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{Cover 2. —
THE ROSE’S REQUEST:
‘Give thy Clay to Fertilize the Soil.” —Syvon.
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IS AN UNSURPASSED
FOOD FOR ROSES,
AND IS USED AND RECOMMENDED BY
LEADING ROSARIANS.
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See the Article on ROSES by H. C. PRINSEP in
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M
SUZANNE
ARIE RODOCANACHI
PICTORIAL
PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING
A CONCISE GUIDE
DESCRIBING THE PROPAGATION, PRUNING, AND GENERAL
CULTURE OF ROSES, BOTH OUT OF DOORS AND
UNDER GLASS
BY
WALTER P%,) WRIGHT, /
Horticulturai Superintendent under the Kent County Council
WITH NEARLY ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS
CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED
Lonpon, Paris, New York, Toronto anp MELBOURNE
MCMVII ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Ig LIBRARY
NEW YORK
BOTANICAL
he 7
LIN © fei
‘
, aad
A er Y
\\| ke
oy —_
Works by WALTER P. WRIGHT,
Beautiful Gardens.
Pictorial Practical Gardening,
Pictorial Practical Fruit Growing.
Pictorial Greenhouse Management.
Pictorial Practical Vegetable Growing.
Pictorial Practical Rose Growing.
Pictorial Practical Chrysanthemum Culture.
Pictorial Practical Carnation Growing.
School and Garden.
With Edward J. Castle.
Pictorial Practical Flower Gardening.
First Steps in Gardening.
Pictorial Practical Potato Growing.
With Wm, Dallimore.
Pictorial Practical Tree and Shrub Culture.
With Horace J. Wright.
Pictorial Practical Bulb Growing.
# A
Edited by WALTER P. WRIGHT.
Cassell’s Dictionary of Practical Gardening.
Cassell’s Popular Gardening.
The Gardener. A Weekly Journal.
CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, London, Paris,
New York, Toronto & Melbourne.
PREFACE.
——_—_ «4 ——
THERE are sO many books on Roses in existence that the only
excuses for writing another likely to find acceptance with the
public are (1) that it is a great deal better than existing ones, or
(2) very different in point of style.
To plead No. 1 would be the height of presumption, considering
the eminence of the several rosarians whose names are familiar as
writers, but with No. 2 I may stand a chance.
This book is one of a series (see opposite page) having as its chief
feature practical and pictorial illustration.
There were many books on fruit in existence before “ Pictorial
Practical Fruit Growing” was written, but it was fortunate enough
to find favour, largely, perhaps, on account of its distinct style.
The leading idea of the series was, and is, to put concise
illustrated directions in the place of long-winded verbal descrip-
tions, which often convey nothing.
I have ventured to call this horticultural instruction in tabloids.
“Pictorial Practical Rose Growing” simply applies to the most
popular flower of the garden a method of cultural elucidation
which has won success when brought to bear on the orchard, the
greenhouse, and the kitchen garden.
WALTER P. WRIGHT.
September. 1902.
CONTENTS.
Shel Aan
CHAPTER PAGE
IAN IMPRESSIONISM WITH A MORAL ; 5 - : 7
II.—A PRACTICAL PURVIEW . : : ratte - : 8
} III.—ABsout RosE GARDENS . : , : ; ; ‘ 9
IV.—DIFFERENT TYPES OF ROSES . 2 ; . : , 15
V.—How TO PROPAGATE ROSES . ° ange ‘ : 22
VI.—How TO PREPARE THE SOIL . ; 5 : : ° 28
VII.—How To PREPARE THE ROSES = = ° ° ‘ 34
VITI.—How -T0 PLANTS" 55S “et fe Sea
IX.—How TO PRUNE 5 ° e . . ° aoe 42
X.—THE ENEMIES OF ROSES. 3 : . : . - 76
oat Hoe TO EXHIBIT ROSES. : ° , . ‘ 85
XII.—Rosks 1n Ports. ° ° ‘ , ‘ ° . ° 94
XIII.—SECTIONS AND SELECTIONS . . . ° ° oO
XIV.—-INTERESTING FEATURES OF ROSE GARDENS. ‘ « t32
XV.—RosEs AS CuT FLOWERS. 5 ‘ Fi : e . 144
”
UCL £6 Wd
NEW YC
BOTANI
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE
GROWING.
Chapter 1.—An Impressionism, with a Moral.
Dawn!
Dawn of a June morning!
Dawn with the dew trembling on the shy grass, and the birds
crazy with the passion of life.
The Copper Beech at the garden gate has abandoned his
illicit alliance with the night shadows, and toys, hotly amorous,
with the first rays of the sun.
The Honey Locust tree facing the hall door shivers slightly,
and is still.
Tall Irises in the border, low Violas in the beds, a whole
gamut of floral voices in the temples of the rockwork, sing a
welcome. ;
It is the garden’s hour, for the world is still asleep. It is
the garden’s moment of womanly triumph, for it has you all its
own, with no worldly hardness in your eye—the softness of love
alone there.
It is the Rose’s hour. The colour in the morning sky is
heaven’s own imitation of earth’s fairest daughter. At the hour
of dawn all men start alike. You, I, are level with the greatest
exhibitor, for the world is not awake to parcel us out; to say of
this one, ‘‘ He is too fat to know of Roses, we will not listen to
him” ; of this, “ He is too lean.”
All who go into the Rose’s arbour before the world awakes
may woo her as they will. With whispered messages, that none
but she may hear? itis well. With uplifted voices, the thrill of
which strikes on other ears? it is still their right.
It is the Rose’s hour. Our fair lady has caught no tricks of
the world, and she bids all lovers enter, even if they have never
trimmed her into the showman’s shape. “Come,” says she,
“and sing my praises: all praise is sweet.”
GARDE
8 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
So we, children of the morning like herself, speak to her, and
of her, without fear. The world is still unborn. Rival ambi-
tions, conflicting interests, raucous clamour of wrongs done and
vEpuRAnee unrequited—these foul spectres of the battling day
are still.
If a window is thrown up, a night-capped head thrust angrily
out, and a fist, armed with an exhibiting tube, is shaken at us,
what matter? Tush! Tshoo! Shucks! A fig for the jealous
prize-winner who would peg out this fair preserve, and keep it
to himself! |
Weare here by right of love, to talk of the Rose, not as those
who have gained money and medals and silver cups by her, but
as those who have studied her intimately these many years—
who have had Roses in their gardens and in their hearts, not
merely in their pockets.
In our own circle we are at peace. Secure from the slings
and arrows of malice, with the flame of our affection burning as
a fire imperishable, we start our Rose ramble. 2
In our happy communings we shall see how we may get more
Roses in our gardens, how we may make their homes larger and °
healthier, how we may turn them to fresh and beautiful uses,
and how we may protect them from their lurking enemies.
Thus, having made two Roses grow where but one grew be-
fore, we shall have humbly imitated Him who doubled the
blades of grass, and watered them with the dew of love.
Chapter 2.—A Practical Purview.
ARE we going to have a Rose Garden, or Roses in the garden?
Here is a far-reaching question. Are we lords of ancestral acres,
are we South African magnates, have we a million-tons-a-year
trade in tea—then will we have a Rose Garden. Are we con-
fidential clerks, are we poor clergy, are we bank cashiers, are
we unbriefed barristers, are we sugar dealers in a small way—
then will we have Roses in our garden. |
And let us straight away recognise that it is in the latter
circumstances, and not in the former, that possibilities of Rose
distinction lie. Roses of prize-winning potentialities may be’
grown in our (millionaire’s) Rose Garden, but our head gardener
will stand sponsor for them at the show, and pocket the prize-
money which they win. Roses of prize-winning potentialities
may be grown in our (clerical) garden, and we—we ourselves-—
shall appropriate the glory and the spoil.
ROSE GARDENS. 9
In any case, the author’s position is plain enough. He is
millionaire and clerk by turns. In the former capacity he will
po out a complete Rose Garden; in the latter he will scheme
how to work in as many Roses among his other plants as space
will allow.
He will include in his purview the following types of
Roses :—
. The Standard Rose.
. The Dwarf Rose.
The Wall or Climbing Rose,
The Weeping Rose.
. The Pegged-down Rose.
The Pot Rose.
The Arch or Arbour Rose.
. The Exhibition Rose.
He will prove that each (and all if wished) can be grown in
the ordinary garden; and he will show how the various forms
may be blended together in one harmonious whole—the Rose
Garden proper. 7
There would be incompleteness in the purview were soils
and manures, planting and pruning, propagating and training,
otting and showing, varieties and enemies, excluded from it.
These also, therefore, must have their share of attention.
In short, the sculpture of our goddess is going to be com-
plete. We are not going to leave her, like the Venus of Milo
which we go into ecstasies over in the Louvre, armless. Nor is
she going to be, like the Queen of Spain, without legs!
OD ST OT 09 tO ps
Chapter 3.—About Rose Gardens.
Tue Rose Garden of modern days is planned to give harbourage
to Roses of varied forms. It is often a roomy place, well pro-
tected by belts of shrubs or trees. Its walks are perhaps arched
at the entrance, and converge upon a central space, wherein
may be a bed, or a capacious water-basin, surrounded by a
low wall, which offers an inviting seat in hot weather.
There is, perhaps, a series of short pergolas, clad with Roses,
near the centre. In their absence there are arches.
There are pillars, or tree stems, up which Roses clamber.
_ There are beds, and groups of beds. The leading idea is to
give up separate beds to each variety, so arranging them that
the beds, as a whole, blend together
10 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
FIG. 1—PLAN OF ROSE GARDEN.—I.
Scales: A—F, 1 inch equals 32 feet ; G—L, 1 inch equals 16 feet.
A, centre, four plants of Crimson Rambler, some growths forming a
pillar (see section G at f), and others trained to arches. The other side
of the arches is formed of Gloire de Dijon : a, Roses; 8, arches.
B, standard Hybrid Perpetuals. If 2 feet apart, about fifty-four plants will
be wanted for both beds. The central plants should have 4 feet, the
middle row 3 feet, and the outside row 2 feet high stems. (See K.) -
C, dwarf Teas and Hybrid Teas. If 2 feet apart, about fifty-four plants
will be required for both beds. (See L.)
D, dwarf Hybrid Perpetuals. At 2 feet apart about 145 plants will be
needed for both beds, (See L.)
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K, pillar, Glory of Cheshunt. (See H at h.)
F, arch or festoon, Aimée Vibert, Cheshunt Hybrid, Gloire de Dijon, Jaune
Desprez, Longworth Rambler, Reine Marie Henriette, and Waltham
Climbers Nos. a. 2, and 3. (See Tat k,and J at 0.).
G, section through ‘centre : ec, beds; d, Grass ; e, arches; f, pillar post of
central bed plants. .
H, section of pillar bed (E): g, bed; A, pillar; i, Grass,
I, section of arch beds: 7, beds; %, arch; 7, Grass.
J, section of festoon beds: m, beds; », "poles similar to the pillar; 0, gal-
vanised wire rope or wire rope black varnished ; p, Grass,
K, standard Rose, L, dwarf Rose,
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A PLAN OF A ROSE GARDEN.
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12 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
There is an abundance of rambling and pillar Roses—sprawl-
ing fellows, with great long arms of blossom.
The modern Rose Garden owes much to the influence of
Dean Hole. In his early Rose-growing days almost uncon-
querable in the show tent, the famous rosarian gave consider-
able attention, after his retirement from the arena, to the use
of the Rose as a garden flower. His work and influence in this
direction are likely to live when the memory of his show
triumphs has passed away. More than one exquisite garden
stands as a living monument to his skill and breadth of taste.
As acase in point, the beautiful Rose Garden of Lady Falmouth,
at Mereworth Castle, Kent, may be quoted. There are seen
beds on turf, each planted wholly with one variety, the varieties
comprising Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Perpetuals. There are
arches, some covered with Crimson Rambler and its beautiful
daughters Thalia, Aglaia, and Euphrosyne, others clad in glitter-
ing streamers of Longworth Rambler and Paul’s Carmine Pillar.
The plan (Fig. 1) shown on page 10 is a Rose Garden of the
modern type. It is small, and, on that account, may suit the
requirements of people whose means are limited. In addition
to the plants, there will be an expense for arches and pillars.
The most lasting form of arch is one of galvanised wire, painted
with one coat of white-lead paint. The pillars may consist of
Larch or Ash poles. In Hop-growing districts it is often possible
to buy a few stout poles ready “pickled” from a friendly
farmer. They should be 10 or 12 feet long, and 5 or 6 inches
through at the base. If an arrangement cannot be made with a
Hop grower, it will be necessary to peel and creosote the poles,
or paint them with Stockholm tar thinned with petroleum.
ig. 2 (page 11) shows another design, a litéle smaller, but
equally complete. Fig. 3 (page 13) shows a medium-sized
garden, complete with its sheltering banks of trees, and Fig. 4
(p. 14) a fourth, with some variation in the form of the beds.
The series of plans here given, with the table of references
contiguous to each, will afford suggestions to those who wish
to have a complete Rose home, whether small or large ; but it
would be regrettable if other people were frightened away from
Rose-growing owing to lack of space and means for carrying out
the ideas suggested. Houses have walls, gardens often have
fences ; arches and poles for pillars are cheap ; beds can easily
be prepared. However small the garden, a few Roses can be
grown, and pleasure in bounteous store derived from them.
FIG. 3.—PLAN OF ROSE GARDEN ON GRASS AND SURROUNDINGS.—III. |
Scale: 1 inch equals 32 feet.
A. centre, four plants of red Climbing Teas, forming a pillar, and arched
over so as to form half of four arches, selected from Waltham Climbers
Nos. 1, 2, and 3, Reine Olga de Wurtemberg, Reine Marie Henriette,
and Cheshunt Hybrid: a, pink Climbing Teas, Princess May, Madame
Bérard, Climbing La France, and Madame Alfred Carriére, forming half
A PLAN OF A ROSE GARDEN. 13
(References to Fig. 3, continued from page 12.)
of the central arches (four) ; 4, yellow Climbing Teas, Gloire de Dijon
and Gustave Regis, Noisette, Jaune Desprez, and Aimée Vibert (white),
two plants of each forming the respective arches; ¢, arches,
B, Teas and Hybrid Teas, standards, ranging from 4 fect at the centre to
2 feet at the side of the beds; or dwarfs,
C, Hybrid Perpetuals, standards or dwarfs.
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and Noisette Roses,
F, pillars. G, standards. H, gravel paths,
I, a Yew hedge, not allowed to exceed 6 feet in height, or a greater width at
‘the base than 18 inches.
J, Rose bays or Rhododendrons and Azaleas, with Liliums in the spaces.
K, Yucca gloriosa recurvifolia.
L, groups of Conifers brought round to the paths, so as to break the wind
Only 4 feet is allowed -between the beds, but 6 feet is better.
14 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
FIG. 4.—PLAN OF ROSE GARDEN.—IV.
Scale: 1 inch equals 32 feet.
A, bower: a, central pillar with seat round; 4, arch pillars, up which are
trained climbing Roses, continued over the skeleton roof.
B, Teas and Hybrid Teas, dwarfs, fifteen or sixteen to each bed, the outer
rows 2 feet from the edge, the plants 3 feet apart.
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C, Hybrid Perpetuals, dwarfs. If planted 2 feet from the edge of the bed
and 3 feet apart, 62 plants will be wanted to each bed. When planted
as dotted more are got in, but the results are not so satisfactory.
D, Climbing Teas or Hybrid Climbing Teas with dwarf Hybrid Teas:
¢, pillars; d, arches with a place for a seat ; ¢, dwarfs.
MANETTI AND DE LA GRIFFERAIE STOCKS. 15
Chapter 4.—Different Cypes of Roses.
It will perhaps be useful to make a few remarks on the various
classes of Roses. People are puzzled by such terms as “ Tea,”
“ Hybrid Tea,” “ Noisette,” “ Manetti,” “standard,” and “ cut-
back.”
Some of the terms used in connection with Roses refer to the
habit of the plant, others to the section into which it has been
placed, and others, again, to the stock on which it has been
‘worked ” (z.e. budded or grafted).
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS
FIG. 5.—_STOCKS FOR ROSES.—I. MANETTI AND DE LA GRIFFERAIE.
A, one year old plant of Manetti from a cutting inserted the previous autumn:
a, portion of the stem from which the buds were cut clean out; 3, the
base of the stem cut previously below a joint, transversely, where a
callus is formed and roots are emitted ; c, the surface of the soil, indi-
cating the depth at which the cutting was inserted ; d, a strong, descending
root, termed a tap root; ¢, side or lateral roots, usually more fibrous than
the descending root; f, growth or shoots from above the ground: g,
point where a bud is inserted in the summer after inserting the cutting
16 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
1. The habit.—The terms almost explain themselves. Thus,
a “standard ” Rose is a Rose worked on to the top shoots of a
tall, clean stem. A dwarf is a Rose worked close to the ground,
the branches forming alow bush. A climbing Rose is a Rose of
strong, rambling habit. It is not a true climber, like Ampelopsis
Veitchii, because it does not throw out growths, the special
mission of which is to attach themselves to a wall, as that
popular plant does, but the term will serve. A weeping Rose
is a Rose so influenced by pruning as to turn its branches
towards the ground. All these types are shown in figures in this
book.
2. Sections.—Garden and exhibition Roses have been classi-
fied into various sections for convenience. They are descendants
of various species of the great genus Rosa, which belongs to
the important natural order of the Rosacez. Some of these
species are grown under garden names. ‘Thus in Rosa bracteata
we have the Macartney Rose, in Rosa canina the Dog Rose, in
Rosa centifolia the Cabbage Rose, in Rosa centifolia muscosa
(Continuation of references to Fig. 5, page 15.)
in order to establish a Rose on the stock ; 4, point of shortening the
strong root if the piant is lifted in the autumn after budding ; i, points
of cutting the top growth close in; j, point of cutting the stock back to
the bud when this has started into growth.
Characteristics of the Manetti stock: abundant branching roots with many
fibres, free growth, early and late, hence may be budded during
September, on it Hybrid Perpetuals succeed admirably, adaptability
to either light or strong soils, shoots moderately stout, very spiny,
spines closely set, thin and very sharp, leaf composed of about thirteen
leaflets, the plant forming a spreading, diffuse bush.
C, one year old plant of De la Grifferaie Rose (Cluster class, Rosa multiflora)
from a cutting inserted the previous autumn: », stem from which buds
have been cut out; 0, depth of inserting in the soil; p, strong descending
root ; g, stout and rather long side roots; 7, relatively short and fibrous
roots; s, strong top growths; ¢, point of shortening the descending
root; “, point of shortening the side roots to induce fibres to form near
the stem; v, point of budding.
D, two year old plants of De la Grifferaie, showing the result of shortening
the strong roots: w, descending stronger root, which in planting should
be spread out nearly horizontally ; x, stout side roots, also to be spread
semi-horizontally at planting ; y, fibrous roots carefully preserved at plant-
ing, result a much branched fibrous formation near the stem; z, point
where a shoot was cut off close to a stem; a, growth from a shoot
shortened at planting to two buds; 4, depth of planting; ¢, point of
budding or grafting.
Characteristics of De la Grifferaie: Strong, extended root formation, both —
deep and wide, very vigorous habit, shoots strong, joints rather distant,
the shoots often growing 10 feet or more in length in one season, very
long and strong spines, distantly placed as compared with the Manetti,
foliage fine, leaf usually composed of seven leaflets, much larger than the
Manetti.
CUTTING BRIERS. 17
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 6.—STOCKS FOR ROSES.—II. CUTTING BRIER.
E, one year old plant of common Brier or Dog Rose of the hedges
(Rosa canina) from a cutting of one year’ old, thoroughly ripened
wood: d, the portion of the stem from which buds were carefully
removed ; ¢, base; f, depth at which the cutting was placed in the
soil; g, a strong root which has taken a straight down course; h,
vigorous roots inclined to a downward course; 1, short fibrous
roots; 7, strong shoots from the buds left in the cutting above
ground; *%, point of inserting a bud in the stem, as sometimes
practised for leas, Hybrid Teas, and other Roses to ensure growth
from the scion if the tops happen to be cut to the ground by frost;
i, point of cutting off the top of the stock when the scion is grow-
ing; m, points of inserting buds for dwarf plants; , points of
cutting off the shoots of the stocks when the scions are growing;
0, points of shortening the roots at transplanting.
F, two years plant of Brier from a cutting: p, points at which the
first year’s shoots were cut back to one bud each; q, straight down
root bent into a semi-horizontal position; 7, side roots shortened
at planting; s, point of budding below ground; ¢, points of bud-
ding on young shoots ; w, point of cutting back when the stock
is worked below the ground; », points of shortening when the
| stock is budded above ground ; w, depth of planting.
18 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
the Moss Rose, in Rosa damascena (held by many botanists to
pe a hybrid between Rosa canina and Rosa gallica, but- kept up
as a good species by Kew) the damask Rose, in Rosa indica
the China or Monthly Rose, in Rosa indica borbonieca the Bour-
bon Rose, in Rosa lutea the Austrian Brier, in Rosa repens
hybrida the Ayrshire Rose, in Rosa rebiginosa the Sweet Brier
or Eglantine, in Rose rugosa the Japanese Rose, in Rosa
sempervirens the Evergreen Rose, and so on. In addi-
tion to these, however, there are the great sections
Hybrid Perpetuals, Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes. . (a) Hy-
brid Perpetual Roses are varieties resulting from the inter-
crossing of hybrids of Chinese and Bourbon with Rosa damascena
hybrids. The exact order is not known. They should bloom
twice a year, in early summer and in autumn. (b) Tea Roses
are so called because of their tea scent. They bear the general
name of Rosa indica odorata. They are more truly perpetual
than the Hybrid Perpetuals, inasmuch as they bloom con-
tinuously under good culture. For the most part the flowers are
smaller and more symmetrical than the Hybrid Perpetuals,
(References to Fig. 7, page 19.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS,
FIG. 7—_STOCKS FOR ROSES.—III. SEEDLING BRIER.
G, one year old plant of seedling Brier or Dog Rose (Rosa canina): @, the
radicle or descending axis developed into a tap root; y, the lateral or
side root; z, the collar or point of junction of the descending axis (root
stem) and the ascending axis (stem above ground) where buds are forming
which, unless removed, develop into strong growths; a, the central growth ;
b, the side growths or Jateral shoots.
H. a two years old transplanted seedling Brier: e, the tap root transformed
into a spreading root by being shortened to about 6 inches from the ©
collar at the time of transplanting, and being bent to a nearly horizontal
position; d, the side roots spread out semi-horizontally at planting,
thus securing a fibrous development near the stem and surface of the
ground; e, the collar or point from which buds (little reddish knobs)
were cut off at planting: f, the top of the plant, which has extended and
pushed side shoots; g, point of budding, always at the collar, it having
been found by experience that the stock does not thicken equally when
the junction of stock and scion is below ground.
I, two years old seedling Brier planted the previous autumn, when the seedling
had only one weak shoot and a straight down descending tap root with
a few lateral or side fibres. In planting, a’trench is taken out by line, and
the plant placed against the bank, with the radical or tap root bent hori-
zontally, hence the roots are all on one side: #, the root formation ; 4,
the root stem; j, the collar; %, the central growth; 7, the shoots which
have sprung from the collar ; m, the point of budding when below ground,
to which practice some still adhere.
One of the characteristics of the seedling Brier is a vigorous root growth,
as compared with top growth in the first, and even second year. A
fibrous root formation is promoted by shortening the tap root at
SEEDLING BRIERS. 19
(Continuation of references from page 18.)
the time of transplanting the seedlings, which is done when they are
a year old, or the first year after sowing; in the following season
they are ready for working. The root system increases in vigour
as the years roll by, and thus accords with the development of the
head of the Rose, It is the stock par excellence for ‘Teas and Hybrid
Teas, and is also good for Hybrid Perpetuals, and is not nearly so prone
to suckering as the cutting Brier and stock collected from the hedge-
rows
20 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSH GROWING.
while there is a preponderance of light colours. Varieties with
the deep, glowing colours of the Hybrid Perpetuals are rare.
(c) Hybrid eas are for the most part an entirely modern race of
cross-breds. They are increasing in numbers and_ popularity:
(d) Noisettes have descended from a hybrid between Rosa indica
ap Rosa moschata. They bear their flowers in bunches as a
rule.
These are the principal sections.
3. The stocks.—Roses are sometimes spoken of as (1) “ Manet-
tis,” or “on the Manetti”; (2) “seedling Briers,” or “on the
(References to Fig. 8, page 21.)
J, a straight, clean-stemmed Brier or Dog Rose (Rosa canina) as taken from
a hedgerow, prepared, and planted: , stem; 0, a slanting cut at the
desired height for a standard, made just above a joint or promising bud ;
p, the jagged end of the underground stem or root; g, part,of the under-
ground root or stolon; 7, a fibrous root, the only one on the stock; s,
the point of cutting off the end of the jagged rootstem ; ¢, the point
of detaching the stoloniferous root; «, round reddish knobs on the
underground stem, which, unless cut off carefully, would develop into
suckers; v, the depth of planting.
K, the stock J in the autumn after a year’s growth and working: w, roots
which have pushed from the rootstem cut; 2, roots from the rootstem ;
y, the underground portion of the stem free from suckers ; z, the stem
from which all growths have been rubbed off, except in the case of the
two uppermost joints, while quite small; a, vigorous shoots, which were
shortened after the buds were inserted; 6, Rose buds, which have
‘‘taken”’; ¢, the points of cutting off the Brier shoots.
L, a Brier with a knob-like rootstem and side branches: d, the rootstock; ¢,
fibrous roots ; f, a clean cut below the rootstock, where a callus usually
forms and roots are emitted; g, the point where a stoloniferous root-
- stem has been cut off ; 4, a shoct produced just above the ground from a
stem cut off close; i, the side shoots cut close to the stem, but leaving
the basal buds; 7, the top cut off to a point where side growths are
desired to issue; 4, the depth of planting.
M.a Brier trimmed and planted: /, the curled rootstock; m, the strong
roots shortened ; ”, the fibrous roots, which are carefully retained ; 0, a
portion of the stem from which buds have been removed ; p, the depth
of inserting in the soil; g, the top properly cut off at the desired height.
N, a Brier stock showing the different and usual heights of standards: 7, 4
feet; s, 3 feet; t, 2 feet; w, 1 foot—the dotted outlines indicating the
respective growths for budding in due course.
O, a Brier, trimmed and planted for a 1-foot standard, with the outer stock
notched to induce rootlets close to the upright stem: v, the part from
which buds have been carefully cut off; w, the notches.
P, the result of notching the rootstock : 2, fibres; y, top growths.
The hedgerow Brier is the only stock so far found suitable for Roses as
standards. ‘The characteristics of the Dog Rose are a vigorous giowth,
with very stout curved downward spines, great hardiness, strong and
relatively few roots, more disposed to extend than to form fibres, and
still more to produce stoloniferous underground stems and push suckers.
21
HEDGEROW BRIERS.
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 8.—_STOCKS FOR ROSES.—IV. BRIERS FROM HEDGEROWS.
(For references, see page 20.)
22 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
seedling Brier”; (3) “cutting Briers,” or “on the cutting
Brier” ; (4) “ Grifferaies,” or “on the Grifferaie” ; (5) “ own-
root.” The first four terms indicate the stocks on to which the
Roses are worked. A ‘‘Manetti Rose” is a Rose worked on to
a Manetti stock (see Fig. 5, p. 15) This stock, which was raised by
Signor Manetti, of the Botanic Gardens, Milan, is not quite so
popular as it was soon after its introduction some 60 years ago.
Most Roses take well on it, but it is not lasting. Brier stocks
are extensively used, especially for Teas. Where standards are
wanted, Briers are taken out of the hedges in autumn (see Fig.
8, p. 21). For dwarfs, it is customary to work on cultivated stocks,
raised either from seeds (see Fig 7, p. 19) or cuttings (see Fig. 6, p. 17).
The De la Grifferaie stock (see Fig. 5, p. 15) is growing in favour on
account of its hardiness and vigour. Most climbers do well on it, par-
ticularly Maréchal Niel.
Stocks sometimes overgrow the Roses they ought to support.
Foliage with seven, nine, or more leaflets is probably Manetti or
Brier, not Rose.
“Own-root” Roses are trees raised from cuttings of their
own wood.
The terms “maiden” and “ cutback” are also used in con-
nection with Roses. They may apply to any class of stock, be-
cause a “maiden” Rose is simply a one year old plant, and a
“ cutback” a tree which has passed its first year and been
pruned.
With this preliminary explanation, and the illustrations
which accompany it, the way is cleared for a chat about pro-
pagation.
Chapter 5.—Bow to Propagate Roses.
WE have learned what Rose stocks are, and may now turn to a
consideration of the ways and means of getting Roses on them.
In the first place, “ catch your hare.” This may not be very
easy. Amateurs and gardeners rarely bud or graft Roses except
on to Briers from the hedges, for the simple, but sufficient,
reason thai they have nothing else to work them on to. The
cultivation of Manetti, De la Grifferaie, and Cutting and Seed-
ling Briers is practically confined to the trade.
This sounds rather like damping newly awakened ardour,
COLLECTING BRIERS FOR BUDDING. 23
but things are really not so bad as they seem. It is easy to
gather Brier heps, “ stratify ” them (that is, lay them in sand for
a few months) and raise plants from them. It is not difficult to
strike cuttings of Briers (we shall come to cutting-making very
soon) and procure plants from them also. It is quite within the
bounds of possibility to get shoots of Manetti and De la
Grifferaie, and turn them into workable material. All this, I
say, canbedone. If I am asked whether it is worth while, since
Roses ready established on the stocks can be bought so cheaply,
I am given pause. Truth to tell, the commonsense of the Rose-
growing community has decided that it is not. Some few Rose
growers like to propagate stocks of various sorts, and do their
own working ; most prefer to buy the plants. It is a matter of
temperament.
If, however, the raising of Rose stocks from seeds and cut-
tings is to all intents and purposes left in the hands of the
nurserymen, it by no means follows that Rose propagation is
not worth learning. It is well to know how to strike cuttings,
because many Roses do well on their own roots. It is still
better to know how to bud, because every rosarian works, or
wants to work, a few hedgerow Briers some time or other.
The man or woman who wants to bud some standards has the
impulse, as a rule, when the twin influences of the flowering
season and other people’s work are upon them. That is to say,
in July or August. Unfortunately, they awaken simultaneously
to the fact that they have no Briers, and, what is worse, will
have to wait till November for them, so that there is the dreary
prospect of a whole year’s delay before budding can be begun.
f course, with people of the blow-hot-blow-cold class the in-
evitable happens. Long before November comes the Briers are
forgotten, and it is July of the following year before another
thought is given to them.
The best thing is to go and give an order for Briers to the
acknowledged Brier hunter of the district directly the fever is
felt. This forager is generally a well-known character, and I am
at a loss to know how the novelist has missed him. He (the
forager, not the novelist, of course) has exceptional gifts in tres-
passing and stealing, and people whose consciences will not
permit them to appropriate portions of their neighbours’ hedges
find these qualities of his peculiarly helpful. .It may be re-
marked, by the way, as a singular phenomenon tonnected with
horticultural morality, that many people whose principles will
not allow of their making a foray in person are ever ready to pay
the Brier-hunter a shilling a dozen for his wares, and ask no
questions.
Fig. 8 (page 21)shows the stamp of material the Brier buyer
or collector wants to get, and also how to deal with it—in part.
Let us follow the standard up. It is procured, prepared, and
planted in November. In spring fresh growth starts. In July
24 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
or August (a showery period in either month will do) it is ready
for budding.
The number of buds to put in must depend, naturally, on the
number of suitable branches on the top of the Brier stem. If
there are four, five, or six shoots as thick as a lead pencil, more
or less, four, five, or six buds may be inserted, one in each.
Beginners often put the buds in near the tips of the branches:
this is wrong. They must be inserted as close to the base as
they can be got. After a wet spell there is no trouble in pre-
paring the branches, because, with a free flow of sap, the bark
rises readily. The sharp edge of a knife should be pressed
through the bark about 14 inches from the base, at right angles
with the branch. Then the point of the knife should be pressed
into the bark at the very base, and drawn up the centre of the
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG 9.-HOW TO BUD ROSES.
A, growing shoot : a, b, buds; ce, bud removed; d, bud with pith; e, com.
mencing to remove the pith; f, bud ready.
B, stock : g, transverse cut; 4, longitudinal cut; i, bud inserted.
HOW TO BUD ROSES. 25
shoot until it enters the cross cut first made. If a proper bud-
ding-knife with a flat handle is used, it can now be reversed,
and the bark raised at both sides by running the bone along be-
neath the cut edges. .
There are two salient points connected with the buds. One
is to keep them fresh ; the other is to get out the wood without
pulling the growing germ away with it. A little variation in the
size of the bud, or in the time of budding, is nothing serious ;
but these points are vital. Beginners should always cut the
buds out rather long. Suppose that a healthy summer shoot as
thick asa small cigarette is taken. One inch above aleaf gently
slide the sharp edge of a knife through the bark, and draw it
down underneath the leaf, about half-way through the shoot,
bringing it up 1 inch below the leaf, and then slicing off with ita
tail of bark. Crop off the leaf, except for 4 inch of stump, turn the bud
cut face upward, and twist the “tail ” round one finger, holding
it firmly with another. Drawing back this “ tail” will cause the
wood to rise, so that it can be grasped between the finger and
thumb and pulled out. If the small green germ, not much bigger
than a pin’s head, which lies in the hollow of the bud, comes out
with the wood, leaving nothing but a mere shell of bark, throw
the bud away and get another. With practice, it will be found
that the bud can be so manipulated as to get the wood away
without pulling forth the germ. When that art is mastered, the
principal stumbling block is removed.
Keeping the buds fresh is simple. As fast as they are pre-
pared they should be dropped into a vessel of water, and directly
enough are ready to bud a few of the standards, get it done.
Insert each bud, see that the edges of the bark evenly overlap
it, and then bind the whole gently but firmly round from top to
bottom with soft worsted.
It can very soon be seen if the buds are not going to take,
for they will begin to shrivel. If they remain fresh they will
grow, but if they remain dormant all the winter so much the
better. When they start in spring, cut back the Brier shoots,
_ leaving only a stump a few inches long to tie the young Rose
shoots to as they develop. At the end of the first growing
season the stumps may be cut away, and the standard is a Brier
no longer, but a full-fledged Rose. Fig 9(p. 24), shows a growing shoot
oe for yielding buds, the buds, and their insertion in the
shoots.
Propagation by cuttings presents no serious difficulties.
Ripe, brownish pieces of the current years growth, 8 or
9 inches long, with a piece of the older wood, termed a “ heel,”’
at the base, are suitable, and they should be prepared and in-
serted in September. It is well to put them in deeply, say,
two-thirds of their length, and make the soil firm. Should the
frost heave them up in winter, tread the soil back again directly
it scftens. I have rarely seen better Roses of any class than the
26 PIUTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
fe eg
th 4
We
al
=
Gh
Zep
Mies
ANS
Zhe S
Z|
TICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 10._SELECTION OF WOOD FOR ROSE CUTTINGS.
(For references, see foot of page 27.)
as ¢* ‘ole
PROPAGATING ROSES BY CUTTINGS. 27
own-root plants raised by the well-known Kentish exhibitor, the
Rev. J. R. Buchanan, of Herne. He is particularly successful
with Teas. Among these, Madame Lambard, Hon. Edith Gif-
ford, Innocente Pirola, and Souvenir d’Elise Vardon do wonder-
fully well. Some varieties make good plants in a year, others
in two years. Tig. 10 shows the kind of shoot to choose for
cuttings, and Fig. 11 the cuttings inserted.
The grafting of Roses is so rarely practised out of nurseries,
and withal is so simple, that it is scarcely necessary to deal with
it at length, or to ‘illustrate it. Seedling Briers just starting
growth in small pots make the best stocks, and in the winter or
early spring, with a close propagating case having bottom heat
at command, there is no trouble. The scion should consist of a
yee
San Stans HN at CLR GS
PICTORIAL PRACTICE,—PLAIN HINYS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 11.—HOW TO INSERT ROSE CUTTINGS.
A, a, b, c, cuttings; d, soil.
stout piece of firm, ripe Rose wood with a leaf. A slice may be
taken out of the side of the stock, and the scion cut to fit the
space. Then the two surfaces should be fitted together and
tied. Covering with wax or clay is not necessary. They should
Co shaded, and dewed over frequently, until a union has taken
place.
(References to Fig. 10, page 26.)
A, current year’s shoot: a, tip, too soft; 4, middle, good if ripe and firm;
e, better still, may be taken with a heel (@) of older wood (e),
B, branch with side growths fand g, the latter taken off with a heel—both
will do; 4, too stumpy.
28 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Chapter 6.—Bow fo Prepare the Soil.
Aut soils will not grow Roses equally well, but most kinds may
be made to yield satisfactory results.
There is comfort in this dictum. In particular, it cheers the
heart of the man who has heard so much about clay for Roses.
and has no clay within a hundred miles of him.
Emphatically all soils will not grow Roses equally well, and
it is honest and prudent to recognise the truth. But, on the
other hand, it is foolish to abandon the idea of growing Roses
just because the soil in the garden is not of exactly the same
texture as that of our all-conquering friend Mr. Silvercups.
There are not many golfers whose clubs are such magical
weapons that every stroke off the tee lands the ball on the
green, where a second stroke invariably puts it down—the
round in 36, so please you! The average golfer does this only
in his dreams ; 1n his playaday hours he plods round in 180 or
thereabouts. |
It is nice to muse over imaginary triumphs on the Rose
links—how, if we did happen to have that beautiful clayey soil
which Silvercups possesses, at once substantial and silky,
mellow and moist, his achievements in the show tent would
pale before ours. Already our sideboard groans under the
weight of the trophies we have won with that soil—the soil
which we never see except in the still night hours. We bow
acknowledgments and murmur thanks when congratulations
pour in—only to be prodded, and bidden not to snore.
The awakening need not bring despair. After all, Koses
will do on ordinary soil, if they are looked after, and cultivated,
and loved. The soil at Kew is not wonderfully substantial,
rather is it on the light side ; yet Roses thrive there, and some
of the ‘‘ garden” varieties—which, remember, are amongst the
most beautiful of all—even luxuriate. If the worst came to
the worst, if the soil was little better than sand, there might
still be Roses, for the rampant, huge-stemmed Rosa rugosa will
succeed on the lightest of land.
The great essential is cultivation—the soil trenched and
tumbled and manured, trees well planted and pruned. The
stiff soil will not grow Roses well if it is not prepared. First as
to drainage. If the soilis clay on a level, it ought to be drained.
Hideous “ought”! Draining is troublesome, expensive, and
above all “messy.” Nobody likes to see clay-smeared labourers
flinging heaps of sticky soil about the place, and cutting zigzags
as though making entrenchments for an army. The temptation
FOR ROSES.
SOIL
PREPARING
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30 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING. .
to do without it is strong, yet land that lics waterlogged for
several months of the year is not good for Roses. _
If the ground is under turf, one of two courses may be taken
-—_the turf may be cut off and rolled for stacking, to come in for
‘potting material a few months afterwards ; or, 1f better material
is available for this purpose, it may be chopped up and incor-
porated with the soil.
In any case, the top soil must be taken off and the next spit
stirred. It is better still to remove two spits and turn over the
third. Place the different spits back in the same positions as
they occupied at first, and spread manure between them.
A soil on gravel is so far better that it will not require to be
drained if on the level, but there its superiority ends. Such
soils are frequently so light that it becomes advisable to add
clay, if clay is procurable without a ruinous expenditure. If
the upper strata are sandy, clay is particularly desirable for the
planting layer. Mixed with decayed yard manure, it will add
substance as well as fertility.
Many growers who have very stiff land to deal with burn the
surface soil. This is an admirable plan, but naturally it entails
expense. Ridging and liming will disintegrate it more cheaply.
The soil should be ridged and well dressea with mortar rubbish
in autumn, then late in winter manured and dug.
In dealing with a poor chalky soil, it is almost obligatory to
go in for thorough measures and make capacious “ pockets ”
for the Roses. The natural soil should be removed to a depth
of at least 2 feet, and a mixture of turfy loam and yard manure
substituted, 2 parts of the former to 1 part of the latter, with a
sprinkling of mortar rubbish for preference.
Trenching and manuring soil raise its level. A piece of
ground that has two spits shifted, and the third turned over,
and which, moreover, has had additions of manure and mortar
rubbish made to it, will be nearly 1 foot above its former level
when the work is finished. It 1s, as might be expected, very
loose, and a walking-stick pressed in will easily penetrate its
entire length. Considerable settling must be expected, and
should be allowed for in the planting.
Here, then, in a few words, is the commonsense of soil pre-
paration for Roses—stiff soil drained, ridged, limed, manured,
and pulverised; light soil thickened with clay and stable
manure.
The earlier in autumn the task can be tackled the better.
There is the more time to get it done, and the more help from
the elements. It is not necessary to plant immediately. Order
the Roses early, of course, to ensure getting good stuff, but
if the bed is not ready when they come, practise no undue haste.
Lay the Roses in by the heels and go on with the soil prepara-
tion—-steadily, deliberately, thoroughly.
- 3)
PREPARING SOIL FOR ROSES.
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PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
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PREPARING SOIL FOR ROSES.
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34 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSH GROWING.
Chapter 7.—Bow to Prepare the Roses.
THE Roses are here, the ground is ready. No longer is the
. Rose grower a navvy; he has become an artist.
With a complacent eye he surveys the bed. which is swollen
like a boa constrictor after a heavy meal. With a snarp knife
in hand he picks up the first Rose.
Reader, have you tasted the joy of that moment? If not,
make haste to do so. If you read this in the autumn, pass on
to the chapter giving selections, sit down, make out your list,
post it, and then take up the book again to read what I am
going to say about planting.
If you read it in the winter, do likewise, but give the nursery-
man a little latitude about the varieties, because he may have
sold out of some of them.
If you read it in the spring, visit the nursery if you can, and
pick your plants from the best of those left. Allow a wider
margin for substitutes if you post the order.
If you read it in summer, try and see the Roses that I shall
presently chat about, either at a show, or in a garden, and so
strike up a personal acquaintance, that will ripen into a warm
friendship, or even a deep attachment, later on.
All these stages centre on one thing—that proud, exalted,
glorious moment when you stand in the garden, tree and knife
in fist, ready to trim and plant.
The hint given above as to substitutes tells of one reason why
it is wise to order early. The Rose planting season is like the
wait for refreshments of the limited mail—there are always a
great many people tumbling over each other to be first served.
When you read that a wait of twenty minutes is allowed for
breakfast, you settle down comfortably. How often have you
looked sleepily at a watch, got out of bed, tubbed, shaved,
dressed, breakfasted, and caught a train in eighteen minutes! ©
Of course, there is no hurry. But when the groaning express
slows up, and everybody except yourself flies off and crowds the
tables, and the rolls have run out by the time you saunter up,
things look different.
The Rose planting season extends from October to April—
say six months. Well, when one has half the whole year to
plant one’s Roses, why any unseemly haste? Why not proceed
with dignified deliberation—think about it in October, fill up
the inkpot in November, look for a stamp in December, send for
a catalogue in January, lose it in February, write and abuse the
nurseryman for not sending it in March, and finally get the
th ie Oo
PREPARING ROSES FOR PLANTING. 35
Roses in April? A comfortable, stage-coach, London-to-
Brighton-in-fifteen-hours mode of progression, in short. _
Alas! there is that hustling, hungry crowd of early birds
to think about. If you do not allow for them, your chance is
one. Substituting saves the situation in a measure, but in my
umble experience as a Rose buyer the sorts the nurseryman
picks to take the place of those which he has sold out are
invariably varieties which you have. If you have none at all,
the substitutes are certain to be Roses you do not care about.
I cannot explain this phenomenon ; I can only state it.
For my own part, the particular substitutes which have
oured down on me ever since [ began to buy Roses are Marie
—oscation and Madame Lambard. I have received enough of
these to set up a nursery with them. I have been peppered
with them, pelted with them, bombarded with them. I have
written imploringly at the foot of an order: “If you can’t sup-
ly anything, don’t substitute with Marie Baumann or Madame
ambard,” and the first variety which has appeared when the
unpacking begins is always one of this pair. I love Marie
Baumann, I love Madame Lambard. I have been constant to
Marie Baumann ever since I saw her first, in the days before
even my teens began. I have been faithful to Madame Lam-
bard from the day that Lacharme sent her out—yes, more than
twenty long years ago. But now—dare I confess it?—these
sweet and lovely ladies grow superfluous. I am prepared to
love single spies (so long as they are feminine), but not whole
battalions.
Ordering early is therefore good, because it gives you a
reasonable chance of getting what you want. Another advan-
tage that might be claimed is that you get better plants. There
is a tradition that the nurseryman hunts over his quarters and
picks out the very best plants for the earliest customers. I may
make a modest claim to know a little about nurseries, having
spent many happy years in them, but I have never seen this
going on. However, if the dealer does not search about for the
best trees for his early orders, he certainly passes over the worst.
There are a few poor plants in every drift, which he does not
mean to sell, but when the end of the season comes, and the
rows are very thin, and the customer is very peremptory about
having no substitutes, and the workman who is sent for the
plant has his ear strained to meet the imminent melody of the
dinner bell—then things happen.
The Roses have reached us, and reached us early. If the
ground is ready for them, we trim and plant. If it is not, we
“heel them in” until the bed is fit for their reception. All
things considered, November planting is the best, but there is
not much in it. I would rather plant in March in a properly
prepared bed than in November in a poor one. Roses “ heeled
in ”—that is, laid in a shallow trench, roots covered with soil,
-
36 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
their tops clear, but convenient for covering in hard weather,
are perfectly safe. It might be argued that if they cannot be
lanted early they may as well stay in the nursery, at some-
ody else’s risk than yours, till spring. I used to look at it in
that way myself until I had reached my hundred with Marie
Baumann and Madame Lambard!
Late October or early November planting is very good,
because (1) there is warmth left in the soil, and the trees are
quite likely to make root before winter; (2) there is generally
time to do the work thoroughly.
Whatever the period of planting, however good the quality
of the trees, a little trimming is likely to be necessary. And
that is why—man being naturally a cutthroat—the grower feels
such a glow of delight when he finds himself with a bundle of
Roses beside him and a sharp knife gripped tightly in his dexter
paw. If there is a tap root going nearly straight down it had
better be shortened, and any and every root that is torn, or
broken, or jagged, or is in any way whatever an imperfect root,
should be cut back.
It is not a case for indiscriminate hacking, but for intelligent
curtailment. Unless a root is very strong and straggly, there
is no necessity for cutting more than the injured part away ;
directly clean, healthy wood is come to the pruner should hold
his hand.
If I might venture to just mention my own modus
operandi in this matter of preparing Roses for planting, I should
do so as follows: First of all, I talk (apparently aimlessly) at
the breakfast table about the wonderful quality of the new
trees, and the astonishing crop of flowers which they are lhkely
to produce. This secures me the ardent sympathy of the pre-
siding genius of the coffee-pot, and the pick of all the old gioves
in the house. I select something pretty tough for my left hand,
but have my right hand only lghtly covered.
Taking up a Rose tree with my left hand, and gripping it
firmiy by the stem, I poise it, and run my eyes over root and
branch as searchingly, as deliberately, as fondly as a connoisseur
surveys his uplifted glass of wine. It is not a mere casual
glance, remember. It is a soul-stirring, epoch-making survey.
As the lover gazes on his inamorata when he discovers her in
the conservatory with her last partner, so I gaze on my Rose—
adoringly, jealously, appealingly, threateningly—love and
menace and exquisite pain all commingled.
This examination tells me all I want to know about my Rose.
I have, so to say, got its balance. Seeing what it is, I also see
if it is what I want it to be. A bit of dead root is seen here—
it is snipped off ; a broken piece shows there—it goes likewise.
No clean, healthy, unbroken root is ever touched, unless, per-
chance, it is a roystering fellow, threatening to get away into
the lower regions of the earth ; then it is trimmed hack,
PREPARING ROSES FOR PLANTING. 37
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS,
FIG. 16.—PLANTING ROSES.—I.
A, a one year old dwarf Hybrid Perpetual lifted and prepared for
planting : a, shoot from the central eye of the bud inserted in the
previous season (sometimes the only growth); 4, shoots from the
buds at the sides of the central one (not always present) ; ¢, junc-
tion of stock and scion ; d, strong downward root, usually termed
the tap root, from the base of the stock ; e, the side roots; f, points
where roots have been damaged in lifting, packing, transit, or
: SERS LN ; ES oS
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careless unpacking; g, point of shortening the tap root to cause
it to produce roots laterally; 2, points of shortening the side
roots in order to cause fibres to push near the stem.
B, the plant A a year older, showing the result of cutting back the
strong roots. Fibrous roots have been thrown out and a healthy
root system has been established. The rootsare shown somewhat
above the natural size for clearness.
C, section of hole in a prepared bed: i, bed of prepared soil; 7, ex-
cavation 12 to 18 inches wide, circular, and 10 inches in depth ; f,
soil taken out ; /, the layer, about 1 inch thick, of thoroughly
rotted manure placed at the bottom of the hole and covered with
a little fine soil.
38 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSH GROWING.
Chapter 8.—Bow to Plant.
WHEN the soil has been properly prepared for Roses, planting
is both swiftly and simply performed. When it has not been
properly prepared, planting is slow and difficult.
People may have realised this with their Geraniums. Set
out to plant a flower bed without a preliminary digging, and the
trowel can only be driven in with an expenditure of force that
the economical mind recoils from. Use the fork first, and the
trowel does its work with ease.
When the soil has been well trenched for Roses, shovelling
out to get in the plant is child’s play. The spade never bites
and jars; it sinks freely and luxuriously in, revelling in its ©
pleasant duty. The soil comes out all a-crumble.
The hole may be made nearly 1 foot deep. If that has not
brought the operator into the neighbourhood of the manure
used in the bastard trenching, a light coat of well-decayed stuff |
may be laid in and covered with a couple of inches of soil. Do
not make a deep, narrow hole and pack it with rank dung;
that is bad.
Set the plant squarely in the hole, and see how things are
for depth. What we are aiming at is to finish with the collar
just, and only just, covered with soil. If when we set the plant
in we have so far miscalculated in our shovelling that the collar
is distinctly below the surface level, we must withdraw the tree
and put in a little more soil ; if the collar is above the level we
must have some out.
We shall find from experience that the rootstocks of our trees
differ, some being deeper than others. We could, of course, so
manipulate them as to make them very much alike; but that
is just what we are not going to do. ~
The next step to getting a proper level is to cover. Stand
the plant square, and work some fine soil about the roots.
Lightly shake the tree, and settle this soil in among the roots.
Afterwards, fill the hole. People are often rather nervous
about firming the soil. They fear the weight of the gardener’s
foot, and dread injury to the roots. These fears are, in the
main, groundless. When one has had experience in planting,
he does not damage roots in firming the soil with his foot.
Using the toes and ball, he gently, but withal firmly, “ kneads ”
the soil into a compact mass.
Let the absolutely upper layer of soil be loose, and scatter
over it a thin mulching of manure ; then the work is done.
What, though, about staking? It ought not to be wanted’
HOW TO PLANT ROSES. 39
_ for dwarfs, although necessary for standards. If I had very
strong dwarfs to deal with, especially in an exposed position,
I might stake, because, if heavy winds caused the plants to
sway, the collar would be exposed, and the roots would not have
a proper chance of getting hold. But it is more likely that I
should take off a third of each strong branch, to reduce the
wind surface. There is no harm whatever in this, even if it
is done in autumn, so long as pruning proper is deferred till
spring.
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PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 17.—PLANTING ROSES.—II.
D, A Rose tree properly planted : m, a layer of thoroughly decayed manure
covered with fine soil; , the soil which has been excavated replaced,
the roots spread out in the hole, with the collar just below the surface ;
0, the prepared bed; py, a mulching of manure 2 inches thick,
K, a section of a bed with the trees properly planted: g, bed; 7, grass; s,
shoots shortened a little to avoid rocking by the wind.
I’, a section in which the tree has been rocked hither and thither by the
wind: ¢, a hole made at the stem, thereby injuring it and affecting
the rooting prejudicially.
G, a plant staked: wu, stake, and shoot secured to it
40 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
In the case of standards, the stake should be regarded as
indispensable, and put in with the Rose. And let the stake
be a long one—5 to 6 feet if possible. It should be 18 inches
in the soil.
It frequently happens that a Rose tree has most of its roots
on one side, instead of ina circle round the stem. Shape the hole to
fit the roots.
The same root system will very likely be found to exist with
arch and wall Roses. Here there is no trouble. The com-
monsense of the planter tells him to turn the side with the
fewest roots to the support.
To summarise: Dig deep, plant shallow ; spread the roots,
close the soil; buy early, plant early, prune early ; win prizes
early and bank the money early; live long, and plant some
Roses every year.
(References to Fig. 18, page 41.)
H, a one year old Hybrid Perpetual from a cutting, the shoots of which have
been shortened to about 12 inches: v, a strong root which has taken a
straight down direction; w, roots which have taken a more or less
horizontal direction, 2, a root which issued from the base of a shoot; y,
dormant buds which will ultimately start when the shoots above ground
are close pruned; z, a shoot produced from a bud below the ground;
a, shoots made from buds above the ground; 4, depth at which the
cutting was inserted.
I, aone year old tree on its own roots, showing the roots shortened and
spread out laterally, the descending roots having been bent from a verti-
cal to a horizontal inclination without breaking: ¢, the soil trenched and
manured ; d, a layer of decayed manure covered with good soil ; e, soil
made quite firm under, amongst, and over the roots; f, a mulching of
short manure; g, shoots shortened after planting to prevent displacement
by wind.
J, the tree planted with the roots intact: h, a straight down root carefully
brought by a gentle bend to a horizontal direction ; 7, side roots spread
out horizontally ; 7, a root from the base of a shoot spread out near the
surface; k, soil; 7, soil with which the hole is filled; m, a mulching of
short manure. :
K, a standard properly planted in the centre of a 2 feet wide circle ona
lawn : m, prepared soil; 0, a thin layer of manure covered with a little
fine soil; p, hole; g, mulching; 7, the stake to which the stem is secured ;
s, grass. [N.B.—A pillar Rose is planted similarly. ]
L, planting against arch: ¢, subsoil broken up and manure added; u,
ground trenched and manured in a_half-circle not less than
2 feet 6 inches wide and 2 feet deep; v, a Rose with its roots spread out
near the surface ; w, turfreplaced ; w, opening left free from turf not less
than 1] foot clear from the stem in a halt-circle and mulched with
short manure; y, gravel path; z, portion of arch.
4]
HOW TO PLANT ROSES.
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42 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Chapter 9.—Bow to Prune.
THE psychologist, who loves to bring his mental dissecting knife into
play on human characteristics and emotions, would find a little
material for his operations if he were to turn his attention to
the study of Rose growers. Set him up with the elementary
fact that men systematically over-prune, and women as con-
sistently under-prune, and he would straightway reel off a
dissertation on the primitive instincts of the sexes, which,
highly learned though it might be, would teach us only what
we know already namely that man is in his elements a
savage, whereas woman is sweet, tender, and angelic.
On the face of things there is no apparent reason why the
horticulturist should add another to his already long list of
subjects of study; yet here we see that psychology has its
value. In his ignorance of human instincts, the horticulturist,
who is usually a mere child in worldly wisdom, has often
puzzled his brains to account for the departure from his
precise instructions which he has observed. The man whom
he set out to teach has overdone it; the woman has under-
done it.
Now, having sucked the psychological orange dry, and
satisfied ourselves that the reason why Rose growers so often
go astray with their pruning is purely a matter of sexual im-
pulses, it may be well to deal with the situation on such
hard and fast lines of practical philosophy as are represented
by the letters of the alphabet, the figures of the numerical
system, and a foot rule. .
I do not believe that Roses will ever be pruned properly
on general principles. Principles are beautiful things, but they
(References to Fig. 19, page 43.)
A, two years old tree: a, point of first pruning to five buds, resulting in
five growths and a sixth from an underground bud; 4, June flowering
shoots ; ¢, autumn flowering shoots; d, spring growths; e, points of
spring pruning ; f, leading growth to be shortened at discretion.
B, three years old tree: g, very weak shoots shortened to one bud; h, weak
shoots to two buds; 2, fairly strong shoots to three buds; 7, very strong
shoots to four buds.
For further particulars see the chapter on Pruning.
ee PRUNING DWARF HYBRID PERPETUALS. 43
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 1..-HOW TO PRUNE DWARF HYBRID PERPETUALS.
(For references, see foot of page 42, and the chapter on Pruning.)
Gt PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSH GROWING.
ae not in themselves prevent people from spoiling Rose
ushes.
There are many thousands of Roses in this world that are
not pruned half enough, and there are nearly as many that
are pruned far too much. Roses go unpruned because
Angelina “can’t bear to cut the poor things about.” They
are overpruned because the man at the show told Edwin that
the way to get good Roses was to prune ’em, and no half
measures about it neither. |
Feminine humanity joins with masculine in agreeing that
finger-nails must be trimmed. True, aristocratic China leaves
one nail untrimmed, but it really finds it very inconvenient.
Roses must be cut. If the knife is never used upon the bushes
they will be as troublesome as the unpruned nail of the Son
of Heaven.
Do we get more or fewer flowers by pruning Roses? Fewer
certainly, at one particular season. An uncut bush grows to
a great size. If the soil in which it is growing suits it, the
tree throws up a great many branches, and on these form a
large number of shoots, some comparatively long, others mere
twigs, but all, or nearly all, capable of producing flowers of
a sort. Oh, yes! We will admit at once that non-pruning
means a great many more flowers open at what we consider
orthodox Rose time than pruning. But this conceded, we pro-
ceed to “get our own back” in two ways—(1) by claiming,
which we can do with confidence, that the pruned bush gives
better successional crops than the unpruned one; (2) the
flowers are more intellectually satisfying, because they are
larger, and have finer form, greater substance, and richer colour.
With the growth of Rose shows, the temptation to push
hard pruning to its extreme limits in order to get a few flowers
of abnormal size became too strong to be resisted. Rose bushes
were pruned harder and harder: they gave larger and larger
flowers: the hard pruner won more and more prizes, con-
sequently he became regarded more and more as an authority:
he wrote more and more articles and books. The whole order
of events is perfectly natural, but it is not a bit less mis-
chievous. To cut every Rose bush in the garden equally hard,
regardless of its habit and relative degree of natural vigour,
is on the same intellectual plane as cutting the hair of a
charity school.
It may be argued by the Rose writer that to give individual
instructions for dealing with every one of the hundreds of
varieties grown in gardens would be an impossible task. I
agree. With a tolerably long lst in my own garden, and a
long, long string in other gardens with which I have had to do, I am
well able to appreciate the force of the argument. No writer can show,
without an interminable array of illustrations, the exactly very best
way of pruning every Rose grown. j
°
PRUNING DWARF HYBRID PERPETUALS. 45
He need not, however, on that account go and tell the
beginner that the ideal pruning for every Rose is to cut it
close to the ground line every spring. A large number of
Roses which are grown in good soil throw out strong, sub-climb-
ing shoots. It is barbarous to cut these to the ground every
year. If slightly shortened and kept well apart, so that the
side shoots which they throw have room to extend without
crowding, they will give a succession of very fine flowers.
Pruning Dwarf Hybrid Perpetuals.
To point this plea for moderate pruning, and at the same
time help the fair grower who, hitherto averse from pruning
at all, is now driven reluctantly to ask for practical guidance
in the hateful duty, it will be well to refer to an illustration
which may help to teach the happy medium in pruning.
In Fig. 19 (p. 43) is an interesting study in Rose pruning on
the “moderate” system. In A we have a two years old
plant. As a maiden it was shortened at the point shown by
the letter a, which will be found in the lower part of the open
space in the centre of the bush. At the time of shortening
there were five bold buds visible on the lower part of the stem,
and each of these pushed a shoot, represented by the letter e.
But there are six of these letters instead of only five. Where
has shoot number 6 come from? It has sprung from a bud
which, being just beneath the surface of the soil, was not ob-
servable at pruning time.
We shall come back to the letter e in order to see what the
cuts mean. In the meantime, let us examine the letters }, c,
and d. The first letter, b, indicates where the bush flowered
for the first time in June, and the shoots which bore the
flowers were lightly shortened. The second letter, c, shows
where the bush flowered for the second time, perhaps in
September or October. The third letter, d, indicates how
shoots started in early spring from the growths which flowered
in autumn.
Now it will be clear from this that we have to regard the
bush as consisting of two parts—the part (upper growth),
above e, which gave us leaves and flowers one year, and the
part (lower stumps) below e, which we are going to make use of
to give us the leaves and flowers of the next year. There
is a dividing line in this bush, and that dividing line is the
letter e. All above e has served its purpose; we now get rid
of it, and rely on the stumps below e to give us a new bush.
We may pause for a moment to consider what would
happen if we left this line of demarcation altogether out of
account, and kept the bush with the shoots b, c, d intact. In
other words, if we abandoned pruning altogether.
46 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
What would happen is this: In spring the shoots near the
tips of the branches, d. which first made a move in February
or early March, would grow rapidly. The shoots nearest of
all to the top would be the strongest; others, however, would
break lower down. We should, in short, get a great many
young branches near the top of the bush; the lower part would
be comparatively bare.
Now, here we are given pause at once. Firstly, our un-
pruned bush is obviously going to be a spreading bush, and it
is going to be top-heavy. If we want our Roses to be sprawly,
and of a water-on-the-brain aspect, well and good. If we do
not, bad. Secondly, the flower-producing energies of our
unpruned bush are going to be very much diffused. We stand
to get a great many flowers, but they will be small, and they
will be of no particular shape. If we want a great many
flowers, and do not care what shape they are, well and good.
If we want fewer fine flowers, bad.
It all amounts to this: We can, if we like, leave bush A
just as it is, and have no dividing line e at all; but before we
decide on that let us at least have the issue before us. We
can have a healthy bush, but we cannot have a compact one.
We can have a great many flowers, but we cannot have fine
specimens of the particular varieties.
Those who are going in for the non-pruning system must
now please step aside for a few moments until I have dealt
with those who have set their hearts on compact bushes and
fine flowers. To all such the dividing line, e, becomes some-
thing very important indeed. Unfortunately, while it looks
clear enough on paper, with the wide gaps between the upper
and the lower shoots, it is not so clear on the growing bushes ;
how shall we find it? We can get at it in this way: When
growth begins in late winter on the upper part of the bush,
an examination of the lower part will reveal little reddish
swellings. These are buds. Counting from near the ground
line upwards until we have come to six of them, we can say,
“There, just above the sixth bud, is my letter e.” Count the
buds on each shoot in the same way, and the dividing line is
arrived at.
We must not, however, put our pruning knife through at
once. If we did a catastrophe might ensue. Those eager
young shoots which are bursting near the top of the bush in
February are taking the sap and keeping the lower buds—the
really important buds—dormant. In March or early April
comes a sharp frost, and those froward shoots get very sharply
nipped. No matter. The buds are safe because they are not
growing. If we had cut to e directly the tips, d, began to
move, we should have concentrated the sap on the bottom buds
and caused them to break into shoots, which of course would
have had to bear the brunt of the “ nip.”
PRUNING DWARF TEAS.
47
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 20.—PRUNING DWARF TEA-SCENTED ROSES.
A, cutting of Hybrid Tea La France, with outline of first season’s
weakly growths: a, roots; 4, shoots.
B, plant (A), two years old: ¢, points where weakly shoots (A 4) were
pruned to one bud each in the previous spring; d, depth of
planting, all the stem or cutting part being buried, partly to
make sure of growths from the stem in case of severe frost
cutting the top growths to the ground, and partly to ensure roots
pushing from the base of the shoots as indicated by the dotted
_lines ; ¢, main roots formation ; *, vigorous shoots, g, points of
long pruning for good growth and flowers; h, points of short
pruning for fewer very fine flowers.
C, plant (A), three years old, long pruned {B g): i, shoots from the
main buds; 7, growths from the side buds; 4, a growth which
has sprung from « buried bud. The bars indicate the points of
runing.
D, es exactly similar plant to.A, treated as B, but short pruned.
(B h): 2, growths from the main buds; m, growths from the side
buds; », growth from a bud below ground; 0, points of pruning.
I, one year old plant of La France Rose on the seedling Brier,
pruned : », side shoots shortened to two buds; g, leading growth
cut to five buds, not counting the basal bud in either case.
F, two years old plant (KE) a year older, only one shoot being
allowed on each side branch, and two shoots on the leading
branch, showing the third pruning: 7, side branch shoots cut to
two buds; s, upper branch shoots to three buds. ‘The dotted
lines indicate growths from the buds on the respective shoots.
-
48 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
If, however, it is dangerous to prune hard in February or
early March, it is safe to prune a little. We can remove a
few inches of the tips of the branches, if we are getting
alarmed at the extension of the shoots, without doing any
harm. But early April is soon enough for cutting to e—that
is, for doing the real pruning.
So far as figure A is concerned, it remains to make a brief
allusion to 7, which will be found on the left hand side, below
* a. Nothing very disastrous would take place if the grower
ignored it altogether, but a rosarian with an eye to a perfectly
formed and dwarf bush would cut out the strong shoot at f,
and so leave the centre quite open. ,
It is necessary to give a few moments’ attention to B, which
may be taken as the result of pruning such a bush as A when
another year has passed. A safe rule to follow in the third
and succeeding years is to prune very weak shoots, mere
twigs as thick as whipcord, to one bud; shoots % inch thick
to two buds; shoots + inch thick to three buds; all shoots
upwards of } inch thick to four buds. In every case begin
to count at the base of the shoot. Each little reddish protuber-
ance is a bud.
The course of pruning here outlined is perhaps as near the
happy medium as we can get. Ina sense it is hard pruning.
It concedes more to the show pruner than to the non-pruner.
It cannot, perhaps, be applied with equally satisfactory results
to every Rose in the garden; but there is this to be said
in its favour—it is more likely, if generally applied, to give
good all round results than any other system, whether of harder
or lighter pruning, that might be chosen for general adoption.
The comparative merits of hard and light pruning (with non-
pruning we will have nothing whatever to do) are likely to
provoke discussion until the end of time. As long as Rose
shows are held people who are fond of Roses will go to them,
and, seeing very large blooms there, will want to produce
flowers just like them in the garden at home. It is not an
(References to Fig. 21, page 49.)
A, upper part of a standard in the first growth from the bud; a, stem, Brier
or Dog Rose; 4, point of cutting off the shoot in which the bud was
inserted the previous summer about 1 inch beyond the bud during
March ; ¢, a vigorous shoot from the bud; d, point of pinching out the
tip of the shoot as soon as it has made four leaves, not counting the
small basal one
B: f, shoots which pushed as a result of pinching the shoot A ¢ to four leaves ;
, growths issuing after a second stopping.
C, one year old head after the spring pruning : /, the wood first made; 7, the
wood which formed as a result of stopping the shoot from the bud at the
fourth leaf. ‘These four shoots, shortened to two buds each, are certain
to give eight flowering growths the following summer.
PRUNING STANDARD TEAS. 49
(References to Fig. 21, continued from page 48.)
D, one year old standard: 7, shoot from the central eye of the bud ; k, growths
from the side eyes of the bud: /, points of pruning, each shoot to two
buds.
EK, two years old standard (D a year older): m, vigorous shoots that have
produced fine blooms ; ”, points where shoots have been rubbed off while
quite small; 0, points of pruning to two buds,
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG, 21—PRUNING STANDARD TEA-SCENTED ROSES.
F, a three years old standard (E a year older): p, shoots that have produced
good blooms; g, points of pruning to two buds; in the following
summer two shoots are allowed to remain on each portion of the previous
year’s wood.
G, head of two years old standard (ID in previous year), pruned as there
shown, each shoot to two buds: 1, shoots shortened to two buds.
H, three years old standard (G a year older); s, shoots pruned to two buds
D
50 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSH GROWING.
unworthy ambition. The Roses at the show represent the
greatest possible development of the particular varieties, and
people cannot be blamed if, seeing a high ideal, they resolve
to work up to it. There is, however, reason to fear that this
laudable resolution often leads to disappointment, and the
amateur may well be warned not to expect too much. Under
the merciless pruning which the great exhibitor practises many
varieties would fail unless they had the best of well-chosen
soil and the highest of skilled culture. Many amateurs cannot
give the soil and culture of the great grower, consequently the
hard pruning system is not for them.
Pruning Dwarf Teas.
Let us look a little farther into the details of pruning, this
time in connection with Teas. Every year these lovely
varieties — which, be it remarked, are far more “perpetual”
than the so-called “Hybrid Perpetuals” — grow in favour. Teas
are pruned hard by exhibitors, who want a few very fine
blooms, but hard pruning is not the thing to give a long succes-
sion, extending over several months, of sweet, shapely, and
beautiful blossoms.
Fig. 20 (p. 47) will help us in our search for the happy
medium in pruning Teas and Hybrid Teas. It shows us
(A BCD) a set of plants in different stages on their own roats,
and (H Ff) a pair of plants at two different stages on the seed-
ling Brier stock.
We have inserted a cutting (A) of La France, or some other
Tea or Hybrid Tea, which in due course pushes roots (a) and
branches (b). In a year’s time we transplant it, pruning the
weak shoots to a single bud (c), and plant it deeply enough to
bury the whole of the cutting stem (d). Two strong branches
spring up (f), which we prune in the spring of the following
year. If we want a few very fine flowers we prune hard (h);
if we want good growth and a long supply of nice blooms we
prune lightly (9).
In either case the result of our pruning is to cause our
lant to throw out side shoots. If we prune lightly we get a
ush similar to C; if we prune hard we get a bush similar
to D. C has more wood than D, and it will give more flowers,
pen individual blossoms will not be quite so fine as those
of D.
The exhibitor uses the seedling Brier a good deal for his
Teas, and his mode of procedure is outlined in figures # and
’, wherein are shown the shortening of the yearling and the
subsequent pruning of the two years old tree. |
The foregoing, and the references which accompany the
figures, will perhaps serve to give even novices a good con-
ception of the principles of pruning as applied to dwarf
PRUNING STANDARDS. 51
Roses, and. not only that, but a practical idea of actual work.
For the rest, knife exercise must hold sway. To learn prun-
ing as it should be learned, the grower must have a book in
one hand and a knife in the other. The book should be clear,
and the knife should be sharp. The writer of the book should
express his views boldly, and the student should cut boldly.
To sum up, no pruning is bad ; hard pruning is good chiefly
for the exhibitor, moderate pruning is best for the large army
of Rose growers who, like myself, grow a collection of Roses
of various classes, and want blooms from them, not only of
true character and presentable form, but in large numbers
for cutting.
The varieties which naturally produce long, strong shoots
must always be lightly pruned, hanauie they produce their
finest blooms from the uppermost buds; on the other hand,
those sorts which naturally make short, twiggy wood may be
closely pruned, because they produce their best blooms near
the base.
In all cases the bushes must be kept open. In crowded
bushes the wood remains soft and unripe. No matter what
the system of pruning adopted, the wood must be plump and
firm, otherwise the buds will be weak, and the shoots incapable
of flowering well. It is particularly necessary to study this
point with naturally coarse growers. The best plan with such
is to thin out some of the shoots altogether, cutting them clean
away from the base, like overcrowded Raspberry canes. Those
left will then ripen, and with very little pruning will flower
abundantly.
If Roses have been injured by frost, pruning time in spring
may be a period of some little anxiety, and discrimination may
be called for. The strong, ripened shoots which we should, in
the ordinary way, have pruned little, we may have to cut
hard, in fact we must keep cutting farther and farther down
until we have removed every bit of brown pith, and come to
the greenish grey healthy wood.
The latest growth made, i.e. the wood which develops
towards autumn, is naturally the softest and most liable to
injury. This, being near the extremities of the bush, goes
first in pruning.
Pruning Standards.
The pruning of standards is conducted on much the same
lines as that of dwarfs. As more people bud standards than
bud dwarfs, it will be well to show, in Fig. 21 (p. 49), he stages by
which a good flowering head is developed from the bud in-
serted insummer. The reader will recollect that in the chapter
on propagation he was advised to insert his buds as close to
the main stem of the Brier as he could get them. If he will
now glance at A B and C he will learn the subsequent stages
52 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
(Note that only the head of the tree is shown; the stem of the
Brier is omitted to economise space). a is the stem, and ¢ is
the young Rose growing from the bud; 6 is the remainder of the
Brier shoot on to which the Rose was budded the previous
summer; it is common to shorten this to a few inches in
spring, the stump being left to tie the young Rose to as it
develops until it is strong enough to stand alone; afterwards
the stump is cut quite away. —
If the young Rose, c,.were left to itself, it would extend
freely, and very likely show a bud. Premature flowering is
not desirable, consequently the shoot is stopped at the fourth
large leaf. If the side shoots (f) which push as a result of this
stopping are again stopped at the fourth leaf, more growths
push (g) and a good head is quickly formed; in fact, this is
about the quickest way of forming a good standard. The
following spring’s pruning removes the shoots (q) and shortens
the shoots (f) to two buds each. Eight or nine splendid flower-
ing shoots follow. The result of this spring pruning leaves
the head as shown at C. It looks bald and bare, but it will
soon be full and green.
The same point as to hard pruning to get fine blooms holds
good with the standards as with the dwarfs. D EF and F
show a set of heads which are hard pruned on the big-blooms
principle. By pruning the head, H#, to two buds (0), and
rubbing out one of the buds on each shoot (n) the energies of
the tree are concentrated on a very limited amount of growth,
and a few very fine blooms are produced. The following year
(F) the pruning is to two buds (q) and both are allowed to
push shoots. G differs from E in that all the buds are left,
instead of some being picked out (#, n). As a result, G has
more wood than EF, and develops more rapidly, but does not
give quite such fine flowers. H is a natural development of @. —
It shows the limit to which the grower with a desire for a good
head and a fair proportion of good flowers may go. It is per-
fectly safe as it is—safe to ripen its wood and give good
blooms; but as the years pass it will have a tendency to
become crowded, and must be thinned to ensure thorough
ripening and prevent overcrowding.
Pruning Climbers.—Maréchal Niel.
Tf dwarf Roses are not grown less than they used to be,
climbers are certainly grown more. The introduction of
Crimson Rambler had a very remarkable effect. It not only
added to our gardens an exceedingly beautiful, distinct, and
valuable Rose, but it led to increased attention being given to
all classes of “climbing” Roses.
Climbers have grown in favour, and will continue to grow.
In every establishment there will be a climbing Rose some-
PRUNING MARECHAL NIEL. 53
where—on the house, on a fence, on an arch, on an arbour.
And, naturally, people will want to know how to manage the
plants in order to get plenty of healthy growth and abundance
of flowers.
Maréchal Niel is not a recognised outdoor Rose. It is
own out of doors, to be sure, in a good many places, and in
avoured spots often succeeds; but it cannot be relied upon
to ripen its wood in damp localities, consequently it is liable
to be badly cut by frost. In districts where a relatively dry
atmosphere prevails, and in positions where the tree can be
protected Eetara weather, the Maréchal often lives for several
years in the open air.
In the main Maréchal Niel is an indoor Rose, and as such
we may consider it. Grown,to cover the roof of a cool green-
house or conservatory, or even for the wall of _a vinery, it
frequently does splendid service. It is even more successful
when given a galvanised wire trellis and trained like a Peach,
its long shoots stretching away 20 feet or more, all brownish
green and ripe from exposure to sun and air. Thus grown, the
Maréchal proves what sterling worth is in him, producing every
spring scores, or even hundreds, of magnificent flowers.
Time was when Maréchal Niel as an indoor climber was
pruned on the system which to this day finds favour with the
majority of people for climbing Roses in general—the system
of snippety-snip. This. system consists in clipping little bits
off here and little bits off there, with a rare—a very rare—
interlude of thinning, in which a whole shoot is removed.
Times have changed. Snippety-snip no longer rules the roost,
for it has been found that the Maréchal thrives the best when
hard pruned back every year. Although this plan of going to
work has been proved to be far the best in general practice,
it is very difficult to induce those who have never had experi-
ence of it to put it into operation. They shake a dubious head
when advised to prune their Rose back close to the stock,
obviously oppressed by the fear that the plant would never
survive such barbarous treatment. I can only say, for the
benefit of any such who may read these lines, that, although
it has been my privilege to see the Maréchal under all condi-
tions of culture, it is only under the cutting-back system that
IT have seen it in perfection. When pruned back to within a
bud or two of the stock—which may mean cutting off 20 feet,
and leaving only 2 inches of each shoot—immediately after
flowering, new growth has broken at once, shoots have flown
up with amazing rapidity, and in a few short weeks the space
| erly occupied has been covered with fresh and healthy
wood.
The finest examples that I have ever seen were grown on
Peach trellises. They had been budded on to Brier stems
about 2 feet high. They were usually in bloom by Easter, and
54 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSH GROWING.
in most seasons Whitsun saw the last flower cut and sent tw
market. The plants were instantly pruned back, and in
September the trellis was covered once more. The growths
of the Rose were trained diagonally across the trellis like the
ribs of a fan.
It is only in favourable circumstances that this system may
be brought into play in the open air. There must be a for-
ward spring, which ensures an early flowering, and enables the
grower to get his cutting back done by the end of June or
thereabouts ; and there must be genial showers throughout
the summer to help the plant to make its new growth before
——
(References to Figs. on page 55.)
FIGS. 22 and 23.—PLANTING MARECHAL NIEL.
B, a section of a lean-to house: a, subsoil; 4, the back wall, preferably built
hollow ; ¢, the front wall; d, the front light, opening the whole length
of the house by a crank and lever apparatus ; e, the roof; f, the top
light, opening the whole length of the house by a crank and lever
apparatus; g, the wall coping; /, the opening apparatus; 7, the spout;
J, the trellis wires, 6 inches apart, with stays not less than 1 foot or
more than 16 inches from the glass; wire No. 10 galvanised, given one
coat of white lead paint after fixing; 4, the back wall wires, 6 inches
apart, and not more than 1 inch from the wall; /, 4-inch hot-water pipes —
(flow and return); m, a 4-inch tile drain, which must run the whole
length of the house, and have a proper fall and outlet; ”, drainage
(rubble, half-brick size at the bottom, decreasing upwards, and finishing
with a 2-inch layer of old mortar rubbish) ; 0, the border (turfy loam of
medium texture, 12 parts ; fresh horse droppings, 1 part ; bones, crushed,
% inch, ¢ part; mixed); y, a Maréchal Niel Rose properly planted, the
roots being disentangled after being turned out of their pot, and spread.
out evenly in the border; g, a back wall plant, such as Safrano or Climb-
ing Niphetos; 7, a batten pathway, dressed when quite dry with three
coats of Stockholm tar thinned to a paint-like consistency with parafiin
oil, allowing to become dry between the coats. Outside planting: s,a
3-inch tile drain; ¢, the drainage; wu, the border; v, the Rose introduced
through an aperture made in the wall, allowing plenty of room for the
stem to swell, the stem outside being wrapped with hay bands or
hair felt, and the roots well protected during winter from severe
frost.
(, a section of a span-roof house: w, the side walls; 2, the side lights,
opening the whole length of the house by a crank and lever apparatus;
y, the roof ; z, a cap ventilator the whole length of the house, worked by
a crank, pinion, and lever appliance; a, the trellis; 4, 4-inch hot-water
pipes (flows) ; ¢, 4-inch hot-water pipes (returns) ; d, a 3-inch drain;
e, the rubble for drainage ; f, the border; g, 9-inch brick pillars, about
9 feet apart, for supporting the hot-water pipes; 4, batten paths, formed
of 2-inch bearers about 3 feet apart, with l-inch battens, having about
1 inch space between them; 7, young specimens of Maréchal Niel Rose
properly planted ; 7, the position for Tea-scented Roses in pots, which
should be placed outdoors in summer, or after the first blooms are cut
and the young growths made,
13
>
HOUSES FOR MARECHAL NIEL.
\
FIG. 22,_MARECHAL NIEL IN A LEAN-TO HOUSE,
Hh
NIEL IN A SPAN-ROOF HOUSE,
FIG. 23—_MARECHAL
(For references, see page 54.)
56 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
the cold weather comes. To complete the tale, there should
be a sunny autumn to thoroughly ripen the wood. We do not
get this happy association every year.
Fig. 22 (p. 55) shows how anyone who proposes to set apart a
lean-to house mainly for Roses, to include the Maréchal, either
to get blooms for market or for private pleasure, may proceed
in his planting ; and Fig. 23 shows how a span-roof house may
be utilised to the best advantage. Plants turned out of pots
may be planted at almost any period of the year. If planted
in the autumn, when leafless, they may be shortened (see D &,
D, a one-stemmed plant at the first
pruning: k, the point of shorten-
ing to induce vigorous growths to
push in the following spring for
forming the basal rods; J, the
upper part of the plant, which in
the previous season was allowed to
make all the growth possible; m,
the wall front of a lean-to, or the
side of a span-roofed house ; n, the
hot water pipes; 0, the wall plate ;
p, the light; g, the eave of the
house.
a plant in the second year after
planting: 7, the stem, from which
all the growths have been re-
moved except the two most
promising ; s, vigorous shoots
which are allowed to make all the
growth possible during the sum-
mer, training them to the right
and left of the stem (as shown)
so as to have them 2 feet apart
when taken upright; ¢, the point
of the wall plate; u, the position
of the eave; v, the point of
shortening the growths at the
winter pruning.
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 24.—FIRST STAGES OF PRUNING MARECHAL NIEL.
PRUNING WILLIAM ALLEN RICHARDSON. 57
Fig. 24), and will then throw up vigorous shoots, as shown in £.
The third season’s pruning, by which canes are produced for
covering the trellis, is shown at i Fig. 25 (p. 59), and the stumps to
which the trees are reduced when the cutting back has taken
place are represented at G, 9.
Pruning Climbers.—William Allen Richardson.
This favourite Rose, which is only a few degrees less
popular than Maréchal Niel, succeeds on the cutting back
system remarkably well when grown in rich soil. With a
tolerably dry atmosphere, and in very good ground, I have
known it thrive for years in the open air under that system of
pruning; but it was always cut badly by hard winters, and in
very severe weather was cut to the ground. In a sense,
Nature did the work of the knife, but she did it in winter,
and, although the plant invariably broke up again from the
base, there was not time for the new wood to ripen up to
flowering point in the current year.
While, however, William Allen Richardson frequently gives
good results when long pruned like Maréchal Niel, it also gives
admirable results on a system more calculated to command the
confidence of timid pruners. The main principle is to secure
long main branches by cutting a young plant well back, and
on these long shoots to get shorter ones, which bloom, and are
cut back to fen wood below the points of flowering after the
val is gathered. é'
he details of this principle are explained in Fig. 26 (p. 60) and
the references thereto. It is open to the grower to make a start
with a very young plant, such as that represented at A, and
by judicious shortening to carry it through the successive
stages B and C to D, which represents a developed plant in
full flowering condition. The plant may be hard pruned
(B, d) if there is plenty of side space and a spreading tree is
wanted, or lightly shortened if side space is scarce and the
tree is desired to make the most of its growth upward.
When the tree is in flowering condition, it may be main-
tained so for many years, other things being right, by shorten-
ing the flowered shoots to five or six joints, or to ripened wood
as previously indicated, cutting out entirely, however, all
weak, soft, and unripe shoots. The tree will not long remain
floriferous if the main branches are trained very close together,
or if it is allowed to become crowded with side shoots. With
sufficient space between the growths for the leaves to have
full exposure the wood will become ripe, and the tree will
bloom freely.
Pruning Climbers.—Gloire de Dijon.
Gloire de Dijon remains, and is likely to remain, one of the
most popular of garden Roses. It is not often seen at shows,
58 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
because its flowers are imperfect from the exhibition standard.
In this connection it may be well to mention that the system
of pruning which is adopted has its influence. Gloire de Dijon
is amenable to more than one mode of pruning. Broadly
speaking, the long-rod system is the best where there is plenty
of space, as giving the most flowers ; but spur pruning may be
resorted to with advantage where space is limited, and it will
probably give the finest individual blooms.
A and D, Fig. 27 (p. 63), exemplify spur pruning. JD shows a
branch as it might be seen in spring trained to a wall, with
its side shoots; A represents an individual side growth from
such a branch. The result of shortening the side shoots in D
to the black cross bars is to remove the greater portion of the
lateral growth, and leave only short stumps of afew buds each,
on which flowering shoots will break for another year’s
oom.
It can hardly be said that this is the general way of treat-
ing Gloire de Dijon, because it is rare for the plants to be
cut at all. The majority of people leave their plants altogether
unpruned from year to year. It is probable, however, that
of the cases in which pruning is practised the majority favour
this system or its modification. B. When the main stem ofa
spur pruned tree gets very old or unhealthy, it may be cut
right back to a dormant bud near the base in order to secure
an entirely new break.
In E and F we see, in somewhat different degrees, the long-
pruning system. The one is adapted for the open, pegging
down the branches as shown at q, the other for a wall. The
constant succession of young wood maintained by cutting out
flowered branches, and taking up young ones which have
started from buds near the base, undoubtedly tends to free
flowering. ;
Pruning Pillar Roses.
The pillar Rose is an important feature in modern Rose
gardens. Not only is it a beautiful object in itself, but it
(References to Fig. 25, p. 59.)
F, a plant in its third season’s growth: w, the stem; x, the point of the
heading or first pruning ; y, side branches from which long rods are
originated for producing growths one year and flowering the next ; z, the
point of tke second year’s pruning, to originate two vigorous shoots
from each basal branch; a, strong growths trained to the roof trellis,
2 feet apart (shown claser on account of the depression from the upright
to the diagonal position in the drawing), and allowed to reach to the
full extent of the trellis or longer, the laterals being pinched to one
leaf as made; 4, the points of cutting away the rods after they have
flowered in the following season ; ¢, the wall plate; d, the eave.
G, a cut-back plant after flowering: e, the stem; f, the basal branches ; g,
stumps left after the branches are cut back to about two buds; /, branches,
which have flowered and are cut away.
PRUNING MARECHAL NIEL. 59
in
=
|
~
4
ia
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 25.-PRUNING MARECHAL NIEL ON THE LONG-ROD SYSTEM,
(For references, see page 58.)
60 PICTORIAL PRACTIOAL ROSE GROWING.
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 26.—PRUNING WILLIAM ALLEN RICHARDSON FOR WALL OR
TRELLIS.
A, aone year old plant : a, leading growth; 4, side growths; c¢, point
of shortening to originate vigorous shoots from the base.
B, a two years old plant with three strong shoots: d@, points of
shertening the shoots to induce vigorous growths for covering
the wall or trellis, if there is plenty of space all ways; e, points
of shortening the shoots for forming an erect growing plant if
there is more space upwards than sidewise.
C, a plant which has resulted from shortening the vigorous shoots
B to d: f, leading growth; g, side shoots; 4, growths not
allowed to extend beyond five or six joints, unless they are
flowering shoots, they being pinched and laterals stopped to one
or two joints ; 7, point of shortening the leading growth; /, points
of shortening the side shoots, only the immature points in both
cases being removed; #, branch bent down to cause the buds on
young wood to break evenly, applicable to all young shoots.
D, plant C a year older: 7, continuation growth from stem; m, con-
tinuation growths of side branches; ”, side shoots from previous
year’s shoots which flowered, or were not allowed to extend
beyond five or six joints; 0, two years old side growths, called
spurs. Pruning is confined to shortening the leading shoot of
the stem and the continuation growths of the side branches to
firm, thoroughly ripened wood, indicated by the cross lines ; »,
growths that may be allowed to extend for filling bare space.
E, an upright trained plant (B e a year older): g, continuation
growths; 1, side shoots; s, points of shortening the leading
growths; ¢, points of pruning the side shoots.
F, an upright trained plant (Ea year older): w, continuation shoots
from branches: v, one year old side shoots; w, two years old side
branches or spurs; the pruning being indicated by cross lines.
ewe)
PRUNING ROSES FOR PEGGING DOWN. 6}
serves to prevent the sense of uniformity which would prevail
were there nothing but beds.
The pillar may stand alone, or it may form one of several
in a bed. It is in the latter circumstances that it does its
best work. The beds of pillars in many of our large private
Rose gardens, and also at Kew, are objects of great beauty.
To have a pillar Rose in its fullest beauty it must be
clothed from head to base. Pillars are frequently seen, how-
ever, of which the upper part only is well furnished. This is
a result, in many instances, of leaving the plant unshortened
in the season of planting. In all cases where young plants
are putin it is advisable to shorten them in spring, so as to
ensure strong shoots from the base, which are certain to come
if the roots are healthy and the soil is good.
In the case of strong flowering plants three or four years
old, well furnished with canes, such hard cutting back need
not be practised, but the canes should be bent over when the
buds begin to swell in spring, and only trained upright and
secured to their supports when the lower buds have broken
strongly.
In any case of doubt as to shortening, whether in the first
or subsequent years, the character of the growth may be
studied. If the shoots are long, as thick as the little finger,
or nearly so, firm, and brown or greenish brown in colour,
they may be retained the greater part of their length. As a
rule the tips are soft and unripe; these may be removed. If
the shoots are little thicker than a straw, green and soft, they
should be cut hard back.
It is a help in the task of keeping the pillar well clothed
from bottom to top if some of the ripe, strong shoots are
shortened back or bent over when starting, in order to secure
a good break of flowering wood near the base.
In order to maintain pillars in beauty from year to year
over a long series of years, it is advisable to periodically
shorten a few of the stronger growths to buds near the ground
in order to originate fresh wood.
Pruning Roses for Pegging Down.
The pegged-down Rose plays its part in the garden, and it
is often observable that in proportion to the space it occupies
this type of plant gives an exceptional quantity of bloom.
The reason is that the natural energies of the plant are allowed
greater vent than in the case of the hard-pruned dwarf. As a
matter of fact, there are many varieties of Roses grown
systematically as dwarfs, and pruned somewhat severely in
order to keep them within bounds, which from their naturally
vigorous habit are better adapted for being pegged down.
The principle of pruning the pegged-down Rose is to lightly
shorten the strong shoots in spring, and when they have
62 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE @ROWING.
bloomed to remove them in order to make way for successional
shoots which have broken up from the base. It is Rasp-
berry pruning all over again.
Roses with short, twiggy shoots, whatever their section, are
unsuitable for culture as pegged-down Roses. On the other
hand, almost any class of Rose that has long, strong shoots
may be pressed into service. The observant grower can fre-
quently pick suitable plants for the eS whether Hybrid
Perpetuals, Teas, or Noisettes, from his own beds.
Pegging down has the effect hinted at in advising the bend-
ing over of the strong shoots of pillar Roses, and also in bend-
ing down the rods of Grape Vines, namely ensuring a good
(References to Fig. 27, page 63.)
A, short or spur pruning : a, shoot shortened to three buds, not counting tha
basal bud, or the small ones at the side of the shoot where it issues from
the previous year’s wood ; 4, basal bud—there is usually a corresponding
one opposite.
B, intermediate pruning, the shoot being almost twice as long as in short
pruning: ¢, point of shortening to 8 inches; d, point of shortening to 10
inches; e, basal bud.
C, long pruning, the shoot left as long as there is space for developing side
or bloom growths. All the thoroughly ripened wood is retained, only the
immature portion being cut off : f, point of shortening, the part left for
blooming being in this instance 15 inches, or nearly twice as long as in
intermediate pruning, and five times longer than in the short pruning ;
g, point of shortening to basal buds.
D, a branch spur pruned : /, points of shortening the stem, the numerals signi-
fying the age of the wood in years; i, terminal growth, very weak, to be cut
off at the cross line; 7, uppermost side growth which has flowered and
pushed a continuation shoot. This, shortened toa bud on firm, ripe wood
and the flowered growths cut off close (both indicated by cross bars) is
suitable for training as a continuation of the stem, as indicated by the
dotted line; 2, vigorous side growths from one year old wood wkich
flowered well at both the first and second blooming—the bars indicate
the points of pruning. The uppermost left hand branch in this connection
has made a strong second growth shoot, which may be pruned as indi-
cated by the dotted cross lines, and trained in as a leader where growths
are desired ; 7, stunted, weak growth, simply a flower shoot cut off close to
the stem; m, a vigorous shoot which started in consequence of the first
flowered growth having been cut off to within a bud of the stem—the
pruning is indicated by the cross lines; ”, two years old spurs, the
shoots of which have bloomed well—the bars indicate the points of
pruning; 0, three years old spur properly pruned.
E, bush of Gloire de Dijon on the long-branch, once-flowered system of
pruning: p, one year old, long, vigorous shoots with merely their
immature points shortened back to thoroughly ripened wood; 9, two years
old branches that have produced an abundance of fine blooms, and are
cut clean out at the following winter pruning.
F, tree of Gloire de Dijon on the long-pruning and flowered-branch-cut-out
system: 7, point of first shortening a strong, well matured shoot ; s, point
of shortening a vigorous growth which was taken forward in the previous
PRUNING GLOIRE DE DIJON. 63
(References continued frem page 62.)
yeur as a continuation of the branch; ¢, point of shortening strong
shoots which were allowed to grow from the base of the stem in the
Mrevious season; wv, continuation growths or one year old shoots taken
forward from the respective branches, marked for shortening; v, a
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 27.—PRUNING GLOIRE DE DIJON.
vigorous growth which was allowed to proceed from the base of a flowered
three years old branch and intended to displace it in the following
summer, marked for shortening; w, one year old or last-year-flowered
shoots; z, two years old growths or spurs; y, one year old flowered
shoots spur pruned ; z, laterals, to be cut off close to the shoo’,
64 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
break along the whole length of the cane. Plenty of Roses of
strong habit which, hard pruned, give stems and leaves instead
of flowers, may be ‘made to bloom abundantly by treating them
on the pegging-down system.
Pruning Weeping Roses.
If not of the first importance in Rose gardens, weeping
Roses have their value. When well furnished with healthy
flowering wood they are objects of considerable interest and
beauty.
Not every variety lends itself to manipulation as a weeping
Rose. It would be useless to endeavour to make a weeper of
a sort which naturally produces weak, stubby growths, and the
attempt would only end in the grower becoming a weeper
himself. Those varieties are the most suitable which produce
long, pendent shoots.
It is wise to make a commencement with young trees estab-
lished on standard Briers. By shortening fhe leading growth
(References to Fig. 28, page 65.)
A, one year old plant of Reine Olga de Wurtemburg from a cutting: a, free
root formation; 28, leading growth shortened to about 15 inches; -
vigorous side erowth cut back to about 9 inches ; ; d, weakly side shoot
shortened to two buds; e, portion of pole forming the support.
B, two years old pillar Rose (A a year older): f, leading growth shortened
to about 2 feet and secured to the pole; g, side shoots from the stem cut
back to two or three good buds each; h, continuation growth of a
vigorous side branch shortened to about 18 inches ; 4, side shoots from a
side branch cut in to two or three buds; 7, vigorous shoot from the base
as a result of close pruning, shortened to about 18 inches.
©, three years old pillar Rose: #, strong continuation growth from the
leading branch shortened to ‘thoroughly ripened wood and about
9 inches from the top of the pole, which is 7 feet 6 inches above ground;
1, one year old side shoots cut back to about four good buds; m, one year
old spurs cut clean out; », leading growth from a side branch shortened
to well matured wood; 0, one year old side shoots on a side branch
cut back to about four buds; y, one year old spurs on a side branch cut
clean out; g, spur growth cut close in [ Norr.—It is always advisable to
retain some buds at the base of a branch]; r, leading growth of a side
branch duly shortened; s, side shoots shortened to about four good buds.
D, four years old pillar Rose. Central branch (Ad) which has reached the
limit of height : ¢, the leading growth shortened to the top of the pole;
u, side shoots cut back to four buds; v, spurs cut clean away; w, a
vigorous young shoot from the collar of the plant or base of the central
branch, and intended to supplant the latter in a year’s time, the central
branch then being cut away in its favour. Side branch (Ac): #, continua-
tion growth shortened to firm wood a little below the height limit; y, one
year “old side shoots shortened to three or four buds; z, one year old
spurs cut clean out; @, young shoot from the base of the plant, and
intended to take the place of a side branch in a year or two’s time.
Side branch (Ad): 4, continuation growth shortened to well ripened
a. ee ee ee
PRUNING PILLAR ROSES. 65
(References continued from page 64.)
wood; ¢, side shoots shortened to three or four buds; d, one year old
spurs cut clean away; e,a young shoot from the base of the plant
intended to advance year by year and then take the place of the branch,
it
Ha
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PICTORIAL PRACTICE,—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 28.—PRUNING PILLAR ROSES.
this being then cut clean out at the base. Young growth: f, a shoot
which has sprung from the collar of the plant, to be held in reserve for
originating a vigorous shoot to take the place of a worn-out branch.
Dy
PICTORIAL PRACTIOAL ROSE GROWING.
oO
oP)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 29.—PEGGED-DOWN ROSES.—I. BRANCHES LEFT LONG.
A, one year old plant of a vigorous growing Rose cut down close to
the ground, or to within three buds of the junction of stock and
scion: a, point of shortening the maiden (the first growth from
the Rose bud) in the spring after planting; 4, vigorous shoots
developing from the buds, all others (unless very strong) being
rubbed off.
B, two years old plant of a vigorous growing Rose, showing the
difference between pruning fora dwarf and a pegged-down plant:
c, points of pruning for a dwarf plant; d, points of shortening
for pegging down, only the unripe points of the growths being
removed ; ¢, pruned shoots pegged down, thus causing the buds
to break evenly along their whole length; f, strong shoots
issuing from the base of the branches, and which, aliowed to
prow in the desired number, form the growths for pegging down
in the following season, the other branches that have flowered
heing cut away in their favour in the autumn after blooming.
C, a developed pegged-down Rose showing the flowered and succes-
sional growths: g, flowered branches (pegged-down shoots of
the preceding year’s growth); 2, young successional shoots for
pegging down to take the place of the flowered branches when
the latter are cut away to the base. [Norz.—Some of the most
promising of the older branches may be retained, especially those
with young, strong wood, for covering the space evenly. |
D, a pruned, established, pegged-down Rose: 7, one year old shoots
shortened and pegged down; J, two years old branches spur
pruned and retained for furnishing the space evenly with foliage
and bloom when there is not a sufficiency of young shoots.
PRUNING PEGGED-DOWN ROSES. 67
a few vigorous shoots are originated, and these, derqop ng
strongly, will bloom freely the following summer without
further pruning save to remove the soft, unripe tips. If
pruned back to basal buds, strong successional shoots will be
roduced, and these may be tied down as indicated by the
otted lines (Fig. 31, p. 69).
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 30.—PEGGED-DOWN ROSES.—II. LONG PRUNING.
E maiden, planted and cut down: f, point of shortening to the
ground in the spring after planting; /, vigorous growths
developing in summer.
I’, two years old plant which has not produced strong and long shoots
for pegging down in the first season: m, points of cutting close
in so as to induce vigorous shoots to push in the following sum-
mer ; ”, shoots developing as a result of cutting back to two buds. |
G, three years old plant (F a year older) with shoots pegged down and
young growths developing from their base: 0, strong and long
shoots of the previous year shortened and pegged down; 2,
vigorous growths issuing from their base.
H, a pegged-down, long-pruned Rose showing that the object is to
cover the space evenly with vigorous flowering growths: g, con-
tinuation shoots; r, growths left long for filling up space; s,
shoots spur pruned because space does not permit of long pruning
being adopted in their case.
I, a fully formed, long-pruned, peggededown Rose after pruning :
t, main branches; #, subsidiary branches left at the previous
pruning to fill up the space ; v, basal growths always reserved so
that a worn-out branch can be cut clean out and replaced by a
young, vigorous shoot.
-—-
68 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
When the head has been formed the pruner will have a
simple task. His object will be to keep the tree well furnished
with young, ripe wood, and to this end he should remove all
growths which are old and weak, or soft, or which tend to
cause crowding. With a limited number of branches, thinly
disposed, and only pruned to the extent of removing unripe
tips or thick side growth, there is no fear of a lack of flowers.
It must be remembered, however, that when the head is
once formed wholesale cutting back will be fatal to free
flowering.
Pruning Penzance Briers.
No modern Rose garden is complete without its Penzance
Briers. Beautiful in blossom, attractive later in the season
owing to their brightly coloured heps, graceful in growth, sweet-
leaved, the lovely race of garden Roses evolved by Lord Pen-
zance from the common Sweet Brier, Rosa rubiginosa, is one
that must grow in favour as the years roll on.
The common advice to avoid pruning Penzance Briers is
based on a sound principle. Assuredly these lovely Roses
must not be pruned as dwarf and standard Roses for exhibi-
tion are pruned—that is, cut to within a few eyes of the soil.
Such procedure could have but one result—the production of
gross, unripe, flowerless wood.
Nevertheless, it can hardly be maintained that it is advis-
able to leave plants absolutely untouched with the knife year
after year. Such a line of action—or rather inaction—would
result in a thicket of growth, much of which, being weak and
immature on the one hand or old and worn out on the other,
would produce few and poor flowers.
To secure pyramids of bloom—tall columns clothed from
top to bottom with flowers—a modified long-rod system of
paneice is the best. Any reader who has a bed of Penzance
riers in full bloom in his garden (and I, as I write, am in that
happy position) will observe that flowers are borne not only
(References to Fig. 31, page 69.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS
FIG. 31—PRUNING WEEPING ROSES.
A, one year old head of Noisette Rose Aimée Vibert on the Brier stock: «
stem of stock ; 4, main growth from the bud, cut back at the first prun-
ing to three buds; e¢, vigorous shoots produced as a result of the head-
ing ; d, points of shortening to secure bloom the following summer, and
also vigorous growths for increasing the head. The dotted cross lines
near the head of the stock indicate the points of pruning when it is
desired to originate long shoots for flowering the following year. ‘They
should be bent down as indicated by the dotted drooping lines, only the
unripe points being removed, After flowering on short growths their
PRUNING WEEPING ROSES. 69
(References continued from page 68.)
whole length, they should be cut hard back to young growths springing
from their base. This long branch system is well suited to the vigorous
growing varieties of Roses.
B, a two years old head (Ad a year older) : e, shoots cut clean out, because
there is not room for the proper display of their growths, flowering or
otherwise, in the following summer; f/f, side shoots shortened; g,
9)
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4
extremity growths of branches merely shortened to ripe wood; h
vigorous basal growths with their unripe points cut off,
Q, a three years head on a 6-feet stem + i, branches cut clean out or shortened ;
J, leading growths shortened; 4, side shoots on branches shortened ; J,
side shoots cut clean out; m,a two years old, long-flowered branch cut
away to its base; », long shoots from the base of the head retained tho
full length of their ripened wood.
>
70 PIOTORIAL PRAOTICAL ROSE GROWING.
on side shoots from the main canes, but on short basal growths.
At the same time he will notice strong young shoots springing
up from the rootstock, and others from the lower part of the
older canes.
Now, to leave the plants unpruned altogether would be to
get a tangle of growths, some old and exhausted from flower-
ing, others weak from overcrowding. By a judicious removal
of old flowered wood, and training up of new canes to become
plump and well ripened by exposure to sun and air, this
tangle is avoided, and a succession of vigorous, healthy, flori-
ferous wood is maintained.
The knife may further be advantageously used to shorten
strong flowering canes which are not fully ripened their entire
length. Such canes need not be cut hard, but the soft upper
portion may be removed. :
As regards the side branches which have flowered and sub-
sequently borne clusters of heps, they may be shortened to a
couple of buds.
Planting and Pruning Rose Hedges.
The Penzance Briers may be used for forming hedges, but
the common Sweet Brier is more commonly used for this pur-
pose. It is, of course, much cheaper than the Penzance Briers,
and if less beautiful in blossom is not inferior in fragrance.
Briers make splendid division hedges from 4 to 6 feet high
for gardens. For lower hedges the Scotch Rose, Rosa spino-
sissima, may be used.
Young Briers should be shortened and planted 1 foot apart
in a trench, unless the ground is very heavy and wet. In this
case the land should be drained, and hole planting resorted to.
If the leading shoots are shortened, and the coarse side shoots
trimmed in, a symmetrical hedge is easily secured.
Pruning Banksian Roses.
The Banksian Roses are little pruned. Hard cutting means
wood, but not bloom. What is required is a good supply of
long, strong, well ripened shoots, therefore systematic cutting
(Continued on page 74.)
(Leferences to Fig 32, page 71.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 32.—PRUNING PENZANCE BRIERS.
A. two years old plant of Penzance Brier Anne of Geierstein: a, one year
old growths ; 4, two years old wood, this being the growth which the
plant had when planted, and which was not pruned the first season:
c, side branches ; d, shoots on side branches spurred or shortened to two
buds ; e, central branch, to be cut out at the cross bar near J because
the shoots above are lank and likely to interfere with the symmetry of
PRUNING PENZANCE BRIERS.
(References continued from page 70.)
the head, and also to concentrate vigour on the parts retained ; g, strong
shoots long pruned or shortened to firm, thoroughly ripened wood.
B, three years old Penzance Brier Anne of Geierstein (A a year older) :
h, two years old branches with side shoots spurred or shortened to two
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buds, and leading growths cut back to sound ripe wood ; 7, vigorous
shoots from the base of the stem shortened to two-thirds of their length
or to ripe wood; j. a moderately strong shoot from the stem pruned to
six buds from its base; ’, a shoot from the stera below ground shortened
by one-third of its length; J, three years old branches cut clean away to
their junction with the stem, or to a young shoot there situate, as m.
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
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PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS,
FIG. 33.—PLANTING AND PRUNING ROSE HEDGES.—I.
A, a year old or seedling Sweet Brier, Rosa rubiginosa : a, tap root ;
b, side roots; c, collar; d, leading shoot; e, side shoots.
B, a two years old Sweet Brier: f, points of shortening the roots
which are damaged in lifting; g, depth of planting; 4, point of
cutting off the top when it is starting into growth in spring, in
order to encourage growths from the collar and secure a good
base.
PpatiAp
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C, planting in a trench, the Briers being 1 foot apart: i, trench taken
out by line 9 to 12 inches deep and nearly perpendicular; y,
plants with roots properly disposed in the trench; 4%, soilremoved
from and afterwards returned to the trench.
D, planting on prepared trenched ground where the soil is solid and
clayey: 7, drain pipe with proper fall and outlet; m, bottom
spit soil broken up with a fork and left there, but mixed with
manure; ”, second spit soil turned, and decayed manure and
gritty matter intermixed ; 0, top spit soil turned upside down as
in ciseinS 3 p, natuial stratum; g, Brier properly planted; 1,
mulch,
PLANTING AND PRUNING ROSE HEDGES. 73
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 34.—PLANTING AND PRUNING ROSE HEDGES.—IL
EK, part of a hedge of Sweet Brier: s, plants untrimmed in the season
of growth, a plan sometimes adopted in the first season ; ¢, points
of pruning to ensure a compact and branched habit; w, plants
that have had the tops cut off at an even height, and straggling side
growths shortened regularly in July or early August, thus
inducing a compact growth.
F, end of a hedge of Sweet Brier in bloom, indicating the desirable
formation which is secured by shortening straggling side growths
and topping upright growths during the growing season.
G, one year old plant of Scotch Rose, Rosa spinosissima, from a
cutting: », roots; w, depth of planting; 2, top, usually not
requiring shortening.
H, hedge of Scotch Rose in flower, the sides being trimmed to form a
shape about twice as wide at the bottom as at the top of the
hedge.
I, end of Scotch Rose hedge of natural formation, only the irregu-
larities of growth being removed as desired for symmetry.
74 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
(Continued from page 70.)
back is not advisable. Thinning may be resorted to if the trees
threaten to become crowded, and in this case the oldest wood
may be cut right out to give room for new wood, which will
bloom well when mature.
Pruning Crimson Rambler Rose.
The immense popularity of Crimson Rambler renders a few
words on its management obligatory.
There is reason to fear that the wonderful luxuriance of this
grand Rose will lead to cultural neglect. It will. be regarded as
capable of looking after itself. So it is, if it is given an open
situation and deep, fertile soil. But that is not to say that it
may not be improved by skilled attention.
The freedom of growth which characterises Crimson Rambler
may easily be its bane, for it tends, by the accumulated shoots
of years, to become a thicket. The old wood, which has flow-
ered once, twice, or more, becomes weak, and the young growth,
which gives the finest flowers, has not sufficient space to develop
and ripen.
Anyone who makes a beginning with a young plant which
has only one shoot should cut it down close to the ground. A
new shoot will push strongly, and may be lightly shortened the
following spring.
In the second season, if not the first, flowering side shoots
will break freely, and at the same time young growths will
spring up from the base, which will bloom the following year.
If the soil is good, and the plant healthy, shoots will push
up from the base every year, and it is the business of the grower
to take advantage of this fact, and thin out periodically old
canes which have done duty, taking care, of course, to retain a
few canes in aripe, flowering state.
(References to Fig. 35, page 75.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 35.—PRUNING CRIMSON RAMBLER.
@, a tree at the third winter pruning after planting: 0, point of cutting
down a one shoot plant in spring after planting, and only one shoot
retained in the following summer; yp, point of shortening the shoot
produced in the preceding summer; q, flowered shoots; 7, young shoots
for furnishing the space evenly. In this case the flowered
branches are shown shortened to within about two buds of
their .base, this being advisable where there is a great deficiency
of young shoots from the bottom of the stem and along it. Where
there is a fair supply of young wood it is not advisable to prune
very closely, but to leave about three good buds, as shown in the
flowered shoot ats. With plenty of young shoots the best plan is to
PRUNING CRIMSON RAMBLERS. 75
(References continued from page 74.)
cut all the flowered shoots off close to the stem and shorten this to the
first young shoot.
H, a tree on the low pillar or stake system: ¢, point of cutting down a one
shoot plant to originate strong growths, ‘l'hree or four usually result,
but only two are retained, the others being cut back to a bud or two, as
it is always advisable to have dormant buds at the collar of the plant ;
u, point of shortening the two strong shoots, always to well matured,
dormant wood buds; v, flowered branches; w, points of cutting them
away either in the first or second winter after flowering; z, points of
spurring if retarded a second year; y, young shoots encouraged from
the base for flowering another season ; z, points of shortening.
76 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
If there is abundance of strong young wood, and plenty of
room for it to grow and ripen, the flowered side shoots on the
ripe wood may be cut clean out; but if there is any deficiency
they may be spurred back to two or three eyes, in order to secure
fresh flowering growths from the same cane.
Unless young, ripe, flowering canes are scarce, it is not
advisable to bloom a mature cane more than twice, and it is
particularly necessary to guard against a tree becoming a
thicket of old, gnarled, barkbound wood.
The pruning of pot Roses will be dealt with in a special
chapter on pot Roses.
Chapter 10.—The Enemies of Roses.
Ir would add to the comfort of the Rose grower if he could
feel that, having well performed his duty in the planting and
(References to Fig. 36, page 77.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 36—ATTACKS OF CATERPILLARS AND GRUBS ON ROSES.
A, growth completely fastened together by the threads and overspread by the
web of the caterpillars from which develops the Small Ermine Moth,
Hyponomeuta padella, as found on the Dog Rose in spring, two-thirds
natural size: a, web, forming a so-called web-nest in which the cater-
pillars lurk and eat, destroying the young growths, then migrating to
other shoots, and so on until full fed; 4, caterpillar, a great number of
which passed out of the web-nest while being sketched.
B, an attack by caterpillars that live between leaflets united by threads of
silk, and when disturbed let themselves to the ground by a silken cord.
They often fold the leaves over the flower bud and injure, if not destroy,
it. Amongst these enemies are the caterpillars of the Geometer Moth,
Cidaria fulvata; and the Winter Mcth, Cheimatobia brumata, also many
species of Tortricina, such as Lozotoenia Rosana, Croesia Bergmanniana,
and Peronea variegana: ¢, leaves folded over the bud; d, infested flower —
bud; e, folded leaflet ; f, suspended caterpillar.
C, a leaf infested by Rose Slugs, the larve of the Rose Slug Sawfly, —
Eriocampa Rosz: g, Rose Slugs; h, patches where the upper skin of the
leaflet has been eaten away, the affected leaves turning brown, and the
whole tree, in bad cases, having a scorched appearance.
D, an attack by the Rose Leaf Sawfly, Hylotoma Rose: 4, caterpillar undis-
turbed; 7, attitude of caterpillars when disturbed. }
E, an attack by the caterpillars of the Sawflies Blennocampa pusilla and
Emphytus cinctus: 4. the work of Blennocampa pusilla, the larvae
4
q
N:P a
—=——- a
OATERPILLARS AND GRUBS ON ROSES. 77
(References continued from page 76.)
turning up or down the sides of the leaflets and living protected in these
retreats; /, injury caused by Emphytus cinctus, the larvae of which feed
on the edges of the leaflets, and when at rest live curled up in a ball on
the lower srrface of the leaflets; m, larva of Stem-borer Sawfly,
Peecilosoma candidatum, which bores into the pith of growing shoots of
Roses in May and June, causing the Jeaves to wither.
F, an attack of Rose Caddice Fly, Lyda inanita: n, folded leaves; 0, tubular
sack formed of fragments of Rose leaves arranged spirally, in which the
larva lives ; p, larva or caterpillar.
78 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
pruning of his Roses, he had done all that was necessary to
secure them long life and robust health.
Unhappily, this is not the case. There is a horde of
voracious enemies to reckon with.
It is a little hard on the grower to have to wage a constant
battle against insects and fungi. He is not unnaturally in-
clined to think that he has a grievance, and that Nature is
rather unkind to him. Well, we must take her as she is
because we cannot alter her. If she spared us the orange
fungus‘and grubs we should be very grateful to her; but she
does not, and there is an end of it. There is, however, one ~
thing to be said—the better we grow our plants the less trouble
we shall have. Strong Roses, growing vigorously in well-
trenched, well-manured soil, are never so badly pestered as
weak bushes, struggling for bare life in poor, hungry ground.
It may be well to take the worst enemies of Roses one at a
time and give a little consideration to their mode of attack and
methods of prevention.
Rose Slugs.
The small caterpillars of Eriocampa Rose attack the upper
skin of the leaves, and cause them to become patchy. Some-
times the leaves are completely skeletonised. The attack may
be checked by hand picking, or by spraying with soaparite
(see page 84), or by dusting with Hellebore powder (see page 84).
Rose Sawflies.
The caterpillar of the sawfly, Blennocampa pusilla, is an all
too familiar enemy. The Rose grower observes the leaves of
his plants curl, and on examination finds a small caterpillar
snugly ensconced in the enclosure. If he be made of common
human clay, nothing satisfies him except crushing the lurking
enemy with his finger and thumb, and, as a matter of fact, per-
sistence in this somewhat bloodthirsty method of clearance is
about the best course which could be pursued.
Small Ermine Caterpillar.
This, like the caterpillar of the Lackey moth, is most often
found on fruit trees, colonising in a web-nest, but it sometimes
spreads to Roses. The colony should be brushed out of the
tree before it has time to get into active operations, and
destroyed.
Leaf-binding Caterpillars.
One of the worst of these is the caterpillar of the Geometer
moth, which binds the leaflets together, and if disturbed makes
for the earth on the end of a thread. Fourteen stone of
humanity applied to him directly he gets there has been known
to have a soothing effect. This pest, and other caterpillars
4
.
VARIOUS ENEMIES OF ROSES. 79
that operate similarly, should be searched for in the bound
and rolled leaves. Or the bushes may be sprayed with Paris
Green (see page 84).
Leaf-eating Caterpillars.
One of the most troublesome of these is Emphytus cinctus,
which feeds upon the edges of the leaves. It may be cleared
off by handpicking, or Paris Green may be applied.
Stem-boring Grub.
The larva of Pecilosoma candidatum is happily not a
common enemy, for his method of attack is insidious. He eats
his way into the young shoots. These may be cut off and
burnt, but converting the grub into ashes does not altogether
compensate for the loss of promising shoots.
Rose Caddice Fly.
The larva of Lyda inanita forms for himself a comfortable home
by spirally arranging fragments of Rose leaves. Housing
plans of this sort should be foiled by a vigorous pressure.
Leaf-cutter Bee.
The grower sometimes finds holes in otherwise sound and
healthy leaves, cut with remarkable evenness. These are the
work of the leaf-cutter bee, Magichile centuncularis. She uses
the parts removed for lining her nest. Unless her operations
are very extensive little harm is done; if they become de-
structive, the bee or her nest must be sought for and destroyed.
Aphis or Fly.
Greenfly is a great enemy of Roses, especially in a dry
spring. In the absence of heavy rain a vigorous hosing is
advisable. Or the bushes may be sprayed with soaparite.
Rose Bedeguar.
This is a curious moss-like growth, in reality a gall, pro-
tecting the larve of the fly Rhodites Rose. It is not usually
present in dangerous numbers, but may be cut off to prevent
spreading. .
Red Spider.
This does not, as a rule, trouble Roses very much, but
is apt to cause damage when the plants are suffering from
drought, especially in the case of Crimson Rambler. Growers
of this Rose should avoid shallow, hungry soils in dry positions.
Moisture, which encourages vigorous, healthy growth, will
keep red spider at bay.
80 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Rose Grub.
The larva of Tortrix Bergmanniana is a common pest on
Roses late in spring. It must be checked by handpicking.
Mildew.
Rose mildew, the fungus Sphezrotheca pannosa, is one of
the many pests of Roses. It attacks plants both in the open
air and under glass, covering them with a whitish down, and
causing loss of foliage and general ill-health.
Mildew is not usually a source of serious trouble on out-
door Roses when the soil is deeply and well cultivated, and
the plants are well fed. Yet unkindly weather may predispose
them to attack.
Plants under glass are almost sure to be affected if cold
draughts blow on them, and not a few cultivators screw down
their ventilators late in summer in order to prevent any
risk of an attack from this source.
The favourite remedy for mildew is flowers of sulphur,
which is usually dusted on by hand. It is often effectual,
especially if applied during an early stage of the attack.
Those persons who have many Roses would do well to procure
a pair of Malbec bellows from the florist or sundriesman, as
with their aid the sulphur (which may with advantage be
mixed with one-third of lime) can be thoroughly distributed,
both on the under and upper surface of the leaves.
A modern remedy for mildew which is worthy of mention
is liver of sulphur (sulphide of potassium). Half an oz. of this
ill-smelling substance may be dissolved in 13% gallons of hot
water and sprayed on.
Orange Fungus or Red Rust.
When the experienced Rose grower observes orange-yellow
spots on the leaves of his plants in early summer he knows
that he sees the advance guard of the fungoid disease known
variously as orange fungus and red rust.
Some suppose these to be separate diseases; on the con-
trary they are separate stages in the triune life-cycle of one
disease, Phragmidium subcorticatum. The first, or Avcidium,
stage, gives the orange fungus; the second, or Uredo stage,
(References to Fig. 37, page 81.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW° WORDS.
FIG. 37.—MILDEW ON ROSES.
A, affected growths of Hybrid Perpetual Roses: a, first or summer growth
which has been shortened after flowering to induce vigorous second
growths to push for the second blooming; %, second or so-called
autumnal shoots; ¢, an attack of fungus on the wood; d, leaves infested,
B, the summer form of the fungus, popularly known as mildew: e, the
a
;
MILDEW ON ROSES. 81
(References continued from page 80.)
surface of the leaf; f, the mycelium of the fungus; g, a conidiophore
having conidia or spores, X 300.
O, the winter form of the fungus, a minute, blackish perithecium, immersed
in felted mycelium on the leaves or shoots: A, perithecium; i, append-
ages, X 100.
°
oto Yes, oe
ie \ FL
ap et
D, the breaking up of the perithecium in the spring or early summer: J, the
perithecium broken up in which the ascus has been kept during the
winter ; #, ascus free and discharging spores, X 200.
E, winter spore germinating: /, spore; m, germ tube, X 200.
F', summer spore germinating: n, spore; 0, germ tube, X 300
F
82 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
ene the red rust; the third, or Teleuto stage, gives a black
rust.
Where the orange fungus has obtained a strong hold, and
has caused trouble for several successive years, it cannot be
exterminated at a single attempt. Repeated attacks on it
must be made. Measures may begin by spraying the bushes
thoroughly in spring before growth starts with Bordeaux Mix-
ture (see page 84). When the first signs of the disease appear
in summer spray with Carbam (see page 84), repeating if
necessary. The solution should reach the under as well as the
upper side of the leaves.
_ Any leaves that contain signs of black rust should be burned
in autumn,
Canker in Maréchal Niel.
Canker frequently attacks the plant at the point of union.
It is familiar to growers of Maréchal Niel, both out of doors and
under glass; indeed, so common is it that many look for it
as a natural course, much as they do for canker on a Ribston
Pippin Apple, or for the collapse of branches on a Moorpark
pricot.
Canker frequently attacks the plant at the point of union,
in the case of worked trees, but by no means always; attacks
have been noted on almost all parts of the tree. The cause
is not easy to trace. Members of the old school of pruners
shake their heads at modern long pruning and prophesy canker,
only to find their own lightly pruned trees suffer as badly, or
worse.
In many cases the same predisposing cause as tends to
canker in fruit trees, namely insufficient nourishment, operates,
and in all cases where poverty of soil is suspected good soak-
(References to Fig. 38, page 83.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 38.—-ORANGE FUNGUS ON ROSES.
A, a portion of the growth of a Hybrid Perpetual Rose affected with orange
fungus in several stages. Aicidium stage: a,a large pustule on the
previous year’s wood, which has developed from a minute spot into a
conspicuous, powdery, orange coloured patch. It causes distortion of
the branch in most cases, always a wound; 3, a pustule on the current
year’s wood, generally forming a large patch, and partly girdling the
shoot; c, powdery, orange coloured pustules on the under side of the
leaflets ; d, pale yellowish patches on the upper surface of the leaves,
due to the presence of fungus mycelium in the tissues, and correspond-
ing to the orange patches on the under side; e, a pustule of the fungus
on the petiole of the leaf. All these bear irregularly globose, sometimes
angular by compression, zcidiospores. Uredo stage: f, the under side
of the leaflets with sori or patches of powdery, brick red bodies or
uredospores (indicated by orbicular spots with white centres), and small
ORANGE FUNGUS ON ROSES. 83
(References continued from page 82.)
spots, at first yellowish, then black (indicated by dots), which are
teleutosori ; g, yellowish spots on the upper surface of the leaflet, due to
the mycelium of the fungus in the tissues, and corresponding to the
uredosori on the under side, ‘Teleuto stage: h, leaflets with spots or
sori of teleutospores, scattered or aggregated, orbicular, black, and
minute.
B, Adcidium spores, three as detached and one germinated : i, germ tube, X
300.
©, Uredospores, three detached and one germinated: 7, germ tube, X 300.
D, Teleutospore consisting of several cells, with germination from a cell of
the teleutospore: 4, pro-mycelium ; 7, sporidium, X 300.
84. PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSH GROWING.
ings of liquid manure and a mulch should be supplied. Or a
dressing of artificials may be given. ;
The canker may be cut away with a sharp knife or chisel,
and the wound dressed with Stockholm tar.
That well-known Kentish rosarian, the Rev. H. B. Biron,
has achieved successful results by making a slit in the bark
4 to 4 inch deep, right through ite canker wound, beginning
well above it and finishing well below. This is done in spring,
at an early stage of the disease. The wound gapes, fresh bark
forms, and the sap again flows strongly.
Washes for Insects and Fungi.
Bordeaux Mizxture.—To prepare Bordeaux Mixture take
23 lb. of sulphate of copper Soe
Dissolve in a little hot water ... ,
° -.1.,, | Pour together when cool; stir
23 Ib. of freshly burned lime. Dissolve |~ 41, treacle or soft soap well
in, and make up to 25 gallons
with water.
in cold water... wae
1 lb. of agricultural treacle
Slama Ne
or
1 lb. of soft soap ... Sas ies coe
Carbam.—To prepare carbam tak
1 oz. of carbonate of copper
4 pint of liquid ammonia...
Dissolve the carbonate of copper
in the ammonia, and mix with
10 gallons of water.
Hellebore Powder.—This may be procured from chemists or
horticultural sundriesmen. It is usually dusted over the
bushes in a finely ground state, while they are damp. As a
solution, 1 oz. and an equal quantity of size may be dissolved
in 1 pint of hot water, and this mixed thoroughly when cold in
1 gallon of water.
Paris Green.—This arsenical compound may be prepared as
follows: Take
1 oz. of Paris Green paste =... hae well, and keep stirred while
2 oz. of soft soap ... in use
20 gallons of water re? as
Soaparite—To make soaparite take
1 lb. of soft soap ... { Boil well for half an
13 pints of soft water hour Pour the mixture into a tub
containing ten times its
: Stir into the above ;
4 pint of petroleum divgetly it is taken | quantity, of water, and
(** paraffin ’’) off the fre churn with a syringe.
(References to Fig. 39, page 85.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 39.—CANKER IN MARECHAL NIEL.
A, aplant infected in various parts: a, an attack below ground at the point
of budding; 4, canker on the stem above ground; ¢, an attack on a
branch; d,a branch which has collapsed through being girdled by canker,
B, the first appearance of canker on a stem or branch: e¢, canker, :
C, a branch from which a canker patch has been cut clean off to sound bark:
f, the wound, which has been dressed with Stockholm tar thinned to a
paint-like consistency with paraffin oil.
OANKER ON MAREOHAL NIEL. 85
(References continued from page 84.)
D, the effect of cutting off a canker patch: g, growth of new bark at the
circumference of the wound,
E, the Rev. H. B. Biron’s mode of curing canker: /, canker on the stem at
the collar of the plant; i and J, slit made vertically through and continued
above and below the canker; /, canker on a branch; /, slit made through
the canker.
F, result of cutting through the canker patches: m, the slit, which has
opened and fresh bark formed at the edges; m, point from which new
roots are often emitted ; 0, aslit on a branch which has opened and fresh
bark formed at the edges of the cut; py, a vigorous shoot which has
pushed.
86 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Roses with Green or Blind Centres.
These troubles can hardly, with perfect consistency, be
included amongst Rose enemies, inasmuch as they are not the
work of insects or fungi. They are, however, very real.
Roses frequently come with green centres when the plants
are unhealthy or weak, rarely when they are vigorous and
sound. The remedy, therefore, lies in improved cultivation.
Those who treat soil and plants on the lines laid down in
previous chapters will not, it is hoped, have much disappoint-
ment on this score.
“Blind” Roses, that is blooms which appear to become
petal-bound in the centre while still in the bud stage, and
unable to open, are, unhappily, common in town gardens after
the first year or two of their existence. Roses are not town
plants, and dislike an impure, fog-and-acid-laden atmosphere.
The townsman should not run the risk of almost certain failure
by growing a large number of Roses, but should carefully
choose a few; then, with good culture, he may achieve success-
ful results.
Chapter: 11.—Bow to Exhibit Roses.
WHEN the Rose grower becomes an exhibitor he develops into
a rosarian.
It would be futile to moralise on the hollowness of the
reasons by which the great metamorphosis comes about.
(References to Fig. 40, page 87.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.— PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 40.—EXHIBITING ROSES.—I. STANDS AND BOXES.
A, Dean Hole’s box—lath system for tubes instead of holes: a, back
(7 inches deep); 4, front (5 inches deep); c¢, laths (# inch in depth and
13 inch in width); d, crosspiece of wood (one at each end and another
in the centre, fixed 2 inches below the surface of the box); ¢, upper and
lower laths fixed 4 inch within the box; f, interstices 1¢ inches in width
for the tubes; g, other interstices 14 inches wide ; 2, space 1} inches deep
between the laths and the upper edge of the box for receiving moss; 4,
edge.
B, a section of Dean Hole’s Rose box with laths for tubes in steps: y, front
(5 inches deep); 4%, back (7 inches deep); 7, crosspiece to support the
laths (one piece at each end and another in the middle); m, laths; n,
tubes ; 0, }-inch interstices; py, 1}-inch interstices. Lid: g, front
STANDS AND BOXES FOR EXHIBITING ROSES. 87
(References continued from page 86.)
(8 inches in depth); 7, back (6 inches in depth); s, beading 4 inch from
the bottom of the lid. Sug
©, section of Dean Hole’s Rose box with laths on an incline: ¢, clear space
below the laths; «, covering of brown paper, the sheets two deep and
cut to fit the box; v, space for filling with moss.
TM
) bl MIMD
D, a show box as usually supplied by horticultural sundriesmen, made of
best yellow deal, dovetailed, painted green, and fitted with iron corners
and water tubes at prices, about (each) : For twelve blooms, 17s, 6d.; for
eighteen blooms, 23s. 6d.; for twenty-four blooms, 28s, 6d,
E, a show box fitted with two show boards.
F, a show board or stand for twelve blooms.
ee
88 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Sufficient is it that they are securely rooted in the national
character, and are therefore unchangeable.
A man grows Roses thoroughly well for twenty years of his
life, but does not exhibit; he remains a grower. In the
twenty-first year, with the bulk of his Roses worse than they
have been during any year in his two decades of experience,
he wins a fourth prize in a class for six at the National Show ;
straightway he becomes a rosarian.
As a mere grower this person may lift voice or pen as he
will ; it is all in vain; in Rose circles he is a nonentity. That
magical prize card gives him eloquence and wisdom and
power ; he is a rosarian !
Let us recognise the futility of protest or jibe, accept things
as they are, and pass on. There comes a time in the life of
every man when ambition rears its head. He yearns to soar
to the heights of fame; how can it be done?
In the first place, let him become a member of the National
Rose Society. The mere fact of membership acts as a spur.
People learn that he is a member, and look upon him as a
superior being. In a word, he has something to live up to.
In the second place, let him devote a few hours to visiting
the leading exhibitions. This will give him a still further
stimulus. He will see what other people do, and the fire of
emulation will burn fiercely. He will learn points about the
standard of quality in flowers, about setting them up, about -
show boards, about cups and tubes, and other practical matters.
In the third place, strengthen the collection. In gathering
hints one summer to be put into force the next, realise the
great fact that although little matters in arrangement and set-
ting up have weight, the real factor is the quality of the
blooms. Strengthen the collection. Strengthen it in numbers,
in variety, in novelties, in culture.
In, the fourth place, procure the various mechanical
(References to Fig. 41, page 89.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS,
FIG. 41—EXHIBITING ROSES.—II. CUPS AND TUBES.
G, common zinc cups and tubes: w, cup (usual form, 2 inches wide); #, cup
(ordinary funnel shaped); y, tube; z, cupand tube fitted; «a, cup; 4,
tube ; ¢, clip for zinc tube (the clip affixed to the show board); d, the
clip holding the tube.
H, Beckett’s zinc cups and tubes: e, cup; f, tube; g, cup and tube fitted; h,
a Rose set up in Beckett’s extending cup and tube.
I, support (galvanised wire) for fixing into the tube and holding the bloom.
J, Springthorpe’s cup and tube: ¢, cup (this has a brass side spring for en-
abling the exhibitor to adjust the flower quickly and securely in the
tube); j, end of tube showing the method of fixing the flower stem (the
tube having also one brass side spring, which passes through a flange
fixed to the show board from the under side, thus enabling the exhibitor
OUPS AND TUBES FOR EXHIBITING ROSES. 89
(References continued from page 88.)
to raise the bloom 7 inches from the show board, with instant adjust-
ment); #, show board.
'K, Foster’s Rose tubes, zinc, fitted with supports: 7, cup; m, tube; 2,
support,
L, Foster’s galvanised wire support for a specimen bloom.
M, Tidy’s telescope cup and tube: 0, cup; p, tube; g, lengthening tube
with a screw at the side to secure the tube at the desired height; r, the
socket fixed to the show board with a screw to adjust the lengthening
tube as desired; s, the cup and tube; ¢, the show board.
90 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
appliances early. It is dangerous to leave the duty of pro-
curing shades for the flowers until they are being battered and
blown and burnt by shower and sun. It does not conduce to
ease of mind to discover, forty-eight hours before the show,
that although the box is ready the tubes are missing. Boxes
and tubes should be prepared in winter.
Exhibition Boxes.
Fig. 40 will give some very useful information about show
boxes, and it may be briefly supplementéd. The following
table gives the standard sizes :—
Number of Height at Height in
: back.
flowers.
Collections of thirty-six, forty-eight, and seventy-two may,
of course, be made up from the foregoing sizes. It will be
seen that the boxes are uniform in breadth and height. The
lids should be 6 inches high at the back and 8 inches at the
front, making a uniform height, when the boxes are closed, of
13 inches. The material used may be 2-in. yellow pine painted
green.
Perhaps the commonest form of stand is that in which holes
are provided for the reception of the tubes. An alternative
plan is the employment of laths, which have the advantage
that the flowers may be spaced laterally. Moreover, the lath
stand is lighter than the other. The laths are fitted length-
wise, and accommodate three parallel rows of flowers. Thick
brown paper is spread over them, surfaced with fresh green
moss.
Cups and Tubes.
The support for a Rose in an exhibition stand is usually in
two parts, a cup and a tube, the former open at the bottom, the
latter closed, and holding water. The cup being of slightly
smaller diameter than the tube, fits in it, and may be pulled
up, or pressed down, as required. Both are of zinc.
he ordinary cup-and-tube combination is usually 44 inches
long and 2 inches wide at the top. It is cheap and handy, but
there are several improved forms on the market, which, though
costing rather more, are desirable, because they are steadier
,. Laie. —
SHADES AND SHELTERS FOR PRIZE ROSES. 91
than the simple old form, and enable the flowers to be adjusted
to a greater nicety.
Foster’s cup and tube (see K, Fig. 41) find favour with many
exhibitors. A coiled wire support is provided, which may be
pressed into the cup, higher or lower as required, cannot slip,
and holds the flower firmly. rnd
Beckett’s cup is also fitted with a coil wire support. It
is an excellent article.
Springthorpe’s cup-and-tube device is very popular. It
has a side spring to hold the bloom.
In Tidy’s tube the arrangement is telescopic, and a small
side screw holds the tube when raised or lowered to the de-
sired height.
There is not a great deal to choose between these devices.
Some exhibitors like one, and some another. They can be
procured, as a rule, from florists and seedsmen, or from horti-
cultural sundriesmen advertising in the gardening papers.
Shades and Shelters.
It is scarcely necessary to say that the weather is a very
important factor in connection with Rose showing. What
does it not affect, from great cricket matches to school treats?
To grow fine Roses is good, but it is not always enough ; they
must be at their best at a given time if prizes are to be won.
Heavy showers and blazing sun often cause the young
exhibitor anxiety. Rain may dash, damage, and spoil the
finest flowers; hot sun may burn the colour out of them.
For this reason protectors are necessary. Rosarians fre-
quently contrive their own, and it is on record that when the
Rose season approaches one famous exhibitor regularly hies
to a railway lost luggage sale and buys up a stock of ancient
umbrellas! Something smaller, neater, and less liable to be
blown to smithereens by a summer gale is perhaps advisable
in a general way.
Zinc caps make excellent protectors. The first cost may be
rather greater than that of a paper or cloth cover, but the
caps are durable. The cap is provided with a socket, which
slides up and down a stake, and is fixed in the required posi-
tion by small wedges. Care should be taken not to have it
so close that the bloom comes into contact with it when
moved by the wind.
Selecting and Arranging Flowers.
The exhibitor should go over his flowers on the evening before
the show day and select a number of promising blooms. The
flowers should have so far passed the bud stage that the outer
petals are half open, but any that show the slightest tendency
to being, or shortly becoming, blown must be rejected.
9)
=<
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
FIG. 42.—PRIZE ROSES GROWN IN A BACKYARD.
(I “adoyo aS) ‘SHSOU LOd JO ASNOH ‘NIM
“py ‘hundmog 9 nassno
94 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Round the centre of each selected flower carefully fasten a
piece of raphia, which may remain until the flowers are
arranged in the stand. Always take more flowers to the show
than are required for the stand, in order to be able to make
a choice when setting-up time comes, but if there are two
blooms of one variety, watch them carefully ; they have a nasty
way of sneaking in and getting you disqualified for duplicating.
The old parliamentary hand is great on getting a strong
back row. He knows that substance there, combined with
freshness, catches the judge’s eye quickly. The heaviest
flowers should go to the back.
While, however, weight is regarded, and rightly regarded, as
a point, symmetry and freshness must never be overlooked.
A blown flower must be rigidly excluded. It might find favour
with Mr. Broad Beans at the rural show, but try it on, under
the encouragement afforded by the estimable Mr. Beans, at
the National, and a catastrophe will ensue.
If with youth and freshness you can unite size, it is well, for
in the Rose tent, as on the turf, the old trainers dictum
holds the sway, “A good big ’un will always beat a good little
Realty e3
Chapter 12.—Roses in Pots.
It has been urged against the Rose, by those outside her
charmed circle, that she is a short-lived beauty, whose season
is gone almost as soon as it comes.
_Were this true, Rose worshippers would be Rose worshippers
still. They would tell you that an hour with a queen was better
far than eons with a scullerymaid, and keep the flame of their
affection strong and pure from one season of flowering to
another.
But itis not true. Time was when the reproach carried some
weight. We grew little or nothing but Hybrid Perpetuals, and
for most of the year they were flowerless, but in these latter
(References to Fig. 44, page 95.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 44.—-SHADES FOR SHOW ROSES.
A, Dean Hole’s zinc cap or helmet, 8 inches in diameter and 6 inches in
depth: a, ventilation openings; 4, socket; ¢, stake; d, wooden wedges,
SHADES FOR SHOW ROSES. 95
(References continued from page 94.)
B, dish-cover shaped zinc shade, 1 foot in diameter and 6 inches in depth:
¢, », inch galvanised iron # inch wide; /f, socket (the opening 1 inch in
diameter); g, bolt and nut by which the shade is fixed to the arm, the
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bolt being soldered to the cap inside so as to prevent drip; A, stake;
i, wooden wedges.
O, horseshoe shaped zinc shade, 1 foot long and 6 inches deep: J, the socket
with 4-inch iron arm } inch wide riveted to the zinc; 4%, stake; 4,
wooden wedge.
D, bloom protector as sold by horticultural sundriesmen for shielding speci-
men Roses.
96 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
days a host of lovely Teas and Hybrid Teas have sprung into
being, which bloom uaweariedly for months together.
Moreover, the culture of Roses in pots has extended, and
so we find that we can get Roses in winter and in spring, in summer
and in autumn.
Every large establishment ought to have its Rose house, and
every greenhouse ought to contain a pot or two of Roses. The
culture routine is simple, and a few pretty buds in spring are
always welcome. .
What and When to Buy.
Buy young plants always. The best of growers cannot main-
tain the vigour of Roses which have been subjected to forcing
unimpaired for many years. Young plants are best, and it is
not at all a bad plan to buy them a year old from the bud.
Roses in pots may be bought at any period of the year.
Autumn is perhaps the best, as good plants are tolerably certain
then. If there is a sheltered place at command, the plants will
do out of doors with the pots plunged in ashes, but in cold places
if is wise to winter the plants in a cool house, pit, or frame, if
such a convenience is at command.
Many people pot Roses from their own gardens; the time
for this is October.
Pots, Soil, and Drainage.
In starting the pot culture of Roses, a common mistake is
to use very large pois. ~ Six-inch (82’s) are generally quite large
enough for young plants. Ifa very strong plant were purchased
or lifted, with a large ball of soil and roots, it might have a
7- or 8-inch. For soil, a staple of turfy loam is very desirable.
There is nothing to beat it, if, indeed, to equal it. It is cheap-
est to buy turf and stack it grass side downwards for a year, with
a coat of decayed cow manure between each two layers of turf.
If this is chopped down, and a tenth part of sand added, it will
make a splendid mixture. For drainage, place a large crock
or oyster shell over the hole, cover this with smaller pieces
pp ie overlapping, and these in turn with a 4-inch thickness
of moss.
Roots and Potting.
Snip off the ends of any roots that are broken, but if the root
structure is fibrous do not otherwise reduce it. If the fibres
have to be coiled a little in the pot it will not matter. If the
root area is confined to two or three strong fangs, it will be
necessary to shorten them. In potting, it is advisable to make
the soil very firm. Note the point where the plants have been
worked on to the stock, and so arrange matters that it is just
below the surface of the soil when the potting is finished.
Keep the plants in a shady place for a few days, and maintain
PRUNING BUSH ROSES IN POTS. 97
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 45.—ROSES IN POTS.—I. BUSHES.
A, a one year old plant from a bud or graft, showing potting: a, drain-
age; 6,alayer of the rougher parts of the compost; ¢, soil; d, roots,
Pruning: e, points of shortening to two buds when the upper ones on
the shoots begin to swell.
B, a two years old plant in the second season after being put into a larger sized
pot, the plant being turned out, some of the old soil removed, and the
* coiled roots widened out: f, drainage; g, rough soil; A, soil; i, space for
water; j, shoots pruned to two buds each, not counting the small basal
ones; , growths which have flowered; 7, second growths, from which
the buds should be removed to prevent a second flowering.
C, bush in the third year’s bloom or the second season after potting: m,
blooms. Section of pot showing top-dressing when it is not desirable to
repot: m, drainage, which must always be seen to and rectified if
defective : 0, undisturbed soil and roots; y, a top-dressing of rich com-
post, a corresponding portion of soil having been removed previously ;
g, space for water. “
Nore.—Sometimes the one year old plant from the bud has only one
shoot, with some second growths. In this case put it into a 6-inch pot, and
cut it down to three buds, then in the following season it will make three
shoots, and probably flower and produce second growths, as at #, / in A,
Shift it into an 8-inch pot, and another year there will be the plant B. In
the third year there will be the plant OQ, either by top-dressing or shifting
into a larger pot.
G
98 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
the soil just moist, but not sodden: root action will then quickly
commence. Should the weather be hot, light syringings will be
beneficial. The plants may be placed in their winter quarters
directly potting is complete.
How to Prune for Bushes.
The time of pruning must depend upon when the plants are
desired to bloom. If the plants are to be forced into flower in
February, pruning must be done in November, and the plants
started in a warm house. If they are to come steadily and
naturally into bloom in a cool house, the pruning may take place
as soon as the buds are seen to be swelling. This, it is under-
stood, if the plants are, as they should be if they have been out
of doors during winter, put under glass at the time of pruning.
It would not be safe if they were to be left out. If a start is
being made with one year old plants, the first pruning may be
to two buds. Inthe case of cut-backs (that is, plants which have
been previously pruned) the shoots may be shortened, the weak-
est to two buds, the strongest to three buds. This pruning re-
duces the plants to mere stumps, but they soon break vigorously
in a temperature of 45° to 55°, and become well furnished with
shoots, foliage, and flowers.
Plants in Bloom.
With plenty of air in fine weather, and due attention to
watering, pot Roses do not, as a rule, give much trouble. It
should be noted, however, that overwatering is easy. When
pot plants bloom in late winter or early spring the air is cool, and
there may be very little sun. Daily watering may or may not
be necessary. The only guide is the state of the soil, and that
can be ascertained by rapping the pot, which will emit a hollow,
ringing sound if the soil is dry. Syringing is good in dry
weather. Occasionally mildew or some other fungus will attack
the plants, or green fly may put in an appearance. In this case
bring into play one of the various remedies mentioned in a previous
chapter.
After Flowering.
The plants will be better in the open air than under glass
during the summer, but they must not be turned out directly
they have finished flowering if the weather is very cold, as the
sudden change from warm quarters might do them great injury.
When the time. does come, find them a sunny spot where they
will be out of the way, and plunge the pots in ashes, which will
serve the double purpose of reducing the necessity for watering
by keeping roots and soil cool and keeping out worms. The
plants will very likely show bud again towards autumn, but it
is not advisable to let them bloom; therefore pick off the buds
directly they show.
PRUNING PYRAMID ROSES IN POTS. 99
Repotting.
The plants may be repotted in September, and if they have
rooted well, and are healthy, a size larger pot will be required.
It is wise to have the fresh pots ready washed and drained, and
the compost prepared in advance ; then the potting is quickly
performed. As each plant is turned out, the old soijl should be
carefully worked away from the roots with a blunt stick, and the
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 46.—ROSES IN POTS.—PYRAMIDS.
A, a young plant from the open. Section of pot: a, drainage; 2, soil;
¢, space for water. Plant: d, roots shortened, because strong, long, and
bare, in order to encourage fibres; ¢, point of cutting back the first
growth from the bud to three buds; f, the leading or central shoot cut
back to three buds to secure three shoots, one to be trained upright as a
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leader, and the other two opposite the vacancy of the lower shoots;
. g, Side shoots shortened to two buds each; 4, the first growth of the
previous summer, usually flowering; i, second growths from which
flower buds have been nipped.
B, the plant’A a year older, showing shifting into a larger pot and pruning:
J, drainage; /, rough soil; J, soil; m, space for water; n, ball of soil
and roots, the sides loosened and crocks and loose soil removed ; 0, point
of shortening the leader; p, points of shortening the side shoots;
- 4g, shoots which flowered in the previous summer; r, second growths not
allowed to bloom, but the flower buds pinched off when quite small.
C, the plant B a year older in bloom, the lower growths being tied down and
the others secured to stakes so as to form a symmetrical head and display
the flowers to the best advantage.
100 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
roots examined. Any decaying ones should be cut away, and
the cthers carefully coiled in the new pots. The fresh soil should
then be filled in and made firm by steady, gentle pressure. In
the case of plants which have reached their pot limit, they may
be turned out, the drainage examined and put right if defective,
and sufficient soil carefully removed from the outsides of the old
pene admit of a top-dressing of fresh soil when the plant is put
ack.
Disbudding, Staking, and Feeding.
Plants of three years old and upwards will push a consider-
able number of shoots, but it is wise to thin them when quite
small, leaving a dozen flowering growths at the most. These
may be supported by neat stakes. When the plants show buds
liquid manure may be given, either from natura! sources or in
the shape of pinches of artificials scattered on and watered in.
This feeding is less necessary for young, freshly potted plants
than for old ones merely top-dressed.
Chapter 13.—Sections and Selections.
THE writer on Roses has a kaleidoscopic view of the Rose garden
in all its stages in the course of an afternoon’s work at an essay.
As he touches on the various points in the routine of culture
he sees the russet of autumn, the grey of winter, the green of
(References to Fig. 47, page 101.)
PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS.
FIG. 47.—ROSES IN POTS.—TWINERS.
A, a one year old plant from a cutting properly potted and pruned. Secticn
of pot (8-inch): a, drainage; 8, layer of rough compost; ¢, soil; d,
space for water. Plant: ¢, roots coiled round the inside of the pot,
and soil worked amongst them: f/f, the strongest and leading growth
shortened to two buds; g, side shoots pruned to one bud each when the
. buds begin to swell.
B, a two years old plant (A a year older) shifted into a larger pot (10-inch)
in September, only removing the crocks and loose soil at the sides of the
ball. Section of pot: h, drainage; i, rough compost; 7, soil; %, ball;
1, space for water ; m, points of pruning the long shoots, only removing
immature points or shortening to the length desired; », points of
shortening the weaker shoots, as it is desirable to have the growths of
different lengths for twining round the stakes or trellis, and the larger
ones, as a rule, do not break well at the lower part.
PRUNING TWINING ROSES IN POTS. 101
(References continued from page 100.)
O, a three years old plant coming into flower, the two strongest shoots having
been twined the same way round four stakes, and reaching the same
height, the other two shoots having been coiled round the stakes at the
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lower part of the column, and then secured by fastening the stakes at
the top to a stout wire hoop.
The Climbing Roses are very fine when grown in this manner. After
eg they should be cut down, and strong shoots encouraged from the
ase.
102 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
spring, and the brilliant red of summer. If he be not merely a
Rose writer, but a Rose grower, if he have a home-grown Rose
in his buttonhole, as well as an inexhaustible supply of the finest
medal blooms in his inkpot, he will be happy at every resting
place on his journey. Autumn will have no gloom for him,
winter no chill. He will, however, enjoy most that stage on the
road at which he has to linger among the Roses and describe
their charms and merits.
It is summer time, and the Roses are in bloom. Let us
wander amongst them, picking here, rejecting there. Fragrant
memories of old days among the Roses arise. We look back ten
years, twenty, thirty. Alas and alack! it must be twenty-seven
since I visited my first show—it was at the Alexandra Palace,
unless my memory deceives me—and took down names to help
a busy reporter. Those names come back—Reynolds Hole,
Sénateur Vaisse, Charles Lefebvre, Edouard Morren (dropped
out of the National catalogue, I see), Marie Baumann—these
were amongst them, I remember.
The old Roses awaken the emotion that arises when one
revisits the scenes of boyhood. Poor old Edouard Morren has
passed, and the rosarian of these days knows him not, yet he -
lives enshrined in the perfumed casket of memory.
Joy in the old Roses that still live! Joy in Marie Baumann
joy in Charles Lefebvre! In poring over an old horticultural
tome, a volume of the early ’sixties, I came upon a wonderful
description of anew Rose, sent out by one Lacharme. I cannot
quote the description, it is too long; but it tells of splendid
colour, splendid form, splendid habit, splendid vigour, splendid
perfume. It prophesies universal popularity. It prophesies
fifty years of useful life. The writer—it was A. H. Kent—was
a sound judge and a true prophet. Forty-one years have
passed, and the last edition of the National catalogue says of
Charles Lefebvre: “ One of the best Roses grown.” It is terse,
but what an eloquent tribute to the old Rose, and the old writer !
In the remarks that I propose to make on the various sections
of Roses, I shall not attempt, in a concise, popular work such
as this, a scheme of scientific classification. The reader who is
in search of descriptions of the species may turn to Cassell’s
“ Dictionary of Practical Gardening,” where he will find a large
number described. I shall deal briefly with the principal sec-
tions from a horticultural point of view.
Austrian Briers.
The Austrian Briers of gardens are varieties of Rosa lutea,
an old single pale yellow species which may be seen flowering
in the Rose dell at Kew, near the Pagoda, in June or early July.
There are four met with in gardens—namely, the Copper and
the Yellow, singles; Harrisonii, yellow, double; and the Per-
sian Yellow, semi-double. Old Roses are these. Did not
ae | al es iis
ye
AYRSHIRE AND OTHER~ ROSES. 103
Gerarde grow the Copper and the Yellow more than four hun-
dred years ago? In truth, did he. All bloom on the ripened
shoots of the previous year’s growth, therefore they must not
be cut back in spring, but old, weak wood must be thinned out.’
Ayrshires.
You can have no hardier Roses than the Ayrshires, which are
forms of Rosa repens capreolata (the National, by the way,
sticks to the old name, now considered merely a synonym, Arven-
sis). The Ayrshires grow well on walls, arbours, and old trees.
They bloom in clusters. Bennett’s Seedling, often grown under
the name of Thoresbyana, a white, is perhaps the best known
nowadays, but the old pink-edged Dundee Rambler is not for-
gotten. The Ayrshires must be very little pruned. Thinning
out old flowered wood is all that is necessary.
Banksians.
There are two well-known Banksian Roses, the White, Bank-
sie, and the Yellow. They are strong growers, given a warm,
sheltered wall, but have very small double flowers. No hard
cutting back, if you please, for the Banksians. Do it, and you
get no flowers. Thin, certainly.
Bourbons.
Where do the Bourbons begin, where do they end? When
we learn that the Bourbon Rose is Rosa indica borbonica, a
variety of the China or Monthly Rose, we only learn half the
story. There is Bourbon blood in the Hybrid Perpetuals, with-
out a doubt. The section can never be unimportant while it
contains the dear old Souvenir de la Malmaison, with its wealth
of silvery flowers. Then there is Madame Isaac Pereire; and, if
we stretch a point in a sort of go-as-you-please business, there
are the pretty Blairii No. 2, a rare old climber, and Charles
Lawson, grandest of “specimen” Roses. Best of all, perhaps,
there is Bardou Job, which is flowering gloriously on the wall
of my house at this moment. The National catalogue makes a
H.T. of him. Bardou Job is a very rich Rose, only semi-double,
but a wonderful bloomer.
Boursaults.
A small class, no use for exhibition, but good for growing on
walls, where they give barrowloads of flowers. Think of
Amadis, crimson, and of Gracilis, pink. Thin the wood, no
more.
Briers (Penzance).
With what marvellous patience Lord Penzance must have
worked to evolve these from the Sweet Brier, Rosa rubiginosa!
104 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Their first beauty is in early summer, when the lovely single
flowers clothe the perfumed pillar of growth from top to bottom ;
their second in autumn, when the heps have ripened, and taken
on brilliant hues. )
I have referred to the Penzance Briers under pruning; let
me now tell of a few lovely varieties in my collection. Here
they are :—
Amy Robsart, pink, a charming variety, very fresh and sweet.
Anne of Geierstein, rose, one of the dwarfest as I have it ; very free.
Flora MclIvor, pink, a very beautiful Brier.
Lady Penzance, salmon pink (coppery pink by the National list), very early.
Lord Penzance, white, deepening to buff or fawn, very early.
Lucy Ashton, rose, a free, bright, and handsome variety.
Lucy Bertram, rich rose, wonderfully free, the queen of them all.
Meg Merrilies, pink, a very good Brier.
Rose Bradwardine, pink, fragrant and free.
There are others to be had besides these; get them all.
Grow them, if no better way presents itself, in a bed, each with
a trio of stakes and a square yard of well trenched, well fed
ground.
China or Monthly.
Varieties, these, of Rosa indica, the blood of which flows
through the veins of our noble Hybrid Perpetuals. There are
some old favourites amongst them, to wit, the Old Blush (com-
mon Monthly), Mrs. Bosanquet, and Fellenberg, the last one of
the finest of bedding Roses, as Kew teaches us. Amongst more
modern favourites are Laurette Messimy, rose and yellow, semi-
double; and Madame Eugéne Résal, rose, shaded with orange.
Thinning, and a moderate shortening of soft, unripe wood in
spring, does for these.
Evergreens.
The Evergreens, varieties of Rosa sempervirens, are all very
hardy and strong-growing Roses, well suited for covering walls
where choicer, though less hardy, varieties will not thrive.
Félicité Perpétue, creamy white, may be taken as representative
of the class. Little pruning is wanted.
French.
A small class, of more interest than importance. It gives
us Rosa Mundi (Village Maid), with its pretty striped flowers,
and the York and Lancaster, which is often confounded with
Rosa Mundi, although it is not always striped.
*‘Garden ” Roses.
The National catalogue has two great classes: (1) Exhibition
Roses ; (2) Garden Roses. The sub-sections of the latter are
very numerous, and include most of those named above, to-
gether with many others. The truth is, “garden” Roses is a
A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN ROSE. L05
FIG, 48.—COOLING’S YELLOW NOISETTE, A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN
ROSE.
106 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
very elastic term, for it practically embraces all except the
florists’ varieties seen on the showboard, and even some of them
are in the best sense of the term garden as well as exhibition
Roses.
Every Rose is a “garden” Rose, in the broad meaning of
the term as it is used now, which is many flowered, or cluster
FIG. 49.—SOUVENIR DE CATHERINE GUILLOT, ANOTHER CHARMING
GARDEN ROSE,
flowered, or good for bedding or rambling, or in any_ sense
whatever decorative. From this point of view Cooling’s Yellow
Noisette (p. 105) is a “garden” Rose, so is Souvenir de Catherine
Guillot, so are Bellefleur (p. 107), Claire Jacquier (p. 108), and, indeed,
any and every sort that serves a distinct decorative rather than a
show purpose.
ROSE BELLEFLEOR. 107
Photo: Cassell & Company, Ltd.
FIG. 50.—BELLEFLEUR.
108 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Photo: Cassell & Company, Ltd.
FIG. 51.—CLAIRE JACQUIER.
ROSE HELEN KELLER. 109
Photo: Cassell & Company, Ltd.
FIG, 52.—HELEN KELLER.
110 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
SES
Photo: Cassell & Company, Ltd.
FIG. 53.-—ULRICH BRUNNER.
FRANCOIS MICH ELON. 111
Hybrid Perpetuals,
In this we have the greatest of all classes. Its origin is
“wropt in mistry.” As mentioned in Chapter 4, there has
been a great deal of in-and-out cross-breeding, several species,
or hybrids between species, having been drawn upon by raisers.
Hybrid Perpetuals give us by far the largest proportion of show
Photo: Cassell & Company, Ltd.
FIG. 54.—FRANCOIS MICHELON.
Roses, and also some of the most valuable of garden Roses.
The following selections may be useful : —
Thirty H. Ps for Exhibition—
Abel Carriére, maroon, shaded purple. | Comte de Raimbaud, purplish crimson.
Alfred Colomb, rich red. Duchesse de Morny, silvery.
A. K. Williams, carmine. Duchess of Bedford, crimson,
Camille Bernardin, light crimson. Duke of Wellington, crimson,
Captain Hayward, crimson. Dupuy Jamain, cerise.
112 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSH GROWING.
Thirty H.P.’s for Exhibition (continued)—
Earl of Dufferin, maroon. Margaret Dickson, white.
Etienne Levet, carmine. Marie Baumann, bright red.
Francois Michelon, rose (see py. 111). Merveille de Lyon, white.
Gustave Piganeau, carmine lake. Mrs. John Laing, pink.
Helen Keller, rosy cerise (see py. 109). Mrs. R, G. Sharman Crawford, rose.
Her Majesty, rose. Prince Arthur, crimson,
Horace Vernet, crimson. Suzanne Marie Rodocanachi, pink.
Madame Eugéne Verdier, rose. Tom Wood, brownish red.
Madame Gabriel Luizet, silvery. Ulrich Brunner, cherry (see p. 110).
Marchioness of Londonderry, ivory. Victor Hugo, crimson,
Twelve Good Garden H.P.’s—
Baroness Rothschild, pink, scentless. Madame Victor Verdier, light crimson
Charles Lefebvre, scarlet crimson. Merveille de Lyon, white.
John Hopper, rose. Mrs. John Laing, pink.
Général Jacqueminot, scarlet crimson. Prince Camille de Rohan, maroon.
Jeannie Dickson, silvery rose. Sénateur Vaisse, crimson.
Madame Gabriel Luizet, pink. Ulrich Brunner, cherry.
Hybrid Teas.
This is practically a new class, although one or two oldish
Roses, notably Captain Christy and La France, are included
in it. The section grows yearly in numbers and importance.
It is remarkable for deep, conical or globular flowers, which
possess the delicate colouring of the Teas.
The H.T.’s give us several of our best show Roses, and like-
wise a few varieties which, on account of their vigorous growth
and free flowering, are grand garden sorts.
Twelve H.T.’s for Exhibition—
Bessie Brown, cream (see p. 113), Killarney, soft pink.
Caroline Testout, salmon pink. Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, flesh.
Clara Watson, rose. Marquise Litta, carmine rose.
Gladys Harkness, pink. Mildred Grant, white.
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, pale yellow § Mrs. W. J. Grant, pink (see p. 117).
Lady Battersea, cerise (see py. 114). White Lady, cream.
Sixteen H.T.’s for the Garden—
Antoine Rivoire, pink. La France, silvery pink (see p. 115).
Captain Christy, flesh. Liberty, crimson (see p. 116).
Caroline Testout, salmon pink. Madame Abel Chatenay, rose.
Clara Watson, rose. Madame Cadeau Ramey, deep flesh.
Grace Darling, cream. Madame Jules Grolez, rose.
Gustave Regis, yellow. Madame Pernet Ducher, lemon,
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, pale yellow. Marquise de Salisbury, crimson,
Killarney, soft pink. Mrs. W. J. Grant, pink.
Miniature Provence.
A small but useful class, dwarf growers, and with rosette-like
flowers. De Meawux, rosy lilac, and White De Meaux, white
with a faint tint of pink, are perhaps the most popular.
Moss.
Old favourites, forms of Rosa centifolia muscosa. There
(Continued on page 118.)
BESSIE BROWN.
Photo; Cassell & Company, Ltd.
FIG. 55.- H.T. BESSIE BROWN.
H
114 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING
bhoto : Cassell & bonmange Jegyat.
FIG. 56.—H.T. LADY BATTERSEA.
ad)
re
ec
H.T. LA FRANCE,
FIG. 57.
116 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Photo: Cassell & Company, Ltd.
FIG. 58.—H.T. LIBERTY.
117
GRANT.
J.
W.
M. I us.
SIN
a
S
& Company, Ltd.
Photo; Cassell
. J. GRANT.
MRS
—E.T.
. O9
FIG
118 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
(Continued from page 112.)
are many varieties, from among which the following may be
chosen :—
Baron de Wassenaér, light crimson. Crested, rose.
Blanche Moreau, white. Gloire des Mousseuses, deep blush.
Célina, purplish crimson. Laneli, rosy crimson.
Photo : Cassell &@ Company, Lid.
FIG, 60.—T. BRIDESMAID.
Musk.
A very small and unimportant class. Fringed, white, and ©
Princesse de Nassau, cream, may be selected.
Polyantha.
The Polyantha Roses (descendants of Rosa multiflora) were
until recent years a comparatively unimportant section, but
CATHERINE MERMET. 119
the introduction of Crimson Rambler and its sister varieties has
raised it to a much higher standard. The following are selec-
tions :—
Climbing Polyantha—
Aglaia, pale yellow. Claire Jacquier, nankeen yellow.
Carmine Pillar, carmine (see p. 121). Crimson Rambler, crimson.
FIG. 61—T. CATHERINE MERMET.
Electra, yellow. Leuchtstern, rose (see p. 120).
Euphrosyne, pale pink. Thalia, white.
Dwarf Polyantha—
Anna Maria de Montravel, white. Ma Paquerette, white.
Clothilde Soupert, white, shaded pink. Mignonette, rose.
Little Dot, pink. White Pet, white.
120 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Photo: Cassell & Company, Lid.
FIG. 62.—POLYANTHA LEUCHTSTERN,
—
CARMINE PILLAR.
Photo: Cassell & Company, Ltd.
FIG. 63—POLYANTHA CARMINE PILLAR.
1 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSH GROWING.
i)
bo
Provence. :
The Cabbage Rose is grown in a few gardens to this day,
but modern varieties are squeezing it out of existence.
Teas and Noisettes.
This great class—great in numbers, great in beauty—is
second only to the Hybrid Perpetuals. Nay, is it second?
FIG. 64.—T INNOCENTE PIROLA.
A little tender some of the varieties may be, but withal they
eclipse the H.P.’s as garden Roses because of their wonderful
persistency of bloom. When well grown they are rarely out
of flower from June to November, and the flowers they yield
are charming for cutting in general and for buttonholes in
particular.
(Continued on page 126.)
MAMAN COCHET.
Photo: Cassell & Company, Ltd.
FIG, 65.—T. MAMAN
124 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Photo: Cassell € Company, Ltd.
FIG. 66—T. MURIEL GRAHAME.
: Cassell & Compan
FiG. 67.—T. SYLPH.
126
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
The question of tenderness has its weight, but if soil is
drawn well up round the collars in autumn, and litter is thrust
among the branches in frosty weather, little damage is done.
The Teas and Noisettes give us some of our most valuable
climbing Roses; note Climbing Niphetos and Maréchal Niel.
The following are selections :—
Eighteen Teas for Exhibition—
Bridesmaid, pink (see p. 118).
Catherine Mermet, light rose (see y.119).
Cleopatra, pink.
Comtesse de Nadaillac, flesh,
Ethel Brownlow, rosy flesh.
Madame Cusin, deep rose.
MadamedeWatteville,cream,rose edge.
Madame Hoste, yellow.
Maman Cochet, carmine, salmon
shading.
Twenty-five Teas for the Garden—
Aimée Vibert (N.), white, climbing
Alister Stella Gray (N.), yellow,
climbing.
Anna Olivier, white or buff.
Caroline Kuster, lemon.
Francisca Kriiger, deep yellow.
Gloire de Dijon, buff, climbing.
Homere, rose.
Hon. Edith Gifford, white.
Innocente Pirola, cream (see p, 122),
Jean Ducher, salmon.
L’Idéale (N.), bronzy yellow.
Luciole, pink, shaded cream.
Madame Chédane Guinoisseau,
yellow.
Maréchal Niel (N.), yellow.
Marie van Houtte, yellow, edged rose.
Mrs. Edward Mawley, pink.
Muriel Grahame, cream and rose (see
Niphetos, white. [p. 124).
Souvenir d’ Elise Vardon, white, tinted.
Souvenir de S. A. Prince, white.
The Bride, white.
White Maman Cochet, white, tinted:
Madame Hoste, yellow.
Maman Cochet, carmine, salmon
shading (see p. 123).
Maréchal Niel (N.), yellow.
Marie van Houtte, yellow, edged rose.
Perle des Jardins, strav. ;
Souvenir de J. B. Guillot, salmon
shaded orange.
Souvenir de 8. A. Prince, white.
Sulphurea, cream (see p. 130).
Sylph, white, tinted peach (see p. 125).
The Bride, white. [ (see p. 127).
White Maman Cochet, white, tinted
William Allen Richardson (N.),
copper.
A Selection of Climbing Roses.
Aimée Vibert, white.
Bardou Job, crimson.
Bouquet d’Or, yellow.
Cheshunt Hybrid, cherry.
Climbing Captain Christy, flesh.
Gloire de Dijon, buff (see p. 128)
Maréchal Niel, yellow.
Reine Marie Henriette, red.
Reine Olga de Wurtemburg, red.
William Allen Richardson, copper.
For Large Bushes or Hedges.
Rugosa alba, single white.
Rugosa Blanche Double de Coubert,
semi-double white.
Rugosa Mrs. Anthony Waterer, semi-
double red.
For Trailing over Banks.
Pink Roamer, pink.
Wichuraiana,. white.
' For Bedding.
Augustine Guinoisseau, blush (H.T.).
Caroline Testout, pink (H.T.).
Dr. Grill, copper (T.).
Fellenberg, pink (China).
Francisca Kriiger, copper (T.).
Général Jacqueminot, scarlet crimson
HP.)
Grace Darling, cream (H.T.).
Griiss an Teplitz, scarlet (T.).
Gustave Regis, yellow (H.T.).
(Continued on page 131.)
WHITE MAMAN COCHET
Photo: Cassell & Company, Ltd.
Fig. 68.—T. WHITE MAMAN COCHET
128 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
FIG. 69.--T. GLOIRE DE DIJON.
HIMALAYICA. 129
Photo: Cassell & Company, Ltd.
FIG, 70 -HIMALAYICA,
PRACTICAL ROSH GROWING.
PICTORIAL
130
‘SSUTHINV NAGION dO LdAL IVYLNAO HLIM ALIHM AWVAYO ‘VAUNHAINS—'TL HIT
‘pry ‘hundwop x ass 2020YUT -
MOSS
ROSES. 131
(Bedding loses, continued from page 126.) -
Hon. Edith Gifford, white (T.).
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, pale yellow
a: Se
Liberty, crimson (H.T.).
La France, silvery pink (H.T.).
Madame Abel Chatenay, rose (H.T.).
Madame Jules Grolez, rose (H.T.).
Marie van Houtte, yellow, tinted rose
Cry
Marquise de Salisbury, crimson (H,T ).
Mrs. John Laing, pink (H.P.).
Mrs. W. J. Grant, pink (H.T.).
FIG. 72.-MOSS ROSES.
For Arches and Pillars.
Aglaia, creamy white.
Bardou Job, crimson,
Carmine Pillar, carmine.
Crimson Rambler, crimson
Euphrosyne, pink.
Himalayica, white (se¢ p. 129).
Longworth Rambler, light red.
Rein? Olga de Wurtemburg, red.
Thalia, white.
132 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
For Pots.
Anna Olivier (T.). Madame Montet (H.P.).
Bridesmaid .(T.). Marie van Houtte (T.).
Captain Hayward (H.P.). Mrs. John Laing (H.P.).
Caroline Testout (H.T.). Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford (H.P.).
Catherine Mermet (T.). Mrs. W. J. Grant (H.T.),
Général Jacqueminot (H.P.), Niphetos, (T.).
La France (H.T.) The Bride (T.).
Madame Hoste (T.).
For Standards.
Baroness Rothschild. Marie van Houtte.
Caroline Testout. Mrs. John Laing.
Duke of Edinburgh. Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford,
Général Jacqueminot. Souvenir de 8. A. Prince.
La France. Ulrich Brunner.
Madame Gabriel Luizet. Viscountess Folkestone.
Maman Cochet.
For Hedges.
Rugosa varieties, Scotch. Sweet Briers,
Chapter 14.—Interesting Features of Rose
Gardens.
THE Rose garden of rectangular beds is as much the joy of
many Rose growers as ever it was, but the Rose garden of
varied and picturesque features is growing rapidly in favour.
There is no need to extol the one at the expense of the
other. They have to be regarded from totally different stand-
points. For the exhibitor, who wishes to grow a limited
number of very fine flowers, a series of rectangles, affording
facilities for the ready inspection of every plant—nay, of every
stem and leaf—and for rapid, straightforward cultural opera-
tions, are convenient and suitable. For the decorative gar-
dener beds of various shapes, banks, arches, hedges, and_per-
golas are necessary to get the desired effects. .
Variety of treatment adds immensely to the interest and
beauty of Rose gardens. It gets the grower a little closer to
Nature. True, she does not decorate her demesne with gal-
vanised wire arches at four and sixpence apiece, and it is greatly
to be feared that many evil deeds are perpetrated by the
“natural” gardener. But Roses sprawling along a pergola
certainly have a more natural appearance than a parallelogram
of standards.
ROSE ARBOURS 133
Arbours.
Rose arbours exist in various degrees of offensiveness. The
old type of arbour was an expensive and ornate structure of
carved metal (Fig. 73). It was supposed to be covered, of
course, but somehow it always showed more metal than Roses.
An arbour of knotted, gnarled stems, or even a light construc-
FIG. 73.—-ROSE ARBOURS, OLD STYLE.
tion of poles, is better, if merit is judged, as it should be, by
the nearness with which the object in view is approached. It
is not likely that metal will ever be absolutely driven out of
the Rose garden, but the less it is allowed to triumph over
wood the nearer to nature the Rose garden will get.
As mentioned briefly in a previous chapter, a simple way
of lengthening the duration of wooden supports is to pickle
the base in a bath ot creosote. Or they may be painted with
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
154
‘STALS MIN ‘SUNOAUV ASOU-—‘tl ‘DIA
SUPPORTS FOR PILLAR ROSES. 135
FIG. 75.—SUPPORTS FOR PILLAR ROSES.
The two diagrams given are most useful for pillar Roses,
nn ia
A is made of 38-inch iron rod. It should be constructed in four
pieces, and bolted together at the top.
B, the upright should if possible be tapering—1 inch at the bottom,
diminishing to }-inch at the top; this gives more support, The
rings and stays should be of }-inch iron,
136 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Stockholm tar thinned with petroleum, or with gas tar. The
simplest plan of all, however, is to char them.
Arches.
The wire arch rides rampant in suburban gardens, largely
because it is so much quicker and easier to go to the iron-
monger’s than to hunt the neighbourhood for stems and poles.
Yet a little trouble is often rewarded. Country builders
frequently have stems and boles on the premises, and a casual
visit is repaid by the acquisition of a useful collection of
supports. A couple of stout stems fixed opposite to each other,
and spanned, in an informal sort of way, by smaller pieces,
constitute a far better framework for an arch, in the estimation
of artistic people, than an ironmonger’s erection of galvanised
wire. |
If galvanised wire arches are employed—and they are un-
questionably convenient for town and suburban gardens—the
cheapest qualities should be tabooed, as they are frequently
“ galvanised ” very lightly, and if the metal is exposed the atmo-
spheric acid causes a chemical action, which may act, and in
many cases has acted, prejudicially to the plants. The arches
should be handled carefully. If thrown about and bruised, the
metal is exposed at once.
The arch is the first resource of the gardener who aims at
interesting effects. Many Roses do extremely well on arches,
and in view of the selections given in the previous chapter it
is unnecessary to specify them here. But the arch must not
be the only departure from the rectangles of beds, as it
threatens to be now.
Banks.
In the chapter on soil preparation a method of cultivation was
indicated which renders it easy to perform well a task which
is often done with a great deal of labour, and then badly. It
may now be pointed out that a well-arranged bank of Roses
is capable of giving a very valuable effect ina garden. Pegged-
down Roses, pruned and managed in the way previously ad-
vised, may be utilised to clothe banks. Or the free-flowering
species and “ garden” varieties may be utilised in bold masses,
as at Kew.
If a complete design is wanted for a bank with a gentle
slope, Fig. 76 (p. 137), may be copied. Here there is an opening for a
pretty set of beds. No. 1 might be made to form a charming
centrepiece by inserting rough stems and planting Crimson
Rambler, Bardou Job, or other selected climbers to cover
them. Nos. 2 to 8 may be dwarfs, Nos. 9, 11, and 13 pegged-
down plants, and Nos. 10, 12, and 14 occupied by stumps for
Roses to ramble over. This is merely a suggestion. The plan
might be varied to suit individual taste.
137
ROSES UPON A BANK.
FOR
A DESIGN
“HNVE V NOdN NACUVD ASOU V—"9L ‘HIT
138 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Hedges and Screens.
The culture of the Sweet Brier, and also of the Scotch Rose
to form hedges has been described in Chapter 11. It may.
however, be noted that a “hedge” may be made of almost
i
i ~~
a 5
fh 3
> BER
’
— . a
SS SSS
~ “Se Te =
Vase = eh x =
S wR . ~BLN TY eS RSY ~>
Se. c WR
FIG. 77.—A HOME-MADE HURDLE FOR A ROSE HEDGE.
Tn path)
‘FIG. 78.-THE HURDLE COVERED.
any of the free-growing, rambling varieties. Fig. 77 shows a
rough hurdle, such as is used by Dean Hole, and Fig. 78 shows
it covered with foliage and flowers. Where a screen is wanted
a “hedge” of this nature serves admirably.
PALRGOLAS. 139
Pergolas.
A pergola might be described as a series of connected arches,
were it not for the fact that many pergolas are flat.
There is nothing more beadtitot in a garden than a well-
made and well-covered pergola. If space and material permit
of its being made 50 yards long or more, a great array of lovely
Roses may be grown on it; but even if short it may be made
exceedingly attractive.
FIG. 79.-END ELEVATION OF PERGOLA.
Although there is such a thing as a metal pergola, a
wooden structure is far more ornamental. Rough stems of
various thicknesses are desirable. The base of the uprights
should be creosoted, tarred, or charred, and they should be
inserted about 4 feet apart, but a variation either way is not
essential so long as the structure is made thoroughly strong
and steady. The same consideration governs the depth at
which the posts are put in: 2 to 24 feet is about right.
A flat pergola is at least as expensive as an arched one,
perhaps more so, because it is necessary to carry the posts,
which are the most costly, up to a height of 8 feet If the
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
140
‘VIONUAd JO NVId AGNNOUD—'I8 ‘HIT
AdIs—"08 ‘old
,
A ROSE UMBRELLA. 141
pergola is arched, shorter and cheaper posts may be used, and
the arches constructed of light, inexpensive material. The
width must depend upon the wishes of the owner: 6 to 7 feet
is very suitable.
Seo ati = ee
Photo: Cassell & Company, Lid
FIG. 82.—A ROSE UMBRELLA (see p. 142).
Fig. 80 (p. 140) shows the side elevation of a pergola, with pots,
boxes, or vases in the spaces (b) for the various plants em-
ployed. If, however, the pergola is to be covered entirely
with Roses, they had better be planted out ; and if a trenched,
well-manured station is prepared for each success 1s assured
142 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
Fig. 79 (p. 139) shows the end elevation, and Fig. 81 (p. 140) the
ground plan. In the latter a represents the posts, and 6 the boxes
or vases, if such are employed.
If it is impossible to get stems and posts in sufficient quan-
tity, a pergola may be constructed by settimg ironmonger’s
wire arches 5 feet apart and bracing them with 4-inch parallel
horizontal wires, one at the top, one at the centre, and one
near the ground. Rigidity may be imparted to the structure
by fixing uprights of gas-main pipes at every 6 feet. When
well covered with growths this is not unsightly.
Tree Stumps.
Tree stumps, short or long, look well when clothed with
Roses. An old, weather-worn tree which is condemned may
be so far spared that only the upper parts are cut away, the
bole, and perhaps the principal fork, ane left.
Trellises.
The expanding wooden trelliswork of the suburban garden
makes a comfortable home for Roses. Screwed on to uprights
4 feet apart, provided with a top beading, and painted green,
it makes an admirable screen. ‘This trelliswork is very cheap
and convenient. Varieties like Bardou Job, Alister Stella
Gray, and Homere are quite at home on it.
Umbrellas.
Rose umbrellas are easily provided, given a wire standard
surmounted by a circular wire framework. When well covered
these are handsome objects (see Fig. 82, p. 141).
ROSES IN A VA
Photo; Cassell € Company Ltd
FIG. 83 —TEA ROSES IN A VASE
144 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING,
Chapter 15.—Roses as Cut Flowers.
Tue lover of cut Roses is catered for these latter. days as he
or she never was before. Big fragrant bowls of the old H.P.’s
were not to be despised, but they were generally lumpy, unless
arranged with exceptional skill. Moreover, their season was
limited. The newer Teas and H.7.’s, with their neat flowers,
long stems, and beautiful leafage, are in season out of doors
for seven or eight months, so that a long supply is at command.
Little art is required to get beautiful effects with these,
unless it be the art which holds the master key to simplicity.
Broadly speaking, the more simple the arrangement the better.
As a matter of fact, a few long sprays placed loosely in a
vase look charming.
Jt goes without saying, perhaps, that nothing but Rose
foliage should be used with Rose flowers. Fern, Asparagus,
Gypsophila, and such like “greenery ” has its uses, but it
is not wanted with Roses.
There is nothing to beat a vase lightly filled with sprays of
one variety, intermingled with its own leafage (Fig. 83, p. 148).
Bamboo supports, with orifices at different heights (Fig. 84, p. 145),
are suitable for some purposes and positions. They are frequently
exhibited at horticultural shows.
Table decorations entirely composed of Roses are sometimes
seen, and the fact that simplicity can well hold its own with
elaboration is proved by a reference to Figs. 85 (p. 146) and 86 (p.
147). The former is a good sample of an elaborate table arrangement,
with its large centre bowl and series of glass dishes, these being
furnished with different varieties of Roses. The latter consists
simply of Rosa Himalayica in a small bowl and side vases.
Baskets of Roses are frequently object lessons of the painful
results of sardine-patking. Large H.P.’s want arranging with
great self-restraint, otherwise there is a dead level of ugly
blown flowers staring one in the face. The buds and leafage
are the best. A trail of Smilax or small-leaved Ivy is permis-
sible for the handle, but even this extraneous substance may
be done away with if the bronzy growths of the Roses are
handled with skill.
SUNRISE 145
Photo: Cassell & Congaiay Lid,
FIG. 84.—TEA ROSE SUNRISE IN A BAMBOO SUPPORT.
PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
146
‘SISO
JO NOILVHOSAC ATAVL
147
OF ROSA HIMALAYICA.
TABLE
A
‘VOIAVIVWIH VSOU JO ATAVL V9 ‘Hla
148 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING.
FIG. 87.-A BASKET OF ROSES.
END Hex,
4
A
Aphis or fly, 79
Arbours, old and new styles of (illus-
trated), 134
Arches, the best form of, 12, 136
B
Banks, preparing and planting (i/lus-
trated), 136, 137
Basket of Roses (illustrated), 148
Bee, the Leaf-cutter, 79
Boxes and stands for exhibiting Roses
(illustrated), 86, 87; various types of
(illustrated), 87 ; dimensions of, 90
Brier, how to raise the cutting (i//us-
trated), 17 ; how to raise the seedling
(illustrated), 18, 19; the hedgerow, and
its treatment (i//ustrated), 20, 21;
Austrian, 102; Penzance, 103; a
selection of Penzance, 104
Briers, how best to obtain, 23; how to
prune Penzancv, 68, (illustrated) 71
Budding, number of buds to use, 24;
right and wrong methods of, 24; how
to perform (illustrated), 24; best time
for, 23, 24; keeping buds fresh, 25 ;
cutting back shoots, 25
Bush Roses in pots (illustrated), 97
Bushes, how to prune, 98
Cc
Caddice Fly, 79
Canker in Maréchal Niel, 82, (il/us-
trated) 84, 85
Caterpillars,
leaf-eating, 79; leaf-
binding, 78; small Ermine, 77, 78
Crimson Rambler, how to prune (i//us-
trated), 75
Cutback, what the term means, 22
Cuttings, propagation by, 25, 26; suit-
able wood for (illustrated), 26; how
to insert (illustrated), 27
Cups and tubes for exhibition, 88,
(illustrated) 89
D
Disbudding, staking, and feeding, 100
E
Enemies of Roses, 76-79
Exhibition: Hybrid Perpetuals for,
111, 112; Hybrid Teas for, 112; Teas
and Noisettes for, 122; stands and
boxes for (illustrated), 86-90; cups
and tubes for (i//ustrated), 89, 90
F
Flowers, selecting and arranging, 91
G
Gardens, Rose, various, 8, 9; modern,
9; plans of (illustrated), 10,11; on
grass (illustrated), 13; planof, witha
garden bower (i//ustrated), 14 ; inter-
esting features of, 132
150 INDEX.
Gloire de Dijon, pruning, 58; how to O
prune (illustrated), 63
Grafting, best ways of performing, 27
Grub, stem-boring, 79; the Rose. 80
Orange Fungus and its eradication, 80,
(illustrated) 82
P
H
Pergolas, end elevation of (illustrated),
Habit, explanation of, 16 139; side elevation of (illustrated),
Hedges, pruning and planting, 70; how} 140; ground plan of (illustrated), 140
to plant (illustrated), 72, 73; and| Pillar Roses, pruning, 58; method of
screens, how to form, 138 pruning (illustrated), 64, 65
Hurdle, a home-made, for Roses (i//us- | Planting, the best time for, 34, 35;
trated), 138 preparations needed for, 36; a good
Hybrid Perpetuals for garden and ex-| method of, 36, 38; how to perform
hibition, 111, 112 correctly (illustrated), 37; the need of
Hybrid Teas, a selection for garden and] firm, 38; various ways of (d/ustrated),
exhibition, 112 39, 41; Rose hedges, 70, (idlustrated)
72, 73; Maréchal Niel in _ houses
(illustrated), 55
Poles for pillars, 12
Pruning, dwarf MHybrid Perpetuals
Insects and fungi, washes for, 84 (ilustrated), 43, 45; the advantages
of, 44; hard versus slight, 44; best
times of performing, 46; amount of
generally necessary, 46; dwarf Tea-
M scented Roses (illustrated), 47; stand-
ard Tea-scented Roses (illustrated),
49 ; for strong growers, 51; climbers,
52-58 ; Maréchal Niel, 52-56 ; the
long-rod system of, 53; Gloire de
Dijon (illustrated), 63; W. A. Rich-
ardson (illustrated), 57-60; pillar
Roses, 58, 63, (id/ustrated) 65 ; pegged
down Roses, 61, (illustrated) 66, 67 ;
canker in, 82, (ddustrated) 85 Weems ees sa (ee ss
Minako ecmadkcandare Enea Garaare Penzance Briers, 68, (illustrated) 71;
b] ’ , =
(illustrated), 81 Rose Hedges, 72, 73; Crimson Kam-
bler (idlustrated), 74, 75
I
Maiden, meaning of the term, 22
Manetti stock, origin of, 22
Maréchal Niel, pruning, 52; planting
(illustrated) 54; in a lean-to house
(illustrated), 55; in a span-roof house
(illustrated, 55; first stages of prun-
ing (illustrated), 56; pruning on the
long-rod system (dlustrated), 59 ;
Moth, the small Ermine attacking Rose
leaves (illustrated), 77, 78
R
N Red Rust, 80
Red Spider, 79
Noisette, characteristics of a, 20 Roots and potting, 96
INDEX.
Rose Bedeguar, 79
Rose Leaf Sawfly, caterpillars of, feeding
on Rose leaves (t//ustrated), 77
Rose Slug, method of attack (i//ustrated),
Sr i |
Roses, origin of Teas, Hybrid Teas,
Hybrid Perpetuals, and Noisettes, 18-
20; own root, 22; how to propagate,
22-27; how to prepare for planting,
34-37 ; when to order, 34; the evil of
substitutes, 35; pruning climbing
(illustrated), 52-59 ; pruning pillar
(illustrated), 58-61; pegging down, 61 ;
pruning weeping, 64, (¢//ustrated) 69 ;
pruning pegged-down, branches left
long (idlustrated), 66; long ‘pruning
pegged-down (illustrated), 67 ; hedges,
70; enemies of, 76-79; attacks of
caterpillars and grubs on (i/lustrated),
77; Francois Michelon (illustrated),
111; Ulrich Brunner (illustrated), 110 ;
Bessie Brown (i/lustrated), 113; Lady
Battersea (i//ustrated), 114; La France
(illustrated), 115; Liberty (illus-
trated), 116; Mrs. W. J. Grant (illus-
trated), 117; Bridesmaid (illustrated),
118; Catherine Mermet (il/ustrated),
119; Leuchstern (illustrated), 120:
Carmine Pillar (illustrated), 121;
Innocente Pirola (illustrated), 122;
Maman Cochet (illustrated), 123;
Muriel Grahame (illustrated), 124 ;
Hybrid Perpetuals for exhibition, 111,
112; Hybrid Teas for the garden
and exhibition, 112; Miniature Pro-
vence, 112; Moss, 112, 118; Musk,
118; Polyantha, 118, 119; Teas and
Noisettes, 122; Sylph (illustrated),
125; White Maman Cochet (illus-
trated), 127; Gloire de Dijon (idlus-
trated), 128 ; Himalayica (illustrated),
129; Sulphurea (illustrated), 130 ;
Moss (illustrated), 131; arbours, old
and new styles of (illustrated), 133,
134; on a bank (illustrated), 137; a
selection of climbing, 126; for trailing
151
over banks, 126; for hedges and
bushes, 126, 132; for bedding, 126;
for arches and pillars, 131; for pots,
132; for standards, 132; supports for
pillar (i/lustrated), 135; with blind
centres, 86; boxes and stands for
exhibiting (i/lustrated), 86, 87, 90;
cups and tubes for exhibiting (i/lus-
trated), 88, 90; shades and shelters
for, 91; prize grown in a backyard
(illustrated), 92; a house of (tllus-
trated), 93; shades for (illustrated),
94, 95; in pots, 94-100; when to buy
pot, 94; soil and drainage for pot,
95 ; bush in pots (i/lustrated), 97 ; pot
after flowering, 98; repotting, 99 ;
pyramid, in pots (illustrated), 99;
twining in pots, 100, (i//ustrated) 101;
Ayrshire, 103; Banksian, 103; Bour-
bon, 103; Boursault, 103 ; Penzance
Brier, 104; China or Monthly, 104;
evergreen, 104; French, 104; garden,
104-106; Cooling’s Yellow Noisette
(illustrated), 105; Souvenir de Cath-
erine Guillot (i//ustrated), 106; Belle-
fleur (illustrated), 107; Claire Jac-
quier (il/ustrated), 108; Helen Keller
(illustrated), 109 ; Tea, in a vase,
(illustrated), 143; in a Bamboo sup-
port (illustrated), 145; as cut flowers,
144; table decorations of (i//ustrated),
146, 147; a basket of (1//ustrated), 148
s
Sections and selections, 100
Sections into which Roses are divided,
16-20
Shades and shelters, 91; for show Roses
(illustrated), 95
Soil, how to prepare, 28-33 ; the need for
draining, 30; best kinds of, 28-30;
best time to prepare, 30; methods of
preparing (i//ustrated), 29, 31, 32, 33
152
Staking, the need for, 39; how to per-
form, 40
Stands, types of (illustrated), 87; di-
mensions of, 90
Stocks, characteristics of different (i//ws-
trated), 15 ; Manetti and De la
Grifferaie (illustrated), 15; cutting
Brier (illustrated), 17 ; seedling Brier
(illustrated), 19; hedgerow Brier
(illustrated), 21
T
Table decorations of Roses (illustrated),
146; of Rusa Himalayica (illustrated).
47
—"V
INDEX.
Teas, eighteen for exhibition, 126;
twenty-five for the garden, 126 ; ina
vase (illustrated), 143; Sunrise in a
Bamboo support (illustrated), 146
Tree stumps, 142
Trellises, 142
U
Umbrella, a Rose (illustrated), 141
WwW
Washes for insects and fungi, 85
William Allen Richardson, pruning, 67;
for wall or trellis (i//ustrated), 60
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oR FLOWER & KITCHEN GARDEN]
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Barr’s Collections of
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THE. MOST. LOVELY .OF ALL SPRING FLOWERS
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Barr’s 21/= ‘‘ Greenhouse” Collection contains 300 Spring-flowering
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For full particulars of the above and other Collections, see Barr’s Bulb Catalogue,
BARR = “SON S,
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(Cover 3.
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