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NARCIS
(One of the Rev, G. H. Engleheart’s seedlings.)
S CASTILE.
PICTORIAL
PRACTICAL BULB GROWING
MecCONCISE GUIDE
TO THE CULTURE OF ALL THE MOST IMPORTANT BULBOUS,
TUBEROUS, AND ALLIED PLANTS
BY
WALTER PoeA\W RIGHT
Rorticultural Superintendent under the Kent County Council
AND
HORACE J. WRIGHT
Member of the Fruit Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society ;
Honorary Sceretary of the National Sneet Pea Society, ete,
A. O38 5-2 =
© > «£ = a
WITH MANY PRACTICAL ILLUSTRATIONS
2 ) [9
2 . a
e _ o ‘
Seeotit anp COMPANY, LimitTep
LONDON, PARIS, NEW: YORK § MELBOURNE
MCMIII j
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Edited by WALTER P. WRIGHT.
Cassell’s Dictionary of Practical
Gardening.
The Gardener.
Works by WALTER P. WRIGHT.
Pictorial Practical Gardening.
Pictorial Practical Fruit Growing.
Pictorial Greenhouse Management.
Pictorial Practical Vegetable Growing.
Pictorial Practical Rose Growing.
“ CASSE Lb: AND COMPANY, LIMITED, London; Paris,
ee ot « New York: & Melbourne.
ERHEP AOE.
THE term “bulb” in connection with this book is given a wide
interpretation. |
Pechnically. although a Hyacinth is a bulb, a Begonia is not.
We have, however, swept away, for practical purposes, dis-
tinctions which the great flower growing public knows nothing
about, and included all the favourite flowers which a_ broad
view associates with bulbs.
Conversely, we have left out some minor plants which really
are bulbs, as not deserving space in a small handbook. Such
plants will be found described in “Cassell’s Dictionary of
Practical Gardening.”
The present work is uniform with the other volumes of the
Pictorial Practical series, and aims at giving all the salient
points in concise form, with explanatory illustrations.
WALTER P. Wricutr
Horace J. Wricar.
September, 1903.
CON THNTe
CHAFTER
T,—Butrs In BEpDs
AND BorvDERS.
II1.—Butzs 1n Pots .
II.—BuLss IN
GLASSES .
IV.— Buss in VASES
AND BowLs
V.—Butrs 1n WIN-
pow Boxes
Vi-—_Bubes In: (Tse
W ooDLAND
VII.—Bu ss 1n Grass
VIIT.—Acuimenes, Ac-
ONITES, ANOM-
ATHECA .
TX. Agios’.
X,—ALSTROMERIAS
XI.—AMARYLLISES .
XIT.—ANEMONES .
XIII.—Arvum Linies
XIV.—BaBIANAS
X V.—BEGOoNIAS
XVI.— BELLADONNA
LALTES: +,
XVII,—CaLapIu Ms
X VIIT.—CatocuortT!.
XI X,—-CANNAS
X X,— CHIONODOXAS
X XI.—CoLcHICUM<.
X XI1.—Crinums
XXITT,-
XXIV.—CycLaMENs .
XX V,— DAFFODILS
XXVI, - DAHLIAS .
(‘ROCUSES
Kes eeietee
PAGE CHAPTER PAGE
XXVII,—EryTHRONIUMS 101
1226 XX VII[I.—Evcuarises . 101—102
26 XXIX,—Freestas. . 103—104
XXX,—Fritintarias 104—108
ef ees tf) XXXI.—Guapviorr . 106—113
XXXII.— Guoximaas .. 114-016
30-3! XX XIII.—HE werocat- 3
LISES 117
52 =n XXXIV.—HeEpaticas 117
XXXV.—Hyacintus . 118—121
36— 38}. © OX V0 ee
39-41 XXXVIT.—Ixtas . : 127
XXX VIIF.—Lacwenatras 127-—129
XX XTX,—Levcosums 129
42 XL.—Liiums . . 130—133
49-44 XLI.— Montrretias 183—134
44-— 45 XLIT.—Mvscaris . 134—13d
15 45 XLIITI.—Nerines. . 135—136
48— 49 XLIV.—ORNITHOG A-
50 LuUMS ._. 186—137
50-3 XLV.—RANUNCU-
sy ees LUSES S137=- 136
XLVI.—Scinias . 188—139
57 XLVII.—Snowprors . 139—140
58— 59 XLVIII.—Sparaxis. 140
60— 61 XLIX,.—Ticeripias. . 140—141
61— 63 L.—TRitTELetras '. 141
64 LI,—Trirontas 141
65 LIIt.—Troprroittms. 142
65— 66 LIII.—Twureroses 143
66— 67 LIV.—Tvc irs . 148—146
68
69— 85 | ADDENDA . 147—148
86—100 | INDEX
. 149—152
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB
GROWING.
Chapter 1.—Buibs in Beds and Borders.
@4T is in this particuiar direction that we may
see the most marked growth in the popularity
of bulbs during the past few years, but there
has been a distinct deviaticn from the very
formal lines of a decade ago, when one kind
only was permissible in each bed. Now we
see that in the vast majority of cases two kinds
are employed, and in many instances there are
: ¥4 three. One is bound to appreciate the change
Hee 7) vi in this direction, because the creation of a
— greater variety must add to the interest of the
garden as well from the visitor’s as the owner’s point of view.
Hundreds of thousands, and probably millions, of Hyacinths,
Tulips, Crocuses, Daffodils, and other bulbs are utilised in the
gardens of this country every season, and it is safe to say that there
is not another class of plants which, grown in such immense numbers,
brings so few disappointments to its cultivators. This is accounted
for by the great ease with which they may be grown, and by the
endeavours made by growers to fulfil ail their requirements in
regard to soil, manure, and moisture. That there are failures every
year it were useless to deny, but the majority of these may be said to
be due rather to misfortune than to any fault on the part of the
cultivator. A bed of Tulips, or of Daftodils, may and does fail,
and the gardener is blamed for some supposed error in management,
whereas the true cause can almost invariably be traced to some
inherent fault in the bulbs over which it is absolutely certain the
British grower could not possibly have control, as the trouble is
traceable to the fields of Holland, where the bulbs were brought
forward to supposed flowering size before they were offered to
buyers at home.
Tt should be thoroughly understood by everyone who has bulbs in
his garden that the flower is actually formed for him by the propaga-
8 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
-Y =— i = ~o® ‘ 2 ~_ a = Se
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o PICTORIAL PRACTICE, —PLAIN
FIG. 1—THE PROPER DEPTH
A, Anemone.
B, Winter Aconite,
C. German Iris,
D, Crocus.
E, Snowdrop.
F, Ranunculus,
, English and Spanish Irises.
DEPTHS OF PLANTING BULBS.
- *~5 > = x es TS
ee ye Yr
=~ aw ° ae ff - 2
- a Be TE IHG ree
Lg Sr ed 1 nee ‘¢ 19h tar fo aioe aa ee en Le = LOE LLIEG
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Ee ee oo 6 ND ee area ty
ee CaS a i OLE
So: . as To a “ea? 2 = ag iz Fa a “t reg Yt A re © ey 7 € Pee : Be ae fe : a c + te a Fe:
ao Lae ~ a N s aee f ae s bat Ss uf AOS en = J or gee r Tete fee,
a 4 - caer, “ ae ‘ “4 > , a ee . 6 Le “7
| Dees Se ge aaa Pie 7 * : Se Pilko ye SR
= ay s « gee ‘ ee caer pe rt ee Ets
_ Rr : cee a ah ee are fe Oe 3
Sora ie ar : Dns pata eg BF ’ 4,64
’ ’ e ~4 ATI Ken Win ‘Sa alat WY
x XS R Wath \ gh NY NAal
c : ASA AAR Se ke <n : Ny We &
SSE ES A RTS SA IFPRI
X\ an \ \
SRI SAE SES SASS SENT AQAA ARO SRS
SRE EWR BAY SHAM CAS SN eee \ Wy Ts PAYS LCR ALY AE WON
‘ Be era gay NON AS ya QO NYS SMG, PAAR LAS AL )
ea 2A WEN REN No EN Wes . IN sah we ee Ws UNS ALMA cK \y
~s . \ abe Near a NY Ny \ Ww \ MEX 1€ NEN
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y) == hE 7 High t iy { y) } i ; if r iy Ay é ae
=—_— i 4 ft rs ei ! iy?, Ho 4 } bh Hi? ay! !
7 SS = Riera ie
‘ale f; eH 5 7
) ‘ ‘i fe PY y q an i] i
=————'® * ws 7 Ht CREA di: iy
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= = x a
HINTS- IN FEW WORDS,
TO PLANT BULBS. =
H, Gladiolus,
I, Tulip.
J, Polyanthus Narcissus.
K, Hyacinth.
. L, Belladonna Lily
M, Lilium.
N, Babiana.
10 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
tors, upon whose labours must depend success. They put the
spike into the bulb by their good culture, and it remains for us to
bring that spike to perfection, and it is absolutely certain that if
the flower is not already in the bulb it is beyond the power of the
most skilful grower to bring it out. True, some men will produce
finer results than others with the same material, but this is precisely
similar with all kinds of plants. Knowing that the bloom is
provided before it reaches us should emphasise to the purchaser
the necessity for procuring only the very best, as, though such may
entail a trifle more in first cost, they are infinitely the cheaper
eventually, because they have the stored power to develop superb
flowers, and the skill of the British gardener is more than equal.
to the task of making the bulb bring them forth. To -go and
secure bulbs simply because the price is low, and without paying
the slightest regard to their quality, is to court disaster, and to lay
up trouble for the grower because he has failed to accomplish an
impossibility.
That errors are made it would be idle to dispute, but they
are comparatively rare, and may usually be described as mistakes
due to carelessness rather than to lack of knowledge of the plants’
requirements. When the veriest tyro sets out to grow bulbs it is
probable that he will make some mistakes in their management, just
as he would do were he growing any other plants ; but it does not take
the man of average common sense long to realise in what direction
he has strayed from the proper path, with the result that perhaps his
first failure, as far as cultural matters are concerned, is also his last.
- Let us consider as briefly as may be what are the chief essentials
to success in the cultivation of bulbs in beds and borders in the
open ground. ‘Two things are of outstanding importance: 1, the
preparation of the ground; and 2, the time of planting. In regard
to the former, it is frequently said that under no circumstances
must manure be added to the soil, but to this ought to be added
the qualification, “in such a manner as to come into actual contact
with the bulbs.” One has not to grow Daffodils many years before
the fact is forced upon one that they thrive better, if the soil
is poor, when a dressing of natural manure or superphosphate
(which is preferred by many experts) has been worked in. The
main item to keep in view in applying manure is that it is with
the second, and not with the first spit. If in the top soil, the
bulbs will be in constant contact with it, and the result will be
splitting and very few flowers.
In garden culture, however, it is very often the case that the
soil contains enough food for the sustenance of the plants.
Suceessions of flowers are arranged for, and the bulbs are usually
planted in the beds which had as their summer occupants Dabhlias
and other plants in whose successful growth a fair amount of
manure is required, for they are gross feeding, though not to
such a degree as to leave the mould in a thoroughly impoverished
state. The result is that almost or quite enough food remains to
BEDS OF BULBS. ii
- REFERENCES,
1, scarlet.
2, white,
2, blue.
REFERENCES.
crimson Hyacinths.
light blue Hyacinths,
white Daisies.
double scarlet Prim.
roses.
Alternative, for grass.
white Hyacinths.
light blue Hyacinths,
white Daisies.
scarlet Primroses.
FIG. 3.—A BED OF HYACINTHS, DAISIES, AND
PRIMROSES.
12 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
bring magnificent spikes of Hyacinths to delight us in the spring.
It will then suffice to double dig the ground as soon as the
summer plants have been removed, as this will ensure what food
there is in the soil being distributed equally throughout the
bed, and thus aid in providing an even display of flowers. A
dressing of superphosphate at the rate of 2 oz. per square yard
may be given.
In bulb planting, consideration must be had for the kind of plant
with which we are dealing, as some require different soil and positions
from others. For example, Liliums would fail or, at best, only
produce poor spikes in a situation that would be regarded as an
ideal one for the sun loving Tulip or Daffodil. When it is possible,
the Liliums ought to be given a spot where the base of the
plants will be beneath the shade of other things, such, for instance,
as amidst the Rhododendrons, as their roots will then always
be in the cool, beyond the burning influence of the rays of the
sun. Another reason w hy they appreciate this position is because
many of them are peat lovers, similarly to the plants amidst which
they are growing, though, like them again, they may be successfully
cultivated in well-drained fibrous loam. It is in recognising such
apparently small points as this that the secret of the striking success
of many of our best bulb and plant growers may be said “to lie.
Planting in borders is, in several cases, similar to planting
in beds, but it may, and often does, differ materially therefrom.
When the space to be occupied has been utilised as a ribbon border
with plants of the same types as are grown in beds, then the
preparations will be precisely the same, as in both cases the soil will
have lad manure worked into it in the previous spring. When, —
however, the bulbs are to be planted in clumps between large stools of
herbaceous and other plants, it may be necessary to adopt different
tactics in. order to ensure the greatest success. Here, again, it may
be-said that the soil is usually plenty rich enough “for bulbs, but
should this not be the case it will not be a matter of any difficulty
to excavate some top soil, and with the second spit imcorporate
as much thoroughly decomposed manure as is deemed desirable.
Or if this does not commend itself to the cultivator, either from
lack of manure or other cause, remove a good amount of the
ordinary soil and occupy its place with some old potting mould, this
always being suitable for bulbs. Of all the different kinds that
are commonly grown in our gardens, Daffodils lrke the richest soil.
Anemones give beautiful effects (see p. 13) with a little yard manure.
During comparatively recent years an endeavour has been made
to persuade the inexperienced that bulbs which are planted as late
as, or even later than, Christmas will flower as satisfactorily as those
that are put in position at the end of October or in November.
This is not correct, and in the case of Daffodils there is a distinct
loss of vigour w hen the planting is postponed later than October,
and a marked gain in the quality of the blooms if the bulbs -
can be put into their places in August.
“SANOWANV ASANVdVE Ad GAANACUOT MIVA V—'Vs “HId : é
13
EMONES AT HOME.
a
AN
14 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWLING.
Chapter I1.—-Bulbs in Pots.
NOTWITHSTANDING the unquestioned utility of bulbs for the
adornment of the flower garden in the spring, it is largely to their
value for pot culture that they owe their popularity at the
present time. In this phase of bulb growing they are brought
within the reach of everyone who cares to try his hand, for
a greenhouse is not essential, and they may be grandly grown by -
anyone with a dark cupboard or a dark cellar. When they have
been brought to perfection, or as near thereto as the means at
command will allow, they are amongst the most useful subjects for
room decoration, as, despite the somewhat stiff appearance of
Hyacinths, they last well, smell sweetly, and when associated with
other things produce a beautiful effect in the early months of the year,
when flowers are none too plentiful, and those that can be had are
usually rather expensive of production.
Preparation of the Compost.—Though bulbs will grow and
flower in almost any soil through which water can pass with
reasonable freedom, it is only cultivators who go to some little
trouble in this direction that secure the best results. There is no
need to procure a rich or an elaborate mixture—indeed, one containing
fresh manure is more likely than not to lead to trouble by causing
the growths to split up and produce nothing better than alot of small,
useless stalks that no amount of flattery can call spikes. The
employment of much chemical manure should also be regarded as
taboo, for the inclusion of too much will inevitably spell failure.
If it is used at all, let it be in very small quantities; but a great
many successful growers refrain from it altogether, and do what
feeding may be desirable when the plant is throwing up its spike.
The compost that has been found to answer best over a protracted
series of experiments is the very simple one of 3 parts of sound
loam, 1 part of thoroughly decomposed leaf mould, an 8-inch potful of
soot to every bushel of soil, and sufficient coarse sand to ensure
the whole allowing water to pass freely through it.
It is very desirable, though not absolutely essential to success,
that the compost be mixed some time prior to its use, as in this
case the several ingredients appear to become more thoroughly
incorporated than when the utilisation follows immediately upon
the mixing. The actual state of the compost at the time of potting
has a material effect upon the ultimate results. If it be very dry, and
the precaution is not taken of carefully moistening it before use, it
is a difficult matter to bring it into a proper state afterwards ;
POTS FOR BULBS. 15
while if it be sodden, the trouble, though in another direction, is
equally great, as the bulbs decline to send their roots into a soil that
is sour through excessive wet. Have it in what gardeners call an
even condition of moisture, as not only willthis be better for the bulbs,
but the potting will prove much easier to do. If dry, it must be
watered ; and if wet, let it be dried a little before the work is started.
_ Suitable Pots.—Hand in hand with the preparation of the
soil runs the selecting of the pots. New ones are sometimes used for
the purpose, but neither for bulbs nor any other plants are they
good unless they have previously been thoroughly soaked, as when
perfectly new they quickly absorb water from the soil, and leave it
dry when the cultivator expects that it is pleasantly moist. When
old pots are employed they should be well washed prior to use, not
because repotting is likely to be done, but to remove lurking insects,
as well as to create as good an appearance as possible. The provision
for drainage is an important item in the preparatory operations, and
it must not be scanty on the one hand or over abundant on the
other. The ordinary system of placing one large piece of crock
hollow side downwards, then other smaller pieces round it, with still
smaller above these, and covering the whole by some of the rougher
portions of the compost or a layer of coarse moss, cannot be beaten
if it is properly carried out. The object of the upper surfacing is to
prevent the fine particles of soil washing down into the drainage,
and thus choking it to such a degree as to arrest the water in its
downward progress and leave the roots in soured soil, in which they
are apt to decay in a manner that bodes ill for the results of our bulb
display in the spring. |
Sizes of Pots.—Repeated experiments have forced us to the
conclusion that in the majority of cases the pots employed are quite
one size, and frequently two sizes, too large. For all Hyacinths,
except those producing very big bulbs, hke La Franchise, Grand
Maitre, and Grandeur a Merveille, what is known as a 54 pot, that
is to say a pot 4 inches in diameter at the top, is quite large enough
for all general purposes, and with judicious feeding spikes sufficiently -
fine for exhibition can be secured. The use of 6-inch pots allows
the roots too much room at the outset, and of course the pots
occupy a great deal more space, which is a good enough reason for
their avoidance by amateurs, even if there were no other. This size
is admirable when three bulbs of Hyacinths are put in one pot, or
three Narcissi, five Tulips, or five Roman Hyacinths. (For methods
of potting Narcissi in threes, see Fig. 4, p. 19. The instructions
apply to other Narcissi and Tulips.) The objection held by many
people to the use of small pots is that the limited amount of soil
cannot possibly provide sufficient food for the plants. This is,
however, an easily surmounted difficulty when the highest degree of
activity is attained to, for then feeding with suitable foods may
be commenced in real earnest, and the benefit to the plants will be
infinitely greater than when rich food was provided at the outset.
Potting.—Simple as this operation undoubtedly is to those of
16 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
experience, it frequently proves a stumbling block to the tyro, who is
either too light or too heavy handed in carrying out the work. The
correct degree of firmness to which the soil should be carried is not
easy to explain, indeed it can only be thoroughly realised by constant
practice ; but the observant grower soon grasps what is wrong with
his plants, and a little thought will usually lead him to the true
reason of the trouble. The first thing is to have a goodly number of
pots of one or more sizes, according to requirements, prepared for use,
all crocks being carefully placed in position ; then will commence
the actual operation. Sufficient soil should be placed loosely in the
pot to reach within about 14 inches of the edge of the rim, then lft
and rap sharply on the potting bench, and the soil will generally be
found to go down far enough to allow of the bulb being placed on the
surface or in a very slight depression, and leave its upper extremity
level with the soil when the work is completed. Should this not prove
to be the case, less mould must be put in to start with, and when once
the proper amount has been ascertained the progress will be rapid
and the work well done. (For potting Hyacinths, see Fig. 38, p. 17.)
Some successful cultivators pursue a different system with equally
satisfactory results. They put in a little soil at a time, making it
firm as they proceed, until the correct amount is in the pot; but
in this there 1s an ever present liability of getting the mass too
solid, which will never occur if the previously recommended method
is adopted. It is necessary that the rapping upon the bench be
very sharp, or the soil will not settle down properly. .
If the soil is in a properly moist state at the time of potting, it
will not be necessary to apply any water either then or for a consider-
able time afterwards; but there must be no doubt in the matter,
and if dryness is suspected let the soil be well moistened through to
the drainage before the pots are plunged. Unless this is done, the
soil will become like dust in the plunging material, and the roots
of the bulbs will not work in it in anything like a satisfactory
manner. This involves a loss of valuable time, and the flowering
season is much retarded and often so prejudiced that handsome
spikes are never developed. Assuming that everything possible
has been done to ensure a good start, the next phase of bulb culture
in pots may be considered. |
Plunging.-—At the first glance novices are sometimes unable to
see the utility of this operation, but its desirability can never be
called into question by those who have seen the results of its
neglect. So important is it that it may justifiably be termed one
of the chief essentials to success. To make its importance more
readily appreciated by the uninitiated, the objects of plunging may
be briefly set forth. There are three things for which we aim, and
they are of equal importance : 1, the encouragement of root action; 2,
the discouragement of top growth until such time as there are
plenty of roots to supply it with food; and 3, the reduction of
evaporation to a minimum, so that it will not be necessary to apply
water until the pots are ready to be removed from the plunging
1?
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ND PLUNGING HYACINTHS.
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18 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
material to the light for the development of the flower. The absence
of light prevents the excitement that goes to the swelling of the
spike, and the bulb has nothing else and nothing better to do than to
emit abundance of sound roots with which to imbibe food for the
benefit of the plant at a later date. The disadvantage of having
to give water in the very early stages lies in the danger of the soil
becoming sour, simply because there are no roots actively working in
it. Of course, it is better to apply water than to allow the compost
to remain perfectly dry for any length of time, but it is desirable
to avoid it, 1f possible, by the means indicated.
Many growers of bulbs have to neglect the plunging entirely,
simply because they have no available place. Dwellers in towns
suffer most in this direction, but they need not despair of being
~ able to produce fine Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, or other bulbous
flowers, provided they have a dark cellar or cupboard whose tem-
perature is not too warm and dry to accommodate the pots during
the stage at which they would be plunged under more favourable
conditions. When this means of starting the bulbs has to be
resorted to, the utmost care must be taken in the watering that
will have to be done, giving only sufficient to keep the soil just. moist
from the surface down to the drainage. The pots ought to be
examined as frequently as possible, so as to guard against absolute
dryness; as when this state is reached it is most difficult to get the
soil moist again without having recourse to plunging in a bucket,
which is undesirable.
The length of time during which it is essential that the pots
shall be plunged varies considerably, as it is affected by the time of
potting, by the temperature of the plunging bed, and the earliness
of the sort. The usual period is six weeks, but it is preferable to
lay down no hard and fast rule, as one can easily decide the correct
moment for removal by frequent examinations made after the pots
have been buried for between three and four weeks, by which time
distinct advance will be evidenced. In the dark the initial move-
ment in the bulbs will be towards the production of roots, and when
upon examination it is found that the top has grown to the size of
a fine Filbert Nut, it is almost invariably safe to assume that roots
are sufficiently numerous to warrant the removal of the pots from the
plunging material into the light, when the energies of the plant will
be about equally divided between the growth above and below the
surface. (See Fig. 33, p. 17.)
Material for Plunging. —The best material for this purpose is
undoubtedly cocoanut fibre refuse, as it is light, warm, impervious
to light, and will turn a fair shower of rain. Failing this, ashes may
be employ ed, but unfortunately some coals produce ‘ashes containing
a property poisonous to the tender top growth, and disaster follows ;
for this reason they should be avoided if anything else can be secured
at moderate cost. Dry leaf mould is successfully used by some
cultivators, but with this again there is an element of danger, as it
may contain insect or other pests which will find in the sweet, tender
POTTING NARCISSI.
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FIG. 4.—POTTING PAPER WHITE NARCISSI.
A, section of 6-inch pot: a, drainage ; b, rough soil; c, finer soil; d, bulbs ; e, space for water.
B, plunging bed: jf, ash base ; g, ashes or cocoanut fibre refuse ; h, the same 6 inches deep over pots.
C, removed from plunging bed: 4, roots; j, top growth.
20 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
tops food to their liking, and this, of course, will mean more or less
damage to the plants. In respect of the best place for the plunging
bed, there is often not much choice, but beside a wall of any kind is
as good as any, as it is there usually comparatively easy to afford
protection whenever 1t may be deemed necessary. When an open
position has to be utilised, it is wise to have permanent provision
made for throwing off the heaviest rains; old mats, pieces of
tarpaulin, or unused lights can be requisitioned, and will render
invaluable service. |
Indoor plunging beds are frequently made up, and with proper
care answer well, but there is always greater liability to drip when
beneath stages, as well as the probability of the warmth encouraging
earlier growth than is desirable for the good of the plants. However,
they must be used at times, and in these cases they should be as
carefully covered as those out of doors. Broadly speaking, all bulbs
should be plunged, but in Freesias we havea notable exception, these
often causing much trouble when treated in the orthodox manner.
Removal from the Dark.—This is really one of the crucial
periods in the cultural life of the plant, for it is easy at this stage to.
spoil our chances of success by a small error. It is not hkely that
anyone would so treat the plants as to preclude the development of any
spike, but they might prejudice them sufficiently to represent the
difference between an exhibition specimen and one that was drawn
and poor in colour both in flower and leaf. When the time is reached
for removal, the grower should bear in mind the fact that until now
the progress has been wholly in darkness, and this will impress upon
him the importance of guarding against a sudden shock, such as is
entailed by bringing the pots directly from total darkness into
brilliant light. Immediately on removal the pots should be tested
to ascertain 1f water is required, giving or withholding it according
to the result of a careful test; then they should be stood on the stage
in a greenhouse, or upon a table if grown indoors, and covered with
two thicknesses of brown paper or several sheets of newspaper. Allow
this to remain for two or three days, and then reduce it slightly so
as to admit an appreciable amount of light ; in a few more days take
away more paper, until it can be seen that the top growth is assuming
a deep green colour, when all protection can be dispensed with, and
the plants have the fullest benefit that unobstructed light can confer
upon them.
Feeding.— Whether special food is employed in the mixing of
the compost or not, it is desirable, if the finest spikes are wanted, to
feed when the spike is half developed with some suitable manure.
Application may be made either in dry form or as a liquid, and, all
things considered, the latter is preferable. The utmost care must
be taken not to overdo the applications, either in frequency or in
strength, as such an error leads to harm rather than good. One
of the most valuable aids to advancement will be found in soot,
as, apart from encouraging growth, it serves an excellent purpose in
enriching the colours of both the leaves and the flowers, and thus
A GOOD HYACINTH.
. 5.—HYACINTH MORENO, A GOOD BLUSH FOR POTS.
FIG
|
22 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
materially enhancing the beauty of the plants. Nitrate of soda is
frequently resorted to, but unless it is given with the greatest care
it is very dangerous, as it is liable to damage the tender roots
crowded in a small space. If it is used at all, it should not be
stronger than ¢ oz. to 1 gallon of water, but 4 oz. of super-
phosphate per gallon is better. Any food made from natural
manures may be employed, provided it is given in weak doses, and
that each application alternates with one of pure water. Above
all things, do not over feed, as this is infinitely worse than not
feeding at all.
Forcing Bulbs.—'T'o everyone who has a greenhouse, bulbous
plants are of such enormous value in the spring months that it
would be a matter for surprise rather than otherwise if strenuous
endeavours were not made to bring them into flower before their
normal time. Fortunately for cultivators, bulbs are very tractable
in this respect, and, provided we use reasonable precautions, flowers
will be available over several months, and this at a period when they
will render splendid service. By pushing on the one hand, and
retarding on the other, we can have a supply of bulbous plants for
the conservatory or the greenhouse from mid-November until the
following May, or a period of six months. Such a protracted time
would, of course, necessitate the utilisation of large numbers of
bulbs, and the exercise of a considerable amount of skill in their
management, but, given these things, with proper facilities for grow-
ing, the difficulties will be easily surmounted.
As the details of soil preparation and potting are precisely the
same as for ordinary culture, it were a waste of valuable space to
deal with them now, as would-be forcers have merely to imbibe the
instructions already given to equip them on points of detail.
The thing that the grower must realise first of all is that all
varieties of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, or what not are not equally
amenable to forcing treatment, and in respect of the last named
particularly neglect of attention to this matter will lead to the
greatest disappointment. The bulbs that are forced in the greatest
numbers, thereby proving themselves to be the best fitted for the
purpose, are White Roman Hyacinths, Van Thol Tulips, Double
Roman, Paper White, and a few other Narcissi (a simple rule of
guidance in choosing the latter will be given in due course), some
Liliums, and several others of much assistance, but not of sufficient
importance to warrant special mention at this juncture. All the
so-called Dutch Hyacinths and Tulips may be persuaded to throw
up their flowers a little quicker by handling them carefully, but
they cannot be regarded as suitable for forcing, as any attempt at
rushing things will result in disaster.
No matter whether one is dealing with Roman Hyacinths or
anything else, a good foundation of roots must be secured before
any attempt is made to force, and until this is done it is well for
the grower to proceed along the lines suggested in the preceding
paragraphs. Encourage plenty of healthy roots and a nice green
‘SdITOAL JO LOd GOOD V—-'9 ‘*SId
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24 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
top, and anything reasonable in the way of artificial heat will be
promptly and satisfactorily responded to. To place the newly potted
Romans directly into heat does not necessarily imply failure, but
simply that one cannot be so sure of success. As the plants advance
for flowering, they must have regular supplies of water, with liquid
manure according to their requirements, making certain that they
have ample food at all times, or the spikes, which compared with
those of the Dutch Hyacinths are never very large, will be almost
oe small to be of material value, unless the bulbs were especially
ne.
Where abundance of Hyacinths and Narcissi are wanted for
cutting purposes, pots should not be employed, as far more produce
can be secured from the same amount of space and attention by
_ putting bulbs into shallow boxes, such, for example, as those which
are commonly used for the reception of cuttings when large numbers
have to be struck. It is not absolutely necessary to make any pro-
vision for drainage, though it is advantageous to have four or five
holes burnt in the bottom of the box, over which some rough
drainage can be placed, so as to make everything as favourable for
the bulbs as possible. These may be put quite closely together in
the boxes, but ought not to touch each other if it can be avoided.
They can be placed in the dark or not, according to convenience,
as their life is so short that the fact of the roots being some-
what limited in quantity does not seriously affect the quality of
the spikes. The motto with Romans in boxes is a short life and
a merry one. Tulips and Narcissi may be treated in a precisely
similar manner, and will prove equally as satisfactory. The
former, however, whether in pots or boxes, will require consider-
ably more water than the other, if the very finest results are sought
for. :
Time of Potting.—The period at which the bulbs are potted
varies with the time that they are wanted to flower, and it is always
desirable to give as much grace as possible, as it is far easier to
retard the plants a little than it is to hurry them unduly at the last
moment. From August-potted bulbs of Romans there should be
no difficulty in having good flowers in November, and successional
pottings or boxings, as the case may be, will provide plenty of
spikes until well into the new year. Van Thol Tulips will advance
at about the same rate, but Narcissi must be allowed a little longer,
as when pushed too hard they are prone to go blind after the buds
are formed. Dutch Hyacinths are procurable in September, and
may be potted at once, or kept to a more convenient time, up
to December, when all should be got in without further delay.
The ideal time is probably the middle of October, but each grower
must exercise his own judgment, and pot so as to have the plants in
bloom when they are likely to be of the greatest use to him. Some
people have taken to deferring the potting until well on in January,
but this is really too late, though it is not actually imperative,
as was considered years ago. that every bulb should be potted
BULBS AFTER FLOWERING. 95
before it was showing the green tip of the growth in the apex.
None except the finest bulbs, procured from sources of the highest
repute. must- be employed for potting, more particularly when
forcing is to be done. | |
Bulbs After Flowering.—The manner in which bulbs that
have produced splendid flowers are treated is little short of dis-
graceful, for they are cast aside as though they never were and
never could be of any value. It is certainly false economy to retain
bulbs for pot culture from year to year, as new ones that will
produce far better flowers can be purchased very cheaply, but, at
the same time, those which have done good service may be made to
do something more, if they are correctly handled after flowering.
For planting in borders of mixed plants they are invaluable, while
for woodlands they are practically as useful as newly bought stock.
They never develop such handsome trusses after the first season
of blooming, but the spikes they do produce are valuable for cutting,
which is more than can be said for the early ones, as these are too
stiff to have any value for this purpose. Tulips and Narcissi are
even more serviceable than Hyacinths for planting out.
The proper way to treat them may be described as briefly as
possible, for the benefit of those who have been in the habit of
throwing away useful material. As soon as the spike has passed its
best stage, let it be removed, as its retention means that it is
faking a certain amount of sustenance for which it will give no
return. It is to the leaves that we must look to secure some
recompense for our labours now, as they contain much stored
material that will be of use to us if we can get it transferred to
the bulb in the soil. This is induced by keeping the leaves green
for a reasonable period, this being ensured by regular, though
lessened, supplies of water. If these are given, the foliage gradually
ilies down, sending its store of nutriment into the bulbs in the
process ; first the upper extremities of the leaf turn yellow, this
slowly spreading to the base, when the work of the leaves may be
said to be concluded, and they should be removed. No better way
of managing the plants can be suggested than this, and it has the
merit of being extremely simple. |
There is one other way in which the bulbs may be treated after
they have done flowering, and it has, what will be a distinct recom-
mendation in the eyes of many people, the merit of being even easier
than the one already suggested. This is to plant them out directly
they have finished blooming, removing the spike, but not the leaves,
in the manner directed in the preceding paragraphs. For this
purpose a piece of ground in good heart should be chosen, and for
preference it should be shaded from the hottest sun, as strong
sunshine will rush the ripening of the leaves along too fast for them
to confer the fullest benefit upon the bulbs. If the soil be naturally
very dry, it will be necessary to give one or two thorough soak-
ings of clear water, it not being desirable to use any liquid manure
at this stage. Im the event of the only available space being
26 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWLING.
excessively poor, it will be decidedly advantagous to dig in some
thoroughly rotted manure, but it must be put in the second spit.
Staking the Plants.—When the culture has been thoroughly
good at all stages, it will be found imperative to give the grand
spikes of Hyacinths, the glowing flowers of Tulips, or the big
Narcissi some assistance, or they will certainly collapse by their
own great weight. As this completely spoils their appearance, it
must be prevented by timely staking. It is unfortunate with
‘
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FIG. 7—A WIRE SUPPORT FOR HYACINTHS
A Wire Support for Hyacinths.—Get about 18 inches of wire, or as
much as is required that will work easily, double it up so that both sides are
equal, put a stick through the top to form a loop, then twist it down to
about 4 inches from the ends, bending these out wide enough to go over
the bulb, The loop at the top is to tie the blooms to, The first sketch
shows the support twisted, the other plain.
Hyacinths that the bulbs are so large as to render it impossible to
get the stake quite close to the spike, and an ungainly stick by no
means adds to the good effect. To obviate any trouble in this
respect, the best way is to have very small sticks sharply pointed,
and force the end into the bulb itself, where it will stand firmly,
and, lying closely to the spike, will not be unsightly. The objection
may be raised that such a method of procedure is sure to damage
the bulb. And so it will in a minute degree, but it will certainly
not affect the present year’s spike. For planting in the border—
and this is the ultimate home of most of the pot-grown bulbs—the
small hole is little if any detriment, as the bulbs appear to flower
just as well as when they have not been thus barbarously treated.
BULBS IN GLASSES, 27
Chapter Hi.—Bulbs in Glasses.
OnE of the most interesting phases of bulb culture is that of
growing a certain number of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, and a few
Crocuses in water, glasses suitable for the purpose being readily
procurable. It is distinctly an aspect of gardening that appeals to
the ladies, as it is perfectly clean, and the results are usually very
gratifying to the cultivator. Of all systems it is the one which
demands the finest bulbs, and by this is not meant the largest, as is
sometimes thought, but those that are perfectly. sound in every
respect, or they will fail to bring their spikes to perfection. Even
under the most favourable conditions, it is seldom that the flowers
are as good as those produced by bulbs in soil, as these can get so
much more nourishment; but they are nevertheless most pleasing,
and, besides, can be grown by those to whom pot culture is an
impossibility.
Selections of bulbs for all purposes are given, but for water
culture it is always wise to leave the choice of varieties to the vendor,
as he can then pick them from those having bulbs best suited to
the purpose in view, which is, of course, made known to him at
the time of ordering. Glasses of several elegant patterns are
available, and the choice rests with the purchaser, but it is certain
that the bulbs thrive as well in what is styled the “old” shape as in
any. These are upright, and are admirably suited for placing upon
a window ledge when the spikes are well advanced. The glasses
with broader bases are more useful for standing upon tables or
mantelpieces, where there is an ever present liability of knocking
them over. Whatever shape is decided upon, either those that are
of dark colours or opaque should be given the preference over clear
glass, as the roots will keep healthy much longer than when they are
exposed to the full light through clean glass.
Soft water is far better for bulbs in giasses than that obtained
from the pipes, though this has generally to be used, for the simple
reason that the former is unprocurable in many places. In either
case, one or two lumps of charcoal ought to be placed in each
receptacle, as this will be of material assistance in keeping the water
sweet, though it will not, as some people suppose, provide the
plants with any food. The food is found in the water, and is, of
course, in greater abundance in soft than in hard water. The base
of the bulb need not come in actual contact with the water, but
must: be so close thereto as to only allow a thin piece of note-paper
to be placed between. There will be gradual loss, of course, and
28 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
from time to time this must be made good by the addition of
fresh supplies, and if necessary by the substitution for the original
liquid of sweet, fresh water ; it is not desirable to have recourse
to the latter expedient unless the water becomes objectionable, as
the roots may be damaged in the process to a serious extent. If it
be imperative, have fresh water and charcoal immediately at hand,
withdraw the roots, turn out the stagnant water, thoroughly rinse
the receptacle, and put in the fresh supplies as quickly and as care-
fully as possible, never during the operation allowing draughts to
strike upon the roots. In reading this sounds quite a long and
laborious task, but in reality it will prove to be the work of a very
few moments.
When the bulbs are in position the glasses must be put in a
dark cupboard, or other convenient place, in the same way and for
precisely the same purpose as bulbs in pots. Here they may remain
until such time as they have made ample root growth, no cognisance
whatever being taken of the leaf growth in this case.
The support that is essential in pot culture becomes doubly so
with plants in glasses, as they have absolutely no anchorage at all.
Home-made contrivances may be employed if desired, but they are
not usually as satisfactory as the properly formed wire supports that
are sold by bulb merchants expressly for the purpose. These are of
very’ moderate price, and with proper care will last an indefinite
period ; they are neat in appearance, very strong, and can be adjusted
in asecond or two. When bulbs in glasses have done flowering it is
best to throw them away, as they are so much exhausted by bringing
large spikes to perfection under such unnatural conditions that they
are not worth a moment’s retention. These cultural remarks may
be accepted as applying to all kinds of bulbs that are grown in
water, and are not intended to refer to Hyacinths alone, though
these are named as examples, they being far away the most popular,
and, it may be added, the most satisfactory for the purpose.
HYACINTHS IN GLASSES.
~ aes
dos
aN
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\N
\ y 2g 2 ; Oe SM EE
\\ ag ; 4 —ab| her] 8 Fg ee | « aaa
— oo ZG Z — en me . OY — A
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—— bea ee Z = <<a ee > bw oe nent BAER ar Athi \
he EO el A a —<——- : < z= SS p> ™ SA) eee : eS
——— = Bh = : aa = : — ae - eS — =< ° ig
————————— fi Sa , z _—— = EE ———— Se de Se 3
ie —S =O rae SS = 3
tt mS Ne = Ss ae a = Sma y : Bb / A Z
—_——. —— = - — rs = —— — f fe by: 4 E.
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FIG. 8—A ROMAN HYACINTH IN A
BOVRIL BOTTLE.
29
30 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter IV.—Bulbs in Vases and Bowls.
Tus very delightful manner of bulb growing has come into special
prominence during comparatively recent years, in fact since the now
well-known mixture of fibre and shell was brought before the public
for this express purpose. Long prior to this, of course, bulbs were
grown in bowls of gravel and water, the Chinese Joss Lily (a form
of Narcissus Tazetta) being highly recommended. ‘There were, how-
ever, so many failures, or at best only partial successes, that growers
were prompt to turn to other and better methods the instant these
were placed before them. With this fibre and shell compound
practically all bulbs will flourish, though some naturally do better
than others, Tulips and the Incomparabilis forms of Narcissi being
particularly desirable owing to their graceful habit of growth.
One can imagine no more delightful form of bulb growing than
this, especially for ladies, as it ensures excellent flowers in elegant
receptacles, that are eminently suitable for standing upon the dining
and drawing room tables, and thus allowing the lady to show her
friends how successful she has been in the culture of bulbs. Another
thing in connection with it that will appeal to the fair sex is its
absolute cleanliness, it not being necessary to more than very slightly
soil the fingers in carrying out the whole of the work therewith.
Any small jars may be requisitioned for the purpose, those in which
cream is sold being as good as any, though they do not look so well
as those that are made expressly for bulbs, as these have designs upon
them which add to the charming effect that is produced. Anyone
feeling reluctant to spend money before knowing exactly what they
can do in the direction indicated, should try their ’prentice hands
with some cream jugs, and if they exercise care they will certainly be
more than satisfied with the results they will achieve.
The great advantage of using jugs, or jars, or bowls with the
fibre is that no drainage is required, and no provision is made
for it, so that there can be no objection to their use on the score
that they will make tablecloths dirty, even if they do not spoil them,
as too frequently occurs when ordinary pots are used. If there isa
secret in the successful production of bulbs in these undrained
receptacles, it lies, beyond a doubt, in having the material in the
proper state of moisture to start with, and in keeping it thus
throughout the life history of the plant. This, it may at once be
said, is not an easy thing to do, and, unfortunately, no directions
that will assist the cultivator can be given, as the conditions of no
two houses are precisely alike ; it therefore resolves itself wholly into
HYACINTHS IN BOWLS. 3]
a matter of individual judgment. The greatest danger lies in the.
bulbs being forgotten for some days, and then having a lot of water
applied, under the erroneous impression that it is thus possible to
make up for lost time. The rule should be to look carefully over
the plants each day, giving water the instant it is necessary, but
never before.
_A pretty Hyacinth bowl, B, can be made by cutting holes the
size of the bulbs in a round piece of wood, as shown in the illus-
tration at A. This should be placed about 1 inch deep in the bowl
to rest the bulbs on.
When the “ potting” is done, have the compost pleasantly moist,
that is to say, so that it will adhere slightly to the fingers when it is
handled. Make it moderately firm, but do not attempt to leave it as
hard as a road, and have the nose of the bulb just protruding
through the surface when the operation is completed. Beyond this,
YY Se eae
AeA TES my
facons) 4
COAL “7
Sie / ag 3
FIG. 9—A BOWL OF HYACINTHS.
treat the bulbs exactly as for pots, and in due course fine flowers
will come as a reward for the labour expended. In addition to the
Incomparabilis varieties, the Polyanthus Narcissi grow splendidly, as
also do some of the large trumpets. After flowering, the bulbs
should be thrown away, and a start made in the succeeding year
with a fresh stock.
32 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter Y.—Bulbs in Window Boxes.
THERE are few people who cannot have a window box if they
want one. Not that the lot of the owner of window boxes is
invariably a happy one, especially if he be so unfortunate as to
dwell in a town where everyone is not as honest as the day, for the
plants and boxes are apt to develop wings and hie them away to
other and more desolate spheres. It is poor consolation indeed to a
man who has suffered thus to be told that he is certainly brightening
somebody’s home, though there may be some philosophers about who
regard it in this way. |
What window gardeners would do for their spring display
without the indispensable Dutch bulb one shudders to think, for it
will be quite safe to assert that out of every ten boxes filled to look
beautiful in the early months of the year, eight, and perhaps nine,
either owe their charms to bulbs entirely or are largely filled with
them. The reasons for this popularity are not far to seek. The
plants are extremely easy to grow, they do not démand a great
amount of attention after once being put into their places until the
spring, they can be procured for a very small outlay of cash, and
they produce a singularly charming effect, notwithstanding what the
hypercritical say about their stiffness. One occasionally hears it
asserted that the use of Dutch bulbs does not permit of any change
being made in the style of dressing from one year to another, but
this 1s an error, as many have proved over and over again. It really
resolves itself into a question of whether the cultivator possesses a —
spark of originality or not, for if he does he will soon ring some
decided changes, even though the scope be limited.
For window box culture bulbous plants are unique in utility,
inasmuch as while we can, if necessary, find substitutes for all other
plants, such a course is not possible with the bulbs which stand
alone for spring effects. ‘To ensure the very best results it is
imperative that there be two boxes for each window, or during the
winter months, when the bulbs are making root progress alone, the
sills must be quite bare—an occurrence that may be easily and
satisfactorily overcome by adopting the duplicate box system, as one
may then have small Conifers for winter adornment while the bulbs
are being brought slowly onward for employment in the early spring.
Whichever method commends itself to the cultivator, he will.
BOXES FOR. BULBS.
ee Te, et NE
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SOLON GLU OL.
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o4 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
adopt the same initial principles to bring SUCCESS. The boxes are, of
course, made of the proper size to fit the window sills, and they may
be faced with cork or tiles entirely at the discretion of the owner,
though if the latter are selected it behoves the purchaser to proceed
warily or he will find that he has chosen a tile that immensely
detracts from the floricultural effect. Each box must have a certain ~
number of holes from which the water will pass freely, and as an
additional precaution it is desirable that small struts be fixed on the
base so as to elevate the erection about 1 inch above the stone sill.
The soil for bulbs in boxes may advantageously be similar to that
used in pot culture, but if this 1s not convenient excellent results
will accrue from the use of ordinary garden mould, provided special ©
care 1s exercised in the matter of drainage and in regard to the feed-
ing that will be necessary at a later date. An abundance of material
to ensure drainage should be utilised, and it must be most carefully
protected from the incursions of the tine soil by the use of plenty of
the rougher portions of the compost or some coarse moss. There
should be no hesitation in using a lot of material at the bottom
of the receptacle, as this is almost invariably made quite 3 inches
deeper than it need be as far as the bulbs are concerned, so that one
can easily afford space for the purpose indicated. The reduction of
the bulk of soil is not only convenient but desirable, because it
reduces the probability of souring to the lowest point. Later on,
when the bulbs have made plenty. of roots and are swelling up the
flower spikes, 1t is a very simple matter indeed to make up for any
deficiency in the soil by special feeding with liauid or concentrated
foods in the manner suggested for bulb growing in pots. At that
stage the plants are gross feeders, and the food given is instantly
appropriated by the roots, wliereas had it been put in at the start
much of the best ingredients would have been wasted.
In the selection of the bulbs to be employed the owner must, of
' course, decide for himself, as there can be no governing factor other
than personal taste, but it is always desirable for window gardeners
to remember that they are cultivating for the general public as well
as for themselves to a much greater degree than those who follow
up any other phase of the art. They should, therefore, plant ina
manner that they have reason to believe will meet with universal
acceptance, and not in a style that will possibly irritate the nerves
cf every passer-by. It is thus that the gardener may do such a lot of
good, for it is more than probable that ‘the delightful style of plant-
ing which he has adopted will lead some fresh recruit into the ranks
of window gardeners ; and thus our streets and roads will continue
to grow in beauty until ail sills have their occupants, and our town
and village streets will be infinitely improved.
All the hardy bulbs are available for window box planting, but
there are some whose value is very much greater than that of others.
Three kinds rise conspicuously above all others in general utility,
and these, it is almost needless to state, are Hyacinths, Narcissi,
and Tulips, with Crocuses, Scillas, and Snowdrops to furnish the
SUITABLE BULBS FOR BOXES. do
front. Unless there is some special reason for doing so, it is not
desirable to plant in the perfectly straight lines that one usually -
observes, though the cultivator has an excuse for this in that he is
following the lines of the structure. At the same time slight
irregularity is almost certain to produce a finer effect. Tall Tulips
of imposing appearance, Keizer’s Kroon for example, might have
the position closest. to the window, with white Hyacinths in front,
and, if the box has no greater holding capacity than three rows,
golden yellow Crocuses intermingled with Scilla Sibirica as an
-edging. ‘This is one of the simplest arrangements that can be found,
but at the same time it is one of the most effective.
If it is feasible, as it will be where there are two boxes for each
window, the receptacle, after planting, should be placed in some dark
position precisely as would be done in the case of bulbs in pots or in
glasses and for exactly the same purpose. Do not apply any water
at all before it becomes imperative to do so, and then give just
sufficient to thoroughly moisten the compost right through to the
drainage. The surface may be covered with cocoanut fibre refuse, as
well to improve the general appearance as to reduce the necessity for
watering by conserving the moisture in the soil. When the move-
ment in and above the mould is active, the top growth should be
gradually inured to the full light in the same manner and with the
same care as that of bulbs which are growing in pots. Never try to
force the plants to come into flower, as though one can easily hasten
them a little, it is bad policy, because they will feel the cold so much
when put out that the probabilities are they will succumb.
36 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter Vi.—Bulbs in the Woodland.
THE very sound of the heading of the present chapter will appal the
town gardener, whose area is limited to so many square feet of cat- -
infested land. He will probably pass it over with a shrug of the
shoulders and a muttered expression of its uselessness, and, mayhap,
a pang of envy at his more fortunate brethren who are blessed with
woodlands in which to plant bulbs and wander at will. Assuredly
woodland walks and dells add immensely to the interest of any
estate, particularly when beneficent Nature has done the planting
for us in her own inimitable way. If we gardeners could copy
Nature with perfect accuracy, our gardens, especially in the wilder
portions such as the woodland, would be infinitely more beautiful
than they are ; but, failing in this, we must do our best with Nature as
the teacher. ,
The observant travelling horticulturist soon realises that Nature’s
motto is summed up in one short word, ‘“ boldness.” Look at the
Bluebells (see p. 37) and the Lilies of tle Valley in the wood, the |
Heather on the hillside, the Willow Herb on the waste ground, and
see whether they do not all create an air of boldness, even though it
may be, and often is, softened down by its surroundings until it
appears as the sweetest simplicity. These are merely a few instances
out of the many that could be cited, but they suffice for the
_ present purpose, which is to impress upon woodland. planters the
absolute necessity for strong conceptions, or an effect may be
produced that will be nothing more than a poor burlesque upon ©
Nature in one of her most delightful guises. True, one must always —
adopt the tailor’s law and cut according to the cloth, but it is
irrefutable that in woodland planting the finest effects are pro-
duced when we can think in thousands and plant in acres.
It is no easy matter to plant woodland walks and glades success-
fully, as so much depends upon the soil and the trees, which will
inevitably bring failure to some bulbs, while others would flourish
and increase enormously. Here, again, it is the soundest of sound ~
advice to say, ‘‘Copy Nature.” When it is decided to plant, spend
as much time as can be afforded in the neighbouring woods studying
the vegetation there, and taking particular note of the plants that
are known to spring from a bulbous root. Never hurry over this, as
it will certainly prove to be time well spent, for it is no small loss to
put in, as one may easily do at this work, 10,000 or 20,000 bulbs,
only to find them fail owing to some local inadaptability, which could
readily have been avoided by the exercise of care and forethought in
Ss ~~
i vee yo
O”
BLUEBELLS IN A WOOD.
aqoOoM V NI STT2daN Td
IL
Id
a aaa ae ae a ee rd
38 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
the direction indicated. It is not merely the cost of the bulbs
themselves that is thrown away; we have also to consider the time
that has been expended in planting, and the disappointment that
must accrue from the loss of the display for one or move years. 4
Apart from the thorough appreciation of the facts set forth, the |
actual process of planting will be the same as in that for grass |
gardening, only that the work will not be quite so carefully done, |
as the loss of a dozen bulbs out of several thousands will not cause
any serious regret, as would be the case where only a hundred or so
_ had been put in. Of course, this must not be read as inferring that
simply throwing the bulbs into their places without care or thought |
of the results should be tolerated, for this is by no means the case. |
It is intended to convey the idea that the elaboration of detail may |
be safely avoided, but does not warrant the planter in going beyond |
all the bounds of reason.
Broadly speaking, all the kinds of bulbs that can be grown in the |
grass are available for woodland planting, but actually such is not |
the case, for it behoves the majority of us at any rate to take some |
cognisance of cost, and this alone will put many very beautiful |
bulbous plants quite out of court, as the expense of purchasing the |
requisite number would be utterly prohibitive. Apart altogether |
from the monetary aspect of the question, we have also to keep in |
view the fact that we are now about to produce a bold effect, for |
which purpose it is probable that a cheap Daffodil or other bulb will |
be equally as serviceable as one that cost ten times the money; we |
are not proposing to study the points of an individual flower, but to |
create a spectacle that will charm by its breadth and boldness. For |
these reasons it will be permissible to recommend the purchase of |
the cheaper Daffodils, Crocuses, Tulips, Scillas, and any others for |
which there may be a desire, remembering always that the pot grown |
bulbs that are not required for grass gardening can be profitably |
utilised in the woodland. . | |
To those whose best semblance of the woodland lies in a hedge. |
row consolation may be found in the knowledge that the banks may |
be planted with bulbs with the most charming results, as can be |
seen in many a garden of very modest extent and in scores of
creater pretensions. One of the prettiest May pictures in Barrs’ |
nurseries at Long Ditton is a bank upon the side of which several |
hundreds of bulbs of Muscari comosum, Heavenly Blue, were planted |
a few years ago. Here and there amongst the Muscaris Daffodils |
nod their heads, and, though comparatively limited in numbers, |
they unquestionably play a conspicuous part in the general effect.
Such a picture is within the reach of hundreds of garden owners, |
whose grass clad banks could be cheaply and quickly made twenty- |
fold more attractive than they new are,
BULBS IN GRASS. 39
~Chapiecr VilL—Bulbs in Grass.
Tue charms of bulbous flowers are never better exemplified than
when the blooms are seen rising from the soft green turf and
swaying in the slightest breeze that blows. Their popularisation
for this purpose is largely due to the admirable manner in which
they have been employed in the botanic gardens in various parts of
the country, notably at Kew, where the annual displays rank with
the most beautiful horticultural features of the year ; to the splendid
effects that the superintendents of our public parks and gardens
have made, one of the finest London pictures being in Battersea
Park ; and to the strenuous support that the system has received
from such leading hghts in the world of gardening as Miss Willmott, |
V.M.H., and Mr. Wm. Robinson. ‘These enthusiastic amateurs have
put Daffodils in the turf of their estates in all directions, and the
results are beautiful beyond description in the early months of the
rear.
It is, unfortunately, not possible for every one of us to plant bulbs
in the numbers that we see in the places adverted to in the pre-
ceding paragraph, fur the simple reason that our gardens are not
sufficiently large to allow of it. We may, however, all do a little in
the right direction by utilising the bulbs which have been flowered
in pots, and which are too frequently thrown away, for positions m
the grass where the ragged appearance created by the dying leaves
of the bulbs and the coarse condition of grass consequent upon
neglect of cutting is not deemed too serious an eyesore. Herein
hes the one ‘disadvantage that accrues to the cultivation of bulbs
in grass, for it is imperative that the foliage be left upon the plants
until, having turned quite yellow, it has obviously fulfilled its
functions and may be removed. ‘This process of perfect maturation,
which is so essential to success, involves delay in mowing, hence tlie
undesirability of planting bulbs immediately in sight of windows,
where the untidiness would undoubtedly be intolerable.
Passing a short distance from the parterre, which is always kept
trim and tidy, so as to be in harmony with the external appearance
of the house, there will probably come a bend in the grass with a
background of shruos and trees, and it is from just such spots as
these that the greatest value can be derived in grass gardening, for
the visitor treading the smooth turf will turn quite unexpectedly
upon a picture of golden Daffodils or gorgeous Tulips, whose flowers,
with their soft background, will astonish and delight him beyond
measure. Here the long grass does not irritate by its unkempt
4.0 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
appearance, but is gladly tolerated because it aids substantially in
producing one of the most charming corners of the garden in spring.
It has already been said that the bulbs which have done a season
of excellent service in the greenhouse are of the utmost value for
planting in grass, and, unfortunately, some persons appear to think
that because old bulbs are being utilised it becomes little more than
a waste of valuable time to give care and thought to good and
effective work. This is not, however, the way to set about any
gardening operation, or it is certain that failure in a greater or lesser
degree will be the lot of the gardener. Success demands that each
detail shall have proper attention, and grass gardening affords no
exception to the rule.
The commonest error of all is that which results in the bulbs
being planted in lines, and thus tends to bring the formality of the
flower garden beyond its sphere. Straight lines or regular curves
should be avoided, and the planting must be so done as to give
the best possible idea of natural growth. This is by no means an
easy thing to do, more especially where the amount of space avail-
able for the purpose is at all limited. The most satisfactory results
have been found to follow upon the studied neglect of any suspicion
of a plan, and this is best ensured by standing some little distance
away from the place that is to be planted and, taking a good
handful of bulbs, throwing vigorously so as to make them scatter as
much as possible. Or, as an excellent alternative, stand in the
centre of the area and throw the handful of bulbs high above the
head, giving the wrist a rotatory motion at the moment of ejection.
In both cases the subsequent movements will be the same, and will
consist of putting each bulb into the soil at the spot where it fell.
Some objection may be raised to this practice on the score that
there is a liability of many of the bulbs being lost through its
adoption, but, as a matter of fact, the danger in this direction is
slight, and if one or two do go astray it will not be a serious matter,
as the varieties which are usually requisitioned for the purpose are
not generally the expensive ones, but rather those which can be
bought very cheaply. Again, the shortness of the grass in autumn
when the planting is done favours the ready finding of every bulb
by an operator who exercises a reasonable amount of care in his
work.
In the distribution of the bulbs in the manner indicated, one
has to take into previous consideration the space at command, and
whether it is desired to have masses of one kind or variety, or a
mixture of as many as can be got together. There can scarcely be
two opinions as to which system will produce the more striking
effects, and that 1s separate masses. But this means that a fairly
extensive amount of room must be accorded, as two or three bulbs
of a variety are apt to look somewhat forlorn in their splendid
isolation. Let the determining factor, therefore, be size and nothing
else, having masses or mixtures just as the space will allow. If the
latter is the only feasible plan, then mix Tulips, Crocuses, Snake’s
PLANTING IN GRASS. | 41
Head Lilies and Daffodils in one basket, whence they may be drawn
for distribution in handfuls that are as varied as they can be made
without attempting anything in the way of selection.
The actual planting demands skill, care, and the use of proper
toois. It is first of all necessary to cut out the piece of turf beneath
the waiting bulb, and then to substitute for the soil some sound
loam if it is thought that the natural mould is at all poor. Next the
bulb or bulbs will be placed in position precisely as one would do
were the work being carried out in the flower beds and borders.
After the covering of soil, new or old as the case may be, is put on,
it only remains to replace the piece of turf that was removed before
the work may be said to be completed. The requisites are, then, a
sharp turf cutter, a barrowload of prepared soil, and a cartload of
common sense, which will ensure the results being in all respects
satisfactory to everyone. It is somewhat tedious work certainly,
but it will thoroughly repay for all the time that is spent upon it.
For those who would have a turf cutter and a soil excavator in the
same tool, there is nothing to equal the admirable implement that
has been invented by Barrs for this express purpose, as it is easy to
handle and does its work in a perfect manner.
In the foregoing chapters general hints on bulb culture in various
forms have been given. In the succeeding chapters the principal
bulbous and allied plants will be dealt with in alphabetical order,
selections of varieties and special remarks on cnlture being given
where required.
42 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter WHll.— Acshimenes, Aconifes,
Anomatheca.
Achimenes.—These are in some degree plants of a_ past
decade, for in the days that have gone there were few warm
oreenhouses whence they were absent. The provision of good
fibrous loam in well-drained pots or pans, careful attention in
respect of watering and staking, with a season of absolute rest
after flowering, and a warm, moist atmosphere during the time
of active growth, will be found to practically ensure success.
Achimenes make excellent basket plants. Species and hybrids
are numerous, and afford a fine diversity of colour. A collection
of six or twelve named varieties from a reliable source usually
gives every satisfaction. (See p. 43.)
Aconites. — Who does not know and love the eehenhtul
winter Aconite, known to the wise as Eranthis hyemalis? It
is one of the first flowers of the spring, and its cheerful yellow
blooms in their ruff of bright green leaves are ever welcome.
Tubers should be planted as-early in autumn as possible. It is
useful for borders, grass, or for semi-shaded positions in the
woods. The species Cilicica is much later flowering, and has
deeper hued blooms.
Anomatheca cruenta.— By this name many of us have
grown what the botanist now describes as Lapeyrousia cruenta.
It is a charming but rather tender plant, which must be accorded
frame treatment except in warm climates. A light, sandy loam
is the most suitable soil, and whether in or out of ‘doors perfect
drainage is essential. ‘The colour of the species named is
crimson, grandiflora is scarlet, and juncea is pink. Propagation
is by seeds or offsets.
a a EE
Chapter 1X.—Alliums.
THERE are a large number of species in this genus, many being of
considerable beauty for borders ; while some are of value for culture
in pots. For garden purposes, however, the selection may be limited
with comparative ease to about a dozen kinds. The objection brought
against these plants by the majority of people is that they have a very
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44 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
strong smell of Onions, and for this reason cannot be grown. But
in some, notably in A. Neapolitanum, this is not apparent unless the
flower is handled, and few persons are likely to do that when they know
the consequences. The bulbs are all strongly impregnated with the
Onion odour, but it can be readily removed from the hands upon
the completion of planting with the aid of plenty of water and
soap. Economically the genus is of immense value, as it com-
prises the Onion, Shallot, and Garlie.
Selection of Alliums.
acuminatum, deep rose. narcissiflorum, rose.
ceruleum, sky blue. *Neapolitanum, white.
*Hermettii grandiflorum, Ostrowskianum, rose.
white. roseum, rose.
Karataviense, white. spherocephalum, purple.
Macnabianum, white. triquetrum, white.
Moly, yellow, handsome.
All the species that are included in the foregoing brief list
are perfectly hardy in our gardens, and the same may be said of the
few others that receive occasional notice for the sake of their
distinctness in the border of mixed plants. It should, however,
be remembered that at least two are extremely useful for forcing in
pots, and these are indicated by an asterisk.
Chapter X.—Alstromerias.
“An!” someone may say, “It is all very well to recommend
Alstréomerias, but they will not grow in my garden.” Well, let us ask,
“Ts that the fault of the garden, the grower, or the Alstromerias ?”
The Chilian Herb Lilies are certainly not a success on heavy, cold
soils, or in water-logged gardens, but in a fairly warm position
and well drained soil they can be induced to thrive amazingly
without any other trouble than the mere planting, a good dose of
water in dry summers, (liquid manure if it can be spared), and a
little dry litter spread over the roots in the winter. Surely this
is not too much to ask for one of the choicest of border plants.
The finest clump we have seen was in the master’s tiny garden
behind a Surrey village school.
The quaint little sausage-shaped tubers, so quaintly strung
together, need to be planted from 6 inches to 9 inches deep, in the
autumn. If the staple soil is not suitable, it must be made so
by the addition of leaf mould and sand, for it is well worth while
ee eee eee ee
GOOD ALSTROMERIAS. 45
to take the trouble. One may go so far as to excavate a bed on
border to the depth of 2 feet, putting 3 or 4 inches of crocks and
broken bricks in the bottom, overlaying this with turf or rough soil,
and filling up the rest of the space with a light, rich compost of
loam, leaf soil, and old hot bed manure, with some coarse sand. But
it is not often necessary to go this length, as Alstromerias do quite
well in a properly prepared flower border. They are likely to suffer
more from damp in winter than from frost.
Selection of Alstromerias.
aurantiaca, orange, spotted
red,
aurea, golden yellow.
Chilensis, yellow, crimson
and purple.
Errembaultii, rose and
white, spotted crimson
and yellow.
Pelegrina, white and pale
purple, shaded yellow
and spotted purple.
Peruviana, purple and yel-
low; of this there are
several varieties.
psittacina, crimson, tipped
ereen and spotted purple.
violacea, violet.
We do not recommend Alstrémerias for pot culture, except in the
ease of Pelegrina and its variety alba, which require greenhouse
protection.
Chapter Xi.—Amarovllises.
For the purposes of this chat Amaryllises will only be regarded as
consisting of those superbly gorgeous bulbous plants that have been
brought into existence by the art of the florist, and are known, as
a class, by the titles of Amaryllis and Hippeastrum. Bulbs of named
varieties are somewhat expensive, but it 1s best to start with a few of
these if the grower intends to be the raiser of meritorious seedlings.
Fine results are to be obtained from the produce of purchased seeds,
but about three years will elapse ere seedlings reach a flowering size.
Given the necessary patience and ability, it is not difficult to work up
a choice collection in the course of a few years, provided rigid
ae is practised as each flowering season comes round. (See
p. 47.) -
Sow the seeds, as soon as they are thoroughly ripe, in well-drained
pots or pans, in a light mixture of loam, leaf mould, and sand. In
a temperature of from 60° to 70° germination is rapid, and it will
not be long before the seedlings need more room. When they
have made three or four tiny leaves, put them singly into 3-inch
pots, in a similar compost, but of rougher texture. After they
4.6 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
become established in these pots a temperature of from 50° to 602
will suffice. In their earher stages of growth Amaryllis seedlings
do not require the winter rest that is so essential a part of the
culture of old bulbs. During the winter, however, less warmth
and moisture are needed. Further potting must follow as the
demands of the plants dictate.
Now turn to bulbs of a flowering size and age. Early in the
new year they should be shaken out of the exhausted soil, and
potted in a compost of 2 parts loam, 1 part decayed cow manure, and
a good sprinkling of sand. Where there are facilities for so doing,
it is a capital plan to stack the turves of loam, with layers of fresh
cow manure between, six months before the soil is needed ; this
advice apphes with equal force to many other subjects that like rich
feeding. Crock the pots well, and pot the bulbs firmly. Do not
fall into the frequent error of overpotting. Bulbs we may expect to
flower for the first time will generally find accommodation in 5-inch
pots, and those a size larger may be placed in pots with a diameter
of Ginches. The largest bulbs should be reserved for 8-inch pots, and
it will be in very rare cases that a 9-inch pot will be required. This,
of course, has reference only to single bulbs ; it is quite open to
anyone to put several bulbs in a pot of a larger size, but this form of
culture has little to commend it.
At the conclusion of potting, each bulb should stand with its neck,
and the whole of its upper surface, above the soil. Plunge the pots
to the rim in spent tan or cocoanut. fibre refuse where there is a
slight bottom heat, but the temperature of the house or pit should
be an intermediate one, the object being to secure good root action
before the spikes appear. No water must be given until spikes or
leaves have made some slight progress, hence it is necessary that the
soil be moderately moist at potting time. The hurry to give water
at a time when there are neither roots nor leaves to use it has proved
~a stumbling-block in many cases.
The large, handsome, broadly trumpet shaped flowers will expand
about March or April, but it is easy to delay the flowering, by cooler
conditions, if such be deemed desirable. Plenty of fresh air, but
no draughts, should be an accompaniment of the season of flowers,
as the plants will then suffer no harm if placed in the conservatory
for a week or so. After flowering there must be a return to the old
quarters, and the provision of a higher temperature with additional
moisture ; frequent syringings are advisable to secure free growth,
and to keep down insect pests. As soon as leaf growth is complete
reduce the water supply, and cease to syringe. Continue the
reduction gradually until the leaves are yellow, when watering must
cease entirely for the season, and abundance of air and full sunshine
n.ust be permitted to play upon the plants to ripen and solidify the
bulbs. Remove the stock from the plunge bed, and winter it in a
temperature of from 45° to 50°.
It is only justice to state that the principal raisers of Amaryllises
in this country are Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea, and
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47
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48 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
R. P. Ker and Sons, of Aigburth, Liverpool. They have both beaten
our Continental neighbours on many occasions.
Selection of Amaryllises.
” Acidale, light scarlet,
Autocrat, scarlet, striped
white.
Beethoven, orange, veined
white.
Chancellor, red, striped
white.
Duke of Albany, deep
scarlet. :
George Nicholson, blood
red, feathered white.
Her Majesty, white, shaded
Juno, scarlet and white.
Meteor, white, striped
crimson,
Olympia, crimson scarlet,
shaded orange.
Prince of Orange, orange,
shaded white.
Queen Victoria, white,
striped crimson,
Robur, rich carmine.
Star of India, carmine,
white stripes,
scarlet,
Chapter XHI.— Anemones.
THERE are few hardy tuberous-rooted plants grown in gardens that
are more popular than the brilliantly beautitul Anemones, whose
flowers are with us from the earliest days of spring until the frosts
of winter come to rob us of their charms. Commensurate with the
length of the flowering season are the range of colouration, the varied
forms and sizes of blooms, and the great differences in the stature and
habit of the several kinds. They range from the lowly A. ranunculoides
to the 3 feet high A. Japonica, or, if we wish, to the stately species
A. Fanninii, which requires greenhouse culture.
Not only are Anemones of the utmost value for garden decoration,
but they are also excellent for cutting purposes. The blooms do not 1
last as long as those of many other plants, it is true, but if secured ~
before full expansion their life is of sufficiently long duration to |
bring a great amount of pleasure. The time of gathering has an effect
not only upon the longevity of the flower, but also on its suitability
for vases, as with age the stems, naturally somewhat weak for the
burden they have to carry, lose rigidity, and fail to hold up the flower
so that its full beauty can be appreciated.
As far as garden purposes are concerned, species of Anemones
are not particularly numerous, but the varieties are apparently
innumerable ; fortunately for those who abhor labels in the herbaceous
border and garden the mania for naming every little variation does
not appear to have invaded the Anemone family to quite the same
————————
| GOOD ANEMONES. : 49
degree that it has many other genera, and we can have, if we wish, ©
at least a hundred different varieties under no more than two or three
names. Except in a few instances no attempt is here made to
include varietal names, but where it appeared to enhance the utility
of the selection, the case of A. Japonica to wit, it has been done. A.
Hepatica and its varieties have been for years grown as Hepaticas,
and, despite the change made by the botanists, by this appellation
_ they are still known, grown, and loved in the vast majority of
_ gardens; they will, therefore, be treated of under Hepatica.
Selection of Anemones.
Aldeburgh, resembling A.
fulgens, but larger and
rounder, colours varied.
Alpina, white.
Apennina, b‘ue ; rose and
white varieties.
blanda, blue or white;
Scythinica and Taurica
are fine varieties.
coronaria, almost all
colours; there are differ-
ent strains of this species,
of which the St. Brigid
and the Alderborough
St: Brigid are the best.
fulgens, glowing scarlet;
the double forms, as
well as the varieties mul-
tipetala and Greca, are
worth growing.
Hortensis, colours various ;
the variety named stel-
lata flore pleno is in-
teresting and beautiful.
Japonica, red; there are
several named varieties
of exceptional merit,
including alba, hybrida,
Lady Ardilaun, Lord
Ardilaun, Whirlwind,
Coupe d’ Argent, and
Beauté Parfaite.
narcissiflora, white.
nemorosa, white; several
varieties, of | which
Allenii, cerulea, flore
pleno, purpurea, Robin-
soniana, rosea, and the
quaint bracteata are the
best.
polyanthes, white.
Pulsatilla (the Pasque
Flower), blue.
ranunculoides, yellow ;
very dwarf.
rivularis, white.
sylvestris, white ; the dou-
ble form is charming.
As everyone knows, we get scores of thousands of Anemone flowers
from the south of France each season ; the varieties principally sent
are Chapeau du Cardinal and Rose de Nice, both of which are well
_ worth growing at home expressly for cutting purposes.
| For depth of planting Crown Anemones, see Fig. 1, pp. 8 and 9.
These flowers are easily raised from seed sown in spring.
50 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter Xiil.—Arum Lilies.
PopuLARLY known by many quite permissible names, such as
Lily of the Nile and Calla or Richardia Aethiopica, Richardia
Africana is a universal favourite. Its superb white flowers are
regarded as indispensable in many forms of floral decorations.
It is hardier than people appear to imagine, succeeding out of
doors in all except the coldest districts if planted in water. It
is, however, as a greenhouse plant that the Arum Lily shines.
Provide a sound loam, give pure water and liquid manure generously
when the plants are approaching the flowering stage, plant them
out in well manured ground in summer, watering freely in hot,
dry weather, and no difficulty should be experienced in getting
an abundance of blooms over a period varying with the conveniences
for hastening or retarding the plants. The variety Little Gem
is not usually regarded as quite so free flowering as the type,
but it 1s very beautiful, and no effort should be spared to induce
it to succeed. The yellows, Elliottiana and Pentlandi, are also
popular. Propagation may be readily effected by division either
before or after planting, giving preference to the latter. The pot
plants which are planted out in summer should be lifted in early
autumn. The true Arums are much more curious than beautiful ;
they grow well in any good soil, and prefer an open, sunny
position, where some protection can be afforded in winter in cold
ae Italicum, Dracunculus, and Palestinum are three of
' the best.
Chapter XIV.—Babianas.
THE old saying “ Good things are usually done up in small parcels ”
is eminently applicable to the beautiful little Babianas, for these
fairy-like flowers are frequently passed over for others that have little
else except size to recommend them. Seldom exceeding 9 inches in
height, even under the most favourable conditions, Babianas must
be regarded as jewels requiring a careful setting. Nature has herself
been kind to these gems among Cape bulbs, and has provided them
with plaited, hairy, deep green leaves, against which the bright hued
flowers show up well.
In the northern parts of the kingdom Babianas are usually wasted
if planted out of doors, but in the “sunny south” the garden may be
a
SOME GOOD-BABIANAS. 51
made the brighter by their presence during the months of June and
July. Success only comes to those who work for it, and the work in
this particular instance means the preparation of a bed of light soil,
well drained, and raised 6 inches above the surrounding level. Sandy
loam, with plenty of leaf soil, and -seme old decomposed stable
manure will suit admirably, but in many gardens the addition of leaf
soil and sand is all that will be necessary. Choose a sunny position ;
plant the bulbs—corms to be strictly correct—3 inches deep, and
protect them with a covering of Bracken or litter until March.
Where climatic influences preclude outdoor culture recourse must
be had to pots. Put five bulbs in each 4-inch pot, plunge the pots in
cocoanut fibre refuse in a cold frame, and when growth commences
put the plants on a shelf in the greenhouse. If there is one point that
needs to be emphasised more than another in dealing with the pot
eulture of Babianas, it is the advice to give no water until the leaves
appear.
Selection of Babianas.
stricta, white and blue. ringens, scarlet.
Of this there are Mixed Babianas are so
several pretty varie- cheap that where it
ties, notably atro- is not essential that
cyanea, dark blue; colours be kept separ-
rubro-cyanea, blue ~ ate these will give
and crimson; and equal satisfaction.
sulphurea, pale yel-
low.
Chapter XV.—Beqonias.
HorticuLtTugE hath her triumphs as great as any that adorn the
banners of other arts and sciences. Her progress is quiet, but none
the less sure. Weare led to make this reflection by the present subject.
The history of the Tuberous Begonia is a fascinating one. Started on
its way by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, the race was taken in hand
by that famous old florist the late Mr. John Laing, who brought
it into popularity, and showed to the world what wonderful capacity a
flower has for improvement in the hands of a patient individual who
has a strong and scientifically founded belief in its possibilities.
Other firms and individuals have entered enthusiastically into the
work of improvement. One has but to visit the Temple Show a
couple of years in succession to find that such names as Cannell,
Ware, Blackmore and Langdon, Davis, Jones, and many others are
all associated in horticultural circles with Begonias of the highest
quality.
Double Begonias have a clever way of imitating other flowers
closely, yet without losing their identity; they personate Roses,
Peonies, and Hollyhocks in a wonderful manner, but latterly they have
52 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
copied the fashion of our lady friends and gone in strongly for frills
and laces; in other words, we have the heavily crested Begonia.
Further, mated with some of the wiuter-flowering species the
Tuberous Begonia has been the means of providing us with a race
of plants that brought brightness and beauty into the winter of
our discontent. Messrs. Veitch and Sons and M. Lemoine bear off
the honours for this new race.
The advice given for raising Gloxinias from seed (p. 114) applies
with equal force here, but after the seedling stage is passed the
Begonias require an intermediate rather than a stove temperature,
and in due course they will find a happy home in the greenhouse,
en route for the conservatory, or reach the flower garden wd a cold
frame. Begonias are liable to damp off while still in the seed pan ;
the remedy is air and not too much moisture, coupled with the
transference of the tiny plantlets to other pans at the earliest
moment possible. Delay of a few hours only may mean all the
difference between success and failure, for the dreaded “ damp”
will clear off a pan of seedlings in a night.
February, or early March, is a good time to start old tubers into
growth, and there is no better plan than just covering them with
leaf soil or cocoanut fibre refuse in a warm greenhouse or on a
hotbed under a frame. With the production of roots and the
commencement of stem growth potting must proceed apace. Select
the tubers for pot culture, and provide them with a substantial
compost of loam, leaf soil, dried cow manure, and sand ; Begonias
love good living. From now right on to the conservatory or the
exhibition tent should be a steady march of progress. As the
weather grows warmer air should be more freely given, and if there
is a deep, unheated pit at disposal, it is the right place for the plants
during the early summer. Thinning and tying out the growths
are details upon which time is well spent, and liquid feeding is an
item that must on no account be overlooked. Liquid cow manure,
the colour of pale ale, is the best and safest food for Begonias, but
ae water given occasionally adds colour and vigour to leaf and
ranch.
‘ For summer bedding the started tubers give the best results for
a minimum of troubleif planted in a warm pit, in a bed of moderately ~
rich soil. Sturdy plants are now the aim rather than large
ones, and this method enables the grower to inure his stock to
outdoor conditions in the easiest and best manner possible, so as to
be ready for planting out in early June.
Winter flowering varieties are chiefly the children of a species
named Socotrana. Those having a Tuberous Begonia as one parent
are propagated annually from cuttings of young growth produced
by plants that have been rested and then started in brisk heat.
Such cuttings are put singly into small pots filled with sandy soil
and placed ina close propagating frame. What may be called “cool”
stove treatment is well suited to their needs until about midsummer,
but thence on to September less fire heat and more air will give the
53
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54, PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
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FIG, 15.—BEGONIA MABEL KEEVIL. |
(See page 56.)
| A LOVELY BEGONTA.
| FIG. 16.—BEGONIA MRS. JOSEPH CHAMBERLAIN.
(See page 56.)
56 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
better results. Good loam, with some sand and a little dried cow
manure, is an excellent mixture to pot this section in, but it is
necessary to add a word of caution against the use of large pots;
those of 6 inches diameter are big enough for the largest plant.
That other group of hybrids having Gloire de Lorraine as its
type requires warmth all the year round. The rootstock of these
latter is not a tuber, but rather a compact cluster of thickened buds
that remain dormant for a short period. Very little water must be
given them at this time, but to dry them off as in the case of a
‘Tuberous Begonia ora Gloxinia would be to kill them ; neither ought
the temperature in which they rest to be lower than that in which
they grew. Liberal feeding, an occasional dewing overhead, fumiga-
tion by the vaporising process, staking and tying, all play their part.
Selection of Begonias.
Double Varieties,
Aurora, yellow.
Baron Schroder, orange
scarlet.
Beauty of Belgrove, rose
pink.
B. R. Davis, crimson,
Duchess of Fife, white.
Felix Crousse, orange
scarlet.
Henshaw Russell, orange.
La France, rose.
Mabel Keevil, white (sec
9204.)
Mrs. Joseph Chamberlain,
blush (see p. 55).
Mrs. Tweedie, white.
Mrs. Lynch, salmon.
Octavie, white.
Rey. E. Lascelles, yellow.
Rose Laing, rose pink.
Sir J. Pender, salmcn,
Single Varieties.
Beacon, crimson.
Delight, pink.
Duchess of Westminster,
salmon.
Firefly, crimson scarlet.
Gloriosum, yellow.
Heroof Omdurman,orange
scarlet,
King of the
crimson.
Lady Grosvenor, salmon.
Miss Cannell, rose pink.
Prince-of Orange, orange
scarlet.
Queen of Roses, rose.
Queen of Yellows, yellow.
Snowdrift, white.
Snowstorm, white,
Begonias,
Winter Flowering Varieties.
Adonis, carmine,
Caledonia, white.
Ensign, red,
Gloire de Lorraine, rose.
Gloire de Sceaux, pink,
dark leaves,
John Heal, rosy carmine.
Socotrana, rose.
Turnford Hall, white.
Winter Cheer, scarlet.
Winter Gem, deep carmine.
Bedding Varieties.
Argus, glowing scarlet.
Hollyhock, rich pink.
Lafayette, crimson scarlet.
Little Pet ; this is rather a
classname than a varietal
one, as it includes almost
the whole range of use-
ful bedding colours, the
several forms being
known respectively as
White Pet, Scarlet Pet,
Yellow Pet, ete.
Louise Robert,rose,doub!e.
Meteor, orange, bronze
leaves,
Mons. L, Urban, crimson,
double.
phosphorescens, _ scarlet,
semi-double,
Semperfiorens Princess
Beatrice, rose pink.
Semperflorens Vernon,
pink, metallic bronze
leafage.
Vesuvius, bright scarlet.
Worthiana, orange scariet.
BELLADONNA LILIES. 57
Modern florists’ varieties are now offered in distinct shades
of colour, especially selected for bedding purposes ; these are supplied
as tubers or as seed, at the will of the customer. They are selected
for their compact habit and erect flower stems, and they are
extremely useful in the flower garden in wet summers, as they
delight in cool, moist conditions that are fatal to a fine show of
Zonal Geraniums.
Chapter XVI.—Belladonna Lilies.
Ir is gravely urged by those who either do not attempt its
cultivation or have failed with it, that the beautiful Belladonna
Lily has one serious failing, inasmuch as it does not produce its
flowers and leaves simultaneously. If, for the sake of argument,
we admit this is a failing, then the opposition must grant that,
after all, it is only a small one. But the true plant lover will
never allow his enthusiasm to be damped by such a criticism. A
native of the Cape of Good Hope, Amaryllis Belladonna is not
perfectiy hardy in ‘the sense that the Daffodils are hardy.
Throughout the southern counties and in most of the sheltered
districts of the kingdom it may, however, be successfully grown
out of doors provided a few points are carefully followed. A
narrow border, such as is frequently to be found on the south side
of the dwelling or plant house, will be an ideal site if it is open
to the sun and sheltered from strong winds.
Should the soil be poor, as it often is in a position of this
kind, then it must receive the addition of decayed cow manure,
while if heavy it must be lghtened with leaf mould and coarse
sand. In either case deep digging is essential a short time
previous to planting the bulbs. The best time to plant is early
_ autumn, just after the flowers have faded. Six inches is a suitable
depth, and a similar distance should separate the bulbs. Winter
protection must be provided, and it may consist either of strawy
litter, partially decayed leaves, or dry Bracken, but it must be.
_ removed as soon as the new foliage pushes forth in the spring.
_ Planted in a border of the kind indicated, the Belladonna Lily is
too often allowed to suffer from lack of moisture while in full
_ growth, and the natural sequence is a poor crop of flowers at the
end of the summer. Liquid manure applied in late spring and
_ early summer will materially assist established bulbs.
The Belladonna Lily has bright rose coloured flowers ; blanda
and pallida are pale varieties, and Kewensis and major are larger
and more richly coloured forms.
58 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapier XWII.—Caladiums.
Amonast all stove tuberous rooted plants that are cultivated for
the beauty of their leafage the Caladiums are the most popular,
and were it not for the fact that strong, moist heat is essential
they would be found in all small as well as large gardens. The
leaves vary in size from a diameter of 3 inches in the charming
argyrites to 15 or 18 inches in candidum and others, while there
is an intermediate size of which minus erubescens may be cited
as an example. For the early summer months these plants are
invaluable for the odd and characteristic air that no-others would
impart.
The propagation is readily effected in spring by division of
the tubers as shown in the diagram, Fig. 17, p. 59, and the plants
should have a rich compost comprising 2 parts of fibrous loam,
1 part of each fibrous peat, decomposed leaf mould, and dried and
pounded cow manure, with sufficient coarse sand to insure perfect
porosity. The pots should always stand upon a moist base, and
at the same time atmospheric moisture with a temperature of 80° by
day will be necessary so as to encourage the leaves to push up on
long, strong foot stalks. Repotting must always be done early in
the year, and, except where large specimens for the purpose of
-exhibition are required, 6-inch or 8-inch pots will meet all
requirements.
As soon as the foliage begins to show signs of decay, which
will be scon after midsummer, unless special treatment has been
accorded, water should be gradually withheld with a view to
ripening off the tops and maturing the tubers, which call for a
decided rest every season if they are to continue in good health.
Selection of Caladiums.
argyrites (correctly Hum-
boldtil), green and white
Amarante, red, violet, and
rose,
Auguste Charpentier, car-
mine, red, gold, and
green.
Baron Adolphe de Roth-
schild, red, carmine, and
green,
Chariotte Hoffmann, white
candidum, white.
Clio, rose, white, and green
John Peed, red and green.
minus erubescens, crimson
and green. ;
Oriflamme, red and green.
Rose Laing, white and
crimson.
Silver Cloud, white, green,
and carmine,
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60 | PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter XVIIL—Calochorti.
ComMoNLY known as Mariposa Lilies, these are amongst the
most exquisitely beautiful of all the bulbous plants; some of
»
Photo: Casaeht and Co., Lid.
FIG. 18.—CALOCHORTUS SPLENDENS.
(See page 61.)
them only develop to perfection when afforded frame treatment,
but many do equally well in the border or the bed. The species
| HOW TO GROW CANNAS. 61
_are fairly numerous, but several are rarely seen in general cultivation.
There is a strain of OC. venustus, known as the Eldorado, that
comprises many different colours, and in some the basal markings
on the inner side of the sesments are peculiarly refined. This, it
may be said, is a characteristic of the ma‘ ‘ority of the species of
| this genus.
Selection of Calochorti.
albus, white.
amenus, rich pink,
‘ceruleus, pale blue ; several
varieties,
lilacinus, pale purple.
luteus, yellow ; the
varieties citrinus and
concolor are good.
Gunnisonii, white, yellow
centre,
Howellii, white.
pulchellus, yellow.
Purdyi, white.
splendens, lilac (see p. 60).
venustus, white ; fine cone
stitution.
i clavatus, yellow.
| Chapter XIX.—Canmas.
“Taover there is no question that the beautiful Canna is rapidly
attaining a place in public favour consistent with its merits, yet
the plant is even now not appreciated in the same degree as many
others which it is well qualified to displace. The ease with which
it may be grown, the extreme brightness and beauty of its blossoms,
_and its stately and aristocratic appearance generally are all points
which should tell strongly in its favour.
Possibly the size to which it attains is a drawback to its employ-
ment in very small gardens, but these same gardens often accom-
modate a Dahlia, Sunflower, or even Hollyhock, which takes every
bit as much room as would a Canna, and which, moreover, has
no greater claims to distinction. As a back row plant in a wide
| border, a subject to break up the monotony of a flat one, a centre
for a bed of dwarfer plants, or even as a filler of large beds by
itself, the Canna has very few equals, and, all things considered,
no superiors. Too tall, perhaps, for a window box, on a verandah
or balcony it is supreme, and even makes a noble ornament in a
vase or tub. A dwarf race with beautiful flowers now exists.
_ Then, for conservatory, greenhouse, or dwelling-house decoration
what could be finer than a well-grown Canna or a group of its
-well-flowered specimens ? For halls and corridors it forms a
“splendid successor to the Arum Lily while that useful plant is
|
)
ee —
resting, beautifies large fireplaces in a manner far beyond com-
62 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
parison from ordinary screens, and as an inmate of the fashionable
large china or brass vases fills a corner in the drawing-room in a
manner all its own.
For gorgeousness of blossom the Canna can give points to
most of its congeners, the Orchid-flowered section yielding some
of the most brilliant flowers known. Visitors to the fruit shows at
the Crystal Palace will well recall how all others of Flora’s
progeny present paled their ineffectual fires before the all-conquering
Canna, and at the Jaree Chrysanthemum exhibitions its triumph
over the “Mum is only in less degree because of the vast dis-
proportion of the respective flowers in number
At one time Canna culture was thought to hold great secrets,
but all of these—if, indeed, there were any—have now been revealed,
and the generally accepted conclusion to-day is that the man who
can grow good Dahlias will be equally successful with Cannas.
In fact, in their propagation and general treatment the two can’
be very conveniently bracketed together, with the single exception,
perhaps, that the Canna outshines its confrére as a pot plant. Both
inay be stored in a frostproof place during winter—giving the
Canna first choice in the matter of warmth—and both can be
propagated by seeds or division in spring. Nay,-still further can
the parallel be carried. for even as the Dahlia is started in heat,
and its resultant shoots detached and struck—as cuttings, so in
like manner can the finest Cannas be grown, provided that a
piece of the old rootstock accompanies each separated growth.
Many Cannas are worth growing for their foliage alone, which
is often a beautiful bronze colour, and in some instances variegated,
These, however, and indeed all the tall forms, such as those
comprised in the Orchid-flowered section, should have a sheltered
position afforded them, as reugh winds soon spoil the beauty of
their leaves. The Gladiolus-flowered sorts are dwarfer and stand
breezes better ; they are also more suitable for pot culture.
The beginning of June is quite early enough to bed Cannas
out, and they are much benefited by a mulching of long manure
and copious drenchings of water during hot, dry weather.
Seeds of a good strain yield handsome plants, with flowers of
good size and colour, but anyone wishing to obtain the very best
results would do well to plant named varieties, of which a selection
is given herewith.
Selection of Cannas.
America, scarlet and Italia, orange scarlet,
orange. yellow margin.
Aurore, red. Konigin Charlotte, red,
Austria, canary, dotted edged gold. 7
brown (see p. 63). Menelik, reddish crimson,
Capri, salmon scarlet. Madame Crozy, vermilion,
Jyuchess of York, yellow, edged gold.
spotted red. Pandora, red and gold.
KHdouard André, red, Plato, red, flamed orange.
spotted yellow.
|
}
ae
A BEAUTIFUL CANNA.
FIG. 19.—CANNA AUSTRIA.
(See page 62.)
64 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. q
Chapter XX.—Chionodoxas.
THE popular name of these most delightful bulbous plants is
expressive of the period of the year at which they flower—Glory ©
of the Snow. Beautiful, indeed, are the Chionodoxas, and one cannot ©
simulate surprise at their ever- growing popularity. They are most
FIG. 20.—COLCHICUM AUTUMNALE,
(See page 65.)
frequently seen in association with the chaste single Snowdrop, and
in positions that are wholly congenial to both kinds produce a
charming picture. The species and varieties are not numerous, and
those who cultivate them all will find no cause for regret. They are
propagated both by seeds and offsets.
Allenii, violet, very free. Cretica, blue and white:
grandiflora, violet, large nana, white, striped lilac,
and fine, dwarf, rare.
Luciliz, blue and white. Sardensis, b!ue and white.
Lucilie alba, white, yery Tmolusii, purple, blue,
choice. and white, late,
| SOME GOOD COLCHICUMS. 65
Chapter XXI.—Colchicums.
THE popular name of “Autumn Crocuses” arose from the close
resemblance of these flowers to the well-known Crocuses of spring,
and has the merit of being accurately descriptive, if nothing more.
They préduce much larger blooms than Crocuses, and differ from
these again in sending up their flowers in autumn and the bold
leafage in spring.
‘Selection of Colchicums.
autumnale, purple. Nu- Byzantinum, purple rose,
merous varieties, includ- Sibthorpui, white, spotted
ing double white, purple, purple.
rose and striped (see p.64) speciosum, purplish rose.
Bornmiilleri, purple and variegatum, white, spotted
white. liiac.
| Chapter XXii.—cCrinums.
Foremost though they be among the many fine members of the
great Amaryllis family, it is an unpleasant fact that Crinums are
not the plants for everybody. Beautiful in flower, stately in habit,
and handsome in foliage, it is little wonder the owner of small
glass structures and a garden whose soil is heavy and cold sadly
shakes his head as he passes some splendid specimen in the
more favoured garden of a neighbour.
For garden purposes Crinums can be divided into three sections,
i.e. those requiring a stove temperature, those which succeed in a
greenhouse, and the few that thrive in the open, and are, in fact,
hardy in sheltered places. The two former are grown in large pots
or tubs, in a compost of sound loam and peat, two parts of the
former to one of the latter, with the addition of sufficient sharp
‘sand to keep the whole porous. Crinums love plenty of water
when growing and flowering, but with rare exceptions they abhor
stagnant moisture. As the bulbs are large, the pots for their
accommodation must of necessity be large too, and they must be
effectively drained. Fortunately Crinums do not need re-potting
every year after they reach a flowering size, but it is a good plan
E
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66 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
to scrape off the top soil and give an annual _top-dressing
of fresh, rich soil; liquid manure is valuable to well established
plants. In other respects the different requirements of the two
sections are only questions of heat and moisture. A free use of
the syringe throughout the summer, and frequent sponging of the
foliage to ensure cleanliness, are two important items in Crinum
culture.
Coming to those that have proved hardy in many parts of the
kingdom, it is worth while remembering that biting winds and
frost following wet weather are the chief causes of trouble, for
while the bulbs are hardy enough the large leaves are not infre-
quently damaged, and the plant is thereby weakened to the
extent of materially reducing the crop of bloom. For this division
a sunny border, sheltered from strong wines, is desirable as a
position ; and the soil should be deep and rich, without containing
any fresh manure; it must also be retentive of moisture, but not
in any sense approaching stagnation. If the selected spot is in
front of a stove or greenhouse, the chances of success are much
improved. Plant the bulbs not less than 8 inches deep.
Selection of Crinums.
emabile, rose purple; Karki, white, striped red ;
stove. stove.
Americanum, white, frag- longifollum (Capense),
rant; greenhouse or pink; hardy. There is
hardy. also a white form.
augustum, red; stove. ‘Moorei, rose; greenhouse
campanulatum, red or hardy.
purple; greenhouse. Powellii, rose; hardy, or
erubescens, white and greenhouse in cold _ lo-
purple; stove. calities. There are fine
giganteum, ivory white, white and red varieties
very sweet scented ; of this handsome hybrid.
stove.
Chapter XXUll.—Crocuses.
THERE are among gardeners many who study and delight in
bird life, doing all in their power to preserve our feathered friends.
There is, however, one bird against which we all wage incessant
warfare, especially in the spring, when the yellow Crocuses are in
flower. The ubiquitous sparrow is the gardener’s most inveterate
| 5
enemy, for of good in the garden he does little or none, while
of irreparable damage he annually does much. Sparrows strip our
yellow Crocuses of their petals.
Notwithstanding the possibility of much of the beauty being
destroyed by these marauders, it is indefensible to omit Crocuses”
BEAUTIFUL SPECIES OF CROCUS. 67
from the garden. In beds, in borders, or in grass they are_
| invaluable, and the grower must take such steps as he considers
wise to prevent or mitigate the possible damage.
Selection of Dutch Crocuses.
Albion, striped. Mont Blanc, pure white.
* Avalanche, pure white. Prince Albert, dark blue.
Celestial, blue. purpurea grandiflora, rich
Gladiator, dark blue. purple.
John Bright, intense blue. *Sir Walter Scott, lilac
*Golden Yellow, superb. striped.
*King of the Blues, rich Vulcan, very deep purple,
purple blue. White Pearl, pure white.
La Majestueuse, lilac
striped.
Four of the best are marked by an asterisk,
| The varieties embodied in the above list may, if needed,
_be grown in pots, though where the most striking effects are
required they may be advantageously planted in beds, for which
purpose, however, those described as Large Yellow, Large Blue,
Large White, Large Striped, and Cloth of Gold are generally
employed with satisfactory results. The corms of these can be
purchased so remarkably cheaply that they may be planted in
thousands.
3 Species of Crocuses.
As in the case of Tulips, so in Crocuses; the species have a
refined style of beauty, which the Dutch varieties can never give,
/ and are in every way worthy of a hundredtold more attention
than is at present accorded to them. Apart from this, by making
a judicious choice, flowers may be had in abundance in August,
when the Dutch sorts have long since: gone to rest. It will be
observed that the flowers of many species are smaller than the
Dutch varieties, and the corms may, therefore, be planted rather
_ closer. )
Selections of Species.
Spring flowering. Autumn flowering.
aureus, orange yellow. Clusii, purple.
Balanse, orange, feathered Hadriaticus, white.
mahogany. longiflorus, lilac purple.
biflorus, white. nudiflorus, purple.
chrysanthus, orange. pulchellus, blue.
‘ Danfordiz, pale yellow: sativus, purple.
Fleicheri, white, feathered Scharojanil, richest golden
purple. yellow.
Garganicus, yellow. speciosus, lilac purple.
Imperati, exterior buff. Tournefortii, lilac, feath-
Sieberi, lilac. ered purple. .
Tommasinianus, lavender.
vernus, white to purple. — -
versicoler, purple striped.
Crown Imverials.—See FRITILLARIA.
68 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter XXiV.—Cyclamens.
THESE are undoubtedly amongst the most interesting plants
that we can grow in our gardens. ‘The hardy species have not
the size of those which are so largely cultivated in pots in every
greenhouse, but in their marked refinement, the charming leafage,
the quaint elegance of the flowers, and in their fragrance, they
possess recommendations entitling them to all the attention it is
possible to accord. ‘The old-fashioned Cyclamen Persicum was
decidedly perfumed, and while some of the modern varieties have
this attribute, it is in a much less pronounced form, having been
worked out in the process of evolution. This is regrettable, as
fragrance in any flower must enhance its interest and charm.
The hardy species and varieties form delightful colonies in the
rock garden, and those especially which bloom very early in the
year are practically indispensable, as their places cannot be filled
by any other kind of plants that will flourish in our gardens.
They may be used in association with various plants, but much
care is necessary in this direction, as the foliage of the Cyclamens
alone is an ornament and must on no account be smothered by
coarser growing subjects.
Selections of Cyclamens.
For all practical purposes the greenhouse section is confined
_to C. Persicum in considerable variety, including the normal as
well as the large-flowered form, usually designated grandifiorum
because it has bolder blooms. In the former division we have
plenty of range as regards colour and superbly marbled leafage,
while in the latter we have glorious flowers, but less conspicuously
beautiful foliage. Almost all our leading houses offer named
sorts, and no particularly useful purpose would be served by
their enumeration here. Excellent results may be secured by
purchasing mixed seeds* (keeping the two divisions separate, of
course), as these are generally saved from the finest colours.
Hardy Cyclamens.
Atkins, purple and white. Neapolitanum, red and
Coum, purple. white. .
Europeum, reddish purple. hederifolium, purple.
Ibericum, red. repandum, crimson,
vernum, dark red,
* A valuable practical illustration dealing with Cyclamen propagation will
be found on page 144 of ‘‘ Pictorial Practical Gardening.”’
HOW TO DIVIDE DAFFODILS. 69
Chapter XXV.—Dalfodils.
Classification and Selection.
THe month of April is the month of Daffodils as far as outdoor
gardening is concerned, and much difficulty would be experienced in
FIG. 21—HOW TO DIVIDE DAFFODILS.
A, parent bulb of Sir Watkin.
B, offsets two years from planting.
C, parent and offsets divided and planted.
finding any garden worthy the name in which the golden flower
is not represented.
‘
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
~~]
fewest
Apart from considerations of garden adornment, Daffodils have
a value for decorative purposes indoors, where, if given fresh water
each day, they last fora week, or even more, in fine condition. Of
course, when they are put into rooms whose atmosphere is laden with
the fumes of gas the blooms are much shorter lived.
Classification is the order of the day amongst all flowers, and
fortunately with Narcissi the dividing lines are so sharply defined
that they are easily understood. Daffodils in this respect differ
substantially from other flowers, in whose divisions the classifiers
themselves have the utmost difficulty in finding the points.
The separation of the Daffodils into sections is governed by easy
natural laws into large, medium, and small trumpet varieties. The
botanist would not express himself in such terms as these, but
would say Magni-Coronati, Medio-Coronati, and Parvi-Coronati,
respectively. Happily, these terms are readily Anglicised, and the
average Board school youth, in the profundity of his Latin knowledge,
would be readily equal to the task. To illustrate the three sections in
the order given, Emperor, Sir Watkin, and poeticus may be mentioned.
The variations in form amongst Daffodils are so great that sub-
sections might be originated; indeed, some attempt has been made
in this direction, but except where the governing factor has been
botanical success has not been great. Were it not for the varied
sizes and shapes, the popularity of the Datfodil would soon start
on the down grade, for the range of colouration is limited. There
are yellows in varying shades, white, and in some of the small and
medium cupped flowers rich orange and red.
It would be comparatively simple to secure from two dozen
judiciously selected varieties practically all the tones of colour,
unless one sought for infinitesimal differences; but were one bound
down in such a way as this, the loss in form and size would be so
- great that, except for the smallest gardens, the collection would be :
incomplete.
Happily, too, for the maintenance of interest in the Narcissus
family, there is a beautiful latitude in price. Im fact, there are
indications that the thirst for unique varieties, as in Orchids
of the present day and the Tulip mania of a century or so back,
is growing, and that the enthusiast is prepared to pay any amount
provided that he can get something which his neighbour does not
possess.
Before making his selections the would-be champion should
examine his bank book and decide to what limits he can go. We
ean find plenty of varieties ranging from 12 to 18 guineas a
bulb; we can go still farther and pay 50 guineas for some highly
extolled novelty, or we can have 1,000 sound flowering bulbs for as
small a sum as one anda half guinea. ‘“ Common !” someone may
say. Yes; but if planted in the grass in the wild garden or the
woodland they will make a lovely display.
One might regard the purchase of 20-guinea bulbs as an
investment, but with men like the Rev. G. H. Engleheart at work it
y
SELECTIONS OF DAFFUDILS. "1
is precarious, as by the time one has raised a stock to give him
eent. per cent. interest. this genius in Daffodil development may
have raised something infinitely superior, and the gold mine turn
out a loss.
Selections of Large Trumpet Varieties.
The factor governing the inclusion of any variety in this section
is that the corona, crown, or trumpet—call it which you will—is as
long as, or longer than, the segments of the perianth. Five sub-
sections are readily instituted, namely, (1) Bulbocodium, which is
very distinct in having a trumpet that completely overshadows the
segments of the perianth ; (2) yellow flowered varieties ; (3) bicolor
varieties ; (4) sulphur and white varieties; and (5) double varieties.
Bulbocodium—Hoop Petticoat.—The type variety of this section
is pure yellow, and there are sulphur, white, and yellow forms,
all ranging in height from 4 to 6 inches, and all particularly
effective for pot culture. The best are the type, citrinus, and
monophylla.
Yellow Trumpets—A very handsome division, comprising
some of the noblest Daffodils of our gardens. 3
abscissus, major.
Alma (see p. 76). maximus,
Ard Righ. minimus,
Captain Nelson. minor.
cyclamineus, M. J. Berkeley.
ec. major. nanus,
Emperor. obvallaris.
Glory of Leyden. Pseudo Narcissus
Golden Spur. (Lent Lily).
Henry Irving. B. . Bare:
Johnstoni Queen of spurius.
Spain. -
Abscissus has sulphur segments and a yellow trumpet, but its
chief value is in its late flowering and its ready adaptability to
culture in grass.
Narcissus cyclamineus and its variety major are amongst the
gems of the family. They are somewhat difficult to establish, but
are worth any trouble. If a semi-shaded situation at the foot of a
rockery can be afforded, and the soil is mainly good loam, with |
some leaf mould and sand, disappointment-is not very likely to -
accrue.
Licolor Varieties.—This division is peculiarly rich in fine
varieties, whose period of flowering is very extended. The trumpet
may be any shade of yellow, and the segments of the perianth
pure white, or as nearly so as possible.
Madame Plemp.
Mrs. Walter Ware.
Mrs. Morland Cros-
- Cygnet (see p. 77).
Dean Herbert.
Empress,
Grandee (late), field.
Horsefieldii (early). princeps.
J. B. M. Camm. Scoticus.
Victoria.
John Davidson.
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
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PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
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THE FNCOMPARABILIS SECTION.
~y
5
Sulphur and White Varieties—The characteristic feature of
this division is refinement. Many of the varieties carry the flowers
in a drooping manner, and are very graceful. They can scarcely be
termed suitable for town gardens, as their exquisite delicacy of
colour renders them very liable to become soiled by the impurities of
the atmosphere. In the country, where their beauty is unlikely
to be marred, they are superb.
albicans. Mrs. J. B. M. Camm.
cernuus. Mrs. Vincent.
C. W. Cowan. pallidus precox,
L’ Innocence. tortuosus.
Madame de Graaff, W. P. Milner.
moschatus, William Goldring.
Double Varieties.—The large trumpeted section of the
Narcissus family does not afford many double varieties. The most
valuable is the common double Dattodil, N. Telamonius plenus,
which is unexcelled for naturalisation in grass, and is one of the
most satisfactory for pot culture.
‘ecapax plenus. plenissimus.
cernuus plenus. Scoticus plenus,
minor plenus. Telamonius plenus.
Large Trumpet Daffodils for Pots.— broadly speaking,
all the varieties that have been enumerated succeed under pot
culture as long as this is understood to mean very gentle advance-
ment into flower. Where, however, decided measures are to be
adopted to induce early flowering, those varieties carrying the
bud very high up towards the neck in the dormant bulbs will
be found the most satisfactory. As a single variety possessing this
peculiarity in a marked degree, the beautiful bicolor Victoria may be
noted, and as a double the old Telamonius plenus. Many complaints
of Daffodils failing under forcing may be traced to the fact that
unsuitable varieties have been chosen, and no regard has been had
for the rule of guidance provided in the position of the flower
in the bulb.
The Incomparabilis Section.—The governing characteristics
of this most charming section is that the corona or crown shall
be half as long as the segments of the perianth. Some modification
of this standard is observable in a few varieties, in which the cup
is approximately three-quarters the length of the perianth segments.
The Jabours of the hybridist in this division have been crowned
by some remarkable results, Mr. Engleheart particularly having
given us some hybrids and secondary hybrids of the highest
excellence. These efforts have not been directed so much to
increasing the bulk of the fiower as to improving its contour
and substance, and at the same time enriching the colour. As
typifying these points the brilliant Lucifer may be mentioned. It
has elegance of form, richness of colour, and such substance as will
(=p)
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
FIG. 25.- NARCISSUS ALMA.
(See page 71.)
CYGNET.,
NARCISSUS
—NARCISSUS CYGNET.
. 26.
FIG
(See page 71.)
78 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
allow it to be kept fresh in water about twice as long as any
other variety.
Contrary to general supposition, which accords specific rank to
Incomparabilis, this is really of hybrid origin, the parentage, as
in the Barril section, to which attention will presently be called,
being yellow trumpet Daffodils and Narcissus poeticus.
Selection of Incomparabrlis varveties.
* Autocrat. *Queen Bess (very early).
* Beauty. Queen Sophia.
C. J. Backhouse. semi-partitus.
Commander, *Sir Watkin (the noblest
*Cynosure. of the section).
George Nicholson. | *Stella,
*Gwyther. *Stella superba.
*King of the Netherlands. - Strongbow (see p. 79).
Mabel Cowan (late). * Titan.
Princess Mary.
From the vigour of habit which enables them to carry their flowers on
long, stout stems, and the beauty of their colouration, those marked * are
peculiarly adapted for naturalisation in grass and for massing in nursery beds
for cutting. For the former purpose, too, the subjoined doubles are suitab:e,
though they have scarcely the grace of the singles.
Double forms of Incomparabilis.
Butter and Eggs. Eggs and Bacon (Orange
Codlins and Cream (Sulphur - Pheenix).
Phoenix). Golden Phoenix (very fine).
The Leedsii Section. — belonging to the botanical division
known as imedio-coronati, and having similar distinguishing
characteristics as to size as the Incomparabilis, the Leedsil
varieties must have the corona or cup either pure white or soft
lemon, passing to white with age. This section is artificial, having
white trumpet Daffodils and poeticus as its parents. If the entire
family be considered in sections, each complete in itself, it will
be seen that in the Leedsii lies the essence of refinement. That
individuals from each might be chosen against which no word
could be raised none will dispute, but the Leedsii division may be
regarded as a whole, and no really coarse member will be
discovered, though some will, of course, be more refined than others.
Selection of Leedsit varieties.
amabilis. Madge Matthew.
Beatrice. *M. Magdaline de Graaff.
*Duchess of Brabant. * Minnie Hume. .
*Duchess of Westminster. Modesty.
*Fanny Mason. *Mrs. Langtry.
Gem. Palmerston (late).
*Grand Duchess (early). Princess of Wales.
*Katherine Spurrell.
* See note at foot of Incomparabilis,
nme
aie
STRONGBOW.
FIG. 27.-NARCISSUS STRONGBOW
(See page 78, )
80 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
The Barrii Section.—The relationship between this section
and Incomparabilis is intimate, as both are of the same origin,
but the distinguishing characters show a marked difference. ‘To
be a Barrit the segments of the perianth must be twice or more
the length of the short, expanded corona or crown.
If this division were limited to one variety only, and this was
the now comparatively aged conspicuus, it might still be said to be
one of the most important. For massing in the border, the bed,
or in grass, this variety has no superior, while for cutting it is
superb. Happily, too, it is so low in price that it is within the
means of everyone.
Selection of Barri varveties.
conspicuus. Miriam Barton.
Crown Prince. Mrs. C. Bowley.
Cupid (very late). Orphée.
Flora Wilson. Sensation,
Maurice Vilmorin.
It may be noted in respect of the Incomparabilis, Leedsii, and
Barril sections that the colour, especially of the margin of the
corona, varies with the period of flowering and with the age of
the flower. For example, richly edged varieties under pot
culture are apt to come slightly paler under the unnatural
conditions of growth. Again, many of these lose colour rapidly
under the fierce rays of the sun, and for cutting should be secured
at about the three-quarter expanded state of the bud, when all the
intensity is retained without loss to either the size or the substance
of the bloom.
The Humei Section.—To all intents and purposes this section
is limited to two varieties, whose flowers are of a pronouncedly
‘nodding character. They make up in interest and charm, both
for border culture and naturalisation, what the section lacks in
numbers.
Hume’s concolor, Hume’s Giant.
Selection of Backhousei Varieties.—This is a compara-
tively small section, but one whose marked characteristic—a
dwarfed, stout, trumpet shaped corona—makes it not only very
distinct but also very desirable.
Backhousei. William Wilks.
Border Maid. Wolley Dod.
Joseph Lakin.
Selection of Nelsoni Varieties.—The scgments of the
perianth in this section are of much substance and pure white,
while the corona is somewhat goblet shaped, and usually of great
beauty. Every variety is suitable for any form of outdoor culture,
ae
SOME OF THE SMALLER NARCISSI 81
and for growing in pots their striking though refined character
makes them very desirable.
aurantius. pulchellus.
major. Stanley.
Mrs. Backhouse. William Backhouse.
Selection of Bernardi Varieties.—This section makes up in
beauty and interest what it lacks in numbers. Like many of our
beautiful Narcissi the type comes from the Pyrenees, where it is
‘found as a natural hybrid, and it was the veteran Peter Barr who
proved the parentage to be N. poeticus and N. abscissus. Need-
less to say, the floweris of the most refined character.
Bernardi. Fire Glow (new and expen-
H. E. Buxton. sive),
Selection of tridymus Varieties.—[rom the foregoing sec-
tion that of tridymus differs in many respects, but the distinction
is now raised because it is a garden instead of a natural hybrid.
The parents were a large trumpet variety and a form of Narcissus
Tazetta (Polyanthus Narcissus), and from the latter it inherits the
propensity to produce two or three flowered scapes and a sweet
perfume.
A. Rawson. St. Patrick (expensive),
Cloth of Gold (expen- S. A. de Graaff.
sive). The Twins (new and expen-
Miss White. -. sive),
Selection of triandrus Varieties.—The popular name that
has been accorded to these Daffodils is Angels’ Tears, and its
peculiar appropriateness is not fully realised until the delightful
flowers are seen in some congenial spot whose soil is gritty loam,
well drained and moderately heavily shaded. The plants rarely
exceed 7 inches in height, and the mode of carrying the flowers
on the stem has given rise to another favourite appellation—
Cyclamen flowered Narcissus.
albus. concolor.
calathinus, - pulchellus,
Selection of odorus Varieties.—In this small section we
find the fragrant Jonquils, whose flowers sell in their tens of
thousands in the big markets of the country. They may be planted
in clumps in borders, or cultivated in pots, but the ideal place is
in the grass towards the margins of streams or lakes, where their
Nush-like leafage makes them singularly appropriate, apart from
the charming yellow blooms.
odorus (the Camper- odorus plenus.
nelle Jonquil). Campernelli plenus (rare
heminalis rugulosus, and expensive).
Rush-leaved Daffodils.—Apart from the Jonquils, there are
at least three Rush-leaved Daffodils that are very charming. They
F : |
82 PICTORIAL PRAOTIOAL BULB GROWING.
are scarcely suitable for naturalisation, however, as the flowers are
very small; indeed, juncifolius is best in pots; it grows about
4 inches in height, and is effective in 3- or 4-inch pots. Gracilis
exceeds 1 foot in height, and produces three or five flowered scapes,
which are charming in pots or in a suitable position in the flower
>= ————
FIG. 28, NARCISSUS POETICUS ORNATUS.
(See page 83.)
garden. ‘The blooms are very late in expanding. The slender
straw coloured Daffodil tenuicr grows about 9 inches high, and
carries several small flowers on a stem. ‘The first named of this
trio belongs to the Medio-coronati, and the second and third
named to the Parvi-coronati section, which is now to be dealt with.
The True Narcissi.—To the section distinguished by Baker
as Parvi-coronati belongs the distinction of having within its fold
THE POET’S NARCISSUS. 83
the small crowned Daffodils, or true Narcissi, which is typified
in poeticus. The governing characteristic is that the segments of
the perianth shall be more than twice as long as the crown or
corona, which is usually very flattened or expanded.
Selection of Burbidgei Varieties.—The fanciful name of
Star Narcissi has been given to the several varieties of the
Burbidgei section, whose origin is due to a cross between Incom-
parabilis and poeticus. They are extremely free flowering, and
their graceful habit makes them admirable for every form of
culture to which Daffodils are subjected. Again, they are very
valuable for all purposes of decoration, in which respect they
resemble the forms of poeticus.
Burbidgei John Bain.
Agnes Barr. Little Dirk.
Baroness Heath, Model.
Ellen Barr. ~ The Pet.
Falstaff, Vanessa,
Selection of poeticus Varieties.—If one were able to take a
plebiscite of the Daffodil lovers throughout the country, including
those who buy their penny and twopenny bunches of flowers, it
is more than probable that the place of honour would be accorded
to the chaste Poet’s Narcissus, which is beloved of everybody.
Make a judicious selection, and you have one of the finest
Daffodils for forcing that it is possible to procure; grow them by
hundreds in the garden and by thousands in the grass of the
woodland, and their beautiful flowers will never fatigue the eye.
Narcissus poeticus divides naturally into early and late flowering
sections, and the members of the former only are amenable to
forcing treatment, for ahich the finest of all is ornatus.
Larly:
Almira grandiflorus. precox grandifiorus.
ornatus (see p. 82). poetarum,
Late.
Marvel. poeticus of Linnzus,
poeticus (the old Phea- Verbanensis.
sant’s Kye).
N. poeticus plenus is usually called the Gardenia flowered
Narcissus, alike for its fragrance and the build of the flowers.
Unfortunately, the buds are apt to come blind, two of the things
predisposing to this being late planting and a very dry, hot position.
Selection of Tazetta.—From a garden aspect, the Tazetta
section—or, as it is almost invariably termed, the Polyanthus
section—owes its popularity to Dutch raised varieties, whose
value lies in their adaptability to pot culture. The following
are, however, thoroughly worthy of inclusion :—
Hermione citrina. intermedius major.
Hermione Mediterranea. intermedius Sunset,
84 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Dutch Varieties.
Bathurst. Maestro.
Bazelman Major. Paper White and its
Double Reman. varieties.
Gloriosa. Queen of the Netherlands.
Grand Monarque. Soleil d’Or.
Her Majesty. States Genera.
Jaune Supreme. White Pearl.
The most useful of these for forcing are Paper White, in two
or three varieties, and Double Roman, all pure white and
extremely floriferous.
Interesting Small-cupped Daffodils.—In addition to those
to which attention has been called, there are several species
that are extremely interesting, though they may not possess
high merit as florist’s flowers. Biflorus, the Primrose Peerless
Daffodil, is well known and much admired, as also are Jon-
quilla and its double form, both of which are delightfully
fragrant. The Jonquils are more useful for pot culture than
for outdoors, where, if planted, they must have a warm posi-
tion, in which they can receive winter protection. Schizanthes
orientalis is bunch flowered, and grows 14 inches in height ;
while the rare little serotinus carries its flowers on slender
stems in autumn.
Rare and Expensive Daffcdils.
Except in occasional instances, the rarer varieties have
been excluded from the foregoing selections, as the stock being
very limited makes them exceedingly expensive to procure.
Many of these have been raised by the Rev. G. H. Engleheart,
Mr. J. W. Barr, the Rev. Eugene Bourne, and Mr. Backhouse ;
while a few have come to us from Holland. To those who
aspire to the dignity of being amongst the foremost specialists
in Daffodil land some of the novelties are essential, but it
must be understood that the purse should have long strings
if half a dozen or a dozen are wanted.
There can be no question as to the magnificence of such as
Peter Barr, Weardale Perfection, Monarch, Big Ben, Lord
Loberts, Duke of Bedford, and King Alfred; or of the striking
beauty of Albatross, Border Maid, Cassandra, Una, Egret,
Lucifer, Maggie May, Sceptre, Seagull, and White Queen, but
one bulb of each of the seventeen enumerated would involve
an expenditure of upwards of 150 guineas at the prices quoted
in Barr’s catalogue. The superb white Ajax Peter Barr heads
the list with 50 guineas, which must surely be a record for a
single Daffodil bulb, in this or any other country.
Abundant and Cheap Daffodils.
Just as there are Daffodils whose cost is so great as to
allow of their culture only by the favoured few, so are there
DAFFODILS FOR ROCKIWORK. 85
Daffodils which are so cheap that they come within the scope ol
anyone having a garden. But strictly speaking, it is not for
the home garden, often of severely limited extent, that low
priced varieties are required, because in this case the re-
stricted numbers necessary do not involve a great outlay,
except under special circumstances. It is those who wish to
furnish areas of grass in lawns, wild gardens, woodland walks,
and grassy meadows, demanding thousands of bulbs, that look
for those which will make the best display for the lowest
initial cost. Some excellent varieties are :—
Barrii conspicuus. Henry Irving.
Johnstoni Queen of odorus.
Spain. princeps.
pallidus precox. Telamonius plenug
Horsefieldii. John Bain.
poeticus, Emperor.
poeticus ornatus. Palmerston.
obvallaris, abscissus,
Sir Watkin. Stella.
Burbidgei. W. P. Milner.
Daffodils for Rock Gardens.
broadly speaking, any Daffodil that fourishes in the border
will thrive in the rock garden, but the wise worker invariably
euts his coat according to his cloth, and rather selects his
varieties according to his rockwork. In rock gardens of con-
siderable extent, such as are found in a few places, situations
can be found for representatives of the several sections of the
Narcissus family, but in small rockeries only those that make
low growth, and will therefore be in harmony with their neigh-
bours, ought to be chosen. It will frequently be found that
varieties which make little or no progress in the general border
will flourish amazingly in the rockery, for the simple reason
that here a special soil may be provided 1f desirable, and a
position can be chosen that ensures partial shelter from the
sun. Again, in rockeries the perfection of drainage is readily
ensured, and protective material can be applied in winter if
necessary. Some of the best for rockwork are :—
cyclamineus. nanus.
cyclamineus major, Bulbocodium (Hoop Pet-
juncifolius. ticoat) in variety.
The Sweet Scented triandrus albus (Angel’s
Jonquil. Tears).
minor, Macleail.
minimus. moschatus
Daffodils for Pots.
One occasionally hears it said that the varieties of Daffo-
dils required for pot culture must be chosen with the greatest
care, but as a mater of fact any sort one likes to put in pots
and treat properly will grow and flower satisfactorily.
&6 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter XXVi,—Dablias.
We hear the hypercritical person saying that it is quite wrong to
include Dahlias in this series of articles, as their roots are not bulbs
at all, but tubers. This is, of course, perfectly true, but it is also
beyond refutation that to the amateur the differences between
bulbs, tubers, and corms are hazily understood, and those who do
comprehend them admit that it is the flowers they want, and
whether they are produced from this form of root or that does not
make an iota of difference. The fact that the portion of the stem of
their Dahlias which is buried beneath the soil swells up and is—
thenceforth called a tuber has small interest to them in comparison
with the best methods to induce the plants to bring flowers to
perfection, either for their own enjoyment in the garden or for
exhibition.
Both as an exhibition and_a garden flower the Dahlia hae seen
many changes, and has probably fluctuated more in. general esteem
than any of our hardy or half-hardy plants. During the days of
the rage for formality in the garden, as in everything else, the
Show and Fancy Dahlias had an extraordinary vogue, and there
were. gatherings in their honour from one end of the country to
the other. Then came the inevitable change in fashion, and the
supremacy of the Dahlia had a rude shaking. Again therecame the
rise and the fall, until now we find the family at a height of popularity
above which it is not likely to rise very much, and from which it is
scarcely probable that it will fall.
It may, we think, be safely said that the present position on a
thoroughly firm basis is largely due to the development of the
Cactus section, which provides a flower of brilliant beauty without
the severe formality of the older florists’ type. In it we have an
essentially garden flower as well as an exhibition one; hence its
high position in public esteem at the present day, when the demand
for beauty in the garden is greater than it ever was before. To a
smaller degree but still worthy of recognition in a good work, the
popularity is owing to the inception of the char ming “ Faney ” singles
which were raised in the first place by the late Mr. T. W. Girdlestone :
ey are floriferous, and there are several exquisite colours amongst
them.
Purely for garden adornment, there are many people who hold to
the opinion that it is impossible to find a section that can compete
with the small Pompons, whose freedom of flowering is little short
of marvellous. It is raised against them by their detractors that
they are equally as formal as the Show and Fancy types; but.
DAHLIA EVA.
CO
~J
88 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Photo : Cassell and Co., Ltd.
FIG. 30.—YELLOW CACTUS DAHLIA MRS. CASTLE.
~ (See page 90.)
SELECTIONS OF DAHLIAS. 89
| while this cannot be disputed, it must be granted that their
_ floriferousness takes off from the stiffness to a very large extent.
One can feel nothing but pleasure that every section has its
_ adherents, as there is room in our gardens for them all, and it
would be a thousand pities if either of them was allowed to die
out.. So long as they all have their keen partisans, so long will
I they be widely grown and highly appreciated. As to their value in
- the garden it were an impossibility to speak too generously, for
_ from the middle of August until the end of September, and often
much later, the oardens of England would be bare indeed did
they not contain a considerable quantity of Dahlias.
Fortunately they are plants of the small as well as of the large
garden, and many of us have seen blooms in the cottagers’ enclosures
that would in no sense have been out of place in any exhibition in
the country. In numbers they could not have competed with
those of a Walker, a Mortimer, a West, a Turner, or a Keynes, but
individual examples there were whose inclusion in a stand from
either of these sources would have brought no disgrace thereto.
Selections of Dahlias.
Twelve Show Varieties. Fancy Varieties, con-
Colonist, chocolate and tinued.
fawn. Matthew Campbell, buff
Dr. Keynes, rich buff. and crimson.
Duchess of York, lemon, Mrs. J. Downie, orange
edged pink. and scarlet.
J.T. West, yellow edged Mrs. Saunders, yellow and
purple. white.
John Walker, white. Rev. J. B. M. Camm,
Maud Fellowes, pink, yellow and red.
shaded purple. T. W. Girdlestone, lilac,
Mrs. Gladstone, pale’blush., striped maroon,
Mrs. Langtry, cream and Watchman, yellow,striped
crimson. crimson.
= ae ee oe Twenty - four Cactus
y : Varieties.
Victor, dark maroon.
William Powell, primrose.
Wm. Rawlings, crimson
Ajax, orange and buff.
Alpha, white, flaked
purple.
peeple. ce Britannia, salmon, shaded
Twelve Fancy Varieties. apricot.
Buffalo Bill, buff, striped Clara G. Stredwick,
vermilion. salmon, shaded yellow.
~ Dorothy, fawn and Cornucopia, reddish sal-
maroon. mon.
Duchess of Albany,orange Eva, white (see p. 87).
and crimson, Gabriel, crimson, tipped
Emin Pasha, yellow, white. ;
striped crimson. Galliard, crimson scarlet.
Frank Pearce, rose, striped Island Queen (see p. 91).
crimson. J. H. Jackson, maroon.
Goldsmith, yellow, striped J. W. Wilkinson, rosy
crimson. crimson.
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Cactus Dahlas, con-
tinued.
J. Weir Fife, purplish
crimson.
Lord Roberts, ivory white
Mrs. Carter Page, deep
crimson.
Mrs. Castle, yellow (sce
yp. 88).
Mrs. Edward Mawley,
clear yellow.
Mrs. J. J. Crowe, canary
yellow.
Mrs. Winstanley, scarlet
shading to yellow.
P. W. Tulloch, salmon
tinted purple.
Prince of Yellows, deep
yellow.
Ringdove, pinkish fawn
shaded white.
Rosine, rose.
Vesta, pink.
Viscountess Sherbrooke,
terra-cotta.
Twelve Pompon Varieties.
Adelaide, blush edged
lavender.
Arthur West, rich crimson
Bacchus, bright crimson
scarlet,
Daisy, salmon _ shaded
amber.
Pompon Vurietves, con-
tinued.
Darkest of (Ai = dark
maroon.
Donovan, white tipped
lavender.
Doris, silvery lilac.
K. F. Junker, pale amber.
Kimily Hopper, yellow.
George Brinckman, white.
Nerissa, soft pink.
Tommy Keith, cardinal
tipped white.
Twelve Single Varieties.
Alice Seale, crimson
shaded scarlet.
Aurora, yellow suffused
orange,
Beauty’s Hyes, satiny
lilac, crimson disc.
Columbine, rose shaded
orange. ;
Demon, rich maroon.
Girlie, cream edged red. -
Leslie Seale, lilac, crimson
disc.
Miss Roberts, clear yellow
Polly Kecles, fawn, red
disc.
Robin Adair,
tipped white.
The Bride, pure white.
Victoria, crimson, white
band.
petunia
The Cultivation of Dahlias.
In at least one respect the management of Dahlias differs materially
from that of the greater number of plants that are grown in our
gardens, inasmuch as it provides a distinct period of rest, when
no attention whatever is called for from the owner. This extends
from the time the stools are stored for the winter until the moment
arrives for the propagation of fresh stock in the spring, or when
the old stools are brought forth for utilisation again. ‘To those
who want the finest flowers one has no hesitation in recommend-
ing the practice of raising young plants every year, as they produce
the best quality flowers for exhibition purposes. ‘This seems to be
the proper time for one to set about affording cultural directions.
Propagation. — ‘There are at least two methods of increasing
Dahhas, either of which may be adopted at will. he first to be
considered, and undoubtedly the better of the two, is from
cuttings taken in the spring. ‘These are secured by bringing the
stools from the store and placing them in some convenient position
in a house, where they may be just covered with soil; thiS is
DAHLIA ISLAND QUEEN.
i)
(
TIFUL MAUVE COLOURED CACTUS
DAHLIA ISLAND QUEEN.
ee page S89.)
FIG. 31—THE BEAU
99 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
kept moist, and with the warmth of the structure at that period |
of the year growths push quickly from many invisible eyes (more |
correctly buds), and these are taken as cuttings. Many growers |
staunchly advocate the discarding of the first shoots which are |
produced, on the ground that they are so sappy that good plants |
cannot be hoped for from them.
Some of the earliest growths are by no means gross, and will :
certainly give satisfactory results if they are properly looked after. |
If it can be seen that the shoot is sappy, throw it away ; but if }
it is firm, retain and use it.
Each cutting should be given a small pot, using a fibrous loam, |
with a little coarse sand to ensure free passage of water. Very
little drainage is necessary, and short stubby shoots cut squarely
beneath a joint should be chosen. If the stools are placed in heat §
at the beginning of March, and the house is warm, growths §
3 or 4 inches Jong will be produced in about ten or twelve |
days; or, if these do not appear suitable, they may be removed |
and the second crop of shoots secured. |
After insertion, in the course of which it is imperative to see
that the base of the cutting rests upon the base of the hole, the
pots should be plunged in a bed that has a bottom heat of about
65°, with their tops as close as possible, without touching, to the
glass above them. Neglect of the observance of this latter point |
generally results in the growth becoming leggy and weak, instead
of remaining sturdy and strong. Shading must be employed in
sunny weather, and while many recommend a permanent wash of
whiting and milk, we prefer to have movable material, to be used #
when necessary and not at other times.
Plenty of air is essential at this stage, and the leaves must be
lightly sprinkled when required. When it is seen that root action
_ is well on the way, take the plants to a cooler structure and prepare
to place them in 3-inch pots, using a compost of best yellow loam,
leaf mould, the refuse from a Mushroom bed, and sand in pro-
portion to the retentiveness of the loam. Exercise the utmost
care not to break the tender roots, and when the work is completed
stand the plants in a warm frame or a greenhouse, close to the
glass in either case. }
Th2 second method by which increase can be effected is by
division of the stools after these have been started, as suggested
for the production of cuttings. The division must be done with
a view to having a growth to each piece, and if potted singly and |
treated as advised for cuttings they will make good plants in due
course.
One other means by which plants may be raised is deserving
of brief reference, as by its aid we secure our new varieties. This
is from seeds, but the process is too tedious and has to be carried
ont on such an extensive scale if anything like good results are
desired, that it is rather beyond the ken of the amateur, who is —
wise in leaving it to the professional Dahlia grower, from whom
|
93
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PLANTING DAHLIAS. 95
the few meritorious varieties (in comparison with the number
raised) can always be procured. ‘The seeds should be sown in a
warm house in March, in boxes or pots according to convenience,
potted singly as soon as they are large enough, and planted out when
the weather is favourable in June. They are extremely floriferous,
and from a good strain a gem may be occasionally secured,
Management of Young Plants.—With the placing in the
3-inch pots of the rooted cuttings the work of the grower is not
finished, as it is now his object to keep the plants moving steadily
forward until the period for planting comes along. It may be
necessary to transfer the plants into larger pots, and if so a
similar compost to that already recommended should be used. In
any case, if they are in a greenhouse, get them into a frame as
soon as possible, particularly if one with a little bottom heat is
at command, because here it is an easy matter to keep the plants
in progress, and ensure them retaining their hardness and stoutness
by constantly admitting fresh air. To raise fine cuttings and then
to spoil them by coddling, as there is no doubt is often done, is
worse than a pity—it is folly—and must be guarded against by all
possible means.
Planting Out.—The soil is best prepared some time in
advance of planting, to allow the food that has been put into
it to become amalgamated and to permit the ground to settle
down. The best natural manure at command should be incor-
porated with the ground, working it where it is possible to do so
into the second spit, and having an upper layer of pure loam, so
as to prevent the roots coming in actual contact with the manure.
To economise manure, the land should be prepared in stations
4 feet apart all ways, in order to allow each plant to have the fullest
benefit of ight and air.
The first thing to do is to insert the stake, and it must
be one that is not only of good height but very strong, as .
from it all ties will be taken for the support of the branches.
When the plants are approaching to full growth, it will be
necessary to place about four other stakes in position, but this
does not warrant the cultivator in having a weak central one.
Then, when the proper time arrives, the plants must be put out,
placing them comparatively close to the stake, and attaching a
loose tie at once in case of a quickly rising heavy wind. Make
the soil firm about the roots, but do not go so far as to stamp
upon it, as people have been seen to-do before now.
The object of placing the food in the second spit is to
prevent the roots getting into it too soon, as they certainly will do
if it is on the surface. Grossness of growth at all stages is
undesirable, but particularly when the plants are very young, as
it is difficult, if not impossible, to persuade them to grow out
of it, and the blooms come with serious defects which render
them quite unfit for exhibition purposes, and not of material
value for the adornment of the garden. By the time the plants are
96 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
firmly established in the soil the roots will have found the
special food, and the growths will be so numerous and so vigorous
that they will be in a fit condition for its reception.
When the plants are in their most active state the amount of
food that they call for is enormous, and their wants must be supplied
or the results will not come up to our expectations or ambitions.
In respect of the best kinds of feod for Dahlias, one is not met
with any serious difficulties, as the plants are sufficiently | accommo-
dating to appreciate practically anything that is good, provided it
is afforded in reason and variety. ‘To keep applying the same
thing is certainly injudicious, as the plants tire of it, and do not
derive the benefit that they should do.
The time of planting is a very important point, as upon it
may rest the difference between success and failure. Let the fact
that the Dahlia is a half-hardy plant be ever borne in mind, or in
our haste to get the plants in their permanent quarters we may put
them out before danger from late frosts 1s passed. The results of
this practice are often disastrous, as it does not require a very
hard frost to do irremediable damage. Early in June is the most
general time, but even then a sharp look-out should be kept, so
that if frost appear imminent protective material may be instantly
placed about the plants. This close observation should be maintained
until the third week of June at least, and ought really never to be
relaxed.
Reducing the Growths.—One sometimes sees it recommended
to retain all the growths a plant may produce, but it is rarely indeed
that this policy is wise, as, even for garden decoration, the results
are infinitely more satisfactor y when a certain reduction is made.
Pompon varieties differ so materially from the Show and Fancy
sections that they may for a moment be left out of consideration. |
~The ideal number of growths to retain when the grower has the |
exhibition of blooms as his primary object, is four for Show and |
Fancy sections, the same, or perhaps one more, for the beautifui |
Cactus varieties, seven for the singles, and practically all that
are produced in the case of the Pompons. The reason that more
shoots are retained in the two latter sections is simply because
reduction spells size, and in neither of these is this by any means a
recommendation on the exhibition table. The selected growths
should be chosen well down on the main stem, and these again
will demand pinching, but not until they have made substantial
progress. After the secondary breaks are secured, all shoots
springing from them must be rigidly removed.
Staking.—Hand in hand with the thinning must run the staking,
and uuless this is properly carried out it is useless to hope for the
production of blooms sufficiently meritorious for placing upon the
exhibition table. The constant swaying about to which the wind
will inevitably subject them will either blow out the growths
themselves, or so injure the flowers by bruising as to render them
worthless. We have already got the principal support into position,
PROTECTING DAHLIAS. 97
and round this must be arr ayed other strong stakes, corresponding in
“number with the growths, each one being furnished with a support
of its own. ‘To these the shoots are attached, firmly, yet so freely as
to permit the shoot to move about and expand as the plant attains
age. If it should become necessary to remove one of the stakes when
srowth is well advanced, let the operation be carried out with the
utmost care, and put the new support in the hole left by the removal
of the first one. This obviates the probability of damage accruing.
Timing Blooms.—In this les, to a very large degree, the
cultivator’s success in the econ arena, as males aE can
manage this correctly he can never rely upon having his flowers
in at the required time. It is one of the several operations in
gardening that experience in a particular soil and district will teach,
aided by the closest observation and persistent diary making, so
as to have a record of progress from year to year. Until this
experience has been gained (and the wise man will continue it
afterwards) several buds in different stages should be chosen for
retention, in order to guard, as far as possible, against an error. At
this stage the greatest worry will arise from the prevalence of
earwigs, whose faculty for selecting the finest buds upon which to
exercise their power of destruction approaches to the miraculous.
Of these mention will be made in due course.
Protecting Blooms. —Following hard upon the timing in
importance, as regards exhibition produce, is the protection of
the flowers as well from the effects of the weather as from the
ravages of earwigs and other pests. It used to bea very common
practice in some parts of the country, and probably still is in
certain districts, to enclose each bud in a bag made of soft muslin,
this being with a view to keeping earwigs at bay. But it is not
this aspect of the case that will be dealt “with at this juncture ; it
is rather the protection of the developed, or nearly so, bloom from
atmospheric effects that must receive attention. The shades specially
made and sold for this purpose are the best things to employ,
and, though they may be rather expensive at the outset, they must
be procured, and will, with reasonable care, last for a considerable
period. Home-made contrivances are frequently utilised by growers,
and will be found to answer admirably, provided they are properly
constructed with knowledge of the form of the flower and the
particular object in their use. Those made with canvas sides
strained on to a wire frame are probably the most useful form to
employ, but it should be regarded as essential that they have a
movable cover, or one of glass and another of wood. The idea of
thus providing two tops is to have at hand a dark or a light shade
for use, according to discretion, as while some flowers bleach in the
sunlight and others burn, still more demand brilliant light before
their richest hues can be brought out ; afterwards these, too, May |
require protection. Again, the protectors will perform a valuable
service in the timing of the flowers, for when skilfully employed
they will accelerate or retard a bloom to an appreciable degree. it
G
98 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
is usually desirable to have the shades in position some twelve
or fifteen days prior to the date at which the flowers are required.
The utmost care must be taken that the bloom does not move in the
protector, or the outer florets will be ruined by the friction.
Dahlias for Garden Adornment.—The brilliant effects that |
can be produced in the garden by the different sections of the Dahlia
warrant the gardener in according the best attention in his power to
the plants. The miserable examples which are often seen are not
worthy the name of Dahlias, and have little or no resemblance
to thoroughly well grown plants. It is not to be supposed that the
gardener with his multifarious duties, or the amateur with his
varied loves and limited accommodation, can achieve the success |
that crowns the efforts of the specialist ; nor would it be possible for
either of these to imitate the elaborate details to which the
enthusiast subjects his plants: each must work according to his
conveniences, and it is quite certain that all the labour that can be
given to the Dahlia quarters will be most generously repaid in the
infinitely greater number of vastly superior flowers that the plants
will produce.
As far as possible, the producer should adopt the suggestions that
have already been laid down for the development of exhibition
blooms, modifying the methods at any point where they are
too advanced or the conveniences at command will not permit of
their adoption. Many growers leave the stools in the ground from
one year’s end to the other, but the system has little to recom-
mend it beyond its unquestioned simplicity. If the stools are well
covered with ashes or other suitable protective material, they will
pass unscathed through a winter of normal severity, and produce
an abundance of flowers in the following year, but these will lack
many things that go to the making of a really good Dahlia.
- When this system is adopted the grower should reduce the number
of growths that push to about five, as these will bring almost as
many blooms as a greater number, and they will certainly be of
far better quality than when the plants are allowed to grow in
the guise of a thicket. It will be necessary, too, to apply even
more generous applications of liquid manure than when the plants
are put in fresh land, as the roots of the plants in the previous
season will have drawn out immense quantities of nutriment.
With a view to aiding in the feeding, it will be found advantageous
to remove a few inches of the top soil, putting in its place some
rich compost, or failing this using the depression thus made as a
saucer that will aid in conducting liquid nourishment directly down
to the roots.
Those, and their name is legion, who replant the old stools every
year may improve matters very considerably by the reduction of
the number of growths, precisely as has been recommended in the
foregoing paragraphs. The stools ought to be removed from the
place of storage and put in slight warmth, so as to have them in
active progress before they reach the open quarters. In other
GROWING DAHLIAS IN POTS. 99
respects the procedure may be on as nearly the lines laid down
for exhibition plants as ways and means will allow. Another course
may be followed, and with proper management it will give
wonderfully fine returns. This is to divide the stools into single
tubers, pot these in 5-inch pots of good compost, keep them in a
warm house with the soil always just moist, and when the time for
‘planting arrives put them out at a distance of 4 feet asunder in all
directions. If the soil has been made rich in the manner suggested,
and the plants are treated in all respects similarly to those from
cuttings, they will give blooms of almost equal merit, that may be
drawn upon for the show or be taken advantage of for garden
adornment alone.
Dahlias in Pots.—One other phase of culture remains to be
dealt with, and this is the practice of growing a few plants
eatirely in pots. Endeavours have been made of late years to
popularise this mode of treatment, but it cannot be said that the
results have proved very encouraging to the promoters. The fact
is that Dahlias are essentially garden flowers, and, though a certain
number of people may care to have some plants for flowering
in their greenhouses, it is unlikely that they will ever have any
great vogue for this purpose. [From the specimens one _ sees
occasionally, it is obvious that they resent in no slight manner
the restricted area in which the roots are working, and it seems to be
well-nigh impossible to keep the plants from becoming drawn and
carrying thin, pale foliage that does not look as if it could do much
service in the building up of fine blooms.
In setting out to grow these plants in pots, the general principles
that govern their culture in the ordinary way may well be made to
apply. That is to say, there must be the same care in propagating
from firm cuttings in the spring, and the same incessant attention
to the plants from the time that they pass out of the 3-inch pots in
which the cuttings were inserted until they have produced their crop
of flowers. Because they are growing in pots must not be taken as
justifying forcing treatment, for this will be followed by almost
instant collapse. Bring the plants gradually forward until they are
practically at the point of flowering, when a very little persuasion
may be resorted to if it be absolutely necessary; but even then it
will be accompanied by a modicum of risk. Watering must at all
periods be most carefully attended to, as it is imperative that the
plants be kept constantly, though slowly, moving onwards
Needless to say, with such gross feeding plants as Dahlias, it
will be essential to supply special food of the finest possible
peality, and in quantities increasing with the age and vigour of the
plants.
At all stages the plants must be kept as near to the roof glass
of the structure in which they are growing as possible, so as to
reduce to a minimum the probability of legginess. If the leaves
are far from the glass, they become attenuated, and, as with other
plants, cannot perform their important functions in an adequate
| of G
100 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
manner, with the natural consequence that the appearance of the
plants and the quality of the flowers are seriously prejudiced.
Enemies of Dahlias.—There can be no two opinions as to
what is the most inveterate enemy of exhibition Dahlias. It is the
earwig, for it will spoil a bloom in one night, and that bloom, as has
already been hinted, is sure to be the finest in the garden,
especially when one is explaining to one’s friends the reason why
one’s stand failed to carry off some coveted award. For a wiliness
that is absolutely uncanny, commend us to the earwig. We
place our traps with the utmost care, go round the plants after darx a
dealing out destruction to every earwig we can find, and retire to
rest comfortably assuring ourselves that our blooms are safe until the ©
morning, at any rate. But when morning comes our confidence
in our ability to cope with the earwig is roughly shattered, for
the one bloom needed to ensure success in the great class has gone
to ruin However, these things add sting to our attacks, and we
start forth with renewed determination that when next the earwig
comes in our way we will exterminate him root and branch.
Trapping and hand picking are our only resources, and they must
be persisted in until the blooms are actually on the exhibition table,
when we may feel reasonably confident that the danger is passed.
Some deluded individuals think that placing troughs of water all
round the Dahlia quarters will ensure immunity from attack,
but they overlook the fact that the earwig can and will fly, so
that their labour is absolutely in vain.
As slugs want everything that the gardener most prizes, it is
superfluous to say that they want the Dahlias, and if they can gain
access to them when young they will destroy all chances of
success in the show tent. Keep the surroundings of the plants
scrupulously clean at all periods, as slugs want hiding places, and it ~
should not be one of the duties of the grower to provide them by
having rubbish and litter about the cherished plants. Beyond
this, baiting with anything that will attract them and searching at
night are the only remedies, or more correctly preventives, for
there can be no redress when the plant is spoiled. Green fly
will attack the plants at the tips of the shoots, but a pinch of
snuff, some tobacco powder dusted upon them, and forcible evening
sprayings with clear or soft-soapy water will generally prove
efficacious. In all cases it is essential that our attacks be persistent,
as intermittent attention is worse than useless by placing us in a
position of false security.
HUCHARIS CULTURE. 101
Chapter XXVII.—€rvthroniums.
~ PopuLaRLy known as Dog’s Tooth Violets, these are most delightful
bulbous rooted plants for the rock garden or the border of miscel-
laneous subjects in the flower, vegetable, or fruit gardens. They are
not big growing by any means, and there is ever present a danger
that they may be overwhelmed by their grosser neighbours unless care
is taken that this does not occur. When once the bulbs have
become firmly established—and no difficulty should be experienced
in this direction—the growth will be sufficiently vigorous for the
plants to take care of themselves. Like so many of our most
charming bulbous plants, Erythroniums are admirably adapted for
culture in the grass, provided this can remain uncut until the
leafage has performed its proper functions.
Selection of Erythroniums.
Dens-canis, purple, pink, Hartwegii, yellow, early
and white; there are flowering.
several varieties, of Howellii, yellow.
which Japonicum and Johnstonu, red and pink;
Sibiricum are probably very beautiful.
the finest. Nuttallianum, golden
grandifiorum, yellow. yellow.
revolutum Bolanderi, white,
Chapter XXVIIL—€Eucharises.
No genus of bulbous plant with which we are acquainted offers so
fine an opportunity to the successful cultivator for wagging a finger
when pointing the moral at an unsuccessful brother. What passages
_ of arms there are at meetings of gardeners’ societies when Eucharis
culture is the subject under discussion! Separate the wheat of
common sense from the chaff of impassioned rhetoric, and it is found
that the man who wields the water-pot holds the secret of success in
his hand. ee
Eucharis flowers, like the poor, are always with us. They
adorn the font, attend the wedding, and if we have been so
- fortunate as to make a few friends, it is probable some of these
pure and fragrant flowers will go with us on our last journey to
|
God’s Acre.
102 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Eucharis Lilies are stove plants, provided with large, deep
green, broad-bladed leaves, and yielding tall spikes of lovely blooms
usually twice a year. ‘Three crops a year can be obtained from
the same plants, but it is a sweating process, and ultimately
ends in failure. Mellow loam, with a fourth part of peat, or leaf
soil, and some coarse sand added, makes a suitable compost. Good
drainage is absolutely essential. The size of pot used may vary
with the taste or needs of the grower, but as a guide to the
requirements of Eucharises, it may be said that six bulbs will find
accommodation in a 10-inch pot. Never re-pot Eucharises except
to save them from starvation; liquid manure and top-dressings
will keep plants healthy for a good while after the pots have become
well filled with roots.
After flowering, Eucharises should be rested by a reduction of the
water supply, and a temperature 5° or 10° lower than that in
which they have been growing; but it is necessary to add that
“drying off” or “cool treatment” are alike productive of failure.
The temperature for Eucharises should never fall below 60°.
The bugbear of Eucharis growers is the “ mite,” a tiny insect, |
Rhizoglyphus echinopus by name, which infests bulbs that have
suffered from some error of treatment. The mites can be killed
by soaking the bulbs for fifteen minutes in a mixture made of
+ 1b. of potassium sulphide dissolved in 3 gallons of water heated
to 115°. After their bath, put the bulbs on a sunny shelf in the
stove to dry, giving them no other shade than a sheet of thin
paper affords. Pot the bulbs after three weeks of dry treatment,
using small pots and sandy soil; plunge them where there is a
moderate bottom heat, and plenty of moisture in the atmosphere,
but of direct watering there must be none until both roots and
leaves have made considerable progress.
Selection of Eucharises.
candida, white; very Burfordiensis and Stevensi
pretty, but smaller in are hybrids; the former
all its parts than grandi- has white flowers, and
flora. the latter has also white
grandiflora, white; in flowers, but with a dis-
every way the best tinct yellow corona,
Eucharis. The Amazon-
ica of most gardens is
correctly grandiflora,
as
en re
p Race rer” ate:
PI
Se re ee ee
ncn LE
A NEW FREESIA. 103
Chapter XXIX.—freesias.
Ric and varied as is the flora of South Africa, it is doubtful
whether it contains a more beautiful, more fragrant, or more useful
class of plants than the elegant Freesias. Not so very many years
Photo: Cassell and Co., Lid.
- FIG. 34.—FREESIA AUREA.
«
avo he was accounted a clever gardener who could grow and flower
Freesias well year by year; but many amateurs soon found
that strong heat was not at all necessary to secure the most
satisfactory results. Failures with Freesias may generally be traced
to one or both of two mistakes—namely, a too free use of water in
the early stages of growth, and failure to fully appreciate the
advantages of thoroughly drying and baking the bulbs.
Let us descend to details—the Freesias are worth it. Five- or
104 =96 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
6-inch pots are quite large enough, and will accommodate ten or
twelve bulbs. Place the bulbs 1 inch deep in a mixture of 2 parts
loam, 1 part each of leaf soil and dried cow manure, with some sand
added. Pot up the earliest batch in August, and continue the work
at intervals according to the supply and demand. It is common to
plunge the pots, but we succeed better without. If the soil is dry,
sufficient water to just moisten it must be given before the
operation of plunging is performed, but if it is moderately moist
scarcely any water will be needed until growth is 8 or 4 inches high.
At this stage a little more warmth may be given, and water will be
needed frequently. Freesias have a strong dislike for a high
temperature when growing, and any attempt to force them will end
in failure. Provide the flower stems with a little support, but the
lighter and more unobtrusive this is the better. _
The next important point to consider is that of resting. Decrease
the supply of water directly the flowers have faded, and when the
leaves turn yellow cease watering. If in your greenhouse there is
a shelf on which the summer sun shines with roasting force, then
there need be no further search for an ideal spot for Freesias. In
such a position they will dry and rest without any attention, and
will be ready for potting about August
aurea, yellow (see p. 108). refracta Leichtlini, prim-
refracta, white and orange, rose yellow, with orange
refracta alba, white; the blotch.
best of the Freesias.
Chapter XXX.—fritillarias.
HERE we have a family whose charms are such as grow steadily upon
the cultivator, until beauty can be seen in every part of the flower.
To the lover of the garish they will possess no attraction whatever,
as theirs is a beauty that must be sought for. True, in the well-
known Crown Imperials, with their tiered whorls of leaves and
flowers, one has scarcely to look to see it, so striking is the habit of
the plants ; but in the majority we must perforce lift up the bloom—
whose form is that of the head of a snake, and has given rise to the -
common name of Snake’s Head Lily—to appreciate the charms that
lie within, and which the plant is far too modest to show for itself.
The full charm of the Snake’s Head is seen when the bulbs are
planted in grass, among the blades of which the nodding blooms on
their slender, arched pedicels, swaying in the gentlest breeze that
blows, are indescribably delightful. Many sorts become naturalised,
and form clumps of considerable extent in the course of a few years.
CROWN IMPERIALS. 105
FIG. 35.—THE CROWN IMPERIAL
(FRITILLARIA IMPERIALIS).
Selection of Fritillarias.
armena, purple; there are
red and yellow varieties,
_ aurea, yellow.
citrina, green.
Imperialis, yellow; there
are numerous varieties,
including some with
silver and gold varie-
gated leafage. Six of
the best are aurea mar-
ginata, argentea mar-
ginata, Aurora, Crown-
upon-Crown, rubra, and
Sulphurine.
latifolia, red.
lutea, yellow.
Meleagris, spotted purple;
several fine forms.
pallidifiora, pale yellow.
Persica, violet brown.
pudica, yellow.
Pyrenaica, purple.
recurva, orange scarlet;
this is very beautiful, but
somewhat difficult to es-
tablish in many gardens,
106 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter XXXI.—6ladioli.
NOTWITHSTANDING the superb exhibits of these gorgeously beautiful
flowers that we occasionally see at shows, it cannot be said that —
they are so éxtensively cultivated as might be wished. This seems to
be especially the case in the South of England, for they are
_ undoubtedly more frequently seen in the Midlands and in Scotland,
where they are magnificently represented in many gardens.
Knowing how finely they thrive “across the Border,” the
inexperienced are prone to think that they will only succeed in the
cooler climate which they there enjoy. That they like the soil
and the climatal conditions none will dispute, but it is equally
irrefutable that they will flourish almost, if not quite, everywhere in
England, if their requirements are assiduously studied. —
We find them in Cambridgeshire, in Somersetshire, and in the
Isle of Thanet, and in each case they are as near to perfection
as anyone need wish to see; these places are widely separated, and
differ substantially in every respect, thus showing what can be done
when the work is set about in a businesslike way, and with a
determination to achieve success.
The Gladiolus family may be said, as far as general culture is
concerned, to be divided into five sections, of which the principal
is that known as the Gandavensis, which is said to have originated
from G. psittacinus and G. oppositiflorus ; this comprises many
varieties of brilliant beauty, and some of them are very easily grown.
Then there is the Lemoinei section, which is of hybrid origin, and
contains some remarkable combinations of colours. From America we
have received, though it was raised in Germany, another hybrid
division named Childsu, after its introducer; the members of it
are strong growing, and very handsome in suitable positions. In
addition to these there are the Nanceianus section and the species
with their varieties, several of which are invaluable. A few Gladioli
are grown in pots, but the majority do not respond readily to
this method of culture, and should be placed in the garden.
Selections of Gladioll.
Hybrids of Gandavensis.
Althea, orange red, flaked Dalila, brightrose, blotched
crimson, violet blotch. and striped white.
Baroness Burdett-Coutts, Decima, rosy white, edged
lilac, tinged rose purple. crimson.
Casilda, pale yellow, rosy Dora Craven, white, car-
red blotch, mine blotch.
Colada, salmon red, white Dr. Bailly, scarlet, blotched
blotch, carmine on whiteground,
SELECTIONS OF GLADIOLI.
107
Hybrids of Gandavensis (continued).
Ella, lilac, shaded rose, Tolanthe, reddish pink,
crimson blotch. lowersegments feathered
Elvira, rose white, flaked crimson,
white, centre saffron. Lauretta, white, shaded
Fiametta, rich rose salmon. pink, flaked rose.
Flambeau, orange red, Martial, crimson, flaked
edged crimson, white scarlet. .
lines and blotch. Phineas, carmine, white
Formosa, satin rose, car- blotch.
mine stripe, white blotch, Pyramide, orange rose,
Glaive de Feu, salmon centre amber.
rose, ivory white blotch. Rosalind, pale rose, flaked
Grand Rouge, _ scarlet crimson.
crimson, Sorcerer, salmon _ red,
Hetty Dean, white, purple striped and_ spotted
blotch. maroon.
Iona, crimson, purple
blotch, centre white.
It should be understood that the newer varieties of G.
Gandavensis, such as are utilised for exhibition purposes, are
expensive, because the stock of corms is limited ; those included in
this selection provide very fine quality at a reasonable price.
Selection of Lemoinei.
Baron Joseph Hulot, deep Lamarck, crimson
violet blue. yellow stripes.
E, V. Halluck, pale yellow, M. Leveque,velvet crimson.
crimson blotches. Mare Micheli, pale lilac,
Eclipse, pale lilac, black lower segments violet.
red,
blotches. Mephistopheles, cinnabar
Ethiopie, violet red, black- red, black and sulphur
ish blotches, blotches.
General de Nansouty, blue, Rosa Bonheur, pale porce-
violet red _ blotches, lain, purplish blue
yellow edges. blotches,
Jane Dieulafoy, creamy
Senateur Volland, blue,
white, maroon blotches.
violet blotch, yellow
stripe,
Selection of Childsit,
Adolphe Close, slate blue, Columbia, scarlet, flaked
mottled white and crim- and spotted purple.
Dr. Sellow, carmine rose,
white bands,
William Falconer, pink,
mottled crimson.
son.
Ben Hur, brick red,spotted
— crimson.
Bessie Tanner, salmon
rose, blotched white.
Selection of Nanceicanus Varieties.
This section is of the same origin as QG. Childsii. Speaking
of these two divisions, Mr. J. Burrell, Cambridge, who is one of the
leading authorities on this genus, said: “ For all practical purposes
these (Nanceianus) and the Childsii might be bracketed together.
They are both derived from the species Saundersii; they both
108 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
have its bad faults of only opening two or three flowers on the |
spike before the others fade, and have the same tendency of the |
flowers to face downwards. The Nanceianus have the better |
colours, but there are no whites or yellows yet in either section.”
FIG. 364—A VARIETY OF GLADIOLUS GANDAVENSIS.
Colonel Gillon, rose, large Peau Rouge, coppery
white blotch,purple dots. salmon rose, marbled
G. A. Kuyp, carmine red, brown and yellow.
blotched and _ pencilled President Chandon, ver-.
purple on white. milion, blotched sulphur
Georges Frick, crimson, yellow.
blotched brown, pen- Tsarine, lilac rose, carmine
cilled white, blotch, white edge.
that they possess any very material value as
GLADIOLI FOR BEDDING. 109
Species and Hybrids of Gladioli.
Though these are comparatively numerous, it cannot be said
garden plants. An
exception is seen in the beautiful white variety of the hybrid
G. Colvillei, which is universally cultivated in pots, both under
ordinary and forcing treatment; it is an invaluable plant for the
purposes indicated, while it may also be utilised in the border if
such be desired. Others that are of substantial assistance to the
_ grower for pot culture are embodied in the subjoined list, and are
marked with an asterisk :—
*Adonis, orange scarlet,
white blotch.
atroviolacea, purple,
Brenchleyensis,
— scarlet.
. Byzantinus, rosy purple.
cardinalis, scarlet, flaked
white.
*Colvillei, rose purple,
striped white. 2
*Colvillei The Bride, white.
communis in variety.
*delicatissimus (Blushing
Bride), . white, rosy
crimson blotch.
*Fairy Queen, rosy white,
excellent for forcing.
brilliant
insignis, reddish purple.
*Mary Anderson, blush
white, flushed rose.
Mauve Beauty, pale lilac,
Non Plus Ultra, deep rose,
shaded scarlet.
oppositiflorus, white.
Prince Albert, deep salmon
rose.
psittacinus, yellow and
red.
Queen Victoria, deep red.
*Rosy Gem, pale rose,
white blotch.
Saundersii, scarlet and
white.
*Salmon Queen, salmon.
floribundus, citron.
Gladioli for Bedding.
When it is not desired to grow the choicest of the hybrids for
general bedding purposes, the following will be found of considerable
value, as they produce bold flowers of distinct colours :—
Beethoven, delicate rose, Lord Byron, carmine,
Brenchleyensis, brilliant blotched white.
scarlet. Magnificent, white, flushed
Cybele, satin rose, flamed carmine.
carmine. Walmer, glowing rosy
scariet,
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
110
FIG. 37.—GLADIOLUS COLVILLEI THE BRIDE.
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PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
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114 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter XXXil—Gloxinias
MopErN Gloxinias are descendants from Sinningia speciosa, hoiti-
culturally a useless plant as compared with the valuable race of
which itis the parent. The Gloxinias have literally been raised from
the dust. When first the old florists produced them the flowers were
pendulous, and each one had to be separately tied and staked that
the plant might make a presentable appearance. Gradually the bell-
shaped flowers were raised to a horizontal position, and their stems
were at the same time strengthened. Now we have erect flowers in all
the best strains, and it is not necessary to give any artificial support
unless the plants are for exhibition or have to travel some distance.
There are three distinct methods of increasing Gloxinias—by seeds,
by leaf cuttings, and by division of the rounded, tuberous root-stock.
The latter is an easy method, practised in spring, directly new growth
begins. For leaf cuttings it is best to select fully developed leaves of
an approved variety, cut through the midrib and principal veins with
a sharp knife, and peg them down on some moist sandy soil. Young
tubers will soon form at the severed parts, and when large enough
must be potted: A recommendable compost for tubers consists of 2
parts of fibrous loam, 1 part of leaf mould or peat, and sufficient sand
to keep the whole porous. For seedlings and young plants generally
it is advisable to increase the leaf mould or peat and reduce the
quantity of loam. In the matter of temperature a mean of 65° is
correct for the summer, but in the winter growing plants ought not
to be subjected to less than 55° even at night. For resting plants a
minimum of 45° will suffice, but 5° higher is safer.
It is quite possible within six months from seed sowing to secure
a splendid display of Gloxinias. The way to go about the business
is to sow seeds in one or more of the first three months of the year
according to the demand and the date at which it is desired to have
plants in flower. Provide the seed pot with ample drainage, and fill
it to within 4 inch of the rim with fine sandy soil; after pressing the
soil firmly, water it through a fine rose, and when the water has passed
away sow the seed thinly, cover the pot with a sheet of glass, put
thin paper on the glass, and stand all together in a house or pit where
a moist atmosphere and a temperature of 70° are maintained. Trans-
fer the seedlings to other pots or pans as they become large enough
to move, taking care not to disturb the tiny ones that lag behind.
Three-inch pots will be large enough for the next move, and from
thence to 5- or 6-inch pots will be sufficient for the next shift, and in
these the plants will flower.
<M
SELECTIONS OF GLOXINTIAS. 115
To keep Gl oxinias sturdy it is essential that fresh air be admitted
on all favourable occasions, but not in such quantity as to rapidly or
materially reduce either the temperature or the atmospheric moisture
in the house. Stand every plant clear of its neighbour, so that there
is no competition for light or moisture. When the flowers begin to
expand we want Gloxinias for the conservatory, and for this reason,
and also because the plants need it, drier and slightly cooler conditions
are desirable. Signs of the approaching season of rest will be observed
a short time after the last blooms fade, and these must be accepted
as notice to give water sparingly ; allow sun and air to do their part
in maturing the tuber previous to its annual sleep. Have a care
where the Gloxinias are stored, or it may happen that when the time
for starting them comes round again there will be rotten tubers asa
result of too moist conditions, or shrivelled, useless tubers because of
their proximity to the heating apparatus.
Selection of Gloxinias.
Aigburth Crimson, crimson
self.
Ariadne, maroon and pink,
veined ands potted crim-
son and rose.
Claribel, white
crimson,
Defiance, scarlet.
Electra, maroon and blue,
with white margin,
Ensign, purple and white.
Galatea, white,edged violet
purple.
spotted
Mont Blanc, white.
Netted Queen, white and
scarlet, netted rose.
Prince of Wales, crimson
scarlet.
Princess Maud, cherry red,
violet and white border.
Princess May, white, blush
tinted.
Reading Scarlet, rich scar-
let
Suttons’ Purple, purple,
white base.
The Beacon, crimson.
Her Majesty, white, very
fine,
‘SVINIXOTO SZOIOHO JO NOILOATION V—'lh ‘OI
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
116
HEMEROCALLISES AND HEPATICAS. 117
Chapter XXXIII1.—Bemerocallises.
THE popular title of Day Lilies, given to Hemerocallises, has
reference to the evanescent character of the individual flowers, but so
beautiful are they, and so freely produced over a considerable period,
that the species and hybrids have become prime favourites with
lovers of hardy plants. A sunny position is a matter of the first
- importance, but the Day Lilies are not so particular as to soil, though
the better this is the more freely are growths and flowers produced.
The new aurantiaca major seems to be the only one at all “tinicky ”;
it has high notions, and is satisfied with nothing less than deep and
fairly strong loam. It is such a beauty, however, that to secure its
success is worth an effort. Fortunately, Hemerocallises can be
readily increased by division of the thick roots in autumn or
spring. Large clumps are the most effective, therefore we advise
leaving the nurserymen to work up stock. To Mr. G. Yeld, of York,
praise is due for the many charming Day Lilies he has raised.
Selection of Day Lilies,
Apricot, apricot yellow. Flamid, orange yellow.
aurantiaca major, vivid flava, yellow.
orange, fulva, coppery yellow.
Dumortieri, orange and Sovereign, orange yellow
brown,
Chapter XXXIV.—Bepaticas.
It were an easy matter to dwell at length upon the beauty of Hepaticas
and the desirability of extending their cultivation, but those who
have once seen these gems in full bloom will need no further urging,
while for those who have never seen them it is hopeless to attempt
to convey an adequate idea of their loveliness. As Hepaticas
are strictly Anemones, forms of Anemone Hepatica, and thrive best
in a deep but rich and light soil, like other choice members of the
genus, it is unnecessary to add more in the way of cultural directions
than suggest that the foot of the rock garden offers a suitable site for
them. An autumnal mulching with decayed stable manure or leaf
mould is of importance, owing to the habit the plants have of raising
their crowns above the soil.
A selection will include angulosa, bright blue, and the white, blue,
and red varieties of Hepatica triloba, all of which are represented by
beautiful double forms.
118 =. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter XXXV.—Dvacinths,
THE cultivation of Hyacinths in pots had a much greater vogue
a decade or two ago than it is favoured with at the present time.
One could then see them in every greenhouse and conservatory
in considerable numbers, whereas now they are either absent or
so poorly grown that they fail to make themselves conspicuous.
The reasons for this diminution in popularity may probably be
found in the increased variety of plants which we have at command,
to the fact that the majority of people now prefer to have plants
of more graceful habit, and such as will provide far more valuable
material for cutting, and again in the apparent inferiority of the
bulbs that come to us from Holland. |
Certain it is that the instances of the magnificent spikes which
were contributed to exhibitions in various districts, and the
equally splendid specimens in many a score of gardens, are compara-
tively limited, though happily not absolutely unknown. The bulbs
that reach this country in such vast numbers do not, in outward
appearance at any rate, suggest any material falling off in quality,
but it is a rare event to find Hyacinths in their several varied colours
of that quality which compels our appreciation, even while we
are out of sympathy with the formality of the flower.
For bedding purposes it seems that instead of depreciating in
general esteem they are steadily gaining, for their value for spring
bedding forces itself upon everyone. There is no doubt that beds
planted with Hyacinths of distinct colours are strikingly handsome,
and in addition to this, ina hurrying, scurrying age such as ours, the
fact that they are easily grown speaks loudly in their favour.
We see, however, even in this phase of Hyacinth culture, signs’
of a gradual but_none the less sure change. Time was when the one
kind only was employed, and it was the exception rather than the
rule for a carpeting to be used; while the inclusion of some totally
dissimilar bulb was regarded as a sacrilege rather than an improve-
ment. Look on every hand now, and what do we see? Are not,
broadly speaking, all the beds planted with something that will
hide the nakedness of the ground ? And do we not see scores of beds
in which some handsome Narcissus, like Sir Watkin, Emperor, or
Empress, is in association ? |
Before giving a number of varieties as amongst the best in
their several colours, it may, perhaps, be well to say that almost
without exception the single varieties are superior to the double
forms, as well for bedding as for cultivation in pots. In any
A BEAUTIFUL WHITE HYACINTH. 119
FIG. 42.—HYACINTH LA GRANDESSE.
(See page 120.)
| Single Hyacinths. |
Red and Rose Coloured.
| Cavaignac. Norma.
i
\ Fabiola. Queen of Hyacinths.
| Gertrude. *Robert Steiger.
| *Gigantea. *Roi des Belges.
| _L’Incomparable. Sultan’s Favourite.
Lord Macaulay. *Von Schiller.
120, PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Blue of Various Shades,
Argus.
Blondin.
Charles Dickens,
Czar Peter.
Grand Lilas.
*Grand Maitre.
*King of the Blacks,
*King of the Blues,
Leonidas.
*Lord Derby.
Masterpiece.
Pieneman.
White and Tinted.
Alba Maxima. L’Innocence.
Grand Vainqueur. *Madame van der Hoop,
*Grandeur & Merveille. Mont Blanc. |
King of the Whites. Mr. Plimsoll.
*La Franchise. Snowball.
*La Grandesse (seep.119). Voltaire.
Yellow Shades,
Bird of Paradise. *King of the Yellows,
*Ida, L’Or d’ Australie.
Double Hyacinths.
Red and Rose.
*Cardinal Wiseman. *Koh-i-Noor.
Grootvorst, Noble par Mérite.
Blue.
Bloksberg. *Laurens Koster.
Garrick, Van Speyk.
White.
Bouquet Royal. *La Tour d’Auvergne
La Virginité (early).
Prince of Waterloo.
Yellow.
, Bouquet d’Orange. Jaune Supréme.
Hyacinths for Bedding.
While one may, if one feels disposed, procure these under name,
the more general and perhaps more satisfactory way is to purchase
the bulbs under the designations of “crimson,” “rose,” “scarlet,”
“white,” or what not, as the bulb merchant invariably chooses
varieties that are in every respect suitable for the purpose.
Those
named are, however, of splendid quality.
Amy, crimson.
Charles Dickens, porce-
lain blue.
*Grand Maitre, deep
porcelain blue.
Grandeur a Merveille,
pale blush,
*King of the Blues, dark
blue,
*La Grandesse, pure
white.
Robert Steiger, scarlet.
*Von Schiller, rose, car-
mine stripe.
* These may be chosen where fewer varieties are wanted.
Hyacinths for Glasses.
In procuring Hyacinths for cultivation in glasses it 1s most
necessary that the merchant be informed of the object in view.
MINIATURE HYACINTHS. 121
Even when the varieties are specially named, the course is just as
imperative, as absolutely sound bulbs, of medium to large size,
and heavy for their size, are then chosen. In pot culture perfect
soundness is beyond question desirable, but in water growing it is
the chief essential to success. A few varieties, again, do not succeed
at all when put into glasses, and for these reasons the selection
| is almost invariably best left to the dealer, in the certain knowledge
that the best that can be done will be done.
Hyacinths for Forcing.
Directly one speaks of Hyacinths for forcing one’s mind irresistibly
pictures the most valuable of all, the Early White Roman. We have,
| it is true, the Italian varieties, which are also responsive to forcing
| treatment, but they pale into insignificance beside the Roman. The
| majority of the Dutch varieties can be accelerated in flowering with
_ perfect safety provided that only the gentlest forcing tactics are
| adopted, but they are never so satisfactory as when allowed to
_ advance quite naturally.
| The finest of the Dutch varieties for the purpose indicated is
_ probably the double white La Tour d’Auvergne, which will stand any
| reasonable amount of extra heat.
\ Miniature Hyacinths.
| In comparison with the typical Dutch Hyacinth, it 1s fair to say
_ that the miniatures are toys, and are not, therefore, worthy of serious
_ attention. For one purpose they no doubt have a substantial value,
| and that is for children, who, while small themselves, may prefer a
_ small rather than an adult bulb. This is a phase of bulb growing that
_ might well be accorded much greater encouragement, for the pro-
_ duction of really excellent miniature Hyacinths is well within the
' powers of the little ones, whose interest in flowers is beyond question
_ increased when they can watch the progress of their own nurselings.
_ The bulbs may be placed in water or soil, preferably the latter.
: The culture of Hyacinths is treated on in the opening chapters.
Chapter XXXVI.—Iris¢s.
WHOEVER the person may have been that gave the popular name of
“Poor Man’s Orchid” to the Iris family, he was certainly something
of a genius, for a more-fitting designation could not possibly be
conceived. Orchids are, speaking broadly, the flowers of the few, but
Trises are literally the flowers of the many, for judicious selection
will afford those that will grow anywhere.
Widely as they are grown at the present time, it were an
122 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
impossibility to plead too strongly for still further attention to be
devoted to them by all plant lovers. In far too many gardens at this
moment the only representative of the family is an aged clump of a
variety of I. Germanica, which, beautiful as it may be, does not
adequately uphold the honour of the genus. This, it will probably be
sald, is the case in small gardens only, and by no means gives a fair
FIG. 43.—IRIS IBERICA.
(See page 125.) —
idea of the state of affairs in a garden of pretension ; but even in
quite large places German and Spanish Irises are the sole members
of the race.
It may be asserted, with little or no fear of contradiction, that
the formation of an Iris garden would add a feature of interest to a
place which might be equalled, but certainly could not be excelled,
by a garden of any other kind of plants that one could mention.
More strikingly beautiful effects can easily be secured, of course, but,
SELECTIONS OF IRISES. 128
given sufficient room for the adoption of a comprehensive scheme,
where is the family that will give flowers absolutely from one end
of the year to the other? ?
The hypercritical person will perhaps say that there would be a
sameness in such a garden that would not be found with other plants,
but this is far from the actual fact of the case, for Irises differ
widely in habit, time of flowering, in size—both of stature of plant
_ and bloom—and in colours. True, there is no suspicion of gaudiness
about them ; they are flowers which essentially appeal to the refined
taste, and not at all to those who will not trouble to seek for the
beauty that is there.
Let a man once start an Iris garden, and he will quickly become
engrossed in its management, for the very fact that some sorts will
prove difficult to thoroughly establish will add zest to the hobby, and
insure never failing pleasure. There will be the lowly gem of 3 inches
in height, and the stately beauty whose flowers sway in the breeze
some 3 or 4 feet above the ground: And so it would be easy to
continue to extol the virtues of the Iris garden did space permit.
This family, it must be understood, is very large indeed, and the
number of species and varieties is enormous; they come well-nigh
from all quarters of the globe and from all climates, and demand
proportionately different treatment, so that considerable care must be
exercised in procuring the stock. The accompanying selections
contain representatives of each section, as well as varieties of several,
and if chosen in their entirety would form a splendid collection of
these most delightful plants. | !
With a view to facilitating the selection for the benefit of those
who only wish for one or two classes of Irises, the lists are made
as clear as possible by division.
Selections of Irises.
In each case where the colours are given that of the standard is
placed first, and that of the falls last ; markings are not included in
every instance. In the case of the enumeration of the varieties of I.
Germanica and others the colours are not always given, as they would
take up a lot of vaiuable space, but the varieties are in each instance
as distinct as possible.
Species of Lrises.
aphylla, lilac.
_ aurea, yellow.
Cretensis, lilac.
fetidissima, blue and lilac.
flavescens, yellow.
Florentina, white. Orris
root.
Germanica, many colours
(see selections).
graminea, lilac and purple.
Kempferi (see levigata).
_levigata, many colours (see
selections).
neglecta, lilac (see selec-
tions).
ochroleuca (gigantea).
Pseudacorus, yellow.
Water Flag.
pumila, lilac purple.
Sibirica, blue.
squalens, lilac and purple.
unguicularis, lilac and blue.
variegata, claret and
yellow.
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
124.
SECS LENS
~
NS SS
44,—-IRIS SOFARANA MAGNIFICA.
Ltd.
FIG.
‘0
C
{:
Cassi ll ri
hoto
,
I
9
(See page 1
SELECTIONS OF IRISES. 125
Cushion Irises.
Bismarckiana, blue and
yellow.
Korolkowii, white and red
brown.
Iberica, pale lilac and
purple brown (see p. 122).
Lortetii, cream and rose.
nigricans, purple, black,
and crimson.
paradoxa, white and blue.
Sofarana magnifica, stan-
dards grey, falls grey,
crest black purple (se
p. 124).
Susiana, brown, black, and
hilac.
tuberosa,purpleandyellow.
Urmiensis, primrose and
yellow.
Xiphion Irises.
alata, lilac and purgle.
Bakeriana, white, violet,
and blue.
Danfordie,
brown.
Histrio, lilac. —
orchioides, yellow.
Persica, yellow and lilac,
yellow and
reticulata, violet, purple,
and yellow.
Xiphioides, many colours.
English Iris (see selec-
tions).
Xiphium, many colours.
Spanish Iris (see ‘selec-
tions).
Selection of English Irises.
This section is a very valuable one, for. not only are the flowers
exceedingly handsome for garden adornment, but they are also of
particular utility for cutting purposes. There isa good diversity of
colours, and the varieties are well worthy of more attention.
Asmus.
Clara Butt.
Cleopatra.
Emperor.
Harlequin.
La Grandesse,
Lord Palmerston,
Lucinda.
Mont Blane,
Peacock.
Rosa Bonheur.
Vainqueur.
Selection of Spanish Irises.
These are amongst the most beautiful of all the members of the
family, and they are probably the most widely grown and appreciated,
if we except the varieties of Iris Germanica. They flower about
fifteen days in advance of the English sorts, and are quite as useful
for cutting —indeed, many persons prefer them, as they are even
more refined.
Garibaldi.
Avalanche,
California. Gold Spur.
Canary Bird. Jupiter.
Catherina, Lady Blanche.
Celestial. Snowball.
Chrysolora. Thunderbolt.
Selections of Iris levigata.
For many years this section was known in gardens under the name
of Iris Kempferi, but the plants did not attain to the popularity that
was anticipated. No doubt this is to be accounted for by the fact
that the earlier efforts in their cuitivation were not attended with
unqualified success, as their requirements were imperfectly under-
126 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
stood. Now they are rapidly advancing in esteem, and rightly so,. |
for where they will thrive they are of superb beauty. The flowers |
are frequently as much as 9 inches in diameter. They are usually
gold in named sets, the selection of the varieties resting with the
bulb merchant, but those enumerated will be found excellent.
Duplex.
Blue Jay.
Eclair.
Gold Bound.
- Mahogany.
Prince Camille de Rohan,
Robert Craig.
Single.
Apollo.
Blue Bird.
Exquisite.
Helen von Siebold.
Quakeress.
Snowbound.
Selections of Bearded Flag Irises.
Aphylia.
Bridesmaid.
Donna Maria.
Gazelle,
Madame Chereau.
Panormitana.
Sylphide.
Amend.
Calypso.
Duc de Nemours.
Herald.
Mrs. H. Darwin,
Sylvie.
Virginie.
Germanica.
alba.
atropurpurea.
grisea,
Kharput.
major.
Purple King.
Sarpedon.
Neglecta,
Cordelia.
Fairy Queen.
Garrick.
Neglecta—continued.
Hannibal.
Prince Arthur.
Shirley Hibberd,
Squalens.
Cleopatra.
Harrison Weir.
Lord Grey.
Madame Sontag.
Mozart.
Sir Walter Scott.
Pallida.
Celeste.
Cypriana.
Garibaldi.
Junonia.
Madame Pacquitte,
Queen of May.
Variegata,
Chénédolé.
Darius,
Innocence,
Liabaud.
Marjolin.
Sans Souci.
Selection of Beardless Flag Irises.
aurea laucheana.
cristata.
hematophylla.
Hartwegil.
Japonica (fimbriata),
Monnieri,
Monspur.
ochroleuca,
ruthenica,
Sibirica.
spuria A. W. Tait.
spuria Notha,
SELECTIONS OF IXIAS. 127
Chapter XXXVII.—Ixias.
Our southern friends have quite the best of it when Ixias, or
African Corn Lilies, are the subjects to be cultivated. We may
- all grow Ixias in pots, and charming plants they are for the
greenhouse or conservatory, but it is to Cornwall and Devon we
must go to see how well they can flourish out of doors when the
climate is suitable. In less favoured districts a sheltered position
and light soil may lead some reader to attempt Ixia culture,
and therefore a few details may prove valuable. October is a
good time to plant, and as these Cape bulbs are only half hardy
they must be put 4 inches deep. In addition to deep planting, it
will be necessary to give some protection, such as dry litter or
leaves spread over the bed to a depth of several inches. In very
severe weather a mat may be also used to further protect the
bulbs from frosts and heavy rains. In the spring all this material
must be removed, or the growth will be drawn and weak.
Experience proves that the best way to ripen the bulbs is to lift
them as soon as they have flowered, and lay them out, with a very
little soil over them, where the warmth of the sun will reach
them. Pot culture is the more popular, however, and as the
treatment found successful is as nearly as possible the same as
advised for Freesias, it need not be again detailed. I may state
that, for once in a way, early planting out of doors is not
advisable, because should there be mild weather during the early
part of the winter growth will push up and fall a prey to the
later frosts.
Selection of Izias.
Golden Drop, golden yel- speciosa (crateroides), scar-
low, maroon eye. let.
Gracchus, yellow, ruby Titus, yellow, black eye.
eye. viridifiora, green, very
Hortense, blue and purple. distinct.
Refulgens, yellow, brown Vulcan, rich crimson,
eye. Wonder, rose-pink,double,
Snowflake, white.
Chapter XXXVIII.—£achenalias,
THE fact of the matter is that Lachenalias, or Cape Cowslips, are not
taken seriously by the majority of amateur growers. So good
tempered are these South African bulbs that they flower fairly well
under even somewhat indifferent treatment. But we hear someone
asks, “Why bother any further, if the plants are naturally so
128 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
accommodating?” The only answer is to point to such finespecimens |
as Mr. Allen grows at Gunton Park, Norwich, or those cultivated at !
the Glasnevin Botanic Gardens at Dublin. If you have hitherto seen
nothing but mediocrity in Lachenalia culture, and are wishful to
discover the possibilities of these charming flowers, then let us
ask you as a personal favour to carefully follow out the course
of procedure here briefly stated, and you will presently be anxious
to shower blessings upon the advisers.
First of all, let it be said that the Lachenalias have small bulbs ;
their leaves are green, often spotted with purple; their spikes are
stout, rising from 6 inches to 1 foot in height, according to the
cultural skill attained by the grower and the habit of the species
or hybrid grown. Thus, pendula will not grow so high as Nelsoni
or tricolor, and neither is lkely to be as tall as violacea.
No plant objects to coddling more than the Lachenalia, but it
must always be kept out of the reach of frost. Hence, although
a cold frame could not be improved upon for the newly potted bulbs,
they must be taken into the greenhouse as soon as growth
commences, so that neither check nor harm comes to them. One
frequent and almost irrevocable mistake is made by both
professional and amateur cultivators; they delay the potting of the
bulbs too long. ‘This is a mistake, because by the middle of
August new roots have Lezun to form on bulbs wintered in the
soil in which they were grown the previous year, while stock
procured from the bulb dealer ought by this time to be in a position
to make new roots. It is useless venting your wrath upon the
bulb dealer, for he has no option but to send the goods as soon
as possible after they are ordered, and if this is delayed until mid-
autumn, when every other body is ordering, then there is likely to be
still further delay, and meantime the bulbs are not improving.
' Order in July, so that potting may be commenced early in
August. Remember that Lachenalias delight in plenty of fresh
air, but detest draughts ; they love a little warmth, but abhor much
fire heat; and though they must never suffer from drought while
growing, neither must water be given them at any and every
opportunity. Do not let your watering or thinking, as far as
Lachenalias are concerned, be done by proxy.
Do not imagine there are great difficulties to surmount in the
culture of these Liliaceous plants; it is rather a question of
“ stick-at-iveness.” Try 5-inch pots, as they will be quite large
enough in a general way ; provide ample drainage material, then fill
up the pots with a mixture of loam, leaf soil, and dried cow
manure, using 2 parts of the former to 1 part of each of the latter,
and adding a good sprinkling of sand ; place half a dozen bulbs into
each pot, make the soil firm around them, and leave them with their
tops just 4 inch below the surface. |
When you have a good stock of bulbs, some should be potted in
July and others at short intervals until the end of August, to permit
of as great an extension of the flowering season as_ possible ;
A SHLECTION OF LACHENALTAS. 129
=
this desirable end may also be secured in some measure by retarding
- some plants when thespikesappear. Give liquid cow manure twice a
week from the time the spikes begin to elongate until the flowers
commence to fade. By these means a display may be had from
February to May.
Directly the leaves commence to fade reduce the water supply,
and when they are yellow stand the pots in a cold frame where
all the sunshine possible will reach them, and so give the bulbs that
roasting without which they will not flower satisfactorily the
following year. Wire baskets lined with moss and planted both at
the top and sides offer a variation—and a very good one too—
from pot culture.
Selection of Lachenalias.
Nelsoni, golden yellow. violacea, white, violet,
pendula, purple, red, and and green,
yellow. There are several beauti-
tricolor, green, red, and ful hybrids and garden
yellow, varieties, but the fore-
going make a fine selec-
tion,
Chapter XXXIX.—Ceucoiums.,
It is quite incomprehensible, but none the less true, that among
fifty people who know a floral Snowdrop not more than ten will
be found who grow the floral Snowfiakes. Yet these Snowflakes,
or Leucojums, are equally as beautiful as their earlier flowering and
better known relatives the Snowdrops. We are free to confess to a
deep regard for the Snowflakes, chiefly because their beauties may
be enjoyed without the accompaniment of the topcoat, thick gloves,
and jack-boots so frequently necessary when we inspect our outdoor
Snowdrop blossoms. Snowflake is a pretty name, and there need be
no quarrel with its inventor, but Snowbell would have been more
appropriate and not less poetic. |
Snowflakes show to greatest advantage when planted in the rock
garden or among grass, but a few good clusters in the front of a
flower border must not be forgotten. With the exception of hyemale,
all the Leucojums are hardy, and hyemale only needs the protection
of a hand-light or frame. Being a stronger grower than the others,
estivum is the best for naturalisation in grass or woodland; it
also likes a somewhat retentive soil as compared with the sandy
loam most suitable for the others, whether it be in the open or
grown in pots. However grown, it is highly desirable the bulbs
be procured early in the autumn and at once planted not less than
1 inch or more than 2 inches deep.
vernum, white, with a estivum, white.
green spot at the tip hyemale, white, tender,
of each outer segment.
130 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Chapter X£.—CLiliums.
Lone, long ago, the garden folk decided that “the Rose the queen
of flowers should be,” but they forgot to find a title for the stately
and beautiful Lilies. Granted the Rose is queen, we are in
duty bound obliged to recognise her associate, the Lily, as the
empress of the flowers. Fascinating flowers are the Lilies—the
more so because they do not all exhibit their charms with equal
freedom in every garden. The wealthy may excel with auratum, the
Golden Rayed Lily, and with Henryi, or even the somewhat
fastidious Humboldti; but the wealth of bloom, purity, and
fragrance of candidum, the delightful Madonna Lily, may be
denied them, though it may be abundantly granted to the farm
labourer whose garden plot is on the same estate.
It is sometimes very diticult to give a reason why Liliums fail in
soils and positions where they may reasonably be expected to
thrive. From a gardener’s point of view there are three distinct
classes of Lilies, excluding those that are only suitable for cultivation
under glass, and it not infrequently happens that the likes and
dislikes of the various species are misunderstood or left out of
consideration by intending planters. -This is a fruitful source of
failure, as also is careless planting. According to the size of the bulb
and the height of the species, the depth at which it is placed should —
range from 3 inches to 10 inches. Other important points to be
observed at planting time are to put the bulb on a firm base and
surround it with sand. A firm base is necessary to prevent the
bulb from being “hung” when rain follows and the soil settles
down.
Not only the question of soil, but also that of height, must be
duly taken into account before planting is begun. Much time,
money, and patience are annually wasted in attempts to cultivate
Lilies that might be saved by the exercise of a little forethought
and care in the initial stages of work. Liliums range in stature
from the lowly forms of elegans and concolor, which often attain
a height of only 6 inches, up to the 10 feet or 15 feet attained by
the noble giganteum when it is well established in a place that
meets its requirements.
Shelter from cold winds, as well as from scorching sunshine, is
appreciated by Lilies; but this must not be taken to mean that
these handsome flowers grow well beneath the overhanging branches
of trees. They do nothing of the kind; but what they do love, or
at least the stronger growers, is a home among thinly planted shrubs,
:
HOW TO POT LILIUMS. 151
such as Rhododendrons, where the needful shelter is afforded
naturally in the spring time, and the bulbs and stem roots are
protected from the hot summer sun. The mention of stem roots
may here be taken advantage of to explain that many Liliums
not only root out from the base of the bulb, as do Daffodils and the
like, but also produce roots from the base of the ascending growth.
This peculiarity at once suggests that an annual top dressing of
leaf soil, or a ght, rich compost, will materially assist the plants.
Many of the best Lilies are magnificent pot plants, hence they
have long been popular for window culture, for the adornment of
the conservatory, and for the supply of Covent Garden and other
distributing centres for choice pot plants and cut flowers. Un-
questionably the best Lilies for pot culture are longiflorum, its
The smali figure illus-
trates deep potting, the
other top dressing.
‘tires
FIG. 45.—HOW TO POT LILIUMS.
variety Harrisii, both the red and white forms of speciosum (also
well known as lancifolium), auratum, and MHenryi. With the
advent of cold storage chambers, and their installation by some of.
the leading nurserymen, it is now possible to have Lilies in flower
over a very long period by starting retarded bulbs at intervals.
For the accommodation of Lilies it is desirable, though not
essential, that in relation to their diameter the pots should be
deeper than is usual. This permits the grower to take full advantage
of the stem roots in his endeavour to produce the best possible
crop of flowers; Nature and art may well combine to secure this
desirable end. Each pot must be provided with a perfect drainage
‘system, and over the crocks it is a good plan to place a layer of the
rougher portion of the compost: then add a layer of soil—consisting
of 4 parts of loam to 1 of leaf soil, with a little sand—and on
- this place the bulb firmly, surrounding it with a handful of sand,
‘and just covering the bulb with the compost. This will leave the
132 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
pot slightly more than half full, and allow sufficient space for a
top dressing when the stems have made some considerable progress
and are beginning to emit stem roots, as well as the usual ultimate
space for water.
Gladly would we omit any reference to diseases, but there are
some ills to which even a Lily is heir. Indeed, there are two diseases
that now and again attack Lilies, and it is better to be prepared
for them than to lull one’s self into a sense of false security. For
the fungus that all too frequently spoils fine clumps of candidum
the only remedy seems to be fiowers of sulphur; lift the diseased
bulbs directly the stems lie down, and place them in small bags
filled with the sulphur, leaving them so for several days before
planting them in new positions. Disease number two is a fungus
known to fungologists as Rhizopus necans, and to gardeners as the
auratum disease. It affects imported bulbs of auratum and
speciosum, and is probably induced by the rather rough treatment
received from the time of harvest in the Far East to the time they
reach the cultivator. Our leading mycologist, Mr. Massee, who
takes a paternal interest in fungi of all sorts, and is rather inclined
to think they should have a chance of existence instead of being
continually warred against, has recommended that bulbs for export
be given a twenty-minute bath in a1 per cent. solution of salicylic
acid. A light annual top dressing of kainit mixed with soil was
also recommended by Mr. Massee at the Lily Conference held at
Chiswick by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1901, as a remedy
for Lily mildew and other fungus troubles.
Selections of Liliums.
Selection of easily grown Lilies.
In this section are grouped together those Lilies that are the
least fastidious, and will thrive in any good garden soil.
candidum, white; Madonna speciosum, white, brown
Lily. spots; the finest forms
Chalcedonicum, _ scarlet ; are album novum, Kret-
Heldreichi is a fine form. zeri, Melpomene, and
croceum, orange; Orange rubrum.
Lily. testaceum, light yellow.
elegans, scarlet; many tigrinum, scarlet, brown
varieties, the best being
Alice Wilson, auranti-
acum, atrosanguineum,
spots; there is a good
double form, and For-
tunel and splendens are
Batemani, and Orange fine.
Queen. umbellatum, red; cloth
Hansoni, yellow. of gold, aurantiacum,
Henryi, yellow, brown grandiflorum, and
spots. Sappho are all desirable.
longiflorum, white ; Harrisi
and Takesima are good
varieties.
Martagon, purple ; Turk’s
Cap Lily.
concolor, orange yellow.
Dalhansoni, purple.
Marhan, orange _ red,
brown spots.
pomponium, red.
SE a ST
Sa a ata mess ame rt ag
RR TR
SELECTIONS OF LILIUMS. 133
Selection of loam-loving Lilies,
_ This set requires good, deep loam in which to do itself justice ;
but if the loam available is very heavy, strongly inclining to clay,
then leaf soil and sand may be used to lighten it.
auratum, white, golden giganteum, white; noblest
yellow, purple spots; of Lilies.
platyphyllum, = rubro- Humboldti, yellow, purple
vittatum, and Wattei spots; Bloomerianum is
are the finest forms of a bright form.
this golden-rayed Lily monadelphum, yellow.
of Japan. rubellum, deep Rose pink.
Browni, white, shaded japonicum (Krameri),
brown. rose.
Selection of peat-loving Lilies,
These all delight in a deep, moist peat, and if the soil is not
naturally suitable peat must be added to secure a fair measure of
SUCCESS.
Canadense, orange red, red pardalinum,orange scarlet,
spots ; numerous varie- crimson spots ; Bourgei,
ties, flavum and rubrum Californicum, and Mi-
being the best. chauxi are: very hand-
some.
Burbanki, apricot, orange.
superbum, orange, spotted
crimson purple.
Selection of tender Lilies.
All the following are tender, requiring such protection as a green-
house or a winter garden affords :
Nepalense, yellow, shaded sulphureum, sulphur. yel-
purple. low, shaded brown.
Neilgherrense, pale yellow. Wallichianum, white.
Philippinense, white.
Chapter X£1,—Montbretias,
Ir is the hybridist we have to thank for this group of graceful
and beautiful autumn flowers. Not so very long ago they were
non-existent, but when some far-sighted raiser took in hand the
original hybrid between Crocosmia aurea and Tritonia Pottsii he
obtained results that must have surpassed his most sanguine
expectations. By his efforts our gardens have been made the
more delightful and our homes the brighter during August and
September because of the elegant branching spikes of brilliant
flowers that are sold at so cheap a rate by florists of all grades.
In this volume both parents of the race are included, as the
habit and requirements of all are very similar. Montbretias are
134 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
quite hardy, but they are failures in some gardens, notably in those
where the soil is very dry or where the winter rains do not pass away
freely. Such failures would be obviated were beds of rich soil made >
up on a well drained site, and planting deferred until early sprirg.
Six inches is a good depth to plant. Wherever climate and circum-
stances admit planting is best done in the autumn; a little Bracken,
litter, or Heather laid on the bed keeps the bulbs perfectly safe, but
will not be necessary In many gardens. The growth of Montbretias
closely resembles that of a small Gladiolus, but the spikes are
branched, reach a height of about 2 feet, and beara profusion of
neat and brilliant blooms over a long period. Nor must the pot
culture of Montbretias be omitted, ora valuable conservatory plant
will be lost. Grown in the same way as Ixias and similar subjects,
but with five bulbs in each 6-inch pot, they provide a pleasing
decoration at a very small cost.
Selection of Montbretias.
Brilliant, orange scarlet.
crocosmiflora, scarlet,
orange, and yellow. A
hybrid between Crocos-
mia aurea and Tritonia
Pottsii.
Drap d’Or, chrome yellow,
large.
Etoile de Feu, vermilion,
lemon centre, red out-
- side.
Gerbe d’ Or, golden yellow,
splendid flowers.
Germania, orange yellow.
Pottsii, orange and scarlet ;
strictly a Tritonia, and
one of the parents of
garden Montbretias.
Rayon @’Or, rich yellow,
marked brown.
Soleil Couchant, golden
yellow, dwarf.
Solfaterre, bright yellow.
Chapter XE&IL-—IMRuscaris.
Iz is presumed that most readers have at some period of their
lives seen a few acres of Bluebells growing together, and have
thought that in its particular scheme of colour nothing could excel
such a display. But that thought only proves a lack of acquaintance
with some of the Muscaris, and notably with that exquisitely
beautiful one so appropriately named conicum Heavenly Blue. This
is so much the finest member of the genus that if only one can
be grown this should be chosen. If you have not seen $ acre
of this charming hardy bulb in full bloom about the same time
that Daffodils are aglow, or a hedge bank smothered with its
sturdy, clustering spikes of azure blooms, either of which you
may see at Barrs, or a bed of some early flowering shrub
carpeted with it, as at Kew, then you have missed one or more
of the most delightful sights the “merry spring” affords. It is
by no means an expensive subject, and when once established it
MUSCARIS AND NERINES. 135
may be. freely increased by the removal and transplantation of
offsets in early autumn, which is the proper time for lifting and
removal, when this is either necessary or desirable.
Taken as a class, the Muscaris are not at all particular as to
soul, though they appreciate a good sandy loam as well as most
things. As regards position they are equally accommodating ;
in addition to situations already indicated, they should tind a place
on the rockery, in the flower border, or among low grass. But
lest anything that has been said may frighten some bulb loving
brother, we hasten to add that if he cannot grow the Muscaris by
the 4 acre then by all means grow them by the half hundred, and
_ rather than not have any at all obtain half a dozen to start with,
for it is perfectly certain that, like Oliver Twist he will, within
a year, be asking for more. |
Lest any reader should be at all puzzled by the dissociation’
of popular names from scientific ones, let it be stated that the
Grape Hyacinth is botryoides; the Feather Hyacinth comosum
monstrosum ; the Musk Hyacinth moschatum (but it is too shy in
flowering to suit most folk), and the Starch Hyacinth racemosum.
Selection of Musearis.
f botryoides, blue. comosum, blue. ‘There is
conicum, deep blue. Several a rare white form of
varieties, of which the one this; monstrosum is a
| named Heavenly Blue is pretty and interesting
| by far the best variety. variety.
racemosum, dark blue.
WNarcissi, sce DAFFODILS.
Chapter XLIi.—Rerines,
ALTHOUGH there is a general agreement that Nerines, including
Guernsey Lilies, are easily grown, it is nevertheless a curious fact that
' while in some gardens they merely exist one may see splendidly
_ flowered specimens in the front window of a neighbouring cottage.
| The secret of success lies in the water pot. Water Nerines according
| to requirements when they are either flowering or producing and
maturing their leaves, but directly the leaves turn yellow withhold
water until flower spikes appear the following season. Nerines
are all too frequently killed by mistaken kindness. But once the
true principles underlying their successful culture are understood
and acted upon, then all is plain sailing. Directly a good batch
| of Nerines has been grown, the self-satisfied grower sets himself up
| as an authority and with affected superiority wonders why in th
| world any one fails with “such easily grown plants.” ;
| It is usual for,the bulb merchants to supply thoroughly matured
Nerine bulbs early in the autumn, and as these will soon come
136 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
into flower they must be potted as quickly as possible. Rich,
sandy loam forms an ideal material in which to place the bulbs,
but if the loam be heavy it may be lightened by the addition
of some leaf soil, while if it be poor add some thoroughly decom-
posed cow manure. Into 4-, 6-, 8-inch pots put one, two, or three
bulbs respectively, remembering always that Nerines do not like
to be over-potted. In this connection it may be added that the
larger pots are the best to use, as they permit the bulbs to
remain longer undisturbed. Give little water to newly potted
bulbs until root and leaf growth are alike active. Briefly stated,
Nerines are greenhouse plants, needing no water when leafless, but
slightly warmer conditions and a fair supply of moisture while
growing freely. Speaking broadly, the “dry season” is from
_May to August, and during that time the best place for the stock
of bulbs is the sunniest and airiest shelf in the greenhouse. Two
other points need mention: Weak liquid manure is beneficial to
established plants developing flower spikes, and a top-dressing
with some rich light soil should be given in the seasons when
potting is not essential.
Selection of Nerines.
flexuosa, pink. undulata, rosy carmine,
Fothergillii, vermilion Several beautiful hy-
scarlet. brids and _ varieties
Sarniensis, crimson scar- have been raised in
let. This is the recent years by Mr.
Guernsey Lily pro-
per, and corusca is a
fine orange scarlet
variety.
H. J. Elwes, of Coles-
bourne, but these are
not all yet in com-
merce,
Chapter XLIV.—Ornithoqalums.
In Ornithogalums we have a genus which, though numerically large,
is not represented by a great number of species in gardens. Several
are better suited to the wild garden than to the borders, while at
least one, Arabicum, is in every respect worthy of inclusion in all
collections of greenhouse plants. Others again, notably nutans,
should be relegated to the woods, where they will increase and multiply
enormously, and create a very striking effect. For the border the
one that is most commonly known as the Star of Bethlehem—
umbellatum—is the best, as its white flowers are always admired ;
it is also of considerable service for culture in pots.
Selection of Ornithogalums.
Arabicum, white, black greenhouse culture and
ovary, very handsome, is tall growing.
and deliciously per- lacteum, white.
fumed; this requires nutans, whitish green,
RANUNCULUS CULTURE. 137
Selection of Ornithogalums (continued).
Pyrenaicum, yellow and varieties, all thriving in
green. ‘the greenhouse,
thyrsoides, yellow ; several umbellatum, white; the
Star of Bethlehem,
Chapter XLV.—Ranunculuses,
THE Buttercup family has given us many fine garden plants, and
among these there are several that have tuberous roots. These do
well in the herbaceous border, but as a rule they are seen at their
best when planted in moist situations. The species now referred to
are aconitifolius, best known -by its double white form, popularly
called Bachelor's Buttons; amplexicaulis, white; cortusefolius,
yellow, makes a splendid greenhouse plant; Ficaria, yellow, and its
double form; Monspeliacus, yellow ; and parnassifolius, white.
As bulbous, or more correctly tuberous, rooted subjects, the genus
Ranunculus appeals to us most by reason of the variety and useful-
ness of the florists’ forms of Asiaticus. These are wonderfully free
flowering, and under favourable conditions, hereinafter particularised,
grow about 9 inches high and provide distinct colour effects. The
florists divide them into four sections, namely, French, Scottish,
Persian, and Turban varieties. The first are the most vigorous
growers, but are not so refined nor do they come always so double
as the Scottish and Persian sorts.. Turban MRanunculuses are -
hardier and hive a better constitution than the two last named,
and, though they have a tendency to sport, they are in many ways
more useful than the others.
An ideal soil for these gay old flowers is one composed of 2 parts
of good loam and 1 part each of decayed cow manure, leaf soil, and
sand ; but if this ideal is not realisable there is no need to despair so
long as a 2-feet depth of light, rich soil is available. The bed or plot
must be dug some time before planting, to allow the soil to settle.
October and February are variously stated as the correct time for
putting in the queer looking tubers, and both have staunch disciples.
We prefer the second month of the year, because autumn planted
tubers usually need protection and do not appear to give such
superior results as to compensate for the additional trouble taken
and risk incurred. At planting time, no matter which month is
chosen, draw drills 6 inches apart on the selected site, and 2 inches
deep ; sprinkle some sand in the drills, and then put in the tubers,
claws downward, 4 inches apart. Press them in firmly, just cover
them with sand, and fill up the drills with light soil. Those who
make a hobby of florists’ Ranunculuses place an awning over the
188 = PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
beds as soon as the flowers open, thereby preserving the blooms as
long as possible.
Selection of Ranunculuses.
French Varieties.
Abd-el-Kader, brownish
red,
Attraction, carmine.
Bessie M. Weimar, white,
shaded rose.
Emperor of China, yellow.
Excellent, carmine, edged
white.
Fairy Queen, white.
LL’ Etincelante, fiery red.
Pink Beauty, pink, edged
yellow.
Pucelle Aimable, purple,
on white ground.
Surprise, yellow and red.
Persian Varieties.
Bridesmaid, white.
Commodore Napier, citron,
edged purple.
Cramoisi a Cceur Vert,
crimson scarlet, green
centre.
Count Orloff,
edged rose.
Fire King, scarlet.
Jaune Supreme, yellow,
black centre.
King of the Netherlands,
black.
yellow,
Mont Blane, white, striped
rose.
Orange Brilliant, yellow,
orange, and black.
Queen Victoria, white,
spotted carmine.
Rose d’Hollande, carmine.
Sir William Penn, white,
edged carmine.
Turban Varieties.
Black, deep crimson.
Carmine, carmine.
Hercules, white.
Merveilleuse, orange yel-
low.
Romano, scarlet.
Seraphique, citron yellow.
Souci Dore, red brown.
viridiflora, green, edged
scarlet.
Scotch Varieties.
These are not often cata-
logued under names,
therefore it only need be
stated that-the prettily
spotted and edged varie-
ties are sold in mixture ;
if obtained from a re-
liable source they will
give every satisfaction.
Chapter X£VI.—Scillas.
TuHoucH of lowly stature, the Scillas, or Squills, must be included
among the most valuable of our early spring flowering bulbous
plants. Not all, however, are so dwarf and neat as the popular
Sibirica and bifolia : neither are they all spring flowering, for
Peruviana flowers in "May, Liho-hyacinthus is a summer bloomer,
and autumnalis flowers as late as August. All the sorts named
below are hardy, excepting Peruviana, which does not do itself
justice unless placed in a very warm border or given frame
-protection.
There is no need to make elaborate preparations for the
Scillas, as they are not at all fastidious about soil, but are soon
at home in all but the very worst of rooting mediums. They
appreciate soil that contains a good proportion of leaf mould, a
point that is at once evident to those who have carefully noted
the Southerners) flourishes.
A SELECTION OF SCILLAS. £439
the localities in which the common native Squill (the Bluebell of
Few more beautiful sights can be
seen. in this or any other country than a Beech wood or a Hazel
_copse carpeted for long distances with Bluebells during April or May.
Many of the Scillas are amenable to pot culture, and will
thrive if treated in the same way as Snowdrops are when required
for the adornment of the window, greenhouse, or conservatory.
In the garden Squills should be planted freely, either in small
beds by themselves, as an edging or carpeting to other spring
bulbs, or as a groundwork to deciduous shrubs.
Selection of Scillas.
bifolia, blue; several va-
rieties, notably alba,
rosea, Pink Beauty, and
White Queen.
festalis, blue; the Blue-
bell, of which there are
white and rose coloured
forms.
Hispanica, blue; also white,
rose, reddish, and striped
varieties. ;
Lilio-hyacinthus, blue and
purple.
Peruviana, lilac; alba and
Hughii are respectively
white and red tinted.
Sibirica, blue.
Chapter XLVII—Snowdrops.
THE poems that have been written in praise of the Snowdrop all
urge upon us its chaste purity and sweet refinement. It, however,
needed not the poets’ lays to tell us of its beauty, and of the
never-failing hearty welcome which awaits it in the spring as an
augury of the year’s awakening. In wood, copse, dell, and hedge-
row, in some parts of the country, Snowdrops grow in thousands,
os the ground is literally clothed with the pure white, fragrant
ooms.
In the semi-shaded corner of the rural garden Snowdrops flourish
splendidly, especially where the soil is of a fairly strong nature ;
but in small gardens it cannot be said for the Snowdrop that it is
an unqualified success, though in some it is apparently no trouble
at all to establish. Occasionally, where the more graceful single
Snowdrop will not grow, the double variety may be planted with
a fair hope of satisfactory results, |
The several species of Galanthus should be much more
extensively planted, as they are most beautiful in the spring and
summer, and provide a feature in gardens that no other plants,
bulbous or otherwise, can afford. Some of them resemble the
common Snowdrops in all except size, while others have exquisite
markings of soft yellow or yellowish green on the ground of
snowy whiteness. With increase in size many plants deteriorate
in refinement, but this is not the case with the large Snowdrops,
which are equal in this respect to the smaller sorts.
140 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
The Snowflakes, or, to speak quite correctly, the Leucojums,
bear a close resemblance to the Snowdrops, from which, however,
they are perfectly distinct, being larger in all their parts, and
having rather less of the true Snowdrop’s exquisite refinement,
They will be found dealt with under Leucojums.
Selection of Snowdrops, or Galanthus.
Elwesii, white, varies in and double. Some of
size. The varieties Whit- the best are imperati,
tallii and robustus are Octobrensis, flavescens,
- beautiful, ~ and Melvillei.
nivalis, the common Snow- plicatus, white. The Cri-
drop, of which there are mean Snowdrop is very
several forms in addition handsome.
to the ordinary single |
This is giving only the smallest selection, and there are, of
course, many others of decided merit, both in species and hybrids,
but those named will suffice, except in gardens where a speciality
is made of this family.
Chapter XEVIEE.—Sparaxis,
ONCE upon a time Sparaxis were quite popular, and there are signs
of a returning favour. Half hardy, like their allies the Ixias, these
natives of South Africa require similar conditions to induce them
to flower freely. They all make exquisite pot plants, and the little
trouble necessary to ensure a bright display is amply repaid in
April and May. With these, as with Ixias, some of the older
gardeners prefer to wait until February before planting in the
open, and this plan has much to recommend it, especially in the
less favoured districts. Where pot culture is followed the bulbs
are best potted in batches from September to December.
Selection of Sparazxis.
Fire King, scarlet and Queen Victoria, white,
black. yellow, and black.
Garibaldi, crimson and tricolor, orange and black.
maroon, Victor Emmanuel, red and
grandiflora, purple and yellow,
white,
Chapter XCIX,—Ciaridias.
Soper truth compels us to state that while the Tiger Flowers
are gorgeously beautiful they are not really hardy, and though they
may be successfully cultivated in a cool greenhouse, or even in a
cool frame, in a sunny position, the lovely flowers are so evanescent
TRITELEIAS AND TRITONIAS. 141
that one cannot conscientiously recommend them as greenhouse
subjects. Light sandy soil suits them whether they are grown in
pots or well drained, sunny borders.. In some southern gardens
a place may be found for them at the foot of a wall, in a position
like that advised for the Belladonna Lily. April is the month for
planting, and 3 inches is a sufficient depth for the bulbs. Dry
leaves make a suitable winter covering for Tigridias grown out
of doors.
Pavonia, orange, yellow, Pringlei, scarlet, orange,
and crimson. Numerous and crimson,
varieties, ranging from violacea, rosy purple, ten-
white to deep yellow. er.
Chapter £.—Criteleias.
RANGING from only 3 inches in aurea to 13 feet in laxa, these
Liliaceous plants are eminently suitable for such narrow warm
borders as are frequently to be found at the foot of a greenhouse
wall. The position must be a sunny one, and the soil light, if
the highest success is to be obtained. This advice is all the
more necessary because in wet winters the bulbs are very liable
to decay if the soil be heavy. Moreover, in a retentive soil the
bulbs do not ripen properly after the leaves have died down,
and consequently flowers are either absent or poor the following
season, provided the plant survives at all. Lifting and planting
must be done when the bulbs are quite at rest; the stronger
growers will naturally require a little more room than the dwarf
ones, but in all cases a depth of 3 inches will be ample.
aurea, yellow. uniflora, lilac.
laxa, blue.
Chapter £1—Critonias.
In this we have another genus of Cape bulbs, closely related
both to the Ixias and Sparaxis on the one hand and to the
Montbretias and Crocosmias on the other. ‘Tritonias are less hardy
than Ixias, and, except in the summer months, must have frame or
greenhouse protection ; in every other respect the advice given for
Ixias should be followed. Mixed varieties, as now supplied by
the leading bulb dealers, will meet the requirements of most folk,
but for those who desire named sorts the following is a good
selection :—
Bella, blush. Eleonore, buff.
crocata, orange. Laura, salmon. __
elegans, orange cerise. speciosa, orange scarlet.
142 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. |
Chapter L11.—Tropeolums.
THOSE great garden favourites the “ Nasturtrums” have, by reason
of their easy culture, variety of colouring, and widespread
popularity, pushed the majority of perennial Tropeolums out of
gardens. Several of the finest of these perennials have tuberous
or thickened rootstocks, and therefore they are here brought
under the broad category of “bulbs.” Propagation is generally
effected by division of the roots or by seeds sown in gentle heat
‘in the spring; several may also be increased by cuttings. Taken
as a class they favour a light sandy loam, but speciosum enjoys
moister conditions of soil and atmosphere than the others, and as
a consequence it grows with greater luxuriance and blooms with
a greater freedom in Scotland than in any other part of the
kingdom. It will succeed in the South, but as a rule it needs a
lot of coaxing, as does many another beauty. Sometimes the
grower tires of coaxing before the Flame Flower makes up its
mind to “be good”; then follows a season of comparative neglect,
and it may happen that, like a fickle woman, the plant sets out
to win back the affection it once scorned. When this occurs the
best thing to do is to do nothing, and if this lovely native of
Chili takes possession of a favourite tree or shrub and throws
over it a mantle of delicate greenery studded with jewels of
scarlet, then accept the gift of the gods with thankfulness.
On the other hand we have polyphyllum, also a Chilian plant,
but with totally different tastes from speciosum. It loves the
sunniest place in the garden, and if this also be the driest place
so much the better, provided there is a fair depth of soil. The
prostrate habit of this species makes it suitable for a rock garden
or for the adornment of a sunny bank.
Two of the selected species can only be regarded as half
hardy—these are tricolorum and tuberosum, and in dealing with
them it is a good plan to lift and store the roots away from
frost each winter. Both these, as well as Jarrattii and
pentaphyllum, pay for greenhouse culture. Rich sandy soil and
large well-drained pots will meet their needs, but they must be
provided with wires or a balloon trellis to climb upon. A bright
position, a good supply of water while in full growth, and an
absence of water during the resting season are points to be
observed by the grower of tuberous-rooted greenhouse Tropeolums.
Selection of Zropeolums.,
Jarrattii, orange scarlet speciosum, vermilion,
and yellowish brown. tricolorum, scarlet, yellow
pentaphyllum, greenish and black.
purple and scarlet. tuberosum, red and yellow.
polyphyllum, bright golden
yellow.
- SELECTIONS OF DUTCH TULIPS. 143
Chapter CU.—\_Tuberoses.
AFrricaN Tuberoses are purchasable in early autumn; they grow
taller than the American variety, which is seldom ready for distribu-
tion before December. In both cases the cultural requirements are
similar. Five- or 6-inch pots suffice for one bulb. Crock the pots
well, and pot firmly in a compost of 2 parts fibrous loam, 1 part
sifted decayed cow manure, and sand as needful. As it is highly
desirable no water be given until growth commences, the soil
must be fairly moist at potting time. Remember the Tuberose is
half hardy, and that, although it responds readily to forcing, strong
heat is only needed to obtain early flowers. A cold frame or pit will
afford sufficient protection for some time after potting, but frost must
be excluded, and it is safer to house the plants during winter.
Plunged where there is a bottom heat of from 60° to 70° Tuberoses
are quickly brought into bloom, provided they are well rooted and
have already started to grow.
Double African, white, The Pearl, white, double, tuberosa, white, single,
double, sweet scented, very fragrant, 3 feet. not nearly so much
5 feet, oe as the double
Oorms. :
Chapter £IV.—Culips.
CoUnTLEss thousands of the bright, attractive looking bulbs find their
way into this country from the sandy lands of Holland, and we
appreciate them. But we find pleasure in the fact that the bulb
productions of the Green Isle have no superiors.
Selections of Tulips. —
Selection of Single Duich Tulips for Bedding.
Arms of Leyden, white, Empress of India, rich *Proserpine,
rich rose,
striped rose,
Artus, scarlet.
Brutus, orange crimson.
orange,
Globe de Rigaud, dark
slate and white.
superb,
Queen of the Violets, pale
violet.
Canary Bird, yellow, Grace MJDarling, orange Rosa Mundi, rose purple.
early. scarlet. *Rose Gris-de-Lin, rose
*Chrysolora, yellow. *Joost van Vordel, crim- and white.
*Cottage Maid, rose, son rose, pencilled Royal Standard, white,
shaded white. white. pencilled rose.
Couleur Cardinal,richred. *Keizer’s Kroon, scarlet *Thomas Moore, orange.
Crimson King, scarlet and yellow; most *Van der Neer, violet
crimson. brilliant. purple.
*Duchesse de Parme, La Reine, white, tinged * Vermilion Brilliant,
orange red, edged rose. orange scarlet.
yellow. Pink Perfection, pink. Yellow Prince, fragrant,
*Dussart, deep crimson.
Pottebakker, scarlet,
Potter, violet red.
yellow.
*White Swan, white.
144 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWIN a.
The varieties included in the foregoing list flower almost simul-
taneously, and a grower may select those which meet his requirements
in regard to colour. The best twelve are marked with an asterisk.
Double Dutch Varieties.
Gloria Solis, reddish La Candeur, white. Tournesol, red and yellow
brown, edged yellow. Princess Alexandra, red, Tournesol, yellow.
Imperator rubrorum, margined yellow. Yellow Rose, yellow.
crimson scarlet.
| Tulips for Pots. .
Admiral Reinier, pink, *Hector, orange scarlet, * Ophir d’Or, golden
striped white. edged yellow. yellow.
*Bride of Haarlem, white, *Joost van Vondel, white. Pottebakker, white.
feathered crimson. King of the Yellows. Princess Helena, pure
*Cramoisie Superbe,cerise Koh-i-Noor, deep scarlet. white.
*Defiance, crimson, *La Riante, deep rose. * Queen of the Nether-
striped gold. La Belle Alliance, brilliant lands, rosy white.
*Fabiola, purple rose, scarlet. Rose Aplatie, rose and
feathered white. La Tendresse, soft rose. white.
*Goldfinch, pale yellow. *Le Matelas, white, Rouge Luisante, deep rose
Grand Duchess, pure _ flushed rose. pink. |
white. L’Immaculée, pure white. Van Berghem, rose pink.
*Maes, dazzling scarlet. :
In the case of the varieties mentioned as especially adapted for
pots the best are designated by an asterisk.
Tulips for Forcing.
Duc van Thol, red and yellow.
= crimson.
3 scarlet,
=A white.
- yellow
Variegated-leaved Tulips. :
Feu del’Empire, scarlet. Lac van Rhyn, rose violet, Yellow Prince, yellow.
Purple Crown, crimson. edged white. Yellow Rose, yellow.
Rex rubrorum, rosy crim-
son.
Darwin Tulips. =
These provide late flowers on very long stems, which have
substantial value for cutting purposes, as well as for the adornment of
the garden. If the bulbs are planted in clumps of about one dozen,
they look magnificent in May.
Clara Butt, soft salmon Mrs. Krelage, delicate Rev. H, Ewhbank, pale
rose, rose, broad, blush rose _ heliotrope.
Early Dawn, rosy violet, margin, Salmon King,salmon rose,
tinged blush. Pride of Haarlem, salmon Suzon, flesh rose, blue and
Glow, vermilion cerise., cerise, shaded scarlet. white centre.
Loveliness,warmrosepink Queen of Brilliants, deep The Sultan, maroon black.
Marguerite.exterior blush, salmon rose,
interior rose pink.
Selection of Tulip Species.
acuminata, red. Bilhetiana, yellow. elegans, red, yellow eye.
Australis, yellow,suffused Clusiana, white and red, Gesneriana, bright red.
red. black base. Greigii, brilliant orange
Batalinii, lemon yellow. Didieri, red, black blotch. _— scarlet; inconstant.
SELECTIONS OF FLORISTS’
Selection of Tulip Species (continued).
Kaufmanniana, white,
yellow, and red.
Kolpakowskiana, yellow
or scarlet.
Leichtlini,pink and white.
macrospeila, crimson,
black blotch.
oculus-solis, red, black
blotch, yellow edge.
primulina, yellow and red.
TULIPS. 145
saxatilis, purple and
mauve.
suaveolens, red and yel-
low.
sylvestris, yellow.
retroflexa, yellow. violacea, reddish mauve.
Florists’ Tulips.
These constitute the aristocracy of the Tulip family. In the
different varieties we may find the most exquisitely delicate colours,
as wellas hues that rival the Parrot flowers in the gorgecusness
of their beauty, and no matter to what extreme we go there is always
the very essence of refinement enveloping the flower. Whether the
variety belongs to the Bizarre, the Byblemen, or the Rose section, it
is sure to be of the same characteristically refined type. Let it not
be thought that all are of equal merit, for such is by no means the
case, but in the very choicest forms, such as are embodied in the
Libanotica, purple.
subjoined lists, all the best points are in conspicuous prominence.
Selections of Florists’ Tulips.
Colbert, fine for the gar-
den, but not for show.
Dr. Hardy, seldom seen
with feathering only.
General Grant, splendid
feathering.
George Hayward, fine for
the garden, too heavy
for show.
James Wild.
Lord Frederick Caven-
dish, inclined to be
heavy.
Adonis, fine light flamed
and feathered.
Bessie, good when light,
often heavy.
Duchess of Sutherland,
almost constant, finely
feathered and flamed.
Elizabeth Pegg, nice when
feathered, often smudgy
Friar Tuck, generally
good,
Aglaia, large, good for
the garden, often too
heavy for show.
Anastasia, good, often
too heavy for show,
ee
Bizarres.
Lord Lilford, good when
feathered, colour some-
times runs.
Lord Stanley, almost cop-
stant, generally finely
feathered and flamed.
Masterpiece, sometimes a
good feathered flower,
but generally smudgy ;
a favourite with ex-
hibitors.
Byhblemens,
Mrs. Jackson, fine for
the garden, not for
exhibition.
Mrs. Pickersgill, some-
times good, base rather
yellow, requires bleach-
ing.
Princess Royal (Queen of
May), fine for the
garden, too long for
show.
Roses.
Annie Macgregor, one of
the best, generally good
in both feathered and
flamed forms.
Sam Barlow, superb
sometimes feathered,
and at others feathered
and flamed.
Sir Joseph Paxton, an old
favourite, very showy,
and generally well
marked.
Sulphur, sometimes good,
sometimes smudgy, fine
for the garden, sweetly
scented,
Proserpine, finely
feathered.
Talisman, fine when well
broken.
Trip to Stockport, good
when light, often
smudgy.
Wedding Coat, almost
constantly feathered,
small, dwarf.
Comte de Vergennes,
usually feathered, and
fairly constant, not of
perfect form,
Heroine, good feathered
or flamed,
146 PICTORIAL
Industry, occasionally well
feathered,no use flamed.
Kate Connor, good for the
garden, too pointed for
show.
Dr. Hardy, rich Bizarre,
getting scarce.
Annie Macgregor,
cerise.
Goldfinder, finest scarlet
Bizarre.
James Wild, good Bizarre.
Industry, rich rose, not
good form.
Kate Connor, rose.
Lord Derby, rose crimson,
dazzling white base, fine
for the garden, not for
show.
TOSE
PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Roses (continued).
Mabel, fine both feathered
and flamed.
Modesty, good feathered,
often smudgy.
Mrs. Atkins, nicely feath-
ered, fairly constant.
Breeders,
Lady Constance
venor, lovely rose.
Mabel, fine soft rose.
Miss Foster, curious By-
blemen, flushed choco-
late and fawn.
Miss Hardy, good Byble-
men, lilac.
Rose Hill,
crimson
scarce.
Sam Barlow,
Bizarre.
Gros-
handsome
rose, getting
splendid
Mrs. Lee, good feathered,
fairly constant.
Sarah Headley,
finely feathered.
often
Sir Joseph Paxton, deep
chocolate brown Bizarre
Sulphur, fine Bizarre, very
fragrant.
Talisman, good Byble-
men, lilac with silvery
shade.
William Lea, rich black
maroon Bizarre.
Music, one of the best
Byblemeuns, Beeps, fine
form,
_ Parrot or Dragon Tulips.
The several varieties that come within the scope of this section
are remarkable for the gorgeousness of their flowers, which are
exceptionally large and of the most brillant hues. They are late
flowering, and are not usually at their best until the middle or the
end of May. The only fault of any moment is that of having
flowers too large for the strength of the stems, which renders it
somewhat difficult for the full beauty of the blooms to be appreciated
unless each one 1s accorded a small stake.
Café Brun, yellow and Markgraaf, yellow, scar- preciosa, dark red and
coffee.
Feu Brillant, scarlet.
lutea major, yellow.
let, and green.
perfecta, striped red and
yellow.
gold
Selection of May flowering Tulips.
Though all of these cannot be embodied in the foregoing sections,
they are so strikingly handsome that one can scarcely “afford to
exclude them from the garden.
much of the character of the Darwin section ;
assume that they are closely
Billietiana, yellow, shaded
red,
Billietiana Sunset, bright
red and yellow.
Bouton d’Or, = golden
yellow.
Buenoventura, orange,
gold striped.
They produce a flower which has
indeed, one may
allied to each other.
Dainty Maid, white, lilac Parisian Yellow, yellow.
markings.
Delia, carmine.
Gala Beauty, vermilion
and yellow.
Gesneriana, scarlet crim-
son (said to be the
parent of the Florists’
Tulips).
Picotee, white, margined
cerise.
Roy al White, cream.
Summer Beauty, lavender
rose,
VARIOUS BULBS. 147
Addenda.
Dielytra spectabilis.—Hardy, thriving best in warm, moist
localities, the Dielytra is a fine border plant. It does splendidly
in the Sister Isle and in Wales; in other parts of the country
it is equally valuable. For the decoration cf the conservatory in
early spring the Dielytra is invaluable, while for a fancy vase in
the drawing-room it is not easily surpassed, either for grace or
beauty, when well grown. Strong crowns lifted in autumn and
put in pots of the smallest size that will accommodate them can
be easily brought into flower, and as from 50° to 55° is all the
heat needed or advised this is essentially a plant for the amateur
to grow. Put the crowns in a compost of loam, peat, and leaf
soil, and stand them in a cold frame until they are wanted for
gentle forcing. Division of the crowns in spring is the best and
easiest method of increasing stock.
Galtonia candicans.— This is a very handsome bulbous
plant, whose tall spikes of creamy white bell-shaped flowers are
well-nigh indispensable in the border in August. Procure bulbs
and plant them 8 or 9 inches deep in any ordinary garden soil,
avoiding the use of fresh manure where possible, and when it
must be employed keeping it from actually touching the roots.
Offsets or seeds, the latter sown in gentle heat, form ready means
of increase. This plant is commonly grown under the name of
Hyacinthus candicans.
Lilies of the Valley.—Cold storage has worked many wonders,
and by its application to Lily of the Valley we are able to have
the beautiful fragrant bells all the year round. From June to
January, and even longer, the nurseryman will supply retarded
crowns, and by simply potting or boxing these, and placing them in
a temperature of 50° to 55°, excellent spikes are produced in from
three to four weeks. -Moist atmosphere and total darkness until the
spikes are well up are other essentials to good results. But the
whole matter is delightfully simple. Unretarded crowns continue
the supply, but these are more exacting, and need from 80° to
90° of heat to bring them along satisfactorily. Following these
come the clumps imported from Holland or Germany, and they
also require plenty of heat and moisture. Out of doors Lily
of the Valley is too often left severely alone. The position of the
selected plot may be right enough, but subsequent attention is
frequently conspicuous by its absence. <A partially shaded spot
and deeply worked soil, to which plenty of decayed manure and leaf
mould is added, will meet all requirements. Plant single crowns in
February or March, placing them 6 inches apart. Apply a good top-
dressing of decayed manure and leaf mould each antumn, and lift
and replant the bed every fourth or fifth year.
“48 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Scarborough Lily.—This is one of the most popular plants
in cultivation for windows, and some of the finest specimens are
to be seen in the cottages of the country. It produces brilliant
scarlet flowers in autumn and winter, and should be grown in
the best of loam, not being disturbed at the roots oftener than
is absolutely necessary. Deficiencies in the food supply con-
sequent upon being grown in the same pots for a considerable
period are made up for bythe use of liquid manure. Propagation
is easily effected by division. The botanical name is Vallota
purpurea.
Solomon’s Seal. — Polygonatum multiflorum is a common
plant it is true, and one that is a wilding in many parts of the
country, but “common” in the sense of weediness it is not. For
grace and elegance it is rarely surpassed, and it has a quiet beauty
essentially its own. Lift some of the thick spreading root stocks
in autumn, and pot them in any kind of light soil; plunge the pots
in ashes in a shaded spot and place over them a few inches of
cocoanut fibre refuse, and they will be ready when winter comes to
respond to gentle forcing. These are for the conservatory, but
others may be placed thickly in boxes to provide a beautiful addition
to the material available for filling the flower vases. In the open
afford the Sclomon’s Seal a partly shaded place, but it is not at
all fussy, and grows almost anywhere if the soil is moist. Divide
the roots to increase stock, and plant in October or November, or
else wait till March.
Spirea japonica may be treated similarly to DreLyrRras.
Sternbergias.—At one time practically the only member of
this genus to be found in gardens was that named lutea, but now
macrantha is coming to the fore. Both are autumn flowering
plants, producing rich yellow blooms that are identical with
Crocuses in appearance. The best soil is a light, sandy loam
containing lime rubble, and increase may be effected by offsets.
A sunny situation should be chosen.
Watsonias. — Plant the bulbs in a pit or frame having a
sunny aspect, and provide them with a mixture of sandy loam
and peat in the proportion of 2 parts of the former to 1 part of
the latter. Here they can be given all the shelter they need, and may
also be fully exposed, as weather permits, between the late spring
frosts and the earliest cold snap of autumn. Some protection in the
way of mats or dry Bracken will be advisable during severe frosts.
_ Zephyranthes.—Only one species of Zephyr flowers, candida,
is really hardy in this country, which is regrettable, as a goodly
number are worthy of cultivation had we but room for them
in our greenhouses. It blooms in the autumn, and when once
established produces an abundance of charming Crocus-like flowers.
Spring is the time to plant it, and the bulbs should be put 4 inches
deep. The greenhouse Zephyranthes flower in spring, and are
quite contented with the conditions provided for Lxias.
149
INDEX.
A
Achimenes, in baskets (Pictorial
Practice), 43; culture of, 42
Aconites, depth of planting (Pic-
torial Practice); 9; culture of, 42
Alliums, culture and selection of, 43
Alstrémerias, culture and selections,
44, 45
Amaryllises, cnlture and selection of,
45-48; from seeds (Pictorial Prac-
tice), 47
Anemones, depth of planting (Pictorial
Practice), 8; design for bed of
(Illustrated), 11; border of Japanese
(Iilustrated), 13; culture and selec-
tion of, 48, 49
Anomatheca cruenta, 42
Arum Lilies, culture and selection, 50
B
Babianas, depth of planting (Pictorial
Practice), 8; culture and selection
of, 50, 51
Beds and borders, bulbs in, 7-13
Begonias, culture, 51-57 ; propagating
| Bulbs, culture in beds,
Joseph Chamberlain (Zllustrated), 55;
selections of, 56°
Belladonna Lilies, depth of planting
(Pictorial Practice), 8; culture and
selection of, 57
Bluebellsin the woodland (Ldlustrated),
37
Bowls, bulbs in (Z/lustrated), 30, 31
Boxes, window, for bulbs (Pictorial
Practice), 33; planting and manage-
meut, 53-35
7-13; in
borders, 7-13; depth of planting
(Pictorial Practice), 8-9 ; in pots, 14-
26; sizes of pots for, 15; plunging,
16; feeding, 20; forcing, 22; liquid
manure for, 22; after flowering, 25;
staking (Illustrated), 26; in glasses,
27-29; in vases, 30; in bowls (Ldlus-
trated), 31; in window boxes (Zilus-
trated), 32-35; in the woodland
(Illustrated), 36-38 ; in grass, 39-41
C
Caladiums, culture and selection of,
58: how to propagate (Pictorial
Practice), 59
by cuttings (Pictorial Practice), 53 ;| Calochorti, culture and selection of,
Mabel Keevil -(Z/lustrated), 54 ; Mrs,
60, 61; splendens (Z/lustrated), 60
150
Cannas, culture and selection of, 61, 62;
Austria (Zllusirated), 63
Chionodoxas, culture and selection of,
64
Co'chicums, culture and selection of,
65; autumnale (Ldlustrated), 64
Composts, preparation of, 14
Crinums, culture and selection of, 65
66 |
Crocus, depth of planting (Jllustrated),
8 ; culture and selection of, 66, 67
~ Crown Smperials (Ll/ustrated), 105
Cyclamens, culture and selection of,
67, 68
D
Daffodils (see alsc Narcissi), classitica-
tion and selection, 69-85; how to
divide (Illustrated), 69; bulbs of
various sorts (Pictorial Practice), 72;
depths of planting (Pictorial Prac-
tice), 73, 74; rare and expensive, 84 ;
abundant and cheap, 84; for rocs
gardens, $4
a sana culture and selections of, 86-
100; . Eva (Iilustr ated), 87; Mrs. Castle
(Illustrated), 88; Island Queen (J7-
lustrated), 913; propagating by
division (Pictorial Practice), 93;
potting and planting (Pictorial
Practice), 94; grafting (Pictorial
Practice), 94 ; enemtes of, 100
Dielytra spectabilis, 147
Dog’s Tooth Violets (see Erythro-
niums)
10
Erythroniums, culture and selection of,
101
Eucharises,
101, 102
culture and selection of,
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
F
Freesias, culture and selection of, 102-
104 ; aurea (/l/ustrated), 103
Fritillarias, culture and selection of,
104, 105 :
G
Galanthus (see Snowdrops)
Galtonia candicans, 147
Gladioh, depth of planting (Pictorial
Practice), 9 ; culture and selections
of, 106-113; Gandavensis variety
(Illustrated), 108; Colvillei The Bride
(Ldlustrated), 110; shading and pro-
tecting (Jilustrated), 1113 lifting
and increasing (Pictorial Practice),
1125 planting young (Pictorial
Practice), 113
Glasses, bulbs in, 27, 28
Gloxinias, culture and selection of,
114, 115; collection of choice (Zdlus-
trated), 116
| Grass, bulbs in, 39-41
H
Hemerocallises, culture and selection
of Ity,
Hepaticas, culture and selection of,
117
Hyacinths, depth of planting (Pictorial
Practice), 9 ; Daisies and Primroses,
a bed of (Lllustrated), 11 ; how to pot
(Pictorial Practice), 17; Moreno
(Lllustrated), 213; how to s‘ake
(Illustrated), 26; Romanin a Bovril
bottle (Ld/ustrated), 292 a bowl of
(Illustrated), 831; selections of, 118-
121; La Grandesse (L/lustrated),
Bh,
INDEX. 15]
Li
O
Trises, depth of planting German (Pic- | Ornithogalums, culture and selection
torial Practice), 8 ; depth of planting
English (Pictorial Practice), 8;
depth of pianting Spanish (Pictorial
Practice), 8 ; selections of, 121-126;
Iberica (i/lustrated), 122; Sofarana
magnifica (I/dustrated), 124
Ixias, culture and selection of, 127
L
Lachenalias, culture and selection of,
127-129
Leucojums, culture and selection of,
129
Lilies,
Liles)
Lilies @f the Valley, 147
Lilium’, depth of planting (Pictorial
Practice), 9; culture and selections
of, 130-133; how to pot (Lllustrated),
131
Belladonna (see Belladonna
M
Montbretias, cuiture and selection of,
133, 134
Muscaris, culture and selection of, 134,
138
N
Narcissi (see also Daffodils), depth of
planting (Pictorial Practice), 8 ; how
to pot (Pictorial Practice), 19; Alma
(Idlustratea), 76; Cygnet (Illustrated),
77; Strongbow (Illustrated), 79;
poeticns ornatus (L/lustrated), 93
Nerines, culture and selection of,
‘138 |
of, 186, 137
P
Pots, bulbs in, 14-26
R
Ranunculuses, depth of planting (Pic-
torial Practice), 9; culture and
selections of, 137, 138
tichardia Africana, culture of, 40
8
Scarborough Lihes, 148
Scillas, culture and selection of, 138,
139
Snowdrops, depth of planting (Pictorial
Practice), 9; culture and selection
of, 139, 140
Soil for bulbs, 14
Solomon’s Seal, 148
Sparaxis, culture and selection of, 140
Spirea Japonica, 148
Sternbergias, 148
8
Tigridias, culture and selection of,
140, 141
Triteleias, culture and selection of,
141
Tritonias, culture and selection of, 141
Tropeolum, culture and selection of,
142
152 ‘PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING.
Tuberoses, cnlture and selection of, AE
143
Tulips, depth of planting (Pictorial | Watsonias, 148
Practice), 8 ; good pot cf (Zd’ustrated), | Window boxes (see Boxes, window)
23; selections of, 143-146 Woodland, bulbs in the (Lilustruted),
36-38
V
Z
Vallota purpurea, 148
Vases, bulbs in, 30 Zephyranthes, 148
SOu@OH@s
PRINTED BY CASSELL AND CompaNy, LimITED, LupGATE Hitt, Lonpon, E.C,
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