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PLANT CULTURE
PLANT CULTURE
A WORKING HAND-BOOK OF EVERY
.-. .-. DAY PRACTICE FOR .-. .-.
ALL WHO GROW FLOWERING AND
.-. .-. ORNAMENTAL PLANTS .-. .-.
IN THE GARDEN AND GREENHOUSE
BY
GEORGE W. OLIVER
Propagator to the U. S. Botanic Garden, Washington, D. C., and
late of the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh
NEW YORl^
A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO., LTD.
1900
Copyright
Entered According to Act of Congress in the
Year 1900 by
T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING COMPANY, LTD.
New York
All Rights Reserved.
PREFACE
In nearly all of the recent works of this nature, appearing
in America, the subjects dealt with have been confined, more
or less, to those plants that can be and are cultivated by
commercial florists for profit, or by those who own conserva-
tories. And while the present book includes all this class of in-
formation it has a far wider scope treating, as it does, on the care
and management of a diversity of plants not touched upon by
other writers, all equally necessary in the adornment of our
gardens and homes and, for this purpose, as beautiful and inter-
esting as those that generally receive the greatest attention from
authors of most horticultural works. Divested of superfluous
verbiage, and shorn of perplexing technicalities which tend to
confuse, the cultural directions here given can be easily and
successfully followed, the results contributing to the perfect
enjoyment of **the purest of human pleasures," by some, and
affording to others a lucrative occupation.
What I have given here are teachings gleaned and sifted
from the experience of many years' work as a gardener and
florist. The methods described are such as have been success-
fully practiced by me and can be safely relied on as up-to-date
and thoroughly applicable to American conditions and require-
While the notes have been made short, they will, never-
theless, in most cases, cover the essential points in the
methods of raising and caring for the plants named, and be
understood by the average reader as easily as if they had
been dealt with in longer articles. Hitherto, the information
available on the subjects treated upon has, for the most part,
been widely scattered in numerous magazines and books,
many of which are expensive; and it is often found necessary
to search through a mass of technical details in order to find
the required information. It is to be hoped that the present
volume will, in great measure, reduce the difficulties referred
to, and render the art of plant cultivation pi*t)fitable and enjoy-
able to the many whose tastes are horticultural.
George W. Oliver.
Washington, July, 1900.
CONTENTS,
Page
Stove and Greenhouse Plants - - - 9
Bedding Plants 50
Vase and Basket Plants - - - ■ 65
Vines, Hardy and Tender - - - - 67
Bulbous Plants 79
Ornamental Grasses ----- 92
Water Plants — Aquatics 96
Ferns and Lycopods loi
Hardy Perennial Plants - - - - iii
Hardy Shrubs - - - - - - 147
General Directions - - - - - 176
Propagation - - - - - - -176
Seeds 176
Grafting 178-180
Budding 180
Layering ------- 181
Hybridization ------ 182
Potting Plants 182
Soil 185
Mulching - - - - - - 185
Watering ------- 186
W%fcS-
vv
Stove and Greenhouse Plants.
ABUTILON— Several of the varieties having ornamental foliage, such
as A. Darwini tesselatum, A. Sellonianum marmoratum, A. vexillarium
and Eclipse, are good bedding plants. The last two are useful for vases
and boxes. All of them have the leaves blotched with yellow. Souvenir
de Bonn and Savitzii are variegated with white. Cuttings are rooted in
the Fall, or may betaken in early Spring from lifted and cut back plants.
The varieties grown for their flowers are numerous; the colors are pink,
red, white and yellow. They are everblooming.
ACACIA— Seedlings of Acacias are not to be recommended for small
flowering plants, on account of their lanky growth. Not only are plants
from cuttings most floriferous, but they are easier trained to any desired
shape. They should be taken from the half-ripened shoots during the
month of June. A peatty soil mixed with half sand should be used, as
the roots will take nourishment from it immediately they are formed.
Make the cuttings with a sharp knife and take off the leaves from the
part which is to go in the soil with a small pair of sharp scissors. The
pots for rooting the cuttings in should be prepared carefully— rough
crocks in the bottom and flner above, until they are fllled to within two
inches of the rim. The remaining space should be filled with finely sifted
peat and sand in equal parts topped off with pure sand. Dibble in the
cuttings to the depth of about an inch and not too crowded. They
must be kept " close " during the operation of rooting, and as cool as
possible. The pots, which may be plunged in sand, should be covered
with a movable glass structure. A good plan is to have two sets of
those hand-light or bell-glasses, and instead of wiping the moisture
from them daily, remove the wet ones and slip over them those which
are dry. After the first watering the cuttings will take but little more
during the process of rooting; when they do require it the fohage should
be allowed to dry before putting back the covers. Acacia Riceana is
perhaps the finest greenhouse species for very large plants. A. pubes-
cens, A. Drummondi and A. paradoxa are all good greenhouse species,
flowering well on moderate-sized specimens. Sandy loam, to which a
goodly quantity of leaf soil or peat is added, will suit them. Firm pot-
ting and good drainage are necessary. Plunge the plants outside dur-
ing Summer, and give liberal supplies of water when the plants are well
established.
ACALYPHA HISPIDA— Large plants in pots are speedily produced by
using a goodly quantity of bone meal in the soil. Grow in a high tem-
perature. If tall plants are wanted, keep nipping out the flower spikes
as they appear in the axils of the leaves. When the plant reaches the
desired height nip out the ends of the shoots; this will cause branching.
AQAPANTHUS UMBELLATUS— The African blue Lily is a desirable
plant for cool greenhouses, and ornamental either in or out of bloom.
In general appearance it resembles the Imantophyllum, but the flowers
nonRTY uBhAur
10 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
are bright blue, a great number of them being produced in an umbel
supported by a long, stout stalk. The Agapanthus is one of those
plants which have the appearance of doing well with cramped root
room, so there is a temptation when potting other things to leave the
plants for another year; but this practice is carried on at the expense of
the magnificent heads of flowers, which get smaller and smaller until a
season goes by without any being produced. This species sometimes
stands the Winters at Washington, D. C, in sheltered positions. There
are several varieties — the white, double-flowered and the variety with
variegated leaves being the most conspicuous.
AQATHiCA CCELESTIS— A cool greenhouse, low-growing shrub with
blue, daisy-hke flowers produced principally in Winter. Cuttings should
be taken from the soft wood in Fall and Spring. It will stand full sun
at all seasons.
AGAVE AflERICANA and its variegated forms, together with several
other more or less ornamental species, are much cultivated in pots and
tubs. They grow best in rather poor but well-drained soil, and are
increased by seeds and offsets. The flowering period of adult specimens
is hastened by keeping them in a pot-bound state. On the other hand,
growth of foliage is accelerated by giving abundant root room.
ALLAHANDAS— Among the select flowering plants for temporary or
permanent use in tubs we must include the large flowering allamandas
known as Cathartica, Schottii and grandiflora. They will thrive in
shade or sun; where a little shade is available the flowers naturally last
longer. The flowers are large, almost the size of the moonflower, but
more lasting, the shoots ramble over the sides of the tubs. Procure
some young plants in the beginning of May and a little later plant in
the open to make growth for cuttings. After cutting them back for
propagation lift and pot, partly resting them for the Winter. For im-
mediate effect after planting out start early in the Spring; one plant to
a tub, among other things, is sufficient. The best upright growing
species is named Williamsii, a grand plant either for boxes, tubs or for
bedding out; it is easily propagated in the Fall from ripe cuttings.
The larger flowered kinds, when represented by large ijlants, are very
desirable for isolating on a lawn. A good, rich, light soil is necessary,
and if a tub is used for the plant put enough drainage in the bottom so
that the plant when knocked out of the pot will rest on the drainage.
Ram the soil firmly around the ball, shorten back the strong growths
and stand the plants in a partly shaded spot, syringing frequently. In
a few weeks' time, the kinds grown under the names Wardleana, Hen-
dersoni and Schottii, will give an abundant display of their wide,
trumpet-shaped, yellow flowers. When trained near the roof of a warm
greenhouse they may be had in bloom the greater part of the Winter
months. In fact, they can be so managed as to have them bloom at
any time of the year, by first resting the plants, pruning back and
encouraging the root growth. Cuttings of the ripe wood will root in a
warm propagating house at any season.
ALOCASI A— Although among the most ornamental of stove plants,
none of them can be put to much use outside of these structures. Out
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 11
of a large number of species and forms, A. metallica, A. Sedenii, A. Tbi-
bautiana, A. Sanderiana and A. macrorhiza variegata are well known.
The two last named are increased by offsets; the others, by cutting up
the succulent stems of old plants. Put the pieces in damp moss, in a
propagating frame, with a temperature of 80 degrees. After sprouting
put them in a potting mixture similar to that given for nepenthes. The
plants must be shaded from the .sun at all times, and 'grown in a mini-
mum temperature of 60 degrees.
ALOYSIA CITRIODORA— The sweet-scented verbena, grows very
strongly when planted out, finishing up the season by covering itself
with myriads of small, insignificant flowers. It is a very popular plant,
on account of its sweet-smelling leaves, being almost identical in this
respect with those of the lemon grass and Eucalyptus citriodora. Keep
some old plants over Winter; start them early in Spring and root the
growths, as soon as they get enough length to them, in warm sand bed.
AHARYLLIS— See Bulbous Plants.
ANANAS — Ananas Porteana is hardly worth growing for its variega-
tion when we have the splendid variegated forms of the common pine-
apple—A. sativa. In a warm, sheltered place all of the kinds do well
out-of-doors in Summer, where they put on exquisite colorings. If
grown large enough the plants will fruit in the same way as the green-
leaved forms. In fact, it is best to allow them to fruit, as subsequently
they form suckers the more readily. These suckers may be rooted in
sand, not too moist, but very warm. After being potted off and taken
with the soil a little they will stand full sunlight without injury.
ANTHERICUM VARIEGATUM is a good all-round plant for vases, bed-
ding, or potted for window decoration, although for the last-named
purpose it is surpassed by the variety known as A. media picta. If the
plants which were lifted in the Fall are allowed to bloom, and the
flower stalks remain on the plants afterward, a good opportunity to
increase the stock of plants presents itself during February. All along
the flowering stems will be found a crop of small rosettes of leaves
which, if cut off, stems and all, and laid on the sand in the shaded part
of a warm house, will send out roots in a short time. Large clumps of
A. variegatum, which have been hibernating under benches, should be
broken up about the end of January and potted in 3 and 4-inch pots.
They may be placed under benches where the light will strike them for
at least a portion of the day.
ANTHURIUn— The species of this genus are grown either for foliage
or flower. None of them has handsome foliage and showy flowers com-
bined in the same plant. A crystallinum, A. Veitchii and A. Warocque-
anum are very beautiful foliage plants, but the flowers are inconspicu-
ous. On the other hand A. Andreanum, A. ornatum and their numerous
hybrid progeny, together with A. Scherzerianum and varieties, have
rather ordinary -looking leaves; but in each case the inflorescence is ex-
ceedingly attractive. The showy part of the inflorescence is what is
termed the spathe, answering the same purpose as calyx and corolla in
other flowers. Their cultural needs are: temperature, 65 to 85 degrees;
12 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
shade at all times, lightest in Winter. The potting mixture should be
rough, fibry peat, sphagnum, decayed cow manure and sand, except for
A. Scherzerianum, which needs less sphagnum and more peat. Water
should be copiously supplied in the growing season. Toward the end of
January, with increasing sun heat, these plants will soon commence
active growth for the season. Before this takes place they should be
looked over for the purpose of repotting or for rooting any tall or strag-
gling growths which have grown away from the sphagnum in the pot.
In this condition the roots, which are formed at the bases of the lea
stems, shrivel up for want of moisture and the plant becomes shy in
blooming. Cutoff the shoots that are in this condition and put in a
mixture of sphagnum and sand in a warm part of tbe propagating
bench; keep moist and roots will form in abundance in about three
weeks, when they should be potted up in the usual way. Old plants
should have the lower part of the stem and roots removed and sunk
lower in the pot, using a mixture of fibrous peat, sphagnum, well decom-
posed cow manure, charcoal and sand. This treatment applies only to
such kinds as A. Andreanum, A. ornatum and their numerous hybrid
progeny, all of which produce very showy flowers which may be used to
advantage associated with those of orchids. Their cultivation is
exceedingly simple where sufficient heat is at command, a minimum tem-
perature of 65 degrees F. being necessary.
APONOQETON DISTACHYON— This is not a greenhouse plant, but,
where opportunities offer, it certainly should be grown as such. It is
known as the Cape Pond Weed. The flowers, arranged much in the same
way as those of the Ouvirandra, have large, showy white bracts; very
sweet smelling. In its native haunts the seeds germinate on the surface
of the water, forming very small tubers which, when the leaves decay,
sink to the bottom of the pond and become established there.
ARALIA — Aralia Veitchii and A. gracillima are readily rooted if the
cuttings are taken at the proper time; that is, when young shoots
develop on a cut-back plant, and they are removed with a heel and kept
in a close, warm propagating frame. But this is a slower method than
grafting if the necessary stocks are at hand. A. Guilfoylei, or any of the
woody species of Panax, make good enough stock on which to work
them.' Select long, wiry wood for cions — that which is not too thick
and well ripened. In the cions a piece of the stem to each leaf is all that
is necessary. Cut the stock clear across and down to as near the soil as
possible; make an incision in it downward for three-quarters of an inch.
Make the wood of the cion wedge-shaped to fit the incision, and tie to
keep in position till united, during which process they should be kept in
a rather warm, humid atmosphere— a moderately warm propagating
frame will answer. The leaves of the cions, if too large, should be short-
ened back a little. March is the best month In which to perform the
operation.
Aralia Chabrierii, so called, strikes so readily from cuttings put in a
cool house that there is no necessity for grafting them.
Aralia (Fatsia) japonica is conceded to be one of the best plants for
decorative purposes, but like several other good things in this line it is
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 13
not got up in any very great quantity, possibly from metliods of propa-
gation not being evident. It is rattier backward in producing seeds in
thiis country, altliougii moderately large plants flower freely enough.
From cuttings, by topping old plants, it is rather slow. It is said to
vegetate from pieces of the roots. I have not tried this method. Seeds
are obtainable from some of the European firms at reasonable prices.
These should be got hold of during March or April and sown then, as
they do not retain their vitality for any great length of time. Firm the
soil in the seed pans before sowing, and cover with a mixture of loam
and sand; place in a temperature suitable for warm greenhouse plants,
shaded from the sun. The seedlings, as soon as large enough to handle,
should be potted off singly into 2-inch pots, and when in 4-inch pots
they should be plunged outside during the Summer, in a frame covered
with slats, or with sash-tilted top and bottom alternately. When large
enough for a shift they should get it, as they suffer from being root-
bound. Old plants will stand considerable frost, but the young plants
are always more tender and should on the approach of cool weather be
given protection.
A. J. variegata is a highly ornamental form.
ARAUCARIAS— In the propagation of the Araucaria a good plan is
to procure seed and sow at the end of the year. The seedlings are, of
course, not well-furnished at the base, but they make good stock plants
and cheaper ones than can be procured otherwise. The finely ripened
tops of the seedlings are so easy to root that, with ordinary care, it is
almost impossible to lose a cutting Moreover, the cut-back plants will
immediately begin to throw up good leaders, which in turn are used for
cuttings. In taking cuttings from plants which have attained consider-
able size, the lateral branches may be rooted along with the tops— not
for making specimen plants, because this is impossible, but for the pur-
pose of providing material for cuttings; for, when cut back, they will
Ihrow up [leaders, which are as good as the best. The soil for propa-
gating should be sandy, and pressed firmly about the base of the cut-
tings, which should be kept in a frame shaded from sunlight, with
enough moisture in the atmosphere to keep them from wilting. Keep
the temperature a little higher after the cuttings have callused. Most
of the plants used in this country (principally A. excelsa) are imported
from Europe. This Araucaria is a native of Norfolk Island and is
known as the Norfolk Island Pine. The best place for the plants in
Summer is under a structure covered with slats, in which similarly con-
stituted plants may pass the hot months.
ARDISIA— The red-berried ardisia, A. crenulata, continues to be one
of the most attractive Christmas plants. It can be recommended as a
first-class window subject, owing to its apparent indifference to a little
cold or occasional neglect in the way of watering. Seeds may be sowii
during the latter part of January. Plants over one year old are never
without a crop of seed at any season, if they are in good health; and
frequently we see them with two crops at one time along with the
flowers, which in a short period produce the third crop of berries. The
old fruits have usually a grimy appearance from hanging so long on the
14 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
bush. When there is any choice in the matter the oldest berries should
be taken for sowing, as they will be the first to fall from the plant.
Wash the pulp from around the seed and sow immediately, affording a
quarter of an inch of soil above the seeds, firming well and giving the
pots or boxes a position in a cool house. Keep the soil moderately
damp, with abundance of air during mild weather. Conditions such as
these will give the seed ample time to germinate and make plants in 4-
inch pots by the following Fall. Cuttings root freely in sand, but do not
make as symmetrical plants as seedlings. When the old plants get leggy
the tops are easily rooted by making an incision in the stems and tying
moss around them. These tops make very fine dwarf specimens.
ASPARAGUS— As pot plants there are only three species of any value;
these are A. plumosus nanus, A. tenuissimus and A. Sprengeri.
A. plumosus is a very distinct plant from A. plumosus nanus and
probably is a distinct species. (See Vines).
A. plumosus nanus makes a profusion of short growths from the
base, and may be kept in this condition by pot culture and pinching
shoots that show a tendency to run up; for it will grow 30 feet high
under proper conditions. Dividing starved plants is the readiest
method of increasing stock. Wash out the roots and place the divisions
in moderately wet sand, to make a few roots before potting.
A. tenuissimus should be rooted from cuttings. Unlike the other
kinds it is easy to manage in this respect.
A. Sprengeri does best where its branches are allowed to hang down
instead of being planted in a bed like the better known A. plumosus
nanus. The ideal method is to have the plants in large wire baskets
suspended from the roof of a house; and where the plants underneath
don't suffer from drip or shade this system will work all right. Where
a large supply of this green is wanted the north wall of a house may be
used economically by erecting trough-like receptacles running the entire
length of the house. The top one may be as near the glass as possible,
the next in front 6 or 8 inches lower down, and so on, giving enough
room to prevent crowding of the branches. Old plants may be divided
for planting out, and .for small specimens in pots, which are useful in
asscciating with ferns. Seedlings are easily raised. The plants ripen
seed in midwinter. If cleaned and sown as soon as ripe the seeds
germinate quickly.
ASPIDISTRA— The usual way to increase the stock of these very valu-
able decorative plants is to divide up large specimens into small pieces,
potting and keeping close until they make fresh roots. A method requir-
ing a little more work, certainly, but giving salable plants in a shorter
period, and more of them, as every small piece will grow, is to shake the
old plants out, disentangle the rhizomes as carefully as possible, and
wash clean, saving every little piece that is likely to grow. Cut the rhi-
zomes into small pieces, with roots attached, and put in the sand bed
to make fresh roots; subsequently put in small pots and keep close for
a few days. A. elatior and A. elatior variegata are the ones most com-
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 15
monly grown. It is said that A. lurida is tiardy as far North as Phila-
delphia.
ASPLENIUM— See Ferns.
AZALEA — Indian Azaleas used so extensively for Winter and Spring
flowering are European grown. They arrive in the Fall in wonderfully
good condition, as a rule.
The Newly Imported Plants— These should not be potted in the first
kind of soil that comes to hand; rather choose that which is as far as
possible like the material in which they have been grown. Firm potting
is very very important. The rootlets are exceedingly fine and they make
but little progress in loose soil when in pots. Examine the roots care-
fully before potting, and if the balls are at all dry, stand them in a tub of
water until wet through; allow to drain, then pot. This treatment
should be given to all plants of the same family, such as Andromedas,
Kalmias, Ericas, Epacris and Rhododendrons, as they all have roots of
the same nature. For the first week or two after potting put the plants
in a deep frame with the sash kept on ; and for those which are meant
for later flowering this frame, if frost can be kept out of it, will be the
proper place to Winter the plants.
Removing Side Growths — Azalea plants which for forcing purposes are
in a comparatively high temperature, and otherwise under conditions
with which they are unaccustomed, will push out growths at the bases
of the flower buds; especially is this the case with plants the roots of
which are in perfect order. This tendency is shown less earlier in the
season than lateron, but whenever it does occur, the sooner the growths
are removed the better are the chances for the perfect development of
the flowers.
Treatment During Summer — Azalea plants left unsold in Spring will
increase in value if they are properly handled during the Summer
months. It pays to grow on imported Azaleas, from small plants into
big ones, because, when lifted in the Fall, they are equally as good as, if
not better than, imported plants for general use, and much better for
forcing. About the beginning of May stand the plants which have been
in the greenhouse in a cold frame or a sheltered spot outside, to gradu-
ally harden them off previous to putting them in the ground, so that
when that operation is performed they will not get chilled at the roots.
In a few days prepare a bed for them; dig a trench of sufficient size for
the balls, keeping the sizes together. Scatter a couple of inches of leaf
mould and sand in the trench; knock the plants out of their pots, if
necessary reduce the balls a little; place in the trench, fill in with a mix-
ture of leaf soil, sand and loam, ramming it firm around them. Some
lath slats on very hot days, pinchings when necessary and frequent
waterings with the hose, will be all that is required for the next five
months. At the expiration of that time they will have ripened their
growth for the season, when they may be lifted and the balls reduced in
size so as to go comfortably into the proper-sized pots.
BEGONIA— This genus is a deservedly popular one, as it possesses
numerous specie* aud varieties, useful either as greenhouse, window or
16 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
bedding plants. Nearly all of them will grow in a wide range of soils.
Two parts loam and a third of equal parts decayed cow manure and
sand will be found to answer the requirements of most of them.
Sowing Seed— The seeds of all Begonias are very minute and should
be sown on finely sifted and previously watered soil, without covering,
excepting perhaps a very fine dusting of silver sand. The pan may be
covered with glass until germination takes place.
The tuberous rooted section behave grandly in some parts of the
country when planted out. In the warmer localities they do not thrive.
The tubers are Wintered much in the same way as those of Caladiums or
Gloxinias. Young plants are raised from seed in Spring, but they bloom
late.
Winter Bloomers— Begonia Gloire de Sceaux is a hybrid between B.
Bubpeltata and B. socotrana, the latter being one of the parents of the
wonderfully floriferous Gloire de Lorraine. Gloire de Sceaux is a trifle
miffy and that is probably the reason we see less of it grown than we
did a few years ago. Flowering wood is not the best for cuttings.
Young plants are best started from the leaves. When well flowered it is
a very effective plant for decorations, owing to the bronzy color of the
foliage and bright pink flowers. Paul Bruant is one -of the best flower-
ing of the genus, and one which does well in a house window; the foHage
slightly resembles that of B. Gilsonii, another good Winter bloomer,
with double flowers, said to have been raised before the War of the Re-
bellion by a colored man named Gilson. Its history would be interest-
ing, seeing that it is a shrubby kind with the flowers double. President
Carnot, after having grown this hybrid since it was sent out a few years
ago, I have come to the conclusion that the best way to manage it, in
the absence of a place in the greenhouse, where it can be planted out, is
to put it out in the open lot in the Summer, where it is encouraged to
make all the growth possible; lift with a good ball, pot carefully, when
it will flower in midwinter most profusely. The large clusters of female
flowers are one of the most attractive features in the greenhouse in mid-
winter. Two other good Winter blooming species for house culture are
B. manicata aurea and B. acuminata; the former has light pink flowers
and yellow spotted leaves; the latter small, crisp-looking foliage and
pure white flowers.
Begonia Corallina-^ffo grow this species from seed is rather unsatis-
factory; it takes the best part of a year to bloom and then, as a rule,
many of the seedlings are inferior to the forms already in cultivation,
the most noticeable point being their lack of free-blooming qualities.
Cuttings of this, the queen of shrubby Begonias, either for bedding pur-
poses or pot plants, should always be preferred, as they begin to flower
shortly after being potted off. It is a species which stands very rich
soil. Other good shrubby kinds are B. nitida and B. nitida alba, B.
incarnata, B. fuchsioides, B. Saundersii and B. semperflorens gigantea
rosea.
Begonia Qloire de Lorraine was raised about nine years ago. It is a
hybrid between B. socotrana (a species discovered in the Island of
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 17
Socotra, by Professor Baley Balfour) and the old B. Dregei. As a Win-
ter bloomer it is perhaps the finest of all recent hybrids. The first
growths made by the rooted cuttings all go to flowers, afterward some
growths more or less vigorous are made from the base. These make
excellent material for cuttings. Young plants are also raised from
mature leaves. The shoots should be allowed to be well above the sand
before being potted. The floriferousness of this Begonia may be partly
accounted for by the fact of its being almost without female flowers,
and also by the stamens producing little or no pollen. Among a large
number of plants I have Feen only a very few female flowers, and these
are, so far as noticed, only produced at the very ends of the flowering
stems. The pollen is produced exceedingly sparingly, many of the
flowers having none at all.
Rex Begonias, Leaf Cuttings of— After the rush of propagating the
soft wooded plants in the Fall the cuttings of the Eex Begonias may
be put in the sand bed. Select the mature leaves of those plants which
are growing in a rather cool house. The pieces for cuttings will answer
all right if they be cut in a triangular shape, three inches each way.
The part to be inserted in the sand should end with one of the thick ribs
or veins which are prominent on the undersides of the leaves. From a
medium-sized leaf eight or ten cuttings can be got. Put them in the
sand to the depth of about an inch and maintain a moderately humid
atmosphere to prevent wilting. Place in thumb pots as soon as the
leaves show above the sand. The old leaves are sometimes used entire,
first by giving a few cuts across the principal ribs, then placing them
flat on damp sand or moss. The other method is to be preferred, because
more plants can be got from one leaf. It is equally as quick, and takes
up much less room on the propagating bench. So far as color is con-
cerned few of the newer sorts are improvements over the better known
kinds, such as Philadelphus, Inimitable, Silver Queen, Fire King, Mrs.
Rivers and Marshall!.
BOUQAINVILLEA— There are at least five kinds in cultivation. B.
spectabilis is as free blooming as any, but only on large specimens. It
is very useful for training along the roof in the same Avay as B. glabra.
A season of rest, followed by severe pruning, usually induces an abun-
dant flowering growth. B. glabra Sanderiana differs from the tpye
in being smaller in the flower and more floriferous in a small state.
Small specimens from cuttings, rooted in the beginning of the year, will
bloom the following Winter; but larger plants take a couple of years to
develop. They should be allowed to make their growth out-of-doors,
either in the small or large state. There is not much to be gained by
planting out, as they make few roots. Plunging answers well enough,
with a shift in midseason, if necessary. After the plants are brought in-
doors the large, soft growths may be shortened, and an intermediate
temperature maintained until the plants are started into growth, when
more water and heat are given. After they have made a start, doses of
weak liquid manure are beneficial. When in bloom, gradually harden off,
or the flowers will fall in showers.
18 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
BOUVARDIA — A much grown Winter-flowering plant some years ago;
now comparatively few are to be seen. Young plants are raised early
in Spring, from small pieces of the roots, placed in flats of sand and kept
in a warm house. For the first week or two cover the surface of the
sand with damp sphagnum moss; this will encourage the formation of
buds on the roots. When the growths are of sufficient size, put in 2-inch
pots, shifting into 3-inch pots, and plant outside during the latter part
of May. To make bushy plants the leading shoots should be pinched
, repeatedly. About the middle of September, or earlier, according to
location, the plants are lifted with balls of earth attached, and either
planted on benches or put in pots. Keep the atmosphere moist and
close for the first few days, 'and the plants shaded from the sun. A mini-
mum temperature of 55 degrees is necessary for perfect development.
Pink, white and red are the prevailing colors.
BROWALLIA — B. Jamesoni is a useful plant for late Winter flowering.
It is naturally alow-growing soft-wooded evergreen shrub, with a rather
straggling appearance. When grown as a standard it is an extremely
ornamental subject. For this purpose take strong shoots for cuttings,
and grow to single stems, removing the side shoots and stopping the
main shoot when the desired height has been attained. In Summer the
plants may be plunged in a bed of ashes and frequently fed with liquid
manure. They need full sun. B. elata will bloom all Winter in a cool
conservatory. It is annual in duration. Seeds should be sown the
latter part of August; a few in a 4-inch pot. Discard the weakest seed-
lings, leaving three or four in a pot, and shift into 6-inch pots to bloom.
BRUNFELSIA— About half a dozen species are common in cultivation.
Out of this number tliere are at least two well worthy of attention as
pot plants— B. (Franciscea) latifolia and B. eximia. The former is very
free in producing flowers, and is one of the best plants to put out in the
permanent bed of a warm conservatory. The plant flowers during the
late Winter months from the wood made the previous Summer. On first
expanding the flowers are light purple, changing as tiiey grow older to
pure white. Old plants sucker freely, and if severed an inch or so
beneath the surface of the ground and put in the propagating bed, they
will quickly form new roots and develop into specimens large enough
for 5-inch pots within a year. These plants should be grown indoors
all the year round. Winter is their resting period, and during that time
they should be watered but sparingly. The soil should be of fibry loam,
sand and lime rubble; a small quantity of leaf mould may be added. In
rooting any of the kinds, take very large pieces; dust the cut part with
powdered charcoal; allow it to dry, then put in a pot of dry sand and
keep dry till rooted.
CALADIUM— See Bulbous Plants.
CACTUS— This name is applied to all the members of the family.
Formerly it was the adopted generic name of a large number of plants
which are now divided into several genera. Quite a number are hardy
in the Middle Atlantic States, among these are Opuntia arborescens, O.
BaflnesquiijO. vulgaris, O. missouriensis, and one named O. pha*acantha.
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 19
Some of the gaudy-flowered greenhouse kinds, such as Cereus flagelli-
formis, C. speciosissimus, and the much admired night bloomers C.
grandiflorus and C. Macdonaldiae, when in good condition, so far as the
drainage and soil in the pot are concerned, may be plunged in a sunny
spot out-of-doors, where they will make growth much superior to that
attained in the greenhouse. If the plants are in good health wet sea-
sons will do them no harm.
CALATHEA— Usually known as Marantas. They are grown solely for
their ornamental fohage, nearly all of the species having beautiful
markings. It is doubtful if any other genus shows greater variation in
this respect. Most of the kinds are stove plants, growing in shade all
the year round, with a minimum temperature of 60 degrees. They need
an abundance of water at all times. In Winter, when the benches are
apt to get dry quickly, the pots should stand on a layer of sphagnum
moss. Some of the species will succeed in a temperate house, and a few
of the stove kinds may be subjectea to a lower temperature, without
injury, after they have made their growth. Some of the best-known
stove kinds are as follows: C. Baraquiniana, C. bella, C. fasciata, C.
Kerchoviana, C. Lindeniana, C. Makoyana, C. albo-liueata, C. rosea-
picta, C. spleudida, C. zebrina, and C. Veitchiana. Those which maybe
grown cooler are C. tubispatha, a species which loses its leaves and
goes to rest for the Winter; C. illustris, C. Leitzei, C. Massangeana, C,
pulchella and C. intermedia. The last two resemble C. zebrina in the
upper portions of the leaves, but the inferior margins are almost green.
None of the species should be allowed to flower, as this only weakens
the plants; and seed is not necessary, as they all divide very freely. Dur-
ing the growing season, if drained thoroughly, they can hardly be over-
watered.
Propagation— Calatheas, which are freshly divided, should not be
potted in fresh soil until new roots have been formed. This condition
may be brought in the following manner: Knock the plants out of the
pots before growth commences; wash ;the soil from among the roots;
prune out those not wanted, and divide into clumps, not too small, say
large enough to go into a 5-inch pot, and put in the propagating bed.
Let the air be close and moist, and the glass shaded. When a few fresh
roots have been formed they take very quickly with the soil after
potting.
CALCEOLARIA— The Calceolaria, both shrubby and herbaceous, is as
well known in western Europe as the Zonal Pelargonium in America.
The shrubby kinds are there much used in bedding, producing very
gaudy effects. They delight in a cool, moist atmosphere, and our hot
Summers make short work of them. The herbaceous hybrids are raised
from seeds sown about the month of August. The seeds are very small
and should be sown on the surface of the soil and pressed down, cover-
ing with glass until the seed leaves can be seen. At all times the plants
require a cool, airy spot when in the greenhouse. From the seedling
stage until the plants are likely to get hurt by frost they should be kept
in a frame. Greenfly is their greatest insect enemy, and must be pre-
vented from gaijiing a foothold on them by fumigation, Several of the
20 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
species of Calceolaria are much easier to grow than the hybrids, and
some of them are very ornamental. C. scabiosa?folia may be flowered a
few weeks from the seedling stage by starving in small pots. It may,
however, be grown 3 feet high by shifting when necessary. Seeds may
be sown from August to January. The soil should be of an open nature;
cow manure and leaf mould should form one-fourth of the mixture.
CALLISTEMON SPECIOSUS, and one or two other species, make inter-
esting flowering plants in early Spring for a cool conservatory. Young
plants are gotten up from seed, but they take a longer time to flower
than when raised from cuttings; neither are they so free blooming.
They may be treated much in the same way as Acacias.
CAMELLIA — Some old plants of these relics of the past will occasion-
ally be found in old-established greenhouses. They are kept, especially
the white varieties, solely for the flowers, which are used in making up
designs. In private and public gardens we see them oftener, and in such
places they should be more grown, as they are capable of making exceed-
ingly attractive displays during the Autumn and Winter months. The
varieties are perpetuated by cuttings of the ripe growths in late Sum-
mer, or by grafting before the growth starts, using stocks of strong-
growing kinds, raised from cuttings. Potting is best done after the
flowers fall off. Loam two parts, peat or leaf mould one part, and
about one-sixth of the whole, sand, will make a good potting compost.
They thrive best with limited root room.
CANNAS FOR WINTER BLOOniNO— During Winter these plants
respond very readily when anything like fair treatment is given, in the
production of large heads of bloom. In fact, in a warm, sunny house,
many of the kinds are equally as fine as they are in Summer, and some
of them last longer in bloom, owing to the conditions for the production
of good flowers being more under'control. The orchid flowered Cannas,
that is, those having C. flaccida blood in them, are not well suited for
outdoor work, as their flowers are too soft to withstand the glare of
the hot sun; but for pot plants in Winter they are useful. The plants
may be started in small pots, giving larger ones as growth is made.
They are gross feeders, and will take rich soil supplemented by occa-
sional waterings with liquid manure. *
CARLUDOVICA— About six species are in common cultivation. They
are usually taken for palms, so closely do they resemble some kinds in
the foliage; but they are not even related. The one most commonly
grown, and perhaps the most useful for the florist, is named C. palmata;
in leaf somewhat resembling a Livistona. From the seedling stage they
develop rapidly into specimen plants. Old plants flower freely. The
seeds are small and thin, about the size of those of Mignonette. Wash
carefully from the surrounding pulp and sow in a box of finely chopped
sphagnum. They germinate in three weeks. Let them grow in this
until large enough to put three round the edge of a 3-inch pot, from
these shift into 5-inch pots. With us the plants are useful for planting
outside in shaded places in Summer, and if slightly hardened off they
may be used in decorating. All the kinds are stove plants.
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 21
CENTRADENIA— Of this there are three species, combining handsome
foliage and rather pretty flowers. C. grandifolia has the largest leaves,
and is the most useful for decorative work. The other species are C.
floribunda and C. rosea. Cuttings will root at any time of the year. To
get good growth on the plants during Summer they should be started
from cuttings in March. An intermediate house suits them; they require
but little shade.
CENTROPOQON— C. Lucyanum is said to be a bi-generic hybrid. The
parents are given as Centropogon fastuosum and Siphocampylus betu-
laefolius. It is one of the very best stove or warm greenhouse herba-
ceous perennials. There is no great difficulty in its cultivation; but it
is seldom seen in collections. The flowers are rosy carmine, produced in
midwinter. After blooming numerous small shoots will usually appear
along the branches; these taken off with a heel root w^ith bottom heat.
The young plants will thrive in heat and moisture during the first two
or three months; they may afterwards be grown in a frame. After the
blooming season is over the old plants may be given a period of rest,
and then repotted, using a light, rich material.
CESTRUM CORYMBOSUn and C. NEWELL! may be used for flower-
ing about Christmas, if young plants are started about the end of
August, the wood to be taken from old specimens planted out. As soon
as rooted put in 3-inch pots, afterward placing three together in a 6-
inch pot to bloom. Keep in a sunny house, or the plants are apt to
make too much foliage.
CINERARIA— For coming into flower during March and April sow the
seed during September. As soon as large enough the seedfings should
be put in 2-inch pots, and from that time on they must not be allowed
to get in a pot-bound state. The coolest house, with a maximum
amount of light and air, is what they need. Soil should be light and
well enriched.
CONVOLVULUS— This genus possesses many weedy plants which,
when once they gain a foothold in the garden, are difficult to eradicate.
Several are very ornamental when in bloom. One of the best, especially
for baskets, an evergreen, with short pendulous growths, is named C.
mauritanicus. The flowers are blue, and about an inch across. This
plant is usually increased by division, or cuttings of the ripe growths
early in Spring. Seeds are also offered.
CORDYLINE— The greenhouse Cordylines, such as C. australis, C. indi-
visa and its forms, are best raised from seeds which are easily procura-
ble. Sow thinly, as they they will not require to be transferred during
the earlier stages of growth. They are good decorative plants, from
5-inch pot plants up, having long, narrow strap-shaped drooping leaves.
Small plants are useful for mixing with other subjects in vases and bas-
kets, as they stand full sun.
The ornamental leaved kinds, which need a higher temperature for
their perfect development, are very numerous. Some of the best known
are C. Baptistii, C. Cooperii, C. porphyrophylla, C. Youngii and C. termi-
22 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
nalis. Especially from the last-named species many varieties have been
raised. Propagation is quickest brought about by cutting up the long
stems into pieces about 3 inches in length; put in warm sand and keep
moderately damp. They will throw up shoots from each eye; these
should be taken off and put in the sand to form strong, fresh roots, as
they are provided, when attached to the parent stem, only with very
weak roots and sometimes none at all. They will root quickly, and
may be potted according to their size, in 2 or 3-inch pots, and grown on
quickly in a high, moist temperature. When they reach a marketable
size the hardening-off process is necessary, or they will not stand long
whep used for decorating. In C. neo-caledonica, C. brasiliensis and C.
amabilis the thickened root stocks may be cut up into pieces along with
the stems for propagation. C. Cannsefolia does not succeed so well when
cut up into small pieces. It is a splendid decorative plant, standing
much rough usage. Moss the tops and afterward place pieces of the
stems, at least a foot long, in the bench of a cool house, as they take
their own time in sending up growths. The species and forms with
highly colored foliage will need a minimum temperature in Winter of at
least 55 degrees. The others will do all right with the thermometer 15
degrees lower. With the greenhouse kinds loam should predominate in
the potting soil, but the others should get a greater quantity of leaf soil.
For other kinds commonly grown see Dracaena.
CROTON— The Croton or Codiaeum, as it is now called, has in the
warmer parts of the country forged its way to the front as a choice bed-
ding plant, and very deservedly so, as the species and varieties are a
very satisfactory class of plants and much easier to handle than was
generally supposed a few years ago, when they were coddled all the year
round in hothouses. Several of the kinds are so easily grown that they
can be got up with as little trouble and as cheaply as 'geraniums; but
they are, of course, not the choicest varieties. Those stock plants which
were planted out early in May (that is a safe period here, but, of course,
later in colder latitudes) will, by the middle of August, have made good
ripened wood, which should beselected for propagating early in Septem-
ber. The cuttings at that period should be large and put in the bed
with only a few of the lower leaves removed. Let them form quite a
large bunch of roots in the propagating bed before being potted, as they
are a trifle miffy to take with the soil when they have only a scanty
supply of roots— enough to comfortably fill a 4-inch pot will be about
right. Those plants will need shifting during the Winter, and if kept in
a warm, moist house, will be well furnished plants in 5 and 6-inch pots
by bedding out time. The principal batch of the commoner kinds for
bedding may be put in by the middle of January. The old plants which
were lifted from the beds in the Fall should be pruned back severely, and
all the growth available for propagating selected. A good bottom
heat and a humid atmosphere are necessary to root the cuttings at
this time, as the wood is not in a very ripe condition. Cuttings put in
at any time should not be taken from plants which are dry at the root,
as they are then apt to lose leaves in the cutting bed. Cuttings 8 or 10
inches in length root as easily as the easiest rooting soft-wooded plants
if given a good bottom heat and a depth of 4 or 5 iuches of sand. There
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 23
is no necessity to have a frame; the open propagating bed will answer
nicely. Those plants which are intended to be planted out-of-doors
should have the hardening-off process begun by the end of April; if
taken directly from a hothouse the bottom leaves will fall off. Old
plants which did duty during the Summer months as bedders,and which
were planted out instead of being plunged in pots, should be kept well
syringed after being potted and housed, as they are very liable to the
attacks of thrips and red spider. When plants intended to be lifted in
the Fall are put out in May, I believe it is the best plan to sink pot and
all. They seem to thrive best with restricted root room so that when
lifted, although a few roots may be developed on top and outside the
pot, it is safer when lifted to shift them into larger pots than to lift and
pot plants which have been growing in the soil of the bed. With these
it is almost certain to be the case that a considerable number of leaves
will be lost. Most of the finer kinds will need a temperature of at least
60 degrees by night, keeping the air moist and giving water by frequent
sy ringings. Large cuttings in the sand bed or propagating frame should
be examined now and then, to guard against thrips and red spider. If
these pests appear, a syringing with a weak solution of the old reliable
Gishurt's Compound will prove beneficial.
Ringing Crotons — This simple operation is brought into requisition
when it is desired to root the top part of any particularly fine specimen.
The stem of the parent plant may be destitute of leaves for a considera-
ble distance above the pot, making the plant comparatively useless as a
specimen and only useful as a stock plant. Ringing, if successfully per-
formed, will give an almost perfect plant a foot or so high with large
leaves right down to the soil— a condition we can hardly hope for from
cuttings. Moreover, the rooted top sends out such a mass of working
roots that the succeeding growth is not stunted, but continues making
leaves every bit as large as the lowest ones— a condition much to be
desired when an evenly built up plant is wanted. Plants, then, should
be selected which have good, healthy tops with finely-colored, well-
developed leaves, and if the bottom part near the pot has lost its leaves
this is the only use it can be put to. The house in which the operation
is peformed should be a warm one and shaded from the sun, so that the
material used to produce roots will not dry up too quickly. Select
those pieces which are dormant or have made their growth, because if
plants are taken during the process of making leaves they are bound to
carry some disfigurement afterward. The stem at the place to be rooted
should be denuded of the leaves for two or three inches of its length, and
with a sharp knife remove a small section of the bark; or, just as good,
make an incision in the wood upward of about three-quarters of an inch
in length, and in depth from one-third to one-half the diameter of the
stem. Insert a little sphagnum moss to keep the incision open, then tie
a small quantity around it, not too much or it will be apt to keep too
wet. After being tied small enough, so that the fingers can easily close
on it, stand the plant back in its place and see that the moss does not
suffer for want of water, because should this happen the tender tips of
the roots will be lost and the process of rooting will to a certain extent
have to be begun again.
24 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
As soon as the roots show through the moss the plants should be
potted, but not potted in the ordinary way. Many pots are broken
trying to get plants out of them, but in this ease we will have to break
pots to get the plants in. Thumb pots are quite large enough for the
first shift; and these must be broken into two pieces lengthwise. One-
half of one pot and one-half of another will not do, as the pieces must fit
closely, therefore break as many pieces as are wanted, and lay the pieces
one on top of the other before beginning the operation of potting. Sup-
ports must also be supplied, consisting of two sticks, one on each side,
and reaching to the mossed part of the stem. On one of the sticks, just
about where the middle of the pot will reach, twist a piece of wire, then
clasp the moss with the two pieces of pot, twist the wire firmly around
these and then on to the other stick. This will keep the pot in position
until the time to sever the top from the plant. This condition will be
indicated by the roots appearing through the bottoms of the pots. If
the tops are not of the largest size they can be cut off and placed in a
close frame for a few days before potting on; if, instead, they are large, a
further application of material to the mossed part will be necessary.
For this purpose 3-inch pots will have to be used, and the material
should be fibrous peat, sand and loam mixed. When the roots show,
the tops may be cut off. Stand the pots inside of others of the same size
in the frame, until they recover to a certain extent, then pot and keep
close for a while longer, gradually giving air.
CURCULIQO— From the general appearance of the foliage one would
suppose that these plants were members of the Palm family instead of
being related to the Amaryllis. The leaves resemble those which are
undivided of Cocos flexuosa. C. recurvata is the only species grown.
The form with variegated leaves is one of our handsomest variegated
plants. During growth they require stove temperature for their perfect
development. They stand in a dwelling house fairly well. Propagation
is by division. Almost any kind of soil will answer; but as the plants
need large quantities of water the drainage should be perfect.
CYCAS — Cycas revoluta stems are often spoiled as a result of the
treatment they get in the way of potting immediately after being im-
ported. Having few or no roots they should not be placed in large
receptacles, as the soil when once watered takes too long a time to dry
out and is apt to become sour, which is anything but a favorable con-
dition to tempt the growth of fresh roots. Put the stems into as small
pots as they will go, leaving just enough space to ram the soil tightly
around them with a thin piece of wood. They will start into growth
best when in a warm, moist house, and require little water until they
show signs of sending up a crop of leaves. Plants of this class make
their annual crop of leaves, not one after the other, as is the case with
Palms, but simultaneously, and at this period they require close watch-
ing, so that the foliage may be prevented from being deformed in any
way from insect attacks, cold drafts, or coming in contact with other
things during development. The temperature should be higher at this
period than at any other. When roots are formed and a suflficient time
has elapsed after the development of the fronds, the plants may be given
uiAtr
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 25
larger pots. A minimum temperature of 50 degrees will suffice during
Winter.
CYCLAMEN— Cyclamen seeds, to insure even germinating, should be
sown as soon as convenient after ripening. The seeds ripen from April
to June. The sowing season is from September to the beginning of
December, and the seeds, between the harvesting and sowing periods,
should be kept in an open-mouthed bottle, mixed with dry sand. Al-
though the seed may be held for years it loses in vitality the longer it is
kept. The best flowered Cyclamens are varieties of C. persicum. Several
named varieties are offered by the large dealers, but when once a satis-
factory strain is secured the best plan is to set aside a few plants of each
color, and by artificial pollination each flower will ripen a capsule of
seed. To have plants in bloom by Christmas the seedlings will consume
from 12 to 14 months in completing their growth, and during that
period they should never be allowed to rest by withholding water, or
be subjected to other conditions unfavorable to -continuous growth.
The seed should be sown in shallow pan^ or boxes, in light sandy soil,
and covered to very little more than their own depth with finely sifted
soil and sphagnum, two parts of the former to one of the latter. The
swollen root-stock is formed before the first leaf makes its appearance,
and when the first leaf Is fully developed the seedlings are ready for
pricking off. During this process a minimum temperature of 55 degrees
will be suflicient. The seedlings may be put directly into thumb pots,
pricked off around the sides of 4 or 5-inch pots, or into shallow boxes,
keeping them at all times near the light, and in as uniform a state of
moisture at the roots as possible. By the middle of May those in the
most advanced stages of growth should be in 4-inch pots. At this time
they should get the full light from the north side of a house, the plants
being placed on inverted pots, and as near the glass as possible. The
glass on the south side should be shaded. For Summer quarters frames
are the best. The bottom should have a few inches of ashes to retain
moisture. The sash may be raised a few inches above the woodwork
by running pieces of wood along top and bottom. The best shading
device is probably a piece of cloth fixed to a roller, so that it may easily
be stretched over the glass during the hottest part of the day, or the
glass may be covered with one of the shading mixtures. Heavy rains
should not strike the plants, but they will be benefited by removing the
sash in the evenings, replacing them as the temperature gets too warm
the following morning. Greenfly, the cyclamen's greatest insect enemy,
may be removed by periodical syringings, or by scattering tobacco
stems among the pots. The plants should be shifted on as necessary,
the very latest ones getting their last transfer about the 1st of Novem-
ber, the earliest plants at least a month sooner. Well-developed speci-
mens should easily fill an 8-inch pan. The soil should consist of loam
mixed with lesser quantities of old manure and leaf mould; a little sand
and crushed charcoal will help to keep the mass in a porous condition.
In potting, the corm, or swollen stem, may be half buried in the.soil;
careful drainage is necessary. As soon as there is danger from frost the
plants are removed indoors; and to give good stiff stalks to the flowers
26 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
full light and an abundance of air sliould be afforded on all favorable
occasions.
CYTISUS in one or two forms is mainly grown as a midspring
flowering plant. Cuttings are rooted in February. The young plants
may be grown on in frames. Frequent syringings are necessary to com-
bat the attack of red spider. Pinch bacli the strong growths as soon as
they show a tendency to outgrow the others. Keep cool during Autumn
and the early Winter months.
DALECHAMPIA ROEZLIANA belongs to the same family as the Poin-
settia, and, lilve it, grown solely on account of its bracts, which are rose
colored. It is a warm house plant, but may be plunged outside in Sum-
mer to make abundant growth.
DESnODIun QYRANS— A plant of little beauty, but very interesting
because of the movements of its lateral leaflets, which are continuous in
a suitable temperature. Propagated by seeds or cuttings in a warm
house.
DRAC/ENA — D. Godseffiana is a plant of recent introduction; the
leaves are short, somewhat resembling in shape and coloring those of the
old D. ijhrynioides. D. Godseffiana, however, has the markings lighter.
When planted out in Summer, and well supplied with water, it makes
considerable growth. Every small twig may be rooted. Perhaps the
best use to which it may be put is in association with small ferns in
pans.
Dracaena Sanderiana I am afraid will never occupy a very important
place among decorative plants, because single plants do not make much
of a show in 5 or 6-inch pots. On account of its variegated foliage and
slender habit it can be used among ferns and mosses for jardiniere work.
Pieces of the stem with two or three leaves attached root quickly with
bottom heat. If wanted for filling pots above 5 inches, three or four
must be potted together.
D. Qoldieana is a handsome stove plant with short, broad leaves,
irregularly marbled with dark green and dull white. Tops may be
rooted and the canes left to sprout; or they may be cut up, sprouted
and rooted, as in the case of Cordyline terminalis.
D. fragrans, the most useful of the genus, grows 12 feet high, but
small specimens are well furnished with leaves. The plants will stand
much rough usage.
D. Lindenii and D. Massangeana are variegated forms. In propagat-
ing, when the stems have leaves, cut into lengths with a leaf or two to
each, and root like ordinary cuttings. These make stock plants. Long
leafless stems should be cut into lengths of about a foot and buried in
warm sand and moss. They sprout freely; the sprouts should be taken
off and rooted afresh before potting. The plants need slight shade in
Summer. All three require abundant root room and well enriched
porous soil, else they will show a sickly yellow hue on the leaves.
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 27
DROSERA BINATA, the finest of all the Sundews, a native of Austra-
lia, growing about 1 foot in height, will succeed in a cool greenhouse.
Give soil same as recommended for Nepenthes, covering with live moss.
This is an exceedingly attractive plant for private greenhouses. In early
Spring the leaves catch myriads of male greenfly; and the plant may
be regarded as a friend of the horticulturist.
DICHORIZANDRA THYRSIFLORA— Of the Tradescantia family, and
usually grown as a stove plant. In this capacity, unless given abun-
dant root room, the flowers are not produced in abundance. South of
Philadelphia it may be used as a choice subject for the open border in
Summer. The flowers, of a rich dark blue and the stamens yellow, are
borne on the upright shoots of the current year's growth, which Is about
2 feet in height. The flowering shoots may be cut in pieces, with a
single leaf to each if necessary, and rooted in the hot propagating bed.
They may be kept in a semi-dormant state during the Winter, as the
plants will form thick tuber-like roots.
DIEFFENBACHIAS— Some of the old plants of these ornamental aroids
will, by the end of Summer, have grown lanky, bending over the pots,
with only a few leaves terminating the stem. Take the tops off and put
them in the sand bed; lay the stems aside in a warm, airy place to dry
for three or four days, then cut them into lengths of about 2 inches.
Lay these aside to dry for a similar period, first rolling them in pow-
dered charcoal to lessen the danger of decay. Put in a box of nearly
dry sand, cover over about an inch and stand on the floor of a warm
house. When a few small leaves have been made to each sprout, pot in
a mixture containing at least one- third of its bulk of chopped sphagnum
moss; keep warm and moist. The tops, as soon as fairly well rooted,
should be potted, not in ordinary soil, but in a mixture of chopped
sphagnum, manure, leaf mould and sand. In this mixture the roots
fairly revel, provided a strong moist heat is given. In potting Dieffen-
bachias put them into as small pots as possible, and when a shift is
necessary they may be placed three together in a pot, making a well
furnished appearance in a comparatively short time. D. Baraquiniana,
Jenmanii, Veitchii, Bausei and grandis are among the best. They won't
stand much rough usage, being somewhat soft in the foliage; they are,
however, easily got up in quantity.
ECHEVERIA (COTYLEDON) GIBBIFLORA flETALLICA takes a promi-
nent place among serviceable flowering plants during January and Feb-
ruary. It is one which is attractive either in or out of bloom, and its
cultivation is unattended by any serious difliculties. When done bloom-
ing, which will be in a short time, its propagation may be gone about
as follows: Takeoff the top of the main growth with as much stem
attached as will enable it, when rooted, to go 2 or 3 inches into the soil;
to root them, take as many 4-inch pots as there are tops, stand them
on the bench, put a little moss in the bottoms, and then place a cutting
in each; this will cause the cut part to callus over without the danger
of rotting. In a short time the stems will give out hair-like roots, and
when these are from one-half to three quarters of an inch long, the cut-
tings may be potted, using soil on the dry side, and kept rather dry
28 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
until the plants have made roots enough to demand water. On the old
stumps rosettes of leaves will form, which in time may be taken off and
potted.
EICHORNEA— The Water hyacinth, Eichorneacrassipesmay be utilized
as amost attractive tub plant in the following manner: Put, say three
plants, in as many 5-inch pots of rich soil; fill a tub with water and sink
the pots just under the surface. Beyond wanting water to replace that lost
by evaporation they will take care of themselves; the surface will be-
come a thick mass of plants, with fresh flowers opening every morning.
Although this plant floats on water naturally, without the roots being
fixed in soil, it also flourishes in saturated ground at a surprising rate,
keeps a fresh, green appearance, and produces myriads of flowers; it is
well worth a trial for unsightly marshy spots.
Eichornea azurea is an interesting relative of the above, with darker
colored flowers. It is useful for planting around the margins of ponds,
covering quite a large water surface during a Summer's growth. Both
species are easily kept over Winter by placing a few on the surface of a
warm tank. They increase very rapidly during early Spring.
EPIPHYLLUMS— Epiphyllums are usually grown as standards; that
Is, grafted on the stems of other plants. This method is necessary, be-
cause the branches have a procumbent habit when the plants are on
their own roots. Rooted cuttings may be grown on and used in baskets
or other hanging receptacles. The species, three in number, and the
numerous varieties make very handsome Winter-flowering plants. Their
cultivation is simple. The stocks for grafting are usually Pereskia
aculeata and P. Bleo. The latter is the more robust grower, and there-
fore most suitable for tall specimens, P. aculeata being used for dwarf
ones. Cuttings of the Pereskias, which, of course, belong to the Cactus
tribe, may be rooted any time after the wood is fairly ripe. They may
be put in a dry and warm part of the propagating bed, and given water
only after they show signs of sending out roots. To graft, select stock
in which the wood is sufficiently firm; cut off the top part, make a cut
down the center for three-quarters of an inch or so, then insert a piece of
the ripened growth of the Epiphyllum, and run one of the Pereskia spines
through the whole to keep it firmly together, or tie with raffia until the
uni^n is completed. This will be effected in a few weeks in a good
growing temperature. Have the Pereskias in as small pots as possible
at the time of grafting, so that when the union between stock and cion
takes place the plants will start growing quickly by being shifted into
larger pots. The potting mixture should be very porous, as the least
stagnation is fatal to the roots. Sandy loam, broken brick, old manure
and a little leaf soil will be found best.
ERANTHEMUn PULCHELLUM produces one of our brightest blue
flowers. It is at its best in the greenhouse during late Winter. Put in
cuttings during early Spring; plant in the open border as soon as
weather permits, lift and pot in the Fall. Splendid specimens may thus
be secured.
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 29
ERICAS— Several years ago the growing of these plants in this coun-
try for commercial purposes was regarded as an impossibility, even by
those T^ho were familiar with their culture in Europe. But now, we
have them grown here as well as anywhere, simply by studying their
needs, and carefully attending to their wants. Propagation of the sev-
eral varieties may be effected during April before the active growth of
the season gets too far advanced. Have no undesirable vegetable
humus or mud in the sand. Secure a good-sized bucket, fill with sand
and push the end of the hose to the bottom, allowing the water to run
with considerable force for a few minutes. This will clean the sand of
all impurities. Pans or pots for the cuttings should have perfect drain-
age to within two or three inches from the surface; give about an inch
of peat or leaf mould and sand at the bottom, covering with an inch or
so of sand, which should be made firm. Keep close under glass while
rooting at a temperature never above 60 degrees F. During the Sum-
mer months keep the roots cool by plunging the plants in some porous
material, never allowing them to get too wet or too dry. It may be
stated here that roots of plants are divided into four classes — nutritive,
attachment, contractile and storage. In the Ericas the nutritive roots
are most abundant next the flower pot, so that an equable condition of
moisture is necessary to their existence.
E. persoluta, E. melanthera, E. gracilis and E. hyemalis, are a few of
the very many kinds grown.
ERYTHRINAS which are planted out in the back part of a cool frame
adjoining a greenhouses, for the sake of their flowers in Summer, should
get a mulching of stable litter to keep their roots snug for the
Winter. In the colder parts of the country the covering should extend a
foot or more up the stems, so that there will be no dangerfrom freezing.
In pruning leave as much of the stem as possible, only cutting off enough
to enable the sash to slide into place. E. crista-galli and the variety E.
laurifolia, together with E. Hendersoni, are the best for this purpose.
Old plants which have been bedded out for the Summer will Winter all
right beneath a bench, in a cold house, with some soil thrown over the
roots. E. Parcelli and E. marmorata, both varieties of Indica, have
variegated foliage.
Propagation— By the beginning of February start some of the old
plants of E. crista-galli, or any of its forms; they are far the best for
Summer work. If not in pots the old stumps may simply be covered
over at the roots with moss and given a minimum temperature of 55
degrees. Syringe occasionally to encourage growths for cuttings. As
soon as these growths are in the neighborhood of 4 inches in length take
them off with a heel, put in 2-inch pots, using a sandy mixture, and
keep them confined in a warm propagating case until they root; shift
into larger pots and gradually harden off.
EUPATORIUn PROBUn is the name of a species of this popular Winter
flowering genus which we do not see much of, and which may be grown
to come in after the well-known Stevia serrata goes out of flower. The
flower heads are as large as those of S. elegans. The only drawback to
30 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
its use as a cut flower is the clammy or viscid nature of the stems
and leaves. The plant is said to be a native of Peru; it was introduced
nearly thirty years ago, but has never become popular, supposedly from
its being confined to European gardens ever since. Two desirable Win-
ter bloomers with dark lilac or purple flowers, are known as E. ianthi-
num and E. macrophyllum. They are of little service for cutting from.
Plant out in late Spring after they are done flowering. This will give
good material for cuttings in September. E. macrophyllum is the
stronger of the two. Cuttings grown on in a warm, sunny house will
fill 5-inch pots by the first of March, and have very large panicles of
flowers.
EUPHORBIA (POINSETTIA) PULCHERRIMA — Poinsettias are grown
not on account of the flowers, which are small and inconspicuous, but
for the highly colored bracts which surround them. The flowers are
produced in midwinter. Both for cutting and as pot plants Poinsettias
are highly popular. There are three kinds in cultivation — E. pulcher-
rima, which is most commonly grown; E. p. plenissima, having a larger
number of bracts, and E. p. alba, with creamy white bracts. The kinds
are propagated in two ways, from dormant wood and from green cut-
tings. In employing the former method the old plants, after the flowers
have been cut, or in the case of pot plants, after the flowers have de-
cayed, the stems should be allowed to ripen thoroughly, by gradually
withholding water and subsequently placing them beneath the stage of
a warm house; while there they should be kept free from moisture at
the roots. During March the canes which can be spared should be taken
off and cut into lengths of about 4 inches. After the milky sap has
stopped exuding from the lower part of the cuttings, they should be
washed in warm water and dipped in powdered charcoal previous to
being placed in the warm propagating bed. While rooting the sand
should be kept on the dry side, only giving enough water so that the
roots will obtain sufficient nourishment. Instead of being allowed to
make long, spindling roots in the sand they should be potted in thumb
pots immediately the roots appear. Put a small quantity of rough
screenings in the bottom of each pot, and have the soil (loam and sand
in equal parts is best) in a fairly moist condition, so that a very slight
sprinkling through a flne rose will suffice for the first few days. When
green cuttings are preferred the plants may be started into growth after
the ond of April. Shake the soil from the roots and repot in rather small
pots. In removing the old soil it will be found that the nutritive roots
are decayed and only the storage roots remain. On coming into con-
tact with moist soil these storage roots speedily send out feeding roots,
followed by the expansion of the dormant buds on the canes. When the
growths are a few inches long they may be taken off with a heel, potted
singly and put in a close frame; or simply rooted in the sand bed and
potted when roots are formed. If kept growing w^ithout a check plants
from green cuttings will give the largest heads of bracts. Batches of
cuttings may be put in at intervals during the Summer. When well
started in pots all the plants may be placed in a sheltered position out-
of-doors, but in the full sun. When the pots in which they are to bloom
get full of roote clear liquid manure may be given with good effect.
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 31
Plants rooted during midsummer from green cuttings may be grown on
benches, much in the same way as single-stemmed Chrysanthemums are
grown. Before the approach of cool weather- all the plants should be
removed indoors, as they will lose their leaves on being subjected to
low temperatures. The wilting of the flowers of Poinsettias, or rather
of the gaudy colored bracts which surround the flowers, is due to the
milky sap secreted from the cut part. This hardens to a greater or less
extent, and clogs up the vessels through which the water should ascend
to keep the flowers and foliage fresh. A good way to circumvent this
is as follows: Some little time after the stems have been cut and a
goodly quantity of the milky sap has run out, cut off a small piece from
the end of the stem and stand the cut ends in warm water for a few
minutes. This will leave the cut part free to absorb all the water neces-
sary for their support. Blooms which have been drooping for a consid-
erable time may be revived in the same way.
Euphorbia Elegans (better known as E. jacquinia^flora) is less
easy to manage than the Poinsettia. A start should be made with soft
cuttings, with a heel or piece of the old wood attached. They should
be put in the open propagating bed instead of a frame, as their leaves
are very liable to decay, owing to the dampness. Place in 2-inch pots
and gradually shift on, keeping the plants in the full sun. Too much
water at the root should be guarded against. After midsummer the
plants may be plunged in an open frame to ripen their growth, and
removed indoors before the weather shows signs of getting cool.
EURYA LATIFOLIA VARIEQATA— Put in cuttings of this about the
same time as given for Azaleas. It is a plant very useful for decorating
and one which we see too little of. Give the same treatment in Summer
as recommended for Araucarias.
EXACUM AFFINE is the name of a compact bushy Gentian-wort,
which gives a. very good account of itself for Winter flowering in a mod-
erately warm house. Theflowers are bluish purple with yellow stamens
protuding from the center of the flower. It doesn't have the provoking
habit of some of the Gentians in closing its flowers during the latter
part of the day. Seed sown beginning of July will make fine plants by
the Fall. As soon as the seedlings are large enough they may be plunged
in a frame, where they will- need but little attention, as they do not suffer
from an occasional drying out.
FICUS ELASTICA is one of the most popular house plants, and one of
the most suitable for this purpose. The leaves are large and leathery
and not easily hurt through occasional neglect. Complaints are some-
times made of plants losing their lower leaves; in old plants this is
natural, as evergreen plants have their season of leaf shedding. Young
plants will lose leaves through insufficient or too much moisture or lack
of nourishment.
Mossing Out-of-Doors— Between old stocks of rubbers planted outside
and those kept in pots there is quite a difference in the quality of growth.
Those given unlimited root room in the open lot have a somewhat suc-
culent growth, with the leaves far apart, and altogether not in the best
32 STOVE- AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
condition for purposes of propagation. These may merely be notched
below every second leaf previous to inserting in the sand bed later on.
Plants growing in pots or tubs have much firmer growth, well ripened,
with the leaves quite close together ; elegantly suitable for providing
tops which may be rooted in large pieces and make salable plants in a
short time. To go about this operation successfully make preparations
during the first half of August by tying the growths to supports. Those
which answer the purpose best are pieces of wire stakes tied along the
stem, then at the point where it is desired to root the pieces remove just
enough of the leaves and make an incision in the stem upward toward
the growing point. Insert a little sphagnum moss, wait a day or so,
remove the moss; bathe with warm water to remove the congealed sap,
which, if left, will hinder a complete callusing of the cut part. Insert
fresh moss and tie a handful over the incision; keep moist until the roots
are showing through. The pieces should then be cut off, put in small
pots and placed in a close stucture for a few days until the roots begin
to take with the soil. Syringe only during that period. This is a very
important point. After potting either mossed shoots or cuttings (if
the soil is in a good working condition; that is, neither too wet nor dry)
absolutely no water should be given for a day or two; the atmosphere
kept moist, and an occasional syringing will be all that is necessary.
House=Qrown Plants— Rubber plants which are grown all Summer in
a house in a moist, high temperature, have a very different appear-
ance from those which are grown out-of-doors in the full sun, and the
difference is by no means in favor of the house-grown stock. The
leaves are naturally weaker, without the well-developed appearance of
the outdoor grown plants, and if the root conditions of the outside
plants are perfect, with a good mulch over the sunken pots, the growth
will be every bit as rapid in young plants, if not more so, with the
addition of a constitution which enables them to stand a whole Winter
in a dwelling house without injury. The variegated rubbers are indoor
plants, as they are apt to get scorched by the sun's rays unless given a
partially shaded situation. For keeping stock plants of these varie-
gated varieties it will be found a good plan to have them in rather
small pots and encourage roots from the stems, especially from those of
old plants. These stem roots, when they get among a mixture of ma-
nure and moss between the pots, or even among wet gravel, make
astcnishing growth, causing the plants to give an abundant supply of
material for cuttings, which they are otherwise slow to do when grown
in the ordinary way. Cuttings notched for a few weeks, tak5n off and
placed in sand with a brisk bottom heat, root quickly. Rubber plants
will keep in a dormant state even in a high temperature, with abundant
humidity in the atmosphere, by being kept dry at the roots.
Indoor Rubbers for Stock Plants— Reserve a place at the end
of a warm house for large over-grown plants. They make quicker
growth indoors during the warm months than they do outside, and for
the purposes of single-eye cuttings, the wood is preferable, as the spaces
between the leaves are longer. They should be planted in a solid bed.
If the old soil be unsuitable remove it to a depth of about 18 inches;
put some broken brick, clinkers or stones in the bottom for drainage,
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 33
some old leaves on top of this, and fill up with rich porous soil. Plant
moderately close together, pruning back those which require it; with a
few good stock plants a plentiful supply of growth for cuttings, or for
mossing, will be the result. The rubber when well grown can always
be depended upon as a ready selling plant.
Cuttings root poorly sometimes, and there are several causes. Single-
eye pieces are dibbled in an open bed with the leaf pierced by a stick to
keep it in an upright condition. During the process of rooting the cut-
ting is nourished.to a large extent by the moisture taken in by the under
part of the leaf; that is, when it lies flat on the sand, which it should
do. They will in this position root quicker and better. Another cause
of frequent failure is in taking the cuttings at the wrong time. The
plants have a period of rest and a period of growth. When a shoot is
in the process of developing a leaf rooting should not be attempted;
better wait till every part is ripened, then rooting is an easy matter.
In potting off do not allow the roots to get beyond an inch in length
while in the bed. They sustain injury easily when coming in contact
with anything. In lifting from the bed place the cuttings in a box with
the rooted ends resting on one side of the box, and not too many of
them together. Use soil of the same temperature as the sand. Two-
thirds loam and one-third sand is a good medium to start with; 3-inch
pots should be used. A shift will be necessary within three weeks.
Slow Rooting Species, and there are several of them in common use
for sub-tropical bedding In Summer, will be resting by the end of Janu-
ary unless they are kept In a very warm house; and In this condition
ringing and mossing, as the best means of increasing the number, had
better be attended to. Those which are slow in taking root In the cut-
ting bed, but quick to respond to the ringing process, are as follows:
F. dealbata, F. Porteana (a shade tree from the PhlHpplnes, by the
way), F. nymphsefolla, F. macrophylla, F. ferruglnea and F. eburnea.
While on the subject of Rubbers I may mention that for covering damp
walls In greenhouses for ornamental effect Flcus repens has been em-
ployed for a long time, but there Is a species, new to me, which Is a bet-
ter one for the purpose, judging by what I have seen of It. It Is named
Flcus falcata, and Is well termed, as the leaves resemble nothing so much
as a short knife blade. The plant grows very fast, has very dark green
foliage and sticks close to the substance against which It Is placed. A
good way to start young plants climbing, so that they may be easily
transferred to permanent positions, Is to fix the end of a piece of board
inside of a pot, allowing a space above the pot 6 Inches broad and 12
inches long; then pot the young plants close against the wood.
FUCHSIA— Old plants of Fuchsias should be started by the middle of
December to provide wood for cuttings. The plants should be knocked
out of their flowering pots, the balls reduced and given fresh soil. Place
them In heat and syringe freely. The growths for cuttings will start
almost Immediately. Do not take growths for cuttings which have
beeo on the plants all Winter, as the wood Is bound to be a trifle hard
and does not turn out the best plants; better wait till the growths are
tender enough. Even young growth, with the wood on the hard side,
34 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
does not make good cuttings. These should be taken off during the period
of fairly rapid growth and kept growing right along, or they will be
apt to remain stunted and come into flower before the plant is fully
developed. Fuchsias will bloom in 3-inch pots, but by keeping them in
a growing state, with abundant root room, they can easily be grown,
according to the variety, from 21/0 to 4 feet in height, before the flower
buds make their appearance. If wanted to bloom in 5-inch pots, pinch
back the leading shoots, and when the pot is well filled with roots give
weak liquid manure frequently. This wall prolong their blooming sea-
son. A single supporting stick for the main stem will be all that is
necessary, with perhaps a few supporting strings for the lateral shoots
in the case of those varieties having large double flowers. The soil
should be well enriched with manure.
FURCR/EA— A genus of plants closely allied to the Agaves. They
thrive with a little more heat than is usually given Century Plants,
otherwise their cultivation is pretty nearly the same. There are about
ten species in cultivation; those most commonly seen are F. cubensis,
F. gigantea and F. longa^va. The varigated form of F. gigantea is an
exceedingly handsome subject.
GARDENIAS— These are only grown nowadays in general collections
of plants. In Summer young plants will make good growth by being
plunged among some porous material in a frame. Cuttings are taken
from ripe growths. Plants will thrive in a warm, sunny greenhouse.
GLOXINIAS— So easily do the leaves of the Gloxinia produce tubers,
when properly manipulated, that it seems a roundabout way to get up
a supply of plants from seeds. The only drawback to the first-named
method, is that leaves are not always available in sufficient quantities
for propagating purposes. When plants are wanted in bloom before
midsummer, the seed should be sown in early Spring. The process of
raising seedlings is simple enough, if given the necessary attention; a
little neglect, however, when in the younger stages of their growth, is
very apt to occur, and that is the end of them. The seedlings are very
fragile for some time after germinating, and if the soil gets a trifle too
wet, or too dry, they suffer beyond repair. In preparing boxes or pans
for seed, let the soil be very porous and light, leaf mould largely predomi-
nating. Make very firm; give a watering, then sow; and if a covering
be given it should be of the lightest possible nature. If the atmosphere
gets at all dry, cover the receptacles with panes of glass, to prevent dry-
ing. If care be taken the seedlings may be allowed to grow until large
enough to be potted off singly in 2-inch pots, or they may be pricked off
thickly into boxes previous to potting off. For flowering late in Sum-
mer or early in Fall, sowings maj^ be made as late as the beginning of
July. In propagating from the leaves, various methods are employed.
The one most commonly in use is to take the entire leaf, make incisions
in the under parts of the principal veins (or they may be cut through);
lay the leaves flat on the sand with the stalk buried, and give only
enough water to prevent drying up. Small tubers will form at the inci-
sions and at the end of the stalk. During this process no leaves are
formed, and the tubers should be harvested and rested for the Winter in
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 35
dry sand. This operation is best performed after midsummer. Another
good method to get up stock of extra fine varieties from leaves, is to
cut them in sections resembling the letter V, the lower part to consist of
at least an inch of the midrib, and the leaf cut obhquely to the margin.
Treat them similarly to the triangular-shaped cuttings of the Rex Bego-
nias, so far as potting them in the sand goes; but keep on the dry side
w^hile forming tubers. Smaller tubers are made by this method than if
the leaves were laid flat on the sand; consequently it should only be
used when it is desired to make the most of extra good kinds. Old
tubers are successfully wintered over in the pots in which they have
flowered; or, to save room, they may be taken from the pots, the soil
removed, and stored in boxes of dry sand, keeping in a minimum temper-
ature of 60 degrees. In starting, bring to the light and give water, pot-
ting up when about an inch of growth has been made.
Diseases— The plants are liable to the attacks of a disease concerning
which little appears to be known. It first shows itself in tlie leaves,
small brownish spots appearing, as if the foliage had been burned by the
sun. The diseased surfaces gradually enlarge until the health of the
plant suffers to such an extent as to stop the growth of the flower buds.
Probably careless watering at the roots has something to do with the
trouble. Each plant should be examined at least once a day, because
the broad leaves lying over the surface of the soil are apt to hide a very
dry ball; and if the plants go without water for any length of time
when dry their usefulness is ended.
Soil— The Gloxinia is fond of leaf soil, and it may be used to the extent
of one-half the bulk, loam, sand and cow manuremaking up the balance.
They are not deep-rooting plants. Large seed pans should be provided
for the full-sized tubers. In saving seeds the capsules should be carefully
watched else the seeds will be lost. Up to the time of bursting open the
seed vessels are green; they split down the middle, suddenly exposing
the seeds, which are easily displaced.
GREVILLEA ROBUST A— This would be a popular plant were it not
that its general appearance is suggestive of the rag-weed. It is a first-
class house plant, and one very easy to get up. Seeds are sown in
March. Pot singly when quite small, and when in 3-inch pots plunge in
a frame until large enough for 5-inch pots. The plants will stand the
full sun. A cool greenhouse will suit them in Winter.
HAriELIA PATENS— A tender shrub very well suited for growing in
tubs. When the plants are in good health they are covered with flowers
during the greater part of Summer. Propagated from ripe wood in
early Spring.
HEDYCHIUn— These have long been grown in conservatories, where
plenty of room is at command. In small conservatories they are not
desirable. H. coronarium has pure white, sweet-smelling flowers. H.
Gardnerianum and its hybrid form are useful for planting near the mar-
gins of ponds, where their roots get an abundant water supply. They
may be rested under a bench during Winter.
36 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
HEERIA ROSEA and H. ALBA are easily managed greenhouse plants.
They may be depended upon to give a liberal supply of bloom in Win-
ter and Spring if they get anything like fair treatment. They are propa-
gated by cuttings taken from soft wood in the Fall.
HIBISCUS— The varieties of H. rosa-sinensis make first-class tub
plants. When thus cultivated they need liberal feeding, being robust
growers; and as the flowers are produced on the young wood there has
to be an abundant supply of this to have them looking at their best.
With the help of liquid manure bushes will thrive in the same tubs for
years. Autumn-struck cuttings, if grown on during Winter, will give 6-
inch pot plants by Spring. The varieties known as H. brilliantissimum
and H. grandiflorus are the best singles among the crimson varieties.
There are double reds, yellows and pinks; among the latter is " Peach
Blossom," which I grew for the first time last year. It has exceedingly
attractive flowers; the name describes the color of the flower well. The
plant blooms in a small state. All of the kinds delight in a soil having
a fair proportion of leaf mould. A quantity of crushed bone may be
added when the plants have to occupy the pots or tubs for any length
of time. The varieties of H. rosa-sinensis should be given a trial out-of-
doors; they grow and flower very luxuriantly. They may be kept dur-
ing Winter in a structure from which frost is excluded. In a low tem
perature, and kept dry at the roots, they are deciduous.
HYDRANGEAS FOR POTS — Hydrangea hortensis and its varieties may
be propagated either in Spring or Fall. When the work is done in
Spring the cuttings must be taken from plants which are being forced in
the greenhouse, the wood of which is in excellent trim for the produc-
tion of strong, healthy roots. Those shoots which show no signs of
blooming are the ones to be taken for propagation. The cuttings root
very readily if given a syringing overhead two or three times daily.
Pot in 3-inch pots and plant out from these about the middle of May.
Or the plants may be potted into 5-inch pots and plunged in well-rotted
stable manure. They are, however, easier looked after in the field, and
there make plants every bit as good. Moreover, when lifted and potted
they can be given fresh soil, which will suit them when taken in to force
in the beginning of the year; whereas those in pots may not require
shifting, so far as their size is concerned, and yet be benefited by fresh
soil Where Hydrangeas will stand the Winter some of each kind should
be planted out permanently, so as to give an abundant supply of mate-
rial for cuttings. These cuttings should be taken during the Autumn
months, encouraged to fill their pots with roots, and then go to rest.
When given a shift from 3-inch into 5-inch pots, and brought gradually
into warmth, they develop very large heads of bloom, and toward the
latter part of their development liquid manure is necessary.
Forcing— To have the forms of Hydrangea hortensis in bloom early
those plants which have been kept cool will by the middle of January
have lost their foliage, but if any remain cut it off to within a short dis-
tance of the stem. The plants, whether in 4, 5, or 6-inch pots, which
show that an increased size may be given, will stand the operation bet-
ter if the roots are disturbed as little as possible. The same size, or
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 37
those larger, which cannot be shifted and the ball preserved intact, are
beet reduced wheu the soil is somewhat dry. Put in a cool house after
potting, watering only to settle the soil; and syringe in order to start
into growth. After a start has been made the heat and watering may
be increased, and as the growth increases, weak manure water may be
given frequently.
iriANTOPHYLLUM — An indispensable plant for private collections;
grows best in a cool greenhouse. Large plants need shifting only at
long intervals, and for this reason the soil should have a good sprink-
ling of crushed bone and chtircoal. Increased by division. I. miniatum
and its forms are the finest.
INQA PULCHERRIMA — For flowering in a cool greenhouse during
March and April, but only in roomy structures, there are few things to
surpass this in the brilliancy of the flowers. These are arranged in heads
with an enormous number of stamens, which are the principal attrac-
tion. Take cuttings in February.
IXORAS— This is hardly a genus for the florist to deal with, as the
plants take more care than the prices obtained for them would permit.
There are numerous species and varieties, all of which are attractive
when well done. In the latitude of Washington, D. C, they make
growth best when plunged outside, and some of them flower profusely
out-of-doors. I. Colei is a good white; I. Williamsii, I. coccinea, I. Chel-
sonii and I. picturata are all very reliable species. They will thrive in
the warmest house during Winter. Peat, sand, and a little loam will
make a suitable soil. Cuttings should be put in during March.
JASMINUM QRANDIFLORUM— Although there are other meritorious
species, this is the one usually grown. Plant out the young stock in
May, and by the end of September they should be lifted and potted.
Keep in an intermediate house. The plants will stand full sunshine.
JUSTICIA (SCHAUERIA) CALYTRICHA— One of the best Winter flower-
ing species, producing yellow flowers in large heads. Cut back after
blooming to encourage growth for propagation. Keep the young
plants in the greenhouse during Summer, as they are not of a robust,
growing nature.
J. (Jacobinia) carnea and J. rosea — Cuttings of these should be put
in at the end of January; they root in a few days. The young plants
should then be grown on and used for Summer flowering in the green-
house. Almost any porous soil will suit them.
LIBONIA PENRHOSIENSIS is a charming Winter flowering, dwarf
evergreen shrub. Its culture is of the easiest description, and almost
any soil will suit the plant. Put cuttings in the warm propagating bed
during the latter part of February; plant out middle of May to make
growth; lift middle of September and flower in a moderately warm
greenhouse.
LOPEZIA RACEHOSA (Mosquito Plant) makes an exceedingly weedy
growth outside in Summer. Cuttings put in the beginning of Septem-
38 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
ber, and the plants kept in a sunny greenhouse with a minimum tem-
perature of 45 degrees, will give an amazing supply of bloom all Winter.
This plant is desirable only for private collleetions.
MAHERNIA GLABRATA— A dense-growing, dwarf evergreen shrub,
with small yellow flowers produced late in Winter. The flowers have
an odor much resembling that of the violet. The cuttings should be
made large, at least G inches in length. They should be taken before
growth begins. The roots are sparingly produced. Put the rooted cut-
tings at the sides of the pots, so that they will take easily with the soil.
MALVAVISCUS MOLLIS and M. ARBOREUS are greenhouse plants
which in Winter take up too much room as specimens, and should not
be growu for that purpose, as the flowers are not freely produced. For
outdoor planting they are good subjects, making a large mass of foliage
dotted here and there with bright red flowers. The new M. lanceolatus
from Mexico is the best for Winter flowering. The leaves are different
in shape from those of the two first-named species, and it blooms more
freely. Cuttings of all three root with the treatment given Coleus.
MARANTA— Of this genus M. smaragdina and M. Porteana are the
best. When well grown they are among the most ornamental foliaged
plants in cultivation. For culture see Calathea.
riEDINILLA— This magnificent fiowering plant must have a high tem-
perature, and should be in every collection of stove plants. The flowers
are arranged in large, drooping racemes. Cuttings root well when
placed in a pot of loose moss, in a warm frame, or on a well-shaded
bench of a warm house. M. magnifica is the species most commonly
seen.
riETROSIDEROS ROBUSTA and fl. SEMPERFLORENS are flowered
from imported plants. The treatment given for Acacias will suit them.
MONSTERA DELICIOSA— There are several excellent house plants
which are very little known, on account of the difficulty experienced in
propagating them in sufficient quantities. Among the best of this class
is the Monstera, a subject almost unique in the vegetable kingdom,
owing to the broad leaves having perforations all over their surfaces.
It iioeds little pot room, but plenty of water; in fact, the pot may be
placed in a saucer of water. It will continue to throw up leaf after leaf
in a dwelling house just as well as if in a conservatory, the bright emer-
ald green of the young leaves contrasting well with the deeper color of
the older ones. The easiest method of propagation is to cut up the old
stems to single eyes, and place in sand, in a warm house, where the cut-
tings sprout in a few weeks.
MUSA COCCINEA is sometimes grown for its brilliant red bracts. It
is a dwarf species and needs stove temperature. For other species see
Bedding Plants.
nUSS/ENDA FRONDOSAand H. LUTEOLA are handsome warm green-
house plants, cultivated for their colored bract-like growths.
STOVE AXD GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 39
NEPENTHES— These are known as East India Pitcher plants. In
their native habitats they grow as vines. Under cultivation they are
usually seen as dwarf, pot or basket plants. Nepenthes are very suita-
ble for suspending from the roof of a greenhouse, as then the curiously-
shaped appendages, or "pitchers," attheendsof the leaves are best seen.
Moreover, some of the kinds have long leaves, and when the pitchers are
half filled with liquid they hang lower than the base of the pot or bas-
ket. In this case the plants must be suspended from the roof. Their
cultivation, with the exception of a few species, is not difficult. There
are between 30 and 40 species, found principally in the East Indian
Islands. The temperature should not fall below 65 degrees at any time
of the year, and from this it may rise to 90 degrees with safety. At all
times I prefer growing these plants with as little ventilation as possible,
as under those conditions growth will be more vigorous and a heavier
crop of pitchers will be the result. Pruning is a very important matter
in their cultivation. With the possible exception of N. bicalcarata, none
of the kinds should be allowed to grow over a foot high. When a few
pitchers have been formed, or are forming on a shoot, cut the end out;
this will very materially help iu the development of those in process of
formation, and will cause new shoots to burst out on which more
pitchers will be borne. The material in which to grow Nepenthes should
consist of fibrous peat and sphagnum in equal parts. Charcoal, crushed
bone and sand in small quantities may be added. During the growing
season the plants must never be fallowed to get dry at the roots. One
and two-year-old specimens are the most satisfactory, although some
of the kinds will keep in good condition as long as they have good
material in which to make fresh roots. Shade during bright sunshine,
and syringe frequently. The sexes are on different plants, and so far as
I have observed all the species and varieties will intercross. Seeds are
sown on a finely prepared surface of chopped moss, covered with glass.
As soon as they can be handled the seedlings are pricked off in small
pots. Cuttings should be taken from the half-ripened shoots about the
beginning of December; they should be cut to single eyes only when a
large number of plants are wanted. Terminal growths, short and
stocky, make the finest plants, and in a much shorter time than single-
eye cuttings. In a propagating frame, with a bottom heat of 80 de-
grees, plunge the cuttings in sphagnum; they may be either pushed
through the hole of an inverted thumb pot or put in small pots, using a
rooting medium composed of sphagnum, sand and charcoal. I much
prefer the first method. Many beautifully marked hybrids have been
raised in recent years; these are, as a rule, easiest grown. N. Masters-
iana is one of the best; N. Dominiana, N. Henry ana, N. Williamsii, N.
Outramiana, N. Siebrechtii and N. Amesiana are all well worth growing.
NERIUM (OLEANDER)— Much grown as a tub plant, for which it is
well suited. Old plants should be kept as dormant as possible during
the Winter. Cuttings are rooted early in the season, and plunged out-
side when established in pots.
OCHNA MULTIFLORA is an interesting and beautiful cool greenhouse
shrub. The flowers are yellow. The calyx, at first green, changes to a
40 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
brilliant red on the ripening of the fruit. Propagated by Fall-struck
cuttings.
ORCHIDS— Although there is an immense number of species and forms
of orchids few of them are grown solely for their cut flowers. Most of
them produce flowers but sparingly, and are chiefly grown in private
collections. A large number being hybrids very few of each kind are in
cultivation; only those species and their varieties which are procurable
in large quantities from their native haunts are grown for cutting from.
Under favorable circumstances, and when their w^ants are understood,
Orchids are as easily grown as any other class of plants. The epiphytal
class has a growing and a resting period. During growth, as a rule,
they need lots of water, and when resting they are kept on the dry side
so as not to start shoots at the expense of the flowers. Shading is
necessary as the sun gets powerful, and a stagnant atmosphere must be
avoided at all times.
Potting material— This is mainly to supply a reservoir for moisture
during the growing period, and should consist of chopped fern roots, at
least six months old before using, live sphagnum, charcoal and broken
pots. If grown in pots or pans these should be filled two-thirds vrith
crocks, the plant elevated above the rim of the pot, using lumps of the
fern root, pieces of charcoal and finishing off with a thin layer of live
sphagnum. The best time to pot is before the plants start growth.
Calanthe— This is not an epiphyte, but a terrestrial Orchid growing
among soil. It responds very readily to good treatment. As the
demand for Orchid flowers is on the increase this must eventually be-
come a popular genus. It is one of the few which allows of being prop-
agated freely. Loam, peat, sphagnum and well-decayed cow manure,
with a little sand added, will form a good mixture. Good drainage is
necessary, as the plants, while growing, need heavy waterings. During
the growing season a high temperature is necessary, lowering it and
curtailing the supply of water when growth is completed. When done
blooming either shake the plants from the soil and stand them in empty
pots, or withhold water from the roots. They should be started in
March. Careful watering is necessary at first.
Cattleyas— These are the most popular Orchid flowers at present,
owing to their large size and delicate colorings. C. crispa is in flower
during July and later; C. labiata comes in during November. C. Triana^
and C. Mossiae are the most profltable, as they bloom at a season when
there is a demand for the flowers. Of both species there are numerous
varieties. C. Trianoe is in season from November to February, C. Mossiae
in May.
Ccelogyne cristata — If kept in a healthy condition at the roots this is
a very free bloomer. The potting material should be examined after the
flowers are gone, and if decayed replace with fresh material. In largo
specimens this is a tedious operation. A good size for flowering may
go into 10-inch pans. By the beginning of June we place our plants
under the shade of trees for four months, where they develop splendid
growth. Their flowering season in during February and March, and
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 41
immediately after, the shoots begin to push out. This species is easily
divided. New growths sometimes push out not only from the base of
last year's pseudo-bulb, but also from those of the two previous seasons.
Cypripedium, the ''ladies' slippers," are terrestrial and mostly ever-
green (our native species being herbaceous). The evergreen kinds need
copious supplies of water while growing, and even during the resting
season they should not be allowed to get dry. They may be grown
largely in peat and sphagnum. C. insigne, the one most frequently met
with, is best grown cool. It should be kept outdoors during Summer,
and to retard the flowering period may be kept in well-aired frames
until there is danger from frost. C. Spicerianum requires a warm tem-
perature, flowering in early Spring.
Dendrobium nobile is one of the oldest and easiest grown of the den-
drobes. D. formosum giganteum is an evergreen and requires heat. D.
Phalsenopsis is one of the finest for cutting, giving long stems without
injuring the plant.
Lselia anceps makes its growth from April onward. It is an abun-
dant bloomer, but on account of its resemblance to some of the Cattleyas,
and having smaller flowers, it is not so popular. Flowers in November
and December.
Odontoglossum— With the exception of O. citrosmum the species of
this noble genus have a struggle for existence in this latitude. Further
North they succeed better. O. Alexandras is one of the most popular.
Oncidiutn varicosum and O. v. Rogersii — Both bear large panicles of
pale yellow flowers. Both are natives of Brazil, blooming during early
Winter.
PALMS — This order furnishes the most important of our decorative
plants. Out of the large number of known species, comparatively few
are in cultivation, and of these a very limited number is grown by the
florist for this special line of work. Those kinds which are raised in
quantity are selected partly because they are easily and quickly grown.
The seeds are obtainable in large quantities, and because the plants are
exceedingly ornamental, and, as a rule, stand rough usage, to a certain
extent, without showing bad effects. Palms may be divided into two
sections— those with pinnate or feathered leaves and those with palmate
or fan-shaped leaves. Latania, Livistona,Chamgerops, Rhapis, Corypha,
Licuala and Thrinax are familiar examples of the section having fan-
shaped leaves; while the feather-leaved section is represented by Kentia,
Phoenix, Areca, Arenga, Cocos and Seaforthia. The commercial kinds
are grown in very large quantities by several firms, and so cheaply are
they offered that it does not pay to raise the seedlings in small quanti-
ties. For collections rather lengthy lists of species are offered by several
European seedsmen. The seeds should be covered to about twice their
thickness in sandy soil and kept fairly moist and warm until they ger-
minate. The drainage in the seed pan should be of such a nature that
the roots can be easily removed from it, as very little is gained, by pot-
ting in a very young stage. In this section of the country nearly all of
the species make rapid growth out-of-doors during the Summer after
42 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
they have reached a certain stage, say in 6-inch pots. They are plunged
in half-decayed stable litter and partly shaded with lath slats. Large-
sized plants will bear the full sun, but not when taken directly from the
greenhouse. When it is desired that plants shall occupy the same pots
for any length of time, very little, if any, vegetable humus should be
among the soil. Crushed bone and a little charcoal will be found bene-
ficial.
Areca (chrysalidocarpus) lutescens was grown largely as a decora-
tive palm a few years ago, but owing to its tender nature it has been
superseded by the Kentias.
Cocos Weddeliana in a young state is exceedingly ornamental, the
leaf divisions being narrow and close together. It will stand a lower
temperature than is generally given. It is admirably adapted for the
dwelling house.
Kentia (Howea) Belmoreana and K. Forsteriana are two of the best
kinds, either for house plants or decorating. When they reach a desira-
ble size they should be kept on the cool side, as they will then be less
liable to injury when used.
Latania borbonica (Livistona chinensis) is the best known of all the
fan palms. It sliould be grown under the same conditions all the time,
otherwise some of the leaf stems will be short and others long, making
an unsymmetrical specimen.
Livistona rotundifolia makes a very neat, little specimen plant. The
foliage is of a bright green color. This palm grows best in a warm
house.
L. Jenkensii is not much used as a decorative plant, but it is one of
the most desirable for collections.
Phoenix rupicola has taken the place of the older species. It is the
most graceful of the genus. P. dactylifera bears the date of commerce.
Euterpe edulis, Rhapis flabelliformis, Ceroxylon andicola, Corypha
australis, Cocos plumosa, Seaforthia elegans, Stevensonia grandifolia,
Licuala grandis and Caryota sobolifera are a few of the better known
species grown in collections.
PANDANUS VEITCHII— There are other variegated Screw Pines, but
none approaching this one as a commercial plant. No one will dispute
its right to a place among the best twelve decorative plants; in fact,
most people would put it in a shorter list. As a bedder it stands our
warmest weather without the least shade. As a dwelling-house plant
it has no superior, and as a stove plant, owing to its beautifully striped
leaves, it tends to relieve the dull monotony of green. There are good
and bad forms common in cultivation; those to be avoided have mono-
colored leaves, and leaves with dirty white variegation. The good one
has almost pure white markings. In selecting stock plants take those
which show lateral growths at or near the base of the plant. Large
lateral growths do not make good specimens, but they should be rooted
for subsequent use as stock plants. In rooting it will be found a good
method to put each piece into a pot of sand and plunge In a propagat-
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 43
ing bed having a brisk bottom heat. The large, succulent and easily-
broken roots which the cuttings make, being confined within the pots,
will be nicely preserved by shaking out the sand and replacing it with
soil, or by being shifted into larger pots, as the cuttings will keep many-
weeks in the sand after roots are made without injury. Stock plants,
which get too large and have an abundance of grassy side shoots, will
be encouraged to develop those if the young leaves of the main growth
be torn out. Young plants, plunged out-of-doors during the end of
May, should be examined from time to time, as the roots are apt to get
outside the pots; larger-sized pots should then be given and the plants
reiilunged.
P. utilis is a green-leaved species, forming very handsome plants even
in small pots. It stands well in a dwelling house, but, like P. Veitchii,
must be kept on the dry side during the resting period. P. utilis is raised
f 1 " seeds which, if fresh, germinate well. The soil for both kinds should
bo porous and enriched with a small quantity of bone meal.
There are several other species, none of them grown largely, being
principally found in collections. P. javanicus variegatus is quite as
handsome as P. Veitchii, but needs more heat in Winter, besides the
hooked spines pointing two ways on each leaf is a feature very much
against it. P. Baptistii is a handsome variegated plant, but too soft
for use outside of a stove. The true P. graminifolius is not of much use
outside of collections.
PARIS DAISIES— For Winter blooming the cuttings should be put in
during late Spring. By the end of July they should get their last pot-
ting for the Summer, be pinched back and plunged, so as to make large
heads for Winter-flowering. These Daisies .can be made to pay during
the dull months from the number of flowers which can be cut from
them. They are not so common as they might be, and Daisies in Winter
are very desirable flowers with some people. Large plants are useful
about Easter time. Left-over plants in Spring can be planted out to
furnish cuttings for Fall propagation, to give medium-sized plants in
flower for early Spring sales.
PAULLINIA THALICTRIFOLIA is an elegant plant for clothing the
tops of unsightly tubs in which Palms and other plants are growing,
being also useful for large vases. It stands the sun well. The foliage
somewhat resembles the leaves of Adiantums. Cuttings in September
are placed in heat.
PHORMIUM TENAX and its forms are rather stiff-looking plants, espe-
cially in a young state; older plants furnished with an abundance of
foliage are more attractive. To increase, plant out in very sandy soil in
May and divide in September.
PERESKIAS— These are seldom grown for their value as decorative
subjects. The flowers of several of the species are of a rather pleasing
appearance, but they last only a short time and are not freely produced.
Two of the species, P. aculeata and P. Bleo, are common in cultivation,
and are used chiefly as stocks for the gaudy-flowered Epiphyllums,
which see for treatment.
44 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
PEPEROniAS— Useful little plants with peltate leaves, finely marked
with bands of white between the principal veins. They grow best in a
warm greenhouse with shade. Peperomia Saundersii is grown either
for filling shallow pans, mixed with other plants, or as specimen plants
for the window. P. maculosa and P. marmorata are also well worth
growing. Propagation is effected at any time of the year by placing
entire leaves, with a piece of stem attached, edgewise in sand.
PHYLLAGATHIS ROTUNDIFOLIA belongs to the same family as the
better known Sphoerogyne latifolia atid Cyanophyllum spectabile. It
somewhat resembles the former in gf>neral appearance. A few plants of
it were given a test last year, outside during the Summer, in a position
partly shaded from the sun. They behaved splendidly, and in a position
like the above, where the surface of the soil is covered with some low-
growing plant, such as Hydrocotyle or Lysimachia, to keep the sun
from the roots, it may become a valuable feature for outdoor decora-
tion. But for indoors, it may be used as a substitute for the more
gaudy-leaved Sphoerogyne, as it succeeds in an atmosphere where the
majority of greenhouse plants can be grown. Propagation for small
plants is by the leaf, the petiole of which is inserted in sand, the blade
lying flat on the surface and the ribs severed in several places. From
the cut parts nearest the petiole, numerous small growths are made;
these, when-an inch or so high, may be potted up. For making speci-
men plants quickly old subjects which have been encouraged to branch
may be cut up, and the pieces inserted in pots in bottom heat. They
send out roots very quickly.
PHYLLANTHUS NIVOSUS and P. ATROPURPUREUS— These are hardly
suitable as florists' plants, but for public or private establishments they
should always be grown, as their foliage, in a young state especially,
is most beautifully colored even when grown in the open air during
Summer. In this latitude we plant them out along with other bedding
material; they are exceedingly effective. The old plants are cut back
severely in Autumn, potted and stored in a rather warm house. In
February cuttings of the medium thick wood are taken, and rooted in
strong heat.
PHYLLOT/ENIUn LINDENII— This plant, which belongs to the Cala-
dium family, should be employed for decorative purposes more than is
the case at present; not only because the foliage differs from the small
number of kinds of plants used for decorative work, but mainly for the
reason that it will stand the rough treatment given to those plants
more so than one would expect. It is a stove plant and one of the most
ornamental. After a goodly number of leaves have been developed in a
warm, moist atmosphere the plants will continue to keep up a presenta-
ble appearance with ordinary greenhouse temperature, and they may
even be used as house plants. The leaves are shaped somewhat like
those of the fancy-leaved Caladiuraa; the texture is much firmer, the
color is green with white markings along the principal veins. Propaga-
tion is by division. Before repotting put the pieces in a warm sand bed
to encourage fresh roots.
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 45
THE PLUriERIAS are a neglected class of plants somehow; we see
them only in places where a general collection of stove and greenhouse
plants are grown, and yet their flowers are large, showy and sweet
smelling. The stems and foliage have an ornamental character of their
own. They make very rapid growth in Summer, being well suited for
tub culture. The plants should be kept dry during Winter. The leaves
will fall off early, and the pots or tubs in which the plants grow may be
laid on their sides under the bench of a greenhouse. In propagating,
which may be done best during February, the cuttings may be taken
from 6 inches to a foot long; stand them upright or leaning against the
back part of the propagating bench, but not with the bases buried in
the sand. Nor should they be allowed any water for a week or two.
After the cut part is well healed over they may be potted in almost dry
sand, in which they root quickly if put in a brisk heat.
PRinULA SINENSIS has not by any means been left behind in the im-
provement of florists' flowers. The latest strains put on the market
would almost be taken for new species by those who only knew the
plants of 20 years ago. P. sinensis is a popular Winter blooming plant.
The seed may be sown as early as the last of March to have plants in 5
and 6-inch pots in bloom before Christmas. Later sowings should also
be made, but it should be borne in mind that the plants make their best
growth during cool weather. They may be summered in a well-aired
and shaded frame.
P. Forbesii is a wonderful species when we consider the enormous
number of flowers produced on even small plants. Several plants may
be potted together in shallow pans.
P. floribunda has a very floriferous form named P. Isabellina; the
flowers are creamy white.
Primula obconica would seem to be in the process of being evolved
from the rather inconspicuous flower of the type to one not unworthy
to stand alongside those of the finest strains of Primula sinensis. One
of the European seed firms, a year or two ago, offered seed under the
name of P. o. grandiflora flmbriata, a sowing of which I made at the
time. The resulting seedlings corroborated all that had been claimed
for them. Some are heavily fringed, and range from pure white to deep
rose. The largest individual flowers are a little short of being an inch
and a half in diameter. The plants are exceedingly floriferous; some in
6-inch pots have the foliage almost hidden with bloom. To have plants
in flower by the first of the year the seeds should be sown as early in the
season as possible. Cover the seed very lightly with finely screened
sphagnum, moistening the surface whenever it shows signs of becoming
dry. As soon as large enough to handle the seedlings may be either
potted off singly, or placed around the edge of a 3 or 4-inch pot previous
to giving them their first pots. During the Summer the seedlings should
be shaded from the sun and never allowed to get dry. They do not
make much headway during the very hot months. The plants will not
Buffer if given their last shift just as they are coming into bloom. Keep
in the coolest house.
46 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
Fertilizing Primula Flowers— Any extra good forms of Primula sinen-
sie or P. obconica, desirable on account of large flowers, shape, or color,
should be set aside for seed. During the Winter months, when insects are
scarce, fertilization -will have to be done by hand, as it is rarely the case
that a flower of Primula is fertilized by its own pollen. For seed plants
preference should be given to those having the pistil protruding from
the corolla tube. It may be stated that primroses have two kinds of
flowers, each kind on separate plants, one having what is called the
style elongated until the stigma shows plainly from the mouth of the
tube formed by the bases of the petals, while the stamens are attached
near the bottom of^ this tube. In the other flower the positions of the
organs are reversed, the style being shortened so that the stigma is
more than half way down the tube; and the stamens are in full view
near the mouth of the tube exactly in the position occupied by the
stigma of the long-styled flower. The pollen of the Primrose is ripe
before the petals are expanded, but at this stage the stigma of the s^me
flower is not in a condition to receive it. Those flowers having elon-
gated styles are easiest to manipulate, and if I am not mistaken, they
are the best seed bearers. Pollen, from either short or long-styled
flowers, may be applied to the stigmas. When it is necessary to fertilize
those with short styles, it is, of course, impossible to get at the stigmas
with a small brush, owing to the anthers filling the mouth of the corolla
tube, but with a pair of small scissors the corolla tube may be snapped
in two immediately below that part to which the stamens are attached,
thus giving easy ingress to the stigma. Keep the atmosphere as dry as
possible while the pollen is acting.
REINWARDTIA (LINUH) TRIQYNUM and R. TETRAGYNUM are both
desirable Winter flowering plants. R. trigynum is the best known; the
other one has light yellow flowers and is the most floriferous. They
may be planted outside, middle of May, and lifted during the end of
September, if large specimens are required for the greenhouse; or from
cuttings rooted in April they may be grown on in pots, pinching occa-
sionally. R. trigynum is the only one which seeds freely.
ROCHEA FALCATA or Crassula falcata, is the principal member of a
small genus of plants indigenous to the Cape of Good Hope. The
fol'age is rather peculiar in that the leaves are thick, blunt and formed
somewhat after the shape of a curved knife. The principal attraction
lies in the flowers, which are bright scarlet, small, but produced in im-
mense numbers in flat heads. Although in Summer it will stand an
abundance of water in fully exposed situations, it should be given drier
conditions in Winter. It will succeed well enough in a house suitable for
Geraniums. The Rochea is a slow-growing plant, consequently getting
up a stock is a tedious process. The tips of the shoots make the finest
plants, and the pieces of the stem next the place where the tip has been
taken off, can be utilized for as much of its length as will be safe to
enable it to break out again. For leaf cuttings the leaves must be cut
off cleanly and put in sand, much in the same way as Echeverias, only a
little more heat should be given during the rooting process. Encourage
old plants to send out small growths along the old stems by taking out
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 47
the tips and keeping tlie plants perfectly dry for a time. As soon as they
begin to breali, water may be gradually supplied.
RUELLIA MACRANTHA— For a greenhouse plant for amateurs this is
one of the best. Its cultivation is very simple. Cuttings rooted in
September vi^ill furnish fair-sized flowering plants by the end of January.
These may be planted out, end of May, in the open ground; by the end
of September they will have made considerable growth; and if large
specimens are wanted they may be lifted and potted. The flowers are
very large, tubular-shaped, and magenta in color.
RUSSELIAS— Russelia juncea is an old plant but too seldom seen; it
is probably the most useful of all our basket or vase plants. It sends
out long arching branches of rush-like growths with flowers of an
intense scarlet. Planted singly in vases there are few things to equal it
in appearance. To propagate it take a handful of shoots at a time and
cut them into lengths of from 4 to 6 inches. In this way 200 cuttings
may be made with two strokes of the knife, and every one will root. R.
Lemoiuei and R. elegantissima are both good. The flowers are smaller
than those of R. juncea, but more of them are produced. The two latter
are better Winter flowering plants than R. juncea.
SARRACENIAS— Natives of the Eastern States. There are six species
and a large number of hybrids; much prized in Europe owing to their
curiously-shaped, and in some cases highly-colored leaves. S. Drum-
mondii, a native of Florida, is the finest of all the kinds, none of the hy-
brids approaching it in the gorgeous markings of the foliage. Sarrace-
nias are best grown in a cool, sunny house. The potting material
should be the same as recommended for Nepenthes.
SALVIA SPLENDENS— When it is desired to raise this fine late Sum-
mer-blooming plant from cuttings, old plants may be lifted, the flowers
cut off and the plants set in a cool house. Under these conditions the
growths made are softer and root very quickly, a single plant giving a
large number of cuttings. Fall propagating is somtimes done in a
hurry, owing to the sudden arrival of a cold spell, and this Salvia i?iay
be lifted and stored in safety without the loss of much time.
Salvia Splendens " Bonfire " is an improvement on the old kind, being
of a deeper color and more compact in growth.
There is a very large number of species, but only a few in general cul-
tivation. S. leucantha is very late in coming into bloom, making enor-
mous growth during the Summer. It is well worth growing even for
the short season of bloom. S. patens is one of the handsomest blue-
flowered plants in cultivation. Store the roots under a bench and start
early to get cuttings; or it may be raised from seed.
SAINTPAULIA lONANTHA is a very pretty dwarf, blue-flowered plant,
the leaves resembling those of a Gloxinia but smaller. With little trou-
ble it may be had in bloom at almost any season. The end of March is
a good time to propagate. Cut off the ripened leaves with about an
inch of stalk attached and insert in the sand bed, covering only a small
part of the leaf blade. The sand should not be kept too wet during the
48 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
process of rooting. Otherwise, the treatment may be similar to that of
the Gloxinia. The plants may he flowered all the year round, or given
a period of rest by partly withholding water.
SPHCEROGYNE LATIFOLIA— This stove plant bears the distinction of
being one of the finest foliage plants in cultivation. Together with
Cyanophyllum magniflcum, another noble leaved plant, it belongs to
the same order as ourcommon Meadow Beauty (Rhexia). Both of these
plants look as if they would be very difficult to propagate, but, on the
contrary, they are exceedingly easy subjects, so easy that if the condi-
tions are all right, there is no excuse for losing a cutting. Mossing the
tops is a rather slow and unsatisfactory method, and, I think, single
eye cuttings can be just as rapidly grown into specimens as successfully
rooted tops. During January the plants are in less active growth than
at any other period, consequently this is the best season for putting in
the cuttings. Split the stems, making single eye cuttings; shorten back
the leaves to within about 2 inches of the leaf stalk, leave about 21/^
inches of stem (less than this will root poorly); put firmly in sand of
warm propagating bed, taking care that the under part of the piece of
leaf lies flat on the sand; cover with glass. Hooting will be indicated
by the buds elongating. Pot in thumb pots and keep close for a time.
STEPHANOTIS FLORIBUNDA— A great deal of roof space may be suc-
cessfully utilized in the growing of this plant, the flowers of which can
be profitably disposed of at all times. The plants may be put out in
benches in the greenhouse and trained up the rafters, but the bench must
be one which will not need repairing every now and then. The best
plan is to have a rather deep box of soil specially prepared. Fibrous
loam, enriched with manure; some charcoal and crushed bone will keep
the soil open. It is not necessary to have a high temperature in Winter,
as most of the growth will be made during the Summer months. Start
with cuttings, as they flower much more abundantly than plants grown
from seed.
STEVI AS— Cuttings are struck in late Spring. Put in 2i/2-inch pots;
from these they are shifted into 4-inch pots. About the beginning of
August they are transferred into 6-inch pots. To prevent the plants get-
ting wiry constant pinching should be resorted to. Pot-grown plants
are ^jreferable to field-grown subjects for late flowering, as the plants in
pots can be stored in a place from which the frost is just kept out, so as
to fill space vacated by Chrysanthemums. Field-grown plants may get
their last pinching during September, and in the benches should be
planted quite close together.
STREPTOCARPUS HYBRIDS— These have now attained such a high
degree of perfection that they should be included in every general collec-
tion of greenhouse decorative plants. They are better window flower-
ing plants than is generally supposed, not requiring a very high tempera-
ture at any time. Seed, to produce flowering plants in the Fall, should
be sown during March. As the seed is very small, extra care should be
taken in the sowing and subsequent treatment until theplants are large
enough. In connection with the germination there is a peculiarity not
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 49
noticeable in other plants. Two tiny seed leaves are produced shortly
after sowing the seed, and after a while one of these seed leaves dies the
other continuing to elongate. In some of the species, notably one
name S. Wendlandi, this seed leaf, which at first was about the size of a
pin head, expands till it gets about 18 inches long and a foot broad.
STROBILANTHES ANISOPHYLLUS and S. ISOPHYLLUS are very neat
and useful Winter blooming plants for the warm greenhouse. Flowers
are light purple. Cuttings should be taken in early Spring. Plant out
for the Summer, lifting and potting end of September.
SYNADENIUn QRANTII is a very campact-growing euphorbiaceous
plant, with bright green foliage, bearing no flowers in a small state;
and those which come on mature plants do not have much to recom-
mend them. This is one of the easiest plants to root. By merely stick-
ing pieces about 8 inches in length in the soil about the end of May, they
take root quickly, making a good display for the balance of the season.
STEPHANOPHYSUM (RUELLIA) LONGIFLORUM— For conservatory
decoration this is a most useful plant during the dull months, small-sized
subjects being covered with bright red flowers. The ease with which
flowering plants may be had by the end of the year is remarkable. Cut-
tings are put in the usual time that soft-wooded bedding plants are
propagated; they root in a few days, after which they are put in 3-inch
pots. Three of the plants may then be put in a 6-inch pot, and by keep-
ing them in a growing temperature they may be had in full flower two
months after the cuttings are taken. It is not only useful as a Winter
blooming plant but it comes in well for planting out in Spring, bloom-
ing satisfactorily during the Summer.
TINNEA /6THI0PICA— A shrubby greenhouse plant sometimes called
the Tree Violet, owing to its flowers having the same fragrance as the
violet. It is propagated from good-sized cuttings of the dormant wood.
TOXICOPHL^A SPECTABILIS— A Spring blooming stove shrub.
Flowers are pure white, borne in dense clusters. Should be treated
similarly to the Ixoras.
50
Bedding Plants.
ACALYPHAS— There are about eight species and varieties of Acalypha
grown as bedding plants. With the exception of A. hispida (Sanderi)
they are ornamental foliage plants, having bronze-colored leaves of
varying shades. A Godsefflana and A. Hamiltoniana are marked with
creamy white margins. A. Wilkesiana has several variations, the best
known of which are A. Macafeeajia and A. musaica. A. hispida has very
ornamental pendant spikes of red flowers, produced in the axils of the
leaves. Cuttings may be taken in the Fall before the cold weather in-
jures the plants, but to save space the old plants should be lifted, cut
back, and boxed or potted, starting them into growth in early Spring,
when they push out from every bud giving abundant material for
propagating.
AQERATUM MEXICANUM— This is one of the most tender bedding
plants, although it does not require much heat during the Winter. Lift
old plants and keep in a greenhouse; they will give an abundance of
growths for cuttings during the months of February and March.
ALTERNANTHERA— The dwarf and slow-growing Alternantheras,
such as A. brilliantissima and A.paronychioides are unsatisfactory from
cuttings, unless taken in late Summer and kept growing. When taken
later they are apt to continue in a weak condition all through the Win-
ter. But in either case they take up too much room in the greenhouse
for nearly eight months. A much better method is to lift the old plants
before the frost blackens them, cut over to within three or four inches
from the roots; put the cut-over plants as thickly as they will go in
boxes; give water once and jdace under the benches of a warm house,
where they will get some light. About the beginning of March bring
the boxes up to the light, sprinkle about an inch of sand among the
plants, and give water. Two weeks later divide the plants and pot
them, when it will be found the pieces are much superior to plants from
cuttings and make a better and quicker display in their Summer
quarters.
ALYSSUM riARITIMUM (Koeniga)— The plant known as Sweet Alys-
sum is one of the last to succumb to cold weather. In this locality it is
frequently in bloom up to the middle of December. It is used for win-
dow boxes, vases and baskets. A few plants may be lifted, cut back
and planted in the front part of a rose or carnation bench, where they
will furnish abundant material for cuttings in the Spring.
AflARANTHUS will germinate out-of-doors and make fair-sized plants,
but to have them at their best the seed should be sown in the beginning
of March, in a warm house, and near the glass, as the seedlings get very
weak unless given all the light possible. As soon as large enough they
are pricked off into boxes, and, when they reach the proper size, potted
singly into 3-inch pots planting them out from this size. Their value
BEDDING PLANTS. 51
lies in the highly colored foliage, no other class of plants surpassing
them in this respect. In the hottest parts of the country they do not
last long after attaining their full size, and may be successfully used
among Canna plants, which have been set out in a semi-dormant state.
ANNUAL PLANTS are those which germinate, come into flower and
ripen their seed within a year. Plants of this nature usually die soon
after ripening their seeds. Familiar examples are as follows: Phlox
Drummondii, Chinese Aster, Browallia elata and Silene muscipula. But
these and many other plants known as annuals under favorable circum-
stances will germinate in the Fall and flower the following Summer.
In this locality Phlox Drummondii and Silene muscipula germinate freely
in the Autumn months out-of-doors, and flower the following year; so
that it will be seen that the term cannot be strictly applied similarly in
varying latitudes.
ASCLEPIAS CURUSSAVICA— A greenhouse plant in European gar-
dens. Seeds sown first half ofj February, and the plants put out from
3-inch pots in Ma3% will grow 5 feet high and 3 feet through, bearing
myriads of yellow and red flowers. Seeds ripen freely on outdoor plants.
ASTERS, CHINESE (Callistephus chinensis)— A few years ago Chinese
Asters started early (about the beginning of February) and flowered in-
doors proved remunerative; but so easily are they grown that the mar-
ket soon became overstocked. Their habit of growing to a great height
in the greenhouse can be guarded against by selecting the varieties,
planting wide enough apart and giving the maximum amount of light
and air. They should take the place of exhausted Carnations or Mi-
gnonette. The outdoor crop need not come in bloom all at the same time;
the first lot may be safely planted out during the middle of April in
most places, the seeds being sown in very shallow hotbeds about the
end of February.
BANANAS (flusa) — The ordinary fruiting Bananas for sub-tropical
bedding will do well in almost any part of the country. With a plant
or two to start with no trouble need be experienced in getting up a
stock, as they sucker freely from the bases of the old stems. If there is
difficulty in disposing of them, which is not likely to be the case, as in
every community there are some people who like things which are un-
common, then use them for the decoration of the home grounds with
such plants as Cannas, Eulalias and dark-leaved Ricinus. This combi-
nation will make a display that will be hard to equal. There are few
things easier to keep over Winter. On the approach of frost the leaves
should be shortened back by two-thirds of their length, the plants lifted,
roots shortened back considerably, and stowed as thickly together as
they will go in a box and placed in some out of-the-way corner, where
frost will not get at them. They will pull through the Winter all right,
in a pretty low temperature. When planting-out time comes they are
rather uncanny-looking objects for the center of a bed; but they are not
long in developing a crop of leaves.
The hardiest species of the genus, and one splendidly adapted to
our Summers, is known as the Abyssinian Banana, M. Ensete. It does
52 BEDDING PLANTS.
not sucker like the ordinary edible fruited varieties, but is easily raised
from seeds. Sow them the latter part of January in the sand bed of a
warm propagating house, and pot off the seedlings w^hen they have de-
veloped three or four leaves. They may be potted earlier if kept in bot-
tom heat. In one season they will, under favorable conditions, grow 6
feet high, and if lifted, kept over Winter and planted the second season,
they will develop into very large specimens. They delight in rich soil.
M. superba— A species somewhat resembling M. Ensete, is of a slower
growth. The foHage is slightly covered with a farinaceous looking
substance. In Winter the leaves die down, the bases of which form a
resting bulb-like formation. It should be started into growth before
planting out. These plants are raised from seed.
BALSAflS (Impatiens Balsamina)— Many florists depend to a great
extent upon the white camelha-flowered Balsams for supplying mate-
rial for designs during Summer. Although there are other things more
satisfactory the Balsam will continue to be used, as it can be depended
upon to grow with a minimum amount of care. The crop is sometimes
disappointing, owing to a large percentage of the seedlings bearing
semi-double flowers. Those plants with very double flowers do not set
seed very freely, of course, and the temptation is evidently great, in
gathering a seed crop, to collect the capsules from the verj^ abundant
crops on the single-flowered plants to tha exclusion of those on the
doubles and semi-doubles. A few plants of the best types carefully lifted
from the field during dull weather and put indoors, will seed more fr-eely
than when left at the mercy of wind and rain, or panes of glass may be
fixed over extra choice plants in the field. For each plant get two pieces
of wood, making a cut of about an inch deep with a wide-set saw near
the top; have the sticks driven into the ground on opposite sides of the
plant, with the cuts facing each other; into these cuts slide the panes.
This looks like a lot of trouble, but it is better to do it than to be with-
out the flowers. For late crops the seeds may be sown out-of-doors and
transplanted. To have them in bloom early sow in shallow hotbeds
and transplant about the middle of May, earlier or later, according to
locality.
The Zanzibar Balsam, Impatiens Sultanii, makes a very showy bor-
der plant, and needs very little care after being planted out. Sow the
seeds in heat about the 1st of March; keep growing to prevent flower-
ing in a young state.
BEGONIAS— Seeds of the bedding varieties should be sown by the be-
ginning of January, to have the plants in good shape for Spring sales.
Cuttings are often used, but they do not make anything like as good
plants as those from seed. The seed should be so\vn in boxes or pans.
Sterilize the soil used on the surface, firm well, water, then sow thinly
without covering the seed, or with only a very small quantity of fine
sand, covering the box or pan with a pane of glass until the seeds vege-
tate. Some of the varieties used for bedding, and which do grandly in
most localities, are Bruantii, Erfordire, Vernon, Vulcan and Zulu King.
Out-of-doors all of them will ripen seed by September. Seed of some of
BEDDING PLANTS. 53
each should be saved, keeping it until wanted for sowing, without
bursting the seed vessels.
Begonia corallina is undoubtedly the best of all the shrubby Bego-
nias for outdoor use. The larger the specimens when put out the finer
the display. Small plants in 3-ineh pots must necessarily make fresh
growths from the root, in order to attain one or two feet in height, and
in doing this the best part of the Summer is spent; but large, healthy
specimens will break freely into growth from the old wood and produce
myriads of bright red flowers. An abundant supply of propagating
material can be secured from out-door plants just before freezing
weather. Old plants will hibernate in boxes under the bench of a mod-
erately warm house.
BELLIS PERENNIS— The best kinds of double daisies are perpetuated
by dividing the plants after blooming, but in many parts of the country
these plants do not survive tiot weather. Seeds should be sown during
September, and the plants Wintered in a frame.
BROWALLIA ELATA — A blue-flowered 'annual species, may be sown
where it is to bloom. In this locality the numerous varieties are hardy
annuals.
B. speciosa may either be raised from cuttings or seeds. When
grown cool both are good Winter blooming plants for the conservatory.
CANNAS — The first lot of rhizomes intended for bedding purposes
should be started during the first part of February. These should be
the tinest kinds and those which it is desired to increase, because even
the smallest pieces having one dormant point, started early, will make
plants large enough to occupy 5-inch pots by the time for planting out.
Leave as much of the rhizome to each point as possible, as it will send
out new growths from the dormant buds between the scales. In the
formation of the rhizomes scales are first formed entirely encircling the
rhizome, which, as it reaches the light, gradually elongate until true
leaves are formed. The main crop may be gone over during the first
half of March. Cut up the rhizomes into pieces small enough, so that
when the time comes for potting, each piece will fill a 5-inch pot. Before
potting they should be put in material which will encourage the forma-
tion of roots, and the best for this purpose is sphagnum, sand and rotted
cow manure in equal parts. When the rhizomes are potted without
roots they always turn out unsatisfactory. Some start immediately
but the majority remain dormant, and take up valuable space for too
long a time. Use boxes to start the rhizomes; place a couple of inches
of the material in the bottom, put the pieces on this and cover with at
least one inch of the rooting medium. Water only sparingly at first; as
the growths push up give full exposure to the light.
Varieties— It is only a very few years since the principal feature of
the Canna was its foliage, the blooms being small and comparatively
insignificant. Within the last decade the development of the flower has
been very marked. The beginning was made in Europe, and from the
first of the improved forms numerous fine varieties have been raised in
America, so that now anyone can take a few good flowered sorts, pol-
54 BEDDING PLANTS.
linate the flowers, and among the resulting progeny will be found some
as good, if not better, than the parents. A new race has recently sprung
up known as the orchid-flowered Cannas; these have been secured by
crossing the Crozy section with the large yellow flowered C. flaccida.
The flowers are very large and showy, but the direct cross between the
two is not very suitable as a bedder, owing to the soft nature of the
segments. There are at present indications of the orchid-flowered section
being considerably improved in the substance of the flower, so that in a
few years they will be more largely grown.
Varieties with Ornamental Foliage— Some of the varieties are grown
for the foliage alone; these are either slightly variegated or with the
leaves dark red. Black Beauty has for several years been by far the
best of this class, and likely to remain so. It should never be planted
out in a dormant state.
Raising from Seed— The seed covering is very hard and resists the in-
fluence of heat and moisture for a long time under ordinary conditions.
Germination may be hastened by soaking the needs in warm water, and
also by removing a very small piece of the seed covering. In any case
sow early and in a bottom heat of from 75 to 80 degrees.
Storing— Cannas should be lifted from their Summer quarters just as
soon as the foliage is blackened by the first frosts. Before this occurs
they should be gone over and labeled correctly, noting the color, size
and comparative value of seedlings. Use hanging labels, tying them on
firmly as near the ground as possible. Cut off the flowering stem about
6 inches from the ground. Put the kinds together. If there be green-
house accommodation a position under the benches,- where they won't
get much drip, will suit them exactly. If greenhouse accommodation is
not available they should be closely packed together in boxes, using dry
sand, and stowed away where frost will not affect the rhizomes.
CH^NOSTOMA HISPIDA— This charming dwarf shrub is not so well
known among florists as its merits deserve. It is useful in a number
of ways, but principally as a plant for filling boxes or baskets. For
rock work, cemeteries or even as a bedding plant it is prettier than a
number of the things commonly used for such purposes. It has a pro-
cumbent or decumbent habit, according to the position in which it finds
itself, and has the great merit of being continually decked with a host
of neat little pinkish white star-shaped flowers. It is remarkably quick
in making a bushy growth from the seedling or cutting stage. For
propagation lift old plants in the Fall; keep in the greenhouse and take
cuttings from the young growths early in the Spring.
CINERARIA MARITIMA and C. CANDIDISSIHA are much used on
account of their foliage, v/hich is densely covered with very fine white
hairs, so much so that the leaves have a whitish appearance. The most
reliable method of propagation is from seed, which should be sown in
Autumn. Cuttings may also be taken, avoiding those which are very
robust. Give them treatment similar to that recommended for Gazanias.
C0DI/6UM (Croton)— It is only within recent years that these plants
have been used to any extent in the open ground. They succeed well,
BEDDING PLANTS. 55
putting on colors much superior to wliat we usually see indoors. Some
of the higher colored varieties are unsuited for this work, as they need a
high temperature at night as well as during the day. The following are
the kinds which I have found reliable: C. Lady Zetland, C, pictura, C.
aucubsefolium, C. chrysophyllum (one of the most satisfactory), C.
multicolor, C. interruptum, C. Veitchii and C. Weismanui. As these may
be grown successfully from 10 to 15 degrees cooler than C. Reidi, C.
Challenger and others of that section, they should be given a trial even
in the Northern States. The principal batch of cuttings for bedding
plants is taken beginning of September. If there is no bottom heat by
that time they will root splendidly in a close propagating frame. With
bottom heat they root in the open bed, and the cuttings may be quite
large. Allow quite a quantity of roots to form before potting. A mini-
mum temperature of 60 degrees will be found sufficient during Winter
for the above varieties. Before putting them in the ground they must
be very gradually hardened off otherwise they are apt to lose the lower
leaves. Old plants should be given a top-dressing of bone meal and
plunged out, to furnish cuttings.
COLEUS— Owing to the easy way in which young plants are got up
their rapid growth and very ornamental foliage, when planted out, the
very numerous kinds will continue to be popular bedding plants. In
Winter young plants should not be subjected to a lower temperature
than 55 degrees. From a few plants grown from cuttings, put in dur-
ing the beginning of September, a large quantity of young plants may
be raised in Spring. In this latitude we have little use for hotbeds. In
other localities, where the nights are colder during April and the first
half of May, the hotbed is an indispensable adjunct to the greenhouse
for developing plants such as Coleus from late rooted cuttings.
COSMOS BIPINNATUS— To have the plants complete their growth
early the seed should be sown indoors, or on a hotbed by the middle of
March. Give the seedlings enough light to avoid weak growth. Plant
out in rather sandy soil, and not too heavily manured. C. sulphureus
has yellow flowers; late blooming plants of it may be lifted and put in
large pots, or planted out in a bench where there is abundant head
room. When grown on stiff soil the plants fift easily. Some of the
more robust shoots may be removed, owing to the loss of some of the
roots in removing. In this way they will give a large quantity of bloom
up till the middle of December.
Supports for the Plants — We frequently see a very promising crop of
Cosmos laid flat on the ground by a moderate wind storm, which not
only breaks half, or more, of the branches, but the flowers on those
which are left are at least a week later than usual in making their
appearance and have crooked stems into the bargain. Drive in a fence
post at each end of the row, stout in proportion to the length of row,
with smaller posts at intervals between; knock in some small wire
staples at convenient heights in the post; let one man unwind wire or
strong string at one end of the row, and another take the end of the
wire or string and put through the staples, securing firmly to the strong
posts at each end. Two or three stretches to each row will suffice, and
56 BEDDING PLANTS.
if tied afterward with string will help to secure the plants in an upright
position against storms.
COTYLEDON (Echeveria)— Frequently used for carpet bedding.
Some of the best for this purpose are C. atropurpurea, C. californica, C.
clavifolia, C. fascicularis, C. gibbifiora var. metallica, C. secunda var.
glanca,C.imbricata, C. Pachyphytum, C. mirabilis,C.globosa var. exten-
sa, and C. eximia. The narrow-leaved kinds are raised in quantity from
leaves; others from seed, offsets and from cuttings. November and De-
cember are the best months for propagation. Pull the leaves from the
plants, taking care during the operation that the bud in the axil of the
leaf is preserved. Make a depression, say 2 inches deep and 4 or 5 inches
wide, across the sand bed of a warm house; lay two rows of leaves in
this with their bases touching; keep dry until the little growths start.
When large enough they sliould be pricked off close together in boxes.
Old plants should be lifted in Autumn and placed as thickly as they will
go in boxes, without adding much soil and keeping them without water
in a cool house.
CUPHEA PLATYCENTRA and C. LLAV^— A few plants Wintered
over in a moderately warm house will give cuttings in March. C. Llavae
has large and handsome flowers, but they are not freely produced until
the plants have made considerable growth.
DAHLIAS — The Dahlia delights in a cool and humid atmosphere, but
immediately the mercury gets anywhere near the freezing point that is
the end of the plant's usefulness for the season. Old plants are cut back
to within 6 inches of the soil, dug up, and the soil removed from the
fleshy tuber-like roots; they are then stored for the Winter in a dry and
frost-proof structure.
Propagation— Although the kinds are perpetuated by division, graft-
ing and cuttings, the latter method is the one best suited for raising
large quantities of young plants. The roots are brought into heat
about the 1st of March, covered over with some light soil, and encour-
aged to make growth by frequent syringing. As soon as the shoots are
3 or 1: inches long, separate from the parent, taking them with a heel.
They can then either be put singly in small pots and kept close and
warm until rooted, or put in an ordinary propagating bed with a bot-
tom heat of 75 degrees. The sand need not be kept very moist, but the
atmosphere should contain enough moisture to prevent wilting. As
soon as weather permits the plants should be put out in a frame to
harden.
Varieties— The large and perfectly symmetrical flowers are rather
stiff and artiticial looking for cutting purposes. The cactus-flowered
section do not have this fault; nearly all of them are well worth grow-
ing. The Pompons, especially those with white flowers, can be utilized
for various purposes. The single-flowered varieties can all be used for
cutting; this section seeds freely, and some of the strains offered by
European seedsmen come remarkably true, but good kinds should be
perpetuated from cuttings.
BEDDING PLANTS. 57
Soil— This should be very rich and light, and if the plants are put in
positions where it is inconvenient to water them during dry weather
they should get a mulching of half-decayed stable bedding.
ERYTHRINA— The varieties of E. Crista-Galli are seldom without
flowers during the hottest months when ijlanted out. During Winter
they should be kept dry, under a bench, and may even be put out iu that
state, although quicker results may be had by starting them into
growth before planting. They are best propagated by glvin;j: the old
plants heat and moisture, to produce growths about the 1st of March.
When a few inches long take off with a heel, pot iu siyidy soil and stand
them in a warm propagating frame.
FICUS ELASTICA may be associated with such plants as Vm negated
Screw Pines, Crotous, Variegated Panax and Dracaena Sanderiana in
the formation of tropical groups of plants. They make very rapid prog-
ress when plunged in 5-inch pots shortly after being potted from 8-inch
pots. All of these may be arranged where the full sun will strike them.
The Ficus must be examined from time to time, to prevent the roots
from establishing themselves outside of the pots.
QAZANIAS— Decumbent composite plants from South Africa, of a
somewhat succulent growth, and succeeding well in partially shaded
positions. In the Northern States they thrive in full sun. The flowers
are large, deep orange. Owing to the succulent character of the plants
the cuttings are liable to decay when placed in wet sand. Put them in
boxes, using sandy loam. Make the soil quite firm; give one good
watering, then put in the cuttings and keep in a cold but close frame
until rooted. This may be done about the end of September; on the
approach of severe weather bring the boxes into a cool greenhouse and
pot off in early Spring.
GERANIUn— See Pelargonium.
HELIOTROPE (Heliotropium peruvianum)— Grown principally on ac-
count of the sweet-scented flowers. There are dark and light lilac varie-
ties, also a few with whitish flowers. A few years ago a very large-flowered
kind was sent out, but it had no perfume, and its first season was its last.
The kinds will succeed best in full sun. Old plants should be wintered,
planted out on a bench. A minimum temperature of 40 degrees will suit.
From these plants abundant material for propagation may be had in
early Spring.
HUNNEMANNIA FUMARI^FOLIA, for late Summer and Fall cutting,
beats all other members of the Poppy family. Seeds of the earliest
flowers will have ripened by the end of September. They should be
gathered and laid away in a cool, dry place for sowing in early Spring,
taking care not to burst the seed vessels. The only difliculty attending
the cultivation of this Poppy is in the seedling stage. The young plants
are difficult to transfer from the seed pan to small pots, but this can be
avoided if the seeds are sown in small pots, with the soil firmly pressed
before sowing and shifted on as the plants require it. The flowers resem-
ble those of some of the Eschscholtzias, to which genus it is closely
allied; but there Is much more substance to the flowers of the Hunne-
58 BEDDING PLANTS.
maDnia and also to the flower stem». They can be cut and kept in
excellent condition for several days. It thrives well in sandy soil, and
needs but little attention in the way of watering after planting out. It
sometimes stands the Winters in the District of Columbia, but oftener it
gets killed outright.
ISOTOHA LONGIFLORA— This plant is figured in Curtis' Botanical
Magazine under the name of Lobelia longiflora. It belongs to the order
CampanulaceaB. In Europe it is grown as a greenhouse subject. In
America it is one of our most showy white flowering biennials for the
open border. The* plants before coming in bloom are anything but
attractive, as they closely resemble some of our common coarse-grow-
ing weeds. The flowers, on large plants, are anything but sparingly
produced; they are pure white, an inch or so across the petals. Sow
the seed in a cool greenhouse in the Autumn, or in a warm house early in
Spring. Each plant will ripen an immense quantity of seed.
IRESINE (Achyranthes)— As a bedding plant, treat much the same
as Coleus. They will stand a lower temperature. Cuttings put In dur-
ing September can be used as stock plants in the Spring.
LANTANA— Low-growing greenhouse shrubs with yellow, white, red
and purple flowers in small, close heads. They are perfectly at home in
the open border, growing most luxuriantly in heavy, well-manured soil.
The leaves and flowers have an undesirable odor, which is against their
ever becoming very popular. Take cuttings early, and from plants thus
raised they may be further propagated during February. A minimum
temperature of 50 degrees will suit all of the kinds.
LOBELIA ERINUS— -A very popular bedding plant in Europe, but
short-lived here, owing principally to the high temperature during mid-
summer. A few old plants kept on a bench along with such things as
Heliotrope and Ageratum will give] fine cuttings, which are rooted be-
ginning of March and transferred to a hotbed, to make growth.
MESEMBRYANTHEHUM— The pretty little variegated Ice plant,
known under the name of Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum,
has a habit of damping off in the propagating bed when treated like the
majority of bedding plants. A way to circumvent this is to prepare
shallow boxes of sand ana leaf-soil. Give one good watering previous
to putting in the cutting. Let the ''oxes stand for a few hours, put in
the cuttings quite close together and stand them on a bench over the
heating pipes. Give no more water till rooted; that is, if the soil does
not become too dry; in this case the cuttings should not be watered with
a rose. This variety is one of the prettiest of dwarf bedding plants, and
should be more commonly grown. M. crystallium, M. tricolor, with
pink and white flowers, and M. amoena, the latter an evergreen species,
are all used for outdoor planting. The annual kinds should be sown
indoors beginning of March. Cuttings of the perennial kinds should be
rooted in Autumn.
MIGNONETTE, (Reseda)— For pot culture sow beginning of Septem-
ber in 3-inch pots; leave three of the strongest seedlings in each pot, and
long before the plants are pot-bound shift into 5-inch pots. Keep in the
BEDDING PLANTS. 59
coolest house, where' they can be given abundant ventilation and full
sun at all times. About two quarts of soot to a barrel of water makes
a good liquid manure. For blooming out-of-doors sow thinly as soon
as weather permits.
For early flowering seed may be sown during the first half of August.
The method of sowing the seed on the benches is the one there is the
least difficulty with, and that calling for the least amount of intelli-
gent care, as a number of seeds can be sown at each station where they
are intended to flower, and the strongest plants left. This system is
not always convenient, however. Other methods consist of sowing in
pots and planting from them, or in boxes or pans, and pricked out from
these into'small pots, shifting if necessary, and planting out when the
proper time arrives. Mignonette seedlings, when they get beyond a
certain size, are exceedingly difficult to prick off successfully; but when
taken as soon as they can be handled there is little danger of failure if
ordinary precautions are taken against damping off, suffering from too
much or too little water, or from the direct rays of the sun until the
seedlings are established. Mignonette likes cool treatment, so that
attempts to coddle it by giving a high, close atmosphere will not pro-
duce flowers worth the cutting, if they ever reach the flowering stage.
The soil to grow it in should be well enriched with cow manure, and
well firmed before either sowing or planting. There are several kinds
on the market to select from; but there is not so much in the variety as
in the way it is grown.
MIMULUS MOSCHATUS— An old-fashioned plant with a musky odor.
It will keep in a frame during the Winter, and may be brought indoors
early in the season, divided into small pieces and potted. It grows best
in a shaded cool house, or it may be planted out in a moist shady spot.
niRABILIS JALAPA— This species (the Marvel of Peru or Four
o'clock) has tuberous roots, and in Winter may be stored in the same
way as the roots of the Dahlia, or raised annually from seeds sown in-
doors. The flowers are very showy, of various colors, principally yel-
low, crimson, red and white.
NlEREriBERQIA FRUTESCENS and N. GRACILIS— Seeds of these
should be sown in September and plants wintered in a frame. The fol-
lowing Summer they will make much better subjects than from Spring-
sown seed. They are principally used in large vases, but they make
exceedingly showy plants for the rock garden and border.
NIQELLA DAflASCENA— As soon as the weather permits seeds may
be sown rather thinly where the plants are intended to bloom in the
open border.
OXALIS— For outdoor blooming during September and October
knock out a few plants from their flowering pots and start some of the
largest bulbs about the middle of July in 3-inch pots. Use light soil.
Some of the plants will be in flower inside of a month. They can be used
as bedders, to take the places of plants which die off as the result of
warm weather; for instance, Ten-Week Stocks, Lobelias and Pansies.
Oxalis Bowiei, O. hirta, O. rosacea, and one which goes under the name
60 BEDDING PLANTS.
of O. crydentelles, are all very suitable for this kind of work. Plants
which were in bloom during the Winter and Spring may be started for
this purpose after a few weeks rest.
PANDANUS— For bedding purposes the best plant in this genus is
P. Veitchii. It will thrive in almost any position, but it makes better
leaves in full sun than it does in shade. As young plants increase in
value up to a certain size, they should be put out in their pots, and once
or twice during Summer should be examined at the roots and larger
pots given if necessary. The roots are large and soft, and when they
grow over the sides of the plunged pot and into the surrounding soil
they are difficult to manage afterward.
PANSIES (Viola)— To have pansy plants ready to put out in the Fall
the seed should be sown about the middle of August, and even earlier,
where the weather will permit. In the very warm weather the princi-
Ijal danger is in the damping of the seedling plantsshortly after they have
germinated. Sow thinly and cover lightly with screened moss, or old
manure, giving only enough water to keep the surface slightly moist.
In the warmer parts of the country it will require good judgment in
selecting a suitable place for the seed boxes during germination. One
can be secured by raising some shaded sash above them, in a place
where the air is not apt to get stagnant. As soon as the seedlings are
large enough to handle, they should be pricked out in boxes of moder-
ately moist soil, and for some time only given gentle sprinklings through
a fine rose to prevent wilting. They are put in their Winter quarters by
the beginning of October and given a mulching of rotted manure shortly
afterward. In this way they can be grown in the same beds with low
growing bulbous plants, such as Crocus, Galanthus or Scillas, these
bulbs going out of flower just as the Pansies are coming in, securing a
season of bloom from the time when the snow disappears until very
warm weather, or, in Northern latitudes, all Summer long. In some
parts the plants make sufficient progress before the advent of cool
weather, not only to bloom, but to send up numerous shoots from the
base of the plant. This is a good opportunity to select cuttings of the
finest forms to raise seed from. Take those cuttings having a small
piece of solid stem; put in sand, treating them as cool as possible. As
soon as rooted place in boxes of light soil and Winter in frames, plant-
ing out as soon as weather will permit. It should be borne in mind
that plants put out in the Fall always give the best results in Spring.
Pansies to Flower in Frames— If sown early enough and potted off
the seedlings will show the colors before planting and thus enable the
grower to select those which are best for selling. These should be
planted in a frame facing south so that they will catch all of the sun-
shine available during the Winter months. If pinched back frequently it
will induce the plants to make bushy growth before freezing weather;
then mulch with leaf soil or old manure, giving air whenever the weather
will allow of it. They will throw up an amazing quantity of bloom
early in the season, which will pay to cut with the foliage attached so
that good long stems can be secured. Pansy seed should be sown in
very shallow boxes. The plants delight iu a low temperature and a
BEDDING PLANTS. 61
soil which is open enough to enable the email succulent roots to ramify
freely through it. It is not necessary to have the soil largely of vegetable
humus; one that answers well may be made up as follows: Screen
some soil through a No. 8 sieve; the rough material which does not go
through the meshes put through a No. 3 sieve. This, mixed with leaf
soil, to one-third of its bulk, will insure a good germination. The idea
is to keep the roots in a healthy growing, state with abundance of air
around the seed leaves to prevent damping off. Pansies do better out-
side during Winter than most people suppose. Planted early with a
little mulching, and if the weather gets very severe, some old stable
bedding thrown over them, will give all the protection necessary. For
plants for Spring sales the seed may be sown late and Wintered in cold
frames, or it may be sown early in the Spring; but the most satisfactory
plants are obtained from early sowing.
Tufted Pansies— These are what the Scotch florists up to within a few
years ago used to call bedding Violas; but as Pansies, tufted Pansies
and Violets are all members of the genus Viola, the use of the generic
name for any one section of the genus has generally been discarded.
The tufted varieties are hybrids from V. cornuta, V. lutea and V. trico-
lor. They spread at the root much more than the ordinary Pansies do,
making a great mass of flowers, especially in cool climates, for the
greater part of the Summer. After Pansies having become so popular
in this country I am afraid the tufted Pansy would have a struggle for
existence in the estimation of the ordinary flower lover. Although in
the tufted Pansies there is a greater diversity of color, more graceful
flowers, and the plants are very floriferous, the flowers are much smaller
than in the ordinary .Pansy, and it is a question if they would become
popular.
PELARaONIUn-(This genus includes the bedding Geranium). Cut-
tings are rooted during the end of September or first half of October,
according to locality. Plants that are well developed without being
"drawn" are best for supplying wood. The usual method is to put
each cutting in a thumb pot and stand these close together for the time
being in a frame or cool house. Leaf mould, sand and loam in equal
parts will answer as a soil. Give one watering, enough to moisten the
soil; subsequent waterings will be necessary only when it gets dry.
Take the cutting immediately under a joint and shorten back the large
leaf blades one half. By the end of the year they should be shifted into
3-inch pots, using stronger soil, and a month or six weeks later the
plants will give a batch of cuttings which may be potted like the first
lot. A hot, stagnant atmosphere must be avoided at all times. A sav-
ing of time and space may be accomplished, together with providing
equally fine plants, if the old method of propagation be adhered to.
This consists in putting the cuttings, made with the leaf blades short-
ened somewhat, into boxes pretty thickly together, standing the boxes
outside, partly shaded from the sun until they root. Little water is
given during the operation, and heavy rains are to be guarded against
by having sash ready to cover the plants. The soil used should be such
as to enable the rooted cuttings to thrive in it until January when they
62 BEDDING PLANTS.
are potted up. If kept on the dry side they will bear considerable cold,
and will be prevented from making a too rapid growth. By this
method there should be no necessity for putting in a second batch of
cuttings from the tops of the first lot. Give this method a trial on a
small scale, until familiar with its working.
Ivy=Ieaved Section— The stems of these are not so succulent as those
of the Zonales, and should be rooted in the sand bed. Old plants potted
up after being cut back will give abundant material for propagation.
Fancy Pelargoniums are of no service for bedding, as they have only
a short flowering period. In this latitude they are never seen at their
best, and it hardly pays to grow them. In the Northern States they do
better. Cuttings should be put in early, and kept in a growing condi-
tion from the start. Large plants are secured by reducing the balls of
one or two-year old plants and repotting.
PENT AS CARNEA— More familiar as a stove plant than for bedding
purposes. In the warmer parts of the country, however, it will give
three months of rather showy bloom. Treat the cuttings similarly to
those of Lantana.
PERISTROPHE ANQUSTIFOLIA— A rather loose growing, but dwarf
and finely variegated plant, useful for vases and baskets. Propagate
in Spring from lifted plants.
PETUNIAS— It Is always advisable to sow the best strains of the
double Petunia seed, as the majority of the seedhngs will furnish all the
single flowered plants necessary for ordinary use. The doubles can
easily be picked out from the singles before the flowering period. They
are known by their stocky appearance, the singles having a decidedly
"annual" look shortly after the seedling stage has been passed. In
order to prevent washing of the soil after the seed is sown, use boxes,
say 3 inches deep; put a shallow layer of sphagnum in the bottom,
make the soil firm, give a watering sufficient to wet the soil through;
then when the surface will admit of the operation roughen it with the
ends of the fingers. Sow the, seed thinly and smooth the surface with
the end of a cigar box without covering with soil. A pane of glass or a
piece of damp cloth placed over the box will prevent a too rapid evap-
oration of the moisture till the seeds have germinated. They may be
sown during the first part of February.
PHLOX DRU/VinONDII— The numerous varieties of this popular flower
should be sown by the middle of February. The single whites and reds
are most in demand. In sowing cover the seeds with sphagnum rubbed
through a No. 4 sieve. In a moderate temperature they will germinate
inside of a week. After the seedlings are large enough they should be
pricked off into boxes from which they should be transferred to pots
later in the season. When put in pots during the seedling stage they are
apt to throw up flowering stems, and become hard before sufficient
growth has been formed. For late flowering plants a batch of seed may
be sown beginning of May; these will be of most service if white varie-
ties are selected.
BEDDING PLANTS. 63
PLUMBAGO CAPENSIS is usually treated as a greenkouse plant. It
blooms after midsummer on the current year's growth. Our warm
Summers are very favorable to its growth out-of-doors, and it certainly
ought to be largely grown for this purpose, as there is no other plant
which can supply the color (light blue) so abundantly. Plants from
Fall struck cuttings will be large enough by planting out time to fill 4-
inch pots, and they ought to be planted out from this size for early
blooming, as younger plants are too apt to make growth instead of
flower. The best flowering plants are those which have been AVintered
over in a dormant state, the larger the better; by midsummer they are
a solid mass of bloom. There is a white flowered form which goes well
with the blue one, but this should not be confounded with P. zeylanica
—a worthless species.
RICINUS (Castor Bean)— This grows, according to variety, from 5 to
15 feet in height. R. zanzibarensis, a green-leaved form, continues
growing all Summer and does not even ripen its seeds in this locality.
R. Gibsoni has blood-red foliage. The seeds should be sown beginning
of April in small pots, as they form a large mass of roots quickly after
germinating.
SALVIA SPLENDENS, the scarlet Sage, is the most used of this exten-
sive genus for bedding purposes. Young plants are raised early in
Spring from cuttings taken from lifted and headed back plants. S.
marmorata, S. Wm. Bedman, S. alba and S. Mrs. Stevens are all well-
known kinds.
SANCHEZIA NOBILIS puts on a very rampant growth when placed
out-of-doors in rich soil. Although a bed of Cannas may look best by
themselves, a border is often wanted of some other plant; this species
will answer well for such a purpose. Good-sized cuttings root very
freely. They may be Wintered in 3-inch pots in a moderately warm
house.
SANTOLINA INCANA— Although a perfectly hardy, dwarf shrub, it is
frequently used for Summer effects in carpet bedding. It can be rooted
any time before frost, in boxes of sand kept in a cool, close frame, or
from old plants wintered in a frame. Cuttings may be secured in Spring.
SWAINSONA — Not only is this plant useful for Winter blooming, but
early struck cuttings grown in well-drained soil will flower well in Sum-
mer. Old cut back plants which have flowered during the previous
Winter will also supply an abundance of bloom when planted out.
STROBILANTHES DYERIANUS— This species, especially in a young
state, has foliage suggestive of some of the highly -colored Bertolonias.
Its treatment should be similar to that afforded the Coleus, so far as
Wintering and propagating are concerned. When planted out in the full
sun, the leaves are apt to have a washed-out appearance, especially on
old plants. A situation having partial shade is best.
TAGETES— Some of the Mexican species are useful for late blooming.
In the open border they are among the last plants in flower. The im-
64 BEDDING PLANTS.
proved kinds may be sown in a gentle hotbed and transplanted to where
they are to bloom.
VERBENAS — The varieties of these used to be kept true to name, the
plants lifted in the Fall and cuttings taken in early Spring. Seeds can
now be depended upon to furnish the finest flowering plants. They
should be sown in February and the seedlings potted as soon as large
enough. Pinching should be done early to make the plants branch and
have them in bloom by planting-out time.
V. venosa, an herbaceous species, with heads of purple flowers, Is
hardy in the Middle States. It may be raised from seed sown at the
same period as the garden varieties, or from division of the roots in the
early part of April.
TORENIA FOURNIERI is none too common yet as a half-hardy annual.
Although it will germinate outside it takes too long a time in blooming.
Owing to the color of the flowers (different shades of violet) it is desira-
ble, as bedding plants of that color are not plentiful. Sow indoors mid-
dle of March and allow the seedlings to gain a considerable headway
before potting. T. asiatica and T. Bailloni are well suited for basket or
vase work, as they are of a procumbent habit. T. Fournieri is of erect
growth.
TROP/COLUM ( Indian Cress )— With the exception of the double-flowered
forms, which are perpetuated by cuttings, those varieties commonly
grown are raised annually from seeds. The seed must not be sown too
early, because they make rajjid progress, and are apt to produce spin-
dling growth in small pots. T. majus and dwarf forms and T. Lobbi-
anum are well known and useful as climbers, or for planting in beds.
All of them are quite tender, and should be put out rather late.
VINCA ROSEA— The Madagascar Periwinkle should be sown about
the beginning of January, to have fair-sized plants by the beginning of
May. Sow the seed thinly, and when large enough prick off into boxes.
From these the seedlings may be shifted into 3-iuch pots, from which
th.y are transferred to the open ground. There are three kinds which
come true from seed, one with rose-colored flowers, one pure white, and
the third has white flowers with pink center. They are among the most
satisfactory of bedding plants.
ZINNIAS— Very gaudy flowering annuals of the Daisy family. The
tall-growing kinds have given way to the dwarf and much more showy
varieties. Sow seed about the end of March and prick off into boxes of
rather rich soil. Harden them off in a frame before planting out.
65
Vase and Basket Plants*
When vases have to be filled with only one kind of plant, hardly
anything will be found more appropriate than the Russelias. The
branches are erect in a young state, eventually becoming drooping. If
the plants are put in a light, rich soil, with abundance of water
during the growing period, they will be in bloom most of the time.
Only one-year-old plants should be used for large vases; that is,
plants in 6 or 7-inch pots, as when of that size they soon become fur-
nished with good-sized branches. The old and well-known Russelia
juncea is the best for the purpose, although R. sarmentosa and R. Lemoinei
are both good, giving a greater number of flowers, which, however, are
smaller;than those of R. juncea. Among those plants needed for the center
of vases, Pandanus Veitchii and the numerous varieties of the grassy-
leaved species of Cordyline, such as C. australis and C. indivisa, are
among the best. Last year's seedlings of the Cordy lines, if they have
been liberally treated, will be large enough by the beginning of the sea-
son for all ordinary purposes. They stand the hot sun well. Pandanus
Veitchii colors well under full sunshine, but needs more water than the
Cordylines. P. Baptlstii, of which much was expected as an outdoor
Summer plant, is rather disappointing, as its foliage is too tender for
exposed places. Other good things for vases and baskets, in the shape
of flowering and trailing plants, are the three species of Torenia, two
purple and one yellow, besides the so-called white variety, and Mau-
randya Barclayana, all of which may be got under way from seed in a
short time; Mesembryanthemum cordifolium, Germany Ivy; all the
trailing Vincas and Abutilon vexillarium are indispensable. The varie-
gated ground Ivy will stand the sun well in exposed situations; it is
dwarf growing and comes in handy for planting around the edges of
vases and baskets, where its long hanging growths can be seen to
advantage. Stock of it, kept in boxes under the cover of sash, should
be cut up during the early Spring, and small pieces with roots attached
placed in sandy soil in boxes, and either returned to the frame or
brought into a cool house, to be started into growth previous to
potting.
Saxifraga sarmentosa ("Aaron's Beard") is a very hardy species with
ornamental flowers and foliage. It thrives out-of-doors all the year
round in positions partly shaded from the sun. By the first of March
fair-sized plants may be put in 3-inch pots. It is suitable for baskets,
vases and boxes, which do not get much sun. There is a variegated
form with striking foliage.
Senecio scandens ("German Ivy") — A few plants struck from cuttings
in the Fall will give growth for a large number of cuttings after the first
of the year.
66 VASE AND BASKET PLANTS.
Othonna crassifolia ("Little Pickles")— This plant will stand full sun-
shine with very little water. It is of procumbent growth with, small
yellow flowers. Lift a few old plants before frost, and merely lay them
on the front of a sunny bench. A dozen or two nice little tufts may be
potted up from a single plant.
Lysimachia nummularia, the Money Wort, will thrive in shade or
sun. There is a pretty variety with yellowish leaves. ,
Ipomaea Tubiculata— With small star-shaped leaves, throws out quan-
tities of hanging growths. Every bit of stem with a leaf attached will
root either in Fall or Spring.
Vinca major var. elegantissima comes in very serviceable, not only for
vases and baskets, but for indoor decoration. Specimens for this pur-
pose should be in 5-inch pots, or even larger. Plants rooted early in
the Fall and kept growing will, in course of time, make very long
growths. A good place for them in this condition of growth is on the
front of a sunny bench, where the growths are allowed to hang over the
side. This plant does not show the effects of neglect as quickly as most
other things.
For Indoor Boxes for Windows or other places where there is not
much light the following plants will be found useful, as they are almost
hardy, and, with ordinary care, they will last a long time in a presenta-
ble condition: Eohdea japonica and the variegated form will stand in
the coldest places. These plants, by the way, are perfectly hardy here,
the foliage being but slightly browned during the coldest weather.
Aspidistra elatior and A. e. variegata, together with the spotted leaved
species called A. punctata, while not so hardy as the Eohdea, yet they will
stand a good deal of cold. Of course, the plants will have to be small,
in 5 or 6-inch pots. Old plants broken up for this purpose and immedi-
ately used are not to be depended upon, as the principal roots are apt to
get severed in the operation. Many of the New Zealand Cordylines,
with narrow green leaves, can be utilized for drafty places; they will
stand considerable frost without hurt if they have been grown cool.
Farfugium grande, a broad-leaved composite with yellow spots, is
another well-known plant which comes through zero weather all right.
Niphobolus lingua corymbifera, a tough leaved crested Fern, can be got
up in quantity for use by division of the stems which grow near the
surface of the soil. Lastrea prolifica, a dwarf dark green leaved species;
Lastrea opaca, Pteris serrulata, and Adiantum Capillus- Veneris are all
pretty hardy, as well as ornamental species of Ferns good for the
purpose.
67
Vines, Hardy and Tender*
ADENOCALYHNA COHOSUM— This is one of the best tender vines
where it can be given enough head room. If planted out and otherwise
treated according to its requirements, it will make growths 70 feet in
length. It is closely related to the Bignonias. Flowers are bright yel-
low, being borne in large racemes. It blooms in midwinter. Propagated
by cuttings of the ripe wood in late Summer.
AKEBIA QUINATA— Although a climbing plant, and a very hand-
some one, it is frequently grown to answer the same purpose as bush
plants of Jasminum nudiflorum. For this purpose it should be allowed
to ramble over low supports. For trellis work it is well adapted. Al-
though a common plant we seldom see it in fruit, which is probably
accounted for by the fact that the pistillate flowers come into bloom
before the staminate ones, thus preventing fertilization; besides, they
flower at a period when fertilization out-of-doors is a somewhat preca-
rious operation with vines brought from other countries. Its propaga-
tion is brought about from cuttings of the current year's growth, choos-
ing wood not too thick nor yet the weakest branches. Make the cut-
tings with two or more leaves on them, and place together in a cool
bed; root them in time to be put in a cool frame for the Winter.
AMPELOPSIS VEITCHII and A. ROYLEI differ Jrom each other
only in that the former is the smaller of the two in leaf and fruit. A.
Roylei is, perhaps, the more rapid grower of the two. They are both
ideal vines for covering walls, not only for ornamental appearance, but
what is of more importance, in warding off the rain from the walls. It
may be noticed that the foliage is imbricated; that is, the lowest leaves,
the blades of which hang almost perpendicularly, are covered for nearly
half of their length from the base by the ends of the leaves above; thus
the water drips from one to the other instead of being absorbed by the
substance against which the vine grows. Another good reason why it
should be planted much more freely is, that it keeps the sun from the
walls, making quite an appreciable difference in the temperature of the
interior of the dwelling. The fruit may be gathered about the begin-
ning of November, the seeds washed clear of the pulp, and sown in a
frame having a southern exposure. Do not sow thickly as the cotyle-
dons are large, and damping off may result before the seedhngs are
transplanted. By the middle of May the seedlings are ready for han-
dhng. They may either be put in small pots, singly, or three in a 3-inch
pot, plunged in ashes in a frame, the sash put on and shaded for a few
days until the young plants have taken with the soil. The Ampelopsis,
owing to the nature of the roots, are best transplanted out of pots. A.
Engelmanni, A. diversifolia and A. acouitifolia, all good kinds in their
68 VINES, HARDY AXD TENDER.
way, are treated similarly to the first-named kinds as regards propa-
gating.
ANTIGNON LEPTOPUS— In the Southern States this is one of the
most satisfactory vines; even in Washington it blooms for about two
months out of doors; that is, when put out as small plants. When large
specimens are planted out the period of blooming is much longer. The
flowers are bright pink, in very large clusters. It should be propagated
from cuttings taken in September; make the cuttings with a single leaf
attached, and cut below a joint. The large roots are tuberous looking,
enabling the old plants to be easily wintered over in a cool house.
ARAUJA (Schubertia) GRANDIFLORA— It is seldom that we see this
noble vine grown well in greenhouses, the plants being usually sickly
and infested with mealy bug. As a Summer vine out of doors it makes
very vigorous growth, and after midsummer it bears a profusion of
bloom. The flowers are not unlike those of Stephanotis floribunda, but
are larger and quite as sweetly scented. Cuttings make the best flower-
ing vines. These may be taken from the ripe wood before the advent of
cool weather. Seeds are freely produced in large egg-shaped fruits; they
germinate freely shortly after being sown.
ARISTOLOCHIA STURTEVANTII and A. ELEGANS are easy to grow,
and are almost certain to produce an abundant crop of tbeir
exceedingly curious flowers. A. Sturtevantii has soft growth, more so
than any other species, and roots very readily from cuttings. A.elegans
gets hard soon after developing, and is a trifle difficult to root; but seeds
are produced abundantly, and the seedlings are every bit as floriferous
as plants raised from cuttings. Both of these kinds may be planted out
in Summer to cover trellis work. An intermediate house will suit them
in Winter. A. elegans ripens seeds in the open at Washington. Further
North the seasons are too short, unless large plants are taken to start
with.
A. sipho is a native species, but far behind the tropical ones in the
beauty of its flowers. Sometimes we need a vine for covering unsightly
structures under the shade of trees; this is the best to be had, as it luxu-
riates under those conditions. It is most easily raised from seeds.
ASPARAGUS PLUnOSUS NANUS-Plants in beds requiring divid-
ing and replanting should be attended to about the middle of July,
so as to make sufficient root growth to enable the plants to send up
strong shoots. Keep dry for a short time before dividing. This will
have a tendency to render any young roots which may be on the plant
less succulent, and after planting they will push out all right again.
Solid beds, with the idea of having them in good condition for several
seasons, should be carefully prepared. The ground soil should, if reten-
tive, be thrown out to a considerable depth, drainage, such as broken
brick or stones, put in the bottom, and the soil put back with a little
manure or leaf soil mixed with it. This is merely for the sub-soil. Over
this prepared soil 8 inches or a foot deep should be placed, boxing the
sides to a height of 6 inches or so. With the crowns raised above the
VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 69
ground level of the house there is little danger of over-watering. After
planting, for a week or so allow the atmosphere to get humid, but not
enough to force the plants into undue activity. This Asparagus, which
is probably entitled to specific rank, instead of being a variety of A.
plumosus, sends out some of its stems from the horizontal root-stock
traversing a considerable distance under the surface before making their
appearance above ground. If the terminal part of an underground stem
is injured before making its appearance above ground, the dormant
buds develop eventually into small crowns, sending out both shoots
and long succulent roots. The same conditions happen sometimes after
the developed shoot is severed, but in this case infrequently, as the break
is more apt to be above ground. The kind known as A. plumosus does
not have this pecuharity, the shoots growing straight from the crowns.
A. Plumosus Nanus as a Pot Plant— In this capacity the plauts must be
in a starved state, that is, without strong shoots; but with numerous
small ones 6 inches to a foot high. When once they get into a starved
state it takes quite a while to get them out of it, and this is quickest
accomplished by sphttiug the plant up into very small pieces. This
should only be done when it is desirable to make plants for strings. The
root stocks are very close together, crowding each other and sending
out tiny growths. When grown in pots they seldom make tall cUmbing
shoots, and when they do show such a tendency, all that is necessary
to keep plants within bounds is to nip off the ends of the shoots a few
inches above the pot. In getting up a stock for pot plants plant them
out on benches, using only 3 or 4 inches of soil, planting out quite
closely together; keep pinching, splitting up and replanting or potting
as required.
A Plumosus Nanus for Short Sprays— The cutting of short growths
of this plant to supply green for Summer flowers, beyond the safe
limit, is an evil to be guarded against. The idea should be kept in
mind all the time that this Asparagus, especially after the strings are
cut and the short bushy sprays remain, needs so much live material to
keep it healthy. If the quantity of branches is out of proportion to the
roots and kept for any length of time in that condition, the roots must
suffer; the branches subsequently thrown up put on that undesirable
yellow color which is worse than no Asparagus at all. Keep old plants
pinched down until the time when it is desired to start strings, so that
the bottom part will break and supply short material, which in Sum-
mer pays best with those growing for local trade. The plants should,
if anything, be kept on the dry side, but not dry enough to suffer, and
be given an abundance of ventilation.
Raising from Seed-Seed of Asparagus plumosus nanus, or that which
is offered under the name of A. p. nanus, is not always to be depended
upon, unless the seed is procured from a reliable source or home grown,
and known to be true to name. The reason for this is that A. plumo-
sus is the kind which fruits most freely, and some not knowing the dif-
ference between the two sorts and others knowing, but also appreciat-
ing the fact that A. p. nanus is the better of the two, and that seed
going under the name of the latter is sure to command the best prices.
70 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER.
Germination is very irregular with seed sown in some soils. The best
medium I have found is rough grained sand that does not pack. Cover
to the depth of half an inch.
A. tenuissimus is of a lighter green than A. plumosus and A. p.
nanus. If cuttings of the ripe branches are put in bottom heat they will
root freely. In small pots the plants are very ornamental and useful for
associating with ferns and other plants in filling pans. This Asparagus
used to be trained on strings, but has been superseded for this purpose
by A. p. nanus.
BIQNONIA VENUSTA is one of the most reliable of our warm green-
house climbers. It should be planted out in a box built of bricks, such
box being large enough to hold several bushels of soil. The ideal way
to train is to a single main stem along the rafters of the greenhouse.
From this stem the growths on which the flowers appear are allowed
to hang downward to their full length. By judicious trimming of these
growths, and short resting periods before starting into growth, two
crops of bloom may be had each year. The flowers are reddish orange
In color, and are produced in great i)rofu8ion. Propagation is by cut-
tings of the ripe growths in March. The plant will bear full sunshine
all the year round.
BOUGAINVILLEA SPECTABILIS and B. LATERITIA which is said
to be a variety of the former, are sometimes shy in blooming; but the-
cause will be found in unsuitable root conditions. Planted in well
drained soil and fed with liquid manure while making the flowering
wood, they are equally as attractive as the better known B. glabra.
Like the Bignonias they should be trained to long single stems, and
flowered from lateral growths, pruning these severely before starting
into growth. Propagated freely from cuttings of the ripe wood.
BOUSSINQAULTIA BASELLOIDES (Madeira Vine)— In well drained
sunny situations, such as may be found at the south side of a wall, this
plant frequently stands out all the year round in Washington, D. C. It
is a favorite vine with a great many people. It is very readily increased
by tiking the little tubercles which form on the vine and sowing them
in rows in the open, without supports. The tubers, which form under-
ground, may also be taken, cut up into small pieces and treated in the
same way. After the vines are blackened by frost, dig up and store with
Dahlia roots.
BRYONIA LACINIOSA— A slender cut-leaved vine, with rather hand-
some red fruit the size of a cherry, beautifully marked with white.
Raised from seeds, which may be sown out-of-doors end of April.
CHILDSIA (Hidalgoa) WERCKLEI— A native of the mountain regions
of Costa Rica and only recently introduced, so that but little is known
of its cultural requirements. It is a vine of soft growth with compound
leaves. The flowers are not unlike those of a single Zinnia; the color is
intense scarlet. Like other greenhouse vines of this family (Compositse)
such as the Mutisias, the weak growths will not produce flowers, conse-
quently the plants should be encouraged to make robust growth, espe-
VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 71
cially during the late Winter months, to flower in April and May. When
planted out in Summer the vines make very rapid headway, but the
flower display is meagre. For the Southern States and California it
may turn out to be a very desirable vine. With us it seems to thrive
best in a rather cool house.
CISSUS DISCOLOR— No other vine approaches this species in so far
as the beauty of its foUage is concerned. The leaves are reddish on the
lower surface; on the upper surface the color is bright velvety green
mottled with silver; stem red. It is usually grown in a warm house,
where its growth is very rapid. Cuttings of the ripened wood will root
at almost any period of the year. C. antarctica is a well-known win-
dow plant, for which purpose it is admirably suited. It is not particular
as to treatment.
CLEMATIS PANICULATA is a hardy white flowering vine, blooming
during August and September. It has jumped quickly into popular
favor, being one of the best hardy vines in cultivation. Seeds ripen in No-
vember. Raising from seed is the best and easiest method of propagation.
If sown when ripe the seed will germinate early in Spring and make fair-
sized plants by the following Fall; but if kept till Spring, and sown
then, they will not germinate till the Fall; even then they have to be
carried over in boxes in frames, and are not much in advance of the seed-
lings which germinate the following Spring. From thitj it will be seen
that a year's growth is gained by Fall sowing. Like most other Clema-
tises it does best in deep, heavy loam well enriched with manure.
Grafting Large=FIowered Varieties— Clematis of the Jackmanni and
Lanuginosa types, that is, those having the large blue, purple, lavender
or white flowers, some of them, the singles, being about 8 inches across
and some double, are all worth attention, as they give an elegant dis-
play of flowers from June all through the Summer; that is, if properly
attended to in the way of soil, mulching and watering. They all dislike
limited root space and show it in poor-sized flowers and few of them.
The varieties may be propagated from the beginning of January till the
beginning of April. Lift a few roots of such species as C. ligustrifolia, C.
paniculata or C. viticella for tying on pieces of any of the sorts desired to
be increased. Whip grafting will answer best. Tie the stock and cion
together with raffia and place in a box of chopped moss, standing the
box in a propagating frame with a temperature of from 65 to 70
degrees. Afterward they are gradually given air, potted on, and hard-
ened off as they require it. Encourage them to make all the growth
possible before cool weather. They should be started early in the season
in a cool house not too much heated. With one or two flowers on they
are ready selhng plants, and all that are sold will be advertisements for
next season's supply. Another method of propagation is to take cut-
tings of the young wood about the middle of June, and root indoors.
This is the method mostly employed in this country; but grafted stock
make the strongest plants in a given space of time, owing to the
stronger root action.
The beautiful C. coccinea is a variety of our native C. Vorna. It is
72 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER.
well adapted for wire trellis work. There are other good forms, such
as Countess of York, Countess of Onslow and Duchess of Albany.
CLERODENDRON THOMSON>E— A wonderfully floriferous vine, which
can be flowered successfully in 6 and 8-inch pots. Old plants may
be allowed to get in a dormant state in Autumn reduced and repotted
in February, but as much as possible of the old wood saved, as from
this they produce flowers on short growths. Each plant will require
the support of three or four stocks. Cuttings may be struck in Spriog
and planted out during the hot months to make growth. The flower is
bright crimson, the calyx being large and pure white.
C. speciosum— In growth this resembles the above. The flowers are
scarlet, and the calyx tinged with red.
CLITORIA TERNATEA— A half-hardy annual vine, and one of the
very best, making an exceedingly pleasing display when in rich soil and
given supports about 4 feet high. The flowers are dark blue, in shape
and size resembling those of the Sweet Pea. The seed should be started
indoors early. The seedlings, no matter how carefully they are tended,
look as if they had a hard struggle for existence, but under the influence
of full sunshine they will make good plants by the middle of May, when
they may be planted out for the Summer. This vine is sometimes grown
as a creeper, but the very attractive flowers are better seen when it is
allowed to climb. It is an ideal plant for growing on iron railings.
There are pink, white, and double-flowered forms.
COBi^A SCANDENS— When grown indoors as a perennial this vine
will attain a length of 30 feet. In this country it is principally grown
as an annual for outdoor use in Summer. As the seeds germinate quickly
and need pricking off shortly, or almost immediately after germinating,
owing to their large cotyledons, it will save time to put each seed in a
2-inch pot; fill the pots and merely press the seed in edgewise. No cov-
ering is necessary if the seed be pressed in deeply so that only the upper
edge is seen when the soil is settled by watering. C. s. variegata is a
preuty form for the greenhouse. Increased by cuttings.
HEDERA HELIX (English Ivy) — The varieties of this species are numer-
ous; some have very small leaves like H. Doneraliensis, others are very
large leaved, as, for instance, H. dentata. Others again are beautifully
variegated. Nearly all of the Ivies make good pot plants, and some of
the varieties will develop more leaves and stems to a given size of pot
than any other plant in cultivation. If the cuttings are taken from
outdoor plants propagation should be done in Autumn, as then the foil- '
age is at its best, and it keeps splendidly during the Winter months on
good-sized cuttings rooted in frames. The variegated kinds should be
given the protection of a frame, especially for stock purposes; and cut-
tings of these kinds are rooted in March. They will not root so freely
from large-sized cuttings as from more moderate-sized ones. The less
sun the plants get in Winter the hardier they will be, as rapid thawing
and freezing is injurious to the foliage. Where a supply of leaves is
wanted during the Winter the vines may be planted on a position slop-
VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 73
ing to the north. In cold localities a light covering of fine branches
will be beneficial.
HOYA CARNOSA is the most popular of the genus. It has large
umbels of flesh-colored flowers. It is a popular house plant with many.
There is a beautifully variegated form. For cuttings take good sized
pieces, pot and plunge in brisk bottom heat. The young plants should,
if started early, be given a rather high temperature. In Summer they
may be plunged in the full sun out-of-doors. An intermediate bouse and \
only a moderate supply of water will suit them in Winter.
HUnULUS JAPONICUS VARIEGATUS— In the warmer parts of the
country, at least, this vine is a hardy annual, and one of the most hand-
some of those having variegated leaves. To have an early growth, the
seeds should be sown about the beginning of March and the seedlings
potted off singly when large enough. Green leaves preponderate on the
seedlings, gradually becoming better colored as the plants increase in
height.
IPOMCEA— The Japanese Morning Glories vary much in the color of
the flowers, and while some of them are undoubtedly pretty there are
numerous shades which will never become popular. A year or two ago
out of a package of seed I had 25 distinct shades of colors. None of
them approach in beauty the well-known. I.Learii or the kind known as
I. rubro-ccerulea. The first named is evidently a perennial without
tubers, and it is propagated from cuttings; the last named, from seed.
The tuberous-rooted kinds need only to be treated like Cannas or
Dahlias during the Winter. In Summer few climbers can equal them in
perpetual masses of bloom. Ipomcea paniculata is probably the best of
the lot. Other good ones are I. scabra, I. Hardingii, I. Horsfalliae and
I. insignis. The two last named are nearly] alike, but I. insignis is the
best Summer bloomer. I. Michauxi, a native of the Southern States,
makes an excellent outdoor vine if started early in the greenhouse.
Under cultivation the large flowering variety of the native I. pandurata
makes a display of bloom never seen in a wild state. As to their propa-
gation I. Horsfalliae and I. insignis are either rooted from cuttings taken
during September, or grafted on seedling stocks of I. pandurata. The
other tuberous-rooted kinds are best raised from seed, which should be
preserved in the capsules until the beginning of February and sown in
boxes of chopped sphagnum, in which they germinate much sooner
than in soil. Keep in a growing atmosphere, as the seedlings are prone
to develop tubers and go to rest shortly after the seed leaves are formed.
Ipomoea Briggsii is one of the best flowering vines of moderate growth
for the decoration of the greenhouse during the Winter months. Most
of the other Ipomoeas bloom during the Summer, but this one makes a
liberal supply of shoots during the Summer from which it blooms dur-
ing the dull months of the year. The color of the flowers is very deep
crimson. The old plants should be repotted in early Summer, using
light, rich soil and giving them pots large enough to flower in. As the
shoots develop they should be tied around stakes, and later on, if wanted
74 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER.
to cover pillars or rafters, these shoots can easily be untied and fastened
in the positions in which they are wanted to bloom.
Ipomoea grandiflora (The Moonflower)— Plants from Autumnstruck
cuttings which were shifted on after the first potting, will, by the begin-
ning of February, be throwing out a quantity of shoots which are
intended to be utiUzed for cuttings. When these shoots get a foot or
more in length nip the ends out, as by doing so the remaining part will
ripen more quickly and provide better material for single eye cuttings.
The plants from these will be large enough by planting-out time. Large
flowering plants of the common Moonflower will often ripen considerable
quantities of seed; these, when gathered, are very large and rather soft,
but when kept for some time they diminish in size and get very hard, so
much so that they refuse to germinate under ordinary conditions. Put
them into a flat of water and stand the vessel on a warm bench for a
day or two, when the seeds will soften. This condition will be indicated
by their swelling to two or three times their normal size; they should
then be sown singly in small pots, keeping the soil only slightly moist
to prevent rotting. The Moonflower is comparatively seldom seen. One
of the probable reasons is, that at the planting-out season the vines are
unattractive-looking, and as most people want plants in bloom when
they buy, the Moonflower is overlooked. Plants should bein 4-inch pots
before planting out, as those out of smaller sized pots take too long a
time to develop.
KADSURA JAPONICA— A rather-attractive looking vine allied to the
Magnolias, with small yellowish white pendant flowers. It is propa-
gated from the ripe wood in August.
LAPAQERIA ROSEA and L. ALBA— Our hot Summers are not favora-
ble for the growth of this plant under ordinary circumstances. Where a
cool shaded spot can be devoted to it success may follow. To flower
well the Lapageria should be planted out. Propagation is best effected
by layering the stems. This subject is one of the choicest of cool green-
house climbers.
L/-THYRUS LATIFOLIUS ALBUS is among the finest of Summer
flowering herbaceous plants. The flowers are pure white and come in
very useful for making up designs. It is a comparatively scarce plant and
the seeds offered by dealers are not always to be depended upon, as the
pollen from the pink flowered one, usually to be found in gardens, seems
to act quicker on the stigmas of the white variety than its own pollen.
In seeding theyshould be kept apart so that there will be no danger
of their mixing. Sow the seeds indoors, in boxes or flats, and keep in
growth all Winter. In a temperate house the plants will only be in 3-
inch pots by planting-out time in the Spring. To support the vines run
some stout branches in the ground around the plants, bend and tie
together at the top.
Sweet Peas are sown at different seasons in different localities, to be
in bloom at or about the same time. In the vicinity of Washington the
crop put in the ground during the latter half of September is usually 3
or 4 inches high by the beginning of December. The crop put in from
VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 75
four to six weeks later is usually in bloom about the same time as the
plants raised lirom seeds sown during the end of February or beginning
of March; but the early sown crop is in bloom from two to three weeks
ahead of the others. Aside from early flowering nothing is gained, for
it cannot be said that the plants are stronger or better able to with-
stand warm and dry weather. In this vicinity it is impossible for the
plants to continue in health during the very warm weather. In more
Northern latitudes the season is much longer. To have the plants in a
flowering state for as long a time as possible they should be mulched
and watered, choosing the most airy stretch of ground for their
cultivation. Plants for blooming indoors should be sown just as soon
as the weather gets a little cool. They may either be sown in their per-
manent positions, or in pots, and planted out where they are to bloom.
There is a very large number of varieties grown for the retail seed trade;
but six varieties at the very most are quite enough for the production of
cut blooms.
Supports for Sweet Peas— Sweet Pea vines should never be allowed
to tumble to one side from their own weight through lack of a suitable
support. The most natural supports are branches of trees, about 4 or
5 feet long, stuck in on each side of the row. The plants are provided
with tendrils which cling to the small twigs of the branches. A quicker
method, the results of which are not quite so satisfactory, is to have
strong sticks driven in at intervals of a few feet along the rows, with
twine or wire fastened to them. Wire netting of a pretty wide mesh,
when properly adjusted, makes the best support. It is the most expen-
sive at first, but in the long run the cheapest, as it can be taken care of
to last for years. Perhaps the best method of using the wire netting is
to stretch it fastened to iron supports between two rows of peas, thinly
sown, each row about 12 or 18 inches apart.
LONICERA SEMPERVIRENS (Woodbine) is a most beautiful native
species; the flowers are dark red and yellow. There are several varieties;
one has pale yellow flowers. L. caprifolium, flowers yellowish, large. L.
Periclymenum is the common English Honeysuckle. It is a very strong
growing vine and exceedingly fragrant. L. japonica produces flowers
dull red and white; very fragrant; a most profuse bloomer. L. Hal-
leana, the flowers of this species open pure white, changing to a dull
yellow; when the plants get suflicient moisture they continue blooming
all Summer. L. brachypoda aureo-reticulata is a weak grower if not
planted in good soil. It is grown for its beautifully marked foliage,
which is netted with yellow. L. Heckrotii, a species with glaucous foli-
age and very handsome reddish pink flowers, blooms continuously from
near midsummer. All the kinds root freely from ripe wood after mid-
summer.
HANETTIA CORDIFOLIA— One of the handsomest of the low-growing
flowering vines, growing about 4 feet in a season, and covered from
midsummer on with bright red tubular flowers. It is almost hardy in
the District of Columbia, surviving ordinary Winters with the protection
of some litter thrown over the crowns. Green cuttings are not very
easily rooted, nor does the plant give an abundance of material for this
76 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER,
purpose. But by root cuttings a one-year-old specimen may be made
the parent of a liundred or more plants. To give large and healtby
roots for this purpose, the plants should be planted out early. By the
middle of October the tops are cut off, the roots lifted and put in boxes
of sand for a few weeks. In preparing for the root cuttings take a box,
in the bottom of which put some rough screenings, then 2 inches of fine
soil made very firm; put the pieces of roots (about three-quarters of an
inch in length,) on the surface, then cover with three-quarters of an inch
of coarse grained sand and put in a warm house. When the growths
have made two pairs of leaves put each growth in a 2-inch pot, shifting
into 3-inch pots as they require it.
M. bicolor is apt to run too much to weedy growth during Summer,
especially in the warmer parts of the country. Cuttings of the green
wood root quickly. Those propagated early in September make nice
flowering plants in 4r-iuch pots for Winter blooming in the cool conser-
vatory.
P-^DERIA FCETIDA— Usually grown as a stove and greenhouse
climber, but it is hardier than is generally supposed. We have old plants
which have stood out in the open border for over ten years. It is rather
an attractive-looking, but not a free-blooming vine. The leaves, or any
part of the plant, when bruised, emit a most offensive odor. Cuttings
should be put in any time after the growths are matured.
PASSIFLORA INCARNATA is said to be hardy around Philadelphia.
It is one of the most rapid growing species; has large whitish flowers
and bears seeds abundantly.
P. ccerulea is apt to get killed to the ground in Winter north of
Washington. P. Constance EHiott is a white flowered variety, seem-
ingly hardy and more floriferous than the type. P. Imperatrice Eugenie,
P. Innesii, P. Lawsoniana and P. Muuroi are good hybrids. Stock
plants will Winter if planted in a frame, the back of which is formed by
the wall of a warm house. These may be propagated from cuttings of
ripe growths any time in late Summer. P. alata and P.quadrangularis
are stove climbers with large, handsome flowers. P. aucubaefolia, a
variety of the last named, has the foliage handsomely marked with
yellowish blotches.
PETREA VOLUBILIS— A greenhouse climber of very irregular growth,
bearing in March and April long racemes of very showy purple flowers.
The calyces are only a few shades lighter in color than the corollas.
This plant should be in every greenhouse collection. It is very suitable
for training up rafters. Cuttings of the dormant wood will root in heat;
the best time to do the work is just before the plants start into growth.
PUERARIA THUNBERQIANA has for several years been distributed
throughout the country under the name of Dolichos japonicus. It is a
hardy, trifoliate-leaved vine, having inconspicuous purplish pea-shaped
flowers, which are seldom produced except on the old wood of well-
established plants. The flowers amount to but little, however; in fact,
no one would grow the vine on account of the flower display. It is the
VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 77
rapidity witli which the vine will cover space which has made it a favor-
ite with those.who have given it a trial. It is, without doubt, the most
rapid growing hardy vine in cultivation, and is useful either for cover-
ing the ground, for trellis work, and especially for hiding unsightly
structures. Propagation is brought about by cuttings. They should
De put in by the end of August, to enable the plants to make a little
headway so as to stand over Winter safely. The leaves, being large
and soft, should be laid flat on the sand without being shortened back
in any way, and allowing only about 3 inches of stem with each leaf.
Roots are produced from the under part of the stem a short distance
from where the leaf joins. It seldom happens that cuttings root in the
ordinary way, tbat is, from the cut part of the stem, so that they are
ready for potting in a few days after being put in the sand. Good
plants may be had in a short time by layering at this period, keeping
the ground moist during the operation.
SENECIO SCANDENS (Qerman Ivy)— A useful soft growing vine with
leaves the shape of the English Ivy (Hedera). Propagate a few plants
in the Autumn, and from these a great number of cuttings may be taken
off early in Spring. The plants are principally used for growing over
the sides of baskets, vases, and also for twining to supports.
SMILAX (Myrsiphyllum asparagoides)— Old beds of Smilax grown
year after year are rather unsatisfactory, the growths being either too
irregular or weak. The plan which insures a regular growth and allows
the bed in which it is grown to be used for other purposes during a por-
tion of the year, is to raise the plants annually from seed. This should
be sown during February, in a warm house. Put the seedlings in thumb
pots when large enough, shift to 3-inch pots and plant out from this
size after midsummer. The plants will be benefited by a warm atmos-
phere from the seedling stage until ready for cutting.
SOLANUM WENDLANDII— In the Southern States this should prove
a desirable garden vine. The flowers are arranged in cymes from 6 to
10 inches across (bright lilac blue) on the ends of the hanging branches.
In this latitude the seasons are too short for small plants to make much
of a floral display in the open. As a greenhouse climber, however, it
ought to have a place where sufiicient room can be devoted to it. Cut-
tings should be made from the short lateral growths, taken about the
end of September.
STIGHAPHYLLON CILIATUM (Butterfly Vine)— The flowers of this
plant are not unlike those of some species of Oncidiums, both in form
and color. It is one of our best medium-sized vines for trelhs work. For
pot culture it is of little service, and only thrives in the greenhouse when
planted out. September is the best month for propagation. On out-
door plants much of the wood is useless for this purpose, being thin and
soft. Choose the growths which were made early in the season; a heel
or a joint is not necessary. Root them in bottom heat, potting in 2-inch
pots, and afterward in 3-inch pots, in which they will pass the Winter.
TECOMA QRANDIFLORA differs from our native T. radicans in having
very much larger flowers. It makes a v^ry showy vine when in bloom
78 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER.
late in Summer. A good plan to show off this vine to advantage is to
grow it against a stout support, made of iron or wood, several feet
high, and when it gets to the top encourage it to become bushy by fre-
quent pinching. Propagation is sometimes attempted from portions of
the roots cut into small pieces, but unless certain that the plant is on its
own roots this is a dangerous practice and has resulted in much disap-
pointment, as the resulting plants may turn out to be nothing but the
native T. radicans, on which T. grandiflora is frequently grafted. After
these root cuttings make considerable growth it is quite a difficult mat-
ter to tell whether they are T. grandiflora or the native species, so
closely does the foliage of the two species resemble each other. Those
on roots of T. radicans make plants quicker than from root-cuttings, or
from cuttings of the green or dormant wood. Cuttings of the branches
are a trifle difficult to manage at any time, but the ripened growths of
young plants will give the best results, as then the wood is not nearly
BO thick and pithy as in old specimens.
THUNBERQIA— This genus includes some very desirable greenhouse
climbers, and at least one species, with several varieties, useful for vases,
baskets, and as a vine of moderate growth for the mixed border. This
is T. alata. Seeds will germinate outside, but to produce early effects
they may be sown indoors early in the season and hardened off with
other soft wooded plants. The best greenhouse species are: T. laurifo-
lia, white and blue flowered; T. fragrans, pure white, and T. mysoren-
sis, purple and yellow. The perennial species may be raised from seeds,
but plants obtained in this way are apt to have a weedy growth and
turn out to be shy in blooming. Cuttings put in about February will
furnish the finest flowering plants.
VITIS HETEROPHYLLA VARIEGATA is a vine of straggling growth,
with very handsome colored foliage. It may be planted with English or
Boston Ivies to break the monotony of a large expanse of green. The
variegated form comes true from seed; it should be treated in the same
manner as seeds of Ampelopsis. The fruit of Vitis heterophylla is re-
markable in being green, creamy white and violet blueat different stages
of growth.
WISTARIA CHINENSIS flowers before the leaves are fully expanded.
Old and floriferous plants have a gorgeous appearance when in full
bloom. It may be grown as a standard trained to a stout post sunk
in the ground, or as a vine for arbors, etc. There are several varieties
of this species: W. c. flore-pleno having double flowers, W. c. macrobo-
trys, a variety with very long and Ught-colored racemes. W. frutescens
is a native species, flowering later than the Chinese plant. Propagation
is effected in various ways. The plants, as a rule, set seed freely, but the
seedlings are apt to turn out shy bloomers. Seedlings of W. frutes-
cens may be used as stocks on which to graft W. chinensis and its
forms. The operation should be performed while the plants are dor-
mant in March or April. The long growths may also be layered in mid-
summer, allowing them to remain till well established.
79
Bulbous Plants*
ACHIHENES— The usual method of cultivation is to start the tuber-
cles from the end of February till the end of April, to give a succession
of bloom. When the plants have made 2 inches of growth they are
placed one by one in a wide shallow pan about 2 inches apart each way,
each growth being staked before plants show bloom. This method means
a great amount of labor. I prefer starting the tubercles in their last
season's flowering pans; after making a little headway divide into three
or more equal parts and put into their flowering pans without supports.
The specimens are not so symmetrical as those which are staked, but
they give a satisfactory quantity of bloom and are most useful for the
conservatory during the Summer months.
For growing in suspended baskets in the greenhouse the older kinds
are well suited. Use wire baskets, and with started plants build them
in from the bottom upwards so that the sides will be clothed with them.
The Achimenes do not need a very warm place for storage. During
their resting season clip off the stems to within an inch or two of the
pot instead of wrenching them out, as the tubercles are easily torn out
with them. Stand the receptacles on their sides in a dry part of a cold
house. No water will be required till Spring.
AMARYLLIS (Hippeastrum)— These beautiful plants are not as much
grown as their merits deserve; this is partly because the finer kinds are
somewhat expensive, especially when flowering bulbs are purchased.
With a few good sorts to start with they may be increased, and even
new varieties raised much more rapidly in America than in Europe, as
our Summers are very favorable to their rapid growth and increase by
offsets. Seeds are produced quite freely, and from this method of prop-
agation flowering plants are raised with little trouble. Most of the
very numerous hybrids now in cultivation are the progeny of A. vittata
and A. Ackermanni. There are two methods of culture— growing in
pots all the year round, and growing them during Summer planted out
in the open, lifting and potting in the Fall. I much prefer the first
method for the production of the largest sized blooms. Few flowers
are more attractive than those of the Amaryllis; they are borne in
umbels on stout scapes well above the foliage. The colors are princi-
pally crimson, blood red and white, some of the varieties being beauti-
fully striped and mottled. Their season of blooming is generally from
January to May. About the beginning of the year the pot-grown bulbs
which are dormant should be removed from the pots and repotted in
good, rich compost; at first water only to settle the soil, gradually
Increasing the supply. Some bulbs will show flowers early ; these, if
wanted in bloom quickly, will be forced along with a minimum tempera-
ture of 60 degrees. By giving too high a temperature the foliage is
80 BULBOUS PLANTS.
weakened, and It must be borne in mind thattlie plants make their prin-
cipal growth for the season after the flowers are past, so that too early
forcing is apt to endanger the health of the bulb. After blooming, the
pot plants should be kept in an open frame till the end of September,
with some loose material, such as stable litter, between the pots to pre-
vent a too rapid evaporation of moisture; feed them frequently with
liquid manure. A deeo frame heated so as to exclude frost will be found
the best place for the pot plants during the resting season. By the end
of May bulbs may be planted out-of-doors. A border sloping to the
south should be chosen. Immediately after planting give a heavy
mulching of manure, and to insure continuous growth keep them well
watered during dry spells, otherwise, when the time comes for lifting
the plants, some will be at rest, others in full vigor of growth. In the
latter case the transfer to the flower pot cannot be effected without
detriment to the bulbs; the roots are large, preventing a suitable quan-
tity of soil being given while using a pot within a reasonable size.
Raising Plants from Seeds — The seed will mature on pot-grown
plants about the end of July. Sow as soon as gathered. The seeds do
not require much covering, and ought to be kept in a warm atmosphere,
not only while germinating, but until the plants are at least a year old,
during which time they should be kept in a growing state.
Propagation by Offsets— These may be separated from the pot plants
during the operation of potting, or taken from the old bulbs when lift-
ing in the open border in Autumn. In the latter case they may be stored
for the Winter in boxes of sandy soil, and either potted off in Spring or
planted out with the larger bulb.
AMORPHOPHALLUS— Useful for sub-tropical bedding, owing to their
very handsome leaves; those of A. Rivieri, the species commonly met
with in cultivation, being between 4 and 5 feet across. The petioles
are necessarily stout and beautifully marbled with creamy white. The
leaves are very much divided. In early Spring the flowers are jjroduced
before the leaves; they have such an offensive odor that unless seeds are
wanted they should be cut off before developing. Propagation is from
offsels and seeds. The large tubers are wintered in a manner similar to
those of the fancy-leaved Caladiums.
ANEnONE— The tuberous rooted species known as A. coronaria, A.
fulgens, and A. hortensis are all natives of Southern Europe. When planted
permanently the soil should be open and well drained, and if it is apt to
bake in Spring give a top-dressing of leaf soil or stable manure thor-
oughly rotted. This will keep the surface soft and enable the growths to
break through easily. The above species are sometimes grown in pots;
they may be planted in September or October, kept in a cold frame and
flowered in Spring. A. fulgens is the most useful for this purpose. The
many varieties are sold cheaply by dealers in bulbs.
BULBOUS PLANTS— This term is generally applied indiscriminately
to plants having thickened subterranean stems, such as Crocus and
Gladiolus, including true bulbs, such as those of Lilium, Hyacinth and
Allium, A true bulb is simply a resting bud composed of leaf scales, as
BULBOUS PLANTS. 81
in Lilium, or partly formed by the bases of the leaves of the previous
season's growth, as in the Hyacinth and Onion. A Corm differs from a
bulb in having the interior part solid; examples, Crocus and Gladiolus.
A tuber is a swollen underground stem provided with latent buds, as in
the Potato. The thickened tuber-like roots of the Dahlia are simply
reservoirs of nutriment, and are known as tubercles. Terrestrial
Orchids supply numerous other examples.
CALADIUM, FANCY=LEAVED— There are several species and a great
many forms of these gaudy foliage plants. They are principally used to
fill the benches of the conservatory during the Summer months, when
most of the usual greenhouse plants are occupying their Summer quar-
ters out of doors. They are also used in bedding, and if the higher
colored forms are avoided, choosing those in which green and red pre-
dominate in the leaves, they will succeed well even in the full sun. A
goodly quantity of bone meal worked into the soil before planting will
make strong and well-colored leaves.
Starting Tubers— The first lot of tubers should be started about the
middle of February for conservatory decoration. They should first be
gone over carefully, and any that show signs of rotting at the bottoms
should have the decayed part cut or scraped off and dusted with pow-
dered charcoal. The under part of a Caladium tuber, after it has
reached a certain size, is more or less in a state of decay, but sometimes,
through being kept too wet, too dry, or in a too cold place, this natural
decay is hastened by rot, which, if not checked, will kill the tuber in a
short time. The white succulent roots start from the top part or neck
of the tuber, near the base of the leaf-bud, so this part must be covered
and kept in an evenly moist state to start them into growth. 1 find the
best conditions under which to start growth to be as follows: Take a
box 3 inches deep, put half an inch of moss in the bottom; put in the
bulbs close enough together so that at least half the space will be occu-
pied, then cover with moss to the top of the box. Have the moss
chopped so that the particles will fall easily from the roots previous to
potting. This operation may best be done when the roots are from one
to two inches long. A good soil should consist largely of leaf mould. As
the tubers send out their roots shortly after putting in the moss they
should be transferred to pots before the roots get too long, else they
will be injured in the operation. Pots should not be used of a size larger
than will hold the tubers and roots comfortably, without danger of
being bruised. The subsequent shifts should have a greater quantity of
loam with rooted cow manure added. For specimen plants do not cut
up the tubers, plant them whole. At the end of the season, as a rule
they will have made quite as many easily detached tubers as if they had
been cut up in the Spring.
C. argyrites— The small-leaved kind called C. argyrites will be all the
more useful if it be not started too early, as it is most needed late in the
year. It keeps well among sawdust in paper bags. The tubers are so
small that several hundred can be put in a small bag. The tubers can
be increased at almostany time, even when the plants are in full growth,
82 BULBOUS PLANTS.
but preferably about the starting time, either before or after. They are
cut up into pieces, each one with a bud or growth to it.
Preparations for Lifting Tubers— By the beginning of October, and
earlier in some localities, fancy-leaved Caladiums will soon begin to lose
their bright colors, owing to the low temperature. Before this occurs
go over them and renew the names, using fresh labels. If they are vs^ith-
out names go over them all the same, jotting down the colors of the
leaves, and whether certain kinds should be used again and so forth.
All this is very necessary with the Caladium, as it is a coming bedding
plant. I have not yet come to the conclusion whether it is best to plant
them in the dormant state like Gladioli, or to start indoors before
planting. I used to favor the latter method, mainly because there was
something to look at as soon as planted. Some beds which 1 saw lately,
owing to the splendid growth made from dormant tubers at planting
time, spoke volumes in favor of this method. It certainly saves the
time given to the starting and potting indoors. But again, more money
can be got out of a plant, with its beautiful leaves, started in a 5-inch
pot than can be got for a mere tuber that has no more beauty to it
than a potato.
Storing the Tubers — Outdoor plants as they lose their leaves should
be dug up and laid under the bench of a house where the sun won't get
at them. Give water occasionally to both roots and foliage until the
latter gradually decays. After the leaves are cut off and the tubers are
dry, put as many as will go into a fair-sized pot, then run in dry sand
and stand the pots in the warmest part of the house, where they will be
free from drip. They should be kept in a temperature not lower than
60 degrees during the Winter. Plants in pots will soon begin to look
"seedy" unless they be kept in a warm, close house. To rest them,
withhold water gradually, and when the leaves are nearly gone, remove
the pots to the driest and warmest part of the house, placing the pots
on their sides. If room cannot be spared the plants may be knocked out
of the pots and stored like the outdoor collection.
**ropagation — Many of the kinds form small tubers on the sides of the
large ones; these are easily detached and grown on. Again, many sorts,
especially some of the finer and recently introduced varieties, do not
make these small tubers, or not in large enough numbers to be of much
service; but it will usually be found that the large tubers have one or
more eyes generally at the sides. These, if taken off with a piece of the
tuber attached, either before or after starting, will make small plants
the same season. In separating from the parent tuber dust the cut sur-
faces with powdered charcoal, to prevent decay. If taken off before the
tubers are started, put the pieces in warm sand to hasten the formation
of roots.
Caladium odoratum or Colocasia odorata is used much in the same
manner for outdoor decoration in Summer as the well-known Colocasia
esculenta. They are known from each other by C. odorata having thick
fleshy stems above ground and the leaves pointing upw^ard, or at
least growing with the leaf blade horizontal, while C. esculenta has
drooping leaf blades, and has no stem above ground. They are both
BULBOUS PLANTS. 83
wintered in the same way, that is, in a dormant condition, in a warm
place, although C. odorata can easily be kept over Winter with the roots
of the previous Summer preserved and the foliage green by storing the
stems thickly together in boxes, keeping on the youngest leaves when
lifted and storing plants in a fairly warm house, giving water occasion-
ally. Well furnished plants can be had quicker from the stems of this
than from those of C. esculenta. The propagation of C. odorata should
be attended to during February. Cut up the long stems into pieces with
a dormant eye to each piece, dust them over with powdered charcoal to
prevent decay, and lay them in the sun to dry for a day or so; after-
ward put in moss, not too wet, in a warm frame, where they will sprout
much in the same manner as stove Alocasias. Pot as soon as the roots
are sufficient in number.
CONVALLARIA HAJALIS— Lily of the Valley pips used in this country
for forcing purposes are obtained from abroad. There is, however, no
reason why they should not be produced as good in the United States.
Lily of the Valley thrives in some parts very luxuriantly, when grown in
the shade of small trees with an annual top-dressing of decayed leaves or
old manure. The pips are received during the early part of November,
and the florist who can raise bloom successfully from these before Christ-
mas does not need to be told anything of the plant's culture. At that
time, however, good roots are obtainable from the previous year's sup-
ply, kept in cold storage. Or home-grown material may, in time, be
used, as then preparation could be made earlier with greater certainty
of success in early blooming. Lily of the Valley is a decidedly artificial-
looking flower when unaccompanied by its foliage. A stock of small
pips should be put in the forcing house and given plenty time to develop
the foliage for occasions when wanted. The material in which to place
the pips may be pure sand, as no new roots are made during the forcing
period. When taken from a temperature near the freezing point, increase
it very gradually until a bottom heat of from 80 to 85 degrees is given
for the actual work of forcing. The pips may be kept almost in the
dark at first, gradually giving light as they develop; but keep them
shaded from the sun. In storing pips for the Winter keep them in a
frame, with a northern exposure, so that rapid thawing and freezing
may be obviated. There are double flowered and variegated-leaved
forms; all of them are desirable for half-shaded places in the open border.
CRINUM— The tender species are not much grown indoors, but there
are several which are useful for the hardy border. One which gives
much satisfaction in Washington, and which is perfectly hardy, is named
C. longifolium. The flowers are tinged with rose. There is a white-
flowered form. Nearly every flower will set seeds which are very large
and irregular in shape. They should be sown as soon as ripe, as after
falling to the ground a little moisture will cause them to germinate in a
few days. Sow the seeds 2 inches apart in a seed pan; keep in a frame,
and plant out without potting off in Spring.
C. Powellii is a hybrid between C. longifolium and C. Moorei. It
thrives in Washington with slight protection in Winter. C. Moorei is
also hardy when planted in warm soils and slightly protected. In large
84 B ULBOUS PLANTS.
conservatories C. giganteum should be grown if only for the foliage.
The leaves are several feet in length, fully 6 inches broad in adult speci-
mens, and of a bright green color. The flowers are pure white and
sweet smelling, produced at irregular intervals.
EUCHARIS AMAZONICA— The Amazon Lilies have long been popular
stove bulbous plants, their large, pure whiteflowers making them favor-
ites wherever grown. To the florist who does a general trade this is a
paying plant when properly grown in moderately large quantities.
Their culture seems a trifle difficult to many, but this idea has arisen
through trying to grow them under adverse conditions. They are plants
which delight in a warm, moist atmosphere, shaded from strong sun-
shine. The temperature should never fall below 60 degrees, and it
should only be allowed to get in the neighborhood of that figure during
cold weather. The plants cannot be properly grown after the manner
of most bulbous subjects which florists handle, such as Liliums, Richar-
dias. Gladioli, Tulips, etc.; that is, potting them up at a certain time
to have them in bloom at a given date. Their culture has not been
brought down to such a fine point because their nature does not permit
of it. They can be grown either with or without a short period of rest
in the Fall months. I prefer to keep them growing all the time; but to
do this successfully the roots must have close attention. From the
nature of thecompost in which they grow it will become sodden if extra
precautions are not taken in the way of providing good drainage, also
in mixing with the soil a goodly quantity of broken charcoal to keep
the mass porous. The principal ingredients should consist of loam two
parts, leaf mould one, a fourth to consist of rough sand and well-rotted
cow manure. There are three kinds in general cultivation— E. grandi-
flora, E. Candida and E. Sanderiana. The first is the best known of the
three, and the most profitable to grow, as the individual flowers are
larger and more of them are produced on a stalk. They are grown in
pots, tubs, or on benches. 1 prefer the first two methods, as the plants
can be more easily handled than when on benches. A good-sized clump
can be kept in a 10 or 12-inch pot for a good many years by periodical
examinations of the drainage, the decomposed soil removed from
around the ball with the aid of the hose, and a mixture of loam and
bone meal dusted over it. Put back in the pot and give a good top-
dressing. Clumps treated in this way have flowered with me three and
four times in a year regularly for 12 years.
FORCING BULBS, such as Tulips, Hyacinths (Roman) and Narcissus,
are put in shallow boxes for forcing. The bulbs are inserted quite close
together, if of the poorer grades; but if they are the largest sizes a little
more room should be allowed for the development of the flowers. The
soil used is generally old material from benches in which Roses or Car-
nations have been growing. In preparing bulbs for forcing the princi-
pal point to be borne in mind is that they must make roots before being
put in heat. A place should be set apart for the boxes, where they may
be covered with about 8 inches of sifted ashes. On the approach of
freezing weather the ashes may be kept in a condition so that the boxes
may be removed when wanted, by covering with rough stable litter; or,
BULBOUS PLANTS. 85
when grown in large quantities, a bulb house should be provided. In
this structure light should be excluded and the roof thick enough to
keep out frost. In a well-regulated house the bulbs remain in fine con-
dition. They may be kept almost dormant for several weeks and be
forced into bloom in less time than those from the open ground. Paper
White Narcissus and Roman Hyacinths may easily be had in bloom in
November, and Due Van Thol Tulips by Christmas; but to insure these
results early rooting must be looked after.
ROHAN HYACINTHS IN PANS— Roman Hyacinths are usually grown
in boxes, and when about to flower, or even when in bloom, they are
taken out of the box and placed in shallow pans or pots, new soil added
and perhaps covered with fern moss before being exposed for sale. This
method does not turn out satisfactorily to the buyer, the flowers lasting
but for a short period. By employing the shallow flats in common use
for Ferns, Roman Hyacinths may be grown to even greater perfection in
spdaguum moss than where soil is used. A little well-rotted manure
among the moss does good. Fill up to near the brim with moss, place
the bulbs on this as thick as they will go, if the receptacle is small; give
more room, if large; fill in intervening spaces with moss, saturate the
moss, and to make roots, keep in a dark, cool place. As soon as a suffi-
cient quantity of roots are made bulbs are forced into flower in a few
days and come in very handily about Christmas, when other flowering
plants are scarce. While making roots they should occupy a cool frame,
and be covered with damp leaves.
Outdoor Bulbs— Hyacinth and Tulip bulbs flowered out-of-doors
may be made to last more than one season if the bulbs are given a little
care. By the end of May, when the bulbs have to be lifted to make room
for Summer plants, the foliage will indicate maturity by turning yellow.
Aftpr lifting the bulbs should not be allowed to lie around with the old
leaves rotting over them, sometimes wet, at other times dry, according
to the weather. Spread them out on boards in an airy shed, so that
they may have a chance to get plump and dry; after which they should
be cleaned, stored, and when the time arrives replanted for outdoor
ornamentation. Low-growing hardy Spring bulbs, such as Galanthus
(Snowdrop), Crocus, |Scilla praecox, Tecophilaea cyaneo-crocea, Triteleia
uniflora, Puschkinia and Chionodoxa, should be planted as soon as they
are procured from the dealers. If put in late they bloom late and their
foliage does not get time to ripen before the advent of real warm
weather, and the bulb for the following season is next to useless. None
of the latter is much used by florists for pot culture. In planting out
they should, if possible, be given permanent positions. Sometimes Fall
and Winter weather is favorable to premature growth of the tops, and
because of this they should be protected from rapid thawing and freez-
ing by a covering of an inch or two of half-decayed leaves or manure
put on after freezing weather arrives.
FREESIAS which are wanted to bloom by the end of the year should
be potted or boxed as soon as they can be procured from the dealers.
Plunge the pots in ashes, in a frame, where strong sunshine won't keep
the surface of the soil too warm and dry. They must not be covered
86 BULBOUS PLANTS.
over as other bulbs are after potting, as the leaves are thin and tender
and must develop to a considerable extent before the flower stems make
their appearance.
GLADIOLUS— Bulbs of these used to be imported; they are now-
grown in great quantities in this country. Most of the kinds grown are
of hybrid origin, and not a few of them have originated in America.
With florists the plants are cultivated for the sake of the flowers. The first
crop is usually grown indoors by planting the bulbs during January or
February. They are usually planted among Carnations, the long nar-
row leaves of the Gladiolus giving but little shade. For outdoor crops
they may be planted in batches from April onward. To have the
bulbs in good condition for use the following year the ground should be
well mulched as soon as the growths are well above ground. Cultivat-
ing is then not necessary and the weeds likely to smother the plants
may be removed by hand.
QLORIOSA SUPERBA and Q. PLANTII are ornamental flowered lilia-
ceous plants, very suitable for our hot Summers. The plants have a
vine-like growth and must be supported by sticks. They are servicea-
ble for the embellishment of greenhouses during Summer. In the District
of Columbia they do well out-of- doors. To raise bulbs sow a few seeds
in a 6-inch pot and allow them to remain in their seed pots for the Sum-
mer, gradually drying off as the foliage turns yellow. Store with Glox-
inias during the Winter. Each plant may be potted off singly the fol-
lowing Spring.
HiCMANTHUS — A genus principally of South African bulbous plants;
they are all of easy culture. Those which annually lose their foliage
produce their beautiful flowers before the new leaves make their appear-
ance. To develop the foliage the plants may be treated much in the
same way as Amaryllis; that is, planted out in a sunny border, mulched
with half-rotted manure and given water during dry weather. They
are good plants, but only useful for general collections.
:!^IS— Some of the tuberous rooted species are very early in bloom-
ing, and only need a short term in the greenhouse to bring them into
flower after the end of January. I. fllifolia and I. Histrio are two of the
best. The tubers should be procured as early as possible, and put in
shallow boxes to root. The surfaces should be covered while in the
frame with a thin layer of sphagnum moss. I. reticulata, a species
which blooms in the open border, very often before the snow is gone, is
valuable for forcing in 5-inch pots. The flowers are dwarf and not very
large; the foliage is of a grassy nature. From four to six tubers should
be put in each pot. The flowers of this species, which are deep purple,
have a fragrance much resembling that of the common Violet. There
is a lighter colored form called I. r. Krelagei; this, however, has no
fragrance.
LACHENALIAS— By the 1st of August Lachenalia bulbs should be
knocked out of the pots, the sizes sorted and the largest put, say four
together, in a 5-inch pot, and plunged for the time being among ashes in
a frame. The smaller bulbs should be potted or boxed for growing on.
BULBOUS PLANTS. 87
These bulbs are not common and should be more grown, not for cut-
ting, as the flowers are not suitable for this purpose, but for pot plants.
The leaves, even by themselves, are very attractive, being broad, rich
green, and spotted with brown. The flowers are greenish red and yel-
low, arranged in spikes. Small bulbs should always be saved and
grown on, as they increase in size quickly under cultivation.
LILIUM — Many species and varieties of Liliums are grown for the
ornamentation of the border in Summer and Autumn. As a rule, they
prefer light and well-manured soil, and a position partially shaded from
the sun. To lessen the necessity of frequent watering the plants should
be well mulched after the growths are a few inches high. The species
used so much for forcing in pots is known as L. longiflorum, a native of
China and Japan. There are at least two kinds; the best known
and quickest in blooming being L. Harrisii, said to have come originally
from Japan, but largely grown in Bermuda, whence the bulbs are
obtained. The bulbs should be potted as soon as procurable, and
plunged in a frame with a bottom of sifted cinders; the plunging mate-
rial should be cocoanut fiber, leaf soil, or thoroughly-rotted hotbed
material. This precaution works well in maintaining an equal state of
moisture in the pots without the necessity of frequent waterings. To
prevent the sun drying the surface of the soil enough covering of loose
stable litter should be given. Remove the plants indoors on the
approach of severe weather. For earlj* forcing the pots may be placed
directly on the bench of a cool greenhouse, and precautions taken to
keep the soil in an equably moist state, avoiding either extreme. These
bulbs should also be covered with some light material to prevent bak-
ing. The pots used should be small enough, so as to provide for a shift
into 6 and 7-inch sizes as the plants require it. Much better results are
thus obtained, because roots are formed on the stem of the Lily above
the bulb, and often above the soil, when they are planted directly into
their flowering pots, and especially when they are planted with the tops
of the bulbs level with the surface of the soil. So it will be seen that a
shift given after the plants have made considerable headway will work
advantageously in supplying new rooting material, not only for the
roots already formed in the soil, but for those forming on the stem
above it. In potting put one large piece of broken pot, concave side
down, over the hole in the bottom, and over this some half-decayed
leaves, not moss, as the latter retains too much moisture at the bottom
of the pot; ram the soil moderately firm. The soil should have good,
fibry loam, enriched to about one-fifth of its bulk with well-rotted stable
manure; this, with the addition of some broken-up charcoal, is as much
for the purpose of keeping the soil open as for feeding. The Aphis is one
of the worst enemies of the Lily when grown Indoors, and the condi-
tions favorable to its increase should be guarded against— keeping the
plants in perfect health is the best preventive measure. Some of the
things to be obviated are sudden changes in temperature, chilly
drafts, soil too wet or too dry. Fumigating or vaporizing with
tobacco must frequently be resorted to whenever the Aphis makes its
appearance.
88 BULBOUS PLANTS.
Preparing Bulbs for Potting— If, as is frequently the case, the bulbs on
arrival are a trifle shrivelled, do not pot them immediately, as they are
apt to get a set-back by so doing. The treatment they get should be
directed to restore the bulb as soon as possible to that condition in
w^hich it was when taken from the soil. This can be done in the follow-
ing manner much more quickly and with better results than when potted
immediately into soil. A cool, moist propagating house is an ideal
place for the operation. Place the bulbs as close together as they will
go in the moderately wet sand. They may be either covered with sand
for a day or two, without wetting, or covered with papers during the
driest and hottest part of the day, until they get plump and fresh-look-
ing, taking care that they be potted just before the roots break through,
for if potting be done after the roots make their appearance more harm
than good will result. Soil should be used which contains enough mois-
ture, so that on first watering it will not be necessary to give a very
large dose. The pots used should be large enough to accommodate the
bulb and no more. A later shifting should be given as the plants require
it. A mass of roots will be developed just above the pot when consider-
able growth has been made; these when covered with soil in the second
potting will be found to be valuable feeding roots.
L. Speciosum — At the season when Roses and Carnations are
scarce, both in and out of the greenhouse, a grand substitute may be
found in the Japanese lily, Lilium speciosum. It is one of the best, if
not the very best, so far as graceful structure of flower is concerned,
being far ahead of the popular variety of L.. longiflorum in this respect.
L. speciosum was introduced from Japan over GO years ago; it was
then erroneously called Lilium lancifolium, a name which still sticks to
it in many places. It may be stated for guidance in the cultivation of
this Lily that it is perfectly hardy here in well-drained light soil, that
is, on raised rock-work; but unless the bulbs are lifted at intervals of
two years and immediately replanted in freshly worked soil, with
manure added, they get smaller and smaller, ultimately dying from
starvation. For pot cultivation and to bloom early in Summer Lilium
speciosum it is one of the easiest to manage, but less trouble will
be experienced by planting out in raised beds, giving the necessary
protection from severe and late frosts in localities where those con-
ditions exist. The species is extremely variable in form and color of
flower, color of stems, fohage, buds, and even in the anthers. Among
the whites, L. s. Kraetzeri, imported direct from Japan, is one of the
finest. This variety has greenish stripes down each of the six divisions
of the flower; the anthers are brown. L. s. album-novum has larger
flowers, with bright yellow anthers. L. s. album, grown in Europe,
gradually becomes tinged with pink. L. s. punctatum has white flowers
dotted with pink. The principal pink or carmine forms are L. roseum
rubrum; others are Lihums Schrymakersi, cruentum, purpureum, pur-
puratum, magniflcum and superbum. The natural period for blooming
outside, according to locality, is from the end of July till September. A
variety called L. Melpomene, which sometimes gets to be 6 feet high,
was raised by the late Mr. Hovey, of Boston, many years ago. It was
BULBOUS PLANTS. 89
said to be a hybrid between Liliums speeiosum and auratum; it has
larger flowers than any of the varieties of L. speeiosum, but, with us, it
is very unreliable when left outside, going off suddenly without any
apparent cause, while both Liliums speeiosum and auratum alongside
do well. L. longiflorum is perfectly hardy, and with L. candidum
should be grown for Summer flowers. L. auratum is often unsatisfac-
tory, failing to start well from imported bulbs. It is of little service as
a cut flower, but probably the finest species of the genus for the open
border. As many as 50 large flowers are frequently produced in a
season from a single bulb.
NARCISSUS POETICUS is the most useful of the late blooming species
for outdoor cutting. It should be given a permanent place in the open
ground, as it usually does not deteriorate, but in suitable soil rather the
reverse. The bulbs are procurable in large quantites at low rates, and
it ought to be taken into consideration that they flower yearly in the
open field and increase to such an extent under fairly good treatment,
that the bulbs which fill a given space this year will in four years fill six
times the space. N. p, recurvus is the best of the single forms, but other
kinds are sometimes sold for it. The double form is a large and hand-
some flower, of which we see too little. They should be lifted every
second or third year, as soon as the bulbs are ripe (where cultivated on
a large scale they are lifted every season,) the sizes sorted and immedi-
ately replanted, the ground having been well enriched with manure.
Their usual period of flowering here is from May 10th to the 20th. In
well-sheltered, sunny positions they flower much earlier. In order to
utihze space, if the rows are wide enough, stock plants of various things
can be planted between them.
OXALIS— The main batch of Oxalis for Winter flowering should be
potted up by the middle of October. Put a single bulb in each pot,
using 3-inch pots to start with, and shifting on the plants as they need
it until they are in 5 or G-inch pots, in which they bloom. When several
bulbs are potted together in a large pot, at first they are certain to pro-
duce foliage in abundance and but few flowers. By the middle of June
the bulbs will be dried off; this is accomplished by withholding water and
turning the pots on their sides. Be careful to place them so that the soil
is exposed to view, as mice are exceedingly fond of the bulbs. All of the
kinds grown for their flowers in Winter are very prolific in the produc-
tion of new bulbs, that is, if sufl3cient root room has been afforded for
their perfect development during the growing period. Home-grown
bulbs are very superior to those imported. Some of the best kinds are
O.cernua, yellow; O. Bowiei, O. gigantea and O. hirta-rosacea, pink;
O. versicolor and O. lactiflora, white. O. rubricaulis is desirable not so
much for the flowers as for the highly colored red stems. O. Bowiei and
O. versicolor are well suited for baskets, for hanging in conservatories.
The last named requires very little heat.
POLIANTHES TUBEROSA (Tuberose)— These are grown largely for
supplying white flowers during Summer and Fall months. They may
90 BULBOUS PLANTS.
be put in the ground after danger from frost is past, and at later inter-
vals to give a succession of flowers. The finest bulbs are supplied so
cheaply by American growers, that it does not pay to propagate in
small quantities.
RICHARDIA >ETHIOPICA (Calla) which are out of service should
have the water gradually withheld from them, and as the foliage dies
down turn the pots on their sides and leave them in this position until
the time arrives for starting into growth in Autumn. The pots should
not be put in a place where the sun will have full play on them. Jadoo
potted tubers may as well have another season without disturbance,
as this material does not seem to decompose rapidly; liquid manure
would then, of course, have to be applied regularly. For increasing the
stock of the yellow varieties they should be grown all Summer; plant
them outside in rich, well-drained situations where they can be watered
abundantly when occasion requires it. In Winter they need a mini-
mum temperature of 60 degrees. By the middle of September the
largest sizes of R. ajthiopica should be in 6 and 7-inch pots and placed
in an open frame. Have the sash handy so that they may be protec-
ted during wet weather. With a good watering at first they won't
need much moisture till good roots are formed. At least one-third of
rotted cow manure should be in the soil.
TRILLIUM— About a dozen species of these beautiful and interesting
native plants are in cultivation. T. grandiflorum is the one most com-
monly grown, owing to its very large white flowers. Its culture is of
the simplest description, requiring a half-shaded position with abun-
dance of vegetable humus in the soil. It is sometimes grown in pots for
early forcing, for which purpose it is well adapted. The rhizomes should
be potted as soon as the plants are at rest, late in Summer, and plunged
in a cool frame until wanted. With very little heat they will flower
several weeks in advance of their usual time.
VALLOTA PURPUREA— A very useful plant, either for the greenhouse
or the window garden, but not of much service to the florist, as it
flowers at a period when the demand for cut flowers is not very great.
As the bulbs will last in the same pots for several years, the drainage
should be carefully arranged, and the soil mixed with crushed bone.
During growth occasional waterings with manure should be given.
The flowers are reddish scarlet, several in an umbel; in appearance some-
what like those of an Amaryllis. The foliage is evergreen, but during
the resting season the supply of water should be curtailed.
Propagation — The Vallota has a very curious method of making
young plants which I do not remember to have seen described any-
where. These young plants are produced to such an extent that the
process tends to curtail the flowering propensities of the larger bulbs if
attention be not given in the matter of removing them. In course of
time they form two colonies, one on each side of the parent bulb. The
bases of the leaves forming the bulb ha\e each a small bud-like growth
BULBOUS PLANTS. 91
a considerable distance from the base or disc, but attached to the disc
by a root-like formation which continues active, after the swollen base
of the leaf is dead, in supplying nutriment to the young bulb until it
sends out roots. When this little root-like process is of no further use it
gradually shrivels up. Afterward the young bulbs grow apace and rob
the soil of the nourishment intended for the parent bulb. This provision
evidently shows that the Vallota naturally grows deep in the soil and
is intended to raise the bulblets near to the surface before taking root.
These bulblets, unless intended for increasing the stock, should be
removed as soon as they make their appearance above the soil.
92
Ornamental Grasses*
ANDROPOaON SCH/ENANTHUS (Lemon Grass)— The leaves of this
plant when bruised emit a fragrance much resembling that of the Lemon
Verbena. It is a tender evergreen. When planted out in Summer the
growth is very rapid even in dry soils. As a pot plant it has a very
ornamental appearance, and stands well in a dwelling house. It is prop-
agated by division at any time of the year. The pieces should be
placed in wet sand for a few days previous to potting to encourage new
roots to form.
ARUNDO DONAX— The tallest of our herbaceous grasses, growing
under favorable conditions to a height of 25 feet; flowers late in Sum-
mer. A very ornamental plant for the centers of large beds, or for iso-
lated groups on wide borders or lawns. As it increases very rapidly at
the root the rhizome-like growth may be divided just as the new shoots
make their appearance above the soil; these, when heeled in, may be
transplanted at any time.
A. D. variegata grows only about half the height of the green one—
an exceedingly desirable plant for the hardy border. To propagate,
take the ripe stems and lay them in damp moss or sand; from each
joint one or more buds will start into growth and ultimately take root.
These young plants, when of sufficient size, may be detached from the
parent stem and put in small pots.
BAMBUSA (Bamboo)— There are one or two species grown in green-
houses and several hardy ones. B. arundinacea will grow 60 feet high
in a smgle season. It is useful for roomy structures where quick effects
are wanted. B. aurea is perfectly hardy in Washington, D. C. The
growths will reach a height of 15 feet. B. striata is grown Indoors in
Winter. The plants will thrive a long time with limited root accommo-
dation. B. virminalis, B. chrysantha, B. punctata, B. mitis and B.
Marliacea sometimes stand the Winter in the open border without losing
their foliage. B. Fortune! variegata should never be placed where it
will crowd other plants, as it spreads rapidly and is difficult to eradi-
cate. Propagation is best effected by division. The pieces should be
started into growth among sand, in a close cool frame, potting off the
rarer kinds when a few new roots have been made.
CYPERUS ALTERNIFOLIUS is useful either as a house plant or for plant-
ing out in Summer. Its propagation is much quicker accomplished by
leaves than from seed in the following manner: Get a piece of zinc, or as
many pieces as may be wanted, of a size say, 2 feet square; turn up the
sides 3 inches; beat the sides forming the corners together and bend them
ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 93
to one side so as to hold water, fill with sand and saturate with water.
Get some mature growths, cut off the stalk and shorten the leaves; in-
sert in the sand and keep thoroughly wet. In a warm house they will
send up numerous rooted growths in a short time, which, as they require
if, should be potted and grown on. Young plants such as these can very
easily be divided. I haven't had much success with the variegated form
propagated in this way ; it is apt to come green. Division suits it better.
DACTYLIS QOLflERATA VARIEQATA— The species grows in waste
places in the Eastern States. The green-leaved plants are weedy in
growth, very floriferous and are never grown in gardens. The varie-
gated form seldom produces many flowers, and these, when they appear,
should be removed. It is one of our best low-growing variegated
grasses, much used in some places for bedding. It is readily propagated
by division.
ELVnUS QLAUCUS— A very ornamental species with bluish green
leaves finely striated on the upper surfaces. It reaches a height of
.about 2 feet. The habit is inclined to be spreading. In early Spring
the growth is about a foot high when most other ornamental grasses
are just showing. Propagated by division.
ERIANTHUS RAVENN/E— This species comes next in size to the
Arundo, frequently growing 10 feet high. The growths are stout, end-
ing with very ornamental flowers, which, if taken in a young state and
dried in the sun, are quite as showy as those of the Pampas plumes.
The plants produce seeds freely; they should be sown in Autumn and
wintered in a cool house. The plant is thoroughly hardy in the District
of Columbia.
EULALIA (Miscanthus)— The variegated forms of E. japonica are
more frequently used than any other ornamental grasses. As isolated
specimens they grow into very symmetrical subjects, the outer leaves of
the clump drooping and almost reaching the ground. There are three
kinds usually cultivated — Eulalia japonica foliis-striatus, E. j. zebrina
and E. univittata. The last named is much more dwarf than the others,
the leaves narrow with a whitish stripe down the middle. They are
natives of Japan. Propagation is effected by division of the crowns,
and should be done just as the plants are starting into growth. Old
clumps will have to be broken up with the aid of a mattock or axe.
They may be divided into pieces small enough to go in a 3-inch pot and
plunged in a frame among ashes, or they may be heeled among sand in
a frame for a couple of weeks or more before potting. They should in
any case be kept close for a few days after being divided, in order to
start fresh roots.
FESTUCA GLAUCA grows only a few inches high, the foliage is of a
bluish green color. It may be divided and replanted during March or
April.
QVNERIUn ARGENTEUM (The Pampas Grass)— During the exception-
ally severe Winter of 1898-1899 we did not lose a single plant of any
of the forms of the Pampas Grasses. None of the plants was protected
94 ORNAMENTAL GRASSES.
by the usual method of boxes or barrels with the ends knocked out,
placed over the plants and filled with leaves or straw. Propagation
from seed is the usual method, but division of the old plants will be
found more satisfactory. Dig up a large clump in the Fall; chop it up
into pieces small enough to go easily into 6-inch pots. Use stiff loam
and pot firmly, standing the plants under benches; water occasionally
until the beginning of February, when the plants should be removed
from the pots and divided up into the smallest pieces, saving the new
roots as much as possible. Shorten the leaves back to half their length
and put in the sand bed for a couple of weeks to start fresh roots; then
place in 3 or 4-inch pots, and they will form well-furnished plants in a
short time.
PANICUM VARIEQATUM— A useful little warm house plant, having
leaves striped with white and pink. It will grow in shade or sun, and
is used chiefly for hanging over the sides of baskets, vases and boxes.
Propagated from cuttings in March. The correct name is Oplism-enus
Burmanni variegatus.
PAPYRUS ANTIQUORUM— The Papyrus, after being lifted from its
Summer quarters, where the growths made are usually very strong, fre-
quently gets into a half sickly state during the Winter months, from
which it takes it some time to recuperate after being replanted outside.
In Winter the growths are grassy and spindling. By the way, I doubt
very much if the true Cyperus Papyrus is in common cultivation, the
one generally grown under that name being an entirely different species.
However, that is a small matter, as the one commonly grown under
the name of Cyperus Papyrus answers the purpose for which it is used,
quite as well, if not better, than the true species. If the old plants are
taken in hand some time in January, and split up into the smallest
pieces and put in the sand bed of a warm house, they will in a few days
push out fine, healthy roots, and when potted in a mixture of equal
parts of moss, sand and manure, will grow very vigorously and will be
in splendid trim for the planting out season. If it is desired to increase
the stock the young plants, after being in the pots for a few weeks, can
be re-divided and the operation of rooting gone through as at first. In
the absence of a propagating bench a box of sand placed on the hot
water pipes answers the same purpose.
PENNISETUM LONGISTYLUM— Perhaps the finest of our dwarf
grasses, which are grown principally on account of the very ornamental
character of the flowers. It is usually treated as a half-hardy annual,
owing to its liability to get Winter-killed. It sometimes survives the
Winters in the District of Columbia, but should always be treated as a
tender subject. Plants raised annually from seeds are satisfactory, if
sown early; but old plants, divided up will give larger pieces, start into
bloom earlier and do not take so much attention as seedlings. The old
plants are wintered anywhere out of the reach of frost. About the
beginning of February cut off the old leaves to within 6 inches of the
crowns; divide into small pieces, trim the roots so that they will ulti-
mately go into 3 or 4-inch pots; place the pieces thickly together in
ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 95
boxes of sandy soil and keep in greenhouse. Pot as soon as tlie new
roots have started. They may be removed to a cool frame long before
the soft bedding material demands all the indoor space. There are
several other annual and perennial species grown; none, however, is as
desirable as the above.
SACCHARUM OFFICINARUM VIOLACEUM— A variety of the sugar
cane with violet or plum colored leaves and stems; useful for sub-tropi-
cal bedding. It is easily increased by cutting the stems into pieces, with
two joints to each piece, and placing them on the sand bed of a warm
house at almost any time. Numerous shoots are produced at the joints,
and they make plants rapidly.
STIPA PENNATA (Feather Grass)— An old favorite in gardens. The
leaves are long and narrow. The flowers are arranged in long, arching
spikes, presenting a very delicate appearance. Propagated in Spring by
division, and from seed. There are over a hundred species, only a few
of which are in cultivation.
UNIOLA LATIFOLIA is a native species which makes an attractive
border plant, growing usually from 2 to 3 feet high. The leaves are
broad and arching, about an inch wide; the spikelets are drooping on
long pedicels. This grass starts early into growth and is one of the
easiest to propagate by division.
Water Plants.
LIMNOCHARIS HUMBOLDTII— Useful for planting where the water Is
only a few inches deep. The flowers are yellow, about 2 inches in diame-
ter. The plants must be wintered indoors. When grown in shallow
water during Summer it is not necessary to keep them under water dur-
ing Winter. All that is required is to prepare a box of moist loam; put
the plants in this, in rows, close together; give a good watering and
stand the box under the bench of a warm house where it will get a fair
amount of light. They will make a new set of short-stalked leaves ere
long, and remain in good condition for planting out in the Spring.
NELUriBIUn— There are at least two species, N. speciosum and N.
luteum, besides several forms of the first named, differing from it princi-
pally in the colors of the flowers. N. speciosum and its forms are the best
for growing in ponds and fountain basins. During Summer they make
very long underground stems, and, on the approach of cold weather,
form thick resting tubers at the ends of which are one or more dormant
buds. Nelumbiums need an abundance of rich soil for their perfect
development. When grown in a cramped space comparatively few
flowers are produced. The flowers are from 8 inches to a foot across —
pink, white, and yellow, in color. They are borne on long, rigid stems
well out of the water. The leaves have an exceedingly ornamental
appearance, being peltate and standing a considerable distance out of
the water. The first few leaves float on the surface, but as the shoots
gain strength they rise 2 and 3 feet above the surface.
Raising Plants from Seed— This is a very certain method of increas-
ing the supply of plants, not only for planting out the same season, but
as a convenient form in which to keep plants for sale. The seeds have a
very hard covering, and before putting them in water this covering
should be pierced either with the point of a knife or by the aid of a file.
A very small opening will suffice in causing them to germinate in a few
days. About the end of March sow fairly thick in a shallow seed pan,
sinking it about 6 inches beneath the surface in a warm tank. After the
seedlings have made the first leaf put each in a 3-inch pot. They can be
planted out of these; or, if necessary, shift into 6-inch pots; in these
they will pass the Summer and in the Fall form one or more small
tubers.
Starting Dormant Tubers— Attempts to start the dormant tubers of
Nelumbiums after removal often result in disappointment. The opera-
tion of digging them up and replanting has an effect upon them sufficient
to prevent their breaking into growth with the same certainty that
would have followed had they been left undisturbed. Especially is it a
risky performance to plant out the tubers early in the season. I find it
WATER PLANTS. 97
a very certain method to let the tubers float on the surface of an indoor
tank, or tub, on which the sun has full play; they soon begin to form
roots quite freely, and when put out by the middle of May or beginning
of June, according to locality, they continue to grow very luxuriantly,
making even greater progress than those which have succeeded in start-
ng outside.
Insect Enemies are not numerous; there is one, however, which
causes great trouble, especially in the vicinity of long-established colo-
nies of the American species, N. luteum. This insect deposits its eggs on
the leaves, and on hatching the caterpillars attack the outer edges prin-
cipally, rolling the leaves inward as they develop. Another favorite
point of attack is the stem of the leaf. Beginning at the top the cater-
pillar will eat out the interior part for several inches. In large collec-
tions it is a serious matter to attempt to combat this pest, but where
there are only a few plants hand picking will prevent them doing much
injury.
NYMPH^A— When anything like fair treatment is given most of the
species and varieties of Nymphseas grow very rapidly and flower abun-
dantly. There are only one or two kinds which are backward in this
respect, and unfortunately they are the most handsome ones of the
genus. N. gigantea, a light blue-flowered species from Australia, and
the rose colored variety of N. alba, are the principal offenders. The
former can be managed but not with the same treatment as is given the
other blue-flowered species. With N. alba rosea the trouble seeijis to be
caused by our hot Summers. However, there are numerous other species
and many hybrid forms which require much less attention than the
majority of other classes of plants to bring them to perfection. There
are in the neighborhood of 40 kinds to choose from. Of these about
half are tender; the others will stand the Winters successfully if the
crowns are low enough in the water to be out of the reach of frost. Or
if they be grown in places from which the water has to be drawn in
Winter, the plants may be covered with some protecting material. But
the question of just how much cold the various kinds will stand has not
been ascertained. I have had tubs of several kinds frozen solid for six
weeks at a time without injuring the plants in the least.
The tender kinds are divided into two well defined sections— day
blooming and night blooming. In the day blooming section we have N.
gracilis, white; N. scutifolia, N. stellata, with numerous forms ranging
from colors almost blue to deep rose; N. pulcherrima produces flowers
exactly similar to those from plants raised from seed of N. gracilis,
which have evidently been fertilized by pollen from forms of N. stellata;
N. elegans, a Mexican species, has purplish flowers; N. gigantea, a light
blue-flowered species from Australia, has the largest blooms of all,
sometimes attaining a diameter of 16 inches.
The Night=bIooming section is represented by about ten kinds, the
best known of which are: N. Lotus, N. rubra, N. devoniensis, N.dentata
and N. Sturtevantii. Most of the other sorts are cross-bred forms be-
tween N. Lotus and N. Sturtevantii. All of the tender kinds have thick
98 WATER PLANTS.
swollen root-stocks, while the hardy species, with one or two exceptions,
have thick, fleshy rhizomes.
Among the hardy sorts N. odorata is the one most commonly grown
for its flowers. A form of this is known as the Cape Cod Water Lily; N.
odorata rosea has bright rose-colored flowers; N. o. sulphurea, N.
Marliacea chromatella and N. tuberosa flavescens have yellow flowers;
N. Marliacea albida and N. alba are pure white. A new hybrid race of
which N. Laydekeri rosea is the best known, has several named kinds
with rather odd colors, but they are less desirable than some of the bet-
ter known varieties. They are, however, well suited for growing in
tubs half filled with soil, and the remaining space with water.
Soil — All of the species and varieties will thrive in loam two parts
and one part half-rotted cow manure. Another good medium is formed
by adding a 5-inch potful of bone meal to a bushel of loam.
Starting Tubers Into Growth— The tubers of the tender Nymphaeas
should be started not later than the beginning of April. Each tuber
should be put in a 5-inch pot, using pure loam. The tuber may be
covered with about an inch of soil and a further layer of half an inch
of sand, and put in a tank of water at a temperature of from 65 to 70
degrees. After a few leaves have been made the growth should be sepa-
rated from the tuber and repotted, as this prevents numerous shoots
developing when planted out and secures a strong single growth. This
applies to all of the tender sorts. The tubers may be pushed back in the
5-inch pots, where they will continue sending up fresh shoots; these, or
as many as wanted, may be potted in 4-inch pots and allowed to go to
rest in them. Tubers thus formed should be kept for stock purposes,
instead of old plants.
Summer Quarters— In this latitude it is safe to put out the tenderest
kinds after the 10th of May. Each plant, whether grown in sunken
tubs, boxes, or planted in the bottom of the pond, should have at least
three bushels of prepared soil to grow them well. One foot beneath the
surface is a safe distance; but they will thrive much deeper.
Starting Hardy Nymphaeas- By the beginning of April any of the
hardy Nymphaeas, which it is necessary to increase or replant, should
get attention before they make too much headway. In dividing up such
kinds as N. helvola and the pink varieties of N. odorata with small rhi-
zomes, such as N. odorata rosea and N. o. exquisita, or the small pieces
of N. Marliacea chromatella, it is safest to start the pieces in pots so
that they will make a few leaves before being transferred to their perma-
nent quarters. Such kinds as N. alba, N. a. candidissima, N. Marliacea
albida, N. M. rosea, N. M. carnea have very large rhizomes, and there is
little danger but that they will give a good account of themselves after
being divided and planted out.
Wintering Tender Water Lilies— From the 15th to the end of October
the tender Water Lilies should be taken indoors for the Winter. Where
there are small plants or tubers of the tender day blooming species and
varieties, such as N. zanzibarensis, its varieties as azurea and rosea,
the Australian N. gigantea, N. coerulea and N. scutifolia, let the old ones
WATER PLANTS. 99
go, as they are difiBcult to keep over the Winter, except in a large green-
house tank. Small, dormant tubers of any of the above can be started
in the Spring, and by careful manipulation they will give several plants
each, which will afford as much, if not more, satisfaction than would
the older plants. Another matter which should be kept in mind con-
cerning the above kinds is that they do not form small tubers at the
sides of the large ones made during the growing season. The reverse is
the case with such species and forms as N. dentata, N. devoniensis, N.
rubra, N. Sturtevantii, N. O'Marana, N. Columbiana, N. Deaniaua, N.
delicatissima and N. Smithiana. These are all tender night-blooming
kinds and form tubers around the sides of the parent tuber or root-
stock; they are very irregular in shape, not at all resembling the pear-
shaped tuber of a young starved plant. After the display of flower is
over for the season, cut off the leaves close to the crown, and with a
spade cut off the roots about 6 inches from the crown; lift the clump
and put beneath the stage of a warm house. The central part will decay
in a short time, and before this actually happens the tubers may be
gathered and stored for the Winter. N. gracilis and N. pulcherrima,
white and blue respectively, will keep easily, if the old root-stocks are
saved, as they do not decay so easily as the other tender day bloomers.
When it is necessary to keep old plants of the above-named day bloomers
other than N. gracilis and N. pulcherrima, lift the smallest of the plants,
save as many roots and leaves as possible, pot them and sink in a tank,
the water of which does not fall below 50 degrees F. There are several
methods of keeping the small tubers of the tender Nymphseas over Win-
ter. Those from the night bloomers should not be removed in a hurry,
as the wound made by separating is apt to be slow in healing, and the
riper the tubers when the work is done the greater the success. They
keep well in damp moss, on the floor of a warm house. If they are
starved tubers, that is, of the pear-shaped form, there is little fear of
decay setting in, for then there are no wounds to heal as in the case of
detached tubers. They may be then kept dry, but warm. Probably
the safest plan, and the one which I adopt, is to put each kind in a pot
of sand and sink in a warm tank.
Raising Hardy Kinds from Seeds — N. pygmsea seeds very freely, in
fact, every flower may be depended upon to ripen a capsule; but if there
is an overflow to the pond the seeds are very apt to get lost, as they
float on the surface after being liberated from the capsule. If gathered
before this takes place, and the pulpy material removed from around
them, they may be thrown in a part of the pond where they are likely
to germinate. N. caroliniensis, N. tuberosa, N. odorata and one or two
of its varieties set seeds freely, but as they increase so easily from rhi-
zomes there is little need of raising seedlings, Marliac's hybrids are
evidently sterile, although the pollen in those I have tested is good.
Some of these hybrids do not permit of division of the root-stocks, and
the probable reason why they cannot be propagated in this country is,
one of the parents of the hybrids being so diflicult to grow here it is
unavailable for the purpose of pollination. N. lutea and N. mexicana
seed somewhat sparingly, but both kinds have two methods of resting
during Winter, so that raising plants from seed need not be resorted to.
100 WATER PLANTS.
Victoria Regia— Of this there are two forms— V. R. Randii and V.
R. Trickeri. The Victorias are grown as annuals, the seeds being
sown about the beginning of January, and Isept in water at a
temperature of at least 80 degrees. The first leaves are grass-like,
gradually assuming the peltate form. The young plants should be
encouraged to make all the growth possible before being put out of
doors. In this latitude we plant them out about May 20, and treat
them in every respect like tender Nymphseas. Each plant should get at
least a couple of cartloads of prepared soil, to have the plants at their
best. V. Regia has leaves over 6 feet in diameter. The leaf of V. R.
Randii is much less in diameter, but more turned up at the margins;
that of V. R. Trickeri, In size, is intermediate between the two.
Labels for Water Plants— Labels for pots under the surface of the
water, if of the ordinary wooden kind, only remain in good condition
for a short time, and then the writing becomes obliterated. With the
constantly increasing number of Nymphseas and Nelumbiums, one must
be well acquainted with the names of the species and varieties to tell
them by their leaves, but when in a dormant state it is impossible to
tell some of the kinds from others. A simple method of getting around
this difficulty is to have labels made of strips of sheet copper, with
a number stamped across the top, the number to correspond with a
numbered list of the species and varieties kept in a book. The numbers
and names should also be written on a piece of board and nailed up
where it may be conveniently referred to. These labels last for years,
and may be used as often as necessary. In Water Lily ponds, whether
the plants are labeled above water or not, those intended to be removed
to their Winter quarters should have the name secured by nailing a strip
of the copper along the top of a stout wooden label, with the number
belonging to the kind punched on the copper. With copper and punches
conveniently at hand no more time will be used than in writing an
ordinary label. This method is a safe one also, where a permanent
label is desired for preserving the names of outdoor vines, shrubs and
trees.
OUVIRANDRA FENESTRALIS— The lattice leaf plant of Madagascar.
This unique subject thrives best when the leaves are near the surface of
the water. The pots should be submerged from 4 to 6 inches. The
temperature of tlie water should never be below 65 degrees, but it
should be kept at least 10 degrees higher most of the time. A wide tub
and one about 14 inches deep, will suffice for the plant's needs. The tub
should be placed in the warmest part of the stove, and shaded from the
eun at all seasons. It is not particular as to soil, growing in any ordi-
nary potting mixture. Loam, sand and a little half-rotted manure,
topped off with fine grand, produce good results. When in an evidently
dormant state the plant will, no matter at what season, begin to send
up new leaves when given a shift, or the ball reduced and fresh soil
afforded. It's greatest enemy is the confervoid growths which cling to
the leaves. To check these, keep the plant in total darkness for a few
days. Propagation is by division, and from seeds.
101
Ferns and Lycopods.
ADIANTUM (Maidenhair) is one of the most important genera of
ferns, as it contains several of our most popular decorative plants.
There are nearly a hundred known species; many of these are in cultiva-
tion, besides numerous varieties and forms. There is great diversity of
form in the fronds of different species. A. reniforme is simple and liidney
shaped. Among others A. macrophyllum and A. peruvianum have the
fronds simply pinnate. In the greater number of species the fronds are
much branched. Where large collections of ferns are grown it would be
a difficult task to select the most beautiful and interesting kinds, as this
genus above all others does not possess a simple species but what is
worthy of a place in the fernery. For decorative purposes A. cuneatum
is more extensively grown than any other species. There are several
well marked forms. A. c. gracillimum has the segments much smaller
than in those of the type. A. c. mundulum is a dwarf garden form, well
suited for using in fern dishes. A. c. variegatum has the pinnules faintly
marked with creamy white. A. hispidulum (pubescens) is a species much
used in a young state, as it can be got up in quantity very readily.
Plants in 2 and 3-inch pots raised from spores have a very different
appearance from those which have reached the adult stage. A. cauda-
tum and A. lunulatum are well suited for planting in hanging baskets.
Young plants are produced at the ends of the fronds, and when planted
out among rocks in a greenhouse they soon cover a large space. A.
Capillus- Veneris is one of the hardiest of the genus, but it has a very
wide geographical distribution. It is the most useful of all ferns for
growing on damp greenhouse walls. There are numerous varieties, A.
C.-V. imbricatum has very large pinnules; it is shy in producing spores,
but is easily increased by division of the rhizomes in the latter part of
March. A. tenerum makes beautiful specimens in 5-inch pots, but is a
little tender for decorative work. Adiantum fronds will keep a much
longer time after they are cut, if they be submerged in water for a few
hours, than if used direct from the plant. Among the tall growing
species A. trapeziforme is one of the most ornamental. It may frequently
be met with in collections, and has fronds 3 to 4 feet long. A. t.
pentadactylon is a well marked variety and should always be included
in large collections; it stands well as a decorative plant. A. t.
Sanctse Catherinse is a dwarf variety, with the segments deeply cut.
This species and its varieties are best increased by division of the
crowns before starting into growth.
Adiantum Farleyense — Success in growing this important com.
mercial fern depends to a great extent on making a proper start with
the small plants. It is labor lost in trying to make a healthy plant out
of an unhealthy one, or from one which has got a set-back from some
102 FERNS AND LYCOPODS.
cause, unless they be knocked out of the pots and split up into small
pieces — the smaller the better, provided there are a few small fronds
attached to each piece and a probability of their making new roots.
A. Farleyense does not produce spores as most kinds of ferns do. The
reason is because it is not a species, but merely an unfertile variety of a
species said to be the well known A. tenerum; consequently the only
method of propagation lies in dividing the old plants. Some growers
split the crowns and pot the growing points in thumb pots, placing
them in a frame or close shaded house. This method is not always
satisfactory, for unless the points have fairly good live roots to start
with, or show signs of immediately making fresh ones, their struggle
for existence is apt to be a pretty tough one. The first batch may be
started about the end of January or first half of February. Old plants
from which the fronds were cut earlier in the season, and which show
little colonies of small fronds, are the best for the purpose. Wash every
particle of soil from the roots, when it will be found there is a consider-
able quantity of dead but hard, wiry rhizomes just beneath the surface
of the soil. This material, if potted up with the pieces, hinders their
growth and should be removed. Select only the rhizomes which have
life in them and which have a frond, however small, or a piece of frond
attached. The work of separation should be done with the aid of a
sharp-pointed pair of scissors. Next put the pieces in a mixture of sand
and moss, the latter rubbed through a No. 8 sieve; have the materials
in equal parts. Water should be given very sparingly. To start tbe
pieces into growth under the most favorable conditions they ought to
be covered with glass until new roots and fronds push out. They may
then be potted into 2-inch pots.
Adiantums from Spores— A. cuneatum, A. pubescens and many other
species vegetate very quickly from spores. The principal points to be
observed are to have the soil free from the lower forms of plant life, such
as mosses and liverworts. Sow the spores very thinly. Keep the pans
in which they are sown shaded from the sun, and the pans covered with
glass until the first fronds appear. During the process of germination
the soil should not be watered from above, but by sinking the pans up
to the rims in a pail of water. The spores will germinate in almost any
kind of soil, but it should be somewhat porous and well drained. Sow
in early Spring.
Propagation by Division— A cuneatum and A. Roenbeckii are the two
Maidenhair ferns most largely grown. These and their allied forms,
which have become unsightly through cutting the fronds, on being re-
peatedly used in decorations during the Winter season, should, while in
a dormant state, have all the fronds cut off and be placed in the coolest
house, where they should be allowed to rest as long as possible. The
appearance of the young fronds will serve as an indication as to how the
plants should be split up previous to repotting. Put the pieces in 5-inch
pots. In potting use a loam which is apt to get hard after watering;
this, with a little sand and leaf soil, will give good results. In starting
the plants they will not suffer by having the house almost without
shade.
FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 103
ASPIDIUM CAPENSE— Where a good, hardy, ornamental Fern is
wanted for decorative purposes, one that is cheaply got up and not
easily spoiled, A. capense will answer. From a well filled 6 or 8-inch
pot several dozen plants may be raised within a few months. It is a
greenhouse species requiring but little heat in Winter.
ASPLENIUM— A very large genus. Only a very few of the species are
extensively grown, but none of them is on the short list of the best dec-
orative Ferns for florists. A. nidus, the Bird's-nest Fern, a native of
Australia, is a striking species with very large simple leaves. It must
have perfect drainage, rather rough and fibry soil, and a stove tempera-
ture.
CIBOTIUM (Dicksonia) SCHIEDEI— A low-growing Tree-Fern, native
of Mexico. The fronds are of a light shade of green and very much divided,
those of young plants arching gracefully. It stands well in a dry
atmosphere. Young plants come readily from spores. Old plants some-
times make numerous growths at the base of the stem. If these are
taken off with a few roots attached and put in the sand bed for a few
weeks they make specimen plants very quickly.
CYRTOniUM (Aspidium) FALCATUH, together with C. Fortunei and
A. caryotideum, arfe among the hardiest of the Ferns used for decorat-
ing, for which purpose they are much grown. The coolest house will do
for the plants after they are of the requisite size. The fronds are simply
pinnate, the pinnules resembling, to a certain extent, the leaf divisions
of the fish-tail Palm, Caryota urens. Young plants are raised from
spores.
DAVALLIA — A genus of Ferns having scaly rhizomes which usually
creep along the surface of the soil and send out roots from their under
surfaces. Of the few species grown D. fijiensis plumosa is one of the
most ornamental, having very finely divided fronds. It must be grown
in a warm house. As it is not a deep rooting plant pans or baskets
should be used according to the purpose for which the plants are wanted.
It is propagated by division of the rhizomes while dormant. D. bullata,
D. pentaphylla, D. Tyermanni, and D. dissecta are well adapted for bas-
kets. Those made of wire should be selected, so that the rhizomes, as
they lengthen, may be pegged against the side. D. alpina and D. par-
vula are exceedingly pretty dwarf-growing species for a warm green-
house. D. stricta is grown as a pot plant; this species is easily raised
from spores.
D. Mariesii is the species used in making up " Fern Balls." It is decidu-
ous and should be kept moist enough In Winter to prevent the rhizomes
from shrivelling.
D. Mooreana is a desirable plant for house decoration, but is not
grown in quantity, owing to the difficulty of getting up a large stock
within a reasonable time. Those in a starved condition make the best
stock plants.
DICKSONIA PAROMETZ is a very useful, medium-sized decorative
species. It is freely increased by division.
104 FERNS AND LYCOPODS.
D. antarctica— The stems of this noble Tree-Fern are sometimes im-
ported in a dormant state. When placed in a cool, moist house in pots
only large enough to accommodate them, they usually start into
growth. Young plants are raised from spores sown in a cool, shaded
greenhouse. They sometimes germinate freely sown on the stems of the
old plants. The fronds are of a leathery texture, and the plants stand
much rough treatment.
LOMARIA QIBBA is a miniature Tree-Fern forming very graceful
rosettes of simply divided leaves. It is useful even in a very small state,
as the foliage is different from that of most other Ferns grown in quantity
for decorative purposes. Old plants produce fertile fronds in abun-
dance, and if the spores are harvested and sown at the proper time, they
vegetate very quickly. By this method of increase, plants in 5-inch pots
may be produced in 12 months from sowing. Of this species there are
one or two handsome forms. L. g. Belli has the points of the pinnae
beautifully tasselled. L. g. robusta is of a robust growing nature. A
species closely allied to L. gibba, known as L. ciliata, has shorter and
stouter fronds. The plant is quite as useful and as easily raised from
spores as L. gibba.
MICROLEPIA (Davallia ) HIRTA CRIST ATA is one of the handsomest
of crested Ferns, capable of being grown into very large, symmetrical
specimens. To have it at its best it needs a warm temperature. Water
should be kept from the fronds, as they are quite hairy and are apt to
turn brown when kept wet. Increased by division.
NEPHROLEPIS — The species and forms are for the most part plants
with tough, leathery fronds, enabling them to be used with little injury
for decorating or house plants. Several varieties are largely grown.
The most popular are forms of N. exaltata. N. e. bostoniensis is an old
and deservedly popular plant which has within the last few years been
very extensively employed as a decorative plant. Large 'specimens are
well rdapted for placing on pedestals, or hanging from the roof of a
large conservatory. It is increased by division, planting the pieces in
shallow soil, on benches, and potting up the young plants, which are
formed from runners. The plant known as N. davallioides furcans is a
crested form, evidently not of N. davallioides but of some other species,
probably one allied to N. acuta. When planted out on benches it gives
off plants from runners in the same manner as the Boston Fern, but not
so plentifully. Old specimens may be divided and the pieces put thickly
together on a bench, in leaf mould and sand, to make a little growth
before potting.
N. e. cristata is a form closely resembling the last named ; it needs
more heat to develop it perfectly.
N. washingtoniensis and N. w. pendula are both good kinds for decora-
tive purposes. The fronds after being cut will last for a long time un-
der what would seem adverse conditions.
N. cordifolia, when well grown, is an elegant decorative subject. The
typical form is much smaller than any of the above-mentioned species
FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 105
and varieties. The fronds are narrow and the leaf divisions close together,
but, like some of the others, it varies much. One of the varieties pro-
duces tubers ; the fronds in this case are large and may be mistaken for
those of N. exaltata.
N. c. pectinata is a well known variety, having the fronds narrow
and drooping. When matured it is usually grown in baskets suspended
from the roof of a greenhouse. Useful specimens may also be grown in
5-inch pots. Increased by divisions, which may be quite small.
N. acuta is a stout growing and distinct species; the fronds are
sometimes 16 inches broad and from 2 to 4 feet long. It makes but few
fronds when compared with some of the others. It must have abundant
root room. Increased by stolons.
N. davallioides is somewhat coarse in growth. It needs careful han-
dling while the fertile fronds are developing. Moderate-sized specimens
do not show this plant at its best, as it is the very long fertile fronds on
plants several feet across which make it attractive. Increased by divi-
sion.
ONYCHIUM— Of this genus two species are commonly grown for
decorative purposes; the fronds are very much divided. O. auratum is
the largest, but O. japonicum is the handsomest. Both are easily in-
creased from spores; or the old plants may be divided, but only to make
large specimens.
PLATYCERIUM (Stag Horn Fern)— From their wonderful resem-
blance to the antlers of a stag well grown plants of the Platyceriums
never fail to attract attention. The species called P. grande is the most
striking of the number. A native of the northern part of Australia it
needs more heat than most of the others. While they succeed pretty
well in pots they do better and look more natural when grown on blocks
of wood. Some forked limbs of trees should be cut up on which to fasten
the plants. The pieces should be in the neighborhood of 18 inches in
length. Drive in a few nails here and there;, place some rough peat and
moss against the wood; put the plant in position and wire it firmly,
packing in portions of the peat and moss wherever possible.
P. grande can only be propagated in quantity from the spores,
which are found in a large mass underneath the primary division of the
frond. Raising young plants in this way is not a difficult operation,
but one that requires lots of patience. A pan should be prepared con-
taining fibry peat, chopped fine; add a liberal quantity of finely-broken
brick, charcoal, and coarse sand. The pan should be placed in a flat of
water so that the mixture may derive moisture from beneath. Water
should never be given overhead, as germination depends, to a great ex-
tent, on the spores remaining in the same spot until the prothallus be-
gins to form.
P. alcicorne and its var. majus may be grown in a cool greenhouse.
These kinds, together with P. Hilhi and P. sethiopica, increase rapidly
from the roots, many bud-like processes forming on the surfaces and
106 FERNS AND LYCOPODS.
sending up tiny leaves. These young plants may be removed when an
inch or two high, and potted singly in small pots.
POLYPODIUM— This is the largest genus of the order, and includes
many plants which have long been known under other generic names.
These names are in common use, and it is likely that they will continue
to be employed for a long time. Some of the better known are Cam-
pyloneuron, Cryptosorus, Drynaria, Goniophlebium, Goniopteris, Lepi-
cystis, Niphobolus, Phegopteris, Phlebodium and Pleopeltis. There is a
great number of exceedingly beautiful plants among the species. The
varieties, especially those of the common Polypody, P. vulgare, are
among the handsomnest of hardy Ferns, but they are not so much grown
in America as in Europe, where they do grandly in outdoor ferneries.
P. (Goniophlebium) sub=auriculatum makes one of the finest basket
plants for a warm greenhouse. The fronds are several feet in length,
and drooping. This Fern is not diflacult to grow, provided it be given
a fibrous soil and an abundant supply of water during the period of
growth. It is helped along wonderfully by adding to the soil some finely
crushed bone with the minute particles washed out, only saving the
rougher material in the process of washing. This substance, by the
way, is of great service as permanent food for many of the Ferns, but
the deleterious matter must be removed by washing.
P. (Niphobolus) lingua, from Northern India and Japan, is almost
hardy and one of the best for house culture. There are three forms: one
variegated, another crested, the third having the largest fronds. The
fronds are undivided, very leathery in texture and remain in good condi-
tion for more than a year. All of them are very readily increased by
division.
P. Heracleum and P. conjugatum are suitable for a warm conserva-
tory. When well grown they are odd and attractive. The very thick
rhizomes grow on the surface of the soil and accommodate themselves
in a wonderful way to a limited rooting area by growing in coils.
P. (Phlebodium) aureum should be more grown for decorativepurposes,
as it will stand a dry atmosphere, is very graceful, and the spores on a
small frond will raise thousands of plants. They should be sown on
very finely chopped Fern roots mixed with screened moss. The fronds
are from 2 to 4 feet in length, and from 9 to 18 inches broad, simply
divided. It grows most luxuriantly among Fern root, peat and moss.
There is a form called P. a. sporadocarpum with fronds very glaucous,
almost blue, usually growing from 12 to 18 inches high— a handsome
plant, showing up well under gaslight. Increased by rhizomes. It needs
more heat than the type.
P. rigidulum— A species too seldom seen. It has two kinds of fronds
very different from eaeh other; the barren ones are about 9 inches In
length, divided half way to the mid-rib, forming blunt lobes. The fertile
ones reach a height of from 2 to 4 feet, and are 12 to 18 inches broad.
A very handsome plant for collections.
P. Phymatodes is a rhizomatous species of very rapid growth, with
exceedingly graceful leaves. The fronds are deeply pinnatifid, the fertile
FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 107
ones narrowest. One of the uses to which this Fern may be put is in
training against damp walls or on the dead stems of Tree Ferns. It is
easiest propagated by taking pieces of the rhizomes with fronds attached
and pegging down in 4 or 5-inch pots of sandy soil.
PTERIS— There are many good decorative plants in this genus, all of
which are easy to propagate. Most of them may be grown in ordinary
greenhouse temperature. Of P. serrulata, much used in a small state,
there are numerous forms, some of which have beautifully crested fronds
and others variegated.
P. cretica albo=Iineata is one of the finest of all variegated Ferns. The
barren fronds are nearest the base of the plant; they are shorter and
broader than the fertile ones. A broad band of creamy white occupies
the middle of each leaf division. This Fern comes true from the spores,
which vegetate in a very short time after sowing.
P. quadriaurita, a variable species. The most useful form is known
as P. q. argyriea, having a white mark down the center of each frond —
a very useful variety in a small state. It is raised from spores.
Pteris tremula is best for using in pots not under 5-inch. It is one of
the quickest raised from spores. There are crested forms. The one
named P. t. Smithiana has been in the trade for several years.
P. Wallichii and P. inequalifolia (the latter evidently related to P.
semipinnata) are coarse growing and easily multiplied by division. P.
hastata and P. macrophylla have very dark green fronds. Both are
very liable to insect attacks, unless grown cool. They are both useful in
2 and 3-inch pots.
SELAGINELLA— Although not related to Ferns, some of the species
have a striking resemblance to these plants. Their cultural require-
ments are almost similar. They do best in shade, and with a few excep-
tions they need a rather warm atmosphere, especially while making
their new growth. They may be propagated from spores, division of
the crowns, or from cuttings. Propagation by spores is seldom attempted,
as dividing the plants and rooting from cuttings will give an abun-
dant supply.
S. Emmeh'ana, one of the best for supplying small plants for mixing
with Ferns, is increased by breaking up the mature fronds into small
pieces, and scattering these on the surface of aibox or bed of sandy soil,
which should be kept moist and shaded from the sun. Every small
piece will make a plant.
S. Kraussiana is a dense growing moss-like species, much used for
covering the soil in pots in which other plants are growing, in Fern
dishes, and for the borders of conservatory beds. S. K. aurea has yel-
low foliage. S. K. variegata is green and white. In propagating this
species and its forms it should not be broken up into little tufts and
potted, as is usually the case. Take single growths and put, say three
of them, in a 3-inch pot; in a short time they will developeuough growth
to cover the soil.
108 FERNS AND LYCOPODS.
S. erythropus is a useful species with reddish stems reaching a height
of about 9 inches.
S. Martensii, a Mexican species, is one of those most frequently grown.
It is exceedingly easy to propagate, as long serial roots are made from
the stems. Cuttings, say about 4 inches in length, will root well if put
in small pots and kept close; or to fill large pans, and have them present
a well-furnished appearance in a short time, root the pieces in sand,
afterward putting directly in the pans.
S. lepidophylla is the well-known "Resurrection Plant," which, when
dry, curls up into a ball, and which uncurls when placea in water.
S. viticulosa grows about 8 inches high, is always bright green. An
easily divided plant and useful in a small state.
S. csesia arborea is a climbing species very suitable for rambling over
rustic work in a moist conservatory. Where its aerial roots are allowed
to fasten themselves to suitable material it grows into a dense, irregular
mass of lovely bluish-green foliage.
Soil— This should be of a porous nature, through which water will
pass freely. Small plants from spores will need about two parts leaf
soil and one each of loam and sand. Loam, whenever used, should be
fibrous, well broken up and not sifted. For plants in pots larger than 4-
inch, leaf soil, loam and sand, in equal parts, will be a safe compound.
Some Ferns, notably A. Farleyense, are benefited by having some rotted
cow manure mixed with the soil. Large plants, and those which have
to remain in the same pots for any length of time without shifting,
should have less leaf soil and more loam. But most of the species thrive
in a variety of soils. The usual time for potting large plants is before
starting into growth; but rapid-growing, small plants should be shifted
into larger pots as they need them.
Summer Quarters for Cool House Ferns—Many Ferns used during
Winter as decorative plants will be found to put on a vigorous growth
in frames during the warm months. Select those frames with a northern
exposure, with the sashes tilted to give an abundance of air. The pots
may be plunged or placed on some material capable of giving off consid-
erable moisture. The plants may be kept in this structure till cool
weather. Among the kinds which may be thus treated are Pteris Vic-
torise, P. cretica albo-hneata, P. Mayii, P. serrulata and its many
forms, P. tremula, P. hastata, Onychium japonicum, Aspidium capense,
Adiantum Capillus-Veneris, A.formosum,Cyrtomium falcatum and Dick-
sonia antarctica. In Winter a minimum temperature of 45 degrees will
keep all of the Ferns named above in healthy condition. For the tender
kinds 10 to 15 degrees higher will be necessary.
Shading— Some Ferns, such as Cheilanthes vestita, grow in dry places
in the full sun, but the vast majority thrive only under conditions exactly
the reverse. In Winter the very thinnest shade will be sufficient, and
from the 1st of April to the end of September it should be heavy enough
to intercept the sun's rays.
FERNS AND LYCOPODS, 109
Preparing Soil for Fern Spores— The greatest hindrances to raising
Ferns from spores are the lower forms of plant life ever present in the
soil, and very often in the water. These consist of Mosses, Liverworts
and the various confervoid growths. Many of them, owing to the
favorable conditions presented, vegetate as quickly as the spores of the
Ferns and grow into a mass, choking the prothallus in the first stages
of growth. The only means of getting around this difficulty lies in ster-
ilizing the soil, or, at least, that part of it on which the spores are to be
sown; and this can only be done safely by subjecting it to a temperature
sufficiently high to kill all plant organisms, by baking, steaming or boil-
ing. The last method will be the most available in the majority of
cases. The soil may be boiled for 15 or 20 minutes, and afterward
poured into wide flat boxes to dry. Shallow pans are the most conve-
nient in which to vegetate the spores; they should be well drained with
potsherds and these covered with a layer of sphagnum. The kind of
soil to be used is of little importance, provided it be porous and free of
vegetable organisms. Loam, leaf mould and finely broken brick, in
equal parts, make an ideal mixture. Press it firmly and give water
always by sinking the pan up to the rim in a vessel containing water.
Gatliering and Sowing Spores— Many failures in germinating some of
the rarer kinds of Ferns may be set down to harvesting the spores at
the wrong time. They should always be gathered with the aid of a
hand-magnifying glass, which will show when the cases are about to
burst. Cut off the entire frond, or as much as may be wanted, and put
between sheets of white paper to dry. In a day or two the spores will
have fallen from the frond; if not, a gentle rubbing between the fingers
will release them. They should then be scattered on the surface of the
soil in the pan, taking care to sow very thinly, as they are very liable to
dampen off when the prothalli are too close together. Cover with a
pane of glass and put the pan in a shaded frame, or in a heavily shaded
part of the greenhouse. When the prothallus develops, and just as the
first tiny leaves appear, the glass covers may be removed, to harden the
seedlings a little. A day or two after they may be pricked off into other
pans of soil, taking one small patch at a time on the end of a knife blade
and merely pressing them into a previously made cavity on the surface
of the soil. They may then be watered through a fine rose.
Viviparous Ferns are those which develop bulbils along the midribs
or on the lateral branchlets of the fronds, thus providing a ready means
of propagation. Polystichum angulare, Asplenium bulbiferum and
Woodwardia radicans are good examples. There are also several other
well-known Ferns which possess this peculiarity. To increase Ferns by
this means sink the pots up to their rims in a suitable mixture of soil
to enable the fronds which are provided with bulbils to be easily pegged
down, so that plantlets may be encouraged to develop roots quickly.
When they have made a sufficient quantity to enable them to become
self-supporting they may be separated from the frond and potted sepa-
rately into 21/2-inch pots, or, if too small for pots, they may be pricked
off into boxes or pans.
110 FEENS AND LYCOPODS.
Insect Enemies— If the plants are not subjected to adverse condi-
tions, such as too high a temperature, or insufficient moisture in the air
or at the roots, they will seldom be attacked by insects. The Mealy
Bug, Thrips and Brown Scale, are sometimes troublesome. Scale is not
easy to remove, and the only efficacious method is to use a sponge and
water. For the other insects fumigation or vaporizing may be resorted
to, or, if only a few plants are affected, they may be laid on their sides
and the insects removed by using the hose. <Slugs are the greatest ene-
mies of the Ferns, and a close watch should be kept for them. Various
methods are employed to capture them, such as a board smeared on the
under side with lard, cabbage leaves, and sliced turnips, or potatoes laid
among the plants; or by using camphor among the pots, and air-slacked
lime on and under the benches. If the slugs are numerous, hand-picking
should first be resorted to. They feed at night and rest during the day.
They will usually be found in the angular space beneath the rims of the
pots.
Ill
Hardy Perennial Plants.
AC/ENA MICROPHYLLA— A native of New Zealand. In localities
where this species will thrive it will be found one of the best trailing
dwarf sub-shrubs. The flowers are inconspicuous, but the flower heads,
on maturing, are covered with long, crimson spines, which give the
plant a very ornamental appearance. For a rockery few plants surpass
it in forming neat, compact masses. It is not particular as to soil. In
this locahty young plants are best put out in their permanent positions
early in the Fall, as when put out in Spring they do not make sufficient
growth to insure a healthy, vigorous condition during the hot months.
It is propagated by division and from seeds.
ACANTHUS— In warm spots, at least three of the species are hardy
with us, but they bloom only sparingly. In one or two of the species,
but notably in A. spinosus, the flower stalks have a handsome appear-
ance for quite a while after the flowers are dead. A. mollis and A. m.
latifolius were used for bedding in this city a few years ago. These
kinds are easily increased by division of the roots. Seeds are readily
obtained. The seedhngs may be planted out in places where they are to
remain a few weeks after germinating. They are deep-rooting plants.
In the colder parts of the country all of the species should have the
crowns protected in Winter.
ACHILLEA niLLEFOLIUn— A native composite, with large flat corymbs
of white, red, or purple flowers. The leaves are much divided. It is one
of the easiest plants to cultivate in the open border, spreading very
rapidly and flowering profusely. Large clumps may be divided with a
spade at any time during Spring or Autumn and replanted. It usually
grows from one to two feet high.
A. ptarmica fIore=pIeno— The variety of this known as The Pearl is
one of the most desirable of hardy herbaceous plants, because of the
flowers, which are double and white. They are produced in great pro-
fusion if the plants get fair treatment. This Achillea should not be
divided in Spring, for unless favorable weather conditions follow the
operation the plants will receive a check from which they do not thor-
oughly recover the same season. If taken up and divided during the
first half of October, replanted and watered if necessary, they will de-
velop working coots before freezing weather, and send up flowers the
following season as if nothing had happened. Do not divide the plants
too closely, and if the ground in which they are growing is dry, water
well before the operation and give another watering when the pieces are
replanted.
Other varieties of A. p. flore-pleno are known as Snowball and Ele-
ganSj all of them are white flowered.
112 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
A. tomentosa is a dwarf, woolly-leaved evergreen, with yellow
flowers. Increased by division.
A. mongolica grows about 18 inches high, bears single white flowers.
Comes into bloom early, and is used for cutting. All of the kinds need
full sunshine.
ACIPHYLLA SQUARROSA and A. COLENSOI— New Zealand umbel-
liferous plants, with dense rosettes of sharp-pointed leaves. In a young
and flowerless stage they are attractive, and may be used in Summer for
rockwork. In the colder parts the plants should either be lifted and
stored in a frame, or protected by a covering of some kind. Both are
raised from seeds sown during the latter part of February.
ACONITUn (Monkshood)— In the warmer parts of the country, where
the Delphiniums will not thrive, some of the Aconitums will be found to
be pretty fair substitutes, as they thrive moderately well where the sun
is only allowed to strike them through a leafy shade. If the soil around
them is given a mulch of 2 or 3 inches deep, to preserve moisture, they
will flower all the better for it. The species are very numerous and have
a wide geographical range. A.napellusisthe best known; unfortunately
it is one of the most poisonous of cultivated plants, but hurtful only
when taken internally. Some of its varieties are A. n. album, flowers
white; A. n. longibracteatum, rich blue; A. n. bicolor, white and lilac;
A. n. Braunii, deep purple. A. ochroleucum and A. pyrenaicum have
pale yellow flowers. A. napellus and its forms flower about midsum-
mer. A. Fiseheri, a pale blue flowered native species, blooms late in
Summer. Propagated by division in Fall or Spring.
ACORUS CALAMUS VARIEGATUS (Variegated Sweet Flag) is a
grassy-looking plant, with finely marked leaves. It is well suited for
growing on the margins of artificial lakes; few other places will keep it
in a healthy state unless the soil be moist and partly shaded. It should
be propagated by division of the rhizomes, as growth commences in
Spring. A. gramineus variegatus is an exceedingly handsome little
variegated plant, growing only a few inches high. It will thrive in
much dryer soil than the first-named species. It makes a great number
of grassy-looking growths, so that division is an easy matter at almost
any time.
ADONIS— -The annual species, of which there are two— A. aestivalis
and A. autumnalis — are more commonly grown than the perennials of
which there are four. A. vernalis and A. pyrenaica are very elegant
species for borders or rockwork. The flowers are large, yellow ; the foli-
age much divided. They do best with slight shade. Propagation by seed
is a rather slow method. Large plants will best stand division in early
Autumn.
iCTHIONEMA CORIDIFOLIUH— A slender, evergreen shrub, growing
about 6 inches, suitable for edgings of borders or for rockwork. Very
readily raised from seeds which should be sown in Autumn and the seed-
lings put out early in Spring. When in rockwork pockets give a mulch-
ing of leaf Boll or moss to prevent baking of the earth and to keep the
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 113
roots cool. It belongs to the Nat. Ord. Cruciferae. Other good species
are A£,. grandiflorum and .^. pulchellum.
AQROSTEMMA (Lychnis) CORONARIA— This species and its varieties
are always satisfactory in the herbaceous border. They are very quickly
raised from seed, or by division. The foliage is silvery throughout;
the flowers are rose colored; A. c. atro-sanguinea, crimson; A. c. alba,
white; A. c. hybrida, rosy crimson. They grow from one to two feet
high. Almost any kind of soil will suit them, but they must have full
sunshine.
A. flos-Jovis differs from A. coronaria, in having umbellate heads of
bloom, with the foliage narrower. The flowers are purple or scarlet.
All of the above are useful plants for florists to handle. Sow the seed
in the Fall; keep in a cooj house. As soon as the seedlings are large
enough prick off into boxes. They may be put out in a cold frame very
early in the season. Or by sowing early in September the seedlings can
be wintered in frames.
AJUQA— The creeping or stoloniferous species are much used as dwarf
plants for forming dense carpets, either on rockwork or in the open
border. As they grow in dense masses they usually are self-supporting
during the hot months. A. reptans var rubra has dark purple foliage.
A. r. variegata is beautifully mottled with yellow. A. genevensis is a
variable species with dull red, white or blue flowers; does well in shady
places. All of the above are readily increased by division either in Fall
or Spring.
ALTH^A ROSEA (Hollyhock)— One of the tallest growing herbaceous
plants, also one of the showiest. It is what may be called an old-fash-
ioned flower, and it is doubtful if there has been any improvement in the
size and shape of the bloom for a goodly number of years. A host of
varieties used to be kept true to name years ago; these were perpetu-
ated by cuttings, divisions and grafting on roots; but now the best
sorts come tolerably true from seeds. The principal colors are white,
yellow, pink, red and purple. Seeds to produce flowering plants within
a year should be sown as soon as ripe — usually in August. Sow in a
box of rather light soil and cover very lightly with screened moss. The
seedlings being large from the start should be put singly in small pots,
and as they get too large for that size, shift into two or three sizes
larger. Keep them in a cold frame; give an abundance of ventilation in
favorable weather so that they may become stocky and robust. The
ground should be well prepared for their reception, otherwise they will
not attain full size — 6 to 8 feet tall — and only remain in bloom two or
three weeks. The plants should be put out as early as the ground can
be worked. Good kinds should be marked for seed as they bloom, and
extra good sorts may be propagated by any of the above mentioned
methods.
ALYSSUM (Madwort)— In this genus there are several rockwork or
borderplants, which, in their seasons, make a good show while in bloom.
A. saxatile and A. s. compactum are Spring bloomers. The plants are
114 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
of a dwarf shrubby nature with grayish-green leaves and dense heads of
deep yellow flowers. A. s. variegatum has the foliage marked with yel-
low blotches, which, when the plant is out of bloom, renders it more
valuable than the type as an ornamental plant during the Summer. A.
gemonense is nearly allied to A. saxatile, but is less hardy, and continues
longer in bloom. A. rostra tum grows about I1/2 feet high and blooms
later than any of the above named. The species and forms are not par-
ticular as to soil, usually growing very freely wherever planted. They
are easily raised from seed, which should be sown in August and the
seedlings kept in a light, airy position until large enough to be planted
out.
ANEMONE JAPONICA— This species and its varieties are late flowering
hierbaceous plants, growing from one to two feet high, with large white
or pale rose-colored flowers, useful for cutting. The varieties are A. j.
alba, A. j. rosea and A. j. Whirlwind. Root propagation is the method
employed, and it may be done at almost any season, but preferably in
early Spring. Dig up some of the oldest plants, saving even the small
roots. Cut both large and small into pieces about 2 inches in length
and put in boxes of sandy soil, covering the pieces with an inch of the
same material. Keep fairly moist and in a cool frame. When the roots
have developed growths from 2 to 3 inches high put in 3-inch pots,
plunging these in ashes and keeping them covered for a few days. After
the plants make a sufiicient quantity of roots they should be put out in
their permanent quarters, where preparation should be made for them
In advance by having the ground deeply worked and well manured.
During Summer, both young and old plants should be heavily mulched
if the maximum number of flowers are expected from them. During dry
weather the plants, if neglected, are apt to stand still and throw up
only a few feeble looking flowers, so it is important that they be kept
moderately moist by mulching. Short grass, leaves, or half-rotted
stable bedding will answer. In this genus there are about 85 species,
several of which have numerous varieties. Most of them are desirable
plants, but some are weedy, and increase too rapidly in gardens.
A. alpina, a European species, grows about 18 inches high, forming
large clumps. The flowers are usually solitary, from 2 to 3 inches in
diameter, white inside, purplish outside. There is a very fine yellow
flowered variety of this named A. a. sulphurea. Both kinds are slow in
making flowering plants from seeds.
Among the slender, tuberous rooted section, A. Appenina and A.
nemorosa are early flowering dwarf si^ecies well suited for naturalizing
among deciduous, low-growing trees and shrubs, as they make most of
their growth before the shrubs and^trees are in leaf.
ANTIRRHINUM (Snapdragon)— The varieties of A. majus have long
been grown as hardy perennials in Europe. In the northern and middle
parts the climatic conditions are more favorable for their growth in the
late Summer and Autumn months, as they flourish best in a moist, cold
atmosphere. In America, especially in the Middle and South Atlantic
States, they are best treated as biennials, as the plants which survive
the Winter are usually not in as vigorous a condition as could be wished.
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 115
Cuttings may be put in during October and given the protection of a
frame during the cold months. Or seeds should be sown late in Septem-
ber to have good-sized plants by the following Spring. The tops of the
seedlings may be rooted quickly in the propagating bed of a cool house;
or they may be grown from the start with the view of flowering them
in pots, for which purpose they are entirely satisfactory. The principal
colors are white, red, purple and yellow, several kinds having combina-
tions of two or more of these colors. A. asarina, from the south of
France, has a trailing habit; the leaves are grayish green and of a
clammy nature; flowers yellowish white. It thrives best in positions
partly shaded from the sun. It reproduces itself freely from seeds which
ripen in abundance and may frequently be seen growing in the chinks of
shady walls.
AQUILEQIA (Columbine)— Hardy perennial plants with very showy
flowers. The colors include red, white, blue and yellow; often there are
two or more of these colors in the same flower. About 30 species are in
cultivation. There are numerous varieties, the results of hybridization,
few of which, however, surpass the species in attractiveness as border
plants. The Aquilegia is so easily hybridized that it is almost impossi-
ble to obtain plants from seeds true to name when two or more species
are grown near each other; even with two species apparently very dis-
tinct, such as A. chrysantha and A. flabellata, they readily mix, but the
progeny has a very undesirable combination of colors in the flowers.
It is always advisable to protect a few flowers of the desirable species
from the visitations of insects, so as to make certain of having the seed-
lings true. I have found the best way to do this is to flower a few
plants in pots and keep the blossoms covered with fine cloth while fer-
tilization is in progress. The seeds germinate irregularly when they
remain long out of the soil, but when sown as soon as gathered they
vegetate very freely, even in midsummer. Spring sowing is unsatisfac-
tory, because the seedlings do not make desirable growth during hot
weather, and often more than a year elapses before any flowers are pro-
duced. Sow in moderately light soil, and cover lightly with screened
moss; keep in an airy, cool house. When the seedlings are large enough
they may be pricked off into boxes, or round the edges of small pots of
soil. Put them out in a frame when they are large enough to stand sun-
shine. If planted outside, where they are to flower, by the end of Sep-
tember they will make fairly strong crowns before cool weather sets in,
and in the following Spring will bloom strong and vigorous. Among
the red flowering kinds we have A. formosa, A. californica, A. truncata
and A. canadensis; in white there are several, among the best being A.
californica alba, A. flabellata, a dwarf-growing species with very orna-
mental foliage; A. coerulea alba, and A. vulgaris alba. The best of the
yellows are A. chrysantha and A. c. flavescens. In the blue-flowered
forms there is a large number to choose from: A. coerulea is a very satis-
factory species; A. vulgaris coerulea, A. olympica are both good. In A.
glandulosa the sepals are blue and the petals white. Several of the spe-
cies and varieties are very easily forced into bloom, among them A.
flabellata. It is a trifle later in coming into flower than A. canadensis,
which usually is in full flower in this latitude by April 10. A. chrys-
116 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
antha is later in flowering, but a hybrid between it and A. flabellata,
witii the last named as the seed parent, bloomed this season a week ahead
of A. canadensis. The color of this hybrid is a little puzzling; there are
several dozen plants andnot a single specimen is different from the others.
The petals are yellow, the spurs of which are the same color as the
sepals — deep purplish blue. All of the plants are quite dwarf, resem-
bling A. flabellata in this respect. The Aquilegias have a habit of dying
out after the second and third year. Any species v^hich it is desired to
increase in the absence of seeds should be lifted, divided and replanted
early in the Fall, so that the pieces may have a chance to become estab-
lished before Winter.
ARABIS (Rock Cress)— Many of the species of Rock Cress are of no
horticultural value and are seldom seen outside of botanical collections.
Three of them, however, are among the most desirable of Spring flower-
ing plants, and may be found in nearly every garden of any size. They
are A. albida, A. lucida and A. alpina. A. albida is the best knovsrn; it
forms a dense carpet, the stems being long and wiry, with dense rosettes
of leaves at the ends. The flowers, which are pure white, are borne in
great profusion, almost hiding the foliage. A. alpina is not such a free
grower, but is equally suitable for rockwork, especially the variegated
form. A. lucida is dwarfer than the other two; this has also a varie-
gated form which, like the variety of A. alpina, should not be allowed
to flower. The variegated varieties should be propagated by division,
or by cuttings put in early in the season. The green-leaved kinds are
best raised from seeds, treated in the same manner as recommended for
Aubrietia.
ARALIA (Fatsia) PAPYRIFERA is the rice paper plant of the Chinese.
It is one of the noblest plants in cultivation for sub-tropical effects. The
leaves are palmately divided, supported by strong stalks from a stout
central stem. The whole plant has a grayish cast to it. In the North-
ern States it stands the Winter if the crowns are protected with some
rough material. In a single season strong crowns will grow 8 or 10 feet
high. It is propagated by cutting up the rhizome-like roots into pieces
about 3 inches long and covering them with moss or sand. Keep the
boxes containing the roots in a cool frame all Winter, introducing them
into a little heat early in the Spring so as to have the plants large
enough to plant out by the middle of May. The flower is not the least
attractive part of the plant. In the Southern States the plant is in
bloom during the months of September and October; but in this latitude
it is usually unfolding when its career is cut short by cold weather. The
color is greenish white, the flowers being arranged in drooping panicles
2 to 3 feet in length.
ARQEMONE (Devil's Fig)— Most of the species grown in gardens are
of annual duration. They will germinate outdoors late in Spring and
develop very rapidly into flowering plants. A. grandiflora is a peren-
nial with white flowers 3 to 5 inches in diameter, but not so free in
blooming as the annual species. It must be given a position in full sun-
shine. Seedlings should be pricked off into small pots as soon as the
seed leaves are developed, as the roots will not endure much disturbance.
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 117
ARMERIA (Sea Pink)— Of the Sea Pinks A. vulgaris is the best known.
It grows in dense low clumps, having narrow grass-like leaves. The
flowers are in close heads, on scapes only a few inches high. There are
numerous forms of this species, with red, lilac, deep pink and white
flowers. A. cephalotes has much larger leaves than the above, and the
flowers, which are deep rose, or crimson, are borne on very long scapes.
A. plantaginea is intermediate in size between the two first-named spe-
cies. The choicer varieties are best increased by division ; the pieces
should be potted in sandy soil in the beginning of October and kept in a
close frame to encourage roots. All of the species are best raised from
seed. Sow late in Autumn, in a cool house, prick off the seedlings and
remove to a cold frame early to thoroughly harden off. In this section
we put out plants of this class in the open ground as soon as it is in a
workable condition, so that they may be well established before the hot
weather arrives.
ASCLEPIAS TUBEROSA (Pleurisy Root)— One of our most showy
flowered native herbaceous plants. It is deep rooting, and is frequently
seen growing luxuriantly in dry fields in positions fully exposed to the
sun, with the surrounding herbage almost withered. It is late in bloom-
ing and valuable on this account. In removing plants from their native
places they should be taken only after they have completed growth. As
many of the roots as possible should be saved, as the species dislikes
removal. Raising plants from seeds is the most certain method of prop-
agation. As they grow but slowly in the seedling stage sow only a
few seeds in a pot of rather firm soil, and allow the young plants to
remain in these pots for at least a year before planting out. When culti-
vated in gardens the blooming period is longer than is the case with
wild plants.
ASPERULA ODORATA (Sweet Woodruff )— A slender growing plant of
the Bedstraw family (Rubiaceae,) with pure white flowers in May. It
will succeed in clumps if given a partially shaded situation, but as it
blooms only for a short season, and the foliage is not very attractive,
it is sometimes grown in a quite satisfactory way in company with other
plants, such as Vinca herbacea, V. minor, and even with varieties of the
English Ivy when used for covering ground among shrubs and under
trees. The flowers of the Woodruff appearing among the foliage of these
plants makes an exceedingly pretty picture. It is propagated by divi-
sion and from seeds. The leaves, when dried, have a very agreeable
aromatic odor.
ASTER (nichaelmas Daisy)— Nearly a hundred species and varieties
of these popular border plants are offered by some of the European
nurserymen. Many of the plants are indispensable for the ornamenta-
tion of the herbaceous border in late Summer and Autumn. They are
all of free growth and will thrive in ordinary garden soil without much
attention; but if the soil be worked deep, and well manured before plant-
ing, the plants will show the results of it in the size and number of
flowers. These asters are best increased by division before starting into
active growth. Of A. novi-belgii there are numerous forms, some of
them only 18 inches high and from that ranging to a height of 6 feet.
118 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
The flowers are lavender or violet blue, rose and white; A. novse-angliap
is one of the best-known species, tall growing, with purple flowers; its
variety, A. n.-a. rubra, bearing rose-colored flowers, should always be
included in a collection. Other good forms of this species are A. n.-a.
praecox, crimson purple; A. n.-a. Woolston, light purplish blue, and A.
n.-a. pulchellus, violet blue.
ASTILBE JAPONICA, usually known in gardens as Spiraea japonica.
The Spiraeas belong to the Rose famliy, while Astilbe japonica is classed
with the Saxifragas, but A. Lemoinei is said to be a hybrid between A.
japonica and a species of Aruncus, which is also a rosaceous genus. If
this be the case then both plants must necessarily be closely related, and
if not of the same genus then they are of the same family. Astilbe ja-
ponica is better known as a forcing plant than as a subject for the hardy
border. It is best grown in partial shade, for when in sunny places,
unless kept supplied with water during dry spells, the foliage is apt to
suffer before the close of the Summer. There are several fine varieties.
A. j. compacta has more compact panicles than the type. A. j. grandi-
flora is larger; A. j. variegata has a yellowish variegation; A. rivularia
makes a splendid border plant in this section, growing to a height of
5 feet, and blooming late in the season. A. Thunbergii grows about 18
inches high, and is much used as a forcing plant. In the border it thrives
best in heavy, retentive soil. All of the species are propagated by divi-
sion, in the early Fall.
AUBRIETIA DELTOIDEA — A low-growing, evergreen Spring-flowering
plant, forming dense cushions of growth and thickly studded with small,
purple flowers early in the season. There are numerous forms; some of
the best are A. d. Hendersonii, more robust than the type, with deep
violet-blue flowers; A. d. Eyrei, a free-growing form, and A. d. grapca, a
large light-purple flowered variety. Aubrietias are well adapted for
rockwork culture, as they like well-drained situations and ratLier light
loamy soil. They will stand full sunshine. The readiest means of prop-
agation is by seed which may be sown early enough to have the seed-
lings established before freezing weather; or, the old plants may be
divided and potted in sandy soil, keeping them in a frame during Winter,
and planting out as soon as the weather will permit.
BAPTISIA PERFOLIATA is a native of the Southern States, and is but
seldom seen in cultivation. Owing to its beautifully arranged perfoUate
leaves it forms a striking object in the herbaceous border. In Washing-
ton it is perfectly hardy, and ripens an abundance of seed yearly. They
are sown soon as gathered; kept in a cold frame they germinate the fol-
lowing Spring. B. australis grows from 3 to 6 feet high; the flowers
are blue. It seems to do best in deep sandy soil. Raised from seed. B.
alba and B. leucantha are white-flowered species.
BEGONIA EVANSIANA— This, the hardiest of the Begonias, is also
known as B. discolor and B, grandis. It is a native of China, Japan
and Java. It is one of the species which form bulbils, or resting buds,
in the axils of the leaves. These bulbils, when ripe, fall to the ground,
and it is from them that the young plants grow late in the following
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 119
Spring. They come safely through a temperature of several degrees be-
low zero, but just how much cold they will stand I am unable to state.
The plants thrive best in the shade of dwellings, or anywhere except
under the shade of trees, and in positions where direct sunlight reaches
them during the middle of the day. The bulbils pass the Winter success-
fully fully exposed on the surface of the soil, but precautions must be
taken to provide against rapid thawing and freezing. When the bulbils
are left to themselves they usually sprout too thickly together. The
weaker plants should therefore be thinned out, to give those which are
left full opportunity to develop, otherwise their period of blooming will
be short. To have plants early in bloom the bulbils may be harvested
shortly after the plants are done blooming, kept during the Winter in
a bottle and sown in time to have the plants in 3-inch pots by the mid-
dle of May. Notwithstanding the manj- fine varieties of Begonias for
bedding, this is one of the best for borders which get the benefit of full
light from the north.
BOCCONIA CORDATA (Plume Poppy)— Probably the most imposing
in appearance of all hardy herbaceous plants, making growths of from
6 to 10 feet high. The plant has a grayish green appearance. The
leaves are large and much cut up, or lobed. The flowers, borne in large
terminal panicles, are not showy, but they harmonize grandly with the
foliage. The plant is well fitted for isolated positions on lawns, among
shrubs, or for large herbaceous borders. While thriving best in deeply
worked, fairly rich soil it will succeed in stiff and poor ground. Seeds,
of which a medium-sized plant will produce large numbers, are best for
propagating in large quantities. They should be germinated in April
and the seedlings potted off when small. The plant is also increased
from suckers, which are produced in abundance. It is a native of China
and Japan, and very hardy.
CALLIRHOE — A genus belonging to the same family as the Abutilon
(Malvaceae). C. involucrata, the most useful species, has long, trailing
stems, with fair-sized purplish red flowers in the axils of the leaves. It
spreads very rapidly during the Summer months. A good subject for
borders of moderate width. It should be propagated from seed. Old
plants need to be frequently renewed, as they seem to exhaust them-
selves, probably owing to their rampant growth. In C.i.linearifolia the
leaves are smaller — a good form for the rockery.
CAMPANULA (Bellf lower)— The perennial species are nearly all desira-
ble border or rockwork plants, but a few of them become troublesome
by increasing too fast. C. rapunculoides, when once it becomes estab-
lished on rockwork, is sometimes very difficult to keep under control.
None of the kinds usually grown is hard to manage thriving in ordinary
garden soil. They are propagated most freely from seeds. The best
time for the operation is in late Summer, wintering the seedlings in
frames so that the plants may be in good condition for planting out
early the following Spring. C. persicifolia and its forms are easily in-
creased by division, which should be done after the flowering season.
The species in cultivation range in height from 2 or 3 inches to several
feet; but the rare dwarf kinds are seldom seen in America, nor do they
120 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
succeed so well here as they do in the cool, moist countries of Europe.
Of the tall growing border kinds C. alliarigefoha reaches a height of from
2 to 3 feet; flowers white. C. medium, the Canterbury Bell, is a biennial
which, raised from seed one year, will flower the next. C. m. calycan-
thema has the calyx colored like the corolla, forming the well-known
cup and saucer arrangement. C. pyramidalis, although a perennial, is
best treated as a biennial. In a young state it should be given the pro-
tection of a frame during Winter, and if theplants are raised from Spring
sown seed they ought to be large enough to Winter in 5-inch pots. A
few should be kept for flowering in pots, as they make exceedingly hand-
some subjects for the decoration of the conservatory in Summer. C.
persicifolia is the most useful florists' flower in the genus. C. p. alba
grandiflora has very large pure white flowers. C. p. alba coronata pro-
duces white cup and saucer-shaped flowers. C. p. alba-plena is double
white, and while it lasts it is one of the best Summer white-flowering
plants. There are also single and double blue-flowered forms. All of
them grow about 2i/^ feet high. Plants which remain in the ground
over Winter will be benefited by a mulching around the crowns— of leaf
soil mixed with short manure. Of C. Trachelium there are double blue
and white-flowered varieties; height about 2i/^ feet. C. grandis and C.
g. alba are both good; height 3 feet. C. Van Houttei, a hybrid form
with dark blue flowers, grows about 2 feet high. Among the many
dwarf species C. isophylla and C. i. alba, blue and white, are trailers,
and where they succeed they may be used in baskets and vases, but they
do not thrive in very dry soil. C. carpatica is probably the most popu-
lar of the dwarfs; it is a plant which throws up a great number of
stems, forming a dense mound of compact growth usually about a foot
high, and when in full flower it is one of the most attractive of hardy
perennials. There are several forms having blue, pale blue, lilac and
white flowers. C. c. turbinata is dwarfer than the type; very suitable
for the front part of an herbaceous border, or for the rockery. C. rotun-
difoHa is rather an attractive species, but as a garden form C. r. Hostii
is an improvement.
CATANANCHE CCERULEA— A plant with grayish green, long, narrow
leaves, and blue or blue and white flowers borne on long slender stalks.
It is of the easiest cultivation, and a desirable herbaceous plant. Sow
seeds late in the Fall and keep indoors; they will germinate very early.
Prick off into boxes and remove to a cold frame when large enough.
CENTAUREA— Of this genus C. cyanus is the Cornflower and C. mos-
chata the Sweet Sultan. Both are annual in* duration. Seeds will ger-
minate in the open ground. C. americana is another good annual species
which is sometimes grown for Summer cut flowers; the color is pale
rose. C. babylonica is a good species to plant in the back part of an
herbaceous border; the foliage is silvery white; flowers thistle-like,
bright yellow. The plant reaches a height of from 6 to 12 feet. Increased
by division during the latter part of March. C. montana is the peren-
nial Cornflower, blooming during the greater part of Summer. There
are forms with lilac, rose, red, white and sulphur colored flowers.
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. I2l
CERASTIUM BIEBERSTEINII— A dwarf plant with a dense mass of
growths; flowers pure white: in bloom during May. The leaves are
very woolly, giving the plant a whitish appearance all the year round.
It stands our hot Summers better even than the well-known C. tomen-
tosum (Snow in Summer.) This is a species with smaller and lighter
colored foliage. Both are used for edging in beds or borders. The
plants may be divided very early in the season with or without roots
and replanted with long stems, deep in the soil, well firmed, and kept
moist until they begin to grow. C. Biebersteinii is easily raised from
seeds. C. grandiflora is a green-leaved species well adapted for growing
in dense carpet-like masses over rocks.
CHEIRANTHUS CHEIRI (Wallflower)— A plant much grown in Europe,
where the climate is very favorable to its perfect development. In the
warmer parts of America its period of blooming is but a short one. The
seeds are sown in April, and as soon as large enough the seedlings are
planted out where they are to flower the following Spring. There are
many fine double forms, some of which have varietal names. Double
flowering kinds can be raised from seed. The colors of the flowers are
yellow, and reddish brown.
CHELIDONIUM MAJUS FLORE=PLENO (Double Celandine)— A reliable
plant for half-shaded positions in woods. It is especially at home
among damp rocks, growing in vegetable humus. In such positions it
will reproduce itself from seeds. The double form is smaller growing
than the single-flowered plant. The foliage of both has a bright green
appearance for the^greater part of the Summer.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
For nearly ten months out of the twelve Chrysanthemums are so
little seen that when the flowers are in season they are eagerly welcomed
by the flower-buying public as a change from the blossoms of Spring
and Summer. There may be a change from the stiff and artificial look-
ing flower, which is grown on single stems, to the more natural looking
spray with smaller flowers; but it is safe to say that the Queen of
Autumn will remain popular in some shape or other for a long time to
come. Within the last ten years the cutlivation of this flower has made
rapid strides. The size of the blooms is due to this improved cultiva-
tion quite as much as to an improvement in the varieties by selection of
sports and cross breeding during that time. Many good kinds have
been raised, but these kinds, when grown according to old methods, do
not show the wonderful improvement that is claimed for them. Indoor
bench culture and growing one flower to a plant is the means by which
the flowers are developed to their utmost size.
Stock Plants— Selected roots for this purpose should be heeled in on
the bench of a house where they can be kept cool; a temperature high
enough to keep out frost is best. If such accommodation can not be
spared the next best place is a frame around which stable bedding is
122 BARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
banked up level with the sash. Give abundance of ventilation in favor-
able weather and cover the sash when there is danger to the plants from
frost.
Propagating for General Crop — The ideal months for this operation
are April and May, as then the cuttings are in good condition and the
temperature is not too high to make the operation a difficult one. For
cutting material the moderately thick shoots should be chosen, avoid-
ing those which are very succulent, or those which are weak and show
long spaces between the leaf joints. The short, stocky, soft growths are
best, and should be preferred to all others. The early-flowered kinds
should be given attention first. Put the cuttings in the sand bed, and
during the rooting process a high temperature with a stagnant atmos-
phere should be avoided. When the roots are from one-half to three-
quarters of an inch long the cuttings should be potted, as their roots
weaken by a longer stay in the sand. Put in thumb pots, using soil a
little lighter than the regular potting compost and obtained by adding
a small quantity of leaf soil. In this stage keep them in the same tem-
perature as that in which they were rooted until their roots show
through the ball of soil. They should then be removed to a cold frame,
standing them on a bottom of sifted ashes. As soon as the plants show
signs of needing a shift they should be put iu 3-inch pots, and as a pre-
caution against hardening of the stems they should be plunged in the
ashes, and during excessively warm weather some leaf soil should be
thrown over the tops of the pots to help in keeping the roots cool.
Planting may be proceeded with by the beginning of June for the early
flowering varieties, taking care that the plants are well watered before
being knocked out of their pots.
Late Flowering Plants— To extend the season of some of the latest
flowering varieties till Christmas the cuttings should be taken late, and
as soon as rooted keep them in a growing condition to prevent the
wood getting hard. Growing points of previously potted cuttings make
good wood, if they can be kept from wilting during the rooting process;
but this operation is somewhat difficult after the middle of July. Too
much shade will cause damping and too little favors wilting, so close
observation will be necessary to hit the exact conditions. The single-
leaf cuttings are easiest to root at this season. If the sand be rough
grained and free from foreign material, have the leaf with the under sur-
face lying flat on the sand. Keep the plants shaded for some time after
they are planted out. Very short stems are only avoided by supplying
conditions favorable to growth.
Selecting the Bud — There are two kinds of buds, known as "crown"
and "terminal." Thecrowubud appears directly on the end of theshoot,
and is naturally the first seen. In some varieties, particularly the early
ones, this is the proper bud to select to develop into a flower, but in
some well-known kinds growers do not agree as to which is the proper
bud to select. There is no doubt, however, that with some soils, also
under certain cultural methods, the proper bud to " take" under those
conditions would be the wrong one under others. The terminal bud
shoots are usually three in number and develop from the axils of the
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 123
leaves below the crown bud. One of these bud shoots is allowed to
remain when a terminal bud is selected, and the other two pinched off
together with the crown bud. The terminal bud is the one selected in
the large majority of varieties; it consists of the end bud, or that which
terminates the selected lateral shoot. Other buds will, in course of time,
appear in the axils of the leaves of this shoot; these must also be
removed.
Specimen Plants— These are not grown so much as they were a few
years ago, owing to the demand for pot plants beyond a certain size
being very limited. Plants which can be sold at a moderate figure give
the best results, and for this purpose they can be grown with very little
attention, compared with pot-grown specimens, if they be planted out
in the field, and attention given them occasionally during dry weather
with water and the cultivator. Pinch to produce bushy plants. The
number of times that pinching should be done must be governed by the
kind of plant wanted; if only a few stems one pinching may be sufficient.
In September the plants should be transferred to suitable sized pots. If
protected from the sun and given a moist atmosphere for a few days
after the transfer they will show no bad results. Plants for pots are
also grown on benches which have been occupied during the Winter by
Carnations. They are lifted and potted in time so as not to interfere
with the housing of field-grown plants of Carnations. In either case
May is early enough to start the plants. Specimen plants of the largest
size are started from cuttings as early as December, and from that time
on till the end of January. The cuttings should be fairly strong, and
either put separately in thumb pots or rooted in the sand bed. The
plants must never be allowed to go to rest, and should be kept in healthy
vigor from the start. During the Winter a position near the glass, in a
house running north and south, suits them well. The best plants are
grown in the house from start to finish; but in this case they take a
large amount of space.
Soil— The Chrysanthemum is not fastidious as to soil, but being a
gross feeder at least one-fourth of the bulk of the soil should be of well-
rotted cow manure, the remainder, loam. Four or five inches in depth
for benches is sufficient, and before the plants are put in position it is
made firm by tramping, or, in the case of side benches, by pounding
with a brick. If the soil is dry, give a good watering a day or two be-
fore planting. Syringing should be practiced several times daily while
the plants are growing; this, together with full ventilation, will provide
perfect atmospheric conditions. Watering should not be overdone at
any time; the condition of the surface soil will readily suggest when the
operation is necessary.
Ventilation— This is a very essential item in the cultivation of the
Chrysanthemum indoors. To one unacquainted with the exact atmos-
pheric conditions under which the best flowers are grown in a green-
house, it would seem somewhat strange that a hardy herbaceous plant
should be cooped up in a hothouse all Summer; but this is far from being
the case, because with abundant ventilation top and bottom, and fre-
quent syringing, the house is kept in a more favorable state for their
124 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
growth than one would imagine; and in the absence of sun the condi-
tions are much more favorable than outdoors. If there are no means of
side ventilation provided, panes of glass should be removed to let in all
the air possible. The doors should also be kept open.
Insects— The number of kinds which are troublesome are small, but
their representatives are numerous enough. There are several species of
Aphis, which attack the young shoots; these pests must be combated
with tobacco in any of its forms. Grasshoppers are also troublesome,
and they must be attended to individually. Caterpillars are best pre-
vented from appearing by catching the perfect insects in the shape of
moths and butterflies as they appear in the house. When the eggs hatch
hand picking is the only efficacious means of ridding the plants of the
caterpillars.
Types or Races— The varieties common in gardens are divided into nu-
merous types. The principal ones are as follows: Anemone Type; this
has the flowers single (all Chrysanthemums have single flowers, but the
so-called single flowers have the outer florets as they grow in a natural
state; that is, having long strap-shaped or tubular florets, usually called
ray florets; the inner ones are shorter, more or less bell-shaped, yellow
in color, and are known as disc florets), with the disc florets raised in
the center. They are regarded more as ornamental garden plants. The
Pompon Type is not grown to the same extent in America as in Europe,
where they are principally used out-of-doors for early flowering. The
Chinese Incurved Type is much grown as a flowering plant indoors.
The florets curl gradually toward the center of the flower, forming a
globular head. The Japanese Incurved Type is less incurved than the
preceding, but few authorities agree as to where the line should be
drawn. The Reflexed Type, as commonly understood, has the florets
pointing away from the center of the flower head, or, as the word would
indicate, curled in the opposite direction to those of the incurved varie-
ties. The Japanese Types include the tubular and quilled varieties, but
the boundaries of this type are also continually shifting.
Varieties— It would be useless to recommend a list for any particular
locality. Soils differ to such an extent that those which thrive in one
place may not turn out the same in another. Again, much depends on
the customers as to predilection in color, etc. Careful observation will
quickly suggest the best kinds to grow. Cultivators are usually loath
to discard a good sort, even though it is an old one. Many of the kinds
grown in England to-day originated 20 years ago; and in this country
many growers could not fill the places occupied by some of the kinds
they grew, which were raised early in the nineties.
Raising New Varieties— There is nothing to hinder anyone from rais-
ing new varieties. The operation is of the simplest, and may be accom-
plished as successfully by the beginner as by those who have been
engaged at it for years. Seedling raising is simply chance work. To
go about the work take two good flowers of the same color, which for
some reason are desirable to blend, shorten the ray florets so as to have
the stigmas readily accessible. Transfer the pollen from the anthers of
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 125
one flower to the stigma of the other. Carefully keep them in a dry
atmosphere until the seeds are ripe. Keep the seeds in paper, properly
labeled as to parentage, then about the middle of March they can be
sown. The resulting seedlings will be almost certain to give some
flowers passably good, probably some as good as the parents, and pos-
sibly some even better. A great deal depends upon selecting the parents;
but rules for this cannot be laid down, as the selection of apparently
unpromising parents will sometimes give good results, showing tha :
the crossing of plants is little more than guess work.
Other Species of Chrysanthemum well worth growing are C. ullgino-
sum, a tall growing plant, with large white flowers; very useful for cut-
ting. It blooms late and must have a deeply worked, rich, moist soil to
bring the flowers to perfection. If planted in dry soil it remains dwarf
and unattractive. C. coccineum is better known as Pyrethrum roseum;
an early Summer blooming species, well worthy of extended culture.
Hundreds of varieties of it are in cultivation. It is not a difl3cult plant
to manage, thriving in well-drained borders; or on rockwork the plants
are thoroughly at home. They are well suited for providing flowers for
cutting. There are double forms in white, pink, carmine, rose, lilac and
yellow. They are increased in Spring by dividing the plants into small
pieces, and rooting in the sand bed of a cool house before potting. C.
leucanthemum is the Ox-eye Daisy of the meadows. C. parthenifolium
aureum is the Golden Feather, used in filling beds or for borders in Sum-
mer. It is a hardy plant, putting on its gayest colors early in the sea-
son; but it is more satisfactory when raised annually from seeds.
CLEriATIS— During July and August one of the most useful plants for
producing white flowers is the herbaceous Clematis known as C. recta.
It grows from 2 to 3 feet high and if in deep rich soil the quantity of
flowers to a plant is very large. In C. tubulosa and C. Davidiana we
have two blue-flowered species from China. The last named is fragrant.
They are reliable plants for the herbaceous border, growing about 2 feet
high. They are all increased from seeds sown as soon as gathered; also
from division of the crowns, and by cuttings taken from the plants be-
fore coming into flower.
COREOPSIS— C. lanceolata and C. grandiflora are yellow-flowered
composites, much used for Summer cut flowers. Old plants may be
divided, but they are best raised from seeds, and the young plants put
out early where they are to bloom. C. verticillata is of little service for
cutting, but owing to the finely divided foliage it is a desirable border
plant. Easily increased by division.
DELPHINlUn (Larkspur)— The species are numerous, most of them
being choice border perennials requiring deep, rich soil. They are propa-
gated principally by cuttings of the young growths in early Spring from
seeds sown about the beginning of March, and by division of the roots
when dormant in Autumn or late Winter. D. grandiflorum and D.
formosum have numerous fine varieties, which are much grown for cut
flowers.
126 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
DIANTHUS— Carnation Pink.
There are nearly a hundred distinct species, many of which are in cul-
tivation. Most of them are desirable as border or rockery plants. They
usually make dense tufts of grassy-like growths. Nearly all have attrac-
tive flowers. D. alpinus and D. glacialis are true Alpine plants, seldom
seen in cultivation, and thriving indifferently. D. barbatus is the Sweet
William. There are innumerable forms in cultivation. Good strains are
secured from seed. D. c^esius (Cheddar Pink) stands our hot Summers
well— a useful speciesfor the rockery. D. deltoides and D.d.alba (Maiden
Pink), should be raised indoors during the Autumn months and planted
out early. A very free blooming species, D. petraeus (Rock Pink), grows
about 6 inches high. D. plumarius is the parent of the garden Pinks, of
which there are many named double sorts in cultivation. They are prop-
agated by cuttings taken in the Fall; they root very readily in cold
frames. Care must be taken to plant them out before they start into
growth in the Spring. C. chinensis, the Chinese Pink, is a biennial, and
to have it at its best it should be treated as such instead of as an annual.
When sown in Spring the plants will flower during Summer, but not
nearly as abundantly as from Autumn-raised plants. The varieties from
this species are numerous; all of the kinds are desirable, making very
handsome border plants of moderate size.
DIANTHUS CARYOPHYLLUS.
This is the species from which the Carnation of to-day has sprung.
Variation in the flowers, the result of continuous cultivation under arti-
ficial and highly favorable circumstances, produced in the first place,
well marked varieties; these variations were perpetuated by cuttings,
and from them by means of cross-breeding and from sports distinct
races have been evolved, gradually showing a wider range of color and
habit. In America the climatic conditions are peculiarly favorable for
the 'development of the flower under glass, and little by little a race has
been obtained perfectly adapted to Winter production of bloom. Not
many years have elapsed since the best cultivators of plants would have
predicted a short life for the Carnation raised under glass, and this
would probably be the case were its entire life, or rather the lives of
several generations, spent in this way. But the utmost vigor in imparted
to the plants shortly after the cutting stage is passed by their cultiva-
tion out-of-doors for the best part of the Summer. Another very favora-
ble means, which is without doubt highly instrumental in maintaining
and strengthening the vigor of the race, is the raising of new varieties
from seed. The development of the wonderful blooms of to-day, as rep-
resented in such varieties as Ethel Crocker, Mrs. Lawson, Genevieve
Lord, Mrs. George M. Bradt, Jubilee, White Cloud and others too numer-
ous to mention, dates back only a very few years, when the blooms
were of very ordinary dimensions, stems weak and calyx often imperfect.
Cultivation and environment have undoubtedly to be credited with part
of the success attained, but judicious selection and rejection are the pri-
mary agents which have been instrumental in producing those results.
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS, 127
Propagating House and Benches— The ideal propagating house is the
north part of a span-roofed house, with a partition of boards, leaving
a space of about 4l^ feet available for bench and passage way. The
latter need only be wide enough for one to move about in comfortably.
The floor should be made of concrete, so that it can be kept scrupulously
clean at all times. The length of the house should, of course, vary with
the needs of the establishment. The bench should run close up to the
side of the house and the front part, or that nearest the passageway,
nailed up with boards, with a swinging door on leather hinges every
few feet to increase or diminish the temperature of the sand by allowing
heat to escape. It is a good plan to have one of the ends hotter than
the other, not necessarily for Carnations, but for cuttings of other
plants. Valves should be so arranged in the heating pipes of this part
of the establishment that the heat may be under perfect control to suit
the various uses to which it may be put. When a specially constructed
propagating house is not available, a part of an ordinary growing
house, preferably the north side, should be selected for the purpose. The
conditions favorable to the process of rooting are: Sufficient humidity
to prevent the cuttings from wilting, and protection against the sun's
rays, which cause an evaporation of moisture from the leaves of the
cuttings greater than can be spared, owing to the inability of the cut-
ting to replace the loss quickly from the moisture in the sand.
Sand — When there is a choice, a rather large grained sand and one free
from all impurities should be selected; from 3 to 4 inches deep will be
sufficient.
Cuttings— These may be put in any time during the Winter months,
but February is the safest time for the ordinary crop. Those rooted
previous to that month are apt to put on a spindling growth, owing
to root accommodation being necessarily of an unfavorable nature.
Restricted root room has a tendency to promote hardening of the stem
and firmness in the foliage, and while the Carnation is in reality an ever-
green shrub, it is a soft wooded one, and should be kept in a growing
state from the cutting to the flowering plant. The cuttings are usually
pulled from the plant; this is the worst possible method, because the
exceedingly dehcate vessels in the immediate neighborhood of the break
are strained and displaced, according to the tension exerted in severing.
They strike all right, evidently so, but they should be severed with a
knife.
flaterial for Cuttings — In this as in other matters, judicious selection
of the material to form future plants will go a long way in determining
whether these plants will attain the maximum state in healthy vigor,
combined with flower productiveness. It does not take a very exijeri-
enced Carnationist to tell at a glance whether the growths are flabby,
as a result of being forced in too high and humid an atmosphere, or crisp
and stocky, owing to having been subjected to favorable conditions.
Grassy growths at the base of the plant are avoided, as they show a
tendency to perpetuate this condition to a degree unfavorable to florifer-
ousness. As the extra floriferous nature of a single branch of a tree or
shrub can be perpetuated by propagating from that branch, in like man-
128 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
ner the best material for cuttings is formed on the flowering branches of
the Carnation. They are found in the axils of the older leaves, and
should be taken when they are from two 2 to 3 inches long.
Treatment During Rooting— The leaves of the cuttings are sometimes
shortened back at the tips, but this is immaterial, and the practice has
arisen probably through a desire to have the batch look uniform in size
and to economize space. Each cutting should be dibbled in by itself, to
insure perfect rooting conditions; but by making a cut in the sand with
a small, flat trowel, guided by a narrow strip of wood placed and held
firmly against the last row of cuttings (this precaution will prevent the
loosening of the sand next the cuttings by the action of the trowel), the
operation is hastened. The temperature should be from 50 to 55 de-
grees at first, increasing to 60 degrees later on. After rooting has com-
menced examine the cuttings so that potting or boxing may be completed
before the roots get weak in the sand. It may safely be commenced,
when the roots are three-quarters of an inch long, and finished before
they are over I14 inches. After the cuttings are potted, or boxed, keep
them shaded for a time, gradually giving them the benefit of full sun-
shine and an abundance of air. Before planting out time they should be
removed to a cool frame. The soil may be made up of loam, leaf mould
and sand.
Planting in the Field— In this locahty the plants are safe out in the
field by the end of March, but climatic conditions are the only safe guide
for different localities. The ground is previously prepared by manuring,
and plowing and harrowing, and the^ plants set out 15 inches apart
each way, or 15 inches apart and 3 feet between the rows, according to
the method of cultivating. Let the plants be in the ground some time
before getting their first pinching. Cultivating must be assiduously
practiced during their stay in the field. It serves three purposes: Keeps
the roots cool, prevents loss of water by evaporation, and discourages
the growth of weeds. Flower shoots are nipped out as soon as they
appear until the plants have made suflacient growth, or a short time
before they are removed to their flowering quarters.
Lifting and Planting — This is done at different seasons, sometimes
early, but usually in September. In some soils it is difficult to lift with
a ball; in others, easy. Some growers shake the soil from the roots,
no matter in what soil plants have been grown. As the Carnation is
rapid in forming feeding roots it is easy to understand why it is desirable
to have the roots entirely in the most favorable soil, such as that with
which the benches should be filled; but the safer and more logical
method is to have a moderate amount of soil accompanying the roots
from the field to the bench. When the plants are lifted without soil
clinging to the roots they should be protected from the drying influence
of the atmosphere as much as possible. As soon as lifted place them in
a receptacle, from which they do not have to be removed until they are
planted in the bench soil. Put the roots about the same depth in the
bench as they were in the soil from which they were taken; make mod-
erately firm; water well and shade for the first few days. Use a shade
which is easily removed. A solution of freshly mixed Indurine may be
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 129
applied with a garden syringe; test It before applying to ascertain if it
comes off easily, as it sometimes sticks on longer than wanted.
Soil — This should be of a friable loam, mixed thoroughly some time in
advance of using with one-fifth of its bulk of rotted stable manure. The
depth of soil may be from 4 to 5 inches. The plants are given space
according to the variety. In this connection it may be stated that a
good place to look for the kind of flower common 25 years ago is on a
bench the soil of which is completely hidden by the plants. As much
light as possible should be admitted to all parts of the plant, and it is
as important that air should have free circulation among the plants.
Supports — The different methods are getting to be about as numerous
as the varieties of Carnations. A good circular wire support should be
easy to apply, easily removed and stored, give the minimum amount
of shade to the plants and be moderate in cost. Several of the designs
on the market are satisfactory in all of the above particulars, excepting
the cost, which, while as low as one could expect, is the only hindrance
to their use.
Temperature— A minimum temperature of 50 degrees, rising during
the day to G5 degrees, will be found the proper range for the best results.
The humidity of the atmosphere must be greatest immediately after the
plants are benched to induce the formation of new feeding roots, gradu-
ally reducing it when the plants show signs of having become estab-
lished.
Syringing— In dull weather there is usually enough moisture in the
atmosphere for the needs of the plants, so far as atmospheric conditions
are concerned. In bright, sunny weather, syringing should, of course,
be more frequently practiced. No rules can be laid down for this, how-
ever, as much depends upon the nature of the floor of the house in the
quantity of moisture it gives off, together with the condition of the
bench soil. If the atmosphere be too dry, combined with dryness at the
roots, the foliage suffers to a certain extent, producing conditions
favorable for the attacks of red spider, aphides and fungoid diseases.
To strike the happy medium good judgment as the result of close obser-
vation will be necessary.
Feeding — The plants by their behavior will suggest the necessity for
this. When manure is given in the liquid state it should be weak and
applied often rather than in strong doses at long intervals. Top-dress-
ing with manures and fertilizers should be made the subject of careful
experiment. It is not safe to follow given rules, as what may suit some
soils will not act the same way with others.
Disbudding — The lateral buds should be removed as soon as they are
large enough to be handled. If allowed to develop, they are simply a
drain on the resources of the terminal bud; and, although they look
well with the flower, still large flowers without them bring higher
prices.
Ventilation is of primary importance at all times. The houses ought
to be closed only when the outside temperature is too.Iow to permit of
airing.
130 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
Varieties — The best varieties to grow in any one place cannot be
pointed out except by experiment, as tiiere is no variety wliich does
equally well in all soils. When once the best sorts for any particular
soil are selected they should not be discarded until new and improved
or other kinds have been tested for at least a season.
Carnations to Follow Chrysanthemums — Where Chrysanthemums are
grown in large numbers on benches it is sometimes difficult to decide
what should occupy the space vacated by them. Carnations have been
tried with successful results. Boxes with easily removed sides and ends
are placed close together in the field, filled with suitable soil, and the
plants, six or eight, according to the width of the bench, put out in each
box. On the approach of unfavorable weather the plants are given the
protection of a frame until the indoor space is ready for them. The bot-
toms of the boxes are of stout material, and when placed side by side
on the frame work of the bench they maj' either be laid on the old bench
boards or take their place. Soil is added after they are in position, to
make the surface level. If necessary, rested roses may be substituted
for Carnations. Souvenir du President Carnot and Kaiserin Augusta
Victoria give good satisfaction by this method.
MARGUERITE CARNATIONS— These were introduced about eight
years ago as Summer flowering Carnations. They are very free in
blooming, fragrant, and quite varied in color. To have an early crop
of flowers seedlings may be wintered in frames, and another sowing
made early in March. In most places they may be safely put out in
April.
DICENTRA SPECTABILIS (Bleeding Heart).— One of the most beauti-
ful herbaceous plants in cultivation, flowering usually in May, splendidly
adapted for forcing. It is one of the first plants to push its growths
above the soil. In some localities it is apt to suffer from late frosts.
The time for propagating is just before the plant starts into growth.
Division of the crowns is the most reliable method. Dig up the plants,
savmg every root; wash free of soil and preserve every piece of the plant
having a bud. Those pieces of the roots which are not necessary to the
buds should be cut into lengths of about 3 inches and put in boxes, keep-
ing them uniformly moist. While they will not all grow, a certain pro-
portion of them will pay for the labor. The divided pieces may be potted
or boxed, according to fancy, using sandy soil to induce a good growth.
Pieces of the crown on which there is a number of buds, but not enough
roots to warrant further division, may be gently forced into growth,
and when the young shoots are of sufficient length, taken off and rooted.
D. eximia is not so tall growing as the above named; the leaves are
more finely divided and the flowering period is much longer.
DICTAMNUS FRAXINELLA (Burning Bush)— A good, old-fashioned
border plant, growing 2 feet in height, with spikes of red or white
flowers. The plants should be given a good permanent position, as they
dislike removal. Increased by seed.
DIGITALIS PURPUREA (Foxglove, Witches' Thimbles)— One of the
most stately of hardy perennials. The flowers, which are large and bell-
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 131
shaped, are arranged in very long racemes. The color is usually rose
and white. Although perennial, it is generally treated as a biennial.
Plants are easily raised from seeds.
DODECATHEON (American Cowslip)— D. media, the only species
which I have seen in a wild state, grows in shaded positions, but it
makes most of its growth while the surrounding trees are leafless. The
soil is composed largely of vegetable humus. Most of the species thrive
well, but are not much grown in gardens; this is probably because their
period of bloom is short and the plants are apt to be lost sight of and
neglected when out of bloom. D. Clevelandii and D. Hendersonii are
Californian species of great beauty. Many varieties of hybrid origin are
cultivated in Europe, but they are seldom seen in America. The seeds
should be sown in places where they can remain undisturbed for at least
a year, as after germinating little progress is made the first season
beyond the formation of a root stock.
DORONICUn (Leopard's Bane)— Useful plants, with yellow, daisy-
like flowers, blooming in May. D. plantagineum excelsum is one of the
best. Other good kinds are D. austriacum, D. caucasicum and D. par-
dahanches. They should be increased by division in the Fall.
ERPETION (Viola) RENIFORME— A very dwarf plant, covering the
ground rapidly by means of runners, which are thrown out in great pro-
fusion. It blooms all Summer if given a shaded position on the rockery.
The flowers are small, blue and white; very showy. It will thrive in
any kind of soil if kept slightly moist during dry weather. In the lati-
tude of Washington, D. C, it is perfectly hardy. It is increased by seeds
or by division.
FARFUGIUM GRANDE— This fine Japanese plant is now known as
Senecio Ksempferi aureo-maculata. It is among the best constitutioned
plants for the dwelling house. There is a beautiful kind with white
spotted leaves, which I have only grown for a couple of seasons, but I
suppose it to be as hardy as the yellow spotted one, which, by the way,
has stood outdoors at Washington, D. C, for the last 15 years. Old
plants, with numerous growths, will stand division best in early Spring.
Give the pieces a week in the sand bed previous to potting, in order to
start new roots. They thrive well in a loamy soil, well drained. The
pieces are potted after midsummer in a compost consisting largely of
leaf mould and sand, placed under cover of sash on the approach of cold
weather, to preserve the leaves in a fresh state, and brought indoors
when wanted to bloom.
FATSIA (Aralia) PAPYRIFERA (Rice Paper Plant)— In this latitudethe
plants are annually killed to the ground, but they send up shoots in
Spring from the roots, which grow very rapidly, making very attractive
growths, sometimes 6 feet high, so that it may be treated as an herba-
ceous plant instead of a shrub, which it really is in its native country
and in localities with mild Winters. Its habit of growth resembles to a
certain extent that of the Castor Bean, but the plant is furnished with
leaves and retains them from the ground up all through the season.
Propagation is by pieces of the roots cut into lengths of 2 or 3 inches.
132 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
The operation may be performed any time late in Fall, or very early In
Spring. The roots should be put in boxes of soil and started into
growth in a greenhouse about the beginning of March. When potted
they may be put in a cold frame early.
FERULA COHMUNIS— This plant is grown principally for its very
large, handsome leaves, which are very much divided, giving it a
feathery appearance. The leaves, which are sometimes 5 feet in width
and fully as long, are divided seven times, the leaflets being only one six-
teenth of an inch broad. The flower stalks attain a height of from 6 to
10 feet. It is one of the earliest plants to show above ground, some-
times pushing up the first leaves late in the Fall. After blooming, which
occurs about midsummer, it goes to rest, losing all of its leaves before
the end of July. The seeds, which are ripened in great abundance,
should be sown about the middle of March and encouraged to make all
the growth possible before the resting period.
FRAGARIA INDICA (Rock Strawberry)— The flowers of this species
are bright yellow. The fruit is dark red and produced all through the
Summer and early Fall months. It sometimes increases so rapidly that
it becomes a weed.
FUNKIA (Plantain Lily)— A small genus of very handsome foliage and
flowering plants of the Lily family; most of them are from Japan. There
are numerous garden forms all well worth growing, as they make large
clumps, and the foliage is, in every case, ornamental. All the variegated
forms are well marked, preserving their leaves well all through the sea-
son, and thrive with little attention.
F. ovata has blue or white flowers and large, broad leaves. The va-
riety F, o. marginata has the foliage margined with white. F. lanicifo-
lia, one of the species most frequently met with, has short, narrow
leaves; flowers small, white, with a purplish tinge. This has several
prettily variegated forms. All of the kinds are propagated by division
of t*ie crowns early in the season. If divided to single growths the pieces
should be potted and kept under cover for a time to encourage growth.
They thrive best in heavy, rich, loamy soil.
F. Sieboldiana is a strong-growing species, with large glaucous leaves.
The flowers are white, tinged with lilac — a very desirable species thriving
well in sun or shade.
F. subcordata has very large, pure white flowers on long stalks. The
leaves are light green, but somewhat soft. In places exposed to full
sunshine the foliage is apt to suffer; it should therefore have partial
shade. Blooming late in the season, it is one of the handsomest herba-
ceous plants in cultivation.
QAILLARDIA ARISTATA — There are several handsome flowered varie-
ties in cultivation. They are exceedingly effective border plants. Raised
from seed in August or September.
QALAX APHYLLA — A dwarf evergreen, the leaves of which are much
used by florists in forming backgrounds for floral pieces. It thrives well
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 133
in partial shade in the rockery. Increased by division before growth
begins.
QENTIANA (Gentian)— Although these are among the most beautiful
of hardy plants they will not pay the florist to handle them. With one
or two exceptions the kinds which are so popular in northern Europe
do not succeed in the Middle Atlantic States. Our hot, dry Summers are
against them. G. Andrewsii and G. saponaria are both natives. They
may be planted in half-shaded situations, where their roots will pene-
trate deeply.
QERANIUn SANQUINEUn— This species is about the only satisfac-
tory one in the genus for our hot, dry Summers. For rock work it is
probably the best all-round plant grown. It seldom invades the terri-
tory of other plants, never looks weedy, and is in flower from early till
late. The flowers are solitary, about II/2 inches across, crimson. Prop-
agated by division, or from seed. The plant is quite hardy.
QYPSOPHILA— G. paniculata is grown to a considerable extent for
cutting. The flowers are small, whitish, but produced in great profu-
sion, in large panicles. Increased by seeds. The seedlings must get all
the light possible, as they are very liable to get weak if kept at all
shaded. G. prostrata is a very dwarf species suitable for rock work.
Increased from cuttings in Spring or Fall.
HELIANTHUS (Sunflower)— The perennial species are, for the most
part, useful late blooming plants. In favorable positions some of the
species grow very tall. They are among the easiest plants to increase
by division. H. decapitatus, single flowered, usually grows about 6 feet
high. H. a. multiflorus varies considerably; in some forms the florets
are arranged like those in the anemone-flowered chrysanthemum; other
forms have them of a uniform size. A most useful plant for supplying
cut bloom. H. orgyalis blooms in September. H. rigidus and H. mollis
are both good species.
HELLEBORUS (Christmas Rose)— There are about a dozen species,
with numerous varieties principally of hybrid origin. All of them are
well worth growing because of their early-blooming nature. H. niger is
the true Christmas Rose, which, under favorable conditions, will some-
times flower in December, and in colder parts of the country it comes
into bloom after one or two genial days. H. n. altifolius has flowers
much larger than the type. H. colchicus, a species with deep purple
flowers, blooms early in March. H. orieutalis (the Lenten Rose) has
rose-colored flowers— one of the best in this latitude. Among its many
varieties H. o. guttatus is white flowered with purple-spotted sepals.
Propagation is effected by root division. Seeds of most of them are
freely ripened. If sown as soon as gathered, and kept in a cold frame,
they germinate well; but the seedlings take two or three years to make
flowering plants.
HEMEROCALLIS (Day Lily)— H. fulva, the species so common in
waste places all over the Eastern States, is not a native; but with H.
flava, less commonly seen, it has escaped from cultivation. H. graminea
134 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
is the earliest to bloom, opening during the latter half of May. H.
Dumortieri has orange-yellow flowers tinged with brown. H. Midden-
dorfii is deep golden yellow. The rarer species are successfully raised
from seed sown in Summer as soon as ripe, and the young plants
allowed to remain in the seed boxes until the following Spring, when
they may be planted out in rows to increase in size. The double flowered
and variegated forms of H. fulva should be increased by division. They
are all desirable border plants.
HEUCHERA (Alum Root)— Of this genus there are some twenty species
native of North America, most of which are hardly worth cultivating.
There is one, however, which is rightly considered as being among the
most ornamental of late Spring blooming perennials; this is H. san-
guinea. It has long panicles of reddish pink or white flowers. Large
plants which show signs of v.'eakness should be lifted, divided, and re-
planted. They will need this treatment about oncein two years, as they
are inclined to get weak when they remain long in one place. October
is the best month for dividing. Seeds should be sown during March, in
the greenhouse. The seedlings are quite small at first, and they should
be allowed to make considerable headway before being potted off.
HEPATICA TRILOBA— One of the earliest Spring-flowering plants.
In their native habitats they a-i-e usually found growing on southern
slopes partially shaded by the foliage of trees and shrubs in Summer,
but with the benefit of full sunshine when developing flowers and seeds.
Of the above species the varieties are very numerous, some of them hav-
ing been long under cultivation in European gardens, where they are
highly prized. H. t. rubra is bright red; H. t. alba, white; H. t. cceru-
lea, lilac. There are also double red and double blue varieties, the
former being very common, the latter somewhat scarce. H. angulosa
is a distinct species, with very large, blue flowers. If allowed to remain
in the same position for several years they form very large clumps. Prop-
agation of the varieties is easiest accomplished by division in Autumn.
IBERIS (Candytuft) — The perennial species are in reality dwarf, ever-
green shrubs. They are attractive in appearance all the year round.
They come in bloom the latter part of April and last till the end of May.
There are about half a dozen species and varieties. I. semper virens and
I. s. superba are the best; they grow from 9 to 12 inches high. I. sem-
perflorens is a taller growing species with large, pure white flowers. I.
Tenoreana grows about 6 inches high. It blooms in May; flowers pur-
plish white. I. correiefolia has the flowers in flat, compact heads. I.
gibraltarica is the largest of all; the flowers are white tinged with pink.
It is somewhat straggling in growth. I. g. hybrida Is more compact,
with the flowers at first white, changing to rosy purple. Although most
of the species produce seed freely enough the seedlings are of a straggling
growth for the first season. Much better plants are raised from good-
sized cuttings taken at the end of September, and put in sand, in a cold
propagating frame. If kept close and moist they will root well. The
cuttings, when rooted, should be put in 3-inch pots, and plunged in a
cold frame for the Winter.
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 135
IRIS— A large genus. There are upward of 100 species; the varieties
of some of them are numerous. The genus is divided into two sections.
Id one section, known as Xiphions, the species have tuberous root-
stocks; one or two of them, such as I. reticulata and I. persica, produce
the flowers before the leaves. Most of the species have thick rhizomes,
which creep along the surface of the soil, or a short distance beneath.
To this section most of the very numerous garden varieties belong. They
are known as German Irises, but having been in cultivation for a long
time, it is impossible to tell just from what species some of them have
originated. The species which are commonly included among the Ger-
man Irises are I. neglecta, I. squalens, I. variegata and I. germanica.
Numerous varieties have sprung from each species, and from these there
are evidently many cross breeds. 1. germanica is a handsome species.
I. g. alba is pure white, very early in blooming, and forces well. I. g.
velveteen has dark purple falls and standards. The flowers of the
known varieties of the I. phylla have a white ground, with the margins
marked lavender and purple. Mme. Chereau is a well-known form.
I. plicata is white frilled with blue. The varieties of I. amoena have the
standards usually white and the falls variously marked with violet blue.
In I. variegata the very numerous varieties have the standards yellow;
the falls are of a wide range of color — dark yellow, maroon, dark purple
and crimson brown. The forms of I. squalens have the standards copper-
bronze and fawn colored, and the falls among other colors are maroon,
purple, bronzy-yellow, violet and lavender. I. pallida has lavender
standards, and the falls of the same color shaded with rose. I. p. dal-
matica is a very large and sweetly-scented flower— one of the best in
cultivation; the standards and falls are deep lavender. In the varieties
of I. neglecta the standards range in color from lavender to purple, and
the falls crimson, purple, violet, white and intermediate shades. I.
florentina is almost pure white, and comes into flower from the 15th to
the end of May. I. pumila, a d warf species, is usually out of bloom early
in May; it has many fine varieties. I. cristata is a native of the Eastern
States, and is well adapted for half-shaded places in the rockery. It is
the dwarfest of all the rhizomatous species. I. versicolor and I. pseudo-
acorus, although thriving under conditions which suit most of the gar-
den forms, will do better when the soil is continually moist. I. graminea
and I. sibirica are both worthy of cultivation; they have long, narrow
leaves, and small flowers. I. laevigata, better known as I. Kaempferi,
will also thrive in borders, especially when given a deep mulch of well-
rotted manure; but they show up to better advantage when grown in
fairly moist ground. This species is one of the latest to bloom; it has
many varieties, some of which are very large and showy. The expanded
flowers, when used for cutting, will not stand much handling; but the
buds, when nearly full size, will open out when placed in water; in this
condition they may be shipped long distances.
Propagation — Most of the bulbous species are offered at reasonable
prices by dealers. The rhizomatous species and forms may be rapidly
increased by division. Large masses may be reduced in size and re-
planted early in March without interfering with the crop of flowers. In
dividing into smaller pieces, it is better to wait until the plants have
136 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
completed their growth, when they may be cut in small pieces, heeled in
where they are slightly protected in Winter, and put in permanent posi-
tions in March or April. They will stand a rich soil, but should not be
deeply planted, as they are then liable to decay during wet weather in
Summer and Autumn.
KNIPHOFIA ALOIDES— Better known as Tritoma uvaria (Torch
Lily,) is an old-fashioned, border plant with long, narrow, dark green
leaves and tall spikes of flowers, at first coral red, changing to orange,
and subsequently to a greenish yellow. It is a native of South Africa,
and in localities where the Winters are severe it should, along with the
other species and varieties, be protected by covering the crowns with
half-decayed leaves or stable litter. K. a. maxima has larger flowers.
K. Macowani, is an orange-red flowered species. K. Leichtlinii Is one of
the tallest of the species. There are numerous hybrid forms, all of them
desirable for the herbaceous border. They thrive best in deep rich soil, and
in fully exposed situations. Seedlings of most of the kinds may be
raised, but they are somewhat slow in making flowering plants. Old
specimens are easily divided, and give good-sized pieces to start with.
LEONTOPODIUn ALPINUH (Edelweiss)— Although a native of the
Alps of Switzerland this plant thrives luxuriantly when planted out on
rockwork fully exposed to the sun. Seedlings are best raised in Septem-
ber and wintered in pots, in a cold frame. When planting out put some
flat pieces of stone around the bases of the plants.
LESPEDEZA BICOLOR, also known as Desmodium penduliflorum and
L. Sieboldii. The plant has a shrub-like growth, reaching from 4 to 6
feet in height. The flowers, which are small and pea-shaped, are very
numerously produced in long, pendulous-branched panicles late in the
season. The colors are rose and white. Cuttings taken before the flowers
appear will root freely. They should be kept indoors to encourage
growth before going to rest. Old plants may be divided before starting
into growth.
LINDELOFIA SPECTABILIS — A low-growing borage-wort, with
handsome, bluish-red flowers. It grows 12 to 18 inches high. It is a
very reliable herbaceous plant, quite hardy and stands the sun well. If
seeds are sown latein Summer, the plants will bloom the following season.
LOBELIA— The native species L. cardinalis and L. syphilitica are, in
this latitude, much more satisfactory than any of the gaudy-flowered
forms of L. fulgens and L. splendens. Seedlings should be raised in late
Summer to provide flowering plants the following season. L. cardinalis
is among the handsomest of herbaceous plants; the flowers are bright
scarlet. It must have abundance of water when growing. L. syphi-
litica, a blue flowered species, will succeed well in a drier soil.
LYCHNIS— There are numerous species in this genus which are desira-
ble as border or rockery plants. L. vespertina flore-pleno has large
double white flowers; increased by root cuttings. When sown latein
Autumn and kept indoors, seedlings of L. fulgens and its varieties are in
good condition for planting out by April. The scarlet Lychnis, L. chal-
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 137
cedonica, is a midsummer bloomer; it should be lifted and replanted
every second year. Tiie double kinds are increased by division. The
double flowered variety of L. viscaria has an extended blooming period.
It is an erect-growing plant, usually about a foot high, with rosy red
flowers. Best increased by division in early Spring.
L. coronaria (Agrostemma)— This plant has silvery-gray foliage,
which in itself would be sufficient to insure a place for it in the herba-
ceous border. The flowers, however, are exceedingly showy. The type
has red blossoms. There are varieties with crimson, pink and white
flowers. Seeds should be sown in September; the seedlings pricked off
into boxes and wintered in a cold frame. They should be planted out
very early.
LYSIMACHIA (Loosestrife)— Most of the species are of weedy growth
and increase rapialy. L. nummularia is the Money-wort or Creeping
Jenny; useful as a creeper or for hanging baskets or vases. There is a
beautiful form with yellowish leaves. L. clethroides is a handsome spe-
cies, growing from 2 to 3 feet high; the flowers, which are white, are
arranged in long, drooping spikes. It is readily propagated by division.
LYTHRUM SALICARIA (Purple Loosestrife)— This species grows from
3 to 4 feet high. The flowers are of a rosy-purple color. Increased by
division.
MERTENSIA VIRGINICA (Virginian Cowslip)— There are several
species of Mertensia all worth cultivating, but unfortunately some are
not so easily grown as M. virginica. This is by far the showiest species,
and if the conditions under which it grows in a wild state are imitated,
there will be no diflSculty in its cultivation. In Spring most of its
growth is made without shade — that is, before the trees are in leaf. It is
usually found in damp woods. In this locality its period of blooming is
from April 15 to the middle of May. It grows from 12 to 18 inches high.
The leaves have a slightly glaucous hue; the flowers are arranged in
drooping terminal clusters, reddish-purple in the bud, subsequently
changing in the open flower to a beautiful light blue. It is one of our
handsomest native plants. Propagated by division.
nONARDA (Horse Mint)— These plants, although not averse to
moisture, will thrive in very dry soil. There are several species, and one
or two varieties common in gardens. The best known is M. didyma, a
species with bright scarlet heads of flowers. M. flstulosa has purple
flowers. M. f. alba is pure white. They are in bloom during midsum-
mer, and among the easiest plants to increase by division.
nORINA LONQIFOLIA— A very choice perennial, reaching 2 feet in
height. The flowers are produced in whorls arranged on a long stalk.
The buds are white, changing later to pink and crimson. Seeds of this
species are easily obtainable. When sown in Spring they do not bloom
till the following year.
riYOSOTIS (Forget=me=not)— In this genus there are numerous species,
most of which are of little value. M. dissitiflora and M. sylvatica are
commonly cultivated. Seeds may be sown late in Summer to have
138 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
bushy flowering plants for Spring blooming. Tiiere are blue, white, and
pink forms. In Washington, D. C, they are planted in the Public Gar-
dens, and along with Pansies they bloom during April and May. They
are sometimes effectively used among Hyacinths and TuHps, in well-
protected spots, keeping up a good display of bloom until the time
arrives for filling the beds with their usual Summer occupants.
CENOTHERA (Evening Primrose)— Handsome plants for rock work
or border. (E. Lamarckiana grows to a height of 5 feet; flowers yel-
low. It is biennial induration. (E. Fraseri is a dwarf species suitable for
the rockery. CE. missouriensis has large yellow flowers on trailing stems.
O^. taraxacifolia is a trailer, with very large, pure white flowers, open-
ing at night. Plants come up freely from self-sown seed. ffi. eximia is
a choice dwarf species, with very large white flowers. OE. amoena var.
rubicunda has the flowers deep rose colored; there are several forms.
All of the kinds are raised from seed sown in September.
ONONIS (Restharrow)— O. rotundifolia is a very desirable dwarf,
Bhrub-like plant, with pea-shaped rose colored flowers. Raised from
seed. A native of southern Europe.
ONOSHA STELLULATUM V. TAURICUM— A dwarf, evergreen plant,
forming dense tufts of narrow hairy leaves. The flowers, which are
bright yellow, tubular, and IV2 inches long, are arranged in branching
cymes. The plant is best propagated by seeds, and by cuttings of the
ripened growths taken during the end of September. They must be
rooted cool.
OPHIOPOGON — Dwarf evergreen plants, with grass-like foliage. The
most useful species is O. gracilis; it is used for planting in dense shade
where few other plants thrive. The leaves are narrow; flowers small,
white, followed by beautiful blue berries, which continue on the plant
all Winter. Increased bj- division in Spring. A. Jaburan is a taller spe-
cies; the variegated form is a handsome plant. O. japonicus has also
a variegated form. Both of these are successfully propagated by early
di\Isiou. In this locality they stand the Winters unharmed.
OROBUS (Lathyrus) VERNUS (Bitter Vetch)— This species comes in
bloom during April and lasts only for a short time. The flowers on
opening are purple and blue, the purple changing to blue as the blossoms
mature. Seeds should be sown as soon as ripe. As the plants make
but little headway during the first season, they should be allowed to
remain in the seed pan till the following Spring. There are several
other desirable species, such as O. pannonicus, O. flaccidus and O.
aurantius.
PACHYSANDRA — There are only two species in this genus, both of
which are in cultivation. P. procumbens is a North American plant.
The flowers are very inconspicuous, produced in March and April at the
bases of the stems made the preceding year. In. P. terminalis they are
situated on the ends of the shoots. Both species are evergreen. P. ter-
minalis is of a brighter green than P. pachysandra. They are very use-
ful for planting under trees; are deep-rooting and stand drought well.
Increased by division.
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 139
PAEONIA (Paeony, Peony, or Piony)— This genus is divided into two
sections or sub-genera— Shrubby and Herbaceous— the last-named sec-
tion is subdivided into three groups, with well marked botanical charac-
ters. The double-flowering herbaceous kinds, which bloom during the
latter part of May and in June, are varieties of P. albiflora. There are
hundreds of kinds in cultivation, varying in color from white through
the different shades of pink to deep crimson. Their successful culture
demands a deep and well-manured soil, with a heavy mulching of
manure during the Winter and Spring months. The varieties of the
European Paeonies come into flower several weeks in advance of the
Chinese varieties. P. ofl3cinalis has double rose, red, and pinkish-white
forms. P. paradoxa fimbriata has double purple flowers. P. tenuifolia
flore-pleno bears medium-sized double flowers, bright crimson in color.
The leaves of this species are of a feathery nature. It is one of the most
distinct and handsome Paeonies in cultivation. There are several showy
European species, some of which have numerous single-flowered varie-
ties. They all bloom much earlier than the Chinese Paeonies, and are
useful for the embellishment of the herbaceous border and for cutting.
P. anomala blooms during the first week in May; this sort is sometimes
sold as P. tenuifolia. The leaf divisions are fewer than in that species
and broader. P. a. insignis has crimson flowers. P. arietina is the
earliest species to flower, expanding in this locality by the end of April.
There are about a dozen distinct varieties. P. Witmanniana is another
early bloomer. Of P. ofiicinalis and P. peregrina there are numerous
single-flowered varieties. The Herbaceous Paeonies are increased by
seeds and by division of the crowns. The seeds are sown as soon as ripe,
so that they may germinate the following Spring. They should be
sown in a frame, and allowed to remain for a year before transplanting.
Old plants are best divided in October; except with rare kinds the
divided pieces should be large. Plant deep enough to make certain of
the crowns being well beneath the surface.
PAPAVER (Poppy)— In the Herbaceous section of this popular genus
P. orieutale and its variety P. o. bracteatum are the most important
kinds. There are several forms of each, varying chiefly in the colors of
the flowers. Most of them are of different shades of scarlet, and very
large. The plants, according to variety, vary in height from I1/2 to 3
feet. They bloom during May and June, according to locality. The
stock is best increased by seed. When the capsules show signs of ripen-
ing they should be carefully watched, as they open at the top, and a
slight movement of the atmosphere will displace the seeds. Sow in
boxes soon as ripe, but not too thickly, so as to do away with the
necessity of pricking off — an operation which does not succeed as well
as could be wished. The seedlings will make sufficient headway to pass
the Winter securely in a cold frame. During March bring into a cool
house, and when they show signs of growing pot off into 2l^ or 3-inch
pots, according to size. They should always be planted from pots, as
they do not lift well.
P. nudicaule is a choice species with orange, yellow or white flowers.
The double forms are often used as cut bloom. In the warmer parts of
140 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
the country the plants will succeed fairly well if they be raised from seed
sown during September, and either planted out late or wintered in a
frame and put out very early. In the colder parts plants are freely
raised from self-sown seed. It is a species which dislikes extreme heat.
PENTSTEMON— The garden varieties are the offspring of P. gentia-
noides and P. Cobaea. In localities where climatic conditions are favor-
able they are much prized. In this section they are short-lived, owing
to the extreme heat. There are many extremely handsome species. P.
(Chelone) barbatus and P. b. Torreyi will thrive almost anywhere, as
they cover the ground with dense, short growths. The flowers are pro-
duced in panicles about 3 feet high; they vary in color from light pink
to carmine. The Pentstemons are very easily increased, at almost any
time, by division.
PHLOX — P. subulata (Moss Pink) is the parent of many beautiful
forms extensively used for the edges of borders and for rock work. In
April they are covered with myriads of flowers close to the foliage.
Among the white-flowered forms are P. s. Nelsoni, P. s. aristata and
P. s. nivalis. P. s. Vivid has rose-colored flowers with carmine center.
P. 8. frondosa is a pink variety with dark center. Their propagation is
usually effected by cuttings — a slow method. If the plants are kept sup-
plied with water during September they will emit roots at the bases of
the principal growths, and during October these may be cut up and
heeled in on a sheltered border, potted, or removed to permanent posi-
tions, very early in Spring. Other desirable dwarf species are P. amoena,
P. reptans and P. divaricata. The well-known and deservedly popular
herbaceous Phloxes are divided into two sections, early and late flower-
ing. The flrst or early blooming section is known as P. Buffruticosa,
being varieties of P.glab^rrima suffruticosa. The late blooming section
is known as P. decussata^ and among the species which have contri-
buted varieties are P. maculata and P. paniculata. The varieties are
exceedingly numerous. In recent years some very beautiful forms have
been sent out. They stand well as cut flowers. The plants should be
lifted, divided and replanted every second year, as when they remain
long without removal the panicles are small. Early in March is the
best time for the operation. Cuttings may be taken from the plants as
they start into growth and rooted in a temperature suitable for Carna-
tion cuttings. The growths will be much improved by a heavy mulch-
ing of manure about the crowns during the growing season.
PHYQELIUS CAPENSIS is hardy in places where the mercury does not
fall lower than 10 degrees F. The trouble with this very desirable plant
is that it continues to grow during the Autumn months instead of going
to rest. The growth made at this period, however, furnishes good
material for cuttings, which, if put in the sand bed of a cool house, will
root in a few days. They may be wintered in a cold frame.
PHYSALIS FRANCHETTI— The attractive feature of this plant is the
large red-colored calyx, enclosing a large l)erry of the same color. It is
apt to encroach on other plants, so rapidly do the underground stems
spread.
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 141
PLATYCODON GRANDIFLORUM (Chinese Bellf lower)— An erect grow-
ing plant, with flowers resembling those of the Campanula. P. g.
Mariesii is a variety of dwarfer habit, and bears larger flowers. The
roots are thick and fleshy. Seedlings raised early in Spring sometimes
bloom late the same season.
PRinULA (Primrose)— There are few of the species but what are
worth growing. Many of them, however, are unsuited to the climate
of the Eastern States, it being too cold in Winter and too hot in Sum-
mer. A few of the species and many of their varieties do well. P. vul-
garis and the varieties with double yellow, red, purple, white, and lilac
flowers succeed well if they are given water during the growing period.
They will even stand in almost full sunshine, but they thrive best in half-
shaded spots. All of them are best increased by division very early in
the season. P. elatior is the Oxlip, and what is known as the Cowslip
is P. veris. The Polyanthus is a garden race, said to be a hybrid be-
tween the last-named species and P. vulgaris. The different varieties
are useful for rock work and for borders. A good selection of forms may
be had from seed sown in Spring; but the plants will not bloom until
the second year. Some of the Himalayan species do fairly well in this
latitude if given a position shaded from sun in Winter and mulched in
Summer. P. denticulata and its forms are among the best. P. sikki-
mensis should be tried in damp, shady ground by the margins of lakes.
P. cortusoides Sieboldii produces pure white, crimson and lilac colored
flowers; very useful for cutting. The plants have creeping root stocks,
and thrive best when protected by a frame in Winter. In the Fall those
plants which are to remain in the open during Winter should be gone
over, and those which have their crowns above the surface of the soil
lifted and replanted, so that the roots may be protected.
RUDBECKIA (Conef lower)— Nearly all of the species are worthy of a
place in the herbaceous border. A few of them are valuable for supply-
ing cut flowers. R. speciosa(R. Newmanni) grows from 2 to 3 feet high;
the color of the outer florets is orange-yellow, while those in the center
are almost black. R. maxima is a much taller species, valuable for cut-
ting. R. laciniata attains a height of 4 feet. The variety known as
Golden Glow has large double yellow flowers; the best of all for cutting.
R. purpurea (Echinacea purpurea) has purple florets. Some of the spe-
cies are easily raised from seeds, but most of them may be divided freely
if the work is done before they make much growth in Spring.
SALVIA PRATENSIS— This species has very long spikes of flowers in
bright blue, rose, and white. They flower in May, and are exceedingly
attractive. They all seed freely, and if sown early in the Fall, will
bloom the following Spring. S. azurea and S. a. grandiflora are tall-
growing species, with blue flowers. They are easily increased from cut-
tings in the Fall months.
SANGUINARIA CANADENSIS (Blood Root)— A dwarf-growing native
plant that, in sunny positions, is one of the earliest to open its flowers,
which are pure white, about 2 inches across. It is increased from seeds
and by division.
142 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
SANTOLINA INCANA (Cotton Lavender) is a dwarf, shrubby plant
with silvery-white fragrant foliage. It will thrive in almost any posi-
tion with very little attention. Cuttings should be put in during the
first half of October; they will root in a cold frame.
SAPONARIA OFFICINALIS (Bouncing Bet.)— Naturalized over a wide
area in the United States. The flowers are usually double. S. ocy-
moides is one of the best rockwork trailers. It passes the Winter with
a mass of short growths near the crown; these, on the approach of
warm weather, grow very fast, subsequently forming wide-spreadiog
masses of light or dark pink flowers. S. o. splendidissima has rosy-
crimson flowers. The plants are in full bloom during the latter part of
May, with scattering flowers for a long time after. Seeds should be
sown in September, and the plants wintered in a frame. Early planting
is necessary.
SARRACENIA (Pitcher Plant)— In the District of Columbia the only
species which does not stand the Winter out-of-doors is S. Drummondii.
S. purpurea is the hardiest of the number when plants are obtained from
Northern sources. They should be planted in a mixture of peat, sand
and moss, and the surface given a coating of moss, which must be kept
damp, especially during the growing season. Pockets of suitable soil
should be made for them at the margins of artificial lakes and ponds.
SAXIFRAQA (Saxifrage)— The extremes of temperature in Summer
and Winter work havoc with the great majority of the species, especially
those of the mossy and encrusted sections. S. peltata, a Californian
species, does grandly where it enjoys moist soil. The leaves are from 1
to 2 feet in length. The plant blooms during the latter part of April.
S. sarmentosa (Aaron's Beard), a Japanese species, has withstood the
Winters here for a long number of years. The foliage is handsome, even
in midwinter. There is a form with the leaves beautifully marked with
creamy-white and red. The section to which S. ligulata belongs has
some exceedingly handsome species, among which are S. purpurascens,
flo .vering in May. S. cordifolia, with bright pink flowers, is frequently
seen here peeping through the snow. S. crassifolia is another early
bloomer. All of them are easy to increase by division.
SCUTELLAR.IA (SkuINCap)- A rather large genus, embracing stove,
greenhouse and hardy species. S. macrantha is one of the best for out-
door use. The stems are at first procumbent, the flower spikes ascend-
ing Our hot, dry Summers suit this plant well. It blooms during
July and August. The flowers are purplish-blue, and are produced in
great abundance. It grows about a foot high. Increased from seed. S.
japonica does equally as well as S. macrantha; the flowers are much
smaller. In S. orientalis the flowers are yellow; the plant grows from
9 inches to 1 foot high.
SEDUM (Stonecrop)— Many of the species differ from each other in
habit; some of them are herbaceous plants. S. spectabile grows 2 feet
high, forming large and neat clumps; flowers pink. S. Maximowiczii is
an erect growing species, about 1 foot in height, with yellow flowers.
S. maximum, a very variable species, sometimes attains a height of 2V^
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 143
feet. S. Sieboldii is quite hardy in this locality; it makes a fine plant
for pots or baskets, but it does not associate well with other plants in
the same receptacle. S. acre, S. a. aureum and S.sexangulare form dense
growths from 2 to 3 inches in height. The yellow flowers are produced
in great abundance about the beginning of June ; their mossy-like growths
are attractive all the year round. S. spurium (S. stoloniferum ) has very
handsome pink flowers, produced sparingly from midsummer till late in
Fall. All of the species named are increased by division.
SEMPERVIVUM (Houseleek)— Dwarf succulent plants, well suited for
dry, exposed positions in the rockery. The hardy species are easily in-
creased by division. S. tectorum is the species commonly grown. S.
arachnoideum has small rosettes of leaves connected at the tips by a
cobweb-like formation. Other well known species are S. californicum,
S. Funckii, S. hirtum and S. soboliferum. They will thrive in almost
any kind of soil.
SILENE (Catchfly)— Among this very large genus there are three per-
ennial species, each one growing only a few inches tall, which are among
our finest rockwork plants. S. Schafta has bright purple flowers; it is
a very deep rooting species, and stands dry weather well, keeping in
bloom for several months. It can be raised from seed; or old plants
divide well in October. Dig up the plant carefully, saving all of the
roots, and in dividing give each piece as much root as possible; put in
pots and keep in a cold frame for the Winter. S. alpestris is a neat
growing little plant with white flowers; easily raised from seeds. S.
maritima forms a dense carpet of growth, the branches from a single
plant covering a large surface. The flowers are white and are rather
showy; they last only a short time, however. The foliage is handsome
for the greater part of the year, being very neat and of a whitish cast.
Seeds ripen in abundance; they should be sown early in September.
SPIR/EA (fleadow Sweet, Goat's Beard)— There are several very
handsome herbaceous plants in this genus; all of them are of easy culti-
vation. They are best increased by division either in Fall or early in
Spring. S. aruncus is a variable species; the plant found in the Eastern
States seems much more dwarf than the one commonly cultivated in
European gardens. To grow this plant to best advantage it should be
given an isolated position. It usually attains a height of from 3 to 6
feet, according to variety. S. astilboides is dwarfer than the above
named; flowers white, borne in dense panicles. S. filipendula is a valu-
able rockwork plant, the finely cut leaves remaining green all the year
round. The flowers, especially those of the double variety, are showy.
S. palmata is without question one of the handsomest flowered herba-
ceous plants in cultivation, but unfortunately other worthless kinds are
often sold for it. The flowers are bright crimson, in large panicles; the
leaves are palmately five to seven-lobed. S. ulmaria (Queen of the
Meadow) has creamy white, very fragrant flowers. The plant grows
from 2 to 4 feet high, and, like all of the others, it delights in damp soil,
with partial shade during midday. They are all best increased by
division.
144 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
STACHYS LANATA (Hedge Nettle)— This plant is a valuable one for
hot, dry situations and for planting under trees. The flowers may be cut
off as they make their appearance, as it is the foliage which is the most
ornamental. The leaves are covered with a wood-like substance, im-
parting a whitish appearance to the plant. Increased by division at
almost any time in Spring.
STATICE (Sea Lavender)— Several species do well here as border
plants. They need sandy soil with a little peat or leaf soil added. S.
elata, S. eximia, S. tatarica augustifolia and S. latifolia are all good
kinds. They are raised from seeds.
TANACETUM VULQARE (Tansy)— There is little in this subject to
recommend it, beyond its habit of keeping green and fresh-looking during
the Summer. It is a favorite cottage garden plant. The flowers and
foliage are very fragrant. The variety with curled leaves is rather orna-
mental. Increased by division.
THYMUS (Thyme) — T. Chamaedrys lanuginosus and T. serpyllum are
well suited for growing in dry and exposed parts of the rockery. They
are low-growing and wide-spreading plants, with small leaves and
flowers. T. s. vulgaris is the Lemon Thyme, a highly fragrant and
ornamental plant, growing from 8 inches to 1 foot high. Well colored
pieces of this should be rooted in Autumn; the other kinds are raised
from seed.
TIARELLA CORDIFOLIA (False Hitrewort)— A native species, well
suited for shady spots in the front part of the herbaceous border, or on
the rockery. It blooms early, and throws out numerous runners after
flowering, providing a ready means of propagation.
TRICYRTIS HIRTA (Japanese Toad=LiIy)— This curious but beautiful
plant is the latest of the hardy herbaceous plants to come in flower with
us. It usually blooms in October and November. During Summer the
foiiage is quite ornamental. The individual flowers, of which there are
many on a stalk, are shaped like those of a lily, only much smaller. The
divisions of the flower are pinkish-white spotted with purple. This sub-
ject should be planted in moist soil, or where a mulch can be given, in
order to preserve the foliage till the blooming period. The plant divides
easily, or cuttings may be made from the flowering stems and put in a
cold frame late in the season.
VALLORADIA (Plumbago) PLUHBAGINOIDES— A hardy species, with
deep blue flowers, growing to a height of one foot. It blooms from July
till freezing weather. Propagation is effected by division. The plants
should be lifted during the first half of September, the shoots shortened
back, and several pieces put together in 4-inch pots, saving as many of
the creeping underground stems as possible. Keep plunged in a cold
frame for the Winter. If a large number of plants is wanted those in
pots may be divided again during the end of April, and each piece put
into a 3 inch pot. They will flower at the proper season if planted out
by the end of May.
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 145
VERBASCUM (Mullein) — V. olympicum is one of the handsomest of a
large number of species. It grows from 4 to 6 feet high. Although a
perennial, it is best treated as a biennial. The seeds should be sown in
August or September. It is a good plant for the back part of a sunny-
border.
VERONICA (Speedwell) — A large genus, including a number of shrubby
species, principally from New Zealand. There are only a few herbaceous
species which are worthy of a place in the garden, as the majority are
of a weedy appearance and last only a very short time in bloom. V.
gentianoides attains a height of 12 inches when in bloom. There is a
handsome variegated form, the flowers of which should be removed, as
this tends to induce growth at the base. V. incana has whitish foliage
and deep blue flowers; it is best raised from seeds. V. amethystina is
one of the best of the tall herbaceous kinds, growing about 18 inches
high. V. taurica, V. Teucrium, V. prostrata and V. satureioides are first-
class rockery plants, which should be increased by division early in the
season.
VINCA (Periwinkle)— V. herbacea loses its foliage in the Fall. In April
it makes short flowering growths, followed later by long vine-like
shoots, which take root at the extremities and form new plants. It
thrives well in full sun. V. minor, the commonest kind, has blue flowers,
also double blue, double purple, single white and variegated leaved
forms. It is much used in planting among shrubbery and for covering
shady spots under trees. It will thrive in almost any position, and
takes possession of the gro'und to the exclusion of most other herbaceous
perennials.
VIOLA (Violet)— V. odorata is the parent of the numerous single and
double forms which are grown for their flowers in Winter and Spring.
Propagation is effected by cuttings and division of the old plants.
From the nature of the species the method of building up a plant from
the cutting, or runner, is the surest way of obtaining free growing,
healthy specimens. The plants send out runners, and those intended for
propagation should be allowed to develop to a certain extent. In the
latter half of February, and during March, they are taken off and either
inserted in the sand bed of a cool house or dibbled in boxes of sand and
kept under conditions favorable to rooting. When rooted they are put
in 2-inch pots. After the roots show on the outside of the ball they are
given a shift into 3-inch pots and placed in cold frames, affording abundant
ventilation and shaded either with naphtha and white lead, or with
lath slats. In this section the plants are given their Winter quarters in
June. They are largely grown in frames from which frost is excluded
by banking the outside with stable litter level with the sash, and run-
ning at least one li/^-inch heating pipe in the front or back part of the
frame. But even under those conditions the flower crop is not continu-
ous during very severe weather. In planting in benches, or beds, the
operation is usually completed by June is. Benches are used with
about 5 inches of soil. Narrow and low-roofed, equal-span houses, run-
ning east and west, with the benches as near the glass as possible, pro-
duce satisfactory results. Houses of the same order running north and
146 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS.
south do not produce as many nor as good blooms during midwinter.
The temperature is safe for the plants as long as frost is excluded, but
10 degrees above the freezing point should be the minimum for continu-
ous flowering. In Winter the teipperature may rise to from 55 to 60
degrees. Airing must be carefully attended to so as to maintain a cool,
dry atmosphere. A hot, moist, stagnant atmosphere supplies perfect
conditions for weak, sickly growth, and is certain to encourage the
development of fungoid diseases. The soil should be loamy, mixed with
at least a sixth of rotted cow manure and a very small quantity of pure
bone meal. After planting the glass is shaded with turpentine or naph-
tha and white lead, allowing full ventilation. Water only when moder-
ately dry. In August, or beginning of September, the plants should
get a shallow mulch of leaf soil mixed with dried horse manure. All
leaves which show the least signs of decay should be removed and
burned. During Summer, syringing should be attended to frequently, for
the purpose of ridding the plants of red spider, their greatest enemy. For
this purpose the water must be applied with considerable force to the
lower surfaces of the leaves. The plants can, however, be kept tolerably
free of this pest if proper growing conditions are supplied, as red spider
is only found on plants which are enfeebled through some cause. When
syringing is to be done it should be attended to in the early part of the
day, and in bright weather, so that ventilation may be relied upon to
dry the foliage before night — a most essential item. For ridding the
plants of aphides, the use of hydrocyanic acid gas is much preferable to
tobacco in any of its forms, as it leaves no objectionable odor.
Leaf Spot— When this, the most dreaded of the fungoid diseases,
appears, the leaves should immediately be picked off and burned, for by
being allowed to continue on the plant the fungus will ripen its spores
and spread to other leaves. It is present more or less in all houses, and
is only kept under control by supplying favorable conditions for the
growth of the plants. When grown outdoors or in frames without pro-
tection the leaves are apt to suffer from too much moisture in the shape
of dew. This condition is very favorable for the increase of spot. There
are several other more or less hurtful fungoid diseases which can only be
guarded against by giving the plants proper treatment, and their rav-
ages curtailed by picking off and burning the infected parts. Very weak
liquid cow manure may be afforded occasionally if the plants are in need
of a stimulant.
Hardy Violas— Among the hardy Violas V. cucculata is the species
most frequently grown in gardens. It often becomes a troublesome
weed, and keeps on producing apetalous flowers long after the long-
stemmed showy blooms are gone, and from the short-stalked apetalous
flowers large capsules of seed follow in almost every instance. V. pedata,
and its forms, are among the earliest of our native species to bloom. V.
blanda has pure white flowers, growing in dense tufts; this species
delights in sandy soil.
147
Hardy Shrubs*
ABGLIA RUPESTRIS (Rock Abelia).— This is one of the most pleasing
and satisfactory of all flowering shrubs. It is not reliably hardy north
of Washington, but for the Southern States it is equally as desirable as
the Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia). In Washington, during the very
severe Winter of 1898 and 1899, the Abeha escaped with only the ends
of the branches killed. It blooms from midsummer till frost. The
flowers are usually to be seen on the plants up to the end of November.
It propagates freely from cuttings put in during October and November.
Select them from the tips of the shoots; make them about 4 inches in
length, put them close together in boxes of sand; place in the coolest
house and shade from bright sunshine. By the beginning of January
the batch should be gone over, as by that time many of the cuttings will
have rooted. Those which have a sufficient number of roots may be put
In thumb pots in the usual way, but in cases where only one or two
roots appear the plants are best placed in the sides of the pots, as in that
position they make roots more freely than when in the center. In a
short time they will have made growth enough tu be shifted into 3-
inch pots, and before the time comes when the houses are crowded with
Spring stock they maybe transferred to the cold frame. This shrub, it
may be added, is one of the very best for planting in cemeteries. Where
the weather is not too severe it is evergreen; grows only to a moderate
height and bears white flowers in gfeat abundance.
ACER PALMATUM and A. JAPONICUM (Japanese Maples).— Most of
the Japanese Maples have very handsomely cut leaves, and especially
during Spring and early Summer they are very highly colored. The
specimens usually seen are from 3 to 8 feet high. The species from
which the varieties have sprung attain a height of 20 feet. All of them
are very hardy, and should be planted in sunny positions so that they
have freedom to develop into symmetrical specimens. They should not
be planted in shade, or even partial shade, on account of losing their
color early in the season. Some of the varieties known as A. palmatum
atropurpureum, A. p. dissectum and A. p. sanguineum set seeds freely
and produce plants like the parents; these seedlings are much more vig-
orous than grafted plants. From old plants of A. palmatum seedlings
are raised on which the finer varieties are grafted. Veneer grafting is
the system most commonly employed.
AMORPHA FRUTICOSA (Bastard Indigo).— A pretty and interesting
shrub. The leaves are pinnate and at a distance have a feathery ap-
pearance. The flowers, arranged in spikes, are very dark purple. It is
propagated by seeds, also by green or hard wood cuttings.
ARALIA JAPONICA (Angelica Tree).— This with A. Mandshurica and
A. spinosa, have very large bipinnate leaves and stout prickly stems.
They are useful for permanent positions where a sub-tropical effect is
desired. They are propagated by taking roots and cutting them into
148 HARDY SHRUBS.
pieces about 3 inches in length, starting them during Spring, in sand or
moss. A. pentaphylla is a dwarf shrub, with small palmate leaves;
does well in shade. It may be increased like the above, or from seeds.
AUCUBA JAPONICA.— A dwarf evergreen shrub belonging to the Dog-
wood family. It is one of the most desirable evergreens for the warmer
parts of the country. While frequently hurt by late frosts in this
locality, it is only the imperfectly ripened ends of the previous season's
shoots which suffer. In the Fall those shoots which are likely to get
hurt make good material for cuttings. They may be made quite large;
pieces 8 or 10 inches long will root easily in the cold propagating house.
The roots emitted from the cuttings are thick and easily broken, and if
left for any length of time in the sand bed, or boxes, after the roots are
about 2 inches long, they are diflScult to handle successfully. Some of
the varieties of this plant are almost as handsome as the Crotons for
decorative work, and as a berry-bearing plant it has not had the atten-
tion it deserves. The sexes are on separate plants. They flower early
in Spring. A branch of the staminate plant, when the pollen is in suita-
ble condition, if carefully shaken over the pistillate flowers on a calm,
sunny day, will almost certainly insure a crop of the large, bright red
berries. In favorable situations the berries last in good condition
through the following Winter. Some of the better known kinds are A. j.
aurea, A. j. albo-variegata, A. j. bicolor, A. j. latimaculata, A. j. macro-
phylla, A. j. ovata, A. j. longifolia, A. j. limbata and A. j. pygmaea
sulphurea.
AZALEA.— The deciduous species and varieties, including the Chinese
species (A. mollis), and the Ghent Azaleas, which are hybrids between A.
pontica, the American species, and A. mollis, are veell-known flowering
shrubs. The species are raised from seeds, and the seedlings are used as
stocks on vs'hich to graft the finer varieties. It does not pay to raise
these plants in small quantities as they are supplied by dealers at low
prices. The evergreen species include the well-known A. indica, several
of the varietias of which are successfully grown out of doors from New
York southward. In Washington some large plants have stood out un-
harmed for over 20 years. A. amcena, an allied species, is probably the
hardiest of this section. The color of the flowers is a rich rosy -crimson.
For pot culture it does not approach in beauty the forms of the Indian
Azalea, but for outdoor planting in the colder sections it is more to be
depended on. The cuttings should be taken about the beginning of No-
vember; at that time numerous strong shoots with small rosettes of
leaves on the ends will be found above the main body of the bush. These
make the best cuttings; lengths of about 4 inches will suffice. They
should be inserted close together in the sand bed of a cool house. The
roots which they emit are exceedingly fine. Previous to potting, if
watered well before lifting, a small quantity of sand will adhere to the
roots. The plants should be potted in the smallest-sized pots, using
finely sifted sandy soil, with*at least half of its bulk leaf mould or peat.
Owing to the low price of imported plants of Indian Azaleas, it is gen-
erally conceded that it is cheaper to buy than to raise plants. This is
no doubt true of the finer and slow growing kinds, which are propagated
HARDY SHRUBS. 149
by grafting on the strong growing varieties, and also on some species
of Rhododendron. This is done in Winter and also when the growth is
ripe later in the year. Some of the strong growing forms, especially
those having single white and red flowers, are, however, hardy, and
for planting out they may be propagated by cuttings. Plants raised in
this way have a more natural appearance than when grown as stand-
ards, in which shape they are usually imported. The cuttings should be
put in the sand of a cool propagating house by the middle of August;
the roots being small will need fine soil of a peaty nature for the first
potting. In this operation use clean thumb pots; put the pots in
water before using so as to absorb as much as possible. Instead of
placing the rooted cutting in the middle of the pot put it at the side;
this will facilitate rooting. At the next potting it is an easy matter to
have the plant in the center of the pot. In planting out-of-doors it must
be remembered that they will not stand drought, so they must not be
left to take care of themselves. The soil should be prepared to a depth
of at least 18 inches. It may consist of loam, leaf mould and sand, in
about equal parts. The plants should be planted moderately close
together so that the foliage will keep the sun from the soil; but to
insure moisture they should always be mulched during Spring and Sum-
mer, and frequently watered during dry spells. Digging, or deep hoeing,
should never be practiced, as the roots are almost certain to be injured
thereby.
BERBERIS THUNBERQI (Barberry).— A Japanese species growing
from 3 to 6 feet high; by far the most ornamental of the deciduous
kinds. It is very symmetrical, seldom needing the aid of the knife to
keep it in shape. It loses its foliage in the late Fall, but during the
Winter and up till the time when the new leaves expand, the bushes
usually present a very pretty appearance from the small but very
numerous fruits. The readiest method of increase is from seeds, which
should be collected when the leaves fall, gently rubbed between the
hands to bruise the covering, and sown in sandy loam, in shallow boxes,
making the soil firm. If placed in the cool greenhouse they will germi-
nate uniformly, and by the end of the first year they should be over a foot
high. This is a species well adapted for ornamental hedge work.
B. vulgaris is the common Barberry. It has rather ornamental yel-
low flowers, in May or June, followed by bright red fruits, which
remain on the bush during Winter. There are numerous varieties; one
named B. v. atropurpurea has purple-colored leaves. B. amurensis var,
japonica and B. sinensis are also good deciduous kinds. Among the
evergreen species B. Fremontii, while tender further North, thrives well
here. It has small glaucous leaves. Increased by Fall cuttings in a cold
frame. B. stenophylla has small, simple leaves. B. (Mahonia) pinnata
thrives here only in sheltered positions. B. (m.) japonica, B. (m.) nepa-
lensis, and B. (m.) aquifolium are all well-known evergreen shrubs,
thriving in this section even in the most exposed positions. The flowers
are produced early in the season, followed by handsome clusters of fruits
which ripen during the latter part of May and June. The plants are
easily raised from seeds.
150 HARDY SHRUBS.
CALLICARPA.— The species of this genus are grown solely on account
of their beautiful fruits, which are quite small, but produced in abun-
dance. The color of the fruit is bright violet. In northern latitudes the
branches are apt to get Winter-killed, but new growths are produced,
and these flower and fruit the same season. C. purpurea and C. Japonica
are the two species most worthy of cultivation. C. japonica is the
hardiest of all the species. Propagation is easiest accomplished by
taking cuttings of the half-ripe wood and rooting them indoors.
CALYCANTHUS (Sweet Scented Shrub).— Of this genus there are four
well-known species— C. occidentalis, C. laevigatus, C. glaucus and C.
floridus. The last named is the most common in gardens, and has
several varieties. They vary in height from 3 to 12 feet; C. occidentalis
being the tallest and also the most tender, sometimes suffers severely
in this locality. All of the species are prized by some on account of the
vinous fragrance of the flowers, which are dark claret in color. C. occi-
dentalis and C. floridus bear seeds freely, which take only a short time in
germinating after being sown. The seeds may be kept in their capsules
during Winter and sown in a frame during the first half of April. The
seed leaves are very large, disturbing the surface soil a good deal in
unfolding, therefore the seed should be sown thinly. The seedlings may
be allowed to remain a year in their germinating quarters before being
transplanted. Plants are also secured by layering the branches.
CARYOPTERIS MASTACANTHUS is unmistakably one of the finest
shrubs introduced in recent years. It was, and is, sometimes called the
Blue Spiraea, but it has no relation' to that genus, as it is a near relative
of the chaste tree (Vitex) which is among those plants comprising the
Verbena family. The Caryopteris has been tried for several years, and
in Northern sections, owing to its being killed to the ground in
Winter, should there be treated more as an herbaceous plant than as a
shrub. In the latitude of Philadelphia and favorable positions further
North it has come out all riglit through recent Winters. In Washington
bushes of it are now 6 feet high. It is one of the last shrubs to come
irto flower, opening out about the first half of September and lasting
several weeks. The flowers are produced in fair-sized heads in the axils
of the leaves on the shoots made during Summer; the color is bluish-
purple or white. Propagation can be carried on at any time during the
Summer or Fall, preferably during the latter season, for which prepara-
tions should be made some time in advance by cutting back some of the
stronger shoots to induce them to send out side shoots. The blind wood
can be used during the flowering period. As soon as the cuttings are
ready for removal from the sand they can either be potted or boxed and
stored in frames for the Winter.
CERASUS LAUROCERASUS.— The Cherry Laurel can be depended upon
as a hardy shrub in ordinarily well-sheltered situations south of Mason
and Dixon's line. In the grounds of the Department of Agriculture and
in Capitol Park many old plants have stood almost unharmed in ex-
posed places for years. The late John Saul, of Washington, D. C, gave
this plant a good deal of attention; during a long number of years he
made a collection of all the varieties to test their hardiness. While some
HARDY SHRUBS. 151
varieties suffered with the thermometer standing at 10 degrees F. three
or four were left untouched. C. latifolia. C. angustfolia and C. eaucasiea
are the hardiest. In situations which induce growth late in Summer, or
late enough not to ripen thoroughly, the growths are almost certain to
get nipped by frost. This species is called" the English Laurel; it is not
native of England, but of the Levant. Propagation is effected by layers
or cuttings, preferably the latter, as they will root in pretty large pieces
— over a foot in length. The rarer varieties should be grafted on stocks
of the common one. Cuttings will succeed any time after the wood is
ripe; a piece of the wood of the preceding year attached will give all the
better results.
CERCIS JAPONICA (Red Bud, Judas Tree).— This species has lighter
colored and larger flowers than either the American or European spe-
cies, C. canadensis and C. siliquastrum. Some of the original plants
brought to this country from Japan are in the parks at Washington,
and seldom does a season pass in which the branches are not completely
hidden by the flowers. I have never seen it ripen seeds, however, and
do not know if it does so in other localities. It takes kindly to layer-
ing. The other species seed very abundantly. C. japonica in this locality
does not grow over 8 feet in height.
CHIMONANTHUS FRAGRANS (Calycanthus praecox).— The flowers of
this shrub are produced on the wood of the previous year's growth long
before the leaves are developed. In this locality it often blooms duriug
the end of January. It is not reliably hardy north of Washington, as
all of our plants were killed to the snow line during the Winter of 1898
and 1899. Previous to that time it had remained unhurt for a long
number of years. It is a trifle slow to increase from cuttings of the
ripened wood, doing better from the half-ripe wood, with the foliage
attached. Large plants are secured in a short period by layering in
midsummer. The species and its variety C. f. grandiflora are grown
solely on account of the wonderful perfume emitted by the rather incon-
spicuous flowers. Cut in the bud state they open out well if kept
indoors with the stems in water.
CHIONANTHUS VIRQINICA (Fringe Tree).— A native shrub sometimes
growing to a height of 30 feet; but specimens will give an abundance
of bloom when only a few feet high. The flowers are disposed in droop-
ing panicles, are pure white in color and very graceful. It is raised from
seed and by budding on stocks of Fraxinus ornus.
CISTUS VILLOSUS.— Plants of this species have survived the past two
Winters in Washington, during which we frequently had zero weather.
For the Southern States, this and other species should be given a trial,
as they are very handsome shrubs, with large white or purple flowers,
somewhat resembling a single rose. Cuttings root freely, under cool
treatment, late in Summer.
CITRUS TRIFOLIATA.— As a dwarfing stock this is used extensively
for budding and grafting the different varieties of oranges, and for a
hedge plant, one that will make an almost impenetrable barrier, scarcely
any other subject will answer so well. But its usefulness is yet by no
152 HARDY SHRUBS.
means exhausted. As an ornamental shrub it makes quite an effective
appearance early in the season, before the leaves appear, when covered
with its pure white flowers, two inches in diameter. In late Summer
and Fall the branches are loaded down with its golden fruit. In the
grounds of the United States Department of Agriculture several old
plants in the fruiting stage attract great attention from Northern
visitors. Its propagation is effected by seeds, of w^hich there is a plentiful
supply; sown in the Fall out-of-doors, every seed will germinate after
good weater sets in. During some seasons this species bears two crops
of flowers— the first in Spring, the second along about the month of
August. The second crop of fruit fails to ripen before cool weather.
CLERODENDRON TRICHOTOMUM.— A very handsome, free-flower-
ing Japanese species, thoroughly hardy in the Middle Atlantic States;
further North, although annually killed to the ground, it makes strong
growths, and on these it blooms freely. The flowers are white with a
dark red calyx. Propagation is accomplished by cutting up and
sprouting the roots. The plant seems to delight in rather dry soil. In
dry weather, when other shrubs suffer for ^want of water, this one is
always fresh and green; but probably this is caused by the roots going
deep into the soil. C. foetidum is not so hardy as the above, but where
the crowns can be saved it will flower splendidly from herbaceous
stems. It is one of the best shrubs for the Southern States. It sends
up many shoots from underground stems. To increase it in quantity
the roots and underground stems should be dug up, cut in small pieces,
and started indoors early in Spring.
CORNUS FLORIDA (Flowering Dogwood).— In the Southern States this
Dogwood grows sometimes 30 to 40 feet high; further North it is a
shrub 10 to 15 feet high. The flowers are small, greenish-yellow; the
bracts are very large and pure white. It blooms in early Spring before
the leaves are developed. In Autumn a well-fruited bush, with its red
foliage, is a most beautiful object. C. f. rubra is a rosy-pink flowered
variety of recent introduction, well worthy of cultivation; both it and
the type should be planted in well-drained situations. They are increased
by budding and grafting on seedlings. C. sanguinea has dark red
branches— a very effective plant among other shrubs. C. candidissima
and C. mas are commonly grown, the former for its flowers, the latter
principally for its fruits.
COTONEASTER MICROPHYLLA is a dense, low-growing, evergreen
shrub, with small leaves and bright red fruits that remain on the plants
the best part of Winter. It is propagated best by taking cuttings,
about 6 inches long, and rooting them indoors in August or September.
C. Simonsii is almost evergreen and perfectly hardy south of New York;
its bright red fruits is the main feature of the plant.
CRAT.^GUS (Hawthorn).— There are numerous American species cul-
tivated as shrubs, or dwarf trees, the best of which are C. coccinea, the
scarlet-fruited Thorn, and C. crus-galli, the Cockspur Thorn. Owing to
their bright red fruits, often remaining a long time after the leaves fall,
they are valuable decorative subjects. C. oxyacantha is the English
Hawthorn; the many kinds grown, and which are known asvarieties of
HARDY SHRUBS. 153
this species, make very symmetrical specimens. Ttiey are more florifer-
ous ttian the American liinds. Some of the best are C. o. alba-plena,
double white; C o. punicea-plena, double scarlet; C. o. bicolor, pink
edged with white; C. o. rosea, pink with white claw. They are increased
by budding or grafting upon seedlings of the type. The seeds do not
germinate until the second year from sowing, consequently they should
be mulched in Summer to prevent drying out.
C. pyracantha is the evergreen Thorn. The fruits are the principal
decorative feature of this shrub; they are of a beautiful scarlet color,
remaining on the branches during Winter. C. p. Lelandi has bright
orange-scarlet fruit — a very ornamental and quick-growing variety.
CRYPTOMERIA JAPONICA (Japan Cedar).— With us this is one of the
most satisfactory of the evergreen coniferae. It looks well in a 5-inch pot,
and from that to a specimen 30 feet high. It varies very much, there
being nearly a dozen well-defined varieties. In the New England States it
is not thoroughly at home as a tree, and this condition is not to be met
with until we get as far South as Maryland. As a pot-grown plant it
is very little inferior to the costly Norfolk Island Pine ( Araucaria ex-
celsa,) and it can be gotten up in quantity at less than one-tenth the
cost of the latter. Cuttings root well if put in by the end of October, in
a cool sand bed. They can be inserted large enough so that by the
middle of May following they will be ready to be shifted into 5-inch
pots. Although plants raised from cuttings make the best furnished
plants for using in pots, seedlings, If grown on without a'check, furnish
plants within a year from sowing, which will not look too small in 5-
inch pots. The seed should be gathered as soon as ripe, which it usually is
about October 15, else there is danger of it being lost through the cones
bursting open, the seed falling out through a little disturbance of the
branches. For sowing, prepare shallow boxes of firmly pressed soil —
loam, leaf mould and sand in equal proportions will suit. Sow the seed,
not too thickly, and cover with half an inch of screened leaf soil and
sand; put near the glass in a temperate house. They will germinate
the first half of January, and can remain in the boxes, if not sown too
thickly, until the end of May. Pot off singly or three in a 3-inch pot at
first, using sandy soil. Keep in a growing temperature until they are
too large for small pots. The plants will stand in cold frames during
the Winter in most places without hurt, other than a slightly yellowish
tinge to the leaves, but where they are wanted to make marketable
plants in as short a time as possible from the seedling stage, they should
be kept in a cool house where, if suitable rooting conditions are provided,
they will make rapid progress during the Winter months.
CYDONIA JAPONICA (Japanese Quince).— The common form will give
good flowering specimens from seed. The finer varieties may be grafted
on seedhngs of the type. Cuttings of the ripe wood taken in the Fall and
stored till Spring are rooted successfully. It is also raised from cuttings
of the roots, from suckers and by layering. There is a form with varie-
gated leaves and pale flowers, also a pure white and double red. They
are among our most desirable hardy shrubs, coming into bloom along
with the Forsythias and Jasminum nudiflorum.
154 BAMDY SBRUBS.
C. Maulei is a much dwarfer species, with reddish flowers produced
in great abundance. C. M. superba has the flowers of a deeper shade of
red. C. M. tricolor has the leaves variegated with pink and white.
DAPHNE CNEORUM.— A hardy dwarf evergreen trailing shrub growing
not more than a foot high. It flowers in April and May; the color is
dull pink. It makes a neat symmetrical plant, with very sweet-scented
flowers. It is rather slow to increase from cuttings. The best method
of propagation is to layer the trailing branches in Spring, making an in-
cision, or tongue, in the under part of the stem. Have the cut part at
least 2 inches under the soil; secure with wooden pegs; press the soil
firmly over it, and cover with sphagnum to insure moisture. Leave
until the following Spring before separating from the parent plant. D.
Blagayana is also a desirable hardy trailing species, not so well known
as the above. D. Mezereum, a hardy deciduous species, Is sometimes
used for forcing, more on account of the fragrant flowers than for their
appearance. It is raised from seed, and its forms grafted on seedhngs of
the type. D. odora, D. o. marginata and D. o. alba make very satisfac-
tory growth in sheltered positions out-of-doors here, but it may be
stated that the plants were imported direct from Japan. I have tried
greenhouse-grown plants in similar situations with unfavorable results.
D. pontica and D. laureola are perfectly hardy here, but they do best with
partial shade in Summer. The last named is scentless.
DEUTZIA SCABRA.— -A very free growing and handsome flowered
shrub from China and Japan. It blooms according to locality in May
and June. In Washington it reaches a height of 8 feet. It blooms on
short growths made on the previous season's wood. D. s. crenata is a
form with smoother leaves than the type. There are several other
varieties with double flowers more or less tinged with rose. D. c. Pride
of Rochester has the flowers large and double white. In the Northern
States they should be planted in protected situations. It is among the
easiest shrubs to propagate. The cuttings are taken after the leaves
f-'ll from the current year's growths; they should be tied in bunches and
heeled in moss ia a cold frame. In early Spring they are put in boxes of
sand, with a little soil at the bottom, and kept in a greenhouse. When
rooted they are hardened off and planted out in rows, where they will
make fair-sized plants before the growing season is over. These plants
make splendid growth in tubs, and are easily forced into bloom for the
decoration of large conservatories. D. gracilis has never been known to
suffer from cold weather in this latitude, and it is said to stand the Win-
ter, when in sheltered positions, in the Northern States. As it blooms
on short growths made on the wood of the previous season, the plant
would be of no service where its branches are apt to get winter-killed.
It is one of the grandest of our dwarf flowering shrubs, blooming in
Washington from the first to the middle of May, and growing from 2 to 3
feet high. It is well suited for planting in cemeteries. For forcing into
bloom, it is an easy subject. The plants may be lifted from the open
ground as late as the weather will permit. They lift with a mass of fine
fibrous roots, and should be potted before getting a chance to dry.
Place them in a deep frame till wanted; put them in heat very gradually
HARDY SHRUBS. 155
else there will be a tendency to have flowers without foliage. This
species is best propagated from green wood cuttings talien shortly after
the plant is done blooming. Dull weather should be chosen for the
operation, as then the cuttings stand an almost certain chance of root-
ing. Make the pieces about 4 inches long; avoid the thick, succulent
growths, taking only those which have most substance to them. Put
closely together in the sand bed of a cool house, or frame, and shade to
prevent wilting. As soon as rooted, put in boxes or small pots until
taken a little with the soil, then plant in rows outside, where they will
make bushy little plants before Autumn. The next year after that in
which they are struck from cuttings will give plants large enough to go
into 6-inch pots for forcing. D. Lemoinei, a hybrid between D. gracilis
and D. parviflora, is also a good subject for forcing. It is quite as free
in rooting as D. gracilis, and, along with D. parviflora, should be treated
in the same manner in the same propagating bed.
DIERVILLA (Weigelia). — D. rosea is the best known of the species; it
blooms in May and June. As it is not particular as to soil or location
the species and its varieties should be in every collection. D. r. flori-
buuda has dark red flowers with whitish stamens — a very prolific
bloomer. D. r. Desboisii has deep rose-colored flowers. D. grandiflora
is a tall growing plant with large leaves and flowers. There are several
varieties with white, red and pink flowers; some of these give scattering
blooms throughout the Summer and Autumn months. D. rosea and its
forms force very easily. In its propagation, cuttings of the dormant
wood root quickly if put in gentle heat about the end of March, or the
growing tips may be used in Summer when kept in a humid atmosphere
during the rooting process.
ERICA (Heath).— These are attractive low-growing shrubs useful for
bordering those ot taller growth. The cuttings taken from the tips of
the current year's growth should be put in during late Summer. Few
florists have just the proper facilities for rooting these and kindred
plants. The structure, a cool frame, should face north and will be all
the better if in the shade of a house. The idea is to have the atmosphere
while rooting as moist and as cool as possible. Erica vagans is au
early kind, as is also E. mediterranea; E. cinerea and E. tetralix are
later in blooming. Calluna vulgaris (Heather), with the double and
white flowered kinds, are all good; they need peaty soil, or loam mixed
with an abundance of leaf mould and sand, and should not be allowed
to get dust dry at the roots while in a young state.
EUONYMUS (Spindle Tree).— Up till within a few years E. japonicus
was among the finest of our evergreen shrubs in this section, but owing
to the ravages of a small scale insect the plant is now comparatively
seldom seen and will only thrive where severe measures are taken to
keep it clear of the pest. Several forms have very handsome variega-
tions; their names are E. j. latifolius-aureus, E. j. aureo-marginatus, E.
j. albo-marginatus, and E. j. latifolius-albus. They bloom about the
end of July and usually ripen large quantities of seeds. The variegated
kinds are propagated by cuttings, put in about the end of October, in a
cool house or frame.
156 HARDY SHRUBS.
E. radicans variegata is usually best known in its place in the shrub-
bery, but it is extensively used for a very different purpose, and that is
as a carpet bedder. For this worli, to fill even a small space, a great
many plants are necessary. In public parks and gardens the same
plants may be used several seasons, or the growing points may be
rooted afresh each Fall. The shoots are collected in bundles of 50 or
100 together, and with a strong knife they are cut to a uniform length
—4 or 5 inches. The lower leaves are stripped and the cuttings put very
thickly together in boxes of sand, and placed in a cool frame, where they
root freely.
EXOCHORDA GRANDIFLORA (Pearl Bush).— The only fault with this
plant is its short blooming season, which is during the month of May,
but it is exceedingly handsome while it lasts. It is a native of China.
Although sent out in the early seventies it is still by no means common,
owing to its propagation by the usual methods being somewhat diffi-
cult. In several localties it has ripened quantities of seed for several
years, and when seed is obtainable no difiiculty is experienced in raising
plants, as the seeds germinate very evenly. Severe pruning, such as this
plant is likely to get from cultivators, on account of the desirable sprays
for cut flowers, evidently works against the setting of seed, for the
specimens which have borne abundant crops of seeds in this locality are
those which have never been touched by the knife. This plant was sent
out under the name of Spiraea grandiflora, which c!ings to it yet in some
places.
FORSYTHIA.— Japanese shrubs, usually covered with bright yellow
flowers very early in Spring. There are two well-known kinds in culti-
vation. F. suspensa has long, drooping branches, while F. viridissima
is more erect in growth. Nothing in the shrub line is easier to increase.
All that is necessary is to cut the previous season's growths into lengths
of 8 or 10 inches and heel them in deeply in a protected piece of ground,
covering during hard weather with leaves or loose litter. November is
the month for this operation. The cuttings will also root in a very
short time, if put in moderate heat in March. Both kinds flower before
the leaves make their appearance, a day or two of warm sunshine being
suflicient to bring them out. The plants should be pruned only after
they are done flowering, as the flowers are produced directly on the
wood made the preceding Summer.
QORDONIA (Loblolly Bay).— These plants thrive in this locality when
given a deep, sandy soil and well supplied with moisture. They produce
their large camellia-like flowers from July till frost. They are propa-
gated by layering, allowing the layers to be well rooted before remov-
ing. G. pubescens and G. lasiantha are the species grown. The last-
named has pure white flowers, about 4 inches in diameter.
HALESIA (Snowdrop Tree).— These shrubs, or small trees, are in full
flower before the leaves are fully developed. In this section H. Meehani
forms a very symmetrical, small-sized tree. H. diptera and H. tetrap-
tera differ from each other in the number of wings to the fruit. All of
the kinds are raised from seeds, which sometimes remain in the ground
HARDY SHRUBS, 157
over a year before germinating. Seedlings of H. tetraptera are used as
stocks for the beautiful flowered Japanese Styrax.
HIBISCUS SYRIACUS (Shrubby Althaea) is a deciduous shrub of easy
cultivation, and needing very little attention after being planted beyond
an occasionally thinning out of the branches. Most of the numerous
varieties are very neat and compact, growing from 5 to 12 feet in height.
They bloom late in the season, when most of the other shrubs are out
of flower. The double-flowered varieties root easily from cuttings of the
dormant wood, in early Spring, or from green wood in Summer. The
cuttings from the ripened wood should be made in the Fall and heeled
in out of the reach of frost in moderately dry sand. They may be put
in rows in the open as soon as weather permits, or they may be rooted
indoors early and planted out later. Several of the single varieties come
true from seed, of which an abundant crop is usually produced. H. s.
totus-albus is a useful single white variety and flowers when very small.
H. s. camelliaeflora is double white, with pink throat. H. s. Boule de
Feu, double, violet colored flowers. Other good double flowered forms
are H. s. Leopoldii flore-pleno, H. s. rubra pleno, H. s. purpurea flore-
pleno and H. s. Jeanne d' Arc.
HYDRANGEA HORTENSIS is the common garden Hydrangea, of
which there are numerous varieties, all of them being hardy in the Dis-
trict of Columbia. Some are cut to the ground during Winter, but they
never get injured permanently. H. h. Lindleyana and H. h. stellata
prolifera usually survive the Winter with the stems several feet above
ground. These plants form very large specimens, and are very
handsome when in bloom, changing in color, as the flowers mature,
from greenish white to a deep rose. The central flowers are fertile, the
outer ones sterile. H. h. japonica has one or two very handsomely
variegated forms. Cuttings of these are apt to lose their leaves in the
sand bed, but in this condition they will root, making young growths
simultaneously with the rooting process; and if they are carefully put in
very small pots they will make fair-sized plants within a year. But
they must be kept in pots during this time, as the roots are much
weaker than those of the green-leaved plants. The variety known as
H. h. aurea-variegata is probably the handsomest of our hardy plants.
H. h. otaksa has large heads of rose-colored flowers. H. h. ramulus-
coccinea has dark colored stems and pink flowers. H. h. Thomas Hogg
has pure white flowers. Cuttings will root any time after the shoots
are moderately firm. Where wood is scarce the large stems may be
split down the middle with a leaf to each piece. Where pruning is neces-
sary it should be done early in the season, to throw vigor into the
shoots springing from the base of the plant.
H. quercifolia, from the Southern States, opens its large pyram-
idal heads of flowers late in the season and is valuable on that account
alone; but the handsome foliage and its spreading, graceful habit com-
bined make it a most desirable shrub. It will thrive either in partial
shade or full sun. In propagating, the smallest of the ripened shoots
should be taken with the leaves attached, placing the stems deep in
the sand bed of the cool propagating house. If put in about the middle
158 HARDY SHRUBS.
of October, most of them will root by the end of February. Suckers,
with small roots attached, may be lifted and potted in Spring. The
most certain method is to layer the lower branches, allowing them to
remain at least a year before removing. Seeds are not always obtaina-
ble, but they germinate readily in sandy soil covered with finely screened
sphagnum.
H. paniculata grandiflora is one of the best of the late blooming
shrubs. The flowers are creamy-white, in large pyramidal heads, ter-
minating the current year's growths. It comes into bloom, according
to locality, from July to September. It is grown both in bush and
standard form. In propagating green cuttings may be taken during
the first part of July. Select a dull day for the operation. Take those
shoots which are not too robust and only the ends; shorten back the
leaves one-third and put in sand,. in a cool, humid atmosphere. Cuttings
of the dormant wood may be made 8 or 10 inches long and inserted,
either in the Fall, or kept heeled in, or buried in a cold frame during
Winter, putting them in rows in the open as soon as weather will per-
mit. Cover thinly with spent hops, or old manure, in either case.
HYPERICUM (St. John's Wort)— H. kalmianum is the species most
commonly seen in cultivation; it thrives in almost any soil and in a
sunny position. H. patulum, a Japanese species, forms a bush from 4
to 6 feet in height, in favorable situations. H. Moserianum is not so
tall as H. patalum, but the flowers are larger; both of them are apt to
be hurt in Winter in exposed situations. Cuttings root quickly at any
time during the Summer months. H. calycinumis one of the handsomest
and most useful of the dwarf evergreen shrubs. It forms dense clumps
of growths, not over a foot high, with very large, bright orange-yellow
flowers; much used for the front portions of shrubberies. Increase is by
division. In parts of the country where the Winters are too severe it is
easily protected by branches of evergreens, or rough stable litter.
ILEX (Holly).— I. aquifolIum,the English Holly, is, unfortunately, ten-
der in the Northern States. Philadelphia is said to be the northern
limit of its hardiness. Around Washington it is perfectly hardy, but it
is much shorter lived than our native species, I. opaca. Except with
comparatively small specimens of the English species on which the fruit
is in larger clusters and brighter colored, the native one is to be pre-
ferred for specimen plants. Several specimens in the parks here are
over 40 feet high, and not much inferior as berry-bearing plants to the
English one. I. opaca is very common in a wild state in the woods
here; but I have never seen what could be termed a presentable plant.
They are generally found in the shade of other trees, conditions which
make them scraggy looking. When grown in the open, in prepared
ground, their appearance is quite altered ; the branches grow close to-
gether, and the outline of the tree is rather conical, not spreading as in
I. aquifolium. Ilex cornuta, from Japan, is a very satisfactory species,
but the berries, of which there is a plentiful supply, do not ripen until
after the time when they would be most welcome. The EngUsh species
takes well on stocks of I. opaca. The operation should be done indoors
either before growth is active in Spring, or after the wood is fairly ripe
HARDY SHRUBS, 159
in August. I. opaca is more difficult to raise from seed than I. aquifo-
lium. A good method is to sow in a mixture of peat and sphagnum
moss, made quite firm, and place in a greenhouse where it will get the
full sun, keeping the mixture moderately wet. Plants grown for their
berries, or, in fact, for any purpose except for hedges, should never be
selected from seedlings, as there are two kinds, one with the female
organs, imperfectly developed, but with the stamens well formed bear-
ing abundance of pollen; they are the most abundant bloomers, but do
not bear fruit. The other kind has fewer flowers, with the pistils all
well formed and quite prominent in the center of the flower. The
stamens on the other hand seem imperfect in most cases, but doubtless
there is enough pollen on them to fertihze the flower, as fruiting plants
set seed all right a long distance away from the pistillate plants. There-
fore, cions should always be selected from berry-bearing plants. There
is a variety of 1. aquifolium with yellow fruit which is desirable. There
are also many kinds with curiously-formed leaves, not so popular here
as they are in Europe. Ilex aquifolium flowers on the growths of the
preceding Summer; I. opaca flowers later, and on the current year's
wood. The outer covering of the seeds of Holly is quite hard, and often
they do not germinate the same season as sown. If sown as soon as
ripe, in very sandy soil, and care taken to keep them from drying out
during the dry months of Summer, they will' germinate the following
Spring. Sow the seed rather deep and cover with a mulching in Win-
ter, which covering is easily removed when freezing weather is past. I.
cornuta, grown in company with varieties of the English species, does
not come true from seed.
I. cornuta. It would be an interesting experiment were some of our
Southern woodsmen to plant the Japanese Holly (Ilex cornuta) for
the sake of its berried branches as a Christmas Holly along with the
English (I. aquifolia) and the native evergreen kinds, I. opaca and
I. cassine. The last named is the prettiest of the three, but both
berries and leaves are small; the berries shrivel up too quickly and
sometimes fall off before they can be used. Ilex cornuta fruits more
freely than any of the other species. In the vicinitv of Washington, by
the middle of December, the berries are only beginning to turn red.
Whether this fault would appear where the flowers expand earlier
in the season I cannot say. A most noticeable feature in connection
with the Japanese plant, the mentioning of which may be of use to
some one some day, is that it bears a much more abundant crop of ber-
ries when male plants of the English species are in the immediate neigh-
borhood. The hardiness of this plant is about the same as that of the
English kinds, probaby a little more tender. I understand it can be
grown as far North as Philadelphia. In Washington it stands the most
severe Winters without hurt, and grows much stronger than the English
species.
ITEA VIRQINICA.— The cultivated form of this is much superior to
plants found in the wild state. It has long racemes of rather pretty-
greenish- white flowers. It may be propagated by division, or from
seeds which ripen freely. It usually grows from 2 to 4 feet high.
160 HARDY SHRUBS.
JASMINUM NUDIFLORUM (Chinese naked flowered Jasmine).— This
may be used either as a bush plant on the lawn or open border, for cov-
ering walls or arbors, or for forming a light hedge. It is not particular
as to soil or situation, growing almost anywhere. Its flowers are pro-
duced during mild Winters. Beginning in December they expand as the
weather permits till April. Propagation is effected by putting in cut-
tings of the ripe growths out-of-doors in Autumn. Good-sized branches
can be layered successfully. It is one of the easiest shrubs to root. J.
revolutum, J. fruticans and J. floridum, all of them yellow-flowered spe-
cies, usually stand the Winters here. J. revolutum is the hardiest. They
are propagated by layering, and from cuttings of the ripe wood, kept
in a cool house over Winter.
JUNIPERUS (Juniper).— J. sabina var. tamariscifolia is a most useful
dwarf, trailing evergreen, seldom growing over 18 inches high. J. pro-
cumbens is another species of creeping habit. Cuttings may be put in
after the first slight frost. Where only a limited number of this and
other evergreen coniferous shrubs is required, the best method, I have
found, is to fix up a few boxes, say about 4 inches deep, with sandy pot-
ting soil at the bottoms and pure sand on top; make the cuttings about
6 inches long, half of which should be in the soil. Put them in fairly
close together, and firm well. Give one good watering. Stand the
boxes in the coolest part of the house under the benches; keep moder-
ately damp, and by Spring, if the conditions have not been unfavorable,
a goodly percentage will have rooted. If not too close together they
will take little harm from passing the Summer In the same boxes. The
kinds available for this method of propagation are Biotas, Cupressus,
Thuja, Retinospora, Cephalotaxus and Taxus.
KALMIA LATIFOLIA (Calico Bush).— A native evergreen shrub grow-
ing from Maine southwards. In the Northern States it is a bush, 4 to 8
feet high. Further South it is frequently met with 20 feet high. It
blooms during May and June. It is cultivated much in the same way
as Rhododendrons; but under cultivation we seldom see the plants
flourishing equal to those in their native habitats. It is raised from seed
and from layers. K. glauca has lilac colored flowers, and whitish under
the leaves; K. angnstifolia has purple flowers. All three are used for
forcing, imported plants being employed for the purpose. K. angnsti-
folia has lateral corymbs; in K.latifolia and K. glauca they are terminal.
KERRIA JAPONICA is a popular flowering shrub which;is not too par-
ticular as to soil or situation. It attains a height of about 6 feet.
There are three forms— the double flowered, single flowered and varie-
gated leaved. They are all good. The variegated one keeps the color
in the leaves all through the season just as showy as in Spring; it usu-
ally bears a crop of flowers, which are bright yellow, over an inch in
diameter, along about the first part of May. This plant is capable of
being used as a hedge subject, as it stands clipping well. The other two
kinds are more profuse bloomers, especially the double, which is the
strongest growing of the three. It is seldom without flowers all during
the Summer and Fall. The plants are best propagated from ripe
growths during the latter part of August, indoors.
HARDY SHRUBS, 161
K(ELREUTERIA PANICULATA is one of the very best small sized decidu-
ous trees in cultivation — such as florists are often called upon to suggest
for small gardens and in places unsuitable or too small for the develop-
ment of forest trees. The Kcelreuteria was certainly not named by any-
one having its popularity in view, as I am inclined to think the long
name is responsible for the plant not being more common. There isn't
a sufficiently taking popular name under which the species is known.
The leaves are compound; the flowers yellow, in immense panicles, well
above the leaves; they are produced in June and July. The seed, which
is somewhat like that of the Canna, if sown in the Fall will germinate
the following Spring. Stock is also got up readily from root cuttings.
LAQERSTRCEMIA INDICA, (Crape Myrtle )— Northern nurserymen, as
a rule, do not handle this plant, owing to its being tender in the North.
However, it is hardy enough to stand zero weather; but wh*»n the mer-
cury gets much lower the plant is apt to be killed to the ground. In
the Southern States the Crape Myrtle is perhaps the best known of all
the flowering shrubs, as there are few, if any, which exceed in beauty a
well-developed specimen in full bloom. The flowers are bright pink and
are arranged in immense heads, even on one year-old plants from seed.
Large specimens grown in tubs, and kept in a cool greenhouse, can be
made to flower two or three times during the year by cutting back the
flowering branches. L. i. alba has pure white flowers, others are bright
and pale shades of purple, rose and red. It is hardy in this section and
is successfully grown much further North with a slight protection dur-
ing Winter, for if the roots are protected with a covering of leaves, or
rough litter, they will sprout vigorously and bloom profusely before the
Summer passes. It is best propagated from seed, as all the colors come
true. Sow in boxes about the latter part of September, on very firm
soil, covering the seeds with finely sifted peaty soil. They will germinate
in Spring, and if liberally treated some of them will bloom the same
season. Young plants are always much more tender than those three
years old and upward.
LAURUS NOBILIS (Bay Tree)— In sheltered situations this well-known
shrub occasionally survives the Winters in this section. It sometimes
makes growths 6 feet long in a single season ; these are necessarily soft
and ill-prepared to stand severe weather. During the Winter of 1898 —
1899 every plant was killed to the ground. Large specimen plants
grown as standards and pyramids are imported for decorative pur-
poses. They may be had in good condition for several years by
attention to watering and keeping them indoors when there is dan-
ger from frosts. Owing to their restricted root room there is little
danger of their growing out of shape.
LlQUSTRUn (Privet)— In this section L.japonicum is a very desirable
evergreen species with large leaves. During very severe Winters the
outer branches suffer considerably. I. Ibota, L ovalifolium, and I. luci-
dum are very attractive-looking shrubs when in flower. The European
Privet, L. vulgare, has small flowers and foliage, and is the hardiest of
the number There is a form with glaucous leaves, the margins of which
are bordered with white. The deciduous species are among the eaeiest
162 HARDY SHRUBS.
shrubs to root from dormant cuttings. These may be put in as soon as
the leaves fall. The evergreen species usually bear large quantities of
seeds, which are slow in germinating; when they remain in the ground
over Summer a mulching should be given to prevent drying.
LONICERA (Bush Honeysuckle)— L. Standishii comes in flower before
the leaves appear, usually in February and March. The blooms are
sweet-scented, but rather inconspicuous. In favorable seasons the orna-
mental fruit is ripe during the first half of May. Seeds sown in Septem-
ber will germinate the following Spring. The branches may be layered
any time after midsummer. L. fragrantissima is almost an evergreen
species here; it blooms early in the season, theflowers are very fragrant.
It forms beautiful specimens when not interfered with by other shrubs
and trees. It is best propagated by cuttings taken any time during a
wet spell in Summer, and rooted indoors. After this process they may
be heeled in boxes of soil, and, afterward, either planted in rows outside
or kept in a frame till Spring. L. Aibertii is a dwarf species with small
and narrow glaucous leaves and purplish flowers. L. Morowii and L.
Ruprechtiana are both valuable on account of their handsome red fruit
which ripens in great abundance. L. tatarica has numerous forms,
differing from each other in the color of the flowers and fruits. L. t'.
grandiflora has bright red flowers striped with white; L. t. splendens
has the flowers dark rose; L. t. grandiflora alba is pure white. They
do best in sunny positions and are increased by layering; also from
seeds.
HAQNOLIA— All of the hardy species, some of which are fair-sized
trees, are well worth growing. They may be divided into two sections
— North American and Asiatic. Those of the former produce their
flowers after the leaves are formed, while the deciduous, Asiatic species
bloom for the most part on the naked wood, and very early in Spring.
M. grandiflora, an evergreen species, native of the Southern States,
begins blooming here about the end of May and continues throughout
the Summer. In this section it is hardy, but during Winter, when the
thermometer registers from 5 to 10 degrees below zero, the leaves are
almost certain to fall, although without apparent injury to ihe plant.
North of here it has a struggle for existence. Seeds sown In Autumn
usually germinate In Spring. Seedlings are more vigorous than
grafted plants, but they nevertheless take a considerable time before
attaining a flowering size. M. macrophylla, another native, is known
as the great-leaved Magnolia; it is much hardier than M. grandiflora.
The leavies are from 2 to 3 feet long, and proportionately broad. The
flowers are nearly a foot across. It is easily raised from seed. In this
locality its blooming period is during the last half of May and early In
June. M. glauca, M. g. Thomsoniaua and M. g. WatsonI are all desira-
ble hardy shrubs. The two last named have larger flowers than the
type. Among the Chinese and Japanese species and varieties, M. stellata
is the earliest to come in bloom ; it is sometimes in full flower here by
the middle of March. M. conspicua follows a week or ten days later;
this is the flnest of the Chinese species. As the large flowers expand
before the foliage it is indeed a conspicuous plant when in bloom. M.
HARDY SHRUBS. 163
Soulangeana is thouj^ht to be a natural hybrid between M. conspicua
and the dark purple flowered M. obovata. This is probably the case, as
the color of the flowers would indicate; moreover, it is later in bloom-
ing than M. conspicua and earlier than M. obovata. M. Kobus is a very
shapely small tree, with small flowers which open early. It is used as a
stock for grafting purposes. The seeds are certain to germinate evenly
when sown as soon as ripe. M. Lennei is the showiest of the dark pur-
ple-flowered kinds. The bloom is cup-shaped and very large; the petals
are dark purple on the outside, lighter within. M. stellata is sometimes
used as an Easter plant. When flowered in pots for this purpose it
should be home grown, and plants selected for forcing which show the
most buds. For forcing they may be potted in the Fall, but if the
ground is in a condition to allow the plants to be lifted they can be
successfully flowered a week or two afterward. Propagation is effected
by seed, budding, grafting, and layering. Stocks may be chosen from
M. Kobus, M. tripetala or M. acuminata. Layering should be practiced
before the plants are in active growth. The best season for planting is
just before the plants start into growth.
NEVIUSA ALABAHENSIS is called the Alabama Snow Wreath. This
name is a little misleading, as when in flower there is really nothing to
suggest snow from the appearance of the bushes. The stamens are the
most attractive part of the flower; they are greenish white. Propaga-
tion is by division of the old plants; they sucker very freely. Summer
cuttings can be depended on to root quickly.
OSMANTHUS— This genus belongs to the same order as the Olive
(Olea), under which the species are sometimes described. O. aquifolius
has a certain resemblance to the English Holly (Ilex). The resemblance
is still more striking in the variety O.a.ilicifolius, one of the handsomest
evergreen shrubs outside of the Conifers. It has stood outdoors here
for a long number of years. During very severe Winters it suffers very
little, and in protected situations not at all. O. a. myrtifolius is a form
with leathery, spineless leaves, but is not such a free-growing shrub as
the others. Of O. a. ilicifolius there are one or two handsome variegated
forms in cultivation, but they are less hardy than the green-leaved
variety. They are easily propagated by cuttings, rooted indoors during
the Fall months. O. a. ilicifolius seeds freely and the seedlings come
true; they do not germinate till the second year. Privet stocks are used
on which to graft the variegated forms.
pyEONIA nOUTAN (Shrubby Paeonia)— The shrubby Peeonies are varie-
ties of this species. They are hardy in the North, but their flower buds
are quickly developed during mild weather, consequently they are apt
to suffer from late frosts. They force well early in the season, but are
only good for variety, as few flowers can be had on a moderate-sized
plant. As border subjects they are desirable, making an attractive
display during April or the first half of May. Propagation is by seeds,
division and grafting. The single and semi-double forms will, in favora-
ble seasons, ripen a considerable quantity of seed; they should not be
allowed to remain in the seed vessels after they are ripe, as they harden,
and germination will take longer than if sown when ripe. Sow in boxes
X64 HARDY SHRUBS.
and keep under cover for the Winter. They should germinate in Spring.
Seedlings are not as free flowering as grafted plants. The operation of
grafting is best performed during the first half of September, in order
that the union may be perfect and new roots produced by the stocks to
give the Spring growth a vigorous start. For stocks any of the numer-
ous varieties of the Chinese species may be taken; those varieties having
the poorest flowers should, of course, be selected for the purpose. The
wood taken for cions should be from the less robust part of the plant,
that in which the large flower buds are absent being preferred. The
leaves should be shortened back, and the cion attached to a good-sized
piece of the fleshy part of the root of the herbaceous species by the
easiest of the ordinary methods of grafting. Tie on with a string which
will not rot in the ground during Winter, as support is needed in this
way even after the cion has taken with the stock. The position to be
occupied by the grafted stocks is the most important part of the opera-
tion. Where the Winters are severe, a deep frame, facing north, is the
best place for them. In this locality they are heeled in on a sheltered
part of the open border, but deep enough in the soil, so that the lower
part of the cion is covered. A layer of decayed leaves or sphagnum is
kept on the surface of the soil, and the tops shaded for the first two
weeks. In planting insert deep enough so as to give the cions every
opportunity to send out their own roots. About the beginning of May
the graft will have made considerable growth; each one should then be
supported with a stick, else it is liable to become detached from the
stocks. Division should only be attempted with plants which are well
provided with short growths from the bases of the plants.
PAULOWNIA IMPERIALIS (Empress Tree).— Under favorable condi
tions this subject grows into a good-sized tree. During May, before the
leaves appear, the large panicles of bright purple gloxinia-hke flowers
open out, making a most gorgeous appearance. A medium-sized tree will
ripen an almost incredible number of seeds; they are quite small and
need careful tending to germinate them successfully. Young plants,
w^encut down annually, throw up very strong shoots with leaves
sometimes 2 feet in diameter, giving an effect not to be had with any
other plant. It thrives in any soil. The Winter of 1898-1899 was
the first to kill the flower buds on even large-sized trees in Washington.
It is hardy in the North, but the flower buds, being naked, are usually
killed by severe frosts.
PAVIA MACROSTACHYA (Smooth=fruited Horse Chestnut)— This is a
desirable shrub, growing from 3 to 9 feet high, spreading rapidly by
means of stoloniferous roots. It flowers in June; the flowers are white,
disposed in upright racemes. It is most easily propagated by division.
P. rubra var. purpurea blooms in a very small state; it will succeed
either in sun or shade. Seedlings make satisfactory blooming plants.
PERSICA VULGARIS (Peach)— The double-flowering forms are among
the most popular of dwarf-flowering trees. Their period of blooming is
during April and May, according to locality. P. v. versicolor plena has
the flowers either red or white on the same tree, or with both colors
combined in the same flower. There are double red, double rose and
HARDY SHRUBS. 165
double white forms. They are increased by working on one-year-old
seedling stocks of the common peach.
PHILADELPHUS (Hock Oratige, Syringa)— All of the species and their
forms are valuable flowering shrubs with large white flowers, some
of which are very fragrant. P. coronarius is one of the best known;
P. c. primulaBflorus has double flowers; there is another with yel-
lowish leaves. P. grandiflorus is a native of the Southern States; it
has larger flowers than P. coronarius. P. Gordonianus is a late
bloomer, with almost scentless flowers. They succeed in almost any
soil. Cuttings taken after the leaves drop in Autumn will root very
quickly if put in slight bottom heat in March or April; or in a protected
place they root well in the open ground. Pruning should be done only
after the flowers have faded. This will give the young wood an oppor-
tunity to ripen. The flowers are only produced on the wood made the
preceding Summer.
POTENTILLA FRUTICOSA (Shrubby Cinquefoil)— A very hardy species
growing from 2 to 5 feet high, with pinnate leaves and numerous bright
yellow flowers, which are produced all through the Summer. Cuttings
may be rooted at any time indoors during Summer. Small plants are
very suitable for the rockery, and by pruning in the Spring they are
easily kept within bounds.
PRUNUS PADUS is the Bird Cherry. It bears long racemes of white
flowers, in May, followed by ornamental black fruit. P. spinosa flore-
pleno, the double flowering Sloe, forms a large shrub, usually covered
with double white flowers in early Spring. The dwarf white, double-
flowering Almond is P. japonica flore-alba-plena; the red form is P. j.
flore-rubra-plena. They bloom for only a short period, but are exceed-
ingly handsome while the flowers last. P. Pissardi is the purple-leaved
Plum, of which there are good and bad forms; the good varieties retain
their coloring till the end of the season. The flowers, usually borne in
great profusion, open in early Spring before the leaves expand. In this
locality the fruits are ripe by the end of May. Most of the species and
forms are propagated by budding and grafting, but it is cheaper to buy
than to work them in small quantities.
PUNICA QRANATUn NANA (Dwarf Pomegranate)— Both the tall
growing and dwarf Pomegranates stand our most severe Winters here
without the least injury, and flower quite profusely during the Summer.
They are all the more welcome, as their unique, bright scarlet flowers
are produced when shrubs in bloom are scarce. In favorable seasons
they ripen fruit, but we do not depend upon these for propagation. Cut-
tings are taken from one and two-year-old wood, stored and put in a
cool house propagating bed about the middle of February; they root
very evenly. They should be removed to a frame as soon as they will
bear it. The dwarf form makes a very ornamental shrub, and should
be tried wherever it is likely to thrive. Native of Cabul and Persia.
PYRUS (Crab=apple) — Highly ornamental low growing trees, usually
covered with flowers early in Spring. Some of them have very highly
colored fruits in Autumn. They are increased by budding and grafting
166 HARDY SHRUBS.
on seedling stocks. The flowers of P. Mains coronaria are large, single,
pinkish-white, very sweetly scented. It bears fruit freely, bat the seed-
lings are slow in making flowering plants. P. M. floribunda and the
variety called atrosanguinea are most beautiful when the flowers are
half expanded ; they are then of a bright rosy-red color, getting lighter
when fully open. The flowers of P. M. Parkmanni are double, of a
beautiful deep rose; valuable for cutting. It is a very free flowering
variety and should be largely grown. P. M. carnea and P. M. lutea
produce large numbers of flowers on small grafted plants. The double
white and double rose colored forms of P. M. spectabilis are very desira-
ble; they are very regular bloomers, seldom missing a season. P. M.
floribunda and P. M f. atrosanguinea bloom freely in a small state, and
should be grown more for forcing purposes.
RHAPHIOLEPIS OVATA— A charming little evergreen shrub, which is
hardj^ here in sheltered situations. The flowers resemble those of a Cra-
taegus; they are pure white, sweet-scented, about three-quarters of an
Inch across and arranged in terminal panicles. The leaves are leathery
in texture and almost round. It ought to prove a good shrub for the
Southern States. It is easily propagated by cuttings in the Fall, rooted
indoors.
RHODODENDRON.— In some parts these do grandly. In this locality,
when given sheltered and partly shaded positions, they thrive tolerably
well, but when in the full sun they do not thrive unless very carefully
watched. Hybrids of R. ponticum are less hardy than those of R.
catawbiense. This species and R. maximum are natives of the Eastern
States; they should be given treatment similar to that recomended for
Azalea. They are propagated by layering and grafting on seedling
stocks of the hardy species, principally R. maximum. R. punctatum,a
species from N. Carolina with small pink flowers, is quite hardy North.
There are many beautiful greenhouse species and varieties, compara-
tively few of which are cultivated in America.
RHODOTYPOS KERRIOIDES (White Kerria)— This is a very desirable
Japanese shrub, seldom growing over 8 feet high, although in its native
country it is said to reach twice that height. The flowers make their
appearance as soon as the growths of the current year develop, and
keep up quite a display from about the middle of May all through the
Summer and Fall months; that is, if the ground does not get too dry.
The flowers are snow-white, aobut 2 inches in diameter, and appear at the
ends of the shoots. The plant thrives well on heavy soils, and, although
not necessarily, in places crowded and partly shaded by overhead foli-
age. The seeds are in shape and size somewhat like those of the Canna.
They may be sown as soon as gathered, as they are slow in germinating.
RHUS COTINUS (Smoke Tree)'-A species from Southern Europe, with
very neat foliage. The whole plant is usually covered during mid-
Bummer with a fringe-like substance, which gives rise to the name
" Smoke Tree." This substance consists of the elongated hairy pedicels.
R. glabra is one of the handsomest species, on account of its large, odd-
pinnate leaves. R. g. laciniata has the leaflets much cut up, resembling
the fronds of some Ferns; both are easily propagated from cuttings of
HARDY SBRUBS. 167
the roots. R. typhina, the Staghorn Sumach, grows from 10 to 30 feet
high. The leaves are odd-pinnate, having from 11 to 31 leaflets. R.
copallina is a shrub, growing from 1 to 7 feet high. Both are propa-
gated by root cuttings, and also from seeds. R. Toxicodendron and R.
venenata are poisonous species; the former is known as Poison Oak
and Poison Ivy, the latter as Poison Sumach and Poison Dogwood.
ROBINIA HISPIDA— The flowers of this species are deep rose colored,
borne in hanging racemes. When grown on its own roots it suckers
freely, and when planted among choice shrubs it soon appropriates
space not intended for it. When worked on stocks of the False Acacia,
R. Pseud-acacia, it is a more desirable shrub, but it requires frequent
pruning to keep it in shape. Of R. Pseud-acacia there are low-growing
and late-blooming forms; none of them are, however, superior to the
type. They are worked on seedling plants of R. Pseuda-acacia.
ROSA— (Rose)*
The Rose is without question the most popular of flowers, and it can
hardly be wondered at, as in the very numerous species and varieties
we have nearly every shade of color in the flower— green, yellow, bronze,
red, pink, white, purple and almost black. The flowers, be they single,
semi-double or double, have much to please the eye, and their fragrance
is unsurpassed. The cultivated varieties are divided into classes. Some
of the varieties are differently arranged by different authorities. The
arrangements are intended as aids to the published descriptions; thus
the more easily do growers get au idea as to the habits of a new Rose
when the originators class it with a section of the better-known varie-
ties. But the varieties of the several groups have, to a certain extent,
been crossed one with another, and there are very few people, even be
they expert rosarians, who agree with each other on the position which
some of our Roses should occupy in any system of classification. Again,
as new breaks are made by the crossing of species and varieties, as has
lately been done with the species R. Wichuraiana and R. rubiginosa,
there arises a necessity for new class names. Some of the sections are
but little grown in the Northern States, as the plants which do best in
the colder parts of the country belong to only a few classes. The hybrid
perpetuals, or hybrid remontants, are the best-known outdoor Roses,
but for this purpose they are unsatisfactory both North and South. In
the North they suffer during Winter, and in the South they are anything
but ornamental after the flowering period, which is a short one. In
this latitude they are at their best from the 25th of May till the 10th of
June. They are, however, gorgeous while they last. Further North
some of the kinds give a few scattering blooms in Autumn. General
Jacqueminot, a variety raised nearly 50 years ago, is one of the most
valued by amateurs, owing to its brilliant crimson, highly fragrant
flowers. It is used to a considerable extent for forcing. When the plants
are put out in solid beds, the sash are removed in Summer, to develop
strong canes. At the proper season these are pruned, the plants top
dressed, and the crop of flowers in early Spring is usually a heavy one.
Some houses of this Rose in this vicinity have stood untouched, save in
168 HARDY SHRUBS.
pruning and top dressing, for 15 years. The varieties Ulrich Brunner^
Mrs. John Laing, Mme. Gabriel Luizet and Anne de Diesbach force well,
and for outdoor culture they are among the best.
Forcing— In forcing hybrid perpetuals the plants should be lifted
when the growths are matured, pruned back, potted hard and placed in
a cold frame. Plunge the pot among leaves, if there is a probability of
their making a few roots before freezing weather without the buds
starting into growth. Plunging will keep the roots safe and in a condi-
tion ready for active work. When brought into a cool house, in the
early part of the year, they need to be brought on very gradually so as
to have feeding roots when the buds break. An examination of the
roots will show when it is safe to force growth by giving gentle heat.
American Beauty, sent out in 1885, is a perpetual bloomer and has, to a
certain extent, taken the place of most of the older forcing varieties of
the so-called hybrid perpetual class. This variety has had a wonderful
career as a forcing Rose, and it is unlikely that its place will be taken by
newcomers for some time at least.
Propagation— Roses of this class for outdoor growth are propagated
by budding, grafting and from cuttings. When it is desired to put in
cuttings in the open ground the work should be done during the first
half of October. Select a sheltered spot. Have the ground freshly
worked, or, better still, the cuttings may be put in as the ground is dug.
The cuttings should be at least 9 inches in length and only an inch or so
should be exposed above the surface. Those cuttings having a heel are
not so liable to decay as those cut between leaves, or at the base of a
leaf. They should always be put in with the aid of a spade, as it allows
firming with the feet; and if the soil needs it a little sand should be
added while the trench is open, to induce healthy rooting. Half-rotted
leaves, or rough stable litter, should be spread over the whole during
hard freezing weather. When they are to be rooted indoors, the cuttings
should be taken off later, tied in bundles and their bottom ends placed
in moss, in a place low enough in temperature to keep the buds dor-
mant. In Spring place in a gentle bottom heat, with the atmosphere
cool. They will root readily by this method. The cuttings must be
potted before the roots get long. In potting have the soil moderately
moist, so that they will need little water until the roots begin to take
with the soil. In grafting, which is done in Spring, cut back plants of
the Manetti and Dog Rose are used, or pieces of the roots of these, or
the roots of any of the free growing Roses, such as Mme. Plantier.
Budding on stocks of Manetti, or the Dog Rose, is done in the open
ground in late Summer.
Propagation by Seeds— New varieties are largely raised from seeds
ripened from hand-pollinated flowers. In raising plants from seeds,
if sown as soon as ripe, they germinate very irregularly. Some of
the hybrid perpetuals will germinate part of a crop and some of them
will flower in two months from date of sowing. Other seedlings, ger-
minated at the same period, will take at least a year to bloom, while
other seeds of the same batch will lie in the seed pan over a year before
vegetating. The reason why the seeds sometimes remain a long time
HARDY SHRUBS. 169
in the soil before germinating is owing to their being inclosed by a
horny substance. This should be softened before sowing, by allowing
the seeds to remain in boxes of finely sifted sand during the Winter, the
boxes to be buried several inches below the surface of the soil out-of-
doors. In removing the seeds from the sand previous to sowing, use a
sieve with a small mesh; empty the sand (which is likely to be wet)
into this, and force the sand through the meshes with the aid of a stream
of water from the hose. The seeds should then be sown before getting
dry. Care must be talien to remove them from their Winter quarters
before vegetating, which they are apt to do, even when they are deep
in the soil, as soon as the temperature of their surroundings reaches
40 degrees.
Teas and Hybrid Teas are the most important of all the classes,
because they include the Roses mostly grown under glass to supply
flowers all the year round. Although the varieties annually raised are
numerous enough, those mostly grown in large quantities are either old
kinds or sports from old kinds. Catherine Mermet is the parent of two
—Bride and Bridesmaid; it is over 30 years since it was raised. La
France, a hybrid Tea, the parentage of which is unknown, but it is said
to have been raised from seed of a Tea Rose, is between 30 and 40 years
old. Although in some cities a back number, in Washington it ranks
next to American Beauty in price during the Winter, and is much in
demand. Two of its sports. Duchess of Albany and Augustine Guinois-
seau, have had their innings as forcing plants. If Golden Gate could be
grown everywhere alike in size of flower, stem and productiveness, as it
is in this locality, it would be a more popular Rose. Some flowers
obtained here and exhibited in a Northprn city not long ago, were taken
for extra fine specimens of Souvenir du President Carnot — a hybrid Tea,
which, like many others, has not fulfilled the predictions made for it a
few seasons ago when first sent out. It has a habit of going to rest
during the season when most wanted; but grand results are easily
secured by resting, freezing and starting the plants, to have them in
bloom by Easter, and depending upon them later for a supply of bloom
during the Summer. Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, another Rose of the
same class, gives good results by similar methods. Meteor, a hybrid
Tea, raised in the eighties, has been popular where tried, but solely on
account of its color, which is dark crimson. The list of kinds which
have been tried for forcing and discarded is a long one. Scarcely a year
elapses without some new kind being sent out, and the fate of most of
them is determined after a short trial.
For Out"door Bloom the Teas are getting more popular year by year,
and deservedly so, as they flower continuously during the Summer and
Autumn months. If given a mulching of rotted manure and watered
occasionally during dry spells, they are much more satisfactory than
the hybrid perpetuals. Most of the kinds are quite hardy in this section.
The tops are, of course, frequently killed, but this makes little difference,
as the strong flowering wood is made from the base of the plants.
Even much further North many of the kinds will stand the Winter, if
protected by some loose material over the roots. But even where they
are killed annually, the plants used during the Winter in the benches
170 BARDY SBRUBS.
make excellent material for planting out. If cut back and potted they
take about ten days, in a suitable temperature, to throw out roots
enough to insure successful growth when planted in the open border.
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Bridesmaid, La France and its forms, Sou-
venir du President Carnot, Belle Siebrecht, Antoine Rivoire and White
Maman Cochet are a few among a large number of others which can be
depended upon to succeed. Among the other ever-blooming kinds R.
rugosa and its hybrids are coming into prominence. One of the first
hybrids, raised about 12 years ago, is named Mme. Georges Bruant.
The flowers are large, semi-double, very sweetly scented, and in color
are almost white, having a slight creamy shade to them. Under favor-
able conditions, that is, where they are encouraged to send up fresh
growths, blooms will be produced all through the season. Blanc de
Coubert seems to be a double form of Rosa rugosa alba; it bears a pure
white flower, is free blooming, and should be in every collection. The
hybrid climbing Roses include such kinds as Paul's Carmine Pillar and
Climbing Victor Verdier. Coquette des Alpes and Coquette des Blanches
are representatives of the Hybrid Noisettes. Other well-known ever-
bloomers are Clothilde Soupert (Polyantha), Hermosa (Bourbon), and
Champion of the World (Hybrid Bourbon).
Cultivation Under Glass— Teas and Hybrid Teas are the Roses most
largely grown for this purpose They are easiest propagated from cut-
tings of the half-ripened wood. It does not seem to make much differ-
ence whether flowering or blind wood is used. Cuttings may be taken
to single eyes with the leaf shortened back, or made with two eyes and
the lower leaf removed. A bottom heat of from 65 to 70 degrees will
answer, the atmosphere of the house being 10 degrees lower. Propaga-
tion is carried on from January to March. The plants are put out on
the benches during June, from 3 or 4-inch pots, according to variety.
Four inches of soil is the usual quantity ; the kind used should be rather
heavy and fibrous loam mixed with rotted cow manure to about one-
sixtL- of its bulk. Subsequent mulchings of rotted manure mixed with
bone meal are given as the plants show the necessity for them. Abun-
dance of ventilation is afforded during warm weather. If shading is ne-
cessary it should be done with a substance which is easily removed, such
as grafting clay mixed with water and applied with a syringe or pump.
Firing should begin when the outside temperature drops to 50 degrees;
the minimum night temperature of the house should be kept in the neigh-
borhood of 55 degrees, rising to 70 degrees during the day for the Teas
and Hybrid Teas, with the exception of Meteor, which thrives best with
a minimum of 65 degrees. Watering is an item of the first importance.
The condition of the soil is the best indicator as to whether water should
be given or withheld. The first buds are cut off to induce robust
growth. Syringing is necessary, to prevent red spider from increasing,
but should only be practiced in iDright weather. Ventilation is not less
important than watering, and good judgment must be exercised in
opening and closing the house; the condition of the weather out-of-
doors must always be taken into consideration as well as the indoor
temperature, as cold draughts, or the temperature getting too low will
HARDY SHRUBS. 171
almost certainly provide correct conditions for an attacls of mildew— a
fungus which in a short period, if allowed to grow unchecked, will ruin
the plants. When mildew makes its appearance, sulphur applied to the
steam or hot water pipes is the best antidote. Aphides are best checked
by vaporizing. American Beauty, as already stated, is a hybrid per-
petual, and when cultivated under glass it is an ever-bloomer. It is
grown in a slightly warmer atmosphere than the Teas, and is often very
successfully cultivated in solid beds. Medium-sized wood should be
chosen for the cuttings, and these made with two eyes. They should
be planted out of 4-inch pots.
Propagation by Grafting— There seems to be a difference of opinion
as to the benefits to be derived from this method of propagation, but
each grower may settle it for himself by giving it a trial. The stocks
should be prepared by potting in 3-inch pots; in thickness they should
correspond as near as possible with that of the cion — the cion should
never be of a greater diameter than that of the stock. Any of the com-
mon methods of grafting will answer. The cion should be securely
fastened in position with raffia. As soon as tying is completed, it is
necessary that the plants be kept in a suitable atmosphere to preserve
the leaves of the cions so that the union may be hastened. In grafting
hybrids this is not so necessary, as they can be handled without leaves.
A brisk heat under the plunging material will quicken the action of the
roots and effect a union safely without the aid of a frame; but with
Teas it is necessary to have them in an almost air-tight structure. If
only a few hundred are to be experimented with, part of a side bench
may be set apart for the purpose of receiving the grafted plants, and
may be prepared as follows: Have the front and back boards higher
than the plants. Ordinary sash laid lengthwise of the bench will suit
all right, provided they can be arranged so as to keep the atmosphere
warm and humid. To facilitate easy access to the plants the sash may
be temporarily hinged on to the back boards with pieces of leather, and
the sash tilted in front with a stick. Select a stretch of bench that can
be relied upon to supply a temperature of from 70 to 80 degrees inside
of the frame. First put a layer of sphagnum on the bench — one inch
closely packed will do. Over this put some ashes, or sand, on which to
stand the pots. The other conditions necessary for a quick union will
readily sugest themselves, air being given very gradually after the union
has taken place. When hardened off, growth will be accelerated by a
shift into larger pots.
Summer Roses — According to locality May, June and July is the
period during which the Summer Roses bloom. They are known as
Ayrshire, Prairie, Austrian, Moss, Provence (Cabbage or Centifolia), Mul-
tiflora. Hybrid Sweet Briars, Hybrid China, Musk and Hybrid Wichu-
raiana. Bennett's Seedling is a well-known representative of the Ayr-
shire class. Among the Prairie Roses Baltimore Belle and Queen of the
Prairies are old but grand kinds, splendidly adapted as climbers; they
are very hardy and late in blooming. The Austrian Briars are among
the earliest to flower; they form good-sized bushes and require little
attention in the way of pruning. Austrian Copper has large, single
flowers of a brilliant coppery-red on the upper surfaces of the petals;
172 HARDY SHRUBS,
the under surfaces are much paler in color. Austrian Yellow has large
single yellow flowers. Harison's Yellow and Persian Yellow are semi-
double forms. The Wichuraiana hybrids are destined to cut quite a
figure as hardy climbers. The female parent, R. Wichuraiana (R. Lucia^)
is a Japanese species, of a rambling habit, with clusters of small white
flowers, which open late. The leaves are small and shining. The plant
lasts only a short time in bloom, but a well-estabhshed subject bears
thousands of flowers. This is the easiest of all Roses to propagate.
The new race of hybrids which have been raised lately are, in some
cases, several weeks ahead of R. Wichuraiana in blooming ; they appear
to be very hardy. The flowers of R. Wichuraiana are capable of being
fertihzed with pollen from a large number of different varieties, and the
resulting progeny varies greatly. Some have large, single flowers
exceeding in size any of the recent hybrid Sweet Briars; others are
email, very double, with petals arranged like the florets of a Zinnia.
Some again have the flowers so closely resembling those of the variety
Hermosa as to be mistaken for these, but the habit of all of the seed-
lings, so far as I have observed, is the same. W. A. Manda, of South
Orange, N. J., was the flrst to raise hybrids from this species. Lord
Penzance's Hybrid Briars also belong to the Summer blooming class. R.
rubiginosa, the Sweet Briar, is the seed parent; this has been crossed
with various other Roses. The flowers of the hybrids are bright col-
ored and showy, but the most attractive feature is the sweet-scented
foliage.
During recent years the Summer blooming section has been enriched
by a Rose concerning which little is known beyond its being a Japanese
production. It was brought to Scotland early in the seventies, and for
nearly 20 years grew in the garden of a Mr. Jenner, near Edinburgh. It
was secured by Turner, of Slough, and sent out in 1894. The name
'' Engineer," which it had borne up to that time, was changed to Crim-
son Rambler. It is a climber, of very vigorous growth, and very hardy.
The flowers are borne in large clusters. The color is bright crimson. As
was to be expected the great popularity of this Rose suggested Pink,
Yellow and White Ramblers, but while the Roses which are thus
described are good in their way, we have yet to see pink, yellow and
white forms of the Crimson Rambler. This Rose has become a favorite
sort for forcing into bloom at Easter, the plants for which purpose are
either grown in pots or in the open ground. Plants grown by the latter
method are much stronger than those in pots, but they require greater
care in handling. The roots should not be allowed to get the least dry
before potting. It is propagated in Spring and Autumn. When the
wood is ripe and the leaves begin to fall, quite a number of short stubby
growths will be found on the flowering shoots of the previous Summer's
flowering wood; these, if made into cuttings about 10 inches long, and
buried up to within an inch of the ends of the shoots, will root freely.
Place them in some shaded spot, and in Winter cover with half-decayed
leaves or straw to prevent quick thawing and freezing. A quicker
method of propagation is to take half-ripened wood from indoor plants
in Spring; these are potted as soon as rooted, and either grown on in
pots or planted out when weather permits.
HARDY SHRUBS. 173
SHEPHERDIA ARQENTEA (Rabbit Berry)— Under favorable conditions
this species grows into a small tree. I'he leaves, owing to the presence
of an immense number of small silvery scales, are almost white on both
sides, and from a distance the plants look as if they were covered with
white flowers. The blooms are small, produced singly or in pairs in the
axils of the leaves; they are exceedingly fragrant. S. canadensis is a
smaller species, reaching a height of 6 feet. Both are easily raised from
seeds.
SPIRvCA— The shrubby species worth growing; are too numerous to
mention here. One of the earliest to flower, and a favorite kind, is S.
prunifolia; S. Reevesii and its double form are both popular. S. Thun-
bergii blooms very early in the season when there are but few leaves
on the plant; the flowers are small, but they make up in numbers for
what they lack in size. All of the above have white flowers. S. salici-
folia and its varieties bloom in dense panicles late in the season. This,
with S. paniculata rosea, another late bloomer, has pink flowers. S.
Van Houttei is one of the best kinds which flower in May or June; it
makes a good forcing plant. S. Bumalda and S. B. Anthony Waterer
have the flowers disposed on the ends of the shoots of the current year's
growths, in flat heads, several inches in diameter. In S. Bumalda the
flowers are rose colored; its variety has dark crimson blossoms. Both
are dwarf, but very vigorous and easily propagated from the young
wood. S. sorbifolia, S. grandiflora and S. L.indleyana are distinct from
the others in having odd-pinnate leaves and the flowers arranged in
large panicles, produced late in the season. S. sorbifoha dies down to
the ground each season, and during extra hard Winters the other two
behave in a similar way; but they make growth enough the following
Summer to flower. S. Lindleyana is useful for planting in large groups.
A native of the Himalayas it is probably unsuited for Northern sections
unless well protected. All three are easily raised from seeds, or by
division.
STAPHYLEA (Bladder Nut)— S. colchica and S. Bumalda bloom very
early in the season. They have the reputation of being the easiest
shrubs to bring into flower under artificial conditions. They belong to
the Maple family, and are natives of Japan and Europe. S. colchica has
fairly large-sized racemes of almost pure; white flowers, very agreeably
scented. Young plants with flowering wood can be got up in two years
by taking cuttings of dormant wood in Autumn, heeling in moss, intro-
ducing them to gentle bottom heat in March.
SYMPHORICARPUS RACEMOSUS (Snowberry)— This species is grown
on account of the large white fruits which hang from the ends of the
branches during the Autumn and Winter months. S. vulgaris has red
fruits, but much smaller than those of S. racemosus. They are propa-
gated by seed, cuttings, or by division.
SYRINGA (Lilac)— About a dozen species of this popular genus are in
cultivation. Most of them, however, are of little value for cut bloom.
They are handsome while in flower, but they do not pay to grow along-
side of the varieties of the common species, S. vulgaris. Of these there is
174 HARDY SHRUBS.
an abundance to choose from. S. chinensis, a small-leaved kind, is valu-
able on account of the long stems which support the flower heads. S.
persica, the Persian lilac, and S. p. laciniata make rather handsome
bushes, -v^hich is more than can be said of most of the kinds, as they are
decidedly unsightly when out of bloom compared with the majority of
ornamental shrubs. They are all natives of the old world. S. vulgaris
is indigenous of central Europe. Some of the finer varieties are as fol-
lows: Alba grandiflora and Marie Legraye, both large flowered and
pure white forms; Louis Van Houtte, dark red; Dr. Lindley, purplish
lilac; Charles X., reddish-purple; Leon Simon, double, bluish-crimson;
Emile Lemoine, double, rosy -lilac; Mme. Lemoine, double white. Propa-
gation is effected on in a variety of ways— seeds, suckers, layering, cut-
tings from half ripe or dormant wood, budding and grafting. Raising
plants from seeds is practiced for producing new varieties and for sup-
plying stocks. The best stock is the Californian Privet, Ligustrum ova-
lifolium. Layering is a sure method, and when a limited number of
plants is wanted it is the one which should be practiced.
TAMARIX — All of the species give little trouble in their propagation.
If cuttings 6 inches long be made from the previous year's wood, and
put in gentle heat in the early Spring, they will root in a few days. Out-
door propagation will require the cuttings to be made nearly a foot
long.
ULEX EUROP^EUS (Whin, Qorse, Furze)— Although this beautiful
shrub frequently gets winter-killed with us, yet we would not think of
doing without it. It is useful for planting in the front of a shrubbery,
in sunny places. It starts into active growth very early in the season,
and late frosts do more injury than the very severe frosts of midwinter,
although, like many other things, it does not like rapid thawing and
freezing during Winter. Seedlings are easily raised, and with good
treatment they will bloom when two years old.
VIBURNUM, (Snowball, Queder Rose)— Owing to their large and
showy heads of sterile flowers, several of the kinds are much grown in
shrubberies, in groups on lawns, and for cutting. V. Opulus sterilis is
the one most largely cultivated; it comes in earlier than the Japanese
species, V. plicatum, ;which is the best for cutting, as the flowers last
longer, having more substance to] them. When propagated from cut-
tings the growing tips should be taken in Summer; this must be done
during a wet spell or from bushes which have been kept watered, other-
wise the cuttings are very apt to lose their leaves during the process.
V. macrocephalum, as the name implies, has large heads of flowers; in
fact, too large to be of much service in cutting. This form is shy in root-
ing from cuttings, and is usually worked on seedlings of any of the free-
growing species. There are numerous species, but their flowers are not
showy. V. reticulatum has very handsome foliage, and forms a neat
tall bush. Propagated from green cuttings. V. Tinus is an evergraen
species, frequently getting injured here during Winter; there are several
desirable forms of it.
VITEX AQNUS-CASTUS (Chaste Tree)— In this section one of our
best late blooming shrubs, surviving the Winter without protection.
HARDY SHRUBS. 175
The flowers are purplish-blue or white. The plant blooms in August
and September. V. cannabaefolia forms large, wide bushes, but it suffers
during very severe weather. Both species are best raised from seeds.
There is a hybrid form between the two species, with V. Agnus-castus
as the seed parent; it is equally as hardy as that species, and comes
true from seed.
XANTHOCERAS SORBIFOLIA, a native of Central China, was first
grown in Europe about 80 years ago. It flowers after reaching a height
of about 18 inches. Adult specimens, it is said, reach a height of 20
feet. The flowers are arranged singly, on a central stalk, which is sev-
eral inches long. The stalk is upright, the bottom flowers opening first.
In general appearance the individual flowers have a striking resemblance
to those of the Shortia galacifolia. They have the same crumpled appear-
ance on first opening. The outward parts of the petals are pure white, and
nearest the base the color is at first yellowish green, subsequently
streaked with brownish-red and eventually changing to a brighter red.
The flower stalks are produced on the ends of the previous season's wood;
flowers and foliage expand together. In appearance the foliage some-
what resembles that of the Mountain Ash. The fruit is quite large, fully
the size of a horse chestnut. The seeds are brownish black, three-quar-
ters of an inch in diameter. They should be sown soon as ripe and kept
cool so as not to force germination until the middle of April. To insure
the best results each seed should be sown singly in a 3-inch pot. This
does away with the possibility of injuring the tender roots in transfer-
ring to larger receptacles or to nursery rows. From some cause many
of the seeds produce plants which are entirely white instead of green;
these die when a few weeks old.
YUCCA (Adam's Needle)— The hardy species of this genus are all
ornamental plants thriving in situations fully exposed to the sun.
Almost any soil will suit them. Some of the most useful species are Y.
gloriosa (of which there are numerous varieties, one of the best being
Y. g. recurvifolia), Y. angustifolia and Y. filamentosa. They are
increased by dividing the stems and replanting in a shaded spot until
rooted; also, in some species, by seeds, and from root cuttings.
176
General Directions^
Pfopagfation — Seeds, Grafting:, Buddingf, and Laycfingf —
Hybridization, Potting Plants, Drainage, Soil,
Mulching, Watering*
PROPAGATION.
All plants may be propagated by one or more of the following
methods: Seeds, spores, bulbils, budding, grafting, layering, cuttings of
the stems, twigs, leaves and roots, suckers, divisions of the crowns or
by stolons or runners. Cuttings are usually made from dormant wood
in the cases of shrubs and trees whether they be evergreen or deciduous;
and in the case of soft wooded plants the growths most recently made
are those selected. Cuttings of leaves sometimes root freely and produce
young plants or tubers, as in Begonia rex and Gloxinia. There are many
devices in which to root cuttings, such as double bell glasses placed over
double pots, one of the pots being supphed with water, the other with
sand; handlights, and so forth; but they are of little service and are
seldom used. Deciduous shrubs are usually propagated out-of-doors.
Hardy perennials, such as Iberis, Dianthus and Onosma are propagated
in cold frames. Many of the evergreen shrubs do well in a propagating
house from which frost is kept out, while the tender plants, both hard
and soft wooded, are rooted in an open bed of a warm house the atmos-
pheric temperature of which does not fall lower than 55 degrees during
the coldest weather. For plants which need more heat a propagating
frame is easily erected in the warmest part of the house; this, with a
minimum bottom heat of 75 degrees, serves for Nepenthes and other
plants slow to root under ordinary conditions. Propagation by
suckers, division, stolons and runners is an easy matter, and each species
so treated readily suggests the means to be employed. Many plants
difficult to propagate by the usual methods of cuttings of the branches
yield readily to cuttings made from the roots. The Moss Rose is a fa-
miliar example. Clerodendrons, Fatsias, Paulownia imperialis. Rasp-
berry, Blackberry and Xanthoceras all come freely from roots. Among the
herbaceous plants the roots of Anemone japonica and Lychnis vesper-
tina, when cut up quite small, will give plants from every piece. Ind'oor
plants, such as Manettia cordifolia and Cephselis ipecacuanha will give
plants more readily by this method than any other.
Seeds— The soil in which to sow seeds, especially that portion of it
which is near the surface, and in which there are weed seeds, should be
prepared beforehand so as to avoid the necessity of pulling up the weeds
and the consequent danger attending the operation of dislodging the
seeds which we wish to germinate, especially during the process of ger-
GENERAL DIRECTIONS. Ill
mination. The most natural method is to spread the soil out on a flat
surface in a hothouse and encourage the weed seeds to germinate by the
aid of heat and moisture. The soil should be spread out quite shallow,
and in a few days' time the seeds that are likely to prove most trouble-
some will have germinated. The weeds that one finds most noxious are
quick in germinating, and will be rendered harmless by this method.
They are principally Lamium, Plantago, Ragweed, Grasses, Draba, An-
themis, Rumex, Portulaca, Acalpyha, Oxalis and Trifolium ; but the list
varies with different localities. Burning or steaming the soil is often
resorted to, but for seed sowing I prefer the other method as more likely
to rid the soil thoroughly of the common, troublesome weeds. Soil in-
tended for use in connection with raising Ferns from spores should be
treated even more carefully, in order to destroy every vestige of vegeta-
ble life. To do this thoroughly the soil should be boiled for a reasonable
length of time, and afterward dried in the sun. Seedlings which from
their nature require pricking off (that is putting around the outer edge
of the soil in pots, or in rows, in boxes) shortly after the seed leaves are
developed, should be raised in seed vessels which have at least half their
depth devoted to drainage. Most of this should consist of pieces of
broken pots, or cinders, covered over with some rough material, such as
half-decayed leaves, to prevent the soil washing down. In very shallow
seed vessels, whether pans or boxes, the bottom part should be covered
with rough screenings, with finer soil above, and pressed moderately
firm. In covering the seeds the old rule is to cover the seed with its own
thickness in soil, and if followed out few mistakes will be made. The
covering should not be of such a nature as to bake readily; finely
screened sphagnum moss mixed with sand is a good substance with
which to cover almost any medium-sized seeds that take a reasonably
short time in germinating, as it retains moisture without imparting too
much to the soil below. Very small seeds, such as those of Begonias
and Gloxinias, do not need any covering; but to preserve a humid
atmosphere around them, or to furnish the conditions necessary for
germination, they must be covered with something which prevents a
too rapid evaporation of moisture. This is supplied by a pane of glass,
which should be kept on until the seed leaves appear. It need not fit
tightly, so as to preclude the possibility of a slight circulation of air;
where this is the case the seedlings are apt to dampen, even before the
seed leaves are developed. Where glass is used as a covering for small
seeds the soil ought to be moderately moist before sowing. Thickly
sown seed is an evil to be guarded against, a crowded box or pan of
seedlings, whether they be Ferns or flowering plants, is next to useless,
because shortly after germinating the seedlings begin to get weak and
never afterward make such healthy plants as those which get a chance
to form short, stocky growth— enough at least to enable one to handle
them easily during the operation of pricking or potting off. Seeds, as
soon as germinated, as a rule, should not be kept in a shaded place, as
then they are apt to get " drawn; " that is, too much length between
the surface of the soil and the seed leaves. Most seedlings in the early
part of the season will stand all the sun they can get. This especially
applies to seedlings of such plants as Phlox Drummondii, Madagascar
178 GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
Vincas and Verbenas. Among herbaceous perennials some of the Del-
phiniums and Rheums, also many of the umbelliferous plants have seed-
lings with the petioles of the seed leaves forming a long tube and looking
as if they were very much " drawn," no matter whether grown in sun
or shade. But this is their nature, as the plumule has to penetrate the
tube near the base in order to reach the light, instead of between the
blades of the seed leaves. A great many kinds of plants in the seedling
stage, when pricking off becomes necessary, are not of suflQcient size to
go into small pots; in these they take up too much room and are apt to
suffer from too much or too little water. One will get dry here and
there, and the chances are that when water is given others in the neigh-
borhood will get water when they do not need it. Putting several in a
pot is just as unsatisfactory, as they must be divided up as soon as
sufficient growth is made, and repotted. This applies especially to her-
baceous plants which have a large number of flbry roots instead of a
tap root. I find the plan of putting the seedlings in boxes, when large
enough to handle, to be the most satisfactory method. Watering is then
an easy matter, and the seedlings, when large enough, can be trans-
ferred to the open ground or potted up as required— it is a saving of
space and a saving in labor, especially when the seedlings are transferred
to frames and to their permanent quarters. The seeds of many plants
may be safely sown at almost any time of the year. The majority of
herbaceous plants should be sown during the late Summer, as they
occupy comparatively |little space throughout the Winter months, and
numerous species will bloom the succeeding year, especially if the plants
be put in their permanent positions in the Fall, which I have found a
very advisable thing to do in this section. Seeds of herbaceous plants,
sown early in Spring, especially by amateurs, do not help in making
those plants popular, as the seedlings in the majority of cases do not
flower the first year, and some of the species not even during the second
season.
Grafting consists of placing together two separate parts of plants so
that they will unite and grow as one. That part on which the graft is
placed is usually a plant provided with roots, and is called the stock.
The graft, or cion, is the part which is intended to develop into the
future part of the tree, shrub, or vine, as the case may be, which bears
leaves, flowers and fruits. When the union has taken place, both stock
and cion continue developing as one plant, with, in most instances, very
little to indicate that stock and cion, or roots and branches, belong to
different species, varieties, or forms. Grafting is, however, frequently
done upon the branches of trees, shrubs or even herbaceous plants, so
that frequently we may see several varieties in flower together, or earlier
or later as the case may be, with the flowers of the species, or variety,
upon which the grafts are growing. Some of the reasons why grafting
is resorted to as a means of propagating certain species, but principally
varieties and forms, in preference to other methods of propagation, are
as follows: In growing seedling fruit trees it often requires a long num-
ber of years to know whether these seedlings are worth perpetuating,
as seedlings are apt to be a long time in fruiting, partly owing to their
robust growth; but every species of plant raised from seed takes a cer-
GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 179
tain time before the flowering and fruiting stage is reached. When old
enough to give wood for cions, the seedlings which we will suppose to
be the results of cross-fertilization, are grafted on older seedlingH, or
fruit-bearing stocks, with the result that flowering and fruiting are hast-
ened very considerably. When it is desired to propagate a large num-
ber of any selected variety that has thus been flowered and fruited, the
grafts are often used on one or two-year-old seedling stocks. It will
thus be seen that a very large number of slow flowering and fruiting
plants can be raised by this method, in a comparatively short time.
But the uses to which it is put by no means end here. Some flowering
shrubs have the same characteristics; they take quite a long while to
flower from the seedling stage. Very often seedlings do not make florif-
erous plants, and many of the forms do not produce seeds at all. There-
fore, recourse is had to grafting, not only to lessen as much as possible
the time between the periods of propagation and flowering, but also to
perpetuate certain peculiarities in species and varieties which can not
be brought about by seeds or cuttings. Again, frequently the stock has
beneflcial influences upon the cion. One of them is that some things
which are comparatively tender are rendered hardier by being grafted
upon the stocks of hardy species, or their varieties. For outdoor graft-
ing the usual time is in the Spring, just before the plants are in active
growth, the actual time varying, of course, with different plants and in
different parts of the country. The cions are cut in early Winter, and
buried in the soil or sand, just out of the reach of frost. This keeps them
fresh and plump, and in a condition to readily unite with the stock.
The methods of grafting are numerous; some of them are quite compli-
cated and have been originated merely to show the skill of some oper-
ator. The easiest way may be said to be the best, and the best methods
are so easy that an intelligent child may be taught in a short time to
perform the work successfully. Indoor grafting is practiced during
August and September, and, with dormant wood, during the period
from December to March. As a rule, the closer the relationship between
stock and cion the greater the chances of a successful union between
them. But plants are sometimes successfully grafted on stocks of differ-
ent genera of the same order. The Syringa on the Ligustrum is a fa-
mihar example. Some of the most familiar methods of grafting are as
follows:
Saddle Grafting— In this case that part of the stock on which the cion
is to be placed is cut to a wedge shape. A neatly made notch is cut in
the bottom part of the wood of the cion to fit closely over the wedge-
shaped part of the stock. This method is used in grafting Rhododen-
drons.
Crown grafting is performed by heading back a large-sized stock,
making an incision in the bark from the severed part downward. Raise
the bark on each side of the perpendicular cut, as in budding; make a
slanting cut on one side of the cion, and insert beneath the bark; bind
together and cover with grafting wax.
Veneer grafting is principally practiced on coniferous plants and
Rhododendrons. It consists of making a cross cut through the bark
180 GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
and slightly into the wood. A short distance above this cross cut begin
with a slanting cut downward until the first cut is reached; shape the
cion so that it fits exactly; tie in position and cover with wax. The
stock is headed back after the union has taken place.
Tongue or whip grafting is used with seedlings as stocks, the stock
and cion being of the same thickness. A slanting cut is made on the
two surfaces to be joined with a tongue in each, so made that the
tongues will fit exactly in their places. A little practice will show where
the tongues should be made.
Inarching consists of uniting the cion to the stock while it is still
supported by the parent root. It is the simplest of all the methods. A
slice of bark and cambium is cut from both stock and cion, the two
brought together so as to fit exactly; they are then firmly tied. After
the union is assured the cion is gradually severed from the parent to
avoid a too sudden check.
Root grafting is a very simple operation, and is practiced with such
plants as Clematis, Rose, Shrubby Pseony, and many other plants.
When all other stock fails this may be tried, merely selecting roots of the
same or allied species. The Shrubby Pseonies are grafted on the large
tuber-looking roots of the herbaceous species. A notch is made in the
side of the swollen tuber-like root, the lower part of the cion being made
to fit this.
With Roses and Clematis splice grafting will answer; with Wistarias
and Bignonias saddle grafting answers well.
In grafting a very sharp and clean knife should be used, to make a
clean cut, so that the surfaces may go closely together. In all cases the
bark of both stock and cion should come evenly together, at least on
one side, and on both if possible.
Budding differs from grafting in that only a single bud is used on the
stock instead of a piece of branch on which there are one or more buds.
As in grafting a near relationship must exist between the plant from
which the bud is selected and the plant which is to receive it. The opera-
tion is a trifle more delicate than that of grafting, but a little practice
will render it an easy task. The best time for the work is after the
plants have completed most of their growth, but before they approach
the dormant stage. All that is necessary to accomplish the first season,
when done during late Summer, is to secure a union. The bud remains
dormant until the following Spring.- There are several methods; that
most commonly practiced consists of making a cross cut through the
bark of the stem of the stock. It should never be greater than for one-
third of the circumference. From the center of the cross cut make a longi-
tudinal cut downward; raise the bark sufficiently in the angles of the
cut parts. The stock is now ready for the reception of the bud. This is
taken usually from a branch smaller in circumference than the stock.
It must necessarily be from the current year's wood, and the bud should
be from the central part of the shoot. Cut the leaf away, but not too
near the bud, and with a sharp, clean knife slice the bud from the shoot.
It is immaterial if a little of the wood be taken with the bark, but the
GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 181
length of bark should be greater below the bud than above. The top
part should be cut off transversely one-third of an inch above the bud
and double that distance below. After the ,bud has been placed in posi-
tion, tie moderately firm with raflia, examining it from time to time to
prevent the raffia from cutting into the bark. Budding is usually per-
formed during the latter part of Summer.
Layering — This operation is on the same priuciple as that of mossing
Rubber plants and Crotons, that is, producing roots on the branches
while yet attached to the parent plant. It is exceedingly simple when
done correctly, but some of the little details left out, or performed the
wrong way, will render the operation unsuccessful. An expert, with
shrubs amenable to this method of increase, will seldom lose a layer.
Briefly stated, the operation consists of bending a branch low enough
so that after it has been notched, tongued or ringed, as the case may
be, the part so treated should be several inches beneath the surface of
the soil, so as to throw out roots, while being at the same time supplied
with nourishment from the parent plant. It is a convenient method of
rooting large pieces of a bush, and should be practiced where small
quantities of certain things are desired, especially those which are diffi-
cult to increase by other methods of propagation. In layering it is
necessary to select branches near the ground, so that they can be bent
down without breaking. To perform the operation by tongueing, with
a sharp knife make an incision in the lower part of the branch at the
place where it is desired to have the roots. The incision should vary in
length and depth with the thickness of the branch; it should never be
deeper than half the thickness of the wood, and should be made toward
the end of the branch so that the tongue will eventually form the base
of the stem after being separated from the parent plant. The layer,
while undergoing the process of rooting, should be held in place with a
peg, which must be strong enough to last several months in the ground.
With few exceptions shrubs and vines are layered during Summer while
the plants are in active growth. In layering, it should be kept in mind
that the soil surrounding the part from which roots are desired should
never be allowed to get dust dry; to prevent this a little sphagnum
moss should be placed around the cut part, in cases where the rooting
is a slow process; and a layer of moss, or other material, on the surface
of the soil will prevent a too rapid evaporation of moisture. But, in
any case, copious waterings during dry weather will be found beneficial.
In the treatment of vines, such plants as Glycine sinensis and Pueraria
Thunbergiana can be layered the entire length of the previous season's
growth, thus giving a plant at every joint. The period at which the
layer may be severed from the parent must be governed by the quantity
of roots made. Better to keep it on the plant than to sever too early.
After a season has elapsed the majority will have rooted, if attention
has been given; but it will not hurt to let them stay for a longer period
attached to the old plant. For furnishing suitable wood for layers, old
plants are sometimes cut down quite close ^to the ground, in order to
produce a quantity of young growth. Plants so treated are termed
"stools." Some of the plants which layer easily are Rhododendrons,
Enkianthus, Gordonias, MagnoUas, especially the Asiatic species and
182 GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
their hybrid variations, Syringas, Forsythias, Ligustrums and the
Hybrid Perpetual Roses.
HYBRDDIZATION.
Much has been accomplished by the union of species, and especially by
the crossing of varieties; but the work is only in its infancy, because
that which has already been done has been, to a large extent, chance
work. We do not possess well-established rules for guidance in the
selection of parents. Much labor has unwittingly been expended
upon impossible subjects, through a desire on the part of the oper-
ator to produce some astonishing result all at once. Even from
plants which readily cross, many seedlings are raised, which, be-
cause of poor judgment used in selection of parents, only result in
discouraging the breeder. Beginners who are inclined to practice
hybridizing should confine their attenion toward improving types
which are already well advanced, possibly using a desirable spe-
cies as a seed parent, but fighting shy of crossing two species. To prose-
cute the actual work inteligently, the operator should have at least a
slight knowledge of the relationship of one species to another as well as
of the genera and natural orders. A knowledge of the different parts of
a flower and the missions they are intended to fulfill are absolutely
necessary. It may be briefly stated that most flowers have male and
female organs in the same flower, such as we find in flowers of the JRose.
Some plants have the male and female organs on separate flowers, but
on the same plant as in Begonia. Others again have the male flowers
on one plant, and the female flowers on another, as in Nepenthes and
Willow. Artificial pollination consists simply in transferring the pollen
from the anther of one flower to the stigma of another. To make sure
that this pollen will have every opportunity to act, and pollen of the
same or other plants, which is not wanted, excluded, the stamens or
male organs of the flower to be pollinated should be removed before the
anthers are in a condition to shed their pollen, and the flower afterward
tied up in a very fine gauze, or paper bag, during the process of fertili-
zation.
POTTING PLANTS,
No rules can be laid down which would apply equally to all kinds of
plants grown in pots, as different kinds of plants require different treat-
ment in this respect. Some require that the soil be rammed quite firmly
about the old ball. These, as a rule, are hard-wooded plants, with fine
roots, such as Heaths and Azaleas. Palms thrive best in a moderately
well-firmed soil. Soft-growing plants are less fastidious in this respect.
Again, there are seasons when some plants should be potted. The hard-
wooded kinds are usually potted in Spring before active growth com-
mences. Ferns are given their annual shift before starting into growth;
many of them, however, will stand shifting several times during a year.
But for all plants it may be stated that the beginning of their resting
season should find the ball of earth well supplied with roots, for if given
a shift when growth is completed water will lodge in the fresh soil, and
this will turn sour and almost certainly cause the plant to become
GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 183
sickly. Plants with fine hair-like roots should only be given small
shifts; rapid growing plants and those with large roots will take larger
shifts. In every case the ball should be moderately moist when potting.
Plants in the younger stages of their existence, whether seedlings or
cuttings, require the soil to be of a finer nature than when older, when
it may be rough and fibrous, and in the case of those which need it
manure of some kind added. In potting ordinary plants in pots above
the size of 4 or 5-inch, the firming of the soil should be done with the
aid of a piece of wood about li/^ inches wide and i^'-inch thick, or larger,
for very large plants. Enough space should always be left at the top of
the pot, so that when the ball of earth is in need of water one applica-
tion will be sufficient to wet it through. In potting cuttings it is the
usual custom to put in soil to one-third the depth of the pot; the cut-
ting is put in place, the remaining space filled up with soil, firmed with
the thumbs, then the bottom of the pot is knocked several times on the
bench. A better method is to have the knocking precede the firming
with the thumbs, for this reason : When the cutting is placed in posi-
tion, the soil added and thumb-firmed, the soil does not get well distri-
buted among the rootlets nearly so well as when the pot is given one or
two gentle knocks before the thumbs are used. For most plants in the
cutting stage the thumbs should be used for evening the surface more
than for firming. Another reason, just as weighty as the last, is that
pressure from the thumb acts unevenly on the roots, pressing down
opposite sections, while the intervening spaces containing the tender
roots are stationary. This must necessarily result in twisting and
wrenching, which dangers are done away with, or at least lessened, by
first firming with the knocking process. Again, all the cuttings of a
batch will not have the same quantity of roots, and therefore they
should get different methods of treatment in potting. Those which
have a satisfactory number of roots may be put in the middle of the
pot, according to the usual custom; but those which have few roots,
and which look as if they would benefit by being left in the cutting bed
for a longer period, will, as a rule, come along all right if placed at the
edge of the pot instead of at the middle. The roots in this position
make progress rapidly, and the plantlets can easily be given a place
in the middle of a pot during their next shift. Cuttings with very fine
roots should always be treated in this way. Many cuttings, when
ready for potting, will be found to have the roots pointing downward
from the base of the cutting instead of radiating from it; these, if of a
delicate and easily bruised nature, can be preserved by taking some soil
in one hand, letting the fingers accompany it into the pot, and before
withdrawing them press the soil against one side of the pot; place the
roots against this and fill up with soil. In course of time practice will
enable the operator to pot cuttings as rapidly by this as by the ordinary
method. In potting cuttings during the Winter months very great care
should be exercised in preventing a check through putting them in soil,
which is of a lower temperature than the sand from which they have
been taken. It should not vary more than two degrees at the time of
potting.
184 GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
Clean Pots— It is the common custom, and a bad one I think, to put
plants in dirty pots with merely the rough of the soil remaining in them
being removed with a stick or cloth before using. This operation takes
more time than washing. A large number of pots submerged in a big
tub of water and allowed to stand for a few days will have the material
adhering to them softened so that with a piece of woolen cloth and a
boy that knows how, a large number can be cleaned in a short time so
that they will be as good as new. There is no doubt that dirty pots
work to the injury of the plants in them. The inside soil adhering to the
pot after use prevents a plant being easily knocked out and the green
on the outside tends to make the pot less porous; besides, a plant looks
better by far in a clean pot than in a dirty one. New pots or thoroughly
dried, clean ones should not be used until they have been dipped in
water immediately before using, as they are apt to absorb too much of
the water meant for the plant after potting. Have divisions in the
potting shed for each size; it saves both time and pots, and when pot-
ting is to be done everything goes along more smoothly when the vari-
ous materials are ready at hand. There is usually more time wasted in
gathering the necessary sizes from here, there and everywhere, wiping
out a few at a time and punching a stick through the aperture at the
bottom than would be spent over the work if it were properly done.
System counts in this as in everything else.
Drainage— Crocking or arranging pieces of broken pots or other mate-
rial over the hole in the bottom of the flower pot for drainage is an
operation to which too little attention is apt to be given. For quick-
growing soft-wooded plants in small pots, or for those which are
intended to remain in the pot only for a short time, there is no necessity
for an elaborate system of drainage. Especially is this the case where
the ball of earth becomes so dry as to require watering at least once a
day. With plants of this nature, in pots above the size of 3-inch, a little
rough material thrown in the bottom will give compensatory results;
but as usually done this work takes more time than if the pots were
supplied in the regular way with potsherds. The rough pieces of the
potting soil are gathered up by hand and put in the pots as potting
proceeds. A better way will be secured as follows: Soil which is to be
used for cuttings, and which is screened, will give excellent material in
the rough pieces which do not pass through the meshes; this should be
saved, mixed with thoroughly rotted cow manure, and put in a box
conveniently situated for future use. This gives splendid material for
drainage, especially for bedding plants, such as Geraniums in 4-inch
pots, Cannas in 5-inch pots, and for young Chrysanthemums. It will
be found that that part of the pot holding this mixture will have a great
attraction for the roots. Where the pots are to serve for growing plants
in for any length of time, potsherds should be used. With Palms, Ferns
and such plants as Pandanus, Dracaenas and Marantas a carefully
crocked pot cuts quite a figure in their healthy root action. For Cala-
diums, Alocasias, Anthuriums and other plants which require an abun-
dant supply of water, careful drainage is an absolute necessity. With
fine-rooted plants, such as Heaths and Azaleas, drainage is equally
important. It will be found good policy to have a supply of the differ-
GENERAL DIRECTIONS, 185
ent sizes of crocks on hand all the time. The crocks should consist of
three sizes, the largest size in pieces from two to three inches across;
the next large enough to go through a No. 1 sieve, and the small size
from one-quarter to one-half-inch in diameter. The quickest way to
procure the different sizes is to breakup the potsherds with a good-sized
hammer, so that the largest pieces are from two to three Inches across;
jjut into a No. 4 or 6 sieve to screen out the dust and smaller particles,
which may be thrown away. Next screen through a half-inch sieve and
these will serve as the smallest-sized crocks. The pieces which the half-
inch sieve retain put into an inch sieve. This will give the second size,
and what is left will answer for pieces to put over the holes in the bot-
toms of the pots. All three sizes should be kept in separate boxes, or
divisions on the potting bench, handy for use. In crocking, spread out
a number of pots on the bench, take a piece of broken pot about twice
the diameter of the hole in the bottom of the pot, place the concave side
of the crock directly over the hole. If the pot is a small one, a few of
the smaller-sized crocks over the larger pieces will be sufficient; but if a
6-inch pot, or larger, it is best to arrange a few large pieces around the
first piece, finishing off with smaller ones. On top of the crocks, to pre-
vent the soil from getting among them, either during the operation of
potting or from being washed down afterward, sphagnum moss is often
used, although this is not the best material for the purpose, as it is apt
to retain moisture to a greater extent than the soil above it. Half
decomposed leaves are preferable.
SOIL.
Loam is the principal soil used for most plants. If containing
much clay it is made lighter and more porous by adding peat, leaf
mould and sand. Each grower of plants should have the loam he uses
analyzed by a professional analyst, in order to be certain of what it
contains, and to apply intelHgently the constituents in which it is defi-
cient for the different classes of plants. Two excellent books on this
subject are: "The 8oil," by Professor King, Wisconsin, and " Lectures
on Some of the Physical Properties of Soil," by Professor R. Warington.
MULCHING.
This consists of covering the surface of the soil with any loose
material, sucJa as well-rotted manure, cocoanut fiber, stable litter,
or half-decayed leaves. It acts in retaining the moisture in the ground
for the benefit of vegetation instead of being lost by rapid evaporation.
The soil, especially after heavy rainstorms, gets a firm crust on the sur-
face which ultimately cracks open, readily parting with the moisture
to a good distance beneath the surface; thus the mulch acts as a layer
between the drying influence of the atmosphere and the surface of the
soil, preventing it from getting hard and keeping it open. A good mulch,
besides preventing evaporation is, to a certain extent, similar in its
action to a loose, silty surface soil, drawing up the moisture from several
feet below the surface. Mulching is also beneficial, because if manure is
186 GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
used in which there is any feeding substance it is washed down to the
roots of the plants by heavy rains. Cultivating acts in a similar man-
ner to mulching, as the soil which is loosened may be said to be a mulch
of loose soil ; but to be of the greatest service this operation should be
performed after every shower of rain. Plants in pots need the surface
stirred occasionally, partly for the same reason that plants in the open
ground are benefited by frequent cultivating. The top layer of soil in
the pots gets into a caked condition; this is indicated at times by the
water standing on the surface longer than usual, and is caused by the
particles of soil being reduced by the action of the water to a muddy
state, forming a kind of puddle through which water takes a long while
to percolate. When potting, a little rough sand scattered on the surface
is an excellent preventive, keeping the whole mass porous and doing
away with the necessity of frequent stirring.
WATERING.
This is the most important work that falls to the lot of the plant
grower. It cannot be learned by reading a paper or a book on the sub-
ject, and the man who wields the watering can, or hose, no matter how
intelligent he may be, will water plants for years after a fashion, and
yet have a great deal to learn. About all that can be said on the sub-
ject is to water a plant when it needs it. The trouble lies in knowing
when it needs it. The operator should first know the plant, all about
it, where it comes from, whether it inhabits a bog or a mountain top,
whether it is rapid or slow growing, its natural periods of growth and
rest, and the same under cultivation. Next he must know the condi-
tion of the roots, the kind of soil it is potted in and when potted.
Among other things he should know will be the chemical composition
of the water, and whether it is suitable for the plants he is watering.
The temperatures of the soil and water during the operation is another
important item. Next he should frequently go over different plants in
different soils, knock one out of its pot here and there an hour or so
after watering, to ascertain whether the ball has been wet an inch or
two below the surface with the remainder dust dry, or if the happy
medium has been struck. In short, it may be said that the successful
cultivator understands how and when to water only after years of
experience. Watering with the hose is often the cause of a good deal of
harm, both to plants on benches, in the open ground, and in pots, owing
to the manner in which water is applied. It is a favorite method with
some to force the water out of a small nozzle to a distanc^ of 20 feet, or
a less distance, with the finger partly over the end of the hose. A better
method than this could not be designed for the packing of the soil,
washing it into cakes by breaking it up into fine particles and filling up
the interstices with thick muddy water; and when the sun shines, if the
ground be not gone over with the cultivator or loosened up in some
other way, the surface soil gets as hard as a brick, and the roots near
the surface are subjected to a temperature far above what is good for
them. To do away with the necessity for this method of watering the
hose should be short in length, and stop cocks more frequently placed.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 187
For outside work lengths of temporary iron piping screwed'into posi-
tion wherever necessary should be provided so as to use the hose low
down among the plants, never allowing the water to be squirted on the
soil. A good plan is to use distributors, one of which can be made in a
few minutes if the necessary material is at hand. Take a piece of zinc,
about a foot long and 5 inches wide, bend the sides for half its length
so as to clasp the end of the hose to hold it in position, and tie with
wire. The other end should overlap the end of the hose by about 6
inches, and be turned up slightly so as to meet the water, distributing
it in such a manner as will enable the soil to absorb it without being
disturbed in the least. This will also prevent the foliage and flowers
from being spattered with muddy water.
188
INDEX.
A
Namb Page
Abella rupestris
(Kock Abella) 147
Abutilon 9
Acacia 9
Acsena micFophylla...lll
Acalypha 50
— hlspida 9
Acanthus Ill
Acer 14,7
— palmatum japoul-
cum 147
Achillea millefolium. ..ill
— mongolica Ill
— ptarmica flore-
pleno.. Ill
— tomeatosa Ill
Achimenes 79
Achyranthes (Iresine) 58
Aciphylla Colensol ....112 ,
— squarrosa 112
Aconitum 112
Acorus calamus varie-
gatus (variegated
Sweet Flag) 112
Adam's Needle(Yucca)175
Adenocalymna como-
sum 67
Adlantum
(Maidenhair) 101
— Ca villus- Veneris 66
— Farleyense 101
— from spores 102
— propagation by
division 102
Adonis 112
.^thionema cordifo-
lium 112
Agapanthus umbel-
latus 9
Agathaea ccBlestis 10
Agave americana 10
Ageratum mexicanum 50
Agrostemma
( Lychnis )coronarIa 113
— flos-Jovis 113
Ajuga 113
Akebia quinata 67
Alabama Snow-
wreath (Nevlusa
alabamensis) 163
AUamandas 10
Alocasia 10
Aloysla cltrlodora 11
Alteruanthera 50
Namb Page
Althsea rosea
(Hollyhock) 113
Althaea, shrubby
(Hibiscus syriacus) 157
Alum Root
(Heuchera) 134
Alyssum (Madwort) .113
— maritlmum
(Kceniga) 50
Amaranthus 50
Amaryllis
(Hippeastrum) ...11, 79
— propagation by off-
sets 80
— raising plants from
seeds 80
Amorpha fruticosa
(Bastard Indigo). ..147
Amorphophallus 80
Ampelopsis Roylei 67
— Veitchii 67
Ananas 11
Andropogon Schaenau-
thus (Lemon Grass) 92
Anemone 80
— alplna 114
— japonica 114
— tuoerous rooted 114
Annual plants 51
Anthericum varlega-
tum 11
Anthurium 11
Antlgonon leptopus.. 68
Antirrhinum
(Snapdragon) 114
Aponogeton dlstach-
yon 12
Aquilegia(Columblne) 115
Arabis (Rock Cress) ..116
Aralia 12
— Chabrleril 12
— (Fatsia) japonica... 12
— japonica
(Angelica Tree) ...147
variegata 13
— papyrifera 116, 131
Araucarlas 13
Arauja (Schubertia)
grandlflora 68
Ardlsia 13
Argemone(Devil'8Fig;116
Aristolochiaelegans.. 68
— slpho 68
— Sturtevantli 68
Armeria (Sea Pink)... 117
1»A.MB Pagb
Arundo donax 92
variegata 92
Asclepias Curassa-
vica 51
— tuberosa
(Pleurisy Root). ..117
Asparagus 14
— plumosus 14
nanus 69
as a pot plant 69
for short sprays 69
raising from
seed 69
— Sprengerii 14
— tenuissimus 14, 70
Asperula adorata
(Sweet Woodruff) ..117
Aspidistra 14
— elatlor 66
variegata 66
— punctata 66
Aspldlum capense 103
Asplenlum 15, 103
Aster
(Michaelmas Daisy )117
Asters, Chinese (Cal-
llstephus chinensls) 51
Astilbe (Spiraea)
japonica 118
Aubrletia deltoidea...ll8
Aucuba japonica 148
Azalea 15, 148
— newly Imported
plants 15
— removing 8lde
growths 15
— treatment during
summer 15
B
Balsams 52
— Z anzibar (Im-
patlensSultanl) 52
Bamboo 92
Bambusa 92
Banana (Musa) 51
— M. ensete 51
superba 52
Baptlsia perfollata....ll8
Barberry
(Berberls Thunbergl)149
Bay tree
(Laurus nobllls) 161
Begonia 15,53
—bedding varieties of 53
INDEX.
189
Naux Paos
Begonia coralllna..i6, 53
— Evanelana 118
— Gloire de Lorraine.. 16
— Rex, leaf cuttings of 17
— sowing seed 16
— tuberous- rooted
section 16
—winter bloomers 16
Bellflower
(Campanula) 119
—Chinese 141
Bellis perennis 53
Berberls Thunbergl
(Barberry) 149
— vulgaris 149
Blgnonla venusta 70
Bird Cherry
(Prunus padus) 165
Bladder Nut
(Staphylea) 173
Bleeding Heart 130
Blood Root (Sanguin-
arla canadensis) 141
Bocconia cordata
(Plume Poppy) 119
Bougalnvlllea 17
— laterltla 70
— spectabilis 70
Bouncing Bet (Sapo-
narla officinalis) 142
Boussingaultia basel-
lolde8(MadeIraVlue) 70
Bouvardla 18
BrowalUa 18
— elata 53
— speclosa 53
Brunfelsla 18
Bryonia laclnlosa 70
Bulbous plants 80
Bulbs, forcing 84
— outdoor 85
— spring 85
Burning Bush 130
c
Cactus 18
Caladlum 18
— argyrltes 81
— fancy -lea ved 81
— odoratum (Colo-
casia odorata) .... 82
— preparations for lift-
ing tubers 82
— propagation 82
— starting tubers 81
—storing " 82
Calathea 19
— propagation 19
Calceolaria 19
Calico Bush
(Kalmla latlfolla) ..160
Calla 90
Calllcarpa 150
Callirhoe 119
Calllstemon speclosus 20
Calycanthus (Sweet-
Scented Shrub) 150
— praecox 151
Nam* Pagk
Camellia 20
Campanula 119
Candytuft (Iberis) 134
Cannas 53
— for winter blooming 20
— raising from seed.... 54
— storing 54
— varieties 53
with ornamental
foliage 54
Carludovica 20
Carnation (Dianthus
Caryophyllus) 126
—cuttings 127
material for 127
—disbudding 129
—feeding 129
— lifting and plant-
ing 128
— Marguerite 130
—planting In the field. 128
— propagating house
and benches 127
— sand 127
-soil 129
—supports 129
— sj^rlnging 129
— temperature 129
— to follow chrysan-
themums 130
— treatment during
rooting 128
—varieties 130
—ventilation 129
Caryopteris masta-
canthus 150
Castor Bean(RicInu8) 63
Catananche cfBrulea ..120
Catchfly (Silene) 143
Cedar, Japan 153
Celandine Double 121
Centaurea. 120
Centradenia 21
Centropogon 21
Cerastium Bieber-
eteinll 121
Cerasus laurocera8U8.150
Cercis japonica (Red
Bud, Judas Tree) ...151
Cestrum corymbosum 21
— Newelll 21
Chaenostoma hispida. 54
Chaste Tree
(Vltex agnu8-ca8tU8)174
Cheiranthus Chelrl
(Wallflower) 121
Chelidonium majus
flore-pleno
(Double Celandine). 121
Chlmonanthus
ft-agrans 151
Chionanthus virginica
(Fringe Tree) 151
Childsla (Hidalgoa)
Wercklei 70
Christmas Rose
(Helleborus) 133
Chrysanthemums 121
Namk Paqk
Chrysanthemum coc-
clneum 125
— insects 124
— late-flowering
plants 122
— leucanthemum 125
— parthenif olium 125
— propagating for
general crop 122
— raising new varie-
ties 124
— selecting the bud ....122
—soil 123
— specimen plants 123
— stock plants 121
— types or races 124
— ullglnosum 125
— varieties 124
— ventilation 123
Clbotium (Dicksonia)
Schiedel 103
Cineraria 21
— candldlsslma 54
— marltima 54
Cinquefoil, shrubby
( Potentillafrutico8a)165
Clssus discolor 71
Clstus vIUosus 151
Citrus trifollata 151
Clematis 71, 125
— grafting large-
flowered varieties 71
— paniculata 71
Clerodendron speclo-
8um 72
— Thomsonse 72
— trichotonum 152
Clltorla ternatea 72
Cobaea scandens 72
Codifeum
(Crotons) 22, 23, 54
Columbine(Aquilegia;115
Coneflower
(Rudbeckia) 141
Convallarla majalls... 83
Coleus 55
Convolvulus 21
Cordyllnes 22, 66
— ornamental leaved
kinds 22
Coreopsis 125
Cornflower
(Centaurea) 120
Cornus florida (Flow-
ering Dogwood) 152
Cosmos bipinnatus.... 55
— supports for 55
Cotoneaster mlcro-
phylla 152
Cotton Lavender
(Santolina incana).142
Cotyledon
(Echeverla) 27, 56
Cowslip, American.... 131
—Virginian 137
Crape Myrtle (Lager-
stroemia Indica) 161
Crat£egus(Hawthorn)152
190
INDEX,
Namb Pagk
Crataegus pyracan-
tha. 153
Crinum 83
— Powellii 83
Croton
(Codiseum) 22, 23, 54
Crotons, ringing.... 23, 24
Cryptomeria japonica
(Japan Cedar) 153
Cuphea Llavee 56
— platycentra 56.
Curculigo 24
Cycas 24
Cyclamen 25
Cydonia japonica
< Japan Quince) 153
— Maulei 154
Cyperus alternif ollus . 92
CyrtomiumCaspidlum)
falcatum 103
Cytisus 26
D
Dactylis glomerata
variegata 93
Dahlias 56
— propagation 56
—soil 57
— varieties 56
Daisy, Michaelmas.... 117
—Ox eye 125
—Paris 43
Dalechampia Roez-
liana 26
Daphne eneorum 154
Davallia 103
— Mariesii 103
— Mooreana 103
Delphinium
(Larkspur) 125
Desmodium gyrans... 26
Deutzia scabra 154
Dianthus (Carnation
Pinlc) 126
— Caryophyllus 126
Dicentra eximia 130
— spectabilis
(Bleeding Heart).130
Dlchorisandra thyrsi-
flora 27
Dlcksonia antarctica.104
— Barometz 104
Dictamnus fraxinella
(Burning Bush) 130
Dieffenbathias 27
Dit^r villa (Weigelia)...155
Digitalis purpurea
(Fox Glove,
Witches' Thimbles) 130
Dodecatheon
(American Cow8lip)131
Dogwood, Flovrering
(Cornus florida) 152
Doronicum
(Leopard's Bane). ..131
DracEena 26
— fragrans 26
Namb Page
Dracaena Godseffi-
ana 26
— Goldieana 26
— Lindenii 26
— Massangeana 26
— Sanderiana 26
Drosera binata 27
E
Echeverla (Cotyle-
don) gibbiflora
raetallica 27
Edelweiss (Leontopo-
dium alpinum) 136
Eichornea
(Water Hyacinth).. 28
— azurea 28
Elymus glaucus 93
Empress Tree (Pau-
lo wnia Imperlalls) ..164
Eplphyllums 28
Eranthemum pulchel-
lum 29
Erlanthus ravennse... 93
Erica (Heath) 155
Ericas 29
Erpetion (Viola)
reniforme. 131
Erythrinas 29, 57
— propagation 29
Eucharis amazonica.. 84
Eulalia (Miscanthus). 93
Euonymus
(Spindle Tree) 155
— radlcans variegata. 156
Eupatorium prooum. 29
EuphorbiatPoinsettia)
pulcherrlma 30
— elegans 31
Eurya latif olia
variegata 31
Exacum affine 31
Exochorda grandi-
flora (Pearl Bush). .156
F
Farfuglum gran de. 66, 131
Fatsia (Aralia) papy-
rifera (Rice Paper
Plant) 116, 131
Ferns 101
— cool house, summer
quarters for 108
— Insect enemies of 110
—shading 108
—soil for 108
—spores, gathering
and sowing 109
preparing soil for 109
— viviparous 109
Ferula communis 132
Festuca glauca 93
Ficus elastica 31, 57
— cuttings 32
— house-grown plants 32
— indoors, for stock
plants 32
NAmb PaqB
Ficus mossing, out-
of-doors 31
— slow-rooting species 32
Forcing bulbs 84
Forget-me-not
(Myosotis) 137
Forsythia 156
Four O'clock 59
Fragaria indica
(Rock Strawberry) 132
Freesias 85
Fringe Tree (Chion-
anthus vlrginica) ...151
Fuchsia 32
Funkia
(Plalntaln Lily) 132
— ovata 132
— Sieboldiana 132
— sub-cordata 132
Furcraea 34
Furze(Ulex europa'U8)174
G
Galllardia aristata....l32
Galax aphylla 132
Gardenias 34
Gazanias 57
Gentiana (Gentian). ..133
Geranium 57
— sanguineum 133
Gladiolus 86
Gloriosa Plantii
superba 86
Gloxinias 34
— diseases of 35
—soil for 35
Goat's Beard(Spiraea)143
Golden Feather 125
Gordonia
(Loblollv Bay) 156
Gorse (Whin, Furze,
Ulex europaeus) 174
Grevillea robusta 35
Guelder Rose (Vibur-
num, Snowball) 174
Gynerium argenteum
(Pampas Grass) 93
Gypsophila 133
H
Haemanthus 86
Halesia
(Snowdrop Tree) ...156
Hamelia patens. 35
Hawthorn
(Crataegus) 152
Heath (Erica) 155
Hedera helix
(English Ivy) 72
Hedychium 35
Heeriaalba 36
— rosea 36
Helianthus
(Sunflower) 133
Heliotrope 57
Helleborus
(Christmas Rose) ...133
INDEX.
191
Namx Paos
Hemerocallis
(Day Lily) 133
Hepatica triloba 134
Heuchera(Alum Root)134
Hibiscus 36
— eyriacus
(Shrubby Alth8ea).157
Hippeastrum
('Amaryllis) 79
Holly (Ilex) 158
Hollyhock 113
Honeysuckle (Bush)
Lonlcera.. 162
House Leek
( Semper vivum) 143
Horse Chestnut,
smooth fruited
(Pavia macro-
stachya) 164
Hoya carnosa 73
Humulus japonicus
variegatus 73
Hunnemannia fuma-
rijefolia 57
Hyacinths, Roman.... 84
— forcing 84
— in pans 85
Hydrangeas for pots. 36
— forcing 36
— Hortensls 157
— paniculata grandi-
flora 158
— quercifolia 157
Hypericum
(St. John's Wort) ..158
Iberis (Candytuft) 134
Ilex (Holly) 158
— cornuta 159
Imantophyllum 37
Impatiens Sultani
(Zanzibar Balsam). 52
Inga pulcherrima 37
Ipomsea 73
— Briggsli 73
— grandiflora
(Moonflower) 74
— tubiculata 66
Iresine (Achyranthes) 58
Iris 86, 135
— propagation 135
Isotoma longiflora ... 58
Itea virginica 159
Ivy English 72
— German 65
Ixoras 37
J
Jasminum grandi-
florum 37
— nudiflorum
(Chinese naked-
flowered Jasmine)160
Judas tree (Cercis
japonica) 151
Juniperus (Juniper). 160
Namb Paqk
Justicia (Schaueria)
calytricha 37
— (Jacobinia) carnea. 37
rosea 37
K
Kadsurajaponica 74
Kalmia latifolia
(Calico Bush) 160
Kerria japonica 160
— white, (Rhodoty-
pos kerrioides) ...166
Kniphofia aloides 136
Koelreuteria panicu-
lata 161
L
Lachenalias 86
Lagerstroemia indica
(Crape Myrtle) 161
Lantana 58
Lapageria alba 74
— rosea 74
Larkspur
(Delphinium) 125
Lastrea opaca 66
— prolifica 66
Lathyrus latifolius
albus 74
Laurus nobilis
(Bay Tree) 161
Leontopodium alpi-
num (Edelweiss) ....136
Lespedeza bicolor 136
Liboniapenrhosiensis 37
Ligustrum (Privet). ..161
Lilac (Syringa) 173
Lilium 87
— auratum 89
— Harrisli 89
— longiflorum 89
— preparing bulbs for
potting 88
— speciosum 88
Lily, Day 133
Lily of the Valley 83
— plaintain (Funkia).132
Limnocharis Hum-
boldtii 96
Lindelofia spectabilisl36
Lobelia 136
— erinus 58
Loblolly Bay
(Gordoniai 156
Lomaria gibba 104
Lonicera
(Bush Honeysuckle)162
— sempervireus
(Woodbine) 75
Lopezia racemosa
(Mosquito Plant) ... 37
Lychnis 136
— (Agrostemma) coro-
naria 113
Lycopods 101
Lysimachia
(Loosestrife) 137
Name Paok
Lysimachia nummu-
laria (Moneywort).. 66
Lythrum salicaria
(Purple Loo8e8trife)137
M
Madeira Vine 70
Magnolia 162
Mahernia glabrata.... 38
Malvaviscus arboreus 38
— mollis 38
Manettia bicolor 76
— cordifolia 75
Maples (Japanese) ....147
Maranta 38
Marvel of Peru 59
Meadow 8weet
(Spiraea) 143
Medinilla 38
Mertensia virginica
(Virginian Cowslip) 137
Mesembryanthemum. 58
Metrosideros robusta 38
— semperflorens 38
Microlepia (Davallia)
hirta cristata 104
Mignonette (Reseda). 58
— for early flowering. 59
Mimulus moschatus.. 59
Mint, Horse,
(Monarda) 137
Mirabills jalapa 59
Mock Orange
(Philadelphus) 165
Monarda
(Horse Mint) 137
Monstera deliciosa.... 38
Morina longifolia 137
Mullein (Verbascum).145
Musa coccinea 38
Mussfenda frondosa.. 38
— luteola 38
Myosotis
(Forget-me-not) 137
N
Narcissus 84
— poeticus 89
Nelumbium 96
— insect enemies 97
—raising plants from
seed 96
— starting dormant
tubers 96
Nepenthes 39
Nephrolepis 105
— acuta 105
— cordifolia 104
pectinata 105
— davallioides 105
furcans 104
— exaltata 104
bostoniensis 104
cristata 104
— washingtoniensis . . .104
pendula 104
Nerium (Oleander)..., 39
192
INDEX.
Nams Pagk
Neviusa alabamensls
(Alabama Snow
Wreath) 163
Nierembergia frutes-
cens..; 59
— gracilis 59
Nigella damascena.... 59
Niphobolus lingua
corymbifera 66
Nymphsea 97
— hardy sorts 98
raising from
seeds 99
starting 98
— night-blooming
section 97
—soil for 98
— starting tubers into
growth 98
— summer quarters... 98
—tender kinds. The... 97
wintering 98
o
Ochna multlflora 39
CEnothera
(Evening PrImroseUSS
Ononis (Resth arrow) 138
Onosma stellulatum
var. tauricum 138
Onychium 105
Ophiopogon 138
Orchids 40
— Calanthe 40
— Cattleyas 40
— Coelogynecristata.. 40
— Cypripedium 41
— Dendrobium nobile. 41
— Laelia anceps 41
— Odontoglossum 41
— Oncidlum varicosum 41
var. Rogersii... 41
— potting material.... 41
Or. bus (Lathyrus)
vern u8(Bitter Vetch)138
Osmanthus 163
Othonna crasslfolia
(Little Picliles) 66
Ouvirandra fenes-
tralis 100
Oxalis 59,89
P
Pachysandra 138
Peederia foetida 76
Pseonia 139
— Moutan
(Shrubby Paeonia) .163
Palms 41
— Areca (Chrysalido-
carpus) lutescens.. 42
— Caryota sobolifera . 42
— (Jeroxylon andicola 42
— Cocosplumosa 42
Weddellana 42
— Corypha australis.. 42
Namb Page
Palms, Kentia (Ho-
wea) Belmoreana... 42
Forsteriana.... 42
— Lataniaborbonica. 42
— Licuala grandis 42
— Livistona chinensis 42
Jenkensli 42
rotundifolia 42
— Phoenix rupicola 42
— Rhapis flabelli-
formis 42
— Seaforthiaelegans.. 42
— Stevensonia grandi-
folia 42
Pandanus 60
— utilis 43
— Veitchii 43
Panicum variegatum 94
Pansies (Viola) 60
— to flower in frames. 60
—tufted 61
Papaver (Poppy) 139
— nudicaule 139
Papyrus antiquorum 94
Paris Daisies 43
Passiflora coerulea 76
— incarnata 76
Paullinia thalictri-
folia 43
Paulownia imperialis
(Empress Tree) 164
Pavia macrostachya
(Smooth-fruited
Horse Chestnut) 164
Peach
(Persica vulgaris) ...164
Pearl Bush
(Exochorda grandi-
flora) 155
Pelargonium 61
—fancy 62
— ivy-leaved section... 62
Pennisetum longi-
stylum 94
Pentas carnea 62
Pentstemon 140
Peperomias 43
Pereskias 43
Peristrophe angusti-
folia 62
Persica vulgaris
(Peach) 164
Periwinkle (Vinca) 145
Petrea volubllis 76
Petunias 62
Philadelphus
(Mock Orange, Sy-
ringa) 165
Phlox Drummondii... 62
— subulata
(Moss Pink) 140
Phormium tenax 43
Phygelius capensis ...140
Phyllagathis rotundi-
folia 44
Phyllanthus atropur-
pureus 44
— nivosus 44
Naxs Pagk
Phyllotaenlum Lln-
denii 44
PhysaUs Franchetti..l40
Pitcher Plant
(Sarracenia) 142
Platycerium alcicornelOS
— grande 105
Platycodon grandi-
florum
(Chinese Bellflower)141
Plumbago capensis... 63
Plume Poppy 119
Plumerias.The 45
Polianthes tuberosa
(Tuberose) 89
Polypodium 106
— (Phlebodium)
aureum 106
— conjugatum 106
— (Goniophlebium)
8ub-auriculatum..l06
— Heracleum 106
— (Niphobolus)lingua.l06
— Phymatodes 106
— rigidulum 106
Pomegranate, Dwarf
(Punica granatum
nana) 165
Poppy (Papaver) 139
Potentilla fruticosa
(Shrubby Cinquef oil)165
Primrose 141
—Evening 138
Primula 45, 141
— ^fertilizing flowers... 46
— floribunda 45
— Forbesii 45
— Isabellina 45
— obconica 45
— sinensis 45
Privet (Ligu8trum)...161
Prunus padus
(Bird Cherry) 165
Pteris 107
— creticaalbo-lineata 107
— inequallfolia 107
— quadriaurita 107
— serrulata 66
— tremula 107
— Walllchii 107
Pueraria Thunber-
giana 76
Punica granatum
nana (Dwarf Pome-
granate) 165
Pyrethrum roseum ...125
Pyrus (Crab Apple).. ..165
Q
Quince, Japan
(Cydonia japonica);.153
R
Rabbit Berry (Shep-
herdia argentea) 173
Reinwardtia (Linum)
trigynum 46
INDEX.
193
Name Page
Reinwardtia tetragy-
num 46
Rhaphiolepis ovata...l66
Rhododendron 166
Khodotypos ker
rioides 166
Rhus cotinui*
(Smoke Tree) 166
Richardia sethiopica
(Calla) 90
Ricinus (Castor Bean) 63
Robina hispida 167
Rochea (Crassula)
faleata 46
Rohdea japonica 66
Rosa (Rose) 167
— cultivation under
glass 170
— for outdoor bloom .169
— forcing 168
— propagation 168
by grafting 171
by seeds 168
— summer 171
— teas and hybrid
teas 169
Rudbeckia (Cone-
flower) 141
Ruellia macrantha.... 47
Russelias 47
Saccharura officina-
rum violaceum 95
St. John's Wort
(Hypericum) 158
Saintpaulia ionantha 47
Salvia leucantha 47
— patens 47
— pratensis 141
— splendens 47, 63
Bonfire 47
Sanchezia nobilis 63
Sanguinaria canaden-
sis (Blood Root) 141
Santolina incana..63, 142
Saponaria officinalis
(Bouncing Bet) 142
Sarracenia
(Pitcher Plant) 142
Saxifraga sarmentosa
(Aaron's Bf*ard).65, 142
Scutellaria (Skull.cap)142
Sea Pink (A.rmeria)...117
Sedum (Stonecrop)....142
Selagiaella 107
— csesia arborea 108
— Emmeliana 107
— erythropus 108
— Kraussiana 107
— lepidophylla 108
— Martensii 108
— viticulosa 108
Sempervivum
(House Leek) 143
Senecio scandens
(German Ivy) 65, 77
Namk • Pagb
Shepherdia argentea
(Rabbit Berry) 173
Silene (Catchfly) 143
Smilax (Myrsiphyllum
aspa.ragoides) 77
Smoke Tree
(Rhus cotinus) 166
Snapdragon 114
Snowball (Viburnum,
Guelder Rosa) 174
Snowberry (Symphori-
carpus racemosus)..173
Snowdrop Tree
(Hale-.ia> 156
Solanum Wendlandii. 77
Sphserogyne latifolia. 48
Spindle Tree
(Euonymus) 155
Spiraea (Meadow
Sweet, Goat's Beard)143
— (astilbe) japonica.. ..118
— shrubby 173
Stachys lanata
( Hedge Nettle) 144
—shrubby 173
Staphylea
(Bladder Nut) 173
Statice(Sea Lavender)144
Stephanophysum
(Ruellia) longifiorum 49
Stephanotis flori-
bunda 48
Stevias 48
Stignaphyllon cilia-
turn (Butterfiy Vine) 77
Stipa pennata
(Feather Grass"* 95
Stonecrop (Sedum). ...142
Strawberry, Rock
(Fragaria indica)....132
Streptocarpus hybrids 48
Strobilanthes aniso-
phylius 49
— Dyerianus 63
— isophyllus 49
Sunflower
(Helianthus) 133
Swainsona 63
Sweet Peas 74
— supports for 74
Symphoricarpus rac'^-
mosus (Snowberry) 173
Synadenlum Grantii.. 49
Syringa (Lilac) 173
Syringa(Philadelphus,
Mock Orange) 165
Tagetes 63
Tamarix 174
Tanacetum vulgare
(Tansy) 144
Tecoma grandiflora.. 77
Thunbergia 78
Thymus (Thyme) 144
Tiarella cordifolia
(False Mitrewort)...144
Namk Pagb
Tinnea sethlopica 49
Torenia Fournieri 64
Tricyrtis hirta
(Japanese Toad-
Lily) 144
Tropaeolum
(Indian Cress) 64
Toxicophlsea specta-
bilis 49
Trillium 90
Tritoma uvaria 136
Tuberose 89
Tulips 84
— forcing 84
— outdoor bulbs 85
U
Ulex europfeus
(Whin,Gorse, Furze)174
Uniola latifolia 95
Valloradia (Plum-
bago) plumbagin-
oides 144
Vallota purpurea 90
propagation 90
Yerbascum (Mullein).. 145
Verbenas 64
— venosa 64
Veronica (Speed well), .145
Viburnum (Snowball,
Guelder Rose) 174
Victoria Regia, The.. .100
Vinca (Periwinkle) 145
— major var. elegan-
tissima 66
— rosea 64
Violas (Violets) 145
— hardy 146
— leaf spot on 146
Vitex agnus-castus
(Chaste Tree) 174
Vitis heterophylla
variegata 78
w
Wallflower 121
Water Lilies, tender,
wintering 98
Water Plants,
labels for 100
Welgelia (Diervilla)....155
Wistaria chinensis 78
Xanthoceras eorbi-
folia 175
Yucca
(Adam's Needle) 175
z
Zinnias 64
n. C. State Collete
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