangle.  It  is 
open  daily  (with  certain  exceptions)  from  9  till  5  in  summer, 
closing  earlier  during  the  remainder  of  the  year ;  the  fee  for 
admission  is  3^.  each  ;  and  readers  may  obtain  free  access  to  its 
treasures  on  satisfactory  recommendation.  The  most  ancient 
portion  of  this  library,  over  the  Divinity  School  (3),  was  founded 
by  Humphrey  Duke  of  Gloucester,  son  of  Henry  IV.,  and  built 
1445-80.  To  this  Sir  Thomas  Bodley  added  the  E.  wing  in 
1610,  and  the  W.  wing  was  added  some  thirty  years  later.  The 
Bodleian  contains  about  half-a-million  bound  volumes,  including 
28,000  volumes  of  manuscripts,  and  other  rich  literary  treasures. 
(The  number  of  works  separately  titled  is  about  1%  million.) 
Moreover,  by  a  grant  from  the  Stationers'  Company,  dated  16 10, 
now  merged  in  a  Copyright  Act,  it  enjoys  the  right  to  a  copy  of 
every  work  published  in  this  country ;  and  additions  are  also 
constantly  being  made  to  it  by  purchase  and  presentation.* 
Ascending  the  staircase  we  reach  the  Library. 

"  Directly  we  enter,  wc  are  struck  by  the  stillness  and  solemnity  that  reign 
around,  helped  by  the  dim  lights,  the  windows  with  painted  glass,  the  ponderous 
shelves,  the  illuminated  missals  the  graduates  or  attendants  conversing  in  low 
whispers,  or  moving  quietly  about.  For  reading  purposes  the  library  is  as  free 
and  as  good  as  the  library  of  the  British  Museum;  with  the  advantages  that 
you  may  be  seated  in  front  of  a  window  commanding  a  beautiful  garden  prospect, 
that  your  armchair  is  not  disturbed,  that  books  are  allowed  to  accumulate  around 
you,  and  that  you  are  not  obliged  to  return  them  to  the  care  of  the  custodian  on 
leaving  the  library.  The  visitor  will  not  fail  to  notice  the  portraits  in  the  upper 
library,  and  especially  to  cast  a  grateful  look  at  the  fine  portrait  of  Bodley. 
He  will  see  the  exercise-books  used  by  Edward  VI.  and  Elizabeth  when  children, 
and,  close  by,  the  autographs  of  distinguished  visitors.  The  Picture  Gallery 
(see  p.  12)  is  interesting  as  a  series  of  portraits  of  University  benefactors.  It 
contains  many  curiosities  in  addition  to  the  pictures  :  among  them  a  chair  made 

*  Total  oumber  of  items  received  by  the  Library  in  the  year  1885,-45,873. 


12 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


Clarendon  Building.— Indian  Institute.         13 

out  of  Drake's  ship,  with  an  inscription  by  the  poet  Cowley." — Arnold's 
Oxford  and  Cambridge. 

Here,  too,  are  some  admirable  models  of  ancient  temples,  &c.  From  the 
windows  of  the  Picture  Gallery  we  get  a  striking  view  of  the  fine  building 
(see  No.  21),  now  used  as  a  reading-room  in  connection  with  the  Bodleian. 

Leaving  the  Bodleian,  we  quit  the  Schools  Quadrangle  by  a  passage-way  on 
its  N.  side,  and  crossing  an  open  space,  with  the  Sheldonian  Theatre  to  our 
left  hand,  pass  into  Broad-street  through 

7.  The  Clarendon  Building,  completed  17 13.  It  derives 
its  name  from  the  fact  that  the  profits  of  Lord  Clarendon's  "  History 
of  the  Rebellion,"  the  copyright  of  which  was  presented  to  the 
University  by  his  son,  were  applied  towards  the  cost  of  its  erection. 
To  this  building  the  Printing  Press  of  the  University  was  removed 
from  its  original  quarters  in  the  Sheldonian  (1),  and  here  it  remained 
until  1830,  when  the  present  Printing  Office  (48)  was  erected. 

In  one  of  the  rooms  the  Hebdomadal  Council  of  the  University  now  meet, 
and  other  apartments  are  used  by  the  Registrar,  the  Curator  of  the  Chest,  &c. 

Descending  a  flight  of  steps,  and  crossing  Broad  street,  the  visitor  will  notice 
the  imposing  front  of  the  Clarendon,  and  the  fine  effect  of  the  whole  cluster  of 
buildings  he  has  just  left.  If  we  take  a  few  paces  southward,  towards  the  E. 
front  of  the  Schools,  we  shall  get  an  anticipatory  glimpse  of  another  beautiful 
architectural  group,  to  be  visited  by-and-by  (see  Nos.  20  and  21).  The  new 
building,  conspicuously  situated  at  the  corner  of  Holy  well-street,  is  the 

la.  Indian  Institute,  designed  by  Mr.  Basil  Champneys  in 
the  English  Renaissance  style  of  the  1 7th  cent,  with  oriental  details. 

The  portion  at  present  completed  (occupying  about  half  its  intended  site)  was 
opened  by  the  Vice-Chancel  lor  on  14th  Oct.,  1884.  On  a  brass  tablet  in  the 
entrance  lobby  is  a  Sanskrit  inscription,  deeply  incised,  of  which  the  following 
is  a  translation  : — "This  building,  dedicated  to  Eastern  Sciences,  was  founded 
for  the  use  of  Aryas  (Indian  and  Englishmen)  by  excellent  and  benevolent  men 
desirous  of  encouraging  knowledge.  The  high-minded  Heir- Apparent,  named 
Albert  Edward,  son  of  the  Empress  of  India,  himself  performed  the  act  of 
inauguration.  The  ceremony  of  laying  the  memorial  stone  took  place  on 
Wednesday,  the  18th  lunar  day  of  the  dark  half  of  the  month  of  Vaisakha,  in 
the  Samvat  year  1939  (  =  Wednesday,  May  2,  1883).  By  the  favour  of  God 
may  the  learning  and  literature  of  India  be  ever  held  in  honour  :  and  may  the 
mutual  friendship  of  India  and  England  constantly  increase. "  The  institution 
owes  its  origin  mainly  to  the  advocacy  and  exertions  of  the  Professor  of  Sanskrit 
(Sir  M.  Monier  Williams),  who  thus  describes  its  objects: — "The  work  of 


14  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

fostering  and  facilitating  Indian  studies  in  this  University  ;  the  work  of  making 
Englishmen,  and  even  Indians  themselves,  appreciate  better  than  they  have 
done  before  the  languages,  literature,  and  industries  of  India  ;  the  work  of 
qualifying  young  Englishmen  for  Indian  careers,  and  of  qualifying  young 
Indians,  who  come  to  us  for  training  and  instruction,  to  serve  their  own  country 
in  the  most  effective  manner."  Among  the  means  by  which  these  objects  are 
sought  to  be  attained,  are  :  a  Museum,  illustrating  the  industries,  products, 
natural  history,  and  religious  and  social  life  of  India  :  a  Library  of  Oriental 
books,  MSS.,  &c.  ;  Lecture-rooms,  Reading-rooms,  &c. 

The  Library  is  open  in  Term  from  10  a.m.  till  6  p.m.  and  from  7  30  to  10 
p.m.  ;  in  Vacation  from  10  a.m.  till  4  p.m.  The  Museum  is  open  from  10  till 
6  during  Summer  Term,  and  till  4  at  other  times.  Visitors  are  admitted  on 
application  to  the  officer  in  charge,  and  writing  their  names  and  addresses  in  the 
Porter's  book.     The  Institute  is  entirely  closed  from  Aug.  16th  to  Sept.  14th. 

Proceeding  up  Park-street,  we  pass  on  the  left 
lb.  St.   Stephen's   House,  founded   in   1876  for   training 
candidates  for  Holy  Orders,  especially  for  the  work  of  Foreign 
Missions ;  and  a  few  steps  more  bring  us  to 

8.  Wadham  College,  founded  by  Nicho- 
las Wadham  and  Dorothy  his  wife,  on  the  site 
of  an  old  monastery  of  Augustinian  Friars  ;  the 
first  stone  was  laid  on   16th  August,   161 2. 

Its  buildings  exhibit  a  singular  mixture  of  architecture 
of  coeval  date  ;  the  Gothic  portions  on  the  garden  side 
being   of  unusual   merit.     Through   the   stone-vaulted 

ARMS   OF  WADHAM-  .    &  j  1  .u     -c        j 

gateway  we  enter  a  spacious  quadrangle  ;  on  the  E.  side 
of  which  (facing  us)  is  the  Chapel  with  ante-chapel,  a  fine  well-proportioned 
structure  :  the  glass  in  its  east  window  is  by  Bernard  Van  Linge,  1621.  The 
new  organ  gallery  and  organ  case  are  from  designs  by  Mr.  Jackson  ;  and  there 
has  recently  been  added  an  Old  Communion  Table  of  carved  oak  {temp.  Eliz. ) 
from  Ilminster  Church,  Somerset,  where  Nicholas  and  Dorothy  Wadham  once 
worshipped.  The  Dining  Hall  adjoining  has  a  handsome  screen  and  lofty 
timber  roof,  and  contains  a  number  of  portraits  ;  over  the  entrance  are  sculptured 
figures  of  the  founders  and  King  James  I.  Corresponding  with  the  chapel,  and 
communicating  with  it  by  a  cloister,  is  the  Library.  The  other  three  sides  of 
the  quadrangle  comprise  lodgings  for  the  warden,  fellows,  and  undergraduates. 
The  Garden  is  entered  through  a  passage  at  the  left-hand  corner  :  though 
small  comparatively,  it  possesses  many  beauties,  and  affords  a  picturesque  view 
of  the  Chapel,  Library,  &c.  Amongst  the  eminent  members  of  this  college 
were  Admiral  Blake,  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  Seth  Ward,  Harris,  author  of  the 
11  Hermes,"  Dr.  Kennicott,  and  others. 


The  University  Museum.  15 

Leaving  Wadham  College,  and  pursuing  our  course  northward 
by  a  pleasantly  shaded  path,  with  the  gardens  of  Wadham  on  the 
right  and  those  of  Trinity  (61)  and  St.  John's  (55)  on  the  left, 
we  suddenly  come  upon  the  stately  pile  known  as 

9.  The  University  Museum,  completed  in  i860,  from 
designs  by  Messrs.  Deaneand  Woodward.*  This  Museum  is  much 
more  than  a  mere  collection  of  curiosities  ;  it  is,  in  fact,  about  the 
most  comprehensive  and  complete  institution  in  the  world  for  the 
teaching  and  study  of  the  Natural  Sciences.  Its  objects  are  thus 
briefly  summarized  by  Sir  Henry  W.  Acland,  K.C.B.,  F.R.S.  : — 

"  First,  to  give  the  learner  a  general  idea  of  the  planet  on  which  he  lives,  of 
its  constituent  parts,  and  the  relations  which  it  occupies  as  a  world  among 
worlds  ;  and,  secondly,  to  enable  him  to  study,  in  the  most  complete  and 
scientific  manner,  any  detailed  portion  which  his  powers  qualify  him  to  grasp. 
The  departments  to  which  are  assigned,  for  mutual  aid  and  easy  interchange  of 
reference  and  comparison,  a  common  habitation  under  one  roof,  are  Astronomy, 
Geometry.  Experimental  Physics  with  their  -Mathematics,  Chemistry,  Minera- 
logy, Geology,  Zoology,  Anatomy,  Physiology,  M  edicine.  To  students  of  nature 
in  any  of  these  branches,  every  requirement  is  afforded  by  this  institution  :  as, 
firstly,  work  rooms,  where  they  may  practically  see  and  work  for  themselves  : 
secondly,  lecture- rooms,  where  thty  may  see  and  be  taught  that  which  by  them- 
selves they  could  neither  see  nor  learn  ;  and,  as  an  adjunct  to  these,  rooms  for 
more  private  study  :  thirdly,  general  space  for  the  common  display  of  illustrative 
specimens,  so  placed  as  to  be  convenient  for  reference  and  comparison  between 
all  the  different  branches  :  and  lastly,  a  library,  in  which  the  best  scientific 
books  of  past  and  present  ages  may  be  readily  consulted." 

The  principal  collections  are  arranged  in  a  spacious  quadrangle  covered  by  a 
glass  roof,  supported  on  cast  iron  columns,  with  wrought  iron  ornaments,  repre- 
senting, in  the  large  spandrels  between  the  arches,  interwoven  branches  of  lime, 
chestnut,  sycamore,  walnut,  palm,  and  other  trees  ;  and  in  the  capitals  of  the 
columns  and  the  trefoils  of  the  girders,  leaves  of  elm,  briar,  waterlily,  passion 
flower,  ivy,  &c.  This  central  court  is  surrounded  by  an  open  arcade  of  two 
storeys,  furnishing  ready  means  of  communication  between  the  several  depart- 
ments and  their  collections  in  the  area. 

On  the  ground  floor,  this  arcade  comprises  33  piers  and  30  shafts  ;  and  in  the 
upper  corridor  there  are  33  piers  and  95  shafts.     Thus  the  court  is  surrounded 

*  Open  free  to  strangers  daily  from  2  till  4;  members  of  the  University  and  students 
introduced  by  a  Professor,  from  10  till  2.  Residents  in  Oxford  must  be  accompanied  by 
a  member  of  the  University,  or  bear  an  order  from  a  member  of  Convocation. 


16 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


by  125  shafts,  and  191  capitals  and  bases.  The  shafts  were  carefully  selected, 
under  the  direction  of  the  late  eminent  Professor  of  Geology  (J.  Phillips,  F.R.S.) 
as  examples  of  many  of  the  most  important  rocks  of  the  British  Islands;  and 

the  capitals  are  beauti- 
fully carved  represen- 
vmmmS^&:.  tations  of  natural  ob- 

jects. "Thus"  — to 
quote  the  Professor — 
"this  is  not  a  hap- 
hazard collection  of 
pretty  stones  crowned 
with  pretty  flowers  ; 
but  a  selection  of  mar- 
bles and  sculptures 
intended  to  illustrate 
points  of  some  interest 
and  importance  in 
science  and  art."  On 
massive  corbels,  pro- 
jecting from  the  fronts 
of  the  piers  on  the 
ground  floor,  are 
placed  statues  of  men 
eminent  in  the  several 
branches  of  natural 
science.  Her  Majesty 
the  Queen  presented 
statues  of  the  first  of 
the  modern  school, — 
Francis,  Lord  Bacon, 
and  four  other  eminent 
scientists  ;  the  last 
(John  Hunter)  was  un- 
veiled by  the  Princess 
Christian,  May  30th, 
1886.  Round  the 
arcade  are  arranged 
the  various  rooms  re- 
\%i ;-  .,..,.;.  _■   ...  .'...': '.■.iii .'.  L-ial: >'-■■■■"  quired    for    each   de- 

statue  of  lord  bacon,  in  the  museum-  partment  of  study. 

Removed  from  the  principal  pile  north  and  south,  yet  easily 
accessible  from  the  lecture-rooms  and  court,  are  dissecting-rooms, 


Museum,  Observatory,  and  Laboratories.        17 

workshops,  furnace  rooms,  and  laboratories  ;  the  great  Chemical 
Laboratory  (enlarged  in  187S)  forming  a  strikingly  picturesque 
object  at  the  S.W.  angle. 

On  the  upper  floor  of  the  Museum  is  a  Theatre  or  Lecture  Room  seating 
600  persons  ;  also  a  room  devoted  to  cabinets  of  the  choicest  butterflies,  moths, 
&c. ,  forming  the  Hopeian  Entomological  collection  ;  and  extending  200  feet 
along  the  W.  front  is  the  valuable  Radcliffe  Library  of  Natural  Science, 
open  daily  from  10  till  4.  and  on  certain  evenings  during  Term  from  7  to  9  p.m. 
All  persons  are  admitted  to  read,  on  satisfactory  recommendation. 

The  Pitt  Rivers  Collection  is  contained  in  an  annexe  to 
the  main  building,  of  tasteful  design,  which  was  opened  in  1887. 

This  collection  consists  of  musical  instruments,  implements  of  war,  models  of 
boats,  pottery  and  other  ornamental  art,  intended  by  its  donor,  General  Pitt 
Rivers,  D.  C.L.,  F.  R.S.  (formt-rly  Col.  Lane- Fox),  to  illustrate  the  gradual 
development  of  invention,  and  forming  a  most  interesting  Anthropological 
Museum.  The  collection  is  in  course  Qf  re-arrangement  under  the  care  of 
Professor  Moseley,  F.R.S.  ;  and  many  additions  have  been  made  to  it  from  the 
Ashmolean  (2)  and  other  sources.  It  is  open  free  to  visitors  daily  from  2  till 
4  p.m.     At  the  N.W.  of  the  Museum  stands  the 

Clarendon  Laboratory,  devoted  to  the  study  of  experi- 
mental physics.  It  was  completed  in  1S72,  at  the  cost  of  the 
Clarendon  trustees,  out  of  a  fund  arising  from  the  publication  of 
certain  MSS.  of  the  Earl  of  Clarendon,  formerly  Lord  Chancellor. 
Other  recent  additions  to  this  temple  of  modern  science  are  the 

Physiological  Laboratory,  erected  in  1885  for  the  use  of 
Prof.  Burdon  Sanderson,  at  a  cost  of  some  ,£10,000,  from  designs 
by  Messrs.  Deane  and  Son,  of  Dublin ;  and  farther  E.  the 

Astronomical  Observatory,  built  by  the  University  in 
1874,  for  the  use  of  the  Savilian  Professor. 

It  is  fitted  up  with  all  the  best  apparatus  for  the  studvof  Physical  Astronomy, 
including  the  celebrated  reflecting  telescope  and  other  valuable  instruments 
presented  by  the  late  Dr.  Warren  he  la  Hue,  F.  I\  S. 

Facing  the  Museum  is  Charsley  Hall,  the  first  private  Hall  founded 
under  the  statute  of  1858  ;  it  is  under  the  care  of  Mr.  W.  H.  Charsley,  M  A. 
Next  to  this,  N.,  is  the  residence  of  the  Warden  of  Keble,  adjoining  the  front  of 

1890.]  C 


18  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

10.   Keble  College,  opened   by  the  Marquis  of  Salisbury, 
Chancellor  of  the  University,  June  23,   1870. 

It  was  founded  by  subscription  in  memory  of  the  author  of 
the  "Christian  year,"— the  late  Rev.  John  Keble,  sometime 
Fel'ow  and  Tutor  of  Oriel  College  (see  24),  for  perpetuating 
academical  education  definitely  based  upon  the  principles  of 
the  Church  of  r-ngl.md,  and  with  the  intention  of  combining 
sober  living  and  high  culture  with  Christian  training.  Its 
appearance  strikes  one  as  very  uniike  that  of  the  other  colleges  ;  but  when  the 
glare  of  colour  is  toned  down  by  age  it  will  not  fear  comparison  with  its  older 
companions,  which  it  worthily  rivals,  both  in  area  and  number  of  students. 

The  superb  and  lofty  Chapel,  built  from  designs  by  Mr.  Butter- 
field,  at  the  cost  of  the  late  Mr.  W.  Gibbs  (over  ^*6o,ooo),  was 
solemnly  dedicated  on  St.  Mark's  Day,   25th  April,   1876.* 

The  interior  decorations  are  designed  to  illustrate,  in  some  sort  after  the 
manner  of  the  Christian  Year,  the  successive  dealings  of  God  with  His  Church, 
Patriarchal,  Jewish,  and  Christian.  They  bring  out  by  means  of  type  and  anti- 
type the  relationship  of  the  Old  to  the  New  Testament,  and  show  the  process  of 
God's  gradual  revelation  of  Himself  in  Christ.  The  history  of  Noah,  Abraham, 
Joseph,  and  Moses,  in  twelve  of  the  panels  of  the  W.  half  of  the  chapel,  with 
the  figures  of  the  twelve  minor  prophets  in  the  four  windows  above,  and  of  the 
four  greater  prophets  with  David,  Solomon,  Samuel,  and  Elijah  in  the  W. 
windows,  refer  to  the  earlier  dispensations.  A  series  of  events  from  the  New 
Testament, — the  Annunciation,  the  Nativity,  Baptism,  Crucifixion,  and  Resur- 
rection of  Our  Lord,  represented  in  mosaics,  is  placed  in  the  E.  half  of  the 
chapel  The  Ascension  of  Our  Lord  is  represented  in  the  glass  of  the  E.  window. 
The  series  is  continued  to  the  present  time  by  a  mosaic  panel  beneath  the  E. 
window,  which  represents  Our  Lord  as  He  revealed  Himself,  after  His  ascension, 
to  St.  John  in  the  Isle  of  Patmos,  "One  like  unto  the  Son  of  Man."  present  in 
His  Church  now  and  till  the  end  ;  the  Church  being  symbolised  by  seven  candle- 
sticks around  Him,  and  her  chief  ministers  by  seven  stars  in  His  right  hand. 
It  conveys  to  the  eye  the  promise  given  of  His  perpetual  presence.  Christian 
Saints  in  Mosaic  panels  on  either  side  support  this  figure  of  Our  Lord,  while  the 
Greek  and  Latin  -Doctors  are  represented  in  the  four  side  windows  above.  In 
the  transept  windows  are  central  figures  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  supported  by 
figures  ot  the  four  Evangelists.  At  the  W.  en  1  is  depicted  in  three  mosaic 
panels  the  Second  Coming  of  Our  Loid  to  Judgment,  enthroned  with  the 
apostles,  and  attended  by  angels  bearing  the  cross,  the  crown  of  thorns,  the 

*  The  Chapel  is  entered  through  a  small  cloister  at  its  W.  end,  and  is  open  free  daily 
from  10  till  12  and  from  2  till  5.30  ;  in  the  winter  months  it  closes  at  4  p.m. 


Keble  College.— The  Parks. 


19 


spear,  and  the  nails.  Lower  down,  in  the  centre,  St.  Michael  the  archangel 
divides  the  saved  on  ihe  Right  Hand  from  the  lost  on  the  Left  Hand  of  Our 
Lord.  At  the  foot  are  the  words,  "  Hereafter  ye  shall  see  the  Son  of  Man 
sitting  on  the  right  hand  of  power,  and  coming  in  the  clouds  of  heaven." 

The  range  of  buildings  opposite  the  Chapel  comprises  the 
Library  and  Dining  Hall,  opened  on  St.  Mark's  Day,  1878, 
the  first  stone  having  been  laid  on  the  same  day  in  1876. 

The  grand  staircase  is  lighted  by  a  handsome  oriel  window,  and  surmounted 
by  a  lofty  arched  roof.  The  Hall  and  Library  are  open  to  visitors  from  2  till 
4  p.m.  throughout  the  year ; 
in  Long  Vacation  they  are 
also  open  from  10  till  12. 
Tickets  (6^/.  each)  may 
be  obtained  of  the  porter. 
In  the  Library  is  Holman 
Hunt's  celebrated  picture. 
"The  Light  of  the  World," 
presented  to  the  college  by 
the  widow  of  the  late  Mr. 
Thomas  Combe,  and  valued 
at  ,£10,000.  The  Hall 
contains  a  fine  portrait  of 
Keble,  also  of  the  first 
Warden  (Rev.  E.  S.  Tal- 
bot), and  otheis. 

On  leaving  Keble  College 
the  vi.-itor  will  notice  the 
spacious  and  pleasantly  laid- 
out  grounds  of  the  Univer- 
sity Parks,  extending  N.  - 
and  E.  of  the  Museum  (9).  gateway  of  keble  college. 

This  vicinity  has  been  known  as  "  The  Parks"  from  the  time  of  the  Civil  War, 
when  the  parks  of  artillery  were  planted  here.  The  University  Cricket  and 
Football  Matches  are  played  in  the  Parks,  and  a  commodious  Pavilion  has  been 
erected  there  for  the  accommodation  of  spectators  Should  tim£  permit,  a  stroll 
through  the  Cherwell  Walk  called  "  Mesopotamia  "  will  reward  the  stranger 
with  views  of  the  towers  and  spires  of  Oxford  in  various  picturesque  groupings  ; 
and  Mansfield  College  (see  No.  75)  may  be  reached  by  a  road  turning  S. 
out  of  South  Parks-road.  Holywell  Church  and  Cemetery  (14^)  can  also  be 
visited  by  a  short  cut  shown  on  our  Plan. 

Retracing  our  steps  past  Wadham  (8),  and  crossing  Broad-street  at  its  E.  end 
by  the  new  Indian  Institute  (ja),  we  notice  at  the  corner  of  New  College  street 


20 


Alden'g  Oxford  Guide, 


Hertford  College.— New  College.  2l 

11.  Hertford  College,  founded  as  Hart  Hall  (Aula  Cerrina) 
by  Elias  de  Hertford  in  1284.  It  was  created  a  college  by  royal 
charter  in  1740,  but  enjoyed  only  a  brief  career;  and  in  1820, 
when  old  Magdalen  Hall*  was  destroyed  by  fire,  the  society  was 
removed  to  this  building,  which  then  took  the  name  of  Magdalen 
Hall.  In  1S74  the  original  title  "  Hertford  College  "*  was  restored 
by  Act  of  Parliament,  and  the  college  re-incorporated. 

In  recent  years  considerable  improvements  have  been  carried  out  The  two 
very  plain  wings  of  the  W.  front,  built  1S22,  in  the  s< -called  classic  taste 
then  prevalent,  have  been  connected  by  a  handsome  Entrance  (Gateway,  with 
new  Hall  and  other  apartments,  from  designs  by  Mr.  T.  G.  Tackson,  which 
impart  to  this  elevation  a  boldness  and  variety  of  outline  to  which  it  was  before 
a  stranger.  Some  remains  still  exist  of  the  original  Hart  Hall,  of  which  many 
eminent  men  were  members,  as  Tyndale  the  early  translator  of  the  New  Testa- 
ment, good  Sir  Matthew  Hale,  and  Charles  James  Fox.    The  lane  hard  by  leads  to 

12.  New  College,!  founded  June  30,  1379,  by  William  of 
Wykeham,  Bp.  of  Winchester,  and  built  on  a  plot  of  ground  in  the 
N.E.  angle  of  the  city,  the  fortified  wall  being  its  boundary  and 
defence.  It  was  opened  with  solemn  religious  ceremonial,  April 
14th,  1386  j  and  after  the  lapse  of  500  years  most  of  the  buildings 
remain  to  this  day  as  they  were  designed  by  the  munificent  founder.  % 

The  narrow  unpretending  entiance  may  be  a  little  disappointing.  ''Our 
forefathers  built  in  a  different  spirit  fioni  ourselves.  1  hey  connived  a  lowly 
portal,  reserving  their  best  attractions  for  the  interior;  and  well  did  they  know 
how  to  charm  the  soul  which  they  had  first  caused  to  enter  by  that  gate  of 
humility.  Let  not,  however,  the  exquisite  statues  of  the  Angel  Gabriel,  the 
Viigin,  and  the  founder  himself,  which  surmount  the  gateway,  pass  unnoticed." 
Once  inside  the  "  lowiy  portal,"  every  shade  oi  disappointment  vanishes. 

On  the  left  hand  stands  in  solid  majesty  the  glorious  Chapel, — 

its  massive  buttresses,  deep  mullioned  windows,  and  lofty  pinnacles, 

combining  to  impress  the  mind  with  admiring  awe.     Adjoining 

*  Formerly  adjoining  Magdalen  College  (17),  to  which  it  was  attached  by  the  founder, 
Bishop  Waynflete,  in  14&7. 
t  Originally  described  as  '■  St.  Mary's  College  of  Winchester  in  Oxenford." 
\  It  should  be  noted  that  the  upper  storey  of  the  areat  quadrangle  was  added  in  167s. 


22 


Aiders  Oxford  Guide. 


NEW  COLLEGE  CLOISTERS.  BELL  TOWER.  AND  CHAPEL  (W-  END)- 
RfyYodnzed  ftvm  Lung's  "  A'ofes  on  Otcford"  by  kind  permission  0/  Mnzrs,  Seets$>.&  Co. 


New  College.  23 


the  Chapel  at  its  E.  end  is  the  lofty  Dining  Hall,  completing  the 

N.   side  of  the  first  quadrangle.     In   the   distance,   beyond   the 

second  court,  we  get  a  glimpse  of  the  lovely  Gardens,  open  to  the 

public  daily.     These  will  be  seen  in  due  time  (see  page  24) ;  but 

now,  turning  to  the  left  at  the  N.W.  corner,  the  visitor  enters  the 

fine  old  Cloisters  (see  p.  22),  and  (again  to  quote  Dean  Burgon) 

"  .  .  .  .  dull  of  heart  must  he  be  if  thdr  religious  silence  and  solemn  beauty 
do  not  affect  him.  Many  an  interesting  inscription  awaits  him  litre,  on  the 
pavement  and  on  the  walls  '1  hen  let  the  Chapel  be  visited,  and  the  har- 
monious proportions  of  the  ante-chapel  from  the  entrance  at  the  S.W.  corner 
be  duly  recognised.  He  will  be  struck  by  the  venerable  remains  of  painted  glass 
coeval  with  the  founder,  and  with  the  ancient  brasses  that  strew  the  Moor." 

The  Chapel  is  open//**  from  n  till  i  and  from  2  till  4  (2  till 

3  on   Saturdays).     Full   choral   service   is   performed   here   daily 

(8  a.m. — 7.30  in  Summer  Term — and  5  p.m.  ;  Sundays,  9.30  a.m. 

and  5  p.m.),  open  to  the  public,  except  on  Sundays  in  term,  when 

an  order  from  the  Sub-Warden  is  required. 

The  great  W.  window  was  painted  in  1777  by  Jervais  from  designs  by  Sir 
Joshua  Reynolds  :  the  chief  picture  representing  the  Nativity,  and  the  lower 
range  of  figures  the  Christian  and  cardinal  Viitues  :  Faith,  Hope.  Charity; 
Temperance,  Fortitude,  Justice,  and  Prudence.  Parsing  into  the  Choir,  we 
notice  the  fine  windows  confining  in  their  upper  small  lights  the  original 
stained  glass  Of  the  larger  lights,  those  on  the  S.  side  are  believed  to  have 
been  designed  by  scholars  of  kuber.s,  and  were  repaired  in  1740  :  those  on  the 
N.  side,  containing  figures  of  Old  Testament  saints,  were  painted  in  1765-74 
in  a  much  inferior  style.  Extensive  restorations  and  alterations  of  thisChapelwere 
effected  in  1879-80  from  the  designs  of  the  late  Sir  G.  G.  .vcott.  The  plaster 
ceiling,  which  for  many  years  passed  muster  as  stone  vaulting,  was  replaced  by  a 
very  handsome  oak  roof  reding  on  the  original  corbels,  by  which  the  lolty  effect 
of  the  interior  is  greatly  enhanced.  The  canopy  work  of  the  Keredos  was  restored 
in  stone  from  the  design  of  one  of  the  original  canopies  ;  and  the  niches  are  now 
(1889-90  being  filled  in  with  statues.  1'he  sedilia  on  both  sides  are  also  restored. 
The  small  but  beauti  ul  alto-relievos  over  the  communion  table  are  by  West- 
macott.  One  of  the  most  noticeable  features  of  the  restoration  is  the  new  wood- 
work of  the  stalls  :  every  remnant  of  the  old  oak  has  be-n  cleaned  from  the 
paint  with  which  its  delicate  carving  had  become  encrusted  :  while  the  panelling 
and  cornice  above  the  stalls  are  new,  replacing  the  deal  and  plaster  of  last 


24 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


century.  The  organ-loft  is  almost  entirely  new  ;  and 
the  whole  of  the  carved  work  will  repay  close  ex- 
mination.  In  a  glazed  recess  behind  the  sedilia  on 
the  N  side  of  the  chapel  is  preserved  the  Founder's 
Pastoral  Stafff  exceedingly  elegant  in  form,  of  silver 
gilt,  exquisitely  wrought,  and  curiously  enamelled 
with  jewels,  one  of  the  most  gorgeous  relics  of  the 
kind  in  existence. 

The  Dining  Hall,  East  of  the  Chapel,  is 
reached  by  a  flight  of  steps  in  the  Muniment 
Tower.  It  was  well  restored  in  1866,  and  a  fine 
oak  roof  added,  by  the  late  Sir  G.  Gilbert  Scott. 

In  the  Hall  are  portraits  of  the  founder,  Bishops  Wayn- 
flete,  Ken,  Lo\Uh,  &c,  the  mo-t  recent  being  an  admir- 
able portrait  of  the  present  Warden  (Rev  Dr.  Sewell) 
painted  ly  Professor  Htrkomer ;  and  the  arms  of  founders 
and  benefactors  adorn  the  windows  and  wainscoting 
{c  1530)  Descending  the  stairs,  and  turning  to  the  left 
undei  the  Library  through  another  vaulted  archway,  we 
cross  the  Garden  Court  (1684)  and  enter  the  charming 

Gardens,  which  are  seen  to  best  advantage 
in  early  summer, 
when  the  chestnuts 
blossom  in  all  their 
beauty,  and  the  clus- 
tering foliage  of  the 
central  "  mount " 
shows  its  many- 
shaded  greeny  or  in 
the  autumn,  when 
rich  tints  abound, 
and  the  luxuriant 
creepers  clothe  the 


FTBwEcoSLLRBoi:ER'walls  with  crimion. 


FOUNDED  S  J?WEL, 
NBW  COLLEGE. 


St.  Peter's-in-the-East  Church.  26 

f  The  Gardens  are  bounded  on  the  N.  and  E.  by  the  only  perfect  remnant  of  the 
Old  City  Wall.  *  Its  bastions  and  parapets,  and  the  walks  along  its  battlements, 
remain  a>  they  were  in  the  Civil  Wars,  an  interesting  relic  of  the  olden  time. 
On  the  opposite  side  is  seen  the  venerable  church  of  St.  r'eter-in-the-Ea>t  (13). 
We  leave  the  gardens  by  a  path  at  the  N.W.  corner,  between  the  college  and 
the  City  Wall,  and  pass  through  its  hoary  portal  into  a  New  Quadrangle,  with 
terrace- walk.  Here  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  massive  Belfry-  Tower,  as  well 
as  of  the  old  fortifications  on  which  the  N  transept  of  the  chapel  has  been  grafted. 
Facing  these  ancient  bulwarks  is  a  handsome  range  of  New  Buildings,  erected 
1872-6,  from  designs  by  Sir  G  G  Scott  :  and,  further  eastward,  are  still  more 
recent  additions  (1886-7),  designed  in  excellent  taste  by  Mr.  Basil  Champneys. 

In  the  Warden's  Library  are  preserved  many  interesting  and  valuable  relics 
of  the  Founder  :  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  of  them  is  the  Jewel  represented  on 
page  24,  which  was  used  as  a  clasp  or  brooch  for  fastening  his  episcopal  vest- 
ments. This  jewel  is  in  the  form  of  the  initial  M,  crowned,  of  silver  gilt,  set 
with  rubies,  emeralds,  and  pearls  ;  the  two  exquisitely  modelled  figures  repre- 
senting the  Annunciation. 

Belore  quitting  the  precincts  of  this  superb  foundation,  we  may  mention 
among  the  eminent  names  connected  with  it,  Archbishop  Chichele,  founder  of 
All  Souls  (19  ,  Bishop  Waynflete.  founder  of  Magdalen  (17),  the  saintly  Bishop 
Ken,  Dr  James,  the  first  librarian  of  the  Bodleian  v6^,  and  Sidney  Smith. 

Pa>sing  through  a  deeply  recessed  and  richly  moulded  arch  in  the  City  Wall, 
we  find  ourselves  again  in  the  original  Quadrangle.  Leaving  this  by  the  gate 
at  which  we  entered,  we  turn  to  our  left  under  a  grim  old  archway  of  the  17th 
century,  and,  noticing  on  the  right  a  picturesque  cluster  of  academic  buildings 
(All  Souls,  19),  follow  the  zigzag  course  of  the  lane  till  we  reach 

13.  St.  Peter's-in-the-East  Church,  one  of  the  most 
ancient  and  interesting  churches  in  the  city.  The  fine  Norman 
Crypt  appears  to  be  of  earlier  date  than  the  chancel  over  it  (c.  1150). 
The  beautiful  reredos  of  alabaster  and  mosaic  is  by  Mr.  T.  G. 
Jackson,  1888.  The  nave  retains  on  the  S.  side  and  at  the  W. 
end  its  original  Norman  wall  up  to  a  certain  height ;  but  great 
alterations  were  made  at  a  later  date,  commencing  on  the  N.  side 
in  the  latter  half  of  the  13th  century.  The  S.  doorway  is  a  rich 
specimen  of  Norman  work,  obscured  by  the  porch  with  an  upper 
storey,  characteristic  of  the  fifteenth  century.  Adjoining  the 
churchyard  gate  is 

*  See  the  Note  on  "  OW  Oxford,"  appended  to  our  Shilling  edition. 


26  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

~"~j       13a.  St.  Edmund  Hall,  founded  in  1226  by 

Edmund   Rich,   afterwards  Archbp.   of  Canterbury, 

Wi  r.-<j    ar>d   known   as   St.    Edmund;    refounded    in    1559. 

\fePV    The  existing  buildings  are  not  older  than  the  17th 

\>^        century,  and  present  no  features  of  special  interest. 

arms  of  By  a  small  doorway  opposite,  we  pass  into 

S.  EDMUND  HALL.  J  lr  l 

14.  Queen's  College,  so  named  in  honour  of  Edward  III.'s 
Queen  Philippa,  and  founded  in  1340  by  Robert  de  Eglesfield, 
her  chaplain,  "  to  the  honour  of  God,  the  profit  and  furtherance 
of  the  Church,  and  the  salvation  of  souls,"  and  for  the  special 
benefit  of  Cumberland  and  Westmoreland. 

The  present  buildings  were  erected  at  the  close  of  the  17th  century ;  and  the 
High  street  front,  wilh  its  unique  and  elegant  cupola  surmounting  a  statue  of 
Queen  Caroline,  consort  of  George  II.,  was  completed  after  liawksmoor's 
designs  in  1756.  The  \V.  wing,  which  suffered  severely  by  a  disastrous  fire  in 
1886,  has  since  been  thoroughly  restored. 

In  the  Chapel,  a  massive  structure  in  the  classic  style  (17 14), 
are  preserved  some  curious  stained  windows  from  the  old  chapel, 
by  Van  Linge  (1635).  The  ceiling,  representing  the  Ascension, 
was  painted  by  Thornhill,  and  the  altar-piece  is  a  copy  of  Correggio's 
"  Night."  The  screen,  marble  columns,  Provost's  seat,  and  great 
Organ,  are  specially  worthy  of  notice. 

The  Library,  in  the  second  quadrangle,  is  one  of  the  most  ex- 
extensive  in  the  University.  It  is  a  large  handsome  building, 
containing  more  than  60,000  volumes,  and  some  original  portraits  ; 
among  them  Henry  V.  as  Prince  of  Wales,  and  his  uncle  Cardinal 
Beaufort.     The  garden  front  is  adorned  with  eight  statues. 

The  Hall,  nearly  adjoining,  is  a  fine  lofty  room,  designed  by 
Sir  Christopher  Wren  :  it  contains  many  good  portraits  of  royal 
and  other  benefactors.  In  the  Buttery  is  preserved  a  drinking-horn 
presented  by  Queen  Philippa,  and  other  curiosities  worth  inspection. 


New  Examination  Schools.  21 

The  members  of  this  college  have  from  time  immemorial  been  daily  sum- 
moned to  dine  in  hall  by  sound  of  trumpet,  instead  of  by  the  chiming  of  a  bell 
as  elsewhere.  Here,  too,  is  observed  on  every  Christmas  day  the  ancient 
ceremony  of  ushering  in  the  Boar  s  Head  with  the  singing  of  a  carol.  This  was 
a  common  custom  in  the  North  of  England,  with  which  Queen's  has  always 
been  connected  ;  but  tradition  says  that  it  commemorates  the  deliverance  of  a 
student  of  the  college,  who  while  walking  in  the  country,  studying  Aristotle, 
was  attacked  by  a  wild  boar  from  Shotover  Forest  ;  upon  which  he  crammed 
the  philosopher  down  the  throat  of  the  brute,  and  thus  escaped  the  threatened 
peril.  There  is  another  singular  old  ceremonial  observed  at  Queen's  College 
on  New  Year's  Day  :  the  Bursar  presents  to  each  member  or  guest  a  needle 
and  thread,  with  the  words,  "  Take  this  and  be  thrifty."  The  custom  is  sup- 
posed to  be  derived  from  a  somewhat  fanciful  rebus  on  the  name  of  the  founder, 
Eglesfield  (aiguille  etfil).  The  early  English  Reformer,  John  Wycliffe  (see  60), 
was  one  of  the  first  members  of  this  college  ;  and  from  his  time  to  the  present 
many  eminent  men  have  studied  here,  including  princes,  poets,  antiquaries,  and 
divines  :  among  the  former,  Edward  the  Black  Prince  and  Henry  V. 

Leaving  Queen's  College  by  its  principal  entrance,  we  turn  to  the  left  and 
walk  down  the  High-street  towards  Magdalen  (17).  Nearly  opposite  us,  on  the 
site  of  the  Angel  Hotel,  famous  in  old  coaching  clays,  are  the  extensive 

14#.  New  Examination  Schools  for  the  University. 
Opened  1S82  :  cost  about  ^100,000.  Open  to  visitors  from  9 
till  4,  fee  $d.  The  design,  a  picturesque  combination  of  late 
Gothic  and  Renaissance,  affords  an  excellent  example  of  Mr.  T.  G. 
Jackson's  work.  Our  illustration  (p.  28)  shows  the  N.  front,  facing 
High  street.  It  comprises  a  grand  Entrance  Hall,  from  which 
there  are  approaches  to  the  spacious  Examination  Rooms,  which 
occupy  the  upper  floor  of  the  quadrangle. 

These  magnificent  apartments  were  first  utilised  for  the  purposes  of  public 
assembly  rooms  on  the  first  of  May,  1S83.  when  H.R.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales 
attended  a  concert  and  conversazione  in  aid  of  the  Royal  College  of  Music. 
The  mosaic  flooring  of  the  entrance  hall,  the  choice  marble  columns  of  the 
vestibules,  and  the  gorgeous  Grand  Staircase,  as  well  as  the  decorative  carving 
throughout,  will  repay  careful  examination.  Over  the  entrance  portico  are  two 
panels  carved  in  relief,  representing  the  examination  of  an  undergraduate,  and 
the  ceremony  of  conferring  a  degree. 

The  E.  front  is  now  completed ;  the  clock  tower  is  a  strikingly 

original  composition,  and  the  whole  building,  seen  from  the  corner 


Magdalen  School.— Botanic  Gardens.  29 

of  King  street,  is  very  effective.  The  picturesque  gabled  house  at 
the  E.  end  of  the  principal  front  was  added  in  1888  to  provide 
rooms  for  the  Delegacy  of  Non-Collegiate  students. 

Close  by  stood  formerly  the  East  Gate  of  the  City  ;  and  just  opposite  is  Long- 
Will-street,  bounded  on  one  side  by  an  embattled  wall  enclosing  the  fine  elms 
of  Magdalen  Grove  (see  page  32). 

[Should  the  visitor  have  time  to  pursue  this  direction  a  short  distance,  he 
will  be  gratified  by  an  inspection  of  the  ancient  Church  and  picturesque 
Cemetery  of  Holy  Cross,  Holywell  (14^).  The  foundation  of  the  Church 
is  of  remote  antiquitv,  but  the  chancel  arch  is  the  only  remaining  evidence  of 
its  date.  N.  of  the  church  is  the  Oxford  Penitentiary,  occupying  part  of  the 
old  manor-house,  with  additional  buildings.  Thence  a  newly  laid-out  road  leads 
W.  to  Mansfield  Coll.  (75)  and  to  the  Park  and  Walks  mentioned  on  page  19.] 

At  the  corner  is  a  modern  structure  in  the  Perpendicular  style, 

15.  Magdalen  College  School,  founded  1480,  as  a  Gram- 
mar School  in  connection  with  the  college  and  University,  The 
present  room  was  built  in  185  1,  from  Mr.  J.  C.  Buckler's  designs. 

The  new  buildings  of  Magdalen  now  connect  the  school  with  the  older  portion 
of  the  college,  which  we  shall  presently  visit  (see  17)  ;  but  now,  crossing  the 
road  a  few  yards  farther  on,  and  descending  some  stone  steps,  we  enter  the 

16.  Botanic  Gardens  (open/ra?  till  dusk),  by  a  handsome 
Gateway  designed  by  Inigo  Jones  in  rusticated  Italian  style,  and 
bearing  statues  of  Charles  I.  and  II. 

These  Gardens,  founded  by  the  Earl  of  Danby  in  1632,  "with  a  view 
especially  to  the  faculty  of  medicine,"  occupy  five  acres  of  ground,  appropriated 
in  1231  for  use  as  a  Jews'  Burying  Ground,*  in  lieu  of  a  neighbouring  piece 
formerly  used  by  them,  but  granted  by  a  charter  of  King  Henry  III.  as  a  site 
for  the  Hospital  of  St.  John,  afterwards  Magdalen  College  (17).  They  are 
furnished  with  many  rare  herbaceous  and  aquatic  plants,  indigenous  and  exotic  ; 
and  contain  several  conservatories  and  aquaria,  with  a  library  and  lecture  rooms 
for  the  Professor  of  Botany.     John  Tradescant  (see  2)  was  the  first  gardener  here. 

The  pleasant  walk  on  the  bank  of  the  Cherwell  leads  to  a  gate  conducting 
into  Merton  Fields  and  Christ  Church  Meadow.  As  we  purpose  visiting  these 
hereafter  (see  nos.  28  32),  we  now  return  to  the  High-street  entrance;  noticing 
on  our  way  the  fine  proportions  of  Magdalen  Tower,  which  directly  faces  us. 

*  A  very  large  number  of  Jews  were  resident  in  Oxford  in  mediaeval  times,  but  they 
were  expelled  at  the  end  of  the  13th  century. 


30 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


MAGDALEN  COLLEGE,  FROM  THE  BRIDGE 


Magdalen  College  and  Bridge.  31 

It  will  be  well  worth  while  to  get  a  good  general  view  of  the  exterior  of 
Magdalen  College  before  proceeding  to  a  closer  inspection  :  and  this  we  shall 
best  do  by  walking  a  few  paces  to  the  right,  on  to 

Magdalen   Bridge,  which  here  spans  two  branches  of  the 

Cherwell,  a  tributary  of  the  Thames,  and  was  in  former  days  the 

entrance  to  Oxford  by  coach  from  London.* 

Magdalen  Rridge  (built  in  1 779)  was  widened  in  18S2-J  from  the  designs 
of  Mr.  W.  H.  White,  M.  Inst.  C.E.,  Engineer  to  the  Oxford  Corporation. 
The  width  of  the  old  bridge  was  26  ft.  6  in.  in-ide  the  parapets,  with  a 
carriage-way  of  18  ft.  The  width  of  the  added  portion  is  20  ft.,  making 
the  present  width  46  ft.  6  in.  inside  the  parapets,  with  a  carriage-way  of  32  ft. 
The  new  S  W.  elevation  is  an  exact  copy  of  the  original  masonry  ;  so  that  the 
beauties  of  the  bridge  are  retained,  and  greatly  enhanced  by  its  improved  propor- 
tions, while  the  widening  has  opened  up  a  view  of  the  High-street  front  of 
Magdalen  College  which  could  not  be  seen  from  the  old  na-row  structure.  Paus- 
ing nbout  half-way  across,  let  us  turn  to  admire  this  unequalled  view.  "  Magdalen 
College,"  said  Lord  Macaulay,  "is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  of  our  academical 
institutions.  Its  graceful  tower  catches,  afar  off,  the  eye  of  the  traveller  who 
comes  by  road  from  London.  As  he  approaches,  he  rinds  that  this  tower  rises 
from  an  embattled  pile,  low  and  irregular,  yet  singularly  venerable,  which,  em- 
bowered in  veidure,  overhangs  the  sluggish  waters  of  the  Cherwell."  Here,  too, 
we  get  some  lovely  glimpses  of  river  scenery  and  wooded  landscape  :  on  one  side 
the  Botanic  Gardens,  whose  rich  and  varied  foliage  forms  a  charming  setting  to 
the  towers  and  spires  beyond  :  on  the  other  side  the  Water  Walks  of  Magdalen 
(p.  36) ;  whi'e  across  a  level  and  verdant  meadow  is  seen  the  parish  church  of  St. 
Clement,  built  in  1827,  in  place  of  the  old  church  which  formerly  stood  at  the 
S.E.  end  of  th^  bridge,  where  the  grave-yard  -till  remains.  On  the  high  ground 
behind  the  church  is  Headington  Hill  Hall,  the  seat  of  G.  H.  Morrell,  Esq.; 
and  at  the  further  end  of  the  bridge  is  Turrell's  Hall,  under  the  care  of  the 
Rev.  H.  J.  Turrell,  M.A.f     Leaving  ihe  Bridge,  we  retrace  our  steps  towards 

17.  St.  Mary  Magdalen  College,  founded  1458  by  William 

of  Waynflete;  built  147581.   In  1448,  the  founder  gathered  together 
a  body  of  students  in  the  High-street,  probably  where  the  New 

¥  Our  illustration  is  from  a  photograph  taken  before  the  widening  of  the  bridge. 
A  view  of  Magdalen  College  and  Bri.;  -  the  Cherwell,  is  on  p.  35. 

♦  In  the  populous  suburbs  beyond  the  bridge  are  the  Churches  of  St.  Clement  and  Cowley 
St.  John,  the  new  Church  and  Cemetery  of  SS.  Mary  ami  John,  the  Mission  House  of  the 
Society  of  St.  John  the  Evangelist;  St.  Ignatius  (R.C.),  and  several  Nonconformist  ChaDels. 
an  Almshouse,  The  House  ot  Charity  of  the  Sisters  of  Nazareth  (R.C.},  the  Ho-pital  for 
Incurables,  the  Lnion  Workhouse,  and  the  College  Cricket  Grounds.  On  the  heights  of 
Bullingdon,  about  two  miles  by  the  middle  (Cowley)  road,  are  the  Barracks,  &c,  of  the 
Military  DtpOt,  and  the  Royal  Military  College,  Cowley. 


32 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


Schools  now  stand.  Ten  years  afterwards,  having  obtained  the  site 
of  an  ancient  Hospital  of  St.  John,  he  removed  his  society  to  the 
present  spot.     The  majestic  Tower,  built  some  fifty  years  later,  has 

been  erroneously  attributed  to 
Wolsey,  who  was  bursar  at  the 
time  :  it  is  150  feet  high,  and  con- 
tains a  musical  'ring'  of  ten  bells. 

The  college  buildings  now  form  four 
quadrangles,  covering  an  area  ol  about 
twelve  acres  ;  its  grounds  occupy  nearly 
one  hundred  acres,  comprising  lawns 
and  gardens,  the  shaded  Water  Walks 
beloved  by  Addison,  and  the  Grove, 
"dainty  relic  of  monastic  days,"  where, 
within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  High  street 
of  the  city,  deer  are  quietly  browsing 
under  huge  old  elms  with  their  cawing 
rooks,  as  though  the  haunts  of  men  were 
distant  and  forgotten. 

As  we  approach  the  college,  we  shall 
admire  the  good  taste  displayed  in  the 
important  additions  recently  completed 
by  Messrs.  Bodley  and  Garner,  forming 
the  Quadrangle  of  St  Sivithun.'va  admir- 
able harmony  with  the  ancient  buildings. 

We  enter  Magdalen  through  the 
new  porter's  lodge,  adjoining  the 
new  Entrance  Gate,  and  find  our- 
selves in  the  old  Quadrangle  of 
St.  John  Baptist. 

In  its  S.E.  coiner  is  a  curious  ancient 
Pulpit  of  stone,  from  which  a  sermon 
open-air  pulpit,  m«GDalen.  was  formerly  delivered  annually  on  St. 
John  Baptist's  Day  to  a  congregation  assembled  in  the  quadrangle,  the  ground 
being  strewn  with  rushes  and'  gra-s,  and  the  buildings  dressed  with  green  boughs, 
in  commemoration  of  the  preaching  of  the  Baptist  in  the  Wilderness.  The 
custom  fell  into  disuse  about  1750,  and  the  sermon  is  now  preached  in  the  Chapel. 


St.  Mary  Magdalen  College. 


33 


1890.] 


34 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


The  W.  doorway  of  the  Chapel  is  of  extremely  beautiful  design,  quite  without 
precedent.  Over  it,  in  niches,  are  the  figures  of  St.  John  Baptist,  St.  Mary 
Magdalen,  St.  Swithun,  Edward  IV.,  and  the  founder.  Next  is  the  Muniment 
Tower,  in  which  the  archives  are  preserved.  Further  to  the  left  is  the  Great 
Gate  of  the  College,  usually  called  the  Founder's  Toiver,  adorned  with  statues 
of  St.  Mary  Magdalen,  St.  John,  Henry  III.,  and  the  founder.  It  contains  on 
its  first  floor  a  magnificent  state  banqueting-room,  lighted  at  each  end  by  a  grand 
oriel  window.   This  apartment  was  restored  and  richly  decorated  in  the  mediaeval 

style,  and  two  state  bedrooms 
furnished  throughout  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  date  of  the 
building,  under  the  direction 
of  the  late  Sir  G.  G.  Scott. 
Adjoining  are  the  President's 
lodgings,  rebuilt  in  1888-9, 
from  designs  by  Messrs.  Bod- 
ley  and  Garner,  who  have 
with  much  good  taste  incor- 
porated with  their  new  build- 
ings a  picturesque  remnant  of 
old  Magdalen  Hall  (see  II). 

The  Chapel  (open 

'  free   daily,   from    1 1    to 

►   12.30)  is  entered  under 

4  the     Muniment    Tower 

by  a  door  to  the  right. 

It  was  completed  in  14S0, 
on  the  usual  T-shaped 
ground-plan,  forming  an 
ante-chapel  and  choir, 
separated  from  each  other 
by  the  organ  screen.  The 
public  are  admitted  to  the 
daily  Services  free  on  week- 
days at  10  a.m.  and  to  the 


DOOR    OF    CHAPEL,    MAGDALEN 


COLLEGE. 

ante-chapel  only  at  6  p.m.  On  Sundays  and  on  other  occasions  it  is  necessary 
to  procure  on  order  for  admission  to  the  chapel.  There  is  a  large  and  well- 
trained  choir  ;  one  of  the  special  provisions  of  the  founder  having  been  that 
even  in  the  event  of  a  diminution  of  the  society's  revenues  the  staff  of  chaplains 
and  choristers  should  always  be  kept  up  to  its  full  strength.     On  the  N.  side  of 

*  Reproduced  from  an  etching  by  Alfred  Slocombe,  by  kind  permission. 


St.  Mary  Magdalen  College. 


35 


ten'.:  ZOiitlii'--^ 


MAGDALEN  COLLEGE  and  BRIDGE,  from  the  CHERWELL. 
Reproduced  by  permission  of  Messrs.  Cassell  &  Co. 


36  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


the  altar  a  small  chapel  has  been  restored  to  receive  the  tomb  of  Richard  Patten, 
father  of  the  founder,  William  of  Waynflete.  The  canopied  niches  of  the  Reredos 
were  filled  with  statues  in  1864-5.  The  altar-piece,  "Christ  bearing  His  Cross," 
is  ascribed  to  Ribalta,  a  Spaniard.  The  choir  windows  are  now  filled  with 
stained  glass  by  Hardman,  thegiftof  Lord  Selborne,  who  wasformerlya  Fellow  of 
the  college  ;  and  the  designs  in  chiar-oscuro,  removed  to  the  choir  in  1740,  are 
now  restored  to  their  original  positions  in  the  ante-chapel.  In  the  great  W. 
window,  originally  consisting  of  seven  lights,  is  a  large  chiar-oscuro,  after 
Christopher  Schwartz,  representing  the  Last  Judgment. 

Leaving  the  Chapel  and  keeping  to  the  right,  we  follow  the  course 

of  the  Cloisters  till  we  reach  the  staircase  to  the  Dining  Hall. 

The  Hall  contains  some  handsome  oak  panelling,  with  several  curiously 
carved  figures  at  the  W.  end  (dated  1541),  representing  scenes  in  the  life  of  St. 
Mary  Magdalen.  In  the  Hall  are  also  a  choice  painting  of  the  Magdalene, 
and  among  others  portraits  of  the  Founder,  Bp.  Fox,  founder  of  Corpus  Christi 
(25),  Prince  Henry,  Prince  Rupert,  Bp.  Hough,  Bp.  Philpotts,  Lord  Selborne, 
and  the  late  venerable  president,  Dr.  Routh,  by  Pickersgill. 

The  Kitchen,  near  the  foot  of  the  Hall  staircase,  is  a  spacious  detached 
building,  with  lofty  wooden  roof.  It  is  of  great  antiquity,  and  probably  was  the 
original  kitchen  of  the  Hospital  of  St.  John  Baptist. 

Passing  along  the  Cloisters,  the  visitor  will  be  impressed  with  the  splendour 
of  the  architectural  group  formed  by  the  Chapel  and  Hall,  backed  by  the 
matchless  Bell-Tower ;  and,  at  right  angles  therewith,  the  Gateway  Tower 
before  noticed,  unrivalled  in  the  beauty  of  its  design,  and  marvellously 
picturesque  in  its  garment  of  clinging  foliage  (see  page  33).  No  cloister  now 
remaining  in  England  can  compare  with  this.  The  quaint  allegorical  statues 
on  the  buttresses  (date  dr.  1509)  will  repay  examination. 

The  Library  occupies  the  west  side  of  the  great  quadrangle,  over  the  clois- 
ters. It  contains  a  large  collection  of  books  and  valuable  illuminated  MSS. — a 
copy  of  St.  Chrysostom's  works  in  Greek  of  the  nth  century  ;  also  some  rare 
examples  of  early  printing,  including  Caxton's  "Boethius,"  and  a  "  Comment, 
in  Arist.  de  Anima,"  printed  at  Oxford  in  1481  by  Theodoric  Rood  of  Cologne. 

Leaving  the  Cloisters  by  a  passage  on  the  N.  side,  we  have  before 
us — across  a  fine  lawn,  edged  with  flower-beds — the  New  Buildings, 
1 733 ;  on  our  left  we  see  a  portion  of  the  Grove  or  deer-park; 
and  on  our  right  are  the  Water  Walks,  open  free  to  the  public. 

Old  Antony  a  Wood  quaintly  extols  these  "pleasant  meanders  shadowed  with 
trees.  At  some  times  of  the  year,''  says  he,  "you  will  find  them  as  delectable 
as  the  banks  of  the  Eurotas,  where  Apollo  himself  was  wont  to  walk  and  sing 
his  lays. "     Entering  these  delightful  walks  by  a  stone  bridge  over  the  Cherwell, 


St.  Mary  Magdalen  College. 


37 


we  turn  to  the  left,  and  follow  the  pathway  until  we  reach  another  bridge  on  the 
left  leading  to  the  deer-park,  from  which  is  to  be  seen  an  old  water-mill,  now 
modernized  into  a  dwelling-house.  Here  the  path  turns  sharply  to  the  right, 
and  a  few  more  steps  will  bring  us  into  the  delightlul  avenue  still  known  as 

Addison's  Walk,  said   to    have  been  a  favourite   resort  of 
that  eminent  "man 
of  letters  "  when  at 
Magdalen. 

If  time  permit,  the 
visitor  will  do  well  to 
complete  the  circuit  of 
the  meadow.  11  not, 
he  can  from  this  point 
retrace  his  steps  to 
the  Cloisters. 

Not  withstanding  the 
heavy  requisitions 
levied  by  Charles  I. 
during  the  Civil  War, 
a  few  interesting  arti- 
cles ol  gold  and  silver 
plate  remain  in  pos- 
session of  the  college. 
Among  the.^e  is  the 
Founder's  cup,  and  a 
grace-cup,  presented 
on  the  restoration  of 
the  Fellows  who  had 
been  ejected  in  the 
time  of  James  II. 
when  a  Roman  Catho- 
lic President  was 
forced  on  the  college. 
The  incident  is  illus- 
trated in  one  of  the 
frescoes  in  the  Houses 
of  Parliament.      Bp.  addison's  walk. 

Hough,  whose  portrait  is  in  the  Hall,  was  the  President  who  resisted  the 
King's  arbitraiy  demand.  A  curious  ceremony  annually  observed  at  Magdalen 
College  is  represented  in  our  Frontispiece.  Every  May-day  morning,  at  five 
o'clock,  a  Latin  hymn  to  the  Holy  Trinity  is  sung  on  the  summit  of  the 
Tower  by  the  choir  habited  in  their  surplices.     This  custom  is  commonly  said 


207869 


38  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

to  have  been  substituted  for  a  mass  anciently  performed  for  the  soul  of  King 
Henry  VII.,  but  is  probably,  like  other  May-day  usages,  a  relic  of  Pagan  times. 
The  hymn  now  sung  is  taken  from  the  College  grace,  and  is  in  no  way  connected 
with  the  annual  commemoration  of  Henry  VII.  in  the  chapel  on  the  same  day. 
The  words  of  the  hymn  in  Latin  and  English,  together  with  a  beautiful  descriptive 
poem  by  Dean  Burgon,  are  published  in  a  neat  form  at  the  office  of  this  Guide. 

After  thus  exploring  the  beauties  and  antiquities  of  Magdalen 
College,  the  visitor  will  be  inclined  to  agree  with  a  modern  writer 
that  it  is  "  perhaps  on  the  whole  the  most  beautiful,  certainly  the 
most  enjoyable,  place,  not  in  Oxford  only,  but  in  England." 

Returning  up  the  High  Street,  on  the  same  side  of  the  way,  we 

cannot  fail  to  be  impressed  at  every  step  by  the  ever-changing 

scene,  as  the  street  in  its  graceful  curve  reveals  successive  beauties, 

until  at  Queen's  College  (14)  the  supreme  point  of  view  is  gained. 

"  The  visitor  here  beholds  the  finest  sweep  of  street  architecture  which  Europe 
can  exhibit.  Antwerp  may  have  quainter  pieces,  Edinburgh  more  striking 
blendings  of  art  with  nature,  Paris  and  London  may  show  grander  coups  cfctil, 
and  there  is  architecture  more  picturesque  in  Nuremburg  and  Frankfort.  But 
for  stately  beauty,  that  same  broad  curve  of  colleges,  enhanced  by  many  a  spire 
and  dome,  and  relieved  by  a  background  of  rich  foliage,  is  absolutely  without 
parallel.  Queen's  (14)  on  the  right,  of  fair  but  very  modern  appearance,  leads 
the  eye  along  to  the  charming  front  of  All  Souls  (19),  beyond  which  are  just 
visible  the  spiral  columns  of  St.  Mary's  (20)  ;  and  opposite  those  two  colleges 
ranges  a  long  castellated  facade,  its  dark-grey  contours  broken  by  oriel  windows, 
ind  the  bright  emerald  of  its  turfed  quadrangles  shining  out  of  two  massive 
gateways."  {Daily  Telegraph,  June,  1872)     That  ancient  edifice  is 

18.  University  College.  No  other  college  has  so  vener- 
able a  look;  albeit,  to  tell  the  truth,  the  appearance  is  due  rather 
to  the  soft  oolitic  stone  of  which  the  college  was  built  than  to  the 
actual  antiquity  of  its  existing  portions.  University  College,  as  it 
now  stands,  was  erected  between  1634  and  1675,  in  that  stormy 
period  when  King  Charles  I.  was  holding  his  broken  Parliament 
in  the  city,  and  the  University  was  melting  down  its  plate  to  coin 
money  for  his  losing  cause.     But,  as  a  college!  its  origin  is  far  more 


University  College.  39 


ancient ;  and  tradition  ascribes  to  King  Alfred  the  first  establish- 
ment of  a  University  Hall  upon  that  very  spot. 

Although  this  tradition  has  been  sanctioned  by  a  legal  decision,  and  the 
alleged  millenary  of  the  foundation  of  the  college  was  celebrated  in  1872  by  a 
grand  banquet,  yet  the  theory  is  now  generally  abandoned  as  mythical.  The 
facts  are  thus  summarised  by  a  trustworthy  writer  in  the  Saturday  Review: — 
•*  Tae  history  of  Oxford  begins  in  the  tenth  century  ;  in  the  eleventh  it  was  a 
place  of  the  rirst  importance  as  a  military  post,  and  as  the  scene  of  great  national 
gatherings.  But  it  is  not  till  the  twelfth  that  we  get  the  first  hints  of  the  coming 
University,  the  first  glimpses  of  schools,  scholars,  and  lectures  ;  and  it  is  not 
till  the  thirteenth  that  we  get  our  first  glimpses  of  anything  like  colleges  in  the 
modern  sense.  In  that  age  too  comes,  not  indeed  University  College,  but  the 
benefaction  out  of  which  University  College  grew."  The  first  mention  of  a  royal 
foundation  in  the  college  documents  occurs  in  a  petition  written  in  Norman- 
French,  and  addressed  to  King  Richard  II.  by  "your  poor  petitioners  the 
Master  and  Scholars  of  your  College  called  '  Universite  Hall,  in  Oxenford,' 
which  College  was  first  founded  by  your  noble  progenitor,  King  Alfred  (whom 
God  absolve),  for  the  maintenance  of  twenty-four  '  Uivinis  Perpetuels.' "  The 
firs:  historical  endowment  of  the  college  dates  from  1249.  In  that  year  William, 
Archdeacon  of  Durham,  bequeathed  310  marks  to  the  Chancellor,  Masters,  and 
Scholars  of  the  University,  for  the  endowment  of  masterships.  Several  ancient 
Schools  or  Halls  were  in  course  of  time  acquired  (see  22),  and  early  in  the 
fourteenth  century  the  society  found  a  local  habitation  on  the  present  site,  its 
title  then  being  "  Great  "  or  "  Mickle  University  Hall."  In  the  next  century  the 
title  "The  Universite  Colledge  "  became  frequent.  The  college  has  been  rebuilt 
and  enlarged  during  subsequent  ages,  the  present  buildings  dating  from  1634-75. 

The  first  (E.)  gateway  leads  into  a  small  quadrangle,  under  a 

tower  bearing  on  the  N.  side  a  statue  of  Mary,  Queen-consort  of 

William  III.,  and  on  the  S.  side  one  of  Dr.  RadclifTe  (see  21), 

who  erected  this  portion  of  the  edifice  at  his  own  expense,  and 

bequeathed  ;£6oo   per  annum  for   travelling  fellowships.     The 

second  gateway  tower  bears  statues  of  Queen  Anne  and  James  II.,* 

and  leads  to  the  Great  Quadrangle,  on  the  S.  side  of  which  is  the 

Chapel,  beautifully  renovated  and  improved  in  1862  by  Sir  G.  G. 

Scott,  but  still  retaining  the  quaint  cedar  wainscoting  and  oak 

screen.     Its  N.  and  S.  windows  are  by  Van  Linge,  1641.     The 

•  This  is  laid  to  be  the  only  statue  of  James  II.  in  England,  except  the  one  at  Whitehall. 


40 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


Hall  adjoining,  refitted  in  1766,  contains  some  good  portraits  of 
Lords  Eldon  and  Stowell,  and  other  eminent  members  of  the 
college.  The  Library  occupies  the  S.  side  of  the  new  quad., 
entered  from  behind  the  Hall.  It  was  built  in  1 860-1,  in  the 
Decorated  style  (Sir  G  G.  Scott,  architect)  to  supersede  the  old 
library,  which  was  situated   over  the  kitchen.     Statues  of  Lords 

Eldon  and  Stowell,  .formerly 

mms^  ^  Fellows  of  the  college,  oc- 

Kjjlk  cupy  a  conspicuous  position 

apt  [  A      Hjp^  at  the  W.  end  of  the  interior- 

Hi  In  the  Common  Room  are  curious 

-J3^  portraits  of  Henry  IV.  and  Dud- 

HlMB  If5F~        ley,  Earl  of  Leicester,  burnt  in 

fg^        wood  by  Mr.  Griffith  ;  also  busts 
HJfta  "'  king  Alfred  and  William  Pitt. 

In  the  grounds  to  the  rear,  a  house 
for  the  Master  has  recently  been 
built ;  also  a  new  tutorial  resi- 
dence adjoining  the  library,  1889. 
Re-entering  the  High-street, 
we  pass  a  block  of  building  at  the 
W.  extremity  of  the  front,  added 
in  1S43  from  a  design  by  the  late 
Sir  C.  Barry  ;  and  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  street  is 

19.  All  Souls  College, 
founded  in  1438  by  Henry 

all  souls  coll.  &  st  mary's  church.  Chichele,  of  Higham  Fer- 
rers, Northamptonshire,  one  of  the  original  Fellows  of  New  College 
(12),  afterwards  Abp.  of  Canterbury,  whose  statue,  with  that  of 
Henry  VI.,  adorns  the  tower  beneath  which  we  enter. 

It  is  styled  in  the  charter,  ''The  College  of  all  the  Souls  of  the  faithful 
departed,  and  especially  the  souls  of  Henry  V.,  King  of  England  and  France, 
and  of  the  faithful  subjects  of  the  realm  who  died  in  the  French  wars  ;"  and  was 
founded  for  one  warden,  forty  fellows,  two  chaplains,  three  clerks,  and  three 


All  Souls  College.  41 

choristers.  There  are  now  four  Bible-clerks,  who  are  the  only  undergraduates 
at  All  Souls  ;  the  fellowships  being  filled  up  by  election  from  other  colleges. 
By  the  founder's  statutes  preference  in  election  of  members  was  given  to  those 
candidates  who  should  prove  themselves  to  be  of  his  kin  ;  but  this  restriction 
has  been  abolished  ;  and  by  the  new  statutes  of  May,  1SS2,  provision  is  made 
for  fifty  fellowships,  of  which  several  are  tenable  only  in  connection  with  Uni- 
versity professorships  or  other  offices.  Chichele  spent,  beside  the  cost  of  the 
site,  a  sum  of  ^4,545  15.W  $d.  in  the  buildings  of  this  First  Quadrangle  and,  the 
original  refectory.  It  is  worthy  of  notice  that  this  quadrangle  retains  its  pristine 
features,  its  relative  proportions  never  having  been  altered  as  at  New  College 
(12)  by  the  addition  of  a  third  storey. 

On  the  N.  side  stands  the  Chapel,  a  good  specimen  of  late 
Perpendicular  work,  70  ft.  by  30  ft.,  entered  by  a  vaulted  porch  at 
the  N.W.  angle  of  the  quad.  It  is  open  free  to  visitors  daily  in 
Term,  from  12  till  1  and  2  till  4.  Four  of  the  windows  of  the  ante- 
chapel  contain  the  original  stained  glass  ;  the  great  W.  window  was 
filled  by  Hardman  in  1862;  those  in  the  choir  have  been  quite 
recently  added.  But  the  chief  glory  of  the  chapel  is  its  singularly 
beautiful  Reredos.  This  superb  adornment  of  the  E.  end  was 
walled  up  in  1664,  and  with  the  fine  wooden  roof  was  for  two 
centuries  concealed  by  lath  and  plaster ;  until,  a  restoration  of  the 
chapel  being  taken  in  hand  a  few  years  since,  the  reredos  was 
brought  to  light,  seriously  dilapidated,  it  is  true,  and  despoiled  of 
its  statues,  but  still  affording  sufficient  data  for  the  present  magnifi- 
cent work,  which  was  completed  in  1876  at  the  expense  of  the 
late  senior  Fellow  of  the  College,  Earl  Bathurst,  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  late  Sir  G.  Gilbert  Scott. 

It  comprises  36  statues  under  elaborately  carved  canopies,  and  nearly  100 
statuettes  (all  executed  by  Mr.  E.  Geflowski),  surrounding  and  surmounting  the 
principal  subject,  the  Crucifixion.  Beneath  are  three  richly  decorated  panels  in 
bas-relief  (by  Mr.  C.  E.  Kemp,  1889),  representing  the  Deposition,  the  En- 
tombment, and  the  Descent  into  Hades. 

Many    of   the    larger    statues    are  portraits   of   contemporary 

Fellows,   some    of   which    are    easily    recognisable.      We   give 


42  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

below  a  list  of  the  larger  figures,  in  order,  beginning  on  the  left- 
hand  side  of  the  bottom  row  : — 

Lower  Tier: — Earl  Bathurst  (the  restorer),  Catharine  of  France,  Henry  V., 
Margaret  of  Anjou,  Abp.Chichele  (founder). — The  Crucifixion. — Henry  VI. 
(co-founder),  Abp.  Warham,  John  of  Gaunt,  Bp.  Goldwell,  Cardinal  Beaufort. 

Second  Tier: — Edward  lJuke  of  York,  John  Talbot  Earl  of  Shrewsbury, 
Michael  dela  Pole  Earl  of  Suffolk,  John  Duke  of  Bedford. — St.  Jerome,  St. 
Gregory,  St.  John  Baptist,  St.  Ambrose,  St.  Augustine. — Thomas  Duke  of 
Clarence,  Humphrey  Duke  of  Gloucester,  An  Archer  (temp.  Hen.  V.),  Thomas 
Montacute  Earl  of  Salisbury. 

Third  Tier: — The  Twelve  Apostles,  with  St.  Michael  in  the  centre. 

Fourth  Tier: — Our  Lord  in  Glory,  with  two  attendant  angels;  on  His 
Right  Hand,  souls  saved  ;  on  His  Left  Hand,  souls  lost. 

Above  are  inscribed  the  words  "  Surgite  mortui,  venite  ad  judicium  "  (Arise, 
ye  dead,  and  come  to  Judgment!),  and  beneath,  over  the  altar-table,  "  Beati 
mortuiqui  in  Domino  moriuntur"  (Blessed  are  the  dead  which  die  in  the  Lord). 

The  floor  is  paved  with  Purbeck  and  Devonshire  marbles,  exqui- 
sitely inlaid  at  the  E.  end.  The  Hall,  E.  of  the  Chapel,  contains 
many  good  portraits  j  among  them  the  founder,  Henry  VI.,  Sir 
W.  Blackstone,  Abp.  Harcourt,  Bp.  Heber,  Lord  Salisbury,  &c 
A  small  archway  (facing  us  as  we  leave  the  Chapel)  leads  to  the 
Second  Quadrangle,  which,  in  spite  of  some  incongruities  of  style, 
affords  one  of  the  grandest  architectural  scenes  in  Oxford.  Let  us 
take  our  stand  at  the  foot  of  Hawksmoor's  twin  towers,  a  few  steps 
to  the  right,  and  enjoy  the  view.  Opposite  is  a  picturesque  cloister 
or  piazza,  with  entrance  gateway,  date  1734;  behind  which  rise 
majestically  the  dome  of  the  Radcliffe  (21)  and  the  beautiful  spire 
of  St.  Mary's  Church  (20).  On  the  left  extends  the  range  of  Hall  and 
Chapel,  and  facing  this  on  our  right,  occupying  the  whole  N.  side, 
is  the  Library,  200  ft.  in  length,  built  1716-60,  which,  though  of 
debased  design,  not  unfitly  completes  the  picture. 

This  library  was  founded  by  Col.  Codrington,  a  former  Fellow,  who  be- 
queathed books  of  the  value  of  ^6,000  and  a  sum  of  ^io.ooo.  It  contains 
more  than  50,000  volumes,  many  of  them  legal  works  ;  also  a  statue  of  its  found**- 


St.  Mary-the- Virgin's  Church.  43 

a  series  of  busts  of  eminent  Fellows,  and  a  singular  Planetarium,  kept  in  motion 
by  machinery.  The  Library  and  a  comfortable  modern  Reading-room  are  open 
for  study  to  persons  properly  recommended.  Among  the  celebrated  men  who 
have  been  Fellows  of  All  Souls,  may  be  mentioned  Linacre.  Sir  Anthony  Shirley, 
Abp.  Sheldon  (see  I),  Jeremy  Taylor,  Bp.  Tanner,  Sir  William  lUackstone 
(whose  monument  is  in  the  library),  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  Bp.  Heber,  and 
the  poet  Young. 

Leaving  All  Souls,  the  next  building  on  our  right  is  the  beautiful 
20.  Church  of  St.  Mary-the-Virgin.  The  Tower  is  a 
very  stately  structure  of  the  13th  century,  with  massive  buttresses 
at  the  angles ;  later  in  the  same  century  the  characteristics  of  the 
Early  Decorated  style  had  become  so  developed,  that  the  splendid 
pyramidal  group  of  turrets,  pinnacles,  and  windows,  crowned  by  the 
spire,  was  grafted  on  to  a  base  probably  prepared  for  a  less  ornate 
surmounting.  The  ball-flower  or  pomegranate  ornament  was  pro- 
fusely employed  in  honour  of  Eleanor  of  Castile,  mother  of  Edward 
II.,  in  whose  reign  the  spire  was  probably  completed.  It  was 
faithfully  restored  in  1861  by  Mr.  J.  C.  Buckler.  The  chapel  of 
Edward  II.'s  almoner,  Adam  de  Brome,  founder  of  Oriel  College 
(24),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  tower,  was  founded  at  the  same  time, 
but  considerably  altered  in  the  15th  century,  when  the  remainder  of 
the  edifice  was  rebuilt.  His  tomb,  despoiled  of  its  brasses,  remains. 
St  Mary's  is  the  University  Church,  and  besides  its  parish  services, 
the  University  sermons  are  preached  here  every  Sunday  during 
term-time,  all  clerical  members  of  the  University  of  certain  degrees 
taking  their  turns.  When  the  preacher  is  a  man  of  note  the  large 
galleries  are  crowded  with  undergraduates,  while  the  body  of  the 
church  is  filled  to  overflowing  with  the  "  dons  "  of  the  University 
and  a  general  congregation.  Men  of  the  most  diverse  character  and 
opinions  have  occupied  the  pulpit,  and  the  well-known  Bampton 
Lectures  are  regularly  delivered  here  by  divines  appointed  annually 


44  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


The  historical  and  biographical  associations  of  St.  Mary's  are 

of  great  interest,  and  strikingly  illustrate  the  important  part  taken 

by  Oxford  in  the  ecclesiastical  and  religious  life  of  the  nation. 

Here  John  Wycliffe,  "the  morning  star  of  the  Reformation"  (see 

60),  denounced  the  errors  and  abuses  of  his  day.     To  the  chancel 

of  this  church  Cranmer,  Ridley,  and  Latimer  were  cited  on  14th 

April,   1554,  for  a  disputation  with   the  doctors  of  Oxford  and 

Cambridge,   on   the   "presence,   substance,   and  sacrifice  of  the 

Sacrament;"  and  here,  on  Sept.  7th  in  the  following  year,  the 

same  prelates  were   brought   up   for  trial   before  a  commission 

appointed  by  Cardinal  Pole.     Hither  also,  on  21st  March,  1556, 

the  venerable  Archbishop  Cranmer  was  brought  for  the  purpose 

of  publicly  recanting  his  Protestant  opinions. 

The  account  given  by  Foxe  of  this  scene  is  full  of  painful  interest.  Cranmer 
had  been  brought  to  St.  Mary's  from  Bocardo  prison  (see  page  1).  The  pro- 
cession of  the  mayor  and  aldermen,  followed  by  Cranmer  between  two  friars,  is 
described  minutely.  "Entering  into  the  church,  the  psalm-singing  friars 
brought  Cranmer  to  his  standing,  and  there  left  him.  There  was  a  stage  set 
over  against  the  pu!pit.  of  a  mean  height  from  the  ground,  where  Cranmer  had 
his  standing,  waiting  until  Cole  made  him  ready  to  his  sermon."  Attired  in  a 
l>are  and  ragged  gown,  with  an  old  square  cap,  he  turned  to  a  pillar  near 
adjoining  thereto,  lifted  up  his  hands,  and  prayed.  Afterwards  being  per- 
mitted to  speak,  he  concluded  an  affecting  address  in  these  words  :  "  Forasmuch 
as  my  hand  offended  in  writing  contrary  to  my  heart,  my  hand  therefore  shall 
be  first  punished  ;  for  if  I  may  come  to  the  fire,  it  shall  be  the  first  burnt.  As 
for  the  l'ope,  I  utterly  refuse  his  false  doctrines  ;  and  as  for  the  Sacrament,  I 
believe  as  J  have  taught  in  my  hook  against  the  Bishop  of  Winchester,  which 
my  book  teacheth  so  true  a  doctrine  of  the  Sacrament,  that  it  shall  stand  at  the 
last  day  before  the  judgment  seat  of  God,  when  the  Papistical  doctrine  contrary 
thereto  shall  be  ashamed  to  show  her  /ace."  Having  thus  "  flung  down  the 
burden  of  his  shame."  Cranmer  recovered  his  strength,  and  went  without  fear 
to  the  stake.     (See  Martyrs'  Memorial,  No.  58.) 

An  inscription  on  a  marble  slab  in  the  floor  of  the  chancel 

informs  us,  on  the  authority  ot  a  contemporary  record,  that  "in  a 

vault  of  brick,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  quire  of  this  church,"  lies 


St.  Mary-the-Virgin's  Church, 


45 


Amy  Robsart,  the  ill-fated  heroine  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's  Kenihuorth. 
Her  body  was  conveyed  to  Oxford  from  Cumnor  Hall,  some  three 
or  four  miles  distant,  and  was  buried  on  Sunday,  22nd  Sept.,  1560, 
having  lain  in  state  at  Gloucester  Hall,  now  Worcester  College  (45). 

The  picturesque 
Italian  porch  with 
spiral  columns  was 
erected  in  1637  by 
Dr.  Morgan  Owen, 
chaplain  to  Abp. 
Laud.  Over  it  is 
a  statue  of  the  Vir- 
gin with  the  Child 
in  her  arms.  This 
effigy  occasioned 
such  offence  to  the 
Puritans  of  that 
day,  that  it  formed 
the  subject  of  one 
of  the  articles 
of  impeachment 
against  the  Arch- 
bishop. The  porch 
was  admirably  re- 
stored in  1865  by 
the  late  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  under  whose  judicious  direction  the 
whole  structure  was  put  into  repair.  The  Porch,  and  indeed  the 
whole  S.  front,  is  in  the  autumn  gorgeously  festooned  with  Virginia 
creeper,  all  aglow  with  crimson.     The  old  Chapel  adjoining  the 


THE     PORCH.   ST.    M  ARY'TH  E- VI  PGI  N  S  CHURCH. 


46  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

N.  side  of  the  Chancel,  for  centuries  the  Congregation  House  of 
the  University,  was  restored  in  187 1.  The  chamber  over  it  was 
originally  the  receptacle  of  the  University  library,  until  the  room 
over  the  Divinity  School  was  built  by  Duke  Humphrey  (6). 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  Church  an  ancient  and  historic  ale-house  has  recently 
undergone,  at  the  skilful  hands  of  Messrs.  Wilkinson  and  Moore,  architects,  a 
most  successful  transformation  into  a  dwelling-house,  appropriately  named 
11  St.  Marys  Entry."     Passing  this  on  our  left  we  find  ourselves  in 

RadclifTe  Square,  a  "place"  occupied  entirely  by  academic 
edifices,  and  singularly  rich  in  grand  and  beautiful  effects.  On  the 
E.  side  the  buildings  of  All  Souls  (19)  group  themselves  in  pictur- 
esque combinations.  On  the  W.  extends  the  E.  facade  of  Brasenose 
College  (22) ;  on  the  N.  is  the  Bodleian  Library  (6);  on  the  S.  is 
the  University  Church  (20)  we  have  just  left.  The  effect  of  its 
fine  tower  and  spire  seen  from  this  square  by  moonlight,  or  lit  up 
by  the  evening  sun  against  a  clear  sky,  is  indescribably  impressive. 
The  imposing  structure  in  the  centre  is  still  popularly  known  as 

21.  The  Radcliffe  Library,  although  more  correctly 
designated  Camera  Bodleiana  (colloquially  "The  Camera";  because 
now  used  as  a  Reading-Room  in  connection  with  the  Bodleian 
Library  (6).  It  is  open  to  visitors  on  payment  of  $d.  each,  from  10  till 
10  daily,  with  the  exception  of  certain  days  and  hours  during  which 
the  Bodleian  is  customarily  closed.  It  was  built  in  1737-49,  from 
a  design  by  Gibbs,  at  an  expense  of  ^40,000,  contributed  by  Dr. 
Radcliffe,  Physician  to  William  III.  and  Mary  and  to  Queen  Anne. 
To  this  large  sum  he  added  an  endowment  of  ^250  per  annum 
for  a  librarian's  salary,  and  two  other  sums  of  ;£ioo  for  repairs 
and  the  purchase  of  books.  This  library  was  originally  called  the 
Physic  Library,  its  design  being  the  encouragement  of  the  study  of 
the  physical  sciences;  but  in  1861  the  Radcliffe  collection  of  books 


RadclifTe  Library.— Brasenose  College.  47 

was  removed  to  the  spacious  room  provided  for  its  reception  in  the 
University  Museum  (9),  established  in  furtherance  of  the  same 
object,  and  the  present  building  transformed  into  a  reading-room  to 
the  Bodleian  Library  (6).  Here  all  new  publications  are  classified 
for  the  use  of  members  of  the  University  and  any  others  who 
obtain  permission  to  read  ;  and  books  may  also  be  brought  from 
the  Bodleian  for  perusal,  until  10  p.m. 

Here  are  preserved  some  elegant  Candelabra  from  the  baths  of  Hadrian's 
Villa  at  Tivoli  ;  as  well  as  casts  of  the  Belvidere  Apollo,  the  Townley  Venus, 
.Sic.     In  the  galleries  is  the  Hope  Collection  of  books  and  engraved  portraits. 

Should  the  day  be  fine,  we  would  strongly  advise  visitors  to  ascend  to  the 
gallery  which  surrounds  the  base  of  the  dome,  whence  they  will  enjoy  a  mag- 
nificent panorama  of  the  University  and  surrounding  country-  A  similar  view 
from  the  cupola  of  the  Sheldonian  Theatre  has  already  been  described  (see  pp. 
3,  4)  :  but  as  the  points  of  sight  are  not  precisely  identical,  we  subjoin  a  list  of 
the  principal  objects  seen  from  this  gallery,  giving  in  order  the  numbers  they 
bear  in  the  Guide  and  on  the  Flan.*  The  first  conspicuous  objects  N.  (to  our 
left  at  the  top  of  the  staircase)  are  the  Schools  Tower  (5)  and  Bodleian  (6)  : 
further  eastward  (to  the  right)  are  Nos.  8,  II,  and  12  ;  due  E  we  are  bounded 
by  19,  beyond  which  are  seen  13,  14,  and  17.  Next  are  the  lantern  and  roof  of 
14a  ;  and  then  (S.)  18,  26,  20,  28,  29,  30,  31,  32.  Brasenose  (22)  is  immedi- 
ately below  us  on  the  W.,  while  further  distant  are  65.  36,  64,  69,  39.  42,  40, 
43a  and  66.  X  W.,  behind  Bishop  Heber's  tree  (see  p.  49),  is  62  ;  then  come 
6,  1  :  and  beyond  these  (N  )  60,  57,  55,  50,  53^,  54,  51,  10,  and  9  :  the  cupola 
and  vane  of  ja  just  showing  above  the  roofs  between  9  and  5  ;  and  last,  No.  75. 

On  the  W.  side  of  RadclifTe  Square  is  the  old  entrance  to 
22.  Brasenose  College,  founded  in  1509  by  William  Smyth, 
Bishop  of  Lincoln,  and  Sir  Richard  Sutton,  Kt,  of  Prestbury  in 
Cheshire.  Several  scholarships  and  exhibitions  have  been  added 
by  subsequent  benefactors.  Henry  VIII. 's  charter,  entitling  this 
college  "  The  King's  Hall  and  College  of  Brasenose,"  is  dated  15th 
Jan.,  15 12,  but  the  work  of  education  has  been  conducted  on  this 
spot  from  a  more  remote  period.  The  older  buildings  occupy 
the  site  of  four  ancient  Halls ;  one  of  which  was  called  "  Little 
University  Hall,"  in  contradistinction  to  "  Miclde  University  Hall " 
*  For  a  handy  Key  to  these  numbers,  see  Numericaljndex  on  page  facing  the  Plan. 


48 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


(see  18);  another,  called  Brasenose  Hall,  is  said  to  have  derived 
the  name  from  its  occupying  the  site  of  a  brasen-hus  or  brewhouse. 
Over  the  old  entrance  gate  is  the  representation  of  a  brazen  nose, 
probably  added  at  a  much  later  date,  when  punning  rebuses  of 
this  kind  were  in  fashion.     The  Gateway  Tower  is  one  of  the  most 

handsome  in  Oxford. 
It  had  been  mischiev- 
ously altered  in  the 
17  th  century,  but  was 
faithfully  restored  a 
few  years  since  by 
Mr.  J.  C.  Buckler, 
architect. 

Our  view,  from  within 
the  first  Quadrangle,  gives 
a  much  better  idea  of  the 
original  proportions  of  the 
building  than  the  East 
front,  where  the  relative 
height  of  the  tower  is 
diminished  by  a  third 
storey,  constructed  in  the 
reign  of  James  I. 

The    Hall,    which 

retains    its    primitive 

form,   is    entered   on 

BRASENOSE   COLLEGE  &    RADCLIFFE   LIBRARY.  the  South   side  of  the 

quad,  by  a  curious  shallow  porch,  over  which  are  16th  cent,  busts 
of  Alfred  the  Great  and  Johannes  Erigena,  a  Scot,  who  is  said  to 
have  lectured  in  Little  University  Hall  on  this  site,  a.d.  882.  It 
contains  portraits  of  the  founder,  also  of  Dr.  Burton,  author  of  the 
"Anatomy  of  Melancholy,"  and  others.     The  Library  forms  the 


Brasenose  College.— St.  Mary  Hall.  49 

more  modern  portion  of  the  front  facing  Radcliffe  Square ;  and 
with  the  Chapel  which  adjoins  it  (both  said  to  have  been  the  work 
of  Sir  Christopher  Wren)  affords  a  very  interesting  example  of  the 
mixed  style  of  architecture  prevalent  in  his  day. 

The  Chapel,  1668,  has  a  fine  fan-tracery  roof,  and  its  general  effect  is  good, 
notwithstanding  its  architectural  anomalies.  The  glass  of  the  E.  window  is  by 
Hardman,  1855  ;  and  the  memorial  windows  to  the  late  Rev  F.  W.  Robertson, 
of  Brighton,  and  the  Rev.  J.  P.  Harris,  Chaplain  of  Lucknow  during  the 
memorable  siege,  are  worthy  of  notice. 

Among  the  eminent  members  of  Brasenose  should  also  be  mentioned  Bishop 
Miles,  John  Foxe,  Elias  Ashmole  (see  2),  Dean  Milman,  and  Bishop  Heber, 
who  when  a  student  here  occupied  rooms  on  the  ground  floor,  right  of  No.  4 
staircase,  which  are  still  overshadowed  by  a  noble  chestnut  tree  in  the  neigh- 
bouring garden  of  Exeter  College  (62),  hence  called  Bishop  Heber 's  Tree. 

Extensive  additions  have  recently  been  made  at  this  college.  New  buildings, 
comprising  more  than  twenty  sets  of  rooms,  two  lecture-rooms,  a  reading-room, 
and  various  offices,  occupy  the  site  of  old  Broadgates  Hall,  more  lately  called 
"Amsterdam,*'  anciently  a  place  of  considerable  importance,  and  at  one  time 
a  recognised  asylum  for  petty  criminals.  And  by  the  extension  of  the  college 
to  the  southward,  a  really  magnificent  frontage  to  the  High  street  is  gained. 
The  buildings  comprise  a  grand  Entrance  Gateway  and  Tower,  with  richly 
carved  details,  a  resident  for  the  Principal,  and  five  sets  of  rooms  for  under- 
graduates ;  and  this  new  South  front,  with  its  bold  gables  and  fine  range  of 
oriel  windows,  forms  a  worthy  addition  to  the  beauties  of  the  High  street. 
Mr.  T.   G.  Jackson  is  the  architect. 

We  now  cross  the  High  street  at  St.  Mary's  Church  (20),  and 
taking  a  good  look  at  the  new  front  of  Brasenose,  we  observe  that 
another  wing  remains  to  be  built  west  of  the  tower  in  completion 
of  the  design.  In  a  narrow  lane  opposite,  named  Oriel-street,  we 
find  on  our  left  hand, 

23.  St.  Mary  Hall.  The  site  was  anciently  occupied  by 
the  parsonage  of  St.  Mary-the-Virgin's,  presented  in  1325  by  King 
Edward  II.  to  Oriel  College  (24),  by  which  society  it  was  converted 
into  a  separate  place  of  education  in  1333.  About  the  year  1451, 
Bedell  Hall,  founded  in  1294,  was  also  conveyed  to  the  same 
college  by  the  University,  and  added  to  the  site.  The  buildings 
now  consist  of  a  small  quadrangle,  formed  by  the  Principal's 
1890.]  e 


50 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


lodgings  on  the  N.,  the  Hall  and  Chapel  (1639-40)  on  the  S.,  and 
apartments  for  students  E.  and  W.  The  E.  and  S.  sides  were 
entirely  rebuilt  in  the  last  century. 

Among  the  famous  men  who  studied  in  this  house  were  Sir  Thomas  More 
(whose  portrait  after  Holbein  adorns  the  Hall),  and  George  Sandys  the  poet. 
Adjoining  St.   Mary  Hall  is  its  parent  society,— 
24.  Oriel   College,  founded   by  King  Edward  II.,  at  the 

suggestion  of  his 
almoner,  Adam  de 
Brome,onthei2th 
April,  1326.  The 
King  bestowed  on 
the  society  a  large 
messuage  known 
as  "La  Oriole," 
whence  the  present 
name  of  the  college 
is  derived.*  The 
college  was  incor- 
porated in  1603 
by  letters  patent 
of  King  James  I. 
The  Hall  was  built 
dining  hALL.  oriel  COLLEGE.  in   1637,  and  has 

since  been  restored  and  improved.  It  is  entered  by  an  embattled 
portico  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps.  Over  the  entrance  are 
statues  of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  those  of  Kings  Edward  II. 
and  III.,  in  canopied  niches  under  a  semi-circular  pediment.    The 

*  Oriol  is  an  old  French  word  meaning  any  portiro,  recess,  or  small  room  which  was 
more  private  and  better  ornamented  than  the  rest  of  the  building.  It  is  derived  from  the 
Latin  aureolum,  gilded,  ornamented  with  gold. 


Oriel  College.  51 


room  is  of  noble  proportions,  and  its  oaken  roof  is  one  of  the  finest 

in  Oxford;  on  the  walls  are  several  portraits  of  eminent  persons 

connected  with   the   college,  including  Edward    II.,  Sir   Walter 

Raleigh,  Queen  Anne,  Bp.  Butler,  &c.    There  are  also  some  elegant 

specimens  of  ancient  art,  in  the  shape  of  two  drinking  cups,  one 

said  to  have  been  the  gift  of  Edward  II.,  the  other  a  cocoa-nut  in 

silver  gilt,  presented  by  Bishop  Carpenter  in  the  15th  century. 

The  Chapel  (adjoining  the  Hall  to  the  S.)  was  completed  in  1642. 

It  has   been   altered   at  various  dates,  most  recently  in    1884-5 

by  Mr.  T.  G.  Jackson,  and  a  new  E.  window  added  in  memory 

of  the  late   Provost.     The  Library,  designed  in  the  Ionic  order 

by  W'vatt,  17S8,  is  on  the  X.  side  of  the  second  quadrangle,  on 

the  site  of  an  older  room  originally  erected  in  1444.     It  contains 

many  rare   books,  including  the  "  Parliamentary  Records  "   and 

other  works  by  Prynne  the  republican  and  antiquary.     In   the 

Common  Room  on  the  ground  floor  are  portraits,  among  others,  of 

Bishops  Ken,  Morley,  Seth  Ward,  and  Copleston ;  together  with 

a  celebrated  painting  of  the  Italian  poets  by  VasarL 

Oriel  is  peculiarly  rich  in  biographical  reminiscences.  We  find  on  its  books 
in  bygone  years  the  names  of  Langlancie,  author  of  Piers  Ploughman  ;  Sir 
Walter  Raleigh,  Prynne,  and  Bishop  Butler  ;  and  in  later  times  many  of  its 
members  took  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  "  Tractarian"  movement.  John 
Keble  (see  io)  at  the  early  age  of  eighteen  became  a  Fellow  of  the  college,  and 
took  his  place  at  the  high  table  and  senior  common-room,  among  that  remark- 
able body  of  men  which  even  then  gave  the  intellectual  tone  to  the  University, 
and  afterwards,  by  the  gradual  accretion  of  men  of  marked  ability  and  kindred 
thought,  became  a  centre  of  influence  which  well-nigh  revolutionized  the  Church 
of  England.  Copleston  and  Davison  were  the  leaders  in  the  endless  discussions 
of  the  common-room  when  Keble  entered  it  almost  simultaneously  with 
Whately  ;  Newman,  Arnold,  Pusey,  and  many  lesser  lights  were  afterwaids 
added.     Bps.  Wilberforce  and  Hampden  were  also  members  of  this  college. 

Almost  opposite  Oriel  is  a  lofty  arch  flanked  with  fluted  Doric 

columns,  called  Canterbury  Gate,     It  was  built  by  Wyatt  in  1778, 


52 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


and  forms  the  entrance  to  one  of  the  small  quadrangles  of  Christ 
Church,  named  "Canterbury  Quad."  (see  page  67)  from  a  college 
formerly  standing  on  its  site,  founded  1363,  of  which  Wycliffe 
(see  Nos.  14,  20,  26,  60)  was  first  warden,  and  Sir  Thomas  More 
a  student.     Close  to  the  gateway  is 

25.  Corpus  Christi  College,*  founded  in  15 16  by  Richard 

Fox,  Bp.  of  Win- 
chester, Keeper  of 
the  Privy  Seal  to 
Henry  VII.  and 
Henry  VIII. 

It  was  dedicated  "to 
the  honour  of  the  most 
precious  Body  of  our 
Lord  Jesus  Christ,  of 
His  most  spotless 
Mother,  and  of  all  the 
Saints  Patrons  of  the 
Cathedral  Churches  of 
Winchester,  Durham, 
Bath  and  Wells,  and 
Exeter."' 

Bishop  Fox's  original 
design  was  to  erect 
a  seminary  for  eight 
monks  of  St.  Swith- 
un's  Priory  in  Win- 
chester, with  a  few 
secular  scholars.      But 


CO;. PUS    CH-.ISTI     COLLEGE. 


this  plan  was  altered,  it  is  said  at  the  suggestion  of  Hugh  Oldham,  Bp.  of  Exeter, 
who  remonstrated  thus:  ''What,  my  lord  !  shall  we  build  houses  and  provide 
livelihoods  for  a  company  of  buzzing  monks,  whose  end  and  fall  we  ourselves 
may  live  to  see?  No,  no  !  it  is  more  meet  a  great  deal,  that  we  should  have  care 
to  provide  for  the  increase  of  learning,  and  lor  such  as  by  their  learning  shall  do 
good  in  the  church  and  commonwealth."  Bishop  Oldham  followed  up  this  advice 

*  Some  important  additions  were  made-  to  this  College  in  1885,  by  the  erection  of  new 
buildings  on  the  opposite  side  oi  the  way,  at  the  corner  of  Grove-street,  at  a  coSt  of  about 
j£4.ooo,_from  theoriginal  and.characteristic.designs  of  Mr.  T.  G.  Jackson. 


Corpus  Christi  College, 


53 


by  giving  6,000  marks  towards  the  building  of  Corpus  Christi  College.  This 
institution  was  the  first  in  Oxford  in  which  any 
regular  provision  was  made  for  the  cultivation  of 
Greek  and  Latin  :  the  appointment  by  its  founder 
of  two  professors  for  these  languages  being  the 
first  noteworthy  attempt  to  depart  from  the  narrow 
plan  of  education  which  had  previously  prevailed 
in  the  University. 

Entering  by  the  tower  gateway,  with  fine 
vaulted  roof,  we  have  on  our  left  hand  the 
Hall,  which  possesses  a  good  timber  roof 
of  the  1 6th  cent.,  and  contains  portraits  of 
benefactors.     In  the  Library,  on  the  south  side, 
are  many  ancient  volumes  and  some  rare  M.SS. 
The  Chapel  (1517)  has  an  altar-piece  by  Rubens, 
representing   the    Adoration.      The    cylindrical 
Sun-dial  standing  in  the  centre  of  the  quadrangle 
(see  engraving,  p.  52)  was  constructed  in  1605  by 
Charles  Turnbull,  a  Fellow  of  the  college.     On 
its  summit  are  carved  the  arms  of  Henry  VI L, 
the  University,  and  Bps.  Fox  and  Oldham;  and 
beneath  these  is  the  dial,  exhibiting  a  curious 
perpetual    calendar.       Through    the    adjoining 
cloister  we  reach  a  modern  range,  called  "Tur- 
ner's Buildings"   (after  a  former  President  by 
whom  they  were  built  in  1706)  and  the  Gardens 
beyond,   whence   is   obtained   a   good  view  of 
Christ    Church    meadow   and    walks.      Several 
objects  of  antiquarian  interest  are  treasured  as 
relics  in  this  college :  among  them  the  Crozier 
bp.  foxs     roz:er.   of  the  founder,  in  perfect  preservation,  although 
more  than  300  years  old.     It  is  six  feet  in  length,  of  silver  gilt, 


54  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

elegantly  ornamented,  and  in  beauty  only  second  to  the  one  pre- 
served at  New  College  (see  page  23).  There  is  besides  an  original 
portrait  of  Bp.  Fox,  executed  by  a  Fleming  named  Joannes  Corvus, 
early  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  ;  also  the  founder's  sacramental 
plate,  and  other  interesting  and  valuable  articles. 

Corpus  Christi  has  had  from  its  foundation  a  great  reputation  for  learning, 
and  has  numbered  many  remarkable  men  among  its  members — conspicuously 
Bp.  Jewell  and  the  "judicious"  Hooker.  In  the  list  of  modern  worthies  stands 
prominently  the  name  of  John  Keble  (10),  who  in  his  fifteenth  year  was  elected 
to  a  scholarship  here,  which  he  held  until,  on  taking  a  "double  first"  at  his 
final  examination,  he  gained  a  fellowship  at  Oriel  (24)  at  the  age  of  eighteen. 

Next  to  Corpus  eastward  is 

26.  Merton  College,  in  many  respects  one 
of  the  most  interesting  foundations  in  the  Univer- 
sity. It  competes  with  Balliol  (60)  for  the  honour 
of  being  the  oldest  college  in  Oxford — having  been 
founded  in  1264  by  Walter  de  Merton,  Bishop 
of  Rochester  and  Lord  High  Chancellor,  who  arms  of  merton 
originally  instituted  a  house  for  students  at  Maiden  in  Surrey, 
which  was  transferred  to  Oxford  in  1274. 

They  were  a  body  of  secular  students,  not  required  to  enter  into  holy  orders 
("qui  non  rdigiosi,  1  eligiosi  viverent ")  ;  and  if  they  took  the  vows  of  any  among 
the  monastic  orders  they  ceased  ipso  facto  to  be  members  of  the  college.  The 
Fellows  of  Merton  early  acquired  a  reputation  for  free  speech  and  bold  specula- 
tion. Wycliiie  was  one  of  them  (see  14,  20,  60).  They  were  among  the  earliest 
of  the  Lollards,  and  were  in  fact  called  Lollards  till  the  end  of  the  17th  century. 

The  Chapel,  which  is  also  the  Church  of  St.  John  the 
Baptist  (1264-1310  ;  Tower  1450)  is  the  first  object  which  claims 
special  attention.  The  visitor  cannot  fail  to  be  struck  with  the 
extent  and  beauty  of  the  Choir  as  seen  from  Merton-street,  and 
the  bold  effect  of  the  Tower  and  transepts.  The  original  design 
was  evidently  for  a  cathedral-shaped  edifice  on  the  usual  cruciform 


Merton  College. 


55 


ground  plan,  the  tower  and  transepts  plainly  showing  traces  of  the 

projected   extension   westward.      We   enter   the  college   by  the 

principal  gateway,  which  is  surmounted  with  figures  of  the  founder 

and    Henry   II L,   and   a  curious   sculpture   of  St.  John   Baptist 

preaching  in  the  wilderness ;   and  passing  through  an  iron  gate  on 

our  right  into  the  old  burial  .,/o ullJMl UHiillftllU4 . 

ground,  we  gain  access  to 

the  interior  of  the   Chapel 

by  a  small  door  on  the  E. 

side  of  the  North  transept, 

and  are  at  once  impressed 

with  the  grand  proportions 

of  the  tower  arches. 

On  the  wall  at  our  left  on 
entering,  we  notice  an  exquisite 
bas-relief  in  white  marble,  by 
Woolner,  in  memory  of  the 
martyred  Bishop  Patteson,  some- 
time a  Fellow  of  this  college. 
In  the  transepts  are  also  monu- 
ments to  Antony  a  Wood,  Sir 
Thos.  Bod  ley  (see  6),  and  Sir  H. 
Saville  :  and  on  the  floor  are  nu- 
merous traces  of  ancient  brasses. 

The  Choir  is  a  perfectly 
beautiful  specimen  of  late 
13th  century  Gothic.  Its 
fourteen    side   windows    of  merton  college  gateway. 

diverse  yet  harmonious  geometric  patterns  (the  upper  lights  retain- 
ing their  original  glass) ;  its  splendid  East  window,  of  exquisite 
design,  although  somewhat  marred  by  the  inferior  painted  glass 
with  which  the  lower  lights  were  filled  in  1702;  its  elaborately 
carved  sedilia,  well-preserved  memorial  brasses  (dated  1387  and 


56  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

(1471),  brass  lectern  of  the  15th  century,  and  richly  illuminated 
roof,  restored  in  1850-T,  combine  to  form  a  charming  ensemble 
unsurpassed  in  Oxford.  Besides  the  daily  prayers,  attended  by 
members  of  the  college  only,  there  is  Public  service  in  the  choir 
every  Sunday  at  3  p.m.  Returning  to  the  First  Quadrangle,  we 
notice  on  our  right  the  glorious  East  window  of  the  Chapel  (see  p. 
57),  close  to  which  is  the  old  Sacristy,  temp.  Edw.  II. 

Having  served  for  many  years  the  purposes  of  a  brew-house,  this  Sacristy  has 
now  been  carefully  restored  (1887)  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Jackson,  and  an 
interesting  staircase  of  the  15th  century  brought  to  light. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  quadrangle  is  the  Hall,  one  of  the  most 
interesting  and  most  ancient  refectories  in  Oxford.  It  was 
thoroughly  restored  in  1872  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott,  the  original  oak 
door  with  iron  hinge-mountings  {circa  1320)  being  retained.  On 
the  walls  are  portraits  of  the  founder,  Duns  Scotus,  Bp.  Jewell,  and 
other  celebrities.  Leaving  the  First  Quadrangle  through  a  low 
archway  W.  of  the  Hall,  we  pass  to  our  right,  under  an  ancient 
Muniment-room  or  Treasury  of  the  13th  cent,  with  quaint  high- 
pitched  stone  roof,  into  the  Mob  Quadrangle,  containing  on  its  S. 
side  the  venerable  Library,  certainly  one  of  the  most  ancient  in 
the  kingdom  :  its  narrow  lancet-shaped  windows  with  trefoil  heads 
indicating  its  antiquity.  It  was  built  in  1349  by  William  Rede, 
Bp.  of  Chichester,  on  the  site  of  an  old  structure  ;  but,  as  may  be 
seen,  the  dormer  windows  in  the  roof  were  added  some  centuries 
later,  when  in  the  reign  of  James  I.  the  interior  was  fitted  up  as 
it  now  remains, — a  very  interesting  specimen  of  an  old  English 
library,  well  rewarding  the  inspection  of  the  visitor. 

Beyond  another  stone-groined  archway  at  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Library 
Quadrangle,  and  in  startling  contrast  with  these  venerable  monastic  relics,  is  a 
new  building  erected  in  1864  for  the  accommodation  of  additional  students. 

Retracing  our  steps  to  the  First  Quad.,  we  pass  E.  of  the  Hall 

into  the  FcUaws*  Quadrangle,  1610,  under  a  wide-spanned  arch  with 


MERTON    COLLEGE   CHAPEL,  FROM   THE    EA3T. 


58  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

remarkable  vaulted  roof,  having  among  its  bosses  the  arms  of 
Henry  VII.  surrounded  by  the  signs  of  the  zodiac.     Opposite  us 
is  an  imitation  of  the  Schools-.  Tower  (5)  minus  the  first  or  Tuscan 
stage  j  and  beyond  this  is  a  Garden  and  terrace-walk  on  a  portion 
of  the  old  city  wall,  which  affords  a  most  delightful  prospect,  from 
Magdalen  Tower  (17)  on  the  left  to  Christ  Church  (29)  on  the  right. 
Dr.  Harvey,  the  discoverer  of  the  circulation  of  the  blood,  was 
once  Warden   of  this   College.     Connected  with    Merton,  and 
communicating   with   it   on    the   east   side   of  the   First   Quad- 
rangle, is  a  group  of  buildings  until  1882  known  as  St.  Alban 
Hall  (27),  which  was  founded  in  1230  by  Robert  de  St.  Alban, 
a  citizen  of  Oxford,  who  gave  it  with  another  tenement  called 
Nun  Hall  to  the  nuns  of  Littlemore.     These  houses  were  sub- 
sequently leased  to  Merton  College  :   but  at  the  dissolution  of 
Littlemore  nunnery  for  the  founding  of  Wolsey's  College  (29),  St. 
Alban  Hall  became  his  property,  and  on  his  fall  it  came  into  the 
hands  of  Henry  VI II.,  from  whom  it  ultimately  passed  to  Merton 
College  in    1549.     This   Hall  was  rebuilt  in    1600,  and  further 
enlarged  and  improved  in  1863  and  1866.     In  its  quadrangle  is  a 
quaint  gabled  bell-turret  worthy  of  notice.     By  virtue  of  a  statute 
made  in  1881  by  the  University  Commissioners,  St.  Alban  Hall  is 
now  formally  united  with  Merton  College.     On  leaving  Merton, 
we  retrace  our  steps  past  the  Chapel,  remarking  the  grotesque 
carving  of  the  gurgoyles  or  water-spouts  from  its  roof,  and  turn 
to  the  left  through  a  gateway  adjoining  the  N.  transept  leading  to 
Merton  Fields,  whence  from  various  points  many  of  the  colle- 
giate buildings  may  be  seen  j  the  Cathedral  (29)  being  a  prominent 
object  on  our  right.     The  fine  avenue  of  elms  facing  us,  named  the 
Broad   Walk,   communicates   at   each  end   with  a  delightful 


Christ  Church  Meadow. 


59 


river-side  walk,  a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  extent,  surrounding  a  large 
meadow,  known  as  Christ  Church  Meadow  (see  p.  69).*  In 
the  Broad  ]}'alk  a  promenade  is  held  annually  on  the  Sunday  in 
Commemoration  week,  hence  popularly  called  "  Show  Sunday." 
Near  the  W.  end  of  the  Broad  Walk,  an  avenue  planted  a  few 
years  since  (marked  "  New  Walk ;'  in  Plan)  leads  directly  to  the 


?W5 

CLUB   BARGES  ON  THE    ISIS. 

River  Isis,  a  classic  name  applied  to  that  part  of  the  Thames 
which  flows  by  the  classic  University.  The  Oxfordshire  shore  is 
lined  with  barges,  some  of  which  are  occupied  by  the  proprietors 
of  rowing  boats,  but  the  more  handsome  ones  by  the  Rowing 
Clubs  of  the  various  colleges.  These  are  in  fact  floating 
club-houses,  well  supplied  with  newspapers,  periodicals,  writing 

This  meadow  was  the  j;ift  of  Lady  Elizabeth  Montacute  (see  "page  63). 


66  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

materials,  and   every  accommodation  for  members  who  indulge 

in  aquatic  exercise.     The  University  Boat  Club  barge,  represented 

to  the  right  of  our  engraving,  was  designed  by  Mr.  Bruton,  and  is 

in  plan  and  decoration  appropriate  for  the  purpose.      The  other 

barge  seen  in  the  illustration  (but  not  now  in  the  position  there 

shown)  was  formerly  the  state  baige  of  the  Stationers'  Company  of 

London.     On  the  river  in  summer-time  a  most  animated  sight  is 

presented  by    the   numberless   craft,   from   canoes   to   eight-oars, 

which  crowd  its  surface. 

During  the  Lent  and  Summer  Terms  the  College  eight-oar  races  are  rowed 
here,  when  some  fifty  crews,  including  the  "  torpids,"  compete  for  the  glory  of 
heading  the  river.  On  the  Monday  in  Commemoration  week  there  is  in  the 
evening  a  grand  procession  of  about  fifty  racing  boats,  each  manned  by  nine 
men  in  rowing  suits  of  distinctive  colours;  when  the  University  barges  arc 
crowded  with  fair  spectators,  manifesting  delighted  interest  in  the  pretty  sight, 
as  the  boats  in  order  pass  the  fortunate  crew  who  are  "head  of  the  river,"  and 
give  a  hearty  salute  by  adroitly  tossing  all  their  oars  in  the  air— an  achievement 
which  when  clumsily  attempted  sometimes  entails  the  sudden  punishment  of 
submersion,  to  the  no  small  merriment  of  thousands  of  spectators. 

Returning  by  the  new  avenue,  and  recrossing  the  Broad  Walk 
at  its  western  extremity,  we  approach  the  noble  buildings  and 
spacious  quadrangles  of  the  most  magnificent  academic  and 
religious  foundation  in  Europe,— 

28-31.  Christ  Church.*  Facing  us  are  the  New  Build- 
ings (28),  an  extensive  range  erected  in  1862-6,  and  containing 
fifty  sets  of  rooms  for  students'  lodgings.  Passing  through  the 
tower  gateway  of  this  Meadow  Front  and  leaving  the  Chaplains' 
Quadrangle  on  our  left,  we  enter  the  old  Cloisters  leading  to 

*  For  the  sake  of  distinctness,  the  principal  buildings  of  Christ  Church  are  separately 
numbered  on  our  Plan,  from  28  to  31  inclusive.  It  should  be  observed  that  in  pursuing 
the  course  of  our  walk  we  have  approached  Christ  Church  from  the  East,  and  shall  leave 
by  the  usual  Western  entrance  in  St.  Aldate's  (see  page  68).  A  visitor  entering  through 
"Tom"  gateway  would  have  to  reverse  the  order  of  description,  beginning  at  No.  31 
(page  63)  and  tracing  back  to  No.  28  on  this  page. 


Christ  Church  Cathedral.  61 


29.  The  Cathedral,  which  is  both  the  chapel  of  Christ 
Church  and  the  chief  church  of  the  diocese  of  Oxford.  It  is  open 
for  the  inspection  of  visitors  daily  from  n  till  i  and  from  2.30  till 
4.30.       Entrance  by  the  W.  door  in  the  Great  Quadrangle. 

This  venerable  pile  boasts  an  antiquity  far  greater  than  that  of  the  collegiate 
establishment  with  which  it  is  now  combined.  Standing  under  its  shadow, 
let  us  take  a  rapid  glance  at  the  history  of  both.  The  earliest  annals  of  the 
church  carry  us  back,  to  Saxon  times,  and  connect  themselves  with  the  almost 
legendary  history  of  a  renowned  priory,  founded  by  St.  Frideswide,  who  died 
A. d.  740.  In  1 1 80  her  remains  were  removed  "from  an  obscure  to  a  more 
noted  place  in  the  church."  At  this  date  the  main  fabric  of  the  present  church 
was  complete,  having  been  erected  by  Prior  Guimond,  II 20-11 80;  and  the 
massive  columns  and  arches  were  then  substantially  the  same  as  we  see  them 
now.  In  1289  a  new  and  more  worthy  shrine  for  her  relics  was  solemnly  dedi- 
cated, and  this  was  again  replaced  in  1480  by  one  still  more  superb,  which 
remains  in  the  Cathedral,  a  rich  specimen  of  mediaeval  architecture.*  St. 
Frideswide's  Priory  was  finally  surrendered  to  Henry  VIII.  in  1522,  and  by  him 
transferred  to  Cardinal  Wolsey,  then  in  the  zenith  of  his  prosperity.  This 
eminent  prelate  had  resolved  to  found  an  institution  to  be  called  "  Cardinal's 
College,"  where  the  new  learning,  then  pouring  over  Europe,  should  be  culti- 
vated in  the  service  of  the  old  Church,  on  a  scale  of  such  magnificence  that  no 
other  foundation  in  Europe  should  be  able  to  compare  with  it.  The  first  stone 
of  Wolsey's  College  was  laid  July  17,  1525,  but  the  completion  of  this  grand 
project  was  prevented  by  his  attainder  in  1529.  Henry  VIII.  then  took  pos- 
session of  all  the  revenues  which  had  been  appropriated  to  Wolsey's  design, 
and  in  1532  founded  a  college  here  which  he  named  King  Henry  VIII.  s 
College.  In  1540,  having  created  the  bishopric  of  Oxford,  first  established  at 
Osney  Abbey  in  the  western  suburb,  he  connected  the  new  see  with  his  recently 
founded  college  t  Christ  Church  is  therefore  an  instance,  without  parallel,  of 
the  union  of  a  cathedral  and  a  collegiate  foundation.  Its  Latin  name  being 
/Odes  ChrLti  (not  Collegium),  it  is  never  called  a  College,  but  is  spoken  of  by 
its  members  as  "The  House."  A  curious  illustration  of  its  mixed  constitution 
i.-,  afforded  by  the  fact  that  although  the  diocesan  is  styled  Bishop  of  Oxford. 
one  never  hears  of  the  Dean  of  Oxford  or  the  Canons  of  Oxford,  but  they  are 
always  called  Dean  and  Canons  of  Christ  Chinch. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  very  interesting  architectural  type  of  the 

transition  period  between  the  Norman  and  Early  English  styles. 

•  It  is  now  asserted  that  the  true  shrine  of  St.  Frideswide  was  demolished  at  the  Refor* 
matiou,  and  that  this  tomb  was  built  in  memory  of  an  unknown  merchant  and  his  wife. 

t  The  King  died  within  a  few  weeks  after  its  foundation,  without  hanug  signed  any 
statutes  for  the  House. 


62 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


CHRIST  CHURCH   CATHEDRAL.   FROM   THE  CLOISTERS- 

Reproduced  from  "Cathedral  Churches  of  England  and  Wales,"  bv  permission  of 

Messrs.  Casscll  er  Co, 


Christ  Church  Cathedral.  63 


Its  spire  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  England  ;  and  the  beautiful 
vaulted  roof  of  the  Choir  (said  to  have  been  added  by  Wolsey  as 
some  atonement  for  having  pulled  dcrvn  fifty  feet  of  the  nave)  is 
much  admired.  The  E.  end  was  restored  in  1S71  by  Sir  G.  G. 
Scott  in  harmony  with  the  original  design  ;  and  within  the  last  few 
years,  the  whole  of  the  interior  has  b*en  greatly  improved,  the 
nave  considerably  extended  westward,  he  Cloisters  restored,  and 
a  new  W.  entrance  opened  from  the  Great  Quadrangle  (p.  67). 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  choir  an  Episcopal  Throne  has  been  erected  at  the  cost 
of  ^1,000,  as  a  memorial  to  the  late  Bp.  Wilberiorce ;  a  life-like  medallion 
portrait  of  this  prelate  is  conspicuous  among  its  profuse  embellishment  of  wood- 
carving.  The  richly  ornamented  Lectern  was  presented  by  the  Censors  of  the 
House,  and  the  Bible  (17th  cent.)  by  three  daughters  of  the  Dean.  An  ex- 
quisitely carved  Reredosin  >and>t<»ne  and  rosso  antico,  richly  gilded,  has  very 
recently  been  added.  X.  of  the  choir  is  the  Lady  Chapel,  oi  Early  English 
date  ;  its  delicately  moulded  shafts  contrasting  with  the  massive  Norman  columns 
opposite.  The  Latin  Chapel  (adjoining,  N. ).  s<  1  called  because  the  Latin  prayers 
were  formerly  read  here,  contains  some  of  the  original  woodwork  of  Wolsey's 
time  (see  engraving,  page  64).  It  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Lady  Elizabeth 
de  Montacute,  who  died  in  1350.  Her  tomb  adjoins  the  reputed  shrine  of  St. 
Frideswide  (see  p.  61),  shown  to  the  right  of  our  view  :  and  the  career  of  this 
saint  is  commemorated  in  the  glass  of  the  east  window.  The  other  tomb-,  on  the 
S.  side  of  the  Latin  Chapel  are  those  of  a  prior,  fully  robed,  believed  10  be  Alex, 
de  Sutton,  prior  of  St.  Frideswide.  1294  1316  ;  and  Sir  George  Mowers,  a  com- 
panion of  the  Hlack  Prince,  who  died  1425.  At  the  angle  of  the  S  aisle  of  the 
choir  and  the  S.  transept  is  the  tomb  of  Bp.  King,  last  Abbot  of  0>ney  and  first 
Bp.  of  Oxford  (sec  p.  69,  also  Appendix)  :  his  effigy  may  be  seen  in  a  small 
window  close  by.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  S.  transept  is  St.  Lu,fs  Chapel,  con- 
taining the  curious  Becket  window,  in  which  the  head  of  the  murdered  prelate 
is  obliterated,  it  is  said  by  royal  command.  A  >!a^>  of  marble  in  the  floor  of 
the  nave  covers  the  grave  of  Dr.  Pusey.  Inlaid  in  lead  is  a  Latin  inscription 
to  his  memory  and  that  of  his  wife  and  two  laughters  w  iih  \\  horn  he  lies  buiied. 
On  the  wall  of  the  S.  aisle  have  been  recently  placed  (1SS6)  a  life-like  bust  in 
white  marble  of  the  late  Prince  Leopold,  ai  d  a  medallion  portrait  of  the  wife  of 
Sir  Henry  Acland,  both  with  engraved  bra.-s  tablets.  The  ercat  window  in  the 
X.  transept,  representing  the  triumph  of  St.  Michael  the  Archangel,  was  pre- 
sented by  the  Marquis  of  Lothian  in  1S76.  Mr.  Burne  Jone.-/  windows  are 
deserving  of  special  notice.  One,  in  memory  of  Mr.  Yyner," murdered  by  Greek 
brigands  in  1870,  is  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Lady  Chapel  ;  "  St.  Cecilia's  "  adjoins 
it  in  the  N.  aisle  of  choir  ;  and  in  the  S.  aisle,  also  at  E.  end,  is  "  St.  Catherine 


64 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


LATIN   CHAPEL,  CHRIST  CHURCH   CATHEDRAL. 

Showing  the  Shrine  and  Window  of  St.  Frideswide. 

Reproduced  from  "  Cathedral  Churches  of  England  and  Wales,"  by  permission  of 

Messrs.  Cassell  &  Co. 


Christ  Church.  65 


of  Alexandria,"  in  memory  of  the  late  Miss   Edith  Liddell.     Another  by  this 
artist,  subject.  ';  Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity,"  is  at  the  W.  end  of  the  S.  aisle. 

Full  choral  Cathedral  service  is  performed  here  daily,  at  io  and  5,  open  to  the 
public  ;  and  there  is  also  an  earlier  and  a  later  service,  the  former  attended  by 
all  the  members  of  the  House.  We  advise  visitors  who  may  spend  a  >unday 
in  Oxford,  especially  in  term-time,  not  to  miss  evening  prayers  at  5  o'clock. 
There  still  survives  here  a  '  use '  adopted  in  honour  of  Henry  VIII.,  the  royal 
founder  of  the  House,  viz.  :  the  repetition  of  the  versicle  and  response,  "  O 
Lord,  save  the  Queen,"  &o,  before  the  Prayer  for  the  Queen's  Majesty. 

The  Chapter  House,  adjoining  the  S.  transept,  a  beautifnl  speci- 
men of  Early  English  (restored  in  1S79),  is  entered  from  the 
cloisters  by  a  fine  Norman  doorway.  In  its  E.  wall  is  preserved 
the  foundation  stone  of  Wolsey's  College  at  Ipswich,  a.d.  1528. 

Through  a  low  arched  passage  between  the  S.  transept  and  the  Chapter 
House,  access  is  gained  to  a  small  enclosure  used  as  a  burial-ground.  In  the 
"  stillness  and  seclusion  "  of  this  quiet  nook,  just  beneath  her  memorial  window, 
is  the  simple  grave  of  a  daughter  of  the  present  Dean  ;  and  here  also  the  late 
Dr.  Pusey  s  only  son  lies  buried.  The  S.E.  view  of  the  Cathedral  from  this 
spot  is  one  of  the  most  impressive. 

Under  the  new  Belfry  Tower  (completed  in  1879  f°r  tne  recep- 
tion of  the  sweet-toned  bells  from  the  Cathedral  tower — originally 
in  Osney  Abbey)  we  now  ascend  the  Hall  Staircase,  admiring  the 
elegant  fan-tracery  of  the  stone  roof  (1640),  supported  by  a  single 
slender  pillar,  and  enter 

30.  Christ  Church  Hall  (fee  2d.),  the  grandest  of  all 
mediaeval  Halls  in  the  kingdom,  save  that  at  Westminster. 

Its  length  is  115  ft.,  breadth  40  ft.,  height  50  ft.  Its  lofty  roof  (dated  1529  ; 
repaired,  after  fire,  1720)  is  of  Irish  oak,  decorated  with  armorial  bearings. 
In  this  room  a  banquet  was  given  to  Henry  VIII.  in  1533;  dramatic  repre- 
sentations were  witnessed  here  by  Elizabeth.  James  I.,  and  Charles  I.  ;  and 
here  in  1644  the  latter  monarch  assembled  those  members  of  Parliament  who 
remained  faithful  to  his  failing  cause.  The  dais  or  high  table  at  the  upper  end 
of  the  room  is  lighted  on  the  S.  side  by  a  large  and  splendid  oriel  window 
recently  filled  (by  Messrs.  Burlison  &  Grylls)  with  exquisitely  wrought  full-length 
portraits  of  Cardinal  Wolsey,  Sir  Thomas  More,  Erasmus,  Earl  Surrey,  Abp. 
Wareham,  Dean  Colet,  Linacre,  and  Lily  ;  on  the  N.  side  is  another  window, 
erected  in  1867  at  the  cost  of  the  late  Archdeacon  Clerke,  in  commemoration 
of  the  membership  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  Prince  Frederick  of  Denmark. 

The  walls  are  adorned  with  a  magnificent  collection  of  portraits  of  persons 

1890.]  F 


66 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


belonging  to  the  foundation,  by  eminent  painters  ;  amongst  them,  Holbein,  Sir 
Peter  Lely,  Vandyke,  Hogarth,  Gainsborough,  Sir  Godfrey  Kneller,  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds,  and  Sir  Martin  Shee.  Holbein's  picture  of  Wolsey  gives  a  view, 
the  oldest  and  most  authentic,  of  the  earlier  buildings, — Cathedral,  Hall,  and 
Kitchen.     Over  all  presides  Holbein's  striking  portrait  of  Henry  VIII.     One 


DINING    HALL,  CHRIST    CHURCH- 

of  the  latest  and  not  the  least  noteworthy  addition  to  this  grand  collection  is 
Millais'  life-like  portrait  of  Mr.  Gladstone,  robed  as  a  D.C.L. 

Leaving  the  Hall,  we  descend  by  a  staircase  on  our  right  to  the 
Kitchen,  of  considerable  antiquarian  interest,  having  been  the  first 
building  completed  by  Wolsey,  and  remaining  almost  unchanged 


Christ  Church.  67 


to  this  day.  Here  is  a  monster  gridiron  on  wheels,  a  curious  relic 
of  ancient  cookery.  Returning  under  the  Hall  staircase  through 
the  Bell-tower  gateway,  we  reach  the 

Great  Quadrangle,  264  feet  by  261,  the  noblest  and  most 
spacious  in  Oxford,  and  forming  part  of  Cardinal  Wolsey's  original 
plan,  although  the  N.  side  was  not  completed  till  1668.  Great 
improvements  have  been  effected  here  by  recent  restorations: 
notably  the  parapet  and  pinnacles  surmounting  the  Hall,  and  the 
moulding  of  arches  and  ribs  indicative  of  the  original  design  for  a 
grand  cloister.  The  eastern  terrace-walk  leads  us  past  the  Deanery 
to  a  Tower  gateway  at  the  opposite  angle,  through  which  we  enter 
Peckwater  Quadrangle^  on  the  site  of  a  certain  Peck  water's  Inn. 
The  present  buildings  were  erected  from  the  designs  of  Dean 
Aldrich  about  1705.  On  the  right  is  the  Library (  a  handsome 
classic  edifice  (built  1716-1761);  open  in  Term  time  from  11  to  1 
and  from  2  to  4  :  and  during  the  summer  vacation  at  other  hours. 
(Fee  id)  It  contains  on  its  lower  floor  a  choice  collection  of 
paintings,  rich  in  specimens  of  the  early  Italian  schools,  and  in 
the  lobby  are  marble  busts  of  the  Four  Georges  and  others.  A 
catalogue  may  be  procured  at  the  library.  On  the  upper  floor 
is  a  very  fine  collection  of  books,  the  donations  of  Abp.  Wake, 
Dean  Aldrich,  and  other  benefactors,  with  oriental  coins,  M.SS.  of 
great  historic  interest,  and  other  valuable  curiosities.  The  smaller 
court  beyond  is  Canterbury  Quadrangle,  its  gateway  opening  into 
Merton-street,  close  to  Corpus  Christi  College  (see  page  52). 

Christ  Church  has  been  the  foster-mother  of  many  of  the  most  celebrated 
Englishmen.  To  quote  again  from  Mr.  Arnold's  work,  Oxford  and  Cambridge : — 
"  Look  at  our  recent  history  :  Lords  Elgin  and  Dalhousie,  Sir  George  Cornewall 
Lewis,  [the]  Sir  Robert  Peel,  Canning,  and  Mr.  Gladstone,  are  all  Christ  Church 
men.  Among  the  statesmen  of  the  past  we  may  name  Godolphin,  Nottingham, 
Arlington,  Wyndham,  Carteret,  Bolingbroke,  Grenville,  Lyttelton,  Mansfield. 
One  might  construct  a  good  portion  of  the  history  of  England  out  of  the  livei 


68  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

of  these  great  men.  Perhaps  the  foremost  name  of  Christ  Church  worthies  will 
be  con-ideied  to  he  that  of  John  Locke.  And  then  there  are  such  men  as  Men 
Jon>on  and  Sir  Philip  Sydney  among  poets,  and  Casaubon  and  Uaisford  among 
scholars  ''  John  and  Charles  Wesley,  the  famous  leaders  of  the  religious 
revival  of  last  century,  were  members  of  the  House  ;  and  the  late  Dr.  Pusey 
was  for  more  than  half-a-century  one  of  the  Canons  in  residence. 

We  now  retrace  our  steps  into  the  Great  Quadrangle,  and  quit 

the  precincts  of  Christ  Church  by  the  grand  gateway  under 


WEST    FRONT    OF    CHRIST    CHURCH. 

31.  "Tom  Tower,"*  so  called  because  containing  "Great 
Tom,"  a  bell  formerly  belonging  to  Osney  Abbey,  but  recast  in  1680, 
and  weighing  nearly  18,000  lbs.  It  may  be  seen  on  application  to 
the  porter  and  payment  of  a  fee  of  2d.  Every  night  at  9.5  "  Tom  " 
tolls  a  curfew  of  101  strokes,  as  a  signal  for  the  closing  of  college 
gates.  The  E?itra?ice  Gateway,  well  worthy  of  its  old  name,  "  The 
Faire  Gate,"  was  erected  to  the  height  of  the  two  smaller  towers  by 

*  Should  the  visitor,  by  preference  or  chance,  have  entered  Christ  Church  by  "Tom" 
gate,  he  will  find  it  necessary  to  reverse  the  order  of  the  description,  beginning  with  No. 
31  on  this  page,  and  tracing  back  to  No.  2b  on  page  60. 


Christ  Church.— Folly  Bridge. 


69 


Cardinal  Wolsey,  whose  statue  is  over  the  gateway  j  but  the  Bell- 
tower  was  added  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  about   1682. 

Beneath  the  noble  archway  let  us  turn  to  observe  the  very  striking  effect  of 
the  quadrangle,  —  Hall,  Belfry,  &c. — as  seen  from  this  point  ;  and  then, 
stepping  out  "into  St.  Aldate's-street,  gain  our  final  impression  of  Christ  Church 
from  its  grand  West  front  (see  engraving,  p.  6S). 

At  the  S.  end  of  this  front  a  lane  (shown  in  our  Plan)  leads  directly  to  the 
Broad  Walk,  Meadow  Walks,  and  the  river  I  sis  (see  p.  59). 

Near  this  "  Meadow  Gate  *'  stood  the  South  Gate  of  the  City 


christ  church  mealOW  walk. 

(demolished  1 77 1)  ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  just 
below,  is  an  ancient  house  with  ornamented  gables,  believed  to 
have  been  the  palace  of  Bishop  King,  the  last  Abbot  of  Osney  and 
first  Bishop  of  Oxford,*  1542-57,  whose  tomb  is  in  the  S.  aisle  of  the 
Cathedral  (see  p.  63).  Further  S.,  on  the  site  of  the  present  bridge 
over  the  Isis,  was  a  tower  said  to  have  been  occupied  as  an  obser- 
vatory by  Friar  Bacon,*  and  afterwards  leased  to  a  citizen  named 
Welcome,  who  added  another  storey,  hence  called  "  Welcome's 

Engravings  of  Friar  Bacon's  Study  and  Bp.  King's  Palace  are  given  in  the  chapter 
on  "  Old  Oxford,"  appended  to  our  Shilling  edition. 


70  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

Folly."  This  bridge  thus  acquired  the  title  of  Folly  Bridge, 
which  it  still  retains,  although  the  tower  was  pulled  down  in  1779. 
From  this  bridge  an  excellent  view  is  obtained  of  the  course  of  the  river  Isis 
towards  Iffley,  gay  with  barges  ;  also  of  the  new  University  Boaihouse  on  its 
right  bank.  From  the  landing-stage  pleasure  parties  start  for  Nuneham,  and 
steam-boats  ply  frequently  during  the  summer  months. 

32.  St.  Aldate's  Church,  facing  Christ  Church,  was  built  about 
13 18,  enlarged  and  improved  in  1862,  and  is  now  one  of  the  most 
handsome,  spacious,  and  commodious  of  the  city  churches.  The 
spire,  rebuilt  in  1874,  though  small,  is  extremely  elegant.  Over  the 
S.  aisle,  1335-6,  there  was  formerly  an  upper  storey  containing  a 
Library  for  the  use  of  students  in  Civil  Law  who  frequented  the 
adjacent  Hall,  once  called  Broadgates,  but  converted  in  16 14  into 

33.  Pembroke  College,  endowed  by  Thomas  Tesdale,  Esq., 
and  Richard  Wightwick,  B.D.,  and  named  after  William,  Earl  of 
Pembroke,  then  Chancellor  of  the  University,  with  whose  consent 
the  change  was  made.  Camden  the  antiquary,  Beaumont  the  dra- 
matist, and  Pym  the  puritan,  were  members  of  Broadgates  Hall. 

The  most  conspicuous  memory  associated  with  Pembroke  College  is  that  of 
Dr.  Johnson  ;  his  rooms  were  on  the  second  floor  over  the  entrance-gateway. 
In  the  Library  they  have  his  bust  by  Bacon,  and  in  the  Hall  his  portrait  by 
Reynolds,  while  some  of  his  college  exercises  and  prayers  in  manuscript  are 
treasured  among  the  archives.  Yet  Johnson,  with  all  his  learning  and  genius, 
was  obliged,  through  want  of  means,  to  leave  Oxford  without  taking  a  degree. 
George  Whitefield  the  preacher,  Blackstone  the  lawyer,  Shenstone  the  poet, 
Sir  Thomas  Hrowne  the  metaphysician,  and  many  other  worthies  were  members 
of  Pembroke  College. 

Almost  all  the  present  buildings  are  quite  modern.  The 
Chapel,  a  fair  specimen  of  the  heavy  classic  of  the  Georgian 
period,  was  begun  in  1728,  the  year  of  Dr.  Johnson's  entrance 
into  the  college,  and  consecrated  by  Bp.  Potter  in  1732. 

Its  interior,  hitherto  plain  even  to  ugliness,  was  in  1885  transformed  into 
"a  thing  of  beauty,"  from  designs  by  Mr.  C.  E.  Kemp,  the  decorator  of  the 
Pusey  Chapel  (page  82).    The  Reredos  consists  of  beautifully  veined  pale  marble 


Post  Office.— City  Buildings.— Carfax.  71 

columns  enclosing  a  fine  painting  copied  from  a  Rubens  at  Antwerp,  over  a 
super-altar  of  carved  alabaster.  The  windows  are  filled  with  stained  glass,  and 
the  walls  and  ceiling  glow  with  gold  and  colours. 

In  1829-30  the  N.  front  of  the  college  and  other  portions  were 

altered  to  the  Gothic  style;  in  1854-6  a  West  wing  was  built, 

the  Fellows'  buildings  were  added,  and  the  Library,  formerly  used 

as  a  Hall,  was  greatly  improved.     The  new  Hall,  facing  it,  erected 

in  1848,  is  one  of  the  finest  refectories  in  Oxford.     Its  stained 

glass  windows  bear  the  arms  of  benefactors,  and  there  are  several 

portraits  on  its  walls.     The  fine  lawn,  and  the  luxurious  growth  of 

creepers  on  the  walls,  give  this  quadrangle  a  very  pretty  effect. 

The  old  Almshouses  in  St.  Aldate's,  opposite  Christ  Church,  originally 
founded  by  Cardinal  Wolsey.  but  not  completed  till  1834,  have  now  (1889) 
been  annexed  to  Pembroke  College.  In  Pembroke-street,  hard  by,  is  situate 
St.  Aldate's  Rectory,  with  a  large  Room  much  used  for  meetings  of  religious  and 
philanthropic  societies. 

Pursuing  our  course  up  St.  Aldate's-street,  we  pass  on  our  left  the 

34.  Post  Office,  a  handsome  edifice  in  modern  Gothic  style, 
completed  in  1880.*  Still  higher  up,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
street,  we  come  to  a  group  of  Municipal  buildings,  comprising 

35.  The  Town  Hall  (1754),  on  the  upper  floor;  on  the 
ground  floor,  a  Public  Library  and  Reading  Room  (established 
1854,  and  open  free  daily  to  strangers  as  well  as  residents),  with 
offices  for  the  Town  Clerk,  &c. 

In  the  rear  are  the  Council  Chamber,  containing  several  portraits  ;  the  Police 
Court ;  JVixofi's  Grammar  School  for  sons  of  freemen,  founded  in  1658  by  John 
Nixon,  an  Alderman  of  the  city,  but  now  disused  and  falling  into  decay  ;  also  a 
spacious  Corn  Exchange,  erected  1865,  and  used  not  only  on  market  days 
by  the  corn-dealers,  but  for  political  meetings  musical  entertainments,  &c.  A 
few  steps  northward,  we  arrive  at  the  spot  (X  in  Plan)  called 

Carfax    (from    the     Latin,    quatuor  furcte ;    French,   gnatre 

fourches).     The  two  main  thoroughfares,  running  N.  to  S.  and  E.  to 

*  For  time  of  despatch  and  delivery  of  mails,  &c,  see  Alden's  Oxford  Almanack,  price  id, 


72  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

W.,  here  cross  at  right  angles.     At  Carfax  stood  in  olden  time  the 

picturesque  Conduit  erected  in  1610  by  Otho  Nicholson  for  the 

supply  of  the  city  with  water.      It  was  taken  down  in  1787,  and 

removed  to  Nuneham  Park.*     At  the  N.W.  corner  stands 

36.  St.  Martin's  (Carfax),  the  City  Church,  occupying  the 

site  of  the  earliest  parish  church  in  Oxford  of  which  there  is  any 

record.     It  was  granted  in  1034  by  Canute  to  the  Benedictine 

monks  of  Abingdon,  and  from  time  immemorial  has  been  identified 

with  municipal  affairs :  the  port-mote  or  town's  meeting  was  held 

in  the  churchyard  until  Henry  II. 's  reign,  and  civic  business  was 

transacted  on  this  spot  for  many  centuries  later ;   while  in   the 

mediaeval  battles  between  "  town  "  and  "  gown,"  St.  Martin's  was 

the  rallying-place  for  the  citizens,  as  St.  Mary's  (20)  was  for  the 

students.     The  tower,  recently  restored,  is  probably  of  the  time  of 

Edward  III.,  and,  with  a  font  of  the  same  date,  is  the  only  remnant 

of  the  older  church,  which  was  rebuilt  1830-32. 

In  the  year  1586,  when  preachers  were  scarce,  and  a  Romish  reaction  was 
feared,  the  corporation  of  the  city  appointed  lectureships  at  Carfax,  contempo- 
raneously with  the  institution  of  the  University  sermons  at  St.  Mary's  (20)  ; 
and  the  church  has  since  that  date  been  attended  every  Sunday  by  the  Mayor 
and  Corporation  in  their  robes.  At  the  E.  end  of  the  old  church  were  two 
figures  which  struck  the  chimes  with  hammers.  These  "quarter-boys,"  as 
they  were  called,  are  now  preserved  with  other  relics  in  the  Mayor's  Parlour  at 
the  Town  Hall  (35).  There  was  formerly  also  a  covered  shed  at  the  E.  end, 
built  or  rebuilt  in  1546,  called  "  Pennyless  bench."  Becoming  a  resort  for 
idle  and  disorderly  people,  it  was  removed  in  1747  ;  but  to  this  day  the  spot  is 
a  favourite  rendezvous  of  "  pennyless  "  loungers.  It  is  proposed  shortly  to 
demolish  the  church  for  the  improvement  of  the  thoroughfare,  the  traffic  at 
"  Carfax  "  being  often  dangerously  congested. 

Proceeding  \V.,  down  Queen-street,  and  passing  on  our  right  a 

new  and  handsome  Temperance  Hotel,  called  the  "  Wilberforce" 

we  arrive  at  a  point  (near  the  site  of  the  West  Gate)  where  four 

streets  meet — Castle  street,  leading-  to  the  Castle  (69),  formerly 

•  See  Appendix,  "  Old  Oxford,"  page  114. 


New  Road  Chapel.— New  Inn  Hall, 


73 


the  W.  entrance  to  the  city  (in  which  are  the  new  "  barracks  "  of 
the  Salvation  Army,  opened  1888) ;  the  New  Road,  leading  to 
the  railway  stations;  St.  Ebbe's-street,  to  the  left  (see  72);  New- 
Inn-Hall-street,  to  the  right. 

The  latter,  once  known  as  "Seven  Deadly  Sins  lane,"  now  abounds  with 
places  of  worship,  of  which,  by  a  curious  coincidence,  there  are  seven  between 
New  Road  Chapel  (37)  at  its  southern,  and  George  Street  Chapel  (43)  facing 
its  northern  extremity,  inclusive. 

Nearly  at  the  cor- 
ner, beyond  the  dis- 
used burying  ground 
ofSt.  Peter-le-Bailey's 
(see  39),  is  situated 
the  oldest  Noncon- 
formist place  of  wor- 
ship in  Oxford, — 

37.  New  Road 
Chapel.  Thechurch 
was  re-constituted  in 
1780  by  a  union  of 
Presbyterians  with  an 
older  body  of  Baptists 
founded  in  16 18.  The  present  building  was  opened  in  1721, 
and  enlarged  and  improved  in  1819  and  1865.  On  the  west  side 
of  New-Inn-Hall-street  is  a  Meeting  Boom  for  the  "Brethren/' 
erected  1877,  and  a  few  yards  N.  a  building  till  lately  known  as 

33.  New  Inn  Hall,  one  of  the  old  "inns"  or  halls  for 
students,  formerly  called  Trilleck's  Inn.  This  inn  was  purchased 
in  1369  by  William  of  Wykeham,  and  by  him  conveyed  to  New 
College  (12),  by  which  society  it  was  rebuilt  in  1460.     During  the 


NEW    ROAD    CHAPEL- 


74  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

Civil  War,  New  Inn  Hall  was  used  by  Charles  I.  as  a  mint,  in 
which  money  was  coined  from  the  liberal  contributions  of  college 
plate.  A  new  wing  was  added  in  1832  ;  and  a  Chapel  for  the 
use  of  students  was  erected  in  1868  by  the  late  Principal,  Dr. 
Cornish,  at  whose  decease  in  1887  the  Hall  ceased  to  have  an 
independent  existence,  and  it  is  now  closed.  Hard  by,  on  land 
anciently  belonging  to  St.  Frideswide  (see  p.  61),  is  the  Church  of 

39.  St.  Peter-le-Bailey,  built  1872-4.  The  original  site 
was  at  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  street,  where  a  church  is  known  to 
have  existed  in  the  twelfth  century,  having  been  granted  to  St. 
Frideswide  in  a  charter  of  Henry  I.'s  reign.  It  derived  its  name 
from  its  situation  within  the  'bailey'  of  the  Castle  (69).  In  1706, 
the  church  fell  down,  and  the  edifice  which  succeeded  it,  erected 
in  1740,  was  demSlished  in  1872  3  for  the  widening  of  the  thorough- 
fare. The  new  church  is  designed  in  the  style  of  the  14th  century, 
having  a  square  tower  with  turret.    Mr.  Basil  Champneys,  architect. 

Opposite  the  church  will  be  observed  an  old  stone  gateway,  a  relic  of  St. 
Marys  College,  founded  in  1435,  but  dissolved  in  Queen  Elizabeth's  time. 
Here  in  1498  Erasmus  prepared  his  edition  of  the  Greek  Testament.  The 
gateway  now  leads  lo  Frewen  Hall,  the  house  occupied  by  the  Prince  of  Wales 
during  his  residence  at  Oxford. 

A  little  further  northward,  the  graceful  and  lofty  spire  of  the 

40.  Wesley  Memorial  Chapel  arrests  our  attention.  In 
the  early  days  of  Methodism,  which  claims  Oxford  as  its  birthplace, 
its  founder  John  Wesley  (see  64)  held  preaching  services  in  a  house 
nearly  opposite  New  Inn  Hall.  In  181 8  a  chapel  was  opened  on 
a  site  in  the  rear  of  the  present  chapel  ;  on  28th  June,  1877,  the 
memorial  stones  of  this  building  were  laid  ;  and  dedication  services 
were  held  on  the  nth  October,  1878.  The  chapel  was  designed 
by  Mr.  C.  Bell  in  the  Early  Decorated  style,  and  forms  a  con- 


Methodist  Chapels.— Union  Society. 


75 


spicuous  addition  to  the  architectural  beauties  of  the  city.  A  very 
efficient  School  for  Boys  is  conducted  in  school  and  class-rooms 
at  the  rear ;  and  the  old  chapel  is  now  divided  into  lecture-rooms, 
&c,  a  portion  being  occupied  by  the  Central  School  for  Girls. 
Making  a  short  detour  to  the  right,  a  few  steps  bring  us  to  the 

41.  Methodist  Free  Church,  built  1870-1  ;  having  a  large 
room  in  the  basement,  used  as  a  Sunday  School  and  for  lectures,  &c. 
The  society  was 
founded  by  a  se- 
cession from  vthe 
Methodist  body  in 
]849,andhassince 
become  incor- 
porated with  the 
United  Methodist 
Free  Churches. 
Opposite  are  the 
premises  of  the 

42.  Oxford 
Union  Society, 
a    social    literary  oxford  umion  society's  rooms. 

and  debating  Club  for  University  men,  founded  T823.  Its  fiftieth 
anniversary  was  celebrated  in  1873  by  a  public  banquet,  at  which 
speeches  were  delivered  by  many  of  its  most  eminent  members, 
past  and  present,  including  the  Marquis  of  Salisbury  (Chancellor 
of  the  University),  Lord  Selborne,  the  late  Archbp.  Tait,  Cardinal 
Manning,  and  several  leading  members  of  both  parties  in  the  State. 
The  Library,  to  the  right  of  our  engraving,  was  built  in  1856  for  a 
Debating-room,  from  designs  by  Messrs.  Deane  and  Woodward  in 


76  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

the  Early  Decorated  style,  and  is  adorned  with  remarkable  frescoes 
illustrative  of  the  exploits  of  King  Arthur  and  his  Knights,  the 
work  of  the  late  Mr.  D.  G.  Rossetti  and  other  famous  amateurs; 
the  buildings  on  the  left  comprise  a  Smoking-room  and  Reading- 
rooms,  with  other  offices ;  the  Debates  are  now  held  in  a  new  and 
more  spacious  detached  building,  erected  in  1878  from  designs  by 
Mr.  A.  Waterhouse,  further  to  the  right.  The  society  numbers 
over  1,000  members,  besides  some  6,000  life -members.  At  night 
the  Debating-room  is  brilliantly  illuminated  with  the  electric  light. 

Retracing  a  few  steps,  and  resuming  our  northward  course,  we 
notice  on  our  right  the 

Liberal  Hall,  opened  on  9th  Jan.,  1879,  by  Sir  W.  Harcourt, 
and  now  the  head-quarters  of  the  Oxford  Reform  Club  j  on  our  left 
the  Engine  House  of  the  Volunteer  Fire  Brigade ;  and  facing  us  the 

43.  Congregational  Church,  built  in  1832  in  the  Early 
English  style,  and  improved  in  1S60.  In  the  basement  is  a 
School-room,  and  at  the  rear,  entered  from  Gloucester  Green,  is  a 
well  designed  building,  erected  1868,  in  which  is  conducted  the 
Central  School  for  Boys,  under  the  control  of  a  committee  of  citizens 
and  members  of  the  University.     Nearly  opposite  the  Chapel  is  the 

43a.  Oxford  High  School  for  Boys,  a  handsome  and 
picturesque  structure,  one  of  the  most  effective  designs  of  its 
talented  and  popular  architect,  Mr.  T.  G.  Jackson. 

This  enterprise  was  inaugurated  at  a  public  meeting  held  9th  Jan.  1878  ; 
the  first  stone  of  the  building  was  formally  laid  by  the  late  Prince  Leopold  on 
the  13th  April,  18S0;  and  it  was  publicly  opened  on  15th  September,  1881. 
The  site  and  a  large  endowment  were  given  by  the  City  of  Oxford  ;  and  the 
governing  body  of  the  school  comprises  representatives  of  the  City  and  Univer- 
sity. Several  scholarships  have  been  founded  by  private  beneficence  ;  the  late 
Prof.  T.  II,  Green  was  one  of  the  governors  and  a  generous  donor  to  the  school. 


St.  George's  Church. — Worcester  College.      77 

Higher  up  George-street,  adjoining  an  old  terrace  (1661),  is  the 
43£.   New  Theatre,  opened  in  February,  1S86;  Mr.  H.  G. 
W.  Drinkwater,  architect.     The  Theatre  seats  about  goo  persons, 
and  is  well  lighted  and  ventilated.     Lower  down  is 

44.  St.  George's  Church,  built  1849,  as  a  Chapel  of  Ease 

for  the  parish  of  St.  Mary  Magdalen  (59). 

Behind  the  church,  accessible  through  a  narrow  lane  lower  down  the  street, 
is  Gloucester  Green,  where  a  Cattle  Market  is  periodically  held  :  commodious 
bindings,  pens,  &c,  for  the  accommodation  of  dealers,  have  been  recently  con- 
structed. At  its  W.  end  stands  a  parochial  boys'  school :  at  the  E.  end  is  the 
Central  Boys'  School,  mentioned  p.  76  :  the  City  Gaol  (erected  1789,  demolished 
1S79)  occupied  the  centre.  At  the  South- West  angle  a  neat  brick  and  stone 
building  was  erected  in  1887  by  Mr.  Bruton,  architect,  for  Cutler  Boulter V 
Medical  Dispensary.     An  outlet  at  the  N.W.  corner  leads  to 

45.  Worcester  College,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  institution 
called  Gloucester  Hall,  founded  in  1283  by  John 
Gifford,  Baron  of  Brimesfield,  for  Benedictine  monks 

fl  from  Gloucester.  The  Hall  was  in  1560  conveyed 
K^.'^N^rjl  to  the  President  and  Fellows  of  St.  John's  College 
(55),  and  was  then  known  as  St.  John  Baptist's  Hall. 
After  long  decay,  it  was  refounded  in  17 13  by  Sir 
arms  of  Thomas  Ccokes,  of  Bentley  Pauncefoot,  Worcester- 
shire, Tor  the  education  of  students  from  his  own 
county.  In  1864-70  the  interior  of  the  Chapel  was  gorgeously  deco- 
rated in  the  Romanesque  style,  with  painting,  gilding,  alabaster, 
marbles,  and  mosaics,  after  designs  by  the  late  Mr.  Burges.  The 
decoration  forms  a  complete  scheme  illustrative  of  the  Te  Deum  and 
the  Benedicite — Man  and  Nature  uniting  in  Divine  worship.  The 
beautiful  volumes  of  the  Old  and  New  Testament  on  the  lectern 
will  reward  a  close  inspection.  Connected  with  the  Chapel  by  a 
stone-vaulted  piazza,  is  the  Hall,  a  fine  room,  elegantly  decorated, 
and  adorned  with  portraits  :  and  over  the  arcade  is  the  Library. 


78  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

containing  a  valuable  collection  of  books.     On  the  S.  (left  hand) 

side  of  the  large  Quadrangle  are  some  vestiges  of  old  Gloucester 

Hall,  in  the  form  of  separate  monastic  houses.     Nearly  at  the  S.W. 

corner  we  enter  through  a  narrow  arch  the  Gardens,  usually 

optn  free  to  the  public,  affording  pleasant  shaded  walks  in  summer, 

and  good  skating  on  the  lake  in  winter. 

The  street  leading  eastward  from  Worcester  College  to  the  Randolph  Hotel 
is  named  Beaumont-street,  from  the  royal  palace  of  Beaumont,  built  by  Henry 
I.,  the  residence  of  Henry  II.  and  other  monarchs,  and  the  birthplace  of 
Richard  Cceur-de-Lion,  which  stood  near  this  spot. 

Leaving  Worcester  College,  we  pursue  our  way  N.  along  Wralton- 

street,  whence  the  second  turning  on  the  left  leads  to  the 

46.  Scotch  Church,  built  in  1879  by  tne  late  Rev-  H-  C 
B.  Bazely,  B.C.L.,  "the  Oxford  Evangelist,"  whose  memoir,  pub- 
lished by  Macmillan,  is  of  unusual  interest.  Since  Mr.  Bazely's 
death  it  has  been  used  as  a  meeting-room  by  the  "Friends." 
Farther  down  Walton-street,  we  observe  on  the  right 

47.  St.  Paul's,  a  district  church,  built  in  the  Ionic  order  by 

subscription  in   1836  :  an  apse  has  since  been  added. 

The  memorial  window  to  Canon  Ridgway,  representing  the  Sermon  on  the 
Mount,  contains  among  its  figures  portraits  of  the  Canon  and  some  of  his  con- 
temporaries.    Five  other  memorial  windows  were  added  in  1888. 

Nearly  opposite  the  church  are  the  extensive  range  of  buildings 

completed  in  1830  for  the 

48.  Clarendon  Press,  or  University  Printing  Office,  removed 
here  from  the  old  Clarendon  Building  in  Broad-street  (7).  This 
establishment  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.  The  S.  wing,  de- 
nominated the  "Bible  Side"  is  devoted  principally  to  the  printing 
of  Bibles  and  Prayer  Books,  for  sale  at  the  depots  of  the  Press  in 
Oxford,  London,  and  Edinburgh,  as  well  as  for  the  British  and 
Foreign  Bible  Society  and  the  Society  for  Promoting  Christian 
Knowledge.     The  issue  of  the  Revised  Bible  in  1881  and  1885 


(fmu 


Clarendon  Press.— St.  Barnabas,  79 

gave  striking  proof  of  the  resources  of  this  establishment.     In  the 

N.  wing — generally  called  the  "  Learned  Side," — works  of  a  learned 

and  educational  character  are  chiefly  produced. 

In  the  large  Machive-room,  200  ft.  by  jo  ft.,  and  rooms  adjoining,  55  printing 
machines  and  five  roding  machines  are  at  work  by  steam  power.  There  are 
also  stereotype,  electrotype,  and  type  Foundries,  engineer's  department,  ink  and 
roller  manufactories,  ware-rooms,  drying-room,  &c.  A  new  feiture  is  the  drying 
of  printed  sheets,  for  books  which  are  required  quickly,  by  means  of  hot  air  kept 
in  motion  by  a  steam  screw-propeller  4  ft.  in  diameter.  There  is  also  a  photo- 
graphic department,  in  which  fac-similes  of  MSS.  and  other  illustrations  are 
printed  by  various  processes.  In  the  Press  are  preserved  the  matrices  for  founts 
of  Greek,  old  English,  and  Oriental  type,  some  of  which  were  presented  to  the 
University  in  1669  by  Bp.  Fell.  Stereotype  and  electrotype  plates,  and  formes 
in  movable  type,  are  kept  in  a  fire-proofroom  specially  built  in  1886,  which  is 
the  largest  in  England.  In  the  quadrangle  are  the  residences  of  Mrs.  Combe, 
the  widow  of  a  former  superintendent  (mentioned  below),  and  the  present 
Controller  of  the  Press,  Mr.  Horace  Hart,  upon  whom  devolves  the  supreme 
management  in  conjunction  with  a  board  of  Delegates  appointed  by  the  Uni- 
versity, and  from  whom  orders  for  admission  can  be  procured.  The  late 
venerable  Superintendent  of  the  Press,  Mr.  Thomas  Combe,  founded  a  district 
Church  dedicated  to 

49.  St.  Barnabas,  opened  Oct.  19,  1869.  It  is  situated  on 
the  E.  bank  of  the  canal,  near  the  \V.  end  of  Cardigan-street,  in  the 
populous  neighbourhood  called  Jericho  ;  and  is  remarkable  as 
a  type  of  the  Lombardic  style  of  architecture,  built  in  the  basilica 
form,  with  apsidal  East  end  and  lofty  detached  campanile.  Archi- 
tect, Mr.  Blomfield.  The  frequent  services  in  this  church  are 
distinguished  for  high  ritual. 

The  altar  is  canopied  with  an  elaborate  "  baldachino,"  and  before  it  is 
suspended  a  handsome  cross  of  open-work  metal,  set  with  brilliants.  Portraits 
of  Bp.  Wilberforce,  the  founder,  and  others,  are  introduced  in  the  carved 
capitals  of  the  pillars. 

Further  north  is  St.  Sepulchre's  Cemetery,  with  a  neat  chapel ;  and  nearly 
opposite  this  is  Walton  Street  Wesleyan  Chapel,  built  in  1883.  Passing  along 
Kingston  road  to  its  N.  extremity,  at  the  W.  end  of  St.  Margaret's  road  we  reach 

St.  Margaret's  Church,  opened  in  1884,  but  at  present 
incomplete.  It  is  connected  with  SS.  Philip  and  James'  Church 
(51),  by  whose  clergy  the  services  are  conducted.     The  E.  window 


80  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

is  the  work  of  amateurs  ;  and  the  clerestory  windows,  by  Burlison 
and  Grylls,  contain  effigies  of  local  saints. 

Extending  to  the  W.  and  X.W.  of  this  district  is  a  large  level  space  known  as 
Port  Meadow  (i.e.  the  '"Town  Meadow"),  the  possession  of  the  freemen  of  the 
city  of  Oxford  from  the  time  of  the  Domes  lay  survey.  Biusey,  associated  with 
St.  Frideswide  (see  29),  and  Godstawy  the  burial  place  of  Fair  Rosamond,  are 
on  its  borders.     Eastward,  to  the  south  of  Observatory-street  (see  Plan)  is  the 

50.  Radcliffe  Observatory,  built  1772-5,  from  funds 
applied  to  the  purpose  by  the  trustees  of  Dr.  Radcliffe  (see  18,  21, 
and  53),  on  a  piece  of  land,  nine  acres  in  extent,  presented  by  the 
third  Duke  of  Marlborough.  The  octagonal  tower  is  copied  from 
the  Temple  of  the  Winds  at  Athens,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  globe, 
borne  by  figures  of  Hercules  and  Atlas.  The  buildings  comprise 
a  Library  and  Lecture  Room,  and  contain  some  of  the  best  modern 
astronomical  instruments ;  there  is  also  a  dwelling-house  for  the 
Observer,  who  is  appointed  by  the  Radcliffe  Trustees.  Among  the 
men  most  distinguished  in  astronomical  science  who  have  held 
the  post  of  Radcliffe  Observer,  may  be  mentioned  Professor  Rigaud 
and  Mr.  Johnson.  The  grounds  are  entered  by  a  gateway  in  the 
Woodstock  road,  and  not  far  northward,  on  the  opposite  side,  is 

51.  SS.  Philip  and  James'  Church  (erected  i860,  spire 
added  1866).  The  design  is  characteristic  of  its  architect,  Mr. 
Street,  being  in  the  Early  Decorated  style  with  some  continental 
modifications.  Columns  of  polished  granite  divide  the  broad 
nave  from  the  aisles  ;  the  apsidal  chancel  is  roofed  with  stone,  and 
its  reredos  and  other  decorations  are  tasteful  and  elaborate.  South 
of  the  church  is  a  monastic-looking  edifice  known  as 

52.  The  Convent,  1866-8  (Buckeridge,  architect),  occupied 
by  an  Anglican  sisterhood  styled  "  The  Society  of  the  Holy  and 
Undivided  Trinity." 

The  society  was  established  for  the  threefold  purpose  of  prayer,  work  under 


Wycliffe  Hall.— Ladies'  Halls.— Infirmary.      31 

the  direction  of  the  clergy,  and  preparing  young  girls  for  various  station*  in 
life.  It  conducts  a  boarding  school  for  young  ladies;  an  orphanage,  chiefly 
for  Oxford  children,  who  are  triined  for  lo<ne<:ic  service  ;  and  a  day-school 
with  Kindergarten  ;  besides  evening  classes,  Sunday  classes,  &c. 

The  houses  in  this  neighbourhood,  in  ard  near  the  Bmbury  and  Woodstock 
roads  and  bordering  on  the  Parks,  built  loi  the  most  part  in  the  villa  style,  are 
occup;ed  chiefly  by  professors  and  resident  members  of  the  University,  and  the 
wealthier  class  of  the  citizens.  On  the  Banbury-roady  nearly  facing  the  E.  end 
of  Bevington-road  (see  Plan)  is  Wykeham  Hcuse,  occupied  during  his  residence 
at  Oxford  by  the  late  Prince  Leopold,  Dike  of  Albany,  whose  sudden  death 
(Mar.  28th,  1884)  was  so  universally  lamented  (see  p.  63).    The  next  house  S.  is 

52#.  Wycliffe  Hall,  a  Theological  Institution  for  candidates 
for  Holy  Orders,  established  on  Evangelical  Church  principles  in 
1877  :  a  Chapel  and  other  buildings  were  opened  31st  Jan.,  1882. 

52b.  Lady  Margaret  Hall  (founded  1879)  and  St.  Hugh 
Hall  (founded  1886)  for  ladies,  are  situated  in  Norham  Gardens, 
branching  from  this  road. 

Still  further  southward,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  same  road,  is  a  red  brick  house 
in  the  style  known  as  "  Queen  Anne,"  built  in  1879  for  the 

52c.  High  School  for  Girls.    Mr.  T.  G.  Jackson,  architect. 

On  the  Woodstock-road,  adjoining  the  south  side  of  the  Observatory  (50) 
grounds,  is  the 

53.  Radcliffe  Infirmary,  opened  in  1770.  This  institution 
has  probably  been  productive  of  more  truly  beneficent  results  than 
any  other  of  the  foundations  of  Dr.  Radcliffe  (see  Nos.  18,  21,  50). 

Of  late  years  many  considerable  additions  and  improvements  have  been  made 
in  the  buildings  and  arrangements,  including  a  new  Fever  Ward  opened  in  1870. 
It  is  mainly  supported  by  subscriptions,  donations,  and  colllections  at  churches 
and  chapels  ;  from  the  latter  source  the  income  has  been  augmented  by  the 
establishment  in  1873  of  a  special  Hospital  Sun  lay  Fund.  'I  he  Hegant  Chapel 
on  the  X.  side  of  the  grounds  was  built  in  1864  at  the  cost  of  the  late  Mr.  T. 
Combe,  of  the  University  Press  (4S).      A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Infirmary  is 

53tf.  Somerville  Hall  for  ladies,  opened  1879,  and  enlarged 
in  1881.  In  1886-7  a  large  new  block  of  buildings  was  erected  to 
the  west  of  the  older  house,  from  designs  by  Mr.  H.  Wilkinson 
Moore,  for  the  accommodation  of  additional  students. 

1890.]  € 


82  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

53£.   St.  Aloysius'  (Roman  Catholic)  Church  and  Presbytery. 

The  Church  was  opened  in  1875  by  Cardinal  Manning.  It  is  a  lofty  and 
well-proportioned  building  in  the  Early  English  style,  with  apodal  sanctuary  at 
its  W.  end,  now  richly  a  1  >rned  with  a  Rereios  comprising  some  fifty  figures  of 
saints  in  canopied  niches.  The  splendid  hisrh  altar  was  presented  by  the 
Marquis  of  Bute  ;  and  a  beautifully  carved  stone  pulpit  was  added  by  sub- 
scription in  1888.     On  the  other  side  of  the  road  stands 

54.  St.  Giles'  Church,  rebuilt  in  the  13th  century.  The 
windows  of  the  tower  present  an  unusual  and  interesting  example 
of  early  "  plate  tracery,"  a  small  lancet  being  pierced  above  two 
others  under  a  pointed  arch.  About  the  year  1120  there  was  a 
church  on  this  spot  dedicated  to  St.  Giles,  who  was  regarded  as 
the  patron  saint  of  churches  so  situated  beyond  the  gates  of  towns. 
The  vicarage  was  instituted  by  Hugh,  Bp.  of  Lincoln,  in  1200; 
the  living  being  vested  in  the  nunnery  of  Godstow,  near  Oxford. 
It  was  subsequently  purchased  by  Sir  Thomas  White,  founder  of 
St.  John's  College  (55),  to  which  it  still  belongs. 

N.  of  the  Church  a  Paiochial  Room  has  recently  been  built  from  designs  in 
the  Tudor  style  by  Messrs.  Wilkinson  and  Moore. 

At  St.  Giles'  Church  the  two  roads  unite,  and  form  the  broad  thoroughfare 
of  St.  Giles' -street,  one  of  the  finest  approaches  to  the  city.  The  trees  on  either 
side,  though  sadly  injured  by  severe  gales,  still  convey  the  impression  rather  of 
a  Parisian  boulevard  than  the  street  of  an  English  town  ;  while  the  general 
effect  is  heightened  bv  the  assemblage  of  public  buildings  at  the  S.  extremity, 
conspicuous  among  which  is  the  Martyrs'  Memorial  (58). 

Leaving  St.  Giles'  Church,  and  proceeding  S.,  we  may  notice  on  our  right 
the  premises  No.  61,  St.  Giles'-street,  now  occupied  by  the 

Pusey  Memorial  House,  opened  in  1884  by  the  late  Bp. 
Mackarness.  The  institution  comprises  a  Theological  Library,  of 
which  the  collection  of  the  late  Dr.  Pusey  forms  the  nucleus,  and 
(on  the  upper  storey)  a  Chapel,  decorated  by  Mr.  C.  E.  Kemp. 

The  object  of  its  promoters  was  to  secure  by  trust  an  institution  manned  by  a 
body  of  clergy  who  would  devote  themselves  to  the  study  and  teaching  of 
theology,  so  that  dogmatic  teaching  may  be  perpetuated  in  a  place  which  must 
always  be  a  centre  of  intellectual  and  moral  life. 

On  our  left,  half-hidden  behind  the  elms  on  its  terrace  walk,  is 


St.  John's  College.  83 


55.  St.  John's  College.  This  venerable  building  was 
originally  a  house  of  Cistercian  monks,  made  over  by  them  to 
Abp.  Chichele  (see  t8),  and  by  him  converted  into  St  Bernard's 
College  in  1436.  The  N.,  S.,  and  W.  sides  of  the  first  quadrangle 
form  portions  of  this  ancient  foundation. 

At  the  dissolution  of  monasteries  Henry  VII T.  presented  the  house  to  Christ 
Church  The  Litter  society  conveyed  it  n  1555  to  Sir  Thomas  White,  a  native 
of  Rickmans  worth,  knight  and  alde>man  of  the  city  ol  London,  by  *h"m,  under 
a  license  granted  by  Kinn  Philip  and  Queen  Mary,  it  was  devoted  as  "  a  (.  ollege 
for  divinity,  philosophy,  and  the  arts.  10  the  praise  and  honour  of  G<  d,  the 
Virgin  Mary,  and  St  lohn  the  Baptist.''  White  was  a  clothier,  and  a  benefactor  of 
Merchant  Taylors'  School,  whence  many  ol  the  scholars  of  St.  John's  aie  elected. 

Entering  the  hoary'gateway,  under  the  old  statue  of  St.  Bernard, 
we  find  ourselves  in  the  First  or  original  Quad- 
rangle. On  our  left  is  the  Hall,  the  ancient 
refectory  of  St.  Bernard's,  built  in  1502,  but  com- 
pletely metamorphosed  in  the  Georgian  period. 
It  contains  portraits  of  the  Founder,  Abps.  Laud 
and  Juxon,  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  King  George  III., 
&c.  Over  the  fireplace  is  a  singular  picture  of  arms  ofSt.  john's. 
St.  John  Baptist,  stained  in  scagliola  by  Lambert  Gorius.  Beneath 
the  Hall  is  a  vaulted  crypt  of  the  15th  century,  in  good  preserva- 
tion. Close  by  is  the  Kitchen,  which  with  its  upperstoreys  was 
built  in  161 3.  East  of  the  Hall  is  the  Chapel,  consecrated  in  1530, 
altered  at  the  Restoration,  restored  1843,  and  re-decorated  1872-3. 
At  its  N.E.  angle  is  a  beautiful  little  Mortuary  Chapel,  built  in  1662 
by  Dr.  Baylie  to  receive  the  remains  of  his  son.  Sir  Thomas 
W7hite  the  f  >under,  and  Abps.  Laud  and  Juxon,  are  buried  beneath 
the  communion  table.  Through  a  passage  with  elegant  vaulted 
ceiling  we  reach  the  Second  Quadrangle,  completed  about  1635  Dv 
Archbp.  Laud  (see  20),  then  President  of  the  college.     We  cannot 


84 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


fail  to  admire  the  picturesque  effect  of  the  colonnades  or  piazzas 
designed  in  the  style  of  the  Renaissance,  probably  by  Inigo  Jones. 
The  bronze  statues  of  King  Charles  I.  and  his  Queen  Henrietta 

Maria,  by  Fanelli,  a  Flor- 
entine, are  also  worthy  of 
notice.  The  S.  and  E. 
sides  of  this  court  are  oc- 
cupied by  the  Library, 
the  £.  wing  of  which  was 
added  by  Laud. 

The  Library  consists  of  two 
fine  rooms,  and  besides  a  good 
collection  of  books  contains  a 
curious  portrait  of  Charles  I., 
with  the  whole  Book  of  Psalms 
written  in  the  lines  of  the  face  ; 
and  some  interesting  relics  of 
At>p.  Laud,  such  as  the  cap 
worn  by  him  at  his  execution, 
his  walking-stick,  diaries,  &c. 
A  nong  the  treasures  are  also 
some  ancient  vestments  and 
ecclesiastical  furniture.  On  the 
30th  August,  1639,  when  Laud 
was  Chancellor  of  the  Univer- 
sity, King  Charles  and  his 
Queen  were  royally  entertained 
in  the  newly-op.-ntd  Library. 

Leaving  this  quad,  by  a 

passage  with  fan-traceried 

roof  and  quaintly  carved 

gateway,  st.  john's  ga-.dens.  doors,  we  enter  through 

an  iron  gate  the  beautiful  Gardens,  open  free  to  the  public.    The 

extremely  picturesque  E.  or  Garden  Front  of  the  Library  affords 

many  a  charming  subject  for  the  artist's  pencil. 


St.  John's.— The  Taylor  Institution. 


85 


The  Gardens  occupy  about  five  acres,  and  exhibit  the  results  of  centuries  of 
careful  cultivation.  They  have  always  been  a  favourite  resort  of  visitors,  who 
are  much  impressed  with  the  scene  of  quiet  loveliness  which  opens  on  the  view 
in  this  delightful  retreat,  only  a  few  steps  from  the  thoroughfare  of  St.  Giles', 
and  in  the  very  heart  of  the  city.  An  open-air  Masonic  fete  in  these  gardens  is 
usually  one  of  the  most  memorable  features  of  Commemoration  week. 

Amongst  the  worthies  of  St.  John's,  besides  the  three  founders,  as  they  may 
be  called  (Chichele,  White,  and  Laud),  may 

be  mentioned  Abp.  Juxon,  Laud's  successor  ■flb 

for  a  time  in  the  restored  primacy,  Abraham 
Tucker  the  metaphysician,  Shirley  the 
dramatist,  and  Wheatly  the  divine. 

In  18801  the  college  was  en- 
larged by  a  considerable  extension 
of  the  front  northward,  in  general 
harmony  with  its  older  portions. 

The  conspicuous  building  nearly 
opposite  the  S.  end  of  St.  John's  is 

56.  The  Taylor  Institution, 
forming  the  E.  wing  of  a  grand  pile 
in  the  Ionic  order,  of  which  the  cen- 
tral portion  and  W.  wing,  entered 
from  Beaumont-street,  are  denomi- 
nated the  University  Galleries. 

This  institution  was  founded  and  endowed 
by  Sir  Robert  Taylor,  an  eminent  architect 
and  alderman  of  London,  who  died  in  1792, 
leaving  by  will  a  considerable  sum  for  the 
erecting  of  a  proper  edifice,  and  for  estab- 
lishing a  foundation  "  for  the  teaching  and 
improving  the  European  languages."  The 
building,  erected  1845  8  from  an  admirable  design  by  Cockerell,  is  entered  from 
St.  Giles'  between  columns  surmounted  by  allegorical  figures  of  France,  Italy, 
Germany,  and  Spain.  It  comprises  a  spacious  Library  (containing  an  excellent 
collection  of  philological  works)  and  Reading  Room,  open  free  to  members  of 
the  University  from  1 1  to  5,  and  also  in  the  evenings  during  Term;  besides 
several  Lecture-rooms,  and  apartments  for  a  Librarian.  The  Taylorian  Profes- 
sorship of  Modern  European  Languages  has  been  superseded  by  a  University 


WINDOW   IN   GARDEN    FrtONT, 

st.  John's  college. 


86 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


Professorship  of  Comparative  Philology,  held  hy  the  distinguished  Max  Muller'; 
and  connected  with  this  institution  are  Teachers  of  the  French,  German, 
Italian,  and  Spanish  languages,  whose  lectures  are  open  to  University  men 
for  a  small  fee  ;  also  annual  open  scholarships  and  exhibitions. 

The  Uni- 
versity 
Galleries, 
entered  by 
the  grand 
portico,  op- 
posite the 
Randolph 
Hotel(57), 
are  open  to 
the  public 
from  12  till 
4  daily  (fee 
2d. ;  Satur- 
day sfree)* 
They  were 
erected 
partly  from 
a  bequest 
of  Dr.  Ran- 
dolph, for 
the    recep- 

the  taylo*  institution.  tion  of  the 

Pomfret  Statues,  and  for  paintings  and  other  curiosities  which 
might  from  time  to  time  be  left  to  the  University.     Recent  ex- 

*  Students  who  have  permission  from  the  Lincoln  Professor  of  Archaeology  or  from  the 
Prvfteeor  of  Fine  Art,  axe  admitted  from  io  to  iz.    Closed  during  August. 


The  University  Galleries. 


87 


tensive  enlargements  give  much  additional  space  for  the  collections, 
providing  accommodation  also  for  the  Professor  of  Archaeology. 

In  the  principal  Sculpture  Gallery  on  the  ground  floor  are  a  large  number 
of  Casts  from  the  Antique,  s  i  arranged  as  to  illustrate  the  various  periods  of  Greek 
art,  as  well  as  most  ol  the  models  of  Sir  Francs  Chant  ny's  works,  presented 
to  the  University  by  his  widow.  Here,  and  in  the  basement,  are  also  gathered 
together  the  valuable  cla>sic  "marbles,"  hitherto  scattered  in  diffeient 
repositories  and  in  some  cases  hidden  in  obscure  and  out-of-the-way  corners. 


THE   RANDOLPH    HOTEL, 

To  the  Pomfret  Statues  (presented  by  the  Dowager  Countess  of  Pomfret  in  1755) 
are  now  added  the  Arundel  Marbles,  consisting  of  Greek  and  Roman 
inscribed  tablets,  including  the  celebrated  Ia>  ion  Chronicle,  collected  by  Thomas 
Howard,  Earl  of  Arundel,  and  presented  by  his  grandson  (Henry  Howard)  in 
1677.  with  others  given  at  various  dates  by  Selden  (1654),  G.  Wheler  (1676), 
Dawkins,  Rawlinson,  Hyde  Clarke,  &c.  The  sepulchral  and  votive  tablets, 
arranged  at  the  E.  end,  are  of  great  interest.  Here  also  is  a  set  of  electrotypes 
of  Ancient  Coins,  B.C.  700-280.  On  the  first  floor  is  a  Picture  Gallery, 
100  ft.  by  28  ft.,  containing  an  interesting  Art  Collection,  which  is  frequently 


88  Alden's  OxforcTGuide, 

receiving  additions.  Here  are  displayed  some  valuable  original  etchings  by 
Rembrandt,  Vandyck.  &c,  with  curious  p  intsby  Albert  !  Hirer  and  others  from 
the  Douce  Collection  (Bodleian).  There  are  also  some  good  examples  of  the 
early  Italian  painters  and  others.  A  fire -proof  gallery  on  the  same  floor  contains 
the  famous  collection  of  190  original  sketches  by  Michel  Angelo  and  Raffaello, 
purchased  for  ;£7,oco,  the  greater  part  of  which  was  contributed  by  the  Earl  of 
Eldon.  There  are  also  a  number  of  choice  drawings  by  J.  M.  W.  Turner,  the 
gift  of  Mr.  Ruskin  (first  Slade  Professor  of  Art),  who  also  founded,  furnished, 
and  endowed  the  Ruskin  Drawing  School,  which  occupies  the  ground 
floor  of  the  West  Wing,  and  is  enriched  by  a  precious  collection  of  examples 
and  studies  generously  presented  by  Mr.  Ruskin  for  the  use  of  students.  A 
portion  of  the  basement  is  appropriated  to  the  purposes  of  a  School  of  Art  in 
connection  with  the  Science  and  Art  Department.     Opposite  is 

57.  The  Randolph  Hotel,  erected  in  1864,  and  forming 
a  good  example  of  the  adaptation  of  the  Gothic  style  to  domestic 
architecture  (see  p.  87).  During  the  summer  season  its  extensive 
accommodation  is  taxed  to  the  utmost  by  numerous  visitors.  The 
building  on  the  opposite  side  of  St.  Giles'  is  the  West  front  of 
Balliol  College  (60) ;  while  right  before  us  stands  the  exceedingly 
beautiful  Memorial  Cross  known  as 

58.  The  Martyrs'  Memorial,  one  of  the  earliest,  and  justly 
considered  one  of  the  best  works  of  its  eminent  designer,  the  late 
Sir  G.  G.  Scott,  R.A.  The  architect  took  for  his  general  model 
the  crosses  erected  by  King  Edward  I.  in  memory  of  his  Queen 
Eleanor ;  and  it  may  safely  be  said  that  not  one  of  these  surpassed 
the  Martyrs'  Memorial  in  beauty  of  design  or  symmetry  of  pro- 
portions. On  the  N.  face  of  the  base,  the  following  inscription 
tells  in  brief  the  purpose  of  the  structure : — 

"To  the  Glory  of  God,  and  in  grateful  commemoration  of  His  servants, 
Thomas  Cranmer,  Nicholas  Ridley,  Hugh  Latimer.  Prelates  of  the  Church  of 
England,  who,  near  this  spot,  yielded  their  bodies  to  be  burned  :  bearing  witness 
to  the  sacred  truths  which  they  had  affirmed  and  maintained  against  the  errors 
of  the  Church  of  Rome  ;  and  rejoicing  that  to  them  it  was  given  not  only  to 
believe  in  Christ,  but  also  to  suffer  for  His  sake,  This  monument  was  erected 
by  public  subscription  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  God,  mdcccxli." 


Martyrs'  Memorial, 


89 


THE    MARTYRS'    MEMORIAL    AND    BALUOL    OOLLEtfE. 


90  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

The  statues  of  the  three  martyrs  (by  H.  Weekes)  are  strikingly 

characteristic.       Cranmer,  facing   N.,  is  represented  holding  his 

Bible  of  the  greater  volume,  marked  on  its  cover,  "  May,   1541  :" 

this  being  the  first  year  of  the  circulation  of  the  Bible  by  royal 

authority,  for  which  the  Archbishop  had  lonj;  and  earnestly  pleaded. 

The  attitude  of  Ridley's  statue  (E.)  fitly  represents  the  stedfast- 

ness  with  which  he  fought  the  good  fight  of  faith,  and  witnessed  a 

good  confession.     Facing  W.,  his  arms  crossed  meekly  over  his 

breast,  Latimer  appears  stooping  under  the  burden  of  fourscore 

years,  the  very  image  of  submission  to  the  will  of  God  and  holy 

resolution  to  do  it. 

The  first  stone  of  the  Memorial  was  laid  by  Dr.  Plumptre,  then  Master  of 
University  College,  on  the  19th  May,  1841,  when  the  Tractarian  or  Anglo- 
Catholic  movement  was  in  its  early  vigour  ;  and  the  oiiginators  of  the  proposal 
to  erect  in  Oxford  a  memorial  to  the  "Protestant  martyrs"  met  with  much 
opposition.  The  work  was  nevertheless  carried  to  completion,  and  it  has  now 
stood  for  nearly  half-a-century,  a  protest  against  Romish  error,  and  at  the  same 
time  a  witness  to  the  growth  of  that  party  in  the  Church  who  have  been 
zealously  labouring  to  revive  and  popularize  tenets  and  practices  against  which 
the  martyrs  protested  unto  death.     (See  pages  2,  9,  44.) 

59.  St.  Mary  Magdalen  Church,  adjoining,  is  also 
associated  with  the  martyrs,  its  North  Aisle  having  been  rebuilt 
in  the  year  1841  as  a  part  of  the  memorial.  Emblems  of  the 
martyrs  are  used  , in  its  architectural  embellishments;  and  in  the 
interior  is  preserved  the  door  of  the  cell  in  Bocardo*  in  which 
they  were  confined.  The  S.  aisle  was  probably  completed  in 
the  reign  of  Edward  II.  Its  beautiful  open  parapet,  niched 
and  canopied  buttresses,  and  decorated  windows,  were  carefully 
restored  some  years  since.  The  tower  was  rebuilt  in  1511-31, 
of  materials  brought,  it  is  said,  from  Rewley  Abbey.  It  con- 
tains a  fine  peal  of  six  bells,  re-cast  at  the  expense  of  the  late 

*  See  pages  i,  2,  and  99  ;  also  the  Appendix. 


Balliol  College.  91 


Mr.  Cavell,  and  on  the  W,  side  is  a  figure  of  the  patron  saint. 

The  interior  of  this  church  has  lately  been  greatly  improved. 

We  have  now  returned  to  our  original  starting-point  (see  page  i)  ;  but  there 
remain  several  objects  of  much  interest  which  must  be  seen  before  the  visitor 
can  be  said  to  have  completed  his  tour  through  the  city.  So  we  turn  once 
more  into  Broad-street,  and  arrive  in  a  minute  or  two  at  the  gateway  of 

60.  Balliol  College,  the  front  of  which  extends  westward  to 

the  end  of  Broad-street,  and  northward  in  St  Giles's  beyond  the 

Martyrs'  Memorial  (58).     The  grand  S.  front  was  built  in  1867-9 

on  the  site  of  the  old  buildings,  from  designs  by  Waterhouse,  at  the 

expense  of  Miss  Brakenbury,  a  munificent  benefactor,  who  has  also 

endowed  eight  scholarships.     The  plain  classic  portion  W.  of  the 

Master's  house,  called  Fisher's  Buildings,  was  erected  in  1769  and 

refaced  in  1876 ;  the  portion  E.  of  Magdalen  Church  was  built  in 

1825,  and  the  more  northern  front  in  the  Gothic  style  added  1S52-3. 

Balliol  College  was  founded  between  1260  and  1269,  by  Sir  John  de  Balliol, 
father  of  the  Scottish  king  of  that  name.  At  his  death  his  plans  were  carried 
out  by  his  widow  Devorgulla  or  Dervorguilla,  of  Galloway,  whose  original 
statutes,  dated  12S2,  are  still  preserved.  .Balliol  thus  claims  precedence  of  all 
others  as  a  collegiate  foundation,  although  many  years  prior  to  its  establishment 
students  had  been  wont  to  assemble  in  Oxford,  lodging  either  in  private  houses 
or  in  inns  or  halls,  usually  under  the  supervision  of  a  Master  of  Arts. 

Entering  the  First  Quadrangle  under  the  stately  tower,  we  have 
before  us  on  the  N.  side  the  Library  (built  1430-80,  and  refitted 
by  Wyatt  in  1722),  containing  many  early  editions  of  the  Bible, 
with  some  beautiful  illuminated  manuscripts;  and  adjoining  this 
on  the  E.  is  the  elegant  Chapel,  rebuilt  1S56-7  from  Mr.  Butter- 
field's  design.  Its  entrance  doorway,  E.-  window,  alabaster  reredos, 
and  screen  of  iron  and  stone,  are  much  admired.  In  its  windows 
is  preserved  some  original  stained  glass  of  the  14th  century,  as 
well  as  later  Flemish  designs  by  Van  Linge.  On  the  W.  side  of 
the  quadrangle  is  the  old  Dining  Ball,  built  about  1432,  and  now 


92  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


fitted  up  as  a  Library  and  Reading-room  for  undergraduate  mem- 
bers. The  windows  contain  some  interesting  fragments  of  old 
stained  glass,  dated  1533.  A  passage  to  the  left  leads  to  a  fine 
open  space  with  grass-plots,  shaded  with  elms.  On  its  E.  side  we 
have  a  charming  view  of  the  chapel,  and  at  its  N.  end  is  the  very 
handsome  and  lofty  Hall,  opened  1877.  It  is  entered  by  a  flight 
of  steps,  the  doorway  being  surmounted  by  an  ornamented  gable 
with  open  tracery.  On  the  ground-floor  are  the  Buttery,  Common- 
room,  and  Laboratory,  as  well  as  the  Kitchen,  which  communicates 
by  lifts  with  the  Dining  Hall  above. 

Balliol,  comparatively  obscure  until  modern  times,  is  now  highly  distinguished 
for  the  intellectual  attainments  of  its  members,  of  whom  it  usually  furnishes  a 
large  quota  to  the  class  lists.  The  matriculation  examination,  which  has  to  be 
passed  by  candidates  for  admission,  is  unusually  "stiff,"  and  it  is  understood 
that  students  at  Balliol  shall  be  contented  with  nothing  short  of  "honours"  at 
the  University  examinations.  One  cause  of  this  high  standard  is  to  be  found 
in  the  system  of  "open  scholarships"  instituted  here  by  Dr.  Jenkyns,  who 
presided  over  this  college  for  thirty-five  years.  Of  the  numerous  "exhibitions  " 
offered  at  Balliol,  fourteen  were  founded  by  Mr.  Snell,  a  native  of  Ayrshire,  for 
the  benefit  of  students  from  the  University  of  Glasgow.  Other  benefactions  for 
Scottish  students  were  left  by  Bp.  Warner.  Among  the  celebrated  Scotsmen 
who  have  been  thus  introduced  into  a  career  of  eminence,  may  be  mentioned 
Dr.  Adam  Smith,  Lockhart,  Sir  William  Hamilton,  Dr.  Baillie  the  physician, 
I nglis  the  lawyer,  Lord  Moncrieff,  and  Dr.  Tait,  the  late  primate  of  England, 
whose  portrait  will  be  found,  with  several  others,  in  the  Hall.  John  Wycliffe 
the  Reformer  was  a  Fellow  of  this  college,  and  became  Master  about  1360  ;  his 
portrait,  after  the  original  Lutterworth,  is  just  inside  the  Hall  door  (see  14,  20, 
26).  A  recent  number  of  the  Bookseller  notes  the  following  interesting  coinci- 
dences : — "  The  first  translation  of  the  Bible  into  English  was  made  in  1380  by 
John  Wiclif,  Master  of  Balliol  College,  Oxford.  The  first  reduction  in  the  price 
of  printing  the  Bible  was  made  in  1841  by  the  Queen's  printer,  Mr.  William 
Spottiswoode,  who  was  a  fellow  of  Balliol  College.  The  first  penny  edition  of 
the  New  Testament  was  issued  in  1880  by  Mr.  Benjamin  West,  bookbinder,  a 
tenant  of  Balliol."  Humphrey  Duke  of  Gloucester  (see  6,  19),  and  Tunstall, 
Bp.  of  London  and  Durham  ;  the  gentle  Evelyn,  Kyrle,  the  "man  of  Ross" 
immortal i7ed  by  Pope,  and  Southey  the  poet,  are  among  the  distinguished 
"Balliol"  men  of  the  past.  A  beautiful  window  has  been  placed  in  the 
Reading  Room  to  the  memory  of  the  late  Professor  of  Poetry  (J.  C.  Shairp) ; 
and  in  the  Hall  are  fine  portraits  of  Mr.  A.  W.  Peel,  Speaker  of  the  House  of 
Commons,  and  the  late  Robert  Browning,  the  poet,  both  in  D.C.L.  robes. 


Trinity  College. 


93 


Adjoining  Balliol  College  on  the  E.  is 

61.  Trinity  College,  conspicuous  for  its  gates  of  iron-work, 
now  supported  by  massive  stone  piers,  a  copy  of  those  in  Park- 
street,  opposite  Wadham  (8),  represented  in  our  engraving,  p.  94. 

Looking  through  these  gates  (adorned  with  the  arms  of  the  Earl  of  Guildford 
and  the  founder)  the  visitor  will  be  delighted  with  the  sweet  beauty  o(  the  New 
Quadrangle,  the  buildings  of  which  were  completed  in  1887  from  the  extremely 
picturesque  designs  of  Mr.  T.  G.  Jackson.  On  the  E.  side  is  a  fine  range  of 
rooms  for  students,  and  on  the  N.,  adjoining  the  chapel,  a  new  house  for  the 
President.     The  whole  forms  a  noteworthy  contribution  to  the  architectural 


CHAPEL  AND   LIBRARY.   BALLIOL   COLLEGE. 

beauties  of  Oxford  ;  the  gables  being  specially  admirable,  and  the  decorative 
carving  (by  Farmer  and  Brindley)  exhibiting  much  freshness  and  variety.  The 
spacious  lawn,  with  its  fruit-trees  full  of  blossom  in  the  early  summer,  gives 
peculiar  charm  to  the  scene. 

The  college  was  founded  in  1554.  and  dedicated  to  "  the  Holy  and  Undivided 
Trinity,"  by  Sir  Thomas  Po,>e,  ofTittenhanger,  Herts,  privy  councillor  to  King 
Henry  VIII.  and  Queen  Mary,  and  a  special  friend  of  Sir  Thomas  More  ;  on 
the  site  of  an  ancient  house  of  Benedictines  calltd  Durham  College,  founded  by 
Richard  de  Hoghton  Prior  and  the  monks  of  the  Cathedral  Convent  of  Durham, 
and  suppressed  at  the  dissolution  of  monasteries. 

The  Chapel,  facing  us,  is  open  free  in  summer  term  from  9  to  6. 


94 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


It  is  a  well-proportioned  building,  completed  in  1694  by  Dr. 
Bathurst,  President  of  the  college  ;  and  its  screen  and  altar-piece 
exhibit  some  beautiful  wood-carving  by  Grinling  Gibbons. 

On  the  N.  side  is  a  fine  tomb  with  recumbent  effigies  in  alabaster  of  the 
founder  and  his  wife.  In  1SS5  the  S.  windows  were  filled  with  stained  glass  at 
the  cost  of  the  present  President,  Rev.  H.  G.  Woods  (then  Bursar). 

On  the  E.  side  of  the 
Second  Quadrangle  is  the 
original  Library  of  Dur- 
ham College,  founded  by 
Richard  de  Bury,  Bishop 
of  that  see,  who  died  in 
1343.  Its  windows  con- 
tain some  curious  old 
glass.  Opposite  is  the 
Hall,  rebuilt  1618-20. 
A  statue  of  the  founder 
may  be  seen  over  the  door, 
and  his  portrait,  with  that 
of  his  third  wife  Lady 
Elizabeth  Paulet,  Abp. 
Sheldon,  Wart  on  the  poet 
(who  has  left  an  interesting 
memoir  of  the  founder), 
and  other  worthies,  adorn 
the  walls.  The  7 hvd 
Quadrangle,  entered  un- 
der the  bell-staircase,  was 
de-igned  by  Sir  Christo- 
pher Wren,  and  built 
1667-1682 ;  S.  wing  al- 
EAST  gate  of  trinity  college.  teredi728.     Its  E.  side  is 

open  to  the  Garden,  which,  with  its  charming  avenue,  the  "  Lime  Walk"\\& 
broad  grass-plots,  and  ancient  yews,  affoids  a  dtl.ghtful  retreat.  Through  the 
gates  at  its  E.  end  may  be  seen  the  front  of  Wadham  College  (8).  Leaving 
the  Gnrdens  by  the  new  gateway,  we  find  ourselves  again  in  the  first  quadrangle. 
At  Trinitv  College  is  preserved  an  antique  chalice  of  silver  gilt,  heautifully 
engraved,  with  a  gold  paten,  Originally  belonging  to  St.  Alban's  -vbbev,  but 
presented  to  this  college  by  iis  founder.  Among  Trinity  worthies  may  be 
named  Abp.  Sheldon  (see  page  5),  Seth  Ward.  Gellibrand  the  mathematician, 
Ludlow  and  Ireton  the  Republicans,  Sir  John  Denham,  Warton,  and  the 
celebrated  third  Earl  of  Shaftesbury,  author  of  "Characteristics."      In  1878, 


Exeter  College.  95 


Cardinal  Newman  was  elected  an  honorary  Fellow  of  this  college,  of  which  he 
was  a  member  in  his  undergraduate  days. 

Almost  adjoining  the  gates  is  a  picturesque  old  academic  hall,  now  a  private 
residence,  but  still  known  as  Kate!  Ha!!,  so  named  after  a  certain  Dr.  Kettel, 
by  whom  it  was  founded  on  the  site  of  an  older  house  known  as  Perilous  Ha!!, 
after  Dr.  Perles,  its  founder.     Just  opposite  stands  the  N.  front  of 

62.  Exeter  College,  which  we  enter  from  "theTurl,"  formerly 
a  narrow  opening  through  the  city  wall  into  the  High-street. 

It  derives  its  name  from  its  foundation  in  13 15,  by  Walter  de  Stapledon, 
Bishop  of  Exeter,  whose  design  was  frustrated  liy  his  untimely  death.  It  was, 
however,  incorporated  by  charter  of  Queen  Elizabeth  in  1565,  when  Sir  W. 
Petre  contributed  munificently  towards  a  second  endowment.  The  W.  front, 
by  which  we  enter,  is  220  feet  in  length  :  its  gateway  was  rebuilt  in  1595,  1703, 
and  1834,  at  which  latter  date  the  whole  front  was  newly  faced. 

Entering  the  large  Quadrangle,  the  first  object  which  strikes  the 

visitor  is  the  magnificent  Chapel  on  the  N.  side,  built  1856-9. 

This  Chapel  [open  free  to  visitors  daily  in  term  time  from  10  a.m.  to  4  p.m.) 
is  a  masterpiece  of  the  late  Sir  G.  G.  Scott,  and  recalls  some  of  the  finest 
mediaeval  work  of  the  continent,  espechlly  the  Sai/ife  Chapelle,  in  Paris,  to 
which  it  bears  considerable  resemblance.  The  doorway  has  on  either  side 
statues  of  Rp.  Stapledon  and  Sir  W.  Petre  ;  the  sculpture  in  its  tympanum 
represents  Our  Lord  giving  the  charge  to  St.  Peter.  In  niches  surmounting  the 
buttresses  are  figures  of  the  twelve  apostles  Inside,  the  richly  sculptured  and 
inlaid  screen,  stained  glass  windows,  elegant  clustered  columns  with  carved 
capitnls,  lofty  groined  roof,  choice  wood-carving,  and  the  harmonious  effect  of 
the  E.  end,  with  steps  of  Devonshire  marble  and  exquisite  mosaics  by  Salviati, 
combine  to  form  a  beautiful  reproduction  of  the  Early  Decorated  period  of 
Gothic  architecture.  Canopied  stalls  in  carved  oak  from  designs  by  Mr. 
Bodley,  R.A  ,  were  added  in  1SS4.  This  fine  work,  extending  nearly  the 
whole  length  of  the  chapel  on  either  side,  greatly  enhances  the  rich  effect  of 
the  interior  ;  but  its  style  is  somewhat  more  rigid  and  conventional  than  that 
adopted  by  the  late  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  in  the  other  decorative  work. 

N.E.  of  the  Chapel  are  the  new  buildings  (1S55-7)  fronting  Broad-street. 

Facing  the  Chapel,  on  the  South  side  of  the  quad.,  is  the  Hall, 
built  by  Sir  John  Acland  in  1618,  with  its  fine  timber  roof  and 
perpendicular  windows  affording  a  good  example  of  a  college  hall. 

In  the  Hall  are  portraits  of  the  Founder  ;  £ir  William  Petre  and  Char'es  I., 
benefactors;  Abps  Seckerand Marsh,  Rps.  Hull,  Conybeare.  Hall,  and  Prideaux; 
Lord  Chancellor  Shaftesbury,  1672,  SirJ.T.  Coleridge,  Dr.  Kennicott  the  Hebrew 


96  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


scholar,  and  other  eminent  members.  Besides  these  worthies,  Samuel  the  father 
of  the  Wesleys,  Lurd  Coleridge,  the  late  Bishop  of  Oxford  (Dr.  Mackarness), 
and  Mr.  J.  A.  Froude,  are  among  the  best-known  members  of  Exeter  College. 

The  Fellows'  Garden,  small  but  exceedingly  beautiful,  is 
entered  through  a  doorway  at  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  quadrangle. 

On  its  N  side  is  the  Library  rich  in  mathematical  works),  built  in  1856  from 
a  tasteful  design  by  >ir  G.  G  .^cott  ;  and  from  its  pleasant  greensward  we  get  a 
charming  view  of  the  1  >iviniiy  ^chool  (3  and  I  Hike  Humphrey's  Library  (6),  their 
mullioned  windows  and  picturesque  buttresses  and  pinnacles  richly  clothed  with 
foliage  ;  while  on  the  other  side  the  spire  of  St.  Mary's  (20)  and  the  dome  of 
the  Kadcliffe  (21),  with  the  great  chestnut  tree  mentioned  on  page  49,  complete 
a  lovely  and  reposeful  picture.  On  returning  to  the  quadrangle  we  notice  a  fine 
fig-tree  (known  as  "  Dr.  Kennicott's  fig-tree")  which  in  summertime  covers  the 
garden  front  of  the  college  with  its  broad  leaves. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  Turl-street  extends  the  E.  front  of 

63.  Jesus  College,  remarkable  as  the  first  college  founded 

since  the  Reformation,  its  charter  bearing  date  27th  June,  157 r. 

It  was  designed  as  a  place  of  education  for  Welsh  students  by  Dr  Hu^'h  Ap 
Rice  i,or  Price),  who  died  in  1564.  Queen  Elizabeth,  to  whom  Price  applied 
for  sanction,  granted  timber  from  the  royal  forests  of  Stow  and  Shotover,  also 
the  land  on  which  part  of  the  college  stands,  formerly  occupied  by  ancient  halls  ; 
and  thereupon  assumed  the  name  of  founder.  Sir  Eubule  The! wall.  Principal 
of  the  college  in  1 621 .  doubled  its  resources,  procured  a  new  charter  and  statutes, 
and  added  to  the  buildings.  The  celebrated  Sir  Eeoline  Jenkins,  a  native  of 
Glamorganshire,  who  became  Principal  in  i66l,\vasalsoa  munificent  benefactor. 

The  East  front  of  this  college  was  entirely  remodelled  and  a  handsome  Gate- 
way Tower  added  in  1856,  from  the  admirable  designs  of  Messrs.  Buckler,  who 
also  restored  the  S.  side.  On  the  right  of  the  First  Quairangle  as  we  enter,  we 
notice  the  Chapel,  an  unusually  good  specimen  of  very  late  Gothic,  having  been 
consecrated  in  1621  and  enlarged  in  1636  ;  the  E.  window  is  of  the  latter  date. 
The  interior  of  the  Chapel  was  well  re-tored  by  Mr.  Street  in  1864  Over  its 
entrance  is  the  suitable  inscription,  "  Ascendat  oratio,  descendat  gratia."  The 
Hall  was  one  of  the  gifts  of  ir  Eubule  Thelwall,  and,  as  usual,  is  adorned  with 
portraits  of  founders  ami  benefactors — among  them  one  of  Charles  I.  by  Van- 
dyck.  The  Library  was  built  1667  by  £ir  Leoline  Jenkins.  It  contains  many 
scarce  books  and  MSS.  ;  among  the  litter  those  of  Lord  Herbert  of  Cherbury, 
and  the  curious  Llyfr  Coch  or  Red  Book,  containing  Welsh  chronicles,  romances 
of  King  Arthur,  &c  ,  of  the  fourteenth  century.  Seveial  other  curiosities  are 
preserved  in  this  college. 

Many  eminent  Welshmen  have  been  educated  here  :   among  these  worthies 


Lincoln  College.  97 


were  James  Howell,  who  while  imprisoned  by  the  Parliamentarians  wrote  his 
interesting  Epistola  Hoelianee ;  and  Sir  Thomas  Herbert,  the  traveller,  who 
accompanied  Charles  I.  to  the  scaffold  and  published  an  account  of  his  later  days. 

Facing  Jesus  Coll.  and  separated  from  Exeter  by  Brasenose  lane,  is 

64.  Lincoln    College,   named   after  its   founder,  Richard 

Flemying,  Bp.  of  Lincoln,  1427;  by  whose  successor,  Bp.  Rother- 

ham,  it  was  refounded  in  1478,  the  statutes  dating  from   1479. 

We  enter  the  First  Quadrangle  by  the  gateway  under  a  groined  roof; 

and  observe  on  the  E.  side  the  Hall,  built  in  1437  ;  the  interior  was 

fitted  up  in  1701,  and  contains  portraits  of  the  founder,  Nathaniel 

Lord  Crewe,  a  great  benefactor,  and  others.     On  the  N.  side  is  the 

Library,  and  on  the  S.  side  the  lodgings  of  the  head  of  the  college, 

called  the  Rector.     The  South  Quadraiigle  was 

built  about  16 12-51,  and  contains  on  its  S.  side 

the  Chapel,  erected  by  Lord  Keeper  Williams,  a 

later  Bp.  of  Lincoln  and  subsequently  Abp.  of 

York.     Its  windows  contain  some  very  rich  glass 

dated  1629,  said  to  have  brought  from  Flanders, 

comprising  effigies  of  the  apostles  and  prophets.      arm3  of  Lincoln. 

The  walls  of  this  Quadrangle  are  covered  with  a  Vine  which  is  carefully 
tended.  The  story  is  told  that  at  the  founder's  death  his  plans  for  the  endow- 
ment of  the  college  remained  unfulfilled ;  and  that  en  the  visit  of  Bishop 
Rotherham,  the  Rector  preached  from  Ps.  lxxx.  14,  "Behold,  and  visit  this 
vine  ; "  enlarging  on  the  needy  state  of  the  college.  It  is  said  the  appeal  so 
touched  the  good  bishop's  heart,  that  his  munificent  endowment  was  the  result ; 
and  that  in  gratitude  for  the  circumstance,  the  vine  is  held  in  veneration. 
"  Flemying  established  the  college  with  a  view  of  providing  against  the  spread 
of  Wycliffism  ;  and  Mr.  Froude  tells  us  that  Lollards  were  imprisoned  at  the 
treasury  at  Lincoln.  It  is  remarkable,  however,  that  a  manuscript  copy  of 
Wycliffe's  Bible  is  one  of  the  most  precious  possessions  of  the  library  ;  and  that 
John  Wesley,  to  whom  our  modern  Protestantism  owes  so  much,  became  a 
Fellow  of  Lincoln  (see  40).  He  is  depicted  to  us  as  going  hence,  through  a 
ridiculing  crowd,  to  receive  the  weekly  sacrament  at  St.  Mary's  (20),  with  his 
hair  remarkably  long  and  flowing  loose  upon  his  shoulders."  Some  new 
buildings  have  been  recently  completed,  from  designs  by  Mr.  T.  G.  Jackson. 


1890.] 


9S  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

Crossing  the  road  and  walking  southward,  we  catch  some  pleasing 
glimpses  of  the  RadclifTe  camera  (21)  and  St.  Mary's  spire  (20) 
on  our  left,  and  re-enter  the  High -street  beneath  the  tower  of 

65.  All  Saints'  Church,  built  in  1708,  after  a  design  by 
Dean  Aldrich,  in  the  revived  classic  style  then  prevalent. 

The  church,  though  modern,  lias  an  ancient  history,  having  had  an  existence 
as  "  All  Hallows'  prior  to  1122,  when  it  was  presented  to  the  abbey  of  St. 
Frideswide (see  29)  by  Henry  I.  Edward  II.  having  granted  it  to  the  Bishops 
of  Lincoln,  it  was  settled  upon  Lincoln <  ollege(64)  by  tne  founder,  Bp.  Flemyng. 
In  1699  the  old  church  was  destroyed  by  the  fall  of  the  spire,  and  the  present 
building  occupies  its  site.  The  church  has  until  recently  presented  an  appear- 
ance of  venerable  anticmity,  in  consequence  of  the  perishable  nature  of  the 
stone  used  in  its  construction.  The  tower  and  S.  front  have  now  however 
undergone  complete  and  careful  renovation  under  the  superintendence  of 
Mr.  H.  W.  Moore,  architect  (1889-90). 

The  interior  (restored  in  1865)  is  lofty  and  handsome;  and  the 
tower  and  spire,  although  inconsistent  with  classic  models,  are 
particularly  elegant.  The  latter,  having  been  taken  down  as  un- 
safe, was  rebuilt  in  1874.  In  the  church  is  a  fine  tomb  with  the 
recumbent  effigy  of  a  certain  worthy  Alderman  Levins,  five  times 
Mayor  of  Oxford,  whose  virtues  are  set  forth  in  a  quaint  epitaph. 

Opposite  All  Saints'  are  the  premises  built  in  1 866  for  the  Oxford  branch  of 
the  London  and  County  Bank  ;  at  the  rear  of  which  is  the  Gymnasium,  erected 
for  the  late  Mr.  Maclaren  in  1858.  Next  to  the  tower  of  All  Saints'  church  stands 
the  well-known  Mitre  Hotel,  on  the  site  of  Burwaldscote  Hall,  one  of  the  academic 
houses  with  which  in  the  middle  ages  this  vicinity  abounded.  Another  extinct 
Hall  or  Inn,  identified  as  Elden  Hall,  has  been  brought  to  light  during  recent 
alterations  to  the  S.  front  of  the  spacious  Markeis  for  meat,  poultry,  fish, 
vegetables,  &c.  The  fine  oak-panelled  staircase  of  the  Hall  has  been  restored 
and  utilised  by  the  proprietors  of  the  '  City  Stores,'  and  may  be  seen  on  appli- 
cation. On  the  other  side  a  blue  lamp  indicates  the  Police  Station,  another  old 
academic  house  formerly  known  as  Kemp  Hall. 

Arrived  once  more  at  Carfax  (X,  see  page  71),  we  turn  our  steps 

northward  by  Corn-Market-street  (once  occupied  by  corn-dealers' 

sheds),  passing  the  Golden  Cross  and  Roebuck  Hotels  on  the  right, 

and  on  the  left  the  flower-decked  front  of  the  Clarendon  Hottl% 


St.  Michael's  Church.  99 

^ 

known  to  former  generations  as  the  Star.  The  passage  at  its 
N.  end  forms  the  most  frequented  entrance  to  the  rooms  of  the 
Union  Society  (42),  see  page  75.  A  short  distance  farther  north- 
ward we  observe  the  venerable  tower  of 

66.  St.  Michael's  Church,  an  undoubted  example  of 
Saxon  architecture,  the  "  long-and-short  work  "  of  the  quoins  giving 
evidence  of  its  antiquity.  The  battlements  added  in  the  16th 
century  were  taken  down  in  1863,  and  replaced  by  a  plain  stone 
coping  in  accordance  with  its  primitive  style,  and  the  tower  was 
strengthened,  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Bruton.  The  remarkable 
windows  in  the  tower,  each  consisting  of  two  semicircular-headed 
openings  divided  by  a  very  curious  baluster,  are  now  replaced  as 
they  appeared  before  the  mutilation  of  the  upper  tier.  The  main 
fabric  of  the  church,  restored  in  1855,  affords  some  interesting 
specimens  of  the  architecture  of  various  ages. 

Robert  D'Oyley,  constable  of  Oxford  in  the  time  of  the  Conqueror  (see  p.  ioo. 
is  said  to  have  built  the  tower  :  "  perhaps,"  says  Mr.  Lang,  '•  he  only  restored 
it;  for  it  is  in  the  true  primitive  style-gaunt,  unadorned,  with  round-headed 
windows,  good  for  shooting  from  with  the  bow.  St  Michael's  was  not  only  a 
church,  but  a  watch-tower  of  the  city  wall ;  and  here  the  old  North  Gate,  called 
Bocardo,  spanned  the  street  [see  illustrations  on  page  I,  also  Appendix.  The 
rooms  above  the  gate  were  used  as  a  prison,  and  the  poor  inmates  used  to  let 
down  a  greasy  old  hat  from  the  win  low  in  front  of  the  passers  by,  and  cry, 
*  Pity  the  Bocardo  birds '.'...  .  wdo  no  trace  remains,  but  St.  Michael's 

is  likely  to  last  as  long  as  any  edifice  in  Oxford It  is  worth  while  to  climb 

the  tower,  and  remember  the  times  when  arrows  were  sent  like  hail  from  the 
narrow  windows  on  the  foes  who  approached  Oxford  from  the  North,  while 
prayers  for  their  confusion  were  read  in  the  church  below." 

Opposite  St.  Michael's  Church,  and  close  to  the  site  of  Bocardo,  are  the 
printing  and  publishing  offices  of  "  Alden's  Oxford  Guide,"  No.  35  Corn- 
Market-street,  where  photogiaphic  views  and  other  souvenirs  of  Oxiord  are 
kept  on  sale,  and  information  is  at  any  time  gladly  afforded  to  strangers. 

The  Railway  Stations  may  be  reached  from  this  point 
either  by  George-street  or  New-Inn-Hall-street ;   if  we  take  the 


100 Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

latter  route,  into  the  New  Road  (see  page  73),  we  shall  pass  the 

67.  Probate  Court  of  the  diocese,  erected  in  1864;  and  the 

68.  County  Hall,  built  in  1841,  consisting  of  two  commodi- 
ous Assize  and  Sessions  Courts,  in  one  of  which  the  County  Courts 
are  held  monthly,  and  a  spacious  Hall  where  County  elections  and 
other  important  matters  are  transacted.     Next  is  the 

69.  County  Prison,  a  massive  pile  of  buildings,  in  which  are 
included  the  remains  of  Oxford  Castle. 

As  we  walk  down  the  New  Road  towards  the  Railway  Stations  we  notice  on 
our  left  a  tree-covered  mound,  and  perhaps  catch  a  glimpse  of  a  grey  old  tower 
behind  it.  The  former  is  the  site  of  an  ancient  "keep  tower,"  erected  by 
Robert  D'Oyly,  first  of  the  name,  who  "came  over  with  the  Conqueror,"  and 
strengthened  the  defences  of  a  city  even  then  renowned ;  and  the  latter  had 
frowned  in  its  gloomy  grandeur  for  many  a  year,  even  at  the  early  date  when 
D'Oyly  incorporated  it  with  his  newer  structure  and  made  it  serve  as  a  campanile 
to  the  church  of  St.  George,  used  by  the  house  of  secular  canons  within  the 
walls.*  The  Castle  at  Oxford  was  famous  from  D'Oyly's  time  to  the  Civil 
Wars  ;  but  after  its  surrender  in  1646,  it  lost  much  of  its  strength  and  importance, 
and  gradually  fell  into  ruin.  Perhaps  the  most  remarkable  of  its  incidents  is 
that  which  relates  to  the  Empress  Maud,  who  being  besieged  there  by  the  army 
of  King  Stephen,  contrived  to  escape  across  the  frozen  river  accompanied  by 
three  trusty  knights,  all  clad  in  ghostly  white,  passing  the  sentinels  unobserved. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mound  is  the 

70.  County  Police  Station.  A  lane  on  the  left,  past  £/. 
Peter-le- Bailey  Schod,  leads  by  the  Castle  tower  to  the  Church  of 

71.  St.  Thomas-the-Martyr,  founded  in  the  reign  of 
Stephen,  but  in  large  part  rebuilt  during  subsequent  periods.  A 
north  aisle  was  erected  in  1847. 

Beyond  the  railway,  westward,  is  Osney  Cemetery,  partly  on  the  site  of  the 
burial  ground  of  Osney  Abbey  (see  page  61) :  and  still  farther  past  the  Railway 
Stations  are  the  populous  suburbs  of  Osney  7  own  and  New  Botley,  with  St. 
Frideswide's  Church,  erected  in  1872. 

We  can  but  just  name  the  following,  which,  lying  outside  our  line  of  route, 
have  not  yet  been  visited  : — 

*  See  illustration  in  the  Appendix  to  our  Shilling  edition. 


Mansfield  College.  101 

72.  St.  Ebbe's  Church,  of  immemorial  origin,  rebuilt  1814- 
16,  and  enlarged  and  improved  1866.  A  fine  Norman  doorway 
of  the  1 2th  century  is  preserved  on  the  S.  side.     Farther  south  is 

73.  Commercial  Road  Chapel,  built  in  1832  for  the  Rev. 
H.  Bulteel,  on  his  secession  from  the  Established  Church ;  and 
now  occupied  by  a  congregation  of  Baptists.  New  School-rooms 
have  been  added.    In  the  district  known  as  "The  Friars"  is  situated 

74.  Holy  Trinity  Church,  opened  in  1845,  as  a  chapel  of 
ease  to  the  large  and  populous  parish  of  St.  Ebbe :  also  a  com- 
modious building  opened  in  1886  for  the  uses  of  a  Ragged  School. 


75.  Mansfield  College  is  situated  W.  of  Mansfield-road,  a 
new  thoroughfare  running  S.  from  South  Parks-road,  designed  to 
extend  to  Holywell-street.  Its  position,  and  the  best  means  of 
approach,  are  clearly  shown  on  our  Plan.  It  was  founded  here  in 
October,  1886,  by  the  Trustees  and  Council  of  Spring  Hill 
College,  Birmingham,  who  resolved  to  transfer  the  college  to 
Oxford,  giving  it  the  name  of  the  family  by  whom  it  was  originally 
endowed.  It  has  been  erected  by  the  Congregational  Churches 
for  the  study  of  theology,  primarily  with  a  view  to  the  education 
of  their  own  ministry,  and  also  as  a  centre  of  evangelical  teaching 
and  influence  for  all  members  of  the  University.  It  is  not  a 
college  in  the  ordinary  Oxford  sense  of  the  word,  as  its  students 
will  be  only  men  who  have  already  graduated.  Its  professorial 
and  tutorial  staff  are  limited  to  the  province  of  theology,  and  its 
chapel  pulpit  is  open  to  representative  preachers  of  Evangelical 
churches  of  all  denominations.  The  memorable  opening  cere- 
monies took  place  on  October  14th,  15th,  and  16th,  1889. 


102 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


Mansfield  College  is  built  from  designs  by  Mr.  Basil  Champneys,  and  is  a 
fine  example  of  early  14th  cent  Gothic — the  purest  period  of  the  Perpendicular 
style.  Its  buildings  are  arranged  as  an  open  or  incomplete  quadrangle  ;  the 
Chapel  forming  the  E.,  the  Library,  with  the  Principal's  house  the  \V.,  while 
the  N.  comprises  the  Hall,  Common-Room^  and  lecture-rooms,  &c. ,  the 
Entrance  Gateway  in  the  middle  being  surmounted  by  a  square  tower  with 
oriel  window,  and  an  embattled  turret  at  its  S.E.  angle,  its  parapet  being  plain, 

reminding  one  of  Beau- 
fort's tower  at  St.  Cross. 
The  Chapel  is  a  lofty 
structure,  with  narrow 
aisles  and  an  open  wag- 
gon-roof, supported  by 
stone  arches,  .  between 
which  are  statues  of 
eminent  divines  in  cano- 
pied niches.  Its  Porch 
is  represented  in  our 
engraving,  reduced  by 
permission  from  a  sketch 
in  the  British  Architect . 
Over  the  doorway  is  a 
figure  of  Origen,  while 
statues  of  Augustine  and 
Athanasius  are  in  niches 
on  the  right  and  left. 
The  fine  organ  (presented 
by  Mr.  W.  H.  Wills  of 
Bristol)  was  publicly 
opened  on  20th  May, 
1890.  The  Library 
and  Dining  Hall  arc 
well  designed,  the  pro- 
jecting windows  of  the 
former,  and  the  bold  semi-circular  oriel  which  lights  the  high  table  of  the  latter, 
being  specially  noticeable  ;  the  oak- carving  and  oiher  details  of  ornament  are 
admirable  throughout.  The  grounds  are  laid  out  with  fine  lawns  and  terrace 
walks,  commanding  charming  views  of  the  older  college  buildings  of  Oxford. 

76.  Manchester  New  College.  Following  the  example 
of  the  council  of  Spring  Hill  College,  Birmingham,  the  authorities 
of  Manchester  New  College,  London,  have  decided  to  remove  their 
academic  institution,  with  its  "free  faculty  of  theology,"  to  this 


PORCH  OF  CHAPEL.  MANSFIELD  COLLEGE. 


The  Neighbourhood  of  Oxford. 


J  03 


older  home  of  culture  and  study.  A  site  has  been  acquired 
about  midway  between  the  new  Mmsfield  College  (75)  and  the 
five-century  old  "New"  College  of  Wykeham  (12).  Its  frontage 
will  face  E.  to  the  projected  contiiuation  of  Mansfield-road,  and 
will  reach  to  "Love-lane"  on  the  N. 

The  college  was  formally  inaugurated  on  the  25th  October,  1S89,  in  the 
temporary  rooms,  90,  High  Street,  opposite  All  Souls  College  (19),  where 
its  work  is  for  the  present  carried  on. 


COTTAGES    AND    BRIDGE    AT     NUNfcrlAM. 

The  Neighbourhood  of  Oxford  abounds  with  picturesque 
and  interesting  spots,  offering  strong  inducements  to  the  visitor  to 
devote  a  few  days  to  excursions  in  the  surrounding  country. 

Within  a  short  radius  there  is  ample  choice  of  shady  lanes,  like 
those  at  Garsington,  or  Handborough,  or  Charlbury ;  of  historic 
sites,  such  as  Woodstock,  or  Blenheim,  or  Abingdon ;  of  quiet 


104  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

country  towns  ;  and,  beyond  all,  of  the  Thames  that  flows  through 
meadows  of  the  richest  luxuriance,  and  is  fringed  with  stately 
trees  and  picturesque  homesteads,  and  almost  every  scene  that 
delights.  The  description  of  such  attractive  spots  as  these,  or 
of  lovely  river  scenes  like  Godstow,*  Iffley,  Kennington,  or 
Nuneham,f  does  not  come  within  the  scope  of  the  present  work. 
Several  of  the  neighbouring  towns  and  villages  will,  however,  be 
found  described  in  Salter's  Guide  to  the  Thames  (is.),  or  in  Rambles 
and  Rides  around  Oxford  (2s.  6d.),  either  of  which  may  be  obtained 
at  our  publishing  office. 

Many  of  our  readers,  we  are  sure,  would  welcome  an  opportunity 
of  enjoying  the  delightful  scenery  of  the  Thames  between  Oxford 
and  London ;  and  they  will  thank  us  for  calling  their  attention  to 
a  most  pleasant  and  admirably  conducted  excursion  provided  by 
a  service  of  saloon  steamers  which  leave  Folly  Bridge  (page  70) 
every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  during  the  summer  months, 
for  a  two-days'  trip  to  Kingston-on-Thames,  stopping  the  night 
at  Henley,  and  passing  in  their  voyage  such  places  as  Iffley, 
Nuneham,  Pangbourne,  Mapledurham,  Cliveden,  and  Windsor, 
whose  very  names  are  fragrant  with  romantic  interest. 

In  taking  leave  of  the  visitor,  we  venture  to  express  the  hope  that  our  brief 
companionship  may  have  been  as  fruitful  in  interest  and  pleasure  as  it  has  been 
our  desire  to  make  it.  Our  theme  has  been  a  delightful  but  an  inexhaustible  one  ; 
and  now  that  we  part  company,  we  can  but  exclaim,  with  Nathaniel  Hawthorne, 
"  It  is  a  despair  to  see  such  a  place  and  ever  to  leave  it ;  for  it  would  take  a 
life-time,  and  more  than  one,  to  comprehend  and  enjoy  it  satisfactorily." 

[For  many  gratifying  letters  of  appreciation  received  from  friends  who  have 
made  our  acquaintance  in  these  pages  during  past  years,  we  offer  our  grateful 
thanks.  Once  more  we  cordially  invite  communications,  and  shall  be  glad  to 
receive  any  suggestion  for  the  improvement  of  the  Guide  in  future  editions.] 

*  Sec  Appendix,  page  119.        f  See  illustration  above,  also  Appendix,  pp.  114,  115. 


ANTIQUARIAN    AND    HISTORICAL    NOTES, 

CONTRIBUTED   BY   THE   LATE 

MAJOR-GEN.  GIBBES  RIGAUD,  Hon.  M.A.,  Magd.  Coll. 
As  an  Appendix  to  A  Men's  Oxford  Guide. 


LTHOUGH  at  the  present  day 
it  is  as  a  University  that  Oxford 
is  chiefly  held  in  high  esteem, 
it  must  be  remembered  that  it  had  a 
vast  reputation  as  a  city  and  seat  of 
learning  long  before  the  existence  of 
the  University. 

In  Peshall's  edition  of  Antony  \  Wood 

it  will  be  found  that  the  antiquary  carried 

back  his  dates  to  the  1009th  year  before 

bocardo  from  the  south.      Christ(A.M.  2954),  when  Memphric, king 

of  the  Britons,  is  said  to  have  built  the  city,  whence  it  had  the  name 

of  Caer  Memphric.    The  "famous  antiquary,"  as  Dugdale  calls  Ross, 

says  (1468)  that  the  city  was  first  called  Membre,  or  Memphric;* 

*  This  Memphric  has  left  an  odious  reputation,  as  having  treacherously  slain  his 
brother,  seized  the  kingdom,  and  ruled  tyrannically.  At  length,  parted  from  his  com- 
pany out  hunting,  he  was  devoured  by  wolves,  in  a  dingle  near  a  wood  about  two  miles 
north  of  Oxford,  at  the  spot  still  known  as  Wolvercote. 

I 


106  Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 

then  Bello-situm  (afterwards   Beaumond),   and   then  Ridche?iy  or 
Ryd-ychen,  implying  in  the  Celtic  language  a  Ford  of  Oxen. 

The  names  of  Eellositum,  quasi  a  belle  siium,  and  Beaumond, 
were  given  to  Oxford  for  its  sweet  situation ;  and  verses  in  its 
praise,  both  in  Latin  and  English,  have  been  written  in  all  ages. 
Dan  Rogers,  who  was  Clerk  to  the  Council  to  Queen  Elizabeth, 
wrote  an  epigram  in  Latin  and  English,  of  which  the  latter  version 
is  as  follows  : — 

"He  that  hath  Oxford  seen,  for  beauty,  grace, 
And  healthiness,  ne'er  saw  a  better  place. 
If  God  Himself  on  earth  abode  would  make, 
He  Oxford,  sure,  would  for  His  dwelling  take." 

And  Tom  Warton,  the  Poet  Laureate,  in  his  Ode  for  1751,  says  : — 

"In  this  princely  land  of  all  that's  good  and  great, 
Would  Clio  seek  the  most  distinguished  seat, 
Most  blest,  where  all  is  so  sublimely  blest, 
That  with  superior  grace  o'erlooks  the  rest  ? 
Like  a  rich  gem,  in  circling  gold  enshrin'd, 
Where  Isis'  waters  wind 
Along  the  sweetest  shore 
That  ever  felt  fair  Culture's  hands, 
Or  Spring's  embroider'd  mantle  wore, 
Lo  !  where  majestic  Oxford  stands." 

It  is  the  nature  of  its  situation  which  so  much  enhances  the 
beauty  of  this  city.  Placed  as  it  is  in  a  basin,  watered  by  the  Isis 
and  Cherwell,  with  their  willows  and  waterlilies,  the  ground  ascends 
on  all  sides  except  the  north,  so  that,  whether  we  walk  by  Head- 
ington  and  Shotover,  the  high  ground  of  Bagley  Wood  on  the 
Abingdon  Road,  or  to  the  westward  by  Cumnor  (the  home  of  Amy 


British,  Roman,  and  Saxon.  107 

Robsart),  as  we  gain  the  summit,  or  turn  and  rest  at  any  spot 
during  the  ascent,  we  have  Oxford  with  its  spires  and  towers,  -md 
Radcliffe's  dome  (21)  in  the  centre,  all  beautifully  clustering  bi  low 
us, — a  lovely  picture. 

To  return,  however,  to  our  early  history.  The  City  had  its 
name  Ryd-ychen  during  the  Britons'  rule  in  this  realm,  signifying 
in  their  language  "the  Ford  of  Oxen,"  so  called  from  the  neigh- 
bouring ford  leading  to  North  Hengesey  (now  Hincksey),  and 
behind  Osney,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west  of  Oxford.*  It 
should  be  stated,  however,  that  whilst  Antony  a.  Wood  places  the 
Ford  from  which  the  city  takes  its  name  at  Hincksey,  his  pre- 
decessor Leonard  Hutten  places  it  between  Iffley  and  Kennington ; 
whilst  some  hold  the  shallows  between  Port  Meadow  and  Binsey 
to  be  the  ford  by  which  travellers  and  herds  of  cattle  passed  to  and 
from  the  west  country.  But  when  the  Saxons  overran  the  king- 
dom in  a.d.  689,  after  Cadwallader's  death,  they  formed  the  name 
after  their  plainer  and  more  familiar  etymology  into  "Oxeneford." 

The  Roman  roads  in  the  neighbourhood,  so  carefully  described 
by  the  late  Professor  Hussey,  seem  to  disprove  the  existence  of 
any  considerable  town  here  at  the  Roman  period.  The  road  from 
the  Roman  town  of  Alchester,  near  Bicester,  to  the  Roman  station 
at  Dorchester,  passes  at  about  two  miles  and  a  half  to  the  east  of 
Oxford,  and  may  be  traced  near  Headington,  but  has  no  deviation 
towards  Oxford.     We  have  then  the  British  period,  all  uncertain; 

•  Leland  suggested  that  as  Osney  is  derived  from  Ousen-ey,  Oxen-ford  might  properly 
be  Ouseu-ford  :  but  this  theory  has  never  gained  aiiy  general  acceptance.  The  City  arms 
and  seal  are  of  the  twelfth  century,  and  the  shield  would  hardly  have  been  charged  with 
an  Ox  or  Bull  in  ignorance  of  the  real  origin  of  the  city's  name.  Moreover  the  Abbey  of 
Oeney  (the  derivation  of  this  name  is  u  a  the  lower  part  of  their  great 

seal  the  Oxford  Bull,  marking  tbe  distinction  between  Oxena-ford  and  Ousen-ey.  Some 
philologists  of  eminence  in  the  present  day  are  nevertheless  more  inclined  to  get  our 
name  from  Ouse  than  from  Ox. 


108 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


but  we  know  that  the  place  was  destroyed  by  the  Saxons  in  a.d. 
449,  when  Vortigern  thoroughly  repaired  it,  and  made  it  his  resi- 
dence. And  in  886  we  find  it  the  residence  of  King  Alfred  and 
his  three  sons,  Edward,  Athelward,  and  Alfward.  AVhilst  we  claim 
Alfred  the  Great  as  the  one  who  gave  life  to  Oxford  as  a  place 
of  learning,  we  think  it  highly  probable  that  the  rebuilding  and 


NORTH    FRONT   OF    BISHOP    KING'S    PALACE. 

establishment  of  St.  Frideswide's  by  Ethelred  II.,  a.p.  1002,  was 
the  real  starting-point,  and  that  Oxford  grew  up  and  clustered,  as 
it  were,  around  that  old  foundation,  which  has  now  a  still  more 
valuable  existence  in  the  House  of  Christ  Church.  (See  Nos.  28 
to  31  in  the  Guide.) 

Oxford  was  included  in  the  Diocese  of  Lincoln  until  the  time  of 


The  Cily  Walls  and  Castle.  X09 


Henry  VIII.,  who,  in  compensation  for  the  spoliation  of  so  many 
monasteries,  projected  the  erection  of  several  new  bishoprics. 
Peterborough  and  Oxford  were  taken  out  of  Lincoln;  and  Robert 
King,  the  last  Abbot  of  Oseney,  was  made  the  first  Bishop,  and 
the  see  of  Oxford  was  fixed  at  Oseney,  or  Osney,  in  the  western 
suburbs  of  the  city.  An  old  house  still  remaining  in  St.  Aldate's, 
with  quaintly  carved  ornaments,  as  represented  in  our  illustration, 
is  shown  as  the  residence  of  this  prelate.  He  was  Bishop  of 
Osney  from  1542  to  1546,  when  King  Henry,  by  letters  patent  of 
November  4th,  transferred  the  see  to  his  College  in  Oxford,  which 
he  re-established  under  the  mixed  form  of  a  cathedral  and  academic 
college ;  and  the  Bishop  of  this  diocese  has  since  that  year  been 
styled  Bishop  of  Oxford. 

The  city  was  the  Danes  in  979,  and  again  in  the  year 

1032.  In  1036  Harold  Harefoot  was  crowned  here.  In  1066 
the  Norman   Con  lace,  and  William  of  Normandy 

became  King;  and  we  pass  from  the  distant  time  when  the 
Mercian  kings  ruled,  or  the  Wittenagemotes  of  our  Saxon  ancestors 
were  held  here,  and  may  summarize  our  history  in  the  statement 
that  in  no  age  since  the  Conquest  has  Oxford,  both  as  city  and 
University,  been  otherwise  than  one  of  the  most  important  places 
in  England. 

We  will  now  attempt,  as  briefly  as  may  be,  to  give  some  account 
of  the  interesting  remains  of  the  fortifications  with  which  this  city 
was  formerly  surrounded.  To  begin  with  the  Castle  (see  69  in 
Guide),  we  may  say  that  the  original  plan  and  extent  of  it  can 
hardly  now  be  made  out.  The  New  Road  is  cut  right  through 
the  outer  "  bailey,"  and  the  site  of  the  Canal  Wharf  is  part  of  it 
The  old  tower  which  remains  of  the  Castle  built  by  Robert  D'Oyly 


1)0 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


in  the  time  of  the  Conqueror,*  was  probably  a  prison  tower  in  the 
wall  of  the  outer  bailey,  and  not  the  "  keep,"  as  was  formerly 
supposed.  A  "mount"  is  a  common  appendage  to  a  Norman 
castle,  formed  of  the  earth  dug  out  in  making  the  ditch,  and  the 

summit  served  as  a  look- 
out place,commonly  pro- 
tected by  a  wooden  pali- 
sade, and  sometimes  had 
a  building  on  the  top 
of  it.  In  the  centre  of 
the  Oxford  mount  a 
well  was  sunk  and  a 
well  room  made  in  the 
time  of  Henry  II.,  when 
the  sum  of  ^19  igs.  was 
expended  on  it,  equi- 
valent to  nearly  ^400 
of  our  money.  There 
was  a  small  church 
and  college  of  priests, 
called  St.  George's  Col- 
lege, within  the  Castle. 
The  stately  towers  of 
the  Castle,  which  were 
a  great  ornament  to  that  part  of  the  city,  were  standing  until  the 
time  of  Colonel  Ingoldsby,  the  governor,  when,  in  1649,  the 
Parliament  had  them  pulled  down.  They  were  four  in  number, 
besides  the  one  on  the  gate. 

*  See  illustration,  also  description  (No.  69)  in  the  Guide.— [Ed.] 


OXFORD    CASTLE. 


The  City  Walls.  Ill 

The  City  Walls  were  built  in  the  reign  of  Henry  III.,  and 
about  a  century  after  their  erection,  in  the  reign  of  Edward  III., 
1370,  we  find  mention  of  a  grant  from  the  Abbot  of  Osney  towards 
their  repair.  The  plan  is  the  usual  one  of  that  period, — a  curtain 
wall,  with  an  alure  or  walk  on  the  top,  protected  by  a  parapet  and 
round  towers — or  bastions,  as  they  are  conveniently  called — at 
regular  and  short  intervals.  The  staircases  were  probably  in  these 
bastion  towers,  and  the  last  of  them  may  be  seen  in  the  part  of 
the  wall  surrounding  New  College  Gardens  (12),  where  the  straight 
staircases  from  the  alure  to  the  towers  remain.  It  is  here  that 
the  walls  may  be  best  seen,  as  William  of  Wykeham  obtained  per- 
mission to  include  the  lane  within  the  wall  in  the  ground  of  his 
New  College,  on  condition  that  he  repaired  the  wall,  and  that  his 
college  should  keep  it  in  perpetual  repair.  Starting  from  this 
portion  of  the  wall,  its  line  may  be  traced  to  High  street,  where  the 
East  Gate  stood,  and  then  again  round  Merton  (26).  The  portion 
that  passed  from  thence  to  Christ  Church  (28)  has  long  since  been 
pulled  down.  Starting  also  from  New  College  towards  the  west- 
ward, the  wall  may  be  traced  first  in  the  remains  of  the  little 
chapel  of  St.  Margaret*  (which  stood  by  one  of  the  small  gates 
called  Smith's  Gate),  near  the  site  of  the  present  Clarendon 
Building  (7)  j  then  its  line  may  be  found  in  old  bastions  and  the 
line  of  the  ditch  behind  the  houses  opposite  Balliol  College  (60). 

*  The  hexagonal  Chapel  near  Smith's  Gate  fcas  been  called  improperly  St.  Catharine's 
(hence  "  St.  Catharine's  Club").  This  name  was  adopted  in  his  Memorials  of  Oxford  by 
Dr.  Ingram,  who  supposed  that  the  mutilated  sculpture  over  the  doorway  represented  the 
Marriage  of  St.  Catharine.  The  sculpture,  however,  may  be  seen  to  repiesent  the 
Annunciation,  and  the  Chapel  was  always  known  as  "Our  Lady's  Chapel."  Cat  street 
it  for  Smith's)  Gate  were  so  called  from  St.  Catharine's  Hall,  which  stood  where 
Hertford  College  stands.— Fide  Peshall's  Wood,  pp.  72—75.  Leonard  ELntten  says  it  was 
first  a  Jew's  synagogue;  then  an  oratory  dedicated  to  St.  Margaret. — Vide  Heavne's 
"  Textus  Rofen'sis,"  &c  ,  page  364.  Antony  a  Wood  held  this  also,  and  it  would  in  former 
days  he  known  probably  as  the  Chapel  of  Our  Lily  and  St.  Margaret. 


112 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


It  crossed  the  Corn  Market  by  St.  Michael's  Church  (66),  is 
traceable  by  New-Inn-Hall  street  and  Bullock's  (improperly  named 
Bulwarks)  Alley ;  and  faint  traces  here  and  there  in  "  the  Friars  " 
and  St.  Ebbe's  parish  complete  the  circuit  to  South  Gate. 

To  trace  the  walls  we  should  bear  in  mind  the  position  of  the 

old  Gates.  The 
East  Gate  was 
across  the  High 
street,  close  to  the 
corner  of  King 
street,  leading  to 
Merton;  the  South 
Gate  was  across 
St.  Aldate's,  close 
to  the  south-west 
corner  of  Christ 
Church ;  the  West 
Gate  was  in  Castle 
street,  beyond  the 
old  church  of  St. 
Peter-le-Bailey, 
which  was  in  the 
bailey  {pallium)  or 
outer  court  of  the 
ST.  Michael's  church  &  bocardo,'  north  gate.  Castle.  TheNorth 
Gate  house  was  called  "  Bocardo."  Here  the  three  martyred  pre- 
lates were  allowed  to  meet  and  take  their  meals  together  in  the  room 
above  the  arch,  and  from  this  gate  they  passed  out  to  their  death  by 

*  As  seen  from  the  North  or  outer  side  of  the  wall.     Our  publishing  house  occupies  the 
site  of  the  bastion  shown  on  the  right.    A  view  from  the  South  side  is  given  on  pagejios. 


The  Old  Streets.  113 


fire,  which  took  place  outside  the  City  wall,  opposite  the  entrance 
of  Balliol  College  (60).  In  those  days  there  were  few,  if  any,  houses 
here ;  and  the  whole  of  the  present  Broad  street,  and  the  ground 
on  which  the  houses  stand,  formed  a  considerable  open  space, 
known  as  Can-ditch.  This  name  comes  from  the  "Candida  fossa," 
or  clear  running  stream,  made  to  flow  all  along  the  North  side, 
which  was  more  unprotected  than  the  others.  Before  Can-ditch, 
this  part  was  called  Horsemonger  street,  Henry  I.  having  granted 
to  the  Prior  of  St.  Frideswide  the  right  of  holding  a  horse  fair  there. 
With  the  removal  of  the  gates  and  the  formation  of  the  New 
Market  about  a  century  ago,  the  names  of  many  streets  have  been 
changed.  But  St.  Peter's-in-the-East,  St.  Peter's-le-Bailey,  and  St. 
Michael's  at  North  Gate,  still  retain  their  titles,  though  St.  Michael's 
at  South  Gate  was  pulled  down  to  build  Wolsey's  College  :  it  stood 
close  to  the  gate,  on  the  ground  now  occupied  by  the  residence  of 
the  Professor  of  Hebrew.  St.  Peter  guarded  the  East  and  West, 
St.  Michael  the  North  and  South,  as  is  expressed  in  the  ancient 
distich  : — 

"Invigilat  portae  Australi  Boreaeque  Michael, 
Exortum  solem  Petrus  regit  atque  cadentem." 

"The  North  and  South  Gates  St.  Michael  doth  guard, 
The  East  and  West  St.  Peter's  care  doth  ward." 

The  Corn-Market  had  formerly  a  shed  down  the  middle  of  the 
street  for  the  protection  of  the  dealers,  with  a  leaden  roof  supported 
on  stone  columns.  The  shambles  were  in  the  middle  of  Butcher- 
row  (now  Queen  street),  and  that  name  and  the  Butter-bench,  still 
often  heard,  mark  the  sites  of  open  markets.  But  the  condition 
of  the  streets  on  market  days  in  early  ages,  and  before  1770,  may 
be  cor^eived,  when  we  remember  that  up  and  down  the  High 


114 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


CARFAX    CONDUIT. 


Old  Nomenclature.  115 

street,  and  the  smaller  streets  branching  out  of  it,  were  told  off 
stations  for  each  condition  of  sellers  of  wood  and  straw  with  their 
teams ;  sellers  of  faggots  and  fuel  in  carts  and  waggons ;  timber 
merchants;  sellers  of  hops  and  swine,  beer  and  ale;  drapers; 
sellers  of  roots  and  coals ;  seller  of  gloves  and  whitawyers ; 
bakers,  furriers,  linen  and  woollen  drapers,  tanners,  sellers  of  butter, 
cheese,  milk,  eggs,  and  corn. 

We  conclude  these  brief  notes  with  some  specimens  of  the  old 
nomenclature  of  well-known  localities.  Carfax  was  Quatrevois 
(see  X  in  the  Plan).  Here  in  1610  a  picturesque  structure  was 
erected  as  a  Conduit  for  the  water  supply.  In  1787  it  was  taken 
down  and  removed  to  Nuneham  Park,  near  Oxford,  where  it  still 
stands,  as  represented  in  our  engraving.  All  Saints'  Church  (65) 
was  All  Hallows ;  the  Botanic  Garden  (16)  \hz  Jews'  Cemetery; 
Magdalen  Bridge,  East  Bridge  or  Petty  Po?it ;  the  Turl,  Silver 
Street;  Brasenose  Lane,  St.  Mildred's  Street',  Oriel  Street  was 
Schydyard  Street ;  Magpie  Lane  was  Grope  Lane,  or  by  some 
called  Winking  Lane,  from  Wynkin  de  Worde  having  had  his 
printing-press  there. 

The  first  part  of  the  Henley  and  Cowley  roads  was  Campus 
Fields  ;  Corn-Market  Street  was  North  Gate  Street ;  Market  Street 
was  Cheney  Lane  ;  Ship  Street  was  Summer  Street ;  Broad  Street 
was  Can-ditch;  Trinity  College  (61),  Durham  Hall;  a  house 
of  Augustine  Friars  occupied  the  site  of  Wadham  College  (8); 
Gloucester  Green  was  Broken  Hayes  ;  Friars'  Entry  was  the  road 
to  the  Priory  of  the  Carmelite  or  White  Friars,  who  succeeded  \o 
the  Beaumont  Palace  ground ;  Queen  Street  was  Butcher  Rov 
Adelaide  Street  and  Penson's  Gardens  stand  on  the  gardens  ot 
the  Franciscan  Friars;  Paradise  Street  was  West  Gale ;  Fisher 
Row,    Wareham  Bank;  St.  Aldate's  was  South  Street  or  Fish 


116 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


Street.  The  range  of  building  opposite  the  S.  end  of  Christ  Church 
was  known  as  SegritrCs  Tenements ;  Pembroke  College  (33)  was 
Broadgates  Hall ;  and  on  the  ground  from  Commercial  road  to 
Abbey  place  (still  called  "The  Friars"),  where  now  the  gas  works 
stand,  stood  the  monasteries  of  the  Franciscan  or  Grey,  and  the 

Dominican  or  Black 
Friars.  Folly  Bridge 
was  called  Grand  Pont; 
our  engraving  repre- 
sents the  Tower  known 
as  Friar  Baco7?s  Study, 
which  stood  on  the 
old  bridge  until  the 
year  1779. 

It  is  impossible  to 
do  more  than  indicate 
the  many  objects  of 
interest  to  those  who 
can  spend  a  little  time 
in  our  old  city;  and 
we  will  only  remind 
them  that  in  the  time 
of  Charles  I.  the  whole 
place    was    girt     with 


m^ 


FRIAR    BACON'S    STUDY. 

earthwork  lines  of  defence,*  of  which  there  are  now  left  only  a  few 
traces  in  the  shape  of  green  grassy  mounds,  such  as  may  be  seen 

*  The  plan  of  these  works  on  page  117  is  a  reduced  copy  of  one  in  Skelton's  Oxonia 
Antiqua,  said  to  be  a  fac-simile  from  Antony  a  Wood.  It  is  reproduced  here  by  kind 
permission  of  the  late  Gen.  Rigaud,  from  his  interesting  pamphlet  on  the  Lints  Rouml 
Oxford,  1642— 1646  (Oxford:  W.  R.  Bowden).—  [Ed.] 


Fortifications. 


117 


close  to  the  river  beyond  Holywell  Church.  The  fortifications 
were  commenced  about  April,  1643,  and  for  two  or  three  years 
were  worked  at  till  completed;  but  on  June  20th,  1646,  a  treaty 
for  the  surrender  of  Oxford  was  concluded,  and  on  June  24th 
the  city  was  surrendered  to  the  Parliamentarians.     The  Royalists 


FORTIFICATIONS    ROUND    OXFORD,    1642—1646. 

A— St.  Giles'  Church.     B— Holywell  Church.     C— Magdalen  Bridge. 
D— Grand  Pont  (Folly  Bridge).     E— St.  Thomas'  Church.     F— Oxford  Castle. 

marched  out  through  a  guard  of  the  enemy,  extending  from  St. 
Clement's  to  Shotover  Hill,  armed,  with  colours  flying  and  drums 
beating ;  Prince  Rupert  and  Prince  Maurice,  with  the  "  people  of 
quality,"  having  previously  left  the  city. 

That  Oxford  should  have  been  given  up,  instead  of  standing  a 
siege,  is  now  a  matter  for  happy  reflection ;  and  it  is  enough  for 


118 


Alden's  Oxford  Guide. 


us  to  know  that  Sir  Thomas  Fairfax  chose  Headington  Hill  as  the 
site  of  a  "  very  strong  and  great  work"  or  entrenchment,  of 
capacity  to  receive  and  lodge  three  thousand  men  j  that  a  bridge 
was  thrown  over  the  Cherwell  at  Marston,  and  a  strong  post  made 
on  the  north  side ;  that  at  one  time  Fairfax  had  his  head-quarters 
at  Marston,  Oliver  Cromwell  at  Wytham,  and  Major  Browne  at 
Wolvercote ;  that  at  another  period  the  Parliament  head-quarters 
were  at  Holton ;  that  there  one  of  Oliver's  daughters  was  married 


to  Ireton;  and  that  in  1644  the  Earl  of  Essex  and  Sir  W.  Waller 
came  with  their  forces  from  Abingdon  over  Sandford  Ferry,  and 
so  through  Cowley  and  over  Bullingdon  Green  en  route  for  Islip.* 
And  we  may  be  thankful  that  our  own  lot  was  not  cast  in  the 
"good  old  times;"  for  the  Oxford  of  to-day  will  be  found  a  far 
pleasanter  place  of  sojourn  than  the  Oxford  of  the  troubled  times 
of  the  Civil  War,  or  those  of  William  and  Mary,  Anne,  or  any 
one  of  the  Georges.  G.  R. 

*  It  was  on  May  29th— the  Eve  of  the  Ascension,  and  Charles  I.  went  out  on  the  top 
of  Magdalen  Tower  to  watch  the  troops  of  Essex  as  they  crossed  over  Bullingdon. 


Godstow  Nunnery. 


119 


RUINS    OF   GODSTOW    NUNNERY. 


Godstow. — The  ruined  vestiges  of  the  old  Nunnery  here  give  special 
interest  to  a  charming  spot  by  the  Thames,  situate  about  two  miles  north  of 
Oxford,  and  approached  by  one  of  the  pleasantest  of  riverside  walks.  The 
nunnery  was  founded  by  Edith,  wife  of  Robert  D'Oyley,  in  1 138  ;  and  within 
its  walls  Fair  Rosamond  received  her  education,  passed  her  later  days  in  quiet 
seclusion,  and  was  buried   before  the  high  altar  of  the  church. 

Godstow  is  reached  by  Walton  Bridge,  which  is  close  to  the  northern  terminus 
of  the  Walton-street  tramway.     (See  pape  80  in  the  Guide.) 


$tst  of  Illustrations  in  %Mn*B  (JMorir 

May  Morning  on  Magdalen  Tower   ... 

Arms  of  the  City  ami  University     ... 

North  Gate  and  Bocardo,  from  the  North     ... 

The  Sheldonian  Theatre 

King  Henry  VIII. 's  Sword  and  Guy  Fawkes'  Lantern 

The  Divinity  School  (interior) 

The  Schools  Tower 

The  Picture  Gallery,  Bodleian  Library 

Wadham  College,  The  Arms  of 

The  University  Museum,  Statue  of  Lord  Bacon  in 

Keble  College,  Arms  and  Gateway  ... 

New  College,  Entrance  Gateway 

New  College  Cloisters,  Bell  Tower,  and  "West  end  of  Chapel 

New  College,  The  Founder's  Pastoral  Staff  and  Jewel 

St.  Edmund  Hall,  The  Arms  of 

The  New  Examination  Schools 

Magdalen  College,  from  the  Bridge 

Magdalen  College,  Open-Air  Pulpit 

Magdalen  College  Cloisters,  Chapel,  Founder's  Tower,  &c. 

Magdalen  College,  "West  Doorway  of  Chapel 

Magdalen  College  and  Bridge,  from  the  Cherwell 

Magdalen  College,  Addison's  Walk 

St.  Mary-the-Virgin's  Church  and  All  Souls  College 

St.  Mary-the-Virgin's  Church,  The  Porch 

Brasenose  College  and  Kadcliffe  Library 

Oriel  College  Dining  Hall  ... 

Corpus  Christi  College,  Quadrangle 

Corpus  Christi  College,  Bishop  Fox's  Pastoral  Staff 

Merton  College,  Arms  and  Gateway 

Merton  College  Chapel,  from  the  East 

(  'hrist  Church,  Boat  Club  Barges,  on  the  Isis 

Christ  Church  Cathedral  (exterior)  and  Latin  Chapel  (interior) 

Christ  Church,  Dining  Hall  (interior) 

Christ  Church,  "West  Front,  and  Meadow  Walk 

New  Road  Chapel 

Union  Society's  Library  and  Reading  Room 

"Worcester  College,  The  Arms  of 

St.  John's  College,  Arms,  and  Garden  Gateway 

St.  John's  College,  Window  in  Garden  Front 

The  Taylor  Institution  and  the  Randolph  Hotel 

The  Martyrs'  Memorial  and  Balliol  College 

Balliol  College  Chapel  and  Library  ... 

Trinity  College,  The  Gateway 

Lincoln  College,  The  Arms  of 

Mansfield  College,  Chapel  Gateway 

Nuneham  Cottages  and  Bridge,  near  Oxford 

Bocardo,  North  Gate,  from  the  South 

Bishop  King's  Palace,  St.  Aldate's 

Oxford  Castle 

Bocardo,  North  Gate,  from  the  North 

Carfax  Conduit,  Nuneham  Park 

Friar  Bacon's  Study,  Grandpont 

Plan  of  the  Old  Fortifications 

General  View  of  Oxford,  from  the  G.W.R.   ... 

Godstow  Nunnery 


<§uibe. 

Frontispiece. 
Page  v. 
1 
3 
6,7 
8 


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SUMMER  TRIP  OB  the  RIVER  THAMES. 


SPECIAL   SALOON    STEAMERS 

RUN   DURING   THE   SUMMER   BETWEEN 

OXFORD   AND  KINGSTON, 


DOWN  TRIP. 


OXFORD 
TO 
HENLEY: 
Mondays, 
Wednesdays, 
Fridays, 


HENLEY 

TO 
KINGSTON  : 
Tuesdays, 
Thursdays, 
Saturdays. 


UP  TRIP. 

KINGSTON  HENLEY 

TO  TO 

HENLEY:  OXFORD: 

Mondays,  Tuesdays, 
Wednesdays,       Thursdays, 

Fridays,  Saturdays. 


Oxford  to  Wallingford 
„  Henley    - 

„  Windsor  - 

„  Kingston  - 


FARES. 

4/-     I  Kingston  to  Windsor       -  4/- 
7/6  „  Henley         •  7/6 


12/- 
15/- 


Wallingford-  12/- 
Oxford  -       -  16/- 


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down  the  Thames,  at  charges  which  include  Cartage  back  to  Oxford. 

SALTER    BROS., 

BOAT-BUILDERS,    OXFORD. 


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JtrlUJCaJDUwxy.      XlUJLJCa  Xsl* 

(See  page  98  in  Guide.) 

J.   AUSTIN  DRAYTON,  Proprietor. 

This  First-Class    Family  and   Commercial    Hotel   is  most  con- 
veniently situated  for  Commercial  Gentlemen, 
Tourists,  and  Boating  Parties. 

Visitors  will  find  every  comfort  and  attention  with  moderate  tariff. 

LADIES'  COFFEE  ROOM.    PRIVATE  SITTING  ROOMS. 

Billiard  Room  (two  tables).    Large  Stock  Rooms.    Good  Stabling. 

The  "Golden  Cross"  Hotel, 

eOHW-MAHEET   STREET, 
OXFORD. 

(See  page  98.) 

AT  this  old-established  First-Class  Hotel,  which  is  centrally 
situated  a  few  doors  North  of  Carfax  (marked  X  in  Plan), 
Visitors,    Boating   Parties,    and    Families   will   meet   with   every 
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M.  M.  FRANKLIN,  Proprietress. 


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^OXFOR  D.* 

MITRE  HOTEL 

SITUATED    IN    THE 

FINEST    STREET   IN     EUROPE, 

IS  ONE  OF  THE   MOST 

ECONOMICAL    FIRST-CLASS    HOTELS 

IN    THE    KINGDOM. 

WILLIAM  H.  ALDEN, 

(Late  THOMAS  ALDEN,) 

UNIVERSITY  &  FA1LY  BUTCHER, 

1  &  2,  MARKET,  OXFORD. 


SUPERIOR  PORK,  GORNED  BEEF,  &  PICKLED  TONGUES. 

Families  regularly  Waited  upon  for  Orders. 


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OXFORD  RESTAURANT, 

107,    HIGH    STREET, 

Exactly  opposite  the  new  Gateway  Tower  of  Brasenose  College. 


PROPRIETOR 


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Supplied  on  the  Shortest  Notice. 


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COOPER'S, 

207\   COWLEY  ROAD, 
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"The  Universities"  Note  Paper. 

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,  Edinburgh,  and    Now  York. 

"Bach  packet  contains  twelve  exquisite  chromo-lithogrrapnio 

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Oxford:  Alden  &  Co.,  35,  Corn- Market  Street. 


*♦*  The  illustrations  on  pp.  69,  93, 
are  reproduced  by  permission  from  the  ' 
the  abore  set  «tf  views. 


and  94  in  "  Alden's  Oxford  Guide" 
1  Tourists'  Guide  "  which  accompanies 


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tr+ 


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(See  page  99) 

OXFORD. 

IMPORTERS  OF  AND  DEALERS  IN 

WINES,   SPIRITS,  AND    LIQUEURS. 


testimonials  to  "JUben's  (Dxforb  ©tribe." 

— ♦ — 

•.*  Alden  s  Oxford  Guidewas  officially  recommended  to  the  "  University  Extension  Students 
and  other  visitors  at  the  "  Oxford  Summer  Meeting  "  in  August,  1888. 

"YKTE  should  certainly  recommend  all  those  who  are  fortunate  enough  to  have  their 

*     'people'  up  next  Term,  to  get  for  them  the  new  edition  of  Mr.  Alden's  pretty 

little  book.     It  contains  an  excellent  map  of  Oxford,  and  six  good  photographs 

besides  a  large  number  of  woodcuts The  information  which  it  furnishes  as  to  tin 

various  buildings  and  institutions  is  quite  full  enough  for  the  ordinary  visitor,  and 
would  also  be  both  useful  and  interesting  to  most  of  those  actually  residing  in  Oxford. 
...  and  the  book  is  a  marvel  of  cheapness."  —Oxford  {Univ.)  Review,  Feb.  29,  1888. 
"PERTAIN LY  no  good  American  should  visit  Europe  without  going  to  Oxford  ; 

^     and  when  they  do  so  they  should  buy  Alden's  Oxford  Guide,  which  is 
now  in  its  twenty-sixth  thousand,  and  contains  about  as  complete  a  description  of 
the  city  as  can  well  be  crammed  into  a  hundred  pages." — American  Bookseller, 
Nov.  I,  1887. 
"'THIS  carefully  prepared,  accurate,  and  popular  Guide  to  places  of  interest  in 

-*■  and  about  the  city.  We  are  glad  to  find,  on  glancing  through  the  pages  of 
this  new  edition,  that  every  article  has  been  carefully  revised,  and  that  such 
additions  have  been  made  as  to  bring  the  book  up  to  date.  .  .  .  We  have  frequently 
taken  occasion  to  praise  both  the  arrangement  employed,  and  the  way  in  which  the 

information  is  conveyed We  can  confidently  recommend  the  book  to  tourists 

and  visitors,  as  well  as  to  townspeople,  hundreds  of  whom  know  so  little  of  the 
beauties  in  their  midst." — Oxford  Times.   July  30,  1887.     [Another  highly  com- 
mendatory notice  (July  7.1888)  concludes  thus: — "  Mr.  Alden  may  be  congratulated 
on  his  enterprise  and  the  continued  success  of  his  Guide."] 
"P|N  more  than  one  occasion  this  excellent  Guide  to  Oxford  has  been  com- 

^     mended  in  these  pages.     Its  brevity  and  yet  comprehensive  descriptions, 
and  its  excellent  arrangement  are  as  noteworthy  as  ever  in  the  issue  of  the  twenty- 
sixth  thousand  of  the  work." — Publishers'  Circular,  Aug.,  1887. 
"  A  LDEN'S  OXFORD  GUIDE  is  without  doubt  one  of  the  best  Guides  that 

•**■  is  published,  and  I  am  not  surprised  that  it  has  reached  a  circulation  of 
twenty-six  thousand.  It  is  embellished  with  a  large  number  of  cuts,  and  the 
descriptions  of  the  places  of  interest  are  well  and  concisely  written.  Much 
valuable  historical  and  antiquarian  information  is  contained  in  this  model  Guide 
I  thank  Mr.  E.  C.  Alden  for  this  book,  and  wish  every  town  in  England  had  an 
author  able  to  compile  a  guide-book  on  similar  lines." — W.  Andrews,  Esq., 
F.R.H.S.,  in  Wakefield  Free  Press,  Sept.  10,  1887. 

"WE  have  much  pleasure  in  commending  'Alden's  Guide  to  Oxford  '  to  the 
notice  of  such  of  our  readers  as  may  be  contemplating  a  visit  to  the  classic 
city  on  the  Isis.  It  is  compact,  full  of  information,  and  carefully  edited  and 
printed,  displaying  numerous  illustrations,  and  can  be  obtained  for  the  small  sum 
of  sixpence." — Baptist  Magazine,  Sept.,  1887. 
"NO  American  or  foreigner  touring  in  this  country  will  consider  he  has  done  his 

^  duty  until  he  has  paid  a  visit  to  the  fine  old  University  city  of  Oxford  ;  and 
once  at  Oxford  the  visitor  will  find  he  has  never  come  across  a  better  Guide  to  any 

city  than  'Alden's  Oxford  Guide.' We  could  not  recommend   a  more 

valuable  aid  than  is  presented  in  the  pages  of  this  neat-looking  and  well-arranged 
little  handbook.  It  is  nicely  illustrated,  and  the  points  of  interest  are  very  care- 
fully dealt  with."— Sussex  Times,  March  8,  1884. 


~HC?frgrf*   from   ,"E£fttcrs. 

His  Royal  Highness  (the  late)  PlilNCE  LEOPOLD,  Duke  of  Albany,  KG., 
Under  date  "Kensington  Talace,  June  12th.  1875,"  authorised  the  publisher  to 
announce  that  Alden's  Guide  is  "Patronised  by  II.R.H.  Prince  Leopold." 
From  the  Right  Hon.  W.  E.  GLADSTONE,  M.P. 

"Allow  me  to  thank  you  for  the  useful  Oxford  Guide,  and  for  the  kind  words 
with  which  you  have  been  pleased  to  accompany  it. —July  5th,  1S85." 
From  Sir  HENRY  W.  ACLAND,  K.C  B.,  M.D..  F.R  &..  Regius  Professor  of  Medicine 
in  the  University  of  Oxford,  Hon.  Physician  to  H.R.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales. 

"  Please  send  me  five  copies  of  your  admirable  little  Guide. — Feb.  1S88." 
From  J.  WALTER,  Esq.,  M.P. ,  Proprietor  of  "The  Times,"  Bearwood.Wokingham. 

"As  we  occasionally  have  American  friends  staying  here  on  their  way  to  Oxford, 
I  should  be  glad  of  a  few  copies  of  your  '  Guide'  to  present  them  with  ;  and  will 
thank  you  to  send  me  a  dozen  copies  for  that  purpose. — Aug.  16,  1887." 
Colonel  THEODORE  A.  DODGE,  of  the  United  States  Army, 

"Desires  to  compliment  Mr.  Alden  upon  having  written  the  only  Guide 
Colonel  Dodge  has  ever  had  in  his  hands,  and  he  has  used  so-called  '  Guides  '  in 
all  parts  of  the  world.     The  volume  has  been  a  most  perfect  cicerone. 

"Clarendon  Hotel,  Oxford,  19th  March,  1878." 
Frcm  Rev.  CORTLANDT  WHITEHEAD  (now  Bishop  of  Pittsburg),  U.  S.  America. 

'•  1  have  found  your  Guide  to  Oxford  an  invaluable  companion  during  my  visit 
here    "Clarendon  Hotel,  Oxford,  1879."    [This  testimony  was  confirmed  in  1888] 

From  R.  PETERS,  Esq.,  Sec.  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  Cambridge. 

"  Several  of  the  members  have  expressed  their  approval  of  your  Guide-book,  and 
stated  that  had  it  not  been  for  the  information  therein,  they  could  not  have  made 
such  good  use  of  the  limited  time  they  had,  in  visiting  the  places  of  interest." 
From  G.  HERBERT  MORRELL,  Esq  ,  M.A  ,  B.C.L.,  Headington  Hill  Hall. 

"Mr.  G.  HERBERT  Morrell  would  congratulate  Mr.  Alden  upon  the  pro- 
duction of  such  an  exceedingly  handy  pocket  Guide-book. — 7th  June,  1878." 
From  the  late  Rev.  J   RIGAUD,  B  D.,  Fellow  of  Magdalen  College,  Oxford. 

"I  have  always  thought  your  Guide  to  Oxford  one  of  the  very  best.  It 
answers  its  purpose  admit  ably.  It  gives  to  the  stranger,  and  indeed  to  residents, 
a  large  amount  of  interesting  information,  in  a  clear  and  readable  way,  respecting 
our  old  City,  the  University  and  Colleges,  and  Churches, — describing  them  well  ; 
and  tells  its  readers  of  the  illustrious  names  connected  with  Oxford  during  the 
many  centuries  past  to  our  own  day  — April,  1SS2." 
From  the  late  M&j.-Gen.  GIBBES  RIGAUD.  Hon.  M.A  ,  Magdalen  Coll.,  Oxford. 

"General  Rigaud  is  extremely  glad  to  hear  that  a  reprint  of  Mr.  Alden's 
Guide  to  Oxford  has  been  called  fur.  He  thought  it,  when  it  first  came  out,  an 
improvement  on  the  then  existing  ones  ;  and  he  has  observed  on  each  re-issue  that 
Mr.  ALDEN  hns  added  some  new  matter  or  embellishment,  and  taken  great  pains 
to  combine  the  utmost  accuracy  of  description  with  a  clearness  of  style  which 
makes  it  a  real  Guide  to  the  visitor.— 18,  Long  Wall,  3rd  April,  1882." 
From  W.  H.  WHITE.  Esq.    M.  Inst   C.E.,  Surveyor  to  the  Oxford  Local  Board. 

"  Your  Guide-book  is  certainly  the  best  thing  of  the  kind  I  have  seen 

The  Map.  too.  is  very  clear  and  complete. — June.  1SS4." 

From  F   MADAN.  Esq  ,  M.A  .  Brasenose  College.  Bodleian  Sub-Librarian. 

"  Your  Guide  is  admirably  up  to  date,  and  well  furnished  with  illustrations  and 
map.— B.N. C.,  Oxford,  Juue  27th,  1885."- 


dfeniune   JP>rcss   Notices. 

The  "  Tourist  and  Traveller"  (June,  1S85)  says: — 
"It  is  something  of  a  pleasing  novelty  to  come  upon  a  local  guide-book  which 
is  not  either  absurdly  fulsome  or  tiresome  in  its  prosiness.  Alden's  Oxford 
Gltde  is  one  of  the  best  we  remember  to  have  seen.  It  is  convenient  in  size  (a 
great  desideratum),  well  printed,  and  abundantly  illustrated,  and,  above  all,  pro- 
vides the  sort  of  information  the  tourist  desires,  and  just  the  right  quantity  of  it. 
It  possesses  considerable  literary  merit— not  the  usual  characteristic  of  the  average 
work  of  this  kind — and  is  arranged  in  a  manner  which  makes  it  easy  of  reference." 

The  "  Oxford  and  Cambridge  Undergraduates'  Journal  "  says  : — 
"Alden's  Oxford  Guide  is  a  marvel  of  cheapness.     We  have  tested  it  in 
several  particulars,  and  in  each  case  found  it  accurate.      We  know  of  no  better 
Guide  to  Oxford,  and  can  honestly  recommend  it  to  Members  of  the  University  as 
well  as  to  visitors." 

The  "  Christian  World  »'  (Oct.  16,  1884)  says  :— 
"Alden's  Oxford  Guide  is  a  surprisingly  good  book." 

The  •'Bookseller"  (August,  1886)  says  :— 
"A  profusely  illustrated  Guide-book  to  the  City  and  University,  together  with  an 
Appendix  of  Antiquarian  and  Historical  Notes:  the  whole  nally  well  put  together." 

The  "Bath  Herald"  (June  1st,  187S)  says  :  — 
"  Strangers  will  be  glad  to  find  such  a  compact  and  well-arranged  Guide  as  this 
ready  to  their  hands.  It  is  very  well  written,  and  is  one  of  the  best  arranged  Guides 
we  ever  came  across.  It  is  prefaced  by  a  numbered  Key  Plan,  the  corresponding 
numbers  being  set  against  the  paragraphs  which  describe  the  various  public  build  - 
incjs.  The  labour  of  the  visitor  in  getting  about  is  thus  reduced  to  a  minimum. 
The  Guide  is  also  abundantly  illustrated  with  a  number  of  capital  woodcuts  " 

"Jackson's  Oxford  Journal"  (June  8,  1878)  says:  — 
"Alden's  Oxford  Guide  honestly  justifies  its  title  as  a  Guide  in  the  best  sense 
of  the  term.     The  information  supplied  is  just  that  which  strangers  would  be  most 
likely  to  seek,  and  it  is  arranged  in  a  very  convenient  form  for  reference.     The  des- 
criptions are  clear  and  to  the  point,  and  the  work  is  well  printed  and  illustrated." 

The  "Oxford  Chronicle  "  (  July  15,  1882)  says  :— 
"Amongst  the  new  matter  is  a  Key  Plan  shewing  at  a  glance  the  hours  at  which 

some  of  the  principal  buildings  are  open  to  the  public The  book  is  well 

printed  on  good  paper  ;  the  illustrations  include  every  building  of  note  in  the 
University  and  City  ;  the  literary  matter  combines  accuracy  with  conciseness,  and 
the  visitor  in  his  perambulations  will  find  that  he  possesses  a  Guide  at  once  intelli- 
gent and  trustworthy." 

The  "Bookseller"  (Aug.  5.  1882)  says  : — 
"A  compact,  well  illustrated  little   Hand-book,  serviceable  to  visitors  and  a 
handy  reference  book  for  residents." 

"  Jack  0'  Lantern  "  on  "Oxford  Gaides." 
"Alden's  Oxford  Guide-book,  revised  and  reprinted  last  July,  containing  a  new  and  useful 

Map  in  addition  to  the  old  Plan It  may  be  useful  at  this  holiday  season  to  point  out  to 

the  numerous  foreigners  who  are  daily  lionising  us.  that  the  misleading  absurdities  and 
extortionate  charges  of  many  of  those  men  who  call  themselves  guides,  may  be  avoided  by 
their  investing  the  small  sum  of  6d.  or  is  in  a  sensible  Oxford  Guide-book." — Our  Local 
Note-booh  in  Oxford  Times,  10th  September,  1881. 


PRESS  NOTICES  of  "  Alden's  Oxford  Guide,"  continued:— 
The  "  Publishers'  Circular''  (August  15,  18S2)  says  : — 

11  A  special  merit  in  this  little  book  is  the  brevity  with  which  the  descriptions  are 
given,  and  the  consequent  saving  of  time  to  the  visitor.  Many  guide  books  seem  to 
be  compiled  under  the  impression  that  they  will  be  studied  at  home,  and  that  any 
attempt  at  compressing  the  information  would  be  a  mistake  ;  but  Mr.  Alden  has 
realised  that  the  great  majority  of  people  who  consult  such  works  are  tourists 
anxious  to  do  the  maximum  of  sight-seeing  in  the  minimum  of  time,  and  to  this 
large  class  of  visitors  to  Oxford  his  work  will  be  invaluable.  At  the  same  time  it 
must  not  be  supposed  that  he  omits  any  particulars  as  to  the  colleges  and  other 
buildings  which  are  really  essential  to  a  due  appreciation  of  their  history,  archi- 
tectural and  other  features,  for,  from  first  to  last,  he  touches  upon  every  point  of 
interest  in  this  most  interesting  of  ad  our  English  cities.  As  an  addition  to  the 
bound  copies  of  the  handbook,  we  have  a  coloured  sketch  map  of  the  city  and 
university,   and   an   antiquarian   chapter   entitled   'Old    Oxford,'  contributed    by 

Major-General  Gibbes  Rigaud The  book  is  published  in  a  handy  pocket 

size,  and  may  be  justly  described  as  a  Model  Guide." 

From  the  "Nouvelle  Chronique  de  Jersey''  (30  Aout,  1882). 
"  La  touriste  qui  n'a  que  peu  de  temps  a  sa  disposition,  et  dont  le  sejour  a 
Oxford,  ne  doit  se  compter  que  pour  quelques  heures,  ne  peut  faire  mieux  que 
d'acheter  "Alden's  Guide  to  Oxford."  Ce  guide  en  main,  a  pas  lents  et 
mesures.  jetant  un  regard  a  droite  et  a  gauche,  nous  penetrames  au  cceur  de  cette 
ville  ainsi  que  dans  plusieurs  des  ses  '  temples  oil  1'  intelligence  la  plus  elevee  a 
brille,'  et  dans  les  palais  des  etudes  Universitaires  d'  oil  sont  sortis  les  hommes  les 
plus  renommes  du  monde." — Extract  from  an  article  entitled,  "  Un  Conge  de 
Douze  Jours." 

"  \A/E  have  just  received  a  copy  of  the  new  edition  of  Alden's  well-known 
sixpenny  Guide  to  Oxford  .....  We  most  cordially  recommend  this 
throughly  complete  and  careful  handbook  to  residents,  as  well  as  visitors,  who 
desire  to  gain  an  adequate  idea  of  the  many  beauties  and  antiquities  of  our 
University." — The  Oxford ( Univ.)  Review,  July  17,  1885. 

"  \ME  call  attention  to  a  very  neat  and  complete  Guide  to  Oxford,  issued  by 
Messrs  Aldsn  &  Co.,  of  35,  Corn-Market  Street,  Oxford.  It  is  of  con- 
venient size,  ably  written,  replete  with  detailed  information  on  all  archaeological 
and  classical  points  of  interest,  and  profusely  illustrated.  Those  who  wish  to 
learn  as  much  as  possible  of  Oxford  in  a  few  hours  will  do  well  to  obtain  copies  of 
Alden's  GUIDE..'  —Brighton  limes,  Feb.  29,  1884. 

"QTR  ANGERS  to  Oxford,  on  visiting  that  fair  and  world-renowned  city,  should 
u  purchase  this  singul  irly  complete,  well-arranged,  portable,  and  inexpensive 
'Guide.'  It  will  abundantly  facilitate  their  explorations,  and  will  afford  them  a 
great  variety  of  information  which  will  make  their  visit  usefully  instructive  as  well 
as  delightful.  .  .  .  Purchasers  m.iy  take  our  assurance  implicitly  that  they  will  find 
the  volume  '  a  perfect  cicerone.'  " — Baptist  Magazine. 

"PAREFULLY  looking  through  it.  it  seems  to  me  far  and  away  the  most  useful 
^     Guide-book  for  strangers." — Jack  o'  Lantern  in  the  Oxford  Times. 

OXFORD  :    ALDEN  &  CO.,  35,  CORN-MARKET  STREET. 
LONDON  :— HAMILTON,  ADAMS  &  CO.,  32,  PATERNOSTER  ROW. 


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